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 Overland 
 
 *9iR? 
 
 1 
 
 Journey /o California 
 
 
 Journal of James Bennett Whose Party Left 
 
 New Harmony in J850 and Crossed 
 
 the Plains and Mountains until 
 the Golden West was 
 
 Reached 
 
 
 New Harmony, Indiana. 
 1906 
 
 Times Print 
 
 ^Z 
 
 ^/O -•*'•' .i=C^^v 
 
 t^iC^^i) 
 
 Mm^^>^-^>^^^^^^^r'^mm;;^^ 
 
•1S43 
 
 Printed in an edition of 
 
 200 copies 
 
 from the files of the 
 
 New Harmony Times 
 
 wherein the journal appeared 
 
 serially March i6- August 3. 1906 
 
 EDWARD EBERSTADT 
 55 West 42nd Street, New York 
 
5 T ^ 
 
 ^ Journal of James Bennett Whose Party Left New Harmony in 1850 ^ 
 
 ^ aod Crossed Plains and Mountains until the Golden West was Reached V 
 
 Overland Journey to California. I 
 
 A FOREWORD. 
 
 James Bennett, whose journal of the 
 overland trip to California in 1850 the 
 Times will publish, died December 14, 
 1869 in the fifty sixth year of his ai/e. 
 He was a member of Robert Owen's 
 community and attended the School of 
 Industry where he learned the art of 
 printinjf. In 184C he established in 
 New Harmony the Western Atlas but 
 subsequently chanjfed it to the Glean- 
 er. It was under his tuteletje that the 
 veteran editor, the late Charles Slater, 
 learned the art of the printer and it is 
 worthy of notice that the first type Mr. 
 Slater set was for James Bennett and 
 the last type that Mr. Bennett set was 
 for Charles Slater. Beinjf a journal- 
 ist when that title meant its possessor 
 possessed literary ability, we can look 
 for an ably written and well told nar- 
 rative. The journal is in the quaint 
 style of penmanship taui^ht threescore 
 years ajfo and is as lejfible as print. 
 The outside pages are faded by water 
 which shows that the journal has at 
 sometime been exposed to the elements. 
 The party that left New Harmony on 
 the first day of April, 1850 was compos- 
 ed of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Bolton, 
 William Bolton, William Pritchard, 
 Miles I{;dmonds,G.'orift' Hamilton. John 
 Mills, Mr. Oaizmai), Mr. Sweesey, wife, 
 daug'hter and son. Jonathan Jackson, 
 John O'Neal, Mitch O'Neal, William 
 Faulkner, Ira Lynns and James Ben- 
 net,t. 
 
 Tlie journal says that the first day's 
 task lay in crossing- the Wabash river. 
 On the Illinois bank the party rested 
 and went into camp, their first uifjht 
 under the canopy of heaven, a canopy 
 tJiat was to be their only cover ior the 
 next six months; a half year full of 
 strange experiences and fraught with 
 i more dangers than one can now find in 
 I the whole wide world. 
 f The final leave taking before the ar- 
 gonauts began their journey we.stward, 
 I was said here and goodbyes werespok- 
 ! en with voices broken by grief and eyes 
 I blinded with tears. The plunge into 
 I the western wilderness was here to com- 
 I mence and manv were the misgivings 
 asoldfrieod held old friend's hand 
 and relative saw their kith and kin de- 
 parting on a voyage beset with un- 
 known terrors. 
 
 The scene that was witnessed on the 
 banks of the placid Waliasii thit 
 Spring night was full of color. Flam- 
 ing camp fires illuminated a back- 
 ground composed of huge covered 
 wagons and mild eyed oxen grazinir 
 passively on the forests of canes and 
 rushes tliat once covei-ed Fox Island. 
 The I'uddy glow shone sparkling up- 
 on the bosom of the river and exposed 
 the course for the canoes loaded with 
 friends who were coming to speak a 
 last farewell The journal says the 
 argonauts and visitors danced upon 
 the grassy bank of the river and pass- 
 
eil the last ni^ht in an atteiuplto drive 
 awa.v painful reflections. 
 
 siuch a scene of this will always live 
 in the niemor.v of the one who witness- 
 ed it and no doubt there yet lives in 
 New Harmony someone who took part 
 in that last night. The placid river, 
 the ruddy fires and the animated 
 ji-roupsl Some eager with anticipation 
 of what the journey would bring forth; 
 the balance despondent over the part- 
 
 ing. The cane-brakes pressing close- 
 ly around and perhaps affording cov- 
 ert for the stealthy panther and skulk- 
 ing wolf that then lurked in these 
 parts and which looked with curiosity 
 upon the scene; while over all the star- 
 ry firmament shed its light, a light 
 that was to pour its glamour over them 
 until the land of the setting sun was 
 reached. -EDITOR Times. 
 
 Journal of James Bcnnt-tt Whose Party Left New Harmony in 1850 
 and Crossed Plains and Mountains until the Golden West was Reached 
 
 T^ft New Harmony, Indiana April 
 Isl 18.50, having eight wagons to cross 
 tlip Wabash. The day was so far ad- 
 vanced that we camped on the opposite 
 shore still in view of the place of start- 
 ing: our friends paid us a parting vis- 
 it after sun set. the evening was spent 
 in dancing under the shelter of a large 
 sycamore, by firelight. 
 
 Tuesday, 2od:-Breakfast at an early 
 hour and prepared for a final leave of 
 the folks at the river landing. Lyons 
 and myself started on in advance to 
 provide game for the party, saw a 
 number t)f wild turkeys in the morning 
 but were unfortunate in shooting at 
 them. We proceeded on the road 
 leading to Grayville until we reached 
 French Creek bridge where we cooked 
 our dinners and determined to wait till 
 the wagons overtook us, fearful that 
 some accident might have hai)pened to 
 them on crossing Fo.x River. We had 
 suceeded in securing a suHicient supply 
 of game and we filled up our time in 
 dressing it for supper. The wagon* 
 came up in about an hour and a half. 
 We reached Grayville that evening 
 where we camped for th'^ night, here 
 the first guard was set. It commenced 
 
 raining and continued without inter- 
 ; mission during the night. 
 
 Wednesday.3rd: -Wednesday showers 
 all day. We reached Albion, 111., at 2 
 o'clock in a severe hailstorm. Here 
 another person, a Mr. Spencer, was 
 added to our party Encamped about 
 two miles out on the Maysville road. 
 
 Thurs. 4th: Weather fair during the 
 day. I proceeded as usual in advance 
 of the train on a hunting excursion; a- 
 bout two hours before sundown I got a 
 shot at a deer and wounded it badly 
 but the day was too far spent to follow 
 it and consequently lost it. Pitched 
 our tent for the night at a Mr. Shelby's. 
 
 Friday 5th:-Rain set in again this 
 morning and continued at intervals 
 throughout the day. Our route was 
 through marshy prairies, the o.^en 
 frequently sinking to their middles in 
 mud and water and being mostly un- 
 iiroken cattle, the men were compelled 
 to follow them in all their windings. 
 The party arrived at Fox River com- 
 pletely drenched, had considerable 
 difficulty in crossing the bridge, it was 
 
 
 1'^ 
 
'in very bad state of repair so we were 
 compelled to ford the stream. That 
 nijcht three of us wore started in ad- 
 vance to make arranjfements for feed- 
 inff the cattle; we succeeded in finding 
 some but the train was unable to reach 
 the place, so we returned to the place 
 of encamping, two miles back. 
 
 Saturday (Jth: Travelled 12 miles, 
 had a good breakfast. Passed Mays- 
 ville at 1' o'clock and continued on to a 
 farmhouse. Camped a mile and a half 
 furthur on in the middle of Twelve 
 Mile Prairie. The weatlier was fair to- 
 day and the road very good. In pass- 
 ing through the strii»s of woodland we 
 killed plenty of sijuirrels for supper. 
 
 Sunday 7th: Continuing our journey 
 across Twelve Mile Prairie, saw a great 
 number of prairie cliickens but could 
 not approach them within shootingdis- 
 tance. This morning I was persuaded 
 by a number of our party to take out 
 my shot-gun instead of ray rifle and 
 try for small game. 1 soon found I 
 had made a mistake for I had not L'One 
 far until I was in fair rifle shot of two 
 deer feeding at their leisure on the 
 prairie. About 12 oclock the wagons 
 overtook me and I took the opportuni- 
 ty to change my gun. 1 succeeded about 
 4 oclock in killing a fine deer, it was 
 not far from the road and was .=oon 
 carried to our encampment, on one of 
 the horses. Weather cool and fair. 
 
 Monday Sthr-Last night the .attle 
 were without feed. We started early 
 and travelled three or four miles be- 
 fore breakfast. At 10 oclock we did 
 ample justice to the vension I had kill- 
 ed the day before having made way 
 with both the hams at one meal. Our 
 
 route for the last three days has been 
 principally through prairie country, 
 with occasional intervening strips of 
 woodland, from a quarter to a mile in 
 width in all of which we have managed 
 to procure an abundant suuply <>^ 
 small game. We encamped in one of 
 these strii)S to-night where we found 
 plenty of wood, water and feed for the 
 cattle. 
 
 Tuesday !tth:-Tiiis morning we com- 
 menced crossing an arm of the (Jrand 
 Prairie, 20 miles wide-. In passing a- 
 long the telegraph wii-e e.xtending from 
 Vincennes to St. Louis, we saw hun- 
 dreds of snipes fiying in Hocks over 
 the prairie anM frequently striking the 
 wire with such force as to kill them in- 
 stantly; we picked up four that we saw 
 killed in this manner, out of one flock. 
 Their wings were strewed all alojig 
 the road across this prairie, having 
 been cut ofT as clean as it cojld be 
 done with a knife. This was altogeth' 
 er a disagreeable day. Tiie morning 
 set in cold and cloudy and when we 
 had traveled three or four miles out 
 (in the prairie it commenced snowing 
 I slightly, but changed to rain in the 
 afternoon. We got through a little 
 before sunset and encamped on a hill- 
 ! side near a farm house. 
 
 Wednesday I0th:-Last night the 
 weather cleared up and when we com- 
 menced our journey this morning it 
 was cold and frosty. Crossed the 
 Okaw, at Carlisle, 9 o'clock, A. M. 
 Mr. Mills. Coombe and myself went 
 on ahead of the train to hunt in a strip 
 of woodland, four miies from Carlisle, 
 where we parted and took different 
 directions in pursuit of game. We 
 had not been long separated when I 
 
heard the report of a rifle and having 
 soon come up with Mr. Coombe, 1 
 found that he had killed a deer, which 
 I helped him carry to the road, where 
 we met the train and placed it in one 
 of the wagons Crossed the bridge 
 over Shoal Creek, at 3 o'clock and en- 
 camped near the fork of the Alton and 
 St Louis roads. We taking the road 
 to Alton. 
 
 Thursday 11th: -We had another 
 severe frost last night and found ice 
 on a small pond a quarter of an inch 
 thick. Commenced our journey again 
 after breakfast and passed over a 
 prairie four miles wide. Saw a num- 
 ber of prairie chickens, wild ducks and 
 snipes but all too wild to be approach- 
 ed within gun shot. Passed through 
 Looking Glass Prairie (8 miles wide 
 where we crossed) and encamped on a 
 beautiful clear creek, with plenty of 
 wood near at hand, about a mile and 
 a half in the timber; making in all 18 
 miles travel to-day. The day was 
 clear and pleasant and by the time we 
 reached our place of encampment we 
 had killed plenty of rabbits, squirrels 
 and other small game for supper. 
 
 Friday 12th:-This morning when we 
 awoke we found the weather cold and 
 cloudy with some indications of rain 
 Passed through Troy, four mi>les from 
 our place of encampment at 10 o'clock. 
 We had a slight shower in the morn- 
 ing, which soon passed over, however, 
 and we commenced crossing another 
 pr&irie, 5 miles wide, with a cold 
 north west wind blowing in our faces. 
 Stopped at a farm, in the middle of the 
 prairie, at 12 o'clock, to feed our cattle 
 and take a lunch. Passed through 
 Edwardsville, 7 miles from Troy, at 
 
 .3 o'clock. Called at the printingoffice 
 in this place and was politely furnish- 
 ed with a late p.-iper, by the proprietor. 
 Encamped Smiles from Edwardsville 
 and nine southeast of Alton. 
 
 Saturday 13th-Weather still cold, 
 but olear. Directly after leaving our 
 encampment this morning, we had to 
 pass along the borders of a small 
 praii ie with ^ lake in the middle of it, 
 for about two miles with a cold north- 
 west wind blowing in our faces. In 
 fact, I have seldom suffered more with 
 cold than I did this morning, in this 
 exposed situation. Reached Alton at 
 11 o'clock and wrote a letter home. 
 Here we were persuaded from our 
 original intention of crossing the 
 Mississippi on account of a scarcity of 
 feed for cattle through Missouri, and 
 struck for Hannibal, 100 miles further 
 north Encamped on a small creek 8 
 liiiles north of Alton. . 
 
 Sunday 14th-For the last two days. 
 owing to wind and cold weather, we 
 have been entirely unsuccessful in 
 hunting. Mills and I started early 
 this morning, to endeavor if possible 
 to procure game. The weather cloud- 
 ed up and we had a regular snow 
 storm, which lasted all day, covering 
 the ground to a depth of three inches. 
 Arrived at .Jersey ville at 3 o'clock, 
 having travelled 12 miles. Stopped at 
 a farm house half a mile from town, 
 where we had the convenience of a 
 barn to sheller us from the storm dur- 
 ing the night Killed G rabbits, but 
 had no means of cooking them this 
 evening. 
 
 Monday 15th-When we awoke this 
 morning we found the snow had en- 
 
tirely ceased and the day bid fair to 
 be clear. We delayed starting how- 
 ever, for three or four hours. In the 
 iDe:.ntime, Hamilton, Lyon and my- 
 self were invited to g'ive some music at 
 the tavern in Jersey ville. We ac- ' 
 cepted, played a few tunes on our in- I 
 truments and prepared to leave at 10 
 o'clock. The sun once more broke 
 forth clear and beautiful, and the 
 snow entirely disappeared in the 
 course of two hours. Passed through 
 a prairie for 5 miles to the town of 
 Cain. One mile more brought us to 
 heavy timbered woodlan'd and after 
 traveling three miles further encamp- 
 ei on the bank of a creek. When we 
 had fairly settled down at our encamp- 
 ment in the evening, we were suddenly 
 alarmed by the cry of fire Mr. 
 Mitchell's wagon cover had taken fire 
 from a candle placed inside. It was 
 soon extinguished with but little dam- 
 age. 
 
 Tuesday lOth-Rain set in early in 
 the morning and a council being held, 
 we concluded to stop till the rain was 
 over. Rain all day. Being in the 
 neighborhood of a saw mill, we bor- 
 rowed some plank and erected a shed 
 to cook under. Towards night we be- 1 
 came apprehensive that the creek, 
 which had already commenced foam- i 
 ing at a furious rate, would inundate 
 our camp ground. Our fears were i 
 groundless, however, for near mid- j 
 night the rain ceased, the foaming wa- ; 
 ters began to subside and on I 
 
 Wednesday nth- We resun)ed our ; 
 journey and passed through Carrolton j 
 4 miles on our way 12 o'clock. This ; 
 we found to be quite a flourishing lit- j 
 tie village, containing two printing of- j 
 fices, a large court house and a num- . 
 
 ber of merchantile houses. There was 
 also a brass band in this place, said 
 to be very good. Encamped in a 
 beautiful valley, surrounded with 
 high bluffs, within five miles of the 
 Illinois river, having traveled about 
 I'd miles • 
 
 Thursday ISth-Commenced crossing 
 a low marshy prairie. 5 miles wide, 
 with the high cliflFs bordering the 
 northern bank of the Illinois, in full 
 view in the distance. Saw a great 
 number of wild geese and ducks but 
 they were very shy, and would take 
 flight whenever we attempted to ap- 
 proach them. Mr. Combe succeeded 
 killing a goose. Arrived on the bank 
 of the river about 11 o'clock and were 
 detained three or four hours in cross- 
 ing. After dinner we again coramenc. 
 ed winding our way between high 
 rocky bluff's for S or 4 miles, and had 
 considerable difficulty in crossing the 
 small creeks in our way. We crossed 
 one more than a dozen times within the 
 space of a mile and finally missed the 
 road. By inquiry at a farm house, we 
 learned that we could strike the main 
 road again by going 7 miles out of our 
 course on the trail that we were then 
 following and we concluded to keep on. 
 After ascending a very high bluff, 
 which tested the strength of our teams 
 to the utmost, we encamped for the 
 night The proceeds of todays hunt 
 was 13 squirrels and a goose. 
 
 Friday 19th-A slight rain began to 
 fall at 7 o'clock this morning. Mr. 
 Mills killed a deer soon after 
 starting and seeing it deposited in one 
 of the wagons, we again started in ad- 
 vance of the train. After traveling 
 about 7 miles in which we had con- 
 siderable difficulty in tracing a blind 
 
track we again reached the main road. 
 Our road now which was very good, 
 wound through the bluffs to every 
 point of the compass, for 6 miles, until 
 we reached Bay Creek, in the Missis- 
 sippi bottoms where we encamped. 
 Rain all day. 
 
 Saturday 20th- We continued our 
 course along the foot of the bluffs 
 which we crossed yesterday, in nearly 
 a north-west course for 10 miles until 
 we reached ihe town of Atlas, within 
 6 miles of Louisiana on the Mississip- 
 pi, where we turned due west and en- 
 camped at a deserted log house on 
 Cockle-burr creek 3 miles from Atlas, 
 making 13 miles. In the eveaing quite 
 a number of country people, both la- 
 dies and gentlemen, were attracted to 
 the camp by our music and the even- 
 ing was passed in dancing, in which 
 our visitors joined us. Recitations 
 were also given by Mr. Jackson and 
 sinirins^- bv a number of the Corripany. 
 Our visitors retired at 11 o'clock high- 
 ly delij^hted. The weather today was 
 cloudy but pleasant. The proceeds of 
 our hunting was 18 squirrels and a 
 rabbit, all of which we had cooked in 
 good style for supper. 
 
