ss He PLANT CULTURE By GEORGE W. OLIVER. Propagator to the Bureau of Plant Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. THIRD EDITION In this enlarged and revised edition Mr, Oliver gives the teachings gleaned and sifted from his experience as a practical working gardener, supplemented by that gained through many years in his specialty of plant propagating for the United States Department of Agriculture at Washington. He not only deals with those plants which are cultivated by the commercial florist, gardener and nurseryman for profit, but treats as well on the care and management of a diversity of other plants which are all interesting, but which do not generally receive the full or proper attention at the hands of authors of most horticultural works. Tells in language easily understood by the average reader the essential points in the methods of raising and caring for StOV€ Bedd Vase Hard Bulb There U Seeds, Grafi Drainage, S Six pag mentioned, 1 On showing Magnifi Bulb P: Germin Strong Price, NOTE enlarged an subjects tre in the Sumn will be fron: I } \ A.T.DE CojpghtN". Plants ods Propagation by Potting Plants, ex of all plants } engravings, f ains Highly j LS of Ferns, i of Gladioli. pes $1.65 edition, greatly germane to the on will be issued 11 at this writing, :. New York CCEXRIGHT DEPOSm OUI iOOKS } ) ) Suburl Improvement, Landscape oaraening, A,rcniieci:ur«; lur luc v^uuncry ^Houses, Bunga- lows, Barns, Garages, Gates, Garden Furniture, etc.)> Flowers, Plants, Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Perennials, the Farrri, Agriculture, Soils, Domestic Animals, Dairying, Poultry, Bees, Birds, Butterflies, Fertilizers and Manures, Plant Diseases and Remedies, Insect Pests and Specifics, Indoor Games and Outdoor Sports, Boats, Motors, Camping, Cook Books, and the 1001 subjects treating on life in the country and suburbs, send for our DESCRIPTIVE CATALOG OF COUNTRYSIDE BOOKS. Mailed free. It contains hundreds of titles, the contents of each book being carefully summarized. } A. T. DE LA MARE CO. inc. 448 W. 37th St., New York ) COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Copyright, 1918, by A. T. DE LA MARE CO., Inc. All rights reserved PQ ^-— fTTI IIITTTTTITIII rTTTTT T I IITITriirTrrillllTIIIIIII III IIIlIIII IllII HI II U l I III H Il LLLLUJ x~w COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION AN EXPOSITION OF THE ART AND SCIENCE OF INCREASING PLANTS AS PRACTICED BY THE NURSERYMAN, FLORIST AND GARDENER By ALFRED C. HOTTES ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF HORTICULTURE OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY NEW YORK A. T. DE LA MARE COMPANY, inc. 1918 'm ^f s ~; i^mxxj.x.LLLXj 1 1 1 1 1 n I I T 1 1 1 1 r T 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i TTT rm-n r i t t t t t t 1 1 t 1 1 1 r t i i 1 1 1 1 1 1 r 1 1 1 t r r 1 1 r -rrrrnl ^—^ 5'^ \ \ 3 .V\6 PREFACE BOOK of this kind necessarily is a record of various opinions covering the ways of propagating plants. It is not a report of a discovery or discoveries, but a com- pilation of methods. Men have come to realize that every advancement in the art or science of doing things is for the benefit of not only themselves but for the good of all men. Each book considers the subject matter from a different angle. This book attempts to briefly explain the art and science of in- creasing plants so that the florist, orchardist nursen,^man, and amateur plant lover may have a guide for properly increasing his stock. "There is no reason why every farmer, if he so desires, may not propagate all the fruits necessary for his own garden and orchard," writes W. L. Howard. "Such work can be done at little or no expense and, besides, it is pleasant and interesting." The author acknowledges credit to all who, through their wide experience, have written of plant propagation, and especially to Thomas Meehan and George W. Oliver, both pre-eminent in their fields of nursery and greenhouse propagation. Credit is due Dr. L. H. Bailey for crystalhzing the scattered information pub- Hshed in the "Nursery Book" of 1891. The author welcomes suggestions and advice relating to the subject matter of this book to the end that when a new edition becomes necessary it may have increasing value. . Alfred G. Hottes. Golumbus, Ohio, December, 1917. FEB II 1918 ©CI.A481G81 WW, \ INTRODUCTORY REMARKS HE abiKty to grow and multiply is characteristic of all life. The object of the hfe of every plant is to perpetuate its kind. Flowers bloom with color and perfume in order that they may better produce their seeds. Plants spread their stems in the air and in the soil in order to dominate the earth as much as possible. -Darwin reaHzed this struggle for existence and concluded that every fragrance, color, spine, tuber and adaptation contributes toward the natural ability of the plant to hve. Nature eliminates the weak; overwhehning those which cannot stand the cold or heat, those susceptible to attacks of insect and fungus and those which can not compete with their neighbors in reproductive powers. Man shelters his favorites from the cold; improves their natural multiplication; supplies them with proper soil and the environment of their natural homes, places them on stronger roots and even crosses them to make combinations to his fancy. He produces the large fruits and the double flowers at the expense of seed produc- tion but he supplies another means of existence for the plant. Men have noted how through accidents the tops of plants become broken and root to form a new individual; how, when roots are cut, often a new plant grows from them; how clmnps of plants are broken up and each part produces a good plant; how trees rub against each other and are naturally grafted. Men have merely imitated Nature. A careful study of a plant will indicate its method of propagation. There are two considerations in the propagation of plants: the art, and the science. The art is the craft or ability to multiply plants; the science tells why each operation is done. One is the practice; the other the theory. Each helps the other. The gardener learns much from doing, but books lead him to see the reasons for his practice. CONTENTS Preface 4 Introductory Remarks 5 General Index 7-8 Index to Plant Names 9-15 Index to Illustrations 15-16 Chapter I — Seeds 17 Chapter II — Cuttings 47 Chapter III — Bulbs, Layers, Divisions 65 Chapter IV — Graftage 84 Chapter V — Fruit Stocks Ill Chapter VI — A Few Commercial Florists' Plants 119 Chapter VII — Herbaceous Perennials, Annuals ant) Bulbous Plants 139 Chapter VIII — Tree and Shrub List 142 Chapter IX — Book List 179 GENERAL INDEX Page Annuals, list of 140 sowing seeds 23, 24 Budding, H 99 June 100 patch or flute 100 shield 99 time 97 Bulbel 65 Bulblets, fern 71 Bulbs defined 65 CaUus 51 Cions 84 selection of wood 89 Conifers from seed 36 damping-off of 37 cuttings 58 Cormels 74 Corms -72 Cuttings, evergreen 58 Florists' list 53 hardwood 56 heel 58 leaf 60 mallet 58 perennial 54 potting 52 root 63 sand and water method for ... 52 simple 58 softwood 48 temperature for 51 Damping-off, conifers 37 of cuttings 51 Division, bulbs 65 ferns 123 perennials . *. 83 Double working 108 Evergreens, broad leaved, from seed 38 cuttings 58 damping-oflf of 37 from seed 36 Fern, Boston 124 bulblets 125 collecting spores 121 division 123 getting new varieties 123 life history 120 runners 124 soil 122 sowing 122 tip layers 125 top layers 125 tubers 125 Flats for seeds 24 Florists' Lists, cuttings 53 seeds 32 Frames 57 Page Germination of seeds 17, 27-29 special treatments for 29 Graft hybrids 87 Grafting, bridge 94 Cactus 109 cleft 91 crown 95 limits of 87 objects 85 results 85 root 91 saddle 94 side 93 splice 93 terminal bud 97 tongue 89 top 108 veneer 92 whip 89 Grafting wax 109 Inarching 102 Layers, air or pot 78 Chinese 78 continuous 78 mound 80 preparing stock for 78 serpentine or compound 77 simple 77 tip 77 top of ferns 125 Light and seeds 25 Longevity of seeds 19 Offsets _. 76 Onion, multiplier 71 potato 71 Pedigreed stocks. 113 Perennials, cuttings of 54 division of 83 list of 139 sorts propagated by seed. . .32, 33 sowing seed 31 Pots for seeds 24 Prothallus 120 Rhizomes 80 Runners 80 Seed, acid treatment 30 and light 25 aquatic 30 conifer 36 depth to sow 25 germination 17, 27-29 Grandmother's method of sow- ing 26 longevity 19-21 not breeding true 17 saving 41 scalding 36 shrub 34 7 8 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Page Seed, soaking 29 sowing 23, 26 testing 21 tree 34 watering 27 Seedling inarch 102 Shrubs, from seed 34 hardwood cuttings 56 Summer cuttings 56 Soil for seeds 24 Sori 120 Sporangia 120 Stocks, apple Ill, 113 apricots 113 characteristics of good 88 Cherry 113 fruit Ill Peach 113 Page Stocks, Pear 113 pedigreed 113 Plum 113 Rose 131 Suckers 76 Temperature for seed sowing. ... 17 Tree-seeds 34 Tuberous roots 74 Tubers, ferns 125 perennials 75 Vegetables, longevity of seed.. . . 21 pollinating 46 time to sow 23 Viability of seed 18 Wardian Case 52 Watering seeds 27 Wax, grafting 109 AUTHORS CITED Page Avery, F. P 29 Balfour, I. Bayley 59, 63 Bailey, L. H 85 Baltet, Charles 85, 97 Beadle, CD 137 Becker, William 110 Bois, D 88 Burpee, W. A., Co., seed sowing. 26 Conard & Jones Co., Germination Table 28, 29 Coville, F. V .172 Craig, W. N 26 Dreer, H. A., Inc 19-21 Fuller, A. S 88, 161 Galloway, B. T 138 Good, John M. 131 Hartley and Pierce 37 Page Hatfield, T. D 27 Hedrick, U. P 97, 113, 117 Jenkins, J 34, 152, 158 Lager, John E 126 Meehan, Joseph 37, 116, 154, 155, 159, 163, 166 Montgomery, Alexander 134 de Muelder, Fred 67 Mulford, F. L 137 Oliver, George W., 19, 31, 39, 62, 103, 136 Pierce and Hartley 37 Shore, Robert * 52 Thompson, Charles H 41 Trillow, William 57 Wood, Henry 95 INDEX OF PLANT NAMES Page Abelia 142 Abies 36, 142 Abutilon 142 cuttings 53 longevity of seed .... 20 Acacia cuttings 53 Acalypha cuttings 53 AcanthophcEnix 32 Acanthus 139 division 81 Acer 142 Achillea 139 division 83 longevity of seed 20 root cuttings . 64 Achimenes 141 ^leaf cuttings 61 A!conitum 139 Acorus 31, 139 Acroclinium 140 longevity of seed. ... 20 Actaea. 139 Actinidia 143 Adenocarpus 143 Adiantum 125 Adonis 139 brides 126 .^sculus 143 Agapanthus 141 Agathsea, cuttings 53 Agave 76 Ageratum 140 cuttings 53 longevity of seed .... 20 sowing 32 Aglaeonema 81 Agrostemma 139 longevity of seeds 20 Agrostis, longevity of seed 20 Ailanthus....34, 44, 76, 143 Ajuga 139 cuttings 54 Akebia 143 cuttings 53, 57 Albizzia 143 Alder 143 White 150 AUamanda cuttings; .... 53 Allium 141 Allspice, Wild 144 Chinese 149 Almond 164 Alnus 143 Alocasia 58, 81 Alonsoa 140 Aloysia cuttings 53 Alsophila 125 Alstrcsmeria 141 Alternanthera cuttings. . 53 Althaea 57, 139, 154 Alyssum 139 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 23 Amaranthus 140 longevity of seed 20 Amaryllis 141 Page Amelanchier 143 Amorpha 144 Amorphophallus 141 Ampelopsis 144 longevity of seed. ... 20 Amsonia 139 Amygdalus 164 Ananas 76 Anchusa 139 longevity of seed 20 root cuttings 64 Andromeda 38, 57, 144 Anemone, perennial. 64, 139 bulbous 141 longevity of seed .... 20 Angelica, longevity of seed 21 Anomatheca 141 Anthemis 139 Anthericum 76 Antholyza. 74, 141 Anthurium, rhizomes ... 82 suckers 76 Antirrhinum 140 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 time to sow for outside 32 time to sow for green- house 24 Apios 141 Aponogeton from seed. 31 Apple 166 crab Ill dwarf 113 stocks, collecting seed. Ill sowing Ill Apricot 113 Aquilegia 139 longevity of seed 20 Arabis 139 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 Aralia 144 Araucaria cuttings 53 Arborvitae 36, 59, 171 Arbutus 144 Arctotis 140 time to sow 24 Ardisia sowing 32 cuttings 53 Areca 32 Arenaria 139 Argemone 140 Arisaema 74, 141 Armeria 139 divisions 83 longevity of seed 20 Arnica 139 Artemisia 83, 139 Artichoke, Jerusalem ... 75 Arum.. 74, 82, 141 Arundo 139 Asclepias 54, 139 Ash 34, 35, 152 Mountain 169 Prickly 178 Asiniina 76, 144 Page Asparagus 32 Asperula 139 Asphodelus 139 Aspidistra 82 Asplenium 125 Aster 32,44, 139 Aster, China 140 longevity of seed .... 20 sowing 24 Astilbe 141, 169 Aubrietia 139 Aucuba 144 cuttings 53 Auricula 139 longevity of seed ..... 20 Azalea 38, 59, 144 Babiana . 141 Balloon Vine 20 Balsam 140 longevity of seed .... 20 time to sow 24 Banana 76 Baptisia. 139 longevity of seed 20 Barberry . . .34, 57, 145 Bartonia, sowing 24 Basswood 34, 171 Batchelor's Button 23 Bay, Loblolly 153 Sweet. 157 Bean, Indian 147 Beech 34, 152 Blue 147 Begonia Evansiana 66 hardy.. 66 longevity of seed 20 Lorraine group, cut- tings 53, 61 I? ex . . 60 semperflorens, sowing seed 33 tuberous 75, 141 Bellis 33, 139 longevity of seed 20 Benzoin 144 Berberis 34, 57, 145 Bessera 141 Betula 145 Bignonia 145 Billbergia 76 Birch 34, 145 Blackberry, root cut- tings 64, 146 seed treatment 30 Bladder Nut 169 Bladder Pod 156 Bloomeria 141 Blueberry (see Vaccin- iurn) Bocconia 139 longevity of seed 20 root cuttings 64 Boltonia 54, 76, 83, 139 Borago 139 Boston Ivy 34, 144 Bougainvillea cuttings. . 53 Boussingaultia 75, 141 9 10 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Page Bouvardia cuttings 53 root cuttings 64 Box Tree 146 Brachycome 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing 24 Bridal Wreath 169 Briza, longevity of seed. 20 Brodiaea 141 Broom, Scotch 151 Broussonetia 44 Browallia 140 longevity of seed 20 Bryophyllum, leaf cut- tings 62 Buckeye 143, 162 Mexican 172 Spanish 172 Buckthorn, Common. . . 167 gga^ _ J54 Buddleia'. '. '. '. V.'.'3'3",'53, 146 Buffalo Berry 169 Bulbocodium 141 Burning Bush 152 Butterfly Bush 146 Butternut 34, 155 Button Bush 148 Buttonwood 164 Buxus 83, 146 Cabomba from seed .... 31 Cacalia 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing 24 Cactus from seed 41 Cactus, grafting. 92, 93, 109 Caladium 141 fancy leaf 76 suckers 76 tuberous roots 75 Calanthe 126 Calathea 82 Calceolaria, longevity of seed 20 sowing 26, 33 Calendula 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing 24 Calla 82 Callicarpa 146 Calliopsis, longevity of seed 20 Callirhoe 139 Calluna 38, 59, 146 Calochortus 141 Calophaca 146 Caltha from seed 31 Calycanthus . . . .57, 64, 146 Camassia 141 Camellia 146 cuttings 53 Cami)apula 139 divisions 83 longevity of se'ed 20 Camphora 146 Campsis 146 Camptosorus 125 Canary Bird Vine, longevity of seed ... 20 Candytuft, longevity of seed 20 sowing 23 Page Canna 141 from seed 29 longevity of seed 20 rhizomes 82 Caragana 146 Carludovica 33 Carnation, cuttings ... .119 longevity of seeds ... 20 Carpinus 147 Carya 147 Caryopteris 139, 147 Cassia 139 longevity of seed 20 Castanea 147 Castanopsis 147 Castor Bean, sowing time 24, 33 Catalpa 34, 147 Catananche 139 Cattleya 126 Ceanothus 147 Cedar, Incense 157 Japan 150 Red 156 white 149 Cedrela 148 Cedrus 36, 148 Celosia. 140 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24 Celtis 148 Centaurea 139 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24, 33 Centranthus 139 Cephalanthus 148 Cerastium 139 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 Cerasus 164 Ceratostigma 139 cuttings 64 Cercidiphyllum 44, 149 Cercis 149 Cereus 92 Cerinthe 140 Chamsecyparis . .36, 60, 149 Chaste Tree 177 Chelone 139 Cherry, Japan 154 Mahaleb 114 mazzard 113 ornamental 164 Chestnut 34, 147 Chilopsis 149 Chimonanthus 149 China Tree 159 Chinese Parasol Tree . . .170 Chinquapin 147 Chionanthus 44 , 149 Chionodoxa 141 Chorizema, from cut- tings 53 scalding seed 36 Chrysanthemum 139 cuttings 120 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24 Cimicifuga 139 Page Cineraria, longevitv of seed 20 sowing 33 Cinnamomum (See Cam- phora) Cinquefoil, shrubbv .... 164 Cistus 149 Citrus 104. 149 Cladrastis 64, 149 Clarkia 140 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24 Clematis 139, 149 internode cuttings 48 longevity of seed 20 Cleome 140 longevity of seed 20 Clerodendron 149 Clethra 150 Clintonia 139, 141 Clivia 141 Clover, Bush 157 Cobaea, longevity of seed 20 Cocos 33 Codiseum cuttings 53 Coelogyne . 126 Coffee Tree, Ken- tucky 36, 153 Coix, longevity of seed . 20 Colchicum 74, 141 Coleus, cuttings 53 longevity of seed 20 Collinsia 140 time to sow 24 Colutea 150 Convallaria 83, 141 Convolvulus, longevity of seed 20 Cooperia 141 Corchorus 156 Coreopsis 139, 140 longevity of seed 20 Cork Tree 162 Cornus 57, 150 Coronilla 139 root cuttings 64 Cortaderia 139 Corydalis 139 Corylopsis 150 Corylus 150 Cosmos 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing 24 Cotoneaster 59, 150 Cotyledon 76 Cranberry, High Bush. . 177 Crataegus 150 Crinum 141 Crocosmia 141 Crocus. '. 74, 141 Croton, cuttings 52 layering 78 Crown Imperial 141 Cryptomeria . . . .36, 59, 150 Cucurnbers, pollinating . 46 sowing seeds 23 Cucumber Tree 35, 159 Cunninghamia 60, 150 Cupressus 59 Currant 150, 168 Indian 170 INDEX OF PLANT NAMES 11 Page Custard Apple 144 Cyathea 125 Cycas 44 Cyclamen, corms 74 longevity of seed 20 sowing 33 Cyclophorus 123 Cydonia 151 Cyperus, from seed. ... 31 longevity of seed. ... 20 Cypress 149 Bald.... .170 Cypress Vine, longevity of seed 20 Cypripedium 126 Cystopteris 125 Cytisus 59, 151 Dahlia 141 longevity of seed 20 propagation 75 twberous roots 75 Daisy, English 28 Michaelmas 83 Daphne 151 Datura 140 longevity of seed 20 Davallia 123 Davidia 151 Delphinium 24, 54, 139 longevity of seed 20 Dendrobium 126 Dentaria bulbifera 71 Desmodium gyrans 19 Deutzia 57, 151 Dewberry (see Blackberry) Dianthus 139 longevity of seed 20 sowing 23, 24 Diascia 140 Dicentra... 139 spectabilis root cut- ings 64 Dicksonia 123 Dictamnus 139 Dieffenbachia 58 Diervilla 151 Digitalis. 139 longevity of seed 20 Dimorphanthus 151 Dimorphotheca 140 longevity of seed. .... 20 sowing 23 Diospyros 151 Dirca 151 Dodecatheon 139 root cuttings 64 Dogwood 150 Dolichos, longevitv of seed 20 Doronicum 83, 139 Doryopteris 125 Draba 139 Dracaena, layering 78 longevity of seed 20 propagating 52, 58 sowing seed 33 Dracocephalum 139 Page Dracunculus 141 Dusty Miller, sowing seed 33 Easter Lily, bulb scales . 71 from seed 39 natural division 71 Echinacea 139 Echinocactus 110 Echinocereus 110 Echinocystis, longevity of seed 20 Echinops 139 longevity of seed 20 Eichhornia from seed. . . 31 El^pagnus 44, 151 Elderberry 169 Elm 172 Emilia 140 English Ivy cuttings 53 Epimedium 139 Epiphyllum 92 Eranthis 141 Eremurus 141 Erica 38, 53 Erigeron 139 Eryngium 139 longevity of seed 20 Erysimum 140 longevity of seed. ... 20 Erythronium 141 Eschscholtzia 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing time 24 Eucalyptus 152 Eucharis 141 Euonymus 34, 152 Eupatorium 139 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 Euphorbia, fulgens, cut- tings 53 longevity of seed 20 root cuttings 64 Exochorda 57, 152 Fagus 152 Fatsia 83 Ficus carica 152 Fig 152 Filbert 150 Fir 142 Chinese 150 Fittonia cuttings 53 Five Finger 164 Forsythia 57, 152 Fraxinus 152 Freesia 141 Fringe Tree 149 Fritillaria 141 Fuchsia cuttings 53 Funkia 83, 139, 141 Furze 172 Gaillardia 139 longevity of seed 20 root cuttings 64 sowing 24 Galanthus 141 Galega 139 Galium 139 Galtonia 141 Gardenia cuttings 53 Garrya 44 Page Gaura 139 longevity of seed 20 Geisshoriza 141 Gelsemium 152 Genista 151 cuttings 53 Gentiana 139 Geranium (see Pelargon- ium) Geranium, longevity of seed 20 Gerbera 44 Gesneria 141 leaf cuttings 62 sowing seed 26, 33 Geum 139 divisions 83 longevity of seed 20 Giant Tree of California. 169 Gilia 140 time to sow 24 Ginkgo 45, 152 Gladiolus 141 corms 73 cormels 74 Gleditsia 153 Globe Amaranth, longev- ity of seed 20 Globe Flower 156 Gloriosa 141 Gloxinia 141 leaf cuttings 62 longevity of seed 20 sowing 26, 33 Godetia 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing 24 Gold-dust Tree 144 Golden Bell 152 Gomphrena 140 longevity of seed 20 Gooseberry.. . .80, 153, 168 Gordonia 52, 153 Gorse 172 Gourd, longevity of seed. 20 time to sow 24 Grape 153, 177 Oregon 159 Grevillea, longevitv of seed ' 20 sowing 33 Gum, Blue 152 Sour 161 Sweet 157 Guzmania 76 Gymnogramma 125 Gynerium 139 longevity of seed 20 Gymnocladus 19, 153 Gypsophila 140 longevity of seed 20 root cuttings 64 time to sow 24 Haemodorum 140 Halesia 153 Halimodendron 153 Hamamelis 154 Hawthorn 34, 150 Indian 167 Hazelnut 1.50 Heather 146 12 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Page HeUera 53, 59 Helenium 140 futtings 54 longevity of seed 20 Helianthus 140 division 83 longevity of seed 20 rigidus, root cuttings . 64 Helichrysum 140 longevity of seed 20 Heliopsis. longevity of seed 20 Heliotrope, cuttings. ... 53 longevity of seed 20 Helipterum 140 Hellebonis. 140, 141 Hemerocallis 75 Hemlock 75, 172 Hemp Bush 177 Hepatica 140 Heracleum 140 Hesperis 54, 140 Heuchera 54, 140 Hibiscus 154 longevity of seed 20 Hickory 34, 147 Hippophae 45, 154 Holly 154 Hollyhock, cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 sowing 23, 33 See also Althaea Honeysuckle 158 Hop Hornbeam 161 Tree 166 Hordeum 140 Hornbeam 147 Horse Chestnut 143 Dwarf 162 Horse Sugar 170 Hovenia 154 Hoya, leaf cuttings 62 Huckleberry (see Vaccin- ium) Humulus, longevity of seed _. . 20 Hunnemannia, longevity of seed 20 Hyacinth, Holland method of notching and scooping bulbs. 66 Hydrangea 154 cuttings 53, 57 Hymenocallis 141 Hypericum 64, 154 Hyssopus 140 Iberis 140 longevity of seed 20 Idesia 45, 154 Ilex... 36,45, 154 Impatiens 20 Imantophyllum 141 Indian Bean 147 Indigo Plant 155 False 144 Indigofera 155 Inula 140 Ipomoea, cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 Iresine cuttings 54 Page Iris, bulbous 141 Calif ornian 141 longevity of seed 20 rhizomatous 141 Ironwood 161 Ismene 141 Itea 155 Ivy, Boston 34, 144 English 53 German 53 Ixia... 74, 141 Ixiolirion 141 Japan Gooseberry, 143 Cedar 150 Maple 143 Pagoda Tree 169. Varnish Tree 170 Jasmine 155 Carolina 152 cuttings 54 Jasminum 155 Jerusalem Cherry 33 June Berry 143 Judas Tree 149 Juglans 155 Juniper 36, 37, 59, 156 Kalmia 156 Kentia 33 Kentucky Coffee Tree, 36, 153 Kerria 57, 156 White 168 Kniphofia 141 Kochia, longevity of seed.. 20 Koelreuteria 156 Labrador Tea 157 Lachenalia 141 Lagerstrcemia 157 Lantana, cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 Lapeyrousia 141 Larch 157 Golden 165 Larix. 157 Larkspur, annual, longev- ity of seed 20 cuttings 54 time to sow 24 Lathyrus, longevity of seed 20 Laurel 157 Mountain 156 Laurus .157 Lavandula, longevity of seed _ 20 Lavatera, longevity of seed 20 Layia 140 Leather Wood 151 Ledum 157 Lemon (See Orange) Lentil Shrub 146 Leptosiphon, time to sow 24 Lespedeza 157 Leucojum 141 Leucothoe 157 Liatris 140 longevity of seed 20 Libocedrus 36, 60, 157 Page Ligustrum 57, 157 Lilac 57, 170 Summer 146 Lilyof the Valley. . .83, 141 Lily, bulb scales 71 Easter, from seed. ... 39 natural division 71 Limnanthemum from seed 31 Limnocharis from seed. 31 Linaria 140 longevity of seed 20 Linden 35, 171 Lindera 144, 157 Linum 140 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24 Liquidamber 157 Liriodendron 157 Lobelia 140 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 sowing 26 Loblolly Bay 153 Locust 34, 168 Honey 36, 153 Lonicera 57, 158 Loosestrife cuttings 54 Lotus. 54, 140 Ludwigia from seed. ... 31 Lunaria, longevity of seed 20 Lupinus. 140 longevity of seed 20 Lychnis 140 longevity of seed 20 Lycium 57, 158 Lycoris 141 Lygodium 123 Lysimachia 140 Lythrum 140 longevity of seed 20 Maackia 149 Madura 45, 158 Madia 140 Magnolia 35, 158 Mahonia 59, 159 Maidenhair Tree 152 Mandragora 140 Maple.. 34,35, 142. flowering 142 Maranta 83 Marica 76 Marigold, longevity of seed 20 time to sow 23 Marvel of Peru, longev- ity of seed 20 Masdevallia 126 Matricaria, longevity of seed _ 20 Matrimony vine 158 Matthiola 140 longevity of seeds .... 20 Maurandia, longevity of seed 20 Meadow Sweet 169 Medlar 159 INIelia 159 Ivlenispermum 140 INDEX OF PLANT NAMES 13 Page Mentha 140 Mentzelia 140 Mertensia 140 Mesembryanthemum, longevity of seed. . . 20 Mespilus 159 Metrosideros cuttings. . . 54 Mignonette 140 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24, 33 Milla 141 Mimosa, longevity of seed 20 Mimulus. 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing 26 Mina 28 Mistletoe (see Phoraden- dron) Momordica, longevity of seed 20 Moaarda 140 root cuttings 64 Monstera 83 Montbretia 74, 141 Moon Vine 54 Mor^a 74, 141 Morning Glory, time to sow 23 Morus 45, 159 Mulberry 159 French 146 Musa, longevity of seed. 20 Muscari 141 Myosotis 140 longevity of seed 20 sowing 33 Myrica 160 Mj-rtle, Crape 157 Wax 160 Nsegelia 141 Nandina 160 Narcissus 71, 141 Narthecium 141 Nasturtium 140 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 23 Nectarine 160 Nelumbium, division ... 83 from seed 31 Nemastylis 141 Nemesia 140 longevity of seed . 20 time to sow 24 Nemophila 140 time to sow 24 Nepenthes 52 Nephrolepis 125 Nerine 141 Nerium 161 cuttings 54 Nettle Tree 148 Neviusia 161 New Jersey Tea 147 Nicotiana 140 longevity of seed 20 Nierembergia, longevity _ of seed 20 time to sow 24 Page Nigella 140 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24 Ninebark 163 Niphobolus 123 Nolana, time to sow. ... 24 Nymphaea, division. ... 83 from seed 31 Nyssa 161 Oak 166 Odontoglossum 126 CEnothera 76, 83, 140 Olea 161 Oleander 161 Oleaster 151 Olive, Sweet 161 Wild 151 Orange 161 Orange, Hardy 149 Mock 163 Osage 158 Orchids, cuttings 126 division 126 seed 126 Ornithogalum 141 Orontium from seed ... 31 Osmanthus 161 Osmunda 121 Ostrya 161 Ouvirandra from seed . . 31 Oxalis 66, 141 Oxydendron 161 Pachysandra cuttings. . . 54 Paeonia 140 Moutan.. 161 root cuttings 64 Pagoda Tree, Japan 169 Paliurus 161 Pancratium 141 Pandanus 76 Pansy, longevity of seed 20 sowing 33 Papaver 140 longevity of seed 20 root cuttings 64 Parasol Tree, Chinese. . 170 Parrotia 161 Passiflora 162 Passion Flower 162 Paulownia 162 Pavia 162 Pawpaw 144 Peaches, budding. .100, 114 ornamental 164 stocks 114 Pearl Bush 152 Pears 166 dwarf 116 stock 116 Pea Tree, Siberian 146 Pelargonium cuttings. . . 54 Pennisetum 140 longevity of seed 20 Pentstemon 140 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 20 Peony (see Paeonia) Peperomia, leaf cuttings 62 Pepperidge 150 Pereskia 92 Persimmon 151 Page Petunia 140 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 23 Phacelia 140 Phalaris 140 Phellodendron. . .45, 64, 162 Philadelphus 163 Phlebodium 123 Phlomis 140 Phlox 140 Drummondii, longev- ity of seed 20 root cuttings 64 time to sow 24 Phoradendron 163 Photinia 163 Physianthus 163 Physocarpus 163 Physostegia 140 longevity of seed 20 Picea 36, 37, 163 Pickneya 163 Pieris -. 163 Pine 36, 163 Umbrella 169 Pineapple (see Ananas) Pinks, cuttings 54 Pinus 163 Plane Tree 164 Plantanus 164 Platycodon 140 longevity of seed 20 Plum, ornamental 164 stocks 117 Plumbago 64. 140 Podophyllum 140 Poinsettia 140 cuttings 128 Polemonium 140 Polygonatum 140, 141 Polygonum 140 rootcuttings 64 Polystichum 125 Pomegranate (see Punica) Pontederia from seed. . 31 Poplar 164 Poppy, longevity of seed 20 time to sow 23, 24 Populus 164 Portulaca 140 longevity of seed 20 time to sow 24 Potentilla. ..... 54, 140, 164 Pride of India 159 Primrose (see Primula) Primula 140 longevity of seed. . .20, 21 sowing 26, 33 Privet 34, 157 Prunus 164 Pseudolarix 36, 165 Pseudotsuga 36, 166 Ptelea 166 Pteris palmata 125 Pterocarya 166 Pterostyrax 166 Pueraria, longe\dty of seed 21 Punica 166 Puschkinia 141 Pyrus 166 14 GOxMAIERGIAL PLA.NT PROPAGATION Page Quercus 166 Quince 80,151. 167 Ranunculus, bulbous. . .141 perennial 140 Raphiolepis 167 Raspberry 167 seed treatment 30 tip layers 77 Red Bud 149 Retinispora 36, 59, 167 Rhamnus 167 Rheum 140 Rhodanthe 140 longevity of seed 21 Rhododendron 38, 167 Rhodotynos 34, 168 Rhus 168 Ribes 168 Richardia 141 Ricinus 140 longevity of seed 21 Robinia 57, 64, 168 Rock Rose 149 Romneya 140 root cuttings 64 Rose of Sharon 154 Roses from seed 129 budding 97, 131, 138 cuttings... .129, 130, 131 grafting 134, 135, 136 grafting case 134 layers 137 seedling inarch 106 stocks for graftage 132 Rubus 168 Rudbeckia 140 longevity of seed 21 Sagittaria from seed.. . . 31 St. John's Wort 154 Salisburia (see Ginkgo) Salix 168 Salpiglossis 140 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 24 Salvia. 140 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 24, 33 Sambucus 57, 169 Sanguinaria 140 Sanseveria, leaf cuttings 62 Santolina cuttings 54 Sanvitalia 140 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 24 Saponaria 140 longevity of seed 21 root cuttings 64 Sassafras 64, 76, 169 Saxifraga 140 Seabiosa 140 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 24 Schizanthus 140 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 24, 33 Sciadopitys 36, 169 Scilla 141 Sedum 54, 77, 83, 140 Senecio 140 Senna, Bladder 150 Page Sequoia 169 Shad Bush 143 Shepherdia 169 Sidalcea 140 Silene 140 Silphium 140 Silver-bell 153 Silver Leaf 153 Sisyrinchium 140 Skimmia 169 Smilacina 141 Smilax, longevity of seed 21 time to sow 33 Smoke Tree 168 Snapdragon (see Antir- rhinum) Snowball 177 Snowberry 170 Snowdrop Tree 153 Snow Wreath 161 Solanum, longevity of seed 21 time to sow 33 Solidago 21, 140 Sophora 169 Sorbus 169 Sorrel Tree 161 Sparaxis 74, 141 Sphaerogyne cuttings. . . 62 Spice Bush 144 Spindle Tree 152 Spiraea 141, 169 Blue 147 Sprekelia 141 Spruce 163 Douglas.... 166 Squashes, pollinating. .. 43 Stachys 140 Staphylea 169 Statice 140 longevity of seed 21 root cuttings 64 time to sow 24 Stephanandra 169 Sterculia. . ._ 170 Stevia, cuttings 54 longevity of seed 21 Stewartia 170 Stigmaphyllon 170 Stocks 21, 140 Stokesia. 140 longevity of seed 21 root cuttings 64 Storax 170 Strawberry 80 Strawberry Tree 144 Streptocarpus 62 Stuartia 170 Styrax 170 Sugar Berry 148 Sumac 168 Sunflower, cuttings of perennial 54 time to sow 24 Swainsona cuttings 54 Sweet Leaf 170 Sweet Peas 140 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 23, 33 treating seeds 30 Page Sweet Rocket, longev- ity of seed 21 Sweet shrub 146 Sweet Sultan, time to sow 24 Sweet William 29 Sycamore 164 Symphoricarpos. . . .57, 170 Symplocos 170 Syringa 57, 04, 170 Tagetes 140 longevity of seed 21 Tamarack 157 Tamarindus 170 Tamarisk 57, 170 Tamarix 57, 170 Tanacetum. 140 Taxodium 170 Taxus 36, 171 Tea, Labrador 157 New Jersey 147 Tecoma 146, 171 Thalictrum 83, 140 Thea _ 171 Thermopsis 140 root cuttings 64 Thorn Apple 150 Thorn, Christ's... . 161 Thunbergia, longevity of seed 21 Thujopsis . 171 Thuya 36, 59, 171 Tigridia 74, 141 Tilia 171 Tillandsia 76 Tococa cuttings 62 Tomatoes, time to sow.. 23 pollinating 46 Toothache Tree 178 Torenia 140 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 24 Torreya 172 Tradescantia 140 Tree of Heaven 143 Trillium 141 Triteleia 141 Tritoma 141 longevity of seed. ... 21 Tritonia 141 Trollius 140 Trumpet Flower 145 Creeper 146 Tsuga 172 Tuberose 66, 141 Tulip, Holland method. 71 Tulip Tree 35, 157 Tunica, longevity of seed 21 Tupelo 161 Tydaa 26 Typha from seed 31 Ulex 172 Ulmus 172 Ungnadia 172 Vaccinium 172 Valeriana 140 Vallota 141 Vanda 126 Varnish Tree 15(i Japan 170 INDEX OF PLANT NAMES 15 Page Verbascum 140 Verbena 140 cuttings 54 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 24, 33 Verbena, Lemon, cut- tings 54 Veronica 140 cuttings 54 divisions 83 longe\dty of seed 21 Viburnum 34, 57, 177 Victoria from seed 31 Vinca, longevity of seed 21 cuttings of V. major. . 54 time to sow V. rosea. 33 Viola... 