Class -. Book- COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT STATEN ISLAND. ^^^.N, \^--.^ A GUIDE BOOK, ILLUSTRATIONS AND A ROAD MAP. GUSTAV KOBBE, 251 BROADWAY, N. Y. \^ ^ <54'^\-^ Copyright, Gustav Kobb6, 1890. PRESS OF DE LEEUW * OFPENHEIMEB, S31 V>ILLIAM ST. TABLE Olf' CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction, -- 9 Chapter I. New York to St. George, ----- 25 The North Shore, ----_. 26 Chapter II. The South Shore, -------41 Chapter III. The Interior -_-_-_- 47 Chapter IV. Places not on the Railroads, - . _ - 53 Chapter V. Drives and Walks, - 57 LIST OW ILLTJSXR^TIOHSrS. PAGE Clove Lake and Old Mill, - - Frontispiece. Relics, ---12 S. I. C. and B. B. C, i8 Toward the Narrows. — Up the Kills. - - - 24 Richmond Terrace, ------ 30 Boat House— S. I. A. C, - - - - - 34 At South Beach, _._--_ 40 Vanderbilt Tomb, ------ 46 Along Mill Brook, ------ 52 Silver Lake. — Moonlight on the Kills, - _ 56 WSBeffwort <^- C. r-R.. R..OF WEWAH / § .•• i 7? .1 F Bergei SHOOTERS Jierge, G PE AM INTRODUCTION. Topography and Geology. — The topography of Staten Island is very diversified, consisting of hills, level farming land, salt marshes and beach. In shape it is an irregular triangle comprising sS^-^ square miles. Its greatest length, northeast and southwest, is 13 miles ; its greatest breadth, 8 miles. The entire southeastern shore has suffered an enormous wear, due to the abrad- ing action of the waves coupled with the gradual de- pression of the coast. Where Elm Tree light-house now stands — then the foot of New Dorp lane, but now beyond the end of a dock extending 400 feet out into the water — there grew, in 1S40, a large American elm. This indicates an average encroachment of the sea of 10 feet a year. There has been a loss of about 350 feet since 1850 at Cedar Grove, one-half mile south of Elm Tree light-house, and at Prince's Bay and the forts on the Narrows the government has been obliged to build sea-walls for the protection of its property. There are two ranges of hills. The first, beginning at New Brighton, where it is 310 feet high, sweeps in- land behind Tompkinsville and Stapleton, reaching the shore at the Narrows at Clifton. The second ridge begins in the rear of West New Brighton and extends to the south nearly reaching New Dorp, when it veers to the westward to the Fresh Kill. Its greatest elevation, 370 feet, is Toad or Todt Hill, which is the highest point of the Island. Other promi- nent elevations on this ridge are Richmond and La Tourette's hills. The general topography of the Island, its shape, boundaries and location are so well shown on the map that detailed references to these matters is unnecessary. Geology. — The geology of Staten Island is very diver- sified for so small an area. We find within its limits strata of the Archaean, Triassic, Cretaceous, Quaternary and Modern eras. Archaan Strata : True granite is exposed about 400 feet southwest of the old Tompkinsville steamboat land- ing ; there is another exposure about 200 feet south of to this. A belt, of granite of unknown width is supposed to extend around the eastern edge of the main range of hills, covered by glacial drift and cretaceous strata, and continuing southwest to Arthur Kill and across New Jersey to Trenton, where it again crops out. The upper portion of the main series of hills is formed by magnesian rocks (serpentines), the serpentine area being estimated at about 133^ miles. The most eastern exposed boundary forms the series of bold declivities from Tompkinsville to Richmond. Compact and fibrous serpentines, marmolite, silvery talc, apple green talc, gurhofite, dolomite, calcite and chromite are among the interesting minerals which have been collected within this area. These metamorphic rocks are apparently a southern continuation of those of Manhattan Island and of Hoboken, N. J. Triassic Forjuation : Strata of this age cover the area bounded by the assumed western edge of the serpentine rocks, Newark Bay and the marine alluvium along Arthur Kill. The rocks are red ferruginous shales and sandstone, which are broken through by a ridge of trap rock, a continuation of the Palisades of the Hudson. Cretaceoits Formation : The area of this formation has largely been covered by glacial drift and salt meadows. The strata consist of plastic clays, valuable in the manu- facture of fire-brick, drain-pipe, and other refractory ware. The most extensive pits are at Rossville and Kreischerville. Quaternary EpocJi : The remains of this epoch are the d posits of material brought from the north by the glacier whose terminal moraine, crossing the island from the Narrows to Tottenville, is distinctly marked by a line of hills. One of the huge gneiss boulders brought from the north by the glacier is to be seen on Fort Hill, New Brighton, and another in a field near Huguenot. • The limonite iron ore deposits, which have been extensively mined on Todt Hill, Richmond Ter- race, along the Clove road and near Four Corners, are provisionally referred to this formation. Modern Epoch : To this belong the salt meadows which extend over about g}^ miles of the Island. These were once shallow bays across whose entrance bars of sand were formed, and which then gradually filled up. There are good sand beaches from Clifton southward to the Point of the Beach, near Gifford's, at Seguin's Point and at Ward's Point. History. — The first white men to behold Staten Island were Henry Hudson and the crew of the Half Moon, which sailed through the Narrows September ii, i6og. Before weighing anchor to explore the river which bears his name, he detained two of the Staten Island Indians as hostages. At West Point, however, they escaped bv jumping overboard and swimming ashore. Hudson named the island Staaten Eylant, or " Island of the States." The Indians, who were Raritans of the Leni Lenappe or Delaware tribe, called it Aqtiebouga JSIanac- knoiig and also Egquahotis, which is said to signify the " Place of Bad Woods." These Indians dwelt along shore, near the good fishing places, as is evidenced by ancient shell heaps, remains of burial-places and relics, such as stone hatchets and arrow-heads. Springs, rudely built up with stone walls, like Logan Spring, a little northeast of Silver Lake, are supposed to be of Indian construction. Hudson was in the service of the Dutch, and Staten Island became part of New Netherland. The first settlers on the island were Walloons, who arrived in 1624. The precise spot of their settlement is not known. They did not remain long, removing to Long Island, because of their fear of Indian hostilities. Among the first " Patroons " or landed proprietors of New Netherland was Pauw, to whose share Staten Is- land fell. The first systematic settlement of the island seems to have been attempted about 1630 by David Pietersen DeVries, supposedly at or near Old Town (Oude Dorp). In September, 1640. a staff was erected at the Narrows, on which a flag was hoisted, to announce to New Amsterdam that a vessel had been sighted. This was the first marine telegraph in New York harbor, and it is noteworthy that marine signals continued to be operated from the Staten Island shore of the Narrows until the telegraph service between New York and Sandy Hook was established. The Indians had a curious habit of selling the island to whomever happened to make an offer for it, and his- tory records no less than six sales, the last, in 1670 to Governor Lovelace, to which they were obliged to adhere. The price was paid in goods at the value of about one Dly^^oR^w./^^^ CHUf^c/J^ RELICS. 13 cent for ten acres. The sale was accompanied by an impressive ceremony, the Indians presenting a sod and a branch of every kind of tree which grew on the island, except the ash and hickory, and these they always claimed to have a right to cut. The early settlers were greatly harassed by Indians. In 1665 the Indians attacked New Amsterdam, and on being driven back to their canoes crossed to Staten Is- land, where they slew twenty of the population of ninety- nine souls, and laid waste the "bouweries," which had been planted under many hardships. About 1661 ac- cessions came to the island settlers through a band of French Waldenses and Huguenots. Staten Island fell with the rest of New Netherland under English sway in the summer of 1661, the island being the first territory of which the conquerors took possession. Soon afterwards the Duke of York con- veyed what is now New Jersey to Lord Berkley and Sir George Cartaret, and at that time the question arose as to whether Staten Island was included in the convey- ance or remained to New York. The Duke of York de- ciding that all islands lying in the river or harbor which could be circumnavigated in twenty-four hours should belong to New York, Christopher Bilkjp, master of a small ship, the Bentley, undertook to sail around the is- land, and did so in less than twenty-four hours, thus securing it to the Duke, who bestowed upon him 1,163 acres on the extreme southern part of the island, to be called the " Manor of Bentley." There the old manor house still stands (see p. 51). In April, 1672, England and France declared war against