Class //O^ 
 
/ 
 
 A WANDERER'S JOURNAL 
 
 <^^C> 
 
 BY 
 
 ELIZABETH A. SMITH 
 
 PRIVATELY PRINTED 
 
 New York 
 
 1889 
 
F' 
 
 
A WANDERER'S JOURNAL 
 
 Dec. \, 1885. — Started from Duncan City, Cheboygan 
 Co., Mich., in company with my sister and her hus- 
 band (Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Macdonough), their son, a 
 boy of fourteen, and daughter, a baby of seventeen 
 months, for Detroit, Mich., by the Michigan CentraL 
 We had to change cars once. The weather was snowy 
 and cold ; but the dear baby only laughed, instead of 
 crying, when waiting in the station, or on the platform, 
 and did not seem at all frightened at the whistle, or the 
 bustling around her. We arrived in the city late in the 
 evening, and took rooms at the Biddle House, on JeiTer- 
 son avenue, which we had heard was fitted up, in ele- 
 gant style. — Alas, the disappointment ! The furniture 
 iiad been oiled with fish-oil, and so disagreeable was the 
 odor, that there was no thought of staying there. AVe 
 were very glad to change to the Brunswick, on the 
 following day, where we were more comfortable; al- 
 though my room was very cold, I was glad to escape 
 from the more cheerful atmosphere of our first lodg- 
 ing. 
 
4 A AVANDERER S .lOURXAL 
 
 Dec. '^ith.—^Q started for AVashington, via Buffalo, 
 N. Y., where we stayed all night, at the Tifft House. 
 Here Ave stopped in 1883, Avith father, on our way from 
 the sea-shore. I amused myself part of the time, by 
 watching the people passing, in sleighs, and on foot, 
 through the falling snow, there being good sleighing. 
 Irt going we crossed the new bridge over the Niagara 
 river. The bells on the horses sounded so much like 
 cow-bells that we were quite merry as we drove through 
 the streets from the hotel. 
 
 Dec. Sfh. — We rode in a sleigh to the station of the 
 Erie railroad, which w^e took as far as Elmira, N. Y., 
 where we changed for the Lehigh A^alley railroad. The 
 Pullman cars are commodious, but sleeping for me being 
 almost an impossibility in a car, I peered nearly all 
 night into the darkness ; and could sometimes see the 
 steep inclines, down which the cars sped with an un- 
 steady motion, that impelled me to offer little petitions 
 for safety. 
 
 Dec. 9tJi. — In Washington at about 9 o'c^.ock a.m., in 
 a sprinkle of rain, which increased to a downpour, 
 after we had reached the Ebbitt, in a closed carriage. 
 We took breakfast, rested and bathed, and went down 
 to a five o'clock dinner. Mr. Macdonough and his son 
 Thompson went out to look for rooms. 
 
 Dec. 10 fJi. — From the windows of our parlor there is a 
 view of the Washington Monument, which is square in 
 
AVASHINGTON ^ 
 
 form, tapering to a point like an obelisk. It is built of 
 blocks of marble, of different kinds, from different coun- 
 tries. We can also see the gardens of the Smithsonian 
 Institute, the Potomac river and the heights on the 
 other side. To-day there are little gleams of sunshine. 
 At the station we saw .the silver star, marking the spot 
 where Garfield was shot. Yet people walked over it, as 
 though the spot were common, ignoring or not knowing 
 the fact that sacred blood was there spilled. There is 
 a memorial of marble on the wall, with a box- under it 
 to hold offerings for a charitable institution. 
 
 Just a year ago, on the 0th, our dear father died in 
 slow agony ; and we wished that he nvght have 
 been spared the suffering that he endured. If I could 
 have come here in my youth with father and mother, I 
 would have much enjoyed the trip. But now all seems 
 sad without them. If my sister and her family are im- 
 ])roved in health, it will be well, even if I am iu)t l)etter. 
 It is, after all, difficult to procure the comfoits of liome 
 in traveling especially if one is not strong. We can see 
 a red brick building looking brilliant in the evening 
 with its many lights. 
 
 Dec. 11///.— Changed to Mrs. Bunkers, 623 Penn- 
 sylvania avenue, where we took rooms for a week, and 
 had the odd, but quite disagreeable experience of having 
 meals brought from across the street and served in our 
 rooms. This experience would have been rather funny, 
 if it had not been for the care and annoyance caused by 
 having a table of viands in the rooms in which we 
 
A wanderer's journal 
 
 slept. We were amused by the various modes of con 
 veyance quite new to me, of course. The hansoms, 
 drawn by one horse, with the driver behind, with two 
 wheels, and room for two people, with doors half glass to 
 be opened or shut at pleasure ; the herdic cab, also 
 with two wheels, the doors behind, seats each side, with 
 windows all around, the square box as it appeared, the 
 driver sitting in front, this also drawn by one horse ; and 
 herdic coaches, with one hoTse, and seats on the side, 
 holding each about six or eight people ; fare five cents. 
 The air in them is very close, as they are generally 
 packed Avith passengers. There are five-cent cars, two 
 horses ; and three cent-cars, drawn by one horse. 
 
 Dec. \otli. Suhdaij. — A rainy day. Sister Allie'sdear 
 little baby ill. 
 
 Dec. l4:tJi. Monday. — Another damp day ; but no one 
 seems to mind it, although both coachmen and horses 
 have to be fully protected by oilcloth coats and cover- 
 ings. 
 
 Dec. lijfh. Tuesday. — Invited by ^Irs. Bunker. I 
 went with her in a herdic coach to the Capitol, where 
 we walked through one hall, looking at the side halls, 
 decorated with paintings of birds and flowers, land- 
 scapes, and heads of celebrated men. On the wall to 
 the right as we entered is a picture of Fulton and 
 the Hudson river before him, beautified by his first 
 steamer. 
 
AVASHINGTON < 
 
 Dec. H')th. Wednesdai/. — (j\miiged. rooms to 1410 
 Pennsylvania avenuGj kept by a German wlio has a cafe 
 and dining-room on the first floor. The rooms are very 
 bright and nattily furnished, and there is a French 
 tonch about them, evidently having been beautified with 
 laste rathei- than expense. The floors iiave carpets, ar- 
 ranged as rugs in the center ; the woodwork between 
 the carpets and wall being oiled. The doors, door trim- 
 mings and baseboards are also finished in light colored 
 oak, which gives a very bright appearance to the rooms. 
 This arenue presents a very busy aspect all of the 
 week, as well as Sundays, with the constant tramp of 
 the horses' feet. Thei-e are so many kinds of carriages, 
 cabs, coaches, five-cent and three-cent cars, private 
 carriages, some with cnachmen and footmen, single car- 
 riages, dog carts, ladies driving their own little carts, 
 buggies, hacks, hotel omnibuses, coupes, express teams, 
 hay w^agons, some drawn by four horses, some by five — 
 driver riding on one horse — that there never seems to 
 be. any cessation until past midnight. 
 
 Friday, Dec. \Sfli. — Mr. Macdonough,Thompson and 
 I went to the Capitol in a herdic coach. I think that 
 these herdic coaches are rather airless and stifling, 
 though convenient, as they are driven to the sidewalk, 
 thus avoiding the necessity of crossing the street. I en- 
 joyed looking at the fine paintings, in the rotunda of the 
 Capitol, the faces being lifelike and earnest, especially 
 in the ^" Embarkation of the Pilgrims from Holland." 
 Of the statues, I admired that of Garfield, and particu- 
 
8 A wanderer's journal 
 
 Icirly that of Fulton, holding. Id his hand the model of 
 his first steamboat. His face is fine and intellectual. I 
 did not like quite as well the statue of Lafayette. The 
 statue of Governor AVinthrop is especially grand, and 
 where the frilled and lace shirt bosoms are worn, the 
 representation is perfect. There is also hanging on the 
 wall a fine painting of Garfield ; particularly impressive 
 are the faces in these pictures. In the firsts Lincoln and 
 his cabinet; every face expresses earnestness, character 
 of high type is stamped on every feature, nobility of 
 soul, of purpose looks forth from every eye. '• West- 
 ward Ho " stamps indelibly on the mind the figures of 
 the eager hopeful seekers for new homes, Avith their 
 faces turned ever toward the goal where they expect to 
 reap the reward of ^their struggles in abundant harvests 
 and happy homes. 
 
 Dec. l^fJi. Saturday. — Thompson Macdonough and I 
 rode in the five-cent cars to Georgetown and return. 
 Saw a house there built of old-time brick. We looked 
 into the canal ; and saw a little of the Potomac, with the 
 hills in the distance. 
 
 Dec. '20fh. Sunday. — Walked in the afternoon as 
 far as the Treasury-grounds, again enjo^dng a glimpse of 
 the distant hills, though the walk was rather lonely. 
 
 Dec. 21st. Monday. — Went with Mr. Macdonough 
 and Thompson to the Capitol. Sat for a few minutes 
 in the House of Representatives. We Avandered through 
 
WASHINGTON ^ 
 
 the halls, and saw and admired the painting of ''' Lincoln 
 Signing the Emancipation Proclamation " in the midst 
 of his cabinet. Also ''' AV est ward IIo " and beneath it, 
 the 'Hxolden Gate'' by Bierstidt. Came, down the 
 stone steps in front of the Capitol, looking with pleasure 
 at the statuary and enjoying the fresh air. 
 
 Dec. 22d. Tucsdai/. — Went witli Thompson Ma-jdon- 
 ougii to the shops, to buy some dollies for my niece- 
 baby. 
 
 Dec. 2od. Wediieschdj. — Walked quite a long way. I 
 do not think, the shops prettier than in Detroit, 
 though they are decorated with every care for Christ- 
 mas, and full of toys of all kinds, and pretty confections. 
 A chair made of candy was quite unique. There were, 
 also, baskets made of pink and white candy. We stopped 
 near the Centre Market, to see some English holly. 
 The colored people had it for sale, as also letters and 
 wreaths made of white moss — resembling that which is 
 found clinging to fir trees on the shores of the Northern 
 lakes — with leaves, and holly berries, and the red ber- 
 ries of a shrub which the colored people called spice- 
 bush, which looks like a shrub that grows in the sAvamps 
 of Michigan. 
 
 Friday, 2bth Dec. — Our Christmas spent very quiet- 
 ly. Thompson Macdonough arranged a Santa Clans 
 display of a few toys and tops, for Baby Mary May, on a 
 bureau wTeathed with green. We also put some branches 
 
10 A WANDERER S JOURNAL 
 
 of liolly in the vases on the parlor mantel, and my 
 nephew gave me a green wreath which I hung on my 
 bureau. 
 
 Derrmbi'T ;)0, 188G. — Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, 
 'l.liompson and I visited the National Museum. AV'e 
 saw a suit of clothes that had been worn by AVashington, 
 two sets of dishes— blue delf and china; some glassware, 
 some old chests, some knives and forks, Avith peculiar 
 metal handles; the old chair in which he last sat; liis 
 camp equipments — memorials that speak of close eco- 
 nomical appointments in many Avays, and of splendor and 
 good living in other respects. There were two old por- 
 traits of General and Mrs. AVashington. The statue of 
 Washington and tlie Indian group Avere very lifelike. 
 The great palms, surrounding the gold-fish pond, 
 seemed a refreshing sight in the midst of so uiany old 
 relics. The animals needed a much longer time to ad- 
 mire the beauty of some, and to Avonder at the hideous- 
 ness of others. I Avould have liked to stay longer 
 among the minerals and boats, the former so. beautiful; 
 the latter so curious, especially the lifeboats, and the 
 various canoes and boats of different tribes, and of dif- 
 ferent stations. We glanced at the medals, and the let- 
 ters of eminent men, and the jeAvels. The models of 
 towns belonging to ancient tribes found in Arizona 
 evince skill, and the mound builders, found in North 
 Carolina, are wonderful. I must not forget to mention 
 the aerolites, and the elegant specimens of marble, at 
 Avhich we glanced Avitli a Avish that one could return to 
 
WASHINGTON 11 
 
 give more time to an exhibit in which there is so mnch to 
 see, so mnch nsef nl information, so many of the wonders 
 of the earth, and so mnch hnman skill displayed. We 
 glanced at the great variety of mnsical instrnments, and 
 left the bnilding, not having any more strength or time, 
 bnt glad that we had the opportunity of seeing so much 
 of the curious and beautiful. 
 
 The huts of the ancient tribes were oval in form— a 
 grey mud color — and appeared like clay mounds. 
 
 On Jan. \sf. — Mother's birthday. I placed some flow- 
 ers near father's and mother's pictures. My sister Allie, 
 Mrs. Macdonough, gave me a hunch of violets. 
 New Year's day was bright and warm. From my win- 
 dow I watched the procession going to call on the Presi- 
 dent. 
 
 Jan. StJt. — Thompson Macdonough and I took a ride 
 in the street cars around the city for five cents, which 
 we thought a very cheap excursion. 
 
 Saturdai/, dfh.— Took a short walk a.m. Very cold 
 weather with snow and sleighing. The reports are of 
 terrible cold all over the country, even far South. In 
 Manitoba, N. W., from 50° to G4° minus. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 10/A.— Thompson Macdonough and I 
 went to St. John's Church. It is a quaint old church of 
 historic association on account of several presidents hav- 
 ing belonged to it. 
 
12 A WANDERER S JOURNAL 
 
 Jan. lltJi. Mojiday. — Mrs. Macclonongh and I went 
 to G street, to order some work at the Industrial school 
 kept by the Sisters of Charity (Roman Catholic), who in 
 their pretty bluish-grey dresses and white bonnets with 
 large capes, rosary and crosses at their side, and with their 
 agreeable manners, are very interesting, and quite win 
 one's admiration. 
 
 Jan. 12 th. Tuesday, v.y\. — I took a short walk, 
 and rode in the three-cent cars to Eighteenth street and 
 return. From three p.m. to nine o'clock in the evening, 
 there was what was termed a carnival, which was sim2:)ly 
 a rallying of sleighs and cutters of various kinds ; and 
 their occupants put the horses to all the speed thev 
 dare for sleigh rides, and to use the snow while it 
 lasted. There were one or two comic features, one an 
 advertisement in the form of a board house coA^ered Avitli 
 paper, another, a common sled, with men and women 
 in masques and grotesque costumes, as a woman fanning 
 herself in derision, a man j)laying a musical instrument. 
 I think the Carnival was only a name for enjoying the 
 sleighing while the snow lasted. Policemen, tall and 
 stalwart, moderated the speed of the revellers, and saw 
 that pedestrians were not knocked down — a wise precau- 
 tion — for when cars, herdics, hansoms, cabs, sleighs, 
 double and single, are all being driven at full speed, 
 though the streets are broad, crossing becomes danger- 
 ous especially to ladies. 
 
 Jan.lWi. Wednesday p.m. — Mr. Macdonough went 
 with me to the Botanical Gardens. The ferns are vei-v 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 13 
 
 beautiful. I admired them more than any of tlie 
 strange and varied products of all countries. I saw 
 banana trees growing, with their clusters of fruit— not 
 yet ripe. The orchids were very odd. Many were gro- 
 tesque in form. Some of the blossoms, of which there 
 were few, were beautiful. The gardener told us that 
 blooms were not left long ungathered. 
 
 Jan. \Uh. Thursday.— Took a short walk. We have 
 had very cold, clear weather. The temperature has 
 risen a little, though yet rather low ; and the sleighing 
 is not yet used, though it is now nearly a week since 
 the snow storm. 
 
 Jan. loth. Friday.— \Nq, Mr. and Mrs. Macdon- 
 ough and I went to G street by herdic, down Penn- 
 sylvania avenue to the stores, where we made a few 
 purchases, looked into the store windows, and home 
 again to our apartments. 
 
 Jan. I6th. Saturday.— Mv. Macdonough went with 
 me to the State, War and Navy Departments, where we 
 saw in the library, the renowned Senator Evarts. He 
 is quite a small man. We saw the original Declaration 
 of Independence and the desk on which it was written. 
 The names of the signers are nearly obliterated. We 
 also saw a sword that belonged to Washington, the 
 silver urn presented to General Hull, and a missile sent 
 by the French government to the United States, as a 
 memorial of the French Commune. 
 
u 
 
 A WANDERER 8 JOURNAL 
 
 Jcui.Vith. Snnd(iij.^X very quiut day ; I tried a 
 Avalk, but tlie frozen rain and ice on the pavements 
 rendered walking dangerous. 
 
 y^^ii- ^^^t^>- M(>}ir/(ff/.—Mv. and Mrs. Macdonougli, 
 Tliompsou and I went across to Union Town, in Vir- 
 ginia, and took :\Iadame Fleischman, our landlady, Avitli 
 us. We took the five-cent Pennsylvania avenue cars to 
 the ]\avy Yard. From there a three-cent car carried us 
 across the east branch of tlie Potomac. There are 
 some pretty houses on the top of the hills. On an ex- 
 treme height is a lunatic asylum, to which we did not 
 go. At the foot of the hill is a characteristic store kept 
 by colored people. We saw in the water the Monitor, 
 celebrated in the war with the Southern States. 
 
 Jan. 20flt. Weduesda I/. —Mrs. Macdonough and I 
 and Thompson went to the industrial school to see about 
 some work. 
 
 Jan. '2-2(1. Fri d a i/.~Thomi:>son Macdonough and I 
 went in aherdiccoach up to Fifteenth st., to New York 
 avenue, up New York avenue to H st., and returned 
 the same way. The street is quite pretty, lined with 
 trees on either side, forming in summer a leafy boAver. 
 
 Jan. 23d. Saturday.— Took a ride in a herdic cab, 
 around the Capitol and White House. 
 
 Jan. 2U]i. Sundai/.—Mv. Macdonough and I went 
 to the First Congregational Church on the corner of G 
 and Tenth streets, and heard a very good sermon on 
 
WASHINGTON 15 
 
 faith in God and trust in man. '• In all our lives, in all 
 we do, we walk by faith," said the speaker, ''and as the 
 little child, learning to walk, has faith that it will be 
 helped by its mother's outstretched arms, so we must 
 walk trusting to the help from God, which will be held 
 out to us, in our efforts to do right." The text was 
 Hebrews, 11th chapter, 1st verse. The church is large, 
 built of brick. It has a fine organ and good music. 
 
 Jan. '2bth. Mondaij. — K rainy, misty day ; l3ut in 
 the afternoon, I went in the car to a store on Pennsyl- 
 vania avenue, where views are sold, and bought two 
 dozen for three dollars. 
 
 Jan. 26tJi. Tuesday. — My sister and I went to G 
 street, then to Pennsylvania avenue. The afternoon 
 was bright, mild and sunny, and my sister's baby who 
 was with us, in her nurse's arms, was as bright as the 
 day. 
 
 Jan. 28th. Tliursdai/. — Went to a store, and bought 
 some more Washington views. 
 
 Jan. 30th. Saturdaij. — Bright p. m. when I went 
 alone, down Pennsylvania avenue, in street car ; looked 
 into some stores, made some purchases, and returned. 
 
 Jail. 31st. Sunday. — Mr. Macdonough and I went to 
 the First Congregational Church, and heard a sermon 
 on peace, by a brother of Gen, Howard. 
 
 Feb. bth. Friday. — Bitterly cold, with snow on the 
 ground. I went in a three-cent car up Pennsylvania 
 
16 A WANDERER^S JOURNAL 
 
 avenue to a book-store^ where I bought some paper and 
 a book for Mary May Macdonougli my little niece, and 
 returned in a herdic coach. Was a little nervous, not 
 being accustomed to going in the street alone. 
 
 Feb. Sth. Monday. — Went to G- street, and down 
 Pennsylvania avenue. I lost my way a little, and had 
 to walk in the slushy snow for quite a distance. The 
 newspapers talk of the danger of a flood, from the 
 breaking up of the ice in the river. 
 
