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Grardening for Pleasure, 
 
 A GUIDE TO THE AMATEUR IN THE 
 
 Fruit, Vegetable, and Flower Garden, 
 
 WITH FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE 
 
 Greenhouse, Conservatory, and Window-Garden. 
 
 BY 
 
 peter HENDERSON, 
 
 AUTHOB OP "QAEDENING FOB PROFIT," AND "PEACTIOAL PLOBICDLTURB, 
 JEESET OITT HEIGHTS, N. J. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 A 
 
 o1 
 
 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 
 
 245 BROADWAY. 
 
 / V 
 

 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by the 
 
 ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
Zl? 
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 Introduction 7 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 SoUand Location 9 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 Drainage 10 
 
 CHAPTER m. 
 Preparation of the Gronnd 13 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Walks 14 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Manures 16 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 How to Use Concentrated Fertilizers 18 
 
 CHAPTER Vn. 
 Special Fertilizers for Particular Plants 21 
 
 CHAPTER Vm. 
 The Lawn 22 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 Design for Garden 25 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Planting of Lawns and Flower-Beds 30 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Fall, or Holland Bulbs ... 36 
 
 CHAPTER Xn. 
 Propagation of Plants hy Seeds 39 
 
 CHAPTER Xm. 
 Propagation of Plants by Cuttings 42 
 
 CHAPTER XrV. * 
 
 Propagating by Layering 46 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 About Grafting and Budding 47 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 How Grafting and Budding are Done 51 
 
 (3) 
 
IV GAEDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 Treatment of Tropical Bulbs, Seeds, etc 57 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 The Potting of Plants 60 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Winter Flowering Plants 62 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Unhealthy Plants— The Remedy 67 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 Plants Suited for Summer Decoration 69 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Hanging Baskets "^2 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Window Gardening '5^5 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Parlor Gardening, or the Cultivation of Plants in Rooms 77 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 Wardian Cases, Ferneries, Jardinieres 82 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 Winter-Forcing the Lily of the Valley 84 
 
 CHAPTER XXVn. 
 Greenhouses Attached to Dwellings. 87 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 A Detached Greenhouse or Grapery 90 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 Heating by Hot Water 95 
 
 CHAPTER XXX, 
 Greenhouse or Pits Without Artificial Heat 98 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 Combined Cellar and Greenhouse 99 
 
 CHAPTER XXXn. 
 Hot-Beds 102 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIIL 
 Shruhs, Climbers, and Trees 104 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 Hardy Herbaceous Perennials 107 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 Annual Flowering Plants 112 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 Flowers which will Grow in the Shade 114 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV II. 
 Insects 115 
 
COIS^TEKTS. V 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVm. 
 Mildew 120 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 Frozen Plants 121 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 Mulching 122 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 Are Plants in Rooms Injurious to Healtli 124 
 
 CHAPTER XLn. 
 Shading .125 
 
 CHAPTER XLin. 
 The Law of Colors in Flowers 128 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 Pruning I33 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 Hardy Grapes 138 
 
 CHAPTER XLVL 
 Cold Grapery 144 
 
 CHAPTER XL VII. 
 The Hot-House or Forcing Grapery 150 
 
 CHAPTER XLVIII. 
 The Strawberry 153 
 
 CHAPTER XLIX. 
 Cottage-Gardening— A Digression 175 
 
 CHAPTER L. 
 The Vegetable Garden 177 
 
 CHAPTER LI. 
 
 Garden Implements . . 223 
 
 Monthly Calendar of Operations 234 
 
INTKODUCTION. 
 
 I have endeavored in writing '' Gardening for Pleasure," 
 to divest it, as far as I was competent to do so, of the 
 technical terms and phrases which professional gar- 
 deners use in writing or talking on matters relating to 
 horticulture ; and to use the plainest language at my 
 command in describing the simplest methods of culture. 
 Whether I haye succeeded in making the subject as clear 
 as I have desired to do, those who read the work must 
 decide. 
 
 My aim in writing the book was to make it such as 
 would be useful to the occupant of a city lot, or to the 
 possessor of a few window plants, as well as to the owner 
 of a country residence that is fully appointed in all mat- 
 ters relating to the cultivation of flowers, fruits, and 
 vegetables. The necessity for such a book has been made 
 evident to me by the inquiries from hundreds of ama- 
 teurs in gardening ; inquiries to many of which neither 
 of my previous works, (''Gardening for Profit," or 
 ''Practical Floriculture,") furnished proper replies ; the 
 one being written mainly for information of the vegetable 
 market gardener, and the other for the commercial florist. 
 
 PETER HENDERSON. 
 
 Jbkset City, N. J., Oct., 1875. 
 
 i.1) 
 
Grardening for Pleasure. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 SOIL AND LOCATION. 
 
 It is rare in determining the site for a residence, that 
 the soil is taken into consideration, and in consequence, 
 we sometimes find that the garden surrounding the 
 house presents a barren appearance, that nothing can 
 remedy short of the placing a foot of good soil over the 
 whole surface. This condition is not so often due 
 to the natural poverty of the soil, as caused by grading 
 off the surface soil, or by filling up to the desired grade 
 with the material thrown out in excayating the cellars, 
 or other subsoil, clay, or gravelly material, and placing 
 these over the soil intended for the garden. This is 
 often done for the convenience of contractors, to the 
 great injury of the proprietor, without either being 
 aware of the bad results. As a good soil will tend more 
 than all else to give satisfactory results in garden opera- 
 tions, it is all important to secure it. When discretion 
 can be used in deciding on a location, one should be 
 chosen that has naturally a suitable soil, rather than to 
 attempt to make it so by carting a foot of good soil over 
 the bad, which would be found not only very expensive, 
 but in many situations, next to impracticable. I have 
 (9) 
 
10 GARDEIfING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 before said, in some of my writings on this subject, that 
 the soil best suited for all garden purposes, is what is 
 known as '^ sandy loam," not less than ten inches deep, 
 overlying a subsoil of sand or gravel. Such a soil 
 rarely requires drainage, is easier worked, and gives bet- 
 ter results than that known as '' clayey loam," which 
 overlays a putty-like subsoil of blue or yellow clay, 
 which must be drained thoroughly before a seed is sown 
 or plant set out, or there will be no satisfactory reward 
 for the labor. The location, if choice can be made, 
 should be such as will allow the garden to slope gently, 
 (say one foot in a hundred), to the south or south-east, 
 and if protected by hills or timber to the north-west, 
 so much the better. If not protected naturally, a hedge 
 of Hemlock Spruce, or Norway Firs, planted on the 
 northern and western side of the site intended for the 
 garden, would be of great advantage. These evergreens 
 can be bought from 2 to 3 feet high, at from $15 to $25 
 per 100 ; and should be planted according to size, from 2 
 to 3 feet apart, making a cheap and ever improving screen 
 or fence, which may be trimmed to any required hight 
 or thickness. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 DRAINAGE. 
 
 As drainage will be in many instances indispensable to 
 success, I will briefly state a few of the simplest methods 
 that may be adopted, premising that it is utterly useless 
 to expect to cultivate any soil satisfactorily that does 
 not freely and rapidly carry off the surface water. An 
 expert in soils can determine almost to a certainty by 
 digging down two or three feet, whether or not a soil 
 
DRAINAGE. 
 
 11 
 
 requires drainage, but the safest guide for the inexperi- 
 enced is to judge by the growing crops in his neighbor- 
 hood. If on a similar soil good crops of corn, pota- 
 toes, or hay, are found on undrain- 
 ed soil, then it is certain there is 
 no necessity to drain, for no matter 
 how cultivated, or how heavily ma- 
 nured land is, there can never be a 
 good crop raised in any season, if 
 the soil is water-logged. If the 
 place to be drained is of large ex- 
 tent, and the ground nearly level, 
 it will always be safer to call in the 
 services of an engineer to give the 
 proper levels and indicate the 
 necessary fall, which should never ^^" 
 be less than half a foot in the hundred, and if more can be 
 had, so much the better. In heavy, clayey soils, we 
 make our lateral drains three feet deep and fifteen feet 
 apart, where there is less clay in the subsoil, we make 
 them from twenty to thirty feet apart, and four feet 
 deep. If stones are plenty on the ground, they may be 
 profitably used in filling up the excavated ditch to half 
 its depth, as shown in figure 1, and which is known as a 
 rubble drain, using the larger stones at the bottom, and 
 
 -BUBBLE DKAIX. 
 
 Fig. 2. —HORSE-SHOE DBAIN-TILE. 
 
 smaller at top, and covering over with inverted sods, to 
 xeep the soil from being washed in among the stones, 
 and thus choking up the drain. But when they can be 
 obtained at reasonable price, the best and most durable 
 draining is that done by tiles. It makes but Kttle dif- 
 ference whether the tile used is the round with collars. 
 
12 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 or the horse-shoe ; we rather prefer the latter, particu- 
 larly if the bottom of the drain is '' spongy ; " we then 
 use a board for the bottom of the drain, as shown in fig- 
 ure 2. This board is a common one of hemlock or 
 spruce, cut in four pieces ; it is ripped through the mid- 
 dle, and then these parts split in two, making boards 
 of five inches wide by half an inch in thickness, thus 
 making the common hemlock board stretch out to a 
 length of fifty feet. It is often a very troublesome mat- 
 ter to get the few drain tiles necessary to drain a small 
 garden, and in such cases an excellent and cheap substi- 
 tute can be had by using one of boards. Take ordinary 
 rough boards, pine, hemlock, or spruce, and cut them into 
 widths of three or four inches, nail them together so as to 
 
 Fig. 3. — TRIANGULAR BOARD DRAIN. 
 
 form a triangular pipe, as represented in figure 3, taking 
 care to '' break the joints " in putting the lengths to- 
 gether ; care must be taken that the boards are not" 
 nailed together too closely, else they might swell so as to 
 prevent the water passing into the drain to be carried 
 off. These drains are usually set with a flat side down, 
 but they will keep clear better, if put with a point down, 
 though it is more trouble to lay them. Drains made in 
 this way will last much longer than might be supposed. 
 Last season I came across some wooden drains that I 
 had put down over twenty years before, and they seemed 
 sound enough to last twenty years longer. 
 
PBEPARATIOK OF THE GROUND. 13 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PREPAEATION OF THE GROUND 
 
 After draining, (if draining is necessary), comes the 
 preparation of the soil. Presuming that the ground 
 where the new garden is to be made is an open space, 
 clear of trees or other obstructions, there is no cultiva- 
 tion so cheap and yet so thorough, as plowing and har- 
 rowing. To do this properly, the ordinary plow should 
 be followed by the subsoil plow, stirring the subsoil up 
 about fifteen inches deep, so that the water will pass 
 through to the drains, natural or artificial, freely. After 
 the plow and subsoiler, follows the harrow, which should 
 be weighted, so that the teeth sink six inches into the 
 soil, in order to completely pulverize it. In Europe, it 
 would be considered sacrilege to use a plow or harrow in 
 the preparation of a private garden, and most of old- 
 country gardeners among us will stand aghast at such ad- 
 vice, but I have been through all parts of the work, and 
 am well satisfied, from no limited practice, that plowing 
 and harrowing will not only do the work at one-fourth 
 of the cost, but in a better manner than the ordinary 
 digging or trenching with the spade. Let me here cau- 
 tion that great care be taken never to plow, dig, harrow, 
 rake, or hoe ground when wet ; if work must be done, 
 pull out weeds, or set plants, if you will, but never, under 
 any circumstances, stir the soil in preparation for a crop 
 until it is dry enough not to clog. If stirred while wet, 
 the particles stick together, and the crop is not only in- 
 jured for the season, but in some soils the bad effects 
 show for years. 
 
14 GAEDEXI^'G FOE PLEASURE, 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 WALKS. 
 
 It is no unusual thing to see the owner of a neat cot- 
 tage make himself perfectly ridiculous by the way in 
 which he lays out the walk from the street to his front 
 door. There is a prevailing opinion that such walks 
 should be curved ones, and gentlemen, often otherwise 
 shrewd and intelligent, place themselves without question 
 in the hands of some self-styled '^garden architect," 
 and thus manage to make themselves the laughing stock 
 of a neighborhood. There was a well marked instance 
 of this in a garden occupying a block in almost the cen- 
 ter of Jersey City, where a man pretending to have a full 
 knowledge of the subject, induced the proprietor to have 
 a walk running about one hundred yards from the street 
 to the house, made so curved that its length w^as nearly 
 twice that distance. It was hard on the butcher's and 
 grocer's boys, and it was said that even book-peddlers and 
 sewing-machine agents, and lightning-rod men, looked 
 ruefully at it and left him in peace. Some old authority 
 on this subject says, that there ^' never should be any 
 deviation from a straight line unless from some real or 
 apparent cause." So if curved lines are insisted on, a 
 tree, rock, or building must be placed at the bend as a 
 reason for going around such obstacles. It will be evi- 
 dent to any one who reflects upon the matter, that a 
 curved walk running a distance of a hundred yards or so 
 from the street to the house, across an unplanted lawn, 
 is utterly absurd. All short foot-walks from the street to 
 the house should be straight, entering from the street at 
 as near right angles as possible, and leading direct to the 
 front door. There should be no necessity for a carriage 
 road to the front entrance of a house, unless it is distant 
 
WALKS. 
 
 15 
 
 at least 100 feet from the street, and then a drive is best 
 made by having an entrance at each side of the lot, as 
 given in figure 4, presuming that the width of the 
 ground is 500 feet, and the distance from street to the 
 front door is 150 feet. Even here the foot-walk should 
 be direct. The width of the roads or Avalks must be 
 governed by the extent of the grounds. For carriage- 
 way the width should not be less than ten feet, and for 
 foot-walks, five feet. Nothing is more annoying than to 
 have a shower-bath in early morning from the dew from 
 
 STREET 
 
 Fig. 4. — APPROACH TO A HOUSE — ^DRIVE ATfTD PATH. 
 
 an overhanging branch in your narrow walk. We often 
 see gardens of considerable pretentions where the walks 
 are not more than three feet wide, where it is utterly im- 
 possible for two persons to walk abreast without getting 
 their dresses torn or faces scratched by overhanging 
 branches. Besides, it argues a narrowness in the 
 owner, particularly if the grounds are at all extensive, 
 and looks as if he were determined to cultivate every 
 available foot of land. Of course it is another matter 
 when the garden plot is limited to the width of a city 
 lot, (20 or 25 feet) ; then such economy of space is per- 
 fectly excusable. The character of the soil must in a 
 great measure determine the manner of making the road. 
 Every one must have noticed that after a heavy rain, un- 
 paved streets in some districts remain next to impassable 
 for many hours, while in others, after the same amount 
 
16 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, 
 
 of rain, the roads will seem firm and comparatively dry. 
 In the former all carriage roads, and even foot-walks, to 
 have any satisfaction from them, should have their founda- 
 tions formed something like that shown in' figure 5 ; this 
 gives thorough drainage for the water at each side, and a 
 depth of from one foot at center to two feet on sides of 
 rubble stone and gravel to form the bed of the road or 
 walk ; but in sandy or gravelly soils, through which the 
 
 
 Fig. 5. — SECTION OF ROAD WITH DRAIN EACH SIDE. 
 
 water passes quickly, no such expense is necessary, as an 
 equally good road may be made by five or six inches of 
 gravel. In foot-walks on such soils, I have found that 
 three or four inches of gravel mixed with one fourth its 
 bulk of cement to ''bind," when watered and well rolled, 
 makes an excellent smooth walk, and one in which, be- 
 cause of its hardness, there is no trouble with weeds. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 MANURES. 
 
 Whether one wishes to cultivate vegetables, fruits, or 
 flowers, all soils, to give good results, sooner or later need 
 manure ; this is more particularly the case with what are 
 known as ''vegetables," these being usually quick grow- 
 ing, succulent plants. No "fertilizer" answers so well 
 for all purposes as thoroughly decayed stable manure, 
 whether from horse or cow stable, it makes but little dif- 
 ference, except that that from the horse stables is best 
 suited for heavy soils, while that from the cow-stables 
 
MANURES. 17 
 
 suits best for light soils. The quantity used for vegeta- 
 bles should not be less than would coyer the whole sur- 
 face of the ground at least three inches deep, and it 
 should be mixed with the soil as thoroughly as possible 
 by plowing or spading. In the absence of stable manure, 
 recourse must be had to concentrated fertilizers, the best 
 of which are Peruvian guano and bone dust. Here a word 
 of caution is necessary as to the quantity to be used ; as 
 their fertilizing qualities are concentrated, instead of 
 being diffused as in stable manure ; if either guano or 
 bone dust, or fertilizers of similar character, come di- 
 rectly in contact in large quantities, with the roots of 
 plants, it injures them beyond remedy, hence in the use 
 of these the necessity for caution. In our large field 
 practice in vegetable growing, we use about 2,000 lbs. 
 per acre of guano, sowing it on the surface of the ground 
 after plowing, and then harrowing it in so as to mix it 
 with the soil to the depth of five or six inches. Now, as 
 there are 4,840 square yards in an acre, it v/iU be seen that 
 something more than half a pound of guano or bone dust 
 is required for every square yard of surface to be fertilized. 
 This quantity will just nicely cover the surface, about as 
 thick as the sand on a sanded floor ; after spreading on 
 the dug surface, it should be mixed with the soil with a 
 spading fork or long-toothed rake to the depth of five or 
 six inches, bearing in mind that the more thoroughly it 
 is mixed with the soil the better will be the result. If 
 used in ''hills" for corn, tomatoes, melons, etc., the 
 same proportionate quantity is to be applied, and the 
 mixing must be equally thorough. 
 
 LXjl 
 
18 GAEDEKINa FOB PLEASUBE. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HOW TO USE CONCENTRATED FERTILIZERS. 
 
 Whatever kind of concentrated fertilizer may be used, 
 I find it well repays the labor to prepare it in the follow- 
 ing manner: to every bushel of fertilizer, add three bush- 
 els of either leaf -mold (from the woods), well pulverized 
 muck, sweepings from a paved street, or — in the absence 
 of either of the above — common garden soil. In every 
 case the material employed must be as dry as it is possi- 
 ble to procure it. When guano is used, be careful to 
 have it thoroughly pulverized and broken up before mix- 
 ing with the other ingredients. The fertilizer must be 
 well mixed with the soil or mold used by turning it at 
 least twice. This mixing should be done in winter, or 
 early spring, and the material packed away in barrels 
 in a dry place for at least a month before using it. The 
 main object of this operation is for the better separation 
 and division of the fertilizer, so that when applied, it 
 can be more regularly distributed over the land ; besides 
 this, no doubt the fertilizing qualities of the leaf -mold 
 or other substance are developed by this treatment. Ex- 
 periment has shown that this method of using concentra- 
 ted fertilizers of nearly all kinds, materially increases 
 their value. One of the most successful market-garden- 
 ers in our neighborhood, has adopted this method for 
 years, and in extensive experiments with different kinds 
 of fertilizers, with and without being mixed, finds a sav- 
 ing of quite one-third in quantity in thus treating them. 
 He finds that 1,200 lbs. of guano, mixed with two tons 
 of garden soil, and sown over the surface after plowing, 
 and then harrowed in, is equal in effect to 2,000 lbs. 
 of guano used without mixing. 
 
HOW TO USE COI^CEN"TEATED FERTILIZERS. 19 
 
 We have ourselves experimented with guano, blood 
 and bone, and bone flour, with nearly like results, and as 
 a top dressing for grass, we think the advantage of mix- 
 ing is even more marked. When fertilizers are applied 
 to corn, potatoes, tomatoes, etc., in hills or drills, it is 
 not only more economical to mix in this manner, but 
 much safer in inexperienced hands ; for when any strong 
 fertilizer is used pure, injury is often done to the roots 
 by their coming in contact with it in too great quantity 
 in the raw state, owing to imperfect mixing in the hill 
 or drill, while, if composted as advised above, the danger 
 is much less. We are often asked as to the quantity to 
 be applied to different garden crops. Taking guano as 
 a basis, we would recommend for all vegetable crops, if 
 earliness and good quality are desired, the use of not less 
 than 1,200 lbs. per acre, (an acre contains 4,840 square 
 yards, and cultivators for private use can easily estimate 
 from this the quantity they require for any area), mixed 
 with two tons of either of the materials recommended. 
 This quantity is used broadcast by sowing on the ground 
 after plowing, and deeply and thoroughly harrowing in, 
 or if in small gardens, forked in lightly with the prongs 
 of a garden fork or long toothed steel rake. When ap- 
 plied in hills or drills, from 100 to 300 lbs. should be 
 used to the acre, according to the distance of these apart, 
 mixing with soil, etc. , as already directed. 
 
 In regard to which of the fertilizers is most desirable, 
 we find but little difference, provided each is pure. Gu- 
 ano at $80 per ton, is relatively as cheap as blood and 
 bone fertilizer at $65 ; bone flour at $50, or superphos- 
 phate at $40 ; for in the lower priced articles we find we 
 are obliged to increase the quantity to obtain the same 
 results, so that the cost is nearly alike whichever be 
 used. The all important point is the purity of the arti- 
 cle, a matter that few working farmers or gardeners ever 
 attempt to decide except by the results in culture, hence 
 
20 GABDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 we advise each one who has been using a fertilizer that 
 has proved satisfactory, to experiment but Hghtly with 
 another until the new article has proved its merits. The 
 competition in the manufacture of articles so much in 
 use as fertilizers, has in many instances forced down 
 prices below tiio point at which they can be produced in 
 a pure state, hence the widespread adulteration with 
 '^ salt cake," "plaster," and other articles utterly worth- 
 less but to make weight. Next in meanness to the quack 
 that extracts money from a poor consumptive for his vile 
 nostrums, is the man who compels the poor farmer or 
 gardener, may be a thousand miles away struggling for 
 an existence, to pay freight on the sand mixed with his 
 guano, or the plaster in his bone dust. In this relation 
 I am reminded of a retribution that fell on the " Sands 
 of Life man," who figured so conspicuously a few years 
 ago in New York. The advertisement of this philan- 
 thropic gentleman, it will be remembered, was that "A 
 retired clergyman whose Sands of Life had nearly run 
 out," would for a consideration tell how the " running 
 out " could be stopped in others. A kind hearted fellow 
 in Illinois, deeply sympathizing with the old gentleman 
 on account of his loss of " sand," sent him by express — 
 but forgot to prepay — a thousand pounds of the article ! 
 It is reported that the " retired clergyman " on opening 
 the cask, expressed himself in a manner not only ungrate- 
 ful, but utterly unclerical. We counsel no vengeance, 
 but if some of these sand-mixing guano men could have 
 the sand sifted out by their victims with compound in- 
 terest added, and returned to them under the fostering 
 care of an express company, it would be but even handed 
 justice, 
 
SPECIAL FERTILIZEES FOR PARTICULAK PLAi^TS. 21 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SPECIAL FERTILIZERS FOR PARTICULAR PLANTS. 
 
 A man called at my office a few years ago with some 
 dozen bottles as samples of special manures, indispensa- 
 ble, lie said, as fertilizers for certain kinds of plants. 
 He had those with him that he claimed to be specially 
 prepared for cabbage, corn, potatoes, wheat, grass, lawns, 
 beets, etc. , etc. He even invaded Flora's realm, and de- 
 clared that his nostrum for roses was a specific for any 
 languid capers of this sometimes rather coquettish queen 
 of flowers. His own arguments, which were rather 
 plausible and glibly uttered, were backed up by numer- 
 ous certificates — authentic, I have no doubt — where his 
 ^'potato fertilizer" had worked wonders with some, 
 with others his '' corn manure " had been of undoubted 
 benefit, and so on all through the list. 
 
 Now, I have no reason to say that the vender of these 
 fertilizers was a quack, except the broad fact, gathered 
 from an experience of thirty years, that has shown me 
 that it makes but little difference with what fertilizer a 
 crop is treated, provided the soil is properly pulverized 
 and the fertilizer applied in proper proportions according 
 to its strength. Had all his separate kinds of fertilizers 
 been taken from the same bag, (provided that bag con- 
 tained a good article of bone-dust or guano), the result 
 to his patrons would have been the same, whether he 
 had used it on one or all of the crops that he had special 
 prescriptions for. 
 
 There are few market gardeners in the vicinity of New 
 York but who have at one time or another been obliged 
 to take anything they could get for fertilizing purposes, 
 and the difference has never been perceptible when ma- 
 nure from horse stables or cow stables has been applied, 
 
22 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 or when 1100 per acre has been expended for bone-dust 
 or PeruYian guano, and these all used on a dozen dif- 
 ferent crops without any discrimination. Agricultural 
 chemistry may be all yery well in some respects, but if 
 it gets down to such hair-splitting niceties as to analyze 
 scores of special plants, and tell us that we must feed 
 each with only just such food as the analysis show it to be 
 composed of, then our common sense, born of practical 
 experience, must scout and ridicule such nonsense. 
 
 Plants, like animals, are not so much kept in good 
 health by the special kind of food given as by the proper 
 quantity and conditions surrounding the individual when 
 the food is received, and what proper temperature and 
 pulverization of soil may be to the plant, air and exercise 
 and also proper temperature are the corresponding con- 
 ditions necessary for healthy animal life. Who will say 
 that the beef -fed English laborer is in any way the phys- 
 ical superior of the Irishman or Scotchman whose daily 
 food has been only potatoes and oat-meal ? You get 
 usually fine and nearly equal development in each case, 
 but it is a condition due to a natural use of the muscles 
 in the open air in a congenial climate rather than to 
 anything special in the food. It would be quite as rea- 
 sonable to tell us that a special food, chemically consid- 
 ered, is necessary for each class of our domestic animals 
 as for our domestic plants, and none but the veriest 
 charlatan or ignoramus will do either. 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 THE LAWN. 
 
 Since the introduction of the lawn-mowers, the keep- 
 ing of the lawn has been so simplified that no suburban 
 residence is complete without one, and there is now no 
 
THE LAWN". 23 
 
 more excuse for tall grass ^' going to hay" in tlie door 
 yard than there would be for cobwebs taking possession of 
 • the rooms inside the dwelling. We occasionally see some 
 parsimonious individual, even now, who remembers that 
 in his grandfather's days, grass was allowed to grow for 
 the food of the "critters," and he leaves it for food for 
 his "critters " still. Though at the same time his furniture 
 inside, that nobody but himself ever sees, or has an op- 
 portunity to admire, for such men are not troubled with 
 friends, may have cost him $5,000 or $10,000. We have 
 two or three notable examples of this kind in my imme- 
 diate neighborhood, but it is gratifying to know that 
 such neighbors are not numerous, for the example of 
 the majority will soon shame them into decency. To 
 have a lawn in first rate condition, the ground must be 
 put in order in the way described under the heads of 
 " Draining" and " Preparation of the Soil," for if these 
 are necessary anywhere, they are still more necessary for 
 the lawn, the soil of which should be as thoroughly pul- 
 verized and enriched by manure, as any ground intended 
 for the cultivation of either vegetables or fruits. 
 
 Great care must be taken to have the surface of the 
 ground for the lawn, (unless a very large one), made 
 perfectly level, for if this is not done before the lawn 
 is sown, it cannot be altered but at great expense 
 and inconvenience. After the surface is made level 
 roughly, it should be further smoothed with the rake, 
 and all stones of any considerable size removed, so that 
 the surface will be smooth for the action of the lawn- 
 mower. Wherever the extent of the lawn does not ex- 
 ceed 2,500 square feet, and where sods can be obtained 
 from a suitable pasture near at hand without much cost, 
 the best way to make the lawn is to sod it, but before 
 doing so, the ground should be rolled or beaten down, 
 particularly if any portion of it has been filled in, so that 
 there may be no ^^ settling " to form hollows or inequali- 
 
24 GARDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 ties. A conYenient size of sod to lay down is 12 by 18 
 inches, and of a thickness of 2 inches, in laying see that 
 the edges are neatly laid together; and the whole firmly 
 beaten down with the back of a spade. If it is dry 
 weather when the work is done, it may be necessary to 
 thoroughly drench the newly-laid sod for a week or so 
 after planting, every other evening. When the lawn is 
 too extensive to be sodded, the following mixture of grass 
 seed may be used, which we have found to make an ex- 
 cellent lawn : 
 
 8 quarts Ehode Island Bent Grass. 
 
 3 quarts Creeping Bent Grass. 
 10 quarts Eed Top Grass. 
 10 quarts Kentucky Blue Grass. 
 
 1 quart White Clover. 
 
 This mixture is not indispensable to the formation of a 
 good lawn, though we believe it to be the best. Some of 
 the fine lawns seen at Newport, E. I., are composed al- 
 most entirely of Ehode Island Bent grass mixed with 
 about one-sixth of white clover, but the humidity of the 
 atmosphere there has no doubt more to do with the rich- 
 ness of the lawn than the variety of grass it is composed 
 of. I may here caution the use of spurious seed for this 
 purpose. It is no uncommon thing that either through 
 ignorance or short-sighted economy, ^^ hay-seed " is taken 
 direct from the hay-loft and sown to form the lawn. If 
 from good hay, the seed will be principally timothy and 
 red clover, and vain would be all the attempts to get a 
 smooth lawn from such a source. It would be about as 
 reasonable to expect figs from thistles. If the soil is rich, 
 and has been thoroughly prepared, three bushels per acre 
 will be sufficient, but if thin and poor, from four to five 
 bushels had better be sown. If sown in early spring, as 
 soon as the soil is dry enough to work, a good lawn will 
 be formed by midsummer the first year, if it has been 
 
designs" for gardek. 25 
 
 mown regularly at intervals of eight or ten clays. The 
 seed must be sown as evenly as possible, and for this rea- 
 son a calm day must be chosen, as a very slight wind will 
 throw the seed into heaps. After sowing, the ground 
 may be lightly harrowed if the surface is large, but if 
 not, give it an even raking, but in either case the ground 
 should be smoothed down with a roller or patted with a 
 spade, so to form a smooth surface to be mowed. Al- 
 though if a choice can be had, it is best to sow the lawn 
 seed in early spring, yet it can be sown nearly as profita- 
 bly in September, or in the more southerly states in Oc- 
 tober, or for that matter, even as late as May and June 
 in spring, only if so late, it is better to mix one quart of 
 oats to every bushel of grass-seed, that the oats may 
 shade and protect the young grass from the sun until it 
 has root enough to support itself. But if sown in March 
 or April, or in Sei3tember or October, there is no need of 
 using the oats, as no injury will be done by the sun at 
 these seasons. To keep the lawn in proper condition, it 
 should be mowed over once every week if the weather is 
 moist, and not less than once in two weeks, even in dry 
 weather, for if the lawn has been properly made in the 
 first place, and ^' top dressed" with a good coat of well- 
 rotted manure in fall, and the rough raked off in spring, 
 the weather must be dry and hot indeed to prevent its 
 growth. 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 DESIGN FOR GARDEN. 
 
 As this book is intended to comprehend all the wants 
 of a cottage or suburban garden, including flowers, fruits, 
 and vegetables, it would increase its size too much to 
 
26 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 J^ 
 
 ^ r 
 
 O 
 
 <\ ]< 
 
 a- 'IS 
 
 <\ < 
 
 'm 
 
 ■^ /: 
 
 \7 P 
 
 o 
 
 \7 
 & /A 
 
 200 i^eei i?Voni;. 
 Fig. 6.— DESIGN FOR LAYING OUT GROUNDS. 
 
DESIGJ^ FOR GARDEN". 27 
 
 give a great variety of designs for the flower-garden. To 
 those that require such, some intelhgent landscape gar- 
 dener should be consulted. Intelligent, I say, for nine 
 out of ten that pretend to be landscape gardeners are 
 not ; but consult a man able to draw a neat design, for 
 if he cannot do that he is not a very safe person to be 
 intrusted with the working out of the plan of another. 
 You are careful to ascertain that the architect for your 
 house is a man of education and intelligence before you 
 entrust yourself in his hands, but when it comes to de- 
 signing the lawn and flower-grounds, the veriest bog- 
 trotter, who styles himself a " landscaper," is too often 
 allowed to display his ^^art," and at the same time make 
 you ridiculous. Eest assured that if such a pretender 
 has not had ambition enough to become fairly well in- 
 structed, he is not likely to show much taste in design- 
 ing your grounds. 
 
 The design, (fig. 6), shows an area of 200 feet by 350, 
 or a plot of nearly two acres, about one-third of the 
 whole facing the street, is used for flower-garden and for 
 dwelling, the two-thirds in the rear for fruit and vegeta- 
 ble grounds. There is a point in this sketch, to which I 
 wish to call attention, as it is one too often lost sight of ; 
 the flower-garden and lawn face the street, while the fruit 
 and vegetable grounds are at the rear ; the view of these 
 from the street is shut out upon one side by a screen or 
 tall hedge of evergreens, H, and upon the other by a 
 curvilinear glass structure, G, which may be used either 
 as a grapery or a greenhouse. The walk, w, passes on 
 each side of the house to connect with other walks at the 
 rear ; the beds, r, may be planted in ribbon lines either 
 with flowering plants or those with brilliant and strongly 
 contrasting foliage. The flower-beds, f, each side of the 
 entrance near the front, may be made of any form that 
 may be preferred ; a simple circle planted as suggested 
 in the next chapter, will produce a good effect, and be 
 
28 
 
 GARDEiq^IKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 _!. 
 
 Feet Front. 
 Fig- T.— DESIGN FOR GROUNDS WITH CARRIAGE-DRIVE. 
 
DESIGN FOE GAKDEiq-. 29 
 
 more easily cared for than beds of the style here given ; 
 most persons, where the floral ornamentation is, as in this 
 case, confined to a few eflective masses, prefer to change 
 not only the manner of planting such beds each year, but 
 to alter their form occasionally. The unbroken area of 
 lawn at c is intended for a croquet ground. At the rear 
 of the house the central walk is spanned by a grape ar- 
 bor, G A, if one wishes the vines to afford shade, or a 
 simple trellis may run each side ; the borders next the 
 fence on each side and at the rear, (not shown in the 
 plan), may also be used for grapes, or will be convenient 
 for raspberries, currants, and other small fruits. The 
 large plots, y r, are for the main crops of vegetables and 
 fruits ; asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries, and such other 
 crops as remain year after year without being disturbed, 
 should be so placed at the outset as to be interfered with 
 as little as possible in the frequent working of the soil 
 necessary for other crops. A lot of this size will require 
 the labor of one man, whose time must be exclusively 
 devoted to the garden, and to nothing else, to keep it in 
 proper order. Such is the extent, and something near 
 the design of the grounds I use for such purposes. I 
 generally have selected one of my most active men to 
 take charge of it, and find he has plenty to do to do it 
 well. A second design (fig. 7) shows a lot of the same 
 dimensions, with a different arrangement, there being a 
 stable, s, and no rear entrance, it is necessary to provide 
 one from the front, and in order to secure a greater 
 breadth of lawn, the house is placed at one side of the 
 center of the grounds. The drive, d, in the design is made 
 to turn around a group of flower-beds of fanciful pattern, 
 but this may be replaced by a single circle, planted as 
 suggested in the next chapter, or by a group of ornamen- 
 tal evergreen or other shrubs. In this design the cro- 
 quet-ground is at c, and the grape arbor, G A, is used to 
 shut out the view of the vegetable grounds from the street. 
 
30 GAEDEi;riNG FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 A row of closely planted evergreens at h serves to break 
 the force of the winds ; the suggestions as to the other 
 details in the preceding plan, (fig. 6), apply to this also. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER-BEDS. 
 
 The subject of lawn planting, including the proper 
 setting and grouping of trees and shrubs, and their most 
 effective disposal, is too extended for the scope of this 
 book. These matters belong to works upon landscape 
 gardening, and are ably treated in those by Downing, 
 Kemp, Weidenmann, Scott, and others. But the plant- 
 ing of flower-beds comes properly within our limits. The 
 old-fashioned mixed borders of four or six feet wide along 
 the walks of the fruit or vegetable garden, were usually 
 planted with hardy herbaceous plants, the tall growing at 
 the back, with the lower growing sorts in front. These, 
 when there was a good collection, gave a bloom of varied 
 color throughout the entire growing season. But the 
 more modern style of flower borders has quite displaced 
 such collections, and they are now but little seen, unless 
 in very old gardens, or in botanical collections. Then 
 again, we have the mixed borders of bedding plants, a 
 heterogeneous grouping of all kinds of tropical plants, 
 still holding to the plan of either placing the highest at 
 the back of the border if it has only one walk, or if a bed 
 has a walk on each side, the highest in the middle, and 
 the plants sloping down to the walk on each side. The 
 mixed system still has its advocates, who deprecate the 
 modern plan of massing in color as being too formal, and 
 too unnatural a way to dispose of flowers. But be that 
 
PLANTING OF LAWJS^S A]S"D FLOWEE-BEDS. 
 
 31 
 
 as it may, we will not stop to argue the matter further 
 than to state, that in a yisit to England in 1872, it was 
 most evident that the '^ Carpet Styles" of massing plants 
 as done at Battersea Park, London, were interesting to 
 the people in a way that no mixed border could ever be. 
 Any one who has not yet seen the wonderful effects pro^ 
 duced by the massing of plants in this way, has a treat 
 before him. J^early all the public parks in and about 
 London are so planted, and thousands of cottage gardens 
 vie with each other in imitation of the parks. But to 
 plant in patterns or in ribbon lines requires for immediate 
 effect a large number of plants, for the reason that they 
 must be so set out that they will meet to form continu- 
 ous masses shortly after planting. 
 
 An illustration in circles (for convenience), is given in 
 fig. 8, to show what plants can be massed together to give a 
 pleasing effect. Of course 
 it will be understood that 
 a bed of any shape can be 
 planted in this manner as 
 well as circular beds, only 
 keeping in view the width 
 of the bed. For example, 
 a bed having a diameter 
 of ten feet may require 
 eight or ten different 
 kinds of plants to form the 
 necessary contrast, while 
 that of five feet will not re- '^'^' ^-^iagram of flower-bed. 
 quire more than half that number. The following named 
 plants are well suited for planting in masses or ribbon 
 lines ; they are named as nearly as possible in the ordei 
 of their hight, number one in each case being the tallest. 
 Many of them will require to be '^pinched back" to 
 keep at the proper hight, so that the outline will form a 
 regular slope from the center or highest point, down to 
 
32 GARDEITING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 the front or lowest point — thus in hst No.l, Canna Indica 
 zebrina will grow six feet high, while Lobelia Paxtoni, 
 
 
 Fig. 9. — SECTION OF FLOWER-BED. 
 
 the lowest, is less than six inches. The section given in 
 figure 9 will give an idea of the arrangement of a bed of 
 this kind. 
 
 List No. 1. ^""'inVJ!^^^ 
 
 1. Canna Indica zebrina, leaves green and l)ro"v\'n striped 6 
 
 2. Salna spleudens, flowers scarlet 5 
 
 3. Golden Coleus, leaves orange and broAvn 4 
 
 4. Achyranthes Liudeni, leaves rich crimson 3 
 
 5. Phalaris arundinacea var., leaves white and green 21/2 
 
 6. Achyranthes Gilsoni, leaves carmine 2 
 
 7. Bronze Geranium, leaves golden bronze IVa 
 
 8. Centaurea Candida, leaves white • 1 
 
 9. Alternanthera latifolia, leaves crimson and yellow V4 
 
 10. Lobelia Paxtoni, flowers blue Va 
 
 TiT'^T "NTo 9 Average hight 
 
 Uibi. ISKJ. A,. in feet. 
 
 1. Caladium esculentum, leaves large green. 5 
 
 2. Japanese Maize, leaves striped white and yellow 5 
 
 3. Coleus Verschaffeltii, leaves chocolate crimson 4 
 
 4. Delphinium bicolor, flowers blue and white 3 
 
 5. Cyperus alternifolius var., leaves white and green 2V2 
 
 6. Achyranthes Verschaffeltii, leaves crimson 2 
 
 7. Mountain of Snow Geranium, leaves white and green IV2 
 
 8. Trop?eolum, Ball of Fire, flowers flame color 1 
 
 9. Echeveria metallica, leaves gray, metallic lustre V4 
 
 10. Alternanthera amcena, vellow and carmine Va 
 
PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER-BEDS. 33 
 
 It will be understood that these lists of plants can be 
 transposed in any way necessary to suit beds of all 
 widths, keeping in view that where small beds are placed 
 near walks the lower growing kinds are most suitable, 
 while for beds at greater distances from walks, or 
 other points of yiew, the taller growing kinds must 
 be used. Very fine effects are produced by plant- 
 ing on a lawn a single specimen of stately habit, such 
 as some varieties of the Eicinus, or Castor-oil Bean, 
 which grow ten and twelve feet in hight in one season, 
 and are particularly striking plants. Or instead of this, 
 a mass of six, eight, or twelve plants of scarlet sage will 
 form a group six feet high by as many in diameter, and its 
 dazzling scarlet color, contrasting against the green of 
 the lawn, is superb. Many of the Amaranths are also 
 well suited for planting in single groups. Amarantus 
 tricolor gigantea, (Joseph's coat), grows to the hight of 
 six feet, and its leaves in the late summer and fall 
 months exceed in brilliancy of color anything we know 
 of in foliage ; scarlet, crimson, and golden yellow pre- 
 dominating. Another, the Amarantus Mcolor ruber, 
 grows to the hight of five feet, and is plumed with scar- 
 let crimson. In contrast to these, plants of a more 
 somber tint may be used, in individual specimens or in 
 a group of such as Pampas Grass, {Gyyierium argenteum), 
 or the Eavenna Grass, {Eriantlius Ravennce), each of these 
 attain a hight from six to ten feet, and have a graceful ap- 
 pearance. The Tanyah, Caladium esculentum, a tropical 
 looking plant growing three or four feet in hight, and 
 producing leaves sometimes eighteen inches across. 
 
 THE CAKPET STYLE OF FLOWER-BEDS. 
 
 Planting, as practised at Battersea and other parks in 
 London, is as yet but little seen with us ; our public 
 parks here have shown a lamentable want of taste in this 
 
34 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 matter, especially those of New York and Brooklyn ; 
 Philadelphia and Boston have done better, but all of 
 these are weak attempts when compared with the grounds 
 of some of our private gentlemen, notable among whom 
 are H. W. Sargent, of Peekskill, N. Y., and H. H. 
 Hunnewell, of Boston. The grounds of Mr. H. are 
 thrown open to the public, who have the opportunity of 
 seeing effects in this style of planting, nearly equal 
 to anything in Europe, entirely at the expense of the 
 munificent owner. The carpet style, so called, con- 
 sists in using plants that can be kept down to a few 
 
 
 Fig. 10. — DESIGN FOE SCROLL-PATTEKN. 
 
 inches above the level of the lawn. A great variety of 
 succulent plants are used, such as Echeverias, Sedums, 
 Mesembryanthemums, etc., together with numerous low- 
 growing Alpine plants, such as Ajugas, Cerastiums, Lys- 
 imachias, Lobelias, Ivies, Alternantheras, etc., etc. 
 This style of bedding requires an immense number of 
 plants. One bed In the carpet style at Battersea Park, 
 containing less than 1,000 square feet, required 4,000 
 plants to produce the desired . effect in the design, and 
 not a leaf of these was more than six inches above 
 the lawn. Planting in this style admits of unlimited va- 
 
THE CAEPET STYLE OF FLOWER-BEDS. 
 
 35 
 
 riety in the form of the beds, and contrasts of colors ; so 
 great is the care exercised abroad in arranging the de- 
 signs that colored papers, giving the exact tints of the 
 leading flowers and colored foliage, are supplied by the 
 dealers, in order that colored designs may be made and 
 
 Fig. 11.— OENAMENTAIi DESIGN, AFTER THOMPSON. 
 
 studied before putting them into execution; a single 
 misplaced color may spoil the effect of the whole. In 
 works of this kind the parts of the design should be sep- 
 arated by well defined portions of turf, as the color of 
 each member of it is brought out more clearly and dis- 
 tinctly, and the whole has a much better effect if a lib- 
 eral amount of green is introduced. The two plans, figs. 
 10 and 11, are introduced to give an idea of some of the 
 
36 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 simpler designs ; the scroll-work, fig. 10, in various forms 
 is much used, either near a drive, or as a margin or 
 frame to more elaborate work. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 FALL, OR HOLLAND BULBS. 
 
 These bulbs are mainly such as are imported from Hol- 
 land in the fall, and consist of Hyacinths, Tulips, Cro- 
 cuses, Jonquils, Narcissuses, Snow-drops, and various 
 other less known kinds. AVith few exceptions, all these 
 bulbs are hardy in our most northern states, though all 
 are benefitted by a covering of two or three inches of 
 rough litter or leaves spread over the beds before freezing 
 weather. The soil best suited for all bulbs is a rich, but 
 rather sandy loam. All these bulbs may be planted any 
 time from the middle of September, until the ground is 
 closed by frost in December. Hyacinths should be 
 planted at distances of eight or ten inches apart each 
 way, and from three to four inches deep. Tulips, the 
 same distance apart, but a little less deep. Crocuses four 
 inches apart and two inches deep. Jonquils and Narcis- 
 suses may be planted six inches apart and four inches 
 deep. Snow-drops the same as Crocuses. 
 
 Very fine effects are produced by planting Hyacinths in 
 lines each of one color, or when mixed colors are placed 
 in the lines, care must be taken to have them arranged 
 so that the bed will give harmonious blending of color. 
 Crosuses have nearly the same range of color as the 
 Hyacinth, and may be planted either way. 
 
 All these bulbs are easily grown in pots. The Hya- 
 cinth requires a pot six inches in depth and diameter ; in 
 
37 
 
 potting it is only necessary to fill the pot rather loosely 
 to the brim, and. press the bulb down, so that only about 
 one-fourth of it appears aboye the soil. The pot should 
 then be struck smartly on the bench to give the soil 
 the proper degree of firmness, leaving it, when fin- 
 ished, about an inch or so below the rim of the pot. 
 Then water freely to still further settle the soil. The 
 pots should then be placed where it is cool and dark, 
 which will encourage a strong development of roots, 
 before the bud starts to grow at the top. Such a situa- 
 tion can be made by covering up the pots with four or 
 five inches of sand in a cool cellar, under the stage of a 
 cool greenhouse, or in a sunken pit, in each case covering 
 with sand or leaves, so as to exclude heat and frost, for it 
 must not be forgotten that a strong development of root 
 can only bo had at a low temperature, say from forty to 
 fifty degrees, and any attempt to force them to make 
 roots quicker by placing them in a high temperature, 
 will most certainly enfeeble the flower. If we will only 
 observe how nature points out to us this necessity, we 
 will see how safe it will be to follow her. In all hardy 
 plants, the roots in S23ring, (when the temperature is 
 low), form the rootlets before a leaf or flower is devel- 
 oped. To show the bad effects when this is not the case, 
 take a root of any of our hardy lilies and plant it in 
 March, and take a similar bulb and plant it in May ; it 
 will be found that the early planted bulb that had an 
 opportunity to slowly develop its roots before there was 
 heat enough to start the top, will give a finer growth and 
 finer flower than the bulb that was planted in May, and 
 run up into growth before it had an opportunity to 
 sufficiently push its roots into the soil. The culture of 
 all the bulbs before named, in pots, is the same as that of 
 the Hyacinth, only the Narcissuses and Tulips should be 
 planted three or four in a six or seven-inch i3ot, and Cro- 
 cuses ten or twelve in a pot. All these bulbs may like- 
 
38 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 wise be grown in moss, or even pure sand, provided that 
 it is kept damp ; the necessity being a medium wherein 
 the roots can revel in moisture. But whether potted in 
 soil, sand, or moss, there will be no need to water, but 
 at the time of potting, provided the pots have been cov- 
 ered up as directed, and kept cool and dark. If potted 
 say the first week in October, they may be removed from 
 their dark quarters in seven or eight weeks, only before 
 doing so, turn a few of them out of the pots to see 
 whether they have rooted around the ball of earth. 
 They may then be placed in full light and watered freely. 
 
 HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. 
 
 Although the Jonquils and Narcissuses can be grown in 
 water in glasses as well as the Hyacinth, they are not 
 often so treated, hyacinths being the only bulbs largely 
 flowered in that way, some of which are shown in fig. 12. 
 
 Vase-shaped. Bohemian. 
 
 T\g. 13.— HYACINTH GLASSES. 
 
 The glasses are made of various styles, from the plain 
 old-fashioned Belgian to the ornamental Bohemian 
 glasses, and of clear glass or colored, green, amber, claret, 
 and other shades. The glasses, which are best of a 
 dark color, are filled with water just high enough for the 
 base of the bulb to touch it. The glasses must be 
 placed in a cool and dark place, just such a situation 
 
PEOPAGATIOIT OF PLAiq^TS BY SEEDS. 39 
 
 as recommended for those grown in pots. Care must be 
 taken that they do not freeze, else the glasses will be 
 broken, and the Hyacinths more or less injured. Single 
 Hyacinths are better than double ones for glasses. The 
 water should be changed every six or eight days. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 PKOPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 
 
 Nature provides abundantly for the reproduction of 
 plants, and the difficulty of multiplying by one method 
 is compensated by the ease with which it may be done 
 in another. "Whenever we find a plant takes root with 
 difficulty from '^ slips" or cuttings, in nine cases out of 
 ten we find that it seeds freely, and gives us a ready 
 means of increase. Thus we find the much admired 
 Centaureas, one kind of the '' Dusty Millers," the white 
 leaved plants now so much used in massing and for 
 baskets, are exceedingly difficult and slow to root from 
 cuttings, but are readily raised from seeds. Our fine 
 strains of blotched Petunias are also troublesome as cut- 
 tings, but make plants quickly from seeds. The Cycla- 
 men with its turnip-like stem or bulb, could only be 
 propagated by cutting in j^ieces, disfiguring its shape, and 
 requiring years to form a circular bulb again, but here we 
 have seed coming to our help which germinates freely, 
 and makes a flowering plant in one year. The Apple 
 Geranium never affords proper cuttings from which to 
 make a plant, but it seeds freely, from which sj^lendid 
 plants can be produced in a few months. So the Pri- 
 mulas and Cinerarias, both slow and uncertain from cut- 
 tings, seed freely, Echeveria metallica, one of the beau- 
 
40 GAKDEKING rOR PLEASURE. 
 
 tiful plants of the House-Leek family, produces no bud 
 from the base of the leaf, as nearly all the other species 
 do, but to make up, it seeds abundantly, and so with 
 hundreds of other plants to which our space will not per- 
 mit us to refer. There is no rule by which we can des- 
 ignate what plants are best propagated by seeds, and 
 what by cuttings, experience being the only teacher, and 
 even the experience of a lifetime is too short for those 
 of us that have had the largest practice. 
 
 Seedling plants can be nearly as well raised in the win- 
 dow of a sitting-room or parlor, provided the tempera- 
 ture is right, as in a greenhouse, for seeds do not need a 
 strong direct light while germinating, in fact that is 
 often a difficulty in a greenhouse, as the surface of the 
 seed-bed dries up too quickly in the direct sunshine, ne- 
 cessitating watering, which bakes the surface. The best 
 thing wherein to sow seeds is shallow boxes ; these need 
 not be more than two or three inches deep, with open 
 seams at the bottom through which water will drain 
 quickly. Fill the boxes within half an inch of the top 
 with light rich earth ; if it can be procured, nothing is 
 better than black leaf-mold from the woods, or light 
 sandy soil mixed with an equal bulk of stable manure, so 
 rotted as to resemble leaf-mold, it will not .answer un- 
 less rotted as fine as dust. In the absence of either of 
 these, sweepings from a paved street are excellent, mixed 
 with light sandy soil, the object in all cases being light- 
 ness of the soil or mold in which the seed is to be sown ; 
 for if tiny seeds, as many of our flower-seeds are, are 
 embedded in a stiff soil, the germ in many of them is too 
 weak to push its way to the light. When the proper soil 
 has been secured, pat it down with a smooth board until 
 it is as smooth and level as it well can be, then sow the 
 seed carefully over the surface, distributing it evenly, 
 then take a common kitchen sieve and sift just so much 
 earth evenly over the seed as will cover it and no more ; 
 
PROPAGATION OF PLAINTS BY SEEDS. 41 
 
 then take a watering-pot with the finest kind of a rose, 
 and shower the earth with the spray. Keep the box at a 
 temperature as near sixty degrees as possible, taking care 
 to give it a shower of spray only when the surface 
 appears to be dry ; but few seeds will fail to germinate 
 under such conditions. But after the seeds have 
 ^^ brairded," as the Scotch gardeners say, comes another 
 diflEiculty ; in quite a number of plants, particularly 
 if sown in the house, just as soon as the seed leaf has de- 
 veloped, and before the first rough or true leaves have 
 formed, the seedling is attacked by a minute fungus, 
 that will often sweep off the whole crop in 48 hours, if not 
 attended to. The required attention is, that as soon as 
 there are indications of the ^^ damping off" of these tiny 
 seedlings, they must be carefully taken up and planted 
 out in similar boxes, prepared exactly as the seed-boxes 
 have been ; they may be planted quite closely, not more 
 than half an inch apart, and let their further treatment 
 be exactly the same as in germinating the seeds. In the 
 course of a few weeks they will have grown freely, and 
 they may then be lifted and placed in similar boxes, but 
 wider apart^ say three or four inches, or potted singly in 
 ixvo and a half or three-inch pots as most convenient, 
 until such a time as they are to be planted out in the 
 open ground, or to be used otherwise. In this way as 
 great a number of plants may be raised from a 25c. or 50c. 
 packet of seed as would cost 125 or 150 to purchase, be- 
 sides the far greater satisfaction of their being the pro- 
 ducts of your own hands. 
 
42 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 
 
 There is no more interesting operation to the amateur 
 gardener than that of increasing his stock of plants by 
 cuttings or slips. Heretofore, it was accounted a great 
 mystery, and unless with some of the commonest kinds 
 of Geraniums, few amateurs ever presumed to invade the 
 territory of the professional gardeners. Nearly all writers 
 on the subject had so befogged this simple matter with 
 technical nonsense, that few, not regularly brought up to 
 the business, presumed to attempt it. We now consider 
 it one of our simplest operations, far simpler than raising 
 many kinds of plants from seed, and though we raise 
 now over two millions of plants annually, and keep a 
 man with three assistants doing nothing else the entire 
 year but propagating plants from slips, yet we could take 
 any careful, intelligent man from among our garden 
 laborers, and install him as a competent propagator in a 
 month. Where plants are propagated from cuttings in 
 large numbers, we elevate a bench, usually four feet 
 wide, above the flue or hot-water pipes, to within a foot 
 or so of the glass at the front, and on this table or bench 
 we place three or four inches of sand, of any color or tex- 
 ture, provided it is not from the sea-shore, and contains 
 salt. This bench is boarded down in front, so as to confine 
 the heat from the flue or pipes under it, and give what 
 is called ^^ bottom heat" ; the sand on a bench so formed 
 will indicate a temperature of perhaps seventy degrees, 
 while the atmosphere of the greenhouse, particularly dur- 
 ing the night, will be ten degrees less. N'ow, if the cut- 
 tings are in the right condition, and are inserted an inch 
 or so in this sand, freely watered, and shaded from the 
 sun from 9 or 10 a.m. to 3 or 4 p.m., cuttings of nearly 
 
PROPAGATIOIT OF PLANTS BY CUTTIlsrGS. 43 
 
 all kinds of .plants are certain to take root in from ten to 
 twenty days. But the cuttings must be in the right 
 condition, and this is best shown by the engraving, (fig. 
 13). It will be observed that the upper portion of the 
 shoot is snapped or broken, while the other is only kneed 
 or bent ; this snapping point, as we now term it, is a 
 true indication of proper condition of the cutting ; where 
 it bends and does not break, it is too hard, and though a 
 
 Fig. 13. — PROPER AND IMPROPER STATE OF CUTTINa. 
 
 cutting will root, when in that condition, it will be 
 slower in doing so, and the roots thrown out from it will 
 be weaker and more wiry than when emitted from a 
 cutting taken in the condition in which it breaks. Be- 
 sides the plant grown from the older cutting will not 
 
44 GAKDENIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 likely be so healthy or vigorous as one made when the 
 shoot is in the proper state. 
 
 In propagating woody plants, such as Eoses, Azaleas, 
 or Camellias, this test of breaking or snapping of the 
 cutting does not in these indicate the proper condition, 
 although they also will root if taken in the soft state, 
 yet we find it is not quite so well to do so as to wait until 
 the cuttings of these woody plants gets harder ; what 
 this proper hardness is, it is not yery easy always to de- 
 termine. In roses the best condition for taking the 
 cutting is reached when the young shoot, (of which the 
 cutting is made), develops the flower bud to about the 
 size of a large pea. Although the shoot on which the 
 flower bud shows, will make a proper enough cutting, 
 yet if it is not desired to waste the flower, cuttings had 
 better be made of the ^^blind" shoots, i. e., such young 
 shoots as do not flower. In making the cuttings of 
 roses, or in fact of almost all plants, (with a few excep- 
 tions hardly worth noting), there is no need to cut at a 
 joint, although nine gardeners out of ten still do so, par- 
 ticularly those who have learned the business in Europe, 
 where, in this as in many other things in horticulture, 
 they still follow the dictum of some savant of a century 
 ago, never questioning why. But our business necessities 
 here, have caused us to ride rough -shod over many of 
 their set rules, and in none more ruthlessly than in this 
 matter of propagating. But as this book is written 
 mainly for amateurs in gardening, I will proceed to give 
 a simple method by which any one can propagate plants 
 from cuttings or slips, even when no greenhouse or hot- 
 bed is at hand. It is called 
 
 THE "MUD" OR "SAUCER SYSTEM" OF PROPAGATING. 
 
 Take any common saucer or plate, into which put 
 sand to the depth of an inch or so, then prepare the cut- 
 tings in the usual manner, and insert them in the sand 
 
MUD OR 
 
 SAUCER SYSTEM. 
 
 45 
 
 close enougli to touch eacli other as in fig. 14. The sand 
 is then to be watered to bring it to the condition of mud. 
 The saucer with the cuttings is then placed on the shelf 
 of the greenhouse, in the hot-bed, or in a sunny window 
 of any room in the dwelling house ; in each case fully 
 exposed to the sun and never shaded. But one condi- 
 tion is essential to success — until the cuttings become 
 rooted, the sand must he Icept continually saturated with 
 water and always in the condition of mud. To do this the 
 saucers must be watered at least once a day with a very 
 fine rose watering pot, and the watering must be done 
 very gently, else the cuttings may be washed out. There 
 is every probability that ninety per cent of all cuttings 
 put in will take root, pro- 
 
 vided they were in the 
 proper condition, and the 
 temperature has not been 
 lower than 65 degrees nor 
 above 100 degrees. By 
 the saucer system a higher 
 temperature maybe main- 
 tained without injury, as the cuttings are in reality placed 
 in water, and will not wilt provided the water is not allowed 
 to dry up. Still the detached slip, until rooted, will not 
 endure a long continuation of 100 degrees, and we advise 
 that propagation be done at such seasons that the cuttings, 
 wherever they may be, will have as near as possible an 
 average temperature of 75° or 80° m the sunlight. The 
 cuttings will root (according to kinds and the tempera- 
 ture), in from six to twenty days. Verbenas, Heliotropes, 
 Fuchsias, etc. , root in a week, while Eoses, Carnations, or 
 Azaleas, take two, three, or four weeks. When rooted they 
 should be potted in light soil, (such as recommended in 
 the article ^^Propagating of Plants by Seeds,") in jDots 
 from two to three inches in diameter, and treated care- 
 fully by shading and watering for two or three days. To 
 
 Fis;. 14. — SAUCER PROPAGATION. 
 
46 GARDEN^IKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 sucii as desire more extended information on the subject 
 of propagating plants by cuttings, I would refer to my 
 work, *^ Practical Floriculture." 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 PROPAGATING BY LAYERING. 
 
 Although florists now rarely resort to propagation by 
 layering, yet now and then it may be desirable for ama- 
 teurs to increase the number of some favorite plant dur-^ 
 ing the summer season, where no other method of propa- 
 gation can be practised. The only difference between a 
 layer and a cutting is, that the cutting is entirely de- 
 tached from the parent plant, while the layer remains 
 partially connected with it. Although layering may 
 be done with the ripened wood of vines or shrubs of the 
 
 growth of the previous 
 season, yet it is prefer- 
 able to use the shoot of 
 the present year in its 
 half green state ; for ex- 
 ample, a rose or flower- 
 ing shrub is pruned in 
 the usual way in spring; 
 by midsummer it will 
 have made strong shoots 
 one, two, or three feet in 
 length from or near the 
 Fig. 15.— PROPAGATING BY LATEKiNQ. t)ase of thc plant. Takc 
 
 the shoot then in the 
 left hand, (after having stripped it of its leaves for a few 
 inches on each side of where it is to be cut), keep the 
 fingers under the shoot, and make a cut on the upper part, 
 
ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 47 
 
 an incli or so in length, and to about half the thickness 
 of the shoot, then slightly twist the ^^ tongue" or cut 
 part to one side, as shown in the engraving, fig. 15; hav- 
 ing opened a shallow trench, fasten the branch down 
 with a hooked peg, and cover with earth ; it is a good 
 plan to place a flat stone over the layer to prevent the 
 soil from drpng out. This plan of cutting the shoot in 
 layering is rarely shown in illustrations on the subject, 
 the cuts usually being represented at the under side of 
 the shoot. When cut at the lower side, the shoot can 
 not be laid down without danger of breaking it. 
 
 CHAPTEK XV. 
 
 ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 
 
 It is often desirable to be able to bud or graft one 
 variety of plant on another entirely different variety ; 
 and it is an interesting fact to know that the bud taken 
 from one plant and inserted so that it grows in another, 
 and is entirely sustained by the plant into which it has 
 been budded, in no way changes its character. This 
 fact is so well known to gardeners that they rarely think 
 it necessary to mention it in writing on the subject, and 
 many amateurs interested in horticultural matters have 
 very confused notions on budding. To illustrate: if a 
 leaf bud is taken from a white Rose, and inserted in the 
 stem of a red Rose, all the branches that proceed from 
 this bud, leaves or flowers, will be identical with the 
 white Rose from which it was taken. Or if a leaf bud 
 of the red Rose be inserted in the white, the same result 
 would follow ; it will be identical in all respects with the 
 red variety. Or you may take a bud or graft from the 
 
48 GARDENII^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 sourest crab apple, and insert it into a branch of the 
 sweetest apple tree you can find, and the shoot which 
 grows from the crab apple bud will ever remain a crab, 
 and will in no way be affected by the sweet apple stock 
 on which it is growing. Or if the operation is reversed^ 
 and the sweet apple is budded or grafted on the sour, 
 the result will be the same ; its individuality will be in 
 no way changed, it will be identical with the variety 
 from which it was taken. 
 
 Still further to illustrate this miatter of budding or 
 grafting, you may take a rose-bush having any number 
 of shoots, it makes no difference whether one or a hun- 
 dred ; on each shoot you may bud a distinct variety of 
 Rose, of all the colors, forms or odors embraced in the 
 Roses, and each one will hold its distinct characteristic 
 of color, form, or fragrance, be it crimson, white, pink, 
 or yellow in color, double or single in form, or of tea or 
 other odor. Or you may take a young seedling apple 
 tree, insert a bud of another into it, then after that bud 
 has made a growth, bud still another variety into that, 
 and so on as many as is desired, rub of all shoots in the 
 stem that start below, and the variety last budded will 
 hold its individuality unchanged, no matter though the 
 life-sustaining sap flows through the cells of several dif- 
 ferent kinds. You may mark the space occupied by each 
 of the varieties, and cut back to any particular variety, 
 and the fruit that will be produced by that part, which will 
 then be the top, will hold its character without change. 
 What is true of roses and apples, is of course equally 
 true of whatever plant that can be grafted or budded. 
 
 The stock does not in any manner affect the individu- 
 ality of the graft, and I supposed that this was one of 
 the generally accepted axioms of horticulture, but in a 
 conversation not long ago with a gentleman whose opin- 
 ion is entitled to consideration, I found him inclined to 
 believe that there were some few exceptions to what was 
 
ABOUT GRAFTING AIS^D BUDDING. 49 
 
 admitted to be a general law, and in support of his argu- 
 ment, he referred me for exceptions to Darwin's ^' Plants 
 and Animals under Domestication." I have examined 
 this work, and find only two cases wherein it is claimed 
 that the graft is influenced by the stock, or the stock by 
 the graft. The first is at page 457, Vol. 1, where "^^Prof. 
 Caspary describes the case of a six-year-old white Moss 
 Rose, which sent up several suckers, one of which was 
 thorny and destitute of moss, exactly like those of the 
 Provence Eose, {R. centifolia), another shoot bore both 
 kinds of flowers, and in addition longitudinally striped 
 flowers. As this white moss had been grafted on the 
 Provence Rose, Prof. Oaspary attributes the above changes 
 to the influence of the stock, but from the facts already 
 given, and from others to be given, bud variation with 
 reversion is probably sufficient explanation " ; and Dar- 
 win proceeds to give nearly a dozen cases of like variation 
 where there was no grafting at all. A very marked case 
 of this "bud variation" is at the present time existing 
 in my own greenhouses. In a bed of about one hun- 
 dred plants of the new tea-rose, " La Nankin," all made 
 from the cuttings from one parent plant, we have had 
 four distinct varieties. The original flower or bud has 
 its base or lower half of a nankeen yellow color, while its 
 upper half is pure white, the separate colors being clearly 
 defined, yet among our plants from cuttings we have 
 some flowers that are entirely of the nankeen color, with- 
 out white ; then again pure white with no nankeen, and 
 on one shoot the flowers came of a light pink or blush 
 shade. Now had Prof. Caspary a grafted plant of "La 
 Nankin " playing these freaks, he no doubt would have 
 concluded that it was the influence of the graft on the 
 stock. There are other instances in grafting where an 
 amalgamation of individualities appaj^ently occurs ; these 
 cases are familiar to all horticulturists of much experi- 
 ence, and are also alluded to by Darwin in the work above 
 
50 GARDENIlvra FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 referred to. He gives a number of instances where the vari- 
 egated Oleander grafted on the plain leaved variety as a 
 stock, imparts the variegation to the stock, or where a yel- 
 low-leaved ash tree, grafted on the common green-leaved 
 variety, produced a blotched or variegated variety. That 
 most of the variegation in the foliage of plants, is due to 
 disease, or at least some disturbance of the regular func- 
 tions of the leaf, there is but little doubt, and it is there- 
 fore but an accidental condition of the individual. Where 
 a variegated plant is budded or grafted upon a healthy 
 subject, the disease is transmitted from the unhealthy 
 bud or graft to the healthy stock in a manner somewhat 
 analogous to innoculation of smallpox virus in man. The 
 character or constitution of the individual is in no way 
 affected in the one case more than in the other. Marked 
 instances in which plain-leaved plants become variegated 
 by being grafted with variegated cions, are afforded by 
 the variegated Abutilons ; but in all such cases it is sim- 
 ply the ^^ blotching" or "disease" of the foliage that 
 occurs, there is no change whatever in the coloring of the 
 flowers or shape of the leaves, the individuality of these 
 remains unchanged. That leaf variegation is indicative 
 of disease, is manifest from another fact. It is quite a 
 common thing to find a shoot sent out by the silver- 
 leaved or variegated Geraniums that is pure white in stem 
 and leaves, not a particle of green, or such golden varie- 
 gated kinds of Geraniums as "Mrs. Pollock "will send 
 out a pure yellow shoot ; but all efforts to make plants of 
 such shoots will fail ; they may feebly root as cuttings, 
 or they may be grafted on a green-leaved, healthy stock 
 long enough to drag out a few weeks of existence, but the 
 disease is here thoroughly established, and all attempts 
 to propagate these entirely abnormal growths completely 
 fail. It has been claimed that the Duchesse d'Angoiileme 
 and other pears are much better flavored when grafted on 
 the quince than on the pear stock, and these are quoted 
 
HOW GRAFTIii'G AXD BUDDIKG ARE DOiq-E. 51 
 
 as examples of the influence of the stock on the graft, but 
 to me this seems capable of another explanation : 
 
 ^Ye know that the pear stock is a vigorous and 
 rampant grower as compared with the quincC;, and 
 may it not be that this yigor of growth in the tree impairs 
 the flavor of the fruit in some varieties, just as we find 
 the flavor of fruits impaired when grown in too rich soil ? 
 The effect of soil upon quality is particularly marked in 
 melons. I remeniber that I once grew a field of three 
 acres of nutmeg melons, one-half of the patch was rich 
 bottom land, and the other portion was a rather poor 
 hillside. The fruit produced on the bottom was much 
 larger, but so different from and inferior in flavor to 
 those on the hillside that no one would have recognized 
 the two as being of the same variety. The same, though 
 in a less marked degree, probably occurs in other fruits 
 under similar conditions. From these reasons I believe 
 it safe to assert that no evidence has yet been shown 
 wherein the stock in any manner affects the graft other 
 than that it may cause it to grow stronger or weaker, 
 just as the stock is strong or weak, and the amount of 
 such influence will be only such as a rich or poor soil 
 would produce. In other words, the '' stock" is only a 
 medium or soil wherein the grafted individual grows, and 
 affects it no more than if it drew its sustenance direct 
 from the earth — strong, if on a strong stock, as on a fer- 
 tile soil, and weak, if on a weak stock, as on a sterile soil. 
 
 CHAPTER XYL 
 
 HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING AKE DONE. 
 
 After this discussion of general principles, let us 
 come to the practice of grafting and budding. In what 
 has been said, they have been used as synonyms, and their 
 
62 GAKDENING FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 object 'is precisely the same — to propagate a particular 
 plant upon a rooted plant of another kind. Among 
 fruits we do this because we cannot multiply choice vari- 
 eties by seed or by cuttings ; stocks are raised from seed, 
 which if allowed to grow and bear, might produce a poor 
 and worthless fruit, or it may be a good kind. To make 
 matters sure, we graft a twig of a kind that we know 
 upon a seedling about which we know nothing. With 
 Camellias, the choice kinds cannot well be propagated from 
 cuttings, but some of the commoner kinds will grow in 
 this way, and the choice Camellias are grafted upon stocks 
 obtained by rooting cuttings of the others ; so in yarious 
 cases among fruits and flowers, budding or grafting af- 
 fords the readiest, if not the only method, by which we 
 can multiply certain yarieties. A graft is a twig contain- 
 ing one or more buds, and so inserted or j)lanted in the 
 stock that the new bark and new wood of the two shall 
 be in close contact ; in budding, a single bud with no 
 wood, or as little wood as possible, is inserted or planted 
 below the bark of the stock and in direct contact with its 
 new or sap-wood. While we giye the two operations dif- 
 ferent names, the French call budding simply a variety of 
 grafting — shield-grafting. In a general way it may be stated 
 that in grafting we use buds of a previous year, and in- 
 sert them upon the stock where they are to grow the 
 spring after they are formed, and as soon as vegetation 
 starts, these buds commence to grow. In budding we 
 use buds of the current season's growth ; the recently 
 formed buds, near the end of the growing season, are 
 planted in the stock where they unite, and remain dor- 
 mant until spring, when the inserted bud pushes into 
 growth at the time that the natural buds of the stock 
 start. These statements apply only to out-door grafting 
 and budding ; when these operations are performed under 
 glass, the propagator has control of atmospheric condi- 
 tions, and varies them to suit the subjects in hand. In 
 
GRAFTING. 
 
 63 
 
 out-door grafting, such as that upon fruit-trees, the cions 
 are best if cut in the fall and preserved in sand or saw- 
 dust in the cellar during the winter ; though with very 
 hardy sorts this is not essential, they should be cut before 
 any swelling of the buds takes place. The operation suc- 
 ceeds best when the buds on the cion are perfectly dor- 
 mant, and those on the stock have swollen and about to 
 open. 
 
 GRAFTING. 
 
 The various methods of grafting are too many to describe 
 here ; the simplest is the cleft graft ; the stock is sawed 
 off and the end cleft or split for a few inches down 
 through the center, (fig. 16) ; the cion, (or tAVO if the 
 stock is over an inch in 
 diameter), with two or three 
 buds, has its lower end 
 smoothly cut to form a 
 wedge a trifle thicker on 
 one side than the other, 
 (fig. 17) ; the cleft in the 
 stock is pried open by means 
 of an iron wedge or a wedge- 
 shaped stick, and the cion 
 or cions set with the thicker 
 edge of the wedge outward, 
 observing to bring the in- 
 ner bark and new wood 
 of stock and cion in as 
 close contact as possible ; 
 withdrawn, the spring of the stock will hold the cions 
 in place, (fig. 18) ; the junction is to be covered with 
 grafting wax, or waxed cloth, taking care to completely 
 cover every wounded portion of both stock and cion. It 
 is by this method that most of the grafting is done all 
 over the country ; it is rude but very successful ; the ob- 
 
 Fig. 16. Fi^. 17. Fig. 18. 
 
 CLEFT GRAFTING. 
 
 the opening wedge being 
 
54 
 
 GARDEIS'Ii^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 jection to it is that it leaves too great a wound to be 
 closed over. For small stocks the whip-graft is generally 
 used ; it is much easier to do it than to describe it ; stock 
 and cion should be as near of a size as possible ; both are 
 cut with a similar slope, and in each slope is cut a tongue 
 as in fig. 19 ; when the two slopes are put together, the 
 
 Fig. 19.— WHIP GRAFT. 
 
 Fig. 20. — SIDE GKAFT. 
 
 two tongues are interlocked as in the engraving, taking 
 care that the inner bark of stock and cion come in con- 
 tact as completely as possible. In this illustration the 
 parts are represented as tied with twine, to show the 
 joint below, but in practice the whole is completely cov- 
 ered with a band of waxed cloth. This, where practica- 
 ble, is an excellent graft, there being no large wounds to 
 heal over, and the points of union are numerous. This 
 graft is much used by nurserymen in root-grafting small 
 apple and pear stocks. A very simple form called the side- 
 graft is often employed by florists and nurserymen ; the 
 
GRAFTIIs^G. 
 
 65 
 
 cion is cut to a long wedge, and the stock has a down- 
 ward cut made in its stem into which the cion is inserted 
 as in fig. 20. In grafting the CamelHa and other hard- 
 wooded plants, a combination of the whip and side graft 
 is made use of as shown in fig. 21. 
 
 Grafting wax used to cover the wounds made in graft- 
 ing may be purchased at the seed and im23lement stores, 
 or the amateur can make it himself. It should be soft 
 
 Fig. 21. — GKA-FTING THE CAMELLIA. 
 
 enough to be molded by the heat of the hand on a cool 
 day, but not so soft as to run when exposed to the heat 
 of the sun. It is essentially rosin and beeswax, with tal- 
 low or linseed oil enough to make it sufficiently soft. A 
 good formula is rosin 2 lbs., beeswax 1^|^ lb., tallow ^|^ 
 lb. The better way for the amateur to use this is to melt 
 the whole together thoroughly and then dip in it strips 
 of well worn cloth, such as may be torn from a worn-out 
 sheet or calico dress. These waxed strips will tear read- 
 ily, and may be neatly fitted to the graft to make a com- 
 
56 
 
 GARDEI^ril^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 plete covering; the fingers should be slightly greased 
 when applying the waxed cloth. 
 
 BUDDING 
 
 The shoot or stock to be budded upon must be in a 
 thrifty growing state, so that the bark can be raised 
 freely from the wood, and the bud to be inserted must 
 be in such a state that it shows prominently at the axil of 
 the leaf. Select a smooth portion of the stem of the 
 stock, strip it of leaves, sufficiently to allow room for 
 the operation, then make a cut through the bark to the 
 
 w^ood of an inch 
 or so, with a cross 
 cut at the top, as 
 shown in fig. 23 ; 
 it will be observed 
 that the illustra- 
 tion shows that a 
 slight cut of the 
 bark is made above 
 the cross cut, this 
 is done to allow the 
 bud to slij) in bet- 
 ter; this custom we 
 think is not gener- 
 al, but we find the 
 operation is done quicker and better by its use. Then take 
 the shoot from which the bud is to be cut, and selecting 
 a properly developed bud, cut it from the shoot as shown 
 in fig. 22 ; if the portion of the shoot from which the bud 
 is taken is well ripened, it is best to separate the wood 
 from the bark of the bud ; but if not it had better re- 
 main on. Usually it is necessary to take the wood from 
 buds on the lower part of the shoot, while the ujoper 
 part being less ripened, those buds may be inserted 
 with the wood remaining. The edges of the cut in the 
 
 THE METHOD OF BUDDING. 
 
TREATMENT OF TROPICAL BULBS, SEEDS, ETC. 57 
 
 stock are lifted by the point of the knife or an ivory at- 
 tachment to the budding-knife, the bud inserted and 
 pushed down as in fig. 24 ; the portion of bark attached 
 to the bud that projects above the horizontal cut in the 
 stock is cut off, and the tie applied. This is usually bast 
 matting, though cotton wick or other soft material will 
 do. The engraving, fig. 25, shows where to place the 
 tie, but when of bast it quite covers the wound and ex- 
 cludes water and prevents drying. In two or three weeks 
 after the bud has been inserted, it will be safe to remove 
 the tying, and if the operation has been performed on a 
 Eose in June, it will often make a considerable growth the 
 same season, but it usually lies dormant until the next 
 spring. All shoots upon the stock below the bud must 
 be rubbed off, and when the bud that has been inserted 
 starts to grow, the stem above it must also be cut back 
 just above, so that the inserted bud which now becomes 
 the plant, may get the full benefit of the root. 
 
 CHAPTER XYII. 
 
 TREATMENT OF TROPICAL BULBS, SEEDS, ETC. 
 
 Any information that can be given in an article short 
 enough to be suitable for amateurs on a subject so ex- 
 tended as this must be confined to a few well known and I 
 leading plants most valued for general cultivation. First 
 may be j^laced the Tuberose, which in most northern 
 states must be artificially forwarded to bloom in j^erfec- 
 tion in the open air. The seasons are too short for the 
 full development of the flowers in fall unless the bulbs 
 are so forwarded. All that it is necessary to do is to 
 place the dry bulbs in soil in pots or in boxes about May 
 
58 GAKDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 1st, (not before), keeping them rather dry until they 
 start to grow freely, when more water may be given. 
 Plant the bulbg" thus started in the open border, the first 
 week in June. The bulbs while being forwarded may be 
 kept in any place where the thermometer ranges from 
 about 65° to 75° at night. We usually place them un- 
 der or alongside the hot-water pipes in our greenhouses, 
 covering them up with paper to keep the heat of the 
 pipes from them. Light is not necessary until they have 
 well started to grow. A greenhouse is not essential for 
 starting them in, as a hot-bed, or even a warm sitting 
 room, will do nearly as well. Any one wishing to have 
 their Tuberoses "started" can do it themselves just as 
 well as a florist can, and as the dry bulb costs less than 
 half the price of the started one, and is mere safely 
 transported by mail or otherwise, any one taking the 
 trouble to do it will save expense and have the bulbs in 
 better condition for planting. 
 
 Some of my readers have seen or cultivated the bulbs 
 known as fancy or spotted-leaved Caladiums. There are 
 probably no plants that assume such varied and wonder- 
 ful markings of the leaves as these, and when properly 
 grown, they are among the most attractive plants at our 
 horticultural fairs. The continued high temperature 
 necessary for the healthy growth of the Tuberose, is 
 equally indispensable for the Caladium. The bulbs we 
 treat at first exactly in the same manner as the Tube- 
 rose ; that is, they should not be started much before 
 May 1st, and never should they be kept for any length of 
 time in a less temperature than 65°. They are best 
 started in small pots, and should be shifted into larger 
 ones as soon as these get filled with roots. Started in 
 May, and properly treated, they should be large enough 
 by August or September to require a flower-pot twelve 
 inches in diameter, and the plant should be, according to 
 the variety, from two to three feet in diameter across the 
 
TKEATMEITT OF TROPICAL BULBS, SEEDS, ETC. 59 
 
 leaves. Caladiums require a partial shade, and if kept 
 in a greenhouse during summer, the glass should be 
 shaded, but the light of an ordinary sitting-room would 
 be just about right ; so that even those who have not a 
 greenhouse can grow these rather rare and beautiful 
 plants with perfect ease. The only thing necessary if 
 grown as a window plant, is to turn the pot around every 
 few days so that each side may get a proper amount of 
 light — a necessity with all plants grown in windows. 
 The soil best suited for its growth is that known as sandy 
 loam, to which should be added one-third rotted manure 
 or leaf mold. 
 
 The same time of starting and a similarly high tem- 
 perature is required for Begonias of all kinds, Bouvardias, 
 Cissus, Coleuses, Dracaenas, Euphorbias, Poinsettias, and 
 all other plants known as ^^ hot-house" or 'tropical," 
 and the same general treatment will in nearly all cases 
 lead to satisfactory results. All of the plants or bulbs 
 referred to will dwindle or die if long kept in a low tem- 
 perature, and hence it is important that amateurs should 
 remember that they ought not to attempt the cultivation 
 of these plants unless they have the means of steadily 
 keeping up the necessary high temperature. For that 
 reason we recommend that they should not be started 
 before May, as then they run less risk of being chilled. 
 
 What is true of tropical bulbs or plants is equally so of 
 tropical seeds. Those who have not had experience or 
 who have not the means of keeping up the necessary 
 high temperature, should not sow the seeds of tropical 
 plants before April 1st. Of vegelable seeds, the 
 best known of this class are the Tomato, Pepper, and 
 Egg-plant. I know they are often started in March in 
 hot-beds or greenhouses with satisfactory results, but let 
 any one try the experiment of sowing on March 1st and on 
 April 1st, and note the result in the earliness of the crops, 
 from the two sowings, and he will find that the chances 
 
60 GARDEKIl!^G FOE PLEASURE. 
 
 are that tlie last shall be first ; if it were always practi- 
 cable to keep the necessary temperature steadily along, 
 the first sown would be the first, but this is often 
 very difficult to accomplish, while there is but little dif- 
 ficulty with the later sowing, as assistance is then given 
 by the increasing outside temperature. For this reason 
 seeds of tropical annual flowers, such as Amaranths of all 
 kinds. Balsams, Salvias, Double Portulacas, Cannas, 
 Coxcombs, Zinnias, etc., should not be sown before April 
 in the hot-bed, or if in the open ground, in this latitude, 
 not before May 15th. 
 
 CHAPTEE XVIII. 
 
 THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 
 
 This naturally follows the preceding chapter, and I 
 will briefly state a few of the most important points ; first 
 of all is soil, or potting mold, often rather a troublesome 
 thing to get by those who have only a few dozen plants 
 to repot. The soil used by us, and most fiorists, for 
 nearly every plant we grow, is one combining freshness, 
 richness, and what is called friableness of texture ; this 
 condition we get by paring off the sod from the roadside, 
 mixing it with one-third of well-rotted stable maniire, 
 and throwing it in heaps until it rots ; turning it over 
 two or three times until the whole is well mixed ; if the 
 plants are small, we run it through a fine sieve before 
 using it ; if large, we use it rough, without sifting. But 
 it may not always be convenient to get this material, and 
 it is by no means indispensable to success ; leaf-mold 
 from the woods, mixed with any fresh field loam, and a 
 little rotted stable manure, will answer nearly as well ; 
 
THE POTTII^G OF PLANTS. 61 
 
 or city folks can get sweepings from the pavements, and 
 these mixed in equal bulk with any good fresh soil, that 
 from an old cultivated garden is not usually so good, 
 will make a pottiug soil in which almost any plant will 
 grow vigorously ; of late years we have used street sweep- 
 ings largely in our potting soil, and like it very much. 
 
 Now having the soil in proper condition, the next 
 thing is the pots, which, if they are not new, should be 
 thoroughly washed, so that the evaporation of moisture 
 will take place freely through the porous sides. One of 
 the most common errors among amateur cultivators is to 
 put their plants in too large pots. If a plant such as a 
 Kose or Geranium is lifted up out of the ground to be 
 potted, it should be placed in a pot only large enough to 
 allow an inch or so of soil to be placed below, and around 
 its roots, — or to make it better understood, if the plants 
 are, say a foot high, and a foot in diameter, they should 
 be pruned back so that the diameter will not be more 
 than 6 or 8 inches, and for such sized plants the pot 
 should not be more than 6 inches wide and deep. 
 
 The same rule applies to plants that have been grow- 
 ing in pots ; if it is now in a pot three inches wide, a proper 
 shift will be to one four or four and a half inches wide ; 
 if in a five-inch, shift to six and a half or seven-inch, 
 and so on. In taking a plant out of a pot to place it in 
 another one, turn it upside down with the fingers of the 
 left hand spread over the surface of the earth, or top of 
 the ball ; with the right hand holding the pot by the 
 bottom, give the rim a smart rap on the edge of a 
 board, and the ball of earth enveloping the root will 
 come out, just as a jelly will out of a mold. I am par- 
 ticular in referring to this simple matter, knowing that 
 it is no uncommon thing for ladies to break the pot with 
 a hammer in their endeavors to get at the root, although 
 they would hardly sacrifice a bowl to get at the jelly. 
 In shifting, or repotting, place a little soil in the bottom 
 
62 GAEDEKING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 of the pot, then place in the ball of roots exactly in the 
 center, which will leave a sj)ace of from half an inch to 
 two or three inches between this and the sides of the pot, 
 according to the size of plant to be shifted ; to pack this 
 space between the side of the pot and the ball of roots 
 with soil, it is better to use a flat stick with which to 
 crowd it in moderately firm, filling up the pot to with- 
 in an inch or so of the rim, this space being required to 
 enable it to hold water. After potting, give a good 
 w^atering with a sprinkler to settle the soil to the bottom 
 of the pot, but after this be sparing of water until the 
 plant shows signs of new growth, which will take place 
 simultaneously with its making roots in the fresh soil. 
 We use no potsherds or drainage of any sort in our pots, 
 believing it to be perfectly useless to do so, the evapora- 
 tion from the porous sides of the pot in our dry climate 
 giving drainage enough. In the greenhouse we always 
 spread an inch or so of sand on the bench or table 
 upon which the plants stand ; this to some extent pre- 
 vents the plants from being injured when watering has 
 been too long neglected, as the pots and the soil imbibe 
 moisture from the sand which is usually more or less wet. 
 When the plants are placed on bare shelves, either in the 
 sitting-room where they are well exposed to light, or in 
 the greenhouse, watering should be done at least once a 
 day, provided they are growing vigorously. 
 
 CHAPTEK XIX. 
 
 WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 The increase in the taste for winter-flowering plants, 
 within the past five years, has been even more positive 
 than that for the cultivation of plants out of doors, 
 formerly it was rare for florists to fill an order in the fall. 
 
WINTER FLOWERING PLAKTS. 63 
 
 but now, during the months of October, November, 
 and December, they make sliipments daily in large 
 quantities to every section of the country ; and these 
 nearly equaling in number those of plants for the open 
 ground in May and June. The plants best suited for 
 flowering in winter may be divided into two classes. 
 First, those requiring a moderate temperature at night, 
 say an average of 50 degrees. Whether the plants are 
 grown in the parlor or sitting-room of a private dwelling, 
 or in a greenhouse especially constructed for their cul- 
 ture, the conditions should be as nearly as possible the 
 same ; that is, uniformity of temperature ranging from 
 45° to 55°, and an avoidance of a dry atmosphere ; it is 
 easy enough in the greenhouse to- get a properly hu- 
 mid atmosphere by sprinkling the paths with water ; 
 but in a room in the dwelling house, the only thing that 
 can be done is to place j)ans of water on the stove, fur- 
 nace, or whatever may be the source of heat. If j)lants 
 are kept in a sitting-room or parlor, an east, south-east, or 
 south aspect should be chosen. Plants of the class 
 that may be grown at an average temperature of 50 
 degrees, are Azaleas, Abutilons, Ageratums, Carnations, 
 Cinerarias, Catalonian Jessamines, Cape Jessamines, 
 Camellias, Callas, Chorizemas, Geraniums of all kinds. 
 Hibiscus, Hyacinths, Myrsiphyllum, (Smilax), Maher- 
 nias. Primulas, Stevias, Eoses, Violets, and the various 
 kinds known as greenhouse plants, which, together with 
 those above named, can be found fully described in the 
 florists' catalogues. 
 
 The second class, or hot-house plants, require an aver- 
 age temperature of 60 degrees at night, the range of 
 which, however, may occasionally run from 55° to 65° 
 without injury. Of these we name the following : Be- 
 gonias, Bouvardias, Clerodendrons, Euphorbias, Epiphyl- 
 lums, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Poinsettia, Poses, (these 
 will do in either temperature), Tuberoses, etc. For de- 
 
64' GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 scrip tions of varieties, reference may be made to the cat- 
 alogues. The necessity for this difference in temperature 
 is not absolute, as many plants will do partially well in 
 either ; but we make this distinction as a guide to those 
 having a choice of temperatures, in order that they may 
 select the plants that are best adapted to the one at com- 
 mand. In a greenhouse, particularly if heated by a flue, 
 there is often a difference of five or ten degrees between 
 one end and the other ; in such a case the plants named 
 in the first class must be placed at the cool end, and those 
 of the second class at the other. 
 
 One of the most troublesome pests of plants grown in 
 the greenhouse, or sitting-room, in winter, is the aphis, 
 or ''green fly," as it is termed; we have no difficulty in 
 getting rid of it in the greerihouse, when it is separate 
 from the house ; all that is necessary is to get some to- 
 bacco stems (such as are thrown out as refuse by cigar 
 makers), and soak them in water for a minute or two ; 
 about half a pound or so for a greenhouse 25 x 20 feet is 
 placed over a small handful of shavings, only enough to 
 light the dampened tobacco, as too many might injure 
 the plants by smoke ; the burned tobacco stems give out 
 a smoke that is quickly fatal to the ''green fly." To 
 thoroughly prevent the least appearance of this insect, the 
 greenhouse must be fumigated every four or five days. 
 We fumigate all our greenhouses twice each week during 
 the entire year ; our rule being that an aphis must never 
 be seen upon any plant in the houses. If the greenhouse 
 is attached to the dwelling, so that the tobacco smoke 
 would find its way into the rooms, recourse may be had 
 to another remedy ; take these same waste tobacco stems 
 and steep them in water until the liquid is of the color 
 of strong tea, with this water syringe the plants- freely 
 twice a week, this will not only effectually destroy the 
 green fly, but will keep in check most other insects that 
 infest plants. Where only a few plants are kept in 
 
WINTER FLOWEEIiq^G PLAI^^TS. 65 
 
 rooms, the easiest way is to dip the plants entirely in 
 the tobacco water, moving them up and down in the 
 liquid, to wash the insects off if they haye a firm 
 hold. The ^^red spider" is another pest to winter 
 blooming j)lants, and wherever it is seen you may be cer- 
 tain that the atmosphere has been too dry, and very 
 likely the temperature too hot, as it is rarely found in 
 a cool, damp atmosphere. The treatment for this insect 
 in the greenhouse is copious syringings with water, but 
 where but a few plants are grown in the house, it is best 
 to go over the leaves, especially on the under side, with 
 a wet sponge. The red spider is so minute that it is 
 hardly distinguishable by the naked eye, but its destruc- 
 tive effects are quickly perceivable, as the leaves upon 
 which it works soon become brown, and if the leaves are 
 closely examined, particularly the underside, the minute 
 insect will be seen in great numbers. 
 
 Another troublesome insect among plants that are 
 grown in a high temperature is the *^ mealy bug." The 
 insect is flat, of whitish brovrn, usually nestling at the 
 axils of the leaves, where it is covered with a white pow- 
 der, making it easily distinguishable ; this is one of the 
 most annoying of all insects that attack plants, as noth- 
 ing seems to kill it, unless the remedy is strong enough 
 to injure the plants ; so that rubbing it off with a small 
 brush is the only safe remedy that we would care to 
 recommend to amateurs. We find alcohol thrown on by 
 what is called an " atomizer/' sold by druggists for be- 
 dewing with perfumes, to be very effective in destroy- 
 ing the ^^ mealy bug," as the alcohol reaches to every 
 part of the plant, but we also find that some plants when 
 in very soft growth are injured by even this light appli- 
 cation of alcohol. Another pest, not an insect, but a 
 vegetable parasitic growth known as mildew, affects but 
 few plants in-doors except the rose, still as it is most in- 
 jurious to those, we give the most effectual remedy for 
 
66 GARDEKING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 destroying mildew on roses either outside or under coyer. 
 Boil one lb. of lime and one lb. of sulphur in two gal- 
 lons of water, until it is reduced to one gallon ; allow the 
 liquid to settle until clear, and bottle it for use ; one 
 gill only, no more, of this liquid, is mixed in fiye gallons 
 of water, and this syringed thoroughly oyer the rose 
 plants in the eyening. If in the house, so that syringing 
 cannot be done, dip the plants in it as recommended for 
 the tobacco water. As with most other remedies, w^e pre- 
 fer to use this lime and sulphur mixture as a preyentiye 
 rather than as a cure, and we apply it to our roses at 
 least once a week, eyen though there is no appearance of 
 mildew. In proportion as plants are kept free from in- 
 sects and mildew, so will be their yigor and their thrifti- 
 ness. For more complete information see special chapter 
 on insects and mildew. 
 
 I may here warn the amateur against the too common 
 practice of placing plants in too , large pots. As a gen- 
 eral thing, when plants are receiyed from the florists, 
 they are sent without pots, and are usually in a condition 
 requiring them to be shifted into a pot larger than they 
 had been growing in ; for example, if they haye been 
 grown in a pot of 3 inches diameter, place them in one 
 a size larger, or 4 inches in diameter ; if they were in 4- 
 inch pots giye them one 5 or 6 inches across, and so on. 
 Though we entirely ignore the use of crocks, or drainage 
 in pots in our own practice, where we haye always the 
 proper sizes to use in potting, yet in cases where a suita- 
 ble sized pot is not on hand into which to shift, (for ex- 
 ample, if a plant that has been grown in a pot of 3 
 inches diameter, must be put in one of 6 inches), 
 then by all means fill up one-third of this too large pot 
 with broken pots, charcoal, or some such material to 
 drain off the surplus moisture that would otherwise be 
 injurious, in consequence of the pot being too large 
 for the plant ; but if the pot into which it is shifted is 
 
UNHEALTHY PLANTS — THE KEMEDY. 67 
 
 properly adjusted to the wants of the plant, the putting 
 in of crocks for drainage is worse than useless, I care not 
 what the plant may be. Our greenhouse establishment 
 now covers nearly two acres, yet not a pot is so '^ drained." 
 The need of a larger pot is shown by the earth becoming 
 so filled with roots that they well cover the outside of the 
 ball, but shifting into a larger pot should be done while 
 the roots are yet white ; if left until the roots get thor- 
 oughly matted, brown, and hard, it is too late, and the 
 future growth will be seriously retarded. If the plant 
 has been allowed to reach this condition, which we 
 call '^pot bound," it is best to lay the ball of roots 
 on one hand and slap it smartly so as to loosen it ; 
 by this treatment the new fibres strike out more read- 
 ily from the hard roots than if left with the ball still 
 compact. After shifting a plant, give it one good water- 
 ing, so that the soil will be thoroughly soaked to the bot- 
 tom of the pot ; but after that, keep rather dry until 
 there are indications of new growth. For manner of pot- 
 ting, see chapter on *'The Potting of Plants." We are 
 often asked as to the use of guano and other fertilizers on 
 in-door plants. As a general thing we use none in our 
 own practice, preferring to shift the plants into fresh soil 
 at the proper time, rather than to do so, and we would 
 advise the same to our friends of less experience, for the 
 use of all such stimulants is, under certain conditions 
 of the plants, dangerous in unpracticed hands. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 UNHEALTHY PLANTS— THE REMEDY. 
 
