Fishing Tackle 
 
 By Perry D. Fr 
 
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 Gop)TightN^_ 
 
 COFmiGKT DEPOSIT. 
 
Practice With a Salmon Fly-Rod 
 
FISHING 
 TACKLE 
 
 BY 
 
 PERRY D. FRAZER 
 
 Author of "Amateur Rodmaking," etc. 
 Illustrated 
 
 HANDBOOKS 
 
 Number 36 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 MCMXIV 
 
c,V^ 
 
 ^s>^ 
 
 ^-^^ 
 
 Copyright, 1914, by 
 OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 All rights reserved 
 
 Thanks are due the publishers of Forest and Stream 
 and Field and Stream for permission to incorporate in 
 this volume material which aDpeared in those publications. 
 
 DEC 15 1914 
 
 ©C1.A388823 
 

 CONTENTS 
 
 
 CHAPTER 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. 
 
 Work and Recreation in the 
 
 
 
 Closed Season . . . . 
 
 II 
 
 II. 
 
 Overhauling the Tackle-Box 
 
 • 15 
 
 III. 
 
 Care of Rods 
 
 26 
 
 IV. 
 
 Cleaning and Revarnishing . 
 
 34 
 
 V. 
 
 Reels and Their Care . 
 
 41 
 
 VI. 
 
 Cork Drums for Reels . 
 
 58 
 
 VII. 
 
 Leaders, Gut, and Eyed Flies . 
 
 63 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Rod Cases and Forms 
 
 • 77 
 
 IX. 
 
 General Hints 
 
 80 
 
 X. 
 
 Equipment for Fly- and Bait 
 
 - 
 
 
 Casting 
 
 . 85 
 
 XI. 
 
 Fly-Casting Contests . . 
 
 99 
 
 XII. 
 
 Fly-Fishing Practice . 
 
 104 
 
 XIII. 
 
 Tournament Lines . . . . 
 
 117 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Tournament Fly-Casting . 
 
 132 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Practice with a Salmon Fly-Rod. Frontispiece 
 
 FACING PAGE 
 
 Fly-Fishing for Trout 32 
 
 Rubber and German Silver Single Action 
 
 Reel 41 
 
 Light Click Reel 42 
 
 Narrow Dry-Fly Reel 44 
 
 Milan No. 2 Quadruple Multiplying Reel 45 
 
 Meek No. 2 Reel 46 
 
 Meek No. 3 Reel 47 
 
 Position of Hand and Reel in Casting. . . 54 
 Reels of Same Size Fitted with Cork 
 
 Drums 58 
 
 Forming the Leader Loops 68 
 
 Attaching End of Line to Leader 68 
 
 Method of Tying a Leader Knot 70 
 
 Eyed Fly Box 71 
 
 The Turle Knot 72 
 
 Hooks 74 
 
 Case for Rods 78 
 
 The Short Bait-Casting Rod Is Handy on 
 
 Pack Trips 80 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Casting Platforms 88 
 
 Rod Rack 90 
 
 Floats for Marking Line 93 
 
 Accuracy Bait-Casting Target 95 
 
 Dry-Fly Accuracy Casting — Washington 
 
 Park, Chicago 96 
 
 Forward Cast 108 
 
 Back Cast 109 
 
 Position at Finish of the Forward Cast. . 112 
 
 Splicing 122 
 
 Reel for Tournament Fly Lines 125 
 
 Bait-Casting for Bass in Florida 128 
 
FISHING TACKLE 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 WORK AND RECREATION IN THE CLOSED SEASON 
 
 yi T one of the fly- and bait-casting tourna- 
 r\ ments of the National Association of 
 Scientific Angling Clubs, a visitor who 
 had been an angler all his life, but who de- 
 sired to become proficient in casting with the 
 fly-rod, asked if, in purchasing a tournament 
 fly-rod, it would be advisable for him to begin 
 with a rod of say nine feet and eight ounces, 
 practice with it awhile, then purchase one of ten 
 or eleven feet, and so on, his idea being that 
 he would be sure to get the wrong sort of a rod 
 at first, but would ultimately learn what was 
 best. There are thousands of anglers who 
 view the purchase of fishing tackle in this light 
 I am well aware. To them it seems that there 
 Is something mysterious connected with rods 
 and tackle and that they can only master de- 
 tails after wasting some money. 
 
 n 
 
12 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 To a great many anglers, too, the Idea of 
 repairing their own rods and tackle seems im- 
 possible, while as for making little odds and 
 ends of constant usefulness, this Is believed to 
 be a task to be looked at only In the light of 
 certain failure. 
 
 In my little workshop I have a few simple 
 tools with which I have made a number of 
 articles, which If not handsome, have at least 
 given me the greatest satisfaction when they 
 proved to be practical. There are very few 
 anglers who cannot do even better work. Dur- 
 ing the long evenings of autumn and winter a 
 great deal of amusement may be obtained from 
 overhauling the fishing rods and tackle, making 
 little devices for use the next season, and giv- 
 ing the weary brain change and rest from the 
 exactions of one's daily toil. 
 
 Just to show how the angler may experiment 
 along the lines that fascinate him, I will mention 
 a new reel which, while from one of the best 
 makers, did not act just as I thought It should. 
 All of the parts were beautifully made and fit- 
 ted, but there was tremendous vibration during 
 a cast, and in my own way I reasoned that the 
 handle was at fault. Not wishing to mar this, 
 I removed it, and searching through a box of 
 junk, found a scrap of aluminum about half as 
 
WOEK AND RECREATION IB 
 
 thick as the German silver handle of the reel. 
 Laying the handle on this scrap, I traced its 
 outline with a scratch-awl, but made it shorter 
 than the factory handle, then, with a tiny saw 
 cut just outside the lines, filed the edges 
 smooth, bored a hole in the center and 
 squared this to fit the handle-post. 
 
 Holes were drilled, in one end for a finger 
 knob and in the other for a counter-weight. The 
 knob was made from a piece of brass rod. 
 The head of a round-head screw was cut off and 
 filed until it would just balance the knob when 
 the new handle was laid across one edge of a 
 three-square file. Both the screw-head and the 
 knob were riveted in place, the handle made fast 
 on the post, and timing the reel with my watch, 
 I found that it would spin twenty-six seconds 
 without appreciable vibration, whereas with 
 the original handle it would spin only seventeen 
 seconds, and the vibration was disagreeable in 
 casting. 
 
 This work took more than an hour, but while 
 the reel was improved for my use, no harm had 
 been done the original handle. The manufac- 
 turer probably had a certain number of handles 
 made, and used this one, which answered the 
 purpose In a general way, but was not of the 
 best weight or length for that particular reel. 
 
14 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 A little careful investigation was worth while 
 In this Instance. Any angler possessing ordinary 
 skill can make a better handle than mine — and 
 this Is true of nearly all repairs and improve- 
 ments in rods and tackle. Besides, there Is a 
 satisfaction In overcoming a difficulty yourself 
 instead of leaving It to someone else. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 OVERHAULING THE TACKLE-BOX 
 
 WITH the passing of the winter anglers 
 begin to make plans for the next fish- 
 ing season. And although the nights 
 gradually grow shorter, It is not until half of 
 the winter has passed, and the nights are cold, 
 and it is so pleasant to stay indoors and tinker 
 until bedtime, that one feels like settling down 
 to doing something with his fishing outfit. 
 
 If the veteran anglers find in the chapters 
 that follow any matter that is ancient history 
 to them, they will, I know, be charitable enough 
 to admit that beginners search diligently through 
 books and papers for information of this sort, 
 and they deserve all the consideration and en- 
 couragement that we can give them. Even 
 some of the veterans, It Is hoped, may find here 
 a wrinkle or two worth remembering; for In all 
 walks of life we find persons who say they are 
 " not handy " at doing this or that thing, and 
 thereby lose a lot of pleasure. For It Is real 
 pleasure, and a source of lasting satisfaction 
 15 
 
16 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 as well, to any angler to repair his own tackle, 
 and all through the active season he can make 
 mental notes of the changes which his experience 
 tells him he should make " next winter." 
 
 The alterations made are those decided on 
 after long consideration, and half the pleasure 
 of accomplishment would be lost were someone 
 else allowed to do the tinkering planned for 
 winter pastime. The rodmaker can hardly do 
 these small jobs, for if minor changes must be 
 made by a professional, the chances are that 
 they will not be made at all, new articles being 
 purchased instead. One cannot as well explain 
 how he wants a thing done as to tinker it out 
 himself. And the tackle dealer who keeps re- 
 pair materials and fittings reaps his profit on 
 these articles in the dull season. 
 
 The first thing to do is to lay out the entire 
 fishing kit and make a detailed survey and in- 
 ventory. If a new rod is decided on, write 
 down Its specifications, while your ideas are 
 fresh, at the end of the season's fishing. Go 
 over the old rods and recall their faults, so that 
 the new one may be different. Then give the 
 order for the new one to your rodmaker, so 
 that he may have abundant time to fill the order 
 before his busy season comes on. You will be 
 much better satisfied with the rod he makes for 
 
OVERHAULING 17 
 
 you in the winter than if you wait until March 
 before ordering. 
 
 If fly lines have been left on the reels, take 
 them off and roll them in coils five inches or 
 more in diameter. If left on the reel a water- 
 proof silk line will come off in small spirals 
 difficult to straighten, and it is a good idea to 
 rub it with a piece of flannel moistened with 
 crude petroleum, then rub this all off, coil loosely 
 and tie coil in three or four places with thread. 
 Hang it up in your tackle cabinet, and now and 
 then during the winter give it a gentle " shaking 
 up," to be sure that it has not gone sticky from 
 too much artificial heat. 
 
 A cool closet is the best place for fine lines. 
 It Is a good plan to keep a dressed line on one 
 of the large tournament reels, described in Fig. 
 30. I make it a practice to transfer my line 
 from my fishing reel to a tournament reel as 
 soon as I return from a fishing excursion, and by 
 so doing never have any trouble with the line. 
 
 About all that can be done to preserve the 
 braided silk bait-casting line is to keep it dry. 
 The angler has a choice of three kinds: un- 
 dressed silk; waterproofed silk; and soft 
 dressed. Nearly all treated lines are more dif- 
 ficult to use on a bait reel than those that are 
 not treated, as such lines are more or less wiry, 
 
18 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 and sometimes spring off the reel In spirals, 
 or cause backlashes. The soft dressed line, be- 
 ing braided softer and finished by hand rubbing, 
 gives less trouble than other lines. Among the 
 better class of undressed lines, the favorites 
 seem to be those that are braided very hard 
 over a heavy, twisted silk core, the braid being 
 so tight as to render the line practically water- 
 proof, or at least against soaking. These lines 
 are also very smooth and keep their shape, 
 which a soft line will not do. 
 
 Paraffin dissolved In turpentine and applied 
 quite warm by soaking the line in it will Im- 
 prove undressed silk lines without rendering 
 them wiry, but this, like a paraffin-benzine dress- 
 ing, will wear off In time. The gossamer-like 
 casting lines have so little body that it Is diffi- 
 cult to fill them with anything that will not 
 quickly wear off. 
 
 In Mrs. Marbury's *' Favorite Flies " a cor- 
 respondent makes the claim that small casting 
 lines can be Improved by soaking them in a 
 warmed solution of paraffin and benzine. He 
 calls this semi-waterproofing and claims that a 
 line so treated will last longer and cast further 
 than any other. The line Is not taken out of 
 the solution until the latter cools, in order that 
 all the wax possible may be retained in the line. 
 
OVERHAULING 19 
 
 Dry for a day, then rub with a cloth and chamois 
 skin. I prefer turpentine to benzine, as the 
 former renders the line soft and waxy. The tents 
 which I have treated In this way for many years 
 seem never to rot, are soft and light, and have 
 never leaked. 
 
 If you have never used a line dryer, begin 
 now. There are several good and Inexpensive 
 ones on the market. No bait line can be de- 
 pended on If left on the reel over night without 
 drying. A silk line costs from one to four 
 dollars for one hundred yards, and no angler 
 can afford to let a good line rot for want of 
 drying. Lines are frequently Injured by miner- 
 als In the water they are used In, and If they 
 are dried after use, this may partially offset the 
 harm. If you have no dryer, pull the line off 
 the reel and Into your hat, or In a pan. If you 
 are In camp, putting the receptacle In some place 
 where It will not be turned over. In the morn- 
 ing wind the line back on the reel. Never dry 
 a silk line in the sun. A dryer Is best, for the 
 line can be left on one over night, so that the 
 air will have abundant time to dry the line 
 thoroughly. 
 
 In what shape do you keep your loose hooks, 
 sinkers, swivels, trolling and casting spoons, 
 artificial minnows, etc.? The neat little boxes 
 
20 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 these come In are all right, but if one has many, 
 they are bulky enough to fill a suit-case instead 
 of a tackle-box. It is a good plan to put in the 
 tackle-box the reels, lines, etc., customarily taken 
 on fishing trips, then fill in the remaining space 
 with the sliding-top boxes the baits come in. 
 Put away all boxes not needed, and put several 
 baits in each box retained. Each variety in a 
 separate box will simplify matters. The small 
 spinners and casting spoons go nicely Into little 
 envelopes to be tucked in corners of the tackle- 
 box, loose hooks In other envelopes, snelled 
 hooks in a box by themselves. A small tin 
 tobacco-box Is handy for odds and ends like 
 sinkers, swivels, small spool of silk, wax, and 
 cement. 
 
 The trade supplies celluloid and other cases 
 of various shapes for artificial lures, and these 
 are cheap. Lures kept in them are free from 
 rust, and better still, from the tangling that Is 
 Inevitable when many devices with hooks at- 
 tached are kept together. Besides, one may 
 see what Is In each envelope without opening 
 it — an Immense advantage when he Is In a hur- 
 ry to change lures. 
 
 A file, a small bottle of the best reel oil, or 
 better, one of the metal oil tubes; two pairs of 
 small pliers, one with flat, the other with round 
 
OVERHAULING 21 
 
 jaws; and a screw-driver (for reels) should be 
 In every tackle-box. With this equipment you 
 have a complete repair kit, and can change baits 
 to suit conditions as you find them, ashore or 
 afloat. 
 
 An assortment of eyed flies is handy, too, for 
 the bait-caster. When bass are taking feathered 
 spinners or spoons, changing flies Is often advis- 
 able, and this is especially true when single- 
 hook lures are used Instead of the now too com- 
 mon trebles. Some anglers remove all treble 
 hooks from artificial lures, replacing them with 
 single bare or feathered hooks, these to be 
 changed to suit conditions. If this practice 
 Is followed. It is handy to keep a few lures un- 
 mounted, attaching a bare hook and a minnow, 
 or an eyed bass fly, as required. In this con- 
 nection it is worth noting that few of our hooks 
 of 0/0 size and thereabout have eyes large 
 enough to go on the wires with which the ma- 
 jority of our spoons and wooden minnows are 
 fitted, necessitating the use of steel split-rings 
 to attach eyed hooks to the lures in a proper 
 manner. 
 
 It is a moot question whether treble and 
 groups of treble hooks are worth the trouble 
 and profanity they cause. Some anglers have 
 decided views on this subject, declaring that they 
 
22 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 can take as many bass on single as on treble 
 hooks. Certainly the single hook is the more 
 sportsmanlike of the two, and I believe the 
 custom of using three to five trebles will give 
 place to the single hook, or at most three singles. 
 
 While the lure which carries a single tail- 
 hook is the neatest and least troublesome in 
 weedy waters, for bass it is not always a suc- 
 cessful one, because of their habit of striking 
 a bait amidships. Two side hooks and one tail- 
 hook, however, are enough for all practical 
 purposes. It is claimed that pike were respon- 
 sible for the first trebles and it is also said the 
 devil invented the device. Be that as it may, 
 trebles are put on nearly all lures because such 
 articles are made for jobbers. The retailers 
 are not particular. They order standard baits, 
 and these are equipped with one, three, or five 
 trebles. 
 
 No doubt all manufacturers would be glad 
 to equip their baits with single hooks. Their 
 goods would make a better appearance in 
 sample cases and tackle stores, and ^everybody, 
 from the maker to the angler, could get along 
 without swearing. Trying to put a wooden 
 minnow equipped with treble hooks in a box is 
 like attempting to put a healthy tomcat on his 
 back. When you think you have succeded, you 
 
OVERHAULING 23 
 
 haven't and afterward you wish you hadn't 
 tried. 
 
 Some manufacturers arrange their lures so 
 that the hooks may be changed, just as a fly- 
 fisher changes flies, to suit prevaihng con- 
 ditions. Each spoon or spinner is part of a set, 
 the other members in which consist of four or 
 six eyed flies of well-known merit. I may be 
 prejudiced in their favor, but I have found them 
 valuable additions to my tackle because they 
 are killers, and the flies are well made. Every 
 dealer stocks them. 
 
 Many wooden minnows, spoons, and spin- 
 ners are equipped with feathered treble hooks, 
 the feathers on which are red and white. If 
 bass do not take a fancy to them, the angler 
 often thinks there is something wrong with the 
 lure's size and color when the fault lies in the 
 rooster-feathered hooks. A trial of a few lures 
 fitted with royal coachman, Parmacheene Belle, 
 gray drake, Seth Green, grizzly king, buck- 
 tail, silver doctor, or some of the hackles, on 
 single hooks, may alter one's views and give 
 his single-hook lure a wider range of useful- 
 ness. 
 
 If one fly-fishes often, of course his outfit 
 will be much smaller than if he fishes with both 
 fly- and bait-rods, but if he goes far afield on 
 
24 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 vacations, he will hardly feel safe without a 
 modest tackle box or book, with a few compact 
 articles tucked away In It. This outfit is a good 
 deal like the emergency medicine case — it may 
 not seem to be worth taking along, but when 
 It Is needed, It Is needed badly. 
 
 It is true that the less one Investigates the 
 mechanism of his reel, the better service will It 
 render; but this is not a hard and fast rule. If 
 you do take your reel apart, however, use a 
 screw-driver adapted to that particular purpose. 
 The best type that I have ever seen is obtainable 
 from tackle dealers generally and stores that 
 make a specialty of fine tools. The blade should 
 fit the screw-head slots perfectly, as otherwise 
 they will be marred and will cut the delicate 
 line. The kind referred to has a milled stem 
 fitted with a swivel top that fits in the palm of 
 the hand, so that the driver is held steadily while 
 the fingers alone turn the blade. Such a tool 
 costs a few cents more than the common kind, 
 but is invaluable. 
 
 Keep a very fine file In the tackle-box. The 
 kind known in the trade as a needle file is best 
 for the purpose. The stem is round, the blade 
 flat on one side and slightly rounded on the 
 other, tapering to a fine point. It is somewhat 
 delicate, but nicely tempered, and will not break 
 
OVERHAULING 25 
 
 If handled with ordinary care. With one of 
 these files the barbs of hooks may be sharp- 
 ened when they are dull, and so keen is the 
 edge of the file that you can cut through brass 
 and copper wire as with a delicate saw, and 
 small repairs call for a file of this sort. 
 
 Rough places on guides, reel-seats or ferrules 
 may be smoothed without scratching the pol- 
 ished surface, though It is well to finish up with 
 a tiny piece of the finest grade of crocus cloth, 
 to Insure a good polish. Powdered tripoll, used 
 by machinists for buffing, etc., is also excellent 
 for polishing. Oil a piece of chamois skin, then 
 coat it lightly with tripoll, and you have a good 
 hand polisher for rusted hooks, tarnished troll- 
 ing spoons, rod fittings, and reels. The tripoll 
 will polish without scratching, but for obstinate 
 cases flour emery in oil may be used. Dry em- 
 ery cuts too rapidly for any polished surface. 
 Powdered chalk is another good medium for 
 poHshIng metal. Use crude petroleum with it, 
 and also with tripoll. Crude oil cleans and Is a 
 very handy thing to have in the tackle-box. Keep 
 It In one of the little metal tubes previously 
 referred to. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 CARE OF THE RODS 
 
 WHEN you come to the fishing rods, It 
 Is a good plan to take them all out 
 of the tackle cabinet or place where 
 they are kept, joint them up and examine them 
 In a superficial way to see if any ferrules are 
 loose, and If there are any kinks In tops that may 
 be straightened out before the angling season 
 comes around. Too often anglers get into 
 the habit of standing rod-joints in a corner In a 
 closet. If they are protected by wood forms, 
 leather cases, aluminum or bamboo tubes, there 
 Is little danger that tips and joints will go 
 crooked, but if left In cloth cases, tied with 
 tapes, they may need straightening. It is handy 
 to keep a rod in a cloth case, but often one tape 
 Is tied more securely than others, and the swell 
 of the hand-grasp will help to curve the tips 
 If the rod is left In a dry place for several weeks. 
 The beauty of a fine trout rod may be marred 
 In a short time merely by leaning the joints 
 against a wall. 
 
