.*Ca atS4sa* LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. SJptp Gupitrig^ !f n. Shelf. A..1J UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. OUR TRAVELLING PARTY IN IRELAND HY DANIEL C. EDDY. r ILLUSTRATED. JW BOSTON: D. LOTHROP & COMPANY, FRANKLIN ST., CORNER HAWLEY. COPYRIGHT 1882, By DANIEL C. EDDY. °'CONo REss ' PRINTED BY G . W . STIDLET & CO. ETECTROTYPED AT THE 108'1'ON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY PREFACE f*~ This volume commences a series of books for youth, adapted to please, instruct, and benefit. The aim will be to give the youthful reader a clear, accu- rate account of foreign scenes and society. Every effort will be made to make the statements reliable, and the books permanently useful, not merely to the young, but to all persons whose circumstances will not allow them to go abroad. The author proposes to follow a travelling party through the principal countries of Europe, into Egypt, Palestine, and Greece. Though the successive vol- umes will be connected in name and style, and will be issued as a serial, a few months intervening be- tween them, each one will be complete in itself. These books will be sent out into a field that never can be filled, for the children's department of our literature makes constant demands, and every volume published for young persons only creates a taste that calls for others ; and this series is given to the public with the hope that each successive vol- ume may prove useful, instructive, and entertaining. The next volume, which will soon be issued, will take the traveller through Scotland and England. (7) CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. The Percy Mansion .11 II. The Atlantic Voyage =,29 III. Glimpses of Liverpool 53 IV. A Walk on Chester Walls 77 V. A Ride through North Wales 101 VI. Crossing the Channel 112 VEI. The Irish Capital 119 VEIL Fancy Trip to Cork US IX. Visit to the Lakes of Killarney 176 X. Maynooth and Drogheda 192 XI. Glances at Giant's Causeway 206 XII. Dunluce Castle 218 XIII. A Day in Belfast 225 XIV. Farewell to Ireland 239 (8) ENGRAVINGS PAGE Golden Cross Abbey <, . . . 2 The Percy Mansion 10 Steamer Niagara 47 "Walter's Time Table 76 God's Providence House. . . „ 91 Britannia Bridge 105 Shandon Steeple 155 Blarney Castle . 171 Irish Riding 189 An Irish Town 197 Giant's Well and Guide 207 Giant's Gateway 210 (9) THE PERCY FAMILY. Chapter I. THE PERCY MANSION. IN the beautiful city of Cambridge, near Bos- ton, stands the aristocratic mansion of Peter Percy, Esq., a rich merchant, who has long been engaged in the West India trade, and who has accumulated a vast fortune, by prudence, economy, skill, and sound judgment. The Percy family consists of the father, mother, and three lovely children of the respective ages of eleven, nine, and six. The oldest, Walter, is a thoughtful, sedate, studious boy, who never gave his parents a moment's uneasiness, and who is a patient devotee of books. Intellect is writ- ten on his fair brow, his pale features are stamped with genius, and already he shows the dawnings of that light which will make him a bright example. The second child is Minnie, the antipode of Walter, a mild, beautiful girl, (ii) 12 THE PERCY FAMILY. whose brown hair falls in wavy ringlets on her shoulders, and. whose sunny smile is the light of the house and the joy of the home circle. Impatient and nervous, she would rather gather buttercups and daisies than pore over books ; healthful and cheerful, she turns every thing upside down, answering the remonstrance of her mother with a merry laugh that is irresistible, and that drives every frown from that look of maternal love. Every body loves Minnie Percy, and she is justly the pride of her parents. Charlie is the youngest, a noble boy,, of good proportions and fair appearance, who has yet to develop himself in order to have his traits of character fully seen. The family, when to- gether, is one of the most happy in the place ; no cloud rests upon their home, which is one of great magnificence. Peter Percy himself is a man of intelligence, reading, and business sagacity ; a devout Chris- tian, and a man deeply interested in every good enterprise, and every philanthropic movement, liberal to the poor, just to himself, and grateful to God. One evening this merchant returned to his mansion, and, after tea had been served, and the gas lighted, called his family together, and told them that he was about to leave the cares and THE PERCY MANSION. 13 anxieties of business for a while, and seek rec- reation and rest in a foreign tour. Walter's large, dreamy eyes were at once fixed on his father's face, and little Minnie clapped her hands for joy. tw Will you take me ? " said Walter. " I will go," enthusiastically cried Minnie, almost breathless with impetuosity. " And me too, pa ! " chimed in Charlie. " Stop, children," said Mr. Percy, " and let us talk over this matter. Perhaps mamma will have a word to say about it." Mrs. Percy, who had previously been made ac- quainted with her husband's plans, smiled upon her lovely children, as, with one accord, the trio appealed to her. " May we go, mamma ? " " I cannot spare you all. Who woidd come and kiss mamma in the morning ? " " I will stay at home with mamma," said Charlie, half in sorrow. " 1 do not want to go away with papa ; I will stay at home with mamma." A kiss was the only answer the mother gave as she touched the brow of her fair child, from which the sunny hair was thrown back. The little fellow looked up as he felt a tear drop on his cheek, and added, — 14 THE PERCY FAMILY. " Shall not Charlie have a rocking horse if he stays at home ? " The promise having been made that Charlie should have his rocking horse, and that Walter and Minnie should accompany Mr. Percy on his European tour, the evening was spent in making arrangements, and talking over plans for the future, until the time came for sleep, when the whole family, after seeking direction and counsel of God, the great Father, retired to rest. But Walter and Minnie could not sleep much. Their little heads were side by side, and long, in low whispers, did they converse of the things they expected to see on their arrival in Europe ; and it was after midnight when sleep overpow- ered them. The sun had scarcely risen the next morn- ing ere the children were all up ; and a more merry family circle one would not desire to see, than that which gathered around Mr. Percy's table that day. The children were happy in the idea of seeing so many different lands, and so many strange scenes. Walter had read of Lon- don and Rome, and Minnie had often heard of Paris, the gay and beautiful metropolis of fashion, and the prospect of seeing those places took away all inclination to study, or even eat. Breakfast being over, the family carriage, a THE PERCY MANSION. 15 oo^JOc vehicle of more utility than beauty, of more real comfort than elegance of appearance, was brought to the door by the servant, and Mr. Percy, addressing his son, said, — " Come, Walter, get ready and we will go into the city and purchase our tickets, and secure our berths for the voyage." " What, father, so soon as this ? " " Yes, my son ; at this season of the year the steamers are so crowded that passage must be taken several weeks in advance." On the way to the city, Mr. Percy explained more fully his plans to his son, and gave him an outline of the route he proposed to take. Wal- ter had studied geography carefully, and had read history somewhat extensively, and was ac- quainted with many of the cities which had been marked down as worthy of a visit, and the con- versation on these places gave evidence that the lad had made much proficiency in his studies, and could appreciate the voyage he was about to make. Many men of means travel, but ac- quire no information, and fail of enlarging their minds, because they are strangers to the histori- cal importance of the places they visit ; and Mr. Percy was well pleased that his son should de- velop so much knowledge of the places of his' toric interest, and sacred to the memory of 16 THE PERCY FAMILY. heroes and martyrs. He found that the lad was to be a better travelling companion than somo men of mature years, but of less observation and reading, could possibly be. To travel well, a man must be a genius — he must have an aptitude for travelling. Some men may go around the world and never see any thing, or become any wiser for the pains they take to visit distant lands. They have no genius for travelling. They go with their eyes shut, their ears closed, and their hearts sealed. They will ride through an enchanting country, reading some romance, or poring over the last political article in the London Times. They visit cities, but they never get any knowledge of the cus- toms of the people. They are not gifted with the faculty for travelling, and might as well stay at home. It was not so with our young hero. He was observant of every thing that passed before him, and before he had secured his passage, he had laid out his plans, and, in imagination, lived over half his journey. " Here we are at the booking office," said Mr. Percy, as he reined up his horse in front of a noble edifice on State Street ; and the two went up stairs into the office of the agent, and Mr. Percy inquired of that gentleman, — THE PERCY MANSION. 17 " What steamer sails two weeks from to- day?" " The Niagara, sir." " Who will command her on the passage ? " " Captain Wickman, one of the best officers in the service." " Is she full ? " " Nearly so, but a few state rooms yet remain unengaged." " Will you show me the plan ? " " Certainly, sir, with the greatest pleasure." Mr. Percy looked over the plan, and found that state rooms, with berths, numbered 71 and 72, were not taken, and at once engaged them, and having also secured a berth for Minnie, in the state room for ladies, gave his check on the Boylston Bank for the amount. All this time Walter stood looking on, and wondering how large the room could be, and what kind of a berth he should have, and was aroused from his reflections by the question of the agent, — " Would you not like to take your son over to the dock at East Boston, and let him see the steamer ? " " Well, what say, Walter ? " asked Mr. Percy. " 0, by all means, let ns go over," was the reply. The agent furnished Mr. Percy with a ticket, vol. J. 2 18 THE PERCY FAMILY. and entering the carriage, the father and son drove rapidly to the ferry. The boat was just starting, and they had barely time to get aboard before the bell rang, and the huge, unwieldy float moved out into the channel ; and in a few min- utes a dull, heavy crash announced the arrival at East Boston. Driving to the steamer landing, and showing the ticket to the gate tender, they were allowed to go on deck, and see the vessel which was to bear them across the deep. They found their state room to be a very pleasant one, but in a state of confusion, as the steamer was being cleansed for her trip. The servants, how- ever, were very polite, and the steward asked Mr. Percy if he would not select seats at the table, as it might be too late when he came aboard again. So they went into the magnifi- cent saloon, and found several long tables , and Mr. Percy, turning to his son, said, — " Walter, where would you like to sit ? " Walter looked along the table, and replied, " I would like to sit near the captain, so that we may have the benefit of his conversation." " That," said the steward, pointing to a table near the door, " is the captain's table ; but five seats are already taken there. The next table is not taken." So seats were selected at the second table, THE PERCY MANSION. 