 Sunday 21st-After traveling 3 miles 
 this morning over a low marshy 
 prairie where the wagon wheels would 
 often sink to the hubs in mud and 
 water, we reached the Mississippi at 
 Louisiana, Mo., at 10 o'clock and 
 crossed in a steam ferry-boat. The 
 time occupied in crossing the train 
 was 3 hours. After purchasing a few 
 necessary articles for the journey we 
 commenced moving again at 1 o'clock. 
 The weather which was cloudy but 
 quite pleasant during the morning had 
 
 now become oppressively hot: and 
 what with bad roads, u probability of 
 no feed for our jaded cattle and a 
 thunder storm coming up in the dis- 
 tance, the prospect was gloomy indeed. 
 We at last succeeded in purchasing 
 some corn and straw and encamped on 
 a clear creek, between two high bluffs 
 () miles from Louisiana The storm 
 came upon us soon after our fires 
 were kindled which delayed our cook- 
 ing for some time and we retired to 
 our tents and wagons after a lute sup- 
 per. 
 
 Monday 22nd-The rain continued at 
 intervals in hard showers tiiroughoul 
 last night but ceased entirely at 7 o- 
 clock this morning when we set out on 
 our journey again, through very bad 
 roads and only made about twelve 
 miles all day. 
 
 Tuesday 23rd-The weather cleared 
 up again last night and we had a hard 
 frost. Ice was formed on the little 
 pools of water near our encampment. 
 Mills and I started ahead of the wag- 
 ons again today on a hunting excur- 
 sion, but we had only gone about 3 
 miles when we jeame to a very bad 
 place in the road for a quarter of a 
 mile and we determined to seek a bet- 
 ter way and stop to pilot the train 
 through We succeeded in tracing out 
 a verv good route and the wagons got 
 through with but little difficulty. 
 Passed through two small villages. 
 Spencersburg and Madisonville and 
 encamped 2 miles out in a prairie. 
 
 Wednesday 24th- Another severe 
 frost last night. Our road this morn- 
 ing passed over a wet prairie for 8 
 miles which we got through in about 
 
five hours and reached the timber 
 again at 11 o'clock, where we stopped 
 to rest our cattle. Traveled 8 or f) 
 miles after dinner over prairie and 
 timber land and encamped for the 
 night on a small creek within two miles 
 of Salt river. 
 
 Thursday 25Lh-Forded Salt river at 
 8 o'clock a. lu. and reached Piiris at 4 
 p. m. After a fruitless search for feed 
 for the cattle, we were compelled to 
 stop, nig-ht having overtaken us 2.J 
 miles from Paris. Nothwithstanding 
 the day was warm and sultry and the 
 roads in a bad order, we traveled 16 
 or 17 miles The evening was mild 
 and pleasant and for the first time this 
 season we heard the notes of the whip- 
 poorwill. 
 
 Friday 56th- We have had but few 
 really pleasant mornings since we left 
 home. When not damp, rainy and 
 otherwise disagreeable the weather has 
 been cold to such a degree that it has 
 often been with considerable reluc- 
 tance that we have left our comfortable 
 campfires to encounter another weari- 
 some day's journey. This morning 
 however, a soft southern breeze greet- 
 ed us as we emerged into a high, benu- 
 tiful prairie giving us new life and 
 energy. That portion of Missouri 
 which we have already passed over is 
 a liilly and barren country; but within 
 a day or two these have given place 
 to rich and fertile farms and a denser 
 population. On account of poor fare 
 last night for our cattle, we stopped 
 somewhat earlier than usual, having 
 found hay cheap and plentiful and a 
 good range for them in a woods pas- 
 ture during the night. We traveled 
 
 about 14 miles today. 
 
 Saturday 27th-Left our encampment 
 this morning at 7 o'clock. At 9 
 o'clock a part of our wagons were de- 
 tained at a small town called Milton, 
 to have some repairs done. They re- 
 joined us again at 1 o'clock; we hav- 
 ing stopped to wait for them. Passed 
 through Huntsville at 4 o'clock and 
 encamped a mile and a half out. Here 
 we had intended to turn more south 
 and cross the Missouri at Glasgow; 
 but we were advised tu the contrary 
 and kept the main traveled route. We 
 were unfortunate in the selection of 
 our camping ground this evening. A 
 rain storm came upon us just at dark, 
 which lasted all night, and in the 
 morning we found ourselves in a com- 
 plete mud-hole. 
 
 Sunday 28th-We had considerable 
 difficulty in cooking our breakfast in 
 the rain and did not start until 10 o'- 
 clock. Traveled 4 miles in a hard 
 rain and having found a high piece 
 of ground on the bank of a creek with 
 plenty of wood and good grazing for 
 the cattle, we encamped. A large log 
 fire was soon kindled from a dead wal- 
 nut tree which we felled on the spot 
 and as it sent up its crackling flames 
 among the dry branches, diffusing its 
 warmth around, cheerfulness soon as- 
 sumed its place on many gloomy coun- 
 tenances, and the hardships of the 
 morning were forgotten. The weather 
 cleared up again the evening. The 
 stars once more broke forth, bright 
 and beautiful and we enjoyed Our log 
 fire with a degree of pleasure which 
 those accustomed to similar comforts 
 at home must, be entire strangers to. 
 A party of Germans, numbering 12 or 
 
14 persons were encamped in about a i 
 hundred yards of us and seemed to en- | 
 joy themselves vastly in singing some 
 of their native songs which were 
 translated in part for us by Mr. Otz- 
 man. 
 
 Monday 29th-Our progress was slow 
 this morning owing to muddy roads. 
 After a drive of four miles we stopped 
 at a farm to feed our cattle. One mile 
 further on we came to a high rolling 
 prairie where we found the road very 
 good and concluding that the wagons 
 would of course cross, it being only 
 7 miles, Mr. Mills, Lyon and myself 
 went on in advance with our guns. 
 When we had proceeded over 5 miles, 
 we learned by a gentlemau who over- 
 took us on horseback, that our com- 
 pany had encamped for the night 4 
 miles back. We consequently had to 
 retrace our steps and rejoined our 
 companions at sun-set. 
 
 Tuesday 30th-The wind blew a per- 
 fect hurricane during a part of last 
 night and this morning when I took 
 ray station on the watch at 3 o'clock, 
 dark heavy clouds were lloating past, 
 nearly obscuring the light of a full 
 moon and with the rautterings of dis- 
 tant thunder gave indications of an 
 approaching storm. I called up all 
 hands at 4 o'clock in order to have 
 breakfast before the storm broke upon 
 us, which it did in about two hours 
 just as we were leaving our encamp- 
 ment. It cleared away, however, in a 
 short time and gave place to a cold, 
 north wind which lasted the remainder 
 of tlie day, bringing overcoats and 
 gloves in requisition. After traveling 
 ten miles we passed through a miser - 
 
 able, dilapidated looking town, called 
 Keytesville, situated in a strip of 
 woods, si.x miles wide, between two 
 prairies. Seven miles further on 
 and we encamped at a place called In- 
 dian Grove, four miles out in a 
 prairie. 
 
 Wednesday May Ist-I forgot to 
 mention that we passed a place a day 
 or two ago, where a person had kept a 
 correct account of the number of Cali- 
 fornia wagons which had passed on 
 this road the present season, bound 
 for St. Joseph's. According to liis 
 list the number had already reached 
 TOT). In fact, we can hardly travel a 
 mile now, without coming upon the dy- 
 ing embers of some recent encamp- 
 ment. We were occupied some time 
 j this morning in collecting our cattle 
 i and made a late start. Although the 
 road was very good, passing over 
 I high rolling ground, called Chariton 
 Prairie, we only traveled 10 miles. 
 Encamped early on the bank of a 
 small stream called Salt Creek, which 
 as its name indicates we found so 
 strongly impregnated with salt that 
 we wrere corfipelled" tb make use of 
 water from an adjoining pond for 
 Goeking puirposes . 
 
 Thursday 2nU-We started early this 
 morning, stopping oar course for the 
 ferry on Grand River, eight miles dis- 
 tant, where we arrived at noon over 
 one of the worst roads we have passed 
 on the route. This river, as I was in- 
 formed by the ferryman is 200 yards in 
 width. We were detained .3 hours in 
 crossing and encamped a quarter of a 
 mile from the river in the edge of a 
 prairie. Game of all kinds has been 
 
very scarce since we crossed into 
 Missouri. We saw several deer, how- 
 ever, yesterday and to-day and Mr. 
 Combe killed a turkey. We have jfen. 
 erally mauaired arnonjf us to keep up a 
 pretty {{ood supi)]y of small game. 
 
 Friday 3rd-Rain set in early in the 
 raornin>f and lasted nearly all day 
 We had some difficulty in collecting 
 our cattle and di^l not start till i» o'- 
 clock. Traveled 14 miles entirely 
 throutfh prairie and encamped in a 
 point of timber half a mile from the 
 main road. 
 
 Saturday 4th-For the last three or 
 four days we have found it utterly im- 
 possible to buy feed of any kind for 
 the cattle and they have had to subsist 
 entirely on j^rass, which is very sliort^ 
 the season having' been backward. 
 We traveled V.i miles today entirely 
 through prairie and encamped on 
 Shoal Creek, running through a strip 
 of heavy timber, where we found an 
 abundance of excellent grass. 
 
 Sunday r)th-We fo^jnd the grass at 
 this point so good that we concluded 
 to remain here today and recruit oiir 
 cattle. The day vvas spent by >ome 
 hunting and tishing- ami by ()th<-;rs 
 washing clothes. The hunters and 
 fishermen were entirely unsuccessful. 
 Mr. ( 'ombe wounded a deer late in the 
 evening, and in attempting to f(;llo\v 
 it got lost. Suspecting that such 
 migiit be the case we tired a numljer of 
 guns and directed by these ami th- 
 campfires, he made his appearand' a- 
 mong us again at 8 o'clock in the 
 evening 'J'he German company men- 
 tioned on the vStli ult.. overtook us 
 again today and encamped near us. 
 
 A number of California wagons stop- 
 ped here during the day. A number 
 of visitors were attracted to our camp 
 in the evening' by our music. Our 
 lierman friends also gave us another 
 specimen of their singing and a gientlo- 
 man with one of the parties who 
 arrived here today gave us a re-rular 
 rake down on the violin, in real back- 
 woods style. 
 
 Monday (ith I did not mention in its 
 proper place that we struck into what 
 is called the Old Mormon trail at 
 Keytesville. The road whi-h has been 
 juostly through prairie, has been very 
 good ever since- We traveled l-") miles 
 today and encamped half a mile from 
 the main road. Our German friends 
 stopped with us again and were very 
 kind in furnishing us with some Hour, 
 ours having given out. 
 
 Tuesday 7th-V\'e were visited by an- 
 other rain storm shortly after we had 
 retired to rest last night. Early this 
 morning snow commenced falling in 
 big flakes and lasted for 2 or '.i hours. 
 The weather cleared up again at 11 
 o'clock, but we did not move from our 
 encampment. After dinner a number 
 of us struck oft" in difterent directions 
 on a hunting e.xcursion. We met with 
 but little success except in the way of 
 small game. One of our hunters dis- 
 covered a water mill about a mile dis- 
 tant wnere we were enabled to pur- 
 chase a small quantity of flour. 
 
 Wednesday 8th- When we set out on 
 our journey this morning it was in- 
 tended to make but a moderate days 
 drive; but we found it impossible to 
 select a place to graze our cattle til) 
 after sun-set; having traveled 17 (jr 18 
 
miles over a bad road. In passing 
 alonjf tiie side of a hijfli rocky bluff, 
 the sprinjf wajjon containinff the lady 
 passenjfers upset in a mud-hole and 
 we had considerable difficulty in plac- 
 ing it in an upright position a;^ain. 
 Foi tunately for the ladies no bones 
 were brol<en and but little damajje was 
 done. Passed through Kingston at 4 
 p. m. 
 
 Thursday 9th-Infoimation having 
 reached us last nighi by a person just 
 returned from St. Joseph's of consid- 
 eral suffering in that place in conse- 
 qnence of a scarcity of feed for cattle 
 we determined to leave the main road 
 in search of grass and stop for a week. 
 We accordingly shaped our course 
 due north four miles and encamped 
 on Shoal Creek, where we found the 
 grazing tolerably good. In passing 
 through a heavily timbered piece of 
 low ground, covered by a thick un- 
 dergrowth of buck-eye now in full leaf, 
 in pursuit of game T came upon the 
 track of a large bear; the first indica- I 
 tions we have had of the presence of 
 this animal on the road. I 
 
 Friday lOth-Much dissatisfaction 
 has existed in the company for several 
 days past in consequence of delay and 
 some other minor matters and this 
 morning it was so strongly manifested 
 that Mr. Swoasy, the leader of the ex- 
 pedition called the men together and 
 stated the impropriety of moving on 
 under the present aspect of affairs at 
 St. Josephs iind informed the company 
 that it was his intention to proceed 
 immediately on horseback to head- 
 quarters, where he could judge for 
 himself of the expediency of any 
 further delay. Good feeling soon pre- 
 
 vailed again after this declaration on 
 the part of Mr. Sweasy and he set off 
 in the course of an hour, in company 
 with Mr. Pullyblank for St. Josephs 
 after appointing Mr Lyon to superin- 
 tend the affairs of the company in his 
 absence. During the 11th, 12th, and 
 13th, the time was spent In hunting, 
 fishing, repairing wagons, etc. On 
 the 14th about noon, Messrs. Sweasy 
 and Pullyblank returned with quite 
 favorable news and stating also their 
 determination to resume the journey 
 again on the following da.v. 
 
 Wednesday 15th- We were called up- 
 for an early start this morning but 
 our cattle had wandered far out in 
 the prairie and much time was occu- 
 pied in collecting them; consequently 
 we did not leave till between eight and 
 nine o'clock. We made about 14 miles 
 however, mostly through an uneven 
 prtirie country with limestone appear- 
 ing on the surface in many places. 
 We came near losing a number of our 
 lady passengers today. They had ac- 
 companied Mr. Pullybank, who started 
 half an hour ip advance of us with his 
 tyams, about a mile, when thoy con- 
 cluded to stay and wait for Mr. 
 Sweasy 's wagons to come up. But he 
 liad taken a different road, having 
 heard that it was shorter and better. 
 The ladies were consequently left far 
 behind both, as we did not learn of 
 their absence until we overtook Mr. 
 Pullyblank at noon. One of our men 
 returned with horses and they came up 
 with us again at 2 o'clock. We en- 
 camped at a spring this evening on the 
 borders of a beautiful prairie. 
 Weather clear and oppressively warm 
 all dav. 
 
Thursday IGth- After passing' over a 
 prairie six miles wide this morning, 
 we reached the town of Plattsbur^, 
 where we laid in our supply of flour 
 for the Plains. The day was exceed- 
 ingly warm and we turned our cattle 
 out to prraze and rest on the bank of a 
 small brook, four miles from I'latts- 
 burifh. It was so late before we ij'ot 
 through cookinij our dinner, that we 
 encamped here for the niifhtwith l)ut 
 a meagre supply of wood and bad 
 water. 
 
 Friday ITth-Three miles on our way 
 this morning' one of our wagons broke 
 dDwn in fording a branch of the Platte 
 river and we stopped at a wagon mak- 
 er's shop, one mile from the place 
 where the accident occurred to have it 
 repaired. Our carpenters were engag- 
 ed all day in making a new wheel and 
 we remained here for the night. Our 
 young folks were again favored with 
 an empty log cabin, where they amused 
 themselves in dancing during the 
 evening. 
 
 Saturday ]8th-We crossed the Platte 
 river today at 1 o'clock, nine miles 
 from our encampment. It was a solid 
 rock bottou), the water only coming 
 up to the knees of our cattle. The 
 Platte is about one hundred yards 
 wide at this place. After travelling 7 
 miles further, mostly over rough 
 rocky bluEfs, with a stunted growth of 
 timber, we encamped two miles out in 
 a beautiful rolling prairie, four miles 
 from St. Josephs. 
 
 Sunday 19th- When the cattle were 
 collected this morning, it was discov- 
 ered that three of our best oxen were 
 missing. All hands immediately start- 
 
 ed in search of them, • but the entire 
 day was consumed before they were 
 found and we did not leave our en- 
 campment. 
 
 Monday 20th-Reached St. Joseph's 
 at 9 o'clock this morning, where we 
 were detained most of the day in pur- 
 chasing provisions. Mr. Bulton and 
 lady joined us here, having arrived 
 three weeks before us by water. Three 
 gentlemen likewise applied to us for a 
 pass ige to California and were accept- 
 ed. Their names were Moore, Wade, 
 and Fever. Crossed the Missouri at 
 
 4 p. m. in a steam ferry-boat and after 
 driving five miles through a heavy 
 growth of Cottonwood, during which 
 night overtook us, we encamped at the 
 foot of a high range of blufifs, on the 
 bank of a small creek. 
 
 Tuesday 21st- We had the misfortune 
 to lose 7 of our cows yesterday in 
 passing through St. Josephs, and five 
 or six of our party were detained all 
 night on the opposite side of the river 
 in search of them. After waiting very 
 impatiently at our encampment, all 
 day, they came up with us again at 
 
 5 o'clock p. ra They had succeeded 
 in tinding five and concluded to leave 
 the other two behind. 
 
 Wednesday 22nd-Another delay was 
 occisioned this morning by disf.over- 
 ing that 3 barrels of crackers had been 
 left in St Josephs at the store where 
 they were purchased. After some lit- 
 tle consultation it was decided that 
 M: . Sweasy and Lyon should return 
 with the two horses and pack them on 
 in sacks, and that the wagons should 
 start forward immediately. Half a 
 mile from our encampment we ascend- 
 
ed a high prairie bluflf, overlookingr an 
 immense extent of country, throug'h 
 which we could trace our road wind- 
 ing its course among the bluffs far as 
 the e.ye could reach. An Indian on a 
 fine black pony passed us here at full 
 speed, addressing us in his native 
 tongue, the purport of which we could 
 not of course understand. Crossed 
 Mosquito Creek, 13 miles at 2 o'clock 
 and encamped in a strip of woodland 
 Smiles further on. Mr. Sweasy and 
 Lyon did not overtake us till 
 dark. They were very much fatigued. 
 