 Whenever plants begin to drop their leaves, it is cer- 
 tain that their health has been injured ; this may be due to 
 over-potting, over-watering, over-heating, too much cold, 
 
68 GARDENIl^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 or the application of such stimulants as guano, or to some 
 other cause which has destroyed the fine rootlets by which 
 the plant feeds, and induced disease that may lead to 
 death. The case is not usually important enough to call 
 in a ^^ plant doctor," so the amateur begins to treat the 
 patient, and the practice is in all probability not unlike 
 that of many of our household physicians who apply a 
 remedy that increases the disease. Having already de- 
 stroyed the, so to speak, nutritive organs of the plant, 
 the stomach is gorged with food by applying water, or 
 with medicine, by applying guano or some patent *^ jDlant 
 food. " Now the remedy is nearly akin to what is a good 
 one when the animal digestion is deranged — give it no 
 more food until it re-acts. We must then, if the roots 
 of the plant have been injured from any of the above 
 named causes, let the soil in which it is potted become 
 nearly dry ; then remove the plant from the pot, take 
 the ball of soil in which the roots have been enveloped, 
 and crush it between the hands just enough to allow all 
 the sour outer crust of the ball of earth to be shaken off ; 
 then re-pot in rather dry soil, (composed of any fresh 
 soil mixed with equal bulk of leaf-mold or street sweep- 
 ings), using a new flower-pot, or the old one, thor- 
 oughly washing it, so that the moisture can freely evap- 
 orate through the pores. Be careful not to over-feed the 
 sick plant. Let the pot be only large enough to admit 
 of not more than an inch of soil between the pot and ball 
 of roots. After re-potting, give it water enough to set- 
 tle the soil, and do not apply any more until the plant 
 has begun to grow, unless indeed the atmosphere is so 
 dry that the moisture has entirely evaporated from the 
 soil, then of course water must be given, or the patient 
 may die from the opposite cause — starvation. The dan- 
 ger to be avoided is in all probability that which brought 
 on the sickness, namely : saturation of the soil by too 
 much water. Other causes may induce sickness in 
 
PLAiq"TS SUITED FOR SUMMER DECORATION. 69 
 
 plants, such as an escape of gas in the apartment, or 
 smoke from a fine in the greenhouse, but in all cases, 
 when the leaves fall from a plant, withhold water, and 
 if there is reason to believe that the soil has been poi- 
 soned by gas, or soddened with moisture, shake it from 
 the roots as before advised, and re-pot in a fresh flower- 
 pot. Many years ago, when I used smoke-flues in my 
 greenhouses, some kindling wood, carelessly thrown on 
 the top of one of them, ignited, and the smoke caused 
 the leaves of every plant to drop. There were some 3,000 
 plants, mostly Tea-Eoses, in the greenhouse ; it would 
 have been too much of a job to re-pot all, but by with- 
 holding water for some ten days, they started a new 
 growth again, and very few plants were injured. 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 PLANTS SUITED FOR SUMMER DECORATION. 
 
 Quite a nurnber of winter-blooming plants can also be 
 used for flowering in the open borders in summer. 
 Among these are Carnations, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, Ge- 
 raniums, and particularly the monthly varieties of Roses. 
 Also the following, not strictly winter-flowering, are such 
 as will give a continuous bloom during the whole season, 
 from June until October or ^N^ovember. Antirrhinums, 
 (raised either from seeds or cuttings). Dwarf Dahlias, 
 Erythrina or Coral Plant, Gladiolus, Geraniums of all 
 kinds, particularly the class known as ^^ Zonal," double 
 and single, Lantanas, Lobelias, (seeds or cuttings). Petu- 
 nias, single, (seeds or cuttings). Petunias, double ; Pan- 
 sies, (seeds only) ; Pentstemons, Passion-flowers, Ronde- 
 letias, Salvias, (seeds or cuttings) ; Tropseolums, (seeds or 
 
70 GARDENING FOB PLEASURE. 
 
 cuttings) ; Verbenas, (seeds or cuttings) ; Veronicas. All of 
 the above have their principal attraction in their flowers. 
 The following are only useful for the brilliant color- 
 ing or other peculiarities of foliage. Alternantheras, 
 Achyranthes, Artemisias, Cerastium, Centaureas, (seeds 
 or cuttings) ; Caladiums, Coleus, Cinerarias, (seeds or 
 cuttings); Dracaenas, Echeverias, Geraniums, (silver, gold, 
 or bronze) ; variegated Ivies ; Lysimachia, variegated 
 Grasses ; Peristrophe, Sanchezia nobilis, Vinca major, 
 etc., etc. For descriptions see florists' catalogues. All 
 of the above can be raised from slips or cuttings taken 
 from plants, (or by seeds where noted), during the win- 
 ter or early spring months — January, February, March, 
 or April, either from plants that have been kept for 
 flowering in winter, or from large plants that have been 
 preserved for the purpose of propagation ; the young 
 plants raised from slips are in nearly every instance 
 preferable to the old plants. Our practice is, to grow 
 the old, or '''stock" plants, simply to make cuttings, until 
 we get enough from them, and then to throw the old 
 plant away, reserving the young ones only for sell- 
 ing, or for our own planting in 'the open borders. 
 Cuttings are rooted in the way described in the chapter 
 on '^ Propagation of Plants by Cuttings," or if by seeds, 
 as in chapter on ^' Propagation by Seeds." The young 
 plants should first be potted in 2-inch pots, and if early 
 in the season, they will require to be shifted into 3-inch 
 pots before it is time to plant them out in the open 
 ground, which it is not safe to do in this latitude until the 
 middle of May ; nor in any other latitude before the 
 time when tomatoes or egg plants can safely be planted out. 
 Nothing is more satisfactory to the lover of flowers than 
 raising his own plants, no matter how able he may be to 
 purchase. Those of his own raising, whether for his own 
 use or to present to his friends, are always more val- 
 uable than anything that money can buy. One of the 
 
PLANTS SUITED FOE SUMMER DECORATION. 71 
 
 most common mistakes made by purchasers of plants in 
 our city markets, is that of almost invariably choosing 
 large plants, forced into flower ; such plants are usually 
 grown under a high temperature to get them in bloom 
 early, and many a housewife has found that the beautiful 
 full blooming plant of a Eose, Fuchsia, or Pelargonium, 
 which she so tenderly carried home, will in 48 hours drop 
 its flowers and leaves in the cooler and drier atmosphere 
 of her greenhouse, parlor, or garden. But the florist is 
 hardly to blame for this, though I know he is often se- 
 verely censured ; not one in a score of those who pur- 
 chase plants in spring will buy any plant unless it is in 
 bloom ; the florist grows plants to sell, and must suit the 
 wants of his customer. This partial divergence from the 
 subject in hand, is to show that the small slips or cut- 
 tings that the amateur may raise himself, are in most in- 
 stances better than full-blown forced plants, costing 
 50c. or $1 each. This is particularly so with monthly 
 Eoses, Verbenas, and Petunias ; young plants of these, 
 set out in May, if not more than 3 or 6 inches high, will 
 grow and bloom in profusion the entire summer, while 
 those which have been forced, if they recover at all, will 
 be greatly inferior. 
 
 We plant our young Eoses in May, usually in beds 
 4 feet wide, setting the plants 12 inches apart each way ; 
 they begin to bloom by the middle of June, and con- 
 tinue without interruption until checked by frost in the 
 fall ; and so with most other kinds here named ; nearly 
 all of which are from young plants, propagated during the 
 winter and spring months. The product of cuttings or 
 slips from a ^' stock" plant varies greatly according to the 
 kind. A good healthy plant of Fuchsia, say 18 inches 
 high, will easily give 40 cuttings ; while a Eose or Gera- 
 nium of the same size will not afford half that number. 
 A fair average for medium sized plants of those named 
 would be 10 cuttings or slips to each plant, so that start- 
 
72 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 ing with 100 plants in tlie fall, by May 1,000 would be no 
 unreasonable increase to expect ; or in that ratio be the 
 number more or less. 
 
 If large quantities of plants are wanted for summer dec- 
 oration by those who have neglected to propagate them, or 
 did not wish to do so, they should purchase young 2Mnts in 
 March or April, at which time the florists, to make room 
 in their houses, sell them at very low rates, usually 
 not more than one-fourth of the price that the same 
 plants forced into bloom in May would cost. Such plants 
 at that season are grown mainly in 2 and 3-inch pots ; if 
 taken from these pots, say by 1st of April, and kept in 
 any cool room or greenhouse, where the temperature will 
 average 45° or 50° at night, by the time of setting out in 
 May they will have formed far better plants than those 
 pushed rapidly into flower in May. Or in other words, 
 110 expended in March or April, will buy one hundred 
 plants, which, if cared for as above described, will by the 
 middle of May be of more value than the plants 150 
 would buy at that date from the same florist. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXII. 
 
 HANGING BASKETS. 
 
 Baskets in which to grow plants are now made in a great 
 Yariety of styles, and of different materials. What are 
 known as ^'rustic" baskets, (fig. 26), are made with the 
 receptacle for the earth covered mostly with laurel roots, 
 which assume an endless variety of grotesque shapes, well 
 fitted for giving a rustic appearance to the outer covering of 
 the hanging basket. Then there are the different forms 
 of wire baskets, (fig. 27), which, when used, are lined with 
 
HANGING BASKETS. 
 
 73 
 
 moss, and being thus very open, and allowing of com- 
 plete drainage, are best suited of all for the well being of 
 the plants. A recent invention is the 
 ''Balloon" hanging basket, (fig. 28), 
 the trelhs part of which is formed of 
 strips of steel; some are so arranged as 
 to hold a common flower-pot. Many 
 beautiful forms 
 are made from 
 pottery ware, 
 colored so as to 
 imitate stumps 
 of wood and 
 other objects. 
 Thousands of 
 these baskets 
 are used in some 
 of their differ- 
 ent forms, and 
 many grow their plants in no other way, as plants are not 
 only more easily managed in these, but many varieties so 
 cultivated make a more graceful 
 growth than is possible when they 
 are in pots. In hanging baskets, 
 the fall, or Dutch bulbs, of all 
 kinds, can be grown, giving them 
 exactly the treatment recommend- 
 ed for growing in pots on page 36. 
 When hanging baskets are hung 
 on the veranda or porch in sum- 
 mer, a great quantity of water is 
 usually required, as the dry air 
 surrounding the basket on all 
 sides generally drys up the soil. 
 The simplest way of watering 
 them when dry, in summer, is to immerse the basket in a 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 RUSTIC HANGING BASKET. 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 WIEE BASKET. 
 
 Fig. 28.— BALLOON FRAME. 
 
74 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 pail or tub of water, so tliat the earth is thoroughly soaked 
 through ; how often this immerson will be necessary will 
 depend on the Aveather, the condition of the plants 
 and the quantity of earth. If the bowl of the basket is 
 full of roots, and the weather hot and dry, then once 
 each day may be necessary ; while if the weather is damp 
 and cool, it might not require watering more than once 
 a week. The rule with these as with all plants is — never 
 water unless they are dry, and then water thoroughly. 
 Just what this condition of being '^ dry" is, is not quite 
 so easy to describe ; as a rule most soils when dry become 
 lighter in color and crumble freely between the fingers, 
 and are free from the putty-like consistency they have 
 when wet. The bowls of ^'rustic" and ^^ Terra Cotta" 
 forms of hanging baskets are usually without any holes 
 for drainage ; when such is the case, the purchaser 
 should have a few holes, say one-fourth inch in diameter, 
 made in the bottom of the bowl, else there is dan- 
 ger that the earth around the roots may become satura- 
 ted with water, unless unusual care is taken in watering. 
 There is great diversity of taste displayed in the material 
 with which these baskets are filled, and no special list of 
 plants can be given that will not require to be annually 
 changed and amended as new plants are introduced. 
 When hanging baskets are wanted for use in shady rooms, 
 or on shaded verandas, mosses, (selaginellas), are used, 
 and sometimes exclusively. Then for the same condi- 
 tions. Ivies of all sorts, Cissus, Tradescantias, Sedums or 
 Stone Crops, Fittonias, Lysimachia or Moneywort, Vin- 
 cas. Ivy-leaved Geraniums, Smilax, etc., as plants to 
 droop over the sides, or to be trained to climb on the 
 trellis work or supports of the basket, while in the center 
 there are used upright plants, such as Dracaenas of sorts, 
 Caladiums, (if for summer), Marantas, Centaureas, 
 Echeverias, Ferns, Sanchezia nobilis, and other plants of 
 striking form or foliage. For baskets to be placed in the 
 
WII^DOW GARDEKIKG. 75 
 
 sun, or in good light, an entirely different class of plants 
 is needed, for with the light we get flowers. As drooping 
 13lants for the edges of these, may be named Alternan- 
 theras, Peristrophe angustifolia var., Lobelias, Tropseo- 
 lums, Mesembryanthemums, Petunias, single and double ; 
 Passifloras, Rondeletias, Torrenias, etc., while for up- 
 right or center plants, Achyranthes, Coleus, Begonias, 
 Geraniums, Zonal, double, single, and variegated leaved, 
 or any plant of not too large a growth, and which has 
 brightness of foliage or flower. If hanging baskets are 
 exposed to the full rays of the sun, or even partially so, 
 covering the surface of the soil with moss from the woods 
 will protect it from drying too quickly, and will also give 
 the basket a neater appearance. The soil used for hang- 
 ing baskets need in no way differ from that for plants 
 grown in pots. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 WINDOW GARDENING. 
 
 Window gardening during the summer months is much 
 more successful in England than with us, owing to 
 a more temperate climate, and hence is there al- 
 most universally practised. In the cities especially, 
 where space is economized by placing story upon story, 
 and the buildings are so close that there is often no 
 room for even a spear of grass to be grown, the only 
 garden that is possible is one formed in a box on the win- 
 dow-sill; this is limited in its extent, as the space afford- 
 ed is only some 4 or 5 feet in length, from 8 to 10 inches 
 wide, with a depth for the soil of about 6 inches. These 
 boxes, are made of a great variety of materials, such 
 as wood, terra cotta, iron, etc., according to the 
 
76 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 taste or means of the owner. As tlie boxes are usually 
 too high up to allow of a close examination, and the sides 
 soon become draped with dropping plants, an ordinary 
 box of pine, as in fig. 29, will answer as well as a more 
 expensive one; as it is exposed to the weather, and the 
 weight of the earth is considerable, it should be put to- 
 
 Fig. 29. — PLAIN WINDOW-BOX. 
 
 gether very firmly. Having procured the box, then let 
 a tinsmith make a lining or box of zinc that will exactly 
 fit inside of it ; this needs only a few tacks at the upper 
 edge to hold the zinc to the wood. A more expensive 
 box, (fig. 30), is made of wood, lined with zinc, and the 
 exterior covered with ornamental tiles, which are kept in 
 place by a proper molding at the margins. A box of 
 this kind may be covered with floor oil-cloth, and if a 
 proper pattern be selected, it cannot at a few yards off be 
 told from the much more costly tiles. Many of the streets 
 
 Fig. 30.— WINDOW-BOX ORNAMENTED WITH TILES. 
 
 of London and Edinburgh, during the summer months, 
 present a pleasing appearance, that cannot fail to inter- 
 est even those who have no taste for flowers. The plants 
 used are mainly such as we recommend for hanging bas- 
 kets, those designated for shady positions being used on the 
 shady sides of the streets, and those for flowering on the 
 sunny sides. These window gardens in summer produce 
 
PARLOR GARDENIiq-G. 77 
 
 the finest effect when planted with some drooping spe- 
 cies. For our climate, during the summer months, 
 when exposed to full sun, strong, yigorous-growing 
 plants must be selected, such as Tropaeolums, Petunias, 
 Passifloras, etc. While for the same position, the upright 
 plants may be double and single Geraniums, Heliotropes, 
 Mignonnette, and the like. For window boxes on the shady 
 side, use the plants recommended for hanging baskets in 
 shade. The soil may be such as is used for pots. Wa- 
 tering must be given as recommended for hanging bas- 
 kets, only in the case of the window box it would not be 
 practicable to immerse it, nor is there the same necessity 
 for doing so, as the box is less exposed than the hanging 
 basket, which is suspended and surrounded by drying 
 air upon all sides. These remarks refer to window gar- 
 dening outside of the windows, or on the outer sill. If 
 the boxes are placed inside in winter, which they may 
 be, the treatment recommended in chapter on '* Winter 
 Flowering Plants," will be applicable. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXIV. 
 
 PARLOR GARDENING, OR THE CULTIVATION OF PLANTS IN 
 ROOMS. 
 
 Parlor Gardening has to some extent been treated of 
 under the head of winter flowering plants, but a few ad- 
 ditional general directions for plants not specially de- 
 signed for winter flowering, may be acceptable. One of 
 the first conditions essential to success is to start with 
 healthy plants. Even all the professional skill of the 
 florist, with all his appliances, will often fail to get a 
 sickly plant into a healthy condition. What then can 
 
78 GARDEKII^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 the amateur florist expect to do in the often unequal 
 temperature and dry atmosphere of a sitting room or 
 parlor ? If the plants are purchased from the florist in au- 
 tumn, to grow in the house, they are likely to be healthy, 
 and are usually in a condition to shift into a pot one size 
 larger ; instructions for doing this are given in the chap- 
 ter on ^^ Winter Flowering Plants." But if the plants to 
 be cultivated in the house are such as have been growing 
 in your own flower borders, plants that were set out in 
 spring, and have now the full summer's luxuriant growth 
 still on them, then proper precaution must be taken in 
 lifting them and placing them in pots, or the result is 
 certain to be most unsatisfactory. AVhat may seem to 
 the novice a little singular, is, that the more luxuriant the 
 growth of the plant in the open border, the more danger 
 there is that it will wilt or die when lifted in the fall, and 
 placed in a pot. The reason of this is obvious, when it is 
 known that just in proportion to the top growth of a 
 plant is the wide-spread development of roots, and there- 
 fore when you lift a finely-grown Geranium or Rose in 
 October, it is next to impossible, if it is to be got into a 
 suitable sized flower-pot, to do so without such mutila- 
 tion of the young roots as will certainly kill it, if precau- 
 tion is not taken to cut off at least two-thirds of its 
 branches. If the plant is thus potted and kept as dry as 
 it will stand without actually withering, until it starts 
 growth, you may hope to have a fairly healthy specimen 
 by December, if the lifting was done in October. But 
 this practice, though often one of necessity, is never sat- 
 isfactory. If the plants that have done service in the 
 borders in summer are to be used as ornaments for the 
 parlor in fall, winter, and spring, they must have a dif- 
 ferent treatment. All plants that are intended for future 
 culture in rooms, should be potted in the usual way, 
 into 5 or 6-inch pots, when set out in May or June ; 
 these pots should be set in the flower borders, but planted 
 
PARLOR GARDENING. 79 
 
 or '' plunged," as it is called, so that the rim of the pot 
 is level with the surface of the ground. The plants will 
 flowei if so d-esired, in these pots, nearly as well as if set 
 directly in the open ground, but if wanted for flowering 
 in winter, they will bloom much better to have the flow- 
 er-buds picked off as fall approaches. It is also indispensa- 
 bly necessary that the hole in the bottom of the pot be 
 entirely stopped, so that the roots cannot get through. 
 The object being to confine the roots completely within 
 the bounds of the pot, so that when taken up in the fall 
 to be shifted into a larger pot, the roots will be undis- 
 turbed, and the plant will grow on unchecked. If this 
 is not done, and the roots find their way through the 
 bottom of the pot, there wdll be the same difficulty wdth 
 the roots as if they had not been potted. About the best 
 time to take plants in-doors in this climate is the middle 
 of October ; m colder localities, earlier, of course, and in 
 warmer, later ; always bearing in mind that the longer 
 they can be kept in the open air, provided they are safe 
 from frost, the better. Plants suited for parlor culture, 
 requiring a temperature of from 40° to 50° at night, 
 with an average of 10° or 20° higher during the day are 
 as folloAvs. These are known as greenhouse plants. For 
 descriptions see catalogues of florists and nurserymen. 
 
 Acacias, Cupheas, 
 
 Azaleas, Daphnes, 
 
 *Ae-apathiis, *Echeverias, 
 
 *AIternanthera8, Ferns, Greenhouse, 
 
 *A^aves, Feverfews, 
 
 ^Abutilons, *Fuchsias, 
 
 *Achyranthes, Geraniums— Pelarg;oniums, 
 
 Ageratums, Hoyas, (wax plant), 
 
 *Callas, HoUand Bulbs of all kinds. 
 
 Calceolarias, *Jessamines — Catalonian, 
 
 Chorizema, Jessamines— Ca^je, 
 
 Cinerarias, Ivies— parlor and hardy, 
 
 ^Carnations, *Ixoras, 
 
 Cyclamen, Lily of the Valley, 
 
 Camellias, Lobelias, 
 
80 
 
 GARDEl^Il^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 *Mesembryanthemums, (wax pink), 
 
 Mahernias, 
 
 Mimulus— Musk, 
 
 *Myrsipliyllum, or Smilax, 
 
 Oranges, 
 
 Oleanders, 
 
 Petunias, 
 
 Pinks, 
 
 *Primulas, double and single, 
 
 *Roses, 
 
 *Scutellarias, 
 
 Veronicas, 
 
 Vincas, 
 
 Violets, 
 
 Yuccas. 
 
 What are known as hot-house, or tropical plants, re- 
 quire a higher temperature than the preceeding, and 
 cannot be well grown unless with a night temperature of 
 from 60° to 70°, and a day temperature of from 10° to 
 20° higher. The following, of most of which there are 
 several yarieties, can be found described in the cata- 
 logues of dealers : 
 
 Allamandas, 
 
 Allocasias, 
 
 Begonias, 
 
 Bouvardias, 
 
 Caladiums, 
 
 Cissus, 
 
 Clerodendrons, 
 
 Cobasas, 
 
 Crotons, 
 
 Coleus, 
 
 Dracaenas, 
 
 Euphorbias, 
 
 Epipbyllums— Cactus, 
 
 Eranthemums, 
 
 Ferns, tropical, 
 
 Heliotropes, 
 
 Hibiscus, 
 
 Marantas, 
 
 Orchids, (of some kinds), 
 
 Passifloras, 
 
 Peperomias, 
 
 Poinsettia, 
 
 Salvias, 
 
 Sanchezias, 
 
 Torenias, 
 
 Tropseolums, 
 
 Tuberoses. 
 
 This matter of temperature has everything to do with 
 the successful cultivation of plants in rooms, or in fact 
 anywhere. If you attempt, for example, to grow Bou- 
 vardias or Begonias in an average tem23erature of 45° at 
 night, the plants will barely live, and will not flower, 
 nor be healthy. On the other hand, if you subject your 
 Camellias or Geraniums to an average of 65° at night by 
 fire heat m winter, you are almost certain to have the 
 flowers drop prematurely. As a rule, there are more of 
 the plants known as greenhouse that will endure the 
 
PAKLOK GAKDEKING. 
 
 81 
 
 high temperature necessary for the hot-house plants, 
 than there are of the hot-house plants that can stand 
 the low temperature, so when no distinction can be made, 
 and a high temperature only can be had, all in the list of 
 greenhouse plants I have marked with a * may be grown 
 fairly in the high temperature, though they would do 
 better in the low one. The culture of plants in rooms is 
 already described in the chapter on '^ Winter Flowering 
 Plants," so that I need not further allude to it, except 
 to hint in regard to the man- 
 ner of placing the plants. 
 One of the cheapest and neat- 
 est contrivances is the ^^ fold- 
 ing plant stand," (fig. 31). 
 The sizes are from 3 to 6 feet 
 wide, and 8 feet high, having 
 from 4 to 6 shelves, and cap- 
 able of holding from 25 to 
 100 plants. It is hinged so 
 as to fold up like a camp stool, 
 the shelves fitting in between the frames, and can be thus 
 shipped or stowed away when not wanted, with great con- 
 venience. Eollers can be attached to the feet, so that it may 
 be moved about as easily as a table. Plants, when placed 
 on this, or similar stands, may be provided with saucers, so 
 that the floor or carpet need not be injured while water- 
 ing. It is not a good plan, however, to keep water in 
 the saucers. It is always a safer way of feeding the plant 
 to water the soil on the to]3, giving only enough for it| 
 to reach the bottom, where, if any water pass through, 
 it will be held by the saucer. If no saucers are used, 
 and we think plants are generally grown more safely 
 without them, the best plan is, to take down the plants 
 from the stand, (three times a week will usually be 
 enough), to some place where the water will not do any 
 injury, and give all such as appear to be dry, a good 
 
 Fig. 31.— FOLDENG PLANT STAND. 
 
82 GAKDEKIl^G FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 soaking ; those not so dry, water more sparingly, and give 
 those in which the soil shows that it is wet, none what- 
 ever. Let the water drain off, pick off any dead leaves, 
 and replace the pots again on the stand, being careful to 
 change them as far as possible, so that each side of the 
 plant may get its fair share of light ; if the same part is 
 always placed to the light, the plant will soon become 
 drawn to one side. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 WARDIAN CASES, FERNERIES, AND JARDINIERES. 
 
 The forms of plant cases for the growth of such 'plants 
 as require a moist, still atmosphere, a condition impossi- 
 ble to obtain in a room in a dwelling-house, nor even in 
 a greenhouse, unless it is specially 
 erected for the purpose, are numer- 
 ous. The form commonly known 
 as the Wardian Case, (fig. 32), has 
 a base or tray usually of black wal- 
 nut, about 6 inches deep, and lined 
 with zinc, and glass sides and top ; 
 these differ in size, some being as 
 large as 3 feet on the sides. Another 
 neat and cheaper form is made of 
 Terra Cotta, (fig. 33), or other 
 earthen ware ; these are usually 
 round in shape, and of various '^^^- 33.— wardian case. 
 sizes, from 9 to 18 inches in diameter. In all these the 
 plants must be covered with glass ; in the Wardian Case 
 there is glass all around the sides and top, the top being 
 hinged to allow the escape of excess of moisture. In the 
 Jardinieres, or circular form, the plants are covered by a 
 
WAEDIAK CASES, FEENERIES, AND JARDINIERES. 83 
 
 bell-glass which is tilted up a little at the side, when 
 there is an appearance of excess of moisture. This con- 
 dition of excess is known by the glass becoming dimmed 
 by moisture, and the water trickling down the side. 
 Usually when this appearance is seen, by raising the glass 
 lid of the Wardian Case an 
 inch or so for a day, it will 
 relieve it enough to enable it 
 to be kept close, which is the 
 proper way to keep it for the 
 well being of the plants. The 
 plants grown in this way are 
 of kinds valued for their 
 beauty of foliage, rather than 
 for their flowers, and should 
 be such as are rather of a 
 slow growth ; all rampant 
 growing plants, such as Co- 
 leus, are unsuited. The 
 effectiveness of these cases depend a great deal on the 
 arrangement of the plants ; the tallest and most conspic- 
 uous things should be in the center, with smaller ones 
 towards the edges, varying the interest by contrasting the 
 different colorings and forms of leaves. Among the 
 plants best suited for growing under these glass coverings, 
 are Dracaenas, Gjrmnostachyums, Marantas, Caladiums, 
 some of the ornamental leaved Eranthemums, and dwarf 
 growing Begonias, Peperomias, etc., and Ferns and Lyco- 
 pods of the finer sorts. The most of these are plants 
 whose natural habitat is shady woods or marshes ; and 
 for their well being, the nearest that the Wardian Case or 
 Jardiniere can be made to imitate such, the better. 
 
 The soil used in these cases should be light and porous. 
 The most convenient, and a very suitable material, is the 
 leaf-mold, which can be got in any piece of woodland. 
 After planting, the soil should be watered freely, so that 
 
 6'6. — FEKNERr WITH GLASS 
 SHADE. 
 
84 GAEDEI^IIS'G FOE PLEASUKE. 
 
 it is settled around the roots. And to allow evaporation, 
 ventilation should be given for a few days after the water- 
 ing, when the glass may be p.ut down close, only to be 
 opened as before directed, when an excess of moisture 
 shows on the glass. Other than this there is no trouble 
 whatever in the management ; the watering given on 
 planting will be sufficient to keep it moist enough for 6 
 or 8 weeks. In winter the temperature of the roona in 
 which the Wardian case or fernery is kept may run from 
 50° to 70° at night. These closed cases of either kind 
 may be used for growing Hyacinths in winter if de- 
 sired, for which they are particularly well adapted ; 
 only, that when brought into the room to flower, the 
 cases will require daily ventilation. After planting the 
 Hyacinths in the cases, however, it must not be forgot- 
 ten that they must be kept in a cool, dark place, until 
 they root, just as when they are grown in pots, or glasses. 
 For further instructions on this head see Hyacinths. 
 Lily of the Valley can also be grown finely in a Wardian 
 case ; but as it requires some special treatment, we give 
 it in a separate chapter. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 WINTEE rOECING THE LILT OE THE VALLEl. 
 
 Within the past three years the fashion for the flowers 
 of Lily of the Valley has increased to such an extent, that 
 though the importation of roots has probably trebled 
 each year, the price of the flower is still quite as high as 
 when the forcing first begun. The failures which attend 
 the winter flowering of this plant are mainly owing to 
 the use of improperly developed roots. As with other 
 
WINTEE FOKCING THE LILY OF THE VALLEY. 
 
 85 
 
 similar plants, a certain size or development of the crown, 
 or underground bud, is essential to produce the flower. 
 What that size should be, is not, even with the most ex- 
 perienced, always easy to determine. In the Tuberose, 
 the Japan, and some other Lilies, we find that bulbs that 
 are less than an inch in diameter, are not certain to 
 
 Fig. 34.— LILT OF THE VALLEY BUD — GOOD. 
 
 flower. The crown, or ^^pip," as florists sometimes call 
 it, of the Lily of the Valley, when sufficiently developed 
 to flower, should be of the size and shape shown in fig. 
 
 34. Those too small to flower are like that shown in fig. 
 
 35. But these rules as to size and shape are not given as 
 certain, for few have had experience enough to say with 
 accuracy at what size the crown of the Lily of the Valley 
 will }iot flower, although we may say with some certainty, 
 if the crown is large, that it will do so. It is the want 
 of this knowledge that, in my opinion, has made the 
 
86 GAKDEKING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 flowering of the Lily of the Valley so uncertain when 
 forced. As in forcing the Hyacinth, and other similar 
 bulbs, crowns of the Lily of the Valley should be covered 
 up outside for a few weeks, before being brought into 
 the greenhouse or house to force. Those we flower are 
 put in about the middle of November, packed closely to- 
 gether in light, rich soil, in boxes three inches deep. 
 These are covered up outside with hay until the first of 
 
 ir 
 Fig. 35. — ^LiLT or the vallet bud— poor. 
 
 January ; they are then brought into a greenhouse, facing 
 north, where there is no direct sunlight at that season. 
 The temperature is kept at about 70°, with a moist at- 
 mosphere, and by the first of February they are in full 
 flower. The Lily of the Valley could be grown finely in 
 a Wardian case, as it would there get the proper light, 
 with the necessary damp atmosphere. When grown in 
 greenhouses, exposed to sunlight, it is necessary to shade 
 
GREENHO'tJSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 87 
 
 the glass very heavily. When the flowers are ahout to 
 open, they should then have light to give the leaves a 
 healthy green color. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIT. 
 
 GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 
 
 The taste engendered hy growing plants in rooms often 
 results in a desire to have more appropriate quarters for 
 the plants, and a greenhouse follows. This always affords 
 the most satisfaction when it is so attached to the dwell- 
 ing that opening a door or window from the dining- 
 room or parlor, reveals the glories of the greenhouse. 
 The greenhouse, when attached to the dwelling, should be 
 always on the east, south-east, south, or south-west sides, 
 never on the north. It may he of any length or width 
 desired. If of ten feet width, it will cost for erec- 
 tion from $4 to $6 per running foot, according to the 
 character of the work. If 20 feet wide, from 18 to $10 
 per running foot. This is exclusive of heating, which, if 
 done by hot- water pipes^ will cost for 10 feet wide, about 
 $4 per running foot ; if 20 feet wide, about 18 per 
 running foot. Thus to complete a conservatory, with 
 heating apparatus, shelves, etc., 10 feet wide by 40 
 feet long, it would cost about $400; if 20 x 40 feet, 
 about 1800. In this estimate it is assumed that the heat- 
 ing is to be done by the Base Burning Water-heater, 
 of Hitchings & Co. This heating apparatus is of recent 
 invention, and is exceedingly well adapted for the pur- 
 pose, as the fire requires no more attention than any 
 ordinary base burning stoves. The boiler takes up no 
 more room than an ordinary stove, and requires no set- 
 
88 
 
 GAKDENING FOR PLEASUKE. 
 
 ting; it i$ shown in fig. 36, and in section in fig. 37. It is 
 fed by coal from the top, and can be left with safety 10 
 or 12 hours without any attention. It must be borne in 
 mind that in constructing the conservatory it must be 
 built where a chimney is accessible by which to carry off 
 the smoke from the boiler or water heater, just as would 
 
 Fig. 36.— BISE-BUKNER, Fig. 37.— SECTION. 
 
 be necessary for an ordinary stove. If the green- 
 house is small enough to be heated from a register from 
 the furnace that heats the dwelHng, much of the cost 
 may be saved, as it will be seen that nearly half of the 
 cost of construction is the heating apparatus. Figure 
 38 shows a front elevation of a conservatory suitable to 
 
GREENHOUSES ATTACHED TO DWELLINGS. 
 
 89 
 
 ig- 
 
 -IB it — .— — _ , , 
 
 -ELEVATION OF CONSERVATORY ATTACHED TO DWELLING. 
 
 Fig. 39.— GROUND PLAN 01? CONSERVATORY, FIG. 38. 
 
90 GARDEITING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 attach to dwellings ; this is 16 feet wide and 30 feet in 
 length. Its ground plan showing the arrangement of the 
 benches and walks, is given in fig. 39. Such a structure 
 in every way complete, heated with Hitchings Base Burn- 
 ing water-heater, should not exceed 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 A DETACHED GREENHOUSE OR GRAPERY. 
 
 In cases where more extended glass structures are de- 
 sired, they are better if detached from the dwelling. 
 The structure now given in figs. 40 and 41 is called a 
 curvilinear span-roofed house, 100 feet in length by 20 in 
 width ; fig. 40 shows the end view and plan, and fig. 41 
 gives sufficient of the elevation to show the end and a 
 part of the side. The ends should face north and south, 
 so that the distribution of the sun's rays will be equal on 
 each side. Of course there is nothing arbitrary in the size, 
 it may be made 50, 75, or 100 feet in length, or 20 to 25 
 feet in wddth as desired, and may be used either for the 
 purposes of a vinery for the growing of foreign grapes, or 
 for a conservatory as desired. All the walling from the 
 surface of the ground to the glass of a greenhouse, had 
 better be made of wood, unless the walls are made very 
 thick when built of brick or stone ; the continued warfare 
 in winter between a zero temperature outside, and 60° to 
 70° inside, will in a year or two destroy brick or stone 
 walls. When the walls are formed of wood, the best way 
 is to place locust posts at distances of four feet apart, 
 and nail to these a sheathing of boards ; against the 
 boards tack asphaltum or tarred paper, and again against 
 that, place the weather-boarding. This forms a wall 
 
A DETACHED GREENHOUSE OR GRAPERY. 91 
 
 o ©c o 
 
 SCALE' 
 
 oooo 
 
 Fig. 40.— END-YIEW AND PLAN OF DETACHED GBEENHOUSE OB GBAPERT. 
 
92 
 
 GARDEinNG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 Fig. 41.— ELEVATION (iN PART) OF DETACHED GBEENHOUSE OR GRAPERY. 
 
A DETACHED GREENHOUSE OR GRAPERY. 93 
 
 which, if kept painted, will last for 50 years, and is 
 equally warm as a 12-incli brick wall, and costs less than 
 half. We have had just such a structure in use for the 
 past five years as a cold vinery, that is having- no heating 
 apparatus, the forwarding being done only by the action 
 of the sun on the glass, and it has proved a cheap and 
 satisfactory luxury. A conservatory or grapery of this 
 style costs from $10 to $15 per running foot, without 
 heating apparatus. Heated by hot water, it would cost 
 $20 to 130 per running foot. If heated by a horizontal flue 
 in the manner here described, the cost will be only about 
 $15 per running foot. Any good bricklayer should be able 
 to build a smoke-flue from the following instructions. Let 
 the bars for the grate be, (if for a glass surface of say 500 
 square feet), 2 feet in length and about 10 inches in 
 width ; or in the proportion of about one-half a square 
 inch of grate surface to one square foot of glass. 
 
 Most masons of any experience know how to build a 
 greenhouse flue, but there are a few important points, the 
 knowledge of which is absolutely necessary to complete 
 success. First, the furnace pit, if not naturally dry, 
 must be made so by draining. After setting the grate- 
 bars in the usual way by resting them on an iron |)late, 
 let into the brick work at front and back, the sides of 
 the furnace should be built with fire-brick and fire clay 
 if at all procurable, to the hight of from 10 to 20 inches, 
 according to size wanted. On these walls an arch is 
 turned over to cover the furnace; the ^'neck" of the 
 furnace rising at a sharp angle for from 2 to 4 feet until 
 it is run into the horizontal smoke-flue. The flue must 
 be raised from the ground an inch or two on bricks or 
 flagging. This costs perhaps a third more in building, 
 but it allows all sides of the flue to give off heat. The 
 cheapest and simplest form of flue is made after the bot- 
 tom is formed by bricks or flagging ; brick is best near 
 the furnace, as flagging would crack. Place two bricks 
 
94 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 on edge, the top being covered by a brick laid flat ; this 
 is the smallest size of flue. Larger grate surface will re- 
 quire correspondingly greater hight and breadth. Flues 
 are now commonly made by using cement or vitrified 
 drain pipe, to connect with the brick flue, at from 25 to 
 40 feet from the furnace, the pipe not being safe to use 
 near the furnace, as the greater heat would be likely to 
 crack it. A flue, to get the full benefit of the fuel, should 
 be so arranged that it goes all around the greenhouse, the 
 base of the chimney being the top of the furnace. The 
 advantage of this plan, (fig. 42), which has only recent- 
 ly had general publicity, is that the excessive heat given 
 out from the top of the furnace, drives back the cold air 
 that would otherwise pass down the chimney ; not only 
 
 . 100 FEET 
 
 FRONT BENCH 4 FEET WIDE 
 
 WALK 2 FEET WIDE. 
 
 FRONT BENCH hURNACfc ^ FEET WIDE 
 
 i^ig. 4;^.— PLAN OF GREENHOUSE HEATED BY DOUBLE FLUES. 
 
 drives it back, but passing rapidly out, *' draws " to it the 
 heated air that has to pass through the length of the 
 horizontal flue, causing it to circulate so rapidly that all 
 parts of the flue become nearly equally heated. In the 
 case represented in fig. 42, the greenhouse so heated 
 is 20 feet wide by 100 feet long, having a glass sur- 
 face of over 2,500 square feet, a size utterly impossi- 
 ble to heat with a flue unless so constructed that the base 
 of the chimney stands on the top of the furnace. It will 
 be seen by the plan that there are two flues running from 
 one furnace, and entering into one chimney. I only il- 
 lustrate this to show the power given by this method. 
 It would do quite as well, if the house was half or 
 quarter the size, to have it done by one flue instead of 
 the two. I would here say emphatically that no matter 
 
HEATING BY HOT WATEK. 95 
 
 what size a flue may be, and whether single or double, it 
 should in every case be made on the principle of being 
 carried all around the building until it enters the upright 
 chimney built on the top of the furnace. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 HEATING BY HOT WATER. 
 
 Although we describe flues as a means of heating green- 
 houses or graperies, they should be used only on the score 
 of economy ; whenever one can afford to have the heat- 
 ing done in the best manner, by all means let it be 
 done by hot water. The hot-water apparatus requires 
 less attention than flues, and its management is so simple 
 that any one able to take care of an ordinary stove or 
 furnace can take charge of a boiler for heating the water 
 in the pipes of a greenhouse. Besides, there is no danger 
 from smoke or gas, and but little risk from fire. Inside 
 the greenhouse there is no danger from fire ; if they are 
 filled with water the pipes cannot be made hot enough to 
 ignite the most combustible substances that may come in 
 contact with them. With the smoke flue it is very dif- 
 ferent, dry wood or other combustible material will ignite 
 if allowed to touch the brick, anywhere within 20 to 40 
 feet of the furnace. There are a great many patterns of 
 boilers, and to recommend one more than another may 
 seem invidious ; still we have had in use quite a number 
 of different styles, and have found that, as far as our 
 experience with them has gone, those made by Hitchings 
 & Co., of 'New York, everything considered, have been 
 most satisfactory. We have several of these boilers in 
 use that have not cost a dollar for repair in ten years. 
 
96 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 
 
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 1 
 
 
 Fig. 43. -PLAN OF HOT-HOUSE AND GREENHOUSE COMBINED. 
 
HEATIKG BY HOT WATER. 
 
 97 
 
 Fig. 44. — -FKO-TIEW OF FIG. 43, 
 AT BOILER PIT. 
 
 Figure 43 gives the ground plan of a combined hot-house 
 and greenhouse, each 20 feet wide and 50 feet long, show- 
 ing the disposition of the boiler and pipes. If this 
 plan were shown in full on the page, the width would 
 be quite too small, there- 
 fore a portion of the length 
 is left out of each compart- 
 ment, as shown by the ir- 
 regular lines; everything is 
 given in proper proportion 
 except the length, and that 
 is stated in figures. The 
 number of pipes indicated, 
 (10), is sufficient to give a g 
 temperature of from 60° to 
 70° at night for the hot- 
 house, and the number given in the greenhouse, (6), is 
 such as will keep that compartment at from 40° to 50° 
 in the coldest weather. A sectional view at the end where 
 
 the boiler pit is placed is 
 given in fig. 44, and an- 
 other sectional view at 
 the partition between the 
 greenhouse and hot-house 
 is shown in fig. 45.. The 
 cost of such a structure 
 complete for the reception 
 of plants, would vary ac- 
 cording to location, and 
 the style of finish; in the vicinity of :N"ew York at pres- 
 ent prices, such a combined hot-house and greenhouse, 
 20x100, erected in a substantial manner, would cost 
 about 13,000. 
 
 Fig. 45.— END-VIEW OF FIG. 43, AT 
 
 PARTITION BETWEEN THE TWO 
 
 HOUSES. 
 
98 GARDEKIiTG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXX. 
 
 GREENHOUSES OR PITS, WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEATING. 
 
 The directions given for heating greenhouses by hot 
 water or by flues, apply of course only to sections of the 
 country where the temperature during the winter months 
 makes heating a necessity. In many of the southern 
 states there is no need of artificial heat. A greenhouse 
 tightly glazed and placed against a building where it is 
 sheltered from the north and north-west will keep out 
 frost when the temperature does not fall lower than 25 
 degrees above zero, and if light wooden shutters are used 
 to coyer the glass, all those classed as *^ greenhouse" 
 plants will be safe eyen at 10 |ip^^raiiiii|^==^,^^ 
 degrees lower, provided, of Jj|i ''"'^^^^^^^^^^^^^^5^^ 
 course, that the conservatory ^ 
 is attached to the dwelling, j^ 
 as shown in fiof. 38. Another M 
 cheap and simple method | 
 of keeping plants during ^^V\^^^^ To - 
 
 winter in mild latitudes is by ^^S'- ^6. -si^^ken pit. 
 
 the use of the sunken pit or deep frame, which affords 
 the needed protection even more completely than the eleva- 
 ted greenhouse. This is formed by excavating the soil to 
 the depth of from 18 to 36 inches, according to the size 
 of the plants it is intended to contain. A convenient 
 width is 6 feet, the ordinary length of a hot-bed sash, 
 and of such length as may be desired. Great care must 
 be taken that the ground is such that no water will stand 
 in the pit ; if the soil is moist it should be drained. The 
 sides of the pit may be either walled up by a 4 or 8-inch 
 course of brick work, or planked up as may be preferred, 
 but in either case the hach wall should be raised about 
 eighteen inches, and the front about six inches above the 
 
COMBII^ED CELLAR A2^D GREEI^HOUSE. 99 
 
 surface, in order to give the necessary slope to receive the 
 sun's rays and to shed the water. A section of such a 
 pit is shown in fig. 46. If a pit of this kind is made in 
 a dry and sheltered j)osition, and the glass covered by 
 light shutters of half-inch boards, it may be used to keep 
 all the hardier class of greenhouse plants, even in locali- 
 ties where the thermometer falls to zero. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 COMBINED CELLAR AND GREENHOUSE. 
 
 In connection with the description of the cold pit or 
 greenhouse without fire heat, may be mentioned the com- 
 bined cellar and greenhouse. Many years ago an acci- 
 dental circumstance gave me an opportunity of testing 
 the utility of such a structure. An excavation of 20 feet 
 by 40 had been made 7 feet deep, and walled up with 
 stone and beams laid across preparatory to placing a 
 building upon it, when the owner changed his plans and 
 found himself with this useless excavation within a dozen 
 yards of his costly residence. There seemed to be no al- 
 ternative but to fill it up or plank it over, but both ^^lans 
 were objectionable, and in discussing how to get out of 
 the difficulty, I suggested erecting a low-roofed green- 
 house over it, as the owner had a taste for cultivating 
 plants. This suggestion was followed, and the walls were 
 raised one foot above the surface and a span-roofed green- 
 house erected over it. 
 
 My idea, (which was found to be nearly correct), was, 
 that the large volume of air in the excavation would at 
 no season go below 40°, and be sufficient to keep the up- 
 per or greenhouse portion of the structure above the 
 
100 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 freezing point in the coldest weather. This it did com- 
 pletely when the glass was covered at night with shut- 
 ters ; and the plants with which it was filled, of a kind 
 requiring a low temperature, kept in better health than 
 if they had been grown in a greenhouse haying fire heat. 
 
 Xow, although I have never seen such a combination 
 since, I am satisfied that in favorable circumstances such 
 a structure might be made of great utility and at a 
 trifling cost, for as it dispenses with heating apparatus, 
 which usually is more than half of the whole cost in all 
 greenhouses, the use of a cellar and greenhouse could be 
 had at probably less than the cost of an ordinary green- 
 house ; and for half hardy plants^ — plants that will do 
 well in winter if kept only above the freezing point — such 
 a greenhouse will be better for many of them than any 
 kind of greenhouse heated by fire heat. All kinds of 
 Eoses, Camellias, Azaleas, Zonal Geraniums, Violets, 
 Cape Jessamines, Carnations, Abutilons, Verbenas, Prim- 
 ulas, Stevias, and, in short, all plants known as cool 
 greenhouse plants, will keep in a healthy, though nearly 
 dormant condition, during the winter months, but they 
 will flourish with greatly increased vigor at their natural 
 season of growth, and flowering as spring advances. Be- 
 sides, the cellar may be used for the ordinary ]3urposes of 
 such a place ; or if exclusively for horticultural purposes, 
 no better place can be had for keeping all deciduous 
 hardy or half hardy plants. Hyacinths in pots to start to 
 flower, or any bulbs of similar nature. The great point 
 to be observed is that the soil where such a structure is 
 to be erected is entirely free from water, or if not so nat- 
 urally, must be made entirely dry by draining. 
 