 A better plan Is to suspend all the parts from 
 26 
 
CARE OF THE RODS 27 
 
 brass brads driven In the walls of the tackle 
 cabinet. The top-rings of the tips will lit these 
 brads, as also the top guides of the joints. Better 
 still, suspend the jointed rod from a hook placed 
 In the ceiling of a cool closet. This applies to 
 split bamboo as well as wood rods, for while 
 the latter are more easily put out of shape dur- 
 ing the frequent changes In temperature in win- 
 ter, split bamboo may also lose its shape in time 
 under the conditions named, particularly the 
 slender tips and middle joints. 
 
 If a wood rod becomes hopelessly set through 
 long use and heavy strain, suspend it from a 
 brad driven Into the picture moulding in a ,cool 
 room, where It will not touch anything, and 
 leave a heavy reel on It, the latter, of course, 
 covered with Its chamois bag to keep out dust. 
 After a few damp days you will notice the 
 change, and before the fishing season opens the 
 rod should be free from set. But If not, hang 
 a weight on the butt In lieu of the reel. Rods 
 used In tournament casting often become set 
 In the direction of the greatest strain, and this 
 Is difficult to correct, but the treatment referred 
 to above will help. Applying heat direct, bend- 
 ing In the opposite direction, and leaving the tip 
 under weights are all too severe for a favorite 
 rod, but It should be straightened If this can 
 
28 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 be done without injuring it, for one cannot cast 
 accurately with a crooked rod. 
 
 Another good plan is to fasten the crooked 
 tip or joint to a steel rod or to the edge of a 
 board that is straight. Wind over all with 
 tape or soft cord, being certain that the tip lies 
 true with the axis of the rod. 
 
 If you happen to know a metal worker who 
 has an enamelling oven, ask permission to 
 " warm over " your rod in it. A temperature of 
 150 degrees F. will not harm it if the parts are 
 laid flat on one of the shelves or trays. Straight- 
 en the joints as soon as they are taken out of the 
 oven, then suspend them until they are cold. 
 An old split bamboo rod that has lost Its 
 " ginger " may be improved by this treatment, 
 as the glue will be warmed slightly, and will 
 set again as the cane cools. The temperature 
 mentioned above will not affect the varnish 
 on the rod, but it is not well to go above that 
 point. 
 
 With the rods all jointed up and in shape to 
 be examined and tried for faults, decide on 
 what changes or repairs, if any, should be 
 made by their maker, and do not delay plac- 
 ing such rods in his hand at once, if they re- 
 quire his expert skill. Rodmakers are human 
 and therefore likely to be less thorough when 
 
CARE OF THE RODS 29 
 
 rushed half to death with hurry orders the 
 week before the fishing season opens than if 
 permitted to take their own time on repair 
 work. You have a right to expect them to do 
 their best work on your rods, but too often 
 you give them very short notice. Be fair to 
 them. 
 
 When you have laid aside the rod or rods 
 requiring the repairs that may be made at home, 
 take up one that merely needs cleaning and 
 brightening up. The cork grasp, if soiled and 
 discolored, may be improved by rubbing with 
 a moist cloth and soap. Generally this will 
 suffice to remove the combined oil and dust and 
 leave the cork bright and fresh, but if not, try 
 alcohol on a cloth, turpentine, or even benzine, 
 rubbing the grasp lengthwise to prevent the 
 liquid from softening the glue. After the grasp 
 has dried, roll a piece of tissue paper around 
 it and bind with a couple of elastics, to keep it 
 clean while you work on other parts of the 
 joint. If the grasp be very badly soiled, rub 
 it slightly with an old, worn piece of the finest 
 grade of sandpaper. 
 
 Now look over the ferrules. If one is loose, 
 remove it. If It Is fastened with a pin, and 
 this does not go clear th'rough, tapping around 
 the pin with the wood handle of a screw-driver 
 
30 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 may raise It enough so that It may be drawn 
 out with pliers; otherwise, tap lightly with a 
 pointed instrument until the pin is driven be- 
 low the surface of the ferrule, which may then 
 be removed and the pin drawn from the wood. 
 The best ferrules are pinned through from 
 side to side, and the pins are easily pushed 
 down far enough to be removed with pliers. 
 
 Scrape the old cement off the wood, and heat- 
 ing your stick of cement, preferably over the 
 flame of an alcohol lamp, at the same time 
 warming the surface to be coated, spread the 
 cement over the wood and smooth it around 
 with a toothpick. Warm the ferrule just enough 
 to soften the cement that is in it and push it 
 home. It is not difficult to fit it exactly as it 
 was before if a needle be used to locate the hole 
 from which you drew the pin and of course this 
 is desirable, since the making of a new hole 
 may serve to weaken the wood at that point. 
 If any cement exudes below the ferrule, scrape 
 this off with a toothpick, but wait until it is 
 cold before rubbing off all traces of cement with 
 crude oil on a bit of silk or linen. If the ferrule 
 fits the wood too loosely, wind the latter with 
 very thin silk before coating with cement. 
 
 Agate guides that are loose In their mount- 
 ings may be tightened with a tiny drop of 
 
CARE OF THE RODS 31 
 
 cement applied while hot on a toothpick. Do 
 not heat the agate, as it may crack. 
 
 Every rodmaker has a cement of his own 
 and neither sells it nor discloses its ingredients, 
 but when all is said on this subject, there are 
 few cements that will hold longer than shellac. 
 Take a jar of orange shellac that is old and 
 sticky. Moisten with a few drops of alcohol 
 until it resembles molasses candy. Warm, ap- 
 ply, and be happy. 
 
 Take up a rod that has frayed or loose 
 windings here and there; remove all of these 
 and prepare to renew them. Tackle dealers 
 will supply you with winding silk. The colors 
 most used are pale red, black, grass green, and 
 jasper (mottled black and white or brown and 
 white). With the exception of black, all silk 
 darkens when varnished, hence no matter what 
 color you select, see that it is one or two shades 
 lighter than your first choice. Avoid lilac, pur- 
 ple and other delicate shades, as they will fade 
 on being exposed to the sunlight. Orange is 
 a good color, and if you desire less of the so- 
 called barber-pole effect, select cream-colored 
 silk, which is practically transparent under the 
 varnish. Lemon is another shade that gives a 
 nice effect under varnish. 
 
 If you must depend on dry goods shops for 
 
32 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 silk, A is usually the smallest size obtainable, 
 and it will answer, although it Is too coarse for 
 nice winding. The larger the rod, the coarser 
 may the silk be, and for salmon and salt water 
 rods I have used button-hole silk for guide and 
 ferrule windings. For trout rods 00 is the best 
 size for all windings. 
 
 When all of the frayed windings have been 
 renewed, coat the silk, and It alone, with the 
 best grain alcohol shellac, and while this is 
 fresh, pass It over a thin flame, turning the rod 
 rapidly meanwhile. This will cement the wind- 
 ings and the shellac, and make a neat finish. 
 Give the windings a second coat of shellac, and 
 when this Is dry, cover the windings with coach 
 varnish, using a fine-pointed brush and letting 
 the varnish extend a trifle beyond the winding 
 on either side. 
 
 If guides must be rewound, fasten them in 
 place temporarily with waxed thread and be- 
 gin to wind with silk toward the guide, not 
 away from it. In this way the end of guide- 
 seat is covered first and the windings will be 
 even, whereas if you begin next the guide and 
 wind away from it, the silk will slip off the 
 end of the guide-seat. Where the guide Is 
 to be wound with two or more colors, as red 
 with green edgings, the two outside edgings 
 
CARE OF THE RODS 33 
 
 should be put on first, and the original silk- 
 end left without cutting, In order that the wider 
 center winding will grip it and hold all to- 
 gether. Both outer edgings being finished, wind 
 the two wide bands, then the two inner edgings. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 CLEANING AND VARNISHING 
 
 IF the butt-cap and reel-seat of your rod 
 are tarnished, rub them with tripoli on a 
 cloth moistened with crude oil, then polish 
 all of the ferrules In the same manner until 
 they are free from the season's stains. Hold 
 the joint under your left arm, with the ferrule 
 resting on the edge of a table, and polish with a 
 narrow strip of cloth In the same way that a 
 bootblack " shines " your boots. This will leave 
 the metal a dead white that will not glisten 
 In the sun. If there Is any varnish on the fer- 
 rules, It may be removed with crude oil, but In 
 rubbing be careful not to damage the wind- 
 ings. 
 
 Holding the rod as described above, go over 
 It from end to end with just a trace of crude 
 oil on a cloth. Rubbing lengthwise will tend to 
 work the oil Into the windings and darken them, 
 whereas all that Is needed Is to clean and polish 
 the varnish. Some anglers prefer sweet oil 
 for this purpose, but lubricating oils are too 
 penetrating. 
 
 34 
 
CLEANING AND VARNISHING 35 
 
 Follow with chamois skin or an old silk 
 handkerchief, rubbing briskly, but very lightly, 
 working backward and forward rapidly to 
 avoid heating the varnish through friction. 
 
 When the rod is perfectly dry examine 
 it in several places with a microscope. If the 
 varnish is cracked, as it may be after several 
 seasons' use, covering this old varnish with a 
 fresh coat is scarcely to be recommended, when 
 the obvious need is to scrape the rod, rewind, 
 and varnish afresh; but if the varnish is in fair 
 condition, give the rod a new coating. For this 
 purpose buy a three-quarter-inch oval camel- 
 hair brush and a small can of extra light coach 
 varnish. The dealers supply this or equally 
 good rod varnish in small bottles. Do not 
 let anyone persuade you to use shellac. 
 
 Before varnishing, leave the rod in a warm 
 room until it is in condition to insure the var- 
 nish taking hold, and at the same time put the 
 varnish bottle In a pan of warm water. Coach 
 varnish is quite thick and somewhat gummy. 
 Warming it softens the gum it carries, and 
 makes It flow and set nicely, insuring a more 
 brilliant coating than Is possible If it Is used 
 cold. Cold varnish may contain minute lumps 
 of gum that amalgamate with the oil when 
 warmed; therefore, use warm varnish. 
 
36 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Coat the winding next to the ferrule first, 
 earefuly avoiding the metal. Lay the varnish 
 lightly around each winding, then flow it a 
 trifle more thickly lengthwise of the joint, turn- 
 ing the latter slowly to insure an even coating. 
 This varnish is laid on quite thickly, but not 
 so much so that it will crawl or set in patches. 
 If in doubt, go over the work without any fresh 
 varnish in the brush, touching the varnish very 
 lightly, to smooth it evenly throughout. 
 
 Stand each joint in a warm place out of the 
 wind or any draft that may carry dust. When 
 the rod is finished, joint it up and suspend from 
 a hook in a place where no person or object 
 will touch it. It will dry in a few hours, but 
 should not be handled for at least three days. 
 Drying in the sun, while not always harmful, 
 is likely to expose the varnish to dust. Choose 
 a dry day for the work. 
 
 Clean the varnish brush carefully with soap 
 and hot water, and when it is dry, put it away 
 in a place free from dust. Keep the varnish 
 bottle tightly corked, and expose the varnish 
 as little as possible to the air. 
 
 There Is nothing more discouraging to the 
 angler than a failure in varnishing a rod. And 
 varnishing is a delicate operation. One may 
 finish the rod with the utmost care, polishing the 
 
CLEANING AND VARNISHING 37 
 
 wood until it glistens, winding neatly, and then, 
 when it is almost ready for use, have bad luck 
 in varnishing, and feel like throwing the rod 
 away, for apparently it is ruined, and there is 
 nothing left to do but remove windings and 
 guides, scrape it down and begin the work all 
 over again. 
 
 This, however. Is a mistake, for the fault 
 may be remedied if one is careful. Take a 
 bethabara rod, for example. This wood is 
 more or less oily. You may finish a rod with 
 the greatest care, wetting the wood to raise 
 the grain, then cutting down all roughness, 
 polishing with mild abrasives, then with fine 
 bethabara shavings, and finally with tissue pa- 
 per, until the wood glistens like polished brass; 
 but in the winding the natural oil from your 
 hands will coat the wood evenly, and it may not 
 occur to you that the rod is in bad shape for 
 varnishing. 
 
 At best bethabara will not absorb much var- 
 nish; therefore, it Is essential that the varnish 
 shall dry rapidly and not crawl, or solidify in 
 uneven patches, leaving other spots dry. If 
 you varnish the rod on a warm day, turning 
 It round now and then, so that it will dry evenly 
 In the open air. It will be satisfactory; but if 
 circumstances force you to varnish it hurriedly 
 
38 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 and then hang It up close to a wall, it may dry 
 on one side, while on the other, nearest the wall, 
 the varnish may crawl. This may happen if the 
 temperature Is low or the air damp. 
 
 When the windings are finished and given 
 two coats of shellac, to preserve the color of 
 the silk, the exposed wood may be rubbed with 
 a strip of linen or silk until most of the oil 
 from your hands has been removed. After this, 
 do not touch the wood with your hands until 
 after the rod has been varnished. Rub the 
 wood lightly, else friction will damage the wind- 
 ings. 
 
 Possibly you may forget how old your var- 
 nish is, or neglect to have the rod and the var- 
 nish warm, or the day selected may turn cold, 
 with the result that the varnish may dry uneven- 
 ly, remain tacky, or even crawl In places. Old 
 coach varnish may be thinned by adding a little 
 turpentine, then let It stand for a while before 
 using. It Is better, however, to buy fresh var- 
 nish, particularly as a small bottle or can will 
 furnish enough for several rods. Always ap- 
 ply varnish while warm. 
 
 If the varnish does crawl, or fail to dry after 
 several days' time, so that all of your work 
 seems to have been wasted, take a narrow 
 strip of canvas, which has a rough surface and 
 
CLEANING AND VARNISHING 39 
 
 will not shed much lint while you are rubbing, 
 and wetting It slightly with crude oil, work the 
 strip between the windings as previously des- 
 cribed, but never lengthwise of the joint. Very 
 little pressure Is needed, for your object will be 
 to warm the sticky varnish through friction, 
 spread It evenly and bind It, while removing 
 a little from the surface. Passing the palm 
 of the hand over the joint occasionally will en- 
 able you to tell when the work Is finished, which 
 will be when the tacky surface gives way to one 
 that Is smooth and fairly hard. Any doubt 
 win be dispelled If you will rub the joint length- 
 wise very lightly with a piece of linen or silk. 
 If this sticks in places, those spots must be 
 polished. 
 
 Let the rod stand for a day, then pass the 
 dry silk strip over it lightly, and If all parts 
 are hard, polish with this strip. The high 
 gloss will be gone, but if a thin coat of varnish 
 is put on in a few days, this should bring out 
 all of the beauty of the grain and the wind- 
 ings, and your rod, which seemed to be ruined, 
 will be little the worse for this heroic — and 
 perhaps unworkmanlike — treatment. We are 
 not all experts, and few of those who love to 
 "tinker at rod building" have just the right 
 sort of workshops and tools, but a little horse 
 
40 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 sense has saved more valuable property than a 
 fishing rod. 
 
 Now and then the claim is made that vase- 
 line is a preservative that should be used on 
 the rod before it is put away for the winter. 
 Vaseline would very likely keep out damp- 
 ness, but it is very penetrating, and if there are 
 cracks in the varnish, the vaseline would work 
 into them, and discolor windings as well. It 
 seems to me that crude petroleum is a better 
 preservative, but if it is used it should be 
 completely removed before varnishing. Ver- 
 digris will form on brass coated with vase- 
 line, and the same thing applies, though in a 
 lesser degree, to German silver, hence this seems 
 to me to be another argument against the use 
 or vaseline on rods. 
 
 Lard oil should be better. I have never used 
 it to prevent fishing rod ferrules from sticking, 
 but have found it peculiarly effective when ap- 
 plied to the friction joints of canoe paddles and 
 tent poles, and see no reason why it should 
 not work well on fishing rods. It is a clean 
 oil, and a very little of it goes a long way. 
 Common lubricating oil, and vaseline as well, 
 pick up grit, and the combination is likely to 
 injure ferrules. All of the lubricating that a 
 good ferrule needs is to wipe it clean, then rub 
 it over you^ hair if it fits too snugly. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 REELS AND THEIR CARE 
 
 GENERALLY speaking, there are but 
 two kinds of reel used In fresh water 
 fishing: (i) the single-action reel for 
 fly-rods, and (2) the multiplying reel for bait 
 
 (Courtesy of Wm. Mills & Son.) 
 Fig. I. — Rubber and German Silver Single Action Reel. 
 
 41 
 
42 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 (Courtesy of Wm. Mills & Son.) 
 Fig. 2. — Light Click Reel. 
 
 In fishing with the fly-rod the reel Is em- 
 ployed mainly In playing a fish and In shorten- 
 ing line. In casting the fly or lure the actual 
 length of line is controlled by the left hand. 
 With It the line Is pulled off the reel or stripped 
 in, to be held In one or more coils, and to be 
 wound up on the reel when It Is necessary to 
 shorten line. But when a fish is hooked the 
 reel comes Into play when there is too much 
 line out to control It by rod manipulation alone. 
 
 This being true, there are only a few things 
 to consider In selecting a reel. It should bal- 
 ance nicely on the rod and be no larger than is 
 necessary to hold the line. Weight Is a mat- 
 ter each angler must decide for himself. One 
 prefers a fairly heavy reel, claiming that It 
 balances the rod; another selects a light reel 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 43 
 
 because it does not place too much weight be- 
 low the hand. 
 
 A single-action reel need not be expensive. 
 The parts should be well made and nicely fit- 
 ted, the click one that will not get out of order 
 quickly, and with a good strong spring. The 
 click must be just strong enough to prevent the 
 spool from turning when casts of ordinary 
 length are made without holding the line 
 with either hand. The reels illustrated in Figs. 
 I and 2 are typical of the moderate priced 
 reels used by trout fishermen. Three inches is 
 the diameter of most click reels on which thirty 
 yards of double tapered E line are used, and 
 they will carry the same length of D line if it 
 be wound on evenly. There is no need of a 
 drag on a fly reel. 
 
 The EngHsh reels are nearly all heavy affairs, 
 but they are beautifully made and compact. 
 Nearly all are so made that by removing one 
 screw the spool may be taken out, and instead 
 of the thin axle — which ruins any line left on it 
 for any length of time, — there is a drum of 
 good size. The dry-fly reel shown in Fig. 3 
 IS of this type. It is narrow but of goodly dia- 
 meter, and light, as the material is an aluminum 
 alloy — aluminum alone being too soft for reels. 
 
 Whatever reel is employed, do not leave a 
 
44 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 (Courtesy of Wm. Mills & Son.) 
 Fig. 3. — Narrow Dry-Fly Reel. 
 
 good line on it, but wind the line on one of the 
 large " reels " used by tournament casters, Il- 
 lustrated In Fig. 30; or wind it on to a line 
 dryer. 
 
 Salmon reels are merely larger editions of 
 trout reels, but as they are roughly handled at 
 times, strength Is necessary, and for this pur- 
 pose a high-grade reel Is the best. 
 
 The balt-casting reel is a machine in miniature 
 and Is a wonderful one at that. It must be 
 light and small, run almiost as freely as a top, 
 yet withstand tremendous strains and sudden 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 45 
 
 shocks. Nowhere else are such perfect reels 
 made as In the United States, and Kentucky has 
 produced the two that are types. For nearly 
 a century the Milam and the Meek reels have 
 been on the market, and the first reels these 
 firms made are almost Identical with the mod- 
 ern ones. 
 
 Fig. 4.^MIlam No. 2 Quadruple Multiplying Reel. Exact 
 oize. 
 
 At a national tournament a few years ago, 
 the winner of the accuracy balt-casting event 
 used a tiny No. i reel that had been used by 
 the owner for many years, and by his father 
 before him; more than fifty years In all, surely. 
 And that reel Is as good to-day as a new one 
 and differs from the present-day type only in 
 
46 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 that It has a crank handle Instead of a balanced 
 handle. 
 
 Fig. 5.— Meek No. 2 Reel. Three- fourths Actual Size. 
 One Improvement that has been made in re- 
 cent years Is In the use of spiral gears instead 
 of the old straight gears. Spiral gears mesh 
 more smoothly, and the wear Is more uniform, 
 while greater strength Is attained, as a greater 
 bearing surface between pinion and gear Is had. 
 Another improvement Is the screw-off cap over 
 each end of the axle. This makes It possible 
 to oil these main bearings without taking the 
 reel apart. Garnets are fitted In these bearings 
 If desired, Insuring longer wear than is pos- 
 sible with the customary steel bearings. 
 
 A satisfactory fishing reel may be had for $5 
 or a little less, but It is good economy to pay $15 
 for a far better reel, and If you can afford the 
 very best, $25 to $30. Such a reel will out- 
 last your fishing days, and always be depend- 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 47 
 
 able. The old-time free running reel has no 
 superior; by " free running " Is meant that there 
 Is no graduated device for retarding the speed 
 of the spool. Free-spool reels are of another 
 class, in which there is a device to throw the 
 gears out of mesh during a cast, the handle re- 
 maining at rest, the gears engaging while the 
 line is being wound in. They are excellent reels, 
 but considerable practice is necessary to cast 
 without backlashing, as the spool-action Is very 
 rapid. 
 