 Thursday 23rd -We arrived at Icfdi- 
 ana Agency to-day at 11 o'clock. 
 Several white men were settled here 
 with excellent farms under a high state 
 of cultivation. The wheat, which was 
 about knee deep, was the finest look- 
 ing crop of the kind I have ever seen. 
 I noticed several squaws very neatly 
 dressed in the costume of the whites, 
 sitting at work in the houses, while 
 quite a number of Indian men, in 
 their native dresses, were busily en- 
 gaged in trading at a store. Here 
 commences the so-called great "Amer- 
 can Plains." The country which had 
 been very much broken during the last 
 day's travel, with limestone often ap- 
 pearing on the surface, gradually gave 
 place to smooth and gently undulating 
 hills. When we had left the Agency 
 two or three miles an old Indian met 
 us from a cross road and presented a 
 paper, written in good English, ask- 
 ing for a small sum of money as a 
 tribute for passing through their terri- 
 tory. He received a number of dira'es 
 from different members of the com- 
 pany and soon left us, apparently 
 very well satisfied. We encamped 
 without wood, except a little dry hazel 
 
 i and sumach, but had the benefit of a 
 i very fine spring of pure, cool water. 
 
 I Friday 24th-After a drive of 12 miles 
 j to-day, we turned our cattle out to 
 I wattr at a creek a quarter of a mile 
 I from the main road. Four miles furth- 
 I er on we arrived at Bear Creek, a dir- 
 I ty sluggish stream, winding through a 
 I strip of timber. Here we were met by 
 Mr. PuUyblank. He left us yesterday 
 in search of Mr. Dexter, who had 
 dropped us a note by a return emi- 
 grant, desiring to join our train when 
 we came up with him. He was nine 
 miles ahead of us and driving slow, to 
 give us an opportunity to overtake 
 hiiu. According to Mr PuUyblank's 
 directions we took in wood and water 
 here for the nighl, and after driving 
 three miles furtiier encamped. We 
 mei a number of emigrants returning 
 to-day, discouraged by sickness and 
 death in their ranks. Four persons 
 out of a company of six had died, and 
 the remaining two who were sick had 
 hired a couple of young men from an- 
 other train to drive them back to St. 
 Joseph. 
 
 Saturday 25th-Was a hard day's 
 drive, having travelled 25 miles in or- 
 der to overtake Mr Dexter's company. 
 We were ra'her rash in passing a wa- 
 tering place early in the evening and 
 came near suffering for our folly. We 
 met Mr. Corbin, however, a little after 
 sunset, who relieved us from our di- 
 lemma. He wa3 from Mr. Dexter's 
 company and was on the lookout for 
 
 us. They were encamped on Nemehaw 
 Creek, two miles distant, where they 
 had been waiting for us to come up. 
 We arrived at the place some time af- 
 ter dark, fatigued with our hard day's 
 
travel. 
 
 Sunday 26th-When we arrived at 
 our encampment last night it was two 
 dark to trace distinctly the surround- 
 ing landscape. The scene this morn- 
 ing' was beautiful almost beyond des- 
 cription. Our wagons were enclosed 
 on three sides by high prairie bluffs, 
 clothed in a rich carpet of deep grt-en, 
 while on the other side a clear stream 
 20 or 30 yards in width, went bounding 
 over limestone rocks till it was lost to 
 view, a hundred yards distant, among 
 a luxuriant growth of trees, just burst- 
 ing into full foliau-e. Standing on the 
 bank of the creek we could see a va- 
 riety of fish, some of them ten or 
 twelve pounds in weight sporting in 
 its water. At twelve o'clock to-day in 
 crossing a creek one of our wagon 
 wheels slipped its tire and we were de- 
 layed till 4 o'clock in repairing it. 
 Mr. Dexter's party drove on and en- 
 camped three or four miles ahead and 
 we did not overtake them till nearly 
 dark. 
 
 Monday 27th-We found but an in- 
 different supply of water to-day and 
 weather beiiig warm and sultry, we 
 traveled only about 16 miles when we 
 turned off the road to a strip of timber 
 a mile distant and encamped. As we 
 wei'e now in the neighborliood of the 
 Pawnees, it was deemed advisable to 
 see that our firearms were in order 
 and the greater part of the evening 
 was devoted to cleaning guns, mould- 
 ing balls, etc. 
 
 Tuesday 28th-Arrived at Big Blue 
 river at 10 o'clock a. m. This stream 
 favorable at all ordinary times, we 
 
 now found very much swollen. About 
 fifty wagons were already collected on 
 the bank and several companies were 
 occupied in crossing on rudely con- 
 structed rafts. We fouad the chance 
 of crossing here today hopeless, so 
 drove on to a point a mile above and 
 commenced constructing a cou|)le of 
 canoes, thinking them safer than by 
 th6 usual mode. There was a train of 
 five wagons at this crossing, who had 
 nearly completed a raft and proposed 
 to us to join them in ferrying on it, 
 which we agreed to do and abandoned 
 the building of but one canoe. A part 
 of our men finished the canoe during 
 the afternoon and the others assisted 
 in crossing the five wagons which were 
 safely landed on the opposite bank 
 d)iring the evening. We were encamp- 
 ed in the prairie, half a mile from the 
 river and did not commence crossing 
 our train lo-day. A number oi Liic 
 Pawnees visited the difierent encamp- 
 ments and appeared quite friendly. 
 One party came in bearing a white 
 flag. 
 
 Wednesday 29th-When we launched 
 our canoe this morning we found it 
 capable of carrying a thousand pounds 
 with perfect safety, although the 
 stream was very rapid and apparently 
 dangerous for so small a craft. We 
 commenced placing our provisions 
 and clothing in the canoe, while the 
 empty wagons were crossed on the 
 raft by means of ropes attached to 
 each end of it and to the bank. In 
 this manner several of our wagons 
 and their contents were safely deposit- 
 ed on the opposite shore. By some 
 mismanagement in placing a wagon on 
 the raft, we came very near losing it 
 altogether. In pushing off from shore 
 
 '3 
 
it rolled off back and the hind wbeels 
 were completely buried in the water. 
 It was rescued from this position how- 
 ever, by considerable labor, in which 
 several of our men were up to their 
 necks in water. Geo. Hamilton. Ira 
 Lyon and Wm. Pritchard, were the 
 principal sufferers by this unfortu- 
 nate accident. They had trusted their 
 boxes in this wagon and they were 
 completely immersed in the water. 
 Mine were also in the wagon but for- 
 tunately for me on top, and suffered 
 no injury whatever. Two pair of new 
 boots and a pair of shoes belonging to 
 me sank to thp bottom of the river, 
 but were grabbed up by Mr. Bolton. 
 All the wagons fourteen in number, 
 were finally crossed over and after 
 moving up the stream half a mile to 
 the prairie we encamped. 
 
 Thursday 30th-Made about 20 miles 
 today and encamped a mile from the 
 road. 
 
 Friday 31st-Stopped at a creek to- 
 day at noon to repair a wagon The 
 tire had to be taken off the wheels and 
 re-set, which occupied "about two 
 hours. We made about our usual 
 days drive and encamped at sunset. 
 A herd of buffalo, the first seen on our 
 route, was observed by a number of 
 our party, ascending a bluff in the dis- 
 tance. Several antelope were also 
 seen, but could not be approached 
 within gun shot. 
 
 Saturday June Ist-Several of our 
 party set out early this morning, on 
 horseback to huHt buffalo. They re- 
 turned at ten o'clock, entirely unsuc- 
 cesstul. We met a company of dra- 
 goons today on their march from Ft. 
 
 Kearney to Fort Leavenworth, having 
 a number of baggage wagons in 
 charge We encamped on the bank of 
 a creek this evening 2 miles from the 
 main road. 
 
 Sunday 2nd-Last night we had one 
 of the hardest rain storms I ever wit- 
 nessed. Our large tent was lifted 
 from the ground by the wind and 
 everything contained in it completely 
 drenched with water. In fact every- 
 thing we had was wet more or less; for 
 '' the rain came with such force as to 
 i beat through the wagon covers. The 
 ' storm lasted throughout the night. 
 The weather cleared up before sun-rise 
 ' and the air became cool and refresh- 
 ing. We were in sight of timber near- 
 ly all day yesterday, following the 
 course of the creek on which we en- 
 camped. We crossed it this morning, 
 after following it up the bank a mile. 
 At three o'clock p. m. we reached the 
 Republican Fork of Blue river and 
 after traveling along -its course for 
 four or five miles oncampcd. This 
 creek is fifteen or twenty yards wide 
 with timber growing along its banks 
 and at the time we reached it vtM-y 
 much swollen with recent rains. 
 
 Monday .3rd-Continued our journey 
 up the creek for 4 or 5 miles, when we 
 struck off into the plains again over a 
 high bluff, the creek here making a 
 sweeping bend entirely out of the 
 direct course. After traveling over a 
 country level as a floor for six miles 
 the road bore out towards the creek 
 again and finally descended to its 
 valley up which we travelled the re- 
 mainder of the day, with the timber 
 close on our left hand. Since we left 
 St. Josephs our guns have been al- 
 
 M 
 
most useless, for jjame of every des- 
 cription has been drivi-n entirely from 
 the road by llie immense emi^ittioQ 
 this season. Tliis part vi the country 
 has been represented as abounding in 
 a variety of jfame. A few antelope 
 and buffalo have been seen by some 
 of our party within the last few days, 
 bui for my part I have not seen either 
 yet. 
 
 Tuesday 4tii Rain set in at 10 o'- 
 clock last night and continueil at in- 
 tervals during the greater part of the 
 day. We continued our course along 
 tije Republican Forlt. At three o'- 
 clock we ascended the bluffs and 
 struck off into the plains after taking 
 a supply of wood and water for the 
 night at the creek. When we had 
 i-eached un elevation where we could 
 take a view of the surrounding coun- 
 try we counted over a hundred emi- 
 grant wagons in sight. 
 
 Wednesday Sih-The rain continued 
 with but little intermission till 12 
 o'clock to-day. The road was conse- 
 (^uently bad and our progress slow. 
 We encamped 7 or 8 miles from the 
 Fiatte with the bluffs in sight. We 
 procured mushrooms growing along 
 the road today, the largest I have ever 
 seen; some of them measuring 3 inches 
 in diameter and an inch and a half 
 thick. The largest were too old for 
 cooking but Mr. Beal soon gathered 
 a handkerchief full of smaller dimen- 
 sions and said to be e.iicelleiit. 
 
 Thursday Gth-Started early and 
 reached Ft. Kearney having traveled 
 something like 2") miles. Before 
 reaching the foot our course was a- 
 long the foot of the bluffs in the valley 
 
 I of the Platte for 8 or ten mile. Thia 
 part of the road is through low mar- 
 shy ground and at the time we passed 
 .(uile muddy with the recent rain, 
 rhe Fort stands about a mile from the 
 river and consists of three large frame 
 b.iildings, a number of out houses 
 i)iiilt of turf and used as stables, a 
 store, postottice and a powder maga- 
 zine. A number of tents were pitclied 
 in the vicinity for the accommodation 
 ot the soldiers. The mail leaves here 
 once in two weeks for the States. 
 
 Friday 7th-This morning one of our 
 wagons having been found unfit for 
 the trip was drove to the Fort and ex: 
 I'hanged for a stronger and heavier 
 one. The rest of the train proceeded 
 on the road and did not stop till din- 
 ner time. The new wagon came up at 
 2 o'clock. At 4 o'clock we stopped to 
 take in wood, which was procured by 
 wading the river to an island The 
 water was only knee deep but very . 
 rapid and muddy. Encamped a niile 
 from the river near the bluffs. 
 
 Saturday 8th-We met two wagons 
 this morning returing to the States (;n 
 account of sicknesc. We also met a 
 wagon containing a man who had been 
 accidently shot. His friends were le- 
 turning with him to the Fort to have 
 his wounds dressed. Another train of 
 lliree wagons also passed us on theii' 
 way back in the afternoon, having had 
 four deaths in the com piny. The pre- 
 vailing complaint is diarrhoea. Cross- 
 ed Plum creek at 5 o'clock and en- 
 camped a mile beyond on the Platte. 
 One of Mr. Wilsey's party killed an 
 antelope today which was divided a- 
 mong the company and cooked for 
 supper. We found it pi-etty much the 
 
 15 
 
same as the common doer. 
 
 Sunday 9th-The weather yesterday 
 was clear but very sultry. Last nij4lit 
 however, the wind shifted round to the 
 north and this morning we found o\ n ■ 
 coats quite comfortable to travel in. 
 We passed a number of emigrants re 
 turning on acnount of sic-kness and ^a^v 
 many new made graves at dift'eniit 
 points along the road. In one place 
 we counted three and at anotlier five. 
 The disease is said to be cholera. 
 
 Monday 10th Drove about 14 milts 
 today and passed 10 new graves: two 
 of thera ladies; one aged 57, tlie otlipi- 
 37. Weather clear, cool and pleasani 
 After tff.kig in wood and water at tKe 
 river in the evening we struck out a- 
 bout 2 miles to the bluffs and encamp- 
 ed at 5 o'clock. Soon after our caralle 
 was formed, I was entraged with Mr. 
 Mills in removing some wood from 
 one of tne wagons, when one of his pis- 
 tols was discharged by some misman- 
 agement; an accident which came neai' 
 being attended with very serious con- 
 sequences. Oil e.KUiiiinal.ion we found 
 that the ball had passed through one 
 corner of our powder-bo.x, con- 
 taining ten cannisters, or about 50 lli> 
 The muzzle of the pistol could noi 
 have been more than three or four 
 inches from the box. Had the ball 
 passed through one of cannisters at 
 so short a distance, there is no calcu- 
 lating the amount of damage thnt 
 might have been done. 
 
 Tuesday llih We still continued our 
 journey up the Platte, parsing during 
 the day 15 or i6 graves. I have; no- 
 ticed that the bluffs on the left have 
 gradually become higher and moie 
 
 rugged as we have proceeded on Our 
 journey, till finally at about 95 miles 
 from Fort Kearney, accordirkg to a 
 guidebook, they appear to have reach- 
 ed their highest point. Here we turned 
 off to the river, two miles distant on 
 our right and encamped. A nimil)er 
 of our party a-^cended tlie highest 
 pointofthe bluff and described the 
 view as very beautiful. 
 
 Wednesday 12-This morning soon 
 after striking the main road again, we 
 passed a party of horseman paying 
 the last funeral rites to one of their 
 departed friends. The sad ceremony 
 was soon over, and they galloped on 
 to overtake their train ahead of u<. 
 During the forenoon, a dead buffaU- 
 was discovered at the road side, killed 
 by a party of hunters in advance of 
 us, A large jjortion of flesh had been 
 cut off and the remainder was taken 
 by our own company. Passed 10 
 graves today. Full two-thirds of the 
 deaths that have occurred are Mis- 
 sourians. Why it is so, it is impossi- 
 ble to tell but such is the fact. A 
 quarrel occurred in camp this morn- 
 ing between Mr. Mills and Mr, 
 Sweasy. It originated in a foolish 
 dispute concerning the distance be- 
 tween our encampment and the Forks 
 of the Platte: each having gained in- 
 formation from different sources. The 
 quarrel on the whole had a very good 
 effest: for Mr. Sweasy has of late be- 
 come overbearing and insolent to the 
 company in general, and towards Mr. 
 Mills in particular, and the small 
 share of sympathy he gained from 
 this little outbreak, served in a mea- 
 sure, to show him his true position 
 with regard to the company. His 
 manner throughout the day underwent 
 
 i6 
 
a complete change; seldom giving an | 
 order but leaving it to the discretion | 
 of the company. We arrived at the j 
 lower crossing', a few miles above the I 
 fork, at 5 o'clock this evening, but j 
 finding the ford too deep we encamped 
 a few miles above, having concluded , 
 to cross at the upper ford 45 miles j 
 further on the South Fork. 
 
 Thursday ISth-This morning we 
 found the clouds threatening rain. It 
 did not come on however, til we had 
 proceeded a mile on our way and was 
 only a slight shower, which soon 
 I'leared up and gave place to bright 
 sunshine For the last day or two we 
 have had to resort entirely tobufl'aloe 
 chips for fuel. It burns very freely 
 when dry and answers very well for 
 all common purposes of cooking. A 
 number of wolves were killed by the 
 emigrants today. One passed me with- 
 in sixty yards with a horseman in full 
 chase. It was killed by Mr. Dexter, 
 with a revolver. The graves of 14 
 persons were passed today, all of 
 whom died of the prevailing complaint 
 cholera. We encamped on the bank of 
 the river. After supper Mr. Hamilton 
 favored us with some music on his 'vi- 
 olin and the young folks danced cotil- 
 lions in the caralle till a late hour. 
 
 Friday 14th- We had a heavy shower 
 of rain, attended with thunder and 
 lightning last night There seems to 
 be no power of abatement in the num- 
 ber of deaths among the emigrants. 
 We passed the usual number of graves 
 today, as well as several trains en- 
 camped on account of sickness. Met 
 two mule teams carrying the mail from 
 Salt Lake to the States. Encamped 
 
 5 miles from the ford. 
 
 Saturday ir)th-In conseq uence of a 
 rise in the river and a scarcity of 
 grass near the ford, it was deemed ad- 
 visable to send a man ahead to ex- 
 amine the crossing previous to start- 
 ing thi*; morning. Mr. Sweasy took 
 this task upon himself. He returned 
 within the course of two hours and 
 having reported the ford impassible, 
 it was agreed to remain here today 
 and look for another crossing. A 
 place was discovered three miles be- 
 low, where by raising our wagon beds 
 a foot on the bolsters we would be 
 enabled to cross. The wagons were 
 consequently adjusted for the trip dur- 
 ing the afternoon and everything put 
 in readiness for an early start in the 
 morning. Twelve or fourteen wagons 
 passed us returning to the states. 
 Two were from Salt Lake on their way 
 from California. The proprietor of 
 the California wagons had met his 
 brother-in-law, a few miles above and 
 persuaded his whole train, some eight 
 or ten wagons in number to return. 
 