 The style that I think would suit best for general pur- 
 poses would be twelve feet in width, and of any length 
 desired. The excavation should not be less than seven 
 feet deep, walled up to about one foot above the surface. 
 When complete it would show something like the section 
 
COMBINED CELLAR AND GREENHOUSE. 101 
 
 in fig. 47. If the glass roof is made fixed it should have 
 ventilating sashes 3x3, at intervals of six or nine feet on 
 each side of the roof ; if of sashes, they should be seven 
 feet long by three feet wide, every alternate one being 
 arranged to move for ventilation in the usual way. The 
 position of the structure would be best with its ends north 
 
 Fig. 47.— GEEENHOUSE AJSB CELLAH COMBINED. 
 
 and south. The shutters for covering the glass at night 
 should be made of light half-inch pine boards, three feet 
 wide by seven feet long. 
 
 It will be understood that the advantage of this com- 
 bination of cellar and greenhouse over the ordinary cold 
 pit is that the air of the greenhouse is warmed or equal- 
 ized by mixing with the atmosphere of the cellar, which 
 will rarely be less than 40°. Eor the same reason, if a 
 high temperature by fire heat were wanted, say 70°, this 
 large body of air from below of 40° would make it diffi- 
 cult to obtain it. It will be necessary, of course, to have 
 the flooring boards covering the cellar wide enough apart 
 to freely allow the passage of the air; this will at the same 
 time give light enough for any operations necessary to be 
 done in the cellar. 
 
102 GAEDEiTIKG FOR PLEA8UEE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIL 
 
 HOT-BEDS. 
 
 The sunken pit described on page 98 may be readily 
 converted into a hot-bed ; all that is necessary to do be- 
 ing to place hot manure or other heating material in the 
 pit and tread it moderately firm with the feet. The ma- 
 nure should fill the pit to the depth of two feet, and then 
 be covered with five or six inches of light rich soil, on 
 which to sow the seed. This sunken pit prevents the 
 escape of heat from the manure much better than when 
 the hot-bed is made on the surface in the usual way. 
 The preparation of the heating material for the hot-bed 
 requires some attention. It should be manure fresh from 
 the horse-stable, and when they can be procured, it is 
 better to mix it with about an equal bulk of leaves from 
 the woods. If the weather is very cold, the bulk of ma- 
 nure must be of good size, from five to six wagon loads, 
 thrown in a compact conical heap, else the mass may be 
 so chilled that fermentation cannot take place and no 
 heat generated. If a shed is convenient, the manure 
 may be placed there, especially if the quantity is small, 
 to be protected from cold until the heat begins to rise. 
 The heap should be turned and well broken up before 
 being used for the hot-beds, so that the rank steam may 
 escape and the manure become of the proper *' sweet- 
 ened" condition for the healthy germination of the seeds. 
 After the manure has been packed in the pit to the depth 
 and in the manner described, the sashes should be placed 
 on the frame and kept close until the heat is again gen- 
 erated in the hot-bed. Now plunge a thermometer into 
 the manure, and if all is right it will indicate 100 degrees 
 or more, but this is yet too hot as bottom heat for the 
 growth of seeds or plants, and a few days of delay must 
 
HOT-BEDS. 103 
 
 be allowed until the thermometer indicates a falling of 
 10 or 15 degrees, then the soil may be placed upon the 
 manure and the seeds sown, or plants set out in the hot- 
 bed. Amateurs are apt to be impatient in the matter of 
 hot-beds, and often lose their first crop by sowing or 
 planting before the first violent heat has subsided. An- 
 other very common mistake is, in beginning too early in 
 the season. In this latitude nothing is gained by begin- 
 ning before the first week in March, and the result will 
 be very nearly as good if not begun until a month later. 
 There are two or three important matters to bear in 
 mind in the use of hot-beds. It is indispensable for 
 safety to cover the glass at night with shutters or mats 
 until all danger of frost is over, for it must be remem- 
 bered that the contents of a hot-bed are always tender 
 from being forced so rapidly by the heat below, and that 
 the slightest frost will kill them. Again, there is danger 
 of overheating in day-time by a neglect to ventilate when 
 the sun is shining. As a general rule it will be safe in 
 all the average days of March, April, and May, to have 
 the sash in the hot-bed tilted up from an inch to three 
 inches at the back from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Much will, 
 of course, depend upon the activity of the heating ma- 
 terial in the hot-bed, the warmth of the weather, and the 
 character of the plants in the bed ; so that we can only 
 give a loose general rule. Numbers of our amateur 
 friends come to us every season lamenting that them- 
 selves or their men in charge had omitted to ventilate 
 their hot-bed, and on their return home from business at 
 night, found all the contents had been '^ boiled" up. 
 Or the complaint may be on the other extreme, that the 
 plants are frozen through neglect to cover them at night. 
 A hot-bed requires a certain amount of attention, which 
 must be given at the right time, or failure is certain. 
 
104 GARDEJSrii^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 SHRUBS, CLIMBERS, AND TREES. 
 
 A place is seldom so small that a few choice shrubs 
 cannot appropriately find room^ and in which climbers 
 are not desirable, while in the larger places these become 
 important to its proper ornamentation. "Whether its size 
 admits of the use of trees or not, both deciduous and 
 evergreen shrubs, climbers as well as evergreen trees of 
 low growth, are indispensable. We here append a list of 
 the leading kinds in each class, but which by no means 
 exhausts the number of desirable varieties ; for the oth- 
 ers reference may be made to the catalogues of the prin- 
 cipal nurseries, where also will be found descriptions of 
 those here named. 
 
 HAHDT DECIDUOUS SHBUBS. 
 
 Amygdalus nanafl. pi Flowering Almond. 
 
 jEsculusparviflora Dwarf Horsecliestnut. 
 
 Berberis vulgaris — Barberry. 
 
 " " var. purpurea Purple Barberry. 
 
 Calycanthus floridus Sweet-scented Shrub. 
 
 Chionanthus Virginica Fringe Tree. 
 
 Cytisus elongatus Laburnum. 
 
 Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Cotoneaster. 
 
 Cratcegus Pyracantha Pyracanth Thorn. 
 
 " oxyacanthafl. pi Hawthorn double white. 
 
 " " coccineafl.pl " " Scarlet. 
 
 Clethra alnifolia , White Alder. 
 
 Deutzia scabra Rough Deutzia. 
 
 " crenatafl. pi Double " 
 
 " gracilis Slender " 
 
 Euonymus atrop^irpureus Burning Bush. 
 
 " latifolius Broad-leaved do. 
 
 Forsythia viridisslma Golden Bell. 
 
 Halesia tetraptera Silver *' 
 
 Hibiscus Syriacusfl. pi Rose of Sharon, double. 
 
 Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Great-panicled Hydrangea. 
 
 " Hortensia Common " 
 
 " Japonica Japan ' ' 
 
 Kerria Japonica Japan Globe-flower. 
 
 Lonicera Tartarica Tartarian Honeysuckle. 
 
SHEUBS, CLIMBEKS, AKD TEEES. 105 
 
 Magnolia glauca Sweet Bay Magnolia. 
 
 " coiispkua Tulan Tree. 
 
 * ' Soulangeana Soulanges' Magnolia. 
 
 PhUadelplms coro)iaritcs Mock Orange. 
 
 " nanus " " Dwarf. 
 
 Eibes aurmm Missouri Currant. 
 
 " Oordonianum Gordon's " 
 
 Syringa vulgaris Common Lilac. 
 
 " " alba White " 
 
 " Ih'sica Persian " 
 
 " " alba " " White. 
 
 Spircea prunifolia jl. pi Plum-leaved Spiraea. 
 
 " callosa and var. alba Flat-topped " 
 
 " Beevesii Jl. pi Lance-leaved " 
 
 *' Douglasii Douglas' " 
 
 " hypericifolia St. Peter's Wreath. 
 
 Viburnum Opulus Snowball. 
 
 *' plicatum Dwarf Snowball. 
 
 Wdgela rosea Bush-Honeysuckle, Rose. 
 
 " '' fol.var " " Variegated. 
 
 " nivea " *' White. 
 
 " amabalis " " Lovely. 
 
 " Deboisianna " " Debois'. 
 
 Azalea Ibiitica^ hybrids Belgian Azaleas. 
 
 Cercis Japonica Japan Judas Tree. 
 
 Pynis Japonica Japan Quince. 
 
 Ptnmus triloba Flowering Plum. 
 
 Stuartia pentagynia Stuartia. 
 
 Symphoi-icarpus racemosus Snowberry. 
 
 HABDT EVEEGKEEN SHEUBS. 
 
 Androineda floHbu7ida Free-flowering Andomeda, 
 
 Buxus sempervirens arborea Tree-Box. 
 
 Biota orientalis Eastern Arbor- Vitae. 
 
 Cephalotaxus Fortunii 
 
 Daphne Cneorum Garland Flower. 
 
 Ilex opaca American Holly, 
 
 Juniperus communis var. Suecica Sweedish Juniper. 
 
 " " *' JBibernica Irish *' 
 
 " oblonga pendvla Weeping " 
 
 " squamata .• Scaled Juniper. 
 
 " pi'ostrata Prostrate " 
 
 Kahnia latifoUa American Laurel. 
 
 Ibdocarpus Japonica Japan Tew. 
 
 Betinispora obtusa Obtuse-leaved Retinispora. 
 
 *' plumosa aurea Golden-plumed " 
 
 Bhododendron Catawbiense, hybrids Rhododrendons. 
 
106 GAEDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 Taxm haccata, var. Canadeiisis American Yew. 
 
 *' " " erecta Upright " 
 
 Thuja occidentalis American Arbor-Titae. 
 
 " " var. SiUrica Siberian " " 
 
 " " '* plicata Plicate " " 
 
 " " *' nana Dwarf " '* 
 
 HAEDT EVERGREEN TREES OF MEDIUM SIZE. 
 
 Ahks Canadensis Hemlock Spruce. 
 
 '* " var. Sargenti Sargent's " 
 
 " excelsa Norway " 
 
 •* " var. Oregoryana Gregory's " 
 
 ti u it pygmcea Dwarf " 
 
 " " *' inverta Inverted «* 
 
 " nigra pumila Dwarf Black Spruce. 
 
 *' Fraseri var. Hudsonica Hudson's Bay Fir. 
 
 " pectinata European Silver Fir. 
 
 " " var. fastigiata Erect *' " 
 
 " Pichta Siberian " *♦ 
 
 Juniperus Virginiana Red Cedar. 
 
 J^nus Strobus White Pine. 
 
 " Cembra Swiss Stone Pine. 
 
 *' pumilio , Dwarf Pine. 
 
 " Austriaca Austrian " 
 
 HARDY CLIMBERS. 
 
 Ampelopsis quinquefolia Virginia Creeper. 
 
 ' ' tricuspidata, ( Vietchii) Vietch ' s " 
 
 AJcebia quinata Akebia. 
 
 Aristolochia Sipho Dutchman's Pipe. 
 
 Bignonia grandiflora Large-flowered Tnimpet vine 
 
 Clematis Flammula Virgin's Bower. 
 
 " Viiicella " *' 
 
 " azurea, and the various hybrids. 
 
 Eedera Helix European Ivy. 
 
 This in its many varieties is scarcely hardy at New York. 
 
 Lonicera sempervirens Trumpet Honeysuckle. 
 
 " Japonica Japan " 
 
 " " var. aurea Golden " 
 
 " Periclymenum English Woodbine. 
 
 " " var. Belgica Dutch Honeysuckle. 
 
 " Hallii Hall's '* 
 
 Tecoma radicans Trumpet Creeper. 
 
 Wistaria frutescens American Wistaria. 
 
 " Sine7isis Chinese " 
 
 *' " var. alba White " 
 
 " " " Allenii Allen's " 
 
 ** magnijlca Magnificent " 
 
HAKDT HERBACEOUS PEREKHIALS. 107 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIY. 
 
 HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 
 
 Herbaceous perennials include those hardy plants, the 
 stems of which die down at the approach of winter, or 
 earlier if they have completed their growth ; the roots 
 being hardy, they remain in the same place for several 
 years in succession. Plants of this class were formerly 
 more popular than they have been of late years, the taste 
 for brilliant bedding effects having caused these former 
 favorites to be neglected. Recently the taste for peren- 
 nials has revived, and while they cannot serve as substi- 
 tutes for what are known as bedding ^^lants, they are ex- 
 ceedingly useful for those who wish to have flowers with 
 but little trouble, as most of them can remain for three 
 or four years without requiring any other care than to 
 keep them clear of weeds. When the clumps become too 
 large they require to be lifted, divided, and re-set in fresh 
 soil. For the best results it is advisable to re-set most of 
 them every third year, while some may remain in place 
 indefinitely, taking care to give them a yearly manuring, 
 as the vigorous growing ones soon exhaust the soil imme- 
 diately around them. In setting out these plants, the 
 taller growing kinds should be pla,ced at the rear of the 
 border, or in the center if the bed is to be seen from both 
 sides, while those of the lowest growth are to be placed 
 at the edge, and those of intermediate size are to be 
 placed between. A proper selection of these plants will 
 give a succession from early spring until frost stops all 
 bloom. Many of these perennials are unchanged from 
 their natural state, but bloom in our borders just as they 
 appeared in their native woods and hills in different parts 
 of the world, and seem to show no disposition ta " break ^' 
 
108 GAEDENING rOK PLEASUEE. 
 
 or deviate from their normal form, notwithstanding they 
 have been in cultivation for a century or two. On the 
 other hand many have, by sporting, or by hybridizing, 
 and crossing, as in the case of pasonies, j)hioxes, irises, 
 and others, produced many florists varieties, which show 
 forms and colors not found in the native state of the 
 plants, and the frequent occurrence of double flowers 
 among them shows that cultivation has not been without 
 its influence. 
 
 With such a number to select from, it is difficult to 
 make a list of 25, or even 50, and not leave out many de- 
 sirable kinds. Those in the following list are all of gen- 
 erally admitted excellence, and are usually to be obtained 
 from florists and nurserymen. 
 
 It may be added here that there is no part of the coun- 
 try which does not afford wild flowers of sufficient beauty 
 to merit a place in the garden, and most of them, except 
 perhaps those which naturally grow in a deep shade, will 
 grow larger and bloom finer in a rich border than in their 
 native localities. 
 
 Perennials are propagated by division of the clumps, 
 by cuttings of the stems, and sometimes of the roots, 
 and by seeds. In many cases the seeds are very slow of 
 germination unless sown as soon as ripe. As most of 
 them do not bloom until the seedlings have made one 
 year's growth, the seeds should be sown in a reserve bed, 
 from which at the end of the first summer, or in the fol- 
 lowing spring, they may l^e transplanted to the place 
 where they are to flow^er. It is w^ell to give the seedlings 
 some protection the first winter, not because they are not 
 hardy, but to prevent them from being thrown out of the 
 soil by frequent freezing and thawing. A covering of 
 evergreen boughs is most suitable, but if these are not at 
 hand, use coarse hay or other litter, first laying down 
 some brush, to keep the covering from matting down 
 upon them. 
 
HAEDY HERBACEOUS PEEEKNIALS. 109 
 
 Aconitum Napellus ., Monkshood. 
 
 " variegatum Variegated Monkshood. 
 
 AnemoTie Japoiiica Japan Windflower. 
 
 *' var. ITonorine Jobert White Japan " 
 
 " Fulsatilla Pasque Flower. 
 
 Aquilegia alpina Alpine Columbine. 
 
 " ccerulea Rocky Mt. " 
 
 " chrysantha Golden-spurred Columbine. 
 
 •' vulgaris .• Garden " 
 
 AstilbeJaponica (Incorrectly Spiraea.) 
 
 Asperula ocloraia Woodi'uff. 
 
 JBaptisia australis False Indigo. 
 
 Campanula Carpathica Carpathian Harebell. 
 
 " persidfolia Peach-leaved " 
 
 " grandijlora Great-flowered " 
 
 and others. 
 
 Cassia MaHlandica Wild Senna. 
 
 Clematis erecta Upright Clematis. 
 
 " integrifolia Entire-leaved " 
 
 ColcMcum autumnale Meadow Saffron. 
 
 Convallana majalis Lily of the Valley. 
 
 Delphinium elatum Bee Larkspur. 
 
 " nudicaule Scarlet " 
 
 and others. 
 
 Dianthus plumarius Garden Pink. 
 
 " superbics Fringed " 
 
 Dicentra cximia Plumy Dicentra. 
 
 " spectaUUs Bleeding Heart. 
 
 Dictamnus Fraxinella Fraxinella. 
 
 Dodecatheon Ileadia Am. Cowslip. 
 
 Eranthis hiemalis Winter Aconite. 
 
 Erica carnea Winter Heath. 
 
 Funkia ovata Blue Day Lily. 
 
 " Japonica Japan " " 
 
 GypsopMla paniculata Panicled Gypsophila. 
 
 Hdleborus niger Christmas Rose. 
 
 Eep^Uica triloba Liver-leaf. 
 
 " " fl' P^ Double do. 
 
 Iberis Gibraltarica Gibraltar Candytuft. 
 
 ** sempervirens Perennial 
 
 Iris Germanica German Flower de Luce. 
 
 " Iberica Iberian " " " 
 
 " pmmila Dwarf " " " 
 
 and many others of a great range of colors. 
 
 Liatris spicata Blazing Star. 
 
 " squarrosa " " 
 
 and others. 
 
110 GARDENING FOE PLEASURE. 
 
 IMium auratum Gold-banded Lily, 
 
 this, with many other Japanese species in the catalogues, is perfectly 
 hardy, and there should be a good collection of them in every garden. 
 
 Limim perenne Perennial Flax. 
 
 Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower. 
 
 This native, (also its hybrids), does perfectly well in the drier soil of 
 the garden. 
 
 Lupinus polyphyllus Many-leaved Lupine. 
 
 lychnis Chalcedonica . , Scarlet Lychnis, 
 
 and several others. 
 
 Lysimachia mimmularia Moneywort. 
 
 Mertensii Virginica Virginia Lungwort. 
 
 Myosotis palustris Forget-me-not. 
 
 " Azorica , Azorian Forget-me-not. 
 
 " clissitiflora Early " " " 
 
 Narcissm bijlorus Primrose Peerless. 
 
 " poeticus Poet's Narcissus. 
 
 ** Jonquilla Jonquil. 
 
 " Bieudo-narcissus Daffodil, 
 
 ^in double and single varieties. 
 
 (Enothera Mhsouriensis Missouri Evening Primrose. 
 
 Fteonia officinalis Common Pseony, 
 
 and the various hydrids of this and other species, of which there are 
 many fine named sorts. 
 
 FcBonia tenuifolia , Fennel-leaved Pseony. 
 
 " Moutan Tree " 
 
 of which there are many named varieties. 
 
 Papaver orientale Oriental Poppy. 
 
 Pentstemon grandijlorus Large -flowered Pentstemon. 
 
 " barbatus var. Torrcyi Torrey's " 
 
 " Pahneri Palmer's " 
 
 and several other hardy species. 
 
 Phlox, herbaceous French Lilac. 
 
 Under this head a great number of florists named varieties may be had. 
 New ones are ofi"ered every year, and a good selection of colors makes a 
 grand show. 
 
 Phlox subiclata Moss Pink. 
 
 - Also the white variety. 
 
 PoUnvonium reptans Jacc'D's Ladder. 
 
 " cceruleum Greek Valerian. 
 
 Primula veHs Eng. Cowslip. 
 
 This and the Polyanthus varieties need a moist and shady place. P, 
 cortusoides is hardy, and P. Japonica probably so. 
 
 Pyrethrum carneum Rosy Pyrethrum, 
 
 the new double varieties. 
 
 Saxifraga crassifolia Thick-leaved 
 
 ** cordifolia Heart-leaved 
 
HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. Ill 
 
 Sedum acre Stone crop. 
 
 " Sieboldii (and var.) Siebold's Stone crop. 
 
 " pulchellum Beautiful " " 
 
 '* spectabile Showy " " 
 
 and a large number of otters, presenting a great variety in foliage and 
 flowers. 
 
 Sempervivum arachnoideum Cobweb Houseleek. 
 
 " calcaratum Purple-tipped " 
 
 " tectorum Common " 
 
 Of these curious plants there are more than 50 species in cultivation, 
 and all perfectly hardy ; useful on rock-work. 
 
 Spirceafilipendula, (and double) Drop wort. 
 
 " palmata Palmate Spiraea. 
 
 " Ulmaria Queen of the Meadow. 
 
 " venusta Queen of the Prairie. 
 
 Symphytum officinale var Variegated ('omfrey. 
 
 Thalictrum minics Maiden-hair Meadow Rue. 
 
 Tritoma uvaria, (and vars.) Red-hot Poker, 
 
 needs covering in winter with litter. 
 
 Tunica Saxifraga Rock Tunica. 
 
 Yucca jUam^ntosa Bear-Grass. 
 
 PERENNIAIi OKNAMENTAIi GRASSES. 
 
 1. Arundo Donax Great Reed. 
 
 2. " " versicolor Variegated Reed. 
 
 3. " conspicua Silvery " 
 
 4. Enanthus Ravennce Ravenna grass. 
 
 5. Evlalia Japonica var Japan Eulalia. 
 
 6. Festuca glauca Blue Fescue. 
 
 7. Gynerium, argenteum Pampas grass. 
 
 8. Panicum virgatum Wand-like Panic. 
 
 9. Phalaris arundinacea picta Ribbon grass. 
 
 10. Stipapcnnata Feather grass. 
 
 In the climate of New York, Nos. 1, 2 and 7 need protection ; Nos. 
 1 and 2 by litter over the roots, and No. 7 by covering it with a cask or 
 box. In the order of their hight, No. 6 is 6 inches, 9 and 10 a foot, 5 
 and 8, 3 to 4 feet, and 1, 2, 3, 4, and 7 from 6 to 13 feet, according to the 
 age of the plants. 
 
112 GAEDEiq^ING FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS. 
 
 To make a selection from the bewildering number of 
 varieties now offered in our seed catalogues, is an inter- 
 esting, though it may be sometimes rather a perplexing 
 operation. It is not yery easy to give specific advice in 
 the matter, as tastes are so varied. "We would say, in 
 general terms though, be shy of ^'^ novelties'' until you 
 see them recommended in the lists the second year ; you 
 may then know that their merits have been tested and 
 they are given permanent place. We have been import- 
 ers of all such *^ novelties'' for over twenty years, and 
 think ourselves lucky if we get one good thing for every 
 nineteen worthless ones we try. Still, to get the good 
 things, all that are offered must be tried, and subjected 
 to the sifting process — separating the chaff from the 
 wheat. We can only use space to enumerate a few gen- 
 erally favorite kinds, which we give in the list below; this 
 comprises such as are of easiest cultivation, and are 
 most valued for the beauty or fragrance of their flowers. 
 
 Asters, Escholtzia, Nasturtiums, 
 
 Balsams, Geraniums, NemopliUa, 
 
 Candytufts, Globe Amaranths, Pansy, 
 
 Cannas, Helictirysums, Petunia, 
 
 *Canary Bird Flower, Ice Plant, Phlox Drummondii, 
 
 Carnations,* ^Ipomsea, Poppy, 
 
 Clarkias, Lobelia, Portulaea, 
 
 Cockscombs, Lupines, Scabiosa, 
 
 CoUinsia, Lychnis, Schizanthus, 
 
 ^Convolvulus, Marigolds, *Sweet Peas, 
 
 ^Cypress Vine, Mignonnette, Stocks, 
 
 Delphiniums,(Larkspur) Mimosa, (Sensitive-plant) Zinnias, 
 Dianthus, 
 
 Those Marked * are climbers. 
 
 I have used the popular and scientific names indis- 
 criminately in the way they are given in most seed cata- 
 
AKKUAL FLOWERIKG PLAKTS. 113 
 
 logues, as this will facilitate reference to them for 
 descriptions. The rule for the sowing of seeds already 
 given in the chapter '^ Propagation of Plants by Seeds/' 
 applies to sowing the seeds of annuals whether in the hot- 
 bed or greenhouse, to obtain plants to set in the open 
 border, or sowing at once in the open border. The cov- 
 ering of the seeds should in every case be of a light ma- 
 terial. Thus, if the soil of your flower-garden is hard 
 and rough, be sure that the surface on which the delicate 
 seeds are to be sown is made smooth and level, and that 
 it is covered with a fine light soil, such as leaf-mold, in 
 the manner described in the chapter referred to. Proba- 
 bly three-fourths of all the flower-seeds that are sown by 
 amateurs never germinate, and for no other reason than 
 that they have not been properly treated. One sows a 
 tropical seed, such -as Portulaca, in March, and wonders 
 that it does not start to grow ; by May, the time it should 
 be sown in the ground, the spot has become covered with 
 weeds, and the tiny plant, if it comes now at all, is 
 choked and killed. Another reverses the order and 
 wonders that the hardy Pansy seeds which are sown in 
 June, fail to grow, or if they grow, fail to bloom in the 
 dog days. Our seed catalogues are nearly all defective in 
 not giving more specific directions for the culture of an- 
 nual plants ; if the space used for description of form and 
 color was devoted to telling the time and manner of sow- 
 ing, it would be of far more benefit to the amateur buyer, 
 but nearly all follow the English practice of giving de- 
 scriptions of varieties only. There the necessity for such 
 information is less, the people being better informed as to 
 flower culture, and the climate is also more congenial for 
 germination of most seeds. 
 
114 GAEDEiTI2S"G POE PLEASUEE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVl. 
 
 FLOWERS WHICH WH^L GROW 11^ THE SHADE. 
 
 Tliero GTG few plants that will flower in i:>laces from 
 which sunshine is entirely excluded. Some plants will 
 grow well enough, developing shoots and leaves, but 
 jloivers of nearly all kinds must have some sunshine. Of 
 those that do vvell and flower when planted out in the 
 open ground where sunlight only comes for two or three 
 hours during the day, may be named the following : 
 Calceolarias, Fuchi^ias, Lobelias, Herbaceous Phloxes, 
 Pansies, Forget-me-nots, Lily of the Valley, and other 
 herbaceous plants and shrubs whose native habitat is 
 shady vroods. Perhaps a better ciioct is produced in 
 such situations by ornamental leaved plants, such as Co- 
 Igugcs of all liinds. Amaranths, Achyranthes, Caladi- 
 ums, Cannas, and other plants with high colored or orna- 
 mental leaves. With these may be combined the difier- 
 ent styles of vv^hite or gray-leaved plants, such as Centau- 
 reas, Cinerarias, Gnaphaliums — plants known under the 
 general popular term of " Dusty Millers.'^ For our own 
 part v/e much prefer to devote shaded situations to such 
 plants, rather than to see the abortive attempts to produce 
 flowers made by plants in positions vv^here there is no sun- 
 shine. It may be hero remarked that the cultivator of 
 plants in rooms should understand the necessity of sun- 
 light to plants that are to flower, and endeavor to get 
 them as near as possible to a window having an eastern or 
 a southern aspect. The higher the temperature, the more 
 plants suffer for the want of light. Many plants, such 
 as Geraniums, Fuchsias, or Eoses, might remain in a 
 temperature of 40 degrees, in a cellar for example, away 
 from direct light for months without material injury, 
 while if the cellar contained a furnace keeping up a tern- 
 
liTSECTS. 115 
 
 perature of 70 degrees, tliey would all die before the win- 
 ter was ended, particularly if the plants were of a half 
 hardy nature. If tropical species, they might stand it 
 better, but all plants quickly become enfeebled when 
 kept at high temperature and away from the light. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVn. 
 
 INSECTS. 
 
 When insects attack plants in the greenhouse, parlor, 
 or anywhere under cover, we can generally manage to 
 get them under control, but when they attack plants in 
 the open air, it is according to our experience, difficult 
 to destroy them. Insects are injurious to plants in the 
 open air in two principal ways : some attack the branches 
 and leaves, and others infest the roots. When insects 
 attack the roots of a plant, we have been able to do but 
 little to stop their ravages. We can manage somewhat 
 better with those attacking the leaves, but even this di- 
 vision of the enemy is often too much for us. As a pre- 
 ventive, we vfould strongly advise that birds of all kinds 
 should be encouraged. Since the European sparrows 
 have favored us with their presence in such numbers, in- 
 sects of nearly all kinds have much decreased. Most 
 people will remember the disgusting *' measuring worm " 
 that festooned the shade-trees in New York, Brooklyn, 
 and other cities ten years ago ; these made their exit al- 
 most in proportion to the increase of sparrows, and now 
 hardly one is to be seen. The same is true of the Eose 
 slug. In my rose grounds, a few years ago, we were 
 obliged to employ a number of boys for weeks during the 
 summer to shake off and kill the Hose slug in order to 
 
116 GAKDEKIiq-G EOR PLEASURE. 
 
 keep the plants alive, but since we liaye had the sparrows 
 in such numbers, hardly one of these pests is now seen. 
 An examination of the crop of a sparrow killed in July, 
 showed that it contained Eose slugs, Aphis, or green-fly, 
 and the seeds of chickweed and other plants, proving 
 beyond question the fact that they are promiscuous feed- 
 ers. The Rose slug, {8elandria rosce), referred to above, 
 is a light green, soft insect, varying from ^|^g of an inch 
 to nearly an inch in length. There are apparently two 
 species or varieties, one of which eats only the cuticle of 
 the lower side of the leaf, the other eats it entire. The 
 first is by far the most destructive here. In a few days 
 after the plants are attacked they aj^pear as if they had 
 been burned. An excellent application for the prevention 
 of the ravages of the Eose slug is whale-oil soap dissolved 
 in the proportion of one lb. to eight gallons of water, this, 
 if steadily applied daily for a week with a syringe on Eose 
 plants, before the leaf has developed in spring, will en- 
 tirely prevent the attacks of the insect. But we find 
 that if the slug once gets fairly at work, this remedy is 
 powerless unless used so strong as to injure the leaves. 
 
 The Eose-Bug, {Macrodadylus sulspinosus), or Eose 
 Chaffer, gets its name from the preference it shows for 
 the buds and blossoms of the Eose, though it is equally 
 destructive to the Dahlia, Aster, Balsam, and many 
 other flowers, and especially grape blossoms. All the or- 
 dinary remedies seem to fail with the Eose-bug, and it 
 can only be stopped by picking it off by hand. 
 
 Green-Fly, or Aphis, is one of the most common, but 
 fortunately most easily destroyed, of any insect that in- 
 fests plants, either in-doors or out. In our greenhouses, as 
 already stated, we fumigate twice a week, by burning 
 about half a pound of refuse tobacco stems, (made 
 damp), to every 500 square feet of glass surface, but in 
 private greenhouses or on plants in rooms, fumigating is 
 often impracticable. Then the tobacco stems can be 
 
IKSECTS. 117 
 
 used by steeping one pound in five gallons of water, un- 
 til the water gets to be tlie color of strong tea. This 
 liquid applied over and under the leaves with a syringe, 
 will destroy the insect quite as well as by fumigating, 
 only in either case the application should be made before 
 the insects are seen, to prevent their coming rather than 
 to destroy them when established ; for often by neglect 
 they get a foothold in such legions that all remedies be- 
 come ineffectual to dislodge them. Another means of 
 preventing the green-fly is to apply tobacco in the shape 
 of dust. The sweepings of tobacco warehouses, which 
 can be found for sale in most seed or agricultural 
 establishments, at a cost of five to ten cents per 
 pound. This applied once or twice a week to an ordinary 
 sized private greenhouse, would effectually prevent any 
 injury from green-fly. 'No special quantity of this need 
 be prescribed, all that is necessary is to see that it is so 
 dusted on that it reaches all parts of the plant and on 
 both sides of the leaves. It is best to slightly syringe 
 the plants beforehand, so that the dust will adhere to the 
 leaves. When applied to plants out-doors, it should be 
 done in the morning when the dev^ is on. Fruit-trees 
 of many kinds, shrubs, and Eoses of all kinds, out of 
 doors, are particularly liable to injury from some species 
 of Aphis, but the application of tobacco dust, if made in 
 time, will be found a cheap and effectual remedy. 
 
 Ground or Blue Aphis, is a close relative of the pre- 
 ceeding, but it gets its living from the roots down in the 
 soil, while the Green Aphis feeds in the air on the leaves. 
 The Blue Aphis attacks a great many varieties of plants, 
 particularly in hot, dry weather, and whenever Asters, 
 Verbenas, Petunias, Oentaureas, or such plants begin to 
 droop, it will be found on examination, in three cases out 
 of four, that the farthest extremities of their roots are 
 completely surrounded by the Blue Aphis. The only 
 remedy we have ever found for this pest is a strong de- 
 
118 GAEDEKI^'G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 coction of tobacco, made so strong as to resemble strong 
 coffee in color. The earth around the plants must be 
 soaked with this so that the lowest roots will be reached. 
 The tobacco water will not hurt the plants, but will be 
 fatal to the insect, and if it has not already damaged the 
 roots to too great an extent, may prove a remedy. 
 
 Ants. — These are not usually troublesome unless in 
 great numbers, yet when they appear in strong force they 
 are often very destructive. About the simplest method 
 we have found to get rid of them, is to lay fresh bones 
 around the infested plants ; they will leave everything 
 to feed on these, and when thus accumulated may be 
 easily destroyed. 
 
 The Red Spider is one of the most insidious enemies 
 of plants, both when under glass and in the open air in 
 summer. It luxuriates in a hot and dry atmosphere, 
 and the only remedy that I can safely recommend to am- 
 ateurs, is copious syringings with water, if in the green- 
 house, so that a moist atmosphere can be obtained. This, 
 of course, is not practicable when plants are grown in 
 rooms, and the only thing that can then be done is to 
 sponge off the leaves. It is this insect, more than any 
 thing else, that makes it so difficult to grow plants in the 
 dry air of the sitting-room, as it may be sapping the 
 life blood from a plant, and its owner never discover the 
 cause of his trouble. It is so minute as hardly to be 
 seen by the naked eye, but its ravages soon show, and if 
 the leaves of your plants begin to get brown, an exami- 
 nation of the under-surface of the leaf will usually reveal 
 the little pests in great numbers. When they get thus 
 established there is no remedy but to sponge the leaves 
 thoroughly with water, or weak soapsuds. 
 
 The Mealy Bug, as it is generally called, is a white 
 mealy or downy-looking insect, which is often very trou- 
 blesome among hot-house plants, but rarely does any 
 harm amongst those that can live in a cool room, as no 
 
INSECTS. 119 
 
 doubt it is a native of some tropical country, and can 
 only exist in such a temperature as is required by plants 
 of that kind. There are various remedies used by florists, 
 but the use of nearly all of them might do more harm 
 than good in inexperienced hands, and I therefore advise 
 that they should only be destroyed by being vrashed off 
 such plants as Gardenias, or rubbed oil of more tender 
 leaved plants with a soft brush ; or where there are but 
 few, they may be readily picked off by the use of a quill 
 sharpened like a toothpick. 
 
 Broivn and Y/JiUg Scalo Insects. — These appear life- 
 less, and adhere closely to the stems of such plants as 
 Oleanders, Ivies, etc., and like the Mealy Bug are best 
 destroyed by being washed or rubbed off. 
 
 Thrips. — This is an insect varying in color from light 
 yellow to dark brown, and much more active in its move- 
 ments than the Green-Ply, and more difficult to destroy ; 
 when it once gets a foothold it is very destructive. It 
 succumbs to tobacco, in any of the forms recommended 
 for the destruction of Green-Fly, but not so readily. It 
 luxuriates in shaded situations, and generally abounds 
 where plants are standing too thickly together, or vdiere 
 ventilation or light is deficient. It may be safely as- 
 serted that in any well regulated place where plants 
 are kept, no injury from insects will ever become serious 
 if due attention has been given to keeping the atmos- 
 phere of the place moist, and using tobacco freely in any 
 of the forms wo have recommended. 
 
 The Anglo Worm. — This is the common worm seen 
 in every soil in pots and in the open ground. It is 
 harmless so far as feeding goes, for it seems never to 
 touch plants as food, but it bores and crawls around in 
 a vfay by no means beneficial to pot-grown plants ; it is, 
 hovv^ever, easily dislodged ; by slaking a quart of lime 't^'^i^ 
 and adding v\^ater to make up ten gallons of the liquid, 
 and watering the plants with it after it has become 
 
120 GAEDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 clear, the caustic qualities of tlie lime will be qnicldy 
 fatal to the worm. 
 
 CHAPTEE, XXXVIIL 
 
 MILDEW. 
 
 Mildew is a parasitical fungus, often seen on greenhouse 
 and other plants, and is quickly destructiye to their health. 
 But as with all other plant troubles, it is best to preyent 
 rather than cure. Care should be taken, particularly 
 where roses or grape yines are grown under glass, as both 
 of these are especially liable to be attacked, to ayoid a 
 rapid change of temperature, or a long exposure to sud- 
 den chill by draughts in yentilating. As soon as spots 
 of grayish-white appear on the leayes of roses or grape- 
 yines, either out-doors or under glass, it is certain that 
 mildew is present, but if it has not been neglected too 
 long, the following preparation will usually be found a 
 prompt remedy. Take three pounds each of flowers of sul- 
 phur and quick-lime, j)ut together and slake the lime, and 
 add six gallons of water ; boil all together until it is re- 
 duced to two gallons, allow the liquid to settle until it 
 gets clear, then bottle for use. One gill only of this is 
 to be mixed in fiye gallons of water, and syringed oyer 
 the plants in the eyening, taking care not to use it on the 
 fruit when ripe, as it would communicate a taste and 
 smell which y^ould render it useless. Applied in this 
 weak state, it does not injure the leayes, and yet has the 
 power to destroy the low form of yegetable growth, which 
 we call mildew. We apply it just as we do tobacco, once 
 or twice a week, as a preyentiye, and we rarely haye a 
 speck of mildew. 
 
EROZEN^ PLANTS. 121 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 FROZEN PLANTS. 
 
 When by any mishap the plants, whether in parlor or 
 greenhouse, become frozen, either at once remove them, 
 (taking care not to touch the leaves), to some place warm 
 enough to be just above the point of freezing ; if there 
 are too many to do that, get up the fire as rapidly as 
 possible and raise the temperature. The usual advice is 
 to sprinkle the leaves and shade the plants from the sun. 
 We have never found either remedy of any avail with 
 frozen plants, and the sprinkling is often a serious in- 
 jury if done before the temperature is above the freezing 
 point. In our experience with thousands of frozen plants, 
 we have tried all manner of expedients, and found no 
 better method than to get them out of the freezing at- 
 mosphere as quickly as possible, and we have also found 
 that the damage is. in proportion to the succulent condi- 
 tion of the plant, and the intensity of the freezing. Just 
 what degree of cold plants in any given condition can en- 
 dure without injury, we are unable to state. Plants are 
 often frozen so that the leaves hang down, but when 
 thawed out are found to be not at all injured ; at another 
 time the same low temperature acting on the same kind 
 of plants may kill them outright if they happen to be 
 growing more thriftily, and are full of sap. When the 
 frost is penetrating into a greenhouse or room in which 
 plants are kept, and the heating arrangements are inade- 
 quate to keep it out, the best thing to do is to cover the 
 plants with paper, (newspapers), or sheeting ; thus pro- 
 tected, most plants will be enabled to resist four or five 
 degrees of frost ; paper is rather better than sheeting for 
 this purpose. 
 6 
 
123 GARDEKIl^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 MULCHING. 
 
 Litter of any kind placed around newly planted trees 
 to prevent evaporation from the soil, was the original 
 meaning of mulch, but it is at present extended to in- 
 clude a covering of the soil applied at any time, and for 
 very different purposes. Good cultivators apply hay, 
 straw, or other litter to the surface of the soil to protect 
 the roots of certain plants against the action of frost, it 
 being useful, not so much against freezing as to prevent 
 the alternate freezing and thawing, that is apt to occur 
 in our variable and uncertain climate, even in mid- win- 
 ter. As mentioned under strawberry culture, the mulch 
 applied in the fall protects the roots during winter, it is 
 allowed to remain on the bed where, if thick enough, it 
 keeps down weeds, and prevents the evaporation of mois- 
 ture from the soil during the dry time we are apt to have 
 between the flowering and the ripening of the strawberry. 
 Besides all this, it makes a clean bed for the fruit to rest 
 upon, and should a driving shower come up as the fruit 
 is ripening, there is no danger that the berries will be 
 splashed with mud and spoiled. The utility of a mulch 
 is not confined to the strawberry among fruits ; raspber- 
 ries and currants are much benefitted by it, and by its 
 use a gardener of my acquaintance succeeds in growing 
 fine crops of the fine varieties of English gooseberries, a 
 fruit with which very few succeed in our hot summers. 
 Newly planted trees, whether of fruit or ornamental 
 kinds, are much benefitted by a mulch, and its applica- 
 tion often settles the question of success or failure. We 
 have known a whole pear orchard to be mulched, and the 
 owner thought its cost was more than repaid by saving 
 
MULCHIiq^G. 123 
 
 the fallen fruit from bruises. The rooting of a layer is 
 by some gardeners thought to be facilitated by placing a 
 flat stone oyer the buried branch ; the fact being that 
 the stone acts as a mulch, and prevents the soil around 
 the cut portion from drying out, and greatly favors the 
 rooting process. Even in the vegetable garden, mulch- 
 ing is found useful, especially with cauliflowers, which 
 find our summers quite too dry. The material of the 
 mulch is not of much importance, the effect being purely 
 mechanical, one kind of litter will answer as well as an- 
 other ; the material will be governed in great measure by 
 locality ; those living near salt water will find salt-hay, 
 as hay from the marshes is called, the most readily pro- 
 cured ; those who live near pine forests use the fallen 
 leaves, or pine needles as they are called ; in the grain 
 growing districts straw is abundant, and nothing can be 
 better ; it can be applied more thoroughly if run through 
 a cutter, though the thrashing machine often makes it 
 short enough. Leaves are nature's own mulch, and an- 
 swer admirably ; if there is danger of their being blown 
 away, brush laid over them, or even a little earth sprink- 
 led on them will keep them in place. Tan-bark and saw- 
 dust may serve for some uses, but they are very bad for 
 strawberries, their finer particles being about as objec- 
 tionable as the soil. One of the best materials to use for 
 summer mulching is the green grass mowed from lawns. 
 This applied to the thickness of two or three inches 
 around the roots of all kinds of small fruits, will be 
 found not only to greatly benefit the crop, particularly in 
 dry weather, but will save greatly in labor by preventing 
 the growth of weeds. One of our best private gardeners 
 in the vicinity of New York has adopted this summer 
 mulching with the grass from the lawn for nearly twenty 
 years, and has succeeded in growing all kinds of small 
 fruits in the highest degree of perfection. 
 
124 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 ARE PLANTS IN ROOMS INJURIOUS TO HEALTH? 
 
 The question whether plants may be safely grown 
 in living rooms is now settled by scientific men, who 
 show that whatever deleterious gases may be given 
 out by plants at night they are so minute in quantity 
 that no injury is ever done by their presence in the 
 rooms and by being inhaled. Though we were glad 
 to see the question disposed of by such authority, ex- 
 perience had already shown that no bad effects ever 
 resulted from living in apartments where plants were 
 grown. Our greenhouses are one mass of foliage, and I 
 much doubt if any healthier class of men can be found 
 than those engaged in the care of plants. But timid per- 
 sons may say that the deleterious gases are given out only 
 at night, while our greenhouse operatives are only em- 
 ployed in daylight. This is only true in part. Our 
 watchmen and men engaged in attending to fires at 
 night make the warm greenhouses their sitting-room and 
 their sleeping-room, and I have yet to hear of the first 
 instance where the slightest injury resulted from this 
 practice. Many of our medical practitioners run in old 
 ruts. Some Solomon among them probably gave out this 
 dogma a century ago, it was made the convenient scape- 
 goat of some other cause of sickness, and the rank and 
 file have followed in his train. A belief in this error 
 often consigns to the cellar, or to the cold winds of win- 
 ter, the treasured floral pets of a household. 
 
SHADIIs"G. 125 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 SHADING. 
 
 In mulching the object is to j^revent eyaporation from 
 the soil, as well as to shield the roots from sudden 
 changes of temperature ; it is often necessary to protect 
 the whole plant in this respect, and this is accomplished 
 by shading. Although on a large scale, we can do little 
 in the way of shading plants in the open ground, yet the 
 amateur will often find it of great utility, as screening 
 will frequently save a recently transplanted plant, which 
 without it would be quite ruined by a few hours' exposure 
 to the sun. For shading small plants in the border, such 
 as transplanted annuals, a few shingles will be found very 
 useful, one or two of these can be stuck in the ground so 
 as to completely protect the delicate plant and yet not 
 deprive it of air. Six-inch boards of half-inch stuff 
 nailed together to form a Y shaped trough are very use- 
 ful in the garden ; they are handy to place over small 
 plants during cold nights, and may be turned over and 
 set to make a screen against strong winds, or used for 
 shading plants in rows. Seedlings often suffer from the 
 heat of the sun in the middle of the day ; the seedlings 
 of even the hardiest forest trees are very delicate when 
 young. The seeds of such trees when sown naturally al- 
 most always fall where the young plant will be shaded, 
 and the amateur who experiments in this very interesting 
 branch of horticulture, the raising of evergreen and de- 
 ciduous trees and shrubs from seed, will find it necessary 
 to imitate nature and protect his young seedlings from 
 the intense heat of the sun. There are several ways of 
 doing this ; if the seeds have been sown in an open bor- 
 der, let him take twigs about a foot long, evergreen if 
 
126 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 they can bo had, but if not, those from any deciduous 
 tree, and stick them a few inches apart all over the bed. 
 This will give the seedlings very much such a protection 
 as they would naturally have had in the shade of other 
 plants, and though evergreens will look better for a while, 
 the dead leaves of deciduous twigs will give quite as use- 
 ful a shade. It is always safer to sow seeds in a frame, 
 as the young plants are then under more complete con- 
 trol. Frames are easily shaded by means of a lattice 
 made of common laths. Strips of inch stuff an inch and 
 a half or two inches wide, are used for the sides of the 
 lattice, and laths are nailed across as far apart as their 
 own width. One lath being nailed on, another is laid 
 down to mark the distance, the third one 23ut down and 
 nailed, and the second lath is moved along to mark the 
 distance for the fourth, and so on. "With a screen of this 
 kind there is abundant light, but the sun does not shine 
 long at a time on one spot, and the j^lants have a con- 
 stantly changing sun and shade. This lath screen may 
 be used for shading plants in the open ground if sup- 
 ported at a proper hight above them. In a propagating 
 house, where it is necessary, as it often is, to shade cut- 
 tings, a lattice laid upon the outside of the glass answers 
 a good purpose. The laths are sometimes tied together 
 with strong twine, the cord answering the place of slats, 
 and serving as a warp with which the laths are woven ; 
 the advantage of a screen of this kind is that it can be 
 rolled up. Plants kept in windows during the summer 
 months will, if in a sunny exposure, require some kind 
 of a shade, and if the one provided to keep the sun from 
 the room shuts out too much light, or excludes air as 
 well as sun, something must be provided which will give 
 protection during the heat of the day, and still allow 
 sufficient light and an abundant circulation of air. Any 
 one with ingenuity can arrange a screen of white cotton 
 cloth to answer the purpose. 
 