Holland, and August 9th, 1673, New York capi- tulated to a Dutch fleet, but the following February peace was concluded and the province reverted by treaty to the English. Of the various colonial governors, the islanders are most directly concerned with Col. Thomas Dongan, as he made his residence on Staten Island. During the Revolution Staten Island was the scene of much military excitement. The military value of the Narrows was, of course, recognized by the British, and Howe and an army of 30,000 men were encamped on the island prior to the battle of Long Island. After the battle of Long Island Howe made overtures of peace, and met a committee from Congress at the Billop house, 14 but without result (see p, 51). When Sir William Howe sailed for Philadelphia, he left General Knyphausen in comm'and at Staten Island. Predatory raids were made by Hessians and Tories into New Jersey, and in return bands of Americans crossed over from New Jersey to Staten Island, with disastrous results to the British and those who were in sympathy with the latter. Staten Island was evacuated November 25, 17S3. Natural History. — From catalogues prepared by Prof. N. L. Britton, of Columbia College, and Arthur Hollick, to which the reader is referred for more de- tailed information, it appears that the flora of Staten Island numbers some 1,245 species and varieties. The varied characteristics of the flora are due to the variety of the geological conditions within the limited area of the island. Thus, in the cretaceous region around Tottenville and Kreischerville, the flora resembles that of the " Pine Barrens " rf southern New Jersey ; while the drift of sand, loam, gravel and " hard pan " cover- ing the rest of the island reproduces the flora of the Hudson River valley. Several species are confined to the ridge of serpentine extending from St. George to Richmond. Several fine souvenirs of the forest, which once cov- ered the island and in which oak and chestnut predom- inated, remain. A conspicuous object in a field on the south side of the track, near Garretson's station, is a huge white oak. In a little retired valley, north of the station, stands a chestnut, whose trunk measures 18 feet in circumference. The trunk of a white oak near Green Ridge is 15 feet and 2 inches in circumference. One of the willow trees at the Billop house, Totten- ville, shows a circumference of 13 feet and 7 inches. The sweet gum tree, with its corky bark, is also found here. Some 13 years ago, several enterprising islanders found a ready sale for branches of it in New York, hawking them as "alligator wood." They sold some even to residents of the island. Years ago deer and foxes were on the island, but they have long been extinct, and the only four-footed game remaining is the rabbit. The principal game-birds are quail, woodcock and rail. Industries. — The geological products of the island have been applied in various industries. The limonite 15 ore has feeen used in blast furnaces with other more refractory ores, and has been utilized in the production of red ochre paint. Fire-clay from the pits at Rossville and Kreischerville is employed at the factory at the latter place in the manufacture of refractory ware. Clays of glacial drift origin furnish material for com- mon brick made near Richmond and Linoleumville. There are important quarries of trap-rock at Granite- ville. Beach sand, to the thousands of tons, is shipped to New York and Brooklyn for building purposes. The most important industrial establishments are the Richmond Light, Heat and Power Co., at St. George; Windsor Plcster Mills, Manchester Manufacturing Co. (dress goods, velvet, plush, etc.) and the Irving Manu- facturing Co (silk), at New Brighton ; the Old Staten Island Dyeing Establishment, Baldwin's wall paper fac- tory and the Staten Island Water Supply Co., at West Brighton ; the Barrett, Nephews & Co.'s dye-house, and the Jewett White Lead Co., at Port Richmond; flour-mills at Mariner's Harbor ; the American Lino- leum Mfg. Co., at Linoleumville; Dean's Linseed Oil Mill, Elm Park ; Dfe Jonge's Paper Mill, Tompkins- ville ; Crystal Water Co. and Richmond County Gas Light Co., Stapleton ; Staten Island Gas Co., Clifton ; S. S. White Dental Works, Prince's Bay ; B. Kreischer & Sons (refractory ware, gas-retorts, etc.), Kreischer- ville ; and the Ultramarine Works, near Rossville. The brewing interests represent the largest industry on Staten Island. The chief breweries are George Bech- tel's brewery, at Stapleton ; Rubsam & Horrman's and the Staten Island Brewing Co., at the same place ; Fred. Bachmann's, at Clifton, and Monroe Eckstein's, at Castleton Corners. The oystering at Tottenville, which is a settlement of oystermen, is also an important industry. The famous " Sounds " come from here. The beds are stocked with seed oysters from the Raritan and Newark Bay. Charities. — Sailors' Snug Harbor (seepage 29). Sea- men's Fund and Retreat (see page 44). The S. R. Smith Infirmary, with which a Ladies' Auxiliary is con- nected, was organized in April, 1864, and formally opened June 20th of that year. It is located at Tomp- kinsville. The Staten Island Diet Kitchen was organ- ized in December, 1881. Its rooms are at Tompkins- i6 ville. The work is maintained by contributions of articles of food, flowers, etc. Mt. Loretto, at Pleasant Plains, is an active and im- portant branch of the Mission of the Immaculate Virgin, N. Y. Hotels and Boarding Houses. — Rates per week : — Netv Brighton, Castleton, special rates ; Pavilion, special rates ; Belmont, |8.oo-$i5.oo ; Brighton, $8. co- lic. oo ; Windsor, |7.cc-$3C.co. Board I5.c0-il25.c0. West Brighton, board $5.oo-$8.co. Port Richmond, St. James, $6.00 and upward. Erastina, board $5.00 and |6.oc. Tonipkinsville, Nautilus Hotel, $6.co-$ic.co; board same. Stapleton, board $8.oc)-|io.oo. Clifton, board same, Rosebajik, Lazzari's $9.00; board f5.cc— I7.00. Fort Wadsworth, Cliff Cottage, Clifton House, White House, and board $8.oc-|i5.oo. Arrochar, Gebhardt's, 1 10.00. Garretsons, board $5.oc-$8.cc. N'ew Dorp, South Beach Pavilion, Botanic Garden, Cedar Grove Hotel, all $10.00. Eltingviile, board, |6.oc-|8.oo. Annadale, board $6.oo-|8.oo. Huguenot, board $6.co-!|i2.oo. Princes Bay, board I5.0C and upward. Pleasant Plains, board $5.00. Tottenville, Union House, $5.oc-|7.oc; board same, Pe7-th Aniboy, Hotel Central and Parker House, |5.co-$io,oo ; board $5.oo-$6.oo. l^ie Staten Island Rapid Transit Railroad Company publishes atuiually, about April l^th, a list of hotels and boarding-houses , with their rates. This list can be had on application at the Company' s offices, foot Whitehall Sti'eet, New York. Carriage and Boat Hire, — Rates of carriage and boat hire are about uniform all over the island. Car- riages may be had for I1.50 the first hour and $1,00 each succeeding hour. To any point near the stations 50 cents. Two-horse open vehicles, holding four people, may be had at about $7.00 per day. Cabs are to be found only at West Brighton, where 25 cents and 35 cents are charged to points within the village, and 75 cents and $i.oc per hour for long drives. Rorv-boats may be had at 25 cents per hour and $3.00 per day. At the fishing-grounds boats are about $1.50 per day. Light cedar boats along the Kills are 50 cents per hour. Sail-boats 50 cents per hour and $5.00 per day. 17 Fishing. — Gifford's, Priiices Bay Q.nd J\oss7'i//eare the best fishing-grounds near the island. Bass (striped), fluke, flounders, and smaller fish are caught in large numbers, and vveakfish abound during the season. Worms, clams, crabs and shrimp are used for bait at different times and can be procured at the beach. Fish begin to run as soon as the warm weather sets in, and continue until it is too cold to fish with comfort. Comfortable quarters and good boats are to be obtained at low rates at these places. (See boat hire above.) Clubs and Club Life. — 77/^ Staten Island Athletic Club has a finely-appointed house with boat-house and grounds, situated half way between Livingston and West Brighton stations on the Richmond Terrace. The club-house was originally a large country residence, which has been enlarged and altered into one of the most complete country clubs in the vicinity of New York. The boat-house is a beautiful little building on the Kills, connected with the shore by a bridge leading ovei the railroad. The second floor of the boat-house, where midsummer evening receptions are held, is entirely open at the sides. The floor below is replete with conveni- ences. Shower and spray baths, lockers, boats, shells and barges of every description are to be found there. A yachting squadron is also a prominent feature of the club. In the club-house are a restaurant, parlors and card-rooms, sleeping apartments, bowling-alleys, and billiard and pool-tables, and a gymnasium is building. The ground runs back of the club-house several hundred feet. The cinder-path is one-fourth of a mile in diam- eter and the base-ball field is considered one of the most beautiful around New York. There are numerous tennis- courts, and a ladies' house on the grounds. The grand stand seats about 1,000 persons. Lacrosse and