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OUT-DOOR 
 
 SPORTS FOR BOYS 
 
 (AND GIRLS) 
 
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 Edited by lynds Ef jones 
 
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 GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS, Limited 
 
 New York : 9 Lafayette Place 
 
 London, Glasgow and Manchester 
 
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IN UNIFORM STYLE. 
 
 History of the United States. 
 
 History of England. 
 
 Great African Travellers. 
 
 Out-Door Sports for Boys {and 
 Girls). 
 
 In-Door Games for Girls {and 
 Boys). 
 
 Each 160 pages, quarto. With numerous 
 illustrations. Boards, lithographed double 
 cover, each, 75 cents. 
 
 GEORGE ROUTLEDGE & SONS, Limited. 
 
 New York : 9 Lafayette Place , 
 London, Glasgow and Manchester. 
 
 Copyrighted, 1890, by Joseph L. Blamirk. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 It is, perhaps, needless to say that no attempt has been made in this volume to 
 include every form of out-door recreation with which boys and girls amuse themselves 
 during vacation or in play-time. Only such games as have proved their popularity, and 
 only such sports as seem especially adapted to the taste of young Americans, have here been 
 described. To have attempted more than this — to have endeavored to make it a complete 
 manual of open-air pastimes — would have resulted in a volume so bulky and unwieldy as 
 to have destroyed its real usefulness and defeated the main purpose of its preparation. 
 No amusement, however, of assured merit, or which would be naturally looked for in such 
 a book has, it is believed, been omitted, and a few games have been included which are 
 but little known in this country, though they are favorites in other parts of the world. 
 
 In making the selection the wants of every age have been considered, and the young- 
 est child as well as the oldest has been regarded. Different dispositions and temperaments 
 have also been provided for, and the weaker ones will find that they have not been passed 
 by in favor of those who are stronger. The aim has been to afford healthy out-door 
 recreation for all, whatever may be their sex, age, or robustness. 
 
 As it is not to be supposed that any one person could understand all games equally well, 
 
 different authorities have been consulted and freely quoted in the various descriptions here 
 
 given. This especially applies to sports of foreign origin. By this means greater exactness 
 
 has been obtained, so that the rules and conditions of play here laid down can in every case 
 
 be implicitly and absolutely relied upon. 
 
 LYNDS E. JONES. 
 Brooklyn, N. Y., 1890. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Base-Ball i 
 
 Cricket 7 
 
 Foot-Ball 16 
 
 Lacrosse 24 
 
 Lawn Tennis 28 
 
 Croquet 35 
 
 Golf 38 
 
 Curling 43 
 
 Polo 45 
 
 Archery 47 
 
 Fencing 49 
 
 Skating 53 
 
 Roller-Skating 56 
 
 Ice-Boating 57 
 
 Skating-Wings 58 
 
 Tobogganing 60 
 
 Snow-Shoeing 62 
 
 Horseback-Riding 64 
 
 Driving 68 
 
 Bicycling 71 
 
 Swimming 76 
 
 Rowing 80 
 
 Sailing 86 
 
 Canoeing 89 
 
 Miniature Yachting 92 
 
 Fishing 93 
 
 Bowling 97 
 
 Rackets 99 
 
 Bowls loi 
 
 Athletics 102 
 
 Training 102 
 
 AValking 104 
 
 PACK 
 
 Athletics. — Continued. 
 
 Running , 105 
 
 Jumping 106 
 
 Leaping 108 
 
 Climbing a Board 109 
 
 Climbing the Pole 109 
 
 Climbing the Rope no 
 
 Climbing Trees no 
 
 The Giant Stride no 
 
 The Trapeze 112 
 
 Hare and Hounds, or Paper Chase .. 115 
 
 Playground Games 118 
 
 Skittles 118 
 
 Knur and Spell 118 
 
 Fungo 119 
 
 Hand-Ball 119 
 
 Cap-Ball 120 
 
 Hockey (or Shinney) 120 
 
 Hole-Ball 121 
 
 Two Old Cat 121 
 
 Trap Ball 121 
 
 Balloon Ball (Pallone) 122 
 
 Dog-Stick and Splent 122 
 
 The Cross-Bow 123. 
 
 Quoits 123 
 
 Lawn Billiards 124 
 
 Ring-Toss 125 
 
 The Boomerang 125 
 
 Throwing the Javelin 125 
 
 Les Graces 126 
 
 Battledore and Shuttlecock 127 
 
 The Sling 127 
 
IV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Playground Games. — Continued. 
 
 The Cleft-Stick 127 
 
 The Pea-Shooter and Putty-Blower . . 128 
 
 The Catapult 128 
 
 Prisoner's Base 129 
 
 Tip-Cat 129 
 
 Leap-Frog 130 
 
 Pollow My Leader 130 
 
 Hop Scotch 130 
 
 Duck and Drake 132 
 
 Tag 132 
 
 I Spy the Wolf 133 
 
 Hide and Seek, or Whoop 133 
 
 Jingle-Ring 133 
 
 Bound Hands 133 
 
 Playground Games. — Continued. 
 
 Bull in the Ring 134 
 
 Sling the Monkey 134 
 
 Baste the Bear 134 
 
 Dropping the Handkerchief 134 
 
 Drawing the Oven 135 
 
 Fly the Garter 135 
 
 Spanish Fly 135 
 
 Cock-Fighting 136 
 
 Jump, Little Nag- Tail 136 
 
 Winding the Clock 136 
 
 Kites 137 
 
 Marbles 138 
 
 Tops 141 
 
 Hoops 143 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS 
 
 BASE-BALL. 
 
 There is probably no game 
 played throughout the world 
 which affords as much pleas- 
 ure to so great a number of 
 people as the game of base- 
 ball. It is the national game 
 of America and there is 
 scarcely a city, town or vil- 
 lage in the United States in 
 which cannot be found at 
 least one club. Though 
 heretofore less known abroad 
 it has of late steadily been growing more popular 
 in other countries, and when American teams now 
 visit foreign lands their games are witnessed by con- 
 stantly increasing crowds of visitors. Boys and 
 men both play it and are equally absorbed in 
 watching finely contested matches. This interest 
 is not confined to the young, but is shared as well 
 by older persons, who are often found among the 
 most enthusiastic spectators of the sport. Nor are 
 ladies absent from the field when pennants are to 
 be striven for or championships decided, though 
 naturally, as it is a game in which they take no 
 part themselves, they ordinarily form but a minority 
 of the on-lookers. 
 
 One reason for its great popularity is the quick- 
 ness with which it is usually played, thus prevent- 
 ing weariness in either actors or audience. An- 
 other reason for the favor in which it is held is the 
 ease with which its general principles are mastered, 
 thus enabling even the inexperienced with but little 
 coaching to intelligently follow the progress of a 
 game. Then the players for the most part are so 
 scattered over the field that the spectators can 
 readily see what each one is doing, and thus appre- 
 ciate every point that is made. Above all, it fur- 
 
 nishes so many opportunities for spirited and brill- 
 iant play that in a well-matched game the excite- 
 ment does not flag for an instant, but is maintained 
 at fever-heat from start to finish. 
 
 While a great deal of money can be spent (and is 
 spent by professional and some amateur clubs) in 
 preparing elaborate grounds, in purchasing costly 
 equipments and on the salaries and travelling ex- 
 penses of players, plenty of amusement can be had 
 from it at a very trifling outlay. The only absolute 
 essentials for the game are a bat, a ball and the use 
 of as level a tract of ground as can be obtained. 
 The larger this tract is (within reason) the better. 
 On it should be marked off (with chalk, lime or in 
 any other convenient manner) a square, the length 
 of each side being just ninety feet. At each corner 
 of this square there should be securely fastened a 
 flat stone, metal plate or canvas bag, prominent 
 enough to be easily seen from any part of the " dia- 
 mond" (the popular name of the square). These 
 four stones, plates or bags are called respectively 
 the first, second, third and home bases, the regula- 
 tion size of each of the first three being fifteen inches 
 square and that of the home base a square foot. 
 (It is not necessary that the bases should be these 
 exact dimensions excepting for professional clubs 
 or when amateurs prefer to play a very strict 
 game.) 
 
 Eighteen players are needed for a game, and they 
 are divided into two sides of nine each. When two 
 clubs are playing against each other the nine on 
 either side are of course all members of the same 
 club. One of each side is appointed captain, and 
 he directs the playing of his men, decides in what 
 order they shall go to the bat and (unless their 
 positions have previously been determined upon, as 
 is generally the case in clubs) the place each shall 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 occupy in the field. Besides these eighteen players 
 there is ordinarily an umpire to settle all disputes 
 and doubtful points that arise during the game, and 
 two scorers (one for each side) whose duty it is to 
 keep the record. Before a game commences the 
 two captains arrange, by tossing a coin (or in any 
 other chance way), which side shall first go to the 
 bat and which to the field. When three batsmen 
 have successively been put out (in the manner to be 
 described further on) their side changes places with 
 those in the field, the latter taking their turn at the 
 bat, or their " innings " as it is termed. This rota- 
 tion continues until each side has had nine innings 
 (or had three of its men put out nine times), which 
 ends the game. 
 
 The game begins by one of the batting side tak- 
 ing his bat and placing himself a little to the left 
 (or to the right if he is left-handed) of the home 
 base and facing the centre of the square. The 
 captain decides which player this shall be. The 
 others on his side have for the present nothing to 
 do but to await their turn at batting, though cus- 
 tomarily the captain and perhaps one other stand 
 near at hand to advise or coach the batsman. The 
 fielding side arrange themselves as follows : one 
 (the catcher) stands just behind the batsman ; an- 
 other (the pitcher) about fifty feet in front of the 
 batsman and of course in the square ; a third (the 
 first baseman) near the first base, but outside the 
 square and with the base between himself and the 
 
 batsman ; a fourth (the third baseman) takes a 
 similar position behind the third base ; a fifth (the 
 second baseman) stands near the second base and 
 usually to the left of it as he faces the batsman (and 
 outside the square) ; a sixth (the short stop) stands 
 between the second and third bases (but a little 
 nearer to the former than to the latter), just outside 
 the square ; the seventh (the right-fielder) at some 
 little distance back (and to the left) of the second 
 baseman ; the eighth (the centre-fielder) directly 
 back of (but at a considerable distance from) the 
 second base ; and the ninth (the left-fielder) behind 
 (and to the right of) the short stop. These places 
 are not fixed ones, but are simply given as the 
 best (and usual) ones for the men to occupy. The 
 players can all move freely about as they judge 
 advisable during the game. The pitcher, however, 
 must always be at the specified distance from the 
 batsman when throwing the ball to be batted. A 
 glance at the accompanying diagram of a base-ball 
 field will make this description of the positions 
 much clearer. It will also serve to show that the 
 first base is the one to the right of the batsman 
 as he stands at the home base facing the pitcher 
 and the third base the one to his left. The second 
 base is of course directly (and diagonally) opposite 
 to the home base. In popular language the pitcher 
 and catcher are known as " the battery ; " the three 
 basemen with the short stop as " the infield ; " and 
 the right, left and centre fielders as "the outfield." 
 
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BASE-BALL. 
 
 Every one having taken his place, the game is 
 actually opened by the pitcher throwing the ball to 
 the catcher. In doing this he must throw it di- 
 rectly over the plate, or whatever is used to mark 
 the home base, and at the height asked for by the 
 batsman. As the ball passes over the plate the 
 batsman (if he thinks he can hit it) strikes at it 
 with his bat, and, if he succeeds in hitting it and 
 the hit is a " fair ' one (i.e., not a " foul," defined 
 further on), he drops his bat and runs to the first 
 base, another batsman from the same side succeed- 
 ing him at the bat. If the one who hit the ball 
 reaches the first base without being put out he then 
 
 strike at. When a batsman has struck at the ball 
 three times without hitting it he is obliged to run 
 for the first base just as he would have done if he 
 had hit it, but he is usually put out before reaching 
 the base. Moreover if he makes no attempt to hit 
 the ball when it comes fairly over the plate and at 
 the height he requested a " strike " is called on him 
 by the umpire the same as if he had tried to hit it 
 and had failed, and on the third of such " strikes " 
 he must run for the base. (The three " strikes " 
 may consist of two unsuccessful attempts to hit 
 and one failure to try, or vice versa ; or they may 
 all consist of failures to try or all of unsuccessful 
 
 HOW TO PLAY THE POSITIONS. 
 
 runs (as opportunities offer) to the second base and 
 from there to the third base, and thence home {i.e., 
 to the home base), which scores one " run " for his 
 side ; and the side on which the greater number of 
 " runs" is made during the nine innings wins the 
 game. While the first batsman is running from 
 base to base, or is waiting on any of them for 
 chances to run, the second batsman is attempting 
 to hit the ball thrown by the pitcher to the catcher 
 in the same way the first one did. Should any bats- 
 man, on his first strike, fail to hit the ball the 
 catcher returns the ball to the pitcher, who again 
 throws it over the plate for the batsman to again 
 
 attempts.) On the other hand, when the pitcher 
 does not send the ball over the plate at the height 
 asked for, a " ball " is called on him by the umpire, 
 and when four such " balls " have been called the 
 batsman is allowed to go to the first base without be- 
 ing out, and if there is a player already on that base 
 the latter is similarly advanced to the second base. 
 (This is done because base-ball rules do not allow 
 two men to be on one base at the same time. 
 Consequently if all three-bases are filled when the 
 fourth " ball " is called, each man moves forward 
 one base without being liable to be put out, the 
 one who had been on the third base thus reach- 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ing home and scoring a run. If the second base 
 is vacant, however, a man on the third base can 
 only advance at the risk 
 of being put out, and if 
 the first base is vacant 
 the men on both second 
 and third bases run a 
 similar risk in moving.) 
 In hitting the ball the 
 batsman is permitted to 
 strike it so as to send it 
 in any direction va front 
 of him, but he must not 
 send it behind him or 
 too much to either side. 
 If the ball on being hit 
 falls outside of the lines 
 connecting the home 
 base with the fitst and 
 third bases (and the ex- 
 tensions of those lines), 
 it is called a " foul " hit 
 or a " foul " ball and no 
 runs or bases can be 
 made from it by either 
 the batsman or men on 
 bases. With this excep- 
 tion the batsman is al- 
 lowed to send the ball 
 wherever he chooses and 
 as far as his strength of 
 arm will permit. Frequently a heavy batter will 
 drive the ball so swift and far that before any of 
 the outfield can get it and send it back to infield or 
 battery the batsman will have made the complete 
 circuit of the bases and so have scored a " home 
 run" — one of the most coveted distinctions of the 
 game. Two-base hits and three-base hits {i.e., hits 
 on which the batsman can reach second or third 
 base before the ball gets back into play) are also 
 considered highly creditable to a player. A good 
 batter will often do his side the greatest service and 
 materially aid it in winning the game by judiciously 
 sending the ball to the part of the field furthest re- 
 moved from bases occupied by his fellow-players, 
 thus enabling them to advance themselves and per- 
 haps to get home and so score. If, to do this, he 
 sacrifices his own chances of making bases or a run 
 the hit is called a "sacrifice hit," and good ball- 
 playing consists as much as in anything else of a 
 willingness on the part of individuals thus to sub- 
 ordinate themselves and to help their associates for 
 the common good. 
 
 PITCHER. 
 
 But a man may be a good batter and yet, even if 
 he does not make sacrifice-hits, not score many 
 »runs, as there are various ways in which he can be 
 put out. In the first place if the ball is caught, be- 
 fore it touches the ground, either after it has been 
 hit by the batsman or on his third " strike "(whether 
 the " strikes " are unsuccessful attempts to hit or 
 failures to try), he is out. (This applies to all hits, 
 foul as well as fair. In some associations he is also 
 out on a foul hit if the ball is caught on \\.^ first re- 
 bound from the ground.) The batsman is also out 
 if the first baseman gets the ball before the former 
 reaches that base after his hit or third " strike." 
 This constantly happens even to good batters when 
 the opposing sides have expert fielders, for a ball 
 can be thrown with much greater speed than any 
 man can run, and if it can be picked up quickly 
 enough on! touching the ground after being hit it 
 can often be gotten to first base ahead of the runner. 
 
 The troubles of a batsman are by no means over 
 even if he reaches the first base in safety. He is 
 now called a " base-runner," 
 because he has to run succes- 
 sively to the second, third 
 and home bases before he 
 can score for his side. He 
 has to do this, of course, with- 
 out being put out on his way, 
 and it is his object to do it 
 as quickly as possible both in 
 order to have the bases free 
 for other players who may 
 follow him and also so as to 
 get home before three of his 
 fellow-batsmen are put out, 
 for, if he is left on a base 
 (even if it be the third base) 
 when this happens, the hit 
 and bases he has already 
 made off it count for nothing. 
 These considerations prompt 
 him to steal a base whenever . 
 he thinks he has a fair chance ' 
 of gaining it. If, in attempt- 
 ing to do this, he is touched 
 by the ball held in the hand 
 of an opponent where no part 
 of his (the base-runner's) 
 body is on a base, he is out. 
 Good base-running is nearly 
 
 (if not quite) as desirable a qualification in a ball- 
 player as heavy batting, and it decides many a 
 close contest. The situation not infrequently oc- 
 
 BATSMAN. 
 
BASE-BALL. 
 
 curs when three bases are filled at a time that two 
 men are already out. In such a case the man on 
 the third base must take every risk to get home at 
 the earliest possible moment, so as to free his base 
 for the others (who cannot advance until he gets 
 out of their way), and also so as to score before his 
 opponents have a chance to put out the player at 
 the bat. When running bases the player must touch 
 each base in regular succession, and he is not al- 
 lowed, when trying to avoid an opponent who is 
 endeavoring to touch him out with the ball, to 
 diverge more than three feet from the line connect- 
 ing the bases. It is, perhaps, hardly necessary to 
 add that an opponent must not needlessly obstruct 
 the path of a base-runner : the only circumstances 
 under which he has the right to remain in the way 
 are while attempting to touch the runner out or 
 when trying to catch the ball. 
 
 So much for batting and base-running. Now as 
 to field-work. 
 
 Of course the two great requisites in base-ball — 
 the two things wh'ch noth- 
 ing else can take the place 
 of — are skill in catching and 
 skill in throwing the ball. A 
 man who can get hold and 
 keep hold of every ball which 
 comes anywhere within his 
 reach, whether by a running 
 catch or a leaping one, by 
 hurling himself recklessly 
 forward on his face or with 
 no less indifference over on 
 his back — who can do this 
 whether the ball comes whist- 
 ling through the air three 
 feet above his head or spin- 
 ning near the earth scarcely 
 as many inches above the 
 ground, and who is equally 
 ready to take the ball wheth- 
 it is swift or slow, straight or 
 curved — such a man will be- 
 come a great player. If, be- 
 sides this, he can throw a 
 ball with unerring aim and 
 with a lightning velocity to 
 just the spot where it is 
 wanted and at just the mo- 
 ment it is needed, he may 
 become a very great player. And if, in addition to 
 these qualifications, he has the coolness and the 
 
 CATCHER. 
 
 BATSMAN. 
 
 judgment to know always what is the best play to 
 make, he will become an almost invaluable player. 
 
 Every one in the field 
 should be able to catch 
 well. Every one should 
 also be able to throw 
 well. But the highest 
 skill in throwing is ex- 
 pected of the pitcher, 
 for it is on account of 
 his exceptional ability 
 in that respect that he is 
 given the position. He 
 must have such complete 
 control over the ball that 
 he can send it exactly 
 over the plate at the 
 precise distance above 
 the ground that each 
 batsman successively 
 calls for. He should be 
 able to constantly vary 
 his method of throwing 
 from swift to slow, from 
 straight to curve, and 
 from one style of curve 
 
 to another style as will most effectually puzzle his 
 opponents. At the same time he must ever be on 
 the alert to prevent base-runners from stealing bases, 
 by promptly sending the ball, at the first indication 
 oi such an attempt on their part, to the nearest in- 
 llelders that the runners may be touched out. If 
 the ball is hit by the batsman he must always be 
 prepared to catch the man out if the ball comes at 
 all near him or to receive it from the most dis- 
 tant outfielder and at once pass it to basemen or 
 , catcher to prevent runs or bases being made from 
 the hit. When an inning is once fairly under way 
 the pitcher cannot for an instant afford to relax his 
 utmost attention to every part of the diamond. 
 Upon him rest the greatest strain and the chiefest 
 responsibility, and to him as well go the largest 
 credit and the highest reward. 
 
 Next, in popular estimation at least, to the 
 position of pitcher ranks in importance that of the 
 catcher. He has perhaps a greater number of op- 
 portunities than any other player to put men out 
 both by catching the ball on third strikes and fouls 
 and when base-runners are attempting to get home 
 from the third base, as he is the only player on the 
 fielding side at the home base. He can also often 
 greatly assist the first baseman in putting men out 
 by getting the ball to that base ahead of the bats- 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 man. Naturally he should catch remarkably well so 
 as to hold all the balls from the pitcher, however 
 " hot " (swift) or curved they may be, as well as 
 those sent him by fielders to check home running. 
 
 The particular qualifications of the other players 
 hardly need a very extended description. The 
 special task of the infield is to stop base-running ; 
 that of the outfield to get balls which have been 
 batted to distant parts of the field back to the 
 battery and infield in the briefest possible time. It 
 follows from this that the outfield should be partic- 
 ularly expert in throwing speedy and sure balls and 
 the infield in catching them. All, however, should 
 be equally quick on the feet and equally ready to 
 ■catch a batted ball on the " fly " when the chance 
 comes to them. While positions on the battery are 
 usually considered the most enviable ones, a player 
 can make as desirable a reputation as second base- 
 man, short stop or in other fielding work as the most 
 noted pitcher or catcher. 
 
 Good all-round work and even playing are the 
 qualities most to be striven for in base-ball. A fair 
 batter who is also a fair fielder can do more for his 
 team than a heavy batter who is weak in his fielding, 
 and while sometimes a man who is a very superior 
 pitcher or catcher will be retained in pennant or 
 championship games even if he is not effective at 
 the bat, he is at any time liable to be replaced by 
 one who is his inferior in pitching or catching but 
 who excels him in batting. Aspirants for distinc- 
 tion in base-ball, therefore, should aim to improve 
 and perfect themselves in every branch of the 
 game. 
 
 m 
 
 One or two points in conclusion. The order 
 which the men on each side are first sent to the bat 
 must be maintained throughout the game. This is 
 done irrespective of innings. For example, if in the 
 first innings only five men have been to the bat 
 when the side is put out, then in the second innings 
 the other four take their turn before the first five 
 bat again. After these four have batted it is again 
 the turn of the man who first batted at the beginning 
 of the game. This order of batting is decided by 
 the captain, who has absolute authority over his 
 men during the game, subject only to the decisions 
 of the umpire. In clubs the captaincy is usually a 
 permanent oosition, but among amateurs (not for- 
 mally associated as a club) he is elected by his 
 fellow-players for each game. He is not necessarily 
 the best player on his side, though ordinarily he is 
 one of the best. He should be one of the most ex- 
 perienced and one possessing the coolest judgment 
 — a good general and an able manager. He should 
 occupy whatever position in the field he is best 
 fitted for, it by no means following that because he 
 is captain he should also be pitcher or catcher. 
 
 The bat to be used must be round in shape and 
 made entirely of wood. It should not exceed three 
 and a half feet in length nor two and a half inches 
 in diameter at the thickest part. (These are the 
 regulation dimensions.) The proper ball is one 
 made of woolen yarn, covered with leather, and 
 with a small piece of rubber (not weighing over an 
 ounce) in the centre. In circumference it may be 
 from nine to nine and a quarter inches and in weight 
 between five and five and a quarter ounces. 
 
 CURVING THE BALL. 
 
CRICKET. 
 
 CRICKET. 
 
 
 
 Loyal Britons hold cricket 
 to be as much superior to all 
 other out-door sports as pa- 
 triotic Americans regard base- 
 ball. Each is the favorite 
 game of its own nation, but 
 each also has many admirers 
 in the country of the other, 
 and matches between good 
 cricket teams in America now- 
 adays attract spectators who 
 are scarcely less enthusiastic 
 than the crowds which gather 
 to witness League or Associa- 
 tion contests. 
 The essential materials for cricket are as simple 
 . as those for our own national game. A ball, two 
 bats, two " wickets " and the use of a level piece of 
 ground fill all the requirements ; though in matches 
 gloves for the " wicket-keeper " and pads and gloves 
 for the " bowler " are desirable. The ball is about 
 the same size as a base-ball, weighing between five 
 and a half and five and three quarters ounces with 
 a circumference from nine to nine and a quarter 
 inches. But the bat is quite different from that 
 used in base-ball. Instead of being round it is rather 
 flat-shaped excepting at the handle. Its total length 
 must not exceed thirty-eight inches, of which the 
 blade (striking part) is usually twenty-five and the 
 
 GLOVES AND PAD, 
 
 handle thirteen inches. The width of the 
 blade cannot be more than four and a half 
 inches, and in thickness it (the blade) should 
 be about one inch at the edges and an inch 
 and a quarter in the centre. The back of the 
 blade is slightly rounded. 
 
 Each of the wickets consists of three round 
 pieces of wood driven a few inches into 
 the ground and projecting twenty-seven 
 inches above it. They are placed in a 
 straight line, the distance between the 
 outer edges of the two extreme ones be- 
 ing just eight inches. By this arrange- 
 ment the space between the middle and 
 each of the other " stumps " (as these 
 three uprights are called) is a little less 
 than the diameter of the ball, which is 
 thus prevented from passing between 
 them. Across the tops of the stumps 
 are laid two " bails " (pieces of wood 
 four inches long), one end of each bail 
 resting on the middle stump and the 
 other end on one of the outer stumps. 
 The bails are not in any way fastened 
 to the stumps, but simply lie lightly up- 
 on them (usually in notches or grooves 
 cut on the tops of the stumps), in order 
 that they may be easily knocked off 
 when stump or bail is hit by the ball ; 
 for one of the great objects in cricket 
 is to get a " wicket down " by knocking 
 off one of the bails. The second wicket 
 is placed opposite (and parallel) to the 
 first one and at a distance from it of 
 twenty-two yards. 
 
 Connecting the stumps a line should ti^i-- 
 be drawn (marked in any convenient man- 
 ner) extending three feet beyond each end of 
 the wicket. This is called the "bowling 
 crease." At each end of the bowling crease 
 (and crossing it at right angles) lines (known 
 as " return creases ") should be drawn to the 
 " popping crease," which is another line ex- 
 tending indefinitely across the field four feet 
 in front of (and parallel to) the wicket. These 
 various lines bound the " batsman's ground," 
 and he is liable to be put out at any time 
 when neither one of his feet nor his bat 
 (held in his hand) is touching the ground 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 within their Hmits. The different ways in which he 
 can be put out will be shown presently. (In speak- 
 ing of the front of a wicket the side nearest the 
 other wicket is of course meant.) 
 
 The contest at cricket is between two sides of 
 eleven men each, with two umpires (one near each 
 wicket) to decide disputes and to take general 
 charge of the game. There are two innings (or 
 turns at the bat) for each side in rotation ; an in- 
 nings lasting until all the eleven have been to the 
 bat and until ten of them have been put out. As 
 
 himself behind one of the wickets with one foot 
 (when delivering the ball) back of the bowling 
 crease and between the return creases ; another (the 
 " wicket-keeper ") behind the opposite wicket ready 
 to receive the ball if the batsman fails to hit it ; 
 a third (the " long stop ") back of the wicket-keeper, 
 to field balls passing both the batsman and wicket- 
 keeper ; and the other eight at " short-slip," " long- 
 slip," "short-leg," "long-leg," "point," "cover- 
 point," " mid-of? " and " mid-on " — the o^side being 
 at the right-hand of the batsman as he faces the 
 
 8 inches wide. 
 
 BOWLING CREASE. 
 
 [6 feet 8 inches in length. 
 
 BATSMAN'S 
 
 BOWLING CREASE 
 THE BLOOKvHt 
 
 GROUND 
 
 LINE OF POPPING CREASE— UNLIMITED IN LENGTH. 
 
 WICKET. 
 
 in base-ball the playing of each side is directed by a 
 captain, chosen from among his eleven, and, also 
 as in that game, the two captains decide by a toss- 
 up the choice of innings. When this is settled the 
 captain of the team which is to have the first in- 
 nings sends two of his men to bat and they accord- 
 ingly place themselves within the " crease " lines, 
 one at each wicket. They face each other and, of 
 course, are both between the two wickets, standing 
 usually a little to one side so that their bodies will 
 not be in the way of the ball as it is bowled from 
 wicket to wicket. The other nine of their side are 
 only spectators of the game until summoned to 
 take the place of batsmen who have been put out. 
 On the fielding side one (the " bowler ") places 
 
 bowler and the on side at his left-hand. It is the 
 duty of each fielder to catch (if possible) any batted 
 ball that flies near him, and to get the ball when- 
 ever it comes his way back to bowler or wicket- 
 keeper as speedily as he can. The positions of the: 
 fielders will be found on the cricket diagram (see 
 page 9). It should be remembered, however, that the 
 places as iharked are only relative to each other ; 
 the exact spot each man occupies depending upon 
 the peculiarities of the players who are bowling and 
 batting at the time. For instance if the batsmaj 
 is known to be a heavy hitter and likely to send 
 the ball a considerable distance, the fielders should 
 stand further off than they otherwise would. Or 
 if the bowler is able to deliver swift, curved balls^ 
 
CRICKET. 
 
 such as a batsman would have difficulty in hitting the return creases, " no ball " is called by the um- 
 squarely, the fieldsmen should draw in closer so as pire; and "no ball" is also called if he jerks or 
 to increase their chances of catching the striker out. throws the ball instead of bowling, tossing or pitch- 
 
 LCNG-LEG/ 
 
 The Field Positions 
 
 LONG-STOP 
 
 COVER-POINT 
 
 MJD-OFF 
 
 When everything is in readiness the bowler be- 
 gins the game by bowling, tossing or pitching the ball 
 at the opposite wicket, so as, if possible, to knock off 
 one (or both) of the bails. If in doing this neither one 
 of his feet is behind the bowling crease and within 
 
 ing it. He can run with the ball from any distance 
 he chooses behind the bowling crease, provided that, 
 when he delivers the ball one foot at least is behind 
 that crease and within the return creases. If he 
 delivers the ball so high or so much to one side that. 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 in the opinion of the umpire, it is beyond the reach 
 of the opposite batsman (when the latter is in his 
 ground), a " wide ball " is called. After bowling 
 the ball at the same wicket four times (under some 
 rules five and under other rules six times), exclusive 
 of " no balls " and " wide-balls," an " over " is called 
 by the umpire and the ball is then bowled an equal 
 number of times to the other wicket. This alterna- 
 tion of wickets bowled at is kept up during the in- 
 nings and throughout the game. At each over, of 
 course, the fielders have to shift their ground, so 
 that similar positions will be held relative to the 
 wicket to be bowled at that had previously been oc- 
 
 nings. He can, of course, bowl every other over, 
 thus alternating at the wicket and in the field with 
 cover-point, long-stop, or any other player, so that 
 all the bowling during the game may be done by two 
 men from each team. 
 
 During the first over, or until a run is made, the 
 batsman at the bowler's wicket has nothing to do 
 but to keep within his ground, stand at whichever 
 side of the wicket the bowler directs (so as not to 
 interfere with the bowling), and be on the look-out 
 for opportunities to make runs. It is his fellow- 
 batsman that has the real work to do. The latter 
 has, in the first place, to guard his wicket from be- 
 
 FIELD POSITIONS. 
 
 cnpied relative to the -former one. It is not essen- 
 tial, however, that the individuals shall all retain 
 the same zxAasX positions ; in fact it is quite custom- 
 ary for many of them to exchange positions on the 
 alternation of overs (" long-leg " with " mid-on," 
 " long-slip " with " mid-off " for examples), in order 
 to economize the time which would otherwise be 
 used in frequent crossings between distant points 
 of the field. The same player generally serves as 
 wicket-keeper throughout the game, but the bowler 
 is usually changed with every over ; in fact the rules 
 do not permit of his bowling more than two overs 
 in succession, nor can he change ends (i.e., wickets 
 at which he bowls) oftener than twice in one in- 
 
 ing put down (that is, having one or both of the bails 
 knocked off) by the ball bowled at it. This is 
 always his first and greatest duty. If he fails in it 
 he is "bowled out" and his hopes of distinguishing 
 himself in that innings are over. Nothing is left for 
 him to do in that event but to retire to the rear and 
 to applaud (with whatever heart he can) the play of 
 the others. Such a catastrophe he is ever on the 
 alert to prevent by interposing his bat between the 
 stumps and the ball and so diverting its course 
 away from the wicket — or " blocking the ball," as it 
 is termed. If the ball is bowled straight he can 
 easily accomplish this by placing his bat upright 
 with one end on the ground at a point called the 
 
CRICKET. 
 
 II 
 
 " block-hole " (about the length of a bat 
 and its handle in front of the middle 
 stump). But if the ball comes with a curve 
 or a twist it is not always so easy to stop it, 
 and a batsman then needs to be quick and 
 cool if he would save his wicket. 
 
 In turning the ball from the wicket the 
 batsman has to be very careful to do it only 
 with his bat, for if the ball should touch 
 any part of his body he would be out — 
 in a " leg before wicket " style as it is 
 called. This, however, only applies if the 
 ball is bowled in a straight line and when 
 it would (in the 
 umpire's opinion) 
 have hit the wick- 
 et had it not been ^— — — 
 obstructed by the 
 person of the bats- 
 man. But not only has the 
 batsman to take care that 
 the ball does not strike 
 either him or the wicket, 
 he must be at equal pains 
 that he does not hit the 
 wicket himself with foot or 
 bat, for if the bails (or 
 either of them) should get 
 carelessly knocked off in 
 this way a "hit wicket" 
 would put him out as effect- 
 ually as a " leg before wick- 
 et " or being " bowled out." 
 Or again, if unguardedly 
 he steps entirely outside of 
 his ground (that bounded 
 by the four crease lines) 
 without either one foot or his bat (held in his hand) 
 touching the earth within it, the wicket-keeper can 
 " stump " him out by knocking off one (or both) of 
 the bails with the ball or with his hand which holds 
 the ball. There are thus four ways in which a bats- 
 man while guarding his wicket can be put out unless 
 he shows the utmost watchfulness and caution. 
 
 Protecting his wicket, however, is only a part of 
 a batsman's work — the most necessary part undoubt- 
 edly, but by no means the most glorious part. While 
 it certainly prevents his opponents from getting a 
 chance to score, it not less certainly scores nothing 
 for him or for his side. To score he must make 
 " runs," and to make runs he must exchange places 
 with the batsman at the other wicket. He is at 
 liberty to try to do this whenever he chooses, but 
 
 THE RIGHT WAY TO 
 CATCH. 
 
 BOWLING. 
 
 always at the risk while doing so of being "run 
 out ; " that is, of having a wicket put down (when 
 he is out of his ground) by any of the fielding side 
 knocking off a bail with the ball or with the hand 
 holding the ball. Naturally, therefore, he does not 
 often attempt to make many runs when the bowler 
 or wicket-keeper has possession of the ball, but on 
 " wide balls " which pass the wicket-keeper and 
 long-stop he sometimes can safely run and also on 
 swift balls which similarly are not stopped in time. 
 
 WICKET-KEEPER. 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS TOR BOYS. 
 
 When one batsman runs of course the other must 
 do so as well in order to take the former's place 
 at the wicket which he leaves. Either wicket can 
 be put down when the batsmen are running (and 
 while they are ofif their ground) and either runner 
 can be put out. If a wicket is put down before 
 the two men have crossed (i.e., passed each other 
 
 .i.ViHi.M. hJliA .|r, !'i | ?'lf'"r " ''i"»t""""" *"'' 
 
 CAUGHT AND BOWLED. 
 
 in running between wickets) the one who left the 
 wicket which has been put down is out, but if they 
 have passed each other when its bails are knocked 
 off it is the one running towards it who has to 
 give up his bat. 
 
 But for most of his runs the batsman must rely 
 upon his batting. If he can hit the ball with his 
 bat as it is bowled towards his wicket and drive it 
 
 to a distant part of the field he can perhaps make 
 a number of runs before the ball is gotten back to 
 bowler or wicket-keeper. And this is where the 
 highest skill (or at least the skill which counts the 
 most) in cricket comes in. For unlike base-ball 
 (where at the best a batsman can make only one 
 complete run on a single hit ball) cricket permits a 
 striker to score as many runs (pass as 
 many times from one wicket to the 
 other) off one batted ball as he is physi- 
 cally capable of. He cannot, however, 
 make any runs if the ball is caught 
 on the fly {i.e., before it touches the 
 ground) by an opponent after it has 
 been hit, for then he is " caught out " ; 
 and, of course, both he and his fellow- 
 batsman would render themselves liable 
 to be run out if in their ambition to pile 
 up the score they should allow the ball 
 to get back to either wicket when they 
 were out of their ground. It would be 
 well to note here that a batsman is 
 at perfect liberty to strike at " no balls " 
 and that runs made from them count 
 equally with those made off fair balls. 
 But he cannot be stumped out or bowled 
 out on such balls, nor can he be stumped 
 out on " wide balls." A striker is never 
 obliged to run when he hits the ball, 
 as running is always optional with 
 him ; but it is to his advantage to do 
 so whenever he thinks he can get safely 
 to the other wicket. His fellow-bats- 
 man generally gives the cue for running, 
 as he is freer to watch for chances than 
 is the striker. 
 
 At the end of the first over, provided 
 no runs have been made during it, the 
 second batsman becomes the striker ; 
 and at the end of that over, still sup- 
 posing that no runs have been scored, 
 the first batsman has his turn again. 
 But if during an over one run should 
 be made then the other batsman be- 
 comes the striker for the remainder of 
 that over. This applies also to three, five or any odd 
 number of runs. On an even number of runs (two, 
 four, six, etc.) the same batsman remains striker 
 throughout the over. The reason for this is that 
 the batsman at the wicket bowled at is always 
 the striker. Hence, after an odd number of runs 
 the batsmen find themselves at the opposite wickets 
 from which they were at before, while even runs 
 
CRICKET. 
 
 13 
 
 leave them in the same places. It follows from 
 this that as the wicket bowled at is invariably 
 changed with each over and as the batsmen only- 
 change wickets on an odd number of runs, that at 
 the end of an over they may, or may not, be in 
 front of the same wickets they were at the start, 
 — this depending entirely upon their runs. They 
 might interchange wickets during every over for 
 many overs in succession (which would happen if 
 in each case there was an odd number of runs), 
 thus causing the same batsman to serve continu- 
 ously as striker for quite a length of time, and 
 this not infrequently occurs. 
 
 Either batsman having been put out, another 
 man is sent by the captain of the team to try his 
 luck at scoring. This continues, each batsman as 
 he is retired being replaced by another one, until ten 
 of them have been put out and one solitary man is 
 left in front of the wickets, who, for lack of a com- 
 panion, has " to carry his bat out " without having 
 had, perhaps, the chance to make a single run. 
 One batsman may remain at the wickets much 
 longer than another ; he may (and, in fact, often is) 
 able to keep his place while player after player on 
 his side is successively retired ; and he can thus 
 sometimes roll up a score greater than that of all 
 the others combined. 
 
 Besides the runs (between wickets) actually made 
 by a batsman, he can score for his side in other 
 ways. On every " no-ball " and " wide-ball " bowled 
 to him his team is allowed to add one to its score,- 
 provided he does not attempt to run. If he chooses 
 to run, then only the runs actually made are counted. 
 
 BATTING. 
 
 Should the fielders at any time be unable to find the 
 ball after it has been batted and one of them should 
 call " lost ball," running is then stopped and the 
 batsman is credited with six runs — unless he had 
 really made more than that number before "lost 
 
 RUN OUT. 
 
14 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ball " was called, in which event he counts what he 
 had made. He is also given five runs whenever a 
 fieldsman intentionally stops the ball with his hat or 
 any other article. 
 
 In keeping the score of a batsman, a separate 
 record is made of the runs off batted balls, "wide 
 Dalls," " no-balls," " byes " and " leg-byes." Byes 
 are runs obtained from balls which pass close to the 
 wicket without touching the striker and which the 
 umpire had not previously called " wide " or " no- 
 balls " ; and " leg-byes" are runs on similar balls 
 which Cxi, touch the striker. (Runs of course can 
 
 the opposing teams. For a similar reason, when 
 the side that bats first fails to make as much in its 
 two innings as its opponents made in their first 
 innings, the latter win the game without batting a 
 second time. With these exceptions, a full gam.e 
 of cricket always consists of two innings for each 
 side. By mutual agreement, however, it can be 
 shortened to one complete innings, and sometimes 
 bad weather or want of time renders this absolutely 
 necessary. As a full game of cricket often lasts 
 two (and not seldom three) days, accidents will fre- 
 quently end it before it can be played entirely out. 
 
 ^^t^^^^^iM^ 
 
 PITCHING. 
 
 only be made on " leg-byes " when the ball is not 
 bowled straight, as otherwise the striker would be 
 out, "leg before wicket.") Though the records of 
 these various kinds of runs are kept separately, they 
 all count equally in making up the score of a side ; 
 but the batsman personally only gets the credit of 
 runs made off batted balls. 
 
 Should the side that went to the bat second be 
 eighty or more runs behind its opponents at the 
 end of the first complete innings, it goes first to the 
 bat in the second innings. If then it fails to gain a 
 lead its opponents do not take their second innings, 
 as they have won the game without it. This regu- 
 lation helps to save a needless waste of time when 
 the first innings discloses much disparity between 
 
 and then only the score of the first innings is 
 counted. 
 
 When it is impossible or difficult to muster twenty- 
 two players for double-wicket cricket, boys will find 
 the single-wicket game an excellent substitute for 
 the regular one, and it will moreover afford them 
 capital practice in training to become expert crick- 
 eters. Any number over two can play, but at least 
 five are desirable. One of these bowls, another 
 keeps the wicket, the third is batsman, and the 
 others (if there are any) act as fielders. Should six 
 or more be playing they can be divided into two 
 teams ; but with a smaller number it is best for all 
 to unite against whoever is batsman for the time 
 
CRICKET. 
 
 IS 
 
 being, and each score independently of the others. 
 In such a case, the batsman when he is put out be- 
 comes wicket-keeper (or goes to the field) ; the 
 wicket-keeper takes the place of the bowler, and 
 the latter has a turn at the bat ; all the players thus 
 rotating in the various positions. A stump is 
 driven into the ground where the second wicket is 
 usually placed, and the bowler delivers the ball from 
 this stump. Another stump is placed half way be- 
 tween the bowler's stump and the wicket (but a 
 
 little to one side, so as to be out of the way of the ball 
 as bowled), and the batsman must run to this stump, 
 touch it with his bat and return to his own ground 
 in order to score. Generally the same rules apply 
 in single-wicket cricket as in the full game, except 
 that with less than five on a side "byes" are not 
 allowed, the batsman cannot be stumped out, and 
 bounds are set (twenty-two yards each side of the 
 wicket) within which a struck ball must land to 
 entitle the batsman to make runs. 
 
 THE BOYS GAME 
 
i6 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 FOOT-BALL. 
 
 If cricket is the game of 
 Great Britain and base- 
 ball that of the United 
 States, foot-ball belongs 
 equally to both countries, 
 and is as great a favorite 
 with the students in Amer- 
 ican colleges as among 
 those In the English schools. There are a few dif- 
 ferences in the way it is played on the two sides of 
 the Atlantic, but they are only minor ones, the 
 essential principles remaining everywhere the same. 
 What is here described is the American game. 
 
 At each of the two further ends of a field, three 
 hundred and thirty feet long and one hundred and 
 sixty feet wide, are erected two posts, eighteen and 
 a half feet apart, and at least twenty feet high. Ten 
 feet above the ground 
 a cross-bar is fast- 
 ened to the posts, the 
 whole forming what 
 is known as a "goal." 
 Each goal is in the 
 centre of its " goal- 
 line " (the name of 
 the shorter boundary 
 of the field), and conse- 
 quently distant a little 
 over seventy feet from 
 the "touch" (or side) 
 lines, as the longer 
 boundaries are called. 
 Across the field at in- 
 tervals of five yards 
 white lines (parallel 
 to the goal-lines) are 
 marked for the purpose 
 of determining dis- 
 tances and positions. 
 There should of course 
 be some little space 
 outside of the boun- 
 dary (goal and touch) 
 lines, to allow room lor 
 play. That back of the 
 goal-lines is called " in 
 goal" ir "goal 
 ground " ; that outside 
 
 TOUCH IN 
 GOAL 
 
 IN GOAL 
 
 CROSS BAR 
 
 1 ft. to Cross Bar 
 
 z 
 
 o 
 
 > 
 
 TOUCH IN 
 GOAL 
 
 iSlit.-wide 
 
 IN TOUCH 
 GROUND 
 
 " 
 
 ■a 
 
 IN TOUCH 
 GROUND 
 
 FIVE YARD LINES 
 
 
 
 
 LINE OF KICK OUT 
 
 PLACE OF KICK OFF 
 
 1 * 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ICO leet wide 
 
 
 DIAGRAM OF FOOT-BALL GROUND. 
 
 of the touch-lines " in touch 
 ground " ; and that at each 
 corner beyond the intersec- 
 tion of the goal and touch- 
 lines "touch in goal." 
 
 Two sides of eleven men 
 each face each other in this 
 field with a soft egg-shaped 
 hall (its greatest circumfer- 
 ence about twenty-eight inches) between them, 
 and the struggle in foot-ball is to get possession 
 of this ball so as to kick it (under certain restric- 
 tions) over the cross-bar and between the posts of 
 the opposite goal, that is, of the goal which the 
 side faces at the opening of the game. Five points 
 are credited to a team whenever one of its men thus 
 kicks a goal/rom the field. Four points are made 
 
 when a player touches 
 the ground back of his 
 opponents' goal with 
 the ball, or makes a 
 "touch-down," as this 
 is termed. After a 
 " touch-down," the side 
 making it has the priv- 
 ilege of a " try at goal " 
 without interference 
 from its opponents. 
 This is done by carry- 
 ing the ball back into 
 the field (any distance 
 desired, usually about 
 twenty paces), on a 
 straight line (i. e., one 
 crossing the goal-line 
 at right angles) from 
 the point where the 
 touch-down was made, 
 and then attempting 
 to kick it over the goal. 
 The best kicker on the 
 side makes this at- 
 tempt, as it is not nec- 
 essary that it should 
 be done by the same 
 player who made the 
 touch-down. Should 
 he succeed in kickino- 
 
FOOT-BALL. 
 
 17 
 
 it over the goal, two points are scored in addition 
 to the four from the touch-down. (Another way of 
 " trying at goal " from a touch-down is by a " punt 
 
 out," which will be described further on in this ar- 
 ticle in connection with "fair catches.") Besides 
 these three ways of scoring (a touch-down, a goal 
 obtained from a touch-down, and a goal obtained 
 from a field kick), there is a fourth way, called a 
 "safety touch-down," made by a player touching 
 the ground back of his own goal with the ball in 
 order to protect it from the enemy. This counts 
 two against the side making it. 
 
 Unlike most other field sports, a game of foot-ball 
 always lasts a fixed length of time, and it is the side 
 that scores the most points during this period that 
 wins the match. One hour and a half is the time 
 set (exclusive of all unavoidable delays from settling 
 disputes, accidents, intermission, etc.), divided into 
 two equal periods of forty-five minutes each, and at 
 the end of each half time play has to stop as soon 
 thereafter as the ball becomes " dead " in any of the 
 ■ways to be described further on — unless a " touch-* 
 
 the choice of " kick-off," or first chance at the ball. 
 When a goal is made, the side losing the goal has 
 the following " kick-off." But in the second half, 
 the '■ kick-off" always goes to the side which did 
 not have it at first. Goals are exchanged at the end 
 of the half, the choice in the first place commonly 
 being given to the team which did not have the 
 kick-off. 
 
 When the game begins, the ball is placed on the 
 ground exactly in the centre of the field, and each 
 of the two teams (in its own half of the ground) 
 range themselves in four lines in front of their goal. 
 Nearest to the ball are the " rushers," seven in num- 
 ber, stretched across the field in a line parallel to 
 the goal-line, the two end men usually hanging a 
 little behind the others, so as to the -more readily 
 tackle any opponent who may break through the 
 
 down" has just been made, when a " try at goai " 
 can follow. At the opening of the game the two 
 captains decide by a toss-up which side is to have 
 
 COLLARED. 
 
 middle of the line. The heaviest work in the game 
 comes upon the rushers, and they should therefore 
 be the largest and strongest players on the side, 
 but they need speed and agility as well as weight 
 and muscle. From his place in the line their leader, 
 who should be their most powerful man, is often 
 called " centre rush." Directly back of the centre 
 rush, in a line by himself, stands the " quarter-back," 
 usually of smaller build than the rushers, but an 
 active, alert player, who can quickly pass the ball to 
 the " half-backs" Vi'ho are stationed (at some dis- 
 tance apart) behind him. Occasionally the quarter- 
 back will stand actually in the rush line, making as 
 it were an eighth rusher. The half-backs (two in 
 number) form the third line of each side, and they 
 ought to be the best runners and dodgers in their 
 team, as either is expected when he once gets hold 
 
i8 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 of the ball to be able to carry it well forward into the 
 enemy's territory. But, above all, they should be 
 
 X 
 
 60AL 
 
 F.B.X 
 
 H.B.X 
 
 X H.B. 
 
 X Q.3. 
 
 R. X 
 
 K R. 
 
 KICKOFFO 
 
 X R, 
 
 X G.B 
 
 H.B. X 
 
 X H>B. 
 
 It F.B. 
 
 GOAL 
 
 Struggling to get control of the ball and to keep it 
 away from their own goal and to carry it towards 
 the opposite goal. To an uninitiated spectator they 
 seem almost continuously to be in a hopeless 
 tangle. 
 
 Three kinds of kicks are defined in foot-ball : a 
 " place-kick," when the ball is lying on the ground 
 at the time it is kicked ; a " punt," when the ball is 
 dropped and kicked before it touches the ground ; 
 and a " drop-kick," when the ball is kicked as it 
 rebounds from the ground after being dropped. 
 (As a matter of fact, the ball in a place-kick, instead 
 of actually lying on the ground, is held a very little 
 above the ground by another player until the kicker 
 is ready ; it is then put down by the one holding it, 
 and instantly kicked by the other.) The kick-off 
 must be a place-kick, and as it is not allowable (nor 
 would it be very easy) to make a goal from a kick-ofif, 
 the captain of the team who won the toss-up usually 
 starts the game by kicking the ball gently back 
 (" dribbles " it, as it is called) to his own side, so as 
 to give one of his half-backs an opportunity, if pos- 
 sible, to run with it through or around the opposing 
 rushers towards the enemy's goal. If the captain, 
 instead of thus sending the ball back, should vigor- 
 ously kick it forward, it would probably at once 
 come into possession of his opponents, and thus 
 
 DIAGRAM OF FOOT-BALL POSITIONS. 
 