SHADING. 127 
 
 The old practice of stripping the greenhouse in sum- 
 mer is falling into disuse, and by a proper selection of 
 plants and sufficient shade, it is made as attractive then 
 as at any other season, but even for tropical plants the 
 glass must be shaded. For a small lean-to, a screen of 
 light canvass or muslin arranged upon the outside, so 
 that it may be wound up on a roller when not wanted 
 will answer,, and if it be desired to keep the house as cool 
 as possible, this should be so contriyed that there will be 
 a space of six inches or so between that and the glass. 
 But upon a large house, or one with a curvilinear roof, 
 this is not so manageable, and the usual method is to coat 
 the glass with some material which will obstruct a part 
 of the light. The most common method is to give the 
 outside of the glass a coat of ordinary lime whitewash ; 
 this makes a sufficient shade, and is gradually dissolved 
 by the rains, so that by autumn the coating is removed, 
 or so nearly so that what remains may be readily washed 
 off. A more pleasant effect is j)roduced by spattering the 
 glass with the same wash, which can be done by a dex- 
 terous use of the brush and flirting it so as to leave the 
 wash in numerous fine drops, like rain-drops. Others 
 use whiting and milk for the same purpose. Whatever 
 may be the means of effecting it, we find that in this lat- 
 itude shading of some kind is required from about the 1st 
 of May to the middle of September by nearly all plants 
 grown under glass. Ferns, Lycopods, Caladiums, Primu- 
 las, Fuchsias, Begonias, Gloxinias, Achimenes, Lobelias, 
 Smilax, and plants of that character require the glass to be 
 heavily shaded, while for Roses, Carnations, Bouvardias, 
 Poinsettias, Geraniums of all kinds, and nearly all suc- 
 culent plants, do not need so much. The method of 
 spattering the glass outside with thin whitewash, allows 
 the shading to be light or heavy, as required. When 
 first done, it is spattered very thinly, merely to break the 
 strong glare of the sun, just about thick enough to half 
 
128 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 cover ttie surface. As the season advances, the spatter- 
 ing should be repeated to increase the shade, but at no 
 time for the plants last mentioned do we entirely cover 
 the glass. In England, especially for fern houses, 
 Brunswick green mixed with milk is used, to give a 
 green shade, which is thought to be best suited to these 
 plants. The blue glass for greenhouses which was so 
 highly lauded a few years ago, has not met with much 
 favor, but recent experiments in glazing with ground 
 glass have given such results as to warrant a more careful 
 investigation into the use of this material. 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS. 
 
 I refer to this matter in the hope that it may be the 
 means of saving some of my readers, not only from being 
 duped and swindled, by a class of itinerant scamps that 
 annually reap a rich harvest in disposing of impossibili- 
 ties in flowers, but that I may assure them of the utter 
 improbability of their ever seeing such wonders as these 
 fellows offer, thereby saving them from parting with 
 money for worthless objects, and from the ridicule of 
 their friends who are already better advised. This sub- 
 ject cannot be too often brought before our amateur hor- 
 ticulturists. Warnings are given year after year in lead- 
 ing agricultural and other journals devoted to gardening, 
 yet a new crop of dupes is always coming up who readily 
 fall victims to the scoundrels who live upon their credu- 
 lity. Not a season passes but some of these swindling 
 dealers have the audacity to plant themselves right in 
 
THE LAW OF COLOK IK FLOWEES. 129 
 
 the business centers of our large cities, and hundreds of 
 our sharp business men glide smoothly into their nets. 
 The very men who will chuckle at the misfortunes of 
 a poor rustic when he falls into the hands of a mock 
 auctioneer, or a pocket-book dropper, will freely pay 810 
 for a rose plant of which a picture has been shown them 
 as haying a blue flower ; the chance of its coming blue 
 being about equal to the chance that the watch of the 
 mock auctioneer will be gold. It has long been known 
 among the best observers of such matters, that in certain 
 families of plants, particular colors prevail, and that in 
 no single instance can we ever expect to see Uue, yellow, 
 and scarlet colors in vaiHeties of the same species. If any 
 one at aU conversant with plants will bring any family of 
 them to mind, it will at once be seen how undeviating 
 is this law. In the Dahlia we have scarlet and yellow, 
 but no approach to blue, so in the Kose, Hollyhock, etc. 
 Again in the Verbena, Salvia, etc., we have scarlet and 
 blue, but no yellow I If we reflect it will be seen that 
 there is nothing out of the order of nature in this arrange- 
 ment. We never expect to see among our poultry with 
 their varied but somber plumage, any assume the azure 
 hues of our spring Blue-bird, or the dazzling tints of the 
 Oriole ; why then should we expect nature to step out 
 of what seems her fixed laws, and give us a blue Rose, 
 a blue Dahlia, or a yellow Verbena ? 
 
THE FRUIT GARDEN 
 
PKUisrii^G. 133 
 
 CHAPTEE XLIV. 
 
 PKUNING. 
 
 Though the chapter on pruning is placed at the com- 
 mencement of that division of the work which treats 
 upon fruits, the fact must not be lost sight of that prun- 
 ing is often quite as necessary u23on trees and shrubs cul- 
 tivated for their flowers or foliage as upon those grown 
 for their fruit. In pruning we cut away some portion of 
 a tree, shrub, or other plant, for the benefit of that which 
 remains, and whether performed upon a branch six inches 
 through, or upon a shoot so tender as to be cut by the 
 thumb-nail, is essentially the same. The operation, 
 though very simple, is one which the amateur often 
 fears to undertake, and having no confidence in his 
 own ability, he often employs some jobbing gar- 
 dener, who has no fears on this or any other gar- 
 dening matter. Pruning is done for various ends, 
 and unless one has a definite reason for doing it, he had 
 better leave it undone : Many have an idea that pruning 
 must, for some reason, be done every year, just as it used 
 to be thought necessary for people to be bled every spring, 
 whether well or ill. We prune to control the shape of a 
 tree or shrub, and by directing the growth from one part 
 to another, obtain a symmetrical form, especially in fruit 
 trees, where it is desirable that the weight of fruit be 
 equally distributed. In some trees where the fruit is 
 grown only on the wood of the previous season, the bear- 
 ing portions are each year removed further and further 
 from the body of the tree ; in such cases a shortening of 
 the growth each year will cause the formation of a com- 
 pact head instead of the loose straggling that results 
 when this is omitted. We prune to renew the vigor of a 
 plant ; the inexperienced cannot understand how cutting 
 
134 GAEDEXIXG FOE PLEASUKE. 
 
 away a thirds a half, or eyen more of a plant can improYe 
 it in yigor and fruitfulness, or abundance and size of 
 flowers. Let us suppose that a stem which grew last year 
 has 20 buds upon it; if this is allowed to take its own course 
 in the spring, a few of the upper buds will push with 
 great vigor, and form strong shoots ; those below will 
 make gradually weaker shoots, and for j^robably the lower 
 third of the stem the buds will not start at all; the most 
 vigorous growth is always at the top, the buds there were 
 the last formed in the previous summer, are the most 
 excitable, and the soonest to grow the next spring, and 
 getting the start of those below them, they draw the 
 nourishment to themselves and starve the others. If, 
 instead of allowing this stem to grow at will in this man- 
 ner, it had been, before any of the buds started, cut 
 back to leave only a few of the lower ones, those hav- 
 ing an abundance of nutriment would push forth with 
 great vigor and be nearly equal in size, while the flowers or 
 fruit borne upon them would be greatly superior to those 
 uj^on the unpruned stem. Any one can readily be con- 
 vinced of the utility of pruning by taking two rose-bushes 
 of equal size, leaving one without any pruning to take 
 care of itseK, and each spring cutting the other back se- 
 verely, pruning away one-third or one-haK of the wood 
 that was formed the previous season. The result at the 
 end of two years will be very striking. Xo general rule 
 can be given for pruning ; the amateur should use his 
 eyes, and notice the habit of growth of his trees and 
 shrubs. He will find that many, like the rose, produce 
 their flowers upon the new wood of the present season, 
 and that such plants are greatly benefitted by cutting 
 back more or less each spring. But there are other 
 plants for which this treatment will not answer ; if we 
 examine a horse-chestnut-tree, or a lilac-bush, and many 
 others, we shall find that the flowers come from the large 
 buds that were formed on the end of last season's growth. 
 
PEu:s'iXG. 135 
 
 and that to cnt back such i)lants would be to remove all 
 the flower-buds. With shrubs of this kind, all that need 
 be done is to thin out the branches where they are too 
 crowded. These examples will warn the novice against 
 indiscriminate pruning, and unless as he stands before 
 his shrub or tree, knife in hand, he knows why he is to 
 prune and how, let him put his knife in his pocket, and 
 give the j^lant the benefit of the doubt. While under 
 the different fruits we can give directions for the partic- 
 ular 23runing required by each, the proper method of 
 treating a miscellaneous collection of ornamental shrubs 
 and trees can only be learned by observation. The term 
 pruning is generally applied to the cutting away, in whole 
 or in part, of the ripened wood, but much pruning may 
 be done by the use of the thumb and finger ; this is 
 termed pinching, and is practiced upon young shoots 
 while they are yet soft. This most useful form of prun- 
 ing allows us to control the form of a plant with the 
 greatest ease, and is applied not only to soft-wooded 
 plants, but to trees and shrubs, and may be so performed 
 on these as to render nearly, if not quite, all pruning of 
 ripened wood unnecessary. If a vigorous shoot has its 
 end or '^growing point"' pinched out it will cease to 
 elongate, but will throw out branches below, the growth 
 of which may be controlled in the same manner; the 
 blackberry illustrates the utility of this kind of pruning ; 
 the rampant growing shoot which springs up from the 
 root will, if left to itself, make a long cane six or eight 
 feet high, and with a very few branches near the top ; if 
 when this shoot has reached four, or at most five feet, 
 its end be pinched off, it will then throw out numerous 
 branches, and if the upper branches, when they reach the 
 length of 18 inches, be '' stopped," (as it is called), in a 
 similar manner, by pinching, the growth will be directed 
 to the lower ones, and by the end of the season instead 
 of a long, unmanageable wand, there will be a well- 
 
136 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 branched bush which will bear its fruit all within reach. 
 The grower of plants in pots is usually afraid to remove 
 even a single inch of the stem, and the result is usually 
 a lot of '^ leggy" specimens not worth the care that is 
 otherwise bestowed upon them. Plants may be prevented 
 from ever reaching this condition, if their growth be 
 properly controlled by pinching ; but if they have once 
 reached it, they should be cut back severely, and a com- 
 pact bushy form obtained from the new shoots which will 
 soon start. The mechanical part of pruning is very sim- 
 ple, a sharp knife is the best implement, as it makes a 
 clean cut, without bruising 
 the bark, and the wound 
 quickly heals ; but shears are 
 much easier to handle, and 
 the work can be done so 
 much more quickly, that they 
 are generally preferred, and 
 for rampant growing bushes 
 will answer, but upon fruit- 
 trees, and choice plants gen- 
 erally, the knife is to be pre- 
 ferred. The cut should be 
 made just at a joint ; not so 
 far above it as to leave a 
 stub, as in fig. 49, which will die back to the bud, there 
 being nothing to contribute to its growth ; nor should it 
 be made so close to the bud as to endanger it, as in fig. 
 48 ; the cut should start just opposite the lower part of 
 the bud and end just above its top, as in fig. 50. For 
 the removal of branches too large to cut with the knife, 
 as must sometimes be done on neglected trees, a saw is 
 required. Saws are made especially for the purpose, but 
 any narrow one with the teeth set wide will answer ; the 
 rough cut left by the saw should be pared smooth, and if 
 an inch or more in diameter, the wound should be cov- 
 
 Fig. 48. Fig. 49. Fig. 50. 
 
 WHEKE TO CUT IN PRUNING. 
 
PEUKING. 
 
 137 
 
 ered ; ordinary paint, melted grafting wax, or shellac 
 yarnish. will answer to protect the bare wood from air and 
 moisture, and j^reyent decay. 
 
 In pruning it is well to remember that the future 
 shape of the tree will be materially affected by the 
 position upon the branch of the bud to which the 
 cut is made ; the upper bud left on the branch will 
 continue the growth, and the new shoot will be in the 
 direction of that bud. If 
 a young tree is, as in fig. 
 51, to haye all its branches 
 shortened, and each is cut 
 to a bud. A, pointing to- 
 wards the center of the tree, 
 the tendency of the new 
 growth will all be inward, 
 as in fig. 52 ; while if all 
 be cut to an outside bud, 
 B, the result will be to 
 spread the growth, as in 
 fig. 53. As to the time of 
 pruning, about y/hich there 
 has been much discussion, 
 it may be done on small 
 stems at any time after the 
 fall of the leaf, before the growth starts in the spring, 
 but for the remoyal of large branches, late in winter is 
 regarded as the best time. Pinching is of course done 
 wheneyer it is needed. 
 
 Fig. 51. Fig. 53. Fig. 53. 
 
 PEimiNG FOK SHAPE. 
 
138 QARDEKING FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 HAKDT GKAPES. 
 
 Grapes can be grown in almost any soil, provided it is 
 not a wet one, although the grape will take abundance of 
 water when in a growing state, it must pass off quickly, 
 else the growth will be impeded. If the ground is not 
 naturally suitable, (^. e., at least a foot in depth of good 
 soil), a border prepared in the manner recommended in 
 the chapter on ^' Cold Grapery," will v/ell repay the 
 trouble. It is imiDerative that the position where the 
 vine is planted be such as will enable it to get sunlight 
 for the greater portion of the day. Ten years ago I 
 planted an arbor with an arched top and 100 feet long by 
 16 feet wide and 10 feet high, covering a walk running 
 east and west ; this gave a south and north exposure. 
 The crop has always been excellent and abundant on the 
 south side, and top of the arbor, but on the north 
 side, (unless the first and second years of fruiting, 
 when there was not sufficient foliage to impede the light), 
 it has been nearly a failure. There is much misconcep- 
 tion as to what should be the age of a grape-vine when 
 planted ; nine-tenths of our amateur customers ask for 
 vines three or four years old. If a vine of that age could 
 be properly lifted with every root unbroken, then there 
 might be some advantage in its greater strength, but as 
 vines are usually grown in the nurseries closely together, 
 with the roots all interlaced, large plants can rarely be got 
 with roots enough to support the vine and maintain its 
 vigor after transplanting. As a rule it is better to plant 
 one or two-year-old vines, which can usually be bought 
 at half the price of those of three or four years old, and 
 
HARDY GRAPES. 
 
 139 
 
 which in all probability will give a crop quite as soon, if 
 not sooner, than the large ones. The manner of j)lant- 
 ing the vine is similar to that of setting any other tree or 
 shrub. The ground must be thoroughly broken up, not 
 in a mere hole only sufficient to hold the roots, but if a 
 regular border has not been made, the place where each 
 vine is to be planted, should not be less than three feet 
 in diameter, and if double that, all the better, and to the 
 depth of not less than a foot. On receiving the vine 
 from the nursery, it may consist of one or more shoots. 
 
 Fig. 54. — VINE WITH TWO SHOOTS, 
 
 Fig. 55.— VINE WITH ARMS. 
 
 but on planting it should be cut back to only two or three 
 eyes or buds. On starting to grow, all of these buds or 
 eyes should be rubbed off except one, selecting the strong- 
 est. Train this shoot perpendicularly to a stake the first 
 year of its growth, the next fall, when the leaves drop, 
 cut it back to nine or ten inches from the ground. When 
 the vine starts the next spring, rub off all eyes or buds 
 except two, which during the season will form two canes, 
 as in fig. 54. These, if they are canes half an inch in 
 
140 
 
 GARDEi^^ING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 diameter, are in fall to be pruned to three or four feet 
 long, and the following spring are to be trained hori- 
 zontally, one to the right, the other to the left. If at 
 the end of the second year they are still small, it is 
 better to delay laying down the arms until another 
 year, and grow two upright shoots again, to get 
 them sufficiently strong. These will form the base from 
 which to start the upright shoots, as shown in fig. 55. 
 These upright growths will be the permanent fruiting 
 canes, and should be from 15 to 18 inches apart, and 
 pruned on what is known as the spur system as shown 
 
 Fig, 56. — ^VTNE SPHR-PRUXED. 
 
 by fig. 56. There is nothing arbitrary as to the hight 
 these canes should be. It is a matter of convenience or 
 taste whether they be trained to 3 feet or 15 feet. 
 Vines thus treated may be allowed to produce a few 
 bunches the third year, and by the sixth year, may be 
 fruited to the hight of 10 or 12 feet of cane if desired. 
 Not more than two bunches of fruit should be allowed to 
 each shoot. We give this manner of training as one of 
 the simplest, although the system of training has but 
 little to do with the crop. 
 
 The distance apart at which grape-vines may be plant- 
 ed, except the Delaware and a few of the w^eaker grow- 
 ing sorts, is about eight feet ; the Delaware may be set 
 one-third closer. Although grape-vines are hardy in 
 nearly all sections, yet in any locality where the ther- 
 
HARDY GRAPES. 141 
 
 mometer falls to zero, it is beneficial to lay them down 
 close to the ground and cover them up with rough litter 
 before the approach of severe weather in winter, allowing 
 it to remain on in spring until the buds begin to swell, 
 when the vines are uncovered and tied up to the trellis. 
 If covered in this way they should be pruned before lay- 
 ing down. Pruning may be done at any time from No- 
 vember to March. It is a common belief that grape-vines 
 should be pruned only at certain seasons. The weather 
 must not be too cold, otherwise it is supposed they may 
 be injured if then pruned. Again, they must not be 
 pruned late in the spring, else the sap oozing from the 
 cuts may bleed them to death. Let me say that both 
 these notions are utter nonsense. The pruning of any 
 tree or vine in the coldest weather cannot possibly injure, 
 and the '^ bleeding" or running of the sap after any or- 
 dinary pruning, can no more hurt the vine than the 
 blood flowing from a pin scratch would weaken a healthy 
 man. This method of covering up the grape-^dne is not 
 commonly practised, but we are satisfied that in exposed 
 positions it is well worth the trouble. I have practised 
 it with vines now ten years old, embracing some 20 vari- 
 eties ; my soil is a stiff clay very unsuitable for the grape, 
 yet these vines have kept clear of mildew, when my 
 neighbor's vines a few hundred yards off have been seri- 
 ously injured by it. I have long believed that intense 
 cold, long continued, is hurtful to even such plants as we 
 call hardy, and the wonderful vigor of these old vines, 
 so treated, seems a good evidence of it. 
 
 The litter used in covering, (which has become well- 
 rotted by spring), is spread over the border, acting both 
 as a summer mulch and fertilizer. Mildew is the worst 
 enemy to the vine ; the same remedy we recommend in 
 this book for mildew on roses, will be found equally effi- 
 cacious for the grape. On the large scale dry sulphur is 
 used, blown upon the vines by a bellows for the purpose. 
 
142 
 
 GARDEi^IISrG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 Propagation of the grape is done by nurserymen in green- 
 houses, similar to that used for -propagating 
 florists plants. But most of the varieties can 
 be grown with fair success by cuttings in the 
 open air. The cuttings, (made from the 
 young, well ripened shoots of the previous 
 year's growth), may be made with two (fig. 57) 
 or three buds or eyes, planted in rows, say one 
 foot apart and three inches between the cut- 
 tings, and set so that the top eye or bud only 
 is above ground. The situation where the 
 cuttings are placed should be well exposed 
 to the sun, the soil rich and deep, and of 
 sandy or light character. Care must be 
 taken that the cutting is well firmed in the 
 soil. The cuttings may be made from the 
 prunings at any time during winter, and 
 kept in a damp cellar or buried outside 
 in sand until planted in the cutting-bed in the spring. 
 
 Fig. 57. 
 
 CUTTING. 
 
 THE VARIETIES OF THE GRAPE 
 
 NoT% number many hundred, and we will recommend 
 only a very few of the most distinct sorts that have been 
 grown long enough to allow us to be certain of their 
 merits. 
 
 Concord is perhaps more universally cultivated than 
 any other. It grows most luxuriantly, bearing bunches 
 of large size abundantly ; color black, with a rich blue 
 bloom ; the flavor is of average quality. Eipens during 
 the month of September. 
 
 Hartford Prolific. — Eesembles the Concord in general 
 appearance, but ripens two or three weeks earlier. It is 
 valuable on this account, but in light soils drops its fruit 
 badly, which is quite a drawback. 
 
 lona. — Is a seedling of the old Catawba, color pale red. 
 
HAEDT GRAPES. 143 
 
 flavor excellent, fully equal to the Catawba, but it is pref- 
 erable to that variety in ripening fully a month earlier, 
 or from the 1st to 15th of September. One of the best, 
 where it succeeds ; it requires a strong soil. 
 
 Delaiuare, — Its entirely distinct character from any of 
 our hardy grapes, at one time raised the question whether 
 this was not a foreign variety, but that point we believe 
 is now settled, and it is conceded to be a native. In 
 flavor it is unsurpassed, equal to many of our best foreign 
 sorts. Bunches and berries small, of a dark pinkish red 
 color. 
 
 Rogers' Hybrids. — These varieties, probably from the 
 unfortunate mistake made by their raiser in designating 
 them by numbers instead of by names, have never, we 
 think, had the popularity they deserve. Some of them 
 are entirely distinct in color and flavor from any other 
 native grapes, and form magnificent bunches. No. 4 (now 
 called Wilder), has berries and bunches of the largest size, 
 black with rich bloom, flavor excellent, ripens September 
 first. No. 15, (Agawam), is a beautiful grape of a 
 bronze color, with pinkish bloom on the side next the 
 sun. It ripens early in September, and we find every 
 season that the grape consumers of our household rarely 
 touch a bunch of any other grape as long as any are 
 left on No. 15. No. 1, (Goethe), is about the size and 
 color of the white Malaga grape of commerce, tinged 
 with pink on the sunny side, flavor excellent, one of the 
 latest, ripening here in October. No. 19 resembles No. 
 4, but of an entirely distinct flavor, by some preferred ; 
 ripens 15th of September. 
 
IM GARDEKIiq"G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XLVI. 
 
 THE COLD GRAPERY. 
 
 I know of no addition to a country home from which 
 such a large amount of satisfaction can be obtained at so 
 small an outlay as from a grapery for growing the differ- 
 ent varieties of foreign grapes. It has been proved that 
 none of these fine varieties can be cultivated with any sat- 
 isfaction in any part of the northern or even middle 
 states, except under glass. In California and some other 
 states and territories west of the Mississippi the varie- 
 ties of the European grape have been extensively grown 
 in the open air. There the conditions of climate are 
 such as to make their culture a success equal to that at- 
 tained any where in Europe. Besides the luxury of the 
 grape as a table fruit, no finer sight can be seen, and there 
 is nothing of which an amateur gardener may be more 
 proud than a grapery in which the vines are loaded with 
 ripe fruit. And as this can be obtained at a trifling 
 original outlay, and with but little attention in the culti- 
 vation afterwards, I will briefly describe how to do it. 
 
 Our climate is particularly well adapted to the cultiva- 
 tion of vines under glass without fire heat, and the won- 
 der is that cold graperies are not in more general use 
 even by people of moderate means than they at pres- 
 ent are. We built one for our own use on the plan shown 
 on page 92 ; it answering for a greenhouse as well as 
 for a grapery. The dimensions are 50 feet long by 
 25 wide. It is finished in very good style, and cost but 
 little more than 11,000. It was planted in June, and 
 the third year from planting we cut upwards of 300 lbs. 
 of fruit from it ; the next season it yielded nearly double 
 that quantity. The building was begun by setting locust 
 posts four feet apart ; on these was framed the sill, on 
 
THE COLD GRAPERY. 145 
 
 the front of wliicli were placed upright saslies two and a 
 half feet in hight, and on these the gutter. From the 
 gutter was sprung the bars, ten inches apart each way, 
 running on the east side clear to the ridge pole ; on the 
 west framed to within 2 feet of it, so as to give room for 
 lifting sashes. These were two feet wide by six long. 
 To these sashes, eight in number, were attached Hitch- 
 in g's patent ventilating apparatus, which by turning a 
 crank opens these sashes from one to twenty-four inches, 
 as desired. The front sashes may be made so that 
 every alternate one can open outward. The glass used 
 is known as second quality English or French, 8 x 10 
 inches, and put in without the use of any putty on 
 the top of the glass, the manner of glazing being to 
 '^bed" the pane in soft putty, pressing it down tightly, 
 and then tacking in the glass with large glazing points 
 about the size shown in fig. 58; 
 we find it an excellent plan in 
 glazing to turn up the edge of 
 these points as in fig. 59, so that 
 
 they can catch under the edge of yi^. 58. Fig. 59J 
 
 the lapping pane to keep it in tin. bent tin. 
 
 place, otherwise it would slip down, and give a great deal 
 of trouble. Glaziers will not use the points in this way 
 unless compelled to do so, as it takes a somewhat longer 
 time. Glass should never be lapped more than a quarter 
 of an inch, if much more, the water gets between the 
 laps, and when it freezes the glass is cracked. With 
 these instructions about the erection of the glass and 
 wood-work, any intelligent mechanic should be able to 
 build from the plan given. Provision far water should be 
 made by building a cistern inside the grapery, say four 
 feet deep by eight feet in diameter, or that capacity in an 
 oblong shape would be better. This cistern can be sup- 
 plied by water from the roof, having a waste-pipe for 
 overflow. These general directions for such a structure 
 7 
 
146 
 
 GARDEJTIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 as shown in the cut, are equally applicable for almost any 
 size or kind of grapery. Many are built in tlie form of a 
 *' lean-to/^ that is, placed against any building or fence, 
 using such for the back wall of the grapery. This would 
 necessitate only the low front wall, which need not be 
 more than one foot from the ground, if the width is but 
 ten or twelve feet, but a path would require to be sunk 
 inside to give room to stand upright. The sketch, fig. 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 35 
 
 
 r^"^-^.^^ 
 
 1 I 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 : ^ 
 
 B 
 
 
 1Q ft 
 
 1 
 
 Fig. 60.— LEAN-TO GRAPERY. 
 
 60, shows an outline of a ^^ean-to" grapery twenty feet 
 wide, nine feet high at back and two feet in front. Such 
 a structure, (exclusive of the ^' border,") may be put up 
 roughly at a cost not exceeding $4 per running foot, 
 without heating apparatus. Its aspect may be any point 
 from east to south-west. 
 
 I recollect that some dozen years ago a German jeweler 
 in Jersey City, N". J. , grew a splendid crop of Black Ham- 
 burgs on vines which had been planted against the 
 rear fence of his city lot, by placing against the fence 
 some old sashes eight feet long. It was rather a bung- 
 ling sort of an arrangement and awkward to get at, but 
 it served the purpose of ripening the Hamburg grapes, 
 which could not have been done without the glass. When 
 one contemplates the erection of a complete range of gra- 
 
THE COLD GRAPERY. 147 
 
 peries, tlie services of a competent garden architect should 
 be engaged. The border of the one we have in use was be- 
 gun by excavating the natural soil to the depth of twenty 
 inches and "fifteen feet in width, for the length of the 
 grapery on each side. The inside was left untouched, 
 the borders being entirely outside. The bottom of the 
 excavation was graded from the front of the building to 
 the outside of the borders, with a fall of about an inch 
 to a foot, so that thorough and rapid drainage would be 
 sure to be attained, xit the extremity of each border a 
 drain was built to carry off the water. The whole bot- 
 tom was then cemented over so as to prevent the roots 
 from penetrating the subsoil. This pit was then filled to 
 the depth of about two feet, (four inches being allowed 
 for settling), with a compost which was previously pre- 
 pared by mixing about three parts of turf taken from the 
 surface of a rather shaly jDasture, one part of rotten stable 
 manure, and one part of lime rubbish. 
 
 It is one of the popular errors that vines for graperies 
 should be two or three years old; the age of a vine usually 
 has but little to do with its size, and if grape-vines are 
 properly grown the first year from cuttings, they will be 
 quite as good for planting as if two or three years old. 
 In fact it is a question whether a vine grown from a cut- 
 ting in March, and planted in June, is not quite as good 
 as one a year older. Our experience has shown that there 
 is hardly a perceptible difference in the two at the end of 
 the season ; as such vines, however, are too tender to be 
 shipped far, we generally recommend buying one year old 
 vines that may be planted in April, May, or June, hav- 
 ing ripened shoots about three feet in length. These 
 vines are all grown in pots the previous season, and when 
 received the soil should be shaken off entirely, and the roots 
 spread out in the border without injuring them. The 
 root, it will be understood, is planted outside in the bor- 
 der, and the shoot taken inside, through an opening in 
 
148 GAKDENIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 the walls. This is made of brick or stone, and should be 
 left open at every three feet, the distance at which the 
 vines should be planted ; if the wall is of wood, it can 
 easily be cut to suit the size of the vine. The plants we 
 used were strong one-year-old vines, and were set about 
 June 1st. By October they had grown to over twenty 
 feet in length. The varieties used were nine-tenths 
 Black Hamburg, with a few Muscats and Frontignans, 
 all of which have done exceedingly well. 
 
 In November they were cut back to the bottom of the 
 rafter, or about three feet from the ground, and quickly 
 reached the top again the second year, with firm, well- 
 ripened wood. In November they were again pruned 
 back to about three feet above the foot of the rafter, or 
 six feet from the ground. On this shoot was produced 
 the fruit referred to, (the third year from the time of 
 planting). We prune any time in November or Decem- 
 ber after the leaves have fallen, and cut the shoot back 
 to about four feet from top of the rafter, or about sixteen 
 feet from the ground. 
 
 Every December we lay the vines down along the front 
 wall after being pruned, covering them completely with 
 soil until May, when they are then taken up and tied to 
 the wires, which are ^|jg galvanized iron, and run across 
 the rafters 15 inches apart and 15 inches from the glass. 
 The training followed is what is called the "spur" sys- 
 tem, which is simply to allow one cane or shoot to each 
 rafter, (or at three feet apart), and pruning the side 
 shoots or " bearing wood " annually back to one eye. In 
 the summer treatment of the cold grapery, the principle 
 must never be lost sight of, that to keep the vines in per- 
 fect health, a temperature of not less than 70° at night, 
 with 10° or 15° higher during the day is always necessary. 
 Any rapid variation downward is certain to result in mil- 
 dew. The floor of the grapery should be kept dashed 
 with water at all times, unless in damp weather, from the 
 
THE COLD GRAPERY. 149 
 
 time the buds start in May^ until the fruit begins to 
 ripen in September, except during the period the vines 
 are in flower, when it should be dispensed with until the 
 fruit is set. If the weather is dry, copious watering is 
 necessary for the border outside. The summer pruning 
 of the grapery consists simply in pinching off the laterals, 
 or side shoots which start from where the leaf joins 
 the stem, to one leaf. Every winter three inches of 
 the best well-rotted stable manure is spread over the 
 border, and over that six inches of leaves or lit- 
 ter ; this is raked off in spring, and the manure forked 
 in, the object being to feed the roots from the top of the 
 border. This same treatment vre give our hardy grapes 
 with excellent results. 
 
 I am a good deal of a utilitarian, and am very apt to 
 make even my luxuries *'pay" when it is practicable to 
 do so ; and though we would hardly think of selling our 
 grapes that have been grown for private use, yet I do not 
 scruple to make the glass that shelters them do double 
 duty by using it in winter to shelter our half-hardy roses 
 from ]N"ovember to May. Those that do not make rose- 
 growing a business, as I do, can nevertheless profit by my 
 example, and use the cold grapery for many purposes 
 during the winter months when it is not needed for the 
 grape-vines. Besides roses, all plants of a half-hardy 
 character may be kept there, such as Pomegranates, 
 Crape Myrtles, Pampas Grass, Tritomas, Carnations, etc., 
 care being taken that the pots or tubs in which they are 
 planted are plunged in leaves, tan, or some such sub- 
 stance, so the roots do not freeze. The cold grapery 
 makes an excellent poultry-house in winter, only if put 
 to that use, care must be taken that the buried vines are 
 secure against the scratching of the hens. 
 
150 GAEDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XLVII. 
 
 THE HOT-HOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY. 
 
 When grapes are forced by artificial heat, probably the 
 best plan is that of the "lean-to" structure shown by 
 the illustrations, figs. 61, 62, and 63. Fig. 61 gives the 
 plan, which, as in some former engravings, it is not prac- 
 ticable to show on the page at full length; it is accord- 
 ingly ** fractured" portions, as shown by the irregular 
 lines, being taken out of each compartment ; the figures 
 give the proper proportion. Fig. 62 is a part of the front 
 elevation, and fig. 63, a section at the division between 
 the two houses. The house is 100 feet long by 16 feet 
 wide, divided into two compartments for early and late 
 forcing, each 50x16 feet, and both heated by one boiler 
 with valves in the furnace pit to shut off and taps to draw 
 the water from the pipes not in use ; a matter to be looked 
 to when vineries arc not in use, for if the water is not drawn 
 out of the pipes it may freeze and burst them. When grapes 
 are to be forced, it is essential that a sufficient covering 
 of manure or leaves be placed on the border to prevent 
 frost from reaching the roots, as to apply heat to the vines 
 inside while the roots are frozen, would seriously in- 
 jure them. For very early forcing, when the vines are 
 started as early as January, it is usual not only to put 
 covering enough to secure from frost, but also to 
 slightly ferment, so as to throw some warmth into the 
 border. N^o matter at what season the grapery is started 
 for forcing, the temperature should not run over 50° or 
 55° at night, with a day temperature of 10° or 15° higher, 
 increasing 10° when the buds have opened, which will be 
 in four or five weeks from the time of starting. In five 
 or six weeks the fruit will be set and the temperature is to 
 be raised 10° more. In forcing, moisture is of equal im- 
 
THE HOT-HOUSE OR FORCING GRAPEEY. 
 
 151 
 
 Fig. 61. — PLAN OF FORCING GRAPEEY. 
 
152 
 
 GAEDENIKG FOE PLEASUEE. 
 
 portance with heat, for if this is not attended to, you 
 may expect red-spiders and thrips, and then all your labor 
 may be in vain ; to keep up this moisture, tanks are usu- 
 1 
 
 [3sfe.'^^^fefeS^:^::;^^?fe!£^^ 
 
 Fi^. 62. — ELEVATION OF FKONT OF FOECINQ GRAPERT (iN PART). 
 
 Fig. 63.— SECTION OF FORCING GRAPERT. 
 
 ally placed on the hot-water pipes for graperies, and these 
 are kept filled with water, keeping up a continued evap- 
 oration, except at the time the vines are in flower ; it 
 
THE STEAWBEKKY. 153 
 
 should be then discontinued until the fruit is set. When 
 there is no such arrangement for evajDoration, dash water 
 over the floors and use the syringe. To secure fine berries 
 and bunches, one-third of the berries should be thinned out 
 when of the size of peas, using scissors macfe for this 
 purpose. 
 
 CHAPTEE XLVIII. 
 
 THE STRAWBERRY. 
 
 ♦ 
 
 Of all small fruits, none perhaps stand so high in 
 general favor as the strawberry. Its culture is simple, 
 and as it grows freely in almost any soil or location, no 
 garden of any pretensions should be without it. If 
 a choice of soil can be had, nothing is so suitable as a 
 deep, rich, but rather sandy loam, though it will yield 
 returns sufficient to warrant its cultivation on any soil, 
 from almost pure sand to clay, providing that it is drained 
 naturally or artificially. In all soils, deep spading or 
 plowing is essential to the production of fine crops ; and 
 this should not be less than a foot, and if 18 inches, all 
 the better. A coat of thoroughly rotted stable manure 
 at least three inches in thickness, should be dug in and 
 well mixed with the soil to a depth of six or nine inches. 
 In the absence of stable manure, any of the concentrated 
 fertilizers mentioned in chapter YI, ^^How to Use Con- 
 centrated Fertilizers," used in the manner and quantities 
 there described, will do as a substitute. Where muck 
 from the swamps, or leaf-mold from the woods can be 
 obtained, twenty bushels of either of these mixed with 
 one bushel of ashes, will make an excellent fertilizer for 
 strawberries, and may be spread on as thickly as stable 
 manure, and on sandy soils is probably better. 
 
154 
 
 GARDENING FOE PLEASUKE. 
 
 Strawberries may be planted either in the fall or spring. 
 If the plants are to be set in the fall, it should not be 
 done if possible in this latitude before the middle of Sep- 
 tember. This, of course, refers to the plants from run- 
 ners taken up from the bed in the usual manner, and 
 there is nothing gained in time over planting the next 
 spring, as the plant must grow for one season before it 
 can bear a full crop of fruit. In private gardens it is 
 
 Fig. 64— STRIKING STEAWBEERIES IN POTS. 
 
 much better to have the plants layered in pots, as they 
 may then be set at almost any time. These pets may be 
 from two to three inches in diameter ; when a lot of 
 strawberry plants are wanted for a new bed, all that is 
 necessary to do is to fill these small pots with soil, and 
 ^'plunge " or plant the pot just to the surface level, plac- 
 ing the unrooted *' runner" of the strawberry plant on 
 the top of the soil in the flower-pot, and laying a small 
 ' stone or clod on it to keep it in place. This method of 
 striking in pots is shown in fig. 64. The runners so 
 
THE STEAWBERRT. 155 
 
 treated will form plants in two or three weeks, and may 
 be planted out with safety any time from August to Oc- 
 tober. If strawberry plants are treated in this way, and 
 planted in August, and care taken that all runners that 
 come from them be cut off as soon as formed, so that the 
 whole force of the root is thrown into the main crown, 
 a full crop of berries will be gathered the season follow- 
 ing, or in nine or ten months from time of planting. We 
 have practiced this system of layering strawberry plants 
 in pots for what we need for our own use, for the past 
 twenty years, and the results have been so successful that 
 we have many converts to the system among our neigh- 
 bors. Plants grown in this manner cannot often be ob- 
 tained from the nurseries, as the necessary labor and ex- 
 pense of the pots makes the price five times more than 
 that of ordinary plants rooted in the open bed. When 
 strawberry plants are set out in the fall, unless under 
 favorable circumstances, many wifl fail to grow, for the 
 reason that each young plant or runner is sustained in 
 part by the old plant, and when detached, feels the shock 
 more than a rooted cutting or seedling plant does, that 
 has been growing for weeks on its own account, for that 
 reason we have always advised all that were intending to 
 plant fresh strawberry beds, to prepare their plants a few 
 weeks ahead by layering them in pots. Two to four hun- 
 dred plants are all that an ordinary family will need, and 
 two or three hours' work would be all the time required 
 to layer the plants in the pots. One hundred plants so 
 prepared, will give more fruit the first season than 1,000 
 plants planted in the usual way, and the plant forms 
 a stool quicker, and much less time is expended in keep- 
 ing them clean. The use of layered plants is recom- 
 mended specially for fall planting, and the sooner it is 
 done in fall the better ; plant in August if possible. 
 
 In spring the use of potted plants would have no spe- 
 cial advantage, as if planted in April or May, they would 
 
156 GAEDEKING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 have all tiie summer to grow, but of course no fruit can 
 be expected the season of planting. Tor this reason, it 
 will be seen that to secure a crop quickly, the time to 
 plant is in August or September, and from plants that 
 have been layered in pots. There is no arbitrary rule for 
 the distance apart at which strawberry plants should be 
 set, but if the ground has been prepared as advised, 
 the finest fruit will be had by giving them plenty of 
 room. For our own use we usually set 400 plants annu- 
 ally in August, at two feet apart between the rows, and 
 eighteen inches between the plants, and gather about 200 
 quarts of splendid fruit. If the ground is limited they 
 may be planted at half the above distance, particularly if 
 set late in fall. There is one very important point in 
 strawberry culture that should never be neglected ; that 
 is, that the beds be entirely covered with hay, straw, or 
 leaves, to the depth of three or four inches. This cov- 
 ering should not be put on, however, before the approach 
 of severe weather, in this district about the middle of De- 
 cember. This coveriDg should not be taken off in spring ; 
 it is only necessary to go over the beds as soon as growth 
 begins in spring, and pull the covering back from the 
 plants only sufficient to expose the crown, allowing all to 
 remain on the bod. This covering serves several purpo- 
 ses. It keeps the roots warm until the plants start to 
 grow, it keeps the fruit clean when ripe, it prevents the 
 growth of weeds, and finally acts as a mulch to keep the 
 soil from drying in hot weather. Although strawberry 
 beds will remain in bearing for a number of years, the 
 fruit is always largest and finest the first season of bear- 
 ing, gradually getting smaller as the plants get older, 
 hence it is desirable to provide for a succession, if not 
 every year, at least every second year. For garden cul- 
 ture in this, as in all other fruits, it is unwise to use any 
 but fully tested varieties, three or four of which are 
 sufficient. 
 
THE STRAWBERRY. 157 
 
 VARIETIES OF THE STRAWBERRY. 
 
 Triomphe de Qand is one of the favorite varieties ; it is 
 of large size, fine flavor, and a fair bearer. It requires a 
 heavy soil. 
 
 Wilso7i's Seedliiig is a variety better known than any 
 other sort ; it bears large crops, but is very sour. It is 
 much used for preserving. 
 
 Champion. — A berry of an immense size, and beautiful 
 dark crimson appearance, an abundant bearer, but not 
 so rich in flavor as some others. 
 
 Charles Downing, — This variety is likely to take the 
 place of the Wilson, as it has all the productiveness of 
 that ; succeeds on all soils, and a much better berry. 
 
 Kentucky. — Is the latest variety, and by planting it 
 with earlier sorts, will extend the season several days. 
 
 Black Defiance. — This is a first-class fruit in every re- 
 spect, large, productive, and of high flavor ; while its 
 dark color unfits it for market, it is one of the best for 
 the private garden. 
 
 8eth Boyden.—OTiQ of the largest berries, very produc- 
 tive, sweet, but not very high flavored ; its long neck 
 allows it to be hulled very readily. 
 
 FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 
 
 Those who have a greenhouse often wish to force straw- 
 berries into fruit several weeks in advance of the time 
 that they will be ripe in the open air. It may be done in 
 a frame or pit. The young runners must be first layered 
 in pots, as already described, as early as runners are 
 formed, and as soon as the small pots are filled with roots, 
 they must be shifted into larger ones, say six inches in 
 diameter, the runners being pinched off as they appear, 
 so as to throw the whole strength of the plant into the 
 fruiting crown. The soil in which to pot strawberries for 
 
158 GARDENIN^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 forcing is the one we recommend for nearly all plants ; 
 three parts rotted sods, and one part rotted manure. 
 The potted strawberries should be placed on boards, 
 flagging, or a layer of coal ashes, to prevent the earth- 
 worms from getting in at the bottom of the pots. At 
 first, after being shifted, they should be set closely to- 
 gether, but as they grow they must be spread apart, as it 
 is necessary that the air pass around the pots to ripen the 
 roots. Of course the necessary attention to water is aS 
 important with these as with other plants in pots. They 
 may thus stand in the open air until November, when 
 the pots may be plunged in dry leaves to prevent their be- 
 ing broken by frost ; and the tops also covered an inch or 
 two with the same material ; as cold weather advances, 
 they may be taken in at intervals of two weeks or so and 
 placed on the shelves of a greenhouse, near the glass, 
 where the temperature will average at night 50 degrees, 
 and if due attention to watering has been given, a crop 
 will be the result, such as will well repay the labor, 
 not only as fruit, but the plants so loaded will them- 
 selves be beautiful greenhouse ornaments. Good vari- 
 eties for forcing are Triomphe de Grand and Champion, 
 
 RASPBERRY. 
 
 To have the Easpberry in perfection, the same prepara- 
 tion of soil is necessary as for the Strawberry. The canes 
 or shoots of the Easpberry are biennial ; that is, the cane 
 or shoot that is formed one season, bears fruit the next 
 season, and dies off after fruiting, giving place to the 
 young cane that is to fruit the following season, and 
 so on. The distances apart to plant the Easpberry for 
 garden culture, may be, if in rows, five feet apart, with 
 the plants two feet apart in the row, or if in separate 
 stools or hills, they may be set four feet each way. If 
 planted at distances of four feet apart, three plants may 
 be put in each *^ hill," which will quicker secure a crop. 
 
EASPBEEET. 159 
 
 They may be set either in fall or in spring ; if in fall, a 
 covering of four or five inches of litter should be spread 
 over the roots to prevent them from getting too much 
 frozen. And even when the plants are established and 
 growing, it is necessary in many cold sections, to bend 
 down the canes and cover them with pine branches or 
 some covering that will shield them from severe freezing. 
 On the large scale the canes are bent down and covered 
 with a few inches of earth, an operation that may be 
 rapidly performed by two persons. One bends down the 
 
 Fig. 65.— LA.TING DOWN EASPBEKEY CANES. 
 
 canes, (using a pitchfork or other implement), as shown 
 in the accompanying diagram, (fig. 65), while the other 
 throws sufficient earth near the tips to hold the canes in 
 place ; after a row is thus bent over, the two go back 
 and cover with earth more completely. All the 
 pruning that is necessary for the Raspberry is to 
 thin out the shoots in each hill to four or six ; this 
 is best done in the summer after the fruit is gathered, and 
 at the same time the old canes that have borne the 
 fruit should be cut out, so that the young shoots, coming 
 forward to do duty next season, may have room to grow 
 freely, and develop and ripen the wood. When the leaves 
 drop in fall, the canes may be shortened down a foot or 
 so, which will complete the pruning process. To get the 
 full benefit of all the fruit, it is very necessary to stake 
 the Raspberry, this may be done either by tying the canes 
 of each plant separately to a stout stake, driven two feet 
 
160 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 or SO in the ground, or if grown in rows they may be 
 tied to wires running along the rows ; the wires should 
 be stretched between two stout posts, one at each end of 
 the row, and three feet more or less above the ground, 
 according to variety ; to prevent the wire from sagging, 
 stakes should be driven into the ground directly under it, 
 at intervals of six or ten feet ; the wire is attached to 
 these by means of staples placed over it and driven into 
 the ends of the 
 stakes. The di- 
 agram, fig. 66, 
 shows the meth- 
 od of training 
 to the wire { the 
 longer canes at 
 the right and 
 left are the 
 canes which are 
 to fruit the cur- 
 rent year ; these 
 are tied out as 
 there shown, 
 while the new 
 shoots, which 
 
 Fig. 66. — TEAINING RASPBERRIES TO A WIRE. 
 
 are to furnish canes for the next year's fruiting, grow up 
 in the center, and as soon as tall enough are tied to the 
 wire ; after the outer canes have fruited, they are cut 
 away to give the others more room. 
 
 The varieties are very numerous, those named below 
 are such as will be most satisfactory for private use. 
 From 100 to 200 hills or plants, of all varieties, will usu- 
 ally be sufficient for most families. 
 
 Fastolff. — A large crimson fruit of delicious flavor. 
 
 BrincJcle^s Orange. — An orange colored berry of large 
 size, very productive, and of excellent flavor. 
 
 Clarice. — Not quite so large as the Fastolff, but of 
 
BLACKBERRY. 161 
 
 strong, robust habit, enduring well the extremes of heat 
 and cold. 
 
 PMladelpMcL — One of the hardiest and most produc- 
 tive, growing in soils and situations where the others 
 would fail. It is of rather poor quality, but is useful for 
 the above reasons. 
 
 CataiDissa. — A fall-bearing variety of medium size, 
 color purplish crimson, medium flavor. 
 
 BLACK CAPS. 
 