19 and Walter, writing his father's name on one card, and his own on another, handed them to the steward, who said the seats should be reserved. After looking about the steamer, going into both cabins, examining the huge engine, — which now was silent and still, like a great dead thing, incapable of motion, — and talking with the offi- cers and men, our friends, whom we have ac- companied to the steamer, took their carriage and leisurely rode back to the city, through Charlcstown, not crossing the ferry as they had done before. They reached the city just as the sun was setting, and stopping for a moment at his counting house, Mr. Percy then drove rapidly to his house in Cambridge. Minnie was waiting for them with the greatest impatience, and before they had time to enter the house, she cried, " Have you got the tickets, Walter ? Did you see the steamer, father ? Will any ladies go over with us ? When shall we start ? " " Stop, stop, my clear ; one question at a time, my child," said Mr. Percy, in a tone savor- ing of slight rebuke. " You must learn to be patient ; " and then, with a pleasant smile, added, " I will let Walter answer your questions while I go and see that the carriage is taken care of." 20 THE PERCY FAMILY. " I will tell you all about it after tea," said Walter. " After tea, indeed ! I must hear about it now." "Well, I will tell you all I know." So Walter sat down with his sister, and told her all that had been done, and described the ves- sel, and the state room, and the appearance of the captain, and detailed much of the conversation which had occurred between him and his father, all of which interested the little girl very much. " And now, father, what else have we to do before we go ? " said Walter, as the family were seated at the tea table. " 0, several things," was the reply. " We have to purchase some nice new trunks and carpet bags ; we have to secure our passports, and mamma has much work to do to get us all ready. We shall want a few letters of introduc- tion to distinguished persons, whom we must try to see, but on whom it would not be courteous to call without an introduction. We must get a letter of credit, so that, when we are in want of money, we can go to the bankers in London, Paris, Vienna, or Rome, and draw as much as we need. And several other little things must be attended to ere we shall be ready to sail." THE PERCY MANSION. 21 " What is a letter of credit ? " asked Walter. " What is a passport ? " asked Minnie. " I will answer Walter's question first, as it was asked first. A letter of credit is a banking document, which is taken from a banker in Bos- ton, who has correspondence with bankers in all the prominent European cities. I deposit with the banker here a sum of money, or my note for a certain amount, and receive the letter in re- turn. When I want money in Paris or Naples, I take the letter to a banker, whose name is on this paper, and lie gives me fifty or a hundred dollars, just as I may want. By this arrange- ment, I am not obliged to carry gold, which would be very heavy, and would be a source of continual anxiety. Do you understand ? " " I think I do." " Well, I will explain it more fully to you when we draw money in some foreign city." " And now my question," said Minnie. " What is a passport ? " " A passport, my child, is a document given by the secretary of state, at Washington, show- ing that I am an American citizen. So, when I <40 into any country, the police will know who I am, and not confound me with those who are trying to overthrow the government. In this country and in England, passports are not re- 22 THE PERCY FAMILY. quired, but all over the continent they are de- manded." " But if you should not have one, what would be the result ? " asked Minnie. " Why, when we reached the French frontier, we should be sent back or arrested. " " 0, that would be funny." " More perplexing than funny, my child." " And what should we do ? " " Well, we might go to London and get a passport from Mr. Dallas, the American minister, as he has power to give it. But we could not travel without it any where upon the continent." Thus conversing, the tea hour passed away, the evening advanced, and the hour for family devotions having arrived, the whole family bowed before the great Father, sought his pro- tection, and separated for the night. The next morning Mr. Percy and Walter rode into Boston, and, calling at the Custom House, made an arrangement with a polite official for a passport. Walter and his father were measured, their ages taken, and a general description of them made. This description was sent to Wash- ington, and a few days elapsed before the docu- ment was received. They then went to the banker, and made arrangements with him for a letter of credit, Mr. Percy putting a large sum THE PERCY MANSION. 23 of money on deposit, and receiving the necessary document. They then went to a trunk maker, and bought two stont trunks, and two fine car- pet bags. They next repaired to a clothing store, where a nice suit of gray travelling clothes were bought for Walter, a loose drab sack for Mr. Percy, and one or two articles for Minnie. All this, with some business matters not con- nected with the tour, occupied most of the day, and they returned in the afternoon, again to be overwhelmed with questions by Minnie, who in the mean while had been busy with her mother in preparing her clothes, and getting ready for the voyage. After a few days Mr. Percy received a large document, bearing the seal of the United States, and on opening it, it was found to be the pass- ports for the travellers ; and as many of our readers may never have seen a passport, we give a copy of one on the next page, as nearly as we can in so small a space. Day by day the arrangements progressed, and soon the trio were all ready to start ; and as the time approached, the young folks became more anxious to be on the way. The steamer was to start on the seventh day of April, and the hours and minutes to that time were counted and wished away. However, none of the time was 24 THE PERCY FAMILY. &o all to frrljom %se Jwamts sjrall tome, greeting : Stature, 5 ft. 8 inch. Age, 35 years. Forehead, high. Eyes, gray. Nose, small. Mouth, medium. Chin, round. Hair, brown. Complexion, light. Face, medium. The undersigned, Secretary of State of the T&nitzb States Of America, hereby requests all whom it may concern, to per- mit safely and freely to pass a citizen of the United States, and in case of need to give him all useful aid and pro- tection. Given under my hand Signature of Bearer. I U.S. Seal.) and the impression of the Seal of the De- partment of State, at the City of Washing- ton, the 29th day of March, A. D. 1858, in the 82 tion made, and before Mr. Percy appeared in the breakfast room Walter had' returned and written nearly half a page. " Father, don't you think it most time for the breakfast bell to ring ? " whispered Minnie. " They do not ring any bell." " Why not ? " " Walter some time will tell you that they do not have one long table and a definite hour for dinner, at English hotels, but whoever wishes GLIMPSES OP LIVERPOOL. 55 dinner or tea gives the necessary order, and it is brought." " Have you ordered breakfast, father ? " " No, not yet, but Walter may go and do so." " Me, sir ? " queried Walter. a Yes, my son ; you might as well learn now to do these things ; so go and sec what you can do about it." Walter went to the servant, who stood wait- ing for orders, and said, " I wish to order breakfast." " For how many ? " " For three." " What will you have ? " " 0, I don't know." " How can I bring it then ? " " Let me see ; I'll think." The servant smiled, and Mr. Percy looked on, but thought best not to help his son out of the dilemma ; and indeed he did not need to, for Walter spoke out promptly, " We will have co£ fee, eggs, and mutton chop." The servant hurried away, and soon the table was covered with food, of which all partook with excellent appetites. While they were eating, Mr. Tenant joined them, and proposed some plans for the day. " We must do our work in Liver- pool very hastily, as we must leave in a short time," he said. 56 THE PERCY FAMILY. " Well, where shall we go first ? " asked Mr. Percy. " I think we had better see the docks first, as they are the peculiar attraction of this city." It was so agreed, and breakfast being con- cluded, a cab was engaged, and the whole com- pany set out to see the docks. These docks are artificial basins built of huge blocks of stone, and the water in them is so enclosed as to float the vessels all the time, whatever may be the depth of the water in the river outside. They are built between the Mersey and the town, guarded from storms, and filled at high tide. Many of them can be entirely drained at low tide, or kept full, as circumstances may require. These docks, built at an immense expense, are capable of protecting a vast number of vessels, and distinguish Liverpool from all other places. As you approach the town, the shipping seems to be in the centre of the thickly-settled place. High walls and toppling warehouses can only be seen, with masts, flags, and pendants rising or moving above them and beyond them. Each dock has its water gate, and when any vessel wishes to go forth, the tide being up, the gate is opened, and she is turned out. The extent and magnificence of these docks, GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. 57 which are all surrounded with warehouses and stores for the reception or sale of goods, will bo seen when it is stated that the Saltliouse Docks occupy an area of nearly five acres, and cost three million dollars ; the Albert Dock covers an area of nearly eight acres, and cost about four million dollars ; the King's Dock has an area of more than seven acres, and cost nearly four million dollars ; the Queen's Dock covers an area of more than ten acres ; the Coburg Dock covers about five acres ; the Brunswick Dock covers nearly thirteen acres ; and several others nearly as extensive. All these docks were visited by the party, and they failed not to mark with admiration the fa- cilities for shipping purposes, and with pleasure the fact that in these vast basins were vessels from almost every clime. Walter and Minnie were much amused at what they saw, especially with the sailors who were hurrying round, and using odd expressions, and with the crowds who were constantly landing at the piers. The Mer- sey was full of vessels, some coming in and some going out ; some with white sails all spread, and some with paddles, funnels, and steampipes in full blast. The scene was exciting, and as the party stood gazing on, Walter recalled a few lines which he remembered to have read 58 THE PERCY FAMILY. some time before, and which he thought must have been written with this view in the poet's eye : — " A thousand keels the subject wave divide, Float with the flow, or stem the ebbing tide — Winged messengers that haste, with sails unfurled, To barter produce with some distant world. With oar and paddle, sail and thundering steam, They row, they cleave, they plough the Mersey's stream — That stream which, fretted by a thousand prows, No silent rest, no liquid slumber, knows ; Whate'er the hour, whatever winds prevail, Behold the outward and the homeward sail ! " " Well done, Walter ; your memory is good, and no description of the scene now before us could be finer," said Mr. Tenant. Leaving the docks, the party rode to the Sailor's Home — a large, elegant building de- voted to seamen. This " Home " is the means of saving hundreds of poor sailors every year from destruction. It is a gem of architectural taste and beauty, and is always filled with the sons of the ocean. Walter and Minnie went into the reading room, and conversed with the hardy sailors there, one of whom took the young people through the building, into the neat, tidy sleeping rooms, into the spacious dining hall, and even into the kitchen. As they went from room to room, Walter's usually clear eye began GLIMPSES OP LIVERPOOL. 