li ,0 c 3 N A -^ ') N **> "'""' ' '■' -z. - ' .A ^ --ts\A '^^^' a\^ v.b ^ '«' ^"^ -;<^ , ^ ^0^ .^^ -^^^ x^?. X^^. j;^'' -^^^^^^^ii^l.^/ '■^ , '>\ r ■ A\^ <3. • 4 ■' -'^^ vi .-^^ ^■^ '^ ^^ ^ EVERY BOY HIS OWN MMUFACTUREE, COlITAINrNG INSTEUCTIONS IN CARPENTRY, TURNING, BOAT BUILDING, AND GLASS BLOWING, WITH FXUX BIEECTIONS HOW TO MAKE STEAM ENGINES, LOCOMOTIVE ENGINES, ELECTRIC TELE- GRAPHS, STEAM BOATS, DIORAMAS, CLOCKS, BRACKETS, TELESCOPES, ETC., ETC. PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED New Yoek : \\ '' ^ m.lltALQ ^, ' HAPPY HOURS COMPaX^fwashjv^g.-^^^'- No. 1 CnAMBEiiS Street. T?1 Entered according to Act of Congress, in tbe year 1873, by Happy Hours Company, in the Office of tlie Librarian of Congress, at Wasliington, D. C. PEEFACE In a work of this character but small preface is needed, the title of the book being its own preface. Each department has been written by gentlemen who have been trained to the various subjects, and have had many years' practical experience, and the Editor confidently trusts that a work of this nature will supply a hitherto existing want, and become the constant companion of eveiy boy who desires to be- come his OWiT MAiOJFACTIJRER. EVERY BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTURER. CARPENTERING. Fig, 2. Carpentering is a useful and healthy em- ployment,and every boy will do well to give some of his time to learn the use of the tools required in this branch of the me- chanical art. Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a carpenter's working bench. A is a *'jaw" forholdiog wood when planing the edges; B is a square block of wood, or rest, called a stop or bench-dog, which can be shifted up or down to any required distance above the surface of the table, to keep the wood firm when being planed. A very good size for a bench is 5 ft. long by 2 ft. 6 in. broad, and 2 ft. 6 in. above the ground, that is, 2 ft. G in. cubes. Do not buy a box of tools, but go to some respectable maker and buy them separately. In describing each tool and the way to use it, it will be best to begin with the hand-saw (Fig. 2), which is used for cutting wood from the plank; it should be about 20 in. long, with teeth about eight to the inch. This saw will cut crossways, as well as lengthways, of the wood. When buying it, say it is required for cutting soft wood. Always mark out the wood that is to be cut, with pencil and rule. When cutting, look on both sides of the saw at once ; this will ensure a straight cut. 6 EYERY BOY HIS 0T72T MANUFACTURER. The saw is held at an angle of about 45='. If it should bend or not work easily, put a little common tallow on the blade. On no account try to set or sharpen the saw, or the result will be more harm than good. This can be done properly for you at a carpenter shop. The tenon-saw (Fig. 3) is made to cut across the grain of the wood, so as to leave the ends neat: it is also used for cutting ^'dovetails." It has ten to fifteen EiG, 3. teeth to the inch. It has a stiff brass rib to hold the blade straight when cutting. A good length is 12 inches. Fig. 4 represents the smoothing -plane. This tool is used for smooth- ing the wood to a nice flat and even surface -, it % also used for finishing up the ends of the wood. The size required is about 8 in. long by 2i in. broad. When buying it, specify that it shall have double irons. In all probability it will have a pretty good edge when purchased, and will only require a rub on the hone to make it fit for use. To a boy who has a limited amount of pocket-money it is advisable not to buy a hone, but to obtain a good piece of writing slate, which makes a first-rate hone when used with a little oil. iff of«TVinc?i. Fig. 5. To sharpen the iron, unscrew the pinching-screw, A, Fig. 5, and you can then take off the break- fig. iron, B. Fig. 6 shows the position and the angle, and also the way to hold the iron when it is on the hone. Fig. 5 shows the kons when ready to be put into the stock. To disengage the irons from the stock, strike a couple of moderate blows on the stock at A, Fig. 4, with the mallet (Fig. 7); if this do not loosen them, tap the wedge on either side alternate- ly, and, when sufficiently slack, it can be withdrawn by the fingers. In putting the wedge into its i ^p^ place, one or two slight taps with II ^^^^^ the mallet will fix it ; if much force be used, most likely the stock will Pig. 7. Split, or be otherwise distorted. The cutting edge of the iron should project through the base of the stock only suf&cient to be noticeable when looking along the plane. Do not buy a second-hand plane, or it will be found on inspection that all the cutting edge has been ground away, and the plane useless. ETEEY EOT HIS OTTx :m:axt:tactueek. A 1 if'!?' 1 The joiner's hammer (Fig. 8) is a tool which every boy knows when he sees it ; it will, therefore, be mineeessary to give a lengthy description of it. ^^ ^ The face should be about three-quarters of an inch diameter. In holding the hammer, the hand should be very near the end of the han- dle. When driving in a nail, two or three light strokes will effectively start it, and it can then be driven home with greater force. A two-feet rule (Fig. 9) is most handy for general use, marked off, to inches and eighths. It is made of box- wood. The set-square is represented in Fig. 10. This tool is for marking off a line, at right angles to the edge of a plank, or any other place where a line is required at right angles. A 12 in. blade is the best size. The blade, A, is made of steel ; the frame, B, of ebony wood. There are three brass pins to hold the blade in its place. fig. lo. The two chisels, Figs. 11 and 12, are requii'ed for ordinary carpenter- ing : one, one-eighth of an inch broad for cutting dovetails, the other about three-quarters of an inch. An edge is given to these in the same way as the plane. The screw- driver is for putting screws Figs. 11 and 13. into wood. The breadth of the tool where it enters the screw's head should be three -eighths of an inch broad. This tool has not a sharp edge. The marking-gauge, Fig. 13, is for mark- ing parallel lines from the edge of a plank or other piece of wood. A, is a pencil or scriber, B, is a set-screw to adjust the gauge. The gimlet, Fig. 14, is a tool for boring holes, but as it is very apt to split the wood when used near the edge, great care is nec- essary. It is generally best to use the brace U and bit anywhere near the edge of the wood. fics. 13 and 14. The gimlet is more liable to split hard wood than soft. The brace and bits, Fig. 15, is another boring tool; it is used for boring holes from one-eighth of an inch to three- quarters of an inch in diameter. Tliis tool cuts a very neat and clean hole. The bit, A, Fig. 15, fits 8 EVERY BOY HIS 0~^X MAI^"UEACTUEER. into a square socket in the brace. The left hand is placed top of the brace, and the right hand on the crank, B, by which a circular motion is given to the bit. The top figure is a rose-bit and is used for sink- ing the heads of nails or screws. i^g. is. on the A Fig. 21. Fig. 22. "Fig. 18. Fig. 19. Fig. 20. The gouge is a very similar tool to the chisel ; instead of cutting a flat surface, it cuts a semicircular groove. It is not a very easy tool to han- dle, but it is a very useful one. There are many other tools than those described and illustrated, which an experienced carpenter would require. These few pages teach but the first lesson to the young carpenter in his apprenticeship. There is the jack-plane, for bringing the rough wood to a level surface ; the lock-saw, for cutting circular work and various other planes and saws ; the spoke-shave, dec. Let all the materials you use in carpentry be good. Durable work cannot be made with green timber. The best work will be worthless if you do not get well-seasoned wood. For different purposes, difi'erent woods are chosen. Oak will stand all weathers without being much af- fected. Elm will endure in wet situations better than other woods. Ash is a very tough and also a very flexible wood ; it is, perhaps, the best if wanted to stand a sudden strain. Pine is more largely used in carpen- try than any other wood, on account of its cheapness. For cabinet- work black walnut is much used; for ornamental turning, boxwood, coromandel, and other hard woods are used. HOW TO MAKE A TOOL-BOX. A handy and convenient size for a tool-box is 2 ft. long, 21 in. broad, and lOi m. deep. The material required for this will be enumerated below. 12 ft. of i-in. pine-wood 11 m. broad; 1 pair of hinges (or iron butts, as they are called by the trade); 12 screws for ditto, 1 in. long ; ^ EVEKT EOT HIS OWN MAlf-DTACTUKEB. 9 1 paper brads. Fig. 17.) ' 5 cts. worth of glue. i ^"" ' ' 1 lock and key (iron) ^''' ^'^' When buying the wood, ask for "insides." The first thing to be done is to cut the wood into proper lengths and dimensions. The pieces re- quired will be : FoTthe sides of the box, 2 pieces 24i in. long, " two ends '' 2 '' 21i '' " lid " 2 '' 24i " " bottom " 2 " 24 ^' These dimensions should be marked off on the plank before cutting, with a rule and pencil. The two sides and the two ends should now be planed on both sides, and the top and bottom edges planed true and square. The breadth of the wood will now be 10^^ in. The best joint for a box is the ''dovetail joint." Fig. 18. shows the side with the "dovetail" cut. Fig. 19 the end with the ''points," cut. Fig. 20 the dovetail joint finished. To make the dovetail joint, proceed as follows : On one of the sides of the box mark off lines with the square, 2 feet apart, also mark off lines 23 in. apart; call these lines a and b (Fig. 21). Mark on the line a points every inch and half-inch alternately ; on the line b mark off a point seven-eighths of an inch from &, and then points for every six- eighths of an inch. Now draw lines from the points on line a to the points on line b (Fig. 22.) Cut with a tenon-saw from c to ^ and from e to / treating each dovetail in the same way. With a chisel cut the piece out so as to form a dovetail, as in Fig. 18. The pins are now to be drawn to corres- pond with the dovetails, which can be done by placing the dovetails just made over the end of the short sides, or ends, and marking them with a pencil. When this is done, make lines 20 in. apart ; cut the pins down to this line with the tenon-saw. In cutting the pins, cut outside the pencil lines. The space between can now be cut out with a chisel. When all the pieces have been done in this manner they should be coated with thin glue, and then hammered well together. When dry, the projecting ends of the pins and dovetails may be trimmed off with a chisel. This is called the "carcase" of the box. |M||| The bottom of the box is to be put in next. Plane up the two pieces 24 in. long by 11 in. broad, and fit them neatly in the "carcase." They should be nailed from outside the box, ^?^ Fig. 23. j?iG. 23. The lid pieces are planed up next, so as to fit outside the "carcase." Fig. 24 is the box when finished; a is a piece of wood 2 in. deep, nailed on the lid to keep it square on the box ; 10 EVERY BOY HIS OTOT MANUFACTURER. B B is a beading of wood nailed on the box to make a strong base, and also to protect the edges from chipping. A DOa-KENNEL, AND HOW TO MAKE IT. A dog -kennel, as everybody fig. 24. knows, may be almost any size and shape, as of course the kennel that suits Master Pup, the terrier, will not suit Sir Growler, the Newfound- land. However, suppose Master Pup requires a new house : it must not be made too small or too large, for if made the former, poor doggy will get the cramps in his legs, or, if it be made the latter, he will feel cold and uncomfortable, and will want a whole truss of straw to keep him warm. Fig. 25 is about a nice roomy kennel for a terrier. If the kennel be required for a larger or smaller dog, the size can be altered to suit it, by increasing or reduc- ing all the dimensions in pro- portion to the required size. It has a hole 1 in. in diameter over the doorway in front, and S also one of the same size at the back: this will establish a YiG. 25. -draught, to carry off any bad air, which always accumulates at the highest point. If the kennel be made this size, i in. pine wood will be sufficient, but, if made larger, 1 in. wood may be used. Materials required : 38 ft. i in. pine wood, 11 in. broad. 4 doz. 2 in. brads, (Fig. 27) 3 doz. 1 in. brads, |^.' '^ ^^—^ (Fig. 26) 2 doz. f in. screws. Eig. 26. The floor of the kennel is the first thing to be made, because the ^ _2 m ...s, whole after work is erected from it. Cut \j '^ two pieces from the plank with the tenon- EiG. 27. saw, 2 ft. Hi in. long; plane this on one side and the edges. Also cut two pieces 20 in. long by Si in. broad ; plane these up nicely on all sides. The two pieces for the bottom are now to be placed as m Fig. 28. The pieces 20 in. by 51 in., are screwed on with f in. screws ; this holds the two bottom pieces firmly to- gether. Cut a piece off the plank 3 ft. 9 in. long, and plane it up to 10^ 2n.!i.^i ElG. EVERT BOY HIS OWX ArAXrFArTrTRETl. 11 2ft. SiTt.. i/l; 6iji 2jt>. Sin. in. broad; then cut it diagonally across, as Fig. 29. This forms the back of the kennel^ and should be nailed on the bottom with 2 in. brads. (Fig. 30.) Make a hole in the wood with a brad-awl before putting in a nail. eig. 29. The front is made in the same way, but requires a hole cut for the doorway before it is nailed on. The curve at the top is cut with the compass -saw. The edges of the doorway should be rounded off; this \^ill protect Master Pup from cut-- ting his ribs when he runs out in a hurry. For the sides, cut six pieces 18 in. long, plane these to 10^ in. broad. Also cut pieces 18 in. long and 5 in. broad, and plane them down to 4^ in. broad. The edges of these boards must all be EiG. 30. square and straight, so as to fit neatly together. Xail on these boards as in Fig. 31. The holes to receive the nails ^ should be made with a brad-awl. The cross-bar, Fig. 31, A, running from the front to back, is 1 in. -square, and is screwed on from the outside of the front and back. The top is now to be made. Cut eight pieces 18 in. long and plauc them to lOi in. broad. The sur- face that goes outside should be fig. 31.' planed smooth. Top is put on as in Fig. 32 ; B is a piece of wood half an inch square nailed on after the top is on. A skilled carpenter would '^ mitro" the edges to- KV«ini'f| itniiUM^Tl^ gether, and thus dispense with this extra piece. wv.^^'i --L^^'^ »ni.^w,Mn^ With a couple of coats of paint the kennel will be finished. The kennel should not b? palnie^l inside. Three pounds of paint will be required. If Master Pup is to be chained up, it is advisable not Yic. 32. to chain him to the kennel, or perhaps some fine day he may imagine himself a horse, and cut capers with his wheelless carriage at his tail. F\^. 33 is a peg to be driven into the ground to fasten the chain to; B is a staple to be driven into the peg. Fig. 33. 12 EYERY BOY HIS OWN MAT^UEACTUREB. PLAIN TUENING IN WOOD AND IVORY. To those of our young readers who have a mechanical turn there are few, if any, of the various indoor amusements which can be compared with Turning, and there are none, we are convinced, from which such truly satisfactory resalts will follow. Very little real instiuction, however, can be imparted by any written directions, however clearly and concisely they may be given, unless they are accompanied by practical demonstration and the actual manipulation of the lathe by a practised performer. The endless variety of patterns and figures which are capable of being produced in the lathe does away with all monotony, and when once the rudiments of the art are acquired the pupil will find himself amply repaid for all the trouble he may have bestowed upon it. He must, however, possess taste in the arrangement of his patterns, in their proportions and in their designs: in the absence of these, all his labor will be fruitless, however great may be the pro- ficiency to which he may attain in the actual working of his lathe. The first step to be taken is to secure a good lathe ; that is, as soon as the pupil finds, by working at the lathe of some professional turner, that he really likes it and can handle the ordinary tools in a tolerably work- manlike manner. We will suppose that the beginner has obtained the advantage of watching a professional turner at work, and has learned practically the use of the different sized ''gouges," and can turn some rude patterns, such as the leg of a chair, with a tolerable amount of finish and without chipping the wood or notching the tools. Let him then be taught and practice the use of the diiferent-sized chisels and the point-tools, and this learned properly and their manipulation well under- stood, the groundwork of plain turning may be said to be overcome. The next step we would commend being taken is that of making a small urn or egg-cup. To do this, proceed as follows : Having fixed the piece of wood in the chuck (the receptacle, whether of brass or wood, which screws on to the mandril of the lathe), com- mence turning it with a moderate-sized gouge into the rough shape you require; then, with a small " side-tool," hollow out the inside of the requisite size, and finish off with sand-paper. When the inside is com- pleted, turn down the outside to the desired shape, and finish off with sand-paper. After a httle practice this will be found to be tolerably easy of accomplishment, and another step in advance may now be EYEKY BOY HIS OWX MA^UFACTUEEK. 13 taken, yIz., that of making an ordinary box. HaYing selected a piece of wood of the size you require, and fixed it, as before, in the chuck, ''rough" it out to the shape you wish, and very carefully turn down the projection to receive the lid of the proper size, and, having finished off this part of the box, hollow it out by means of the side-tool, as before ; then chuck the piece of wood intended for the lid, and proceed in pre- cisely the same way, taking care to fit the two very nicely ; and, having shut one within the other, finish them off together; then, in order to complete the bottom and top, chuck them the reverse way, removing them, of coiu*se, from the original chuck and fitting them to a fresh one. Then, we would point out the absolute necessity of learning to ''chuck" well, i. e., to fix the wood or other material you are about to turn firmly and properly in the chuck. This is a most material, and, in- deed, indispensable ingredient in the art of turning, and more disap- pointment and annoyance proceeds from a neglect of this precaution than from any other cause. The making of a set of chessmen afibrds most excellent practice to the beginner in more ways than one ; it teaches the use of the gouges of various sizes, and of the point-tool and chisels, and, what is of equal importance, turning to measurement, for there must be sixteen pawns all exactly alike and of the same size, four castles, four bishops, two kings, and two queens, and the bases of the knights (the heads, of course, cannot be made in the lathe). Turning in soft wood is but little practised by the amateur turner, as there is but small scope for the exercise of his ingenuity and taste, be- sides which, the method of turning it is entirely different, the level of the rest upon which the tool is held being fixed far above the centre of the wood which is being turned ; while in hard wood and ivory turn- ing it is fixed as much below it, soft wood requiring to revolve directly against the edge of the tool, hard wood at an angle. Besides which, soft wood is not capable of being ornamented by means of the slide- rest and overhead motion, while hard wood and ivory are the best materials for receiving the most delicate patterns. The best, and, indeed, the only woods that will repay the trouble of turning, are box-wood, crocus, and the African black-wood. Ebony should under all circumstances be avoided, for, although it is susceptible of taking the most beautiful polish, it is very treacherous, for after, per- haps, hours of trouble and work have been bestowed upon it, it will bo found they have been entirely thrown away, a crack appearing and branching in various directions. No material with which we are ac- quainted can be compared with ivory, the only drawback being its cost; and, on this account, in hollowing it, in making a box, the inside, instead of being cut out in shavings, should always be taken o\it in rings, by means of a bent-tool and fine parting-tool ; and thus much of the 14 EVERY BOY HIS OWN :M:AifUrACTURER. material is saved, which is always useful for making rims for pedestals, candlesticks, &c. It will scarcely he helieved hy those unacquainted with the working of the lathe that there is no regular shape that is not capable of being produced by means of it, and it is perfectly marvelous what may be performed by common or hand turning. We remember seeing what we consider to have been the most wonderful piece of work ever pro- duced. It was in the Exhibition in Hyde Park in 1851. It was the size and shape of an ordmary hen's egg, and the whole of the inside had been turned out through an opening at one end of only one-tenth of an inch in diameter ! It was performed by a journeyman turner in an or- dinary lathe. It should be added that the shell thus produced weighed less by some grains than an ordinary egg-shell of the same size. Tedious as the operation is, nothing in the art of turning repays the trouble and time bestowed upon it more than constantly sharpening the tools and keeping a sharp edge continually upon them, for without this precaution an even surface on the work can never be produced. Nothing gives so dehghtfal a finish to the smooth surface of the wood as French pohsh, which may be applied in the lathe. Simple as it may appear, it is by no means an easy matter, and requires a great deal of practice. A piece of hard wood must be turned, and made as smooth as possible with sand-paper, then take a piece of flannel about four or five inches square, and double it, then apply it to the neck of the bottle of French polish, which must be inverted two or three times until a piece of the surface of the flannel, about the size of a five-cent piece, is satu- rated with the polish, then apply a few drops of salad oil and rub it over it with the finger ; the lathe should then be set in motion rather quickly, and as the work revolves the polish should be applied to it even- ly and with a very slight pressure, which should be gradually increased as the polish hardens. A second and even a third coat may be given ; but great care should be taken not to press too hard against the work, or the friction will burn it and cause dark dull streaks to appear on the face of it. This kind of polish should never be applied to ivory, the best way of polishing which is as follows : Having finished the work with very sharp tools and the finest '^ glass- cloth" or sand-paper, mix about a couple of table-spoonfuls of common whitening, reduced to a fine powder, with water, until it is of the con- sistency of cream, and thoroughly saturating a piece of flannel with it, apply it as described above to the work as it revolves, taking care to keep it perfectly wet. When the requisite polish is obtained, a soft brush with dry powdered whitening should be used, and then a piece of flannel soaked in a little salad oil, and, lastly, a silk handkerchief. In making boxes of hard wood, it is better to rough them out and keep them in a dry place for some weeks before they are used, as some- EYEET BOY HIS OWX MANUPACTHREE. 15 times the wood will crack if it happens to be at all damp, which is often the case if it be used directly it is purchased. If hard wood be pur- chased in any quantity, it is a good plan to glue pieces of brown paper over each end of the log ; this will prevent its cracking. Oihng it is also a good plan. Rhinoceros horn makes a most beautiful material when turned and polished ; but the operation is most tedious, for, with every care, it dulls the edges of the tools directly they are apphed to it, and the hone must be kept in constant use. After being turned and made perfectly smooth with the finest glass-cloth, it must be polished with a mixture of rotten- stone and oil while revolving in the lathe, as before described. A few hours' occasional instruction at the hands of a professional turner will do more for a beginner than reading volumes of printed directions; at the same time, we feel assured that the few hints we have given will be of essential service. ORNAMENTAL TURNING. We now come to the most difficult part of our subject, viz., Ornament- al Turning — so called to distinguish it from Common or Hand Turning, as described in our previous article; for by it the most delicate and intricate patterns may be cut on hard wood and ivory with the most delightful accuracy and with mathematical truth, which could not by any possibility be produced without its aid ; and as the apparatus neces- sary for its accomplishment is only an addition to the ordinary lathe, its different parts may be purchased by degrees, as the learner gradually attains proficiency. We will first, then, describe the lathe itself, as shown in the annexed wood-cut. (Fig. 1.) A A is a framework of wood, generally mahogany, very strongly and substantially made, on which the other parts of the lathe are put on and taken off, as required. In some lathes the '' bed" (the horizontal cross- piece at the top and front) is entirely of iron ; but this we object to, for we have found by experience that there is much more vibration than there is if it be made only partly of that material ; and for this reason we recommend that the lower part of it be made of the best mahogany, having two bars of planed cast iron exactly parallel to each other on its top, and half an inch thick, which can be easily added to any lathe having its ''bed" formed entirely of wood, which is the case with all low-priced ones. B is the driving-wheel, which is set in motion by the treadle, C. This should be of cast iron, and the heavier the better. The smaller wheel attached to it (as shown in the drawing) is used in metal turning only, as very much less speed is required than in turning wood or ivory. 16 EVERY BOY HIS OWN" MANUFACTURER. D is the " pulley," as it is called, over which the catgut band from the driving-wheel passes and sets it in motion. E is the mandril, having a screw at its end which fits all the chucks, and on which they are screwed as required. It should fit the ''head" of the lathe with the most scrupulous accuracy, and should be hollow from end to end {i. e., if the lathe has a screw-cutting apparatus belong- ing to it), as it enables the performer to chuck long pieces of thin wood, Fig. L ETEEY BOY HIS O^K MAXUFACTTJEEE. 17 ivory, &;c., and to turn their ends by passing tliem through it as well as through the chuck. F is what is called the ''back poppit/' and is a movable contrivance attached to the lathe, having a piece of pointed steel, which is capable of being advanced or withdrawn by means of the screw at its rear. It is used when turning any long piece of wood, or other material, in order to keep it steady. It slides between the two iron bearers on the bed of the lathe as before described, and can be fixed at any spot upon them by its binding-screw, as shown in the drawing; the pointed piece of steel which is pressed against the material should be exactly opposite the centre of the end of the mandril. G is a most ingenious and useful addition to the lathe, as it enables the turner to make screws, whether of the coarser or finer threads, with the most unerring accuracy. It is a plate of brass, three-eighths of an inch in thickness, attached to the end of the head of the lathe, immedi- ately below tlie end of the mandril, which projects about two and a half inches; and moving on an eccentric, so that it is callable of the very finest adjustment, in order to fit a coarse or fine thread. It is in the shape shown in the engraving. (Fig 2.) Six segments of a circle are cut out from its edge. In Ko. 1 is cut a coarse thread; in No. 2, a finer one, and so on to No. 6, corresponding with and fitting the six different sized screw-tools. The end of the mandril has a steel cap fitted to it, wliicli is kept in its place by a screw at one end, while the other riG.2, Screw-cutting AprARATns. meets the head of the lathe, and keeps the mandril from advancing when the lathe is at work. There are also six blocks of steel, an inch and a half in diameter and an inch thick, and round these are cut threads Nos. 1 and 6, as before described; these are called ''screw guides," and are used in this way : when it is desired to cut a screw (whether coarse or fine), the number is selected, the screw at the end of the mandril must betaken out, the cap removed, and one of the guides put in its place (the guides have holes through them, fitting the end of the mandril), and fixed by the screw. The brass plate must then be moved up and down by means of the eccentric attached to it, until the corresponding screw fits into the thread of the guide, and allows it to run freely and evenly upon it. The screw-tool must then be selected which fits the guide. And now, then, for the method of cutting the required screw. Advance the screw-guide on the screw in the edge of the brass plate below it about half its length, having previously, of course, turned the piece of wood or ivory on which the screw is to be cut, and attached it in its chuck to the IS EYEEY EOT HIS OW:S" MA:N-UrACTUEEIl. mandril. Then place the screw-tool on the rest M, allowing its end to come in contact with the work, when it must be held perfectly steady. The large driving-wheel must then be moved with the treadle about half-way round, and reverse. It will be readily seen that the mandril as it revolves moves forward and backward by the motion thus given to it, and of course in exact proportion to the ''pitch" of the thread em- ployed; and after a few turns the screw is complete. The inside screw is cut in precisely a similar way, substituting the inside screw-tool. For making ''working" screws, i.e., those which in boxes, &;c., are intended to be opened and shut, this apparatus is invaluable, as the screws thus made fit most accurately. TVhere a joint is made, not intended to be dis- turbed, the screws may be cut well enough by hand; but when time is no object, we would advise all screws to be made by this apparatus. Care should be taken that the screw-tool be placed on the rest so that its side comes exactly against the "shoulder" of the work, where the bottom of the screw finishes. A groove should always be cut round the work at this spot, rather deeper than the intended thread, which glides nicely into it without leaving a ragged edge. We will next attempt to describe the "universal chuck*' (Fig. 3), so called from its being capable of hold- ing in the lathe any sized piece of wood or ivory from half an inch up to four or five inches. This chuck is not absolutely/ necessary, although a very useful tool. It is a plate of brass, A, about half an inch thick, having a screw in its centre at the back to fit the nose of the mandril (which all chucks must do.), and having three steel screws, B, B, B, passing through slots and converg- PiG. 3. ing to the centre, as shown in the engraving. The holes which appear in the plate are of no other use'than that of lessening the weight of the chuck. It is as well to have ten or twelve concentric circles cut on the face of the plate, as it enables the turner to adjust his work in it with greater facility as regards the centre of the chuck. In order to fix the work in this chuck, the screws should be turned, with a key made to fit them, until the jaws, or "dogs," as they are called, are drawn sufficiently far from the centre to admit of its being inserted; they must then be- screwed tight against it, and it is thuf held quite firmly. Some of these chucks are made so that by turning one screw all three of these jaws move equally toward the centre; but this is practically a disadvantage, and for this reason : that it requires the work EYEEY BOY HIS OTTX MArNTTACTrRER. 19 to be exactly circular, in order to grip it firmly, which is not the case ii the screws act independently of each other. In the latter case the turner is able to chuck work of almost any shape, and this is a great consider- ation in preparing the material, particularly ivory, for the lathe, in which it is, of course, desirable to avoid cutting, as much as possible, to waste. Another very useful tool is the ''boring collar" (Fig. 4), which is attached to the lathe in the same way as the "back poppit," F. It is composed of a circular plate of cast iron, A, having eight circular holes bored through it, as shown in the drawing, varying in size from half an inch up to two inches, or even more, and slightly tapered. It is for the purpose of supporting any long piece of work while boring it, in order to get rid of the vibration. It is used in this way: the ''back poppit" must be taken from the bed of the lathe, and the "boring collar'' put in its place, with its standard next to the mandril; the distance from which must, of course, be regulated by the length of the work required to be bored. One end of the work being fixed in the chuck, the "boring collar" must be pushed forward, and the plate turned round, until the hole in the plate, fitting the work, is at the top, when it will be found to be ex- actly opposite the end of the mandril, and concentric with it; the plate must then be made fast by means of the nut in the centre, by the bindTug-screw be- neath, and the boring collar itself fixed in its place. The "lathe must then be worked in the ordinary way, and the end of the work can then be easily bored or hollowed as required without fear of its giving way. We have, w<3 trust, described the lathe itself sufficiently, sofar°as com- mon or hand turning is concerned ; and we will now proceed to describe tlie various additions to it which are necessary for the accomplishment of Ornamental Turning. Fig. 4. THE OVERHEAD MOTION. This is a bar of wrought iron, H (Fig. 1.), fitting movablyinto two stout nngs of the same material, attached to the left-hand bearer of the lathe, as shown in the drawing, and having a screw, L, beneath it, and work- ing in a third ring to enable it to be raised or depressed about three niches at pleasure by means of a screw, for the puri)ose of tightening or loosening the band which passes over the pulley, hereafter described. 20 EYERT BOY HIS OTYN" MAXTJFACTUEER. The upper end of this bar is beut, as shown in the engraving, and carries a frame and spindle, I, on which are two pulleys about three inches in diameter. In common or hand turning the work revolves in the lathe, and the tools are held against it; but in ornameutal turning it is just the reverse, for while the tools revolve, the work remains stationary. The band con- necting the driving-wheel with the pulley is removed, and a long band connecting the driving-wheel with the small pulleys on the overhead motion is substituted, and a second band, connecting the other pulley on the spindle with the wheels on different parts of the apparatus connect- ed with the slide-rest (presently described), causes the different tools to revolve. The above description will, we trust, be sufficiently clear to enable our young readers at once to comprehend this part of the apparatus; and we will, therefore, at once proceed to describe the slide -rest, an indispen- sable adjunct to the lathe, and without which no attempt can be made in this branch of our subject. THE SLIDE-EEST, (Fig 5,) so called from the cradle connected with it, which carries several slides, in which the various tools are fixed. When in use it is attached to the lathe by removing the rest,M, described in Fig. 1, and placing the slide- rest in its place. We will now attempt to describe it as correctly as we can. Fig. 5. A, is a piece of cast iron, most accurately planed and finished, of the shape shown in the engraving, having a slot cut through it nearly its entire length, through which a flat threaded screw works and carries the shde B, which, by means of this screw, can be moved from one end of A to the other, so that the tool can be brought to bear on any part of the ETERY BOY HIS O^X MAXUFACTUREE. 21 work ; and as the small wli'd 7. end of the lever over the standard on the slide, and the slot over that on the cradle, the straight one, A, being used for the tool-slide (Fig. 8), and* the drill-slide (Fig. 9) and the bent one, B, for the slides carrying the eccentric cutting-frame, universal cutting-frame, and vertical cutting- frame. THE TOOL-SLIDE. This shde is used almost exclusively with what are called the slide- rest tools, which need no further description than that they are straight tools about two and a quarter inches long, with round, square, pointed or grooved ends, according to the pattern required to be produced. They fit into the boss C on the slide A, and are kept in their place by the binding- screw D. D is the standard before described, E being a small stud or handle for withdrawing the slide. F and G are two screws, F regulating the depth of the cut in the work, and G by being turned slowly, allowing the tool to advance gradually to it, thus diminishing the risk of the very delicate points of the tools being broken, and avoiding the chance of a ragged gash or scratch being made on the work, which would bo the case if the tools were pushed suddenly against it. These screws, it will be 22 EYEEY EOT HIS OWi?' MAIfFrACTUEER. observed, are attached to all the slides used in the slide-rest. The slide (Fig. 8), although it enables the turner to produce very beautiful patterns in connection with the eccentric-chuck hereafter described, is compara- tiyely very little used for ornamental purposes^ excepting as it is indis- pensably necessary in insuring a perfectly true and even surface on the wood or ivory, preparatory to the introduction upon it of the various and innumerable patterns which are capable of being produced by the other tools. The method of using this slide will be described and treated of in the concluding remarks and instructions of this article. THE DEILLING-FEAME, OR DRELL-SLIDE (Fig. 9). This instrument is one of the most useful of all these slides, as by its use such a great variety of patterns may be produced. It fits, like all the other slides, in the cradle, B, on the slide-rest. A is the slide itself; B, the spindle, having a steel wheel at its- lower end (by which motion is given to it by passing the band from the overhead motion over it)^ and areeep- Fes. 9. tacle, E, into which the various tools are inserted. C is the standard before described; G, the regulating-screws, and F a small piece of steel attached to the slide, which (the head of the screw being graduated) enables the turner to alter the depth of the cut by equal degrees. EVERT BOY HIS OTTX MAXUFACTFRER. 23 Fig. 10. THE ECCENTEIC CUTTrNG-FEAME (Fig. 10). This instruED name implies, is used in cutting eccentric patterns on the prepared surface of wood or ivory, and the diversity of work which may be accomplished by it is almost incalculable. A is a steel shaft, which also fits into the slide on the cradle, B, of the slide- rest, having a spindle working through its entire length, which, like the drilling-frame, has a steel wheel, E, at its lower end, moved in the same way. At the upper end is a steel frame, B, having a four-threaded steel screw working through its entire length, with a graduated head, C. J) is a binding- screw connected with a socket, which holds the various tools, of six of which we here give drawings (Fig. 11), which may be made, of course, of any shape that may be desired. This instrument enables the turner to describe circles of any size within its compass, by simply turning the screw, G, at the end of the frame, which moves the socket nearer to or farther from the centre. THE YEETICAL CUTTINQ-FEAME (Fig. 12). This tool, like the two preceding ones, is attached to the slide in the cradle, B, on the slide-rest, by its shaft, A. B is the end of a steel spindle, passing through its upper end, and at exactly right angles with the shaft, having a slot and binding-screw for holding one of the small tools (see Fig. 11) at one end, and a similar small steel wheel to Fig- 12. that iu Fig. 10 at the other, and worked in exactly the same way. This tool, as its name signifies, only cuts vertically. We now come to a far more complicated, but most useful tool, called Fig. 11. 24 ETEET BOY HIS OWN" MAITUFACTURER. THE UNIVERSAL CUTTING-FRAME (Fig. 13), Tvhicb, like all the preceding ones, fits into the slide of the slide-rest, and is worked by means of the overhead motion. As its name implies, its action is universal, i. e., it enables the tm^ner to make cuts in his work at any angle and direction. A is its shaft, having a spindle passing through its entire length, attached to the apparatus to be presently described, at its upper end, and a finely-graduated index, C, with a binding-screw, F, at the other. This index has its zero or starting-point on its upper side, and the degrees marked upon it extend to its right and left. The instrument, as shown in the engraving, is set at this point, and the cut made by it in this po- sition would be exactly horizontal. B is the small wheel similar to that in Fig. 12. H is the end of the smtill spindle, having a slot cut through it, and a binding-screw for the purpose of holding any of the small tools in Fig. 11. E is the head of the instrument, and below it is the binding- screw for the purpose of holding the small frame, D, which carries the two small additional or guide-wheels. It is obvious that if the band from the overhead motion came direct from it to the small wheel, B, in the posi- tion in the drawing, it could not act, as that wheel is in a horizontal one: but, with the aid of the additional or guide- wheels on the frame, D, the Pig. 13. band can be brought to bear upon it at any angle. We will suppose, then, that a cut is required to be made at fifteen degrees from zero on the right : the binding-screw, F, must be loosened, and the instrument turned in its shaft until the mark on the small fixed stud is exactly opposite that num- ber on the index, when the binding-screw, F, must be tightened and the cut made. If a corresponding cut is required, all that is necessary is to EVERY BOY HIS OW^ AIAXrEACTUPcEE. 25 again loosen the binding- screw, F, turn the iustrnment in its shaft until the same number on the other side of the index is opposite the mark on the small stud, when the cut made will be exactly in a corresponding direction on the other side. The frame, D, is made to shift from one side to the other, so as to accommodate it to the shape or position of the work; and this is done by simply loosening the binding-screw at E, withdrawing the frame, and putting it through the same hole on the other side, and again tightening the screw; the small brass additional or guide-wheels on the frame must then be transferred to the other end of the bar on which they work, or they will not be opposite the small driving-wheel on the spindle, and would not, therefore, be '^in gear" with it. This brief description, with the drawing before him, will, we think, be amply sufacient to enable the pupil to comprehend the great use of this instrument. All further knowledge of it can only be acquired by practice on the instrument itself We next proceed to give a description of THE ECCENTRIC CHUCK, Fig. 14 being the front part of it, showing the cog-wheel, B, on which the common chuck carrying the work is screwed, with its ratchet and spring, C and D; and Fig. 15 showing the back of the chuck, with the screw, F, by which it is attached to the mandril of the lathe, E beiugthe head of the screw, to be hereafter described. This chuck is nothing more than a slide for moving the work in an eccentric position, or '^out of the centre," which enables the turner to operate upon the surface of it at any given point. We here give an engraving of the chuck with the sHde ~b EVERY BOY HIS OTTX MAXTJEACTUEER. thrown out (Fig. 16). A is the brass slide ; B is the cogged wheel on which the common chuck is fixed, which is graduated round its edge with Fig. 16. ninety-six divisions or cogs, into which the ratchet, C, having a powerful spring, D, works, and holds it in any position. It will be seen, therefore, that a lateral or a circular movement, or both, can be given to the work attache'd to it, and thus any part of it so placed that the tool in the slide- rest can be brought to bear upon it. A slot the whole length of the chuck is cut both in the slide, A, and in the brass plate below it, and a steel block is firmly brazed to the lower part of the slide. A, through which the screw, E, works. The slide A can thus be moved any distance from the centre by turning this screw. When the shde A is screwed '^ home," it is exactly concentric with the mandril of the lathe. It may be well to remark here, that any work intended to be ornamented by the aid of this chuck, in conjunction with the slide-rest, should always be turned upon it in this position in the plain lathe, and ''faced" by means of the slide-rest tools in the slide (Fig. 8) without moving it from, or disturbing it in, the chuck. Attention to hints like this, trifling as they may appear until put in practice, will often save the turner much time, much annoyance, and, what is perhaps of more importance, much temper,- for it fi^equently, indeed nearly always, happens that, after much labor devoted to the prep- aration of a piece of work to receive eccentric patterns, &c., and it is found necessary to remove it from one chuck to another, or to move it in its own chuck from the lathe (even although you immediately replace it), a great want of accuracy will be discovered, which will take probably hours to set to rights. Let it be a golden rule, therefore, never, after a piece of work is in a sufflciejit state offortcardness to receive tlie pattern intended to he placed upon it, alloiv it to be removed from tJie mandril or moved in its chuck. An instrument not in anythmg like general use amongst amateur turn- EVEEY BOY HIS O^^s" MA2sT7FACTUKER. 27 ers, although it enables them to place ornamental patterns on work of certain peculiar shapes and forms, which they could not perform without Its aid, IS deserving of a description here; and we can assure our youno- friends that when they have attained a certain amount of proficiency in this delightful amusement, it will be well worth their attention, and a most useful addition to their stock of ornamental apparatus. It is a very simple though very ingenious, piece of mechanism, and we will now attempt to describe it. It is called THE DOME CHUCK (Fig. 17), Tntl' Tri ^'""^ ''' '^^^^^"^ '^' '^^^^^ to ornament the sides of a dome or half-sphere on its convex surface, which will be noticed m the instructions hereafter given. A is a stout piece of brass or gun metal, about half an inch thick and four and a half inches long, with a nozzle at one end cut at right angles to fit the mandril of the lathe ; and at the other is a grad- uated nut, B, attached to a screw, which passes along a slot (longer than appears by the engraving) and through a block on the lower side of the slide, which can tbus be moved to or from the centre. To an arm extending from this slide is fixed the graduated wheel (ninety- six divisions), E, which is moved round by the endless screw, D, by means of a key, and G is a screw of the same size as that cut on the nose of the mandril, which receives the chuck containing the work, C being a binding- screw to fix the slide in its place. The slide referred to is composed of two plates of brass, and the slot and binding-screw, F, admit of the upper one being turned on the other by its centre, which, giving a difi-erent position to the work, enables an elliptical shape to be operated upon It must not bo imagined that anything can be done with the chuck without the assistance of tlie slide-rest and overhead motion. It merely holds the work in Its proper position, and regulates its adjustment and the requisite movements as the work proceeds. No one but those who have had experience can form any idea of the difference in appearance between work when finished with a blunt tool and with a sharp one; and the time and labor spent.in getting up a bril- liant polish on the tool is compensated for tenfold by the beauty and lus- tre of the work it produces. This (Fig. 18) will be found to be a most useful instrument when perfect truth in boring the inside of a cylinder, etc., is required. Fig. 17. 