 Fig. 6. — Meek No. 3 Blue Grass Reel. 
 If you ask a manufacturer how to take one 
 of his reels apart for cleaning, he will probably 
 tell you not to attempt this at all, as only " one 
 skilled In the art," as Inventors say, can adjust 
 a reel properly. This Is of course true of some 
 reels In the hands of careless persons, but one 
 who possesses ordinary skill may easily take 
 
48 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 apart, clean, oil, and reassemble a reel without 
 injuring it in the least. There is no other course 
 left open to one who happens to be far from 
 repair shops when his reel needs attention, and 
 the sooner he learns how to care for it himself, 
 the better off will he be. 
 
 If your reel has oil-caps, by removing these 
 and the handle, you can oil the end bearings, the 
 pinion, and the handle and gear-post without 
 disturbing the adjustment of the parts. This 
 is an immense advantage, but all bearings should 
 be cleaned before oiling. 
 
 In reels that have capped face plates this Is 
 a simple matter, as the screws merely hold the 
 cap in place and exert uniform pressure on the 
 spindle ends, and one may take out the gear, 
 clean its post and teeth, the pinion and all bear- 
 ings, replace the cap by means of three or four 
 screws, none of which enter the pillars. All 
 bearings save one may be cleaned without dis- 
 turbing the adjustment of the frame. In order 
 to get at this one, the face plate of some but not 
 all reels must be removed and the spool taken 
 out. Some reels are easy to readjust because 
 the front plate is held by only one, or at most 
 four screws; but those that have a screw in 
 each one of the five pillars must be readjusted 
 with the utmost care, and patience is necessary. 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 49 
 
 as you must set the screws, test it, and perhaps 
 repeat this two or three times before all is 
 well. 
 
 The cap screws should be turned down easily 
 and the spool tried, to see if there is any play 
 longitudinally. Some reels require a little play, 
 while others do not. 
 
 Before touching a screw try the spool and 
 ascertain how much play it has. Then lay your 
 watch in front of you, and holding the reel in the 
 left hand with the handle up, so that the handle 
 and gears will revolve horizontally, grasp the 
 handle with the thumb and first two fingers of 
 the right hand, the second finger on the handle- 
 knob, and spin the reel smartly as the second 
 hand of your watch passes a certain point, not- 
 ing how long it takes for the handle to lose all 
 motion. Try this three or four times until you 
 are certain that the spool will spin just so long 
 each time. If there is a line on the reel, tuck 
 Its ends under with a toothpick, to prevent it 
 from striking the pillars and retarding the 
 spool. 
 
 In turning the cap screws down, test the spool 
 for play and speed, bearing in mind that since 
 cleaning and oiling all bearings it should spin 
 several seconds longer than when foul with 
 gummed oil — that is, unless you have put too 
 
50 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 much oil on gear and pinion, in which case the 
 reel may be out of commission until the sur- 
 plus oil is removed. If ten seconds was the 
 time of spinning while dirty, fourteen or fifteen 
 seconds should be about right for the clean 
 spool, and if it falls below this, tighten the 
 screws a trifle more and try again for time and 
 play. If all screws are tightened uniformly, 
 a few trials will show you when to stop, and if 
 these directions are religiously followed, the 
 reel should be in perfect order. 
 
 It is important that a good screw-driver and 
 the best reel oil be used. It is also advisable 
 to examine all bearings, after cleaning, with a 
 microscope, at the same time removing all parti- 
 cles of grit or dust with the end of a toothpick. 
 The pinion in a good reel is made from tool 
 steel, and the gear from bronze or hard brass, 
 but a tiny speck of grit is a bad thing for either 
 one. 
 
 All tests should be made while the spool of 
 the reel is filled with the line that you are ac- 
 customed to using in fishing practice. Exerting 
 equal force, the spool will spin one-fourth to 
 one-third longer when filled with line than 
 when empty. 
 
 In these remarks quadruple multiplying reels 
 are referred to, for the reason that nearly all of 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 51 
 
 the small fishing and all of the tournament 
 reels are geared thus. No properly made quad- 
 ruple reel has four times as many teeth in the 
 gear as in the pinion. Generally there are three 
 or four teeth less in the gear, the number de- 
 pending largely on the diameter decided on for 
 that wheel as the best when the diameter of 
 plates, length of spool and handle, and general 
 purpose of reel are taken into consideration. 
 One good reason for the odd number of teeth 
 in the large gear is that every tooth in the pinion 
 bears on every one in the gear, always chang- 
 ing, and In this way the wear Is equalized and 
 the meshing Is perfect at all points In every 
 revolution. 
 
 Every tooth added to the large gear de- 
 creases the strength and winding power of the 
 mechanism, and the logical conclusion Is that 
 the double multiplier Is best for reels of large 
 size, where power Is preferred to speed In de- 
 livering and recovering line. This is illustrated 
 in eighty-yard quadruple reels used for bass 
 fishing and tournament casting. The spool of 
 the fishing reel may be i% inches In length and 
 i^ inches In diameter, with a balance handle 
 234 or 2 y2 Inches In length. The spool of the 
 tournament reel may be i ^ Inches long, i ^ 
 inches In diameter, very thin and light, and the 
 
52 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 handle only i J^ inches long. The latter will 
 spool thin line beautifully and deliver it rapidly, 
 but If used In fishing It will recover line very 
 slowly when a two-pound bass Is tugging at the 
 hook, the small spool and the short handle fur- 
 nishing very little leverage. 
 
 On the other hand, the fishing reel will 
 handle large bass easily, but when used In 
 tournament casting. It will be found that the 
 handle is too long and the spool too narrow and 
 deep for nice, even spooling and delivery. The 
 reel that is a modification of both types re- 
 ferred to will give fair satisfaction at the 
 tournament and on the lake, and for the man of 
 one outfit this is the reel to own. 
 
 Some anglers prefer to let German silver 
 reels tarnish — as they will In fresh water Im- 
 pregnated with mineral substances, and from 
 contact with one's hands — but others do not. It 
 Is true that this tarnishing takes the place of the 
 glitter of the freshly buffed reel, although Ger- 
 man silver glistens far less than the nickle of 
 cheap reels; but It Is one thing to let the reel 
 tarnish slightly, and quite another to permit 
 dust and gummed oil to accumulate until the use- 
 fulness of the reel Is affected. The reel should 
 be cleaned thoroughly at least once each sea- 
 son, preferably In the winter. 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 53 
 
 The easiest way to polish the frame is with 
 a buffer, but chamois skin and tripoK will re- 
 move all harmful dirt from smooth surfaces, 
 while the angles may be reached by folding the 
 leather over a sliver of soft pine and rubbing 
 with this. The bearings must not be touched 
 with any abrasive or polishing substance. They 
 should be cleaned thoroughly with benzine — but 
 do not light your pipe during this operation. 
 An old soft toothbrush and benzine should be 
 used on pinion, gear, and all bearings, and in 
 order to be sure that the parts are cleared from 
 gummed oil, examine them when they are dry 
 under a microscope. 
 
 This Inspection should be minute. A good 
 reel is to a certain extent a delicate machine, 
 and although you may not remember it. It may 
 be that you dropped rod and reel at some time 
 last summer while fishing and damaged the 
 gears. Perhaps you have wondered why Its 
 song has a harsh note, but still it seems to be all 
 right. If any of the bearings show wear in 
 places where they should be smooth, or If the 
 teeth of pinion or gear have any rough spots — 
 under the glass these teeth resemble those in 
 a huge saw — send the reel post haste to its 
 maker. He alone can put It to rights. Other- 
 wise, when all the parts are absolutely clean, 
 
54 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 put the reel together again, using the second 
 hand of your watch to determine its correct ad- 
 justment, as previously described. Every reel 
 should be kept in a chamois bag or in one of 
 the chamois-lined sole leather cases. Then put 
 it away in the tackle-box, making a mental note 
 to oil it slightly the night before you go away 
 on your first fishing trip next spring. 
 
 Beginners may fail to notice an important 
 point in connection with the timing of the reel 
 for adjustment by the watch. The present-day 
 quadruple multiplying reels — most of them, at 
 least — will spin longer when the spool is hori- 
 zontal than otherwise, but this is not a fair 
 test, as in casting with the short rod the hand 
 is turned to the left — (i) to insure the line 
 running through the guides and top without 
 fouling the rod; and (2) because there is less 
 friction on the bearings of the reel when it is 
 held handle up (Fig. 7). In timing his reel the 
 novice will naturally turn the balance handle 
 from left to right, and if it spins say twenty- 
 one seconds, he will put that down as its time 
 and never stop to consider the fact that he is 
 turning it backward, or in the direction the 
 handle turns when the spool is taking up the 
 line — where smoothness and speed do not so 
 much count. 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 55 
 
 Another thing: if his reel has spiral gears, 
 as many of the best reels have, its spool may 
 not revolve so freely in recovering as in deliver- 
 ing, therefore one will not gain a fair knowl- 
 edge of its capabilities for casting unless he 
 spins it backward. This is more difficult to do 
 with thumb and finger because of the form of 
 the balance handle. 
 
 A better plan, and one giving more accurate 
 results is this: Take a piece of small cord and 
 wax one end. Lay this on the spindle of the 
 spool and wind over it, just as you would with 
 a casting line, always winding a given length of 
 cord, say twelve inches. Hold the reel firmly 
 in one hand, handle at the top, and when the 
 second hand of your watch is over a given 
 point, pull the cord evenly with the other hand 
 until it comes away from the spindle — just as a 
 boy spins a top. Pull steadily, exerting not much 
 more force than would the half-ounce weight 
 in a cast. Your reel will spin as it does in cast- 
 ing, and the method insures steadiness and 
 uniform results, as you will find after a few 
 trials. 
 
 If the reel is made of hard rubber with bronze 
 or brass parts, on taking it apart you may find 
 verdigris under and in the teeth of the gear, 
 and this, as well as the gummed oil, must be 
 
S6 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 cleared out. A good reel is a constant source 
 of pride to its owner, if he appreciates it, and 
 while few other mechanical " contrivances " are 
 called upon to and do withstand sb. many severe 
 shocks and strains, a little grit in its vitals 
 will cause as much trouble to it as a small peb- 
 ble in your shoe will to you. Neither one is 
 fatal, but may have a bad effect in time. 
 
 The gears and pinions of various reels differ 
 slightly. Some mesh closely, the leaves of the 
 pinion fitting rather tightly in the teeth of the 
 gear. These require rather thin oil, but do 
 not use any of the thin bicycle oils, some of 
 which contain substances of no value to reels. 
 Ask your dealer for the best reel oil, or obtain 
 a bottle of oil from a watchmaker. If properly 
 used, an ounce of reel oil will last several sea- 
 sons. It must be applied sparingly, and only 
 on clean parts. Generally, but not invariably, 
 the larger the reel the heavier may the oil be, 
 and some salt water reels work well if petro- 
 leum jelly or graphite is applied to the gears, 
 though nothing but the best oil should be put 
 on smooth bearings. 
 
 If, when the oil is applied, the reel seems to 
 be jammed and will not spin freely, it is a good 
 sign that the gears are gummed up, or that too 
 much or too heavy oil has been applied. Clean 
 
REELS AND THEIR CARE 57 
 
 thoroughly and try again with less oil. It Is 
 possible to completely clog the mechanism of 
 a fine reel with oil, and reels are often sent 
 back to their makers as " no good," when the 
 only fault Is that too much oil has been put 
 in them. In a quadruple reel of high grade, 
 whose gears mesh closely, a drop too much 
 may completely stop the turning of the parts. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 CORK DRUMS FOR REELS 
 
 IT is customary for anglers to use a reel 
 larger than they need, and to fill the spool 
 one-third to one-half full of old or com- 
 mon line, then wind on the line that is to be 
 used in fishing. When it is ready to use, the 
 spool is two-thirds or three-fourths filled, en- 
 abling one to thumb it more readily, and as Its 
 size increases through wetting, one turn of the 
 spool releases or recovers much more line 
 than If the winding of the good line were begun 
 on the empty spool. 
 
 There are some objections to this plan, par- 
 ticularly as applied to the small long-spool 
 reels used in bait-casting contests and in fishing. 
 If the dummy is composed of coarse line. It Is 
 difficult to spool It evenly, leaving an uneven 
 surface on which the fine casting line must be 
 wound. If common thread Is used for a dum- 
 my, It Is difficulty to wind It so that It will be 
 hard and firm. This must be done In order to 
 attain the best results, as a spongy foundation 
 for the gossamer-like casting line will Increase 
 58 
 
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CORK DRUMS FOR REELS 59 
 
 the tendency toward backlashing, and It will lose 
 Its cylindrical form after repeated casting, 
 causing one's thumb to press hard at one place 
 and skip at another. After use the silk casting 
 line must be wound on a dryer or coiled on a 
 smooth surface until thoroughly dry, and as 
 such a line Is generally one hundred yards or 
 more in length, It Is a nuisance to take off the 
 dummy, too, but as it gets wet and will not 
 dry on the reel, off It comes or it would ruin 
 the silk line. 
 
 If you use a long-spool reel In casting, with 
 a line thinner than H size, you will need a dum- 
 my I or ij^ inches In diameter. A good plan 
 Is to fit cork disks on the spool. These can be 
 obtained at cork stores. Either vaseline bot- 
 tle corks or rod grasp corks will serve. Select 
 four perfect corks, and with an old ferrule 
 cut holes through the exact center of each one, 
 concaving the ends of two, so that they will 
 fit the convex spool ends. Take the spool out 
 of the reel while fitting corks. Split all of the 
 corks from the central holes to the rim, using 
 a very thin sharp knife blade. 
 
 Obviously the hole in each cork must be a 
 trifle larger than the spindle of the spool, over 
 which the end corks are to be fitted first. After 
 fitting the end corks, slip the third one Into 
 place, and while there Is room, coat each cork 
 
60 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 very slightly with shellac. Split the fourth cork 
 so that it will fill the remaining space snugly 
 and slip it on, shellacking the slit in each cork 
 and turning all so that no two slits come op- 
 posite each other. Wind a bit of thread over 
 all to hold them In place until dry, then remove 
 the thread and shave off all uneven places. 
 
 Smoothing the corks to perfect form should 
 be done in a lathe with a fine file, but if a lathe 
 Is not at hand, assemble the reel and fasten it 
 lightly In a vise, the jaws of which are covered 
 with cloth to protect the reel-yoke. Turn the 
 handle with one hand and hold the file with 
 the other, being careful that It does not touch 
 the ends of the spool. Exert the least possible 
 pressure in grinding the cork drum to perfect 
 form, blowing the cork dust away from the 
 reel frequently. 
 
 Measure the diameter of the drum, and when 
 it is correct, wind the entire drum with thread, 
 being as careful as if you were winding a fine 
 rod. Pull both ends of the thread under with 
 a separate loop, and leave the second one to tie 
 the casting line to. Coat this winding twice 
 with shellac, which will bind It and preserve the 
 shape of the drum. Otherwise it may bulge 
 in places. When the shellac is dry, clean the 
 reel and wind the casting line on it. This should 
 
CORK DRUMS FOR REELS 61 
 
 fill the spool three-fourths, allowing for a slight 
 Increase when the line Is wet. The cork being 
 extremely light, the weight of the wet line Is 
 placed further away from the axis of the spool, 
 giving the reel Increased efficiency In casting. 
 
 For a reel the diameter of which Is two 
 inches and the length of the spool i% Inches, 
 the cork dummy should be i or i 1/16 inches 
 In diameter for a tournament line, and this 
 should be sufficient for the fishing reel, which 
 requires less diameter of wound line than does 
 the tournament line. 
 
 The simplest way to determine the diameter 
 for the cork dummy Is this : wind the fine casting 
 line on the bare spindle, and on this wind com- 
 mon thread until the spool Is three-fourtha 
 filled. Cut the thread and remove it from the 
 reel; remove the casting line and replace the 
 thread on the reel. Measure Its mean dia- 
 meter, which will be correct for the dummy. 
 
 Generally speaking, one can safely place 
 more line on a tournament than on a fishing reel, 
 as he watches the line carefully while spooling 
 it In tournament work, but may not do so while 
 playing a fish, and If he Is careless the line may 
 foul the pillars and a sudden jerk by the fish 
 may break the line. 
 
 If there are to be changes in lines, the dia- 
 
62 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 meter of the cork should be reduced slightly, 
 and a dummy line employed to make up the re- 
 required diameter when the reel is full. The 
 cork Is firm and even but not hard, and the de- 
 vice Is a useful one. Nearly all tournament 
 casters employ cork dummies, and a few reels 
 have been made with metal drums, which are 
 of course more substantial than cork. It is a 
 pity that more standard reels are not made 
 with metal drums. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 LEADERS, GUT, AND EYED FLIES 
 
 THE production of silkworm gut has not 
 kept pace with the demand, which has 
 increased enormously during the last 
 quarter century. 
 
 The best silkworm gut comes from Spain, 
 the market being practically controlled by 
 British firms. The high price of gut has created 
 a demand for substitutes, but while there are 
 several of these, as a general thing they are un- 
 satisfactory. There is no doubt that a good 
 substitute will be produced in time, but in order 
 to be a success It must be less flabby and soft, 
 when wet, than the present substitutes. These 
 are very strong, but after a little soaking they 
 become stringy and soft, and are of little value 
 for fly casting. The one advantage they pos- 
 sess is that they are made without knots. A 
 tapered leader can be made of this stuff with 
 only two or three knots. 
 
 As silkworm gut Is drawn, the larger or sal- 
 63 
 
64 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 mon sizes average nine or ten inches in length, 
 while the bass sizes are twelve to fourteen inches 
 long, and the trout sizes up to eighteen or 
 twenty inches. With every strand there is con- 
 siderable waste. They are put up lOO in a 
 hank, and are generally sold by the trade In 
 this shape, though retailers sometimes put them 
 up in lots of twenty-five, so that anglers who 
 make their own leaders can obtain an assort- 
 ment of three or four sizes — enough to make 
 several tapered leaders — without purchasing 
 several hanks of lOO strands each. 
 
 In recent years the demand for bleached 
 and stained gut has decreased steadily. Per- 
 haps gut was at first bleached because in that 
 shape it shows to better advantage than the 
 natural article. The staining was for the pur- 
 pose of rendering it less conspicuous in the 
 water, but experience has proved that neutral 
 colors are not of so much importance as they 
 were at one time popularly believed to be; 
 witness the various lines, in which white and 
 black and showy colors are all successfully used 
 in taking fish. 
 
 Bleaching injures the gut. Staining does or 
 does not; it depends on the agent employed. 
 Soaking in cold tea, rubbing with dock leaves, 
 and a number of other harmless things have 
 
LEADERS, GUT, EYED FLIES 65 
 
 long been used In dulling the gloss of new gut 
 without injuring it. 
 
 The names given the various sizes of Spanish 
 silkworm gut, and their calibers, in thousandths 
 of an inch, follow: 
 
 Royal 020 022 
 
 Imperial 019 020 
 
 Marana II 016 017 
 
 Padron 1 014 016 
 
 Padron II 013 015 
 
 Regular 013 014 
 
 Drawn gut on and less. 
 
 Leaders commonly used for trout fishing are 
 not expensive, as they are small in size and 
 composed of the longest strands; but tapered 
 leaders, now used for dry-fly fishing, cost more. 
 The tapered salmon leaders, which are made up 
 from three or four of the heaviest sizes of 
 gut, retail at $3 to $6 each. In a nine-foot 
 leader of this sort there are many short strands, 
 and these short strands must be selected with the 
 greatest care, because so many more of them 
 are imperfect than in the smaller sizes. 
 
 Salmon leaders are sometimes made with 
 the upper third of three strands of small gut, 
 twisted hard; the middle of two strands, 
 twisted; and the point of medium weight single 
 gut. In the twisted gut the ends are sometimes 
 knotted separately, or the strands are spliced, 
 while the double gut strands are knotted in 
 
66 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 pairs. Nice tapers are obtained in this way, but 
 after soaking the twisted gut swells more than 
 the single gut, and is not so smooth and wiry, 
 though strong. 
 
 In olden times horsehair leaders were much 
 used, and are still employed to some extent in 
 England. The hairs from the tail of a gray 
 stallion were said to be the best, while those 
 from a mare's tail were regarded as useless. 
 
 In tournament fly-casting for distance the 
 finest grade leaders are used, mainly in salmon 
 sizes. In the salmon events combination 
 leaders are allowed, but for all single-hand rods 
 the leaders must be of single gut. The general 
 rule observed in the United States is that every 
 tournament leader must be at least six feet in 
 length, and it cannot exceed the length of the 
 rod used by more than two feet. In Australia, 
 where tournament casting is practiced by an 
 enthusiastic group of Sydney trout fishermen, 
 leaders of twenty and thirty feet are used, and 
 with their strong, dry winds, this in part ac- 
 counts for the great distances they have ac- 
 complished in casting with heavy single-hand 
 rods. 
 