59 to flash with unwonted fire ; and when he re- turned to his father, he said, " 0, how I wish we had such a grand * Home ' for the sailors as this in Boston." " We have ' Homes,' my son." " Yes, sir, but they are not like this." " And still, humble as they are, they may be accomplishing as much good." " Ah, Walter, you would make a good curate for Father Taylor," said Mr. Tenant, laugh- ingly. " I should like to be," said the lad, his whole face lighting up with noble enthusiasm. Leaving the " Home," the party rode away, and in passing the doors of one of the old churches, saw that some service was being held within. The driver reined his horses up at the door, and a large sign on the edifice in- formed the stranger that marriages were cele- brated at that hour on that day of the week. " We must go in, father," cried Minnie, " 0, the fun of going to a wedding this morning ! " " If we must, we must, Minnie," replied Mr. Percy ; " but I think it will be a loss of time." They all entered the church, and witnessed a novel spectacle, which " did pay," as Minnie afterwards declared. Eight couples or pairs were standing at the altar, strangers to each 60 THE PERCY FAMILY. other, but all being married in one service. The clergyman hurried through the service, jumbling up his words, and making the whole thing ludicrous. As soon as the service was over, the minister hurried to an anteroom, and the sexton took the couples in one by one to sign the record and pay the fees ; and as Walter passed by the door, he saw the happy bride- grooms making the change, and counting out the shillings, just as regularly as if they had, instead of marrying a wife, been buying a pound of tea or a loaf of bread. u Father, father," cried Minnie, " I hope none of these men will make any mistake when they come out of that little room, and take the wrong bride." " Hush, hush, my child." " It would not matter much," whispered Wal- ter in the ear of his sister ; but a grave look on the face of Mr. Percy hushed their merriment. Leaving the church, they again entered the carriage, and when seated Mr. Percy said to Minnie, " What o'clock is it by your watch ? Is it not about time to dine ? " Minnie took out her watch, and, in vexation, exclaimed, " This watch, which you gave me for a birthday present, is not good for any thing at all." GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. 61 " Not good for any thing ! Why, it cost sixty dollars." " Well, yon may see. Here it is about noon, and my watch says that it is only seven o'clock. What do yon make of that ? " " Perhaps Walter can tell ns. Is it the fault of the watch or Minnie herself, my son ? " " 0, it is Minnie that is out of time." " What do you mean ? " " Why," said Mr. Percy, in explanation, " the time differs. Your watch would be just right if you were in New York or Boston, but the Lon- don time is about five hours ahead of New York time. It is now five minutes after seven by your watch, which was set before you left home, and, knowing the difference in the time, I am sure it is just twelve o'clock here. I am as con- fident as if I held my watch in my hand, and that, you know, I set this morning by the clock at the hotel." " But I would like to know more about it." " Walter will explain the whole to you some time, as I fully explained it to him on the voyage." " I have a calculation and a drawing which I made while on shipboard, which Minnie can have to look at. It shows the time, relatively, in different places, and the mate of the steamer 62 THE PERCY FAMILY. told me it was right. It shows the time in five different places," said Walter. Minnie was much pleased witli the drawing, which is found on another page, and expressed the earnest wish that Walter would explain how it is that time diners so much in different places. By this time the carriage had reached the hotel, and the whole company were soon enjoy- ing themselves in different ways, while dinner was being prepared for them. Minnie had thrown herself upon the bed ; Walter was filling up his journal ; Mr. Percy was writing a letter to his wife ; while, we regret to say, that Mr. Tenant had his feet on the sill of the open win- dow, and was making his mouth a smoke pipe for the fumes of a cigar, to the use of which he was somewhat devoted. " I think," said the latter, holding his cigar between his fingers, " that one would hardly select Liverpool as a place of residence, inde- pendent of business considerations. The streets are irregular, and filled with seamen and dock laborers of the lowest class ; houses, stores, and workshops are strangely mixed together ; and ignorance and poverty are distinctly seen." " And yet," replied Mr. Percy, who had fin- ished his letter, and was folding it, " we have GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. 68 seen some fine public buildings, among which are the Exchange, the Sailors' Home, St. George's Hall, and several others ; and I am told that there are parks and cemeteries of great beauty." " True ; but you see that the city is devoted to commerce, and only those men live here who " " Dinner ready, sir," cried a servant, opening and shutting the door ; and our friends repaired to the table, where a fine piece of English roast beef was set before them, which, with sharpened appetites, they discussed with great hilarity. At the table the question was asked, " Well, where shall we go this afternoon, Walter ? " Walter had been looking over the guide books, in search of objects of interest, and replied, u I should like to go to St. James's Cemetery, said to be a lovely spot." " I have no objection to that," said Mr. Percy. " Nor I," added Mr. Tenant. But Minnie voted in the minority. " 0, do not go there. Walter is always looking after cemeteries, tombs, and old buildings. Let us go to the Zoological Gardens, for I should much rather see leopards, lions, and monkeys, than tombstones." " We can go to both places, my child, so that both of you can be gratified." 54 THE PERCY FAMILY. The carriage was called, and away they rode to St. James's Cemetery, situated in a deep deV surrounded by high hills, in which excavations are made for tombs. Almost the first object which meets the eye, on entering, is a Grecian oratory, in which are several monuments to the crumbling memory of the dead. On every side are statues and effigies, the poor memorials of once living, moving men. This burial place is one of much rural beauty, and, from its pic- turesque situation in what was once a stone quarry, in the sides of which are several sculp- tured galleries of catacombs, draws the attention, and claims a visit from every stranger. The great object of interest, however, is the marble statue of the Right Hon. William Huskisson, formerly one of the most distinguished citizens of Liverpool. The statue stands in a circular oratory, and was made in Rome by an English artist. It did not take our party long to go through these grounds, and glance at the various objects of interest, as the whole area contains but about forty-four thousand square yards, and, as a mi- nute inspection of such a place was not needed, the visit to this home of the dead was soon con- cluded. In returning, the whole party called on the minister, who lives in a handsome stone GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. 65 house near by, who gave them several items of useful information in relation to the grounds. During his conversation, he called the oratory a " Greek Hypaetliral temple," a term which Min- nie could not understand, and which she re- solved to ask Walter to explain, but which she forgot to do, as her mind was not on oratories and temples, but on the elephants and lions she expected soon to see. They next drove to the Zoological Gardens, where the remainder of the afternoon was spent. They went from the cage of one animal to anoth- er, from one cage of birds to another, until they had seen the whole — elephant, lion, monkey, and all. One or two amusing things occurred here. There was a huge ostrich closely con- fined, and when Minnie laid her hand on the bars of his prison, he snapped at her, and she was obliged to withdraw her hand. But as the bird stood with his head against the bars, she took out her gold pencil, and tapped him on the bill. " You had better let him alone, little girl," said the keeper. " 0, he won't hurt me ; " and she continued tapping his beak with her jewelled pencil. The bird watched his opportunity, and seized the pencil in his mouth., and swallowed it. VOL. i. 5 66 THE PERCY FAMILY. " Well, I declare," cried Minnie. " What is the matter ? " asked her father. " Matter enough. This great ugly bird has swallowed my pencil." " I told you to be careful," said the keeper. " That is just the way with Minnie ; she is al- ways getting into trouble," said Walter. " That is the third new pencil she has had within three months." " Well, I didn't know the creature would eat it." " Well, let it go now," said Mr. Percy ; " only be more careful another time, my daughter." " I think, Minnie, you are growing somewhat extravagant," added Mr. Tenant, " to feed your pet birds on gold pencils, at five dollars each." " 0, what plagues men are ! " Returning from the gardens, our friends sought rest, for they had had a wearisome day. In the evening Walter and Minnie staid in their rooms, and amused themselves as best they could, while the two gentlemen went out to find some kind of night entertainment. On turning the corner of a street, they saw a pla- card on the wall, informing the public that a mass missionary meeting was to be held that evening at Great George Street Chapel, where the very venerable Dr. Raffles preaches. Ex- GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. 