 Feb. 14///. Sundai/. — Valentine's day. AVeather all 
 day very warm and bright. In the evening, I went 
 with Mr. Macdonough to the Congregational Church, and 
 heard an excellent sermon and beautiful music and 
 singing. The organ is played by a blind professor, and 
 their choir sang in perfect accord. The discourse was 
 arranged to show that capabilities for evil were equally 
 capabilities for good if rightly used. 
 
 Feb. \bili. Mondaij.—ln the afternoon, I went down 
 Pennsylvania avenue in a herdic coach, after having been 
 to G street. Met my sister, who had gone with her baby 
 and nurse Annie, who wheeled the baby carriage. I went 
 into some shops, and came home in time to escape a rain 
 storm, and to see Mrs. Bunker, in whose rooms we 
 boarded for a short time, and Avho was very kind to us 
 
 Feb. \Qtli. Taef^dajj. — Much coolei', even cold, from 
 which we suffeied a little ; for we had packed our furs 
 A.M. My nephew persuaded me to go to the bird store 
 
WASHINGTON lY 
 
 with him. We saw there some very tine birds. Among 
 them was a cardinal bird which reminded me of a pet bird 
 of the same kind which we once possessed, and in whose 
 pretty dainty ways, bright coloring, and warbling mel- 
 ody, in early Spring, we delighted. By taking Innch 
 and dinner down stairs, I again succeeded in going down 
 Pennsylvania avenue shopping. 
 
 Feb. VI th. — I went with Mr. Macdonough to see the 
 White House. We were shown into the great East 
 Room where large receptions are held. There is quite 
 a pretty view from the windows over the grounds, and 
 the river and hills beyond in Virginia. The true orna- 
 ment of the room is, I think, the portrait of Martha 
 Washington. She is standing, and is lovely of counte- 
 nance, and stately in a dress of wdiite silk or satin 
 slightly trained over a petticoat of some material red in 
 color. Then we were shown a kind of hall, where were 
 hung portraits of Lincoln, Garfield, and several presi- 
 **dents. The Green Room, the Blue Room, furnished in 
 blue and gilt, where are the portraits of President 
 Arthur, Mrs. Hayes, wife of President Hayes, Mrs. 
 Tyler, wife of President Tyler — dressed as a bride— 
 and Mrs. Taylor, another president's wife. On the 
 mantel is a gilt clock, presented by Lafayette to Wash- 
 ington, and some very old furniture brought from 
 seclusion by President x\rthur and placed here. The 
 Red Room, tlie family parlor, is a cosy room. The 
 usher very kindly showed us thror.gh the conservatory, 
 where we sjiw aaaleas, hyp.^iiiths and cii^ierarias in very 
 
18 A wanderer's journal 
 
 beautiful bloom. There was, also, an orchid ; one part 
 of the flower had the form of a nun. 
 
 Feb. ISfJi. Thursday.— \<Qni to hear some ladies 
 speak at a Woman's Rights' Convention. Saw and 
 heard Susan B. Anthony, Mrs. Mary Eastman, of Massa- 
 chusetts, Mrs. Sewel, and others. Was quite surprised 
 and pleased at the appearance of Miss Anthony, who, 
 instead of being tall, angular, and uncouth, as I sup- 
 posed, is rather small, and very ladylike. The conven- 
 tion was held at the Universalist church, on the corner 
 of Thirteeeth street and L. We took the car to New 
 York avenue, where w^e had an exchange to Fourteenth 
 street, and walked about half a block. 
 
 Feh. 19.-/i. Friday. — AVent in the street car to the 
 optician's. 
 
 Feb. 2'2d. WasMngton' s Birthday. — We started for 
 Jacksonville, Florida, passing, after leaving North Caro- 
 lina, through a very swampy country, settled apparently 
 almost altogether by colored people, some very poor, in 
 houses and huts thatched, the chimneys being on the 
 outside some of the dwellings built of sand or clay, in a 
 framework of wood. There were some settlements, 
 where houses were new, well built, and whitewashed, the 
 land cleared and cattle grazing in the enclosures, al- 
 tliough it hardly seemed as if, in some places, there could 
 l;c verdure enough for food. There seemed to be un- 
 limited tracts of red 'pine of small growth, which was 
 
JACKSONVILLE 19 
 
 being cut into piles of wood for burning. We also saw 
 several saw-mills. 
 
 Tuesday, 2?id. — We arrived in Jacksonville about 
 noon, tired and dusty, and took the omnibus to the Ho- 
 tel Everett. 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 24:fh. — A little warmer, though we 
 do not find the weather uncomfortable. The leaves and 
 fruit of the orange trees have been blighted by the win- 
 ter's extreme and, as Ave are told, unusual cold and frost; 
 therefore we cannot see the white blossoms, which we 
 hoped to see adorning the trees in beauty. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 2(}fli. — I walked on the broad piazza a 
 few moments, listened to some fine singing in the large 
 parlor — my sister's baby enjoying, also, the music. Es- 
 pecially good was the sweet old song ^'Kathleen Ma- 
 vourneen." In the evening heard a band play some 
 fine selections. 
 
 • Saturday, Feb. 2Uh. — Moved into rooms on the fourth 
 floor, Avith a fine view of the river and the country 
 around Jacksonville. 
 
 Tuesday, March 2d. — Cleur and sunny. Took a ride 
 in the street cars drawn by mules, with colored driver. 
 We saAV peach trees in bloom, and Avild clematis, yellow 
 in color of blossoms about an inch in length, half an inch 
 Avidth, tapering like a morning glory, and funnel shaped. 
 
 'lliursday, March 4:th. — Sunshine early, a.m. cloudy. 
 The rest of the day rainy. Mr. Macdonough and his son 
 Thompson have taken a trip to Green Cove. 
 
20 A avatsderer's journal 
 
 Saturday, March G/'/^— Trees budding— took a short 
 walk. 
 
 Sunday, March 1th.— ^h. Macdouough, my brother- 
 in-law, went with me to a pretty church built of wood, 
 small and neat. We learned that the money for its 
 erection was contributed by a Avealthy grocer, who de- 
 voted much of his time and money toward supporting 
 it. After the services, we walked a little way while 
 waiting for the cars, and saw peach trees in bloom, roses 
 in bud, and ^^ellow jasmine which, we are told, is poi- 
 sonous, if brought near the mouth, though ladies at the 
 hotel come in with large sprays of it on their dresses, as 
 corsage bouquets. 
 
 Thursday, March llth.—^lw Macdonough and his son 
 Thompson have gone to Enterprise, which is about half 
 a day's journey from Jacksonville. 
 
 Saturday, March loth.—l took a walk to see some 
 Florida curiosities. The alligators did not appear to me 
 so disgusting as I had thought ; and the wild cat looked 
 like a beautiful pussy of greyish brown color. I think 
 tli:-t the custom of teazing animals in captivity — as 
 punching the alligator, as it lay in a tank of water, to 
 liear it roar — is wrong, and only increases the wild- 
 noss and ferocity of their nature. 
 
 Thursday, March 18//^— Walked around by the St. 
 James Hotel to a curiosity shop, and bought some 
 ti'iilos. Very, vory tired ! 
 
JACKSON VrLLR 21 
 
 Friday, March 19//^. — Took a long drive through 
 some streets in Jacksonville and suburbs. AVe saw 
 some very pretty residences with grounds by the river 
 side. The localities were named Riverside, Brooklyn, 
 Lavilla. The woods are beginning to put on their 
 Spring garb. Thompson Macdonough gathered some 
 dogwood blossoms, which are much larger than at the 
 North. My sister took her baby ; and the child's de- 
 light was delightful to see and hear. The magnolia 
 leaves looked very pretty and green ; and the grey moss 
 hanging from the trees had a very weird effect. Were 
 it not for the tropical foliage, here and there, one 
 would fancy this to be a northern wood. The road 
 led to the river St. John, where was a pebbly beach. 
 In coming home, we went to see the Jacksonville water- 
 works. The water flows from a sulphur sf)ring, is puri- 
 fied by the exposure to the air, and then conveyed in 
 pipes to supply the town. 
 
 Mondaij, March 22<:?.— We all took a long drive in the 
 suburbs of Jacksonville. We passed a grove of orange 
 trees, just budding into leaf, and returned home with 
 some curious yellow flowers. The odor of the 
 Florida flowers is rather oppressive to those un- 
 accustomed to the heavy perfume. Some of the 
 woods seemed rich in luxuriant trees and vines. Then 
 would occur a waste of pine woods, barren and lonely. 
 The driver pulled some of the grey moss from the 
 trees, when, behold, a tiny snake was curled up in it. 
 Then we secured another piece, which was lost by the 
 
22 A wanderer's journal 
 
 motion of the wagon: so that, after all, I was indebted to 
 a flower-girl for a bunch of the odd grey streamer to 
 take homo. 
 
 Tuesday, March 2od. i\m. — Went to Pablo Beach. 
 It is a beautiful stretch of sand, wdiite and firm. My 
 sister took her baby, wiio, seated on her father's coat, 
 Avhich was spread on the sand, made a pretty picture 
 in Jier white dress and cap, laughing and playing with 
 the sand and shells, some of which we also gathered as 
 we roamed on the beach. Quite an odd, but commodi- 
 ous hotel w^as being built on the bluff above the beach. 
 An eccentric officer. General Spinner, and family were 
 living in a tent near the hotel. 
 
 Wednesdai/, JIarch 24rfJ/. — Took a short ride on the 
 street cars, and a walk. 
 
 Tliursdaij, March '2ofh. — Warm and bright. Went 
 to the Florida Floral Exhibit. I Avas quite interested in 
 the fruit and flowers. There were pansies, iris blooms, 
 the lilies of the countr}-, camellias and violets, all hav- 
 ing blossomed in the open air. 
 
 Friday, March 'liifh. — Made some purchases at the 
 Palmetto store, which is a short distance from the hotel, 
 and to which I walked. A beautiful Indian woman sells 
 pretty w^ork, and a white woman sells various baskets 
 and hats made of palmetto strips, a bunch of which I 
 bought as a curiosity. 
 
JACKSONVILLE 23 
 
 Saturday, March 27th. — Warm. Walked a short 
 distance, and went in a street car toward tlie wood by 
 the river side. 
 
 Tuesday, March 30th. — Clear, cooler, high winds. 
 Thunder and lightning at night. 
 
 Thursday, Jjml 1st. — Cold and clear. Wisteria in 
 hloom. 
 
 Saturday, Ajjril 3d. — I took a walk to the shell 
 store. Such a pretty store ! The shells are brought 
 principally from the Bahamas. There were lovely de- 
 signs in sprays of flowers and leaves, made of shells and 
 fish-scales, as brooches and lace pins. 
 
 Suiiday, April 4/A.— Walked to the Methodist Church, 
 and heard a very good sermon and singing. There 
 were bundles of tea-roses and lilies on the desk and or- 
 gan. The church was quite large, and the communion 
 service not unlike that of the Protestant Episcopal 
 Church. As all were invited, I partook of the sacred 
 memorials. It is a little strange that I should be all 
 alone in a strange church. The Avalk tired me, for I 
 have had rheumatism for the past two or three weeks, 
 so that sometimes I could hardly turn. 
 
 Monday, April Hh. — I walked a little way. 
 
 Tuesday, April (ifh. — Walked to the curiosity store 
 and returned very tired. Weather bright and cold. 
 
 Thursday, Ap)ril 8th. — Walked the length of two 
 blocks, to buy some curiosities for the children at home 
 
24 A WANDERER^S JOURNAL 
 
 Tuesday. Aj)ril 13///.— Very, very warm. Left Jack- 
 sonville on the 2 o'clock train arriying at Sayannali 
 abont 8 o'clock in the starlio-]it eyeninc:, after a ride 
 through a part of the country which had been flooded 
 by the recent rains, and some of which was yet covered 
 with muddy water. In some places we seemed to be 
 riding through a river, so far stretched the water on 
 either side, and the sensation was more comfortable 
 when we were once more on dry ground. In many por- 
 tions the colored people were clearing the land, making 
 huge fires, which with their cabins, many of the doors 
 open, showing also fires on their hearths, gave a weird 
 aspect to the woods through which the cars passed. We 
 had quite a long ride in the carriage to the hotel ; but 
 the night was clear, and my sister's baby chatted in 
 sweet fashion all the way. A room, overlooking a lane, 
 was given me. The air Avas impure, and the water in 
 the pitchers in the room had a muddy appearance, I 
 suppose from the recent floods which may have ren- 
 dered it inn)ossible to procure clear water. The trees 
 were in full leaf, and many of the shrubs white with 
 bloom. There is quite a pretty park in front of the ho- 
 tel, with a monument to Gen. Green in the center. 
 There are some dogwood trees trained as standards, the 
 tops covered with the large handsome white flowers with 
 green center. I can hear a mocking bird whistling con- 
 stantly. 
 
 Wednesdai/, Afjn'l 15///. — We took a drive to the Bon- 
 aventure Cemj'tary. It is a beautiful place, but the 
 gnats were so abundant that we could not enjoy, ai we 
 
SAVANNAH 25 
 
 wished, the beauty of the place. Many of the resting- 
 places were decorated with cut flowers and blooming- 
 plants. Conspicuous among the latter was one called 
 Jtt. the South the bridal wreath, l)ut which has a fra- 
 grance like the EnglisJi hawthorn. Englisli ivy cov- 
 ered some of the lots. The grey moss Avaving perpetu- 
 ally from the tall old trees, seemed a constant emblem 
 of mourning. We heard a red-bird whistliiig in the 
 trees, but only once could we obtain a glimpse of the 
 charming whistler. We admired the vegetable gardens, 
 with peas in bloom, potatoes about six inches high, wiste- 
 ria climbing over the balconies of the houses, and bright- 
 ening them with its purple l>loom. We passed through 
 a toll-gate, reminding us of Canada. Many of the 
 houses in Savannah aj^pear like castles in the olden time 
 of which we read. The roofs are srpiare and flat as in 
 Jacksonville, Florida, with parapets. There are many 
 parks, each ornamented with a monument. Forsyth 
 park, we are told, is the principal park in the city, and 
 is ornamented with beautiful trees, among them are the 
 loveliest dog-wood trees I ever saw. There is a foun- 
 tain in the center, azaleas m l)loom planted in the 
 ground. Tea-roses climb on the balconies, and are 
 blooming, though not quite in such abundance as in 
 Florida. Some of the churches are quaint and old. 
 The hotel iu which we stayed seemed very old. The 
 shutters on the bedroom windows were broken. The 
 dining-room had niches in the wall, as if for statuary, 
 but filled with dry grasses. The old doors opening into 
 the kitchen were brown, and a white patch of worn-off 
 
26 A wanderer's journal 
 
 paint, gave to the room an appearance of broken-down 
 grandeur. In fact the whole house was a remnant of 
 old-time attempted splendor never entirely carried into 
 execution. 
 
 :N"otwithstanding the age of the hotel it Avas kept in 
 nice order and the service w^as good, the table abund- 
 antly supplied with food nicely cooked. Another hotel, 
 where formerly planters stayed, was pointed out to us; 
 grim and solitary it looked, stripped of its former state 
 and grandeur. The deliciously salt air of Cliarleston 
 was peculiarly agreeable to me ; and a longer stay in 
 tliat interesting city, would have been very gratifying. 
 
 Tliursdaii, AjJn'l IQth. — We took the two o'clock train 
 for Charleston, where we arrive at about six o'clock 
 P.M., and took rooms at the Charleston House, a hotel 
 said to have been built fifty years ago. It has immense 
 pillars in front, colonial style. The bed-rooms seem clean, 
 but the furniture is old. There are brass knobs on the 
 doors of our rooms. The house is built around a court, 
 which has a grass, plot in the center, on which walked 
 in solitary state, a rooster that seemed to crow for the 
 benefit of the guests. 
 
 Friday, Ajiril 17th, a.m.— AVe were quite tired ; and 
 I felt almost exhausted after dinner. I had to lie down 
 all of the morning. We, my sister, her husband, son 
 and baby, took a drive around the city, noting the points 
 of interest, the long old market, tlie various churches, 
 almost all of them with the tombs around or near them, 
 the battery with its sea-wall against which the river 
 
CHARLESTON 27 
 
 waves dashed, the spray touching our faces as we drove 
 along, so close is the road to the water. The old, old 
 massive houses brought to memory the storied past and 
 the mists of vanished years fell over me. AYe saw some 
 lovely gardens witli roses in bloom. In one place the 
 wisteria was festooned from tree to tree, a lovely sight; 
 We went to a rice-mill, but they were not working; 
 however, w^e were kindly given a small branch or spray 
 of rice by a civil and agreeable old gentleman at the 
 office. Among the ancient churches was 8t. Philips" with 
 its odd old toml)stones ; near it were some made of brick. 
 We drove to the Magnolia cemetery, a very beautiful 
 place carefully kept. A spot where confederate soldiers 
 are buried was surrounded by a privet hedge, a monu- 
 ment in the center ; flowers in abundance, especially the 
 favorite bridal wreath and lovely crimson roses, were 
 ever present. My sister's little baby girl . wished to get 
 out of the carriage, and her father lifted her and seated 
 for a few moments on a ledge of the monument. In her 
 Avhite dress she seemed like a dove of peace, a sign that 
 war should be no more between the brothers of these 
 free United States. There was a pond in one part of 
 the cemetery spanned by a rustic bridge. We were 
 allowed in one portion of the city to drive into the 
 grounds of a private residence. A house for birds 
 claimed our admiration. It was enclosed with wire and 
 contained love-birds, parrots, macaws, white cockatoos, 
 Java sparrows with a wire cage for the monkeys. There 
 was also a space in the yard for English pheasants, a 
 small grotto made of pieces of rocks and covered with 
 
28 A wanderer's journal 
 
 periwinkle in bloom, and in the shadow in front of it a 
 tin}^ pool where fish might play. In another part was 
 a fountain in the basin of which alligators were sporting. 
 AVeigelias and roses were in bloom. We thought the 
 yard a gc^m, and we were loth to leave it, so many 
 beauties did the small but pretty garden contain. 
 King street was very interesting, with its narrow way, 
 the shops almost within reaching distance from one 
 side to the other, and reminding us of royalty and 
 Canada ; King street being the principal street in 
 Toronto and Hamilton, prominent cities of the Do- 
 minion. 
 
 Satunlaij, April 17 fh. — x.m. Walked down to the 
 market. How curious appeared the tiles on the roof, as 
 well as on that of many houses, giving them a quaint- 
 ness to one who had never before seen them. The col- 
 ored wonuMi with their bright head-dresses, and large 
 gilt, hooped ear-rings, and their smiling faces, as they 
 presented for sale green peas, cabbages, radishes, and 
 bunches of herbs and roots, made pictures worthy of an 
 artist's pencil and brush. ^Ye gave a piece of silver to a 
 butcher for a morsel of meat to throw to the buzzards, 
 that seem invisible until invited by food to appear. 
 They are said to be the scavengers of the city, and are 
 not allowed to be destroyed. The walk was very tire- 
 some, though interesting. We were disappointed in our 
 design to visit the magnoli.i gardens outside of the city. 
 I forgot to mention that by the side of the railroad, 
 between Savannah and Charleston, swamp azaleas were 
 \)looming in masses, and the woods were filled with dog- 
 
WASHINGTON 29 
 
 wood in the loveliest white bloom, that proved to be n 
 feast of beauty to my eyes, never before enjoyed — I so 
 love that white floAver. We bought some bunches of the 
 pink azalea from small colored boys who were selling 
 them at five cents a bunch, but the perfume was so dis- 
 agreeable to me that I was compelled to put them on 
 the outside of the window, though I pressed one as a 
 specimen. 
 