 Strong and expert kickers, as the chances of making 
 ft goal come to them oftener than to any other play- 
 ers. The fourth line comprises only one man, the 
 " full-back," who stands closest to the goal in the 
 rear of all the rest. His especial duty is to guard 
 the goal by driving the ball back into the field 
 whenever it comes uncomfortably near his goal- 
 line. These various positions are only held at the 
 beginning of each half, or after a goal has been 
 kicked, or at certain other stages of the game when 
 it is necessary for the players to re-form their lines 
 and to begin as it were afresh. Most of the time 
 the men are surging back and forth over the field. 
 
 DEFENDING THE GOAL. 
 
 the advantage of the kick-off would quickly be lost 
 to the side which had won it. The kick-off need 
 

 'f^p 
 
 te' '" 
 
 jgig&ilteiiSgg 
 
 FOOTBALL. 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 not be made by the captain of the team ; in fact it 
 is usually made by the centre rush, who may or may 
 not be the captain ; and instead of actually kicking 
 
 HEADING. 
 
 the ball back, he may (and often does) give it a very 
 slight kick forward, and then seize it himself and 
 pass it to half-back. The opposing side must re- 
 main at least ten yards away from the ball until 
 it has been kicked, and then they are at liberty to 
 rush forward to get the ball if they can. The rush- 
 ers of the side having the kick-ofi can stand close 
 up to the ball. 
 
 Should the half-back (or other player) who gets 
 the ball on the kick-off succeed in stealing through 
 or past the opposing rushers — and he may dodge or 
 elude them in any way he chooses (by doubling, by 
 running forward or back or to one side or the other) 
 provided he stays within the touch-lines — he can 
 take his chances either of securing a goal by a place- 
 or drop-kick (but not by a punt), or of making a 
 touch-down and then of obtaining a goal from that. 
 It is very probable, however, that before he can do 
 either one of these things he will be intercepted and 
 caught (" tackled ") by some opponent, who may 
 grasp him anywhere between shoulders and hips, 
 but who must not attempt to catch him by head, 
 neck or legs. When the runner sees his danger and 
 that he cannot escape, he can pass (throw) the ball 
 to any one else on his side who is back, or at either 
 side of him (he is not allowed to pass it forward), 
 and the latter can try his luck at running with it, or 
 in turn can pass it to some one else (not in front of 
 him), who is a better runner or is at the moment 
 
 better placed for running. But if the runner is 
 fairly caught with the ball in his possession, he can 
 only retain exclusive control of it and be freed from 
 the tackier by dropping it, marking with his heel 
 the spot where it fell and crying " down " — that is, 
 the holder of the ball is supposed to do all this. In 
 reality he generally keeps the ball and simply calls 
 " down." Then results what is known as a " scrim- 
 mage." The ball is placed on the spot where it fell, 
 or where down was called, and the two sides form 
 lines (parallel to the goal-lines) close to the ball, each 
 with the ball between itself and the opposite goal. 
 The centre rush (termed in a scrimmage the " snap- 
 per-back ") of the team whose runner called " down " 
 then quickly " snaps " (kicks) the ball back to one 
 of his side, his opponents throw themselves forward 
 to seize it and the ball is again in play. All of the 
 men are massed so closely together in a scrimmage 
 that it takes very sharp work to get or to retain 
 control of the ball. The men, however, have to 
 show great care that they keep on their own side 
 (back of the ball) until it is snapped back, for if they 
 are detected by the umpire with even their heads or 
 shoulders over the line they are " off side." They 
 are also "off side" whenever in the course of the 
 game the ball is kicked or touched by any of their 
 side between them and their own goal-line. While 
 off side they can take no part in the game until (i) 
 the ball has been kicked by an opponent, (2) or un- 
 til it has touched an opponent, (3) or until one of 
 
 A NASTY JAR. 
 
 their own side runs in front of them (i.e., between 
 them and the opposite goal) either with the ball 
 or after having kicked the ball from some place be- 
 
FOOT-BALL. 
 
 hind {i.e., between them and their own goal). Any- 
 one of these acts puts them " on side," and they can 
 resume play. The theory of "off" and "on" side 
 is that men must only play behind X^t, ball, and that 
 when they allow themselves to get in front of it, their 
 privileges are suspended until some one of the events 
 mentioned above occurs to restore their rights. No 
 man, however, can become off side in his own goal 
 ground (back of his own goal-line). Players are so 
 constantly forced to be at times off side in a sharply 
 contested match, that often it is practically impos- 
 sible to keep track of their movements, and to de- 
 termine whether or not they are on side. If a man 
 attempts to take part in the game while off side, a 
 foul is declared, as is also done when one intention- 
 ally delays the game or takes hold of an opponent 
 who has not the ball in his possession. The penalty 
 
 and running with him, thus forming a sort of body- 
 guard which their opponents may not find it easy 
 to break through. If a player, tackling the holder 
 of the ball, can get his arms around it or otherwise 
 secure an actual grasp of it with both hands, he can 
 cry "held," and then a scrimmage follows, the same 
 as if " down " had been called by his opponent — the 
 side which had the ball, however, snapping it back. 
 Held is generally called when the tackier finds him- 
 self unable either to wrest the ball from its pos- 
 sessor, or to prevent the latter from advancing with 
 it; down being called when the one with the ball 
 fears it will be taken from him, or when he finds his- 
 further progress stopped. 
 
 Care has to be constantly taken that the ball is 
 not thrown or kicked over a touch-line, or that the 
 man running with it does not step with even one 
 
 A FAST FORWARD GAME. 
 
 for a foul is a " down " for the opponents if they 
 have not the ball ; if they have it they are allowed 
 to advance with it five yards. 
 
 If an opponent tackling the holder of the ball can 
 get control of it before its guardian cries " down," 
 he can similarly pass it to one of his fellows, or run 
 with it, or kick it, or in any other lawful manner 
 seek to advance it towards the other goal. His own 
 side can materially aid him sometimes in this task, 
 not only by holding themselves in readiness to re- 
 ceive and pass the ball, but also by conveniently 
 getting in the way of opponents who are trying to 
 tackle him. All striking, pushing, pulling, kicking 
 and running against others, however, are strictly 
 forbidden, and as already stated, only the one with 
 the ball can be grasped or caught. The rushers of 
 a team can on occasions greatly help their half-back 
 who is carrying the ball, by partly surrounding him 
 
 foot outside the touch bounds, for if either of these 
 things occurs, the ball at once becomes " in touch " 
 and is " dead." (A ball is dead whenever for the 
 moment it is out of play, as when down is called, or 
 a goal kicked, or a touch-down made.) Thereupon 
 the player who secures (or has) the ball when it goes 
 into touch brings it back to the point where it 
 crossed the line. He can then (i) throw it into the 
 field at right angles to the line; or (2) he can bound 
 it in or touch it in with both hands (always at right 
 angles to the line), and then run with it, or throw it, 
 or kick it back ; or (3) he can carry it into the field 
 any distance not over fifteen yards (still on a line 
 at right angles to the touch-line), and then put it 
 down for a scrimmage. If he does not throw it out 
 at right angles the first time, he must throw it 
 again. If he fails on three attempts, the ball goes 
 to his opponents. Sometimes the scrimmage takes 
 
22 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 place close to the touch-line. In such a case the 
 lines have to be formed extending from the ball into 
 the field, as the men cannot play outside of the touch 
 bounds. The centre rushers stand at the end of the 
 line with the ball between them, and the snapper- 
 back sends it along back of his men, being careful 
 that it does not get " in touch " again while doing 
 so. In no scrimmage is either the snapper-back, or 
 the opponent opposite to him allowed to seize and 
 run with the ball until it has touched another play- 
 er after being snapped back. Should the snapper- 
 bacli be off side in snapping back the ball, he must 
 
 to the touch-lines. His opponents must come no 
 nearer to him than the spot where the ball was 
 caught. A " fair catch " may also be made from 
 what is known as a "punt-out." When a touch- 
 down has been secured in the opponents' goal, 
 instead of bringing the ball out into the field for a 
 " try at goal " from a place-kick, it can be kicked 
 out with a punt by any player of the side which 
 touched it down, and from any spot behind the 
 point where it crossed the goal-line, provided it is 
 not nearer to the goal than this mark on the goal- 
 line. The object of the punter-out is to kick the ball 
 
 A COLLEGE GAME. 
 
 try again ; and on a third repetition of the offence 
 the other side takes the ball. (Bringing the ball into 
 play after it has been " in touch " is called " a fair.") 
 At any time during the progress of the game a 
 man catching the ball directly from the kick of an 
 opponent (and before it has touched the ground, or 
 the body, or dress of any other player on his side), 
 can, on crying " fair catch " and marking with his 
 heel the spot, have a free kick at the ball. This can 
 be either a drop-kick, a punt, or a place-kick, and 
 can be taken from any point back of the mark he 
 made (termed " catcher's mark "), on a line parallel 
 
 so that one of his own side (who must all stand at 
 least fifteen feet from the goal-line) may make a fair 
 catch, and hence secure a free kick, and, if possible, 
 get a goal. Until the ball is punted, the opponents 
 must all remain on their goal-line, leaving, however, 
 a clear space of five feet on each side of the mark 
 where the ball crossed the line. If a fair catch is 
 made from a punt-out, the mark on the goal-line 
 serves as the catcher's mark, and the catcher takes 
 his free kick back of it in the field in the same way 
 he would have done had he caught the ball on an 
 opponent's kick. Should the touch-down be made 
 
FOOT-BALL. 
 
 23 
 
 in a " touch in goal " (the corner spaces outside 
 the field bounded by the touch- and goal-lines), the 
 punter's mark is the point of intersection of the 
 boundary lines. 
 
 When a safety touch-down is made the side mak- 
 ing it is obliged to kick the ball out into the field 
 from some point between its goal-line and its 
 twenty-five yards line, its opponents meanwhile 
 approaching no closer than the twenty-five yards 
 line. Should the ball on the kick-out go into touch 
 before striking a player, it must be kicked out again 
 under the same conditions, and on the third occur- 
 
 start of the game, irrespective of which won or lost 
 the last goal. 
 
 For violation of the rules (in addition to offside 
 play and other fouls already spoken of) various 
 penalties are imposed. Tripping a man or catching 
 him by the neck or legs is punished by giving the 
 opponents a free kick or advancing them twenty- 
 five yards, as they may prefer. (If, however, the 
 twenty-five yards would carry the ball across the 
 goal-line the advance is limited to half the distance 
 between the spot where the offence was committed 
 and the goal-line, and the option of a free kick is 
 
 THE RUGBY GAME, IN ENGLAND. 
 
 fence of this it passes into the possession of the 
 other side and is treated as if it had gone into 
 touch twenty-five yards from the goal where the 
 safety had been made. 
 
 Every goal kicked necessitates placing again the 
 ball in the centre of the field and re-forming the 
 lines of players as they were when the game began 
 — the kick-off, as was said before, going to the side 
 which lost the goal. At the commencement of the 
 second half the same thing is done, but the kick-off 
 is then given to the team which did not have it at the 
 
 not granted.) Unnecessary roughness and hacking 
 {i.e., kicking another on the shins) or striking with 
 the closed fist disqualifies a player from remaining 
 in the game. No one can take part in any match 
 who wears shoes with projecting nails or which have 
 iron plates on them ; nor shall any sticky or greasy 
 substance be used on the person of players. While 
 foot-ball at the best must always be rather a rough 
 game, there is no reason why it should be a brutal 
 one or that those who take part in it cannot safely 
 do so without risk of serious bodily injury. 
 
24 
 
 OUT- DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 LACROSSE. 
 
 Canada's national game is an inheritance from 
 the Indians, among whom it was a favorite sport 
 long before the whites settled in what is now the 
 Dominion. As the principal implement (next to 
 the ball) used in the game was originally shaped 
 somewhat like a bishop's crosier the French (who 
 were the first people to colonize Canada) gave it 
 the name of la crosse, which in English means "the 
 cross." The modern "crosse," however, has very 
 little resemblance to the great religious emblem, and 
 in other ways the game has altered considerably 
 since its adoption by the whites. Though it is far 
 from rivalling base-ball in American popularity it is 
 now quite generally played throughout the United 
 States, and has become a common amuse- 
 ment in many of our schools and colleges, 
 
 As in foot-ball the object of the game is to get 
 the ball through either of two goals situated at op- 
 posite ends of the field. The distance between the 
 goals must be one hundred and twenty-five yards, 
 and each goal consists of two poles, which must be 
 at least six feet high and which are planted in the 
 earth six feet apart. There is no cross-bar over 
 which the ball must be sent ; it is sufficient for it to 
 pass between the posts. The ball is of sponge 
 rubber about eight inches in circumference, and 
 the great peculiarity of the game is that this ball 
 must not be touched by the hand during the progress 
 
 of the match, but only by the crosse. (The few tri- 
 fling exceptions to this rule will be duly noted in their 
 proper place.) There is no limit set for the width of 
 the field or for the space to be used back of the goals ; 
 that depends upon the size of the tract of ground 
 available for the purpose. But it is important before 
 a game begins to mutually agree upon "bounds" 
 beyond which the ball is to be considered out of play. 
 The crosse is a piece of light wood (any length 
 desired), one end of which is crooked, or bent in a 
 curve. Across the crooked end a net is made by 
 lacing it with catgut from the tip of the crook to a 
 point about two and a half feet from the bend. In 
 its widest part this net should not be over one foot. 
 The lacing ought not to be tight as in a tennis 
 racket, but sufficiently loose to sag a little so as to 
 form a slight pocket for the ball when it rests upon 
 the net. On the other hand the lacing must be 
 tight enough to prevent its bagging and to cause 
 the net to lie flat when the ball is not on it. The 
 reason for this is that the crosse is used both for 
 throwing the ball and for carrying it, hence it is 
 necessary to have the netting firm enough to give 
 the ball an impulse when thrown from it, but not so 
 taut as to render it impossible for a skilful player 
 to carry the ball on it while running. No metal 
 whatever (screws or nails) can be used in making a 
 crosse, and to prevent one crosse from getting en- 
 tangled with another a string should be drawn from 
 the extreme outer end of the crook to some part of 
 the handle. This string is also of assistance in 
 aiding a player to carry the ball on the crosse. The 
 meshes of the net should be close enough together 
 to avoid any chance of the ball slipping (or becoming 
 
 /rN 
 
 ^■M^ 
 -^, 
 
 ^^..^^--^i^S^a^^bSr-'--;;^:;'-*"' 
 
 :--^-: 
 
LACROSSE. 
 
 25 
 
 caught) within them. If, notwithstanding this pre- 
 caution, the ball should get caught in the netting 
 during a game, it must not be removed by the hand, 
 but only by striking the crosse on the ground. 
 
 Each side in a lacrosse match consists of twelve 
 players scattered over the field in pairs, every man 
 of one team (excepting only the goal-keepers) being 
 stationed by an opponent. In the middle of the 
 field, with the ball (at the outset of the game) on 
 the ground between them, are the two " centres," 
 each with his right side to his own goal. Near 
 each goal stands " point," and a little way off " cover 
 
 commonly they are described simply as fielders. 
 On the diagram here given of a lacrosse field the 
 
 p 
 
 GOAL 
 
 
 :^ 
 
 POINT 
 
 
 HOME* 
 
 COVER POINT 
 
 FIELD 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 SND HOME 
 
 3RD HOME* 
 
 •FIELD 
 FIELD 
 
 
 
 '''^'-°«f'?eld 
 
 OENTREO 
 
 
 • CENTRE 
 
 
 • FIELD 
 FIELD 
 
 ofield 
 
 FIELD* 
 
 O3RD 
 FIELD* 
 
 HOME 
 
 02ND HOME 
 
 • o^.MTaOHOME 
 COVER POINT POINT* 
 
 • 
 
 GOAL 
 
 ^ 
 
 DIAGRAM OF A LACROSSE FIELD. 
 
 The marks 9 aftd Q represent players of the respec- 
 tive sides. 
 
 point," each accompanied by an opponent. These 
 with a "goal-keeper" (who stays close to his goal 
 to defend it) for each team fill the principal positions 
 — the other players comprising " the field." The 
 opponents (companions) of point and cover-point 
 are known as " home " and " second home " (or 
 "inside home" and "outside home") and some- 
 times the remaining twelve men are designated as 
 "first defence," "second defence" and "third 
 defence," and " first attack," " second attack " and 
 " third attack " of their respective sides, but more 
 
 THE TUSSLE. 
 
 goal poles are represented with flags attached. 
 These are a great convenience in the game as they 
 show more clearly the goals to the players. It is 
 also well for the men of each team to all wear alike 
 some marked color about their dress in order to en- 
 able the umpire and the spectators to more easily 
 distinguish between contestants. Similar caps or 
 blouses will answer as well as elaborate uniforms. 
 
 When the men have all taken their places, the two 
 centres kneel, and each, holding his crosse in both 
 hands, lays it with its back close to the ball (its 
 wood side on the ground), as shown in the follow- 
 ing cut. The umpire then calls " play " or " go," and 
 both men tussle for possession of the ball. In doing 
 this neither of them must grasp the person or crosse 
 of his opponent, nor must he touch the ball with his 
 hands, nor can he catch the other's crosse under his 
 arms or with his legs, nor is he allowed to strike, 
 kick or trip the other. He may, however, strike 
 his opponent's crosse with his own crosse, so as to 
 
 PLAY. 
 
 try to dislodge the ball, and shouldering (from the 
 side only) is also permitted. (These rules apply 
 
26 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 generally to personal conduct in all stages of the 
 game.) The object of the tussle is to pick up the 
 ball with the crosse, so as to run with it (on the 
 crosse) towards the opposite goal, or to throw it 
 (only with the crosse always) towards that goal. 
 Each of the centres while trying to do this is also 
 striving to prevent his antagonist from doing the 
 same thing, two working for opposite goals. The 
 other players in the meanwhile should keep their 
 places, waiting for the ball to come near them. If 
 it should be pushed, thrown or dropped so"as to 
 land close to another pair of opponents, then these 
 two similarly struggle for its control. There is, 
 however, no obligation on the part of the players to 
 remain at their stations; but it is good play for 
 them to do so, as crowding around the ball does 
 
 CHECKING. 
 
 not help a side, and desertion of a post (unless one 
 has the ball) makes a weak spot in the defence or 
 attack which may cost a side the game. Whenever 
 the ball passes between the poles of a goal (from its 
 field side), whether carried on a crosse or thrown 
 from a crosse, it scores a game, and the team which 
 scores the greater number of games during a given 
 time (agreed upon in advance, usually an hour and 
 a half) wins the match. If a player accidentally 
 sends the ball through his own goal, it counts a 
 game for his opponents — unless it passes through 
 from behind the goal, when it counts nothing for 
 either side. Goals must be exchanged at the end of 
 every game, the choice in the first instance being 
 decided by a toss-up. 
 
 Under two circumstances only can the ball be 
 touched by the hand : the first is when it gets lodged 
 in some place inaccessible to the crosse. It is 
 then taken out by the hand, placed on the ground, 
 and the nearest pair of opponents " face " each other 
 and tussle for it, as the centres did at the opening 
 of the game. Should the ball be thrown out of 
 bounds, it must be brought back to the spot in the 
 field nearest the point it went out, and similarly 
 "faced" by two opponents, the other men remain- 
 ing in their places until the umpire sees that every- 
 thing is in readiness, and until he calls " play" (oir 
 " go"). The other instance in which the ball may be 
 touched by a player is when it gets within six feet of 
 a goal, and then the goal-keeper is permitted to pat 
 it away with his hand, or block it in any manner he 
 chooses with his body as well as with his crosse. 
 This six feet line in front of each goal is called the 
 " goal crease," and no opponent can cross it unless 
 the ball has already passed cover point's position 
 on that side of the field. Though players are not 
 permitted to touch the ball with the hand (except 
 in the cases just mentioned), they are allowed to 
 kick it with the foot when contesting its possession 
 with an opponent. 
 
 Violations of rules in lacrosse constitute " fouls," 
 and are punished by giving the man aggrieved his 
 choice of either a free run or a throw. For this 
 purpose, all of his opponents within ten feet of hira 
 must stand back that distance, the others retaining 
 their places. No one must stir until the player has 
 started to run or to throw the ball (always, of course, 
 with his crosse) after the umpire has called "play" 
 (or "go"). But if the foul is allowed within twenty 
 yards of the goal, the man must go back that far 
 before taking his run or throw with the ball. Fouls 
 are granted to a player whose crosse is grasped or 
 held, or who is struck, tripped, or kicked, or who is 
 shouldered from behind by an opponent, as pre- 
 viously noted. They are also allowed him if any 
 opponent (when more than six feet from the ball) 
 runs in front of him, or in any way seeks to interfere 
 with him and keep him from the ball until another 
 opponent can reach it ; or, if he is interfered with 
 by one opponent when pursuing another having 
 the ball ; or, if he is shouldered even from the side 
 by an opponent who is not at the time within six 
 feet of the ball; or, if he is "charged into" by an 
 opponent holding his crosse in both hands, so as 
 to strike the body of the former with it ; or, if he 
 is charged into by an opponent after throwing the 
 ball. It is not a foul, however, if a player is acci- 
 dentally hit by the ball, as it is his business to keep 
 
LACROSSE. 
 
 27 
 
 out of its way. More serious offences, where the 
 intent is to injure another, are punished by exclud- 
 ing the player from the field and compelling his side 
 to finish the game shorthanded. No player wearing 
 
 Lacrosse is a game full of life and snap, a little 
 rough, perhaps, but not dangerously so. It is 
 quickly played, and chains the attention of actor 
 and watcher from first to last. Its theory and 
 
 PICKING UP THE BALL. 
 
 spiked shoes should ever be allowed to enter a match. 
 The umpire, of course, is the sole judge of all offences 
 and of all fouls and penalties. Instead of one, 
 there are sometimes two umpires and a referee, the 
 
 rules are simple, and can be readily learned in a 
 very brief time. While it takes practice to master 
 the handling of the crosse so as to promptly pick 
 up and throw the ball with it, the skill is of a kind 
 
 CATCHING. 
 
 former placed one at each end of the field to de- 
 cide whether the ball passes between goal poles, and 
 the latter stationed near the players to see that the 
 men " face" properly at the opening of the game, 
 etc., and that the rules are observed. The final de- 
 cision on all questions that arise is with the referee. 
 
 which any one with a little patience can acquire. 
 Strength, agility and speed are the three principal 
 requisites for successful playing, in addition to 
 the even temper and good judgment which are as 
 essential in all amusements as they are in the more 
 serious occupations of life. 
 
28 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 LAWN TENNIS. 
 
 Thus far the games described have been intend- 
 ed exclusively or principally for boys and men. 
 The one next in order is equally adapted to both 
 sexes and can be played with as much propriety by 
 girls and women as by their masculine friends and 
 relatives. It might be difficult to determine with 
 which it is a greater favorite or among which it has 
 a larger number of adherents, for certainly there are 
 
 twenty-seven feet wide. Across the middle of this 
 a net is stretched extending three feet beyond each 
 side. The ends of the net are fastened to upright 
 posts driven into the ground, and the top of the net 
 should be three feet above the ground at its centra 
 and three and a half feet at the posts. (A few 
 inches space between the bottom of the net and the 
 ground is a convenience in rolling "dead" balls 
 
 few amusements which have so wide spread a pop- 
 ularity among American and English people of all 
 ages and classes as has lawn tennis. 
 
 Either two, three or four persons can take part in 
 the game, but an even number is better than an 
 odd one. Each player must be provided with a 
 racket, and two balls are required for common use. 
 (It is as well to have extra balls always at hand in 
 case the first two should get lost in the course of 
 a " set.") On a level piece of ground there should 
 be marked off (with white paint, slaked lime or 
 marble dust) a rectangle seventy-eight feet long and 
 
 back across the field to the server.) The erection 
 of the net divides the rectangle into two spaces of 
 equal size, thirty-nine feet long and (of course) 
 twenty-seven feet wide. These in turn should be 
 divided by a line running from the centre of the net 
 (and at right angles to it) to each of the further 
 boundaries, making four rectangles, each thirty- 
 nine by thirteen and a half feet. Twenty-one feet 
 each side of the net other lines should be drawn 
 parallel to it. There will then be four divisions on 
 each side of the net, two of which will be thirteen 
 and a half by twenty-one feet, and two thirteen and 
 
LA WN TENNIS. 
 
 29 
 
 a half by nineteen feet. The whole forms a tennis- 
 court for two players. By increasing the width 
 four and a half feet on each side (the length re- 
 maining the same) a court for three or four is made, 
 the total dimensions of which would be seventy- 
 eight by thirty-six feet. Sometimes courts are con- 
 structed only for single (two-handed) play and 
 sometimes only for double (three-or four-handed) 
 play, as illustrated by the accompanying diagrams. 
 
 If it is desired to have a court which can be used 
 for either two, three or four players then the inte- 
 rior side lines (as marked on the diagram of a dou- 
 ble court) should be extended to the base line at 
 each end. 
 
 As the net must always project three feet beyond 
 the side-lines, the total length of one required for 
 double-court tennis is forty-two feet. This size can 
 also be used in the single court game as there is 
 
 « 
 
 LEFT 
 
 RIGHT 
 
 SIDE 
 
 W COURT. 
 
 n 
 
 COURT LINE. 
 
 COURT. 
 
 LINE. 
 
 18 Feet. 
 
 Feet.. 
 
 RIGHT 
 
 LEFT 
 
 78 FEET 
 
 COURT. 
 
 COURT. 
 
 LONG. 
 
 e 
 
 DIAGRAM OF FIELD FOR SINGLE-COURT LAWN TENNIS. 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
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 q^aH9HlU99J «A 
 
 
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 m 
 
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 SCOURT 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 SIDE LINES 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 DIAGRAM OF FIELD FOR DOUBLE-COURT LAWN TENNIS. 
 
 There is no real necessity of extending what in the 
 first diagram is called the " court line " (and in the 
 second diagram the " half court line ") beyond the 
 " service lines " (/. e., from the " service lines " to 
 the " base lines "), as there is no distinction made 
 in playing between the two spaces or courts ad- 
 joining the base lines. But it is necessary to have 
 the middle point of the base lines marked in some 
 manner and it is as convenient to do this by extend- 
 ing the court line as in any other way. 
 
 no restriction upon the net's extending more than 
 the distance mentioned outside the lines. One 
 net can thus be made to answer for either style of 
 court. 
 
 The balls used in tennis are light and elastic (so 
 as to easily rebound) weighing close upon two 
 ounces with a diameter of about two and a half in- 
 ches. The size and weight of the racket depends on 
 the fancy of the owner. From eleven to sixteen 
 ounces are as extreme weights as are often found. 
 
3° 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 with perhaps fourteen ounces for an average. They 
 are shaped somewhat Hke a battledore, a handle at 
 one end and the other end wide and flat with 
 which to strike the ball. This batting end is made 
 by tightly lacing with catgut a half oval frame of 
 wood. The handle may be of smooth wood, or may 
 be covered with leather, or wound with cord, or 
 
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 slightly roughened in any way to prevent it slipping 
 when in use. 
 
 In a two-handed game one player stands on each 
 side of the net, the choice of positions being de- 
 cided by a toss-up. The winner of the toss-up, in- 
 stead of choosing his position, can elect whether 
 he will first " serve " the ball or have his opponent 
 serve it. In that case his antagonist has the choice 
 of courts, as the same player cannot choose both 
 position and the privilege of serving (or not serving) 
 the ball. This choice of courts may be quite im- 
 portant as, owing to the direction of the wind, the 
 position of the sun or inequalities in the ground 
 (when an absolutely smooth tract cannot be ob- 
 tained), one court may possess a considerable ad- 
 vantage over the other. At the end of each "set" 
 (as a tennis series of games is termed) courts are 
 always exchanged by opponents crossing to oppo- 
 site sides of the net. 
 
 The player who first serves the ball stands back 
 at the extreme end of his court with one foot out- 
 side the " base line " (the line furthest from the net 
 and parallel to it) and at the right of the middle (or 
 "court") line. He serves the ball by tossing it 
 lightly in the air with one hand and then striking 
 it with the bat held in his other hand before it 
 touches the ground. In striking it his object is to 
 send it into the court of his opponent adjoining the 
 net and which is at his (the server's) left, that is into 
 the court diagonally opposite to him. (Whether 
 there are two or more playing, the place into 
 which the ball must be served remains the same : 
 it is always into a single-court space. It is for 
 this reason that on the double-court diagram the 
 interior spaces next to the net are of the same 
 
 size as in a single-court. The outer side lines are 
 not regarded in serving the ball.) Should the 
 server fail to send the ball into the proper court 
 (z". e., should it first touch the ground outside of 
 that court) a "fault" is called, and he must try 
 again with the second ball from the same position. 
 If that similarly fails to land in the court played 
 for, " fifteen " is scored in favor of his opponent. 
 The server then changes his place to the left of the 
 court line (but standing with one foot beyond the 
 base line as before) and 
 serves into his opponent's 
 other net court. Should 
 he again not succeed in 
 delivering either ball into 
 this court another fifteen is credited to his oppo- 
 nent (making the score against the server thirty 
 in all) and the server returns to his former place 
 and delivers the balls as at first. In this way the 
 same player continues to serve through an entire 
 game, alternating between his two furthermost 
 courts whenever a point is scored for or against 
 him. Every time he makes two " faults " in suc- 
 cession (that is, misses with both of his balls) his 
 opponents score, and a game is not infrequently 
 lost by beginners in lawn tennis soley by faults 
 in serving the ball. It is to be noted that a served 
 ball touching the top of the net and then falling 
 over into the proper court is counted neither as 
 a fault nor as a good ball ; it simply is disregarded 
 and the server delivers the ball over again. 
 
 But if the server succeeds in sending either of his 
 balls over the net into the proper court, then his 
 opponent (the " striker-out ") must be ready on the 
 first rebound of the ball from the ground to strike 
 it back with his racket over the net. For this 
 purpose he had better stand a little behind his 
 " service line " (the line which is between, and par- 
 allel to, the base and net lines). He is not allowed to 
 
 strike a served ball before it touches the ground 
 and only then on its first rebound. If he fails to 
 hit it before it touches the ground a second time, 
 " fifteen " is scored for his opponent (the server). 
 Or if he does hit it in time and it strikes against 
 the net, falling back into the court of the striker- 
 out ; or if it clears the net and lands outside of the 
 
LA WN TENNIS. 
 
 31 
 
 boundary lines (z. e., beyond the base and side 
 lines) of his opponent's courts it scores the same 
 (fifteen) for the server. 
 
 Should the ball be properly returned over the 
 net by the striker-out and the server sees that it is 
 going to land within one of his courts, he must 
 be equally prepared to send it back again by striking 
 it with his racket either on the first bound or before 
 it touches the ground — the prohibition from hitting 
 balls on the fly ("volleying" it is called in tennis) 
 only applying to balls as they are served. On the 
 server's returning the ball over the net the striker- 
 out in turn sends it back again (if he can), and so 
 the ball is struck back and forth over the net until 
 finally it lands outside of the bounds (when it scores 
 
 is called " deuce " and one of them must make two- 
 strokes in succession to secure the game. The first 
 who makes a stroke after the score has reached 
 "deuce" is said to have the "advantage" (com- 
 monly shortened to "vantage"). If his opponent 
 then makes a stroke the score returns to " deuce ; ' 
 if the same opponent then makes the next stroke, 
 the latter then has the " advantage ; " and if the 
 next stroke is again made by the same player he 
 wins the game ; but if it is made by the first player 
 " deuce " is once more the score and the two must 
 again struggle first for the advantage and then 
 for the game. In calling out the score as the 
 game progresses that of the server is customarily 
 named first : thus, " fifteen-forty " means the server 
 
 FIELDING. 
 
 against the one who last hit it), or until one of the 
 players fails to strike it before its second rebound 
 or else lands it within his own court-lines (when it 
 scores against him). Whenever a score is made 
 the balls become dead, the server takes them again 
 and, returning to his base-line, plays for the court 
 into which he did not last serve. This is done 
 whether the point scored had been made by the 
 one side or the other or off the first or second ball 
 previously served, the alternation in courts follow- 
 ing the score and not the number of balls delivered. 
 As already stated, the first point gained by either 
 player counts fifteen and the second fifteen more, 
 or thirty in all. His third stroke advances him to 
 forty and his fourth wins him the game, provided 
 his opponent has not yet scored more than thirty. 
 When, however, both players have each made three 
 strokes and therefore are tied at " forty " the score 
 
 has made one stroke (fifteen) and his opponent 
 three strokes (forty) ; " thirty all " signifies that 
 each has make two strokes (thirty) ; " forty-love " 
 indicates that the server has made three strokes 
 and his opponent none; "vantage for" shows that 
 the advantage (over deuce) is in favor of the server, 
 and "vantage against" that the stroke beyond 
 deuce was made by the striker-out. 
 
 Whichever player first secures six games wins the 
 " set " or contest, which thus may require eleven 
 games to decide it. Sometimes it is agreed in ad- 
 vance that if the score should become five to five 
 "vantage games" shall be played, in other words 
 that one of the contestants must be the winner of 
 two consecutive games after the score of "deuce 
 games" (or "games all " as it is generally called) is 
 reached. In such a case the set may necessitate the 
 playing of twenty or more games to determine the 
 
32 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 match, as the advantage may swing back and forth 
 between the players for a long time. It is the ex- 
 ception and not the rule, however, to play " vantage 
 games," and it is not commonly done except in con- 
 tests between clubs or for championships. One 
 player having served throughout the first game, the 
 other serves during the second ; in the third the 
 service returns to the one who had it before, and 
 so it alternates until the set is completed. Each 
 player serves from his own side of the net, courts 
 ordinarily being exchanged only at the end of sets. 
 
 When four are playing, the partner of the server 
 generally stands well up towards the net on the 
 opposite side of the court-line from which the server 
 is delivering the balls. He is thus in a position 
 to return the ball if the striker-out succeeds in 
 sending it back over the net. The partner of the 
 first striker-out, on the other hand, stations him- 
 self back near the base-line also with the court-line 
 between himself and the striker-out. By placing 
 themselves in this way the two sides of each court are 
 protected as well as the front and back. The part- 
 ners usually arrange in advance whether, after the 
 ball is once in play, one shall look after the right- 
 hand side of their court and the other the left-hand 
 side, or whether one shall have particular charge of 
 the front and the other of the back. Which of these 
 arrangements it is best to make will depend largely 
 upon the style of play of the individuals, and of 
 course it would not be wise to always adhere rigidly 
 to either plan, but to modify it as emergencies in 
 the game arise. The two opponents of the server 
 receive the balls alternately during the game, one 
 those delivered into the right-hand court and the 
 other those played into the left-hand court, the 
 same person not being permitted to act as striker- 
 out for two successive strokes. 
 
 In the second game of a four-handed match the 
 one who had been the first striker-out becomes 
 server and the partner of the former server now first 
 acts as striker-out; the latter in tlie third game 
 becoming server. The partner of the first striker- 
 out serves in the fourth game. This order of rota- 
 tion is preserved during tne set and results in each 
 player's serving in regular turn. At the beginning 
 of a second set in either a two or four-handed contest 
 the first server is customarily the one who was the 
 first striker-out in the last game of the previous set. 
 
 Though the ball must be served into the same 
 sized space in a four-handed game as in a two- 
 handed one, it can be returned (in the former case^ 
 into any part of the enlarged double-court, and the 
 server or his partner can similarly then send it back 
 
 anywhere within their opponents' double-court. 
 The increased width of a double-court is thus avail- 
 able for every purpose excepting serving balls. But 
 in a three-handed game where one piayer is pitted 
 against two others the latter can only return balls 
 within the single-court bounds, while the former has 
 the privilege of sending the ball within the double- 
 court limits of his opponents' territory. This is 
 but just as there are two men to cover the ground 
 in one case and only one in the other, and it 
 would be almost impossible for a single player to 
 properly guard so great a tract unaided. The 
 single player serves every alternate game in a three- 
 handed contest. 
 
 Should the ball at any stage of a game fall on a 
 boundary line it is considered as within the adjoin- 
 ing court. Any ball which a player strikes at or 
 attempts to return is to be reckoned a good ball 
 even if it would otherwise have landed outside of 
 the court-space. Generally, however, when it is 
 quite evident that the ball will not fall within the 
 boundaries a player, standing on or near his base- 
 line, is allowed to stop it (on crying " fault " or 
 " miss " before he intercepts it) without its scoring 
 against him. This is permitted in order to save a 
 needless waste of time in chasing balls. The server 
 must not deliver a ball until the striker-out is ready, 
 indicated usually by the latter taking his position 
 or responding when the former calls " play." A 
 ball delivered before the striker-out is ready counts 
 for nothing (like a " net ball ") and must be de- 
 livered over again. But should the striker-out at- 
 tempt to return it, he cannot then claim it was not 
 a good ball. If a ball when returtud by either 
 player strikes the net and then falls over it, it is 
 regarded as a good ball — though a served ball under 
 similar circumstances (as already explained) is not 
 counted. Should a player, however, send the ball 
 against one of the posts of the net, or allow it to 
 touch himself or anything he wears or carries, ex- 
 cepting his racket in the act of striking, it scores 
 against him ; as it also does if he hits the ball twice 
 or more, or if he touches the net or posts with his 
 racket while the ball is in play. 
 
 Perhaps as useful a conclusion to this description 
 as any that could be written will be the decisions 
 which Mr. James Dwight, a well-known English 
 authority on lawn tennis, has prepared on a few 
 doubtful cases such as are most likely to arise in 
 the experience of any one when learning the game. 
 
 Case I. Can a player follow a ball over the net 
 with his racket, provided that he hits the ball on 
 his own side of the net.' 
 
A GAME AT TENNIS. 
 
34 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 Decision. Yes. The only restrictions are that he 
 shall not volley the ball until it has crossed the 
 net, and that he shall not touch the net or any of 
 its supports. 
 
 Case 2. A player is standing outside of the court 
 and volleys the ball ; he then claims that the ball 
 was out. 
 
 Decision. The ball is in play until it touches the 
 ground outside of the court. The player's position 
 is of no consequence whatever. 
 
 Case 3. A player, standing outside of the court, 
 catches the ball, and claims that it was certainly 
 going out. Who wins the stroke } 
 
 Decision. His adversary. It is a very common 
 thing for a player to stop a ball in this way, and 
 score the point, but it is by courtesy only that he is 
 allowed to do so. He loses the stroke if his oppo- 
 nent claims it. 
 
 Case 4. The service is delivered before the striker- 
 out is ready. He tries to return it and fails. Is he 
 entitled to have it played over .' 
 
 Decision. No. If he attempts to return the ser- 
 vice, he is deemed ready. 
 
 Case 5. A ball having been played over the net 
 bounces back into the court from which it came. 
 The player reaches over the net and plays it before 
 it falls. Has he a right to do so .' 
 
 Decision. Yes, provided he does not touch the 
 
 net. He has a right to play the ball at any time 
 from the moment it crosses the net into his court, 
 until it touches the ground a second time. 
 
 Case 6. A ball is played into the net ; the net 
 player on the other side, thinking that the ball is 
 coming over, strikes at it and hits the net. Who 
 loses the stroke ? 
 
 Decision. It is simply a question of which hap- 
 pened first. If the player touched the net while the 
 ball was still in play, he loses the stroke. Hitting 
 the net after the ball is dead can make no differ- 
 ence. 
 
 Case 7. A player is struck by the ball served be- 
 fore it has touched the ground, he being outside of 
 the service court. How does it count ? 
 
 Decision. The player struck loses the point. The 
 service is presumably good until it strikes in the 
 wrong court. A player cannot take the decision 
 upon himself by stopping the ball. If it is going to 
 be a fault he has only to get out of the way. 
 
 Case 8. A by-stander gets in the way of a player ; 
 the latter attempts to return the ball and fails. Has 
 he a right to have the hand played again .' 
 
 Decision. Not if he attempted to return the ball. 
 But if he makes no such attempt, and, in the um- 
 pire's opinion, the bystander was distinctly in the 
 way, he shall then have a right to have the hand 
 played over. 
 
CROQUET. 
 
 35 
 
 CROQUET. 
 
 Perhaps not even lawn tennis is more popular 
 than croquet as an out-door game for boys and girls 
 or for men and women — for either sex by itself or 
 for the two playing together. It is a less active 
 game, requiring not nearly as much exertion as any 
 of those hitherto mentioned, and for this reason it 
 can be enjoyed by those who have less endurance 
 than the followers of ball or tennis require. While 
 it is easily understood and quickly learned, real pro- 
 ficiency in it needs a practised and skilled hand, a 
 sure eye and cool and clear judgment. Properly 
 played it is one of the most scientific of all amuse- 
 ments. 
 
 Two, four, six or eight persons can take part in a 
 game of croquet — or even an odd number (from 
 three to seven), though the latter would rnake un- 
 equally divided side*. One of the smaller numbers 
 is best, however, as six or eight cause a game to be 
 tedious and slow. Each player is provided with a 
 ball and mallet marked alike with some distinctive 
 color, blue, black, white and red being those gen- 
 erally used in two- or four-handed games. The balls 
 are made either of wood, celluloid or solid rubber 
 (the last now being preferred by most skilled play- 
 ers) and their regulation size is three and a half 
 inches in diaraeter. The mallets can be of any 
 weight and size desired. The handles are of hard 
 wood and range in length from eight to thirty-two 
 inches, with cylindrical heads of boxwood or ama- 
 ranth which sometimes have hard rubber ends 
 screwed on. Instead of being cylindrical the heads 
 occasionally are cubical. Formerly all players used 
 the long handled mallets, but now experts in the 
 game usually choose the shorter ones. The strik- 
 ing end of the head of the mallet is always flat. 
 
 In addition to balls and mallets, two stakes and 
 nine wickets are required for the game. The former 
 (made of wood) can be of any length 
 whatever, and are driven into the 
 ground seventy feet apart, though a 
 shorter distance will suffice when the 
 
 ones can be obtained for younger players. They 
 are made of iron or steel, bent into a u-shape like 
 
 tract available is limited, or the players 
 are inexperienced. Wickets made for 
 clubs are not over four inches in width 
 and stand from eight to ten inches 
 above the ground, but larger (especially wider) 
 
 an arch. The first wicket is placed seven feet in 
 front of the starting stake ; the second seven feet 
 in front of the first ; the third fourteen feet to the 
 right (and one foot in advance) of the second ; the 
 fourth on a line with the first and second and 
 twenty-one feet in advance of the second ; the fifth 
 in a line with the third and in the same relative 
 position to the turning (second) stake that the 
 third is to the starting stake ; the sixth and seventh 
 fourteen and seven feet respectively from the turn- 
 ing stake ; the eighth and ninth in similar positions 
 to the third and fifth, but on the opposite (left) side 
 of the field. There will thus be five wickets in line 
 between the stakes and four wing wickets. (These 
 measurements are given for a full-sized field where 
 the stakes are seventy feet apart and will need to 
 be proportionally reduced when a smaller ground is 
 used.) 
 
 Should the contest be between four or more 
 players each has a single ball ; should it be between 
 two each takes a couple of balls, playing with each 
 one alternately. The object of the game is to drive 
 the balls (by hitting them with the mallets) through 
 the wickets in regular order to the turning stake 
 
 and after touching that (with the 
 gg ip balls) to drive them similarly back 
 
 to the starting stake. Which- 
 ever side first does this, bringing all of its balls 
 home before the other, wins the game. A player 
 can only strike his own ball with his mallet, and he 
 must not touch it with anything else (except to 
 place it in position under certam circumstances to 
 
36 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 be noted in their proper place), but he can cause 
 his own ball to strike other balls and in the doing 
 of this is the science of croquet, as he can thus 
 greatly assist his partner (or himself if he is using 
 two balls) and bother his opponents. 
 
 Whoever is to open the game (chance as usual 
 deciding which that shall be) places his ball on the 
 ground half way between the starting-stake and the 
 first wicket. He then strikes it (once only) with 
 his mallet, endeavoring to send it through that wick- 
 et. If he succeeds, he can strike it again, trying to 
 send it through the second wicket. If he is again 
 successful, he strikes it once more, this time playing 
 for the third wicket off at the right-hand side of 
 the field. Whenever he makes a wicket he is en- 
 titled toanother shot, provided his ball goes through 
 in the right direction, that is from the side nearest 
 the starting-stake. (After reaching and touching 
 the turning-stake, the balls must pass under the 
 arches from the side nearest that stake.) The or- 
 der in which the wickets must be passed through is 
 (i) the one next the starting-stake, (2) the one in 
 front of that, (3) the nearest one on the right-hand 
 side, (4) the centre one, (5) the distant right-hand 
 one, (6) the second one from the turning-stake, (7) 
 the one next to that stake. Then the turning-stake 
 must be touched and after that the order is (8) the 
 wicket nearest the turning-stake, (9) the second 
 one from that stake, (10) the distant left-hand one 
 (as looked at from the place of starting), (11) the 
 centre one, (12) the near left-hand one, (13) the 
 second from the home stake and (14) the first wick- 
 et again. Each ball on a side must also touch the 
 home-stake after making all the wickets to secure 
 the game. It will be seen that all the wickets have 
 to be made twice, with the exception of the four 
 wing ones. Including the two stakes that must be 
 touched, every ball has virtually sixteen points to 
 make. A wicket made out of its regular order or 
 from its wrong side does not count. 
 
 It is very likely that the first player will miss on 
 the third wicket, as that is a difficult shot to make 
 when there are no other balls in the field on which 
 he can play and so assist himself. But whether it 
 is that wicket he fails to make, or the next one, or 
 the first of all, he must leave his ball on the field 
 exactly where it stopped after his miss. His oppo- 
 nent then has a turn and places his ball on the 
 ground where the first had been. He can not only 
 play for the wickets but he can also play for his oppo- 
 nent's ball. Should he hit it he makes what is called 
 a " roquet," and he is then entitled to a " croquet.'\ 
 This consists in placing his own ball (which he can 
 
 touch with his hands for this purpose) in contact 
 with the one roqueted (as soon as the latter stops 
 rolling after being hit), and on whichever side of it 
 he chooses, and then striking his own ball with his 
 mallet, so as to move both of them, either in the 
 same or in different directions according as they 
 were placed and as the blow was struck. This is 
 sometimes termed a " loose croquet " or a " ro- 
 quet-croquet " to distinguish it from what is known 
 as a " tight croquet,' or striking the ball when the 
 player's foot is pressing it down. In this case the 
 impulse from the blow of the mallet is communi- 
 cated to the roqueted ball and the latter moves, 
 while the ball actually struck remains still. The 
 loose croquet is now oftener employed than the 
 tight croquet, and in some associations the latter is 
 no longer allowed. Each player can roquet and 
 croquet every other ball in the field once (and only 
 once) after every point (wicket or turning-stake) he 
 makes. But of course this does not absolve him 
 from making any of the wickets, it only enables him 
 to get an opponent out of the way or to advance 
 his own ball or that of his partner. After roqueting 
 a ball the player is entitled to another shot, the 
 same as if he had advanced a point. A ball ro- 
 queted or croqueted through the wicket for which 
 it is in play {i. <?., the wicket it ought next to pass) 
 makes that wicket whether it be accidentally done 
 by an opponent or purposely done by a partner. 
 This, in fact, is the way that partners most help 
 each other, and one of the secrets of good play in 
 croquet is not permitting one ball of a side to stay 
 too far behind the others ; it is often better for the 
 player who is ahead to use his turn at times in help- 
 ing forward laggards than to further advance him- 
 self. 
 
 When the second player has got on as far as he 
 can and misses, the partner of the first brings out 
 his ball as his predecessors did ; or, if the game is 
 between only two, then the first starts his second 
 ball. There are already two balls in the field for 
 him to play on as well as the wickets and hence he 
 has a better chance of making points than the 
 others had had. Of course the player of the fourth 
 ball when his turn comes has a still better opportu- 
 nity at his start than had any of the others, but after 
 that (in a two or four-handed game) each will have 
 whatever aid he can obtain from three balls. 
 
 After a ball has make the circuit of all the wick- 
 ets, but has not yet touched the home-stake, it be- 
 comes a " rover," and its duty then should be to 
 assist its partners until they all likewise are rovers, 
 when one of them can first put the others " out " 
 
 Jl 
 
CROQUET. 
 
 37 
 
 by causing them to strike the winning-stake and 
 then similarly go out itself. This is better than for 
 each to go out as it becomes a rover in its turn, as 
 the latter course would not only deprive players of 
 the assistance of their roving partners and remove 
 a hindrance that might be offered to the enemy, but 
 it would also be needlessly giving the enemy a fur- 
 ther advantage by leaving them a greater number 
 of balls in the field with which to keep their oppo- 
 nents away from the home-stake and help one 
 another on. As the turns of some of their balls in 
 that case would immediately follow each other, they 
 could play into one another's hands and so perhaps 
 advance themselves more quickly than if an oppos- 
 ing ball came in between. As soon as a rover 
 touches the winning-stake (whether made to do so 
 by friend or enemy) the ball is out and can take no 
 further part in the game, and its turn of course is 
 lost to its side. Sometimes it is good play to get 
 rid of a troublesome opposing rover by thus sending 
 him to the stake. 
 
 Clips, which may be made of patent clothes-pins, 
 colored (on one side only) to match the balls and 
 mallets, are very useful in indicating the wicket any 
 ball is played for. They prevent mistakes and save 
 confusion. As each arch is passed by a given ball 
 the corresponding clip is taken from it and placed 
 on the wicket next in order, its colored side show- 
 ing from which direction the ball is bound. 
 
 Sometimes, instead of the usual style, a cage 
 wicket is substituted in the centre of the field. It 
 is made by placing two ordinary arches eighteen 
 inches apart and at right angles to the others. 
 
 When a player on a single shot roquets two or 
 more balls he can croquet the first one only. If he 
 roquets a ball and then (on the same shot) makes a 
 point, he must disregard the point and croquet the 
 ball. But if he made the point and afterwards his 
 ball touched another ball he can both count the 
 point and croquet the roqueted ball. He does not, 
 however, get another extra shot by doing so, or by 
 making two points on a single stroke ; he only has 
 the one shot after making two wickets (or after 
 making a wicket and a roquet) that he would have 
 had after making one wicket. In other words a 
 ball has but the same privileges on gaining two 
 points that it has on gaining one. To make a 
 wicket the ball must pass entirely through it, so 
 that a straight edge laid against the wire (on the 
 
 side through which the ball passed) will not touch 
 the ball. 
 