28 ETERT BOY HIS OWif MAXUFACTURER. A is a steel shaft, fitting into the shde which carries the ec- centric cutting-frame, etc., in the slide-rest, with a slot cut through its head exaciJy at right angles, to admit of the tool B being inserted, which is kept firmly in its place by two bind- ing-screws, as shown in the engraving. C is a movable cut- er, having a sharp beveled edge on its end and side. Bv the aid Fig. 18. of the slide-rest it moves in an exact straight line, and therefore cuts the inside of a tube, cylinder, etc., with perfect accuracy. . THE AMATEUE EIsTGII^EEE. HOW TO MAKE AN OSCH^LATINa ENGINE. In these advanced days of science and civilization we doubt whether any boy could possibly be ignorant of the fact that steam is simply water in a state of vapor, produced at a temperature of 212°, and upward, '■ Fah- renheit." In these pages it is not our intention to enter into a detailed account of the discovery, or rather the invention, of the steam-engine (on which subject volumes have been and still might easily be filled), which may be traced as far back as B. C. 130 years, when Hiero of Alexandria invented a species of engine, which Has been so extensively modified and altered that it is now almost a difficulty to ascertain which was the pre- cise form devised by the Inventor. Small glass and metal constructions, which are frequently called '' Hiero's engines," may be purchased at many opticians, and are used for diffusing perfumes. Neither do we intend writing a long dry essay on the properties and quality of steam. We shall only write sufficient to enable the reader to become somewhat ac- quainted with the properties and power of this great motive agent, and to understand what he is about, before attempting the construction of a model engine. We shall only attempt to supply, in generally intelligible language, an explanation of the facts and principles on which the struc- ture of the steam-engine depends. The first thing necessary for the production of steam is a '^ boiler," i. e., a vessel sufficiently strong to be capable of resisting a certain pressure, and furnished with a valve (called a safety-valve) for relieving the boiler of the superabundant pressure, which valve is regulated by a weight placed on a lever, or else by means of a strong spiral spring. EYEHY BOY HIS OWX iLOUrACTL'EER. 29 Boilers are now usually made longitudinal, with one or more tubes run- ning through them, containing the fire ; or else vertical or upright, with a number of tubes inside, conveying the heat from the furnace below to the chimney on the top of the boiler. A most striking peculiarity of steam is that it increases most enor- mously in bulk compared with the water from which it is generated. One cubic inch of water will produce one cubic foot of steam, and as a cubic loot contains 1,728 cubic inches, it follows that the space occupied by the steam would be over 1,700 times that required for the water. We fancy we can hear some of our readers say, '^ If that is the case, what an immense boiler would be required !" Very true ; but the diffi- culty is solved thus: Steam is remarkably elastic and compressible, so much so that hundreds of cubic feet can be packed into the space origi- nally occupied by one foot, provided the vessel containing it is sufficiently strong to resist the great increase of pressure. This is called ^-high-pres- sure." For instance, a boiler capable of containing three cubic feet of steam, the pressure of which is 20 lbs. to the square inch, has another three feet of the same pressure added ; then the pressure on the boiler would be doubled, or, as a ''pressure-gauge" would show, would equal 40 lbs. to the square inch, and so on until the boiler is burst by undue pressure. This clearly shows that it is absolutely necessary to provide ample means of escape for the steam generated in boilers, as most fright- ful accidents are constantly taking place from the neglect of this con- dition. We will now proceed to the mechanism required for developing the force of steam, so as to render it available for any purpose ^to which we may feel inclined to apply it. There are several different classes of engines, viz.: locomotives, marine, screw, paddle and trunk, vertical, horizontal, oscillating and beam. These different styles are mostly modifications of the arrangements of the hori- zontal and vertical engines. Locomotives and the ordinary arrangements of horizontal and vertical engines are what are termed ''high-pressure," whilst marine engines are "low-pressure condensing," and the beam en- gines frequently high and low-pressure condensing combined. Before going further, we think it advisable to describe as concisely as practicable what is meant by "condensing." The exhausted steam which has done its duty in the cylinder is conducted into a vessel in which aquantity of cold water is continuously injected in the form of a jet; this has the effect of turning the steam again into water, which is afterward partly made use of for feeding the boiler, and, as the water is warm, there is necessarily a saving of fuel.* ' This vpsspI is immorsod in a tnnk of cold water nnd is snpplcmpntiul into ri pump, by means of •which the water supplied by the injection and condensed steam are constantly being pumped out. This is called the air-pump. 30 E^TiRT EOT HIS OW^ST MAI^UFACTURER. This class of engine is not always available, on account of the large quantity of water required for condensing the steam. We will now give directions how to make the simplest kind of engine that can x^ossibly bo made, and which any boy of ordinary intelligence, possessing a slight knowledge of tools, can make at a very slight cost. It is a simple modification of the high-pressure engine, usually known as direct-acting, in which the cylinders (a single one in our case) oscillate j at the same time it is the weakest. As an oscillating, this is but one of a class, as many of our larger marine engines are built on that principle, the recommendation being the small compass in which they can be stowed. A; Fig. 1, is the boiler, which con- sists of a fruit-can about 4 inches in diameter by 4f inches in height, with a new end soldered on where it was opened. B, C, D, represent the gauge-cock, which is made by turning a piece of brass to the form indicated at C, ; and drilling a hole through it in the ^globular part, .which is then reamed out taper- ing. The plug, D, of the cock is turned to fit the hole in C, and seated by grinding it in with grindstone grit and oil at first, and after- ward with oil alone. A piece of wire will do for the handle. Cut a thread on D, and fit a nut on it to hold the plug D in C ; then put the The water surrounding the condensar, unless it were changed, woidd in time become •warm, and fail to effect the condensation. Tliis is remedied by the application o a pump and -waste- pipe to the cold cistern in which the condenser is submerged : the pump continually supplies cold water, which, by its comparative weight, has a tendency to sink to the bottom, and the waste- pipe, placed near the surface, lets the warm water escape, which, by its comparative lightness, ascends. Thus, by these arrangements, the method of condensation becomes complete.— i?/-. Lardner on the St^am-engine. EVERY BOY HIS 0Wi7 MANUEACTTJEER. 31 two together and drill a hole longitudinally through C and across D. The cock is then complete. It may be cheaper to purchase the cocks already made, at any gas-fixture or hardware establishment, but these directions are intended for those who cannot readily avail themselves of this accommodation. E is the safety-valve with its parts. F shows the form of the seat of the valve, which has a hole drilled through it, as seen by the dotted lines, and beveled at the top to receive the piece marked G-. Place these together and seat them by grinding, as in the case of the gauge-cock. Make a score in the small portion of G- to re- ceive the edge of the safety-valve lever. This lever is merely a light bar with a hole in each end, one end to be attached to a stud, or fulcrum, secured to the top of the boiler by soldering, and the other to a light spring on the side of the boiler with an adjusting nut at the top, or it supports a hook on which weights may be suspended. These described, two of the most important points relating to the boiler may be understood — the gauge, for ascertaining the height of the water; and the safety-valve, the means of regulating the steam-pressure. The cylinder of the engine is a piece of brass tubing, 2^ inches long and ^ inch internal diameter, ground out true. The piston is a disk of brass, I inch thick, with a wire soldered to its centre as the piston-rod. On ojjposite sides of the cylinder, near the top, are soldered two screwed pieces of wire designed to hold the cylinder end and stuf&ng-box combined, in place. Fig. 2 is a diagram of the cylinder and connections; A is the cylinder and the path of the crank-pin. Three holes are seen near the bottom of the cylinder, with an arc describing the oscillation of the cylinder, the upper hole being the centre of the circle of which the arc is a segment. On the side of the bottom ofthe cylinder is soldered a piece of brass, about 1-16 of an inch thick and f by 9-16 inch area. The lower hole is drilled through a plate into a cylinder near its bottom, the upper hole f of an inch above it and through the plate only, a small hole slightly indenting the cylinder being made exactly opposite without piercing the shell. Another piece of brass, i inch thick, f wide, and f long, has a hole drilled through it 9-16 of an inch from the bottom,.-and that receives a bit of wire soldered in and projecting 1-16 of an inch. On a f inch radius from thio point, 3-32 of an inch from the centre line, drill two holes — that on the right hand entirely through the piece and that on the left about half-way through, meeting one drill from the bottom. The inner faces of this plate and that on the cylinder must be fitted smoothly together. These constitute the valve faces, or valve and seat ofthe engine. The pillars or supports ofthe wheel, shaft, and crank, are rods of brass or iron, 3|- inches high, with holes near the top for the shaft. At the height of 9-16 of an inch from the bottom, a hole is drilled and tapped, through which a pointed screw is passed, the point of which enters the 32 EA^EET BOY HIS OWX MAXUEACTUKEE. hole in the side of the cylinder opposite that on which the plate is solder- ed. The thicker and separate plate is soldered to the top of the boiler, the side having both holes being placed inward or next the cylinder, and the left-hand hole meeting that through the bottom being directly over one through the top of the boiler. Place the faced side of the cylinder against the fixed plate, the projecting pin of which enters the hole in the cylinder-plate, and the pointed screw through the pillar engaging with the opposite hole in the side of the cylinder. The pillar is soldered in this position to the top of the boiler, and the other is similarly secured at the distance of about one inch. The cylinder bottom is 'a thin plate of brass soldered on. When the crank and piston are at their lowest points, the latter should not quite reach the lower hole in the cylinder. The wheel may be of iron, about 4i inches diameter, to be obtained at any iron foundry, or to be cast of lead, or lead and tin. The gauge-cock may be attached 3i inches from the bottom, and if filled to this height the boil- er will furnish steam for half an hour's safe running. The boiler may be filled by the safety-valve. To start the engine, set the boiler on a stove or range, or place it over a lamp. The first is the preferable mode, as being more cleanly. An engine of this fashion need not cost much, and its construction would alTord useful employment to boys in town or country, and be a source of pleasant and profitable amusement during winter evenings. HOW TO MAKE A WOEKTXa MODEL OF A LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE. The history of the Jocomotive is brief, but lull of interest ; and we feel sure that a short account of those early days will not be unwelcome to our readers. -The illustrious Watt, who may justly be regarded as the Father of the Steam Engine, appears to have been the first to conceive the idea of ap- plying steam to the propulsion of wheeled carriages. At that time, however, Watt was so actively and profitably engaged in the construc- tion and improvement of his stationary engines, that he soon relinquish- ed all thoughts of the locomotive, although he had obtained a patent for his invention. Watt's locomotive, as described in the specification of his patent, was to have a boiler formed of staves of wood, bound with iron hoops ; an iron furnace was to be fixed within this boiler, so that it might be nearly surrounded by water. The boiler and cylinder were to be secured on a carriage having wheels, worked by a piston of seven inches diameter and twelve inches stroke. Instead of a crank, a peculiar motion called sun •Sind planet wheels wsis substituted. This arrangement consisted of two EVERY BOY HIS OWX MAXUFACTUEER. 33 cogged or toothed wheels, one of which was fixed on the same axle as the wheels supporting the carriage, the other being made to revolve round it by the engagement of their cogs or teeth. The end of the con- necting-rod, which usually actuates the ordinary crank, was secured to the centre of the revolving- wheel, so that the reciprocating motion de- rived from the piston might cause the carriage- wheels to revolve and propel the vehicle. William Murdock, who was a friend and assistant of Watt, turned his attention to the locomotive, and soon constructed a working-model, which gave the first .promise of the future success that has now been realized. Murdock's little engine was a mere toy, and such as any oi our readers could easily construct. The diminutive locomotive had a copper boiler with an oblique flue within it, and was heated by a spirit- lamp. The piston had a stroke of two inches, and the cylinder was three- quarters of an inch in diameter. The cylinder was fixed on the top of the boiler, the piston-rod being attached to one end of a vibrating beam, which was jointed at the other extremity to an upright or pillar secured to the platform of the carriage. A connecting-rod was suspended from the beam within a short distance of the piston-rod, and actuated the crank-axle in the usual manner. The slide-valve was cylindrical, and derived its motion from the beam, which struck two projections or tappets which were formed on the valve-spindle. The plat- form or carriage was supported upon three wheels, two of which were for driving, and one for guiding the machine. The driving-wheels were nine and a-half inches in diameter, and placed a little in advance of the boiler. The guiding- wheel, which was four and three-quarter inches in diameter, was situated at the front end of the platform, and its position could be varied by a suitable handle or lever, so as to direct the vehicle. An amusing anecdote is related respecting this first attempt at steam propulsion, and small as the machine undoubtedly was, it had ample power, and acquired sufficient speed to enable it to outstrip its owner. One night, after Murdock had returned from his duties at the mine in Eedruth, Cornwall, where he had charge of the mining engines, he de- termined to make a practical trial of the capabilities of his little locomo- tive. The success of the experiment would of course be much influenced by the nature of the ground over which the miniature engine had to travel, and as it was formed to run upon rails, which were then unknown, it was a matter of considerable difficulty to find a sufficiently smooth and level track. After some cogitation, our hero remembered that a narrow pathway leading to the church was kept rolled like a garden-walk and would therefore be the most favorable trial-ground he could select. The night was dark, and he sallied out alone with his engine, lighted the lamp, and impatiently awaited the formation of sufficient steam to set 34 EYEKY BOY HIS OTYN MANUFACTURER. bis ingenious little machine in motion. He was not long kept in suspense as to the success of his labor, which exceeded bis most sanguine expec- tation. Off started the locomotive, with the inventor in full chase. He was soon left far behind, and was only guided in bis pursuit by the friendly glimmer of the lamp. Shortly after this he heard distant shouts, as of some one in distress ; but as it was quite dark, he was una- ble to see the person who was so lustily calling for assistance. As he drew near he found that the cries for aid proceeded from the worthy pastor, who, going into town on business, was met on this lonely road by w^hat he called "a fiery monster," whom he subsequently declared he took for the Evil One in jjropria persona. The events just recorded took place about the year 1784, and, contrary to what might have been expected, no further improvement was made in steam-locomotion until 1802, when Eichard Trevithick constructed the first locomotive which could be regarded as a practical application of steam to the propulsion of wheeled carriages. A patent was obtained 24th March, 1802, by Richard Trevithick and Andrew Vivian, of Corn- wall, for '^ methods of improving the construction of steam-engines, and their apphcation for driving carriages, and other purposes. The experimental engine, which was constructed according to their patent, was exhibited to the public in traversing the roadway near Euston Square, London. This engine was supported upon four wheels, like an ordinary carriage; the front pair were small and were used for guiding, and the engine was indirectly connected with the axle of the large wheels in the rear. The condensing apparatus, which formed so impor- tant a part of Watt's engines, was omitted in Trevithick's locomotive, which was made on the high-pressure principle. In this arrangement the steam, after driving the piston from one end of the cylinder to the other, was allowed to escape into the atmosphere, thereby dispensing with enormous weight and bulk, which would have deprived the machine of the greater portion of its useful effect as a locomotive. The engine was provided with one cylinder, which was placed horizontally, and en- closed with the boiler and furnace in an iron casing, situated behind the axle of the driving-wheels. The connecting-rod was not in communica- tion with this axle, but actuated an independent shaft on which the crank was formed. The motion of the crank-axle was imparted to the driving-axle by a pair of toothed wheels, one on each axle. The valves for regulating the admission and escape of the steam to and from the cylinder were opened and closed by rods which were set in motion by the crank-axle, which also worked a force-pump for supplying the boiler with water, and wrought a pair of bellows by which the fire was urged with sufficient intensity to generate the large quantity of steam required by the engine. This experimental engine, which was evidently originally made to run 36 EYEKY EOT HIS GOVTS' MA^TTACXrEEE. on the ordinary roads, was followed in 1804 by another, which differed from it in some respects, and was designed for traveling on an iron tram- road at Merthyi' Tydfil, in South Wales. The cylinder of this latter engine was eight inches in diameter, and the piston had a stroke of four feet six inches. The boiler was cylindrical, with flat ends, and was trav- ersed by a bent or return-flue. Tlie flue was an iron tube, in sbape resembling the letter U, and both ends were secured to one extremity of the boiler, one being fitted with furnace-bars and door, while the other communicated with the chimney or funnel. The cylinder was fixed ver- tically, and close to one end of the boiler, in which it was rather more than half immersed. This engine drew several trucks, which were loaded with ten tons of bar-iron, and attained a speed of five miles an hour, for a distance of nine miles, consuming only the water contained in the boiler at starting. In this eng-ine the bellows were omitted, and the required draught through the fire was maintained by ejecting the waste steam from the cylinder into the chimney. After this notable improvement, no very considerable alteration or advance was made in the construction of the locomotive until the year ISll, when a patent was granted to Mr. John Blenkinsop for ^' certain mechanical means" of conveying coals, etc. This patent also included an arrangement for obviating the inconvenience which arose from the wheels sometimes slipping round without advancing the machine. It was proposed to fix a toothed wheel on the axle of the engine, so that its teeth might engage in those of a rack which was to be bolted to the inner edge of one of the rails. Other schemes were devised, amongst which may be mentioned the endless chain and the automatic legs, but they were all wanting in simplicity, and could therefore be regarded only as ingenious. The rack, though the least complicated, was far from sat- isfactory, as the teeth were very subject to fracture, and the spaces be- tween them were very apt to become filled with gi'avel and stones, which might occasion serious jolts and jars to the machinery. Happily, all these diflSculties vanished almost as quickly as they appeared, and it was found that by distributing the weight of the engine so as to throw a greater load on the driving-wheels, they could be made to bite or adhere to the rails sufficiently for all ordinary purposes. We are now rapidly approaching an important epoch in the history of the locomotive. We have seen how the engine was successively im- proved as it passed through the hands of Trevithick and Blenkinsop; but it had not as yet any semblance of the locomotive of modern times. This great advance was reserved for a master hand; and it was not until the celebrated George Stephenson appeared in the field that the locomotive assumed its present proportions and enormous power. Stephenson's first locomotive, which was made at Kilhngworth Colliery in 1814, somewhat resembled Bleukinsop's engine in form and general EVERY BOY HIS OW^ MAITTJFACTURER. 37 arrangement. It had two cylinders, each twenty inches in diameter and two feet stroke. The cyhnders were fixed vertically, and partly within the boiler. The boiler, which was eight feet long and thirty-four inches diameter, had one internal flue of twenty inches diameter, which traversed it from end to end. The motion derived from the pistons was transmitted to the axles of the driving-wheels by means of gearing. Two independent axles were placed between those of the driving-wheels, and on the same level. These axles were driven by cranks, which were actuated by connecting-rods in the usual manner. The gearing con- sisted of five toothed wheels, two of which were two feet diameter, and three each one foot diameter. The large wheels were fixed on the driv- ing-axles, and engaged the teeth of two of the smaller wheels, which were placed on the independent axles. The remaining one-foot wheel was situated between its fellows, and served to equalize their action and maintain the cranks at right angles to each other. The gearing being two to one, it is evident that the cranks would make two revolutions to one of the driving-wheels. It is reported that this engine ascended an incline of one in four-hundred and fifty, drawing eight loaded carriages, the gross weight being thirty tons. The speed attained was about four miles per hour. The gearing occasioned considerable noise and jarring, which increased with the wear. Mr. Stephenson, with his friend, Mr. Dodds, devised a plan which superseded the gearing, and worked much more satisfactorily. Instead of independent crank-axles, a pin was fixed in one of the arms of each of the driving-wheels, and the con- necting-rods transmitted the power directly to them. An endless chain passed over suitable pulleys on the driving-axles, by which means the pins in the wheels were retained in their proper relative positions. For several years after the improvements just recorded, the locomotive remained almost unchanged, and the substitution of outside coupling- rods for the endless chain, and the application of steel springs between the carriage and axles, were the only alterations worthy of special men- tion. It was not until 1829, when the opening of the Liverpool and Man- chester Railway created a fresh stimulus, and pointed out the necessity for higher speed, that the locomotive cast aside its yoke as a mere drudge-horse and appeared on the course, proclaiming itself to be a ^^Rocket, " a '^ Meteor, " a ^^ Hurricane," or other representative of speed and power. It was evident that a colliery-engine, traveling at a rate of from four to five miles an hour, would be quite unsuited for passenger trafSc ; and so little was expected of the locomotive, that the directors of the new railway proposed to work their trains by means of chains or ropes, which were to be set in motion by stationary engines. About this time, George Stephenson constructed two lOcoraotives for the Lyons and St. Etienne Railway, of which M. Seguinwasthe engi 38 EVEKY BOY UlS OWN MAXUFACTURER. nccr. At a trial of these engines a speed of only four miles per hour was obtained, and M. Seguin determined to introduce an improvement of bis own into several new engines lie intended to make after the Stephen- son model. The evaporative power of the locomotive boiler was very deficient, and as the boiler could not conveniently be enlarged, another plan for extending the heating -surfiice, and thereby increasing the sup- ply of steam, was devised by this ingenious Frenchman. Instead of conducting the heated air and other products of combus- tion through one large flue-tube, M. Seguin substituted a number of comparatively small tubes, which were introduced between the furnace and the chimney. The hot air was thus divided into streamlets, and was effectually deprived of its heat by the water in which the tubes were immersed. The heating-surface by this means was enormously mcreased, and it was expected that the steam supply would be proportionably augmented. It was found, however, that the draught was materially retarded by the resistance which the air encountered in its passage through the tubes. To remedy this defect, M. Seguin employed a cir-" cular fan, which was only partially successful. M. Pelletan subsequently suggested the application of the steam-jet, or blast, which proved the crowning point of an invention that proclaimed a high rate of speed to be practicable : and even in these days of rapid improvement this plan has been preserved in its original integrity. In the spring of 1829, the directors of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway offered a premium of five hundred pounds for the best locomo- tive, to run on their line. It was stipulated that the engine should con- sume its own smoke ; that the pressure of the steam should not exceed fifty pounds on the square inch ; and that it should draw a load equal to at least three times its own weight, at a speed of not less than ten miles per hour; that the engine and boiler should be supported on springs, and not weigh more than four and a-half tons, if placed on four wheels ; that the height to the top of the chimney should be hmited to fifteen feet. Several other conditions of minor importance were advanced, but it is unnecessary to record them here. The following October was the time appointed for the trial. Three engines Tvere entered for competition; namely, the Rocket, by Mr. Stephenson ; the Sanspareil, by Hackworth ; and the Novelty, by Messrs. Braithwaite and Ericson. The ''race-course" was a level piece of railroad between Liverpool and Manchester, near a place called Rainhill. The distance between the two stations was a mile and a-half, and the engine was to traverse this distance, backward and forward, ten times, which made altogether a journey of thirty miles. The Rocket performed this journey twice in the most satisfactory manner. The first trip occupied two hours, four- teen minutes and eight seconds ; and the second run was made in two EVERY BOY HIS OWX MAXUEACTUEER. 39 hours, six minutes ana .orty-nine seconds. Tlie speed varied at differ- ent parts of the journey, and the greatest speed ever attained was a httle over twenty-nine miles an hour. The Rocket was declared winner of the race, oth the other engines having failed at an early stage of the contest. The Sanspareil performed the distance between the stations eight times, traveling twenty-two and a half miles in one hour, thirty-seven minutes and sixteen seconds. The greatest velocity to which this engine attained was a little under twenty- three miles an hour. The Novelty, after passing twice between the stations, was unable to proceed, owing to a serious leak in the boiler. The Rocket's success was attributed mainly to the admirable construc- tion of its boiler, which was made on M. Seguin's multitubular principle. In this engine the tubes were twenty-five iii number, and three inches diameter. In subsequent boilers the heating-surface was greatly in- creased, by augmenting the number of tubes and reducing their diameter. Some of the modern locomotives are furnished with from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fift^ tubes ; and on the Great Western Rail- way even a larger number is employed. When the number is very great the diameter is unduly diminished, and the tubes are liable to be choked by pieces of coke which are drawn into them by the violence of the draught. Failing space obhges us to bring this brief sketch of the early days of the locomotive to a close. On some future occasion an opportunity may perhaps be afforded us of investigating the improvements which have taken place of late years. We will now turn our attention to the Model Locomotive, a longitu- dinal elevation or side-view of which is shown in Fig. 1. Most of our readers will at once perceive that our little '^ fiery monster," like William Mur- dock's, can claim only a very distant relationship to a railway locomotive, either in shape or the mechanical arrangement of its parts. If any of our young readers were to ask why we did not tell them how to make the mod- el of a ''real locomotive," our answer would be, '^ because you could not succeed in such an undertaking, unless you were provided with requisite tools, and were well versed in their use." Even the simple toy we have selected cannot be constructed without the aid of a turning-lathe, which, is indispensable for the true formation of many of the circular portions of the work. We will begin by naming the several parts shown in Fig. 1. A, A, is the boiler, in which the steam is generated for supplying the cylinders ; B, the funnel for carrying off the smoke and other products of combus- tion arising from the lamp ; D, the steam-chest or dome in wbich the steam collects, previously to being used in the cylinders, one of which is seen at C ; E, the safety-valve which allows the surplus steam to escape ; g, the gauge-cock, for trying the height of the water in the boiler; L, L, 40 EYEEY BOY HIS OW]^ MAKUFACTUREE. the framing for carrying the boiler, cylinders, etc ; F, is one of the lead- ing-wheels; G, is one of the driving-wheels j and H, is one of the trail- iug-wheels ; I, I, are two of the wheels for carrying the tender, T, which serves as a reservoir or tank for the spirits of wine; 0, 0, is the lamp; and P, is the pipe which conducts the spirits to it from the tender ; R, the handle for opening and closing the communication between the boiler and the cylinders. The driving-wheels, shown perspectively in Fig. 2, are2f inches diam- eter, measuring over the flanges, /, / , which run between the rails, and keep the engine in its place ; the diameter of the tires, t, t, is 2f inches, and these latter support the engine and roll upon the surface of the rails. The width of the tire, including the thickness of the flange, may vary from three-sixteenth inch fo I inch. The bosses, b, b, are | inch diameter, and should be a little thicker than the width of the wheel, including both the tire and flange. The inner faces of the bosses, at b, must stand a trifle higher than the general level of the inside faces of the flanges, to keep the latter clear of the frame or carriage of the engine. The axle, A, A, should be made of a piece of iron or steel wire, a little nnder i inch diameter. As the inner faces of the bosses are required to be 3i inch apart, the axle must be about 3% inches long, to allow, say, i inch at each end for fixing in the bosses of the wheels. The axle may be screwed into the bosses, or, if preferred, it may be driven tightly into holes of the correct size ; there is, however, some danger of the wheels becoming loose, if the latter plan be adopted. The crank- pins, P, P, must be made of material similar, both in size and quality, to the axle. These pins should be f inch long, measuring from the face of the bosses to the inner sides of the beads, and they must be screwed into the bosses respectively, and at the same distance from the centres of the wheels. The stroke of the pistons will be f inch, consequently the centres of the holes for the crank-pins must be f inch from the centres of the axles. The holes must not be opposite each other, but at right angles, in order that one crank-pin may be in its high- est or lowest position when its neighbor is midway between the highest and lowest points of its revolution. By this arrangement, only one of the cranks can be on the dead-centre at a time ; so that when one piston reaches either end of its stroke, and its crank arrives at the dead-centre, the other piston is at half-stroke or half-way up the cylinder, and its crank, which may be either in the highest or lowest position, is most favorably situated for imparting motion to the wheels. In Fig. 1, the crank-pin for the cylinder, C, is in its highest position, and the cylinder, which is made on the oscillating principle, is inclined, to suit the angle it is con- strained to assume in the absence of a connecting-rod. If we could see the cylinder on the opposite side, we should find it level, or horizontal, and its crank-pin would be in a line with the centre of the cylinder. In Fig. 3, the carrying- wheels for the engine and tender are shown. EVERY EOT HIS OWN MANUFACTUKEE. 41 The tires are 1^ inch and the flanges f inch diameter ; the width being the stime as in the driving-wheels. The axle must be similar in every respect to the driving-axle. A perspective view of the framing, etc., is given in Fig. 4. The sides of the frame, L, L, are separate castings, and are connected by screws, s, s, to the foot-plate, I, at the back, and to the bufier-beam, B, at the front end. If we were to take a section through the frame between the horns, F, Gr, H, which rest on the axles of the wheels, we should find that it resembles the letter L in shape. The plates or flanges,/,/, which are solid with the sides, L, L, and form the right angles or L shape, impart great lateral or side-stiffness to the frame. One of the cylinder-bosses is seen at C ; the regulating-handle at R, and the screw or union for the steam- pipe at TJ. We shall speak farther respecting these parts presently. Fig. 5 is a side-view ; Fig. 9, a plan ; and Fig. 7, a section of one side- frame. The drawing is made to half the actual size, but the principal full- size dimensions are given. The section, S, S, is taken through the centre of one of the horns of the carrying-wheels ; a section at the driv- ing-wheel would be similar to, but shorter than, the others. Great care must be taken when marking the holes in the horns for the axles, other- wise the wheels will not bear equally on the rails, and the engine will either be poised on the driving-wheels, or the latter, by being out of contact with the rails, will spin round without advancing the engine. Half the diameter of the wheel, added to the length of the horn, measuring from the top of the frame to the centre of the hole for the axle, must give the same result in all the wheels, otherwise the engine cannot rest fairly on the rails. For instance, the diameter of the tires of the carrying-wheels is one inch and a half; take half this, or three-quarters of an inch, and add it to one inch and three-quarters, the length of the carrying-horn, and the result will be two inches and a half from the surface of the rail to the top of the engine-frame. Half the diameter of the driving-wheels is one inch and five-sixteenths, which, added to one inch and three-six- teenths, the length of the driving-horn, equals two inches and a half, the same as the other. If the flanges of all the wheels project the same amount beyond the tires, the engine will be able to run upon them without rails over a level floor. The side-frames. Figs. 5, 6, and 7, ought to be cast in brass ; and very few, if any, of our readers can do .this ; but they can make a model or pattern in wood, from which a brass-founder can cast any number that may be required. The pattern must be made a very little thicker and larger than the frames are to be when finished, to allow for filing and pohshing. It will be better to cast the frames without any holes, which latter can be wrought more satisfactorily at a more advanced stage of the work.. The slot, R, for the regulating-handle, and the gap. A, B; for EVERY BOY HIS OWN MANUEACTUREE. 43 the foot-plate, can easily be cut out in the brass ; therefore the flange in the pattern may be solid, and extend from one end to the other. The holes in the horns, for the axles, must, of course, be drilled in the brass after the frames have been filed smooth on the outside ; the inside may be left rough from the sand. The buffer-beam, which is placed between the side-frame, at the front end of the engine, is seen in Fig. 8. This part may be cast from a pat- tern, or it can be made of hard-rolled sheet-brass. The width between the pieces, W,W, must be as much under the external width of the side- frames as the thickness of the latter ; the outside width of the frame is three inches, and if the sides be each one-sixteenth of an inch thick, the width, W, W, must be two inches and seven-eighths. The depth of the buffer -beam should be the same as that of the frames, but its thickness must be nearly one-eighth of an inch, otherwise it will not be sufQcieutly stiff. The buffers, B,B, of course, are only ornamental ; and not being fitted with springs, like those employed in actual practice, cannot miti- gate the violence of a shock occasioned by the engine running against any unyielding object. In our model, the buffers are little knots of brass, which may be turned in the lathe to suit the fancy, and they must be formed with a small stem or shank at one end, by which they can be riveted to the buffer-beam. The foot-plate. Fig." 9, must likewise be cast from a wooden pattern. The length, a, b, must be the same as w, to, in Fig. 8, so that the frames may be the same distance apart at both ends. The parts, a, a, J), h, lie between the frames, and are secured to them by four screws, 5, s, s, s, two on each side, as may be seen in Figs. 1 and 4. A platen, e, e, represented by dotted lines, is a means of fastening the boiler, which is secured to it 1^ two small screws,/,/; similar screws should be provided at the buffer-beam. The hand-rails, one of which is shown separately in Fig. 10, are more ornamental than useful in a model, and our readers" may dispense with them, as they do not in any way affect the working of the engine. If provided, the rail may be cut out of a piece of sheet-brass, a little more than one-eighth of an inch in thickness. The four edges of two pieces of brass, each three inches long by one inch and a half wide, ought to be filed square to one another, after which, the bars must be pitch- ed, or measured out with a pair of compasses. The space between the bars can be cut out by first drilling several holes close together, and then finishing with a small file. The rails are secured to the top flanges of the side-frames by two small screws, s, s, one at each end. Fig. 11, is a section -, Fig. 12, an elevation ; and Fig. 13, a plan of one of the cylinders. Those parts which correspond in the several views are indicated by the same letter, to avoid needless repetition. The body of the cylinder, C, is five-eighths of an inch diameter outside, and the bore 44 EYERT BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTUEER. is half an inch diameter. The length of the cylinder, measuring to the faces of the flanges,/, /,is one inch and a quarter, and the diameter of the flanges is seven-eighths of an inch. The cover, H, which is toward the the crank, is fitted with a screw-cap, g, called, the gland, which com- presses a small quantity of lamp-cotton packing around the piston-rod, - K, to prevent the steam escaping past it. It would be very difficult to make the piston-rod to fit the hole in the cover so closely that no steam should escape, and yet not occasion an injurious amount of friction. The socket, S, into which the gland, g, screws, is called the stuffing- box. When we wish to pack the piston-rod, it is only necessary to un- screw the gland, slip it along the rod, and wind a little soft lamp-cotton round the latter, about sufficient to three parts fill the stuffing-box ; then press the packing into the box,, adding a few drops of oil, and screw the gland down about two or three turns. Care must be taken not to compress the packing too much at first, otherwise the engine will work very stiffly, and it is always easy to tighten the gland at any time when steam or water escapes past the rod. Both covers, H and I, are secured to the cylinder-flanges by three screws in each. The covers and flanges must rest so fairly in contact, that a thin layer of red-lead paint, smeared over the faces of the flanges, may be sufficient to prevent the escape of steam when the covers are fixed by the screws. The steam is admitted to, and escapes from the cylinder by the pas- sages or ports, L and M, seen in Figs. 11 and 12. These passages, which are circular, must be drilled in the nozzU, N, N, and in the face, F, which are cast solid with the cyhnder. Considerable care must be taken when drilling these holes not to carry them too far, or the cylinder will be spoilt. It will be safer to drill the holes in the nozzle first, taking the precaution to mark the depth of the hole upon the sh#nk of the drill, so that you may know when the correct depth has been reached. The holes in the face, F, must be drilled at right angles to those in the noz- zle, and it may be advisable to mark their depth on the drill, to lessen the danger of breaking into the cylinder in the event of the nozzle-holes not being sufficiently deep to insure their junction with the former. The holes, L and M, on the face, F, must be exactly in a line with the centre of the cylinder, and also at the same distance from the centre of the stem, S. The dotted circle, which is three-eighths of an inch diame- ter, passes through the centres of the holes ; consequently their centres are three-sixteenths of an inch distant from the centre of the stem, S. The piston, P, is a solid piece of brass, five-sixteenths of an inch thick, and it may be turned so accurately that it will fit the cylinder without packing ; but, unless the work be very exact, it would be better to turn a groove in the cicumference of the piston, for lamp-cotton packing. The rod, E, is screwed both ends, one extremity being engaged by the pis- ton, and the other by the cap, D, which actuates the crank-pin. The EYERT BOY HIS OVH^ MAXTJFACTTJKER. 45 piston is supposed to be ascending the cylinder ; and the arrow, M, shows the course of the steam as it flows from the boiler under the piston to urge it forward ; the arrow, L, represents the waste steam escaping as it is displaced by the rising piston. When the piston reaches the top of the cylinder the action will be reversed, and the steam will enter the port at which it is now escaping, and make its exit where it is now being admit- ted. TVe shall consider this action more fully hereafter. A longitudinal section of the boiler is given in Fig. 14, and a trans- verse section in Fig. 15. In Fig. 14, the boiler is supposed to be cut in half in the direction of its length j and in Fig. 15, the end in front of the fun- nel is removed. The barrel of the boiler, A, A, is two inches and three- quarters in diameter, seven inches and three-eighths in length, and lit- tle more than one thirty- second part of an inch in thickness. This part may be made of a piece of brass tube, or of sheet copper; but very few of our amateur readers will be able to construct this boiler satisfactorily, unless they have had considerable practice in the art of working sheet metals. The funnel, B, is a piece of brass tube, three-quarters of an inch in diameter and two inches and a half in length. The upper end is formed with a bell-shaped mouth, and the base next the boiler is ornamented by a moulding, M, which is added as a separate piece. The funnel is not attached to the boiler, but is simply slipped over a tube or flue, H, the outside diameter of which exactly fits the inside of the chimney, B. The flue, H, must be firmly soldered to the fire-box, F, F, and also to the boiler, otherwise either steam or water will ^^be sure to escape, and oc- casion much trouble. The fire-box, as may be seen by referring to Fig. 15, consists of two in- clined plates, which extend from one end of the boiler to the other ; a piece of sheet copper, about four inches wide, seven inches and a quar- ter in length, and one thirty-second part of an inch in thickness, must be. bent into the shape, a, h, c, a, d,f, Fig. 15. The sides of the fire-box, a, b, a, d, are each one inch and a half wide, and, h, c, d,f, are about half an inch deep. This box must be strongly soldered along the seams, h and d, and also to the end-plates of the boiler. A, A. The steara-dome, D, is made of cast brass, and is provided with a flange, which is curved to fit the cylindrical form of the boiler. The dome is one inch diameter, and one inch and three-eighths high. One end of the steam-jjipe, S, S, rises into the dome to take the dryest steam for the cylinders ; and in order to check, as far as possible, the entrance of water into the pipe, its upper end is closed, and a number of small holes are drilled round the sides, through which the steam is strained and separated from the watery particles it holds in suspension. As the steam-pipe passes through the top of the fire-box, It must be soldered thereto ^ otherwise the water would escape. The diameter of FiffJl Ticf.W f |«9 m I m iiruJiii EVERY BOY HIS OTVN" MAXUFACTUEER. 