 P.M. — Started for Washington at about G o'clock, 
 arriving at about 3 o clock p.m. on Sunday. The coun- 
 try through which we passed Avas partly under good cul- 
 tivation, especially through North Carolina and Virginia. 
 There were large pieces of land planted with strawber- 
 ries outside of Charleston, intended, I suppose, for the 
 Northern market. We had quite a wearisome night on 
 the cars. We were on a bullet car where lunches are 
 served in a very neat and tasteful manner. We had 
 dainty sandwiches, good tea, and bread and butter, and 
 eggs if we wished, served in pretty dishes and cups with 
 clean white napery. Very tired were we at the end of 
 our journey. 
 
 Monday, April 19///.— Clear and fine. AVashington 
 in quite a commotion about the arrival of the Seventh 
 regiment. We watched them from a small balcony at the 
 hotel, which was decorated in honor of the occasion, as 
 Avere many buildings, especially the Ebbitt. The crowd, 
 to my eyes, numbered more than the regiment. 
 
 Tuesday, April 20th. — AVent to the station, with Mr. 
 Ma,cdonorgh, to pec ^,bont a ch^qrvo in my trunk, p.m., 
 
30 A avanderer's journal 
 
 went across the street, to Mrs. Carpenter's rooms, at Mr. 
 Fleischman's, to see the troops march down Pennsyl- 
 vania avenue. They marched in good order. Their 
 uniforms were handsome; all gray when coming into the 
 city, and white, when marching on Tuesday. In the 
 afternoon we moved to 1485 H st., where we took 
 rooms. The house is very large, quite handsomely fur- 
 nished, though apparently old. We learned that it was 
 built by a wealthy Marylander many years ago. The 
 doors, from my room into the hall are double, when open 
 would admit two people arm in arm. The baseboard is 
 high. A mirror in dark wood-work frame on the mantel, 
 a few pictures, ornaments, books, some tiny tables, a 
 folding-bed, a long kind of table, on which is placed my 
 nephew's pretty red-bird, brought from Elorida, a sofa 
 rocking chair, two arm chairs, complete the furnishing 
 of my room. Later, my nephew's alligator and two 
 small turtles, in a large tin-pan, w^ere added. I some- 
 times stroked the alligator's ugly head, and found that 
 he was thus lulled to sleep. When we were at Willard's, 
 an officer of the 7th was presented by President Cleve- 
 land, for his company, with a gold ornament, in the ghape 
 of the figure 7 in diamonds. The cadets from Orchard 
 Lake, Michigan, near Detroit, came to Washington to 
 meet the 7th ; and they were really, in appearance, quite 
 a credit to the state. 
 
 Wednesdaij , April 21st. — There is quite a pretty gar- 
 den at the back of the house, in which there is a tulip- 
 
WASHINGTON 31 
 
 tree in bloom. It is a little lonely in this back-room ; 
 but Cherry is whistling for company. 
 
 Thursday, Ajjril 2'2(l. — I walked a short distance^ 
 but found the pavement very hot from the heat of the 
 sun. The trees are being fast robed in beautiful leaves ; 
 and the shrub magnolia is in bloom. It is very pretty. 
 The one near the house is shaded red and cup-shaped. 
 
 There is a head of Washington, carved in wood, over 
 one of the dark panelled doors of my room. How much 
 the old doors remind me of houses in Toronto, Canada! 
 Sometimes I could almost fancy myself in the back parlor 
 of one house where years ago I visited. It needed but the 
 tea-table, without cloth and highly polished, and the 
 little company, the s Iver, the china, and few additional 
 pieces of furniture to make complete the picture. 
 
 April 2od. Friday. — In the afternoon celebrated 
 Shakespere's birthday by a drive to Fort Myer and Ar- 
 ' lington Cemetery. The road was very good. AVe drove 
 over the long bridge on the military road past the fort, 
 with its comfortable houses, each with a grass plot be- 
 fore the door; and through an archway over the gate en- 
 tered the sacred grounds, which are surrounded by a 
 wall, fast being covered by ivy. The headstones of 
 marble are in regular rows, the grass between them being- 
 kept close shaven, like a beautiful lawn. Conspicuous in 
 the grounds is the sarcophagus where 2,111 unknown 
 soldiers are buried, and a stand for speakers on Decora- 
 tion Day. Ivy decorates every available space. The 
 deep balcony in front of the Arlington House — formerly 
 
32 A wanderer's journal 
 
 the liome of General Lee — is made of bricks. In fact^ 
 it seems like a brick j)l^tform;, witli immense pillars, 
 the circumference of which one of our party estimated 
 at twenty-five feet. The house, in old style, on an emi- 
 nence, giving a view of the Potomac, and Washington 
 on the opposite side. How beautiful the place ! A 
 sloping hillside of green, ornamented with forest trees. 
 We admired exceedingly two cherry trees, one white 
 and one red, covered with double blossoms like small 
 roses. There were beds of lovely hyacinths in bloom in 
 front of the house. I would have liked much to stay 
 there longer; it was such a beautiful place in wdiich to 
 wander or to meditate, among the brave and solemn 
 dead. At intervals there were boards painted black, on 
 which were inscriptions in white, appropriate to the 
 place. General Lee would indeed, I should think, have 
 been sad to leave so beautiful a home. It was wilder 
 then, anc^ it must have been a grand and interesting 
 place. Conservatories are attached to the grounds. 
 
 Easter Sunday, April 25M. — I tried to get into the 
 Church of the Epiphany, but the crowd was so great that 
 I could not enter, so that I remained outside and 
 admired the grey stone walls, covered with vines. It is 
 situated on G street, between 13th and l-tth streets. 
 By the way, in returning, I was almost lost, not l)eing 
 familiar enough with the city to find my way, but meet- 
 ing a young lady who boarded in the same house I was 
 piloted to our house, and found that I had been quite 
 near it all the time. 
 
WASHINGTON 33 
 
 Evening. — I sat quite alone by tlie window, and 
 penned these rhymes : 
 
 On Sunday evening lonely. 
 Church bells, companions only, 
 Are sounding through the air 
 A call, a call to prayer. 
 
 A call, a call to praise ! 
 - Let us clear anthems raise 
 To heaven. God's word imparts ■ 
 A balm to wounded hearts. 
 
 Monday, April lUli. — a.m. Went on the street cars, 
 running down 14th street on F street and Louisiana 
 avenue — the latter ornamented by a statue of Abraham 
 Lincoln — to the Capitol, where we went in the elevator 
 to the basement, to see the model of Captain Eads' ship 
 railway. 
 
 Tioesday, April 27th. — My sister, her husband, son, 
 baby, and nurse, and I, went to Mt. Vernon by boat. 
 We passed the arsenal with its beautiful grounds of 
 lawn and trees, tlie weeping willows bending to meet 
 the waters of the Potomac near the stone wall, meant, I 
 suppose, as a protection to tlie land. The old town of Al- 
 exandria, with its places of historic interest, were pointed 
 out to us, viz., the flag-staff marking the spot where 
 Col. Ellsworth was killed, the spire or tower of the 
 church in which Washington worshipped, the house in 
 which he and Gen. Braddock held their conferences, 
 all dimly seen in the distance ; Fort Washington, an 
 
84 A wanderer's journal 
 
 old stone structure of which I would have liked the 
 sketch ; then Mt Vernon. Part of our little com- 
 pany, I may say all except myself, walked up the steep 
 road to the tomb and house. The stage-coach in which 
 I took a seat was a quaint old yehicle covered in black, 
 with seats each side. The charge was ten cents each 
 way. We stopped at the tomb, which is half way up 
 the hill. It is built of brick, and in a front part of it, 
 defended by an open-work iron grating, rest the remains 
 of George and Martha Washington, each in a sarcopha- 
 gus of white marble, plain, except that of Washington, 
 which is ornamented Avith the United States coat of arms 
 upon a flag. We then went to the house. I cannot do 
 justice to the beauty of the spot in my poor descrip- 
 tion. On an eminence above the Potomac, with the 
 grounds so beautiful and well preserved, that they are 
 full of charm and serene beauty inviting to contempla- 
 tion and repose, stands the old mansion. The piazza in 
 front of the house is paved with flag-stones said to be 
 brought from the Isle of Weight. I could have rested 
 many hours there, so beautiful and restful was the 
 scene. That each State should have the keeping of a 
 room is a pretty and wise thought. Fascinated by the 
 quaintness and charmed by the neatness of each room, 
 I occupied the meagre time allotted for the purpose of 
 looking at the house. My attention was especially 
 attracted to the elegant portrait of Washington on 
 horseback before Yorktown, by Rembrandt Peale, the 
 finest I ever saw. It is in the banquet-room, over two 
 doors of which are also two that are very elegant. The 
 
MOUNT VERNON 35 
 
 mantel of Carrara marble is guarded from ruthless hands 
 by a wire screen. A model of the Bastile stands on a 
 table, and the key is in the entrance hall, lianging on a 
 nail. It is heavy, and I shivered at the thought of all 
 the horrors that had been locked in by its force. The 
 side-board in the dining-room or banquet-room, con- 
 tained small mementos in the form of cushions made of 
 Lady Washington's wedding-dress, and various trifles. 
 In one room was the old piano. Upstairs, the old mirrors, 
 the cabinets, the bureas, the candlesticks, the bedsteads 
 with carved posts, the pretty washstands, all either 
 original or duplicates, were so attractive to me that I 
 would fain have lingered longer, still longer. I looked 
 in at the old kitchen fire-places with their cranes, the old 
 well with its bucket, all silently telling the tale of 
 bygone comfort and grandeur. It would take more 
 than one day for me to explore and enjoy the calm 
 beauty of this delightful old domain, so charming, so 
 revered. Much credit is due to the ladies of the Mount 
 Vernon Association for the perfect order in this place 
 so cherished. 
 
 But the time for departure drew near. The old coach 
 waited. The colored driver whistled his warning call, 
 and ^ve dared not linger. We bade adieu, and buying 
 some curiosities from the grey-headed colored man 
 near the wharf where the boat waited, we went on 
 board, on the return trip, arriving at the city, and by 
 the street cars to our boarding-place in good time, very 
 tired, but glad that we had seen this lovely spot. 
 
36 A wanderer's journal 
 
 ^ Saturday, May 1st, 1886. — I went in a street car to the 
 Center Market, aiul walked tlirongli that extensive phice 
 of merchandise. We bought some lilacs. Wrote to 
 May Roberts, and sent her some flowers, some blossoms 
 of the shi-nb magnolia. 
 
 Sunday, May 2d. — I went with Miss Langdon, a lady 
 boarding here, to the Unitarian Church and heard a 
 fair sermon, and very good singing and reading. -The 
 church is quite a pretty one, the walls outside [being 
 covered with ivy. It stands on tlie corner of Four- 
 teenth and L streets. 
 
 Monday, May od. — Packing, a. 31. In the afternoon 
 we took a delightful drive to Saul's greenhouses and 
 gardens. We found a charming old gentleman, Mr. 
 Saul; and a beautiful spot, with its gentle declivities, a 
 rippling stream, called Piny Branch, lovely trees, large 
 and small and, old and young native trees. We saw a mag- 
 nolia, whose bending branches sheltered many a plant ; 
 a dogwood tree in bloom, and not the least an exten- 
 sive collection of orchids of which those in bloom were 
 elegant and rare in color and form. There wei'e pretty 
 bright-leaved begonias, elegant varieties of caladi- 
 ums and azaleas, eighty acres of land, and a ju-etty 
 dwelling. Receiving some flowers, and a final hand- 
 shake from the owner, we took our leave and drove to 
 the soldiers' home. Again we are charmed with beauti- 
 ful grounds, in which lilacs were in bloom, and one of 
 the most elegant horse-chestnut trees that I ever saw. 
 There were ravines and groups of forest trees, lawns, 
 
BROOKLYN 37 
 
 and grounds under cultivation, smooth roads, and build- 
 ings in perfect order, as seen from the cari'iage. One 
 thicket was white witli the blossom of the dogwood, 
 which grew in lavish })rofusion. There was a statue of 
 Geii. Scott in one part of the grounds, and a cottage in- 
 tended for the President's use ; but Mr. Cleveland does 
 not occupy it. The vista of the Capitol is wonderfully 
 beautiful, seen through the archway of the trees. 
 
 Wedmsday, May oth. — Started for New York via 
 Philadelphia. We had a very pleasant day on the cars, 
 with very little dust, and the country clothed in lovely 
 garb of green leaves, grass, and bloom of fruit trees 
 and dogwood. We passed farms in a fine state of 
 cultivation, and beautiful residences. Some stone 
 houses attracted my admiration. 
 
 Thursday, May 6th. — At the Pierrepont House, 
 Brooklyn, N. Y. Not liking our rooms, we moyed on 
 
 IHday, to the Hotel St. George on Brooklyn 
 Heights, where we took a suite of rooms, consisting 
 of parlor, and three bedrooms, a private hall and bath 
 room. My sister's nurse had a sleeping room on an- 
 other floor. Families live here in Winter. From my 
 room window, I have a view of the yards, tops of houses, 
 church spires, far away, both in New York and Brook- 
 lyn, and a glimpse of the river. Yet I think that I 
 would not be content to live in the heart of a city, un- 
 less surrounded by beautiful grounds. 
 
38 . A wanderer's journal 
 
 Sunday, May Wi. — All clay rain, which enlivens 
 the grass in the yards. 
 
 Sunday, May lOth. — A delightful Spring day mod- 
 erately warm and. bright. I went to Beecher's Church 
 with Miss Hattie Story, and saw about twenty children 
 baptized, 'i'lie singing was beautiful especially the 
 first hymn — one of Bonar's — 
 
 *' Past the waking and the sleeping, 
 Pas! the smiling and the weeping 
 
 I shall be soon; 
 Love, rest and home ! 
 Loi'd, tarry not but come." 
 
 Wednesday , May \Wi. — Took some little walks, and 
 made some calls in the house during those days. There 
 are two large dining-rooms in the hotel, capable, it is 
 said, of seating four hundred guests. The fare is good, 
 and the waiters, who are all white, are respectful and 
 attentive. 
 
 Sunday, May 17tJL — I went again Avith Miss Hattie 
 Story to hear Mr. Beecher and was introduced to him. 
 He is much more gentle than the first time I heard him 
 preacli, twentj'-seven years ago. His discourse was upon 
 the existing evils, anarchy, socialism, communism, 
 the treatment of the Indians, Chinese and Africans. 
 He expressed his belief that the United States were 
 quite capable of dealing with these and all other evils 
 and people who might come to them, He advocated 
 
BROOKLYN 39 
 
 allowing all people, of all lands, to come to this country, 
 and educating them. 
 
 Monday, May Yltli. — P.:Nr. I went with my brother- 
 in-law and his son, over the bridge and returned. 
 
 Tuesday, May 18tJi. — I walked to Fulton street, where 
 I took the street car to Montague street, then got into 
 an omnibus which took us to Miss Hattie Story's board- 
 mg-place, to say good-bye to her and her father, who 
 sailed for Europe to-day. After lunch Mr. Macdonough 
 and his son went to the steamer. They report the sleep- 
 ing accommodations as being so cramped that one 
 shudders at the mention of crossing the ocean. 
 
 Wednesday, May 19th. — Mr. and Mrs. Crosby, Mr. and 
 Mrs. AYarwick and Mrs. Dunkley spent the evening 
 with us and partook of ice cream and strawberries. Mr. 
 Warwick recited for us. 
 
 Friday, If ay 2lst. — My sister, Mrs. Macdonough, her 
 husband and two children, and I drove to Greenwood 
 Cemetery, which is a lovely place at tins season of the 
 year, when the grass is green, and the dogwood and 
 many other trees and shrubs are in full bloom, the lots 
 also being adorned with many plants and flowers. ISTa- 
 ture seems to have fitted it for the purpose, and art has 
 contributed to the decoration of this favored spot, by 
 erecting monuments of various styles to the memory of 
 beloved ones gone before. There is one of a sea-captain 
 designed, it is said, by himself while living. It is a life- 
 size statue of himself in sea-costume, glass in hand, I 
 
4:0 A wanderer's journal 
 
 think it is in grey stone. Those that were the most 
 l)leiising to me, were blocks of rough stone on which 
 crosses were cut. We also drove to Prospect Park, an- 
 other beautiful spot kept with great care. The roads 
 were perfection, broad and smooth, with trees on each 
 side. Under the trees, in some places, were lovely wild 
 flowers, as well as cultivated flowers, and shrubs of vari- 
 ous kinds. There is an extensive green where games 
 were being played, a lake and boats for rowing, arbors, 
 and a grand stand where people can sit and enjoy see- 
 ing the passers, on horseback or in carriages, and rest 
 their eyes by looking at the trees and flowers. 
 
 Saturday, May 26fh. — Lunched with Mrs. Warwick 
 on Madison street, and though tired, had quite an 
 agreeable visit. There were Mrs. Macdonough, her 
 baby, Mrs. Crosby and I, Mr. Macdonough and his son 
 Thompson, Mr. Warwick having gone by invitation 
 for a short trip in Mr. Duryea's yacht. We had a most 
 delicious lunch, and were entertained by Mrs. Warwick 
 and her two married daughters in a very genial manner. 
 The house is situated on a very pleasant street, shaded 
 by fine old trees, and with grass plots in front of each 
 house. There is so much wisteria climbing over fences 
 and trellises and fronts of the houses, that one is con- 
 stantly charcaed by the beauty of its long festoons of 
 pur})le bloom. 
 
 We passed Washington and Clinton avenues, ad- 
 mired some roomy old houses surrounded with grounds, 
 and caught glimpses of others in the distance equally 
 
BROOKLYN 41 
 
 attractive. There are so many high houses that it is a 
 rest to look at one of two or even three stories. The 
 open cars are much more pleasant in Summer. 
 
 Sunday, May 23th. — Walked alone to Beecher's 
 Church, and, to mj surprise, being alone, was given a 
 very comfortable seat. The hymns were very politely 
 found for me, and handed to me each time, and I 
 heartily wished that those pew holders might receive 
 the same attention in strange churches. 
 
 Tuesday, May 2bth. — A little cloudy, but in the af- 
 ternoon clearing, with a high wind. I walked to Ful- 
 ton street, and bought some magazines and toy books, 
 and a card for my little niece, Mary May Macdonough. 
 My sister, her husband and son went to Kew York, 
 shopping. 
 
 Wednesday, May 26th. — This being children's day, 
 I walked to Fulton street, to see them parade. 
 There is a custom here of devoting one day in the year 
 to the pleasure of childi-en in different Sunday schools, 
 who meet and march with music and banners, then as- 
 sembling at the different churches, listen to addresses, 
 have singing, and are treated to icecream, coffee, cake 
 and fruit. A small portion of the little company 
 passed the hotel, to the delight of my sister's baby- 
 girl. 
 
 Thursday, May 2Wi. — I took a very short walk, 
 and paid Mrs. Crosby a visit in her pretty roomx. 
 
42 A wanderer's journal 
 
 June 1st. Tuesday. — Started for Detroit, riding over 
 to New York in a carriage, then taking tlie 6 o'clock 
 train, p.m. Arrived at our destination at 3 in the 
 afternoon of Wednesday, June 2d, taking rooms at the 
 Brunswick, wliere we remained until the following 
 Wednesday, June 9th, when we went on board the 
 steamer Mackinac for Cheboygan, reaching that place 
 at about 6 o'clock p.m. on Thursday, June lOtli. 
 
