JfEoifTiiEJNIL '^ - ■ ■ ' nV' ij nv' -o d ^^^^^^^^^H:' y'<<(!^^^f^^^B^^^K mm T-'.-:ip:^s^^ ^^^^^^r^SS^Klki^ ■'^'" j^^^^^B j^^^^^l ■Boi'-' ' ^^^K V f^^l^^^^^^^l^^B ^^^^^1 ^Br ' ^^■B^^H^iiJH ^B il,- ' ^^^^^K LIFE ON THE NILE IN A DAHABEEH AND EXCURSIONS ON SHORE BETWEEN CAIRO AND ASSOUAN ALSO A TOUR IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE IN 1866-67 BY -z- ^0 WILLIAM WILKINS WARREN THIRD EDIT 10 BOSTON LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS NEW YORK: CHARLES T. DILLINGHAM 188^ Copyright, 1S8S, By Lee and Shepard. University Press : John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS TO THE THIRD EDITION. Frequent inquiries having been made of the Author for his " Life on the Nile," as a guide in making a voyage on that famous river, and the second edition having been entirely distributed gra- tuitously by American bankers in Paris, according to his instructions, he has consented to have a third edition printed and published in the United States, and placed on sale, that those persons contemplat- ing making a Nile voyage, or taking an interest in reading a brief and concise description of one, with its necessary preparations, may have an opportunity of obtaining copies. The book has never been on sale before, nor could it be obtained, except from an American IV ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS. banker in Paris, some friend, or the Author him- self. Egypt has again come prominently before the world in her late struggle against foreign influ- ence and intervention. English domination will not probably change materially, if at all, the man- ner of making a voyage on the Nile in a Dahabeeh. The influence and establishment of courts for for- eigners before the late war, amply protected the traveller, and the occupation or withdrawal of the British troops will make no difference in this respect, at least to Americans visiting Egypt for their pleasure, who have always been welcomed and kindly treated by all classes of natives and of&cials with whom they have come in contact. The lapse of time since the Author and his party enjoyed their own experience will not essentially, it is believed, change the methods of making the voyage, though prices may have been increased, and a better class of boats introduced. Customs, habits, and manners of the natives in Egypt, as to a Nile voyage, undergo but little change, even in a generation. From among; numerous commendations of this ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS. V guidebook which have been received by the Author in letters from strangers to himself, v^^e make by his permission the following extracts, — John Taylor Johnstone, Esq., Ex-President of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, in a letter from New York dated July 5th, 1870, stating his experience of a Nile voyage, writes : " Having made much use of your little volume in a recent tour up the Nile and through the East, I feel as if 1 ought to express my obligations to you for the assistance derived from the same. An attentive perusal of it was the foundation laid for the trip, and on that I built. The book accompanied us, and was frequently referred to, and found to con- tain very much that was reliable, and in a most accessible form. The thanks of our party of five were unanimously voted to you, and I hasten to convey them before our pleasant memories are ob- scured by the rapidly occurring events of a busy American life. ... I intended to notify you of any errors we found in the book, but found nothing. Things don't change fast in that region." William Faxon, Esq., of Hartford, writes as fol- lows ; " Permit me to express my obligations for VI ADVERTISEMENT BY THE PUBLISHERS. your kindness in leaving with the bankers in Paris, for gratuitous distribution, copies of your ' Life on the Nile,' &c., which contained just the information I was in search of, and which I am not aware I could have elsewhere procured. It was of great value to me." J. A. Peters, Esq., writing from Cohasset to a friend, says : " The book gave us precisely the information we were anxious to possess." LEE AND SHEPARD. Boston, February, 1883. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. The First Edition of this little guide has been entirely distributed among those persons going up the Nile in Dahabeehs. Many — some of them entire strangers to the Author — having expressed an appreciation of its usefulness, and it still being called for by others desirous of trying "Boat Life in Egypt," this Second Edition has been ordered from the printers at Leip- sic for gratuitous distribution, as before, by the American bankers in Paris, among those who pro- pose to make the trip in a Dahab^eh. Time and circumstances will not allow a revision or alteration of these Letters as they first appeared ; but imperfect as they are, it is hoped they may be of practical value to those for whom they were in- tended. Six years have elapsed since the fresh ex- Vlll PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. perience of the Author was written ; but as changes are not many in Egypt or the Holy Land, it is believed there are none of sufficient consequence to render these pages less useful to the traveller than heretofore, in assisting him to enjoy Life on the Nile. WM. W. WARREN. Boston, 25 Kilby Street. May, 1873. PEEFATORY REMARKS. The following Record of a Nile Voyage is a re- production, with some alterations, of a series of Letters written on board a Dahabeeh, and published in the Boston Traveller. Many friends, and others personally known to me, about to visit Egypt, having expressed a desire to obtain a complete number of copies which it was found impossible to supply, and several requests made for a republication of them, I have had the complete series reprinted in this form for gratuitous distribution, and to them have added a transcript from my Journal of a subsequent tour in Syria and Palestine, with some additions in an Appendix. These Letters were written in a hurried and im- perfect manner, owing to the many occupations PREFATORY REMARKS. and enjoyments of the voyage. A practical use to others being the principal object of this little work, it is hoped its imperfections may be overlooked. Paris, October, 1867. WM. W. WARREN. ■^-"f^^jH^^, LETTER I. PRELIMINABY. WHEN TO VISIT EGYPT. THE EXPENSE. STEAMERS. LIFE ON A DAHABEEH. The experience of a late date of one's travel in Egypt, and voyage up the l^ile, I found to be so valuable and rarely met with in a detailed form, that I am impelled to give my own, fresh from the banks of the great river, with a view at least of being of some little service to those who intend making a winter's sojourn either for pleasure, health, or instruction, in this wondrous region. The information mostly needed is that which pertains to the preparation for, and manner, cost, and time of carrying through intelligently and successfully all the necessary details of a Nile voyage. There are several well-known guide-books and excellent popular works on Egypt, but they are nearly all about a decade old. Changes in the prices and comforts of a voyage have taken place in that time ; in the former, owing to the extensive and profitable cultivation of cotton during the American Rebellion, which expanded prices and unsettled values in Egypt. The comforts have increased, there being now a better class and choice of boats. I may be pardoned if, in the use of many dry details, I shall interweave in my letters, as our voyage progresses, 1 Z LETTER I. descriptive matter which, while it repeats the impressions of most of others who have of late years preceded me in the land of the Pharaohs, will interest, I trust, some readers. If the pictxire I draw should induce any of my countrymen or women to try two or three months of a winter here, and my notes should be of any service to them, I shall feel well repaid for this contribution. Two of the books alluded to above are the well-known " Murray's Handbook for Egypt," last edition published in 1858, and aboiit exhausted (a new edition has been issued in 1867 since our voyage commenced), and "The Austrian Lloyd's Handbook for Hgypt," published in Trieste, in German, French, and English, excellent, being an epitome of other guides and works up to 1858. With the necessary corrections and additions incident to the changes since that period, it would serve the purpose better than any I know of It should be remarked, how- ever, that it was published entirely in the interest of that great line of steamers, the Austrian Lloyd's, the rivals to some extent for passengers in the Mediteri'anean, to the line of the Messageries Imperiales. The other guide- books, published in English, are "Harper's" and " Brad- shaw." These two last, being more general, and not con- fined to Egypt, do not contain sufficient for the traveller's purpose. " Prime's Boat-Life in Egypt and Nubia," pub- lished in London and New York, 1857, is a most charm- ing book, as is also " The Crescent and the Cross," by Elliot Warburton, published in 1850. "Russel's Ancient and Modern Egypt " and " Wilkinson's Ancient Egyp- tians" should not be forgotten in the traveller's budget. The best time for seeing this country depends much PRELIMINARY. WHEN TO VISIT EGYPT. 6 on circumstances, but, under any, should be from 1st October (when the Nile recedes from its full height) to 1st April, when it ^ets too low, and contrary winds set in. The usual time is between the 1st of November and the 1st of March. If the traveller is an invalid, I should advise him not to postpone the commence- ment of a three months' voyage to Second Cataract beyond middle of November, so as to get far south enough to be beyond reach of the cool nights of Decem- ber and January in Lower Egypt, which in a Nile boat reduce the temperature often as low as 50 degrees toward morning till sunrise. The mei'cury rapidly rises by noon to 65° or 70°, where it remains till sunset, and slowly declines. There are no conveniences for stoves inside, but foot-warmers filled with hot water, and warm robes for an hour or two in the morning or very late in the evening will generally answer all purposes. A stove or vessel to burn coals would be a nuisance, with exces- sive heat, gas, and smoke. Nearly every one going to Egypt in a Dahaheeh spends most of his time on the Nile, either for health or pleasure, varying from two to four months. A trip to Syria and Palestine may easily be connected with and follow the one here, in which case it ought not to be undertaken by an invalid too soon, as the temperature in passing the mountains would be too low. If, therefore, the two trips should be undertaken in connection bi/ an invalid, he should by 15th November start on the voyage to Second Cataract, allowing 25 days for stoppages, which would occupy about 3 months. If only a voyage to the First Cataract is undertaken, I would advise to start not later than the 1st of December, 4: LETTER I. and have the option of a certain number of days in addi- tion to those specified in the contract, for stopping in the delicious climate of Upper Egypt, by agreeing to pay a certain price per diem. Those seeking pleasure only, can start for the First Cataract much later, according to their time and inclina- tion. Most of the fleet in 1866 left from December 20th to January 10th. The trip to Syria, if made from Alex- andria, instead of across the desert, should be commenced from 1st to the 15th of March, and will consume from 30 to 40 days. If that journey be omitted, the trip to Egypt may be made at a later date, especially if the voyage up the Nile should be abridged to the First Cataract. This is situated at Assouan, on the boundary between Upper Egypt and Nubia, and such a voyage embraces most of the interesting objects on the river for 578 miles above Cairo. Taking 20 days for stoppages, it can easily be accomplished in from 50 to 60 days. At the Second Cataract, 220 miles fui'ther up, the traveller will witness the great ruin of Aboo-Simbel, said to be second only in grandeur to the Theban ruins. The expense of living in Cairo or on a Nile boat is from 75 to 100 per cent greater than that laid down in the old guide-books. The hotels in Cairo now charge $4 a day, and other things in proportion. A voyage up the Nile for five or six persons will cost $6 to $7 a day, and for three or four about .f 9 each. This includes the hire of boat, crew, captain, steersman, cook, boy, and an additional cook and waiters for the party ; besides all provisions, except wines. It embraces also the wages THE EXPENSE. of the dragoman, and all the hire of donkeys, saddles, guides, guards, and even the backsheesh or gifts to all per- sons, including that to the crew, captain, sei'vants, &c. It is customary to put this into the contract with the drago- man, who provides the whole at a stated price by the month or the trip. As the cost of the boat, with her captain, crew, &c., and the dragoman, amounts to nearly as much for two or three as for a greater number of trav- ellers, it follows that the larger the number the less the expense to each one. The Nile boats for such parties are called Dahabeehs, varying in length from 70 to 90 feet and 13 to 15 broad, carrying a crew of from 10 to 14 to manage sails, row, tow, or push the boat. They are handsomely furnished with divans, tables, chairs, drapery, mirrors, pictures, bedding, linen, and a complete assort- ment of kitchen and table ware, silver, &c. They are constructed to carry from two to four persons each, com- fortably, though there are some now that will equally accommodate six to eight. The largest or heaviest cannot go over the First Cataract, which is nothing more than a succession of rapids, through which the boats are forced by means of ropes used by large gangs of men employed there for that purpose. As much of the pleasure of a Nile voyage depends upon the dispositions and harmony of the minds of those composing a family thus brought and held together for two or three months, it is well to form parties before com- ing to Egypt, but it is sometimes difficult among so few visitors to select just such companions as are most desira-. ble ; besides, if a party is arranged before arrival, an early selection of a dragoman and boat according to its mimber can be made. b LETTER I. It is proper to mention that Egyptian passenger steamers now make the trip of the Nile, from Cairo to Assouan and back, in twenty days, giving brief stoppages at certain places that they choose to fix upon. The cost is about £42 the trip, including meals. They are veiy comfortable, and are fitted up to accommodate about forty first-class passengers. Only those take them who wish to economize either time or money, for they do not allow time enough for the requisite sight-seeing, nor pro- vide sufficient donkeys, guides, saddles, &c. The charm of the life on a Nile boat is not to be met with in a steamer, or in any other way of locomotion. It consists of the traveller being a perfect monarch on his Dahabeeh, master of her movements, stopping when and where he pleases, with servants to do his bidding. If he is fond of sporting, myriads of wild fowl abound along the banks of the river. His boat has besides all the com- forts of a hotel, professed cooks that excite his wonder by the variety and quality of the dishes, served up by well- trained and painstaking servants. The air is balsamic, the skies clear, such as are only experienced in Egypt ; the climate a perpetual spring, without a drop of rain, while the insensible gliding of the boat along the stream invites to charming recreations in writing, drawing, reading, mu- sic, games, «tc. Such a home on the Nile, with its serene cheerfulness and freedom from all restraint, has a charm and novelty for its season without satiety. Cut off as it were from the world (except now and then meeting a friend afloat), business, politics, cares of all kinds, and everything but country and friends left behind, are for- gotten in the slow moving of the panorama of a world so LIFE ON A DAHABEEH. 7 full of wonder, containing the monuments of an age and people challenging the admiration of every beholder. The manner of preparing for and carrying out a Nile voyage, at the present time, will be developed in the course of the next letter. LETTER II. THE PARTY. — PREPARATIONS. VOYAGE TO AND ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA. OUR DRAGOMAN. SELECTION OF BOAT AT CAIRO. PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE. SIGHT- SEEING. Our party, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. C. H. L., Doctor H. R., and his sister, Miss E. R., together with myself and wife, all of Boston, was arranged in Paris shortly after our meeting together in that city towards the last of October, 1866. Eleven years before, the same party had travelled together in Italy, and enjoyed with each other the gondolas in the fair city of Venice. I also had, with the Doctor, just afterwards, made a pilgrimage to the East as far as the Black Sea, during the close of the Crimean war. Our mutual desires were to visit Egypt and the Holy Land together. Most of us had held this trip in reserve as the climax of our desires for travelling, the ultima Thule of our travels. Therefore, when meeting and receiving an invitation to join our old friends in this trip, I gladly postponed a winter in Algiers to be of a party of well-tried and congenial companions, so essential to the happiness and enjoyment of travelling. The only anticipated drawback was Mrs. W.'s aversion to 3000 THE PARTY. PREPARATIONS. 9 miles more of sea travel, such a distance from Paris and home, and fearful forebodings of the pests of Europe, to be found perhaps multiplied like the plagues of Egypt in Pharaoh's time. I may say in advance that those pests have diminished regularly since leaving the Mediter- ranean, going South ; and in this respect, as well as in many others, we have been happily disappointed. Having made preparations in Paris in the purchase of proper clothing, guide-books, maps, field-glasses, col- ored eye-glasses with wire protectors for the hot sun and desert sands of Egypt, medicines, pistols, two guns and sporting equipments, &c., we w^ent to Marseilles to embark for Alexandria in the steamer " Moeris," having engaged our passages and state-rooms in her a month previous at the bureau of the Messageries Imperiales. Before leaving, we had an American flag and our private signal streamer made for us. The latter was 30 feet long, red, white, and blue, with the initials of our party, R. W. L., and with three stars in a blue union. We supplied ourselves with a large quantity of ammunition fitted for our guns, suitable for the great variety and quantity of the feathered tribe abounding on the Nile, and some potted oysters, tomatoes, salmon, mince-meat for pies, all put up in America, and only found at John S. Martin's ship supply establishment at Marseilles. All other articles can be found at Alexandria or Cairo, which the dragoman for the Nile voyage furnishes by contract. The steamer left Nov. 29th, at the appointed time, with about forty first and as many second-class passen- gers. We found her very comfortable, with a large saloon on deck, more capacious than any of the Cunard 10 LETTER ir. steamers, there being no outside passage around it, the saloon and promenade deck taking up the whole width of the ship. Below there were state-rooms for 150 first and second-class passengers. She was about 3000 tons, and four hundred horse power, and had, like others of the line, a greater speed than the English. The style of cooking and service on board was French. The "Peninsu- lar and Oriental" line, however, has fine first-class steamers, and probably equally good in many respects. They stop at Malta, the French at Messina. The Italian line be- tween Brindisi on the Adriatic, and Alexandria, saving nearly half the sea travel, is well spoken of. In fact all these lines have some advantages and disadvantages, but neither is to be condemned as unworthy of patronage. After a somewhat rough passage of five and a half days, during which we touched for an hour at Messina, we arrived at Alexandria. Here we were boarded by numerous dragomans, guides, porters, boatmen, and others — rendering the deck a perfect Babel of tongues, among which that of the noisy Arabic prevailed. We engaged the services of one of the former, named Ahmed Rama- dan, to take us ashore and get our effects through the custom-house to the hotel. We found the Hotel Abbatt to be the best, though the Peninsular and Oriental is well recommended. I cannot say as much for the H6tel d'Europe. I shall not attempt to describe the novelties of this ancient mai't of commerce, founded by Alexander the Great, once the greatest commercial city in the world, and now the most thriving of Oriental ones. Pompey's Pillar and Cleopatra's Needle look down on a harbor filled with a hundred steamers, and from six to eight hundred ALEXANDRIA. — OUR DRAGOMAN. 1 1 sail of vessels, of all sizes and nationalities. The streets swarm with Egyptians, Arabs, Syrians, Tm'ks, and Greeks, in their native costume, with a sprinkling of Europeans, among which Italians prevail in numbers. Thousands of the little Egyptian donkeys, — on which are mounted, men, women, and children, — strings of camels, buffaloes harnessed to wagons, fine Arabian hoi'ses, — ridden by the military or government officers, — handsome European turn-outs, all sorts of street vendors, jugglers, monkey shows, snake-charmers, engage the wondering eyes of new comers, while they are beset by dragomans, guides, donkey-boys, porters, and beggars enough to drive one to desperation, and a rattan has to be freely used to get rid of some of the last-named pests of Egypt. We were harassed by dragomans at our hotel from morning till night, all anxious to have an opportunity to show their recommendations and obtain a chance for a tender of price for a Dahabeeh, or pleasure-boat, to the Cataract and back, either at a stated sum for the trip, or by the month, they furnishing everything even to paying beggars and all backsheesh during the voyage. Ahmed Ramadan, a young Egyptian dragoman, served us satisfactorily a couple of days as guide, and our first object was to look at the boats and get posted up be- foi'e going to Cairo, where there are a much greater num- ber and better class to choose from ; besides, the voyage generally commences from that city. Two days were de- voted to examination of boats and the merits of several dragomans, — Egyptian, Greek, Maltese, and Nubian. We were more favorably inclined to taking an Egyptian, as he comes in contact with his own countrymen, and gets 12 LETTER II. along better with them, especially the captain, crew, and servants of the Dahabeeh, who are geuei'ally Egyptians or Nubians. Being favorably impressed with Mohamed El Adli of Alexandria, a dragoman of long experience on the Nile and in Syria, with excellent recommendations, and of business-like character, we assented to his accompany- ing us to Cairo, conditionally, where we should make our final selection of dragoman and boat. We had previously got his price to take us in a first-class boat, such as we might select either in Alexandria or Cairo, to the Eirst Cataract on the border of Nubia, and back to Cairo, giving us twenty days of stoppages for sight-seeing and sporting. While at Alexandria, we called on our Consul-General, Hon. Charles Hale, who returned our visit, and gave us some valuable information, and kindly lent us quite a collection of books. We visited the excellent establish- ment of Ebenezer Thomas, to select English provisions and stores. On our arrival at Cairo, in 3^ hours by quick ti'ain, we found carriages and porters ready to convey us and the luggage to any of the hotels. The heavy parcels have to be taken on trucks, and it is best to have stores come by merchandise train. The Hotel des Ambassadeurs was chosen by the recommendation of a friend. It is small, but neatly kept, has an excellent table d'hote, and is situ- ated on the Usbekeeh. A new one was being built, which is greatly needed. The examination of boats was our first object, in order to secure the best one, there having been only three or four engaged. El Adli took us directly to the best, which we had heard of in Alexandria. Our trip being only to the First Cataract, and party large, we only SELECTION OP BOAT. 13 examined the largest of the Dahabeehs. The greater number of a size required to pass the Second Cataract, accommodating two to four persons, were omitted, and out of a dozen of the largest and best fitted up boats, we had no ditficulty in unanimously choosing the " Gazelle " as the best. She was built of iron, of great breadth of beam, with a large saloon, four state-rooms, and a small saloon in the stern, — the whole occupying about one half the length of the boat. She was very neatly painted and decorated, perfectly clean, very nicely furnished with divans, tables, chairs, large French mirrors, pictures, rich carpets, muslin curtains, drapery, and an excellent and full supply of dinner and kitchen ware, bed and table linen, silver ware, hanging and centre lamps, handsome plated candlesticks, &c. The closets, bath-room, water- filterer, pantry, and lastly, the kitchen on the bow of the boat, were all in excellent order. The quarter-deck was well supplied with divans, tables, chairs, &c. We found her measurement to be 75 feet in length by 16 1-2 feet broad, the saloon 14 by 13 1-2, state-rooms 7 by 6 and 6 1-2 by 5 feet, after-saloon nearly 12 feet square. She draws about 33 inches water, has the cabins sunk 28 inches below deck, the height of which is 6 1-2 feet. The gun- wale is 10 inches above deck and 28 inches out of water. She carries on a mast stepped well forward a large lateen sail, extending on a spar seventy-five feet in length, which is lashed to the head of the mast, and shifted forward of it. A smaller mast is stepped entirely aft of the helm or tiller, on which a similar sail, less than half the size of the foresail, is lashed in the same manner, and the sheet run throxigh a projecting boom in the stern. She 14 LETTER II. has 10 oars, and a crew consisting of the captain, 10 men, steersman, cook, and boy. There were other boats, larger and more profuse in gilding, satin, damask, &c., but none so pleasant and homelike as the "Gazelle." Time has proved our choice to have been a wise one, and our boat is acknowledged to be the best, and commands a higher price than any other. Some of the finest are the " Victoria," "Falcon," "Cleopatra," "Nightingale," "Zarifa," "Alice," "Memphis," "Marie Louise," and "Antoinette." On the third day after our arrival. El Adli, whom we had decided to take at his offer, secured the " Gazelle " at a deduction fi'om the asking price, £250 for the trip, and the contract was drawn up and signed in duplicate before the American Consul, as customary. Preparations were made to supply two months' provisions and various things necessary for the voyage. A list of all the usual things was made out ; we had only to say what we wanted in addition, and our dragoman was ready to furnish them, giving us no trouble about the matter. Most of his sup- plies he purchased in Cairo, but had to return to Alexan- dria, five hours' transit by railroad, for English butter and a few other articles. During the nine days after the contract was signed that we remained at our Hotel des Ambassadeurs, we were partly employed in sight-seeing in this great and truly Oriental city, and the rest of our spare time was spent in purchasing and arranging for our new home on the Nile for two months. A thirty-foot pennant being considered too short for our " Queen of the fleet " by our ambitious El Adli, we had another made for our great foresail peak, sixty feet in length, with two triangles, — one red, the PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE. 15 other white, in the form of a star, on a blue ground in the Union, also a Union Jack for our small boat. Sixty- four tin and glass lanterns, of different colors, were made for illuminations. Two brass ones, with colored glass globes, to hoist at the peaks, together with halyards, had to be purchased, the boat not having such. Suitable clothing for riding donkeys, hats with patent ventilators and muslin covers, white parasols to guard against the hot Egyptian sun, and various little articles from the bazaars, were almost daily found wanting and purchased. Last, but not least, we had to make a visit to our bankers, Tod, Rathbon, & Co., for funds to advance money, as per contract, to our dragoman, and for small silver Egyptian money to use up the river, and especially copper fractional parts of the piastre, absolutely necessary, there beiiig none to be obtained in Upper Egypt, and so scarce in Cairo as to command a premium of 40 per cent. Within two weeks from our engaging the "Gazelle," seven Dahabeehs were taken, five by Americans, the others by French and Euglish. The whole number will probably not exceed this season more than 30, — a small fleet in comparison to the number on the Nile six years ago, when there were on Christmas Day at Thebes 87 boats of different nations, and as many more on the river. The American war, high prices in Egypt, and particularly the cholera, attended with the vexatious quarantine, has greatly reduced travelling here, and the Dahabeehs have been used for freight boats. This renders them very filthy, and great care should be hadj if one is fitted up again for passengers, to have them sunk, and thoroughly renovated, painted, and varnished. There are now no 16 LETTER II. more than about eight regular passenger boats in Alexan- dria, and thirty in Cairo. About a dozen are now being built of iron and wood for next season, when, if no cholera visits Egypt, a great influx of travellers is expected. But Americans should be careful not to pay asking prices, which are already higher than the cost of labor and boats warrants. While waiting for our boat to be in readiness, we visited the Shoobra Gardens, and Marble Palace of Mehemet Ali, the Citadel, Palace of the Pasha, the new alabaster mosque, the mosque of Sultan Hassan and Tooloon, Old Cairo, Island of P^hoda, the Garden of Ibrahim Pasha, the Kilometer for measuring the rise and fall of the Nile, the Copt (Christian) and Jews' quarters, Greek Convent; the sepulchre of Mehemet Ali's family. Tombs of the Mam- looks, and the Turkish and Egyptian Bazaars, in addition to the European. In another letter I propose to give a copy of our con- tract, inventory of boat, her outfit and provisions, which from their novelty will not only be interesting, but may be of service. a: 3 <; iJ3 12 c o ~ O "S p^ ^ " -5. P-, rG '^ -4^ I cu ;^ CD - P - ^ = bJ ^ 'S CD be ^ .2 -TJ +; X! CD (D © ^ fe S S 'S S -c LETTEE III. CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. EXPLANATIONS. INVEN- TORY OP THE "gazelle." This letter will, I fear, be a very dry and uninteresting one ; but to some it may prove of advantage to know the form and substance of a contract with a Dragoman for a Nile voyage on a Dahabeeh. Our contract, verbatim, is as follows : — "This Indenture, of two parts, between C. H. L., W. "W. W., and H. R., of Boston, U. S. A., of the first part, and Mohamed El Adli, of Alexandria, Egypt, Dragoman, of the second part, wituesseth : " That in consideration of the sum of money hereinafter named, to be paid by the party of the first part to the party of the second part, the said El Adli agrees to fur- nish the party of the first part the iron Dahabeeh, or boat, called the 'Gazelle,' and a small boat, together with a crew of ten men, with a captain, steersman, cook, and boy ; also to furnish an extra first-class cook and two servants for the cabin. The boat to be properly fur- nished with everything for a first-class Dahabeeh that is necessary and useful for the comfort of the party, con- sisting of the above-named gentlemen, with Mrs. L., 2 18 LETTER III. Mrs. W., and Miss E,., for their exclusive use during the voyage. " Mohamed El Adli agrees to furnish also an abundance of all stores, provisions, candles, lights, &c., of the best quality, and everything, except