 Formerly leaders of fifteen and eighteen feet 
 were used here In distance casting, but since 
 the casters have all adopted lines with very long 
 
LEADERS, GUT, EYED FLIES 67 
 
 tapers, leaders average rather less than the 
 length of the rods. Those used with all rods 
 are much alike. They taper from the heaviest 
 salmon size down to heavy trout size, and are 
 selected with great care, since to whip off a fly 
 means the loss of that cast and an important 
 part of the time alloted the caster. For this use 
 it Is better to use a heavy level leader than to 
 have the point too fine. In the accuracy wet- 
 fly contests. In which a short leader is an ad- 
 vantage, the minimum limit of six feet is stand- 
 ard. In the dry-fly accuracy events medium 
 to light weight leaders are used, generally just 
 over six feet in length, and tapered. 
 
 The new dry-fly leaders — for fishing — are 
 generally 7J4 feet long; tapered from medium 
 to very fine trout gut, with one loop, at the line 
 end. As one fly only Is employed in this branch 
 of trout fishing, the dropper loops tied In wet- 
 fly leaders are objectionable. 
 
 The old-time leaders were three, six, and nine 
 feet In length. But in place of the six and 
 seven ounce rods used with them, four-and- 
 three-quarter ounce tournament rods nine feet 
 In length are now much used In dry-fly fishing. 
 These rods are rather stiff and very powerful, 
 hence In order to develop the best qualities of 
 the rod. It Is necessary to use a heavy double 
 
68 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 tapered line. Size F, the old favorite, is giving 
 way to E, and the D size Is also much used. 
 
 In these lines the taper Is short, 12 feet or 
 less. Thus it will be understood that a 9-foot 
 taper and a 7 J^ -foot leader, propelled by a 
 fairly heavy line on a stiff rod, may be depend- 
 ed on In all sorts of weather for accurate casts 
 of fifteen to twenty-five feet. And for long 
 casts this equipment is Ideal. 
 
 While these rods are excellent for fishing on 
 large streams, on rocky and overgrown woods 
 brooks, three, two, and even ij4 ounce rods 
 of 7 to 8 J^ feet are favorites with many anglers. 
 Even with these little rods fairly heavy lines 
 are the rule, the short tapers being fine at the 
 ends, so that small 4^- and 6-foot leaders 
 can be handled accurately at short range. 
 
 In working out with the dry-fly — which 
 must be done without touching the water In 
 front — It is much more dIfHcult to handle rod 
 and line In places that are overhung with trees 
 than in wet-fly casting, hence the utility of the 
 heavy line, short taper, and short leader. 
 
 It is good fun to make up your own leaders 
 on winter nights. But even If you do not do 
 this, it is economical to repair those that have 
 been used, and put them in good condition for 
 the coming season. Soak them well; it is a 
 
LEADERS, GUT, EYED FLIES 69 
 
 good plan to put all leaders to be repaired in 
 a tray of water, taking out each one as needed. 
 Examine the loop, and If It is frayed or broken, 
 cut It off and tie a new one. This Is made by 
 doubling the gut, passing the single loop thus 
 formed around the doubled strands and under 
 the double loop, then pulling taut. Fig. 9 shows 
 
 Fig. 9. — Forming the Leader Loop, 
 this, but bear In mind that twisting the strands 
 will result In a bad knot. Cut the short end 
 close to the knot. It will not pull out. 
 
 Make the loop short, and attach end of line 
 to leader as shown in Fig. 10. This is a 
 
 Fig. 10. — ^Attaching End of Line to Leader 
 simple but very secure fastening, and one which 
 may be untied without difficulty or injury to 
 the line. The end of line may be looped back, 
 
70 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 so that It may be pulled out readily, but this 
 makes a clumsy knot, and Is unnecessary. An- 
 other method that is followed by some anglers 
 Is to attach a short loop of heavy gut to the 
 end of the line, so that the leader can be looped 
 over this. It Is satisfactory If the gut loop 
 be soaked before strain Is put on it, and also 
 provided the loop be very firmly made fast. 
 It should be soaked thoroughly, then whipped 
 on with heavily waxed silk under considerable 
 tension, so that It cannot pull out. 
 
 Examine all knots In the leader, and If the 
 gut be broken next to one of them — as fre- 
 quently happens — cut It and tie a new knot. 
 This may at first seem to be a difficult matter, 
 but If you will practice with the ends of a piece 
 of cord large enough to give you a clear idea 
 how the thing Is done, it v/ill be easy to master. 
 Many knots are In common use, but with most 
 of them the ends of the gut stick out parallel 
 with the strands, and are rough and untidy. In 
 the knot given In Fig. 1 1 the ends stand out at 
 right angles to the strands, and may be clipped 
 off close to the knot, as they cannot pull out. 
 The ends of the gut are overlapped slightly, 
 then one end is turned twice around the other 
 strand and secured between the two. Reverse 
 ends and tie the second part of the knot in the 
 
LEADERS, GUT, EYED FLIES 71 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 Fig. II. — Method of Tying a Leader Knot. 
 same way. When pulled taut the ends may be 
 cut off close. 
 
 Accidental knots can usually be worked out 
 and the gut straightened, but if not, replace 
 that strand with a new one. 
 
 When the new leader is finished, or the old 
 one repaired, suspend it from a brad driven In 
 a picture moulding, and attach a weight to the 
 lower end, to stretch it slightly while it is dry- 
 ing. A dipsy sinker Is excellent for this pur- 
 pose. When dry take the leader down, coil it 
 and put it away In a dry, dark place, with a tag 
 attached, giving its length and size. Gut 
 should never be kept In a strong light. 
 
 Finally, swear off using snelled flies and 
 
72 
 
 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 stock up on eyed flies instead. These are better 
 in every way, but one advantage alone is suffi- 
 cient — you have no snells to soak in changing 
 flies. Besides, the snells are a nuisance in every 
 way. It is almost impossible to keep the fly- 
 book in which they are kept tidy, and it is bulky 
 and awkward to handle on the stream. The 
 neat little aluminum fly-boxes (Figs. 12 and 13) 
 
 
 Fig. 12. — Eyed Fly-Box with Clips. 
 
 Fig. 13.— Eyed Fly-Box with Partitions and Transparent 
 Covers. 
 
LEADERS, GUT, EYED FLIES 73 
 
 are compact, roomy, and on opening one you 
 see at a glance all its contents. And every fly 
 is securely fastened in its proper place. 
 
 If it is desired to use eyed wet flies — two or 
 more — these are attached to the leader with 
 short tippets, kept in the leader soak-box when 
 not in use. 
 
 Whether the eyed fly is attached to point of 
 leader or to a tippet, the Turle knot (Fig. 14) 
 
 c^^ ^ 
 
 Fig. 14.— The Turle Knot. 
 
 IS one of the simplest and best. Pass the gut 
 through the eye of hook and tie a slip knot 
 with a loop large enough to go over the fly 
 without injuring it. Pull the loop tight over 
 head of fly and clip end close. 
 
 For cutting gut, removing knots, and hand- 
 
 Fig. 15. — Gut Clipper and Tweezer 
 
 ling small flies, the combination clipper and 
 tweezer (Fig. 15) is highly recommended. 
 With ordinary scissors it is diflicult to clip close 
 
74 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 to a knot, but with this clipper the work is 
 neatly done. 
 
 In recent years the fishing tackle makers of 
 Great Britain have adopted a new system of 
 numbering hooks. This is called the new scale. 
 Americans, however, adhere to the old system, 
 known as the Reddltch scale. Both systems 
 are shown in Fig. i6, the lower figures giving 
 the old or Reddltch scale, in common use in 
 the United States, while the upper figures show 
 the new scale. 
 
 At the close of the fishing season, put away 
 the fly-book or box in a moth-proof receptacle. 
 A red cedar box is the safest place, but a metal 
 box that has a tight-fitting cover will answer. 
 As an additional precaution, put camphor balls 
 or crystals with the flies, but do not sprinkle any 
 of the latter over them, for this may serve to 
 rust the hooks. Still, it is not safe to leave fly- 
 book or box closed, even though camphor is 
 present. Instead, leave it open, so that the 
 fumes of the camphor will penetrate between 
 all leaves. The best plan is to secure a small 
 atomizer, put gasoline in it, and spray all of the 
 flies before putting them away for the season. 
 This, with the camphor, will keep away moths, 
 and destroy any eggs that may already be 
 among the flies. 
 
LEADERS, GUT, EYED FLIES 75 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 17 16 15 14 13 12 U 10 
 
 7 6 5 
 
 Fig. i6. — Lower Figures Give the Numbers in the Red- 
 ditch Scale. Upper Figures, the New Scale. 
 
76 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Repeat this at least once during the winter, 
 in order to be on the safe side. If you ever 
 open your fly-book on a cold night — ^just to re- 
 new acquaintance with old friends — and find 
 your favorite flies a mass of fluff, you will not 
 need a second warning. Where there are 
 moths the utmost care is necessary in protect- 
 ing flies. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 ROD CASES AND FORMS 
 
 ON the use to which you will put your rod 
 depends the kind of protective covering 
 you will need. There are anglers who 
 will have nothing but a thin muslin cover, but 
 something better is needed for rods that are to 
 be carried far. 
 
 The makers of the best fly-rods supply alum- 
 inum or bamboo tubes with screw caps for the 
 tips, this tube and the middle and butt joint go- 
 ing into a canvas case, so that the stiff tube 
 protects the two other parts when all are bound 
 with the tie-tapes of the cover. The wood 
 form is the most common type, and these are 
 cheap. Aluminum tubes with screw caps are 
 suitable for either fly or bait rods. Aluminum 
 tubing of almost any desired size is obtain- 
 able from the supply companies, at 20 to 
 50 cents per foot, and fiber tubing of similar 
 sizes can be had from some hardwareman at 
 about the same prices. Both fiber and alum- 
 inum tubes are made in sizes up to about two 
 
 17 
 
78 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Inches. For long rods a tube of some sort Is 
 very handy. It can be fitted with corks, or with 
 a screw cap on one end, and In a case of this 
 sort a rod is safe from hard knocks. 
 
 Tip cases are sometimes made to order by 
 houses that supply mailing tubes. The meth- 
 od of winding the strips of strawboard spir- 
 ally makes these tubes tough and strong, and if 
 the walls are thick, the ends corked and the tube 
 supplied with a canvas case, the rod will be well 
 protected. I have seen these tubes as small as 
 one Inch In diameter, for long tips. Sometimes 
 they are covered with leather. They are fre- 
 quently made thus for bait-casting rods which 
 have separate handgrasps, the grasps to be car- 
 ried in a pocket or tackle case. 
 
 A very good plan is to groove a piece of 
 white pine so that the tips of the rod will lie 
 below the surface, the grooves being enlarged 
 to let the guides go underneath, then Inclose 
 this form In a canvas case with the butt and 
 joint, the whole rod being fairly well protected. 
 Choose a piece an Inch thick and about 2 Inches 
 wide. 
 
 Still another way Is to employ a canvas case 
 of the form Illustrated In Figs. 17 and 18. The 
 upper end Is bound with braid or Is hemmed, 
 the lower edge turned over and sewed length- 
 
ROD CASES AND FORMS 70 
 
 T 
 
 Figs. 17 and 18. — Canvas Case for Rods, 
 wise and three tapes attached to the back. This 
 leaves pockets for the butt, the joint and the 
 two tips. One of the tip pockets Is made large 
 enough to admit a piece of wood a half-inch 
 square and of the same length as the tips. 
 Round off Its corners and It will not Injure the 
 tip. When the rod is taken out of the case this 
 piece of wood will remain to protect the extra 
 tip, which might otherwise be broken. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 GENERAL HINTS 
 
 THE creel is usually associated with trout 
 fishing, when, as a matter of fact, It is 
 one of the handiest things the fisher has 
 fallen heir to for all sorts of fishing in which 
 wading or walking Is the rule — fishing from a 
 boat, of course, calling for another sort of kit. 
 But there are all sorts of creels. 
 
 The best one for all-round use Is the long, 
 thin creel. It is no more trouble to carry than 
 one of the short, thick kind; in fact, it is less 
 likely to catch on briers, trees, and wire fences 
 as one walks along a stream. If you will im- 
 prove it to suit your own needs, it will be still 
 more useful. There is space enough In it for a 
 small kit, lunch, and any ordinary number of 
 fish you may catch before noon. But if lunch, 
 fly-box, soak-box, and other articles are all 
 jumbled together in it, it Is awkward to put 
 your fish in with them. Remedy this by putting 
 a partition In the creel. Some anglers divide 
 
 80 
 

 
 
 '■? '.,;^ 
 
 
 
 
 •\^«r^ 
 
 ^;' 
 
 pra 
 
 '^H 
 
 1 
 
 ^' .-:- 
 
GENERAL HINTS 81 
 
 the creel with a piece of fiber or a strip of can- 
 vas laced to the bottom and ends; others use in- 
 sulated wires. Whatever is put in should be 
 immune from damage when the creel is washed 
 out. 
 
 If the partition is close to the back of the 
 basket, and extends nearly to the top, this will 
 give you ample space for fly-book, soak-box, 
 and package of lunch. The larger space, in the 
 front of the creel, will then be clear for the fish 
 you catch. The bottom being lower at the 
 front, the water that enters with your catch 
 will drain off without wetting your lunch. With 
 this arrangement every article '^ stays put.'' 
 
 In my creel I carry a landing-net which col- 
 lapses, and this reduces the outfit to two parts 
 to be carried — rod and creel. The landing net 
 referred to has a bronze hoop about a foot in 
 diameter — I cut mine down to nine inches. It 
 may be extended or contracted like a spiral 
 clock spring. When closed or open the hoop is 
 clamped rigidly by means of a set-screw. The 
 handle is a short piece of bamboo. In the end 
 of this I put a piece of rawhide four inches 
 long, securing it with a cork shellacked and 
 driven in. The net is of ample size. When 
 closed, the net is wound around the hoop, and 
 in this shape the device is about five inches wide 
 
82 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 by eleven Inches In length. It occupies little 
 space In the back of the creel. 
 
 The rawhide strap has a slit ending In an 
 eyelet. On the web shoulder-strap of the creel 
 a metal button Is sewed. When the creel Is in 
 place this button is just over the left shoulder. 
 The strap is buttoned on and the landing net 
 rests behind the left shoulder. When the net 
 is wanted the strap Is within reach of either 
 hand. It is next to impossible to lose a landing 
 net secured In this fashion. It is not In the 
 way of either hand while one is fishing, and 
 when wanted It may be detached in an instant 
 without any fumbling. 
 
 When one is wading a stream there is always 
 the possibility that he may slip and fall in swift 
 water. The seriousness of such an accident de- 
 pends largely on the character of the water and 
 the shore Immediately below him and on the 
 clothing and equipment. It being second nature 
 for an angler to cling to his rod through thick 
 and thin, If he Is encased in heavy wading trou- 
 sers and brogues and carries a heavy creel se- 
 cured with straps and buckles, he may be In for 
 a very unpleasant ten minutes before he gets 
 his feet under him again on solid bottom. At 
 such a time It Is foolhardly to think of swim- 
 ming. Instead, exert every effort to keep your 
 
GENERAL HINTS 83 
 
 head upstream, and turning face down, so that 
 creel and landing net will drift behind you, stop 
 your progress with hands and feet, gain a foot- 
 hold, and rise slowly. If it is necessary to free 
 yourself of the creel, this is much more easily 
 done with one hand If the fastenings are snaps 
 instead of buckles. 
 
 For use in dry-fly fishing I soldered a rather 
 large safety pin on one of the ten-cent oil tubes 
 sold everywhere by the trade. Filled with par- 
 affin oil, it Is pinned on the creel shoulder strap 
 or secured on the leather strap that passes 
 through the back of the creel, where it cannot 
 be turned upside down. 
 
 As the screw cap of this tube is a clumsy 
 thing to handle, I improved It, too. A small 
 hole was drilled Into Its top, then a larger one 
 was bored through It from side to side, tapping 
 the first hole. A piece of silk line was pushed 
 down the hole In the top and out at one side, 
 a knot tied In the end and pulled Into the cap. 
 The other end of the cord was tied into the 
 safety pin. As the cord will swivel, the cap 
 may be unscrewed without snarling It, and it 
 cannot be lost. 
 
 There are a number of handy devices to be 
 had In the trade for carrying paraffin oil and 
 other solutions Intended to make flies float. 
 
84 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 One of them is a tiny atomizer which is cleaner 
 to use than any bottle or other receptacle, from 
 which oil may find its way into one's clothing, 
 there to remain " for keeps." 
 
 For floating a dressed line, use crude petro- 
 leum — a drop on a piece of flannel is sufficient 
 to float the heaviest tapered line. It is also ex- 
 cellent for cleaning the line occasionally. Use 
 it sparingly, and wipe the line dry afterward. 
 
 For wet weather purchase a fishing shirt. 
 These waterproof shirts, some of them, are big 
 and comfortable to wear, but may be folded 
 into a package not much more bulky than a 
 sou'wester. This head-piece is another handy 
 article to take along on day trips, unless you 
 wear a felt hat, which in itself is more or less 
 waterproof. I have been out all day in a down- 
 pour of rain many a time, but, clad in a sou'wes- 
 ter, fishing shirt, and wading trousers, was dry 
 and comfortable. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 EQUIPMENT FOR FLY- AND BAIT-CASTING 
 
 SO many Inquiries have come to me from 
 anglers In relation to fly- and balt-casting 
 practice that a few remarks on the sub- 
 ject may not be out of place here. Not only 
 are clubs being formed now and then, but small 
 groups of anglers In towns and villages wish to 
 practice under tournament conditions, In order 
 that they may compare their work with that of 
 other anglers who are enabled to watch expert 
 casters and obtain advice from them, and to 
 cast under their coaching as well. Club mem- 
 bers practice tournament casting In order that 
 they may become better anglers, and In group 
 or club practice the angler attains better re- 
 sults than he can possibly hope for In experi- 
 menting alone. The principal fault In practic- 
 ing alone is that he cannot see the faults that a 
 companion may readily point out, and In this 
 way he may fall into errors very difficult to cor- 
 rect. Friendly criticism is of immense advan- 
 tage. 
 
 85 
 
86 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Tournament casting Is largely a game, but it 
 teaches many useful things. For example, the 
 fly-fisher may supply himself with the finest 
 of tackle, but if he lacks coolness and self-con- 
 trol, he may lose his largest trout by striking 
 too hard or playing it roughly In his Impatience : 
 but if he knows exactly how to cast his fly, 
 the strength of his leader, the limitations of 
 his rod, etc., the battle Is half won when the 
 trout is hooked, for he feels confident and cool. 
 
 On the other hand, no matter how skillful he 
 may be In fly-fishing, let him take part for the 
 first time In a club contest, and his stream-ac- 
 quired skill will avail little, for he will find him- 
 self casting at a terrific rate, tying leader and 
 line In knots, and doing everything but nice 
 casting. Instead of laughing at him, however, 
 the other contestants will praise him for one 
 thing and offer a suggestion concerning another. 
 Following these, he will be surprised to find his 
 confidence returning, and the next time he tries 
 to cast he will feel less timid and forget that he 
 Is being watched. Interest in the pastime will 
 Increase, and presently he will find that his In- 
 terest in fishing is growing, and that It, too, pre- 
 sents allurements that he never thought of be- 
 fore. 
 
 There Is not much that can be done during 
 
EQUIPMENT 87 
 
 the winter in the way of fly-casting, but with 
 bait-casting the case is different. In places 
 where there is no water for summer practice, 
 there will be found suitable ground for practice 
 on the snow, and there many an otherwise dull 
 afternoon may be pleasantly passed, with the 
 bait or surf rod. The necessary equipment for 
 this is simple. Determine on the place to stand 
 in casting, which shauld be level with or slightly 
 above the surface of the snow, as a low box or a 
 couple of boards. Then with a tape measure 
 off 100 feet, and drive a stake Into the ground; 
 to this attach the end of the tape, which, when 
 stretched out another lOO feet, will furnish an 
 accurate measure for all of your casts. 
 
 If two or more persons practice together, 
 one may stand beyond the lOO foot mark while 
 the others cast, and score for them, but if one 
 casts alone, pieces of board or paper placed at 
 125, 150, 175, and 200 feet, will serve as 
 marks by which he may determine his average 
 distance casting — If he does not care, while 
 reeling In, to walk up to the place where the 
 weight falls each time, and mark the exact dis- 
 tance. 
 
 The lawn is also a fair place to practice, but 
 casting on the snow Is almost like practice on 
 the water, and In It the line becomes more or 
 
88 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 less wet, so that it does not blister the thumb, as 
 casting on the lawn with a dry line is likely to 
 do until you have become accustomed to it. 
 