67 pecting to hear some of the celebrated men of Liverpool speak, they directed their steps to the church, which is an elegant structure, the prin- cipal elevation of which consists of a semicircu- lar portico of fluted columns, reminding one of the temple of Jupiter Stator, surmounted by a dome, and occupying a most beautiful situation ; being, internally and externally, a most imposing edifice. They entered the church, and were fortunate enough to hear two of the most cele- brated men of Liverpool. One of them was Dr. Raffles himself. Mr. Percy had long known of this eloquent clergyman, the successor and biographer of the lamented Spencer, who, while bathing in the Mersey, was drowned, one of the brightest lights of the English pulpit being extinguished suddenly. On the present occa- sion, Dr. Raffles made a speech — a venerable man, with his head whitening, yet speaking with a mighty power ; speaking until his own soul glows with his theme ; until the perspiration stands in great drops upon his noble brow ; un- til the audience lean forward, as his grand periods roll out ; until each man clutches his purse, ready to pour its contents into the plate when it comes ; until breathing is almost sup- pressed, and the whole assembly is melted, or thrilled to the most intense emotion. 68 THE PERCY FAMILY. He was followed by Hugh Stowell Brown, a man as popular as Dr. Raffles, but of a different style entirely. He made a telling speeeh, and the interest with which he was watched, and the enthusiasm with which the sentences, as they fell from his lips, were caught up, showed the esti- mation in which he was held. The gentlemen were surprised to find that all the telling things were applauded, even in a re- ligious meeting, which at times was as uproarious as a political convocation in our country could be. The speeches were interrupted with con stant cries of " Hear, hear ; " and the stamping of feet and clapping of hands seemed to Mr. Percy to be quite out of place in the house of God. However, he was very glad to hear these two celebrities of the Liverpool pulpit, the latter of whom has done much good and gained much influence by lecturing to the working men. On his return from the meeting, he found Walter writing in his journal, and Minnie asleep on the sofa, the latter of whom was soon sent away to bed, and the former read what he had written in his diary to his father for correction ; and so ended a laborious day in Liverpool, There were other objects of interest in the place, which were visited on the following day. And among these is worthy of mention the new GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. C9 St. George's Hall, a noble public building erected for musical entertainments, and justly an object of pride to the citizens of the place The floors are marble, set in beautiful, many-colored mo- saics ; the walls and ceilings are profusely and appropriately ornamented ; the decorated pillars and arches create a fine effect, while one of the largest and noblest organs in the world, which cost thirty-five thousand dollars, pours out its rich, liquid music over the people. The children, who had never seen any such hall before, were very much pleased, and Walter rapidly took pencil sketches of the end which contained the organ. " Is there any hall in our country so splendid as tliis, father ? " asked Minnie. " No, my child, I think not." " Why not ? " " Because our plain people think that plainer structures best subserve the public good, The price of evening entertainments in such a hall as this would be so great, that few would attend them, and the property would be unprofitable. " " Shall we see many halls like this ? " " Not many halls like this ; but before you re- turn to Boston, you will see buildings such as you have never imagined." Having seen this great hall, it was suggested that a jaunt be taken to Birkenhead, which rises 70 THE PERCY FAMILY. from the banks of the Mersey, nearly opposite Liverpool. The suggestion was adopted, and soon in a ferry boat the river had been crossed, and our friends were wandering about in Birk- enhead. " This seems to be a new town," said Walter. " Yet," replied Mr. Percy, " forty years ago the whole population was less than fifty persons, and now they are numbered by scores of thou- sands," As they passed along, they found Birkenhead to resemble less an English than an American city, and it seemed to them to be to Liverpool what Brooklyn is to New York — the sleeping chamber of a metropolis. Many wealthy men who do business in Liverpool reside at Birken- head, which is more quiet than the giant city on the other bank of the Mersey. It is well laid out, has its parks, and churches, and objects of interest, all of which our party visited. None of them were of more interest than the ruins of an ancient abbey founded in the year 1190 by the Baron of Dunham, Hainan Massie, and long occupied by monks, who trod its pavements, and made its walls echo with their songs. Several arches, pillars, and other evidences of the former beauty of the structure which now lies in ruins were seen. An examination of the town occu- GLIMPSES OP LIVERPOOL. 71 pied most of the day, and the party concluded to dine before returning ; and as the eating houses were plenty, they found one where they were well accommodated, and dined at a much cheaper rate than they could have done at the hotel. The dinner over, they all repaired to the ferry, just as the shades of evening began to gather. Walter remarked that the ferry arrangements were the most perfect he had ever seen, and in- stead of being built as cheaply as possible, as some of ours are, the piers, and tide walls, and gateways seemed to have been constructed with an eye to elegance, rather than to economy, and indulged in some remarks not highly compli- mentary to American ferries. His father checked him with the remark, that this ferry belongs to the town of Birkenhead, and not to private own- ers or a corporation, and that all the profits are expended in beautifying the surroundings. " Yes," added Mr. Tenant, " Walter must re- member that our country is young ; we have less wealth, and cannot expect the perfection in these things which is attained in England." Thus conversing, the party crossed the ferry, and walked up to the hotel, where the evening was spent in social intercourse with several American friends who were in town at that time. Some days were occupied in viewing the place 72 THE PERCY FAMILY. and becoming acquainted with its people and institutions, and one bright morning the com- pany started for Ireland, going on the way a little into the interior. A couple of cabs took the whole party with their luggage to the station house, a magnificent edifice, the front of which, with its thirty-six three-quarter Corinthian columns, and its grand arched doorways, cost thirty-five thousand dol- lars, which, added to the cost of the rest of the structure, with its glass roof and heavy finish, makes the building a very expensive one. As here we are to take the cars, it may be well to describe the railroads and rail car- riages, which differ from ours. Minnie made herself quite merry over them, when she saw them, but probably had some reason to think afterwards that all the advantage was not on our side. There are three classes of cars, and for either of them the traveller purchases his ticket, as he may choose. Having secured his ticket, he is generally sent into a separate room, where he finds others who are to ride in the same class cars. If he be a third-class passenger, he does not see those who are to ride in the first and second-class cars. They too are shut up, to await the hour of starting. When this arrives, the first-class passengers are taken from the room GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. 73 where they have been held in durance, and seated comfortably in the cars without noise or jostling, and the doors are closed, and, in some instances, locked. Then the second-class pas- sengers arc seated, and at length the third. The cars are short, being only about eight or ten feet long and six wide, and are frequently di- vided by a partition as high as the head of a person sitting ; or, if they are longer, are divided into separate apartments. The first class are well arranged, well fitted, and comfortable; but the fare in them is so high, that few besides the nobility and the wealthy ride in them. The second-class cars are destitute of cushions, and almost every other comfort. On the hard seat, witli the straight back, the passenger is com- pelled to sit, with his feet covered up with boxes and baggage, gazing upon the placards which are pasted up on the sides and ends of the car. Generally these cars have two seats, each hold- ing five persons — one half looking into the faces and trampling upon the feet of the other half. The window, or ventilator, as it should be called, is a small, square aperture in the door, like the window of a coach, and generally has a slide of glass, but sometimes only of wood, to keep out the rain In these cars we do not have the com- forts that we find in our own cars. There is no 74 THE PERCY FAMILY. opportunity to walk about, and scarcely any to stand up, some of the cars not being high enough for a tall man. The third-class cars are somewhat longer, and have rough seats, like some of our baggage cars, and are no more comfortable or convenient. The fare is higher for this class than in our country for the best, and more ride in this than in either of the other classes. The distances are generally short, and people sacrifice ease to economy. The railroad arrangements are all much safer than among us. The roads are better built, the tracks are better laid, and there is a confidence which one never feels when in the express trains on the American side of the Atlantic. But to return to our friends whom w.e left in the station house. Seating themselves in the cars, the train started out through a dark, smutty tunnel, which is a most wonderful arti- ficial excavation beneath the town. This tunnel is six thousand six hundred and ninety feet long, seventy-five feet wide, and fifty-one feet high, and passes directly under the place, while over it rise churches, houses, halls, and places of trade and industry. He who had never rode in a rail car would hardly be willing to begin by riding through this subterranean passage. The op- pressive darkness, which can be felt ; the cold, GLIMPSES OF LIVERPOOL. 