F .C3f5 Class _ . Book_ COPYRIGHT 15EP0SIT I,4^4^4^^^^^'4fi^4^4f4^4^4^^^ i^ ^, rcRRis. J(J^E, I §5 7^ PRr-E FIFTY CEMT'S, COPYRIGHT, 1897. BY FERRIS PUBLISHING COMPANY ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ^t^i^^^^^p-^r'P^c^^t^^^^-'jj^^t)^'^^^ ic mum AN ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK t- I ™i> SOUVENIR FULLY DESCRIBING AND ILLUSTRATING ALL 5UMMEK RLSORT LOCALITIES IN THE ENTIRE REGION, ^ LOWLAND OR HIGHLAND. VJ^. > With Routes of Approach, Tables of Rates and Time Tables OF Various Transportation Companies, and Giving Detailed Information Concerning Every Matter of Interest to the Summer Tourist. PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED IN HALF-TONE. PRICE. 50 CENTS. PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY FERRIS PUBLICATION CO., KINGSTON N. Y Y^\r 44-|:4»#4'4'*#*4=* THE FAMOUS TRUNK NIAGARA LINE ROUTE FALLS ROUTE. PASSING AS IT DOES ALONG THE WEST SHORE OF THE ' Hudson Riv3r, AND THROUGH THE PICTURESQUE MohavA/k Valley, IS THE POPULAR Mc6t Sborc IRatlroab* THE ONLY LINE RUNNING WAGNER BUTFET PALACE SLEEPING CARS -BETWEEN NEW YORK AND TORONTO WITHOUT CHANGE. The Only All Rail Route and Through Drawing Room Car Line TO AND FROM THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. Through Trains, Dravring Room Cars Attached, are run during the Summer Season Between NEW YORK AND NEW PALTZ FOR LAKES MOHONK AND MINNEWASKA. DRAWING ROOM CARS, WITHOUT CHANGE, BETWEEN NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA AND BLOOMVILLE, AND HKTWEEN WASHINGTON, BALTIMORE, PHILADELPHIA, LONG BRANCH, POINT PLEASANT, NEW YORK and SARATOGA and LAKE GEORGE FAST EXPRESS TRAINS, WITH ELEGANT PALACE and SLEEPING CARS BETWEEN New York, Boston, Newhurgh, Kingston, Catskil], Albany, Saratoga, Montreal, Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Hamilton, London, Toronto, Detroit, Cleveland, Chicago and St. Louis, without change. For Tickets, Time Tables, and full information, apply to any Ticket Agent, West Shore Railroad or address, C. E. LAMBERT, Gen'l Pass. Agt., 5 Vanderbilt Ave., New York. ^#^ Chapter PaGE, I--The Catskills 7 II — Available Transportation Lines miles. Kripple Bush, Ulster Co. — To Brodhead's Bridg-e as directed; thence by private conveyance 8 miles. Krumville, Ulster Co. — To Brodhead's Bridge as directed ; thence by private conveyance 8 miles. Lake Delaware, Delaware Co. — To Bloomville as directed; thence by private conveyance 8 miles. Lake Hill, Ulster Co. — To Mount Pleasant as directed ; thence by private conveyance 7 miles. Lamontville, Ulster Co. — To Brown's Station as directed ; thence by private conveyance 4 miles. Lanesville, Greene Co. — To Phoenicia as directed; thence by Stony Clove and C. M. R. R. direct. Laurel House, Greene Co. — To Otis Summit as directed ; thence by Kaaterskill R. R. direct. Also from Phoenicia by Stony Clove and C. M. R. R. to Kaaterskill Junction, and thence by Kaaters- kill R. R. Lawrenceville, Greene Co. — To Catskill as directed ; thence by Cats- kill Mtn. Ry. Leeds, Greene Co.— To Catskill as directed ; thence by Catskill Mtn. Ry. direct. Lexing-ton, Greene Co. — To Shandaken as directed ; thence by stag-e 11 miles. Or to Hunter, and thence by stag-e 9 miles. Long-year, Ulster Co —The P O name at Mt Pleasant Mackey, Schoharie Co — To Grand Gorge as directed ; thence by private conveyance 10 miles. Manor Kill, Schoharie Co — To Grand Gorg-e as directed ; thence by private conveyance 10 miles. Marbletown, Ulster Co.- -To West Hurley as directed; thence by private conveyance 4 miles. Marg-aretville, Delaware Co.- To Arkville as directed; thence by stage 2 miles. Mink Hollow, Ulster Co.— (P O. Lake Hill). To Mt. Pleasant as directed ; thence by private conveyance 9 miles. *Mount Pleasant, Ulster Co.— (P. O. Long-year). Day Line steamers to Kingston Point, or West Shore R. R. to King-ston ; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. See "the Corner." New King-ston, Delaware Co. — To Arkville as directed ; thence by private conveyance 9 miles. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 21 North Blenheim, Schoharie Co. — To Grand Gorg-e as directed; thence by private conveyance 10 miles. North Harpersfield, Delaware Co.— To Stamford as directed; thence by private conveyance 6 miles. Norton Hill, Greene Co.— To Cairo as directed; thence by private conveyance 8 miles. Oak Hill, Greene Co.— To Cairo as directed; thence by stag-e 12 miles. Olive, Ulster Co.— To Olive Branch as directed; thence by private conveyance 3 miles. *01ive Branch, Ulster Co.— Day Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R. R. to Kingston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. P. O. name, Ashton. Olive Bridg-e, Ulster Co.— To Brodhead's Bridg-e as directed; thence by private conveyance 2 miles. Olive City, Ulster Co. — Local name for Olive Bridg-e. Olivera. Ulster Co.— To Big- Indian as directed; thence by stag-e 2>4 miles. Otis Summit, Greene Co.— The mountain terminus of the Otis Ele- vating- Ry. Day Line steamers or West Shore R R to Catskill; Catskill Mountain Ry. to Otis Junction; thence by Otis Elevating- Ry direct. Palenville, Greeene Co.— To Catskill as directed; thence by Catskill Mountain Ry. direct. *Phoenicia, Ulster Co — Day Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R R. to King-ston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. *Pine Hill, Ulster Co —Day Line steamers to Kingston Point, or West Shore R. R to King-ston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. Prattsville, Greene Co. — To Grand Gorg-e as directed; thence by, stag-e 5 miles. Purling-, Greene Co.— To Cairo as directed; thence by private con- veyance 2 miles. *Roxbury, Delaware Co. — Day Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R. R. to Kingston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. Ruth, Schoharie Co. — To Stamford as directed; thence by private conveyance 8 miles Samsonville, Ulster Co.— To Brodhead's Bridg-e as directed; thence by private conveyance 6 miles. Saxton, Ulster Co.— To Palenville as directed; thence by private conveyance 2 miles. Seager, Ulster Co. — To Arkville as directed; thence by private con- veyance 8 miles. 22 THE CATSKILLS. Shady, Ulster Co.— To West Hurley as directed; thence by private conveyance 6 miles. *Shandaken, Ulster Co.— Day Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R. R. to King-ston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. Shavertown, Delaware Co.— To Arkville as directed; thence by stag-e 15 miles. Shokan, Ulster Co.— Day Line steamers to Kingston Point, or West Shore R. R. to King-ston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. Slide Mountain, Ulster Co. — To Big Indian as directed; thence by stage 5 miles. South Cairo, Greene Co. — To Catskill as directed; thence by Catskill Mountain Ry. direct. South Durham, Greene Co. — To Cairo as directed; thence by stag-e 6 miles. *South Gilboa, Schoharie Co. — Day 'Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R. R. to Kingston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. South Jefferson, Schoharie Co. — To Stamford as directed; thence by private conveyance 5 miles. *South Kortrig-ht, Delaware Co. — Day Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R. R. to King-ston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. Spruceton, Greene Co. — To Shandaken as directed; thence by private conveyance 10 miles. Stamford, Delaware Co. — Day Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R. R. to King-ston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. Summit Mountain. — The P. O. name at the New Grand Hotel. See Grand Hotel Station. Sunside, Greene Co. — To Cairo as directed; thence by private con- veyance 5 miles. Tannersville, Greene Co. — To Otis Summit as directed; thenc Kaaterskill R. R. direct. Or to Phoenicia as directed; th by Stony Clove and C. M. Ry. to Kaaterskill Junction; th by Kaaterskill R. R. direct. The Corner, Ulster Co. — One of the two post-offices at Mount Pleae the other being Longyear. Longyear is at the station. The ner, half a mile away, across the Esopus. See Mount Pleaj Union Grove, Delaware Co. — To Arkville as directed; thenci stage 12 miles. Union Society, Greene Co. — To Cairo as directed; thence by s 13 miles. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 23 Warnerville, Schoharie Co. — To Stamford as directed; thence by private conveyance 16 miles. *West Hurley, Ulster Co. — Day Line steamers to King-ston Point, or West Shore R. R. to King-ston; thence by Ulster and Delaware R. R. direct. Westkill, Greene Co. — To Shandaken as directed; thence by stag-e 7 miles. West Shokan, Ulster Co. — P. O. name at Shokan Station, which see. Windham, Greene Co.- — To Hunter as directed; thence by stage 9 miles. Or to Cairo and thence by stage 16 miles. Wittenberg-, Ulster Co. — ^To Cold Brook as directed; thence by pri- vate conveyance 4 miles. Woodland, Ulster Co. — To Phoenicia as directed; thence by private conveyance 5 miles. Woodstock, Ulster Co. —To West Hurley as directed; thence by stage 5 miles. Zena, Ulster Co. — To West Hurley as directed; thence by private conveyance 4 miles. * Stations marked thus may also be reached by the Romer & Tremper Steamboat to Rondout, a nig-ht line, or by Steamer Mary Powell, which leaves New York in the afternoon, arriving at Ron- dout about dark, and remaining- over night at a hotel, taking- Ulster and Delaware trains at Rondout Station in the morning-. ■**!$*$:€;*«- CHAPTER V. HINTS AND HELPS. WHERE a part of the journey to any desired resort is to be made by " private conveyance," as will be found noted in Chapter , IV, in some cases, it is wise to arrang-e before- hand for such conveyance, and understand what the charge will be. Many houses away from the stag-e-lines have their own teams and make no additional charg^e for the service; but some do not, and depend upon their neig-hbors' teams, which have to be paid for. A complete understanding- as to money matters is so important as to make the difference, for some people, between happiness and misery for the whole season. " Be wise in time," as saith the proverb. 24 THE CATSKILLS. Accommodations may be had at the houses mentioned in this book at from $5 a week to $4 a day. It should not be expected that the low-priced houses give the same accommodations, or set as varied a table, as the hig-h-priced ones. Those who make the lower prices are farm houses, as a rule, where the business of life is farming-, and boarders are taken for the few weeks of the boarding- season to help along. The fare at these houses is good, wholesome and abundant. The variety found on the tables of the larger hotels should not be ex- pected, nor should their complete appointments in service and fur- nishings be looked for. Another class of houses are the larger board- ing houses, charging middle rates. These are devoted wholly to en- tertaining guests, and stand empty and idle nine months of the year. Remembering this the higher rates are not exorbitant. The larger hotels are the equals of any in the world in comfort and elegant fur- nishings, and in the bill of fare. Their distance from the markets adds much to the cost of all that is served, and the charg^es are not more than in city hotels who receive their supplies at their doors. The one thing necessary to a happy sojourn in the Catskills is con- tentmcnt and this the visitor must supply. Therefore it is wise to choose your boarding house or hotel, from such a class as will meet your desires, and the advertised price per week is a good guide as to what may be reasonably looked for, for competition is keen and prices have been scaled down close to living rates. In the matter of clothing, it should be remembered that as a rule the nights are cool among the mountains and light wraps are very desirable soon after sundown. Woolen clothing throughout is the rule of the wise and prudent who believe in prevention rather than cure. Since it has been decided that it is change from the usual routine as well as change of air that brings rest and refreshing, it would seem to be wise to avoid, so far as possible, the carrying of one's usual occupations into the mountains. Still this is just what many people do. The idea seems to be to get out of the life one usually lives, and into a new and different one for the time being. This should be a part of the planning for the summer vacation. Try to leave all of the old life at home with its cares, and enter fully into the peculiar pleasures of an outdoor life " in close communion with Nature " as saith the poet. An old farmer and boarding-house keeper said a few days ago, "They tell me that if I should go to the city for a spell and act as my boarders do when they come here that I would be in the 'jug' in- side of ten minutes, and I wouldn't blame 'em a mite if I was." One hopes this is an exaggeration for the sake of the good breeding- which prevails among- city folk at home, and that whatever breach of g-ood FEKRIS'S HANDBOOK. 25 manners may occur is due rather to exuberance of spirits rather than to the fact that the "Golden Rule" has been left at home. Don't forget it. Be sure you have it with you, for it is like the enchanter's wand turninaf all to sfold that it touches. CHAPTER VI. THE WESTERN C A T S K I I, L S . IHE name "Western Catskills " has been g-iven to the regfion lying- west of the rang-e marked by High Peak opposite the Kaaterskill Hotel at one end and the Westkill Chain at the other. It is of later development than the old Catskill Mountain House reg-ion and the section about Cairo and Windham, dating- from the time of the opening- of the Ulster and Delaware R. R. in 1870. There was some travel here before that by stag-es, but the region g-enerally was made accessible by this railroad, which is to-day its only thoroug-hfare, so far as the summer visitor is concerned. This part of the Catskills is nearer to New York in point of time as well as distance excepting- at the more distant points on the rail- road. The entrance is by way of King-ston Point, if one makes the trip up the Hudson by the Day Line steamers, which, in itself, is a most delig-htful experience to add to the summer vacation, with not only a saving- in expense of travel, but also a great saving- in fatig-ue for many, and the freedom from the annoyances of dust and noise in- cident to railway travel. At King-ston Point the Day Boat lands its passeng-ers on one side of the wharf and the Ulster and Delaware train stands just across on the other side ready to start for the mountains without a moment's loss of time. This arrang-ement was consummated last season for the first and the g-reat savings in time over the previous plan of landing- at Rhinebeck and taking- the ferry across was appreciated by all who came this way. It is quite certain, too, that this new atten- tion of the Day Line to the comfort and convenience of its pa- trons will be well repaid in the increase of travel by its deservedly popular steamers. Let us follow the route of the railroad as it leaves the King-s- ton Point wharf on its way to the mountains. For a short distance we are upon a trestle and soon are along-side of the Rondout Creek 26 THE CATSKILLS. HUDSON RIVER AND MOUTH OF RONDOUT CREEK. IN THE DISTANCE. RHINECLIFF with its great variety of shipping- craft, from the needle-like " shell" of the boat club up to the commodious steamers of the Romer and Tremper Line ; from the bum- boat and the f e r r y m an ' s wherry to the spick and span steam yacht waiting- the return of its owner from the mountains. A brief stop is made at the R o n d o u t sta- tion for such passengers as may have come over by the ferry from the Rhinebeck station on the New York Central R. R. across the river, and then the train begins a climb up the Rondout cliffs winding- this way and that to g-ain the desired g-rade. Glimpses of the river and the Rondout Creek, more or less extended, are caug-ht as the train moves onward and upward in its tortuous course. Finally after a series of rocky cuts we come out into the open upland. To the left on an emi- nence stands the King-ston City Hall, its high tower com- manding- a wonderful view of the Catskill Mountains, the whole southern facade being in full view far be- yond the city. It is easily visit- ed from the King-ston sta- tion and any one who has an hour to wait cannot employ it to better advantag-e. The trolley cars take you from the station to the entrance of the City Hall in five minutes. RONDOUT CREEK AND HUDSON RIVER LOOKING SOUTH, FROM THE CLIFFS AT RONDOUT. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 27 Passing- this and the busy factory of the Peckham Car Truck Works we cross the tracks of the West Shore R. R. and come to a stop at King-ston station. Here the Wallkill Valley R. R. has its northern terminus and from this road and the West Shore many pas- seng-ers are added to our numbers. It has been thoug^ht best to follow the routes of the railroads in this book as most visitors will travel in that way. There are a few who ride throug^h the mountains in private conveyances, and for these there are numberless beautiful views which the railroad traveler never sees. But we are a nation of railroaders, and few of us could stand a fifty-mile or even a thirty-mile drive, and retain the capacity for enjoying- the beautiful in Nature. At each station, therefore, we shall alight and visit each point of interest in the vicinity, with such chat as may make our way the more entertaining-. Here and there it will be necessary to diverg^e considerably to climb a mountain, or to make a day trip, but we shall return ag-ain to the railroad station to resume the journey and make it practically continuous for those who do not stop over. At King-ston there are several objects of interest to those his- torically inclined, and many visitors to the Catskills arrange to spend a day in this city. Many old stone houses are scattered throughout the western part of the city, dating- back to the last century. The one house left untouch- ed at the burning- of King-ston in 1777 is still in excellent preservation. The Senate House built in 1676, and in which the first constitution of the State of New York was drawn up and adopted, is now the property of the State, and has become the treasure-house of a g-reat number of articles of historical interest. The g-raveyard of the old Dutch Reformed Church is another spot visited by many antiquarians. Its quaint old tomb-stones, some of them grotesquely shaped slabs of blue-stone with Dutch inscriptions, bear records reaching over sev- eral generations. A favorite day trip from King-ston is to Lake Mohonk, which unique resort demands a chapter of its own. OLD SENATE HOUSE, KINGSTON. 28 THE CATSKILLS. LAKE MOHONK MOUNTAIN HOUSE. CHAPTEP VII. LAKE MOHONK AND LAKE MINNEWASKA. LAKE MOHONK with its peculiar attractions lies southwest of King-ston, about eig"hteen miles distant. It is reached by the Wallkill Valley R. R. to New Paltz station, and thence by stage; or the trip may be made with great enjoyment in a private conveyance, one route lying- throug-h Hurley, Marbletown and Stone Ridg-e. At the last named place is the summer home of Francis H. Leg-g^ett of New York City, — an eleg-ant estate. Lake Mohonk is the only place of its kind, a sort of g-athering- tog-ether in one spot of all that g-oes to make up the attractively wild in Nature. The phase "in miniature" has been used in de- scribing- its scenery, but there is no feeling- of littleness about it. Everything- is massive and gfrand, and while the lake looks small viewed from certain points, it is only from contrast with features which are larg-e. Then, ag-ain, no part of this region is out of reach. The heights are accessible to those who are not strong, the chasms and clefts may be traversed without weariness, and yet lose nothing of their impressive character, because they are within the compass of ordinary ability, and do not require the strength and endurance of a giant. And it may be said here that nowhere else is so much brought so close together, and within such easy reach of comfort- able enjoyment. FEKRIS'S HANDBOOK. 29 In this brief chapter it is possible only to hint at the multitude of interesting- objects at Lake Mohonk. The lake itself, a little more than half a mile in length and perhaps half that in width — guessing- at distances across water is not satisfactory, — is fed by spring-s, and the water is of a deep eiiifnild i^rrcn, very beautiful when the light is favorable. Its shores r . „ ^ are wonderfully pic- r turesque, being most- r ly of rock, either g reaching- hig-h up 6 into perpendicular > cliffs and crag-s, or a j tumbled confusion of immense fragments, the rug-g-edness only partially draped with the foliag-e of such veg-etation as can find a living- among- the crevices. And yet along- this wild and savag-e shore are numerous landinj^ places, some natural, some artificial, all delightfully interest- ing- in detail. The mountain peak "Sky-top" is the other principal feature of the spot. It rises almost directly from the shore of the lake, cliffs piled upon cliffs into a precipice. From its summit, which stands alone, the view is far reaching- in all directions. Toward the north the whole southern fa?ade of the Catskill Mountains is spread out in g-rand array, distant about twenty-five miles. At the right hand end of the group is North Mountain lying- beyond the old Cats- kill Mountain House and North Lake; then, passing- toward the left, is the peak of the Overlook, with its g-reat mountain house half a mile to the left of the summit. Then still further left is Indian Head, and then Twin Mountain, then Mink Mountain (or Sug-ar Loaf) and then the bold lines of the deep pass of Mink Hollow. Next to the left is Plateau Mountain and then Hunter Mountain, the hig-hest of that g-roup. The next very hig-h peak is Big- West Kill Mountain. The more distant peaks are scarcely distinguish- LOOKING DOWN THE LAKE. 30 THE CATSKILLS. able. Of the group on the left of the wide valley of the Esopus Creek up which we have been looking-, Hig-h Point at Shokan is the nearest and most prominent, and back of this is the hig"h Wittenberg- chain of five peaks, and Panther Mountain to the rig-ht in the distance. To the left of Hig-h Point are Peakamoose and Table Mountain. The Neversink > Mountains carry \ the eye around still i further west to where the Pike County mountains m Pennsylvania usurp the sky-line. Toward the south- west are the Sha- wang-unks with their quaint con- ""■'■-" ""^ trastsof g-entlyslop- PROFLE ROCK. [ng woodlauds and abrupt rocky cliffs. Lake Minnewaska, a resort similar in character to Lake Mohonk, lies seven miles away, its larg-e houses in full view. The other quadrant of our circle of vision is over lowlands cov- ered with farms noted for their rich and g-enerous returns to the farmer's toil. The view depends larg-ely upon the condition of the atmosphere; when clear, reaching- the hills of Berkshire County in Massachusetts toward the east, and north of these the Green Moun- tains of Vermont. With this superb outlook only half an hour's easy walk from the hotel, the fascinating- allurements, which, for the human race, invest every body of water, and doubly so this gem of a lake in a setting- of Nature's own repousse, and natural curiosities in cliffs, g-org-es, crevices, caves, waterfalls, crag-s, and all the other peculiar features of mountain and forest, in bewildering- profusion, — with all this as one may say, within arm's reach, what wonder that the hotel here has expanded almost into a small villag-e, one house being- built FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 31 ag"aitist another until it is over an eig^hth of a mile long-, as pic- turesque as the Swiss idea can make it. The house is noted for strict total abstinence, not alone from spirituous liquors, but also from " the noisy nuisance of interminable dancing, bawling" and racketing- that make our American watering- places the disg-ust of all quiet souls," as one visitor expresses it. These wholesome restrictions determine the standard of character of the gruests, as such may be expressed in deportment, and Mr. Smiley, the proprietor, is now reaping- the reward of his wisdom in making- these rules long- ag-o, in the fact that the g-uests at Lake Mohonk are of the best people in the land. With such an environment, animate and inanimate, who could not pass a season of rest peacefully and happily beside this mountain lake? LAKE MINNEWASKA. Lake Minnewaska, as before mentioned, is a resort similar in characteristics to Mohonk. It lies on the top of the same rang-e of mountains, seven miles southwest of Mohonk, and is surrounded by very much the same extraordinary scenery. There are two houses here, the Cliff House, on the top of the cliffs at the eastern side of the Lake, 150 feet above the water, and the Wildmere House at the northern end of the Lake perhaps 100 feet lower. The elevation of the Cliff house is 1800 feet above the sea level, commanding- mag-ni- ficent views in all directions, embracing- the mountains along- the northern border of New Jersey on the south; the Hig-hlands of the Hudson and Newburg-h Bay toward the southeast; the Housatonic Mountains of Connecticut toward the east; the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts and the Green Mountains of Vermont toward the northeast; the Helderberg-s toward the north, the Catskills toward the northwest; and the Neversink and Shawang-unk Hills toward the west. Lake Minnewaska is larg-er than Lake Mohonk, and while similar to it, has its own individual features which are eag-erly explored, not only by its own g-uests, but as well by parties who come over to spend the day, sometimes to the number of forty or fifty on a sing-le day. The romantic Awasting- Falls are about a mile from the Cliff House and well repay a visit at any time, doubly so when the water is hig-h. The Cascades of the Peterskill are very interesting-, and clefts, crevices and caves g-ive g-reat variety of interest to the rock formations, natural and accidental. With these may be mentioned the g-reat cliffs of the Millbrook Mountains near at hand with their sheer precipices five hundred feet hig-h, and nearer still the Palmag-- halt and its g-iant hemlocks. 32 THE CATSKILLS. The g-uests at Lake Minnewaska belong" to the same class as those at Mohotik, and here also those of refined and moral tastes may enjoy a peacefully happy rest free from the annoyances expe- rienced at resorts where the restrictions are less string-ent. [Note. — It is with great regret that the publisher is obliged to announce that the illustrations to accompany this brief article on Lake Minnewaska did not arrive in time to be used.] -5«-$S€i$!S«- CHAPTER VIII. LAKE AIOSKAWASTING. THIS charming- lake lies three miles southwest of Lake Minne- waska. It is two miles in leng-th and half a mile wide at the widest part, covering- about five hundred acres, or nearly ten times as larg-e as Lake Minnewaska. It is located upwards of 2000 feet above the sea level, and in scenery resembles the other lakes,— Mohonk and Minnewaska, — on this mountain rang-e. This lake, too, has its lofty peak of outlook in Hig-h Point, which is several hundred feet higher than "Sky Top," at Mohonk. The surrounding- woodlands abound with natural curiosities of rocks and waterfalls, caverns and cascades. There is a house of twelve rooms near the foot of the lake at which family parties are entertained during- the season. Address H. D. Darrow, 67 Albany Ave., Kingston, N. Y. This lake and a larg-e tract of woodland surrounding is now for sale, and as it is practically wild and undeveloped it is hoped that it will fall into the hands of such men as the Messrs. Smiley, of Mohonk and Minnewaska, and be converted to a hig-h class resort like those places. [Note. — See advertisement in back of this book.] FEKRIS\S HANDBOOK. 33 CHAPTER IX. WEST HURLEY, GLENFORD, WOODSTOCK, BEAKSVILLE, SHADY AND MEAd's. RESUMING our journey at the King-ston station, after the day trip to Mohonk, we have a few minutes to look about before the train leaves, while perhaps the throug"h cars from Phila- delphia, New York and other points are being- switched from the West Shore R. R. tracks to become a part of the Ulster and Delaware train for the mountains. Obedient to the impulse which has brought us thus far in search of the mountains, we turn our g-aze instinctively toward the north, where the great masses of blue reach up into the sky. This view is oblique to the trend of the eastern fagade of the mountains and the peaks push out one beyond another until Round Top, opposite Cairo, is reached. The g-reat Overlook Mountain, the southeasternmost corner of the g"roup, is nearest, with its big- hotel boastfully upon its shoulder. Just beyond, to the rig-ht, is Plattekill Mountain, then, still further east, Hig-h Peak, then South Mountain with the g-reat Kaaterskill Hotel perched lightly upon its breast, and just beyond the rolling curve of South Mountain the old Catskill Mountain Hotel, the pioneer hotel of the reg^ion. Back of this famous hotel and reaching- hig-h above it, is seen North Mountain, and finally Cairo Round Top. Leaving- Kingston station the train descends rapidly to the ''Lowlands," a broad and fertile plain stretching- on both sides of the Esopus Creek for many miles. Across this level we see ag-ain the same array of mountain peaks becoming- bluer and bluer in the distance. One by one they disappear behind the precipitous slopes of the Overlook. The Fair Street station at the northern edge of the city is passed, and then a mile bring-s us to Esopus Creek, whose slug-gish current and banks of black mud convey no idea of the brisk and dashing mountain stream which we shall find it when we next see it at Brodhead's Bridg-e. Now the actual climb to the heig-hts begins, and we are soon up on the ledg-es of Stony Hollow looking- down upon the blue-stone wag-ons making- their way toilsomely to tide water at Rondout or Wilbur. A mile or two further and we stop at West Hurley station. The villag-e of West Hurley lies south of the railroad a short quarter of a mile. It is a quiet rural villag-e scattered along- on both 34 THE CATSKILLS. sides of one long- street. Several stores and churclies, two hotels WEST HURLEY P o ^^^ ^ ^^^ boarding- houses are to be found jj, g-|-_P „„ n. Y here, and it is also the station for visitors g-oing- to Mead's, Woodstock, Glenford, Bearsville and Shady, and one route to Lake Hill, which is usually reached by way of Mt. Pleasant. Taking- the road south from the station we g-o over to the main street turn the corner to the left and cross the street to Marcus Lane's Hotel. Here are accommodations for fifty. Day rate $1.50. Special rates by the week or month. A g-ood livery at reasonable rates. Alfred Bonesteel's is a quarter of a mile further east on this road, which leads to Kingston. Room for ten. Apply. From the road near this house there is a remarkably fine view of the Wittenberg Chain beyond Shokan. The five peaks are distinct and the right hand peak is the Wittenberg. Next toward the left is Mt. Cornell, then Spruce Top, then Fourth Mountain and the Fifth Mountain. This completes the chain. Slide Mountain looms up be- tween Mt. Cornell and Spruce Top. To the left of this group are Table Mountain and Peekamoose, then alone toward the left is High Point. To the right of the Wittenberg chain is Tysteneyck, then to- ward the right Little Toinje, Big Toinje, Oleberg away back beyond Lake Hill, Mink Mountain, (or Sugar Loaf) then Twin Mountain, Indian Head and the Overlook on the extreme right. The village lies prettily in the foreground. A short distance further (toward Kingston) is a road turning to the right, leading across the railroad track to Geo. Rowe's. Room here for fifteen. $5 a week. A few rods further on the main road is C. E. Brink's hotel, at the junction with the road to Woodstock. $1.50 per day. Returning now to Lane's Hotel we take this same road in the opposite or westerly direction, passing the post-office, within a few steps, and the several stores. The first turn toward the right leads to the Reformed church. A short walk further is the Methodist church, and across the street, close by, is Mrs. N. J. Barton's, with room for ten. Apply for terms. There is also a Roman Catholic church a long mile down the road toward Stony Hollow. Now we return to the railroad station for a new start northward toward Woodstock. The view up the track is interesting, the Wittenberg group filling in the background handsomely. A little way out we have a fine view of the mountains again, this time with the head of the great Beaverkill swamp for a foreground. Twin Mountain shows from here as a single peak of peculiarly bold out- line, the southernmost peak hiding the other. Those who have seen FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 35 Mount Colviti, in the Adirondacks, from St. Hubert's Inn, will be struck with the likeness of this view of Twin Mountain. LOOKING NORTHWARD OVER THE BEAVERKILL SWAMP. About a mile out toward Woodstock the Glenford road turns off toward the left. _, ,-K,-^„r^ „ ^ About a mile and a half farther on this GLENFORD P. U., iiic-rcDo/-» M V roa-d we come to Mrs. I. H. Moore's. Room Ul-o I tn KjD., in. Y. for twenty. $5 to $7. A. A. Castle's is next. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Then comes Walter Lee's, with room for thirty. Apply. Wm. Yerry's is next. Room for twenty-five. Apply. This bring-s us to the post-office, three miles from the West Hurley station. Just beyond is Samuel Brower's with room for thirty. $5 to $7. Georg-e Brower's is next. Room for ten. $5 to $7. Then John D. Brower's. Room for fifteen. Apply. Hiram Austen's is next. He takes ten. $5 to $7. Wallace Lee's is next. Room for twelve. $5 to $7. This road is now rapidly approaching- Olive Branch, and as the remaining- houses are nearer that station they will be noticed in the next chapter. From near the Glenford P. O. a road runs northeasterly to the Woodstock road, along- the foot of the Beaverkill Mountain. On this road are three boarding- houses. William Moore's is first. Room for fifteen. Apply. Chas. Burkins's is next, with room for ten. Apply. Henry Johnson's is third. He takes ten. Apply. We may follow on this road to Woodstock, but for our purpose it is best to return to the Woodstock road where we diverg-ed to g-o to Glenford. From this point we g-o on toward Woodstock for a long- half-mile, to Mrs. E. J. Lane's. Room for twenty. Apply. 36 THE CATSKILI.S. Nathan Wolven's is close by. Room for ten. Apply. Half a mile further is Eug-ene Vredenburg-h's. Room for fifteen. Apply. This is the last of the West Hurley houses, and we are now approaching- Woodstock. The Overlook Mountain becomes larg-er as we approach it, and the big- hotel becomes more and more distinct, and the Lookout Tower on top of the mountain is plainly in view. The eastern slope of this mountain is peculiarly bold and rug-g-ed owing- to several perpendicular cliffs. Mead's Mountain House too is visible, apparently on a spur of the Overlook directly under Mink Mountain. The Beaverkill Mountain is on the left, its wild ledg-es affording- a foothold for many pines. On the rig-ht the fields show a g-ood many red cedars, their russet pyramids showing- rich among- the tamer pines and hemlocks, and g-iving- a fine balsamic spice to the air. Rounding- a curve in the road and rising- a slight hill we come into view of Woodstock, situated in a beautiful valley, protected on the north by the towering- Overlook Mountain which seems hig-her than ever. Now we beg-in to descend, and soon have a view down the valley toward the west. The fine peak near by on the left is Tysteneyck; Mount Tobias is on the rig-ht and at the end closing- the WOODSTOCK P O outlook, is Samuels' Point beyond Boiceville. jj, g-pcD CO N Y "^^^^ before entering- the villag-e a pretty stream is crossed where there is a water- fall, making- a most pleasing- picture as one looks up stream. The larg-e and comfortable house close by on the rig-ht is A. N. Riseley's, four miles and a half from the West Hurley station. Here is room for seventy-five boarders. Apply for terms. The stream over which we came is the Sawkill, which supplies the city of King-ston with water. The reservoirs are a mile below Woodstock. The road leading- down past Riseley's is a shorter way to King-ston than the one we have come. Half a mile down this road is Alvah Lasher's. Room for ten. Apply. Going- toward the villag-e the next house is Jas. Lasher's, with room for fifteen. Apply. Just beyond, a road turns in to a larg-e stone house standing- back from the road. This is C. J. Hog-an's. Room for twenty-five. Apply. A short distance further is the Lutheran Church on the left, a pretty, modern building-. The hotel is across the street a little further on, kept by Wm. F. Van Natten. Transients, $2 a day. By the week, $7 to $10. Ac- commodations for seventy. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 37 The road to Mead's, McDaniers and the Overlook turns off just along-side of the hotel. A superb white birch tree, of an uncommon species may be seen in a yard on the rig-ht as we g^o on to Mead's. The way is interesting-. The fields begin to show outcropping ledg-es and many little brooks tumblings down over them in miniature cas- cades. Mead's is nearly 1500 feet above Woodstock, and tke road is steep and zig--zag-. But the views are fine, and the " thank-ye- marms " are numerous, and g-ive one a chance to look about. Nearly a mile up, the road swing-s toward the west and a fine view of Wood- stock is enjoyed. The cemetery is in full view, looking more popu- lous than the villag-e, a fact explained by the numerous interments of persons who, havings seen and loved the pretty villag-e in life, have turned toward it with longing for its peaceful quiet when the end came. Far away toward the south just visible, to the left of the Beaverkill Mountain are blue hills, and some one says, " Oh, there is Mohonk! See, Sky Top and Eag-le Cliff, and the notch where the lake is, etc., etc." But it isn't, althoug-h it looks so very like it. This is one of those strang-e mimicries previously mentioned. As we g-et up hig-her we shall see Mohonk lying- to the right of its peculiar " double " now in view. For another mile the road climbs hig-her and higher, but at last the summit is reached and Mead's is there, as it has been for 32 years, when its visitors came to Rondout by the Day Boats and were brought out here the rest of the way by stag-e, reaching- the house ten or eleven o'clock at night. In those days, Mr. Mead says, people were g-lad to get away from railroads and were content with mail three times a week ; now they want a railroad station rig-ht in front of the house, mail every hour and a teleg-raph within reach of the bed. He deplores the "pace" at which the present generation lives, and loves to talk of the "old times." There is room here for seventy-five. Terms $7 to $10. Address, Georg-e Mead, Woodstock, N. Y. Just in front of Mead's house the road to the Overlook turns up the mountain for two miles more. The hotel will probably not be opened this season, but many visitors will go up for the marvelous view, considered by many to be unequalled. The road passing- Mead's leads down into Bristol valley, turning- soon toward the west. Just after leaving Mead's the scenery is of the grandest. We are close by the rug-ged slopes of Twin Mountain and Indian Head. The foreg-round is wild and in keeping-, and the scene is full of interest. As the road turns toward the left, westward — a handsome valley view is presented. Half a mile down from Mead's is Nat. McDaniels'. This house has been much changed since last season and now accommodates sixty. Apply. 