140, 141 longevity of seed 21 time to sow 33 Violets, improving crop. 138 selection 138 Viyfinia Creeper 144 Page Virginia Stock, when to sow 24 Vitex 177 Vitis 177 Wahoo 152 Wallflower, longevity of seed 21 Walnut 34 English 155 Winged 166 Watsonia 74, 141 Weigela 57 ,151 Whitewood 157, 171 Willow 168 Desert 149 Shrub 155 Wistaria 177 Wistaria Tree 166 Witch Hazel 154 Wood, Bass 34, 171 Button 164 Iron 161 Page Leather 151 White 157, 171 Yellow 149 Woodbine 144 Xanthoceras 64, 177 Xanthorrhiza 178 Xeranthemum 140 longevity of seed 21 Xanthoxylum 178 Yellow Root, Shrubby. . 178 Yellow Wood 149 Yew 171 Stinking 172 Yucca 140, 178 Zantedeschia 141 Zanthorrhiza 178 Zanthoxylum 178 Zephyranthes 141 Zinnia 140 longevity of seed 21 when to sow 24 Zizania from seed 31 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS Page Almond, Double-flowering 165 Anthericum, Offsets of 75 Apples (Budded) 112 Artichoke (Jerusalem) Tuber of. 74 Asplenium 1 24 Begonia (Rex), leaf catting. ... 61 Birch, Cone of 145 Blueberry : New shoots on a stumped, 1 74 ; Tubered cutting, 175; Tubered cutting with sprouts rooting at base 176 Budded: Seedling tree, 100; Apples 112 Budding: Shield, 100: Sprig, 101; Patch, 102; Patch (of Mango), 103; H, 103; Cherries, 115; The Ginkgo 153 Buds, Cutting 99 Bulb Farm, A Holland. .Frontispiece Bulblets 70 Bulbs: Diagram of structure, 65; Easter Lily, 66; Hyacinth, 66, 67; First stage of notched, 67; A notched Hyacinth, 68; A scooped Hyacinth 69 Catalpa Bungei 148 Cattleva, Rhizome of 127 Page Cherries, Budding 115 Coldframe for sowing perennials 32 Corm: Gladiolus. 73; Gladiolus (from which tunic has been removed) 73 Cuttings: T'ondition of wood for, 47; Chrysanthemum, 48; Dahlia, 55; Hardwood, 56; Simple conifer, 58; Heel, 59; Mallet, 60; Rex Begonia leaf, 61; Rooted leaf, 61; Another method of making leaf, 62; Leaf (of Peperomia), 63; Root, 64; Two-eye Rose, 130; One- eye Rose 130 Cycas revoluta: Male flower of, 45; female flower of 45 Dahlia, Tuberous roots of 74 Daisy-like flower, A 43 Elm, Camperdown. . 173 Ferns 121, 122 Germination : Melon, 18; Of an EngHsh Walnut 156 Ginkgo, Budding the 1 53 Gladiolus corm 73 From which tunic has been re- moved "3 Gooseberry, Mound layer of ... . 80 16 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Page Grafting: Whip or tongue, 90; Whip (on roots), 90; Cions for cleft, 91; Cleft, 91; Veneer, 92; Side, 93; Splice (Pereskia Cactus), 94; Saddle, 94; Bridge, 95; Veneer crown, 95; Inlayed crown, 96; Crown (in war zone) , 97 ; Term- inal bud (Pine), 98; Cleft (Cacti), 110; Rose stock cut ready for, 135; Rose cion for. ,135 Hyacinth : Bulbs, 66, 67: First stage of notched bulb, 67; A notched bulb, 68; A scooped bulb 69 Inarch, Modification of 105 Inarching 104 Iris, German, Portion of Rhizome 81 Layering: Simple, 77; Tip (a Raspberry), 77; Air 78 Lily (Easter) : From seed, 40: Bulb, 66; seed- ling 72 Maple Key, A 142 Maranta 82 Melon Germination 18 Mound layer of Gooseberry. ... 80 Mulberry, Teas' Weeping 160 Offsets of Anthericum 75 Paulo wnia tomentosa. Seed vessels of 162 Primula Sieboldii 81 Propagating: Case, 49; House 50 Page Rhizome: Portion of German Iris, 81; Of Cattleya 127 Rose: SeedHng, 106, 107; Inarched seedlings, 108; Two-eye cut- ting, 130; One-eye cutting, 130; Standard, 133; Stock cut ready for grafting, 135; Cion for grafting 135 Rubus propagation 79 Runners, Strawberry 80 Screen for seed beds 34, 36 Seed: Testing, 22; Sown in flats, 25; Screen for beds, 34, 36; Cone of Birch, 145; Ball of Sweet Gum, 158; Vessels of Paul- ownia tomentosa 162 Seedlings: Pea, 18; In pot, 24; Easter Lily, 72; Rose, 106, 107; In- arched Rose 1 08 Squash blossoms 42 Strawberry runners 80 Sweet Gum, Seed Ball of 158 Tomato blossom 46 Tuber of Jerusalem Artichoke. . 74 Tuberous roots of Dahlia 74 Tulip propagation 70 Typical flower. Section of 42 Walnut (English), Germination of an 156 Yewberry, A 171 CHAPTER I SEEDS Plants not Breeding True from Seed — Germination — Longevity — Testing Seeds — Time to Sow — Annuals — Soil — Pots and Flats — Light — Suggestions for Sowing — Depth — ■ Sowing Fine Seed — Firming — Watering — Time Required for Germination — Special Treatment — Soaking — Canna — Acid Treatment — Aquatics — Perennials — Florists' Seeds — Shrub — Tree — Scalding — Coni- fers — Damping-off Fungus — Broad leaved Evergreens — Easter , Lilies — Cactus — Saving Seeds — Dioecious Plants — Pollinating Tomatoes — Cucumbers. PLANTS exist in order to produce their seeds; some die imme- diately after finishing this process. Seeds are entire plants in an embryonic stage and are so micrified that the oak tree is within the acorn. The labor of seed production by a plant is trying and, when seed is not wanted, it is better to release the flowers from producing their seeds by picking the blooms as they pass their maturity. Good looking seed is not always indicative of their ability to produce superior plants from that seed. Hidden within the sexual constitution of the seed is the secret of its real value. It is the superior ancestry of the plant rather than the individual value of a single seed which counts. Baldwin Apples may produce good seed but they do not produce good Baldwin Apples. Many of the poor relation parents show up when the seeds are sown. In the same manner seeds from the blue Lobelias will often produce progeny with varying hues of blue flowers. Such hybrid plants whose parentage is much compHcated and whose characteristics are not fixed must be propagated by other methods. THE GERMINATION OF SEEDS Whether a seed sprouts or not depends on four factors: water, air, heat and viabihty, or, the abihty to five. Each seed has its proper or optimum moisture, atmospheric and temperature re- quirements. For example, Mistletoe seed will germinate on the trunks of trees where the conditions are often very dry. For seed germination ordinary outdoor flowers require a temperature of from 50° to 70°, conservatory plants 60° to 80°, and tropical or stove plants from 75° to 95°. 17 18 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION The viability of a seed depends up- on a great number of factors. Seeds if immature when gathered are not so viable; they will germinate better immediate- ly after picking than when stored for some time. Pansy seeds ma- ture in such a way that only some of the seeds are perfectly ripe at one time. The best seed is hand- picked. Frequently seeds are affected with insects or diseases; this will retard germina- tion or make it impossible. The age of seeds is also important because every seed has a certain period of longevity. In some cases seeds must be sown immediately after ripening, else they do not start. Some seeds, such as those of Cucumbers, are better when two or three years old. Fig. 1. — Pea seedlings Fig. 2. — Melon germination. Note the knob on the root which catches the seed coat, holding it under the surface of the soil SEEDS 19 LONGEVITY OF SEEDS Regarding the longevity of seeds, H. A. Dreer, Inc., write: 'It has to be understood that in a favorable season and with perfect harvesting conditions, seeds of all sorts are Uable to be of much stronger germination than they would in an unfavorable season, particularly if the conditions at the time of harvesting are not just right. The longevity of many seeds is materially increased because they are now grown in this country, particularly in CaU- fornia, where the conditions for their best development are nearly ideal. The life of seeds is no doubt considerably influenced by the con- ditions under which they are kept over from one year to another. We believe that the proper conditions are a cool, airy place where the bags or receptacles in which the seeds are kept may be spread out, so that the air can circulate around them. This was tested out some years ago by the United States Department of Agriculture, and the result of their investigations seemed to show that seeds kept best under the same conditions that are preferred by most human beings. In other words a temperature of somewhere between sixty and seventy-five degrees is about right." Commenting on longevity of seeds, Geo. W. Oliver writes: "Instances are common where seeds of various plants have ger- minated many years after they were gathered. Seeds of several leguminous genera have been known to remain in good condition for a number of years. Among these are several which are well authenticated, notably Desmodium gyrans, which has been known to remain in good condi- tion for twenty-five years, and Gymnocladus canadensis, ^hichh^as, germinated after a long time in storage. Some of the tropical tree legumes have seeds which lose their vitality only after many years when kept dry and cool. Some seeds are pecuhar in that they sometimes develop only the cotyledons and the roots the first season. One or two species of Ipomoea have this pecuharity. A well known instance of this nature also occurs in one or more of the conomon Oaks. The seeds of the Coffee plant develop the cotyledons which sometimes remain in this condition for several months before true leaves are developed." Three Cassia seeds are known to have germinated when 85 years old. It is doubtful whether the wheat seed found several years ago in the pyramids of Egyt were as old as was claimed, and if so, it is hardly to be believed that they grew. 20 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION LONGEVITY OF FLOWER SEEDS IN YEARS (Derived mainly from data furnished by H. A. Dreer, Inc.) Abutilon 3-1 Achillea 3 Acroclmium 2-3 Ageratum 2-3 Agrostemma 3-4 Agrostis nebulosa.2-3 Alyssum 2-3 Amaranthus 3-4 Ampelopsis 1 Anchusa 2 Anemone 2 Antirrhinum 3-4 Aqiiilegia 2 Arabis 2-3 Armeria 2 Asters, China. . . .2-3 perennial 1-2 Auricula 2 Balloon Vine 3-4 Balsam 6-8 Baptisia 3-4 Begonia 2 BeUis 2-3 Bocconia 1 Brachycome 3 Briza maxima. . . . 2-3 Browalha 2-3 Cacaha 2 Calceolaria 2-3 Calendula 3-4 CaUiopsis 2-3 Campanula 2-3 Canary Bird Vine. 3-4 Candytuft 2-3 Canna 3-4 Carnation 3-4 Cassia 2-3 Celosia 4-5 Centaurea 2 Cerastimn 2 Chrysanthemum.. 3-4 Cineraria 3-4 Clarkia 2-3 Clematis panicu- lata 1 Cleome 2-3 Cobaea 1-2 Coix 2-3 Coleus 2 Convolvulus 3-4 Coreopsis 2 Cosmos 2-3 Cyclamen 2 Cypress Vine 3-4 Cvperus 1 Dahlia 2 Datura 3-4 Delphinium 2 Dianthus 3-4 Digitahs 2 Dimorphotheca . . 2 Dolichos 3-4 Dracaena 1 Echinocystis 4-5 Echinops 2 Er\Tigium 2-3 Erysimum 3-4 Eschscholtzia. ... 2 Eupatoriuni 2 Euphorbia 3-4 Ferns 3-4 Gaillardia 2 Gaura 2-3 Geranium 3 Geum 2 Globe Amaranth . 2-3 Gloxinia 2-3 Godetia 2-3 Gomphrena 2-3 Gourds 5-6 GreviUea 1 Gynerium 2-3 Gypsophila 2 Helenium 3-4 Hehanthus 2-4 HeUchrysum 2-3 HeHopsis 2-3 Hehotrope 1 Hibiscus 3-4 Hollyhock 4-5 Humulus 1 Hunnemannia. ... 2 Iberis 2-3 Impatiens 5-6 Ipomoea 3-4 Iris 2 Kochia 2 Lantana 1 Larkspur — Annual 3-4 Lathyrus latifolius 3-4 Lavandula 2 Lavatera 3-4 Liatris 2 Linaria cymbalaria 2 Linum 5-6 Lobelia cardinalis.2-3 Lobeha erinus . . .3-4 Lunaria 3-4 Lupinus 3-4 Lychnis 2-3 Lythrum 2 Marigold 3-4 Marvel of Peru . . 2-3 Matricaria 2 Matthiola 3-4 Maurandia 2 Mesembryanthe- mum 3-4 Mignonette 2-4 Mimosa 2-3 Mimulus 3-4 Momordica 4-5 Musa 34-M Myosotis 2 Nasturtium 3-4 Nemesia 2 Nicotiana 3-4 Nierembergia . ... 3 Nigella 2 Pansy 2-3 Papaver bractea- tum 3-4 Pennisetum 2-3 Pentstemon 2 Petunia 3-4 Phlox Drummondii 1-2 Physostegia 2 Platycodon 2-3 Poppy 3-4 Portulaca 3-4 Primula chinensis. 2 elatior 2 Forbesii 2 japonica 3^ kewensis 2 malacoides .... 2 obconica 1 SEEDS 21 LONGEVITY OF FLOWER SEEDS IN YEARS — Continued Primula polyanthus 2 vulgaris 2 Pueraria 3-4 Rhodanthe 2-3 Ricinus 3 Rudbeckia 2 Salpiglossis 4-5 Salvia 2 Sanvitalia 2 Saponaria 2 Scabiosa 2-3 Schizanthus 2-3 Sruilax 2-3 Solanuni 4-5 Solidago 2 Statice 1-2 Stevia 2-3 Stocks 4-5 Stokesia 2 Sweet Peas 3-4 Sweet Rocket. . . . 3-4 Tagetes 3-4 Thunbergia 2 Torenia 2-3 Tritoma 1 Tunica 2-3 Verbena 2-3 Veronica 2-3 Vinca 1-2 Viola 1-2 Wallflower 5-6 Xeranthemum ... 2 Zinnia 3-4 LONGEVITY OF VEGETABLE SEEDS (Revised from Yilmorin) Angelica 2-3 Barley 3 Beans 3-8 Beets — garden . 6-10 sugar 6 Broccoli 5-10 Buckwheat 2 Cabbage 5-10 Carrot 4-5 Cauliflower 5-10 Celery 8 Clover, red 3 Corn 2 Cucumber 10 Egg-Plant 6 Endive 10 Flax 2 Grass, jVIillet 2 Orchard 2 Timothy 2 Kohl-Rabi 5-8 Leek 3-9 Lettuce 5-9 Maize 2-4 Mustard 4-9 Oats 3 Okra 5 Onion 2-7 Parsley 3-9 Parsnip 2-4 Pea 3-8 Pepper 4-7 Pumpkin 5-9 Radish 5-10 Rape 5 Rhubarb 3-8 Rosemary 4 Rye 2 Sage 3-7 Salsify 2-8 Sea Kale 1-7 Soy Bean 2 Spinach 5-7 Squash 6-10 Strawberry 3-6 Tomato 4-7 Turnip 5-10 Thyme 3-7 Watermelon . . . .6-10 Wheat 2 Wormwood 4-6 TESTING SEEDS A federal law now^ in force prohibits the importation of adul- terated seeds of most of our grasses, besides Alfalfa, Clover and many cereals. W^eed seeds as w^ell as seeds of lower commercial value are considered adulterations. The United States Depart- ment of Agriculture is doing much to enforce disseminating good seeds and will test any doubtful samples that may be sent to them. Each grower may test for impurity and adulterations by using a small hand-lens. 22 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Much labor and space are frequently wasted by misjudging the value of seeds. The best test takes into consideration not only the percentage of germination but the growth during a whole season as well as the amount of impurity. For the germination test, a soup plate may be conveniently used (see fig. 3). Circles of canton flannel or blotting paper are cut to fit the plate. By dividing the cloth into four divisions, four varieties of seed may be tested at one time. Either ten or twenty- five of the seeds to be tested are counted and placed upon the cloth which is moistened. The dish is then covered with another plate to prevent drying. Day by day the number of seeds in each division that germinate should be counted. If 50 per cent germinate the seeds must be sown twice as thickly. Before using the cloth for a second test it should be boiled to kill molds which will interfere with the results. Large seed testers may be purchased, which have space for many kinds of seeds, with which the temperature and moisture can be perfectly regulated. Most reliable seedsmen conduct thorough tests of their seeds; not only germination tests but tests of varieties growing them on test gardens located in various latitudes. Many firms print a state- ment of the percentage of germination upon each seed package. C D Fig. 3. — Seed testing. A, A soup plate. B, The piece of canton flannel. C, Canton flannel in plate with seeds in each division. D, The plate covered by another onel SEEDS 23 TIME TO SOW SEEDS It is highly important that seeds be sown in season so that the plants may mature at the proper date for their use or sale. ANNUALS Annuals are plants which make their entire growth in one season, usually producing their bloom and seed before the frost. In the hst following are certain annuals which will stand much cold and may be sown in the open soil as soon as it can be worked ; those marked with an asterisk (*) are best sown in flats under glass in late March and later transplanted and sold in small boxes or pots. Plants marked with a dagger (f) are not easily transplanted; they are sown where they should bloom. Plants marked (z) are sown also in June for a later or second crop. The earlier sown annuals are: Beet Cabbage *z Carrot Cauliflower *z Celery z Vegetables Kale Kohl-Rabi Leek Lettuce Onions Parsley* Parsnip Peat Radisht Salsify Spinach; also in Autumn Swiss Chard Turnip Alyssum* Bachelor's But- ton Candytuft* Flowers Dianthus* Dimorphotheca Hollyhock Marigold* Morning Glory f Sweet Peas, may Nasturtium* be sown near Petunia* Easter; being Poppy t early, t Certain other flower seeds may be sown at this time but it is best to start them in the coldframe or greenhouse because the growth is slow in the cold soil. The following annuals are not sown in the open ground until dan- ger of frost is passed. The plants marked with an asterisk (*) and intended for sale, benefit by being sown in flats under glass in March. Plants marked with a dagger (f) are not easily transplanted. Beans, Bush, Lima and pole sorts t Vegetables Cornf Melon t Okra Cucumber t New Zealand Pepper* Egg-Plant* Spinach Pumpkin f Tomato* 24 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION ANNUALS — Concluded Flowers Antirrhinum* Arctotis Balsam Bartoniat Brachycome* Cacalia Calendula* Castor Bean* Celosia Centaurea* China Aster* Chrysanthemum Clarkia CoUinsia Cosmos* Dianthus* Eschscholtzia f Gaillardia Giha Godetia* Gourds t Gypsophila Larkspur* Leptosiphon Linum Mexican Poppyt Mignonette t Nemesia Nemophila Nierembergia NigeUa Nolana Phlox* Portulaca Salpiglossis* Salvia Sanvitalia* Scabiosa Schizanthus* Statice Sunflower Sweet Sultan Torenia* Verbena* Virginia Stock Zinnia* SOIL FOR SEED SOWING Soil for sowing seed must always be finely pulverized and in the best physical condition. A sandy loam suits most seeds the best. Soils which are too heavy should be hghtened by the addition of sand or even coal ashes. It always pays to use the best soil for starting the seedhngs and if this is not available, where the plants are to grow permanently, the seed may be sown in a good place and trans- planted later. Seed beds, if in the proper physical condition, need no manure. The young seedhngs are not able to take up much food. In fact, much humus or organic matter may be actually detrimental to the seeds, even hastening disease. POTS AND FLATS FOR SOWING SEEDS When a limited quantity of plants are wanted, flower pots (see fig. 4) may be used for seed sowing. Broken pottery and ashes should fill the pot half full. The remainder should consist of finely-sifted soil. Where it is desired to sow a larger quantity of seeds, wooden flats (see fig. 5) will be found more useful. Do not make them much over twelve by eighteen inches, and three to four inches deep. Larger flats are cumbersome and when used for more than one kind of seed, are hardly ever as serviceable because of the uneven germination. The flats should also be_ lined with some sort of roughage for good drainage. Fig. 4. -Seedlings in pot covered by pane of glass SEEDS 25 The soil must be perfectly level and slightly compacted. Make the rows from one inch to two inches apart, according to the seed, and sow the seeds usually from one-quarter inch to an inch apart, according to the variety. Seeds which are sown too thickly are sure to cause spindhng plants which are difficult to transplant. Only sow seeds requiring like conditions for germination in the same flats. For example: Sweet Alyssum sown in the same flat with Cockscomb is unsuccessful; the Alyssum will be ready for trans- planting before the Cockscomb is above the soil. Fig. 5. — Seeds sown in flats (See page 24) LIGHT AND SEEDS Most seeds do not prefer light while germinating. In fact. Larkspur, Adonis and Poppies are somewhat deterred in germina- tion by bright conditions. It is usually customary, therefore, to afford some shade to seed beds or pots. Out of doors such shade is supplied by lath screens; indoors, newspapers placed over the pots and seed boxes will be serviceable. SUGGESTIONS FOR SEED SOWING Plant in rows. It would seem best to sow most seeds in rows or drills rather than broadcast. (See fig. 5.) By this method they are easily cultivated for the removal of weeds, at the same time transplanting can be more simply done. DEPTHS OF SEED PLANTING Deep planting is a common blunder and a great cause of failure. The supply of oxygen is cut ofl" from the seeds and if the seedlings- are small, difficulties are encountered in trying to push up the heavy clod above. ^2(5 COMMERCIA.L PLANT PROPAGATION The majority of larger seeds should be covered about two or three times their diameter, but in the case of outdoor sown seeds much depends upon the time of the year they are sown. FIRM THE SOIL In order to bring the moist soil into contact with the seeds, the soil should be firmed over the rows by slight pressure of the hands or with a hoe. In sowing seeds out of doors late in Summer, this is especially necessary because the soil to some extent, has lost its moisture. SOWING VERY FINE SEEDS An excellent method of getting the best results from very small seeds is to use a mixture of leaf mold and loam and cover with a thin layer of sifted sphagnum moss. The seeds are sown on the sphag- num and are not covered with soil. A pane of glass is placed over the pot. By this method plenty of moisture is available for good germination, but later the watering must be diminished. Such seeds as those of Petunias, Salpiglossis, Ornamental Tobacco, Begonias, Thyme, Gloxinia, Gesneria, Tydaea, LobeHa, Mimulus and Calceolaria, may be sown in this manner. The water should be supplied from below by placing the pot in a pail of water. When the sphagnum moss is not used, W. N. Craig* suggests cutting a piece of tissue paper and laying it over the surface of the soil and watering over this. The paper keeps the seeds from washing to the side of the pot and prevents the soil from drying out. The paper decays readily and allows the seedhngs to push through it. For young seedlings to become dry for a few hours in the hot sun would be fatal and if too much moisture is available there is danger of decay. "There is an old-fashioned method f of seed sowing specially applicable for seeds which are slow in germinating, such as Primulas and Streptocarpus, though it is also an ideal plan for all fine seeds, including Begonias, and as the writer first saw it in operation many years ago in an old lady's window, he designates it Grandmother's Method of Seed Sowing. It is simplicity itself, while results are almost certain. One and one-half inches of fine soil is placed on top of an ordinary building brick, pressing the soil fairly firm. Sow the seed thinly, and very fine seed must only be slightly pressed into the soil, or covered * Craig, W. N. Seed Sowing Suggestions. From Trans, of Mass. Hort. Society, Part I, 1917, p. 20 t Suggestions for Seed Sowing, published by W. Atlee Burpee & Co. SEEDS 27 not more than one-sixteenth of an inch. The brick is then placed in a large plate, or flat, containing one inch or so of water, which will keep the brick and soil continually moist, thus ehminating the danger of washing out the seed or of the soil becoming dust dry, as so often happens when using pots or boxes. It is well, however, to guard against overwatering; therefore, if the soil at times appears to be too wet, remove the brick from the water for a few hours until it partly dries out." WATERING Great care should be exercised in watering, not only because the seed may be washed out of the drills, but excess water may cause the spread of the damping-off fungus. This disease is especially bsnd when the seedhngs lack air. Small dribblings applied fre- quently, rather than proper appUcations of water at needed intervals, cause the formation of a crust which will interfere with the ease of germination; later it will cause an unbalanced and shallow root system. TIME REQUIRED FOR GERMINATION Seeds vary greatly in the number of days required for germina- tion. Many gardeners make a grave blunder by discarding a seed bed before an opportunity has been given the seed to come up under normal conditions. As new seeds will often germinate more rapidly than older ones, when old and new seeds are mixed the seed- lings may continue to germinate for weeks. Many of the first seedlings of florists' flowers are the strongest and the poorest in floral quality. The gardener is careful to save the later and more puny seedlings, for they are often the doubles and the finer or newer colors. This is especially true of Petunias and Primroses. T.D. Hatfieldf writes: "Among Rhododendrons the first in a batch to bloom are always the strongest growers and the poorest in flower." Refer to the following table for the number of days required for germination of flower seeds: Number of Days Required For Germination. Days Days Days Abutilon 20 Ageratum 5 Aquilegia 15 Acroclinium 15 Alyssum 5 Arctotis grandis ... 20 African Golden Ampelopsis 15 Asparagus 30 Daisy 15 Anchusa 20 Asters 8 Agapanthus 20 Anemone, St. Brigidlo Asters, Perennial . . 15 Agathaea coelestis. . .20 Antirrhinum 20 Baby's Breath 20 t Hatfield, T. D. Methods Used in Propagation of Plants. From Trans, of Mass. Hort. Soc, 1916, p. 100. 28 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION NUMBER OF DAYS REQUIRED FOR GERMINATION — Continued Days Ball of Fire 16 Bachelor's Button . . *5 Balloon Vine 25 Balsams 10 Begonias 15 Bellis perennis 5 Boston Ivy 15 Blanket Flower 20 Blue-eyed Daisy. ... 20 Blue Day Flower. . . 20 Blue Salvia *15 Brachycome 8 Brazilian Morning Glory 8 Browallia. 20 Brugmansia arboreal 5 BushEschscholtzia. 8 Butterfly Pea 15 Cactus 30 Calendula 10 California Poppy ... 8 Campanula 8 Canary-bird Flower. * Candytuft 5 Cannas *15 Canterbury Bells. .*15 Cardinal Climber. . . 5 Carnations 8 Carnations, Per- ennial 8 Castor Beans 15 Celosia 20 Centaurea *5 Centrosema 15 Chinese Bellflower. .30 Christmas Orchid Flower 20 Chrysanthemums. . . 5 Cigar Plant *8 Cineraria 5 Clematis, Tuber- ous *30 Cleome pungens. ... 20 Cobaea scandens. ... 15 Cockscomb 20 Coix lachryma * Coleus 20 Columbine 15 Commelina 10 Coreopsis 20 Cornflower Aster ... * Cosmos 5 Crimson Flax 8 Cuphea *8 Cyclamen 25 Days Cyperus alterni- folius 25 Cypress Vine 5 Dahlias 5 Daisies 20 Daturas 15 Delphinium 15 Dianthus 5 Digitalis 20 Dimorphotheca 15 Dolichos 15 Dusty Miller *5 Echinocystis *30 English Double Daisy 5 Eschscholtzia 5 Euphorbia 20 Evening Primrose . . 5 Everlasting Flowers. * Feverfew 20 Fire-Cracker Plant.. *8 Fire-on-the-Moun- tain 20 Forgetmenot 15 Four O'clock 5 Foxglove 20 Fuchsia *30 Gaillardia 20 Geraniums 20 Gloxinia 15 Godetia 15 Gourds 15 Grass Seed * Gypsophila 20 Helianthus 15 Helichrysum 5 Heliotrope 15 Heuchera sanguinea20 Hibiscus *15 Hollyhocks 5 Hop, Japanese 15 Horn of Plenty 15 Humble Plant 8 Hunnemannia 8 Hyacinth Bean, Japanese 15 Ice Plant *5 Impatiens Sultani. . 15 Ipomceas 5 Iris *50 Ivies * Jack-and-the-Bean- stalk 15 Japanese Bean 15 Japanese Hop 15 Days Japan Iris *50 Jerusalem Cherry . *20 Job's Tears * Kenilworth Ivy. ... 5 Kochia scoparia. ... 15 Kudzu Vine 15 Lantana 15 Larkspur 15 Lathyrus 25 Lavender 20' Lemon Verbena. ... 8 Linaria 5 Linum 8 Lobelias 8 Love-in-a-Mist 8 Lychnis 2(> Mallow Marvels.. *15 Marigold 5 Marvel of Peru. ... 5 Maurandia *25 Mexican Fire Plant . 20 Mesembryanthe- mum *5 Mignonette 5 Mimosa 8 Mimulus 8 Mina lobata 5 Mirabilis 5 Monkey Flower .... 20 Moonvines 20 Morning Glory 5 Mountain Honey- suckle 20 Mourning Bride. ... 20 Musk Plant 20 Nasturtium, Dwarf Tall 8 Nicotiana 20 Nigella 8 CEnothera 5 Ornamental Grasses * Ostrich-Plume 20 Oxalis 20 Palm 15 Painted Tongue .... 5 Pansies 8 Passion Flower 50 Peas", Sweet 15 Pelargoniums 20 Pentstemon 20 Perennial Peas 25 Petunias 20 Pheasant-Eye Pink . 5 Phlox 20 Pinks 5 * Indicates an indefinite number of days. SEEDS 29 NUMBER OF DAYS REQUIRED FOR GERMINATION — Concluded Days Platycodon *30 Poppies 20 Portulaca 20 Primroses *15 Primulas *15 Pueraria Thiiu- bergiana 15 Ragged Robin 20 Ricinus 15 Rose * Rose, Moss 20 Salpiglossis 5 Salvia *15 Scabiosa 20 Sc^let Runner 8 Scarlet Sage *lo Days Schizanthus 20 Sensitive Plant 20 Shasta Daisj- 20 Smilax 15 Snapdragon 20 Solanum *20 Spider Plant 20 Stocks 5 Stokesia * Straw Flower 5 Summer Bush Cy- press 15 Sunflower 15 Sun Plant 20 Swan River Daisy . . 8 Sweet Peas 15 Days Sweet Sultan *5 Sweet Wilham 10 Ten- Weeks Stocks. . 5 Umbrella Plant 25 Verbena 8 Vinca * Violas * Violets * Wallflower 5 Water Lilies * Wedding Bells 15 Wild Cucumber Vine *30 Youth and Old Age . 5 Yucca * Zinnias 5 From the Catalog of Conard & Jones Co., West Grove, Pa. * Indicates an indefinite number of days. SPECIAL TREATMENTS FOR GERMINATION Certain seeds germinate very slowly when left to the ordinary methods of treatment. For example, in sowing seeds of Parsley and Celery the rows should be covered with burlap which will con- serve the moisture and hasten germination. SOAKING SEEDS Garden seeds, especially Beans, Peas, Beets, Squash, Cucumbers, Celery, Parsley, and Parsnips, are soaked in water. Such soaking should only be continued until the seed coats are softened; further soaking injures the seeds, causing them to decay when sown in the moist soil. Proper soaking hastens germination and is beneficial, but it is better not to soak them at all than to allow them to remain in water too long. CANNA SEED Canna seed is as hard as shot. F. P. Avery describes an ex- perience with starting seed. He says: "March 22d I received some seed. I have access to an emery wheel, and I ground down to the white meat on every seed. That same evening I poured hot water on them, and kept them in hot water until the evening of March 27th, giving the seeds a five days' bath. I found four seeds showing 30 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION a white germ the size of a pin-head. I put the lot in a big dish of sand, covering them about an inch. The dish stood in a hot place over a stove, where the seeds luxuriated in bottom heat and had hot sunshine. Fifteen days after I put the seeds to soak there were more than two hundred plants, averaging two inches in height." Instead of using an emery wheel, the seeds are frequently nicked with a file. ACID AND ALKALI TREATMENTS The bony covered seeds are frequently treated with weak acids which serve to soften the seed coat. If Raspberry or Blackberry seeds are soaked in vinegar their germination will be hastened. Sweet Peas are treated with sulphuric acid, commercial strength, for half an hour, then thoroughly washed. Old seeds or those with a very hard coat will frequently germinate after this treatment when they would not otherwise. In the Agricultural News of Bar- badoes. West Indies, we read: "If seeds are treated with chlorine water (two drops of chlorine to GO c.c. of water) and then stood in the sun, they will germinate completely in six hours. The seeds must be removed from the chlorine water, and washed, however, directly the radicle appears. Chlorine has a decomposing effect on water in the presence of hght, breaking it up into hydrogen and oxygen, and the rapid germination is due to the action of the nascent oxygen liberated by the chlorine. Hard seeds need a prehminary soaking in water before steeping them in chlorine solution. Alka- line substances, e. g., ammonia, soda, etc., in highly dilute solution, also aid the process of germination. Another curious method consists in watering the seeds with a solution of formic acid (1 in 5000) at a temperature of 25° to 30° G. This treatment dissolves the integument, and plants which normally require eight or ten days will germinate in as many hours. In some experiments carried out last year in France, and de- scribed in Le Jardin, seeds of Radishes and other Cruciferae were made to germinate in less than eight minutes by plunging them in hot water, and then laying them between rags soaked in boihng water in a small flower pot nearly filled with moist earth, and kept at a warm temperature." AQUATICS FROM SEED Certain seeds of aquatic plants when not kept in water must be artificially treated by acid or nicking. Sow each seed in a separate thumb pot, submerging the pots in tanks of warm water. Many SEEDS 31 of the sorts, if started in early Spring, flower the first year. Seeds of the following water plants should be treated as suggested: Acorus (Sweet Flag), Aponogeton (includes Ouvirandra, the Lace Leaf), Cabomba (Prince's Feather), Caltha (Marsh Marigold), Cyperus (Sedges and Umbrella Palm Grass), Eichhornia (Water Hyacinth), Limnanthemum (Floating Heart), Limnocharis (Water Poppy), Ludwigia, Nelumbium (Egyptian Lotus), Nymphaea (Pond Lily), Orontium (Golden Club), Pontederia (Pickerel Weed), Sagit- taria (Arrowhead), Typha (Cattail) and Zizania (Water Oats). Many of these seeds may be sown in larger pots as other per- ennials but they should be submerged. Geo. W. OKver writes: "Seeds of the Gigantic Water Lily, Victoria regia, should be sown in February in the warmest house. The-water must be clean and free from the lower forms of aquatic growth. The seeds should be sown in thumb pots, one to a pot. The first leaves of the seedhng Victoria are grass-like, then halberd- shaped, but eventually assume the peltate form. In Washington when properly grown the leaves of the seedhng should be 12 inches in diameter by the 10th of May. Many attempts to grow this, the queen of Water Lifies, are frus- trated because the young plants are taken from a warm temperature and placed in water out of doors, the temperature of which is much below that of the hothouse. To grow the Victoria successfully the receptacle for the plant should be large enough to hold at least several cartloads of rich soil and hold a good sized frame and sash on top of the soil. The water in the frame by this device will be kept warm and the young plants will develop rapidly by this treat- ment. When the plant has made a start the frame and sash are removed. Subsequent attempts to grow this queen of aquatics without the protecting frame always resulted in poorly developed plants. When a good flower of the Victoria opens about Midsummer or later save some of the pollen from it and dust it over the stigmas of the succeeding flowers. This will result in the ripening of many seeds. The size of this plant, the first one grown in Washington, was much larger than any other plant grown out of doors in this country, the diameter being 6 ft. 6 inches. During the following Summer the frame was discarded and the result was a much smaller Victoria." SOWING SEEDS OF PERENNIAL FLOWERS For sowing the seeds of perennial flowers, coldframes are used. The seeds are sown in rows about six inches apart. After sowing, the frames should be watered and the soil mulched with cut grass or a 32 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION layer of finely sifted, well decayed, manure. This mulch will serve to keep the soil from drying out, thus preventing the formation of a crust over the seeds. If the manure is used it will supply the seedlings with food. Many perennials bloom the fost year from seed; these may be sown in early Spring (see list p. 139). The other sorts, of which plants are wanted for the succeeding year but which are not expected to bloom during the current season, are sown in July or August. The late sown perennials will be just germinating during the hot, dry season; moisture must be supplied and some kind of screen (see figs. 7 and 8) used to shade the bed, especially, when the seed- lings are very small. The seedlings when transplanted may be placed in 2 inch or inch pots or they may be planted in frames (see fig. 6). If the rows are planted 5 inches apart ample room for their growth is available by removing, from alternate rows, the plants for Fall or early Spring sale. Some of the perennials remaining in the frames may be left to bloom as the rows will then be 10 inches apart. ^^3^2 Fig. 6. — Coldframe for sowing perennials. The first and second sections are provided with sashes, the third has a lath screen for shade and the fourth is covered with a straw mat for Winter protection florists' seed time table Acanthophoenix. Many remain two years before germination. 