 As will be readily seen success in croquet depends 
 in the first place upon sureness of aim so as to be 
 able to send the ball in just the direction desired, 
 whether it be for the purpose of making a point, of 
 roqueting another ball, or of gaining a coveted 
 position. In the second place it depends upon 
 accurately measuring the force of blow needed to 
 send the ball the precise distance wanted, so that it 
 
 THE SIX-HOOP SETTING. 
 
 will neither fall short of the proper spot nor on the 
 other hand overshoot it. And in the next place it 
 depends upon a knowledge of the different effects 
 produced on croqueted balls by varying their posi- 
 tions and the character of the stroke of the mallet. 
 No satisfactory description of these effects can be 
 written ; knowledge of them mast be acquired by- 
 practice. 
 
38 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 GOLF. 
 
 Golf is an ancient Scottish game which of late 
 years has become very popular in many English- 
 speaking countries. It requires, perhaps, a greater 
 space of ground to play it on than any other amuse- 
 ment, and possibly occupies more time in the play- 
 ing than most other out-door sports, excepting al- 
 ways cricket ; but it is a healthy active game, exer- 
 cising all the muscles of the body and fully engaging 
 the attention of the mind, so that as great a bene- 
 fit can be derived from it as from any of the many 
 forms of open-air recreation. 
 
 POSITION FOR THE DRIVE. 
 
 Either two or four persons usually take part in a 
 match. A larger number may play and often do, 
 but the single or double (" foursome ") game is the 
 better one, especially for beginners. The length 
 of the course should be at least three miles and one 
 five miles long is better — still a shorter one will suf- 
 fice if no suitable long one can be obtained. Of 
 course such an extent of territory cannot be laid out 
 in the careful way a base-ball ground, a cricket field 
 or a tennis court is prepared — nor is any attempt 
 ever made to do so. A region is selected where the 
 natural conditions are already fairly favorable, and 
 
 the preparations are then confined to the starting- 
 place and to certain points alongthe course where the 
 " holes " are to be made — -these holes being the great 
 and distinguishing feature of the game. If feasible 
 the course should describe more or less of a circle like 
 a race-track, as then returning players would not 
 interfere with outgoing ones, but if this is not 
 possible a straight course will answer the purpose, 
 and players after going from one end to the other 
 can then work their way back from the further end 
 home. The course has no designated width, as the 
 further description of the game will show that to be 
 unnecessary. 
 
 As to the nature of the ground desirable for a 
 golf course that of an undulating character is by far 
 the best. A wooded mountainous tract would 
 make play impossible ; a dead level would take all in- 
 terest from the game. But a grassy country with fre- 
 quent risings and depressions, an occasional sand- 
 bank, small streams, and a little underbrush once in a 
 while gives the greatest sport by presenting difficul- 
 ties (" hazards " as they are here called) to be over- 
 come, and the conquest of such difficulties is the life 
 of the sport and is what attracts its worshippers. 
 
 Along the course at distances varying from one 
 hundred to five hundred yards (according to the 
 length of the course) there should be made, for the 
 ordinary regular game, eighteen holes. If, however, 
 the course must be limited in length and cannot be 
 full size, it is better to have a smaller number of 
 holes (and to go around the course twice) than tO 
 place the holes too near one another. The distance 
 between the holes should be about the same but need 
 not be exactly uniform, as it is more important to 
 have them at suitable spots than at a specified num- 
 ber of feet apart. A piece of clear and level green- 
 sward about twenty yards square offers the most fa- 
 vorable location. At the centre of this greensward 
 a circular hole should be dug with a diameter and 
 depth each of four and a half inches, and it should 
 be lined with an iron tube to prevent its sides from 
 caving in, etc. The turf around the hole should be 
 thoroughly rolled and the grass cut short so that 
 the whole tract of twenty yards becomes almost as 
 smooth as a billiard table. These turf tracts around 
 the holes are known as " putting-greens " and 
 should always be kept in perfect order. 
 
 In each of the holes is placed a rod of iron, or 
 
GOLF. 
 
 39 
 
 wood bearing a flag as a guide, indicating from a 
 distance the place wliere the hole exists. Whether 
 the course be undulating or flat, the necessity for 
 such an indication is apparent. But sometimes the 
 surface of the country may be so uneven that it is 
 impossible to see from flag to flag so placed. In 
 that case it is necessary to employ besides what are 
 called guiding flags. These are mounted on staves 
 to whatever height may be required, and are placed 
 at certain convenient places to show in what direc- 
 tion the hole lies. On arriving at the putting-green, 
 and while playing thereon, the small flag is removed 
 from the hole, until the hole is scored, when the 
 flag is again replaced for the' guidance of the on- 
 coming players. These flags, -too, vary in color, 
 but only to the following extent. As far as the 
 ninth hole going out, the flags should be white, 
 and for all holes coming in, the flags should be red. 
 On some greens, however, this order of things is 
 reversed . 
 
 Near to each putting-green another important 
 spot must be chosen as a starting-point from hole 
 to hole. This is called the teeing-ground, which 
 should be tolerably level, or inclined in the slight- 
 est degree. This ground is indicated by paint-marks 
 on the turf. The starting-point at the beginning of 
 the game is called the tee. Within the limits of 
 the paint-marks the ball must be placed, or as it 
 is called "teed." To tee a ball for driving, it is 
 usual to place it on some small eminence on the 
 surface of the turf. Some players put it directly 
 on the ground ; others on a few blades of stiff grass ; 
 but the more common practice is to mould a minute 
 hillock with a pinch of damp sand on which the ball 
 can lightly rest. When the ball is driven from the 
 teeing-ground it cannot be touched again by the 
 hands (excepting under certain conditions) until 
 the next hole has been scored or given up. 
 
 So much for the course on which the game is 
 played ; now for the game itself. 
 
 Each player, if there are but two, provides him- 
 self with a small light ball. If more than two are in 
 the match then each pair of players (partners) has a 
 ball. Each player has also a set of clubs which will 
 be described further on. These clubs are used in 
 striking the ball, and they vary in style and number 
 to suit the fancy of each player. ' In a " foursome " 
 (four-handed) game the two partners strike their 
 ball alternately. In a single (two-handed) match 
 each man strikes or touches only his own ball. 
 
 Chance, as usual, having decided the order of play, 
 the man having the lead places his ball (which he can 
 touch with his hands for this purpose) on the tee 
 
 at the starting-ground and drives it with one of his 
 clubs in the direction of the first hole. As that hole 
 on a full-sized course is about five hundred yards 
 distant, and on any course should be at least one 
 hundred yards away, he naturally will not reach it 
 on a single stroke. Leaving the ball of the first 
 player where it landed, his opponent (or either one 
 of his opponents if it is a " foursome " match) puts 
 his ball on the tee and in turn gives it a drive towards 
 the same hole. Of course he cannot reach that 
 hole on his first blow any more than could his pred- 
 ecessor. If, however, he does not send his ball as 
 far as the first ball went, he (or his partner if he has 
 
 BEGINNING THE HIGH LOFTING STROKE. 
 
 one) must strike it again and continue striking it 
 until it passes the first ball — keeping careful record 
 of the number of blows struck. As soon as the first 
 ball is passed its owner (or his partner in a four- 
 handed game) strikes it again towards the hole and 
 the stroke is repeated if the first attempt did not 
 place it ahead of the point where the second ball 
 rested. And so the game is continued, each ball in 
 succession being hit a sufficient number of times to 
 drive it ahead of its opponent, partners (in four- 
 some matches) invariably alternating in the strokes, 
 until the balls have landed in the first hole. The 
 player or side which gained the hole with th.e fewer 
 number of strokes wins the first point in the match. 
 
40 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 Should both sides make the hole on an even num- 
 ber of strokes each is credited with half a point. 
 
 The start from the first hole is made by the win- 
 ner of that point and he places his ball on the ad- 
 jacent teeing-ground and gives it a drive towards 
 the next hole. He is followed as in the first in- 
 stance by his opponent and the contest for the sec- 
 ond hole is similar in every respect to the preced- 
 ing one. Each hole as it is made gives a point to 
 the side accomplishing it with the smallest number 
 of blows, and when the round of eighteen holes has 
 been completed the one credited with the most 
 points has won the match. 
 
 
 AT THE TOP OF THE SWING. 
 
 Instead of " hole play," as the foregoing method 
 of counting is called, matches are sometimes de- 
 cided by what is termed " score play," in which the 
 number of strokes required to make the entire 
 eighteen holes is reckoned together and the one 
 whose total score is lightest is pronounced the win 
 ner of the game. By this method of counting a 
 player manifestly might win a majority of the holes 
 and yet lose the match ; as for instance he might 
 gain ten holes on a score in each case of (say) four 
 to five ; and lose the other eight on a score of (say) 
 seven to five. His total number of strokes in this 
 example would be ninety-six against ninety for his 
 adversary, although he has ten holes to his oppo- 
 nent's eight. Score-play is to the advantage of the 
 skilled golfer ; while hole-play is better for the in- 
 
 experienced one, as it prevents his becomiing too 
 easily discouraged by ill-success at the start. In 
 medal contests score-play is nearly always adopted. 
 
 All of this sounds very simple, and the principles 
 of the game are easily enough learned to permit a 
 beginner's getting plenty of amusement from golf 
 without much preliminary instruction. But skill in 
 it is quite another thing and requires fully as much 
 practice as in any other sport. To strike a ball on 
 the teeing-ground so as to send it the greatest 
 possible distance and in just the right direction ; to 
 get it out of a sand-bank ("bunker") in the fewest 
 number of strokes ; to successfully hole it when on 
 the putting-green with a single blow — a mastery of 
 these and of m'any another point in the game does 
 not come " by nature " but only by hard, constant 
 and careful work. But with persistence they all 
 can be acquired and reasonable expertness obtained 
 by any one who will give time and attention to the 
 necessary practice. Fortunately a player can be as 
 deliberate in his strokes as he chooses and so culti- 
 vate the habit of carefulness as he learns the game. 
 
 Besides handling the ball for teeing it may be 
 also similarly touched under the following condi- 
 tions : when the two balls lie within six inches 
 of each other the one nearer the hole to which the 
 parties are playing should be lifted up till the other 
 is played, then placed as nearly as possible in its 
 original position ; if a ball lie in water its owner can 
 take it out, change it (i.e. substitute another for it) 
 if he pleases, drop it behind the hazard and then 
 play it, but an extra stroke is marked against him 
 if he does this ; a ball stuck fast in wet ground or 
 sand may be taken out and replaced loosely in the 
 hole it has made ; a ball falling on the personal 
 property {e.g. clothing) of the owner or occupant of 
 the land over which the golf course extends can be 
 lifted and dropped behind the article without 
 penalty, provided the property would be injured if 
 the ball were struck where it lay; a broken or 
 cracked ball may be replaced by a sound one, and a 
 lost one by another one (in the latter case the hole 
 is counted against the loser ; the ball is considered 
 lost if not found in a ten minutes' search). Before 
 striking his ball a player is entitled to remove any 
 loose impediment within a club's length of his ball, 
 unless the ball lies within a bunker, on sand, on a 
 mole-hill, on a road, or other hazard, or touches a 
 growing bush, etc. ; but everything on a putting- 
 green can be removed excepting only an opponent's 
 ball. Whatever completely covers or hides a ball 
 can be sufficiently moved to permit a player seeing 
 his ball before striking it. 
 
GOLF. 
 
 41 
 
 Formerly the balls used in golf consisted of feath- 
 ers stuffed in a leathern case, but now they are usu- 
 ally made of gutta-percha, the surface roughened 
 and painted before put into play. They vary in 
 
 OLD STYLES. 
 
 weight and size according to the taste of the golfer, 
 averaging, perhaps, a little under two ounces in 
 weight and a trifle under two inches in diameter. 
 
 As to the clubs used in striking the ball, the prin- 
 cipal one is known as the " driver " and is employed 
 for long distances and always in starting from the 
 tee. Like all the other clubs it consists of a wood- 
 en handle or shaft, terminating in a head of pecul- 
 iar shape. The peculiarity of the shape of the 
 driver is supposed to aid in keeping the ball, after 
 being struck, lower than any other club. The 
 "grassed driver" differs from the driver in having 
 a face that will give the ball an elevation when 
 struck ; and the " long spoon " is intended for use 
 when a still greater elevation is desired. When a 
 ball is lying in a small hollow the wooden " niblick " 
 or the " brassey " comes into play as they have 
 smaller heads than the ones previously mentioned. 
 In approaching a putting-green which has a bunk- 
 er, burn or other hazard before it the "lofting- 
 iron" is employed as it lifts a ball well without 
 sending it too far. To extricate a ball from bunk- 
 ers, cart-ruts, etc., the " iron niblick " is the best 
 club. The usefulness of the "cleek" is shown on 
 long approaches over hazardous ground and also in 
 playing a ball out of long grass and sandy soil. 
 And the " putter," as its name suggests, is intended 
 
 for holeing the ball after it has reached the putting- 
 green. These are but a few of the clubs which may 
 be used, but they are sufficient for a learner to be- 
 gin with. A complete list of all the clubs which 
 have been employed in playing the game would 
 comprise the following : 
 
 The Driver, or Play Club. 
 
 Grassed Driver. 
 
 Long Spoon. 
 
 Middle Spoon. 
 
 Short Spoon. 
 
 Balling Spoon. 
 
 Niblick. 
 
 Brassey. 
 
 Bulger. 
 
 Putter. 
 
 Driving Putter. 
 
 Iron Putter. 
 
 Cleek. 
 
 Driving Iron. 
 
 Medium, or ordinary Iron. 
 
 Lofting Iron. 
 
 Niblick. 
 
 President. 
 
 Mashy. 
 
 Wooden Clubs. - 
 
 Iron Clubs. 
 
 MODERN CLUBS. 
 
42 
 
 OUT-DOOR SFOJiTS FOR IJOYS 
 
 It is hardly necessary to say that no player would 
 think of using all of these clubs. In Great Britain 
 it is customary for each player to have an assistant 
 (called a " caddy ") to carry his clubs. 
 
 When more than four play a match the third 
 couple (of partners) follows the second and must of 
 
 AT THE END OF THE SWING. 
 
 course continue striking their ball until it is placed 
 ahead of the other two balls ; and similarly the 
 fourth couple, if so many are playing, must in their 
 turn keep at it till their ball is in the lead. But 
 more than four players make a game tedious and 
 confused. It is better for the golfers to organize 
 
 separate matches, one set of players following the 
 other over the course. This can easily be done as 
 the course is so extensive, the only precaution 
 needed being that the two sets of players keep at 
 least one hole apart. 
 
 Experienced players often give beginners odds of 
 a stroke a hole, or one every other hole (called a 
 " half "), or one every third hole (a " third "), etc., or 
 even two or more strokes a hole. That is, so many 
 strokes are deducted from the number actually 
 made by the beginner in decidingthe winner of the 
 successive points. Sometimes the odds are given 
 in the form of so many strokes in the entire match, 
 to be counted whenever the recipient of the odds 
 chooses. This is called a " bisque " and is greatly 
 to the advantage of the beginner as he can use 
 them just when they will do him the most good. 
 When odds of a " half " or a " third," etc., are given, 
 no option is allowed as to their use : they must be 
 taken at every second or third, etc., hole irrespec- 
 tive of whether they are needed at just those times 
 or not. 
 
 In medal playing each golfer is paired with one 
 opponent and each keeps a record on a card of the 
 other's play (unless a marker accompanies every 
 couple of contestants). When all have completed 
 the round the cards are compared and the award 
 made to the one who scored every hole with the 
 smallest total number of strokes. If two should 
 be tied then they must make the circuit again play- 
 ing against each other. Medal contests, as already 
 stated, are almost invariably decided by " score 
 play " and not by " hole play." 
 
CURLING. 
 
 43 
 
 CURLING. 
 
 Curling is the 
 great winter sport 
 of Scotland, and 
 in principle great- 
 ly resembles the 
 game of quoits. It 
 is played with 
 " curling stones " 
 on a field of 
 smooth ice which 
 should be about 
 fifty yards in 
 length and some 
 ten yards wide. 
 On this field of ice 
 the lines of what 
 is called " the 
 rink " are laid out. 
 A rink consists 
 of a rectangular 
 space forty-six yards long and four yards wide, near 
 each end of which a circle is drawn having a radius 
 of seven feet. The centre of each circle is termed 
 
 left within the circle nearer to the " tee " than any 
 stone of its opponents. In sliding the stone all the 
 players stand at the opposite end of the rink from 
 the " tee " played for and with both feet within a 
 smaller circle (the radius of which is eighteen inches) 
 drawn to the left (when facing the "tee" played 
 for) of a line connecting "the tees." These circles 
 should be four yards back of the "tees" and their 
 circumferences should just touch the line passing 
 through the " tees." (A left-handed player can have 
 the circle at the right of the line.) The following 
 diagram will best show how a rink should be drawn. 
 The stones used in curling are circular blocks of 
 Scotch granite, rounded on the sides, and having an 
 iron bolt through the centre, on which is screwed 
 the handle in such a way as to admit of the upper 
 part of the stone being made the lower part by 
 changing the position of the bolt. They are polished 
 so as to glide over the ice easily, the under part of 
 the stone being smoother than the upper, the latter 
 being used for very glassy ice. The stones used by 
 men weigh from thirty to fifty pounds, and measure 
 thirty-six inches in circumference, that being the 
 
 -g" 
 
 DIAGRAM OF A CURLING RINK. 
 
 the " tee " and the two centres must be just thirty- 
 two yards apart. The object of the players of each 
 party is to slide the curling stone within this circle 
 as near the " tee " as possible. There are four play- 
 ers on each side, making eight players to each rink, 
 and each player plays two stones alternately with an 
 opponent ; and if all the eight stones of one side are 
 sent within the circle, and none of those of the oppo- 
 site party, then the former score eight shots for the 
 " end " — the end in question being equivalent to an 
 inning in cricket or baseball. Should one of the 
 stones of the opposite party, however, be within the 
 circle, and also be the second stone nearest the 
 " tee," then the party having the stone nearest the 
 " tee," count one only, even though all the eight 
 stones of their side are in the circle. In other 
 words each side counts one point for every stone 
 
 limit, though they may be made smaller. The 
 heavier the stone the more polished its surface needs 
 to be ; and the best quality of granite for the pur- 
 
44 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 pose is that which admits of the finest polish. In 
 Canada some of the clubs use iron as the material 
 instead of stone, as the severe cold at times makes 
 the granite too brittle. These irons are heavier than 
 
 the stones, as their surface is necessarily smoother, 
 but they must not exceed seventy pounds in weight. 
 Curling stones suitable for boys' clubs weigh from 
 fifteen to twenty-five pounds. 
 
 In addition to his two curling stones each player 
 should also be provided with a broom to sweep the 
 rink clear of obstructions, especially of the fine ice 
 which the stones are apt to chop from its surface as 
 they slide along. 
 
 Supposing the rink to be in readiness for com- 
 mencing a match, the players and captains — techni- 
 cally called skips — -chosen, and their order of playing 
 appointed. Side No. i, having won the toss, begins 
 play by sending player A to " cast the first stone." 
 
 StriTang 
 
 X. 
 
 The skip, having taken his position at the end, di- 
 rects the player to " draw " in to a certain spot with- 
 in the circle — that is, to slide his stone as close to 
 the place pointed out as possible. Player A, of side 
 No. 2, now takes his position, and the skip of his 
 party, taking his stand at the end, directs A, No. 2, 
 
 to strike his adversary's stone out of the circle, and in 
 such a manner as to leave his own inside the circle ; 
 as he fails to do this. A, No. i takes his place to play 
 his second stone, and by the direction of the skip, 
 tries to send it so as to rest on the line directly in front 
 of his first stone lying within the circle, thereby 
 " guarding " the " winner " from being struck out of 
 the circle by the players to follow. The object of 
 side No. 2 now is first to remove this guard, and 
 having done that, to send the stone lying within the 
 circle outside of it, leaving the stone striking it out 
 within ; and then, if succeeding in this, to guard its 
 own stone left in the circle. After the first player 
 (A), from each side has cast his two stones, another 
 couple of opponents (B) step forward and alter- 
 nately try to dislodge the stones of their respective 
 adversaries (A), and place their own closer to the 
 
 "tee" than the others. So it continues, a third 
 couple (C) following the two B's and being in turn 
 succeeded by the last couple (D). 
 
 It will be readily seen that in the course of a 
 game like this an ample field is afforded for a dis- 
 play of a great deal of strategic skill, and as a mat- 
 ter of course the captain of each side has his hands 
 full of business in directing his players how to send 
 their stones to the circle and outmanoeuvring his 
 adversary. 
 
 The side which makes the greater number of 
 points in either a given time or in a certain number of 
 shots (to be agreed upon in advance) wins the 
 match. Both sides, of course, play for the same 
 " tee " until all eight have each cast their two 
 stones ; then they all reverse and play for the oppo- 
 site end. 
 
POLO. 
 
 45 
 
 POLO. 
 
 The game of polo is simply " hockey" played 
 while on horseback. It is, of course, a sport only 
 available for wealthy people, as the ponies or " mus- 
 tangs" trained for the game are expensive animals, 
 and each player requires to have two at command, 
 not only to relieve one animal from over-fatigue in 
 a match, but also in case accidents happen — and 
 
 double that size. In the middle of it, at each of 
 the two ends, will be placed the goals, as at foot- 
 ball; and it is, of course, the object of each side 
 to drive the ball between the posts marking the 
 adversary's goal. 
 
 The great attraction of polo, which has made it 
 popular among those who can afford to play it, is 
 
 POLO. 
 
 accidents do happen in it frequently, for it is a 
 rather dangerous amusement. The ground re- 
 quired for this sport must be larger in size than a 
 field which would do for " hockey " ; and it should 
 be of level turf, without swampy places or inter- 
 secting roads. A space of 120 yards in length and 
 70 in width is the smallest that should be used ; 
 and it is far better if a ground can be secured of 
 
 to be found in the horsemanship which is required 
 of the players, as well as in the difficulty met with 
 in hitting the ball. The stroke is made with a 
 long club like a mallet, whereas in hockey it is 
 hooked and projects only on one side, so that the 
 ball may be either driven forcibly forward or partly 
 drawn and partly pushed along the ground. Polo 
 is, in short, almost diametrically opposite in its 
 
46 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 system to hockey, in which dribbling is the most 
 important part of the game, and proficiency in 
 keeping with the ball and following it all over the 
 field is the chief qualification of a first-rate player. 
 There are two strokes common in polo — the for- 
 ward and the back-handed, and the latter is ex- 
 tremely useful when the ball is flying towards the 
 goal, and a defender thereof, galloping after it, 
 overtakes it in time, and by one clever back-hit 
 sends it away far behind his back towards his 
 friends. The rules of polo do not usually include 
 any restrictions as to off-side, and thus a skilful 
 player will so place his ball as to elude the enemy, 
 and find its way toward one of his own side. There 
 are generally eight players on each side ; and they 
 
 should be distinguished by a contrast of color in 
 their costume, as it would be otherwise impossible 
 in the heat of action to know friend from foe. 
 
 As for the ponies used in polo, the chief requi- 
 sites are that they should be swift, both.in a straight- 
 forward course and at the turn, afraid of nothing, 
 and obedient to the slightest movement of the 
 rider. These, it may be thought, are rather heavy 
 demands to make ; and, in effect, a good polo pony 
 ought to be worth a handsome price — a much more 
 handsome one than he generally fetches in the 
 market. For an animal which is really good for 
 polo must be good for almost everything else, and 
 more especially for teaching a person how to ride, 
 and how to become in all respects a good horseman. 
 
 BADMINTON. 
 
 Of all games of skill badminton is perhaps the 
 least-known by the public at large. It has come to 
 us from India, where for more than a dozen years 
 it has been a favorite pastime of the English 
 officers, and is now fast gaining a strong foothold 
 in America. Though it may be played within the 
 house its proper place is out of doors, where 
 there is more room for vigorous action than within 
 a parlor or hall. It calls for nearly as much agility 
 and quickness as tennis, and, although the exercise 
 required is not violent, the enjoyment experienced 
 by the players in a closely contested game is just as 
 keen as in the more widely-known sister game. 
 For an indifferent player, badminton is much the 
 better form of sport, and the girls and women who go 
 in for it are more enthusiastic in its support than 
 the most confirmed players of tennis. 
 
 The game is played in a court laid out somewhat 
 similarly to a (single) lawn tennis court. Its dimen- 
 sions must depend, of course, upon the space avail- 
 able, but twenty-eight feet by twenty feet makes a 
 fair average sized one. The net is from two feet to 
 two feet six inches in breadth and, instead of being 
 set upon the ground or floor, is on long poles, and 
 is hung at a distance of from five feet six inches to 
 six feet from the surface of the court. Instead of 
 balls, shuttlecocks, or " birds," as they are techni- 
 cally called, are used. The racquets or bats with 
 which they are knocked about are generally of a 
 lighter weight and somewhat smaller than the 
 
 ordinary tennis racquet, although the tennis racquet 
 can be and is often used. For in-door playing a 
 "bird" weighing half an ounce is used, but out-doors, 
 on account of the wind, one weighing an ounce and 
 three-quarters, loaded and covered with rubber, to 
 prevent injury from moisture, is preferable. 
 
 From one to four persons play on a side, and the 
 shuttlecock or " bird " must in all instances be re- 
 turned on a " volley " or before it touches the court 
 surface. The " birds " are served and returned in 
 the same manner as in lawn tennis., except that 
 if the shuttlecock falls to the court surface it is 
 counted a miss to the player who fails to return it 
 and to his side. The service is from the outer cor- 
 ners of the service courts, the player standing with 
 both feet within a section of a circle drawn two 
 feet and six inches from the corner. The divisions 
 of the courts are only observed on the serve, and 
 the players can stand where they please on their 
 own sides after it. The shuttlecock must be served 
 so that it falls within the lines of the service court 
 as in tennis, and clear of the net-ropes and posts. 
 If the net is touched in the service and the " bird " 
 fails over, the stroke is called a " let" and does not 
 count against the player. 
 
 In play, however, the touching of the net by the 
 shuttlecock when it goes over counts as a good 
 stroke. If the net is touched by the racquets of the 
 players, or if they reach over the net with their rac- 
 quets, the stroke counts against them. Two " faults" 
 
ARCHERY. 
 
 47 
 
 put " hand out," and in all cases " birds " falling over the net, it is always noticed if the " bird " 
 
 upon boundary lines are regarded as "faults," both is struck before it has crossed the net and merely 
 
 in service and in play. Fifteen points constitute been followed over by the racquet of the player, 
 
 the game. No overhand stroke is allowed on the In this case it is a good stroke, but if the racquet 
 
 service. In judging whether a player has reached itself touches the net the play is counted a miss. 
 
 ARCHERY. 
 
 The great drawback to 
 archery is apt to be the 
 expense attending it, as 
 a good bow with suitable 
 arrows cannot be bought 
 for a trifle, to say nothing 
 of the other fittings consid- 
 ered desirable and which 
 add to the comfort and 
 convenience of the marks- 
 man. But after the first 
 outlay is made and one is 
 supplied with what is 
 needful, future expenses 
 can be made very small 
 and the archer can get a 
 great deal of healthful amusement, either by him- 
 self or in company with others, at little additional 
 cost unless, indeed, he belongs to a high-priced 
 club, in which case he may find his pleasure by no 
 means cheaply purchased. 
 
 Standing in front of a circular target thirty yards 
 distant, and watching the movements of a prac- 
 tised archer as he grasps his bow, places an ar- 
 row in position and then with comparative ease 
 sends it flying into the centre of the "gold," the 
 whole movement with its final result looks so sim- 
 ple, so easy of attainment, that a casual observer 
 would be apt to think the sport rather too much of 
 boy's play for men to engage in. But when the 
 novice tries his hand at this-apparently simple act, 
 and realizes, by practical experiment, what diffi- 
 culties beset him and what a number of things he 
 has to learn to do before he himself can hit any 
 part of the target at all, his respect for the sport is 
 very apt to increase in the ratio of the obstacles he 
 meets with in his test of its merits. 
 
 To aim with a bow is very different from aiming 
 with a gun or a rifle. In the one case you shoulder 
 your rifle, and running your Ime of sight along the 
 
 barrel, you literally take deliberate aim. In doing 
 this, the steadier your nerve the truer your aim ; 
 but "the mind intent" has little, comparatively, to,- 
 do with it. It is a combination of keen sight, 
 steady nerve and straight aim. But with the bow 
 it is different. Here the mental work to be done 
 is everything. In archery the word aim, in the 
 familiar sense of the word as applied to a rifle, is 
 inapplicable. Experience teaches the practised 
 archer to aim with his mind, as it were. You in- 
 tuitively feel that you have your bow in the right 
 position to send the arrow flying to the centre of 
 the target. Moreover, you look solely at the 
 "gold" centre of the target, in shooting with a 
 bow, and never at your bow or the arrow, as it lies 
 on your hand with bow arched ready for the final 
 "loose." It is this feeling your aim, instead of 
 seeing it, that is a peculiarity of the art of arch- 
 ery. This comes 
 only by the famil- 
 iarity of continu- 
 ous practice. 
 
 To hold the bow 
 firmly with the left 
 hand, as if it were 
 in a vise, is the 
 first letter of the 
 archer's alphabet. 
 The second is to 
 bend the bow to 
 the arrow's head 
 properly, and the 
 third, to "loose" 
 the cord from the 
 finger of the right 
 hand at the right moment. This is the A B C of 
 archery. Then comes the placing of the arrow in 
 position ; seeing that it is " nocked " in the right 
 place on the string; that the "cock-feather" is up- 
 permost, and that the tips of the fingers are proper- 
 
48 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ly on the string, etc. When the familiarity of con- 
 stant practice has made the proper form for all these 
 details a regular habit, then one will be prepared for 
 the mental study of the situation, and then comes 
 "the headwork of archery," so to speak; and just 
 as you are able to excel in this will you become a 
 skilful archer. 
 
 Another important matter is the position of the 
 body when drawing the bow and shooting the 
 arrow. One should not directly face the target as 
 is done when firing a rifle, but should stand with 
 the side of the body toward the target, the face 
 turned so as to look over the left shoulder. 
 
 especially those which are brought into action in 
 pulling the bow-string back as far as the length of 
 the arrow admits of. At first it will feel like a very 
 constrained position and be painful; but as the 
 arm becomes trained to its new work all that dis- 
 appears. To girls who are accustomed to weak 
 muscles of the chest and arms from their unem- 
 ployment this new exercise may come hard ; 
 but its advantage repays all that they may 
 temporarily suffer from. When one has learned 
 to " pull the string " correctly, he will have to 
 attend to the comparatively simple matter of 
 letting the cord slip from his fingers. Any one 
 
 QUIVER. 
 
 BELT. 
 
 BRACE. 
 
 GLOVE. 
 
 To Stand firm and steady is the object, so as to 
 avoid any varying of the steady position of the left 
 arm when it is extended. At first the novice will 
 naturally find this position an awkward one, but 
 practice will render it familiar. The left arm, too, 
 when extended and when first called upon to re- 
 sist the pull of the right arm in bending the bow, 
 will be apt to shake and be unsteady. To avoid 
 this one should practise holding out at arm's 
 length a weight equalling that of the bow. Any 
 exercise, too, which will strengthen the muscles of 
 the wrist of the left arm will be found advan- 
 tageous. This arm is the lever on which one de- 
 pends for a correct delivery of the arrow. As it is 
 raised or lowered so will the arrow fly high or low. 
 Also if the arm is bent the power to draw the bow 
 to the arrow's head is lessened. All these little de- 
 tails have to be borne in mind in practice. Not 
 one of them must be forgotten. By this means 
 only can a regular habit — a correct form — be at- 
 tained. Then comes the matter of the using of the 
 right arm. Here, too, new muscles come into play. 
 
 practising with a bow, unless the cuticle of his 
 fingers is as thick as that of a day laborer, will have 
 to wear leather finger-tips, and the face of these 
 should be sufficiently soft and pliant to let the cord 
 glide from them easily. In holding the cord, too, 
 there is but one right way, and that is to let the 
 end of the arrow, as it lies on the cord, be between 
 the first and second fingers, the tips of those fingers 
 being held on the cord. To let go the cord at the 
 right time is an important point, a good " loose " be- 
 ing essential in aiding the correct flight of the arrow. 
 Stand steady, hold the left arm out straight and 
 firm, look at the " gold " as you bend the bow, and 
 the moment the eye is on the centre of the 
 target and the bow is bent to the arrow's head, 
 loosen the hold on the cord with a quick, easy 
 motion. As the arrow leaves the bow, if all the 
 movements have been correct and in harmony, 
 with the thought in your mind that the arrow 
 ought to go right to the gold, ten to one but it will 
 go there, and just as often as the thought and 
 motion harmoniously correspond. 
 
FENCING. 
 
 49 
 
 FENCING. 
 
 MASK. 
 
 Though the practice of 
 duelling has happily gone 
 out of fashion all over the 
 civilized world, the art of 
 fencing, originated by it, 
 is not by any means to be 
 despised as a thing whose 
 usefulness passed away 
 with the barbarous custom 
 which gave it birth. For a 
 • knowledge of fencing is not 
 only still of service to the 
 soldier, and even to the 
 civilian in teaching him 
 how to defend with the 
 sword his life and the lives 
 of others when in danger, but it is also of the greatest 
 use in imparting confidence to the mmd, in giving 
 grace to the bearing, in rendering the wrist more 
 flexible and supple and in training the eye to see 
 quickly and accurately. It is m every way a thor- 
 oughly manly accomplishment and a most delightful 
 and healthful exercise. 
 
 First in importance in connection with it is the 
 " foil," the modern instrument which takes the 
 place of the more deadly sword once employed. If 
 one can learn to handle the foil effectively he need 
 not fear, should occasion arise, to use the sword — 
 as the two are essentially alike in all respects save 
 only point and edge. The blade of a foil should be 
 thirty-three or thirty-four inches long, four-sided 
 and tapering gradually toward a blunt point (if a 
 point may ever be called blunt) which should be 
 covered with a button to prevent any risk of acci- 
 dents. The part of a blade (about one-third its 
 length) nearer the hilt is called the ' forte " and the 
 remainder the " foible." The hilt (or handle) is 
 usually five inches long and is shaped so as to fit 
 the hand. It should be covered with wood, and 
 should end in a weighted ' pummel," slightly bent, 
 so as to balance the foil and make it come up well 
 in the hand. 
 
 Next to the foil in relative importance comes the 
 mask which covers the face to protect it from any 
 possible mischance. It should be made of stout 
 wire and should always be carefully inspected before 
 use to see that none of the links are loose or falling 
 and that the top bar across the front does not inter- 
 
 fere with the sight. The fit of the mask is impor- 
 tant as it is impossible to watch an adversary closely 
 if the mask shifts about uneasily with every motion 
 of the head. 
 
 A slightly padded glove, flexible and close-fitting, 
 is an essential in guarding the hand wielding the 
 foil. The thumb, particularly, needs to be pro- 
 tected as its tip is apt to be jarred and so the grasp " 
 of the foil become impaired. A stiff jacket is of 
 value in offering some resistance if a foil should 
 happen to break. The jacket should have a high 
 collar so that no part of the throat be exposed 
 between it and the mask. The high collar also 
 saves the fencer from thrusting his head forward to i 
 protect his bare . 
 throat which 
 both spoils his 
 attitude and 
 subjects his mask 
 to being constantly 
 struck by his oppo- 
 nent's foil, a jarring and 
 disconcerting effect. Side 
 pads, in addition to the jack- 
 et, are also sometimes worn 
 as a further safeguard to the 
 body. 
 
 The proper method of 
 holding the "foil is to place 
 the thumb on the upper part 
 of the " grip " (the wooden 
 covering of the hilt), which 
 should be broader by about 
 an eighth or a quarter of an 
 inch than the sides, taking 
 care not to keep the thumb 
 too close to the hilt and 
 bending it back so as to 
 avoid getting the tip jarred 
 in a harsh encounter of 
 blades. Then let the fingers 
 close on the grip, but so as 
 in no case to trespass on the 
 part appropriated by the thumb. All the play, in 
 fencing, is restricted to the fingers and wrist, the 
 arm acting a subordinate part. Therefore the 
 right way of holding the foil, which develops the 
 nervous strength of the fingers and gives free scope 
 
 PRELIMINARY 
 POSITION. 
 
5° 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 to the wrist, is essential ; and though it is painful 
 to most persons to acquire, as at first it makes the 
 fingers stiff and the thumb ache, these drawbacks 
 must not be allowed to stand in the way. 
 Of what are called " positions " in fencing the 
 
 ON GUARD. 
 
 first in order is known as " on guard." As a pre- 
 liminary to this the foil should be taken in the right 
 hand, with the finger-nails up, the point turned 
 towards the ground, and the elbow in line with the 
 hip ; the body should be erect, the left arm close to 
 the side, its hand turned palm outwards, and the 
 heels together, the right foot pointing straight to 
 the front and the left foot to the left. The body 
 should be turned as far as possible to the left, head 
 and eyes to the front. Then the foil should be 
 raised (pointing upwards) to the front to the full 
 extent of the arm. 
 
 As far as possible using only wrist and fingers, 
 and turning the nails down so long only as to enable 
 you to execute the curve, drop the point of the foil, 
 and bring it round towards the body in a circular 
 sweep, ending with the point on a level with, and 
 directed towards, the mask of an imaginary oppo- 
 nent ; the hand should be on a line with your left 
 breast, and the elbow just clear of the right hip. 
 
 While you are executing the curve, raise the left 
 arm up until it is on a line with the shoulder, arch- 
 ing the wrist so as to let the fingers droop forward 
 unconstrainedly. Then, still keeping the body erect 
 and firm, lower it by bending the knees ; advance 
 
 the right foot in a straight line twice its own length, 
 as nearly as may be ; and this will bring you into 
 the position of "on guard." (Strictly speaking 
 this is only one of the " guard " positions. But the 
 others are only variations of it.) 
 
 The next thing to learn is to move easily forwards 
 or backwards, as occasion may require, without 
 losing correctness of position and disarranging the 
 balance. The " advance " is performed by advanc- 
 ing the right foot a short, firm step, and following 
 it up smartly by bringing up the left foot a like 
 distance. The "retreat" is effected in a similar 
 manner, by stepping back with the left foot first, 
 and following it up by a like step with the right. 
 The object in each case is to maintain, on the new 
 ground to which you have advanced or retired, the 
 same relative position as the one in which you were 
 on the ground you have quitted. 
 
 As the basis of every attack in fencing is the 
 " thrust," the position now to be described, its exact 
 performance is of the highest importance. It is, 
 however, a very simple movement and is made by 
 dropping the point, more or less, according as the 
 spot you wish to threaten is higher or lower, and 
 straightening the arm. The thrust serves in two 
 capacities; the one as an end, when the opponent 
 has come to close quarters and can be hit by 
 straightening the arm without any forward move- 
 ment of the body on your part, which is called the 
 
 f 
 
 LUNGE. 
 
 " riposte ; " the other as a means, when it is an in- 
 dispensable prelude to every attack on the move. 
 The two rules to be borne in mind are that the 
 arm must be absolutely straight and the point lower 
 than the hand. 
 
FENCING. 
 
 Having given the thrust with the full extent of 
 the arm, shoot out the right foot about twice its 
 own length, at the same time driving the body for- 
 ward by straightening the left leg, and 
 dropping the left arm smartly to the side 
 with the palm of the hand outwards. This 
 position or movement is the " lunge." The 
 body should be kept well braced up while 
 making the lunge, and the head be erect. 
 
 Getting back to the position of guard 
 after making a lunge is known as " recov- 
 ery " and is executed by drawing back the 
 right foot, bending the left knee, raising 
 the left arm and bending the right, all as in the 
 position of guard. 
 
 mik 
 
 ILtno 
 
 Liiiei 
 
 Linet 
 
 JACKET SHOWING LINES. 
 
 It should be borne in mind that all these posi- 
 tions are relative, and the beginner must be on his 
 guard against thinking that, because each has to be 
 practised at first separately, it stands by itself, and 
 has no connection with the others. A free, power- 
 ' ful lunge is a thing to be greatly desired ; 
 but it takes very little to turn aside the 
 point and carry it wide of the mark, in 
 which case, unless you can pull yourself 
 together, you would, in a contest, be at the 
 mercy of your opponent. Similarly on the 
 recovery, do not plant yourself heavily, but 
 be ready, if need be, to dart forward again 
 on the instant. 
 Therefore, in practice, remember that 
 
 PARRY OF QUARTE. 
 
 each movement is one of a connected series, and 
 while you strive to gain in pace and force, this 
 must not be done at the expense of balance and 
 control. 
 
 For the purposes of defence and attack the sur- 
 face of a fencing jacket is mapped out into four 
 quarters, the upper being called " high lines " and 
 the lower " low lines." These lines are again divi- 
 ded into sides, the right or outside, and the left or 
 inside, jn order to define as clearly as possible the 
 precise area threatened by the various attacks and 
 covered by the different parries. There are in all 
 eight primary parries, two of which are told off to 
 defend each of the four lines and bear the same 
 names as the attacks to which they correspond. 
 Thus attack and parry in the high lines on the 
 right side are said to be made in sixte, if the hand 
 is in supination (finger nails up), and in tierce, if 
 the hand is in pronation (finger nails down). 
 
 Parries should be made as far as possible with 
 the wrist and fingers, and as little as possible with 
 the arm. With few exceptions, they are made with 
 a light, quick tap of the forte of one blade on the 
 foible of the other ; and they are invariably made 
 with one or other of the edges of the blade, and not 
 with the flat sides. It must always be borne in 
 mind that it does not require a heavy stroke to turn 
 
 PARRY OF SEPTIME. 
 
52 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 aside even the most powerful lunge, and that harsh 
 parries are the death cf good fencing, inasmuch as 
 they rob it of all fineness and delicacy of touch, and 
 involve an altogether disproportionate waste of 
 time and space. Parries are classified as " simple," 
 
 PARRY OF SIXTE. 
 
 in which the opponent's blade is followed into the 
 line of attack, on his change, and there warded off ; 
 and " counter," in which the opponent's blade, as 
 he is in the act of changing into another line, is, by 
 describing a circle round it with the point, envel- 
 oped and brought back into the line from which it 
 started, and there deflected. 
 
 Attacks should be made with the point below the 
 hand and with an absolutely straight arm, and one 
 should be careful always to cover well in the line in 
 which he is attacking. The different forms of at- 
 tack are divided into : 
 
 I. Primary, initiated by oneself with the intention 
 of scoring by pace, fraud or force, and which are 
 therefore subdivided into — 
 
 (i) Simple, made on the lunge, the object of which 
 is by superior neatness and quickness to 
 hit the opponent before he can parry, 
 without any attempt to disguise the direc- 
 tion of the attack. 
 
 (2) Feints, the purpose of which is to in- 
 duce your opponent, by some preliminary 
 movement of the hand, to think that you 
 are going to hit him in one particular line, 
 so that on his offering a parry to protect 
 that line, you may deceive it and be free to 
 complete the attack by lunging in another 
 line ; and — 
 
 (3) Force, by which, finding your op- 
 ponent covered, you attack his blade with 
 sufficient vigor to turn it aside and make an open- 
 ing for your point on the lunge ; or by which, on 
 some movement of his blade in the direction of 
 one line, you encircle it with yours and, carrying 
 
 it off in an opposite line, urge your point home 
 with strong opposition. 
 
 2. Secondary, intended to out-manoeuvre or re- 
 taliate upon attacks initiated by the opponent in 
 one or other of their different stages, and therefore 
 
 subdivided into — 
 
 (i) Attacks on the preparation, to arrest 
 his movements before he matures his 
 plans. _J 
 
 (2) Attacks on the development, prin- 
 cipally " time " attacks, whereby, having 
 anticipated in what line your opponent's 
 attack will be delivered, you intercept his 
 blade as he gives in his attack, and go to 
 meet it by straightening your arm and de- 
 livering in the point with a strong opposi- 
 tion on the lunge or half lunge, according 
 to the distance between you ; and — 
 
 (3) Attacks on the completion, when 
 the opponent has brought himself within thrusting 
 range on his lunge. These are called " ripostes," 
 and are made from the position of the parry, what- 
 ever it may be, which has been used to stop the op- 
 ponent's primary attack. As the point is delivered 
 in while the opponent is extended on the lunge or 
 in the act of recovering, they are, almost without 
 exception, unaccompanied by any movement of the 
 foot. 
 
 Ripostes which are made after parrying a riposte 
 are called "counter-ripostes." 
 
 3. Decoy (or false) attacks, not made with the in- 
 tention of hitting the opponent, but only to lure 
 him on, say, to attack you in some line, in order 
 that, when he does so, you may, for instance, dis- 
 concert him by an emphatic parry, and lead up to 
 
 PARRY OF OCTAVE. 
 
 an effective return. These attacks are, therefore, 
 not made on the lunge, as a slight movement of the 
 foot (if any) is all that is needed. 
 This is only a general classification of the many 
 
SKATING, 
 
 53 
 
 forms of attack known to swordsmen. A list and 
 description of all the variations in the thrust and 
 lunge — ^the "disengage," the "coupe" (or "cut- 
 over"), the "one-two," the "doifble," the "graze," 
 etc. — would be tedious to read and would only bur- 
 den and confuse the mind. Enough has been said 
 to show that fencing is by no means a simple art, 
 and that to become skilled in it requires consider- 
 able practice and patience. Coolness and quickness. 
 
 care and precision are the qualities most needed if 
 one would be an adept. But its exercise is not only 
 beneficial to the body, it occupies the mind as well, 
 for one cannot let his thoughts wander when facing 
 a proficient antagonist. Like most other sports 
 and amusements worthy of their name expertness 
 cannot be acquired by books alone. A few lessons 
 from a master of the foils is absolutely essential to 
 understand their proper use. 
 
 SKATING 
 
 In acquiring a practical knowledge of any special 
 art, there is nothing which will aid you so much as 
 confidence in your ability to accomplish what you 
 are about to undertake. Confidence is a great es- 
 sential in learning to skate. In this respect it is 
 like learning to swim. What the fear of sinking is 
 to the young swimmer, so is the fear of falling to 
 the young skater. Courage and nerve are essential 
 qualifications for a skater. Fear of a fall is a strong 
 barrier to progress in a practical knowledge of the 
 art, and the nerve required to attempt some difficult 
 feat or other, involving risks of a severe fall, is very 
 necessary. . 
 
 The first thing to be done after putting on a pair 
 of good-fitting skates for the first time, is to learn 
 to walk with them on the ice. After you have 
 learned to preserve your equilibrium on the ice in 
 this way, and you begin to have confidence, you then 
 commence the next step in the art, and that is to 
 learn to strike out. To attain the most rapid suc- 
 cess in learning to skate you must advance by slow 
 degrees. Attempting to do too much at one time 
 is always a drawback to your progress. In the first 
 place, you will find that the effort to balance your- 
 self on the rather narrow edge of the runner of 
 your skate brings into active and rather painful 
 exercise comparatively unused muscles of the an- 
 kles and legs. To go on testing the strength or 
 endurance of these beyond a certain point of fa- 
 tigue, is to retard rather than advance yourself in 
 the art. The moment the muscles of your ankles 
 or legs begin to feel the effects of the unwonted 
 strain, give them a ten minutes' rest or so. In this 
 way the muscles which are specially brought into 
 play in skating will gradually but surely get trained 
 into doing the work required of them. 
 
 After learning to walk well on your skates, the 
 next step to be made is to learn to strike out. In 
 doing this you first learn to propel yourself on the 
 ice on one foot while using the other to push your- 
 self forward. When you can propel yourself on the 
 ice tolerably well with first one foot and then the 
 other, you enter upon the first plain forward move- 
 ment of the regular skating programme, and begin 
 to strike out in earnest. In accomplishing this 
 second lesson in the rudiments of the art you will 
 see that it is but an extension or variation of the 
 movement of the first lesson — viz., that of propell- 
 ing yourself with one foot. While in the first 
 movement one skate is kept sliding on the ice 
 while the other pushes it forward, in the second 
 movement the right foot is sent sliding forward on 
 a half circle while the left is temporarily lifted from 
 the ice, leaving you balancing yourself for a moment 
 on the right foot as you move forward, the left 
 foot next becoming the balance foot while the right 
 is lifted. 
 
 As you progress by practice and gain confidence 
 you must extend the length of the strokes, making 
 them regular and with an easy motion, not forget- 
 ting grace of movement in the very beginning of 
 your practice. Of course in doing even this little in 
 skating, falls are likely to be frequent, and their 
 frequency is generally in proportion to the degree 
 of confidence the skater possesses and the excita- 
 bility of his temperament — the cool and collected '^ 
 individual invariably preserving his balance on the 
 ice the best. 
 
 The first movements of the novice on skates are 
 made on the inside edge of the skate runner ; but 
 this is only peculiar to the ABC work of the art. 
 The fundamental basis of all expert efforts on skates 
 
54 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 is the movement on the outer edge. This once at- 
 tained, to any degree of skill, the key to all fancy 
 skating is then at command. The great essential 
 in learning to skate on the " outside edge," or to do 
 the " outer roll," as it is called, is once more confi- 
 dence. If your skate has a keen edge it is just as 
 safe to lean over on as it is to lean on the inside 
 edge in doing the first movement in striking out. 
 
 To attain the outside edge movement successfully 
 and with the least risk of falling, you must try the 
 first steps of the cross roll ; by this means you are 
 at once obliged to use the outside edge of the skate. 
 To skate the " cross roll," the skater stands as in 
 learning the outside edge, and starting on the right 
 foot, crosses the left over it. But instead of repeat- 
 ing the movement, and so forming a circle, he 
 immediately crosses the right foot again over the 
 left, and so on. Then, instead of making one large 
 circle, he forms a succession of arcs of circles, by 
 which he is carried forward. The legs should be 
 crossed over each other as far as possible, and the 
 skater should not be content until he can even 
 cross the knees. This is a very pretty movement 
 when neatly done, and one of the most graceful on 
 the ice. The hands must hang quite easily and 
 •quietly, and the body carried uprightly without 
 being stiffened. 
 
 Let it be a rule, without exception, to keep the 
 knees straight when skating. ' Nothing looks more 
 ■clumsy or awkward than a skater who keeps his 
 knees bent. And even if he can cut all the rarest 
 figures, the bent knees destroy their effect, and the 
 skater still remains ungraceful. 
 
 In figure-skating, which is the fine-art part of the 
 sport, the one first learned is usually " three " or 
 " eight." The latter is really the simpler 
 of the two, and is accomplished by the 
 skater's making an entire circle before 
 he crosses his feet. So that, if his right 
 foot starts on the upper circle, his left 
 makes the lower one. (Always start 
 from the point where the circles cut each 
 other.) At first the skater will find some difficulty 
 ! in getting quite round the circles, but he will soon 
 accomplish that object if he slightly swing the off- 
 leg round toward the toes of the other. In good 
 skating, the course is entirely steered by the foot 
 that is off the ice ; that which is on it only serving 
 to sustain the skater. 
 