38 'rH:E catskills. We may continue down this valley to Shady, two miles away, but a traveller bound for Shady would not have come up to Mead's, so let us return to Woodstock and take the road in that valley running" westward. Starting- from Van Natten's hotel we note the Reformed church close by, standing opposite the road from West Hurley, and blocking- a direct way, so we travel due south for a short distance, passing the ruins of Dr. Smith's well-known house, burned the past winter. This house will be sadly missed by many who have come to it for years for their vacation. Soon we turn again toward the west ; but the southerly bound roads leads on to another house. 1 "' ! ' ■ f ■ warn M LOOKING TOWARD BEARSVILLE FROM THE WOODSTOCK ROAD. E. T. Neher's is up against the Beaverkill Mountain on this road. Room for fifteen. Apply. Returning to the main road we go on to Bearsville, through a pretty country, — a distance of two miles. Here ULSTER CO N y' ^^ ^ "meeting" of waters," where the trout brooks join, and there is some material for the artists' pencil as well. Mrs. J. F. Miller's is the only house here taking boarders. Room for ten. Apply. Two miles further, on the Lake Hill road, ULSTER CO N Y ^^^ich turns off to the right just over the bridge, ' " ' is Shady, a little village in a narrow winding valley with a rushing stream, which supplies power for several small saw-mills at intervals along its route. Here is E. L. Simpson's house, with room for twenty. $6 to $8. A mile beyond Shady is Lake Hill, ten miles from West Hurley ; but as this place is usually reached from Mount Pleasant, it will be described in that chapter. Cooper's Lake lies between Shady and Lake Hill, and in times of drought the lake is tapped and an addi- tional supply of water for Kingston goes tumbling over the rocks down through Shady and into the Sawkill, doubling its volume. FKRRIS'S HANDBOOK. 39 MARBLETOWN P. O., From West Hurley southward lies Mar- ULSTER CO. N. Y. bletown at a distance of four miles. At that place Aaron Krom has accommoda- tions for forty. Apply. There are many pleasant rides from both West Hurley and Woodstock. The roads are good averag-e country roads, and the horses quite satisfactory. ^*$$ €;$:*«- CHAPTER X. OI.IVE; BRANCH. THE three miles between West Hurley and Olive Branch are quickly passed over. Some pretty views are had across the Beaverkill Swamp which lies to the right of the track with occasional open water, and glimpses of the mountains ahead excite the interest of a traveler bound for the heights. The Beaverkill Mountain with its craggy terraces soon shuts out the Overlook group, and gradually gains height and mass culminating in the peak called Big Toinje. At Olive Branch station we are opposite this peak which presents its broad side to us. After we reach Shokan we shall see it edgewise with a very different outline. Little Toinje lies toward the west looking quite insignificant, a mere hill. From this point Tysteneyck seems to stand back of the Toinje ridge, and perhaps it is this that dwarfs its noble height of 2600 feet. But to those tourists who are afflicted with that disordered imagination which delights in finding the distorted form of an ele- phant, or crocodile, floating as a cloud in the sky, and sees all sorts of horrid menagerie beasts, birds and reptiles, ancient and modern, in rock and tree and mountain outline, Tysteneyck from here is "so interesting, you know," because it is supposed to resemble a recum- bent tiger who lies with his head between his forepaws, — in wait, let us hope, for these same misguided people, to devour once and for all their peculiar mental affliction. A feature of this locality is Temple Pond, covering about one ASH TON P O hundred acres and affording most enjoyable ^l_g-p^P QQ ^ Y recreation in boating and fishing. It lies at the foot of Big Toinje and nearly 100 feet higher than the village. 40 THE CATSKILLS. The post office name here is Ashton, located in the store just across the road from the station. Eastward this road leads to West Hurley and Kingfston ; westward to Olive and Shokan. Near the station on the King-ston road is D. Ballard's. Room for fifteen. Apply. Alex. Bog-art's is half a mile down this road. Room for ten. $6. Frank Kubeschta's is on a branch road to the south. Room for thirty. $6 to $8. Returning- to the station we take the Shokan road. At a short quarter of a mile we find two houses. Cyrus Van Hoevenberg-h's is on the left. Room for ten. Apply. Joseph Moylan's is on the right; room for twenty-five. Apply. At the corner of Moylan's lot the road turns to the rig-ht to Temple Pond, which is a mile from this corner. A short distance out is the Methodist Church. A. Simmons's is close by. Room for fifteen. Apply. C. H. Russell's is at the corner, where the road to Glenford and Woodstock crosses; the rig-ht to Woodstock, the left to Shokan. Room for ten. Apply. A. B. Terwillig-er's is across the road. Room for twelve. Apply. Half a mile beyond is B. Buley's. Room for twenty. Apply. C. H. Warren's is a mile further, and on the way we pass Temple Pond at its lower end, g-etting- a pretty view of Hig-h Point with reflections in the water. Room for thirty. Apply. Returning- to the Glenford road we find John Lennox's half a mile from the corner, with accommodations for twenty. Apply Joseph Boice's is close by. Room for eight. Apply. A short distance beyond is J. G. Baker's. Room for twenty. Apply. From here the houses at Glenford come along- one after another, so close that there is practically no natural dividing- line between the two places. Returning- to the Shokan road at Moylan's, we may go on west- ward toward Olive P. O. which is about two miles from this corner. S. Phillips's is the first house, close by on the rig-ht. Room for twenty. $7 and $8. D. J. Elmendorf's is a few rods further. Room for twenty. $6. Wm. Dingman's is next, about half a mile from the station. Room for twenty-five. Apply. OLiVF p o The next houses on this road are at Olive ULSTER CO N Y nearly two miles away. On the way we pass a branch road toward the rig-ht which leads to L. Eckert's. Room for fifteen. M. Bishop's is next. Room for fifteen. Apply. FERRIS'S HANnBOOK. 41 S. Keog-an's is next, about a quarter of a mile from the post office. Room for twenty. Apply. E. H. Bog-art's is on a branch road leading- northward. Room thirty. Apply. A. C. Davis's is next to the post office building-. Room for twenty- five. Apply. A short mile from the post office toward Shokan, the "Hog-'s Back" is reached, a hig-h ridg-e from which fine views may be enjoyed. The "Old School" Baptist church occupies a site on the summit of this ridg-e. By this road Shokan is distant two miles and it is about the same to Brown's Station. CHAPTER XI. brown's station. FROM Olive Branch to Brown's station the railroad traverses the lower end of the extensive Beaverkill swamp, which lies diag-- onally across the line of the railroad. This "swamp" is afresh water marsh kept wet by multitudinous springs, and is very rich in variety of wild plants, especially certain rare species of lilies. It is always interesting-, even from the car windows, on account of its wealth of wild flowers. For more than two miles the rails are as straig^ht as the proverbial bee-line and the train makes its top speed on this stretch. A mile before Brown's station i s reached, the track curves to the left as if for a fair start, and then beg-ins to swing- to the rig-ht on a g-rand curve nearly four miles long-, chang-ing- its direction from a few points west of south to nearly due north at Shokan. H' ? BROWN'S STATION. HIGH POINT IN THE DISTANCE. 42 THE CATSKILLS. Rising- from the level of the "swamp," a fine rolling- plateau is reached and the trainman calls out "This Station is Brown's — Brown's Station." The scenery here is fine, with a peculiarity of its own. High Point and the more distant Wittenberg range, or Bush- kill Mountains, as they are often called, form an effective background of blue distance, against which the picturesque foreground cuts warm and strong with no visible middle distance. This toward the west and northwest. Tysteneyck stands in the north looking- five hundred feet higher than at Olive Branch. To the northeast is the Overlook Mountain with Indian Head and Twin Mountain to the left. The long famous Winchell's Falls is a mile and a half away toward the south, now the site of the Hudson River Pulp Works, where is made a cer- tain kind of wood pulp to be used ex- clusively in the pro- duction of dynamite. A fine dam has been built across the stream, which while not as picturesque as Nature's handiwork, has not ruined the fall by any means. Below the mill about half a mile, the stream runs through a deep rocky gorge which may be entered and traversed in the summer when the water is low. This is one of the sights of the region, and is visited by many people from all the country near. Brown's Station has been "discovered," and already two resi- dents of the Greater New York have built tasteful cottages here, and three more are planned for this season. The freedom of cottage life in the mountains is becoming more and more appreciated, and those who can make an extended stay are g-radually g-etting into their own homes and making room in the boarding houses for the ever-increas- ing pilg-rim band in search of rest and chang-e. It may be well to remark just here, that it was not of the Catskills that the disap- pointed traveller said that in his experience the waiters g-ot the "change," and the landlord, the "rest." At Brown's Station one finds the post of&ce, station and g-eneral store all under one roof. THE GRAND GORGE OF THE ESOPUS. FKRRIS'S HANDBOOK. 43 The nearest house is Mrs. H. M. Schryver's which is soonest reached by keeping- on up the track, if one is wary, to the first road BROWN'S STATION P. O. crossing", and there you are. Room for yi_gj^P QQ f^ Y sixteen. $5 and $6. This house may be reached, with. more propriety, by takings the road in the rear of the store and gfoing west, toward Hig-h Point, to the school house on the corner of the road to Shokan; thence to the rig-ht to the railroad. Turning to the left at the school house we pass the new Method- ist church, then a pretty and snug- private cottag-e, and then to Brown's Farm House on the bank of the Beaverkill, Here Albert Brown has room for twenty-five. $6 and $7. Crossing- the Beaverkill, a romantic stream with an old mill ac- cessory, we climb a decided hill throug-h a wood full of chip- mnunks and ever- g-reens for half a mile to Edwin Burhans's with room for fif- teen. Apply. We have now reached the hig-hest land b e t w e en the Beaverkill and the E sop us, and this height commands a remarkable view in all directions but the north. This is a favorite lookout for visitors in this neighborhood, and the sunsets seen from here are worthy of special mention. Down the hill we go, toward Winchell's Falls, a quarter of a mile to Philip Lasher's. Room for twenty. $7. Another quarter of a mile brings us to the falls and the Pulp Works. Turning to the left and following down the stream the " Grand Gorge " of the Esopus is reached. Returning to the station for a new start, we take the road north- ward which leads to Olive, and thence to Woodstock by way of Glenford, or to Kingston by the right hand road at the fork. Thos. Carson's is on a branch of this road half a mile away. Room for 'twenty-five. $6 and $7. On the Shokan road are several houses. Crossing the railroad at Mrs. Schryver's and going northward we find at the distance of half a mile, Wm. Winn's. Room for thirty-five. Apply. Mrs. S.'Steenburgh's is a little further. Room for fifteen. Apply. BROWN'S FARM HOUSE. 44 THE CATSKILLS. The next houses on this road are reached more comfortably from Brodhead's Bridg-e. A pleasant drive from Brown's station is to Bishop's Falls at Olive Bridg-e, about a mile and a half. The return may be made by a cross road coming- out at Wm. Winn's; and a stop should be made at the Palen House on the edg-e of the bluff to see the mag-nificent view from that spot. CHAPTER XII. BRODHEAD'S BRIDGE, TONGORE, KRUMVILLE, SAMSONVILLE, KRIPPI^E BUSH. AFTER leaving- Brown's Station there is little to see from the car window until the bridg-e is reached at Brodhead's. Here we cross the Esopus ag-ain, now a wild mountain stream, at this point divided by Pine Island. Many larg-e pines add piquancy to the sky line of this landscape and the Bushkill Mountains fill in the backg-round handsomely. It beg-ins to dawn upon the observer that the Bushkill Mountains do a g-reat deal of excellent backg-round work. It is true; and they are never tame or unsatisfying- from any point of view. Their g-reat heig-ht, nearly 4,000 feet, and their bro- ken sky-line makes them always impres- sive. It is related that an applicant for the position of teacher in one of the neig-h- boring^ schools, on examination before the School Board was asked: "What mountains are loca- ted in the northern part of New York? " and straig-htway made answer, with more local patriotism than g-eographically exact- ness, "The Bushkill Mountains." The School Board, after a strug-- g-le between duty to the rising- g-eneration and local pride, decided not to accept this answer, and the fair applicant was "turned down." THE BRIDGE AT BRODHEAD'S, LOOKING WEST. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 45 Close by the station, whicli is also the post office, are two houses BRODHEAD'S BRIDGE taking boarders, both just across the track P. O., ULSTER CO. N. Y. ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^S^' , ^^ Miss Rachel Brodhead takes twelve. $/ . Edwin P. James has room for fifty. Apply. On the road to Shokan which crosses the track at the station, at the distance of a long- quarter of a mile, is H. Delamater's. Room for ten. Apply. The road following down the Esopus leads to Olive City (Olive Bridge P. O.), Tongore, Marbletown, Stone Ridge and so on to Lake Mohonk, which is a fine day trip from here, and many parties are made up during the summer to visit that noted resort. Just after leaving the station a road turns in to the right leading between Miss Brodhead's barn and the James house. About a mile on this road brings us to the crest of a knoll on which is James MacMillan's. Room for ten. Ap- ply- Passing down toward Olive City the store of Mr. D. W. Hover is found near by, and just beyond is his house with room for one hundred. $7. Sherman Allen's is next, on a branch brodhead-s bridge, looking north from the bridge. road turning to the right at the school house. This house is one mile from the station. Room for ten. $5. William Haver's is next, not far beyond the school house. Room for twenty. Apply. Olive Bridge P. O. is now at hand, one and one-fourth miles from the station at Brod- head's Bridge. Olive City is the name of the settlement. The post-office is in Locke's general store, at the corner where the Samsonville road turns off westward. By this road also, one may reach Krumville by turning to the south after passing Hollister's. Close by the store, on this road, is Hugh Locke's. Room for ten. Apply. OLIVE BRIDGE P. O., ULSTER CO., N. Y. 46 THE CATSKILLS. Lewis N. Hollister's is a mile out on this road. Room for twelve. Apply. At Krumville, four miles away, are the houses of Elisha Merrihew, with room for ten, and Benjamin Merrihew, with room for fifteen. Write them for terms, etc., to Krumville P. O., Ulster Co., N. Y. On the main road again, diag-onally across from the store is Virg-il Bishop's. Room for ten. Apply. On towards the falls, and at the foot of the hill up which g-oes the Tongore road, is C. Winne's. Room for eight. $6. The road going down along the brook and thence along the creek leads past the mills to the bridge from which a fine view of the falls may be had. At high water in the Spring or after a heavy rain, Bishop's Falls, as it is called, is very fine, and, except in a very dry season, when the mills are using all the water, it is always worth a visit. Taking the Tongore road up the hill from Winne's, we must pause at the top to enjoy the grand view northward, which includes the falls and a long stretch of the creek above them. Just over the top of the hill is De Forest Bishop's, two miles from the station at Brodhead's Bridge. Room for twenty. Apply. N. K. Davis's is nearly half a mile further, passing the Metho- dist Church on the way. Room for twelve. Apply. Jefferson Roosa's is next. Room for fifteen. $5. Jacob V. Merrihew's is next. Room for ten. Here a road turns off to the right leading to three more houses. Willis Davis takes ten. $5 and $6. T. W. Cornish takes ten. Apply. Walter North takes fifteen. $6. All this Tongore country is high and commands fine views from many points of outlook. Five miles beyond is Mrs. T. W. Roosa's at Kripple Bush P. O. Room for eight. $7. BISHOP'S FALLS, OLIVE BRIDGE. FgRRIs'S HANDBOOK. 47 Z. p. BOICE'S MILL YARD,— WEST SHOKAN BEYOND. BUSHKILL MOUNTAINS IN THE BACKGROUND. CHAPTER XII SHOKAN EAVING Brodhead's Bridge, the train starts on the last half- mile of the g-reat curve which beg^an four miles away, beyond Brown's station, and now swings fairly round among the moun- tains. High Point, which has been directly ahead for so many miles, is now on the left, looming up in magnificent proportions, graceful as well as massive, against the western sky. This great mountain covers an area of over twelve square miles and its top is 3,098 feet above the sea level. The view from its summit is grand; esteemed by some climbers above that from the Overlook. What may be seen is recounted in the following chapter. The trail is not diffi- cult and many visitors make a special trip to Shokan every Sum- mer to make the ascent. The majestic dome of Tysteneyck has been rounded and it is now east of us instead of north as at Brown's Station. Though not often visited there is a fine view to be had from its summit, 2600 above tide. It may be reached easiest by riding up into the pass between Toinje Hook and Tysteneyck and following up a wood road which goes nearly to the top. The view toward the Overlook, In- 48 THE CATSKILLS. dian Head and Twin Mountain is very impressive, the mountains seeming" very near and very high. Woodstock lies at one's feet, and the whole Woodstock Valley is spread out in full view. Just ahead of the train, as it speeds across the meadows between Brodhead's and Shokan, is a sin- g-ular plateau, nearly level, and fifty feet or more above the mead- ow extending- across the valley from east to west. This is known locally as the THE END OF THE GREAT CURVE IN THE CUT THROUGH THE OLD Dickouberg", dOUbt- SAND-BAR— ENTERING SHOKAN. MT. PLEASANT MTN. IN n name P^iven iu THE DISTANCE. _ _ » derision, "berg'"sig-- nifying mountain, but the orig"in of the name has been wholly lost and as the pronunciation of berg- was broad and flat, — almost " bar- rack," which is now reduced to "back," — Dickonback, — a story is now offered which fits well the new, and doesn't explain at all the old name. This "berg" is probably a g-reat sand bar, — a relic of the mighty river which doubtless rolled out upon the plains of Sho- kan from this great watershed of six hundred square miles in the days when the Catskill g-laciers melted before the rays of the newly unclouded sun; — the river whose deepest channel is now marked by the mettlesome Esopus which still g-athers its waters from Peak- amoose and Slide Mountain, from Big Indian and Belle Ayr, from the g-reat West Kill chain and the southern slopes of Hunter, from Stony Clove, Mink Hollow and the Overlook group, not to mention the nearer and more obvious sources. Throug-h this old sandbar the railroad cuts its way, and, passing- it, the peculiar beauty of the scenery of Shokan is spread before us. Nowhere else in the Catskills does the peaceful level of wide meadow lands combine so delig-htfuUy with the uplifted slopes of hig-h moun- tains, which dispose themselves in chains, peaks and passes around three-fourths of the sky line. It is no wonder that hundreds of city folk come here year after year for the season of rest. It is safe to prophesy that this Shokan country will some day be filled with private cottages for which there are sites innumerable. The purest of mountain air and water are here in abundance and the scenery is unexcelled. FERKIS S HANDBOOK. 49 NEW STATION AT SHOKAN. MT. PLEASANT MTN. IN THE DISTANC E TO THE RIGHT, SAMUEL'S POINT TO THE LEFT OF THE BUILDING. The handsome new station finished last fall has added much to the attractiveness of the place, the old building- having been demol- ished, and the grounds nicely graded. The station is at West Shokan village, a mile west of Shokan proper , — or "old Shokan" as it is often called. The post-office is at the store of Mathews and North close by the station ; the larg-est gen- eral store for many miles, in a larg-e and handsome building. Taking this section first, being the near- est, let us go westward from the station up the main street. There are several houses close at hand with a welcome for all comers till filled, — and after- ward " at a pinch." Mrs. O. A. Phillips is the nearest. Room for twelve. $6 to $8. Next door is the residence of Dr. Van Gaasbeek, the villag-e physician. Mrs. J. Hoyt is across the street. Room for six. Apply. E. R. Mathews's well-known Mountain Gate House is next, accommoda t i n g- twenty. This popular stopping- place i s com- pletely surround- ed with fruit trees, which af- ford g-rateful shade and pro- vide sturdy bran- ches, swinging- low for the ham- mocks. Fresh vegetables and mountain gate house, e. r. mathews. WEST SHOKAN P. O. ULSTER CO., N. Y. 50 THE CATSKILLS. fruit, milk, butter and eggs and other country dainties are produced on the place under the watchful eye of Mr. Mathews, whose g-ener- ous propensities find agreeable occupation in making- his g-uests comfortable and happy. Terms S6 to SS Watson Bishop's is 100 yards further on at the corner. Room for ten. S6 and S7. The main street ends here in a road running- nearly north and south, — northward to Watson Hollow and Peakamoose ; southward to Brodhead's Bridge, etc Turning to the left, — toward Brodhead's, — a branch road also turning to the left, leads to John Ennist's " Silver Brook House," not far from the railroad. Silver Brook, a favorite trout stream. A VIEW FROM WEST RIDGE. Tysteneyck at the Left, Little Toinje and Big Toinje Next, Then Beaverkill Mtn. West Shokan in the Middle Distance. Hesley's House in the Trees at the Right. running through the door-yard, on its way to Happy Valley. This house may be reached much more directly by following the railroad track down, if one is on foot. Room for twenty. $6 and $7. A quarter of a mile further on the Brodhead's Bridge road, where it crosses the railroad, is Ira F. Davis's with room for fifteen. $7. This house may also be reached by the track at a saving of consider- able distance. Returning to the end of the main street at Watson Bishop's we may resume our journey northward toward Watson Hollow, Close by is L. Roosa's. Room for ten. $6. FERRIS S HANDBOOK 51 A few rods beyond is the Baptist Church whose square white tower is a landmark visible from almost any lookout in the vicinity. Here the road leading- up on to West Ridg^e turns off. It also leads to and through the line old maple g"rove of Martin H. Crispell, a fa- vorite picnic ground and the scene of weekly " hops " during the sea- son. Thence on along a charming- bit of picturesque country road, and up the hill. At the fork take the left hand road to A. S. Lyons's, half a mile away. Room for ten. Apply. Russell Eckert's is just beyond Lyons's. Room for ten. $6. The rig-ht hand road at the fork leads to J. J. Hesley's Fair View House, on West Ridge which is a bench, or narrow plateau, extend- ing^ along the eastern slopes of South Mountain and Hig-h Point for three miles or more, five hundred feet above the village. "Fair THE WITTENBERG. SAMUELS' POINT. NORMAN CRISPELL'S HOUSE. View" occupies a commanding- spot on this ridge. From the ver- andah the broad Shokan plain is in full view, the villag-e of West Shokan spread across it among^ the trees Beyond, rising from the lowland near West Hurley we see the Beaverkill Mountain on the ex- treme right. Next, passing- toward the left, is Big- Toinje and Little Toinje then Tysteneyck, Mink Mountain, Mt. Tobias (at Lake Hill) Plateau Mountain, Hunter Mountain, Mt. Tremper, Oak Mountain, Mt. Pleasant Mountain, Samuels's Point, Cross Moun- tain, the Wittenberg-, Mt. Cornell. The slopes of South Moun- tain cut off a further view in that direction. Toward the south and southeast the view extends over a vast rolling- plain dotted with farm houses and bounded in the distance by the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts, forty miles away. This is a noble pan- 52 THE CATSKILLS. orama ever presenting- new beauties as the play of lig"ht and shade varies. "Fair View House" is new and affords shelter for ten guests whose comfort is carefully looked after by motherly Mrs. Hesley. Apply for terms. Returning- to the Baptist Church, we take the road toward Wat- son Hollow ag-ain. Norman Crispell's is a few rods up the road on the left, pleas- antly situated among- tall maple trees near the roadside, and boast- ing- of a pond for rowing familiarly called " The Lake." Here too are swings and a croquet ground, a trout brook in the back yard and THE BURGHER HOUSE. various other attractions, — altogether a popular house, surrounded all summer long with groups of happy children. The house accommo- dates forty guests and Mrs. Crispell and her corps of helpers labor early and late to make the sojourn here a pleasant one. $6 to $7. A short quarter of a mile beyond, a road turns to the right leading across to the bridge over the Bushkill at Weidner's and Schmidt's. Beyond this corner a short half-mile is a road turning to the left to Thompson Eckert's who has room for twenty-five. $6 and $7. The Burgher House is a mile beyond, near the entrance to Wat- son Hollow with its noted trout-stream. We are now two miles from the station and well within the circle of great mountains which head FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 53 the valley here. The scenery is wild and majestic all around, the Burg-her farm disputing- title with the forest and holding- its own only through persistent occupancy. There are two houses, sheltering- fifty guests. The farm and dairy supply the freshest and sweetest of country edibles in abundance, and a well-appointed livery con- tributes its share to the enjoyments of the season. Two mails daily are received and two despatched from this house. Stages meet all trains. Terms $6 to $10. Address J. M. and M. Burgher, Shokan, N. Y. Eli Burgher's is near by. Room for fifteen. Apply. This is the last boarding house on this road, which now winds into the beautiful Watson Hollow, a famous resort for fishermen fot many years. For two miles we follow beside the rushing brook. South Moun- tain on the left and the gentler slopes of Hanover Mountain on the right. We get a glimpse of High Point up Ke- nape Hollow, and then begin to climb up the steeps o f Mombaccus Mount- ain. The road is not only steep but stony, but so much better than it used to be that only those who have never travelled it think of grumbling at its present " improved" condition. Just after mak- ing the turn to the right after crossing the bridge on the Kenape Hollow stream, a momentary glimpse is caught, looking down through Watson Hollow and over Yankeetown, showing Overlook, Indian Head, Mink Mountain and the Hollow, and Plateau Moun- tain with Mt. Tobias nearer, — from twenty to twenty-five miles distant. A short distance further we turn sharply to the left and enter "The Gulf." This is a deep valley with mountains on either side so steep as to be precipitous. Indeed much of their slopes are vertical ledges and cliffs. It is one of the wildest spots in the region. For about two miles we traverse a forest unbroken except by the road. Hug^e rocks, detached from the cliffs a thousand feet up above us, lie all about where they rolled when they came down. Imagina- THE BUSHKILL, NEAR BURGHER'S. 54 THE CATSKILLS. THE GULF IN WINTER. tion fails to realize the awful crash as one of these tremen- dous blocks weig-hing- hundreds of tons breaks loose with a roar and plung^es down into the depths below, mowing- down ^--reat trees as if they were grass, and grind- ing- to powder the rocks in its path. Down in the bot- tom of this gorge is a brook, scarcely more than a moistness at first, but g-radually gaining, until here and there are little cupfuls of water. The remarkable display of moss attracts one's attention. The Splintered, sharp-edged rocks are covered with a thick bossed mantle of the most beauteous g-reen. It spreadsover everything near by, run- ning- far up on old log-s and tree trunks, and leaving only little basins of water in which the reflection is scarcely to be distinguished from the real. This con- tinues until we reach Peakamoose Lake, a long- narrow lakelet with forest setting-. At the lower end a few acres of land have been partially cleared and among the trees have been built the club house and cottages of the Peakamoose Fishing Club. From the heights of Peaka- moose Mountain the Rondout Creek comes down just back of the club house, through one of the most beautiful g-lens in the world. Nothing else in the Catskills approaches it in its pe- culiar type. For a mile it is a succession of impressive pictures with cascades and waterfalls innumerable, living pictures of living water. PEAKAMOOSE LAKE. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 55 From the crag- which stands behind the houses a fine view of the lake is had, and a grand vista down the clove of the Rondout, look- ing^ toward the famous Neversink country. A more charming- spot for a summer rest could not be found. Returning" to the railroad station for a new start we may take the road running- northward, — up the track, — on which at a distance of a quarter of a mile we pass Henry Schmidt's, a favorite resort for German people. Room for one hundred. Apply. Here is a bridge to cross, over the Bushkill, and we come to C. H. Weidner's in a fine grove on a plateau to the left. Room for twenty-five. $7 and $8. C. M. WEIDNER'S, WEST SHOKAN, N. Y. A little beyond there is a branch road turning- up the hillside toward the left, leading- to Capt. House's, half a mile from this point. This place has a fine pond fed by a trout brook. Room for sixteen. Apply. A quarter of a mile further on the main road — one mile from the station, — is Isaac Davis's. Room for fifteen. $6 and S7. Half a mile further, — and the longest half, — is Lewis Boice's. Room for ten. Apply, A quarter of a mile beyond is E. E. Bedell's on a bluff to the left. Room for twelve. $6. From here can be seen the houses at Boiceville, half a mile away. Again returning- to the station we take the main street eastward toward Shokan. 56 THE CATSKILLS. Just across the track is the Hamilton House, the village hotel. C. E. Miller is the present proprietor. Accommodations for fifty. Transients, $1.50 a day. Special rates for a long-er stay. Good livery. Herman Bell's is 100 yards away. Room for ten. $6. Across the street from Herman Bell's is Pythian Hall, with the 1 o d §• e rooms above and a convenient din- ing-room and kitchen be- ne at h. The hall seats three hundred, has a stage with the- atrical fixings, scenery, &c., and is often in use during the season. Back of Py- thian Hall is Za- doc P. Boice's mill for manufacturing barrel-heads, and incidently turning timber into various grades and kinds of lumber. His large yard is a sight when full of logs, — a prostrate forest. A. Van Benschoten's is on a branch road running north, and half a mile from the station. This house is located out in the open meadow-land commanding fine views in all directions, but sheltered by an orchard of vigorous apple trees, whose wide-spread branches invite to "lolling" on the grass beneath. It is said by those who should know that at this house "solid comfort" is dispensed "in chunks." Room for- fifteen. $6 to $8. Just beyond, on the main road, is the long bridge over the Esopus and at this end of it a road turning to the right, following the Creek leads to Brodhead's Bridge, Olive City and Bishop's Falls. On this road 300 yards down is Mrs. Susan Phraner's. Room for twelve. Apply. Crossing the SHOKAN P. O. ULSTER CO., N. Y CAPT. HOUSE'S. Samuel's Poiut iti the background. The road post-ofl&ce, Boiceville, bridge we are in Shokan proper, winding to the right leads to the and the village ; the left road to Cold Brook, Mt. Pleasant and Phoenicia, — a de- lig-htful drive. On this road are two houses belonging to Shokan. Henry Boice's is nearly a mile from the bridge. He has room for twentv. S6 to $9. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 57 C. E. Krom's house is next, standing- back from the road and nearly hidden by the orchard. Room for twenty. $6 to $10. Returning- now to the bridg-e we take the rig-ht hand road to the villag-e around the hill on which the churches stand, the Reformed church first on the left, with a pointed steeple, the Methodist church VIEW OF SHOKAN FROM HILL NEAR EVERY'S The Bushkill Mts., or Wittenberg Chain, in the backgroviud; the Wittenberg on the extreme right, partially cut off by border line. South Mtu. ou the left. Watson Hollow leading to the left around South Mtu. The Esopus Creek in the foreground. next with a square tower. On the right, in the hollow, is Mayer's Tannery, a lonely relic of bygone days when the mountains here- abouts were prolific of the necessary bark. Turning- to the left up the shady street between the churches, we come first to L. Boice's. Room for ten. Apply. D. C. Davis's is next, across the road. Room for twenty. $6 to $8. Next is Mrs. Cobbe's at the top of the " Sand Hill," with room for ten. $6 to $8. From here to the station is a g-ood mile, and just a few rods be- yond is Mrs. Susan Eichler's. Room for sixty. $7 and $8. Keeping- on up the hills for half a mile more we reach Mrs. F. Dunnag-an's. Room for twenty. $6 and $7. A hundred yards further is Og-den Dunnag-an's with room for fifteen. S6. These two houses and Mrs. Eichler's are up on the slopes of Toinje Hook (Hoek is the old Dutch spelling) and there are several 58 THE CATSKILLS. clearing's up above them, reaching^ nearly to the summit, from which g-rand views are obtained. Hig-h Point is best seen from here and West Shokan is in full view spread across the valley in most charm- ing rural beauty. Returning- to the churches we have only to cross the main street to Winchell's store to find the post-office. The main street leads to, Olive Branch and thence to Woodstock by one road, or to Kingston^ by another. On the westerly side of the store building- a road crosses a short bridg-e over Butternut Brook and winds up the hill and over it toward Brown's Station and Winchell's Falls. The first house on this road is W. D. Kvery's. Room for twelve. Apply. Richard Cole's is half a mile further on this road. Room for fifteen. S6 to $7. Between Kvery's and Cole's the road climbs over a hill from the top of which we get a very fine view of West Shokan with the Bush- kill Mountains in the background, in magnificent array. Half a mile beyond Cole's is Oliver Davis's. Room for twenty. $7. Address Brodhead's Bridge P. O. John Rainey's is close by. Room for twenty. S5 to $7. Address Brodhead's Bridge P. O. Returning now to the Shokan P. O. we may take the main street tow^ard Kingston, a picturesque country road winding up the valley beside the pretty Butternut Brook, the houses lying principally on the left, but here and there one across the brook, with a neat bridge over the ravine ; altogether a homelike and delightful village where many visitors enjoy a peaceful rest every season. The first house from the post-office, about two hundred yards distant is Jonathan Ennist's. Room for thirty. Apply. Next door is G. M. Everett's. Room for ten. $5 to $7. A few rods further is C. A. Davis's. Room for twelve. $6 and S7. . Just beyond here a road turns off to the left leading to John D. Ennist's. Room for twenty. Apply. Next is John DuBois's, a mile from the station. Room for ten. Apply. Then comes Jas. M. Eckert's with room for ten. S5 and $7. Mrs. A. M. Harlow's is next. Room for fifteen. S5 and $7. Mrs. John Windrum's is next, a mile and a half from the station. Room for twenty. $5 and $6. Mrs. P. Britt's is a quarter of a mile farther up the hill. Room for twenty. Apply. Keeping on up this road the summit is reached at half a mile, — the " Hog's Back" mentioned under Olive Branch. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 59 The roads about Shokan and West Shokan are usually good and driving- in any direction is rewarded with tine views of mountain scenery not excelled by any in the Catskill region. The greatest variety is found, from the peacefully rural of old Shokan to the ma- jestic wildness of the "Gulf." The trip to Lake Mohonk may be made in one day with an early start. Many delightful walks are within the powers of the most deli- cate. Happy Valley, a favorite picnic place, a charming meadow with groups of trees and traversed by three brooks ; the Bridal Veil Falls on the Buckabone ; the great cleft or crevice on the " toe" of High Point, five hundred feet deep, and many others. For the stur- dier trampers, there are the mountains. The Wittenberg and even Slide Mountain can be made in a day's tramp. High Point may be made with buckboard, or saddle horses, nearly to the top. Samuel's Point and Tysteneyck offer other desirable views and Mount Trem- per at Mount Pleasant is not too much for one day. CHAPTER XIV. HIGH POINT. ASCENT IN WINTER. P came the sun this March morning as into a sphere of purest crystal. Not a breath of vapor from the horizon to the zanith tarnished the pale gold rays, which cut out, with microscopic sharpness, each rock and stub and plume of evergreen upon the slopes which buttress the giant crests about the Shokan plains. Clear and serene, High Point seemed to invite to its wonderful outlook, and the thought was scarcely outlined before the decision followed, — to go, and at once, — for the snow-crust would not be hard many hours, and except upon the crust the trip would be impossible. Breakfast was not to be thought of, so a handful of biscuit was hastily thrust into each pocket and we are off. The way up High Point is no longer a trail. Hundreds make the ascent every summer and it is now a well marked road passable for buckboards for more than half the way. At this season it may be traced from the plain as a fine continuous white line among the bare forest trees, starting in on the slope of South Mountain, and running up the side at an angle of about thirty degrees, to the 60 THE CATSKILLS. height of land near the head of Kenape Hollow where it is no longer visible. The nig-ht has been cold and the mercury stands at twenty degrees, with not so much as a whisper of a breeze. It is one of the "mountain days" of the year, — dry, absolutely clear and the g-oing above criticism; such a day as only mountain climbers know how to appreciate and enjoy to the full. AVe take a bee-line for the foot of the trail over the crusted fields. There is a peculiar exhilaration in walking upon a stout crust of snow, the usual roughness of a cross-country path all smoothed away, the meadow brooks gurgling along unseen under a bridge of ice, and here and there a little stony hummock clad in bronzed wintergreen, bright with scarlet berries. There is a mile of this, and then the HIGH POINT FROM THE SHOKAN PLAINS. The Great Cleft is seen at the left. West Ridge in sight back of large Cottage, climb of two miles begins. The creepers are snapped on, for an icy, thirty-degree grade is not to be done without them. Here in the forest the snow is deeper, a matter of no moment unless a soft spot is trod upon, when three crusts give way successively and we find the depth to be nearly three feet. How different are these woods from their familiar summer habit! No moss, nor rocks, nor ferns; all the undergrowth invisible and the whole groundwork one smooth, shining, sparkling sweep of sleeted snow; the edges of every ledge and crag softened into folds, and the deep gray tree trunks in sharpest contrast with the glistening white. Scarcely noticeable is the tracery of shadow from the branches above, and where in summer hung broad masses of shade, dark and cool, all now is a blaze of whitest light in which even shadows are pale. It is a beauty unlike any other. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 61 Up, and up, and still up. The work begins to tell now and the perspiration starts from the brow to be frozen at once into crystal beads. Now and again comes a brief halt for breath, and deep draughts of the " purest air in the world" persuade one that in truth it is good enough to eat. The forsaken breakfast is never missed, and the biscuits are ignored. Soon the top of this grade is reached, and there is a nearly level stretch of a quarter of a mile along the top of the narrow ridge which runs from South Mountain across the head of Kenape Hollow to High Point. As we walk along we look down through this hollow into Watson Hollow, famous among fishermen for its trout brooks. On the farther side of Watson Hollow rise the buttresses of Breath Hill, which would be a " mountain " but for its towering neighbors. Just back of .this is Little Balsam Mountain, and capping the massive cluster is Big Balsam or Peakamoose Mountain, 3,875 feet above tide water. The highest peak of the Catskill group is only 350 feet higher than this giant. This is toward the right. Toward the left of the ridge we look down upon the great Shokan plains, with the village of West Shokan spread out across it. It is this wide plain that gives the Shokan country its peculiar beauty. Old Shokan is seen beyond, clustering along the road which winds up over a spur of Toinje Hook on its way to the City of Kingston, eighteen miles away, and quite distinctly visible to the unaided eye. Over the city and far beyond the Hudson the horizon is bounded by the summit of the Berkshire Hills, a clean, sharp outline of the daintiest blue against a sky also blue, and yet so pale as only to be described as "invisible " blue. The notable peak rising above the general level is Mount Everett, the southern end of the Berkshires in Massachusetts. Time is called and on we go, passing the old log cabin built by George H. Lewis, at one time our State Printer, and occupied by him for many summers. From the door-step of this cabin there is an unbroken outlook toward the east for forty miles and one can but faintly imagine the glories of a fine sunrise viewed from this spot. Now the grade grows steep again and more rugged than before, in spite of the mantle of snow. Great chips and blocks from the crags aT)Ove lie about in wild confusion on every side. The pauses for breath come oftener, and the air is keen with an edge that the genial sun, now well up, fails to remove. Collars are turned up and coats snugly buttoned and away we go again, over the unbroken crust. Some signs of life arouse interest. In the icy sheet the tracks of a panther made yesterday, while the snow was soft, are plainly apparent, and there is a feeling of genuine satisfaction that his time-table and ours differ a few hours. Crossing the trail in several places is the track of a wild cat, perhaps more than one, — 62 THE CATSKILLS. but one at a time is plenty, — and in one spot a convention of six or eig-ht partridg-es have left a huddle of claw marks. A faint croak overhead calls attention to a flock of crows flying- northward and so hig-h as to be scarcely visible. All mundane things come to an end, and the last furlong is passed over and the summit g-ained. At first the view wanders over the immense expanse of lowland toward the east, south and south- west one great field of snow spotted with bits of vag-rant forest. High Point is the southernmost peak of the Catskill group, so that the view in this direction is limited only by the possible reach of human vision. One is impressed with the thoug-ht of the millions of happy and self supporting homes which might be established over this vast territory in sig-ht, with its widely scattered population, to the o-reat relief of the congestion of humanity in the Greater New York. Here is a chance for the most humane kind of a benevolent society. A g-limmer of water catches the eye far to the southeast. It is a bit of the Hudson at the lower end of Newburgh Bay, end this is the only view we g-et of the open river. On the hitherward side of this bright gleam is the isolated mountain pile on which are the well known summer resorts Lake Mohonk and Lake Minnewaska, and the much larg-er and hig-her Lake Aioskawasting-, a wild spot of rare beauty, still awaiting- development. West of this group is the low range of the Shawang-unk Mountains,- in the vernacular the "Shongums," and still further west we see the land g-radually rising to the plateaus of Sullivan Co., in the reg-ion of Monticello. Here and there all throug-h the plains at our feet winds the Esopus, a roaring torrent whose voice we cannot hear from these heig-hts but the sig-ht of the masses of white foam which mark its course tell the story. The summer visitor who delig-hts in its peaceful murmur cannot realize its fierceness when the spring rains swell it until it bursts its cloak of ice, perhaps sixteen inches thick, into millions of immense fragments and goes tearing- down toward the sea. Toward the north the scene is wholly different. From the pre- cipitous outline of the Overlook Mountain in the northeast, all the way round to Mombaccus Mountain in the southwest, is a succession of high mountain summits from 3000 to 4200 feet hig-h, each with a noble outline peculiarly its own, — an array that defies description. "We must leave it to the artist to g-ive what can be only the faint- est idea of this view, — a sug-g-estion only of its extent, for the out- look from this mountain is recog-nized by tourists who have seen the .world as one of its g-rand views. After a brief halt, during- which the artist makes his sketch, and the remainder of the party shiver, the descent is beg-un. The FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 63 creepers are removed, and sliding- attempted with great success. A treacherous place in the crust gives way now and then, or the branch of a stubby tree whirls one of the sliders around, and various unex- pected positions are assumed ; but the grand slide continues without regard to position, or dignity, and an excited and breathless g^roup comes to a halt at the log cabin, luckily with no accidents to report. MOUNTAIN OUTLINE FROM HIGH POINT, FROM THE WEST AROUND BY THE NORTH TO THE EASTERN END OF THE GROUP. SKETCHED BY THE AUTHOR, MARCH 11, 1897. A A A A Plateau of Sullivan Co. B Diamond Notch. I, I Mombaccus Mountain. 18 Timothy Berg. 2 Peakamoose. 19 Karlberg. 3 Table Mountain. 20 Hunter Mountain. 4 Breath Hill. C Stony Clove. 5 Fifth Mountain. 21 Plateau Mountain. 6 Fourth Mountain. 22 Mt. Tobias. 7 Slide Mountain. D Mink Hollow. 8 Spruce Top. 23 Mink Mountain. 9 Hanover Mountain. 24 Twin Mountain. 10 Mt. Cornell. 25 Indian Head. II The Wittenberg. 26 Tysteneyck. 12 Cross Mountain. 27 Plattekill Mountain. 13 Samuels' Point. 28 Overlook Mountain. PantherMountain just above 13. 29 Little Toinje. 14 Mt. Pleasant. 30 Big Toinje. 15 North Dome. 31 Beaverkill Mountain. i6 Big Westkill Mountain. 32 Green Mountains, Vt, 17 Mt. Tremper. E The Hudson River Valley. From here the level must be traversed and the snow having- softened somewhat, the crust no longer bears, so after struggling- along over our knees in snow thirty inches deep, it is proposed that we try " all fours a la bear." This proves practicable and the tracks left are doubtless the puzzle of the day to the wild creatures who have run across them. Upon reaching the top of the slope on South Mountain, we ag-ain assume the upright posture, and resume the slide, which, from the 64 THE CATSKILLS. wider crail is less exciting- and more enjoyable. The descent of a mile is made in ten minutes. The tramp back across the fields seems tame after this unique experience, but we arrive at home in time for a ten o'clock breakfast, three hours and a half from the start, with an appetite which yields reluctantly to the persuasions of buckwheat cakes and new maple syrup. We are surprised to find that not even a hunter will confess to having- been on Hig-h Point in winter since 1892, and our trip is the subject of interested comment. From its ease of access it offers a pleasant recreation out of the usual line to the clubs of mountain climbers, who cannot fail to find it novel as well as enjoyable. CHAPTER XV. BOICEVILLE, LEAVING Shokan station, we cross the Bushkill within half a mile and the traveller with the g-eolog-ical turn of mind will note another " sand-bank" on the left, extending- almost with- out a break for two miles, and eventually butting- against Samuels' M. H. DAVIS'S AT BOICEVILLE. Oak Mountain in the background Esopus Creek in the foreground. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 65 APPROACHING BOICEVILLE. Point, which rises above Boiceville on the west. A g-lance at the mountains will show the curves which produced the slack water where this sand bank is, and favored its formation. Traver Hollow lies between Samuels' Point and Mt. Pleasant Mountain, and if one could look throug-h Cross Mountain across the head of this hol- low, it would be into Woodland Valley which opens toward the north a mile be- yond Phoenicia. Nearing" Boice- ville we find the valley much nar- rower than at Shokan and the scenery wholly c h a n g- e d . We cross the Eso- pus, here a wide stretch of raging- flood, or a bed of dry rock and stones, according to the season and the previous weather, and come quickly to a halt at the station. There is a large excelsior mill here with its conven- tional rows of employes cottages, and immense piles of wood wait- ing to be shredded in the machines which run night and day from Monday morning to Saturday evening. At this station there are not many board- ing houses. Within a stone's throw of the station toward the east is J. L. Patchin's. Room for twenty-five. $6 and $7. Across the road — which leads south to Shokan and north to Mount Pleasant, — is R. D. Patchin's with room for twenty. $6 and $7. Up the railroad track is a curious looking high stone bridge over which passes the road from the mill to connect with the Shokan road previously mentioned. Near the eastern end of this bridge is the road leading up the hill to A. L. Snyder's. Room for twenty. $6. M. H. Davis's is the large white house to the left of the track seen from the high bridge. The usual way of approach for those on foot is up the track, across the railroad bridge and then a sharp turn to the left at the end of the bridge, — about a quarter of a mile from the station. Room for forty. $6. BOICEVILLE P, ULSTER CO., N 66 THE CATSKILLS. 1 HIGH BRIDGE AT BOICEVILLE. Levi Bell's is a short distance beyond Davis's. Room for ten. Apply. Several points on the hills about here command fine views north- ward and southward. The place is a favorite resort for fisherman as there are several g-ood trout streams. ■»§S€^«* CHAPTER XVI. COLD BROOK. ABOUT a mile beyond Boiceville is Cold Brook station at the western end of the new iron bridg-e recently built across the Esopus at this place. At the eastern end of this bridg-e is the road running- from Shokan to Mt. Pleasant on the easterly side of the creek, and the other road from Shokan which passes Schmidt's, Weidner's, Isaac Davis's, etc., and M. H. Davis's at Boiceville, comes out here at the station. From the bridg-e are fine views up and down the stream and the country about is wild and pretty. Turning- to the left as we g-o off the bridg-e, toward Mt. Pleasant, the first house BEECHFORD P. O.. ^^^ ^^^^ .^ ^^^ -^^^^ Winchell's. Room ULSTER CO., N. Y. for ten. Apply. Next is Mrs. J. L. Hasbrouck's about a quarter of a mile from the station. Room for twenty. Apply. A short distance further up the road is the post-office,— Beech- ford,— in the house of Mrs. Robt. Winne. Room for twenty-five. $6 and $7. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 67 Wm. S. Winne has room for fifteen. $7 and $8. Within the two miles from here to Mt. Pleasant are several houses which are usually reached from the next station. Davis Winne's is not half a mile from the Beechford P. O. (See Mt. Pleas- ant for particulars of his house.) C. H. Cutler's is three miles away in the Yankeetown valley which has its head at Bearsville and opens here into the Esopus val- ley. A fine dashing- trout stream traverses it, emptying" here. The P. O. at Cutler's is Wittenberg-. Room for ten. Apply. CHAPTER XVII. MOUNT PLEASANT. THE CORNER, AND LAKE HILL. FROM Cold Brook station northward, the railroad follows the Esopus for a mile or more, at the foot of Mount Pleasant (mountain). The fact that both the mountain and the station bear the same name makes it necessary to distinguish them in this cumbersome way. The views toward the east are very pleasing-, — the Esopus being- in the immediate foreg-roundwith meadows beyond, an orchard here and there on the foothills and Mt. Tobias and Mt. Tremper prominent in the backg-round, the other mountains which bound De Vail Hollow affording- pleasant lines and shades of blue to complete the picturesque effect. Up on the ledg-es of Mt. Pleas- ant (mountain) above our heads are several quarries whence come r FROM MT. PLEASANT STATION NORTHWARD TOWARD PHOENICIA. 68 THE CATSKILLS. LONGYEAR P. O., ULSTER CO., N. Y. occasional puffs of smoke, followed by reverberating- reports which echo and re-echo across the valley. Suddenly the creek takes a wide bend toward the east, and, the railroad going- straig-ht on, we part company with the liveliest fea- ture of the landscape. The De Vail Hollow opening- toward the east g-ives a more and more distant view till when nearly to the sta- tion we see Twin Mountain with part of Indian Head on the rig-ht of it, and part of Mink Mountain on the left. Oleberg- stands broad- side to us on the left of Mink Mountain ; then Karlberg-, then Tim- othy Berg- and Mt. Tremper on the extreme left. To the rig-ht of distant Indian Head is Mt. Tobias with the Dunkerberg- nearer. The train pauses to permit us to resume careful exploration. We find that " Mt. Pleasant" is a sort of general name covering the region about the station and also the larger settlement half a mile away, beyond the Creek. The post-office name at the station is Longyear, and the office is at one end of the station. Just across the road is the Cockburn House in a grove of trees which approach so close to the track that tourists may easily im- agine that the train is a part of the dooryard attractions designed by Mr. Cockburn. In this spacious house is room for one hundred and twenty guests. Terms $10 to $12. Van B. Cockburn, proprietor. Mrs. J. B. Winne's is opposite the Cockburn House, across the track, on a handsome terrace. Room for twenty. Apply. Mrs. A. E. Cock- burn's is on the road which runs up this side of the Creek to Phoenicia, just where it crosses the track, about a quarter of a mile from the sta- tion. Room for fif- teen. Apply. Henry Short's is a mile beyond Mrs. Cockburn's. Room lor twenty-five. Ap- ply. The road to "The Corner" as the larger village at Mount Pleasant is called, runs eastward along the end of the Cockburn House and grounds, then crossing a little bridge over a mill-pond in which is a diminutive island (at high MRS. J. B. WINNE'S COTTAGE. FERRIS'S HAND-BOOK. 69 water) with a barbed wire fence around it. At first sig-ht this seems a needless protection unless ag-ainst bull-frogs and "sich," — but as the water recedes an isthmus appears offering- a hig^hwaj to the sportive cow who mig-ht devour the whole island and its contents. There is a short stretch to a bit of pine woods at ,the further end of which is Miss Ackerly's "Pine Grove House." Room for twenty. Apply. Thence around a curve to the left and across the Esopus by another bridg-e, and we enter the Shokan road opposite the Reformed church. On this road toward the rig-ht is the post-office close by. H. B. Hudler's is nearly a mile below the P. O. toward Shokan. Room for fifty. Apply. Davis Winne's is half a mile further, with room for fifty. $8. THE CORNER P. O ULSTER CO., N. Y. DAVIS WINNE'S, NEAR MT. PLEASANT Returning- to the church mentioned we g-o northward to " the corners." Here are four roads, — one to Woodstock, ten miles; one to Lake Hill, six miles; one to Phoenicia, four miles; and the one mentioned to Shokan, six miles. On the corner between the Lake Hill road and the Woodstock road is C. M. Lamson's house accommodating- forty. $7 to $10. Next to this house, on the Woodstock road, is the Baptist Church, and about a mile further is S. L. Saterlee's. Room for fifteen. Apply. Jacob Eichler's is on the corner between the Woodstock and Shokan roads. Elmer E. Lockwood's is opposite Eichler's. Room for six. Apply. On the corner between the Shokan and Phoenicia roads is the factory and mill of the Hudson River Reed Furniture Co., where a larg-e variety of fancy wicker work furniture is made. Passing- this mill we cross the bridge over the Shandaken Beaverkill. It is un- fortunate that there are so many streams called Beaverkill among the 70 THE CATSKILLS. mountains that at seems necessary to prefix the name of the town as is done in this case. As this brook comes from Mink Hollow, about eleven miles away, it would aid in the g-eog-raphical g-rasp of the regfion if this stream could have been named after its source. Just beyond the bridg-e a branch road turns sharply to the rig"ht leading- to two houses. Dr. H. B. Watson's is the first. Room for thirty. Apply. This was formerly the Lake House. Curtis North, a few rods further, has room for eig^ht. $7. WM. SCHUMACHERS, AT MOUNT PLEASANT. THE CORNER P. O. Returning- to the main road ag-ain at the bridg-e, we g-o on to- ward Phoenicia. Near at hand are Wm. Schumacher's two houses, with accommodations for fort}-. Apply. Henry Hoffman's is on this road half a mile further. Room for twenty-five. S6. This is the last house on this road till Phoenicia is reached. On the Lake Hill road are several houses, scattered all the way to and beyond the Lake Hill post-office. From Lamson's at the cor- ner the road runs along- the foot of the Dunkerberg- or Dipper Moun- tain. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 71 S. S. Randall's is the first house about a quarter of a mile from Lamson's, three-quarters of a mile to the station. Room for twenty. Apply. Sherman Lockwood's is a quarter of a mile further. Room for twenty. Apply. Half a mile further is Jas. T. De Vall's. Room for six. Apply. But a short distance beyond we cross the lively little stream called the Drog-hkill, which comes down between Mt. Tremper, — for- merly called the Drog-hkill Mountain, — and Timothy Berg-, a stream noted for its purity and coldness, and so liked by trout that it is " alive with them." The property about this stream has been pur- chased lately by F. D. Storey, Esq., of New York, who is develop- ing- it. A dam has been built across the Drog-hkill making- a fine pond of several acres which will be devoted to trout culture, and in- cidentally to the pleasures of boating-. A handsome summer cottag-e will be erected this season to be followed, doubtless, by many others in this beautiful valley. M. A. De Vall's is the next house, two miles from the station. Room for ten. Apply. Kdwin A. De Vall's is half a mile further around a beautiful curve in the stream. Room for twenty. Apply. From here on the valley is quite narrow and the road runs beside the Beaverkill all the way, crossing- it several times. It is a pictur- esque and dashing- stream full of g-reat rocks and overhung- by large trees affording- many delig-htful bits for the artist and photographer. For half a mile more we make our way up the "hollow," the ground rising- g-radually but constantly, and then, rounding- a hill on the rig-ht, we come out unexpectedly into a broad, oblong valley sur- rounded on all sides with mountains of striking- outline and massive proportions. Directly ahead the Overlook stands high and great, with the hotel in plain sig-ht showing- its broad western side. Platte- kill Mountain is next toward the left, then Indian Head, Twin Mountain and then Oleberg- putting- out like a promontory into the valley and hiding- Mink Mountain and the Mink Hollow notch. The peaked spur which Oleberg- throws off toward the west is called Lit- tle Rocky, and its name seems peculiarly appropriate so far as the rocky is concerned. As the Karlberg- is sometimes called the Big- Rocky, the comparison is obvious. This fine oval valley is called the Little Shandaken Valley. At the end nearest, there is quite a settlement called West Woodstock. We take the left hand road at the first fork, to reach it. There are two churches here, Methodist and Wesleyan Methodist. Mrs. B. Broadie's is on the hillside just as we come into the val- ley. Room for six. Apply. 72 THE CATSKILLS. Mrs. B. W. Hoyt's is up on the side of the Karlberg- commanding- a fine view, about half a mile from the churches, five miles from the LAKE HILL P O station at Mount Pleasant. Room for twenty- ULSTER CO., N. Y. ^^^- ^PP^^^- The road running- up the valley between Mrs. Hoyt's and Little Rocky leads over into Edg-ewood in the Stony Clove, about four miles. It is not always in g-ood condition. This little branch valley g-oes by the name of Silver Hollow. It lies on the southwesterly side of Oleberg- and just over this mountain, on the northeasterly side lies Mink Hollow. Returning to the churches we keep on around the northerly side of the valley as the houses taking boarders are on this road. Annie Short's is half a mile from the Wesleyan Church. Room for twenty. Apply. J. B. Eighmy's is half a mile further. Room for ten. $5 and $6. As we continue around Oleberg toward the entrance to Mink Hollow we find that this mountain has a sharp knife-edge, or like a wide chisel. From the side it looks flat with a top almost level; from the end it is sharp as if conical. A little further we come to the Lake Hill P. O. The road up the Mink Hollow is a short distance further on, but a cross-ctit over the fields in front of the post-office reduces the distance consid- erably. A quarter of a mile up the Mink Hollow road brings us to the Mink Hollow stream, famous for its trout. The first boarding house on this road is S. G. Wilber's, half a mile from the post-office, six miles and a half from Mt. Pleasant station. Room for thirty. $5 and $6. Walter Traub's is a quarter of a mile farther. Room for five. Apply. Perry Mosher's is next, just over the bridge. Room for twenty. $5 to $7. The scenery along this valley, — Mink Hollow, — is wildly beau- tiful, of the type peculiar to high mountain valleys partially subdued to the needs of a scanty farming population. The clearings reach up the steep slopes into the forests and bits of the original woods still hold stony or unpromising knolls and ravines. It is a delightful combination of opposites. Not far from Mosher's is the summer home of Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Sully, in the midst of attractive scenic surroundings. The Wilber House is at the head of the hollow eight miles from Mt. Pleasant station. From the house one looks up at Mink Moun- tain (or Sugar Loaf as called by some) with its peculiar castle-like, turreted spur thrown out toward the south. The deep Mink Hollow Notch seems deeper than ever from here, and we are almost high FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 73 enoug-h to see throug-h it into the Tannersville country just beyond. It is but four miles from this house to Elka Park. The road is passable, but more cannot be said of it unless repairs have been made since this was written. The Wilber House (R. R. Wilber, Proprietor) accommodates seventy-five. $7 to $8. Returning- to the post-office at Lake Hill we may continue east- ward, — toward Woodstock. Eg-bert Howland's is near by. Room for twenty. $5 and $6. A short half-mile away is Cooper's Lake, from which the post- office takes its name. M. Sag-endorf's is at the lake. Room for twenty. Apply. This road goes on two miles to Shady, in the Bristol Valley; and at this point we are but five miles from Mead's by that route. See Chapter IX. Returning- to Mt. Pleasant, before resuming- the railroad journey northward, a few words as to the ascent of Mount Tremper and what can be seen from the summit may be of interest to mountain climb- ers. The way up is beg-un at the northern end of the bridg-e at Ecker's mill, passing- Dr. Watson's and Curtis North's and keeping- on up this road to the blacksmith's shop. Turn up the hill between the house and the shop and cross the fence at the top of the rise; g-o throug-h the g-rove of oaks, keeping- in the rather indistinct path until you come to the wood road. Then follow that to a fork. Take the rig-ht-hand road here,— this doesn't seem to be rig-ht, but the left g-oes only to the foot of the mountain, to a quarry. From here on it is only a matter of keeping- on the road (which is badly g-rown up with small brush) to the end of it,— in a sort of pocket among- big- trees up on the easterly side of the mountain. Fine views may be caug-ht here and there, especially of the Little Shandaken valley. From the point where the road ends there is no well marked trail and a ten minutes strug-g-le throug-h the brush will bring- one to the top of the spur reaching- toward The Corner. Going- around to the " front" of this, —that is, toward the west,— a g-rand view is obtained down the Esopus valley. At one's feet is the settlement at The Corner em- bowered in larg-e trees, the Beaverkill winding- throug-h it, a silvery streak dashed with foamy white. The Esopus stretches out as a long-, twisted ribbon until lost in the distance. Boiceville and West Shokan are in the middle distance, in plain sight, and the scattered farm houses dot with human interest the whole valley as far as the eye can disting-uish. Hig-h Point looks g-rand in proportions, as it is, on the rig-ht of the valley and Tysteneyck is a dig-nified boundary on the left. Beyond these the broken and rolling- plains spread out in the g-ray distance losing- color g-radually till they merg-e into the blue 74 THE CATSKILI.S. of the Shawang-unks; but beyond these are still more landscape lines fainter and fainter until lost in haze. From Hig-h Point westward the view is of mountain peaks with Slide Mountain atop of all. To the east from Tysteneyck, Tobias fills in the foreg-round view and hides the country beyond. The peak, or summit, of Tremper is still above us toward the north and so overg^rown as not to be worth g'oing to for the view is concealed by the foliag-e. But the spur which reaches out westward is worth a visit. Like a balcony it comes out into the valley gfiving- a fine view both ways. The view down has been briefly described althoug^h from this point it is somewhat differ- ent in detail. Up the valley we look down into Phoenicia and over toward Panther Mountain, and also into a part of the Stony Clove. No visitor to Mt. Pleasant should omit to climb Mt. Tremper. The trail is easy enoug-h for ladies with stout clothing. CHAPTER XVIII. PHCENICIA, AND WOODLAND VALLEY. AFTER leaving- Mount Pleasant the valley becomes rapidly nar- rower as the mountains crowd closer. What little cultivable land remains in the bottom is in many places kept with g-reat difficulty out of the g-rasp of the Esopus which here and there claims the entire width of half a mile, — and gets it in the Spring-, — leaving a waste of water-worn stones which are not larg-e enoug-h to be pic- turesque. On both sides of the valley the mountains are too steep for cultivation, and a few farms occupy all the bottom land available, subject to foreclosure by the Creek without notice. On the rig-ht Mt. Tremper swing-s in a g-reat curve so as to stand directly in front of us. On the left Mt. Pleasant soon g-ives place to Mt. Romer, a slig-ht depression or pass marking- the separation. Our course here is due north. After rounding- Mt. Romer, — as we must, the course will be southwest for a stretch. The station is on this curve at the farther end. As the train comes into the yard we notice the narrow g-uage trucks and the lifting- apparatus by which the bodies of the cars can be lifted off the standard trucks and the narrow trucks put under them. This is necessary in order that they may be run on the Stony Clove R. R., which has its lower terminus here, and is built on the FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. ' 75 PHCENICIA FROM THE RESERVOIR. The Tremper House at the right of the village ; the Europa House at the left Panther Mountain in the background, narrow g"uage. Passeng-ers for stations in the Stony Clove and on top of the mountain from Hunter to Otis Summit are oblig-ed to change cars here. There has been some talk of making- the Stony Clove R. R. a standard [g-uag-e road. If this is done it will certainly be a g-reat improvement, and a g-reater convenience to travellers by that line. The scenery about Phoenicia is the wildest on the line of the railroad. The place is completely surrounded by mountains with steep slopes, and so hig-h as to carry the sky-line far up into space. The level land upon which the town is built is but a few acres scarcely five hundred, and seems to be left only throug-h g-reat con- descension on the part of the mountains. The Esopus froths along- in a rocky bed over ag-ainst Mt. Romer taking- a free and easy twist as it leaves the villag-e as if to emphasize its claim to all the lowland in sig-ht. The Stony Clove stream comes down its narrow valley with a larg-e volume of water and cuts the town in two. A short mile above the town, the Woodland Valley stream comes in drain- ing- another larg-e territory. Here is a favorite spot for fisher- men with three larg-e and fine streams and many smaller tributaries near by. Alig-hting- for a short survey of accommodations, we cross the space at the end of the station, pausing- a few minutes, perhaps, to watch the transfer of bag-gage and express from the U. & D. cars to those of the Stony Clove R. R., which stand just the other side of the station building, with its locomotive humming- with the pent up power to be used in climbing up the steeps of the famous Clove. 76 THE CATSKILLS. PHCENICIA P. O., ULSTER CO., N. Y Opposite the station is the post-office and next door to it is W. B. Martin's hotel. $2 per day. Special rate by the week or month. Turning- to the left up the street a few rods, we reach the larg-e iron bridg^e across the Esopus passing- on the way the curving- bridg-e of the Stony Clove R. R. Directly throug-h the bridg-e, as if framed by the trusses, appears the Tremper House a quarter of a mile from the station, in a stately position upon a fine natural terrace. The street leads directly to the gates of the spacious grounds which contain not only the large hotel and its accessory building-s, but also several detached cottag-es for THE EUROPA HOUSE. J. F. VOSS, PROPRIETOR. the g-reater convenience of family parties who desire a measure of privacy with the advantag-es of a larg-e hotel. At this writing- it is not decided who will run the hotel this season so no name can be g-iven. Address the Tremper House, Phoenicia, N. Y. Room for two hundred and fifty g-uests. Terms, usually, $3 per day. $15 per week. Turning- up the street toward the left we cross the track of the Stony Clove road up which the train has gone hissing- and throbbing- with a vim not unlike a mettled horse. Mrs. Mary K. Winter's house is just beyond the track. Room for ten. $7 and $8. A few steps further is a small hotel, the Phoenicia House, C. C. Winne, Proprietor. Room for twenty. Apply. FERKIS S HANDBOOK. 77 A short distance from here is the wag-on road up the Stony Clove, — at the bridg-e. Turning- here we find James Kinkaid's a quarter of a mile from the bridg-e. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Newton J. Knapp's is close by. Room for twenty. Apply. The next houses on this road are at Chichester's. See chapter on the Stony Clove. Returning- to the main street at the bridg-e over the Stony Clove stream, we cross the bridg-e to the newer part of the town. The second house on the rig-ht is the residence of Dr. Krom, the villag-e physician. Mrs. Jas. A. Simpson's is next. Room for six. Apply. R. Breithoupt's is next door. Room for twenty-five. $5 to $7. Across the street is a larg-e three-story building- with a large ex- tension running- back. This is the Europa House, Julius F. Voss, Proprietor. This is the second house in size in the town and new from top to bottom, open for its first season. The g-rounds have been taste- fully laid out and a rustic pavilion built. Inside, the rooms both public and private are brig-ht and pleasant, and furnished for comfort as well as appearance. The kitchen and laundry are models of com- pleteness, and, all in all, Mr. Voss is to be cong-ratulated in the pos- session of an up-to-date house. Accommodations for one hundred. Apply for terms g-iving- full particulars as to wants, and every effort will be made to assure satisfaction. Address Europa House, Phoeni- cia, N. Y. A short distance around the bend of the road is J. H. Simpson's, half a mile from the station. Room for twenty-five. $7. This road leads to Shandaken, six miles away, and, by a branch to the left half a mile beyond Simpson's intoWood- land Valley. In Woodland Val- ley there are three houses distant about five miles from the station at Phoenicia, which is their post- of&ce also. Miss D. W. Beach takes thirty. Apply. J. H. SIMPSON'S HOUSE. J. A. Lord takes twenty. Apply. Mrs. A. Jansen takes twelve. Apply. 78 THE CATSKILLS. The beauties of Woodland Valley (formerly Snyder Hollow) have been told ag-ain and ag-ain, by pen and pencil, — to say nothing- of the fish stories which have been manufactured with a basis of more or less raw material on the way "home" from the famous "Snyder Hollow Stream." It is now the reg-ular resort of artists who find endless sug-g-estion in its charming- natural composition. On the Shandaken road, about a mile beyond the turn to Wood- land Valley is "The Wittenberg-," to be run this year by A. Tobias RISELEY'S P O ^^ whom Mr. Whitney, the owner, has leased jjLSTER CO N Y ^^' ^oom for seventy-five. Apply. A new post-office has been established here, and is located in the store just beyond The Wittenberg-. It is called "Riseley's." WOODLAND VALLEY LOOKING SOUTH. Mrs. E. Jakeway's is opposite the post-office. This house has t)een doubled in size since last season and will now accommodate forty. Apply. There are many interesting- views to be enjoyed about Phoenicia. The prettiest view of the villag-e and surrounding- scenery is to be had from a knoll near the reservoir, a cow-pasture owned by Romeyn Long-year, who denies to visitors the privileg-e of enjoying it, so that the view from the reservoir itself must be taken as the best available. The entrance to this, point is through the two red gates by the tall pine tree on the road toward Mt. Pleasant about half a mile from the Europa House. Smith's quarry is also reached by this road and from there a fine view is to be had. To go to the quarry take the left hand road at the fork; the right hand road leads to the reservoir. Another pretty view is had from the quarries back of the Tremper House. The Grand View Rock is at Simpson's quarry, entrance to -which is nearly opposite the Europa House. This is about half an FEKRIS'S HANDBOOK. 