 Black-caps or Black Raspberries have become very 
 popular of late years, many persons being fond of their 
 peculiar flavor. They belong to a distinct species from 
 the ordinary Easpberries ; the plants make no suckers, 
 but propagate themselves by taking root at the ends of 
 the long branches, which in the fall, if allowed to grow 
 at will, bend over and reach the earth. They throw up 
 shoots from the base of the plant which take the place of 
 those which have already borne a crop. In gardens 
 where there is no desire to propagate the plants, the 
 growing shoots should be pinched off when they get 
 three or four feet high, and any side-shoots they may 
 throw off are stopped by pinching when they are about 
 18 inches long. The bearing wood is thinned out after 
 the fruit is off. 
 
 Mammotli Cluster is considered the most productive 
 of all the numerous varieties. 
 
 Tliornless. — This is preferable to the others in being 
 nearly free from spines, and though the fruit is not quite 
 so large, it is much more easily gathered. 
 
 BLACKBERRY. 
 
 The cultivation of the Blackberry is nearly similar to 
 that of the Raspberry, except that it should be planted 
 about one-third farther apart, and it being hardier, there 
 is no need for covering it in winter. As it has a more 
 
162 GARDENIN'G FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 vigorous growth, it is sometimes set in any out of the 
 way corner, and in almost any soil ; but it will amply 
 repay generous cultivation with finer fruit. The man- 
 ner of growth is the same as the Easpberry, and when 
 the fruit is picked, the old canes are to be cut out to give 
 the new ones a chance. The new shoots are very vigorous 
 growers, and when they reach the hight of five, or at 
 most, six feet, they should be stopped by pinching ; this 
 will cause an abundance of side shoots to start which are 
 to be pinched when about 18 inches long. This treat- 
 ment increases the productiveness of the plants and keeps 
 the frnit within reach. The bushes should be kept tied 
 to stout stakes or wires, as advised for the Easpberry. 
 
 The following are a few of the popular kinds : 
 
 Kittatiniiy. — An immensely large berry of excellent 
 flavor, of deep, shiny black color, one of the very best 
 for family use. 
 
 Wilson^ s Early. — One of the earliest varieties, ripen- 
 ing a week or more before the Kittatinny, quite as large, 
 and of excellent quality. 
 
 Cut-leaved. — The merit of this variety is its lateness of 
 ripening, coming in just when the others are done fruit- 
 ing. It is of large size, and esteemed by many, while 
 others do not like its very distinct and peculiar flavor. 
 
 CUKRANTS. 
 
 The Currant is useful both for dessert and for preserv- 
 ing purposes. An immense weight of fruit is obtained 
 for the space it occupies, and the ease of its culture makes 
 it common in every garden. The red and white varieties 
 of Currants may be planted three or four feet apart each 
 way, the black at four or five feet apart. Pruning is 
 done in fall by cutting off about one-third of the young 
 growth of the previous summer, and thinning out old 
 shoots when the plant gets too thick. All are trained in 
 
GOOSEBEEKY. 163 
 
 low bush form, the whites and reds usually from three to 
 four feet high and wide, and the black four to six feet. 
 An insect known as the currant-worm is often very de- 
 structive. On its first appearance, if confined to a few 
 leaves, these should be cut off, shoot and all, and de- 
 stroyed. If they threaten to be troublesome, powdered 
 white Hellebore, either dusted on, or mixed four ounces 
 to a pailful of water and applied with a syringe, will de- 
 stroy them at once. 
 
 Blaclc Naples. — This is the favorite black variety, and 
 is used almost exclusively for jams and jellies. The 
 black varieties are much less grown here than in Europe, 
 but the taste for them is increasing. 
 
 Red Dutch. — Color of berries deep red, of average size, 
 flavor excellent. 
 
 Wliite Grape. — Berries large, of a yellowish-white 
 color. The flavor of this variety is less acid than any 
 other ; excellent for dessert. 
 
 Versailles. — The fruit much larger than the Eed 
 Dutch, and the best flavored of all the large-berried kinds. 
 
 Cherry. — Berries larger than that of any other sort, 
 but too acid for most tastes ; only suitable for jelly, 
 
 GOOSEBERKY. 
 
 The Gooseberry is a fruit better suited for the climate 
 of Britain than for ours, and it is never seen here in the 
 perfection it attains there. It ripens just when our hot- 
 test weather occurs, forcing it unnaturally to maturity, 
 and hence the absence of the size and flavor it attains 
 when ripened at a lower temperature. The native varie- 
 ties, though far inferior in quality, are usually more free 
 from mildew, and are therefore most desirable for culti- 
 vation here, as the fruit with us is more used in the green 
 than in the ripe state. Gooseberries are planted from 
 
104 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 three to four feet apart, and are treated in all other re- 
 spects like Currant bushes. 
 
 Downing. — A native variety of medium size, greenish- 
 white when ripe, excellent quality. 
 
 Houghton^ s Seedling, — Also a native variety, size me- 
 dium, color red, flavor average. 
 
 Of the foreign varieties among Reds may be named as 
 leading sorts, Warrington, Champion, Waterloo; of 
 Greens, Green Globe, Melville, Green Gage ; of Yelloivs, 
 Sulphur, Champagne, Golden Drop ; of. Whites, Crystal, 
 Whitesmith, Dutch. 
 
 FIGS. 
 
 The Fig on account of it not being hardy in the north- 
 ern states, is but little cultivated unless in tubs, which 
 are placed in cellars or sheds to protect them during the 
 winter months, or occasionally on the back wall of lean- 
 to graperies ; but in all parts of the country where the 
 thermometer does not get lower than twenty degrees 
 above zero, they can be grown freely in the open air 
 without protection. It is hardly ever necessary to prune 
 the Fig, except to regulate its shape by cutting back any 
 extra strong shoots. In sections of the country such as 
 Maryland, or West Virginia, or Delaware, where it may 
 require slight protection when grown in the open air, it 
 should be planted against a wall or fence, and trained 
 against it ; 'on the approach of cold weather it should be 
 laid down and covered as recommended for hardy grapes. 
 When grown in tubs to be kept in cellars, sheds, or green- 
 house pits, they should be placed under cover in this 
 latitude early in November, kept as dry as possible with- 
 out shrivelling, and set out in the open air again in 
 May. The soil and general treatment for plants grown 
 in the open air in pots or tubs will be suitable for them. 
 
QUINCE — CHERRY. 165 
 
 There are numerous sorts in cultivation from which we 
 select the following : 
 
 WJiite Genoa. — Large roundish, yellow skin ; flesh red- 
 ish-pink, excellent flavor. 
 
 Brown Turhey. — Pear shaped, average size, brown 
 skin ; flesh red, rich flavor. 
 
 Early Fio/e^f.— Skin brownish-red; flesh reddish-crim- 
 son, delicious flavor; fruit rather small; one of the hardiest. 
 
 Broiun Iscliia. — Size large, skin yellowish-brown ; flesh 
 violet, sweet and luscious, very prolific. 
 
 QUINCE. 
 
 A few Quince trees should be planted m every garden 
 where there is any pretension to a collection of fruits. It 
 is a tree requiring but little attention, and for that reason 
 is often neglected, and very unsightly specimens are seen. 
 The tree is very ornamental in flower and fruit, and by a 
 little attention to pruning, a handsome head may be 
 formed, though equally luxuriant crops are seen on 
 trees that have been untouched for years.^ They may be 
 planted eight or ten feet apart. In varieties the kind in 
 most general use is the 
 
 Apple-shaped or Orange. — A large round variety, 
 bright golden-yellow. 
 
 Pear-shaped is larger, color greenish-yellow, and its 
 shape being more pear-like, readily distinguishes it from 
 the other and better variety. 
 
 Eea's Seedling. — A variety not very abundant as yet, 
 is the largest and finest of all. 
 
 CHERRY. 
 
 The Cherry-tree begins to bear usually in two or three 
 years after planting trees of the size sold at the nurseries. 
 
166 GARDEi^ING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 and continues to annually enlarge in growtli and produc- 
 tiveness until it often attains a larger size than most of 
 our fruit-trees. The Cherry grows freely in almost any 
 soil that is free from moisture, preferring, however, like 
 most other fruits, a deep loamy soil. The tree may he 
 trained as desired, either in pyramidal form or with a 
 round top, by pruning and directing the shoots. The 
 distance apart may be ten or twelve feet. Varieties : 
 
 Blach Tartarian. — Deep purplish -black, very large ; 
 fine flesh, unsurpassed in quality ; last of June. 
 
 Rochport. — Very large, amber-yellow, dotted red ; flesh 
 firm, sweet and excellent ; ripens in June. 
 
 Coe^s Transparent. — Color pale-amber-yellow ; spotted 
 with pink ; flesh tender, sweet, and of fine flavor ; ripens 
 middle of June. 
 
 May Buke. — Color dark-red, size medium, quality ex- 
 cellent ; ripens early in June. 
 
 Morello. — A sub-acid variety of medium size, color 
 bright-red, changing to darker color when fully ripe ; 
 hangs long on the tree, mainly used for pies and pre- 
 serving. 
 
 PLUM. 
 
 The cultivation of the Plum is rendered nearly useless 
 in most places by the attacks of the Curculio, or Plum 
 Weevil. Every conceivable application to the trees has 
 been tried without any satisfactory result. The only 
 thing which will effectually save a crop in the districts 
 infested by this insect, is to jar the tree in the morning 
 or in cool days, first spreading sheets under the trees to 
 catch the weevils, after which they may be burned. If 
 this is begun as soon as the plums are formed, and per- 
 sisted in every few days until they are ripe, a large share of 
 the crop may be saved. This may be thought to be pay- 
 ing rather dear for a crop of plums, but it is really the 
 
PLUM. 167 
 
 only way it can be secured. Many years ago the crop of 
 a plum orchard under our charge numbering oyer a hun- 
 dred large trees, was saved by this process, while all other 
 plums in the district where the jarring of the trees was 
 not resorted to, were completely destroyed. This plan 
 was recommended nearly half a century ago, and no 
 other practicable method has since been presented. 
 It has been recommended by some to plant the trees on 
 the bank of a pond or running stream, and train them to 
 overhang the water, also to pave or cement around the 
 roots so that the insect cannot burrow, but these plans 
 would be often impossible, and are useless. Trees upon 
 stiff, clayey soils are more exempt from the ravages of the 
 Curculio than those upon light ones, probably for the 
 reason that the insect in the grub or larvae state cannot 
 penetrate them so readily, as they must enter the ground 
 to become perfect insects. The average distance at which 
 the Plum may be planted is from ten to twelve feet. The 
 following are distinct and fine sorts. 
 
 Orleans. — Color purple, with a rich blue bloom, size 
 medium ; flesh deep yellow, flavor of first quahty ; cling- 
 stone ; ripens in August. 
 
 Wasliiiigton. — Color yellow, marbled with red next the 
 sun ; large size ; flesh firm, sweet, and rich ; freestone ; 
 ripens first of September. 
 
 Green Gage. — A well known variety, rather small in 
 size, but of exquisite flavor, color greenish-yellow, spotted 
 with red on the sunny side ; freestone ; ripens early in 
 August. 
 
 ColumUa. — Of the largest size, color brownish-purple ; 
 flesh yellow, sweet, and finely flavored ; freestone ; ripens 
 the last of August. 
 
 Golden Drop. — A very old and well known sort, color 
 golden-yellow with red spots next the sun ; large, oval ; 
 
168 GAEDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 rich and sweet yellowish flesh ; clingstone ; ripens middle 
 of September. 
 
 PEACH. 
 
 The Peach prefers the light, dry, and warm soils, 
 known as sandy loams. The tree is shortlived in most 
 sections, and attains its best fruiting condition usually 
 when from five to nine years old. The tree is greatly 
 benefitted by pruning ; the growth of the previous sea- 
 son should be shortened about one-third ; this, if annually 
 followed from the time the trees are set, will give them 
 compact heads instead of open, straggling ones, the 
 branches of which will break down with the first full 
 crop of fruit. In the peach-growing districts the culti- 
 vators do not expect more than three crops in five years, 
 and if they get two full crops in that time they are con- 
 tent, and amateurs should expect no more. When a crop 
 sets at all there is usually more fruit than the tree can 
 carry and ripen ; no fruit needs severe thinning more 
 than the peach. In bearing seasons half or two-thirds of 
 those which set may be removed with benefit to the rest. 
 When a tree appears sickly with yellow foliage, dig it up 
 at once. The distance apart may be from eight to ten 
 feet. Among the favorite varieties for garden culture 
 may be named 
 
 Early Beatrice. — One of Mr. Eivers' seedlings, and so 
 far as tried in this country promises to be a valuable 
 early sort ; its size is small, but quality good ; freestone. 
 
 Hale's Early. — A very early peach, of fair size and 
 great beauty, but has the fault that it in some localities 
 rots just as it begins to ripen, a difficulty probably due to 
 overbearing rather than to locality ; freestone, excellent. 
 
 ColumUa. — Large, round, color yellow and red, 
 streaked with dark-crimson ; flesh yellow, rich, and juicy, 
 flavor excellent ; freestone ; ripens in September, ♦ 
 
NECTARINES. IGO 
 
 Craioford^s Early, — Large, roundish, color yellow, 
 tinged with red ; flesh yellow, rich, and sweet ; ripens 
 last of August ; freestone. 
 
 Crawford'' s Late, — Similar in appearance, but ripening 
 three weeks later. 
 
 Cooledge^s Favorite. — Size medium, roundish oval, 
 color clear white with crimson cheek ; flesh rich, juicy, 
 and of first quality ; ripens in August ; freestone. 
 
 Honest John, ov Early YorTc. — Large, roundish, white 
 with red cheek ; flesh white, very juicy, excellent flavor ; 
 middle of August; freestone. 
 
 Morris White. — A well known variety, size medium, 
 color greenish-white, flavor average. The variety mostly 
 used for preserving ; middle of September ; freestone. 
 
 Malacatitne. — Fruit large, yellow, with dark red cheek ; 
 flesh orange-yellow, flavor excellent ; middle of Septem- 
 ber ; freestone. 
 
 NECTAEINES. 
 
 Nectarines are only smooth skinned peaches, requiring 
 in all respects similar treatment to the peach. They are 
 but little grown in this country, as they are equally Ha- 
 ble to injury by the attacks of the Plum Curculio, with 
 the Plum itself. The same treatment recommended 
 for its destruction in Plums, must be applied to the 
 Nectarine. There is a peculiarity in the flavor of some 
 varieties of Nectarines differing from that of any of the 
 peaches, and by some they are greatly preferred to any 
 peach in flavor. The successful varieties are not numerous. 
 
 Early Newington. — Large, roundish oval, greenish- 
 yellow mottled red ; flesh yellowish-white ; September ; 
 cling. 
 
 Hunfs Tawny. — Large, round, amber-yellow with red 
 cheek ; flesh orange, melting, flavor excellent ; ripens in 
 August ; freestone. 
 8 
 
t 
 
 170 garde:n^ing for pleasure. 
 
 Boston. — Large, oval, yellow with mottled crimson 
 cheek ; flesh yellow, excellent quality ; September ; free- 
 stone. 
 
 APRICOT. 
 
 The Apricot is closely related to the peach, but belongs 
 to another species ; it is less juicy, and has a flavor 
 quite distinct from, and by some preferred to, that of the 
 peach. The blighting Curculio attacks the Apricot also, 
 and its culture can only be successful by combating the 
 difficulties that attend that of the plum, unless in special 
 locations that seem few and far between. The varieties are 
 
 Moorparh. — Size large as an average peach, yellow 
 with red cheek ; flesh orange, sweet, and of exquisite 
 flavor ; ripens in July. 
 
 Orange. — Pale yellow with red cheek, size medium ; 
 ripens end of July. 
 
 Turlcey. — Large, deep yellow, shaded orange ; flesh 
 pale-yellow, firm, rich, and sweet ; ripens in August. 
 
 APPLE. 
 
 The apple can only be grown in gardens as a dwarf, 
 either kept in a bush form or trained as a pyramid or 
 other shape. The dwarf trees are made so by grafting on 
 dwarfing stocks, while the varieties are the same as those 
 found in the large trees of the orchard. Two sorts of 
 dwarfing stocks are used by nurserymen, the Doucin and 
 Paradise. Trees upon the Doucin will ultimately grow 
 quite large, and as the Paradise is the only stock which 
 makes really dwarf trees, the amateur who wishes to 
 grow dwarf apple-trees should make sure that they are 
 worked on Paradise stocks. Of course trees of this kind 
 are not advised as a source of fruit, but there can scarcely 
 be a handsomer object in the garden than a bush three 
 fegt high, and about the same through, loaded with enor^ 
 
APPLE — PEARS. 171 
 
 mous apples. Dwarf apple-trees may be planted six 
 feet apart each way, while ordinary trees in the orchard 
 are given 15 to 30 feet, or even 40 feet. The following 
 sorts are recommended for garden culture. For descrip- 
 tions see nursery catalogues. Eed Astrachan, Alexander, 
 Sweet Bough, Fall Pippin, Gravenstein, Maiden's Blush, 
 Porter, Rambo, Northern Spy, Mother, Twenty Ounce, 
 Beauty of Kent, Hawthornden, Spitzenberg, Jonathan, 
 King of Tompkins County, Keswick Codlin, Lady Apple, 
 Red Canada, Swaar. 
 
 PEAKS, 
 
 Like apples, are grown as dwarfs and standards. The 
 former being planted from eight to ten feet apart, the 
 latter from ten to twelve feet. The dwarfs, budded on 
 the quince stock, are mostly used for garden culture, as 
 from their habit they are more suitable, besides having 
 the invaluable quality of coming quicker into bearing. 
 Time was when the adage went, '' He that plants pears, 
 plants for his heirs," but this is now no more applicable 
 to the pear than to the peach, for we now have fine crops 
 of pears budded on the quince in three to five years from 
 the time of planting. The trees may be grown as 
 pyramids, or in the bush form, or in small gardens, 
 pear, peach, and other trees are successfully trained 
 in what is called the oblique cordon, which allows 
 a number of varieties to be grown in a small space. 
 Only a general outline of the method can be given 
 here, referring for fuller details to Barry's and other 
 works on fruit culture. A trellis is built about 8 feet 
 high, by nailing a strong top and bottom rail to posts, 
 which should be about 8 feet apart. Slats of inch 
 stuff are put on between the two rails at an angle of 30° ; 
 these are fastened on with screws, as when the trees 
 have reached the top, the slats are to be brought down to 
 45°, and they should be long enough to allow for doing 
 
172 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 this. Young trees are set in an inclined position in a 
 line with these slats, which are three feet apart. Each 
 tree is cut back to a few buds, and one shoot allowed to 
 grow from the strongest bud, all the others being re- 
 moved. This shoot as it grows is kept tied to the slat, 
 and when it throws out side-shoots, as it soon will, 
 they are pinched back to three or four leaves, whenever 
 the shoot is sufficiently developed to allow the number 
 of the leaves to be seen. By growing in this inclined 
 
 Fig. 67.— COKDON-TRAINING OF PEAR TREES. 
 
 position, and by pinching every shoot back to three or 
 four leaves, the tree is dwarfed and made to bear early, 
 and when properly managed, forms a perfect cordon or 
 garland, with fruit along its whole length. Fig. 67 
 shows a portion of a trellis of this kind. The following 
 varieties are recommended for either kind of training. 
 For descriptions see nursery catalogues. Bartlett, Beurre 
 d'Anjou, Duchesse d'Angoul^me, Lawrence, Clapp's 
 Favorite, Beurre Bosc, Dana's Hovey, Vicar of Wink- 
 field, Howell, XJrbaniste, Seckel, Winter Nelis, Brandy- 
 wine, Doyenne d' Ete, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Belle 
 Lucrative, Doyenne Boussock. 
 
VEGETABLE G-ARDEN 
 
COTTAGE GARDEJ^Iiq^G — A DIGEESSION. 175 
 
 CHAPTER XLIX. 
 
 COTTAGE GARDENING— A DIGRESSION. 
 
 Before taking up the subject of vegetable culture, I 
 will relate an incident connected with cottage gardening 
 that may interest if it does not benefit some of those into 
 whose hands this book may fall. About a dozen years ago 
 I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a gen- 
 tleman whose duties compelled him to be at his desk in 
 a close office in the City of New York, from 9 o'clock a. m. 
 to 4 P.M. Being naturally of a weak constitution, his 
 sedentary life soon made him the victim of dyspepsia to 
 such a degree that he felt that he must soon resign his 
 situation. He was then a man of forty, entirely ignorant 
 of anything pertaining to country life, and it was with 
 great misgivings and reluctance that, by the advice of 
 his physician, he changed his home from a closely built 
 part of New York to a cottage in the then country-like 
 suburb of Bergen Heights, IST. J. His means enabled 
 him to purchase a modest cottage built on a lot 50 by 
 150 feet ; he did not want the land, he said, but the cot- 
 tage was such as he fancied, and the ground had to go 
 with it. It was about this time that I formed his ac- 
 quaintance, through some business transaction, and he 
 asked my professional advice as to what he could do with 
 his land, which he had already begun to consider some- 
 what of an incumbrance. I replied to him that, if I was 
 not greatly mistaken, in his little plot of ground lay a 
 cure for all his bodily ills, and that besides it could add 
 to the comforts if not the luxuries of his table if he would 
 only work it. '' I work it !" he exclaimed. '^ You don't 
 suppose that these hands could dig or delve," holding up 
 his thin and bloodless fingers, ''and if they could I know 
 
176 GAKDENIliG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 nothing about gardening." I told him I thought neither 
 objection insurmountable if he once begun. 
 
 The result of our conversation was, that he resolved to 
 try, and try he did to a purpose. Our interview was in 
 March, and before the end of April he had his lot all 
 nicely dug over, the labor being done by his own hands 
 during an hour and a half each morning. His custom 
 was to get up at six o'clock and work at his garden until 
 half past seven. This gave him ample time to dress, get 
 breakfast, and be at his desk in the city by nine. The 
 labor of merely digging was (to him) heavy and rather 
 monotonous, but he stuck to it bravely, and when he 
 again presented himself before me for plants and seeds 
 and information as to what to do with them, it was with 
 some pride that I saw my prescription had worked so 
 well, for my friend then looked more like a farmer than 
 a pallid clerk. The regulating of his little garden was a 
 simple matter, and was done according to the following 
 diagram : 
 
 Cauliflower, cabbage and lettuce. : 
 
 Strawberries. 
 
 Cucumbers, onions, and parsley. : 
 
 Raspberries. 
 
 Beets, carrots, and parsnips. : 
 
 Tomatoes. 
 
 Bush beans. : 
 
 Asparagus and Rhubarb. 
 
 During his first season, of course, he made some blun- 
 ders and some failures, but his interest in the work in- 
 creased year by year. His family was supplied with an 
 abundance of all the fresh vegetables and fruits his lim- 
 ited space could admit of being grown — a supply that it 
 would have taken at least $150 to purchase at retail, and 
 stale at that. But the benefit derived from the cultiva- 
 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEiq-. 177 
 
 tion of this cottage garden was health — strong, rugged 
 health — that for the six years he was my neighbor, never 
 once failed him. 
 
 I know this case is an extremely exceptional one, for I 
 never knew another man who so resolutely worked him- 
 self into health. There are hundreds of business men, 
 book-keepers, salesmen, clerks, and the like who live in 
 the suburbs of all great cities, many of whom can ill 
 afford to pay for the keeping of the plots surrounding 
 their cottages, but who think they can far less afford to 
 do the work themselves. As a consequence, in nine cases 
 out of ten, the rear, at least, of their suburban plots is a 
 wilderness of weeds. But this is not the least of tlie 
 evils, the owner has a certain amount of muscular force, 
 and this, be it more or less, being unused, its possessor 
 pays the penalty of his laziness in dyspepsia, and a host 
 of other ills. The proofs are apparent everywhere that 
 garden operations are conducive to health and longevity. 
 The work is not unduly laborious, and when fairly en- 
 tered into has a never-failing interest. The growing and 
 the watching of the great variety of plants gives a 
 healthy tone to the mind, while the physical labor de- 
 manded by cultivation takes care of the body. 
 
 CHAPTER L. 
 
 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
 
 It is perhaps best that the space allotted to vegetables 
 should be at one side of the garden, and that for fruits 
 at the other, at least in the beginning, though a rotation 
 of crops or change of position may be advantageous in 
 course of time. I will give in brief the culture of each 
 
178 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 vegetable in general use, placing them alphabetically for 
 easy reference, and enumerate the leading varieties. 
 
 ASPARAGUS— (J-sparogrws officiTialis.) 
 
 Asparagus should be planted the first spring that the 
 owner comes into possession of the land, and if the house 
 is yet to be built, let the Asparagus-bed be planted at 
 once, as it takes the roots two or three years to acquire 
 sufficient strength to give a crop. For an ordinary family 
 a bed of six rows of fifty or sixty feet in length, and three 
 feet apart, will be sufficient, the plants in the rows 
 being set nine inches apart. In planting it is custo- 
 mary to use two-year-old plants, but it often happens 
 that as large a plant is raised from seed in good 
 soils in one year as in a poorer soil in two years ; in 
 such cases the one-year-old plant is preferable. The 
 preparation of the Asparagus bed should be made with 
 more care than for most vegetables, from the fact that 
 it is a permanent crop which ought to yield as well at 
 the end of twenty-five as of five years, if the soil has been 
 well prepared. The asparagus bed, to start with, should 
 be on ground thoroughly drained, either naturally or ar- 
 tificially, and if choice can be had, on a rather light sandy 
 loam. This should be trenched and mixed with suffi- 
 cient manure to form a coating of at least six inches 
 thick over the bed ; this manure should be worked into 
 the soil by trenching to the depth of two feet, as the roots 
 of the plant will reach quite that depth in a few years. 
 In setting, the crowns of the plants should be placed at 
 least three inches below the surface. It makes but little 
 difference whether it is planted in spring or fall ; if in 
 spring, it should be done as early as the ground is dry 
 enough to work, and if in fall, just as soon as the 
 plants can be had, which is usually in the early part 
 of October. We prefer fall planting on light, well- 
 
ASPARAGUS. 
 
 179 
 
 drained soils, for the reason that if it is done then, young 
 roots are formed, which are ready to grow on the ap- 
 proach of spring, but if the planting is done in March or 
 April, this formation of new roots has to take place then, 
 and causes a corresjDonding delay in growth. Plants are 
 sold by market gardeners and seedsmen, and as it will 
 save a year or two, to purchase them, it is not worth 
 while to raise them from seed in a private garden. The 
 edible portion is the undeveloped sfcems, which if cut 
 away as soon as they appear, are followed by others, 
 which start from the crown of the plant. The cutting. 
 
 Fig. 68.— ASPAEAGUS. 
 
 if continued too long, would finally exhaust the root, 
 hence it is customary to stop cutting as soon as early peas 
 become plenty, and allow the remaining shoots to grow 
 during the remainder of the season, and thus accumulate 
 sufficient strength in the plant to allow it to produce an- 
 other 'crop of shoots the next season. The engraving, 
 (fig. 68), represents a strong plant with the earth re- 
 
180 
 
 GAEDEI^riKG FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 moved from the roots ; the shoots are shown in different 
 stages of deyelopment, and it will be seen how readily 
 careless cutting may injure the buds which are ready to 
 produce a succession of shoots. 
 
 The surface of the Aspargus bed should have a top- 
 dressing of three or four inches of rough stable manure 
 every fall, (November), 
 which should be lightly 
 forked into the bed in 
 spring. The best variety 
 is what is known as 
 "Van Sicklen's Colos- 
 sal." In some localities 
 Asparagus is attacked 
 by an insect called the 
 Asparagus Beetle. The 
 best method of getting 
 rid of this pest, that we 
 have found, is to coop 
 up a hen and let the 
 chickens pick up the 
 insects and their eggs. 
 
 ARTICHOKE-GLOBE— 
 
 {Cynara Scolymus.) 
 
 The portion used of 
 this plant is the unde- 
 veloped flower cluster, 
 or the portion which is known as the scales of the 
 involucre. They are boiled and served with drawn 
 butter, but outside of France do not seem to be very 
 generally appreciated. The plants are propagated first 
 by seeds, sown in a hot-bed in March, and planted out 
 at distances of from two to three feet. It is not 
 always hardy enough for our winters in the northern 
 states, though it proves so in all latitudes south of Wash- 
 
 Fig. 09.— GLOBE ARTICHOKE. 
 
ARTICHOKE — BEAl!^. 181 
 
 ington. Here it is necessary on the approach of winter 
 to draw the leaves together and earth up around them, 
 and later to coyer the tops with litter. 
 
 ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM.— (Eelianthus tuberosus.) 
 
 This is an entirely different plant from the above, but 
 as the two are sometimes confounded, we give engravings 
 of both. The edible portion of this is the tuber, while 
 that of the Glole Arti- ^--^"^^=-- ^ 
 
 choke is the scales sur- ^ \ 
 
 rounding the flowers. 
 The tubers of the 
 Jerusalem Artichoke 
 somewhat resemble the ^%- to.— Jerusalem artichoke. 
 potato in appearance, and the plant produces immense 
 crops. But few persons in this country like the flavor, 
 and it is rarely grown unless for stock or as a curiosity. 
 Its culture is similar to the potato ; it has stems, leaves, 
 and flowers, much like the common sunflower. 
 
 BEAN, {Fhaseolus vulgaris var. wawws.)— BUSH, SNAP, OR KIDNEY. 
 
 An indispensable vegetable, of easy cultivation, grow- 
 ing freely on almost any soil, though on well enriched 
 land, it will be more prolific in quantity and more tender 
 in quality. It is a plant of tropical origin, and like all 
 such, should not be sown until the weather is settled and 
 warm, and all danger from frost is past. In this latitude, 
 the time of sowing should not be sooner than the 15th of 
 May. Sow at intervals of two or three weeks, all through 
 the season, if wanted for use. Seed may be sown in drills 
 18 to 24 inches apart, and three inches deep, dropping 
 the seeds at distances of two or three inches in the drills, 
 and covering to the general level. To such as use them 
 all through the season, three or four quarts would be re- 
 
182 GARDENII^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 quired, although a quart at one sowing would give an am- 
 ple quantity for any average family. The varieties most 
 in use at present are Early Valentine, Early China, Mo- 
 JiawJc, Fejee, Black Wax, and Refugee, 
 
 BEAN— POLE OR RUNNING, {PUaseolus vulgaris), AND LIMA, 
 (Fhaseolus lunatus). 
 
 Pole Beans are usually cultivated in hills three or four 
 feet apart. The poles, (which are best made of young 
 cedar trees), should be nine or ten feet high, and firmly 
 fixed at least eighteen inches deep in the ground, and the 
 hills formed around them by digging up the soil and 
 mixing it with a shovelful of well rotted manure, or an 
 ounce or so of guano or bone-dust, if the stable manure 
 is not attainable ; Dut in either case let the mixing be 
 thorough. The hills should be but two or three inches 
 above the general level, and at least eighteen inches in 
 diameter. The term " hill " is an unfortunate one, as it 
 often leads inexperienced persons to suppose that a tall 
 heap must be made, and it is a common mistake to form 
 miniature hills often a foot or more in hight, upon which 
 to sow seeds or set plants ; the effect of this is to confine 
 the roots to this small high and dry space. When the 
 word ^'hill" is used m this work, it is to indicate the 
 place plants are to occupy, and unless some hight is 
 mentioned, it is not above the general level. After the 
 hill has been properly formed around the pole, from five 
 to six beans should be planted around it at a depth of 
 two inches, but the planting should never be done in this 
 latitude before the 20th of May. In all our experience 
 as seedsmen, we know of no seed that is so universally 
 replanted as Lima Beans. I think it safe to say, that at 
 least half of all the people who buy, plant before the 
 ground is dry and warm, and then tell us that the seed 
 must have been bad, because it rotted in the ground. In 
 
BEAN— BEET. 183 
 
 the hurry of business we have not always time to explain 
 why they rotted, and would here state for the sake of our- 
 selves and cotemporaries, that the reason why the Limas 
 fail to grow in 99 cases out of 100, is, that they are planted 
 too early, and that it is no fault of the seed, which is 
 rarely imperfect. The proper method of planting Lima 
 Beans is to push each one singly into the soil, with the 
 eye downward ; the embryo is so very broad and flat that 
 it is difficult for it to turn itself as smaller seeds do when 
 placed in a wrong position. 
 
 The Large White Lima is the variety that is most 
 prized. 
 
 The Giant Wax makes pods nine inches in length, 
 and is a very productive variety. 
 
 The London Horticultural is used as snaps or shelled. 
 
 The Scarlet Runner is a highly ornamental variety, 
 producing dazzling scarlet flowers during the whole 
 summer. It is used mainly as a snap bean. Lima Beans 
 are usually only planted once in this latitude, as they 
 take nearly the whole season to mature. From thirty 
 to fifty poles are sufficient for ordinary use ; this will re- 
 quire from one to two quarts of seed. 
 
 BEET, {Beta vulgaris.) 
 
 Sow in shallow drills twelve to eighteen inches apart 
 in April or May, dropping the seeds so that they will fall 
 an inch or so apart. When the plants have grown to the 
 hight of about two inches, thin out, so that they will 
 stand four inches apart. When the roots are three inches 
 in diameter, they are fit for use. Of course they are used 
 when much larger, but the younger they are, the more 
 delicate and tender. The varieties cultivated are lim- 
 ited to a few : 
 
184 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 Early Egyptian. — A round, deep red variety, is the 
 earliest. 
 Early Bassano. — A light salmon colored variety. 
 
 Early Blood Turnip. 
 — Later than either of 
 the above, but best for 
 general crop. 
 
 Long Smooth Red. — 
 A long variety, best for 
 winter use. About six 
 ounces of seed will give 
 300 feet of row; enough 
 for ordinary use unless 
 succession crops are 
 wanted, then double 
 the quantity will be 
 required. 
 
 BORECOLE OR KALE, 
 
 {Brasska oleracea var.) 
 
 The rather indefinite 
 name of '^ sprouts" is 
 given to this vegetable 
 about New York. It 
 is sown here in Sep- 
 tember, in rows one foot apart, treated in every way as 
 spinach, and is ready for use in early spring. Four 
 ounces of seed is sufficient to sow 300 feet of row. Two 
 varieties of this, but little grown here, are the '' Scotch 
 Kale," or '' Curled Greens," and the "Dwarf German 
 Greens." The former is of a deep green color, the latter 
 bluish purple, both varieties are much curled, almost 
 like parsley. The seeds of these are sown in May, and 
 transplanted in July, just as we do late cabbages, at dis- 
 tances of two feet apart each way. These " Greens," of 
 
 Fig. 71.— EGYPTIAN BEET. 
 
BKOCCOLI. 185 
 
 either variety, when touched by frost, are the most ten- 
 der and delicate of all the cabbage tribe, and it has al- 
 ways been a matter of wonder to me, why their cultiva- 
 tion has not been more general in this country. In 
 Britain they are used very extensively as a winter vege- 
 table. The most popular German variety is Purple Bore- 
 cole, The most popular English variety is Cottagers 
 Kale, very hardy and profitable, more weight being grown 
 of it in the same space than of any other variety. 
 
 BROCCOLI, {Brassica dleracea var.) 
 
 We persist in growing under the two distinct names of 
 Broccoli and Cauliflower, plants which at best are noth- 
 ing more than very nearly related varieties. The main 
 difference between them is, that what we call Broccoli, 
 is planted for fall use, while that which we call Cauli- 
 flower is planted for spring or summer use ; though in 
 this respect they are frequently reversed without seeming 
 to mind it. For fall use the seed should be sown in the 
 early part of May, which will give plants large enough to 
 be set out in July. Further south the sowing of the seed 
 should be delayed from four to six weeks later, and 
 the plants be set out correspondingly later. Here we 
 put them out in July, though further south it may be 
 delayed to August or September. In the mild autumn 
 weather of those latitudes this vegetable may be had in 
 perfection from November to March, while with us, if 
 planted out in July it matures during October and Xo- 
 vember. The plants are set at two and a half to three 
 feet apart, and as a hundred plants are all that most 
 families would use, it is cheaper to buy them, if in a 
 section where they are sold, than to raise the plants 
 from seed. It requires an abundance of manure. The 
 varieties are : 
 
 White and Purple Cape. — There is no difference in 
 
186 
 
 GARDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 flavor, though the white is the most pleasant looking 
 vegetable when cooked. 
 
 BRUSSELS SPROUTS, {Brassica oleraoea var.) 
 
 This vegetable, as the engraving shows, is a variety of 
 the cabbage which forms scarcely any terminal bud or 
 head, but the buds along the stem, which in the ordi- 
 
 Fig. 72.— BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
 
 nary cabbage remain small, are in this developed into 
 small heads, which are the edible portion. This is much 
 more used in Europe than with us ; though it is not suffi- 
 ciently hardy to endure our northern winters, it will 
 stand in our latitude until Christmas. Its cultivation 
 is exactly similar in all respects to that of Broccoli, ex- 
 
CAULIFLOWER. 187 
 
 cept that it may be planted closer, say from one and a 
 half to two feet apart. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER, {Brassica oleracea var.) 
 
 There is quite an ambition among amateur gardeners 
 to raise early cauliflower, but as the conditions necessary 
 to success with this are not quite so easy to command as 
 with most other vegetables, probably not one in three 
 
 Fig. 73. — CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 who try it succeed. In England, and most places on the 
 continent of Europe, it is the most valued of all vegeta- 
 bles, and is grown there nearly as easily as early cabbages. 
 But it must be remembered that the temperature there is 
 on the average ten degrees lower at the time it matures, 
 (June), than with us ; besides their atmosphere is much 
 more humid, two conditions essential to its proper devel- 
 opment. I will briefly state how early cauliflowers can 
 be most successfully grown here. First, the soil must 
 be well broken, and pulverized by spading to at least a 
 foot in depth, mixing through it a layer of three or four 
 
188 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 inches of strong, well rotted, stable manure. The plants 
 may be either those from seed sown last fall and 
 wintered over in cold frames, or else started from 
 seeds sown in January or February, in a hot-bed or 
 greenhouse, and planted in small pots or boxes, so 
 as to make plants strong enough to be set out as 
 soon as the soil is fit to work, which in this latitude 
 is usually the first week in April. We are often applied 
 to for cauliflower plants as late as May, but the chances 
 of their forming heads when planted in May, are shm 
 indeed. The surest way to secure the heading of cauli- 
 flowers is to use what are called hand-glasses, some of 
 which are described in the chapter on Implements. 
 These are usually made about two feet square, which 
 gives room enough for three or four plants of cauliflower, 
 until they are so far forwarded that the glass can be taken 
 off. When the hand-glass is used, the cauliflowers may 
 be planted out in any warm border early in March and cov- 
 ered by them. This covering protects them from frosts 
 at night, and gives the necessary increase of temperature 
 for growth during the cold weeks of March and April ; 
 so that by the first week in May, if the cauliflower has 
 been properly hardened off by ventilating, (by tilting up 
 the hand-glasses on one side), they may be taken off 
 altogether, and then used to forward tomatoes, melons, 
 or cucumbers, at which date these may be started, if 
 under the protection of hand-glasses. If the weather is 
 dry, the cauliflowers will be much benefitted by being 
 thoroughly soaked with water twice or thrice a week ; 
 not a mere sprinkling, which is of no use, but a complete 
 drenching, so that the water will reach to the lowest 
 roots. Those planted later are set out and treated in the 
 same manner as cabbages. The two best varieties of 
 cauliflower we have found as yet, are the Dtvarf Erfurt 
 and Early Paris, 
 
CABBAGE. 
 
 189 
 
 CABBAGE, {Brassica oleracea var.) 
 
 The cabbage is so easily raised that but Kttle space 
 need be devoted to it 
 here ; like all of its 
 tribe, it requires an ^-^^ 
 abundance of manured 
 for its full develop- 
 ment. The early va- 
 rieties should be either 
 raised in cold-frames 
 or in hot-beds, as 
 stated for cauliflow- 
 er, and planted out at ^^' ^^' 
 distances of from twenty to thirty inches apart each way. 
 
 -CABBAGE— EAELT WINNTNGSTADT. 
 
 Fig. 75.— CABBAGE— SAVOY. 
 
 as early as the ground is fit to work in April. The best 
 
190 
 
 GARDEKIi^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 early varieties are Early Summer, Early Wakefield, Early 
 York, and Early Oxheart. As an intermediate yariety 
 the Winningstadt is very popular ; it has a sharply con- 
 ical head, and sometimes grows quite large. 
 
 For late varieties, the seed should be sown in May, and 
 the plants set out in July at two to three feet apart. For 
 
 winter use the 
 large Drum- 
 head is usually 
 grown, to the 
 exclusion of all 
 others, and 
 while the Curl- 
 ed Savoy is 
 vastly better 
 flavored, not 
 one Savoy is 
 planted for 
 every thousand 
 Drumhead. 
 The flavor of 
 the Savoy is as 
 superior to that 
 of the Drum- 
 head, as that 
 of a Bartlett 
 to that of a choke pear, and it is altogether the best late 
 cabbage for family use. 
 
 CARROT, (Daucus Carota.) 
 
 Carrots are sown any time from April to June, in rows 
 one foot apart, covering the seed two inches deep. If the 
 soil is light, they will be better flavored. When the plants 
 are an inch or so high, thin out to three or four inches 
 apart. The varieties most in use are Early French Forcing, 
 Early Horn and Long Orange. Eight ounces of seed will 
 
 Fig. 76.— VARIETIES OF THE 
 CABROT. 
 
 Fig. 1.— EARLY FRENCH FORCING. 
 Fig. 2.— EARLY HORN. 
 Fig. 3. — LONG ORANGE. 
 
CELERY. 191 
 
 SOW 300 feet of row, whicli, for most families, would be 
 an abundance, both for summer and winter use. Carrots 
 are much prized as food for horses and cows, and if 
 wanted for this purpose in quantity, they should be sown 
 with a seed-drill, in rows one and a half to two feet 
 apart ; about four pounds of seed per acre is required. 
 
 CELERY, {Apium gravedlens.) 
 
 If I am fitted to instruct on the cultivation of any veg- 
 etable, it is this, as for many years I have cultivated 
 nearly half a million roots annually, and this experience 
 has resulted in greatly simplifying the operation. The 
 seeds are sown on a well pulverized rich border, as early 
 in the season as the ground can be worked. The bed is 
 kept clear of weeds until July, when the plants are set 
 out for the crop. But as the seedling plants are rather 
 troublesome to raise, the small number wanted for private 
 use, can usually be purchased cheaper than they can be 
 raised on a small scale, (they rarely cost more than II per 
 100), and if they can be procured fresh from the market 
 gardeners in the neighborhood, it is never worth while to 
 sow the seed. The European plan is to make a trench 
 six or eight inches deep, in which to plant celery, but 
 our violent rain storms in summer soon showed us that 
 this plan was not a good one here, so we set about plant- 
 ing on the level surface of the ground. Just as we do 
 with all vegetables. Celery is a '' gross feeder," and re- 
 quires an abundance of manure, which, as usual, must be 
 well mixed and incorporated with the soil, before the cel- 
 ery is set out. When the ground is well prepared, we 
 stretch a line to the distance required, and beat it 
 slightly with a spade, so that it leaves a mark to show 
 where to place the plants. These are set out at distances 
 of six inches between the plants, and usually four feet 
 between the rows. Great care must be taken in put- 
 
192 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 ting out the celery, to see that the plant is set just to 
 the depth of the roots, if much deeper, the 'Hieart" 
 might be too much covered up, which would impede the 
 growth. It is also important that the soil be well packed 
 to the root in planting, and if the operation can be done 
 in the evening, and the plants copiously watered, no 
 farther attention will be required. 
 
 If planted in July, nothing is to be done but keep the 
 crop clear of weeds until September ; by that time the 
 handling process is to be begun, which consists in draw- 
 ing the earth to each side of the celery, and pressing it 
 
 HANDLING 
 
 tightly to it, so as to give the leaves an upward growth 
 preparatory to blanching for use. Supposing this hand- 
 ling process is done by the middle of September, by the 
 first week in October it is ready for ^^ banking up," which 
 is done by digging the soil from between the rows and 
 laying or banking it up on each side of the row of celery; 
 after being so banked up in October, it will be ready for 
 use in three or four weeks if wanted at that time. But 
 if, as is usually the case, it is needed for winter use only, 
 and is to be put away in trenches, or in the cellar, as 
 will be hereafter described, all that it requires is the 
 operation of *^ handling." If the celery is to be left in 
 the open ground where it was grown, then a heavy bank 
 
CELERY. 193 
 
 must be made on each side of the rows, and as cold 
 weather approaches — say in this latitude by the middle 
 of November — an additional covering of at least a foot 
 of leaves or litter, must be closely packed against the 
 bank, to protect it from frost. 
 
 Perhaps the best wav to keep celery for family use, is 
 in a cellar ; this can be done by storing it in narrow box- 
 es, of a depth a little less than the hight of the celery. 
 A few inches of sand or soil is placed in the bottom of 
 the box, and the celery is packed upright ; the roots 
 being placed on the sand at th€ bottom, none being put 
 
 Fig. 78.— "banking up" celery. 
 
 between the heads. Boxes thus packed and placed in a 
 cool cellar in November, will be blanched fit for use dur- 
 ing January, February, and March, though for succes- 
 sion, it will be better to put it in the boxes from the 
 open ground at three different times, say October 25th, 
 November 10th, and November 20th. Or if boxes are 
 not at hand, the celery may be put away on the floor of 
 the cellar in strips of nine or ten inches wide, separated 
 by spaces of the same width, divided by boards of a 
 width equal to the hight of the celery. The reason for 
 dividing the celery in these narrow strips by boards, is to 
 prevent the heating, which would take place if placed 
 together in too thick masses. The dates above given 
 9 
 
194 
 
 GARDEXIXG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 apply, of course, to the latitude of New York ; if 
 further south, do the work later ; if further north, 
 earlier. If one has no suitable cellar, the celery can be 
 very readily preserved in the manner followed by market 
 gardeners. 
 
 After it has been '^handled" or straightened up, as 
 before described, what is intended for use by Christmas, 
 should be dug up by about October 25th ; that to be 
 used in January and February, by November 10th, and 
 that for March use, by November 20th, which latter date 
 is as late as it can be risl^d here ; although it will stand 
 quite a sharp frost, the weather by the end of November is 
 
 Fii;, 70.— STOIIING CELERY IN TRENCHES FOR AVINTER. 
 
 often severe enough to kill it, or so freeze it in the ground 
 that it cannot be dug up. The ground in which it is 
 to be preserved for winter use, must be as dry as possi- 
 ble, and so arranged that no water can remain in the 
 trench. Dig a trench as narrow as possible, (it should not 
 be wider than ten inches), and of a depth equal to the 
 hight of the celery, that is, if the plant of celery be 
 eighteen inches high, the trench should be dug eighteen 
 inches deep. The celery is then packed exactly in the 
 manner described for storing in boxes to be placed in the 
 cellar ; that is, stand it as near upright as possible, and 
 pack as closely together as can be done v/ithout bruising 
 
CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. 195 
 
 it. As the weather becomes cold, the trenches should be 
 gradually covered with leaves or litter, to the thickness 
 of six or eight inches, which will be enough to prevent 
 severe freezing, and enable the roots to be taken out 
 easily when wanted. Fig. 79 represents this method of 
 storing celery in trenches for winter use. 
 
 From 200 to 500 roots is the number usually required 
 by an ordinary 
 family. The va- 
 rieties we recom- 
 mend, are the San- 
 dringham White 
 and Dwarf Red. 
 The red is as yet 
 but little used 
 in this country, 
 though the flavor 
 is better, and the 
 plant altogether 
 hardier than the 
 white. 
 