wines and liquors, that is necessary for the comfort of first-class passengers, and also what is necessary for the others on board during the entire voyage. Also to provide three meals a day of as many courses as shall be required during the voyage. Also to have the clothes of the party and all the cabin linen washed, &c., as often as is necessary during the voyage. " Mohamed El Adli, under the foregoing conditions, agrees to take the aforesaid party, of six persons exclu- sively, to Assouan and back to Cairo, giving them twenty days' stoppages on the voyage at any place they may wish to stop, at such times as they may choose, provid- ing for them good donkeys, guides, guards, and saddles, while stopping and while remaining at any place during the voyage, and paying all the backsheesh and pres- ents that may be expected from them, except those to the captain and crew. [This was provided for by a sub- sequent agreement, by which we agreed to give our Drag- oman £20 additional, he paying them all such.] The time of such stoppages less than a day is to be computed and reckoned as parts of a day only, which is to consist of twelve hours daylight for each and every day of the twenty aforesaid. The times necessary for the boat to stop, on account of darkness or any other cause, shall not be reckoned as parts of the above-named twenty days. CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 19 " Moliamed El Adli further agrees that the boat shall have sufficient ballast to insure her safety, that the crew shall not leave the boat without the consent of the first party to this agreement, that said party shall have perfect control over the movements of the boat and crew, that when sailing, the sheet or rope attached to each sail shall be held or attended to at all times by one of the crew, that the decks shall be thoroughly washed and cleaned before eight o'clock each morning, and that the first party shall in no wise be held respon- sible for any damage to the boat or anything belonging to her during the voyage. The ' Gazelle ' to be equipped, and trip commenced from Cairo, within twelve days from the date of this contract. " In consideration of the faithful fulfilment of all the foregoing stipulations and agreements on the part of the said Mohamed El Adli, the said L., W., and E. will pay to the said El Adli the .sum of four hundred pounds (£400) in gold in the following manner : — Two hundred and sixty pounds in advance, and one hundred and forty pounds on return to Cairo, which sum shall be in full pay- ment for the ' Gazelle,' her crew, captain, cooks, servants, provisions, guides, guards, donkeys, saddles, bacTcskeesh, and every and all expenses of every kind which the said Dragoman El Adli has agreed to undertake in this con- tract, and including his own services. [We subsequently gave a gratuity of £30 additional for our Dragoman's too lavish outlay for us.] " Should the party aforesaid wish to extend the time beyond the twenty days, they shall have the privilege of doing so, by paying all expenses of boat, crew, living, 20 LETTER III. &c., as before named, the sum of seven pounds, ten shil- lings foi* each and every day, the time to be computed as before mentioned. " In case of any disagreement between the parties to this contract, the whole matter shall be referred to the arbitrament of the American Consul-General at Alexan- dria, and his decision shall be final. "Witness our hands this 11th day of December, 1866, at Cairo. " (Signed) W. W. W., for self and party. , MoHAMED El Adli. Seal. Seen at the Consulate of the U. S. A., Seal of the Consulate of U. S. A. at Cairo, Egypt, for the legaliza- tion of the signature of W. W. W. and the seal of Mohamed El Adli, Cairo, Dec. 11th, 1866. " For the Consul, Felix Walmass." The contracts should be always made and signed in duplicate, and the signatures attested at the Consulate. The foregoing is perhaps needlessly lengthy, and might be abridged to serve every legal purpose. Should the traveller wish to go to the Second Cataract, a clause should be added, giving him the privilege of so doing at a given sum or rate, with number of days' stoppages. It generally takes a month longer, with 10 days to stop, and costs about the proportion of the first voyage. The expense of taking the boat up the Cataract is included. This, with the risk, is usually borne by the owner of the boat, who lets it to the Dragoman with that stipulation. CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 21 It is generally better to engage by the trip instead of by the day or month. In the former case, all the men are hired by the trip, and do not cause those vexatious delays which a per diem contract tempts many a crew and Dragoman to make, especially if a profitable one. We subsequently made an agreement with El Adli to pay him additionally (£20) twenty pounds for all the hach- sheesh to the captain, crew, cooks, waiters, in going up, re- turning, and after arrival back at Cairo, as we did not wish to have the trouble of paying them, as customary, about twenty times, if they do well ; and it is said they are pretty sure not to do so unless they are liberally paid this backsheesh, or presents, on arriving at one of the principal large towns. As we knew El Adli was liberal to a fault, we felt assured he would pay it all faithfully. "We shall see, however, and be able to give the result. No doubt much trouble is experienced by being too parsi- monious with a class of men who must be either driven with the whip, or won over to work well by that old- established custom of backsheesh, which the Orientals of all classes are so clamorous for. The " Gazelle " being superior to any other, and of iron, a higher, and, it seems, an exorbitant price was paid for her by El Adli, viz. £220 for the voyage, and 20 days' stoppages, including, of course, her complement of cap- tain, crew, &c. This price from the owner, contrary to the general usage, did not include the backsheesh to the crew and captain on their return. Prices of boats have greatly increased the last few years, and it is hoped that travellers will not too readily submit to unreasonable demands. Our boat had an excellent and full assortment 22 LETTER III. of china, glass, and kitchen ware, electro-plate,' bedding, curtains, bed and table linen, — in fact, all the comfort and conveniences enjoyed at home for eating. The fol- lowing is a copy of her inventory, placed in our hands by her owner. INVENTORY OP THE "GAZELLE." 16 pairs muslin curtains — saloon-door curtain — 4 pictures, village scenes, in frames — 2 large French mir- rors, plates 32 X 48 inches — 2 divans with 6 pillows — 2 taborets with covers — 1 large mahogany centre-table — 6 dining-chairs — 1 small round table — 3 state-room chairs — 6 small mirrors — after-saloon divans — saloon book-shelves — French lamp {regulateur) — 1 hanging- lamp — 3 large Wilton and Brussels carpets — 1 velvet table-cover — 6 rugs — 2 deck divans — 1 folding-chair — 4 common deck chairs. ELECTRO-PLATE. 1 teapot — 1 coffee-pot— 1 su- gar-dish — 1 milk-pitcher — 2 candlesticks with glass shades — 5 bedz'oom candlesticks — 1 dozen each of table, dessert, and tea spoons — 1 dozen each large and small table-forks — 2 gravy-spoons — 1 soup-ladle, sugar- tongs, mustard and salt spoons — 6 egg-spoons — 1 set castors with 6 bottles — 2 salt-dishes. LINEN, &c. 24 sheets — 30 pillow-cases — 12 blankets — 6 counterpanes — 30 towels — 24 table-napkins — 6 tablecloths — 12 kitchen-towels — 6 grass -cloth towels — 6 mosquito-curtains, mattrasses and pillows — 5 china toilet services of 25 pieces. TABLE WARE. 1 dinner service and 1 breakfast service, consisting of 107 pieces — 4 decanters — 12 turn- INVENTORY OF THE "GAZELLE." 23 biers — 16 wine and 12 champagne glasses — 12 dinner- knives — 12 dessert-knives — 2 cai-vers and forks — 1 steel — 2 nutcrackers — 1 corkscrew — 1 butter-dish — 1 sherbet-mug and stand -^ 1 jam stand — 2 glass salts. KITCHEN WARE. 1 bread-board and knife — 7 cooking pans — 1 brass pestle and mortar — 1 marble mortar — 1 meat-chopper — 1 copper can — 1 teakettle — 2 frying-pans — 3 oven-pans — egg-beater- — skimming- ladle — 2 pudding-moulds — 3 rolling-pins — 6 bread- moulds — iron basin, gridiron, milk-can, coffee-pots, water- tins, dustpan, large copper basin, foottub, large knife, tea-tray, brass tray — 3 small trays — 3 lanterns — 3 flatirons — 1 filterer. The list of articles of food to furnish our table, which will be found in the Appendix, embraces nearly all usually furnished, except those obtained by our Dragoman on our voyage on the river, such as milk, fruit, vegetables, &c. Fresh mutton, poultry, eggs, but not beef, are added also as wanted. It is hoped my future letters will be more intei-esting, embracing, as they will, the daily experience of this ex- traordinary voyage on this highway of the beautiful valley once peopled by the hosts of Pharaoh and the children of Israel, — the land loved and won by Alex- ander the Great, the home of Cleopatra, whose " hearth- stones," laid years before the advent of our Saviour, are yet to be seen, surrounded by gigantic walls and columns that have defied the ravages of time and the hand of ruthless man. LETTER IV. EMBARKING FOR THE VOYAGE. OUR FIRST DAY ON BOARD THE " GAZELLE." AN EVENING SCENE AT ANCHOR AT BOULAK. NO WIND. VISIT TO CAIRO. — VISITORS ON BOARD. CHRISTMAS EVE, A RIDDLE. My last letter was maiuly devoted to giving an exact copy of our Nile voyage contract, the concluding of which was an agi'eeable event. It was still more pleasant to the " R. W. L." party when the 20th of December came, with its bright sky, and the thermometer from 65° to 70° in- doors, without fires, there being no place in the room at our hotel for one, even if needed. This was the day our indefatigable Dragoman had engaged to be in readiness to commence our voyage. El Adli came the evening before to announce that all was prepared for the morning, and it found us ready, with our luggage divided, it being necessary to economize room, and leave every superfluous thing behind in charge of our bankers in Cairo. Among those to whom we bid adieu on leaving the Hotel des Ambassadeurs for our Dahab^eh, were Mr. and Mrs. Hiram Hitchcock, of 5th Avenue Hotel, New York, who were about making arrangements for a party to the Sec- ond Cataract on a three months' voyage. While hi^ mul- titude of friends in every part of the United States will FIRST DAY ON BOARD. 25 miss his genial face, and an accomplished and popular landlord, tliey will be glad to learn that the main object of his visit here, the restoration of his health, is in a fair way of being gained by a winter on the Nile. He has already mnch improved, and as he carries a good rifle, his table will not want for that important course to epicures, game, so abundant on this river. Before going on board, we made a last and important call at our bankers, to get a supply of small silver change in Egyptian money to use in Upper Egypt, where it is scarce. We had laid in a good supply of copper piastres at about forty per cent premium, to use there, as none can be bought, and among the com- mon people it is not only advantageous, but absolutely indispensable. On arriving at our future home, lying at the shore of Boulak, we were received on board the " Gazelle " by our Dragoman, the Reis (captain), crew, and servants, with some formality, but M^elcomed in a very respectful and pleasant manner. All were neatly dressed in their native Egyptian costume. El Adli in his fine cloth suit of bright brown, consisting of full trousers, vest and jacket, a rich, gay silk Damascus scarf around his waist, and one still more so wound around his fez or tabouche. The wait- ers, Mahomed and Abouzed, already had the table set for the four-o'clock dinner. Everything appeared truly Ori- ental, except our saloon and table. They looked so cheer- ful and Parisian, that we felt at home at once. We sat down to the best dinner we had eaten since we left Paris. The quality and style of the cooking, the neatness and taste displayed, relieved us of any anxiety regarding the merits of our cook and waiters. I may for once be par- 26 LETTER IV. doned for giving our bill of fare, which was only an ordi- nary one. Pea-soup, boiled fish garnished with parsley, roast mutton, pigeon-pie, roast turkey, mashed potatoes, cauliflower salad, apple-tart, stewed apricots, oranges, ba- nanas, pears from France, nuts, dried fruits, and coffee. Our cook — Achmet Shaheen — is second to none on the Nile, has cooked for some of the English nobility, and is very neat, prompt, and good-natured, strictly temperate in abstaining alike with all the crew, captain, servants, and Dragoman, from intoxicating drinks. Native cooks and servants for a Nile voyage are well educated in their vocation, very attentive, and excel those of the same class we have in America. They generally speak a few words of either English, French, or Italian. After dinner and tea, we arranged our state-rooms, which we had mutually assigned to each as equitably as possible, and as there was no wind, we slept quietly by the shore of Boulak, amidst a crowd of Dahabeehs packed in on each side of us. The sun rose bright and clear, but our starry flag and gay pennons hung lazily at the masts. Our first breakfast we enjoyed much. It consisted of nice Mocha cofiee, the best bread and butter we had eaten for a long time, honey, three courses of meat, fruit, &c. Soon after, we had a call from some American friends, and then took carriages to the city to make some purchases at the bazaars. On our return to Boulak, the "Gazelle" was moored in the stream, ready to take advantage of the first fair wind. It requires a good breeze abeam or aft to stem the three-mile-an-hour current where there is no tow-path, nor channel to push the boat. The Dragomans do not employ tow-boats, but keep the passengers until, to use SECOND EVENING ON THE NILE, 27 El Adli's expression, " the good God send us a fair wind." This seems strange, as a half-dozen miles up the river is a tow-path, which, when reached, the men can " track," as they call it here. When no wind, they can make nearly two miles an hour. Out of a crew of ten men, eight are harnessed to the track rope, the rest being retained on board. The second evening of our life upon the Nile was lovely beyond description. Our ten men, neatly dressed in a dark loose robe and white trousers, with red and white turbans, were seated in a circle playing on drums and tambourine an accompaniment to their peculiar plaintive Arab songs. Our Dragoman, the reis, steersman, cooks, and boy, were grouped around them on the deck, the lan- terns under the awning lighting up the dusky counte- nances of the crew that we were studying to remember. On the cabin, or upper deck, no lights disturbed the beauty of a full moonlight scene, save those twinkling faintly in the distant palaces. Another morning found us still at our moorings, with a light head wind, so after breakfast we took a stroll ashore, meeting some American friends canvassing the merits of different boats. Again to the bazaars, finding each day some little wants to provide for. Drawing-books, blank books, stationery, tea, and ginger cakes were added to our stock, fearing to come short if many tea-parties ai-e given up the river. The evening was passed in oiir home circle with games of backgammon and whist. The morrow was looked for with some interest, as we expected the pleasure of a visit from our Consul-General, Hon. Charles Hale, who was on a visit here from Alexandria with the captain 28 LETTER IV. and officers of the U. S. S. " Swatara." This frigate had been telegraphed for by Mr. Hale, to take charge of his prisoner, young Surratt, who had been arrested by him there. The following day, being still at anchor, with the wind light from the S. S. W., I took a donkey and rode to Cairo. Boulak is a large commercial suburb, and the port of Cairo, with 5,000 inhabitants. It is under the same governor or pacha as Cairo, and has large foundries, machine-shops, locomotive works, sugar-mills, and other Government buildings, including the new and unrivalled Egyptian Museum of Antiquities. The distance is about two miles from New, and about foixr from Old Cairo. But to continue. My ride was the same interesting one I had taken before several times. I had to thread m}'' way, as- sisted by the donkey attendant, through throngs of the Oriental human species, strings of camels carrying lum- ber, building-stone, and every kind of merchandise, and men, women, and children mounted on the little and ex- ceedingly strong and docile Egyptian donkey. The streets on the way are lined with vendors of all kinds of fruits, vegetables, merchandise, &c., conspicuous among which are those selling fresh, luscious sugar-cane in lengths of six to eight feet. I alighted at our hotel to find the Con- sul-General and the officers at the twelve-o'clock breakfast. As they were to visit the Museum before calling on us, by the recommendation of Mr. Hale I concluded to follow their example, and would urge all travellers not to omit doing so. It is a fine building, situated on the river bank, with a garden, court of statuary, and lai'ge pieces of an- tiquity. The interior has marble floors and highly deco- VISITORS ON BOARD. 29 rated ceilings. Handsome inlaid cabinets and glass cases are placed in excellent order around the different apart- ments, their contents all classified and numbered, to cor- respond with a large catalogue published in French in 1864, and containing 917 described articles of antiquity, the greater part from 3,000 to 4,000 years old, embracing jewelry, household gods, vases, statuettes, implements of every kind of use, even to a comb with the original dirt and grease of the hair adhering to it, dice as old as Moses, showing the truth of Solomon, that "there is nothing new under the sun," which applies to Egypt, where the same kinds of tools and implements, the same customs, prevail now as in Pharaoh's time. There are as many more articles not in catalogue. The exhibition is free to all foreigners, without ticket or remuneration, from 8 to 5 in summer, and 9 to 4 in winter, except Friday, the Mohammedan sabbath. The Museum is the sole property of the Viceroy, at whose expense it was built at an enormous sum. After their visit, the Consul-General, with Commander Jeffers and eight of the officers of the " Swatara," came to our landing, and were taken on board by small boat, under our new Union Jack in the " stern sheets." Our flag was lowered in salute as they came alongside, and were received by our entire party. After a spirited con- versation, in which the ladies had a full share, we showed them over our rooms, ours being the first Nile boat the officers had seen. They expressed much surprise at the comfort and luxury visible ; and after a lunch", includ- ing New York oysters, and champagne of Moet and Chandon's vintage, they left, to take a drive to the Shoobra Gardens. 30 LETTER IV. The next day, there being no breeze, was devoted to another visit to the Museum. Just before night, a slight indication of a fair wind caused a sudden stir on deck and striking of awnings, but it died away into a calm and beautiful eve. An English boat, the " Zarifa," had hauled out astern of us and anchored, ready to start. No Christmas Eve revel disturbed the quiet of our night. Some lines composed by one of the ladies of our party, read to us in the evening, and transcribed to my Journal, I take the liberty of appending to this closing part of my letter,' ANTICIPATORY. Awake! my muse, awake! and tell The wondrous fortunes that befell The party gay " R. W. L.," When leaving Cairo's city fair, The storied city, rich and rare, And marvellous beyond compare. Borne by the light and swift " Gazelle," They boldly stemmed the rushing tide Of ancient Nile's majestic river. As up the mighty stream they glide. The myriad sunbeams dance and quiver, Reflected in the ripples bright That mark their vessel's path with light. A RIDDLE, 31 High beat their hearts with hope elate ; No fear have they of adverse fate ; For joyful they recall the day, When, by the sunset's crimson ray, They first beheld in all its glory This stream so famed in classic story. 'T was when they stepped from ofE the beach Into the tiny skiff, which bore them O'er waters shoal their bark to reach, The very heavens seemed op'ning o'er them. Dian's pale crescent shone on high, The bow of promise spanned the sky. Oh, deem them not presumptuous grown. That, as they gazed, these words were spoken. Breathed forth in low and reverent tone : " This is of love divine the token! This is the very smile of Heaven ! Commence we then our pilgrimage, Believing in the kind presage : Remembering this auspicious even." One thing alone their souls sore vexed: A riddle had their brains perplexed. In Alexander's ancient city, Renowned for all that 's wise and witty, That quaint device which there abounded. Might not its hidden lore be sounded ? 'T were sad to tell of all their wrangles About the two combined triangles. " 'Tis Euclid's emblem," quoth the scholar. "No! " said his friend, with well-feigned choler, " 'T is of Freemasonry the sign! I '11 pledge you to 't in sparkling wine." The strife wax'd high. At length " Eureka! " Burst from the lips of a third seeker. 32 LETTER IV. " Behold, O friends! behold with pride! Of us these ancients prophesied. As these six angles interlace, Each perfect in its form and place. Combining thus to form a star, So we six happy mortals are, Uniting in harmonious whole. Fill high, fill high the flowing bowl! And now let 's choose as our device, Ceasing henceforth from all vain jangles, These signs which grandly took their rise In times of eld; these two triangles." Thus gayly chatted they awhile, Then slept and dreamed upon the Nile. LETTER V. CHRISTMAS. HEAD WIND. VISITORS TO DINE. A DECK SCENE. EXCURSION TO HELIOPOLIS. FAIR WIND. THE "gazelle" LEAVES BOULAK. AN EVENING ADVEN- TURE. THE START ON THE VOYAGE. SCENES ON THE RIVER. GAME. STUCK PAST ON A SAND-BAR. A RACE WITH THE " ZARIFA." A WALK ON SHORE. HEAD WIND. ARRIVAL AT BENISOEF. My fifth letter leaves us still at our moorings at Bou- lak, waiting for a fair wind, and I continue my narrative of life on this river, and excursions ashore, commencing with Christmas morning. Our flag and pennants floated to a slight breeze which came down the river. Every- thing betokened around us a perfect ignorance of the day, except that a salute was fired on our deck from our double-barrel fowling-pieces, revolvers, and rifles. Among the numerous craft ai-ound us, only two flags were visible, those of the " Nightingale," taken by Mr. Hitchcock, mentioned in a preceding letter, and the "Zarifa," under English colors. All of our party again visited Cairo, while I, mounted on " Mahomet Jack," attended by a sprightly and enter- taining donkey-boy named Amine, rode to the Hotel des Ambassadeurs to invite our friends Mr. and Mrs. Hrtch- 3 34 LETTER V. cock on board to dine, there being no prospect of a fair wind. They came, and at half-past three we all sat down to a " Merry Christmas " dinner, got up in Achmet Shaheen's best style. Among the good things were roast turkey, plum-pudding, an elaborate cake, with sweetmeats, almonds, &c., that would not have done dis- credit to a professional confectioner. After the toasts, songs, conundrums, and stories were over, our Dragoman, El Adli, invited us on deck to see the illuminations from our 60 variegated colored lan- terns, tastefully displayed. The Arab crew, who had enlivened the scene with songs, accompanied by their drums and tambourines, were ranged on the upper deck to receive us, and at the word of command from El Adli, they gave us three rousing cheers in good English style, which we returned, and then they retired to their quarters on the forward deck. After an hour of games of " squalls," our friends left, to meet us again some- where up the Nile. The next day was clear as usual, with a slight head wind, light as a zephyr. Determined not to lose time, but to visit Heliopolis, we left in can-iages at 11 a. m., passing through Boulak to the east, thence across a sandy plain, relieved only by immense Government buildings, among them a very large one, surrounded by high walls, and flanked with towers and extensive bar- racks, for the city garrison, which amounts to about 10,000 men. There were, farther on, steam works for raising water from the Nile for irrigation and other pur- poses, and buildings connected with the railroad to Suez. The scene again changed, and we entered upon a fertile EXCURSION TO HELIOPOLIS. 35 plain on an excellent road, lined with flourishing acacia- trees, an avenue leading to a handsome modern-biiilt mansion. Here were seen on either side pretty gardens, fields of corn, wheat, cotton, sugar-cane, and clover, or- chards of lime and orange trees in full bearing, the prickly-pear (an enormous tree of the cactus species, raised for producing cochineal for exportation), grape- vines, and pomegranate-trees. Everything looked fresh, and intensely green, owing to the artificial watering from the Nile necessarily practised all through the great valley of Egypt, where rain is scarcely ever seen. Passing the mud-built village of Matarieh by devious turns through fields, after alighting from our carriages we arrived at the obelisk of red granite, covered with hiero- glyphics from top to base. It is 68 feet high, 6 of which are below the present surface of the ground, now a hol- low, but once an elevated mound, and the only remain- ing relic of Heliopolis. This city was the oldest in Egypt, and is the " On " mentioned in the Bible. It was the school of Herodotus, Plato, and Dionysius. We visited the great perennial sycamore-tree under whose shadow the Holy Family is said to have rested ; also the well by which sat Mary when she fled hither with the infant Jesus. Whether true or not, the tree, or rather the roots, are of an in- credible age, undoubtedly from the fact that, century after century, it appears to be renewed by new shoots, succeeding the decaying trunk. The present one is an irregular bunch of trunks grown together, of a diameter of about ten feet, with comparatively a scanty foliage on its huge limbs. 36 LETTER V. On returning towards Cairo, we observed a slight change of wind ; but the ladies wishing a few more articles, deter- mined us to drive to Cairo and visit the bazaars once more. Having completed our purchases, we drove to Boulak, and on arriving at our landing-place, the "Gazelle" was gone. It was getting late, and we had a drive of five miles before us. The coachmen said the horses were too tired to go on. We were miles away from any other car- riages, but we overcame their scruples with half the sum they charged, and rattled along towards Old Cairo at a more rapid pace than ever. Arriving at the point agreed upon in the morning, no boat or " Gazelle " was to be seen. The sun had sunk behind the shores of Ghizeh and the Pyramids, and dark- ness came on rapidly, with no twilight intervening, and the moon not risen. We were in a quandary. Should we go in search of our boat on the river, or drive to an hotel at Cairo in the dark, three miles distant 1 We chose the former. A crowd of native boatmen were anxious to convey us. In the midst of negotiations with these clamorous and noisy men, a colored signal-light suddenly appeared on the opposite shore. We waited, but no small boat came, neither answer to my shrill whistle. Negotiations were renewed, and prices of the rapacious boatmen sud- denly fell, when I observed with the aid of my glass a dark object on the river with a light. I again blew my Avhistle, and received a reply. Soon El Adli in a small boat with two men landed. The disappointed boatmen were noisy and troublesome at our departure, and we were glad to end the adventure and be once more at home on the "Gazelle," which lay by the shore for the night. SCENES ON THE RIVER. 37 The morning was clear and calm, with thermometer at 60° at sunrise. A slight fair wind soon set in, and in company with the "Zarifa," which had followed from Boulak, we hoisted sail at 8 a. m. ; a salute was fired, and we really commenced our Nile voyage, after having been wind-bound a week. The sailing qualities of the respective boats were tested, and found to be nearly equal with a light breeze, but as it freshened towards night, we beat the other "by several miles. During the night, we passed the barracks of the black regiments of the Viceroy, and on the banks of the river 300 Africans, naked, except a strip of cloth around their loins, were washing their white canvas shirts, trousers, and jackets, trimmed with orange-colored braid, which constitute the uniform of the infantry. Next day being Friday, the Moslem sabbath, explained the washing day. These men are brought by the river from the interior of Africa. They have their heads shaved, and wear the fez, like all Egyptians, dispensing with Nature's covering. The river was crowded with freight-boats of all sizes, bound up, having waited for the fair wind. The next day was very cold for Egypt, even in winter, the mercury standing at 46° at sunrise, but rapidly rose as the burning rays of the sun increased, and reached 75° at noon. I intend keeping a daily record of the temper- ature during our voyage, and will at its termination give the result. We had passed in the night, so our Drago- man informed us, no less than 300 sail of vessels. A bright moon rendered the navigation easy, and our swift " Gazelle " distanced them all. The false Pyramid of Rigga was now in sight (the others were passed yester- 38 LETTER V. day), and we were half way to Benisoef, one of the eight principal cities on the river at which passenger boats usually stop. Great quantities of pelicans, cranes, ducks, and geese were seen on the sand-bars, which tempted us to take the small boat and have a shot at them ; but we found our double-barrels did not carry far enough, being only 16 calibre, when they should have been French number 12. We regret not having brought a modem rifle. Formerly, these birds were easily reached ; but Lord Landsborough, who made a voyage up the Nile on a foolish sporting, or rather slaughtering, expedition, to see how many head of game he could kill, brought a small swivel, which was charged with balls and shot, and when mounted on a small boat, made tremendous havoc among the ducks and geese which swarm the sand-bars. It is said they are more timid since. His lordship, however, made a marvellous count, and his exploits at shooting no doubt have made him famous in sporting circles. Pigeons, of which there were many, were easily reached with our pieces, but we did not wish to lose the fair wind, and abandoned the sport. The " Gazelle " stuck fast on a sand-bar, and we were detained three hours, after which, the wind dying away, we stopped at night twenty-five miles from Benisoef. The morning came with a light fair wind, disclosing the " Zarifa " in sight astern. An exciting race followed, which continued during the day with varied fortunes. As the wind died away, the crews strained every nerve at pushing with their long poles, singing and shouting. An Egyptian passenger steamer was passed on her return trip, and friends saluted on board of her that we had parted with on their leaving Cairo, the 10th December. HEAD WIND. ARRIVAL AT BENISOEF. 