 Wednesday, August 2bth. — Having spent a rather 
 tedious summer in the confusion of house rejoairingand 
 being compelled to go away, that some repairs might 
 be finished in my room, my nephew, Thompson Mac- 
 donough, and I went to Mackinac — he sent over his 
 liorse and buggy. Mr. Macdonough accompanied us 
 on the tug 3Iary. We had quite a" pleasant sail. 
 The weather was warm, and the view, as we approached 
 the island, was very tine. The setting sun, like a ball 
 of red, cast a line of reflection in the water. 
 
 August 2Qth. TImrsday. — We took rooms at the 
 Mission House situated in the southeastern part of the 
 island, overlooking the waters of the lake, and a part of 
 Bois Blank and Round Islands. I spent some of the 
 forenoon on the beach below the house, and we went 
 again in the afternoon to pick up stones and pebbles. 
 
 Friday, August 27th. — a.m. Took a drive around 
 the island stopping at Arch Rock, the British landing, 
 and the annex in the western part, where beautiful cot- 
 tages have been built forming quite desirable summer 
 residences, p.m. — We went again to the beach, near 
 
MACKINAC 43 
 
 the rock called Robertson's Folly — the story is contained 
 in the,Annals of Mackinac. I was saddened during the 
 afternoon by hearing of the sudden death of a beloved 
 uncle, John Culham, at whose house I spent many 
 happy days. 
 
 Sundaij, August 29th. —Fog and light rain except for 
 a short time, which I improved by going down on the 
 beach in the morning, and for a drive in the afternoon. 
 Not being acquainted in the hotel, the time is rather 
 solitary except when driving. 
 
 Monday, August 30th.— We took a long drive by way 
 of the British landing towards Scott's Cave. We saw 
 Ruggles' Pillar, a rock standing near the road with trees 
 growing out of it. We could not, on account of the 
 roads, reach the cave, but my nephew scaled the steep 
 hillside and brought trophies of moss and ferns which I 
 afterward pressed for a memento book. We bought 
 some views in the village, came home to the hotel to din- 
 ner, and in the afternoon went down on the beach to 
 pick up stones. Many pieces of agates have been 
 washed ashore. A cold rain set in about 6 o'clock in 
 the evening, but cleared by 
 
 Augtcst 31st. Tuesday. — We drove to Arch Rock, 
 and I took a rough sketch of it. We climbed the 
 elevation to the left to see the view, Thompson went 
 down to the beach below, to see the Maiden Arch. We 
 then drove past Sugar Loaf Rock, standing like a senti- 
 nel, with ferns and small shrubs growing on its sides 
 and a queer opening called a cave. There was, for^ 
 
44 A wan]>erer's journal 
 
 merly, a fir tree on the top but it was cut clown, in a 
 measure spoiling the curiosity, I think. Tlie ryck in 
 shape is not unlike the old-fashioned sugar loaf. We 
 climbed the high steps at Fort Holmes and, from the 
 height, enjoyed a view of the fort and island and 
 distant water and land. We then drove around by the 
 Annex, came down past the fort, and through the town 
 to the hotel. p.m. — Took a drive, with Thompson, to 
 Arch Kock, on which Thorn ])son stood, while a photo- 
 graph was being taken — 1« Sugar Loaf, where Thomp- 
 son climbed, while I held the horse and sketched. 
 When my nephew was tired of climbing, he gathered 
 hazel nuts and birch bark. The day was very cold and 
 so clear that Round Island and the opjiosite shores 
 loomed up with startling nearness. 
 
 Wednesday, September 1st. — My brother-in-law com- 
 ing for us, we returned to Duncan in Hie City of 
 Alpena, arriving in time for dinner. The weather was 
 so intensely cold, the last night on the island, that I 
 contracted a severe cough. 
 
 September Uli. Saturday. — The weather has been 
 alternately cold and warm. To-day it is warm and 
 raining. This is the anniversary of our dear mother's 
 death, and her tomb is so far away, in Canada, that I 
 cannot decorate it ; all I can do is to send flowers to the 
 church at Cheboygan, where the talented and liberal 
 Mr. Curtis has charge. 
 
 Saturday, September lOtli. — Cool. The day before 
 took a ride on the cable cars to South Park, where in a 
 
CHICAGO ^^ 
 
 phaeton we drove around the heautiful enclosure and 
 through the building where the park horses are kept. 
 The gTOunds, with their miniature hike, beds of flowers, 
 and foliage plants in varied designs, were charming. 
 One bed was designed to represent Jumbo, the famous 
 elephant. Another was arranged in figures to represent 
 the hours, the sun rays falling on each figure at the due 
 time, all planted with foliage plants or flowers. On 
 Saturday we went to Lincoln Park, which, having a 
 frontage on Lake Michigan is quite as attractive, 
 and varied in beauty. There were two seals in their 
 pond of water. Their bark, .to me, resembled that of 
 a dog. Swans were beautifying the lakes. Wild ani- 
 mals, the white polar bear, the brown bear, the griz- 
 zly bear, the wolf, foxes, in separate enclosures supplied 
 by water in trickling streams over rocks and stones, and 
 cages of large birds enlivened one portion of the 
 grounds. 
 
 Tlmrsday, September lUli, 1886.— Started for Chicago 
 from Cheboygan, on the train, by way of the Michigan 
 Central, stopping at Grayling for dinner and at Bay 
 City for supper. After waiting about an hour, took 
 the sleeper at that place, and passing through Saginaw, 
 Lansing, and Jackson, arrived at Chicago on the morn- 
 ing of the 19th. 
 
 Monday, Septemher 20^^/^.— Went with Mrs. Bowers 
 to Marshall Field's dry goods establishment. 
 
 Wed7iesday, Septemher 22^/.— Mrs. Bowers and I went 
 to Gossage's to select samples. We were detained until 
 
46 
 
 evening, when, after a tedious waiting for an omnibus, 
 we at last reached the cars. It seemed quite like an 
 adventure of travel, when we had to sit down on a 
 stone or some lumber by the side pavement, so very 
 tired were we. 
 
 Tliursday, 8eidte'iiiber 23d. — Spent the day with 
 Mrs. Magoffin on Lincoln avenue. We enjoyed chat- 
 ting of her younger days. I was shown some curios- 
 ities in the way of brooches ornamented with hair of 
 different families. It was interesting to notice the 
 variety. A hair chain connected by gold links was 
 quite pretty. Valuable keepsakes also were medals, 
 presented to Miss Magoffin at London, Canada, at Hel- 
 muth College. 
 
 Friday, September 24/7^.— Mrs. Bowers and I went 
 on a street car to Graceland cemetery, which seemed to 
 me one of the beautiful spots of earth. On one or two 
 monuments were cut in the stone the heads and por- 
 traits of those resting beneath. ^ 
 
 Sunday, Septemher lUli. — Miss Shackleton and I 
 went to hear Professor Swing. The discourse was very 
 learned, as are. all of his sermons, but his tone of voice 
 was not as pleasing as that of many whom I have heard. 
 
 Monday, September I'^tli. — Mrs. Bowers, Mr. Macdon- 
 ough and I went to the Exposition, Mr. Bowers joining 
 us in the evening. I enjoyed looking at the paintings, 
 the dry goods, the silverware, the minerals, birds, furs, 
 furniture. Among the precious stones, was one ame- 
 
CHICAGO 
 
 4r 
 
 thyst, dark and especially beautiful. We took supper 
 at the restaurant in the building. 
 
 Tuesday, September 2'^th.— Took a long drive, in com- 
 pany with Mrs. Bowers, Miss Shackleton and Mr. Mac- 
 donough, through the principal streets of Chicago and 
 some of the suburbs, admiring the elegant residences. 
 
 TJiursdmj, September 30/^/^.— Mrs. Bowers and I went 
 shopping, riding in the omnibus to Gossage's and 
 Marshall Field's, two of the largest dry goods houses. 
 
 Saturday, October 2f/.— Mrs. Bowers, Miss Shackleton 
 and I took a trip on the steam cars to a place in the 
 suburbs of Chicago, called Fernwood, where there was 
 an auction sale of lots. On the way home we looked 
 into, the Palmer House and saw from the outside, 
 through the large windows, the famous barber-shop of 
 Chicago, a palace where shaving and hair cutting are 
 done in the midst of luxury and splendor. The room, 
 about a hundred feet long, looked very gay and brilliant 
 by gaslight. 
 
 Sunday, October 3^.— Very tired, but in the evening 
 being rested, Mrs. Bowers and I went to the Congregar 
 tional Church and heard fine singing. The sermon was 
 of medium worth, though I gathered some ideas from 
 the collection of words. The illustration of a child 
 wandering away, being lost, and, after an abandonment 
 for a short time, suddenly climbing the hillside and at 
 the top finding his father's house, though not quite truly 
 carried out, was yet a picture of life. We wander, we 
 
48 A WANDERER^ S JOURNAL 
 
 sorrow, we find joy, we are lost in life's labyrinths, and 
 when we climb the hill and reach the height, there will, 
 we hope, open to our sight a home of eternal joy. The 
 organ was fine and the singing beautiful. 
 
 From Mondaij, October Wi, the week until Satur- 
 day was occupied in finishing the shopping, except one 
 day when we went to the wholesale millinery estab- 
 lishment of D. B. Fish & Co. to see the shaping and 
 sewing of bonnet-shapes up in one of the higher stories. 
 
 Friday, December 24//i. — I went with my nephew to 
 see the market display. There were large quantities of 
 holly for sale. I bought a bunch for fifteen cents, and 
 some mistletoe on the wood. Quantities of flowers 
 were displayed for sale, rosebuds for fifty cents. My 
 nephew, Thompson Macdonoiigh, decorated my room 
 with holly, and in a corner he arranged Mary May's 
 Christmas toys, and hung her stocking ; so that I had 
 the full benefit of Santa Claus' presents through the 
 night, and the joy of seeing the child^s delight and pleas- 
 ure in the morning. 
 
 Saturday, December 2Uh. — Christmas day. Walked 
 a little way, and called to see Madame Fleischman at 
 whose house we boarded last Winter when in Wash- 
 ington. The rest of the day passed quietly. There is 
 to me, always a sadness and loneliness, at this time of 
 the year, now sinse father and mother have gone to 
 heaven. My sister gave me several rosebuds, which 
 were very cheering and acceptable. 
 
WASHINGTON 49 
 
 Sunday, Decemher 2Qt7i.—l went to the Congrega- 
 tional Church on the corner of G and Tenth streets, and 
 heard a good sermon and Christmas music ; the s^me 
 minister, organist, and choir as last Winter. The 
 church was crowded and warm, and having walked 
 quite a distance to the cars, and from the cars to the 
 church, I felt a little faint, and rather frightened on ac- 
 count of being all alone, among strangers; but by fan- 
 ning myself with my handkerchief (I had not thought 
 of a fan) I kept a little air in motion until the service 
 was ended. For a long time after that experience I took 
 a coupe to go to church instead of walking or going by 
 car. 
 
 On Wednesday evening, 29t7i, Mr. and Mrs. Mac- 
 donough, Thompson and I went to see the cyclo- 
 rama of the battle of Manassas. The scenery and bat- 
 tle scenes were marvelous in execution, the horses and 
 men standing out from the canvas like living pictures, 
 while one could fancy that the fire and smoke from the 
 muskets were real. The faces of the wounded and 
 dead, and their positions seemed realities, and told a 
 tale of suffering, that gave rise to the feeling, would 
 that war might cease from the earth ! There were the 
 smiling fields so soon to be watered with blood, the 
 beautiful trees so soon to be broken and blasted by shot 
 and shell, the fiery, spirited horses so soon to be shot 
 down, or to be left riderless, while their gallant masters 
 are to be left dying or dead on the field where war is 
 reaping human life, and gathering in a full harvest. 
 
50 A wanderer's journal 
 
 And Ave are glad that it is over, and hope that such 
 a dread reapei- may not soon come again to our hind. 
 
 On Monday, October 11th, wliicli is the anniversary of 
 father's birth, Miss Shackleton and I started for 
 CheboA'gan, Michigan, by way of the Michigan Central 
 railway, tiking the sleeper at ten o'clock p.m., and arriv- 
 ing at Bay City at 1'^: 55 M. on Tuesday. While wait- 
 ing for the homeward-bound train we partook of a 
 bountiful lunch of cold chicken and grapes, provided 
 by Mrs. Bowers, to which we added a cup of tea from 
 the lunch counter, and were somewhat refreshed. We 
 arrived at Cheboygan on Tuesday evening, October 12th, 
 very tired. 
 
 November I'Sth. — Cold and clear. There was a heavy 
 fall of snow, a week ago, but it has all melted. 
 
 November 2oth. Thursday, — Thanksgiving. Very 
 mild weather and very quiet day. Thompson Macdon- 
 ougli away at the camps. No company, my sister and 
 baby, Mr. Macdonough, and myself, being alone. 
 
 December lUli. — Started from Duncan City, Michigan, 
 on Tuesday, on the Michigan Central, arriving at De- 
 troit at nine o^clock p.m., the same day. Snowing all 
 day. Stopped at the Brunswick, the party consisting of 
 Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, their son Thompson, their 
 little daughter Mary, and nurse, and I. 
 
 December 17th. — AVeather moderately cold with fair 
 sleighing. Yesterday I took a long walk — for me. All 
 are tired. 
 
EN VOYAGE * 51 
 
 December 20^/^.— Started from Detroit, where there is 
 good sleigliing, for Washington, via Wabash railway, 
 taking the sleeper at Auburn, Indiana, where we had to 
 wait at a veiy plain station, for three hours. The night 
 was very dark, and not a light did the village se&nn to 
 have. We passed through a very mountainous part of 
 the country, past tl e Shenandoah valley ; Deer Park, 
 where President Cleveland passed his honeymoon, and 
 Harper's Ferry, memorable as tiie scene of John Brown's 
 cai)ture, where the Shenandoah joins the Potomac 
 River. The reverse curves made by the cars in passing 
 around the mountains caused many to be quite ill. I 
 was among the unfortunate number. One person com- 
 pared the motion to that of a ship at sea. What purple 
 peaks in the distance ! What rocky steeps ! Wliat 
 deep valleys ! What poor cabins ! Many of tliem de- 
 serted, yet these hills and valleys, we are told, are cele- 
 brated for their fertility. We noticed quite a lumbei'ing 
 ])lace, as we looked down from our heights, on the flats 
 below us on tlie banks of a wide flowing stream. There 
 is a quaintness jibout these solitary places, charming to 
 the tourist, but a little inconvenient for habitation. I 
 think, unless extreme wealth could bring comforts from 
 civilized marts and, planting them among these wilds, 
 create a paradise amid these solitudes ; though truly 
 ^' Home, sweet home" is where the household treasures 
 are ; and I suppose that in many of these cabins, poor 
 though they seem, happiness is as often found as in 
 palaces. From other places people come for health, evi- 
 dently ; a magnificent hotel just under the brow 
 
62 
 
 of a hill loomed before us, cool and inviting — an 
 apparent oasis in the wilderness — in a spot known, 
 of conrse, to many of the traveling world, but not to 
 us — Deer Park. I think that President Clevehmd 
 showed his ap[)reciation of beautiful places, wlion lie 
 chose this spot, delightful as it appeared from the car 
 windows, for enjoying the society of liis beautiful bride, 
 away from the whirr and noise, in the refreshing, 
 invigorating air of the mountains. When shown the 
 poor little fort where John Brown was taken, it seemed 
 to nie too small to be held for a moment. One can hardly 
 understand how he could hope to avoid capture. The 
 houses in the portion of the town on the Virginia side, 
 before crossing the bridge, looked like nests perched on 
 the sides of a bluif, overlooking the rivers. Instead of 
 a fortress, there was a small church at the top of a rocky 
 height. Let us think it an emblem of enduring ijeace 
 between the sister States, North and South. As the 
 two rivers here join and flow in one stream, over- 
 looked by a temple to God, so may the heavens look 
 down on these United States of America, made up as 
 they are of many different views, opinions, beliefs, all 
 at last side by side, in one grand whole, resolved to 
 keep together, though differing in minor points — of- 
 varied societies, denominations and families, yet pre- 
 senting a nation bound together by love of a free coun- 
 try blessed by righteousness and abundance. When 
 foreigners come to these shores, they should help to 
 keep the laws, instead of breaking them. May the 
 integrity of our citizens always keep watch that wealth 
 
WASHINGTON 53 
 
 may not be gained by fraud. May honesty of purpose 
 rihe watclfword; and the watch-tower of ruth and 
 honor be ever kept lighted tbroughou ^^\\^^"^''^'f 
 other lands may also see the beauty and bght and be n 
 unity with sentiments that so nobly slnne and protect 
 
 We arrived in Washington at seven o'clock p.m., an 
 very tired, and drove to Willard's Hotel. 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 2d, 1887.-Went alone t«the Metho- 
 dist church and heard a commentary on the book of 
 Ecclesiastes. The minister cited the book as the sohl- 
 oqny of a sel6sh man who had enjoyed all the luxuries of 
 life yet was never content, having found his pleasures 
 all unsatisfactory at the last as compared to the unse - 
 fish life of Christ, who spent his life in doing good to all 
 men ; thus drawing the conclusion that talents used for 
 the benefit of others, was the true way to happiness. 
 
 Monday,. Jan. 3^.-Packed and moved *» 1336 I 
 street, where we have large rooms, but are obliged 
 go next door for meals. 
 
 SaturdayrJan. lo^A.-Have been in this locality 
 nearly two weeks, during which we have had some cold 
 weather, a little snow and rain, then freezing. Yet 
 this morning early we have Spring temperature, the 
 grass in the park across the street being quite green. 
 On Sunday, the 9th, I rode to church and heard^ a tair 
 sermon. The text was "Thy kingdom come. me 
 preacher dwelt on the fact of Christ's kingdom being 
 lowly rather than of high worldly degree. 
 
54 A wanderer's journal 
 
 Sunday, Jan. 16/f^.— Bright Spring day, mild but 
 cloudy. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. btli. — K cold wave succeeding a very 
 warm spell. Very little change in the monotony of 
 daily living. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. Idth. — Bright, clear and cold. I went 
 with Mrs. Ferguson, our landlady, to hear Dr. Newman, 
 who was General Grant's pastor. He preached a ser- 
 mon about the Chinese, four of the Chinese Legation 
 being present. He represented them as superior in 
 many resjjects to other nations, and especially honest. 
 He mentioned firms who had dealt for years with Chi- 
 nese houses of business without losing a dollar, and 
 stated the figures. He gave statistics showing that in 
 California they were in the minority in all houses of ill 
 repute, correction, or hospitals. He justified them in 
 their resentment of European interference, and cited 
 their last act of toleration for all forms of worship, and 
 their protecting missionaries, as a proof of their being 
 brought into the pale of Christianity, as prophesied by 
 Isaiah. 
 
 Feb. lUli. Monday. — St. Valentine's day, a.m. 
 Cold and clear. p.m. — Cloudy. Mr. ^lacdonough 
 went with me to the Aztec fair, where there was a great 
 crush, the colored school being there also, so that it was 
 difficult to see much. Their straw-work, one of the 
 pictures being of the Capitol, was very curious and 
 showed much skill. The silver-work was also very beau- 
 tiful. There were displayed the costumes in bull-fights, 
 
WASHINGTON 55 
 
 old manuscripts, instruments of torture, remnants of 
 the Inquisition, pieces of onyx polished, and workman- 
 ship in stone, and many other curiosities. There were 
 women pounding and kneading the brciid of the coun- 
 try, Mexico. 
 