 It is well to keep an accurate score, be it good 
 or bad, for this will show your improvement. 
 Make one or two preliminary casts, then cast 
 five times, scoring each cast, and divide the total 
 by five, to obtain the average, marking the best 
 single cast in each string, if you like. Count 
 every cast made, marking those in which the 
 reel overruns with a star, so that, later on, you 
 can tell whether these backlashes come less fre- 
 quently, as they should with practice. Do not 
 try to excuse them, for backlashing is discour- 
 aging in bass casting, and In a tournament it 
 ruins averages. Besides, if you could make ^Yt 
 perfect casts at every trial, you would lose in- 
 terest in the pastime. As in fishing, Its uncer- 
 tainty is one of Its greatest charms. 
 
 There are plenty of mild days in winter when 
 two or three friends may practice comfortably 
 on the snow, and at this time uneven places that 
 cannot be utilized when the ground is bare are 
 admirable for casting. This Is also a good 
 time to locate a place for next season's club or 
 group practice, and to make the necessary 
 equipment. If a stream or a pond Is convenient, 
 locate a place for a platform, and even get the 
 
EQUIPMENT 89 
 
 material for this in shape to be put into the 
 water when spring comes. 
 
 If for a club of twenty members, and spec- 
 tators are likely to number as many more when 
 contests are held, there should be two plat- 
 forms, arranged somewhat as follows (see 
 Fig. 19). 
 
 
 SHOne UNE. 
 
 £ENCHBS Off^EATSfOfi l/ZS/TORS. 
 Fig. 19. — Casting Platforms and Runways. 
 
 A represents a gangway at least twenty-five 
 feet in length. B is a platform large enough to 
 permit all of the club members to move about 
 freely while arranging rods and lines; and, of 
 course, interested visitors. It should be 
 strongly supported, to prevent a collapse under 
 the weight of a number of persons. C is a 
 gangway at least fifteen feet In length, and D 
 is the casting platform. This is placed at a dis- 
 
90 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 tance from the main platform In order that a 
 contestant while casting shall be free from all 
 interference; a cross wind will not carry his line 
 among his friends on the large platform, nor 
 endanger the rods in the rack E. The platform 
 will be close enough to the shore line for visi- 
 tors to watch the casting, but they cannot 
 bother the contestants nor endanger the rods 
 and outfits. 
 
 It Is obvious that the location of the plat- 
 forms should be made with a view to taking ad- 
 vantage of the prevailing wind, the shore line 
 being parallel with its course, so that casting 
 may be with the wind. With platforms ar- 
 ranged as shown In Fig. 19, the marking line 
 may be stretched to right or left, obliquely to- 
 ward shore at either side, obliquely away from 
 shore, and In bait-casting, straight away from 
 shore. This latter direction would be unfavor- 
 able for fly-casting, as there would hardly be 
 clear space for the back cast. 
 
 The referee should be stationed on the 
 gangway C, and he should not permit any per- 
 son to be with him while a contestant is on the 
 small platform. This cannot well be less than 
 7x9 feet in size, and the regulation height is 
 eighteen inches above the water level. Cover 
 this platform with canvas, painted, to keep the 
 
EQUIPMENT 91 
 
 lines clean and free from catching on splinters 
 and nails. 
 
 The rod rack E should be four feet high, 
 five feet long, and three feet wide, with notches 
 on the top bar, to prevent rods from being 
 blown over by the wind. Fig. 20 shows a con- 
 venient form for a rack. 
 
 Fig. 20. — Rod Rack. 
 
 H is the notched top bar, against which the 
 rods lean, while the bar M prevents them from 
 slipping. L is another cross-piece for rod 
 forms and cases. Nails may be driven in the 
 back bar of H, on which to hang coats and 
 hats. If the rack is nailed down on the shore 
 side of the platform, rods may rest against it 
 securely, with leaders in the water, ready for 
 casting. 
 
 Obviously the most reliable device with 
 which to measure fly and bait casts is a string of 
 floating boards with feet and inches marked on 
 them; but these are costly and unwieldy. Next 
 comes a line with floats attached, with the dis- 
 tances marked on them, or painted different 
 
92 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 colors, to represent various distances. The 
 first device that suggests itself is an upright 
 disk with figures painted on it, but this is im- 
 practicable because lines would catch on it, and 
 the upright would need a counter-weight to pre- 
 vent it from toppling over. 
 
 There must be no angles, projections or 
 hooks for the lines to foul. The simplest line, 
 therefore, is one consisting of 225 or 250 feet 
 of 3-16 Inch braided cord, such as tackle 
 dealers sell for $1.20 per 100 yards. A good 
 grade of curtain cord is nearly as serviceable. 
 Either one selected should be waterproof to 
 prevent shrinking, stretching, and decay. To 
 one end attach a harness snap-hook, to be snap- 
 ped Into a ring on the forward edge of the cast- 
 ing platform. This hook must be put on last, 
 as will appear farther on. Now measure off 
 sixty feet and tie a simple knot in the line. 
 Here let us digress for a moment. 
 
 Experience will prove that one who stands 
 on the platform, occupied with his casting, can- 
 not accurately determine how far he is casting a 
 fly if the marking line is equipped with floats 
 painted different colors. Neither can he see 
 figures on the floats, all of which look alike to 
 him, so fully occupied is he with his efforts to 
 lengthen his casts. Make one mark round, an- 
 
EQUIPMENT 93 
 
 other square, and so on, and he will at once as- 
 sociate the different forms with their proper 
 distances. Egg-shaped floats are the most 
 practical form, but the caster is at a disadvan- 
 tage when they are employed, and if figures are 
 painted on them, these cannot be seen easily by 
 the judges when they are at a distance. There- 
 fore, if the marks are five feet apart, which is 
 close enough for a beginning, and for practice, 
 let the first one at 60 feet be a six-inch red disk, 
 with the figures painted in black on each side 
 (R, Fig.2i). 
 
 Bore the disk as shown, with a quarter-inch 
 bit, so that the knot in the line will rest in the 
 center. Dip two pine plugs in paint and drive 
 them into the hole, one on each side, the ends 
 flush with the disk. The knot in the line being 
 between their ends, the disk cannot slip on the 
 line, and the fresh paint will hold the plugs sol- 
 idly. No matter which side of the disk is up, 
 the figures may easily be seen by the judges, 
 even at a distance. 
 
 Tie another knot five feet from the center of 
 the first disk and attach a three-inch egg-shaped 
 blue float, also plugged ( S, Fig. 21). Five feet 
 farther on attach a white disk, marked 70. At 
 75 feet use a square white disk bored from cor- 
 ner to corner; at 80 a white disk; at 85 a blue 
 
94 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 egg-shaped float; at 90 a white disk; at 95 an- 
 other blue float; and at 100 another square 
 white float (T, Fig. 21). 
 
 ^ 
 
 <^ 
 
 Fig. 21. — Floats for Marking Line. 
 
 This is about as far as the fly-caster can de- 
 termine the form of floats accurately, unless 
 they are somewhat widely separated. All that 
 is now necessary is to provide for accurate scor- 
 ing by the judges. White six-inch disks, there- 
 fore, will serve for the 1 10, 120,130, 140, 160, 
 170, 180, and 190 foot marks, with large fig- 
 ures on each. At 125, 150, 175 and 200 feet 
 use square floats, for the bait-casters can see 
 these clearly. Paint the 125 and 175 foot 
 marks red, the 150 and 200 foot marks white. 
 Blue floats mark the odd distances throughout 
 the line, except at 75, 125, and 175 feet, as 
 noted above. No weights of any sort will be 
 needed, and if the corners and edges of all 
 marks be smoothed off, there will be no place 
 on the entire line that a casting line will foul. 
 
 These markers should all be saturated with 
 
EQUIPMENT 95 
 
 linseed oil and dried before they are painted 
 and marked, to prevent them from warping 
 and checking. They should then be given two 
 coats of enamel, not paint, and if taken out of 
 the water after use, and stored in a dry place, 
 they will remain clean and bright, and the fig- 
 ures will show distinctly. Such a line will cost 
 about $5, and will last several seasons. White 
 pine is best for the large marks. It should be 
 one inch thick, and the square marks should be 
 12X12 inches. The egg-shaped floats can be 
 purchased from tackle dealers. 
 
 For tournament use, where more accurate 
 measurements are required, egg-shaped fishing 
 floats ij4 inches long can be used to mark 
 every foot between the five and ten-foot dis- 
 tances. 
 
 Galvanized cable-laid steel wire one-eighth 
 inch In diameter is better than braided cord. 
 Attach all marks to this wire with painted pine 
 plugs. Nails driven through markers and line 
 are unsatisfactory. 
 
 For accuracy bait-casting a target is best. 
 The simplest form may be made as follows: 
 Join two ix4-inch boards in the center, as 
 shown by KK, NN, Fig. 22, and paint them 
 green. At their Intersection attach a six-inch 
 water-tight tin can (W), painted red. Encir- 
 
96 
 
 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 cling this, attach to the four bars a half-Inch 
 water-tight gas-pipe ring (P) 30 inches in di- 
 ameter, painted white. Four staples may be 
 used in making it fast to the bars. Wire will 
 catch the lures. One foot from this circle 
 attach a similar one 4^ feet in diameter, and 
 so on until five are in place. As all parts of the 
 target should be just awash, with only the red 
 bullseye showing distinctly, regulating devices 
 are necessary. Four paint cans attached solidly 
 to the bars underneath will serve, provided they 
 do not leak. If the target floats too high, let 
 a little water into the cans. Screw-top cans, 
 are, for this reason, the handiest form. (See 
 X, Fig. 22.). 
 
 Fig. 22. ^ _ Fig. 
 
 Accuracy Bait-Casting Target. 
 
 23. 
 
 Some clubs have platforms so arranged that 
 the accuracy target may be left afloat under the 
 platform from week to week. Two sides of 
 
EQUIPMENT 97 
 
 the platform are guarded with stakes, while on 
 the ends there are hinged boards, made to turn 
 down and lock, to prevent the target from being 
 floated out and tampered with. It is a very 
 handy arrangement, as a target of this size is 
 awkward to carry to and from a storage place. 
 
 If the target must be carried any distance 
 from where it is to be used, it may be made in 
 sections (Fig. 23), and the segments put to- 
 gether by means of bolts through two of the 
 bars (Z). In this case all ends of the tubes 
 must be capped or plugged, to keep out water. 
 The bullseye and air-tanks may be attached in 
 various ways. 
 
 Under the target W (Fig. 22) attach a large 
 screw-eye, and to this make fast the center of 
 a suitable line. Attach snap-hooks to one part 
 of the line, say 60, 80, and 100 feet from cen- 
 ter of target. If the 60-foot hook is made fast 
 to the ring on the platform, the other end of the 
 line is run through a pulley-block on a float an- 
 chored about no feet from the platform, then 
 back to the platform, where it is belayed. 
 When all contestants have finished casting at 
 60 feet, the 60-foot snap is cast off, the 70-foot 
 snap attached to the ring on the platform, then, 
 by hauling on the other end of the line, the tar- 
 get is moved out to 70 feet, and so on up to 
 
98 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 lOO feet, the longest distance employed In ac- 
 curacy casting. The line is in effect endless. 
 
 In casting at this target, if the lure falls on 
 or within the 30-inch circle, the cast is scored 
 O, or perfect; if it falls within or on the next 
 circle i demerit, and so on. Casts outside the 
 largest circle are of course estimated. For ex- 
 ample, if one scores a total of 50 demerits in 
 fifteen casts — three at each distance, 60, 70, 80, 
 90, and 100 feet — divide it by 15, which gives 
 3 5/15. This, deducted from 100, gives a per- 
 centage of 96 10-15. 
 
 To waterproof braided or twisted lines 
 used on targets, mix equal parts by weights of 
 rosin, paraffin, beeswax, and linseed oil, stir 
 well over a slow fire, and while very hot im- 
 merse the line in the solution for ten minutes. 
 Wet a cloth, wring It out, and holding It In one 
 hand over the mixture, draw the line through 
 the cloth, stripping off all the surplus wax. Let 
 the line cool and dry for a day or two before 
 using. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 FLY-CASTING CONTESTS 
 
 THERE Is an old saying among the ang- 
 lers that it is easier to tell another per- 
 son how to cast properly than to do the 
 thing yourself. This, then, is my excuse for at- 
 tempting to write of tournament casting; for I 
 have practiced this amusement for less than fif- 
 teen years, and am just beginning to learn. But 
 so many persons have asked me to tell them 
 how I manage to cast lOO feet and more with 
 a five-ounce rod that it is possible some notes 
 on this subject may interest other anglers, too. 
 One of these inquirers told me — ^just what 
 many old anglers have admitted — that he has 
 fished for years, yet cannot cast more than sixty 
 feet. Generally anglers think their rods and 
 lines are not of the right sort, but it is human 
 nature to overlook the real reason for lack of 
 success In accomplishing the thing desired. 
 
 Practice casting with the fly-rod — or tourna- 
 ment casting, as It is generally called, to dis- 
 tinguish It from fishing — is good fun In season 
 
 99 
 
100 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 and out, but In addition to this, it is a great edu- 
 cator. One may be a successful fisherman for 
 years without learning how to cast properly. 
 He may adopt a style that Is all wrong when It 
 Is just as easy to start right, as those do who 
 are coached by expert casters until they acquire 
 the knack of casting correctly. And after they 
 have practiced a bit, they step Into the trout 
 stream with confidence In their rods and in 
 themselves. 
 
 Tournament casting contests have been criti- 
 cized severely by men who have not gone In for 
 this sort of amusement on the ground that it Is 
 not fishing, and that the rods, reels, and lines 
 used are not such as are commonly used in fish- 
 ing. This Is mainly true; but still it Is notice- 
 able that every veteran fisherman who takes up 
 casting becomes an enthusiast. A number of 
 these veterans have told me that they learned 
 more In one season on the platform than they 
 had acquired In all the years they had been 
 fishermen. And while I do not deny that many 
 of the tools used In casting are made for that 
 purpose, and are never taken to the stream, I 
 do claim that every tournament rod, reel, and 
 line can be used successfully In fishing in one 
 place or another In this great country of ours. 
 The tournament salmon rod Is an excellent 
 
FLY-CASTING CONTESTS 101 
 
 fishing rod; the heavy single-hand rod is used 
 for grilse fishing — and more and more men are 
 every year admitting that it Is not necessary to 
 swing a great English two-handed rod over 
 salmon when they may be and are taken with 
 ordinary medium to light weight trout rods; 
 the five-ounce tournament rod is a favorite 
 trout rod for large streams everywhere; and 
 finally, the four-ounce tournament rod Is one 
 of the best dry-fly trout fishing rods that has 
 been produced anywhere. 
 
 Aside from the practice in the company of 
 good fellows who can and do make special ef- 
 forts to assist one, to a fisherman the mingling 
 with congenial spirits is an important part of 
 club practice and contests. You may live In a vil- 
 lage all your life and not know half the anglers 
 there, but let some one start a casting club, and 
 you will make the acquaintance of all the good 
 fishermen roundabout, and form many lasting 
 friendships at its meetings. 
 
 Take, for example, a tournament held in the 
 autumn — one in which representatives of sev- 
 eral casting clubs are contestants. On such oc- 
 casions men are present who have just returned 
 from fishing, and the discussions that arise 
 their opinions are worth listening to. In the 
 little visits that one has with them between con- 
 
102 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 tests, he is sure to learn something new and 
 worth while In reference to fishing; for the ang- 
 ler, It must be conceded, never grows too old to 
 learn. 
 
 At every casting tournament that I have 
 attended — and I am sure that they were repre- 
 sentative ones — half of those present were not 
 contestants, but anglers who were drawn to 
 those affairs because of the excellent opportun- 
 ity offered to " talk fishing " with their fellows. 
 In other words, to pick up Information; to ex- 
 change ideas; to arrange future excursions to 
 waters near or far. I know dozens of these 
 men, who never cast, yet who are regular at- 
 tendants, and mighty good judges of casting 
 and of rods and tackle as well. And they claim 
 that they learn something at every visit. 
 
 This defense of casting as a sport or game is 
 made because it is sometimes ridiculed by those 
 who have never considered the matter in the 
 proper light, yet who would probably admit 
 that, in order to become an expert game shot, 
 it is necessary for one to practice at the target. 
 You can hunt game with the rifle, and fish for 
 frout with the fly-rod, without practice, but In 
 both instances horse sense will show that it is 
 better to attain proficiency through practice 
 than to chuck and chance it without. 
 
FLY-CASTING CONTESTS 103 
 
 I will now attempt to give the beginner at fly- 
 fishing a few hints as to casting with ordinary 
 fishing tackle, leaving tournament casting for 
 discussion farther on. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 FLY-FISHING PRACTICE 
 
 THE best place to practice is on a pond or 
 pool where a little point juts out from 
 the shore, affording a clear space be- 
 fore and behind you, so that your line will not 
 foul trees or bushes. Lacking this, erect a little 
 platform from which to cast. Secure some 
 planks or boards, then drive two stakes as far 
 out as your boards will reach, nailing a strong 
 cross-piece to them and making the ends of the 
 boards fast to this. A second support nearer 
 shore will be needed, to prevent the planks 
 from springing too much. The width of the 
 platform depends upon your own energy; two 
 planks will serve, though six will be better. 
 
 The height may be only sufficient to clear the 
 water. The regulation height for tournament 
 platforms is eighteen inches above the water. 
 This is all right for bait-casting, but for fly- 
 casting it is an open question whether height is 
 an advantage. I for one do not believe that it 
 is. In distance casting the rod and line are kept 
 
 104 
 
FLY CASTING PRACTICE 105 
 
 at a considerable distance above the line of the 
 caster's middle during the longest part of a 
 cast. Control of the line is greatest when it is 
 above the waist. Therefore, in my humble 
 opinion, the nearer one stands to the water 
 level, the better will be his control of the line. 
 
 If possible, cast along the shore, so that the 
 floating marks may be placed at known dis- 
 tances, to inform you as to the progress you 
 make; or so that some friend may tell you how 
 far or how accurate are your casts. 
 
 Joint up your rod, attach the reel and thread 
 the line through the guides and top. Attach a 
 leader of ordinary length to the line, and put 
 on an old fly with the hook cut off at the bend. 
 A fairly heavy leader is best, and this should 
 be well soaked and straightened. 
 
 It is conceded that a tapered line is em- 
 ployed, as this is the proper sort for fishing. 
 The best size is E, but If the rod be powerful, 
 with plenty of backbone, a D line may fit It 
 better. By " fit " is meant that the weight of 
 the heavier line will cause the rod to spring 
 forward and back nicely when under perfect 
 control of the wrist, and not compel you to 
 put Into the cast the full-arm motion that is so 
 often seen, yet which Is both unnecessary and 
 fatiguing. Let the rod do the work. 
 
106 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Now, with the rod in the right and the line 
 In the left hand, extend the line thirty feet; then 
 draw It toward you gently until it straightens, 
 and lift It quickly and cleanly, employing the 
 wrist only, the arm resting against your side. 
 The lift, retrieve, or recovery then steadies until 
 the rod reaches the vertical position. Stop It 
 there, for its work In retrieving ends at that 
 point, and every degree it extends behind will 
 detract materially from clean casting. Wait 
 much longer than you ever did before on the 
 back cast, then bring the rod forward with an 
 even swing, and stop It dead just before It 
 reaches the horizontal, at the same time letting 
 a couple of yards of line run through the 
 guides. 
 
 Try again, timing the cast and retrieve i, 2; 
 and the back cast 3, 4, 5, 6. Let a little more 
 line out, and make a third essay, then strip in 
 and rest. In stripping, or pulling, the line 
 through the guides, always hold the tip of the 
 rod down. Stripping with the rod held well up 
 will soon ruin any line, as the latter Is bent 
 too much In passing through the top ring. This 
 causes excessive wear and is unnecessary. 
 
 As you let more line out, you will notice that 
 the rod works better — not stiffly, but like a 
 flexible steel spring, the line seeming to be a 
 
FLY-CASTING PRACTICE 107 
 
 part of it. This is as it should be. You will 
 also notice that when you retrieve smartly, stop 
 the rod overhead, wait patiently until the line 
 pulls hard behind you, then make the for- 
 ward cast without any snap at all — you will 
 notice, I say, that considerably more line runs 
 through your left hand, and that it Hes out 
 straight on the water without splash. 
 
 Remember that in fishing for trout that are 
 shy, the less you disturb the water the better. 
 Hence the value of learning to shoot the line 
 instead of extending it by a series of casts, 
 any one of which may frighten away your fish. 
 *' Shooting" means the jump the line makes at 
 the end of the forward cast when the back 
 cast is high up and properly timed. 
 
 Do not try to work out too far. It is better 
 to work out in two or three casts, followed by 
 a shoot, then strip in and begin over again. 
 If you try repeatedly to lift all the line you can 
 get out, you will only tire your wrist and make 
 slovenly work of it. 
 
 Try again, but give attention to the left hand 
 now. In the forward cast extend the left hand 
 the right foot forward. At the end of the cast, 
 and just before you begin to lift, pull in the line 
 smartly until the left hand rests against the 
 body. This will straighten the line on the 
 
108 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 water, and put it In motion to lift. This is 
 a very important thing, for the full power of 
 lifting is attained in this way, instead of wast- 
 ing one-third of the retrieve in straightening 
 a slack line. 
 