39 The crews of the " Gazelle " and " Zarifa " (ours having the lead) commenced to track or tow, givuig us the wished-for opportunity to land for a walk. Here we saw fields of corn and wheat, villages with their groves of palm-trees in the distance over the prairie-like valley, the railroad in course of construction from Cairo to Sioot, camels travelling on the highway along the river, and other objects of interest. The sun was hot, and flies somewhat troublesome ; but we were amply repaid by the exercise taken. There being no breeze, both boats had to tie up for the night, only five miles from the city. A head wind prevailed the next day, a part of which we remained by the bank, giving us the opportunity of a chat with the two English gentlemen of the " Zarifa." A sugar-cane pedler with his camel loaded came to us, and we and the crew discussed the merits of the lus- cious saccharine stick. Some fish were caught by our waiters and served upon our table, but I cannot say they equal those of Boston Bay. A delightful walk ashore was indulged in through fields of beans which extended over a hundred acres. They were in full blossom, and a sprinkling of the sweet-pea among them made the air redolent with perfume. Un- like the beans cultivated in America, they grow on stout stalks two or three feet high, with large clusters of variegated blossoms. About noon, the crew commenced "pushing," and at five, both boats i-eached Benisoef, where we stepped ashore and took a walk through the town. It appeared curious to us, with its narrow, crooked, covered, and gloomy passages. Unexpectedly, we came to a sign of the 40 LETTER V. United States Consulate Agency, at the door of which stood our reiDresentative, Narsala Loga, an Egyptian, who speaks only Arabic. He invited lis to walk in and take coffee, our Dragoman acting as interpreter. We spent a half hour, after which he accepted an invitation to visit our Dahabeeh, returned with us, and was entertained with wine, tea, cakes, and music on the flute, by Doctor R. He is one of several appointed by Consul-General Hale, is a wealthy merchant of Cairo, belongs to the American church there, has a large plantation near Ben- isoef, and remains there only about four months in winter to attend to the wants of American travellers, giving them the necessary protection if needed, settling disputes, &c., all without any pay, except such presents as may be given him. But he has the honor and advan- tage of the office, which has influence with the Government officers. We remained " tied up " at the landing for the night, and my next will commence with our departure and continuation of the voyage. LETTER VI. u LEAVE BENISOEP. AN EVENING VISIT TO THE " ZARIFA. ' HEAD WIND. " TRACKING." SPORTING EXCURSION. THE "CLEOPATRA" COMES UP. ANOTHER RACE. A NILE FLEET. EXCITING COMPETITION OP BOAT CREWS. WASHING-DAY. RHODA. ABOO-FAYDAH. CROCODILES. Benisoef. — We left the landing and minarets of Beni- soef early in the morning, and commenced "tracking," the "Zarifa" following. The atmosphere and scenery invited to a walk on shore. The ladies took one direction, while two of us, with the fowling-pieces, went in another, more distant from the river, keeping in view and follow- ing the course of the " Gazelle." Among the birds shot was a very handsome species of hawk. The day, like most of those on a Dahabeeh, was spent in reading, writ- ing, drawing, and no little time in eating. There being no wind, at night we came to anchor, with the "Zarifa" just astern, and soon the gentlemen received an invita- tion from Messrs. Noel and Ramsden, through their Dragoman, to visit them on board and play whist, which two of us accepted. We found them very agreeable and sociable. Mr. N". is a Member of Parliament, and had been in the United States in 1859. In Boston he had experienced much hospitality from some of our "first 42 LETTER VI. families," and belonging to the Reform party, was quite eulogistic of our Government, especially that of Massa- chusetts, and the municipal laws of Boston. It being the last day of the year, preparations were made on the " Gazelle " for some little surprises for New Year's morn, among the R. W. L.'s. It proved the most lovely one we had seen on the Nile. The temperature was 65°, which increased at noon to 75°, and remained in evening at 70° indoors, the differ- ence between which and the deck only varying from 3 to 5 degrees at any time. We were only about 80 miles above Cairo, and tracking, there being no wind. Several steamers passed us, one for the collection of taxes, sent by the Viceroy to swell his immense revenues. These taxes ai'e gathered among the fellaheen, or the Arab peasantry, by a most despotic and wholesale use of the whip, and imprisonment. All of us went on shore again, and as the pigeons were thick, we took our double-barrels. The view whei'e we landed is very pretty. The valley of the Nile, intensely green, is walled in on each side by the distant range of yellow limestone hills or " mountains," as called here; and there are villages of mud-brick walls, and clusters of the ever-present palm-trees, luxurious crops of wheat about a foot high, twenty-acre fields of beans in full blossom, white clover two feet high, corn and lentils (the latter a kind of very small pea, raised in large quantities) just gathered and trodden out by buffa- loes in the field. Squash-vines were just coming out of the ground, protected from the north winds by wisps of straw. The river banks, travelled by a numerous and strange people, presented an interesting sight, while the THE "CLEOPATRA" COMES UP. 43 fields were occupied by numevons fellaheen either harvest- ing or watering the crops by conducting the water, raised from the Nile by means of the well-sweep, over the fields in little channels dug in the soil. This is easily done in the mud deposit of the Nile. It was interesting to me as I roamed over the fields in quest of game to meet and note the peculiarities of this degraded and down-trodden race of men of bronze. They came around me with childish and rather pressing curi- osity, importuning me for backsheesh and powder. They were astonished to see the breech-loader and my revolver, and how effective they were when compared with the few old flint-locks in use among them. Having returned to our boats with our game, while enjoying the scene on deck, the tall spar and pennant of a Dahabeeh appeared among a small squadron of freight-boats coming up with a light breeze, which we were now improving. Her French flag and sigTial indicated her to be the " Cleopatra," with a party of three French counts and three other gentlemen who had left Cairo a week before us. "We sailed all night, passing about 300 sails, during which the "Zarifa" and the "Cleopatra" got ahead of us while we were on a sand-bar. The next morning proved a cloudy one, without any material change in the temperature. It soon cleared off with a good breeze, and we got ahead of our rival boats. I counted 70 sails in sight, 50 of which were in a close line, with the " Zarifa " among them. The sandstone blufis on the east bank of the river reminded me of those on the Upper Mississippi, near St. Paul. The breeze in- creased, bringing up the "Cleopatra." She passed us, 44 LETTER VI. and we passed her in turn, the ci'ews of each singing, drumming, and shouting at each success or gain. As we had to stop to take in two men who had gone to market, she got ahead again. About dinner-time, Minieh, one of the prettiest places on the Nile, was in sight, also an American Dahab^eh named the " Nubia," formerly the " Cairo." We gained oil the " Cleopatra," and came up with her close along- side. She attempted to run into us, which caused some angry words between the respective Dragomans, captains, and crews of the boats, which ended in an interference of the French gentlemen of the " Cleopatra," one of whom administered an emphatic rebuke to his Syrian Dragoman, as it appeared to us, in the shape of a blow. The crews were both excited, — ours because they had been abused, and the rules of the river violated; while in fairly beat- ing them, the other crew lost their temper, and the Drag- oman his sense of duty and propriety. We left them astern, and passed Minieh, the wind being fair, and re- served this among other points of interest for our return. It contains new objects of interest not mentioned in any guide-book, which will be described in a future letter. The scenery improved as we advanced, and we admired the manner of cultivation. The water-raisers were nu- merous on the banks, each station employing three, one above another, about five feet in height apart, wath sweeps and leathern buckets, which raise and deposit the water from one reservoir to another, till it reaches the little channels on the surfVice. In this way, hundreds of thou- sands work to water the land from morning till night. An aqueduct in course of construction, with thousands of WASHING DAY. RHODA. 45 Arabs at work on it, miles of palm-trees, tombs, and ruins of towns — some built by the Romans — made up the variety of the panorama. The routine of boat life was broken to-day by having our washing done on board, and clothes drying on deck. The sunset was lovely, but we lost the breeze, which obliged us to tie up at the shore of the famous Beni- Hassan, the tombs of which we shall visit on our return. The morning was. cool, calm, and foggy, but a clear sun and breeze soon followed. Two miles astern were our old neighbors, amidst a large fleet of freight-boats^ their snowy canvas and lofty sails making a beautiful picture, which I attempted to sketch. The shores as we approached Rhoda increased in beauty, and a dozen tall chimneys of the steam sugar-works appeared, indicating the immense busi- ness done at these, the largest establishments of the kind known. They belong to the Viceroy, whose great mo- nopoly and revenues are hardly estimated or known in America. Lofty palms and acacias became more abundant as we approached the picturesque town, Avhere the new palace, with its gardens and appurtenances on the brink of the river, have a very pretty effect. It is built in the Euro- pean style by a Greek architect, and not yet furnished. "We counted 220 camels lengthened out a mile in single file, all loaded with sugar-cane, and slowly with measured tread wending their way to the mill. Intending to visit this place on our return, we sailed past with a strong fair wind, passing beautiful groves of trees and vegetable gardens. 46 LETTER VI. Many rafts of earthen water-jars were met. They were tied together two deep, each raft containing 1,000. I counted ten rafts in one lot. They are made in Kenneh, in immense quantities, and used both for raising and trans- porting water and other liquids, being about 2 feet high, and holding 5 gallons. Here was to be seen the ancient water-wheel in opera- tion, for irrigation along the banks. On it jars are bound and turned by a horizontal cog-wheel shaft, to which oxen or buffaloes are harnessed in the primitive way of 3,000 years ago. The fields of wheat, barley, beans, grass, lupins,, &c., were in a flourishing condition, and a perfect prairie of wheat extended as far as the eye could reach. Pelicans, geese, ducks, and pigeons were seen in great numbers. We took a walk on shore, and enjoyed a beautiful sunset, as the wind was light and about expir- ing. The " Gazelle " lay by the shore aU night, with the " Zarifa " and " Cleopatra " just astern. The next morning was mild and cleai*; and while the crew were taking breakfast, I went ashore and shot a very pretty hawk, while the doctor brought as his trophy a crocodile bird. The latter is about the size of a large robin, pure black and white, and is said to warn the croco- dile by its peculiar cry. They are very abundant, and crocodiles scarce in this region. We saw, however, to-day, as we passed the high and curious bluffs of Aboo-Faydah, two of these celebrated and once idolized monsters of the Nile basking in the sun under the cliffs, on a bit of sand close to the water's edge. They were pointed out by one of our waiters, otherwise we should not have noticed their peculiar inanimate ioglike forms. We saluted them with CROCODILES. 47 our shot-guns, the contents of which rattled harmlessly on their hard skins, causing them to vanish with a sudden plunge, while the numerous caverns and chasms in these cliffs resounded with the echoes of our guns and voices. They are to be killed only with a ball, either through the eyes, under the neck, or fore-foot. We passed an old Copt convent and many old tombs, and as the wind was light, had to track a part of the day. Sunset was a glori- ous one, and at Manfaloot we tied up for the night. LETTER VII. MANFALOOT. ANOTHER RACE AND NEARLY AN ARAB BOAT- MEN FIGHT. SIOOT. A STRONG BREEZE. SOHAG BREAD-MAKING. TEMPLE OF DENDERAH. ARRIVAL AT THEBES. VISIT TO LADY DUFF GORDON. VISITORS, AND ILLUMINATION OF THE "GAZELLE." On the morning of the 5th of January, we were only just above Manfaloot, once an important town, but is de- scribed by Murray and others as " nearly washed away." We omitted stopping, being out of sight of any Daha- b^eh ; and as the crew were tracking, we took the guns ashore, and had a long tramp after game across an exten- sive plain covered with flourishing crops. A distant view of Sioot was had while tied up at the bank for the even- ing. All was quiet, when I heard what I supposed was a steamer passing us ; but a stir on deck, and orders rapidly given, explained the cause. A breeze had sprung up while our men were sleeping, and our rivals, the " Zarifa " and " Cleopatra," w'ere improving it. We soon over- hauled and passed them. The next morning was calm and cloudy. The " Za- rifa " and " Cleopatra " were just astern. An exciting race of "pushing" now took place. It was neck and neck with the " Cleopatra " and " Gazelle." The crews siooT. 49 abused each other in noisy Arabic. The former got ahead with a httle breeze, but we distanced them in pushing, and finally gained the lead on the tow-path. At breakfast time, our men having the track, tied up as usual, expecting the " Cleopatra " would do the same ; instead of which, she passed us, contrary to the rules. Our captain and crew, incensed, sprang to their poles, and cast off amid a general medley of abuse. Our men began to strip for a fight with those of the "Cleopatra," who were on the bank tracking. I had to interfere, and forbid any fighting in the presence of ladies. They reluctantly obeyed, for the provocation was great. The " Cleopatra " soon stopped for the men to take their breakfast, when we resumed our proper place. A breeze sprang up, and we soon reached the landing of the prin- cipal city of Upper Egypt, with our colors flying in gallant style, those of the English and French closely following. In ten minutes we were all ashore, mounted on donkeys, which are always in readiness at the landing to convey passengers to the city, two miles off. It contains about 20,000 inhabitants, and, with its fifteen minarets, backed by high mountains, makes a very fine appearance. The ride was through beautiful green fields and gardens, with numerous acacia and palm trees on each side of a causeway whose tortuous windings must have been planned for the defences of the city. After visiting the busy and well-supplied bazaars, we called on the Consular Agent, and gave him some letters to forward to America. Returning to the boat, we had a visit fi'om our friends of the " Zarifa." The 4 50 LETTER VII. morning brought a fair wind, and preparations were made for sailing. A sheep killed for the men, according to custom, was hanging up to the rigging. The breeze increased, and we soon were, for the tirst time, sailing with as much wind as we wanted, making 10 miles an hour, and the boat stiff and steady. We passed 16 rafts and several vessel-loads of the Kenneh water-jaES. Nikileh, a Copt or Christian town, appeared so inviting, especially in the quantity of wild pigeons flying in its close vicinity, decided us to put it in our list of down- ward sto^)pages. A Dahabeeh under English colors was lying by, on account of the dreaded wind off the moun- tains of Shekh Harida, which we soon after passed. We had made 50 miles, mostly in about 6 hours. The wind died away in the evening, and we tied up for the night. This being the fast of Ramadan, neither our Drago- man nor Reis would eat or drink anything between sunrise and sunset. The fast lasts 30 days, commencing with the first new moon of the month. The evening was pleasantly passed in playing charades and other games, to which our Dragoman being invited, participated in. He also sang in a low voice an Arabic tune, to which he improvised words of good wishes to the party. The morning brought us a head wind, and we took our guns, bringing back a fine lot of pigeons. We were now in sight of Sohag, at which our Dragoman determined to stop to bake bread for the crew, as wheat was cheaper here. They find their own food on board, and have a cook especially for themselves. It consists principally of wheat bread baked hard in biscuit form without leaven. SOHAG. 51 This is soaked in water and made into a mush, which is eaten with lentils and onions, boiled into a soup. The wheat is bought at the principal towns on the river, where there are millstones for grinding, turned by a mule or buffalo. The crew make it up themselves, and bake it in the ovens of the town, hired for the purpose. No meat is eaten by them except when a sheep is given them occasionally on the voyage as a present. We reached Sohag not before night, owing to the light breeze. The " Zarifa " passed us, as its crew baked their bread at another place, without stopping here. We were aroused the next morning before light by a gun fired from the esplanade of the Government House near us, a signal for Mussulmans to pray and eat before sunrise, the time for those keeping Ramadan. I took an early stroll ashore with my gun, and brought back enough pigeons for our breakfast, after which we all went into town to see the process of bread making and baking. Some schools, a new mosque, and the bazaars were visited. In the latter we encountered two Greeks, one of whom offered to show us his quarters in an English commercial house, established here for the purchase of produce. He gave his name as Nicolas Quibeologas, entertained us with refreshments, and took us over the Government House, introducing us to the Governor, who on our entrance politely received us, dismissing some native merchants who were having some business diffi- culty adjusted. * We were offered, but declined, refresh- ments, and as the Governor could speak only Arabic, we soon took leave. Our Greek friends accompanied us to the " Gazelle," and were entertained till our crew were 52 LETTER VII. ready to sail. They were delighted to meet us, as it is rare they see Europeans or Americans, Sohag being rarely visited by them. The town has 5,000 inhabitants, and a garrison of 500 soldiers. We left at noon, just as an English Dahabeeh had passed, but we soon overhauled and out-sailed her, with a good breeze. The town of Girgeh was passed at night, where the "Zarifa" was observed lying, for her crew to make bread. This was formerly the capital of Upper Egypt, and now ranks next to Sioot. Excursions to the ruins of Abydus are some- times made from this town by a three hours' ride on donkeys, while the boat proceeds up the river. We preferred, as we had a fair wind, to visit it from the nearer point of Bellianeh on our return, keeping our boat there, thus saving a long ride, and avoiding the uncer- tainty of the boat's movements. The wind failed us in the night, during which we were on a sand-bar an hour, and finally tied up. A good progress was made the next day, with a fair wind. We passed a fine sugar-growing country, with another species of palm called the " dome," not foimd in Lower Egypt. At night we had but a light wind, and the morning found us near Kenneh, opposite which is the temple of Denderah, six miles from the shore. This we determined to visit, and accordingly we stopped for the purpose. While getting in readiness, a Dahabeeh with American colors came drifting down with the current. She proved to be the "Sancho," with Messrs. Mifflin, Tiffany, and Wells, of New York, who were the first party up the Nile this season. TEMPLE OP DBNDERAH. 63 We were all soon mounted on donkeys, rambling along at a fast pace beside fields of wheat, lentils, beans, &c., bordered by numerous and various kinds of trees, among which were the dome-palm. These have a short trunk, with thick clusters of leaves forming the shape of a dome somewhat flattened. Passing through a small miserable mud village, with inhabitants but half clad and children nude, we came in sight of the once stately temple of Denderah, with its huge gate half sunk among the debris of Tentyra. No- thing of the town remains but this temple, in a remark- able state of preservation. Its whole interior and exte- rior walls are covered with hieroglyphics in bas-relief. The open entrance-hall, or portico, has 24 columns, 60 feet high, and 8 in diameter, in a space 100 by 70 feet. Then succeeds another hall of 6 columns with three rooms on each side ; after that a central chamber, and the sanctuary behind it. This sanctuary has a pas- sage leading around it, with three rooms on each. side. The whole length of the temple is about 250 feet, and the gate stands nearly 300 feet distant in front. This space once constituted the dromos, and is now a heap of rubbish. But the temple cannot fail to gratify the tour- ist, and should be seen before its more gigantic rivals at Karuak. We returned highly pleased with our visit, and sailed in the evening, with the " Cleopatra " following us close by. Nothing occurred the next day remarkable. The weather was lovely as usual. We passed many villages ; game be- came abundant ; some pigeons were killed ; the " Zarifa " came up in sight, and the " Cleopatra " by a r^ise got ahead 54 LETTER VII. of US in pushing. The sunset was a gorgeous one, the river like a mirror, and thermometer 78°, which fell 9 degrees in 15 minutes after the sun went down. Januaiy 13th. — This Sabbath morning was another clear and warm one, with no wind. We were tracking, and came in sight of Thebes, or Luxor, the long-looked- for city, whose ruins are so woi'ld-wide known and admired. As we passed the flag of the Consulate, a salute was fired by us, and the "Cleopatra" and "Zarifa" were soon moored beside us. We landed immediately, and made a call on the venerable Mustapha Aga, Consular agent of the United States and Great Britain. After getting our letters and papers, which had been forwarded by our bankers in Cairo, we had pipes and coflPee, and then visited the temple, over a part of which the Consulate is built, as is also the house of Lady Duff Gordon, who is residing here.-^ We called on her after sending our cards, which brought her servant to our boat with an invitation. When we entered the presence of this eccentric woman, she was dressed in half Arab costume, sitting on a low divan, with her dinner befoi'e her on a low stand. She was eating with her fin- gers in Arab style, and received us, without rising, with as much sang froid as an Eastern princess. We found her, however, disposed to conversation, which turned on the subject of the state of the country and people. She dis- played much interest for the Arabs, and considerable in- telligence on matters and things generally. She is an authoress, as is also her mother, Mrs. Austin, in England. We were visited by Mr. Smith of New York, a resident ^ This lady has since died. VISITS. 55 of the place, who takes an interest in antiquities, and Americans who visit Thebes. In the evening we had a call from our friends of the " Zarifa," Messrs. Noel and Ramsden, and our tea-table was well filled in the saloon of the " Gazelle." She was illuminated on the occasion of our arrival at Thebes by 64 colored lanterns, strung along the decks. LETTER VIII. AT THEBES. VISIT TO THE OPPOSITE TEMPLES AND TOMBS. ARRIVAL OP THE SONS OF THE VICEROY. RECEP- TION ON BOARD THEIR STEAMER. DEPARTURE FROM THEBES. STEAM SUGAR-WORKS AT ERMENT. ARRIVAL AT ESNEH. ITS TEMPLE. INVITATION OF AND VISIT TO THE PRINCES. At Thebes, the weather was fine, calm, and clear, with thermometer at 53° at sunrise, and 75° at 2 to 4 p. m. There was little variation from this during the three days we remained here. The first morning we crossed the river to make an excursion on donkeys to see the temples, a guide, donkey-boys, and girls, with jars of water on their heads, attending us. The two Colossi, or sitting statues, on the plain, were first visited. They were erected by King Amunoph, on the great " Kingsway " leading to Luxor. Their length is 53 feet, 18 feet 3 inches across the shoulders, 16 feet from shoulder to elbows, \Q^ from crown of head to shoulders, and 19 feet 8 inches from knees to soles of the feet. We next went to the ruins of the temple palace of Medinet Habou, classed amongst the largest edifices of Egypt. The royal castle of Rameses III., a young Pha- raoh king, has three pyramidal towers, two in front and MEDINBT HABOU. 57 one in rear, with court, windows, and balconies richly sculptured. This Avas once a royal harem. At the right is a succession of temples several hundred feet long, with gigantic pylons and columns, which with the halls are all sculptured over their entire surfaces with bas-reliefs representing the deeds and greatness of Ram- eses, and the triumphs of the Pharaoh kings over their enemies in Asia. The scenes of battles, marching armies, triumphal return with prisoners, would take a hundred of my pages to describe fully, and the extent, amount of labor, and beauty of execution surpass belief. The whole is sadly mutilated, but 3,000 years ago it must have been beautiful, especially the coloring, some of which yet remains. Two hours were spent in examining this vast pile of ruins, and then w-e mounted to the top walls, and thence through one of the upper tower windows into the same to take our luuch, after which we went to the Memno- nium, which for noble proportions and symmetry of its architecture, is considered one of the most celebrated works of Egyptian art. The propylon is 234 feet in length, and pi-incipal edifice 600 feet long by 200 broad, with 6 courts, 6 chambers, and 160 columns. At the en- trance of the second court once sat the colossal figure of King Rameses II., large fragments of which are scattered about, though a part remains intact. It was the largest statue ever made by the Egyptians, measuring 60 feet high, and weighing 900 tons. It is of splendid reddish granite, without flaw or seam, finely polished, and cut with hieroglyphics. It was in one mass, and brought from the Cataracts of the Nile, 200 miles distant. On 58 LETTER VIII. the statue was inscribed, " I am the King of Kings, Osi- mandyas ; if any one wish to know how great I am, and where I lie, let him surpass one of my works." I omit any further description, and conclude our day's jo^^rney by a ride to the Temple Palace of Koornah, about a mile from the river, opposite Karnak. It was begun by Osirei, completed by Rameses III., and dedi- cated to Amun, the Jupiter of Egypt. We returned by 5 p. m. to our boat, and re-crossed to the "Gazelle," on board of which the Governor, Consul, and some friends were entertained in the evening. Our companions, the " Cleopatra " and the " Zarifa," left during the night. The next day was spent in visiting the tombs of the priests in the Vale of Assasif. The Governor sent a guard with us, to keep us from being annoyed by a crowd asking for backsheesh and offering antique relics. The hills west of the Memnonium are full of tombs, built by wealthy priests of the 26th dynasty, 700 years before Christ, and are remarkable for their extent and the quantity of sculpture and materials with which they are ornamented. That belonging to the priest Petamunap, is the largest, being, as they all are, hewn out of the solid rock, and to the extent in apartments and passages of 862 feet in length, with a space of 230,809 cubic feet. •The first is a court, 103 feet long by 76 broad, leading to a smaller one supported by pillars, and several others in succession with columns. From thence by passages and descending staii's other apartments are reached. All of the entire sui'faces are covered with sculpture, but the beauty of this, as well as the other tombs, is gone, by a THE MEMNONIUM. 59 wholesale mutilation, most of the columns being carried off. Those in the mountain Abd-el-Koornah were next ex- amined, of which No. 35 is the most interesting, though inferior in size to that preceding. It is remarkable for faithfully portraying scenes on its walls, novel as they are interesting. Innumerable figures in bas-relief and colored represent processions of black and red men bring- ing presents of leopards, monkeys, hides, dried fruit, and ebony ; other men of a pale red color, with presents of vases, necklaces, &c. ; Egyptians with gold rings, monkeys, leopards, ivory, ostrich eggs, feathers, giraffes, hounds with collars, and oxen ; Northern nations with gloves, vases, horses, a carriage, elephants, and ivory. AH these presents are being laid before Pharaoh, who is sitting upon his throne attended by his secretaries, who are noting down the presents. Egyptian artisans of various kinds are represented, such as carpenters, rope-makers, sculp- tors, brick-makers, workers of metals, painters, and many others, giving a good idea of the manners and customs of the ancient Egyptians. After spending about three hours under ground in examining these and others, we rode to the Memnonium under a scorching sun, and spread our lunch in the cool shades of the columns of the temple, where we remained for nearly two hours. The ladies had enjoyed the sub- terranean researches, and experienced no disagreeable sensation from the air of the tombs, which is perfectly dry, and without offensive odor. We reached our Dahab^eh at 4 P. M., to find the saloon at a temperature of 80 degrees. 60 LETTER VIII. The three princes, sons of Ismail Pasha, Viceroy of Egypt, being expected, preparations were made on shore to receive them. Our lanterns were all put in requisi- tion, and lighted on the landing in front of the Consul's. They ari'ived with three steamers at 7 p. m., but did not land. The next day, the princes visited Karnak, and on their return we received an invitation through our Consul to be presented to them in the evening on board their steamer. Late in the afternoon, we attended an exhi- bition of Arab horsemanship got up for their entertain- ment, and were seated near them. The lads were dressed in European suits of blue, with the fez, and seated on an elegant divan. Their names are Tewfik (the Prince Im- perial, and heir to the throne), 1 3 years old ; Hassan and Huseyn, of the respective ages of 10 and 1 1 years. Hav- ing sent our cards, our whole party went on board at 8 p. M., and were presented by Sherif Pasha, late minister of Public Woi'ks, and now member of the Conseil d'^Jtat. They were on the quarter-deck, and remained seated on a divan of gilt frame, upholstered with satin damask covering, there being another of the same placed opposite, with four chairs to match, for the use of the guests. The ladies were permitted to salute them with the hands, while the gentlemen only touched the fez they wore, as we were each presented by name. After being seated, pipes and coffee were handed us. The former were stud- ded with diamonds, with amber mouthpieces, and richly decorated, the bowls attached to the long stems resting on the floor. The ladies, according to etiquette, conde- scended to imbibe a whiff or two of the fragrant Latakia. ERMENT. 