75 a jmp chill, which pierces to the bones ; the glaring lamp on the engine, and the screaming of the iron horse, — all render the five minutes spent under the streets and temples of the great mart of commerce most unpleasant and dis- agreeable. As they went on, Minnie clung to her father, who felt a trembling of her body, as the cars rolled swiftly into increasing darkness, and she hardly dared to breathe, so fearful was the pas- sage through ; and not until they emerged, and began to dash along in open sunlight, did she breathe freely. The party arrived at the old town of Chester, after a circuitous ride of some hours, and a stop at one or two places on the way. Chester is but a half hour's ride from Liverpool ; but our friends preferred to take one or two interesting towns in the course, and it was high noon when they found themselves on the way to an inn in this ancient place. " Stop," said Walter, when some distance from the station house. " What for, my son ? " asked his father. " I have left my new gutta percha cane in the cars." " How careless ! " said Minnie. " Wait, and I will run back," said the lad. 76 THE PERCY FAMILY He had purchased a new gutta percha walk- ing stick, finely mounted with silver, just before starting, and had left it in the car ; and when he reached the station house the train was gone, and he did not find the article, or gain any in- formation as to what had become of it. " Never mind, Walter," said his father ; " I will buy you a new one. But you must be more careful in future." Walter inwardly resolved that that should be the last thing he would lose if carefulness could do any good ; and on the party went. WALTER S TIME TABLE, (See page 62.) A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 77 Chatter IV. A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. AN antique looking inn, of the old style and time, standing in one of the proudest streets of Chester, had a look so inviting that our trav- ellers entered and dined there. In an old wain- scoted room, with dim and venerable pictures on the walls, the table was set, and without much effort of imagination Walter put himself back a hundred or two years, into the old times when every innkeeper was a portly man, rotund and merry, or a bonnie woman, with a pretty daughter ; and every inn had some fancy name, varying from Black Bear to Green Dragon, from White Swan to Black Ean the other side. These walls are a little more A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 81 than one and three fourth miles long, and every foot is rich with historic interest. Britons, Saxons, and Danes have shed their blood upon them ; and they stand to-day, after many cen turies have beat upon them, monuments of hu man passion and the fates of war. No stranger ever goes into Chester without taking a walk upon these walls, and no traveller who has once walked around will ever forget the strange im- pressions made upon his mind. Commencing the circuit, under the guidance of an old man, who was born in Chester, and who told Walter he had never been Um miles away from the town, they were pointed to the place where once stood the " Saddler's Tower," which, falling into a dangerous state of decay, was taken down nearly a bundled years ago. It was once the meeting place of a company of saddlers, and derived its name from tin's circum- stance. A few paces on, and a majestic tower rose before them. The old man said, " This is called the Phoenix Tower. Hundreds of years ago, it was known as Newton Tower." " Why is it called Phoenix Tower now ? " asked Walter. " Because," said the guide, " the figure of a phoenix is over the front of it. Do you see it there ? " vol. I. 6 82 THE PERCY FAMILY. " Yes, and I see an inscription. What is it ? " Walter read aloud, — KING CHARLES STOOD ON THIS TOWER SEPTEMBER XXIV. MDCXLV . AND SAW HIS ARMY DEFEATED ON ROWTON MOOR. The guide then gave a long description of the battle. Charles had suffered several terrible defeats ; his army had been driven from point to point, and now lie stood gazing upon the battle which was to test his strength, and, perhaps, de- cide the fate of his kingdom. He waited not long ; the contest became more terrible, and soon the shouts of the soldiers of Cromwell an- nounced to him that his cause was lost, and that he must flee. Soon his soldiers came crowding in upon him, followed by the psalm-singing le- gions of the Protector. Tli is was the account given by the guide, and Walter said he would remember the statement, and compare it with the facts, and see if it was correct ; which he afterwards did, and found the old gentleman was not wholly right in his de- scription, as the guides are not always expected to be. From the top of this tower a fine view was A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 83 obtained, and tbe gentlemen stood admiring it ; but Minnie and Walter plied the old gentleman with questions about the battle. They were ab sorbed in that, and the guide, seeing their ear- nestness, told them he would answer any ques- tions they might ask about it. " What did the king do," said Minnie, " when he saw the men run ? " " He walked slowly and sadly down over the steps by which you came in, leaning on the arm of an honorable citizen of the place." " How long did he stay here ? " " He escaped the next day, and went to an- other part of the kingdom." " What became of him ? " "He was executed — beheaded within three years afterwards." " And what did the opposing army do when the king had gone ? " " They staid in front of the city until famine and starvation compelled the governor to surrender ; then the gate was opened, the soldiers marched in, destroyed the fortress, defaced the public works, and did much mis- chief." Leaving the tower, they came to the north gate, and the children, on looking over the wall, saw that a street passed under it, and that over 84 THE PERCY FAMILY. the street was a noble arched gate, amid the stones of which the humble ivy clung — a gate- way which, in years past, had admitted kings and conquerors to the ancient city. It was curious to look down upon the queer houses be- low, with their peculiar roofs and sides, looking as if they belonged to a dead age. Next they reached the watch lower, called Morgan's Mount, on which, in times of war, a battery is placed ; and woe to the enemy that comes within reach of its guns. Walter was anxious to know whence the tower derived its name, but the guide could not tell him. While the rest went on, he ran up the winding stair- case, to an open space on the top, and had another fine view of the country, at which he gazed with so much interest, that he almost for- got that he was alone, and was called to his senses by the shout of his father, who wished to hurry him along. He found the rest of the party in front of the Goblin Tower, a semicircu- lar structure, now called Pemberton's Parlor. " What is this ? " said Walter, as he came up to his friends. " The Goblin Tower," answered the old guide. " Why do they call it so ? " The old man then related a long ghost story, A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 85 from which he said the tower derived its name. But as such foolish stories never should be told, we will not repeat what he said. It is foolish for any one to believe in ghost stories, and little boys have far more reason to be afraid of wicked men, and even of their own wicked hearts, than of ghosts and goblins. Next the attention of the party was attracted by some modern baths, which were reached by a flight of stone steps. The day was warm, and Minnie was weary, and so it was agreed that the company should sit a while on the wall, resting and enjoying the prospect, while Walter in- dulged in the luxury of a bath, which was ob- tained for a penny, or two cents. When he re- turned they started on, and soon came to two towers, near each other, one called Bonewal- des-thorne's Tower, and the other the Water Tower. Walter tried to pronounce the name of the first, but made poor work of it, and Minnie asked him if he was talking Dutch or Hindoo. Both of these towers are much shattered. The Puritan cannon was planted on Bruera's Hill, at a little distance, and these riddled towers tell of the mischief done by them. In them are kept many trophies of other days, which Walter and Minnie examined with much care. Here are rusty swords and daggers, with the blood of murder 86 . THE PERCY FAMILY. yet eating in ; here are trophies taken in battle, mingled with the peaceful evidences of better days. Thus the party went on, by the infirmary, and the city jail, the remains of Black Friars Monastery, the castle, and many other things which were odd and pleasing to the eye. They made a hasty visit to the armory of the castle, where they saw thirty thousand stands of arms. The children were amazed at this display, and Mr. Percy told them that these arms were kept here in time of peace, but if war should be de- clared, they would be taken to supply the sol- diers who would enlist. As they again stood on the wall, the guide said, " Here you see the River Dee flowing along by the town." " Where ? " inquired Walter. " Why, right before you, my little man." " What, this insignificant stream here ? " " You must remember, my son," said Mr. Percy, " that the rivers of England are not like those in America. Here a stream which in our country would be too small for a name, is digni- fied with the appellation of ' river,' and is looked upon as an important feature of the country." " I have read so much about the ' noble Dee,' A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 8? that I thought it would be like the Hudson, or, at least, as large as Charles River." " Well, if you don't like the river, look at that bridge, and see how you like that," said the guide, pointing to a bridge thrown across the stream. " It has but one arch, but that is the largest stone arch in the world." " How much is the span ? " asked Mr. Percy. " Two hundred feet," was the reply. " What do you call it ? " " Grosvenor's Bridge, and it cost thirty thou- sand pounds." Soon they reached a flight of steps, leading down from the wall, and the attention of the children was directed to them. " There," said the guide, " are the Wishing Steps." " Wishing Steps ! " said Walter ; " what are they called so for ? " " I will tell you, as it was told me long ago. If any person will wish for any thing, though it be a crown or a throne, a kingdom or a fortune, And run up these steps once, and down again, and then up to the top the second time, without taking breath, he will have his wish." Walter went to the foot of the steps, and thought over what most he wished, and then started up the steps ; but when he arrived at the top the first time, he found himself out of 88 THE PERCY FAMILY. breath, and, with considerable vehemence, de- clared the steps " a cheat, for nobody could go over them twice without taking breath." As they went on, laughing at Walter for his pains, they came to the place where they first mounted the wall, and, passing down the long flight of steps, found themselves in the street below. Minnie was amused at the names of the streets. She found them so curious that she wrote some of them down on a paper — such as Watergate Street, Common Hall Street, Linen Hall Street. And then there were many lanes, such as Love Lane, Fleshmongers Lane, (so called because many butchers formerly resided there,) the Old Law Lane, and many others. And then there were roivs, — such as Paradise Row, Brokenshin Row, Pepper Alley Row. There are " places " running in from the street, and one of these Minnie noticed was called " Puppet Show Entry." All these curious names are de- rived from something in the past, which now has no existence ; but the names remain, as curious as the city itself. The houses of Chester should be described. Many of them were built centuries ago, and have all the characteristics of the olden times. They are erected so as to protect the sidewalk in front, the second story projecting over the A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 89 street, and supported on pillars, so that a man may walk the whole length of a street in a rainy day, looking into the windows of the shops, and not be wet. These rude arcades furnish shelter from the storm, and protect from the burning rays of the summer sun. In many of these houses the frames are seen, being on the outside, and filled in with plaster or cement. A house thus finished makes a grotesque and lively appearance, the plaster be- ing drab or white, and