 No body motion is needed in cast or re- 
 trieve, though the involuntary slight bending 
 forward and backward is not objectionable. 
 The right arm from the elbow up might as well 
 be tied against the side, for its function is 
 merely to steady the wrist. The thumb per- 
 forms an important function, too. Do not 
 grasp the rod as you would an umbrella handle 
 — as some anglers do — but keep the thumb 
 parallel with the grasp. In this position the 
 thumb helps materially in stopping the rod at 
 the end of the back cast, and in keeping the 
 rod at the proper angle. Do not cant the rod 
 toward the right, but retrieve and cast straight 
 over the right shoulder. This makes for ac- 
 curacy. 
 
 Of course the side cast should be practiced, 
 too, for there are places where the overhead 
 cast cannot be employed, as in wading along 
 a shore overhung with low growth. Later on 
 it will be well to practice casting with the left 
 hand. There are many times when one must 
 use the right hand to help himself over or 
 
FLY-CASTING PRACTICE 109 
 
 around difficult places, and when that hand tires 
 it is a comfort to shift the work to the left 
 hand. But the overhead cast is the proper 
 one to master first, then the others will be 
 learned quickly. 
 
 In making a fishing cast hold the left hand 
 rigid; or, as some do, hook the second finger 
 of the right hand over the line, so that it may- 
 be kept taut and under perfect control, else the 
 fly will be snapped back or the line will lay 
 out slack with a splash. The same thing may 
 occur in a shoot if too much Hne is let out, 
 or if it is checked abruptly. 
 
 It Is difficult to learn to shoot the line until 
 you have succeded in casting forty or fifty feet. 
 The reason for this is that you do not get out 
 enough of the belly of the line to act as a 
 weight, which, on being projected by the spring 
 of the rod, shoots forward in a rolling loop, 
 as shown in Fig. 24, pulling several feet of 
 
 Fig. 24.— Rolling Loop of Line at End of Forward Cast 
 line with it. In order to fix in your mind just 
 how this is done, ask a companion to take hold 
 
110 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 of the fly, and walking alongshore, say fifty 
 feet, release It at the word, when you begin to 
 retrieve. If the back cast Is given plenty of 
 time, the line will go forward with enough 
 force to pull ten or more feet of line through 
 the guides, and shoot the fly considerably 
 farther than you had before been able to cast 
 It. From this you will also understand that It 
 Is the resistance of the water on the line in 
 retrieving that brings out the full spring of 
 the rod. As a result the line Is thrown high 
 up behind you in a loop just the reverse of that 
 shown In Fig. 24. The common error Is to 
 carry the rod too far back (Fig. 25), the line 
 
 Fig. 25. — Back Cast in Which the Line Strikes the Water 
 Behind. 
 
 touching or lying out on the water behind you, 
 making " sloppy work " of the next forward 
 cast. 
 
 Carrying the rod too far back is generally 
 followed by starting the forward cast too soon. 
 The line is not given time to straighten behind. 
 When the forward cast is started with the 
 
FLY-CASTING PRACTICE 111 
 
 fly In position indicated in Fig. 25, the line 
 straightens with a whip-like snap, and often 
 the fly is cut off. But when the rod Is stopped 
 correctly, the line is thrown back high up, and 
 Fig. 26 illustrates its position when plenty of 
 
 Fig. 26. — Position of Line and Fly at end of Back Cast. 
 time has been given to let the line and leader 
 turn over and begin to fall — the proper mo- 
 ment to start the forward cast. The line will 
 then roll out cleanly and alight softly. Fig. 
 27 shows how the line looks at the middle of 
 the forward cast, the fly passing over your 
 head. 
 
 Fig. 27. — Forward Cast. 
 Granted that it is not often that you will 
 
112 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 have occasion to make fishing casts of more than 
 forty or fifty feet, it Is nevertheless well to be 
 able to cast farther than that. For every ten 
 feet that you increase your average distance, 
 the difficulty of manipulating rod, line, and fly 
 cleanly will increase. To master these obstacles 
 and gain confidence in yourself and your tackle 
 Is worth a great deal more to you, even though 
 you may never need to cast more than forty 
 feet In your fishing. Perfect mastery of a long 
 line counts when you fish under trees, for if 
 you can control a long line In the open. It will 
 be easier to manipulate a short line without get- 
 ting " hung up." Therefore, practice diligently. 
 And as it Is a great advantage to know If 
 you are progressing, rig up a line by means of 
 which you can measure your casts roughly, and 
 at the same time aim for precision. Three 
 wooden disks each six Inches In diameter will 
 serve. Coat them with enamel, so they will 
 show more plainly In the water than If painted. 
 Make them red, white, and blue, respectively. 
 Take an old fishing line and measuring off fifty 
 feet, tie on a bit of red string. Ten feet farther 
 attach a piece of white string, for sixty feet; 
 and blue string at the seventy-foot mark. Wind 
 the line on an old reel, making the platform 
 end fast to the axle. In use, reel off the line, 
 
FLY-CASTING PRACTICE 113 
 
 tie the disks on at the proper places, and stretch 
 the line from platform to shore, or anchor the 
 outer end with a stone. Besides helping you in 
 distance work, the disks will be excellent marks 
 for accuracy casting. 
 
 With any good fly-rod you can cast seventy 
 feet or more If you will keep in mind constantly 
 the principal points: straighten the line with 
 the left hand, lift quickly, stop the rod over- 
 head, give the back cast plenty of time, and 
 carry the forward cast through steadily with- 
 out the common but objectionable snap at the 
 end. Practice will do the rest, but If you cast 
 in company with other anglers, ask one of them 
 to assist you In timing the back cast. If he will 
 tell you when you carry the rod too far back, 
 and you will wait with the back cast until he 
 says, " Now," you will soon succeed In correct- 
 ing your faults and In increasing your distance. 
 At the same time you will have acquired confi- 
 dence in yourself and your tackle. 
 
 Besides the overhead cast and the side cast, 
 which is only a modification of the former, it 
 will be worth while to learn the switch cast. 
 In fishing it is often Impossible to employ the 
 back cast, because of a high bank or trees be- 
 hind you. The switch cast overcomes these 
 difiiculties. Learn it by all means. 
 
114 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Make a cast, and instead of lifting the line, 
 carry the rod up slowly to the vertical, then 
 go forward and downward with speed and 
 force. The line will be pulled toward you on 
 the water until the fly Is say fifteen feet distant, 
 then projected forward with a snap that will 
 carry the fly clear of the water, to alight cleanly 
 farther and farther at every cast. The style 
 Is just the reverse of ordinary casting. Retrieve 
 slowly, cast quickly, and repeat until the desired 
 distance is attained. At no time need rod, line, 
 or fly pass more than three feet behind you. 
 
 Dry-fly casting Is so fascinating and so use- 
 ful that every angler should practice It. It 
 differs in style from wet-fly casting In that the 
 water Is not touched by fly or line until sufficient 
 distance has been attained to place the fly at a 
 certain point. Start with a short line and cast 
 up and out, back and forward, letting a little 
 line out with each false cast, until suflicient line 
 Is out, then cast lightly on the water and let 
 the fly float. Retrieve very gently, and make 
 several false casts, to dry the fly and extend the 
 line, before making another fishing cast. The 
 back and forward casts are both made In about 
 equal time, and care is taken to prevent the fly 
 from touching the water on the retrieve. It 
 will assist you If you will use your disks as 
 
FLY-CASTING PRACTICE 115 
 
 targets. Start with the line the length of the 
 rod, making several false casts, then a scoring 
 cast at the first mark; three or four dry casts, 
 then score at the second mark, and so on. This 
 Is pretty work, and good fishing practice. 
 
 Five targets are used In dry-fly accuracy con- 
 tests, each one a thirty-Inch circle. Wooden 
 barrel hoops attached to a line will serve. The 
 standard distances for light rods are 20, 27)^, 
 355 42^, and 50 feet. Three scoring casts 
 are made at each target, with at least one false 
 cast In between. A cast Inside the circle counts 
 o, or perfect; within one foot of the circle, i 
 demerit; within two feet, 2 demerits, and so on; 
 If the fly falls to float, i additional demerit. 
 If you score 60 demerits, divide 60 by 15, the 
 number of casts, giving 4; deducting 4 from 
 100 gives the percentage, 96. 
 
 A few words regarding rods may not be 
 out of place here. For all-round trout fishing 
 a rod of five or six ounces Is perhaps best, and 
 the favorite length Is 9 or 9 J^ feet; but quicker 
 rods are now used than formerly, though it Is 
 possible to carry stiffness to extremes. There 
 are few prettier rods to fish the fly with than 
 those having slow action, and although the stlf- 
 fer rods are better for windward work and for 
 fishing the floating fly. If you can have only one 
 
116 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 rod, see that it has good action clear down to 
 the hand. 
 
 The five-ounce tournament rod is a splendid 
 one for heavy streams not much overgrown, 
 but as these rods are generally ten feet long, 
 they are not so handy for brooks as the three- 
 and four-ounce rods of 8 or 9 feet. For dry-fly 
 work the four-ounce, 9-foot tournament rod is 
 ideal. It works best with a tapered D line. 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 TOURNAMENT LINES 
 
 THE fishing practice casting of which I 
 have written leads naturally to tourna- 
 ment casting; or, in other words, to 
 competition, between two friends, it may be, 
 or among members of a fishing club. When 
 two persons practice together a third frequently 
 puts in appearance, and ere long the fascination 
 of the pastime is discussed, with the result that 
 a club springs into being. No costly equipment 
 or grounds being necessary, it is not difficult 
 to find a pond or pool suitable for practice, 
 and plenty of willing hands to put together 
 platform, marking line, and targets. 
 
 Fishing rods are used at first, and then one 
 by one the members procure tournament rods 
 and lines. As in all other games, the rules 
 being liberal enough to admit anything with- 
 in reason, it follows that no one wishes to be 
 outclassed If good tackle will prevent it. 
 
 In distance trout fly-casting, rods of several 
 types are recognized. The so-called heavy rod 
 117 
 
118 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Is limited only as to length — ii^ feet; but 
 it must of course be held in one hand only. 
 This is the most popular rod. Its weight ranges 
 from 9 to 13 ounces, the average being about 
 10 ounces. 
 
 The five-ounce rod comes next. If it has a 
 metal reel-seat it may weigh just under 5^ 
 ounces. There is no restriction as to length, 
 but 10 feet is the popular maximum length. 
 This is the " most rod " of any, for its ounces. 
 The fittings are made light, so that all possible 
 weight may be put into the cane. It is used 
 more and more every year, both for fishing and 
 contest casting. It is used for wet-fly distance; 
 for dry-fly distance; for dry-fly accuracy; and 
 for wet-fly accuracy. 
 
 The 4^4 -ounce rod — a distinctively Eastern 
 rod — is coming into more general use. Perhaps 
 It will be the all-round rod of the future. Nine 
 feet Is the popular length, and so powerful Is 
 this little rod that it is frequently called upon 
 to handle the very heavy lines suited to 10- 
 ounce rods — lines that weigh almost half as 
 much as the rod. So far this rod has been 
 used only In wet-fly distance casting, and in dry- 
 and wet-fly trout fishing. 
 
 Several years ago the National Association 
 was asked to, and did pass, a rule limiting the 
 
TOURNAMENT LINES 119 
 
 salmon rod length to 15 feet. The object was 
 to fix on a reasonable length, and to encourage 
 salmon anglers to use thejr fishing rods in 
 contests. Until then one could go into a salmon 
 event with a bean pole, if he cared to, or use 
 one of the ridiculous 18- or 20- foot EngHsh 
 rods, weighing several pounds. That the 15- 
 foot rule is a good one has been proved on 
 several occasions, when casters have, with rods 
 of this length, exceeded the best records ever 
 made by Britishers with rods of any length. 
 In fact, our cousins across the water have 
 never made much of a showing in distance fly- 
 casting. Perhaps this accounts for the efforts 
 some of them make to poke fun at our tourna- 
 ment fly-rods. 
 
 That salmon casting is not a giant's game 
 Is shown by the excellent records made by men 
 far under the average in height and weight. 
 But salmon rods are costly, and few individuals 
 care to purchase rods solely for use in two or 
 three contests yearly. Where clubs furnish these 
 rods, however, as some do, the contests are 
 always well patronized. These rods weigh 
 from 24 to 28 ounces. 
 
 The five-ounce rod being an excellent one to 
 start with, let us see what you can do with it. 
 
 The first thing to be provided is a line. You 
 
120 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 can cast during your novitiate with a regular 
 double tapered line, but there is something 
 better. The fishing line is thirty yards long. 
 As the taper on each end is from twelve to eigh- 
 teen feet, the total length must be made up by 
 a level middle, or belly. With a line of this 
 sort you can work out just so far, and there you 
 are stopped because the belly of the line is too 
 heavy to shoot. 
 
 The logical thing to do is to cut the line, 
 splice a length of small level line on to the belly, 
 for a back (or shooting) line, and make the 
 front taper longer, by splicing a few feet of level 
 line on the end. 
 
 So far, so good; but what must be the propor- 
 tions of leader, taper, belly, back line? you ask. 
 If I knew just how far you could cast three 
 times out of four, I could give you exact form- 
 ulae; but as I do not, the only thing left is to 
 strike an average. In handicapping contestants 
 It is customary in some clubs to place one who 
 has no record in the seventy-five foot class; 
 that is, on the safe assumption that he will cast 
 that far, at least, with a little practice. Make 
 up a line based on that rule. 
 
 With this line you can work out until the 
 rear end of the belly is in your hand or on the 
 rod, but not farther up than the middle joint. 
 When that point is reached you must either 
 
TOURNAMENT LINES 121 
 
 shoot or strip in, for you cannot lift the line 
 if the belly runs off the rod. You measure, then, 
 from where you stand to the sixty-five-foot 
 mark, thus allowing ten feet on the safe side of 
 seventy-five feet. 
 
 We will say that the leader is to be six feet 
 long, for a starter. Twenty-five feet is a good 
 length for the front taper. The proportions 
 are, then: 
 
 Leader 6 feet 
 
 Front taper 25 feet 
 
 Belly 34 feet 
 
 65 feet 
 
 This is the key to an endless number of com- 
 binations that you may work out as you become 
 more proficient — measure from where you stand 
 to the point where you can cast regularly. If 
 you increase the length of the taper, decrease 
 the length of the belly, and vice versa ; it being 
 understood, of course, that you will add to 
 the length of one or both as your skill is aug- 
 mented. But as thirty-five yards is a good 
 length, add forty feet of fine level line to your 
 casting line. 
 
 If you know how long each taper of your 
 fishing line is, you will be able to splice a piece 
 on one end long enough to make that taper 
 twenty-five feet. If not, try a piece ten feet 
 
122 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 long, then measure back sixty-five feet, cut the 
 line there and splice on the back line, which 
 should be a good piece of level dressed line, 
 But as you will soon " out-grow" this first line, 
 do not cut up a good fishing line, but purchase 
 a regulation tournament line or make up one 
 from several lengths of the proper sizes. 
 
 The tournament lines are made in various 
 ways, but two of the most frequently used are 
 like this: One tapers up almost the full length 
 to the center, then tapers down to the other 
 end; the other has a long front taper, a belly 
 ranging from twenty to fifty feet, then tapers 
 down rapidly to a thin, level back line. This 
 type of line has proved to be the best one for 
 distance casting. 
 
 If you are fond of experimenting, make up 
 a line from pieces of level dressed line, which 
 you can purchase in twenty-five-yard lengths, 
 splicing the various pieces together. In this it 
 is of course desirable to make few splices, hence 
 the tapers will not be nicely graduated, but 
 this will not greatly matter in practice. If the 
 thirty-four-foot belly Is size B, splice fifteen feet 
 of D on the front end, and a ten-foot length 
 of F on D. Then on the back end of the belly 
 splice on five feet of D and the forty-foot back 
 line. Four splices only will be needed, as 
 
TOURNAMENT LINES 123 
 
 against twice as many if the tapers be graduated 
 nicely. 
 
 In making splices, fray out the ends to be 
 joined, using a needle or any pointed instrument. 
 Pick the strands apart carefully for three- 
 quarters of an inch, then separate them into 
 two equal parts as shown in Fig. 28. Join 
 
 Fig. 28. — Frayed Ends of Une Ready for Splicing. 
 the pieces, but do not push them together tight, 
 as a hard, thick splice will be the result. The 
 four ends will overlap sufficiently to make a 
 splice that will not pull apart. 
 
 Wax a length of silk thread, and commencing 
 at the center of the splice, secure one end of 
 the thread against slipping (Fig. 29) while you 
 
 ■lii^ 
 
 Fig. 29. — ^Winding the Splice. 
 
 Wind one-half of the splice with the other. 
 
124 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 When the frayed ends of the line are covered, 
 lay a loop of thread along the line, wind over 
 loop a half-dozen turns, then pull end of silk 
 wnder and wind the opposite end in the same 
 fashion. Roll the finished splice under a ruler, 
 to make it smooth, and apply two coats of 
 shellac. A splice of this sort will last a long 
 time if shellacked when it shows signs of wear. 
 It is smooth, and with practice you will be able 
 to make it almost as small as the line itself. 
 
 In casting a spliced line will last a long 
 time if you do not strip in line while the rod 
 is held upright. Always keep the rod down in 
 stripping. Otherwise the waterproof dressing 
 will be damaged at the rod top every time 
 the line is pulled sharply enough to bend it at 
 an angle. 
 
 If you find that the taper of your spliced 
 line is not what it should be, in your opinion, 
 you can take the line apart and change it until 
 It suits you; or if the front end becomes worn, 
 discard a section and put in a new one, make 
 the taper longer or shorter, etc. Splices are 
 not difficult to make, but if you have a fly-tyer's 
 vise It is advisable to use it In holding the line. 
 Better winding will result. 
 
 For splicing, and for all rod and tackle re- 
 pairs, a bit of wax Is a necessity. It Is easily 
 
TOURNAMENT LINES 125 
 
 made, as follows: Melt together over a slow 
 fire in a small tin dish or cup, one ounce of 
 rosin and twenty grains of beeswax. Stir with 
 a stick, then add sixty grains of fresh, unsalted 
 lard, or lacking this, an equal quantity of mut- 
 ton tallow. Stir for several minutes, then pour 
 the mixture into a basin of cold water. Rub a 
 little vaseline on your fingers, to prevent the wax 
 from sticking to them at first, take it out of 
 the water and pull and work It until It becomes 
 cream color, then put It In a piece of chamois 
 skin, and It Is ready for use. 
 
 Theodore Gordon, who has had a very wide 
 experience In fishing and fly-tying, has given 
 me the following recipe for silk wax. I have 
 found it excellent. The variations are for 
 different seasons: 
 
 No. I. Rosin 2 ounces, lard J4 ounce, 
 paraffin wax i drachm. 
 
 No. 2. Rosin 2 ounces, paraffin wax }i- 
 ounce, lard i drachm. 
 
 No. 3. Rosin 2 ounces, paraffin wax J4- 
 ounce, lard 2 scruples. 
 
 No. 4. Rosin 2 ounces, paraffin wax J^- 
 ounce, lard J^ -drachm. 
 
 Work while under cold water and wrap in 
 chamois skin. 
 
 Do not wind your spliced line — or any other 
 
126 
 
 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 — on a fishing reel, but use something larger. 
 In tournament casting a great many anglers 
 use a " reel " (Fig. 30) turned from a piece of 
 
 Fig. 30. — Reel for Tournament Fly Lines. 
 Any wood worker can turn this from a piece of poplar 
 or white pine. Its diameter is 9 inches; thickness, i inch; 
 width of rim, i^ inches; depth of groove, ^ inch; width 
 of groove, ^ inch. It will hold any fly line. Protect it 
 from warping and checking with two coats of shellac. A 
 loop of cord is attached to end of line, then looped over 
 the loop, pulled taut, then the casting line rolled on. 
 
 I- or I ^ -Inch white pine or poplar. This is 
 simply a disk seven or eight Inches In diameter 
 with a groove cut in Its edge and the center 
 cut out, leaving a sort of grooved hoop. It 
 will hold a large quantity of the heaviest line. 
 With It the line Is reeled In very rapidly. Its 
 principal advantage Is that Its diameter being 
 large, the line Is not cramped, but comes off 
 
TOURNAMENT LINES 127 
 
 straight and runs through the guides like a lead 
 wire. 
 
 The chief fault with these wooden reels is 
 that they split readily if dropped. In casting 
 about for something as light but stronger I hit 
 on the following plan. 
 