 Sunday 16th-After retracing our 
 steps three miles down the river at an 
 early hour we commenced crossing. 
 The river is over a mile wide at this 
 point with a current outrunning the 
 Missouri or the Mississippi and in its 
 nurse over an uneven bottom, boiling 
 and eddying until it is completely mix- 
 ed with sand thus raised by the motion 
 of the water. Into this flood, fearful 
 and dangerous to look at, our wagons 
 commenced plunging one after another 
 the first dive completely immersing 
 the axletrees and nearly sweeping the 
 
 17 
 
drivers off their feet. They all passed 
 safely over in the course of two hours 
 but not without many apprehensions 
 that they would be overturned by the 
 immense welgrht of the current pressing 
 on them at times when the wheels sunk 
 into the inequalities of the bottom. 
 On reaching the opposite shore, the 
 drivers found the legs of their panta- 
 loons literally cut to pieces by the 
 sand and force of the water. Encamp- 
 ed three miles above our starting 
 place. There is but very little variety 
 in the scenery along the Platte. The 
 valley is probably six miles wide on 
 an average, bounded by high bluffs 
 with but a scant covering of grass in 
 many places, while at others they are 
 entirely destitute of vegetation. The 
 river itself is so cut up with islands 
 that it is difficult to judge the distance 
 across. Where a clear view could be 
 had, it appeared to be over a mile 
 wide. Although it was said to be at 
 high water when we passed, yet it was 
 seldom deep enough to swim a horse. 
 The road runs nearly in a straight 
 line, approaching alternately the 
 bluffs and river and thus cutting off 
 their windings. There is no timber on 
 the main land, except at two or three 
 points and our fuel was procured by 
 wading to tJiO island. In ascendinc 
 the Platte to the forks, the bluffs erad- 
 ually approach nearer the river and 
 become higher and more rugged in 
 their character. There is a ford five 
 miles up the South fork 
 
 and another 45 miles further on. We 
 kept on the south side to the latter. 
 The bluffs again recede from the river 
 to an average distance of two miles 
 after passing tbe lower ford and there 
 is no preceptable difference, either in 
 the character or size, between the 
 
 south branch and the main river. 
 Grass is abundant and afforded fine 
 grazing for our cattle. Water is gener- 
 ally procured by digging two or three 
 feet, but it is often found to be un 
 pleasant in flavor and is no doubt the 
 main cause of sickness among the emi- 
 grants. The river water is probably 
 the best for general use. The whole 
 valley is cut up with buffaloe trails 
 leading from the bluffs to the river 
 and their bones may be seen scattered 
 in every direction. These animals, 
 however, have almost entirely disap- 
 peared from the road in consequence 
 of the immense emigration within the 
 last two years. 
 
 Monday 17th-Our course today was 
 nearly due north through the bluffs for 
 7 or 8 miles when we intersected the 
 road from the upper ford. We reach- 
 ed the bluffs leading to Ash Hollow at 
 .3 p. m. and after winding our way a- 
 long a ridge with high limestone cliffs 
 on either hand for two or three miles, 
 we descended by a precipitous road 
 for two hundred feet, into the Hollow. 
 This place takes its name from the 
 timber which it produces. Having se- 
 cured an excellent supply of fire-wood 
 here for the night, we drove a mile 
 and encamped on the north fork of 
 the Platte, after traveling in all 23 
 miles. 
 
 Tuesday 18th-A cold north wind had 
 set in during last night and as we pro- 
 ceeded on our journey up the river, 
 we had to resort to our winter clothing 
 again to keep warm. The grass hav- 
 ing been fmind short at our stopping 
 place last night, we halted at 9 o'clock 
 to graze our cattle near an encamp- 
 
luent of Sioux Indians. A number of 
 our party paid them a visit, but tiiey 
 did not seem desirous to hold commun- 
 ication with white folks and retired to 
 their lodges. A few, however, stood 
 their ground and seemed to hold the 
 prying curiosity of their white vis- 
 itors in utter contempt. They were 
 about 20 in number, accompanied by 
 2 white men, who answered many ques- 
 tions respecting the tribe, etc. Dur- 
 ing the afternoon we came to an In- 
 dian tomb on the road side. li con- 
 sisted of four or five poles, about 15 
 feet in length, stood up on end in a 
 conical form, with ends secured at top 
 by a leather thong; while mid-way a 
 rude shelf was constructed of sticks 
 and raw-hide, on which the body was 
 placed, wrapped in a buffalo robe, 
 painted with Indian devices. A rough 
 board was suspended at the side, stat- 
 ing in English that the deceased had 
 liver complaint and requesting that 
 the body should not be disturbed. 
 This afternoon was warm and sultry 
 and altogether it has been one of the 
 hardest and most disagreeable day's 
 travel we have had. This part of the 
 road runs along the fool of the bluffs, 
 with the river close on the right hand 
 and is intersected by deep chasms cut 
 into by the rain washing down from 
 the bluffs. The dust was intolerable 
 and our teams were enveloped in a 
 complete cloud of it nearly all day. 
 A dark cloud appeared in the north- 
 west, soon after we had encamped and 
 we had barely got rid of our supper 
 things when a storm, such as is only 
 known on the plains, burst upon us 
 with all its fury. Past experience had 
 learned us to secure our tents well to 
 the ground; and this time only one out 
 of six blew over. 
 
 Wednesday 19th-The face of the 
 country today is pretty much the same 
 as that of yesterday; except that the 
 valley is oftener wider and the graz- 
 ing consequently better. There ap- 
 pears to be but little abatement in 
 sickness. There was a considerable 
 decrease in the number of graves on 
 the first day's travel from Ash Hollow, 
 but today we have passed nineteen 
 A difficulty arose among our leaders 
 which came near dividing the train. 
 Mr Dexter, in consideration of his ex- 
 perience on the road, had been unani- 
 mously chosen to select encampments 
 and stopping places. He was about a 
 mile in advance with his wagons, at 
 11 o'clock when the rest of the party 
 thinking they had drove far enough, 
 halted to dinner. This gave offense 
 to Mr. Dexter and he ordered a di- 
 vision of the herd of cattle, with the 
 intention of traveling by himself. The 
 difficulty was amicably arranged in the 
 evening. 
 
 Thursday 20th- At three o'clock to- 
 day we arrived at a creek opposite 
 Solitary Tower. Messrs. Beal and 
 Bolton visited it and as their des- 
 cription corresponds with that of Mr. 
 Palmer, I give the following extract: 
 "This singular natural object is a 
 stupendous pile of sand and clay, so 
 cemented as to resemble stone, but 
 which crumbles away at the slightest 
 touch. I conceive it is about 7 miles 
 distant from the moiath of the creek; 
 though it appears to be not more than 
 three. The height of this tower is 
 somewhere between six hundred and 
 eight hundred feet from the level of 
 the river. Viewed from the road, the 
 beholder might easily imagine he was 
 
 19 
 
gazing upon some ancient structure of 
 the old world A nearer approach 
 dispels tbe illusion and it looks as it 
 is, roug'h and unseemly. It can be as- 
 cended, at its north side, by clamber- 
 in^up the rock; holes having been cut 
 in its face for that purpose. The 
 second or main bench can be ascended 
 with greater ease at an opening on the 
 south side, where the water has wash- 
 ed out a crevice large enough to admit 
 the body; so that by pushing against 
 the sides of the crevice one can force 
 himself upward fifteen or twenty feet, 
 which places the adventurer on the 
 slope of the second bench. Passing 
 around the eastern point of the tower, 
 the ascent may be continued up the 
 north face. A stream of water runs 
 along the north-eastern side, some 
 twenty rods distant from the tower; 
 and deep ravines are cut out by the 
 washing of the water from the tower to 
 the creek. Nearby stands another j 
 pile of materials, similar to that com- 1 
 posing the tower, but neither so large i 
 nor so high. The bluffs in the vicini- j 
 ty appear to be of the same material. ! 
 Between this tower and the river ! 
 stretches out a rolling plain." We en- 
 camped a little beyond Solitary Tower 
 and in full view of Chimney Rock. 
 
 Friday 21st-At twelve cf clock today 
 we halted opposite Chimney Rock. 
 "This," says Mr. Palmer, "is a sharp 
 pointed rock of much the same materi- 
 al as the Solitary Tow«r, sfjandingati 
 the base of the blulT, and four or five 
 from the road. It is visible at a dis- 
 ance of 30 miles and has the unpoeti- 
 cal appearance of a haystack with a 
 pole running far above its top." 
 This, as Solitary Tower is inscribeil 
 with hundreds of names. We en- 
 
 camped about ten miles from Chimney 
 Rock, but still in sight of it. 
 
 June, Saturday 22nd-Today at 9 
 o'clock a. m. we arrived at Scott's 
 Bluffs. The road leaves the river at 
 this point by a circuitous route for 30 
 miles. We met an Indian trader ^^^e 
 with a two horse wagon, who pointed 
 out to us an excellent spring, seven or 
 eight miles ahead. He also stated 
 that there was a regularly established 
 trading post three miles to our left, 
 where we could see a herd of cattle 
 grazing. Having reached the spring 
 in the afternooH, we found here an en- 
 campment of near a hundred Sioux 
 Indians. The village contained 13 
 lodges and a row of rudely construct- 
 ed huts. Removed from these, per- 
 haps three hundred yards, were two 
 Frenchmen with their Indian wife and 
 children. They were having a dog 
 feast Near their camp fire was the 
 head of a large mastiff; a bleeding 
 evidence of the fact. We procured a 
 good supply of wood and clear and 
 cool water here and encamped three 
 miles further in the bluffs. 
 
 Sunday 23rd-We descended from 
 the bluffs to the valley of the Platte 
 again at 9 o'clock this morning. 
 Crossed Horse Creek near its junction 
 with the river at 10 o'clock and en- 
 camped ten miles above. 
 
 Monday 24th-After a drive of 18 
 miles today, we encamped early in the 
 evening within 5 miles of Fort Lar- 
 amie. Mr. Bolton had walked on in 
 advance of the wagons in the after- 
 noon and was not aware for some time 
 that we had stopped. He had to re- 
 trace his steps for a considerable dis- 
 
 20 
 
tance and it was with some difficulty 
 that he found us late in the eveninjf, 
 we having- turned off the road. It 
 rained durinjf the nijfht. 
 
 Tuesday 25th-Five miles travel this 
 morning over the spurs of the bluffs, 
 brought us to Laramie river, a branch 
 of the Platte, within a mile of the 
 Fort, A number of teams were al- 
 ready crossing. The water was very 
 rapid and we observed that th'3 wag- 
 ons sunk midway up the beds. After 
 raising all are damageable goods to i 
 the tops of the beds, our train all 
 passed safely over in the course of ' 
 two hours. A small boat made of a 
 wagon bed was plying backward and 
 forward just above the ford by a rope 
 stretched across the stream and a 
 number of us took advantage of this 
 accommodation to have our chests 
 carried over. Four of us paid a dol- 
 lar and a half for one trip, my pas- 
 sage included The stream is nbout 
 40 yards wide. We stopped at the 
 Fort two hours to write and mail let- 
 ters, make a few purchases, etc. and 
 after a drive of a mile over the spurs 
 of the bluffs we again reached the 
 Platte. We encamped four miles up 
 the river, near a grove of dead ash 
 timber, where we procured a supply of 
 most excellent fuel. The grove stands 
 in a marsh and has no doubt been 
 destroyed by fire takiag hold of the 
 rank undergrowth of shrubs and 
 ifrass during some uncommonly dry 
 season 
 
 Wednesday 26th-Mr. Bolton and 
 Mr. Axton stopped back at the fort 
 yesterday to have their wagons re- 
 paired. As they did not reach here 
 this morning at the usual time of start- 
 
 ing, it was agreed to remain here dur- 
 ingthe day. We accordingly took ad- 
 vantage of the delay to bake a stock of 
 bread, air our provisions, clothing, 
 etc. Our two wagons came up with us 
 again at 2 p m. A train of forty 
 wagons, Thompson's, stopped about a 
 mile above us, late in the evening. 
 They drove upwards of 200 head of 
 loose cattle. Their herd of cattle in 
 all numbered over 500. Tt rained very 
 hard during the night and as usual 
 the wind came with such force as to 
 nearly blow our wagons over. 
 
 Thursday 27tli-Ten miles travel this 
 luorning over a rough road, winding 
 among high cedar blutfs, brought us 
 lo the Warm Spring. This spring 
 bursts out at the foot of a bluff, into 
 a dry sandy gulley, a quarter of a 
 mile lo the right of the road, afford- 
 ing an abundant supply of water for 
 stock, but it is too warm to be i»ala- 
 table. We encamped on Bitter ( ot- 
 t'DWood creek, having traveled 18 
 miles. 
 
 Friday 28th"C)ur route yesterday af- 
 ter leaving the Warm Spring, was 
 through the Black Hills. This morn- 
 ing we ascended Bitter Cottonwood 
 Creek for four or live miles, crossing 
 it many times. The creek I presume 
 takes its name from the peculiar 
 species of tree growing upon its banks. 
 It resembles in all respects the com- 
 mon Cottonwood of the Western states, 
 except in its leaf. The leaf is long 
 and pointed and not unlike the white 
 ash, but smaller. Fourteen miles 
 brought us to Horse Shoe creek, 
 where we filled our casks with clear, 
 cool water and encamped a mile be- 
 yond. 
 
Saturday 29th--After ascending a 
 bluff 200 feet high by a very crooked, 
 rough and steep road, we found the 
 traveling very good for 2 or 3 miles; 
 but during the rest of the day it was 
 by far the worst we have had on the 
 route. Ascending and descending im- 
 mense hills, obstructed by cobble- 
 stones, to such an extent as to endang- 
 er our wagons at almost every hun- 
 dred yards. A drive of twelve miles 
 brought us to LeBonte or Big Timber 
 creek, where we had contemplated 
 stopping for the night. Having found 
 the grass short and parched up, we 
 endeavored to reach a small creek, 
 five miles further on. Here too we 
 were disappointed and again kept on 
 in hopes of reaching another creek, 
 three miles distant. The drive was 
 too much for our cattle. Several of 
 them fell down with fatigue and had 
 to be unyoked. By delay in turning 
 the broken^ down cattle out of the 
 teams, our wagons ^ot separated. A 
 part went on to the creek: but live, 
 among which was the one I occupied, 
 were compelled to stop. We were 
 without water and there was none to be 
 procured except by retracing our steps 
 a mile and a half to the creek. I ex- 
 plored the country in the vicinity of 
 our encampment in search of wiiUr. 
 It was in vain, iiowever, and I relurn- 
 ed to camp, determined to make the 
 best of our dry fare, and retire to rest. 
 I found my companions in better 
 spirits tlian I anticipated. Mr. Wil 
 sey had laid in a scant supply of wa- 
 ter and furnish.'d the party with sutti- 
 cient for tea. A bright tire was blaz- 
 ing up when I returnee! and supper 
 nearly ready. During the evening it 
 was agreed that one of our party 
 should return to the creek on horse- 
 
 back in the morning and procure u 
 supply of water in our India rubber 
 sacks. After crossing Big Timber 
 creek, the scenery for four or five 
 miles is of the most singular character. 
 Our road here was through a narrow 
 valley, shut in by immense bluffs on 
 either hand. Those on our left cover- 
 ed with pine and cedar with a .scant 
 growth of herbage, while tliose on our 
 right were composed of a deep red 
 sandstone, with scarcely a spear of 
 grass appearing. The whole valley 
 was of a deep red color, producing 
 nothing but wild sage and had lliea))- 
 pearance of an immense brick-yard. 
 
 Sunday .Wth-We rejoined our 
 
 friends ttiis morning at 9 o'clock after 
 
 traveling four miles. Their fare had 
 
 been no better than our own. They 
 
 were encamped a mile from a spring- 
 
 : and the grazing short and dry. .\ 
 
 quarrel had occurred between. Mr. 
 
 I Spencer and the ladies. They hart 
 
 ! from some cause neglected to make 
 
 ! coffee for breakfast and hence the ditTi- 
 
 ; culty. Miss Combe, whose services 
 
 [ have been invaluable on the journey. 
 
 I had remained with our party. Thf 
 
 I road today has been very good. W( 
 
 ' traveled only ten miles, however, ani 
 
 ' encamped on LePrele river; a clear 
 
 stream, 30 feet wide and of an aver?.j.'e 
 
 I depth of two feeN A cold wind was 
 
 i blowing all day with such force at 
 
 I times as to nearly lift us off our feet. 
 
 I Monday July Ist-At supper yester- 
 ' day evening we found that Mr Beal 
 ; was absent and an inquiry discovered 
 that he had not been seen in camp. 
 He had been seen to start on ahead of 
 the train at the last watering place: 
 but further than that, we could not 
 
 n 
 
 22 
 
learn what had become of him. Two 
 miles on our journey this morning-, we 
 heard that he had stopped all night 
 with another train, within a mile of us 
 and had started on ajrain this morn- 
 ing. Mr. Otzman and myself had a 
 regular quarrel with Mr. Sweasy on 
 the road, which arose from our having 
 purchased some sugar and hard bread 
 which he refused to take into the wag- 
 on, under the frivolous pretense of too 
 much weight. We encamped at 1 o'- 
 clock on LeFourche Boise Creek and 
 after dinner Mr. Otzman and Mills 
 went in search of Mr. Beal. A num- 
 ber of companies clubbed together this 
 afternoon and had a shooting match 
 for a beef. Our company won three 
 quarters. 
 