79 hour's climb, well repaid however. Other fine views may be enjoyed about the entrance to Woodland Valley from several points of van- tag-e. One quarry near the railroad bridge, but some 300 feet higher g"ives a very pleasing outlook. One other house remains to be noticed, that of Madison Long- year. This is reached by crossing the U. & D. R. R. track just above the station and going a long mile toward Mt. Pleasant on that side of the Esopus. Room for fifteen. Apply. ■5*i$S $:€:*«■ CHAPTER XIX. ALLABEN AND THE SHANDAKEN VALLEY. AS WE leave Phoenicia station we catch an attractive view of the Tremper House, and back of it the lower end of the Stony Clove with a spur of Mt. Sheridan on the left and the steep slopes of Mt. Tremper on the right. The high rounded peak which seems to shut in the clove is the summit of the Ox Clove Mountain lying on the farther side of that clove ; beyond it lies Broad Street Hollow, or, by its more recent christening, Forest Valley. The rail- road track lies close beside the creek, and, as we pass, a little whirl- wind, often seen at this point because of the conformation of the mountains, seizes a bit of the water from the rapids and throws it high into the air, a pretty pillar of spray. Across the creek the ragged cliffs with their black fissures reach up into a precipice scarred with quarries and littered with their debris of stone chips and broken flags. At the top is Grand View Rock re- ferred to near the close of the chapter preceding. A glance ahead shows a succession of mountain spurs plunging down into the nar- row valley. This is the wildest bit of scenery along the line of the railroad, and there are quick surprises as the train seems to leap to one side to avoid the creek and the other to escape a mountain, hast- ening away from the tumultuous roar of the one and the metallic racket of the other. With a quick curve to the right we cross the iron bridge over Woodland Creek, and get a glimpse toward the left of the entrance to Woodland Valley. After crossing this stream the diminished size of the Esopus is quite noticeable, it having lost also the volume contributed by the Stony Clove stream. 80 THE CATSKILLS. To the rig-ht, looking- up the Esopus Creek is a fine vista, with four mountain peaks in the distance, — Rose Mountain at Shandaken occupying- the left, then Broad Street Mountain with the peaked sum- mit, then North Dome, and on the right Big^ Westkill Mountain just showing- above the pines on Mt. Sheridan. Half a mile of tortuous winding- and turning-, in close fellowship with the Esopus, and we pass Mrs. De Mott's larg-e Excelsior Mill, occupying- a flat of a few acres. Then with a sweep we enter the beautiful Shandaken Val- ley. An entire chang-e of scene g^reets the interested traveller. The mountains on either side seem to have drawn away, and the pastoral spirit reig-ns over broad meadows dotted with cattle, g-ently sloping- foothills crowned with orchards, and farm houses of thrifty appear- ance nestled here and there in clumps of fruit-bearing- trees. The IN THE SHANDAKEN VALLEY. train hugs the foot of Mt. Garfield on the westerly side of the valley, while the creek runs far over toward the easterly side for nearly a mile and then comes back to make a charming- f oreg-round for a pretty picture near Riseley's, the new post-office between Phoenicia and Shandaken. Half a mile farther on is the crusher which is breaking- up the spare rocks of Mt. Garfield to supply ballast for the Ulster and Delaware R. R., — up in an old quarry to the left. Another half- mile and Mt. Sheridan is passed and Broad Street Hollow ( Forest Valley) opens to the rig-ht, disclosing- in the distance the clove be- tween North Dome on the left and Big- Westkill Mountain on the rig-ht. The latter is 3900 feet hig-h, one of the hig-hest in that reg-ion, and its outline in this view is marked by noble convex curves. Throug-h this notch one may reach Spruceton, of which more anon, — in the next chapter, — but only on foot. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 81 Here the Esopus looses the volume of the Broad Street brook, and from this point the valley contracts sensibly, and the pastures and orchard lots climb up hig-her and hig-her on the mountain sides to g-et living- room, pushing around the outcropping ledges and crowding- against the forest, so that one may see a giant ash and a Baldwin apple almost touching one another over a barbed-wire fence and wrestling underground for such sustenance as the soil will g-rant. And all over the mountain sides are roads in spots which seem inaccessible to the observer from below, down which come the supplies of basswood and poplar (or "popple" in the vernacular) for the Excelsior Mills, and birch, beech and maple for the large chair factory of Hiram Whitney visible just ahead, beside the huge piles of blue-stone flagging and curbing which fill the yards at AUaben, at which station we now make a halt. ALLABEN. This is a busy little place for considerable shipping is done, but there is a pleasant welcome ready for the careworn visitor in search ALLABEN P O ^^ good air, pure water and rest. Across the ULSTER CO n' Y bridge, within a stone's throw of the station are the two Riseley cottages. G. B. Riseley has room for twenty. Apply. Mrs. Rose Griffin, in the other Riseley house, has room for fifteen. Apply. Geo. H. Gulnick, 100 yards along on the road to Shandaken, has room for fifteen. Apply. Robert Fox, a short distance further on this road takes twelve. Apply. Taking this road in the other direction, toward Phoenicia, — nearly a mile below is Broad Street Hollow, the road turning up the hollow toward the left and leading to two houses about a mile from this turn. H. J. Newell has room for twenty. Apply. Geo. Ennist has room for sixteen. Apply. Following down the main road toward Phoenicia, half a mile below, is Jacob Whitney's. Room for fifteen. $7. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and many others) for sale at prices noted on back cover pag-e. R. FERRIS, Artist Photographer, West Shokan, N. Y. 82 THE CATSKILLS CHAPTER XX. SHANDAKEN. BUSHNELLVILLE, WESTKILL, SPRUCETON, AND LEXINGTON. FROM Allaben to Shandaken is said to be a mile. It reminds one of a "mile" in the Adirondacks, where they always throw -4- in a bit extra because the soil is so poor. No one who travels this mile to Shandaken will ever dispute the leng-th of it, with a view to asking- for good measure. Just after leavings the station Peck Hollow opens on the rig-ht g-iving- a distant view of North Dome. A g-ood trout stream comes down into the Creek from up in there. A little farther and the beautiful Fox Hollow opens on the left, an immense amphitheatre with the westerly, — and lower, — peak of Panther Mountain at the further side. From this Hollow flows another noted trout stream. About three-quarters of a mile above Allaben we pass the exten- sive chair factory of Hiram Whitney. A specialty of this factory is <-LJA...r^AixrTKi r. r^ ^ Hnc of caued chairs and rockers for export. SHANDAKEN P. O., _. . . ^ ... c^-ntrn, r^r^ K. v The mouutaius all about have furnished maple, ULSTER CO., N. Y. ^ ' beech and birch, ash and walnut, to the saws of this factory for some years, and now the mountains of the West- kill chain are being- drawn upon, with no danger of scarcity for many years to come. A short half-mile farther under the shadow of mossy ledges dripping with numerous springs, and we reach the Shandaken station. The view from the station onward toward Big Indian is most attractive as one looks about. The mountain spurs seem to dove- tail and at the end of the view is Balsam Mountain showing plainly its great height. Close by the station, the track running almost through the door- yard, is The Clarendon, M. C. Wait, Proprietor. $2 a day. Around the corner to the left, — toward Big Indian and on the road to that place is C. B. Votee's. Room for fifteen. $7 and $8. Turning to the right after leaving the station we reach the principal house of the town, the Palace Hotel, about three minutes walk, crossing the bridge on the way. The Palace Hotel stands upon a fine natural terrace above the roadway. It is a family resort as well as for transient guests, and is the summer home of many who come early and remain late in the season, to whom special rates are generously made by the proprietor. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 83 The accommodations are first-class in every respect; and with its recent renovation and refurnishing- this house has now all the im- provements of a first-class hotel. It is lighted with gas, heated by steam, fitted with electric bells and has modern bath and toilet rooms. Two hundred guests can be entertained at one time. Post- office, telegraph and express offices in the hotel. Local amusements are bowling-, tennis and croquet, billiards and pool, and music every evening. Dancing at appointed times. Out-door recreations are walking, riding- and driving for which good livery and saddle horses THE PALACE HOTEL, HIRAM WHITNEY, PROPRIETOR. are on hand. Guests who bring their own horses will have them well cared for and may expect to see their horses benefitted by a chang-e of air as well as themselves. Terms, — transient guests $3 per day; single rooms $10 to S15 per week, double rooms for two, $18 to $24, depending- upon location. Hiram Whitney, Proprietor. F. X. Nufer, Manager. Shandaken is a paradise for fishermen. The Bushnellville stream is a famous one and runs down in front of the Palace Hotel. The Esopus is close by, and half a mile away are the Peck Hollow and Fox Hollow streams, to say nothing of a dozen small tributaries. In the rear of the Palace Hotel there is a fine outlook up the Bushnellville Clove on one side and over the Shandaken Valley on the other, from the top of a low hill which is appropriately named Windy Brow because of the constant breeze found there. It is a favorite resort for the sfuests of the hotel. From the ledges across 84 THE CATSKILLS THE BUSHNELLVILLE CLOVE FROM THE LEDGES. Palace Hotel at the Right, Nearly Hidden Amoug the Trees. the track from the station, easily reached in fifteen min- u t e s' walk, there is a very fine view of the clove, also of the country toward B i g- Indian. The B ushnellville Clove, too, is a succession of delig-hting- scenes. The Palace Hotel stands in an ang-le between the Bushnellville road on the left and the road to Phoenicia on the rig"ht, — as one faces the building-. On the Phoenicia road are several houses taking- boarders. J. S. Whitney's hotel. The Whitney House, is open to transients only. $2 per day. C. E. Wood's is a short distance further down the road. Room for ten. $7 to $9. Henry Grifl&th's is about half a mile from the station. Room for twenty-five. Apply. On the Bushnellville road, half a mile from the station, is Chas. Van Valkenberg-'s. Room for thirty. Apply. Bushnellville is three miles from the station on the stag-e-road leading- to Westkill and Lexington. There is a peculiar charm in the scenery of the clove in which this road lies. One naturally composed pic- ture follows another the entire dis- tance to the lake in Kcho Notch, three miles beyond Bushnellville, IN THE BUSHNELLVILLE CLOVE. a COUtinUOUS FEKKIS'S HANDBOOK 85 MRS. W. WRIGHT'S, BUSHNELLVILLE, N. Y. ULSTER CO., N. Y. panorama full of ready - made studies for the artist and pho- tographer. The life of the landscape is the hurrying brook, the Swift Bushkill as it is called, which has a fall of over three hundred feet in the three miles. Just after leaving- the Pal- ace Hotel there is a pretty "bowstring" bridge, and just beyond it an artificial water- fall at the roadside where a small grist mil is located, with a very pretty long and narrow mill-pond. The road winds back and forth, crossing and recrossing the stream, with each turn present- BUSHNELLVILLE P.O. ^^^ ^^ '^'/f'^' '^ "T."^^' J^u'^^ TT tion should be made of the October ettects in this valley when the leaves have changed color. They are exceptionally rich. Mrs. W. Wright's is the first house reached in Bushnellville, — The Mountain Brook House. The Swift Bushkill runs through the "backyard." Room for forty. Apply. J. B. Rider's is near by. Room for twenty. Apply. The Dorothy House is a few rods farther on. This house is under new management this year and guests will be properly and comfortably cared for, and every effort put forth to restore the pleas- ant associations which have made its name a "household word" in years past. Mr. Eli D. Jenk- ins, the owner of the house, isnow in personal con- trol. Room for thirty. Apply. From here onward toward Westkill, the val- ley winds more and more and the level bottom lands become the DOROTHY HOUSE, BUSHNELLVILLE. narrower as the ^li d. jenkins, proprietor. 86 THE CATSKILLS hills close in. Finally there is just the road and the brook and a long- strip of sweet moun- tain g-rass scarcely twenty feet in width with ledges overhanging it in a delightfully picturesque fashion. Then comes a spot where the g-rass is no more and the road and stream are in a heap, the road above and the stream under the bridge. Hence the road is cut into the side of the ravine leaving the brook to tum- ble along- in the cleft below. A mile further and we reach Echo Lake a long, narrow level of water, vibrant with reflections of vivid g-reens. It is broken half way down its length by the debris of a landside and some decaying logs which ought to be cleared away, and the whole sweep of water be free. This pretty lakelet is a favorite spot for visitors to Shandaken. Beyond the lake the road climbs still higher for another half- mile and then beg-ins the long- descent to Westkill, which being shorter in dis- tance than the Bushnellville side is also steep- er. Echo Notch, or Deep Notch, as it was formerly called, is very deep as compared with the moun- tain heights above it, but hig-h up when com- pared with the settle ments on either side The ride through it is one of interest. The magnificent orig-inal forest is on the one hand, and the great ledges on the other, draped with mosses of every shade of bronzy purples and greens and rich browns, and fantastically decorated with patches of pale gray-green and gray-pink lichens. G. D. Baldwin's Echo Notch House is the first we come to, seven miles from the station at Shandaken. Room for thirty. $6 to $8. Just be^-ond this is the Westkill Hotel, W. B. Whitney, Proprietor. This was formerly the Deyo House. Room for fifty. $1.50 per day. $6 to $9 per week. A few rods further is the post-office facing down the main street. The road passing it goes on to Lexington. On this road about a mile out is E. A. Chamberlain's. Room for twenty. Apply. VIEW IN WESTKILL VILLAGE. WESTKILL P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK 87 Near bj is C. Humphrey's. Room for thirty. Apply. Two miles from the post-office is S. C. Chamberlain's. Room for iifty. Apply. (See under Lexing-ton.) Returning- to the main street which leads on to Spruceton, we iind near the corner Sherwood Deyo's. Room for twenty-live. $7. Miss Alice M. Ford's is across the street. Room for fifteen. Apply. W. P. Simmons takes fifteen. Apply. Lorenzo Deyo's is a quarter of a mile farther on. Room for twenty-five. Apply. BIG INDIAN VALLEY FROM PARKER'S HILLSIDE PASTURE.* James W. Dutcher's house at the left. Balsam Mountain in the distance. Chris. Reilly's is nearly two miles from the post-office, on the same road, —to Spruceton. Room forty. Apply. Continuing- on this road a long mile further we reach Spruceton, a small villag-e located at the foot of the western slopes of Hunter SPRUCETON P O Mountain, 4052 feet high, with Big- Westkill GREENE CO N y' fountain, 3900 feet, on the south, and Van ■' ■ ■ Valkenburgh Peak on the north, 3800 feet high. This g-roup of g-iants gives a g-randeur of character to the surrounding scenery. The Maple Grove House, Geo. A. Van Valkenburgh, Proprietor, has room for forty. $6 to S8. W. C. Van Valkenburgh takes twenty. $6 to $8. * (Very fine photographs, ii by 14 in., of this view. See back cover page.) 8» THE CATSKILLS The stag^e Hue to Lexing-ton from Shandaken passes over the road described throug-h Bushnellville and Westkill and beyond this latter town four miles, but as the larger number of passeng^ers go by- way of Hunter the description of Lexing-ton has been placed in that chapter. From Westkill there is a road over the mountain to Halcott Centre (see Fleischmann's). It is mentioned here to speak only of the superb view from one of its highest reaches. It is a difficult road because of its steep grades, which, in several places, are suited rather to a goat than to a horse. But the roadway is good, and a climber on foot will be well repaid for the effort. ■«i$i$$i*S«- CHAPTER XXI BIG INDIAN, OI.IVEREA AND SLIDE MOUNTAIN FROM Shandaken to Big Indian is three miles measured on the level and one hundred and fifty feet measured vertically. The spurs of Panther Mountain on the left and Rose Mountain on the right crowd one another in a dovetailing fashion and force the Esopus to wind across and back in the narrow valley, and the railroad follows the stream. There is a small bit of level bottom land about a mile out from Shanda- ken, and here Jas. Donahue has plant- ed his "Forest Home " visible from the car windows on the right. Soon after passing his place we g"et a charming view up the Creek from a bend at the track, the b r i d g- e from Wade's mill in the VIEW AT WADE'S BRIDGE. foreground, and the FERRIS S HANDBOOK 89 BIG INDIAN P. O., ULSTER CO., N. Y. fal s at Wade's dam being- ia sig-ht far up the stream. The Belle Ayr Mountain fills in the distance. A mile further the station is reached. This is a busy spot. Here the extra locomotive waits to help the train up the steep grades, of Pine Hill, and Wm. Atkins's stag-es stand waiting- for passen- gers to Olivera, Slide Mountain post-office, Winnisook Lodg-e and so on to Clary ville in Sullivan Co., by way of the beautiful and wild Neversink country. Taken altog-ether this stag-e line trav- erses about the wildest country in the Catskills on any reg-ular route. The Big Indian valley is very wild, resembling the Adiron- dacks rather than the average Catskills. At the station the wagon road crosses the track at right angles, the road toward the right, or northward, leading across the Big Indian stream and the Esopus, — two bridges, — to the highway between Shandaken and Pine Hill. W. Marsh's house is on this road, the first from the sta- tion. Room for twenty-five. Apply. On the Shandaken road just below the junction is D. C. Butcher's. Room for twenty. $5 to S7. Jas. Donahue's "Forest Home" is reached by this road, a long mile from this corner. Room for fifty. Apply. D. C. Myers's is a few rods below Donahue's entrance, for ten. Apply. On the road toward Pine Hill, turning to the left at the junction with the cross road to the station, Andres Cole's is first, a long quarter-mile from the railroad. Room for twenty. Apply. On a branch road leading to the left at Cole's, is Wm. E. Garri- son's with room for twenty-five. S5 to $8. Half a mile farther on this road, toward the Pine Hill, is W. C. Misner's, which will be described under that chapter as Mr. Misner gets his mail at the Pine Hill P. O., but his guests usually come by way of Big Indian, as it is so much nearer. AT BIG INDIAN STATION. Balsam Mountain on the left, Pine Hill ou the right in the background. Room 90 THE CATSKILLS WM E. GARRISON'S. Belle Ayr Mountain in the Background. The next house is Mrs. G. W. Misner's. Room for forty. Ap- ply- Isaac Smith's is close bj. Room for thirty. Apply. Returning- now to the station we g"0 southward, with a short turn toward the west along- the track for a few rods. G. W. Lament's hotel is just across the track. Room for thirty. Apply. (). J. Moh'neux's is a few rods farther on between the road and the railroad. Room for fifteen. Apply. Ag-ain the road turns south, into the Big- Indian Valley. After a quarter of a mile a bridge carries a road toward the rig^ht, leading- up into the Lost Clove. Mrs. C. J. Griffin's is half a mile up in this beautiful clove, one of the handsomest in the reg-ion. Room for forty. Apply. On the main road again at the distance of a long- mile from the station is James Cruickshank's. Room for six. Apply. About a mile further is Jonathan Barnum's. Room for thirty. Apply. This brings us to another post-office, Oliverea, to which Mr. Barnum's mail should be addressed. Near by is E. D. Butcher's. Room for fifteen. Apply. Norman Rikert has room for ten. Apply. Van Wyck Knight has room for eight. Apply. This bring-s us to the store and post-office. Just beyond it is the hotel, Silas Burton, j^roprietor, with room for twenty-five at $1 per day. A few rods up the road a bridg-e takes us across to several houses clustered about the church. * Geo. E. Jocelyn has room for sixty. $7 to $10. Edg-ar Haynes takes thirty. $6. Willis R. Robinson takes twenty-five. S5 to $7. This road leads on up into Jocelyn Hollow, half a mile, to Geo. Butcher's. Room for twenty. Apply. Returning- now to the main road we g-o on southward up the OLIVEREA, P ULSTER CO , O N. Y. W FERRIS S HANDBOOK 91 valley. Rounding- a spur on the left we come out on a point which commands a very fine view, across the meadow lands, some thirty feet below us, to the slopes of Big- Indian Mountain. Scarcely a quarter of a mile away is Byron Butcher's, the roof of the house showing- above the trees which surround it, and a few minutes brings us to LOOKING UP THE LOST CLOVE, TOWARD MRS. GRIFFIN'S. Room here for seventy- the " Slide Mountain House " as it is called. five. Apply. Opposite Byron Butcher's there is a road leading across into Burnham Hollow. John Burnham takes twenty. $7. Farther on up the Hollow is Martin Maben's. Room for twenty. $6. From Davis's hill, across from Burnham's, there is a splendid view up the valley for nearly three miles, all the houses being- in sight up to the top of the hill at Miles Parker's, and the immense masses of Panther Mountain on the left and Big- Indian Mountain on the right show to g-reat advantag-e. There is also a pretty view up Burnham Hollow and a fine outlook down the valley, which seems rather tame after the others which are so wild. Returning- to the main road ag-ain at Byron Butcher's we g-Q on up the valley for half a mile to F. A. Brimer's. With the late additions to this house there are now accommodations for sixty. $6 and $7. Nearly a mile fur- ther, and four miles from the Big- Indian station, is Warren Johnson's. Room for +'hir+ '5^A fn '?^« LOOKING DOWN THE VALLEY FROM MILES PARKER'S HOUSE inirty. ^O XO 550. ^^.^^ ^^^^ P ^ ^^ ^^^ Right. Balsam Mtn. in the Distance. 92 THE CATSKILLS SLIDE MOUNTAIN P O ULSTER CO., N. Y. About a mile farther on is the pretty Episcopal chapel and just hejond it on the slope of Panther Mountain, up which the road climbs out of the valley, is Jas. W, Butch- er's and in this house is the Slide Moun- tain post-office. The distinction between this house and the Slide Mountain House, two miles below should be borne in mind, as the similarity in names is some- times perplex- ing-. Byron Butcher's Slide Mountain House is near Oliverea. James Butcher's Panther Moun- tain House and the Slide Moun- tain P. O. is two miles farther up the valley. Room for fifty. $6. Georg-e Butch- er's house was destroyed by fire last fall. Whether it will be rebuilt in time for guests this year is uncertain. Miles Parker's Falls House is the last on this road, a few rods beyond Jas. Butcher's. Room for forty. $7 to $10. Opposite Parker's is a pasture up which winds a steep and stony road, but ten min- utes climbing-, in- cluding halts for breath, takes one to a point from which ane of the finest views in the reg-ion may be enjoyed. Still hig^her one may g-ain a view of Slide Mountain, a near by view, for this hig-h- est of the Catskills is not far from here. Indeed the ascent is usually made from JAMES W. DUTCHER'S. Slide Mountain P. O. MILES PARKER'S HOUSE. FERRIS S HANDBOOK 93 here either on foot for the whole six miles, or three miles of it may be made with a " team " of some sort. In either case the stage road is followed to a fork near the Winnisook Lodg-e. Then leav- ing" the stage road, the left hand road is taken, crossing the bridge and just a few yards beyond is the trail turning off toward the left. The view from Slide Mountain has been described too often to be re- peated here. A pan- oramic engraving of the view can be had at the Slide Moun- tain post-office, and with one of these, the sixty-seven peaks in view can be correctly located and the en- joyment of the trip be much enhanced. There are several pretty falls about this wildwood post-office which are visited by hundreds every season, the one at Parker's mill being the largest. Gem Falls, farther up the stream, is very pretty. FALLS AT MILES PARKER'S MILLS. -»$$i$$:$i$^ CHAPTEP XXII. PINE HILL. ■" EAVING Big Indian station the railroad keeps a westerly course until it crosses the Big Indian stream and then swings around J on to the slope of Pine Hill, a part of Belle Ayr Mountain, and begins the steepest climb so far encountered. Within three miles an. ascent of four hundred and fifty feet is made. In the sum- mer, when the trains are heavy, an extra locomotive is attached at Big Indian and even with this the progress is slow. The desirable position for a", traveler in this climb is at the rear door of the rear car. The views down the " hill " are very fine. Something can be caught from the windows next the valley, and they are second choice. 94 THE CATSKILLS PINE HILL VILLAGE FROM THE RAILROAD. Monka Hill in the distance,— Grand Hotel at the left ; Towiisend Hollow to the right, with valley of Birch Creek leading up to it. for all cannot stand at the door. About a mile up we beg-in to see the houses in the lower end of the village of Pine Hill, the Rip Van Winkle House, an odd structure covered with olive-gray shingles being first. Next to it is the Mountain Inn in a grove of trees. This house was formerly the noted Guigou House. Then there is a little vacant space, then A. P. Dunn's cottage on a hill across the road, then the Cornish House on the nearer side with its many gables and little towers, the white Alpine next and then the village becomes too dense to describe definitely. The train passes the village and halts just beyond it where there is a chance to get a road down on an easy grade. If Pine Hill were the objective point the entrance could have been easier for the locomotive and more convenient for the sojourn- ers and dwellers in the village, but the Summit is to be surmounted and the height gained reserved against the climb that is left. There are so many boarding houses in Pine Hill that it is hardly possible to make their locations plain to a stranger, and after the writer has done his best it will still be wise for an unacquainted vis- itor to ask for more definite directions upon crossing the bridge at the upper end of the village. From the station are two roads, one leading up the valley, away PINE HILLP O. ^T^om the main village, and one down into the ULSTER CO. N. Y. "^^^^ village. Taking the first one mentioned we find several houses in the vicinity of the reservoir. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 95 MAIN STREET, PINE HILL. Hotel Ulster on the left. Sentinel Office next. Grounds of the Brewerton on the rights Hill's store at the sunny spot below, on that side. H. Robinson takes eig^ht. Apply. Henry J. Myers, at the Elm Tree House, takes thirty-five. $7 to $9. J. K. Snedeker has room for twenty-five. $7 to $9. The Bonnie View House accommodates forty. Apply. On the road, down the hill at the first bridg^e is Mrs. E. C. Cas- tle's, Room for twenty. $7. Close by is E. C. FoUett's. Room for fifteen. Apply. O. M. FoUett's is here also. Room for twenty. Apply. A few rods further is the second bridg-e, and a road running- around the hill to the left, on which is Geo. H. Gavett's "Victoria Cottage." Room for twenty. $7 to $9. This road leads up to the Summit and The Grand Hotel, also to Griffin's Corners, and by a cross-road into Townsend Hollow. Returning to the bridge at the head of the main street (Main Street) the Hotel Ulster is on the left ; H. F. Baker, Proprietor. Accommodations for one hundred and twenty-five guests. $2.50 per day. $7 to $10 per week. The Brewerton, W. M. Brewer, Proprietor, is directly opposite. Room for one hundred. $2.50 per day. Special rates by the week. Apply. • . A few steps beyond the Brewerton is the Central Hotel, Clinton Johnson, Proprietor. $2 per day. 96 THE CATSKILLS Hill's store and hall comes next and then Geo, Cole's Pine Hill Hotel all on the same (southerly) side of the street. $1.50 per day. Nearly opposite is the Avon Inn, F. W. LaMent, Proprietor. $2 per day day. $9 per week. Next door is Mrs. A. P. Noel's. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Across the street a road runs up on the hillside, between Cole's Hotel and Hill's store, to Mrs. T. S. LaMent's Mountain View House. Room for fifty. Apply. Next to Mrs. Noel's, on that side of the street is H, Crosby's. Room for fifteen. $7. Mr. Crosby also conducts a livery. THE CORNISH HOUSE, PINE HILL, N. Y. Next door is the Orchard Park House, conducted by D. J. Hunt. Room for forty. Apply. Across the street next to the church (Methodist) is Mrs. B. F. Cornish's. Room for twelve. Apply. Next door is The Alpine, A. B. Smith, Proprietor. Accommoda- tions for one hundred. $2 per day. $8 per week. Next to the Alpine is the well-known Cornish House, so well- known that one no sooner hears of Pine Hill than he thinks of the Cornish House. This much-to-be-desired result from an advertiser's point of view, has been achieved by Mr. Cornish through an admir- able system of advertising- for many years, and no one will beg-rudg-e him the practical returns which are now his. FEKRIS'S HANDBOOK 97 PARLORS OF THE CORNISH HOUSE. The Cornish House is built upon one of the natural terraces of Belle Ayr Mountain, and the grounds are much larger than those about any other house in the village. Mr. Cornish's taste for beauty in land- scape gardening is shown in the way the grounds have been laid out, and also in the way they are cared for, all un- der his personal di- rection. The fine bit of terrace work about the tennis court, with its fault- less curves, is evidence of his superior ability and skill. This tennis court, by the way, is probably the finest in the Catskills, — none better, at all events. The house has been recently enlarged and now accommodates one hundred guests. Added room has been given to the kitchen de- partment, which with the newest of modern appliances is very com- plete. The little private balconies attached to many of the rooms are a delightful addition to the means of enjoyment. The sanitary ar- rangements are up-to-date, and as faultless as combined skill and energy can secure. As might be expected the Cornish House is first- class and receives the most desirable of guests. Terms $8 to $15 per week, $2 to $2.50 per day. Address Jas. C. Cornish, Pine Hill, N. Y. Below the Corn- - ; -- — . , -- ish House and back ' ."" from the street is Mrs. John M. Smith's. Room for thirty. $6 to $11. Opposite the Cornish House is Mrs. John Barry's, ■^oom for twenty. Apply. A. P. Dunn's is on a little hill a few miles farther down the valley. Room for forty DINING-ROOM AT THE CORNISH HOUSE. Apply. 98 THE CATSKILLS. THE MOUNTAIN INN. THOS. R. MOORE. The^ Mountain Inn is next and a quarter of a mile below. As the " Guig-ou House" it has had a long- and prosperous existence, which it will not lose with its old name now practically meaning-- less. Thos. R. Moore is the present proprietor. Accommodations for two hundred. Terms from $10 upward per week. Just below is the Rip Van Winkle House, S. P. Van Loan, Pro- prietor. Accommodations for one hundred. $10 to $25 per week. $3 per day. W. C. Misner's is a mile down the valley, reached more easily from Big- Indian sta- tion. Mr. M i s n e r was formerly proprie- tor of the "Belle Ayr" at Hig-hmount, now occupied as a summer school for boys. At the present location there are ac- commodations for twenty. Apply for terms. Address to Pine Hill P. O. Returning- now up Main Street to the SHADY LANE. w. c. MISNER'S. first cross strcct Open- FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 99 ing- toward tlie north, opposite the Central Hotel. This is called Elm Street, and on the corner is the oii&ce of the Pine Hill Sentinel^ U. S. Grant Cure, Editor and Proprietor. The Sentinel has quite a larg-e out of town subscription list among- reg"ular visitors and owners of cottag-es who like to keep posted as to Pine Hill's doing-s in their absence. Following Elm Street we cross the bridge to the "Zephjr," a novelty, souvenir and refreshment store, largely patronized by young- people in search of Huyler's candy and similar edibles. The Winterton, D. T. "Winter, Proprietor, is next. Room for fifty. Apply. Continuing, we cross a bridge over Birch Creek to " The Wat- son," S. H. Lee, Proprietor. Room for thirty-five. $7 to $10. Toward the right the road leads down past the handsome Church of the Transfiguration. Edgar Mill's house is a little farther down, beyond the church. Room for ten. Apply. Returning to the bridge near "The Watson," we turn to the left up Birch Creek. H. Whipple's Green Valley House, is the first, a long half a mile from the station. Room for twenty. Apply. H. A. Goldman's is next. Room for twenty-five. $7 and S8. De Forest Bishop is next, in the house formerly Hezekiah Gossoo's. Room for forty. $7 to $9. Across the street is Egbert Johnson's. Room for thirty-five. $7 to $9. Opposite Johnson's is the summer cottage of Pres. Morton, of Stevens Institute, and along up the valley are several cottages, — Chancellor MacCracken's, Mrs. J. C. Maben's, Wm. Monroe's, Mr. Henderson's, Mrs. Penrose's, and several others which are rented for this season. Prof. Arthur Wisner, of New York, has both the Dougherty and Crosby cottages this year. Farther on, beyond all these, is A. S. Gossoo's, with accommo- dations for thirty-five. S7 to $10. Half a mile further up, and around the head of Townsend Hol- low, we reach the Townsend houses, three of them. Warren Townsend has room for fifty. Apply. James Townsend takes twenty-five. Apply. Isaac Townsend takes twelve. Apply. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and many others) for sale at prices noted on back cover page. R. FERRIS, Artist Photographer, West Skokan, N. Y. 100 THE CATSKILLS. The g-uests for these houses usually g-o to the Grand Hotel sta- tion, which is a short mile away, during- the summer season, but all mail is addressed to Pine Hill P. O. A cross road leads from near th ese houses, or nearer to Gossoo's, where there are four corners, back over the mountain to Bushnellville, about three miles. It is a pleasant tramp with many enjoyable views from time to time. The other three roads at the corners lead one to Pine Hill by way of Birch Creek, one to Highmount and the Grand Hotel station, and the other to the Townsend houses, and beyond them, northward to Halcott Centre three miles; southwesterly to Griffin's Corners three miles. WARREN TOWNSeND'S HOUSE. CHAPTER XXIII. GRAND HOTEL STATION HIGHMOUNT. 1ROM the Pine Hill Station to the Grand Hotel station is a short H half mile by foot power, — by rail it is nearer two miles, dis- posed in the form of a double horse-shoe curve to gain the two hundred feet and more required to overcome the summit of the pass, which is 1886 feet above the sea-level. The view down the Pine Hill valley as the train rounds the curve is one never to be forgotten. The station is named for the New Grand Hotel built upon the divide on a plateau, or bench of Monka Hill on the north side of the railroad. It is said to be on the county line, half in Ulster County and half in Delaware County. From its broad verandahs at either end are views wide in extent but of very different characters. The Ulster County view is wild and majestic, the Delaware County is mild FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 101 and pastoral. For those who have a little spare energ-y the view from Monka Hill is recommended as it covers more territory and is distinctly liner, giving-, eastward, a tine view down the Birch Creek valley and including- much of the villag-e of Pine Hill, enlivening- the foreg-round. Many visitors from Pine Hill and Griffin's Corners come up here to this lookout. The New Grand Hotel is a larg-e and imposing- building- with a frontag-e of nearly seven hundred feet, — over an eig-hth of a mile. Post-office and teleg-raph office in the house. The name of the post- THE NEW GRAND HOTEL. Summit Station in the foreground,— Monka Hill back of hotel. office is Summit Mountain. Accommodations for five hundred g-uests. Transient rates $4.5U per day. Special rates by the week and month. The country about here, especially towardPine Hill has been built up with handsome summer residences and is acquiring- a HIGHMOUNT P.O. park-like appearance with closely cut lawns ULSTER CO. n!y. ^^^ specimen shrubbery. Dr. Butler, of Brooklyn, owns several of these cottag-es, which are rented from year to year. Ira Olmstead's is the nearest boarding- house to the station about 200 yards away down the track toward Griffin's Corners. Room for twelve. $8. The .Grampian is over toward the Belle Ayr Mountain, south from the station about half a mile. Mrs. H. Hausmann, Proprietress. Accommodations for sixty. S3 per day. $10 to S15 per week. 102 THE CATSKILIvS. VIEW INTO HIGHMOUNT FROM NEW GRAND HOTEL. Belle Ayr Mtu. iu the Background. The Rossmore is half a mile on the road toward Pine Hill. S. Hoffman, Proprietor. Room for sixty. $8 to $15. The Hoffman House is south of the track on a loop road which joins Pine Hill road below. Mrs. John F. Hill is proprietress. Room for thirty. Apply. Mrs. S. Tompkins's is next on the same road. Room for thirty. $6 to $10. From the railroad station it is about a mile around to the Townsend houses in what is called Townsend Hollow, really about on the same level, the " hollow" heading- here and running- down to to Griffin's Corners, back of Monka Hill. At this station also, during- the summer months the g-uests for A. S. Gossoo's usually alig-ht. See Pine Hill for particulars of these houses. ;€:$^ CHAPTER XXIV. FLEISCH MANN'S, griffin's corners and halcott centre. THE train leaves the summit station and starts down into Dela- ware County with a sense of relaxed effort; for the travellers feel the energ-y put forth in climbing- up Pine Hill. Now the brakes are put on and we roll g-ently along on the down grade. For a short distance the scenic peculiarities of Ulster County seem to lap FERRIS S HANDBOOK, 103 VILLAGE OF GRIFFIN'S CORNERS FROM THE RAILROAD. 'Over into "Delaware," and bits of rug-g-ed ledg-e, a few boulders and steepled evergreens carry the feeling- of the wilderness over the divide. But even here and there between them is caug-ht a far off view^ of cultivated hillsides which tell the story of a coming- chang-e, and scarce a half-mile is passed before the new country is before us. Fence rows marked by strag-g-ling- rows of trees reach away up the mountain slopes, and sometimes g-o over them, flanked by broad meadows on either side. This is the land of milk and honey, devoted to the Alderney cow and the busy bee, and incidentally to the sum- mer boarder. The cottag-er has also "planted his foot" upon this THE LAST BIT OF WILDERNESS. 