 Two pieces of sheet aluminum, 7x7x11/16- 
 Inches were purchased. On each one I scribed 
 two circles, one 7 inches, the other 5^^ Inches 
 in diameter. They were easily cut out with a 
 hacksaw, the inner edges smoothed with file 
 and emery cloth, the outer edges with a very 
 small plane. Two feet of thin brass tubing, 
 and three feet of soft brass wire just the size 
 to fit the tubing were then procured. The tub- 
 ing was sawed into J4-Inch lengths, and the 
 wire into ^-inch lengths. I then marked the 
 Inner edge of one of the aluminum circlets in 
 sixteen places, evenly spaced, and clamping them 
 together in a vise, bored holes through both at 
 the marks, and just far enough away from the 
 edge so that the rivets would not pull out. 
 
 Taking the circlets out of the vise, they were 
 placed, one on each end of a piece of tubing, 
 a piece of wire pushed through all, and both 
 ends riveted. This was done all-round, the ends 
 of rivets smoothed off, and I had a reel that is 
 practically indestructible, but which weighs 
 
128 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 about four ounces. Being open on two edges, 
 the line dries nicely on the reel, and it will hold 
 a great deal of line. By the use of the pieces 
 of tubing and wire I was saved the labor of 
 making rivets from solid wire, but the reel Is 
 strong and neat, and I have several of them 
 that have seen hard use for a number of years. 
 They are made to fit one within the other. 
 
 After using these reels for somic time, 
 William Mills & Son asked permission to copy 
 them, and they put out reels that are of course 
 far superior to mine, as theirs are made from 
 spun aluminum, practically in one piece. They 
 are made up in sets of two or three, one fitting 
 within the other. 
 
 In stringing up the rod. In casting, the reel 
 Is placed on the platform. The line is unrolled 
 from the reel as one would do with a tape 
 measure but never pulled off in coils, as this 
 would snarl It. 
 
 The calibers of fishing lines, as made by the 
 different firms, are almost hopelessly confused. 
 Some firms use what seems to be the original 
 method — of employing the first nine letters of 
 the alphabet — and others use nine figures. Then 
 some reverse the order, so that a No. 6 line, say, 
 Is larger than a No. i. Then again lines are 
 numbered arbitrarily, so that a No. 3 and a 
 
Photograph by George A. Irwtn 
 
 Bait- Casting for Bass in Florida 
 
TOURNAMENT LINES 129 
 
 No. 269 are alike in caliber but different in style 
 of braiding or finish. 
 
 An interesting paragraph on the subject of 
 line calibers was given by Theophilus South 
 in his " Fly-Fishers' Textbook,'* (London, 
 1841), as follows: 
 
 ^'Salmon Reel Lines. — Now, as to these, they 
 should be from sixty to eighty yards long — 
 you require the latter length especially where 
 salmon incline to run much, and from your con- 
 tiguity to trees or bushes on the bank, you can- 
 not follow him or change your position. Another 
 advantage Is that as the end which is so much 
 on the water and so constantly passing through 
 the rings of the rod in shortening and lengthen- 
 ing your throw can never be depended on for 
 soundness above one season at most, removing 
 the damaged part, sufficient length still remains 
 for ordinary rivers and places, while a joint or 
 splice in the line should always be avoided, if 
 feasible. 
 
 " The material, I repeat, should be silk and 
 hair twisted, and the end, for about twelve 
 yards, may taper slightly; though perhaps it is 
 as well to have It of uniform substance through- 
 out, of about the thickness of the 'D ' in the 
 third octave of your sister's harp (to measure 
 which, borrow her string gauge), or thinner 
 
130 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 than a new shilling, which is strong enough for 
 any salmon anywhere, provided it is used skil- 
 fully. Many old and experienced salmon fishers 
 adopt much stouter, yet I prefer fine fishing, and 
 am ready, for a wager to kill any fish under fifty 
 pounds in a tolerable situation with the sub- 
 stance I allude to. It will bear at least eighteen 
 pounds dead weight, and perhaps more. 
 
 " Trout reel lines should be of the same ma- 
 terial; namely, twisted hair and silk, but nec- 
 essarily much thinner, and from thirty to fifty 
 yards in length, or even longer for lake fishing, 
 where heavy trout are expected. However, 
 thirty yards Is quite enough for a light trout 
 rod. They must taper gradually for the last 
 eight or ten yards to the end, where, in sub- 
 stance, they should not exceed the first * D ' on 
 the aforesaid harp guage, or very thick netting 
 silk, while the stouter end should be about equal 
 to the second ' D '." 
 
 For a number of years I have been collecting 
 data on the subject of line calibers, and in my 
 own work I follow these sizes: 
 
 Number Inch Number Inch 
 
 No. 2 or o/o 065 E 038 
 
 A 060 F 034 
 
 B 056 G 030 
 
 C 052 H 026 
 
 D 04S I 021 
 
TOURNAMENT LINES 131 
 
 These sizes have been compared with those 
 employed by a very large number of British, 
 Scotch, and American makers and dealers. The 
 average variation is so slight that they have 
 been found very satisfactory. 
 
 To assist those who do not possess microme- 
 ter calipers, but have access to the standard wire 
 guage, the following table may be of interest. 
 It Is that adopted by Brown & Sharpe, and Is 
 known as the American wire guage. 
 
 Number Inch Number Inch 
 
 14 064 20 031 
 
 15 057 21 028 
 
 16 050 22 025 
 
 17 045 23 022 
 
 18 040 24 020 
 
 19 035 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 TOURNAMENT FLY-CASTING 
 
 NOW we are ready to commence casting. 
 String up the five-ounce rod, but place 
 the reel behind you on the platform at 
 your left, and after unreeling all the line, coil 
 it back, so that it will render freely through 
 your left hand and the guides. Stand with your 
 right foot forward, and make it a habit to move 
 your feet only when necessary, and then with 
 due care for the line on the platform. It is an 
 old joke with casters that a line will not shoot 
 well when you are standing on it! 
 
 Make a couple of casts, working the line out 
 thirty or forty feet. In the next cast lift the 
 line smartly the instant that it touches the water, 
 giving It no time to " drown.'' The left hand 
 assists at the same time by straightening the 
 line on the water, so that It Is moving toward 
 you as you begin to retrieve. These are very 
 important first steps, and should be practiced 
 diligently. Keep In mind the fact that by pull- 
 
 132 
 
TOURNAMENT FLY-CASTING 133 
 
 ing the line in with the left hand you put the full 
 strength of the rod into lifting a tight line. Re- 
 member, too, that you cannot lift a long line 
 if you wait until It sinks, or drowns. 
 
 In picking up quickly and in stopping the rod 
 when it reaches the vertical, you will be able to 
 keep the line high up in the back cast, and this 
 will give the line plenty of time to straighten 
 and go forward without touching anything The 
 higher the back cast, the more time you can 
 give it — and you will seldom wait too long. 
 When the line pulls hard, start the forward 
 cast, carrying It through steadily but without 
 snap, stopping the rod just above the horizontal. 
 At the same time let a little line run through 
 the guides. Then pull in, lift with a vim, and 
 wait patiently for the pull behind. On the next 
 cast, If you feel the small line In your hand, let 
 the line run, and do not retrieve. We will call 
 this a scoring cast. 
 
 In shortening line you can strip In several 
 yards, then lift, but In a contest this wastes 
 time, and when you have only five or eight min- 
 utes In which to do your best casting, every sec- 
 ond Is valuable. Therefore, strip In ten or fif- 
 teen feet, then make a strong switch cast, fol- 
 lowed by a quick lift. If the cast that follows 
 be a good one, and the line pulls nicely in the 
 
134, FISHING TACKLE 
 
 back cast, shoot for a scoring cast. Do not 
 hurry, take plenty of time, but do not waste 
 any of it trying to lift too much line. It is bet- 
 ter policy to try to make one scoring cast per 
 minute. The fault most common to casters is 
 too great haste. While the switch cast helps 
 materially in " getting under '' a long line, it 
 should be practiced often, for it tires the wrist 
 very much more than does the overhead cast. 
 
 In tournament casting it Is necessary to de- 
 part from your fishing style and put the entire 
 arm into service. In the forward cast you bend 
 forward slightly and carry the right arm as far 
 out as possible. Then in retrieving straighten 
 up, pull in all the line you can manage with the 
 left hand, and carry the right hand high above 
 you, but not far enough to let the rod go back 
 more than five degrees beyond the vertical. It 
 will of course spring back with the line, but ask 
 a friend to coach you, to assist you In learning 
 the difficult feat of stopping the rod as It must 
 be stopped If you are to become a distance 
 caster. It Is very difficult to do this, for It puts 
 severe strain on the thumb and wrist, but you 
 will see the advantage If you will watch a caster 
 who frequently strikes the tip of his rod on the 
 platform behind him, as some do at first. 
 
 It Is considered very bad form to touch the 
 
TOURNAMENT FLY-CASTING 135 
 
 water on the back cast with line or leader. In 
 addition to this, to touch or strike on the back 
 cast ruins the forward cast, and what Is worse. 
 It Is possible to smash the tip or middle joint of 
 the rod by lifting the line when It drops on the 
 water behind you. 
 
 It will assist you In learning to stop If you will 
 practice with a rod having a long grasp. Push 
 the butt inside your sleeve and cast with rigid 
 arm. Stop arm at the right place and note the 
 difference ; the rod will not go back, It being held 
 by your sleeve. This is not permitted in contests, 
 and It is well to use the rod just as it comes 
 from the maker, but trying this method will do 
 no harm In practice. 
 
 At first you will find the line and leader 
 troublesome. You will tie both In Innumerable 
 knots and end perhaps, in a hopeless tangle. 
 As the loop of the line and the leader pass each 
 other frequently In a series of casts, it Is not re- 
 markable that one should foul the other. The 
 remedy is consistent practice, carrying the rod 
 forward and back straight over the right 
 shoulder. Attempting to lift too much line may 
 snarl It, for sooner or later you will lose control 
 of it, and In the threshing that generally fol- 
 lows, a bad tangle will end the matter. 
 
 Veterans frequently mention the time when, as 
 
136 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 they say, they were consistent in lifting ninety 
 feet of line for every cast of eighty feet! Learn 
 to shoot, as that is the secret of all distant cast- 
 ing. With a properly balanced tournament line 
 It is seldom necessary to lift more than eighty 
 feet of line In order to make a cast of one hun- 
 dred feet, and it Is possible at times to shoot 
 the line much farther than twenty feet. Work 
 out until the small back line Is reached, then hold 
 the line there, wait for a good back cast, and 
 shoot. Strip in and try again. 
 
 One of the chief faults In distance casting 
 Is the putting of too much strength into the for- 
 ward cast. Too many casters try to " slam " the 
 line, and this slam ends with a snap that carries 
 the rod into or near the water, effectually kill- 
 ing the shoot. They have no point of aim, as 
 the archers say. Practice until you can keep this 
 In mind at every cast. Fix your attention on 
 some distant object that appears to be about 
 thirty feet higher than the lOO-foot mark. Aim 
 for that point, and never let the rod tip go 
 below It. If you end the cast with a snap, the 
 tip of the rod vibrates violently at the very In- 
 stant when It should stop dead in order to per- 
 mit the line to slide freely through the guides 
 in the shoot. 
 
 Look at the matter from another angle. 
 
TOURNAMENT FLY-CASTING 137 
 
 It is the perfect back cast that makes for a long 
 shoot, and when the back cast is right, you will 
 be surprised to see how. far you can shoot if 
 you will merely carry the rod forward to the 
 stopping point — " lay it down," as the saying 
 goes. In eight minutes casting time in an event, 
 it is a severe penalty to be compelled to devote 
 five minutes to replacing lost flies — and you are 
 sure to snap the fly oflt if you hurry with the back 
 cast and slam the Tine. Again, let the rod do 
 the work; that is what is was made for. It will 
 lift the heavy line, stop it, and start it going 
 again. Merely keep the line going until gravity 
 stops the farther progress of the belly, and the 
 force that has been properly applied will carry 
 the taper and leader on and out, to turn over in 
 a graceful loop, and lay out straight on the 
 water. 
 
 Hold the line until the rod reaches the stop- 
 ping point, then let it run. Too many casters 
 let go of the line before the completion of the 
 cast. The result is that line and leader fall 
 into a heap, or the leader doubles back. The 
 forward cast with fly- and bait-rod is very much 
 alike. With the latter you carry the cast 
 through steadily, raise the thumb and let the 
 line run out. With the fly-rod you release the 
 line when the belly begins to pull. 
 
138 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 Long tapers are popular for distance cast- 
 ing, but it is not advisable to go to extremes 
 In this matter. In a place where the air is dry, 
 a much longer taper may be used successfully 
 than in places where the air is heavy and humid. 
 Twenty-five feet Is a good length; thirty feet 
 can be managed by the average caster; thirty- 
 five feet will suit one who Is In the ninety-foot 
 class; and forty feet is about all that any caster 
 will be able to master In heavy air. Too often 
 the taper Is slow at the point and quick at the 
 back end — next to the belly. It should be just 
 the reverse, for if it is spun out too fine It will 
 not straighten, particularly If there Is a side 
 wind, or eddying currents of air near the water. 
 
 Experiment with leaders until you are sure 
 that you can always straighten one of a certain 
 length. If this Is twelve feet long, keep an 
 eight-foot leader In reserve for an unfavorable 
 day. The best tapered leaders you can afford 
 are none too good for distance casting. If you 
 cannot straighten a short leader, cut a foot 
 off the line taper and try again. Failing, cut 
 off six Inches more. Go slow with this, and 
 try It on different days before spoiling the 
 taper. 
 
 It IS a common fault to use a line that Is too 
 heavy for the rod. B is heavy enough for the 
 
TOURNAMENT FLY-CASTING 139 
 
 five-ounce rod If the belly is thirty to thirty-five 
 feet In length. A thirty-five-yard B tournament 
 line should weigh i}i ounces to i>^ ounces. For 
 dry-fly distance casting with the five-ounce rod, 
 and for wet-fly distance casting with the four- 
 ounce rod, a C line weighing i J^ ounces is about 
 right. Less belly and taper are needed In the 
 last-named line. 
 
 What has been said of casting with the five- 
 ounce rod applies both to the four-ounce and 
 the unlimited rod. The latter Is generally ii^ 
 feet long, and Is fitted with a long grasp. Bare 
 your arm and lay It down on a two-foot rule. 
 Measure from the end of the thumb to a point 
 on the muscles of the forearm 2j^ inches from 
 the point of the elbow. This will determine 
 the proper length of the grasp, say from 13 to 
 15 inches. (See Fig. 31.) 
 
 Fig. 31. — Position of Arm and Hand in Casting With 
 the Unlimited Rod. 
 
 In selecting a rod, see that it has good action 
 clear down to the hand. If it is too stiff 
 it will force you to cast rapidly, and this you 
 
140 FISHING TACKLE 
 
 cannot do with a heavy rod. The middle joint 
 should be strong, and the tip of slow rather 
 than quick taper. Of the two, a rod with stiff 
 butt, and one with apparently too much butt 
 action, choose the latter. Give no heed to the 
 weight of the rod, save that it should in a 
 measure correspond with your strength. Mere 
 weight signifies little in the unlimited rod, and 
 one weighing 9 ounces may suit you better than 
 one of II or 12 ounces. 
 
 In selecting the rod with which I have done 
 my best general average distance casting, I did 
 so with the intention of trying a lighter one than 
 any of the four rods that I had used during 
 several seasons. The one I finally selected had 
 very slow action, and seemed to weigh less than 
 ten ounces. In practice it did not tire my arm, 
 would lift a very long line, and one day I 
 weighed it. The old rods weighed 12, 11^, 
 12, and II J4 ounces respectively; the new one 
 I2>4 ounces! 
 
 For greater convenience in stripping the line, 
 the lowermost, or hand guide, should be thirty 
 to thirty-six Inches from the butt of the rod. It 
 is well to have a hand guide of phosphor bronze, 
 steel, or agate, as this guide is subjected to ex- 
 cessive wear. I prefer bronze for the reason 
 that agates are so easily broken. And agate 
 
TOURNAMENT FLY-CASIING 141 
 
 tops are an abomination. The other guides 
 should be snake pattern and a little larger than 
 those of the fishing rod. Bronzed steel guides 
 
 are best. 
 
 In casting with the heavy rod, hold the butt 
 against the muscles of the forearm, thumb ex- 
 tended along the grasp, wrist absolutely rigid. 
 (Fig. 31.). Cast just as you would if the grasp 
 were lashed to your hand and arm. The only 
 hinges are at the elbow and shoulder. 
 
 You lift the line with the whole arm; you 
 stop the rod with rigid arm and wrist, keeping 
 the butt against the forearm. This is a difficult 
 thing to master, but it can and must be done. 
 I find it a help to use a soft rubber buttcap, 
 which prevents the butt from slipping off the 
 forearm in lifting the line. I use one of the 
 caps made for bait rods, but trim it down until 
 it is the same diameter as the handgrasp. 
 
 THE END 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY^NEW YORK 
 
 HANnRnni^Q Thetexthooksforoui^ 
 rki\l\LJL3yj\Jr%.0 door work and play 
 
 H. Each Look deals with a separate subject and deals with it thor- 
 oughly. If you want to know anything about Airedales an OUTING 
 HANDBOOK gives you all you want. If it's Apple Growing, another 
 OUTING HANDBOOK meets your need. The Fisherman, the 
 Camper, the Poultry-raiser, the Automobilist, the Horseman, all 
 varieties of out-door enthusiasts, will find separate volumes for their 
 separate interests. There is no waste space. 
 
 €L The series is based on the plan of one subject to a book and each 
 book complete. The authors are experts. Each book has been 
 specially prepared for this series and all are published in uniform 
 style, flexible cloth binding. 
 
 €L Two hundred titles are projected. The series covers all phases 
 of outdoor life, from bee-keeping to big-game shooting. Among the 
 books now ready or in preparation are those described on the fol- 
 lowing pages. 
 
 PRICE SEVENTY CENTS PER VOL. NET, POSTAGE 5c. EXTRA 
 THE NUMBERS MAKE ORDERING EASY. 
 
 1. EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr. Woods 
 
 Hutchinson. Dr. Hutchinson takes the common-sense view that 
 the greatest problem in exercise for most of us is to get enough of 
 the right kind. The greatest error in exercise is not to take enough, 
 and the greatest danger in athletics is in giving them up. He writes 
 in a direct matter-of-fact manner with an avoidance of medical terms, 
 and a strong emphasis on the rational, all-round manner of living 
 that is best calculated to bring a man to a ripe old age with littlt 
 illness or consciousness of bodily weakness. 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY-NEW YORK 
 
 2. CAMP COOKERY, by Horace Kephart. "The 
 less a man carries in his pack the more he must carry in his head,'*^ 
 Bays Mr. Kephart. This book tells what a man should carry in both 
 pack and head. Every step is traced — the selection of provisions 
 and utensils, with the kind and quantity of each, the preparation of 
 game, the building of fires, the cooking of every conceivable kind of 
 food that the camp outfit or woods, fields or streams may provide — 
 even to the making of desserts. Every recipe is the result of hard 
 practice and long experience. 
 
 3. BACKWOODS SURGERY A]>JD MEDICINE, 
 
 by Charles S. Moody, M. D. A handy book for the pru- 
 dent lover of the woods who doesn't expect to be ill but believes in 
 being on the safe side. Common-sense methods for the treatment 
 of the ordinary wounds and accidents are described — setting a 
 broken limb, reducing a dislocation, caring for burns, cuts, etc. 
 Practical remedies for camp diseases are recommended, as well as 
 the ordinary indications of the most probable ailments. Includes a 
 list of the necessary medical and surgical suppKes. 
 
 4. APPLE GROWING, by M. C. Burritt. The 
 
 various problems confronting the apple grower, from the preparation 
 of the soil and the planting of the trees to the marketing of the fruit, 
 are discussed in detail by the author. Chapter headings are: — The 
 Outlook for the Growing of Apples — ^Planning for the Orchard — 
 Planting and Growing the Orchard— Pruning the Trees — Cultivation 
 and Cover Cropping— Manuring and Fertilizing — Insects and Dis- 
 eases Afiiecting the Apple — The Principles and Practice of Spraying 
 — Harvesting and Storing — Markets and Marketing — Some Hints ou 
 Renovating Old Orchards — The Cost of Growing Apples. 
 
 5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes. The 
 
 book opens with a short chapter on the origin and development of 
 the Airedale, as a distinctive breed. The author then takes up the 
 problems of type as bearing on the selection of the dog, breeding, 
 training and use. The book is designed for the non-professional dog 
 fancier, who wishes common sense advice which does not involve 
 elaborate preparations or expenditure. Chapters are included on the 
 care of the dog in the kennel and simple remedies for ordinary 
 diseases. 
 
OUTING PUBLISH TNG COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 « 6. THE AUTOMOBILE— Its Selection, Care and 
 Use, by Robert Sloss. This is a plain, practical discussion of 
 the things that every man needs to know if he is to buy the right car 
 and get the most out of it. The various details of operation and 
 care are given in simple, intelligent terms. From it the car owner 
 can easily learn the mechanism of his motor and the art of locating 
 motor trouble, as well as how to use his car for the greatest pleasure. 
 A chapter is included on building garages. 
 