61 Conversation in French was carried on with them and their preceptor and physician for half an hour, when we took leave. The latter, Selim Bey, accompanied us to our boat, where he was entertained with champagne and cigarettes. The following morning was cloudless and beautiful as ever, without any air stirring to ruffle the deep, broad mass of silently moving water. Starting on our voyage, tracking, of course, had to be resorted to. We were accompanied by three other Dahabeehs, all of us being towed till we reached Erment, where we stopped in the afternoon to examine the steam sugar-works of the Vice- roy. These, next to those of Rhoda, are the largest in the world. The buildings and all the appurtenances and machinery, under a French engineer, were in excellent order, the boilers and metal coolers bright and clean. Twenty revolving kettles, making 1200 revolutions a minute, converted the damp brown sugar into a dry white, in five minutes. Returning to our boat, we witnessed a most gorgeous sunset, and an immense number of geese in successive flocks, their screams filling the air, as their crooked lines sailed over us. The bright moon soon threw her radiant light over the scene, and was reflected in the mirrored river. The next day was a repetition of the same weather. We took a stroll ashore, saw women with rings in their noses, men nearly naked, and children entirely so, — no new sight to us. A mass of pelicans, geese, and ducks were on a sand-bar, which would have been a harvest for one of Lord Landsborough's swivels. The steamers, with 62 LETTER VIII. the princes on board the largest, passed us and received a salute, which was returned, the princes waving their handkerchiefs. A breeze sprang up, and carried us in gallant style to Esneh, which was gay with flags, streamers, and decora- tions on four steamers and some Government boats. Our fleet, of three American and two English Dahabeehs, en- hanced the beauty of the scene. The princes were there, and preparations being made for illuminations, in which we joined. We went immediately to visit the temple in the midst of the town, the interior of which, cleared out by Mehemet Ali, discloses a beautifully proportioned portico, with 24 immense columns 19 feet in circumference, and 65 feet in height, with capitals of papyrus, doura, palm, date, and vine leaves, disposed . of in charming order in tulip form. This palace was built in the reigns of Claudius, Vespasian, and Titus, three sides of which, outside, yet lie buried beneath the debris of the town. A half mile down the river brought us to the palace of Mehemet Ali, in front of which, arbors of palms and decorations in honor of the princes were erected. We were there met by their preceptor and physician, who informed us it was the fourth annivei'sary of the Viceroy's accession to the throne of Egypt, that it would give the princes pleasure to have us attend a soiree on board that evening, and that they would call and accom- pany us from our boat at 9| o'clock. We accepted their in- vitation, and were then conducted over the gardens of the palace, and bouquets of flowers presented to the ladies. The "Gazelle" was again illuminated, as were also the four steamers of the Viceroy's other boats, and the landing. At RECEPTION BY THE PRINCES. 63 the appointed time, the gentlemen came, when our musi- cal crew conveyed us by the river to the steamer, singing all the while their Arab songs, much to the enjoyment of the princes. The quarter-deck of the steamer was dec- orated with palms and flags, an awning with sides spread, and the whole brilliantly lighted. "We were received as before, except with greater cordiality, and were told that had not the breeze sprung up that day, a steamer would have been detailed to tow us to Esneh for this occasion. Two gentlemen from Philadelphia, in another American boat, were the only recipients with our party of this hos- pitality. Coffee and pipes were followed by a spirited conversation in French for an hour, during which I con- versed most of the time with the youngest prince, next to whom I sat. Our conversation was about Egypt, Turkey, and America, and resources of the latter. He reminded me that the mosque of St. Sophia at Constantinople was once a Christian church, and his conversation dis- played considerable modesty and intelligence for one of his years. Champagne, cake, and fruit were handed round ; afterwards 005*60 for the gentlemen, and tea for the ladies. As the latter were about to take leave, each of the princes rose from the divan and handed them ele- gant bouquets. We returned at 11 o'clock to our boat, highly gratified with this unlooked-for episode in life on the Nile. LETTER IX. ON THE VOYAGE. PASS SILSILLIS. TEMPLE OP OMBOS. APPROACH TO ASSOUAN. ARRIVAL AND SALUTES EX- CHANGED WITH THE STEAMERS OP THE PRINCES. CHANGE OF RIG OF THE " GAZELLE " FOR HOME VOYAGE. VISIT TO PHIL^ BY MOONLIGHT. — DEATH OF DR. BROWNELL. ELEPHANTINE ISLAND. A BOAT EXCUR- SION AROUND IT. The day succeeding that of our entertainment by the princes at Esneh was spent at that place, where our crew had their second bread-baking. The Royal party left for the Cataract before us, and salutes were again ex- changed as they passed. We left with a good breeze, which soon died away. The following day, Sunday, was perfectly clear and calm. The events were : Overtaking the "Nubia," or " Cairo," on which were Drs. Post and Brownell of New York, whom we had met before ; a Sun- day service, as usual, of reading an appropriate historical portion of the Old Testament, and singing familiar sacred hymns ; a short walk ashore ; the meeting of an English and two American Dahabeehs bound down ; an excessive heat of 108° in the sun; a slight breeze; seeing about a thousand geese congregated on a sand-bar very near us (they probably knew it was Sunday) ; the passing of the OMBOS. 65 mountain and quarries of Silsilis by moonlight ; another cahii, and a tie up for the night. A succession of cahns and light variable breezes brought us to Orabos the next day. The three steamers of the princes, that had stopped the two nights previous, overtook and passed us, salutes being exchanged as usual. We landed to explore the ruins of this temple, or the smaller portions of it, once of immense size. Only a por- tico with 13 columns remains, standing in a fine situa- tion overlooking the river, and three quarters buried in sand. It was built, like those of Thebes, from the sand- stone quarries of Silsilis, by Ptolemseus Philometer and Dionysius. Our progress towards Assouan was slow, but not tedious. We had again to tie up for want of wind, and at midnight our old friends of the " Zarifa " passed us, floating down with the current, having "done" the First Cataract of the Nile, and now on their return. The following day, the 22d of January, vras, as regards ■weather, a repetition of the preceding ones, the ther- mometer ranging from 50° to 75° in our saloon. We were near our voyage's end ; the scenery became materi- ally changed, and the hills on each side of the river were more rocky, drawing nearer together, leaving only a nar- row strip of land bordering on the river, cultivated with small patches of lupins in full blossom, tobacco, and vari- ous kinds of vegetables. Very few birds of any kind were seen, and none of the larger tribe of them. The heights around Assouan became visible, and a breeze which had sprung up brought us to the town at noon. The Viceroy's steamers were there, dressed very gay with flags. Our salute of 10 guns was returned as we 5 66 LETTER IX. ran past them and made fast to the beautiful island of Elephantine, opposite the town, it being preferable for mooring to the ordinary pla,ce on the other side of the river. Our Di^agoman, El Adli, immediately took us over to visit the bazaars and the sights of this border town, lying between Egypt and Nubia. Here were to be seen the barbarian Arabs, with their fine aquiline fea- tures and hair in braids, but considered no better than robbers on the desert ; Nubians, the females mostly with a ring through one of the nostrils, their persons having only a scanty covering ; children, without regard to sex, entii-ely naked ; and many other objects different from those we had seen in Lower Egypt. A stroll after- wards on the island bi'ought a troop of men, women, and children after us to sell pebbles and trinkets, or beg for hacksheesh. Our captain and crew now proceeded to strip the masts of the " Gazelle " of her spars, and arrange them for the downward voyage. The long forward one, of 60 feet, was fastened fore and aft from mast to mast just overhead, and the short one aft shifted to the foremast, to carry sail sufficient for steering, the cu.rrent and our ten sweeps, manned by as many sinewy-armed "men of bronze," being sufficient when drifting. Our captain and some of the crew whose homes were in the vicinity, got a three days' leave of absence, to meet us on a certain day a few miles below, and our Dragoman took the command. This night our illumina- tions, with those on the opposite side, with a full moonlight, all reflected on the calm waters of the Nile, was a picture not easily to be forgotten. But another and far more beautiful one was in store for us. THE ISLAND OP PHIL^. 67 Who that has heard of the wonders of this river has not heard also of the enchantment of moonhght at Philse 1 This lovely isle needs not the bright moonbeams to clothe it in beauty, for it is ever lovely under any aspect. Few have the good fortune to see it reposing in a perfectly calm, mirrored basin, with a cloudless sky, and under a flood of golden light such as the lunar orb in this clime can only give. The time was propitious : the moon rose at 8 ; we determined to start then for the island, and visit the temples, foiu' miles distant. It being a somewhat rough ride, besides a rougher walk, it was considered too much for the ladies by our cautious and careful El Adli. Crossing the river as the glorious orb touched the eastern hills, we found the donkeys, boys, a runner, and a lantern-bearer ready. The luminary was extinguished, and by the rays of the " golden moon " we soon cleared the town, and were on a fast trot in the desert. Reaching the moorings of Phila>, where numerous craft and a small steamer were lying, we could hear the roar of the Cataract, or rapids, four miles distant, in the stillness of the night. These were below us, being in the bend of the river across which we had ridden. Here the Eeis of the Cataract, by order from the Governor of Af3gouan, sent forward, from a mile distant, a boat with four men to take us over to the island and back. Dis- mounting, we walked by a rough and tortuous path over and among smooth black stones, while curious piles of huge rocks of the same color reared their heads around us in overhanging fragments. Emerging from these, the opening disclosed a calm, placid sheet of water, with no apparent outlet. A few steps farther, on approaching its 68 LETTER IX. high marginal bank, the Island of Philee, with its ruined temples and the one yet nearly pei'fect, with all its columns standing, came into view. The latter, near the river, has a battlement wall in front, rising about eighty feet from the brink, with a flight of steps partly em- bedded in sand. After crossing, we landed, clambered up the steep bank, and crossed the ruins of the old brick Coptic town of the 7th century, which disfigures the place. Entering and passing through the extensive temple by candlelight, we emerged, with full moonlight, into its open entrances, having long colonnades in front, the corridors supported by 36 columns on each side. We then proceeded to the open temple on the margin of the river. A fine view of the whole scene, the island and its lesser neighbors, the surrounding hills and lake-like water, was best seen from a rocky eminence at the southern point of the island. The effects of pistol-shots were very audible, in three distinct echoes, from this spot. After spending an hour, our boatmen rowed us a mile down to where we left our donkeys : our songs alone broke the stillness of a scene enjoyed only by a few in these modern times. Here, in the days of the Ptole- mies, 200 years before Christ, the temple of Isis wit- nessed the strange rites of thousands, and centuries saw these temples thronged with the worshippers of its strange votaries. In these, in the year 451 a. d., the Romans signed articles of peace with the tribes of Blemmyes and Ethiopian Bedouins, who were the last worshippers of Isis in Philse. This beautiful island, at the head of the Catai'act, and on the borders of ISTubia, is claimed to be the burial-place of Osiris. On nearly DEATH OP DB. BROWNELL. 69 all sides it is hemmed in by high black rocks heaped up in the most grotesque forms. The open space to the eastward leads over a belt of desert bordered on the river by a strip of vegetation and wide-spread acacia- trees and tall palms. Our ride back to Assouan was accomplished in an hour, and from Messrs. Moorhead and Leach,- of Philadelphia, just arrived there in the " Bund," we learned the melancholy intelligence of the death of Dr. Brownell on board the " Nubia " that morning, and that the boat had put back to Edfou for his interment in a Coptic tomb. Thoixgh not unexpected, from his condi- tion (the last stage of consumption), it was sad to realize that one we had conversed with only three days before was no more, and that his remains were to be laid so far from home. The sky was cloudless on the day following ; not a zephyr stirred the waters of the Nile, and our flags at half mast appeared sad and drooping. We took a stroll on the island to view the ruins of a temple biiilt by Amunph III., dedicated to the god Kneph, and a gateway of the time of Alexander the Great. Here was to be seen part of a statue and altar of red granite dedicated to Amun. The view to the south is charming. High sandstone hills, with the fine yellow sand blown in drifts like snow ; their summits crowned by old ruins ; the im- mediate shores piled up with huge black smooth and hol- lowed boulders, looking like skeleton heads of elephants or mastodons, and a variety of grotesque forms. The island is nearly a mile in length and a quarter broad, having charming groves of palms and acacias. The Nubians have a village here, and cultivate the land. We 70 LETTER IX. saw some women with only a short skirt of cloth ai'ound the waist, grinding doura between two flat stones, which they were rubbing togethei*. A fringe veil to hide the face was formed of their hair, braided in fine twists, and stained brown with henna. Though they were entirely naked above the waist, their modesty impelled them to conceal their faces. The weather, and water like a mir- ror, was so inviting, that, as the sun declined near the western hills, we took our small boat for a row around the entire island. I cannot devote the space to describe the beauties of that two houi's' excursion. The islands, rocks, and every object in sight, even the distant sand- hills, were so perfectly reflected in the water, that the dividing line of substance and shadow was hard to dis- tinguish. There are seventeen rocky islets between the island and the western shore. In the evening, our friends of the " Bund " visited us and spent a merry evening. As they were bound up the First Cataract in their small but pretty Dahabeeh, we accepted an invitation to accompany them. The excite- ment of witnessing the singular method of the amphi- bious men of the Cataract in getting a boat up the rapids, was a novelty I wished to see, and a description of it, with another visit to Philse, will serve as interesting items for another letter. LETTER X. ANOTHER VISIT TO PHIL^. ENCOUNTER WITH A NUBIAN. EGYPTIAN JUSTICE. THE MEN OP THE CATARACT. RETURN TO THE "gazelle." ASCENT OP THE CATARACT IN THE "bund." COMMENCEMENT OP OUR RETURN VOYAGE TO CAIRO. QUARRIES OP SILSILIS. TEMPLE OP EDPOU. A PLEASANT MEETING OP FRIENDS. While awaiting at Assouan a strong favorable wind for the " Bund " to ascend the Cataract, another visit to Philse was decided on, to occupy the entire day, and arrange- ments were made as before for donkeys, &c. We left at 10 A. M. with the ladies, and in crossing the intervening desert, met quantities of camels bearing soldiers, with their wives and families, returning from Nubia. Arriving opposite the charming island, a small Daha- beeh was waiting to convey us over. A crowd of men, women, and children, all Nubians, were assembled to sell us silver and other trinkets, or to get backsheesh. We were so annoyed and closely pressed, that the Icoorhash (a whip made from the hide of a rhinoceros) was needed to keep them at bay, and had to be applied to prevent a couple of persistent men from taking passage with us. We landed at the old ruined stairs, entered the rear portals of the Temple of Isis, and examined the interior 72 LETTER X. of its courts and rooms. Then, ascending to the roof, where a fine view of the island and its singularly beauti- ful suri'oundings was had, our lunch was spread in the open porch of the temple, the crew and several of the natives — some of whom had swum over — being seated among the fragments of the ruins around us, looking on with curious eyes, anxious to get something. Returning to the boat to re-cross, and awaiting our Dragoman, a distant noise of voices attracted my atten- tion. One of our crew was seen to spring on board, seize a pole, and rush np the bank. I divined some trouble, threw off my coat, seized the Tcoorhash, and was followed by others to the scene near the landing, where El Adli and two nearly naked Nubians were gesticulating furiously, one of the latter, with a short-handled hoe, in a threatening attitude. I sprang in between them, and learned in a breath from our Dragoman that the barbarian was about to strike him. I instantly raised my hoorhash, which he dodged, and ran towards the river, closely pur- sued by me. He dropped his hoe as I approached him, and sprang into the river. A shot fired in the air by one of our party behind me frightened him, and he dived. As he rose, I levelled my revolver at him, when he again disappeared like a duck. Twice I repeated the experi- ment, with the same success, when I felt satisfied, and disposed to laugh at the fright I gave this demi-savage. Not so El Adli, who was enraged that such an outrage should be perpetrated on him, the Dragoman and repre- sentative, as he said, of " European people." It appears that the Nubian (the one with the hoe) had abused El Adli for being the servant of the despised Christians, EGYPTIAN JUSTICE. 73 which led to a rejoinder, at which the Nubian and his companion threatened him. The former was about to strike the Dragoman, who was perfectly unarmed, when I came to the rescue. The sequel is a remarkable comment on Egyptian jus- tice, which we had no part in the administration of. El Adli caused the two men to be arrested and sent to Assouan the next day, on a complaint to the Governor, and on his own statement of the facts, before we knew anything of it, they received each, as El Adli informed us, a hundred lashes, to intimidate others from insulting and assaulting the " representatives " of Europeans. On returning to the shore after buying rings of silver, &c., from Khartoum, and running the gauntlet of a crowd of the most importunate beggars I ever saw, we mounted our donkeys and rode westward an hour towards the Cata- ract. We arrived at the rocky shore of the second gate of the great rapid, and had not time to descend a small beach near a cove, before a score of naked Nubians and Arabs were seen among the black rocks in the rapids to spring into the rushing waters, and, with powerful and rapid strokes, reach the beach near where we were stand- ing. Some of them were entirely naked, others with only a strip of cloth around their loins. They came rushing up to us like so many wild Indians, and demanded hacTc- sheesh for their exploit, which was distributed among them, when, they disappeared in the water to repeat the exhibi- tion, giving us time to take a look at the scene and make an escape before the ladies were subjected to another such annoyance ; but we were followed by a dozen good runners, who were got rid of by a handful of coppers thrown in the sand. 74 LETTER X. On our return to Assouan, we rode by the celebrated quarries of red and green granite, where the obelisks of Luxor, Karnak, Heliopolis, Alexaudria, and the colossal statue of the Memnonium were obtained. An obelisk, 100 feet in length and 8 in diameter, lies abandoned in its bed by the a,ncients, who found a flaw in it. We reached the " Gazelle " at six, and appreciated the merits of our most excellent cook, Achmet Shaheeu, in a good dinner, as usual, served up by Mahomed and Abouzed. The next morning, the light southerly breeze which had kept the " Bund " at her moorings, suddenly changed to the north, and our two friends came to accompany us on board of their Dahab^eh, to make the ascent of the First Cataract. El Adli engaged donkeys to follow us in case we reached the "second gate" before night, when we de- termined to leave the boat, as most of the interest is in passing the " first gate," we having seen Philae already. The " Bund " left at 11, with a stiff breeze, and under the pressure of her great foresail entered the eastern passage of Elephantine Island, and was soon among the rocks, guided by the skilful hands of the Reis of the Cat- aract and his assistants. The former is alone I'esponsible for any damage to the boat in the passage, and receives a large fee for himself and men for getting boats over. We reached the first gate, slowly and steadily gaining against the swift current, in two hours and a half Here we made fast to the rocks, and in fifteen minutes three hawsers, manned by thirty of the Cataract men and the crew, were bent on different points of rocks. For 10 minutes the}"- tugged away, aided by the force of the sail, but without gaining a foot. We then began to move slightly ; the PASSING THE FIRST CATARACT. 75 men on the rocks, in the water, and on deck shouted and exerted themselves to the utmost, when a strong pufF of wind gave us a start. In about thirty minutes, we passed the first rapid, and sailed on boldly among the rocks in a swift current, till we came to the second rapid. Here the dashing swimmers, with ropes in their teeth, carried hawsers aci-oss from I'ock to rock to hold us fast in case the wind should fail us. All the strength of the men was again put forth, with loud cries, and for 10 minutes we just held our own way, and then slowly began to move. At one moment it seemed as though we were going upon a large rock close to our bows, but the strong- wind carried us past, aided by the skill of the Reis, and the first gate and second rapid were passed at three p. m., and the boat tied up for the day. We were not permitted to land before partaking of a sumptuous dinner by our liberal entertainers, which kept us on board till five o'clock, when we mounted our don- keys in waiting, and arrived at twilight at the landing of Assouan, where we found the " Cairo " and " Morning- Star " had arrived. We had a call in the evening from the two English gentlemen of the latter. The next day, January 26th, was the appointed one for starting on the downward passage. The weather was perfection, hardly a breeze to display our starry flags, while a salute of thirteen guns was fired as we all reluc- tantly turned our bow down stream. A slight breeze sprang up, when we met some friends making their wedding-tour up the Nile in a small, pretty, and swift Dahabeeh belonging to Abdallah Pasha. We made slow progress in drifting, as the wind was against us. The 76 LETTER X. Egyptian steamer was met, whose passengers displayed an American flag forward as we passed them. We stopped at a village to take our Reis and some of the crew, who had left at Assouan on a four days' furlough, and an English Dahab^eh was spoken, by which we learned news of friends behind us. And thus ended the events of the day. The following one we landed at Silsilis. Here, it is said, an Egyptian king put a chain across, fastened to two upright rocks on either side of the river, where the sandstone hills approach to within 1100 feet of each other. We visited several grottos, some built by Horus, one of the last Pharaohs. The blocks cut from these immense and interesting quarries wei'e sent to Thebes and other cities by rafts or boats. The granite from Assouan was conveyed by land for the obelisks and colossi, the largest of which employed 2,000 men three years in its removal during the reign of Amasis. We ex- changed salutes with a French Dahabeeh, and nothing more of interest occurred during the day. The 28 th was calm and clear, when we stopped to visit the Temple of Edfou. We had a very interesting ride of a mile to reach the town, which has a large population of industrious Copts, Arabs, and some Nubians. They ap- peared very civil, and most of the women had their faces uncovered. We saw some Nubian girls in the streets with nearly their whole bodies uncovered, having only a strip of leather with a deep fringe around their loins. As our guide-books have little to say about this temple, describing it as being mostly buried under the ruins of the old Coptic town, we were greatly surprised and THE TEMPLE OF EDFOU. 77 pleased to find it the most extensive, grand, and interest- ing we had yet seen. (Murray's new edition for 1867 alludes to its being recently restored to view, but gives no description, and the following, with measurements, are entirely my own.) It was excavated to its foundations by Said Pasha, late viceroy, who caused the debris of the town to be thoroughly cleaned out, and exposed to view the best-preserved temple in Egypt. Unlike others, it has an especial guard, and neither natives nor visitors are allowed to enter without being attended by the officer stationed there. It is surrounded by a wall about 60 feet in height on three sides, forming an immense oblong square, having at the only entrance a huge pyramidal propylon 200 feet in length, 30 wide, and 100 feet high. Its towers have in each 250 steps of 5 inches rise, leading to spacious apartments in different elevations, and to the roof, where one of the finest views on the Nile may be had, and a bird's-eye view of the town, with its busy people directly below the walls. The temple has a pro- naos, adytum, and sekos. The great court has three sides, with 34 columns leading to the pronaos, which has 18 immense pillars, 9 feet in diameter at the base, and about 50 in height, and is 50 feet by 140, including walls, which are 9 feet thick at base and 6 feet at the top. The adytum, with 12 columns, is a little inferior in size to the pronaos, and has four rooms on each side, from one of which a flight of 1 00 steps leads to its roof and that of the naos. Two other small courts, with two rooms on each side, separate this from the naos, or inner part of the temple, which has no outlet but its huge pyramidal-shaped entrance, corresponding in style with 78 LETTER X. the others, all m a dii-ect line with the propylon entrance. There are no columns in this sacred part of the temple, but in the centre stands a large upright granite sai'co- phagus, in the form of a chapel, with a flattened pyra- mid or elliptical arch. It has a passage-way on its three sides, which is separated from the outer walls by nine rooms. We ascended to the roof, which is composed of blocks of stone 22 feet by 6, and 4 thick, and walked around on the summit of its huge walls, 20 feet above the roof and 60 from the paved passage below, which separates the temple from the outside surrounding walls of same height. The cap-stones are 6 feet by 6, and 4 thick, dovetailed, and fastened with hiage clamps. I could not ascertain the entire length of this enormous edifice. It was founded by Ptolemy Philometer, and completed by Euergetes the Second and his successors. The names of Alexander and Cleopatra are frequently inscribed on its walls, the interior and exterior of which, together with the columns and ceilings, are completely covered with figures and hieroglyphics in bas-relief, in a most remarkable state of preservation. It is a wonderful fact, that the immense walls of this edifice are without a crack, and are as level in their joints of ashlers, and as plumb as when finished, over 2,000 years ago. No traveller should omit devoting a half-day at least to this gigantic and well-preserved monument of ancient masonry and art. Having seen from the roof of the temple, a Dahabeeh coming up the river slowly, we hurried back to our boat, having spent less than three hours in inspecting the beautiful sculptures of figures on these walls, as we VISITORS. 79 expected to meet our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Hiram Hitch- cock, of New York, in the " Nightingale." It proved to be they, and joyous salutes were exchanged as they neared and recognized us. An hour was spent in mutual visits, when they pursued their upward voyage with a fair wind. A short time after, we were again drifting with the current. LETTER XL EL KAB. — SHOOTING EXCURSION. ERMENT. THE VICE- ROY'S SUGAR-WORKS. CHASE AFTER A PELICAN. AT THEBES AGAIN. KARNAK. ITS TEMPLES. VISIT TO THE TOMBS OP THE KINGS. FAREWELL TO THEBES. The day following that spent at Edfou, where the re- mains of our esteemed countryman, Dr. Brownell, were recently entombed, was noticeable as being partially cloudy, the first time for some weeks. At El Kab, where we stopped to see the old tombs a mile distant, the ride on donkeys was a splendid one ; and as game was observed to be plentiful, on our return we took our fowling-pieces and had three hours' good shooting along the shore and in the doura-fields. Among the birds killed were several beautiful specimens of hawks, white ibis, &c. The whole plain for miles was covered with young wheat, and the doura, just being harvested, had stalks ten feet in height, which were being dried in the sun, and the ears in heaps, sepai'ate, in the same manner. After leaving in our boat for Erment, we met a French and American Dahabeeh, and exchanged salutes as usual. « •Next day, the strong head wind impeded our progress. This was satisfactory to us, though not so to our Drago- THE viceroy's SUGAR- WORKS. 81 man, who took us by the trip ; but he bore all such de- tentions like a philosopher. Erment was not reached, but the time passed rapidly in the various employments of writing, reading, games, &c. In one of our sallies from our Dahabeeh in the small boat, after game, on the sand-bars, I shot a large and beautiful white crane, with black wings and splendid crest. It is called a " sultan," and measured 4 feet 3 inches from its beak to the end of its short tail, and 5 feet 7 inches from tip to tip of wings extended. Erment was reached the following day, and on land- ing, a sorry lot of donkeys were obtained, to ride to the temple, four miles distant. The governor and superin- tendent of the Viceroy's sugar-works, whom we had met with the princes at our interview at Thebes, kindly sent us a horse and two excellent donkeys, one of them, a large white one, of the Mecca breed, being worth $500. It was market-day, and during our very pleasant ride on an avenue of three miles of acacia-trees, we met a continuous throng of country people of all kinds and con- ditions, curious to behold. On one side of us, an im- mense field of sugar-cane, extending as far as the eye could reach, was just being cut and carried to the mill. The Governor informed me he employed in these works 2,600 men and boys, and 1,250 camels. A continual file of the latter reached three miles on their way to and from the mill. On the other side of the avenue were fields of wheat " in the milk," and barley a few inches above ground. The ruins of the temple proved to be not worth visiting, there being only three or four col- umns standing, the rest having been used for building purposes. 6 82 LETTER XI. Our ride, however, proved a very pleasant one, and after calling on the Governor, inviting him on board, and entertaining him a while, we left for Thebes, only six miles distant. We met a large new Dahabeeh, called the " Memphis," under English colors, and near Thebes saw quantities of pelicans on a sand-bar. I went in pursuit with the Doctor in the small boat, manned by two of our sailors, and we succeeded in wounding one with our double-barrels; but after a chase it escaped us, as we had left our ammunition behind, and the water was too shallow for us. Besides, as our boatmen in the water neared the huge bird, it managed to elude them. The "Gazelle" arrived at Thebes before us, and we had a long pull, with nothing to show for it. On going to the Consul's, the venerable Mustapha handed us a large number of papers and letters from home, that had been retained for our return. Karnak the incomparable, which had been held in reserve on our first visit here, the ruins of which had been so extolled, was now the first object to be seen, and the morning of the 1st of February saw us mounted for the greatest of all the ruins of Egypt. In half an hour we passed the distance once spanned by a broad avenue of two miles in length, bordered with 1,200 gigantic sphinxes, leading from the Temple of Thebes to the great gateway of that of Karnak, through which we entered. Having first ridden a circuit of two miles around the several temples and gateways, we entered the mammoth edifice by what was once another avenue of sphinxes, at its front looking towards the river. No pen can give an adequate idea of the gi-andeur of these magnificent THE TEMPLE OP KARNAK. 