the beams, posts, braces, and other timbers, being painted red or green. Some of the modern houses are built in this style to conform to the old ones, which are fall- ing to pieces with age. It is not seldom that the fronts of these houses are profusely ornamented. There is an old structure known as Bishop Lloyd's House, which is very old, its history run- ning back many hundreds of years. The whole front is covered with carvings of Scripture scenes, and though ancient and unique, it stands as a wonderful specimen of art ; and the party lingered long before it, gazing on it with admi- ration. In passing from spot to spot, they came to the Stanley House, so called because a family of that name built it for a city palace. On its front are carved the figures 1591, indicating the 90 THE PERCY FAMILY. date of its erection. It has three elaborately carved gables, and is probably one of the oldest timber houses in the world ; and many go to look at it with interest and pleasure. They came to the " Yatch Inn," and as Wal- ter looked upon its venerable walls, he asked his father what there was about the inn that made it seem familiar. " I don't know, my son." " Well, I have heard of this inn somewhere, and there is some history connected with it which I cannot now recall." Mr. Tenant assisted the memory of Walter, and asked him if he had not heard of the anec- dote of Dean Swift, the witty, eccentric, and sacrilegious ecclesiastic, which is found in the hand-books of Chester. " No, I never did. What is it ? " " Why, it is said that the dean came to Ches- ter, and stopped at the ' Yatch Inn,' and from his rooms sent out for a number of clergymen to come and dine with him. They did not know the dean, or, not caring to make his friendship, did not come. The table was spread, and groaned beneath the luxuries placed upon it, but the dean was the only person to sit down to it. He was chagrined and shamed by the treatment, and scratched upon the window ODS PROVIDENCE HOU A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 93 of his room the following couplet, which re- mained for a long time : — * Rotten without and mouldering within, This place and its clergy are both near akin.' " There was another house in Chester that in- terested the whole party very much ; and even Minnie, who said she hated old buildings and fallen churches, could not but view it with emo- tion. In Watergate Street stands the old timber house on the front of which is a very striking inscription — GOD'S PROVIDENCE IS MINE INHERITANCE. The house is called " God's Providence House," and the children were very anxious to know its history. The old guide told them the story, which affected them very much. He told them that in the year 1652, a disease called the " Sweating Plague " was prevalent in England, and Chester was dreadfully scourged by it. It appeared mostly among men, but few women being smitten by it. In that dreadful year, about one thousand persons died in this little place of this malignant disease. The city had been ravaged by war, but this new besieger seemed invincible, and the noblest citizens were hurried 94 THE PERCY FAMILY. into eternity. Silence reigned in the streets, and the grass grew where, until now, the dust was pressed by the tramp of man and beast. One house, that now before us, was un visited by the King of Terrors. It was occupied by a Quaker family, and was the only one in the whole place where death had not set his fatal signet. This one family alone escaped the pestilence that walked in darkness and wasted at noonday. The house now bears the inscription above men- tioned, and is an affecting illustration of that providence that wrote " passover " on the door- posts of this one single habitation, when all others in that city were scourged with death. They found an old lady sitting in the door- way, plying her needle, and Mr. Percy addressed her thus : " Do you have many visitors to see this house ? " " Yes, scores every day." " Then you make it profitable." " 0, no ; they do not come in, but content themselves with gazing on the outside." " Do you know who had the inscription carved on the front of your house ? " " The good man who lived here when the plague prevailed. He did not do as many others do when spared by Heaven's bounty and be- neficence." A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 95 " All, what is that ? " " Forgot iti a day God's providence. " " Good woman, yon are quite a preacher." " No ; God's providence preaches from the inscription on this honse ; but there are few that profit by the preaching." Mr. Percy put a shilling into Walter's hand, who gave it to the woman, who smiled her thanks, and the party passed on until they came to " the cathedral," which occupies a spot on which the Romans once built a temple to Apol- lo, and where, still later, had stood an object of veneration — a Druid temple. An abbey, in which devout monks chanted and sang, took the place of these, and in 1402 this gorgeous, majestic cathedral rose in massive grandeur and elegant proportions. It is built of red sand, stone, and time has been rounding its edges> until they look now like huge, red, round paving stones, set in the wall. The niches, which abound on the outside of the building, are now tcnantless, the images and effigies that once filled them having fallen out ; and the time-worn aspect of the whole makes an im- pression on the beholder which he does not soon forget. Within, the huge dimensions, the Tudor arches, the beautiful stained glass windows, 96 THE PERCY FAMILY. monuments to the memory of the illustrious dead, — to Dean Swift, John Moore Napier, and many others, — the massive stone screen of the choir, the stairs of heavy oak, the various chap- els, and all the adornments of a cathedral, are grand and impressive as one can imagine. The nave is one hundred and sixty feet long, seventy- four and a half feet wide, and seventy-eight feet high ; and standing in such a place, one can easily transport himself hack to other days, can call up the olden times when abbots ruled and monks sang beneath this immense roof. The furniture of this cathedral is very rich and elegant. The pulpit is of stone, wondrously carved ; the Episcopal throne is composed of relics from the Abbey of St. Werburgh, the pious daughter of Queen Ermenilde, and which are said by the Papal authorities to have per- formed astonishing miracles ; and all the various objects of interest are very attractive to the stranger. Walter had never seen a cathedral before, and his admiration was unbounded. He stood looking upon the huge arches, or walked through the transept, or gazed into the cloisters with solemn awe, while Minnie was nervous and im- patient to be gone. " Come, Walter," said his father ; " we must €0." A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 97 " 0, I could stay here a whole day. I never saw any thing so grand as this rich tracery and these beautiful canopies. I would like to stay and study out the intricate designs on these windows, and decipher the characters on the tombs." " But we have not time for that ; unless we go now, we shall be obliged to leave some other interesting place unvisited." As they passed out, Mr. Percy dropped into the hands of the old sexton a piece of money, that being the fee expected of those for whom he opened the doors. They then repaired to St. John's Church, in a most superb location, and very ancient in its appearance. It was founded by Ethelrcd in 689, in response to a vision which he had, in which God told him to build a church on the spot where, in the first hunt, he should take a white hind. He was not disobedient to what he considered a heavenly communication, and this spot was selected as the result, and the church erected, and conse- crated to St. John the Baptist. In 1057 the edifice was repaired, and strengthened, and made more beautiful. In 1468 the steeple, a huge tower, fell down of its own weight, com- ing through the building to the earth. It was rebuilt, and again in 1572 it came crashing vol. i. 7 98 THE PERCY FAMILY. down, and was reerected on the west end of the nave, and stands there to this day, one hundred and fifty feet high. The hands that reared this noble pile were long ago palsied in death, and moulded to dust, but their work endures. The main part of the church still stands, but in so dilapidated a condition that the bells in the tower are seldom, if ever, rung, lest the jar should bring the whole structure down in one promiscuous ruin. The stones which compose the edifice have been rounded at the edges by time, like those in the cathedral, so that they will hardly hold together. And yet wonderful art is seen in this old edifice and the adjoining ruins ; lofty arches, noble pillars, well-turned windows, letting in the " dim religious light," and the steeple towering towards the skies, im- press the mind of the beholder with veneration and awe. On the west side of the tower is a niche, in which stands a statue of Ethelred, petting the " white hind " which he saw in his vision. When the tower fell, this statue was uninjured, and now is an object of much interest. " Do you suppose that God came to Ethelred in a dream, father ? " asked Minnie. "No, my child ; he might have had such a dream, but God does not now communicate with men in that wav." A WALK ON CHESTER WALLS. 99 " And do not the people, by keeping this statue here, show that they believe the sto- ry ? " " No ; for the inhabitants of Chester are very intelligent, and they only wish to perpetuate what they believe to be a mere fancy of the king." The party left the church, it being near time for the cars to start. They walked to the sta- tion house, which is a very fine edifice, where Walter found the cloaks and umbrellas of the party, which he had left at the " Left Baggage Office." Connected with this station, and with almost all on the English railroads, there is a deposit office, where articles may be left until called for. On payment of a penny or two, the article is taken, and a check given for it, and the office is responsible for any loss. This is a great convenience for the stranger who wishes to stop in a town a few hours, but does not wish to go to a hotel. In the " Refreshment Room " of this depot, Walter found a long table covered with writing materials — pens, ink, and paper; and having purchased some views of Chester on letter sheets, he sat down to record the events of the day, and we will open the book and read what he sajs. 100 THE PERCY FAMILY. Chester, April, 1858. A visit to Chester is worth a voyage across the ocean ; and the day I spent there will long be remembered. The old wall, and the churches, God's Providence House, and the funny old streets, have been daguerrotyped upon my memory ; and if this was the only place we had to visit, it would be worth the voyage. I do not like to leave the place ; its memories crowd upon me, and call after me, and I would like to stay long amid these old scenes, the glory of which is in some degree gone. " But many a relic still is left To shadow forth the past." " Cars coming, Walter," interrupted the writ- ing, and soon the whole party were settled back in one of those luxurious, first-class English cars, where a man can sleep at night almost as well as he can on his quiet bed at home. The door was locked, the train began to move, the old towers of Chester faded away, and soon the mountains of North Wales appeared in view. RIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. 