 CELERIAC, OR TUR- 
 NIP-ROOTED CEL- 
 ERY, {Apium graveo- 
 lens var.") 
 
 Is grown almost 
 the same as the 
 common celery, 
 and as it requires 
 but little earth- 
 ing-up, the rows 
 may be nearer to- 
 gether Its tur- ^^^' 80.— CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. 
 
 nip-like root is used as a salad, mostly by the French and 
 Germans. It is sometimes stewed, but usually simply 
 boiled, sliced, and dressed as a salad for the table. 
 
Fig. 81. — C0KN-SALAJ3. 
 
 196 GARDEKIITG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 CORN-SALAD OR FETTICUS, {Fedia olitona.) 
 
 This is sold to a considerable extent in spring in the city 
 markets for use as an early salad. 
 For mode of cultivation, etc., see 
 Spinach, as it is grown in exactly 
 the same manner. 
 
 CHIVES, (Allium ScJioenoprasum.) 
 
 An entirely hardy onion - like 
 plant, of easy culture ; it will grow 
 on almost any soil for years, with- 
 out being transplanted. The leaves 
 are the part used, and may be shorn off every two weeks 
 during summer. It is propagated by tearing to pieces the 
 old clumps and setting the divisions in rows a foot apart. 
 
 CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS, {Lepidium sativum.) 
 
 A spring and summer salad plant ; sow in early spring, 
 and in succession, every week or so if desired, in rows 
 one foot apart. The curled variety is the best, as it can 
 be used for garnishing, as well as for salad. 
 
 CRESS-WATER, (Nasturtium officinale.) 
 
 A hardy aquatic plant, which can only be properly cul- 
 tivated where there are running streams. If there is a 
 brook on the place, all that would be wanted for private 
 use may be had by setting a few plants or sowing seeds 
 in spring on the margin of the water. 
 
 CORN, {Zea Mays.) 
 
 The varieties known as " Sweet," are the kinds cultiva- 
 ted to be used in the green state. Corn may either be 
 planted in ^Hiills," dropping three or four seeds in a hill 
 four feet apart each way, or in rows five feet apart, drop- 
 
CUCUMBER. 197 
 
 ping the seeds at distances of eight or ten inches in the 
 rows. In this latitude it is useless to plant corn before 
 the middle of May. For succession crops it should be 
 planted every two or three weeks until July first ; 
 after that date it will not mature here. Corn requires a 
 rich light soil to be early. The leading yarieties are 
 Dwarf Early Sugar for first early, Crosby's Early Sugar 
 for second, and StowelFs Evergreen for main crops. Three 
 or four quarts is required, if succession crops are sown ; 
 if only one crop, two or three pints will be sufficient. 
 
 CUCUMBER, {Cucumis sativus.) 
 
 In most places where the Cucumber is grown out-doors, 
 it is more or less troubled with the ^' Striped Bug," but 
 if only a few dozen hills are cultivated, it is not a very 
 troublesome matter to pick them off, which is about the 
 only sure way to get rid of them. The safest method of 
 raising cucumbers, however, is to cover the seeds when 
 first sown, with the hand-glass described in chapter on 
 Implements ; which by the 
 time they are wanted for 
 cucumbers, are no longer 
 needed over cauliflowers. If 
 such hand-glasses are not ob- 
 tainable, a simple method is 
 to use a light box ten or 
 twelve inches square, to place 
 over the seeds after sowing, ^^^' ^^' 
 
 covering it with a pane of bkya^t's pi.ant pkotector. 
 
 glass ; this will not only forward the germination of the 
 seeds, but will protect the plants against the bugs, until 
 they are strong enough not to be injured by them. 
 Bryant's Plant Protector, a simple article, made of light 
 strips of wood, covered by mosquito netting, may be used 
 instead of a hand-glass. This will be found equally 
 
198 
 
 GARDENIISTG FOK PLEASUEE. 
 
 valuable for protecting all plants liable to tbe attacks of 
 flying insects, and against the light frosts, so often inju- 
 rious to tender plants. Light, sandy soil is rather best 
 for cucumbers; the '^ hills" should be prepared in the 
 same manner as for Lima Beans, but set three feet 
 apart, dropping five or six seeds in each hill. Cucum- 
 bers may be sown about the middle of May, and in suc- 
 cession, every three or four weeks, until July. The 
 White Spine and Long Green Prickly are favorite varie- 
 ties. The Gherkin or Burr is by some used for pickling. 
 
 EGG PLANT, (Solanum Melongena.) 
 
 This is always an interesting vegetable to cultivate, 
 being worthy of a place as an or- 
 namental plant, as well as being- 
 much prized for culinary use. It 
 is a native of the Tropics, and 
 peculiarly tender. We find the 
 seeds will not germinate freely 
 under a temperature of seventy 
 degrees ; and even then, often 
 tardily, unless the conditions are 
 just right. Nothing suits them 
 so well as a warm hot-bed, and to 
 get plants of the proper size to be 
 set in the open ground by the end 
 of May, the seeds should be sowi 
 early in March, and the plant 
 potted into small pots when ai 
 inch or so in hight. But as onl 
 a dozen or two plants are needed 
 for a family, whenever the plants ^^-- s^.-egg plant. 
 can be purchased conveniently, it is never worth the 
 trouble to attempt the raising of them from seeds, unless 
 indeed there is room in a hot-bed, or hot-house used 
 
EXDIVE — HERBS. 199 
 
 for other purposes. Do not plant out sooner than the 
 25th of M&j, unless they can be protected by hand- 
 glasses. Set at distances of four feet apart, preparing 
 the hills as described for Lima Beans. Each plant should 
 ayerage a dozen fruits, which will weigh from ten to 
 forty ounces each. The best flavored variety in our 
 opinion is the Black Pekin, but the most prolific is the 
 New York Market. A pure pearly white variety is highly 
 ornamental, and also of excellent flavor. The Egg Plant 
 is usually fried in slices, but there are other methods to 
 be found in the proper authorities in such matters. 
 
 ENDIVE, (Cic7ioriu7n Endivia.) 
 
 A plant related to the lettuce. If sown in early spring, 
 either in hot-bed or in the open ground, in April, it will 
 be ready in May. Set out at distances of fifteen inches 
 apart. It is mostly used towards fall, however, and when 
 wanted at that time, should be sown in June or July, and 
 set out in August and September ; nothing further is 
 done after planting but hoeing to keep down the weeds, 
 until it attains its full growth, which is from twelve to 
 eighteen inches in diameter. It is then ^*^ blanched," 
 either by gathering up the leaves and tying them by 
 their tops in a conical form, or by placing a slate, or flat 
 stone, on the plant to exclude the light and effect the 
 blanching. It is used as a salad. The varieties are the 
 Moss Curled and Plain-leaved Batavian. 
 
 HERBS— SWEET. 
 
 Thyme, Sage, Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and Summer 
 Savory are those in general use ; the seeds of all ex- 
 cept the last named, should be sown in shallow drills, 
 one foot apart in May, and the plants will be fit for use 
 
200 
 
 GARDENING FOn PLEASURE. 
 
 in September and October. Summer Savory does better 
 if the seeds are sown where the plants are to grow. 
 
 GARLIC, (AUium sativum.) 
 
 Is used mostly by Europeans ; it grows freely on any 
 soil ; the sets, obtained by breaking up the old bulbs, are 
 planted in early spring in rows one foot apart, and five or 
 
 Fig. 84.— GAELIC BULBS. Fig. 85.— HOKSERADISH ROOT. 
 
 six inches between the plants. When the leaves wither, 
 the bulbs are taken up and hung in a dry, cool place. 
 
 HORSERADISH, {Nasturtium Armoracia.) 
 
 For family use a few roots of this should be planted in 
 some out-of-the-way corner of the vegetable garden ; a 
 dozen roots, once planted, will usually give enough for a 
 life-time, as it increases and spreads so that there is never 
 any danger of being without it ; the trouble is, if it is 
 once admitted into the garden, it is difficult to be got 
 rid of if so desired. 
 
KOHLRABI — LEEK. 
 
 201 
 
 KOHLRABI, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE, {Brasska oleraceavsir.) 
 
 This vegetable resembles a turnip, but is regarded as a 
 
 yariety of the cab- 
 bage, with, a fleshy 
 edible stem. Seeds 
 should be sown in 
 rows fifteen or eis^h- 
 teen inches apart, in 
 May or June, and 
 when an inch high, 
 thinned out to nine 
 or ten inches. It is 
 a favorite vegetable 
 with the Germans, 
 and immense quan- 
 tities are sold in the 
 
 Fig. 86. — KOHLEABI. 
 
 markets of New York in 
 the fall. There are two va- 
 rieties. White and Purple. 
 
 LEEK, (AUium Borrum.) 
 
 Sow in April, and plant 
 out in June or July, in 
 rows one foot apart and 
 six inches between the 
 plants. It is used mainly 
 during the winter months ; 
 it is an entirely hardy 
 plant, yet in order that it 
 
 Fis:. 87.— LEEK. 
 
202 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 may be handy to get at in winter, it is better to put it in 
 trenches, as advised for preserving celery. 
 
 LETTUCE, {Lactuca sativa.) 
 
 Lettuce should be sown in a hot-bed or greenhouse if 
 wanted early ; seeds sown there in February will give nice 
 plants to set out in April, to mature in May, or if it is 
 sown in the open ground in April and planted out in 
 May, it will mature in June, and so on through the 
 summer season if succession crops are desired, as it only 
 takes from five to six weeks to mature. The great excel- 
 lence of lettuce consists in its freshness, and it can rarely 
 be purchased in perfect condition ; hence, those who 
 would enjoy it in its best state should raise it themselves. 
 
 For early use, to be ready in May, the Curled Silesia 
 and Boston Market are the best ; while for summer use, 
 the Curled India and Plain Drumhead should be sown, 
 as they do not readily run to seed. The Cos varieties are 
 mainly used in Europe, and are by far the best flavored ; 
 but from their tendency to run to seed in our warmer 
 climate, are but little cultivated, though they might be 
 safely grown in the cool weather, in spring, or in fall. 
 An ounce of seed of each variety will be ample. 
 
 MARTTNIA, (Martynia proboscidea.) 
 
 The unripe pods taken when perfectly tender, are used 
 for pickling. They must be gathered every day or two, 
 or some will become hard and useless. Sow in open 
 ground in May, and transplant to two feet each way in 
 June. 
 
 MELON, MUSK, (Cucumis Melo.) 
 
 The cultivation of the Melon is almost identical with 
 that of the cucumber, to which reference may be made. 
 
MELOK. 
 
 203 
 
 The yarieties are numerous, those named below are the 
 most popular. 
 
 Green Citron, — Medium size, deeply netted, almost 
 
 round in shape, 
 flesh green, de- 
 licious flavor. 
 
 Wliite Jajoan, 
 — A distinct and 
 white - skinned 
 sort, flesh yellow, 
 richly flavored. 
 
 Isjpalian. — A 
 valuable variety 
 for the southern 
 states, but too 
 late to mature 
 in the north. It 
 grows to upwards 
 of a foot in 
 length ; skin, 
 when fully ripe, 
 light yellow ; 
 flesh yellowish- 
 white, with a rich 
 perfume and fla- 
 vor. Cassaha is 
 
 a related variety, and in most seasons ripens with us. 
 Ward's Nectar and Shillman's Netted, are among the 
 
 best for the family garden. 
 
 MELON, WATER, (Citrullus vulgaris.) 
 
 The cultivation of the Water Melon is in all respects 
 similar to that of the Musk Melon, except that being a 
 larger and stronger growing plant, it requires to be 
 planted at greater distances. The hills should not be 
 
 Fia:. 88.— MAETYNIA. 
 
204 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 less than eight feet apart each way. It delights in 
 light sandy soil, and will not grow satisfactorily on 
 heavy, clayey soils. The leading sorts are : 
 
 Moimtain Sprout. — A large-sized, red-fleshed variety, 
 of excellent flavor. 
 
 PMnney^s Early. — Flesh of a deep red, very sweet. 
 
 Fig. 89.— WATER-MELON— PHINNET'S EARLY. 
 
 Ice Cream. — A white-fleshed variety, and one of the 
 earliest ; best to be grown in northern or eastern states. 
 
 Orange. — So called because the flesh parts readily from 
 the rind when ripe. The flesh is red, and rather coarse ; 
 it keeps longer than any other. 
 
 Rattlesnalve, also called Joe Johnson, is a flne variety 
 for the southern states, and is largely grown for shipment 
 to the northern markets. 
 
 MUSTARD, {Sinapis alba.) 
 
 For use and cultivation see Cress. 
 
 MUSHROOM, (Agaricus campestris.) 
 
 Many who have a taste for horticultural pursuits grow 
 mushrooms as much for the novelty of the thing as for 
 the use, for it is certainly very gratifying for an ama- 
 
MUSHROOM. 205 
 
 teur to find that he has succeeded with a crop of this cu- 
 rious vegetable in mid -winter, when everything outside 
 is frost-locked and snow-bound. I have said that the 
 novelty is attractive, for in growing all other plants the 
 cultivator sees something tangible to start with, either 
 seeds, plants, or roots, but with the mushroom it may be 
 said he sees neither, for no seeds can be discovered either 
 with the naked eye or with a magnifier, and it requires 
 some faith to believe the minute thread-like substance 
 we call " spawn," to be either plants or roots. 
 
 Mushrooms are always raised in the dark, and any 
 cellar, stable, or an out-house of any sort, wherein a 
 temperature of 45° to 65° can be^ commanded, will grow 
 them. There are various methods followed by mushroom 
 growers, but I will only give one, premising that if the 
 directions given are strictly followed, success is just as 
 certain as in growing a crop of peas or potatoes. Let 
 horse droppings be procured from the stables each day, 
 in quantities not less than a barrow load ; to every bar- 
 row load of droppings, add half the quantity of fresh 
 loam, from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind 
 that has not been manured, (the objection to old ma- 
 nured soil being that it may contain the spores of spuri- 
 ous fungi.) Let the droppings and soil be mixed to- 
 gether day by day, as the manure can be procured ; or 
 if they can be had all at once in sufficient quantity, so 
 much the better. Let the heap, (which should be under 
 cover), be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to 
 heat violently until you have got together a sufficient 
 quantity to form a bed of the desired size. From the 
 prepared droppings and soil, begin to form the bed. A 
 convenient width is four feet, and the length may be as 
 great as desired. First spread a thin layer of the com- 
 post, pounding it down firmly with a brick or mallet, 
 layer after layer, until it reaches a depth of eight inches. 
 Be careful that the thickness is just about eight inches. 
 
206 GAEDENIKG FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 as if more, it would heat too violently, and if less, it 
 would not heat enough. Into this bed plunge a ther- 
 mometer ; in two or three days the bed will heat, so that 
 the thermometer will rise to 100° or over. As soon as the 
 temperature declines to 90°, take a sharp stick and make 
 holes an inch or so in diameter all over the bed, at about a 
 foot apart, and six inches deep ; into these holes drop 
 two or three pieces of '^ spawn," and cover up the hole 
 again with the compost of which the bed is made, and 
 beat it slightly again, so that the bed will present the 
 same level surface as before the spawn was put in. Let 
 the bed remain in this condition for ten or twelve days, 
 by which time the spawn will have run all through it. 
 Now spread evenly over the surface of the bed about two 
 inches of fresh loam, press it down moderately with the 
 back of a spade, and cover up the bed with hay or straw 
 to the thickness of three or four inches. If this opera- 
 tion is finished in November or December, and the place 
 has an average temperature of 55°, you may look out for 
 a crop in January or February. The bed will continue 
 bearing about three or four weeks, and the crop is usually 
 enormous, often producing a bushel on two square yards 
 of space. After the first crop is gathered, a second, and 
 even a third, can be taken if desired, from the same bed 
 without further trouble than to spread a little fresh soil 
 on the surface, giving it a gentle watering and covering 
 up with hay as before. Great care must be taken that 
 after placing the spawn in the newly made bed, the 
 earth covering is not put on sooner than ten or twelve 
 days ; in my first attempt at mushroom growing, I failed 
 two years in succession, because I put on the soil 
 when the spawn was first put into the bed ; by so doing, 
 the steam arising from the manure was prevented from 
 passing off, and the result was, that the spawn rotted. I 
 believe this very common error is the cause of most of 
 the failures in raising mushrooms. 
 
NASTURTIUM — OKRA. 
 
 207 
 
 NASTURTIUM— INDIAN CRESS, (Tropceolum majus.) 
 
 A highly ornamental plant, cultivated in flower-gar- 
 dens as well as in the kitchen garden. The shoots and 
 flowers are some- 
 times used in 
 salads, but it is 
 mainly grown for 
 its fruit or seed 
 pods, which are 
 pickled in vine- 
 gar and used as 
 a substitute for 
 capers. The plant 
 is of the easiest 
 culture. Sow in 
 shallow drills in 
 May. The tall 
 variety will reach. 
 a hight of ten or 
 fifteen feet if 
 furnished with 
 strings or wires, 
 and makes an 
 excellent screen 
 for shade, or for 
 quickly covering 
 up and conceal- Fig- 90.— okka. 
 
 ing any unsightly place. The dwarf variety is grown 
 like peas, and staked with brush. 
 
 OKRA OR GUMBO, {Ahelmoschus esculentus.) 
 
 A vegetable of the easiest culture. Sow in drills in 
 May, three feet apart for dwarf, and four feet for tall 
 sorts, in drills two or three inches deep. The long pods 
 when very young and tender, are used in soups, stews, 
 etc., and are very nutritious. 
 
208 QARDEKING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 ONION, {Allium cepa.) 
 
 Onions are raised either by *^sets/' which are small 
 dry onions grown the previous year, or from seeds. When 
 grown from the sets, they should be planted out as early 
 in spring as the ground is dry enough to work ; plant 
 them in rows one foot apart, with sets three or four 
 inches apart. When raised from sets, the onions can 
 be used in the green state in June, or they will be 
 ripened off by July. When raised from seeds, these are 
 sown at about the same distance between the rows, and 
 when the young plants are an inch or so high, they are 
 thinned out to two or three inches apart. It is import- 
 ant that onion-seed be sown very early. In this lati- 
 tude it should be sown not later than the middle of 
 April, for if delayed until May, warm weather sets in 
 and delays, or rather prolongs the growth until fall, and 
 often the bulbs will not ripen ; we find that unless the 
 onion-tops dry off and the bulbs ripen by August, they 
 will hardly do so later. The best known sorts are White 
 Portugal or Silver Skinned, Yellow Dutch or Strasburg, 
 and Wethersfield Eed. 
 
 Two kinds are grown exclusively from bulbs ; one of 
 these is the Potato Onion, or ^^ Multipliers," which in- 
 crease by the bulb splitting up and dividing itself into 
 six or eight smaller bulbs, which in turn form the sets 
 to plant for the next crop. The other variety is what is 
 called ''Top Onion," which forms little bulbs on the 
 stem in the place of flowers ; these are in clusters, and 
 about the size of hazel nuts. These small bulbs are 
 broken apart and planted in spring at the same distances 
 as the ''sets" referred to above ; all mature in August. 
 
 PARSLEY, {Carum Petroselinum.) 
 
 But a very small quantity of this is usually wanted in 
 the family garden. Sow in shallow drills in April or 
 
PAESNIP — PEA. 
 
 209 
 
 May. A good plan is to sow in shallow boxes as much as 
 may be needed ; they can be placed wherever there is 
 moderate light, and no frost ; by this means a fresh 
 supply may be kept on hand in hard winter vv^eather, 
 when it is most desirable to have it, either for garnish- 
 ing dishes or for other uses. The best yariety to grow is 
 the Moss, or Double Curled. 
 
 PARSNIP, (Pastinaca sativa.) 
 
 For mode of cultiyation of parsnips, see carrot, as 
 culture is identical, except that this 
 being hardy, can be left out in 
 winter, while in this latitude carrots 
 cannot. A portion of the crop may 
 be dug and stored in the cellar or 
 in trenches, and the remainder may 
 be left until spring. The Holloiu 
 Crowned is best for general use. 
 
 PEA, {Pisum satiifum.) 
 
 The pea is indispensable in the 
 garden, and there is more satisfac- 
 tion in growing it on one's own 
 ground, than there is in raising any 
 other yegetable. If too old when 
 picked, or stale, which is too often 
 the case when purchased from the 
 dealers, peas haye but little resem- 
 blance to those taken directly from 
 the yines. For an early crop peas 
 should be one of the first things sown 
 in the spring. We prefer to sow in double rows, which saves 
 half the labor in staking or bushing up, and gives nearly 
 the same crop to the row as if sown in single rows. 
 Double rows are made at eight or nine inches apart, and 
 
 PARSNIP. 
 
210 GAKDEHING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 four feet from other rows. Set a line and draw the 
 drills with a hoe three or four inches deep ; the seed 
 should he sown to lay as near as possible an inch or so 
 apart. The Sidney Seed-Sower, mentioned in the chapter 
 on Implements, is a most conyenient affair for sowing 
 peas ; one can with a few minutes practice distribute the 
 seed with great regularity. In order to have a succession 
 of crops of peas, they should be sown every two or three 
 weeks until July. If succession crops are grown, an 
 average quantity for a family would be twelve quarts ; if 
 only first crops of early and late, from four to six quarts 
 will be sufficient. 
 
 The varieties of peas are almost innumerable, and new 
 sorts — or at least sorts with new names — are sent out 
 every year. They may be classed in two groups, the 
 round and the wrinkled peas. The round varieties are 
 the earliest, but they are as much inferior to the wrinkled 
 or marrow kinds, as field is to sweet corn; these two 
 groups are subdivided according to hight. The earliest 
 pea is Daniel O^Rourhe, under some of its dozen or more 
 names, for most of the '^ early" and *^' extra early" peas 
 are only selected strains of this, which, under other names, 
 dates back into the last century. It is of medium hight, 
 productive, and valuable as yielding the earliest crops. 
 The earliest of the wrinkled sorts is the Alpha, of medium 
 hight. The standard late sort is the Champion of Eng- 
 land, an old variety, which has not yet been superseded. 
 The dwarf sorts, which grow only about a foot high and 
 need no brush, are very handy in the family garden, as 
 they may be used to occupy odd spaces. The leading 
 dwarfs are Tom Thumh, early but round, and Little Gem, 
 productive and of the best quality. The catalogues give 
 the merits of numerous other sorts, early, medium, and 
 late. 
 
PEPPER — POTATO — PUMPKIK. 211 
 
 PEPPER, or CAPSICUM, {Capsicum annuum.) 
 
 The Pepper is sown and cultiyated in all respects the 
 same as the Egg-Plant, which may be referred to. The 
 yarieties are the Bull-Nose, or Bell, and the Cayenne. 
 
 POTATO, {Solamcm tuberosum.) 
 
 Potatoes are grown by planting the tubers, either cut 
 or whole, it makes but little difference which ; if large, 
 cut them ; if small, leave them uncut. They are usually 
 planted in drills three feet apart, and four or five inches 
 deep. The ground should be prepared by first spreading 
 in the drills a good coat of stable manure, say two inches 
 deep, upon which are planted the tubers or sets, at dis- 
 tances of eight or ten inches apart. In a warm exposure 
 planting may be begun early in April, and the crop will 
 be fit for use in June. Some of the small-leaved varieties 
 such as the Ash-leaved Kidney, were formerly grown un- 
 der hand glasses, or in frames, to forward them, but now 
 this is hardly worth the trouble, as our supplies from 
 southern latitudes are so early that it is no longer desir- 
 able to force the crop. The generally favorite variety for 
 early crops is still the Early Eose ; and for general crop, 
 Peach-Blows; but there are scores of other varieties, 
 which have a special or local reputation. 
 
 PUMPKIN, (CucurUta Fepo.) 
 
 Pumpkins are still grown in many gardens with a te- 
 nacity that is astonishing, when it should long ago have 
 been known that they have no business there, as their 
 first cousins, the squashes, are eminently superior for 
 every culinary purpose whatever. The Pumpkin is a val- 
 uable product for the farm, as a food for cattle, but for 
 nothing else. If people will waste valuable land in rais- 
 ing pumpkins, they may plant them the same as directed 
 for squashes. 
 
^12 GAEDEi^Ii^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 KADISH, {Haphanus sativus.) 
 
 One of the first vegetables that we crave in spring is 
 the Kadish, and it is so easy of culture that every family 
 can have it fresh, crisp, and in abundance. The 
 smallest garden patch of a few feet square, will give 
 enough for a family. It is sown either in drills or 
 broadcast, care being taken that the seed is not put 
 in too thickly ; from one to two inches apart either in 
 drill or broadcast, being the proper distance, as usually 
 every seed germinates. The best varieties are the Red 
 and French Turnip, and the Short Top Long, Red, or 
 White. If wanted specially early, the above sorts are 
 best for hot-bed forcing ; for summer and winter use the 
 yellow and gray varieties are preferred. 
 
 RHUBAKB OR PIE PLANT, {Bheum Rhapmticum.) 
 
 Rhubarb may be planted in either fall or spring, using 
 either plants raised from the seed, or sets obtained by di- 
 visions of the old roots, taking care to have a bud to each. 
 Set at distances of three or four feet apart each way. 
 The place where each plant is to be set, should be dug 
 eighteen inches deep and the same in width, and the 
 soil mixed with two or three shovelfuls of well-rotted 
 stable manure. Two dozen strong jolants will be enough 
 for the wants of an average family. If desired in winter 
 or early spring, a few roots can be taken up and placed in 
 a warm cellar or any such dark and warm place. The 
 roots, if the cellar is dark, may be put in a box with 
 earth around them, or if in a light cellar, they may be 
 put in the bottom of a barrel with earth, and the top 
 covered. The only care needed is to see that the roots 
 do not get too dry, and to water if necessary, when it 
 will grow with but little care The useful portions is the 
 long and thick leaf-stalks, and these when forced are 
 much finer in flavor than when grown exposed to air and 
 
SALSIFY. 
 
 213 
 
 light in the open garden. The plants in the open ground 
 should have the flower-stalks cut away as they appear. 
 
 -EHUBAEB. 
 
 Fig. 92. 
 
 In gathering do not cut the leaf-stalks, as they will read- 
 ily come away by a side-wise pull, and leave no remnant 
 to decay. The varieties are Myatt's Victoria and Linnaaus. 
 
 SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT, {Tragapogon porrifolius.) 
 
 The culture of this vegetable is the same in all respects 
 as for carrots, which see. Like the parsnip, it is hardy, 
 and can be left out during winter in any district without 
 injury from frost. It is rapidly becoming more popular. 
 
214 GAEDEKIi^G FOR PLEASUEE. 
 
 It is stewed like parsnips or carrots, is used to make soup. 
 
 Fisr. 93.— SALSIFY. 
 
 rig. 94,— SCORZONERA.. 
 
 which has a decided flavor of the oyster, or is first boiled 
 and then fried. There is but one kind. 
 
 SCOEZONERA— BLACK SALSIFY, (Scorzonera Rispanica.) 
 
 This is somewhat different in flavor from Salsify, and 
 
SEA KALE. 215 
 
 is preferred to it by many ; it lias much broader leaves, 
 but it is cultivated and used in the same manner. 
 
 SEA KALE, {Cramhe maritima.) 
 
 Sea Kale is a favorite vegetable in European gardens, 
 but here, as yet, almost unknown. Anticipating that at 
 no distant day it may be as generally cultivated as it de- 
 serves to be, I briefly describe the mode of culture. The 
 seeds of Sea Kale should be sown in the greenhouse, or 
 in a slight hot-bed in February or March, and when the 
 plants are an inch or two in hight, they should be potted 
 into two or three-inch pots and placed in a cold frame to 
 harden, until sufficiently strong 
 to be planted in the open 
 ground. It should then be set 
 
 out in rows three feet apart, f\ l\ 1 Jilted /) 
 with two feet between the % iiiliu., '^imM^^ fi 
 plants, on land enriched as for 
 any ordinary cabbage crop. If 
 the plants and the soil in w^hich 
 they have been planted are both 
 good, and cultivation has been 
 properly attended to, by keeping 
 the plants well hoed during the 
 summer, it will have ^^ crowns" 
 
 , T, J. • J.1 ^ig- 95.— SEA EALE. 
 
 strong enough to give a crop the 
 
 next season. In the northern states it will be necessary 
 to cover the rows wuth three or four inches of leaves, to 
 protect the plants from frost. Sea Kale is only fit for 
 use when ^' blanched," and to effect this, on the approach 
 of spring the ^'crowns" should be covered with some 
 light material, such as sand or leaf -mold, to the depth of 
 twelve or fifteen inches, so that the young shoot being 
 thus excluded from the light, will become blanched in 
 growing through this covering. Sometimes cans made 
 
316 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 for the purpose, or large flower-pots, or even wooden 
 boxes, are inverted over the plants, the object in each 
 case being to exclude the light. If it is desired to force 
 Sea Kale, or forward it earlier, the materials used to 
 make hot-beds, leaves or stable manure are heaped over 
 the pots or cans in a sufficient quantity to generate the 
 proper heat to forward or force on the growth of the 
 plants. The young shoots are cut from the plant before 
 the leaves are developed, and when cooked, have a flavor 
 something between asparagus and cauliflower, but by 
 most persons much preferred to either. The engraving 
 shows a young shoot when ready for the table. 
 
 SHALLOTS, (Allium Ascalonicum.) 
 
 A plant of the onion genus, which is cultivated by set- 
 ting out the divided roots in September in rows a foot 
 apart, allowing six inches between them. It is entirely 
 hardy, and fit for use in early spring. 
 
 SPINACH, {Spinacia dleracea.) 
 
 Spinach is a vegetable of easy culture. It may either 
 be sown in spring or fall. If in fall, the proper time is 
 from the 10th to the 25th of September, in rows one foot 
 apart ; sow rather thickly. Cover the plants with two 
 or three inches of hay or leaves on the approach of severe 
 frost in December. When sown in the fall, the crop of 
 course is ready for use much earlier than when sown in 
 spring, as half the growth is made in the fall months. 
 By the time the seed can be sown in spring, the crop that 
 has been wintered over will be coming into use. To fol- 
 low the crop thus wintered, seeds should be sown in the 
 same manner in spring, as early as the soil can be worked, 
 and another sowing may be made two weeks later. The 
 round-seeded variety is best for, winter sowing, and the 
 prickly seeded for spring. About four ounces is enough 
 for ordinary wants for either season's sowing. 
 
SPIXACH, SUBSTITUTES FOR. 
 
 217 
 
 SPINACH, SUBSTITUTES FOR. 
 
 In the southern states, or even in our northern sum- 
 mers, Spinach runs rapidly 
 to seed, if sown in hot 
 weather, and several plants 
 may be used as substitutes. 
 Among these are Swiss 
 Chard, a species of beet, 
 sometimes called Spinach 
 Beet, or Perpetual Spinach. 
 Young plants of the ordi- 
 nary beet are by some pre- 
 
 Fig. 96.— SWISS CHARD. 
 
 ferred to spinach ; ordinarily beets need thinning, and 
 the seed is sometimes sown very thickly, in order that 
 there may be an abundance of thinnings to use as spinach, 
 or beet greens ; they are used with the young beet attach- 
 ed, which should not be thicker than an ordinary lead- 
 pencil ; if larger, the leaves will be too strong. Another 
 substitute is 
 
 NEW ZEALAND SPINACH, (Tetragonia expansa.) 
 
 This is a remarkable plant, of low branching habit. 
 
 and grows 
 10 
 
 t^ig. 97. —NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. 
 
 with surprising luxuriance during: hot 
 
218 
 
 GAEDENIXG rOK PLEASURE. 
 
 weather. Single plants often measure from five to eight 
 feet in diameter. The leaves are used exactly as ordinary 
 spinach. It should not be sown before warm weather 
 sets in in May, and the plants should be set out in hills 
 three or four feet apart each way, 
 
 SQUASH, {CiKurbita Fepo and C maxima.) 
 
 The summer varieties are, among others, the White 
 and Yellow Bush and Summer Crookneck. As with 
 
 Fig, 98. — SQUASH— WHITE BUSH. 
 
 all plants of this class, it is useless to sow these before 
 warm weather in May, and the directions given for cu- 
 cumbers and melons, are alike applicable to the squash, 
 except that the distances apart of the hills ; these should 
 
 Fig. 99. — SQiTAsn— suMMES crookneck. 
 
 be from three to four feet for the bush sorts, and from 
 six to eight for the other varieties which ^' run " or make 
 a long vine. The fall or winter squashes are planted at 
 the same time, but are allowed to mature or ripen, while 
 
SWEET POTATO. ^19 
 
 the summe-r varieties are used green. They are usually 
 planted eight or nine feet apart, in hills prepared in the 
 usual way. These squashes are great feeders, and for 
 the best results the soil should be well enriched, besides 
 the special manuring in the hills, as the vines throw out 
 roots at every joint to assist in feeding and maturing the 
 heavy crop they usually bear. The popular varieties are 
 
 Fig. 100. — SQUASH — MABBLEHEAD. 
 
 Hubbard, Marblehead, Yokohama, and Winter Crook- 
 neck. Most of the winter varieties, if kept in a dry at- 
 mosphere at a temperature from forty to fifty degrees, 
 will keep until May. A garret room in a moderately well 
 halted dwelling house, will often be a very suitable place 
 for storing them. 
 
 SWEET POTATO, {Ipom(m Batatas.) 
 
 It IS useless to attempt to grow the Sweet Potato on 
 anything but a light and dry soil. On clayey soils the 
 plant not only grows poorly, but the potatoes raised upon 
 such soil are watery, and poorly flavored. The plants 
 are raised by laying the roots on their sides on a hot-bed 
 or bench of a greenhouse, and covering them over with 
 
220 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 sand, about the first week in May; by keeping up 
 an average temperature of 75° or 80°, fine plants will be 
 produced by June 1st, at which time they should be 
 planted in this vicinity. The plants are set in hills three 
 feet apart each way, or on 
 ridges four feet apart, and 
 12 or 15 inches between 
 the plants, drawing the 
 earth up to them as they 
 grow, until the top of the 
 ridge or hill is four or six 
 inches above the level. 
 The soil under the ridges 
 should be highly manured, 
 and as the vines grow they 
 should be kept clear of 
 weeds ; when late in the 
 season they show a dis- 
 position to root at the 
 joints, they must be 
 moved every week or so ; 
 this is easily done by run- 
 ning a rake handle or 
 other stick under the vines 
 and lifting them sufficient- 
 ly to draw out the small 
 roots upon the stem. As 
 is the case with many other 
 vegetables of which the 
 plants or sets are raised in 
 large quantities for sale, it is better and cheaper when 
 Sweet Potato plants are procurable, to purchase them, 
 than to attempt to raise the small number required in a 
 private garden. A hundred plants not costing more than 
 a dollar, are all that most families would require. The 
 Nansemond is the favorite variety. 
 
 Fio^. 101. — SWEET POTATO. 
 
TOMATO — TURNIP. 221 
 
 TOMATO, (Lycopersicum esculentum.) 
 
 If any vegetable is grown in a family garden, it is al- 
 most certain to be the Tomato. Hundreds of people 
 who have only a few feet of ground ai> their disposal, 
 manage to cultivate a dozen or two of tomato-plants, 
 though they may have nothing else ; so well is it known 
 ,that I think few of my readers will require to be told 
 much about its culture. The Tomato will grow any- 
 where, and under almost any circumstances, provided 
 always that it has the necessary high temperature ; it is 
 essentially a plant of the Tropics, and need never be sown 
 in a hot-bed here before March, or planted in the open 
 ground before the middle of May. When cultivated in 
 private gardens, the tomato-vine should always be pro- 
 vided with some sort of trellis, or be tacked up against a 
 fence or wall. By this treatment, not only will a heavier 
 crop be obtained, but the flavor will l;)e better ; when the 
 fruit rests on the ground it has often an inferior flavor, 
 particularly when eaten raw, and is also more apt to de- 
 cay. A few dozen plants usually Suffice for an ordinary 
 family, and if there are no hot-beds or other glass ar- 
 rangements on hand, the plants had better be purchased, 
 as they are sold cheaply everywhere. The favorite vari- 
 eties are the Trophy, Champion Cluster, and Conqueror. 
 
 TURNIP, (Brassica campestris.) 
 
 The Turnip, if wanted for an early crop, is sown in 
 early spring, as directed for beets. The best sorts are the 
 varieties known as White and Purple-top Strap-leaved 
 and Yellow Aberdeen. If for winter or fall use, sowing 
 should be deferred until July or August. The Euta 
 Baga or Swedes, being sown in July, and the earlier 
 winter sorts, such as Yellow Globe or Flat Dutch, are 
 sown in August. 
 
222 GAKDENIKG FOS PLEASURE. 
 
 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 In concluding the section of this book devoted to veg- 
 etable growing, we will give a few general instructions 
 that may have been omitted in the details already given. 
 In sowing all kinds of seeds, more particularly those of 
 small size, be careful, if the soil is dry, to **firm" or 
 press down the surface of the bed or row after sowing, 
 with a light roller or back of a spade, more especially if 
 the weather is beginning to get warm. Crops are often 
 lost through, the failure of the seeds to germinate, for 
 the simple reason that the soil is left loose about the tiny 
 seeds, and the dry atmosphere penetrates to them, shriv- 
 eling them up until all vitality is destroyed. Again for 
 the same reason, when setting out plants of any kind, be 
 certain that the soil is pressed close to the root. In our 
 large plantings in market gardening, particularly in sum- 
 mer, we make.it a rule in dry weather to turn back on 
 the row after planting it with the dibber or trowel, and 
 press the earth firmly to each plant with the foot ; we 
 have seen whole acres of celery and cabbage plants lost, 
 solely through neglect of this precaution. Never work 
 the soil while it is so wet as to clog, better wait a week 
 for it to dry than to stir it if wet. In no work in Vfhich 
 men are engaged is the adage, "A stitch in time saves 
 nine," more applicable than to the work of the farm or 
 garden. The instant that weeds appear, attack them 
 with the hoe or rake ; do not wait for them to ret a 
 foot high, or a twelfth part of it, but break every inch of 
 the surface crust of the ground just so soon as a germ of 
 weed growth shows itself. And it will be better to do it 
 even before any weeds show^ for by using a small sharp 
 steel rake, two or three days after your crop is planted 
 or sown, you will kill the weeds just as their seeds are 
 germinating. The newly developed germ of the strongest 
 weed is at that time very tender. In my market garden 
 
• GARDEN IMPLEMEi^TS. 2^3 
 
 operations I had one man whose almost exclusive duty 
 it was to work in summer with the steel rake, and in a 
 few days after a crop was planted, the surface was raked 
 over, destroying the thousands of weeds just ready to ap- 
 pear. Had we waited for the weeds to be seen, so that 
 they were too large to be destroyed by the raking, four 
 men could not have done with the hoe the work accom- 
 plished by. this man with the rake. 
 
 CHAPTER LL 
 GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 The tool-shed is an important and necessary append- 
 age to a well kept garden. The following list includes such 
 implements as are generally needed in private gardens : 
 
 The Wheelbaiirow, (Fig. 102). — The wheelbarrow is 
 
 Fig. 102.— GARDEN WHEELBARROW. 
 
 an important yehicle in the garden, for the moving of 
 soils, carrying manures, and for conveying the products 
 of the vegetable garden to the house or place of storage, 
 and numerous other purposes. It may be purchased of 
 different sizes and styles, or can be *^ home-made" by 
 those possessing a little mechanical skill. 
 
224 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 The Spade, (Fig. 103). — The uses of the spade in a 
 garden are too obvious, and general, to need description. 
 The best in use are Ames' cast-steel, which are light, 
 strong, and durable, and work clean and bright. 
 
 The Shoyel, (Fig. 104). — The shovel is used for load- 
 ing, and for mixing and spreading composts and short 
 manures. They are made with long or short handles. 
 
 The Diggiitg Fork, (Fig. 105), or Forking Spade, is 
 used instead of a spade to dig in 
 manures, to loosen the earth about 
 the roots of trees, or for taking up 
 root crops ; being less liable to cut 
 or injure them than the 
 spade. It is often 
 
 Fig. 103. Fig. 104. Fig. 105. Fig. 106. Fig. 107. Fig. 108. 
 used instead of the spade, as by its aid the soil can be 
 more readily broken and pulverized. 
 
 The Makure Fork, (Fig. 106). — Is made of cast-steel 
 with from four to six prongs, and is used for mixing, 
 
GAEDEN" IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 225 
 
 loading, and spreading manures, work which could not 
 be efficiently done without it. 
 
 The Common or Draw Hoe. — There are several 
 patterns of draw hoes, but the one in general use is the 
 common square hoe, as represented in fig. 107. Its 
 uses in the garden are manifold, and it has frequently to 
 do duty for several other implements. Its principle uses 
 are to clean the surface of the ground from weeds, to 
 open trenches for seeds, and to cover them. 
 
 The Prong Hoe, (Fig. 108). — This is one of the most 
 useful of all garden tools, and is far superior to the blade 
 hoe for stirring and pulverizing the soil. It cannot, it 
 is true, be used where weeds have been allowed to grow to 
 any considerable hight, but then we claim that in all well 
 regulated gardens, weeds should never be allowed to grow 
 so large that they cannot be destroyed by the prong hoe. 
 
 The Dutch or Push Hoe, (Fig. 109), is sometimes 
 preferred to the preceding 
 for cutting the weeds be- 
 tween the rows of vege- 
 tables, a work which can be 
 done very quickly by its aid ; 
 
 Fig. 109. 
 
 Fi^. 110. 
 
 Fig. 111. Fig. 113. Fig. 113. 
 
 it is not so generally useful as the draw hoe, but is better 
 for the special purposes of destroying weeds. 
 The Reel and Line, (Fig. 110), are necessary in 
 
226 GARDEKIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 every well regulated garden, enabling us to plant in 
 straight and accurate rows. The line should be of strong 
 hemp, and is wound upon the reel when not in use. 
 
 The Pruning Saw, (Fig. Ill), is used for cutting off 
 branches that are too large for the knife, for removing 
 dead ones, etc. It can be had in various sizes, from 
 fourteen to twenty inches in length. 
 
 The Garden Trowel, (Fig. 112), is used for setting 
 the smaller kinds of plants when transferred from pots to 
 the open ground; for transplanting annuals and many 
 other uses, it is a very necessary little implement. 
 
 Pruning and Budding Knives, (Fig. 113), are ne- 
 cessary to every gardener. They are of different sizes 
 and shapes, for the various purposes of grafting, bud- 
 ding, etc., and are made of the best steel. 
 
 Grape Scissors. — These are slender-pointed scissors, 
 used for thinning out the berries of foreign grapes when 
 
 Fig. 114. — LAWN SCTTHE. 
 
 they are about half grown, so that those that are left 
 may have room to develop. This operation should never 
 be neglected if large berries and well shaped bunches 
 are desired. 
 
 Flower Gatherers. — A very useful article ; the 
 scissors cutting off, and at the same time holding fast 
 the flower or fruit after it is cut, thus enabling one 
 to reach much farther to cut flowers or fruits than if 
 both hands had to be used. It is particularly useful in 
 gathering rose-buds, as the stem can be cut off with but 
 little danger from the thorns. 
 
 Lawn Scythes, (Fig. 114).— The lawn scythe is now 
 but little used, the lawn mower taking its place, unless 
 
GAEDEK IMPLEMEi^^TS. 
 
 227 
 
 on hill-sides or among trees or shrubs, where the lawn 
 mower cannot be worked. 
 
 Lawk Mowers, (Fig. 115). — The great improvements 
 made in Lawn 
 Mowers during the 
 past few years, and 
 the low price at 
 which they may 
 now be obtained, 
 have made their 
 introduction com- 
 mon to every gar- 
 den. They are of 
 many sizes, from 
 the small machine 
 that can be easily 
 worked by a boy, ^ig- iis.-la'wn mower. 
 
 and admirably adapted for city garden plots, to the 
 large horse mowers, that may be daily seen in nse in our 
 larger parks. We have in use both the '' Excelsior " and 
 '^ Archimedean" Lawn Mowers, and have found them 
 excellent in all respects. 
 
 The Garden Eoller, (Fig. 116), is indispensable to 
 a well kept lawn, and should always 
 follow after mowing, keeping the 
 ground level and compact ; and after 
 gravel walks have been raked over, the 
 roller is necessary to smooth them down. 
 
 The Wooden Lawn Eake, (Fig. 
 11?), is used for raking off lawns pre- 
 vious to and after using the scythe or 
 lawn mower, and for removing dead 
 Fig. 116.— ROLLER, leaves and other rubbish. 
 The Eake, (Fig. 118), is used to level the surface of the 
 ground after it has been spaded or hoed, and to prepare 
 
228 
 
 GAKDENIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 it for the reception of seeds or plants. Eakes are made 
 of different sizes, for convenience in using between rows 
 
 of plants, with from six to six- 
 teen teeth. When a crop like 
 cabbages is newly planted, we 
 use the rake in preference to 
 anything else, as raking over the 
 surface before the weeds start 
 to grow, destroys the germ of 
 the weed, neyer allowing it to 
 appear at all. 
 
 The Grass Edgin-g Knife, 
 (Fig. 119), is used for cutting 
 the grass edgings of flower-beds, 
 its rounded edge fitting into 
 curved lines, for which the 
 spade would be unsuitable. 
 
 Fig. 117. Fig. 118. 
 
 Fig. 120. 
 
 Fiar. 121. 
 
 Fig. 122. 
 
 The Sickle, (Fig. 120).— This is a most useful imple- 
 ment for switching around and trimming off grass, in 
 
GARDEi^ IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 229 
 
 places where the scythe or lawn mower cannot be used, 
 or where the place to be cut is small. 
 
 Hedge Shears, (Fig. 121), are better fitted for clip- 
 ping hedges than the Bill Hook, some- 
 times used for the purpose, particularly 
 in inexperienced hands. A line should 
 be set at the hight to which the hedge 
 is to be cut, as a- guide to work by. 
 
 Hajh^d-Prunikg Shears, (Fig. 122). 
 — These are very eificient and 
 useful ; they will cut off a small 
 branch as clean as if a knife 
 had been used. They are in- 
 dispensable in pruning small 
 fruit-trees and vines, and for 
 use in the grapery and garden. 
 
 Pole or Tree Pruning 
 Shears, (Fig. 123). — These 
 shears are attached to a pole, 
 and operated by means of a lever 
 moved by a cord or a wire ; 
 they enable one to cut off branch- 
 es from trees, shrubbery, etc., 
 that are beyond the reach of 
 the ordinary pruning shears. 
 Branches of an inch and a half in diameter may be easily 
 cut off with this instrument. 
 
 Garden Syringe, (Fig. 124). — The syringe is in 
 
 Fig. 123.— TREE PRUTSTER. 
 
 Fig. 124.— GARDEN SYRINGE. 
 
 daily use in the greenhouse or conservatory, where syr- 
 inging is necessary to keep the plants in a flourishing 
 
230 
 
 gaiidb^i:i!n^g fou pleasure. 
 
 and healthy condition. They are made of several sizes 
 and patterns, and fitted with roses for dispersing water 
 with varying force. 
 
 Waterikg-Pot. — A watering-pot is indispensable in 
 the greenhouse or conservatory, 
 where it is daily needed. It 
 should be obtained of a suit- 
 able size, from one to four gal- 
 lons, with a rose for sprinkling, 
 which may be detached at will. 
 