foot-ball teams are also connected with the club, which is ably manao^ed and very popular on the Is'and. Staten Island Cricket and Base-hall Cliih is the next largest club on Staten Island and like the Athletic Club is a member of the Amateur Base-ball League. It has a beautiful little club-house on Bard avenue, surrounded with numerous tennis-courts and a cr.cket and base-ball field. Many of the famous amateur cricket players of America are counted among its members. North Shore Tennis Club is a charming little associ- ila^. ii k^ 19 ation, with grounds and a club-house on Bard avenue, a little way up from the station. Most of the ladies and gentlemen of the vicinity are members. Kill von Kail Workinginan' s Chib and Institute occupy the brick building of the Young Men's Christian Asso- ciation on the shore road, just above West Brighton station. The club is a secular one, designed for the entertainment of the young men of the village and is very moderate in its fees. Pool and billiard-tables, bowling-alleys and a gymnasium are to be found in the club-house, and card, domino and chess-rooms, with library and reading-room up stairs, Corinthian Athletic Club is a young organization of great promise, w^hich has been formed lately by the young men of West Brighton. A club-house and grounds are promised for the near future. North Shore Gun Club is an organization composed of many crack shots, which meets at Port Richmond. Island Bowling Club is a strong club, which has alleys on Post avenue. Port Richmond. A bicycle club is in process of formation at Port Rich- mond. Staten Island Rowing Club is an exclusive body which has a small boat-house near St. George. New York Canoe Club has a boat-house at Tompkins- ville. Seawanhaka Yacht Club has a club-house near the old ferry landing at Tompkinsville and a good anchorage for yachts. Clifton Boat Club is a flourishing organization on the South Shore not far from the fort. Their very pretty little boat-house is well stocked with shells and other craft in great variety. Clifton Tennis Club is a popular club on the South Shore, with grounds not far from Rosebank station. The Country Club is a hunt club, with pleasant head- quarters on the Little Clove Road. Cross-country and paper-chases, with fox-hunting, are the chief sports. A^atural Science Association meets once a month. Churches. — Protestant Episcopal. — Christ Church, New Brighton ; Ascension, West Brighton ; St. John's, Clifton ; St. Andrew's, Richmond ; St. Paul's Memorial, Tompkinsville ; St. Luke's, Rossville ; St. Stephen's, Tottenville ; New Dorp Mission ; St. Mary's, West Brighton. Reformed. — Port Richmond ; Chapel, Mariner's Har- bor ; Brighton Heights; Huguenot. Lutheran. — Stapleton ; St. John's (German), Port Richmond. Moravian. — New Dorp ; Castlcton Corners ; Gifford's ; Stapleton; St. Philip's, Tower Hill ; First, New Brigh- ton ; South, Tottenville. Roman Catholie. — St. Peter's, New Brighton ; Immac- ulate Conception, Stapleton ; St. Mary's, Clifton ; St. Mary's, Port Richmond ; St. Patrick's, Richmond ; St. Joseph's, Rossville ; St. Rose of Lima, West Brighton ; S.. Paul's, Tottenville. Baptist. — Baptist, Erastina ; Park. Port Richmond. Methodist Episcopal. — Asbury, New Springfield ; Tra- visville ; Bloomfield ; Trinity, West Brighton ; Kings- ley, Stapleton ; Grace, Heberton avenue, Port Rich- mond ; Bethel, Tottenville ; Woodrow, Rossville ; St. Mark's, Pleasant Plains ; Summerville, Mariners' Har- bor ; St. John's, Rossville. Presbyterian. — First (of Edgewater), Stapleton ; First (of New Brighton), Clinton avenue, New Brighton ; Calvary, corner Castleton and Bement avenues, West New Brighton. Transportation. — The first authentic record we have of a ferry between New York and Staten Island is a notice made public in November, 1755 : Publick Notice is hereby given to all, Gentlemen Travellers, that Martin Duckett has rented the noted ferry house on Statten Island, lately kept by John Watson, where he intends to keep the Best Entertainment for man and Horse, with three good boats con- stantly attending said ferry to and from New York and Statten Island, in company with Scotch Johnny of said city. Tavern Keeper ; as also a commodious Stable with all kinds of Provinder for horses where all Gentlemen Travellers may be assured of best entertainment for themselves and horse with the most carefull and expeditious passages across the Bay. by applying to said Scotch Johnny, near White Hall Ferry stairs, or said Duckett on Statten Island aforesaid: and in case a boat showd be wanted in any emergency there shall be one in readiness on notice given to either of the I'ersons above mentioned. In 1757 a route across the island became part of a route to Philadelphia, via Billop's Point (Tottenville) Ferry and Perth Amboy. Another route to Philadel- phia, via Bergen Point to Port Richmond, crossed the island from the latter point to the Blazing Star Ferry, near Rossville. The opening of this route was an- nounced in the following notice : Any Gentlemen or Ladies that wants to go to Philadelphia, can go in the Stage and be at home in five Days and be two Nights and one Day in Philadelphia to do business, or see the Market Days. Among the Staten Island ferrymen, early in this century, was Cornelius Vanderbilt (p. 47). The first steam ferry was established in November, 1817, with the Naiiti'lius. The Staten Island Railroad, running from Vanderbilt's Landing to Tottenville, was opened in June, i860. The greatest improvement in the commu- nication between points on the island, and between the island and New York, was effected when the Staten Island Rapid Transit Company leased the Staten Island Rail- road for 99 years, and built additional lines which were focussed as St. George, where speedy and commodious ferry-boats were placed on the route to New York. The experience of Port Richmond may be selected as an illustration of the resulting improvement. Under the old system. Port Richmond was one hour from New York, with hourly boats. It is now but 36 minutes from New York, with three trips per hour. Further information regarding the routes of the Staten Island Rapid Transit Company will be found under St. George. Now that the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad has bridged Arthur Kills, St. George is destined to become a great ■freight terminus, and the islanders can also make direct connection for the West. 22 Railroad Fares. St. George Tompkinsville Stapleton Clifton Rosebank Fort Wadsworth. . . . Arrochar New Brighton Snug Harbor Livingston Station.. West Brighton . . . . Port Richmond Tower Hill Elm Park Erastina Arlington Grasmere Garretson Grant City New Dorp Court House Gifford's Eltingville . . . . . . . Woods of Arden , , . . Annadale Ocean Park. ..,,... Huguenot Prince's Bay Pleasant Plains Richmond Valley. . . Tottenville Perth Amboy From New York. Rates of Fc 6 V w u 5 .H^ be c 12 in H-^ (/} X Q W 5-2 25 l^o. 10 $0.20 5.6 28 .10 .20 6.3 30 .10 .20 6.7 32 .10 .20 7.2 34 . 10 .20 7-7 36 . 10 .20 8.4 ^0 .10 .20 5-7 28 .10 -.20 6.3 30 .10 .20 6.8 32 .10 .20 7-4 34 .10 .20 8.0 36 . 10 .20 8.4 38 . 10 .20 8.9 40 .10 .20 9.6 45 .10 .20 10.2 48 . 10 ,20 8.2 35 • 15 •30 9-5 37 .20 .40 10. 39 • 25 .40 10. g 40 • 25 .40 II. 8 44 • 25 .50 13.3 47 .30 .50 14.2 48 • 30 .50 14.6 50 .30 • 50 14.9 5T •35 • 55 15.6 53 •35 • 55 15.9 54 •35 .55 16.6 57 •35 .60 17.5 60 • 35 .60 18. 1 62 .35 .60 19.4 65 • 35 .Co 20.0 75 .45 .60 24 25 CHAPTER I. NEW YORK TO ST. GEORGE. Leaving the slip at Pier i, East River, at the foot of Whitehall street, the ferryboat at once heads for Staten Island, and there is an agreeable decrescendo from the turmoil of the city to the rhythmic throb of the engine and the swish of the wheels as they churn the waters of the harbor. Before the green of the trees on the Battery and the gray and the red of the great buildings beyond are quite blended in one undistinguishable color the picturesque old fort, Castle William, on Governor's Island looms up to the left, with Fort Columbus in the rear. In the old Dutch times, before there was any such place as New York, and New Amsterdam was but a village. Governor's Island was known as Nut or Nut- ten Island and was so near to the Brooklyn shore that people drove their cows across what is now known as Buttermilk Channel. Governor's Island is the head- quarters of the Atlantic division of the army, and the commanding General has his residence there. After passing the fort the Statue of Liberty towers aloft on the right. A recent division of the harbor has ceded Bedloe's or Liberty Island to New Jersey, whereas it once was in New York State. In an old account, written long before Bartholdi modelled the imposing statue which holds the torch of Liberty on high, it is written that " Bedloe's Island * * * is distinguished as the place for the execution of pirates." New Jersey is on the right, Long Island on the left and Staten Island, the objective point, rises directly ahead of the boat, 26 Through the Narrows, the gate-way of New York harbor, a bit of Jhe ocean can be seen, and on particu- larly bright days Sandy Hook looks like a thin blue line just beyond Fort Wadsworth