 The figure " three " is ii.ade by the skater's start- 
 ing as before on the right foot as if he were to make 
 
 an "eight," but doing it as gently as possible. 
 Then, instead of swinging the left foot round so as 
 to make a circle, he lets it retnain at least a foot 
 behind theright foot. The consequence of so doing 
 is, that when three-fourths of the circle are com- 
 pleted, the off-foot gives a curious sway to the 
 flody, and the skater spins round 
 on his right foot, changing at 
 the same time from the outside 
 to the inside edge, and cuts the 
 second half of the " three " back- 
 ward. When the skater can do 
 this easily with the right foot, 
 he should practise it with the left; and when he 
 can cut the " three " with equal ease with either 
 foot, he should cut two together, as seen in the 
 drawing. Let the reader here refer to the drawing 
 and trace the skater through it. He begins with 
 the left-hand " three," starting with his left foot on 
 the outside edge ; when he gets to the twist of 
 the "three" he spins round, and finishes the fig- 
 ure (still with the left foot) on the inside edge back- 
 ward. 
 
 When the skater has become familiar with the 
 preceding movements, he should turn his attention 
 to the movement backward on the outside edge. 
 A good method of learning this movemtnt is by 
 starting to cut a "three," and immediately after 
 the twist to place the outside edge of the off-foot 
 on the ice, at the same time lifting the other foot. 
 This is soon acquired, and assists the learner in the 
 movement of the cross roll backwards, one of the 
 most graceful and skilful performances on ice. 
 
 In learning the back cross roll, the skater need 
 not start with any impetus at all. Let him merely 
 stand still, place the left outside edge well into the 
 ice, lean slightly upon that side, and gently swing 
 the other foot round until it has crossed the left 
 foot and is planted with its outside edge on the ice. 
 The left foot is thejn crossed behind the right, and 
 it will be found that the mere swing of the foot and 
 leg is sufficiently powerful to urge the skater back- 
 ward. The greatest care should be taken to avoid 
 too great an impetus at starting, and in a short 
 time the skater will find himself able to glide over 
 the ice in this manner with perfect ease. 
 
 Expertness in these few movements will render 
 all forms of figure-skating easy to learn and will en- 
 title one to rank as thoroughly proficient in the ice- 
 art — one of the most pleasant and healthful amuse- 
 ments to be found in the winter months. 
 
5(5 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ROLLER-SKATING 
 
 Roller-skating, though often looked down 
 upon by ice-skaters who are apt to regard it as a 
 much inferior amusement, has many advantages not 
 shared by the other. It is not dependent upon the 
 weather; it can be enjoyed under shelter and on 
 
 moonless nights; the surface under foot can more 
 easily be kept in good condition; and conveniences 
 for resting, etc., can more readily be provided. There 
 is no danger, moreover, of breaking through thin ice 
 and so causing a wetting or more serious mishap, 
 and girls and young children are not exposed to the 
 severe cold and chills they risk when on the ice. 
 
 The roller-skates first used were formed of four 
 hard-wood wheels or hard rubber, placed one after 
 the other on the centre line of the skate. Nothing 
 could be accomplished with these beyond a forward 
 glide and this only with considerable exertion. 
 More recently a skate was invented with two pairs 
 of wheels, one forward and one back, which enable 
 the skater to move in circles by leaningto one side or 
 the other. This was a great improvement, and the 
 amusement which heretofore had only been indulged 
 in by quite young children was imme- 
 ,diately adopted not only by their older 
 brothers and sisters but by grown people 
 as well, and soon rinks, as they were 
 called, were fitted up in cities and towns all 
 over the world for the practice of the art. 
 
 In putting on roller-skates for the first 
 time the learner will see at once that he 
 can only slip backward and forward, and 
 that side slipping is almost impossible. 
 He should first, therefore, learn to balance him- 
 self on them with a view to avoid the forward or 
 backward slide, and this is best done by learning 
 to walk on them ; by this means the muscles of the 
 
 ankles are gradually trained to the work of ob- 
 taining command of the feet in the balancing. 
 When he can walk pretty well on them he should 
 begin to slide along easily and slowly, not turn- 
 ing his skate on the floor, but allowing the change 
 of direction to be made by lifting each foot about 
 an inch from the floor. In doing this he should 
 move the body forward and outward, so as to 
 balance well on the foot he moves forward. The 
 outside roll is the key movement for all evolutions 
 on roller-skates ; for when this beautiful movement 
 is acquired all the others follow easily. Ice-skaters 
 who excel on the steel runners always make the 
 mistake of trying to do too much when they begin 
 roller-skating. They seem to imagine that all they 
 have to do is to put on the rollers and proceed at 
 once to execute all the difficult movements they are 
 familiar with on ice-skates, instead of first perfect- 
 ing themselves in the fundamental rules of the new 
 art. 
 
 It should be understood, at the outset, that 
 learning to skate on the ice and learning to glide 
 along with ease on roller skates are two different 
 things. In ice-skating not only has the learner to 
 guard against slipping forward and backward, but 
 against side slipping, while he has also to learn to 
 balance himself on a narrow edge, which is, of 
 course, trying to the muscles of the ankles, especi- 
 ally for girls and women. In this latter respect the 
 roller-skate possesses a great advantage over ice- 
 skates, inasmuch as, from its peculiar construction, 
 it supports the ankle in an upright position, and 
 prevents it from turning over beyond a given point; 
 
 hence, ladies and children who do not possess 
 strength in the ankles to balance themselves upon 
 the narrow edge of an ice-skate can learn to skate 
 upon the rollers with ease. 
 
ICE-BOATING. 
 
 57 
 
 ICE-BOATING. 
 
 There is no winter sport more exciting or thrill- 
 ing than sailing before a strong breeze in an 
 ice-boat. True it is not without danger to the 
 inexperienced, but such a one should never go in a 
 boat of any kind, excepting as a passenger. To one 
 who is cool-headed and who understands the man- 
 
 and inexpensive one can be made which will give 
 its owner probably as much pleasure as the most 
 highly priced ones do their possessors. 
 
 Reduced to its elements an ice-boat is only a 
 frame of wood on runners with one or more sails 
 attached. A simple one can be constructed by 
 
 agement of sail-boats there is as perfect safety on the 
 ice as in the water and the most timid can entrust 
 themselves to his care with the absolute assurance 
 that they will sufEer no harm and will enjoy the very 
 keenest delight. 
 
 Ice-boating is purely an American invention and 
 an American pastime, being scarcely known outside 
 of the United States and Canada. So far has it 
 been carried in our country that very expensive 
 yachts have been built (some over sixty feet long 
 and carrying a thousand feet or more of sail) and a 
 number of clubs have been formed. But the boat 
 need not be large or costly ; indeed a veiy simple 
 
 fastening two boards together (one about five feet 
 long and the other three and a half feet) in the 
 form of a cross, the top of it (the bow of the boat) 
 extending a foot beyond the cross-piece. Under 
 each end of the cross-piece an ordinary, old-fash- 
 ioned skate should be firmly secured, and a third 
 skate should be placed under the stern end of the 
 longer plank. This last skate should be attached 
 so that it can be readily turned, as its purpose is to 
 serve as the rudder of the boat. The mast should 
 be stepped where the two boards cross. The boat 
 should be braced by running strips of wood from 
 each end of the cross-piece to the bow and stern. 
 
58 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 On this framework other boards can be placed to 
 make the boat more comfortable or it can be used 
 without these additional boards. Such a boat will 
 only accommodate one person, who sits near the 
 
 stern on the long plank with his feet resting on the 
 cross-piece. A helm of some sort should be. made 
 to control the rudder skate, as the results would be 
 serious if the rudder were unmanageable. This can 
 readily be done by boring a hole at the end of the 
 
 long plank in which a small post can be placed. 
 The skate is then fastened to the bottom of the 
 post which projects slightly below the plank and a 
 bar across the top of the post with tiller ropes 
 attached will complete the steering apparatus of 
 the craft. Instead of a rudder the steering may be 
 done by the feet, as in coasting ; only in this case 
 they should have skates on. If that is done the 
 skate under the stern should be made stationary. 
 The steersman can make himself more comfortable 
 by putting some sort of a seat in front of his helm 
 to sit on instead of on the plank. His feet could 
 then rest on the plank and not on the cross-piece. 
 Any simple sail will answer for such a craft ; that 
 used in a cat-boat serves the purpose as well as 
 any. A boat of this kind, if made strong, would 
 cost little money and would give unbounded pleas- 
 ure to its maker and his friends. 
 
 An ice-boat close-hauled sails nearer to the wind 
 than any water-yacht. With wind abeam, the 
 speed is twice that of the wind itself ; going free 
 it is nearly four times. It is a peculiarity of the 
 ice-boat that the sheets are always flattened aft, 
 whether by the wind or going free, and both main- 
 sail and jib draw. In running free, if dead before 
 the wind, an ice-boat would soon run out of it, and 
 therefore she has to keep her sails at an angle to 
 the wind by running across and with it. In other 
 words she beats to leeward. Thus, with a wind 
 blowing down the river and a boat scudding before 
 it, her sheets would be flat aft, and she would cross 
 from one side to the other alternately, jibing her 
 mainsail over as she did so. To bring an ice-boat 
 to anchor, the jib has to be lowered and the helm 
 " hard up " or " hard down." To stop the boat 
 temporarily you only have to bring 4ier up in the 
 wind without going far enough over to tack. 
 
 SKATING-WINGS. 
 
 Every skater knows how much easier it is to get 
 over the ice with the wind at his back than in his 
 face, and most boys have probably tried the experi- 
 ment when skating before the wind of holding their 
 coats wide open and being driven forward by the 
 breeze without any effort of their own. Some per- 
 haps have even opened an umbrella and allowing 
 the wind to catch it have found themselves pulled 
 
 forward at a most enjoyable rate of speed. Such a 
 motion is almost like flying, and is probably as near 
 an approach to the feeling of a bird in the air as we 
 shall ever experience. 
 
 This making a living ice-boat of oneself has many 
 advantages besides the ease and swiftness of the 
 movement. Ice that is too rough for ordinary 
 skating serves very well for this purpose. A light 
 
SKA TING- WINGS. 
 
 59 
 
 fall of snow is no drawback in this amusement, but 
 father a help ; whereas it often spoils the ice for the 
 skater. Salt-water ice, which is too soft to 
 afford much enjoyment to the cutter of " fig- 
 ares of eight," is plenty hard enough for 
 this form of skate-sailing. There is abso- 
 lutely no serious danger attending the sport, 
 unless indeed it is practised on thin ice, and 
 then the risk of breaking through when 
 swiftly skimming over it is far less than 
 when walking more leisurely and slowly on 
 it. 
 
 Taking advantage of the hint afforded 
 by the open coat and umbrella, various de- 
 vices of sails or wings have been made to 
 be attached to the body of the skater to aid 
 him in sailing without a boat over the ice. 
 One of the simplest of these is the "bat- 
 wing." This is made by cutting out of 
 stout cloth a piece large enough to reach 
 from the crown of the head to tl^e ankles 
 and from the wrists of the outstretched 
 arras to head and ankles. It is attached to 
 the body by bands at the forehead, waist, 
 ankles and wrists. By extending the arms 
 when on the ice the wind acts on the entire 
 surface of the cloth and imparts considera- 
 ble speed to the skater. Folding the arms 
 closes the wings and the effect of the wind 
 is diminished. To spare one the fatigue of 
 his keeping arms continually outstretched, 
 a rod can be carried in the hands and sub- 
 stituted from time to time for the arms. 
 
 Sails of various kinds are also used for 
 this purpose. They are of all sizes and 
 shapes — square, oblong, triangular, etc., 
 sometimes large enough to propel two per- 
 sons, and sometimes intended only for one. 
 Frequently they are made with m.ast and 
 boom, the mast resting in a socket fastened 
 to the waist, as the standard-bearer carries 
 the colors of his regiment. In other cases 
 they are either carried in the hand or strap- 
 ped to the body, as their size or the inclina- 
 tion of their users may determine. There is 
 no end to the variety of styles that may be 
 adopted, and an ingenious boy by using his 
 wits can design many novelties that will 
 both amuse and startle his companions and 
 elders. Under favorable circumstances he 
 can travel with astonishing rapidity over 
 the ice in this way. He can literally out- 
 
 strip the wind and '.lome clairr. 
 eighty or even a hundred miles 
 
 attain a velocity of 
 an hour. 
 
6o 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 TOBOGGANING. 
 
 Like lacrosse, tobogganing originated in Canada, 
 where it is still the prevailing winter amusement. 
 It is really hillside coasting, but on ice instead of 
 on snow and with a peculiarly shaped sleigh, first 
 used by the natives of that country to bring home 
 the spoils of the hunt. The toboggan now used by 
 Canadians consists of two or three slips of birch 
 or bass-wood, about a quarter of an inch thick and 
 
 six or eight feet long, and with one end turned 
 over. There are several cross-bars, and a miniature 
 bulwark runs along each side, the whole frame 
 being strongly bound together by catgut. The 
 remnant of Huron Indians, on their reserve at 
 Lorette, below Quebec, have almost a monopoly of 
 the manufacture of toboggans, and carry on a very 
 profitable trade. 
 
 An ingenious boy, however, can make a very 
 good toboggan with a couple of pieces of quarter- 
 inch pine lumber eight or nine feet long and one foot 
 wide. These boards should be placed side by side 
 and fastened together by strips of wood on the top. 
 It is necessary to make these very secure so that 
 
 they will not become loose when the toboggan is 
 whizzing down a steep hill. Two side-bars should 
 be lashed to the cross-pieces and the front ends of 
 the boards curled over and held back by cords. 
 Unlike sleds and sleighs, toboggans have no run- 
 ners. 
 
 Formerly any hill with a straight road and a good 
 slant would do for the sport. But as the amuse- 
 ment spread and was adopted by a larger number 
 of grown people as a means of entertainment in cold 
 weather, the preparations have become more elab- 
 orate and clubs now have " slides " made for them, 
 often at considerable expense. To construct one 
 it is requisite to select a good hillside, with a straight 
 roadway a quarter of a mile long, and then to build 
 a long, slanting scaffold at the top of the hill, fifty 
 feet to seventy feet from the ground at the upper 
 end of the incline, and with standing room at the 
 top for scores of tobogganers and ladies. The in- 
 clined front of each of these scaffolds is boarded 
 down to the point at which it meets the earth. Its 
 surface is then divided into three, four or five 
 slides by ridges of snow, and these ridges are con- 
 tinued down the hillside. But snow is only used 
 for these ridges, which serve to keep the toboggans 
 apart and to prevent them from running into one 
 another. The slides themselves are coated with 
 ice, made by pouring or sprinkling water between 
 the ridges. The snow on the hillside is also wet and 
 frozen, so that the whole quarter of a mile of hill- 
 side is a sheet of ice. A high ridge of snow 
 separates the slides from the path up the hill, and 
 along this path the men drag their sleds. Once 
 on top of the scaffold, the tobogganer puts his 
 toboggan down upon the fiat platform, with its 
 curved front end just over the edge. When all are 
 ready, the passengers having got firm holds upon 
 the little side-rails at the edges of the slender 
 board, the steerer throws himself forward upon the 
 toboggan, so that he rests on one haunch upon it, 
 with one leg free to steer with. The force of his 
 movement and weight of his body send the frail 
 board flying over the edge of the scaffold and down 
 the steep ice-clad planking. The sensation experi- 
 enced as the sled, with its party, dashes down the 
 steep incline is like falling from the roof of a four- 
 story house. You feel yourself and the strip of 
 birch veneer beneath you loosened from the earth 
 
TOBOGGANING. 
 
 6i 
 
 and flying like a meteor toward the black crowd of either side, and then a comforting bump and grat- 
 spectators far below you at the foot of the hill. ing as the less steep ground is touched. After that 
 The very manner in vjhich the toboggan grazes the the supple board bends beneath its load in obe- 
 
 TOBOGGANING IN EARNEST. 
 
 slide .nakes it less reassuring than if it did not dience to every undulation and slight hummock in 
 touch at all. There is a roar, a blast of intensely its path. The quarter of a mile is frequently made 
 cold wind, a flash of the white walls of snow on in thirty seconds. 
 
62 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 SNOW-SHOEING. 
 
 Besides tobogganing, the Canadians have an- 
 other winter sport that we have to some extent 
 borrowed from them. Snow-shoeing, however, is 
 not confined to Canada and the United States. It 
 has been practised for many years by the Esquimaux 
 and Laplanders, by some tribes in Central Asia, 
 and by some in Norway, where the shoe is called a 
 "ski," and is somewhat differently shaped from the 
 one used in America. 
 
 Snow-shoeing is a cross between sleighing and 
 
 couple of pegs, or a small block, is placed just back 
 of where the heel should rest, a single strap v/ill 
 suffice to make the foot secure. It is necessary 
 always to carry a stick to steer with. 
 
 The regular Amer can snow-shoe, however, is a 
 more elaborate affair. It is generally made out of 
 light ash, say, half an inch or so thick, bent to a 
 long oval, the two ends fastened closely together 
 with catgut. Across the frame, four or five inches 
 from the larger end, a strip of flat wood is fitted. 
 
 SNOW-SHOEING IN NORWAY. 
 
 skating, and yet differs decidedly from both of 
 them. In Canada it was invented by the native 
 Indians to enable them to walk over soft, deep snow 
 without sinking in. The shoe used there is very 
 broad, suggesting perhaps a tennis racket in its 
 general form as much as anything else. The Nor- 
 wegian ski, on the other hand, is intended to aid 
 one in gliding down a hill or mountain-side quickly, 
 and is really a long runner strapped to the foot. A 
 pair of them can readily be made out of two barrel 
 staves by slightly bending up one end of each and 
 attaching straps to fasten them to the feet. If a 
 
 and other pieces are fastened about two feet from 
 the ends in order to strengthen the shoe and give 
 it a greater spring. Catgut is woven across the 
 frame to enable it to rest on the snow without sink- 
 ing in. In the centre of the front cross-bar a hole 
 is left (three to four inches square) for the front of 
 the foot when raising the heel. These shoes vary 
 in length from two to six feet, and in width from 
 ten to twenty inches. For club races ten inches, 
 is the minimum width, without restriction as tO' 
 length. 
 
 Of course, in first using either the Canadian oir 
 
 f 
 
SNOW-SHOEING. 
 
 63 
 
 Norwegian form of shoe, one will find it clumsy 
 work, and his efforts will seem very awkward. But 
 perseverance in this, as in most other things, will 
 conquer the difficulties and soon give one the 
 
 and from school and in fact for almost every pur- 
 pose. They become very expert in travelling in 
 them and frequently jump with them on from a 
 bank even seven or eight feet high. The highest 
 
 SNOW-SHOEING IN CANADA. 
 
 needed dexterity in managing his foot-gear. A few 
 tumbles do no great harm and the fun derived 
 afterwards from the sport will prove the falls to have 
 been a cheap price to pay for the pleasure. Nor- 
 wegian children use their snow-shoes in going to 
 
 jump, however, ever reported was made by a famous 
 runner, known as" Snow-Shoe Thompson," a West- 
 erner of our own country, who is said to have once 
 leaped into a snow-drift from a height of a hundred 
 and eighty feet ! 
 
64 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 HORSEBACK RIDING. 
 
 Riding on horseback is 
 generally allowed to be one 
 of the most cheerful and 
 enlivening of all exercises, 
 whether for youth or man- 
 hood ; and it is hoped that 
 the following brief remarks 
 upon it will prove interest- 
 ing to every boy who has it 
 in his power, or, at least, can 
 contrive, to mount a nag. 
 In mounting, the rider should place himself rath- 
 er before the horse's shoulder, and turn his left side 
 to it; he must hold his whip in his left hand, take 
 hold of the centre of the snafHe reins with his right 
 hand, and pass the middle finger of his left hand 
 through them, from before, keeping the back of that 
 hand toward the horse's head. He should next 
 place his left hand on the animal's neck, about a 
 foot from the saddle ; with his right hand draw the 
 reins through his left and shorten them until he 
 has an equal feeling, with the latter hand, on the 
 horse's neck ; and then with his right hand he 
 should throw the end of the reins to the off-side. 
 With the same hand he must next take a lock of the 
 mane, and twist it round his left thumb, and then 
 close his left hand on the mane and reins. After 
 these movements he takes hold of the left stirrup 
 with his right hand, raises his left foot and puts it 
 in the stirrup, turns his face so as to look across 
 the saddle, places his right hand on the cantle, 
 presses his left knee against the saddle on the girth, 
 and keeps his heels back, so as to prevent his toes 
 touching the horse's side ; he next takes a spring 
 from his right instep, and raises himself in the stir- 
 rup, pressing his knees firmly against the saddle, 
 and keeping his heels together, yet slightly drawn 
 back. In this position the body must be upright, 
 and rather supported by his right hand. From this 
 attitude, he moves his right hand from the cantle 
 to the pommel, passes his right leg over the horse's 
 quarters to the off-side, presses his right knee 
 against the saddle, and his body then comes gently 
 down into it; his right hand, of course, next quits 
 the saddle, and his left, the mane. 
 
 The rider being thus mounted, he should hold his 
 left or bridle hand, the wrist bent outward, opposite 
 ito, and at three inches from his body, and drop his 
 
 right hand by the side of his thigh, place his right 
 foot in the stirrup, unaided by either eye or hand, 
 adjust his clothes, then change the whip from his 
 left hand to his right, and hold it inclining toward 
 the left ear of the horse. The whip should always 
 be carried in the right hand, except when in the 
 act of mounting or dismounting. If a groom at- 
 tends at mounting, he must not be allowed to touch 
 the reins, but merely hold that part of the bridle 
 which comes down the cheek. In dismounting the 
 movements are precisely the same as in mounting, 
 only reversed. 
 
 For a firm, correct seat, the thighs, turned inward, 
 should rest flat upon the sides of the saddle without 
 grasping, as the weight of the rider will give suffi- 
 cient hold without such adventitious aid, which, in 
 fact, only lifts the rider out of his saddle ; the 
 thighs, however, must be kept so firm that they 
 will not roll or move, so as to disturb the horse or 
 loosen the rider's seat ; but if the horse should hes- 
 itate to advance, they may then be slightly relaxed. 
 The knees must be kept back, and stretched down 
 so as to throw the thighs somewhat out of the per- 
 pendicular, but no hold or grip should be taken 
 with them, unless the rider has lost all other means 
 of holding on ; if the thighs are in their proper posi- 
 tion in the saddle, the legs and arms will be turned 
 as they should be — that is, they will be in a line 
 parallel with the rider's body, close to the horse's 
 side, but without touching ; they may, however. 
 
 sometimes give an additional aid to the seat, by a 
 grasp with the calves, and also assist the aids of 
 the hands in like manner ; the toes should be raised 
 and the heels depressed, and kept from galling the 
 
HORSEBACK RIDING. 
 
66 
 
 OUT- DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 horse's side. The body should be held quite erect, 
 and the shoulders kept square and thrown back, 
 the chest advanced, and the small of the back bent 
 rather forward. The upper part of the arms must 
 hang perpendicular from the shoulders, close to the 
 hips, and be kept steady yet without rigidity, else 
 they destroy the hand. The hands should be held 
 with the wrists rounded a little outward, about four 
 or five inches apart, in front of the body, the thumbs 
 and knuckles pointing toward each other, and the 
 finger nails to the body. 
 
 The balance in riding preserves the body from 
 those inclinations or swervings from side to side, 
 which even the ordinary paces of a horse occasion ; 
 it acts and corresponds with every move of the ani- 
 mal, and therefore enables the rider to sit so firmly, 
 that nothing can shift him from his seat. The es- 
 sentials in keeping the balance are for the rider, 
 when his horse is working straight and upright on 
 his legs, to keep his body in an upright position ; 
 when the animal breaks into a trot to incline his 
 body a little back; and in the gallop, leap, or any 
 violent action of the horse, generally to keep his 
 body back. When the horse leans or bends, as he 
 does when turning a corner sharply, or galloping 
 round a circle, the rider must incline his body in 
 the same degree, or else he will lose his balance ; 
 indeed, the art of balancing consists in implicitly 
 yielding the body to every movement of the horse, 
 and to acquire it properly, the practice on circles is 
 extremely useful, working carefully and equally to 
 both sides. The rider should never take the least 
 help from the reins in order to preserve his equilib- 
 rium, for the bridle hand should always be kept 
 fixed, and the reins held at such a length that they 
 may support the horse, but not the rider. 
 
 In trotting, the horse uses two feet at a time — 
 that is, the near fore foot and the off hind foot, 
 and vice versa; thus making only two beats instead 
 of four, as in walking. In the trot there is a lead- 
 ing foot, either the right or left, by which that side 
 is a little more advanced than the other. The 
 leading with either foot is extremely useful ; for if 
 a horse unused to altering is obliged, through fa- 
 tigue or chance, to change the leading leg for that 
 which he is not habituated to, his action will be 
 hard, cramped and irregular. During the trot tht. 
 rider must sit close to the saddle, preserving his 
 seat not by the pressure of his knees, but by a good 
 balance of the body, which must be slightly inclined 
 forward. He should neither stand nor rise in his 
 stirrups, but allow his whole figure to act in unison 
 with the motions of the horse, and in order to 
 
 preserve a proper degree of correspondence he must 
 keep his hands steady and pliant. If the horse 
 trots too fast, the action should be checked by 
 tightening the hold on the reins ; if too slow, he 
 must be animated and encouraged to put his foot 
 out boldly. While giving these animations, the 
 rider must support his fore hand up, and then a 
 touch of the fingers or an animation of the tongue, 
 whip or legs will have its due effect. In road riding 
 — the proper pace for which is the trot — if the horse 
 trots in a disagreeably rough manner, the rider may 
 ease the jolting by rising slightly in his. stirrups ; 
 and the quicker the horse trots the easier it is for 
 the rider, as he is elevated not by his own move- 
 ments, but by the action of the horse. Though this 
 is called rising in the stirrups, they are of no great 
 importance to the rider in holding on ; indeed, no 
 depetidence should be placed in such supports, for 
 many persons who have relied on their footing in 
 the stirrups have been thrown by the horse turning 
 suddenly round or shying. The arms and shoulders 
 must not be jerked up and down through the 
 motion of the body, for great steadiness of hand is 
 required to preserve the due degree of correspond- 
 ence with the horse's mouth; neither should .the 
 legs press his sides, as that would most likely cause 
 him to break into a gallop, which pace he must not 
 be permitted to shift into, as it spoils the beauty of 
 the action to be constantly varying from one pace 
 to the other. 
 
 In the canter, which is the most difficult kind of 
 gallop, the horse's feet are raised from and come to 
 the ground, so as to mark a regular quick, sharp 
 time of one, two, three, four. To urge the horse 
 into a canter, the rider should press him with his 
 legs or animate him with his tongue, and at the 
 same time slightly raise his hand, to incite him to 
 lift his fore legs. However, should he be inclined 
 merely to perform a quicker trot, the hands must 
 be kept firm and the animations increased until he 
 moves at the desired pace. The gallop is an ex- 
 tended canter, and in both actions it is immaterial 
 with which leg the horse leads off, provided the 
 hind leg of the same side follows it. In galloping 
 to the right, the horse should lead with the inward 
 or off fore leg, followed by the off hind leg; and m 
 turning to the left, he must lead with the near fore 
 and hind legs. When performed in this manner 
 the action is termed united ; but if, on the contrary, 
 he leads off with the off fore and near hind legs, 
 and vice versa, he is considered disunited ; and if 
 in o-alloping either to the right or left he leads with 
 both near or off legs, his action is reckoned false 
 
HORSEBACK RIDING. 
 
 67 
 
 If the horse strikes off with the wrong leg, false or 
 disunited, the rider should, by shortening the in- 
 ward rein, and applying his off leg to the horse's 
 side, strive to make him change, and lead with the 
 proper leg. If the animations are not kept up, and 
 the full action is not supported by the hand, the 
 horse will break into a trot ; therefore, the moment 
 the action is felt to be declining, it should be im- 
 mediately restored by the proper animations. The 
 stop in the gallop should be so timed that it may 
 be begun when the horse's fore feet are coming to 
 the ground, which is the beginning of the cadence, 
 and then when the horse brings his hind feet to 
 the exact distance, and so finishes the cadence. It 
 is useless, however, to attempt making a perfect 
 stop, unless the horse is correct in this pace or time 
 of his paces. The double arrest is the stop com- 
 pleted in two cadences of the gallop instead of one, 
 and therefore is not so distressing either to the 
 horse or his rider. At the first cadence, the body 
 should be thrown gently back, so as to check the 
 horse's movement in some measure, but not entire- 
 ly ; and the finish should be in the second cadence, 
 the rider still keeping his body back. 
 
 The movable bar for leaping should not be more 
 than from one to two feet in height at the first, but 
 it may be gradually elevated as the rider perfects 
 himself; however, it should never be very high. 
 The leaps are taken either standing or flying. The 
 former, although practised first, is by far the most 
 difficult to sit ; but by being taken slowly and de- 
 liberately, it affords the rider time and recollection, 
 and the riding-master an opportunity to render 
 assistance in case of mishaps, and to instruct. As 
 its name implies, this leap is taken from a stand- 
 ing position, without any run before it. When the 
 horse is at the bar the animations of the hand and 
 leg will incite him to rise, and as he does so, the 
 rider should, to preserve his perpendicular position, 
 allow his body to come rather forward, keep his 
 back in, and his head firm; as the horse springs 
 forward he should slip his breech under him, so as 
 to let his body go readily back, and keep his legs 
 close and body back until the animal's hind legs 
 have come fully to the ground. The rider must 
 press his legs, from the knee, so closely to the 
 horse's sides, that the action of the body will not 
 
 relax them ; the toes should be raised so as to 
 keep the spurs from galling the horse's sides ; and, 
 if requisite, they may be turned out a little, to 
 strengthen the hold. The position of the hands 
 also must be particularly attended to ; at the first 
 moment of taking the leap, the rider must give the 
 rein to the horse, without reserve ; and as the 
 horse's hind feet come to the ground, collect the 
 reins firmly, resume his position and proceed at a 
 moderate pace. The hands should be kept low, 
 and at the centre of the body ; for if otherwise they 
 confine the horse's head, prevent the rider's body 
 from going easily back, and also throw him for- 
 ward. If the horse is too much collected, in order 
 to incite him to rise, he will bound over the bar ; 
 and if not sufficiently so, he will perhaps not clear 
 it. The animations necessary must be left to the 
 judgment of the rider, as they entirely depend on 
 the temperament of the animal. 
 
 The flying leap is much easier than the standing 
 leap, although the movement is quicker. It may 
 be taken from any pace without previously halting, 
 but a moderate pace is the best, as then the horse 
 rises at a proper time, neither too soon nor too 
 late. From ten to fifteen yards is the proper dis- 
 tance for a horse to trot before he takes the leap ; 
 if he is well trained, he may be allowed to take his 
 own pace to it ; but if he is sluggish, he should be 
 animated with the spur just before his head is 
 turned toward the leap, and pushed into a sort of 
 collected gallop. It is quite useless for the rider, 
 when taking this leap, to bring his body forward as 
 the horse raises his fore legs, because the spring 
 from the hind legs being taken instantly afterward, 
 if the horse checked himself, and refused to take 
 the leap, or did not come fair, he might be thrown 
 over the horse's head through the forward position 
 of his body. The rider should therefore hold on 
 firmly by his legs, and keep his hands down. As 
 the horse springs forward, his body will invariably 
 take the proper movement of leaning back, espe- 
 cially if he, at the moment of the spring, slips his 
 breech under him and brings his waist forward. 
 
 The horse requires, in this leap, little support from 
 the hands until he comes to the ground, when the 
 aid of the hands assists in supporting him, and in 
 bringing the rider's body upright. 
 
68 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 DRIVING. 
 
 <^l. 
 
 ''"J" V "^1 . "T. 
 
 ^''^W^k. 
 
 
 THE YOUNG IDEA. 
 
 Every boy ought to know how to drive. It is 
 not only a great pleasure in itself, it is at times a 
 great necessity as well, and an inability to handle 
 the reins may often prove a decided mortification 
 to the boy when he grows older. It is a more use- 
 ful accomplishment even than riding, as opportuni- 
 ties for exercising the former in this country are 
 much more frequent than for practising the latter. 
 
 A handsome horse, fully equipped in har- 
 ness, attached to a light, well-made carriage, 
 is one of the finest things to look at in the 
 world. Few boys can safely be trusted to 
 drive a pair ; nor have they physical power 
 for the task. If, however, the youthful 
 charioteer can drive a single horse well, he 
 will find no difficulty in controlling a pair, 
 provided their mouths are sufficiently tender 
 for his strength to manage. As to the kind 
 of horse to be selected for boys, it may be 
 either a full-sized harness horse, or a gallo- 
 way, or a pony ; the last two being the best 
 fitted for juvenile driving. 
 
 The harness is always composed of the 
 same parts, which consist of three essential 
 divisions: ist, the driving, or guiding 
 part ; 2d, the drawing part ; and 3d, that 
 
 for holding up the shafts. The driving part 
 comprises the bridle and reins. The bridle is 
 made up of a front-piece, a head-piece, two cheek- 
 pieces and winkers (or blinders), a nose-band 
 and a throat-lash. The cheek-pieces are buckled 
 to the bit by means of leather loops, called billets, 
 as also are the driving-reins, and the bearing- rein 
 (or check-rein), which is attached to a separate bit 
 called the bridoon (a plain snaffle), and then is 
 hooked to the pad-hook. This is now generally 
 dispensed with, but for young drivers it is often de- 
 sirable when they have not strength to check the 
 fall of a horse. The drawing part consist of a 
 padded oval ring fitted to the shoulders, and called 
 the collar, sometimes replaced by a padded strap 
 across the chest called the breast-strap. On the 
 collar are fastened two iron bars called hames, by 
 means of a strap at the top and bottom, and these 
 hames have a ring in the upper part for the reins to 
 pass through, called the hame terret ; and nearer 
 the lower part, a strong arm of iron covered with a 
 coating of brass, silver, or leather, which receives 
 in its eye the tug of the trace. The trace is a long 
 and strong strap of double leather, stitched, which 
 runs from the collar to the drawing-bar, and may 
 be lengthened or shortened by a buckle. The part 
 for holding the gig up consists of a pad or saddle. 
 
 THE START. 
 
DRIVING. 
 
70 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ■^-"t-^; 
 
 i Jf 
 
 ' 'T//, 4v// -^ X - 
 
 CHARMING AND SPEEDY TRAVELLING. 
 
 which is buckled on to the horse by the belly-band, 
 and from which the shaft is suspended by the back- 
 band and shaft-tug. It is prevented from slipping 
 forward by the crupper, which is slipped over the 
 tail. Besides these parts, some horses have in ad- 
 dition a breechen, which holds the shafts back in 
 going down hill ; and when they are addicted to 
 kicking, a strap is buckled over their hips to the 
 shaft which is called a kicking-strap. 
 
 Before driving, it is necessary that the horse or 
 pony should be " put to," which is effected as fol- 
 lows : 1st, slip the shafts through the tugs, or, if 
 there are hooks, drop them down into them ; zd, 
 put the traces on to the drawing-bar, either hooking 
 them on, or else slipping them on to the eyes, and 
 being careful to place the leather stops in these, to 
 prevent the trace coming off ; 3d, buckle the belly- 
 band sufficiently tight ; and 4th, buckle the kicking- 
 strap, or breechen, if either is used. After this, the 
 reins are taken from the terrets, where th^y were 
 previously placed, and the horse is ready. 
 
 In driving, the reins are held differently from the 
 mode already described as used in riding, the fore- 
 finger being first placed between them, and then 
 both the reins are grasped by all the other fingers, 
 and the near-side rein is also held firmly against the 
 fore-finger by means of the thumb. In this way, on 
 
 an emergency, the near or left rein may be pulled 
 by itself, by holding it firmly with the thumb, and 
 suffering the other, or off rein, to slip through the 
 fingers, or vzce versa. The most usual way is to 
 pull the left rein with the left hand, and the right 
 with the right hand, by hooking one or two fingers 
 over it while held firmly in the left. In this man- 
 ner, with the whip also held in the right hand, the 
 horse is guided or stopped. The young driver 
 should take care and keep his feet well before him, 
 with his knees as straight and firm as possible, so 
 that in case of a fall of the horse he may not be 
 thrown forward out of the vehicle he is driving. 
 He should also sit square to his work, with his 
 elbow held easily to his side, and his left thumb 
 pointing to his horse's head, by which, as in riding, 
 his elbow is pretty sure to be properly placed. The 
 bit should not be too firmly pulled against, but a 
 light and " give and take " kind of handling is the 
 
 ^^KKnvr*r9^j*f9-*-i 
 
 
 » \ 
 
 /.. 
 
 — — S — ^..Juu 
 
 SLEIGHING. 
 
 best, by which the horse is allowed freedom of 
 action, and yet is checked if he makes a mistake. 
 In meeting other vehicles, the rule in this country 
 is to keep to the right, and in passing them, to 
 leave them also on the right. This should be rig- 
 idly adhered to for fear of the accidents which 
 would otherwise constantly happen. In England 
 the custom is reversed and drivers must always keep 
 to the left. 
 
BICVCLING. 
 
 n 
 
 BICYCLING. 
 
 The modern bicycle and tricycle are direct de- 
 scendants of the velocipede, a toy invented fifty 
 years or more ago for tiie amusement of younger 
 
 children. It was a 
 low three-wheeled 
 affair, the seat set 
 a little forward of 
 (and over) the two 
 rear wheels and was 
 propelled by two up- 
 right sticks (worked 
 forwards and back- 
 wards by the hands) 
 attached to these 
 rear wheels. The 
 steering was done 
 by the feet on the 
 front guiding wheel. 
 Though the ma- 
 chine seems clumsy 
 compared with its 
 present successors 
 
 it afforded unbounded pleasure to the children of 
 its generation and was considered by them an im- 
 mense advance upon its predecessor, the rocking- 
 horse. 
 
 The bicycles and tricycles seen all over the 
 country to-day offer a marked contrast to the 
 ancient velocipede in their greater strength, grace, 
 lightness and speed. They are propelled by the 
 feet and steered by the hands, thus reversing the 
 older method. The tricycle, of course, is safer for 
 very young children to ride on than the bicycle, as 
 there is naturally less danger of a fall from a three- 
 wheeled machine than from a two-wheeled one — 
 the latter having to be balanced carefully and only 
 staying upright when in motion, whereas the 
 former balances itself when standing still as well 
 as when moving. The actual danger from a bi- 
 cycle, however, is apt to be very much overesti- 
 mated. A little practice will give any one skill 
 enough to avoid falls if reasonable care be shown, 
 and even if falls do occur they rarely result in any- 
 thing worse than a hard knock or a bruise which a 
 few hours will readily heal. 
 
 Until quite recently nearly all the modern bi- 
 cycles were constructed on the general plan of 
 one high wheel and one very small one. The lat- 
 ter more commonly was placed behind the former 
 and served the purpose of a balance-wheel to steady 
 the rider. The seat or saddle was placed directly 
 over the centre of the larger wheel, which was the 
 driving-wheel, worked by pedals attached to its 
 hub. But in some makes the smaller wheel led 
 and in that case served as steering wheel as well as 
 balance, the steering apparatus in all 
 bicycles forming a part of the forward 
 wheel. The size of the large wheels 
 in any of these styles varies in diame- 
 ter from forty to sixty inches according 
 to the height and weight of the owner. 
 A step was fastened to the rod which 
 connected the saddle with the small 
 wheel as an aid in mounting and dis- 
 mounting. 
 
 Though these styles of bicycles are 
 
 'perhaps still the ones most generally 
 
 used, another make, quite differently 
 
 constructed, has been rising in popular 
 
 favor of late, and the indications are 
 
 MB 
 
7s 
 
 OUT- DOOR SP0R7S FOR BOYS. 
 
 that it u-ill soon equally divide the patronage of 
 wheelmen even if it does not entirely supersede 
 the others. It is known as "the safety" and its 
 peculiarity consists in having both wheels of ap- 
 proximately the same size. They are much smaller 
 than the large wheel in the other makes, averaging 
 
 ON THE ROAD. 
 
 about thirty inches only. The seat of the rider is 
 between the wheels, though nearer the back one, 
 and from its being so much lower as well as from 
 the equalization in the size of the wheels the risk 
 of a fall is reduced to a minimum. It is claimed 
 for this machine that it rides as easily as any other 
 
 kind and that fully as great speed can be obtained 
 with the same expenditure of force, an attachment 
 of cog-wheels compensating for its reduced size. 
 
 " Safetys " are used by girls and women as well 
 as by boys and men, being in fact the only form of 
 bicycle that they can well ride. The seat in girls' 
 safeties is usually placed lower than in those in- 
 tended for boys and men, but it is frequently made 
 saddle-fashion for them to stride. Such machines 
 can be ridden by them in long skirts with perfect 
 propriety and ease and they make a very graceful 
 and attractive sight. 
 
 Tandems have two seats placed one behind the 
 other, each with its own pedals so that both riders 
 can work the machine together. Cog-wheels give 
 uniformity of motion and enable the two to aid each 
 other more effectually than they otherwise would. 
 Tandems are intended especially for men and women 
 to ride together and are particularly serviceable for 
 extended tours lasting several days, trips which 
 ardent wheelmen are fond of making and which in 
 pleasant weather furnish great enjoyment. 
 
 In learning how to manage and ride a bicycle, a 
 few lessons from a master of the art are better than 
 any number of printed pages. But in the absence 
 of any means of obtaining such practical instruction 
 a few hints here may be of assistance. 
 
 Before one can ride he must learn to mount, and 
 mounting is really the most difficult part of the 
 task, for when that is once thoroughly mastered the 
 greatest obstacle is removed and the battle is more 
 than half won. In the first place have confidence 
 in yourself. Do not fear falling, and do not think 
 of falling, and the chances are that you will not fall. 
 But if you should, pick yourself up and try again. 
 A tumble in starting a machine is a trifle, and will 
 not hurt you. Resolve that it shall not happen 
 again and it probably will not. > 
 
 Familiarize yourself with the bicycle by walking 
 with it a few times around the room or over the 
 road or wherever you are learning its management. 
 Study it carefully, noting just how each part works 
 and what it is intended to do. Then when you feel 
 that you understand it thoroughly get on it as fol- 
 lows : taking hold of the handle, run forward three 
 or four steps with the machine, keeping on its right 
 side ; then place your left foot on the step and, bal- 
 ancing yourself well, throw the right foot over the 
 wheel and, at the same time, lift yourself into the 
 seat and place your feet on the pedals, grasp the 
 handle and you are mounted and already riding. 
 All of this has to be done very quickly and while 
 the motion you imparted to it by running a few 
 
BICYCLING. 
 
 73 
 
 steps still lasts ; for the instant a bicycle stops it 
 falls. It can only be kept upright by moving. But 
 there is time enough to do it in if one does not lag. 
 
 ing, a friendly wall at the right is serviceable in sav- 
 ing falls. Once on the machine the pedals must be 
 kept going in order to preserve that uprightness of 
 
 11 irl 
 
 RESTING-PLACE. 
 
 Whether or not this sounds easy, it is not so easy 
 to accomplish it successfully the first time it is tried. 
 A few efforts, however, will overcome the difficulties 
 and make it seem a very simple affair. In practis- 
 
 beanng which is mor^ essential to wheelmen than 
 to any other class of .nankind. If, after you are on 
 the bicycle, you feel yourself falling, turn the wheel 
 in the direction of the threatened tumble, and if it 
 
74 
 
 OUT- DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 does not check the toppling over, go down with the 
 machine ; that is, on the same side as it inclines. 
 By disengaging the leg nearest the ground, and ex- 
 tending it, you will in all probability come down 
 gently on that foot ; then disengage the other. To 
 dismount, you must let the machine slow up and 
 then as the left pedal is on the " long throw " 
 (furthest down), step on it, throwing the right leg 
 over the backbone,"and you are off. 
 
 Any fair, hard even surface is suitable to ride on. 
 In the large cities asphalt or macadamized pave- 
 ments are the best ; in towns and rural districts a 
 good country road will answer very well. Irregular 
 surfaces are to be avoided as the jolts they occasion 
 are apt to destroy the balance and so send rider and 
 horse down. The balance is, of course, the great 
 thing to be preserved. That is easily done, after a 
 few trials, on ordinary occasions, but it is almost 
 impossible to do so when either wheel strikes a small 
 stone or other impediment in the road. When 
 
 such an obstruction is encountered unexpectedly, 
 and the rider is off his guard, it may send him off 
 his wheel head foremost, the worst and most dan- 
 gerous fall he can have. But if he has his eyes on 
 the road, and sees his danger in time, he can, even 
 if unable to avoid it, throw himself over sideways, 
 and by extending his. leg and landing on his foot 
 prevent any very serious mishap. 
 
 Bicycling is so healthful and fine a pastime, and 
 has become so favorite a recreation, that hundreds 
 of clubs of wheelmen have been formed all over the 
 country. They have their own rules, conventions, 
 parades, tours and journals. So proficient have 
 some become and so emulous are many of excelling 
 one another that they have gradually raised the rec- 
 ord until it now (1890) stands at two hundred and 
 ten miles for a run of eighteen hours out of the 
 twenty-four — an achievement of which they may 
 well be proud, and which would have been regarded 
 as impossible a dozen years ago. 
 
 /lywkeiliirr! 
 ound ar|d.rour[f% 
 
 t^ioilt a aoiJi|d- 
 
TRICYCLING. 
 
76 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 SWIMMING. 
 
 Swimming is the most aseful of all athletic ac- 
 complishments, as by It human life is frequently 
 saved which might have been sacrificed. It is also 
 useful in the development of muscular strength, as 
 well as highly beneficial to the nervous system. 
 The art of swimming is by no means difficult of at- 
 tainment, and many writers have supplied directions 
 to facilitate its acquisition. Above all things, self- 
 confidence (not rashness leading into danger) is re- 
 quired ; for when this is possessed, all difficulty 
 soon ceases. Dr. Franklin, himself an expert swim- 
 mer, recommends that at first a familiarity with the 
 buoyant power of water should be gained ; and to 
 acquire this, he directs the learner, after advancing 
 into the water breast high, to turn round, so as to 
 bring his face to the shore ; he is then to let a white 
 stone fall in the water, which will be seen at the 
 bottom. His object must now be, by diving down 
 with his eyes open, to reach and bring up the stone. 
 He will easily perceive that there is no danger in this 
 experiment, as the water gets shallower, of course, 
 towards the shore, and because, whenever he likes, 
 by depressing his feet, he can raise his head again 
 above water. 
 
 The beginner, in this initial experiment — for it is 
 the very first lesson in swimming — will be forcibly 
 struck by the difficulty he experiences in his attempt 
 to get at the stone under water, in consequence of 
 the resistance the water itself offers to his progress. 
 He realizes at once, by actual experiment, that his 
 body will not so readily sink as he imagined ; and 
 this important fact inspires him at once with a de- 
 gree of confidence at the very outset which is of it- 
 self half the battle. He becomes aware of the great 
 sustaining power of water, and learns how buoyant, 
 his body can become in the water by a slight exei- 
 tion of muscular force. Having thus learned this 
 truth practically, and also- the great importance of 
 always keeping his lungs well expanded with air, he 
 will soon attain a practical knowledge of the other 
 branches of the art. 
 
 Should a person accidentall}' fall into the water, 
 provided he retained his presence of mind, a knowl- 
 edge of the above facts would save him probably 
 from a " watery grave," even if he did not know how 
 to swim. The body being but very slightly heavier 
 than the volume of water it displaces, will, with a 
 vetY slight motion of the hands under water, float. 
 
 When the chest is thoroughly inflated with air, it is 
 lighter than water, and floats naturally, having half 
 the head above water ; so that the person exposed 
 to danger has only to turn upon his back, in order 
 that that half consisting of his face, with the mouth 
 and nostrils, be above the water line. But to float 
 thus upon the water, the greatest care must be taken 
 not to elevate the arms or other parts above its sur- 
 face ; and it is in remembering this caution that 
 presence of mind in the time of danger confers so 
 much benefit ; for in the moment of terror a person, 
 thrown into the water, almost instinctively stretches 
 out his hands aloft to grasp at some object, thereby 
 depriving himself of the very means which would 
 frequently keep him afloat until succor arrived. 
 By elevating any part of the body in this way, we 
 remove it from the support afforded by the water, 
 and thus render sinking inevitable. 
 
 So much for floating. Now for swimming. 
 
 In the first place, never enter thewater within an 
 hour of eating a meal, either before or after, especi- 
 ally after. If you go into the water with a hungry 
 stomach you withdraw from the digestive functior" 
 valuable heat necessary to digest food ; while if you 
 go in too soon after a full meal, digestion is im- 
 peded, and still more serious results are likely to 
 follow. Never enter the water when you feel cold 
 or chilly, as you need all the heat of your system to 
 produce the reaction from your first dip m the 
 water. 
 
 It is a very mistaken notion to enter cold water 
 after a " cooling off " process. It is even worse than 
 going in overheated. A man can jump into cold 
 water while in a perspiration and experience no ill 
 effects from it, provided he comes out of the water 
 before a reaction is prevented. But to enter the 
 water while he is cold, and lacks the natural heat to 
 produce the reaction so essential to health in bath- 
 ing, is to lose all benefit from the bath. 
 
 The best aid a learner can have is that of an ex- 
 perienced friend who can direct and criticise his 
 efforts and lend assistance should it be necessarj^, 
 but if no such friend is at hand let him advance 
 gradually up to his arm-pits in the water, and then, 
 turning about, strike slowly out towards the shore, 
 taking care to keep his legs well up from the bottom- 
 Rigid perseverance in this course will, in a very 
 short time, enable him to feel himself afloat, and 
 
78 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 moving at "all fours " — a delight equal to that ex- 
 perienced by the child who first feels that he can 
 walk from chair to chair. 
 
 In striking olif, the learner, having turned himself 
 
 to the shore, as before recommended, should fall 
 towards the water gently, keeping his head and neck 
 perfectly upright, his breast advancing forward, his 
 chest inflated ; then, withdrawing the legs from the 
 bottom, and stretching them out, strike the arms 
 forward in unison with the legs. The back can 
 scarcely be too much hollowed, or the head too much 
 thrown back, as those who do otherwise will swim 
 with their feet too near the surface, instead of allow- 
 ing them to be about a foot-and-half deep in the 
 water. The hands should be placed just in front of 
 the breast, the fingers pointing forward and kept 
 close together, with the thumbs to the edge of the 
 fore-fingers ; the hands must be made rather con- 
 cave on the inside, though not so much as to dimin- 
 ish the size. I n the stroke of the hands, they should 
 be carried forward to the utmost extent, taking care 
 that they do not touch the surface of the water; 
 they should next be swept to the side, at a distance 
 from, but as low as, the hips ; and should then be 
 drawn up again, by bringing the arms towards the 
 side, bending the elbows upwards and the wrists 
 downwards, so as to let the hands hang down while 
 the arms are raising them to the first attitude. 
 