47 the Steam-pipe should not exceed one-quarter of an inch ; it may be either coi^per or brass tube. The union, u, connects the steam-pipe to the socket, V, Fig. 4, where the steam branches to the right and left to sup- ply the cylinders. At E, Fig. 14, the safety-valve is shown in section, and it will be seen that the valve is pressed down by a spiral spring, which is made of hard brass wire. The pressure of the spring may be Increased by screwing down, and mitigated by unscrewing the cap, c, which must be altogether removed when we wish to withdraw the valve to supply the boiler with water. If the valve cover a hole about one-eighth of an inch diameter, it will be sufficiently large ; and if the spring keep the valve down with a force of about one-quarter of a pound, the steam must acquire a pressure of nearly twenty pounds on the square inch before it will raise the valve and escape. The water should never be allowed to subside below the level, W, W. otherwise there is a danger of the top of the fire-box being left dry. If the joints of the boiler be soft-soldered they will give way if the water be suffered to boil too low ; but if the separate portions be braized together, timely notice of the deficiency of water will be given by the rapidly faihug steam before the hard solder begins to melt. When charging the boiler with water, the gauge-cock, <;, must be open- ed : and when the water trickles from it in a fine stream, the boiler may be considered as sufficiently full. The cock must frequently be opened while the engine is at work, and directly steam, unmixed with water, es- capes from it, the lamp must be extinguished. This precaution is abso- lutely necessary ; for, although the joints may not fail, the sides of the fire-box, if over-heated, are very liable to be distorted by the pref^sure of the steam, and may perhaps collapse and be totally destroyed. Fig. 16 is a sectional elevation of the tender and spirit-lamp. The tender is something like a box, minus one end and the cover. Our ten- der must be four inches and a half in length, three inches in width, the same as the engine-frame, and about two inches and a quarter deep. By inspecting Fig. 16, it will be seen that the tender has a second or false bottom, &, &, and the back is made in the same manner. An inch space exists between the two bottoms, which serves as a spirit-tank, from which the lamp, O, draws it supply through the pipe, P, by means of the lamp-cotton wick, W, W, W. The lamp, 0, is four inches and a half in length, two inches and a half in width, three-quarters of an inch in depth, and is furnished with three burners, f, t, t, which consist of short pieces of brass tube about a quarter of an inch diameter. The second burner is not placed quite in the centre between the two external ones, in order to escape the axle of the driving-wheels. The lamp is connected by a union, d, to the pipe, P, which is about three-eighths of an inch diameter inside, to afford sufficient room for the cotton-wick or syphon, which 48 EVERY BOY HIS OWN MANTTFACTUEEE. must not completely fill the pipe, otherwise its action will be imperfect. A rouna or square hole must be made In the bottom, h, h, or rather the top, of the spirit-tank, to enable us to introduce the wick; this hole should be covered with a hinged lid, Z, to prevent the Spirit evaporating with more than necessary rapidity. A small hole, however, should be made through the cover to admit a little air, which is required in order to main- tain an exact equilibrium of atmospheric pressure. If the cover did not fit closely, no hole would be needed, as the air would enter without ob- struction. A small hole must be made in the top of the lamp at 7i, for the same reason that wc have already given. When we wish to trim the lamp, the union, d, must be unscrewed, in order to separate the lamp from the tender. The cotton, W, W, can be drawn through the tube,P, with a piece of fine wire, which can be easily passed round the bend in the pipe. One end of the cotton dips into the spirit contained in the tender, and the other extremity is placed inside the lamp. The lamp-wicks should fit their tubes moderately tight, and should be sufficiently long to bear trim- ming two or three times. The ends must be cut with a pair of scissors every time the lamp is used. If the syphon -wick overcharge the lamp with spirit, a small plug of wood must be inserted in the mouth of the tube to check the capillary action of the cotton. The tender itself may be made of tin or zinc ; but more costly material such as copper or brass, is preferable. The lamp may be constructed of the same metal as the tender. Two light brass frames, one of which is seen at/,/,/. Fig. 16, are secured to the bottom of the tender, close to its eides, by which the wheels are attached in a similar manner to those of the engine. The tender-wheels are similar in every respect to the carrying* wheels of the engine, and must be precisely of the same gauge ^ By ^ 'gauge" is meant the distance existing between the outer faces of the flanges of a pair of wheels which are fixed on the same axle. This may be rendered clearer by turmng to Figs. 2 and 3, in which the space between g, g, represents the gauge. Now, as the outer faces of the flanges must run between the rails, and close to thoir inner edges, it Is absolutely nec- essary that all the wheels should be of uniform gauge. The gauge of the rails is made a little wider than that of the wheels, to afford the latter sufficient freedom; for, although the rails ought to be exactly the same distance apart, or the same gauge, throughout their entire extent, yet some slight discrepancy is sure to arise in practice. It is therefore neces- sary to allow a httle clearance between the rails and^the flanges to pre- vent any locking or jamming, which otherwise would be certain to occur. The tender is attached, or coupled, to the engine by means of a short brass strap, a, b, and a small thumb-screw, s, Fig. 16. One end of the strap, b, is fastened to the tender, but the other extremity, a, which is temporarily secured to the engine by the screw, 5, must be allowed a little liberty, to enable the engine and tender to pass round a curve ; a EVEEY BOY HIS OWN MAKUPACTUBEB. 49 hole, c, is made and tapped in the foot-plate; Fig. 9, for the reception of the coupling-screw. We must now consider the apparatus for distributing the steam to the cyhnders. This arrangement is drawn full size, in order to show every part as distinctly as possible. Fig. 17 is a sectional elevation; Fig. 19 is a plan partly in section ; and Fig. 18 is an end-view. The parts which correspond in the three representations are indicated by the same letter. The pipe, P, P, Figs. 17 and 19, is a solid brass casting, of which the parts, B, B, and A, form a portion. A hole, L, L, one-eighth of an inch diameter, is drilled from one end of the piece, P, P, to within about one- eighth of an inch of the other extremity, as may be seen in Fig. 17, after which the mouth of the hole is closed by a small brass plug, d, which ia screwed in and filed level. This plug must not exceed one-eighth of an inch in length, otherwise it will obstruct one or two holes which are drill- ed at right angles to the first. These holes are made at p, p, and are plugged at the mouth in a similar manner to the one just completed. The passage, L, L, is made much larger than those at p, p, because it is required to supply both the latter, which furnish their respective cylin- ders with steam. The hole, I, is the same size as L, L, and receives the steam directly from the steam-pipe, which is placed in connection with it by the union, U, Fig. 4. The course of steam as it flows from the hole, or short branch-pipe, I, is shown by the arrows in Figs. 17 and 19. A modification of an ordinary stop-cock, T, is provided at T, to open and close the communication between the steam-pipe and distributing-pipe, P, P. Instead of making a hole through the plug of the cock in the usual manner, a semicircular groove is cut about one-third round it, of sufficient width and depth to afford the steam a free passage. When this groove is so placed that it communicates both with the steam-pipe and the branch, I, Fig. 19, the steam can flow into the channel, L, L, and so reach the cylinder ; but when the blank part of the plug covers either, or both, of the holes, the passage of the steam is stopped. This is effected by the regulating-handle, R. In Fig. 17, one of the cylinders, C, is attached to its boss, B, and is placed vertically, in order to secure greater distinctness in the drawing, though the horizontal is its proper working-position, as may be seen in Fig. 1. The cylinder is held in its place by the stem, S (seen also in Fig. 11), which, passes, through the hole, H, in the centre of the boss. A thin brass plate, or washer, W, is then slipped over the end of the stem, which is formed as a screw, in order that it may be secured by the small nuts, 71, n, which also keep the face, F, of the cylinder in close contact with that of the boss. The first nut, or the one next the washer, W, must be screwed down sufficiently tight to cause the cylinder-face to bear against the face of the boss, without occasioning so much friction be- tween them as to interfere with the easy working of the engine ; the sec- EYERY BOY HIS 0W2T MANUFACTUREE. 51 ond nut must be screwed up to the first, holding the first so that it may not turn when the second nut is jammed against it, as the cylinder would thus be set fast. Nuts employed in this way are called jam-nuts, or lock- nuts. This arrangement is frequently adopted in situations where a single nut would be apt to work loose. The cylinder-face, F, is made conica. around its circumference^ as may be seen in the section, Fig. 11. The conical or taper part should fit closely into a conical recess which is formed in the boss to receive it : this will be understood by referring to Fig. 17. It is not absolutely nec- essary that the circumference of the face, F, should touch the boss; but the face itself must rest fairly on the face of the boss, otherwise the engine will never work. If the faces and the circumferences can all be made to bear equally, so much the better ; but, to insure this, very accu- rate workmanship will be indispensable. If the conical positions are omitted, the circumference of the cylinder-face may bo quite plain, or of the same diameter throughout, and the boss will not then require the conical recess or the counter-sink, and therefore may be quite flat. An annular groove, r, r, Fig. 18, must be formed in the face of the boss, to enable the steam to enter and escape from the holes, or ports, L, M, in the cyhnder-face, Fig. 12. The width of this groove, or ring, must exact- ly equal the diameter of the holes, L, M, ; its depth should be about one-sixteenth of an inch, and its diameter must be sufficient Just to cover the holes. A hole, a, FigS. 17 and 18, is drilled into the short passage, p, leading from the distributing-pipe, P, P; and the groove, r^ r, is thus supplied with steam. If we were now to fix the cylinder to the boss, both the ports, L and M, would take steam simultaneously from the groove, r, r, Fig. 18, and, as the steam would press equally upon the opposite sides of the piston, it would remain stationary. This difficulty is surmounted by inserting in the groove two small brass plugs of the same diameter as the holes, L, M. These plugs must be so situated that a horizontal line may be drawn through their centres and that of the hole, H. The plugs must be filed or turned level with the general surface of the boss, otherwise the cylinder-face will not rest fairly upon it. If the cylinder be now put in its place, we shall find, on bringing it in- to the horizontal position, that the holes, L, M, are covered by the plugs, e,f; consequently, no steam can enter the cylinder ; but in any other posi- tion, one of the holes must either be above or below its respective plug. If the stuffing-box end of the cylinder be raised, the hole, L, will be placed above its plug, and the steam that issues from the passage. A, filling the upper half of the groove, r, r, will enter the cylinder. The op- posite extremity of the cylinder, of course, is correspondingly depressed ; the hole,- M, therefore, is now below its plug, and the waste steam es capes by the lower hali of the groove into the open air. The plugs, e,/. 52 EVEEY BOY HIS OWl^ MAJ^TUFACTUIIER. must effectively cut off any communication between the upper or steam half of the groove and the lower or exhaust half. The waste steam that is discharged from the cylinder finds an outlet at E, which is a deep notch filed in the lower part of the boss for that purpose. The oscillation or swiveling of the cylinder on its centre, or stem, s, Figs. 11 and 17, causes the ports, L and M, to communicate alternately with the steam and exhaust portions of the groove in the boss. The piston therefore will continue to travel backward and forward in the cylinder, provided the latter is supplied with steam, and the oscillating motion is maintained. If we fulfill the first of these conditions, viz, to keep up the supply of steam, the oscillation of the cylinder may be in- sured by simply attaching the piston-rod cap, D, Fig. 12, to the crank- pin, as may be seen in Fig. 1. This will be sufficiently evident, if we re- member that the reciprocating motion of the piston is changed into a rotative one at the crank, and that by attaching the piston-rod directly to the crank-pin we obliged the cylinder and piston-rod to perform the functions of a connecting-rod, which is well known to oscillate while fol- lowing the circular path described by the crank-pin. The cylinder-face, and the face of the boss, must be made so true, and rest so closely in contact, that no steam can escape between them after the lock-nuts have been properly a,djusted. To insm-e so accurate a fit between two hard surfaces, one of which is continually moving over the other, will be found by amateur engineers to be a matter of no small difficulty. Although very few of our readers are hkely to attempt to fin- ish the cylinder and boss faces for themselves, we will, nevertheless, describe the process, as some may wish to put their skill to the test. The cylinder-face must be turned in the lathe as flat and smooth as possible, and the boss-face must be filed flat, unless the counter-sink shown in Fig. 17 be adopted, in which case both the counter-sink and the face should be wrought with a tool called a pin-drill. As we have not space at present to explain the formation and use of this, or, indeed, of any of the tools which are required in the construction of a model of a steam-engine, we must content ourselves by supposing that this portion of the work has been satisfactorily completed. If the boss be formed without a counter-sink, the cylinder-face may be used to assist us in making the boss-face flat. A httle red-lead must be mixed to a thick paste with oil, and a very small portion must be taken on the finger and evenly smeared over the cylinder- face. The stem, s, Fig. 11, should then be inserted in the hole, H, Figs. 17 and 18, and the cylinder, which is held between the finger and thumb of the right hand, must be twisted partly round, backward and forward, taking care to keep the face firmly in contact with that of the boss. On withdrawing the cylinder, we shall find that some of the red-lead, or coloring matter, has been transferred to the face of the boss, but probably in only one or EVEEY BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTURER. 53 two places. These spots upon which the red Has been deposited are higher then the general level, and consequently must be lowered before the cylinder-face can touch the entire surface of the boss-face. The prominences indicated by the red must be reduced by a small and smooth file, being careful not to remove too much ; the file -dust must be wiped off the boss, and the finger passed over the cylinder-face to re- store the red to those parts from which it has been removed. The cyl- inder-face is again applied to and rubbed against that of the boss, and the colored spots are filed down, as before. This operation must be con- tinued until the cylinder-face touches that of the boss equally, all round, when the file may be laid aside, preparatory to finishing the surfaces by grinding them together. Flour emery of different degrees of fineness may be used in grinding iron or steel surfaces, but it is less suitable than some other substances for brass work. Very fine sand may be used with advantage, and some- times the slush that collects at the bottom of a grindstone trough, or the dust produced by turning up the stone, is employed with good re- sults. ■ The grinding material must be of uniform coarseness, otherwise it will act unequally, and injure, instead of improving, the surfaces. The sand or slush must be mixed with sufiacient water to enable it to spread over the surface to which it is applied. A thin and uniform layer of wet grinding material must be applied by the finger to the cylinder-face, which is then rubbed with very slight pres- sure against the face of the boss. The position of the cylinder must oc- casionally be varied, in order that the surfaces may be acted upon as equally as possible. The surfaces should frequently be separated, to al- low the sand to change its position, and also to enable us to see when the surfaces require wetting, as they will be damaged if suffered to become dry. Fresh sand must be applied from time to time, and the process must be continued until both surfaces present a uniform appearance. The sand must then be thoroughly 'washed off, and, after drying the work, a little oil should be smeared over the surfaces, which ought to be rub- bed together until they become smooth and bright. The oil must fre- quently be renewed, as it soon becomes charged with minute particles of brass, and perhaps of sand, which greatly retard the polishing. By referring to Fig. 4 our readers will observe that the part A, of the distributing-pipe, P, P, is secured to the cross-bar, m, m, by two screws, tj t. The cross-bar is also attached by screws to the side-frames. We must now bring this paper to a close, and while wishing our friends every success, we may observe that those portions of the engine — such as the boiler, cylinders, etc. — which present more than usual difficulties, can be purchased for a small sum of any, modeler who is in the habit of mak- ing miniature steam machinery. 54 E'V'EEY HOT HIS OWN MAUUFACTUKER. HOT\r TO MAKE A MODEL STEAMBOAT. lu the following article I shall endeavor to explain to my readers how they may make a cheap model paddle steamboat. The first part to be made is the hull. For this you must obtain a piece of either pine or ash (free from knots and other imperfections), a little over twenty-two inches long, and about five inches thick ; you must now carefully shape your hull, as shown in Fig. 2, having done which to your satisfaction, you must draw a straight line down the cen- tre of your deck, and measure five inches from the stem, and the same number of inches from the stern ; the space between this you must care- fully hollow out, in order to make room for the machinery ; the part to be removed is shown between the two dotted lines, A A and B B, in Fig. 2. Fig. 1 will give you a general view and idea of our steamer. A is the paddle-box, B the boiler, C C the two funnels, D the cylinders, &c., E the waste steam-pipe, F the rudder, H the paddle-wheel axle ; I is a tap which can be worked on deck, and by turning which the engines can be stopped or set in motion at pleasure; N is a pipe leading from the boiler to the cylinder; T is the safety-valve, and L the lamp. The boiler is the only part you will not be able to make yourself; any tinman or coppersmith would, however, make it for a trifle; it can either be "of block- tin or brass; if made of block-tin it would be some- what cheaper, but brass looks much better, and, besides, is more dura- ble, and therefore to be preferred ; the boiler should be six inches and a half long, and three inches in diameter, and it should be hard sol- dered. We will now proceed to make the cylinders and parts connected with the same; and here some little patience and care will be required, in order to make the parts work evenly and accurately. Before we make the cylinders, &c., I had perhaps better explain how these parts work; to do this I must refer you to Fig. 3 . Here, N is the pipe leading from the boiler, H the paddle-wheel axle, M the cylinder, the steam-box, P the piston, R the side-valve, E the waste steam-pipe, and T U, two openings leading from the steam-box to the cylinder. And now, to ex- plain how these work. The steam enters the steam-box by the pipe N; as the passage T is closed by the side-valve R, it is forced to go through the passage U, and thus drives the piston P down, whilst the waste steam, which previously drove the piston P up, escapes through the passage T, and thence, by the waste steam-pipe at E, into the air. When, however the piston P is driven down, the order of things is reversed ; then, as will be directly seen by the arrangement of the EVERT BOY HIS OTOT MANUFACTUUER. 55 two cranks Q Q, the side-valve R is drawn up, and ttie passage T is left open, while that of U is closed, and thus the piston P is driven up again. Having, as I trust, fully and clearly explained the working of the cy- linder and steam-box, we will comraence to make the same. The cylin- der should be two inches and a quarter long, and one inch and a quar- ter in diameter ; an old telescope tubo, of about those dimensions; would 56 EVEEY BOY HIS OWN MA^TJTACTUEEE. do very well. To make the piston, we must place the cylinder on a flat stone, and ran some melted lead to the bottom, to the thickness of a penny ) whilst in a molten state, we must place a ^.iece of strong straight wire perpendicularly in it, so that when the lead cools it may he firmly fixed to the same. The steam-box and side-valve next require our attention : the steam-box should be two inches and a quarter long, and about three-quarters of an inch in diameter; any piece of pipe, or tube, provided it is straight and even throughout, will do ; having ob- tained which, we must proceed to make the side-valve E; to do this we must place the steam-box on a piece of flat stone, and pour some melted lead into the bottom, in precisely the same manner as already described in making the piston — only, mstead of being the thickness of a penny, the lead should be run in till the steam-box is about three-quarters full; then, in the manner already described, we must place a piece of straight wire perpendicular in the centre of the lead, so as to be fixed firmly to the same when it cools. By referring to Fig. 3, the general shape of the side-valve wiU be seen, and when, of course, we take it out of the steam- box, it will be a perfect cylinder; we must, however, carefully file it to the required shape, futher particulars of which will be given as we pro- ceed. We have now the cylinder, piston, and piston-rod made ; but, as yet, the cylinder is open at both ends ; these must be secured by means of two pieces of brass, filed to the required size, and afterwards soldered securely on ; a small hole must, however, first be carefully made in the top one, for the piston-rod to pass through ; and the ends of the steam- box must also be secured in a hke manner. The two passages, T and U, must now be made in the side of our cy- linder, and two other similar passages must be bored through our steam- Dox, in order to meet them. The intervening space between the steam- box and cylinder, (see Fig. 3) must be filled with solder; the hole E, for the waste steam pipe, can be easily bored after the solder is set ; and our cylinder, steam-box, &c., are complete. We will now secure our boiler, cylinder, &;c., in their respective posi- tions; before we do which, however, we must line the inside of the hull with tin, to prevent the wood from being scorched or burnt by the heat of the lamp. The boiler is supported by two pieces of stout wire, ends of which are securely fixed into the bottom of the boat. The cyhnders, (tec, must be fixed as shown in Fig. 1; they must be kept in their pro- per positions by means of two pieces of wood, S S, which should be firmly screwed to the bottom of the boat ; a slight groove should be cut in the wood, in order to receive the cylinder, which should be futher se- cured by means of two thin brass bands being placed around it, and af- terwards well screwed down on either side of the same. The boiler, cylinder, &c., being duly fixed, the paddle-wheels next re- EVERY BOY HIS 0^^^ MAXITFACTmiEE. 57 quire our attention : for these, four wheels, or discs, are necessary, to make which we must procure a sheet of thin brass, and, with a compass, describe four circles on it ; these should be four inches and three quar- ters m diameter j the shape of our wheels will be best seen in Fig. 4, which represents one of the paddles complete — that is, two ot our discs joined together with the paddles. We shall require ten floats to each paddle-wheel, which must be cut out of some hard wood, and should be as thin as possible, and about half an inch long. Having completed the paddle-wheels, we have now their axle to make ; this consists simply of a piece of straight wire with two cranks bent in it, (see Fig. 3) for the piston and valve-rod to work. We must now join the two paddle-wheels to the ends of the axle; the piston and side-valve rod must also be joined to their respective cranks; this is easily done by bending the ends of the piston and valve-rod round the axle, taking care to bend them sufficiently loose, that the parts may work freely. We have now a safety-valve to make ; for this we must procure a piece of thin pipe, a littie over an eighth of an inch in diameter ; this we must solder on the top of our boiler, in the posi- tion shown at T, Fig. 1 ; enclosed in this pipe is a piece of watch or spiral spring, which keeps down a small piece of metal, which metal is forced up when the steam is too strong in the boiler, thus allowing it to escape. The boiler must now be put into communication with the cylinder, by means of a piece of thin pipe, as shown in Fig. 1 ; we must also make and fix a small rudder, as shown, after which we have only the deck- covering and two funnels and paddle-boxes to make to complete our boat. The deck should be made of tin ; two holes must be oored in it for the two funnels, and another at 0, (see Fig. 1) in order to admit a cur- rent of fresh air, without which our lamps would go out ; the use of the chimneys is not merely ornamental, they serve to carry away the vitiated air and waste steam. We can, it we choose to, make our boat look more important, fix and rig a hght mast in front of the same at ; and also a glass covering might be placed over the cylinders, &c. The weighL of the boiler, machinery, &c., will generally be found sufficient ballast; should, however, our boat appear liable to capsize, we shall have to nail a thin strip of lead along the bottom, which will also serve for a keel — and our boat is finished. 58 EVERT EOT HIS 0-mT lIAifTTFACTUBEE. TO MAKE A STEAM OTLIKDEE. As I remarked in the previous article, the cylinder is the most difficult part of a model engine to be made by an amateur. This difficulty is caused by the almost impossibility of making a perfectly steam-tight surface. For the production of such a surface a good lathe is necessary, which article is rather too expensive to be possessed by every amateur. I propose, therefore, to describe the construction of such a cylinder as may be in the power of every boy to make, and that for a few cents. The only necessaries are — three brass cylindrical boxes, half an inch diameter, such as are used for holding pens (nibs) or matches, 1 lb. of lead, a couple of pieces of soft wood to make a mould, and a small ves- sel, or iron spoon, in which to melt the lead. Before I begin the construction I must give a description of the four- way-cock, which I used as a valve. Fig. 1 is a section. The circular part is a section of the cock, which, instead of being pierced directly across, as in the common cock, is pierced in a curved direction in two places ; so that there are four openings, a, b, c, d, at right angles to each other, which communicate as shown in the figure. Let the cock be in the position shown in the figure — A the steam pipe ; B the escape pipe ; c and d the openings above and below the piston. Admit steam at a, it goes into d, while the waste steam goes out at b. Xow turn round the cock a quarter of a revolution, as shown by the dot- ted lines, and the steam goes into c, and the waste goes from d to b. But instead of taking the trouble of piercing the cock thus, we may file it, as shown in Fig. 2, with a semi-circular file, section A, appearance of cock b. It is evident that the same result will take place. Now for the work. Fig. 3 is a section, and Fig. 4 an elevation of the work complete. Pierce a hole in the side, close to the bottom of pen boxes (or cylinders) 1 and 2. In the middle of the side of cylinder (or cock) 3, pierce four holes, with an awl or drill, diametrically opposite, as a, b, c, d. Fig. 1. Make two small rolls of paper, damped, and rolled tight. Insert one roll through the opposite holes in cyhnder 3, leaving about half an inch pro- jecting on each side. Insert each projecting end into the holes at the bottoms of cylinders 1 and 2. Put the other roll of paper through the other opposite holes in cylinder 3. (These papers are cores of the tubes entering the cylinder boiler and escape pipe.) Now out of the piece of wood make a mould, plan A, elevation B, fig. 5. Cut a hole, c, of an elliptical shape, 2 inches long and 1 deep. At right angles, and at the centre of the former holes, cut another -circular EVEEY BOY HIS OVTS AJ A XUFACTrEEK. 59 one, D, exactly the diameter of cylinder 3 (as shown by the dotted lines in A, fig. 5.) Now put cylinder 3 through the holes. In the oval hole put the other two cylinders perpendicular, at each side of the horizontal one, not touching the bottom of mould. Xext insert the papers as be- fore shown. Support the cylinders, and pour in enough of lead to cover the cock. The cock should have been slightly greased before being put in, to prevent it adhering to the lead; whereas the other two shouTd be scraped and bnghtened, for the opposite purpose. Take out the whole from the mould. With a hooked wire the paper rolls, or cores, may be withdrawn, and by a little force we may draw out the cock, which, hav- ing been oiled and turned about, will soon be foimd to work steam tight and easily. To complete our cock, set it upright and fill it with lead 60 EVEEY BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTUEER. (having previously of course stopped up its four holes.) File carefully as directed at Fig. 2, aud it is finished. For the piston rods, put a loop, Fig. 6, at the ends of two wires. Half fill the cylinders with sand, hold the wires in the centre, perpendicularly. Pour into each a small quanti- ty of lead ; having first greased the insides of the cylinders. We have a pair of pistons (whose rods are kept tight by the loops at the ends) and a pair of steam-tight cylinders to match. Set in lead in which the cock or valve works. Through the covers of the pen boxes, pierce holes for the piston rods. File the outside of the lead smooth. Solder a hole in a few inches of gas- pipe, one eighth inch internal bore, and all is finished. The two single-acting cylinders work the same as one double-acting one, and are more easily made. I need not describe the motion of the cock, which may be worked by an eccentric, in the axle of the fly-wheel, or by a lever, from the piston rods, joined to rod 1, Fig, 4. It moves (as has been before said) through one-quarter of a circle. From this necessarily long description the work may appear difficult, but really there is no difficulty, when once it is taken m hand. I trust that this paper, by removing a difficulty, may help to Increase the manufacture of model engines. t HOW TO ma.e:e a steam gauge. Probably but few of our readers will think it worth their while to A make a steam-gauge to so small an article as a model engine. / \ ^. The present paper will, we trust, prove that, at a very trifling cost, one may be constructed that will correctly indicate the pres- sure on the boiler. The materials required will be a few pieces of glass tubing, a pair of pincers, and a spirit lamp. In the annxed illustration we see the right shape when com- pleted. A is the part required to be graduated, as in the engraving ; B the top of the second tube, fitted into the bottom of A, and C the tubing within the boiler. The advantage of the second tube will be explained as we proceed. Having everything in readiness, we will light the spirit lamp, and take a piece of tubing, two inches long, revolving it slowly over the flame, and with the pincers draw out one end so fine that it will only admit the point of a pin. This may be laid aside to cool. The second piece should be treated in the same manner, with the exception that both ends should be drawn out, and the lower k f EYEEY BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTTJREE. 61 aperture rather larger than the other. When both are quite cool, fit the smaller end of the second piece into the large opening in the first, and raising both pieces to a white heat, press them firmly together with the pincers. The length of the upper piece must be two inches, or the above gra- dient will not be suitable. When the steam is as high as the boiler can bear, the water will rise in the tube to 10°, but when there is no pres- sure it will sink to 0°. The whole cost of making this useful little appendage will not exceed twenty-five cents. The boiler should be tolerably full of water at first, but after the steam is up it may be allowed to sink. HOW TO MAKE A CHEAP EO WING-BO AT. Rowing is one of the most healthy and enjoyable recreations we pos- sess. There are but few youths who do not delight in this pastime, but unfortunately, owing to the high price of even a small sized boat, there are not many so fortunate as to have one of their own. To those of my readers who do not possess a rowiug boat, I shall endeavor to describe how they may build one for themselves at a comparatively small outlay. The boat here described can easily be made for $5.00 or $10.00; it cannot well cost more, and might (with economy) be built for some- what less; the principal outlay will, of course, be for wood, the cost of the few screws, nails, tow, &c., required, being very trifling. Before commencing our boat, we must determine the size of the same, and here some little consideration will be required. A very useful size for an ordinary rowing-boat is 16 feet long by about 3 feet broad ; but if you require a fast boat, it must be somewhat longer, and also narrow- er in the beam. It must, however, be remembered that what we gain in speed we lose in other qualities : a long boat is more difficult to man- age and to turn than a shorter one ; it is also more liable to get dam- aged and to capsize ; therefore a shorter boat is to be preferred. The boat I am about to describe is intended to seat one or two per- sons, but it will easily accommodate three; it could also, by slightly widening the beam, be made to carry a small sail ; but unless you are a good sailor I should not recommend you to make this addition. A general view of our boat is given in Fig. 1 ; it will be flat-bottomed, but I can answer for the good qualities of a boat of this description. We will now consider the kind of wood to be used ; oak is by far the best, being both durable and strong ; pine could be used, and would be somewhat cheaper and easier to work, but if you wish for a really ser- viceable and strong boat, able to withstand rough usage, by all means use oak. You will require two pieces of nicely planed board about 16 62 EVERT BOY HIS OWX MA^^UFACTUREE. feet long bv 16 inches broad ; these are for the sides ; for the bottom you will want three pieces of board 16 feet long by about 12 inches broad. riG 1. Fia. 2. I^a. 3. Fig. 4. '^^- ^■ Your wood being ready, take the two boards intended for the sides and place between them two blocks of wood, each about 2f feet ^^ide, EVEEY BOY HIS OWN MANUPACTURER. 63 as shown at E E, Fig. 3. Then take some stroug rope or cord and wrap it tightly around both ends, as shown at H H, Fig. 3. Now procure and insert into the cord at J a stroug stick, having inserted which, you must twist it round gradually until the two ends of the board are brought nearly together at L. You must now make a cut-water, which should be of oak, 18 inches long, by not quite 1 inch wide ; insert this at L be- tween the two boards; now give the stick J another twist, and the cut- water will, for the time being, be held tight between them ; then with a gimlet bore five or six holes through both boards and the cut-water, and secure all three firmly together with some good stout screws. The stern end of your boat now requires attention ; a full view of it is given in Fig. 4. It must be of oak, and shaped as shown: it should be at the top 36 inches wide, and about J 8 inches deep. You had better, perhaps, make this somewhat larger than is actually required, for after it is fixed to the end of your boat it can be easily planed down, while, should you by any chance make it too small, it cannot be enlarged. This must be fixed to the end of your boat at N, Fig. 3; and be firmly screwed on with long thin screws, the holes for which should be first carefully bored. It is scarcely necessary to remark that, however se- curely you make the joinings of your boat, the water will leak in : this is prevented by the joints being what is termed caulked, full particulars of which will be given as we proceed. Having screwed your stern on as tightly as you are able, you will pro- ceed to make the bottom of your boat. For this you must take the three pieces of board you have, and get a carpenter to make the side to lap over, so as to fit one in another, as shown at B, Fig. 2 ; having done this, you must place the boards together and secure them firmly in this position, by means of four pieces of wood, as shown at A A A A, Fig. 2. You must now secure this to the bottom of your boat, using long thin screws, always being careful first to bore the holes for the same, lest you should split the wood, and thus, perhaps, seriously damage your boat after having proceeded so far well. You have now, if I may so term it, the hull of your boat roughly fin- ished , but without either being caulked, or without a keel, rudder, row locks, &c. Perhaps before proceeding any further, it would be as well to caulk your boat : for this, you must obtain some tow and also some tar or pitch, in which you must well soak your tow, and then with the blade of an old knife ram it well into all the joints and crevices : it is all-important that you do this well, for if at all hurried vour boat may be liable to leak. Proceed now to make the keel : this must be of oak, about an incn deep and about the same width ; it must be securely screwed along the bottom of your boat, having done which you may pitch the bottom well all over as an additional security of its being water-tight. 64 EVERY BOY HIS OWIS" MAl^UEACTUEER. The rudder, which is represented in Fig. 5, now remains to be made ; this must be shaped as shown, and a piece of wood must also be screw- ed at right angles to the top of it (see Fig. 5). This is in order that the rudder may be worked by the two small ropes, as will be seen by Fig. 1. Two small hooks, D D, must now be fixed in your rudder, in order to * hang it on to the stern ; these can be made out of some strong iron wire, one end being firmly inserted into the rudder, and the other bent as shown. As yet you have nothing on which you can hang your rudder ; you will have therefore to cut a strip of wood (A A, Fig. 4 ), and screw it on to the end of the stern, taking care to fix it exactly in the middle j into this you must insert two pieces of iron wire and bend them round so as to allow the rudder to be hooked on (see Fig. 4). The row-locks and seats next require to be made ; for the former eight pieces of oak neatly rounded, and about an inch in diameter, will do cap- itally; they must be fixed into either side of your boat, as shown in Fig. 1. The seats can be best made of pine, taking care to secure these firmly, or else some day, perchance, whilst rowing, they might give way, which, to say the least, would be very unpleasant. You have now only to secure two strings to the top part of your rudder, in order that the same may be worked by anybody sitting in the stern of your boat. In order to be quite sure your boat is water-tight, you had better, if possible, anchor her in some water, and then place some heavy stones in her ; should no water leak in during twelve hours, you may be certain your boat is perfect, and only requires to be painted. The best colors to use will be — for the outside, white, relieved by a thin stripe of blue ; and for the inside a light blue. Tour seats might be made more comfortable by tying or nailing a small cushion upon them — and your boat is finished. ETEKY BOr HIS O'n'X ilAXUFACTUBEK. 65 TO MAKE PADDLE-WHEELS FOE A SMALL BOAT. In my opinion, the pleasures of boating are greatly augmented by the feeling that one is '^ paddling his own canoe," to quote the words of that odious ballad. Any of my juvenile readers, who, like myself, are so for- tunate as to possess a small row-boat, or punt, will greatly add to their amusement and vary their exercise, by following the dkections which I am about to give them. The following is a description of the manner in which I made a pair of paddle-wheels for my own boat. To make these articles it is not necessary to get any groat number of tools. The only ones I made use of were a saw, hammer, and mortise- chisel. I first got a thick branch of elm, about G in. in diameter. Having cut down this, I cut from it two pieces free from knots, about 5 in. long, and trimmed them down into two respectable-looking cylinders, 5 in. in diameter, and 5 in. long. 66 EVERY BOY HIS OYTX ilA^TCai^ACTUPvER. These were for the centres of the wheels. In epvCh of these I mortised sis holes, 3 in. x ^ in. and 1 in. deep (Fig. ] ). I next measured the height from the water-line up to the gunwale of my boat, 1 foot. (This was to find the length of the spokes.) Four inches is sufficient for the paddle -boards to dip in the water. I then cut twelve pieces of i in. plank, like Fig. 2, A b J2 in., A d 4 in.^ F c 8 in., B E 3 in., and inserted the ends, e b, of each of these, into a mortise-hole in the centre-blocks, first made, and nailed them in well. The wheels were now made, but were weak ; so, to strengthen them, I nailed in pieces of i in. plank between the spokes, as A b, Fig. 3. The next thing to be thought of was an axle, so I bought for a few cents a piece of rod-iron, i in. thick, straight and smooth. I got a coun- try smith to bend it, as in Fig. 4, taking great care to have A B and e f in a perfectly straight line, b c and e h, each 4 in., c d and G h each 3 in., D G being, of course, 8 in. The smith now welded on two rings, k and L, round the iron, at equal distances from b and e, and taking care to leave K l exactly the breadth of the boat, in the place where I intend the axle to lie. Three inches beyond e: and l he pierced two holes, and 5 in. beyond these, two other holes, just large enough to allow the admission of very large nails. He then cut off the ends of the iron one inch beyond the last-mentiou- od holes. He next squared the ends of the axle, from k and l out, to prevent the wheels from slipping round. I now cut a hole for the axle through the exact centre of each wheel, pirt a wheel on each end of the axle, wedged large nails into the holes, to prevent the wheels slipping off or in; and the work was complete to my entire satisfaction, so far as making the wheels fit for the boat went. Now to make the boat fit for the wheels. I cut two pieces of hard wood like Fig. 5, about 3 in. high, and G in. long, with a gap, c d, cut down in the centre, just large enough to let the : axle turn freely in it. An iron spike, A b, can be inserted, or removed when required, to keep the axle from coming up. These pieces I nailed firmly on the gunwales of the boat, to act as bearings for the axle— they are to the wheels what row-locks and thole-pins are to oars. I now fitted the cranks, or handles, with straps fastened to treadle- boards, like those of a lathe, at the bottom of the boat j which is pro- pelled in the most comfortable manner possible by sitting on the thwart, aft the axle, putting the feet on the treadle-boards, and working away. The boat is then most conveniently steered by yoke lines, instead of a tiller. When a stiff breeze is blowing, a little spray is blown off the wheels into the boat, but this slight inconvenience is easily remedied by making light guards. of canvas, stretched upon a wooden framework, and put in ETinY BOY nis c^rx M:AxuFACTrr.Erw 67 a temporary manner, so as to be easily removed and replaced, between the wheels and the person in the boat. Hoping that these instructions will be understood, I refer my readers to the next chapter for a description of a simple and cheap screw pro- peller for the same boat. TO MAXE A SOEEW PEOPELLEE FOE A SMALL BOAT. Having, in the last chapter, given a description of a pair of paddle- wheels, I now propose to vary the exercise, and give a description of a screw-propeller, which will be just as easy to make as the paddle- wheels ; and which I can confidently, a'nd from experience, recommend to my friends. 1st. We have to consider the screw itself. 2d. Its framework. 3d. Its motion. To make the screw itself— get a cylindrical piece of wood, 12 in. long and 3 in. in diameter (Fig. 1). With a mortise-chisel cut a hole (A b) 2 in. long, I- in. wide, and 1 in. deep, Inclined at an angle of about 45 de- grees with the axis or length of the cylinder. The wood-cut. which is drawn to scale, gives the measurements. Now turn the cylinder right over, and in the opposite side, just over the first hole, cut another of exactly the same dimensions, as shown by the dotted lines. Then^ if you possess a lathe, put your cylinder iiito it, and cut a neat groove, c, Fig. 1, about i in. deep, and angular at the bottom ; and turn ofi" both ends of the cylinder to nearly a point. If, like myself, you are not the happy possessor of a lathe, you must man- age to do it as neatly as possible otherwise. Next, out of a half-inch plank, cut two pieces the shape of Fig. 3, the end A 2 in. wide, abG in., the widest part, c d (2 in. from the top), 3 in. Feather ofi' the edges at the round top, and at the sides within 1^ in. from the bottom. Now put these two pieces down into the holes in Fig. 1, and nail them well, as in Fig. 2. Drive a neat round spike into each end of the cylinder, or rather what was a cylinder before the ends were pointed ofi". The screw is now complete. Wo then come to the frame. Measure the height of the stern of your boat — say 2 ft. Get some timber li in. square, and cut one piece 30 in. long, c d Fig. 2, that is, (J in. higher than the stern of th*e boat. Two pieces 15 in. long, f g and E c, and one piece 18 in. long, e f. Cut two pieces of hooi) iron, 3 in. long, and drill a hole in each just large enough for the spike at 68 EVEPvY BOY niS 0"^'X MAyUPACTUIiEIt. each end of the screw to fit nicely into. Fasten these, one to the IS in. timber and the other to the 30 in. one, so that the holes come exactly 9 in. from one end of each, h and i. Now mortise or dovetail all these irlcccs well together; but before permanently fastening them, put in the screw, with the spikes at the ends, inserted into the holes in the irons n and i, taking care to have the groove, a, next to the longest piece, c d. Now nail well. Get two hooks, exactly like those on a rudder, k and l : fasten them to the long side of the frame, so that PiG.!. when the whole machine is hanging on to the stern of the boat, hke a rudder, the end e c may lie as a continuation of the keel. Now we come to the third part of our work, the" motion. Turn or cut a wheel, ]^, with a half-inch groove all round it, about three times the diameter of the groove A. This may be made out of one solid piece 1} in. thick. Cut a square hole in the centre of this wheel. Get a smith to make you an axle, x o, having a square part near one end, to fit exactly the square hole in the centre of the wheel EYERT EOT HIS OTVX AIAXLTACTUTvEPc. " G9 ii, and a handle, p, at the other end, any dimensions you please, x o may be about 12 in. long. Cut another piece of wood, o, li in. square, and dovetail it int^ r G perpendicularly ; let it bo just as long as d G is above f g. Now in this last piece, and also in c d, drill a hole with an auger, 3 in. from the top of each, just large enough for the axle to fit in ; put in the axle and fasten on the wheel 21, between o and d c, so that it may be exactly over the groove a. Xow I fancy you think that, as the machine hangs at the stern of the boat by the rudder-irons, it is to act as a rudder as well as a screw, but I found by experience that this would never do. To prevent the apparatus from turning about, cut a piece of timber, E, about 10 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. Fasten this^ as in Fig. 2, to the upright, c d, so that half of it may project out on one side, and half on the other; and so that when the machine is hooked on, e may lie tight against the ctern of the boat. It will be easily seen that this will keep it from moving as a rudder does. Two eyes may now be put on, e f, imd the origmal rudder, x, of the boat hooked on there. Of course then a yokc-tillcr with cords must be used. Xow get a good strong piece of jack-line to go round the wheel it and the groove a, as an endless band. This would shrink and get too tight in the water, so it must be boiled in oil, and get a coat of tar occasionaUy. This is to be cut to the proper length, and is to have a hook at one end, and an eye at the other. If you want to tighten the band, unhook it and twist it till the requisite tightness is obtained, and hook it on again. The whole machine is now complete. Having got into the boat, you can, slowly at first, but with gradually accelerated speed, turn the handle, p. If the screw does not go round freely, tighten or loosen the endless band, as occasion requires. One hand can with the greatest ease and freedom turn the handle ; a fine smooth rapid progressive motion will soon be obtained, destitute of any noise or splashing, like that caused by paddle-wheels, and without the jerking motion of oars. I feci confident that this screw will give great satisfac- tion, as well as amusement, to anj readers who may try the experiment j and if they will employ a few of their leisure hours in their workshops in the winter, in the manufacture of this screw, and the formerly described paddles, I can promise them plenty of- aquatic enjoyment during tho summer. 