on the Staten Island side. The bay, now reflecting the cerulean hue of a clear sky, now green, now gray, is an ever-changing delight to any one of artistic vision. Further along, the sound of a bell rolls over the waters with the rhythmic cadence of the waves, and to the right is seen the bell-buoy near Robins' Reef, and just behind it the light-house, which at night flashes every few seconds a golden ray of welcome to the mariner. Robins' Reef derives its name from the Dutch robyn, meaning seal, the seals which once abounded in the bay and harbor having found the reef a pleasant spot on which to bask in the sun. From Robins' Reef the landing at St. George is but a few minutes, and the delightful twenty-five minute sail of nearly six miles is over. THE NORTH SHORE. St. George to the Bridge. St. George is situated at the bend of the Island where the Kill von Kull and the waters of New York Bay mingle. It is the terminus of the Staten Island Rapid Transit and of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. The great warehouses lately finished and in the course of erection are destined to hold the freight which is brought over the Arthur Kill Bridge from the main line of the Baltimore and Ohio. St. George is the objective point of all persons coming to or leaving Staten Island ; it being the central station from which the various lines of the Staten Island Rapid Transit Company d'lverge. A few years ago two separate lines of boats ran to the 27 North and South shores of the Island, and the trips were often irregular and less frequent than desirable. But the completion of the railroad, and the frequency of the trains and boats has considerably reduced the time to the different places, and made travel between various points on the Island, as well as between the Isfand and New York, as regular as clock-work. During the busy hours of the morning and evening trips are made every twenty minutes to and from the Island. At St. George the passengers from the city disembark and take the dif- ferent branches of the railroad which run to Erastina on the North Shore, Arrochar on the South Shore, and Tottenville on the farther end of Staten Island, which is connected with Perth Amboy by a ferry. The train on the right is for New Brighton, Snug Harbor, Livingston, West Brighton, Port Richmond, Tower Hill, Elm Park, Erastina and Arlington. The train on the outside track to the left is for Tompkinsville, Stapleton, Clifton, Rose- bank, Fort Wadsworth and Arrochar or South Beach. The train on the inside track to the left is for Gras- m:re, Garretson's, Grawt City, New Dorp, Court House, Gifford's, Eltingville, Woods of Arden, Annadale, Ocean Park, Huguenot, Prince's Bay, Pleasant Plains, Rich- mond Valley and Tottenville, from which last-named place a ferry plies to Perth Amboy. Stops are also made, from St. George, at Tompkinsville, Stapleton and Clifton to take on passengers, and to St. George's to let off passengers. Directly back of the ferry-landing rises a steep bluff from whose summit the old St. Marks Hotel, which has been consolidated with a new building at its side, known as the Hotel Castleton, commands a magnificent view of the harbor and the New Jersey and Long Island shores. From this point a glimpse of Bayonne City, nestling behind Constable Hook, can be obtained, and 28 the tiny white houses and tapering church steeples look more like structures in Liliput than like the buildings of a flourishing town. To the north-east stretches the Jersey shore, lined all along with villages in miniature. Once in a while a fleeting view of hurrying trains can be caught. Further beyond a pall of smoke hangs above Jersey City against which the Statue of Liberty is outlined with wonderful majesty and grace. To the right is New York, resembling a patch of varied color against the blue of the bay and sky. The tall Wash- ington building and the tower of the Produce Exchange, with the steeple of Trinity church in the background, rise above the general outline, while the span of the East River Bridge seems to float on air between the two great cities with the fort on Governor's Island just beneath. The objects on the Long Island shore gradu- ally reveal them.selves from behind a veil of haze and grow more sharply defined. The line of great brown warehouses expends to the slope where between the trees of Greenwood gleam the white monuments of the dead ; and then comes the line of shore clothed in the verdant garb of Nature. Yachts are swinging lazily at anchor in the basin of the Atlantic Yacht Club, or dart- ing here and there like a flock of frightened birds. They skim along in the direction of the Narrows, past the two forts and then are lost to sight in the wide waste of water, and only the two guardian forts are seen. The view is a constant theme of admiration. At St. George are the spacious grounds and Casino of the Staten Island Amusement Company, where hundreds of thousands have watched the superb spectacles of "Nero" and the " Fall of Babylon," which were pro- duced on a scale of grandeur never before attempted. New Brighton, the first station on the North Shore, is about three minutes' ride in the train. The 29 railroad runs along the beach below a slight bluff which conceals it from the south side of the street above. At St. George begins a famous feature of the Island — Richmond Terrace — which extends all along the North Shore. The road is hard and well-made and shaded on either side by tall spreading trees. The view of the water is uninterrupted, only one side of the road being used for building. The houses a- e all detached, stand- ing in gardens of their own. Some are several feet above the road, with terraces of sloping green, and others, with tall white columns reaching to the roof, a sugges- tion of the old colonial days, stand in the midst of wide sweeping lawns. The road turns after leaving St. George, following the course of the Kill von Kull, and in a few minutes the Bay is left behind, and across the river are seen the docks and factories of the Standard Oil Com- pany. The rude buildings are softened by the distance, and no sound of the busy engines comes to break the quiet of the country. In fact, as the smoke curls up from the tall chimneys, and one reflects upon the busy hundreds within those walls, the contrast of the peaceful Island shore is all the more delightful. The Pavilion Hotel is a few minutes' walk from the New Brighton station, a large imposing building occupying a space nearly the length of a city block. A well-kept lawn, traversed by a number of walks, fronts the hotel, and the wide piazzas run the entire length — making a de- lightful promenade. New Brighton offers every convenience in the way of gas, electric light and pure water — thus combining all the advantages of the city, with the fresh air and free- dom of the country. For shopping, the stores in the village are sufficient to meet all ordinary wants. The postal deliveries are made by carriers. Sailors' Snug Harbor, about one mile from New 30 31 Brighton, is the next station. The establishment of the famous Home is said to have been due to a sugges- tion made by Alexander Hamilton to its founder, Robert Richard Randall, when the latter's will was drawn in 1801. The institution was incorporated that year, but litigation prevented the immediate use of the money, and the property was not purchased until 1831, in which year the corner-stone of the main building was laid. Three years later twenty additional acres were added to the grounds. The main building is a massive structure of cut stone, with Doric pillars in Vermont marble. A hospital, chapel and parsonage, Governor's house and several other edifices go to make up this mighty institution. In front of the main build- ing is a monument of Mr. Randall, who is buried be- neath the stone. On one side the inscription reads : "The Trustees of the Sailors' Snug Harbor erected this monument to the memory of Robert Richard Ran- dall, by whose munificence this Institution was founded on the 2Tst of August, 1834." On the other sides of the monument are inscriptions of similar import. A fine statue of the founder, by St. Gaudens, is on the lawn near the Governor's house. To the Harbor s-^ilors of every nationality are admitted, the only re- quirement for admission being that they have had a five year' sea service under the Stars and Stripes, and are incapable of self-support. Here blind sailors, lame sailors, sailors without legs, sailors without arms, and sailors physically and mentally round, but perhaps too old to stand the exposure of a mariner's life. They have everything they need, including tobacco, and one of the forms of punishment is to deprive Jack of his pipe. On all secular days the visitor is welcomed and inmates of the institution are very glad to act as guides, for an optional fee, through the grounds and buildings, 32 the former being laid out like a park. The men pass their time in a number of ways, many of them deriving an income from the sale of baskets, mats and ham- mocks, which they manufacture. A few figures regarding the resources of the institu- tion may be interesting. In 1806, the