70°. Ageratum. February. In flats. Annuals, half hardy for bedding. March. Sown in flats or pots. Hardy. April, or later out of doors. Antirrhinum. February and March for outdoor plants; April for Winter bloom. Ardisia. Early Spring. Areca lutescens. January or when seed can be procured. 75° to 80". Asparagus. February or any time. Sow in flats. Asters. March or April. Coldframe. SEEDS 33 florists' seed time table — Continuedj^ Begonia semperflorens. January and Febru£iry in flats or pots; use leaf mold in the soil. Bellis. August. In coldframe. Give shade until seedlings are well up. Buddleia. February cuttings are preferred. Calceolaria. January and February or June. (See p. 26.) Carludovica. Same as Kentia. Castor Bean. April and May. Sow each seed in separate pot. Centaurea. January and February. Use flats and light soil. Cineraria, First sowing, May. Second sowing, August 15. Last sowing, September 15. (See p. 26.) Cocos Weddelliana. January. In flats. Cyclamen. July to January. Use leaf mold and light soil. Flats. Dr£(^aena indivisa. February. Sandy soil. 65°. Dusty Miller. January to March. Light soil. English Daisy. (See BeUis.) Gesneria. January. (See p. 26.) Gloxinia. January to February. In flats. (See p. 26.) GreviUea. December to March. In flats. HoUyhock. July. Flats. Jerusalem Cherry. January to March. In flats. Kentia. July. In greenhouse. 75° to 80°. Mignonette. March to April, in pots in greenhouse; April to May, in field; August, for Winter forcing. Myosotis. August 15. In coldframe. Pansy. iVugust 1-10. In coldframe. Perennials. May to August. In flats or coldframe. (See pp. 30 and 139.) Primroses, obconica (early and second sowing). Early sowing, March. Second, in May. chinensis. April. malacoides. June. Sal\ia. February. In flats. Schizanthus. September to November. Smilax. February to April. In flats. Solanum. February. In flats. Sweet Peas. According to Dr. A. C. Beal, who has given extensive study to the Winter-flowering Sweet Peas, seed sown: August 20 blooms Christmas September 1 . September 15 October November December January February March Verbena. February. In flats. Vinca rosea. Late August. Sow in frame; or sow in December indoors. Winter indoors in flats or pot in 2-in. pots. Violas, bedding. August. In coldframe. January Main crop February March Latter part of March April Aprfl to May From ]VIay on May and June 34 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION SHRUB AND TREE SEEDS When the fruits of many of the berried or juicy fruited shrubs are thoroughly ripened, they should be gathered and placed so that the mass of berries may ferment. This will allow the pulp to be washed from the seeds. In this group we are especially thinking of the Hawthorn, Kegel's Privet, Rhodotypos, Roses, Barberries, Boston Ivy, Euo- nymus and Viburnums. The seeds are often sown immediately in flats, placed in coldframes and in many cases are subjected to the Winter freezings which will soften and crack their seed coats. Some growers prefer to wait until February before subjecting the seeds to the frost. This method is known as stratification. Sand is frequently used instead of soil as the material in which to sow the seeds. When the ground can be worked in the Spring the seeds are sifted from the sand and sown in rows. If planting is delayed the seeds will have sprouted and will suffer injury by handling. Maples, Ailanthus, Birch, Catalpa, Chestnut, Beech, Ash, Hickory, Butternut, Locust, Black Walnut, and Basswood should be stratified. Besides these trees, the seeds for raising stocks of Apples, Cherries, Peaches and Plums are also subjected to the frost. Jenkins in the "Art of Propagation" gives excellent notes on the practice of raising trees from seed. He writes: "As a general rule, forest trees, and many other seeds, should be planted in the Fall soon after they ripen, or, if reserved for Spring planting, should be mixed with earth, moss, leaves, or other material, to prevent drying; imitating, in a measure, the conditions and protection as observed in nature. For seeds of the nut-bearing tree class, as Acorns, Chestnut, Hickory, black and white Walnut, the open field, if of mellow, rich soil, makes a good and sufficient seed bed. Fig. 7. — An excellent method of having a screen which can be rolled over the seedlings in a coldframe SEEDS 35 After the ground is thoroughly cultivated, mark out with a plow as for Corn or Potatoes, planting the seeds closely in the light furrows or drills. The drills may be made at any convenient distance. If cul- tivated with a hoe they need be but a foot apart; but, unless cramped for room, they had better be sown in broader drills, and the drills three or four feet apart, so that the space between them may be stirred with the horse hoe or cultivator. If the planting is done in the Fall, it is better to mulch the ground with straw, leaves, marsh-hay, or any like material; this will prevent baking of the soil after the Spring rains, and keep it in a nice mellow condition. The mulching should be removed in the Spring, or, at least so much that it will not interfere with the growth of the young seedhngs. The smaller seeds, such as Maple, White Ash, Tuhp, Linden, Magnolia, etc., require greater care in planting. Let the soil be thoroughly pulverized, then throw up into beds a few feet wide, and any desirable length. Mark out and plant in drills by placing a board across the bed, making the drill along the edge of the board with a sharpened stick, or, with the corner of the hoe; then sow the seed in the drill as you would Peas, or Beet seed ; cover hghtly, and then turn forward the board for a new drill. The width of the board regulates the distance apart of the drills, and as such seedhngs are not usually allowed to grow more than one year before transplanting, the board need not be more than eight or ten inches wide. Mulch with straw^ if planted in the Fall, removing the same in the Spring. Gathering of Tree Seeds. Seeds of the nut-bearing trees are easily gathered, but with Maple and other small seeds, gathering from the ground is exceedingly tiresome. Many of the small seeds, when fully ripe, may be shaken from the tree on large sheets of canvas spread underneath. With Maples, if the tree can be spared it may be cut down when the seed is nearly ripe and first begins to fall. They can be rapidly stripped from the branches by hand. On small trees they may often be gathered from the branches without cutting the tree. In gathering, after they have fallen on the ground, the leaves must first be raked off, and the seed gathered up mainly by hand picking. Tuhp seed is gathered when the cones first begin to open. The cones, which are made up of seeds, are usually picked from the tree by an active chmber. Our northern Magnolia acuminata seed grows in pods, closely resembhng a young green Cucumber; hence the name, Cucumber Tree. These pods may be gathered after they 36 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION have turned a red or pink color, and begin to open, showing the red seeds. Spread them out in the air after they are gathered. In a few days the seed is readily shelled out." SCALDING SEEDS Seeds which are not affected by freezing are frequently scalded. Boihng water is poured over them and allowed to cool. This process is used with Honey Locust, the Kentucky Coffee Tree and Ghorizema. CONIFERS FROM SEED Few American nurserymen grow Evergreen seedhngs. More profit is usually gained by importing them from countries where labor is cheaper and the chmate is more generally suited to them. There is, however, a real need for the small nurseryman to sow a few flats of certain kinds. Evergreen seeds may be sown in the green- house in the Autumn which w ill make a larger plant by the following Autumn than those sown out of doors. Such seedlings should be transplanted either in small pots or flats. The greenhouse may be shaded during the Summer, in which case the seedlings may be kept indoors during the Summer. Lath- sheds or frames covered with lath or cloth screens (see figs. 7 and 8), will also be useful. During the Winter a protection of partially decayed leaves should be given. The following Spring the seedhngs may be set in the field or kept in the frames for another year. When the seeds are sown in seed beds rather than in the greenhouse, the beds are best covered with burlap to retain moisture and keep out animal pests. Fig. 8. — Convenient shading for young seedlings, especially shrub and evergreens. Note that frame is hinged so that it can be turned back when watering or caring for the plants The following conifers are grown from seed: Abies Cryptomeria Picea Retinispora Biota Juniper Pine Sciadopitys Gedrus Larix Pseudolarix Taxus Chameecyparis Libocedrus Pseudotsuga Thuya SEEDS 37 In raising seedlings of Picea pungens, the Colorado Blue Spruce, many of the plants are not of the desired deep blue. These must be discarded because even from the best plants the seed does not come perfectly true. In sowing seeds of Juniperus virginiana, the Red Cedar, Joseph Meehan writes that the best success is obtained when "seeds were planted in the Fall, twelve months after being gathered. When planted in early Spring, eighteen months after being gathered, there always seemed to be a big loss. I have for three years in succession sowed one part in Fall and the other part in early Spring. The seeds were all the same and all stratified in the same manner, but the Fall sown were always far the better. In the main, this agrees with what is known of Juniper, Holly and other seeds in what refers to its taking a year for the seeds to be in the ground before germinating, but the point that it is better to sow in the Autumn rather than in Spring is not well known, and this will be of value to those who have such seeds to sow. The best plan to follow is to procure the seeds as soon as ripe, mix them with fine soil and place outdoors, letting them remain until the following Autumn. Then separate the seeds from the soil, if possible; if not, sow all as it is. The next Spring should see the seedhngs appear. There is no use in sowing at once as soon as gathered, as some do. This means a w ait of a year for the seedlings, and, in the meantime, the waste of the ground for a year and the loss of time in keeping the bed free from weeds has to be considered." DAMPING- OFF OF CONIFER SEEDLINGS Many seedhngs of conifers are killed by the damping-off fungus even before they make their appearance above the seed bed. Poor germinations are frequently due to this cause rather than to inferior seed. Evergreen seed ranges from fifty cents a pound for yellow Pine to two or four dollars for the native Spruces and five to ten dollars for Norway Pine. Useful facts are given by Hartley and Pierce in "Professional Paper No. 453" of the United States Department of Agriculture. Following is the summary of the 32-page bulletin devoted to this topic: (1) By damping-ofi* is meant the kiUing of very young seedlings by parasitic fungi. It is the most serious difficulty encountered in raising coniferous seedhngs. (2) To decrease losses from the disease excessive moisture and shade should be avoided. Caution must be used in following this 38 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION recommendation or many seedlings may be killed by drought or by white-spot injury to the base of the stem. Damping-off can often be decreased by putting beds on very sandy soil. Seed should not be sown any thicker than necessary. It appears better to sow broadcast than in drills. Late Fall sowing results in decreased losses at some nurseries and is worth trial. Proper attention to all of these measures will decrease the losses from damping-off, but at most nurseries they are not sufficient really to control the disease. (3) The addition of hme, wood ashes, and in some cases nitro- genous fertihzers seems to increase damping-off. Soil alkalinity appears to favor the disease. No effect has been noted from green manures. The use of unrotted stable manure has had very bad results; properly rotted manures seem less objectionable. Tank- age, charcoal, and cane sugar are the only nondisinfectant sub- stances which have to date given any hope of disease control. (4) Soil disinfection has so far proved the best method of combat- ing damping-off. Of many methods tested, treatments with sulphuric acid, copper sulphate, zinc chlorid, and formaldehyde have proved the most satisfactory. The disinfectants, however, behave quite differently at different nurseries. The acid has on the whole given the best results. Heat disinfection has been only partly effective. Disinfection by acid or copper sulphate is cheaper than by the other methods commonly recommended. (5) In addition to decreasing damping-off after the seedlings come up, the chemical disinfectants above mentioned, when properly used, cause an increase in the apparent germination and are very helpful in controlUng weeds. This latter effect alone at some nurseries pays the entire expense of the treatment. Sulphuric acid has, furthermore, at some places resulted in marked increases in the late season growth of Pines. (6) In some soils formaldehyde kills dormant seed, and the other three most satisfactory disinfectants at some nurseries kill the root tips of germinating seedlings. By proper precaution, all such injury may be prevented. (7) The results obtained to date show that it is entirely possible and practicable to control damping-off by soil disinfection. Un- fortunately, the varying behavior of disinfectants at different places renders it impossible to recommend any single treatment which will be everywhere successful. BROAD LEAVED EVERGREENS Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Andromedas, Callunas, Ericas and Azaleas are best sown in a mixture of peat and sandy loam over SEEDS 39 which is placed a thin layer of screened sphagnum moss. The seed is sown over the moss and covered by glass. Give a temperature of about 55 degrees. When they attain some size they are transplanted to frames out of doors and in the Winter given a shading and protection. EASTER LILIES FROM SEEDS Geo. W. OHver, of the United States Department of Agri- culture, who has conducted many experiments upon raising Easter Lihes from seed, writes as follows: "Seeds of the Easter Lily are not for sale by any of the seedsmen so far as known, therefore it must be produced as wanted by the gro\fer. This is not attended by any serious difficulty, provided the grower knows what to do at the proper time. The plants selected as seed bearers should be strong and absolutely free from disease. This condition will be indicated by the absence of dis- coloration of any kind on the fohage. To produce seeds of the best quahty the mother bulbs should be planted out in beds, where they are less hable to be neglected in watering. It is preferable not to use the pollen on its own stigmas but on the stigmas of a separate plant. Several hundred good seeds may be secured from each plant. All of the flowers on a plant will set seeds if the stigmas are polHnated, but three or four capsules to a good sized plant will give larger and better filled seed capsules and make stronger seedlings. The seed should be sown during August in boxes. Allow three leaves to develop before putting the seedHngs in two-inch pots then shift to three-inch when they have five or more leaves. By the middle of February they should be put in five inch pots and placed in an open frame as soon as the weather permits. Those which show signs of flowering in May should be thrown out. During August the strong plants should be in seven inch pots. When cool weather sets in, the sashes should be put on, giving air as they require it. These plants should be at their best by Easter. If everything goes well most of the plants should give from 25 to over 30 flowers per plant (see figs. 9 and 39). The highest number we have secured on one plant was 37. If liquid manure be given occasionally the flowers will be much larger than those produced by the foreign grown seedling bulbs. The results arising from the use of American field-grown bulbs of the Easter Lily are npt always as satisfactory as they should be. It has been the practice of bulb growers to burn the candle at both 40 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 9.— Easter Lily grown from seed. The photograph was taken seventeen months from seed sowing (See page 39) SEEDS 41 ends; that is, to dispose of the flowers and, later on, the bulbs. In order that the field-grown flowers may command good prices it is necessary to cut considerable length of stem and leaves along with the flowers. The consequence is that the bulbs do not mature as well as they would if the leaves were left on the plant until the maturity of the bulb, and the result of this practice is always unsatisfactory. If the seedHng method is given a fair trial the Lily will pay handsomely. I understand the seedling bulbs grown in Japan are always disbudded to give strength to the bulb. But in so far as I have seen this is not always the case in Bermuda." CACTUS FROM SEED l^ost Cactus seed is very fertile but few growers have known how to have the best conditions for germination and growth. Chas. H. Thompson* has determined the proper method. The best soil consists of equal parts of a well decayed sod and pure sand. The soil should not be rich in humus because this is a medium for germs of decay. Four-inch pots are used. They should either be new or else carefully burned or sterilized, otherwise Algae will choke out the young seedlings. The drain hole at the bottom of the pot should be enlarged and the pot filled one-fourth full of finely broken pots, on which the soil is carefully placed and pressed Kghtly. The seeds are sown and covered with a very thin layer of soil upon which is spread a one-fourth inch layer of gravel. The gravel will serve to keep the soil from washing, facihtates the passage of moist air and by shading prevents the surface soil from drying. When the seedhngs grow they force their way through the gravel and for some time appear small and globular. They are tender,^ juicy and readily damp-off". The temperature should be about 70 degrees. Transplant into flats of same soil when several spines have formed on the plants. SAVING SEED FROM DESIRABLE PLANTS The normal flower of a plant must have at least two parts, the male part (see fig. 10), or the stamens which are the pollen bearers, and the female part, or the pistil which has an ovary at its base and will bear the seeds. A flower may have brightly colored petals, but these are not necessary for seed production. * Thompson, Chas. H. Ornamental Cacti; Their Culture and Decorative Value. U. S. Dept. of Agr. Bur. of Plant Industry, Bulletin 262. 42 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 10. — Section of typical flower. P, Petal, all the petals taken together is the corolla. S, Sepal, the sepals taken together is the calyx. ST, Stamen, the male part of the flower; AN, the pollen producing part or anther; FI, the filament or thread-like portion. PI, Pistil, the female part of the flower. STI, its sticky stigma which receives the pollen; O, the ovary which bears the seeds. R, Receptacle, a portion often making part of a fruit (See page 41) Fig. 11. — Squash blossoms. A, The female flower; note the bulge beneath the corolla; this is the undeveloped Squash. B, The male fiower. All such plants as Melons, Cucumbers, Goards and Pumpkins Lear these sorts of flowers (See page 43) SEEDS 43 For every seed which grows in a seed pod there must have been a pollen grain upon the pistil. In the Orchid where thousands of seeds are produced, thousands of pollen grains must have lodged upon the pistil. Some plants do not need to be crossed or polUnated; as an example, Beans, Sweet Peas and such flowers are so constituted that the pollen is shed on the pistil and seed is formed. In the Cucumbers and Squashes certain flowers are male and others are female (see fig. 11). No seed is produced unless a bee or a man places some pollen from the male flower upon the pistil of the female. In other words, the flowers which some persons have called sterile flowers in the Cucumber are just as essential as the other flowers. In the Corn plant the pollen is produced by the tassel and falls on the silks; any* silk which does not receive a grain of pollen fails to produce a kernel of corn. When the grower notices a particularly superior plant, let us say a fine Cyclamen of good colors and excellent habit of plant, the best method to use is to take pollen from one flower on the plant and place it on the pistil of another. It is best not to depend on its producing seed without pollinating. Pollination may be Fig. 12. — A Daisy- like flower. A, A head of pot Marigold. Note that this is not a single flower, but a bunch of small florets, the showy sorts at the outside are ray florets; those toward the center are tubular and called disc florets. The ray florets are often only female flowers, but the disc florets are bisexual. . B, A ray floret. Note the two forked stigma of the pistil, the single petal and the large ovary. C, A disc floret. Note the feathery stigma of the pistil; the ring of stamens surrounding the pistil, and the five parted corolla (See page 44) 44 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION carried on with a camel's hair brush, or the whole flower may be picked and shaken over the other flower. Better results will be attained by most persons if the above method is used rather than trying to cross two difl'erent plants. Crossing diverse plants will give surprising results, but they are not always commercial. Hybridizing is a difl'erent process from saving seed of a known good variety. The good variety may, frequently, be intensified by crossing it upon itself or upon another flower on the same plant. In saving seeds of Asters, Cinerarias, Gerberas, Calendula, Cosmos, Ageratum and all the Daisy-like flowers, merely place a bag over the flower and it will ripen its seed without crossing. Each Daisy-like flower (see fig. 12) is really a bunch of small flowers which will shed pollen upon each other. Do not make the mistake of saving seeds of Lettuce, Radishes or Celery from any plant which goes to seed too rapidly. It is apt to inherit this quality. The fact that the Radish often seeds so rapidly is due to its not producing a good root. We grow" Radishes for the root, not the seed. Seed should thoroughly mature before gathering and must be kept rather cool in storage. DIOECIOUS PLANTS The following plants have the two sexes on separate plants. Unless both sorts of plants are in close proximity no seeds nor fruits are produced. Plants of this sort are called dioecious. AiLANTHUs. Male flowers have objectionable odor; only female trees should be propagated. Broussonetia. Male plants produce flowers in pendulous catkins, greenish in color; female plants produce the flowers in globular heads, showing purplish hairs untU August, when the surface becomes dotted with orange pustules a quarter of an inch long. GERcmiPHYLLUM. Both male and female flowers are very small: inconspicuous. The female tree is more beautiful, being very spreading; the male is columnar, according to F. Canning. Chionanthus. Only certain plants bear fruits. Cycas. The male flower is a cone-like structure; female flowers are clusters of modified leaves (see figs. 13 and 14). El iE A. GNUS. Certain bushes are sterile, although the flowers bear both sexes. Garrya elliptiga. Greenish white male catkins; ornamental. Black berries are also showy. SEEDS 45 DIOECIOUS PLANTS — Concluded Shepherdia. Plant both male and female plants for fruit. Skimmia. Flowers are of- ten dioecious. Zanthoxylum. There is little difference in the ornamental value of male and female trees . Fig. 14. — -Female flower of Cycas revoluta. The ovules are borne in the notches of the deeply cut, modified leaves Ginkgo. Male trees only should be propa- gated; female fruits smell badly. HiPPOPHAE. Without both sexes planted together, the beautiful fruit display is lost. Idesia. Flowers are greenish yellow; fra- grant. Male flowers Y2 inch across; the female flowers ^ inch. Fruit in Septem- ber. Orange red and very showy when leaves are gone. Ilex. Holly. In some Hollies the flowers are fertile; in others, plants of both sexes are necessary if berries are to be formed. Maclura. (Toxylon) The sterile flowers are in racemes, the fertile are crowded in a large spherical head. MoRus. UsuaUy monoecious; both sorts of flowers in catkins. Phellodendron conspicuous, and hangs through the Winter Flowers greenish and in- Fig. 13. — Male flower of but the fruit is berry-like ^^^^^ revoluta.. Globular pollen sacs are found on the lower side of each scale 46 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION POLLINATING TOMATOES In the Tomato the stamens are in a ring (see fig. 15) surrounding the pistil which protrudes beyond it. In the bright sunshine, the blossoms open, the stamens ripen their pollen and shed it. It is a simple process to use some sort of small wooden spoon which is held beneath the flower. Tap the flower with the other hand, the pollen will be shed into the spoon; the pistil is then carefully dipped into the pollen. When Tomatoes are forced, artificial pollination of this sort is necessary. The worker goes through the house about noon and pollinates all flowers which are open. If the Tomatoes are being grown during the Winter it will be found that on sunny days more pollen is produced. On these bright days the pollen should be put in a small glass bottle and used during the sunless period ; pollen will keep, in a bottle hghtly corked, for several weeks. In the Springtime hand polhna- tion is not necessary if the vines are vigorously shaken. Certain varieties may be poUinated by the shghtest jar of the vines. Bonny Best rarely requires hand pollination except in the dullest weather. Fig. 15. — Tomato blossom. Note the ring of stamens surrounding the pistil POLLINATION OF CUCUMBERS Hand pollination of Cucumbers is a laborious process so that bees are often used for the purpose. C. W. Waid advises a strong hive to a half acre of Cucumbers. The bees are often restless when first placed in the house, but soon become quite at home. CHAPTER II CUTTINGS Soft Wood — What Wood to Use — Medium for Rooting — Inserting Cuttings — Temperature — Damping - off — Callus — Monocoty- ledonous Plants — Sand and Water Method — Wardian Case — Florists' List — Perennials — Hard Wood — Summer Cuttings of ^ Shrubs — Greenhouse — Frames — Large Stem Conservatory Plants — Evergreen — Leaf — Root. Fig. 16.-— Condition of wood for cuttings. Note that in making soft wood cuttings certain portions of the stem are brittle and break with a snap; this is the best part to use. Wood that is hard and stringy does not root as readily (See page 4S) CUTTINGS OR SLIPS ANY part which has been severed from a plant is a cutting and if we were clever enough any portion of a plant should produce a new individual. If we knew the method, Maple leaves could be made to root. At the present time sHps or cuttings from the stems of plants is the simplest method, although root cuttings and leaf cuttings may be made. The European notion of a florists' cutting is that a cutting is a thor- oughly established young plant. American growers have disappointed their foreign neighbors by sending them merely an unrooted sHp. 47 48 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fi} Fig. 17A. — Chrysanthemum cutting. This is untrimmed as cut from the plant . 