 Tuesday 2nd-After a drive of four 
 miles today over a tolerable good 
 road, we again struck the Platte. Two 
 miles further on we left the main road 
 to find an encampment on Deer Creek. 
 Having stopped to dinner, we learned 
 from one of our hunters that Messrs. ' 
 Fotzman, Mills and Beal were at [the 
 regular crossing, waiting for us to 
 come up. A person was dispatched 
 to direct them to our encampment. 
 They came up with us in the evening. 
 Heretofore our arrangments have 
 been very unsatisfactory with regard 
 to the duties of the members of the 
 company. After supper a meeting was 
 called and this matter satisfactorily 
 adjusted by assigning to each person 
 a certain share of the work, 
 
 Wednesday 3rd-Considerable delay 
 was occasioned this morning in conse- 
 quence of some of our cattle having 
 strayed. While we were thus detained 
 
 the cry was raised that a bufifalo was 
 coming down a blufif near a quarter of 
 a mile ofi'. Several of us started in 
 pursuit. Two horseman from another 
 train also gave it chase and after pur- 
 suing it near two miles to the base of 
 the mountains, succeeded in killing it. 
 It was a large bull and had received 
 four shots before it fell. Mr. Jackson 
 was in at the death and received a 
 share of the meat. Grass is very 
 scarce and dry in this region. We 
 traveled only nine miles today and 
 encamped three miles from the road on 
 Crooked Muddy creek, where the feed 
 was tolerable good. 
 
 Thursday 4th- Word was given out 
 last night to start early in order to 
 reach a clear creek ten miles ahead, 
 where it was intended to celebrate the 
 anniversary of American Indepen- 
 dence. We reached the creek at 12 
 o'clock, but owing to a scarcity of 
 grass were compelled to move four 
 miles up the creek. When we had ac- 
 complished this distance, over a rough 
 road, it was too late to make prepara- 
 tions for our frolic and it was conse- 
 quently postponed till to-morrow. 
 
 Friday 5th-Our wagons had to un- 
 dergo some repairs here and it was 
 agreed that while a part of the com. 
 pany were engaged in the work the 
 rest should proceed to the mountains, 
 three miles distant on a hunting ex- 
 cursion. I was among the hunters. 
 We found the mountain covered with 
 a dense growth of pine, cedar and fur 
 trees. The ascent was tedious and in 
 many places difficult The pine leaves 
 afforded a slippery insecure foothold 
 and we were often compelled to take 
 
 23 
 
off our boots. After pulling our- 
 selves up by bushes, clambering a- 
 mong rocks, which would often give 
 way under our feet and go rolling 
 with a crash many hundred feet below 
 us, we at length reached the summit at 
 11 o'clock, having been five hours 
 from camp. Here we found a level 
 plain of perhaps a hundred acres in 
 extent, enclosed on three sides by an 
 abrupt barrier of rocks, 20 or 30 feet 
 in height. The plain was covered 
 with luxuriant grass, strawberries, 
 just in bloom, pine, cedar and fur 
 trees scattered at intervals over the 
 whole space and everything wore the 
 appearance of spring. Snow and ice 
 were found in situations protected 
 from the rays of the sun. A number 
 of mountain sheep were seen on the 
 cliffs above and below, but none in 
 gun-shot. After a fruitless search for 
 game and after taking a view of the 
 surrounding county, we descended by i 
 an easier route and reached our camp 
 in two hours. Here we found every- 
 thing had been prepared by the ladies 
 for our 4th of July dinner. A fat 
 calf had been killed by Mr. Pullyblank 
 the night before. At three o'clock we 
 partook of a dinner seldom excelled 
 in the States on such an occasion. • 
 
 Saturday 6th-Early this morning 
 we struck through the bluffs for the 
 Platte with the intention of crossing at 
 12 o'clock but found the river too 
 deep to ford. There is a regular ferry 
 established two miles above this 
 point, but the price of ferriage (5 dol- 
 lars a wagon) was a consideration 
 with our leaders; and much against 
 the will of the company, they preferr- 
 ed buying a couple of old wagons beds 
 already in use by another train and 
 
 crossing in this manner, by taking our 
 wagons in pieces. After much labor, 
 we landed ten safely on the opposite 
 shore during the afternoon. 
 
 Sunday July 7th-In crossing one of 
 our spring wagons, an accident occur- 
 red, which came near resulting in seri- 
 ous consequences. Owing to its pecu- 
 liar construction, we had to leave the 
 springs and axle-trees attached to the 
 body, making it so heavy as to over- 
 load the boat. When about half way 
 across the water rolled over the bow 
 to such a degree as to sink it and it 
 was carried down the stream near two 
 miles. Three men were managing the 
 boat. Mr. O'Neal and Mr. Faulkner 
 held fast to the rope attached to the 
 banks and reached shore; while Mr, 
 Sweasy was carried down with the 
 boat. Fortunately our other boat had 
 just discharged its load and immedi- 
 ately went to the relief of Mr Sweasy 
 and succeeded in bringing him safely 
 ashore. After towing the boats up a- 
 gain, our ferrying was completed at II 
 o'clock without any more accidents. 
 
 Monday 8th-The cattle had been 
 placed on an island, a mile above our 
 encampment on the first day of our ar- 
 rival iiere. This afternoon it was dis- 
 covered that 22 were missing, After a 
 long and tiresome search by the whole 
 party, eleven were brought in near 
 sun-set by Mr. Combe. They were 
 found in the neighborhood of our last 
 encampment. Mr. Williams returned 
 with another after dark, having heard 
 of the others from an emigant on a 
 similar errand. It was too late how- 
 ever to go in search of them. 
 
 Tuesday 9th-Early this morning a 
 
 24 
 
part of the company started out to 
 look for the cattle and returned with 
 them at noon. A most distressing 
 casualty occurred this afternoon 
 which has thrown a gloom over our 
 whole company. In brinering our cat- 
 tle off the island, Wm. Faulkner was 
 thrown from his horse and drowned. 
 Owing to the rapidity of the current, 
 our efforts to save him were unavail- 
 ing. An unsuccessful search was made 
 for his body; and we left the scene of 
 this melancholy accident at 4 o'clock 
 p. m.and encamped on the river three 
 miles above. 
 
 Wednesday lOth-Another unsuccess- 
 ful search was made this morning for 
 the body of Wrn. Faulkner. The road 
 leaves the Platte altogether at this 
 point and passes over the Red Buttes. 
 This part of the country is rough, bar- 
 ren and sterile; producing nothing but 
 wild sage. After traveling ten miles, 
 we encamped in a valley with a small 
 brook running through it. buit the 
 water was not very good. By driving 
 the ca'tle a mile from our en- 
 campment we found the grazing very 
 good. 
 
 Thursday llth-Atthe crossing of the 
 Platte, I was seized with the prevail- 
 ing sickness and today, as well as a 
 part of yesterday, I have been nnable 
 to walk. The country is still broken, 
 barren and sandy; scarcely producing 
 even wild sage. In traveling a dis- 
 tance of ten miles, we counted 32 dead 
 oxen on the road side; supposed to 
 have been poisoned by drinking at an 
 alkali pond which we passed yester- 
 day. 
 
 Friday 12th-After ten miles travel 
 
 this day over a heavy, sandy and bar- 
 ren road, we reached Sweet Water 
 river, where we took dinner. Here we 
 found the grass very short and as our 
 cattle were nearly exhausted by hard 
 work and scant feed, we drove off the 
 road five miles to the right, where we 
 found excellent grass and a good 
 spring. 
 
 Saturday 1.3th-A number of our wag- 
 on tires having beoome loose, it was 
 agreed to remain here today and re- 
 pair them. While a part of the com- 
 pany were engaged in repairing the 
 wagons, others were out in pursuit of 
 game. Although quite weak from my 
 sickness, I was among the latter. I 
 did not go far, however, and returned 
 in two hours with a couple of moun- 
 tain grouse and a large hare. Others 
 came in during the day with a variety 
 of small game, sufficient to supply the 
 company with one good meal. I did 
 not mention yesterday that two of our 
 oxen were left six miles back unable 
 to travel. Mr. Sweasy and sob re- 
 turned for them early this morning. 
 One of them was dead; the other could 
 not be found. 
 
 Sunday 14th-A man galloped into 
 our encampment while we were pre 
 paring for a start, requesting a 
 charge of powder to shoot a rabbit. 
 He was under a great state of excite- 
 ment and we refused it. We soon 
 learned that he had shot a person in a 
 quarrel, wounding him slightly in the 
 hip at another encampment, two or 
 three hundred yards distant. Five 
 miles due south of this we struck the 
 main road again at Independence on 
 the Sweet Water. This is a solid mass 
 of gray granite, 70 or 80 feet high, a 
 
 25 
 
quarter of a mile in length and may 
 be ascended at the north-west point. 
 Thousands of names are inscribed 
 on the south side; some in 
 different colored paints and others 
 carved in the rock. A party of us 
 had preceded the wagons half an hour 
 to view the natural curiosity. We 
 amused ourselves in clambering to 
 the top of it and in reading the in- 
 scriptions till the wagons came up. 
 Five miles beyond this we arrived at 
 Devil's Gate, where the Sweet Water 
 bursts through a spur of the mountain; 
 the rocks rising on each side to the 
 height of four or five hundred feet. 
 The road runs through another gap, 
 a considerable distance to the south. 
 We encamped on the river; having 
 traveled 12 or 13 miles. 
 
 Monday 15th-Ten horses were miss- 
 ing this morning. Eight belonging to 
 Mr. Dexter and two lo Mr. Sweasy. 
 The men were sent out in all directions 
 to hunt them. They were brought in 
 at 9 o'clock, having wandered to the 
 mountains, five miles distant. Not- 
 withstanding our late start we drove 
 thirteen miles over a heavy, sandy 
 road and encamped on the river near 
 the Rattlesnake Mountains, aloHg 
 which we have been traveling for the 
 last two days. These mountains are 
 composed of a species of granite, al- 
 most entirely destitute of vegetation. 
 
 Tu( Sclav July Kith- As we ascended 
 an elevation in the road, a quarter of 
 a mile from our last night's encamp- 
 ment, we caught the first view of the 
 snow-capped Wind liiver Mountains, 
 far in the distance We encamped on 
 the river again at 12 o'clock still near 
 the Rattlesnake Mountains; having 
 
 traveled 13 miles. For the last five 
 days grass has been very scarce. A- 
 bandoned wagons, dead horses, cattle 
 and mules, have marked the track 
 over which we pursued our wearisome 
 journey and the prospect has been 
 gloomy enough. Todav, however, 
 we have had less of heavy sandy 
 roads and have been fortunate enough 
 to procure good grazing for our cat- 
 tle. Since we arrived on the Sweet 
 Water the nights have been cool, with 
 slight frosts. A clearmoonlight night 
 followed a warm and sulty day and as 
 we clustered around our camp-fires, 
 the fatigues, hardships and perplexi- 
 ties of the journey were in a measure 
 forgotten in recounting the dangers 
 and difficulties of the past and build- 
 ing up bright hope* of happy days 
 yet to come. 
 
 Wednesday 17th-Directly after leav- 
 ing our encampment we followed the 
 course of the river through a canon 
 in the mountain; crossing it three 
 times within a mile This is called 
 the Narrows. The distance through 
 is probably a mile, Granite cliffs 
 rise on each side in many places sev- 
 eral hundred feet high with an occa- 
 sional cedar growing from the crevices 
 while the pass is often so contracted 
 a.<« to leave barely sufficient room for 
 a wagon, between the base of the rocks 
 and the river. There is some timber 
 in the valley with an undergrowth of 
 wild currant and gooseberry bushes. 
 Here also may be seen hundreds of 
 names inscribed on the rocks of those 
 who have gone before us. Seven or 
 eight miles from this, the road again 
 crosses and leaves the river for 16 
 miles. We drove the whole distance 
 thi'ough (27i miles) in order to procure 
 
 26 
 
^rass and water and did not encamp 
 till 10 o'clock at night. 
 
 Thursday 18th-Our cattle being 
 greatly fatigued with yesterday's long 
 drive, we only made 7 miles today. 
 After fording the river near our en- 
 campment, we passed over a range of 
 liigh, barren blufifs, struck the river 
 again and following its course for a 
 mile, encamped Wild sage is our 
 only fuel. This is emphatically a wild 
 sage country; producing liUle else. 
 The whole atmosphere is scented with 
 it; some of it growing to an enormous 
 size. At one place we found stalks 5 
 or G fei't high and six inches in diame- 
 ter. Several trains were encamped 
 here .md in the evening a number of 
 our neighbors came to chat with us 
 and listen to our music. 
 
 Friday 19th-Two miles up Sweet 
 Water, brought us to a bluff up which 
 we traveled for three miles over the 
 roughest road we have had on the 
 route. At times we had to pass over 
 solid limestone for a considerable dis- 
 tance; endangering our wagons at al- 
 most every stop by jumping from the 
 ledges. Two miles from the summit 
 we stopped at cool spring to dinner. 
 From the spring we traveled about ten 
 miles over a very good road, but 
 crooked and rolling and encamped on 
 a branch of the Sweet Water. We 
 found the grass short and had to 
 drive the cattle two miles to better 
 feed. A guard of four men was sent 
 out to watch them during the night; 
 among whom I was placed on the last 
 watch. A tent and blankets were car- 
 ried to the spot, but the evening was 
 clear and pleasant and we used the 
 tent for a bed and slept in the open 
 
 air. Wolves were howling around us 
 all niglit and we were considerably 
 anno yed by musquitoes, 
 
 Saturday 20th-We encamped on 
 Sweet Water again today, after trav- 
 eling seven or eight miles. 
 
 Sunday 2l9t-A difference of opinion 
 with regard to this day's travel, a- 
 rose this morning, which led to a di- 
 vision of the company. There being 
 but little or no grass for twenty-eight 
 miles to come, Messrs. Dexter, Wilsey 
 and Pullyblank, were for starting at 
 3 o'clock p. m. and traveling all night; 
 while Mr. Sweasy preferred making 
 it in two days. They could not agree 
 I and separated as above stated. Two 
 I miles up Sweet Water and we crossed 
 I it bidding farewell to the last stream 
 I flowing homeward. Seven miles from 
 this we passed the Twin Mounds and 
 took dinner a quarter of a mile be- 
 yond. Just as we were starting from 
 this place, we were shocked to hear of 
 the sudden death of Mrs. Bolton. 
 She had been complaining for a day 
 or two, but nothing serious was ap- 
 prehen^led till eleven o'clock today 
 when a physician was consulted, a 
 few minutes previous to starting. She 
 requested us to travel on, but her life 
 terminated as soon as the wagons 
 commenced moving. Her disease was 
 said to be con.:estioD of the lungs. 
 She was carried on to Pacific Springs 
 where it was contemplated the funeral 
 should take place 
 
 Monday 22nd- The sad funeral cere- 
 monies of Mrs. Bolton being over, the 
 wagons commenced moving at 9 o'- 
 clock this morning. We had a 20 
 miles journey before us today over a 
 
barren, sandy road to Little Sandy, 
 where we a.-iived at ten o'clock at 
 night. We were disappointed in find- 
 ing grass here and our cattle were 
 carelled and watched till morning, 
 Messrs. Beal, Otzman and Hinkley, 
 who had becorao very much dissatisfi- 
 ed with Mr. Sweazy, purchased three 
 yoke of cattle of another company to- 
 day, joined Mr. Bolton in his wagon, 
 took their proportion of provisions 
 and le't the train. They drove onto 
 join Mr. Dexter's train, which had 
 passed na in the morQioif. 
 
 Tuesday 23rt] -We were up al .3 o'- 
 clock this morning and drove six 
 miles to Big Sandy, where we found 
 excellent grass by driving down the 
 stream 4 miles and encamped. We 
 are now six miles on the Soublett's 
 Cat-off and as there is no water and 
 but little grass for 40 miles to come, 
 we intend driving it throngh without 
 stopping. 
 
 I 
 Wednesday 24th-In exploring the j 
 creek some of our men discovered I 
 better grass a mile bolow and our cat- 1 
 tie were drivei-. to it. All hands start- \ 
 ed down the creek early lliis morning i 
 to cut grass for a feed through tl e j 
 Cut-off. I took my gun and had the i 
 good luck to kill four sage hens and a 
 large hare, with which J returned to 
 camp in time to have them cooked for 
 dinner. Gooseberries were growing 
 in great quantities along the banks of 
 the creek, of which the ladies made us 
 some excellent pies. These, with the 
 game, made us one of the best meals 
 we ha\e had on the road. The cattle 
 were brought in at 1 o'clock p. m., and 
 we started at 5 driving all night. Tt 
 was a beautiful raoonlisi'lit night and 
 
 for the first2o miles, one of the best 
 natural roads T have ever seen, being 
 firm and level as a floor. 
 
 July, Thursday 25th-Stopped to 
 breakfast at 4 o'clock in a deep ra- 
 vine, having made about thirty miles. 
 From this point the road runs over a 
 succession of high hills, many of them 
 somewhat tiresome and difficult to 
 pass till it reached Green river. We 
 arrived at Green river at 4 o'clock p 
 m , having been 25 hours out. The 
 cattle were forded over and drove 
 four miles above to graze. The wag- 
 ons were left to be ferried over in the 
 morning. There is a regularly estab- 
 lished ferry h*>re. I he charge for 
 crossing a wagon is five dollais. At 
 one time this morning we were nearly 
 encircled by snow covered mountains. 
 
 Friday 26th-After ferrying the wag- 
 ons this morning I went with a party 
 of four others to relieve the cattle 
 watch, who had been out all night. 
 We carried our guns and fishing tac- 
 kle with us. Two fine trout were taken 
 from a clear creek running near our 
 camp, which we had for supper. Mr. 
 Dexter, who had passed us at Big 
 Sandy, was also encamped at the 
 ferry and the cattle of the two trains 
 were herded together as usual. 
 
 Saturday 27th-We commenced driv- 
 ing the cattle to camp at sunrise, but 
 did not get in till ten o'clock, owing 
 lo the difficulty of taking them through 
 a dense grove of willows for a quarter 
 of a mile, where we frequently lost 
 .sight of them altogether. The road 
 from thi.s place continues down the 
 river two miles and »hen strikes into 
 
the mountains again to the right Af- 
 ter winding about in every direction 
 for a distance, variously s'ated at 
 from six to nine miles in which we of- 
 ten caught sight of the river from the 
 mountain peaks, we reached a clear 
 and rapid creek up which we traveled 
 two miles and encamped. In passing 
 out to the mountains from Green river 
 we met a party of Snake Indians, 
 twenty in number, all on horseback 
 who were very friendly, shaking hands 
 with us and offering to barter us 
 deer skins iind moccasins. 
 