 Marcli Sth. — Fine, clear and warm, succeeding several 
 days of rain and gloom, the grass in many places being 
 quite green. A few days ago I saw some shrubs in 
 yellow bloom, and the English ivy on the walls is quite 
 glossy. We have had a very dull time here this winter. 
 I have gone to church when I could. I attended a 
 course of lectures by Stoddard. They were made 
 attractive by views of different places and scenes relat- 
 ing to histories of people whose lives and places of resi- 
 dence were thus brought vividly to mind. 
 
 March 9t7i. — Cloudy, ending in rain. News arrived 
 of the death of Henry \yard Beecher on Tuesday, March 
 8th, 9:30 a.m. 
 
 Sunday, March 13th. — Having engaged a coupe, Mr. 
 Macdonough kindly accompanied me to President Cleve- 
 land's church, neither Mrs. Cleveland nor the President, 
 however, being present. It seemed a very old church. 
 There was a small gallery for the organ and choir. The 
 walls are painted in a kind of grey paneling. The 
 seats, however, are very comfortable. The music and 
 singing were very good, the organ having a melodious 
 tone, and the congregational singing very gratifying. 
 My grandmother's favorite hymn, *' All hail the power 
 of Jesus'_name '' was sung, and I much enjoyed hearing it. 
 
56 A wanderer's journal 
 
 Monday, March 14. — Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough 
 and I went to call on Mrs. Boyle and Mrs. Carpenter, 
 two acquaintances from the North, the former from St. 
 Paul, Minnesota, the latter from Rome, New York. 
 
 Tuesday, Marcli loth. — I went to buy and send some 
 books to brother Bird's two little girls, Frankie and 
 Violet. 
 
 Wednesday, March 16ih. — Mrs. Macdonough and I 
 went shopping on Pennsylvania avenue. 
 
 Tliursdayy March Vlth. — Clear and cold, with high 
 wind. Spent a quiet morning in writing, p.m. — Took 
 a Fourteenth street car to New York avenue, where in a 
 book-store I bought a few Easter cards. Tried a little 
 walk, but found that I was not equal to much walking. 
 
 My hirthday. — The day, in some respects has been 
 rather sad, varied, like life, by a few rays of sunshine. 
 Pleasant words are the sun-rays ; a smile and a kindly 
 wish, a daily recognition of the love that should exist 
 between the members of a family by acts of kindness, 
 keep bright the household. I think more of these than 
 of costly gifts. I received a kind letter and a little 
 birthday book from home, from my brother Bird and 
 his wife. We had strawberries and cream for dinner. 
 
 Saturday, March IQth. — Mr. Macdonough kindly 
 accompanied me to the market, where I bought some 
 flowers, among them a small bunch of trailing arbutus, 
 the first of the season. 
 
WASHINGTON St 
 
 Su7ulaij, March 20^/i.— Attended the Garfield Memo- 
 rial church on Vermont avenue, near the corner of In 
 street. It is a very pretty church with arches on the 
 inside. Garfield's pew was pointed out to me. It is 
 situated in the extreme corner of the church to the left 
 of the minister as he faces the congregation. The ser- 
 vice was simple, and sweet, consisting of the organ 
 music with congregational singing. The day was like 
 Spring ; and as I came home, for I was alone, I noticed 
 yellow crocuses in bloom in the ciicle around the statue 
 of General Thomas. 
 
 Wednesday, March 23f/.— To the jeweler's on Pennsy^ 
 vania avenue to look at silver for a wedding present. ^ 
 
 Thursday, March 24^A.— Fine clear day. Again Mr. 
 and Mrs. Macdonough and I went to make a final choice 
 of a present for Miss Hattie Story, who is to be married 
 this month. Mr. Macdonough then kindly accompa- 
 nied me to call on a lady, whom we met at a lecture, in 
 a brick house on New Jersey avenue, opposite the depot 
 of the Baltimore and Ohio railway. The lady. Miss 
 Stayers, had been a school-teacher in Utah and had 
 crossed the Eocky Mountains twice. She spoke of the 
 engineering skill in some parts of the road where the 
 irons had to be driven into the rocks on each side of a 
 deep gorge, and the track built on that foundation 
 between two dangers, the towering rocks above and the 
 deep gulf beneath. She spoke of the women of Utah 
 as being infatuated with polygamy, on account of the 
 glorious future promised them in the companionships of 
 
68 A WANDERERS JOURNAL 
 
 husbands who were supposed to become gods in the 
 next world. She added that they were kept down by 
 fear. 
 
 Friday, March 2bth.—l went to De Sales street to call 
 on Mrs. King, a lady who had been kind to our mother 
 in years gone by. The street is very quiet. The house 
 to which I went, that of Mrs. King's daughter, has 
 vacant ground near it, so grass grown that it forms a 
 lawn without the trouble of keeping. 
 
 Saturday, March 26th.— I went to market alone, 
 bought some flowers, trailing arbutus and hepaticas, 
 and a bunch of laurel branches. I was quite interested 
 in the colored people with their herbs and roots of vari- 
 ous kinds, and wild flowers for sale. They had small 
 charcoal stoves and hovered over them to keep warm, 
 while some of them eat their frugal meals. I came 
 home on a street car, very tired, and arranged the flow- 
 ers around father's aad mother's pictures, giving some 
 of them to my sister's little girl, whose cunning ways 
 amused me. As she came into my room and looked at 
 my floral an-angements, she said, ' ' You're having a 
 grand time, aren't you ?" Then when she spilled some 
 buttons with Avhich she was playing, in reply to 
 my question ''How did you spill them, Mary May?" 
 she said, •' It happened." She is brimming with cun- 
 ning sayings. 
 
 Sunday, March 21t]i.—l went with Mrs. Ferguson to 
 the Wesleyan Chapel, on the corner of Fifth and F 
 
WASHINGTON 60 
 
 streets. The church is built in square style. The seats 
 are arranged one above another ; the walls are painted 
 in dull color of panel painting. Behind the reading- 
 desk there was the effect of light shining from a win- 
 dow, when it was only the painting on the wall. The 
 sermon seemed intended to prove that David was chosen 
 to bring into use a form of worship, wherein every man 
 might stand before the altar, instead of that in which 
 no one but the priest might enter the Holy of Holies, 
 where dwelt the presence of the Most High. Also that 
 David inaugurated preaching and worshiping God by^ 
 singing and music. The speaker also dwelt on the act 
 of coming to church simply as a form and coming to 
 bring the soul into communion with the worship of 
 God. 
 
 Tuesday, March 29/A.— Cold high wind. In the 
 evening I walked to the Universalist church, escorted 
 by Mr. Macdonough, to an entertainment in which 
 scenes were represented by living statuary. There were 
 Maud Muller, Rock of Ages, the Spanish Sisters, the 
 Nun, My Eye and Betty Martin, Woman's Faith, the 
 Talking Well. The cherubs were represented by an 
 imitation of clouds from which shone first, three little 
 white faces, then when encored, three black ones with 
 white teeth showing, and eyes dancing with mirth. A 
 lady sang '' Annie Laurie '' with a fine and tender grace. 
 The sunflower chorus was presented by a number of 
 young and pretty girls, each of whose faces formed the 
 center of a paper representation of a sunflower, and 
 
60 A wanderer's journal 
 
 between all^ on the broad sheet of paper, ran the sup- 
 posed stalk and leaves. This band of human sunflower 
 sph'its, set in this framework, sang in chorus. I think 
 that a good deal was given for the price, twenty-five 
 cents. On the homeward walk, though 1 did not know 
 the name until afterward, I had -the good fortune to see 
 the star Aldebaran near the moon, wdiich shone in a 
 crescent above a bank of clouds. The star will not be 
 seen again for nearly a year after next month. 
 
 Wednesday, March Wtli. — A^ery tired after going on 
 Pennsylvania avenue. Mr. Macdonough has gone to 
 New York to attend the marriage of Miss Hattie Story, 
 his niece, to Mr. Macfarlane, of Toronto, Canada. 
 
 Friday, April 1st. — Snow all day covering the trees 
 with a beautiful robe of white, and creating a fairy pic- 
 ture in the park opposite our boarding-place. 
 
 Sunday, April 3d. — Went with Miss Wood to St. 
 John's church in the afternoon. The Psalms were 
 sung instead of being read. The boy choristers had, I 
 thought, unusually fine voices. There were three large 
 palm branches at the back of the altar. After the ser- 
 vices the palms were distributed piece by piece. Miss 
 Wood asked for a piece, and we divided it. I took 
 mine home, pressed it, and made it into small crosses to 
 give as mementos, keeping one for myself. 
 
 Monday, Ajoril ifh. — I went with my sister and her 
 husband to see a display of flowers at Small's on the 
 
WASHINGTON ^1 
 
 corner of Fourteenth and F streets. It was truly a 
 bower of beauty. The roses were of many colors, and 
 some of them of mammoth proportions. There were 
 elegant varieties of cineraria, snowballs, lilacs, of green- 
 house forcing of course, hydrangeas, stocks,— I can m . 
 imagination inhale their perfume as I write ; and gen- 
 esta, with its bright yellow flowers gracefully droopmg, 
 reminding me of the mustard plant blossom so beauti- 
 fully described in Helen Jackson's story of Eamona, 
 where the Indian girl walks through a thicket ot them 
 to meet the Franciscan father and receive his blessing. 
 We also went to Woodward & Lothrop's dry goods 
 store. My sister and her husband then left me. I 
 thought I could take a car, but alas ! they were all full. 
 I walked and walked, going into shops to rest at mter- 
 Tals and making some purchases, till at last I obtamecl 
 a seat through the politeness of a gentleman; it must 
 be hard for gentlemen coming home from business, 
 tired, to give up their seats and stand. I reached our 
 lodgings very weary. 
 
 Tuesday, April 5^/..-Bright and cool. Visited the 
 Corcoran Art Gallery, in company with a young lady. 
 We enjoyed the pictures very much. One of Bierstadt s. 
 Mount Corcoran, was a view at which it was restful to . 
 look. The water, overshadowed by the trees on the 
 shore, and mirroring both them and the rocks, moun- 
 tains and clouds on one side, while on the other was a 
 pretty beach and shore covered with scarlet flowers, and 
 a bear walking leisurely down to the water. The child 
 
62 
 
 in a boat, Avitli her grandfatlier helping to row, called 
 the " Helping Hand," her face hent down with earnest 
 gaze, and the old man's amused look of admiration at 
 the little garden was quite a stady. We were quite 
 interested in the painting on porcelain in a cabinet, and 
 two beautiful pictures in mosaics. They were about 
 four inches long and two wide. There were heads 
 carved from ivory, of eminent men, ancient and modern 
 medals, and agates, an ancient mirror, portraits and 
 statuarv- One face whose SAveetne^s was a delight, that 
 of a lady in an arm-chair, with cap and shawl, reminded 
 me of mother. The model of the Warwick vase, made 
 from the timbers of the '' ConstUution " frigate, is not 
 very pretty, but I suppose that the beauty consists in its 
 being made from the timbers of the vessel. 
 
 Wednesday, April Gfh. — Walked through the park, 
 tAvo blocks between Fifteenth street and Vermont ave- 
 nue, called Macpherson square, from a statue of the 
 general of that name in the center. He is represented 
 on horseback, field-glass in his hand. The pedestal of 
 the statue is ornamented by forms of cannon-balls, and 
 bears his name and the date of his death at xltlanta. 
 
 Thursday J April U/i. — I went with Mrs. Macdonough 
 to shop a. little and buy Easter cards. We were caught 
 in a light shower and had to walk home on account of 
 the cars being full. 
 
 Good Friday, Ap^ril Sih. — Went with Miss Wood, a 
 lady in the house, in a street car to Mt. Pleasant, 
 
WASHINGTON 68 
 
 When we arrived at the top of the hill, we found that 
 there was no church service, but we were allowed to go 
 in and see the very pretty grey stone church. Back of 
 the altar were the best paintings of the Disciples and 
 Apostles I ever saw. We then took a three-cent car 
 down, then the five-cent car as far as St. Andrew's 
 church, where we enjoyed a very pleasant service and 
 discourse. 
 
 Saturday, April 9th.—^Yent with Miss Eichmond and 
 Mrs. Dr. Mahaffy to the Center market to see the dis- 
 play of Easter flowers. The trailing arbutus was in full 
 bloom, and also the hepatica, the bloodroot, and a 
 pretty flower called '' Quaker lady/' and another purple 
 tiny blossom, the name of which I did not know. I 
 brought them home and arranged some of them in front 
 of father's and mother's pictures. 
 
 AjJril 10th. Easter 8undaij.—T\ie churches, we are 
 told, are gaily decorated with flowers and rich in music 
 and song. Having been called to visit a sick woman, I 
 had not the pleasure of seeing all of this beauty. 
 
 April nth. Mondai/.—Mi\ and Mrs. Macdonough, 
 baby, nurse and I went to see the egg-rolling in the 
 White House grounds. This is, we learn, a custom prac- 
 tised every Monday after Easter. All children are privi- 
 leged on this day to roam over the grounds ; and in the 
 forenoon the President received and shook hands with 
 many of them in the East Eoom. Some were eating 
 lunch; all had colored eggs. There were about two 
 thousand people, including both adults and little peo- 
 
64 A wanderer's journal 
 
 pie. The Iwacintlis, of which there were many beds, 
 were in bloom, and many of the shrubs. 
 
 Tuesday, April IWi. — Spent from 2 o'clock to 4 in 
 company with Miss Stayers, in the Corcoran Art Gallery. 
 Among the bronzes was the reproduction of the monu- 
 ment to Frederick the Second, the Great of Prussia, and 
 the column of the Place Vendome in Paris. The orig- 
 inal of the latter, stated in the description to have been 
 built by Napoleon the First in honor of his German cam- 
 paign of 1805, and modeled after Trajan's column in 
 Kome, was made of 1200 pieces of cannon taken in that 
 campaign, Russian and Austrian. There were so many 
 curiosities in various forms of statues, shields, suits of 
 armor, that it was impossible for me to remember all, or 
 even a few, accurately. The cnrved figures were all 
 exquisite. The head of the veiled nun was a marvel of 
 sculpture. The teai- on the face of the crying boy 
 seemed almost real. There were also statues in niches 
 on the outside of the building. Miss Stayers and I 
 walked through Lafayette Park, looked at the statue of 
 General Jackson on horseback, rested and I called and 
 said good-bye to a lady, Mrs. Carpenter, who wa6 going 
 away, and returned to our boarding place. 
 
 Wednesday, A2ynl IWi. — Cool : a.m. lovely and 
 bright. Went to the Industrial School on G street, 
 P.M. walked a little way on Twenty-first street, to the 
 herdic coach, to Xew York avenue where I took the car 
 to I street, walking half a block. 
 
WASHINGTON 65 
 
 Thursdmj, Ajjril litJi. — Tulip magnolia in full 
 bloom, without green leaves. Pink magnolia opening. 
 Scarlet Pyrus Japonica, and pink and white flowering 
 fruit trees in bloom, in sheltered places, leaf -buds be- 
 ginning to unfold. P.M., we took a long drive in the 
 suburbs of Washington, saw President Cleveland's cot- 
 tage, on a high piece of ground. The country is very 
 hilly, and one is a little timid in riding up and down 
 the steep hills. 
 
 Friday, April 16tJi. — Twenty-two years ago yester- 
 day on Good Friday, Lincoln was assassinated. 
 
 Saturday, April IQtJi. — Went in the Fourteenth 
 street 3ar to New York avenue where took a Pennsylva- 
 nia avenue car to Seventh street, a Seventh street car to a 
 market on I, E and Fifth streets, but found no flowers. 
 It was a very large building. On I, E, and Seventh 
 streets the parks are very pretty ; I saw in one a 
 white honeysuckle in bloom. Taking a Seventh street 
 car, I went to the Central market where I found 
 for sale, trailing arbutus in abundance, shad-tree 
 blossoms and a small purple flower which the colored 
 people call wild lilac — a curious tiny blossom not unlike 
 the snapdragon in shape, the green leaves being round, 
 and in pairs, from which the flower-stem rises ; they 
 say it creeps on the ground. The tiny flower called 
 Quaker Lady, not more than one-quarter of an inch in 
 size, was yet for sale. I also bought some narcissus, its 
 beautiful yellow cups tempting me with their spring 
 hue. 
 
66 A wanderer's journal 
 
 Sunday, April 17th — I went to Doctor Sunderland's 
 church on Four-and-a-half-street. Bested for a while, 
 in the Sunday-school room ; was much pleased with the 
 manner of grouping the classes around the teachers like 
 families. After Sunday-school Miss Stayers, a lady who 
 met me there, induced me to go to the Trinity Episco- 
 pal Church, on account of the music. It seemed to be 
 an old church. The interior was built with arches 
 within arches. I was annoyed a good deal by having 
 lost my purse with car-tickets and collection. Fortu- 
 nately, however. Miss Stayers lent me some money for 
 car fare. On the car I saw an old colored woman who 
 looked as though she might have been at some former 
 time a slave. She wore an old alpaca dress, with bows 
 down the front, a mantle, and a bonnet tied down with 
 an old green veil, evidently garments given by some 
 one. She surveyed with disgust two young men of col- 
 or, dudes, who came in dressed in the height of fashion, 
 with silk hats, canes, and fancy cravats. It was grat- 
 ifying to see a young man, meanwhile, pay the aged 
 woman the same attention of handing her ticket as if 
 she were of high position. In contrast, came in with her 
 father a sweet little girl, all in white, from her pale 
 face to her bonnet and dress. A white lady in years, 
 with quaint curls and black satin dress sat near, chat- 
 ting with a bright southern girl. The day ended in a 
 gentle rain, helping the leaf buds to enfold, and refresh- 
 ing the grass. 
 
 Monday, April ISth. — Cool, all day rain, swelling the 
 leaf-buds. 
 
WASHINGTON 67 
 
 Wednesday, April 20t7i.—v.M. Went to a kind of 
 bazar, called a French market, held at St. Rose's Indus- 
 trial School on Gr street, meeting Miss Stayers there. 
 There was quite a pretty show of flowers, candies, trink- 
 ets, and vegetables arranged in fancy baskets and other 
 devices. Over each booth was a parasol decorated with 
 vines. In one corner was a wheelbarrow full of plants 
 in pots. Great bowls of lemonade were ready for the 
 thirsty who wished to buy. Strawberry plants in pots, 
 asparagus tied with ribbon, strawberries in tiny saucers, 
 small dolls, and other trifles. The fire-places were orna- 
 mented with palms and daisies. A tempting lunch was 
 served in the kitchen, which was spotless in neatness, as 
 also the rest of the house. We were shown the rooms 
 for white sewing, and those for dress-making. Both 
 were pictures of tidiness and industry. In the former 
 the girls sat around one long table. In the latter, each 
 had a small table neatly covered with oil-cloth. The 
 prices in the market were rather high for our dimin- 
 ished purses. We took a little walk after leaving the 
 school, noticing the shrubs in bloom, and some old- 
 fashioned houses, and returned by car to our boarding- 
 places. 
 
 Thursday, April 2lst. — Mrs. Macdonough and her 
 little daughter, Mary May, and I went to G street. 
 What quaint old fashions one sees on the cars ! I saw a 
 an old lady with two long curls hanging in front of her 
 face and bonnet. 
 