70 EYEEY liOY ins OTTN" ItAXUFACTUREPw HOW TO MAKE A HYDEAULIO PEOPEL- LEE FOE A SMAEL BOAT. Any owner of a boat wlio has access to a plumber and smith ttIII^ with their assistance, and the aid of the contents of their shop, be able with perseverance to surmount all difficulties in the manufacture of the small machine I am about to describe. My first object is to give you a general notion of the whole machine, for which purpose I refer you to the illustration, Fig. 1, which gives a section of the boat and an elevation of the machine ; and to Fig. 2, which gives a plan. Ton see a leaden pipe (gas-pipe), o, running along the bottom of the boat, from stem to stern, and communicating with the external water by holes in the cutwater and stern, into which the ends of the pipe fit water- tight. Connected with this pipe are two cylinders (or pump -barrels if you like), A and e, in which pistons work freely but water-tight, con- nected by jointed rods with a lever, c, which works on a fulcrum midway between the two barrels d, and has a handle to be worked by the hand of the person in the stern. By means of valves and connecting tubes, hereafter to bo described, a continual stream of water is sucked in at the bows and ejected at the stern of the boat, with a force proportional to the power of the person at work. This stream of water propels the boat with a smooth and easy motion, not to bo obtained by either screw or paddles, and with a speed proportional to the diameter and capacity of the cylinders and tubes. Having thus given a rough idea of what we propose to do, my second object is to give the larger details. For these I refer you to Fig. 2. There is a rectangular board, e, 32 in. long by 12 in. wide, which is to bo firmly fastened to the bottom of the boat by means of bolts and nuts, or by any other means the ingenuity of the manufacturer may suggest. To this board, which izto be the bsd-plate of the machine, and must be very thick and firmly xlxed, arc fastened vertically the two cylinders, A and E, in a lino with the keel of the boat; a pipe, F, enters a from tho direction of tho bows, and is fixed into it at tho bottom ; a similar pipe Cx, enters n from tho direction of the stern, and is soldered in the same way into a hole near the bottom of e. Another pipe, E', connects A with G, and a fourth, g', connects e with e. These pipes will be more par- ticularly described hereafter. Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 are valves in tho pipes f, f", g, g', respectively, all opening in the direction of the stern. The pipes f and G extend only an inch or two beyond the board e, and are connected by short strong ETEEY EOY HIS OYrX MAXUFACTUEErv. 71 bits of India-nibbcr tubing with the long pipe o, vrhich is in two parts, one extending from the bows to f, and the other fromi G to the stern. Now we will consider the action. Suppose we raise the handle c ; this lifts the piston in e and depresses that in a. When the piston e is lifted, the valve 3 opens, 4 shuts ; as much water is. sucked in from the bows as will fill the barrel e. Xow depress the handle, and the very same op- eration goes on in a, whose piston, when raised, sucks in water through <- — IL-- - > ^;^s^^m ^-.--5==-_- _^ Crf <"li valve 1 ; at the same moment the piston b is depressed and ejects all the water (which it had previously sucked up) through the valve 4, which opens while 3 shuts, out at the stern, thereby causing the boat to move forward. Raise the handle again, and A discharges its water, causing the -inotion to continue, while e performs its first operation again. rZ EYEEY LOT niS OTTX ilJOv'UrACTUr.Erw. So on an indefinite number of times^ avIiHg the boat soon gets a, rapid and easy motion ; and the labor is no greater than that of Tvorking a very easy pmnp, that is, if the machinery is made vrell, and the working parts are smooth and oiled, and fit well. The third head of my subject is the minutioB of manufacture, or the smaller details. As the cylinders are both alike, one illustration, Fig. 3, will serve for both. They may be made of brass or iron, according to the taste, or pocket, or mechanical resources of the manufacturer. They are to be open at the top, closed at the bottom, with flanges, F, all round the bottoms, having holes in them to enable them to be firmly bolted or screwed to the bed-plate e (Fig. 2). Holes A and a' are to be pierced as close to the bottom as possible, opposite each other, and of such a size as to allow the pipes e, e', and G, G', to bo fitted tightly into them. The insides of the cylinders afe to bo perfectly true, and smooth like a pump-barrel. They may be 14 in. high and 4 in. diameter ; it is best to get them cast at a foundry and turned true — this costs only a few cents a pound. The pistons are to bo turned out of any hard wood, and to be sur- rounded by leather neatly tacked on; the edges are not to overlap, but to be brought to meet, and fastened with very small-headed tacks, or to be sewn with strong twine. These must work quite smoothly and water- tight in the barrels. A hole goes through the centre of the piston, through which a piston- rod, A (Fig. 4), goes. The lower end of the rod is to be screwed, and a nut is to be screwed on tight below the piston, and a collar or projection solid with the rod, to keep the piston from slipping up. The upper end of A is flattened out, and a hole made to admit of a steel pin, b, which fastens it to the connectmg-rod c. This rod c is, like the piston-rod, made of iron, and has the upper end flattened out and pierced, to admit of a pin, E, which links it to the lever c (Fig. 2). The lower end is forked so as to admit the flattened top of the piston-rod between its jaws exactly. Both jaws are i^ierced for the pin e, which goes through them and the piston-rod, thus forming a liuk or hinge, which must be nicely made, so as to make no noise. Both cylinders have the same kind of piston-rod and connecting-rod. Xow for the lever (Fig. 5). This is best made of iron, but the handle end may be of wood, and neatly turned. One end. A, is forked hke the bottom of the connecting-rod, and is pierced for a pin which links it to the top of the connecting-rod of cylinder A. Eight inches from pin a is another hole for the pin e, which is to form the fulcrum, to go into. Eight mcheS from the fulcrum is an oblong hole, G, a couple of inches long, and just wide enough for the flattened top of the connecting-rod of cyhnder e to fit nicely into. It is connected to this by a pin, G, in the same manner as the other joints. The handle c may be of any EVERY EOY EIS OWX ilAXUFACTrr.EE. 73 length, from one and a half to two feet, accordmg to the caprice of the owner. The next thing is a standard to support the fulcrum of the lever, j (Sec n, Fjgs. 1 and 2, and Fig. G.) This may be made of a piece of wood 2 in. square, and 2 ft. high; it is to be well mortised into the bed- plate E, Fig. 2. (It may also be supported and strengthened by other pieces of wood nailed against it.) This is also to be forked at the top, and pierced for the steel pin b, which is to serve as a fulcrum for the lever. Put the lever in its i)lace between the jaws at the top of the upright, insert a strong steel fulcrum, which must lit well to prevent noise or shaking of the parts. This upright is to be mortised exactly half way between the two barrels. Put the i^istons into the barrels, and connect them properly v;ith the lever. The i^rincipal dimensions are given in the illustration in inches. Now, supposing all that I have described to be well made, and every- thing tight and in its placCj we come to the consideration of the pipes. (See Fig. 2.) ^ Get a few feet of lead tubing, 1 in. diameter (internal). Cut it into four parts — one, f, long enough to go from A to a couple of inches beyond E. Another, G, to go from b to a couple of inches beyond e, toward the stern. A third, F', to go from the other hole near the bottom of cyl- inder A to join the pipe G. A fourth, g, to connect f with the other hole near the bottom of n. These may be soldered into the holes in the cylinder, and into each other, with water-tight joints. But before soldering them, wo have to make the valves, and put them into them. These must be made carefully of hard wood, well seasoned, turned so as to fit the pipes exactly, and very tight inside. (See Fig. 7.) a is a plan, and b a sec- tion of the valves. You see they are rings of wood, 1 in. external, and 5-8 in. internal di- ameter, and for the sake of strength, ^ in. high. The rings are then 3-l() in. thick, so that they are very tender, unless made well out of good wood. A i)iece of tough but flexible leather, c, is to bo cut 15-16 in. dia- meter, and a bit, D, left to admit of the tacks which are to fasten it down in this one place ; a circular bit of leather, ^- in. diameter, is to be .stitched firmly to the centre of the other to strengthen it, without inter- fering with the flexibility of the hinge, and to prevent its being, on ac- count of its weakness, forced into the wooden ring by tlio pressure ol" the water. Make four of these, and put one into each pipe, about 1 in. from the holes in the cylinders, taking care that all valves open in the direction of the stern; that is — that the leather is turned in that direction. If a little white-lead and oil bo smeared round the outside of tho valves before insertion, they will bo very much tightened, and kept more firm. /4 EYEEY EOT HIS OWX AIAXUFACTUEEE. Solder your tubes in their places, taking care to have the valves 4 and 1 between the joinings of the tubes r and g', f' and g, and their respec- tive barrels. Fasten the tubes to e by wiree, or any other means, such as staples. Now get your boat out of the water, and with a large auger pierce a hole in the cutwater a few inches below water, just large enough for the tube o to lit into, (x. Fig. 1.) You will have to make two holes in the stern, one at each side of the stern-post t: the farther below the water- line the better, and exactly IwrizontaJ. If there was only one hole it would go through the stern-post, and interfere with the rudder. Kow get the leaden tube o, 1 in. internal diameter ; insert one end into X very tight, with caulkmg, or it may get loose some fine day, and the boat and its owner be swamped. Carry the pipe along thebottom-of the boat (if you can get it under the ceiling, or make a wooden covering for it, as a protection, so much the better), cut it oft when it comes within an inch of f, Fig. 2, carry it on again from G, Fig. 2, to the hole y, at one side of the stern-post ; fasten it well there. Now get a short bit of the same tube and fasten it into the other hole Y, and join the other end of it to o about a foot from the stem; let thef pipes communicate through a hole in o ; solder the joint well. Get two bits of strong India-rubber tubing, 1 in. diameter,'with these connect the tubes F and o, and G, and the short part of o. The India-rubber tubes ought to be tied tighXlx outside VaQ tubes they connect. A bit of wire grating, with about 25 holes to the inch, ought to be nailed outside the hole x. {The boat is supposed to be 15 ft.) Now launch the boat, and work away as hard as you hke, and that your efforts may bo crowned with every success is my sincere desire and confident expectation. HOW I BUILT A CHEAP OAXOE. In the following article I shall attempt to show how I have built a canoe, for the benefit of boys who are fond of canoeing, and who wish to enjoy it at a moderate cost. I have built, in all, four canoes, each in a cliff'erent way and of a difier- cnt shape, and have at length decided which is without doubt the best. The first three were built of a framework of laths, which were covered with canvas, and this canvas was well pitched, to make the boat water- tight. It is not necessary to describe here how these boats were made. Suf- fice it to say they were ftiilures. One great defect was their weight, arismg from the pitched canvas. However light I made the framework, EVERY EOT HIS OTy'X MAXUEACTURER. 75 I had, in order to make the canoo thoroughly water-tight, to tar and pitch it thickly over, and as tar is very heavy, this made a serious differ- ence. Besides this, in order to make the boat strong, it was necessary to have the laths an^ ribs tolerably thick, so that the canvas canoes were rather clumsy affairs. I will therefore only describe the last I made, which has taken one-thh^d the labor, and one-half the money of each of the first three. The chief advantage in a boat of this kind, intended for speed, is lightness. I think this is more important than even a good shape, for it is impossible to build a properly -shaped wooden canoe for such a sum as this will cost. Of course, strength must not be lost sight of, or your canoe will fall to pieces on the first rock you happen to run foul of. Before commencing your boat, it will be necessary to decide whether you intend to sail, or only to paddle. If the former, you should make it rather broader than if you use a paddle only. If you intend to sail much, you must also have a keel, which is not absolutely necessary for paddling. Breadth will not make very much difference in the speed, but length is an advantage, as it causes the canoe to draw less water, and gives it a better shape. The dimensions here given will be found about right. The wood required consists of four planks J in. in thickness ; two, 15 ft. long and 7 in. broad, for the sides, and two others, 14 ft. long and 11 in. wide, for the bottom. Ton will also require a few feet of planking 1 in. thick, and a gross of screws, 11 in. long, and as thin as possible. These are all the materials you require ; nor do you want many tools. A saw, plane, and chisel, with a pricker and screw-driver, are all that arc necessary. Figure I. will give you an idea of what it will be like. The canoe in this drawing is supposed to bo tipped up on one side, and is represented very broad in order to show the inside better. A A are two rectangular pieces of wood to which are fastened the sides bbj c is the bottom, also fastened to a a, which we will call uprights, b and e are the bows and otern-posts. The canoeist sits between the uprights, and the re- maining space between the uprights and the ends may bo covered over with canvas. The first thing to do is to join the two broad planks together to form the bottom. To do- this, the edges of tlic wood should be grooved (Fig. 11. ), but if you find the planks are too thin for this, you must cut the edges, as shown in Fig. III. Then placo the planks side by side, tho edge of one overlapping the edge of tho other, and nail or screw on at regular inter- vals slips of wood to keep tho boards, together. If you have no means of planing tho edges as described, you must fiis- teu them together by tlie cross-pieces only, first planing the edges quite true. These cross-pieces are slips of wood about G in. long and IV in. ETEKY EOY HIS OTTX MAXUrACTXJPwErv. t.iOad^ and are fastened on about 1 ft. apart. Care must bo taken to place them all inside the boat. The bottom is then finished, all but the shaping; vrhich is done nearly last. It will be about 22 in. wide and 14 ft. long. You must next make the uprights. These form a very important part of the canoe, so they must bo strong. Make them 1 in. thick, the shape u Ir ^ n V m ^ ji m o / Era B3a2 CCE;3 II dl CD '. o :£Q 323 Epta irn ETD of an oblong, 19^ in. by 7 in. They are to be fixed upright on the bot- tom^ at equal distances from its centre. The distance between them is of course determined by the length of your legs. For a boy 5. ft. 6 in. high, they should be about S ft. 9 in. apart. It is not necessary to fix them very firmly to the bottom, as the sides hold them quite firm when they are put on. Place them upright in their proper places, and drive EVERY BOY HIS OV,'X MAXUrACTURErv. m\ II into thera a few screws through the bottom, and they will be quite firm enough /^ r the present. Figure IV. shows the bottom of the canoe, as far as it is now com- pleted ; A A show the position of the uprights. As they are only 19-^ in. wide they will not reach across the bottom, and care must be taken to have an equal distance at each side, b b are the cross-pieces fasten- ing the two bottom boards together. You now have to fix on the sides. Screw them to the edges of the uprights in their respective places, taking care to let their lower edges lie quite flat on the bottom. To fasten the sides in their places at the bows and stern, cut two pieces of thin hard wood, 7 in. long and about 3 in. ])road, to form the cut-water and stern-post. Having cut the sides to the right length (you will find them about 3 or 4 in. too long at each end), bring them together at the bows and place the cut-water be- tween them. Screw them tightly together in this position, and do the same at the stern. The sides should be cut at each end so as to fit neatly on the stern-joost and cut-water. The cut-water may be cut to the shape shovrn in Fig. I. The dotted line in Fig. IV. shows the position the sides willfioccupy. The next tiling to do is to fix the sides firmly to the bottom. Do this by driving in screws ^ in. from the bottom edge of the side planks slantingly into the bottom. Put these screws about 1 ft. apart, and bo careful not to split the wood. You have now only to cut away the superfluous parts of tho bottom (c c, Fig. IV.) and the canoo is complete. But it is not yet fit for use, as it still requires caulking to make it thoroughly water-tiglit. The manner of doing this depends partly on tho result of your work. If there is much space betv/ecn the sides and the bottom you must uso ill i;ii /C ETELY DOT HIS OTTi; XA^rurAcirp^K. tow, dipped in tar and pitch boiled together in eqnal quantities. Eaoi this into the interstices from the inside with a blunt chisel, and th: boat will be watertight. But if the sides fit well down on the bottom, it will merely be necess?.ry to nib putty well over the joints as this will be quite sufficient when it gets hard and is painted over. When you have made it watertight, you can paint it and finish it olTj inside and out, to your satisfaction. It should have two or three coats cf paint. The choice of colors is. of course, a matter of taste, but I should not advise very light colors, es- pecially for the inside, as it soon gets dirty, and then does not look well. It greatly improves the appearance to cover the ends over with canvas, leaving the middle bctvrcen the uprights to sit in. This canvas should be painted white. A small seat or cushion may be made, but not raised more than 1 in. or li in. from the bottom. Tour canoe is now quite complete, but you have still to make a pad- dle. ' If you prefer rowing; you can make your boat for that puipose. It must be much stronger, and, unless you have outriggers, mus: be much broader also. The paddle should be made of one piece of spruce fir. but if you can- not make it thus, you must cut two blades of thin oak (Fig. V.) and join them to the ends of a jwle as light and as strong as possible. The pad- dle should be firom 7 ft to 8 ft. long, iuid should have an India-rubber band, like those used on umbrellas, round the pole at each end where it joins the blades. This prevents the vratcr from running off the blades into the boat. All is now ready for the launch, and it may not be out of place to say here that you can't be too careful at first I can answer for there being not the slightest chance of an upset if you exercise a little care, but if you are not used to sma]l boats you will i^ost likely feel rather uncom- fortable at first. For the first tim : : r vtting in and out yon had better get a friend to hold the boat, but you. vri:i s : "n c^ain confidence and be able to manage this alone. You will find :. s::::/.! s :iua.re sail to be a great improvement to your canoe rrhen going beiore the vrind. I have now done my best to show you how to make your canoe, and as I have made several myseh, I can answer for the plan being a snc- cessf::! one. It is s? very simple that almost any boy could make one. Tlie m:-: l"l± /_: - :: :s to get the sides screwed firmly on the bottom without splitting tliem. To do this it is only necessary to use a lai^ge pricker and to exercise a iittie care. I have written this : r 'j :7s who are fond 01 boating, but who have not the means of gettm^ r. more expensive boat. It cannot cost mere than $3 r.t the most, and i: qc^ easily be maae for $2. Of course, a much better one can be made en the same pian at a greater expense. I? f - ir i"«LV 3 •* r t -y ^ - ~ir - 79 HO^ TO ilAXE AI'Il' TTOEK A2 III- -: ■- :-r 1 _ r\ elec- siboo: li . 6 o. vide^ amd iimlj together, - bbooghDUe oo riCM ^ . 8* ---er L a; to keep and eck tht giwfcs slicjuf' ^tsuVbf. 4isL, :^.!h 80 TVER BOY HIS OWN MAXUFACTUEEPw more coils of tlio same size, and tie each firmly Tvith Yraxcd string as before. Slip the whole off the piece of wood and make a second coll perfectly similar in all respects, taking especial care to wind the wire in the same direction. The two coils should bo separated from each other by about 3 in. or 4 in. of loose wire. You must now well varnish them with ordinary white hard varnish so that they may not be affected by damp. If you wish to be very smart; you can use red sealing-wax dis- solved in methylated spirit. We must next make what is called an astatic magnetic needle, that is to say, a compound needle so constructed as to be uninfluenced, or nearly so, by the earth's magnetism. First magnetize two stout sewing-needles about 2-J in. long, so that their points shall bo north poles, then take a piece of brass wire 3 in. or 4 in. long, and about as thick as an ordinary pin, or a little thicker, and tie the two needles on it, at right angles, with well-waxed silk, as shown at A D, Fig. 2, with the contrary poles facing each other. You will next require a piece of brass hal an inch wide, and one-sixteenth thick. This may bo procured at any metal shop for a few cents. Cut off a piece about 3 inches in length, and bend it into the shape shown at A B C, in Figs. 2 and 3. At A, a hole should be drilled to receive one end of the brass axis of the com- pound needle. This hole ought to be a little smaller than the brass wire of the axis, which Jp should be carefully tapered off with a fine file at each end, so that it may not slip through the hole- At the other end, at C, Figs. 2 and 3, another hole should be made, through which to screw it to the face of the upright board. It must, however, remain unfixed until the very last thing, as its position will depend on that of the back support of the axis of the compound nee- dle. A reference to Fig. 4 will show how the double coil is fixed in its place by means of a piece of bent brass. In the middle, at D, Figs. 2 and 4, a hole is drilled similar to that in the front support, so that it not only serves to keep the coils in their places, but also as a pivot on which the compound nee- dle can swing. Having fixed the coils firmly in their places, about an eighth of an inch apart, so as to give the needle all the benefit of the .current, and tapered the ends of the brass axis, you must next screw on the front support, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. This will require very careful manipulation, for it is of the greatest possible consequence that EVrEY BOY niS O'^X MAXLTACTUKE] ^:^2g F E i ^ ^ X-^: A «^i :±i 1 l' B ^ 1 ,FIC the two holes iu which the axis swings should be perfectly level and ex- actly opposite each other. If, instead of making -the screw hole at C round, you make it oblong, you will have the means of adjusting the front support to a nicety. The holes in the brass may be easily made with a file, the tip of which is ground on a whetstone to a three-cornered point ; but of course, if you are able to do so, it is better to use a drill. You must spare no pains over the adjustment of the needle on its axis, otherwise you will be continually troubled by its sticking fast just when you are in the middle of a message. You will most likely find that the compound needle will not hang quite perpendicularly; if so, it: will be necessary to attach a tiny piece of wax to the f"'^-^ 1^ ■ ^^ ' — -i lower end of the back needle. It sometimes happens, also, that if the needles are too short, there will be some diffi- culty in bringing them to rest after they have been moved j to remedy thi3, the front needle may be made rather longer than the back one. On each side of the front needle there should be fixed two little stops of ivory or wood, as shown at E, Figs. 2 and 3, to prevent the needles turning quite round, when the current is. passed through the coil. Having completed the signaling portion of our tele- graph, the next thing to do is to describe the method of making the commutator contrivance for changing the direction of the coil. There are a largo number of commutators in use, some of which are extremely simple, while others arc just as complicated. The one I am going to describe belongs to the former»category ; indeed, so simple is it in construction, that I saw one made a few days since with the aid of a couple of hair pins, two pieces of copper wire, a scrap of fire-wood, and half a dozen tacks, which might have been used to work through tho Atlantic Cable. Our commutator will not, however, be quite so homely. The commutator is fixed on the base-board of the apparatus, as shown in Figs. 5 and G. Fig. 5 gives a side view ; Fig. 6 a bird's-eyo view of the way in which it is put together. In Fig. 5, A B is tho base-board. C a piece of brass half an inch wide by a sixteenth of an inch thick, reaching from one side to tho other, and screwed down firmly to tho base-board. D is a block of wood half an inch wide and one inch long, also screwed down to tlio base-board flush with tho edge ; there is a corresponding piece on tho other side (D, in Fig. 6), so that a piece of 82 ZLYllHY EOT Zi3 CiVX XJ^-JrACTUIIEr.. brass, H, simikir in all respects to C, Trill form a kind of bridge wlien screwed down to those little blocks. E is a slip of -wood half an inch vdde and seven-sixteenths thick, which reaches quite across the board, and is firmly screwed down to it. F G is one of two sli^DS of brass, of luj convenient length, say four inches, and of the same breadth and thickness as the others, which we shall henceforth call the right and left-hand keys. Before being nxed in their places they must be well hammered, so as to convert them into springs : they are then screwed down to the wooden slip E. so that when untouched they reuiain in close contact with the brass bridge H. When either of them is pressed down, It will touch the brass slip C. and when the finger is raised it springs back to its former position. Fig. 6 is a bird's-eye view of the apparatus, the same letters being used as in Fig. 5. It also shows how the different parts of the commu- tatOT are connected with the battery and the signahziug apparatus at each end of the line. Thus the brass bridge H' H is connecting with the copper, and the brass fillet C' C with the zinc of the battery. TTe will now supi)ose that you have made two iustruments, with bat- teries, commutators, tmd coils complete, one to work in the front, the -■ ! R L R L C R R L d L e LLRL / RRL 'ff LLL L - h h L / The best way to begin is to commence with the simplest letters first. these are e, t, a, i, m, n, and to send words composed of these backward and forward until you find you can use them with ease. Then you add o, which is three E's, and s, which is three L's. and so on until you have gained the whole. The connections between the wires and the brass bridge and slip, ought by rights to be soldered, but it is not every boy who is possessed of this very useful accomplishment. In default, the best way of joining up is to brighten the brass well about the screw-hole, and then screw down the wire, which must be made into a hook large enough to go round the screw, flattened and brightened, so that the two metals shall be in as close contact as possible. The connections between the commu- tator and the coils, and the line-wires should also bo soldered, as mere twisting is apt to work it loose. You must always recollect that weak electric currents, such as you would use, are decreased in strength by having to pass through a fine wire ; consequently, if the point of contact is reduced to a minimum, alarge amount of working force is wasted. All points of contact should therefore be as flat as possible, or in the case cf two wires, the points of contact should be made very numerous, by twist- ing them together several times. If the connections arc not soldered, they will require looking to now and then. Having got your instruments into working order, and having acquired some little dexterity in telegraphic manipulation, you will, no doubt, feel a great desire to remove your stations further apart ; ono at the end of the garden, for instance, and the otlier in the play-room at tlie topoftbo house. If you increase the length of your line-wires, you will also have to increase the number of cells in your battery. In order that you may 84 EYEEY BOY HIS OWX MAXUPACTUEEPv. 1)0 able to do this intelligently^ it will be as well to say r« few words as to the power of batteries in general. It must be borne in mind that it is the size of the x)lates, and not the number' of cells, that constitutes the working power of a battery. The number of cells simply increases the traYeling power, so to speak, of the electric current. Let us suppose, for instance, that the stations of your telegraph are only a few yards apart. If you were to try to move the needle with a cell containing plates a quarter of an inch square, you would most likely fail. If you increased the number of quarter-inch cells to fifty, connected together alternately, you would still fail in moving the needle. Here the power is too small, although the sending force is large. Increase the size of only one of the cells, say to three inches square, and you obtain a most vigorous move- ment of the needle. Now increase the distance between your stations to say a hundred yards, and the result is a failure once more. The force is there, but it has not the ^'legs " — to use a cricketing phrase — to carry it so far. Add two or three cells, |and the sending power is immediately increased. So that the working force depends on the size of the plates, while the power to send that force to a distance is influenced by the num- ber of cells. You must also remember that the traveling power of the current is equally dependent on the size of the wire through which it has to pass. In the case of long lines, therefore, it is most economical to use thick wire in order to keep down the number of cells as much as possi- ble. In carrying your line-wires from one station to the other, you must take great care that they do not touch any metalhc or damp surface. If you can afford to use gutta-percha covered wire, well and good; if, how. ever, you are obliged to put up with bare copper or iron, you must take care to keep it well insulated by wrapping a thick coating of solid gut- ta-percha round every part that is in -^^ — ^ « » contact with any support. If you look- I I p at the telegraphic wires that run , \Z F8C9:6 ,, along the side of our railways, you will find that they are all most carefully insulated by beingpassed through porcelain or earthenware supports ; otherwise, the electric current would '^ leak" into the earth. The above account of the difference between the working and trav- eling power of an electrical current is perhaps not absolutely correct, but is quite near enough for all practical purposes. To explain the matter fully would necessitate the use of complicated mathematical formulco. EVERY BOY HIS OTVX aiaXUFACTUEEE. S5 not to speak of the danger of angering the most indulgent of editors, by allowing mv power of traveling over paper, to pass beyond its proper limit. Your stations being now at some distance apart, you will not be able to call out to one another when you wish to make a communication; you will therefore have to contrive a calling apparatus for each end of the hue. This portion of the arrangement is very easily made. A horseshoe electro magnet, about four inches long and one-quarter of an inch thick, the helix of which is connected with the line-wkes, is fixed on a piece of board, with its poles standing upright; above it is suspended a little lever of soft iron, working in a pivot. One half of the lever rests about a quarter of an inch from the poles of the magnet, the other end resting about the same distance below a httle bell. When either of the keys is pressed down at either end of the line, the iron horseshoe is made magnetic, and attracts the iron lever, the other end of which strikes the bell. When the key is released, the lever falls back again. This little apparatus is so simi^ly put together that, with the knowledge you have already gained, you will have no difficulty in understanding it without illustrations ; in fact, you need not adhere implicitly to the directions given above. Thus, in- stead of a bell, you may use a piece of hard wood, and give your friends a series of spirit- wrapping seances that will rather astonish them, more especially, if you keep your telegraphic instrument out of their, but not of your, sight. When the line is in work, a little wooden wedge may be in- serted temporarily between the poles of the magnet and the lever, or the lever may be turned aside ; otherwise, you will create a continual ringing or rapping that would be rather a nuisance. The code of signals given above is that known universally as ,thG '-single-needle code." As you become practiced in the art of sending messages, you will find it convenient to invent a series of arbitrary sig- nals, such as, R R for '' repeat," L L for '' understand," 11 L for '' goon,-' and so on. HOW TO -MXIUZ A CHEAP TEETICAL DPJLLIXG :^[AOIIINE. Get a piece of stout 2 in., plank of some hard vrood (oak orbcccli), 12 in. by 8 in. (Sec a. Fig. 1.) About 2 in. from one end firmly mortise another piece of the same wood, perpendicular, 10 in. high by (J in. thick- ness, B, Fig 1. Next make or procure a perfectly circular disk of wood i:, in. diameter, -i in. thick, with a deep groove round the edge. In the centre cut a neat hole, whicli may be lined with brass, by inserting firmly a small piece of brass tubing, \ in. bore. A1)0ut IV in. from the SG EVERY BOY HIS OTTX MAXUEACIUEEK. centre of this disk fasten a handle, d, which can be neatly turned out of hard wood. 3^ in. from the bottom of the upright B, and in the centre of its width, insert a piece of wire, c, which is to be the axle of the wheel, and must fit comfortably into the hole in the centre of the disk. (If a hole be drilled in the wire, and a pin, s, put in to keep the wheel or disk from slipping off, it will be an improvement.) Now buy one of those small brass pullies, about -} in. diameter (such as are used in shops for hanging up the scales) m the bottom of B, and directly over the axle, c. Next turn another disk, i, 2 in. dia- meter, with a groove round the edge like the large one. In the centre of this cut neatly a square hole, i in. each side. Get two pieces of inch-board, H and g, 5 in. hj 3 in. Nail H to the top of B, so that 3 in. of it projects beyond p.. G is to be mortised into EVEPwY BOY HIS OTVX ilA^TFACTUREK. 87 B 5 in. from the bottom, and is to project the same as n, whichis exactly over it. Now 2 in, from b pierce holes in h and g, exactly in the middle of the width of the wood, and perpendicularly over each other. (It is of great consequence that they should be perpendicularly over each other. ) Now turn to Fig. 2, which represents the part which carries the drill. This may be made of brass, but mahogany, or any other nice hard wood will be as good, and cheaper. Total length, a r 9 in., a c 3 in., c r 2 in., D r 4 in., b c and d e maybe i in. diameter, c d is to be cut square, each side being a little less than i in. The lower end e f is to be wider than the rest, and a square tapering hole cut up through it, in which the drills are to be put. A tightening screw, f, may also be added with ad- vantage. This is now to be put into the holes in h and G (as in Fig. 1), and the wheel i to be put on the square part c d. g and n must next be put in their places. Now glue a piece of wood, 1 in. diameter, to tho top of the drill-holder. See a b, Fig. 2 and Fig. 1. Pierce a hole dia- metrically through this, and fasten in it tightly a rod of brass or iron, o p. At each end of this rod fix a heavy ball of load. These are to bo equal in weight and equally distant from the centre (to act as a fiy- wheel and weight to press down the drill). An endless band of whip- cord or catgut is now to be carried round the large wheel e, over the pully F, through holes made in tlie upright b, and round the small wheel r. Lastly, cut a square hole in the bed-plate a, 1 in. each side, as shown by the dotted lines at ir. Our drill is now complete. When the handle d is turned the drill-holder revolves with great ra- pidity. And as the square part c d fits loosely into the wheel i, the weight of the balls of lead presses down the drill into the work below. The hits may be purchased cheaply at any tool shop, but those of a brace can be used if the amateur has them. Tho drill in one form or another is an almost indispensable machine in an amateur's work-shop, and the cheapness of the one here described will be found a great re- commendation. a simple galvai^ic bati:ery. For quickly forming a good, f^hoap, and powerful galvanic battery, wa believe no method is more available than that given by Dr. Goldingbird. '•' Procure the bowls of six tobacco pipes, and stop up the holes, left by breaking off tho stems, with sealing wax. Place on the table six small glass tumblers, each an inch high, like those used by children as toys ; place in each a cylinder of amalgamated zinc; let a pipe-bowl rest in 83 EYEEY EOY niS OVrX MA^'UFACTUPvEr.. each /^Tlinderj and place iu every one a slip of thin platinum foil, one and a quarter inches long and half an inch vride, connected at the zinc cylinder by platinum wire : fill the pipe-bowls with nitric acid, and the tumblers with diluted sulphuric acid : and an energetic current of elec- tricity will be set free, capable of decomposing water, igniting wire, charcoal points, etc.'' HOW TO MAKE A DIOEAMA. Most boys are eager to construct a peep-show of some kind or other, and their efforts occupy very many pleasant hours during the long even- ings of winter. In the absence, however, of some competent guide and judicious helping hand, the peep-shows constructed by our young friends are for the most part crude, clumsy, and inartistic. The same amount of care, ingenuity, and labor, if properly directed, would lead to very pleasing and satisfactory results. We propose to give some suggestions as to the construction of cosmoramas, panoramas, dioramas, and similar pictorial illusions, commencing with the latter. A favorite peep-show among boys is the stage; but we never saw one, even if ''got up regardless of expense,'^ that was not ridiculous when viewed critically. First, the drawing and coloring of the scenes was in- accurate and tawdry ; secondly, the figures introduced upon the stage (the characters, in fact)were in most extravagant and preposterous attitudes, which, as they could not be varied, gave the figures the aspect of being stuck and petrified. Then the loading of these figures witti tinsel is the worst possible taste, besides being utterly at variance with true princi- ples of art. We cannot, therefore, recommend our boys to expend their money and ingenuity upon the stage ; we have something better in store for them. As it is impossible to give action to the animated beings that are in- troduced in the pictures of a peep-show, we must select such as are in a EYEEY EOY HIS 0"^'X MAXUFACTCEErv. ?9 State of inaction or repose. We cannot represent a traveler TralkiuL; along a road, but we can make him sitting on a stone, or the trunk of a tree, taking rest, without inconsistency. So also a hoy may be repre- sented sitting on the parapet of a bridge angling, because that pursuit demands quiet; so also, if the scene admits of a flock of sheep reposing, the shepherd may be introduced tuning his pipe, adding to the illusion of the scene, rather than detracting from it. The most interesting view lacks interest unless living creatures are introduced into it ; therefore, it is necessary to seek such subjects as may be employed without jarring upon our ideas of possibility, or marring the general effect of the picture. A diorama is a picture which presents its subject under a two-fold aspect; it is a double picture, or rather two pictures in one. This result is obtained by painting the subject on both sides of the canvas ; one side, or the front, being viewed by reflected light, as we ordinarily view pic- tures and other objects; the other side being made visible by the light passing through the canvas — it is, in fact, a transparency. By this mode of treatment, the subject depicted on the canvas may be represented under widely different aspects. Thus, a landscape may appear under the ordinary efiects of sunlight when viewed by reflected light, and as a moonlight vievr, or under the influence of a passing shower and thunder-storm, with rainbow, when viewed by transmitted light. Or the landscape may be flrst seen under the garb of spring, with its green foliage and blue sky, and afterward shov\-n with a wintry garb of snow and a gloomy sky. An architectural subject, the interor of a cathedral, for instance, may be first shown as daylight, and vacant ; next as illuminated for a mid- night mass, with throngs of people worshiping. Thus, it will be seen, the diorama affords a wide scope for the exercise of ingenuity and taste, while its results are of a most pleasing and instructive character. The effects described may be produced on any scale. The original dioramic pictures were between three and four thousand feet in super- ficial measure, and the illusion was so perfect, that it was difficult to believe it to be produced by painting] on canvas. The same effects, though not so startling, may be obtained by a carefully constructed port- able diorama. The portable diorama consists of a box, constructed so as to show a picture under varying influences of light. The box itself is a very simple aflair, which any carpenter can put together ; the greater amount of skill is demanded by the pictures, which require to l)e well drawn, and painted by one acquainted with tiie principles of the art of painting. The top cover being gradually lifted, and the color-screen romovod, the picture will be seen under the aspect of noon-day; after which Iho tints of the atmosphere will acquire an orange hue, which nuist bo given ,00 EYEEY EOY ni3 OVv'X MAXUFACTUEEE. by the inlroductiou Of appropriately tinted screens. A passing storm and shower may next be shown ; then the storm clearing off^ with the landscape illumined by the purple and golden rays of the setting sun. This change is effected by gradually closing the cover in the top of the box, during the thunder-storm, and gradually opening the cover at the back, which, with appropriately colored screens, will produce the proper sunset effect, the snowy tops of the mountains being tinged with red; and if the picture is skillfully painted, the sunset may be succeeded by twilight with the crescent mooa in the west, changing the color of the screens from red to blue. It would be impossible to enumerate all the eff"ects that may be pro- duced by a skillful painter. Those described above will suggest many others. Endless variations of light and shade and tint may be obtained by management of the covers and screens, either separately or in combi- nation. One cover may be partially closed, and the other wholly open ; or both may be partially closed ; or the top may remain open while the end is shut, or the top shut while the end is open, according to the effect aimed at. All the eff"ects attempted in a picture must necessarily be carefully rehearsed [.before exhibition : the screens must also be conspicuoush' marked with a letter or a number, and a memorandum of instructions drawn up for the management of each picture, to guide the exhibitor unerringly during the display. Provision may also be made for the imi- tation of thunder and lightning, rain and hail, and the noise of falling water, the whistling of the wind, etc. To a young beginner, who does not possess sufficient skill to i)aint elaborate pictures, engravings of a certain class may be made subservient. For a diorama on a small scale, the engravings of public buildings, monuments, etc., offer an excellent resource. In the diorama, it will be understood, the picture is contained on a simple flat surface of canvas or paper. I-IOW^ TO MAKE A OLOCE: FOE TW'EIsTT- FIVE CEXTS. Yes, boys, a clock — a real clock, for twenty-live cents — not a mere make-believe, but a clock that will go for hours, and will tell the correct time, and even ring an alarm to call you up in the morning if you wish it ; and all this you can make for yourselves at a cost not exceeding EVEKY EOY HIS O^TX MAXUFACTUKEr.. twenty-five cents. It need not cost you so much if you are ingenious. It will cost you but little more if you let others make the framework for you. I made one of these clocks many years ago. It went admirably, and it used to hang in my bed-room, and would ring me up punctually in the morning when I wanted to go bathing or fishing, and could not trust to my wakefulness alone ; besides, it introduced me to some novel ideas, andafibrded me au opportunity of displaying my decorative abilities on its case. In mv jrrandmother's house there was an old days in into the pul- pits, and one is shown in Hogarth's print of the sleepy congregation. There is one still existing at St. John's , Church, Bristol, England, where I saw it not long ago, B and it reminded me of my old clock so forcibly that I fancied there must be many boys who would like to make one. '"Ob,"' I hear some boys say, ''it's only a sand-glass after all." p. _t^ But it is not only a sand-glass — it is f^-^^^^^f—*f^ hour-glass. Thev were common enough in thos( • f'/^^^^^~^\OY HIS OWX MANUFACIUllEr.. pass point placed midway between the corners on each side, strike four Iialf-circles, to form the scollops. Saw, or wlnttle out, the shape given in the eugraving, for the hack or wall piece. If the shelf is required to bo wide or deep, make it the half of a circle of eleven inches diameter; but if less width is preferred, use a narrower piece of a larger circle. Cut out a brace to put under the shelf. With brads nail all the parts firmly togethej. Bore the hole to hang up by, and it is complete. Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. For Figure 2, a nine-inch square, with circles at each corner of two inches diameter, having holes bored in of half inch. Shelf and brace as given in the design. Nail together securely. For Figure 3, make a circle of nine inches ; at a distance within the circle of one inch, set the compass point to strike the four circles of three inches diameter. For the shelf, make a half hexagon, or octagon, as the straight lines will make a pleasing contrast with the curved lines. The brace to be of one simple curve and short straight part. In this design, if the shelf extends the total width of the back-piece, it will look well. Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Figure 4, to be ten inches square. With auger bore two holes on each side of each corner, to produce the indentations ; cut the line straight ^rom the inside of each hole to the corresponding one nearest to it on EVERY BOY HIS 0"\VX ITAXUFACTUEErt. 9o the same side. Mark out the proportions indicated in the engraving-, with compass and rule, or by the aid of paper pattern. The shelf should not extend farther than shown in the design. Figure 5, by the aid of a paper pattern, can be easily marked out without other directions than already given for the other designs, and the accompanying engraving. Figure 6, a corner bracket, is not so diOicult to construct as it would seem at first glance. Two wall pieces, cut out by pattern, and nailed together at a right angle, with shelf affixed, are all that is required. parisia:n wiiatxot. The materials for this handy article in sitting or bedrooms are easily obtained and put together. A sheet of stout pasteboard for the founda- tion, cut into three pieces, for the back, bottom, and front, should be covered with cloth, or any other substance suitable ; on the front piece, which should be longer than the back by several inches, to allow of the bending out required to form the receptacle, you can sew on any cut-out oraaments of silk or velvet ; or embroidery or colored binding will an- swer as well. The addition of a bright colored silken cord and tassels finishes this useful and pretty ornament. gildi]:nCt o'n glass. Dissolve in boiled linseed oil an e([ual weight cither of copal or amber, and add as much oil of turpentine as will enable you to apply the com- pound or size thus formed as thin as possible to the ])arts of glass intended to be gilt. The glass is to be jjlaccd in a stove till it is so warm as al- most to burn the fingers when handled. At this tcinperatiuT, the size IH.) ETEEY BOY HIS OTTX MAXUFACTUEEK. being adhesive, a piece of gold leaf applied in the usual ^ay will im- mediately stick. Sweep off the superfluous portions of the leaf; and when quite cold it may be burnished, taking care to interpose a piece of Indian paper between the gold and the burnisher. IIAH"GI]SrG POETEOLIO. This is to be made of pasteboard covered with gilt or wnite satin pa- per. It can bo made of any size you wish. It may be left plaiD; or a picture pasted on in front. Lace the sides together with a cord %v rib- bon. Hang with a cord and tassel. This is ornamental, and useful for holding small articles. HOW TO MAKE BALLOOISrS. Take tissue paper, (red, white and blue looks the best), and cut it into strips forty inches long, twelve inches wide in the middle, six inches wide at the lower end, and tapering off to a point at the other end. Cut eight or nine of these strips and paste them carefully together, so as to have the points meet well at the top ; then get a hoop about eighteen inches in diameter, or the size of the lower end of your balloon, and paste the balloon on to it so as to hold it open ; and when it is en- tirely dry your balloon is done. The way to send up a balloon is to place a sponge on a wire stretched across the noop ; then pour alcohol on the sponge and set it on fire ; and continue to pour on the alcohol until the balloon rises. The burning alcohol generates gas. ETEET EOT HIS OW^" irANTTACirKER. 97 TO ^lAHE THE LIME LIGHT EXHIBIT- ED AT THEATRES. In order to exhibit this beautiful light with an apparatus of one's oxn construction, it is necessary, first of all, to provide a square pine box 13 in. long, by 16 iu. high ; blacken the inside of it with lamp-black and size ; then affix to the top of the box a tin top similar to that of a magic- lantern, to act as the chimnev, and carry off the heat. In the centre of the bottom of the box cut a small hole sufficiently large to admit the blow-pipe, and one inch and a half behind this small hole bore a smaller one with a gimlet, which is intended for the spindlo to go through that holds the lime. Now cut a round hole, 7 in. in diameter, in*the centre of the front of the box. and here there should be a sliding panel in a groove, so as to open and shut on the light at will ; for the lenses arc placed at this hole. Provide yourself with three plano-convex lenses, white, green, and red. similar to tliose used for signals on the railways — these are employed to produce the various colored effects suggested by the scenic artist, and each lens should be fixed in a small frame. Pass the spindle through the little hole made with the gimlet, then drop on to it the cylinder of lime. Through the other hole in the bottom of the box, pass the blow-pipe, so that when fixed the point of the blow- pipe shall be opposite the centre of the Ume, and so close to it as to ad- 98 EVEEY BOY HIS OWK MAlTUrACTUKEE. mit a five-cent piece to pass freely between the lime and the point of the blow-pipe. We may here explain that the blow-pipe stuffing-box (in which the gases mix), and the brass tubing attached to it, with a stop-cock to each end of the the tubing, are sold all in one piece. Vulcanized india-rubber tubing, of any length, half an inch in diame- ter, must now be attached to each of these stop-cocks, and at each other end of the India-rubber tubing must be attached a gas bag. Having filled one bag with oxygen gas, and the other with hydrogen gas, it is desirable first to turn on the hydrogen, and light it so as to warm the lime, then gradually turn on the oxygen, and the brilliant hght is produced. The colors are varied by changing the lenses before the front of the box. You must occasionally turn the spindle round that holds the lime. In the diagram below we have taken out one side of the box to show the arrangement of the interior, which will enable ourreaders to fully understand the description of it here given. Now to manufacture tiie gases. Procure a retort, the globe part of which must be made of copper, and 4 in. diameter, with a screw to open at the top for putting in the ingredients ; a little below the top (at the side) a short piece of copper tubing, about 2 in. in length, should be brazed in,, and to this affix with a union joint about 5 feet of patent gas piping, turned up at the extreme end, which end place in the pail of water and into the little bee hole under the purifier. Take a common pail, three parts filled with water, into which place the purifier — this purifier is made of tin, somewhat in the form of a bee- hive, hollow, no bottom, a small opening in the top, and another small opening at the side; just where the bees would go in. Into the opening EVERY BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTUEEE. 99 at the top is a brass neck and union-joint attached, into which affix a piece of flexible tubing 3 or 4 feet in length, the other end of which at- tach to your oxygen gas bag. Unscrew the top of the retort, and place in it f lb. of chlorate of pot- ash, and ilb. of powdered manganese, which must first be well mixed together, then screw on the top again. Place a spirit lamp with a good flame under the retort. The gas will soon commence to give ofif— take care that the stop-cock of your gas bag is turned the proper way for the gas to enter the bag. The diagram illustrates the process. The hydrogen gas you can procure in this way ; affix the india-rub- ber flexible tubing to the female joint of any gas burner — taking care that all the air is first expelled from the pipe — and your hydrogen bag will soon be filled. • In order to force the gases out of your bags to produce a brilliant light, have two boards lightly constructed, in a wedge-shape with hinges ; you will require two sets of these, one for each bag. Place them between ; it will be necessary to have holes made in the boards beveled, to alow the stop-cocks to come through. Now place weights, either of shot or bags of sand, upon the boards, to produce the pressure ; an equal weight should be placed on each bag. We may just remind you that after making the oxygen gas, you should immediately wash out your retort, and dry it well before again using. You will find it convenient, in exhibiting the light, to place the appa- ratus (cut 1) on a frame with four legs. An old worn-out cane-bottom- ed chair makes an excellent stand. THE AET OF MAKING FIREWORKS. CHAPTER I. The Art of making Fireworks, whether for military or ornamontal purposes, appears to have been known in one form or another from timo immemorial. The Chinese seem to have practiced it many centuries before the birth of Christ, and the ancient Hindoos undoubtedly used a species of rocket both for signaling and as missiles. The Greek fire mentioned so often by classical authors, about the comj)osition of which there have been so many disputes among learned men, seems to have been a compound of salti)ctrc, sulphur, and possibly petroleum or i)itch, which, when once ignited, could only be put out with the greatest difliculty. Pyrotechny was first practiced in Europe by the Florentines in the 13th century, and soon sj)rcad to France, CJermany, and England. Mod- ern chemistry has done much for the art in the way of introducing now 100 EVERT BOY HIS O^TS MAXTFACTUREE. materials or improved methods of combining old ones, until it has reached a pitch of excellence beyond which it would be difficult to go. Thp magnificent displays that were to be seen on the occasion of the Em- peror's fetes in Paris were the admiration of everybody, and the silly idea that was formerly entertained by certain "overwise people that fire- works were only fit for children, has long since passed. There is also a notion that firework making is a somewhat dangerous amusement, which requires to be exploded. Danger, after all, is only a question of exercising more or less care and prudence. The lack of these two qualities will transform every action of life into a dangerous operation, from crossing the road to climbing the Alps. Any accidents that have occurred to firework makers can all be traced to the ignorant or foolhardy conduct of some of the people employed. It is true that several of the compounds used in pyrotechny are dangerous under cer- tain conditions, but never let those conditions arise, and the danger ceases. For instance, the young experimentalist should as soon think of mixing firework compositions by night as of drawing his knife across the back of his hand. All operations, of whatever description, connected with the making of fireworks, should be performed by daylight only, not merely for prudential reasons, but because it is impossible to tell by candle light whether the various compositions are properly mixed or not. Certain pyrotechnists have been in the habit of giving receipts for mix- tures that by keeping become spontaneously explosive, but it is hardly necessary to say that none of these dangerous compounds will be de- scribed ill the present article. The causes of these accidents are now well known, and the materials giving rise to the danger have long since been discarded by all prudent firework makers. Many of the operations connected with pyrotechny are rather dusty and dirty in their character ; common tidiness, therefore, will dictate the necessity of wearing one's oldest clothes while at this kind of work. All chemicals and compounds used should be kept in closely-corked bottles, and, as many of them are poisonous, they ought to be locked up in a warm, dry cupboard, when not in use. It is as well to carry on the mixing of the compositions and the filling of the cases upon an old metal tray, as many of the compounds into which fine charcoal enters, are very difficult to get out of table-cloths, carpets, and clothes. We will begin by describing the various chemicals used, then the few pieces of apparatus necessary, and lastly the method of making the various kinds of fireworks, beginning with the simplest of all, the ordi- nary cracker, and ending with the rocket — the cJief cTceuvre of modem pyrotechny. The materials described below should all be purchased of a first-rate operative chemist. It is most foolish economy to purchase such articles at the nearest chemist's, and is the great cause of failure amongst ama- :oi d2S3t»>t»i ample - It of tiieiiitixii ?okinficpover ^flrdiecnaici -jthecadsof ;^ier^ Imt with tct; - '-2«e, bat thee:: 102 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MAXUFACTUEER. gerous, causing the spontaueous combustion of the compositions con- taining them. Gum.* — Ordinary gum arabic is sometimes used in making rocket and Eoman candle stars, but a little thin starch will answer the purpose just as well. GuxpoWDEE.* — Ordinary grain gunpowder, or cornpowder, as it is technically termed, is much used as an explosive agent in squibs, crack- ers, maroons, and mines. When reduced to fine powder it is known as meaJpotvder, and enters into the composition of a number of compounds. Cornpowder can be bought anywhere, but mealpowder should be pro- cured from the operative chemist's. Never attempt to grind it for your- self, as it is too difficult and dangerous an operation. Ieox Filixgs. — These should be from cast, and not wrought iron. They should not be too fine. They are much used for sparkling fire for squibs, pin-wheels, &c. They must be carefully preserved from damp, as they rust very easily. The filings from ordinary work-shops are generally too rusty and greasy for use in pyrotechny, besides beiug]]mixed with dirt and filth. Lampblack. — Used for the same purposes as fine charcoal. Five cents' worth from the druggist's will last for years. It should be heated red-hot in a fire-shovel before use, to drive off any oil with which it may be contaminated. MealpotvdePv. See GrxpowroEP. Lead, Chloeide of. — Much used in blue and red fires. It serves to bring down the tendency to orange and yellow caused by impurities in the other ingredients with which it is associated. Calomel was formerly employed for this purpose, but chloride of lead replaces it perfectly. Bed lead and litharge arc used in certain compositions. These two may be bought at the druggist's. Nitrate of lead is a valuable ingredient in several compounds. Great care must be taken to procure the pursalt. Nitee. See Potash, Niteate of. Potash, Niteate of.* — This important compound, commonly known as nitre and saltpetre, is the soul of pyrotechny, so to speak, seeing that it enters into the composition of nearly every compound used in making fireworks. It should be procured in a state of the finest powder, and well dried before use. It is hardly necessary to say that it must be kept in a well-corked bottle. When strongly heated it gives off large quan- tities of oxygen, and enables such incombustible materials as iron and steel filings to burn with great brilliancy. Chlorate of potash is another most valuable salt, and possesses all the virtues of nitrate of potash in an exalted degree, producing large quantities of oxygen at a compara- tively low heat. In making colored fires it is invaluable, and enters into the composition of nearly every one of them. One caution is necessary EVERY BOY HIS OVTS MAXUFACTURER. 103 touching this salt : never, under any circumstances whatever, pound or powder chlorate of potash in any composition containing it. Resln".* — Common resin, ground to a fine powder, is often used as a substitute for shellac in this manufacture of colored fires, hut the latter article is so easily procurable at a cheap rate, that it is hardly worth while to substitute resin for it, more especially as certain colors arc greatly dulled by the large amount of smoke it produces. Shellac* — If you have a good pestle and mortar and a strong arm, you may buy this material at the druggist's, and pound it for yourself. Soda, Bicarboxate of. — Five cents' worth of common salt may be bought at any druggist's. The oxalate, howevep, should be bought of some first-class chemist. The two salts are used in making orange and yellow fine. Steel Filixgs. — Those are much used in sparkling compositions. They resemble cast iron filings in their properties, and should not be used in too fine a state of division. {See Irox Filixcs.) Stroxtia, Nitrate of. — This salt is the principal basis of most red fires. Unfortunately for the pyrotechnist, it has one very great fault — it is, in the language of the chemist, deliquescent ; that is to say, it has an insuperable tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere, and be- comes so damp that its combustible properties are entirely destroyed. The salt must therefore be dried by artificial means, before it is used in pyrotechny. A small earthenware pipkin is placed on a slow fire with about half a pound of the salt, and constantly stirred. As the heat in- creases it gradually dissolves itself into a liquid mass. The stirring must now be kept up vigorously, and as the water evaporates the salt assumes the form of a light powder. It should next bo pounded finely in a mortar, and preserved in closely-corked bottles. Any compositions containing this salt should be used almost immediately after they are made; otherwise they become damp and useless. The carbonate is a white powder, without the deliquescent properties of the nitrate ; but, as in the case of salts of baryta, its colorific power is greatly inferior. Sulphur. — Great care must be exercised in procuring washed sul- phur, for if it is contaminated with tho smallest portion of sulphuric acid, it is not fit to form part of any mixture containing chlorate of pot- ash. The use of impure sulphur has, no doubt, been the cause of nu- merous explosions in firework factories. You may easily verify the fact for yourself by mixing equal i)arts of pounded sugar and chlorate of potash, and touching the mixture with a glass rod dipped into sulpliuric acid ; tho wholo bursts into flamo immediately. To make assurance doubly sure, it is perhaps just as well for every one to wash their own sulphur. The process is exceedingly simple. Throw half a i)()un(l of flowers of sulphur into a pint jug, and fill it up with hike-warm water. Stir it up briskly, and allow the whole to settle for half an hour, then 104 EYEUT BOY HIS OWK MAXTjFACTUIlEU. pour off as much of the clear water as you can. Repeat this process twice, and spread the wet sulphur on a plate with a spoon. Place the whole in a cool oven, and when thoroughly dry, powder the mass with your fingers. Half a pound treated in this way will last you for years. Having laid in a small stock of materials — those marked with an as- terisk will do very well to begin with — we must next get together a few pieces of apparatus, which, for the present, will be very simple. A flat piece of board, say 2 feet by 2 feet, to form a table for making the cases upon ; another piece of smooth board, 2 feet by 8 inches, for rolling the eases ; a piece of brass rod i of an inch in diameter and 8 inches long ; a piece of steel wire 3-16 of an inch in diameter and a foot long ; two tin funnels about 2 inches diameter at the mouth, the tube of one being J of an inch, and of the other i of an inch in diameter; two pieces of brass wire, 1 foot long, and i and 1-16 inches in diameter, respectively. The brass and steel rod and wires may be obtained at any iron- monger's, and the first tinman you come across will make the funnels for a few cents. We shall also require some good paste, and a few sheets of cartridge paper. The best thing to begin on is a cracker, which is about the simplest form of firework we have. Take a piece of cartridge paper 12 inches long by 31 inches wide, and lay it flat on the table. Fold down f of an inch along the whole length, then turn down, the double edge thus obtained i of an inch, and fold the single edge back upon it. If you now undo the fold you have made, you will find that you have formed a little channel in the paper i of an inch wide. In this lay mealpowder as evenly as you can from end to end ; reclose the channel, and continue to fold over until you get to the opposite side of the paper. Pass a paper-knife along the flat tube thus formed several times, and with your finger, just damp with the paste, touch the ecfge of the fold all the way along, and press it down. When the whole is perfectly dry fold it backwards and forwards into the form of a cracker — which is too familiar to every one to need description — tying it firmly in the middle with fine twine. The cracker is now so far finished, and only wants its free end to be wrapped up in touch paper to be complete. Touch paper is made by soaking common blue or pink paper in a pint of water, in which an ounce of nitre has been dissolved. When dry it should be cut into strips an inch wide. A small piece of this is just touched with paste, wrapped around the end of the cracker, the loose portion being twisted together to keep the powder from falling out. Of course you will see that there is sufficient powder In the mouth of the cracker before screwing up the end. Maroons are made by wrapping up a thimbleful of meal powder or corn powder in a piece of cartridge paper, and surrounding it lightly •with well- waxed fine twine, crossing and re-crossing until no more of the EYEET EOT HIS OVTS MAXUrACTUEEK. 105 paper is visible. The more tightly the string is wrapped round the pa- per, the louder will be the explosion. As soon as the string is secured, a hole is made in the middle of tho maroon by a brass bradawl, a little piece of quickmatch inserted, and secured with a morsel of touchpaper and paste, a second piece of touchpaper being wrapped round the free end of the quickmatch. Quickmatch, it may be mentioned, is made by passing a strand of ordinary lamp-cotton through a thin paste made of gunpowder and water. When it is dry it is dusted with mealpowder. A quantity of it should always be kept on hand, as it will be very frequently used as we go ou. By uniting a series of say twenty-one maroons together by means of their quickmatches, a very effective salute may be fired by way of be- ginning a pyrotechnic display. The next simplest fireworks are lances, which are tubes of paper ^ of an inch in diameter, and 6 inches long, filled with a white or colored composition. They are used to form a number of devices, the descrip- tion of which we must leave for the present. The piece of brass rod i of an inch in diameter is technically termed a Jormer, and is used for making the cases of lances, squibs, serpents, gold and silver rains, and other small fireworks. If you wish to do things in a magnificent manner, you may make it ^ an inch in diameter j or if, on the contrary, you desire to be particularly economical, you can reduce it to i of an inch. The size given, however, is -a very good one for general purposes. Having reduced your paste to the consistency of a thick cream, with a little water, lay a piece ot cartridge paper, ti mches long by 3^ inches broad, on your pasting board. Fold down 1 inch of it, turn it over, and lay the former along the folded edge, and roh the whole up tightiy until about f of an inch is left. Cover this with as small a quantity of paste as possible, by means of a stiff hog tool, working as much as you can with the very tips of the hairs. Now roll on until the case is finished, continuing the operation with the small piece of smooth board already described, which must bo used just as a carpenter uses his plane. The object ot using this board is to bring the layers of the cases as close to- gether as possible, and to squeeze out all superOuous paste. You must of course take care never to roll backwards, as you will loosen the folds of the case iustcid of tightening them. When the case is nicely formed, slip it i of an inch ofi" tlio former, turn the open end inwards with the thumb-nail all round, and stamp the former on the board, so as to llatten the turned-in end securely. Slip off the finished case, and allow it to dry at least a couple of days; when perfectly dry, pour in sufficient fine- ly-powdered clay to fill the bottom to the depth of \ of an inch. This must be rammed down tightly by means of a second piece of brass rod, and a wooden mallet. Do not Ui^o your former for thia purpose, other- 106 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MANUFACTUKER. "Wise you will turu up the end and spoil it. This hammer may -be made of wood, if necessary. The cases are now fit for filling, which is accom- plished with a little contrivance known as the wire and funnel. The tube of the larger funnel is inserted in the mouth of the case, and a piece of brass wire, i of an inch in diameter, passed through it. Suf- ficient composition to fill the cases is poured into the funnel, and the wire is worked up and down till the operation is completed. In most cases the composition should not be rammed down too tightly, otherwise it will burn irregularly. The ordinary weight of the hand, without ex- erting much extra strength, will be quite sufficient. The following compositions for lances have stood the test of long ex- perience, and will be found to answer their purpose admirably. No. 1. White. iTitre 16 parts. Sulphur 7 " Sulphide of Autimony 4 '* Red Lead 1 " No. 2. White. isTitre 16 parts. Sulphur 6 " Sulphide of Antimouy 3 " No. 3. Full Red. Chlorate of Potash 10 parts. Carbonate of Strontia 3 " Shellac 20 '' This is a very beautiful composition, but is hardly so brilliant as the following. It is of course less troublesome to make. No. 4. Full Red. Chlorate of Potash 9 parts. Nitrate of Strontia. 14 '' Nitre 4 " Sulphide of Copper 1 " Shellac 4 " This should only be made a day or two before use, and not rammed too hard into the case. The nitrate of strontia should be perfectly dry, or the color will be injured. No. 5. Rose. Chlorate of Potash 8 parts. Nitre 2 " Chalk 3 " Shellac 2 " A very delicate color, forming a lovely contrast with the following •when burnt side by side. No. 6. Geeen. Chlorate of Barvta 6 parts. Chloride of Lead 2 ♦' SheUac 1 " rVERY BOY HIS OTYX MAXrTACTTRER. 107 This mixture is somewhat expensive, owing to the large amount of chlorate of baryta contained in it. It is of a most lively emerald green, and should be burnt simultaneously with the last named composition. No. 7- Greex. 1 Chlorate of Potash 30 parts Nitrate of Baryta 45 " '* Shellac - Sulphur i " This is not so brilliant as the preceding, but when economy is desira- ble it may be used with advantage. No. 8. Blue. Chlorate of Potash 2G parts. Oxychloride of Copper t 12 " Chioride of Lead 2 " Nitrate of Lead 2 • • Shellac 4 • Sulphur 1 • This is a most lovely color, especially when used in conjunction with the following : No. 9. Yellow. Chlorate of Potash 24 parts. Nitrate of Barrta 8 •* Sulphur ' 3 " Resin 3 " Bicarbonate of Soda. 5 •'* No. 10. Oraxge. Oxalate of Soda. 3 parts. Chlorate of Barvta 2 " Shellac ' 1 ♦' No. 11. Lilac. Chlorate of Potash 24 parts. Sulphur 8 *•' Chalk 3 " Oxychloride of Copper 2 *• This forms a very lovely combination with Nos. G and 0. The above list gives a very fair idea of what may be done in colored fires with a comparatively few materials. When economy is necessary, Nos. 1, or 2, 3, 7, 8 and 9, will give a very good choice of color for the least outlay. The parts mentioned mean, in every instance, parts by iccight, and not by measure'. Any ordinary pair of scales will do for this purpose, but the weights should be troy ounces, drachms, and grains, as they arc the easiest to work with. In our next chapter we will give instructions for making Bengal Lights, S^iuibs, Serpents, Silver and Golden Ilains, Roman Candles, etc., with illustrations showing how to make the cases, stars, etc. 108 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MANUFACTURER. CHAPTER II. Before commencing the second chapter of our article on Fireworks, it will be as well to remind our readers that the intimate mixing of the va- rious ingredients with each other is a matter of the greatest importance, for upon it depends entirely the success of any pyrotechnic display. It is performed by throwing the materials to be mixed into a paper or card tray, and stirring them together with a little cardboard shovel. This operation should take ten minutes at least, according to the amount of composition you are working with, otherwise a proper mixture cannot be made. No composition should ever be put into a case until it is tested. This is done by laying an even train of it along a piece of waste board, and firing one end. If it burns evenly the mixing is properly performed ; if, on the contrary, it splutters here and there, or goes out in the middle, it must be worked at with a little more patience. Kecollect, once for all, that good materials are one half of the battle ; thorough mixing is the other half. The proportions given in any of these receipts may be halved or quartered if necessary. The drachm troy is a good standard to take, but five cent pieces or pennies answer the same purpose. Bengal lights are the next simple firework that we shall describe. They maybe made by filling one-ounce pill-boxes with brilliant or colored compositions, and closing the case by pasting touch paper round the opening, and twisting it together. The following compositions are better adapted for Bengal lights than those given for lances. In the Bengal light it must be remembered that a large surface of the composition is burning in contact with the air instead of a small one. The materials used are consequently burned under slightly dissimilar conditions. White Bengal lights may be made from composition Nos. 1 or 2. No. 12. Ceimson. Mtrate of Strontia 29 parts. Sulphur 13 " Chloride of Lead 2 '' Sulphide of Copper 10 " Shellac 1 " Chlorate of Potash 12 " The remarks appended to No. 4 will apply equally to this composition. No. 5 may be used if a rose-colored fire is desired, but it is better to in- crease the proportion of chlorate of potash to 9 parts. No. 13. Gree:n^. Kitrate of Baryta .'.27 parts. Sulphur 8 '' Shellac 2 " Chloride of Lead 2 " Chlorate of Potash 9 •' EVEBY BOY HIS OVTS MAXTTACTUEEE. 109 No. 6 may also be used, but is rather expensive. Ko. 14. Yellotv. Xitrate of Barvta 24 parts. Sulphur .' « '' Bicarbonate of Soda 4 " Kesin 2 '' Chalk 1 '• Chlorate of Potash 12 '^ No. 15. Orange. Xitrate of Strontia 90 parts. Sulphur * *25 " Lampblack 5 '•' Oxalate of Soda G " Chlorate of Potash 16 " No. IG. Blue. Nitrate of Baryta 20 parts. Sulphur o3 '* Oxvchloride of Copper 18 Sulphate of Potash 17 " Chloride of Lead 2 •' Chlorate of Potash 2 " ♦ A row of Bengal lights of different colors, connected by a quick match, forms a capital beginning to a display of fireworks. Squibs and serpents may be made in cases similar to those used I'or lances, but the number of turns in making the case should be increased to six or seven. They are made of various sizes, according to circum- stances ; half an inch in diameter by six inches in length is a very good ordinary size. Tamp the ends with clay as directed for lances, or choke them; tie tightly with twine and dip the ends into melted resin. The operation of choking is performed in the following manner : Take a piece of stick slightly smaller than your former, and of about the same length, and round off the end of it. Take another piece of about the same length, and treat it in the same manner. Bore a hole in the latter, and insert tightly a piece of copper wire about one-eighth of an inch thick, leaving about half an inch projecting. Bore a corresponding hole in the first piece for the admission of the wire, and the apparatus is complete. The choke-former is shown in section, in fig. 1, with a case on it, ready for choking. Take a piece of whipcord a couple of yards long, and fasten one end to a post or nail in a wall, and the other round your waist. Twist it once round the case at the junction of the two halves of the choke- former, and by gradually working the case round and round on its axis, you will be able to form a neat choke in a few minutes. ^Yith(lraw the choke-former, and you will have what may be termed an '' open choke." By continuing the operation vou will entirely close the aperture left bv 110 EVERT BOY HIS OTr>- MAyUFACTrRER. the wire of the former, and obtain wliat may be called a *^ close choke.^ This is shown in fig. 3, fig. 2 showing the '*' open choke."' Tie a piece of twine around the choke, making several turns, and dip the end into melted resin. Case-choking is a very simple operation, and takes about a tenth part of the time to perform that it does to describe. Having closed your case either by close-choking or tamping, pour in an inch of corn-powder by means of the funnel and wire, and ram down tightly. Insert the wired half of the choke-former in the case, pressing the wire down into the powder to form ah open choke, as before directed: tie neatly, and withdraw the former. Pour in a pinch or two of meal- powder and ram down tightly, after which fill up with squib composition to within half an inch of the top, where an open choke is made and tied. The remainder is filled with squib composition, and capped in the usual manner. The open choke over the powder is to increase the noise of the explosion, the one near the mouth is to increase the motive power of the squib when thrown into the air. Squibs are often made without choking at all, but they are much inferior to those described. The choke near the mouth must not be less than i of an inch in diameter, or else the case is apt to burst from the force of the burning composition. This defect can only be discovered by experiment. If the hole in the choke prove too small, it can easily be made larger by untying it and enlarging the aperture with a pointed stick. There is much confusion about the names "squibs" and "serpents," either word being applied by different authors and makers to the firework just described. The true serpent is made in the following manner : Close-choke your case, and tamp with i of an inch of clay; to make assurance doubly sure, ram with squib composition until within li inches of the end ; open-choke, ram in an inch of corn-powder and close-choke. It will be seen that this process is the reverse of the former, as we begin filling at the mouth instead of at the bottom of the case. When complete, bore a hole 1 of an inch in diameter, with a brass bradawl i an inch below the tamp ; insert a piece of quick match and cap as usual. The hole from which the fire issues in this instance being at the side, the firework will perform a series of serpentine gyrations when thrown into the air. Sometimes the corn- powder is placed in the middle, the two ends being filled with composi- tion, and bored at opposite sides. Fig. 4 represents the section of a squib ; fig. 5, that of a serpent. The double-ended serpent need not be shown. When serpents arc used in the heads of rockets, they are frequently made without the charge of corn-powder. The following compositions may be used indifferently for squibs or serpents. They are all good in their way, but it is just as well to fill a case with each, and burn them together for comparison's sake. EVEEY BOY HIS OWX MAJTCFACTUREK. Ill Nos. 1, 2, 3, AND 4. Meal-powdsr. 4 10 32 18 parts. Steel Filinss 1 1 f) '*' Charcoal..^ 1 " i^hre 1 1 " Sulphur 1 1 1- " Cast Iron Filings 5 " Nos. 3. and 4 serve well for pin-vrheels. Golden and Silver rains are made by tamping cases similar to those used for lances, and filling with one of the following compositions. The mouths are closed with meal-powder made into a paste with spirits of wine. They should not be driven very tightly. They may be stuck up- right in the ground, or in a piece of clay placed on a post, or thrown into the air. In the latter case they should not be made too long. Except when used on the heads of rockets, they are what a Yankee would call "a kinder one-hoss sort of firework." Golden IIaix CoMrosixiox. Nos. 1 , 2, AND 3. Meal-powder G 8 5 parts. Nitre 1 1 ♦•' - Tine Charcoal 2 3 1 « SiLVEi: IIaix Comi'Ositiox. Nos. 1 AXD 2. Meal-powder 10 16 parts. Nitre 13 1 " Sulphur 2 1 '' Zinc Filings 20 " Steel Filings 5 " We now come to the lloman candle, a species of firework that will tax the young pyrotechnist's skill and care to the utmost. The Koman candle consists of a long, strong case rammed with brilliant fire and stars, with small charges of corn-powder beneath them, being inserted at intervals. The case may be regarded in some sort as a gun, or mortar, from which luminous stars are fired instead of shot ; it must, therefore, be made of great strength in order to withstand the power of the explosion. They are made of all sizes; and their calibre, like rockets, is measured by the size of the leaden ball they will contain. Thus, a 2-ounce Roman candle does not mean one that will contain 2 ounces of composition, but one of the same diameter as a leaden ball of that weight. The 2-ounco size is the one that wo should recommend as being the most manageable. It is made on a former IH inches long and 5 ofan inch in diameter. Take a sheet of imperial two-sheet pasteboard and cut it into six pieces as shown in fig. (3. Each piece will measure about 14 inches by 7 inches, imperial pasteboard being about 28 inches by 21 inches. Next cut a sheet of imperial 70 lb. brown paper into 2 pieces, as shown in fig. 7, 112 ETEEY BOY HIS OWX MAXUFACTrREE. each of which will measure about 14 iuchcs by 21 inches. Take one of the pieces of pasteboard and roll it round the former, taking care to moisten it thoroughly with paste. Having worked it well with the rolling- board, undo about an inch and insert the edge of the strip of brown paper which you have previously covered with paste ; roll it up tightly, using the rolling board to squeeze out as much of the superfluous moisture as possible. You must use your judgment as to the amount of paste neces- sary for making a good case. If you are too generous you will make your pasteboard and paper too damp, and the case will most likely twist in drying ; if, on the other hand, you use too little, it will not be strong enough to withstand the force of the powder. Of course the first round of pasteboard must not be pasted, otherwise it will stick to the former. Slip the case carefully off the former, and place it aside to dry. This will take three or four days in summer, and a week in winter. You may, if you like, place the cases near the fire, but not too near, otherwise they will warp. When quite dry, cut them into lengths 14 (inches long, and ram the ends with half an inch of clay, taking care to beat each ladleful down firmly, with ten or fifteen blows of a mallet. Having made a stock of cases, you must next set to work to mix the composition and make the stars. There are a large number of composi- tions recommended by different authors, but the two following will be found to answer their purpose admirably. NOS. 1 AXD 2. j Afeal-powder .....-,. 4 20 parts. yitre 8 5 '• Charcoal.. 3 4 " Sulphur 3 7 " In No. 2 the charcoal may be replaced by steel filings, which, of course, will increase the brilliancy of the fire. The stars for Roman candles are made by slightly moistening one of the following compositions with ordinary shellac varnish, and pressing it into a mould as shown in fig. 8. A is a wooden former, i an inch in di- ameter, into the end of which is inserted a piece of copper wire i of an inch thick, and projecting t of an inch. B is a ^brass tube, \ an inch in diameter inside. The tube is placed firmly on a flat surface, the damp composition thrown into it, and the former A inserted with all the pres- sure you can exert. The object of the projecting wire is to limit the size of the star to i an inch in thickness, as well as to pierce a hole in its centre. Having compressed your stars, lift up the whole and push out the composition with the former. Your star will now resemble a little millstone I of an inch thick, i an inch in diameter, and with a hole in its centre of i of an inch. T\'hen perfectly dry, insert in the hole a piece of quick match, leaving t-^. 'jcd on each side, which you turn down on tiie star, C. ETEPvY BOY HIS OWX MANUFACTURER. 113 The followiug compositions are selected from amongst a large number. Nos. 1 AND 2. White. i^itrc 8 3 parts. Charcoal 1 1 '• Sulphur :i 1 " Sulphide of Antimony 2 " Sulphide of Tin 1 " No. 3. Green. Chlorate of Potash 2 parta. Nitrate of Baryta 1 " Sugar 1 '•' Chloride of Lead 1 '' No. 4. Blue. Chlorate of Potash 48 parts. Sulphur 21 •• Osychloride (►f Copper 21 '*' Chloride of Lead 4 " Shellac 1 " No. 5. Yellow. Chlorate of Potash 4 parts. Nitre 2 Sulphur • 2 Bicarbonate of Soda 2 '•' Sugar 1 " For red and crimson stars, the composition recommended for lances Avill serve excellently. You must take great care to allow the stars sufficient time to dry before using them. It is as well to insert the quick match in the star the last thing, as the open hole materially assists the drying. In order to distin- guish between the stars, it is a good plan to fasten to them with a toucli of gum a tiny morsel of colored paper. Everything being- ready, pour into the case enough composition to oc- cupy i an inch, and ram it down with ten smart blows of a mallet ; then ram down another i inch in the same manner. The first charge of pow- der, 00 grains, must now be poured in and rammed down. Uuou it is l)Iace a piece of touchpaper h an inch square, and lastly, the lirst star. Next, throw in a square of touchpaper, and ram two separate ^ inches of composition with ten blows of the mallet to each. It is better to divide the inch of composition into two than to ram it all at once. On the top ram in the second charge of powder, 20 grains ; and then the second | star, until the case will hold no more, of course finishing with a charge of composition. The charges of ])owder diminish as they get nearer the mouth of the case, in the following order:— 1st, GO grains; 12d, 20 grains; 3d, 15 grains; 4th and 5th, 12 grains; Gth and 7th, 10 grains; 8th, 8 grains. No pains should be spared on the exact adjustment of these charges of powder, for on their proper relative proportion will dci)cnd thebcauty of the display of stars. The filling being completed, the mouth 114 EVEUT BOY ins OW^ MAXCFACTUREIl. of the case is primed and capped with touchpaper in the usual way. If the cases are made pretty thick they will serve over again. FiQ. L m m w f^-F m -. 'ir f T^rJ Pig. 2. Kg, 3. rai, ^ K!..A« 5a:i__^ Fig. 6. 30 bQ Fig. 7. 30 B ^ 4^ J Fig. & Fig. 1 is a firework-case slipped on two formers with rounded ends, which are joined together by a short wire. Pig. 2 is a firework- case half choked at the bottom. Fig. 3 is the same, completely choked. Fig. 4 is precisely similar to Fig. 5, but the toj:^ is ordy half cho'ked. Fig. 5 is a squib completely choked at the bottom, half choked in the middle; and completely choked at the top. The lower part is filled with gunpowder, the upper with composition j a tail of touchpaper being in- serted in the side. Figs. 6 and 7 show the method of cutting the paper and pasteboard ^i,J Fig. 8. B is a brass tube, and A is a wooden former that fits into It. A is half an inch shorter than B, and is provided with a wire at the end lialf an inch long. It is used for moulding stars, which, when made, are like little cheeses with a hole through them. In C a piece of touchpaper, which has been passed through the star and turned over top and bottom, is shown. EVEPvY BOY HIS OWX MAXUFACTURER. AQUARIUMS. They are exceedingly ornamental and interesting features of homes ; and there is an opportunity for almost unlimited study in connection with them. We give herewith, illustrations of recent styles which are ap- proved, and which may suggest something hetter to those interested. A recent article in the Scottish Farmer says the aquarium should he of rectangular shape, as then the objects within it arc not liable to appear distorted to the eye through unequal refraction ; this form also admits of their better construction, it being less liable to accidental fracture, and also enabling us to use glass of such even strength and thickness as will best sustain the weight of water within. The size is unimportant. It may be square, six-sided or eight-sided. Fig. 1 represents a hexagonal or six-headed one. They arc made ^^ IG by 9 inches, 18 by 10 inches, 20 by 11 inches, and 24 by 12 inches ; the height and depth being alike, with frames of bronze, or gilt, or silver plate. Some persons have a cover of plate glass I'aised about •one inch from the upper edge, to ^keep out the dust and to prevent ^^^ the fish from jumping out, which Fig. 1.— Rustic Hexagonal Aquarium. they will SOmctlmcS do in their play; but we think a fine wire gauze on the top (see Fig. 2) is prefer- able, as it gives more air. It may bo laid either flat or as in the engrav- ing. A cover of cither sort is indispensable if cats have access to tho room in which it is kept. It is also necessary to have a piece of muslin the size of one side of the aquarium, to hang on tho outside of it, be- tween it and tho window, to protect it from tho direct rays of the sun, which are very injurious to the fish, frequently destroying tiiem. Having procured the aquarium, the next thing to do is to procure somo rather coarse sand (such as building sand) ; this must bo v.'cll washed with clean water, to free it from clay or other impurities. About two inches in depth of tho sand so cleansed is to be laid on tho bottom of the a(iuarium ; on this jjlace a layer of fine, well-washed smooth p(!b- bles. It is al.jo desirable to build up a small piece of rock-work in the centre or at cither end, made of material from tho bottom of some running brook, taking care in building it to leave open spaces or passages between the stones, which not only give a picturcscpio, grotto-liko ap- j)earance, but also affords dark nooks in which the fish delight to hide. If a pipe for a fountain can bo attached, so much tho better. Tiion fill 116 EVERY :]0r HIS O^VX MANUFACTUEER. up' your aquarium to within two or tlireo inches of the top, with clear river or rain water, and it is ready to be stocked. Plants can be obtained from any fresh water brook, but it is not desir- able to have large leaved or coarse growing species. The most suitable are those which grow wholly immersed in the water, as they give out large quantities of oxygen to tho water, while plants with large floating leaves, like water lilies, do not. The most common or readily obtained, as well as the most desirable, are the different species of Callitrichc, or water starwort, and Fotamogcton, or pond weed; the ZannicheUia pa- justris, or horned water weed ; Hottonia mflata^ or water violet; Fig. --Aquarium ^vith Gauze Top. ^ ^^^.^ CUriouS plant ; LepIanthuS gramineus, or water star grass ; the different species of 3IyriopliyUiim, or water millfoil ; Isoetes, or quillwort ; and Nasturtium officinale, or water cress. To these may be added the Lemna, or duckweed, which makes a very pretty addition to the aquarium, floating on the surface of the water. In gathering these plants, pro- vide yourself with a can or pail filled with water; remove them with a ball of earth or mud to their roots if possible, placing them in the pail of water for transportation, and then plant them with the ball of earth at- tached, in the sand, laying some pebbles or small stones upon their roots, to keep them in place. After the plants have been in- troduced, the aquarium should be placed in a well lighted position for a we.ek or ten days, to give the plants an opportunity to es-l tablish themselves, before putting in the fish. Care must be takenl to remove every dead leaf, stem, ^'^' 3.— Aqnadum -tvith Grotto and ronatain. or other decaying vegetable matter. A sure sign of the plants being in a healthy condition is to see the sides of the tank and the rock-work covered with clusters of air-bubbles when exposed to the sunlight. ETEKT EOT HIS OWX lIAXCFACTUlUiR. 