 The Excelsior Pump, (Fig. 
 125), is a very compact and use- 
 ful implement for greenhouse 
 and garden work. It is easily 
 operated, and throws a continu- 
 ous stream. It is very effective 
 for watering shrubbery, gardens, 
 or lawns, and may be used in an 
 emergency as a fire extinguish- 
 er and prevent a conflagration. 
 
 The Sidkey Seed-Sower, I'ig. 125.-exoelsiob pump. 
 (Fig. 126). — This is a very usefal implement, enabling 
 
 Fig. 126. • Fig. 128. 
 
 the operator to sow seeds with perfect regularity, especi- 
 ally in wet or windy weather. It will distribute large or 
 
GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 231 
 
 small seeds with equal regularity, either broadcast or in 
 drills or pots. 
 
 The Excelsior Weeding Hook, (Fig. 127), is a very 
 
 handy implement 
 for removing weeds 
 from among small 
 and tender plants, 
 and for stirring up 
 the soil. It can be 
 used between rows 
 of seedlings, orna- 
 mental plants, or 
 
 Fig. 129.— SMALL GAEDEN SET. 
 
 wherever it is desirable to remove weeds, without in- 
 jury to the plants or soiling the hands. 
 
 Notes' Hand Weeder, (Fig. 128), is a kind of minia- 
 ture hand hoe, and is very convenient and useful for 
 working between plants, 
 dressing pots, and clean- 
 ing away weeds, where a 
 large hoe could not be 
 used to good advantage. 
 
 Ladies' and Chil- 
 DRENs' Garden Tools, 
 (Fig. 129).— In all flower 
 gardens there is a great 
 deal of hand-work to be 
 done. This lot of small 
 implements consisting of 
 a spade, fork, rake, and 
 hoe, will be found very 
 useful in working on 
 small flower borders. 
 
 Step Ladders, (Fig. 130).— The step-ladder is always 
 useful in a garden, especially during the fruiting season. 
 It is made in different sizes, varying from three to ten 
 
 Fig. 130.— STEP LADDER. 
 
232 
 
 GAHDEJ^ING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 Fig. 131.— HAND GLASS. 
 
 feet, and weighing from ten to thirty pounds ; it is made 
 with flat steps, so that a person may stand upon them 
 while working, and can be extended or contracted as re- 
 quired. For use amongst large trees, in the orchard, a 
 much greater length of ladder is required, and there are 
 various forms of orchard ladders in use, but the step- 
 ladder is sufficient for all ordinary garden uses. 
 
 -Haitd-Glasses. — The uses of these have been men- 
 tioned under cauliflowers, cucumber, etc. Home-made 
 
 hand-glasses, being simply a 
 small frame covered with a pane 
 of glass, are very useful, but as 
 they exclude some light they 
 are not equal to those made with 
 f "IBIi glass all around. Hand-glasses 
 with metal frames and glass 
 sides and top, are made of differ- 
 ent sizes and styles, one of the 
 more elaborate of which is shown in fig. 131. Though 
 somewhat expensive, they will, if carefully used, last 
 many years. 
 
 Trellises, or supports for plants, are needed in the 
 flower and vegetable garden not only for climbers, but 
 for keeping plants which have weak 
 stems within proper bounds. Trel- 
 lises for pots may be purchased 
 ready-made, as may those for climb- 
 ing roses and such plants ; they are 
 usually made of rattan upon a frame 
 of light wooden stakes, and some 
 are made entirely of wire. A per- 
 son of a mechanical turn can 
 readily make all that will be need- 
 ed. A few engravings are given here as suggestions. 
 Fig. 132 shows a useful support made with a barrel hoop 
 and staves ; the same plan may be carried out with two 
 
 Fig. 132. 
 
GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 233 
 
 or more hoops, and laths, if staves are too heavy. This 
 will answer for tomatoes, raspberries, and various other 
 
 plants. A more 
 permanent to- 
 mato trellis is 
 shown in fig. 
 133, in which 
 slats are sup- 
 ported by jY 
 H_ shaped up- 
 Nj //;/ -^- _-— -- ^^^^^y ---^^^^ij^^ rights. If put 
 
 zf^^ together with 
 
 screws, such a 
 
 trellis may be 
 
 ^ " carefully put 
 
 away in the fall 
 
 A rustic trellis, like that 
 
 -TOMATO TKELLIS. 
 
 Fig. 133. 
 
 and made to last several years. 
 in fig. 134, is often useful in the flower garden, or it 
 may serve when covered with climbers to divide the 
 flower from the 
 vegetable gar- 
 den. It is made 
 of sticks of cedar 
 or other durable 
 wood, set 
 shown in 
 engraving, 
 tied where 
 bars cross 
 another 
 
 strong tarred 
 twine. With 
 these examples 
 as suggestions, one will find no difficulty in making more 
 elaborate supports and with other materials. 
 
 Fisf. 134.— RUSTIC TELIL1«« 
 
:34 GARDEKIJs'G FOE FLEASUEE. 
 
 MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPEEATIONS. 
 
 Altbougli I have endeavored througbout the foregoing pages to 
 be particular in stating the season or date at which each gardening 
 operation should be done, still it may save time to the novice, and 
 be otherwise of advantage, to briefly suggest what work should be 
 done each month. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower-Gabden. — But little need now be 
 done in either; in the greenhouse care must be exercised with the 
 fires to protect against frost, as this is usually the coldest month 
 of the year ; it is also that in which there is the least sunshine. 
 But little ventilating need be done, but when it does become neces- 
 sary to do it, caution must be used ; be careful to raise the ven- 
 tilating sash only so high that the heated air from the green- 
 house will be able to drive back the outer air to such an extent as 
 not to chill the plants. For example, occasionally after a very 
 cold night, where severe firing has been necessary to keep up the 
 required temperature, say to 60°, it happens that the sun comes 
 out bright during the following day, so that by noon or before, 
 the temperature may be at 100" inside the greenhouse, though out- 
 side it may be nearly at zero ; in such case the raising of the sashes 
 an inch or two will rapidly lower the temperature of the green- 
 house, so that an hour or so of such ventilating would be all that is 
 required. If the greenhouss is heated by flue or even by hot 
 water, examine nightly, that no combustible material is laid on the 
 flue or thrown against the chimney of the boiler. As little fresh 
 air can be given, insects are to be watched this month closely; by 
 the use of fire heat a dry atmosphere will be created in which the 
 red spider luxuriates ; nothing answers so well for its destruction 
 as copiously syringing the plants at night, and splashing the paths 
 with water, as it cannot exist to an injurious extent in a moist at- 
 mosphere. The Aphis, or "green fly," must also be destroyed, or 
 it will soon cause great injury to the plants. Tobacco in almost 
 any form is death to it ; it may be either used by burning the 
 stems or dusted on as snufi", or syringed on in liquid form ; for full 
 directions see body of the work. Hyacinths and other bulbs that 
 
MOi^THLY CALEJ^DAR OF OPERATIONS. 235 
 
 have been kept in cellar or other dark, cool place, may now be 
 brought into the light of the greenhouse, provided they have filled 
 the pots with roots, if not well rooted, leave them where they are 
 until they are so, or select such of them as are best, and leave the 
 others until ready. In the outside flower-garden litcle can be done 
 except that shrubs may be pruned, or new work, such as making 
 walks or grading, if weather permits. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — Pruning, staking up, or mulching, can be 
 done if the weather is such that the workman can stand out. No 
 plant is injured by being pruned in cold weather, though the 
 pruner may be. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — Nothing can be done this month in the 
 northern states except to prepare manure, and get sashes, tools, 
 etc., in working order, but in sections of the country where there 
 is but little or no frost, the hardier kinds of seeds and plants may 
 be sown and planted, such as asparagus, cabbage, cauliflower, car- 
 rot, leek, lettuce, onion, parsnip, peas, spinach, turnip, etc., etc. 
 In any section where these seeds can be sown in the open ground, 
 it is an indication that hot-beds may be begun for the sowing of 
 such tender vegetables as tomatoes, egg and pepper plants, etc., 
 though unless in the extreme southern states, hot-beds had better 
 not be started before the first of February. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower- Garden. — The directions for Jan- 
 uary will in the main apply to this month, except that now some 
 of the hardier annuals may be sown, and also the propagation of 
 plants by cuttings may be done rather better now than in January, 
 for instructions in such matters, see chapter on Propagation. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — But little can be done in most of the northern 
 states as yet, and in sections where there is no frost in the ground, 
 it is likely to be too wet to work, but in many southern states this 
 will be the best month for planting fruit-trees and plants of all 
 kinds, particularly strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, pear and 
 apple, while grape-vines will do quite a month later. One of the 
 greatest wants in many parts of the south is reliable nurseries, 
 where such things can be procured, and as all such plants are at 
 this season frozen solid in nurseries at the north, orders for such 
 things cannot usually be shipped before April ; still though some- 
 thing may be lost by this circumstance, if proper attention is given 
 to planting, watering, and shading, (when practicable), good re- 
 
236 GAKDENING FOB PLEASURE. 
 
 suits may be obtained, as it is always better to take plants of any 
 kind from a cold climate to a hot one, than from a hot to a cold. 
 Vegetable Garden. — Horse manure, leaves from the woods, or 
 refuse hops from the breweries, when they can be obtained, may 
 be got together towards the latter part of the month and mixed 
 and turned to get *' sweetened" preparatory to forming hot-beds; 
 for detailed instructions see article on hot-beds. Manure that is 
 to be used for the crops should be turned and broken up as fine as 
 possible, for it should be known that the more completely manure 
 of any kind can be mixed with the soil, the better will be the crop, 
 and of course if it is dug or plowed-in in large unbroken lumps, it 
 cannot be properly commingled. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower-Garden. — Brighter sunshine and 
 longer days will now begin to show their effects by a rapid growth 
 of plants in the greenhouse, and also in those of the parlor or 
 window garden ; examine all plants that are growing vigorously 
 and are healthy, and if the roots have struck to the sides of the 
 pot and matted the " ball " of earth, then they must be shifted into 
 larger sized pots ; if this is long neglected the plants are certain to 
 suffer in consequence ; for details of operations see chapter on 
 Potting. The plants propagated last month may now need shift- 
 ing also, and propagation should continue of all plants that are 
 likely to be wanted. If propagation is put off later, most plants 
 would not be large enough if needed for bedding purposes in the 
 flower-garden in summer. The hardier kinds of annuals may now 
 be sown ; it is best done in boxes, as recommended elsewhere. 
 Lawns may now be raked off and top-dressed with short manure 
 or rich garden earth where manure is not obtainable, and on light 
 soils flower-beds may be dug up so as to forward the work prepar- 
 atory to the coming of the busy season. 
 
 Fruit-Garden.— In light, dry soils planting may be safely done 
 in many sections, but we again caution the inexperienced not to 
 get impatient and begin to plant before the ground is dry ; it is 
 bad to do so even in light sandy soils, but in stiff and clayey ones 
 it will be utter destruction. Again at this season, although a tree 
 or plant will receive no injury when Us roots are in the soil, should 
 a frost come after planting, yet that same amount of freezmg 
 would greatly injure the plant if the roots were uncovered and ex- 
 posed. Thousands of trees and plants fail every year from this 
 
MOi^THLY CALENDAR OF OPEEATIONS. 237 
 
 cause ; they are exposed for sale in our tflarkets with no protec- 
 tion to the roots, and even the experienced purchaser rarely has 
 sufficient knowledge to be certain whether the roots of a tree have 
 been injured by being frozen or dried up by the cold winds of 
 March. It is always best when it can be done, to purchase direct 
 from the nearest reliable nurserymen ; they well know the import- 
 ance of having the roots properly protected, while in two cases out 
 of three the market huckster neither knows nor cares. 
 
 Vegetable Gakden. — This is a busy month. Hot-beds must 
 now be all started, and all the seeds of the hardier vegetables may 
 be sown in locations where the frost is out and the ground dry, 
 the list given for southern states in January may now be used at 
 the north, while for most of the southern states the tender kinds 
 of vegetables may now be sown and planted, such as egg-plant, 
 okra, melon, sweet potatoes, squash, tomatoes, potatoes, etc. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower- Garden. — Plants whether grown 
 in greenhouse or in windows, will require increased ventilation 
 and water this month, and as they will now be growing rapidly, 
 due attention must be paid to shifting into larger pots when neces- 
 sary, and also increase the space if possible by putting the hardier 
 sorts out in frames. If plants are crowded at this season in the 
 greenhouse, they will grow spindling and weak. It is better to 
 throw away the common or coarser plants if there is not room for 
 the finer sorts to develop properly. Towards the end of the month 
 it may be necessary to partially shade the glass of the greenhouse ; 
 this may be either done by sheeting hung on rollers from the top, 
 or more simply and cheaply by making a very thin whitewash of 
 lime ; this may be spattered over the glass very lightly at first, just 
 to mark the glass with white spots as thick as if a slight shower 
 should leave the marks of its drops. The wash is to be spattered 
 on thicker every week or two, as the season advances. The plant- 
 ing of all kinds of hardy herbaceous plants and shrubs may now 
 be done in the flower-garden. Bulbs and all tender plants that 
 have been covered for protection in winter may now be stripped, 
 and the beds slightly forked and raked. Sow tender annual flower 
 seeds in boxes. 
 
 Frtjit-Garden. — Strawberries that have been covered up by 
 straw or leaves, should now be relieved around the plant, only 
 leaving the covering between the plants ; see chapter on Strawber- 
 
238 GARDENIjq^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 lies. Raspberries, grape-vines, etc., that have been laid down may 
 now be uncovered and tied up to stakes or trellises, and all new 
 plantations of these and other fruits should now be made. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — The covering of asparagus, rhubarb, 
 spinach, etc., should now be removed, and the beds hoed or dug 
 lightly. The hardier sorts of vegetable seeds and plants, such as 
 beets, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, onions, parsley, parsnip, 
 peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, turnip, etc., should all be sown 
 or planted by the middle of the month, if the soil is dry and 
 warm, and in all cases where practicable before the end of the 
 month, for if these varieties of vegetables are delayed until the hot 
 weather in May, they will not be so early, and in most cases will 
 not produce so fine a crop. It is quite a common practice with 
 many amateurs to delay garden operations of all kinds until May, 
 but all the hardier sorts of vegetables are likely to be later and 
 inferior in consequence. Any one expecting to get early cabbage, 
 lettuce, or radishes, if planting or sowing is delayed until the time 
 of planting tomato and egg plants in May, is certain to be disap- 
 pointed. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower- Garden. — The majority of plants 
 in the greenhouse or window garden should now be in their finest 
 bloom. Firing may now be entirely dispensed with in the green- 
 house, though care must yet be exercised in ventilating in the first 
 part of the month, as we still have cold winds in this section. 
 By the end of the month all of the plants that are wanted for the 
 summer decoration of the flower borders may be planted out. In 
 doing so, when the ball of earth has been completely matted with 
 roots, it will be better to bruise it slightly between the hands, so 
 that the water will pass freely through the " ball," as it often hap- 
 pens that it is so hard and dry as to prevent the water from pene- 
 trating it, and the growth is impeded in consequence. Water co- 
 piously after planting if the weather is dry. When the greenhouse 
 is not to be used during the summer months, camellias, azaleas, and 
 plants of that character should be set out-doors under partial 
 shade, but most of the other plants usually kept in the greenhouse 
 or window garden in winter, may be set in the open border, where 
 the pots should be plunged to the rim in ashes or sand, keeping 
 them slightly apart from each other, to prevent crowding. Where 
 there are indications that the pot has become filled with roots, the 
 plant should bo shifted into a size larger just as it is done inside 
 
MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 239 
 
 the greenhouse ; as the plants make growth, they with few excep- 
 tions should be pinched back to cause a stout and branching 
 form. Lawns should now be mown and edgings trimmed 
 nicely, and all flower-beds hoed and raked, for if weeds are not 
 kept down as they first appear, treble the labor will be required to 
 eradicate them next month. Annuals that have been sown in the 
 greenhouse or hot-bed may now be planted out, and seeds of such 
 sorts as Mignonette, Sweet Alyssum, Phlox Drummondii, Portu- 
 laca, etc., etc., may be sown in the borders. 
 
 Fruit-Gakden. — Where it has not been convenient before, most 
 of the smaller fruits may yet be planted the first part of the month. 
 Ply the hoe vigorously to keep down weeds. If any of the nu- 
 merous varieties of caterpillars, slugs, or worms make their appear- 
 ance on the young shoots of vines or trees, a free application of 
 tobacco dust will dislodge most of them. It is best to use it as a 
 preventive, for if they once get a foothold, the crop may be ruined. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — Thin out all crops sown last month, 
 that are now large enough, and hoe deeply all planted crops, such 
 as cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, etc. Plant out all tender vegeta- 
 bles, viz : tomatoes, egg and pepper plants, sweet potatoes, etc. 
 Plant seeds of lima beans, corn, melons, okra, cucumbers, etc., and 
 succession crops of peas, spinach, lettuce, beans, etc. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Greeehouse and Flower-Garden. — The greenhouse may 
 now be used for hot-house or tropical plants, if such are de- 
 sired during the summer months. It should now be well shaded 
 and fine specimens of fancy caladiums, dracsenas, palms, ferns, 
 and such plants as are grown for their beauty of foliage will make 
 it very attractive. Hyacinths, Tulips, and other spring bulbs may 
 now hs dug up, dried, and placed away for next fall's planting, 
 and their places filled with such plants as Coleus, Achyranthes, 
 and the various " white-leaved plants " that are suited for late bed- 
 ding. Lawns will now require to be mowed weekly in all well- 
 kept places. It is as much an indication of slovenliness to see a 
 door-yard that has any pretensions to be called a lawn, with the 
 grass uncut, as it would be to see a dust begrimed carpet in the 
 parlor. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — If strawberries have not been mulched with 
 hay or straw in winter, the cut grass from the lawn is a convenient 
 thing to place between the rows to keep the fruit from getting 
 
240 GARDENIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 sanded by dashing rains. Nearly all the small fruits, such as 
 gooseberries, raspberries, etc., etc., are much improved by having 
 a mulching of some sort placed around the roots, which should be 
 done this month. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — This is usually the busiest month in the 
 garden, crops mature and have to be gathered, and while doing 
 so, weeds are apt to steal a march on you, and may destroy entirely 
 some of your hard work of former mouths, unless you attack them 
 in their embryo stage, that is just when breaking through the soil. 
 A man will hoe and rake over six times the surface of soil when 
 the weeds are in this stage that he would if weeds were six inches 
 high, and in this matter more than anything else I know of in 
 gardening, does a " stitch in time save nine." Beans, peas, beets, 
 corn, cucumbers, lettuce, etc., may yet be sown for succession 
 crops, and late plantings of Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes will 
 yet do well on suitable soils. Tomatoes should be tied up to trel- 
 lises or stakes, if fine flavored and handsome fruit is desired. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower-Garden. — But little may be said of 
 the greenhouse this month. Watering, ventilating, and fumigat- 
 ing, (or the use of tobacco in other forms for destruction of aphis), 
 must be attended to. Keep the atmosphere of the greenhouse 
 moist. The plants from the greenhouse that may have been 
 plunged out-doors, must be watched when they require repotting, 
 and where the roots have run through the pots, they should also 
 be occasionally turned round, to break them off, for if this is 
 not done now, it would seriously injure the plant in fall when 
 the roots have run through the pot and deep into the soil, as they 
 often do. Plants such as dahlias, roses, gladioluses, as well as 
 many herbaceous perennial and annual plants, will now require 
 staking ; be careful to proportion the size of the stake to that of 
 the plant, and do not tie it too tightly. Stakes painted green look 
 best, and the square are nearly as good as the round ones, and 
 much cheaper. Carnations and other plants that are throwing up 
 flower-stems, if wanted to flower in winter, should be cut back. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — If there are any signs of mildew on the grape- 
 vine leaves, dust them over with dry sulphur, choosing a still, 
 warm day. The fruit will now be gathered from the strawberry 
 vines, and if new beds are to be formed, the system recommended 
 of layering the plants in small pots is the best ; see Strawberries. 
 
MONTHLY CALEl^DAR OF OPERATIOKS. 241 
 
 Where apples, pears, peaches, etc. , have set fruit thickly, thin out 
 one-half or two-thii'ds of the young fruit, as by doing so you will 
 get at least an equal weight and much finer fruit. The same is 
 true of grape-vines and all other fruits that have set thickly; 
 where thinning out is practicable, it will always be beneficial to 
 practice it. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — Plants of cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, 
 and all similar varieties of vegetables wanted for fall or winter use 
 are best planted this month, though in some sections they will do 
 if left until next. See directions given under these separate heads. 
 Sweet corn, beans, cucumbers and lettuce may yet be planted for 
 late crops, and in some sections ruta-baga turnips for the main 
 winter crop. Tomatoes should be kept tied up to stakes or trel- 
 lises, and sweet potatoes must be hoed so as to prevent the vines 
 rooting at the joints. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Greenhouse and FLOWER-GARDEr. — The instructions for 
 July apply with but little variation in these departments this 
 month. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — Strawberries that were planted in spring, and 
 also those that have fruited will now be making " ninners " or 
 young plants freely. All runners should be kept cut off close to 
 the old plant, so that the full force of the root is expended in ma- 
 turing the " crowns " or fruit buds of the next season's crop. If 
 plants are wanted for fresh plantations, about the required number 
 can be allowed to run, but should be layered in pots, as recom- 
 mended under Strawberries. Cut away the old stems of raspber- 
 ries and blackberries that have borne their fruit, and thin out the 
 young shoots to three or four canes to each hill or plant, if tied to 
 stakes and topped when 4 or 5 feet high, they will make stronger 
 canes for fruiting next year. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — Planted crops, such as cabbage, cauli- 
 flower, and celery, should be hoed deeply. We do not recom- 
 mend the earthing up of celery this month. Onions will in many 
 sections now be ready for harvesting ; this condition will be 
 known by the tops becoming yellow and falling down ; they are 
 best dried by placing them in some dry shed in thin layers. For 
 sweet potatoes, see directions of last month. Spinach may be 
 sown for early fall use, but it is yet too early to sow for the winter 
 crop. Red-top, White Globe, and Yellow Aberdeen turnips should 
 11 
 
242 GARDEKIKG FOR PLEASUIIE. 
 
 now be sown. Ruta-baga turnips sown last month will need 
 thinning. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower-Garden.— Towards the end of the 
 
 month in many sections, the more tender plants will require to be 
 put in the greenhouse, or housed in some way, but be careful to 
 •keep them as cool as possible during the day ; they would be bet- 
 ter outside yet if it was safe to risk them. Cuttings of all bedding 
 plants may now be made freely, if w^anted for next season, as the 
 young cuttings rooted in fall make better plants for next spring's 
 use than the old plants. This is true of what is known as bedding 
 plants, such as geraniums, fuchsias, verbenas, heliotropes, etc., etc. 
 But with roses and other plants of a woody nature, the old plants 
 are usually the best. Holland bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, 
 etc., etc., and most of the varieties of lilies may be planted this 
 month ; see detailed instructions under Holland Bulbs. Violets 
 that are wanted for winter will now be growing freely, and the 
 runners should be trimmed off as recommended for strawberries 
 last month. Seeds of pansies, daisies, mignonette, sweet alyssum, 
 candytuft, etc., should now be sown in the early part of the month. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — New plantations of strawberry plants may 
 now be made from the runners that have been layered in pots ; the 
 sooner in the month they are planted, the stronger they will be for 
 next season ; these plants will soon make runners that must be 
 trimmed off to throw the strength into the crowns for next season's 
 fruiting. Attend to raspberries and blackberries as advised last 
 month, if not then done. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — Seeds of cabbage, cauliflower, and let- 
 tuce to raise plants to be placed in cold frames, should be sown in 
 this latitude from the 10th to the 20th of this month ; the main 
 crop of spinach or sprouts that is wanted for winter or spring use, 
 should be sown about same dates. Celery may now have the 
 earth drawn to it with the hoe preparatory to earthing-up by the 
 spade. Onions that were not dried and harvested last month, 
 must be done this, or it will be too late. The early or flat sorts of 
 turnips may yet be sown the first week of this month. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower-Garden. — In almost all northem 
 localities, all tender plants yet outside should be got under cover 
 
MOIs"THLT CALENDAR OF OPERATTO]S"S. 243 
 
 the early part of this month. Avoid the use of fire heat as 
 long as possible ; unless the nights become cold enough to chill the 
 plants inside of the house, they are better without fire heat. When 
 there is indication that the night is likely to be cold, let down the 
 sashes that have been raised for ventilation, early in the afternoon, 
 and thus shut up the heated air until next day. If there is a cold 
 frame or pit at hand, the hardier sorts of plants, such as roses, car- 
 nations, camellias, azaleas, etc. , will do better if placed there until 
 middle of November, than in the ordinary greenhouse. Treated 
 in this manner they make strong, healthy roots, that enable them 
 to withstand the forcing process better when placed in the green- 
 house. Look out for and destroy insects ; see methods already 
 given. ■ The planting of fall bulbs of all kinds may continue dur- 
 ing this month. Dahlias, tuberoses, gladiolus, cannas, caladiums, 
 tigridias, and all tender bulbs or tubers that are planted in spring, 
 should be taken up before the end of the month, dried and stowed 
 away in some place free from frost during winter. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — Strawberries that have been layered in pots 
 may yet be planted this month ; great care should be taken to trim 
 ofi" runners from early plantings. All kinds of fruit-trees and shrubs 
 may be set out ; if planting is deferred to the last of the month, 
 the ground around the roots should be mulched to the thickness of 
 three or four inches, with leaves, straw, or rough manure, as a 
 protection to the roots against the frost. 
 
 Vegetable Garden. — This is one of the busiest fall months in 
 the kitchen garden, celery will now be in full growth, and Avill re- 
 quire close attention to earthing-up, and during the last part of the 
 month, the first lot may be stored away in trenches for winter ; 
 see Celery ; beets, carrots, parsnips, squash, sweet potatoes, and all 
 other roots not designed to be left in the ground during winter, 
 should be dug by the end of the month. The cabbage, cauliflower, 
 and lettuce plants from the seed sown about the middle of last 
 month, should now be pricked out in cold frames. If lettuce is 
 wanted for winter use, it may be now planted in the greenhouse, 
 and will be ready for use by Christmas. Rhubarb and asparagus, 
 if wanted for use in winter, should be taken up in large clumps 
 and stowed away in pit, frame, shed, or cellar for a month or two, 
 when it may be taken into the greenhouse and packed closely to- 
 gether under the stage, and will be fit for use from January to 
 March, according to the temperature of the house. 
 
244 GARDEKIJS^G FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower- Garden. — All plants should now 
 be in-doors ; a sharp look-out must be kept for cold snaps. 
 These often come very unexpectedly in November, and as many 
 plants are injured by frost in this as there are in the colder 
 months, when the enemy is more closely watched for. When fire 
 heat is freely used, be careful to keep up the proper supply of 
 moisture by syringing, sprinkling the paths, etc. In the flower- 
 garden nothing is now to be done except to clean off dead stalks 
 and straw up tender roses, vines, etc., and wherever there is time, 
 to dig up and rake the borders, as it will greatly facilitate 
 spring work. All beds where hyacinths or other fall bulbs have 
 been planted, had better be covered with rough litter or leaves 
 to the depth of two or three inches. If short, thoroughly de- 
 cayed manure can be spared, a good sprinkling spread over the 
 lawn will help it to a finer growth in spring. 
 
 Fruit-Garden. — In cold sections the hay or straw mulching 
 recommended in the chapter on the Strawberry may be put on 
 during the last of this month. Grape-vines and fruit-trees gener- 
 ally should be pruned, and if wood of the vine is wanted for cut- 
 tings, or cions of fruit-trees for grafts, they should be tied in small 
 neat bunches and buried in the ground until spring. 
 
 Vegetable Garden.~A11 celery that is to be stored for 
 winter use, should be put away before the end of the month in all 
 places north of Richmond, Va. ; south of that it may be left in 
 most places in the rows where grown if covered up. Directions 
 for storing celery for winter are given under Celery. The 
 stalks of asparagus beds should be cut over, and as asparagus some- 
 times becomes a weed, it is better to burn the stems if there are 
 berries on them. Spread a heavy dressing of rough manure three 
 or four inches thick on the beds. All roots that are yet in the 
 ground and not designed to be left there all winter, must be dug 
 up in this latitude before the middle of the month, or they may be 
 frozen in until spring; onions, spinach, sprouts, cabbage, or lettuce 
 plants that are outside should be covered with two or three inches 
 of leaves, salt hay, or straw, to protect during winter. Cabbages 
 that have headed may be usually preserved against injury by frost 
 until the middle of next month, by simply pulling them up and 
 packing them close together in a dry spot in the open field with 
 the heads down, and roots up ; on the approach of cold weather in 
 December, they should be covered up with leaves as high as the tops 
 
MONTHLY CALENDAR OF OPEEATIOK'S. 245 
 
 of the roots, or if the soil is light, it may be thrown over them if 
 leaves are not convenient ; cabbages so packed will keep until 
 March, if the covering has not been put on too early. Whenever 
 it is practicable, all empty ground should be dug or plowed this 
 month, trenching or subsoiling whenever time will permit. All 
 such operations when performed in the fall, not ODly benefit the 
 soil, but greatly facilitate work at the hurried season in the spring. 
 The cold frames where cabbage, lettuce, or cauliflower plants have 
 been planted will now require regular ventilation by lifting up the 
 sashes in warm days, and on the approach of very cold weather, 
 straw mats or shutters would be a great protection to the plants ; 
 for the cauliflower this protection is absolutely necessary here. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Greenhouse and Flower- Garden. — We are now fairly into 
 winter, and close attention must be given to protecting all 
 tender plants. It is one of the commonest complaints, especially 
 from ladies, that their plants "looked so nice until one cold night 
 in December" defeated the whole care of the year by killing or 
 wounding hundreds of the cherished favorites of the greenhouse 
 or window garden. There is no rule but vigilance, and as extra 
 strong fires will be kept up, look out again nightly for all combus- 
 tible matter near the flue or chimney. If you find the thermom- 
 eter in the greenhouse or parlor where your plants are kept, falling 
 down to 34 or 35 degrees, the chances are that there will be frost 
 in the house ; the best protection in such cases is either to set the 
 plants under the benches or on the walk if in the greenhouse, or 
 move them from the cold pomt if in the parlor; if the plants 
 are low and uniform in hight, covermg them with paper or 
 sheeting will usually save them from injury even if the thermom- 
 eter falls to 26 or 28 degrees. Another plan is to dash water on 
 the pipes or flue in the greenhouse on cold nights, the steam arises 
 to the glass, freezes there, and stops up all crevices. All mulching, 
 strawing up, or other modes of protecting against frost in use in 
 the flower-garden, must be finished this month. 
 
 Fruit-Garden.— Grape-vines, raspberries, etc., in sections where 
 protection from severe frost is of advantage, should be attended 
 to this month, by lajdng them down as near the ground as possi- 
 ble, and covering them with rough litter or leaves, or with a few 
 inches of soil. 
 
 Vegetable Garden.— The final covering of celery in trenches, 
 
246 GARDEiq^ING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 or roots in pits ; the spinach crop in ground, or any other article 
 in need of protection, must have it done before the end of this 
 month. Manure and compost heaps should now be forwarded as 
 rapidly as possible, and turned and mixed so as to be in proper 
 condition for spring. Snow that accumulates on cold frames or 
 other glass structures, should be removed, particularly if the soil 
 that the glass covers was not frozen before the snow fell ; if frozen, 
 it may remain on the sashes longer, for the plants if frozen are, of 
 course dormant, and would not be injured by being deprived of 
 light for eight or ten days. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Angle Worm 119 
 
 Annual Flowers 112 
 
 Annual Flowers, List of 112 
 
 Ants 118 
 
 ApMs, Destroying 64 
 
 Aphis, Ground or Blue 117 
 
 Apple 170 
 
 Apple, Varieties of 171 
 
 Apricot .170 
 
 Apricot, Varieties of 170 
 
 Artichoke, Globe 180 
 
 Artichoke, Jerusalem 181 
 
 Asparagus 178 
 
 Basket Balloon Frame 73 
 
 Basket, Wire 73 
 
 Baskets, Hanging 72 
 
 Bean, Bush 181 
 
 Bean, Lima 182 
 
 Bean, Pole 182 
 
 Bedding, " Carpet Style "of, 31 
 
 Beet 183 
 
 Blackberry 161 
 
 Blackberry, Varieties of 162 
 
 Bone-Dust 22 
 
 Borecole or Kale 184 
 
 Boxes for Seeds 40 
 
 Broccoli 185 
 
 Brussels Sprouts 186 
 
 Budding 47-56 
 
 Bulbs, Fall or Holland 36 
 
 Bulbs in Moss 37 
 
 Bulbs in Pots 36-37 
 
 Bulbs. Tropical 58 
 
 Cabbage 189 
 
 Caladiums, Growing 58 
 
 Camellias, Grafting 52-55 
 
 Camellias, Propagating 44 
 
 Carrot 190 
 
 Cauliflower 187 
 
 Celeriac 195 
 
 Celery 191 
 
 Cellar and Greenhouse Combined. . 99 
 Centaureas, Propagating 39 
 
 247 
 
 Chard, Swiss 217 
 
 Cherry 165 
 
 Cherry, Varieties of 166 
 
 Chives 196 
 
 Climbers, List of Hardy 106 
 
 Cordon Training of Pear Trees 172 
 
 Corn 196 
 
 Corn Salad 196 
 
 Cress 196 
 
 Cress, Indian 207 
 
 Cress, Water 196 
 
 Crocuses, Planting 36 
 
 Cucumber 197 
 
 Currants 162 
 
 Currants, Varieties of 163 
 
 Cuttings, Propagating Plants by . . . 43 
 
 Cuttings, Proper Condition of . 43 
 
 Cyclamen, Propagating 39 
 
 Designs for Gardens 27 
 
 Double Flue 94 
 
 Drain, Board 12 
 
 Drain for Road-bed 16 
 
 Drain, Rubble 11 
 
 Drain Tile 11 
 
 Driveway 15 
 
 Drive, Width of 15 
 
 Eggplant 198 
 
 Endive 199 
 
 Ferneries 83 
 
 Fertilizers, Adulteration of 20 
 
 Fertilizers, Concentrated 18 
 
 Fertilizers, Cost of. 19 
 
 Pertilizers, Special 21 
 
 Figs 164 
 
 Figs, Varieties of 165 
 
 Flowers, Annual 60 
 
 Flowers for Shady Spots 114 
 
 Flowers, Law of Color in 128 
 
 Flower-Bed, Ornamental 35 
 
 Flower-Bed, Scroll-Pattern for 34 
 
 Flower-Beds, Carpet Style of 33 
 
 Flower-Beds, Designs for 31 
 
 Flower-Stands 81 
 
248 
 
 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 Flue, Double 94 
 
 Flue, Heating by . . 93 
 
 Garden, Drainage of 10 
 
 Garden, Preparation of Ground for. 13 
 
 Garden, Protection by Hedges 10 
 
 Garden, Soil and Location 9 
 
 Garden, Vegetable 177 
 
 Garden Walks 14 
 
 Gardens, Designs for 25 
 
 Gardening, Cottage 175 
 
 Gardening, Parlor 77 
 
 Gardening, Window 75 
 
 Garlic 200 
 
 Glasses for Hyacinths 38 
 
 Glazing 145 
 
 Gooseberry 163 
 
 Gooseberry, Varieties of 164 
 
 Graft, Side 54 
 
 Graft, Whip 54 
 
 Grafting 47_53 
 
 Grafting-Wax 55 
 
 Grape Cuttings 142 
 
 Grapes, Hardy 138 
 
 Grapes, Pruning and Training 139 
 
 Grapes, Varieties of 142 
 
 Grapery 90 
 
 Grapery, Cold 144 
 
 Grapery, Hot-House 150 
 
 Grapery, Lean-to 146 
 
 Grasses, Ornamental Ill 
 
 Grass-Seed for Lawn 24 
 
 Grass-Seed, Mixing Oats with 25 
 
 Greenhouse and Cellar Combined . . 101 
 Greenhouse Attached to Dwellings. 87 
 
 Greenhouse, Detached 90 
 
 Greenhouse Plants, List of 79 
 
 " Green Fly," Killing 64 
 
 Guano, How to Use 18 
 
 Guano, Mixing with Earth 18 
 
 Guano, Peruvian 22 
 
 Guano, Quantity to Apply 19 
 
 Hanging-Baskets, Filling 74 
 
 " Hay-Seed " for Lawn 24 
 
 Heating by Double Flues 94 
 
 Heating by Hot Water 95 
 
 Hedges for Protecting Gardens — 10 
 
 Herbaceous Perennials, Hardy 107 
 
 Herbaceous Perennials, Hardy, List 
 
 of 109 
 
 Herbs, Sweet 199 
 
 Horseradish 200 
 
 Hot-Beds 102 
 
 Hot-Beds, Ventilating 103 
 
 Hot-House or Forcing Grapery 150 
 
 Hot-House Plants, List of 80 
 
 House, Approach to 15 
 
 Hyacinths in Glasses 38 
 
 Hyacinths, Planting 36 
 
 Implements, Garden 223 
 
 Digging Fork 224 
 
 Draw Hoe 225 
 
 Excelsior Pump 230 
 
 Excelsior Weeding-Hook 231 
 
 Flower Gatherers 226 
 
 Garden Roller.. 227 
 
 Garden Syringe 229 
 
 Garden Trowel 226 
 
 Grape Scissors 226 
 
 Grass Edging Knife 228 
 
 Hand-Glasses 231 
 
 Hand-Pruning Shears 229 
 
 Hedge Shears 229 
 
 Ladies Garden Tools 231 
 
 Lawn Mowers 227 
 
 Lawn Scythes 226 
 
 Manm-e Fork 224 
 
 Noyes' Hand-Weeder 231 
 
 Pole-Pruning Shears 229 
 
 Prong Hoe 225 
 
 Pruning and Budding Knives226 
 
 Pruning Saw 226 
 
 Push Hoe 225 
 
 Rake 227 
 
 Reel and Line 225 
 
 Shovel 224 
 
 Sickle 228 
 
 Sidney Seed-Sower 230 
 
 Spade 224 
 
 Step-Ladders 231 
 
 Trellises 232 
 
 Watering-Pot 230 
 
 Wheelbarrow ..223 
 
 Wooden Lawn Rake 227 
 
 Insects 115 
 
 Angle Worm 119 
 
 Ants 118 
 
 Brown and White Scale 119 
 
 Green Fly .. ..116 
 
 Ground or Blue Aphis 117 
 
 Mealy Bug 65,118 
 
 Red Spider 118 
 
 Rose Bug 116 
 
 Rose Slug 116 
 
 Thrips 119 
 
 Instructions, General 222 
 
 Jardinieres 8-2 
 
IKDEX. 
 
 249 
 
 Kohlrabi 201 
 
 Lath Screens 126 
 
 Lawn 22 
 
 Lawn, Grass-Seed for 24 
 
 Lawn, Sodding a 23 
 
 Lawns, Planting 30 
 
 Lawn-Mowers 23 
 
 Layering, Propagation by 46 
 
 Leek -. 201 
 
 Lettuce 202 
 
 Lily of the Valley, Forcing 84 
 
 Location of Garden 9 
 
 Manures 16 
 
 Martynia 202 
 
 Mealy Bug 65 
 
 Mealy Bug. Destroying 65 
 
 Melon, Musk 202 
 
 Melon, Water 203 
 
 Mildew 120 
 
 Mulching 122 
 
 Mushrooms 204 
 
 Mustard 204 
 
 Narcissuses, Planting 36 
 
 Nasturtium 207 
 
 Nectarines 169 
 
 Nectarines, Varieties of 169 
 
 Oats with Grass Seed 25 
 
 Okra 207 
 
 Onions 208 
 
 Parsley 208 
 
 Parsnips 209 
 
 Pea 209 
 
 Peach 168 
 
 Peach, Varieties of 168 
 
 Pears 171 
 
 Pears, Varieties of 172 
 
 Pear-Trees, Cordon-Trained 172 
 
 Pepper 211 
 
 Pepper Grass 196 
 
 Pit, Sunken 98 
 
 Pits without Artificial Heat 98 
 
 Plant Protector, Bryants' 197 
 
 Plants for Summer Decoration 69 
 
 Plants for Wardian Cases 83 
 
 Plants, Frozen 121 
 
 Plants, Growing from Cuttings. ... 42 
 
 Plants, Growing from Seeds 39 
 
 Plants, Hot-House 63 
 
 Plants in Eooms 124 
 
 Plants, Potting 60 
 
 Plants, Potting from the Open 
 
 Ground 78 
 
 Plants, Temperature for 80 
 
 Plants, Unhealthy 67 
 
 Plants, Winter Flowering 62 
 
 Planting in Circles 31-33 
 
 Planting Flower-Beds 30 
 
 Plant-Stand, Folding 81 
 
 Plum 166 
 
 Plum, Varieties of 167 
 
 Potato 211 
 
 Potato, Sweet 219 
 
 Pots, Draining 67 
 
 Pots for Plants 61 
 
 Pots for Plants, Size of 66 
 
 Pots, " Plunging " 79 
 
 Potting Plants 60 
 
 Propagation by Layering 46 
 
 Propagating, " Saucer System " of. 44 
 
 Propagating Woody Plants 44 
 
 Propagating by Cuttings 43 
 
 Propagating by Seeds 39 
 
 Pruning for Shape 137 
 
 Pruning Grape-vines 141 
 
 Pruning Hot-House Grapes 148 
 
 Pruning, Spur 140 
 
 Pumpkin 211 
 
 Quince 165 
 
 Quince, Varieties of 165 
 
 Eadish 212 
 
 Raspberry 158 
 
 Raspberry, Varieties of 160 
 
 Raspberries, Black Cap 161 
 
 Raspberries, Black Caps, Varieties 
 
 of 161 
 
 Red Spider . 65 
 
 Re-potting Plants 61 
 
 Rhubarb 212 
 
 Road Drain 16 
 
 Rose Bug 116 
 
 Rose Slug 116 
 
 Roses, Propagating 44 
 
 Salsify 213 
 
 Salsify, Black 214 
 
 Saucers for Pots 81 
 
 Scale, Brown and White 119 
 
 Scorzonera 214 
 
 Screens for Plants 126 
 
 Sea Kale 215 
 
 Seeds, Tropical .59 
 
 Seeds, Annual 112 
 
 Seeds, Propagation of Plants from. 39 
 
 Seedlings, Damping off 41 
 
 Shading 125 
 
 Shallots 215 
 
 Shoots, "Blind" 44 
 
250 
 
 GAEDENIKG FOR PLEASURE. 
 
 Shrubs, Lists of 104 
 
 Smoke-flue . .„ 93 
 
 Soil for Seeds 40 
 
 Soil, Potting 60 
 
 Spinach .216 
 
 Spinach, New Zealand 217 
 
 Spinach, Substitutes for 217 
 
 Squash 218 
 
 Strawberry, Forcing 157 
 
 Strawberry, Growing 153 
 
 Strawberry Runners in Pots 154 
 
 Strawberry, Varieties of 157 
 
 Sweet Potato 219 
 
 Thrips 119 
 
 Tobacco- Water for Plants 64 
 
 Tomato 221 
 
 Tomato Seeds, Starting 59 
 
 Trees, List of Evergreen 106 
 
 Trees, Pruning Fruit 133 
 
 Tulips, Planting 36 
 
 Turnips 221 
 
 Walks, Garden 14 
 
 Wardian Cases 82 
 
 Wash for Glass 127 
 
 Watering Potted Plants 62 
 
 Window Box 67 
 
 Worm, Angle ng 
 
 Monthly Calendar of Operations. . .234 
 
 January 234 
 
 February 235 
 
 March 236 
 
 April 237 
 
 May 238 
 
 June 239 
 
 July..... 240 
 
 August 241 
 
 September 242 
 
 October 242 
 
 November — 244 
 
 December 245 
 
GARDENING FOR PROFIT: 
 
 A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF THE 
 
 MARKET AND FAMILY GARDEN. 
 
 By Peter Henderson, 
 
 This work has had a constant and remarkable sale ever since it was issued, and 
 the later enlarged and revised edition is as well received as was the first. It was 
 the first work on Market Gardening ever published in this country. Its author is 
 well known as a market gardener of many years' successful experience. In this 
 work he has recorded this experience, and given without reservation, the methods 
 necessary to the profitable culture of the 
 
 It is a work for which there was an urgent demand before its issue, and one 
 which commends itself, not only to those who grow vegetables for sale, but to the 
 cultivator of the 
 
 to whom it presents methods quite different from the old ones generally practiced. 
 It is an ORIGINAL and purely AMERICAN work, and not made up as books on gar- 
 dening too often are, by quotations from foreign authors. 
 
 Every thing is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in all its details, 
 fi-om the selection of the soil to preparing the products for market. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Men fitted for the Business of Gardening. 
 
 The Amount of Capital Required, and 
 
 "Working Force per Acre. 
 
 Profits of Market Gardening. 
 
 Location, Situation, and Laying Out. 
 
 Soils, Drainage, and Preparation. 
 
 Manures, Implements. 
 
 Uses and Management of Cold Frames. 
 
 Formation and Management of Hot-beds. 
 
 Forcing Pits or Greenhouses. 
 
 Seeds and Seed Raising. 
 
 How, "When, and WTaere to Sow Seeds. 
 
 Transplanting Insects. 
 
 Packing of Vegetables for Shipping. 
 
 Preservation of Vegetables in "Winter. 
 
 Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation. 
 
 In the last chapter, the most valuable kinds are described, and the culture 
 proper to each is given in detail. 
 
 Sent post-paid, price $r.50. 
 ORANGE JTJDD COMPANY, 245 Broadway, New-York. 
 
FHAOTICAL FLOBIGULTUBE, 
 
 A GUIDE TO THE 
 
 SUCCESSFUL PROPAGATION AND CULTIVATION OF 
 
 Florists' Plants. 
 
 BY PETER HEiNDERSON, BERGEN CITY, N. J. 
 
 Mr. Henderson is known as the largest Commercial Florist in 
 the country. In the present work he gives a full account of Im 
 modes of propagation and cultivation. It is adapted to the wante 
 of the amateur as well as the professional grower. 
 
 The scope of the work may he judged from the following 
 
 TABI.E OF CONTEXTS. 
 
 Aspect and Soil. 
 
 Laying out Lawn and Flower Garden. 
 
 Designs for Flower Gardens. 
 
 Planting of Flower Beds. 
 
 Soils for Potting. 
 
 Temperature and Moisture. 
 
 The Potting of Plants. 
 
 Cold Frames — Winter Protection. 
 
 Construction of Hot-Beds. 
 
 Greennouse Structures. 
 
 Modes of Heating. 
 
 Propagation by Seeds. 
 
 Propagation by Cuttings. 
 
 Propagation of Lilies. 
 
 Culture of the Rose. 
 
 Culture of the Verbena. 
 
 Culture of the Tuberose. 
 
 Diary of Operations for 
 
 Orchid Culture. 
 Holland Bulbs. 
 Cape Bulbs. 
 
 Winter-Flowering Plants 
 Construction of Bouquets. 
 Hanging Baskets. 
 Window Gardening. 
 Rock-Work. 
 Insects. 
 
 Nature's Law of Colors. 
 Packing Plants. 
 Plants by Mail. 
 Profits of Floriculture. 
 Soft-Wooded Plants. 
 Greenhouse Plants. 
 Annuals. 
 
 Hardy Herbaceous Plants, 
 each Day of the Year. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. 
 ORANGE JUDD & COMPANY, 
 
 245 BROADWAY, New-York 
 

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