 Sunday, Ajjril 24:th.— Went to Dr. Sunderland's 
 
68 A wanderer's journal 
 
 church. Sitting awhile in the Sunday-school, I listened 
 to a few remarks about the life of Jacob. The lesson 
 taken was to avoid the deceit and trickery that he prac- 
 ticed in taking advantage of his brother's hunger, thus 
 obtaining his brother's birthright by fraud — his put- 
 ting on the goat-skin to deceive his father, that he 
 might thus obtain the blessing due to Esau, the first- 
 born. At the end of his life he declared, ''Few and 
 full of evil have the days of the years of my life been." 
 Joseph was cited as an example of goodness, honesty 
 and integrity. The text of the sermon in church was 
 Hebrews, 4th cliapter, 15 th verse. The speaker dwelt 
 upon Christ's humanity in that he was made nearer to 
 us by his birth, lowly and of no repute, his life of temp- 
 tation, sorrow and toil, and his death of suffering. 
 Some fine quotations Avere given, and a legend of a 
 building all of precious stones and gold, destroyed by 
 the deluge. But angels were employed in gathering 
 here a pearl, there a diamond, and in the end the tem- 
 ple would be rebuilt as beautiful as of old. P- M. — Spent 
 about an hour in the park w4th my little niece, Mary 
 May, part of the time sitting, and part of the time walk- 
 ing. There is a beautiful apple-tree in bloom. 
 
 Tuesday, A})ril 26t7i. — Heavy shower in the evening. 
 I went in the afternoon to the Agricultural grounds, 
 which were beautiful with the bloom of tulips, hya- 
 cinths, magnolias, yellow Forsythia in perfect hedges, 
 flowering apples, double and single, and Judas trees ; 
 and musical with the songs of birds. I enjoyed much 
 
CENTRAL NEW YORK 69 
 
 the beauty of the grounds, but was very much fatigued 
 by the walk, and glad to be able to find my way alone. 
 
 Thursday, April 28i^A.~Fine a.m., when I spent a 
 short time in the park and picked from the ground a 
 few flowers of the Judas tree. 
 
 Friday, April 29/A.— Cool and showery, frustrating 
 our intended trip to Mt. Vernon, in company with Mrs. 
 Bunker, Mrs. Dunbar, and Mrs. Washington ; but before 
 going away from Washington we visited the beautiful 
 spot with part of the company, and thoroughly enjoyed 
 
 the day. 
 
 We went to Brooklyn the first week in May, and our 
 stay in that city was rendered uncomfortable by the 
 severe attack of rheumatism which kept me in the house 
 for more than two weeks. We left for home in June, 
 arriving there about the 12th. The summer was passed 
 rather monotonously. 
 
 Having to go to Detroit in October for shopping and 
 dentistry, and wishing on October 22, the return trip, to 
 amuse myself and vary the sameness of the day's ride, 
 I noted the places by the way. The first station from 
 Detroit was Woodward avenue, then Norris, Warren. 
 The face of the country very level until you pass the 
 last mentioned place ; then it is a little rolling. We 
 notice good farms with pretty belts of woodland, and 
 good roads. Next, Utica seems to be quite thickly set- 
 tled. A church and upwards of a hundred houses are 
 seen about half a mile from the station. A lovely 
 stream winds its way, I fancy, through the town and 
 
70 A wanderer's journal 
 
 seems to follow us in various branches as we journey, 
 reminding us of our childhood's rambles and of Tenny- 
 son's 
 
 '^ Men may come, and men may go. 
 But I go on forever." 
 
 Then the country becomes a little more hilly. As we 
 come to Rochester, we notice a bridge of boards fastened 
 by stones across a brook, which is anotlier reminder of 
 early days. A rudely built row-boat speaks of some 
 boy's treasure, enclosed as it is, by a kind of fence. 
 Now we stop at G oodson's, a small stopping 2:)lace near 
 a bridge, and the country is yet more rolling. Now we 
 stop at Lake Orion, a lovely summer visiting-place on 
 the lake of the same name, and surrounded by a beauti- 
 ful farming country. We passed a lakelet about two 
 miles long, and a mile wide, encircled with evergreens, 
 and autumn-tinted trees. Next Oxford, a large, appar- 
 ently thriving place. Behold ! a few miles farther, 
 another gem of a lake in its field and woodland setting. 
 Then Thomas, near which is noticeable a long row of 
 Lombardy poplars. The foliage is now more faded. 
 Along the road we notice many cornfields, brightened 
 by the yellow shining pumpkins yet ungathered. One 
 field charmed me with its many knolls. Metamora is a 
 very large place, shining in the morning sun. The 
 pumpkins are beginning to be gathered in heaps for 
 the feast of Thanksgiving. the farms ! May they 
 always deck the country with beauty ! Tlien Hunter's 
 creek — but where is the creek ? The country here is 
 beautiful, apparently long settled, though some fields 
 
WESTWARD ^^ 
 
 are full of stumps. One field of wheat, on a hillside, 
 was to me a picture of beauty. Lapeer. Now the trees 
 begin to be stripped of their leaves. Now we stop at a 
 place called Carpenter's, much like a lumbering coun- 
 try with its old mill, and buildings like a camp. Not 
 far from the spot is a pond of blue water. Now we see 
 stump fences, and lail fences, and hardwood lands, and 
 corn-stacks, and the loveliest green fields, and behold a 
 saw-mill in the distance, and a town, the houses of 
 which are plainer. Another stream, after which the 
 country, thougli rich in cornfields and orchards is 
 rouo-her. Otter lake begins a wilder section. Another 
 blue lakelet. Now more cultivated. Millington, near 
 which are some charcoal ovens, and quite a settlement 
 of unpainted houses. We pass two stations. Then 
 charcoal ovens, which appear not unlike huge bee- 
 hives in shape. Reese, where there is stave manufactur- 
 ing-Hunger's Bay City-West Bay City. The mo- 
 notony is varied by dinner at the eating-house. Be- 
 tween Bay City and Linwood it is a little wild. A new 
 station ; then houses shingled down the side, as well 
 as on the roof. Pinconning is quite a large place, with 
 stores, a hotel, nice wide streets, and comfortable 
 houses, and sidewalks, with mills near, and a wide 
 stream. Deep river, near a stream ; not many houses. 
 At Sterling there are several stores, a hotel, and quite 
 a scattered settlement. Alger consists of a hotel, a 
 house or two besides the station, and saloons. There are 
 signs of snow. Then a level plain of young pines, lar- 
 ger ones as we advance, succeeded by shrub oak and 
 
^2 A wanderer's journal 
 
 some poplar. Stevens, where there is a large mill. 
 Then woods of all kinds, hardwood, tamarack, and 
 hemlock. Remains of lumber camps with a belt of 
 Norway pines in the distance. At Roscommon we see 
 icicles and snow. At Grayling one can be refreshed by 
 a cup of tea. Frederic, there the snow is deeper. It 
 is now too dark to read the names of the stations. Ar- 
 riving at Cheboygan, we drove home to Duncan City. 
 
 November 22d. — Started from Duncan City, Cheboy- 
 gan Co., Michigan, on the Michigan Central, arriving at 
 Detroit on the same evening after a very enjoyable day 
 on the cars. Beside our own party of Mr. and Mrs. 
 Macdonough, Thompson, their son, and their little 
 daughter, three-year-old Mary May and I, were our 
 nieces Miss Mary May and Miss Catherine Ellen Smith. 
 The latter played for us on her banjo. The young peo- 
 ple were quite enlivening. 
 
 November 24:th. Thanksgiving, Thursday. — A rainy 
 disagreeable day, varied by an unusually good hotel din- 
 ner. Rain for two days. On our way to Albany we 
 stopped at Buffalo, where we did not enjoy our fare. 
 After a short visit to Albany, we started on December 
 5th for Jersey City via the West Shore railroad. We 
 enjoyed the scenery along the road, for we had quite a 
 pretty view of tlie Cats kills, but we did not enjoy the 
 air or the hotel accommodation at Jersey City, being too 
 near to the station. 
 
 December 6th. — We took tickets for the Pennsylvania 
 Central, and had a very pleasant and safe journey. At 
 
WASHINGTON fB 
 
 Philadelphia the daintiest lunch of hot oysters, crack- 
 ers and pickles, put up in paper boxes, was brought in 
 for sale, with tongue and ham sandwiches, some of 
 which we bought and very much enjoyed them. We 
 arrived at Washington at 4 o'clock p.m , and drove to 
 Mrs. Fergusson's, finding all ready to receive us, and a 
 beautiful begonia blooming in my window. 
 
 Christmas, December 26th. — We decorated our rooms 
 with holly, with a piece of mistletoe under which we 
 kissed little Mary May. The day was very peaceful. I 
 caught a severe cold in coming here and have not yet 
 recovered from it. 
 
 Monday, January 2d, 1888. — To-day was celebrated 
 as the 1st. A bright clear day, not very cold. I walked 
 this morning to H street, where I took a car to Lafay- 
 ette Park, through which I walked to Pennsylvania ave- 
 nue, opposite the President's house, there took the car 
 to Fifteenth street and New York avenue, where I 
 exchanged to the Fourteenth street car, in which I rode 
 to K street, then walked from the corner to my boarding- 
 place, about half a block. There is quite a number of 
 magnolia trees in Lafayette Park ; their glossy leaves 
 shine brightly in the sun. There are also several holly 
 trees, but there were no berries on them. The President 
 holds his reception to-day. 
 
 January 11th. — Went to hear the boy pianist, with 
 Mr. Macdonough, Josef Hoffman. His skill is wonder- 
 
T4 A wanderer's journal 
 
 ful for one so young, about eight or ten years old, I 
 understand. 
 
 January iWi. — We have one of those drizzling rains 
 of sleet, rendering slippery the roads, and clothing the 
 trees in icy beauty. 
 
 Jan. 26th. Thursday. — On one night of this week, 
 I saw and heard Emmet, the favorite actor, who sings 
 and dances with so much lightness and grace. To see 
 his handsome dog on the stage, repays one for going, I 
 think. I have heard one opera, " The Child of the 
 Eegiment.'^ I think I hardly realized my expectations 
 never having before heard it. I have been once to the 
 senate, and once to a concert at the barracks. These 
 concerts are given every Monday, and are free to all, the 
 marine band playing some fine pieces. The mess room 
 with its hard benches as seats is the concert-room. 
 
 Sunday, January ^Oth. — With Miss Wood, I attended 
 the Metropolitan church on Four-and-a-half street. 
 Heard Dr. Newman preach upon the different transla- 
 tions of the Bible, a very learned discourse. The state- 
 ment that the bones of Wickliffe were taken up and 
 burned, and the ashes thrown into the river, whence 
 they were conveyed to the sea, was a forcible and poetic 
 illustration of the scattering of the Gospel to all lands, 
 said the speaker. High above the pulpit, is a cross of 
 wood from Mount Olivet, handsomely carved. A lovely 
 bouquet of half-blown buds in a vase, on one side of the 
 altar, refreshed the eyes. Mrs. Logan, the widow of the 
 general, was pointed out to me. She is a lady of deli- 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 To 
 
 cate features and snowy hair. Senators Stanford and 
 Sawyer were in their respective pews. 
 
 llmrsday, Feb. 2d. — I took a coupe, and with Miss 
 Graham, a young lady living in Washington, called on 
 Mrs. Senator Stockbridge at three o'clock p.m. After 
 speaking to Mrs. Stockbridge, and being introduced to 
 the ladies receiving with her, we were asked into the 
 dining-room, where a table was spread with dainties, 
 and in the ^center a china basket of roses. I sipped a 
 little lemonade, and Miss Graham took some coffee. 
 We then bade adieu to our hostess and withdrew, hav- 
 ing occupied but a few moments. The ladies receiving 
 were all in full dress. We then drove to see a friend of 
 Miss Graham. Not finding her at home, we drove to 
 1326 I street, took my niece Mary May, drove to Penn- 
 sylvania avenue, where I left Miss Graham, and re- 
 turned, having had a happy little drive with my little 
 niece, the day being very fine and balmy. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. Uh. — Miss AVood invited me to go again 
 to the Metropolitan church, where I heard a good ser- 
 mon, prayer being the subject of the discourse, p.m. 
 Miss Wood and I attended a temperance meeting at the 
 Congregational church on G and Tenth streets. Tem- 
 perance songs were sung by the Silver Lake Quartette 
 Club, of New York. A feature of one song was, that at 
 the end of each verse the whole assembly was invited to 
 join in singing a verse of some old favorite hymn. The 
 effect to me was particularly pleasing. The addresses 
 were good, though in some instances the language was 
 
76 A wanderer's journal 
 
 not quite studied to suit a fastidious taste, yet it was all 
 intended to favor the cause of freeing the country from 
 the liquor traffic with its enormous abuses. 
 
 Monday, Feb. Qfh. — Our party, consisting of Mrs. 
 Macdonough, my sister, her husband and little daugh- 
 ter, went, in company with Miss Graham and her cousin, 
 Mrs. Marsh, to hear the Marine band at the barracks. 
 As the concerts are given in the forenoon, we had to 
 occupy almost the whole day and take a lunch by the 
 way at a candy store. 
 
 Feb. \-^th Shrove Tuesday. — Miss Wood and I went 
 to the botanical gardens, where we admired the ferns, 
 but found not many plants in bloom. The day was 
 warm, snow melting, streets muddy. 
 
 Feb. loth. Ash Wednesday . — Cold and clear. I quite 
 enjoyed the day in a solitary way, going to St. John's 
 church in the morning. 
 
 Feb. 16th. Thursday. — Miss Stayers and I went to 
 the National Museum, and looked at the magnificent 
 memorials presented to Gen. Grant, and which I am 
 incapable of describing. 
 
 Friday, Feb. 11th. — Saw at the Botanical gardens a 
 banana blossom. It was four to five inches long and 
 purplish pink in color. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 19th. — Heard a fair sermon at the Pres- 
 byterian church, Four-and-one-half street. Neither the 
 President nor his wife was there. The discourse was a 
 
WASHINGTON 77 
 
 comparison of the spiritual sower and reaper to the 
 busy farmer constantly attending to his duties, the one 
 sowing and reaping the heavenly grain, in Christian 
 work, the other unceasing, except in sickness, in his 
 attention to his temporal advancement. May I not 
 ever enter a sanctuary where is admitted a hope that, 
 out of the chaos of sin may be created, one day, a king- 
 dom wherein only righteousness may reign, wherein all sin 
 may be washed away from our world, and never a groan 
 as from those eternally condemned may be heard, because 
 no place of torment can exist. 
 
 Wednesday^ Feb. 22d. — Washington's birthday. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Macdonough and their little daughter, and I 
 took a drive, calling on Mrs. Boyle on 1510 P street. 
 Found her very pleasantly situated in a lovely house. 
 She is from St. Paul, Minnesota, and living in Washing- 
 ton for her health. The day was beautiful, and we very 
 much enjoyed the drive. 
 
 Thursday, Feb. 23d. Miss Stayers and I spent the 
 day, at the National Museum. We could not half see 
 all the beauties of the collection ; yet it was a rich treat, 
 full of interest and information. We did not enjoy the 
 lunch that we took there. There were different kinds of 
 fish, with all the apparatus for catching them, from, the 
 tiniest hook to the harpoon, and gun nets and baskets ; 
 fabrics, machinery, medicines, chemical apparatus, spec- 
 imens of marbles, and mineral curiosities of nations ; 
 memorials of Washington, Grant, and many heroes of 
 
78 A wanderer's journal 
 
 history. We came away, I feeling that I had had only 
 a taste of valuable instruction. 
 
 Saturday, Feb. 2btli. — I took a car to Pemnsylvania 
 avenue to call on Mrs. Carpenter at the National Ho- 
 tel. 
 
 Sunday, Feb. 2QtJi. — Hoping to find the Reformed 
 Episcopal church, I took a Fourteenth street car to 
 Fifteenth street, where I got in a herdic in which I rode 
 up Sixteenth street. As I could not find the church 
 for which I was looking, I went into St. Luke's church 
 on Fifteenth street, where I heard , quite a talented ser- 
 mon, on the right cultivation of conscience. The col- 
 ored preacher very generously assumed that many 
 slaveholders knew not that slavery was wrong, until 
 shown the evil of it, when some of them took the bonds- 
 men to free States. That as many years ago, drunken- 
 ness was not considered as stamped with the disgrace 
 that now accompanies it, so conscience might yet be ed- 
 ucated to look upon war as also dishonorable. 
 
 Tuesday, Feb. 2Sth. — Miss Perry and I went to the 
 Botanical gardens, thence to see Professor Neuman's 
 exhibit of silk culture, which was exceedingly interest- 
 ing. There were the butterflies, the eggs, the cocoons 
 on branches of the mulberry and silk in various stages 
 of manufacture. The cocoons on the wild coffee-tree 
 were quite a novelty to us. They were of a greyish col- 
 or, and the silk produced from them was a kind of light 
 brown. We were also shown the mode of unwinding 
 the silk from the cocoons. Putting them in hot water^ 
 
WASHINGTON 79 
 
 the professor first teazed them with a bunch of twigs. 
 Then taking a few threads, he fastened the end to the 
 machine, and turning it, wound them into a skein of 
 lovely fine thread. He gave to each of us a box of co- 
 coons. There was also present a lady from Virginia 
 who, I think, was intending to employ herself in the 
 cultivation of the silk-worm . 
 
 Wednesday, Feb. 29fh. — Was out twice, once in the 
 forenoon and once in the afternoon. 
 
 Tliursdaij, March 1st. — Took a herdic cab to the 
 Smithsonian, where I met Miss Stayers, We saw a fine 
 collection of birds of all kinds, parrots, owls, eagles, 
 pelicans, swans — black and white, pheasants, humming- 
 birds, orioles, woodpeckers, ostriches. We walked over 
 to the National Museum, a short distance. I then took 
 a herdic for home. Miss Stayers going home to First 
 street, N. W. 
 
 Saturday, March M, — Went to the Palais Royal, a 
 large store, to inquire for my umbrella which I had left 
 there, p. m. — Miss Perry, a lady from New York, and 
 I attended a lecture on chemical analysis by Professor 
 Clark at the National Museum. It was very interest- 
 ing, though I could not understand all. These free 
 lectures are some of the privileges of Washington. 
 
 Sunday, March Uh. — Attended the First Congrega- 
 tional church on G and Tenth streets, heard a very 
 good sermon, and as a free invitation was given to the 
 communion, I partook of it as offered, and was much 
 
80 A wanderer's journal 
 
 benefited by the simple service. The speaker quoted 
 that portion of the New Testament wherein Christ is 
 mentioned as enduring his sufferings for the sake of the 
 ^' joy set before him." *' Thus we endure our trials the 
 more patiently on account of the hope beyond this life," 
 was the burden of the sermon. 
 
 Tuesday , March 6th. — Went to G street and from 
 there to a book store, partly by car, partly by her die. 
 
 Wednesday, March 7th. — Called on Miss Graham and 
 meeting Mrs. Graham in the herdic, I went to St. 
 John's church Avith her. 
 
 Thursday, March 8th. — In the evening enjoyed a 
 Shakesperian pageant given by some society ladies in 
 aid of the JN"ational Homeopathic Hospital. Shakespere 
 was represented as presenting scenes from his plays 
 before the court of Queen Elizabeth who sat on her 
 throne with courtiers in attendance. The dresses and 
 jewels, the latter evidently owned by the ladies who took 
 part in the scene, were elegant and the pantomime of 
 superior merit. 
 
 Friday, March 9th. — In the evening, in company with 
 Miss Perry, attended a lecture at the National Museum, 
 '^ The Microscope in Geology." We very much enjoyed 
 it. The views of the rocks were very fine, especially 
 when the polarized light was thrown upon them, bring- 
 ing out all of the beautiful colors. Driving home, we 
 admired the Washington Monument, shining white 
 
WASHINGTON 8l 
 
 through the darkness, and the sky brilliantly lighted 
 with stars. 
 
 Saturday, March 10th. — I went to market in the fore- 
 noon and bought some flowers, but could not get any 
 wild ones, as the weather has been too cold for them to 
 bloom. P.M. — Accompanied Miss Wood to the Grand 
 Army Fair. The inajority of the booths were covered, 
 but we went to the Art Eooms where were displayed 
 many paintings, specimens of needlework, and many 
 curiosities. 
 