 Sunday 28th -Left our encampment 
 early and traveled about twenty miles 
 Fifteen miles on the road we came up- 
 on an encampment of Shoshone or 
 Snake Indians, at least 500 in number, 
 all well armed and mounted. As they 
 caught sight of us descending a high 
 blutf, they galloped towards lis in 
 "iieat numbers and nearly surrounded 
 our wagons. They were very friendly 
 shaking hands as usual and offering 
 to "swop" dressed deer skins and 
 luoccasins for a variety of goods in 
 our possession. The articles most in 
 de?nand were powder, lead, shot, per- 
 cussion caps, tobacco, sugar, clothing 
 and what is most singular, umdrellas. 
 This latter article appears to be worn 
 more for ornament than use; for we 
 noticed one fellow yesterday place his 
 under his blanket at the commence- 
 ment of a slight shower. Bargains 
 could be readily had for anything they 
 wanted. A quarter of a pound of 
 powder was sold for a dollar in 
 money. Two boxes of percussion 
 cups would procure a large dressed 
 deer skin etc. I purchased a good 
 oair of moccasins for 5 cents worth of 
 tobacco and was otfered two pair more 
 
 for an old vest I had on, that ought 
 to have been thrown away a month 
 ago; but the evening was cold and I 
 was too fur behind my wagon to part 
 with it. The favorite mode of wearing 
 a vest appears to be with the buttons 
 behind. They are reaping a rich har- 
 vest (at least they think ?o) in picking 
 up the old cast-off garments of the 
 emigrants. We encamped at a spring, 
 in a small valley with a high bluff on 
 our right. This bluff is an immense 
 oyster bed, the whole of the summit 
 being covered with fossils of this des- 
 cription of a large size; some of them 
 measuring nine inches in length. 
 
 Monday 29th-Soon after leaving our 
 encampment we commenced crossing 
 and ascending a succession of bluffs 
 for a distance of five miles, till we 
 reached the base of a mountain, full 
 500 feet in height and most difficult to 
 pass, being very steep, and ihe road 
 so constructed with cobble-stones and 
 broken fragments of rock, as to en- 
 danger our wagons continually. Up 
 this rough passage our cattle hud to 
 toil for half an hour, till "we arrived 
 at the summit, when we immediately 
 commenced descending again and af- 
 ter a drive of two and a half miles, ar- 
 rived at Ham's Fork of Green river. 
 a bold clear streani, 30 yards wide, 
 where we encamped with an abundant 
 supply of grass. We met another 
 party of Shoshone Indians here, with 
 whom we soon struck up a brisk trade 
 for deer skins and mocasins. They 
 were accompanied by a Canadian half 
 breed, who spoke good Englisli and 
 gave us some valuable information 
 concerning the road for 200 miles a- 
 liead of us. He was a crippleby a 
 fall from a horse and drawn on a kind 
 
 29 
 
of sledge driven by a squaw. He be- 
 longed to a trading post two miles be- 
 low on the river. 
 
 Tuesday 30th-This morning the 
 ground was covered with a white frost 
 and ice formed in our buckets a quart- 
 er of an inch thick. After passing 
 up the side of a steep mountain, by a 
 road even worse than that of yester- 
 day, our ascent was gradual for nine 
 miles, when it became more abrupt, 
 till we finally reached the summit, 12 
 miles from our last encampment 
 From the top of this mountain, we had 
 a most delightful view of the surround- 
 ing country. For many acres in ex- 
 tent, the ground was covered with a 
 rich carpet of wild flowers of every 
 color and many of them common in 
 the Western States A dense grove 
 of fir and aspen trees, through which 
 our road had just passed, bounded 
 our view on the east, while all around 
 and nearly on a level with where wl' 
 stood, snow banks weie piled in the 
 mountain gorges. Bear i-iver, its 
 banks fringed with willows, could be 
 traced in the distance, while on all 
 sides, far as the eye could penetrate, 
 barren and rugged mountain peaks 
 formed the horizon. From this point 
 the road descends again for tliiee 
 miles, by a circuitous route, till it 
 reaches a small cri^ck, where we en- 
 camped, 
 
 Wednesday 31st-This morning we 
 passed over the last ridge separating 
 us from Bear River, The descent of 
 this ridga is probably the worst on 
 this chain of mountains; the road be- 
 ing crooked, steep and much obstruct- 
 ed by jutting rocks. The distance 
 from the summit to the base is pro- 
 bably a mile, but there is only a hun- 
 
 dred yards of very bad road; the rest 
 is cnmparalively good. From this 
 to Bear river valley, the road is ex- 
 cellent. Having stuck to the valley 
 at 2 o'clock, we tra\eled down the 
 course of the five miles and encamped 
 on Smith's Fork; a clear stream 30 or 
 40 yards wide, coming in irom the east. 
 
 Thursday August Ist-Ten miles on 
 our road today we came to Bear river 
 for the first time. Here we took din- 
 ner and turned our cattle out to graze. 
 At this point it is a dirty sluggish 
 stream, unlike any other on the route- 
 It makes a sudden angle here fi-ora 
 north to west, leaving the road, which 
 passes up the valley due north miles 
 to Thomas Fork. Before accomplish- 
 ing this six miles, however, the road 
 makes a gradual turn to the left to a- 
 void a marsh and takes a west course 
 for some distance to the Fork. We 
 encamped a little below the ford, where 
 we had fine sport in fishing. The cat- 
 tle were crossed to a small island, 
 where they had an abundance of feed 
 for the night. 
 
 Friday 2nd-The road crosses the 
 creek here, runs down it for a mile 
 and then bears off in a west course, 
 for 7 miles through a chain of hills, 
 separating Thomas Fork and Hear 
 River. From the top of one of these 
 hills we had a fine view of Bear Lake 
 on our left. A high range of snow- 
 capped mountains borders the valley 
 in the same direction. In this 7 miles 
 there are three very bad hills to pass; 
 one ascending and two descending. 
 The one descending to Bear river val- 
 ley is probably the worst this side of 
 the Sierra Nevada. Four miles frOra 
 this we struck Big Timber on Bear 
 
 30 
 
river. Here we took dinner. In driv- 
 intf our cattle to water one yoke swam 
 across. Mr. Moore, a Canadian by 
 birth, in attempting to swim after them 
 came near loosing his life. He was 
 carried down the stream by the force 
 of the current for a considerable dis- 
 tance to a steep bank on the same side 
 from whence he started, where by 
 great exertion he managed to hold on 
 till Mr. Mills ran to his assistance. 
 He was taken from the water nearly 
 exhausted. Like a true hero, how- 
 ever, he started in again at a more 
 favorable point and succeeded this 
 time in bringing the cattle back. 
 From this point we traveled down the 
 river six miles to Spring Branch and 
 encamped 
 
 Saturday 3rd- We traveled about 20 
 miles today. Eleven miles on our 
 road we took dinner at a cool spring 
 rising from the centre of a 
 marsh to the left of the road. After 
 this the road leaves the valley and 
 passes over achain of bluffs to Loda 
 Springs. After traveling seven miles, 
 we turned from the road 2 miles, 
 struck the river again and encamped. 
 Here we found a great abundance of 
 wild currants. There were three vari- 
 eties; red, yellow and black, all differ- 
 ing materially from the common gard- 
 en currant. 
 
 Sunday 4th-Today at 1 o'clock p. 
 m., we arrived at Soda Springs, the 
 greatest natural curiosity on the 
 route, or perhaps in the world. I 
 shall not attempt a description of them 
 here, but refer the reader to Fremont 
 and others who have visited this won- 
 derful place. After two hours spent in 
 examining the Springs, we moved on 
 
 down Bear river m a south west 
 course for 5 miles to the forks of the 
 road; the Fort Hall road turning to 
 the right and Myer's or Headgpeth's 
 Cut-off to the left. We took the Cut- 
 off • Our road from the springs has 
 been through a volcanic region; and 
 I soon after turning from the river into 
 . the Cut-off and for ten miles on, the 
 ' whole valley is marked by yawning 
 chasms and burnt and blackened 
 mas.ses of rock and cinders. A large 
 crater was seen three miles distant to 
 I the right. Two of our party visited 
 I this place and stated it to be 300 
 yards in diameter and 60 feet deep, 
 I We made a mistake in not filling our 
 , water kegs at the river, for with all 
 ' our exertions in examing the ravines 
 I and by sending a man ahead on a 
 ' mule to a chain of mountains over 
 which our road was to pass, we were 
 I compelled to stop at nine o'clock at 
 night, without a drop of water either 
 for man or beast. We were fortunate 
 ; in having cows along, as they furnish- 
 I ed milk for supper. The grass along 
 j the road for ten miles after leaving the 
 I river, is as good as I Jiave seen on the 
 whole route and there is no difficulty 
 to be encountered here, provided the 
 precaution is taken to water the teams 
 \ at the river and carry water along for 
 supper and breakfast. 
 
 Monday 5th- At daylight the cattle 
 were yoked and a party of five started 
 in advance to look for water. When 
 about four miles on, we discovered a 
 notice, stuck on a stick, by the road- 
 side, stating that it was four- 
 teen miles to water. We were 
 soon relieved from the disagree" 
 able reflections occasioned by this 
 piece of intelligency by meeting with 
 
 31 
 
Mr. Moore. He had been in advance 
 of us 2 miles on horseback aid had 
 discoveredjwater. From the op of a 
 hill, two hundred yards from where we 
 stood, we first caught sight of the 
 waters of a clear mountain stream, 
 sparkling up at different points among 
 the willows fringing its banks. Our 
 road crossed the creek at the nearest 
 point and we were not long in reaching 
 the spot. It is hardly necessary to 
 state that we did ample justice to ft 
 warm breakfast, served up without de- 
 lay, on the banks of this delightful 
 mountain stream. Two newly made 
 graves were on the bank of this creek. 
 One I shall note down; thaj; of John 
 Dennis of St. Louis, Mo., who, it was 
 stated on his tomb, had died on the 
 29th of June, having been left here a- 
 lone by his company and requesting 
 that his family should be informed of 
 the circumstances. As an act of hu- 
 manity another company had attended 
 him in his sickness and buried him on 
 this spot. Our course from here was 
 up a mountain for a mile by a very 
 good road. From the top of this 
 mountain looking to the west down a 
 ravine by which the road descends, 
 the scenery is grand and beautiful al- 
 most beyond description. A painter 
 traveling to California should not fail 
 to visit this spot. Here he will find a 
 scope for his genius that will repay 
 him for a trip across the plains. Here 
 he will find every variety of coloring 
 within the power of the imagination 
 to conceive. From the dark and 
 blackened mass of rock, torn up and 
 thrown in every variety of shape by 
 volcanic action, to the pure white 
 of snow-covered mountains. From 
 the sombre colored cedar, filling up 
 the ravines and dotting the hill sides 
 
 to the luxuriant green carpeting the 
 gentler acclivities. While in ever^ 
 direction, wild flowers and decaying 
 plants that have had their season, 
 will meet his view and give to the 
 whole the many colored tints of the 
 rainbow. To the painter this spoi 
 will possess a charm seldom equalled 
 in the world. But to the mere 
 business visitor all interest is 
 merged in the difficulty of the moun- 
 tain pass; for it is one of the worst 
 wagon roads I have ever seen. For 
 two or three miles down a deep and 
 dark ravine it goes winding its course 
 to a clear mountnin stream; sometimes 
 climbing hill-sides to avoid deep ruts 
 worn by a rivulet, having its source 
 mid-way up the mountain; at others 
 descending to the bed of the rivulet, 
 where it is often so obstructed by 
 jutting rocks as to endanger at almost 
 every step the safety of the wagons. 
 At the outlet of this ravine and within 
 view of the creek to the left, is an im 
 mense pile of dark volcanic rock, 
 thrown up full three hundred feet in 
 height, in the crevices of which hun- 
 dreds of ravens and magpies were 
 perched, 'croaking and chattering at us 
 as we passed. Our wa^rons oil camo 
 safely through and we drove to the 
 creek and encamped. Here we hatl 
 an abundance of grass, wood and 
 water. The distance from the last 
 creek is probably four miles. 
 We traveled in all, ten miles. 
 
 Tuesday August 6th-This day we 
 traveled 12. Three miles over a roll- 
 ing country brought us to the creek a- 
 gain on which encamped again last 
 night. At this place it is wide and 
 deep, having received a number of 
 tributaries in its winding course. Just 
 
 32 
 
below here in a thick grove of willows, 
 the water spreads out for a hundred 
 yards and takes a leap down the rocks 
 forming- a cascade, the roarinjjf of 
 which may be heard two railes distant, 
 Here the road leaves the creek. Seven 
 miles further on, we reached a large 
 pond covered with a rank growth of 
 bull-rushes and a tall species of grass. 
 There is a good spring Kerc in the 
 bank of a pond and a deep sluggish 
 creek 20 feet wide, running in a north 
 course on the opposite side. We con- 
 tinued on to the south for two miles 
 to where the creek is full of rushes 
 and encamped. The water of the 
 stream is rather unpalatable, owing to 
 the dead grass and rushes through 
 which it passes. There was a great 
 number of wild ducks and geese found 
 here, but as my health would not per- 
 mit me to expose myself in wading in 
 mud and water, T did not attempt to 
 hunt them. Mr. Moore started in pur- 
 suit of them as soon as we encamped 
 and stayed out to such a late hour 
 tliat we became alarmed about him. 
 He came in at 9 o'clock at night with 
 a dozen ducks, principally blue wing- 
 ed teal. Mr. Fewer also killed four 
 or five near our caraHe and we had an 
 abundance for one good meal. Our 
 only fuel here was wild sage. 
 
 Wednesday 7th-Leaving the creek, 
 nur ascent was gradual to the top of a 
 mountain 9 miles distant. Descending 
 this ridge half a mile from the summit 
 is an excellent spring, a little to the 
 left of the road. A little below this, 
 where the water leaps down a rock 
 six or eight feet, some traveler before j 
 as had amused himself in arranging ' 
 i small water wheel, which was in ac- ' 
 ;ive operation as we passed. A mile 
 
 I further on at the foot of the ridge, is a 
 j small creek. We had the misfortune 
 j to lose one of our oxen here. It drop- 
 [ ped dead in the yoke, 20 yards from 
 the creek. Half a mile from here is 
 another small creek, where we encamp- 
 ed. Both these streams run to the 
 south and no doubt emjjty into the 
 one we left this morning. We met a 
 small company of traders here from 
 Salt Lake and bound for Fort Hall by 
 a blind trail turning to the right 
 The Salt Lake road enters the Cut-olf 
 road 15 miles ahead. It is 30 railes 
 from this point to Fort Hall and 150 
 to Salt Lake. There was a great num- 
 ber of dead cattle and horses in this 
 small valley, many of them in the 
 creek and we had to go up the stream 
 half a mile to procure water fit for use. 
 For days-yes, I may say for weeks the 
 road has been strewn with the dead 
 carcases of these poor animals. 
 
 Thursday 8th-After ascending a 
 ridge for 2 miles today, the road was 
 principally descending over a rolling 
 country for 7 miles to a creek Here 
 we took dinner and were visited by a 
 party of Shoshone Indians. One mile 
 from this and we had an excellent road 
 for six railes, gradually descending 
 to another clear creek, where we en- 
 camped. Another paity of Indians, 
 20 in number, met us here, and annoy- 
 ed us considerably till after dark in 
 begging for food. After our supper 
 was over we gave them a pot of mush, 
 sorae bacon gravy and a few biscuit, 
 which they ate voraciously and went 
 away apparently very well satisfied 
 with their fare. They had been so im- 
 pudent in their demands, that we 
 deemed it expedient to make some show 
 of resistance and our guns were all 
 
 33 
 
brought out and loaded in their pre- i 
 sence. A double «(uard was set but 
 we heard no luore of them during the 
 nijfht. Tlie Salt Lake road takes 
 down tln.s valley and tlie Cut-off bears j 
 more to the west over a ran!,''e ' of 
 mountains. i 
 
 I 
 
 Friday 9th-Ei{^ht miles this morning ; 
 over a gradually ascending road, six 
 miles of which is so closely hemmed in j 
 on either side as to render it almost ' 
 impossible for a wagon to deviate 
 from the beaten road a rod, brought 
 us to the top of another mountain 
 ridge. This hill though not one of the 
 most dangerous we have passed, is 
 certainly the most tiresome one on 
 cattle I have seen. The road which 
 is very hard, is covered with rock 
 broken iato small pieces, rendering 
 the footing insecure, is very steep and 
 about a mile from top to bottom. Af- 
 ter this for nine miles the road is ex- 
 cellent. Three miles gradually des- 
 cending and the rest a perfect level. 
 Three miles from the foot of the hill 
 we passed down a broad, dry valley 
 for tj miles to a spring on the side of a 
 hill, one mile to the left, the place be- 
 ing indicated by trails starting out at 
 dififerent points from the main road. 
 We encamped at this place There is 
 no water between this and the creek we 
 left this morning; a distance of eigh- 
 teen miles. By damming up the rivu- 
 let, we procured water enough for 
 our cattle. 
 
 Saturday lOth-For eight miles this 
 morning our route was over a rolling 
 country to a creek. There was also 
 two springs of clear, cool water here. 
 Immediately after leaving the creek, 
 we commenced ascending a high ridge 
 
 of the mountains, which continued for 
 four miles, when we struck into a pass 
 where the road was nearly level for 5 
 miles. Two miles in this pass we 
 found a cool spring, up a ravine a 
 little to the left of the road. We stop- 
 ped for supper five miles within the 
 pass; and as we had been unsuccessful 
 in finding grazing for the cattle, we 
 determined to travel for a few hours 
 in the night in hopes that we would 
 soon come to a creek. With this un- 
 derstaDding, Mr. Sw»a8y, Pritohard 
 and myself, started in advance to 
 choose a favorable i)lace for an en- 
 campment. We traveled six mihs 
 and seeing no termination to the ])ass, 
 concluded to wait till the wagons came 
 up. Having remained here for iialf an 
 hour and hearing no sound of their 
 approach, we retraced our steps fo, 
 4 miles and found our friends all a- 
 sleep and the cattle tied up. On ac- 
 count of the darkness of the night 
 they had advanced only two miles 
 after we loft tln-iii. 
 