17B. — Chrysanthemum cutting. The two lower leaves are removed to reduce the loss of moisture from the cutting. Note that the cut at the base of the cutting is through an eye, or node; it is, therefore, called a node cutting (See page 120) SOFT WOOD CUTTINGS Cuttings or slips are taken of most commercial plants because this is a rapid method of propagation; besides, the variety is propa- gated perfectly true, a dependence which can not be placed on growing stock from seeds. Favorable stem, leaf and flower char- acters are perpetuated exactly as in the parent plant. Some plants produce no seed; these must be propagated by some other means, such as cuttings. WOOD TO USE The wood should be brittle, not stringy ; when bent it should snap, not bend. (See fig. 16.) If too immature the cuttings damp-off readily; if too old, the slips are slow to root. The best material is the first one to three inches of the tips of the shoots. Two or more eyes should be found on each slip. The cut should prefer- ably be made through an eye at the base, although many plants will root from cuttings made at other points than an eye, or node. Clematis roots better when cut at an internode The growth CUTTINGS 49 activity is considered to be greater at the nodes and rooting should be more sure. The cutting will have no roots to supply the food and water to the leaves, so that most of them should be re- moved or much shortened. It wiU be the food stored in the stem and remaining leaves which will produce the new roots. Some propagators argue that the leaves should not be removed, because the lower leaves aid in the manufacture of food and they as well as the stem may root. By retaining the leaves the cutting is saved the heahng of the wounds necessarily made. For some species it will be best to remove most of the leaves, and for others it will not be advisable to disturb them in any way. Most amateurs blunder by wishing a large plant at the start and do not shorten the cuttings enough. In other words, too long a cutting will be difficult to root and may make an unshapely plant. N^ver allow flower buds to remain on the cutting; they will only exhaust the vitahty. As soon as the cuttings are made they should be dropped into a pail of water or wrapped in moist paper to keep them fresh. They should not be kept in the water too long, however, else the bark will be loosened. From time to time, as sufficient cuttings are made, they should be placed in the cutting bench. Glass Fig. 18. — Propagating case. Shows cuttings inserted in the sand of a propagating case. The glass at the top confines the air. Such a case is useful in propagating many conservatory plants 50 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION MEDIUM FOR ROOTING CUTTINGS Coarse sand, free from all organic matter, has proved to be the best material for using in the rooting of cuttings. The sand fur- nishes good drainage, but at the same time it allows for a free passage of water up from below. To eliminate dangers from diseases the sand is usually sterilized. Fig. 19. — A propagation house. The roof should be shaded. The benches are boarded in below to retain the heat, an advantage in maintaining a higher temperature in the sand than in the atmosphere. The sash-covered center benches may be used for propagating such plants as require a confined atmosphere. By building up the benches and covering with glass, this house could be used for grafting Roses Before inserting the cuttings the sand should be thoroughly watered and tamped, or pounded hard with a wooden mallet or brick. INSERTING CUTTINGS By the use of a straight edge and a large, heavy knife, a groove is cut into the sand. Cuttings are inserted and firmed tightly. The commercial method is to place all the cuttings in the rows first, then, with the fingers, the sand is compacted about them. The straight edge is then placed along the rows and several raps of the mallet will serve to further set them firmly. Unless cuttings are so treated the air will get into the sand, and the base of the cutting will dry. After setting the cuttings, water them thoroughly and cover with newspapers or a cheesecloth screen. CUTTINGS 51 TEMPERATURE FOR ROOTING CUTTINGS To induce root action rather than top growth, it is agreed that there should be some sort of bottom heat; that is, the temperature of the sand should preferably be greater than that of the air. In greenhouses this is attained by running several pipes under the cutting benches. For Summer rooting out of doors hotbeds may be used and fresh and fermenting manure employed as the source of heat. The florist and nurseryman prefer to have a diff'erence of from 5 degrees to 10 degrees between sand and air. DAMPING-OFF FUNGUS The "damping-ofl"' fungus is very often encountered in the cutting bench. The cuttings decay at the surface of the sand, the tops often remaining green some time after the stem has blackened. Excess of water in the sand or air favor the spread of the disease. Higher temperature than the plant requires and close conditions are other factors. Formahn, used at the rate of one part formalin to fifty of water, using two quarts to a foot of sand, will kill the fungus, but the cost is rather prohibitive. Allowing the sun to enter the house and letting the bench become rather dry, will help the control when the plants are in the bench. It is suggested that peroxide of hydrogen be used to supply oxygen to the sand and air. Definite proportions have not been accurately determined. CALLUS When the cuttings start to root they will gradually produce a layer of spongy tissue over the cut surfaces. This is a callus and usually precedes rooting. Leaf callus forms on the veins (note fig. 26). The callus is first a wound protection, but later the cells are absorptive and even go so far as to produce organs lost by wounding. MONOCOTYLEDONOUS PLANTS The monocotyledonous plants, such as the grasses, lilies, As- paragus and aroids, root in a different way than the dicotyledonous plants. Callus is rarely formed, but the cut-surface becomes corky in appearance. No roots are sent out from the stem, but one of the buds in the axils of the lower leaves enlarges and sends out roots. 52 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION The bud continues to grow and becomes the new plant, the cutting is soon withered away and the new plant is independent. POTTING CUTTINGS Most plants should be potted or transplanted before the roots get a half-inch long, using small pots or flats of a friable, not too rich, soil. Allowing the cutting to remain in the propagating bench will be detrimental, because it will only use up its own stored food and can get no food from the sand. Certain plants, for example, Clematis, have a tendency to produce a great deal of callus but roots may be tardy to appear. By paring off some of the excess, the roots may be induced to grow. THE SAND AND WATER METHOD OF ROOTING CUTTINGS By the sand and water method many a tree may be rooted which is difficult to increase in other ways. It consists in using a pan, or a pot with the hole closed, filled with sand. Half-ripened wood is used for cuttings and placed in the pot. The sand is kept in such a wet condition that the water itself is almost visible on its surface. The pan or pot can then be placed in the sun, the excessive moisture preventing wilting, and rooting soon takes place. Gor- donia pubescens is rooted by this method. WARDIAN CASE Every conservatory and general flower growing estabhshment should have a frame in the greenhouse, in which the atmosphere can be confined and good bottom heat maintained. Such a frame is caUed a Wardian case. Robert Shore, gardener to the Cornell University Department of Botany has devised a sash-covered frame which is maintained at a relatively high temperature by boarding up the heating pipes. A pan of water sets upon the pipes and tends to equalize the tempera- ture. The bottom of the frame is provided with a number of holes to allow for the free passage of the heat upward. There is a layer of three or four inches of sphagnum moss over the holes; this serves to retain the moisture. Many plants, such as Crotons, Dracsenas, Nepenthes and other tropical plants, are readily propagated in such a frame. Mr. Shore propagates these plants successfuUy by placing the end of the cutting through the drainage hole of an inverted flower pot which is placed upon the moss. The roots start in the moisture-laden air inside the empty pot, for the pot is not filled with moss, sand or soil. ^ CUTTINGS 53 THE FLORIST MAKES CUTTINGS ACCORDING TO THIS TIME TABLE Abutilon. Autumn. Green wood. 55° to 65°. Acacia. June or Winter. Half-ripened wood. 60° to 70°. AcALYPiL\. Autumn to Spring. 60° to 70°. Agath^a. Autumn and Spring. 55°. Ageratum. February and March. 60° to 65°. Akebia. Midsummer; half-ripened wood. Winter; hard wood. 45° to 50°. Allamanda. Winter or Spring when pruning. Ripe or soft wood. 50° to 60°. Give a little bottom heat. Aloysia. See Lemon Verbena. Alternanthera. August; place in sand. When rooted place in flats. Pot in April for sale. 60°. Araugaria. Cut back plants. Use leaders only for cuttings. Lateral cuttings make asymmetrical plants keep cool until rooted. 60°. Ardisia. Half -ripened shoots. 50° to 60°. Usually by seed. AxrcuBA. Summer to Autumn. Half-ripened wood. 50° to 60°. Begonia. (Lorraine group.) Before January. Usually leaf cuttings. 65° to 70°. Bougainville A. Early Spring. Half-ripened wood. 60°. BouvARDiA. March. More difiicult by stem cuttings than root. 60° to G5°. Buddleia. Summer; soft wood in greenhouse. Autumn; hard wood, keep through Winter, out of danger of frost. Camellia. Late Summer. Ripened wood. 60° to 70°. Often grafted. Carnation. See page 119. Chorizema. Winter or early Spring. May be rooted in sand bench, or in pots in mixture of sand and leaf mold. Place in Wardian case or under bell jar. 65° to 70°. Chrysanthemum. See page 120. CoDi^UM. Place under bell jar or in W^ardian case (see page 52). 70° or above. Bottom heat. Coleus. September to Spring. 60° to 65°. Croton. See Codiaeum. English Ivy. August to September; also, from indoor plants, De- cember to January. 50° to 55°. Erica. December to Spring. Use strong plants. Cuttings short. Cover with beU jar. Never above 60°. Euphorbia fulgens. Midsunamer. (See Poinsettia, page 128.) FiTTONiA. Early Spring. Pot in leaf mold and sand in 2-in. pots. 65°. Fuchsia. February to Spring. Use only newest wood from plants cut back some time previously. 50° to 55°. Gardenia. Winter. December to February. Use soft wood. Keep close. 65° to 70°. Bottom heat. Genista. Early Spring. Soft wood. 45°. German Ivy. January to March. 60°. Heaths. See Erica. Hedera. See English Ivy. Heliotrope. July, for Winter use. Soft wood. 60°. Hydrangea. February and March. 50° to 55°. Slight bottom heat. 54 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION TIME TABLE FOR MAKING CUTTINGS — Continued Ipom^a. Bona-nox. See Moonvine. Iresine. Mid-September. 60° to 65°. Jasminum. Autumn and Winter. Ripened wood. 50° to 55°. Lantana. January to Spring. Green wood. 60 to 65°. Lemon Verbena. February to April. 50° to 55°. Slight bottom heat. LiNUM TRiGYNUM. March. Plants set in open in May. Pinch for compactness. Pot in September. Lobelia. Pot selected plants from field and propagate through Winter. Good habits and colors are perpetuated. Metrosideros. Half- ripened wood, with heel. Place in pots of sand; keep moist. Moonvine. September. Keep cool. Continue propagating through Winter. Nepenthes. (See Wardian case, page 52.) Nerium. Spring. Either sand or water. Keep moist and warm. Pachysandra. Midsummer to Autumn. Green wood. Pelargonium (Geranium). September to May. 56° to 60°. Poinsettia.' See page 128. Roses. See page 129. Santolina. January to Early Spring. Soft wood. 50° to 55°. Snapdragon. January to March. Many growers believe that seedlings make more floriferous plants, less liable to disease and with greater vigor. Stevia. Late Spring. Half-ripened wood. 50° to 55°. SwAiNSONiA. January to March. Green wood. 50° to 55°. Verbena. February to March. Green wood. 50° to 55°. ViNCA MAJOR. Autumn; or January to March. Half-ripened shoots. 60° to 65°. Can layer in field. Violets. See page 138. MAKING CUTTINGS OF PERENNIALS Cuttings can be made of hundreds of perennials. If you wish to increase your stock, merely take little slips in the Spring when the plants are six or seven inches tall. Be sure to leave a few buds below where the cutting is taken; it will not injure the plants in the least, but will cause them to become branchy. Choose wood that is a little ripened. Some of the perennials w hich are readily propagated by cuttings are here given; others are found on page 139. Ajuga Helenium Pentstemon Arabis Hesperis Perennial Sunflower ASGLEPIAS HeUCHERA PhLOX Boltonia Hollyhock Centaurea Iberis Cerastium Larkspur p Chrysanthemum Lobelia Fotentilla Clematis Loosestrife Salvia Dahlia Lotus Sedum EUPATORIUM MONARDA VeRONICA Pinks Plumbago CUTTINGS 55 Fig. 20. — Dahlia cuttings. Such shoots make excellent material for cuttings, each one besides being of the proper length is also provided with a heel or "meat" at the base. Heel cuttings are thought to produce better tubers In the Summer the cuttings may best be rooted in coldframes prepared much Hke the propagating benches in the greenhouse. Cheesecloth screens should also be erected over the frames. Care must be taken that the cuttings never dry out and the ventilation must be perfect. Damping-ofF is sure to result if the conditions are stuffy and moist. 56 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION HARD WOOD CUTTINGS Most of our shrubs and many of our trees may be propagated by hard wood cuttings. The wood of the last season's growth is taken in the Autumn or early Winter, when the leaves have dropped (preferably before heavy freezes) and cut into approximately six inch lengths. The cuts at the base and tip should be through an eye, although this is not absolutely necessary (see fig. 21.) They are usually tied in bunches of fifty or one hundred cuttings. After making the cuttings they may be placed in boxes of moist soil or sand and placed in a cellar, or they may be buried upside down in a sandy knoll deep enough so that they are below the frost. A mulch over the top will also retain the heat. Take special care to keep the tops all one way and have the butts in one plane so that they may callus uniformly. Early in the Spring the cuttings, which will have rooted, or callused, should be planted in rows far enough apart for cultivation, and 6 to 8 inches apart in the rows. They should be so planted that one or two eyes are above the surface of the soil. In the Autumn they should be dug and sorted for size. Some shrubs will require planting in nursery rows again; others will be salable the first year. The Climbing Roses are easily propagated by this method. Grapes are so multiplied; cuttings 5 to 7 inches long is sufficient. Some growers also use one-eye cuttings of Grapes (see also Vitis p. 177.) Fig. 21.— Hard- wood cutting. Note that the top is cut just above the buds, and that the basal cut is made through the buds. Such cutting s should range from 4 to 8 inches long SUMMER CUTTINGS OF SHRUBS Many trees and shrubs are readily propagated by taking soft wood or half-ripened wood cuttings in June and July. This furnishes a very cheap method of propagation. Such cuttings will resemble the cuttings of the herbaceous or soft- wooded plants. Greenhouse rooted. The cuttings are best rooted in flats, in the greenhouse, where they may be easily handled. The cuttings may also be placed in the bench. A house should be used which gets the sun. "Thoroughly renovate the benches and give a coating of white- wash which will sweeten the boards and destroy the disease spores. CUTTINGS 57 Four inches of sand will be necessary. Put a thin shading of lime on the glass and hang a piece of musUn inside the entire width and length of the bench. Tack the upper edge fast to the rafter, and arrange it so that the muslin will shde up and down upon a series of wires. The object of this is, that on dull days and in the early morning and late in the evening the curtain can be pulled up, admitting the light. The reason for putting the curtain on the inside is to allow the sun's rays to pass through the glass, thereby fur- nishing the necessary heat to cause root action, without allowing the direct sunhght to strike the cuttings, which would be fatal."* Such parts of the house not used for cuttings should be screened with muslin hung from the sash bars. Because the work is done in hot weather, evaporation will take place rapidly from the cuttings, so that there must be as little circulation of air as possible. *As the cuttings are made, keep them moist by placing in damp paper. Insert in the sand, about two to two and one-half inches apart and one-half to three-quarters of an inch apart in the row. Firm the sand and thoroughly water, covering the cuttings with newspaper during the bright sunhght. Syringe the cuttings every morning, but only water them when they become dry. When the cuttings have rooted take off papers and continue to spray. A musHn shade will now be necessary. When well rooted, place in flats under a slat frame house out of doors and give plenty of water. Many kinds will make a foot of growth in the season. Protect for Winter. Set in open soil in Spring. FRAMES No bottom heat is necessary indoors, but in the frames some bottom heat will be needed. A foot of fresh horse manure, well trodden, will furnish the heat. Over the manure spread a layer of 4 to 6 inches of sand. Cover the frame with a tight-fitting sash. Build a muslin canopy above the frame about 3 to 4 feet high to protect the young stock from the sun. Lilac cuttings should be made early in June as the wood ripens earher than some other sorts. By this same method may also be propagated such shrubs as Andromeda, Hydrangea paniculata, Tamarix, Syringa, Forsythia, Bobinia hispida, Akebia, Kerria, Symphoricarpos, Cornus, Clematis flammula, Berberis, Caly- canthus. Viburnum, Exochorda, Weigela, Deutzia, Lonicera, Ligustrum, Althaea, Sambucus and Lycium. * Trillow, Wra. Propagation of Shrubs. Proc. of Soc. of Iowa Florists, 1912, pp. 75-80. 58 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION LARGE STEM CONSERVATORY PLANTS Alocasias, Diejfenbachias, Dracaenas, and some other conserva- tory plants are readily propagated by cutting the old stems into four-inch pieces, which are placed in the propagating bench with bottom heat but not too great moisture. The Wardian case is useful for this purpose; when rooted they are potted in sandy loam and peat. EVERGREEN CUTTINGS Many of the evergreens are propagated by stem cuttings in the early Fall or Midwinter. The cuttings are usually made a bit shorter than hard wood cut- tings of deciduous-leaved plants. They are best placed in sand, using cold- frames or nearly-spent hot- beds. They usually pro- duce a callus before freez- ing. Cold weather makes it necessary to cover the frames with sashes and a heavy coating of straw. In the Spring it will be noted that many of the cuttings have not only produced a large callus but they will have made some top growth. Those made in Midwinter are placed in flats under the bench of a cool house. Three types of cuttings are used: simple, heel and mallet. The simple cutting (see fig. 22) is the sort men- tioned previously in the case of soft wood and hard wood cuttings. The heel cutting (see fig. 23) difl'ers in one resepct only, in that it has a small sHce of the parent stem attached at its base. The mallet cutting (see fig. 24), as Fig. 22. — A simple conifer cutting. The cut shows a species of Reiinispora. The leaves are cut from that portion of the stem which is to be placed beneath the surface of the sand CUTTINGS 59 the name infers, has at its base a small or large piece of the entire stem to which it was attached. The two latter sorts of cuttings are thought to be better because of the food stored in the parent stem. Especially neces- sary are the mallet cut- tings to those evergreens which root very slowly. Only well ripened shoots should be used; the Softer branches are inclined to damp-off. The hghter colored branches are quite apt to be immature. Sometimes the cut- tings are made in Spring, which do not root as well as those taken in the Autumn. The following ever- greens are propagated by mature wood cuttings as described above: Azalea Galluna gotone aster Gr\ptomeria gupressus Hedera helix Jxj]vn>ERUs — about New Years M AH ONI A Retinispora obtusa Taxus Thuya Fig._ 23. — A heel cutting. The sketch shows a cutting which has been made so that a portion of the parent stem is attached to the base. This is a species of Juniper Some Evergreens, such as Pines and Spruces, grow readily from seed, which method alone is used. Writing of the rooting of conifers, Mr. Balfour* says that "the * Balfour, I. Bayley. Problems of Propagation. Journ. of Roy. Hort. Society, Vol. XXXVIII, part III, pp. 447-461. 60 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Evergreens often produce calluses very poorly but they all form some. The obstacle to the rooting is the resin which covers the cut surfaces and hardens. If the resin skin is scraped from the cutting they will often form abundant callus. Should the callus become too large it may be pared down in which case roots will be encouraged. In Pine the flow of resin is great; it is also thought very difficult to root from cuttings. The ends of the cuttings should be plunged in nearly boihng water; this seals the resin canals and the heat promotes the formation of a callus." Chamxcyparis no ot- katensis and Lawsoniana pendula are best propa- gated by cuttings made in early Winter placed in heat under glass. Pot after rooting and grow for a year or more before planting out of doors. Cunninghamia lanceo- lata should best be root- ed from half-ripe wood in late Summer under glass. Libocedrus cuttings are rooted in late Summer under glass, but they root very slowly. LEAF CUTTINGS Plants with fleshy leaves or thick petioles may frequently be propagated by leaf cut- tings. The Rex Begonia is the most familiar ex- ample illustrating this method. The leaves may be cut into a number of more or less triangular pieces (see fig. 25), each of which has a large piece of one of the main veins of the leaf. When such pieces are inserted half their depth into the sand, the veins will callus and the young plantlet start from this point. (See fig. 26.) Fig. 24. — A mallet cutting. In making the mallet cutting a piece of the entire stem of the parent plant is left at the base. This mallet is a store- house of food; such cuttings often root when the simple cutting does not (see page 59) CUTTINGS 0] Another method of making a leaf cutting of the Begonia is to cut through the main veins at various points and pin the entire leaf upon the sand of the propagating bench (see fig. 27), so that the cut ends of veins must be in contact with the sand. A confined atmosphere and shght bottom heat are bene- ficial to rooting. A bell jar, ' placed over the leaves, will serve to give Fig. 26. — Rooted leaf cutting. The second cutting of the leaf shown in figure 25 has callused, rooted and produced a young plantlet Fig. 25. — Rex Begonia leaf cutting. The leaf is so cut that each portion has a piece of a large vein. Each section of the leaf when placed in the sand will root. The parts around the outside of the leaf are thin and are thrown away (shown by white in sketch) the proper conditions so that the leaf blade will not dry out. Many plants with very fleshy petioles and leaf blades may be propagated by placing the petiole, or stem of the leaf, in the sand. The blade is often reduced in area by cutting away the outer and thinner parts of the leaf. The leaves of such plants as the Rose, Lilac, Cabbage, and Lemon, will root by this me- thod, but this is not prac- ticed conmiercially. Achime- nes, Begonia (Lorraine group). COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Gesneria, Gloxinia, Strep- tocarpus, Hoya and Pep- eromia (see fig. 28), how- ever, are successfully rooted. With the leaves of certain bulbous plants, as the Hyacinth, small bulbs are produced at the base when they root. Sanseviera leaves are cut into three inch lengths and allowed to dry for a day or two. They are then placed perpendicularly in the sand where they must not be overwatered, in which case they start new plants nicely. Bryophyllum leaves when placed on the sand bench will send out young plantlets at every notch in the leaf Sphaerogyne or Tococa, a beautiful broad-leaved conservatory plant, has a peculiar method of propagation which is described by Geo. W. Oliver: "Its propagation is very simple but requires bottom heat. Cut the stems about two inches below the leaves, trim Ihe leaves to within two inches of the petioles. Split the stem down the middle and place the cuttings in sand where there is a brisk bottom heat. Make sure that the under part of the small piece of leaf lies close to the sand, then every piece will root pro- vided the leaves are neither too young nor too old. The rooted pieces should be placed in 2-inch pots. Replace the potted cuttings in the sand with the under part of the leaf again close to the sand. The young growth from the axil of the leaf will furnish the stem of the future plant. Too much water at any one time is apt to be hurtful. When the small pots are full of roots the rooted cuttings may be placed into 3-inch pots, without in any way removing any of the soil This can easily be done if care be taken. All of the rooted Fig. 27.— Another method of making a leaf cutting of Begonia Rex. The leaf shown in figure 25 might have been pinned to the sand by bent wires. Near the pins the main veins when cut would have pro- duced small plants (See page 61) CUTTINGS 6S cuttings will not make symmetrical plants and those which refuse to do as we wish can be brought under subjection by using them for propagation. The full grown plants do not look well when the leaves are irregularly developed, but the symmetrical plant is a thing of beauty. When old plants approach the flowering stage they should be cut down and used for propagation They are seldom handsome when over four feet tall." I. Bayley Balfour remarks that plants grown from a leaf taken near the flowering region, of the Begonia, for example will bloom more quickly than one obtained otherwise. ROOT CUTTINGS Many plants with thick roots may be propagated by cutting the roots or root stocks into smaU pieces. But, curiously, variegations are often not reproduced by this method. Some are propagated indoors in the greenhouse, others, the stronger growing sorts, are propagated out of doors In propagating plants by root cuttings in the greenhouse, flats or shallow boxes filled with light loam and leaf mold are used c A B Fig. 28. — Leaf cuttings of Peperomia. A, A simple cutting of Peperomia Sandersii. B, A leaf properly cut prepared for making a leaf cutting. C, The growth from such a cuttmg as B. The young plantlet starts from a callus at the base of the leaf stem, or petiole (See page 62) 64 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Section I. The smaller and more delicate rooted sorts are cut into lengths of one to two inches, and scattered over the surface of the soil, after which they are covered with about a half inch of finely sifted hght loam. Cover the flats with newspaper and start cool. Adventitious buds will soon form. When the growths have started a bit, the plantlets should be transplanted to other flats about two to three inches apart each way. The following perennials are so propagated: Achillea Ceratostigma Polygonum Anemone japonica Coronilla varl\ Romneya BouvARDiA Euphorbia Saponaria Plumbago Larpent^ Section 11. Some other plants, although propagated indoors, are best handled by placing the cuttings perpendicularly in the soil so that the upper end protrudes a half inch (See fig. 29). This class of plants usually has fleshier roots than those in the previous group. The following are so propa- ated: Anchusa bocconia Dicentra spectabilis dodegatheon Gaillardia Gypsophila Helianthus rigidus MONARDA P^ONIA Papaver; fleshy root species Phlox, perennial Statice ^'";^^V^t ""k"^' cutting. A fleshy StOKESIA root which has produced a tiny „ sprout ThERMOPSIS Section III, Root cuttings when planted in the open ground are usually large in diameter and four to six inches long. They are planted almost horizontaUy in trenches and covered two inches deep. A few of the trees and shrubs propagated by this method are: Blackberries Hypericum Sassafras Calycanthus Phellodendron Syringa Cladrastis Robinia Xanthoceras Roses CHAPTER III BULBS ♦ LAYERS ♦ DIVISIONS Bulbs — Hyacinths — Tulips — Bulblets ^ Easter Lily — Corms — Tubers — Tuberous Roots — Dahlias — Fancy Leaf Galadium — Offsets — Suckers — Layers — Simple — Tip — Serpentine — Con- tinuous — Air — Chinese — Preparing Plants for Layering — Runners — Mound — Rhizomes — Conservatory Plants — Division of Perennials. BULBS are actually entire blooming plants telescoped together. Upon the approach of proper environmental conditions they start to grow and bloom. There are two types of bulbs : the tuni- cated and the scaly bulbs. The tunicated bulbs illustrated by the Onion and Tuhp are clothed in a tight-fitting dry skin or tunic (see fig. 37). The scaly bulbs, illustrated by those of the Lily (see fig. 31), are composed of thick, over- lapping scales. Many bulbs propagate naturally by the production of small bulbs, or bulbels inside of the other bulbs, in which case the small bulbs gradually become larger and larger until they are of blooming size. (See figs. 30 and 33.) Observation of the behavior of the Nar- cissus to produce double- nose bulbs will illustrate this method. When bulbs propagate by this method, frequent transplanting is necessary to keep the old and new bulbs from crowd- ing. A number of our bulbs Fig. . .e,- 30. — Diagram of bulb structure. Note the thick fleshy scales which compose the main part of the bulb; the flower stem and true leaves at the center of the bulb; the two small bulbs, or bulbels, produced between the scales but gradually pushed outside as the bulb grows; the white area at the base of the bulb corresponds to the stems of plant parts above the soil 65 66 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION in the garden are multi- plied by taking the bul- bels and starting them in sandy soil in small pots boxes. Notably are Begonia Evansiana the hardy Begonia, Oxalis, Tuberose, and many of the Dutch bulbs. A great number of our Spring flowering bulbs are grown mostly in Holland and are there propagated. For list of bulbs and their propa- gation see page 141. HYACINTH PROPAGATION Fig. 31. — Easter Lily bulb. This illustrates the scaly type of bulb (See page 65) r^i , • r> V H fe ; ll^g propagation oi Hyacinths is about as interesting as that of any bulb. The Dutch have two commercial methods, known as "notching" and "scooping." In notching (see fig. 32, B) cuts are made transversely in wheel or star fashion across the base of the bulb. Just how far to cut is learned by experience. If the cut is made too deep the young bulbs will not start, and if not deep enough too httle increase is obtained. By the second method, that of scooping, the base or stem of the bulb is cut out, leaving the bottom scooped so that each layer of bulb scales is cut through. (See fig. 32, G.) .^:^ ^i^ >■'»«.■ 'il*'' i^ •< :fll^H ■ p^'m K^j^: ^Fr ■f 'M M": /;< ■' \ wKmi ■^m v M W f pa -% <" v^Ps ^ -C-/V- ?^- ^ t.y':^ : '&. ■'1 U- :. ■*#^. f i ' w^ •'i ■ \^ li. JF ABC Fig. 32. — Hyacinth bulbs. A, Base of a bulb. B, The base of the bulb notched for propagation. C, A bulb scooped BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 67 Fig. 33. — Hyacinth bulbs. This cut shows the natural method of producing bulbels at the base of the bulbs Each method has drawbacks. The notched method results in few bulbs (see figs. 34 and 35) of a large size in a short time; by scooping (see fig. 36) three times the number of bulbs are produced, but they are tiny and of superior vitality. Offspring of notched bulbs flower in three to four years, scooped bulbs require at least four or five. PLANTING AND CULTURE OF HYACINTH Fred de Meul- der, of Lisse, Hol- land, in the Flor- ists' Exchange for April 17, 1915, gives the following notes on the culture for propagation : Fig. 34.