 Monday, Mai'ch 12th, and Tuesday, March 13th. — A 
 terribly high wind, blowing down trees and branches of 
 trees, cutting off communication by telephone in the city 
 and the fire alarms, and during several days cutting off 
 all news from the world outside of Washington. The 
 storm, in full terror of destruction, has swept the whole 
 country, mercilessly destroying property and many lives, 
 as afterward reported. It was said that people died 
 from exposure to cold, and the fierceness of the ele- 
 ments. Boston was isolated, the only way of hearing 
 from that city having been by cable to a place on the 
 coast of Maine, thence to England and return. 
 
 Thursday, March Ibth. — Some communication estab- 
 lished. 
 
 Friday, March 16th. — Air oppressively warm. 
 
 Saturday, Mirch 11th. — My birthday, a.m. — Went 
 shopping. P.M. — Took "a herdic cab, and drove with 
 Miss Wood to the National Museum, where, after look- 
 
82 
 
 ing at a family of buffalo stuffed and mounted, from a 
 young one about a year in age, to one in maturity. 
 There were six of them, beautifully mounted on a piece 
 of ground, in which were their tracks, and here and 
 there some sage-brush, and matted grass, and a pool of 
 water. ^'^ This,'' said a lady whom we met, and who 
 was familiar with that country, ^^is a piece of Montana." 
 We also noticed a case of stuffed ourang outang, most 
 hideous in their resemblance to humanity, climbing 
 trees, one of them savagely biting his companion's 
 hand. A case of prairie-dogs claimed our attention, 
 with a small owl on the edge of their burrowing-place, 
 and with which they are said to live in harmony. A 
 case of opossums, one curled up very naturally in the 
 nest. Armadillos, kangaroos, in variety from fawn color 
 to grey, in their curious half standing, half leaping posi- 
 tions. A family of seals, from the cunning baby curled 
 up on a rock like a puppy, to the large ones, parents of 
 the whole, I supposed. A small elephant, tigers and 
 bears. The polar bear was a very large specimen of 
 yellowish white color. AYe went to the lecture-room to 
 hear a professor speak about the origin of names. The 
 lecturer traced some of the various names to the fact of 
 designating a man, thus AYilliam, son of John, from 
 being constantly repeated became changed to William, 
 John's son, then to William Johnson. Others were 
 named from the places where they lived, or the countries 
 from which they came. About the fourteenth century 
 the surnames thus attached became hereditary. If a 
 man lived near a wood, from being called James at the 
 
WASHINGTON 83 
 
 wood, the name was gradually changed by omission of 
 words or letters to James Atwood. Again, names were 
 derived from the occupation in which men were 
 engaged, or from some feat of strength or valor, as, 
 when a Scotchman helped his fallen king into the sad- 
 dle, the king being clad in a full suit of armor, he was 
 named Armsti'ong. Names also were taken from ani- 
 mals, birds and flowers, and even the sky lent aid to the 
 naming of our race. In conclusion, the speaker gave a 
 selection from some wise writer, noting that the high 
 were descended from the low and the low from the hidi. 
 
 Sunday, March IStJi. — Miss Stayers and I went to 
 the Presbyterian church in Four-and-a-half street. Dr. 
 Sunderland preached from a text in Job vii : 17, 18, 
 dwelling upon the many trials, the lesser being of near- 
 ly as much annoyance as the greater, and we need to 
 be prepared and strengthened for all. 
 
 Thursday, March 22d. — Cooler. Cloudy with a few 
 flakes of snow. Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, Mary May 
 and I were on Pennsylvania avenue and F street in the 
 morning ; and though we took the cars, there was much 
 unavoidable walking, and I was compelled to rest all of 
 the afternoon. In the evening a lady, Miss Wood, asked 
 me to go to a Woman's Temperance meeting at the 
 Foundry Methodist church. On the platform were Miss 
 Francis Willard, Mrs. La Fetra, Mrs. Hannah Whitall 
 Smith, Miss Jennie Smith, and Mrs. Cleghorn Hoffman 
 from Missouri, who gave a long address, favoring and 
 urging prohibition, as the only dyke against the inroads 
 
$4 
 
 of the ocean of drink which was breaking up homes, as 
 the sea destroyed all the houses in the Netherlands be- 
 fore a sea-wall was built against the encroaching waves. 
 " As/^ said the lecturer, ^^ objections on all sides" — she 
 stated eacli kind of opposition — ^^vere made to that pro- 
 tection, so, now, opposition to prohibition was met. 
 As the dykes were finally built and carefully watched, 
 so, would eventually their cause succeed. She compared 
 high license to the indulgences of the Roman Catholic 
 Church. For as the church could not keep her people 
 from sinning, she sent Tetzel with these indulgences 
 through Germany, and with the money received for 
 them, built cathedrals. So the government made the 
 people pay for liquor, in the shape of license. She 
 claimed that Maine gave 47,000 for prohibition majority, 
 and that their cause was progressing." She ended the 
 lecture, with a quotation from Whitaker. Many of her 
 quotations were also from the Bible. Miss Catherine 
 Willard, who had just returned from Germany, where 
 she lu.d been educated, sang twice. One lady read 
 from the Bible, and prayed. There was also singing of 
 hymns. Mrs. Cleghorn also stigmatized the Christian 
 nations as the senders of rum to the heathen, and con 
 demned the liquor monopoly. There were addresses by 
 others. Miss Kate Willard was, I thought, quite pret- 
 ty. In going to my rooms I found the evening bitterly 
 cold. 
 
 Friday, March 23f/. — Intensely cold] and bright, with 
 high winds. Reports of terrible storms in Minnesota, 
 
WASHINGTON ^^ 
 
 Wisconsin, Iowa, Michigan, come to us. Railroads 
 blockaded. Went with Miss Perry to the Fish Com- 
 mission, was much interested in seeing the hatching pro- 
 cess. Great glass jars were full of spawn, a tube con- 
 veying fresh water into the jars. Through another tube 
 the tiny morsels of fish swarm into a tank. So quickly 
 did they ascend the tube, that a flash, as of light, was 
 only seen, and they passed to the larger tank. There 
 were some curious many-finned fish of gold and silver 
 color, brook trout from Michigan, California rainbow 
 trout, Michigan grayling, and many other kinds. 
 Thompson Macdonough having joined us we went to 
 see the animals behind the Smithsonian. There were 
 foxes, an opossum, a cinnamon bear, a jaguar, an ele- 
 gant animal with velvety skin, spotted brown and yel- 
 low, prairie dogs, prairie chickens, quail and several 
 other kinds of birds, a gray squirrel and a few more an- 
 imals. It was so cold that the yellow crocuses that 
 brightened all the parks drooped their heads. 
 
 Saturday, Marcli 24tJi.—l went to the National 
 Museum, where, after looking at some of the curiosities, 
 among others the wonderful and beautiful feather cloak 
 or war-cape of the kings from tlie Hawaiian Islands, tlie 
 mummies, the chamber tomb from Italy, and other 
 curiosities, I listened to a lecture on Assyriology, or the 
 excavations in Nineveh and Babylon. The lecturer 
 was very enthusiastic, but as he spoke in broken Eng- 
 lish, it was rather difficult to follow his reading. 
 
 Sunday, Marcli 25^^/^ — Miss Perry and I went to hear 
 
86 
 
 Mrs. Livermore speak in the Universalist church. Her 
 discourse was of much benefit to me, leading her hear- 
 ers, as was its tendency, onward, onward and upward, 
 in thought, in aspiration toward a higher life, and ten- 
 derly dwelling on all the duties and affections of this. 
 
 Good Friday, March 30th. — I took a car to Lafayette 
 park, where I sat down or walked around and picked up 
 some magnolia leaves, while I breathed the perfume of 
 the grass and enjoyed the sunshine. Then I attended 
 the services in St. John's church after which I rode in 
 a car to Small's flower show, which I truly enjoyed. 
 There was a perfect, bower of beauty and fragrance, a 
 draping of orange branches and fruit over the door, a 
 window full of lilies, roses and orchids, a center of roses, 
 carnations, and many other flowers, and a mirror 
 banked around with white spiraea. I saw the ranunculus 
 in different varieties for the first time. There were 
 cinerarias, daisies, lilies of the valley, and oh ! such a 
 mass of loveliness that one would fain have rested there 
 for an unlimited time, in tranquil enjoyment. 
 
 Saturday, 3farch 31st. — Very warm. Miss Perry, 
 her friend Mrs. Kichardson, and I went to the Woman's 
 Convention which had occupied all of the past week. 
 We had to climb to the gallery. We heard Susan B. 
 Anthony, Mrs. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, who spoke quite 
 distinctly, and Mrs. Lucy Stone, whom I could hardly 
 hear, though her manner was pleasing, and who looked 
 very matronly in her cap. Her husband gave an ad- 
 mirable address in polished speech and tones. Fred 
 
WASHINGTON 87 
 
 Douglas, the colored orator, made a stirring address, 
 referring also to the time when he was dragged thirteen 
 miles to be sold as a slave. John Hutchinson sang with 
 much spirit. The stage was fully occupied by the pio- 
 neers, women, in the cause of woman's suffrage, and the 
 audience was very large. We came away before the 
 conclusion of the meeting, as our time was limited. 
 
 Faster Sunday, April 1st. — Fine and warm. I ac- 
 cepted Miss Wood's invitation to go to the Metro- 
 politan church, where I heard a good sermon by Dr. 
 John jSFewman. His text was ''We have seen the 
 Lord." He spoke of the advantages that had followed 
 the Christian religion. As an illustration, also, of our 
 friends waiting for us in heaven, he spoke of meeting 
 on his travels in India, a merchant, who was going 
 home to meet his family, after a long absence, on ac- 
 count of ill health. As they neared the shore, a group 
 consisting of wife, children, and servants were seen, all 
 robed in white, ready to meet the husband, father, 
 master. The mansion on the hill, the sloping lawn, 
 the glad embraces and greetings were pictured with 
 vivid clearness. The Christ on the cross, placed where 
 all could see, as from different roads people came, 
 brought the scene before the imagination as it was de- 
 scribed. The blood and water from the pierced side of 
 Jesus was explained by the fact that around the heart 
 is a sac or pericardium. When a person is frenzied 
 with grief or agony it is said that water forms in this 
 sac. Hence when pierced, flowed the water and blood. 
 
88 
 
 The platform was adorned with flowers. There was a 
 cross of calla bk:)ssoms, besides man}^ other beautiful 
 flowers, and verses of familiar hymns were sung between 
 the pauses of the communion. 
 
 Wednesday , April itli . — Avery fine day. We have 
 had the first wild flowers. 
 
 TJiursday, A])ril 5th. — Rainy and warm, so that the 
 trees are budding, especially the flower buds of the 
 white magnolia in Franklin Square Park, as also the 
 Judas-tree. The yellow Forsyihia is in bloom. 
 
 Friday, AjJril 6th. — Went to- see the cyclorama of 
 the battle of Shiloh, the day being the anniversary of 
 that fight. The lecturer was General Prentiss, who was 
 present at the terrible encounter, and there surrendered 
 after hard and bloody fighting of his troops. The 
 Union forces on that day, twenty-six years ago, were 
 hemmed in right and left by the Confederate Army. 
 The field on which General Albert Sidney Johnson was 
 killed was shown on the canvas. The soldiers' forms, 
 taken from photographs, were lifelike in appearance. 
 Tlie blue distances of sky and water and woods, and the 
 Tennessee river were represented true to nature, and 
 the whole gave a perfect idea of a battlefield. 
 
 Sunday, April 8th. — Walked to the Unitarian 
 church to hear Robert Collyer. The house was crowded. 
 After standing awhile, I was given a seat near the door. 
 The discourse was, *'The observance of Lent." The 
 speaker did not approve of the custom. He thought 
 
ALEXANDRIA 89 
 
 tliat Lent should be a self-denial and a practice of all 
 of the virtues all our life, instead of at one season. 
 
 Wednesday, April 11/^/^.— Clear and cool. Went 
 to G street, and while waiting for the herdic at Lafayette 
 Park picked up some magnolia leaves. 
 
 Friday, April Vdth. — Cool and clear. After going to 
 the shoemaker's I took a trip on the cars on New York 
 avenue out to H street. 
 
 Saturday, April 14^/i.— Rode in a street car to the 
 market, bought some wild flowers and shopj^ed a 
 little. This day is the anniversary of Lincoln's assassina- 
 tion, also of father's landing from Liverpool in New 
 York after a short trip to England and Scotland. 
 
 Sunday, April 15?f/i.— Miss Perry and I went by street 
 car to the station, where we went by rail car to Alexan- 
 dria, where we arrived early enough to take a carriage, 
 rather old and dilapidated, with an obliging colored boy 
 driver, who for a very reasonable sum took us first to 
 the Braddock house, where Washington and Braddock 
 held their conferences, on the way showing us the steps 
 where Colonel Ellsworth was shot. The landlord of the 
 Braddock house very politely showed us the room in 
 which the two distinguished men met. ''It remains," 
 he said, ''exactly as then," with its thick walls four 
 feet thick, painted in blue panels, low, deep-silled win- 
 dows and a fire-place. The room is square in form. 
 We were then shown the steps at the back of the house, 
 facing the Potomac, and the small plot of ground in 
 
90 A wanderer's journal 
 
 which are several trees, which are overgrown with 
 weeds and wild violets, of the latter of which we picked 
 a few. Tiie balcony is covered with wisteria, the stalk 
 of which is five or six inches thick. We were told that 
 in the time of Washington the river was nearer the 
 house, with no obstructions between them, so that the 
 view must have been very fine from the balcony above. 
 Our attention was also drawn to the staircase of the 
 hall, the top being of solid mahogany. Before the 
 hotel was built in front, were grounds extending to the 
 street. Now all that there are left at the foot of the steps 
 are two small flower beds, one of lilies of the valley. 
 We then drove to Christ church, where Washington 
 worshipped and of which it is said he was vestryman. It 
 seems to be a solid brick building. The pews have high 
 backs, and are of panelled wood. The pulpit is of the 
 old style, high and lofty. The railing of the organ loft 
 is rounded like a bow. The singing w^as very enjoyable, 
 and the service tolerable. After the service we went 
 into the vestry, a very small room, and saw the table 
 used for communion in those early days. It seemed 
 about two feet and a half long and a foot wide. We 
 also sat in Washington's pew and in the one formerly 
 used by General Robert E. Lee, the former large and 
 square, the latter of ordinary length. On the wall 
 each side of the pulpit were two marble slabs, one 
 in memory of Washington and one in memory of Lee. 
 We walked through the church-yard, the grass of which 
 was kept close-shaven, noting the different tombstones 
 and their odd and quaint inscriptions. Some of the 
 
WASHINGTON 91 
 
 stoties were long and flat in a horizontal position. On 
 one of them was inscribed the position of the lady- 
 lying beneath it. We walked to the station, where we 
 sat awhile and partook of a light luncheon which we 
 brought with us, then took a carriage, price fifty cents, 
 and rode to the Union soldiers' cemetery, remained 
 awhile in solemn meditation, noting the beautifully kept 
 graves, of which there were 3,750 known and 103 
 unknown. One of the inscriptions to the brave and 
 memorized dead we noted: 
 
 '^On fame's eternal camping ground. 
 Their silent tents are spread 
 Wnile glory marks with solemn round 
 The bivouac of the dead." 
 
 We started for Washington, by the same route, arriv- 
 ing ill time for diuuer at 2:30 o'c lock p.m. 
 
 We felt fully repaid for our trip in the remembered 
 enjoyment. 
 
 We kept and pressed the violets, as a reminder of one 
 of the most agreeable jaunts we had taken, combining 
 devotion aud real pleasure. 
 
 Tuesday, A^jril 17//^.— Miss Stayers and I went to the 
 Signal Service, street department, and I waited in 
 a lower room, while Miss Stayers went np to the room 
 where the instruments are. AVe then walked over to 
 the State, War and Navy building, where we were prin- 
 cipally interested in looking at the pictures of Greely's 
 Arctic expedition, which brought those northern scenes 
 vividly before the eye. 
 
92 A wanderer's journal 
 
 Wednesday , Api'il ISfJi. — Miss Stayers and I took a 
 ride around the city, in a brown car, stopped at the 
 Agricultural grounds, sent home some seeds — they are 
 sent free for the asking — asked for a bunch of magnolia 
 blossoms which weie generously given, walked over to 
 the monument, picked up some pieces of marble, and 
 went to our boarding places. I was very tired. 
 
 Friday, April 20tJi. — Miss Stayers amd I went to 
 Georgetown by the street cars. On arriving there, we 
 walked quite a little way on Thirty-sixth street, rested 
 a little on the stones, and gazed on the river and oppo- 
 site shore. We saw Mrs. Southworth^s cottage, a 
 rather old brown wooden building with a Gothic point, a 
 veranda, and on two sides of it a garden, with shrubbery 
 in bloom, ])rincii)ally flowering currant. The gardens of 
 the place seemed to be full of wild violets. We looked 
 through the fence of one charming old-fashioned phice, 
 with an arbor overlooking the river, and dug up some 
 violets that grew outside of the wall. W^e sat quite a 
 while on some stones, in a vacant lot, enjoying the view 
 of the river and the new bridge across the Potomac. 
 We called at Prospect Cottage, but the nuthoress, 
 owner of the house, was away in New York. A pretty 
 dark-eyed young girl answered our questions. We then 
 returned home, enjoying the views of pretty gardens 
 full of blooming hyacinths, tulips, and fruit-trees. In 
 passing over P street bridge, over Rock creek, we looked 
 away down on houses and gardens beneath us. In al- 
 most all of the latter, there were peach trees full of pink 
 bloom. 
 
WASHINGTON 93 
 
 Saturday, April 21st. — p.m. Miss Stayers and I went 
 to Albaugh's theatre to a matinee. The play was 
 *' Much Ado About Nothing," in which Modjeska was 
 the principal actress. She is a graceful woman, and 
 dressed beautifully. 
 
 Sunday, April 22f/.— Miss Wood and I went to Christ 
 church, said to be the oldest church in AYashington, 
 built, we were told, in Jackson's time. It is very 
 plain, with no gallery, and pews with doors. 
 
 Monday, April 236?.— Cool. Miss Stayers and I went 
 by way of the Fourteenth street cars, changing for the 
 Pennsylvania avenue cars, at the capitol, thence to the 
 navy yard, then taking the Anacosta car east, across 
 the Anacosta bridge. We walked a little Avay up the 
 hill, then rested on some steps, admiring the scenery, 
 the yards and fields gay with the bloom of fruit-trees. 
 While sitting there an aged colored woman came, and 
 also sat down to rest. She had been gathering chips, 
 to make a fire for herself in her small room among the 
 hills. She had been discharged from a hos])ital and 
 was a perfect example of gratitude, for she told of the 
 good care taken of her in the hospital, of people's kind- 
 ness to her, of the goodness of God in providing a 
 shelter for her, though it seemed that the small room 
 had to be shared with others. 
 
 Tuesday, April 24if/i^— Rode to the market in a street 
 cur and bought some wild flowers to send home, keeping 
 some of them, however, to place around the photo- 
 graphs of father and mother. 
 
94 
 
 Thursday f April 26th. — Warmer, fair, called on Mrs. 
 Boyle. 
 
 Sunday y Ajjril 29th. — Miss Wood and I went to Four- 
 and-a-half street Presbyterian church. The day was 
 very warm. In the evening Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, 
 Mary May and I walked over to the park. The flower- 
 ing apple and cheriy are in full bloom, and also the 
 Judas tree. 
 