 7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT, by 
 
 Samuel G. Camp, a complete guide to the angler buying a new, 
 outfit. Every detail of the fishing kit of the freshwater angler is de- 
 scribed, from rodtip to creel, and clothing. Special emphasis is laid 
 on outfitting for fly fishing, but ftdl instruction is also given to the 
 man who wants to catch pickerel, pike, muskellunge, lake-trout, bass 
 and other freshwater game fishes. Prices are quoted for all articles 
 recommended and the approved method of selecting and testing the 
 various rode, lines, leaders, etc., is described. 
 
 8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by Samuel Ql 
 
 Camp. Combine the pleasure of catching fish with the gratification 
 of following the sport in the most approved manner. The sugges- 
 tions offered are helpftil to beginner and expert anglers. The range 
 of fish and fishing conditions covered is wide and includes such sub- 
 jects as ^'Casting Fine and Far Off"," "Strip-Casting for Bass," "Fish- 
 ing for Moimtain Trout" and "Autumn Fishing for Lake Trout." 
 The book is pervaded with a spirit of love for the streamside and 
 the out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate. 
 A companion book to "Fishing Kits and Equipment." The advice 
 on outfitting so capably given in that book is supplemented in this 
 later work by equally valuable information on how to use the 
 equipment. 
 
 9. THE HORSE— Its Breeding, Care and Use, by 
 David Buffum. Mr. Buffum takes up the common, cvery-day 
 problems of the ordinary horse-users, such as feeding, shoeing, 
 simple home remedies, breaking and the cure for various equine 
 vices. An important chapter is that tracing the influx of Arabian 
 blood into the English and American horses and its value and limi- 
 tations. Chapters are included on draft-horses, carriage horses, and 
 the development of the two-minute trotter. It is distinctly a sensible 
 book for the sensible man who wishes to know how he can improve 
 his horses and his horsemanship at the same time. 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 10. THE MOTOR BOAT— Its Selection, Care and 
 
 Use, by H. W. Slauson. The intending purchaser is advised 
 as to the type of motor boat best suited to his particular needs and 
 how to keep it in running condition after purchased. The chapter 
 headings are: Eands and Uses of Motor Boats — When the Motor 
 Balks — Speeding of the Motor Boat — Getting More Power from a 
 New Motor — How to Install a Marine Power Plant — Accessories — 
 Covers, Canopies and Tops — Camping and Cruising — The Boathouse. 
 
 11. OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert Wells. 
 
 Mr. Wells has perfected a method of signalling by means of wig- 
 wag, light, smoke, or whistle which is as simple as it is effective. 
 The fundamental principle can bo learned in ten minutes end its 
 application is far easier than that of any other code now in use. 
 It permits also the use of cipher and can be adapted to almost any 
 imaginable conditions of weather, light, or topography. 
 
 12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef Brunner. 
 
 After twenty years of patient study and practical experience, Mr. 
 Brunner can, from his intimate knowledge, speak with authority on 
 this subject. "Tracks and Tracking" shows how to follow intelli- 
 gently even the most intricate animal or bird tracks. It teaches how 
 to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the many tell-tale 
 signs of the chase that would otherwise pass unnoticed. It proves 
 how it is possible to tell from the footprints the name, sex, speed, 
 direction, whether and how wounded, and many other things about 
 wild animals and birds. All material has been gathered first hand ; 
 the drawings and half-tones from photographs form an important 
 part of the work. 
 
 13. WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by Charles 
 
 Askins. Contains a full discussion of the various methods, 
 such as snap-shooting, swing and half-swing, discusses the flight of 
 birds with reference to the gxmner's problem of lead and range and 
 makes special application of the various points to the different birds 
 commonly shot in this country. A chapter is included on trap 
 shooting and the book closes with a forceful and common-sense 
 *presentation of the etiquette of the field. 
 
OUTING PUBLTSHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POULTRY, by 
 Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. "Wbeeler discusses from personal ex- 
 perience the J)est-kno\VTi general purpose breeds. Advice is given 
 from the standpoint of the* man who desires results in eggs and stock 
 rather than in specimens for exhibition. In addition to a carefiil 
 analysis of stock — good and bad — and some conclusions regarding 
 housing and management, the author writes in detail regarding 
 Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, 
 Mediterraneans and the Cornish. 
 
 15. RIFLES AJVD RIFLE SHOOTING, by Charles 
 
 Askins. A practical manual describing varioua makes and mechan- 
 isms, in addition to discussing in detail the range and limitations in 
 the use of the rifle. Treats on the every style and make of rifle 
 as well as their use. Every type of rifle is discussed eo that the 
 book is complete in every detaiL 
 
 16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace Kephart. 
 
 This book is the result of painstaking tests and experiments. Prac- 
 tically nothing is taken for granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and 
 Part II with the shotgun. The man seeking guidance in the selec- 
 tion and use of small firearms, as well as the advanced student of 
 the subject, will receive an unusual amount of assistance from this 
 work. The chapter headings are: Rifles and Ammunition — The 
 Flight of Bullets — Killing Power — Rifle Mechanism and Materials — 
 Rifle Sights — Triggers and Stocks — Care of Rifle — Shot Patterns and 
 Penetration — Gauges and Weights — Mechanism and Build of 
 Shotguns. 
 
 17. THEYACHTSMAN'SHANDBOOK,byHerbert 
 
 L. Stone. The author and compiler of this work is the editor of 
 ** Yachting." He treats in simple language of the many problems 
 confi-onting the amateur sailor and motor boatman. Handling 
 grotmd tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the use of the lead 
 line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are all given careful 
 attention. Some Ught is thrown upon the operation of the gasoline 
 motor, and suggestions are made for the avoidance of engine 
 troubles. 
 
 18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS, by WH- 
 
 liams Haynes. This is a companion book to "The Airedale," 
 and deals with the history and development of both breeds. For 
 the owner of the dog, valuable information is given as to the use of 
 the terriers, their treatment in health, their treatment when sick, 
 the principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules. 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK ' 
 
 ' ■■ 
 
 19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMATEUR, by Capt. 
 
 E, T. Morton. A short treatise on the simpler methods of find- 
 ing position at sea by the observation of the sun^s altitude and the 
 use of the sextant and chronometer. It is arranged especially for 
 yachtsmen and amateurs who wish to know the simpler formulae 
 for the necessary navigation involved in taking a boat anywhere off 
 shore. Illustrated with drawings. Chapter headings : Fundamental 
 Terms — Time — ^The Sumner Line— The Day's Work, Equal Altitude* 
 and Ex-Meridian Sights — Hints on Taking Observations. 
 
 20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by Julian A. 
 
 Dimock. A solution of all the problems in camera work out-of- 
 doors. The various subjects dealt with are : The Camera — Lens and 
 Plates — Light and Exposure — Development — Prints and Printing — 
 Composition— Landscapes — Figure Work — Speed Photography — ^The 
 Leaping Tarpon — Sea Pictures— In the Good Old Winter Time- 
 Wild Life. 
 
 21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by DiUon 
 
 Wallace, Mr. Wallace has brought together in one volume all 
 the valuable information on the diflferent ways of making and carry- 
 ing the difierent kinds of packs. The ground covered ranges from 
 man-packing to horse-packing, from the use of the tump line to 
 throwing the diamond hitch. 
 
 22. THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. 
 This is a companion book to "The Airedale" and ''Scottish and Irish 
 Terriers'* by the same author. Its greatest usefulness is as a guide 
 to the dog owner who wishes to be his own kennel manager. A full 
 account of the development of the breed is given with a description 
 of best types and standards. Recommendations for the care of 
 the dog in health or sickness are included. The chapter heads 
 cover such matters as: — The Bull Terrier's History — Training the 
 Bull Terrier— The Terrier in Health'—Kenneling— Diaeasee. 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 23. THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. 
 As in his other books on the terrier, Mr. Haynes takes up the origin 
 and history of the breed, its types and standards, and the more ex- 
 clusive representatives down to the present time. Training the Fox 
 Terrier — His Care and Kenneling in Sickness and Health — and the 
 Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put — are among the phases 
 handled. 
 
 24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace Tabor. 
 
 Illustrated vrith diagrams. The author regards the house and 
 grounds as a complete unit and shows how the best results may be 
 obtained by carrying the reader in detail through the various phases 
 of designing the garden, with the levels and contours necessary, 
 laying out the walks and paths, planning and placing the arbors, 
 summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting and placing trees, shrubs, 
 vines and flowers. Ideal plans for plots of various sizes are appended, 
 as well as suggestions for correcting mistakes that have been made 
 through "starting wrong." 
 
 25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES, by 
 
 Samuel G. Camp. This is an art that is comparatively new in 
 this country although English anglers have used the dry fly for 
 generations. Mr. Camp has given the matter special study and is 
 one of the few American anglers who really understands the matter 
 from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the fish. His book 
 takes up the process in that order, namely — How to Outfit for Dry 
 Fly Fishing— How, Where, and When to Cast— The Selection and 
 Use of Floating Flies— Dry Fly Fishing for Brook, Browri and 
 Rainbow Trout — Hooking, Playing and Landing— Practical Hints on 
 Dry Fly Fishing. 
 
 26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold Whiting 
 
 Slauson. Deals with the practical problems of motor operation. 
 The standpoint is that of the man who wishes to know how and 
 why gasoline generates power and something about the various 
 types. Describes in detail the different parts of motors and the 
 faults to which they are liable. Also gives full directions as to re- 
 pair and upkeep. Various chapters deal with Types of Motors — 
 Valves — Bearings — Ignition — Carburetors — Lubrication — Fuel — 
 Two Cycle Motors. 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 27. ICE BOATING, by H. L. Stone. Illustrated with 
 diagrams. Here have been brought together all the available in- 
 formation on the organization and history of ice-boating, the build- 
 ing of the various types of ice yachts, from the small 15 footer to 
 the 600-foot racer, together with detailed plans and specifications. 
 Full information is also given to meet the needs of those who wish 
 to be able to build and sail their own boats but are handicapped by 
 the lack of proper knowledge as to just the points described in this 
 volume. 
 
 28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold H. Hilton. Mr. 
 
 Hilton is the only man who has ever held the amateur champion- 
 ship of Great Britain and the United States in the same year. In 
 addition to this, he has, for years, been recognized as one of the 
 most intelligent, steady players of the game in England. This book 
 is a product of his advanced thought and experience and gives the 
 reader sound advice, not so much on the mere swinging of the clubs 
 as in the actual playing of the game, with all the factors that enter 
 into it. He discusses the use of wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, 
 the art of approaching, tournament play as a distinct thing in itself, 
 and kindred subjects. 
 
 29. INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C. Corbett. 
 
 A discussion of the meaning, method and value of intensive methods 
 in agriculture. This book is designed for the convenience of prac- 
 tical farmers who find themselves under the necessity of making a 
 living out of high-priced land. 
 
 30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by WiUiams 
 Haynes. This is a companion volume to PRACTICAL DOG 
 KEEPING, described below. It goes at length into the funda- 
 mental questions of breeding, such as selection of types on both 
 sides, the perpetuation of desirable, and the elimination of undesir- 
 able, qualities, the value of prepotency in building up a desired 
 breed, etc. The arguments are illustrated with instances of what 
 has been accomplished, both good and bad, in the case of well- 
 known breeds. 
 
 31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by Williams 
 
 Haynes. Mr. Haynes is well known to the readers of the OUTING 
 HANDBOOKS as the author of books on the terriers. His new 
 book is somewhat more ambitious in that it carries him into the 
 general field of selection of breeds, the buying and selling of dogs, 
 the care of dogs in kennels, handling in bench shows and field trials, 
 and at considerable length into such subjects as food and feeding, 
 exercise and grooming, disease, etc 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 32. PRACTICAL TREE PLANTING, by C. R. 
 
 Pettis. The author, who is the New York State Forester, takes up 
 the general suhject of reforesting, covering nature's method and the 
 practical methods of broadcast seed-sowing, seed spot planting, 
 ttursery practice, etc. The various species are described and their 
 adaptability to varying conditions indicated. Results of reforesting 
 are shown and instructions are given for the planting of wind- 
 breaks and shade trees. 
 
 33. AMATEUR RODMAKING, by Perry D. Frazer. 
 
 Illustrated. A practical manual for all those who want to make 
 their own rod and fittings. It contains a review of fishing rod his- 
 tory, a discussion of materials, a list of the tools needed, description 
 of the method to be followed in making all kinds of rods, including 
 fly-casting, bait-fishing, ealmon, etc., with full instructions for wind- 
 ing, varnishing, etc. 
 
 34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOTING, by A. L. 
 
 A. Himmelwriglit. A new and revised edition of a work that has 
 already achieved prominence as an accepted authority on the use of 
 the hand gun. Full instructions are given in the use of both revolver 
 and target pistol, including shooting position, grip, position of arm, etc. 
 The book is thoroughly illustrated with diagrams and photographs 
 and includes the.;niles of the United States Revolver Association 
 and a list of the records made both here and abroad. 
 
 35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod. This 
 
 is a book for both fancier and market breeder. Full descriptions 
 are given of the construction of houses, the care of the burds, pre- 
 
 Earation for market, and shipment. Descriptions of the various 
 reeds with their markings and characteristics are given. Ulustrated 
 with photographs and diagrams. 
 
 36. FISHING TACKLE, by Perry D. Frazer. H- 
 
 lustrated. The subtitle is descriptive. "Hints for Beginners in 
 the Selection, Care, and Use of Rods, Reels, Lines, etc." It tells all 
 the fisherman needs to know about making and overhaiding his 
 tackle during the closed season and gives full instructions for tour- 
 Bament casting and fly-casting. Chapters are included on cases and 
 holders for the care of tackle when not in use. 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 37! AUTOMOBILE OPERATION, by A. L. 
 
 Brennan, Jr. Illustrated. Tells the plain truth about the little 
 things that every motorist wants to know about his own car. Do 
 you want to cure ignition troubles? Overhaxil and adjust your 
 carbureter? Keep your transmission in order? Get the maximmn 
 wear out of your tires? Do any other of the hundred and one 
 things that are necessary for the greatest use and enjoyment of your 
 car? Then you will find this book usefiiL 
 
 38. THE FOX HOUND, by Roger D. Williams. 
 Author of "Horse and Hound". Illustrated. The author is 
 the foremost authority on fox himting and foxhoimds in America. 
 For years he has kept the foxhound studbook, and is the final gource 
 of information on all disputed points relating to this breed. His 
 book discusses types, methods of training, kenneling, diseases and 
 all the other practical points relating to the use and care of the 
 hound. An appendix is added containing the rules and regulations 
 of hound field trials. 
 
 39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by Charles 
 
 F. Holder. Mr. Holder covers the whole field of his subject 
 devoting a chapter each to such fish as the tuna, the tarpon, amber- 
 jack, the sail fish, the yellow-tail, the king fish, the barracuda, the 
 sea bass and the small game fishes of Florida, Porto Rico, the Pacific 
 Coast, Hawaii, and the Philippines. The habits and habitats of the 
 fish are described, together with the methods and tackle for taking 
 them. The book concludes with an account of the development 
 and rules of the American Sea Angling Clubs. Illustrated. 
 
 40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S. Carpenter. 
 
 A book that meets the increasing interest in outdoor life in the cold 
 •weather. Mr. Carpenter discusses such subjects as shelter equipment, 
 clothing, food, snowshoeing, skiing, and winter himting, wild life in 
 winter woods, care of firost bite, etc. It is based on much actual ex- 
 perience in winter camping and is fully illustrated with working 
 photographs. 
 
 41. LEARNING TO SWIM, by L. DeB. Handley. 
 
 Illustrated. Mr. Handley takes up the problem firom the standpoint 
 of the person of any sex or age who cannot swim a stroke. Step by 
 step he unfolds the various stages, floating, the side stroke, the 
 crawl, the trudgeon, the breast stroke, swimming on the back, etc., 
 concluding with a chapter on speed swimming and training for rac- 
 ing. It covers the whole field of natation in a clear, simple manner, 
 with photographs showing each stroke in detail. 
 
 42. BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, by Victor 
 
 Slocum. AH of us like to think we cotild build a boat if we had 
 to. Mr, Slocum tells us how to do it. Designs are given for the 
 various types of canoes as well as full descriptions for preparing the 
 material and putting it together. Small dories and lapstreak boats 
 are also include') 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 43. PRACTICAL PROSPECTING, by Charles 
 
 Johnson Post, niustxated. Did you ever wonder what ore- 
 bearing rock looked like ? Did you ever want to know how to test 
 it for the various minerals? Would you be interested in learning 
 how to put together a rough and ready outfit that would do all the 
 work of the more expensive kits ? This book covers all these points 
 and more. It is a valuable companion for a walking trip through 
 the hills. It tells you not only where minerals are found and how, 
 but also where you need not expect to find them. 
 
 44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. Practical in- 
 
 struction for men who wish to learn the first steps in the manly 
 art. Mr. Hutchison writes from long personal experience as an 
 amateur boxer and as a trainer of other amateurs. His instructions 
 are accompanied with full diagrams showing the approved blows 
 and guards. He also gives full directions for training for condition 
 without danger of going stale from overtraining. It is essentially a 
 book for the amateur who boxes for sport and exercise. 
 
 45. TENNIS TACTICS, by Raymond D. Little. 
 
 Out of his store of experience as a successful tennis player, Mr. 
 Little has written this practical guide for those who wish to know 
 how real tennis is played. He tells the reader when and how to 
 take the net, discusses the relative merits of the back-court and 
 volleying game and how their proper balance may be achieved; 
 analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the fundamental 
 necessities of successful doubles play. 
 
 46. THE AUXILLVRY YACHT, by H. L. Stone. 
 
 Combines information on the installation of power in a boat that 
 was not designed especially for it with the features desirable in de- 
 signing a boat for this double use. Deals with the peculiar proper- 
 ties of the auxiliary, its advantages and disadvantages, the handling 
 of the boat under saU and power, etc. Does not go into detail on 
 engine construction but gives the approximate power needed tor 
 different boats and the calculations necessary to find this fagure. 
 
 47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray. Illustrated with 
 
 diagrams. Being a practical taxidermist, the author at once goes into 
 the question of selection of tools and materials for the various stages 
 of skinning, stuffing and mounting. The subjects whose handling 
 is described are, for the most part, the every-day ones, such as 
 ordinary birds, small mammals, etc., although adequate instructions 
 are included for mounting big game specimens, as well as the pre- 
 liminary care of skins in hot climates. Full diagrams accompany 
 the text* 
 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 
 
 48. THE CANOE—ITS SELECTION, CARE AND 
 
 tJSE, by Robert E. Pinkerton. Illustrated with photographs. 
 With proper use the canoe is one of the safests crafts that floats. 
 Mr. Pinkerton tells how that state of safety may be obtained. He 
 gives full instructions for the selection of the right canoe for each 
 particular purpose or set of conditions. Then he tells how it should 
 be used in order to secure the maximum of safety, comfort and use- 
 fulness. His own lesson was learned among the Indians of Canada, 
 where paddling is a high art, and the use of the canoe almost as 
 much a matter of course as the wearing of moccasins. 
 
 49. HORSE PACKING, by Charles J. Post. 
 
 Illustrated with diagrams. This is a complete description of the 
 hitches, knots, and apparatus used in making and carrying loads of 
 various kinds on horseback. Its basis is the methods followed in the 
 "West and in the American Army. The diagrams are full and detailed, 
 giving the various hitches and knots at each of the important stages 
 so that even the novice can follow and use them. It is the only 
 book ever published on this subject of which this could be eaid. 
 Full description is given of the ideal pack animal, as well as a cata- 
 logue of the diseases and injuries to which such animals are subject. 
 
 50. RAIINY DAY IN CAMP, by C. H. Claudy. 
 
 Illustrated. What do you do when you are stormbound in the camp 
 and time hangs heavy on your hands ? This book gives a long list 
 of games that you can play and the rules that govern them. It also 
 describes various improvised indoor occupationg appropriate to 
 camp life. If you have it in your duffle bag you need not fear the 
 approach of tbreatening clouds. 
 
 51. WALKING OUTFITS, by C. P. Fordyce. 
 
 Illustrated. Every year the adherents of "hiking" in this country 
 grow in numbers and enthusiasm. It is an old art and a valuable 
 one. But something more than a pair of legs is necessary to make 
 the walking trip a success. You must wear the right shoes and the 
 right clothes. You must carry with you the right kind of sleeping 
 and cooking outfit. Mr. Fordyce gives the concentrated experience 
 of many years on highway and trail. 
 
 52. LEARNING TO SKATE, by J. F. Verne. 
 
 Illustrated. Half the fiin of skating is in knowing how to do if 
 with the least efibrt. Nothing is so easy when you know how — or 
 6o hard when you don't. This book describes the process in detail 
 from the first day on the ice to the highest development of 
 speed and fancy skating. The author is familiar with the^ latest 
 developments in Eiurope where figure skating has been carried to 
 a much higher point than in America.