101 Chapter V. RIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. " TtT^ nave J ust crosse d tne nne mto Wales," » » said Mr. Tenant, as the train rolled on. " How large is Wales, Mr. Tenant ? " asked Walter. " About as large as New Jersey." " How do the Welsh people differ from the English ? " " In several respects. The language differs, the habits and customs of the people differ, and one would hardly suppose he was so near the great heart of England, while journeying in Wales. The Welsh are the descendants of the ancient Britons, and their language has Celtic peculiarities." " The oldest son of Queen Victoria is called the Prince of Wales. I have often wondered why — can you tell me ? " "0, yes, I can ; and the story is a short one. In 1'27G, Edward I. became involved in a war with Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, and finally, having conquered the Welsh people, annexed the 102 THE PERCY FAMILY. territory to his crown, and made his oldest son Prince of Wales. This son was born in Caer- narvon Castle, and afterwards became King of England. And ever since then, the oldest son of the English sovereign has held the title of ' Prince of Wales,' and the distinction is little more than nominal." " Suppose the sovereign of England has no son — what then ? " " The oldest daughter is created Princess of Wales." " I have heard that Wales was a hilly coun- try." " Very hilly, as you will see as we go on. It has some very high mountains, among which is Mount Snowdon, which is three thousand five hundred and seventy-one feet high." " Is not Wales well supplied with old castles ? " " It has some, and we shall see a few of them as we go on, if the night does not set in." Thus conversing, they rode on through a very fine and picturesque country, by many very pleasant looking towns, and within sight of many old castles. Walter made acquaintance with an old gentleman who had come into the car, and of him he gained much reliable informa- tion as they progressed. " Did you ever hear of Christmas Evans ? " asked Walter. RIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. 103 " 0, yes, my lad." " Did you ever hear him preach ? " " Many a time." " Was he as eloquent as the few extracts of his discourses which I have seen would indicate ? " " He was a very eloquent man, and lived about ten miles from the place where we now are, and his memory is much cherished by the Welsh people, among whom he lived and la- bored." Minnie called the attention of Walter to the fact that the farther they went, the poorer the people seemed to be. The cottages along the way had very poor walls, and simple thatched roofs, and in the fields women by scores were at work. The party arrived at Menai Straits just as the dark mantles of night were falling on the earth. These straits separate Wales from the Island of Anglesea, and are spanned by two bridges of much note. The Suspension Bridge was the first of the kind built in Europe ; six years were required for its construction, and its total cost was about one million dollars. " How does this Suspension Bridge compare with that over Niagara River, below the Falls ? " asked Walter of his father. " That cost only four hundred thousand dol- lars." 104 THE PERCY FAMILY. »o>8>4oo " Did the same architect design them both ? " " No, the Niagara Bridge was designed and constructed by Mr. Roebling, an American, and this by Mr. Telford." Over the Menai Straits is also thrown the fa- mous Britannia Tubular Bridge, one of the won- ders of the world ; and the cars dashed into its hollow passage, and emerging on the other side, stopped to give the passengers time to go back and see it. " What is the Tubular Bridge, father ? " asked Minnie. " It is an iron tube, stretched across the straits, for the cars to go through." " An iron bridge ? " " Yes, it is constructed of plates of iron, about half an inch thick, and two or three feet square." " How are they put together ? " " They are heavily and closely riveted togeth- er, making a square tube, wide enough for two tracks, on which two trains can meet, and high enough for the smoke pipe of the locomotive. Strong iron knees and braces add to the strength of the structure." " Does not the bridge sag some ? " " No, when the most heavy-laden freight train rolls over it, it is not even seen to vibrate." " How long is the bridge ? " RIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. 107 " I do not know the whole length of the bridge, but the tube is about three hundred feet, and is about one hundred feet above the water, and rests on two substantial piers." " How did they manage to get it up into its place ? " " By some hydraulic process, I believe." They had now reached the bridge, and found it to be indeed a most remarkable structure — an iron tube, of plates riveted in three thick- nesses to appear as one, yet to have the strength of three, resting on its piers as firmly as if the span was but a dozen yards. " And where are we now ? " asked Walter. " We are on the Island of Anglesea." " Is that island a part of Wales ? " " It forms one county of Wales." " How large is it ? " " I think it is about twenty-four miles long, and seventeen broad, and has a population of about thirty-seven thousand souls." " And how wide is this strait ? " " About half a mile, I should judge." Having seen the tube, and finding the night so dark that little else could be distinguished, they entered the cars, where the conversation about bridges was resumed. "I remember seeing it stated," remarked 108 THE PERCY FAMILY. Mr. Tenant, " that over the River Rhone, near Avignon, in South France, the seat of the popes when they were banished from Rome, and where their old palace, used for a prison, still stands, there is the Bridge of the ' Holy Spirit,' — the somewhat inappropriate and singular title of one of the longest stone bridges in the world, — built six hundred years ago, the first bridge ever thrown across the Rhone. It has twenty-six arches, and is the noblest structure of its kind in France. It was built by a religious society called " The Brethren of the Bridge," and their object was the protection of travellers from the banditti, who, acting as ferrymen, robbed their victims, and threw them into the river." " Do you know," asked Walter, " which the oldest bridge in England is ? " " That at Croyland, in Lincolnshire, is the oldest." " When was it built ? " " In the year 860 ; and none but foot passen- gers go over it." " Which is the longest bridge ': " asked Minnie. " The longest in England ? " " Yes, sir," " That over the Trent, at Staffordshire, which is built of freestone." " How long is that ? " RIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. 109 " It is fifteen hundred and forty-five feet long, lias thirty-four arches, and was built in the twelfth century." "How long is the famous London Bridge, of which we havj heard so much ? " 44 Only nine hundred and ninety-five feet long. " You will see," added he, " when you get to London, some of the finest bridges in the world. Those which cross the Thames are very finely built, and you will admire them." The ride from Chester had been so pleasant, and the time passed away so quickly, that Walter was sorry when he arrived at Holyhead, where the party were to take steamer for Dublin. Though it was late at night, it was resolved to go on, as a steamer would start in an hour or two. They left the cars, and were standing in the station house, when a voice was heard : — " Supper all ready ! hot, hot supper." It is strange what a voracious appetite is given one by travelling ; and though Minnie had taken an ample collation a little while before, she now declared she was " hungry as a bear." A.nd Walter said that there was " not food enough in town for him" — a specimen of ex- travagant speaking, on the part of each, which sounds very foolish in people, young or old. 110 THE PERCY FAMILY. The party stumbled through darkness and obstacles into a very comfortable restaurant, where they found all the accommodations for supper, which was relished by all. As they sat at the table, Mr. Percy asked his daughter, — " What do you think mamma is doing at home, Minnie ? " " Why, she is sound asleep, of course." " What do you think, Walter ? " " I suppose she is taking tea, and thinking of us." " Taking tea at this time of night ! That would be funny ! " cried Minnie. " She is asleep, for it is nearly midnight." " Do you not remember what we talked about the other day, when you thought your watch was not a good one ? " asked Mr. Percy. " 0, yes, yes, I forgot ; well, let me see ; it is just about seven o'clock in Boston." " Suppose, Minnie, you could send a tele- gram to your mother," said Mr. Tenant ; " what time would she get it ? " " I think, if the ocean telegraph was laid, she would get our message as soon as it started." " She would get it some hours before it started," said Walter. " Worse and worse, Walter," replied Minnie ; " by and by you will begin to argue that RIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. Ill we shall get home before we started to come out." "I see, sis, that you need light." " All I get from you is darkness on this sub- ject. Do sit down some time and explain, for when I meet some one who does not know so much as I do, I wish to appear wise, as my learned brother does," was the sarcastic reply. Walter would have replied, but his father checked him with a kind word, which changed the subject of conversation, and the supper ended without any more sharp shooting between the young people. Mr. Percy and Mr. Tenant went out to see if they could form any idea of the place they were in, but came back to the children without know- ing whether the town was large or small, for the night was dark, and a drizzly rain and dense fog had set in, and no discoveries could be made. 112 THE PERCY FAMILY Chapter VI. CROSSING THE CHANNEL. " OTEAMER ready ! all aboard ! " called our ^ friends from the shelter of the friendly restaurant ; and they were soon on board a mis- erable steamboat, used for conveying freight and cattle across the Channel. The regular steamer had gone some hours before the arrival of the late train. A glance was sufficient to assure Mr. Percy that the comforts of that night were few, and that the crossing would be tedious. The whole party stood a few moments on deck, debating as to the best plans for securing a night's rest ; and as the ponderous wheels began to move, they went below. Here they were in- formed that no berths were provided, but the settees could be used for sleeping purposes. Mr. Percy at once collected two or three cush- ions, and made a comfortable bed for Minnie, who, wrapping her travelling dress close about her, lay down to sleep. A place was next found for Walter, who had his carpet bag for a pillow, and his father's heavy coat as a coverlet. CROSSING THE CHANNEL. 