annual income from the estate was $4,243. Eight years later* it was about $6,000 and it has now grown to be over $100,000, a small fortune in itself. Immediately back of the Harbor, on grounds belong- ing to the institution, a " Home for Destitute Seamens' Children" has been built, of which a number of New York and Staten Island ladies are the managers. Across the road from the main entrance to the grounds is a small, stone platform where the sailors congregate to spin yarns and look out over the water. A green terrace slopes down to the railroad, and a little way beyond is the old ferry landing. Just beyond the ferry- house the road takes the form of a horseshoe, and a salt meadow fills the space made by the bend. The Harbor fence follows the road for a little way, but the pedestrian prefers to save time by crossing the meadow on the dyke, which stretches across the horseshoe ends. Livingston Station is at this point, but a few min- utes' walk from the boundary of the Harbor. Here begins a scene that is entirely new. Livingston possesses not a single store, not even a post-office. It is simply a place of residence. It has no boundary lines, and was itself unknown until the railroad established a stopping- place there and named it. Bard avenue, which leads up directly from the station, is one ot the finest thorough- fares on the island. Bordered on either side by delight- ful country residences, with wide sweeping lawns, it makes a charming road for walking or driving. The styles of architecture are varied ; each place has its own 33 individuality, and the view, althougli not possessing the breadth and sweep of other parts of the island, is nevertheless an ever-changing panorama. The road leads directly into the green country lanes and woods. Not the least notable resident on the avenue is George William Curtis, who is known far and wide as one of the most graceful and best-informed writers of the age. His cottage is an ideal country home, hidden from the road by a tall hedge, at the corner of Hen-derson avenue, the second road to the right from the shore. Several of the clubs are situated at Livingston. These are described under their general heading on page 17. The North Shore Tennis Club and the Staten Island Cricket Club are on Bard avenue. The gay dresses and flannels of the tennis-players, not to mention the pretty faces among the players and lookers-on, present a charming picture against the green fields and tempt one to linger near the grounds and watch the games. At Livingston, the Terrace is built up oh either side, but a walk of three minutes brings the pedestrian to a sudden turn in the road called the Grecian Bend, and another new picture holds the view. In the foreground is the boat-house of the Staten Island Athletic Club, con- nected with the road by a bridge which rises above the railroad track. To the left of the boat-house stretches the shore lined with green trees to a point where a cluster of houses and factories gives evidence of a nest of industries. Afar off the Kills seem to broaden and then to suddenly bring up against the land. To the right is part of the village of Bergen Point, and for the first time houses on the Jersey shore are clearly seen. Following the bend of the road the grounds and house of the Staten Island Athlete Club are passed, and on Wednesday and Satur- day the visitor, if fond of the national game, is apt to be attracted by the crowds which pass through the 34 35 •s grounds to the base-ball field. On the river the yellow and black of the club is seen flying from the mast- heads of the vessels belonging to the yacht squadron, or else the hornet-like gleam of a boating crew, the oars cutting the water and the bodies bending with the precision of clock-work, while the thin narrow shell fairly flies over the waves. West New Brighton is about a mile beyond Living- ston. It was once known as Factoryville and figures under that name on a few maps to this day. It is a charming place for residence, although the shore is occu- pied with stores on either side of the road. A stage line covering Broadway, Ca«tleton avenue and Colum- bia street runs to Four Corners or Castleton Corners and Eckstein's Brewery, according to the following schedule : IVes^ Brighton Stage to Four Corners. DAILY EXCEPT SUNDAY. Leave West Brighton, 6.40, 7.40, 8.40, 9.40 and 10.40 a.m.; 12.10, 1.40, 2.40, 3.40. 4.40, 5.40 and 7.10 p.m. Leave Eckstein's Brewery, 7.30, 8.30, 10.00, 10.30 and 11.30 a.m.; 1.30, 3.00, 4.00, 5.00, 6.00, 7.00 and 8.00 p.m. SUNDAYS. Leave West Brighton, 7.40, 8.40, 9.40 and 11. 10 a.m.; 12.40, 2.10, 3.10, 4.10, 5.10, 6.10 and 7.10 p.m. Leave Eckstein's Brewery, 8.30, 9.30 and 10.30 a.m.; 12.00 noon and 1.30, 3.30, 4.30, 5.30, 6.30, 7.30 and 8.30 p.m. {Fare, ten cents.) At West New Brighton is the Richmond County Sav- ings Bank and the Old Staten Island Dyeing Establish- ment. There are a number of well-furnished stores in .the village, and the new post-office is one of the most complete for its size in the country. Broadway is the first street to the right from the railroad station and connects with the Clove Road a mile and a half beyond (page 57). 36 Following the shore, notable objects of interest are the original building of the Y. M. C. A., which has been turned into a secular club. The Church of the Ascension, a few rods beyond on the right, was built a generation ago. It is cruciform in shape and built of Staten Island granite. The tower and spire are 115 feet high, which, with the elevation of the ground upon which the church is built, makes an imposing edifice. The first street beyond leads up to what is known as the Factory Pond, a pretty body of water which supplies the Dyeing Estab- lishment with water all the year and the small boy with skating in winter. The next avenue is Taylor street, one of the finest residence streets in West New Brighton, cool and shady, as the boughs form a perfect arch above the road. To the Islander, Richmond Terrace ends at Livingston and becomes the Shore road, although little changed except in name, and the tour above West New Brighton is known as "Up Shore." Therefore, Trinity M. E. church, at the next corner, is described as located on the Shore road and Dongan street. Don- gan street derives its name from the old colonial gover- nor of New York, who was commissioned in 1682 and chose Staten Island as his place of residence. The long square bounded by Dongan street on the east, by the Shore road on the north and Bodine street on the west, was the site of the governor s manor house, which was burned down a few years ago. The dirt heap in the center of the square may, therefore*, be considered a relic of the early history of our country. Two blocks beyond Dongan street is the Old Mill road, now com- monly known as Columbia street. Half a block more, and a small bridge over a creek which flows from the salt meadows on the left is crossed. This bridge is the dividing line between West New Brighton and Port Richmond. Across the meadows may be seen the build- 37 ings of the Water Works. These supply this portion of the Island with water, which the State Board of Health has declared of the most absolute purity. After crossing the bridge the road takes an abrupt turn to the right and crosses the railroad track, which leaves the shore at this point. Port Richmond is another charming village. The residences are fine and comfortable, although not so large as some passed along the shore. On the left side of the road, just across the track and adjoining the platform where passengers from St. George leave the train, is a large frame house. It is unpretentious, and apart from its age it seems to have no particular history. It is now known as the St. James Hotel, and is used by a few transient visitors ; but it derives historical importance from the death in one of the rooms up-stairs of Aaron Burr, September 14, 1836, in his eighty-first year. It is singular that the histories of Snug Harbor and Port Rich- mond, so near together, should again couple the names Hamilton and Burr. The Jewett White Lead Company's factory is on the right hand of the road a little further on where it again turns and follows close to the Kills. The road leads through the business portion of the water front. At the foot of the first street to the right is the Bergen Point ferry, which makes trips every 15 minutes to and fro. The road varies but little along the shore until Elm Park is reached ; Tower Hill being simply a place of residence. Elm Park is a favorite anchorage for oyster sloops. Across the water is seen the long drawbridge of the Jersey Central, and beyond the city of Newark. To the left the Orange Mountains line the horizon, and to the west is Elizabethport, which is distinctly seen as the visitor draws nearer to the bridge. Erastina became a noted resort when the Wild West 38 made its home there, and the railroad established it as the end of the line. The post-office at that point is Mariner's Harbor, but there is no station by that name. By reference to the map it will be seen that the salt meadows prevent any further excursion to the west- ward, and it is impossible to gain the Baltimore and Ohio bridge except by the railroad. Rowland's Hook, at the extreme northwest point of the Island, was originally called "Holland's Hock " on account of the Dutch set- tlement there. Hock meaning a point or corner. The island to the northwest is known as Shooter's Island, where a barrel factory is built, and the light-house where the waters of Newark Bay mingle with those of the Kills is the Bergen light, guarding a reef of dangerous rocks. Along the shore are a number of summer parks, which offer tempting clam-bakes to the hungry visitor at moderate rates. 