83 remains of ancient Thebes, neither will my limits permit me to give more than some measurements and a brief description. Denon concludes a partial description which he attempted, by declaring that " one is fatigued with writing and reading, and stunned with the thought of such conception. It is hardly possible to believe, after having seen it, in the reality of the existence of so many buildings collected at a single point, in their dimensions, in the resolute perseverance which their construction required, and the incalculable expense of so much mag- nificence. On examination of these ruins, the imagination is wearied with the idea of describing them." Prime says, " It is a greater wonder than the Pyramids." Of the one hundred columns of the portico alone, the smallest are 7^ feet in diameter, and the largest 12 feet. The buildings comprising the chief temple are 1,200 feet long by 420 wide, and the space consecrated to its use is about a mile in diameter. This contains the ruins of numerous subordinate temples, gigantic gateways, with huge pylons, obelisks, and colossal figures, all covered, like every space of wall and column of the great temple, with elaborate scenes and hieroglyphics, either in exqui- site bas-relief, or deeply and beautifully cut in the stone. Entering the huge gateway, we came to a court 275 by 330 feet, with a corridor and columns on each side. Through the centre of the court were the remains of two rows of six immense columns each, and of two colossal statues. Through another gateway the great Hall of Columns is entered, 330 by 170 feet, having through the centre two rows of columns each 12 feet at the base, and 90 high, being the largest in the world. One hundred 84 LETTER XI. and twenty-two other columns supported the roof of the sides of this vast hall, 102 of which ai-e now standing, each being 42 feet high, by 9 feet diameter at the base. Passing through this, between two lofty pyramidal towers into another court, having the remains of two obelisks, two other towers are passed, and another court entered, in which stands a red granite obelisk 92 feet high and 8 at the base, its companion lying in a broken mass by its side. Tower after tower, court after court is passed, until finally the holy place, or Temple of Amun, the blue god, or Jupiter of the Egyptians, is reached. From this, still extending east from the river, is the palace of Thothmes the Third, with its 32 square and 20 round columns, corresponding in size to the temple. Hav- ing feasted our eyes on all these wonders for hours, we took our lunch in the Hall of Columns, and then rode to the ruins of the temple of the cat-headed gods or sphinxes, of fine black giranite. There) must have been nearly a hundred of these originally, many of which are left, some nearly entire on their pedestals, others in broken frag- ments strewed around. An avenue 1,000 feet in length, bordered by colossal ram sphinxes, &g., once led from this to one of the principal soiithern gates, the huge pylons of which are now standing, and portions of the sphinxes yet remain. Passing back by the salt lakes within the enclosures of the temples, we examined the interesting scenes wrought in the exterior walls of the great edifice. On[the southern wall of the Hall of Columns, beside the entrance, is the colossal bas-relief of Shishak, mentioned in the Bible (1 Kings xiv. 25, and 2 Chronicles xii.), identified by his VIEW OP THEBES. 85 cartouche. This King of Egypt is represented as receiv- ing the captured countries in his expedition to Jerusalem, among them the kingdom of Solomon. This identifica- tion was made the present century by Champollion, on his way to Upper Egypt, who read in an oval by the characters on it the name of Melek Aiudah, or the King of Judah. We next rode out of the front entrance to the gateway on the north side, now standing, the paint on the figures of which, in ochre, blue, and a beautiful red, is still fresh. A ride on the high mounds covering the walls around the temples afforded an extraoi'dinary picture of mingled beauty of nature and art. The mountains, of yellow limestone, against a bright blue sky, the river, like a mirror, with a broad carpet of bright green clumps of palm and other trees, and the remains of ancient Thebes, "the city of a hundred gates," as described by Homer, were spread out before us. Returning to our boat, the Governor and Mustapha Aga dined with us by appointment. Mohamed El Adli and our cook and ser- vants did wonders in providing and serving up a dinner in princely style. The following day was devoted to visiting the great tombs of the kings, far distant in the mountains opposite Thebes, requiring a good day's work to examine. The most celebrated are those of Belzoni, Bruce, and Nos. 6 and 9. The first is that of King Sethos, father of Sesos- tris, and extends on an inclined plane, with 200 steps, 320 feet in length and 90 perpendicular depth, into the sides of the mountain of limestone rock, with several apartments, pillared and arched, entirely covered with 86 LETTER XI. sculptured figures in bas-relief, and colored. The Bruce tomb extends 405 feet into the mountain, through solid rock, and was the resting-place of King Rameses the Third. The sarcophagus of granite is in Paris, minus the cover, which was carried to England. No. 9, that of Rameses the Fifth, is one of the finest tombs, and is 342 feet long and 24 wide, with a vaulted hall at its termina- tion, supported by pillars. This is covered with curious figures representing the supposed condition of departed souls. No. 6, of Rameses the Seventh, is 243 feet in length, and contains some novel figures. We returned to our boat early in the afternoon, having ridden fifteen miles and explored 1,300 feet of a continual picture-gal- lery, under ground, by the light of candles (torches not being now allowed) carried in our hands. The day following, we took another ride to Karnak, to take a final view, and the next, after paying a last visit to the Memnonium and the two Colossi across the river, we cast off our fasts, and bid adieu to Thebes as the evening guns were celebrating the end of the long Mo- hammedan fast of thirty days. LETTER XII. ARRIVAL AT KENNBH. JAR-MAKING. VISITS TO AND FROM THE GOVERNOR. A DAY's SHOOTING. RUINS OF ABY- DUS. NIKILBH. PIGEON-SHOOTING. SIOOT. VIEW PROM STABL ANTAR. — MANFALOOT. A GALE OFF ABOO- FAYDA. RHODA. ITS GREAT SUGAR-WORKS. THE TOMBS • OF BBNI-HASSAN. ARRIVAL AT MINIEH. After leaving Thebes, the wind was so strong ahead the next two days, that we had to lie by the shore several times, which enabled us to have some good shooting. On arriving at Kenneh, the second day at noon, we all took donkeys and rode to town, a mile and a half distant. It being the last of the three days of feasting and rejoi- cing succeeding the fast of Ramadan, the place was more than ordinarily interesting. Wishing to see the process of making the celebrated water-jars that have been made here during 3,000 years, we went to one of the principal manufactories, where for backsheesh the workmen showed us the hand-moulding of the clay jars, vases, &c., on a turn-wheel, and done as skilfully and rapidly as glass- blowing. There are 14,000 inhabitants in this town, and the Governor here has a jurisdiction over a population of 450,000, extending into Nubia. We called on him, when he had coffee and cigars served in Turkish fashion, and 88 LETTER XII. presented flowers to the ladies. He and the resident phy- sician, who was present, spoke good French, and as we found them agreeable, they were invited to visit us in the evening on board. They accepted, and came with ser- vants and torches, the Governor bringing a handsome backgammon-board of Turkish manufacture to play with the ladies. They seemed much to enjoy their three hours' entertainment. We remained the next day for shooting, as game was abundant, while the ladies took another ride to town with El Adli. We had about four hours' very satisfac- tory sport, without having to go more than half a mile from our boat. Just as we were ready to leave, some American friends arrived in a Dahabeeh from the Cataract. The two succeeding days, strong head-winds prevailed, which obliged us to tie up twice, and with the exception of meeting a Dahabeeh and a steamer, the quiet of our happy home was disturbed by no incident, giving us the desired time for reading, writing, &c. The next morning, February 10th, found us lying at Bellianeh, 8 miles from Abydus, the ruins of which we had notified our Dragoman we desired to see. While we were getting ready for the ride, some of the natives on the bank of the river improvised a dance in the style of the Ghawazees. Our ride was uncommonly pleasant, with a breeze to cool the heat of a hot sun. Fields of wheat, barley, beans, linseed, and clover, the three last in full blossom, covered the entire plain, while a large num- ber of buffaloes, oxen, camels, black sheep, and goats were feeding upon the extensive fields of clover, watched by their owners, who with their families were distributed THE TEMPLE OP OSIRIS. 89 over the landscape in high cane-built shelters, without roofs, opening to the south. Arriving at the temple, we found it sunken nearly to its roof in dirt and rubbish j but its interior had been excavated, into which we rode by a steep declivity. Four rows of huge columns, of curious but ungraceful pattern, supported a peculiarly built roof. On each side were seven arched apartments, the whole covered with finely executed and colored hieroglyphics. It was begun by Osiris the First, and finished by Rameses the Great. A quarter of a mile to the north of this are the remains of tbe lower portion of one of the most beautiful structures of ancient Egypt, now with its foundations buried up in sand and rubbish. This was the celebrated temple of Osiris, who, it is said, was buried here. It was finished by Rameses the Great, who enriched it by a magnificent sanctuary, the walls of which were faced with Oriental alabaster. Two colossal figures, two obelisks of red gran- ite, two of black granite, and many statues of the same material lie broken up and strewn around. On returning to our boat and starting for Sioot, we got on a sand-bar so fast, that it required the ballast to to be shifted and a hard tug at the warps, of five hours, to get off, during which the sailors were in the water a part of the time. The following day, we passed an Eng- lish boat, the " Ibis," bound up, and some sporting was had ashore while our men stopped to kill a sheep. The passenger steamer was met, with a large party of Ameri- cans, who saluted us by displaying the Stars and Stripes forward, they being under Egyptian colors. A high wind off Shekh Harida caused a rocking of our boat, for the 90 LETTER XII. first time, to such a degree that obliged us to tie up a while. The morning of the 13th brought us to Nikileh, a Copt village not mentioned in the guide-books. It is a pretty place, and on going up the river, we had observed game to be plenty, especially pigeons, which determined us to stop on our return. On the fields, within a couple of miles of the town, we shot six dozen, among scattered birds, as it is rare to get at a large flock. We arrived early the next morning at Sioot, where we took a walk in the grounds and garden of a wealthy merchant be- fore leaving for the city, some distance from the river. It is the largest and most picturesque town of any in Upper Egypt. Its thirteen minarets, backed by the lofty range of the Libyan hills, look very pretty on approach- ing it by a causeway lined with trees and overlooking fine gardens. This, our second, visit was mainly to ascend Stabl Antar, visit the tombs, and get the magnificent view of the Libyan hills. Our donkeys carried us part way up, the rest of which, to the tombs, had to be ac- complished on foot. The subterranean receptacles for the dead were of little interest to us, after visiting those of the kings at Thebes, but on ascending farther to the summit, we were richly rewarded by the finest view we had yet seen in Egypt. The ranges of mountains on both sides of the Nile, the Libyan desert, extending as far as the eye could reach, in the clear atmosphere of Egypt, bordered by the bright and varied green shades of the rich valley, a fine bird's-eye view of the city, and, almost directly below us, that of the extensive, beau- tifully white, and neatly built cemetery, rivalling in MANFALOOT. 91 extent and beauty the city of the living, the serpentine Nile, and the numerous sails of boats, which appeared in the far distance like birds on the wing, — these made up a picture which tempted us to linger and enjoy. Another visit to the bazaars, where we met the party of a steamer just arrived, and more purchases made, then we were off again. The evening was calm, with a bright moon, the men rowing and singing. So ended another day of our happy voyage, which we regretted was so fast drawing to a close. We passed Manfaloot before we had risen from our beds, but as the Reis stopped just below to give the crew their breakfast and make some purchases, I took a walk to explore the town. Finding it worth a visit, though barely mentioned in the guide-books, we detained the boat, and after breakfast all of us walked through the town, which we found comparatively clean and interest- ing. Much of it was washed away some years since, but it has since been rebuilt, has several mosques, five with minarets, and a Coptic church, which we visited, contain- ing some very old paintings. It has a large and well- supplied bazaar (in which we bought some tea), a steam flour-mill, and a large trade in wheat. There were about thirty boats lying at its bank. A governor resides here, and we saw a number of liquor-shops, cafes, Janissaries, Ghawazees (dancing-girls) in this town of ten thousand inhabitants, generally unvisited by Nile tourists ! We left at nearly noon, with a moderate breeze, which in- creased to a gale as we reached, at 5 p. m., the dreaded clifi's of Aboofayda, obliging us to " about ship " and run under them for shelter, as the wind made it too rough 92 LETTER XII. for the low decks of a Dahabeeh. I ascended the cliff as far as I could in a lateral direction, about three hundred feet above the river, passing yawning caves and chasms. A portion of these extensive cliffs was hanging almost directly over our boat. During the night, the wind con- tinued to blow very hard. Our Dragoman advised us to look well to our arms, as this place was infested by Bed- ouins, and a robbery had taken place here only a short time before, of some native merchants in a boat, which was boarded by a party of this lawless tribe. Though distrusting any cause for fear, we were not unmindful of his advice, but were only disturbed by the cries of our watchful sentinels, who had been posted on the occasion. The gale having subsided early in the morning, we left our singular moorings, and the crew plied the oars. During the day, geese and ducks being very plentiful on the sand- bars, I made several excursions after them, accompanied by the Doctor, in our small boat ; but they proved a wild-goose chase, as our guns would not carry far enough, and we realized more fully than ever the want of a good modern rifle. We arrived in the evening at Khoda, and took a stroll around the palace and gardens of the Viceroy by moonlight. Afterwards we went into the great sugar- house, where a full complement of men were at work by gaslight at the grinding-mills, and tending the boiling and bleaching apparatus. The Arabs who were bringing in the cane from the great yard to the mill, were hurried up by three drivers, who made an indiscriminate use of a long Icoorhash continually over them. The next morning, I took a walk to the cane-field, to witness the manner of cutting. The noise of a thousand THE SUGAR-HOUSE AT RHODA. 93 tongues filled the air before I emerged from the grove of trees which skirt the shore. I soon came to an im- mense field of sugar-cane, where a multitude of fellaheen were busily employed in cutting. Overseers mounted on swift horses were riding around, hurrj^ing them up. The cane is hacked up at the root with a short-handled hoe, and is then taken from the heaps and trimmed ready for the camels' backs, and the mill. Returning to the boat after breakfast, we all visited the sugar-works and palace of the Viceroy. The former cover a great space, and embrace a handsome brick edifice 320 feet long and 100 broad, having at either end two wings 150 feet deep each, crossing and projecting front 50 feet, forming a large area, in which is a large reservoir enclosed by an iron fence, with handsome gates and gaslights in large glass globes. In the rear is another area, with a large elegant monumental gaslight stand in centre. Surrounding it are curing and refining houses, while contiguous are ex- tensive work and machine shops, steam water-elevators and storehouses, all of brick, built in European style. Facing the river near by, are brick cottages with window- glass and outside blinds, each with a garden, for the employes. These works have eight tall chimneys, and em- ploy eight steam-engines of 20 to 40 horse-power, 1,200 men, and 2,500 to 3,000 camels. Mr. Mein, the engineer, from England, says he put up the engines six years ago, and that the amount of brown sugar made here in the season of two months is about 70,000 moulds of 85 lbs. each, or about six million pounds, besides a proportion of rum distilled, and molasses. We next took a walk to the Viceroy's new palace. 94 LETTER XII. finished a year ago, but yet unfurnished. It is on a novel plan by a Greek architect, and combines Italian, Grecian, and Oriental styles. Already it has cost 400,000 dollars, and is a monument of the folly and extravagance of the present despotic ruler of Egypt. He is a great mei'chant, and monopolizes the manufacture of sugar, the railroads, steam navigation of the Nile, and many other great enterprises, and his revenues and expenditures sur- pass belief. We were shown all over this one of his numerous palaces, and the fine garden contiguous, hand- somely laid out in European style. Returning to the "Gazelle," we left for the tombs of Beni-Hassan, a short dis- tance down the river, having reached the shore of which, we were all speedily mounted on donkeys for the Specs Antimados of Diana, a grotto two miles distant. While here, we encountered some American friends arrived in their Dahabeeh, and all rode to see the curious tombs to the north, about the same distance. We found them as represented, exceedingly interesting from the perfect fig- ures painted on the walls, illustrating in a remarkable manner the habits and customs of the ancient Egyptians under the Pharaohs. The style of the columns, from which the Doric are said to have originated, is polygonal, lightly moulded ; they are 16|^feet high, and 5 in diameter. The space between them is divided into a principal nave and two aisles, arched between, each architrave supported by pillars. We had a very pleasant ride to our boat, and left in company with our friends for Minieh (or Mineeyeh), where we arrived on a calm moonlight evening, just in time for a walk ashore and the sight of a bridal procession by torchlight. LETTER XIII. MINIEH. ITS SUGAR-WORKS. VICEROY'S PALACE. DE- LAYS AND EXCURSIONS ON THE RIVER. PYRAMIDS IN SIGHT. ARRIVAL AT GHIZEH. WASHINGTON'S BIRTH- DAY. ASCENT OP, OLD CHEOPS. ARRIVAL AT BOULAK, AND END OP VOY'AGE. ANOTHER DAY, AND THE LAST ON THE " GAZELLE." TEMPERATURE AND WEATHER DURING THE TRIP. THE NILE FLEET. It is with no small degree of satisfaction and relief that I commence this concluding letter of a series too long extended. When in the Crimea, at the close of the war, I sent a few unsolicited sketches to a journal for my friends to read, it was because the scenes and events were extraordinary, and letter-writers there were but few. So, on the Nile, I found such a novelty in scenes and life, though admirably portrayed by accomplished writers, that the subject, I thought, would be compai'atively new and interesting to many who have not had access to the volumes of Prime, Warburton, Wilkinson, Lane, and others. This is my apology for giving a journal of our voyage, in addition to what I at first intended to be merely some useful hints and directions to Nile tourists. My last letter left us arrived at the town of Minieh, where there are other very extensive steam sugar-works 96 LETTER XIII. of the Viceroy, which cover a space of five acres. The buildings, of brick and granite, have five tall chimneys, one that I measured being 15 feet square at base; an- other, of an octagon shape, 13 feet in diameter, and I should judge of at least 220 feet in height. There are five engines and two cylinder mills for grinding, manu- factured in France, and put up under the direction of a French engineer. An immense quantity of brown and loaf sugar was on hand in the curing-houses. The mo- lasses is put up in the earthen jars from Kenneh, holding about 10 gallons, and is of superior quality. A large and handsome distilling apparatus, made by Pouderoix & Mangen, Paris, had just been put up by them, having copper stills 10 feet in diameter, and 36 large reservoirs. The Viceroy has built a new palace here, similar to that described at Rhoda. It has four projecting piazzas from its four recessed sides, instead of their being flush like the other. The garden around it was filled with Euro- pean and tropical trees, and plenty of nectarines, roses, oranges, &c., were in blossom. While here, a party of English and Americans in the Dahabeeh "Maria Louise," under their national colors, arrived, exchanged salutes, and visited us on board. They were from Cairo, bound up, and were glad to get a late New York paper, only five weeks old. After leaving Minieh, I had another fruitless chase after pelicans, but succeeded in shooting a duck. The following morning being very fine and calm, I was again tempted out in the small boat, at an early hour, by the sight of a huge solitary pelican, looking more like a boat than a bird in the water, with his great head and bill immersed in the stream, searching for his breakfast. ARRIVAL AT BENISOBF. 97 Such a prize would, have been worth the price of a Bal- lard rifle, and I dare say friend Kimball, of the Boston Museum, would have presented me with one, had I brought the skin of the monster home for his collection. The want of such an arm probably saved the bird's trans- portation to Boston, as he would, have been an easy shot. Three Government steamers were passed this morning, and later, another passenger steamer. At a village called El Meragher, the Viceroy is building extensive sugar- works. Benisoef was reached in the evening, 77 miles miles from Cairo. The number of steamers and sailing- boats, the activity of laborers on the various public works on the shore, indicated our approach to a great metro- polis. The day was occupied in writing, packing up, &c., and in making another gunning excursion of half an hour, from which I brought home a duck. Just after, about sunset, our Dahabeeh got fast on a sand-bar. It was nearly midnight before the crew, with hard work, could get her off. This was annoying to our Dragoman, especially as we were to have terminated our voyage next day, by an ascent to the Pyramids from Ghizeh. Going on deck the next morning, I found it calm, every- thing indicating a hot day. The Pyramids of Dashoor and Sakkara were in sight, and soon after, those of Ghizeh, and the citadel of Cairo. The crew were singing their Arab Wile songs, accompanied by the drums and tambourines, while one of them gave a specimen of dancing. The ducks and geese tempted me, with the Doctor, to make another excursion in the small boat. The " Gazelle " drifted two miles ahead, and a breeze springing up, we found ourselves and our two oarsmen no match 7 98 LETTER XIII. for her ; so we got a native wheat-boat, that sailed fast, to take us in tow, and soon overhauled her, as she carried but the small sail. The wind veered ahead by noon, and blew so strong, that it obliged us to lie at Tonra, only four miles from Ghizeh. Two Dahab^ehs were passed to- day, one with a French party bound up, another with a party of ten Americans and Scotch on a three days' ex- cursion to visit the Pyramids and Memphis. The wind abating, gave us the desired opportunity to reach Ghizeh in the evening, where we made fast to the shore that we had left just eight weeks before. February 22d. — The delay of a day by sand-bar and wind was fortunate, as it enabled us to celebrate this anniversary in a becoming manner, gave us propitious weather for ascending the Pyramids, and ended our Nile voyage. Our deck was trimmed with all the bunting we could muster, and the Stars and Stripes hoisted to a salute of 13 guns. The wind from the northwest was just enough for comfort. Our donkeys were sent over in the ferry from Old Cairo, and we were all mounted by nine o'clock for the Pyramids, 6 miles distant. When we arrived at the base of " Old Cheops," tents wex'e being put up for a party from the Viceroy's Hai-em, that were to visit it next day. The guides beset us as usual, but our Dragoman saved us all trouble, by bargaining with their Sheikh at the tariff price of one dollar for each person, with three guides, for ascending or entering the Pyramid. It being somewhat windy, none of the party but the Doctor accompanied me in the ascent. Having put my- self in good climbing trim, and provided with a small American flag, and an extra " pocket pistol " as a sanitary ASCENT OP "old CHEOPS." 99 precaution, I dismissed one of the guides, and would have done so with the second, but that was not allowable. Without hurrying myself, I made the ascent to the sum- mit easily in fifteen minutes, assisted at times by only one of the attendants, and displayed the flag to those looking on from below, saluting it with discharges from one of my pistols. The portly form of the Doctor soon made its appearance, and a party of Frenchmen followed. With fourteen guides, we all made a party of twenty-one per- sons on the broken apex of Cheops, a space of about twenty square feet, though looking from below very diminutive. We remained three quarters of an hour here, during which our guides were employed in cutting our names in the stones after our own drawings. On descending, we met at the entrance of the Pyramid the rest of our party. The passage looked so small, gloomy, and on so inclined a plane, that only Mr. L. and Miss R. ventured with me to visit the King and Queen's chamber. To penetrate by the descending and ascending tortuous and narrow pas- sage, with the uncertain light of candles, to the King's chamber, in the heart of this mass of mammoth masonry, requires more exertion than to ascend its summit. It was satisfactorily accomplished by those who undertook it, for when once in, it is hard backing out. But if one has courage, the guides will "put you through." Noth- ing but a large empty room was found there, but the passage to it, so artfully and ingeniously concealed for so many thousand years, must be seen to be realized. These enduring monuments of the folly and power of one man, of skill of design, and of patient labor in their erection, are too well known to require any description from me. 100 LETTER XIII. I may, however, remind my readers that this largest of the three gi'eat Pyramids (there are six smaller ones) covers eleven acres of ground, has a base of 764 feet each way, and is 480 feet high, or 40 feet higher than twice the height of Bunker Hill Monument. 100,000 men, it is estimated, were employed 10 years in making the cause- way on which to convey the stone, and 360,000 men for 20 years in building it. The next in size, built 2083 b. c, is but little inferior in dimensions. The Sphinx somewhat disappointed me, though it is seen at great disadvantage, being so much buried in ruins. The tomb discovered by Colonel Howard Vyse, and the great one of red granite recently found by a Frenchman, were surpi-isingly large and interesting. In the excavated one of the latter we took our lunch, and then returned to our boat. Here we dined, while floating down to Boulak, where we dropped anchor, and at sunset fired a national salute as we struck our flag. Our voyage on the Nile was now ended ; but at the invitation of our generous El Adli, we decided to spend the following day and night on the " Gazelle." The last day on the Nile was a lovely one. Our Drago- man engaged donkeys for the gentlemen, and attended us to the hotel to engage rooms, and to the bankers, where a large lot of letters and papers awaited us. To the credit of our Reis, crew, and servants, they all remained on board to await our departure. At noon, we tripped anchor for the berth of the " Gazelle," a mile farther down the river, passing the Viceroy's palace and his six splendid steam yachts (thi'ee belonging to his harem), and two immense Dahab^ehs. We found at the moorings on the shore of Boulak, 17 Dahabeehs, among them our old companion, END OF THE VOYAGE. 