 The legs, which should be moved alternately with 
 the hands, must be drawn up with the knees inwards, 
 and the soles of the feet inclined outwards ; and 
 they should then be thrown backwards, as widely 
 apart from each other as possible. These motions 
 of the hands and legs may be practised out of the 
 water ; and whilst exercising the legs, which can 
 only be done one at a time, the learner may rest one 
 hanQ on the back of a chair to steady himself, while 
 he moves the opposite leg. When in the water, the 
 
 learner must take care to draw in his breath at the 
 instant that his hands, descending to his hips, cause 
 his head to rise above the surface of the water ; 
 and he should exhale his breath at the moment his 
 body is propelled forward through the action of the 
 legs. If he does not attend precisely to these rules, 
 he will invariably have a downward motion, and, 
 as the boys say, swim furthest where it is deepest. 
 
 When under the water, the swimmer may either 
 move in the usual way, or keep his hands stretched 
 before him, which will enable him to cut the water 
 more easily, and greatly relieve his chest. If he ob- 
 serves that he approaches too near the surface of 
 the water, he must press the palms of his hands up- 
 wards. If he wishes to dive to the bottom, he must 
 turn the palms of his hands upwards, striking with 
 them repeatedly and rapidly whilst the feet are re- 
 posing ; and when he has obtained a perpendicular 
 position, he should stretch out his hands like feelers, 
 and make the usual movement with his feet, then he 
 will descend with great rapidity to the bottom. It 
 is well to accustom the eyes to open themselves 
 under the water, at least in those beds of water that 
 admit the light, as it will enable the swimmer to 
 ascertain the depth of water he is in. 
 
 To swim on the side, the body should be turned 
 either on the left or right side, while the feet per- 
 form their usual motions. The arm from unti^er the. 
 shoulder stretches itself out quickly, at the same 
 time that the feet are striking. The other arm 
 strikes at the same time with the impelling of the 
 feet. The hand of the latter arm begins its stroke 
 on a level with the head. While the hand is again 
 brought forward m a flat position, and the feet are 
 
 contracted, the stretched-out hand is, while work- 
 ing, drawn back towards the breast, but not so much 
 impelling as sustaining. As swimming on the side 
 presents to the water a smaller surface than on the 
 
SWIMMING. 
 
 79 
 
 waist, when rapidity is required, the former is often 
 preferable to the latter. 
 
 Treading water is a sort of perpendicular swim- 
 ming and can be done in two ways. In the first 
 the hands are compressed against the hips and the 
 feet describe their usual circle. The other mode 
 consists in not contracting both legs at the same 
 time, but one after the other, so that while the one 
 remains contracted the other describes a circle. In 
 this mode, however, the legs must not be stretched 
 out, but the thighs are placed in a distended posi- 
 tion and curved as if in a half-sitting position. 
 
 To swim dog-fashion each hand and foot should 
 be alternately used. The hands, one after the other, 
 are drawn towards the chin in a compressed form, 
 and then expanded and slightly hollowed, with 
 fingers close, and as they strike the water the feet 
 are likewise drawn towards the belly and struck 
 backwards with a kind of kick. 
 
 In swimming on the back one should turn over 
 in the water by the combined motion of the arm 
 and leg, and then extend his body, his head being in 
 a line with it, so that the back and upper part of 
 the head may be immersed, while the face and breast 
 are out of the water. The hands should be placed 
 on the thighs straight down, and the legs moved as 
 in forward swimming, taking care that the knees 
 do not rise above the surface in striking them out. 
 Sometimes the hands are used after the motion of 
 a wing or fan, by which a slight progression is also 
 made at the same time that the surface of the body 
 is well lifted out of the water. 
 
 To swim on the back without employing the feet, 
 the body is placed in a horizontal position, the feet 
 are stretched out stifHy, and the heels and toes are 
 kept in contact ; then the body is to be somewhat 
 
 curved at the seat, the hands are to be stretched 
 flatly forward over the body, and slowly striking in 
 small circles, the loins are somewhat drawn up at 
 each stroke. This will move the body in the direc- 
 tion of the feet. To go in an opposite direction, 
 the body is placed horizontally, but somewhat curved 
 in the seat, the head in its natural position, the 
 arms are kept close to the body, with the elbows 
 inclined inwards, and the hands describe small 
 circles from the back to the front, at about a foot 
 and a half from the hips. These modes serve 
 to exercise and strengthen the arms in an extraor- 
 dinary degree without in the least fatiguing the 
 breast. 
 
 In the thrust the swimmer lies horizontally upon 
 his waist, and makes the common motions in swim- 
 ming. He then simply stretches one arm forwards, 
 as in swimming on the side, but remains lying upon 
 the waist, and in a widely described circle, he car- 
 ries the other hand, which is working under the 
 breast, towards the hip. As soon as the arm has 
 completed this motion, it is lifted from the water in 
 a stretched position, and thrown forward in the 
 greatest horizontal level, and is then sunk with the 
 hand flat into the water ; while the swimmer thus 
 stretches forth the arm, he, with the other hand 
 , stretched as wide as possible, describes a small 
 circle in order to sustain the body; after this he 
 brings his hand in a largely described circle rapidly 
 to the hip, lifts the arm out of the water, and thrusts 
 it forward. During the describing of the larger 
 circle the feet make their movements. To make 
 the thrust beautifully, a considerable degree of 
 practice is required. This mode of swimming is 
 useful where a great degree of rapidity is required 
 for a short distance. 
 
8r 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ROWING. 
 
 It may be safely assumed that every boy who 
 takes to rowing or sailing for amusement wishes to 
 go fast ; now, every fast boat is more or less liable 
 to be upset, even with the best and most skilful 
 management ; and when a boat is upset, he who 
 ■can swim laughs at the adventure ; he who cannot 
 -swim is not only himself in danger, but endangers 
 others, who feel obliged to risk their own lives in 
 ■order to save his. Therefore, let every one learn to 
 swim before he attempts either to row or sail in a 
 fast boat ; he will then be able to enjoy the amuse- 
 ment, and his friends on shore will feel at ease, and 
 not wish to deter him. Having acquired this art, 
 lie may safely proceed in learning to row and with 
 it to learn the general management of a ^owing- 
 l)oat. Boys at school and men at college can often 
 row very well without being watermen — ^that is t& 
 say, without understanding how the boat, the oars, 
 the rudder, etc., ought to be fitted, or how to steer 
 or manage a boat in difficulties, or how to rowex- 
 cept in a boat and with an oar fitted exactly as it 
 
 w^wr 
 
 ought to be ; but let the beginner not follow this 
 example — let him determine to learn how to detect 
 and correct any fault in the fittings of a boat, and 
 how to row under difficulties. Of course any one 
 can row better in a properly-fitted boat than in one 
 that is not so ; but grumbling at the boat and fit- 
 tings is the sign of a greenhorn ; a good waterman 
 should be able to row anywhere and anyhow, and 
 at the same time should know how to make the 
 best of a good boat and oars when he has got them. 
 These arts are only to be acquired by rowing in all 
 sorts of boats, by listening to what experienced 
 oarsmen have to say on the subject, by always 
 looking out to pick up something new and to learn 
 something every day. And first let the beginner 
 
 PAIR-OAR. 
 
 FOUR-OAR. 
 
 learn the names and use of every part of a boat and 
 of its fittings. 
 
 It should be borne in mind that in order to be- 
 come a " first-rate oar " in the light crank boats now 
 used for racing purposes, early hours, moderate 
 diet, regular and vigorous exercise are imperative 
 requirements, and success is only attainable by great 
 perseverance, toil and self-denial. A terrible strain 
 upon the muscular system is inseparable from a 
 closely contested boat-race, and there is no hope of 
 success except as a result of special training for the 
 task. There is one special compensating result for 
 the arduous character of the work, however, and 
 that is that the prepa!ratury process is a sure pres- 
 ervation from the dissipation incident to youth, for 
 excellence in rowing is utterly incompatible with 
 any form of vicious indulgence. 
 
LITTLE ROWERS ON THE RIVER. 
 
82 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 
 ♦ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 ^H 
 
 n 
 
 ^^^4^^^^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 - -^ '^^^^^_:ilIIaBu^^^fe 
 
 PRACIISING STROKE (l). 
 
 Rowing-boats consist of the bows; the stem, or 
 entrance ; the stern, where are the rudder and the 
 lines for steering ; the rowlocks, for giving purchase 
 to the oars ; and the thwarts, or seats. At the bot- 
 tom are the foot-boards, which are easily removed 
 in order to bail out any water which may leak into 
 the boat. Besides these parts there is a board 
 placed across the boat for the feet of the rower, 
 called a stretcher. The whole boat is composed of 
 one or more planks, called streaks, nailed upon a 
 light oak framework, called the timbers, or ribs; 
 and the upper streak, upon which the rowlocks are 
 placed, is called the wale-streak. Boats with two 
 rowlocks opposite each other are called sculling 
 
 boats, and are propelled by a pair of light oars 
 called sculls, the art being called "sculling." 
 When a boat is fitted with a pair of rowlocks not 
 opposite each other, it is called a pair-oared boat. 
 If with two in the middle opposite each' other, and 
 two others, one before and the other behind, but 
 not opposite each other, it is called a randan. 
 When a boat has four rowlocks, none of which are 
 opposite one another, it is called a four-oared boat, 
 and so on up to ten oars, which is the utmost limit 
 in common use for any kind of boat but the pleas- 
 ure barge, which sometimes has twenty-four oars, 
 as in the city barges of London. The rowlock 
 
 nearest the bow is called the bow rowlock, or No. i; 
 the next No. 2, and so on ; and the oars used in 
 them receive the same number, the one nearest the 
 stern being called the " stroke oar." The rowlocks 
 in river and sea boats are somewhat different in 
 shape, though identical in principle, both consist- 
 ing of a square space of about the breadth of a 
 man's hand, and both lying on the wale-streak ; but 
 in river boats they are generally bounded before and 
 behind by a flat piece of oak or ash called, respec- 
 tively, the thowl-pin and stopper; while in sea 
 boats they are merely common round wooden pins 
 dropped into holes made in the wale-streak, but 
 
 still receiving the same names. The thowl-pin is 
 for the purpose of pulling the oar against, while 
 the stopper prevents the oar from slipping forward 
 when the rower is pushing it in that direction after 
 the stroke. When the rower rows with an oar in 
 each hand, the oars are called sculls, and are 
 shorter; when he uses only one oar, it is called an 
 oar, and is about thirteen feet five inches long. 
 
 The rower should, as far as possible, take some 
 good oarsman for his model, and endeavor to imi- 
 tate him in every respect, which is the only mode 
 of acquiring a good style. Description is useful in 
 putting the learner in the way of acquiring what is 
 to be taught, but it is not all-sufficient for the pur- 
 
ROWING. 
 
 83 
 
 pose. In the first place, the learner should place 
 himself square on the seat, with his feet straight 
 before him, and the toes slightly turned out. The 
 knees may either be kept together or separated 
 considerably, the latter being the better mode, as it 
 allows the body to come more forward over the 
 knees. The feet are to be placed firmly against the 
 stretcher, which is to be let out or shortened, to 
 suit the length of the individual ; and one foot may 
 be placed in the strap which is generally attached 
 to the stretcher in modern boats. The oar is then 
 taken in hand, raising it by the handle, and then 
 either at once placing it in the rowlock, or else first 
 dropping the blade flat on the water, and then rais- 
 ing the handle it may gently be lowered to its 
 place. The hands should both grasp the oar tight- 
 ly, the thumbs being underneath the handle of the 
 
 -i-a 
 
 A SPILL. 
 
 are extended, the knuckles will be uppermost. Put 
 the oar into the water ivhe7t yoti have stretched 
 forward as far as you can, and do this without 
 splashing. Let the blade dip " crisply " and easily 
 into the water. Then throw your shoulders back 
 and pull the hands home close to the body just 
 
 A SCRATCH EIGHT ("PEAL OF BELLS "). 
 
 oar, not above it. Sit straight and upright, not 
 lolling over the seat either forward or backward. 
 When leaning forward to the stroke, separate the 
 knees a little, and keep the arms straight, and do 
 not move your hands at all, so that, when the arms 
 
 
 
 FEATHER "UISDER" THE WATER. 
 
 below the waist, elbows close to the sides. By 
 keeping your hands tightly on the oar and pulling 
 back, you will find the knuckles will naturally come 
 down and the finger-tips up. Then by dropping 
 the wrist neatly you will feather the oar (slip the 
 blade out of the water edge upwards) without all 
 that excessive wrist action which is so wearisome 
 to a novice. Mind you pull hard from start to 
 finish, and if you can continue the pull with the 
 outside hand close to the side, you will get a longer 
 stroke. Bring the oar out of the water smoothly 
 and "cleanly," but do not jerk it up, or pull in 
 " fits and starts." All rowing should be done 
 regularly, in " time," and no good oarsman will pull 
 himself back with his head in the air. Pull as far 
 back as you can effectively ; but if you go too far, 
 you lose " time," and the boat will roll from side to 
 side as you resume your " pull." Rowing is done 
 from the waist ; the seat and legs should be firm as 
 possible, else the boat will roll. 
 
84 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 In " backing water " the reverse of these actions 
 takes place. The oar is first reversed in the row- 
 lock and then it is pushed through the water with 
 as much power as is needed a.nA picHedthrough. the 
 air. When the oars on one side are pulled and 
 those on the other are backed, the boat is made to 
 turn on its own water. " Holding water " is effected 
 by the oars being held in the position of backing 
 without rnoving them. 
 
 The essential points in rowing are: ist, To 
 straighten the arms before bending the body for- 
 ward ; 2d, to drop the oar cleanly into the water : 
 
 them, and called backing w^ter, when the boat re- 
 cedes ; or by pulling one side only, on which the 
 boat describes a segment of a circle, which is made 
 smaller by pulling one oar, and backing the other. 
 By means of a rudder the boat is made to take a 
 certain course, independent of the rowers, called 
 " steering," the chief art in which consists in keep- 
 ing the rudder as still as possible, by holding the 
 lines " taut," and avoiding pulling them from one 
 side to the other more than is absolutely necessary. 
 It is not a difficult matter to steer, but there are 
 a few instructions to be attended to. First, the po- 
 
 AN AMERICAN RACE. 
 
 3d, to draw it straight through at the same depth ; 
 4th, to feather neatly, and without bringing the 
 oar out before doing so ; 5th, to use the back and 
 shoulders freely, keeping the arms' as straight as 
 possible ; and 6th, to keep the eyes fixed upon 
 the rower before them, avoiding looking out of the 
 boat, by which means the body is almost sure to 
 swing backward and forward in a straight line. 
 
 Every boat without a rudder is manoeuvred in the 
 water, either by pulling both sides alike, in which 
 case it progresses in a straight line, or by revers- 
 ing the action of the oars, equally on both sides, 
 pushing them through the water instead of pulling 
 
 sition of the coxswain should be easy with legs 
 crossed at the ankles so as to separate the knees. 
 Grasp the lines firmly so that you can "feel" the 
 tiller ; a turn of the line round the hands will give 
 the necessary hold. (It is a good plan to fasten the 
 lines round you in front.) Lean forward a trifle 
 as the boat is pulled. The right-hand line will 
 steer to the right, and left to the left, but in all 
 cases steer "small." Do not by a long pull at 
 the lines turn the boat far to either side. Look well 
 ahead and give room for the oars or sculls near a 
 bank. In going up stream keep out of the current 
 under the bank, and keep inside descending boats. 
 
ROWING. 
 
 85. 
 
 permitting' towing and following boats to go inside 
 of you. In descending keep the centre of the river 
 where the stream is usually strongest. The great- 
 est pull should be on your " lines " when the oars 
 are out of the water ; such a course will lighten the 
 rowers' labor. Due allowance should be made for 
 the breeze by keeping the boat's head out, and put 
 the boat's head up to the " wash " when a steamer 
 has passed. 
 
 When a crew are steered by a competent cox- 
 
 over the boat, being able to cause her to be rowed 
 slowly or quickly, or to be stopped, backed or 
 turned on her own centre. 
 
 It is very essential that a boy should be able to 
 scull neatly, and this is only done by practice. The 
 first thing is to pull so that your sculls shall not 
 "jam " your fingers together, and this can be obvi- 
 ated by the beginner by pulling one hand a trifle 
 behind the other, till, when you lean back, you 
 naturally separate the hands ; or, better still, shift 
 
 A GENERAL VIEW OF THE HENLEY REGATTA, LONDON. 
 
 swain, they ought to be perfectly obedient to his 
 commands, rowing exactly as he tells them. His 
 orders are communicated by the following words, 
 viz.: when desiring his crew to row he says, "Pull 
 all ; " or if wishing any one oar to be pulled, he says, 
 " Pull bow," or " Pull, No. 3," or 4, etc., as the case 
 may be. If they are to stop rowing he says, " Easy 
 all," or for any one oar, " Easy bow," or No. 2. The 
 same kind of order is conveyed when " backing " or 
 " holding water " is desired ; the only variation, as 
 before, being between confining his order to any 
 one or more oars, or extending it to all. In this 
 way all the evolutions practicable on the water are 
 managed, and the coxswain has complete control 
 
 the body an inch or two to either side, and the 
 hands will clear each other. In beginning the pull, 
 lean well forward, dip both sculls at once and to the 
 same depth', and not too deep, in the water. The 
 only difficulty is in the meeting of the hands, and 
 this got over, as explained, the sculler will pull his 
 elbows to his hips and his hands just below the 
 chest. Feather by slightly lowering the wrists (if 
 necessary), and by a quick recovery of the body 
 lean forward with straightened arms. Let arms and 
 body work together like machinery all the time. 
 Jerking will never do. Smoothness and steadi- 
 ness are essential to the sculler as well as to the- 
 
S6 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 SAILING. 
 
 Any object floating on the water will have a 
 tendency to drift before the wind ; but a boat, with 
 its scientifically constructed hull, sails and rudder, 
 can be so guided as to sail with the wind on her 
 quarter or abeam, or even close-hauled, as it is 
 called — that is, with the wind meeting her at an 
 angle of about forty-five degrees. 
 
 Fig. I represents the deck plan of a boat sailing 
 
 close-hauled under two sails. The sails a and b are 
 
 drawn aft with the sheets (ropes) till they form an 
 
 .acute angle with the line of the keel. The wind, 
 
 •«# whose direction is indicated by 
 
 /the arrow w, strikes the sails at 
 a very acute angle, so that they 
 do not shake, but are just full. 
 The result of this pressure on 
 the sails is that the boat is pro- 
 pelled forward and also side- 
 ways away from the wind, mak- 
 ing leeway, as it is called. 
 
 If a boat has a deep keel, her 
 lateral (or side) resistance to the 
 water will cause the leeway to 
 be insignificant. If the boat is 
 of very shallow draught and so 
 offers little lateral resistance to 
 the water, she will not go ahead 
 at all, and the entire force of 
 the wind will be expended in 
 driving her bodily to leeward. 
 Lee-boards and centre-boards are fitted to shal- 
 low boats in order to obviate this. 
 
 The pressure of the wind on the sails, in addition 
 to producing the above effects, heels a boat over. 
 A sailing-boat is so constructed as to resist this 
 tendency to capsize. Either she is made narrow 
 and deep and is weighted with ballast as far as pos- 
 sible below the water-line, or she is shallow but of 
 considerable beam (width). The deep and weighted 
 boat will heel over more readily than the beamy 
 shallow boat, but the further she heels the greater 
 pressure of wind is necessary to make her heel still 
 more, for the leverage of her ballast increases as 
 ■she heels, and many boats with lead upon their 
 keels are practically uncapsizable. On the .other 
 hand, the beamy shallow boat does not heel so 
 readily, but after she has heeled to a certain angle 
 she will capsize. 
 
 The pressure of the wind on the sails not only 
 propels, drives to leeward and heels over a boat, 
 but, unless the sails are absolutely balanced, it tends 
 to turn her in one direction or the other. 
 
 In Fig. I we have a boat with two sails. If the 
 after sail is the more powerful, it is obvious that 
 the wind will drive round that sail and the stern of 
 the boat with it in the direction of the arrow C, 
 while the head of the boat will run up into the 
 wind. If, on the other hand, the head sail be the 
 more powerful of the two, the bow will be driven 
 off the wind and the boat v/ill bear away. 
 
 The sails of a boat should be so balanced that 
 she has a slight tendency to run into the wind; 
 and to counteract this weather-helm as it is called, 
 the steersman will have to keep the rudder slightly 
 to leeward of the line of the keel. 
 
 If a boat carrying weather-helm be left to her own 
 devices in a squall she will at once do the right 
 thing, luff up into (point towards) the wind and be 
 in safety; whereas a boat with too much head-can- 
 vas and carrying lee-helm will run off her course 
 and put herself in a dangerous position. 
 
 A boat should notgrz'pe — that is, carry too much 
 weather-helm — for steering will then be very hard 
 and the rudder, forced far over to counteract the 
 helm, will act as a serious drag in the water. 
 
 In balancing the sails, it must be remembered that 
 the further out a sail is on an extremity of a boat, 
 the greater its effect in driving that end of the boat 
 off the wind. 
 
 Sometimes a vessel's sails are not properly bal- 
 anced because the ballast has not been stowed in 
 the right place. It is evident, for instance, that if 
 ballast be shifted aft the weather-helm will be 
 diminished, for the stern of the boat will draw more 
 water and so offer more lateral resistance, whereas 
 the stem (bow) of the boat will draw less water and 
 will therefore be more easily blown round. A 
 centre-board, again, is generally placed well for- 
 ward, as it is found that when this is lowered the 
 weather-helm of the boat is considerably increased. 
 
 It has been explained that a boat properly con- 
 structed and rigged can sail within forty-five de- 
 grees of the wind. Now, if it be desired to sail to 
 some point more directly to windward than this, 
 what is called tacking becomes necessary. This 
 consists of sailing a certain distance close hauled 
 
SAILING. 
 
 87 
 
 with the wind on one side, and then turning round 
 and sailing close hauled with the wind on the other 
 side. A zigzag course is thus taken, each tack 
 being at about right angles to the last. 
 
 One diagram of Fig. 2 illustrates the process of 
 tacking with the wind right ahead, and in the other 
 diagram the wind is a point or two off, so that one 
 tack is longer than the other, there being, in sailor 
 language, a short leg and a long leg. 
 
 That the action of the rudder, when forced over 
 till it is at an angle with the keel, is to act as a drag 
 on that side and so deflect the boat's course, is 
 plain enough. But it is not so obvious a fact that 
 this action of the rudder in turning the boat is not 
 
 '^., 
 
 .0/ 
 
 to turn her bow round through the water, but to 
 push the stern sideways while the bow is almost at 
 a standstill. For the centre of rotation of a boat — 
 that is, the imaginary pivot on which she turns — is 
 always well forward. 
 
 In Fig. 3 A is the centre of rotation. So when 
 the rudder is put over to the right, the boat will re- 
 volve on the pivot A till she is in the position in- 
 dicated by the dotted lines. It will be observed 
 that the stern has moved about twice as far as the 
 bow. The further forward the centre of rotation 
 the greater will this disproportion be. 
 
 It is very important to remember this effect when 
 sailing very near any object, such as a buoy, for 
 while steering so as to turn the boat's head away 
 from the object and avoid it, the stern is made to 
 
 FIG. 3. 
 
 approach the object, and the very action that seems 
 calculated to prevent a collision may become the 
 cause of one. 
 
 Having shown what are the relations of the sails, 
 hull and rudder of a boat to the wind and water, 
 and explained how a vessel requires either ballast 
 or beam to prevent the 
 wind from capsizing her, 
 and needs draught to in- 
 crease her lateral resistance 
 and prevent her from being 
 blown to leeward, it re- 
 mains to add that the lon- 
 gitudinal resistance to the 
 water must be diminished / 
 as much as possible, so that 1 
 the boat can slip easily *' 
 through the water and 
 travel with speed. 
 
 For this reason a sharp 
 stem is put on a vessel, so that she can open a way 
 for herself through the water like a wedge, and she 
 is given what is called a fine ru7t aft, so that her 
 stern will not drag heavily. 
 
 Again, the larger the area of the boat's greatest 
 cross-section (Fig. 4), the more resistance that re- 
 sults and the slower she will travel. The area of 
 the cross-section is diminished by making a boat 
 of narrow beam, while the necessary displacement 
 is obtained by increased length and depth. 
 
 Now, the difficulty arises that most of the quali- 
 ties that insure speed in a boat have a tendency to 
 lessen her stability and even her lateral resistance^ 
 It follows that, while constructing a boat, a com- 
 promise has to be made between these three ; and 
 the problem of how to produce the fittest craft 
 becomes a very complicat- 
 ed one that has never been 
 solved yet and probably 
 never will be. 
 
 Thus a long, narrow, shal- 
 low boat will run the fastest 
 before the wind, but she 
 will not turn to windward 
 at all and will capsize with 
 great ease. 
 
 FIG. 4. 
 
 As it is recognized that beam is opposed to speed, 
 it has long been the fashion in England to con- 
 struct racing yachts extremely narrow and of great 
 draught. Such boats do attain speed, but at the 
 expense of all comfort and when a heavy sea is 
 running go through it instead of over it. 
 
 To come to the opposite extreme, there is the 
 
88 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 flat-bottomed very shallow and very beamy craft, 
 with a deck plan not unlike a flat-iron — a veritable 
 skimming-dish. Provided with a centre-board, 
 such a boat is well adapted for shallow and sheltered 
 waters. The centre-board can be raised while 
 crossing a shoal and the boat will then draw only 
 as many inches as a deep-keel boat of her size 
 would draw feet. She will be very fast in smooth 
 water, but in rough water she will pound heavily 
 into the seas and, having no good hold of the water 
 and little momentum, will lose her headway and 
 soon prove dangerous. 
 
 For real comfort and seaworthiness — and some 
 now maintain for racing purposes as well — a boat 
 that is something between these two extremes 
 answers the best ; that is, a boat that is moderately 
 beamy and has a moderate draught of water. This 
 compromise between the deep-keel and the centre- 
 board types of boat has long been popular in 
 America, and probably the victories of our yachts 
 , constructed on these principles over the English 
 crack deep-keelers will gradually modify British 
 views on this subject. Most Englishmen maintain 
 that a long hole through the bottom of a boat must 
 weaken ^her; that the great strain ! of the centre- 
 board, concentrated as it is on one small portion of 
 the keel, must render a large craft thus fitted ill- 
 adapted to buffet with a really heavy sea. American 
 builders, on the other hand, emphatically deny that 
 a centre-board is a cause of weakness and point to 
 our stanch pilot vessels and trading schooners, 
 which are all provided with centre-boards and which 
 are exposed to every sort of weather. 
 
 It is unnecessary to dwell on this controversy; 
 for though there is much divergence of opinion as 
 regards large craft, there can be no question as to 
 the advantages of fitting centre-boards into many 
 kinds of small craft, especially in those that are 
 intended for river sailing. 
 
 The theory of sailing thus set forth applies to 
 boats with one sail as well as those with two, and 
 to the smallest as well as to the largest. Row-boats 
 are often fitted with a movable mast so as to be 
 used for sailing as well as rowing. Or a clever boy 
 
 can put up a mast for himself and rig a sail that will 
 answer his purpose as well as a more expensive 
 craft. A block with a hole in it just large enough 
 to rest the foot of the mast should be securely fas- 
 tened in the bottom of the boat well forward. Di- 
 rectly over this, from gunwale to gunwale, a board 
 should be nailed, with a similar hole for the mast to 
 pass through so as to steady it. This mast and its 
 accompanying sail can thus be easily slipped out 
 and placed in the bottom of the boat during a calm 
 or when one wishes to row, and put up again if a 
 breeze springs up. A rudder can be readily shaped 
 out of any flat piece of board — or the steering at a 
 pinch can be done by an oar. When a sail-boat is 
 thus improvised out of a row-boat, a " false keel " 
 should be attached by fastening a long board edge- 
 wise to the bottom of the boat. 
 
 It is taken for granted that no boy, or man either 
 for that matter, will start out in such a boat or in 
 any boat until he has learned its practical manage- 
 ment from an experienced sailor. One lesson will 
 not suffice ; he must have had many lessons before 
 he can safely trust himself alone in a boat. The 
 first time he attempts the management himself his 
 teacher should be with him to aid him by sugges- 
 tions and to lend a hand if needed. Water is so 
 uncertain an element ; storms may arise so suddenly 
 that only a thorough master of seamanship should 
 venture any distance from shore in a sailing vessel 
 of any description. 
 
 Npt only should one understand how to sail a 
 boat before attempting to do so by himself, he 
 ought also to learn to swim before going on the 
 water at all. The art is so easily acquired that 
 there is little or no excuse for any one's remaining 
 in ignorance of it. However good a sailor the mas- 
 ter of the boat may be, it is always possible for 
 accidents to occur, and then a knowledge of swim- 
 ming may enable one to save the lives of others as 
 well as his own life. Therefore, the two most im- 
 portant rules for the would-be yachtsman to observe 
 are : first, learn to swim before going into any boat ; 
 and secondly, learn how to manage a boat before 
 assuming charge of it. 
 
CANOEING. 
 
 89 
 
 CANOEING. 
 
 Despite the assertion of even so great an au- 
 thority as Mr. Macgregor, whose name has now be- 
 come a household word, canoeing is an amusement 
 that must necessarily involve a considerable amount 
 of danger and ought to be indulged in by no one 
 who has not, according to the school phrase, 
 passed in swimming. Whether or not it is a very 
 comfortable means of locomotion is purely a matter 
 
 is to be accounted for, and must receive as much 
 consideration as the baggage that is to be carried. 
 Oak is the best wood that can be used, with the top 
 streak of mahogany and the deck of fine cedar. 
 These were the materials of the Rob Roy (Mr. Mac- 
 gregor's famous boat), and as her weight with all 
 her fittings was only 71 lbs., it would be unreasona- 
 ble to want one lighter; indeed, for anything like 
 
 of personal feeling; but in face of the fact that the 
 American and English canoe clubs now number 
 many hundreds of members it is only fair to sup- 
 pose that those who venture enjoy the mode of lo- 
 comotion. 
 
 In having a canoe built, it is a matter of consider- 
 able moment that in certain portions of its frame- 
 work it should be constructed for and peculiarly 
 adapted to the particular person who is going to 
 use it. The length of the foot decides the height 
 the canoe should be from keel to deck ; the length 
 of the legs the space required for the " well ; " while 
 the weight, of course, decides the displacement that 
 
 knocking about, flimsy canoes are utterly and 
 entirely useless and only aggravate the labor of 
 paddling. The length over all should be 14 feet ; 
 beam, 26 inches ; depth, from top of deck to bottom 
 of keel, 12 inches, though towards the gunwale this 
 is reduced to Z% inches. The well should be 33 
 inches long and 20 broad, and protected by a comb- 
 ing of oak half an inch in height. If the canoe is 
 intended for travelling purposes, the beam should 
 be 6 inches abaft midships ; so that when stores, 
 provisions, sails and so on are stowed away for- 
 ward it brings the craft to very nearly an even 
 keel. Otherwise, it should only be i foot abaft 
 
90 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 midships. The boards that compose the floor, and 
 on which you have to sit, resting your back against 
 the baclcboard, are about two feet long, and are 
 fitted so that the knees just touch the combing, 
 while the heels are against the footboard on the 
 keel, thus obviating the discomfort that would fol- 
 low on having to keep the legs stretched out 
 straight at full length. As it is taken for granted 
 that no one would think of going to the expense of 
 having a canoe built without securing the ser- 
 vices of some one who could supply him with 
 the many minor details that it would be im- 
 possible to give here, less important matters need 
 not be entered into ; only it should be added that 
 a comfortable backboard, after the following pat- 
 tern, goes a long way to lightening the labor of pad- 
 dling. It should be made of two strips of oak, i8 
 
 while — in fact, until he is thoroughly at home in his 
 craft and the way to manoeuvre her. Spruce-fir is 
 the best wood of which to have it made, as it com- 
 bines lightness and durability, two qualities that 
 can be readily appreciated after a day's locomotion. 
 The action, though it may not be violent, except in 
 currents and so on, is very fatiguing, owing to the 
 motion the body takes from side to side. At the 
 same time, practice will prove to the novice that he 
 requires to move but very little from one side to 
 the other. There can of course be no harm in hav- 
 ing a mast fitted to your canoe, and as soon as you 
 feel capable of the risk, set it up, hoist your sail 
 and — be prepared to capsize. This latter alternative 
 is only added by way of warning. With caution 
 nothing of the sort need happen, for the stiffness 
 of canoes under sail in a strong wind and heavy 
 
 inches long, 23^ inches wide, arched by two cross- 
 pieces, one of which should be grooved, so as to 
 rest on the combing, and work after the fashion of 
 a hinge, it being fastened thereon by a stout cord. 
 The result is that the muscles down the back are 
 supported and rested while the spine is left free. 
 The greatest possible care should be taken in se- 
 lecting the apron, which is too often left to the 
 last moment and chosen in a hurry. Being in- 
 tended to prevent the water making its way over 
 the deck into the well, and at the same time to 
 avoid being fastened in any way likely to impede 
 the canoeist in case of an upset, it may readily be 
 understood that it requires nice discrimination and 
 handiwork. It should fit close to him — in short, he 
 should be measured for it as for a coat. 
 
 The novice in canoeing should be content with 
 propelling himself by the aid of his paddle for a 
 
 weather has been satisfactorily proved on more 
 than one occasion. 
 
 In learning the management of a canoe practical 
 instruction is as indispensable as in all other kinds 
 of boats and in most occupations and amusements 
 of life. A few hints, however, may be of service and 
 are therefore given. 
 
 First. It is almost absolutely necessary that the 
 canoeist should learn to swim. An upset in a canoe 
 is not a pleasant thing, and at any rate a knowledge 
 of swimming is always useful. Therefore learn to 
 swim. 
 
 Secondly. On entering the canoe, be steady. 
 Step into it in the centre, and put the feet down 
 quietly. You can then seat youself slowly, keeping 
 the body as straight as possible, and then straight- 
 ening the legs. 
 
 Thirdly. Hold the paddle ^rwz/c — a slip may be 
 
CANOEING. 
 
 91 
 
 fatal ; hands not too far apart. A steady stroke is 
 necessary at first; afterwards you can try quick 
 paddling. No nervousness or sudden jerking must 
 enter into catioeing work. Perfect self-possession 
 and movement only of the arms, till practice has 
 made you perfect, are strictly enjoined. Have an 
 attendant at first ; it will give you confidence, and 
 his instruction will be of much assistance. Do not 
 overdo your first trials, and look well ahead for 
 snags and other partly submerged obstructions, 
 which to a beginner appear sometimes formida- 
 ble. 
 
 Lastly. Practise. Let the blade of the paddle 
 drop into the water as near the side of the canoe as 
 you can, but not deep in the water, and go ahead 
 with a long and steady " draw." 
 
 The true canoeist must not only learn how to 
 paddle and how to sail ; for paddling and sailing, 
 to quote the words of an expert " are only branch- 
 es of canoeing. He must learn to be a boat- 
 builder, for he may at any time have to repair his 
 own canoe himself. He must learn to be a sail- 
 maker, for he will always be trying to make im- 
 provements in the rig of his canoe. He must learn 
 to cook — in which science are included the prob- 
 
 lems of building a fire with wet wood and of find- 
 ing provisions in a wilderness. He must learn 
 geography with a minuteness with which only the 
 man can learn who personally explores streams 
 on which no boat except a canoe, has ever float- 
 ed. He must learn the art of running rapids and 
 detecting at a glance where the channel through 
 them lies — an art, which, more than any other 
 art or any known science, develops decision of 
 character. He must learn that wet and cold and 
 heat and damp are of no consequence, and can 
 even be made sources of delight. And, above all, 
 he must learn to bear with the infirmities of the 
 canoeist who cruises in company with him, and 
 never to shirk his rightful turn of duty in connec- 
 tion with scouring the frying-pan." 
 
 The canoeist is at once the captain, pilot, crew, 
 steward and cook of his little craft all in one. He 
 paddles when not sailing ; steers with his feet, 
 trims the sails when not paddling, and, in fact, he 
 is " monarch of all he surveys " from the seat in the 
 centre of his canoe. The sport is a most healthful 
 one and can be enjoyed from May to September 
 in the Eastern States and Canada, and nearly all 
 the year round in the South. 
 
92 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 MINIATURE YACHTING. 
 
 The building of miniature yachts, together with 
 the rigging and sailing of them on the park, ponds 
 of our large cities, has come to be as favorite a 
 pastime with American boys as it is on the park 
 ponds in London. It affords the most exciting 
 kind of sport to the boys, and in itself is a recre- 
 ation which presents an ample field for the de- 
 velopment of mechanical skill and ingenuity in 
 the construction of the little vessels, besides which 
 it fosters a love of yachting, and it is very instruc- 
 tive in affording information in the building of 
 model yachts and in the method of sailing them. 
 At the Brooklyn Prospect Park the sixty-acre lake 
 is set apart for the use of owners of miniature 
 yachts, and it is surprising how many " old salts " 
 there are, who have for years been to sea in the 
 mercantile marine, and who take interest in these 
 
 miniature yacht races, teaching the boys how to 
 sail their yachts, besides helping them to con- 
 struct them. At Conservatory Lake at Central 
 Park, New York, too, these little yachts are al- 
 lowed to sail. The sport has come from England, 
 where miniature yachting is quite a feature of the 
 sports of London boys. In fact, the little yacht 
 regattas which take place on the Serpentine Lake 
 in Hyde Park each summer are quite important 
 events. The Royal Model Yacht Club is presided 
 over by the Prince of Wales, and the royal family 
 generally have taken great interest in the pro- 
 ceedings on these occasions. Some of the yachts 
 belonging to this club are valued at ^looo, and yet 
 they do not exceed five feet in length. The 
 regattas are sailed for twelve guinea cups, and the 
 events are quite exciting at times. There are over 
 a dozen of these model yacht clubs in London, 
 and the leading club, learning of the establishment 
 of a similar organization in New York not long ago, 
 sent a communication over to New York desiring 
 information looking to an international contest 
 with miniature yachts. The subject may seem a 
 trifling one at a cursory glance, but the influence of 
 these miniature yacht associations in cultivating a 
 taste for nautical knowledge, and especially in giv- 
 ing opportunities for testing new models, is such 
 as to make the organizations worthy of support and 
 encouragement. 
 
FISHING. 
 
 93 
 
 FISHING, 
 
 In days gone by, with rare exceptions, the Ameri- 
 can angler was a mere novice in the Waltonian art. 
 A bamboo cane, a thirty-foot line, a simple leaden 
 sinker, and a couple of common hooks attached to 
 
 years ago a boyish sport has become a pastime as 
 popular with the wealthy and cultivated class of 
 American society as it is in England. Here in 
 America we have an immense advantage in pisca- 
 torial resources over every other nation in the 
 world, inasmuch as the extent of our country 
 and its range of climate admits of fishing all 
 the year round. Our ardent anglers can throw 
 their lines for game fish from January to De- 
 cember, in either one State or the other of 
 our great republic. Hence, our facilities 
 for game fishing are greater than in any 
 other land on the face of the globe. 
 Salmon in the Penobscot in Maine, 
 muscalonge in the large lakes, 
 striped bass on the shores of the 
 Atlantic at Newport and other 
 : watering-places, and "sheeps- 
 ^.: 2 _ head" and " snappers" in the 
 
 ^, Florida bays, are among the 
 
 , ^c£f largest of our American 
 
 r- game fish, the salmon 
 
 - ''^■■" .„ ranging as high as forty 
 
 ^. pounds, muscalonge at 
 
 times reaching a 
 weight of as much as 
 
 .J^ 
 
 cord snells, composed the "'■' 
 
 outfit of the old amateur 
 fisherman. This majority class 
 of the angling fraternity of some 
 twenty-five years ago used to smile 
 rather superciliously at the expen- 
 sive rods, the delicate lines, the vari- 
 <;ty of hooks and the elaborate prepa- '"''-'s., 
 
 rations generally made by the scientific '\'s!^'':. 
 and practised angler to tempt game fish ,.-'' 
 from their native element. Now all this is .^'il— — '^ 
 changed. Angling has become an art as 
 much practised in this country as in Eng- 
 land. We have our anglers' clubs and our fisher- 
 men tourists, who make the sport a specialty. 
 We now also have our regular seasons for the vari- 
 ous kirds of game fish, and what was some twenty 
 
 fifty pounds, and the large bass frequently turning 
 the scale at seventy or eighty pounds ; while the 
 . Southern sheepshead will range in the twenties and 
 snappers exceed at times that weight. Then to 
 
94 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 these monsters for line fishing are to be added the 
 angler's pets — the beautiful and palatable brook 
 trout and the river bass — together with the weak- 
 jish and the infinite variety of fish for sea-coast 
 anglers ; while the lakes provide an abundance of 
 pickerel, black bass, perch, etc. In catching these 
 game fish, rods and tackle of infinite variety are 
 used, from the heavy salmon and bass rod to the 
 delicate, whip-like rod of the trout-fly fisherman. 
 
 Fishing rods are made of bamboo cane, hazel, 
 hickory and other kinds of wood. They are of 
 different lengths, some fitted as walking-sticks and 
 others made to pack in canvas bags. The bamboo 
 ones are the best for general angling; but those 
 made of white cane are much superior for fine fish- 
 ing, being very light in weight and at the same time 
 very stiff. 
 
 In choosing a rod, observe that it is perfectly 
 straight when all the joints are put together and 
 that it gradually tapers from the butt to the top, 
 and is from twelve to sixteen feet long. A bad rod 
 is likely to snap in striking a heavy fish. Rods 
 fitted with several tops are at once the best and 
 most convenient. Some anglers have one rod for 
 trolling, another for barbel, perch or other heavy 
 fish, as well as one for fly-fishing, but a thoroughly 
 good rod will answer as well for all purposes. 
 
 A good trolling rod should be made of the choi- 
 cest stout and well-seasoned bamboo cane, from 
 fourteen to sixteen feet in length. When trolling 
 with the gorge, or live-bait fishing, a long rod is 
 necessary, to enable the angler to drop in his baited 
 hook over high sedges, rushes, etc., as also when 
 the water is bright, for he should then keep as far 
 away from it as he can, which a long rod enables 
 him to do while dipping, casting or spinning his 
 bait. If either a jack or pike see him, it is very 
 rare indeed that it will take the bait ; and again, 
 with a long rod you will be able to drop your baited 
 hock in some very likely place for jack or pike, 
 such as a small hole, division or clear place among 
 a bed of weeds, in a river or any other water where 
 there are any weeds. 
 
 There is some difference of opinion among an- 
 glers about the number of rings necessary for troll- 
 ing rods ; those who have their line on a thumb- 
 
 winder, or on a bank-runner, seldom place more 
 than two or three rings on their rod, and others 
 have only one large ring at the top ; but if a winch 
 is used, there should be a ring to every joint includ- 
 ing the butt ; make each ring of double twist wire, 
 fixed so as always to stand out, and nearly large 
 enough to admit the top of your little finger ; the 
 top joint should have two rings, the top one nearly 
 three times the size of the others; this prevents 
 any obstruction of the line running, which is of 
 material consequence. When not in use, rods 
 should be kept nicely stowed in a moderately dry 
 place, and they ought to be well scraped and re- 
 varnished every three years; should the joints be- 
 come loose by shrinking, they should be slightly 
 moistened. Should any accident befall a rod while 
 fishing, and you should not have a spare top with 
 you, your only remedy will be to splice your rod. 
 To do this the ends of the broken pieces for about 
 two inches must be laid parallel to each other, and 
 then tightly bound together with waxed silk or 
 very strong yellow hempen twine. 
 
 Next to the rod the line is of the utmost impor- 
 tance. Good lines should be well twisted. The 
 twisted lines should be made wholly of silk, or silk 
 hair, but those made of gut are the strongest and 
 best for young anglers; the twisted hair are the 
 cheapest, and the single horsehair the finest. The 
 young angler will find a line of about four yards 
 in length the most useful. A single gut line, with 
 a small porcupine float, is commonly useful for 
 general fishing; the plaited silk lines are the best 
 for trolling, and are less inclined to break or tan- 
 gle than the twisted. 
 
 The line must be shotted that the float may par- 
 tially sink in the water; and in putting on the 
 shots place them altogether within three inches 
 of the bottom loop of the line ; to which loop fix 
 the loop of the hair or gut to which the hook is 
 tied. When you make a line of silk, gut or hair, 
 remember it must be always finest at the bottom, 
 where the hook is fastened, very gradually increas- 
 ing in thickness 
 to the top. 
 
 There are vari- 
 ous kinds of floats, 
 each adapted for . 
 different kinds of 
 fishing. The prin- 
 cipal are (i) tip- 
 capped floats, (2) cork floats and (3) plugged floats. 
 The tip-capped floats are made of several pieces 
 of quills, or of reed for the middle and ivory 
 
FISHING. 
 
 95 
 
 or tortoise shell for the top and bottom, and nar- 
 row at each end, gradually increasing in circumfer- 
 ence to the middle. They are superior to all others 
 for angling in waters which are not very rapid, 
 particularly in roach fishing, as the least movement 
 or fine bite sinks them below the water. Cork 
 floats are generally made of quills at the top, with 
 a piece of cork, which is burned or bored in the 
 middle to admit the quill and then filed or ground 
 down smooth and painted. The bottom is plugged 
 with wood and has a ring to allow the line to pass 
 through. Cork floats are most suitable for fishing 
 in heavy or rapid streams, as they require a great 
 many shot to sink them and this weight of shot 
 prevents the baited hook from passing too rapidly 
 over the bottom. They are of various sizes and 
 forms ; instead of common quills the quills of the 
 porcupine are sometimes introduced and these 
 make an excellent strong float. A tapering cork 
 is usually preferable to a round one. The cheapest 
 floats are the plugged ones. They are made of in- 
 different quills, some of them of one goose quill 
 with a wooden plug at the bottom from which they 
 take their name. There is little to recommend 
 them excepting their cheapness as, they easily 
 loosen by the plug coming out and so cause a good 
 deal of annoyance. 
 
 A reel or winch is a most necessary addition 
 to the rod and line, as it enables you to vary the 
 length of your line at pleasure, and to play your 
 fish. The best winches 
 are those made to be fixed 
 in a groove on the rod, 
 and which are fastened 
 with brass ferrules made 
 for the purpose on the 
 butt, because you can fast- 
 en such a winch to any 
 sized joint. 
 
 There are three kinds of winches, check, multi- 
 pliers and plain ; the multiplying winch is apt soon 
 to get out of order, unless carefully and constantly 
 oiled, and is otherwise the least efficient and most 
 expensive of the three. Young anglers are recom- 
 mended, at first, to purchase a plain and strong 
 winch, which will answer every purpose, and be 
 much less expensive. A check winch is, however, 
 the best. 
 
 Reel lines are mostly made of silk and horsehair, 
 twisted or plaited together, but some are made en- 
 tirely of silk. The latter is preferable, as it is less 
 likely to twist, runs more freely and is not so apt 
 to rot. The length of lines varies from fifteen to 
 
 eighty yards ; but for general purposes thirty or 
 five-and-thirty yards is quite long enough. The 
 line should always be unwound after a day's fishing, 
 as, if it is allowed to remain wet on the reel, it soon 
 rots. 
 
 Hooks can be bought of all sizes, suitable for 
 every kind of fish to be caught. There are many 
 controversies among adept anglers about them, 
 and these are sometimes as violent as those upon 
 politics or religion. The hooks found most suit- 
 able for the following fish are these : 
 
 Barbel, 1,7, 8, 9. 
 Bleak, 11, 11, 13. 
 Bream, 10. 
 Carp, 7, 8, 9. 
 Chub, 8, 9. 
 Dace, 10, II, 12. 
 Eels, 8. 
 Flounders, 3. 
 Grayling, 10, 12. 
 Gudgeon, 9, 10. 
 
 Loaches, 13. 
 Miller's thumb, 13, 
 Minnow, 13. 
 Perch, 7. 
 
 Roach, 10, II, 12. 
 Rudd, 10. 
 Ruffe, 10. 
 Smelt, 9, 10. 
 Tench, 9, lo. 
 Trout, 6, 10. 
 
 To bait a hook with a worm, use the following 
 method : First enter the point of the hook close 
 to the top of the worm's head, and carry it care- 
 fully down to within a quarter of an inch of its tail ; 
 to do which you must gently squeeze or work up 
 the worm with your left thumb and finger, while 
 with your right you are gradually working the 
 hook downwards. The small lively piece of the 
 worm at the point of the hook moving about will 
 entice the fish ; but, mind, if too much of the 
 worm hangs loose, though it may entice fish to 
 nibble, j'et they will seldom take the whole in their 
 mouth, so as to enable the angler to hook them ; 
 on the contrary, he is frequently tantalized with a 
 bite, and, when he strikes, finds part of his worm 
 gone, and his fish too. Therefore, to bait a hook 
 well with a worm is necessary to insure hooking a 
 fish when you strike ; and it consists in drawing 
 the worm without injuring it (use him as you 
 would a friend, Walton says) quite over and up the 
 shank of the hook, leaving only a small lively part 
 of the tail below. If you bait with half a worm, 
 choose the tail end, and enter the point of the hook 
 into the top part, and bring it down nearly to tne 
 end of the tail, leaving only a very small piece of it 
 loose. If you bait with two worms on the same 
 hook, draw the. first up above the shank, while you 
 put the second on in the same manner as directed 
 with one worm, but enter the hook near the tail of 
 the second worm ; then draw the first one down on 
 the second over the shank of the hook, and all will 
 
g6 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 then be well covered, and the bait will be a very 
 bon-bon for perch, chub, carp, barbel and all large 
 fish ; but when angling for gudgeon and other 
 small fish half a red worm is sufficient, and the tail 
 end is best. If blood-worms are used, put on two 
 or three, in doing which be tender, or you will 
 burst them. 
 
 BAITS. 
 
 The principal baits are : 
 
 1. The Lob-worm. 
 
 2. The Brandling. 
 
 3. The Marsh-worm. 
 
 4. The Tagtail. 
 
 5. The Ash-grub. 
 
 6. Cowdung bait. 
 
 7. Caterpillars. 
 
 8. Cabbage-worms. 
 
 9. Crab-tree-worms. 
 
 10. Gentles. 
 
 11. Cad-worms. 
 13. Flag-worms. 
 
 13. Grasshoppers. 
 
 14. Wasp-grub. 
 
 15. Cockchafers. 
 
 16. Bread paste. 
 
 17. Cheese paste. 
 
 To scour and preserve worms the angler should 
 provide himself with a quantity of fresh moss. 
 Wash out all the earth and squeeze it, but not too 
 dry ; then put it into a jar and squeeze it lightly 
 down and throw in the worms upon it. The jar 
 should be kept in a cool place in summer and the 
 moss changed once in three or four days. 
 