 Sunday lllli VVefontinued on doi\'n 
 the pass for live miles this inornini;\ 
 where we found a scant supply of grass 
 and halted for bri?i?kfast on a rivulet 
 heading a little above us in the moun- 
 tains. At 12 o'clock we were again on 
 the road and after traveling .{ miles 
 down the rivulet. which we crossed 
 several times, wo arrived at the moutli 
 of the pass. The distance through 1 
 have set down at fifteen miles. In 
 this distance there are several good 
 springs. There is also some grass and 
 the first emigrants would experience 
 no difficulty in this respect. The 
 greatest objection to traveling a place 
 like this is i)erhaps the dust. This al- 
 though seldom si)oken of, has been a 
 perpetual source of annoyance for the 
 
 34 
 
last 500 miles. The soil is of a light 
 volcanic character, and the least 
 breeze or the trainping- of the cattle, is 
 sufficient to raise it in such clouds as 
 to envelope a whole train to such an 
 extent as to render it difficult to distin- 
 guish the wagons at a few yards dis- 
 tant. Sometimes too, a whirlwind will 
 come sweeping up a ravine, carrying 
 the dust spirally mountain high 
 and almost smothering teams and 
 teamsters in its passage. In this pass 
 may be seen again, some of those 
 beautiful mountain views I have re- 
 marked in other places. As I was 
 considerably ahead of the train and 
 out of the dust, I had a fair oppor- 
 tunity of observing tiieuj. From the 
 mouth of the pass we traveled 12 miles 
 to a creek, the head waters of Raft 
 Kiver and encamped. During the af- 
 ternoon we had a I'efreshing shower. 
 The road for the last 30 miles with the 
 exception of two or three crossings of 
 small creeks has been equal to a 
 turnpike. 
 
 Monday 12ih-We did not move to- 
 .lay, till 12 o'clock and traveled only 
 six miles to another branch of Raft 
 river, where we encamped. Here ends 
 Myers' Cut-off; the Fort Hall road 
 toming i.i on the west side of the 
 <',reek, Tae distance through I have 
 stated at 125 mile.^. The distance by 
 Fort Hall is said to be 145 miles; so 
 that there is only 20 miles saved in 
 taking the cu'.-ofT. I would alvise 
 emigrants in making choice of the two 
 routes to choose, if possible, the one 
 least traveled. The Cut-off is un- 
 doubtedly the sliorteit but the Fort 
 ilull route has the preference as a 
 wagon road. Grass is abundant and 
 wutei may be procured at couven- 
 
 I lent distances on either route. 
 
 Tuesd y 13 We traveled 13 niilfs to- 
 ' day. For six miles the road fellows 
 up the c mrse of the creek, where it 
 crosses and bears off due south to 
 avoid a spur of the mountain. Be- 
 yond thi«i, within seven miles, are two 
 very good springs, to the right of the 
 road: the first near a mile off, the lat- 
 ter at which we encamped a quarter of 
 a miic. 
 
 Wednesday lUh-We started oarly 
 this morning and traveling 8 mihfs, in 
 wiiicli wo ciossel several small creeks, 
 we arrived at the base of a lofty 
 mountain, covered with pine and <-3dar, 
 where the road takes a west course 
 through a deep gorge, called Pyramid 
 Valley, displaying to the traveler 
 scenery of the mo-t wild and rnpiestie 
 character. Three miles withiii the 
 gorge, an immense granite boulder re- 
 sembling in the distance some old 
 dilapidated castle and on which hun- 
 dreds of names are inscribed, risus up 
 full a hundred feet in height, in the 
 shade of wh'ch we halted for our mid- 
 , lay meal. A clear mountain livulet 
 •vas coursing its way down a ravine a 
 few yards distant. Leaving tjiis place 
 we traveled eleven miles to a spiing on 
 the s.de of a mountain, where ws en- 
 camped havinjf traveled 22 miles. 
 During the afternoon we had a heavy 
 shower of rain. 
 
 Thursday 16ih It was niae o'clock 
 this mornicg before we were on the 
 road again. Notwithstanding our 
 late start, however, we made eighteen 
 miles. Twelve miles brought us to a 
 place where the road and a brauch of 
 the river passes through a carou in 
 
 35 
 
the mountain for 4 miles. This pass 
 at many points is so compressed tliat 
 tliete is barely room for a road and 
 .•o encumbered with frajjpents of rock, 
 whicli ims rolled down the mountain, 
 as to render it difficult for a wagon to 
 pass. The height of the mountain 
 'rom ll>e bed of the creek, is probably 
 iOO feet. On the lefc in many places, 
 .he walls of the canon are perpendicu- 
 la'-, while < n thi right they are more 
 slopic'r and all composed of a dark 
 Itasaltic rock. We encamped two 
 Diilesbeyond tliecanon and a mile to 
 the right of the main road. 
 
 Saturday 17ih-A distressing acci- I 
 dent occurred on the road this after* 
 aoon. Riehtud Sweasy, a b<jy ten 
 years old, fell from a wagon and one 
 of the wheels passed over his head. 
 At tirst it was thought he was billed 
 but he revived in a few seconds and 
 liis wound having been examined arid 
 Pressed, hopes are entertained that he 
 ,vill survive. A frightful gash was 
 cut the whole length of his cheel and 
 iiis ear nearly severed in the middle. 
 After traveling eleven miles this 
 morn ng, we arrived at the Valley of 
 rii(; Thousand Springs. At ilio en- 
 trance of the valley the water bursts 
 from under a high rock in a nun.ber ol 
 springs, forming a considerable 
 3'reara. A notice was jwsted up here 
 warning emigrants to bo prepared for 
 the Indians, wjio wer* committing de- 
 predations along the road. The i)arty 
 who had po'ilcd the notice had lost 12 
 Of 14 head of caitle and horses at this 
 3P'Mi';4' Onrarn? were immediately 
 got in readiness and at night a strong 
 guard placed over the cattle. That 
 part of the road pissed over in the 
 morning was hilly, barren and deso- 
 
 late; ihe only production of the soil 
 being wild sage with an occasional 
 stunted cedar. The whole country 
 around had a dark and dismal appear- 
 ance. We traveled 13 miles down the 
 valley of the Thousand Springs dur- 
 ing the afternoon; making in all 24 
 miles. We encamped in a valle/ with 
 a tolerable supply of grass but no 
 water. We had barely a suilicient 
 supply (>f water for tea in our casks, 
 with a jxospict of no coffee for break- 
 fast,. Som3 t>\enty wagons, besides 
 a number of i)ackers were encamped 
 in thd spico of half a mile, in this 
 valley, so we had nothing to fear from 
 an attack by tin Indians. In the even- 
 ing, a gentleman paid us a visit from 
 a neighboring wagon. He informed 
 us that his party had procured water 
 by digging and invited us to come 
 over and partake of it; an invitation 
 which we readily accepted 
 
 Sunday 18th Our road this morning 
 was up the valley in which we had en 
 camped. Ten miles brought uf to a 
 large spring, on the side of a marsh, 
 where we encamped, at 12 o'clock to 
 feed and rest our cattle Several 
 trains were stopping here and gave 
 us alarming accounts of the Indians 
 One compan} had just left with an ox 
 that had been shot and badly wound- 
 ed. Three arrows were found sticking 
 in his side and a bullet hole through 
 his nose The offense was cocmitted 
 in bioad d tylight, but the perpetra- 
 tors were not seen. Six Indians were 
 seen lurking in the wild sage, near our 
 encampm:;nt during the afternoon by 
 some packers who stopped near us. 
 A small company of emigrants came in 
 laH in the evening and encamped near 
 us. While in conversation with us 
 
 36 
 
thay m 'Dt'ODed havinff found tho body 
 of a dro-vned man on the North Platte, 
 on the 13lh ult. From the description 
 {(iven of his personal appearance, 
 dress, etc., there is no doubt tliat it 
 was the body of Win. Faulkner. Tfe 
 was discovered floating down the riv- 
 er thr^e miles below where he was 
 drowned and bavins' drifted on the 
 beach, was taken from the water and 
 buried by them. 
 
 Monday August 19lh-A vigilant 
 guard had been placed over the cattle, 
 but nothing transpired last night, de- 
 noting the presence of Indians in our 
 vicinity. I wa'^ on watch from 10 till 
 1 o'clock. It was a clear moonlight 
 night; the cattle had eaten their fill 
 and were reposing in the valley, in 
 the space of 2 acres; and no sound 
 was heard to break the perfect still 
 ness of the night save the low tinkling 
 of the cow-bells or the occasional 
 mournful howling of some hungry 
 wolf. We started our teams at the 
 usual time in the morning and travel- 
 ed eight miles up the valley to the 
 boiling springs, where we took dinner. 
 There are a jireat nuinbe" of these 
 springs, forming quite a large creek 
 and so hot that the hand cannot be 
 held in them a second. Ten miles 
 fi'ora this we arrived at the head of the 
 valley, where there is a large spring 
 of excellent water, forming a creek 
 which we had been following up for 3 
 or 4 miles. Here we ex peeled to find 
 grass, but were disappointed and con- 
 tinued on over the dividing ridge to 
 Canon Creek, ten miles further, where 
 we encamped at 10 o'clock at night, 
 with a good supply of feed and water, 
 having traveled 28 miles. Canon 
 Creek is a tributary of Humboldt riv- 
 
 er. The soil here is very rich and tlie 
 whole valley is covered with a luxur- 
 iant growth of grass and wild rye. 
 Tin- night was cold; a tin cup filled 
 with water fri)ze solid to the bottom. 
 
 Tuesday 20th -Two miles down the 
 creek brought us to another canon and 
 one of the toughest and most trying 
 places on wagons I have s-een, The 
 canon is five miles through; the road 
 crossing the creek nine times. Three 
 miles within the canon are a number 
 oi boiling springs bursting from the 
 base of the mountain immediately into 
 the creek, rendering the water unfit for 
 use for several miles below. We were 
 put to some inconvenience in this re- 
 spect at dinner time by not taking 
 water above. We encamped on the 
 creek, five miles below the canon, hav- 
 ing made 12 miles. We have seen no 
 Indians yet, although we have daily 
 reports of their depredations along the 
 road. 
 
 Wednesday 21st At three o'clock p. 
 ni. we reached the first crossing of 
 Humboldt river, after traveling 15 
 miles. It is not over twenty feet wide 
 here and quite shallow. While at 
 diiin!:r-, four pack horsf^s tonk a stam- 
 pede two miles above us and came 
 down the road at full speed, with 
 camp kettles, cofifee pots and frying 
 pans fiying and making a noise simi- 
 lar to a well got up cheravarie. They 
 broke in among our cattle just as we 
 were herding them for a start, knock- 
 ing three of them down in their mad 
 career and horses and cattle falling in 
 a heap This brought them to a sud- 
 den halt, till we secured them for their 
 owners, who soon arrived in pursuit 
 
 37 
 
of them. Fortunately no damage was 
 done. We encamped on the river five 
 miles below the crossing. 
 
 Thursday 22nd-Indian signals were 
 heard during the night; and as we 
 proceeded on our journey this morn- 
 ing, we met a party of 12 on horse- 
 back, three miles below. They made 
 great professions of friendship, but we 
 doubted their sincerity and kept them 
 at a distance. Mr. Fewer had follow- 
 ed down the stream on a hunting ex- 
 cursion; he was intercepted by this 
 same band and had some difficulty in 
 getting rid of them; one laying hold 
 of his powder horn with a determina- 
 tion to take possession of it. They 
 desisted only, when he gave them to 
 understand that he would defend him- 
 self. When we stopped to dinner 
 three more visited our wagons. They 
 had been fishing; were entirely unarm- 
 ed and behaved very mildly. We pur- 
 chased some very fine trout from them; 
 gave them a share of our dinner, pre- 
 sented them with fish-hooks and they 
 left us highly delighted with their fare: 
 giving us to understand tis they part- 
 ed company, that they were "Uig- 
 gers." One of them asked for tobac- 
 co and being presented with a good 
 sized piece, to our astonishment, he 
 swallowed it all down in a few seconds 
 as if it had been so much bread. Trav- 
 eled fifteen miles and encamped on the 
 river, 
 
 Friday 23rd-A mile from our en- 
 campment we crossed another fork of 
 the river, coming in from the north- 
 west. Here the road passes over a 
 succcession of high ridges, sometimes 
 touching the riyer in its windings a- 
 
 mong the bluffs for four or Wve miles. 
 The wiiole valley along here for a dis- 
 tance of 16 or 18 miles, is quite nar- 
 row affording but a scant supply ql 
 
 I grass. VVe traveled twenty miles and 
 encamped on the river at a boiling 
 
 I spring. It throws out a volume of 
 water of near a foot in diameter and 
 is sutliciently hot to cook meat It is 
 situated in the bed of the river and 
 forms a pleasant bath, as you can 
 procure water at any temperature. 
 Several Indians were encamped near 
 us on the opposite side of the river. 
 One of our party having crossed over 
 on horseback in search of grass, they 
 became alarmed and scampered off. 
 They were pacified, however, w-hen 
 they discovered the object of his visit 
 and one of them ventured up to our 
 wagons and begged for something to 
 eat. 
 
 Saturday 24th-Mr. Dexter's train 
 came up with us this morning and 
 passed us after we had been on the 
 road about 3 hours. Between 3 and -4 
 o'clock p. m. we came to a .crossing 
 and another of those remarkable 
 places where the river breaks through 
 the mountains. The canon is about 
 five miles through and the road crosses 
 the river four times. At a short dis- 
 tance beyoad the tbird crossing', tiie 
 road passes down the bed of the river 
 for fifty yards; but there is no difficul- 
 ty for the stream is quite sliallow. 
 with a hard gravel bottom. We en- 
 camped with a good supply of grass, 
 two miles from the foot of the canon. 
 A good camp may be had at the foot 
 of the canon by fording the river. 
 Mr. Dexter encamped here. We 
 drove till after sundown and it was 
 quite dark before we had selected a 
 
 38 
 
suitable place to atop. Traveled L'l' 
 miles. 
 
 Sunday Aujjust 2.3tli-Since we struck 
 ihe ITumbolt valley the nijfhts have 
 ijeen coW and frosty. Lust nij^ht, 
 h )wever, was warm and sultry wltli 
 indications of rain. After travelin{>- 
 live miles, this morning', wi; arrived at 
 -.1 place where tlie road passes over a 
 chain of high barren bluffs for 17 
 miles. Water may be procured from 
 sevei-al smnli springs neur the road. 
 We commenced ascending the ijlutfs at 
 n o'clock, A. M.. and drove till after 
 dark: making a day's travel of about 25 
 .•niles. During the ufternoon we liad a 
 slight shower. We fell in with some 
 packers today, who came through by 
 ilie Salt Lake route. They had passed 
 over, a ninty mile desetrt, and gave 
 some distressing accounts of sutTeriug 
 on this road. A number who had 
 neglected to inform themselves with 
 regard to the route had started on the 
 desert without water, and had given up 
 to die, but were assisted and brought 
 through by other trains. They re- 
 lated instances where men had otVered 
 ten dollars foi- a drink of watei-, and 
 could not procure it at that price. 
 0;her*, who had got tlirough safe, re- 
 turned and sold water at a dollar a 
 quart. The Indians, too, have been 
 troublesome on this route. An Ohio 
 company had a battle with them and 
 killed seven: losing a man or two 
 themselves. An old man and his son, 
 a lad 12 or 14 years old, had been 
 /nurdered. The boy had been scalped 
 and the Hesh stripped from his body. 
 A number of emigrants, principally 
 packers, are now on the road with 
 scant supplies of provisions. We 
 have liad daily applications for flour, 
 
 bacon, etc., and in fact they have been 
 so ijressing in their demands, that we 
 deem it necessary to keej) a strict 
 guard over our wagons at night. Two 
 men were obs'M'ved nev r our caralle, 
 at 2 o'clock last night. Our dogs gave 
 tlift alarm and as it was a bright 
 moonlight night, they were seen sculk- 
 itig off among the sage bushes. 
 
 Monday 2Gth-Our cattle were on 
 ^liort grass last night: we consequent- 
 ly started early and drove two miles 
 fui'lhei- down the river before break- 
 fast. Mr. Dexter and company, who 
 had stopped four miles back, passed 
 us again on the opposite side of the 
 rivei- at 10 o'clock. Started again at 
 J2 o'clock and having drove eight 
 miles, encamped: making in all ten 
 miles. 
 
 Tuesday 27th-A j)orlion of our road 
 this murxiiug was ovoi a spur of the 
 mountain, to where we crossed the riv- 
 er :i;.;iin to the right liand side. Late 
 in the evening we passed a party of 
 Indians, twoor three hundred in num. 
 be), bathing in the river. We en- 
 camjjed a mile below them. The 
 guard was set early and due prepara- 
 tion made in case of an attack. The 
 selection of our camp ground was an 
 injudicious one. We were enclosed on 
 three sides by a dense growth of wil- 
 lows, while to the north, where our 
 cattle were left to graze, the wild rye 
 grew in such luxuriance as to com- 
 pletely hide them from our view, one 
 hundred yards distant. It was too 
 late, however, to mend the matter, and 
 we had to make the best of it. Having 
 learned that Mr. Pullyblank's train 
 was 15 miles behind us, Mr. Moore 
 
 39 
 
iin<l Jackson stopped back to see some 
 of our old acquaintances. As they 
 had not arrived at a late hour this 
 eveninjr, we were apprehensive that 
 they had taken down a road on the 
 opposite side of the river branchin^f 
 off the last crossing. Traveled 20 
 miles. 
 
 ihe river and passing over a barren 
 
 I a&ae country. Mr. Moore and Mr. 
 i Jackson came up with us again late 
 ' this evening. As we suspected they 
 I had taken the left hand road and 
 I passed us on the opposite side of the 
 I river. They were thirty-six hours 
 j without food and in the words of Mr. 
 I Moore '"caralled in the grass." 
 