— The first stage of a notched bulb 68 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION "Both classes of bulbs undergo practically the same treatment in the 'nurse-room,' a place in the bulb store reserved for them and kept at a high temperature. Here they remain until after a fortnight or so — about one hundred bulbels in the case of scooped bulbs, and thirty in that of the notched ones are formed upon them. They are left until after all the other bulbs are plant- ed so as to give them the care of the nurs- ery as long as possi- ble. Then usually in the last week in Octo- ber or the first week in November they, too, are taken to the fields and planted. The ground has been carefully prepared for their reception; it has been well dug up and liberally dressed with well-rotted cow-dung earher in the year. This kind of fertihzer is preferred to the others, such as lime, etc., both because it is more economical and because it is less harmful to the Hyacinth, whose extremely sensitive bulb would be burned up by lime or similar substances. Hyacinths cannot be set in the same ground except at two-year intervals, or at one-year intervals if the soil has been turned up from a much greater depth. Both Tulips and Hyacinths thrive on a piece of ground if it is used for each of them in alternate years, and this is what is usually done. Taken to the field, the bulbs are set in the ground at a depth of about five inches, and an area of about five square inches is allowed for each. The flower beds, one of which stretches almost the entire length of the field, are so disposed that each shall be three feet wide and that a path one foot wide shall be left between them. When all is ready the whole field is covered with about ten inches of hay or straw; a necessary precaution, for the Hyacinth is very susceptible to the cold. The fields lie thus till Spring, Fig. 35 — A notched Hyacinth bulb. The bulbels are few but larger than those obtained when bulbs are scooped (See page 67) BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 69 and then with the sun and rain the leaves, and later the flowers, appear. Generally the first Sunday in April, if the weather has been fine, or the second if it has not, finds the fields in bloom. Then it would be hard to find a more beautiful place on earth than this stretch of thirty miles from Haarlem to Leiden. The natives are not less appreciative of the attraction than the stranger. On this Sunday the highway from Hillegom to Leiden is one mass of people on foot, on bicycles, in motors, carriages and trams The great concern of the people to see the annual flower show is better understood when we know that this one day is probably the only chance they have to visit it. The flowers are not more attractive to the people than to the grower, but his love of beauty must yield to his business interests, so the flowers are cut off to allow the additional nourish- menji thus gained to go to the bulb. The chpping usually takes place ten days after the flowers appear. The bulbs now begin to enlarge and are left to grow dur- ing April and May. About the middle of May, with fair warm weather, the leaves turn yellow, a sign that the bulb is ma- tured and can be taken out. Wet, cold, weather at this time of the year retards the ripening process, bringing the harvest up to June. In the event of a protracted spell of wet and cold, some method of hastening the bulbs to maturity must be resorted to. One recently adopted is to remove the bulbs from the ground before they have reached the proper stage and keep them in a warehouse at the temperature of fine Summer weather. Forced in this manner they mature at the proper time and it is thus possible to meet the demands of those Fig. 36. — A scooped Hyacinth bulb. Compare the great number of small bulbels produced by this method with those produced by notching (See page 67) 70 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 37. — Tulip propagation. It is the natural method of propagation for tulips to send out bulbels at their base (See page 71) customers who want flowers in bloom at Christmas. Only with Hyacinths was this procedure found impracticable; but with Tulips it gave indifferent results. HARVESTING When the bulbs are taken up from the ground the new bulbels are found to have grown to the size of an acorn; the mother bulb has almost entirely disap- peared, having served as food for her numerous prog- eny. These are now taken to the warehouses and placed on laths to dry. This is merely a matter of plenty of air and the ordin- ary Summer temperature. This is also the case with the old bulbs of the 'notched' class. The opin- ion prevalent in some quarters that it is necessary to apply absorbent material to all the bulbs after treat- ment experience has shown to be without foundation. Only in the case of 'scooped' bulbs have we found the application of an absorbent at all neces- Fig. 38. — Bulblets. The sketch shows a Lily stem upon^which small bulbs, or bulblets, are produced (See page 71) sary. The cleaning of the BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 71 bulbels, a process always attended with a good deal of danger of damaging them, is deferred till the Fall, when any injury the tender plants might sustain will be speedily healed by the earth wherein they are soon after placed. Set in the ground again in October, the new bulbs bear leaves in the following Spring. The second year those of the 'notched' class flower, while the others want still another season." NARCISSUS AND TULIP PROPAGATION Most Narcissus and Tuhp propagation must be left entirely to nature (see fig. 37); no cutting of the bulbs can be done to increase the production. Left to themselves each bulb produces tlijee or four bulbels, of which two or three develop to good size, and the old bulb disappears. The following Autumn the young bulbs are taken up, cleaned, and replanted. It thus takes two years to get Narcissus and Tulip bulbs. BULBLETS Certain bulbous plants, as the Tiger Lily, Dentaria bulbifera, certain Ferns, Ranunculus Ficaria, and the Multipher or Potato Onion, produce small bulbs in the axils of their leaves above ground. These are bulblets. (See fig. 38.) They can be planted inmiedi- ately after ripening and will multiply the particular plant true to variety. EASTER LILY PROPAGATION , Easter Lilies have been propagated for many years by the rooting of bulb scales and by the natural division of the bulbs, but recently a method of raising Easter Lihes from seed (see page 39) is strongly advocated as a method by which certain diseases may be avoided. With rare or unusual species of bulbs there is still an advantage in propagating by bulb scales. The scales are treated like cuttings and are placed in benches of sand or a sandy loam at a temperature between 45 degrees and 60 degrees; small bulbels will be produced. Some tender sorts need bottom heat. Division is the commonest method, as it is the natural tendency of Easter Lily bulbs to divide after flowering. 72 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION CORMS Corms are much shortened rhizomes or thickened bases of stems, usually subterranean, in which food is stored. A corm differs from a bulb in that the greater share of the bulk of a bulb is not stem, but bulb scales, which are really thickened bases of leaves, the stem being merely a much-flattened plate from which root and bulb scales arise. Corms also are covered with shells, or scales, but these are scarious, or dried, and are called husks, or tunics. These scales are bases of leaves, but are not thickened as they are in bulbs. Botanically considered, a bud or the poten- tiality for a bud exists in the axils of all leaves. There should be Fig. 39. — Seedling Easter Lily. This seedling Lily is in its second year and has thirty- six buds and flowers. It was raised by Geo. W. Oliver' BULBS - LAYEBS - DIVISIONS 73 Fig. 40. — Gladiolus corm. The sketch shows the method of producing new corms above the old one. Between the two corms small corms, cormels or spawn, are produced (See page 74) one bud for each layer of tunics or husks. Because of the man- ner of growth of the Gladiolus, a cormous plant, which is in one plane, these buds should have an opposite arrangement (see fig. 41), thus causing them to He in one straight fine through the center of the corm. With the Gladiolus, it takes from one to four years, accord- ing to the variety, for a seed- hng to produce a corm of blooming size. Every stem that makes vigorous growth has at its base a corm. Each corm has sev- eral buds, of which each one that grows will produce a new corm on top of the one planted. Seven Gladiolus bulbs of blooming size in one season has been reported. In this way the grower's stock is not only reproduced each season, but also rapidly increased, provided good soil and proper cultivation are given. The vigor and the thickness of a corm depend much on the proper maturing of foliage. If in cutting the spike Httle vegetative growth is left above the soil, only small quantities of food can be manufactured by these abbre- viated leaves, and the base of the stem, or corm, in which the food is stored, suffers. The failure to carry over stock is often due to cutting the flower stems near the surface of the soil, the corms thus being able to make little or no development The suggestion, then, is that if one wants an annual renewal of corms, care must be exercised to leave Fig. 41. — Gladiolus corm from which the tunic has been removed. Note the scars due to the bases of the old leaves. The buds are in a straight line, and there is one bud for each ring on the corm. Sketch taken from Cornell Extension Bulletin No. 10 74 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 42. — Tuber of Jerusalem Artichoke. Note that the eyes, unlike those of the Dahlia, are on the tuber (See page 75) sufficient foliage after cutting the spike. It is the general opinion that corms which have been al- lowed to bloom every year for three or four years become thinner and thinner. Soon after the base of the growing stem of the Gladiolus has begun to thicken, small corms are found to have formed be- tween the old and the new corm. These are properly called cormels. (See fig. 40.) They are covered with a hard shell, thus differing from seedling Gladioli of the same size, which have a covering more like a husk, composed of the dried bases of the previous season's leaves. A more rapid method of multiplying new varieties is to cut the corm into several pieces so that each piece has one or more eyes. Other examples of corms are Crocus, Cyclamen, Antholyza, Col- chicum. Arum, Ari isnia, Ixia, Montbretia, Morsea, Sparaxis, Tigridia, Watsoriia (For additional list see page 141). TUBERS AND TUBEROUS ROOTS Certain plants produce thickened portions of their stems beneath the soil. These are tubers. Tuberous roots differ from tubers in that tViprA «rp nn pvp« ^^S- '^'^- — Tuberous roots of Dahlia. Note that the uieic ctie iiu c;yes sprouts start at the base of the old stem and not on the from which growth tuber itself. The line marked C-C shows how the Dahlia rpi p should be divided, each new plant having a piece of starts. 1 lie eyes Ot the parent stem, a tuber and a sprout BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 75 the tuberous roots are at the base of the old flowering stem. Ex- amples of tubers are: Potatoes, Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) (see fig. 42), Begonia Evansiana. Tuberous roots are found in the following plants: Dahlia (see fig. 43), Tuberous Begonia, Boussingaultia, Caladium, Hemerocallis Dumorlieri and Poison Hemlock. m Fig. 44. -Offsets of Anthericum. Note how these plantlets are produced upon pendu- lous stems. (From Milady's House Plants) (See page 76) PROPAGATION OF DAHLIAS The tubers should be started about April 1st in a warm, fight room, merely placing them in a shallow box of sand or fight soil. When the young shoots begin to show, they should be so cut that one or two eyes are allowed to remain on each piece; the eyes start from the collar between the old stem and tuber (See figs 20 and 43.) 76 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION PROPAGATION OF FANCY LEAF CALADIUMS Small tubers started in February will be large by September, when they should be removed from the soil and stored in sand» When ready for propagation they should be cut into good size pieces and covered with powdered charcoal. They are then placed on a bench in sphagnum and sand where they can root nicely, before potting in a mixture of loam and leaf mold. This treatment apphes to Gloxinias and Tuberous-rooted Begonias, but the latter two are not cut to pieces. OFFSETS Certain plants produce small plantlets, rosettes from the parent plant which, if allowed to strike the soil, will root readily. These are often designated as offsets. Famihar examples of offsets are those found with Cotyledon, the Hen-and-Chickens, Anthericum (see fig. 44), Marica, (Enothera and Boltonia. SUCKERS Suckers are unexpected shoots from the base of plants. The formation is frequently encouraged by injury to the roots of a plant. Familiar examples of trees which sucker are: Sassafras , Asimina, many of the fruits, Ailanthus and others. When the roots are not injured there is little trouble with suckers. Some propa- gators hold that plants grown from suckers are incHned to sucker later in the new plant. The fruiting of the Pineapple, Ananas, is followed by the produc- tion of suckers which are removed and rooted in sand. The Banana is propagated almost entirely by suckers. Plants which sucker are easily propagated by root cuttings (see page 63^. A number of conservatory plants, such as Agave, Caladiuniy Billbergia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Anthuriuiriy Pandanus, are readily propagated from suckers broken from the plants and potted in small pots plunged in a Wardian case (see p. 52). LAYERS Propagation by layers consists in rooting a portion of the plant without detaching it from the parent plant. Some plants may be propagated by this method when cuttings fail. Many propagate themselves naturally by this method, the branches coming in BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 77 contact with the earth, producing roots. Creeping Jenny, Boston Ferns, Grapes, Sedums, Tomatoes, and many other plants take root at the nodes, or eyes, very readily. In the case of many other plants roots easily form when a branch is bent down and covered with earth. This is simple layerage. It is advantageous to peg the branches in some manner and to cut the stem partially through (see fig. 45) at the point where roots are pre- ferred . Black Raspberrie s root easily when the tips of their bran- ches are buried (see fig. 46). This latter is known as tip layering. After the layers have rooted they are severed from the parent plants. When the branch of a plant is covered with soil at a number of points, the term serpentine, or compound layering, is appHed. It is used very advantageously with vines. When nearly the whole branch is covered, the process is called Fig. 45. — Simple layering. Note how the branch is bent down ; a slit has been cut in the stem at a and held open by a pebble, b; a peg, c, holds the layered branch firmly in the soil; and the stake, d, keeps it upright. Note how the roots have formed Fig. 46. — ^Tip Layering a Raspberry. The shoots have been bent_ down and covered with soil; each one has rooted and produced a young plantlet, which may be severed and grown separately 78 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION A B C Fig. 47. — Air layers. A, A branch notched preparatory to air layerage. B, A Chinese layer, the notch has been covered with a ball of moist sphagnum moss. C, A pot layer; a pot filled with moss or sand has been used instead of just a ball of moss (See page 78) continuous layerage. This method is confined to a few shrubs and vines which grow readily from buds even though they are covered with earth. With other plants whose branches cannot be bent down to the earth, some method of air or pot layerage is used. Ordinary flower pots are spht in two pieces (see fig. 47, C) and placed around a branch. The pot is tied together, an incision is made in the bark and stem inside the pot and the pot filled with sphagnum moss or soil. This method is successfully used on Dracaenas and Crotons when they become too tall and lose their lower leaves. The pot is not necessary; many plants are layered by merely tying a ball of sphagnum moss around the stem which as before, is injured. Such layers are called Chinese layers (see fig. 47, A and B). So soon as roots form, the top is removed and potted. PREPARING PLANTS FOR LAYERING Early Spring is the time to prepare for layering. Stock to be layered should be growing with ample room betweenjthe plants, to permit of the shoots being layered all around them, and still leaving room for cultivating between them. The soil should be con- BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 7J sidered: it should not be heavy, but rather of a Kght nature, making work easy for the operators; the layers, too, root more freely in light, sandy soil than in any other kind. Having the plants at a proper distance apart, and the soil prepared the next thing is to prune the plants, , to cause them to make some young, strong shoots for layering. These shoots should, preferably, always be of the same season's growth, though older ones will root. If not already pruned, do it before growth starts, cutting the plants down as near the ground as possible, having in mind that the shoots anticipated must be layered under the surface, so the nearer they are to the ground the better; layering should commence as soon as the shoots are of sufficient length to permit of it. Fig. 48. — Rubus propagation. Shows method of increase Sketch by George W. Oliver 80 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 49. — Mound layer of Gooseberry. Note that the shoots have been cut back close to the soil previous to mounding the soil about the plants; each shoot is rooting nicely Quinces are propagated by this method. MOUND LAYERS Plants with rather stiff branches which can hardly be bent down and covered with soil are mound layered. By this method the plants are cut back very severely and this will cause the production of a great number of branches. These are covered with soil which will cause each branch to root. (See When the pro- completed, the are divided. fi to cess 49.) is plants Gooseberries and RUNNERS Certain plants, such as the Strawberry (see fig 50), produce runners, or little plantlets, upon speciahzed branches. These are ^k readily propa- '^ — gated by separ- ation from the —SS^ and pottmg m- <^^^^i to 2 inch or 23/2 inch pots. In the Strawberry Fig. 50. — Strawberry runners patch there Is frequently a succession of these new plants started, but for the best results the first runners to be produced from the plants should be trained into pots sunk into the soil. RHIZOMES A rhizome, imlike a root, is an underground stem. In other words, rhizomes bear roots and have prominent leaf buds or eyes. (See figs. 51 and 52.) BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 81 Fig. 51. — Portion of German Iris Rhizome. Between the leaf shoots is shown the scar left by the flowering stem. Each shoot might be separated as an independent plant Divisions of a root stock or rhizome are safely planted vertically when it is known which is the upper end, other- wise, most divisions should be placed in the soil horizontally. Many of our outdoor plants which bear rhizomes are best propagated by taking pieces which bear one or two eyes. For examples see under Bulb- ous Plants and Their Propaga- tion, page 141. CONSERVATORY PLANTS Many conservatory plants are propagated by divisions of a rhizome. Some examples are : Acanthus. Divide in Spring or early Au- tumn. Aglaonema. The short rhizomes when divided are placed in sand to root. Alocasia. Usually in March. Keep close, moist and warm. Use War- dian case. Fig. 52. — Primula Sieboldii. This sketch is of the Spring stage showing the rhizome COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Anthurium. Place divisions in peat, sphagnum moss and sand, in small pots plunged in Wardian case, at temperature of 75° to 80° with bottom heat. Propagated in Midwinter. Arum. Division of rhizome in Spring. Aspidistra. Wash out old soil before growth starts and divide up rhizomes; place in propagating bench of sand to root, then pot. Calathea. (See Aspidistra.) Calla. (Not Richardia.) (See Anthurium.) Canna. The rhizomes are rather tuberous. Divide and pot in March. BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS 83 CoNVALLARiA. (See Lily of the Valley.) Fatsia papyrifera. Best in Spring. Ferns. (See page P. 123.) Lily of the Valley. (These rhizomes are called pips.) Divide. Grow in sand with good bottom heat and shade. Maranta. (See Aspidistra.) (See fig. 53.) MoNSTERA. Each piece should have several joints. Nelumbium. Aquatic. Cut up rhizome and anchor to soil with a stone. NYMPH.EA. Aquatic. (See Nelumbium.) RiCHARDiA. (Galla Lily) Dry off plants in summer. Pot in early Fall, removing offshoot s which, when potted several together in a pot, of- ten bloom the first or second year. DIVISION OF PERENNIALS One of the simplest methods of propagation is that of division. With a large knife or spade huge clumps are cut into convenient sizes for replanting. Certain very rampant growers get very much choked after growing in one place for any length of time. Examples of perennials which require almost annual propagation are : Michael- mas Daisy, Achillea ptarmica and millifolium roseum, Helianthus, Sedum, some Veronicas, Chrysanthemums, (Enothera, and all perennials which sucker badly should be moved and divided every year Artemisia, BoUonia, Campanula, Geum, Funkia, Doronicum, Armeria and Thalicirum are all propagated by division. Certain perennials, such as Peonies and Fritillaria, should not be moved often; they must be thoroughly established in order to bloom properly Peonies should be moved every six or seven years. Phlox every four years and Iris every three years. Boxwood can easily be separated by tearing to pieces old dwarf plants; the divisions are replanted to make a tiny hedge. A new plant, the Box-barberry may prove a good substitute for the Box, as it is a low growing form of Berber is Thunbergii. CHAPTER IV GRAFTAGE Graftage Defined — Objects — Results — Limits — So-called Graft Hybrids — Characteristics of a Stock — Selection of Wood for Cions — Time to Graft — Important Points — Whip Grafting — Root — Cleft — Veneer — Side — Splice — Saddle Graft — Rridge — Crown — Terminal Bud — Budding — Time to Bud — Shield Budding — Patch — H Budding — Inarching — Seedling Inarch — Top Grafting — Double Working — Wax — Applying Wax — Cactus Grafting. TERMS DEFINED THE term graftage is now accepted to include both grafting and budding. The real difference between these two processes is slight. Budding is inserting a single bud into the growing wood of a plant; grafting, merely consists in using a twig of several buds instead of a single bud. Also included under graftage is the process of inarching, or grafting by approach. The term cion (often spelled scion) is used to designate the portion of one plant which is inserted upon another plant, called the stock. The stock is usually rooted so that it may gather the nourishment from the soil and furnish it to the cion. It must be remembered that even though the stock and cion are in intimate union, each retains its own individuality. The tissues of bark and wood of each never mix, they merely knit to- gether. Most dicotyledonous plants, as Apples, Legumes, Evergreens, Cacti, Composites, Crucifers and members of the Potato family, have been grafted. Monocotyledonous plants, as Lihes, Orchids, Grasses, Irises, and the Aroids, have never been grafted for com- mercial purposes, because their parts are not adapted for the essen- tial close union. 84 GRAFTAGE 85 OBJECTS OF GRAFTING The reasons for grafting plants are well set forth by Baltet* as follows: "The object of grafting is — 1. To change the character of a plant, by modifying the wood, the foliage or the fruit which it was required to produce. 2. To excite the development of branches, flowers, or fruit on the parts of a tree where they are deficient. 3. To restore a defective or exhausted tree by transfusion of the fresh sap of a vigorous kind. 4 To bring together on the same stem the two sexes of monoe- ciousf plants, in order to facihtate their reproduction. 5. To preserve and propagate a great number of woody or herbaceous plants for use or ornament, which could not be repro- duced by any other means of multiphcation." THE RESULTS OF GRAFTING After the cion grows it produces its leaf, flower, or "fruit after its kind." Shoots from below the point of union continue to produce their own characteristic leaves, flowers and fruits. But grafting hardly ever materially changes the quahties of the characteristic stock and cion. Dr. L. H. Bailey t has summarized a few efl'ects of grafting which are of interest. Dwarfing. Grafting may alter the stature of a plant. It is a common method of dwarfing plants. The pear is dwarfed by grafting on Quince or on the Apple by working on the Paradise Apple stock. Adapting varieties to adverse soil Grafting may be the means of adapting plants to adverse soils. Some varieties of Plums are worked on the Peach, which causes them to thrive in a sandy soil. Roses when grafted on Manetti stock tolerate sandier soils. Adapting plants to adverse climate. Grafting may be the means of adapting plants to adverse climate. The stock may mature sooner and cause a relatively earher maturity of the cion, or the stock may actually impede the flow of sap and cause earher maturity. The Oldenburg and other Russian Apples are used as stocks, because the early maturing causes the ripening of the wood of * Baltet, Chas. The Art of Grafting and Budding, p. 2. t It would seem that Baltet might have included dioecious as well as moncBcious. Mo- noecious plants have flowers bearing only one sex, but both kinds of flowers, on one plant; dioecious plants have the separate sexes on difi"erent plants. JFrom Garden and Forest, Feb. 26, 1890. The above excerpt from this paper is much changed, but the main facts are found in the article cited. 86 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION the cion, which consequently is less injured by adverse Winter conditions Correcting poor habit. Grafting may correct a poor habit. Canada Red Apples, which are notably poorly shaped trees, are improved by top working upon some good grower. Rapid method of testing seedlings. Grafting often hastens fruiting and flowering. Seedlings which require a long time to attain the age for flowering or fruiting are frequently budded or grafted upon a mature tree. (See Inarching, p. 102). This method saves years of waiting for, perhaps, an inferior fruit. With the Pear it often takes eight to ten years before the seedHng will bear fruit; but when budded. Pears may be produced in two years. Even the bud from a seedhng, therefore, becomes a part of the tree and the vigorous growth of its first year may be expected to produce, flower and fruit buds. Furthermore, it is known that cions from young trees bear fruit more readily when inserted in old trees, than when set in young ones. In France this system, by which a great number of excellent Pear varieties have been introduced, has been com- monly practiced. There is keen pleasure in hybridizing fruits, raising the seedhngs and awaiting the results of the labor. Modifying season of ripening of fruit. Grafting will often alter the season of ripening of fruit, by causing a diff'erence in time of maturity of wood in stock and cion. Pears of the variety Winter Nehs keep better when grafted on Bloodgood stock than when grown on Flemish Beauty. Twenty Ounce Apples ripen earlier than normally when grafted on Early Harvest. Increasing fruitfulness. The increase in fruitfulness of some varieties may be due to better adaptation to chmatic and soil conditions. Many instances of increase in fruitfulness, by grafting, can be given. Delaying the running ou of varieties. Grafting, rather than growing plants from cuttings, seems to delay the degeneration of varieties of certain Camellias and Roses. Increasing size of fruit. Certain Pears when grown on the Quince are much increased in size. Modifying cohr. Grafting often causes a change in the color of flower, foKage and fruit. Many of the cases of apparent diff'er- ence are due to enviromnental influences rather than grafting. Prunus Pissardi is deeper in the color of the foHage, when grafted on P. americana, than upon P domestica. Influencing flavor of fruit. Grafting may appreciably influence flavor. Angouleme Pears are improved in flavor when worked upon the Quince. GRAFTAGE 87 LIMITS OF GRAFTING The solution of the problem as to just which plants may be grafted upon each other has hardly been explored. Certain species graft with perfect ease, certain other species in the same genus are united with difficulty. Peaches do not bud readily on the Apricot, but both the Peach and the Apricot may be budded on the Plum Apparent similarities are confusing. The Horsechestnut cannot be budded on the Oak, but the edible Chestnut may be so united. Botanically, the Chestnut and the Oak are of one family. Plants belonging to different famihes cannot be grafted. It is, however, possible to have the Mountain Ash, the European Quince, the Japanese Quince, the June Berry, the Crab Apple, the Pear, the Medlar and the Cotoneaster all in bloom on one Thorn Apple or Crataegus tree. All of these plants belong to the Rose family. Absurd statements concerning graftage have continually been made by those persons who have allowed their imaginations to rule their writings. Even Virgil speaks of Apples growing on Plum trees ; a core fruit on a stone fruit. We beheve such things impossible. Martial speaks of the Cherry on the Poplar. Madame de Genlis claims to have grafted the Rose on the Black Currant, to obtain black Roses. Only last year a prominent New York newspaper pubhshed with seeming sincerity the account of a table d'hote tree which, by grafting, grew Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Potatoes, Apples, and a dozen other crops on one specimen. It was advised for planting in the small backyard. SO-CALLED GRAFT HYBRIDS In 1826, at Vitry, France, M. Adami grafted Cytisus purpureas upon Laburnum vulgare, and there came from the point of union a branch which was hybrid in nature. It bore pink, yellow and purple flowers. Yellow flowers are characteristic of Laburnum vulgare, and purple flowers are borne by C. purpureus, but the pink is truly hybrid. The wood and foHage accompanying each type of flower followed the characteristics of the parent from which the flower came. This graft was propagated and is known as Cytisus Adami. Biologists are not wilHng to call this a graft hybrid, how- ever, for they point out that the tissues are not hybrid. The outer tissues of C. Adami are distinctly A. purpureus and the inner Laburnum vulgare. Many other examples of so-caUed graft hybrids have been found. In 1914, D. Bois in Revue Horticole, reported the case of a Pear grafted on a Quince, which sent out below the graft two opposite branches; one being of the Quince growth, the other difl'ered widely 88 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION irotn both the Pear and Quince. It was called Pyrocydonia Winck- leri* It is reported that this variation is propagated true to type. The settlement of the question whether such growths are truly hybrid is important, for if they are, sexual and asexual reproduc- tion are identical. Hybrids are supposed to occur only upon the union of the sex cells, not the structural cells, of a plant. CHARACTERISTICS OF AN IDEAL STOCK A good stock for budding or grafting should be: 1. Hardy, if possible, so that the plants may hve through the Winter. 