101 the " Zarifa," laid up. Mahomed El Adli gave us a sump- tuous dinner, and the flags were hauled down for the last time. The evening was employed in settling up, making presents to captain, crew, cooks, and servants, and last, though not least, giving £30, or $150 to oiir Dragoman, his boat and other expenses having cost him about that sum more than what he estimated when we acepted his ofier for the ISTile voyage, and in considei'ation of his lib- erality and uniform kindness. The old songs were sung over by our faithful, ever-kind, obedient, and respectful Arab crew, and we retired from our cosey parlor at a late hour. After breakfast, we took leave of all that had contributed so much to the happiness of sixty-five days, every one of us regretting that the time had not been extended. In closing the narrative of the voyage, I fulfil a prom- ise to give the result of my daily record of the thermome- ter and state of wind and weather, which will be found in the Appendix. The temperature of the interior of our Dahabeeh, which' at no time had any artificial heat save that from our French carcel lamp, was within from 3 to 5 degrees of the temperature of the outside, except in the evening. The lowest ranges of the thermometer during the 65 days on the river were at sunrise in the saloon, Jan. 3d, 45°; Feb. 15th, 45°; and Feb. 16th, 46° ; and the highest at same hour and place were Dec. 21st, 65° ; Jan. 1st, 62° ; Jan. 7th, 64° ; Jan. 20th, 62°. The average of the 11 days in December at that time of day was a fraction over 57° ; that of 31 days in January, about the same, and 23 days of February, 51^°. The lowest range at 2 p. m. was 65° on four several days in 102 LETTER XIII. December, and one in February. The highest was Jan. 15th, 19th, 21st, 22d, and 23d, when it stood at 80°. The average of the 1 1 days in December at that hour was 68|°, that of the 31 days in January, 75^°, and 23 days in February, 70°, During the whole period, there was a remarkable uniformity in the temperature of the cabin in the evening until 10 p. m., when it varied fi'om 65° to 70°, and averaged 68°. Of the 65 days, 17 were calm and clear; 22 clear, with moderate breezes; 17 clear, with fresh breezes, and 7 partly or wholly cloudy, rarely the latter. The prevailing winds were 12 days southerly, 29 northerly, varying mostly to the west, and one day west wind. There were only two foggy morn- ings, and not a shower of rain the whole period, save a slight sprinkle at Thebes. The Nile fleet that we saw or heard from while on the river numbered 30 Dahabeehs, 17 of which were under American, 10 under English, and three under French flags. As there were this season a larger number of Americans than usual who wished to make the voyage in steamers, the Egyptian line was well patronized, for the reason of there being no other. Besides sending one Dahabeeh every twenty days, several extra ones were ob- tained by parties when a sufficient number warranted. The greater number of these passengers, amounting per- haps to about 150, were Americans. Much complaint was made that the food on some of the boats was insuf- ficient, and unfit to eat, and with good reason, as I know of some passengers that were made seriously ill by un- wholesome food. I have not the particulars to give, but the matter was brought to the notice of our Consul at COMPLAINTS AGAINST THE RIVER COMPANY, 103 Cairo, and damages sought to be recovered from the pro- prietors, — with what success I know not ; but I think the Company will, for their own interests, correct the errors of the past season, or else had better give up- running their boats for passengers. END OF THE VOYAGE. TOUR IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE. LETTER I. PREPARATIONS IN CAIRO. CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. CARAVAN AND MILITARY SPECTACLE. VISIT TO SUEZ AND THE RED SEA, THE CANAL. THE NEW PORT AND DRY-DOCK. LEAVE CAIRO FOR ALEXANDRIA. CARNIVAL. DEPARTURE FROM EGYPT. DIFFICULT LANDING AT JAFFA. This journey had been determined upon by the "R. W. L." party of the Nile before the voyage was ended, and all were desirous to engage our Dragoman with his cook and servants, that had attended us so satisfactorily on the river, for our tent life in the Holy Land. They had all been there before, and were acquainted with the mode of travelling, management of tents, baggage, horses, &c. Our first object, after arriving at the hotel in Cairo on the 25 th of February, was to consult Mohamed El Adli on the subject, determine our route, the length of the journey, and get from him his lowest price for a given 106 LETTER I. number of days, to include everything needed that is customary for the entire trip. We decided to have new tents and equipage, canteen, English side-saddles, and a palanquin, to be purchased in Cairo, and to start from Alexandria for Jaffa by the French steamer of the 7th of March. Our Dragoman's terms were accepted, and the contract drawn up and signed as usual. The following is an exact copy : — "Agreement made between H. R, "W. W. W., and C. H. L., of the first part, and Mohamed El Adli, of Alexan- dria, Dragoman, of the second part, witnesseth : "1st. That the said Mohamed El Adli agrees to act as Dragoman and servant to the above parties, including Miss R., Mrs. W., and Mrs. L. (six in number), during a tour in Syria and Palestine, commencing at Jaffa or Beyrout, and to include Jerusalem, Hebron, Bethlehem, Rachel's Tomb, Pools of Solomon, Dead Sea, the Jordan, and Jericho, Damascus, Baalbec, Lebanon, and the Cedars, by whatever route said parties of the first part may choose, through Palestine and the Holy Land, or partly by the Mediterranean. " The fares on steamers from Alexandria to Jaffa and Beyrout and back to Alexandria for the Dragoman, ser- vants, cook, expenses of freight on tents, provisions, and everything except the wines and personal baggage of the six persons above named, to be paid by Mohamed El Adli, who is also to furnish five good horses,^ with suit- able bridles, three new English side-saddles, three good saddles for the gentlemen, a 'caravan' or palanquin, of 1 The palanquiu having been abandoned, another horse, making six in all, was provided. CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 107 suitable size, for two ladies, with four mules, and when required in cities for the daily use of the party not wish- ing to use the palanquin, another horse is to be provided ; also a sufficient number of mules for carrying the personal baggage, wines, &c., of the party of sis, whenever and wherever required, during the entire tour. Also two tents, of 1 2 ropes each, for the ladies and gentlemen, with a separate cabinet to each complete, a dining tent of 14 ropes, and a kitchen tent, with flags, &c., to be properly furnished with new bedsteads, beds, and sufficient bed- ding for each person, including tent furniture and equip- ments as is customary, and all to be of best quality. Also to furnish provisions of all kinds, except wines, necessary for the journey that are usually provided, two good servants, a first-class cook, three attendants for the ladies' horses or palanquin, with guards, guides, &c., whenever required. " 2d. The pace of the horses, the length of each day's journey, and the time of starting, as well as the route, to be decided by the party of the first part, who are to have perfect command and control over the movements of all persons with them connected in this tour. All the horses, mules, and palanquin to be at the disposition at all times of said party. " 3d. Mohamed El Adli is to furnish said party of six with three meals a day, at such hours as they may choose ; but it is expressly agreed that if any one or all of the party should, from cold or unpleasant weather, or any other discomfort of tent life, deem it more prudent or agreeable, they are at liberty to stop at any hotel or convent they may elect, instead of in camp, when 108 LETTER I. and where they choose, and that such expense at hotels or convents during the journey, except wines, is to be paid by the said Dragoman, who is also to pay all back- sheesh, fees, or presents, necessary or customary, to all persons in any way connected with the journey, excur- sions, or sight-seeing, excepting only the two waiters and cook, so that the said party of six shall not be under obligation to pay anything except what is set forth spe- cially in this contract. Neither are they to be held responsible for any damage to horses, mules, tents, or other articles used on the journey. Everything con- nected with the furnishing by said Dragoman to be in readiness at Alexandria by the seventh day of March next, to embark on board the steamer of the Messageries Impdriales, or any other leaving after that date. " 4th. In consideration of the performance of the fore- going agi'eement on the part of the said Dragoman, the party of the first part engage that the tour shall extend at least to the term of 30 days from its commencement, and to pay him eleven pounds sterling each day of said term, which is to be in full payment of all expenses named in the agreement aforesaid ; and should the term exceed 30 days, to pay at the same rate. Should any one or more of the party of six persons wish to leave at Jerusalem, Jaffa, or Beyrout before the expiration of the 30 days, they may do so by paying for the remainder of the number of days of the term half price, or eighteen shillings fourpence each person per diem. The time of the voyage between Jaffa and Beyrout, if made by steamer, to be deducted from the 30 days' pay to the Dragoman at the rate of £11 per diem, and the six fares on board to be paid by the said party of six. CONTRACT WITH DRAGOMAN. 109 " 5th. The money to be paid to the Dragoman, and advances made, as follows : One hundred and fifteen pounds to be paid at Cairo, the receipt of which he hereby acknowledges ; eighty-five pounds at Alexandria ; ten pounds at Jerusalem ; and thirty pounds at Beyrout. The balance to be paid on final retiirn to Beyrout and conclusion of the above contract. " In case of any disagreement between the parties, the whole matter is to be referred for final decision to the United States Consul-General at Alexandria. "Witness our hands this 27th day of Feb. 1867, at Cairo. " (Signed) C. H. L. for self and party, " and seal of Mohambd El Adli." The time for preparation by El Adli being quite short (only eight days), the tents and palanquin were ordered by him at once ; saddles, beds, bedding, tent furniture, table and kitchen ware were purchased, and then he left for Alexandria to get his supply of provisions ready, to return for us by the 5th, leaving his elder brother Mus- tapha (a Dragoman just returned from a Nile voyage) in charge, whom he had engaged to take with him as an assistant on our journey. Our cook and servants were re-engaged, and the preparations progressed rapidly. During the eight days that we remained in Cairo, we witnessed a novel spectacle, or ceremony, which, also with our visit to Suez and the Red Sea, I will describe. The ceremony is an annual one, performed in Cairo pre- paratory to the starting of the caravan with the pilgrims for Mecca. We took carriages for the citadel, in front of 110 LETTER I. which the procession was to pass, and obtained an excel- lent position directly on the line kept by the guards and police. The gi-eat area behind us was completely filled with the multitude of varied Oriental costumes and com-' plexions of the native population, interspersed with a few foreigners. The procession occujjied an hour and a half in passing our carriages, and consisted of about 5,000 regular troops, numerous camels richly covered, bearing pilgrims, and accompanied with fantastically dressed der- vishes. The following was the order of marching : — Twenty camels, gaily decorated and furnished for the pilgTimage complete. Mounted military police. Chief magistrate of Cairo splendidly dressed and mounted. Military escort, consisting of pioneers, two bands of music, one regiment of foot chasseurs, with rifles and swoi'd-bayonets, two regiments of infantry, and bands with white and yellow uniforms, a regiment of 600 lan- cers dressed in blue jackets, with yellow trimmings and red trousers, their lances with green and crimson pen- nons, a mounted band of music preceding them, generals and staff, four squadrons of cavalry, two with red and two with white horses, a mounted band, four batteries of artillery, men mounted and dressed in red and blue uni- forms armed with short rifles and sword-bayonets, mount- ed police, a brilliant staff of officers and guards. The Cover of the Tombs of the Proj)hets, borne on camels, appearing like a lai'ge and highly decorated catafalque, the camels richly caparisoned, guards, a squadron of cavalry, fifteen camels completely covered with rich and gay housings of cloth wrought with various colored beads and feathers, and a mounted guard with band of music. SUEZ. Ill I omit any further description, as I found it impossible to obtain any reliable information in explanation of this ceremony, and left the whole subject, to occupy myself with pi'eparations for our own pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Three days were spent in writing letters home, visiting the bazaars, and then on the first day of March we were all behind the " iron horse," spanning the desert which intervenes between Cairo and Suez. The scenery after leaving Heliopolis behind us (already described in Nile Letter No. 5) was a continued desert, with gently undu- lating sand-hills, or a rolling prairie of sand. At the half-way station is an oasis, or pretty cottage restaurant with flowers around it, its interior filled up as a museum of natural history, with implements of hunting and war- fare tastefully arranged. We arrived at half-past three, p. M., in five hours and a half from Cairo. The second- class carriages are very comfortable, and will save a need- less expense. We found the hotel at Suez the best in the East, without exception ; it is kept by an employ^ of the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Company on a liberal scale, under the Company's control. The same evening we all took a walk to the other side of the bay, and saw a party start off on camels for Jerusalem, by way of Mount Sinai. Here we also visited the great Canal exca- vation made within two years, in the bed of which was a thick incrustation of salt on the water deposit. Our walk was extended on our return through the little but thriving town grown up of late years by the business created by the large number of workmen on the Canal and pprt, and on the public works of the Viceroy. Having engaged the excellent guide, Joseph, we em- 112 LETTER I. barked in a sailing-boat for a visit down the bay to the dry-dock and other objects of interest. This fine speci- men of masonry, constructed by the pi'esent Viceroy, was commenced in 1863, and finished in 1866. It is 450 feet long by 100 broad. The new port now building for ves- sels by the Canal Company will require 3 to 4,000 blocks of concrete, each twelve feet by six, and five feet high, to construct the breakwater. They are made on the spot, and require three months' time to dry them. French, laborers, engineers, and superintendents were very ac- tively engaged on these extensive works. We sailed far- ther down the bay, where was anchored the fleet of the Viceroy, consisting of a steam frigate and five smaller steamers, besides several European vessels, among them the fine P. & 0. Co.'s steamer, the " Suratt," of the Cal- cutta line. She is 3,000 tons, 700 horse-power, and 350 feet in length, making the voyage (touching at Aden and Point de Galle) in 28 days. The fare first-class is £75. We were politely received by the officers on going aboard, and were shown her spacious and sumptuous accommo- dations. On returning to the inner but shallow har- bor, where it is said Moses crossed, we landed to look at the new fi-eshwater canal, finished about two years since. Its locks and boats indicate considerable business between the valley of the Nile and Suez. On our return to our hotel, a fine view of the sur- rounding scenery was had from its roof, and a spare hour was devoted by our Doctor R. in enjoying a bath from a small boat in the waters of the Red Sea, while he whistled, as he told us, the march of "Moses in Egypt." I visited with him and Mr. L. in the evening a cafe ALBXANDBIA. 113 chantant, where we heard some excellent singing of oper- atic music. The nest morning we reluctantly left this comfortable town, where a few days can be pleasantly spent by trav- ellers in Egypt, if time will allow. On our return to Cairo, arriving at our hotel, we found our tents pitched in front on the great Square for our examination, and we were pleased with the roomy accommodation. The fol- lowing day was devoted to packing up, and El Adli, who had returned from Alexandria, took charge of our effects, to send them with his by rail. The 5th of the month at 8 o'clock we were off from the station, and soon took our last look of the city and of its prominent citadel. Arriving at Alexandria at 2 p. M., we found it in a state of high carnival. The streets were full of grotesque and other kinds of costumes, with and without masks, while the population of the European part of the city were to be seen in holiday array, either in carriages, at the windows, or on the promenades. A masked ball, which I did not attend, ended the carnival about daylight the following morning. The next day was occupied in shopping and entertain- ing some old friends from Smyrna established here. Our appointed sailing day was postponed to the 9th, as the " Tibre " had been detained at Marseilles two days, and had not arrived. Our time, however, was pleasantly spent, and an excellent opera enjoyed at the new opera- house. Our Consul-General, Mr. Hale, being absent on business, we left his books, kindly lent us, without having the opportunity of personally thanking him. About the last moment we received photographs of our Dragoman 114 LETTER I. and servants from Cairo, where they had been taken for us. Early in the morning, El Adli was promptly on hand to take charge of our luggage at the Hotel Abbatt, and conduct us on board the steamer, A strong wind from the W. N. W. was blowing, which had prevailed for the three preceding days, and we reasonably expected a rough sea as soon as we cleared the port. The skies, however, were bright, and the panorama a pleasing one, as we steamed from this large mart of commerce, its port filled with shipping, while the city, with its half-Oriental look, the windmills on the point, and Pompey's Pillar, gradu- ally receded from sight. It was curious to see the bright blue Mediterranean change its hue by a distinct line of demarcation to a dull gray. This is caused by the Ro- setta branch of the Nile, whose waters extend into the sea a distance of ten miles. Among the passengers were Colonel J. P. Sauford, of Chicago, whose conversation was highly entertaining, and W. H. Bidwell, of the Eclectic Magazine, New York, who by the request of Secretaiy Seward was about to make some inquiries into the state of the Jaffa colonists, and report the same to him. A southwest wind prevailed the next day, and blew fresh, with heavy sea, as we approached, about noon, the shores of Jaffa, or Joppa. This town has no harbor, be- ing only an open roadstead, with the protection of a reef of rocks for small vessels to lie inside of this natural breakwater. We came to anchor a mile outside, and the possibility of landing was for a long time doubtful. A heavy swell prevailed, and the breakers near the town ARRIVAL AT JOPPA. 115 looked anything but inviting. The large boats, so ad- mirably managed by skilful Arabs, came off, and were with difficulty kept from being stove alongside. It was said there was no danger, and the disembarking com- menced. There were many others besides ourselves to land, with quantities of baggage, tents, &c. A perfect Ba- bel of voices prevailed, enormous prices were demanded, and much time was lost in making preparations. We finally succeeded in securing two large boats, embarked with some difficulty, and reached the shore at four o'clock without "shipping a sea," though tossed on waves so large that when we descended between them, the masts of our steamer were not visible. On landing, we got quarters for the night at the Latin Convent of the Franciscan brotherhood. LETTER II. AT THE CONVENT AT JAFFA. THE AMERICAN COLONY. OUR CARAVAN, AND START FOR JERUSALEM. ENCAMP- MENT AT RAMLEH. ARRIVAL AT THE HOLY CITY. TENTS PITCHED OUTSIDE ITS WALLS. A GALE AT NIGHT. VISIT TO JERUSALEM. WEATHER BAD. - — LEAVE THE TENTS FOR APARTMENTS IN THE CITY. VISIT TO THE HOLY PLACES. THE MOUNT OP OLIVES. BETHANY. GARDEN OF GETHSBMANB. LEAVE FOR HEBRON, AND A FIVE days' journey. The Latin Convent, situated close to the landing, com- mands a fine view of the Mediterranean, and the hospi- tality afforded to those who cannot obtain lodgings or meals at the small hotel is said to be the best in the town, but poor enough. Though nothing is charged, yet about 10 francs per diem for each person is expected. There is also a Russian Convent, which gladly offers its accommodations on the same terms. The monks serve you with zeal, and the one who oflficiated at our quarters was very loquacious ; he had travelled in both North and South America. We visited "the house of one Simon a tanner," which is very near the Convent, and began to realize that we were on sacred ground, though outward appearances did not indicate it. After a poor dinner, START FOR JERUSALEM. 117 with execrable wine, and a tolerable night's lodging, we made ready the next morning for camp. The weather was fine, El Adli and our servants took our personal bag- gage, reduced to a small portmanteau each, and sundry packages for the pack-mules, and we left for our horses, which, together with our tents, baggage-mules, and pa- lanquin, were outside the walls. On our way, we met and had conversation with some of the American colonists, and promised to visit them on our return. At the rendezvous for starting, we spent some time in selecting horses and getting all the mules packed. The palanquin proved to be so cumbersome, and was considered so unnecessary, unless some of us should be unable to ride, that we concluded to leave it behind, and run the risk of getting a lighter one at Jerasalem. Palanquins are very rarely used, and during our whole journey we had no occasion for one. At noon, our party were all mounted, and the mules, with tents and baggage, sent ahead, to encamp for the night at Eamleh. Our caravan consisted of, including ourselves, twenty persons, ten mules, and nine horses. Our attendants were two Dragomans, two servants, and cook, the owner of the horses and mules, three atten- dants for the ladies, and five muleteers. The road we took from Jaffa was lined with extensive gardens and orange and lemon orchards, loaded with the large and luscious fruit peculiar to this place. As we emerged from these into the open country, the view was very fine. The Plains of Sharon, beautifully green with the young crops, were brilliant with wild-flowers in great va- riety, while the distant rocky and rugged mountains we 118 LETTER II. were to pa^s had a soft gray hue. Our path (for roads there ai'e none) was an easy one, allowing us — a rarity in Syria — to trot our horses part of the way ; and by three o'clock we reached the town of Ramleh, which has a Latin convent in addition to a Greek and an Armenian one, besides two Turkish mosques and a population of 2,000. Passing through the town, we soon came in sight of our tents, all pitched and ready for us, on a grassy sward sprinkled with wild-flowers, near a pool of water. We took possession of our novel and comfortable quarters, and after a ramble over the fields, enjoyed one of those good dinners prepared by our cook and servants of the "Gazelle." Our first night's sleep in camp was sound, and undisturbed save by the tinkling bells of our mules. At half-past five o'clock in the morning we rose, break- fasted an hour later, and in another hour were all mounted for the Holy City, a long ride of nine hours. We were accompanied by a party of Americans, at the head of whom was our Nile acquaintance, the genial and generous well-known J. L. C. of Philadelphia. After having crossed the Plains of Sharon, from thence through the pass of the mountains of Ephraim Latrone, and the Valley of Elah, where David killed Goliath, noon brought us to an old ruined mosque, and under the shelter of its olive-ti'ees we spread our lunch, and rested our wearied limbs on the grass within its walls. While here, we met a party of Nile acquaintances from Jerusalem on their way to Jaffa. After resting an hour and a half, we mounted oiir horses and slowly wended our way along the stony and mountainous path. Still continuing to JERUSALEM. 119 ascend one summit after another, at six o'clock our glad eyes first beheld the towers of the Russian Convent, and soon after that of the city itself. In half an hour more we arrived at the convent, near which and the walls of the city we found our tents pitched, and gladly ex- changed our saddles for tent-chairs. After a late dinner, we sought a night's repose. The very hot weather, to- gether with such a long ride for the first time, caused much fatigue, which was borne quite as well, however, by the ladies as by the gentlemen. Towards moi'ning, our rest was broken by a sudden tempest, and all hands were roused to keep the tents secure by additional braces. They remained firm ; but the wind continuing to blow all night and morning from seaward, and our situation being too exposed, the tents were shifted nearer the walls on the side of the hill, while we paid a visit to the city. During the day the wind changed to N. W., and blew hard and cold until even- ing, when it moderated ; but during the night increased again, with some rain. The day following was a boisterous one, with driving clouds. We, however, joined some friends to make up a party for visiting the Mosque of Omar, which until re- cently had been forbidden ground to Christians. With the cavasse sent by the American Consul, and a special permission, for which about two dollars each person was paid in advance, we were conducted by an ofiicial through the Holy of Holies, for a description of which I refer to other writers. After being hvtrried through this sacred and beautiful temple of Mohammed, we next went to the Mosque of El-Aksa, on Mount Moriah, once the 120 LETTER II. Christian Church of the Virgin Mary. Having visited all the sacred places of the Mohammedans in the Harara Ech-Cherif, we returned to our tents, as the weather looked bad, and threatened rain. A consultation was had about taking quarters in one of the hotels in the city, a change provided for in our contract. El Adli proposed engaging for us furnished apartments in a good house well situated, to take his stores, cook, and servants, and furnish us our meals there. We returned to the city through the Damascus Gate, and on arriving at the house of Max Unger, were shown by his wife, a pleasant and oblig- ing woman, the apartments, very comfortably and neatly furnished, and overlooking the whole city, with the Mount of Olives and country around to the east. Our Drago- man's proposition was gladl}'' accepted, as it gave us superior accommodations and a better-served table than a hotel, though there were two first-class ones here, filled mostly with Americans, mauj from their tents. The necessary transfer was made before sunset, and we dined in our new quarters, with which the ladies were highly pleased. The next day was clear, though a cold wind prevailed, and our flags were displayed fi-om the walls in front, which rose sixty feet above the next house, directly below us. AVith our guide, we visited the Church of the Holy Sep- ulchre, the Via Dolorosa, St. Stephen's Gate, the Ai-menian Convent, Pilate's House, the Arch of the Ecce Homo, the House of Veronica, the Church of the Flagellation, the Jews' Wailing-Place, and the large stones supposed to have been part of an arched causeway connecting Mount Zion with Mount Moriah. The fine weather of the fol- BETHANY. 121 lowing morning induced us to visit the Mount of Olives. After breakfast, our horses were called in requisition, and issuing forth by the Damascus Gate, we passed around the N. E. angle of the walls, and riding directly across the Valley of Jehoshaphat, ascended the sacred mount. On its summit, we alighted to ascend the tower and enjoy the fine view from its top, extending as far as the Dead Sea. A chapel erected by Habena, mother of Constantine, stands here. There are many olive-trees, some of great age, yet remaining, but relic-seekers are fast demolishing them. From here we walked to Bethany, on the eastern slope of a lesser mount, one and a half miles distant, gather- ing wild-flowers of the most delicate kinds and hues, that grow in such profusion and variety in Palestine. This place, which has such sacred associations, is a small un- inviting looking village, but its neighborhood is very pretty, abounding in olive, fig, almond, and pomegranate trees. Here we were shown the Tomb of Lazarus and the Houses of Mary Magdalene and of Martha. Remount- ing our horses, we left this hallowed spot for another at some distance, at the foot of the Mount of Olives. The Garden of Gethsemane is surrounded by a high wall, en- closing eight very old olive-trees. The space is almost entirely laid out in flower-beds and borders, with very little taste, and the Latin monks in possession dispense showy bouquets, for which they expect a fee. On the opposite side of the road we were shown the Grotto of Agony and the Virgin's Tomb and Chapel, where it is said the Virgin lay after death, and the Assumption took place. At all such places a liberal fee is expected, 122 LETTER II. from one to two francs, according to the size of the party. Eeturning towards the city, we rode around the south- eastern walls, passing on the way the Tomb of Absalom, and those, hewn in the rock, of Zacharias, Jehoshaphat, and St. James. Ascending the hill to the southwest, we reached the interesting Tomb of David, surrounded with buildings which detract much from the sacredness of the spot, especially as it is in the hands of the Turks, who keep the place in a dirty condition. We were shown by our guide a room in one of the buildings, in which he assured us Christ dispensed the Last Sapper. Entering the city by the Jaffa Gate, beside the venerable Tower of David, and escorting the ladies to our house, I then made some calls at the Mediterranean Hotel, to see friends ; after which rode out of the city again to the tents of Mr. H. A. R., who had proposed joining his party to ours in a five days' excursion around Jerusalem, embracing the Pools of Solomon, Hebron, Bethlehem, Mar-Saba, the Dead Sea, the Jordan, and Jericho. It was decided to start on the following Monday, should the weather prove favorable, and the necessary permits to visit the Russian Convent, and a guard to meet us at Mar-Saba for the Dead Sea and Jordan, were applied for at the Consulate, Sunday, the 17th of March, was a very fine morning. From our house we could see the flags displayed on all the Consulates. "We all attended the English Church service in the morning, and in the afternoon visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre during the service of the Greek Catholics, presided over by the venerable-looking patri- arch. A description of this extensive and sacred edifi.ce THE HOLT SEPULCHRE. 123 would be out of place in this merely brief record of a tour. Suffice it to say that it stands on what is sup- posed to be the site of Calvary, and of the tombs of Joseph and Nicodemns,. as also of the place where Jesus appeared to his mother after his resurrection. Differ- ent sects of Christians have their respective chapels within its walls, that of the Greeks being very richly embellished. The most sacred spot among the many within the church is the Holy Sepulchre. The tomb itself, which is of white marble, about six feet square, is in a small room, allowing but four persons standing at a time, and difficult to approach, as there are some devout pilgrims who enter and depart on their knees, their eyes bathed in tears. On this spot for nearly six- teen centuries, kings, queens, princes, the greatest po- tentates upon earth, crusaders, and pilgrims have knelt and prayed. No Christian, be his creed what it may, can approach it without being inspired with awe and venera- tion. Our guide, a converted Jew by the name of Wein- thrope, who has an interesting family near Max Unger's, was desirous to show us what few travellers see. This was the extensive quarries under the city, discovered accidentally by Di\ Barclay, an American, about twelve years ago. These subterranean galleries, huge in *their proportions, were made, so it is said, by the Jews in building the city and walls when encompassed about by enemies. They extend from near the Damascus Gate to the Mosque of Omar and Gate of St. Stephen, and disclose the marks of the workmen's wedges, some of which re- main yet in their places. We found the excursion a very 124 LETTER II. interesting one, attended with no inconvenience, only re- quiring a guide with candles. The Tombs of the Proph- ets Avere next visited, not far distant from the Damascus Gate, in a northerly direction. On the day appointed for our five days' excursion, the weather was cloudy, with a fresh wind. We were up early, and prepared to start by eight in the morning ; our mules, loaded with the baggage, and saddle-horses in the street ready to mount, while Mustapha had gone to the camping-ground to meet us outside the city with our tents. It rained some, and the clouds looked a little black and threatening. I mounted my horse, rode out to the camp of Mr. R., outside the Jaffa Gate, to consult about starting, and got caught in a shower, against which my mackintosh was proof. I found his tents struck, and himself and party waiting the result of the weather. We concluded to remain a while longer, and as in an hour the clouds broke, we detei'mined to run the risk and start for Solomon's Pools, where we could encamp if found necessary, instead of proceeding to Hebron. As soon as I returned to Max Unger's, we mounted, and were joined by Mr. R. and party, all leaving by the Jaffa Gate, after a slight inspection there by the custom-house officers. Descending the hill, we crossed a plcrtn, and soon came to some large convents and hospitals. At Jacob's Well and Rachel's Tomb we stopped to gather wild-flowers, by which time the weather, though cool, had improved, and all signs of rain had disappeared. In two hours and a half, the Pools of Solomon were in sight, and concluding to stop here for lunch only, orders were scut forward to our JOURNEY TO HEBRON. 