117 GLASS-BLOWIXG FOE BOYS. Any of our readers fond of clieniicid and i»hilosophical experiments, will find it a great advantage to be able to make the apparatus that is required to can-y on their researclies. A slight knowledge of carpentry will enable them to manufacture stands for their test tubes, boxes to contain chemicals, and such like articles ; but for the rest of their re- quirements, the art of glass-blowing niust be cultivated. By the aid of a little inexpensive apparatus, combined with a stock of materials in the shape of tubes, rods, and plates of glass, of various sizes and thicknesses, a great many serviceable articles can be manufactured ; and though at first some difficulties may be encountered, and the results of the tyro's handiwork may be far inferior to similar articles purchased from the trade, these drawbacks will speedily be diminished as practice makes perfect, and those defects in workmanship which always occur during the earlier stages of apprenticeship will gradually yield to increasing skill in the workman. The first thing required is a lamp. Of this sev- eral patterns are made, some to burn oil and others spirit, while that very commonly used in the tra'de when gas cannot be liad is constructed for burning tallow. The last is perhaps on the whole the best, as it af- fords a powerful and large flame, very necessary when a bulb is to bo blown, or a tube of an inch diameter of thick, hard glass is required to be bent. This lamp is of the form shown in fig. J. A is the body of the lamp of strong tin-plate ; 13 the cover, hinged across the middle ; C a smaller cover, used when the lamp is supplied with oil instead of tallow. The part between D and F forms the wicll-holdcr; it is an open space to which, however, a flat piece of tin, notched at one end, D, shown separ- ately at H, forms a cover. The latter merely rests on a small ledge near the top of the wick-holder. By sliding this piece to the left the wick becomes more exposed and the flame larger. The cotton forming the wick lies in a kind of sloping channel of tin, L, which/csts in an in- clined position, as seen in H, where its situation is shown by the dotted lines. E is a cap or hood, a front view of which is shown at M. It has two arched openings opposite to each other, and when it is brought down upon the flame the blast of air ft made to enter at one of these, and the flame is thus driven out of the other, and assumes a somewhat pointed form without any smoke, and of intense heat. The direction of tho blast should be towards tho broad part of tlie lamp, as tho pillow is thus kept in a melted state. Tho hood is sui)portcd by arms of tin, pivoted .to tho sides of tho lamp, and tho arched wire keeps it raised to any do- Isired height. It is always necessary, when the above lamp is used with 'tallow, to trim and readjust tho wick immediately after tho required op- eration is at an end, otherwise when the lamp has become cold and tho 118 ETEIIT BOY HIS 0"\VX MAXUFACTURER. tallovT cong-ealecl into a solid form, it will not bo possible to draw for- ward the wick without placing the whole before a fire. In using this lamp, care should be taken to trim the wick with sharp scissors, so that it may forn3 a compact mass as large or larger than the middle finger of ■the hand. The part projecting above the tallow should be an inch long, and this should be divided into two equal parts, so that a kind of chan- nel througli the wick may be formed to receive the full strength of the blast. If the nozzle of the blow-pipe be removed further from the cap, the flame will be less acute, and will form a broad, red sheet of fire, rounded at the head and roaring like a small furnace. By advancing the blow-pipe close to the cap, the llame will become long and finely pointed. ■A few ti'ials will teach the operator more than a whole page of letter- press, and the best position of the blow-pipe nozzle and of the cap (which keeps down the smoke and prevents, injury to the eyes) will be readily found by experiment. The ordinary niiouth blow-pipe, fig. 2, will generally be iusufticient for glass-blowing, although very useful in chemi- cal operations, or for soldering small articles oi jewelry, and for'many processes requiring a comparatively light blast of air directed through the flame of a candle or small lamp. There are several kinds of blowing apparatus so constructed as to leave both hands at liberty, and to re- quire but slight exertion on the part of the operator. The first to be described is Tilley's hydraulic blow-pipe, in which a column of water, raised by the action of the breath, is made to drive out a steady blast of air by its gradual return to its original level tlu'ough the action of grav- ity. This is sufficient for many small works in glass, and is generally used as an accessory to the laboratory. An occasional blast from the lungs will keep up the current of air, whereas the mouth blow-pipe re- quires to be constantly in the lips, and the human bellows have to be incessantly exerted — a great evil if the chest is delicate. A, B, C, D, fig. 3, is a tin vessel about IS inches high, 9 inches wide, and 4 inches deep, with a cover at D. In the drawing the internal ar- rangements are shown as if the whole were of glass, so that the construc- tion may be clearly understood. E is a partition, soldered so as to be air and water tight, to the top and sides of the vessel, but not quite reach- ing to the bottom. The top part of the case, as far as the hinge, is also air-tight, but into this are soldered t\fo tubes — one about two inches long, the other reaching nearly to the bottom of the case and project- ing nearly two inches above it. Across the lower end of the long tube is loosely tied a piece of silk, which, when pressed close to the bottom of the tube by the action of the water, forms an air-tight valve opening downwards. On the upper end of the same tube is attached, outside the case, about a foot of flexible tubing ending in an ivory or wooden mouth- piece, A piece of brass pipe, of a size to fit tightly inside the second short tube, is bent to a risht ande, and into one end is screwed a blow- KVEBY EOT HIS O'VV^' JklAXTTACTUEEB. 119 120 EVERY BOY HIS OVTS MA2sUFACTUEEE. pipe Dozzlc. Of the latter it is well to have two or three pierced with (lififerent sized holes-. This part draws like the tube of a telescope in the outer tube, and can be also turned in any direction, according to the po- sition of the lamp. At M this part of the apparatus is shown, with the several pieces composing it viewed separately. A, the nozzle; B, the bent tube into which it is screwed; C, the short pipe through which B passes stiffly, so as to form an air-tight but moveable junction; D, the level of the top of the case, into which C is soldered. This apparatus is used as follows : The case is rather more than half filled with water by the cover D. Part of the liquid will pass below the partition, and both sides of the case will be equally filled, the water standing in each at the same level. Air is now blown by the lungs into the flexible tube, which air, bubbling up through the water, will accu- mulate above it, and drive the liquid back into the left side of the case, where it will rise to a much higher level. The silk valve at H will pre- vent the water from being driven by the pressure of the air back to the mouth of the operator. In a few seconds the right hand side of the in- strument will be full of air, and the left side full of water. The blast from the lungs may then cease for a time, and the pressure of the water as it sinks down in the left-hand chamber to recover its former level, will drive out the air through the blow-pipe in a steady, uninterrupted stream. An occasional blast from the lungs will suffice to keep up the action of the instrument, which, on the whole, is not only an ingenious, but likewise a really effective apparatus. The power of the above is not, however, quite sufficient for all purposes of glass-blowing, for if a con- siderable length of tube is to be operated upon, say two inches or so, as in blowing a large bulb, the nozzle must be large, and the exertion con- sequently greater, to keep up the necessary supply of air, added to which the fall of so short a column of water is insufficient to produce the strong blast then needed. Tilley's blow-pipe must in such cases yield to one of the many forms of glass-blowers' table, in which the blast is supplied by bellows, either double or single. In the latter case an elastic reservoir for air must be added, such as a bladder or bag. In fig. 4 we give a blow- pipe table, specially designed to suit our readers' pockets, or within the power of their own proable skill in carpentry. As double bellows alone cost at least five dollars, exclusive of the requisite table and fittings, wc have brought into use the ordinary house bellows, and so arranged the whole apparatus that these may be removed at pleasure and refitted in a few minutes in case they should be required elsewhere. In fig. 4 the bel- lows are seen at A, lying upon the floor, but slightly raised by a bar of wood at G, in order to allow the air free access to the valve underneath. To the nozzle is attached an india-rubber tube, which should fit tightly and be further secured by tying. B is a square box like an organ pipe, shown again at K ; at the top, bottom, and on one side is attached a EVERY EOY ETS OWX MAXTPACTUPwEE. ]21 122 EVEET BOY HIS OWX MANUrACTUEEE. round tube of wood. Just above the lower one is a leathern valve, which at every puff from the bellows opens upwards, allowing the wind to pass but not to return. The side pipe is attached to the neck of a large bladder, which thus forms the reservoir of wind. A weight resting on the bladder (not shown in the drawing) drives out the air through the upper tube, where it is attached to an elastic pipe leading to the nozzle of the blow-pipe. The best way tp weight the bladder is to lay over it a piece of canvas netting or cloth, and to attach a weight to both ends of the latter. This will keep up a uniform pressure equally distributed over the whole surface of the bladder, and the blast will prove very regular and constant. This apparatus constitutes, in fact, a double bellows at a small cost. The nozzle of the blow-pipe should consist of two tubes, one within the other, as already described in treating of the blow-pipe of Tilley. The inner tube may be of hard glass, which can be refitted easily if broken, and the actual nozzle enlarged or diminished in aper- ture to suit the work in hand. Between the handles of the bellows is a chair spring, w^hich may be bought at the upholsterer's, and which serves to keep the bellows open until pressed down by the foot of the operator. There are other forms of blowing apparatus, but none so easily or so cheaply made as the above. If an air-cushion of rubber cloth be used instead of the bladder, a very durable apparatus will be made, but the bladder will answer almost as well. The tools required for ordinary glass work are few and simple. A conical-shaped piece of metal for spreading tubes, so as to open them wider, a pair of pincers to compress and flatten, and a three-cornered file to cut off tubes, are the chief requisites. If the top of the table is not covered with zinc or tin, a sheet of thick metal, smooth on the upper surface, should also be at hand. The above are shown at A, B, C, D, fig- 5. The first operation to be learnt in glass-work is the bending of tubes. The latter, it may be stated, should be purchased by the pound from any philosophical instrument maker or operative chemist. The tubing is of two kinds, one of which, having lead in its composition, is very soft and easily worked ; the other is much harder, generally called infusible, and this is in many cases by far the best to use. For making test-tubes and blow-pipe nozzles and apparatus required in analytical chemistry, it is indispensable, and is but little dearer than the other. One pound of assorted sizes should be bought to commence with. The thick tubes are the easiest to bend in a proper manner, and for this operation a large flame, such as is afforded by a spirit-lamp, used without any blast, is sufficient ; but the object will not be effected so quickly. Fig. 6 : A represents an evenly-bent tube -, B represents the form most likely to be given to the same by a novice. In the latter, the upper side of the bend is flattened; and the under side displays wrinkles or puckers, at which EVERT BOY HIS OWS ^lANUFACTUEER. 122 points a very slight jar will break the glass. The cause of this is first that the heat is coufined to too small a spot, and is probably of too high a temperature, causing the bend to be too sudden. It is very difiQcult to avoid this defect when a very thin tube is operated upon. The proper method is first to have a large flame, and if the bellows seem necessary, the jet must not be placed very close to the lamp. By this means a large volume of flame will be produced. The glass must first be held at a little distance from the lamp, and must be twirled about in the fingers until the part that is to be bent is gradually heated. It may then be brought nearer, and an inch or two in length fairly and evenly heated, being twirled the whole time in the hands until it begins to bend by its own weight. This bending must rather, be retarded than hastened. If the work is hurried the tube will either break off or will assume the form of B, fig. G. When the desired object has been effected the glass is to be withdrawn from the flame as gradually as it was made to approach it, holding it for a few seconds at a little distance, but within tho influence of the heated air, so as to anneal it. It will then become as strong at the bend as elsewhere ; but it should not bo laid on a cold surface of metal, nor exposed while hot 4o wet, or it will break. Tho bent tube may bo made into a spare blow-pipe or blow-pipe nozzlo if the two ends are three inches in length. For this purpose a point about one inch or an inch and a half from one end is gradually brought to the blow-pipe flame, which need not be large, and being turned round continually will soon become soft. The tube is then to bo gently pulled as if to stretch it lengthwise, when it will assume the form of fig. 7, and if this is continued it will at last draw out to a fine thread, and may be broken off (fig. 7, B). The ends of each piece will be found to be closed, and a file must be applied gently to cut off the extreme point. The tube will thus be seen to end in an aperture the size of a pin, and the file having been very cautiously applied to make tho extremity smooth, an excellent blow-pipe jet will have been made. It is, however, better to Iieat this minute point for a second to a red heat in the flame of tho lamp, to render the extreme point smooth ; but unless tho tube is removed tho instant it becomes faintly red hot it will bo reclosed, and must be filed oft' again. Next proceed to make a test-tube of the form of fig. 8. Select for this purpose a piece of thin hard tubing of tho size required — say half an inch diameter and seven or eight inches long, which will suflice for ttvo test- tubes—and these will bo made at tho same operation. Proceed as before to soften a spot in tho centre of the tube; but, as tho latter is thin you must work very cautiously, or you will melt Iho part heated into a hole. Keep, therefore, incessantly twirling tho work round and round until on pulling it you find tho glass yielding cvenbj on all sides, and not more in one place than in another. It is not necessary to heat more than an 124 EVERY BOY HIS OWN MAl^^UFACTURER. inch of the tube, as you waut it, •when pulled out, to assume the form of A, fig. 9; rather than B ; "whereas the latter would be the best if you were making a blow-pipe. You must try also to get the bottom of both as round as possible before entirely separating the two parts ; hence you must take care not to melt off the thin fibre of glass too quickly. When indeed, at last, this fibre is destroyed, you ought to have two perfect test- tubes. This, however, you will hardly succeed in accomplishing in your early essays, as it requires practice. Suppose the tubes separated, there- fore, and one or both to be somewhat ill-shaped, you must heat the ex- tremity, and gently — very gently — blow into the other end of the tube, and you will see the bottom swell out into a nicely-rounded form. Hav- ing accomplished this, heat the open end, and with the conical-shaped tool turn over a neat rim all round. This may be done by means of the end of any round wire, as large as a pencil, as easily as with [the proper tool ; but you must acquire the knack of rolling the tube quickly between the finger and thumb, while the instrument is held in a slanting position against the inside (fig. 10). After finishing the top and bottom as directed, it is a good plan to heat the tube again, but not sufficiently to soften it, and lay it on the hob to cool very slowly. This will anneal it perfectly, and it will bear to have boiling water poured into it without risk of fracture. All glass vessels that are required to stand heat safely are annealed in a similar way, being exposed in annealing ovens to the requisite temperature, and very slowly cooled. The next operation to be learned is blowing a bulb, so as to make such articles as small retorts or flasks (A, B, fig. 11). This will not be at- tempted on a large scale, as it is difficult to accomplish on large tubing, and requires a powerful blast and a double or treble nozzle to the blow- pipe. Bulbs, however, of one inch in diameter may be attempted with certainty of success after a few trials, and perhaps afterwards it may be advisable to extend the operation to tubes of larger size. The first at- tempt should be on a thick tube of small internal diameter (C, fig. 11). Seal up the end as before by drawing it out to a i)oint. If it is necessary to work so near the end for this purpose that it cannot be held as before by the hands, any odd piece of tubing must be taken up, and the end of both it and the tube to be worked heated red hot and applied together. They will at once unite, especially if both are turned about in the flame, and the pieces pressed and kneaded together. The added piece thus answers as a handle by which to take hold in order to stretch the tube when the latter is heated at the part required to form a closed cud. Hav- ing separated the parts, take that which is to have the bulb formed upon it, heat the end, so as to reduce the pointed portion, to which end it may be pressed down while hot upon the metal slab, or on a slate or any similar article. Then proceed to heat it again ; let the lamp be removed a short distance from the blow-pipe, and the wick spread a little, so that a broad EVERY BOY niS 0^'X MAXUFACTUIIER. 125 large body of flame may be produced. A portion of at least one inch must be exposed to the heat, and uniformly brought to a condition of melting, known by the color assumed, which will be jja/cred, approaching white. Quickly remove the tube, and blow into the open end, twirling it in the fingers at the same time, and a bulb will be formed immediately. Some precautions must, however, be taken to insure a satisfactory result. First, the tube must be thoroughly and uniformly heated, which can only be effected by constantly turning it in the flame; secondly, tho breath must not be sent forth violently or suddenly, or an immense bulb will result, so thin as instantly to fall to pieces in flakes. The air from the lungs must therefore be steadily, though strongly emitted. Thirdly, if a flask like A is to be made, the tube must be twirled while in the mould, otherwise the bulb will fall to one side, and a retort, B, will result. The whole operation requires speed without haste. Only one other operation will be described, namely, the method of joining tubes cither lengthwise or at any required angle to each other. In fig. 32, A repre- sents two pieces of glass of equal diameter. They may be at once joined end to end ; but by far the best way is to heat one piece, and with tho conical tool A, fig. 5, spread it open. Insert the piece to which it is to bo joined and bring both gradually into the flame, twirling them round constantly nntil the junction is perfect. If a ridge remains, gently pull the pieces lengthwise when moderately heated (not red), and the joint will be almost invisible. B shows the method of uniting a piece of largo tube to a smaller one, as in making a funnel. Larger funnels are blown as a bulb, a spot opposite to the tube is heated and touched with a wet finger to crack it. This part is then heated thoroughly and twirled rapidly, which causes it to expand and open widely. Other funnels are cast in moulds, the glass being melted and poured like lead. To unite the pieces, as fig. 12, C, heat a spot on the side of the tube, and also the end of any odd piece of glass, and using tho latter as a handle, draw out the hot glass sideways, break it ofi", leaving a short piece (tubular) standing out, and unite this to the other, as required, tho same as in the junction of A or B. Another way is to close the end of the tube, heat a spot, and blow a small bulb on the side ; open this, and thus form a pro- jection to which the tube may be applied as before. In glass-blowing, nothing but '^ practice will make perfect." HOW ^JX) MAKJ<: A MAGIC T.ANTETIN", The Magic Lantern is one of tlie most pleasing of oi)tical instrunionts, and has always a charm of tho most attractive nature for young folks. It is used to produce enlarged pictures, which, being painted on glass, are thrown upon a white sheet placed against tho wall of a room. A small 12(5 EVEKY BOY IIIS OAYX ALA^'UFACTUKEE. lautcni may be bought, with everything complete, aiul a dozen shdes of painting, for a few dollars ; but as some may prefer to try their skill in making one, we have prepared the following simple directions : Materials for the Lantern.— A lantern, that is to say, the box, case, or frame, may be made of wood, tin, or thick paste or millboard. If made of tin, you must call in the assistance of a tinman to cut the tin and solder it up together. If made of wood, you must have the assistance of a carpenter, or borrow a saw and plane, a hammer, and various other tools. If made of paste or millboard, you will require nothing but a glue- pot and somq strong melted glue, some sheets of millboard, and the va- rious dimensions can be cut into shape with a strong pair of scissors or a good sharp knife — the best for the purpose is a shoemaker's knife, and with the assistance of a sharpening stone, a good edge can be put on to the knife when blunted by cutting the millboard or pasteboard. Millboard is made in sheets of various degrees of thickness, and can be bought by the sheet at the bookbinder's or stationer's. Cut the sheet into pieces about a foot square and then paste on pieces of old newspapers until it gets a good thickness, and press the whole together by placing it in a binder's press, or between two boards with a heavy- weight on the top, so that all the pieces wanted for the lantern — sides, top, and bottom, (six in all), can be served in the same way, and a very- strong and cheap material procured for making the box to hold the light, an'd carry the tube that contains the lenses. Making the Lantern. — Take four pieces of thick pasteboard, pre- pared by any of the methods described, about eight inches square. Two pieces must be quite plain ; the other four must be as follows : — the toj) piece must have a place cut out to put on the chimney or tube, to take away the smoke from the lamp ; the front piece must have a place cut out to take the square frame or groove in which the pictures are inserted, and to carry the tube in which the lenses are placed ; another piece must have a portion cut out of the centre, and hinged on with pieces of leather to serve as a door ; while the bottom piece must have holes about half an inch in diameter made in it to admit the air, as this bottom must be kept off the table-top, or whatever the lantern may rest on during exhibition, by two pieces of wood about a quarter of an inch thick and one inch, broad ; these pieces must be glued on to the bottom edge from front to back, in order to let air up through the holes in the bottom, to enable the light to burn clear, and not fog the glasses. These six pieces must be glued, pasted, or otherwise fastened together, with the chimney at the top, and the tube in front. To complete the lantern there must be the box, the lamp, the reflector, the chimney for top, the tube front, and the lenses. When the lantern is finished, give the whole of it a good coating of glue-size and then paint it black inside and out, either with thin oil-color or lamp-black and thin glue, 'and finally, a thin coat of varnish on the outside. EVEKY EOT HIS OTTX MAXUFACITEER. 127 If a tin lautern is preferred, the best way would be to take the " in- structions" to a tinman, who could make one without difficulty, and fix the lenses which would be given him for that purpose. The lenses can be obtained at the optician's, and must bo fast^ one in the end of the tube, with a piece of wire bent round at the back to keep it in place, the other nearer the lantern, and just before the pictures that are to be reflected through. Any optician who sells lenses will tell you which to use for the front and which for the back, and how to obtain the focus. The tube should be about six or eight inches long, but all the various dimensions must be regulated by the size of the lantern and the jKDwer and quality of the lenses. The box we have described would carry lenses about two inches in diameter, but smaller ones may be had, if de- sired ; then the lantern may J3e smaller in proportion. The Lamp axd Eeflector. — The lamp must be made of tin, with a wick about half an inch broad, filled with sperm oil, and if a glass chim- ney can be placed over it, it will burn clearer, give more light, and .be more free from smoke — any tinman will make one for a few dimes. The reflector is a round piece of tin, •• hollowed up."' as they call it, and fas- tened to the back of the lantern, or on the back of the lamp ; the latter must be placed so that the bright part of the flame comes about the mid- dle of the lens, and when lighted, must slide backwards or forwards until the proper place is discovered that shows the picture best ; gener- ally about the middle of the lantern, or rather nearer the lens. Painting the Pictures. — There are three ways of doing this — either to paint them in transparent water-color, to paint them in prepared oil- colors, or to transfer small prints or lithographs by means of varnish to pieces of glass, and then use them. The materials requisite for each or all of these processes will be sable brushes, (the common camel-hair are of no use, for they do not keep their points) some ox-gall prepared, some cakes of transparent water-color, as Prussian blue, vandyke brown, raw sienna, burnt sienna, Italian pink, and lake. For oil-color, the same ground up in oil and enclosed in tubes, a bottle of turpentine, some mas- tic varnish, and a little japanner's gold size. But the most simple plan is the transfer process, which we win aescribo presently. If you decide to paint your views in water-color, you must get some clear pieces of glass, free from cracks or .scratches, and clean it with a little of the prepared ox-gall ; then, when the glass is thoroughly clean, dry, and free from grease, fasten the drawing, print, or whatever subject you wish to paint, on it to the back with a little gum at each cor- ner, then, with a fine sable brush filled with India ink or neutral tint, go carefully over the outline ; when dry, fill in with the water-colors very lightly, never going over the same place twice ; when this is all dry, give it a coat of varnish all over, and put aside to get hard. When hard and dry, go over those parts with water-color that want strengthening and making bolder, to bring them out, obsening, as bo- 123 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MA:N^UrACTUKER. fore, never to go over twice in the same place till the first is dry, and give it a coat of tbin varnish between each coat or tint of water-color. If the subjects are to be painted in oil-color, the outline must be care- fully marked out with black and a little japanner's size, and when set firm and dry, the various tints laid on in the same way as the water-color, only that there needs no coating of varnish between each body of tint, but let the glass remain for the picture to get dry. When all the tints are on, and the subject is strengthened up and made as effective as required, a final coat of varnish may be put over it. TuANSEEREiNa Peixts. — The transfer method before referred to is very simple, and, -when carefully done, very effective. Select a clear piece of glass, and give it a coating of thin mastic varnish, then take a small, clear, clean wood-engraving or lithograph, and slightly damp the back by laying it a few minutes in wetted blotting paper, then press it down on the varnish side of the glass, the impression side downward, place a piece of dry paper over this and rub it gently to get out the superfluous varnish and all the air-bubbles — this can best be done by the edge of a bone paper-knife — place a weight upon it, and leave it a couple of days to dry j give it plenty of time or you will spoil it ; when thoroughly dry and fixed, wet the back and gently rub all the white paper away with the finger or a bit of damp sponge, when the subject and lines of the en- graving will be found fixed on the varnish ; the picture may then be tinted with oil-colors, and with a final coat of varnish is ready to exhibit in the lantern. In coloring the pictures, the colors must be laid on very thin; the comic heads and figures introduced in the illustrations can be fastened to apiece of glass slightly at the corners to keep the subject from slipping about, and the outline traced as before described, and when thoroughly dry, color according to taste and fancy. To succeed it is most essential to keep the brushes and colors very clean, and free from dust, and not proceed in a hurried or slovenly way, as dust, dirt, and carelessness arc great enemies to glass painting. When the lantern is all ready and the slides all painted, which slides, if in single, round or square pieces, may be protected by having a piece of clear, clean glass placed over the paiuted and varnished side, (this will keep them from getting scratched or injured), they can be bound to- gether with a paper edging^, or put into wooden frames made for the purpose. Giving ax Exhibitiox. — In exhibiting the views, have a screen of fine muslin or white calico fastened tight against the wall, or a white wall will answer the purpose as well. Everything must be in good order; the lamp well trimmed so as to burn clear and free from smoke. To get a clear picture the lantern must be shifted to or from the screen or wall, and the tube holding the front lenses gently drawn in or pushed out until the proper focus is obtained, which will easily be found by placing your EVERY BOY HIS OTYX MAXUPACTURER. 129 slide upside down in the square aperture at the cud of the lantern-tube. The room in which it is intended to exhibit must have no other light in it; but be as dark as possible, or the effect of the light in the lantern passing through the pictures on to the wall or screen will be lost. A much better effect may be produced, if it can be managed, to show tJirough the screen. To do this, however, it is necessary to have a very strong light, and thin muslin must be used for the screen, which should be wetted in a pail of water and shghtly wrung out before fastening it up. DissoLTTN'G YzEws PRODUCED WITH OxE La>»'terx. — A pair of lanterns are usually employed to produce dissolving views, but a very good exhibition of them may be given as follows : Put in the picture out of focus you wish to show first, and slowly bring up the focus until it is perfect. Then as gradually alter the focus until the picture is again indistinct; quietly slip in a second picture, and at the same time remove the first. Again bring the focus up, and the picture will be as distinct and bright as the first was. This may be continued for any number of pictures. uo'sv TO :make ax aciieomatic TELESCOPE. When I was a boy at school, I was, as I still am, very fond of the no- ble science of astronomy. Finding that the complete enjoyment of it re- quired the assistance of a good telescope, and, Uke most schoolboys, not having a long purse, I thought that, with the assistance of the many ar- ticles on the subject published in magazines and other books for boys, I should have no great difficulty in making one for myself, more especially as I am naturally of a constructive turn of mind ; but repeated iiiilures led me to suspect what I have since fomd to be the case — viz., that the writers of the majority of these articles had never made a telescope them- selves, and knew little or nothing on the subject. I therefore determined to study the science of optics, and not only to construct, but also to de- vise, a telescope for myself, and I at length succeeded in producing, at the cost of seven dollars and a half, a telescope equal in all important respects to one costing seventy-five or eighty dollars. The fruits of my labors will be given to the readers of Every Boy HIS owx Manufacturer in this chapter, in which I will show how any boy can, with comparatively little trouble, make a good useful telescope. The general appearance of the finished instrument is shown in Fig. 1, and a section of it in Fig. 2. The same letters arc used to denote the same parts in both figures. A A is called the body of the telescope ; /, the sliding focus-tube ; o the object-glass, fifted in a cell, an enlarge^ condition of the atmosphere, the last being a contingency against which there is no guarding. A sharp frost will stop the action, if the vessel be left in a position exposed to it, and in a room of varying temperature the process will go on faster or slower, and in general will not be satis- factory. Much depends on the relative dimensions of the vessels, and on the size of the zinc generator, in connection with the strength of the solution, all of which can only be determined by actual trial. The writer remembers that his first experiment came to grief through the non-observance of some of these conditions. The depositing went on merrily for two or three hours, first coating the copper wire, then the top part of the mould, and then gradually spreading down- wards over the prominent rim, until it almost met on the lower edge,when it unaccountably stop- ped (fig. 6). As it was given over for a bad job, the cell was left undisturbed for some days, and then the zinc plug on being lifted out showed a beautiful incrustation of crystals covering the entire sm-face that had been immersed )fig. 7. ) These were crystals of sulphate of zinc, which had been formed by the over dissolution of the metal in the acid, the plug having been too large. The solution had become sur- charged with the sulphate, and had begun to re-discharge it in the form of crystals, both on the ii'i(i.S, zinc itself and on the walls of the cell, the pores of which it had efifectually stopped. In due time the incrustation would have grown so as to fill up the cell, and render the plug difficult of removal. This would not have hap- pened if the zinc had been amalgamated; and again let us repeat that this prehminary should never be dispensed with if good results are to be insured. Now we will go on to our more elaborate experiments. For quickness and certainty of operation, it is necessary to have a separate cell and depositing trough. Let the reader take the earthenware jar which contained his copper solution, and having nearly filled it with EYEEY EOT HIS OVTS MANUFACTURER. 143 dilute sulphuric a<;id, place therein at opposite sides a plate of amalga- mated zinc and one of clean bright copper. Let a copper wire be at- tached to each, and bent over so as to form anarch, as shown in fig. 8. While the wires are disconnected no action will take place j but directly they are made to touch, a multitude of bubbles of gas will be seen to issue from the copper plate, and escape at the surface of the liquid, causing a slight effervescence, similar to that which took place on the immersion of the unamalgamated zinc in the acid of the porous cell. This shows that electrical action is going on, a^ current is setting in from the zinc to the copper, through the liquid, and traversiug the wire back again to the zinc, completing the circuit. The same thiug would happen if the two plates were simply leaned against each other by their upper edges, but the conducting wires will be found useful for further illustrations. The reader is now requested to remember what was said about positive and negative electricity. TlO. 9. Before a current can be set in motion, the body from which it proceeds and the body to which it is conducted must be in opposite states of elec- tricity, the one positive and the other negative. The current flows from the positive to the negative body ; or perhaps it would be more correct to say, is strongly attracted by the negative body. We shall know more of this as we go on; at present it is only neces- sary to remark, tliat it is the zinc plate which is giving off positive elec- tricity, while the copper i)late, being negative, is receiving it; and it ic that fact which determines the direction of the current. The arrows in the diagram show this direction. Nevertheless, the wire which proceeds from the negative copper plate is called the positive pole, or electrode of the apparatus, because outside oj the liquid, the current flows in the di- rection of the zinC; and the wire attached to the ziuc plate thereby 144 EVEKY BOY HIS OWX MANUrACTUEEII. becomes the negative electrode. These two wires carried into a separate vessel, containing a solution of sulphate of copper, will set up electrical action therein; and if a second plate of copper be hung to the positive electrode, and a mould or other article suitable for deposition be hung to the negative electrode, both being immersed in the solution without touching each other, these two articles will now become the positive and negative electrodes, and the current will set in from the one to the other, completing the circuit through the liquid, and in its course decomposing the liquid, and carrying the copper particles to the prepared surface of the mould (fig. 9). CHAPTER III. ACTION OF THE ACIDS— YARIOUS BATTEKIES— WEIGHTS DEPOSITED. It is not at first sight apparent what the arrangement named in our last chapter is useful for. It is requisite to generate a greater quantity of electricity, so that the action shall be constant, unvarying, and rapid. A greater quantity of electricity is generated because there is a reciprocal action going on between the zinc plate, the liquid, the copper plate, and the whole apparatus. If we could only now see the process by which Nature is aiding our operations, we should indeed be interested. The sulphuric acid is disintegrating the zinc, through the innumerable pores of its quicksilver-coated surface, thereby evolving an abundance of elec- tricity, which in its turn is acting upon the water separating its particles of oxygen and hydrogen, and endowing each with electrical life. By an inconceivably rapid alternation of decomposition and re-combination of the substance, water, the current pulsates with the speed of lightning to the surface of the copper plate, which is acted upon more feebly by the acid, and so assumes a negative electrical state with regard to it, exer- cising thereby a strong attraction for the positively charged oxygen par- ticles, and repelling or setting from the negatively charged particles of hydrogen. Then the current rushes through the wire to the positive electrode, and by it is communicated to the copper-saturated liquid, which in turn it decomposes, having the strongest affinity for its metallic particles, and inducing in them each the strange electrical property, im- pels them towards the negative electrode by the force of the current, under the inexorable law which demands the formation of a circuit. Something new has happened, also, in this latter part of the process, to give a new impetus to the motion, and to react upon the motion started in the generating cell. The blue liquid, robbed of its copper particles, acts chemically, by reason of the acid containca in it, upon the copper plate which forms the positive electrode, and dissolves it just sufficiently to maintain its own equilibrium ; by that action generating new and positive electricity, which increases the quantity already in motion, and EVERY BOY HIS 0^7y MAXUFACTURER. 145 doubles the foiTce of the action. Aided by these reciprocal impulses, the current speeds on at a., rate altogether iucouceivable by any efifort of the human intellect, effecting such marvelous changes in its passage that, if only mortal eye could behold them, would strike us dumb with wonder. It will be found that both the zinc plate and the copper electrode aro dissolved in proportion to the amount of copper deposited on the negative electrode ; and if it should be thought strange that the copper plate in the generating cell remains apparently intact, and the negative electrode aotually receives an addition to its volume in the shape of the deposited particles, -while both are exposed to the same chemically dissolving in- fluences as the other two plates, it must be remembered that the force of the electrical current is setting strongly towards them (see page 139), they being in the negative or attracting condition, and thereby probably protects them from the action of the acid, thrusting it aside as it were with a force stronger than its own. Having arrived at this point, that the object is to obtain electricity in quantity, we will now proceed to describe the various forms of apparatus that have been devised with that view. These arc known by the names of their inventors, and are usually spoken of as Daniell's battery, Grove's battery, etc. It is improper, however, to speak of a single apparatus as a battery, even as it would be to speak of a single cannon as a battery of artillery ; it requires two or more cells to be connected together, in a way we shall shortly describe, to constitute a battery. The arrangement just described is a single voltaic pair, or cell. We shall, for convenience, adopt the usual nomenclature, and commence by describing DanielVs Battery. — This is a favorite arrangement, and consists of a porous cell placed in an outer vessel constructed of or lined with copper. An amalgamated rod of zinc is placed in the porous cell, which is filled with dilute sulphuric acid, and the outer vessel is filled with saturated solution of sulphate of copper, mixed with a few drops of sulphuric acid, and having a small cambric bag of crystals suspended in it, to bo dissolved as the solution becomes weaker. Our first single-cell arrangement can be converted into a Daniell's by simply bending round a sheet of copper to form a lining for the outer vessel. A wire from the zinc forms the positive electrode, and one from the copper cylinder the negative. (Fig. 10.) The advantage of this arrangement is manifold. First, the negative attracting surface surrounds the positive g(Mierat()r, and induces more electricity ; second, the hydrogen is not allowed to escape unused, but is arrested by tlie sulphate of copper, which it de- composes ; and third, a constant process of loss and renewal goes on 146 EVERT BOY HIS OWX MAXUFACTUHER. through the deposition of copper crystals on the outer cylinder, and the corresponding dissolution of the crystals in the bag. All these are active generators of electricity. By the use of this ar- rangement, two depositing processes are therefore conducted at once, viz., that on the copper liniug of the cell, and that on the model or mould ; and this might appear wasteful, but that the deposited copper has a marketable value, and can be readily sold for jewelers' purposes, being pure and free from alloy. It was in making experiments as to the best methods of generating Fig. 10.— DAOTEtL'S BATTEKY. voltaic electricity, that the beautiful process of electrotyping was stum- bled upon. The decomposition of a sulphate of copper solution seemed to recommend itself as a likely method ; and when tried and found to succeed, it was also discovered, without being looked for, that the result of the decomposition was a deposit of metallic copper, which showed the print of every line and scratch of the surface it was deposited upon. Thus, many of our most valuable inventions are the result of accident. ETERT BOY HIS OWS MA^'UFACT^EEFv. 147 Grove's Battery is also a favorite, from the energy of its action. Our two original vessels can again be made to do duty. Within the porous cell suspend a slip of platinum foil, folded lengthwise, without touching, so as to gee as large a convoluted surface as possible, for the acid to act upon. Place the porous cell in the middle of an earthenware jar, and surround it with a roll of amalgamated ziuc. Into the porous cell pour strong nitric acid, and into the outer jar dilute sulphuric acid (about one to six). The positive electrode proceeds from the platinum, and the negative from the zinc (Fig. 11). Bunsen's Battery is precisely the same as the above, with tho excep- tion tha a stick of carbon is substituted for the platinum. The carbon suitable for this purpose is obtained from tho distillation of coal, in gas ma- king retorts, and may be pro- cured from any chemist. It is a much cheaper medium than platinum, and not much less powerful. Smee's Battery. — In this a plate of silver (s) covered with a very thin layer of platinum is fixed between the plates of ziuc (z z), the plates being pre- vented from contact by slips of wood, and the whole coupled together with a binding screw. The plates are immersed in di- lute sulphuric acid (Fig. 12). WoUaston's Battery. — This is on a reverse principle to Smee's, being composed of one zinc plate between two plates of copper, the negative enclosing the pos- itive, instead of the positive enclosing the negative. The solution used is the same. It is unnecessary to pursue tho list further. The principle of action is identical in all cases, viz., to get power and vohnnc of current by in- ducing positive electricity to the greatest possible extent in one sub- stance, and negative electricity to the same extent in the other. The substances which have been named, and many otliers, are known tx) electrical science for their positive and negative properties, their rcla- 11— gkovp:s cattery. 148 EVERT BOY HIS OWIS MAIfUFACTURER, tive positions with regard to each other in that respect being well ascer- tained. The action of the different acids upon each of them is also well understood, and the superiority of one arrangement over another con- sists in the more or less ingenuity with which these different elements are combined. Some have a preference for one system, some for an- other, and the probability is that if advice were sought from a dozen experimenters, each would recommend a different apparatus. Any of them may be procured complete from the manufacturing chemists of any large town. With a single pair on any of these systems, and with a convenient square depositing trough of sufficient size, the learner may obtain copies of casts, medallions, etc., large enough to form respectable ornaments for his walls,, or may even make his amusements serve him for a variety of useful purposes, which will easily suggest themselves. He must remember that, for copper deposition, what is want- ed is volume, not intensity, of cur- rent. Some of the arrangements, such as that of Grove, are valua- ble for their intensity, and as'such are not so suitable for this pur- pose, but for other purposes, of which we have yet to speak, in- tensity is a desideratum, and this is to be obtained in perfection by the most powerful systems ar- ranged in the form of a battery. We shall describe this in its proper place ; so far as we have yet gone, we want only volume, and this is to be obtained almost without limit by increasing the size of the plates and the capacity of the vessels. ^' Give me," says Mr. Aitken, apostrophizing the new power, ''give me more elbow-room ! Increase the capacity of my chambers ; give me more cakes, more drink ; lengthen my arms of copper wire ; make my work- shop bigger^I care not how far distant. I will work from eve to morn, from morn to dewy eve; I want no day of rest: Give me what I ask, and leave me alone to work." And by liberally acceding to these do mands, the Messrs. Elkington have succeeded in depositing motal stau- 11G. 12.