 Monday, A2)ril SOi^A. — The hottest day of the season. 
 We suffered day and night from the heat. a.m. I went 
 to F street for a short time. 
 
 May 1st. Tuesday. — Showery, and the leaves are 
 completely unfolded. 
 
 Sunday, May 6th. — The day was very warm, so that 
 we spent part of the day sitting under the trees in 
 Franklin Square Park. The cotton from the cotton- 
 wood trees covered the grass with white flakes that 
 looked like snow. We rolled some of it into balls to 
 take home as curiosities of the place. The trees were all 
 in full leaf and many of them in full bloom, and we 
 truly enjoyed their beauty. 
 
 3fay Sth. Tuesday. — We started from Washington, 
 and after a pleasant day's journey arrived in Jersey 
 City about 4 o'clock, and crossed over by ferry to 
 Brooklyn in time for a six o'clock dinner. 
 
 Friday, May ISth. — Damp, ending in rain. Yesttr- 
 day Thompson Macdonough and I took a ride in the 
 
BROOKLYN 96 
 
 street car to Prospect Park, and enjoyed the trees, the 
 grass, and looking at some wild geese and guinea fowl, 
 and some deer in the enclosure. To-day we took the 
 Green and Gates car to Ridgewood, which is not a very 
 pleasant place. There are there the baseball grounds, a 
 cemetery, some saloons and car stables. Queer combi- 
 nations, or rather proximities ! We returned home by 
 the Myrtle avenue cars to Fulton street and Clark 
 street. What a varied prospect the route presented ! 
 Now an avenue of beautiful mansions surrounded by 
 lawns, trees and flowers, then lowly houses of one or 
 two stories with their own kind of a garden or none, 
 mere tenement houses, shops of all kinds, and elegant 
 stores. In a harness shop was displayed a statue of a 
 horse of life-size in the window. Mr. Warwick paid us 
 a visit and stayed to lunch with us, which was very kind, 
 as little Mary May having the scarlet fever, both she 
 and her father and mother are quarantined in their 
 suite of rooms, and Thompson Macdonough and I might 
 have a lonely time were it not for the kindness of our 
 friends. 
 
 Sunday, the 20tJi, 1 spent at Mrs. Warwick's. Have 
 had a terrible cold. 
 
 Monday, 21st. — Thompson Macdonough and I drove 
 in a coupe to the park and on the boulevard, then 
 to the top of a hill or elevation in the park, command- 
 ing a view of the sea, and where we inhaled the salt 
 air. The foliage is now in full luxuriance, and many 
 shrubs are in bloom. 
 
96 A wanderer's journal 
 
 To-day, the 22clj Thompson and I went by the way of 
 the street cars to Fort Hamilton. Part of the way 
 tliey were propelled by a dummy engine. We passed 
 lovely residences and many old farms and farm-houses, 
 betokening solid comfort. What pretty drives could be 
 taken on these country roads! My dear little niece, 
 Mary May, is better to-night, though her life seems to 
 hang on a frail and slender thread. 
 
 Wednesday, May 2Sd. — Spent the day at Mrs. War- 
 wick's. It has been rather rainy. 
 
 Friday, May 2oth. — In the afternoon took dinner at 
 Mrs. Warwick's, the day being Mrs. Warwick's birth- 
 day. 
 
 Saturday, May 26th. — Mary May worse, with conges- 
 tion of the lungs. 
 
 Sunday, May 21th. — Rode in a street car to Mrs. 
 Warwick's. Mary May a little better, though very ill. 
 
 Monday, May 28th. — Thompson and I went by street 
 car to the park, and rode around it in the park phae- 
 ton. The dogwood, horse-chestnut, red and white, 
 and many flowering shrubs are in bloom. Rainy in p.m., 
 ending in a violent rain-storm in the evening, with 
 thunder and lightning and high wind. 
 
 Tuesday, May 29th. — Thompson and I took the 
 Flatbush avenue cars at iO o'clock, from Clark street, 
 to the Flatbush avenue station, then the steam cars to 
 Brighton Beach after a ride of twenty minutes, having. 
 
BROOKLYN 97 
 
 however, to walk one-quarter of a mile to the beach, 
 where we sat and inhaled the sea air until it was time 
 to return, when we again admired the loveliness of the 
 country after the rain. We passed farm-houses nestled 
 among the trees, and vegetable gardens. While wait 
 ing at the Flatbush station we picked some flowers and 
 grasses by the roadside, where evidently there had 
 been a garden ; for there were stars of Bethlehem and 
 periwinkle, snow-drop shrubs and acacia trees. On ar- 
 riving at the hotel we were glad to learn that Mary 
 May was better. Mrs. Warwick lunched with us. 
 
 Wednesclmj, May dOth.—l spent the day at Mrs 
 Warwick's. Mary May is a little better ; Mr. Macdon- 
 ough ill. Heavy shower at night. 
 
 Fridatj, June Is^f.— Saturday and Sunday I stayed in 
 the house, on account of Thompson's illness, though 
 the days were fine, until Sunday p.m. when Mr. War- 
 wick accompanied me on a street car to East New York, 
 returning by the elevated railway, passing through a 
 delightful portion of the city. Yet I was very tired 
 after the journey. 
 
 3f07idaij, June Uh.—YmQ and cool. Very tired from 
 having had neuralgia, p.m., wishing for air, I took a 
 ride on the Flatbush avenue cars to the end of the route, 
 passing by the way charming old places, the grounds 
 being ornamented with flowers and grand old trees, the 
 houses being quaint in structure. In one garden were 
 two lovely wisterias, one white and one purple, trained 
 on old trees. 
 
98 A wanderer's journal 
 
 Tuesday, June bth. — Although very lame I rode in 
 the street car with Thompson to the park and return, 
 having to rest afterward. After lunch I wrote home. 
 
 Wednesday, June 6tJi. — Thompson and I went to 
 Long Beach, and arrived there about 13 o'clock noon. 
 We had to change at Jamaica, and at Pearsall. We 
 passed many lovely spots, among which were Wood- 
 haven and Morris Park, where there were beautiful res- 
 idences and grounds laid out with most perfect taste. 
 The country was in a lovely dress of green. The waves 
 at the beach rolled up in glorious style. We ate our 
 sandwiches with a relish. I reclined on the sand, with 
 my shawl wrapped around me, and my umbrella over 
 my head, while my nephew roamed over the beach. I 
 picked up a few shells to add to those gathered by 
 Thompson. We noticed on our return trip, at one of the 
 small stopping places, that the yards of some of the 
 houses extended to the edge of the water, which was 
 formed into a creek by the extension of a branch of the 
 sea into the marsh, where their row-boats were waiting 
 for use. Evidently the inhabitants were fishermen. 
 There seemed to be miles and miles of marsh. 
 
 Thursday, June "^tli. — Spent at Mrs. Warwick's. 
 
 Friday, June Sfh. — Thompson and I went to Pros- 
 pect Park, where we sat under the trees, and walked a 
 little way looking at the tame deer in the enclosure, and 
 admiring the shrubs in flower. Thompson gathered a 
 bouquet of white clover, part of which I brought home 
 
NEW YORK HARBOR 99 
 
 to dear little Mary May, who is improving, and whose 
 life we hope will be saved. 
 
 Saturdaij, June 9fJi. — Thompson and I took the 
 street cars to Flatbush avenue and returned in the after- 
 noon. I went to a florist's and bonght a bouquet for 
 sister Allie's birthday, which will be to-morrow. 
 
 Simdaij, June 20//^.— Called at Mrs. Warwick's. 
 
 Monday, lltlijune. — Thompson and I took the Flat- 
 bush avenue car to Prospect Park station, where we took 
 a steam-car to Brighton Beach. We had to walk a long 
 way across tracks, among rubbish and stones, and sand, 
 to reach the beach. The tide was low, which left quite 
 a wide stretch of sand on which people were walking. 
 We sat on some low posts and watched the waves and 
 tlie distant sail-boats and shores until a little before 
 five P.M., when we again walked to the cars, by which 
 we were rapidly whirled past farms, fields of daisies, 
 pretty woodlands and quaint old houses, through two 
 small tunnels to the city and by street cars to the hotel. 
 
 Tuesday, June 12th. — Thompson Macdonough and I, 
 going down to the dock by street car, went on board the 
 boat BisJioj), and sailing past the west side of Governor's 
 Island, having on one side a view of Brooklyn with its res- 
 idences and flower-terraced grounds, docks, storehouses, 
 Fort Hamilton in the distance and a fleet of yachts. 
 After passing Governor's Island with its green shores, 
 we came in view of the Jersey shore, part of it fronted 
 by docks with ocean ships, and some of it by old and 
 
 i 'JO. 
 
100 A wanderer's journal 
 
 handsome miinsioiis surrounded by beautiful grounds 
 extending to the water's edge. Then Staten Island, on 
 the high ground of whicli were houses some in castle 
 style, sonieiu colonial style with wooden pillars in front. 
 We had to walk quite a stretch of dock before we reached 
 the street, when we took a carriage to the enclosure 
 where Buffalo Bill — Col. William Cody — his Indians 
 and cow-boys, gave illustrations of Western prowess in 
 shooting and horsemanship, both of which were wonder- 
 ful. Bands of several different tribes in full war cos- 
 tume rode and formed in a body and in line ; the chief 
 of each tribe riding alone and standing alone in front of 
 the band. The cow-boys also showed their manner of 
 riding, and the manner in which the pony express was 
 managed, the dexterous and quick changing of the sad- 
 dle from one pony to the next, fresh horses being ready 
 at intervals. There were races between white or Amer- 
 ican girls and Indian girls, the former of whom proved 
 themselves accomplished riders and one of whom was 
 quick and true in managing the gun. There were 
 shooting by Buffalo Bill on foot, aiming at saucers 
 thrown in the air, and by Buffalo Bill on horseback at 
 glass balls thrown by an Indian, also on horseback, and 
 by cow-boys on foot. 'Jlie attack and repulse of an em- 
 igrant train and the old mail coach drawn by black mules, 
 was acted. The stealthy manner of an Indian approach 
 was shown and their dispersal by cow-boys. The Indian 
 war-dance was a fit enactment of the hideous reality. 
 The Virginia reel on horseback by cow-boys and Ameri- 
 can girls was pretty, skillfully executed and graceful^ 
 
ASBURY PARK 101 
 
 as also tlie wonderfully beautiful performance of ahorse 
 controlled by his girl rider ; he kept time to the music, 
 and rose on his hind feet now and then, thus saluting 
 the audience. The manner of hunting the buffalo was 
 shown by pursuing a herd of tame ones with blank cart- 
 ridge. The animals, among which were two baby buffa- 
 loes, seemed quite trained for tlie performance. The 
 grove in which were the tents, was very beautiful. The 
 return sail was delightful. We passed very near the 
 famous statue of Liberty Enlightening the World, 
 and reached our hotel tired, but glad that we had see 
 the famed Indian tamer. 
 
 Wednesday, June lotli. — Spent the day at Mrs. War- 
 wick's. After lunch Ada Neal, Mrs. Warwick's 
 daughter, took me for a long drive through Prospect 
 Park. 
 
 Sunday, June lltli. — Mary May being better, though 
 not yet able to walk, we all took a drive of two hours to 
 the park. p.m. — Called to ask about Mrs. Warwick, who 
 s very ill. 
 
 Monday, June 18///. — In the morning had to go to the 
 shops and found them very oppressive. 
 
 Tuesday, June 18th. — We started at 2 o'clock p.m., in 
 a carriage to the ferry ; then from the ferry to the train, 
 and after passing through a beautiful farming country, 
 some fields of daisies delighting our eyes, we reached As- 
 bury Park at 6 o'clock p.m. 
 
102 A wanderer's journal 
 
 WeduescJai/, June 20th. — Warm. We went down on 
 the beach wliere Mary May had a play in tlie sand. 
 
 Thursday, June "iiXst. — Warm. Tliis morning all 
 went to the beach and rested on the sand, where we 
 watched the waves dashing, and a few bathers in the 
 surf. Mary May is improving rapidly in this sea air» 
 Brother Bird's birthday. 
 
 June 2Sth. Thursday, — A raging storm on the- 
 Atlantic, the waves rolling on the beach in a sheet of 
 foam as we can see, for a long stretch of coast-line. We 
 moved from the St. James to the Oriental, but not 
 quite liking the situation, we again moved to the Bruns- 
 wick, from which we have a fine sea view and breeze. 
 Mary May can walk and is improving. Yesterday we 
 took a drive to Long Branch. The country was fra- 
 grant with the perfume of clover hay and wild flowers 
 mingled with the ocean breeze, and the fields were 
 white with daisies. We passed Sunset Lake in which 
 were small row-boats and pretty, small round islands, 
 around which people were rowing. Deal Lake, with its 
 pretty beach on which row-boats were waiting for occu- 
 pants, near a cunning little bower of a house where 
 refreshments were sold and rabbits were frolicking, and 
 where art in the shape of a curious statue of a woman 
 in blue painted costume, held guard over some gera- 
 niums, is a pretty lake with a life-saving station on one 
 side between tlie lake and the ocean, and seemed to 
 extend, Avitli its wooded shores, quite far into the 
 country. I noticed a carriage road around it on one 
 
LONG BRANCH 103 
 
 side, and thought how enjoyable it would be to follow 
 its windings. We crossed, by a bridge, another lake 
 which the driver told us was Takanasse Lake. On the 
 right, near the road- side, we passed two delightful farm- 
 houses, one of which the driver informed us was one of 
 the oldest in that part of the country, and one could 
 quite imagine it a quaint and restful place for Summer, 
 in the midst of green fields. Carriages were kept to 
 convey the bathers to the not far distant ocean beach. 
 Our attention was drawn to an unoccupied house, said 
 to be 150 years old, now without dwellers. Beautiful 
 cottages adorned the landscape. Then after a stretch of 
 breezy country road, we came to the west end of Long 
 Branch. Among the lovely summer dwellings of varied 
 and attractive designs, Elberon cottage, where Garfield 
 spent his dying hours, was pointed out to us — a very 
 unpretentious one witli plain red facings, but in full 
 view of the sea. General Grant's cottage was also 
 plainly finished in a kind of grey color. George W. 
 Childs^ cottage was ablaze with flowers. There were 
 three houses where Mr^. Winslow, of soothing syrup 
 fame, and htr daughters, we are told, make their 
 summer home. They did not seem to me quite as 
 attractive as many of the others. Some of the houses 
 were of black and white with greenish trimmings, but 
 that did not seem to me as pretty as the brighter finish- 
 ings. One, however, trimmed in fawn color of varied 
 shades was neat and pretty. The stables, tastefully 
 built and well kept, added much to the attractiveness of 
 the grounds, many of which were gay with flowers, and 
 
104 A wanderer's journal 
 
 ill all the eye was refreshed with well kept lawns. We- 
 drove through the Hoey Park, magnificent in dimen- 
 sions, a large yellow house in the center and a lavish 
 display of green-houses, equaling the Washington hor- 
 ticultural gardens. Statuary ornamented the lawns. Not 
 far from one of the entrances a pretty railroad station was 
 being built, thus completing the convenience of this ele- 
 gant place, enabling the owner to alight almost at his 
 own door. We then drove through Long Branch passing 
 hotels that faced the ocean, which did not seem to ns 
 as easy of access as Asbury Park. Under the bluffs are 
 the bathing houses and grounds, the former seeming to 
 be of rougli boards and not finished as at Asbury Park. 
 A long pier extends into the sea, a landing-place, I 
 suppose, for steamers. There were the usual fruit and 
 fancy stores, some dry goods stores, and saloons and res- 
 taurants, and an elegant club-house with a profusion of 
 flowers adding to the attraction of the building. The 
 beautiful Hollywood Hotel formed quite a contrast to 
 the plainer buildings, though the plain ones might have 
 been quite as comfortable. Turning homeward after buy- 
 ing some fruit, we met a continual line of fine equipages, 
 representing the style of Long Branch. Then again 
 past the fragrant fields, stopp'ng, however, that our 
 little Mary May, still delicate, might be lifted out of the 
 carriage and placed in the midst of the daisies, to pick 
 at her own sweet will. In her cunning child-language 
 she said that she did not like to '^muss the daisies" 
 when placed among them. Then on, now admiring 
 the hay piled in mounds ready for storage, then repeat- 
 
DETROIT 105 
 
 ing the charming view of cottages, gardens, woods, 
 fields, lakes and ocean. We arrived at our hotel in 
 time for supper, at a few. minutes past six o'clock, all 
 enchanted and benefited by the drive which brought the 
 pink color into my little niece's cheeks, and I fancied, 
 brightened my sister though she grew very tired, hold- 
 ing her sleeping daughter a part of the way. We sat 
 on the veranda pretty late, and retired happy that we 
 had enjoyed so beautiful a scene. 
 
 Friday, Jtme 29^/^.— Another stormy, rainy day, 
 though clearing in the afternoon. At night we were 
 so cold that we had to sleep under blankets. 
 
 Saturday, June 30^^^.— Fine, clear, cold a.m., grow- 
 ing warmer in the afternoon and evening. We all went 
 to the shops this morning buying toys and presents for 
 home people. Mary May is improving, so that she can 
 walk quite a good deal. 
 
 j^ly 2f/.— Started from Asbury Park at 1 o'clock and 
 fifteen minutes, in the cars for New York, ferrying over 
 from Jersey City and taking the night boat to Albany. 
 
 Some of us watched the scenery until dark. Unfor- 
 tunately we could not procure sufficient sleeping room ; 
 so that we had to make the best of the night without 
 undressing. Arriving at Albany, we staye,d at the Dela- 
 van until the one o'clock train, which we took, reaching 
 Buffalo at about 8 o'clock p.m. very tired. 
 
 July 4:th. — Wednesday, at 1 o'clock, we started on the 
 way- train, arriving at Detroit quite early in the after- 
 noon. 
 
106 A wanderer's journal 
 
 We remained there until the following Tuesday when 
 we went on the Michigan Central train, arriving at 
 Cheboygan early in the evening, and driving to Duncan, 
 where we have had a cool Summer, varied by trips ta 
 the Island of Mackinac, once to witness a sham battle; 
 after which we walked across the field to the camping 
 ground, picturesque with the white tents arranged un- 
 der the protecting shadow of the fort, with dark firs for 
 a background. Then we strolled across to Plank's hotel, 
 on the broad piazza of which we rested. Dining at six,, 
 with the music of a fine band for accompaniment, we 
 took a trip across the water by starlight. Again we 
 visited the fair isle to see a yacht race, in which our 
 Canadian neighbors won, and carried away the cup. 
 The view from the piazza of the hotel is superb. We 
 watched the beautiful changing colors of water and sky, 
 with yachts and sail-boats, large and small, like white 
 birds breastiug the waves, the shore of the mainland on 
 one side, Bois Blanc and Bound Island on the other, 
 clad in the rich green woodland garments of firs and 
 pines, edged with a line of pebbly beach. We also over- 
 looked the town and beach of Mackinac Island. After 
 dinner, we watched for a while the moonlight shining 
 with silvery rays on the water, then embarked for a 
 moonlight ride across its depths. A few rides to the 
 woods also somewhat broke the monotony — to the 
 woods fragrant with cedar and hemlock, and carpeted 
 with mosses. AVe brought home our treasures of autumn 
 leaves, and the curious fungus that is attached to th& 
 old trees. 
 
AT HOME 107 
 
 Mv. 2Wi. Thnrsdat/.—We spent our Thanksgiving 
 nt our brotlier's house, some of our party having en joyed 
 service at St. James cliurcli, Cheboygan. 
 
 Mv. 30th. Fridcnj.—QoU and stormy with bleak 
 winds. AVe expect next week to start upon another 
 journey. 
 
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