41 CHAPTER II. . THE SOUTH SHORE. SL Geonse to South Beach The stations on this branch are for Tompkinsville, Stapleton, Clifton, Rosebank, Fort Wadsworth and Arrochar. Between Tompkinsville and St. George the water front is taken up by the railroad, the enormous Atlantic Cotton Docks, and the general supply depot of the Light-house Establishment. The walk alongside of the Casino at St. George and a turn down the first street to the left leads to the interesting branch of the Light-house Service, where ©-very article pertaining to the light-house, and indeed a complete light-house, erected for experimental purposes, may be seen. In the yard and at the docks are numerous buoys, light-ships an4 tenders. The ground is very high at this point and the railroad tunnels beneath it. The street on the left from St. George leads to the lower and upper Terraces. The former has been described in the foregoing chapter, and the second terrace, sometimes called St. Marks avenue, varies but little from it, except that the view is morj limited, houses being built on both sides of the street. The large square frame building on the upper Terrace, set back a hundred feet from the road, is the Brighton Heights Seminary for Girls. A little below the Semina y, on the opposite side of the street, is the Brighton Heights Reformed church, an off-shoot of the church on the North Side, organized in 1820. The winding road at the side of the church leads to Fort Hill. The large brick building which is seen to the 42 west on the brow of the opposite hill is the New Brighton Public School. The houses scattered in the valley between belong to New Brighton, and the great chim- neys and factories seen to the North are the Standard Oil Works on the Jersey shore ; the Kills, which flow between, being hidden by the intervening hills. The first street on the right of Westervelt avenue, going South, leads by the reservoir, the site of an old British fort, from which the hill receives its name. The first street, just half a block above the end of the lower Ter- race and the first street running parallel with the railroad track running into Tompkinsville, goes through the old Quarantine grounds. About the beginning of this cent- ury the yellow fever visited New York, and the commis- sion appointed by the Legislature secured this beautiful spot on the Island for quarantine purposes. As was nat- ural, the contagious diseases were not confined to the hospital, and the residents clamored for its removal. Owing to some outside influence, the wishes of the people were not respected. After the fearful visitation of yel- low fever in 1856 the residents became desperate, and finally, on the night of September ist and 2d, 1858, the citizens forcibly entered the Quarantine, and, after re- moving the patients, burned every building to the ground. The Governor of the State declared the Island in revolt, and the militia was called out, but the people remained masters of the situation. The Quarantine was moved to Seguin's Point, and afterwards to the two artificial islands in the lower bay, called Dix and Hoff- man. During the war, a number of rambling one-story buildings were erected on the grounds, where Union sol- diers were tended, and afterwards for a while the place was used g.s an infirmary. Not until a few years ago were the grounds opened for residence and a street cut through, thus removing all traces of that older time. }3 ToMPKiNSViLLE, named after Governor and Vice- President Daniel D.Tompkins, is three minutes' ride on the railroad from St. George. The New York Canoe Club and the Seawanhaka Yacht Club have houses at this point, the latter being a few feet from the old boat landing. Following the road leading from the station, Pavilion Hill, with its superb view, is reached. The Narrows with their guardian forts, the Long Island shore, and the wide expanse of the sea beyond make so lovely a picture that a lounger beneath one of the spreading trees on the summit can pass a delightful summer afternoon in watching the changing panorama and the stately procession of ocean steamers, yachts and other sailing craft, with saucy tugs acting as escort, and steamboats gliding with swan-like grace over the waters of the harbor. Passing along the brow of the hill to its further end a steep descent leads to a little lane which brings one to St. Paul's avenue, with the charming little church of the same name crowning another rise of the ground. From th!s point one may walk right into Staple- ton by taking the road to the left just beyond the church. Two minutes are consumed by the railroad between Tompkinsville and Stapleton. Stai'LETON is given up, near the railroad, to stores, and a very thriving, business-like place it is. A street-car line runs to Concord, the starting-point being directly next to the little park. The Staten Island Academy for Boys, and the German Club Rooms, where all the large balls and entertainments of the Island are held, are situated at this center. The residential portion differs from that of any other village on the Island, and has its distinctive features. The modern Queen Anne cottage, with gabled roof and fancy trimmings, is side by side with the square frame-house of half a century ago, each with its own particular interest, enjoying all the conveniences 44 of modern days. The Seamen's Retreat, on the shore road between Stapleton and Clifton, was established by the State Legislature, in 1831, and it is, as its name im- plies, a "Retreat" for the sick, crippled or old sea- men, whose days of usefulness afloat have past. Clifton was formerly best known as Vanderbilt's Landing. The railroad station is only two minutes' ride beyond Stapleton. It is at the north end of the village, which stretches along the shore. Persons wishing to drive, can find a livery stable at the gates of the station, where terms may be made for a day's drive at about one dollar per hour. A block above the station the railroad makes a turn to the right ; and Rosebank, part of Clifton, is two minutes away. Most of the residences lie to the east of the station. The Clifton Boat Club i"s about half way between the old steamboat landing and the fort. Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian patriot, was at one time a resident of Clif- ton, where he engaged in the manufacture of tallow candles at the factory of his friend, Meucci. The house is well known, and frequent pilgrimages to the shrine of the patriot are made by Italian residents of New York, A beautiful walk or drive extends from the Clifton station to the fort, along New York avenue. The first few blocks are given up to stores, but after- wards come green trees, rolling lawns and wooded parks, and the cool sea-breeze sweeps down the street. St. Mary's Roman Catholic church, the corner-stone of which was laid in 1857, is on this road. Further on is St. John's Episcopal church, a charming edifice of rose- colored Connecticut granite, built after the Gothic style of the fourteenth century, at a cost of $120,000. It is a pleasant reminder of many of the English parish churches which were built in the reign of Edward III. The boarding station of the Health Officer is at Clifton, Fort Wadsworth is a two minutes' ride beyond Rose- bank station. The name belongs properly only to the great stone fort which, while it overlooks the Narrows in a very threatening manner, is for all practical pur- poses of mod.rn warfare useless. Behind the fort rises a great grassy mound, the earthworks of Fort Tompkins, declared to be the finest in the country. The green mound, with its port-holes above and great doors beneath, is a singularly fascinating feature of the land- scape. The paths are laid out with tactical precision ; the officers' cottages are models of neatness and beauty, and the immense lawn, with a sentinel pacing here and there, makes a pleasant impression of army life on the civilian. Arrochar and South Beach.— To Arrochar by rail- road is two minutes ; by the road about fifteen minutes. The map shows the turns necessary to be made, though the only rule is to keep to the road nearest the shore. Arrochar or South Beach, with its crowd of merry- makers, is a miniature Coney Island. On Sundays and holidays the crowds number far up into the thousands, but there are times during the week when the beach is a most enchanting place for a summer day's picnic. Row- ing, sailing, fishing, bathing are a few of the water sports. Merry-go-rounds, and all the other attractions of a pleasure-ground are to be found. Several hotels have sprung up where meals may be procured, and booths of all kinds line the beach. Arrochar station is situated in a beautiful spot, and one of the attractions near by — picturesque in the extreme — is an old, ivy- covered tower which was built some years ago, and which looks like some old feudal^astle, strangely out of place. The place has become very popular of late, and a number of new houses have been recently erected in the vicinity. 