— SMEE'S ^BATTEEY. ues two tons in weight and from ten to fourteen feet in ;eight, some EVERY BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTURER. 149 which may be seen adorning the world-famed Albert Memorial in Hyde Park, London. Daniell's Battery. Grove's Battery. A — Outer earthenware jar. A — Outer jar. C— Copper liniug. Z— Zinc roll, P — Porous cell. P — Porous cell. Z— Zinc rod. P F— Platinum foil. P E — Positive electrodo. P E— Positive electrode. X E — i^Tegative electrode. X E— Xegative electrode. CHAPTER IV. THE LEA.D TREE — QUANTITY — INTENSITY — ARRANGEMENTS OF CREELS — USES OF ELECTROTYPE. One of the simplest and prettiest experiments that can be made with a single cell is the formation of the '• lead tree, " a famihar object to lovers of scientific pastime. The usual mode ot producing this curious speci- men of metallic vegetation is as follows : — Fill a four or six-ounce phial of pure water to within an inch of the neck, then dissolve in it a teaspoonful of acetate ot lead, shaking it up well to secure perfect intermixture ; then add a few drops of hydrochloric acid, which will stimulate the action. Have a loosely-fitting cork, and bore a hole through the centre ; through this hole pass a piece of zinc wire, long enough to reach within half an inch of the bottom of the phial. Bend the top of the wire over, so that it cannot fall through. Let the whole stand perfectly still for nine or ten hours, and by the end of that time the bottle will bo filled with a beautiful mass of foliage (Fig. 13), all the leaves formed of lead, yet light as eider-down, as will be seen by tho shaking of the liquid. It is as well to cut a notch down one side of the cork, to allow a means of escape for the generated gas. If zinc wire cannot bo readily procured, a narrow strip of sheet zinc will equally answer the purpose. When the experiment is performed by the aid of voltaic electricity, the piece of zinc wire must be suspended as a cathode^ i.e., as tho piece of metal or mould to be deposited upon in the depositing trough. A piece of lead must also be suspended in the solution as an anode, answering to the plate of copper which hangs o[)posite tho mould in tho illustration appended to our second chapter, i)ag(; 1J:3. Tho de[)()siting trough nmst, of course, be filled with the acetate solution just described. Tho moment electrical action is set up, the fine particles of lead will bo seen to fly from the anode to the cathode, in a regular and beautiful shower, clinging round on all sides, and arranging themselves in tho 150 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MAXUFACTURER. form of flakes, or leaves, in symmetrical order. The tree will not be so perfect a specimen as that produced in the bottle bv what we may call /j^ the natural process of growth ; but to see it I ly visibly generating under our very eyes con- '^^ ^ ^ stitutes the great charm of the experiment. It is now time to describe how the elec- tric force may be brought to bear upon an object with varying degrees of volume or concentration. For some purposes, quan- tity is required ; for others, intensity. The difference between these two may be aptly illustrated by the examples of a vessel filled with warm water, and a red-hot poker. The water, though not too warm for a bath, may have diffused throughout it more heat than the red-hot poker contains; but in the latter the heat is concentrated, and therefore mora intense. Where we have metals to deal with that have a fair afiBn- ity for electricity, we shall require merely quantity, in proportion to the magnitude of our operations, and the speed with which we wish them performed. When we have to deal with metals of low affinity, that need a concentrated fire of electricity to make any impression upon them, we shall require intensity. It is the same thing in principle as the management of a park of artillery, by which the fire of many pieces can be directed against a wide surface, or a single- point, according to the object to be gained. This power is obtained m voltaic electricity by connecting a number of cells together, and the whole arrangement is then, very appro- priately, called a battery. A single cell ar- rangement, such as we have dealt with hitherto, is not properly, though it is usu- ally, so called. With batteries of greater or less extent, the ex]3erimenter may, like a general-in- chief, regulate at will the force he brings Kg. 13.-THE LEAD TREE. ^^ T^g^r. Let us suppose that a number (say six) of simple generating cells, such as that described in our EVERY BOY HIS OWX MANUFACTURER. 151 second chapter, have been provided, and that it is desired to obtain from them quantity, without increasing intensity, of electrical current. They must be placed in a row, and all the zinc plates must be coupled together by wires passing from one to the other. The same thing must be done with the copper plates, and then from tlie two end wires we shall get the quantity of six cells and the intensity of one (see fig. 14). /\ /\ 7\ / ^ ^^ fc \Ml Fig. 14. If it is intensity, without quantity, that is required, wo must rcrerso this, and couple the zinc and copper plates together throughout the scries, as shown in fig. 15, and by this means we get the intensity of six pairs of plates, and the quantity of one. If we want to increase both qua: tity and intensity together, the matter is more complicated. We must place our cells in two rows (fig. IG), the zinc plates of the one row, and the copper plates of the other, facing outward, and connect the plates of each row as for intensity. Then connect the copper plate of No. 1 with the copper plate of No. 3 by a wire ; do the like with the zinc jjlates of Nos. 4 and C. Link these wires together by a third wire, «, so as to establish connection between the two rows. Then connect in the same manner the end x>ln.tes of the two rows Fro. i: facing outwards, and the linking wires h and c will bo the positive and negative electrodes to bo carried to the depositing trough. From theso wo obtain tlie quantity of tln-ce cells and tho intensity of three. It will thus be obvious that wiLii a sulTicient lunnber of cells, wo can rcgidato quantity and intensity at will. Thus, from 100 cells wo can cither obtain the quantity of 100 and tho intensity of 3, or the intensity of 100 and the 152 EVEFwY EOY HIS OWX MANUFACTURER. quantity of 1, or the quantity of 50 and the intensity of 50, or any inter- mediate degree between the tu'o extremes. Our friends will soon find out, in the pursuit of scientific recreation, bow useful is this power of controlling the force we are dealing with. They will soon discover, in feeling their way (as we hope they will do), to further investigation of the subject than can properly be treated in these papers, a great deal about the mysterious relationship that exists between electricity and the great family of metals and alloys ; how in some the impulses of kinship are strong, and how in others it requires a powerful effort to reach the hidden sources of sympathy. For instance, the useful and beautiful alloy, brass, if attacked in the ordinary way, would be impregnable to electrical assault ; but when a converging fire is directed against it from a battery of many cells, it is forced to succumb. It will add a little interest to our pastime to know, that each successive gtep of discovery has been fraught with consequences the most important Fig. 16. and stupendous to the world of commerce and the industrial arts. A page could be filled with the mere list of commodities that have found their w^ay into the market, adding to the conveniences of man, and finding employment for thousands of busy hands ; new sources of wealth, which owe their origin to the labors of scientific investigators in this new and fertile field. Among them may be mentioned the copying of engraved wood-blocks, by which means any number of impressions may be taken, the original woodcut remaining intact, and preserving its sharpness to the last ; the copying of set-up types instead of stereotyping — a process largely practiced in this country, and by means of which the page you iiow read is printed ; the coating of iron and steel goods with various EVERY BOY HIS OWN MANrFACTUKER. 153 /netals to protect tbem from rust, etc., etc. Many tons of brass-headed nails — i.e., heads coated vrith brass — are produced annually by this process, superseding the old and expensive method of casting them on. Millions of steel pens are rendered practically safe from corrosion from ink or climate by being coated with brass, and upon that a thin wash of gold, which then appears with a surface of brilhant polish, and does not add to the cost more than ten cents a gross. The parts of fire-arms which sufier most from exposure to the weather, or from the corrosion of the discharge, can be eflectually protected by a durable coating of metallic nickel, which looks as well as silver, and will wear ten times as long. Many specimens were shown in the Vienna Exhibition. For involved and elaborate battery operations, such as we have yet to introduce our readers to, it will be desirable to set up a more perfect ap- paratus than the home-made one hitherto described. When interest in the pursuit is once fairly awakened, the expense of a complete set of generating cells and depositing vat, with proper binding screws and sus- pending rods, will not be considered. The cost is not great. It would be invidious to recommend any particular dealer in such articles, and it is not necessary. Long before the student has reached the stage where he feels the necessity for perfect tools, he will have found out for himself the best places whence to procure them. CHAPTER V. ELASTIC ilOULDS — COPYING BUSTS OR STATUETTES — TO PREPATvE TEE MOULD. Having practiced and repracticed the various simple forms of the clec- trotyper's art, such as have been described, until a perfect mastery has been acquired over the materials and conditions of success, the learner may venture to indulge himself with a plunge into its more recondite mysteries and difficulties. We will suppose that he has been content so far to take copies of coins, medals, or casts in hasso-rcleiro, and has not aspired to the dignity of being a producer of entire figures, busts, or works in detached relief, such as Cellini wrought with such loving fingers in the palmy days of art. But it is now time for him to take a higher fiight, and we are quite ready to introduce him, hoping that he has by this time ac- quired the requisite skill and confidence, into the inner and more inter- esting arcana of this beautiful pursuit. It must be clear that the moulds we have been using will only do for models that will leave, to use the casting pattern maker's technical phrase. Unless all the parts that are in relief slope gradually upwards fron^ the flat, either the mould or the cast will bo broken in coming away. In other words, there must be no undercuttings in the denign. r,ut 154 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MATS^tTFACTtlKEE. copies are produced by electro-deposition^ of works so involved and so intricate in their undevcuttings^ that no combinations of moulds could be contrived to leave them with any hope of bringing out a passable copy. How then are such works produced ? Ah, dear reader, that was for a long time a most impenetrable puzzle and secret, but now it is common property^ and quite at your service. Invention's universal mother, Necessity, no doubt prompted the idea, that since the cast was inflexible, the matrix must be yielding and elas- tic. The problem then was to find a material that should take, and retain, all the sharp lines and impressions of the work to be copied, and yet be fio good-humored as to allow itself to be stretched, pulled about, and distorted in every possible way, always going back faithfully to the shape it took from the model. This material was at last found in some very simple substances, which are within the easy reach of every amateur. The material for an elastic mould can be compounded in the following simple way : — Take common glue, and let it soak in cold water for some hours. It will take up a quantity of water, and more must be supplied when necessary. It wiU then be like a soft jelly, yielding to the fingers, but not sticking to them. Then pour treacle upon it, working and kneading with the fingers or any convenient instrument, until the whole is of the consistency of a thick glutinous liquid. This is the unpromising- looking stuff with which we can take oft' the form and feature of the most elaborate carving that ever left an artist's chisel, or the daintiest statuette from a sculptor's atelier. It must be poured upon the object to be copied, which, if in the nature of a medallion or other work in aJto-relievo, must be fenced round in the manner formerly described (page 13S). Press the soft matter carefully into all the hollows, draining off the moisture which will squeeze out, until you feel sure that every part of the impression is well filled up, and then let a good body of the material lie on the top to settle down. After a few hours' exposure to the air, it will harden some- what, but now and again, if necessary, the moisture must be carefully drained from it. It will be easier to tell by the feel when it will be safe to pull it away ; the veriest tyro will not be likely to make a mistake, unless his impatience gets the better of his judgment. A sharp snatch will do It, but it is better to remove the fencing, and pull it away from the sides gradually, humoring it a little, as the complexities of the model may seem to require. The eminent electrician and chemist, Mr. George Gore, F. E. S., recommends the following mode of preparing the elastic composition: — Break the glue in small pieces, and soak it till quite soft. Then drain it, and heat it in a common glue-pot with the treacle, one part treacle to four of glue, to nearly the boiling point, stirring it well to ensure thorough mixture of the two substances. By the way, the glue will give some EVERT BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTURER. 155 little trouble in the breaking, if you are not up to the carpenter's dodge for preventing it. Lay the cakes of glue between the folds of stiff brown paper, and hammer away at the paper ; elsewise, the brittle substance will fly about in all directions, and may be attack the face and eyes of the incautious operator. If we wish to get a copy of a plaster bust or statuette, we must proceed as follows: — Partly fill the hollow interior of the figure with sand, to make it heavy, and prevent its rising in the liquid ; then place it, base downwards, in an earthenware vessel, large enough, when filled with the liquid, to immerse it well all over. A vessel tapering towards the bottom is best, because of the composition leaving it when set — precisely as jelly turns out best from a tapered mould. The vessel should be well oiled in- side to facilitate this operation. The composition must be thin enough to flow ; Mr. Gore recommends that it be poured in hot, and also that the vessel be moved about a little, and the figure gently tapped during the pouring, to allow any air bubbles to escape. Cover the figure a few inches overhead, and then let all stand in a steady place to set, which will be ia from twelve to twenty hours, according to bulk. Then you will find that the mould, with the figure embedded in it, can without much difficulty be shaken out of the vessel, as a cook would turn out a pudding. The figure, if of plaster, must be saturated with oil (see page 138 for method), to prevent the melted composition adhering to it. "^.Old George III was mystified as to how the apple got into the dumphng. Our mystery is, not how the figure got into the mould, but how to get it out again. Nothing more easy, with a little adroit manipu- lation. We will suppose that a mark has been made on the base of the figure, by which it may be known which is the front and which is the back. Take a sharp knife, and slit up the mould right at the back of the figure, one clean and straight incision, beginning at the base and ex- tending upwards to the top of the mould, above the head- The mould will now open readily, by inserting the fingers on each side of the slit. Open it with care, and without unnecessary violence, extending the cut if requisite, and let some other hand take the figure out deftly while you hold the walls of the mould asunder .wide enough to let it pass. (See illustration, fig. 17.) The mould will now spring back again, and should return, if properly set before you operate upon it, so completely to its original shape, that the seam of the cut shall bo perfectly invisible to tho eye, and leave* no nuirk upon the ligurc you deposit. There is considerable difficulty in coating a mould of this description with the all-essential conducting material, as you will readily conceive. But wo are now arrived at that stage of our pursuit wlien nicety ot handling becomes a sine qua non, and we must not be frightened at diffi- culties. To become an expert and successful depositor wo must labor 156 EVEEY BOY HIS OWN MANUFACTUKBB. EVEEY BOY HIS OVX MAXUFACTUEEE. 157 and acquire skill of hand, and be prepared to exercise the patience of a scientific devotee. The most scrupulous attention must be paid to minute points of detail, or otherwise time and trouble will be alike thrown away. In the first chapter, page 136, we gave some rough-and-ready instructions for black-leading the mould, which were all very well for a beginner who might be supposed to be anxious to get on; but he is de- veloping into an artist now, and must be much more elaborate in his preparations. We ask the reader to carefully study the following instruc- tions for prepariug moulds ; and shall begin with the simplest, a plain single-faced mould of a coin or medal. Paste a strip of paper round the edge of the mould ; take the best pow- dered black-lead you can get, and apply the same with a camel-hair brush, dry J to the face of the mould, breathing on it now and then, and blowing off the surplus. Proceed till the face is perfectly clean and bright. Then remove the paper, which has kept the black-lead within bounds, and will ensure you a deposit with a clean edge. Never mind the time it has taken — it will be well repaid. Elastic moulds require a difi'ereut treatment. If you can get at all the undercuttings, brushing them over with black-lead, or with the very best copper bronze, will do ; but the best way is to coat them with a series of solutions— viz., phosphorus, silver, and gold solutions, prepared according to the following recipe, given by Mr. Gore in his valuable work on '^ Electro-Deposition " : ^^ Phosphorus Solution. — To make nearly three ounces, melt sixty-four gi*ains of beeswax or tallow ; then dissolve eight grains of india-rubber cut up very small, in 160 grains of bisulphide of carbon, and when it is dissolved add to it very carefully (as it is highly inflammable) the melted wax, and shake the mixture thoroughly ; then dissolve sixty-four grains of phosphorus in 960 grains (about two and a quarter ounces) of»bisulphido- of carbon, and add to it eighty grains of spirits of turpentine, and sixty- four grains of asphalte in fine powder ; when dissolved, add this solution to the previous one of india-rubber and wax, and thoroughly mix them by shaking. *' Silver Solution. — To make twenty ounces (one pint) : dissolve about eighteen or nineteen grains of pure silver in twenty or twenty-five grains of the strongest nitric acid, and then dilute it to the required volume witli distilled water. ^' Gold Solutio7i. — To make twenty ounces : dissolve about five or six grains of pure gold in about twenty or twenty-five grains of a hot niixturo of one measure of nitric acid and two or three mcasun^s of hydrochloric acid, and when dissolved, dilute the solution with twenty ounces of di.s- tilled water." The mould may be rinsed with the first solution, or coated with it in lo8 EVERT BOY HIS OWX MANUEACTFREE. any effective aud convenient way, and must afterwards be drained care- fully, and allowed to stand till perfectly dry. Then coat with the silver solution in the same way, till it acquires a black metallic lustre. Rinse with distilled water, and apply the gold solution in the same manner, which will give it a yellowish complexion. After another rinsing it is ready for use. Of course the student will know how to adapt the pro- portions given in the foregoing recipe to the quantity of the various solutions he may require to make. Another absolutely necessary preliminary is to affix guiding, wires in different parts of the mould, especially in the deep hollows, to tempt the electri- cally charged particles in this direction. No even deposit can be hoped for without these. It would be a pity, after all the trouble and expense incurred in producing a copy of a statuette or other work of art, to find daylight shining through it in some conspicuous place, or to feel some prominent fold doub- ling up under the slightest pressure for want of substance. For a large mould you must have a stout wire for a main conductor, and twist ti«ghtly round it a number ot short pieces of fine wire, the fine ends of which must be bent into all the hollows, and either stuck Tig. 18.— tke* cttt T^ A\ m '^ lightly and cleanly into the mould, or at least touch the parts required. There must be, in fact, a complete system of arteries to promote the circulation of the electric fluid into all parts of the anatomy of your figure. A glance at the accompa- nying illustration (Fig. 18), will convey better than a page of description, how this should be done. It will be well to have these wires all in position before coating the mould with the solution, because you will then have a conducting surface all alike, the wires being coated as well as the ETEPwT BOY HIS O^^TS MAXUFACTTEEK. 159 mould. Even the simplest mould, such as that shown in our first chapter, page 135, will be the better for having a fine guiding wire passed round the rim of the impression, and sunk into it. It is scarcely necessary to say that all the guiding wires must be in perfect contact with the main con- ducting wire, so as to establish a complete sympathy between all parts of your electric system. In the next chapter we shall ofier to the incipient depositor an alter- native way, by which to obtain a copy of the statuette or other model — a more roundabout, but perhaps a more certain process. CHAPTER YI. THE SOLUBLE MOULD — A BETTER PLAX — A CAST IX PLASTER — A CAST IX WAX — TO PREPARE THE FIGURE — THE COPPER MOULD — DIVIDED MOULDS. The elastic mould described in our last chapter being made of a mate- rial soluble in water, has this great disadvantage, that if the copper de- posit be not formed upon it quickly, all the fine features of the impression will be blurred away while it is soaking in the sulphate solution. The young electrician might be tempted to hasten the process of deposition, by the means now at his command, viz., increasing the intensity of his battery power, but such a course would be on no account advisable. We have already stated that a deposit too quickly formed would very likely be no better than an agglomeration of grains of metallic sand ; and we have now, more than ever, need of a good, hard, malleable deposit to form the shell of our figure. Therefore we should advise all our friends to give themselves a little trouble, and pursue the following method, which is the alternative one we promised at the conclusion of the last paper. Bind up the closed mould with oiled brown paper, tied with tape or string. It will be useful also to place a few pieces of thin wood round it, under the string, to serve as props, and to enable you the more readily to move it about. Then cast a figure in it, in wax or plaster of Paris, according as the subject is large or small. For a largo figure, plaster of Paris will be preferable on the score of economy ; but wax makes tho best casting, and should always be used for small objects. We subjoin precise directions for both. To make a Cast in Plaster. — Procure tho finest plaster of Paris— sohl in powder, at any painters, very cheap. Into a basin of sufiicient capacity pour as much water as would, in your judgment, fill the cavity of your mould. Then take your packet of powder, and with one hand shako or sprinkle it into tho water, very gradually, while with tho other hand you stir up tho mixture till it is throughout of tho consistency of thick cream. It is now ready for use, and should bo used without delay. 160 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MAXUFACTUKEE. Have your mould ready, and hold it iu a leaning direction while yon pour in the liquid, rolling or swilling it round as you do so. The principal thing to guard against is the retention of air bubbles in the cast: you must endeavor to let every i)article of air escape as you are pouring, before the plaster has time to set. Therefore, pour steadily but gently, and con- tinually roll the mould about — a little practice will enable j'ou to do it cleverly. Also, keep tapping or shaking the mould lightly, to ensure the plaster getting into all the crevices. When the cavity is quite full, let all stand till the plaster has set round the outside well, it being still liquid in the middle. You can pour this out now, and lighten your figure by making it hollow, as are the plaster figures you buy from an image vender. After a little while, you will be able to make your figures as light as his, as you get to know by practice the exact moment when the plaster is hard enough to form a good, sound shell. Let it stand in the mould for some hours after, to make sure, and then, having untied your band- ages, let some careful hand take out the cast, while you hold the mould open as before. If you are only moderately neat-handed and careful, the elastic mould will serve to take many casts from, in this way. The figure must be well dried before a fire, or in a moderate oven, before you do anything further with it. To make a Cast in Wax. — Melt white wax and resin, equal parts, in a ladle over the fire, adding a little suet, or, what is better, deer's fat, to the mixture. When all are well melted and mingled together, add a small quantity of white lead, and stir it well in. The whole should be allowed to set, and be re-melted two or three times, before being used for casting, in order to ensure that all the in- gredients are thoroughly blended together. The resin is wanted to harden the material, and make it retain a sharp impression, while the lead plays an important part in two ways : — it binds the other substances together, and prevents the cast from cracking while it sets ; and it also adds weight, which is useful when the figure comes to hang in the copper solution. You will see the importance, therefore, of being very careful with the mixing. Let the liquid boil well over the fire, and stir it about as long as there is the slightest effervescence. When it appears to be sufficiently well prepared, melt it again for the last time, and allow it to stand till it just begins to set, when pour it immediately into the mould, in the same manner, and with the same precautions as described for plaster. In this case, as the last, it is only practice that will enable you to judge precisely the moment for the ope- ration ; but you will soon acquire dexterity, if you are in earnest. If you pour in the wax too hot, you will destroy your mould ; if too cool, it will not take a good impression. Let it have plenty of time to set — seven EVEur BOY HIS c^rx ma2{ufactcrer. 164 riG. ID.— ABA ^r AWAKKXIXG. 162 EVERY BOY HIS OWX MA2fUFACTURER. or eight hours iu a cool place — then open the mould, and remove the figure, as before. Of course you vill apprehend that these figures are not your depositing moulds, but only the objects from which moulds can be made. The method we recommend is that you should first deposit upon them, and that the deposits you obtain should serve as the matrices for future de- posits. We shall endeavor to make It clear to you how this can be done, but we must wam you that in some stages it will be a delicate and difii- cult operation* The next process is, however, easy. Cover the figure well with dry black-lead, in the manner formerly described, and fix conducting wires to it in several places^ to make sure of an even deposit all over the sur- face. You will find that the copper will have a tendency to gr6w on the promment narts, and leave the hollows bare, unless you prevent it by the artful arrangement of your guiding wires. The best way will be to form a sort of sling, or cage of wires, the ends hooking under the hollows of your figure^ in x)arts where a slight blemish will not be of much conse- quence cfig. 19). The wires need not enter; it will be sufficient if they are .merely m contact ; but you must be sure that every part of the sur- face has been made conducting with the black-lead. Paint over again the parts where the wires touch, also a small portion of the ends of the wires. You must allow this to«receive such a copper coating as will suffice to make a shell of sufficient rigidity to bear being handled, after the figure has been dissolved out of it. Yet it must not be too thick, for reasons which will hereafter appear. If it is the thickness of ordinary brown paper it will do. You will see the great importance of having an even deposit. If the copper seems to be attaching itself to some places and neglecting others, shift the position of your wires, or add others, twisting them round those which appear to be the best conductors. It will sometimes be quite sufficient to shift the position of the figure in the solution, or to turn it round. Careful watching, and readiness to see mischief, and to repair it with the dexterity which practice alone can give, will enable you to accomplish with perfect certainty this important stage of your work. When you have got the copper mould complete and sound, there are two things you may do with it. You may deposit a second figure within it, and destroy it ; or you may make it into a permanent mould, and de- posit any number of figures within it. If you decide to be contented with producing one object (much the safest decision for a beginner), the first thing you have to do is to get rid of the interior figure. Nip off the ends of your wires (this is better than pulling them away, as that is apt to tear the shell), and boil in a cauldron for some hours, changing EVEnY EOT niS OWN MAXrFACTUEEF.. 163 the water several times. This will melt out tbc wax, or dissolve the plaster, as the case may be. For a tolerably simple figure iu alto relievo^ such as fig. 20, when you can pretty well see into and reach all the cavi- ties from the back, this will be sufficient ; but for a figure like the sub- ject of our illustration fig. 19, '' Adam Awakening,'' it will be absolutely necessary to cut it into at least three or four pieces. We would not advise you, however, to begin with a complicated work like this, which we have only introduced to show more perfectly the method of slinging, etc. Should it be a figure the interior of which is not easily accessible in every part, you must divide it, for remember you have something else to do besides clearing it from the model, and that is, to coat it with black-lead; not now for conductivity, for the whole surface is eminently con- ducting, but to prevent your deposit from adher- ing to it ; in other words, plating it. You will per- haps be obliged to ob- tain the assistance of some practiced hand for this ; but if you are bold enough to essay the ope- ration yourself, get some- body to hold the figure firmly while you divide it w ith a fine saw in the line that you think will best answer your purpose ; then get out the wax or plaster in the manner described, and in the case of plaster, make all sure by rinsing the parts with a pretty strong wash of dilute nitric acid. Well dry the shells, and coat all the interior nicely with black-lerKl, and then, having arranged your arterial system of wires, close the parts again accurately at the cut, bind them tightly together with wire, immerse in the depositing solution, and connect with your battery, and leave Nature and Electricity to do the rest. The mould must remain in the solution till a good thick deposit has had time to form, when you will take it out, remove tlio binding wires, and, beginning at the separation, peel off the thin copper covering till the figure is left bare. Now is the critical moment. It will be very par- donable if you are nervous about the result of all vour care and trouble. i'lG. 1.1J. 164 EVEllY BOY niS OW^- MAXUFACTUKEPw. If the figure comes out perfect and clean, the exultation of success will well repay all the pains you have bestowed. If, on the other hand, there should be an ugly gap here and there, or failure in any form disappoint your hopes, do not be discouraged, but endeavor to fathom the cause; and, deriving valuable lessons therefrom, try again and again, until every difficulty is overcome. Should you be desirous of retaining your mould as a permanent matrix for further operations, you must back it up, before removing the figure inside, with something that will make it solid. Wash over the outside with chloride of zinc, and then dip it several times in a bath of melted tin and lead. The alloy will adhere to the copper, and you must repeat the process untir you think it is strengthened enough. It must then be divided with the saw iiito as many pieces, and in such a way, as will enable its kernel; the figure, to come away without damaging any of its undercut parts. This will be exceedingly difficult with a cordplicated figure, but it is not impossible. Allthe plaster figures that we see exposed for sale, have been cast in moulds of many pieces joined together in the way we indicate. It is a very ingenious craft to fabricate these moulds, and not by any means to be mastered by the amateur at his first essay, but an amateur of the right spirit will not begin by attempting the highest walks of his art. Ton will not commence with such as Fig. 19, but Fig. 20 will be quite within your capacity. Some electrotypers prefer to deposit on the separate pieces of the mould, and afterwards to join the parts of the figure by soldering. This is, indeed, most usually the method adopted at all the large estab- lishments, where such work is professionally carried on. It has the great advantage of enabling the operator to see how the deposit is forming, and to regulate it when it is going wrong. But to join a figure neatly together, and ^'repair'' the junctures so that no blemish will be visible, requires the hand of a skilled artificer. The general advantages of this alternative method are these : — 'You can easily repair your wax or plaster model, if it should be faulty, and make it like the original •. you can depend more certainly upon a good deposit on account of the better conductivity of the material ; you can better watch the process at every stage. We conclude with calling your attention to the following Precautions. — Paint or wash over the interior surface of your elastic mould with sweet-oil before casting in it the wax or plaster figure. Sat- urate your plaster figure with melted wax before exposing it to the acid of the copper solution. File off the "' burr" left by the saw on the inside of the cuts in your copper shell; otherwise it will make a very ugly mark on the deposit. EVERY BOY HIS OTVX MAX'UFACTUEER. 165 Do DOt forget to stop off tke conductivity of your copper mould on the outside with varnish, or the deposit will run all over it. Any kind of resinous varnish will do. Have patience; and be careful. CHAPTER VII. ELECTRO DEPOSITS FROM XATURAL OBJECTS. Among other useful adjuncts to this art, we would advise the young electrotyper to provide himself with a jeweler's blow-pipe and pair of shears. The latter will be useful for nipping ofif the ends of connecting wires, and clipping the edges of his work into proper form ; the former will aid him in hacking up the thin copper shell of his deposit with solder, so as to make it more solid for mounting. Suppose a copy of a coin or medal has been obtained, it should be treated in the following way : — Wash over the reverse side with muriatic acid, in which a small portion of zinc has been dissolved ; then cut up pewter solder into small pieces, and lay them over the hollow surface. Place the medal, face downwards, on a piece of charcoal, and with the blow-pipe direct the flame of a lamp over the solder until it has run evenly into every part. You may now completely fill up the hollow with lead, and it will adhere to the solder. We shall conclude this series by initiating the reader into a very beau- tiful and fascinating branch of the art — viz., obtaining electro deposits from natural objects. Of all the available objects in the animal kingdom, perhaps the easiest to begin with is a fish. Lay him out nicely, and spread out his fins and tail, so as to make him look as natural as possible, then brush him over lightly with oil. Have some plaster of Paris mixed into the consistency of thick cream, and pour it on to a plato which has been well greased. Let it stand till it just begins to set into a paste, then lay the fish upon it on its side, pressing it gently down till it is half-way embedded. In a few minutes the plaster will have hardened sufficiently to allow you to pick out the fish from his bed, when you should find a perfect print of his profile in the place where he has lain. The edges of the mould nuist also be ficra[)cd and smoothed with a knife, where requisite, in order to make an even bed for the other half Avhich has yet to be cast. When this is done, and the plaster is (|uito firm, bore three or four shallow conical holes in the margin with the point of a knife, or anything, say two above the fish's back, and two underneath him ; then lay the lish carefiilly in his place again, and brush over the top half with oil a second time, to make all sure, and the j)laster with thin soai)Suds also, using a very soft brush. Have some licjuid plaster ready, and ])onr it. quickly over fisli jind mould togolhcr, not all in one place, but thinly and evenly all over, especially taking earn that 166 EVERY BOY HIS OTTX MAXUFACTUEEK. tbc holes you have made are well filled up. It will require both dex- terity aud promptitude to do it well, as the plaster soon sets, and if you are not quick in going over the ground the second time, it will have be- come too hard to unite. It will be well to have an assistant standing by with a feather or a soft brush, in case any air-bubbles make their ap- pearance. If they do, he must instantly dissipate them, or they may make ugly tumors on the mould. Get a good body of plaster on, to make a solid mould, then let it rest till it is hard enough to lift up from the lower half, when the fish may be extracted again. Tour upper mould will have conical projections upon it, to fit the holes you have bored, and these will ensure its getting into the same position in which you cast it, each time it is put together. The moulds should be dried well — baked a little, even— before you use them^ and then, as before dkected, saturated with melted wax, dried and treated with plumbago, to conduct the deposit. The two halves of the fish should be deposited separately, and the surest way of attaching the conducting wires is as follows : — Drill a dozen or so of small holes round the outhne of the fish, on the flat part of the mould which surrounds it, as close as is practicable. In each of these insert a short piece of copper wire, and gather the ends together in a bunch, so as to tighten the wires in the holes sufficiently to bear the mould up, but not so much as to break the edges down into the print of the fish. These gathered ends may be attached to the main conducting wire, and all black-leaded well, at the junction especially, and round the holes. The main wire may extend into the centre of the fish's body, and a little hole may be drilled in the print to receive it, making, of course, a slight defect, which will afterwards have to be re- paired. In addition, pieces of thin wire may be twisted round the main or diverging conductors, and thin disengaged ends made to touch the print in various places, so that the deposit maV be attracted all over it, and a good shell be quickly formed. When the two halves of the fish have been thus obtained, the superfluous copper must be sheared ofif, and the edges neatly filed, so that a good joint may be made, and the always useful blow-pipe must then be called into requisition, to unite them with solder into a complete and apparently solid copy of the origi- nal. For most of the forms in Nature, however, an elastic mould will be the best. If the object can be suspended in a vessel while the elastic com- position is run round it, and if it be of such a nature as not to be liable to distortion while so doing, that will be the readiest way. It can then be treated in the same way precisely as that previously described for a plaster figure. But most natural substances require dainty handling and careful adjustment, therefore greater precautions are necessary, in order to preserve form. EVEKT BOY HIS OWX MA^fUFACTURER. ler Suppose you wanted to obtain a copy of a bird, with its wings out- spread, a group of dead game, etc., it would be difficult to retain them B in the position you desire without actually holding them. Tlio writer has found the following device answer very well for such a i)uri>ose : — X68 3!:yeky eoy nis own manufacturer. Take an earthenware vessel vitli a hole in the bottom — a common fiower- "potf for instance — and plug up the hole with, a cork, a i)iece of wood, or anything that can be easily removed. Hold the bird or other object with the lingers, as well as you can, in the position you wish to copy it, inside the vessel. Let an assistant pour down from above upon it a rain of very fine dry sand, which will run into all the crevices, and allow you to with- draw the fingers gradually as the lower parts of the figure become sup- ported by the sand. When it is buried, all but the head or so, withdraw the fingers altogether, and gently shake the sand down into a more solid mass. If you have done it cleverly, the object will be embedded in the sand in the exact position you require ; the problem is to keep it so. Level the sand by shaking or moderately pressing down, and begin to operate upon the small part of the object which is still left exposed. Brush it well over with oil to begin . with ; then bend a piece of thin sheet-iron, or anything of that sort, into a cylinder, large enough, in your judgment, to surround the object in its widest part, and leave plenty of room to spare. It may be tied round with thread or wire, to keep it in form. Stick this upright in the sand, having first greased the inside thoroughly. Pour into it, upon the head of your specimen, sufficient oi the melted elastic composition to cover the head, and a little more. Let it have plenty of time to set, then remove the cylinder (if it will not easily lift off, it must be untied), and leave the column of composition standing. Now the plug must be withdrawn from the bottom of the vessel, and a. little of the sand allowed to run out so as to leave exposed ■a little more of the specimen, below the head, which is enclosed in the column of composition. Brush off every particle of sand that has ad- hered, treat with oil as before, replace the cylinder, and put all together in an oven, till the composition melts again, and runs down to enclose the part you have just left bare. Pour a httle more composition on the top, so as still to keep the head covered, and let it set again. Repeat this process till it will be safe to take the specimen out of the sand en- tirely, all being enclosed but the lower parts, which no longer require support. Then the whole afi"air may be turned upside down, the cylin- der again placed over the composition, and a last pouring will effectually enclose the whole figure, like a fly in amber. Getting the specimen out of the mould will often be found as difficult and tedious a process as getting^ it in. We can give no general directions as to a process which must necessarily vary with almost every article. We can only refer our readers to the previous instruction about removing plaster figures, arid-^=advise them to exercise their own ingenuity in the matter. The mould must be opened in several directions to suit some figures. For such purposes as these we would recommend that the lightest colored and best Russian glue be used, and mixed with the palest EVEar BOV HLS OWN MANUFACTL-PvER. 169 treacle that can be procured ; the composition will then be transparent enough to give great assistance to the artist in discovering the position of his figure. Complicated figures will require to be deposited in parts, and the mould may be separated with that view. The same instructions will apply here as those given for the copying of plaster figures ; you may either deposit ui the mould direct, or follow the alternative process de- scribed in the last chapter, according to circumstances. Beautiful vegetable forms may be copied by a simpler method than this. For instance, a fern leaf may be taken, and laid face upwards upon a bed of soft plaster, not liquid enough to immerse it, but just suffi- ciently so to yield to its pressure, and allow it to become slightly em- bedded. Wlien the plaster is set, level and smoothen it by scraping with a sharp knife, place a fencing of cardboard or sheet -metal round the leaf, and pour upon it the wax composition formerly described, having first brushed or dusted the surface with fine black-lead. When this is set, it can be easily lifted ofi", and you will have a perfect wax mould of the face of the leaf, ia which you can deposit in the ordinary way. The metallic, copy can be bent or twisted about in any graceful form, and you may build up a plant or a group of leaves with a little taste, and the use of the soldering tools, which will form a very beautiful ornament for a sideboard. Part l.^/2fr/-2>'z^ Price 25 Cts. EVERY BOY Own CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN 'Qlas3 ^Plowing. WITH FULL DIRECTIONS HOW TO MAKE SteaiTi Engines, Locomotive Engines, Electric Telegraphs, Steam Boats, Dioramas, Clocks, Brackets, Telescopes, Etc., Etc. W^ot't^iii.Y ^\^^ st iIAteD. N K ^v \' (» K K : H A 1' r Y HOIKS (• () .M 1' .\ .N Y Nf>. 