 The landing-hook or gaff is a large hook, which 
 is sometimes barbed like a fish-hook, and sometimes 
 plain, fastened to one end of a handle ; this latter 
 is occasionally composed of several pieces, which 
 run one into' another, like the slides of a telescope. 
 
 A landing-net is a small net mounted on an iron 
 ring, which is fastened, like the landing-hook, to 
 the end of a handle or pole. 
 
 The clearing-line is made of several yards of 
 strong small cord, to the end of which is fastened a 
 heavy ring of lead or brass. If the hook should get 
 fast in a heavy weed, post or anything else, this 
 ring is put over the butt of the rod, and suffered to 
 slip down the line to the hook. The rod should be 
 held in the right hand, the top pointing downwards, 
 the clearing-line in the left; the ring falling on the 
 hook, from its weight, generally clears the hook 
 from what it may have struck against. If not, the 
 angler should hold the rod firmly and draw the line 
 
 sideways and break away. In this case, the angler 
 seldom loses more than a hook, if he acts as above 
 directed ; but without the assistance of a clearing- 
 line he frequently loses his float as well as his hook 
 and line, and sometimes breaks his top joint. The 
 brass clearing-rings are to be preferred because 
 they are jointed, and in consequence can be used 
 when the angler has a winch in his rod, in which 
 case the leaden ring could not be passed over the 
 winch. 
 
 The drag is a piece of iron with three or four 
 stout wire hooks without barbs, placed back to 
 back, fastened to a strong cord line, and which is 
 used to draw away weeds. 
 
 The bank-runner is mostly used in the day-time, 
 when the angler is fishing for roach, barbel, etc. 
 It is stuck in the bank, the bottom being strong 
 turned wood, sharpened for the purpose, with a 
 winder at the top for the line, which should be 
 from forty to sixty yards long, made of silk, thin 
 cord, or plaited Dutch twine. But there should be 
 a cork and bullet to the line, and the bait a dace 
 or gudgeon, which should swim about mid-water. 
 
 The disgorger is an instrument with a forked top, 
 about six inches long, made of iron, brass or bone. 
 Its use is to get the hook from a fish when swal- 
 lowed ; and in using it the forked end is thrust 
 down upon the swallowed hook with one hand, 
 while the line is held tight with the other : pressure 
 disgorges the hook, and it is then easily drawn out. 
 In attempting to get a gorged hook from a fish 
 without this instrument, you run a hazard of break- 
 ing the hook and hurting yourself. When the fish 
 is hooked through the lip, the angler has only to 
 hold the fish steadily m one hand, while with the 
 other he carefully disengages the hook. 
 
 ANGLING AXIOMS. 
 
 1. Never fish any water without leave from the 
 proprietor, unless it be water that is free to all 
 comers. 
 
 2. Never use unfair bait, or attempt to take fish 
 in any but a fair and sportsman-like manner. 
 
 3. Never start on a day's fishing without first con- 
 sidering the wind, weather and water. 
 
 4. Never let your shadow fall on the water. 
 
 5. Use the finest tackle of which your fishing will 
 admit. 
 
 6. Never begin bottom fishing without first 
 plumbing the depth. 
 
 7. Never intrude upon another fisherman's water. 
 
 8. And always remember that nothing is lost by 
 politeness. 
 
BOWLING. 
 
 97 
 
 BOWLING. 
 
 Though bowling in reality is an in-door game, 
 yet it is so active an exercise and is practised so 
 much more by boys and men than by girls and 
 women, that it is thought it should properly find a 
 a place in this volume. It is by no means, however, 
 exclusively a masculine amusement. Girls and 
 women belong to many bowling-clubs and enjoy 
 the sport almost, if not quite, as much as do their 
 brothers and husbands. But the sterner sex forms 
 undoubtedly a majority of bowlers, and so the 
 game is placed among the boys' pastimes. 
 
 Fifty years ago it was the most popular sport for 
 
 once more established in public favor, and it has 
 become a feature of fashionable recreation at the 
 prominent watering-places in summer and in the 
 cities during the winter. There is but one draw- 
 back to it, and that is that it exercises the muscles 
 of one side of the body too much, especially those 
 of the right side of the chest and right arm. When 
 either arm can be used with equal facility, the sport 
 is a valuable exercise for health. 
 
 A bowling-alley is usually about sixty feet long 
 and about five feet wide. It should be made of 
 very hard wood and be perfectly level. At each 
 
 an all-the-year-round game in our large cities. Es- 
 pecially was it a favorite in New York, where in 
 1840 there was scarcely a block on Broadway, from 
 Barclay to Bleecker Street, which had not its bowl- 
 ing alley. American bowling differs from the old 
 English game of "skittles," which was played on 
 an alley on which nine pins were laid in diamond 
 form. This game came under the ban of the law 
 in this country years ago, during a Puritan crusade 
 against " ye wicked sport of bowling," and the law 
 was evaded by substituting ten pins, set up on a 
 triangle instead of a diamond, and now this is the 
 "scientific" game of bowling. Twenty-odd years 
 ago saw bowling almost " played out " as a popular 
 game in this country, but of late years it has ob- 
 tained a renewed existence, having been started 
 on a new lease of life by the German residents o' 
 Brooklyn, who introduced large balls containing 
 finger holes in them, by which the bowlers were en- 
 abled to impart a bias to the balls. The game is 
 
 side of the alley is a gutter leading into the pit 
 (beyond the end of the alley) into which the pins are 
 knocked and the balls roll. Alongside of the alley 
 an inclined trough is placed to enable whoever sets 
 up the pins to return the balls to the player. 
 
 Four pins are placed in a row near the edge of 
 the pit ; in front of these three others stand, in 
 front of them two more are set ; and the tenth 
 pin forms a row by itself in advance of all the rest, 
 being the apex of the pyramid or triangle and 
 closest to the player. Near the head of the alley a 
 line is drawn across it, beyond which the bowler is 
 not allowed to step in delivering the balls. The 
 balls are made of hard wood and vary in size to suit 
 the taste and strength of the players. 
 
 Each bowler has ten turns (or " frames " as they 
 ire called), alternating with the others. At each 
 turn he rolls three balls and scores for that frame 
 as many pins as the three balls knock down. 
 (None of the pins are set up again until the three 
 
98 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 balls have all been rolled.) Should the whole ten 
 fall before his first two balls, he makes what is 
 known as a " spare ; " if his first ball brings them 
 all down, it is a " strike." Either event counts him 
 ten, with one or two balls, as the case may be, yet 
 to be rolled. These remaining balls are not rolled 
 at once. Nor is it customary to record the score of 
 a spare or strike as soon as made. But when the 
 turn of the bowler comes round again to play he 
 adds to the ten previously made the number of pins 
 then knocked over by his first ball, if it is a spare 
 he is completing, or by his first two balls, if he is 
 working out a strike, and the total is then placed on 
 the frame score. In addition to this he of course 
 scores what he makes on his three balls when com- 
 pleting his spare or strike. For example, if a play- 
 er makes a spare, say at his first frame, he puts on 
 the score board simply some mark (usually this, /), 
 to indicate the spare. At his next turn he knocks 
 over perhaps five pins on his first ball, two on his 
 second and one on his third. He then records 
 fifteen for his previous frame and eight more for 
 the present one. Should he make two strikes in 
 succession, he cannot complete the record of the 
 first one until his turn comes round for a third 
 play. (Strikes are commonly indicated on the 
 frame by the mark of a cross, thus X.) 
 
 Clubs including many members, where a dozen or 
 twenty players take part in a game, often roll only 
 two balls to a frame. This is done, as is the method 
 of playing off spares and strikes, to shorten the 
 length of the contest, which otherwise would be 
 tediously long. Of course its effect is to reduce the 
 total score which the average player will make on 
 his ten frames, though it is possible, if a spare or 
 strike is made at every turn, to reach as high a 
 count in a two-ball game as in one in which the 
 full number is rolled. Time is also saved by 
 using two alleys instead of one ; in fact, this is real- 
 ly essential to comfort where four or more partici- 
 pate in the contest. 
 
 Two, four or any even number of persons can 
 
 play the game. They are divided into two sides, 
 an equal number on each side, and the party whose 
 total score in the ten frames aggregates the most 
 wins the game. Sometimes an odd number take 
 part, but as this causes unequally matched sides it 
 is undesirable. The highest possible score for an 
 individual to make is ten strikes, which would net 
 him three hundred points — a maximum, it is hardly 
 necessary to add, that is rarely attained. Two 
 hundred is a good average, though many bowlers 
 can be depended upon in matches to regularly run 
 up two hundred and fifty and a few even two 
 hundred and seventy-five. 
 
 In rolling the balls they should not be thrown or 
 dropped so as to bump along the alley. It is best 
 to hold the ball with the arm hanging down and 
 swinging slightly. By thus swinging the ball and 
 running a few steps with it, sufficient impetus can 
 be given it to enable it to knock over all the pins 
 if it strikes them properly. The eye should be 
 fixed upon the head-pin, which should be struck a 
 trifle to the right or left of its centre. This causes 
 the ball to deflect a little from its straight course 
 and so knock over the pins on one side, while the 
 head-pin will fall over towards the opposite side 
 and push over the remaining pins there. Expert 
 players can also give the ball a twist as they roll it, 
 the effect of which when it strikes the pins is to 
 twirl them around as they fall and so make them do 
 more damage among the ones not actually hit by 
 the ball. Pins knocked over by a ball rebounding 
 from the back of the pit must be reset and do 
 not score. The same regulation applies to pins 
 knocked over by " dead men " (other fallen pins), 
 when this is caused by a ball in the gutter striking 
 the " dead men." Generally speaking when a ball 
 rolls into the gutter before striking any standing 
 pin, no pins knocked down by it are counted. 
 
 When two alleys are used it is customary to ex- 
 change alleys at the end of each game ; and in 
 matches between different clubs this is done after 
 each frame. 
 
RACKETS. 
 
 99 
 
 RACKETS. 
 
 A RACKET court resembles a hand-ball court, 
 just as the game of rackets resembles hand-ball; 
 but it is larger, and can be erected only at a con- 
 siderable cost. Hence, it is for the most part only 
 in the large cities that a racket court can be found. 
 
 
 FRONT 
 
 WALL 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 B 
 
 C 
 
 BACK 
 
 D 
 
 WALL 
 
 These courts are of various sizes, ranging from fifty 
 to fully eighty feet in length, and from thirty to 
 forty feet wide, with a very high roof and a back 
 wall of less height, having at the top of it a gallery 
 for spectators, who can thus look into the court 
 from above. Across the front wall, which is black, 
 is fixed a board, or balk, about two feet two inches 
 high, and a white line, called the " cut " line, is also 
 traced across it, about seven feet nine inches or 
 eight feet above the floor. 
 
 The floor itself, which should be of smooth stone, 
 asphalt, or concrete, perfectly level, is divided into 
 sections, as shown in the diagram. About half way 
 down the court, but nearer to the back wall than 
 the front, a line is marked parallel to those walls ; 
 and the back part so markec off is divided into two 
 equal portions, C and d, by a line traced at right 
 angles to the back wall. The two small spaces 
 marked a and B are service spaces, within which 
 the person who serves must place one or both of his 
 feet. The balls are not more than half the size of 
 hand-balls, and are played with " rackets," a pe- 
 
 culiar kind of bat, like a battledore, with strong cat- 
 gut laced crosswise through the frame. 
 
 The game is begun by one of the players (the 
 server) striking the ball against the front wall, above 
 the white line, so as to fall, without bounding, into 
 the back court opposite. Thus, if he stands at A, 
 he must strike the ball into D, where it must be 
 taken by one of the players on the other side, 
 either at the volley or at first bound. If, in serv- 
 ing, the ball is struck against the side wall, or roof, 
 or floor, before it hits the front wall, or if it is 
 served below the balk line, or is struck so hard as 
 to go out of court, it is a " hand out " — that is to 
 say, the striker loses his innings. If the ball is 
 served from the wrong place, or if it hits the front 
 wall above the balk line, but below the white one, 
 or if, after properly hitting the front wall, it fall in- 
 to any but the right court, or hit the roof or gallery 
 without going out of court, it is a " fault," and the 
 person to whom it is served is not obliged to take 
 it. He may do so, however ; and if he does, the 
 game proceeds as if it had been properly served. 
 Should he attempt to take it, and fail, the server 
 then scores an ace ; and the same result follows 
 whenever his opponent or opponents fail to return 
 the ball above the lower line. When an ace is won, 
 the man in goes over from A to B, and then " serves 
 left " — that is to say, into court c. The out-players 
 stand behind the server while the ball is being 
 served and taken ; and afterwards the usual ar- 
 rangement is that the server shall take all the balls 
 which fall inside the cross line, and his partner 
 shall take all which fall farther back. The man 
 who is served to, on the other side, takes all which 
 fall in the back courts, while his partner attends to 
 those which fall nearer the front wall. The game 
 is made up of fifteen aces, and after the first player 
 
 is put out, the others succeed one another in order, 
 each pair of partners having to be put out before 
 the other side goes in. Thus, supposing that M and 
 N are playing against X and Y, and that M and X 
 are both better players than their respective part- 
 ners. The question which side shall go in first is 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 usually decided, not by tossing a coin as in cricket, 
 but in the following way : It will be discovered, on 
 looking closely at a racket, that at the thin end of 
 it, nearest the handle, the strings which cross the 
 frame from edge to edge are twisted round the 
 other which go lengthwise, so as to project on one 
 side or face of the racket, and give it a " rough " 
 appearance, whereas on the other side they do not 
 project, but are " smooth." When, therefore, it is 
 required to decide as to innings, one of the players 
 holds his racket downward with the handle between 
 his finger and thumb, so that the top part of it 
 rests on the floor of the court. He then gives it a 
 spin, and lets it fall, while one of the adversaries in 
 the meantime calls " rough " or " smooth." When 
 the racket has fallen on its face, it is examined to 
 see which side is uppermost, and the question of 
 innings is decided accordingly. Supposing, then, 
 that M and N have called " rough " and that 
 " rough it is," M, being the better player of the two, 
 will proceed to serve, and as he and his partner 
 score each ace, the game will be called " one love," 
 " two love," " three love," etc. If he is put out after 
 making three aces, X will succeed him, and as he 
 serves the game will be called " love three." As he 
 makes his score it will be called " one three," "two 
 three," "three all," and so on, until he also is put 
 out, when his partner must go in, and serve from 
 the court opposite to that from which the last ser- 
 vice was made. When he is out M wiU go in, and 
 
 be followed by N. When a game has been won 
 there is no change of innings, but the player who 
 was serving when the game ended begins the next 
 game at " love all," and when he is out his two ad- 
 versaries go in in what order they please. Thus it 
 will be seen that at the commencement only one 
 hand is allowed to go in, but afterward the two 
 hands on each side go in successively till the game 
 is won. It will also be remarked that a player who 
 is good at serving has a great advantage, as when- 
 ever he scores the game, which he is sure often to 
 do, he secures not only this benefit, but that of first 
 innings in the next game. It is generally the rule, 
 that when the game is called " thirteen all," it may, 
 upon the demand of the out-player, be " set at five," 
 in which case five aces must be added to the score 
 of 13 before the game can be concluded on either 
 side. At a tie of 14 the game may be " set at 
 three." 
 
 If in serving a ball, it should touch either the 
 server or his partner, before it has bounded twice, 
 it puts him out. 
 
 If a striker in returning the ball hits the ball 
 against his partner's racket or person, it counts an 
 ace against him, or a hand out if he is in. 
 
 It is a " let " if the out hand unintentionally gets 
 in the way of the striker, and a " hinder " or " balk " 
 if he do it purposely, and in the latter case counts 
 an ace against him. 
 
 Two consecutive " faults " put a server out. 
 
 fpuSilffiBraipliHS 
 
 
 m If 1 n: 
 
 
 / -3 
 
BOWLS. 
 
 BOWLS. 
 
 Bowls is one of -the oldest games of ball extant, 
 and centuries ago was the most popular of field 
 games among the English nobility, bowling greens 
 in the olden time being as numerous as tennis 
 lawns are now. The regular game is played with 
 hard ligniim^uzits balls, turned in such a manner as 
 to make them diverge from a straight line when 
 bowled on the green and turn in toward the "Jack," 
 or ball, which the bowler aims for. In fact, the 
 regular game is quite a scientific sport, and presents 
 a field for a great display of skill. The game as 
 
 To lay down a bowling court like that below, a 
 level piece of hard surface ground is necessary, and 
 it would be well to sink the level of the court about 
 four or six inches below the surface, boarding the 
 sides of the court. When a regular court is not laid 
 out in this way, the game can be easily played on a 
 croquet or tennis lawn, the only points to be laid 
 down being the "tees "at the two ends and the 
 lines behind which the bowlers are to stand when 
 bowling. A small quoit is laid down in the centre 
 of the circle at each end, and this forms the " tee." 
 This court would be marked out as shown in Fig. 2. 
 
 From one to five players on a side can take part 
 in the game, each player rolling two balls, one each 
 alternately with an opponent. In delivering the 
 balls the bowler must stand with both feet back of 
 the bowler's line. All the players on both sides 
 bowl from the same place and for the " tee " at the 
 opposite end of the court. When all the balls of 
 both sides have been bowled the " end " is com- 
 pleted, and the side having the ball nearest the 
 " tee " counts one ace. Should a side have more 
 than one ball nearer the " tee " than any ball of the 
 opposite side, an additional ace is to be counted 
 for each additional ball. A ball bowled so as to 
 settle in the centre of the " tee " quoit counts two 
 
 LINE FROM "TEE" TO "TEE" 
 
 |50 feet in lengtli 
 
 ^ 
 
 5 
 
 FIG. I. 
 
 -© 
 
 H 
 
 W 
 
 FIG. 
 
 modernized for young players differs from the 
 regular game materially, and it is this latter game 
 of bowls only which is included in the list of sports 
 in this work. For this a special court is laid down, 
 in form as shown in Fig. i. 
 
 aces, provided it remains in position until the com- 
 pletion of the end. The game is won by the side 
 which first makes twenty-one aces. Ends are re- 
 served and the other " tee " bowled for whenever 
 all the players have rolled each two balls. 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BO VS. 
 
 ATHLETICS. 
 
 Gymnastic exercises may be begun by a boy 
 about eight years old, or may be commenced at 
 any age ; but in all cases one should begin gently 
 and proceed gradually without any abrupt tran- 
 sitions. They should be practised before break- 
 fast in the morning or before dinner or supper, 
 but never immediately after meals ; and the pupil 
 
 should be very careful, after becoming heated by 
 exercise, of draughts or colds, and in especial 
 should refrain from lying on the damp ground 
 or from standing without his coat Or other gar- 
 ments. Above all he should rigidly abstain from 
 the dangerous habit of drinking cold water, which 
 in many instances has been known to produce 
 Jatal results. 
 
 TRAINING. 
 
 It is impossible for any one to indulge to any ex- 
 tent in pedestrianism, rowing or other vigorous 
 athletic contests without going into some sort of 
 training, however slight it may be. Before any can 
 be thoroughly enjoyed, it is essential that the body 
 should be brought into condition and the constitu- 
 
 tion prepared for the severe tests to which it is sure 
 to be put. Until this has been satisfactorily accom- 
 plished (and it cannot be done without much per- 
 severance and self-denial) success at regattas or in 
 other out-door sports is quite out of the question, 
 and the most serious results will attend any attempt 
 to take part in such proceedings. Courage and 
 determination to win a race, whether on land or 
 water, are qualities very much to be admired, yet 
 they are entirely after-considerations ; the first and 
 chief endeavor must be to reduce the superfluous 
 ' fat without weakening the system, to secure sound- 
 ness in wind and limb — in short, thoroughly to pre- 
 pare the body so that it may be equal to the 
 emergencies that may hereafter present themselves. 
 Training should not, however, be begun hastily. 
 Before it is commenced, care should be taken to 
 get the stomach into condition for the dieting 
 it will have to undergo. These preliminary pro- 
 ceedings will be more or less prolonged, according 
 to the habits of life of the person. If a boy has been 
 given to eating unwholesome food, or smoking, he 
 does not begin under such favorable circumstances 
 as those who have not so indulged themselves. 
 Probably he has injured his digestion and interfered 
 to, at least, a slight degree with his liver ; a state of 
 things that he can readily appreciate by the restless- 
 ness of his night's sleep, a furred tongue and an 
 unpleasant taste in his mouth in the morning. 
 The first thing he must do is to give up pastry and 
 other indigestible food and throw away his tobacco. 
 When once he has made up his mind to go in for a 
 system of training, he should commence by taking 
 a mild aperient dose, such as salts and senna or a 
 little rhubarb. He should avoid extremes and only 
 take medicine enough to clear his stomach pre- 
 paratory to its new treatment. If he has been wise 
 enough to satisfy himself with very little in the way 
 of sweets and has refrained altogether from tobacco, 
 which to young people is simply poison, he may, 
 unless of weak or sickly constitution, begin to train 
 without any preliminary preparations. If his heart 
 and soul are really in the contest for which he de- 
 sires to get himself into condition, and he possesses 
 a small amount of strength of mind, he will soon 
 become accustomed to the daily routine of food and 
 exercise. It is no use beginning, and then yielding 
 to the temptation for this or that nice thing; when 
 
GYMNASTICS. 
 
104 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 once the ordeal has been commenced, it must be 
 carried out strictly and acciirately, or it may as well 
 be abandoned altogether ; for the desired state of 
 body can only be arrived at by one means, namely, 
 a large amount of self-denial and close adherence 
 to the prescribed diet. 
 
 There is of course some slight difference in the 
 systems of training to be pursued for rowing and 
 pedestrianism ; at the same time, in the chief and 
 important points precisely the same course has to 
 be taken. If a boy has a walking or running race 
 in view, he must remember this, that he has to suit 
 his daily exercise according to the distance of the 
 competition in which he is going to take part. For 
 short races he need do little more than keep his 
 digestion and wind in good order, taking care to 
 have, say, a couple of hours' good exercise in the 
 course of the day. We would here venture to 
 correct a grave mistake made very often by young 
 runners, who think that by continual practising and 
 "spurting" they learn to improve their pace. 
 They can adopt no better means for defeating their 
 own end than this, as it will tend far more to 
 diminish their pace than to improve it. On the 
 other hand, if they have a long course for several 
 miles to get over, speed is not so much a matter of 
 importance as endurance, and this latter quality 
 can only be obtained by accustoming the body to 
 long and severe exercise. For young persons, how- 
 ever, it is extremely injudicious to attempt too 
 great distances, and we would advise that two 
 miles, and no more, be made the outside limit. 
 Longer spins than this are seldom, if ever, tried in 
 ordinary amateur races. 
 
 According as the match that is to be contested 
 is in running or walking, so must the day's exercise 
 be regulated. Avoid, if for the former, taking too 
 much running practice, and that never for a greater 
 distance than that of the race in which you are 
 to take part. Good sharp, brisk walking is more 
 serviceable than anything else in getting the body 
 in order. And now, presuming that a boy is in 
 sound health, with good lungs and no unpleasant 
 thumpings about his heart, let us see how he should 
 regulate his training. Six o'clock to get out of bed 
 and commence the day. No one who intends to 
 train himself really seriously will wish to lie longer. 
 Then a cold tub with a big sponge and lots of 
 water, followed by a severe rubbing with a rough 
 Turkish towel, that leaves you all aglow. Dress as 
 quickly as you can, and go out for half an hour's walk, 
 or run, as you feel inclined. Be sure, however, not 
 to fatigue yourself, and see that you come in to 
 
 breakfast, say at half-past seven, with a good appe- 
 tite. Those who can eat porridge will find it a cap- 
 ital thing to commence breakfast with, followed by 
 the lean portion of a broiled chop or steak, with 
 bread at least two days old. Neither tea nor coffee 
 is desirable ; a glass or two of milk being much 
 better. 
 
 There is no need to bind yourself down to a stip- 
 ulated quantity of food ; eat what you feel you re- 
 quire, and no more. After breakfast get as much 
 rest as you can, say, for a couple of hours ; then take 
 yourself off for a couple of hours' walking or run- 
 ning, getting back to dinner by about two o'clock. 
 The programme for this meal is simple enough : a 
 joint of roast meat, either mutton or beef, a potato, 
 and sometimes a little cauliflower, or brocoli, just 
 to make a change, bread as before, and another 
 glass or so of milk. Poultry is sometimes intro- 
 duced, but we hardly think it good — in fact, as far 
 you can, stick to the good plain joint, or chop, or 
 steak, with bread and milk, and you will be aston- 
 ished how you will find your condition improved. 
 After dinner rest again for two or three hours, and 
 then about six o'clock take yourself off for another 
 hour's exercise, on your return from which you will 
 no doubt be fully prepared with an appetite for sup- 
 per. This meal should always be a light one, as it 
 is bad at all times, and especially in training, to go to 
 bed on a full stomach. Unless you feel you abso- 
 lutely require it, do not take any meat ; otherwise, 
 a chop is the least objectionable. Butter, spices,, 
 peppers and sauces should on no account be taken, 
 and, as we said before, so we again repeat, smoking 
 must be abjured. If the directions given are fol- 
 lowed out, defeat will not be occasioned througk 
 any error in the system of preparation. 
 
 WALKING. 
 
 In all gymnastic exercises walking, running and 
 jumpmg deserve the preference because they are 
 the most natural movements of man and those 
 which he has most occasion to use. Walking, 
 which is within the reach of everybody, ought to be 
 placed among the forms of exercise which are direct, 
 conservators of health, and which have the most 
 important beneficial effects upon our mental and 
 moral economy. It provokes appetite, assists di- 
 gestion, accelerates the circulation, brings the 
 fluids to the skin, strengthens the memory, and 
 gives cheerfulness to the mind, and in fatiguing the 
 limbs gives repose to the senses and the brain. 
 
 It might be supposed that every one knows how 
 
ATJfLEriCS. 
 
 i°5 
 
 SHORT STRIDE. 
 
 to walk: not so, however; some persons crawl, 
 some hobble, some shuffle along. Few have the 
 graceful, noble movement that ought to belong to 
 
 progression, or, how- 
 ever well formed, pre- 
 serve a really erect po- 
 sition and an air of 
 becoming confidence 
 and dignity. To teach 
 walking — that is to 
 say, to ■ teach young 
 persons to walk prop- 
 erly — it is suggested 
 that a class of them 
 unite, that they may 
 be able to teach them- 
 selves, which they may 
 I readily do if they fol- 
 low the instructions 
 given below. 
 
 A company of boys 
 being formed, the el- 
 dest, or the one best 
 adapted to the task, 
 should act as captain, and at the word of command, 
 "Fall in," all the boys are to advance side by side, 
 preserving between each the distance of about an 
 arm's length. At the word " Dress " each boy 
 places his right hand on the left shoulder of the 
 
 next, extending his 
 arm at full length, and 
 turning his head to the 
 right. At the word 
 " Attention " the arms 
 fall down by the side 
 and the head returns 
 to the first position. 
 The captain should 
 now place his little reg- 
 iment in the following 
 manner: i. The head 
 up. 2. The shoulders 
 back. 3. The body 
 erect. 4. The stomach 
 in. 5. The knees 
 straight, the heels on 
 the same Ime. 6. The 
 toes turned very slight- 
 ly outwards. The cap- 
 tain now stands before 
 his men, and advancing his left foot, his knee 
 straight, and his toe inclined towards the ground, 
 he counts one, two, placing his boot on the ground. 
 
 A FINE TREE STRIDE. 
 
 the toe before the heei ; he then directs his pupils 
 to obey him, and to follow his motions, and says, 
 "March," when each foot is advanced simulta- 
 neously, till he gives the word " Halt." He then 
 makes them advance, wheel to the right and left, in 
 slow time, quick time, always watching the posi- 
 tion of the body, and requiring that they move all 
 together. 
 
 A nother variation of walking is the tip-toe march, 
 an excellent preparation for running and jumping. 
 The boys being in line, the word " On tip-toes " is 
 given : each boy places his hands on his sides, and 
 waits for the word, " Rise," when they all gently 
 
 A WALKING RACE. 
 
 raise themselves on their toes, joining their heels 
 together, and keeping the knees straight, remain 
 in this position till the word " Rest" is given, 
 when they fall back slightly on their heels, their 
 hands at the same time falling down by their 
 sides. Proceeding in this manner through a few 
 courses, with such changes as may present them- 
 selves, the pupils will soon acquire a habit of grace- 
 ful walking, of the highest importance to everyone 
 who studies a gentlemanly bearing. 
 
 RUNNING. 
 
 Running is both useful and natural ; it favors the 
 development of the chest, dilates the lungs and, if 
 
io6 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 not practised immoderately, is a highly beneficial 
 exercise. To run fast and gracefully one should as 
 it were graze the ground with the feet, by keeping 
 
 -,^\ 
 
 "■^<!. 
 
 legs too high behind, taking too large strides, bend- 
 ing the knees too much and in not properly manag- 
 ing and economizing the wind. In all running ex- 
 ercises the young should begin gradually and never 
 get out of breath at any time. By careful practice 
 a boy may soon acquire the power of running a mile 
 in ten minutes. This is considered moderate speed. 
 In prompt running a thousand yards in two min- 
 utes is thought good work; and in quick run- 
 ning six hundred yards a minute is held to be good 
 The first distance that children from eight to ten 
 years of age should be allowed to run is about two 
 hundred jyards ; for those who are older, three 
 hundred yards ; and for adults four hundred yards. 
 It is, however, most essential that in running boys 
 should not overtax their strength or wind. We are 
 
 IN CONDITION. 
 
 the legs as straight as possible whilst moving them 
 forward. During the course the upper part of the 
 body is inclined a little forward, the arms are kept 
 
 ^^^P&s^ 
 
 OUT OF CONDITION. 
 
 close to the sides and bent at the hips, the hands 
 shut and the nails turned inwards. The faults in 
 running are apt to be swinging the arms, raising the 
 
 A VERY FAST SPRINTER. 
 
 not all constituted alike, and a boy who could last 
 for two hundred yards or so might injure himself 
 considerably by racing for a mile. 
 
 JUMPING. 
 
 Of all bodily exercises jumping is one of the 
 most useful ; and during our lives many instances 
 may occur of a good jump doing us essential service. 
 To jump with grace and assurance one should al- 
 ways fall on the toes, taking care especially to bend 
 the knees and the hips ; the upper part of the body 
 should be inclined forwards and the arms extended 
 towards the ground. The hands should serve to 
 break the fall when jurhping from a great height. 
 In jumping we should hold the breath and never 
 alight on the heel. Boys should exercise them- 
 selves in jumping by practising both on a level 
 and from a height, with due attention to the 
 
io8 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 above cautions. They may make progressive exer- 
 cises in level jumping by varying the distance from 
 time to time, and in height jumping by starting in 
 
 HIGH JUMP. 
 
 succession from the different steps of a stairway. 
 They will soon find themselves able to jump in 
 length three yards and in height six feet, without 
 injury. 
 
 LEAPING. 
 
 Leaping is somewhat different from what is 
 called jumping, as the object is to pass over an ob- 
 stacle ; and, as in jumping, it is of great importance 
 to draw in the breath, while the hands should be 
 shut, the arms pendent, to operate after the man- 
 ner of a fly-wheel or pendulum. It may be prac- 
 tised by a leaping stand, which can be easily made 
 of two sticks or stakes sunk in the ground, in which 
 little catches are made at various distances, on 
 which another piece of wood may be laid, that may 
 readily be knocked over, so as to offer no resistance 
 to the jumper, if he touch it, and save him from in- 
 jury by an ugly fall. The purpose of this stand is to 
 measure the height leaped. 
 
 The principal exercises in leaping are: i. The 
 high leap without a run. 2. The high leap with a 
 run. 3. The long leap without a run. 4. And the 
 long leap with a run. In the first of these the legs 
 and feet are closed, the knees are bent till the calves 
 nearly touch the thighs, and the arms are thrown m 
 the direction of the leap, which increases the mi- 
 pulse. This leap may be practised at the following 
 progressive heights : eighteen inches, twenty- four 
 inches, thirty-two inches, forty-eight inches — which 
 last is perhaps what few lads would attain. 
 
 The high hap with a run. — The run should never 
 exceed twelve paces, the distance between the point 
 of springing and the obstacle to leap over to be about 
 three-fifths the height of the obstacle from the 
 ground ; and in making it the leaper should go 
 fairly and straightly over without veering to the 
 side, and descend on the ball of the foot just beyond 
 the toes. The heights that may be cleared by the 
 running leap vary from three to six feet. A good 
 leaper of sixteen years old ought to leap four feet 
 six inches, and an extraordinarily good leaper five 
 feet. Adults well trained will leap six, and some 
 have been known to leap seven feet. 
 
 The long- leap without a ru7i. — The long leap 
 may be marked out from four to eight feet, accord-, 
 ing to the agility and strength of the leaper ; and 
 the object to be cleared, a small block of wood, which 
 should in this kind of leap be never more than six 
 inches high, placed midway. In leaping the body 
 is bent forward, the feet are closed, the arms first 
 sway forwards, then backwards, and then forwards 
 at the moment of taking the leap. In this kind of 
 leap ten or twelve feet is considered good work. 
 
 The long leap with a run. — The run should be on 
 firm level ground. The body should be inclined 
 forward, and the run consist of about twelve paces ; 
 a small block of wood, as before, being placed mid- 
 distance in the leap. The spring should be princi- 
 pally on the right foot, and the arms should be 
 thrown forwards at the time of the leap. In de- 
 
 LONG JUMP. 
 
 scending, if the leap be a very long one, the leaper 
 should descend principal^ upon his toes; if the 
 leap be not very long, he may descend on the balls of 
 
ATHLETICS. 
 
 109 
 
 the toes. The leap is considered good if fifteen feet 
 be cleared, but twenty may be done by a good leap- 
 er, and one or two individuals have fairly reached 
 twenty-three feet. 
 
 Vaulting.— I'hxB, is performed by springing over 
 some stationary body, such as a gate or bar, by the 
 aid of the hands, which bear upon it. To accom- 
 plish it, the vaulter may approach the bar with a 
 slight run, and, placing his hands upon it, heave 
 himself up and throw his legs obliquely over it. 
 The legs should be kept close together. While the 
 body is in suspension over the bar, the right hand 
 supports and guides it, the left remaining free, or 
 
 fall may be brought towards the place from which he 
 rose. 
 
 The pole is also employed in both long and deep 
 leaps. In both of these the mode of holding the 
 pole is similar ; but in leaping from a height the 
 pole should be grasped at the level of the knee, and 
 then he leaper, with a slight circular swing, should 
 descend on the balls of his toes. 
 
 CLIMBING A BOARD. 
 
 A board firmly secured at an angle of thirty de- 
 grees to the ground will afford capital amusement 
 
 A HURDLE RACE. 
 
 vice versa., if the jump is made to the right. The 
 vaulter may commence this exercise with a bar or 
 a stile three feet high and extend it gradually to six 
 feet. 
 
 Leaping with a pole. — A great variety of leaps 
 may be practised with a pole, which should be of 
 sufficient length and shod at one end with iron, so 
 as to take hold of the ground. The leaper should 
 grasp with his right hand that part of the pole a 
 little below the level of his head, and- with his left 
 that part of it just below the level of his hips. He 
 should then make a slight run, and placing the pole 
 on the ground, take a spring forward and swing 
 himself slightly round, so that when he alights the 
 
 and exercise to a boy in learning to climb it. He 
 should seize both sides with his hands and place 
 his feet in the middle on their soles. This will 
 teach him how to hold fast with his hands and to 
 cling with his feet. As the climber gets used to 
 this exercise, the angle of the board may be in- 
 creased. The young gymnast will find eventually 
 that he can ascend when the plank is perfectly per- 
 pendicular. A pole may be mounted in the same 
 manner. 
 
 CLIMBING THE POLE. 
 
 In climbing the pole one should be selected 
 about nine inches in diameter and firmly fixed in the 
 
no 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ground in a perpendicular position. To mount it, 
 it should be grasped firmly with both hands, the 
 right above the left. The legs are alternately to 
 
 LEAPING WITH A POLE; HALF OVER. 
 
 grasp the pole in the ascent by means of the great 
 toe, which is turned towards the pole. In descend- 
 ing, the friction is to be thrown on the inner part 
 of the thighs and the hands are left comparatively 
 free. 
 
 Climbing the mast is similar to climbing the pole; 
 but in this exercise the climber is unable to grasp it 
 with his hands but holds it in his arms ; the position 
 of the legs is the same as for the pole. If either 
 pole or mast is well greased it adds considerably to 
 the interest of the performance. 
 
 CLIMBING THE ROPE. 
 
 In climbing the rope, it is firmly grasped by the 
 hands, which are placed one above the other, and so 
 moved alternately. The heels are crossed over the 
 rope, which is held fast by their pressure, the body 
 being supported principally by them. In the sail- 
 or's method the rope passes from the hands round 
 the inside of the thigh, under the knee-joint, over 
 the outside of the leg, and across the instep. But 
 the enterprising gymnast will not be satisfied until 
 he can climb the rope by his hands only, allowing 
 the rest of his body to hang freely suspended. 
 
 CLIMBING TREES. 
 
 In climbing trees the hands and feet and knees 
 are all to be used ; but the climber should never for- 
 get that it is to the hands that he has to trust. He 
 should carefully look upwards and select the branch- 
 
 es for his hands, and the knobs and other excres- 
 cences of the trees for his feet. He should also' 
 mark the best openings for the advance of his body. 
 He should also be particularly cautious in laying hold 
 of withered branches, or those that have suffered 
 decay at their junction with the body of the tree, 
 in consequence of the growth of moss, or through 
 the effects of wet. In descending, he should be 
 more cautious than in ascending, and hold fast by 
 his hands. He should rarely slide down by a branch 
 to the ground, as it is extremely difficult to esti- 
 mate distances from the branches of a tree. 
 
 THE GIANT STRIDE. 
 
 The valuable and invigorating apparatus which is 
 called the" giant stride" in some places, and the 
 "flying steps" in others, is to be found in many 
 schools where an enclosed open-air playground can 
 be secured. Excepting on a few occasions, or 
 when the charm of novelty induces the boys to 
 exercise, it is seldom in much favor, and is usually 
 seen idle, with the ironwork rusting, the beam rot- 
 ting, and the ropes yielding to exposure. 
 
 In fact, it really seems as if the masters and 
 teachers were doing their best to weaken their ap- 
 paratus, and to cause a severe accident whenever it 
 breaks down, as such is always the case, sooner or 
 later. The rusty iron gives way to a harder pull 
 than usual, the ropes snap, or the upright post 
 breaks off level with the ground, and falls with dread- 
 ful force. 
 
 Boys, too, soon get tired of it ; they take hold of 
 the ropes, run round a few times, and then leave it, 
 naturally, seeing no interest in such a proceeding. 
 But in reality the " giant stride ' is a most useful ar- 
 ticle in the muscular education, as it exercises at 
 the same time the arms and legs, is capital for the 
 lungs and strengthens those invaluable muscles 
 about the loins which are so apt to be neglected 
 and by reason of whose weakness many dangerous 
 injuries occur to young and old. 
 
 Having fixed upon a suitable spot of level ground^ 
 well laid with gravel and carefully drained, dig a 
 hole at least seven feet deep, and fill eighteen inch- 
 es with stones about the size of the fist. Pound 
 and press the stones well down and then pour rough 
 gravel upon them until the surface is made tolerably 
 level. The object of these stones is to prevent the 
 water from accumulating round the post and rot- 
 ting it. 
 
 Now for the post. This should be at least twenty 
 feet long, so as to leave about fifteen feet projecting 
 
ATHLETICS. 
 
 when set upright in the hole. The butt should be 
 left veiy large, as is done with ordinary wooden 
 gate-posts, and the whole affair ought to be of thor- 
 oughly seasoned wood. Unless this is the case 
 it is sure to rot, and then down it comes some day 
 when least expected. Triangular steps should be 
 nailed upon opposite sides, as otherwise the daily 
 task of removing and replacing the ropes will be 
 very irksome. 
 
 Get a blacksmith to make a stout iron pin, having 
 a projecting shoulder to prevent it from entering 
 too far into the wood. This pin should be driven 
 into the top of the pole, which should be guarded 
 from splitting by a stout iron collar. There should 
 also be procured an iron disc having a cap or thim- 
 ble in the middle, which is intended to receive the 
 iron pin and to enable the disc to spin round freely. 
 Four holes should also be bored through the edge 
 of the disc. Purchase four iron S hooks, and the 
 same number of swivels, and a good store of well- 
 made half-inch rope, and the machine may then be 
 set up. 
 
 First char carefully the whole of the butt that 
 is to enter the ground, and for about six inches 
 above, in order to prevent the wood from being in- 
 jured by wet. Place it upright in the hole, testing 
 it by a plumb-line tied to the top, and fill in the 
 hole with earth, pounding it down firmly with a 
 heavy rammer. You cannot be too careful about 
 this process, and the apparatus should not be used 
 until the earth has had time to settle. While wait- 
 ing for this operation, cut the rope into appropriate 
 lengths, and fasten one end of each rope to a swivel, 
 and the other to the centre of a stout baton of elm 
 or oak wood, about eighteen inches long. Unless 
 you are very sure of your powers of splicing ropes 
 and making " eyes," let the ropemaker do this for 
 you, as it is a most important operation, and involves 
 the security of the gymnast in no slight degree. It 
 is necessary to have swivels, as the ropes would 
 otherwise become so twisted asjfo lose their freedom 
 of play, or even to weaken their structure. These 
 preparations being completed, mount the post by 
 the steps, taking the cap with you ; grease the pin 
 well with an end of tallow-candle, and slip the cap 
 upon it, taking care to spin it well, in order to assure 
 yourself that all is right. Hang the swivels to the 
 circular plate by means of the S hooks, one curve 
 of which passes through the hole in the plate and 
 the other through the loop in the swivel. 
 
 The ropes should be just so long that when they 
 hang loosely along the pole the cross-bar should be 
 two feet from the ground. As, however, new ropes 
 
 stretch in a wonderful manner, it is needful to allow 
 considerably for this property. 
 
 One thing more is needed, and then the whole 
 apparatus will be complete. 
 
 Measure the greatest distance which can be 
 reached by the feet of any one swinging round by 
 the ropes, and about one yard beyond that line 
 erect a slender pole nearly as high as the central 
 post, having pegs driven at intervals of four inches. 
 This is intended to aid the learner in leaping. 
 ■ fiaving now everything ready, we first look to all 
 the fastenings — a precaution which must never be 
 neglected. See that the pin and swivels are well 
 greased ; take the cross-bar of one rope in both 
 hands, and retire from the post as far as the out- 
 stretched arms will permit. Of course, if there are 
 four performers, each takes his stand exactly oppo- 
 site his neighbor. It is better not to exercise 
 alone, on account of the unequal strain on the 
 post; and it is evident that the opposite players 
 should be as nearly as possible of similar weights, 
 so as to balance each other in their course. It may 
 easily be imagined that the strain upon the base of 
 the post is enormous, there being a leverage of 
 fifteen feet, so that some precautions are necessary 
 to prevent injury. 
 
 Keeping our right sides to the post and the rope 
 tightly stretched, we begin to run, throwing as much 
 weight as possible on the rope and as little as possible 
 on the feet. As the pace increases, the feet are 
 taken off the ground and touch it at longer inter- 
 
 LEAPING WITH A POLE: WELL OVER. 
 
 vals until, when at full speed, they only come to the 
 ground occasionally, just sufficient to maintain the 
 impetus. 
 
112 
 
 OUT- DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 Having kept up this speed as long as agreeable, we 
 ■slacken the pace gradually and stop. Next time we 
 take care to run the contrary way, keeping the left 
 side toward the pole. This is done to exercise equally 
 the muscular system on both sides of the body ; and, 
 to save time and space, it maybe here said once for 
 all, that when any feat is described, it should be ac- 
 complished in both directions with equal ease. 
 
 One of the most exciting exercises which can be 
 obtained on the giant stride is the following method 
 of leaping. 
 
 Set the string to quite a low elevation — say two 
 ieet from the ground ; stand with your back to it, 
 the cross-bar in your hands, and run quickly round. 
 When you come about one-quarter of the distance, 
 try to fling yourself into the air, not by jumping with 
 the legs, but by letting the whole weight depend on 
 the rope, so that the centrifugal force takes you off 
 your feet. As you touch the ground, take about 
 three long steps, and at the third step hurl yourself 
 again off the ground, with the body straight, and the 
 feet extended well behind, and the impetus will carry 
 _you over the string, and land you neatly on the other 
 side. You will soon learn to increase the height of 
 the jump, until you can pass over the string at an 
 elevation of ten feet with perfect certainty. 
 
 Another very pretty, though not so dashing, a 
 feat is to spin round on your own axis as you run 
 round the course. At first it is needful to manage 
 this cautiously, as a slip of the foot is sure to disturb 
 your balance and send you ignominiously scraping 
 your way over the gravel in a derogatory and rather 
 pain f ul position. When , however, you have mastered 
 this art, you can go round revolving the whole time, 
 keeping your legs straight, feet together, and toes 
 pointed. 
 
 There are many modifications of these exercises 
 -which might be described, but, as space is limited, 
 -only two more can be mentioned. 
 
 In the first of these exercises the performer never 
 ■moves hand or foot, but holds himself straight, stiff 
 and immovable as an Egyptian statue, and in the 
 course of his progress round the central post his 
 feet describe a series of circles, or rather spirals, 
 while his hands merely move in a circle, and serve 
 as the axis on which the body revolves. 
 
 To accomplish it, the performer grasps the cross- 
 tar in both hands at the full stretch of his arms, 
 holds himself quite straigiit and stiff, points his 
 toes, and then falls forward. If he has the strength 
 and nerve to hold himself quite stiff, though his 
 face comes rather near the ground, the whole body 
 swings off the ground, the hands being the pivot. 
 
 and the feet take the course denoted by the dot- 
 ted line, the hands retaining their position. It is 
 possible, by dint of practice, to manage so as to 
 make the entire circle of the pole in four such 
 revolutions. 
 
 The last is the most daring and difficult of all the 
 feats, being nothing less than passing over the string 
 with the head downwards and the feet in the air. 
 This should not be attempted by any one but a tol- 
 erable gymnast, and is achieved by running at the 
 string in the manner already described and, just as 
 the body is rising in the swing, drawing the hands 
 smartly to the breast, throwing the feet into the air 
 and clasping the rope between them. 
 
 THE TRAPEZE. 
 
 The best place for a trapeze is in a strongly-built 
 barn or outhouse, but where that is not possible or 
 convenient, one can be erected in the open air 
 either as a permanent fixture, or movably, so as to 
 be taken down in wet weather or when not in use. 
 Wood rots so easily when exposed to water, and an 
 accident caused by the breaking of rotten wood 
 may be so serious, that all owners of trapezes are 
 earnestly cautioned against running any risks in 
 the matter. 
 
 A trapeze really is nothing more than a high 
 swing, intended to be used chiefly by hanging from 
 it with the hands, instead of sitting or standing in 
 it as in the ordinary swing. It is better and safer 
 to use wire for the two side ropes than the hempen 
 article, though the latter will answer. If erected in 
 a barn or other building, these ropes can be at- 
 tached to any lofty beam already there, or one can 
 be put up for the purpose. But if the trapeze is to 
 be used in the open air, then two heavy posts 
 should be sunk in the ground, or better, pla.ced in 
 stone sockets, so as to be readily slipped out and 
 stowed in a dry place in damp weather. Over the 
 tops of these post% a stout cross-piece should be 
 firmly secured, from which the ropes are to be 
 suspended. This cross-piece can be fastened to 
 the posts by screws, so as to be easily separated 
 from the posts when the apparatus is taken down. 
 Guy ropes are necessary to stay the posts and pre- 
 vent sagging or toppling over. The two side ropes 
 are attached one to each end of the bar on which 
 the gymnast swings and performs his feats. 
 
 For practising the feat of passing through the 
 air from one trapeze to another a double set of 
 apparatus is required ; but for most useful purposes 
 one set is sufficient. The ropes by which the bar is 
 
ATHLETICS. 
 
 suspended must be thoroughly stretched before 
 they are attached to the bar, or there will be no 
 certainty in the swing. Few persons who have not 
 had practical experience on this subject would im- 
 agine how greatly the length of a rope is increased 
 by the process of stretching, and how absolutely 
 necessary is this precaution. 
 
 The ropes are passed at each end over an iron 
 eye, the upper one of which is hitched over a hook 
 on the cross-bar, and the other receives the hook 
 which suspends the bar. These hooks are useful, 
 because, when needed, a pair of rings can be substi- 
 tuted for the bar, and permit certain variations in 
 the performances. Still their presence or absence 
 is quite optional, and the only remark that need be 
 made is, that they should be furnished with springs 
 like the fastening of a breguet chain, so as to guard 
 against the possibility of slipping. The bar itself 
 must be very heavy, or otherv/ise it will not have 
 sufficient weight to keep the cords at full stretch, 
 and in consequence will not swing truly. Those 
 which were employed by Leotard were iron, with a 
 mere shell of wood, so as to give a pleasant hold for 
 the hands, and we have seen them made of iron 
 coated with leather. The last point that needs 
 notice is the perch or stand from which the per- 
 former launches himself. This may be fixed at any 
 convenient elevation, and its centre should exactly 
 coincide with the centre of the bar. Having now the 
 apparatus ready, let us commence the performance. 
 
 Set the bar swinging boldly ; ascend the perch 
 quickly, and seize the bar in both hands. Wait for 
 a moment, until the ropes are fully stretched, and 
 then launch yourself for a swing. Now there are 
 two ways of doing everything — a right and a wrong 
 way ; and the present instance affords no exception 
 to the rule. The wrong way — and the usual way — 
 is to fall forwards from -the perch. Now this is 
 quite wrong ; and if you act in such a manner you 
 will bungle your sway, and will not retain sufficient 
 impetus to enable you to return to the perch. 
 
 The right mode of starting is as follows : Stand 
 with the spine well bent backwards, the body 
 tolerably stiff, and leaning well against the heavy 
 bar. Now draw yourself up gently by the arms, as 
 if you were trying to lift your chin above the bar, 
 and you will find yourself started without any 
 trouble. Keep the back still bent, and as you de- 
 scend allow the arms gradually to assume a perfect- 
 ly straight position. You will then swing out fairly 
 and boldly, and by the least possible sway at the 
 end of the swing will retain sufficient impetus to 
 enable you to resume your stand on the perch. 
 
 Even in this there is an art. If you merely allow 
 yourself to swing back as you swing forward, you 
 will be disagreeably reminded of your error, by 
 hitting the back of the leg smartly against the edge 
 of the perch. In order to avoid this misfortune, 
 draw up the legs sharply just before you reach the 
 end of the return swing, and you will find them 
 come down on the perch with perfect ease. 
 