47 CHAPTER III. THE INTERIOR. St. George to Totfenville, At Clifton the railroad leaves the shore and branches off toward the southwest. It is not at any point much over a mile from the beach. Grassmere is merely a station — the vicinity not being built up at all — with spreading meadow-lands on the left stretching toward the beach, and to the right rising hills and woods. Garret- son' s, just beyond, is a small settlement, with much the same general scenery as Grassmere, although the land- scape varies in its salient points. Lanes and woods offer opportunities for many delightful rides and strolls. Grant City. — This is the station nearest the old Mora- vian church and cemetery, with the Vanderbilt mauso- leum, which are reached by a few minutes' walk. The square white church in the cemetery is a comparatively modern building, having been erected within the past gen- eration, but to the right stands the old church and parson- age, built in 1763. The Moravian Society, or United Brethren, is a very old one on the island, having been es- tablished two hundred and fifty years ago. Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt gave more than fifty acres of the grounds to the Society. Just back of the cemetery, ad- joining the Society's property, is the Vanderbilt tomb. It was designed by Richard M. Hunt, and was erected at a cost of $200,000. The gabled front, built of Quincy granite, is 40 feet high and 50 feet wide. The rear is an immense grass-covered mound. Through the iron bars of the door in front can be seen the finely 48 finished interior and the stone which marks William H. Vanderbilt's resting-place, with the vacant spaces de- signed for those who will follow after. The tomb is near the old Vanderbilt farm, where, as a young boy and man, William H. Vanderbilt found opportunity, by his judicious management of the property and subse- quently of the Staten Island Railroad, to convince his father of his business capacity. The Vanderbilt fami y came to Staten Island from Flatbush, L. I., where they had settled about 1650. In 1718, Jacob Van der Bilt purchased a farm near New Dorp. The family became members of the Moravian Church. Cornelius Vander- bilt (the "Commodore") was born near Stapleton, May 27, 1794. He earned his first capital by doing a cer- tain amount of work within a certain time on his mother's farm. His mother, thinking it impossible for him to do the work within the time specified, offered him $100 if he would accomplish the task. He hired a number of boys on his promise to give them free trips in the boat he intended purchasing with the money. The work was done ; he bought a boat with the money and started a ferry to New York. Nineteen years later he was able to build a stately residence at Stapleton. On the hill, back of the tomb, rises a light-house, which shows in a line above Elm-tree light, at the foot of New Dorp lane, thus indicating the channel of the lower bay to the incoming pilot. New Dorp is but a few hundred feet beyond the old church, and an old fa: m-house on the way is worthy a minute's glance as a landmark of another age. The first road to the left leads to New Dorp station, and fol- lowing the lane the beach is about a mile away. At the end stands the light-house before mentioned, and a short distance to the right are Cedar Grove Beach and Pete- ler's Hotel, looking out upon the ocean. Stages run 49 from the station to the hotel, fare lo cents. Here a good meal may be procured and afterwards the tourist can enjoy a stroll along the sandy beach, fanned by cool sea breezes. In the vicinity of New Dorp are numerous shady walks and woodland nooks. Following the road past the Moravian church the county seat, Richmond, is reached. Stages for Richmond connect at New Dorp with trains leaving St, George at 7.45 and 9.25 a.m. and 3.55 and 5-35 p.m. A number of comfortable cottages have been built and are in the course of erection at New Dorp, and a pretty park has been laid out. To those who desire the open country, pure and simple, the place offers many advantages, and more especially to people of moderate means. Many persons doing business in New York reside at New Dorp, as the city is only three-quarters of an hour away and trains run very conveniently. The road leading to the west from the station runs into the Richmond road, which passes the Moravian church, and a turn to the left brings the visitor to the " Black Horse Tavern," which was famous during the days of the Revolution. The house has been partially rebuilt, but the old resort is worth a visit. Court House, the next stop, is only a station from whence a sandy road leads in a direct line to Rich- mond. During court week stages are run to the Court house. Gifford's is a famous fishing resort. From the sta- tion stages run to the beach and connect with the vari- ous hostelries. A bay is formed here called Great Kills, and during the season all kinds of good fishing may be had. There are a number of places in the vicin- ity where the intending fisherman may rest over night, so that an early start can be made, and boats can be 50 had in plenty along the beach at moderate rates. . Bait can also be obtained from the resident fishermen near the beach. Eltingville, the next station, is a small village. The Woods of Arden. — At this station stages con- nect with the trains for the Woods, most delightful grounds for a picnic of any kind, but particularly adapted for Sunday-school excursions, A dancing pavilion is within the Woods, tables and seats are scat- tered about, swings are numerous and from the grove a road leads to the beach which is long and sandy, with a wooded bluff for a picturesque background. In a retired corner of the grounds is situated the Arden Inn, a fine hostelry, where the best of everything may be had. Stabling accommodations are connected with the inn. The stops between the Woods of Arden and Prince's Bay are : Annadale, a small country place ; Ocean Park, a flag station ; and Hugue^iot, a small village, de- riving its name from the Huguenot church in the vic- inity. The Pleasant Plains stage line leaves Huguenot station for Rossville, Kreischerville and vicinity on the arrival of every train from St. George. Prince's Bay, the next stopping-place, is a great re- sort for fishermen, who find in the bay a good fishing- ground. Accommodations similar to those at Gifford's may be had. Pleasaiit Plains, about a mile further on, and Richmond Valley, a mile and a half beyond, are pleasant little villages. From the latter place a stage runs to Kreischerville. TOTTENVILLE is at the further end of the Island, one hour and fifteen minutes from New York. Within a block of the station is the ferry to Perth Amboy, New Jersey, where boats connect with every train from St. George. The most interesting historical object at Totten- 51 ville is the old Billop House (the " stone-house "), which was built about 1670 by Christopher Billop and has weath- ered the storms of more than two centuries (page 13). When General Howe, after the battle of Long Island, offered peace to the Continental government, the com- mittee appointed by Congress to treat with him (consist- ing of Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and Edv/ard Rutledge) met him in this house. The commission bore no fruit, as Howe refused to recognize them as official representatives of a belligerent power. He treated them, nevertheless, with distinguished courtesy, and sent them over to Perth Amboy in his private barge. The house was occupied by the British as a barracks during the Revolution, and altogether it is one of the most interesting historical relics on the Island. 52 ALONG MILL BROOK. 