104 THE CATSKILLS. fair and fertile reg-ion, and there are hundreds of happj and hand- some homes all throug-h this region. The mountains are still with us but their lines are less pro- nounced and distinctive than in Ulster County. Their slopes, too, are g^entler and admit of meadows nearly to their summits on which generally speaking-, there is a crest of trees. But even the trees show a marked difference being- deciduous, instead of everg-reen. Larg-e forests of sug-ar maples are here and scattered all through them are sap-houses whence issue the familiar "bricks" of maple sug-ar, now, unfortunately, too often so mingled with cheap beet, or cane, sugar as to have lost nearly all the flavor of the maple. But there are many honest sug-ar makers, and it is possible to get absolutely pure maple sugar of fine quality if one knows "beans" well enough to re- fuse the adulterated. Taste before you buy. Griffin's Corners comes into view as we round a hillside about a mile below the summit, snug- gled together beside the little stream which is the east branch of the Dela- ware River. The "corners" are pro- THE FLEiscHMANN's HILLSIDE. duced by the Halcott Looking back from Clovesville. Belle Ayr Mountain in the background, r O a d whlch enters the village at its centre. We pass by the village nearly a mile before the train stops at Fleischmann's station, so named because of the extensive settle- ment of several members of this family and their friends, who have converted the whole hillside south of the station into a park of rare beauty, a charming setting for their elegant summer cottages. From the station northward also are many handsome dwellings, and others still across the valley. The nearest boarding houses are at Grif&n's Corners, nearly a GRIFFIN'S CORNERS P. O.. "^'^^ ^^^"^ ^^^ station. DELAWARE CO N Y '^^^ first is the Hotel Fleischmann, E. C. Lasher, Proprietor. SI. 50 per day. A few rods up the street on the right is Mrs. Augusta Scott's handsome cottage. . Room for thirty. Apply. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 105 Directly opposite is Mrs. W. H. Crandall's. Room for ten. Apply. A few steps further is Jacob Beihler's. Room for thirty. Apply. Just below this house the Red Kill road turns off to the left, — northward. On this road, three-fourths of a mile out, is Jerry Mun- son's. Room for twenty. Apply. At the village "square," — which is a triang-le,^the Halcott Road turns off up the hill toward the left. At this ang-le is G. H. Lasher's Hotel. SI. 50 per day. T. C. Banker's cottag-e is the first on the Halcott Road. Accom- modations for sixty. $10 to $15. Just beyond Banker's is a road leading- up the hill to the left, to D. H. Boug-hton's. Room for fifty. $7. The Switzerland, Rapp & Brownold, Proprietors, is on our rig-ht as we g-o up to Boug"hton's, on the left as we g-o up the Halcott Road^ in the ang-le between the two. Accommodations for eighty. $10 to $15. Opposite the Switzerland is Martha J. Griffin's. Room for six- teen. Apply. Across the Halcott stream, up on the hillside, is a new house g-oing- up. It will hardly be ready for this season's occupancy. It is owned by Ralph Todd, who has another house two miles out on the Halcott road. Louis Metzger's is the next cottage on the road to Halcott. Room for forty. Apply. Hiram Reynolds is next. Room for twenty. Apply. This house is a mile and a quarter from Fleischmann's station. W. D. Ballard's house is next, two miles from the station. Room for thirty. Apply. Alec Morrison's is a quarter of a mile further. This house has been doubled in size since last season and now accommodates eighty. $8 to $10. De Witt Morrison's cottage is just beyond and across the road. Room for fifteen. Apply. Over the bridge is M. Garrison's. Room for thirty-five. $6 to $10. Ralph Todd's is on a branch road to the left, half a mile from Garrison's. Room for twenty. $6. We are here so near to Halcott Centre that we will glance at the houses there before returning to that section of Griffin's Corners east HALCOTTCENTRE P. O. ""^ ^\^/[^'^''^'^.\\ n ' ^ - \u ^^^r-^.rr r.r^ k. ^ Half a mik from Garrisons is the GREENE CO., N. Y. ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ p ^ ^^^ j^ ,^j ^^^^^_ man's store and boarding house. Room for thirty-five. S6 to $10. 106 THE CATSKILLS. A VIEW AT HALCOTT CENTRE. To the left of the store a road runs up into a hollow. The first branch road to the rig-ht leadings up quite a steep hill g-oes to Avery Boughton's, three and a half miles from the station at Fleischmann's. Room for fifty. Apply. Lorenzo Van Valkenburg-h's is a quarter of a mile from where Boug-hton's road turns off. Keeping- on along- this road half a mile we reach the school house. Here are three roads; the left hand one turn- ing- sharply up the hill to C. Carman's. Room for fifty. S5 and $6. Arthur Wileman's is on the middle road. Room for eig-hty. Apply. Robt. Van Valkenbergh's is on the rig-ht hand road leading- past the school house into the valley. Room for eig-hteen. Apply. Returning- now to the store we continue up the main valley, half a mile to Geo. Moseman's. Room for thirty. Apply. A. A. Van Valkenberg-'s is opposite, — just across the bridg-e. Room for sixty. Apply. The road which turns off toward the rig-ht, gfoing- up the moun- tain, leads to Jonathan Whitney's. Room for twenty. Apply. Half a mile farther on, a road turns toward the rig-ht leading- over the Westkill Mountain to Westkill. On this road is Jefferson Mead's. Room for twelve. Apply. On the left hand road going- on up the Little West Kill is A. B. Jenkins. Room for ten. Apply. Returning now to Griffin's Corners at the ''square," we take the street easterly,- — toward Highmount. We cross the bridge at the Herald office. This weekly paper keeps the residents of both Griffin's Corners and Fleischmann's well informed of the doings of the town and has a large yearly subscription list among the summeJ residents and cottagers. Opposite the Herald office is Mrs. E. Fisk's. Room for twelve. Apply. GRIFFIN'S CORNERS P. O. ULSTER CO., N. Y. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 107 M. J. Ballard's is a few rods farther on. Room for thirty. Apply. Still further is W. H. Lasher's. Room for twenty. W. H. O'Conner's is next. Room for thirty-five. Apply. Mr. O'Conner also conducts an extensive laundry business. His building- is fitted up with the newest implements and steam machinery and his collection and delivery wagons go to Big Indian and Pine Hill, High- mount, Halcott Centre, Arkville, Margaretville, Kelly's Corners, Rox- bury. Grand Gorge and Gilboa, during the boarding season, to the great accommodation of the summer visitors. The laundry employs twelve hands and turns out work in excellent style. A little farther the Townsend Hollow road turns off toward the left. On this road is John W. Lasher's. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Nathan B. Furman's is close by. Room for fifteen. Apply. Mrs. C. Hatfield's is half a mile further. Room for thirty. Ap- ply- Griffin's Corners is a progressive town, being imbued with the enterprise of cottage owners. The streets are sprinkled during dry weather, and lighted at night. There is a good water supply from mountain springs and an air of neatness pervades the place. There has been erected this season a grand stand on the ball ground which has also a race track. The national game is fostered by the Fleisch- mann residents as well as those at the Corners and a gay crowd is always on hand to witness the triumphs and tribulations of the diamond. CHAPTER XXV. "ARKVILLE; DRY brook; MARGARETVII.LE, ANDES AND DEI.HI; ARENA, UNION GROVE, SHAVERTOWN AND DOWNSVILI.E. FROM Fleischmann's station to Arkville is about five miles, down hill nearly all the way but on a gentler grade. About a mile below Fleischmann's is a little village, Clovesville by name, where the Red Kill comes into the valley. The country about is sparsely settled and the cleared land is in the smaller proportion. At 108 THE CATSKILLS. ARKVILLE FROM THE NORTHWEST. The road at the right leads to Margaretville around the hill to the right. Pakataghan Mountain in the background. Arkville three valleys open upon a broad plain of rich bottom land. From the east comes the Griffin's Corners stream; from the north the East Branch of the Delaware River; from the south Dry Brook. With this added volume the Delaware River, Kast Branch, becomes quite a stream as it flows down throug^h Marg^aretville. Arkville is being- rapidly built up, scores of new cottag-es having- been added within a few years. It is the resort of a number of artists in landscape who find inspiration in the scenery. The nearest boarding- house to the sta- tion is R. H. Molyneux's, but a few rods away. Room for thirty. D. B. Cole keeps the villag^e hotel. Room for thirty. Apply. E. Kelly has a large house on the road toward Griffin's Corners, ARKVILLE P. O., DELAWARE CO., N. Y. APPROACHING ARKVILLE FROM GRIFFIN'S CORNERS. Meeting of the Delaware River and Dry Brook. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK 109 Room for one hundred and fifty. Room for half a mile from the station. Apply. Henry Deamer's is a little further on the same road, eig-ht. Apply. Embrey Scudder's is a mile beyond at the mill. Room for twenty. Apply. On the road to Roxbury, which turns up the East Delaware val- ley at Molyneux's, Eug-ene G. Morse has room for ten. Apply. C. E. Swart is on the cross road leading over from Marg-aretville to the Roxbury road . Room for ten. Apply. Across the bridg-e at Ark- ville we find the Hoffman House, P. F. Hoffman, Proprietor, near the western end of the bridg-e up on a natural terrace and commanding- fine views A r-» f ^ DRY BROOK VALLEY LOOKING SOUTH. commodations for one hundred and fifty. $2 per day. $7 to SIO per week. To the left after crossing- the bridg-e the Dry Brook road leads to several houses. C. A. Flower's is first, half a mile from the station. Room for twenty. Apply. John F. Street's is close by. Room for twenty. H. N. Georg-e's is half a mile farther on. Room for ten. Apply. Four miles up the Dry Brook Valley is the Dry Brook post-office. Here is a boarding--house kept by D. & O. Todd. Room for fifty. $6. William Todd takes fifteen. $8 to $10. R. H. Georg-e has room for twenty. Apply. Two miles farther up the valley the road turns to the rig-ht to Furloug-h Lake, the mountain resting- place of Mr. Georg-e Gould. Nearly two miles further is Seag-er P. O. and here is Seag-er Lodge, Seag-er & Fairbairn, Proprietors. Room for thirty. $1.50 per day. $7 per week. This house is about eig-ht miles from Arkville station. Margaretville is a brisk and bright little town lying- about a mile south of Arkville, — a mile and a half from the station. It is the DRY BROOK P. O., ULSTER CO., N. Y. SEAGER P. O, ULSTER CO., N.Y. 110 THE CATSKILLS MARGARETVILLEP.O DELAWARE CO., N. Y. IN MARGARETVILLE. market town for a larg-e section of ad- jacent country. It has a bank, several business blocks with g-ood stores, a num- ber of churches and hotels and is a favorite summer resort, the side streets and cross streets being- typical of the ideal country villag-e. On the road across from Ark- ville is Mrs. M. E. Mead's. Room for ten. Apply. Before cross- ing- the bridge into the town we may glance at the houses along the east bank of the river. S. F. Scott's is a quarter of a mile down oppo- site the River- side House in the village. Room for fifty. $7 to $10. E. Keeney's is a short distance farther down. Room for thirty. Apply. P. Dimmick's is half a mile further, nearly three miles from the station. Room for forty. Apply. S. S. Myers is two miles farther, at Huckleberry Hill. Room for twenty. Apply. Returning to the bridge we cross over into the town. The Ack- erly House is within a block. Accommodations for one hundred and fifty. $3 per day. $8 to $15 per ,-*^ 'T*'^'^:!*^ isis&sMssimsmi^^^^^tmmiMi^^^^^^^K week. The Riverside House is a quarter of a mile down the river. Room for forty. Apply. On the cross streets and con- necting streets are several houses. Aug. B o i c e E. KELLY'S. AT ARKVILLE. takcS tCU. Apply. FERRis's HANDBOOK. Ill- Albert A. Halpern takes fifteen. Apply. Mrs. Janet Gill takes fifteen. Apply. Wm. Ackerly takes ten. Apply. W. N. Allaben takes twenty. Apply. Mrs J. McMurray's is on the Roxbury road about a mile out. Room for twenty. Apply. S. P. Ives's is also on t|;iis road. Room for thirty. Apply. A. J. Benedict and Mrs D. Hull have houses up in the hills about five miles from Marg-aretville. Each takes fifteen Write for terms. From Arkville two long- stag-e lines reach out into the country. Stag-es run daily except Sunday. One runs down the river to Downs- ville, a distance of twenty-six miles On the way are several board- ing--houses at the villag-es which the stag-e passes throug-h. Arena is eight miles down stream. ARENA P. O., •^- -^- McNaughton has the larg-est house. DELAWARE CO., N. Y. ^^^"^ ^^^ ^^^ty. Apply. E. H. Carpenter takes thirty. $6 to $8. W. H. Dickson takes ten. Apply. Elizabeth Hadden takes ten. $7. Union Grove is the next post-office, three miles below Arena. UNION GROVE P. O., ^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ twenty. $5. DELAWARE CO., N. Y. James Van Keuren takes twenty. $5. ^ Mrs. Emma Dawson takes fifteen. $5. Shavertown is three miles below Union Grove. Here is the Riverside Cottag-e on the bank of the river, Mrs Edwin Shafer, Pro- prietress Room for thirty. $5 to $8 Address Shavertown P. O., Delaware Co. The stage passes through Pepacton where there are no boarding- DOWNSVILLE P. O. houses and finally reaches Downsville. Here DELAWARE CO. N. Y. ^^^ several houses open to summer visitors. Thos. E. White's Riverside House accom- modates twenty-five. $1.50 per day. $5 to $7 per week. A. H. St John takes twenty. Apply Mrs. A. G St. John takes six. $5. A. E Peck takes ten $6 to $8. On the other stage line which zig-zag-s off in a westerly direction we reach Andes at a distance of twelve miles. This villag-e is nearly ANDES p. O ^^ larg-e as Marg-aretville, and the centre of DELAWARE CO. N. Y. ^" extensive dairy country. It is an old and well-liked summer resort, dating- backtotha time of the stag-e lines before the Ulster and Delaware R. R. was built. There are usually about two hundred summer visitors here in the season. J H- Washburn takes ten. Apply. 112 THE CATSKILLS. Mrs. E H Stevenson takes ten. $6 to $10. Adolphus Frisbee takes twenty. Apply. ' John Dickson takes twenty. Apply James Dickson takes ten. Apply Mrs Sarah McCabe takes twenty. $5 and $6. Isaac Samuels takes twenty. Apply. William Doig- has room for fifteen. APP^J- Mrs H A Kaufman has room for twenty. Apply. Martin Coulter takes fifteen. Apply. Pratt Chamberlain takes twenty Apply. Peter Crispell runs the hotel. Room for thirty. Apply. Delhi is at the end of this stag-e line, twenty-six miles from Ark- ville, but it is more easily reached from Bloomville as the ride from there is only eight miles. See Bloomville. Other points reached from Arkville have houses open in the sum- ...^.. r, /^ mer to ofuests. DUNRAVEN P. O., *= ..... .u ^ ^^ ,, ^, Dunraven is six miles from the station. DELAWARE CO., N. Y. ^^ ..r a f a ^ ^u t, R. W Sanford keeps the Dunraven House. Room for thirty. $6 to $9. Olney Smith takes twenty. Apply. New Kingston is eight long miles, nearer nine, — back of Hal- ^^^.. ^ ^ cottville, from which station also it may NEW KINGSTON P. O., ^ ' ^ , . . ^ ^^ ^^ i., vr be reached by going over the mountain. DELAWARE CO., N. Y. v t^ . i ,u t- ii u Amos Dumond keeps the \ alley House. Room for twenty. $5 and $6. F. M. Ingles has room for fifteen. Apply. A W. & J M. De Silva have a house accommodating fifty at Grant's Mills, three miles from Arena, eleven miles from Arkville. Terms $6 to $9. Address to Grant's Mills P O , Delaware Co. Miss K. More at Cabin Hill, ten miles from Arena, eighteen miles from Arkville, has room for ten. Apply. Cabin Hill, P. O., Delaware Co. M. Dickson's Maple Grove House accommodates ten at Brushland P. O., Delaware Co., ten miles from Arkville. Apply. As might be surmised from the conformation of the country, Arkville is an excellent stopping place for sporting fisherman. Be- side the three streams which unite here to form the East Delaware River, there are half a dozen other streams near by among which may be mentioned the Plattekill and its tributary Weaver Hollow Creek and the Batavia Kill. The latter runs through a fine farming country and entertainment can be had at several farmers' houses, where boarders are not taken as a rule. The two stage lines reach a score of good streams less fished than some and therefore offering heavier basketfuls. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 113 CHAPTER XXVI. KELI.Y S CORNERS AND HALCOTTVILLE. WHILE these two places have separate stations on the rail- road they are but two miles apart and may be g-rouped in the same chapter, being- closely similar in character of scenery. At Arkville the railroad makes a sharp ang-le to turn northward into the Upper East Delaware valley. The country chang-es dis- tinctly, or it may be described as modified from the Arkville scenery. It lies flatter for one thing-. The stream doesn't hurry It loiters along- in a reluctant sort of way as if it had acquired the habit of idling- in the placid ponds above. Life seems to be quiet here and even the milk-train which g-oes hustling- throug-h the Ulster County reg-ion with breathless haste, here puffs along- carelessly, stopping- at every g-roup of -— - Jllllllll mm I ! % ^' ^ •;i>V ! KELLY'S CORNERS P. O., DELAWARE CO., N. Y. milk cans But even approaching kelly-s corners from the north. the locomotive seems an anomaly here We wish it wouldn't puff and scream. At Kelly's Corners, L D. Kelly has room for thirty. Apply. Georg-e Tompkins is on the road toward Halcottville across the Batavia Kill, about half a mile from the station. Room for fifteen. Apply. Nelson Beardsley's is on the other side of the valley, across the river, up on the hillside Room for twenty. Apply Halcottville is about two miles above here and the same peaceful scenery lies between. The first entrance into the villag-e is sudden. The road winds up a slight hill and around a bend to the right when, presto! — we are in a street lined with smart, neat cottages newly painted and "as bright as a button" This extends a quarter of a 114 THE CATSKILLS. HALCOTTVILLE P. O., DELAWARE CO., N. Y. mile to Kelly's Mill, and the stores. The station is across the bridg-e and there we make our start. The Union Hotel, H. E. Ganung-, Proprietor, is close by the sta- tion. Room for twenty-five. Apply. C. Slauson's is next above the hotel, the *Brag-g- Hollow road pass- ing between. Room for fifteen Apply. Up the Brag-g- Hollow road are several houses R. Sandford's is first. Room for six Apply. Chas. Policy's is next. Room for fifteen. Apply. D. W. Hubbell takes twenty. Apply. * MAIN STREET IN HALCOTTVILLE. The other road between Slauson's and the station g-oes to Rox- bury, running beside the mill pond which is over a fourth of a mile in leno-th and half that in width. Beyond this the water is backed up in the brook so as to add three-quarters of a mile more of excellent rowing- ground. Half a mile and more from the station is J B Hink- ley's Room for twenty-five. Apply. J. W. Scudder is up on the hill, about two miles from the station. Room for fifteen. Apply. W. Hewitt takes ten. Apply. Returning now to the station we cross the bridge at the mill over into the main street. G R Sliter's house is nearest. Room for ten. Apply. Geo. W. Hubbell's is next. Room for ten. $7. J. C. Miller's is a little farther on. Room for ten. $6. The roads are good in this vicinity and driving is greatly en- joyed. Bicyclists will find the country through this region well adapted to pleasureable wheeling. FEKKISS HANDBOOK. 115 CHAPTER XXVII. ROXBURY. THE six miles from Halcottville to Roxbury are soon passed over and without exciting- views. As we near Roxburj there is a peculiar formation of hill forms which once seen will always locate the spot again. The expression "Roxbury is just behind that hill" is often heard on both train and wag-on road. There are no hig-h mountains about Roxbury and its elevation being- about 1,500 feet above sea-level the hig-h lands are apparently reduced by that much leaving- them to appear as hills. IN ROXBURY, LOOKING NORTH. Mrs. Lauren's grounds at the left in the ioregrouud. ROXBURY P. O , DELAWARE CO., N. Y. The villag-e is incorporated and is laid out along both sides of a main street about a mile in leng-th. This street has wide sidewalks and street lamps. There is a good water- works, a hig-h school, several churches and g-ood stores. There is also a circulating- library and reading room. Not many boarders g-o here for the summer, but many visitors go to see the Gould Memorial Church, a handsome piece of architectural work. Beside this church (Reformed) there are also Baptist and Methodist churches. The Delaware Valley House is the only hotel at present. P. H. Mitchell, Proprietor. It is a short quarter-mile from the station. $2 per day. 116 THE CATSKILLS. Mrs. G. W. Lauren's is close by. Room for forty. $10 to $15. J. B. Scudder's is next door. Room for fifteen. Apply A. Cronk's is a quarter of a mile down the street opposite the Gould church. Room for fifteen. Apply. Close by on a branch road is Mrs. Harvey White's with room for twenty. Apply. P. Richtmyer's is here also. Room for thirty. Apply. M. D. Parsons's is on a second branch road. Room for twenty. Up the railroad at the settlement called Hubbell's Corners are two houses Geo. Van Valkenberg-h takes fifteen $6 and $7. KEATOR'S POND AT ROXBURY. The town lies just bejoud the trees seen over the end of the pond. I. H. Tyler takes twenty-five. Apply. Two miles down the river from Roxbury is a fine fall of some sixty feet known as Stratton's Falls. About half the distance is Keator's Creamery with a pretty pond Chas. L. Hicks's house is on the hill at the head of the falls. Room for fifty. Apply. Over in the West Settlement about three miles west of the vil- lag-e is Thos S. Smith's. Room for twenty-five. Apply. R. S. Smith's is near by. Room for ten. The town clock is in the hig-h-school tower and strikes the hours and half hours on one of the sweetest toned bells ever heard At night when all is still its voice sing's out with gentle complaint that another day has flown, and wistful query as to how it has been spent. In this bell the Roxbury folk have a treasure, if they appre- ciate it. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and many others) for sale Et prices noted on back cover page. K.. FERRIS, Artist Phoiographer, West Shokan, N. Y. FEKRIS'S HANDBOOK. 117 CHAPTER XXVIII. GRAND GORGE AND SOUTH GILBOA ; PRATTSVILLE, GII.BOA, CONESVILLE, MANORKIEL, MACKEy'S, BROOME CENTRE. FOR two miles beyond Roxbury the scenery is of the same quiet character as about that pleasant town, and at this distance is the settlement of HubbelPs Corners. This has a pretty loca- tion at the junction of three hollows. Montgomery Hollow comes in from the east, and Pleasant valley from the west, with the upper GRAND GORGE LOOKING BACK FROM THE ROAD TO GILBOA. East Delaware Valley,— what remains of it, — from the north. Each bring-s two roads, so there is a raison d'etre for the name as to the " Corners " part of it. Just above here the scenery changes rapidly. The mountains seem to grow, and crowd together, as we look at them, and when the track carries us around the last curve into the gorge, the situation is one of grandeur. High up on the right is Irish Mountain, and Bald Mountain looms up on the left, with steep sides plunging down to the gorge through which the stream dashes along. Passing through this defile we come out again into open hillside farming country, devoted to dairy pursuits. The station is a short mile from the old town of Moresville GRAND GORGE. P. o., ^^^^^^^ ^^^ x^^'^v^^^ Grand Gorge. On en- DELAWARE CO.. N. Y. ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^'^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ '''^^''^^' " square '' where the several roads come to- 118 THE CATSKILLS. g-ether. The hotel is on the west side of the square. G. L. Shaffer, Proprietor. $1.50 per day. Special rates by the week. J. M. Cronk's is on the south side of the square. Room for thirty-five. $6 to $10. F. V. Riley's is on the road to Prattsville about one mile out from the square. Room for ten. Apply. S. E. Fowler's is next on the same road. Room for twenty-five. $6 to $8. J. H. Chatfield & Son have a house nearly to Prattsville on this road. Room for forty. $7 to SIO. On the road to Stamford about a mile away is O. B. Simonson's. Room for twenty-five. $7 to $8. E. De Silva is on a branch road to the left about a mile beyond Simonson's. This road leads over the mountain to Hobart and also to Roxbury, but it is not usually in g-ood condition. Room for thirty. Apply. Mrs. T. H. Dent's is up in a hollow toward the south, about a mile away from the square. Room for ten. Apply. The villag-e of Prattsville is five miles southeast of Grand Gorgfe, p„ . — from the station, — ^just over the county line. GREENE CO N Y ''^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^ restful peace about it which is most g-rateful to the weary worker. A reg-ular stag-e runs summer and winter to Grand Gorg-e station, but several of the houses have their own conveyances for g"uests. The scenery along" the way is entertaining" in its variety and pe- culiar features even when viewed from the stage. The Schoharie Creek is in sig"ht the last two miles of the drive ; here a wide and placid stretch of open water with g-rassy banks and overhang"ing" trees, contrasting" powerfully with the tumultuous roar of the cata- ract at Devaseg"o Falls just below. , We cross the fine iron bridge over the Schoharie upon entering- the village. Down the creek on the village side goes the road to Devasego Falls and Manorkill Falls, and on to Gilboa. The Devasego House is at the Falls about a mile and a half be- low the bridge. Room for forty. $7 and $8. The falls are very fine, horseshoe in form and about fifty feet high. Safe stairs have been built so that one may climb from one outlook to another, and g"o down into the gorge below. It is a place of great interest and visited by hundreds from every direction, who come in stage loads and picnic in the extensive grounds of the House. The Manorkill Falls are about two miles below, on the Manor- kill which comes tumbling down into the Schoharie over a broken ledge of over three hundred feet. The bridge carrying the road crosses the Kill about half way up the falls giving a near view of FEKRIS'S HANDBOOK. 119 the upper part. For the lower part one must g-o down to the rocks below, which can be reached easily by a road just below the bridge. On the way to these falls one will notice the peculiar conical sand hills about half a mile before reaching- the bridg-e. There is a cluster of these, some larg-e and others smaller, resembling- im- mense ant hills. They stand in a curve of the hig-h ledg-e over which the Manorkill falls and sug-g-est a mig-hty windstorm which may have eddied about when the the sand was dry and heaped it up. Now they are covered with g-rass and native shrubbery. Returning- now to the bridg-e where we entered Prattsville we take the road into the villag-e. The Fowler House is close at hand on the left. $2 a day ; $7 to $10 by the week. Accommodations for seventy. In front of this house is a larg^e and ancient elm covering- about 10,000 square feet with its heav;y shade. Some branches are so long- and heavy that they have to be propped up. Mrs. George Sach's is a few rods further on the same side, next to the Reformed Church. Room for seventy-live (in three houses). Apply. Passing- on a little way we come to several houses close tog-ether in the heart of the villag-e. Mrs. W. Randolph takes fifteen. Apply. J. H. Gibson, opposite, takes twenty. Apply. Mrs, C. K. Bush takes fifteen. Apply. Mrs. Thos. B. Myers has room for fifteen. Apply. A little further on we come to the post-ofiice in the front of the building- occupied by the villag-e newspaper. The Prattsville News, M. G. Marsh, editor and Proprietor, and the Postmaster also. The Prattsville House, D. Miller, Proprietor, is nearly opposite the post-office. $2 a day. Special rates by the week or month. A. Lutz's is just above the post-office. Room for fifteen. Apply. C. K. Benham takes fifteen. Apply. W. X. Graham has room for fifty. $8 to $10. W. J. McWilliams takes thirty. $7 to $10. D, S. Fowler, just above the Methodist Church, takes ten. Apply. James Richtmyer's is opposite the Episcopal Church. Room for sixty. $7 upward. A. Newcombe's is out on the Windham Road half a mile. Room for twenty-five. Apply. O. G. Beckwith's Glenwood House is nearly half way to Lexing-- ton at the end of the great cliff along the creek. Room for twenty. Apply. H. A. Wilbur's is up on the hill about four miles away. Room for fifteen. Apply. 120 THE CATSKILLS. W. C. Maben's is five miles distant. Room for fifteen. Apply. Pratt's Rocks constitute one of the curiosities of Prattsville. They are perhaps half a mile from the villag-e toward Lexington. A hig-h cliflF comes out boldly on the left, and on the face of it are sculptured in alto I'elievo several busts and designs, at the instance of Col. Pratt who had a large tannery here many years ago The drives about Prattsville are very delightful, the roads ex- cellent and the scenery of a highly interesting character. GILBOA P O Gilboa is reached by another stage line SCHOHARIE CO N Y ^^om Grand Gorge. The road is short, — only four miles, — but extremely rough and hilly, passing over out-cropping ledges and rocks. The country is fair to look upon, and near Gilboa becomes wilder. The Schoharie is encountered just before entering the village and crossed by a pretty iron bowstring bridge. This style of bridge is common in the Cats- kills and being light and graceful is always an addition to the lands- cape. Two hundred yards below the bridge there is a fine falls, thirty feet high, across the entire width of the stream. Crossing the bridge into the town we find the Gilboa House, Chas. Tuttle, Proprietor. $2 a day. $7 to $10 by the week. Charles Zelie's is a few steps above the post-office. Room for fifteen. Apply. Daniel Darling takes fifteen. Apply. E. E. Howe takes twenty. Apply. George A. Hartwell takes twelve. Apply. L. S. and C. O'Brien have a house in the village, also a farm a few miles out. They can accommodate twenty-five. Apply. Solomon Sellick's is at the upper end of the village. Room for ten. Apply. Albert Clark's is at Manorkill Falls, about half a mile on the road to Prattsville. D. W. Southard's is up on the hills a mile from the village. Room for twenty. Apply. N. C. Wyckoff's is near Southard's. Room for thirty. Apply. O. Cain's is on the Grand Gorge road about a mile and a half from Gilboa post-office. Room for thirty. Apply. Taking the road up the Manorkill valley we shall find some vil- lages with houses open to summer guests. At West Conesville post-office, three miles from Gilboa, Mrs. Mary E. Myers has room for twelve. $5. Three miles distant is Conesville post-office, and here Geo. H. Bloodgood has room for ten. $5. Manorkill post-office is two miles further and here are two houses. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 121 S. N. Hubbard takes twenty. $5 to $10. , Mrs. M. D. Hammond takes twelve. $5. Following- down the Schoharie Creek about seven miles from Gilboa we reach North "Blenheim Post Office. M. C. Wrig-ht has a house here with room for twenty. Apply. Taking- the road up the Plattenkill valley about seven miles we find D. M. Leonard's at Broome Centre P. O. Room for forty. $6 to $8. A little more than a mile east of Broome Centre is Mackey's P. O. Here is W. M. Sellick's house with room for twelve. $5. From Grand Gorg-e the railroad curves sharply toward the west and soon reaches the heig-ht of land in this pass between the west branch of the Delaware River and the Bearkill, which is a tributary of the Schoharie. The elevation reached by the railroad is 1845 feet above tide. Here we stop at the South Gilboa station. SOUTH GILBOA. The villag-e of South Gilboa lies up in the hills about two miles northeast from the station. Near the station is Mayham's Pond, or Lake, as it is now called, a pretty sheet of water covering about twenty acres. B. S. Mayham has a house here with room for twelve. Apply. E. A. -Sowles's is a mile from the station. Room for ten. $6 and $7. Stephen Conrow's is half a mile farther. Room for ten. $8. H. L. Stevens's is close by Conrow's. Room *for ten. $6. D. Mayham's is half a mile farther. Room for ten. Apply. CHAPTER XXIX. STAMFORD ; JEFFERSON, DAVENPORT, HARPERSFIFLD, ETC. WITHOUT transcendant natural advantages, Stamford has achieved eminence as a summer resort through rightly di- rected enterprise and well developed push. It is a villag-e of moderate dimensions, built upon a hillside, a near-by lake on the one side, and a not very high mountain on the other. It has "ele- vation," being- 18U0 feet above the sea-level. With this "outfit" 122 THE CATSKILLS. the g-ood people of Stamford, with Dr. Churchill in the van, have proceeded to create a cabinet-finished town whose very breath is of tasteful eleg-ance. The building-s are of handsome desig-ns. and " neat as wax " with frequent painting- and staining ; and they stand well back from the street lines with the smoothest of velvety lawns about them, gay with many flowers. Electric lamps light the walks at nig-ht, and a well-ordered waterworks brings the best of water from mountain springs into the houses. Underg-round a scientific system of sewerag-e removes the waste products of civilized life. Five churches, of as many different denominations, uphold the distinctive differences of the faiths of our fathers in lines Roman THh BUSINESS CtNTRE OF STAMEORD. 1 he Delaware House jdu the extreme right. The cupola of the Hamilton House above the trees in the distance. Ceitholic, Episcopal, Baptist, Methodist Episcopal and Presbyterian. The watchful eye of the American Eagle keeps tab upon the National Bank ; the Public Library holds aloft the mellow-rayed lamp of the classics in one hand and the vivid blaze of modern literature in the other ; the Union Free School and Seminary radiates throughout the surrounding country the intelligence and wisdom of the end of the century. What more could one ask ? And yet the half has not been told, — cannot be. And if our keener-eyed friends, the philoso- phers, are to be believed as to their declaration that a place is not a location but a " condition of thought," we have still to reckon with the mental atmosphere of Stamford ; — its finest, subtlest influence to take into account, and this is not to be wantonly attempted with a pen none too familiar with its life. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 123 Besides its settled inhabitants Stamford has a large summer con- tingent of cottage owners whose pretty houses are scattered all about the town nucleus. Some of these are models in the line of summer country-seats ; all give evidence of refinement and comfort. There are many boarding-houses and hotels in Stamford with an aggregate capacity of twelve hundred guests. D. C. Hoagland's is nearest the station, but a few rods down the track toward Hobart. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Approaching the heart of the town from the station we come to ...^^r,r. r, « thc Hamiltou House on the corner of Main STAMFORD P. O., o. ^ t^ m n j • ^i, • ^ a DELAWARE CO.. N. Y- ^^- ^- ^^ Tallmadge IS the proprietor and there are accommodations for one hundred. $2 to $3 per day. $8 to $20 per week. Turning up Main St., northward, — to the left, — the next house is Churchill Hall, three large buildings connected by covered corri- dors. These are known as East Hall, West Hall and Central Hall. Together they accommodate three hundred guests. In the rear of Central Hall on one corner is a large round tower with conical roof and a balcony at the top commanding a fine view in all direc- tions. $3.50 per day. $12 to $20 per week. Dr. S. E. Churchill, Proprietor. Opposite Churchill Hall is the post-office and next to it is the house of Mrs. Lyman Goodenough. Room for twenty. $10 to $12. Next to Mrs. Goodenough's on the side street is C. C. Canfield's cottage. Room for thirty-five. $7 to $10 Next to Canfield's is Benj. McKillip's Mountain View House. Room for sixty. Apply. E. G. Covel's "Ingleside" is next. Room for thirty-five. $8 to $15. Simpson terrace is at the top of this hill,— Seminary Hill,— Mrs. R. C. Simpson, Proprietress. Room for seventy-five. Apply. Returning now to the post-office we find Greycourt Inn across the street next to Churchill Hall. S. I. Brown is the proprietor and accommodates seventy-five. $2.50 per day. $10 upward per week. Going over the hill and down toward the west end of the town we come to Harpers St. leading off to the left. H. C. Lawrence's is out this way near the Catholic Church. Room for twenty-five. $7 to $10. G. H. Bancroft's is a short distance beyond. Room for seventy- five. Apply. Returning to Main st. we keep on a few rods to Mrs. H. S. Pres- ton's pretty " Westholm." Room for forty. $8 to $15. The New Grant House is a few rods farther and across the street. Room for one hundred. $12 to $25. 124 THE CATSKILLS. Farther on almost to the top of the rise of the hill is Wm. D. Atchison's. Room for forty. $8 to $10. Following- on into Lake st., about half a mile away is A. C. Van Dyke's " Granthurst " with room for fifty. Apply. A mile further at the Lake (Utsayantho) is Mrs. H. Stanley's. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Hug-h Govern's " Cedarhurst " shelters twenty. $7. Returning- to the corner at the Hamilton House and g-oing- on eastward, passings the block of stores we reach Dr. H. P. Hubbell's. Room for twelve. Apply. The Delaware House is on the next corner. F. M. Ting-ley is the proprietor. Rates $2 to $3 per day. $8 to $14 per week. THE "west END" OF STAMFORD. Westholm on the right. New Grant House in the distance at the extreme left. At the next corner on the rig-ht, the road leading- down the east side of the river to Hobart turns off. On this road is G. W. Ken- dall's new house, with accommodations for sixty. Apply. On this road also is Mrs. G. H. Leonard's. Room for sixteen. $6 and $7. And further on, about a mile from the station is John Fuller's. Room for thirty. Apply. Returning- to the corner we g^o farther eastward one block to E. E. Van Dyke's "Greenhurst." Room for twenty. $7 to $10. Farther on is A. W. Parsons. Room for ten. Apply. A. L. Churchill's "Cold Spring- House" is next, half a mile from the station. Room here for seventy-five. $7 to $10.. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 125 J. W. Maynard's is next. Room for thirty. Apply. A. G. McLean's is still farther out. Room for ten. Apply. A short distance further on this road, which leads to Grand Gorg-e, is a toll-g-ate which seems wholly out of place in the vicinity of such a modern villag-e as Stamford. It is a little surprising- that it has been permitted to remain there so long-, a relic of the Middle Ag-es. Mrs. S. L. Cotton's is on the hill back of the Seminary. Room for twelve. Apply. Beside these houses there are about thirty-five others accommo- dating from ten to twenty in the villag-e and at varying- distances outside. rA brief mention is made of them here and their exact loca- tion is best learned by an inquiry at the station. Geo. Willert has room for ten. Apply. Banks Cornell takes fifteen. Apply. Mrs. Stephen Mabey takes ten. Apply. S. T. Wheeler has room for twenty-five. Apply. A. J. Greg-ory has room for eight. Apply, C. A. Crowell takes ten. Apply. Mrs. V. Z. Wyckoff has room for ten. $7 to $10. John D. Minor takes twelve. Apply. G. C. Harleff has room for twenty-five. Apply. D. P. McLaury takes twelve. $5 to $7. Lucius H. Hinman has room for twenty. Apply. Most of the above-mentioned houses are in the town not over half a mile from the station. Those about one mile away are in this list: A. F. Judson has room for twenty. Apply. John Chichester has room for ten. Apply. Daniel Craft takes thirty. $7 and $8. H. C. Cook takes ten. $7. Geo. H. Ruff takes twenty. $7. Jno. W. Stewart has room for fifteen. Apply. Geo. A. Bog-gs has room for twenty. $6 to $8. Mrs. E. Wheeler (Rosemont ) takes twenty. $10 to $15. From two to three miles distant from the railroad station are these : Wm. W. Simons takes fifteen. Apply. D. B. Hillis has room for twenty. Apply. R. V. Powell has room for ten. Apply. Frank Warner has room for fifteen. Apply. S. M. Van Loan takes twelve. $6. M. B. Govern takes twenty. $6. Mrs. Fred Grant has room for twelve. $6. 126 THE CATSKILI.S. A. S. Grant has room for fifteen. Apply. I. C. Greg-ory takes fifteen. Apply. E. G. Brockway takes twenty. Apply. While these lists do not exhaust the possible accommodations the writer believes that they cover accurately the principal houses. If any house has been omitted it has not been throug'h lack of care- ful inquiry and subsequent investig-ation. Special mention should be made of the Tower House on the summit of Mt. Utsayantho south of the villag-e. At this house per- sons wishing- to remain over night to witness the sunrise, are ac- commodated. The views from this point, 3365 feet above tide water are always fine and it is a popular place of resort for visitors who may enjoy the g-rand outlook without the labor of a mountain climb, for a well-kept road winds all the way up to the top. An observa- tory, — the "tower," — fifty feet high, reaches up above the tree-tops and gives an unobstructed view in all directions and on the top board of the protecting railing the line of sight to each prominent moun- tain-peak is marked, with notes as to its height and distance. It is said that the view from here on a clear day covers over ten thousand square miles, embracing parts of three states. The roads are excellent all about Stamford and driving is a favorite pastime. The bicyclist will find his wheel available for continual and enjoyable use. Stamford is the railroad station for several other resorts. Two regular lines of stages leave here daily, excepting Sunday, through- out the year ; one to Oneonta, 27 miles, and the other to Richmond- ville, 18 miles. The first goes out Harpers street westward, through Harpersfield at a distance of four miles. Here there are a few houses open to boarders. HARPERSFIELD P. O., ^' J^^elyn keeps the Globe Hotel. Ac- DELAWARE CO N Y ' ^ommodations for fifty. $1.50 per day. $8 per week. C. W. Phijicle tgikes ten. $5 and $6. Abram Yonson takes twelve. $6. Three miles north of here is North Harpersfield P. O., where Mrs. H. O. Nichols has a house with room for ten. $6 to $8. Three miles beyond Harpersfield the stage passes through North Kortright and seven miles farther on reaches Davenport, four- teen miles from Stamford. Here are several houses, and within a short walk is Smith's Lake, a considerable body of water affording DAVENPORT P. O., pleasures of boating and swimming. DELAWARE CO. N. Y. ^* ^' Sheldon has room for fifteen. Apply. Jno. K. Sexsmith has room for twenty. Apply. FEKKIS S HANrxBOOK. 127 ENTERING PRATTSVILLE. Fowler House on the left. Mrs. Sach's house next above. See page ii8. James Van Buren has room for fifteen. Apply. P. M. Hummell, two miles from town, has room for twelve. $6. Fergusonville P. O. is two miles from Davenport and here are two houses. Mrs. J. H. Wilber takes eight. $6. S. C. Lockwood takes ten. Apply. Four miles beyond Davenport is Davenport Centre P. O. and here J. M. Hebbard and R. L. Hebbard each take fifteen. Apply for terms. Nine miles more remain to complete the journey to Oneonta. At Davenport one may take a train for Cooperstown a-nd Otseg-o Lake, distant twenty-five miles. p Q The other stage line runs north from SCHOHARIE CO., N. Y. Stamford, passing through Jefferson at seven miles. Here are several houses taking summer boarders. Isaac M. Hubbard's Pleasant Valley House takes thirty-five. $6 and S8. H. M. Clark takes twenty. $6. David Y. Reed takes twenty-five. $6. M. S. Wilcox takes ten. $6. Will Hubbard takes thirty. $6. Miss B. Tyler has rooms for twelve. $6. W. D. Gault has rooms for ten. Apply. B. E. Davenport has rooms for fifteen. Apply. 128 THE CATSKILLS. S. E. Coon has room for twenty. $6 to $8. Prom Jefferson the sta^e g"oes on seven miles farther to Summit and four miles still farther to Richmondville. Other resorts are reached by private conveyance from the Stam- ford station. There are houses with accommodations for boarders at South Jefferson five miles distant. C. A. Goodenoug-h takes twenty. $5 to $6. Geo. W. Franklin takes ten. $5. Also others at Ruth, eig-ht miles ; East Davenport, ten miles ; Ferg-usonville, ten miles, Warnerville, fifteen miles. A line to the postmaster at any of these post-offices will bring the names of per- sons desiring- guests. CHAPTER XXX. HOBART. HOBART is but four miles from Stamford down the valley of the Delaware River, west Branch. It is a pleasant ride by rail» — much more so by either of the two roads which go down, VIEW OF STAMFORD LOOKING BACK FROM THE WESTERLY ROAD TO HOBART. The Tower of Churchill Hall left of centre. Simpson Terrace in the centre over roof of Churchill Hall Mrs. Cotton's on the hill at the left. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 129 HOBART FROM THE STAMFORD ROAD. one on each side of the stream. The view of Stamford looking- back from the westerly road is very striking-, the tower of Churchill Hall being- a marked feature. Hobart is an old town with a history, but it has also a determi- nation not to be left as a monument of by-g^one days, and g-oes on with the procession of to-day, with such courtly demand for a seat in the band wag-on as may not cast a shadow upon the dignity of the honorable past. Which explains in part the constantly increas- ing- throng- of summer visitors within its borders. The Barrett House, Wm. Barrett, Proprietor, is up in the main street, to the rig-ht as we enter it from the station. $1.50 per day. Special rates by the week. Turning- to the left we g-o down the street and up the little hill on the road running- toward Almeda along- that side of the river. A. J. Van Dyke's is the first house. Room for twelve. Apply. Jno. C. McMurdy's is next. Room for twenty. Apply. O. B. Foote's is the first farm house beyond the villag-e, half a mile from the station. Room for twelve. Apply. Returning- now to the bridg-e we cross into the other section of the town. The road running- directly from the bridg-e g-oes to Stam- ford and on it are several houses. F. A. Lamb's is close by, on the left. Room for twenty. Apply. J. S. Hanford's is opposite the church. Room for twenty-five. $7 to $10. C. W. Ives's is next beyond the church. Room for twenty-five. $6 to $8. 130 THE CATSKILLS. Mrs. Faulkner's is just back of Ives's. Room for ten. Apply. Near by is Jas. Reynolds. Room for fifteen. A quarter of a mile farther out is Mrs. Alice Gilmore's. Room for ten. Apply. R. V. Powell's is nearly half way to Stamford on this road. Room for ten. Apply. D. B. Grant's is next to Powell's. Room for fifteen. Apply. Returning" now to the bridg^e we may take the road to Almeda on this side of the stream, — the southern. John H. Hoag-land's is the first. Room for ten. Apply. E. Barlow's is nearly a quarter of a mile further, — half a mile from the station. Room for twenty. $6 to $8. T. M. Grif&n's is just beyond the bridg-e on this road. Room for twenty. $6 to $7. Geo. M. Moore takes twelve. Apply. W. H. McClelland's is over a mile from the station. Room for ten. Apply. On the Gilmore road is Homer Butler's, two miles from the sta- tion. Room for twelve. S5. The roads about Hobart are excellent and the scenery very pretty. The attractions of Stamford are within easy reach, by rail or team, and many people find a most enjoyable rest in this old villag^e. CHAPTER XXXI. SOUTH KORTRIGHT ( ALMEDA P. O.) AND BLOOMVILLE. SOUTH KORTRIGHT is what the railroad people call out when the station at Almeda is reached. It is a small villag-e with a larg-e creamery where 12,000 quarts of milk are handled daily. This means that about 1200 cows are eng-ag-ed in steady work in this vicinity. There are some fine building-s, a United Presbyterian Church and two handsome estates. One of them is the summer residence of Mr. Jas. McLean of the firm of Phelps, Dodg-e & Co. Across the river S. W. Andrews, Esq., is laying- out an elegant place about a new and handsome mansion. Over on that side of the river are two houses on the road to Bloomville. W. S. Nesbitt takes twenty. $5 and $6. Mrs. J. MacDonald takes ten. Apply. On the road to Hobart on the south side of the river is D. C. Sharpe's, a short mile from the station. Room for fifteen. $7 to $10. Taking- the road up the hill opposite Sharp's we find G. H. Pol- FERKIS S HANDBOOK. 131 ALMEDA FROM D. C. SHARPE'S. ley's distant a mile and a half from this corner. Room for fifteen. $5 to $8. A. T. Ryer's is on a cross road. Room for fifteen. Apply. The drive " around the block" is a favorite one from Almeda, — that is g"oing- up one side of the river to Hobart and down on the other. The scenery is that of a thrifty farming- section, good build- ing's with pleasant grounds, g-reat herds of good cattle and well kept farms. The extraordinary size of the barns is quite noticeable. The roads are shaded by larg-e overhanging trees making- the ride delightful even upon a hot day. BLOOMVILLK, DELHI AND BOVINA. BLOOMVILLE P DELAWARE CO O., N. Y. Bloomville is the terminus of the Ulster and Delaware R. R. at present, but it seems quite probable that it will be extended to Delhi, the county seat, within the near future. It is a pleasant vil- lage three times as larg-e as Almeda, but not yet much of a summer resort. G. A. Evans's is close by the station. Room for ten. $5. M. F. Allison's has room for five. Apply. D. H. Kimball has room for ten. Apply. J. D. Lawrence's is a quarter of a mile away. Room for ten. Apply. J. E. Powell takes four. Apply. 132 THE CATSKILLS. Wm. Shaw has a farm three miles out. He takes ten. S6. A stag-e runs daily (excepting- Sunday) DELHI P. O., ^ T^ 11.- • t,^ -1 ^. ^, to Delhi eigfht miles away. DELAWARE CO., N. Y. "^ ^ ^^ ^ .^ , , " i, ,.1, _ F. H. Grifl&s has a larg-e house with room for one hundred. Apply. John Hudson takes forty. Apply. Robert Young- takes ten. Apply. John McMurray takes ten. Apply. Daniel W. Shaw takes ten. $8. H. P. Hunt takes five. Apply. Miss M. A. McLaury takes five. Apply. George W. Grant takes six. Apply. BOVINA CENTRE P. C, ^^«^^f ^'^^^ ^^^^™^ '° ^^'^^^ ^^"■ DELAWARE CO.. N. Y. ^'^ ^''^ ^^^^^ ^^^^- ^^'^ ^'^ ^ ^^^ ^'''''^' taking- boarders. Mrs. C. Loughran takes ten. $5 and $6. N. Dickson takes twelve. Apply. Elmer Hastings takes five. Apply. ):5:$;$$i$€t CHAPTEP XXXII. THE STONY CLOVE. Chichester's, lanesville, edgewood, kaaterskill junction. THE Stony Clove is a deep notch between Hunter Mountain on the West and Plateau Mountain on the east. It is the middle of three notable passes, — notable because of their g-reat depth as compared with the heig-ht of the mountains on either side. The g-ap to the west of Stony Clove, — between. Hunter Mountain and Big- Westkill Mountain is Diamond Notch; the g-ap east of it. Mink Hollow, — between Plateau Mountain and Mink Mountain. There are several others through this same rang-e. Deep Notch, or Echo Notch, between Bushnellville- and Westkill being the principal one. How they were caused is not apparent. The comet theory of Igna- tius Donnelly in " Ragnarok " presents itself for consideration, but it seems scarcely possible to get a satisfactory mental grasp of the conditions existing in order to test the theory. From what one may see in the Clove, appearances indicate a tremendous lifting force from below, which not only raised the mountains higher, but split FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 133 THE LAKE IN THE STONY CLOVE, LOOKING NORTH-TOWARD HUNTER. The railroad runs on the bench up on the right. off Plateau Mountain from Hunter Mountain, leaving the sharp bot- tom of the cleft to be partially filled with g-reat chunks and chips loosened at the time, or by the action of frost and water afterward. This explanation is sugg-ested by the "matching-" of the ledg-es on both sides of the clove. They are exrctly opposite and of the same extent, in altitude as well as long-itudinally. Whatever the cause the result is most interesting- and without counterpart in the reg-ion. At the " heig-ht of land " in the notch the elevation is 2,071 feet above the sea-level, Hunter Mountain being- 4,052 feet; and Plateau Mountain only 200 feet lower. With nearly STONE IN THE STONY CLOVE. 134 THE CATSKILLS. CHICHESTER'S P. O., ULSTER CO., N. Y. all of this difference in elevation in view from the clove the effect may be imag-ined, but not described. The Stony Clove and Catskill Mountain R. R. makes use of this notch for a short cut into the Tannersville and Hunter Reg-ion, start- ing- at Phoenicia. This road is built on the narrow g-aug-e, so passen- g-ers transfer at Phoenicia to the Stony Clove trains, which stand just across the platform. The track first crosses the Esopus Creek on a curving- bridg-e, dashes across the main street of the town and close beside the Tremper House, climbing- up with every rod of advance. For a mile or so the country is rug-g-ed and not much to see. Then the Ox Clove, a beautiful hollow, opens on the left in delig-htful con- cave lines The train halts and "Chiches- ter's" is called. From the station the road leads down the hill to the old Stony Clove stag-e road which is probably in better condition to-day than when passeng-ers were all taken throug-h in wag-ons and stag-es. A few rods to the left on this road from the junction is William Almy's Public House. Room for twenty. $1.50 per day. P. Chichester's is across the bridg-e, to the rig-ht as you reach the stag-e road, — at the foot of Ox Clove. Room for twelve. Apply. Mrs. J. A. Flynn's is a mile and a half up the Stony Clove to- ward Lanesville, about midway between the two places. Room for twelve. $5 and $6. Just beyond Chichester's, — a villag-e wholly devoted to the run- ning of the larg-e chair and cabinet work factory, — on the rig-ht comes in the Warner Kill from Warner Hollow. This hollow is not well seen from the R. R. but is very beautiful from the highway. Timothy- berg and Karlberg are seen in reverse from their positions from the De Vail Hol- low at Mount Pleas- ant. The Warner Kill is a trout-stream of deserved reputa- tion. At the foot of this hollow the railroad crosses the Stony Clove stream and comes over to the westerly side of the clove. For half a mile it runs side l>y side with the highway and then the brook comes over on that NEAR CHICHESTER'S. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 13S LANESVILLE P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y side too, to join them, and crowds so close that the railroad jumps it and goes back to stay on the other side. From here the valley widens a little and there is quite a little rich level bottom land which is till- able, so there is a larg^er settlement here. This station is Lanesville, and there are several houses here open to summer boarders. John Jansen's is close by the station, a few steps down the track. Room for twenty- five. Apply. Taking- the road from the station down to the stage road we may go first to the left, — down the clove. Crossing the bridge the first house is F. A, Barber's about a quarter of a mile from the station. Room for twenty-five. $7 to $S. The Methodist Church is next and just below that is Chas. R. Lane's. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Harry D. Lane's is next. Room for thirty. $S to $10. Returning to the bridge and the road from the station we turn to the right. A few rods away the Diamond Notch road turns off to to the left. Up this road a short dis- tance is Frank Har- rington's. Room for twenty. Apply. The Diamond Notch House, Asa Crosby, Proprietor, is on the main road a few rods further, — about half a mile from the station; and here also is the post-office and a store. $1.50 per day. $6 to $8 per week. David Crosby's twenty-five. Apply. Mrs. Jane Smith's ' ' Sunnyside " is next. Room for twelve Apply. Back of these two houses rises a sharp peak in the angle between the Diamond Notch and the Stony Clove. It is Steeple Mountain; and the massive rounded crest next above it is Burnt Knob, which shows still the old fire scars in its rugged form. From near this. point the view down the clove is grand. But Stony Clove is zig-zag from here on and we now make a turn almost at right angles, as we go puffing up the hill toward Edgewood. Beyond Burnt Knob is an- THE DIAMOND NOTCH FROM LANESVILLE. Echo Cottage " is next, on the left. Room for 136 THE CATSKILLS. EDGEWOOD P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y other sharp and jag-g-ed peak, — the South Sentinel — standing- on the south side of a narrow and deep Hollow. Across from it is the North Sentinel, large and less rag-ged in form. This view impresses one with the g-randeur of the wilderness which here shows no mark of the hand of man and bears many eloquent tracing's of desolation wroug-ht by the elements. Just before reaching- Edgewood station we look down upon the little village from our perch up on the mountain side. Prominent among- the others is "Rock Acre," the moun- tain home of F. M. Blake of Elizabeth, N. J., a little wild farm with g-ood building's and a handsome bit of landscape g-arden just around the house. The train stops at the farther end of the settlement, at the en- trance of the g-reat cleft which makes the pass through the mountain rang-e. We g-o down the hill into the valley and then turn and go back to the villag-e. John Martin's is close at hand, just over the bridg-e. Room for twenty. Apply. N. A. Peet's is next, just below the Blake property. Room for fifteen. Apply. A.J.Connelly's " Edgewood House " is next. Accommodations for thirty. $6 to $8. Wm. Tracey's is opposite the church. Room for twenty. Apply. Chas. K. Neal's is next below Tracey's. Room for fifteen. Apply. "The Lotowana," J. V. Neal and Sons, is at the end of the vil- lag-e, about three-quarters of a mile from the station. Room for twenty. $6 to $8. All about Edg^ewood are serious evidences of the g-reat fire which Tag-ed here in May of last year. The Edg-ewood Mountain is badly burned over. Platean Mountain has scarce- ly a tree left upon its summit. Hunter Mountain and the Sentinels are marked in a most regrettable way. At one time during- the fire it was thoug-ht the viUag-e would have to burn too, and one house was actually in flames from flying- sparks NEAR EDGEWOOD LOOKING scuTH. ''''^'^^ ^he heat and FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 137 smoke made it almost impossible for any one to rema in in the town. Beyond Edg-ewood we traverse a pretty little open farm and then climb up into the pass. The way grows narrower, the old stage road coming- closer and closer, until it crosses the railroad at the heig-ht of land. Just before this meeting- of the ways we g-et a glimpse of the pretty lakelet lying- down below us to the left. Across the lake in the crevices of Hunter Mountain, ice may be found all summer. The air in the pass has a chill which is so suddenly encountered in the train as to be objectionable. Coming- into it slowly by the wag-on road it is most refreshing- on a hot day. As the train g-oes over the divide the view back is very charm- ing^, and the most beautiful of all the Stone Clove scenery, while very wild and pictur- sque. The half- tone but faintly sug-g^ests it. It is impossible to do it justice in a small picture. The narrow pass is quickly traver- sed and we come out into the Hun- ter country, as different as one can well imag-ine from the other side. Farms lie all about, spread up on the hills, and the wilderness, while still with us, is tamed by the enterprise of the ag^riculturist. A run of a mile or two bring-s us to the little station in the woods, Kaaterskill Junction. Here the Kaaterskill R. R. makes connection with the Stony Clove Railroad, taking- passeng-ers for Tannersville, Haines's Corners, the Laurel House and the Kaaterskill Hotel. There are several houses near by, all in the villag-e of Hunter, the post-office being- nearly three miles from here. It is about the same distance to Tannersville post-office, but the road lying- between the two places is built up, principally with boarding houses, for the whole six miles; with a good sprinkling- of private cottag-es. J. Rouff's is nearest, but a few rods from the station taking- the road to the left passing- under the railroad. Room for eig-hteen. Apply. IN THE STONY CLOVE NOTCH, LOOKING BACK TOWARD THE LAKE. HUNTER P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y 138 THE CATSKILLS. Z. Ingraham's is on the Hunter-Tannersville road directly oppo- site the road leading from the station. Room for sixteen. Apply. Sidney Haines's is on the same road up on the hill. Turn to the left, — toward Hunter — at Ing-raham's. Room for twelve. Apply. John J. Haines's is toward the rig-ht, — toward Tannersville — about a mile from the station. Room for twenty. $8 and $10. There are several other houses near by in both directions, which are noted under heading's of Hunter and Tannersville respectively. CHAPTER XXXIII. THE GREAT CATSKILL PLATEAU. THE EASTERN CATSKILLS. THE Catskill Mountain g-roup is somewhat circular in form. Hig-h mountain peaks bound it on the south, the east and the north, rising abruptly from the lowlands. When the reg-ion about Hunter is reached, as described in the preceding- chapter, we recog-nize a different make-up from anything- seen along- the line of the Ulster and Delaware R. R., unless it be in the neig-hborhood of Stamford, and then only on a small scale. These are the Eastern Catskills. At Hunter we are in an elevated valley 1600 feet above the sea- level, and the streams running- west. Eastward" is the Tannersville country, 260 feet hig-her, and still farther eastward is the Catskill Mountain House 2150 feet above tide. This edg-e of the uplift then is the hig-her, and as we take this point for a g-eneral view, we find two g-reat upland valleys, the Hunter Valley, and the Windham Val- ley, (or basin,) lying- north of it, the latter being- a little lower than the former. The hig-h rang-e of mountains beg-inning- with Black Head on the east, and continuing with Black Dome and Thomas Cole, and so on down through Tower Mountain, separates these two val- leys. The Hunter Valley is narrower than the other, and is subdi- vided by the East Kill Mountain range which cuts off the East Jewett and Jewett Heights valley from it on the north. This latter valley joins the other near Lexington. The Windham valley is rather a broad oval basin, some six miles across and fifteen miles long, heading at East Windham at the foot of Windham High Peak. Hensonville is near the upper end of FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 139 Ihis basin and Big- Hollow still farther up, Elm Ridg-e separating- the latter from the main Windham basin. Prattsville lies at the lower or westerly end, 1160 feet above tide. East Windham, at the head of it, is 1880 feet high. There is a narrow connection between these two valleys in the road from Lexington, (1320 feet elevation,) to Prattsville, following the Schoharie Creek. If these facts are borne in mind it will make the comprehending of the location of these upland villages much easier. Generally speaking we may regard the whole top of the uplift as a g-reat plateau about 1200 to 1800 feet above the level of the sea, crossed by mountain ranges running from east to west, and the eastern edge about six hundred feet higher than the western. Hunter is the R. R. centre for this upland region, which will be taken up in detail in the next chapter. The entrance from the lowlands through the Stony Clove has already been described. The other entrances are by way of the Plaaterkill Clove Road from West Saugerties to Tannersville; by the Kaaterskill Clove from Palenville to Haines Corners; by the Otis Elevating Railway from Otis Junction, on the Catskill Mountain Railway, to Otis Summit near the old Mountain House; by the Mountain House stage road; by the East Windham stage road from Cairo; or by the Durham and East Durham stage road; — these entrances are on the east and northeast, risings directly from the lowland country. From the south one may enter from Shandaken by way of the Echo Notch into Lexington at the lower side of the plateau, or from Grand Gorge by way of Pratts- ville and so on up the valley, either to Hunter or Windham, ^having first journeyed to Shandaken and Grand Gorge. Mention should also be made of the Westkill and Spruceton valley, from 1500 to 2000 feet high, a branch of the Hunter plateau opening from Lexington. A chain of very high mountains separates it from the Hunter valley at the upper end, but the outer range of mountains known as the Westkill Chain is the real boundary of the great plateau. For convenience in travelling directions, Westkill and Spruceton were included in the chapter on Shandaken, but belong to the eastern group. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and many others) for sale at prices noted on back cover page. R. FERRIS, Artist Photographer, 140 THE CATSKILLS. CHAPTER XXXIV. HUNTER, HENSONVILLE AND WINDHAM ; UNION SOCIETY AND EAST WINDHAM ;: JEWETT AND LEXINGTON ; EAST JEWETT, BIG HOLLOW, JEWETT HEIGHTS, ASHLAND. UNTER is the present mountain terminus of the Stony Clove and C. M. R. R. With Lexing-ton and Prattsville lower down the valley, and Windham around the corner, it is safe to prophesy that some day the iron horse will find a new bit of his peculiar kind of road before him when he reaches Hunter; and " No. THE "WEST END" OF HUNTER. Post-office at the right behind the elms. The tower of the West End Hotel at the right among the trees, a little way down the street. 3 " will wake new echoes of its mellow cow-bell as it ding--dang-s cheerily around the end of Tower Mountain and into the peaceful shades of Windham. The villag-e of Hunter has a most picturesque location. It lies along the Schoharie Creek on both banks, and spreads up on both hillsides, for the valley lacks breadth. Hunter Mountain, 4052 feet above the sea-level, displays its immense buttresses south of the villag-e, and two of these with peculiarly bold slopes, push out FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 141 toward the north almost into the town and receive the name of the Colonel's Chair from their resemblance to the arms of a hug-e easy chair. There is a g-ood trail up the "Chair" and thence to Hunter Mountain and the views are wonderfully fine, and within such easy reach that no one able to make the ascent should fail to do so. It will not be necsssary to urg^e this upon any one who has once stood upon a mountain top, for the sensation is one which is always soug-ht ag-ain. Your real mountain climber deligfhts to g-o up, and deplores the necessity of leaving- the serene heights to take up ag-ain the thread of humanity's life below. This mountain villag-e will charm any one with a likings for the rural. The main street for most of its length is arched over by great elms which meet overhead. The building's are neat and com- fortable, some of them ornate and handsome, and there is no crowding", — abundant g^rounds for all. The westernmost arm of the Colonel's Chair is peculiarly bold in outline and impressive in mass as it raises itself hig-h above the village and so close as to seem within arm's leng-th. It is the characteristic scenic line at Hunter. But Hunter Mountain, of which the chair is but a spur, is very g-rand, — a fact not readily appreciated unless one climbs up the hills north of the villag-e far enoug-h to g^ain a view of its noble peak. Every one who has seen the famous painting of this mountain by Sanford Gifford will wish to g^et this view, and at twilig^ht as he painted it, — the peak yet g-lowing- with the ling-ering- sunset hues, while the valley be- low is already filling- with the cool shad- ows of evening-, — a masterly rendition of one of Nature's no- blest effects in color. There is a fine view of the villag-e from its eastern end, on the hill back of the H u nt e r Mountain Prospect House. Another fine view may be had from the slopes of the Colonel's Chair, a t the western end. And another noble view of the rang-e from Platter- kill Mountain to Fly Mountain, nearly thirty miles, from the heig-hts back of the West End Hotel. STONY CLOVE TRAIN AT HUNTER STATION. 142 THE CATSKILLS. The railroad is on the south side of the Schoharie and passes HUNTER P O ^^^ villag-e stopping- at its western end. OREFNE CO NY Near the station, within three minutes walk are several houses open to boarders in the sum- mer which can.be pointed out from the station. F. Beach has room for fifteen. Apply. P. H. Conerty has room for twenty-five. Apply. Prank Conerty has room for twenty. Apply. Peter Hummel takes twenty-five. $7 to SIO. Crossing over the bridg-e into the main street we turn to the left io the West End Hotel, with accommodations for one hundred. $2.50 per day. $12 to $18 per week. Taking- the road at the side of the West End Hotel we find D. W. Bullock's house just beyond. Room for fifteen. Apply. L. M. Cole's is next. Room for twenty. $7 to $9. Mrs. C. L. Hig-g-ins is further on. Room for forty. $6 to $8. Turning- the other way at the corner from the station we pass up the street, the post-oflice being- close by on the left. At the first road turning- north (to the left) "Lovers' Lane" by name, we may turn off to C. L. Schermerhorn's Glen Farm House. Room for forty. $7 to $10. Here also is E. C. Fromer's Fernside Cottag-e, with room for thirty. $8 to $12. Across the brook is Geo. Scholderer's. Room for ten. Apply. Tl j'^"^M ^Lr^fc, '' Jjfi^ife -'^^P M f ■ J- WM « V J IN HUNTER, LOOKING WESTWARD. " The Kaatsberg " en the left. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 143 A short distance further, a quarter of a mile from the station, is the Hunter House, M. C. Van Pelt, Proprietor. Accommodations for two hundred and fifty. $2 to $3 per day. $10 to $17 per week. Next above the Hunter House is Mrs. A. Atwater's. Room for fifteen. $7 to $8. Mrs. Abram Wilcox's is next. Room for twelve. Willis Baldwin's is close by. Room for eight. $(> to $8. Mr. Robert Elliott's fine house. The Kaatsberg-, is across the street. The Schoharie Creek runs throug-h the grounds, which are spacious and well cared for, and a bathing house has been erected for the use of guests. Centrally located both as to Hunter and to points of general interest in the Catskills, the Kaatsberg presents special claims as a summer home. Room for one hundred. $2 per day. $8 upward per week. The fine building on the left as we pass on is the Public School of which the residents of Hunter have the best right to be proud. It is one of the best graded schools in the entire region. Mrs. Wm. F. Greene's is just beyond the school. Room for twenty-five. $7 to $8. Wm. A. Douglass's is next, half a mile from the station. Room for thirty. $7 to $10. Mrs. N. Winchell's is next. Room for eighteen. $8. Miss Grace Rundell takes eight. $7 to $10. E. R. Myers takes thirty. $7 to $10. The Central House and cottages are next. Accommodations for one hundred and seventy-five. $2 to $3 per day. $10 to $15 per week. A. P. Reynolds, Proprietor. The "Ripley" is next, L. A. Woodworth, Proprietor. Accom- modations for fifty. $10 to $16. Across the street is A. J. Woodworth's. Room for fifteen. Apply. The Arlington is next on the same (southerly) side of the street. Accommodates seventy-five. $10 to $12. G. W. Shoemaker, Pro- prietor. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and many others) for sale at prices noted on back cover page. R. FERRIS, Artist Photographer. 144 THE CATSKILLS. On the corner of tlie road leading- to the upper bridge is Jas. H. Ford's, .one mile from the station. Room for thirty. $8 to $10. We turn off at this point and cross the bridg^e taking the right hand road at the railroad to the Alpien Cottage. A. A. Barber, Proprietor. Room for thirty-five. Apply. This cottage is also reached by a suspension foot bridge lower down the stream. Taking the left hand road at the railroad crossing we go to M. Graham's, about half a mile from the bridge. Room for twenty. Apply. S. Epstein's Grand View House is next. Room for one hundred. $12 to $16. Returning to the main street at Ford's we go on easterly, — toward Tannersville. The Hotel St. Charles (formerly the Breeze Lawn House) has a bold location on the hillside toward the left, its dark red color har- monizing richly with the bright greens of the higher hills beyond it, a part of the distinct and characteristic "Ford's Hill." J. H. Burtis, Jr., is the proprietor of the St. Charles, and accommodates two hundred and fifty guests. Apply for terms. Next beyond is the Hunter Mountain Prospect House, J. M. Camane, Proprietor. Accommodations for two hundred. $2.50 per day. $10 to $18 per week. The road turning toward the left beyond the grounds of the Prospect House leads to East Jewett and thence to Big Hollow. We shall return to make a flying trip to those places. For the present we go on toward Tannersville. Passing the "Columbia" which is one of those combined bowl- ing-alleys, refreshment saloons and souvenir depots, so common throughout the mountains, we reach next Sylvester Greene's house, " Fairview." Room for twenty-five. $7 to $10. The ,next house is Samuel Brown's. Here is room for twenty, Apply. Charles Quick's comes next. Room for twenty. Apply. Then John F. Hylan's Shady Brook Cottage, beside the brook, which, a few rods below forms the pretty Shady Brook Falls, to the right of the road. Room for twenty. Apply. The other two houses on this road, Sidney T. Haines's and Z. Ingraham's were noticed under Kaaterskill Junction. Their post- office address is Hunter. Beyond Ingraham's the residents go to Tannersville' Jpost-office and their houses will therefore be noticed under that title. Returning now to the East Jewett road let us take a trip over into that town, three miles away. It is quite a climb over the height FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 145 EAST JEWETT P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y. BIG HOLLOW P. O GREENE CO., N. Y of land between Ford's Hill and East Kill Mountain, but the road is g-ood and the scen- ery pleasing-. About half a mile up the rise is the country seat of Mrs. Agnes Tracy of New York City, nearly hidden behind a high stone wall, with a wicket gate and many other interesting featuies bringing strongly to mind some pictures of bits in Old England. As we g-ain the height and beg-in the descent into East Jewett there is a fine view spread before us. Across the deep and wide valley stand Thos. Cole, Black Dome and Black Head Mountains, a superb trio nearly 4000 feet high, clad in forests to their tops. A little further we get a view down the valley of distant mountains with Vinegar Hill and Vly Mountain at Lexington prominent. C. D. Simpkins's is the only house taking boarders in this place and it is two miles up the valley, near the foot of Black Head. Room for twenty-five. $6. Turning down the valley we take the first road leading north for Big Hollow which is three miles further. Here is another divide to be climbed. The view back toward East Jewett is pretty, and the scenery along the road interesting. In some places the road lies upon solid rock almost as smooth and level as a floor, and in the fields at the roadside great ledges push up out of the meadow grass, with some wild- wood shrubbery about them, mak- ing pretty pict- ures. One over- hanging rock at the side of the road makes a natural shelter for two wagons, a harrow and some other farm implements, and room to spare. LOOKING TOWARD HEN80NVILLE FROM THE EAST JEWETT ROAD. As WC gO down Theupper end of the Windham Basin in the middle distance. mto Big Hollow Mt. Richmond at the right in the distance. a Very fine view^ is caught over- looking Hensonville and Windham and the upper portion of the Windham basin. Mt. Pisgah, Mt. Richmond and the other peaks in that range stand in fine outline in the distance. 