125 servants countermanding the intended encampment. While taking our lunch under the walls of a building- near the massive and gigantic reservoirs, a party of gentlemen with their Dragoman, servants, and baggage on camels arrived, that had crossed the desert from the Eed Sea, bound to Jerusalem. We all took a walk to inspect the famous works here built to supply the city with pure fresh water, contained in three basins of finely constructed masonry, the aggregate dimensions of whose interiors measure three million and a half cubic feet, and are fed by the mountain streams. After leaving, we began to ascend the steep and rocky path of the mountain, which was often difficult to find, as it branched ofi" in several directions, requiring great judgment in taking the right one, and avoiding the mud-holes and bad places among the rocks. De- scending to a plain, a shorter path was visible in the valley, which in dry weather can be used instead of the circuitous one along the hills. Continually gaining a higher altitude, valleys and mountains were crossed in slow and lengthened succession, and weiaried with many hours' riding, we impatiently looked from the summits to catch a glance of Hebron. Finally, as we came to a valley, the numerous vineyards, olive and fig trees which covered it and the hillsides, indicated the approach to the city of Father Abraham. We next passed along a narrow walled passage over mud, stones, and water, and emerged into higher ground in sight of the walls of ancient Hebron, nestled in the valley on the sides of one of the hills, opposite to which we found, at six o'clock, our tents pitched. 126 LETTER 11, As we rode up, a crowd of noisy boys were annoying the servants, while vendors of chickens, eggs, milk, bread, (fee, were watching the operations of Achmet Shaheen at the kitchen tent. The infidel youths were soon dispersed, the others remaining to trade with the Dragoman or gaze at the hated Christians, there being none in Hebron. Our ride of five hours and a half since lunch had fatigued us, but we enjoyed an excellent din- ner, and though the bright moonlight scene without was tempting, soon retired to rest. LETTER III. HEBRON. TOMB OP ABRAHAM. THE OAK. ENCAMP AT POOLS OF SOLOMON. — BETHLEHEM. OUR SHEIKH AND GUARD. MAR-SABA. OUR ENCAMPMENT. DESCENT TO THE DEAD SEA. THE VALLEY AND RIVER OP JORDAN. ARRIVAL AND ENCAMPMENT AT JERICHO. GREAT HEAT. RET URN TO JERUSALEM. • A STORM DRIVES US PROM OUR TENTS. MAX UNGER's HOUSE. LEAVE FOR JAFFA. NEBU-SAMUEL. LYDDA. ENCAMP AT JAFFA. The morning was calm and clear, with a warm sun. Having breakfasted early, we rode to see the city, the camping-ground of the patriarchs, the resting-place of Abraham and family, and the oldest city in the world next to Damascus. Our tents and baggage were sent forward, while we entered its narrow and venerable streets, and went to the great Haram, within whose walls is the sacred mosque or sanctuary which no Christian eyes are permitted to see. Beneath this, in the cave of Machpelah, lie buried Abraham and his wife, Sarah, together with Isaac and Rebekah, Jacob and Leah. The inhabitants of the city offered us no in- dignity, as they have done to some others heretofore. We noticed the men and children were particularly fine looking, and that there were some Jews in the 128 LETTER III. streets. Wine not being allowed by the laws of Mo: hammed, the grapes here are mostly dried, though they are sold in Jerusalem, where good wine is made for sale by Christians. On emerging from the walls of the city, we rode to Abraham's Oak, a mile or two distant, where we stopped some time under its widespread branches, one of which had been disposed of last year to make into articles for sale. Our ride back to Solomon's Pools was a very pleasant one, during which we stopped at a beautiful spot near an old ruin for lunch, and arrived at 4 p. m. at our camp. The tents, seven in number, including those of Mr. E., were pitched in a delightful spot near the Pools, and made a very pretty appearance from the hill, as we descended into the valley. The weather was mild, the temperature being 72° at 5 p. m., but falling to 50° during the night. A pleasant walk, dinner, a bright moonlight evening, and a good night's rest were enjoyed successively. The weather was calm and clear when we arose at six, breakfasted at seven, and both parties were punctually in their saddles, with tents struck and baggage on the mules, at eight, for Mar-Saba, vid Bethlehem. Passing the Pools, we rode along the rough sides of the mountain beside the water aqueduct, with a view beneath us of a lovely valley, with very finely cultivated gardens of fruit and vegetables raised for the Jerusalem market. A pleasant and romantic ride brought us in an hour and a half to the birthplace of our Saviour. This town, unlike Hebron, is inhabited by Christians, who have it in their possession by treaty with Turkey. Its outward appear- THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. 129 ance indicates the difference of the inhabitants of the two cities, this looking more fresh and European. We rode through the town and dismounted at the Church of the Nativity, in possession of the Greek Church, where we were beset by Jews and Christians to purchase mother-of- pearl rosaries and sculptured religious pieces, the impor- tunate vendors even following us into the sanctuary. We had them expelled, and were permitted to penetrate and inspect the walls and cells of this really impressive and interesting place without interruption. This church, surrounded by the Greek, Latin, and Armenian convents, is the oldest in the world. It was erected by Helena in the year a. d. 327. The ceiling is made from cedars of Lebanon. We descended into the crypt of the chapel, the floor and walls of which are of marble, and lighted by 40 gold and silver lamps, pre- sented by different sovereigns of Europe. At the eastern end is a silver star at an altar, around which are the words in Latin : " Here Christ was born of the Virgin Mary." Near by is a recess in the rock, in which is a block of marble hollowed out to represent the manger. All the surroundings are of the richest gold and silver ornaments, with precious stones. The velvet hangings of the altar of the place of nativity are entirely covered over with figures of the Virgin and Child, apostolic pictures and angels, the faces of whom are of fine enamel, with robes of pure gold studded with diamonds, rubies, em- eralds, and pearls. At regular distances between the pic- tures are about forty stars, richly worked in threads of gold with diamond centres and ruby and emerald points. Sixteen of the centre_ stones nearest within reach had 9 130 LETTER III. been stolen ! We descended into the Grotto of St. Jerome, where he spent the greater part of his life, and next saw the Altar of the Innocents, 20,000 of whom were buried here after the massacre by Herod. Leaving the church, we were again beset by the ven- dors of articles made from mother-of-pearl, stone, and wood finely carved, from whom we made several pur- chases, and then gladly effected our escape, followed by some of them a considerable distance. At the base of the hilKwe were joined by an Arab Sheikh well mounted and armed, and a guard of eight men on foot, poorly equipped with old flint-lock muskets. They had been engaged at Jerusalem, as customary, to attend us to the Dead Sea and the Jordan for protection against the wan- dering tribes of Bedouin Arabs who plunder and rob when a chance presents. They inhabit the country mostly bordering on the east side of the Dead Sea and Jordan, on the plains of Moab. As we wended our way, we fre- quently stopped to cull some of the beautiful wild-flow- ers which grow in pi'ofusion near the city, among them the well-known star of Bethlehem. At a convenient spot, we stopped to lunch, and continued our ride over a wild, mountainous, stony, and sandy country, with only a few stunted bushes here and there, and not a Jbouse or any living creature in sight but those in our lengthened caravan of nine Christians, with twenty-nine Ai'ab atten- dants. Some of the valleys looked fearfully deep below us, but our well-trained and careful horses gave us con- fidence, and the most remarkable scenery of this wild region was much enjoyed for its novelty. At three o'clock, we arrived at the immense structure CONVENT OP MAR-SABA. 131 of the Russian Convent of Mar-Saba, situated in the wild gorge of the mountains, looking, with its high towers, walls, buttresses, and gates, like a stronghold or fortress. It was thus constructed to protect the monks from the incursions of the wild Bedouins. Having a special per- mit from the Grand Patriarch of the Greek Church at Jerusalem, it was put into a basket, which was lowered from the tower eighty feet above us, and then the gate was opened for the gentlemen only, women never being admitted. We entered, leaving the ladies to take shel- ter from the hot sun under an arched wall. In the chapel, forty monks ranged on either side were at service. We were shown over the different buildings, rising one above another, the hospital, belfiy, and others, also a pretty flower and vegetable garden ; then ascended the tower, 250 steps high from the lowest part of the build- ing, and commanding a very fine view. Descending again to the court-yard, we made some purchases of articles manufactured by the monks, and afterwards visited the grotto curiously cut out in the sides of the rocky prom- ontory, in which lived and died a celebrated and sainted monk. Refreshing ourselves from a never-failing foun- tain of running water in the chapel, and declining other refreshments, which, as also lodgings, are offered travel- lei's without tents, we took leave, and found the ladies already gone to our camp, two miles distant. A fine road led us into the deep valley a thousand feet below, where our tents were pitched within a half-mile of those of some Bedouins. After the rest of the party had retired, the Doctor and myself strolled about the camp, and were entertained with a dance by our guard, which cost us some of the inevitable backsheesh. 132 LETTER III. The morning was clear and calm, with a temperature of 64° at sunrise. Our two parties were ready mounted at the fixed hour of eight, for starting on the long-di-eaded and hard day's journey to the Dead Sea, by a steep descent of 5,000 feet, thence to the River Jordan and Jericho, a ride of ten hours. As we wended our way over the deso- late hills, our caravan made an imposing appearance, con- sisting of 28 individuals and 35 horses and mules. After long winding descents, following the course of a mountain torrent, we came to the low country of the Jordan and Dead Sea, reaching the latter about noon. Situated between mountains, it is nearly fifty miles in length by seventeen in breadth, and lies 4,000 feet below Jerusalem, or 1,300 feet lower than the Mediterranean. While some of the party were strolling along the shores of this wonderfully salt lake, others went off with the guard and enjoyed a refreshing bath in it. The water is extremely buoyant, and is as salt as that of St. Catherine's "Wells, in Canada West. From here, the ride across the plains of Jordan, now barren and sandy, was an excessively hot one, and after an hour's discom- fort, we gladly welcomed near the river the first trees we had seen for two days. Under their shade, we found reclining two other parties from Jerusalem, vid Jericho, taking what we all needed, rest and lunch. While here, I was joined by others in taking a bath in the turbid waters of the Jordan, relieving us of the salt of the Dead Sea, while some contented themselves with dipping their hands and faces in the sacred river. Having filled our tin cans, brought for the purpose, with its waters, and getting some sticks of the willow, INTENSE HEAT. 133 we mounted our horses for a two hours' ride across the plain to Jericho, where we arrived about 6 P. M. Our tents, which had been sent forward by a shorter route after leaving Mar-Saba, we found pitched in a pleasant spot beside a running stream, outside the old town. The thermometer at that hour stood at 84° in the shade ! The morning was calm, clear, and very hot, the mer- cury at 7 A. M. being 70° outside in the shade. We rose early, and left at eight o'clock, in company with two other parties that we met at the Jordan, and had encamped near us. A rough and long ascent of the mountains was to be made, we being 5,300 feet below Jerusalem. The path being the worst we had seen, and fortunately was to be ascended instead of descended, proved our determina- tion to reverse the order of our five days' journey to be a wise one, as the dreaded descent of Mar-Saba was not as bad as represented. The heat of the sun became so intense, that we had to employ all means to keep off the burning rays. Before eleven o'clock, we were glad to obtain the shelter of some old walls where there was a well, and rested and lunched on the shady side, remain- ing there two hours. During the next three or four hours the heat, nearly alike on mountain as in valley — there being no air stirring — became so insupportable, that we took shelter beside an old ruin. We were near Bethany, whose heights we began to ascend as the sun declined behind the western hills before us ; and from their summits continued our way around the Mount of Olives, by the Garden of Gethsemane, the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and the northern walls of Jerusalem, to our tents, ready for us with the usual promptness. The 134 LETTER III. party of Mr. R. had left us at the last stopping-place, and were encamped on the Mount of Olives. Our Sheikh and his men had been paid off, and took their leave of each of us before reaching Bethany. While' sitting at table, dining, I was suddenly seized with the symptoms of sun-stroke, and left immediately for my tent, where I threw myself on the bed, drank freely of brandy, had a jug of hot water placed to my feet, cold applications to my head, and was entirely free in the morning from the effects of the hottest day I ever expeiienced. The rest of the party suffered no such consequences, having used white umbrellas, which I had not. The morning of the 23d was very warm, the clouds and wind from the S. W. threatening rain. Before noon the thermometer rose to 90° in the shade. Some of us went into the city to make purchases of photographs, &c. While here, we met our friends Mr. and Mrs. H., who had arrived from Egypt with their Dragoman and tents, during our absence, and our pleasant voyages on the Nile were talked over and conti'asted with the " hard I'oad of Jordan." The weather was showery in the afternoon, and in the evening we had a thundei'-storm. Soon after midnight it commenced blowing, accompanied with a heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. All of us had to bestir ourselves to keep our beds and luggage from get- ting wet, while El Adli, Mustapha, and the servants were keeping the tents secure outside. The following day, the wind and rain continuing, and our tents being in a wot condition, we resolved to quit them and take up our old quarters in Max Unger's WEATHERBOUND IN JERUSALEM. 135 house, should they be vacant. This was somewhat doubtful, as the hotels were overflowing with travellers, mostly Americans, who had left their tents in conse- quence of the bad weather. The apartments were found vacant, and engaged immediately, not any too soon, as they were applied for ten minutes afterwards. By nine o'clock, the ladies were conveyed to our excellent quarters, sitting around a stove to dry their garments, and were soon refreshed by a substantial breakfast, prepared by our own servants and cook. We had a visit from some Nile friends in the evening, who had to recount stories of tents blown down, of ladies who had to seek shelter in coffee-shops the preceding night, which quite reconciled us to the discomforts we had undergone. We had determined, as part of our plan, to start the next day for Jaffa, there to embark for Beyrout by steamer, where we could be in easy reach of Damascus, instead of taking the usual long route to the latter city by way of ISTablous, Samaria, Jenin, Nazareth, Lake Tiberias, Capernaum, Safed, and Bauias, which requires at least ten days of consecutive travelling with tents. This is a great objection, should the weather prove bad ; but if the traveller desires particularly to extend his tent life and see the places named in the foregoing route, he had better defer visiting Syria to a later period in spring, — • though it is said the rains came later this year than usual. The weather appearing unsettled, and our tents being wet, determined us to wait in Jerusalem another day, which allowed us time to visit the shops, make calls, and write some letters. The morning was fair, and as prepa- 136 LETTER III. rations had been made the evening previoiis to take advantage of it, we were all ready in our saddles, and started at eight o'clock for Jaffa, vid Nebu-Samuel and Bethoron. Leaving by the Damascus Gate, we bid adieu to the old gray walls of Jerusalem forever, and met our baggage and tents under the charge of Mustapha, who led the way, while El Adli remained as usual with us to look after the comfort of the ladies. After a long circui- tous ascent, we reached the top of Nebu-Samuel, from which we obtained a fine view of the plain of Gibeon and surrounding country. It was here that the leaders of the great Christian crusade stojDped over night before their attack on Jerusalem. Descending, we reached a spot near Gibeon, where we lunched, and then proceeded on till we reached New Bethoron, where El Adli expected to find our tents pitched. We found none there, and wei-e apprehensive we should have to go to Lydda for them, a much longer ride than we cared to take, as it was getting late. A little farther on, we espied them in a valley two miles distant, and on arriving, learned that this spot had been wisely selected as a much better one for encamping. The following morning was cloudy, and weather com- fortable, with the wind from a fair quarter, and having an easy journey before xas, we started at ten o'clock for Jaffa. Our course was over gently undulating hills, until we reached the pretty-appearing town of Lydda, sur- rounded with luxuriant fields, and standing on an emi- nence crowned with olive and other trees. Ramleh, our first camping-ground, was in sight a few miles off" on the other route to Jerusalem. Passing through the filthy 137 streets of the town, we came to the pretty ruins of the Church of St. George, supposed to have been built by Richard Coeur-de-Lion. The gentlemen there ascended the minaret tower of a Moslem mosque, where a fine view was had. It was in this town that Peter performed the miracle of curing ^neas (Acts ix. 32—36). Our lunch was spread a short distance outside the town under some large trees, and after a brief stay we resumed our jour- ney. On approaching Jaffa, the air was redolent with the perfume of orange-blossoms from the extensive groves through which we rode for nearly two miles, when we emerged into the market-place outside the city, near the Jerusalem Gate. Proceeding along the outer walls southerly to the quarantine hill, we found our tents pitched there and ready for us at five o'clock. From this spot a fine view of the sea was had, as also of the city and of the Jaffa Colony, about a mile distant. Having hoisted the American flag on the highest branch of a tree, we dined, and retired to rest. LETTER IV. THE AMERICAN COLONY AT JAFFA. RAIN AGAIN. LEAVE TENTS FOR THE CONVENT. EMBARK FOB BBYROUT. ARRIVAL. THE CITY. RIDE TO DAMASCUS IN DILI- GENCE. DEMETRl'S HOTEL. VISIT TO CONSUL. THE BAZAARS. VIEW OF CITY FROM SALINBH. VISIT TO MRS. DIGBY. LEAVE DAMASCUS. The moi'ning was cloudy, and the wind from the east soon after changed to S. S. W. After having called on the Vice-Consul, Mr. Loewenthal, we took a walk to the American Colony, a short distance from the city walls, to see it for ourselves, having heard so many conflicting opinions and statements concerning its condition. Mr. Bidwell, as has been mentioned, had visited it to make a report to Secretary Seward, with what result I know not. It seemed to me that the published reports of the sickness and deaths had been exaggerated, as on referring to the register at the . Consulate, there had been, out of the whole number of 156 who landed in October to the present time, only 14 deaths, and four of these were adults of over 38 years of age. Nine of the children were under three years, the other one eight years old. No deaths had occurred for the last four months. Wc found the village looking quite like a Western one THE AMERICAN COLONY. 139 just settled by New England emigrants. It had a group of wooden dwellings, mostly without clapboai-ds on their walls, among them the frame of a large three-story build- ing being erected for a hotel, and, conspicuous for its size and superiority, a nice-looking, finished house, occupied by the temporal and spiritual leader of the colony. Elder Adams. We called upon him, aiid found his wife to be an extraordinarily strong-minded woman, possessing a large share of ambition and Yankee " smartness." They gave us a very favorable account of the condition and prospects of the Colony, excepting, as they stated, there were without reason a very few indolent or discontented ones. Our visit to some of the disaffected families convinced ns there were two sides to the question. They appeared to be very honest, simple-minded, and industrious. Their dwellings evinced neatness, and the personal appearance of the grown-up sons and daughters was highly creditable to the New England character. A careful inquiry led ns to the conclusion that nearly half of the Colony were dis- appointed in their expectations, and were irreconcilably opposed to, and divided from, those who wished, with Mr. Adams, to remain. Their several stories agreed, and led to the same conclusion ; and as " a house divided against itself cannot stand," it seemed to us better for the opposing parties to separate, those wishing to leave, to be provided with the necessary means of doing so. While doubtless a flourishing and united colony of Christians here so near Jerusalem might, under proper direction, be a very desirable object for the good in- fluences it would give to the Christian cause, which is 140 LETTER IV. rapidly gaining ground in Syria, especially at Beyrout, it is very important that the unhappy dissensions among the Christians of Jaffa should speedily cease. -^ The return to our camp at five o'clock "was just in time to escape a shower, and our tents were again drenched. The rain continued for two hours, at the end of which time the Vice-Consul called by appointment, and as we were to take the steamer the following morning, and a rainy night was in prospect, we concluded to leave for the hotel or convent. A muddy walk brought us to the for- mer, which finding quite full, we were accompanied by the Consul to our old quarters, the Latin Convent, where we were accommodated for the night. By the invitation of Mr. Loewenthal, in company with one of the gentle- men of our part}^, I accompanied him to his house, near by, where we found his wife and Mrs. R., of Boston, their guesti and had a pleasant hour's conversation. The following morning, which was a calm and cloudy one, I rose very early, before the nearest gates were opened, and went out to our camp by the Jerusalem Gate, to have our luggage and all hands on board the Austrian steamer, which was to leave for Bej^rout at 9 o'clock A. M. Our tents being too wet to pack, it was arranged that they should follow us with the servants by the French steamei', to leave in the afternoon. El Adli accompanied us on board at the hour, and the tran- sit to the " Pluto " was in happy contrast to the one when we landed here. There were many other Americans, and as the weather soon cleared off finely, our short passage ^ The Colony soon after returned to the United States. BEYROUT. 141 promised to be a pleasant one. The coast view was very beautiful, and at Caiffa, near Mount Carmel, we stopped a short time to land passengers. The day continued fine, and the night was a quiet one on the steamer, except about thi'ee o'clock a. m., when she dropped anchor at Beyrout. The view which greeted us on going on deck the next morning was a very lovely one. The weather, calm and fine, afforded us an excellent opportunity of seeing to advantage the beautiful panorama of the city, with the hills around it, and the mountains of Lebanon in the distance, their summits tipped with snow, and their sides, with the intervening valleys, clothed with the foliage of the mulberry, grape, fig, and olive trees. There are many fine houses in the suburbs, surrounded with gardens, which impart an additional beauty to the scene. We landed at the custom-house, where the usual ex- amination takes place, and where my passport, which I had not shown since leaving France, was asked for. I referred the officers, as I had done before in the Turkish and Egyptian dominions, to the American Consul, as I knew they had no right to see it. At the Hotel d'Orient, kept by Nicolas Bassoul, we were very comfortably lodged, and found his table an excellent one, so much so, that we decided to lay aside tents a while, if not finally. Our first object was to engage places to and from Damascus in the diligence at the bureau «of the French Company, who have built at a heavy expense a most perfect road over the Lebanon mountains, and take passengers through in 12 hoiirs. Places were secured for the desired days in the coupe and imperial for our party, and one in the 142 LETTER IV, interieur for our Dragoman ; it having been arranged as a part of our programme to visit Baalbec from Stoura (the half-way station on the road) on our return from Damascus, meeting there our servants and horses for the trip to and from Baalbec. As accommodation for a night at both places could be obtained, our tents might be dispensed with, and the necessary provisions, &c., brought on a mule ; saving time, trouble, and the risk of rain in the valley between the two raiiges of the Lebanon, in which our route lay. We found rumors prevailing here of an intended mas- sacre of the Christians in Damascus, and many families of the natives, remembering the dreadful one of 1861, wei'e already fleeing hither from there. We were how- ever assured by our Consul, Mr. Johnson, since appointed Consul-Genernl, that there was no danger. The excite- ment "there against the Christians was caused by a pro- clamation in relation to the wounded Turks fighting in Candia; and the Governor afterwards neutralized it by another one issued by the intervention and at the urgent demand of the foreign Consuls, which calmed the inflamed passions of the Mohammedans. While awaiting three days our time of departure, we visited the bazaars and many interesting places in and about the city. It has a 2:)opulation of about 50,000, mostly Christians, who have embellished it; and a lai'ge trade with Europe and Syria gives it the aspect of a European city. Its growth has been rapid the last few years, and there are many excellent institutions, one of which we visited, and sliould be seen by all Americans stopping here. The School of the American Mission, THE SCHOOL OP THE AMERICAN MISSION. 143 established four years since, is a model one, and within a year has been removed to the spacious new building erected for the purpose, and occupying a fine and con- spicuous site. Miss Gregory, a young native, has done a vast amount of labor in organizing and getting the school into its present perfect condition, under the supervision of Mr. Jessup and his assistant. The eighty scholars went through their exercises for us, singing in Arabic and English exceedingly well. The weather remained fine, and the temperature very equal, varying but little the three days, from 70° at night to 75° during the day. The Sabbath spent here was a quiet one, most of the shops being closed, except in the Turkish quarter. The soldiers seemed to make it a holi- day, playing various games in the great Square. The market was well supplied with new marrowfat peas, beans, potatoes, vegetable-marrow, squashes, lettuce, radishes, celery, &c. During the third day, we tried the horses hired for our Baalbec excursion, and rode out to a forest of young pines, near which a regiment of Turkish infantry was encamped for the night, on its way to Damascus. Our obliging landlord called us long before daybreak, and had a hot breakfast ready, which fortified us for the diligence ride. He accompanied us with El Adli to the office, where our luggage was weighed, and the overweight of 25 lbs. allowance to each person paid for. Punctually at four o'clock, we started, with a fall complement of 14 passengers. The morning was pleasant, and our ascent of Mount Lebanon over this fine macadamized road, well graded by a skilful engineer, was easily done with four horses, which were changed about every two hours. As 144 LETTER IV. we nenred the highest summit of the road, in five hours aud a half from starting, the wild hyacinth with its purple blossoms perfumed the air, now grown quite cold from the vicinity of snow. Our descent was a very rapid one over the winding and gradually descending grade. A fine view of Gebeleh Sheikh, the highest mountain in Syria, was had, with its summit covered with a heavy body of snow. Before noon, we reached Stoura, where El Adli served, on the banks of a stream, by the little French restaurant, a lunch from his canteen, though we might have obtained a tolerable breakfast, had we wished, in the house. After crossing the plains, we ascended and passed through a romantic goi-ge of the Anti-Lebanon range, and then along beside the running stream, the Barada, which supplies Damascus with pure water. Emerging into a valley, the minarets of the city appeared, while its build- ings Avere mostly veiled from view by the surrounding groves. At six o'clock, the soiind of the bugle from our lively conductor, and the crack of the whip of the pos- tilion, announced our arrival at the entrance of the famed City of Uz, who was the grandson of Noah, and founded it. We were soon comfortably lodged in the only hotel of the place, the Locanda Melluk, kept by Demetri, a Greek. It was well filled, there being over thirty Americans, a j^art of whom were to leave the next day for their tents, en route to Baalbec and Beyrout. All had come from Jerusalem "overland," and had experi- enced considerable rainy weather ; among them some of our old friends just arrived who had left there before us. The wares and silk stuffs of " Old Antique " were in the evening displayed as usual in the recess which opened VISIT TO THE CONSUL. 