 Wednesday 28lh-Once during the 
 night we were awakened by the yells of 
 the Indians, but as they did not 
 api>roaf.h us, we settled down quietly 
 to rest again. A greater portion of 
 the route yesterday, and for three 
 miles this morning, was over salaratus 
 ground. After this the road turns to 
 the right, close around a rocky point 
 of the uiounLain, and for ten miles 
 passes over a barren country, covered 
 with light ashus, which rises in clouds, , 
 at the slightest touch, till it strikes the | 
 river again. At this point the valley 
 opens out into an extensive plain, cov- ] 
 ered with thousands of acres of lux- 
 uriant grass. We traveled 7 miles 
 further down the river and encamped, 
 having made 20 miles. A company of 
 packers cncaiuped near us, and made 
 a demand for provisions On being 
 told our own supplies were short, they 
 said ihey knew better, that they were 
 "entirely out. and by God they must 
 liave sooit!" The matter was arrang- 
 ed by selling them a young heifer, 
 which they were not long in butcher- 
 ing. 
 
 Thursday 2fllh-We fell in with Mr. 
 Dexter's party again this morning, a- 
 bout four miles on the road and drove 
 in company the gre^tter part of the day. 
 We traveled 2i miles today. Six miles 
 of the road in the morning, leaving 
 
 Friday 30th-We still hear of depre- 
 dations by the Indians, but as yet 
 have experienced no difficulty with 
 them. Mr. Dexter, who encamped 
 three miles ahead of us last night, lost 
 a very fine horse. Near his camp on 
 the road a notice was posted up, warn- 
 ing emigrants of danger at this place 
 and recommending them to collect in 
 large bodies for mutual protection. 
 It was stated that several persons had 
 been shot near this and a great num- 
 ber of cattle and horses stolen. After 
 traveling down the river for nine miles 
 by a very heavy sandy road to the 
 river again where we bad considerable 
 ditticulty with our ca.ttle iiiiiing down 
 in attempting to drink from Ih 
 stream. We had to drag out several 
 with ropes. There was no wood lipre, 
 but we had provided a supply on tin 
 road for night and morning. Wholi 
 day's travel 32 miles. 
 
 Saturday 31st-This day we traveled 
 18 miles. During the greater part ol 
 the forenoon our route was along tht 
 foot of a barren sage ridge, bordered 
 by a wide spread marsh formed by th( 
 river. Near the foot of this marsh, 
 the road forks; the right hand trai! 
 bearing off in a north west course, 
 round an arui of the marsh, while the 
 left follows llie course of the riyer 
 The distance h.v the right hand trail 
 
 40 
 
to the junction of the two roads ajfain 
 is about live miles; that to the left is 
 only about t.vo. We took to the rig^ht 
 to avoid the crossing' of a bad slouffh, 
 and a side-hill road at the base of tJie 
 iiiiituHain on the opposite side of the 
 luarsh. An Indian was shot here a 
 few days since, and left unburied. An 
 Uliio company had thrown some aarth 
 ovei- him and stated, by an inscription 
 at his o^rave that he who had done this 
 deed, and thus left the body exposed 
 was worse than the untutored savag'e 
 whom he had killed. Weencampcd on 
 Ihi' river, live miles below this 
 
 Sunday Sept. 1st VVe traveled only 
 15 miles today over a barren sandy 
 ridtfi', runninjf with the course of the 
 river We encamped with a scant sup- 
 ply of {jrass. Mr. Jackson stopped 
 back this morning to wait for Mr. Pul- 
 !\ blank's train to come up. He in- 
 tends to pack throuirh from here and 
 will ix" joined by five or six others 
 fi'o;ii Mr. Pullyblank's company. 
 T'ji le is a considerable amount of suf- 
 foi-ing on the road for want of pro- 
 visions and we have daily demands 
 made upon our stores for relief. In 
 m(;.-^t cases we have given a little but 
 our own supplies are running short 
 and hereafter we have determined to 
 f xiend relief only in extreme cases 
 of sufifering. We came across a poor 
 feiiow today, drivinc: a bull before 
 him, packing his blanket, clothing, 
 C'loking utensils, etc lie was one of a 
 small train of three or four wagons 
 who had been unfortunate in losing 
 cattle till they were compelled to re- 
 sort to packing and had all finally be- 
 come separated. lie had gained his 
 subsistence along the Humboldt by 
 lisliing. His plan was to stop a day or 
 
 I two ocasionally in a good place and 
 j smoke his fish, which he bartered with 
 the emigrants for breadstuffs, sugar, 
 : CO flee, etc. 
 
 Monday 2nd-During the whole of 
 ' today the road was heavy and sandy 
 and our progress consequently very 
 slow. We encamped on the river ear- 
 ly in the evening in order to butcher 
 a beef. Traveled 12 miles. 
 
 Tuesday 3rd-Soon after leaving' our 
 encampment, we struck off from the 
 river on a high barren ridge covered 
 with ashes. The only production of 
 the soil here is a stunted growth of 
 artamesia and plants of this descrip- 
 tion. Our road continued over this 
 barren plain for ten miles, when it 
 again struck the river. Our journey 
 today was disagreeable enough on ac- 
 count of the clouds of dust that were 
 continually rising from the tramj)ing 
 of the cattle. We traveled 15 miles; 
 the latter portion of the road being 
 partly in the valley, till we finally 
 ciuerged into a wide valley of the river 
 covered witli very good grass, where 
 we encamped. Here we deemed it ex- 
 pedient to remain for a day and cut a 
 supply of grass for the desert 
 
 Wednesday 4th-Early this morning 
 each luan had his duty assigned him 
 for the day. The best grass was found 
 on the opposite side of the river. Two 
 men were accordingly sent back five 
 miles by the road to bring down a 
 wagon bed which we had observed 
 tied to some willows yesterday, which 
 had been converted into a boat. Mr. 
 Miiore was to be hunter and I, through 
 choice, remained in camp to procure 
 wood for baking and to fish. The dis- 
 
 41 
 
tance the boat had to be brought by 
 the course of the stream, proved to be 
 about twenty miles and it did not ar- 
 rive till near one o'clock. Mr. Moore 
 came in soon after with 15 ducks and I 
 had in the meantime caujfht sixteen 
 lish, averajfing half a pound apiece. 
 The hay was baled up and brought 
 over in the eveninjj. Here we were V)e- 
 set ajfain by a swarm of hungry emi- 
 grants asking for provi-sions. Our 
 own safety, however, compels us in 
 most cases to turn a deaf ear to their 
 entreaties for broadstuffs. During the 
 day we disposed of 75 pounds of beef 
 t > those most in need of relief. 
 
 Thursday 5tii-l'assing down the val- 
 ley of the river for ten miles this morn- 
 ing, we halted for dinner. Three 
 young men, packing on foot, overtook 
 us here, entirely out of provisions. 
 One of them was a mere boy and beg- 
 ed hard for a passage through by our 
 train, but our limited supplies forbids 
 the risk- of increasing our numbers, 
 Mr. Moore had taken up a stray ox 
 yesterday, which he shot down and 
 presented to them, with the under- 
 standing that they were to share it 
 with any others that might pass dur- 
 ing the day. We left here at three 
 o'clock and after traveling over a 
 ridge for eight miles turned to the riv- 
 er again a mile distant and encamped 
 on very short grass. 
 
 Friday 6th-We still continued down 
 Iho ridge by a heavy road, for eighteen 
 miles and encamped on a high blufif of 
 the river, without grass and had to 
 procure water by descending 150 feet 
 by a steep and winding path. Our 
 fuel was a stunted growth of artamesia 
 
 and it was with considerable labor 
 that we obtained a suflBcient supply. 
 
 Saturday 7th-Three miles down the 
 river this morning we stopped to graze 
 our cattle. Here we were doomed to a 
 day of tiresome inactivity. Three 
 hours were sufficient to graze our 
 teams but our leaders deemed it neces- 
 sary to throw away the entire day and 
 for the sake of peace, the company 
 submitted to the arrangement. I en- 
 deavored to pass off the time in tiahing 
 but in this I was uu.succussful and 
 j anally retired to my wagon to sleep. 
 
 I Sunday 8th-Por several miles this 
 I morning we passed over a singular 
 j strip of country, covered with turf, 
 I from six inches to two feet deep and 
 I which appears to have been once the 
 I bottom of a large lake. A great part 
 I of it had been burned and some por- 
 I ti<>ns of it was still burning. While 
 ; the wagons were passing by a circuit- 
 i ous route a number of us undertook 
 to make a near cut over a place that 
 had been recf-ntly burned, but were 
 forced to return to the road again on 
 account of the depth of ashes and cin- 
 j ders, into which we sometimes sunk 
 I above our knees and finding it quit'.! 
 I hot we became fearful of tumbling into 
 I Some burning pit and had to retreat. 
 Twelve miles from the place of start- 
 ing we stopped to take in water for the 
 desert, from a small spring under ;i 
 high bank of a slough to the left of 
 the road. The water was strongly iin- 
 |)regnated with sulphur. Four miles 
 below here, by the course of the rivrr 
 but ten miles by the road, we encamp- 
 ed at the Big Meadow, to cut grass. 
 It was quite dark when we arrived here 
 amid the glare of fifty campfires, bla/- 
 
 42 
 
ing- up from as many wag-ons, all on 
 the same errand as ourselves. This 
 day was ]ja,ssod in cuttini'- and curing 
 i,'Tass, baking I)read and otherwise 
 preparing for tlie desert, now 2'.', miles 
 distant 
 
 Tuesday lOlh-We traveled 18 miles 
 today and encamped on a shallow lake 
 around the border of which our road 
 liad been winding for half the day. 
 While passing through some tall, rank 
 grass this morning we came upon an 
 i-ncampment of four hundred Indians. 
 They were occupied in making hay 
 which they traded to the emigrants. 
 They appeared friendly, but we col- 
 lected our train together and kept near 
 our wagons to be ready for any emer- 
 gency that might happen. 
 
 \Vednesday llth-We reached the 
 link of Humboldt river, six miles, at 
 12 and entered the long looked for and 
 much dreaded desert. Our first im- 
 pressions with regard to its passage 
 were anything but agreeabl< , for in 
 the first 5 miles, the distance traveled 
 by day light we counted the dead car- 
 cases of 64 oxen and 55 horses and 
 mules. During the night we could not 
 Weep any account of the loss of stock, 
 but we know the average was greatly 
 increased as we neared Carson river, 
 the Desert on the south. The destruc- 1 
 tion of property here is immense. For 
 forty miles the road is strewn with j 
 abandoned wagons and sometimes the 
 whole of their contents except provi- 
 sions. Whole caralles, numbering i 
 five or six wagons, were found desert- [ 
 ed and the place literally covered with ' 
 dead cattle; many of them still tied to 
 the wheels of the wagons. The whole ; 
 air throughout the desert was tainted 
 
 j with the smell of carrion. The night 
 I was unusually cold and we passed 
 ^ several encampments where ])ersons 
 were burning wagons to warm them 
 selves. At 4 o'clock a. m. we came to 
 a halt by two or three old wagons 
 which we used as fuel for cooking. 
 During our journey in the night we 
 had left two cows and an ox on the 
 desert, unable to travel any further. 
 At i) o'clock one entire team gave out 
 and we were compelled to leave a wag- 
 gon within six miles of the river and 
 drive the cattle on to water. Mr. 
 Moore was left in charge of the wagon 
 with a supply of provisions and water 
 until we could recruit the teams and 
 return for it. It was brought in at 11 
 o'clock allright. 
 
 Thursday r2th-We reached Carson 
 river at 11 o'clock a. ra. and encamp- 
 ed. There are a number of temporary 
 recruiting establishments here, with an 
 abundance of provisions but the arti- 
 cles most in demand are generally held 
 at such extravagant prices. The 
 goods offered for sale here are trans- 
 ported from Sacramento on pack 
 mules. The distance across the desert 
 from the Link is 45 miles; two-thirds of 
 which has to be traveled over a very 
 heavy sandy road. 
 
 Friday 13th-Traveled six miles of 
 the way on a heavy sandy road and 
 finding our teams ware very much ex- 
 hausted we turned them out to graze 
 and did not move any further today. 
 
 Saturday 14-Passed over another 
 twelve mile desert today and were corn- 
 ed to leave a wagon with a man in 
 charge five miles back from our en- 
 campment. We traveled 16 miles in 
 
 43 
 
all and encamped on the river again 
 with very scant feed for the ciiltle. 
 Half way on our journey today we met 
 a mule team in charge of two Mexicans 
 transporting flour out to the emi- 
 grants. A train also passed us, re- 
 turning to Sacramento. The pros- 
 pect for getting through before snow 
 sets in on the mountains, begins to 
 look rather gloomy. Our teams are 
 very much reduced and if they do not 
 recruit soon we will be driven to the 
 alternate of trading away some of our 
 wagons and everything else that can 
 Ijossibly be dispensed with, in order 
 lo get through. 
 
 Sunday 15th-We drove only five 
 luiles today and encamped on the river 
 with a good supply of grass. Mr. 
 Sweasy contemplates stopping here 
 for three days. These unreasonable 
 delays have caused considerable mur- 
 muring in the company and will doubt- 
 less be the means of many leaving the 
 train. Mr. Pritchard is already pre 
 paring to pack through on foot and I 
 have no doubt many others will soon 
 follow his example. We are now 250 
 miles from Sacramento. 
 
 On the 18th Mr. Sweasy, much a- 
 gainst the will of the company having 
 declared his intention of remaining 
 three or four days longer, Messrs. 
 Mills, Lyon and myself, parted with 
 him having bargained with a specula- 
 tor in cattle to drive his baggage wag- 
 on through for our boarding. Owing 
 to the increased duties of guarding a 
 hundred head of cattle, being only 
 eleven men in company, I was forced 
 to discontinue my notes. The remain- 
 der of my Journal is made up from 
 
 recollection at a later period. 
 
 For three days we found the country 
 a succession of short deserts of four to 
 fifteen miles in extent, the road cross- 
 ing the river at two points until we 
 reached Carson Valley. The valley 
 is about twenty miles long and ten 
 miles wide and certainly one of the 
 most delightful spots on the face of the 
 earth. On the north it is bounded by 
 a high range of mountains, being the 
 first of the Sierra Nevada, covered 
 with pine trees of an immense size. 
 Carson river passes through the cen- 
 ter; while to the south barren and rug- 
 ged mountain peaks rise up in the dis- 
 tance. The road" passes close along 
 the base of the mountain on the north 
 and is intersected at short intervals by 
 clear and cool rivulets, winding their 
 couse to the river, through luxuriant 
 meadows: which notwithstanding the 
 immense emigration, still continues 
 to yield an undimished supply of 
 s^nass. Leaving Carson Valley the 
 road for six or eight miles, passes 
 over a range of high and barren bluffs 
 and enters Carson River Canon, i 
 shall not attempt a description of this 
 mountain pass but simply^ re-mark, 
 that for the passage of wagons, this is 
 as diffif.ult, perhaps, as the imagina- 
 tion can conceive. The distance 
 through is five miles: in which the. riv- 
 er has to be crossed a number of times 
 on rude bridges, constructed by the 
 first emigrants and the wagons were 
 constantly endangered by jumping 
 from perpendicular edges and jutting 
 rocks, in one respect this is altogeth- 
 er unlike any other part of the route, 
 for two thousand miles. On entering 
 the canon the difficulty of the passage 
 
 44 
 
is almost forgotten in tlio atfreeab'e 
 sensation produced by the sliadc of a 
 dense pine forest. Weencaiuped in a 
 small valley at the head of the canon. 
 Thenijfhtwai cold and frosty the 
 grazing scant, our cattle wandered 
 considerably and the task of following 
 them over marshy ground with wet 
 feet was disagreeable in the extreme. 
 We broke up our encampment at an 
 early hour and after passing nearly 
 south between two high ranges of 
 mountains, over gently undulating 
 ground during the greater part of th«; 
 day we encamped near the base of the 
 second range. Here we held ourselves 
 ready all night and at daylight were 
 somewhat surprised to find the moun- 
 tains white with snow. Our fears in 
 this respect, however, were removed 
 by the snow melting off again in the 
 course of the forenoon, when we com- 
 menced the ascent of the second range. 
 There is no difficulty here that may 
 not be overcome with fresh and strong 
 teams. We accomplished the task in 
 about three hours and after driving 
 half a day, again descended to a small 
 lake at the foot of the third and last 
 range, at all ordinary times the mar- 
 gin of this lake affords good grazing, 
 but we were compelled to drive over 
 another hill and through a narrow 
 pass into another narrow valley. We 
 were late and night overtook us in the 
 middle of the pass. The cattle wan- 
 dered into ravines branching off into 
 another valley and ?,fter an unsuccess- 
 ful attempt to herd Ihem, we finally ! 
 had to dismount and lead our mules . 
 over broken rocks between high preci- ' 
 pice. We were com])f;lled at length to ' 
 encamp and take our chance where we , 
 
 The V 
 
 were. 
 
 With a fresh team, selected from our 
 herd of cattle, on the morning succeed- 
 ing our night adventure in the moun- 
 tain pass, we commenced the ascent of 
 the third and last range. This was 
 our worst day, dead horses and cattle 
 strewn the road from end to end. It 
 is sufficient indications of the terrible 
 hardshios to be encnnnt^rod by those 
 less fortunate than ourselves. Two of 
 our best horses died during our en- 
 campment, before reaching the sum- 
 mit. We were also for a time in the 
 region of eternal snow. 
 
 Five of our best mules were lost on 
 the night following our departure from 
 the summit. Having information 
 through a prospecting party that we 
 were in the neighborhood of Indians 
 numbering about six hundred, sus- 
 pected the mules had been stolen. 
 Arrangements were accordingly made 
 to hunt them. Eight men, well armed, 
 were despatched to the pasture for that 
 purpose. The remaining three, among 
 whom was myself, were detailed in 
 charge of the baggage wagon; we had 
 little to fear the Indians being unarm- 
 ed, with no signs of hostility and our 
 display of force was considered amjjly 
 sufficient to resist an attack if neces- 
 sary. We were saved from further de- 
 tention by finding the mules about a 
 mile distant where they had strayed 
 during the night. 
 
 During the remainder of our journey 
 nothing occurred worth recording after 
 this long period of camp life. AV'r; 
 reached the gold mines without further 
 adventure the first day of October, si.\ 
 months from the time of leaving home, 
 '^nd. 
 
 45 
 
3477-162 
 
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