2. Easily multipHed; simply and rapidly. 3. Cheap to obtain; many stocks are grown from seeds gathered from the wild. 4. Free from susceptibihty to pests and diseases. Certain plants being very susceptible to pests are grafted for this reason. The European Grape being readily attacked by the phylloxera, a root louse, it is grafted upon the American Grape stock which is not attacked. Diseases are readily communicated from stock to cion or vice versa. 5. Easy to work; looseness of bark for budding is a prominent asset. 6 Capable of making good strong unions and unite quickly; the cion should not outgrow the stock. 7. Able to produce a good, well-balanced root system. In the case of many conmiercial plants, a small but very fibrous root sys- tem is preferred, because of the advantage of easy transplanting and later the abihty to fertihze the limited area about the plants. The long wiry roots are often the only ones produced when the seed- ling stocks are raised in a heavy soil. A loose, fibrous soil containing leaf mold will cause such trees as Hickories, Oaks, English Walnut, and Chestnut to make fibrous roots. To get a desirable root sys- tem Fullerf advises sowing nuts "in shallow pots or boxes, and in nearly pure sand, applying hquid manure as needed, to insure a vigorous growth." 8 Non-suckering Suckers are always a nuisance because they must be removed, else they will often outgrow the cion. 9. Adapted to a wide range of soils. The adaptation of a stock to both sand and clay will go toward making the success of a variety from the commercial standpoint. * Bois, D. Pyrocydonia Winckleri. Revue Horticole, Jan. 16, 1914, pp. 27-29. t Fuller, A. S. The Propagation of Plants, p. 233. GRAFTAGE 8» 10. Straight stocks for weepers and standards. For grafting this class of plants, a crooked stock is objectionable. During the Winter or early Spring cut down the plants and encourage one shoot only to grow. Cut out the weaker ones. In growing stocks for weepers the growth of a leader is not stopped, for side shoots are not wanted. Stocks for standards can often be stopped in growth after reaching the proper height or they can be pruned in order to form a head the same season. SELECTION OF AVOOD FOR CIONS The material for making cions should be collected, preferably in the Midwinter, and is best stored in moist sand or sawdust and kept cool. The wood may, however, be gathered any time before the buds start in the Spring. For making cions the strong, vigorous wood of the previous season's growth should be chosen which have pwlp matured buds on each branch. TIME TO GRAFT Grafting is usually done when the buds of the stock are be- ginning to swell, which indicates that the sap is now active. As the different trees and shrubs vegetate at various times in the nursery there is a well-planned succession of grafting for the various species of plants. THE IMPORTANT POINTS IN ALL GRAFTING Plants which can be grafted have a layer of bark which covers the wood. Usually this bark, at least on the young branches, will peel from the wood. It is absolutely essential that the tissue between the bark and the wood of both stock and cion be in contact. This layer is known as the cambium layer. It has the abihty to grow wood tissue from its inner side and bark from the outer; by such knitting together the tissues heal nicely. After the graft is made, especially in outdoor work, the whole area of cut surface in stock and cion must be waxed over to check evaporation from the tissues. Grafts may be made: (1) upon seedhngs, a method especially used in propagating horticultural varieties of ornamental trees and shrubs. (2) upon young trees as with Apples, and other fruits; (3) upon the trunk and branches of older trees; (4) upon roots; or. (5) upon the crown of the plant WHIP OR TONGUE GRAFTING Whip grafting is largely used when grafting small stocks. Both the stock and cion are cut diagonally; this cut should be long and 90 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION straight. A vertical cut is then made in both. Practice will show that the cut must be made a trifle to one side of the diagonal cut. The two parts are fitted together as shown in the cut (fig. 54). Care must be taken to have the cam- bium layers in contact. If the stock is larger in diameter than the cion, the cion must be placed at one side. The union is then wrapped with waxed string or raffia. The waxed string used is No. 18 knitting cotton. The balls are soaked Fig. 54. — Whip or tongue grafting. A, Stock and cion properly cut. B, The parts fitted together and wrapped with waxed string in melted grafting wax and laid away to dry. This string is just weak enough to be broken by the hands. In whip-grafting Pears, it seems best to wax the grafts rather than use the string. In order to harden the wax quickly the grafts are dropped in a pail of water. Fi; 55. —Whip graft- ing on roots. The stock and cion are fre- quently made longer than shown in cut (See page 91) GRAFTAGE 91 Fig. 56.— Cions for cleft graft- ing (See page 92) ROOT GRAFTING The whip or tongue is the most common method of root grafting Apples. The stocks are dug and stored in the Autumn and grafted in January or February. Whole roots may be used, grafting at the crown Sometimes each root is cut into two or three pieces, in which case two or three grafts may be made (see fig. 55). The grafts are packed in moist sand or sawdust and stored in a cool cellar, where during the Winter the grafts will callus. Care is taken to label the grafts which are tied together in bundles of 100. As soon as the soil can be worked in the Spring the grafts are dibbled out in rows, so that the top bud is just above the surface of the soil. For extensive plantings, furrows seven or eight inches deep are frequently turned, the grafts are set in the row and the soil thrown back and firmed, either by hand, with tamps or by a machine with obhque wheels which presses the soil about the grafts. CLEFT GRAFTING Cleft grafting consists in splitt- ing a stock after it has been cut off perfectly even and inserting one or two cions. The cions should be wedge-shaped (see fig. 56) and of equal size. In cutting the wedge great care is necessary in order to have both sides straight, not lopsided nor scooped out. The lowest bud on the cion is best placed when it^is just above the cut sides of the wedge. A special tool may be used to make the cleft and hold it open Fig. 57. — Cleft grafting. A, Use of grafting tool for making cleft. B, Inserting cion 92 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION while the cions are being inserted (see fig. 57). Cleft grafting is used principally when the stocks are over one inch in diameter, making it possible to insert two cions. Should both grow, the weaker is cut out at the end of the first year. As in all grafting, the cambiums of both should be in con- tact. To insure this the cions should be inserted a trifle diagonally (see fig. 58-A). As soon as the graft is made, all cut surfaces must be covered with wax (see fig. 58-B); even place a slight dab at the ends of the cions. The Cacti are easily cleft grafted. Pereskia (see fig. 80) and Cereus are the common stocks for such Cacti as Epiphyllum, which is very drooping (see pp. 109-110). Peony roots may be cleft grafted, especially Paeonia Moutan, which is grafted either on the herbaceous or the shrubby stock. Bind the graft with copper wire; raifia decays before the union takes place. 58.— Cleft grafting, completed graft. B , Properly waxed VENEER GRAFTING Veneer grafting (see fig. 59) is practiced mostly in the greenhouse upon ornamentals. The graft is very simply made, consisting merely of cutting a chip from the stock and fitting a cion to it. In the greenhouse a ball of moss around the union is sufficient. When used out of doors the cut edges must be thoroughly waxed. The stock need not be headed back until the cion is growing nicely. Cer- tain of the plants which are more diffi- cult to graft will best be placed in a Ward- a b c ian case, or grafting Fig. 59.— Veneer grafting. A, The stock notched. frame, where the at- ^* ^^^ """ '"' '° ^' togethe?' ^' ^*°'^ ^""^ "°° GRAFTAGE 93 mosphere can be confined. Many of the evergreens and Rhododen- drons are propagated by this method. SIDE GRAFTING Very closely resembling the veneer graft is the side graft. A diagonal cut is made in the stock, which should be long. Note the sketch (fig. 60), which shows how the cion is made and inserted into this cut. Plants by this method may be propagated either when in full growth or when dormant. Waxing is necessary out of doors; tying with waxed string indoors holds the cion in place. If the stock is headed back shghtly. the growth will be encouraged. Fig. 60. — Side grafting the Rose. The cut in the stock should not be so nearly- through the stem and is best made longer and more acutely than shown in the sketch SPLICE GRAFTING An exceedingly simple form of grafting is the spKce graft. Stock and cion are cut with a long diagonal cut as for the whip graft. The two parts are tied together without further fitting, although the stock and cion should be approximately the same size. This method is used on Roses (see page 136) and Cacti (see fig. 61), and is only successful in the greenhouse. 94 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 61. -Splice grafting Pereskia Cactus (See page 93) SADDLE GRAFT In making the saddle graft the stock is cut in the form of a wedge. The cion may either have a section removed to fit over the wedge or it may be merely spht upward (see fig. 62). This method is success- fully employed in graft- ing: Rhododendrons. BRIDGE GRAFTING When trees are gir- dled, or nearly so, the wound may be encour- aged to heal and the sap caused to flow, by bridging the injury by cions made in the form of a wedge at each end and fitted into V-shaped cuts in the bark. A tack holds the cion in place, but the exposed cut areas must be waxed. (See fig. 63.) This method has been widely used by the French in restoring mutilated fruit trees in France. "Throughout the entire district devastated by the Germans there were thousands of trees that the close pursuit of the French kept the Germans from having time completely to cut down. Instead, the 'kultured' tree-killers cut off* a circle of bark around the trunk of the tree, which with a few days' exposure to the sun would be sufficient to kill Peach, Plmn, Apple, Apri- cot, and Cherry trees that had been half a century attaining their actual productiveness. "So great was the number of trees that had to be dressed this way that the entire I n m m Fig. 62. — Saddle^grafting available supply of grafting preparation was quickly ex- hausted. Tar was then used as a substitute, and, finally GRAFTAGE 95 loamy clay. Substitutes for surgical bandages also had to be found, and in the end it was discovered that moss twisted and tied about the dressed wound was as effective as any- thing else."* CROWN GRAFTING The crown graft is a slight modification of the cleft graft. In this case the stock is not split, but the cions are cut various shapes and fitted into lEe cuts in the stock. The cions may be tapered as in the cleft graft or they may be cut off straight at the base as in fig. 64 . Another kind of crown graft is made by removing triangular chips from the stock and using a cion to fit. A special inlaying tool is used for the purpose. (See fig. 65.) Fig. 64. — Veneer crown grafting. This is a modifi- cation of the crown graft (After Baltet) 63. — Bridge grafting. Note how the cions are cut to fit into v-shaped incisions in the bark (See page 94) Crown grafting is used extensively upon very large trees which have been cut down. Many cions may be inserted. They must be tied and waxed in place. To prevent transpiration it will be best to cover the whole stump with wax paper. The unions will not be very strong and some stake should be pro- vided at the start, for, *Wood, Henry. From an article reported in the Literary Digest from the Westminster Gazette (London). 96 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION when the cion grows, little surface should be exposed to the wind. In the areas devas- tated by the Germans in the war where trees have been cut down, the French are crown graft- ing the trees. Regard- ing this work we find re- ported in the Literary Digest the following com- ment from V Illustration (Paris, April 28, 1917): "The work of repara- tion was taken up in time, and Nature was given a chance to act. When the bark of the oldest trees was too deeply grooved to admit the passage of young sap, the old trees were elim- inated, and trunks not exceeding 25 centimeters in diameter were left to send up shoots. Four or five of the most vigorous of the shoots will be used for grafting-slips next year. Some of the trunks saved have been grafted even with the ground when planted, so the new growths, springing from the trunks at a height of 80 centimeters, will bear, above the graft, exactly the same kind of fruit that the tree bore at first. Other trees not the issue of grafts, but seedlings, whose bark has not been roughened by age, are expected to recuperate very rapidly. When the mutilated tree did not measure more than 20 centi- meters in diameter the 'crowning' method has been used. This means that the trunk has been sawed in a slightly oblique direction to facilitate the course of the rain (fig. 66, a), and then from three to six grafting-shps have been inserted all around the trunk, between the bark and the wood. For use by the 'crowning' method, the grafting-sHps are prepared as shown in figs. 66, b and c, and set in 8 or 10 centimeters apart, the space varying according to the diameter of the trunk (fig. 66, d). When set in place, the graft- slips are ligatured, and the whole — ^wound, bark, and ligature — Fig. 65. — Inlayed crown grafting. It is well to have a special inlaying knife for cutting this sort of a crown graft but it can be made without one. The cion is cut with a triangular face with a notch which will act as a support upon the stock. By placing the cion upon the stock the section of wood can be marked with a knife .and easily removed (After Baltet) (See page 95) GRAFTAGE 97 carefully covered with grafting wax. The slips (which must be in a state of complete rest) will be found in France growing in a crown around the top of the mutilated trunk. . . ." TERMINAL BUD GRAFTING With certain plants the tip of the twig of a seedhng is spHt lengthwise through the terminal bud and the cion is inserted as in the ordinary cleft graft. This method is performed upon the Walnut and the Pine according to Baltet. This method is known as terminal bud grafting. (See fig. 67). It is best practiced indoors and is here presented in the hope that it may be a method by which some other difficult plants may be grafted. Fiof. 66. . row n grafting in war zone. (From L' I lluatratiun, Paris) (See page 96) BUDDING When the cion is merely a bud, the process is known under the specific name of budding, a term less accurate than the French term bud-grafting. The bud is usually accompanied by a small piece of bark, and generally in cutting most buds there will also be a small piece of wood. If done carefully the wood is best removed, but the buds grow fully as well without going to this trouble. The stock for budding should be in a growing condition. When to bud. The bark of the stock must peel readily. The buds must be large and plump in the axils of the leaves, because immature buds do not grow. The bud wood or bud stick should be kept in moist paper or sphagnum moss as soon as cut. Prof. U. P. Hedrick, the expert horticulturist of the Geneva Experiment Station, gives the following dates for budding: Rose, July 1 to 10; Pear, July 10 to 15; Apple, July 15 to August 1; Plum 98 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION (St. Julicn stock), July lo to August 1; Plum (Myrobalan stock), August 15 to September 1; Cherry (Mazzard), July 20 to August 1; Cherry (Mahaleb), August 20 to September 1; Quince, July 25 to August 15; Peach, August 20 to September 10. Fig. 67. — Terminal bud grafting. Pine. The tip of the stock (R) is split and cion (A) is inserted (C) (See page 97) GRAFTAGE 99 SHIELD BUDDING The simplest method of budding is known as shield budding. The buds are cut from the bud stick, holding the branch as shown in the cut (fig. G8), with the top end toward the budder. The cut is made downward and as smooth as possible. Professional budders prepare the bud stick by cutting the buds almost entirely through, allowing them to hang so that they may be removed just before inserting on the stock. The stock is best gone over several days before budding so that the weeds are removed from the base of the plants. Interfering leaves and branches are also cut out. In most nursery budding, except for weeping varieties and standards, the buds are inserted an inch and a half above the soil. With a knife a T is cut in the stock (see fig. 69); this may be right-side up or inverted. Much fs being said of late of the advantage of the inverted T; the buds may be inserted more easily and shed the water better. The edges are peeled back and the bud is inserted so that it fits flatly. Should a piece of bark protrude above the bud it may be removed. The bud is now tied firmly with raffia to keep out water; the whole cut surface, except the bud, being covered. About ten days after budding, the buds will have united to the stock and the raflia should be cut, else the young bud will be strangled. Plants budded early will often start to push a shoot,, then the top may be cut off en- tirely or it may be sawed partially through and the top bent over. Eventually, however, the top should be removed. With plants budded later the bud will remain dormant through the Winter and start in the Spring. The main rig. gs.— Cuttings buds. The sketch shoof should not ho nit until aftor shows the proper position of bud stick snooi snoum noi oe cui uniii aiier ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ r^^^ ^^^^ j^ ^^^^ ^^^_ the bud has grown in the Spring tially removed from the twig until {" r '7(\\ ready for insertion; then the bud may (.see ng. iv). be easily cut straight across 100 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION The Peach may be budded either in June or September. Regarding June budding, Joseph Mee- han writes: "Whoever pos- sesses strong Peach stocks can secure by Fall, Peach trees large enough to sell, if budded in June or early July. These would be what are called June budded Peaches in the trade. Bud- ding is done now instead of in September, and the stocks are then treated in a way to cause the buds to grow at once instead of remaining dormant until Spring, as is the case with the buds set in September. The September budding is performed by inserting \s/:] the bud near the ground, but in the June work it can be placed higher up, so as to increase the height of the tree when offered for sale. Below the height branches are wanted on a Peach tree, it is immaterial whether the part below be seedhng or what, so the bud can be placed up a foot or more, if the vigor of the stock will permit of it. The stock should be headed back to about six inches above the bud. As soon as the union of the bud is assured, strip off the fohage from the part above the bud; but do not cut the stem away until later in the season, as it well serves the purpose of a stake to which to tie the growing bud, and it is better to leave the fohage below the bud as well for awhile, cutting it away gradually as the bud advances. To strip it all off as soon as the bud starts has a weakening effect, which is soon perceived." Fig. 69. — ? hie Id budding. Showing T-shaped cut in stock; the bud and the budded tree (See page 99) ^3';;;!r);Ki«.Vf;K;.,rv. Fig. 70.— A budded seedling tree. Note that the bud at the base has started to grow. The top can now be removed PATCH BUDDING OR FLUTE BUDDING It is much more difficult to make a successful patch bud than a shield bud. The bud is cut from the branch with a square of bark and a square the GRAFT AGE 101 102 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION same size is cut from the stock (see figs. 72 and 73). The bud must fit nicely into the stock, otherwise the union is difficult. This method is used mainly with very thick barked plants and is done in late Spring. When the whole ring of bark is removed with the bud, the process is called ring or annular budding (see p. 153, fig. 95). It is merely a modification of the patch bud and is sometimes used on the Grape. The patch budded plants are treated just as are the shield budded ones. H-BUDDING The nature of the H-budding method can be readily seen from the sketch (fig. 74). An H is cut in the bark, the bud is inserted beneath the double flaps and bound with raffia. INARCHING Inarching is a method of approach grafting. It is a simple method of cutting a portion of bark from the stems of two plants (see fig. 75-A) and tying them securely together so that the cut surfaces of each may knit. The plants are. growing in both cases. There are many modifications of tliis simple method. When the plants have united one of them is cut from its root and is allowed to grow on the roots of the other. At the same time the head of the undesirable sort is removed. The parts of the plant are frequently joined by a tongue graft (see fig. 76). Beech, Birch, Maple, Larch and various evergreens are often increased in this way, whenever desirable varieties of them cannot easily be increased in any other way. When stocks are to be used in this way, it is better that they be weU estabfished in pots by potting them in March. It is still better to have them potted a year in advance. Fig. 72,— Patch budding GRAFTAGE 103 Dr. David Fairchild, in the introduction to the bulletin on the seedhng in- arch of G.W.OHver (1911),* remarks that one of the greatest drawbacks of hor- ticulture is the time re- quired to test a new variety originated from seed, and any method which shortens the time required to make such tests must appeal to everyone, whether an orig- inator of new varieties or a tester of them, as of the gf eat est value. Mr. Ohver writes: *'It was discovered by the writer that a large number of hard-wooded shrubs and trees are capable of very rapid increase when propagated by pro- cesses which may be termed the seedhng - inarch and nurse-plant methods. These methods are inexpensive and, owing to 1-- Fig. 74.~H-budding (See page 102) Fig. 73.— Patch bud of Mango. The patch bud is well adapted for budding thick barked trees their simpHcity, may be used by persons without previous ex- perience in the propa- gation of plants. By these methods the ever-increasing num- ber of plant breed- ers will be able to save much time in determining the value * The Seedling-inarch and Nurse Plant Methods of Plant Propagation, U. S. Dept. of Agri., Bur. of PI. Industry, Bull. 202 104 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION of hard-wooded plants raised by means of hybridization. They can be used in manipulating seedlings of rare trees and shrubs intended for crossing, so that each plant will bloom in a much shorter time than if left to grow on its own roots. Seedhngs of all hard-wooded plants, resulting from collections made by travelers in foreign countries, may thus be brought to the flowering stage and their value determined quickly. The most remarkable feature of the new methods lies not only in their simplicity, but also in the certainty of the unions which result. The writer has had very few unsuccessful unions and none among those classes of plants where the most suitable stocks are known and in common use. Not only is it possible to inarch a seedling a few weeks old to a large stock, but a moderate sized seedUng stock can be inarched to a shoot of a rare shrub or tree having the same diameter as the stem of the seedhng. A satisfactory union may thus be induced where other methods of a sexual propagation have invariably failed. Rose seedhngs resulting from cross- ing varieties have been inarched on Manetti stocks when the Seedlings were from three to four weeks old, and they produced maximum sized flowers long in advance of those on seedhng plants growing on their own roots. The rare Finger Lime, Citrus australasica, some- times seen in a dwarf, sickly condition in greenhouse collections, has borne fruit two years after inarching on one of its con- geners; and within nine months after flowering, hybrid seedhngs between this Citrus and a cultivated Orange were in their turn inarched on 2-year old Lemon seedhngs. Very young seedhngs of hundreds of other rare hard-wooded plants may be worked on the same or alhed species or genera, and their value determined much in advance of the time when they would flower on their own roots, or on plants obtained by Fig. 75. — Inarching. A, — The method of cutting off a slight amount of bark of both plants to be inarched. B, — The two plants tied together. (See page 102) GRAFTAGE 105 Fig. 76. — Modification of inarch. Instead of simple inarching; the two plants to be inarched may be cut with tongues which will fit together (See page 102) grafting or budding from the mature shoots of the seedlings. Hard- wooded seedhngs which need to be flowered in the shortest possible space of time, in order to determine their value, are used for inarching as soon as the first leaves attain a fairly firm texture, as, for example, in the case of the Mangosteen. But when seedlings 106 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 77. — Seedling Roses. Note that the seedlings are potted at the side of the pot in two-inch pots are used as stocks for the vegetative propagation of established varieties by uniting the stocks to small branches, then larger seedUngs are used, as for example, in the case of the Mango.** INARCHING ROSE SEEDLINGS "Seedhngs of some of the Rose groups, resulting from crossing distinct varieties or otherwise, take more than one season to pro- duce flowers of maximum size to enable the breeder to judge of their merits. They take much longer to develop when budded on Manetti or other stocks, because in that case a considerable time has to elapse before the growth of the seedling is strong enough to give buds and wood fit for propagation by budding or by grafting. Rose seedlings three to four weeks old, or after the fu-st few character leaves are developed, lend themselves very readily to the seedling- inarch method of propagation. Tea and Hybrid Tea seedhng Roses will give flowers of maximum size very quickly after the tiny seedhngs are inarched to strong-growing Manetti or other stocks, thereby saving much time in preliminary tests. The operation of inarching is simphfied if each seedhng is pricked off into a 2-inch pot (fig. 77) shortly after the cotyledons are developed. The seedhng should be placed as near the rim as possible. In two or three weeks the seedhng makes suflicient growth to be removed from the pot, when a little fresh soil is held in place around the root by a piece of cloth about 5 inches square (fig. 78). The baU con- taining the roots of the seedhng is secured to the stock, the stem of the seedhng being placed close to it, so that tKe inarch may be easily accomphshed (fig. 79). The union is a rapid one and be- comes perfect some time before the cotyledons decay.* * Author's Note. — As above described, a small piece of bark is removed from both stock and cion before tying the seedling to the stock. GRAFTAGE 107 It is well known that many seedling Roses on their own roots produce flowers before the cotyledons decay, but the flowers are necessarily small and have Httle to indicate their eventual value. The seedHng-inarch system shortens very considerably the period between germination and the production of flowers of maximum size — a material aid to the breeder in determining the value of the seedling within a few months after germination. Fig. 78. — Seedling Roses. The plants have been removed from the pots and wrapped in burlap (See page 106) Seedhngs raised from seeds of new and rare trees, shrubs, and vines may be induced to grow very quickly if used as cions when a few weeks old, by inarching to strong-growing plants of other species of the same genus, or in some cases on species of other genera of the same family. This has been done recently with such plants as Chestnuts, Walnuts, Hawthorns, Oaks, and many others. It is not necessarily done for the purpose of hastening the flowering or the fruiting of new plants, but to give quickly an abundance of material for propagation by budding or grafting when the new material is assumed to be valuable. If a hardwood seedhng of hybrid origin is tied to a large stock and they fail to unite, there is Uttle or no danger of losing the seedling, provided its roots are kept damp during the period of making the attempt. If the inarch is not successful, the seedhng can be repotted and grown in the usual way." 108 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION TOP GRAFTING AND DOUBLE WORKING Trees which are not of the desired variety, even when old, can be grafted at various points in the top. It should take three or four years to work over a whole tree, certain branches being chosen each year. The younger the tree, the easier and more quickly it can be worked. Fig. 79. — Inarched seedling Roses. Just as in figure 7oA_the bark is cut on both stock and cion and tied together. The seedling Rose is tied to the rose stock (See pages 106, 107) Cleft grafting is mainly used in carrying on this work. It must always be remembered that the cions will grow straight up; the clefts must, therefore, be made horizontal rather than vertical. In some cases varieties which make poor growth or are sus- ceptible to decay at the soil hne are double worked ; in other words, some strong variety is root grafted on a stock, then later the second variety is cleft grafted on the strong stock. Bosc, Dix, Dunmore, Josephine de Mahnes, Marie Louise, Paradise, Shelden, Washington, Winter Nehs and, some other Pears do not graft readily on the Quince. A strong growing sort, such as Duchesse d'Angouleme, Vicar of Wakefield or Diel, is used upon the Quince ; then the other varieties are budded a few inches above- the graft. GRAFTAGE 109 The Tompkins King, Grimes Golden and some other Apple varieties are best top worked upon the Spy. GRAFTING WAX A wax composed of resin and beeswax is most successful in this hot country. In certain European work, waxes containing some alcohol are used, but they are apt to melt. A good wax is made of four parts (by weight) of resin, two parts of beeswax and one part of beef tallow. The beeswax and resin are broken up and the whole mixture melted. When thoroughly melted, the mixture is poured in a pail of cold water. When hard enough to handle it should be worked Hke molasses candy, pulled until it has a grain and becomes a creamy hght brown. When apphed the hands should be well greased. The resin makes the wax hard, the beeswax gives it oiliness and the tallow keeps it soft. Applying the wax. The wax should be apphed by working it in the hands in the form of a flat ribbon. Start in one place and go as far as possible with one piece; a quarter of an inch or less is thick enough, but let all joints between different pieces of wax be thor- oughly worked together so that no air nor water may enter. Cover all cut surfaces. Some workers even wax the upper ends of the cions. Waxed string is prepared by soaking for a few minutes a ball of No. 18 knitting cotton in the kettle of melted wax. Waxed band- ages are prepared the same way; the cloth should be torn into widths of a half inch and rolled before dipping into the wax. CACTUS GRAFTING Some Cacti are grafted to cause earher flowering. With others to increase the decorative appearance of the traihng sorts such as the Epiphyllum or Christmas Cactus, they are placed upon upright growing sorts such as Pereskia and Cereus. Furthermore, when plants become so decayed at their roots that cuttings are difficult to obtain, the small tip may be grafted upon a vigorous stock. Cleft (see fig. 80), saddle and splice (see fig. 61) grafts are the most used. Both methods give a good area for the union of the parts. In preparing the stock for the cleft graft, the clefts are cut V-shaped, rather than spht. The cions should be trimmed wedge-shaped to fit the cleft. As the sticky sap of the Cactus allows the cion to shp from the stock readily, a spine no COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION ?/OI ABC Fig. 80.— Cleft grafting Cacti. A, The stock, a Pereskia, is prepared by cutting out a wedge-shaped piece. C, Thecion, an Epiphylluni, is a short branch; a little of the outside is removed from each side of the base. B, the stock and cion fitted together from an Opuntia or a Pereskia is frequently used which will pin the cion to the stock. Wm. G. Becker, of the New York Botanical Garden, be- lieves that grafts made indoors are benefited by waxing with ordinary candle wax dropped on the cut surfaces. In grafting Mammillaria, the Echinocadus, the Echino- cereus and other globose or thick sorts, a stock is selected which is about the same diam- eter as the cion. The top of the stock is cut off perfectly level; the cion is cut in the same way; the cut surfaces are fitted together and tied with a cloth or soft cord. CHAPTER V FRUIT STOCKS Apples — Collecting Seeds — Sowing Seeds — Dwarf Apples — Apri- cots — Cherries — Peaches — - Pears — Plums — Pedigreed Stock. APPLES THE common stock for the Apple is that grown from the seed of the French Crab Apple, which is found wild in Europe. Tl^p Apples are used for cider, the seeds being kept and sown. The seedlings are quite uniform in their growth and are supplied to the American nurserymen so cheaply that much stock is imported rather than being grown from seed. There is, however, an extensive acreage of Apple stock growing in the neighborhood of Kansas and the Central West. Formerly quantities of seeds were collected in Vermont, but as this seed was obtained from the grafted varieties, rather than from seedlings, in many cases, it proved to be inferior and is gradually losing favor. COLLECTING SEEDS Should the orchardist or nurseryman wish to save his own seed, he may collect the pomace at the cider mill and place it in a barrel of water to soak. The pulp will gradually come to the top and can be skimmed off; the seeds will settle to the bottom. By screening through two sieves the seeds are cleaned sufficiently. The first screen should be just coarse enough to let the seeds pass through and the second sieve should be finer, so that the fine pulp may be removed, leaving the seeds. The seeds are spread out in thin layers to dry, after which they are stored in a cool, moist place until Autumn, when they are sown. SOWING SEEDS Apple seeds are usually sown during November in special seed beds which are prepared with a light sandy loam. Four feet will be a convenient width for working the beds. Lath screens should 111 112 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION FRUIT STOCKS 113 be provided. In the Spring, when germination has taken place, the seeds are taken from the beds and sown in the nursery row. Had the seeds been sown directly in the nursery there might possibly have been greater chance for vacant spots due to poor ger- mination, and at the same time the weeds would have come up earher than the Apple seedhngs. Most Apple seedhngs are root- grafted (see page 91) but this is often accompained by crown gall. DWARF APPLES The stocks used for dwarfing the Apple are known as the Doucin and the Paradise. The Paradise is the more dwarf. Incidentally, it may be stated that dwarf trees are hardly as popular in the United States as in Europe for the trees are less hardy, the tree roots are at the surface of the soil and are frequently injured by cultivation. When any of the dwarf trees are planted, care must be taken that the union of the stock and cion is not placed beneath the surface of the soil, or else the cion will root, and being on its own roots, will lose its dwarfness. APRICOTS Apricots are usually budded upon seedhng stocks or upon the Peach. The stones are treated as for Peaches. They are budded about the first of September. Some propagators hold that the Peach being better adapted to a range of soils than the Apricot is, therefore, a more successful stock. Prof. Budd, however, advises the native Plums as the best stock, holding that they are superior to the Myrobalan or St. JuHen stocks. For wet locations the Plum is especially useful. CHERRIES Fruit growers and nurserymen are, at present, having a contro- versy as to just which stock is the best for commercial Cherry culture. The Mahaleb and the Mazzard are the two sorts most used. According to Hedrick,* the fruit growers hold that the Mazzard is the best stock for all orchard varieties; the nurserymen befieve the Mahaleb better for the Sour Cherries and really good for the Sweet sorts as well. The Mazzard stock is more expensive. The Mazzard Cherry, P. avium, is the type from which has come the varieties of Sweet Cherries. It is tall growing. The tree is not *Hedrick, U. P. Cherries of New York. 114 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION of the hardiest type but is a vigorous grower and is healthy, except for its susceptibihty to attacks of the Shot-hole Fungus which makes it difficult to grow in the nursery. This stock is readily grown from seed. The Mahaleb Cherry, P. Mahaleb, is a bush-hke Cherry, with fme branches ; the leaves are small. The fruits are green, turning yellow, and when ripe become black; but they are hard, bitter and astringent. Mahaleb, therefore, differs widely from the sweet and the sour Cherry. It is propagated mostly by seed, but may be increased by cuttings and suckers. It is much easier to get a good looking tree when Mahaleb is used because it is adapted to a great range of soils ; is hardier to heat and cold ; less particular about cultivation; will stand more cutting in nursery when pruning is necessary; is less susceptible to aphis; is usually not so susceptible to the Shot-hole fungus and is more easily budded. Cherries on Mahaleb ripen their wood earher and may be dug earlier; for the fruit grower Cherries budded on Mahaleb are hardier for the same reason. Sweet Cherries should be on Mazzard stock; the IVIahaleb budded sorts are dwarf growing and varieties come into bearing earlier, although the size of Cherries is the same. Better unions are made on the Mazzard. The Mahaleb thrives on a greater variety of soils. The varieties on Mazzard are more productive and pro- fitable than on Mahaleb. Cherries are usually budded, but they are successfully grafted, upon seedling roots. When planted deep enough the cion takes root; the variety is then upon its own roots. PEACHES Much of our Peach stock is home grown. The stones are gathered from the wild Peaches in the mountains of Tennessee and the Carolinas. The seeds collected at canneries are thought to produce short Mved trees. Peach seed may be sown in flats of a sandy soil and exposed to the Winter frosts or they may be placed in pits, mere holes dug in the soil, in which the stones may be kept moist and to which the frost may enter. Peaches are usually budded, although some growers report having been successful in grafting them. In the South, Peaches are June budded but in the North budding is practiced in August or September. See page 100. Care must be exercised in selecting bud-wood that mature buds are used ; there are usually two or three immature buds at the ends of the branches. The current year's growth also has two FRUIT STOCKS 115 116 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION sorts of buds, *branch buds and fruit buds; branch buds must be used as the fruit buds merely flower and are gone, while branch buds grow to make the top of the tree. The fruit buds are fre- quently found on each side of the brapch bud; they may be broken ofl", as they are of no use. When only one bud is found in the axil of the leaf it is generally a branch bud. PEARS The stock used for the Pear is mostly raised from seed gathered from the cider mills of France. This Pear is known as the Perry Pear. Often seedhngs of the Kieffer are used for stocks, for these prove very bhght resistant. Some stock is obtained from Japan in which case the stocks are seedhngs of the Chinese or Japanese Sand Pear. Regarding the use of the latter Pear, Joseph Meehan writes : "The Sand Pear and its offspring, the Le Conte, are found un- suitable for using as stocks for ordinary Pears, much as they may be desirable for the Kieff'er, Garber and other kindred bloods. When the ordinary Pears are worked on them they grow nicely for a year or two, then almost cease growing and dwindle away. Whether this is true, too, in respect to the Kiefl'er itself, when its seeds are grown, is not so well attested. As it is a hybrid between the com- mon Sand Pear and a common one, supposedly the Bartlett, its seedhngs may be better suited for stocks than pure Sand Pear seedhngs would be; still, those who have tried it do not appear to consider it as good for their purpose as the coimnon French Pear stocks. Austrahan papers speak of the Kieff'er seeds being used by the nurserymen of that country at the present time. What attracts those who use the seeds of the Sand Pear tribe, is, that the seedhngs are just the thing for stocks for the Kieff'er, this latter being popular everywhere as a profitable market Pear; and then the vigorous growth of these seedhngs would fit them for stocks for all sorts of Pears could they be got to thrive on them." Dwarf Pears. Dwarf Pears are obtained by budding or grafting on the Quince, the former method being preferred. Most Quince stock is obtained from Angers, France. The Pear seems to produce larger fruits when grafted on the Quince than it does on the Pear. Pecuharly enough, the Quince is not successfully grafted upon the Pear. The Kieffer Pear should not be dwarfed ; it usually outgrows the stock and results in a top-heavy tree. *Branch buds are frequently called leaf buds but this is an incorrect term because each bud of this sort produces tranches. FRUIT STOCKS 117 PLUMS Most growers prefer the Myrobalan Plum stock for general purposes. The native Plums are also used for American varieties and some nurserymen prefer the Peach for the Japanese sorts, when they are to be grown on sandy soils. The St. Julien is a variety which is propagated by the French nurserymen and fre- quently used as a stock for Domestica and Insititia when it can be obtained cheaply. The Myrobalan is obtained from France and is raised from seed. Prof. Hedrick* mentions that its roots are apt to Winter-kill in the colder regions and in the warm sections of this country the plants sucker badly. The St. Juhen stocks make trees longer hved, hardier, deeper feeding, less suckering and well adapted to changed soils. It is, however, difficult to bud; the young trees do not make the good growth that is made on the Myrobalan. Besides the poor growth the young trees are rather susceptible to fungus attacks in the nursery rows. The Peach as a stock proves successful on sandy or gravelly soil. The trees make a rapid growth, and bear when young. There is little tendency toward sprouting at the roots. The budding is easy and the nursery plants have a good appearance, besides being pro- duced cheaply. Especially successful on the Peach are the Japan- ese or Triflora Plums. Prof. Hedrick says that the Lombard, the Damsons, the Yellow Egg, the Washington, the Domestica and the Insititia varieties do not unite readily with the Peach. Mariana stocks root readily from cuttings and give a good nursery appearance, but they are inclined to sucker. The Americana stock is the only safe one for the coldest parts of this country. They sucker badly but produce good root systems. Americana stocks are not extensively employed by nurserymen because of their price and their unknown value. Munsoniana seedhngs are adapted for stocks when the orchard is planted in low wet lands. ^ In top working Plums let the work be done early in the life of the tree. Later working will make slow and crooked growth. The Lombard has proved a successful stock for top working the Domes- tica varieties. PEDIGREED STOCKS Incidentally, it is interesting to add a statement made by Hedrick, who opposes the idea that pedigree stock is superior to ordinary ♦Hedrick, U. P. The Plums of New York. 118 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION stock. Regarding Plums he writes: "Buds in propagating are usually taken from nursery stock, a practice of decades, and there is no wearing out of varieties. Old varieties have lost none of the characters accredited to them a century, or several centuries, ago by pomological writers. Nor does it seem to matter, in respect to trueness to type, whether the buds be taken from a vigorous, young stripling, a mature tree in the hey-day of life, or some strugghng, lichen-covered ancient — all alike reproduce the variety. The hypothesis that fruit trees degenerate or, on the other hand, that they may be improved by bud-selection, finds no substantiation in this fruit." Certain other authorities and, especially, nurserymen, like to believe that a good tree bearing good fruit yields buds and cions superior to those taken from an ordinary specimen tree. The reader must not take this statement to mean that cions of Bartlett Pears would not be superior to cions from a seedhng or inferior variety. But Hedrick feels that cions from one especially superior tree would not give better results than from a less attractive appear- ing tree, or from young plants in the nursery row. Hedrick has an orchard of Rome Beauty Apples all propagated from cions from the same one tree. There is as much variation in this orchard as one would find in any orchard of one variety of fruit. Environ- ment governs the yield, in this case, not the heredity. It might be added that the expression "pedigreed stock" means to some nurserymen that they guarantee their stock true to name, and that it has been propagated from bearing trees and does not carry with it the idea of propagation from exceptional trees. CHAPTER VI 4 FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS' PLANTS Carnations — Chrysanthemums — Ferns — Life History — Collecting Spores — Soil for Sowing — Sowing — Getting New Varieties — Division — Runners — Bulblets — Tip Layers — Tubers — Top Layers — Orchids — Division and Cuttings — Seed — Poinsettia — Roses — Seed — Hardwood Cuttings — Softwood Cuttings of Out- - door Sorts — Indoor Cuttings of Commercial Roses — Summer Cuttings — Grafting and Budding — Rose Stocks — Manetti — Canina — Carolina — Multiflora — Setigera — Budding Roses — Grafting to Increase Yield — Grafting Case — Preparation for Grafting — Grafting Operations — Rapid Method of Increasing New Varieties — Trenching INIethod — Root Cuttings — Layers — Violet — Improving Violet Crop. CARNATION CUTTINGS LARGE Carnation growers reserve a certain number of plants. ^ which are not allowed to produce blooms, for it is from such plants as this that the best cuttings are obtained. The cuttings should be three to four inches long and are best removed from the plants by giving them a downward pull. Such a cutting will have several "hairs," or fibro-vascular bundles, at its base. Except for removing these hairs the cuttings are untrimmed, unless too long, for, according to the best modern practice, the cutting should have as little cut surface as possible. Cuttings if taken from high up on the flowering stems are thought to give weak-stemmed plants, and if taken from the shaded bases of the plants the resulting plants are apt to be narrow -leaved and weak. They should be rooted in a temperature of from 50 degrees to 55 degrees overhead, and 60 degrees to 65 degrees in the sand. Too high a temperature weakens the cuttings, and when rooted at 40 degrees it takes a week longer to root. It usually requires 10 days to callus and from 18 to 21 days to root. The cuttings should be inserted very shallow in the sand for best rooting. When rooted, pot in 2-inch pots and keep them close for several days, shading them and syringing carefully. 119 120 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION CHRYSANTHEMUM PROPAGATION Chrysanthemum cuttings (see figs. 17A and 17B) may be rooted at a temperature of 40 degrees or up to 80 degrees, but 55 degrees is the proper one. If a bottom heat of from 5 degrees to 10 degrees can be supplied they will root a little more quickly. The cuttings are taken any time between February and July, though April is the ideal month. The earlier they are taken the more shifts the plants will require in order that they shall not become woody. Late propagation gives dwarf plants. The cuttings are treated as softwood cuttings and should be potted as soon as roots start. The plants may be set deeply in the pots in order that they may not appear spindhng. Use httle or no manure at this time. CHRYSANTHEMUM STOCK PLANTS After flowering, the blooming stems are cut down and the plants are shifted to an out-of-the-way bench, planted closer to- gether where they may be kept cool (40 degrees), but in good con- dition until cuttings are required. At the beginning of March more heat and moisture should be supplied. FERN PROPAGATION Life history. Ferns bear spores; the flowering plants produce seeds. Fern spores are not embryo plants but are single cells. When they are placed in a favorable soil for growth, they produce small, heart-shaped plants, usually about the size of the end of a lead pencil. This young Fern stage is known as the prothallus (see fig. 83^). Male and female organs are produced on this prothallus. When the male elements are ripe, they lash themselves about, for they possess tiny tails, and enter the female portions of the plant. As soon as the union has taken place, a tiny frond is produced which gradually develops roots and other fronds until it matures. Upon maturing, a defmite portion of the frond develops spore- bearing apparatus. These are known as spore cases or sporangia (see flgs. 84^ and 84^). They become miniature sling-shots when ripe, and bursting, scatter the spores a great distance. Most Ferns have these sporangia associated together in small clumps, called sori, and appear as brown spots on the fronds (see figs. HS\ 83^ 84^ 84^ 84^ and 84^). Certain fronds only, in the Staghorn Fern, bear these sori in huge patches. These fronds differ in form from the sterile fronds. A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS' PLANTS 121 Fig. S3. Ferns. 1, A Fern plant bearing a mature and an unfolding frond (c). Each division of the frond (or leaf) is known as a pinna (plural, pinnae) (P). The pinnse are covered with dot-like masses, or spore cases (sp). The underground stem of a Fern is known as a rhizome or root-stock (R). 2, A portion of a frondof Osrminda regalis, the Royal Fern; in this case certain pinnae are much reduced in size (sp.) and are the only ones which bear the spores. 3, A Fern prothallus. This is the sexual stage and produces the male and female organs which in uniting give rise to the growth of the mature forms. This prothallus has started to produce a frond (Seepages 120-123) In the Osmunda regalis, or Royal Fern, the tips of the frond are so changed as to be devoted alone to spore bearing (see fig. 83^) . Certain of the Adiantums, or Maidenhair Ferns, and many of the Boston Fern sports have transformed their fronds to such an extent that no spore areas are found. FERN PROPAGATION BY SPORES Collecting. As soon as the Fern fronds are seen to be maturing their spores, the whole frond should be picked and placed in a paper bag to catch the powdery spores. The ripening can best be 122 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION Fig. 84. Ferns. 1, A microscopic view of a spore case before it has burst. 2, The •spore case has ripened and is scattering its spores. 3, The spoie aiets of Adiantum. Note that the tips of the pinnae are folded back and it is under the margins that the spore cases are produced. 4, The spore cases form huge clusters in Polypodium. 5, In Dryopteris the spore cases are kidney shaped. 6, Each pinnae at the tips of certain fronds .of Pteris has the edged rolled back; under these the spore cases are borne (See page 120) ascertained by the use of a hand-lens, the baff for several weeks before sowine. They should remain in SOIL FOR SOWING FERN SPORES The proper soil for sowing spores is one composed of leaf mold, sand and well decayed sod loam. The sand will furnish good drainage. The soil must be carefully sifted through a fme sieve, ■and should be sterihzed by pouring boiling water through it, or by baking it. SOWING FERN SPORES The pots used should be thoroughly sterihzed by burning. When large quantities of Ferns are grown the spores are sown in flats or shallow boxes, although usually seed pans will be large enough. Plenty of drainage of broken flower pots, is always placed A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS' PLANTS 123 in the bottom of the flats. The soil is now carefully placed in the flat and shghtly pressed to a perfect level. When the surface is not absolutely level the lower portions of the flat will become •damp and sour. W ater the soil now, by a fine rose spray, or sub- merge the flat in water so that there will be sub-irrigation. Scatter the spores evenly over the surface after the soil has lost its first appearance of wetness, and cover with a pane of glass and a news- paper. When the spores have germinated the glass should be iraised to give ventilation. Gradually more air should be given iuntil finally the glass may be removed. When the Ferns have grown several leaves they should be transplanted on the point of a knife into flats, using a soil con- sisting of a mixture of leaf mold and sand. GETTING NEW VARIETIES OF FERNS It is when the Ferns have grown to resemble a small round leaf tthat they have reached the prothallus stage, or the sexual period {see fig. 83^). They will now^ hybridize. If hybrids are not "wanted, keep the various flats away from each other, otherwise a mixed lot of stock is the result. Ferns do not mix when in the large, frond-bearing stage. It is not the spores of the fronds which ^ inch pots. Pot firmly in a good Rose soil and place in a house with a temperature of 50 degrees. Some growers place the pots under the Carnation benches. They are syringed twice a day to soften the wood, causing them to start to grow more uniformly. They should be examined at regular intervals to find when the white roots have weU started. Then they are grafted. Cions should be selected which are of the same sort as the wood used for cuttings. 136 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION GRAFTING OPERATIONS The splice graft (see figs. 61, 90 and 91) is used, by wliich method the stocks are cut off an inch from the soil with a long slanting cut and the cion is prepared with a similar oblique cut. The cion is then placed on the stub of the stock with cambium layers in con- tact on one side, at least, and firmly tied with raffia. As soon as the plants are ready they are placed in the grafting case; the sashes are tightly closed and left so for about five days unless too much moisture has accumulated ; then open the sash the thickness of a pot label. At the end of this time the case is opened gradually for five or ten minutes a day; a httle longer time for ventilation being allowed each day. It will be three weeks before the grafts are sufficiently knitted to permit their being taken from the frames. They may be placed on a shallow bench where air is circulating and where syringing may be done from both sides. RAPID PROPAGATION OF NEW VARIETIES The following notes are from Air. G. W. Ofiver : "When, as a result of crossing two varieties, a good seedling is secured and tested, the next problem to present itself is to get up a large stock in as short a period as possible so that it can be put on the market. There are various ways to accomphsh this result, but there is only one way to get the maximum number of plants so that cuttings can be rooted for distribution. What is needed is a very quick vegetating stock. The Manetti is too slow for this purpose and it cannot very well be used in Winter. There is a variety introduced by the office of Seed and Plant Introduction (No. 22,449, United States Department of Agriculture), wliich is better for this work than the Manetti and others. This plant is a rampant grower. The bud graft takes quickly on the bases of young stock plants, and when the roots are in good growing condi- tion fine unions are the result. In a few weeks we get growths a foot or more in length. The growing point is then nipped out and the wood firms up quickly, so that bud wood can be secured for further propagation. To depend upon cuttings alone for increasing a new variety is too slow. Bud grafting gives much quicker results. The bud graft* is simply a piece of matured wood with a single bud. Take a bud stick; remove the leaves and the prickles, if present, from about one-half inch from the stem. To remove the bud grafts place the edge of the knife blade about three-sixteenths of an inch * This is a modification of the side graft, (See p. 93 and fig. 60.) A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS' PLANTS 137 below the opposite side of the leaf joint, cut diagonally down and through the stem about three-quarters of an inch, then turn the bud stick and remove a small shce diagonally from the base of the bud graft which, after cutting from the bud stick, is now ready for insert- ing into the stock. To prepare the incision in the stock for the reception of the bud graft, simply make a diagonal cut long enough to receive the bud graft, placing the long side of the cut surface of the bud graft so that it will unite perfectly with the inner cut surface of the stock. In a warm house the union will be perfect in two or three weeks. The top of the stock can then be removed gradually. As soon as the ripened shoots are ready they, in their turn, are used in propagating." Root cuttings. The fleshy rooted sorts, as R. gallica, especially the Moss Roses, R. damascena, R. nitida, R. rugosa, and R. blanda,. may be propagated by root cuttings. Cut up the roots in Autumn and-store in sand. Plant out in Spring. Layers. Dr. Mulford,* writes that R. Hugonis is difficult to grow from cuttings and is therefore grown by layers. Let them get thoroughly rooted before cutting from parent plant. Mound layers are best. For many of the traihng roses, hke R. Wichuraiana, continuous layers are useful. Trenching method. A modification of layering is describecJ by C. D. Beadle, t Superintendent of the Biltmore Estate. Many of the Briar Roses (like Persian Yellow, Austrian Copper, Penzance Sweet Briars), Damask Roses (including the two-color and striped Roses), and many other types are readily propagated by the trenching process. The plants of the- varieties to be propagated are planted out in nursery rows in an almost flat position leaning one against another. The plants are then almost covered with soil, which soil may be gradually filled in as the shoots advance in growth. At the close of the first growing season, the trenched plants are dug and the vertical shoots, are cut from the horizontal branches at their base. Many of the shoots will have rooted, but this is not necessary. The shoots will, however, be covered with "root-bark," a tissue differing from the shoots above the soil. The cuttings, rooted or unrooted, as the case may be, are planted in nursery rows, or in cutting-beds, and grown for several seasons. Seedling inarch. (For discussion of a method of getting seed* Ungs to bloom quickly see page 106, also see figs. 77-79.) * Mulford, F. L. Roses for the Home. Farmers' Built. 750, p. 27. fBeadle, C. D. The Trenching Method of Rose Propagation. American Rose Annual^. 1917, 2d ed., p. 51. 