145 into the court of the hotel, with its fountain and orange- trees. The sayings and doings of this eccentric Oriental pedler amused us much. The morning of the third of April succeeding our arrival was very fine, and the mercury at 70°. It was improved by taking a walk in the market, and seeing two parties, numbering 18, start off with their camp equipage for Baalbec; after which we visited the Great Mosque, with its three minarets, one of which we ascended. From here we went by special permission to the harem of a wealthy merchant, the interior of which the ladies saw, with some of its fiiir inmates, while the gentlemen waited in the coffee and smoking room. Some richly furnished houses belonging to Jews were next visited. One of them contained several generations of the same family, with a large nursery of young children living together ; the saloons and apartments seen were richly decorated and furnished. The following day, the horse-market was visited early in the morning, where among about fifty horses, some of the wildest had to be caught with the lasso. It took several strong men to hold one when caught. At the invitation of Mr. Mechaka, our Consul, who sent his cavasse for us, the gentlemen of our party paid him a visit. The veteran representative of the Great Republic is a wealthy Syrian Christian, formerly a physician, is a large, fine-looking man, and occupies an elegant, richly decorated and furnished house, with a fine garden at- tached. He welcomed us very warmly, and with one of his sons, who spoke French and English, entertained us with pipes, coffee, and sweetmeats. From him we learnt 10 146 LETTER IV. that during the great massacre of 1861, he was struck down with the blow of a sword on the forehead, the singu- lar effects of which he was just in part getting over, it having deprived him of the sense of smelling some things, while others were so obnoxious, that he had lived five years without meat and most kinds of vegetables and fruit. The remainder of the day was spent in making purchases in the bazaars, most of which are situated in "the street that is called Straight." A part of the following day being rainy, I went with El Adli to the bazaars. It being the Moslem sabbath, the covered streets of this great resort were thronged with crowds of people from the country, curious to be- hold. The numerous cook-shops were well patronized by them, and the manner of cooking and dispensing strange dishes was exceedingly novel and interesting. Two par- ties from Jerusalem arrived " overland," among them our old companions of the five days' journey, who had experi- enced a hard time, and were glad to enjoy the comforts of a hotel again. The rain next day ceasing a while, we took a ride on donkeys to the heights of Saliueh, where a fine view of the city was had. Damascus, suiTounded by hills and situated in a valley, is set with a deep fringe of the dark foliage of its surrounding groves and gardens, giving it a very picturesque appearance. It is called the oldest city in the world, dating back over 4,000 years, and consid- ered in its aspect, the most Oriental. The inhabitants number over 160,000, five-sixths of whom are Mohamme- dans, the rest Christians (mostly native) and Jews. There are about 400 public cook-shops, 200 mosques, eight VISIT TO MRS. DIGBY. 147 synagogues, and eight convents and churches. The Chris- tians, Jews, and Turks inhabit separate quarters of the city, and the gates are closed at sunset. Having sent our cards to the " Honorable Mrs. Digby," an hour was assigned by her to receive us, and accord- ingly we improved it to see this remarkable woman, whose life has been so checkered a one. A daughter of Admiral Digby, and of extraordinary beauty, she married at an early age Lord Ellenborough, then eloped with a German baron, and afterwards became the wife of a Greek count, whose friends persuaded him to separate from her. Sub- sequently, having been rescued from danger in travelling to Palmyra by her escort, a fine-looking Sheikh, and chief of a tribe of Bedouins, she was enamoured of him and became his wife, remaining so for many years to the present time. She is now over sixty years of age, and lives in a fine house fitted up in the Oriental style, hav- ing one of the best gardens attached to be found in Damascus. She is supported mostly by an income from her English connections, and is known in English circles as Lady Digby. -^ Her ladyship received iis in a very cordial manner, but was suffering from a sprained ankle caused by a fall from her horse some weeks previous. She insisted, however, on showing us through her suite of rooms, which embraced a square saloon and a pretty octagonal one connected, and richly decorated in Oriental style. I noticed on the walls the beautiful painting of herself when young, and that of her father, the renowned Admiral. She alluded freely to ^ Lady Digby has recently died. 148 LETTER IV. the gi'eat change in her looks, showed us a photograph of her Sheikh, then absent ; and her frankness, general deportment, and conversation were prepossessing, and evinced quite a change in the once gay Lady Ellen- borough. Although having plenty of servants, she in- sisted on accompanying us through the garden to the Btables, where were some fine horses, and in the yard some gazelles and a collection of poultry. We were then shown her summer-house, with a handsome suite of apart- ments, in Oriental style, a fountain in the centre of the smoking-roona, the whole building carefully screened by trees and shrubbery from the rays of the sun. Having gratified a desire to see one whose histoiy has been adverted to by several authors, we left for the bazaars. The next morning, all arose before three o'clock to take the diligence for Stoui-a, where we expected to meet our horses for Baalbec. At four o'clock we were in our secured places, and soon after sunrise the cold morning mist gave way to occasional sunshine. Having crossed the first range of mountains, some of whose summits are about 7,000 feet high, we entered the plain from which the other Lebanon I'ange looked beautiful in sunshine and shadow. Stoura was reached at eleven o'clock, where our horses were in waiting, and we then left the diligence to have a hot breakfast at the restaurant, pre- paratory to starting for Baalbec. LETTER V. A PLEASANT RIDE TO BAALBEC. SLEEP IN AN ARAB HOUSE. A STORMY NIGHT. VISIT TO THE GREAT TEMPLES AND QUARRIES. A STORMY DAY's RIDE TO STOURA. A NIGHT AT THE RESTAURANT. A PINE DAY, AND DILIGENCE RIDE TO BEYROUT. PREPARA- TIONS FOR DEPARTURE. EMBARK FOR EUROPE. PARTING WITH OUR FAITHFUL EGYPTIANS. VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST OF SYRIA. CONCLUSION. • While the diligence stopped its usual hour, and we were at breakfast, the clouds on the mountains looked so dense and threatening that the ladies abandoned the idea of a two days' ride on horseback in such uncertain weathei', and concluded to return by the diligence to Beyrout, Mr. L. also wisely deciding to accompany them. Being provided with rubber garments, I determined to go, even if alone ; but the Doctor was as anxious to visit the great ruins as myself, and after the diligence left we were soon mounted, choosing the best of the sis horses, which with their attendants followed us and El Adli. We took the precaution to engage for sleeping, the night of the following day, on our return, the only obtainable room, that of the salle-h-manger of the restaurant, order- ing also a hot dinner to be ready for us. The French- 150 LETTER V. man and his wife, -who keep it, appropriate the rest of the snug quarters for themselves and for some employes of the company stationed here. Soon after starting, the weather cleared up finely, and we had a delightful ride of five and a half hours through the valley between the Lebanon and the Anti-Lebanon range of mountains, which were covered .with snow, and, in alternate sunshine and shadow, looked very beautiful. On arriving at the confines of Baalbec, only a small mis- erable village, near which the ruins raise their majestic heads, we parted from El Adli, leaving him to arrange for our night's quarters, and galloped toward the temples, entering their midst just before sunset shed its parting rays upon the walls of these wondrous monuments of art and architecture, of which we took a survey, and reluc- tantly left for our lodgings. These we found were engaged in the house of a Christian Arab, whose family did all they could to make us comfortable. Fires were lighted, dinner cooked, and tolerable beds made for us on the floor, there being neither bedstead?, tables, nor chairs, — all useless furniture in an Arab house. In the even- ing, we gathered with them around a fire in an adjoining room, and, seated on mats, kept up a lively conversation. El Adli acting as interpreter. A stoi'm of rain, with thunder and lightning, prevailed for some houi'S in the night, but did not prevent us from having a good repose. After a hot breakfast from our canteen, the rain ceasing, we again visited the Temples of Jupiter and the Sun, surrounded by immense walls and towers. The subterranean passages by which we entered are on a grander scale than anything of the kind I ever THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER. 151 beheld. The origin of these temples is not known, but Persians, Greeks, and Romans have in turn possessed them, and in 639 a. d. they were pillaged by the Arabs. The fortress was partially destroyed by the warlike Tar- tar, Tamerlane, having suffered much in the wars of the crusades. Some of the foundation-stones are 63 feet long, 15 wide, and 13 thick. There are many ashlers in the walls 20 feet above their foundation, which measure 30 by 15 feet, and are 13 feet in thickness. The two tem- ples, together with a circular one, were built upon an immense platform raised 30 feet above the plain. That of the Sun was 290 by 160 feet, and had 54 Corinthian columns 75 feet high, and over 7 feet diameter at the base. The huge capstones, reaching from pillar to pillar, were clamped together with wrought iron a foot in thickness. Only a small remnant of the once majestic colonnade now remains standing ; other parts lie strewed around. The temple of Jupiter, 230 feet long by 120 wide, is in a comparatively perfect state, more so than any other in Syria. No description can convey any adeqiiate idea of the grandeur of its architecture, the beautiful details of which serve as models for the finest specimens of modern ornamentation. These temples combine the Doric, Tuscan, and Coi'intbian orders with the Jewish; it is supposed that Solomon built them for his Jewish wife, and that his idolatrous successors consecrated the one to the worship of the Sun. We ascended a high broken arch by a circular stairway within the wall, and crossed on its top, over the half-dropped-out keystone, to the adjoining walls of a gigantic loopholed tower, into 152 LETTER V. which we entei'ed neai' its summit. A fine view was had from here, and a curious stone observed lying in the tower, covered with hieroglyphics. Returning to our lodgings, we hastened our departure, as it was nearly eleven o'clock, and as the weather, already rainy, threatened a bad day for our return. About a mile distant, we stopped to view the quaiTies which supplied the large stones for the walls alluded to. Here Ave saw a solid piece of stone hewn on its four sides, lying in its original bed, measuring 69 feet in length, 17 wide, and 14 thick! Soon after leaving, we encoun- tered a sudden and severe storm of hail and wind, which broke my umbrella in pieces, earned my hat far into a field, and caused my horse to face about until the worst was over. Fortunately, I had with my mackintosh, a rubber cap with a cape, which effectually protected my head and neck. We proceeded on as fast as possible, meeting successive showers of mingled hail and rain, with wind, which came through the valley directly in our faces. The roads became wet and muddy, and El Adli, drenched to the skin and chilled, looked desponding. An extra coat was spared him, and a little artificial warmth administered, as well as to ourselves. I found the double suits of clothing I wore did me good service, though my face and hands suffered from the cold and hail. The mud in the valley road, which we had unfortunately taken as the shortest, became so soft, that for quite a distance our horses sank tip to their knees at every step. We finally reached an Arab village, where, in the only Christian hut of the place, we got shelter, were supplied with a little fire, and took our EETURN TO STOURA. 153 lunch. Refreshed by an hour's rest, we continued our way, meeting gusts of wind with occasional showers from the two ranges of the Lebanon, over which dense clouds dispensed alternately on summit and valley, snow, hail, and rain. About five miles from Stoura, we ascended a hill on which is situated the large town of El Malaka, having extensive silk manufactories and a monastery. From here there is a good macadamized road built by a French company. Night approaching, and the weather looking worse, we urged our jaded horses to the utmost, and scarcely drew rein until we ainnved at the station- house of Stoura, where the room of the restaurant had been engaged for us. The French hostess and her pretty Arab waiter-girl served us with a hot dinner, and, with the pure Lebanon wine made here by our host, was a welcome repast. Nice clean sheets and comforters were spread on the divans for our night's repose, and although the storm of the evening previous was renewed with great fury, accom- panied by torrents of rain, we slept soundly. The morning came with fair weather and a bright sun, which we enjoyed while awaiting the arrival of our dili- gence at noon. About an hour before, a party of friends with their Dragoman and camp equipage arrived from Zableh, where they had encamped overnight from Baalbec, and experienced the bad weather. They were en route for Beyrout, and the three ladies were glad to accept our proffered vacant coupe in the diligence which we had engaged, and leave their horses and party to follow them. Our old places in the imperial, on the top of the vehicle, though exposing us to the cold on the summit of the 154 LETTER V. mountain road, gave a splendid view, on our descent, of the Mediterranean, of Beyrout, and of the valley spread out before us. We arrived at half-past five o'clock, and ■were glad to meet our party and numerous fi'iends at the hotel. Early the following day, we secured passages in the " Indus " for Smjaiia, to touch at Trij)oli, Latakia, Alexandretta, Mersina, and the Island of Rhodes. Our luggage was got in readiness and takeu to the steamer, which was to leave early in. the morning, obliging us to go on board the evening previous. The U. S. steamer " Canandaigua " arrived, and some of her ofl&cers dined at our excellent table cVhote, where thirty Americans, being a largq majority present, represented our glorious Republic. Having settled up accounts vs'ith our Dragoman, and given him and the servants and cook recommendations and presents, they all accompanied us on board, where they took an affectionate and sorrowful leave. The wai-m and generous heart of our faithful El Adli was melted to tears, and we all parted with regret from those who had contributed so much to our pleasure and comfort in Egypt and Syria for the last four mouths. The night w^as a beautiful one, and we slept soundly after retiring at a late hour, while our vessel remained at anchor. The morning of the 11th of April was a lovely one, and at an early hour we steamed away from this handsome port and town, passing along the coast with its fine mountain views. Our voyage of six days, most of which time we should be in port, pi'omiscd fairly. We arrived at Tripoli in four hours, where we remained a while,. ALEXANDRETTA. 155 giving the passengers an opportunity to go ashore and see both the old and new town, the former having an extensive fortress. Latakia was reached next, about 10 p. M., -where we anchored for the night. This town is celebrated for its export of a favorite tobacco for pipes, the best of which is the gebeleh. About 11 o'clock the next morning, with clear weather and a smooth sea, we left for Alexandretta, arriving there at sunset, which was a brilliant one. The large saloon of the " Indus " was enlivened in the evening with music on the piano, a flute accompaniment, and some dancing. Another beautiful day greeted us as we came on deck and found ourselves lying at a,nchor in the bay of Alexan- di'etta, at the extreme eastern part of the Mediterranean, and nearly encompassed by land, the water clear and smooth. The town is a mere hamlet, but steamers await here the arrival of the overland mail and specie from Aleppo and Bagdad. Cotton and nutgalls were added to the freight. While strolling ashore, the temperature and a fine beach invited a bath, which some of us enjoyed very much. A pleasant evening was spent on board, and our steamer remained here during the night. Our departure was delayed until 10 o'clock the day following, and with the receding shores of Alexandretta propei'ly ends our "Tour in Syria and Palestine." In conclusion,^ I will add that we were favored with fine weather during our voyage to Smyrna, from thence in another steamer to Constantinople, touching at Metelin (which had just been destroyed by an earthquake), and 1 A few useful items belonging to the foregoing tour will be found, Avith others relating to Egypt, in the Appendix'. 156 LETTER V. after, from the Oriental metropolis in the fine steamer "Tibre" to Messina, touching at Piraeus, the port of Athens. In our short voyage by another steamer from Messina to Naples, we experienced the first rough sea since leaving Beyrout. Our visits to these interesting places were much enjoyed, but we found the middle of May too warm a period for Central Italy, and hastened our departure for Paris by way of Milan, Turin, and the Mont Cenis Pass, arriving in the latter part of the month at the gay capital, where the " R. W. L." party of the Nile and Holy Land commenced examining the wonders of the Great Paris Universal Exposition of 1867, remain- ing in that city until its close in November. The follow- ing winter and spring were spent in the South of France, Algiers, Portugal, and Spain. APPENDIX. USEFUL ITEMS OF INFORMATION FOR TRAVEL- LERS IN EGYPT. No 2^ciss2oorts are required after leaving Europe, but it is best to have one with you, as it identifies your nationahty in case of need. Money of any kind can readily be had from the bankers on whom you have ci'edits, and it is not necessary to take any more than for your expenses to Alexandria or Cairo. French and English gold is generally used (the former is preferable), and can always be exchanged for small silver money of the country, which is piastres and paras. A Napoleon is worth 97, and a sovereign 121 current pias- tres, varying according to the rate of .exchange. Prices, however, at all Government offices, including the railroad, are made in Egyptian silver piastres, which are worth 5 paras more than the Turkish or current piastre, and only 77 — 5 of these are given for the Napoleon, and 97 — 20 for the pound sterling. They are worth 40 paras, and divided into ^, \, and ^ pieces. There are other coins current, such as the Austrian zwanziger, and Russian 20 and 25 kopeck pieces. 158 APPENDIX. Letters and 2)<^I>^'>'s should be sent to care of your banker in Cairo, who will forward them, according to the time you desire, by the Egyptian letter post. This is despatched by Ai'ab runners across the desert, and all letters and papers should be directed to care of the Consul at Thebes, so as not to run the risk of missing them at other towns on the river. For articles of clothing, the climate will suggest what ought to be taken, but dress suits, except a coat, are quite needless up the Nile. As little should be taken as possi- ble, the room in a boat not admitting of much luggage, without great inconvenience; neither will it be required. The following are most useful : A cloth travelling suit ; riding pants, or canvas leggings ; flannel shirts with or without collars ; j)aper collars (laundry arrangements are A'ery limited on board) ; a thick knit woollen vest, or short gilet de chasse, to be worn between the coat and ordinary vest ; a long dressing-gown ; a thin overcoat ; a light hat with broad brim covered with muslin (to be had in Cairo) ; a fez ; light shoes of canvas cloth (no thick boots are necessary unless duck-shooting is pur- sued away from the river, which is rarely done) ; a foot- warmer heated with hot water. For sporting : double-barrel breech-loading fowling- pieces, and a modern rifle, with equipments, to be bought with fixed ammunition in Loudon, Paris, or Mar- seilles, not omitting matei'ials for cleaning. A good field-glass, and colored glasses with wire pro- tectors for the eyes, should be bought in Paris or London ; a white umbrella with dark lining in Cairo. Flags of all kinds and pennants can be purchased or APPENDIX. 159 made in Cairo. Hadkinson, an English tailor in the rear of the Esbekieh, and another one in the bazaar, will sup- ply them. The flags should be about 9 by 12 feet, and pennants from 30 to 60 feet in length, by 15 to 20 inches wide at the mast end, and tapered to a point. Wines and liquors it is best to purchase at Alexandria. Ebenezer Thomas has all kinds, and sells a pure and genuine article at a fair advance on the cost. Bordeaux and Marsala, mostly the former, are best for the Nile, although the w^ater of the river, filtered on board, is exceedingly palatable, and contains nothing deleterious to health. Some desirable articles mentioned in one of the letters can be purchased at Marseilles of J. S. Martin or his successors. Tea it is best to purchase in Europe. Should it not be done, select it for your Dragoman in Alexandria or Cairo. English butter must be bought in Alexandria. See that the Dragoman selects all the proper articles for the voyage with reference to kinds and quantities, about which the tastes of travellers differ so widely. Before selecting a boat, examine it well behind the wood casings, within the drawei's, and under deck, to ascertain whether it is free from a bad odor and vermin. Flies abound on the Nile, but only a few mosquitoes, and rarely any fleas in a clean boat. Nets, however, should be provided, and it is important to see that there is a good supply of blankets. A French lamp is very useful, and can be purchased in Cairo. See that. the best oil is furnished, with extra wicks and shades. Medicines can be obtained from an English apothecary at Cairo. Such rules of health as apply to a tropical 1 60 APPENDIX. climate should be observed. Temperance in eating and drinking, especially strong alcoholic drinks, should be ob- served, avoiding a continued perspiration, wet clothes, a too long exposure to the night air, and sitting in a draught. A narrow belt, or a sash worn tightly around the waist beneath the clothing, is a good sanitary precaution against diseases of the bowels in warm climates. There are but few diseases in Egypt. Fevers are rare ; and diarrhoea, dysentery, and ophthalmia are the principal ones travel- lers on the Nile are liable to. But little money need be taken up the river, as only a few articles other than antiquities are to be purchased there. The novice in these must be on his guard against spurious scarabei, to be met with principally at Thebes. Mustapha Aga, the consul there, is a good judge of them. While ti'eating the Dragoman and servants with kind- ness, it is very important from the first to avoid a useless familiax'ity that sometimes breeds contempt of authority, and at all times assert your rights firmly. All orders not inconsisfcent with your contract should be obeyed by your Di'agoman, who engages himself as a servant, not as an equal in authority. Good discipline on board is essential for the enjoyment of the voyage. When there is more than one gentleman in a party equally interested, it is better to have one act as captain, by turns or otherwise. After deliberation and decision among the party on matters of the voyage, all wishes or orders can then be communicated through that officer. The hours of stopping which are made at the request and on account of the party should be noted down, and APPENDIX. 161 a memorandum of the same given to the Dragoman for the Reis of the boat. Many opportunities can be had for shore excursions when the boat is tracking or otherwise unavoidably delayed, and several times on the upward and downward voyage while the crew stop to bake bread. These are not included in the time given in the contract for stop- pages. For steamers from Marseilles, Trieste, or Brindisi, for Alexandria, consult the latest guidebooks. ITEMS FOR A TOUR IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE. This tour can be made to the best advantage in the month of October, and the latter part of March, and the month of April. It is best to take tents from Jerusalem, if the desert route is avoided, and Jaffa is taken as the point of departure, where horses and guides can be had for the former city. Syrian Dragomans and Jewish local guides are preferable. They understand the coun- try and people better, by the same rule that applies to Egypt, where native Dragomans are to be preferred to foreign. Of course there are exceptions to this, and the traveller must be his own judge by the experience he meets with. Tents should be carefully examined before adopted, with reference to their quality, which should be water- proof or best English canvas, and the form of the roof, which should have eaves projecting to shed the rain 11 162 APPENDIX. from the sides. They should be provided with clean car- pets, folding-chairs with backs, and portable washstands. Gimlets will serve a good purpose for hanging up clothes to the tent-poles. Pieces of oilcloth about 6 feet square for the ground, and smaller pieces for bundles of luggage, are very useful. Cheap portmanteaus can be bought in Alexandria for necessary luggage, and trunks containing other baggage can be left with the steamer's agents in Jaffa and Beyrout. Contract for good English side-saddles, if any are needed, and see that your others are comfortable and in proper order ; also try your horses before starting. Although there is now no danger to be apprehended, it is best to be provided with good fire-arms. Sporting guns will be only an incumbi-ance. Some of the foregoing items for Egypt relating to money, letters, pajDers, and clothing, it will be seen, apply to this journey. Note. — The new hotel in Cairo is now (November, 1867), opened, and a road is rapidly being built between Jaffa and Jeru- salem. APPENDIX. 163 PROVISIONS OF THE "GAZELLE" FURNISHED BY THE DRAGOMAN. A Quarter of Beef at Cairo — Live Sheep — Turkeys — Geese — Chickens — Pigeons — Flour — Rice — Mac- aroni — Vermicelli ■ — ■ Potatoes — Beans — Lentils — Onions — Groats — Tapioca — Sago — Arrowroot — Oat- meal — Maizena — Dried Salt Cod Fish — English Hams — Smoked Tongues — Herrings — Cheshire and Dutch Cheeses — English Table Butter — Native Cooking But- ter — Split Peas — Eggs — Tea — Mocha Coffee — Choc- olate — Loaf Sugar — Sweet Biscuit — Hard Biscuit — Ginger Cakes — Sweet Cakes — Sugared Almonds — Honey — Dried Apricots — Dried Prunes. The following canned articles, — Sardines, Mock Turtle Soup, Green Peas, Beans, Cauliflower, Salsify, Champignons, Tomatoes, Concentrated Milk, Oysters, Mincemeat for Pies, English Plum-Puddings. Also the following kinds of Preserves in jars, — Scotch Marmalade, Raspberry, Strawberry, Greengage Plums, Red-Currant Jelly, Apricots, Damsons, Peaches. Four kinds of English Pickles — Essences — Curry Powder — Sweet Syrup — Oil — Mustard — Vinegar — Salt — Pepper — English Sauces — ■ Lemon Syrup — Raisins — Figs — Almonds — Walnuts — Oranges — Apples — Pears — Bananas — Fresh Vegetables in sea- son — Soap — Oil — Candles. 164 APPENDIX. ARTICLES FUENISHED BY THE PARTY. 60 tin Lanterns made in Cairo for illuminations. 2 Brass Signal Lanterns with colored Globes. Oil and Candles for above — Flag, Pennants, and Hal- yards. Guns, Pistols, and Sporting Equipments. Drums and Tambourines for ci-ew ; Dusters for flies in boat. Fishhooks and Lines ; Shoe-brushes and Blacking. Guide and other Books, Maps, Measuring Tape, Compass, Thermometer. The following are very useful, and are seldom found on board, viz., — a Hammer, Chisel, small Saw, Files, Screwdriver, Gimlets, Pliers, Nails and Tacks, Screws, Cord and Twine, small Hooks for hanging up articles, extra Window-glass, Putty and Tins to set the same. Medicines, &c., best for the voyage, are : Rhubarb, Castor Oil, Seidlitz Powders, Quinine, Laudanum, Nitre, Diarrhoea Mixture, Essence of Peppermint, Brown's Es- sence of Ginger (Swann, No. 12, Rue Castiglione, Paris, is the agent). Cream of Tartar, Arnica, Liniment, Lint, Sticking Plaster, Ej-e-Wash. 2l^=" See Notes for Third Edition, page 167. APPENDIX. 165 TEMPERATUEE IN THE SALOON OF THE DAHABEEH " GAZELLE " DURING 65 DAYS ON THE NILE. Date. Sunrise. 2 P.M. 8 P.M. Wind and Weather. 1866-67. o Dec. 21 65 72 calm and clear. " 22 58 65 60 S. breeze and clear. " 23 56 S.S.W. and cloudy. " 24 56 65 same. " 25 56 65 same. " 26 60 same and clear. " 27 60 75 70 N. breeze and clear. " 28 50 70 ^ , same. " 29 50 65 68 same. " 30 54 70 69 S.E. breeze and clear. " 31 58 70 70 same. Jan. 1 62 75 70 calm, clear. 2 60 70 N. breeze, clear. " 3 45 70 foggy morning, same. " 4 56 N. breeze, same. 5 60 70 70 calm and cloudy. 6 56 65 same. 7 64 75 70 N. wind, partly cloudy. 8 56 77 70 S. light and clear. " 9 60 79 70 N. same. " 10 54 75 N. fresh and clear. " 11 54 77 W. light and clear. " 12 56 75 73 calm and clear. " 13 58 73 same. '< 14 58 same. " 15 54 80 78 same. " 16 60 78 same. " 17 68 75 same. " 18 58 78 same. " 19 58 80 N. fresh W. and clear. " 20 62 79 calm and clear. " 21 56 80 same. " 22 56 80 same. " 23 56 80 70 same. " 24 60 strong S. wind and cloudy. " 25 60 70 same. 166 APPENDIX. Date. Sunrise. 2 P.M. 8 P.M. Wind and Weather. 1867. o o Jan. 26 54 68 69 Strong S. wind and cloudy. " 27 50 70 65 light N. wind, clear. " 28 52 same. " 29 54 78 70 slightly cloudy. " 30 58 N. wind, clear. " 31 60 79 75 calm and clear. Feb. 1 52 70 same. " 2 54 70 same. " 3 60 75 70 same. 4 58 78 72 same. 5 60 70 68 strong N. wind, clear. 6 56 same. 7 54 65 same. 8 52 75 70 same. 9 48 65 light N. wind. " 10 47 60 same. " 11 50 68 65 variable and clear. " 12 62 62 strong N. wind, clear. " 13 50 65 same. " 14 47 75 65 light N. wind, clear. " 15 45 60 fresh ditto, clouds. " 16 46 68 moderate breeze, clear. " 17 50 70 calm and clear. " 18 52 76 65 fresh breeze, clear. " I'J 52 74 68 calm and cloudy. « 20 50 70 68 calm, foggy, and breeze. " 21 54 70 68 calm, clear, and breeze. " 22 52 64 S.W. wind, cloudy. " 23 52 66 S.W. breeze, clear. Note. — The saloon in which the foregoing temperature was taken had no artificial warmth, and was always within 3 to 5 degrees of the heat in the shade outside. NOTES BY THE AUTHOR FOR THIS THIRD EDITION. The following works, published since the foregoing Letters were written, are recommended to the Mle traveller : — Egypt, by Mrs. Clement, published, in 1880, by D. Lothrop & Co., Boston. A concise illustrated history, ancient and modern, in a convenient-sized volume. Egypt as it is, by J. C. McCoan, published in England, 1880, and a new edition in New York, by Dodd, Mead, & Co. , 1882. This contains a vast amount of information by the writer, who made several visits to that country specially to collect statistical and other information not found in any other work, and in the collating of which he was assisted by several of the heads of departments of the Egyptian Govern- ment. A copious appendix gives some very valaable statis- tics of a late date. The splendidly illustrated work entitled Egypt, by Pro- fessor Georg Ebers, published in Leipsic, 1878, translated by Clara Bell, and published in London, Paris, and New York, 1881, in two large volumes, is a most valuable acquisi- tion for home use. Eau du Nil, by E. C. Hope Edwards, chronicles a tour in Egypt and voyage on the Nile by a party of three, in 1880. 168 NOTES BY THE AUTHOR. This is from a journal written on the spot in an off-hand, pleasing manner. It may be stated, without egotism, that none of the fore- going books contain the practical information within a brief compass sought for to undertake a voyage in a Dahabeeh, though such a voyage has been far better described in the two last-named works than in my own. A railway is now in operation to Siout (Assiout), where there is a newly-opened hotel. Flags can be obtained in Cairo, also many things for the voyage not before kept in this progressive city, which has changed much within a decade, and become a fashionable winter resort, like Nice and other cities on the Mediter- ranean. Most of the Dahabeehs are of the same form as those in the days of the Pharaohs, unlike the model of the hull of the English-built " Gazelle," which gives more breadth pro- portionably to length, without diminishing the speed. Their internal arrangement of rooms, however, do not vary much from that of the "Gazelle," and some larger boats are furnished with upright pianos, rich silk draperies, &c. There are various ways of spelling some names of towns of Egypt by writers, without altering their sounds: Daha- 6ee> is spelled Dahabeeyeh; Minieh, spelled Mineeyeh; Sioot, spelled Siout and Assiout ; Assouan with one s, &c. w. w. w. Boston, February, 1883. I^v'"^^ a>.^^ r^ 'W^ *Ms;i :^ >^i ^%. 7^'-^/ ^^p;t.^:^: ^IS& mm^^^k^MM m^ m ^sssft^^^ ^■^£1 S^H^'^^