113 Two or three men were already stowed away in the cabin, and Mr. Tenant took a settee, one end of which was already occupied, and Mr. Percy found a comfortable sofa, on which he cast himself. But they were destined to have but little sleep. One of the passengers was an old English officer, who, after our friends were well settled, went into the particulars of a story which he was relating when broken in upon by Mr. Percy and his party. The story related to the wonderful escapes and the dreadful dangers of his military life. The fountain from which he drew his facts seemed to be exhaustless ; one thing led into another, and his tale of mili- tary wonders, which would have astonished Na- poleon or Wellington, seemed interminable. He had been in the Crimea, and was present when General McMahon planted the French flag on the very summit of the Malakhoff, while the dying and the dead lay in heaps all around. At one time he was wounded on the field, and left for dead ; at another time he was surrounded with foes, and, with the valor of desperation, cut his way through, and es- caped ; at another time he led a line of soldiers against overwhelming numbers, and came off victorious. The more the old man talked, the VOL. i. 8 114 THE PERCY FAMILY. more enthusiastic he became, until the patience of Mr. Tenant was exhausted. " Look here, my friend," he cried, at length ; " did they sleep any in the Crimea ? " " 0, yes, we slept, but had sentinels out." " Well, if you talked as much there as now, I do not see how any body got any sleep." " I profess to be a gentleman, and know when to speak and when to stop." " I should judge you to be a volcano of words; and if you have any mercy upon us poor fel- lows, who have been travelling all day, do stop, and let us get some sleep." And then he added, " I do not mean to be rude, sir, but really we would like to go to sleep." The old man drew his head down into his shaggy coat, and said no more ; and soon the whole company gave evidence of being in pro- found slumber. Walter found it to be a tedious, restless night. His hard couch did not do much to rest his weary limbs, and he awoke again and again from a disturbed and unrefreshing sleep, with troublous and exciting dreams. At one time he dreamed that he was at home, and his father was away in Europe, and news came of his death, wringing with sorrow the heart of his CROSSING THE CHANNEL. 115 mother. Again he dreamed he was on the ocean, and the vessel came in collision with a dreadful iceberg, and was dashed to pieces, and through a long, dark night, and a cold and dreary day, he floated on a huge lump of ice, that crumbled with every wave that dashed against it. At length the whole company were startled with a terrible shriek from one of the sleepers, who, oppressed with nightmare, raised a terrific yell, that brought every man to his feet. The attitude of the company was somewhat ludi- crous. A dim light shone in the cabin, and half a dozen persons, some with their coats thrown off, others with handkerchiefs bound around their heads, stood looking at each other, ;*.nd say- ing, " What is it ? " " Father, father, is the steamer sinking c i " cried Minnie. " That is too bad ! " was the exclamation of Mr. Tenant. " Haw, haw, haw," laughed the old soldier. " Come, friend Tenant, no more sleep." said Mr. Percy. All this time the unconscious cause of this commotion was lying on the bench, breathing hard, but unmindful of the scene before him. Walter, when he found there was no trovhte, 116 THE PERCY FAMILY. lay down again, and tried to sleep, but found tbe tbing impossible ; and soon after, seeing his father go out of the cabin, he followed him on deck. The morning was just appearing in the east ; several large vessels were in sight, the royal mail steamer was just then going by, and in the distance the long, dark coast of hazy Ire- land could be seen. The morning was very fine ; the Channel, which is usually rough and boister- ous, was placid and smooth ; and the view around was charmingly beautiful. Soon Kingston was in view, a town named in honor of George IV., formerly called Ihmleary. It has a most excel- lent harbor, designed to afford a refuge for ves- sels in distress, and is a few miles from the city of Dublin. It occupies a very fine position, and around it are several interesting ruins. The old castle of Monktown, shattered by the assaults of time and war, is near at hand. The remains of Castle Bullock are close to the pier, and are visited by every one who lands at Kingston. The three castles of Dalkey, erected long ago for the defence of the coast, are situated at a little distance away, and the traveller from an- other land will find no want of objects of inter- est even on this rocky promontory of the Irish coast. A railroad is stretched from Kingston to Dublin, and the whole distance is lined with CROSSING THE CHANNEL. 117 pretty villas, thatched cottages, and the various indications of Irish life. Slowly sweeping by Kingston, the steamer rode into Dublin Bay, a beautiful sheet of water, into which the world-famed LifFey pours its tum- bling waves. The emotions of Walter were pe- culiar as he saw the monuments, steeples, and towers of Dublin in view. He had seen the Irish people as they exist in America, and had judged very wrongly of the Irish nation by these specimens, and was hardly prepared to see the capital of Ireland rising out of the waves, and crowning the shore as beautifully and gayly as his own Boston rises out of the Atlantic, and crowns the bay of Massachusetts. " 0, how beautiful ! " was his delighted ex- clamation, as he stood on the steamer's deck, and the successive scenes of interest passed be- fore him : and as the morning sun shone upon the city of O'Connell and the great men of whom he had read, he fairly clapped his hands for joy. " father," he cried, " I shall like Ireland ; I know I shall." " What makes you think so, my son ? " " Why, the hills look so green, and the sun looks so bright, and the morning seems to dawn so beautifully, that I know I shall like it." 118 THE PERCY FAMILY. " I suppose you will like it, because you will see old castles and ruins," said Minnie, " I thought so when I heard father telling you of those old castles out there on the headland — Monkey, Bullock, and Duckey castles I believe he called them. As for rne, I shall keep my likes until 1 get to Paris or Brussels." " Every one to his taste," said Walter, his face kindling with new enthusiasm, as the steamer came near the city, and the public buildings be- came more distinct. Soon the vessel touched the pier, and the whole company, with their carpet bags and bag- gage, leaped on shore, and stood on the soil of Dublin. THE IRISH CAPITAL. 11§ Chapter VII. THE IRISH CAPITAL. " \/\7^k^' they have ' dumped ' us down in » f Dublin, as the natives would say," said Mr. Tenant. " Certainly they have ; and where shall we go now ? " " Have you any hotel on your memorandum, Walter ? " asked Mr. Percy. " Yes, sir, I have the name of the Imperial, that some one has given me as an excellent house." Several men, who had been standing about, now appeared, and their purposes were evident at once. " Have a cab, sir ? " asked one. " Do you wish for a hotel ? " asked another. " Shall I carry your bags ? " inquired a third. " This way, this way ; I will show you to the best hotel," cried a fourth. " Stop, friends, stop ; which hotel is the best one ? " asked Mr. Percy. " The Bilton," cried one. 120 THE PERCY FAMILY. " The Imperial," cried another. " Reynolds," shouted a third. " Prince of Wales," cried a fourth. And one clutched the baggage, crying, " 1 drive to Bilton's ; " and another laid hold of the children, saying, " Get in, get in ; I drive to Gresham." Walter laughed ; Minnie was afraid ; Mr. Tenant, with a smile, said, " Friend Percy, make up your mind, and decide quickly." Mr. Percy, breaking from the crowd which by this time had gathered around, called a modest- looking young man, who stood with his cab at a little distance, and said to him, " Drive us to the Imperial." The hungry crowd at once fell back, and the young man, who had lost nothing by his mod- esty, gathered up the baggage, and assisting his passengers into his vehicle, cracked his whip, and they drove rapidly up into the city. Turn- ing into the beautiful Sackville Street, and pass- ing several fine edifices, the carriage drew up before the door of a comfortable-looking, quiet hotel. At once several porters ran out, and seized the baggage, and led the travellers in. They were seated in a comfortable parlor for a few minutes, when Mr. Percy was called to select his apartments. He found a suit of high-posted, lofty rooms, all of them somewhat THE IRISH CAPITAL. 121 gloomy, but very clean and airy, and at once engaged them at a very moderate sum. Breakfast was ordered, and while it was being prepared, the party attended to toilet duties, and in arranging their apartments, so as to make themselves comfortable during their stay. As the time they were to remain in Dublin was quite limited, every moment was to be im- proved ; and no sooner was breakfast finished than the day's work commenced. The land- lord, at the request of Mr. Percy, sent for a j anting car, in which they were to ride through the city. With this janting car the children were much pleased. It was a vehicle altogether unlike any they had ever seen. It was a two-wheel carriage, something like an old-fashioned baker's cart, with seats on each side for two persons, and one in front for the driver. These seats are back to back, and the persons occupying them sit with their side to the driver, looking outward. Constructed in a light, easy style, it becomes at once a very useful, convenient, and graceful carriage to ride in. One can mount and dismount with perfect ease, and our travel- lers were charmed with it. In all the places in Ireland visited by them, they found it used by all classes, the high and low, rich and poor. 122 THE PERCY FAMILY. Gay ladies and noblemen were seen dashing about from place to place, dresses fluttering in the breeze, and the light, fantastic vehicles rolling over the ground with the greatest ve- locity. Walter wondered why such carriages were not used in the suburbs of Boston ; he thought they would be admirable on the macadamized roads in the vicinity of the metropolis for short pleas- ure tours. The hotel from which they started was on Sackville Street. This street is one of the most beautiful thoroughfares in the world, and the Dublin people think no other city can present its equal. Long, straight, and wide, it has many beautiful edifices, and is always thronged by the business men of the place. Several of the finest hotels, the General Post Office, and a number of noted public buildings rear their huge fronts on this street. About midway between Rutland Square and the River Liffey, in this street, stands the Nel- son Pillar, a fine Doric column one hundred and thirty feet high, surmounted by a life-look- ing statue of that naval hero. There stands Nelson, in his dead eloquence, looking down upon the thousands of people who surge along below, reminding the beholder of one of the THE IRISH CAPITAL. 123 bravest men, and one of the most revered of all the naval heroes of Great Britain. The top of this pillar is reached by a winding staircase, which is ascended in the dark, the poor traveller striking his head against the stony sides of the pillar at almost every step. The view of the city from this monument is \