138 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION VIOLET PROPAGATION Rooted cuttings of the Violet taken in February result in good, €lean stock for the next year. They are placed in the sand bench and treated as softwood cuttings. Violets are, however, most easily propagated by division, but there is more danger of spreading disease. By the latter method the plants are divided so that each cutting will have a few roots and a piece of soft stem and a growing shoot. Flats are filled with soil in which the cuttings are placed. They are left for several days in a shady place, usually under a green- house bench, after which they are placed in frames until the season warms up, when they are set in the field about 10 inches apart in the row for singles, and 8 inches apart for the doubles. The rows for convenient cultivation should be 15 to 18 inches apart. Constant Summer cultivation results in good plants. IMPROVING THE VIOLET CROP The various varieties of Violets seem adapted to certain locahties only, and it is highly advisable for each grower to select the variety, and strain of that variety, which meets his conditions best. Dr. Galloway* suggests a method of doing this. The grower should go over his crop, attempting to find those plants which give the most flowers, typically colored, long stemmed, and disease resistant. Suppose one hundred plants are selected, place a stake at the side of each and tie a large shipping tag to the stake upon which the daily picking may be written. Some plants may be found to give ^0 flowers; another may produce 150 flowers; some wiU bloom most in December and January and others in March. Select the strain which produces the most flowers when they are worth the most. At the end of the first year eliminate all plants not producing ninety flowers. Each plant will give ten good cuttings, so that if fifty plants are selected the first year, five hundred good plants are assured for the second. Keep the selected plants labeled. The details of this method can be improved upon by the ingenuity of the grower. *Galloway, B. T. Commercial Violet Culture. i CHAPTER VII HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS In this list of herbaceous perennials are included the commoner sorts of plants, not woody, which live more than one year. They are all genera of plants which are hardy in the Northern States. The writer acknowledges the help of Professor David Lumsden in preparing this list. t Grown from seed usually not blooming until the second year, * — Bloom first year from seed, but the perennials are not at their best until the second year. A — Some species are annuals which, obviously bloom the first year from seed. D — IMay be propagated by division. E — Everlasting or Immortelle flowers, c — Grasses. K — May be propagated by suckers or stolons. B — iNIay be propagated by root cuttings. s — ^lay be propagated by stem cuttings. D Acanthus! D Asphodelus G,D Cortaderia D Achillea* s,D Aster* D Corydalisf D Aconitum* s,D Aubrietiaf A,s,D Delphinium* s,D Acorusf D Auricula* A,s,D Dianthusf s,D Actaeaf D Baptisiaf R,D Dicentra D Adonis* D Bellis* D Dictamnus Agrostemma R,K,D Bocconia* Digitalis t (See Lychnis) D Boltoniaf R,D Dodecatheon s,D Ajugaf A,D Boragof D Doronicum* D Althaea (certain s,D Callirhoef D Drabaf strains*) A,D Campanula t D Dracoceph- A.s.D Alyssum* s,D Caryopterisf alumf s,D Amsoniaf s Cassia t D Echinacea! A,D,R Anchusaf D Catananche* D Echinopst D Anemone t A,s,D Centaureaf D Epimedium D Anthemis* D Centranthusf D Erigeronf D Aquilegiaf A,D Cerastium* D Eryngiumf D.R Arabis* s,R Ceratostigmaf s,D Eupatoriumf s,D Arenariaf Chelone* D Funkia D Armeriaf A,s,D Chrysanthe- A,R,s,D Gaillardia* T^ ArniPfj mum! D Galegat U J. \ 1 11A\^CI 4 a • • I D Cimicifugaf A,D Galium* A,D Artemisia T A 1 s,D Clematis t D Gauraf G,D Arundo D Clintonia D Gentianaf D,R Asclepiasf A,D Coreopsis* D Geumf D Asperula* R,D Coronillaf G,D Gyneriumf 139 140 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION A,s,R,D Gypsophila* K,s,D Mentha t R,K Romneyaf D Haemadorum D ^Nlertensiaf A,s,D Rudbeckiaf D Hedysarumt s Mesembryan- A,s,D Salvia* S,D Heleniumf themumf D Sanguinariaf A,K,s,D Helianthiis* R,s,D Monardaf s,R,D Saponariaf D Helleborusf A,s,D Myosotis* A,K,D Saxifragat D Hepaticaf A,K,s,D (Enotheraf A,D Scabiosat D Heracleum* A,D Papaver (Ice- s,D Sedumf s,D Hesperisf land)* s,D Senecio* s,D Heucheraf D Pentstemonf D Sidalceaf s,D Hyssopusf R,D Peony A,s,D Silenef A,s,D Iberis* G,A,D Phalarisf D Silphinmt D Inula t s,D Phlomist D Sisyrinchium D Iris (California A,R,s,D Phlox s,D Solidagot species must s,D Physostegiaf D Stachyst be from seed) D Platycodon* E,A Staticef D Liatrist Plumbago (see R,D Stokesiaf A,D Linaria* Ceratostigma) s,D Tanacetum A,D Linum* R,D Podophyllum! D Thalictrumf A,D Lobelia* D Polemoniumf R,D Thermopsisf s Lotus t A,D Lupinusf D Polygonatum R,s,D Polygonum t s,D Tradescantia t D TroUius A,s,D Lychnis* D Valeriana t s,D Lysimachia D PotentiUat s,D Verbascumt s,D Ly thrum t D Primula t s,D Veronica t D Mandragoraf s,D Ranunculus t D Violas* s,D Menispermum D Rheum t s,R,D Yuccaf ANNUALS E Acroclinium* s Ageratum* s Alonsoa* Amaranthus* s .Vntirrhinum* -\rctotis* Argemone* Balsam* Brachycome* Browallia* Cacalia* Calendula* Callistephus (China Aster) * Celosia* Cerinthe* Clarkia* Cleome* CoUinsia* Coreopsis (Calliop- sis)* Cosmos* Datura* Diascia* Dimorphotheca * Emilia* Erysimum* Eschscholtzia* Gilia* Godetia* E Gomphrena* E Helichrysum* E Helipterum* G Hordeum* Layia* Madia* s Mathiola (Stocks)* Mentzelia* Mimulus* Nasturtium* Nemesia* Nemophila* Nicotiana* Nigella* G Pennisetum* s Petunia* Phacelia* A Poinsettia* Portulaca* Reseda (Mignon- ette)* E Rhodanthe* Ricinus* Salpiglossis* Sanvitalia* Schizanthus* Sweet Peas* Tagetes (Marigold)* Torenia* s Verbena* E Xeranthemum* Zinnia* BULBOUS PLANTS 141 BULBOUS PLANTS AND THEIR PROPAGATION B — Bulblets c — Cormels Co — Corm D — Natural division o — Offsets R — Rhizomes which may be divided s — Seed Sx — ^^ estern species, by seed only T — Cuttings Tu — Tubers and tuberous roots *^Sometimes grafted to pre- serve rare or weak va- rieties tSpring flowering, out of doors i— A\ inter flowering X — Summer flowering, hardy z — Summer flowering, not hardy Achimenes r,t,z Agapanthus d.z Allium s,o,B4,t Alstroemeria s,d,z Amaryllis s,d,o,J AmorphophaUus o,s,z Anemone s,D,+,t Anomatheca (see Lap- eyrousia) Antholyza d,z Apios Tu,z Ariscema co, or Tu,s,t Arum o,s,| ^abiana c,s,+ Begonia, tuberous s, Tu.z Bessera o,z JBloomeria co,s,t Boussingaultia b, z Brodicea s, o,+ Bulbocodium D,t Caladium tu,z others do not make shapely trees. ABUTILON. Flowering Maple. Seeds. Sow in March. Will bloom in Autumn. Cuttings. Hard or soft wood. Grafting. Any strong growing species may be used upon which? to graft the trailing sort, A. Megapotamicum, in order to makejaj standard plant. Many of the seeds- Grafting in green- Fig. 92. A Maple key ACER. Maple. Box Elder. Seeds. Many of the species grow nicely from seed sown as soon a» ripe. Cuttings. Some species root from hardwood cuttings, A. negundo, especially. Layers. A. rufinerve, A. rubrum, A. cappadocicum {colchicurny var. rubrum, A. platanoidesvar. Schivedleri, A . platanoides yaT.ghbosct and A. palmatum, are best propagated by cutting down a tree- and encouraging long shoots to grow which are layered. Some- times it is not necessary to cut down the trees to induce th& growths. It takes some Maples two years to root. 142 TREE AND SHRUB LIST 145 ACER — Continued Grafting and Budding. Varieties are grafted or budded on types^ for example, A. saccharinum var Wieri is budded on its species A. saccharinum; Schwedler's Maple, and A. globosa are grafted or budded on A. platanoides; A. palmatiim (polymorphum) atropurpureum and dissectum grafted on A. polymorphum; A negundo var. variegata grafted on A. negundo. Two-year-old seed- lings are best. Grafted in April. Budded in August. The Japanese Maples are usually grafted in the greenhouse. Inarching. Many of the Japanese Maples are inarched on seedlings. Best done from June to September. ACTINIDIA. Japan Gooseberry. Seeds. Sown in Spring. Cuttings. Best use green shoots in Summer. Roots form readily^ but buds are tardy to grow. ADENOCARPUS. Cuttings. Unripe wood in greenhouse. iCSCULUS. Horsechestnut. Buckeye. Seeds. Many species grow readily if sown as soon as ripe. JEL carnea (rubicunda) rarely seeds. Root Cuttings. yE. parviflora is so propagated. Budding. jE. carnea (rubicunda) and ^. hippocasianum var. flore pleno are budded on jE. hippocasianum in July or veneer graifted under glass during August upon year-old seedlings. Division. Some of the dwarf sorts are best propagated by division of the crowns. AILANTHUS. Tree of Heaven. Seeds. Preserve during Winter, sown shallow in Spring. Suckers when roots are injured. Root Cuttings. Propagate from pistillate trees; female trees have bad odor. AKEBIA. Cuttings. Hard wood, or soft wood in Summer. Layers. Of hard or soft wood. ALBIZZIA. Seeds. Sow seed as soon as ripe. ALNUS. Alder. Seeds. Sow in Spring. Cover lightly. Keep moist. Cuttings. Ripe wood. Grafting and Budding. Bud or graft varieties on the type. A. firma is best grafted on A. gluiinosa. The Heart-leaved Alder (A. cordifolia) is useful as stock for those sorts to be grown on a dry soil. AMELANCHIER. June Berry. Shad Bush. Seeds. Sow as soon as ripe. Cuttings. Hard wood. Root Cuttings. Bury in sand in cellar during Winter, plant in Spring horizontally. Budding and Grafting. Dwarf sorts grafted on tall stocks. Crataegus may be used as stock. lU COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION AMORPHA. False Indigo. Seeds. Sow seed as soon as ripe. This is commonest method. Cuttings. Hard wood cuttings. Take in Autumn. AMPELOPSIS. Boston Ivy. Virginia Creeper. Woodbine. Seeds. Sow seeds as soon as ripe or keep in moist sand until Spring. Cuttings. Hard wood or soft wood in Summer. Layers. Simple layers used. ANDROMEDA. Seeds. Very fine. Sow in pots in Spring, place in frames in mix- ture of sphagnum, fine loam; cover with glass. Germinate in two months but grow slowly. Cuttings. Soft wood in Summer. Layers. Root slowly, ARALIA. Seeds. Good; when they can be obtained. Root Cuttings. In Spring. About 2 to 3 inches long; set out in rows or take in Autumn and store in sphagnum moss. Grafting. Some of the exotic sorts require grafting upon strong growers. Done in greenhouse. ARBUTUS^ Strawberry Tree. Seeds. Sown in Autumn or early Spring. Cuttings. Half-ripe in Autumn placed in peaty soil. Grafting and Budding. Budded on seedling stock of the European species A. Unedo. Veneer graft used, ASIMINA. Pawpaw. Custard Apple. Seeds. Self sow. Or stratify and sow in Spring. Layers, In Autumn. Suckers when roots are injured. Grafting. A. triloba seedlings are used as stock for the weaker growers and varieties. AUCUBA. Gold-dust Tree. Seeds. Sown soon after maturity. Cuttings. Green or half-ripe wood. Layers. Made of berried branches. Grafting. Varieties are often grafted on the type. AZALEA. Seeds, Sow seed when ripe. Use leaf mold and loam. Best sown in greenhouse. Cuttings. Half-ripe wood. Indoor grown plants root more easily than outdoor ones. It takes several years for cutting grown plants to bloom. Grafting. See Rhododendron, Veneer graft used indoors in the Summer. A. viscosa and A. nudi flora make excellent stocks; especially the first, which is the stronger grower. Layers. A. viscosa and A. amaena. Simple layers. Spring. BENZOIN (Lindera). Spice Bush. Wild AUspice. Seeds. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, using a peaty soil. Cuttings, Green wood, but are difficult to root. TREE AND SHRUB LIST 145 BERBERIS. Barberry. Seeds. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, sowing in a seed bed, covering bed with leaves during Winter. Keep seedlings in partial shade at first. Even the Purple-leaved Barberry comes true to seed. Cuttings. Readily propagated by green cuttings in June. The hard wood cuttings do not root readily. Grafting. Mr. Dunbar suggests grafting the rarer sorts on the Purple Barberry; the suckers are thus easily distinguished. Fig. 93. The seed cone of the Birch BETULA. Birch. (See fig. 93.) Seeds. Sow seeds as soon as ripe. If planting is deferred until Autumn poor germination results. Layers. The lower growing sorts may be layered. Budding and Grafting. Easily done on seedlings of B. nigra, the Red Birch ;B. lenta, the American Sweet Birch; ovB. papyrifera, the Paper Birch. B. Youngi pendula, B. pyramidalis, B. peridula, are budded chiefly, but may also be grafted. '<■ ' BIGNONIA. Trumpet Flower. Cuttings. Evergreen sorts best placed under bell jars to root. Layers. Simple layers used. Root Cuttings in Greenhouse. Of larger rooted sorts. U6 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION BLACKBERRY. Root Cuttings. FaU; about thickness of lead pencil. Cut iato 2 to 3 inch lengths. Store in sand or sawdust until Spring. BLUEBERRY. (See Vaccinium.) BUDDLEIA. Summer Lilac. Butterfly Bush. Seeds. Sown under glass. Cuttings. Use either soft or hard wood cuttings. BUXUS. Box Tree. Seeds. Very slowly grown from seeds. Cuttings. Made of late growths taken in Winter, root by Spring; or younger wood may be rooted in Summer. Pot and grow in frames for a season. Division. Low growing, but old Box plants may be broken into small pieces. CALLICARPA. French Mulberry. Cuttings. Soft wood in Spring. Place under bell jar or with bottom heat. Hard wood cuttings also used. CALLUNA. Heather. (See Vaccinium; these shrubs could, no doubt, be propagated by the methods mentioned.) Cuttings. Green wood under glass. CALOPHACA. Lentil Shrub. Seeds. Sow in Spring. Give good ventilation. Grafting. The Laburnum {Cytisus vulgare) is used as stock for C. wolgarica in order to make graceful trees; the cions are inserted at height of six feet or more. CALYCANTHUS. Sweet Shrub. Calycanthus laevigatas is much sold as C. floridiis, but it does not have the fragrance. C. floridus rarely seeds; C. Icevigatus frequently pro- duces seeds. Cuttings. Soft wood in Summer or hard wood in Autumn. Root Cuttings. Bury roots in sand during Winter; toward Spring cut up into inch lengths and start in greenhouse. CAMELLIA. Cuttings. Matured young wood with bottom heat. Summer. Grafting. The single flowered stocks from seed or cuttings are best. CAMPHORA. Camphor. Seeds. Seeds ripen in Florida in early Winter and should be sown when ripe. CAMPSIS (Tecoma). Trumpet Creeper. Cuttings. Soft and hard wood. Root Cuttings. Of the C. radicans. Grafting. The yeUow flowered variety is grafted upon the type. CARAGANA. Siberian Pea Tree. Seeds. Keep until Spring before sowing, then soak in warm water 48 hours. Grafting. C. arborescens seedlings are used as stocks. When five to six feet tall the stocks are worked with the weeping or pendulous sorts. TREE AND SHRUB LIST 147 CARPINUS. Hornbeam. Blue Beech. Seeds. Sow as soon as ripe; seeds germinate very unevenly. Keep soil moist by covering bed. Grafting. Seedlings of C. caroliniana (americana) or C. hetulus are used for the cut-leaved and Oak-leaved sorts. CARYA. Hickory Nuts. Seeds. Sow in November or in early Spring, but keep in moist sand all Winter. Grafting. The various Caryas are often grafted on the Butternut or C cordiformis (amara) which is potted a year previously. Veneer or splice grafts are used. Baltet mentions using terminal bud grafting. After wrapping with twine and waxing, the graft is covered with a bag made of waxed paper. The bag serves to hold the moisture, preventing evaporation from the cion. CARYOPTERIS. Blue Spiraea. Seeds. Pick the seeds in Autumn. Sow in February. Pot seedlings . .Cuttings. Pot plants. Bring into heat in February. Take soft wood cuttings. CASTANEIA. Chestnut. Chinquapin. Seeds. C. pumila Chinquapin. Sow seed as soon as ripe. Squirrels and mice will eat the seed, so protect them. Sow in flats rather than seed bed, or keep in moist sand during Winter, sowing in Spring to avoid the pests. C. americana. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, or if kept till Spring they must be kept from drying out; if put in glass jar tightly corked they keep nicely. Grafting. Makes them fruit earlier. The grafting is done in the Spring, but not until trees are about to burst into leaf. Seedlings are grafted by whip grafting. No method meets with satisfactory results. The Chestnut may be propagated on the Oak. CASTANOPSIS. Seeds. Sow seeds as soon as ripe or keep moist until Spring, then sow CATALPA. Indian Bean. Seeds. Sow seeds in Spring. Cuttings. Made in Spring; set in nursery rows immediately. Grafting. C. Bungei (see fig. 94) and C. hignonioides are budded, or grafted on C. speciosa, late in season, at height of five to six feet. When grafting use the splice graft. When budded, the buds are placed on both sides of the stock. Cut bud sticks early and keep in cool, damp place until June, when bark lifts nicely. CEANOTHUS. New Jersey Tea. Seeds. Seeds sown in Spring. Cuttings. Either ripe or green wood. Root Cuttings. Made in Autumn, placed in flats of sandy soil to root. 148 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION CEDRELA. Seeds. Grow readily. Cuttings. Hard wood with bottom heat. Root Cuttings. Cut down the growth if the first shoot by this method is not straight. CEDRUS. True Cedars. Seeds. Sown in Spring. Grafting. C. Deodara, the Deodar Cedar, and C. Lihani, the Cedar of Lebanon, best grafted on seedhngs of species or on C. atlantica, the Mt. Atlas Cedar. Use veneer graft. CELTIS. Nettle Tree. Sugar Berry. Seeds. Sow when ripe. Cuttings. Hard wood. Layers. Useful when possible to make. Grafting. Graft rarer roots on C. occidentaUs. CEPHALANTHUS. Button Bush. Seeds. Grow readily. Cuttings. Hard wood or green wood. Fig. 94. Catalpa Bungei. This type of tree is obtained by budding Catalpa Bungei upon C . speciosa (See page 147) , Hi«i»Hk.Mk>k ^. ■ :>-^*>t^ ^^^HHv^ ^^^H^l '^^^smmmM^^i ■ - :!f^^^^|:/' ^. ^ w^^^^^^^^^^t^ '-^-^^S^B jHpH^' . *i '■ ■H^' I'^fS'tsn ^^^'' < V. ~ < *, - . ~ « • " M^.^ ■ fSMWif , _..^ ■P ' "*^' "'"'^^^-''■- - ■• m ..^^"^^ ^',,^,. • idHHR Fi». 102. Camperdown Elm. The Camperdown Elm (Ulmus glabra va,T.Camper- downii) is either budded or grafted at a height of seven to eight feet upon U. americana, U. campestris, U. glabra or U. foliacea VACCINIUM — Continued early Summer on these artificially produced rootstocks, and by the end of Autumn all the shoots should be well rooted at the base. They should remain in place in the sand bed till late Winter or early Spring, undisturbed and exposed to outdoor freezing temperatures; but the sand should be mulched with leaves, preferably those of Red Oaks. 5. Early in the following Spring, before the buds have begun to push, open the bed and sever each rooted shoot carefully from the stump. Discard the upper portion of the shoot, making the cut at such a point as to leave on the basal portion about three buds above the former level of the sand bed. If the cut at the basal end of the rooted shoot is not smooth or the wood is cracked, recut the surface with a sharp, thin- 174 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION VACCINIUM — Continued bladed knife. The discarded upper portion of the shoot may be used for Winter cuttings, as described on pages 8 to ii. 6. Set the rooted shoots in a coldframe or a cool greenhouse in cleart earthenware pots of suitable size, ordinarily 3-inch pots, in a soil mixture consisting of two parts, by bulk, of rotted upland peat and one part of sand. 7. Cover the frame with muslin or other white shade suspended above- the glass, giving the plants plenty of light but no direct sunlight, and Fig. 103. New shoots on a stumped Blueberry. The three shoots shown grew aft^r the plant had been cut to the stump. Their white color at the base indicates the- depth of the propagating bed through which they forced their way and from which ther plant was taken to be photographed. Roots had already begun to develop. Usedthrouga the courtesy of Dr. F. V. Coville of the United States Department of Agriculture TREE AND SHRUB LIST 175 VACCINItnVI— Continued Fig. 104. Tubered Blueberry Cutting with young sprouts developing. Used through the courtesy of Dr. F. V. Coville of the United States Department of Agriculture for the first two or three months keep the temperature at not to exceed 65 degrees F. if practicable. When subjected to high temperatures the newly cut shoots are liable to die and rot from the base upward. The outer surface of the pots should never be allowed to become dry. The desired condition may be assured by bedding, or "plunging," the pots in moist sand up to the rim, 8. Watering should be as infrequent as practicable, only sufficient to keep the soil moist but well aerated. 9. The frame should receive ventilation, but not enough to cause the new twigs to drop. These are most susceptible to over-ventilat'on and to over-heating when they have nearly completed their growth, 10. After the new twigs have stopped growing and their wood becomes hard, new root growth takes place. Then secondary twig growth follows, either from the apex of the new twigs or from another bud lower down on the old wood of the original rooted shoot. Until this secondary twig growth takes place the life of the plant is not assured. 11. Those plants that make sufficient growth to require repotting during the first Summer should be set in clean pots of two inches larger diameter in a standard Blueberry-soil mixture. Soil Mixture for Blueberries. Use "one part of clean or washed sand, nine parts of rotted upland peat, either chopped or rubbed through a sieve, and three parts of clean, broken crocks, or flower pots. No loam and especially no lime should be used. Manure is not necessary. The peat most successfully used for potting Blueberry plants is an upland peat procured in Kalmia, or Laurel, thickets. Oak leaves raked, stacked, and rotted for about eighteen months without lime or manure are also good." TuBERiNG. Cuttings by ordinary methods have been seldom rooted. Tubering is a method by which new shoots are forced in such a way that their basal portions are much like scaly root stocks stem. 176 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION VACCINIUM — Continued Cuttings are taken from outdoor plants between midwinter and early- Spring, before the buds have begun to make their Spring growth. The cuttings are placed horizontally in a shallow box or other cutting bed of pure clean sand and covered to the depth of about half an inch. Fig. 105. Tubered Blueberry cutting with sprouts rooting at the base. The sprout at the left in figure 104 had emerged from the sand and begun to develop green leaves above the surface. The sprout near the center of figure 104 is younger, the whole of it still in the rootstock stage. The two sprouts in figure 105 are developing roots on their lower parts, above the dying wood of the old cutting and beneath the surface of the^cutting bed. Used through the courtesy of Dr. F. V. Coville of the United States Department of Agriculture Within a few weeks new growth will begin to appear above the sand. (See fig. 104.) When the shoots have reached a length pro- portionate to their vigor, commonly one to three inches, their further growth is self-terminated by the death of the tip. After the leaves have reached their full size and acquired the dark-green color of ma- turity the time has come for the development of roots. When a shoot is well rooted, with roots one to two inches in length, it is ready to be potted. If the shoot has not already disconnected itself from the dead cutting, it should be carefully severed with a sharp knife. In the process of tubering, the behavior of the cuttings is essentially identical with that of real tubers, like those of the potato. The original cutting dies, but the sprouts that arose from it root at the base and form independent plants. TREE AND SHRUB LIST 177 VIBURNUM. Includes Snowball. High Bush Cranberry. Seeds. Wash free from pulp; sown in Autumn or mix with dry sand; keep in a cool place and sow in Spring. Cuttings. Soft wood in Summer root readily. Hard wood cuttings are easily rooted. Layers. Early Summer. VITEX. Chaste Tree. Hemp Bush. Seeds. Freely produced. Cuttings. Soft or hard wood; the hard wood cuttings may set in a protected place in the Autumn. VITIS. Grape. Seeds. Rarely come true to type but for raising seedlin-^s of' new varieties, the seeds are removed from the pulp and stored in moist sand until Spring when they may be sown in flats or in the open soil. Except for the tender types, the seeds may benefit by being frozen during the Winter. Cuttings. Single eye cuttings may be used when wood is scarce, or valuable. A small piece of wood should be left on each side of the eye so that the cutting is about one and a half inches long. These cuttings are made in February from wood stored through the Winter in a cool cellar. They are placed in propagating bench with slight bottom heat. The best wood for use in making cuttings is that which is rather short jointed. The most common type of cutting, however, is five to seven inches long, made in the Autumn and stored in a sandy soil out of doors or in a cool cellar. They are placed up-side down to hasten the callus. In the Spring the cuttings are set in the nursery row. Grafting. Grapes are grafted in earliest Spring or Autumn. The soil around the plants is removed and the cion is inserted beneath the soil. Merely tie with raffia. If grafting has been neglected until the sap flows, the stocks may be grafted after the buds burst. This will eliminate the excess bleeding. The European Grape is usually grafted on American stocks because of its susceptibility to root louse injury. After grafting very early in Spring or in Autumn Mr. Fuller* suggests protecting the cion from frost by covering with an inverted flower pot and straw. Layers. The simplest method of propagating is by continuous layers. Bend down a cane and cover a few inches deep with soil. Nearly all the nodes will root. Practiced in Autumn or Spring. WISTARIA. (Also speUed Wisteria.) Seeds. Grow readily but do not reproduce varieties. Cuttings. Ripened wood rooted under glass. Root Cuttings. One inch or more long. Layers. Easily rooted. Grafting. Horticultural varieties grafted on W. frutescens. XANTHOCERAS. Seeds. Few produced but usually all grow if sown in greenhouse. Root Cuttings. Roots cut into three inch pieces in Autumn and stored in sand until February, then placed where they may start into growth with a light bottom heat. * Fuller. A. S.— Grape Culturist. 178 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION XANTHORRHIZA. Shrubby YeUow-Root. (Also spelled Zanthorr- hiza.) Seeds. Sown in Autumn or early Spring. Seedlings are weak when young. Root Divisions. In Autumn or Early Spring. XANTHOXYLUM. Prickly Ash. Toothache Tree. (Also spelled Zanthoxylum.) Root Cuttings. Easiest method. YUCCA. Root Cuttings. Cut up thick roots into two inch pieces, place one to two inches deep. CHAPTER IX BOOK LIST The following books will prove of use to supplement the brief discussion of the propagation of plants found in the present volume. Bailey, Liberty H. 1913. The Nursery-Book. A complete guide to the multiplication of plants. Bailey, Liberty H. 1914-1917. Standard Cyclopedia of Horticul- ture. Six volumes. -Balfour, I. Bayley. 1913. Prorlems of Propagation. Journal of Royal Horticultural Society. Vol. XXXVHI, part HI, pp. 447-461. Baltet, Charles. 1910. The Art of Grafting and Budding. Brown, B. S. 1916. Modern Propagation of Tree Fruits. Budd, J, L. and Hansen, N. E. 1902. American Horticultural Manual. Part L Gorbett, L. G. 1909. The Propagation of Plants. U. S. D. A., Farmers' Bull. No. 157. Goville, Frederick V. 1916. Directions for Blueberry Culture. U. S. D. A. Professional Paper Bull. No. 334, pp. 3-13. Craig, William N. 1917. Seed Sowing Suggestions. Transactions of Mass. Hort. Society for the year 1917, Part I, pp. 15-29. V FuUer, Andrew S. 1887. Propagation of Plants, giving the principles which govern the development and growth of plants, their botanical affinities and peculiar properties; also descriptions of the process by which varieties and species are crossed or hybridized, and the many different methods by which cultivated plants may be propagated and multiplied. Fuller, Andrew S. 1894. Grape Culturist. A treatise on the cultivation of the modern Grape. Galloway, Beverly T. 1914. Commercial Violet Culture. Hansen, N. E. (See Budd, J. L.) Hedrick, U. P. 1915. The Gherries of New York. Hedrick, U. P. 1911. The Plums of New York. Holmes, Eber. 1911. Commercial Rose Culture, pp. 24-55. Hottes, Alfred C. 1916. Gladiolus Studies H — Culture and Hy- bridization of the Gladiolus. Cornell Extension Bull. 10. Howard, W. L. 1905. Propagating Trees and Plants. Simple directions for propagating many of the common fruits of orchard and garden. 179 180 BOOK LIST Howard, W. L. 1910. Plant Propagation. Missouri State Board of Horticulture. Fourth Annual Report, pp. 177-216. Jenkins, J. 1886. Art of Propagation. A handbook for nursery- men, florists, gardeners and everybody. Kains, M. G. 1916. Plant Propagation. Greenhouse and Nursery Practice. Meehan, Joseph. Nursery notes in Florists' Exchange. de Muelder, Fred. 1915. Planting and Culture of Hyacinths FOR Propagation. Florists' Exchange, April 17. Mulford, F. L. 1916. Roses for the Home. U. S. D. A. Farmers' Bull. No. 750. Oliver, George W. 1911. The Seedling-inarch and Nurse-plant Methods of Plant Propagation. U. S. D. A. Bur. of Plant Industry, Bull. No. 202. Oliver, George W. Plant Culture. Revised issue early in 1918. A working hand-book of every day practice for all who grow flower- ing and ornamental plants in the garden and greenhouse. Thompson, Charles H. 1912. Ornamental Cacti: Their culture and decorative value. U. S. D. A. Bur. of PI. Industry, BuU. No. 262. Trillow, Wilham. 1912. Propagation of Shrubs. Proceedings of the Society of Iowa Florists, pp. 75-80. Webster, P. J. 1916. Plant Propagation in the Tropics. Bur. of Agr., Philippine Is., Bull., No. 32. White, Edward A. 1915. Principles of Floriculture. •!•*- The first edition was an unusually large one for the subject, but so overwhelming was its success that a second edition was called for within 18 months SECOND EDITION Practical Landscape Gardening By ROBERT B. CRIDLAND Landscape architect of more than twenty years' experience and national reputation. First practical book ever written for people of moderate income. Through its concise- ness and lucidity of expression, rarely met with in technical or semi-technical guides, the reader is encouraged at the ease with which he can acquire all needful instruction on every detail connected with landscape gardening and to the embellishment of the home grounds. Owners of suburban homes, flower and garden lovers, florists and nurserymen, park com- missioners and civic officials, and students of landscape architecture will find help and inspiration within its covers such as no other book has ever afforded. DESCRIPTION OF CHAPTER ILLUSTRATIONS ings, etc., together with numerous line cuts showing how to plant and move trees, lay out ornamental vegetable gar- den, lawn groupings, etc. 7 — The Flower Garden. — Seventeen halftones of properly laid out gardens with several planting plans and keys thereto. 8 — -Architectural Features. — ^Eight halftones showing bird bath, fountains and pools, garden seats, pergolas and other features,^ together with plans for the construction of garden houses, entrances, pergolas, etc. 9 — Hardy Borders and Rose Gar- dens. — Fifteen attractive halftones and plans of borders and rose gardens. 10— Wild Gardens and Rock Gar- dens. — Seven illustrations, together with plan showing how to build a dry retaining wall for planting. 11 — Planting Plans. — Twenty-four plans showing a variety of artistic arrangements possible on small prop- erties. These plans are keyed and accompanied by planting lists which have been tested in actual practice. 1 — The Importance of All Careful Planning. — Six halftone illustrations showing completed results. 2— Locating the House. — Seven line drawings of studies of house locations on small lots and one showing best exposure for the house in its relation to the sun. 3 — Arrangements of Walks, Drives and Entrances. — Twelve illustrations of approaches or entrances, ten driveways and three walks. 4 — Construction of Walks and Drives. — Twenty-five teaching illustra- tions of cement, macadam, flagstone, slate and other walks, cement approaches and gutters, bituminous and cement drive- ways, etc. 5 — Lawns and Their Grading, Con- struction and Upkeep. — Nine line cuts showing correct grading under varying conditions, and three halftone illustrations of charming lawn views properly treated. 6 — Ornamental Planting of Trees and Shrubs. — Twenty-four fine half- tones illustrating suitable backgrounds, base plantings, specimen trees for the lawn, boundary plantings, border plant- PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING is an entirely different book from any landscape treatise previously written, because it fits into your wants, considers practicability equally with the laws of art and beauty, and covers every detail. It contains 91 photographic illustrations, 67 sketches and 34 plans, 24 of which are planting plans accompanied by planting keys. The type is large and clear; the paper is enamel; the binding durable. The color plate on front cover is irresistibly attractive; it portrays a wonderful landscape scene. 276 pages. Size, 6x8 in. Prospectus on application. Price, delivery postpaid A. T. DE LA MARE CO. inc. 448 W. 37th St. New York ) $1.90