146 THE CATSKILLS. VILLAGE OF BIG HOLLOW. Big- Hollow is a pretty little villag-e witli a larger proportion of churches than one will find in many a journey. There is a Metho- dist church, a free Methodist church and a Presbyterian church, and all within the limit of a short quarter of a mile, and so far as the village is concerned, that is about one church to each ten houses. Just what is gainec by thus magnifying differences in doc trine which are be coming" every day o less and less impor tance, and whos( manifest destiny ii to disappear entireb as the brotherhoo( of man becomes ; reality and not ; theory, it is mos difficult to imagine One strong church ii which each migh be called upon t( sacrifice some personal peculiar ideas would serve to far greater ad vantage the cause which each is striving to advance. Wm. Crandall's is next to the Methodist church. Room for ten $5 to $7. Geo. W. Powell's is a few rods farther up the street. Room fo ten. $7 to $10. Austin B. Hitchcock's is half a mile out of the village up th hollow. Room for fifteen. $5. Geo. W. McGlashan's is half a mile further. Room for twenty five. Apply. Wm. Crandall, Jr., has room for twelve at "Glenwood." $8. A new road is being vigorously pushed from the head of thi hollow through a low notch at the foot of Black Head and so dowi by an easy grade to Purling. This will shorten the distance to Bi< Hollow by five miles, and to Hensonville and Windham by thre miles, over the present stage road, and in reducing the distance wil also reduce the fare and abolish the toll-gate on the East Windhar road. There is absolutely no reason in maintaining toll-gates on th thoroughfares of the Catskills. The small percentage of the mone paid by summer boarders and tourists, needed to keep the roads i; repair, ought to be cheerfully expended by the public, and the Lep-i« FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 147 > )OKINQ BACK TOWARD HUNTER FROM THE HENSONVILLE ROAD Colonel's Chair Mountain over the nearer telegraph pole ; Plateau Mountain over the farther pole. ature should be invoked to wipe out every such g"ate in this great )leasure reg^ion. Hensonville is but two miles distant from Big- Hollow, but is isually reached by the stag-e road from the lower end of Hunter village. A stag-e runs daily except Sunday to Hen- sonville from Hunter, and so on to Windham, and many teams belonging- to the different houses are out every day during- the sum- mer, to meet the various trains. The stage road g-oes up the hill and over the di- vide to the val- ley of the East K.i\\. Fine views are enjoyed from many points of outlook. Four miles away from Hunter we cross the hig-hway coming- iown from East Jewett to Lexington, and here is a post-of&ce named Beach's Corners and a few boarding- houses. B. F. Barkley at the Summit House has room for fifty. $6 to $8. Romeyn Butts takes twenty. Apply. J. G. Beers has room for fifty. Apply. H. A. Towner has room for ten. Apply. Chas. Frere has room for twelve. Apply. Jewett Heig-hts may be reached from here by driving- four miles iown the valley, but the usual approach is by way of the Lexing-ton road, turninar off up the 'hill when near JEWETT HEIGHTS P. O., ^"'^^' "-"^"^s ^^ ^f -^Dcc^.c/-r^ M V Jewett. The several houses at Jewett jiREENE CO., N. Y. . , , Heig-hts may be mentioned here. Emmons Pond at the Tower Mountain House accommodates linety. $2 per day. $7 to $12 per week. Georg-e H. Chase has room for fifty. $7 to $10. O. T. Bailey has room for forty. $7 to $10. From Beach's Corners we g-o on three miles over the divide md down ag-ain to Hensonville. Many pretty summer cottag-es are BEACH'S CORNERS, 3REENE CO., N. Y. 148 THE CATSKILLS. HENSONVILLE P O scattered along" the road and upon the nearer i-DirirKitr /^/-> ki v ' hillsldes, and thcrc IS abundant Toom fof manv GREENE CO., N. Y. , •' more. One can select a hundred admirable sites without leaving- the conveyance, each with a little brooklet that tells of a cooling- spring- hidden in some mossy nook. Hensonville is a flourishing- town in spite of its proximity to the much larg-er town of Windham. It has an independent life of its own, and its scenery is quite distinct from that of the other, because of the nearness of the hig-h mountains about the Big- Hollow basin. It is a favorite resort with many people who come here year after year. Lafayette Mallory's is the first boarding- house we pass as we enter from the Hunter road, close by the school-house. Room for twenty. $6 and $7. E. Barker also takes twenty. $6 to $8. C. E. Bloodg-ood has room for twenty-five. $7. L. W. Bloodg-ood takes thirty-five. $6 to $8. This bring-s us to the main street at the corner by the post-office. Turning- to the rig-ht, a little jog- on the left bring-s us to the road to Union Society, and so on to East Windham. O. S. Griffin's is on this corner. Room for thirty-five. Apply. Going- on up the main street and crossing- the bridge over the Kill there are two houses. Opposite the bridg-e is A. G. Holcomb's Central House. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Georg-e C. Seeley's is down the stream a few rods. Room for sixty. $7 to $10. The Kill is dammed here and makes a pretty pond for rowing-, overhung- by larg-e trees on both banks. Returning- now to the post-oflfice we g-o westward on the main street, — toward Windham. Linus Peck's is in the meadow near the Kill ; entrance just be- yond the church. Room for thirty. $6 to $8. Dr. S. L. Ford's is opposite to and just below the church (Metho- dist). Room for twenty. Apply. G. H. Loug-hran's is a quarter of a mile farther on toward Wind- ham. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Going- back now to the East Windham road at O. S. Griffin's corner let us make our way toward that breezy spot. A mile out from Hensonville we reach Union Society postoffice, — an odd name to those not familiar with it. It was g-iven originally because of a Union Church established here many years ag-o, supported by a so- ciety of church members of different denominations. There are some popular houses here. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and many others) for sale at prices noted on back cover page. R. FERRIS, Artist Photographer, West Shokan, N. Y. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 149 UNION SOCIETY P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y. HENSONVILLE FROM UNION SOCIETY. On the East Windham road, looking south— toward Hunter. Georg-e A. Newcomb's is the first we come to. Room for sixty. $7 to $8. David Davis's is a little farther on. The post-ofi&ce is at this house. Room for one hundred. $7 to $8. E. Keirns is a short .distance further. Room for ten. Apply. The roads are excellent here and the ride of four miles from Union Society over to East Windham is most delightful. For a g-ood part of the way there is a double row of elms and maples between which the road lies, a filag-ree of sunshine and shadow. On the rig-ht, across the valley, is Elm Ridge, culminating- in Windham Hig-h Peak, 3500 feet high, at East Windham. About a mile before the hotels on the front of the mountain are reached, a road turns to the left crossing- the valley and up on the side of High Peak. Here is M. E. Sherman's High Peak House. Room for forty. $6 to $9. Ira France takes thirty. $6. Mrs. Mary Butts takes twenty-five. $6 to $8. Elias Mattier takes twenty. $6 and $7. Frank Folg-er takes fifteen. $6. There is a toll-gate just as we reach the mountain edge. The stag-e road to Cairo g-oes down the hill toward the left and the other sweeps around on the face of the mountain, two thousand feet above the vast plain which stretches away for miles and miles until lost in haze, and one cannot tell where earth ends and sky beg-ins. This is one of the grandest views in the region, and the surprise, as one rides suddenly upon it, is complete. From a foreg-round filled with, near-by objects, a view suddenly presents itself wholly of distance, and the eye is momentarily puzzled and sees nothing- for a little until the new conditions are comprehended. Then the wonderful scene begins to clear up. The village directly below us is Cornwallville ; EAST WINDHAM P. O GREENE CO., N. Y. 150 THE CATSKILLS. Oak Hill, three or four miles beyond it ; East Durham off to the rig-ht ; Durham away to the left ; the vast mosaic of ten thousand square miles g-radually taking- form and position. Upon an absolutely clear day the Capitol at Albany can be located with a g-lass, the outlines of the Adirondacks discerned and all intermediate objects come out distinctly in relief, — a mag-nificent scene. There are three houses on this bluff road. The first from the toU-g-ate is A. Lamoreau's Summit House once more in charg-e of its former proprietor. Accommodations for one hundred and twenty-five. $2 per day. $8 to $12 per week. The Butts House, I. C. Butts, Proprietor, stands next to the Summit House commanding- the same g-rand view. Accommodates one hundred. $2 per day. $7 to $10 per week. The Grand View House is reached by a road leading up on to a commanding- knoll which projects out from the face of the mountain giving- an extension of the view in an easterly direction as well as northward. An observatory here offers still g-reater vantag-e. Ac- commodations for fifty. $10 to $15. There are several other houses on the roads below the summit. Geo. H. Sanford takes twenty-five. $6 to $8. Georg-e Bullivant takes twelve. $6. W. S. Smith takes thirty. $8. Ostrander V. Goff takes ten. $6 and $7. From East Windham to Cairo R. R. station is ten miles, and many visitors come that way on account of the lower fare and the shorter stag-e ride. Many g-o throug-h here on stag-es and private conveyances to Hensonville and Windham. To these places the stag-e ride is long-er than from Hunter. The stag-e to Windham takes the road at the top of the hill at Union Society running- down past W. H. Dewell's larg-e house, a mile or more out from Windham. Room for one hundred. $6 to $S. Returning- now to Hensonville for a new start we take the stag-e WINDHAM P O road down to Windham. Hensonville is 1650 GREENE CO N Y ^^^^ above the sea-level, Windham 1500 feet. This is a ride very enjoyable in the surround- ing- scenery, and over an excellent road. Indeed, all the roads about Windham are very g-ood, a fact well appreciated by visitors who do a great deal of riding-. About a mile out of Windham we reach the very attractive suburb, Brooklyn. Here are several tasteful houses surrounded with wide and handsome lawns looking- more like a row of private resi- dences than boarding- houses, — and that much more enjoyable to their inmates, one feels sure. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 151 BROOKLYN. APPROACHING WYNDHAM. Mt. Richmond back of the telegraph pole at the left ; Mt. Pisgan to the right oi the pole at the right. Elbert Osborn and Son have three houses on adjoining- lots. Accommodations for one hundred. $7 to $10. Monroe Mallory's is next. Room for twenty-five. $7 to $9. Ira Thompson's larg-e house is across the veay. Room for sixty. Apply. The Soper Place is next, — two houses belong-ing- to J. Soper and Son. Accommodations for seventy-five. Apply. Samuel Pelham takes twenty-five. Apply. Mrs. John M. Cole's is over the bridge and a little way up the hill. Room for forty. $6 to $8. Coming- into the villag-e of Windham at the upper end we come first to D. C. Tibbals at the corner of the road tnrning- to the rig-ht at Mitchell Hollow. Room for fifteen. Apply. J. B. France's Windham Park Place is next, as we g-o up the Hollow. Room for thirty. $6 to $7. Thos. E. Cryne's is next. Room for twenty. $6. Then C. Hidecker's. Room for fifty. $6. John Carr takes twenty-five. Apply. Thos. Hayden, Jr., takes twenty-five. Apply. H. B. Maben takes twenty. Apply. O. Chittenden's is the last boarding- house in the Hollow, nearly two miles out. Room for twenty. Apply. 152 THE CATSKILI^S. Returning- to the main street we go down the hill into the villag-e. Mill Street turns off here. Jefferson Mead's is next above the mill. Room for fifteen. Apply. Mrs. A. E. West's Glen House is on Mill Street. Room for forty. Apply. Mrs. L. J. Smalling-'s also. Room for twenty. Mrs. M. McClean's is also on Mill Street. Room for fifteen.^ Apply. M. Carr's is on the main street agfain. Room for eight. Apply. H. Bag-ley's is near the bridg-e in the centre of the villag-e. Room for twenty. $6. L. W. Mott's is next the drug- store, just over the bridg-e. Room for eig-ht. Apply. G. P. Townsend's is a little farther down the street. Room for thirty. Apply. Dr. P. I. Stanley's is opposite the school building. Room for twenty. $7. LOOKING BACK TOWARD WINDHAM. Wm. Delamater's in the centre oi the picture ; W. H. Benjamin's at the left. Jacob Turk's is on the corner below. Room for twenty-five.. Apply. The road leading to the left goes up to S. L. Munson's on South Street. He has three houses and accommodates one hundred and twenty-five. $7 to $10. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 153 O. R. Coe's Mountain Home is on the next corner. Room for one hundred. $5 to $8. Transient rates S2 per day. Mrs. G. M. Thorpe's is opposite the post-office. Room for twenty. $6. Clark Diston's is next the post-office. Room for ten. Apply. F. W. Rig"g"s is next. Room for fifteen. Apply. William Fuller farther down the street,— about a quarter of a mile from the post-office, — takes ten. Apply. D. B. Steele's is a quarter of a mile farther on. Room for fifteen. Apply. Wm. De La Mater's is opposite Steele's. Room for thirty. Apply. W. H. Benjamin's is a stone's throw beyond. Room for fifteen. Apply. From a turn in the road near this house a charming- landscape is seen looking- back toward Windham,— eastward. The rich bottom land is full of a lot of wild "stuff" which would delig-ht an artist with its variety of form and color, and the creek running down throug-h it with a wide sweep and a little rift over a low dam gives the foreg-round life and action. The trees beyond are artistically disposed and the entire natural composition altog-ether delightful and picturesque. E. Mung-er's is a few rods beyond Benjamin's. Accommodations for seventy. $7 to $9. A. P. Brewer's is a little further. Room for fifteen. Apply. Frank E. Bump's is next. Room for twenty. $6 and $7. Just below this house the road to North Settlement turns up the hill. At this place, which is about six miles from Windham, there are several houses taking- boarders. Arlington Frayer takes twenty. Apply. S. J. Osborn takes ten. Apply. Oscar Bronson takes forty. $5 to $7. Mrs. D. Richmond takes twenty. S5 to $6. B. Bronson takes fifteen. Apply. On the Javett road Addison Steele has a house with spare room for thirty. Apply. Orrin Doolittle's is up on the shoulder of Mount Pisg-ah, six miles away. Room for fifteen. $1 per day. $6 per week. Which reminds me that a word or two as to Mount Pisgah should not be omitted. It is a favorite and deservedly popular goal for riding parties because of the wonderful view it commands. Mount Pisgah is not a high mountain, but little over 2800 feet, but it stands in an isolated position on the edge of the great plateau with an unobstructed view toward the north over the plain as seen from 154 THE CATSKILLS. MAIN STREET IN WINDHAM. Coe's Hotel in the vista under the trees ; Turk's next on the left. Kast Windham. Toward the southeast and south are the hig-h peaks of Thos. Cole, Black Dome and Black Head reaching- far up above Elm Ridg"e with Windham Hig-h Peak nearer. Farther away are Kaaterskill Hig-h 'Peak, Plateau and Hunter Mountain, Big- Westkill and a lot of others. These are in sig-ht over a wide and broken fore- ground which adds to the view. Far to the northeast are the Green Mountains of Vermont, the White Mountains of New Hampshire and the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts. This g-rand view may be en- joyed without personal exertion, other than riding- over a fair road to the very summit of the mountain. There are many other pleasant drives all about Windham. East Windham is six miles. Red Falls, nine miles, down the Kill throug-h the delig-htful Pleasant Valley and quaint Ashland. Prattsville with the famous carved rocks, eleven miles. Devaseg-o Falls two miles farther. The Kaaterskill reg-ion is within twenty miles, a pleasant day trip. Stony Clove, twelve miles. Ashland is five miles below Windham on the Kill, which is called Batavia Kill on some maps but is known locally as the Big- Red Kill. Inasmuch as the Batavia Kill is in Delaware County emptying into the East Branch of the Delaware at Kelly's Corners, the name Big- Red Kill is more desirable and has the force of a local name, still further emphasized at Red Falls, three miles below Ashland. ASHLAND P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 155 Ashland is a quaint little town, neat in appearance, and at the lower end of a turn in the valley which has received the local name of Pleasant Valley. It is indeed a "pleasant" valley and charming- in scenery, and has a faithful following" of regular boarders which is steadily increasing- in numbers as it becomes better known. J. O. Brezee keeps the hotel. $1 per day. $6 to $7 per week. Room for thirty. WoUaston Ferris takes twenty-five. Apply. T. W. Deming- takes twenty-five. $6. Arthur Martin takes twenty. Apply. James Campbell takes twenty. Apply. Mrs. Watson Richmond takes ten. Apply. Returning- now to Hunter let us take the road down the Scho- harie Creek to Lexington, — a fine and enjoyable drive at any time. The road runs down on the north side of the creek, and across it is a succession of hig-h mountain peaks beg-inning- with the Colonel's Chair, 3200 feet, which looks much hig-her being so near, — then Everg-reen Mountain, 3800 feet, Van Valkenburg-h Peak, 3900 feet, and lastly the hig-h mountain between Lexington and Westkill villag^e for which there seems to be no name though it is distinct in form and important in position, and much hig-her than some others which have been named. Approaching- the villag-e we reach the first boarding- house half |SHH|p?^S^™ MONROE HOUSE, LEXINGTON. 156 THE CATSKILLS. THE BRIDGE AT LEXINGTON. Kipp's Store on the left. George Moore's across the bridge on the hillside. LEXINGTON P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y. a mile on the hither side, the Smith House. Room here for thirty. Apply. A quarter of a mile nearer the village is the|larg"e house of B. O'Hara, well known for many years. Accom- modations for one hundred and twenty-five. $8 to $15. A little farther we pass the neat little Roman Catholic chapel erected largely through the generosity of Mr. O'Hara and his board- ers who are mainly of that d^omination. Religious services are held daily at such times in the season as a clergyman is here. A few rods further on is the Baptist Church. Mrs. R. M. Douglass's is next. Room for fifty. $7 to $9. Clarence Thompson's is on the cemetery road. Room for thirty. $6 to $8. H. Kipp's is opposite the bridge. Room for sixty-five. Apply. The Monroe House is just below the bridge on the bank of the Creek. Room for sixty. Apply. J. M. Valkenburgh and Son, Pro- prietors. C. L. Kipp's Crystal Lake House is a few steps further down the street. Room for thirty. Apply. Lament's Elm Tree House is nearly a mile below, near the school house on the road to Prattsville. Room for sixty. Apply. Returning now to the bridge we cross over into that part of the village on the southerly side of the Creek. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 157 Georg"e Moore's faces the bridg^e on that side. Room for forty- five. Apply. THE LOWER PORTION OF THE VILLAGE OF LEXINGTON, From the hills opposite. Tower Mountain in the distance. The Lexing-ton House, kept by S. A. Van Valkenburg-h is just below the bridge on the bank of the Creek, — opposite the Monroe House on the other bank. Accommodations for fifty. $7 to $10. W. M. Orr's is a quarter of a mile down on this road. Room for twenty. Apply. A. J. Pettit's is half a mile further just off the main road to the left. Room for twenty-five. $6 to $8. This road is the stag-e road to Shandaken from which station many visitors come to Lexing-ton. The ride is a little long-er than from Hunter but is very interesting-, passing- throug-h the beautiful Bushnellville Clove and the Echo Notch. The fare, too, by this route is somewhat lower. Welcome Van Valkenburg-h's is a short distance beyond Pettitt's. Room for twenty. Apply. Georg-e H. Hasting-s is next. Room for ten. Apply. S. C. Chamberlain's is a mile further on the Shandaken road, half way between Westkill and Lexing-ton. Room for sixty. $7. J. H. Rorabeck and Son have a larg-e house a mile from Cham- berlain's, up on Beech Ridg-e. Room for fifty. $7 to $9. Lexington is a very popular summer resort and is g-ay with young- people from early in the season till quite late. The Lake, formed by a low dam across the creek at the lower end of the village, 158 THE CATSKILLS CRYSTAL LAKE FROM THE BRIDGE. Looking west. is a source of much pleasure. Boating is an amusement one never tires of, and the little expense necessary to secure it'oug-ht to be forth- coming- at every place of resort in the mountains. There is scarcely any locality where a little well directed enterprise backed by engi- neering- could not produce an artificial pond at an expense which would be trifling when considered beside the added pleasure to sum- mer guests. A descriptive sketch of Lexington is not complete without some reference to Vly Mountain, over 3800 feet high, which stands about three miles below, and west of, the village. It is one of the scenic features of the locality. Vinegar Hill spreads its rounded top in between. As to its peculiar name, the reader is referred to a Lexing- tonian for the story. CHAPTER XXXV. TANNERSVILLE. ELKA park; SCHOHARIE manor ; ONTEORA PARK. AS was noted in the preceding chapter, there is no distinct sepa- ration between Hunter and Tannersville. The two places- have grown toward each other along the connecting road until they blend into one continuous village. But the choice as to post-ofdce draws a line which must be adopted in this book. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 159 The fact that most of the visitors to this point come by way of Catskill and the Otis Elevating- Railway would throw this chapter farther toward the back of the book, but its location would seem to demand that it be considered here. At Tannersville the plateau, discussed in Chapter XXXIII, is in evidence, the level, or approximately level, land being" about four miles in width, — from Elka Park on the south to Onteora Park on the north. This is at the head of the Plaaterkill Clove, the Kaaters- kill Clove also having" an influence here, but beginning" its bolder plung"e at Haines Corners, the division between the two being" marked just here by Clum Hill, which is an outpost of the Kaaterskill Hig"h Peak. The Schoharie Creek marks the lowest line in the plateau, and Tannersville lies on the rising" land north of it, some farming" country and bits of woods lying between. The site is rolling-, and the main street, which is macadamized, g"oes up hill and down dale, 2000 feet above the sea, plus or minus, in very pleasant fashion. The Kaaterskill R. R. runs through the town on its way from. Kaaterskill Junction to Otis Summit or re- turn, and brings visitors from both direc- tions; — from the Junction those who come by way of Kingston and Phoenicia ; from Otis Summit those who come by way of Catskill and the Otis Elevating" Railway. The station is conveniently near the centre of the town. Making" our way over to the main thoroughfare we pass Frank Eggleston's Mountain Retreat with room for fifty. $8 to $12. TANNERSVILLE P. O., GREENE CO., N. Y. G. N. EGGLESTON'3 CASCADE HOUSE. 160 THE CATSKILLS. Nelson Campbell's is next. Room for one hundred. Apply. Reaching- the main street, the Hotel Sohmer is directly opposite. This was formerly the old Rog-g-en's Mountain Hotel. Mr. Henry Sohmer is now the proprietor. Room for two hundred. Apply. Open the year round. Turning to the left, — toward Hunter, we come immediately to G. N. Eg"gleston's Cascade House on the left, — the southerly side of the street, up on a little terrace. Just beyond in the rear are the spacious barns where the horses of guests are cared for. The house has accommodations for seventy, and is under the critical personal supervision of Mr. Egg*leston. Terms $2 per day. $8 to $10 per week. Henry Eggleston's Mountain Zephyr comes next on the same side of the street. Room for fifty. $8 to $10. Roumanow's Bakery is a landmark among cottag-es on both sides. Mrs. James Brown's Maple Grove House is next, on the north side. Room for fifty. Apply. Next is the Waverly, M. Kandel, Proprietor. $2.50 per day. $12 to $18 per week. Accommodations for one hundred and fifty. Chas. h. Ford's Pleasant View House is next, also on the north side. Room for one hundred and twenty-five. $2 per day. $10 per week. Miss Kate Brown's cottage is next. Room for twenty. $8 to $10. The Elka View House is next, on the crest of this rise. Accom- modates one hundred. Apply for terms to Eisenberg- and Kromfield, Proprietors. John J. Haines's Mountain View House is next. Room for twenty-five. Apply. Morris Chester's Oriental House is next. Room for sixty. $8 to $16. The Fabian House, at the corner, has not been leased and may not be open this season. Returning- now to the street from the station, opposite the Hotel Sohmer, let us take our journey eastward, — toward Haines's Falls. Burgess Howard's Souvenir Store is a few rods up the street. Here there is a dam and a pretty pond which g-ives Mr. Howard the power needed for his lathes and saws and for a printing- press also. As Mr. Howard turns out a superior quality of fancy wood- work, and finishes with more than usual care, his salesroom is a busy place. And, being- a manufacturer, his stock doesn't g-et ex- hausted in variety. If you wish an unusually pretty souvenir to take home, remember the name, — Burgess Howard, — and the place, — rcxt building to the Hotel Sohmer g-rounds, on the east. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 161 The Tantiersville Mansion House is a few steps beyond, and across the street, — on the south side, — on a' little private knoll. The TANNERSVILLE MANSION HOUSE. Geo. Campbell, Proprietor. broad verandahs are the delig"ht of a g'oodly company who come early and stay late, for this house is one of the most popular in the place. Accommodations for one hundred and fifty. $2 per day. $9 to $12 per week. Geo. Campbell, Proprietor. Now comes a little open space opposite the stores, among- which the fine new building- of John F. Gray deserves special mention. JOHN F. GRAY'S STORE AND LIVERY. 162 THE CATSKILLS. "Within there is a very larg-e and well selected stock of the widest variety. Mr. Gray also conducts a well-appointed and extensive livery. A road across to Elka Park and Schoharie Manor now leaves the main road. On this branch road are some larg^e houses. Jacobsen's has room for one hundred. Apply. Blythewood accommodates one hundred. Apply. Just beyond this branch road is H. Levy's Grand Central House, on the south side of the street. Room for one hundred. Apply. Opposite, and at the corner above, the road leading- northward up to the hills, is the Hotel Welden, Daniel Promer, Proprietor. Room for fifty. $1.50 per day. $8 to $10 per week. Turning- off on the branch road we find Geo. Bachman's "La V e 1 a. " Room for ii'V^^^I ■/•.ji - sixty. Apply. Next to Bach- man's is L. A. Boens's "La Tou- raine." Room for fifty. $2 per day. $8 to $12 per week. Next is M. E. Francis's cottag-e. Room for twenty- iive. Apply. Farther up on this road are a num- ber of houses. James Flannagan takes twenty-five. Apply. $7 to $9. LA TOURAINE. L. A. BOENS, PROPRIETOR. Roe's Cottag-e accommodates twenty-five Matt. Moran takes twenty-five. $8. . Christian Ott's Washing-ton Park is away up on the hillside a mile from the corner on the main road at Hotel Welden. Room for seventy. $7 and $8. O. O. Flanag-an's "The Knoll" is a quarter of a mile further. Room for twenty-five. Apply. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and manj- others) for sale at prices noted on back cover page. R. FERRIS, Artist Photographer, West Shokan, N. Y. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 163 Returtiins: now to the main road and continuing- eastward toward Haines Fall we climb a sudden rise to John M. Fro- mer's Grand View. Room for twenty. $8 to $10. Still hig-her up is C. Wiltse's house "The American," frequented by g-uests of refined and quiet tastes for whom Mr. Wiltse makes an en- joyable summer home. A boarding- and livery stable is an adjunct to the establishment from which car- riag-es are furnished for church attendance to the guests on Sundays. Room for fifty. $7 to $10. M. E. FRANCIS'S COTTAGE. THE AMERICAN. C. A. WILTSE, Proprietor. L. L. Woodard's " Woodard House" is next beyond Mr. Wiltse's. The eng-raving- does not give a fair idea of the house which extends back to g-ive comfortable accommodations for forty. $7 to $10. A little farther on, across the street, is Wm. Mulford's "Clover Cottage." Room for twenty. Apply. 164 THE CATSKILLS. L. L. WOODARD'S HOUSE. Mrs. S. S. Mulford's Mountain Summit House is on the crest of this hill. Accommo- dations for two hun- dred. Apply. This house is a long- half mile from the sta- tion. On the other side is E. H. Layman's " M a p 1 e w o o d . " Room for thirty-five. Apply. Next is Mrs. H. A. Layman's. Room for fifty. Apply. From here on there is a fine bit of woodland road about a quarter of a mile before we come to the first house in the Haines Falls section. Many small houses have been necessarily omitted for want of space, and these are equally as desirable to some visitors as the larger ones. A brief list follows so that they may be addressed by mail by those who pre- fer to be in a smaller company than will be found at the larger board- ing" houses and hotels. Near the station are Kzra's B. Howards ; room for twenty. Apply. Dr. Georg-e Haner's ; room for twenty-five. Apply. A, S. Haines's ; room for twenty-five. $7 and $8. Menzo Sharpe's ; room for ten. Apply. C. G. Wagoner's ; room for ten. Apply. Farther away, from a quarter to half a mile will be found Wm. Worden's ; room for thirty ; $7 to $10. Isaac Showers's ; room for eig^ht. Apply. Rufus Showers has room for fifteen. Apply. Mrs. E. Shewmaker takes thirty. Apply. F. C. Post takes twenty-five. $8 to $10. Wm. Grimm takes fifteen. 87. Thos. Dunbar takes twenty. Apply. A. M. Wiltse takes twenty. $8 to $10. Still farther away, — from half a mile to a mile from the station are these : Miss Lucy Craig- takes eig-hteen. Apply. E. M. Haines takes twenty. Apply. Daniel Shevlin takes fifteen. Apply. Mrs. J. F. Rogers takes ten. Apply. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 165 M. O'Hara takes twenty-five. $8. Mrs. Hiram Roe takes twenty. Apply. Georg-e Showers takes twelve. Apply. C. H. Leg-g-'s "Upland" is up on the hill north of the Mountain Summit House, two miles from the station. Room for forty. Apply. Let us g-lance now at the parks over on the southern slopes. Elka Park, the older of the two, has now upwards of twenty cottag-es scattered over the roomy tract belonging to the Association, near enough together for all social pleasures and yet with abundant g"rounds to secure all the comforts of a separate and private estate. The Association is formed principally by members of the Liederkranz of New York, from whose name the two letters L K were taken to give the park its striking and expressive name. SCHOHARIE MANSION. The marked success of Elka Park led to the starting of a new one, Schoharie Manor, a few years ago, by Mr. Paul Goepel, of New York, the originator of the former. Schoharie Manor is a Cottag-e Club which owns five hundred acres of land adjacent to Elka Park, elegantly located on the gentler slopes of " Spruce-Top," a turreted spur of Plateau Mountain reaching- out into the valley so as to com- 166 THE CATSKILLS. mand superb views in all directions. The Association has built a splendid Club House called Schoharie Mansion, which is acknowl- edged to be the finest specimen of modern Colonial Architecture in the State, and is up-to-date with its sanitary sewerag-e, electric bells and g-as-lig^hting-. Cottage sites are being- sold to members of the Association only, in order to control the tract, and keep it confined to a limited number of refined families. The elevation of the tract, — 2200 feet above the sea, — and its location on a slope toward the north, ensures the best of atmospheric conditions, and next year will doubtless see many roofs lifted up among- the handsome tree-tops. From Tannersville the stately roof of the Mansion is a conspicuous object with its three flagfs flying- ag-ainst the dark backg-round of the forest-clad dome of Mink Mountain. Journeying- eastward over the heig-ht of land in Platterkill Clove we reach Thomas Seifferth's house, three miles from the Tannersville station. Room for fifty. Three miles fur- ther on is the Plat- terkill Falls House, H. V. Leaycraft, Room for sixty. $7 to $10 per week. The other park at Tannersville is On- teora Park over on the hills north of the town. The g-rounds comprise a tract which spreads over the Onteora Mountain, an elevation some three hundred feet above the Tanners- ville Plateau and commanding- a g-rand view of the entire rang-e of peaks from Platterkill Mountain on the east to the Colonel's Chair at Hunter, with the nearer local mountains. The Club House bears the olden-time title of " The Bear and Fox Inn," and there are many pretty cottag-es owned by persons of wealth and refinement scattered about the domain. THOS. seifferth's HOUSE. FINE PHOTOGRAPHS of any of the views pictured in this book (and many others) for sale at prices noted on back cover pag-e. R. FERRIS, Artist Photographer. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 167 CHAPTER XXXVI. HAINES' CORNERS. This old-time summer resort has put on so many modern appear- ances that it would hardly be recognized by a visitor who had not seen it for ten or twelve years. But the grand clove is there as of old untouchable by the hand of man and we look down through the ranks of forest covered slopes to the lowlands, and away out over them to the Hudson, and far beyond the Hudson to where the Berk- shire Hills mark out a horizon line against the sky. There isn't any other clove in all the mountains approaching the old Kaaterskill Clove in beauty. Something it has which is absent in others, so that Haines' Corners has become a perennial resort. People have not been content to visit and view its loveliness but have desired to live within its influences, and hence have sprung several cottage asso- ciations. Twilight Park, Santa Crus Park, Sunset Park, and private cottages beside. Here we are at the edge of the great plateau, 2000 feet above the sea, at the head of the world-famous Haines' Falls a- plunge of 160 feet, with a further fall of about 1200 feet in four miles before reaching Palenville at the foot of the Clove, so that there are cascades and rapids, each one beautiful, all the way down. Nearly two miles down the Kaaterskill Creek enters from the noted Kaaters- kill Falls, at the Laurel House. The Parks are on the southerly side of the Clove and reach up on the slopes and ledges of Round Top,^ commanding delightful views. The post ofBce name here is Haines' Falls, the railroad name Haines' Corners. HAINES- FALLS P. o., ^.g.^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ locality from both direc- GREENE CO., N. Y. ^.^^^ ^^^ usually from Catskill by the Cats- kill Mountain Railway and the Otis Elevating Railway and finally the Kaaterskill R. R. The Kaaterskill trains also bring many who have come by way of Kingston and the Ulster and Delaware R. R. and the Stony Clove R. R. Close by the station is the Hallenbeck House at the angle of the road from Tannersville and the road to the Laurel House. Three streams unite just above the bridge forming a fine pond, and a pretty cascade is formed by the overflow. This house is central to one of the most interesting localities in the Catskill region, within walking distance of most of the noted scenic attractions and the great hotels. The rooms are large and airy, and every effort used to secure com- fort to guests. Accomodations for forty-five. This house is open 168 THE CATSKILLS. THE HALLENBECK HOUSE. the year round and provided with steam heat when the weather makes it desirable. A g"ood livery is an adjunct, very useful to the g-uests. W. I. Hallenbeck, Proprietor. Apply for terms. Taking- the road at the side of the Hallenbeck, up along the pond, we may turn to the left at the school-house corner, a few rods down to Mrs. John O'Hara's Shady Grove. Room for forty. Apply. On the Tannersville road a quarter of a mile from Hallenbeck's is the Mascotte, a new house. Room for forty. Apply. Crossing the bridge, to the right, at the school house, we take the first road to the left to Owen Glennon's Glen Park House. Room for one hundred. $8 to $12. Keeping on the main road easterly, a few rods away is "The Antlers," E. M. Butler, Proprietor. Accommodations for one hun- dred and fifty. Apply for booklet and terms. A quarter of a mile further is J. E. Haines'. Room for twenty. Apply. Half a mile farther on is the " Gem of the Catskills," kept for so many seasons by Nelson T. Scribner. Mrs. E. Pfendler is in charge this year. Room for fifty. $10 per week. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 169 « A few rods further a road branching- to the right (southerly) leads to the Laurel House Station, and the Laurel House. See next chapter. Half a mile further another road turns to the south leading to Scribner's, and thence to the Hotel Kaaterskill, also noticed in next chapter. Returning- now to the corner at the Hallenbeck House, there is the Central House, Geo. W. Reed, Proprietor, almost opposite. Room for sixty-five. Apply. S. P. Scott's is a little way over the track, past the station. Room for fifty. $8 to $10. A few rods further is Loxhurst, S. E. Rusk, Proprietor. Room for sixty. $10. E. E. Pelham's "Kenwood" is a little way beyond, half a mile from the station. Room for fifty. $8 to $12. The Haines' Falls House is next, on the bluff at the head of the falls. Accommodations for ninety. $8 to $10. At Twilig-ht Park are the Twilig-ht Club House, Ledg-e End Inn and Squirrel Inn, all under the manag-ement of Chas. F. Wing-ate. About four hundred g-uests may be accommodated. $10 to $15 per ■week. At Santa Cruz Park is the Santa Cruz Lodg-e. Room for fifty. Apply. ... ! Other houses at or near Haines Falls are in this list : Mrs. M. J. Haines takes twenty-five. Apply. Samuel S. Haines takes twenty-five. Apply. Peter Haines takes twenty. $8 to $10. Mrs. James Haines takes twelve. Apply. D. Edwards takes fifteen. Apply. Richard Haines takes twenty. Apply. E. Adams, near the Laurel House, takes eig-ht. Apply. CHAPTIiR XXXVII. THE MOUNTAIN HOUSES. ■CATSKILL MOUNTAIN HOUSE, LAUREL HOUSE, HOTEL KAATERSKILL. The Catskill Mountain House is the oldest hotel in the region, having entered upon its prosperous career in 1823, so that this is its seventy-fourth year. Of course, the present stately building is not the one originally erected. The site of the " Old Mountain House," as it is often called, is still the favorite with a multitude of visitors, .and it has its peculiar charm. Its approach from the rear, bringing 170 THE CATSKILLS. the wide and far-reaching- lowland view suddenly before the specta- tor adds to its wonderful attractiveness, and for these reasons it will never lose its power to draw thousands to stand in silent admiration of a world-famed panorama. But the site of the house is not the only outlook. The cliffs and ledg-es of both North and South Moun- tains lying respectively north and south of the hotel afford other and very remarkable views to those who visit them. The beautiful lakes covering- 26 and 33 acres respectively are within ten minutes walk of the hotel and in themselves are natural curiosities lying over 2000 feet above the sea-level. In the mountains also are concealed glens, springs, cascades (in seasons not too dry) and many odd formations of rock and tree, which make the locality a treasure house of the wild and grand. The Catskill Mountain Mountain House accommodates four hun- dred guests. Terms $14 to $21 per week. Post-office address is Catskill, N. Y. The Laurel House was started but a few years later than the old Mountain House, in a location as different as it were possible to select. In an unbroken bit of forest, at the head of the beautiful THE LAUREL HOUSE. Kaaterskill Falls, the inspiration of poets and painters for half a century and more, with an outlook into a great woodland amphi- theatre with trees in endless ranks and tiers and no distant view evcept the sky by day and the stars by night ; this lovely spot has too its distinctive charm, and no one has ever spent a day there but FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 171 Tiis heart will leap at the mention of its name alone, — The Laurel House. The Kaaterskill is the outlet of the North and South Lakes, and receives beside some other waters. In the spring- when water is plenty, it is a lusty stream and leaps grandly off from the rocky slide down into the shallow pool at the foot of the plung-e one hundred and eig-hty feet. Here in the wide basin it gathers its spray into liquid again and jumps once more into the pile of great rocks eighty feet below. During- the summer when the volume of the brook is much reduced, provision is made to dam up a large supply of water, which is let loose in sufficient quantity from time to time, so that the visitor in the dry season may enjoy the sight as well as in that season when brooks are gladdest and merriest. A favorite spot from which to view the falls is Prospect Rock about 500 yards away on the opposite side of the ravine. Safe stairs and steps are built down to the foot of the falls so that the magnificent plunge can be witnessed from below. It is possible also to pass back of the upper fall, and a path leads down the ravine into the Kaaterskill Clove about a mile below Haines Fall at the head of that Clove. Sunset Rock is another point of great interest, a short mile from the hotel. It is the top of a precipice high above the bottom of the ravine, and commands a majestic view of the mountains opposite from base to summit, an unbroken spread of forest. Toward the west the view opens over Haines Falls country and so onward to the horizon. When the sun- set glow lights the sky and plays over the nearer mountains, and the deep blue shadows of evening gather in the abyss of the Clove at one's feet, the effect is sublime beyond description. The Laurel House accommodates two hundred and fifty. For terms apply to A. Christian, Haines Falls P. O., N. Y. The third hotel in this locality is the Hotel Kaaterskill, the largest mountain hotel in the world. This is a newer house than either of the others, and twice as large as the other two combined. It stands grandly on the crest of Kaaterskill Mountain which joins South Mountain on the south, a monument to the energy and enter- prise of Geo. Harding, Esq., of Philadelphia. The story of its build- ing reads like a fairy tale. "In September, 1880, the site of this mammoth building was a forest of scrubby trees fighting- with the rocky top of the mountain for bare existence. Seven hundred men were set at work, and all through the winter, intensely bitter at that altitude, they wrestled with the wildest of Nature's works in her wildest and savagest moods, conquering every obstacle, so that in the following July the immense building was open to guests, surrounded by a handsome park in a magnificent estate of over 12,000 acres of land, throughout which drives and walks had been laid out, farms 172 THE CATSKILLS established to supply dairy and g-arden products and fresh fruit, and the whole perfected under the personal supervision of Mr. Harding-. It is quite within the bounds of truth to say that this feat has- never been equalled, the world around. The scenic attractions at the Hotel Kaaterskill are too numerous to mention, — as the boy said about the leg-s of the centipede. The grand view is different from that at the Old Mountain House, not quite so extended toward the south, being- cut off by the slope of Kaaterskill Hig-h Peak, which in itself is a g-rand feature, reaching- 4000 feet into the air and clad with a superb forest. It is hard to choose between the views, — and quite unnecessary, for the Mountain House is but fifteen minutes walk distant, so that both may be enjoyed without fatig-ue. The Laurel House and the Kaaterskill Falls are only a mile away, and the Kaaterskill Clove with its many and varied natural beauties is within two miles, usually visited with the aid of a team, but well within the powers of the enthusiastic. South Lake has been rechristened Kaaterskill Lake, and the fascinations of boating- are added to other out-door enjoyments. The Hotel Kaaterskill accommodates twelve hundred g-uests. Terms $21 per week and upwards. Post-office address, Kaaterskill^ Greene Co., N. Y. CHAPTER XXXVIII. THE CATSKILL LOWLANDS, THE CATSKILL MOUNTAIN RAILWAY AND THE OTIS ELEVATING RAILWAY. UNDER this title we may g-roup the many summer resorts in the territory lying- between the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains. It is a rolling plain with ridges running north and south and from eight miles to twenty in width from the river back to the slopes of the mountains. Speaking generally, it rises gradually from a few feet above the river to 600 or 700 feet above it near the mountains, so that none of it can be called high. But there are thou- sands upon thousands of visitors all over this tract every season, who reap great benefit from their brief stay ; and, as before remarked, this should be evidence enough to confirm the statement that elevation need not be considered as an important factor in seeking refreshing in the Catskills. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 173- This section is reached through the villag^e of Catskill as a land- ing" place for the various river boats and a station on the West Shore R. R. Thence the Catskill Mountain Railway carries many passen- g-ers to the various points of interest and resort, althoug"h the stage lines still find plenty of customers. Following- our plan of using- the railroads we shall go from point to point as may be reached most expeditiously from the several sta- tions. The reg-ion is extremely interesting not only for its own nat- ural beauties, but the g-reat mountains which are always in grand review from any point, add a fascinating background. The roads are g-ood, in the main, and driving is a favorite form of amusement. The many brooks, ponds, cascades and picturesque building-s make beautiful landscape pictures which never tire those fond of rural scenes. The Catskill Mountain Railway is a narrow g-auge road, the main line running- from Catskill to Palenville, and a branch from Cairo Junction to Cairo. At Otis Junction, between Lawrenceville and Palenville it connects with the Otis Elevating- Railway, an in- cline seven thousand feet long- by which a height of sixteen hundred feet is overcome ; the time required for the trip being- only ten min- utes, — a saving- of over an hour by the former stag-e line. The Otis- road was not planned by an artist, so it is not pretty to look at, and many impatient words are spoken over the scar it makes on the sub- lime slopes by those who feel the marring- of former beauty. But it " g-ets there," and that seems to be the main idea in these latter days of hustle. The sensation as one rises from the plain is very peculiar. The distant landscape seems to rise as we g-o up, the horizon line ex- tending farther and farther as the point of view is raised. It is doubtless easier on the horses, but the pleasure part of the ride up the mountain is missing-. And whether one looks up or down the thing- it is an eyesore, and a serious blot upon the famous view from the old Mountain House. CHAPTER XXXIX. CATSKILL, PALENVILLE AND CAIRO AND ADJACENT RESORTS. THE village of Catskill has become very important as a point of transfer, a large conting-ent of summer travel passing- throug-h it by rail and from the steamers. The Day Line connects with the trains on the Catskill Mountain Railway for points on the low- 174 THE CATSKILLS. lands and also on the top of the mountain. There is also a nig-ht line of steamers from New York to Catskill whose passeng-ers take the early trains, or stages, to various points. This is the most econ- omical in money, but consumes more time. The West Shore Rail- road runs throug-h the villag-e, also bring-ing- many of the visitors. Catskill villag-e has also become a resort, being- pleasantly located CATSKILL P O with interesting- scenery about and amid hand- GREENECo". N.' Y. some views. The Rappelyea House (C. C. Rappleyea) has room for fifty ; within 100 yards of the station. $2 per day. $8 per week. Close by is the Smith House. Accommodations for seventy-five. $2.50 per day. $8 upward per week. W. M. Smith, Proprietor. J. L. Yates's is a quarter of a mile away. Room for fifteen. Apply. Frank Olmstead takes twenty. $6. The Hotel Irving- accommodates one hundred. $2 to $3 per day. Special rates by the week. Georg-e H. Anderson, Proprietor. J. H. Van Gelder's Cherry Hill House has room for thirty-five. $6 to $8. S. Holcomb, at the Jefferson House, has room for forty. The Grant House, half a mile away, on Jefferson Heig-hts, accom- modates three hundred. $3 per day. $10 to $20 per week. Grant & Cornell, Proprietors. Geo D. Sears, Manag-er. The Prospect Park Hotel, a well known landmark to those who travel on the River will re-open the first of June under the manag-e- ment of J. S. Brig-g-s. Room for three hundred and fifty. Apply for terms. The Summit Hill House, a mile away, accommodates three hundred. $1.50 per day. $7 to $10 per week. Gay's Hotel accommodates seventy-five. $7 to $12. Gay & Sons, Proprietors. Jefferson Cottag-e (Wm. Prindle), takes twenty-five. $5 and $6. Grove House (J. h Goltermann), takes thirty. $5 to $7. John E. Overbaugh takes seventy-five. $6 to $10. D. D. Van Valkenburg-h takes twenty-five. $6 to $9. Mrs. Horace Barker takes twenty. $6. Ralph P. Barker takes thirty. $6 to $10. Frank Van Dyke takes fifteen. $6 to $8. L. E. Tuttle takes thirty-five. $6. Geo. W. Goetchius takes twenty. $6. Mrs. Douglas Van Dyke takes twenty. $8 to $10. Mrs. Philip Plusch takes one hundred at the "Swiss Home," a mile and a half from the station. $7 to $12. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 175 Andrew Parsons takes fifty. $7 to $12. Wm. H. Jackson takes thirty. Apply. M. Lauria has room for one hundred at the " Salisbury House." $6 to $8. C. E. Covell, at Pleasant View Farm, three miles out, takes thirty. $6. The Glenwood Hotel, five miles away from the station is a fav- orite resort with many. Accommodations for two hundred. $8 to $10. V. Bramson, Proprietor. Kiskatom is about seven miles from Catskill toward Palenville, and being- so much nearer the mountains commands .more impressive KISKATOM P O. views of them. It is reached by conveyances GREENE CO N Y from Catskill Landings or West Shore station,, also from Lawrenceville station on the Catskill Mountain Railway, about two miles away. The country about is pretty, and it is a favorite place for spending- a vacation. David Bloom takes seventy. $7 to $10. Frederick Saxe takes forty. $7 to $8. Mrs. G. W. Fisher takes forty. $6 to $8. M. K. Lasher takes thirty. $6. Herbert Lasher takes thirty. $6. Peter N. Mower takes thirty. $6. Geo. W. Winans takes thirty. $6 and $7. J. C. Rider takes fifty. $10. L. Overbaugh takes twenty. $6. Leeds is four miles from Catskill on the Catskill Mountain Rail- way, but is as often reached by private stages from the several LEEDS p o houses, most of them making no charge for GREENE go' N Y ^^^^ service. An inquiry when writing, as to this matter will make it plain. Some make no charge for conveyance to the house, but only when returning. A regular stage runs daily except Sunday. Fare 50 cents. M. A. Vedder takes forty. $6 and $7. Uriah Harris takes twenty. $5 and $6. J. M. Day takes sixty at the Green Lake House. $6 to $8. J. Sterritt at Green Lake Farm takes twenty-five. $6. Jacob Phister takes sixty at the Bethel Ridg-e House. $6. George Bedeau takes seventy. $6. Mrs. L. M. Bloom takes twenty. $6. Joseph McGiffert & Sons accommodate one hundred and twenty at Green Lake Homestead, on the shore of Green Lake, which is a handsome lakelet one mile long, and affording- delightful boating. $6 to $8. H. M. Hankinson takes twenty-five. $6 to $7. 176 THE CATSKILLS. Wm. Cunningham takes twenty. $6. J. W. Cunning-ham takes fifteen. $8 to $10. W. G. Wolcott takes twenty. Apply. J. P. Stewart takes fifteen. Apply. Some houses whose post-office is Leeds, are nearer the Cairo Junction station. A. M. Stewart takes twenty-five. $6. Frank Winans takes twenty. Apply. Mrs. Chas. A. Vedder takes twenty-five. $8 to $10. PAI^ENVILLE. The next station on the C. M. Ry., reserving- South Cairo for the present, is Lawrenceville, four miles from Palenville, but the few PALENVILLE P O houses there g-et their mail at Palenville GREENE COUNTY N Y post-office SO they may all be noticed under the one section. These houses will be found nearer to the Lawrenceville station : F. W. Brandow's is just across the road from the station. Room for twenty. Apply. W. H. Bog-ardus, a few rods away, has room for twenty. Apply. D. L. Winter takes twenty-five. Apply. G. H. Austin takes twenty. Apply. Edward Peters takes fifteen. Apply From Lawrenceville the train makes a rapid run to the station on the outskirts of Palenville. The Otis Junction is reached a short mile before we g-et to Palenville. The old Mountain House is in full view most of the distance, and one never g-rows weary of looking- up at it serenely perched on the very edge of the cliffs Palenville occupies a delightful location at the foot of the Kaa- terskill Clove, down which there is a movement of air which is very refreshing on a hot day. The Clove itself is full of points of inter- est in the way of cliffs and chasms, cascades and waterfalls, places of outlook, etc. It has been for years the resort of famous artists who have created a school of American art by their faithful rendering of American scenery and the scenery of the Catskills, has become widely known through their works, not alone in this country, but in Europe also. This fact is mentioned to show the scenic advantages of Palen- ville which have been thus endorsed by these men best fitted to ap- preciate its beauties. More than a thousand people come to this little village each year to spend their summer vacation. "The Winchelsea" (A. J. Teale) is the nearest to the station, five minutes walk. There are two houses here, accommodating sixty. Apply. Opposite the next corner is the post-office, then next to that the 178 THE CATSKILLS. Hotel Richmond with room for one hundred and fifty. H. W. Gor- don, Proprietor. C. Goodwin's Central House is opposite the Hotel Richmond, a long- quarter of a mile from the station. Room for forty-five. $7 to $10. Cornelius DuBois's Pine Grove House is next above the Rich- mond on the bank of the Kaaterskill. Room for seventy-five. $10 to $12. The road turning" north just here g"oes to Cairo and Purling" by way of Pelham's Corners, where the Mountain House road crosses it, and througfh Lawrenceville. The distance is about ten miles, — g"Ood measure. Mrs. Anna Hill's cottag-e is near this corner. Room for fifteen. $8 to $10. Nelson Garrison's is further on up the Clove. Room for thirty- five. $7 to 8. P. H. Scribner's "Sunny Slope" is a long quarter mile farther up ; a mile from the station. Room for fifty. $7 to $12. Mrs. E. Burg"er's is a quarter of a mile beyond Scribner's across the bridg"e. Room for fifteen. Apply. Following" down the other side of the stream we come to E. E« Goodwin's, half a mile nearer the station. Room for forty. Apply. Charles A. Stewart's Centennial Cottag"e is just opposite. Room for thirty. $6 and $7. Isaac Manning-'s is here also. Room for forty. Apply. W. A. Goodwin takes twenty. Apply. Farther down the street is the Arling"ton, with accommodations for seventy. $7 to $10. A. Timmerman, Proprietor. Returning" now to the station we take the "Turnpike" toward Catskill. The first road to the left leads to Cairo, and on this road just beyond the school-house, is Philo Peck's Maple Grove House with its spacious g"rounds and beautiful trees. Room for one hun- dred. $8 to $10. Georg"e Wynkoop's is just around the turn, facing" the bridg"e. Room for seventy-five. Apply. The road leading" to the rig"ht from the corner on the turnpike goes to Saugerties, West Saugerties, or Woodstock, as one may choose. Dr. C. H. Chubb's "Ingleside" is a few yards down this road. Room for twenty-five guests. $7 to $10 per week. H. M. Dederick's " Drummond's Falls House" is a quarter of a mile beyond, near these fine falls (on the Kaaterskill). Room for seventy-five. $7 to $12. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 179 Eug-ene Abeel's Etna Cottag-e is here also. Room for twenty- five. Apply. Returning- to the turnpike where we left it at the corners, we find D. T. Lennon's a little way on toward Catskill. Room for twenty- five. $8 to $12. W. E. Haines's is half a mile further. Room for twenty. $6 to $8. Mrs. M. Kraus's is opposite Haines's. Room for fifty. $8 to $10. The villag-e of Saxton is two miles from Palenville station on the c.Axx-,-«K, p, r^ road to Saug-erties about a mile beyond Drum- SAXTON P. O., , ,^ r i , iiic-rcD o/-. M V mond's Palls. There are a few houses here receiving- boarders m summer. Mrs. J. E. O'Bryan takes twenty. 86. Myer Cohen takes thirty-five. Apply. H. Van Gaasbeck has room for fifty at the "Westmoreland." $6 to $. West Saug-erties is making- steady progress as a summer resort. It is pleasantly located at the foot of the Plaaterkill Clove which is lA/cc-r QAiinPRxiPQ P n ^ very fine ravine, only less interesting- WEST SAUGERTIES P. O., , . ^^ , . -n Ai o i i • ... ^^^„^^ ^, „ than the Kaaterskill Clove. Schoharie ULSTER CO., N. Y. ,^ . , . r -i r inr ^ o „ Manor is but four miles from West Sau- g-erties up the Clove, and Saug-erties is about seven miles away. This short route to the Tannersville country will certainly be made use of within a short time, and the little villag-e now so quiet will be g-ay with passing- teams. There are some fine natural features in this clove, and the landscape views are g-rand. Fred. Mott takes twenty. Apply. Mrs. C. Connell takes twenty-five. Apply. John Yeager takes twenty. Apply. John Schuchs takes twenty. Apply. We may now take South Cairo, passed over in speaking- of Cairo Junction. The railroad trains stop a g-ood half-mile from the villag-e and swing around to a rig-ht ang-le to g-o to Palenville. The villag-e is a pretty one in a vale throug-h which runs the Catskill Creek, and it is well liked by a larg-e number of people who go there reg-ularly year after year. As we enter the villag-e from the station we come first to Watson ^ Jump's Scotch Rock House. Room for thirty. SOUTH CAIRO P. O., ^ rsRFENE CO N Y -^PP J* ., . . ^^^ post-office is next, door, and opposite is Mrs. C. L. Bassett's. Room for forty. $6 to $8. Georg-e Duncan's is next door to Mrs. Bassett's. Room for seventy. $6 to $8. 180 THE CATSKILLS. CATSKILL CRtEK HOUSE, SOUTH CAIRO. A. P. White, Propr etor Across the street is the hotel, the Malaeska House. Accommo- dations for one hundred. $1.50 per daj. $6 and S7 a week. G. B. Holcomb, Proprietor. The Catskill Creek House is at the other end of the villaj^e near the bridg-e, and the g-rounds extend along- the bank of the Catskill Creek. It is one mile from the station, from which guests are brought free of charge in the carriages belonging to the hotel, — with which a liverj is connected. There is a large and well shaded lawn with summer houses and swings, and croquet and tennis grounds, and the table is generously supplied with the best of fruit, vegetables and milk. Accommodations for fifty. $5 to $7 a week. A. P. White, Proprietor. O. A. Barlow's is next above White's. Room for sixty. $6. Mrs. E. Winne takes forty-five. Apply. Ira D. Vail's is a mile farther on. Room for thirty. Apply. Mrs. Wm. Earle's is out on the Gayhead road two miles from the station. Room for twenty-five. $5 to $7. Ira Finch is next to Mrs Earle's Room for thirty. Apply. M. F. Losee's is a mile further out toward Gayhead Room for thirty. S5 and S6. Phil Haines' Indian Ridge House is over on the Indian Ridge across the Creek, about five miles from the station. Room for forty- five. $5 to S7. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 181 South Cairo is seven miles from Catskill and is reached by stage or private conveyances, as well as by rail. Cairo is three miles farther by stag-e, over five miles by rail, and may be reached either way from Catskill. CAIRO. Cairo is a thrifty-looking- villag-e spread over quite a little terri- tory and yet compactly built for a country town. It is about twelve miles directly west of Athens and some 600 feet above the sea-level. There are not many boarders taken in the villag-e, but at Purling- (The Forg-e) a mile away, a g-reat multitude g^oes every season. But Cairo is a distributing- point and the depot yard is a mass of convey- ances about train time waiting- to carry the throng- by hundreds. Stag-es run from here to various points which will be noticed in their order. WALTERS'S HOTEL, CAIRO. N. Y. From the station we enter the main street in Cairo at Walters's Hotel, A. L. & F. G. Walters, Proprietors. This rural hostelry stands near to, and yet a little back from the main street, its broad piazza decorated with drapery of drooping- vines, a pretty and at- tractive exterior. Its homelike roof shelters over one hundred g-uests on demand, and it is often taxed to the uttermost to make all com- 182 THE CATSKILLS. fortable. Rates $2 per day. $6 to $10 per week. The eng-raving- was made three years agfo and does not g"ive an idea of the vines as they are at present. Turning- to the rig-ht on the main street past the hotel we go northward to a fork, the left hand road leading- to Acra, South Dur- ham, East Windham and so on to Windham, the rig-ht road leading- to Gayhead, Freehold and Greenville. On the latter road we reach H. B. Hoose's first, scarcely out of the villag-e. Room for thirty. $5. A little way beyond, the Freehold road turns off over the "White Bridg-e," so called because painted white. Keeping lon the Gayhead road we come shortly to A. Kliitz's " German Retreat." Room for forty. $6 to $8. Next beyond is Alec. Jerome's. Room for thirty. $6 to $8. Benj. Iliffe's is a mile away on the Sandy Plains road. Room for twenty. Apply. Returning- now to the fork we take the Windham road. Cross- ing- the bridg-e we come quickly to Chichester's Hotel, and Livery across the street. Accommodations for sixty. Apply. G. A. Mudg-e's is opposite the Fair Grounds, a little way up the hill. Room for twenty-five. $6. Mrs. A. White's is opposite the entrance to the Fair Grounds. Room for fifteen. Apply. Mrs. S. McMann's is a little farther, on the crest of the hill commanding- a fine view. Room for twenty. Apply. G. M. Rivenberg^'s Grand View Cottag-e is just beyond. Room for twenty. $6 to $8. Mrs. MacDonoug-h's Mountain View Cottag-e is a mile further. Room for eig-ht. Apply. Returning- to Walter's Hotel we may g-o the other way, — south- easterly, — down the main street. D. W. Jenning-s' Hotel is a few steps away. Room for one hundred. $2 per day. $7 to $10 a week. On the street which leads away from Jenning-s, and just opposite is'S. H. nine's. Room for one hundred. $7 to $10. Following- the main street out of the villag-e it becomes the Catskill turnpike, and just before reaching- the R. R. crossing we come to John A. Mower's. Room for forty. $6 to $7. A. S. Rouse's is just beyond the crossing-. Room for fifteen. Apply. Taking- the road to Purling-, which turns to the rig-ht just below PURLING P O ^^^ Jenning-s Hotel, we come to St. Elmo Park GREENE CO NY ^ little more than half a mile away. Room for one hundred. $7 to $10. Thos. Low, Proprietor. Here there is a fork in the road; the left hand leads to Palenville, FERRIS'S HANDBOOK. 183 BECKWITH HOUSE, PURLING. the rig-ht hand on to Purling-. Most of the houses here g"et their mail now at this new office, but some still send to Cairo, and these will be noted as they are mentioned. Entering- Purling- we come first upon Georg-e Dederick's Ever- green Grove House. Room for one hundred. $7 and $8. Chas. Dederick's Central View is next, the grounds being all open between and the whole expanse given over to guests. Room for fifty. $7 and $8. Chas. Paddock's is across the street. Room for fifteen. $6 and $7. Warren D. Smith at the Arlington has room for twenty-five. Apply. The Anderson House is at the next corner. It is a new house, this being its sixth season. It is located on high ground at the centre of the village with streets on three sides of it so that all rooms are front rooms. Broad piazzas run around the building. The house is intended for families and others seeking a homelike resting place. The table is generously supplied with all the delica- cies of the season, and pure mountain spring water only is used. A livery is run in connection with the house. Terms $6 to $8. Children under eight years, half price. Accommodations for fifty. Address J. H. Anderson, Purling, N. Y. Z. Beckwith's is next to and across the Palenville road from the Anderson House. It is built on a little bluff, with spacious grounds 184 THE CATSKILLS. about and a grove of pines in the rear, and commands a fine view of the rang-e of the Catskills for many miles. Spring- water is provided on every floor. Accommodations for sixty. Apply for terms. J. H. Stoddard's is a little way further on toward the bridg-e over the Shing^lekill. Room for seventy-five. 17 to $9. Crossing- the bridg^e we come to the larg-est souvenir works in the reg-ion. Eig-ht skilled turners are constantly employed desig-ning- and turning- native woods into tasteful forms to be carried home by visitors as souvenirs of their tarrying- awhile in this mountain forest. C. Whitcomb, who keeps the store and post-office a few steps farther up the street is the proprietor. Fred. Goodwin's is opposite Whitcomb's store. Room for forty. % to $8. C. C. Lock's Round Top View House is down the Palenville road half a mile from the Anderson House. It is near the Cairo Round Top, a pyramidal mountain detached from the rang-e and stand- ing- three miles from the others out in the lowlands. It is not hig-h as compared with the main group, but conspicuous from its isolated position. Room for forty. $6 to $8. Cairo P. O. Mrs. W. Salisbury takes ten. $6. G. P. Acker, at the falls, takes thirty. $7. Half a mile out from the villag-e is J. P. Dean, with room for fifteen at his farm house. $6. A mile out are these: — Columbia Hotel (H. K. Lyon). Room for one hundred and fifty. $8 to $10. Adelbert Lennon takes sixty. $8. Wm. J. Lennon takes twenty. $6 to $8. S. Merritt Jones takes sixty at the Round Top Farm House. $(> to no. Cairo P. O. A. W. Craw takes fifty. $6 and $7. Cairo P. O. Mrs. L. J. Chatterdon takes twenty. $6. H. C. Story takes forty. $5 to $8. Cairo P. O. Harrison Jones takes sixty. $6 to $8. Cairo P. O. Charles S. Johnson takes sixty. $6. Cairo P. O. Several houses are two miles distant. F. E. Miller takes forty. $6 to $8. C. M. Lennon takes forty. $6. Mrs. W. S. Lennon takes twenty. $6. Joseph Richards takes thirty-five. $6 to $8. Cairo P. O. J. S. Cochrane takes twenty-five. $5 to $7. J. B. Edg-erly takes thirty. $5 to $7. Cairo P. O. J. B. Richards takes twenty. $5 and $6. John H. Titus takes twenty-five. Apply. FERRIS S HANDBOOK. 185 L. H. Garrison takes fifty. $6 to $8. A. J. Lock, at the Maple Lawn House on the foot-hills, four miles from Cairo station, has two cottag-es beside the main house. Room for one hundred and fifty. $6 to $10. Cairo P. O. John Boice has room for thirty. $6. Cairo P. O. Shubal Finch takes twenty-five. $6. Cairo P. O. 186 THE CATSKII.I,S. H. B. Whitcomb's Winter Clove House is four miles from Pur- ling- on a plateau where the Winter Clove comes down. Here an ele- vation of nearly 1300 feet is secured and the views are fine and far reaching-. The grounds are extensive and the mountains close by with many pleasant rambles amid the trees and ledges. This local- ity is peculiarly free from dews owing to its position. The purest of mountain-spring water is conducted to the house and the table is abundantly supplied from the home farm. Rates $2 to $2.50 per day. ^8 to $12 a week. Special rates for June and September. References required from persons not known to the proprietor. Accommodations for one hundred and twenty-five. Mrs. J. P. Warner's is five miles from Cairo station on the moun- tain side. Room for twenty-five. $6. Cairo P. O. Returning now to Cairo let us look at some of the more distant resorts reached by the stage lines. One line runs to Prattsville, 25 miles away, passing through ACRA P O several villages. For Acra, three miles away, GREENE CO N Y ^^^^e are three stages daily during the season, excepting on Sunday. Fare 50 cents. At this place are several houses taking- boarders. Elevation about 750 feet N. B. Shaw takes twenty-five. $6. Mrs. M. W. Fiero takes fifteen. Apply. Mrs. A. Costello takes forty. $6. O. S. Allen takes thirty. $5 to $7. James Taylor takes twenty. $5 and $6. J. P. Lennon takes twenty-five. $6. A. Schermerhorn takes twenty. $6. John Stead takes thirty-five. $6. G. W. Cartwright takes forty. Apply. Orvin Carman takes twenty. $6. Georg-e Meddag-h takes twenty-five. $6, N. H. Noble takes ten. Apply. Next beyond Acra is South Durham three miles further. In this distance we climb about two hundred feet higher reaching an eleva- tion of 950 feet. Stage fare 75 cents. SOUTH DURHAM P. O. ^' ^'- Wagner keeps the Cold Spring^ GREENE CO N Y. Hotel. Room for thirty-five. $1.50 per day. $6 to $9 per week. Henry Bogardus keeps the Maple Grove House. Room for twenty. $6. L. H. Stone keeps the Grove Side Cottage. Room for seventy- five. $6. G. A. Sanford takes twenty-five. $6. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK 187 Georg-e L. Chenele takes eig-hty at " Shannondale." $6 to $8. J. V. Hulse takes sixty. $5 to $8. J. E. Francis takes twenty. $6. From South Durham the stage climbs the mountain to East Windham four miles away and from there three miles farther to Union Society ; one mile farther to Hensonville ; two miles more to Windham ; five miles more to Ashland ; four miles f ai ther to Pratts- ville. See Chapters XXVII and XXXIV. Another stag-e goes to Preston Hollow, seventeen miles away, passing- through Freehold, which has some boarding houses, five miles out from Cairo. P. J Curtis keeps the Clinton Farm House. GREENE CO N Y. ^^^^^ ^""'^ twenty. $5 and $6. Mrs. Isabella Feeney takes twenty. $7 to $8* M. H. Becker takes fifty. $6 to $8. Joseph Earl takes fifty. $7 to $10. J. B. Simmons takes twenty-five. $6. C. E. Van Norman keeps the hotel, — Lacy Hall. Accommoda- tions for seventy-five. $2 per day. $10 per week. John A. Parks takes thirty-five. $6 to $8. Frank Woodard takes fifteen. $6. Levi Seabridg-e takes thirty. $5 and $6. J. E Vincent takes thirty. $6 to $8. T. J. Slater takes forty. $5 to $7. C. L. Smith takes twenty. $5 and $6. Van Buren Powell takes fifteen. $5 and $6. Mrs. E. J. Smith takes twenty. $5 and $6 Albertus Becker takes twenty-five. $6. Mrs. C. Antus takes twenty. $5. De Alanson Haight takes twenty-five. |5 and $6. V. R. Russell takes twenty. $5. The stage, two miles farther, passes through East Durham, also a well known summer resort. Mrs. Geo. Osterhoudt, at Edgewood Falls, has room for sixty. EAST DURHAM P. O.. ^^ ^^^^- ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^ ^^ ^^^^^^ GREENE CO.. N. Y. j^^^i p^^^ $6 and $7. William A. Winans takes twenty. $6. M. Paddock takes thirty. $6. C. A. Schermerhorn takes twenty. $5 and $6. A. Van Tassell takes thirty at The Villa. $7. O. J. Murta takes fifteen. $6 and $7. , Mrs. F. C. Pennie takes fifteen. $6, C. H. Furry takes twenty. $6. 188 THE CATSKII.LS. Mrs. John W. Brooks takes sixty at Forest Echo. $6 and $7. A. I. Mackey takes twenty at Mt. Airy Farm. $6. D. H. Mackey takes twelve. $5. George Hedges takes thirty-five at his farm. $6. Henry C. Mace takes twenty. $6. S. M. Houg-h takes thirty at Maple Shade. $6. E. E. Nelson takes twenty. $6. Wm. C. White takes seventy at Locust Shade. $6 and $7. Mrs. J. M. Fanning- has room for twenty. $6 and $7. Mrs. E. L. Woodruff takes twenty-five. $5 and $6. John Steele takes ten at Zephyr Falls. Apply. Five miles beyond East Durham the stagfe passes throug-h Oak Hill, another resort. HILL p o Chas. Wrig-ht takes ten at Locust Shade. GREENE Co!. n! Y. $5 and $6. . , , W. H. Mulberry takes thirty. 16 and.|7. Niles Gifford takes twenty-five $5 to $7. Mrs. L. White takes thirty. $5 to $7. B. C. De Witt takes twenty-five. $7 to $10. Mrs. Delia Graham takes twenty-five. $7. Two miles from Oak Hill we reach Durham, fourteen miles from Cairo. Here are a few boarding--houses. DURHAM P. O., Horace Mabey takes twenty. $6. GREENE CO N Y J. H. Burhans takes thirty. $6. ■' ■ ' Mrs. F. J. Hurlburt takes fifty. $6. Georg-e Pratt takes ten at Sug-ar Grove Mountain House. $6. Sidney Crandall takes forty. $6 to $8. E. D. Elliott takes sixty at Shady Glen. $6 to $8. Mrs. M. Byboom takes twenty. $5 to $8. From here the stag-e goes on to Cooksburgh, Potters Hollow and Preston Hollow. Board can be obtained at these places though there are no houses where the matter of summer boarding is taken up as a business. ' At Cornwallville, three miles beyond South Durham, are several houses which should not be overlooked. CORNWALLVILLE P O ^- ^^^^^ & ^on take forty at the GREENE CO., N. Y.' "' Meadow Brook House. $6. Parks Bros, takes forty. |5 to $7. ^ Mrs. John Smith takes twenty-five. $7. Rachel Setford takes twenty. $5. L. H. Setford takes twenty. $5. J. W. Proper takes twenty. $5. C. Wetmore has room for twenty. $6. Mrs. O. W. Austin has room for twenty. $5. Piatt Hill takes twenty-five. $5 and $6. FERRIS'S HANDBOOK 189 Wm. V. Snyder takes fifteen. $6. Mrs. P. E. Strong- takes ten. $5. Arthur Drace takes ten at Brookside. $5. Ellsworth Strong- takes fifteen. $6. Mrs. J. M. Lawrence takes ten. $6. At Gayhead, which is four miles north of Cairo and the same distance east of Freehold, there are a number of boarding-houses, — some larg-e ones. GAYHEAD P O "^^^^ ^' '^^^^'^^ takes twenty-five. $5. GREENE CO. N.' Y "^ ' ^' ^^^^^^ takes thirty. $6 to $8. W. H. Lake takes ten. $6. R. W. Allerton takes twenty-five. $5. Mrs. J. B. Hallock takes twenty-five. $5 and $6. C. H. Wilkins takes forty. $5 and $6. Cyrus S. Powell takes ten. $6. Lester Hallock takes twenty-five at The Ethel. $6. Daniel Feeney keeps the Pine Grove House. Room for one hun- dred. $6 to $8. Mrs. J. Hallenbeck takes twenty. $5. There are a few houses open to summer boarders at Greenville, GREENVILLE p o three miles beyond Gayhead, seven miles from GREENE CO., N. Y. ^^.iro. Mrs. S E. Whitford takes fifteen. $6. V. R. Powell takes fifteen. $6 to $7. Griffin Shaw takes fifty at Mountain View. $6 to $8. Mrs. Wm. Irving- takes thirty at Shady Lawn. $5. Norton Hill is another resort in this section, about three miles westerly from Greenville, nine miles from Cairo. NORTON HILL P. O., W"^' ^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^""^^ ^^ ^'^^^ GREENE CO., N. Y. ^'^^- ^^\ . • . o J. W. Gardner takes eight at Sunnyside. $5 and 6. A. Moore takes twenty at Mercedes Farm. Apply. John Yeomans takes twenty-five. $5 and $6. G. A. Cunningham takes twenty at Cherry Hill. $5. David Griffin takes twelve at Mountain View. $5. G. A. Morrison takes twenty. $6 and $7. M. Cameron takes twenty-five at Maple Grove. $5. Sunside is two miles northerly from Acra and two miles easterly ^..K,r.,r^,r r, /^ from South Durham. SUNS DE P. O., ^ ^ ,^ ,, . i ^rx o^ __ ' ^ Geo. C, Mott takes fifteen $7. GREENE CO., N.Y. • ^^ . 1 ^r. *. Wm. Kennicutt takes fifteen. $6. W. J. Potter takes ten at Elm Shade. $6. Wm. D Mott takes fifty at Sunside Farm. $6 to $8. E. H. Utter takes twenty at Hillside Farm. $5 to $6. ^ FOR SALE LAKE AIOSKAWASTING AND SURROUNDING WOODLANDS. 500 ACRES OF WATER, North Lake^ at the Catskill Mountain House, covers but 33 acres* Kaaterskill Lake covers only 28 acres. 2,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA (Two hundred feet higher than the Catskill Lakes.) On Top of the Shawang:unk Mountains Adjoining the grounds of the hotels at Lake Minnewaska, and but three miles distant. The Lake is two miles long and half a mile wide and has FIVE MILES OF SHORE LINE available for cottages and hotels. Surrounded by 5,000 ACRES OF WOODLAND Which is full of natural curiosities, ravines, clefts, caverns, water- falls and cascades, cliffs and ledg-es. The tract abounds in fine timber and building- stone. Will be sold entire or in sections. For further particulars address : R. FERRIS, I \A/EST SMOkCAINi. IM. Y. R. W. Anderson & Son, Printers, Kingston, N. Y. Fine Photographs "Umt mnDscnrE woe n TOinLTi- VIEWS AND GROUPS, EXTERIORS AND INTERIORS, TEAMS AND TURNOUTS . MADE TO ORDER All the views iu tins book sive from })ljotoffraplis which cau be supplie* at the following rates : Small Size, 5 inches by 7 inches, or 5 inches by 8 inches, - - 25 cts. each Medium Size, 7 inches by 9 inches, or 7 inches by lo'^ inches, - 50 cts. each Large Size, n inches by 14 inches, ... $1.00 each These sizes give the size of the picture. The cards are larger. If t be sent by mail, enclose 4 cents iu stamjis for small size, 8 cents for medium size, 15 cents for large size. SAT/SFACT/OrJ GUARANTEED. D FrR 1^ I S /^R'l'IST PHOTOC.PAPMIlR. WEST SHOKAN. N. Y. t