1 CnvMiHu-s Street. WHH n©M»AY ©WB»^®^ A COLLECTION OF I S T C) R I K S , GJ- A M E S A IST O A M U S K M E N T S I For W^iiitei* Eveningrs. CO]SrXEjS^TS. THE EDITOR'S CHRISTMAS GREETING. (Illustrated.) FOUND IN A MUNIMENT CHEST. By the author of ''Lady Audley's Secret." THE DEATH'S-HEAD CLUB. A Legend of Savannah. CAROL. A MILLION A MINUTE. CARD TRICKS. (Five Illustrations. ) MODERN POPULAR CONJURING. '^ GAMES FOR THE LITTLE ONES. BLUE BEARD TABLEAU. (Three Illustrations.) AN ACTING DRAMA. THE BOOMERANG. (Illustrated. ) AMUSING EXPERIMENTS. THE MISTERY OF THE FLOATING HEAD. (Two Illustrations.) BOBBING AROUND ; or, The Gam'e of Families. LOST AND FOUND IN THE SNOW. PUZZLES, ENIGMAS, CHARADES. CONUNDRUMS, etc., etc. (Twenty-four illustrations. THE CHRISTMAS TREE. (Illustrated.) Etc., etc., etc. Complete in One Volume, Paper Covers. Price 10 Cents. BEAR IN MIND That orders will be received for any Books, Maga2dnes, Games, etc., etc., issued or for sale by any respectable house in the United States, at the regular prices. All books, etc. , that can be sent by mail will be'sent free of postage, and all articles that are too bulky or weighty for the mail will be sent by express, the freight to be paid by the party sending the order. All orders will be filled and the goods forwarded within twenty-four hours after the receipt of the order, except in cases where the articles wanted are not to be had in this city. We also wish to say a word to our customers about goods sent by mail. Having had an ex- perience of many years, we think we understand this business. We are very particularin our man- ner of attending to it, sending all packages well wrapped, securely sealed "and plainly addressed. One would think that all goods ordered would reach their destination without trouble . So tliev would, if our customers were as careful to attend properly to their part of the business as ice are to attend to ours. In ordering goods it is necessary to make a point of three things. First: to write plainly. Second : to give the name of the article w^anted, and Thibd : to write out your full address, name, town, county and State. It is astonishing how many persons are careless about these things. Many write so badly that, with all our long experience, it is almost impossible to make out their meaning. Quite often a man words his order in this style : " Please send me your books by return mail." Now how are we to know what he wants out of the scores of books we ha^-e for sale .' Sometimes a man forgets to sign his name, and very often people omit their town, State, ard the annoying part is, that when these persons fail to receive their order they blame as. John Smith, for instance, says "Send these books to Salem without delay." Now^ there are twenty-three Post of- fices in the United States by that name. How are we to know which particular Salem is John Smith's home ? We can do nothing but wait for him to write again, which he does in a few days, enquiring "why his books are not come," and makes the same omission. Of course John Smith does not get either his books or an answer to his letter, finds fault with us in consequence, for his own negligence, and accuses us of being swindlers. We must remind our customers again that to insure the speedy and safe delivery of their orders, it is absolutely necessary that they write plainly, and never forget to give the name of the article wanted, their own name, and that of their Post Office, County and State. THE BOOK OF WONDERS, MYSTERIES AXD DISCLOSURES ; A Complete Hand-book of I'seful luroriuation ; n? full and explicit directions for making Hair Oils, E,estoratives, Hair Dyes, Perfumery, Toilet Articles, Cosme- if all kinds, Plain and Fancy Soaps, Tooth Powders, Flavoring Extracts and Essences, Patent Medicines, Inks of kinds, Beverages for Families, Fairs and Pic-Xics, Remedies against all kinds of Vermin, and a large number of • es for the manufacture of valuable articles of every day use, which can be disposed of at a good profit, making '•■ction of recipes of great value to M:inufacturers, Storekeepers, Druggists, Peddlers and Families generally. is book shows how the homely may be made handsome and the ignorant wise. It explains in a distinct manner, rehensible to all, how the personal appearance of everybody, favored or otherwise by nature, can be made niing, fascinating and the envy of the public. It gives also plans by which thousands of the old and young of -exes can find employment and gain riches. It is a compendium of the most useful information ever collected :iier for the benefit of the married and single ; showing how distresses of every character (physical and mental) •,• he prevented, or (if existing), be obliterated, and is replete with wisdom and entertainment for all. Among the itents of this valuable work may be found The Hunter's Secret. Foxes, Mink, Musk Rats, Beavers, How to Catcli &■•. How to make the ceiebi-ated BEAVER MEDICINE. Chinese art of Catching Fish alive, \-c. The Liquor Dealer's Guide, Tells how to make all kinds of I.iciuors at very little expense, and HOW TO MAKE THE CELEBRATED WESTERN CIDER, without apples or any other fruit. The Ladies' G-uide to Beauty, Tell- ing how Ladies can become and remain beautiful. Hntv to make ail kinds of Rouges, Powders, Pastes, Cologm-s, Salts, Oils, &:c. ; besides other information of much value to Ladies. G-amblers' Tricks Explained ; also, of Pe- ter Funks, Pickpockets, Pocket-Book Droppers, &c. The Secret of Horse Taming ; Also, how to make Liniments, Lotions, ierj andlnvigorators. To (^ure Baldness. To make the Hair Soft and Glossy. To make Poudre Subtile fur Remov- ing the Hair. To make Chinese Depilatory for Remov- ing Superfluous Hair. To make Instantaneous Hair Dye. Directions for Dy«'inc: the Hair. To make the celebrated GRAHAM ONCjUENT, for forcing the Whiskers and Mustache to grow in six weeks. To make the Hair Curl, Ac, ic, iic. Curious Facts about "Water. Sleep — Its Importance. Business Rules for Young Men. How to Tell a Lady: ^i^^^« f>f <''l>'ir- acter. etc. Put a pin here.' Marrying for ShoT^. Good swains and lovers. Signs of Love. Everybody should read these enumerations of the signs of the "tender pas- sion. 'i Things "Worth Knowing. This depart- ment contains over 400 Recipes, t. lling how to make Ayer's Cheny Pectoral, Brandieth's Pills, Certain Cure for Drunkenness, Essences, Extracts, &c. Face Paints, Go.lfiey's Cordial, Inks of all kinds, &c. Ointments of all kinds, Pomades of all kinds. Rev. A. Wilson's Great Remedy for Consumption, Asthma, Bronchitis, &c. Salvos of all kinds. Soaps of all kinds, Swaim's Vermifuge. How to Transfer Engravings to Plaster Cuss. 11 ow to Transfer Ensravings, Photo- graphs, Lithographs, AVood Cuts, "Writing, in fact anythinsr, to Giass. How to Clean Kid Gloves. To make Imitation Gold i.nd Silver. To make Artificial Honey. How to make Imitation Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, Topaz and other Precious Stones. The Art of Potchi(tmoui explained, «S:c. Superstitions ; or Signs, Wonders and To- kens. Their signification and meaning. BashfulneSS. its Causes. Some never Bashful. Prevention and Cure. An example. The way not to do it. Recipes for making Es.seuccs. Extracts, Face Paints, Inks, Ointments, Pomades, Salves, Soaps, A:c. Traps and Trapping. Being practical and reliable information abovit making and using Traps, Snares. Nets, Baits, kc, kr. With uumenMis HluHtrations. Taxidermy, a i)racti(:il guide to prci)ar. ing, i)r. "serving, wtuffing and mountiug Birds. With illustrations. Besides ii vast amount of information of importaucf to cvt iyl)ody, OLD AND YOUNG, MALE AND FEMALE, MARRIED AND SINGLE. I^R,iaE T^^^TElsTT^S^-I^I'VE OEl>TTS. Sent to any inldrrsn, poutaf^c paid, on retrlpt of the price. Seiid Orders to HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, NO. 1 CHAMBERS STREET. NEW YORK EVERYBODY'S FEIEND; OK, The Universal Hand-Booke This Book ^will give you correct information on every possible subject that yon ever heard or thought of, or anything you want to know or do, this book will tell you all about it. CO^TEI^TS: Anecdotes, Conundrums, &c. Ants, to get rid of, Asleep, how to fall, Bandoline for the Hair, to make, Barometer, how to make a truthful, Bed Clothes, Bitters, how made, Blackberry Cordial, to make, Boards, to remove grease from, Brother Jonathan, origin of. Butter, new mode of preparing and preserving, Card Charm, Carpets, to restore color to, Cement for Paper, Cherry Bounce, how made, China, Cement to mend broken, Churning, Cleanliness, Advantages of, Cologne Water, to make superior, Coloring for Liquors, to make. Corn, to preserve from Birds & "Worms Counterfeit Money, how to detect, Delicious Candy, a, Earache, to cure the worst, Everton Taffy, to make, Ej^es, to prevent the light injuring the Eact, a Curious, Eilth, reproductive power of, Flannels, to make keep color and prevent shrinking. Gamblers' Tricks with Cards, Dice,&c. Gilding, to Preserve and Clean, Glue, to make liquid, Gold, how to make. Gold and Silver Coin, to tell spurious, Grease Spots, to remove, Green Corn Patties, to make, Hair, to Dye the, Recipes for Curling, To promote Growth of the Brushes, to Clean, II.'Hid, the most Beautiful, Hard to Satisfy, Hens, to make" them laj'. Historical Facts, Horse Taming, Rarey's Theory, House Paint, to make economical White, [beautiful. How Ladies can become and continue House Plants, best Fertilizer for, How Men should treat Women, Husband, to find out whom one is *o have for a. Ink, to prevent moulding, Stains, to remove from linen. Iron Moulds, to take out of linen, John Jacob Astor, how he made his money. Kissing, Josh Billings on. Liquid Rouge for the Complexion, how made. Liquor Dealer's Guide, tells how to make Brandy, Holland Gin, Jamai- ca Rum, Irish or Scotch Whisky, Monongahela Whisky, Old Bour- bon Whisky, Peach Brandy, Pine- apple Rum*, Madeira Wine, Sherry Wine, Port Wine, Claret, Raspberry Wine, Currant Wine, Cider, Goose- berry, Cherry, Elderberry, Straw- berry, Mttlberry, Apple, Grape, Apricot, Damson, and Whortleber- ry Wme, Marry, for a girl to ascertain if she'll soon. Mattresses, Cotton, Maxims, 12 Golden, on Dress, Con- versation, Bearing Adversity, An- ger, Secret Enemies, Law and Phys- ic, Inconstancy, Charity Allegor- ized, Diet and Regimen, How to use Prosperity, Believing and Commu- nicating News, Conduct towards a Friend, Mildew, to take out. Mosquitoes, to drive away. Moths, to guard against, ' Oil of Pwoses, for the Hair, Paint, to Clean, Parlor Magician, The, tells How to Cut off your Nose ; To Produce a i^>touse from a Pack of Cards ; To Mal'.e a Card jump out of the Pack and be seeu upon the table ; How to Pat an Bgy in a Bottle ; To Prepare a Fountiin of Fire ; A Card found out by tho point of a Sword ; The Conjuror's Trick ; How to Eat Tow and set it on Fire in j'our Hand; Houdin's Celebrated Nut Trick ; To t ike Feathers out of an Empty Handkerchief; How to change a Pack of Cards into all manuer of Pictures ; To change a Card which is in the hand of a person ; To make a Card pass from one hand into the other ; The Rope Tying Feat ; How to Cut a Man's Head off and put it in a platter a yard from his body. Parlor Theatricals, how to get up Plays, Charades, Tableaux, «fec. Patent Safe Game, how Played, Pearl Powder for the Coraplexion, how to make. Pearl Water for the Complexion, to ! make, i Perfumes, Geography of, ' Peter Funks Exposed, Pocket Book Droppers, Tricks of, Poetical Quotations, Potatoes, to prevent Rot in, Poultry and Eggs, Prophecy, a Remarkable, ; Proverbs of all Nations, I Putrefaction, to Retard, ! Rain, the Drops in a Shower of, I What is an inch of, I Rat Trap, a Cheap and Eflacient, I Rose Water, to make. Salutations of all Nations, ! Shirt Bosoms, to make Glossy, Sighs of Love, how made, ; Signification, or Language of Flowers, ; Silk, to make old look like new. Sleepless Nights, to avoid, ; Sponges, to preserve, I Smelling Salts, to make, j Steel, to remove rust from, I or Iron, to prevent articles of I from rusting, Summer Drink, to make. Table Linen, to take Stains out of, I Tea, Beneficial Influence of, I Tea Kettle, to remove the Fur in a, I Teeth, to make White, ; Temper and Disposition of any person, \ to know the, ; Timber, to preserve, ! Tomato Catsup, to make, j Tooth Powder, to make a fine, 1 Vinegar, to make, I Vinegar Rouge, to make, : Warts, to destroy, i Washerwoman, Useful Information I for, I AVashing Clothes, new Mixture used I in, j AVhiskers or Moustache, to make grow ; Whooping Cough, to Cure, , Western "Cider, how made without Apples or other Fruit, _ Sent post-paid on Receipt o±' tlie Pa-ice. SendonJersto ^ HAPPY HOURS COMPANY. NO. 1 CHAMBERS STREET. NEW YORK Part II. ^H.i^-fi- Price 25 Cts. 0^%^^ism RY BOY ff i yw .M, CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN <^LA3g !Px.owiNq, WITH FULL DIRECTIONS HOW TO MAKE Steam Engines, Locomotive Engines, Electric Telegraphs, Steam Boats, Dioramas, Clocks, Brackets, Telescopes, Etc., Etc. -• If, as BuTLEK insinuates, "The pleasure is as great of being cheated as to cheat," tlie life of a Prestidigitator must be a pleasant one ; and to enable any one to realize the fact, we, in this volume, present the key to the "Mystical Mysteries," whereby any boy, of an ingenious turn of mind, can amuse and astound his friends, school- fellows and neighbors. Annexed we give a list of a PORTION OF THE CONTENTS. Magic Plums, Self Balancing, Sea of Ink, Chameleon Trick, Vanishing Seed, Arah in the Air, Magic Candles, E-ope Trick, New Ribbon Manufactory, Changing Fruit, Magic Telegraph, Enchanted Coin, Tricks with Eggs, Mystic Tea Caddies, Invisible Courier, Japanese Butterflies, Iron Hand, Erratic Knaves, Flying Knife, Etc., Etc., Etc. Price 30 Oents. T3:Ji^l.— IJeadiiie:. Family Reading. Table Oratory. Wedding Breakfast Speeches. Verse. P^R^T THIXiO.— ElooTitioix. The Bar. Parliamentary. The Pulpit. The Lecture Desk. The Stage. Conclusion. The Platform. Price 30 Cents. 1_ Either of the above will be sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of the price. HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, Publishers, No. I Chambers Street, New York. THE BOOK OF WONDERS, MYSTERIES AND DISCLOSURES ; A Complete Hand-book of Userol Information^ Giving full and expUcit directions for making Hair Oils, Restoratives, Hair Dyes, Perfumery, Toilet Articles, Cosme- tics of all kinds. Plain and Fancy Soaps, Tooth Powders, Flavoring Extracts and Essences, Patent Medicines, Inks of all kinds. Beverages for Families, Fairs and Pic-Xics, Remedies against all kinds of Vermin, and a large number of Recipes for the manufacture of valuable articles of every day use, which can be disposed of at a good profit, making a collection of recipes of great value to Manufacturers, Storekeepers, Druggists, Peddlers and Families generally. This book shows how the homely may be made handsome and the ignorant wise. It explains in a distinct manner, comprehensible to all, how the personal appearance of everybody, favored or otherwise by nature, can be made charming, fascinating and the envy of the public. It gives also plans by which thousands of the old and young of both sexes can find employment and gain riches. It is a compendium of the most useful information ever collected together for the benefit of the married and single ; showing how distresses of every character (physical and mental) may be prevented, or (if existing), be obliterated, and is replete with wisdom and entertainment for all. Among the contents of this valuable work may be found The Hunter's Secret. How to Catch Foxes, Mink, Musk Rats, Beavers, &c. How to make the celebrated BEAVER MEDICINE. Chinese art of Catching Fish alive, &c. The Liquor Dealer's Guide, Tells how to make all kinds of Liquors at very little expense, and HOW TO MAKE THE CELEBRATED WESTERN CIDER, without apples or any other fruit. The Ladies' Guide to Beauty, TeU- ing how Ladies can become and remain beautiful. How to make all kinds of Rouges, Powders, Pastes, Colognes, Salts, Oils, &c. ; besides other information of much value to Ladies. Gamblers' Tricks Explained ; also, of Pe- ter Funks, Pickpockets, Pocket-Book Droppers, &c. The Secret of Horse Taming ; Also, how to make Liniments, Lotions, TTS. Sent to any artdrcHU, postaf^c paid, on rer«>lpt of the prire. HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, Publishers, No. I Chambers Street, New York. EVEEYBODY'S FRIEND; OR, The Universal Hand-Booko This Book will give yon correct information on every possible subject that you ever heard or thought of, or anything you want to know or do, this book will tell you all about it. CO ISTTENTS Anecdotes, Conundrunas, &c. Ants, to get rid of, Asleep, how to fall. Bandoline for the Hair, to make. Barometer, how to make a truthful. Bed Clothes, Bitters, how made. Blackberry Cordial, to make, Boards, to remove grease from. Brother Jonathan, origin of, Butter, new mode of preparing and preserving. Card Charm, Carpets, to restore color to. Cement for Paper, Cherry Bounce, how made, China, Cement to mend broken, Churning, Cleanliness, Advantages of, Cologne Water, to make superior, Coloring for Liquors, to make. Corn, to preserve from Birds & Worms Counterfeit Money, how to detect, Delicious Candy, a. Earache, to cure the worst, Everton Taffy, to make, Eyes, to prevent the light injuring the Pact, a Curious, Filth, reproductive power of, Flannels, to make keep color and prevent shrinking. Gamblers' Tricks with Cards, Dice,&c. Gilding, to Preserve and Clean, Glue, to make liquid, Gold, how to make, Gold and Silver Coin, to tell spurious, Grease Spots, to remove. Green Corn Patties, to make, Hair, to Dye the, Recipes for Curling, To promote Growth of the Brushes, to Clean, Haaid, the most Beautiful, Hard to Satisfy, Hens, to make them lay, Historical Pacts, Horse Taming, Rarey's Theory, House Paint, to make economical White, [beautiful. How Ladies can become and continue House Plants, best Fertilizer for, How Men should treat Women, Husband, to find out whom one is *o have for a. Ink, to prevent moulding, Stains, to remove from linen, Iron Moulds, to take out of linen, John Jacob Astor, how he made his money. Kissing, Josh Billings on. Liquid Rouge for the Complexion, how made. Liquor Dealer's Guide, tells how to make Brandy, Holland Gin, Jamai- ca Rum, Irish or Scotch Whisky, Monongahela Whisky, Old Bour- bon Whisky, Peach Brandy, Pine- apple Rum, Madeira Wine, Sherry Wine, Port Wine, Claret, Raspberry Wine, Currant Wine, Cider, Goose- berry, Cherry, Elderberry, Straw- berry, Mulberry, Apple, Grape, Apricot, Damson, and Whortleber- ry Wme. Marry, for a girl to ascertain if she'll soon. Mattresses, Cotton, Maxims, 12 Golden, on Dress, Con- versation, Bearing Adversity, An- ger, Secret Enemies, Law and Phys- ic, Inconstancy, Charity Allegor- ized, Diet and Regimen, How to use Prosperity, Believing and Commu- nicating News, Conduct towards a Friend, Mildew, to take out. Mosquitoes, to drive away. Moths, to guard against, " Oil of Roses, for the Hair, Paint, to Clean, Parlor Magician, The, tells How to Cut off your Nose ; To Produce a Mouse from a Pack of Cards ; To Mahe a Card jump out of the Pack and be seen upon the table ; How to Put an Egg- in a Bottle ; To Prepare a Fountain of Fire ; A Card found out by the point of a Sword ; The Conjuror's Trick ; How to Eat Tow and set it on Fire in your Hand; Houdin's Celebrated Nut Trick ; To tike Feathers out of an Empty Handkerchief; How to change a Pack of Cards into all manner of Pictures ; To change a Card which is in the hand of a person ; To make a Card pass from one hand into the other ; The Rope Tying Feat ; How to Cut a Man's Head off and put it in a platter a yard from his body. Parlor Theatricals, how to get up Plays, Charades, Tableaux, fcc. Patent Safe Game, how Played, Pearl Powder for the Complexion, how to make. Pearl Water for the Complexion, to make. Perfumes, Geography of, Peter Funks Exposed, Pocket Book Droppers, Tricks of, Poetical Quotations, Potatoes, to prevent Rot in, Poultry and Eggs, Prophecy, a Remarkable, Proverbs of all Nations, Putrefaction, to Retard, Rain, the Drops in a Shower of, What is an inch of. Rat Trap, a Cheap and Efficient, Rose Water, to make. Salutations of all Nations, Shirt Bosoms, to make Glossy, Sighs of Love, how made. Signification, or Language of Flowers, Silk, to make old look like new. Sleepless Nights, to avoid. Sponges, to preserve. Smelling Salts, to : Steel, to remove rust from, or Iron, to prevent articles of from rusting, Summer Drink, to make, Table Linen, to take Stains out of. Tea, Beneficial Influence of, 'I'ea Kettle, to remove the Fur in a. Teeth, to make White, Temper and Disposition of any person, to know the, Timber, to preserve. Tomato Catsup, to make, Tooth Powder, to make a fine. Vinegar, to make. Vinegar Rouge, to make, Warts, to destroy. Washerwoman, Useful Information for, Washing Clothes, new Mixture used in, Whiskers or Moustache, to make grow Whooping Cough, to Cure, Western Cider, how made without Apples or other Fruit, Sent post-paid, on Receipt of the I^ice. HAPPY HOUPS COMPAXr, No. 1 Chambers Street, New York. Part III. ^.bS^-J\(,. Price 25 Cts. ^ VERY BOY ff ^^ni III/ -nififi CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN <^LA3g ^X^OWINQ, WITH FULL DIRECTIONS HOW TO MAKE Steam Engines, Loconiotive Engines, Electric Telegraphs, Steam Boats, Dioramas, Clocks, Brackets, Telescopes, Etc., Etc. f>?vO*'tj'^3^I.Y II.— Keadiiig^. Family Reading. Public Reading. Table Oratory. After Dinner Speeches. Wedding Breakfast Speeches. Funeral Orations. Verse. I>^IiT THITiO.— Elo<3iitioii. The Bar. Parliamentary. The Pulpit. The Lecture Desk. The Stage. Conclusion. The Platform. Px'ice 30 Oents. Either of the above will be sent by mail, postpaid, ou receipt of the price. HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, Publishers, No. I Chambers Street, New York. THE BOOK OF WONDERS, MYSTERIES A^^D DISCLOSURES ; A Complete Hand-book of Useful Iiiforinatioii ^ Giving full and explicit directions for making Hair Oils, Restoratives, Hair Dyes, Perfumery, Toilet Articles, Cosme- tics of all kinds, Plain and Fancy Soaps, Tooth Powders, Flavoring Extracts and Essences, Patent Medicines, Inks of all kinds, Beverages for Families, Fairs and Pic-Xics, Remedies against all kinds of Vermin, and a large number of Recipes for the manufacture of valuable articles of every day use, which can be disposed of at a good profit, making a collection of recipes of great value to Manufacturers, Storekeepers, Druggists, Peddlers and Families generally. This book shows how the homely may be made handsome and the ignorant wise. It explains in a distinct manner, comprehensible to all, how the personal appearance of everybody, favored or otherwise by nature, can be made charming, fascinating and the envy of the public. It gives also plans by which thousands of the old and young of both sexes can find employment and gain riches. It is a compendium of the most useful information ever collected together for the benefit of the married and single ; showing how distresses of every character (physical and mental) may be prevented, or (if existing), be obliterated, and is replete with wisdom and entertainment for all. Among the contents of this valuable work may be found The Hunter's Secret. How to Catch Foxes, Mink, Musk Rats, Beavers, &c. How to make the celebrated BEAVER MEDICINE. Chinese art of Catching Fish alive, occ. The Liquor Dealer's G-uide, TeUs how to make all kinds of Li to I>rri.ar ing. preBorving. Ktufliiig and mounting BinlK. With illustratioDH. Besides a vast amount of information of importance to everybody, OLD AND YOUNG, MALE AND FEMALE, MARRIED AND SINGLE. i^i^iOE T'v^-:Eiisrrc-^-FT-\r:Ei oei>tts- Sent to any- acldrcHM, pontage paid, on receipt of the price. HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, Publishers, No. I Chambers Street, New Yotk. EVERYBODY'S FRIEND OR, The Universal Hand-Book. This Book will give you correct information on every possible subject that you ever heard or thought of, or anything you want to know or do, this book will tell you all about it. COIS^TEI^TS Anecdotes, Conundrums, &c. Ants, to get rid of. Asleep, how to fall, Bandoline for the Hair, to make, Barometer, how to make a truthful, Bed Clothes, Bitters, how made, Blackberry Cordial, to make, Boards, to remove grease from. Brother Jonathan, origin of. Butter, new mode of preparing and preserving, Card Charm, Carpets, to restore color to. Cement for Paper, Cherry Bounce, how made, China, Cement to mend broken, Churning, Cleanliness, Advantages of, Cologne Water, to make superior. Coloring for Liquors, to make. Corn, to preserve from Birds & Worms Counterfeit Money, how to detect, Delicious Candy, a^ Earache, to cure the worst, Everton Taffy, to make, Eyes, to prevent the light injuring the Pact, a Curious, Filth, reproductive power of. Flannels, to make keep color and prevent shrinking, Gamblers' Tricks with Cards, Dice,&c. Gilding, to Preserve and Clean, Glue, to make liquid, Gold, how to make, Gold and Silver Coin, to tell spurious, Grease Spots, to remove, Green Corn Patties, to make, Hair, to Dye the, Recipes for Curling, To promote Growth of the Brushes, to Clean, Hand, the most Beautiful, Hard to Satisfy, Hens, to make them lay. Historical Facts, Horse Taming, Rarey's Theory, House Paint, to make economical White, [beautiful, How Ladies can become and continue House Plants, best Fertilizer for, How Men should treat Women, Husband, to find out whom one is *o have for a. Ink, to prevent moulding, Stains, to remove from linen, Iron Moulds, to take out of linen, John Jacob Astor, how he made his money. Kissing, Josh Billings on. Liquid Rouge for the Complexion, how made. Liquor Dealer's Guide, tells how to make Brandy, Holland Gin, Jamai- ca Rum, Irish or Scotch Whisky, Monongahela Whisky, Old Bour- bon Whisky, Peach Brandy, Pine- apple Rum, Madeira Wine, Sherry Wine, Port Wine, Claret, Raspberry Wine, Currant Wine, Cider, Goose- berry, Cherry, Elderberry, Straw- berry, Jfulberry, Apple, Grape, Apricot, Damson, and Whortleber- ry Wme, Marry, for a girl to ascertain if she'll soon, Mattresses, Cotton, Maxims, 12 Golden, on Dress, Con- versation, Bearing Adversity, An- ger, Secret Enemies, Law and Phys- ic, Inconstancy, Charity Allegor- ized, Diet and Regimen, How to use Prosperity, Believing and Commu- nicating News, Conduct towards a Friend, Mildew, to take out, Mosquitoes, to drive away. Moths, to guard against, ' Oil of Roses, for the Hair, Paint, to Clean, Parlor Magician, The, tells How to Cut off your Nose ; To Produce a Mouse from a Pack of Cards ; To Mahe a Card jump out of the Pack and be seen, upon the table ; How to Put an Egg^ in a Bottle ; To Prepare a Fountain of Fire ; A Card found out by the point of a Sword ; The Conjuror's Trick ; How to Eat Tow and set it on Fire in your Hand; Houdin's Celebrated Nut Trick ; To take Feathers out of an Empty Handkerchief; How to change a Pack of Cards into all manner of Pictures ; To change a Card which is in the hand of a person ; To make a Card pass from one hand into the other ; The Rope Tying Feat ; How to Out a Man's Head off and put it in a platter a yard from his body. Parlor Theatricals, how to get" up Plays, Charades, Tableaux, &c. Patent Safe Game, how Played, Pearl Powder for the Complexion, how to make. Pearl Water for the Complexion, to make, Perfumes, Geography of, Peter Funks Exposed, Pocket Book Droppers, Tricks of, Poetical Quotations, Potatoes, to prevent Rot in. Poultry and Eggs, Prophecy, a Remarkable, Proverbs of all Nations, Putrefaction, to Retard, Rain, the Drops in a Shower of, What is an inch of. Rat Trap, a Cheap and Efficient, Rose Water, to make. Salutations of all Nations, Shirt Bosoms, to make Glossy, Sighs of Love, how made, Signification, or Language of Flowers, Silk, to make old look like new. Sleepless Nights, to avoid. Sponges, to preserve. Smelling Salts, to make, Steel, to remove rust from, ■ or Iron, to prevent articles of from rusting, Summer Drink, to make, Table Linen, to take Stains out of, Tea, Beneficial Influence of. Tea Kettle, to remove the Fur in a, Teeth, to make White, Temper and Disposition of any person, to know the. Timber, to preserve, Tomato Catsup, to make. Tooth Powder, to make a fine, Yinegar, to make. Vinegar Rouge, to make, Warts, to destroy, Washerwoman, "Useful Information for. Washing Clothes, new Mixture used in, Whiskers or Moustache, to make grow "WTiooping Cough, to Cure, Western Cider, how made without Apples or other Fruit, Sent pos"t>-paid. on Receipt of tlie ^E*iT.ce. HAPPY HOUKS COMPAXr, No. 1 Chambers Street, New York. art IV.^f^.f 7—/^'--- Price 25 Cts. f "iv! 1 1881,1 iJi oi M ERY BOY Ife wa aiaiiiaiiii I CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN jI^AF^PENTFiY, JuF^JMING, ^Oy\T ^UIjLDIJ^IQ, yVND <^LAg3 !PjLOWINQ, WITH FULL DIRECTIONS HOW TO MAKE Steam Engines, Locomotive Engines, Electric Telegraphs, Steam Boats, Dioramas, Clocks, Brackets, Telescopes, Etc., Etc. P!{Of^Ux^iJr,Y ij,j,u;^¥f{.$^¥ijf). N E w V () li K : H A r r Y 11 O U K S C O M P A N Y, X". 1 TnAMBi ns Rtrket. atered, according to Act of Congress, i a the year 1873, by Happy Houbs Co., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. A MANUAL OF MYSTICAL MYSTERIES, WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS. »-*-0 If, as BuTLEE insinuates, ' ' The pleasure is as great of being cheated as to cheat," tlie life of a Prestidigitator must be a pleasant one ; and to enable any one to realize the fact, we, in this volume, present the key to the "Mystical Mysteries," whereby any boy, of an ingenious turn of mind, can amuse and astound his friends, school- fellows and neighbors. Annexed we give a list of a PORTION OF THE CONTENTS. Magic Plums, Sea of Ink, Vanishing Seed, Magic Candles, New Ribbon Manufactory, Magic Telegraph, Tricks with Eggs, Invisible Courier, Iron Hand, Flying Knife, Price 30 Self Balancing, Chameleon Trick, Arab in the Air, Rope Trick, Changing Fruit, Enchanted Coin, Mystic Tea Caddies, Japanese ButterjQies, Erratic Knaves, Etc., Etc., Etc. Oents. sz^nsriD Booi^ Being- a Systematic Compendium cf the necessary Rules for attaining- Proficiency in Reading- and Speaking-. With copious and interesting examples. This treatise on Elocution and Omtory has been prepared with a strict regard to j)ractical utility, by a favorite tragedienne of the stage. By attention to its rules the learner may rapidly acquire the art of reading aloud with due emphasis, and of expressing himself in a set speech, or a recitation, with propriety. Though chiefly designed for social purposes, it will also prove a safe guide for those who wish to establish a well founded professional reputation, either as readers, speakers, or actors. CONTENTS. Preliminary Remarks on the Leading Principles of Elocution. P»^IiT SEOOTSrJ3.— lieadLiiig^. Family Reading. Public Reading. Table Oratory. After Dinner Speeches. Wedding Breakfast Speeches. Funeral Orations. Verse. THIR.I>, The Bar. The Pulpit. The Stage. Conclusion. The Platform Fi-ice 30 Cents. Elooution. Parliamentary. The Lecture Desk. Either of the above will be sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of the price. HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, Publishers, No. I Chambers Street, New York. EVEKYBODY'S FRIEND; OR, The Universal Hand-BooL This Book ^will give you correct information on every possible subject that you ever heard or thought of, or anything you want to know or do, this book will tell you all about it. CO:iSrTEN^TS: Anecdotes, Conundrums, &c. Ants, to get rid of. Asleep, how to fall. Bandoline for the Hair, to make. Barometer, how to make a truthful. Bed Clothes, Bitters, how made. Blackberry Cordial, to make, Boards, to remove grease from, Brother Jonathan, origin of. Butter, new mode of preparing and preserving, Card Charm, Carpets, to restore color to. Cement for Paper, Cherry Bounce, how made, China, Cement to mend broken, Churning, Cleanliness, Advantages of, Cologne Water, to make superior, Coloring for Liquors, to make, Corn, to preserve from Birds & Worms Counterfeit Money, how to detect, Delicious Candy, a. Earache, to cure the worst, Everton Taffy, to make, Eyes, to prevent the light injuring the Fact, a Curious, Filth, reproductive power of, Flannels, to make keep color and prevent shrinking, Garalilers* Tricks with Cards, Dico,&c. Gilding, to Preserve and Clean, Glue, to make liquid^ Gold, how to make, Goi make. Steel, to remove rust from, or Iron, to prevent articles of from rusting. Summer Driijk, to make, Table Linen, to tuke Stains out of, Tea, Beneficial Infiuence of, 'lea Kettle, to xvmove the Fur in a. Teeth, to make White, Temper and Disposition of any person, to Know I he. Timber, to preserve, I Tomato Catsuj), to make, * Tooth Powder, to make a fine, I Vinegar, to make, I Vinegar Rouge, to make, Warts, to destroy. j Washerwoman, Useful Information i for. Washing Clothes, now Mixture used in, Whiskers or Moustache, to make grow Whooping Cough, to Cure, Western Cider, how made without Apples or other Fruit, Sent post-paid on Tieceipt of the I?rioe. HAPPY HOURS COi\rPA:N'Y, ^ No. 1 Chambers Street, New York. THE BOOK OF WONDERS, MYSTERIES AND DISCLOSURES; A Complete Hand-book of liberal Information^ Giving full and explicit directions for making Hair Oils, Restoratives, Hair Dyes, Perfumery, Toilet Articles, Cosme- tics of all kinds, Plain and Fancy Soaps, Tooth Powders, Flavoring Extracts and Essences, Patent Medicines, Inks of all kinds. Beverages for Families, Fairs and Pic-Ifics, Bemedies against all kinds of Vermin, and a large number of Recipes for the manufacture of valuable articles of every day use, which can be disposed of at a good profit, making a collection of recipes of great value to Manufacturers, Storekeepers, Druggists, Peddlers and Families generally. This book shows how the homely may be made handsome and the ignorant wise. It explains in a distinct manner, comprehensible to all, how the personal appearance of everybody, favored or otherwise by nature, can he made charming, fascinating and the envy of the public. It gives also plans by which thousands of the old and young of both sexes can find employment and gain riches. It is a compendium of the most iiseful information ever collected together for the benefit of the married and single ; showing how distresses of every character (physical and mental) may be prevented, or (if existing), be obliterated, and is replete with wisdom and entertainment for all. Among the contents of this valuable work may be found The Hunter's Secret. How to Catcii Foxes, Mink, Musk Rats, Beavers, &c. How to make the celebrated BEAVER MEDICINE. Chinese art of Catching Fish alive, &c. The Liqnor Dealer's Guide, TeUs how to make all kinds of Liquors at very little expense, and HOW TO MAKE THE CELEBRATED WESTERN CIDER, without apples or any other fruit. The Ladies' G-uide to Beauty, TeU- ing how Ladies can become and remain beautiful. How to make all kinds of Rouges, Powders, Pastes, Colognes, Salts, Oils, &c. ; besides other information of much value to Ladies. I Gamblers' Tricks Explained ; also, of Pe- ter Funks, Pickpockets, Pocket-Book Droppers, &c. The Secret of Horse Taming ; Also, how to make Liniments, Lotions, &c., for Horses. The Hair and Whiskers * To promote the Growth of the Hair. To Make Lyons', Wood's, Barry's. Bogle's, Jayne's, Storr's, Baker's, Driscol's, Phalon's, Albus', Spaulding's and other Hair Restorers and Invigorators. To Cure Baldness. To make the Hair Soft and Glossy. To make Poudre Subtile for Remov- ing the Hair. To make Chinese Depilatory for Remov- ing Superfluous Hair. To make Instantaneous Hair Dye. Directions for Dyeing the Hair. To make the celebrated GRAHAM ONGUENT, for forcing the Whiskers and Mustache to grow in six weeks. To make the Hair Curl, &c., &c., &c. Curious Facts about Water. Sleep — Its Importance. Business Rules for Young Men. How to Tell a Lady: Signs of Char- acter. etc. Marrying for Show. "Put a pin here." Good swains and lovers. Signs of Love. Everybody should read these eniimerations of the signs of the "tender pas- sion." Things "Worth Knowing. This depart- ment contains over 400 Recipes, t lling how to make Ayer's Cherry Pectoral, Brandreth's Pills, Certain Cure for Drunkenness, Essences, Extracts, &c. , Face j Paints, Godfrey's Cordial, Inks of all kinds, &c. Ointments of a'll kinds. Pomades of all kinds, Rev. A. AVilson's Great Remedy for Consumption, Asthma, Bronchitis, &c. Salves of all kinds. Soaps of all kinds, Swaim's Vermifuge. How to Transfer Engravings to Plaster Casts. How to Transfer Ensravings, Photo- graphs, Lithographs, Wood Cuts, Writing, in fact anything, to Glass. How to Clean Kid Gloves. To I make Imitation Gold and Silver. To make Artificial Honey. How to make Imitation Diamonds, Rubies, ! Emeralds, Topaz and other Precious Stones. The Art ' of Potchiomoni explained, &c. | Superstitions ; or Signs, Wonders and To- kens. Their signification and meaning. Bashfulness. its Causes. Some never Bashful. Prevention and Cure. An example. The way not to do it. Recipes for making Essences, Extracts, Face Paints, Inks, Ointments, Pomades, Salves, Soaps, &c. Traps and Trapping. Being practical and reliable information about making and using Traps, Snares, Nets, Baits, &c., &c. With numerous Illustrations. Taxidermy. A practical guide to prepar- ing, preserving, stuffing and mounting Birds. With illustrations. Besides a vast amount of information of importance to everybody, OLD AND YOUNG, MALE AND FEIVIALE, MARRLED AND SINGLE. 3PK,iaE T'^:^EnsrT"5r-i^i'V"E oeistts. Sent to any address, postage paid, on receipt of the pricei HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, _ No. I Cnambers Street. New York art V. ^^i ' : 2> J— J^gJ) Price 25 Cts. 1 1881/:' BOY .-^^^ Ifg Own Matti&etif ©L CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN j]1arpentf;y, fuFijMiNq, PoyvT ^Puildijmq, a^d <^LAg3 iPjLOWINQ, WITH FULL DIRECTIONS HOW TO MAKE , Steam Engines, Locomotive Engines, Electric Telegraphs, Steam Boats, Dioramas, Clocks, Brackets, Telescopes, Etc., Etc. f>f{of^ij'^Er,Y n,T,ir>^¥f{.a¥i{f), New Y o k k : H A r r Y II o u 11 s c; o M i» a n y. No. 1 Chambeiih Street. ered, accordiDg to Act of Congress, i a the year 1873, by Happy Hours Co. ,in the Ofittce of the Librarian of CoQgress at Washington. Bimwta A MANUAL OF MYSTICAL MYSTERIES, Far the ParlQT, BchQQl BM^ 3ra:wmg^M&Q>mf WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS. o^^-e If, as Butler insinuates, ' • The pleasure is as great of being cheated as to cheat," the life of a Prestidigitator must be a pleasant one ; and to enable any one to realize the fact, we, in this A'olume, present the key to the "Mystical Mysteries," whereby any boy, of an ingenious turn of mind, can amuse and astound his friends, school- fellows and neighbors. Annexed we give a list of a PORTION OF THE CONTENTS. Magic Plums, Self Balancing, Sea of Ink, Chameleon Trick, Vanishing Seed, Arab in the Air, Magic Candles, Rope Trick, New Ribbon Manufactory, Changing Fruit, Magic Telegraph, _ Enchanted Coin, Tricks with Eggs, Mystic Tea Caddies, Invisible Courier, Japanese Butterflies, Iron Hand, Erratic Knaves, Flying Knife, Etc., Etc., Etc. I*rice 30 Cents. 'HiJL.isrjD book: E^Toc^iiti'ii Being- a Systematic Compendium of the necessary Rules for attaining- Proficiency in Reading- and Speaking'. With, copious and interesting examples. This treatise on Elocution and Oratory has been prepared with a strict regard to practical utility, by a favorite tragedienne of the stage. By attention to its rules the learner may rapidly acquire the art of reading aloud with due emphasis, and of expressing himself in a set speech, or a recitation, with propriety. Though chiefly designed for social purposes, it will also prove a safe guide for those who wish to establish a well founded professional reputation, either as readers, speakers, or actors. CONTENTS. I>j^I^T FIRST. Preliminary Remarks on the Leading Principles of Elocution. I*^IiT SEOOnvr>.— R^eadiii^. Family Reading. Public Reading. Table Oratory. After Dinner Speeches. Wedding Breakfast Speeches. Funeral Orations. Verse. The Bar. The Pulpit. The Stage. Conclusion. Pi-ice 30 Cents. Eloou-tlon. Parliamentary. The Lecture Desk. The Platform. Either of the above will be sent by mail, postpaid, ou receipt of the price. HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, Publishers, No. I Chambers Street, New York. EVERYBODY'S FRIEND OR, The Universal Hand-Book. This Book 'will give you correct information on every possible subject that you ever heard or thought of, or anything yoi: want to know or do, this book will tell you all about it. COnSTTEISTTS Anecdotes, Conandrums, &c. Ants, to get rid of, Asleep, how to fall, Bandoline for the Hair, to make. Barometer, how to make a truthful, Bed Clothes, Bitters, how made, Blackberry Cordial, to make, Boards, to remove grease from, Brother Jonathan, origin of. Butter, new mode of preparing and preserving, Card Charm, Carpets, to restore color to, Cement for Paper, Cherry Bounce, how made, China, Cement to mend broken. Churning, Cleanliness, Advantages of, Cologne "Water, to make superior. Coloring for Liquors, to make, Corn, to preserve from Birds & Worms Counterfeit Money, how to detect, Delicious Candy, a. Earache, to cure the worst, Everton Taffy, to make, J^yes, to prevent the light injuring the I'act, a Curious, Filth, reproductive power of. Flannels, to make keep color and prevent shrinking, G.imblers' Tricks with Cards, Dice,&c. Gilding, to Preser^'e and Clean, Glue, to make liquid. Gold, how to make, Gold and SilvoeCoin, to tell spurious, Grease Spots, to remove. Green Com Patties, to make, Hair, to Dye the, Recipes for Curling, To promote Growth of the Brushes, to Clean, Hand, the most Beautiful, Hard to Satisfy, Hens, to make them lay, Historical Facts, Horse Taming, Ilarey's Theory, House Paint, to make economical White, [beautiful. How L;i(lies can become and continue House Plants, best Fertilizer for. How Men should treat Women, Husband, to find out whom one is *o have for a. Ink, to prevent moulding, Stains, t • remove from linen. Iron Moulds, to take out of linen, John Jacob Astor, how he made his money. Kissing, Josh Billings on, Liquid Rouge for the Complexion, how made. Liquor Dealer's Guide, tells how to make Brandy, Holland Gin, Jamai- ca Rum, Irish or Scotch Whisky, Monongahela Whisky Old Bour- bon Whisky, Peach Brandy, Pine- apple Rum*, Madeira Wine, Sherry Wine, I'ort Wine, Claret, Raspberry Winv», Currant Wine, Cider, Goose- berry, Cherry, Elderberry, Straw- berry, Mulberry, Apple, Grape, Apricot, Damson, and Whortleber- ry Wine. Marry, for a girl to ascertain if she'll soon, M ittresseS, Cotton, Maxim-5, 12 Golden, on Dress, Con- versation, Bearing Adversity, An- ger, Secret Enemies, Law and Phys- ic, Inconstancy, Charity Allegor- ized, Diet and Regimen, How to use nty, lie! g News, Conduct towards a Prosperity, Believing and Commu- nicatinj Friend, Mildew, to take out. Mosquitoes, to drive away, M >ths, to guard au^ainst, O.l of Roses, for the Hair, Paint, to Clean, Parlor Magician, The, tells How to I Cut off your Nose ; To Produce a Mouse from a Pack of Cards; To >Ia'-9 a Card jump out of the I'ack and he seen upon the; table ; How to Put an E;;^' >" -^ Bottle ; To Prepare a Fount..Ja of Fire ; A C.ird found out by tho point of a Sword ; The Conjuror's Trick ; How to Eat Tow and 8'jt it on Fire in your Hand ; j Iloudin's Celebrated Nut Trick ; To i tike Featherg out of an Empty I Handkerchief; How to change a ' Pack of Canls into all manner of I Pictures ; To change a Card which I is in the hand of a jx-rson ; To make I a Card pass from one hainl into the ' other ; The Rope Tying Feat ; How to Cut a Man's Head off and put in a platter a yard from his body. Parlor Theatricals, how to get Plays, Charades, Tableaux, &.c. Patent Safe Game, how Played, Pearl Powder for the Complexion how to make. Pearl Water for the Complexion, t make. Perfumes, Geography of, Peter Funks Exposed, Pocket Book Droppers, Tricks of. Poetical Quotations, Potatoes, to prevent Rot in, Poultry and Eggs, Prophecy, a Remarkable, Proverbs of all Nations, Putrefaction, to Retard, Rain, the Drops in a Shower of, What is an inch of. Rat Trip, a Cheap and Efficient, Rose Water, to make. Salutations of all Nations, S'.iirt Bosoms, to make Glossy, Sighs of Love, how made. Signification, or Language of Flower S.Ik, to make old look like new. Sleepless Nights, to avoid, Sponures. to preserve. Smelling Salts, t<> make. Steel, to remove rust from, or Iron, to prevent articles c from rusting, Summer Drink, to make, Table Linen, to take Stains out of, Tea, Beneficial Influence of, 'lea Kettle, to remove the Fur in a Teeth, to make White, Temper and Disposition of any perso to Know I he. Timber, to jireserve. Tomato Catsup, to make. Tooth Powder, to make a fine. Vinegar, to make, I Vinegar Rouge, to make, I Warts, to destroy, I Washerwoman, "Useful Informat I foff Washing Clothes, new Mixture u i ,'"• Whiskers or Moustache, to make gr I Whooping Cougli, to Cure, j Western Cider, how made withe I Apples or other Fruit, Sent post-paid on Receipt of th.e Pi'ice. HAPPY HOURS COMPANY, No. 1 Chambers Street, New Yorl; THE BOOK OF WONDERS, MYSTERIES AND DISCLOSURES; A Complete Hand-book of Useral Information^ Giving full and explicit directions for making Hair Oils, Restoratives, Hair Dyes, Perfumery, Toilet Articles, Cosme- tics of all kinds, Plain and Fancy Soaps, Tooth Powders, Flavoring Extracts and Essences, Patent Medicines, Inks of all kinds, Beverages for Families, Fairs and Pic-Mcs, Remedies against all kinds of Vermin, and a large number of Recipes for the manufacture of valuable articles of every day use, which can be disposed of at a good profit, making a collection of recipes of great value to Manufacturers, Storekeepers, Druggists, Peddlers and Families generallv. This book shows how the homely may be made handsome and the ignorant wise. It explains in a distinct manner, comprehensible to all, how the personal appearance of everybody, favored or otherwise by nature, can be made charming, fascinating and the envy of the public. It gives also plans by which thousands of the old and young of both sexes can find employment and gain riches. It is a compendium of the most useful information ever collected together for the benefit of the married and single ; showing how distresses of every character (physical and mental) may be prevented, or (if existing), be obliterated, and is replete with wisdom and entertainment for all. Among the contents of this valuable work may be found The Hunter's Secret. How to Catch Foxes, Mink, Musk Rats, Beavers, &c. How to make the celebrated BEAVER MEDICINE. Chinese art of Catching Fish alive, &c. The Liquor Dealer's Guide, TeUs how to make all kinds of Liquors at very little expense, and HOW TO MAKE THE CELEBRATED WESTERN CIDER, without apples or any other fruit. The Ladies' G-uide to Beauty, TeU- ing how Ladies can become and remain beautiful. How to make all kinds of Rouges, Powders, Pastes, Colognes, Salts, Oils, &c. ; besides other information of much value to Ladies. I Gamblers' Tricks Explained ; also, of Pe- I ter Funks, Pickpockets, Pocket-Book Droppers, &c. The Secret of Horse Taming ; Also, how to make Liniments, Lotions, &c., for Horses. The Hair and Whiskers • To promote the Growth of the Hair. To Make Lyons', Wood's, Barry's, Bogle's, Jayne's, Storr's, Baker's, Driscol's, Phalon's, Albus', Spaulding's and other Hair Restorers and Invigorators. To Cure Baldness. To make the Hair Soft and Glossy. To make Poudre Subtile for Remov- ing the Hair. To make Chinese Depilatory for Remov- ing Superfluous Hair. To make Instantaneous Hair Dve. i)irections for Dyeing the Hair. To make the celebrated GRAHAM ONGUENT, for forcing the Whiskers and Mustache to grow in six weeks. To make the Hair Curl, &c., &c., &c. Curious Facts about Water. Sleep — ^Its Impoetance. Business Rules for Young Men. How to Tell a Lady: Signs of Char- acter, etc. "Put a pin here." Marrying for Show. Good swains and lovers. Signs of Love. Everybody should read these enumerations of the signs of the "tender pas- sion." Things Worth Knowing. This depart- ment contains over 400 Recipes, tiling how to make Ayer's Cherry Pectoral, Brandreth's Pills, Certain Cure for Drunkenness, Essences, Extracts, &c. Face Paints, Godfrey's Cordial, Inks of all kinds, &c. Ointments of a'll kinds. Pomades of all kinds. Rev. A. "Wilson's Great Remedy for Consumption, Asthma, BroncMtis, &c. Salves of all kinds. Soaps of all kinds, Swaim's Yernufuge. How to Transfer Engravings to Plaster Casrs. How to Transfer Enaravings, Photo- graphs, Lithographs, "Wood Cuts, "Writing, in fact anything, to Glass. How to Clean Kid Gloves. To make Imitation Gold and Silver. To make Artificial Honey. How to make Imitation Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, Topaz and other Precious Stones. The Art of Potchiomoni explained, &c. Superstitions ; or Signs, Wonders and To- kens, Their signification and meaning. Bashfulness. its Causes. Some never Bashful. Prevention and Cure. An example. The way not to do it. Recipes for making Essences, Extracts, Face Paints, Inks, Ointments, Pomades, Salves, Soaps, &c. Traps and Trapping. Being practical and reliable information about making and using Traps, Snares, Nets, Baits, &c., &c. With numerous Illustrations. Taxidermy. A practical guide to prepar- ing, preserving, stuffing and mounting Birds. "With illustrations. Besides a vast amomit of information of importance to everybody, OLD AND YOUNG, MALE AND FEMALE, MAERLED AND SINGLE. :fe,ioe T'T;7^EisrT"'2^-n"v^E oextts. Sent to any- address, postage paid, on receipt of tbe price* HAPPY HOURS COMPANl, No. I Cnambers Street, New York -i ^ ^ a^^ v'^ .^^ .v'.*^- > '^^ V^^ ^'%^. -...%^' -r^-. -' n:^^* .' ,%■= ■^. cs/ ^ ~^-CiA/' » 1 ^ * \ '