 If you are using the rings instead of the bar, you 
 can vary this part of the performance by turning 
 round in the air and crossing the ropes so that you 
 alight on the perch with your back towards the 
 trapeze, though it is necessary to give a sharp twist 
 as your foot touches the perch and so to turn in 
 the direction in which you started. 
 
 Take notice that the arms are always at full 
 length during the swing and that any illustrations 
 which represent the performer swinging with bent 
 arms - are entirely erroneous. There is another 
 fault into which artists often fall. Thinking that 
 they are obtaining pictorial effect, they represent 
 the ropes which sustain the bar as forming an angle 
 with the arms of the performer, whereas the arms, 
 body and ropes are, or ought to be, all in the same 
 line. 
 
 When you have accomplished the swing and re- 
 turn satisfactorily, you may advance another step. 
 Swing off as usual, and, when you have reached the 
 extremity of the swing, you will find yourself hang- 
 ing for a moment motionless, the attraction of 
 gravitation being balanced by the impetus of the 
 swing. Just at this important point, shift your hold 
 on the bar and change sides, as you would do if the 
 ropes were perpendicular and quiet. 
 
 You will then face the spot whence you started, 
 and in landing on the perch you must be careful to 
 give yourself a twist as you place your feet on the 
 perch, and with a slight exertion of the arms you 
 will draw yourself upright without difficulty, and 
 without running the risk of falling off the perch 
 again — a frequent and ignominious misfortune. 
 
 It will now be time to practice the descent from 
 the swinging trapeze to the ground. Begin by sit- . 
 ting on the bar, grasping it with the hands, and fall- 
 ing off backwards, taking care to come to the ground 
 with pointed toes and crossed feet. The reason of 
 this precaution is that, if the feet are crossed, the 
 knees are separated, and that when the body yields — 
 as it must do when it touches the earth — there is no 
 danger of hitting the chin against the knee, and 
 thereby receiving a momentary shock to the brain 
 by the teeth striking together. 
 
 When you can manage the " fall-back," as it is 
 
114 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 called, with tolerable ease and certainty, seize the 
 bar with the hands, set it swinging, keeping your 
 face to the perch, and when you are nearly at the 
 full extent of the swing loosen your hold, and allow 
 yourself to come to the ground. Be very careful to 
 point the toes, as has already been described, and 
 continue the practice until you can stand on the 
 perch, launch yourself backwards, and fly off at the 
 highest point of the swing. 
 
 Always leave the bar while you are swinging back- 
 uiards, because the attitude of the body is then such 
 as to insure your coming to the ground in the cor- 
 rect position ; whereas, if you do so while swinging 
 forward, you are nearly certain to overbalance your- 
 self, and either fall on your nose, or go staggering 
 along in a very undignified style. 
 
 The next process is to start as usual, raise your- 
 self in a sitting position on the bar, and have some 
 one remove the perch. Fall back as before, only, 
 instead of coming on the ground, hang by the legs, 
 and accustom yourself to swing in this attitude. 
 When you can accomplish that feat without diffi- 
 culty, and feel no nervousness at your strange posi- 
 tion, remove one leg from the bar and hang by the 
 other. Practice this with both feet. It is not 
 nearly so difficult as it looks, and is an important 
 feat to perform, because it gives such perfect pres- 
 ence of mind. 
 
 The next feat looks positively awful, but, as usual 
 in gymnastic performances, is perfectly easy, requir- 
 ing no skill at all, and only a little courage. Sit on 
 the bar when it is still, and do the " fall-back." 
 But, instead of allowing the feet to pass between 
 the ropes, spread the legs as far apart as possible, 
 and bend up the feet rigidly. The consequence 
 is, that the insteps hitch in the ropes, slide down 
 them, and the body becomes suspended by the feet. 
 
 which are firmly hitched between the ropes and 
 the bar. 
 
 If you possess a second trapeze, you may now 
 proceed to the beautiful series of performances 
 which are achieved upon them. 
 
 Let them at first be set moderately near each 
 other, so that when the bar of the first trapeze is at 
 full swing, it passes within a yard or four feet of the 
 second. Start off as usual, and just as you are well 
 on the rise, after passing through the upright, loose 
 your hold of the bar, and you will pass through the 
 air towards the second bar, which you catch rapidly. 
 
 If you perform the feat nicely, you will have so 
 much impetus to spare that you will be carried along 
 on the second bar, and may either attempt to return 
 or quietly drop to the ground at the end of the 
 swing. If you prefer the latter course, be sure to turn 
 through your arras and come down on your toes. 
 
 You will find that the return to the perch, simple 
 as it looks, is by far the most difficult feat that has 
 yet been mentioned. Make but the least mistake 
 and failure is certain. If you do not catch the bar 
 exactly at the right moment, you lose your impetus ; 
 and if you do not seize it exactly in the right place 
 you do not swing truly between the uprights, and 
 consequently cannot land on the spot at which you 
 aim. 
 
 The method of performing this feat is as follows : 
 Swing off the perch, pass the second bar, and while 
 at the full extent of the swing, change sides and 
 give yourself a slight impulse with the feet. You will 
 now meet the first bar swinging towards you, and, 
 if you can seize it just at the right moment, you will 
 have sufficient impetus to reach the perch. If not, 
 swing once more, give yourself a hearty impulse with 
 the legs, and try it again. Failure is certain at first, 
 but after a little practice the feat becomes easy. 
 
 
HARE AND HOUNDS, OR PAPER CHASE. 
 
 "5 
 
 HARE AND HOUNDS, OR PAPER CHASE. 
 
 Hare and hounds is one of the best liked games 
 to be found among those played by American and 
 English school-boys, nor is it despised by those too 
 old to be called boys. It takes some hours to play 
 it, but a cool, bright half-holiday in autumn can- 
 not be much better employed than in a well-organ- 
 ized " paper chase." 
 
 The principle of it is simply this : one boy repre- 
 sents the hare, and runs away, while the others act 
 
 party sally forth. The hare is furnished with a 
 large bag of white paper cut into small squares, 
 which he scatters on the ground as he goes. A 
 provision is made that the hare shall not cross his 
 path, nor return home until a certain time ; in ei- 
 ther of which cases he is considered caught. The 
 hounds also are bound to follow the track or " scent " 
 implicitly, and not to make short-cuts if they see 
 the hare. The hare then starts, and has about 
 
 THE HARES. 
 
 as hounds and pursue him to a specified goal. The 
 proper management of the game, however, requires 
 considerable skill. The first thing to be done is to 
 choose a hare. The hare should not be the best 
 runner, but should be daring, and at the same time 
 prudent, or he may trespass into forbidden lands, 
 and thereby cause trouble. A huntsman and 
 whipper-in are then chosen. The huntsman should 
 be the best player, and the whipper-in second best. 
 Matters having been thus arranged, the whole 
 
 seven minutes' grace, at the expiration of which 
 time the huntsman blows a horn or whistle with 
 which he is furnished and sets off, the hounds 
 keeping nearly in Indian file, the whipper-in bring- 
 ing up the rear. The huntsman is also sometimes 
 furnished with a white flag, the whipper-in with a 
 red one, the staves being pointed. (These flags 
 can be improvised for the occasion by fastening 
 white and colored pieces of cloths to sticks.) Off 
 they go in the chase until the huntsman loses 
 
ii6 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 the scent. He immediately shouts " Lost ! " on 
 which the whipper-in sticks his flag in the ground 
 where the scent was last seen and the entire line 
 walks or runs round it in a circle, within which 
 they are tolerably sure to find the track. The 
 huntsman in the meanwhile has stuck his flag in 
 the ground, and examines the country to see in 
 
 where the last track was seen, and wasted time in 
 searching for it again. Moreover, they seem to en- 
 courage the players wonderfully. Sometimes the 
 chase extends fourteen or fifteen miles in length ; 
 but before such an undertaking is commenced it 
 is necessary to prepare by a series of shorter chases, 
 which should, however, be given in an opposite 
 
 THE HOUNDS. 
 
 what direction the hare is likely to have gone. 
 When the track is found, the player who discovers 
 it shouts Tally ho ! the huntsman takes up his flag 
 and ascertains whether it is really the track or not. 
 If so, he blows his horn again, the hounds form in 
 line between the two flags, and off they go again. 
 It is incredible how useful the two flags are. Many 
 a hare has been lost because the hounds forgot 
 
 direction to the course fixed upon for the grand 
 chase, as otherwise the tracks are apt to get mixed, 
 and the hounds are thrown out. The hare should 
 always carefully survey his intended course a day 
 or two previously, and then he will avoid getting 
 himself into quagmires or imprisoned in the bend 
 of a river. A pocket compass is a most useful aux- 
 iliary, and prevents all chance of losing the way. 
 
THE CHASE. 
 
ii8 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 X 
 
 SKITTLES. 
 
 The modern game of skittles is played in a man- 
 ner somewhat similar to bowling, but the number 
 of pins is only four. These are very large, and are 
 arranged on a square framework, so as to present 
 one of the angles to the player. The bowl iised for 
 playing this game is of the shape of a 
 cheese, and is usually made of lignum vitae, 
 as being very heavy and hard wood. The 
 game requires more bodily strength than 
 ten-pins, as the bowl must be thrown upon 
 the skittles, and not rolled up to them. 
 
 The best play is to throw the bowl with 
 a round-handed swing of the arm, so as to 
 strike the nearest skittle at the right of 
 its upper third. The ball then springs to 
 the second skittle, and from this generally 
 twists to the third, while the fourth skittle 
 is sent down by the roll of the one first struck. It 
 is very difficult to make this throw successfully, and 
 many players prefer driving down the first and third 
 skittles with a straightforward shoot, and then 
 making their second ball spring across from the sec- 
 ond to the fourth. This latter stroke appears very 
 difficult, but is soon learnt ; the great point being 
 to throw the ball high, so that it may drop as per- 
 pendicularly as possible on the left of the 
 upper third of the second skittle. In the 
 . long run, the constant repetition of this 
 practice will over balance occasional brill- 
 iancy of play. 
 
 There are several ways of counting the 
 game in vogue in different parts of Eng- 
 land. The simplest is that of counting by 
 " pins " in a given number of throws — 
 three, six or nine — he who knocks down 
 most being winner. Sometimes the game 
 is counted by points — three throws each 
 hand being allowed. If all the pins are knocked 
 at first throw, it counts a "treble " or three points ; 
 if in two throws, a " double " or two points ; if in 
 three a " single" or one point. If a pin is left 
 standing after the third throw it counts nothing. 
 At the end of three hand the points are compared, 
 the highest being thewmner. 
 
 KNUR AND SPELL. 
 
 A FAVORITE game in the north of England is one 
 known as " knur and spell." It, undoubtedly, has 
 a common origin with trap-ball, but greater skill is 
 required to play it and proficiency in it can only 
 be gained by a considerable amount of practice. 
 
 IRON SPELL. 
 
 The name is given it from the principal implements 
 used in playing it : the " knur " or knor being a 
 gnarled piece of round wood, and the spell an in- 
 strument to " spill " or cast off the knur or ball. 
 " Pommels " are the bats or sticks with which the 
 ball is struck. 
 
 In some places players content themselves with 
 merely fixing the spell and then touching the 
 
 FLAT SPELL AND KNUR. 
 
 spring, which is immediately released by the weight- 
 ed rack falling down. As the knur springs into 
 the air, the player strikes it with the fiat side of 
 the pommel, and drives it as far as he can across 
 the field. But to play well requires something 
 more than this. 
 The first thing to be done is to fix upon a centre, 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 or some suitable spot of ground, and then the 
 direction of the wind is observed ere the spells are 
 fixed, for generally players play with the wind un- 
 less it is agreed to the contrary. Every twenty 
 yards from the centre is then marked by a stick 
 known as a " bob," for each separate twenty yards 
 is a unit in the score of the players, which is 
 formed generally on so many bobs " up," or in other 
 words so many score yards to so many " rises." 
 Usually there are five rows of bobs. The spells are 
 
 POMMEL. — SIDE VIEW. 
 
 placed right and left of the centre, and the choice 
 of position is decided by lot, but the spells must not 
 be placed more than seven yards apart or less than 
 three. An alteration of the wind does not inter- 
 fere with the game, unless an agreement is made to 
 that effect. Thirty rises each is the usual game, 
 which is thus decided. 
 
 Each player has five rises at a time, and counts 
 one for every twenty yards his knur is cast after 
 being struck by the pommel. If the knur, which 
 is sometimes the case, splits in two, a new rise is 
 allowed, and ten minutes of time to make the new 
 knur playable. If the knur remains among the 
 " bobs " so that its value is doubtful, a string is 
 stretched from the side of the bob farthest from the 
 spell, and if the knur does not clear the string, it 
 only counts for the value of the " bobs " it lies 
 amongst ; if it does clear the string, it counts one 
 more. If a knur is struck out of the line of "bobs," 
 
 POMMEL. — BACK VIEW. 
 
 it mu^w be measured from the spell before the 
 player has another rise. If he strikes three out of 
 the line of bobs, he must turn his spell, and should 
 he again drive the knur out of the line of bobs he 
 must play again. About 200 yards is a fair average 
 score, which is marked by ten bobs towards the 
 total. 
 
 it up in the air, and as it falls hits it "on the fly" 
 to the outfield, and if it be caught by any fielder on 
 the fly the batsman goes to the field and the fielder 
 who caught the ball becomes the batsman. The 
 batsman is out also if he sends the ball to the field- 
 ers on the bound, or if he strikes at the ball three 
 consecutive times without hitting it, in which case 
 the fielder next in turn goes to the bat. Usually 
 the latter receives the ball when thrown in from the 
 field, and passes it to the batsman. Any number 
 can take part in the game. 
 
 FUNGO. 
 
 FuNGO is a good practice game in batting, and in 
 catching batted balls. It is played with a round 
 bat and any small ordinary hard ball ; one player 
 acting as the batsman, while all the others are field- 
 ers. The batsman takes the ball in one hand, tosses 
 
 HAND-BALL. 
 
 Hand-ball is a modification of the old English 
 game of " Fives." It can be played in a court reg- 
 ularly arranged for the purpose or on any smooth 
 piece of ground which is bounded by a high fence 
 or a brick wall ; the side of a house will do very well 
 for this. Four or five feet from the wall (and paral- 
 lel to it) a line is drawn on the ground called the 
 "ace line." In front of this {i.e., between it and 
 the wall) stands one player, called the "server," 
 and back of the line stands another, known as the 
 " striker." No bat or other implement is used in 
 the game except a small rubber ball. This the server 
 bounds on the ground, and as it rises strikes it (with 
 the palm of his hand) against the wall so that it will 
 bound back to the striker over the line. If it does 
 not do so, that is, if it falls to the ground (on bound- 
 ing from the wall) in front of the line, the server 
 must try again and continue trying until he succeeds 
 in sending it from the wall fairly over the line. 
 When it has crossed the line the striker must send 
 it back against the wall, using only the palm of his 
 hand in doing so. He can hit it either on the fly 
 or on its first bound from the ground. If he fails 
 thus to hit it, or in hitting it to send it against the 
 wall, he loses his turn and must exchange places 
 with the server. Every time the striker returns the 
 ball so that it strikes the wall fairly without first 
 having touched the ground he scores one "ace," 
 and the player who first reaches a score of twenty- 
 one aces wins the game. After the ball is once in 
 play (that is, after the server has bounded it from 
 the wall over the line) the striker serves himself and 
 he continues to do so by batting the ball with his 
 palm against the fence or wall until either he misses 
 it (on the fly or first bound from the ground) or 
 until the ball touches the ground in front of the 
 line. Under no circumstances must he catch the 
 
OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 ball or take hold of it with his hand ; only the server 
 can do that at the beginning of an innings. As 
 many innings are played as are necessary to enable 
 any one of the boys to make a score of twenty-one 
 aces. The striker can play anyTvhere behind the 
 line, but must never step over it. He naturally has 
 to be very active and skilful to run up much of a 
 score in a single innings, but he can do so if he 
 " places " his ball accurately against the same spot 
 on the wall every time, for in such a case he need 
 move about very little, as the ball would always come 
 back to him where he stands. A double game can 
 be played by alternating the servers and strikers be- 
 tween the two sides, and an odd number of boys 
 can take part by arranging in advance the order 
 in which each shall have a turn at striking and at 
 serving. In the English game each point counted 
 five instead of one, and this gave it its name. 
 
 CAP-BALL. 
 
 Cap-ball is the simplest game of ball known to 
 the play-ground. It is played on a space of ground 
 which affords room for running out of reach of a 
 thrown ball. Selecting a ground near a wall, each 
 boy playing in the game places his cap on the 
 ground close to the wall, and in such a manner that 
 the ball can be tossed into any cap readily. The 
 ball used in the game should be a soft one — a rubber 
 air ball being the best — as otherwise injuries may 
 occur, as the ball is thrown hard at the players. A 
 line being marked on the ground about fifteen feet 
 from the wall, one of the players takes his station 
 at it, and begins the game by throwing the ball 
 into one of the caps ; the moment this is done all 
 the boys run away, excepting the one into whose 
 cap the ball is thrown, who immediately runs to 
 take it out, and endeavors to strike one of the f Jgi- 
 tives by throwing the ball at him ; if he can do so, 
 the one struck has a small stone placed in his cap, 
 and has to take his turn at pitching the ball. 
 Should the thrower fail to hit one of the boys as 
 they are running away, a stone is put into his cap, 
 and he has to pitch the ball into the caps again. If 
 a player fails to throw the ball into a cap, he also 
 has a stone placed in his cap, but continues 
 throwing until he succeeds. When a player gets 
 three stones in his cap, he is out. When all the 
 players but one have been struck out, he is consid- 
 ered the winner, and the punishment of the losers 
 then commences ; one of them standing near the 
 
 wall bounces the ball with all his force so as to send 
 it as far from the wall as he can, and next stands 
 with his back to the wall, stretching out his right 
 arm, and placing the back of his hand quite close 
 to the wall, while the winner, standing where the 
 ball fell, takes aim, and throws the ball at the said 
 loser's hand three times ; each of the losers likewise 
 receives the same punishment from him. 
 
 HOCKEY (OR SHINNEY). 
 
 Hockey is an old Eng- 
 lish game, which may be 
 played by any number of 
 boys. Each player must 
 provide himself with a 
 stick having a curved or 
 crooked head at its lower 
 extremity. A large mead- 
 ow or open common is re- 
 quired for this game when 
 the players are numerous. 
 Two goals or bounds should 
 be formed about five hun- 
 dred yards apart (though a 
 shorter distance will suffice), 
 each goal being indicated by one or two small flags. 
 Sides are chosen by two of the best players, who 
 select their partners alternately. Chance decides 
 which side is to have the first strike at the little 
 wooden ball (a bung from a barrel answers the pur- 
 
 STICKS. 
 
 pose excellently), which is the object of contention. 
 The ball is put down at about one third distance 
 from the striker's goal, and the sides are arranged 
 in lines opposite each other. When all are ready, 
 the striker calls out " Play ! " and drives the ball 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 forward toward his adversaries' goal. Tlie aim of 
 the players on one side is to strike the ball over 
 their opponents' bounds, while those of the other 
 party endeavor to prevent this by driving the ball 
 in an opposite direction over the other goal. When 
 the ball is driven over either of the goals the game 
 is decided, and sides must be chosen afresh. This 
 exciting game is called " shinty " in Scotland and 
 " bandy " in many parts of England and Wales. 
 
 HOLE-BALL. 
 
 Hole-ball differs from cap-ball in there being as 
 many holes dug in the ground near a wall as there 
 are players, which holes are made use of instead of 
 hats or caps. The holes are numbered, and each 
 player is allotted to one of them by chance. The 
 ball is bowled into the holes, not thrown. Should 
 one of the runners be struck by the player into 
 whose number the ball has been bowled, he may, if 
 he can obtain the ball soon enough, strike another 
 with it, and he in his turn may strike a third ; in 
 this way five or six may be struck in succession, un- 
 til a miss is made, when the one so missing loses a 
 point and then becomes the bowler. Sometimes 
 one player volunteers to take the ball from another, 
 and endeavors to hit one who may be near him ; 
 should he fail, however, he loses a point and must 
 take the consequences. When a player has lost 
 one point he is called a " fiver ; " when he has lost 
 two, a " tenner ; " and when he has lost three, a 
 "fifteener." A player stands out when he has lost 
 four points. The losers are punished as in "cap- 
 ball." 
 
 TWO OLD CAT. 
 
 Two old cat is a capital game for younger boys, 
 and serves as an excellent training-school for base- 
 ball, which it somewhat resembles, though in a 
 much simpler form. Ten is the best number to play 
 it, but a smaller number on a pinch can be made to 
 answer. There are no sides, each in turn going to 
 the bat, and all the others uniting for the time 
 being against him. One acts as catcher, another 
 as pitcher, a third as short-stop, three as basemen, 
 and the remainder as outfielders. If there are not 
 players enough to fill all these positions, the short- 
 stop and three outfielders can be dispensed with. 
 The pitcher is only allowed to pitch the ball to the 
 
 bat, no kind of throw in the delivery of the ball 
 being permitted ; and he acts as pitcher until the 
 batsman is put out, when the catcher goes in to the 
 bat, and the pitcher becomes the catcher, and each 
 of the occupants of the other positions advances 
 one position, the retiring batsman going to right 
 field, or whatever is regarded as the lowest place. 
 The batsman can be put out on a fly catch of a fair 
 or a foul ball, and on a foul-bound catch, and also 
 on three strikes. He can also be put out after hit- 
 ting a fair ball on the bound, if the ball be held at 
 first base before the batsman reaches it. Should he 
 make his base after such hit, however, he is entitled 
 to take the bat again, or he can resign it in favor 
 of any player he chooses. Of course the game is 
 played on a diamond field, roughly laid out so as to 
 mark the several base positions. The ball and bat 
 most commonly used are the regulation ones for 
 base-ball. 
 
 TRAP BALL. 
 
 For trap ball a com- 
 mon ball, a round bat, 
 /Tfel and a " trap " are re- 
 j.\,__ qyi].g£j_ The latter is 
 a solid piece of wood 
 shaped something 
 like a shoe, and hav- 
 ing a movable tongue or spoon. Before beginning a 
 game, it is as well to fix the trap by sinking the heel 
 in the ground. I nnings being tossed up for, the win- 
 ner places the ball in the spoon of the trap, touches 
 the tongue of the trap with his bat, and as the ball 
 rises strikes it away as far as he possibly can. If he 
 makes more than two unsuccessful attempts at 
 striking the ball, or touches the tongue more than 
 twice without being able to hit the ball, he is out 
 and the next player takes his innings, which order 
 of succession should be settled beforehand. If one 
 of the fielders can catch the ball before it falls to 
 the ground the striker loses his innings ; but if it is 
 not caught, the fielder who stops it must bowl it 
 from the spot where he picked it up, toward the 
 trap ; if it touches the trap, the striker is out ; but if, 
 on the contrary, it misses, the batsman counts one 
 toward his game. It is usual to place two bound- 
 aries at a given distance from the trap, between 
 which it is necessary for the ball to fall when struck 
 by the batsman, for if it falls outside of either he is 
 out. As in fungo, there is no fixed number for the 
 game, each in turn playing against all the others. 
 
122 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 BALLOON BALL (PALLONE). 
 
 Balloon ball is an old Italian game, once 
 very popular in England. It is played in courts 
 somewhat like tennis courts, only with a much 
 larger floor space. At Bologna, where there is a 
 model court, the floor is a parallelogram three 
 hundred feet long by sixty feet wide, bounded on 
 one of its sides by a high wall and on the other 
 and along the ends by galleries for spectators. 
 
 There are three players to a side, the duty of the 
 two " primi " or best players being to stand well 
 back to return all the long and difficult balls, while 
 the third is on the look-out for any ball that comes 
 between him and the transverse line, or that is not 
 likely to reach his companions. 
 
 The ball used is five inches in diameter and is 
 made of two coats of cowhide inflated with air. 
 Its weight is twelve ounces. Each player is armed 
 ■with a bracciale or gauntlet of wood, covering 
 the hand and extending nearly up to the elbow. 
 The exterior of the gauntlet is thickly studded 
 with pointed bosses, projecting an inch and a half. 
 Across the inside is a transverse bar, which is 
 grasped by the hand so as to render it manage- 
 able by the wearer. Its weight is about four 
 pounds and to wield it effectively is therefore no 
 light task. ^ 
 
 These gauntlets are used to beat the ball back- 
 wards and forwards in the air from one side to 
 the other. The object of the game is to keep 
 the ball in constant flight, and whoever allows it to 
 fall dead within his bounds loses. It may, however, 
 be struck on the rebound. Whenever it falls be- 
 yond the side boundaries of the court or is not 
 struck over the central line, it counts against the 
 party playing it. When it flies over the extreme 
 limits of an opponent's court it is called a volata, 
 and is reckoned the best stroke that can be made. 
 At the service (further) end of each court is a spring 
 board on which the principal player (the best bat- 
 ter with the bracciale) stands. Near him is the pal- 
 lonaio, whose business is to keep the balls well in- 
 flated with air; and at a short distance off, facing 
 him, stands the mandarino, who gives ball. As 
 soon as the ball leaves the mandarino's hand, the 
 chief batter runs forward to meet it and strikes it 
 as far and as high as he can. His opponents return 
 it if they are able to do so, and then the ball is 
 batted backwards and forwards by the two sides, 
 fifteen or twenty times, perhaps, before a point is 
 scored. 
 
 The game is necessarily a very fatiguing one 
 
 and every player is obliged to carry, as a regular 
 part of his equipment, a napkin to wipe from his 
 face the perspiration which flows so profusely while 
 he is engaged. In Italy players of the game frequent- 
 ly make exhibition tours. Such parties usually 
 consist of twelve individuals, of whom six play for 
 three days and then rest for the next three days, 
 the severity of the exercise rendering this course 
 absolutely necessary. 
 
 Notwithstanding its somewhat laborious charac- 
 ter, the amusement is one that ought to be popu- 
 lar with Americans if they should once adopt it, as 
 it is a game whose principal requirements are that 
 promptness and agility on which Americans so 
 justly pride themselves. There is little or no dan- 
 ger attending it, and the fatigue is a healthy fatigue, 
 stimulating to the appetite and strengthening to 
 the body. 
 
 DOG-STICK AND SPLENT. 
 
 A GAME is played in northern England somewhat 
 like trap-ball, which is known as " dog-stick and 
 splent." The splent is a tongue-shaped piece of 
 wood, having one end tapering and the other 
 rounded and slightly hollowed so as to hold the 
 ball. The dog-stick is a rounded piece of wood 
 very much like the bat used in base-ball. The ball 
 is made of boxwood, loaded with shot to make it 
 heavier and covered with a coating of stout leather. 
 
 A boundary-line having been agreed upon, one 
 player goes with his dog-stick to the splent and the 
 rest place themselves, some at the boundary-line 
 and others further off in the field to intercept the 
 ball. The batter then gives a blow to the tapering 
 end of the splent which throws the ball up into the 
 air. As it rises he strikes it with his dog-stick so 
 as to send it as far as he can into the field. Should 
 he fail to strike it on two successive attempts, or if 
 he should not send it over the boundary-line, or if 
 it should be caught by one of the others, he loses 
 his turn at batting and scores nothing. The play- 
 ers are not obliged to catch the ball with their 
 hands ; they may catch it in their caps, under their 
 arms or in any way they choose. As the ball is 
 very hard care needs to be exercised to avoid an 
 injury in stopping it. 
 
 The ball having passed the boundary uncaught, 
 it is thrown back by any one of the fielders towards 
 the splent. The striker may intercept it with his 
 dog-stick as it is thus returned (before it touches 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 123 
 
 the ground), either by knocking it towards the field 
 again or simply by stopping it. He then, as it lies 
 on the ground, guesses the number of lengths of 
 his dog-stick it is distant from the splent. Should 
 he overestimate the distance, he counts nothing 
 and gives up his place at the splent. If his guess 
 is either exactly right or under the mark, it is 
 scored to his credit. Thus, should the exact dis- 
 tance be three and a half lengths and he had esti- 
 mated it at three, the number called by him is 
 credited to him. But if on the other hand he had 
 guessed four he would be out. In any case he may 
 not add more than five to his score, so that when 
 the ball is palpably beyond five lengths from the 
 splent the umpire calls " five " and that number is 
 added to the striker's score without measurement. 
 Evidently it is to the interest of the striker in the 
 first place to land the ball as far from the splent as 
 possible, and in the second place in guessing its 
 distance to give as high a number as he safely can 
 without overshooting it. On the other hand his 
 opponents strive in returning the ball to send it as 
 near the splent as they can in order to keep down 
 the batter's score. The order in which the players 
 take their turn with the dog-stick should be settled 
 by mutual agreement in advance. The winner of 
 the game is he who scores the most in one, two or 
 three rounds, as may be determined upon before 
 the play begins. 
 
 THE CROSS-BOW. 
 
 A CROSS-BOW is in effect nothing more nor less 
 than an ordinary bow set crosswise in a butt which 
 is shaped like an ordinary gun-stock. 
 
 The object of its first invention as a weapon of 
 war was to obtain greater accuracy and, in some 
 sort, greater propelling power with less muscular 
 exertion. Some of the old cross-bows made of steel 
 were very powerful, but they required a lever or 
 winch to set them and were, take them all in all, so 
 unwieldy that they never superseded the old long- 
 bow, which, in English hands especially, proved its 
 complete superiority to all rivals on many a hard- 
 fought field. 
 
 The Chinese even to this day make use of the 
 cross-bow in their wars. They have invented a 
 kind of repeater — one that once charged will shoot 
 off several arrows in succession, the archer not hav- 
 ing even to reset the bow each time, and only need- 
 ing to work a lever backwards and forwards. 
 
 As a plaything the cross-bow, while perhaps not 
 quite the equal of the catapult, will afford plenty of 
 amusement in shooting at a target. Pieces of to- 
 bacco-pipes serve excellently as missiles. 
 
 QUOITS. 
 
 The game of quoits furnishes a healthy exercise 
 and is an enjoyable and frequently exciting sport. 
 The chief drawback to it is that it is apt to exercise 
 one set of muscles too 
 much when indulged in as 
 a regular pastime. Other- 
 wise it is a very desirable 
 addition to the list of out- 
 door games. The ordinary 
 game for youths is played 
 with small quoits (iron 
 rings, one side of which is 
 concave and the other con- 
 vex), in form as shown in 
 Fig. I. 
 
 These are held in the 
 hand of the player so that 
 when thrown their edge 
 may strike the ground first, 
 the method of holding them being as shown in Figs. 
 2 and 3. 
 
 They are tossed so as to strike the ground, as 
 shown in Fig. 4. When tossed so as to fall on the 
 "hob," the quoit should be pitched so as to just 
 pass over the " hob," as shown in Fig. 5. If tossed 
 so as to strike the " hob," as shown in Fig. 6, the 
 chances are that it will rebound back or to one 
 side. 
 
 When the sides have been chosen, the first player 
 stands level with one of the hobs, and taking a step 
 forward with his left foot delivers the quoit by a 
 swinging movement of the arm from behind him to 
 the front. The quoit should fall and remain with its 
 
 FIG. I. 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 convex side uppermost, either imbedded in the earth 
 or clay, or else lying flat with the concave side on 
 the ground. If it rolls along the ground and then 
 
124 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 stops, it counts from the place where it finally rests, 
 unless the cause of its rolling was a collision with 
 some other quoit already delivered, or unless, after 
 having been properly thrown, it is knocked out by 
 another afterward played. The proper rule is that 
 each player should play his two quoits in succession, 
 and then be followed by an adversary; but in a 
 party of four it is usual for each party to have only 
 
 FIG. 3. 
 
 FIG. 4. 
 
 one quoit. When all the quoits are thrown the 
 score is taken by measuring the distance from the 
 hob to the nearest part of the nearest quoit, and the 
 side which has thrown best scores one or two, ac- 
 cording as his one or two quoits are better than any 
 one thrown by the other side. But every " ringer " 
 or quoit which falls over the hob and remains with 
 the hob inclosed within its ring counts two. 
 
 FIG. 5. 
 
 FIG. 6. 
 
 The distance between the two hobs is eighteen 
 yards for large-sized quoits and twenty-one for the 
 small size. The hobs (short iron pointed stakes) are 
 driven into the clay circle so as to stand out of the 
 ground at an angle of forty-five degrees toward each 
 other, and they must not project out of the ground 
 more than two and a half inches. In the regular 
 match-game rules for prizes " ringers " do not 
 count any more than do the quoits nearest the hob. 
 
 LAWN BILLIARDS. 
 
 The game of lawn billiards is a favorite one in 
 many places, and has the great advantage that it can 
 be played in a comparatively limited space. Indeed 
 a large lawn is unsuitable for the game, and if the 
 ground be of too great dimensions it will be better 
 to enclose a circular space. 
 
 The materials required are very simple. They 
 comprise only eight or ten balls of different colors, 
 
 a stick or cue with which to propel the balls, and a 
 revolving ring through which the balls are to pass. 
 The balls should be made of some hard and heavy 
 wood and be about a foot in circumference. Croquet 
 balls answer the purpose very well. The ring is 
 usually made of iron — though brass would perhaps 
 be better — and has a shank or neck. When it is to 
 be used, a large wooden peg is driven into the 
 ground, with the top a little below the surface, 
 and into it a hole is bored, large enough to receive 
 the shank of the ring and to let it revolve freely. 
 The cue is made of two parts, namely, a wooden 
 handle and a metal tip of rather a peculiar shape. 
 It is ring-shaped and is fixed to the handle at an 
 angle. This formation enables the ball to be played 
 better than if the cue and tip were in a line. Some- 
 times each player has a cue, but as a general rule 
 one cue only is required, and is handed round to the 
 players in succession. 
 
 The objects of the game are simple and the rules 
 scarcely less so. Each player endeavors to pass his 
 ball through the ring, and every time he does so he 
 scores one point. If his ball rolls through the ring 
 after striking another ball, he adds two to his score. 
 The ball must not be pushed through the ring 
 with the cue touching it, neither may it be thrown 
 through. After making a successful stroke, the 
 player does not go on with the game, as in croquet, 
 but gives way to the next player. 
 
 In this game there is more play than at first ap- 
 pears to be the case. If, for example, a player finds 
 the hoop turned edgewise to him, he can either 
 place his own ball so as to obstruct the next stroke 
 of the enemy, or, by dexterous play at the ring, can 
 turn it edgewise to the enemy next in succession. 
 Sometimes he will strike a ball belonging to his 
 own party so as to put it into position, or will 
 strike away the ball of an enemy who seems likely 
 to make a successful stroke. 
 
 A really good player will often contrive to pass 
 the ring even though it be turned almost edgewise to 
 him. If the ring be turned in the least to one side or 
 the other, he will play at it with a peculiar push of his 
 cue, and strike it a little on one side. If this is 
 properly done and with moderate force, the ring 
 spins round and catches the ball in its progress. 
 The effect of this sudden shock is that the ball vi- 
 brates backwards and forwards for a moment and 
 finally settles on the opposite side of the hoop. 
 
 Half the amusement of this game consists in hav- 
 ing a ring only just large enough to let the balls 
 pass through, and so neatly poised as to revolve 
 with a touch. The best plan for securing this latter 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 125 
 
 point is to have a metal socket let into the wooden 
 peg. If so, care must be taken that the socket be 
 brass if the ring is iron, and vice versa. Both shank 
 and socket must be kept well oiled. 
 
 RING-TOSS. 
 
 Ring-toss is a naval game, and forms a pleasant 
 pastime for the summer lawn or for the parlor in 
 the winter time. It is played with a target-post and 
 a number of light rings or small 
 hooks, ranging from five to ten 
 inches in diameter. The game 
 is to toss the rings so as to fall 
 on the target-post. The smaller 
 the rings the higher the count. 
 
 For the large rings one point 
 is scored ; for the next size 
 smaller two points, and for the 
 smallest size three points; fifty- 
 points being a full game. The 
 distance on a lawn which the 
 player stands from the target-post is twenty-five 
 feet. In the parlor it is fifteen feet. 
 
 THE BOOMERANG. 
 
 The boomerang is an Australian weapon, and, 
 like the sling-bow and in fact nearly all weapons, 
 had its origin in the chase and war. At first sight 
 it is an unpromising-looking weapon enough, being 
 merely a curved piece of flat wood of no very great 
 size or weight, and about as insignificant-looking 
 an object as could well be supposed. But in the 
 hands of the Australian black this simple piece of 
 flat wood can be made to perform the most marvel- 
 lous feats. It rushes through the air like a " thing of 
 life ; " at will it can be made to skim the ground 
 like a swallow, or soar into the air like a hawk ; to 
 strike a distant enemy, or to return in a wide grace- 
 ful curve till it drops harmlessly against his own 
 feet. 
 
 Against this strange weapon no trunk of tree or 
 huge mass of rock affords shelter ; the boomerang 
 rushing through the air, past and beyond the con- 
 cealed enemy, comes whirling back again with but 
 little abated force and smites him from the rear. 
 With spear and boomerang the native Australian 
 
 must indeed be a dangerous foe, and one not to be 
 despised even by the white man with his still more 
 deadly rifle and revolver. 
 
 Boys should not expect to make anything more 
 than a plaything out of this interesting weapon ; 
 they can neither afford the time nor get the teach- 
 ing necessary for a thorough mastery of it. To the 
 Australian aborigine the skilful use of the boom- 
 erang forms a great part of the business of his life, 
 and is, indeed, one of the conditions on which he 
 lives ; but to the white man it can only be one out 
 of many aids to relaxation, and he therefore cannot 
 any more hope to acquire great command over this 
 extraordinary missile — perhaps the most difficult to 
 wield successfully that the ingenuity of man has 
 ever produced — than he can hope to rival the Jap- 
 anese jugglers in their wondrous performances with 
 tops and paper butterflies. 
 
 Should any readers of this volume become own- 
 ers of a boomerang, they must be very careful at 
 first in experimenting with it, for they will find that 
 it will have a tendency to fly off from its course in 
 the most unforeseen manner and make its way into 
 all sorts of unexpected places, generally being ex- 
 ceedingly perverse in going exactly where it is least 
 wanted to go. A large open field to practise in, 
 with not more than one or two companions, will be 
 found the best for safety. 
 
 In the act of throwing, the boomerang is grasped 
 firmly by the end, which is slightly smoothed off for 
 the hand, and, as it leaves the hand, is made to gy- 
 rate or revolve on its centre by a quick turn of the 
 wrist ; it is thrown, of course, edgewise, with the 
 concave side foremost and the flat side downwards. 
 
 THROWING THE JAVELIN. 
 
 Throwing the javelin is a very interesting 
 amusement, and gives strength to the arm and ex- 
 actness to the eye. In playing it a square target must 
 be procured, made of thick wood, about four feet in 
 diameter, and on which should be marked concen- 
 tric circles, similar to those on a target in archery. 
 This should be well supported behind by two stout 
 back-pieces, resting in the ground, so as to prevent 
 the target from being easily overturned. The circles 
 may be several in number. The centre should be 
 black, and about six inches in diameter, and count 
 ten ; the second circle should be red, and count flve ; 
 and the third should be light blue, and count three. 
 
126 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 The other parts of the target to count as may be 
 agreed. The javeHns should consist of poles of ash 
 or fir, about an inch and a half in diameter, and 
 should be five feet six inches in length. They should 
 have a spike in one end, which should be surrounded 
 with a rim of iron; the spike should be about two 
 inches long, thick and strong, so as to enable it to 
 become fixed in the target without splitting it. The 
 game may be played by any number of boys, and is 
 commenced as follows : 
 
 One player takes a javelin in his right hand, and 
 walking to a distance from the target, previously 
 agreed upon by the players, he poises his javelin, by 
 holding it in the hollow of his hand, between the ball 
 of the thumb and the fleshy part at the side, and 
 his elbow is at the same time bent, and his arm ele- 
 vated so that his hand is a little above his ear, the 
 javelin being at the same time nicely balanced with 
 the small fingers, touching it so as to d irect its course. 
 It is then launched forward at the target, and, if prop- 
 erly poised, directed and thrown, will go to it in a 
 direct line. The point at which it strikes the tar- 
 get is then marked, and then the other players fol- 
 low in the same way for twelve times in succession, 
 the person who scores the most marks being the 
 victor. 
 
 The javelin will fly better and straighter if a ro- 
 tary movement is communicated to it by a slight 
 pull of the little finger as it leaves the hand. When 
 some skill has been obtained in darting, blunt jave- 
 lins with padded ends should be procured, and the 
 players should accustom themselves to avoid, parry 
 or catch a javelin thrown at them. When they can do 
 so with certainty they may storm a fort. The best 
 fort is a hedge with gaps. The players divide into 
 two parties, one defending and the other attacking. 
 Each player should be furnished with three javelins 
 at least, well padded and nicely balanced. The art 
 of catching and returning a javelin is exceedingly 
 useful in this same. 
 
 LES GRACES. 
 
 The game of les graces derives its name from the 
 graceful attitudes into which it throws the body if 
 properly played. Unfortunately, when badly played, 
 it is about as ungraceful a proceeding as can be 
 imagined. 
 
 The materials for the amusement consist simply 
 of a couple of slender sticks for each player and 
 two or more hoops of different sizes. The players 
 stand at some distance from each other, and the 
 
 object of the game is to throw the hoops back- 
 wards and forwards, catching and throwing them 
 by means of the sticks. 
 
 To throw the hoop properly it should be hung 
 on the sticks and the sticks then crossed to pre- 
 vent it from falling off. Hold the sticks, with their 
 points downwards, on the left side of the body, the 
 left hand grasping one stick firmly, while the right 
 hand holds the other loosely between the finger and 
 thumb. Now raise the arms, point the left-hand 
 stick in the direction which the hoop is meant to 
 take and with the right-hand stick throw the hoop, 
 gliding at the same time the right-hand stick over 
 the other. 
 
 These movements should be performed as one 
 without any pause between them ; and if they are 
 properly done, the hoop revolves rapidly so as to 
 keep it steady as it flies through the air. Unless 
 this be done, it wabbles, or even turns over and 
 over, in either of which cases the player to whom it 
 is thrown can scarcely have a chance of catching it. 
 
 The hoop should be thrown tolerably high and 
 ought to be sent with such accuracy that, if it were 
 not stopped, it would fall on the head of the second 
 player. 
 
 Catching the hoop ought to be done with both 
 sticks slightly crossed, unless it be flung much to 
 the right or left, when, of course, a single stick 
 must be employed. Sometimes an unskilful player 
 flings the hoop so that it presents its edge to the 
 catcher. Even in this case an expert player will 
 catch it by giving the lower edge a little tap with 
 one stick, the effect of which will be to make the 
 hoop fall over the stick. 
 
 The beginner is particularly warned against 
 crossing the sticks horizontally in front of his face, 
 sticking out his elbows on a level with his ears and 
 throwing the hoop by flinging both arms apart. In 
 this mode of throwing there is neither ease, grace 
 nor certainty. , A properly thrown hoop ought to 
 look quite steady as it passes through the air and to 
 be thrown so accurately that there is no difficulty 
 in catching it. 
 
 With every good set of les graces implements 
 there should be two hoops of a foot in diameter and 
 two of seven inches. The test of good play is to 
 exchange the hoops, throwing them so that the 
 small hoop passes through the large one. This 
 feat looks rather formidable, but every good player 
 can perform it if he has a steady partner whom he 
 can trust. When the hoops are thus crossed the 
 larger hoop should be thrown first, so that aim may 
 be taken with the smaller one. 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 127 
 
 BATTLEDORE AND SHUTTLE- 
 COCK. 
 
 Battledore and shuttlecock is a game suitable 
 for the playground, the lawn or the parlor, but it is 
 best played on a lawn. The materials for the game 
 can be obtained at a sporting-goods store; but a 
 common battledore can be readily made with a 
 hickory stick and a piece of hoop, and a shuttlecock 
 with a cork and a few short feathers. The form 
 of the battledore and shuttlecock is as follows : 
 
 v^i^j - ^jt.1, j^-. jjijtiia 
 
 BATTLEDORE. 
 
 SHUTTLECOCK. 
 
 The game is played by two players, each having 
 a battledore, and each bats the shuttlecock from 
 one to the other ; the player failing to return it when 
 it is batted to him within possible reach losing a 
 point in the game. A game consists of twenty 
 points, and the best two out of three games gains 
 the match. 
 
 THE SLING. 
 
 The sling was much used as a weapon in ancient 
 warfare, and was held in such esteem that it long 
 kept its place even with the bow. As time passed 
 on, however, it fell into gradual disuse ; and, long 
 before the time that the bow gave way to fire-arms, 
 the sling had come to be regarded as little more 
 than a toy. 
 
 It must not be supposed that it was failure in ac- 
 curacy that brought the sling into disfavor as a 
 military weapon. It is not worth any one's while 
 nowadays to devote the necessary time and labor 
 to acquire proficiency in its use ; though, even at 
 the present time, there would be no difficulty in 
 finding many boys who would be by no means de- 
 sirable antagonists at fifty yards or so. But in past 
 times, where a man's life and living depended on 
 his skill in slinging — when as a child he had to earn 
 his meals before eating them — then the full capabili- 
 ties of the sling were brought out, and even the bow 
 hardly over-matched it in absolute accuracy. 
 
 Its real defects as a military weapon were the 
 want of penetrative power in the missile, especially 
 against armor, and, more particularly, the incon- 
 venient extent of space each slinger required to 
 work in, and the impossibility of discharging the 
 
 missiles from anywhere but the front rank. It was 
 the bow's superiority in these respects, rather than 
 its greater accuracy, that drove the sling out of the 
 field. 
 
 The simplest form of sling is an oval piece of 
 leather with a slit in the middle and a stout string 
 fastened at each end ; one of these strings is looped, 
 the other plain. In using the sling, a smooth stone 
 is put into the leather, the slit holding it in its 
 place ; the slinger inserts his middle finger in the 
 loop of the one string, grasping it at the same time 
 firmly in his hand, and holding the other string se- 
 curely, and yet so that he can easily let it slip, whirls- 
 the whole swiftly round his head two or three times 
 and then, at the right moment, lets fly the loose 
 string. The pocket of the sling immediately opens 
 and the stone is thrown out with extraordinary 
 swiftness. 
 
 If a more solid and reliable sling is required, it 
 should be made entirely of leather, thongs and all, 
 every detail being carefully adjusted to the missile 
 it is intended to use. The missile, too, if anything 
 like accuracy is aimed at, should be most carefully 
 constructed. Nothing great can be done with 
 stones; they are too uncertain in weight and shape. 
 Clay balls, made as much as possible of equal weight 
 and size, and baked in the ashes, are very service- 
 able ; but the very best things of all are good-sized 
 leaden bullets. They travel farther and faster and 
 are more reliable than any other procurable missile. 
 They have only one drawback — their expense. The 
 slinger might keep a stock of both — clay for ordinary 
 occasions, lead for special service ; but, as far as 
 possible, he should avoid variety of ammunition if 
 he wishes to attain any high degree of skill. 
 
 Armed with a good sling and a store of am- 
 munition, a boy, if his taste lies that way, may do 
 considerably more execution as a sportsman than 
 many an older person with pistol or rifle. And his 
 sling has this advantage over fire-arms, that it can- 
 not possibly do any hurt to him, or, with ordinary 
 care, to any one else. It never goes off by accident 
 or when he " did not know it was loaded." 
 
 THE CLEFT-STICK. 
 
 Another variation of the sling is the cleft-stick. 
 It is made by taking a piece of tough wood (ash is 
 perhaps the best), about thirty inches in length and 
 three-quarters of an inch in thickness, tapering, if 
 possible, a little towards one end ; and splitting 
 
128 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 with a sharp knife the smaller end down to a depth 
 of, say, four inches. Care should be taken to do 
 this exactly in the middle. Then whip it round 
 strongly with waxed thread, beginning about two 
 and a half inches from the end and working down- 
 wards to a point a little below where the split ends. 
 The object of thus binding it is to prevent the split 
 from extending further. 
 
 Now take a smooth flat pebble, force it well into 
 the cleft or slit, hold the stick by the butt-end and 
 throw. The stone will fly out as if from a leathern 
 sling ; in fact the only difference between the two 
 is that one is rigid and the other flexible. At first 
 one needs to be careful how he throws ; he should 
 be sure that no one is within hitting distance, for 
 until the right knack is acquired the stone is apt to 
 ■fly about in a very independent manner. It would 
 be as well also to avoid the neighborhood of glass 
 when experimenting for the first time with this 
 rather " offensive " weapon. 
 
 The stone is made to leave the stick at the right 
 moment by a kind of jerk, which will soon come of 
 itself to a boy of any natural aptitude but which 
 cannot well be described on paper. 
 
 In places where clay is tolerably abundant, a sim- 
 ilar effect may be produced by kneading lumps of 
 clay round the top of a pliant stick and throwing 
 them in the same manner as the stone is hurled 
 from a cleft-stick. These clay lumps when they 
 strike against anything — a tree or a post — flatten 
 out and adhere to it with great tenacity. 
 
 Sometimes boys get up a battle of clay lumps ; 
 but the two parties should always stand at a con- 
 siderable distance from each other, forty or fifty 
 yards at the least. Even at that distance a blow 
 from a clay lump in the face will often leave a deep 
 red mark as a memento of its visit, and not even 
 the clothes will afford perfect protection from the 
 sting of these soft missiles. 
 
 THE PEA-SHOOTER AND 
 PUTTY-BLOWER. 
 
 In America the putty-blower and in England the 
 pea-shooter have long been favorites with boys and 
 constitute weapons which furnish capital sport with- 
 out often doing much damage. The principle of 
 ■each instrument is the same : a tube made of tin 
 or other metal through which the missile, a lump 
 of putty or a pea, is blown against the object aimed 
 at. The diameter of the shooter should be about 
 
 the size of that of an average pea, as, if it were 
 much larger, the pea would not be propelled with 
 sufficient force to go any great distance or to strike 
 the object as smartly as desired. The blower can 
 be whatever size is preferable as the softness of the 
 putty permits of the pellets being made to fit the 
 tube. Either implement can be quickly made by 
 a tinsmith. 
 
 Pea-shooters have one great advantage over put- 
 ty-blowers ; and that is that their owners can fill 
 their mouths with missiles and blow off one after 
 the other, or even a number at a time, as fast as 
 they please ; whereas putty-blowers need to be re- 
 loaded after every shot, it not being very feasible to 
 fill the mouth with putty in advance of beginning 
 operations. 
 