53 CHAPTER IV. PLACES NOT ON THE RAILROADS. Richmond is the county-seat of Richmond County, so called from the duke of that name. From New Dorp, from which station stages are run upon the ar- rival of every train, it is nearly two miles. The head- quarters of the British army during the Revolution were at Richmond, and many of the people in the vicin- ity were Tories. St. Andrew's Protestant Episcopal Church is rich in historical traditions. It obtained its charter from Queen Anne, who gave the Church a sil- ver service, a prayer-book and a pulpit-cover adorned with her name. It is one of the richest parishes on the Island, the income from its landed possessions being ample for its support. The present church occupies the site of the original building, and is the third erected thereon, the first having been burned shortly after the Revolution, During the War of Independence, the Queen's Rangers, a troop of Tories, were quartered in the old church, and the pulpit and the reading-desk were used as targets. A party of Americans once came over from Jersey and drove the troops to shelter in the church. Then, by pouring a volley through the windows, they drove them out again and took many prisoners, whom, however, they were obliged to release later on when British reinforcements arrived. In one corner of the old graveyard a son of Lord Dongan, the colonial governor of New York, lies buried, and some of the old tomb-stones have many curious inscriptions in verse upon them, dating back more than a hundred 54 years. A little way along the road, to the left of the church, rises a steep hill, lined with cedars, and at the top are the remains of the ol-d British fort Mount Izzard. Many old flint-locks and musket-balls have been dug up in that region. The hill commands a line view of the Island and the Jersey shore lying beyond the Arthur Kills. The village of Richmond is a delightfully primi- tive spot, and one can scarcely realize that New York City is so near. Here are the court-house and the county jail. The road to the left of Richmond is the Fresh Kill road, which runs alongside the wide marshes, extend- ing a couple of miles inward from the Arthur Kills. A bridge was once built across the marsh, but it has fallen into decay, and passing along the West Shore, from north to south, a detour of the marsh has to be made through Richmond. It was along this road that the Americans retreated after capturing the British at Richmond. A stage from New Dorp runs to Rossville on this thoroughfare ; but unless one is desirous of stopping at Richmond, there are shorter lines to the former place. The drive along here is very beautiful. The houses are all old, and in a picturesque condition of neglect. The country is country pure and simple, and no more rural spot, undisturbed by the noises of civilization can be found. The drive to Rossville is five miles. On theVay Green Ridge is passed, but one would never know he were passing through a " place " except for the sign which hangs in front of the solitary store. Rossville is on the West Shore, fronting on the Ar- thur Kills or Staten Island Sound. Rossville has no particular place in history. It is a pleasant village, de- cidedly out of the way of the tide of progress, and for that reason much loved by many of its residents. The old Ross House, or " Ross Castle," is one of the oldest 55 houses on the Island, and is still standing in good con- dition. Rossville is best reached by stage from Pleas- ant Plains. Kreischerville is a small place on Arthur Kill, between Tottenville and Rossville, a little more than a mile from Pleasant Plains. Kreischer's factory for refractory ware is at this point. Woodrow is a small village lying half-way between Pleasant Plains and Rossville, possessing nothing out of the ordinary. Other Interior Points. — Castleton Co7-ners, or, as it is popularly called, Four Corners, is about two miles from West Brighton station on the Manor road. Eck- stein's brewery is at this point, and a stage connects with the trains at West Brighton (for time-table see page 35). Following the Richmond turnpike, which crosses the Manor road at Castleton Corners, the village of Wil- low Brook is passed ; a little further on are Bull's Heaa or Pha:7iixviUe (for which see page 58) ; Travisville and Linoleumville, where there are large manufactories of linoleum and oil-cloth. From Port Richmond there is a stage line which connects with Linoleumville. The outlying lands in this vicinity are all marshy, and the road must be retraced to Travisville, from where, turn- ing northwest, Chelsea is reached. Due north from that point is B loom fie Id ; Sitinftierville is to the north- east, and from there to Graniteville is a short distance. From the latter place, the nearest railroad station is Elm Park. 56 A/\pOMl,c,|^'^ OH 57 CHAPTER V. DRIVES AND WALKS. Hacks may be obtained at any of the stations along the North and South shores and at St. George by tele- phone. From Tompkinsville the Richmond turnpike leads directly up from the station to Linoleumville. This must not be confounded with the Richmond road which is referred to later on. At Pavilion Hill the turnpike branches off to the left, skirting the foot of the hill, up past the De Jonge's paper factory, one of the leading industries of the Island. To reach Grimes Hill the tourist should take the road leading to the left of the factory, and turn to the right when the summit of the hill is reached. Along the Serpentine Road one of the finest views imaginable is disclosed. To the left, are New York and Brooklyn joined by the arching bridge, the Long Island shore seems but a short dis- tance away ; Coney Island and Brighton Beach, with the great wooden elephant and the high observatory, are seen distinctly in miniature ; the forts at the Nar- rows appear like playthings, and way down below Stapleton spreads out like a map. This view from Grimes Hill is famous for its varied beauty. To the right of the road are superb country residences. Fur- ther on the road winds through a dell down a steep hill, until it reaches the Clove road which crosses it at right angles. To rejoin the Richmond turnpike the tourist should turn to the right at the first cross-road. If he desires to prolong the drive he can turn down the Clove to the left, and the first road leading to the right is the Little Clove, where the Country Club is situated. Turning off the Little Clove at the first road to the left 58 and continuing on it, keeping all the ti.ne to the right, a hill is reached from whose summit a picture unfolds itself which fairly rivals the view from Grimes Hill. The road over the brow of the hill is called Ocean Ter- race and the hill Todt Hill. To the left is seen the spreading wood and meadow ; beyond are the Lower Bay with the two quarantine islands, Raritan Bay, Sandy Hook, the Jersey Highlands and the light-ship, and then far, far away, blue sky and sea fade into one. One never tires of the picture, for one is constantly searching for and discovering new beauties in it. A little further on, after a drive through a young wood, the very summit of the hill is reached. Here a road crosses at right angles. Again a beautiful view is had. To the right the Jersey shore, the little towns and the blue Orange Mountains, far away, but clear and dis- tinct as in a photograph. Following the cross-road to the right the Richmond turnpike is rejoined, and to the left the cross-road leads through valley and meadows, past some deserted iron mines, and over a hill to the Moravian church and cemetery and the Richmond road. From the little church, where the turnpike is again met, the road leads through Castleton Corners, Willow Brook and Phoenixville, where is the old Bull's Head Tavern. The original building is not standing, but its successor is quite as quaint and curious. The turnpike was once the Philadelphia post-road, along which the coaches rumbled from the ferry at Tompkinsville to the Blazing Star Ferry at the end of the road. The original ferry of that name was at Rossville, but after the estab- lishment of the post-road the location was changed. Along this road, in the olden day, ran the immense mail- coaches, with post-boy and horn. Wigged and powdered ladies and gentlemen looked out upon the same scene as is now passed and perhaps stopped a moment at the 59 Bull's Head Tavern to refresh the weary horses and no less weary passengers. From Tompkinsville, keeping to the turnpike all the way, there are many old houses going to decay, and when one of the stages now plying in that vicinity is seen from afar, the picture of the olden times seems perfect, until a closer inspection of the stage shows that it bears the honored title of *' Broadway and Fifth Avenue." At Linoleumville the road abruptly ceases, and no remains of the old ferry are seen. The road must therefore be retraced, unless one desires to turn off at Travisville and go through Chelsea and Bloomfield, once called by the old Indian name of *' Watchogue," on to Summerville, Graniteville and so to Port Richmond and along the shore to Tompkins- ville again. Silver Lake is a well-known locality on Staten Island, to reach which the first road to the right be- yond the paper factory, on the Richmond turnpike going southwest, must be taken. It is a beautiful, fresh water pond, girdled with green lily-pads. A restaurant and picnic grounds are in the vicinity, and boats are to let. For pedestrians, there are, besides the routes de- scribed, beautiful rambles, few of the places of interest leading the tourist more than five or six miles from the railroad, a distance which is nothing to a good walker. Silver Lake is about a mile from Tompkinsville, nestled in the wild woods. A mile from West Brighton station, turning up the first road to the left, is a chain of little lakes, where an old mill and wheel are to be found, with other picturesque accessories, and through the woods and over the hills one may ramble for hours. In fact, from every point pleasant walks may be taken, and nearly everywhere can be found a summer garden or inn where refreshments may be obtained. The route /rout Neiv York to Perth Amboy, via Staten Island^ is the least expensive^ is quick and comfortable^ and is steadily growing in popularity.