 There are numberless ways of getting fun out of 
 either blowers or shooters. One of the best is to 
 organize the boys into two parties of about equal 
 strength and have a regular pitched battle. For 
 this purpose pease make better missiles than putty, 
 as they can be shot much more rapidly. In using 
 them, however, more execution will generally be 
 accomplished by a steady fire of single pease than 
 by a furious discharge of volleys. The former 
 method allows opportunity for a careful aim and for 
 searching out the weak spots of the enemy's de- 
 fence, and attacking him there with unrelenting 
 perseverance, which cannot be done in the latter 
 case. Volleying is useful only when at close quarters 
 with your opponents. Then at such range that you 
 cannot miss, a blast of pease is often effective in 
 driving them back. 
 
 THE CATAPULT. 
 
 The catapult is a variation of the ordinary sling, 
 but it throws a missile with a far higher degree of 
 accuracy and with much greater force than the sim- 
 pler implement. Indeed, it may be fairly said to 
 rank next to fire-arms in its destructive capabilities, 
 and it possesses this advantage over the gun and 
 pistol that it is much less conspicuous and is abso- 
 lutely noiseless, as well as being perfectly harmless 
 to its possessor. 
 
 Catapults can be purchased at most toy-stores, 
 but quite as efficient ones can be made at home with 
 very little trouble. Get a forked stick, shaped like 
 the letter Y, about six or seven inches in length, 
 the prongs about three inches apart. To the ex- 
 tremity of each of these prongs lash securely a strip 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 129 
 
 of india-rubber band or spring about six inches 
 long and attach the loose ends of these springs to 
 an oval piece of soft leather, one and a half inches 
 long by an inch in width, whipping them carefully 
 and strongly for a distance of nearly an inch. This 
 oval forms a kind of pocket in which to place a 
 missile. 
 
 The most useful ammunition is No. i shot ; clay 
 marbles do very well, and even gravel-stones at a 
 pinch may be made to do good service ; but the 
 first-named are preferable in every way — for range, 
 accuracy, penetration and portability. They can 
 be fired in volleys, moreover, when occasion re- 
 quires, which the others cannot, on account of their 
 size. 
 
 In using the catapult, the lower end of the forked 
 stick is firmly held in the left hand and the oval 
 piece of leather (containing the missile) is drawn 
 back as far as possible with the right hand and 
 then sharply let go. A little practice will show 
 that it is possible to secure a most excellent aim in 
 doing this, so as to send the missile straight at the 
 desired object. 
 
 PRISONER'S BASE. 
 
 Prisoner's base is one of the best of the running 
 class of games, and it is played as follows: Sides 
 of from six to ten players are chosen from among 
 the swiftest runners of the crowd. Two of the 
 best players choose sides, after which the " home " 
 and " prison " bases are marked out. These are 
 laid out by drawing a line ten or a dozen yards from 
 a wall, and dividing the inclosed space into two 
 equal portions, each of which ought to be large 
 enough to contain all the players on one side. At 
 some distance (from a hundred to two hundred 
 feet) in front of these bases, two more spaces must 
 be marked out for prisons, the prison of one party 
 being opposite the home base of the other. 
 
 The game is commenced by a player from one 
 side called the "leader" running out of his base 
 toward the prisons ; when he has got about half 
 way he calls out " chase," at which signal one of the 
 opposite party rushes from his base and endeavors 
 to catch him ; a partner of the first player next 
 dashes out to capture the second, and so on, both 
 sides sending out as many of their partners as they 
 please, to touch or take their opponents. Each 
 player strives to overtake and touch any one of the 
 opposite side who quitted his base before he did, as 
 he must not touch any one who started after him. 
 
 although they may, if they can, touch him before he 
 gets back to his own base ; but if a player has taken 
 a prisoner he cannot be touched when he makes his 
 way back to his base again. It is the rule that a 
 player may touch only one of his adversaries every 
 time he leaves his base, and every prisoner must be 
 taken to the prison of the party opposed to him, 
 where he remains until one of his partners can 
 manage to touch him. It is to be borne in mind 
 that he who comes to rescue the captive must have 
 started from his base after the other has been taken, 
 and the prisoner and his liberator are not allowed 
 to touch any one, or to be touched on their return 
 home. The victors are those who can contrive to 
 make all their opponents prisoners. The game may 
 also be decided by one player taking possession of 
 the base belonging to his opponents when they are 
 all out ; it is therefore prudent to leave some one in 
 charge of each base. 
 
 TIP-CAT. 
 
 Tip-cat is played with a light stick and a piece 
 of wood called a " cat " shaped as in the appended 
 cut. When the cat is laid upon the ground, the 
 player with his stick tips it at one end by a smart 
 stroke, which causes it to rise in the air, high 
 enough for him to strike it as it falls, in the same 
 manner as he would a ball. The cat should not 
 exceed five inches in length or an inch and a half in 
 diameter, and should be made of light wood. The 
 game is played by two boys who toss for innings. 
 Before playing, a small ring is marked out on 
 
 the ground, and at about twelve feet distance a 
 boundary line is drawn. The first player stands 
 close to the ring, and is provided with a stick about 
 two feet long ; his opponent stands at the bounds 
 and pitches the cat at the ring. Should the cat 
 alight in the ring the first player is out ; should it 
 fall on the line he is allowed one tip, but should it 
 fall anywhere outside the ring he is entitled to take 
 three tips. If the first player be not pitched out, 
 he now proceeds to " tip the cat," that is, he taps 
 one end of it with his stick, and as it jumps in the 
 air he endeavors to strike it as far as possible. 
 When he has taken his tips he roughly estimates 
 
I30 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 the distance he has struck the cat, and offers his op- 
 ponent a certain number of jumps. If the out-play- 
 er, starting from the point where the cat lies, can 
 reach the ring in the right number of jumps, he puts 
 the first player out, but if he cannot accomplish the 
 task, his opponent counts the number as so many 
 towards the game, which may be fifty or a hundred 
 according to agreement. If the out-player can 
 catch the cat as it is flying he puts his opponent 
 out. The in-player having taken his tips, may also 
 guess at the probable number of lengths of his stick 
 between the cat and the ring and calls out the num- 
 ber ; if, on measurement, by means of the stick, the 
 distance is found to exceed the number called, he 
 is out ; if, on the contrary, it is within, he scores the 
 number toward his game. 
 
 LEAP-FROG. 
 
 Leap-frog will be best understood by supposing 
 that eight boys are playing at it. Seven of them 
 stand in a row, about eighteen feet apart, with 
 their sides to the leapers, hands on their knees, 
 body doubled, and head bent down, as shown in 
 Fig. I. The eighth player then takes a short run, 
 and placing his hands on the back of the first play- 
 er, leaps over him, then over the second and in like 
 
 FIG. I. 
 
 FIG. 2. 
 
 manner over all the other players, one after the 
 other, and when he has done so, he places himself 
 down in the line, in the proper position, and at a 
 proper distance from the last player; the first over 
 whom he jumped rises immediately he has passed, 
 and follows him over the second, third, etc., who all 
 rise in succession, and leap in their turns; and 
 after they have successively jumped over the last 
 players, they place themselves down in the line, as 
 before described ; the game continues during pleas- 
 ure. Some players stand with their backs to the 
 
 leapers, as in Fig. 2, instead of their sides ; the 
 mode is quite optional, although in some places it 
 is usual to compel those who can jump over the 
 head, to do so. 
 
 FOLLOW MY LEADER. 
 
 A BOLD, active boy' should be selected as leader, 
 and all the other players must range themselves in 
 a line behind him ; he commences the game by 
 jumping, running, hopping or getting over any ob- 
 stacle that may present itself, and then continues 
 on his course, scrambling over everything, and vary- 
 ing his actions as much as possible ; all his follow- 
 ers must, according to the rules of the game, dO' 
 exactly as he does. If he jumps over a ditch, they 
 must clear it ; if over a gate, they must do that also ; 
 and in everything follow or imitate him as closely 
 as possible. If any one of them fails in performing 
 the tasks, he must take his place behind all the 
 rest, until some other player makes a blunder, and 
 in his turn goes last. The game is continued dur- 
 ing the leader's pleasure. 
 
 HOP SCOTCH. 
 
 The essentials of the game of hop scotch are a 
 piece of level ground or an even pavement on which 
 to mark out the lines of the field of play, which is 
 formed as in the following diagram. 
 
 When the field is marked out, the players who 
 are to compete each try to toss their " tile " — a piece 
 of flat stone or wood — into the half circle _ 
 
 at the top of the field. The one who 
 succeeds leads off in the game, the others 
 following in turn. The player who can 
 manage to pitch into the half circle 
 takes the first innings, and if two or 
 more pitch in, they are "ties," and must 
 pitch again. The winner begins, stand- 
 ing at " home," by throwing his piece of 
 tile into the division marked i ; he then 
 hops into the space, and kicks the tile 
 out to " home ; " he next throws the tile into 2, 
 hops into I, then into 2, and kicks it out as before; 
 he repeats this through the several numbers till 
 he comes to 8, which is called a resting-bed ; he is 
 here permitted, after hopping through the previous 
 seven spaces, to put his feet in the beds marked 
 
 
 
 
 «■:_] 
 
 10 
 
 
 ^H 
 
 9 1 
 
 > 
 
 a 
 
 X 
 
 5 
 
 y 
 < 
 
 4 1 
 
 i. 
 
 - 
 
 « 
 
 ^ \ 
 
 HOME. 
 
LEAP FROG. 
 
132 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 6 and 7, and rest himself ; but he must of course 
 resume hopping before he kicks the tile out ; he 
 then passes through the beds 9, 10, 11, as before 
 directed ; 12 is another resting-bed, in which he 
 may put down both feet, and when he comes to 
 the half circle he must kick the tile out with such 
 force as to send it through all the other beds at 
 one kick ; it is not necessary to send the tile out 
 so forcibly from any of the other beds, the play- 
 ers being allowed to use as many kicks as they 
 please. The other rules of the game are the follow- 
 ing: If the player throws the tile into the wrong 
 number, or if it rests on one of the chalked lines, 
 either when he has endeavored to pitch it into a 
 bed, or when he is kicking it out, he loses his in- 
 nings ; he loses his innings also if he places both 
 feet down in any other than a resting-bed, or if he, 
 hopping out, puts his foot on a line, or kicks the 
 tile over the side lines. 
 
 DUCK AND DRAKE. 
 
 Duck and drake requires at least three players, but 
 its interest is considerably increased when there are 
 six or eight. A large stone called " the base," hav- 
 ing a tolerably flat top, is placed on the ground, and 
 "home" is marked off about twelve feet from it. 
 Each player being provided with a stone called a 
 duck about double the size of a base-ball, the game 
 is commenced by pitching for " drake " — that is, by 
 all standing at the home and throwing their stones 
 or ducks in succession at the base. The player 
 whose duck falls or rolls farthest from it becomes 
 " drake " and must place his stone on the top of 
 the base. The other players are allowed to take 
 up their ducks and go to the home unmolested 
 while " drake " is placing his stone down ; they then 
 throw their ducks, one after the other, at it, and en- 
 deavor to knock it off the base. Drake must re- 
 place his stone whenever it is knocked off, and the 
 throwers must pick up their ducks and endeavor to 
 run home while he is so engaged. Should the 
 duck remain on after four or five have thrown at it, 
 the stones must rest where they fell, until some play- 
 er more skilful than the others knocks off the duck, 
 and so gives the throwers a chance of getting home. 
 If drake can touch one of the throwers as he is run- 
 ning home with his duck in his hand, the one so 
 touched becomes drake. When the duck is knocked 
 off by any player, it must be instantly replaced, as 
 drake cannot touch any one while it is off the base. 
 
 When a thrower's duck falls and lies before the 
 base drake may touch him if he can, even before 
 he picks up his duck. When drake succeeds in 
 touching a thrower, he must run to the base and 
 quickly remove his duck ; if he has time, he should 
 tap the base twice with his duck, and call out 
 " double duck ! " as he may then walk home without 
 fear of being touched by the boy whom he has just 
 made drake. Should all the players have thrown 
 without being able to knock the duck off, it is fre- 
 quently proposed by some of them to take either a 
 "heeler," a "sling" or a" jump" toward home, in 
 order that they may have a chance of reaching it. 
 Drake may refuse or assent to these proposals at 
 his option. The " heeler " is performed by the 
 player kicking his duck backward toward home ; 
 the "sling" by placing the duck on the middle of 
 the right foot, and slinging it as far in the direc- 
 tion of home as possible; and the "jump" by 
 placing the duck between the feet, and holding it in 
 that manner while a jump is taken, the jumper let- 
 ting the stone go as he alights, so that it may roll 
 forward. If the duck is so far from home that one 
 sling, jump or heeler will not suffice, two or more 
 of each may be taken, provided of course that drake 
 allows them. If the player does not get his duck 
 home in the number of slings, jumps or heelers 
 agreed on, he becomes drake. Duck and drake is 
 one of the liveliest of games, but we must caution 
 boys against playing roughly or carelessly at it, as 
 they may through negligence do one another much 
 harm, on account of the weight of the stones and 
 the force with which they must be thrown. 
 
 TAG. 
 
 Any number of boys or girls can play tag. One 
 of the players volunteers to be " tag " or else he is 
 chosen to fill that office by lot. Tag then endeav- 
 ors to touch one of the others as they run in all di- 
 rections to avoid him. When a player is touched 
 he becomes " tag," and in his turn strives to touch 
 one of the others. When " tag " succeeds in touch- 
 ing another, he cries " no tag," which signifies that 
 the player so touched must not touch the player 
 who touched him, until he has chased and touched 
 somebody else. 
 
 The game is sometime varied by requiring " tag " 
 to chase one player until another runs across his 
 path, between him and the boy pursued, upon which 
 tag must immediately run after the one who crossed. 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 133 
 
 until some other crossing between them must in his 
 turn be followed ; in this way the game continues 
 until one is touched, who takes the office of tag 
 and gives chase to the others. This is called " cross- 
 tag." 
 
 Another variation is granting safety to those 
 pursued when they touch either wood or iron, the 
 rule being that " tag " must touch them as they 
 run from one piece of wood or iron to another. 
 
 I SPY THE WOLF. 
 
 In the game of " I spy the wolf " the players are 
 divided into two equal parties, one of which is given 
 a certain length of time to hide themselves, the oth- 
 er party remaining meanwhile at home. As soon as 
 this time has expired or as soon as one of the out- 
 players cries " whoop ! " the seekers leave home to 
 look for them. When one of the hiders is dis- 
 covered, the finder shouts out, " I spy the wolf," 
 and he and his companions rush back home, to 
 escape being touched. If the hiders catch a certain 
 number of the seekers before they can return home, 
 they hide again ; if not the seekers take their turn. 
 
 HIDE AND SEEK, OR WHOOP. 
 
 In hide and seek one player takes his station 
 at a spot called the " home," while the others go to 
 seek out various hiding-places ; when all are ready, 
 one of them — the most distant from home — calls 
 out " Whoop ! " on which the player at " home " 
 goes in search of the hiders, and endeavors to 
 touch one of them as they run back to " home ; " 
 if he can do so, the one caught takes his place at 
 the " home," while he joins the out-players. But if 
 all reach home safely without being touched then 
 the same player has to seek for the rest when they 
 hide again. 
 
 JINGLE-RING. 
 
 Jingle-ring is a lively out-door variation of blind- 
 man's buff. It is played to best advantage on a 
 grass-plot encircled with a roped boundary. The 
 players rarely exceed ten. All of these, except one 
 
 of the most active, who is the " jingler," have their 
 eyes blindfolded with handkerchiefs. The jing- 
 ler holds a small bell in his hand, which he is 
 obliged to keep ringing incessantly so long as the 
 play continues, which is commonly about twenty 
 minutes. The business of the jingler is to elude the 
 pursuit of his blindfolded companions, who follow 
 him by the sound of the bell, in all directions, and 
 sometimes oblige him to exert his utmost abilities 
 to effect his escape, which must be done within the 
 boundaries of the rope, for the laws of the sport 
 forbid him to pass beyond it. If he be caught in 
 the time allotted for the continuance of the game, 
 the person who caught him wins the match ; if, on 
 the contrary, they are not able to take him he is 
 proclaimed the winner. 
 
 BOUND HANDS. 
 
 Bound hands is a spirited game, and is peculiar- 
 ly adapted for wintry weather. It is played by two 
 parties, one — the inners — being called "Jacks," and 
 the other — the outers — " Johnnies." A line should 
 be made on the ground at about four feet from a 
 wall, and running parallel with it ; within this 
 bound one of the players takes his station with his 
 hands clasped together, and, after calling out, 
 " Johnnies, look out," he jumps out, runs after and 
 strives to overtake and touch one of the others, 
 without dividing his hands ; if he is successful in 
 his attempt, they both return to the bounds, where 
 they join hands, and after repeating the warning 
 rush out again, and each endeavors to touch an op- 
 ponent ; if they can achieve this, they all return and 
 join hands as before. When they sally forth again, 
 the outside players only try to touch, and of course 
 every one they touch returns to " bounds " with 
 them, and joins in the line. Whenever an out- 
 player is touched, the Jacks let go their hands and 
 scamper back to " bounds " as fast as their legs will 
 carry them, as the out-players can demand to be 
 carried home by the Jacks if they can catch them 
 when the line is broken. The out-players are al- 
 lowed to attack the line in the rear, in order to com- 
 pel the poor widdies to let go their hands. The 
 game may be kept up until all the out-players are 
 caught. Sometimes the one who commences the 
 game is allowed his liberty as soon as he has caught 
 four. As a matter of course, no out-player can be 
 touched when the Ime is broken. 
 
134 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 BULL IN THE RING. 
 
 Bull in the ring can be played by any number 
 of boys, and is commenced by their joining hands 
 and forming a ring, having enclosed some boy in 
 the middle, who is the bull. It is the bull's part to 
 make a rush, break through the ring, and escape, 
 and the part of the boys who form the ring to hold 
 their hands so fast together that he cannot break 
 their hold. Before making a rush the bull must cry 
 " boo " to give warning, so that the boys may grasp 
 their hands more tightly. The whole ring gener- 
 ally replies to the bull's challenge by crying " boo " 
 all together. When the bull breaks through the ring 
 he is pursued until captured, and the boy who seizes 
 him first is " bull " when they return. A good 
 " bull " will lead them a pretty dance, clearing 
 hedges and ditches, and if he gets back and touches 
 some mark agreed upon, near to where he broke 
 through the ring, he is " bull " again. 
 
 SLING THE MONKEY. 
 
 Sling the monkey is a favorite game on ship- 
 Isoard, but it can be played just as well in the coun- 
 try wherever there are trees. One player, who is 
 chosen by lot, takes the part of the monkey and is 
 fastened to a tolerably high branch of a tree by a 
 strong cord knotted in a bowline loop and passed 
 round his waist. The other players then baste the 
 monkey with knotted handkercief s, and he, similar- 
 
 ly armed, endeavors to retaliate. If he succeeds in 
 striking one of them, he is at once released and the 
 other takes his place as monkey. He must make 
 haste in doing it, or he may be basted until he is 
 fairly in the loop. With boys that do not mind a 
 little buffeting this game becomes exceedingly live- 
 ly : an active monkey cannot safely be approached 
 without considerable difficulty and of course gives 
 much more life to the game. 
 
 The cord should be just long enough to enable 
 the monkey to reach the ground comfortably un- 
 der the branch. Half the fun of the game consists 
 in ^oXuslXy slinging the monkey, one of whose most 
 effective ruses is to throw himself forward on the 
 rope, pretend to start off in one direction and then 
 come back with an unexpected swing in the other. 
 
 BASTE THE BEAR. 
 
 Basting the bear is a very similar amusement to 
 sling the monkey. The players should toss up for 
 the first bear, who kneels on the ground within a 
 circle marked out for the purpose ; each bear may 
 select his own master, whose office it is to hold him 
 by a rope, and use his utmost efforts to touch one 
 
 of the other players, as they try to thrash the bear 
 with their handkerchiefs knotted and twisted very 
 tightly. If the bear's master can touch one of the 
 assailants without dragging the bear out of the ring, 
 or letting go the rope, the boy touched becomes 
 bear, selects his keeper as before mentioned, and 
 the sport is continued. 
 
 DROPPING THE HANDKER- 
 CHIEF. 
 
 For the game of " dropping the handkerchief " 
 a tolerably large ring should be formed by several 
 boys standing in a circle and joining hands ; anoth- 
 er boy, who stands out, when all are ready walks 
 round outside the ring, drops a handkerchief behind 
 one of the players, and immediately runs off; he is 
 instantly followed by the one behind whom he 
 dropped the handkerchief, and who must track him 
 in all his windings in and out, under the arms of 
 the boys in the ring, who elevate them for the pur- 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 ns 
 
 pose. Should the pursuer be able to touch the 
 pursued before the latter passes the spot where he 
 dropped the handkerchief, the former takes the 
 handkerchief in his turn, and the latter joins hands 
 in the circle. If the pursued party escapes being 
 touched, however, he again takes the handkerchief 
 and drops it behind another boy. 
 
 DRAWING THE OVEN. 
 
 In the game of drawing the oven several players 
 seat themselves on the ground, in a line, one behind 
 the other, and clasp each other round the waist; 
 two players then take hold of the foremost sitter by 
 
 both his hands, as represented above, and endeavor 
 to detach him from the line by pulling away vigor- 
 ously. When they have succeeded in doing this, 
 they take hold of the second sitter in the same 
 manner, and so continue " drawing the oven," until 
 they have drawn all the players from the ground. 
 
 FLY THE GARTER. 
 
 The game of " fly the garter " is played by first 
 chalking or marking a line, or, as it is usually 
 termed, " a garter," on the ground ; on this line one 
 of the players must place himself and bend down as 
 in leap-frog, while the other players in rotation 
 leap over him, the last one as he flies over calling 
 out " Foot it." If he should fail in giving this 
 notice, he is out, and must take the other boy's 
 place at the garter. The boy, immediately the word 
 is given, rises, and places his right heel close to the 
 middle of the left foot ; he next moves the left 
 forwards and places that heel close up to the toes 
 of his right foot and bends down as before. This 
 movement is called a " step," and is repeated three 
 times. The other players ' should fly from the gar- 
 
 ter each time a step is made and the last player must 
 invariably call out "Foot it" as he leaps over. 
 After making the three " steps," the player giving 
 the back takes a short run, and, from the spot 
 where he made his last step to, jumps as far forwards 
 as he possibly can, and bends down again ; the 
 others jump from the garter and then fly over. 
 Should any of the players be unable to jump easily 
 over the one giving the back, but rather slide down 
 upon, or ride on. him, the player so failing must 
 take the other's place at the garter, and the game 
 be begun again ; if, also, through the impetus ac- 
 quired in taking the jump from the garter, a play- 
 er should happen to place his hands on the back 
 of the player bending down, and then withdraw 
 them in order to take the spring over, he is out, 
 and must take his turn at the garter. It is usual, 
 in some places, for the boy giving the back to take 
 a hop, step and a jump after he has footed it three 
 times, the other players doing the same, and then 
 flying over. 
 
 SPANISH FLY. 
 
 Spanish fly is capable of being varied to any ex- 
 tent by an ingenious boy, but it is generally played 
 in the following way : One boy, selected by chance, 
 sets a back, as in " fly the garter," and another is 
 chosen leader. The game is commenced by the lead- 
 er leaping over the one who gives the back, and the 
 other players follow in succession ; the leader then 
 leaps back, and the others follow ; then they all go 
 over in a cross direction, and return, making, in 
 all, four different ways. The leader then takes his 
 cap in both hands, and leaves it on the boy's back 
 while he is " overing," and his followers perform 
 the same trick ; in returning, the last man takes the 
 lead, and removes his cap without disturbing the 
 others, and each boy does the same ; this trick is 
 repeated in a cross direction. The next trick is 
 throwing up the cap just before overing, and catch- 
 ing it before it falls ; the next, reversing the cap on 
 the head, and so balancing it while overing, without 
 ever touching it with the hands ; both tricks must 
 be performed while leaping the four different ways. 
 The leader, with his cap still balanced, now overs, 
 and allows his cap to drop on the opposite side ; 
 the others do likewise, but they must be careful 
 not to let their caps touch the others, nor to let 
 their feet touch any of the caps in alighting ; the 
 leader now stoops down, picks up his cap with his 
 
136 
 
 OUT- DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 teeth and throws it over his head and the boy's 
 back ; he then leaps after his cap, but avoids touch- 
 ing it with his feet. The other players follow him 
 as before. The next trick is " knuckling " — ^that 
 is to say, overing with the hands clenched ; the next, 
 " slapping," which is performed by placing one 
 hand on the boy's back, and hitting him with the 
 other, while overing ; the last, " spurring," or touch- 
 ing him up with the heel. All these tricks. must be 
 performed in the four different ways. 
 
 JUMP, LITTLE NAG-TAIL ! 
 
 n 
 
 COCK-FIGHTING. 
 
 Cock-fighting is a very amusing game for 
 younger boys. Two players are made to sit on the 
 ground, draw their legs up and clasp their hands 
 together over their shins. A stout stick is then 
 passed through under their knees and over their 
 arms at the bend of the elbows, and there they sit 
 trussed like a couple of fowls. 
 
 Thus prepared, the two combatants are placed 
 face to face, their toes touching, and are left to 
 fight it out. This they do by striving to knock 
 each other down, each seeking to overbalance the 
 other without losing his own equilibrium. 
 
 Two falls out of three decide the game ; if both 
 fall it is no " round " and does not count. As the 
 player may not unclasp his hands even when down, 
 he is helpless and must be helped up by his friends. 
 
 This game had a wonderful run of popularity 
 once at one of the English naval ports. A foreign 
 man-of-war had put in to refit after a severe gale ; 
 her officers, of course, received the hospitality of the 
 local authorities, and one evening after mess, sky- 
 larking being in vogue, cock-fighting was intro- 
 duced. This so took the fancy of the foreigners, 
 that next day, when some of their hosts of the 
 preceding evening went to call upon them, they 
 found them earnestly engaged, several pairs of them, 
 in this their new pastime, and were called upon 
 with pride to see what proficiency they had attained 
 in a short time. 
 
 For the rest of their stay the game still main- 
 tained its popularity amongst them, and no doubt 
 they carried it with them to their own home. One 
 authority declares that the last thing seen of the 
 vessel when far out at sea, was the captain cock- 
 fighting with the first lieutenant on the quarter- 
 deck and the parson with the doctor ; but perhaps 
 this is an exaggeration. 
 
 WINDING THE CLOCK. 
 
 To wind the clock all the players join hands, and 
 extend their arms to their full extent. One of the 
 outside players remains stationary, and the others 
 run round him as fast as they can, which proceed- 
 ing is called " winding the clock." In this manner 
 the straight line becomes a confused spiral, and all 
 the players get huddled together in a most laugh- 
 able manner. 
 
 In the game of " jump, little nag-tail ! " 
 eight players on each side is the best number. The 
 two leaders should toss up for choice of partners, 
 and after selecting them, toss again for innings. 
 The loser must then place himself quite upright, 
 with his face to a wall, against which he rests his 
 hands ; and one of his partners should next stoop 
 down, and put his head against his leader's back ; 
 another partner also bends, and places his head 
 against the back of the second player, and the rest 
 of the partners must take their places in the same 
 manner, one behind the other. When thus arranged, 
 they are called " nags." One of the winning party 
 next takes a run and, placing his hands on the back 
 of the last player or " nag," endeavors to spring on 
 to the back of the first, or at least to clear as many 
 " nags " as he possibly can, in order to allow room 
 for those following him to leap on the backs of the 
 other "nags," which they should do in succession, 
 until they are all fairly astride. If any of the " nags " 
 sink under the weight, or in trying to support them- 
 selves touch the ground either with their hands or 
 knees, or if the riders can keep their seats without 
 touching the ground, whilst their leader counts 
 twenty, or repeats the words, " Jump, little nag-tail, 
 one, two, three ! " three times, concluding with " oflf, 
 off, off ! " the riders resume their innings, and begin 
 again ; on the contrary, should there not be suffi- 
 cient space for all to leap on, or they are unable to 
 keep their seats on the back of the " nags," they 
 lose their innings, and become "nags" in their 
 turn. The " nags " must, while in the line, hold 
 either by the trousers of the player before them, or 
 else lean their hands on their knees, or cross their 
 arms on their breasts. Each rider must call out 
 "Warning" before he leaps on the back of one of 
 the " nags." 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 137 
 
 Kites are so called from having originally been 
 made in the shape of birds of that name. Though 
 they are not used exactly in any game (that is, in 
 any regular contest, as balls and marbles are), they 
 are the means of a very common amusement in 
 their season — ^the spring months — and will then be 
 found all over the world. Probably they are no- 
 where else as popular as in China, for kite-flying 
 has been called the national pastime of that coun- 
 try, and many of the fancy shapes now to be seen 
 here have come to us from literally the opposite 
 side of the globe. 
 
 As every boy knows, a kite is made to fly in the 
 air, and in order that it should do so it must first 
 have a body (which is the kite proper) to fly, next a 
 tail to steady it and lastly a string which causes it 
 to fly and at the same time prevents it from flying 
 away. Now, a kite can either be bought at a store 
 or can be made at home, and one which its owner 
 makes for himself will be valued much more than 
 any which is bought. And making them is not 
 very difficult : all that is required is a few light sticks 
 of wood, some string, paper (tissue is the best) and 
 
 kite ; the second, made with three sticks, is a house 
 kite ; and the third, made with one straight stick 
 and one bowed stick, a bow kite. The sticks must 
 be first tied tightly together, and a string is then 
 put around the outside, in notches cut for it, to 
 paste the paper on to. The tail is fastened to the 
 bottom and can be made of either paper or cloth. 
 Care has to be taken that the tail is neither so 
 heavy as to drag the kite down, nor, on the other 
 hand, that it is so light as to fail in its object of 
 steadying the kite and keeping it upright against 
 the wind. The string to hold and sail the kite with 
 should be strong (as if it breaks the kite is lost) and 
 should be fastened to the kite about one-third the 
 distance below the top. It is best to fasten it with 
 a " belly-band ;" that is, to tie a cord of about double 
 the width of the kite to the two extreme side joints 
 and then attach the flying string to the middle of 
 this cord. The string when not let out to fly the 
 kite should be kept wound around a stick. 
 
 paste made of flour and water. Three of the simplest 
 kind are shown in the above illustrations : the 
 first, made by crossing two sticks, is called a cross 
 
 The shapes can be varied at will and a boy with a 
 little ingenuity can devise some very novel effects — 
 figures of men, fishes, etc. — and by painting them 
 can get up very striking results. Only glaring 
 colors should be used and the designs should be 
 painted as coarsely as possible, to permit of their 
 being seen when high up in the air. A few of 
 these fancy shapes are suggested in the above \,j^.ey- 
 following illustrations. 
 
 Unless there be a good breeze stirring the kite- 
 flyer need not expect to have much sport, as noth- 
 ing can be more vexatious than attempting to fly a 
 kite when there is not sufficient wind for the pur- 
 pose. To raise the kite in the first instance, the 
 flyer will require the aid of another boy. The own- 
 er of the kite having unwound a considerable length 
 of string, turns his face toward the wind and pre- 
 pares for a run, while his assistant holds the kite by 
 its lower extremity as high as he can from the 
 ground. At a given signal the assistant lets the 
 kite go, and if all circumstances be favorable it will 
 soar upward with great rapidity. With a well-con- 
 
138 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 structed kite in a good breeze, the flyer need not 
 trouble himself to run very fast nor very far, as his 
 kite will soon find its balance and float quite stead- 
 ily on the wind. The kite-flyer should be careful 
 not to let out string too fast. When a kite pitches 
 
 it is a sign that it is built lop-sided, or that its tail 
 is not long enough. 
 
 Some boys amuse themselves by sending mes- 
 sengers up to their kites when they have let out all 
 their string. A messenger is formed of a piece of 
 paper three or four inches square, in the centre of 
 
 which a hole is made. The end of the string is 
 passed through the hole, and the wind quickly 
 drives the messenger up to the kite. The kite-flyer 
 should be careful not to send up too many messen- 
 gers, lest they weigh down the kite. 
 
 There are various games in which marbles are 
 used and there are many different kinds of marbles. 
 Those made of agate are prized the most, and in- 
 deed their pre-eminence is fully justified by the ex- 
 quisitely beautiful veining of some of them, and the 
 rich and harmonious coloring of others. Alleys a.r& 
 made of white marble striped and clouded with red, 
 and when this color predominates, they are called 
 blood-alleys. These marbles rank next in value to 
 the agates. Taws or stoneys, of brown marble, 
 streaked with darker tones of the same color, form 
 the third class ; French taws of stained or colored 
 marble the next ; the gaudy Dutch marbles of glazed 
 clay, painted either yellow or green, and ornament- 
 ed with stripes of a dark color, constitute class the 
 fifth, while the unpretending yellowish clay mar- 
 bles, or commoneys, are the cheapest of all. In many 
 games with marbles, considerable skill is required. 
 To shoot, or fillip a taw with precision is no easy 
 task ; this operation is performed by placing the 
 taw upon the inside of the forefinger and propelling 
 it with the nail of the thumb. While a player is 
 shooting his marble, his opponent can compel him 
 to knuckle-down — in other words, to touch the 
 ground with the middle joint of his forefinger ; this 
 is to prevent unfair play. 
 
 Bounce Eye, 
 
 This game requires several players, who each put 
 down a marble, and then form them into a small 
 ring ; one player begins by holding a marble in his 
 hand, close to his eye, and letting it fall upon the 
 ring ; the marbles forced out of the ring by the con- 
 cussion become his property, and the other players 
 then try their skill in turn ; the players are termed 
 "bouncers." 
 
 Three Holes. 
 
 Make three holes in the ground, four feet apart 
 from each other, and draw a line, about six feet 
 from the first hole. The first player begins, stand- 
 ing at the line, by shooting into the first hole ; if he 
 misses, the second player tries his fortune, each 
 shooting alternately as his opponent fails. A play- 
 er may, after shooting his marble into a hole, aim 
 at his opponent's taw, if it is near, so as to strike 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 139 
 
 it away as far as he can ; and if he can do so, he 
 continues shooting into the holes as before. The 
 player who gets first into the last hole is the win- 
 ner ; and it is to be done in the following manner : 
 First hole — second hole — third hole — second, first — ■ 
 second, third. The loser then placing his knuckles 
 at the first hole, the winner shoots as near the hole 
 as possible, and fires three times at the said loser's 
 knuckles, from the place where his marble rested. 
 
 Ring- Taijo. 
 
 Draw a circle, and let each player place as many 
 marbles in it as may be agreed on, and then make 
 
 that if one player's taw is struck by another's, 
 the player whose taw is struck is out, and must give 
 up to the striker all the marbles he may have pre- 
 viously shot out of the ring. 
 
 Increase Pound. 
 
 This is very similar to ring-taw, the variations 
 being, that if before a marble is shot out of the 
 ring, one player's taw is struck by another's (except- 
 ing his partner's), or, if his shot remains within the 
 ring, he puts a shot in the pound, continues in the 
 game and shoots again from the offing before any of 
 his companions. Should his taw be struck after one 
 
 
 
 RING-TAW. 
 
 a line at a little distance off, from which the play- 
 ers are, by turns, to shoot at the ring ; this line is 
 called the offing. If a player shoots a marble out 
 of the ring, he is entitled to shoot again before any 
 of his companions. When the players have fired 
 once, they shoot from the place where their mar- 
 bles rested at the last fire, and not from the offing. 
 If a marble is driven out of the ring by a player, it is 
 won ; but if his taw remains in the circle, he is out, 
 and must place a marble in it ; and if he has knocked 
 any marbles out of the ring before his taw gets in, 
 Ve must place them in likewise. It is a rule, also, 
 
 or more marbles have been driven out of the ring, 
 if he has taken any shots himself, he gives them 
 to the player who struck him, puts a taw in the 
 ring and shoots from the ofl5ng, as before. If, 
 however, he has not won any marbles during the 
 game, before his taw is struck, he is " killed " and 
 put out of the game ; he is likewise out if, after 
 any shots have been struck out, his taw gets within 
 the pound ; if it remains on the line, it is nothing. 
 He then puts the marbles (if he has won any) into 
 the circle, adding one to them for the taw struck, 
 and shoots again from the offing. In case he can- 
 
I40 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 not gain any shots after his taw gets " fat," as re- 
 maining in the ring is termed, he is Icilled, and is out 
 for the rest of the game. When only one marble 
 remains in the ring, the taw may continue inside 
 it without being " fat." Each player seldom puts 
 more than one marble in the ring at the beginning 
 of a game. 
 
 Arch Board., or Nine Holes. 
 
 Cut out of a piece of wood a rude resemblance 
 of a bridge, and make nine small arches in it and 
 number them thus : 
 
 The bowlers must endeavor, after giving the 
 bridge-keeper a marble every time they shoot, to 
 fire through the holes ; if any marble touches the 
 sides of the arches, it becomes the property of the 
 bridge-keeper ; and, on the contrary, if it passes 
 through one of the arches, the owner of the bridge 
 gives the number of marbles marked over the 
 arch to the bowler. In some parts of the country 
 this game is played with iron bullets instead of 
 marbles. 
 
 Picking the Plums. 
 
 A line is drawn on the ground, along which each 
 player places a certain number of marbles. At this 
 line the players shoot their taws in turns from a 
 given point. The marbles knocked off the line 
 become the property of the striker and the game 
 continues until no marbles remain. The marbles 
 should be placed as close together as possible with- 
 out actually touching. 
 
 Pyramid. 
 
 Let a player draw a circle on the ground, and 
 then make a pyramid, either by placing three mar- 
 bles triangularly, and one on top of them, or else 
 with six first, then four, and then one ; the post of 
 keeper of the pyramid ought to be taken by every 
 boy in succession. Before a player can shoot at 
 this pyramid, he must gi,ve a marble to the keeper ; 
 and should he strike the pyramid with his taw, 
 all the marbles driven by the concussion beyond 
 the circle belong to him. 
 
 Handers. 
 
 For this game a hole, two or three inches in di- 
 ameter, must be made in the ground, near a wall, if 
 
 possible. When two boys play they first decide up- 
 on the number of marbles to be staked by each at 
 every throw, and then proceed to pitch the marbles 
 into the hole, alternately, from a line at about three 
 yards' distance. Let the number staked by each be 
 four ; the thrower will then have eight marbles, 
 which he must pitch at the hole all together. Should 
 an even number of marbles fall in the hole, the 
 thrower wins them all ; but should he be so unfort- 
 unate as to hole an odd number, they become the 
 property of his opponent. The players now stake 
 again, and continue the game until they are tired of 
 speculation. When there are more than two play- 
 ers the game must be sligKtly altered. Having ar- 
 ranged the turns, the first player pitches the staked 
 marbles at the hole, and keeps all that fall in ; the 
 next player takes up those that remain, and throws 
 them in the same manner, keeping those he pitches 
 in ; the others follow in turn. When all the mar- 
 bles are holed, the player whose turn it is to pitch 
 becomes the first player of the next game. 
 
 Odd or Even. 
 
 One player extends his closed hand containing 
 some marbles, and asks his opponent to guess 
 whether their number is odd or even. Should he 
 guess wrong, he forfeits a marble, and his question- 
 er tries him with another lot ; but should he guess 
 right, the first player must pay him a marble, and 
 take a turn at guessing. 
 
 Eg, 
 
 o-s in the Bush. 
 
 This game is a great improvement upon odd or 
 even. Dick asks Tom to guess the number of 
 "eggs in the bush " — that is, the number of marbles 
 in his closed hand. If Tom can guess the right 
 number he takes all ; but if he is out in his reckon- 
 ing he pays Dick as many marbles as will make up 
 or leave the exact number. Suppose Dick has six 
 marbles in his hand; now, if Tom should guess 
 four or eight, he would have to forfeit two mar- 
 bles to Dick, because four is two less and eight is 
 two more than the exact number. The players 
 hold the " eggs in the bush " alternately. 
 
 The Conqueror. 
 
 In this game, one boy places a marble down on 
 a smooth spot where it is either hard earth or 
 gravel ; turf, through its being too soft, and pave- 
 ment much too hard, are both unsuitable ; another 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 141 
 
 boy then throws his marble, with all his force, at 
 that of the first player, endeavoring in this manner 
 to split it; if he is unable to do so, the first player 
 takes up, and in his turn throws his taw at that of 
 the second ; and so on alternately, each striving to 
 split his antagonist's taw. Good strong stone mar- 
 bles are the best in this game, and when a marble 
 has been victorious in many such games, it is only 
 used against such as in like manner have proved 
 themselves worthy of the honor of contending for 
 the superiority. Suppose two boys are playing at 
 this game, and that each of them have been victors 
 in many former encounters with other opponents ; 
 if one of the taws break, the owner of it must hand 
 over to the conqueror all the marbles he may have 
 won with that taw, and one also for the taw so 
 broken. 
 
 Humming-tops cannot easily be made, but can 
 very easily be purchased by those who are so lucky 
 as to have the money. They are made hollow, hav- 
 ing at their crown a peg, round which is wound 
 a string ; this being pulled through a kind of fork, 
 gives motion to the top, 
 and sets it spinnings 
 the fork and the string 
 being left in the spin- 
 
 |^= ner's hand. In spinning 
 =r the top, care should be 
 taken to wind the string 
 firmly and evenly on the 
 peg ; and when it is pulled out neither too much 
 nor too little force should be used, and a firm and 
 steady hand should be employed, while the top 
 should be held in a perpendicular position. The 
 string should be drawn with a steadily increasing 
 force or the top will not hum properly. 
 Peg-tops can be purchased at all toy-shops ; those 
 
 I 
 
 which have tolerably long pegs are the best for 
 " peg in the ring," as they describe a much larger 
 circle when spinning, and are more likely to swerve 
 out of the ring than those 
 with short pegs, which are 
 generally " sleepers " — that 
 is, apt to keep in one spot 
 while spinning ; the latter, 
 however, are exceedingly 
 well adapted for " chip- 
 stone." In winding the cord 
 on the top, it is the best plan 
 to pass it two or three times 
 round the peg before you 
 commence winding it on the 
 body of the top. Tops made of boxwood are the 
 hardest and best, but they are the most expensive. 
 Tops are also made of deal, elm, yew-tree, lignum- 
 vitEe and other material. 
 
 The Spanish peg-top is made of mahogany ; it is 
 shaped somewhat like a pear, and, instead of a sharp 
 iron peg, it has a small rounded knob at the end. 
 As it spins for a much longer time than the common 
 English peg-top, and does not require to be thrown 
 with any degree of force in order to set it up, it is 
 extremely well adapted for playing on flooring or 
 pavement. 
 
 Of the games in which tops can be used that 
 of whip-top is a capital sport when played by two 
 persons. It is played by first whirling the top into 
 motion by turning it sharply with both hands and 
 beginning to whip it as soon as it acquires a toler- 
 ably strong rotary motion, being careful not to 
 strike too hard at the first. A pliable eel-skin 
 makes a far better whip for this sport than one 
 made of leather, but it must not be kept either very 
 dry or very wet, as in the former case it splits and 
 cracks when used, and in the latter becomes heavy 
 and unwieldy with moisture. The number of games 
 with whip-tops is exceedingly limited, being only 
 two — races, in which the boy who can whip his top 
 to the greatest distance in the shortest time is the 
 winner; and encounters, in which the players whip 
 the tops against each other till one of them falls. 
 
 Another game is chip-stone, also played by two 
 boys, in the following manner. Two lines, about 
 six feet apart, are marked upon the ground, which 
 ought to be smooth and hard. Some small stones 
 are then procured and placed midway between the 
 lines ; they should not be larger than a small bean 
 and the black and polished ones are the most sought 
 after. The tops are set up spinning on the ground, 
 and the players, each being provided with a small 
 
142 
 
 OUT-DOOR SPORTS FOR BOYS. 
 
 wooden spoon, dexterously introduce them under 
 the pegs of the spinning-tops, and then, with the 
 top still spinning in the spoon, throw the point of 
 the peg against the stone, so as to chip it out of 
 bounds; he who does this the soonest being the 
 victor. While the top continues to spin, he may 
 take it up with the spoon as many times as he can, 
 and when it spins out he must again wind it up, pur- 
 suing the same plan till he " chips out." In winding 
 up the top do not wet the end of the line too much, 
 and take care to lap it closely and evenly within the 
 grooves. In throwing the top from you, the line 
 
 to peg at it as quickly as they can. If none of them 
 hit it while it is spinning, and if it rolls out of the 
 ring, the owner is allowed to take it up, and having- 
 wound it, to peg at the others which may be still 
 spinning in the circle. Should any of the tops, when 
 they cease spinning, fall within the ring, they are 
 considered dead, and are placed in the centre of the 
 circle for the others to peg at. The player who suc- 
 ceeds in striking any of the tops out of the circle 
 claims those so struck out. In some places each 
 player may ransom his top with a marble. 
 Sleeping-tops are exposed to much danger in the 
 
 PEG-IN-THE-RING. 
 
 must be pulled in with a peculiar jerk of the hand, 
 which practice alone can give. The string button 
 should be held close in the hand, between the last 
 two fingers of the hand. There is what is called an 
 "underhand " way of spinning top — i.e., by holding 
 its peg downwards, throwing it in a straight line for- 
 ward, and withdrawing the string. 
 
 Peg-in-the-ring may be played by any number of 
 boys. A ring about a yard in diameter is first 
 marked on the ground, and another ring surround- 
 ing the first, and at a yard's distance from it, is also 
 marked. The players must stand on this ring, and 
 from it throw their tops. One player begins by 
 throwing his top spinning into the ring, and while 
 it is there spinning the other players are at liberty 
 
 play, for they offer a fair mark to the " pegger," 
 and often get split, when the peg is taken by the 
 splitter as his trophy. Long-pegged tops are the 
 best for the game, for they lie more upon their sides 
 after their fall and, before the spinning entirely 
 ceases, are the more likely to spin out of the ring. 
 There is a way of making the top spring directly it 
 has touched the ground. Only long-pegged tops 
 will execute this feat. It is done by drawing the 
 hand sharply towards the body just as the top leaves 
 the string. When the manoeuvre is well executed, 
 the top will drive any opponent that it strikes ea- 
 tirely out of the ring, while it does not remain with- 
 in the dangerous circle itself for more than a few 
 seconds. 
 
PLAYGROUND GAMES. 
 
 M3 
 
 HOOPS. 
 
 Trundling the hoop is a pastime of uncertain 
 ■origin, but it has long contributed to the health and 
 amusement of the young people of America and 
 Great Britain. Girls generally prefer wooden hoops, 
 but iron ones are most in favor with boys. These 
 instead of being driven by a stick are usually pro- 
 pelled aud guided by a slender iron hook with a 
 rather long handle. 
 
 The proper and legitimate hoop, however, should 
 be made of a stout ashen lath, round on the outside 
 and flat on the inside,and should be well fastened at 
 its point of juncture ; it should be high enough to 
 reach midway between the owner's elbow and shoul- 
 der, so that he may not have to stoop while striking 
 it. The stick should be about sixteen inches long 
 and made of tough ash, and in bowling the hoop 
 the bowler should strike it vigorously in the centre 
 and in a direction horizontal with the ground. 
 
 Wooden hoops, also, give due exercise to the arm ; 
 and there is some tact required in knowing exactly 
 where to strike a hoop, so as to propel it with the 
 greatest force. 
 
 This cannot well be done with iron hoops, and 
 forms one of the objections to them. Moreover, 
 boys always complain that they soon lose their 
 round form and are awkward to bowl. Still, there is 
 something cheering in the ringing sound of an iron 
 hoop, as it rushes along under the pressure of the 
 curved iron rod that takes the place of the hoop- 
 stick. I 
 
 The games, properly so called, that can be played 
 with the hoop are very few, and not generally known. 
 Among them is one called " encounters," in which 
 two boys start at different ends of the playground 
 with their hoops, and meeting in the middle, each 
 endeavors to knock down the hoop of his antago- 
 nist, while his own remains upright. 
 
 There is no small skill required in this game, for 
 it is not always easy to make the hoops touch each 
 other at all. Then a light hoop has little chance 
 against a heavy one, unless it can strike it sideways, 
 for if it were struck directly in front it would be 
 certainly upset. But a ready hand at recovering a 
 falling or tottering hoop wins many a game that 
 appears to be hopelessly lost. 
 
 Another hoop-game is called " posting." In this 
 bases, called posting-stations, are formed at regular 
 distances, in a large circle or ellipse, and at each base 
 a player is stationed. Every player, except the hooj>- 
 driver, has charge of a base. Let us suppose that 
 there are seven players — A, B, C, D, E, F and G, and 
 
 that the latter holds the hoop : the other six play- 
 ers having taken possession of their stations, G now 
 starts from the station belonging to F, and drives 
 the hoop towards A, who waits, with hoop-stick in 
 hand, ready to relieve G of his charge. G stops at 
 the posting station, while A trundles the hoop to 
 B, who takes charge of it, and delivers it to C. C 
 trundles the hoop to D ; D transfers it to E ; E deliv- 
 ers it to F ; and F conveys it in safety to the first 
 player, G. In this way the game continues, until 
 all the players have worked round the circle five or 
 six times. It is considered very disgraceful to 
 touch the hoop with the hand, or to allow it to 
 fall after it has been started on its journey. The 
 game is rendered much more lively by increasing 
 the number of players, so that two or three hoop- 
 drivers follow each other from base to base. 
 
 " Tournament " is a game very similar to " en- 
 counters." Two boys drive their hoops one against 
 the other, and he whose hoop falls in the encounter 
 is conquered. With eight players this game may 
 be rendered very exciting. Four of the players 
 stand in a row, about six feet apart, and, at a 
 considerable distance, the other four take their 
 stand, facing them. At a given signal each player 
 dashes towards his opponent, and strives to over- 
 turn his hoop. The four victors now pair off, and 
 charge two against two. The conquerors then urge 
 their hoops one against the other, and he who suc- 
 ceeds in overturning the hoop of his antagonist wins 
 the game. 
 
 Five or six boys can play at "turnpike," though 
 only one hoop is required. Chance decides which 
 of the players shall first take the hoop. The oth- 
 er players become turnpike-keepers. Each turn- 
 pike is formed of two bricks or stones, placed on 
 the ground, and separated by about three fingers' 
 breadths. These turnpikes are fixed at regular dis- 
 tances, and their number is regulated by the number 
 of keepers. When all is ready, the first player starts 
 his hoop, and endeavors to drive it through all the 
 turnpikes ; should he succeed in this, he turns the 
 hoop, drives it back again, and retains it until it 
 touches one of the turnpikes, the keeper of which 
 now becomes hoop-driver. When a player touches 
 the hoop with his hand, or allows it to fall, he must 
 deliver it up to the nearest turnpike-keeper. Each 
 keeper must stand on that side of his turnpike 
 which is towards the right hand of the hoop-driver, 
 and it therefore follows that he must alter his po- 
 sition when the hoop-driver returns. Should a 
 keeper stand on his wrong side, the driver need not 
 send the hoop through his turnpike. 
 
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