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THE CHANGING CHINESE
THE
CHANGING CHINESE
THE CONFLICT OF ORIENTAL AND
WESTERN CULTURES IN CHINA
BY
EDWARD ALSWORTH ROSS, Ph.D., LL.D.
PROFESSOR OF SOCIOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN
AUTHOR OF "SOCIAL CONTROL," "FOUNDATIONS OF SOCIOLOGY,"
"SOCIAL PSYCHOLOGY," ETC.
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NEW YORK
THE CENTURY CO.
1911
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Copyright, 1911, by
The Century Co.
Copyright, 1911, by The Ridgway Company
Published, October, 1911
*V
©CI.A2 078G0
I
The Cliff: of the Thousand Gods, on the Kialing
River in North Szechuan
TO
DR. AMOS P. WILDER
AMERICAN CONSUL GENERAL AT SHANGHAI
FRIEND OF THE CHANGING CHINESE
AND ELOQUENT 'INTERPRETER TO THEM
OF THE BEST AMERICANISM
THIS BOOK
IS DEDICATED
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
PAGE
China to the Ranging Ete 3
Medieval aspect of the cities — Streets, water supply, light-
ing and fuel — Contrast between Chinese and Japanese in
point of neatness — Costume, pailows and pawn-shops —
River traffic and the riverine population — Rural ties of
city-dwellers — Characterizing influence of the loess — Ruth-
less destruction of the forests — Calamitous results of de-
forestation — No hope of improvement in our time — Why
game is so plentiful — The Great Wall — Racial contrasts
between Northern and Southern Chinese.
CHAPTER II
The Race Fiber of the Chinese 33
Selection and survival in China — Relentless elimination of
the less fit — Testimony as to the effect upon race physique
— Quick and sure recovery of the Chinese from grave
wounds and surgical operations — Their comparative free-
dom from blood poisoning, dysentery, typhoid and small-
pox — Their bluntness of nerve — Diseases they fail to
resist — The Chinese physique distinguished, not by a
primitive vitality, but by specific immunities from the
poisons of congested life — Their toleration of noxious
microbes unique and not likely to be developed in other
races — Military and industrial significance of the tough-
ness of the Chinese.
CHAPTER III
The Race Mind of the Chinese 51
The Chinese reflective rather than impulsive — Their re-
sponse to stimuli slow but strong and persistent — Their
self-control, steadiness and reliability — Conservatism not
a race trait, but a by-product of their social history —
Cause of the early arrest of their cultural development —
Prospect of the early release of the Chinese intellect
from the spell of the past — Comparative ability of the
viii CONTENTS
PAGE
yellow race and the white — Naturalness and likableness
of the Chinese — Their sense of humor, politeness and re-
spect for age — Why their old men are so often attractive
— Mere borrowing cannot put them abreast of the West;
they must establish a new relation between population
and opportunities and this will take time.
CHAPTER IV
The Struggle for Existence in China 70
Extraordinary utilization of the soil — Aerial tillage —
Made fields — Why the cities are scavenged for nothing —
Queer foods — Strange gleanings and pilferings — Men kill-
ing themselves by toil — Incredible poverty of the masses
— Absence of comfort — Cheapening of human life — Why
the Chinese are so cohesive and clannish — Why so utili-
tarian — No cause for such a struggle for existence save
over-population — How ancestor worship whets the desire
for large families — Marriage early and universal — Pro-
creative recklessness and the appalling infant mortality
resulting therefrom — Famines and migrations — The Chi-
nese death-rate will be brought down sooner than the
birth-rate — Prospect of extreme overcrowding and out-
thrust — Chinese emigration likely to become a world
question.
CHAPTER V
The Industrial Future of China 112
The military "yellow peril" a bogey — Difficulty of reviv-
ing the fighting spirit in the Chinese — The industrial
"yellow peril" — Amazing cheapness of labor in China —
Factories rapidly springing up — But China herself offers
an enormous market for their products — Low wages not
the same as low labor-cost — Not enough capital to build
railways and also expand manufactures — How a rapa-
cious government paralyzes the spirit of enterprise —
Untrustworthiness of the Chinese in joint-stock under-
takings — Nepotism and favoritism, place-holders and sine-
curists — The problem of the foreign expert — Inefficiency
of native management — Oriental competition will be our
grandchildren's problem.
CHAPTER VI
The Grapple With the Opium Evil 139
Growth and extent of the luxury-use of opium — Why the
opium pipe is so seductive to the Chinese — Why society
has been so slow to react against the vice — Motive be-
CONTENTS ix
PAGE
hind the Anti-Opium Edict — Provisions of the Edict —
Economic difficulties in the way of suppressing opium-
growing — Tragic incidents of the fight on the poppy —
Practical results of the campaign — Testing the mandarins
for smoking — Increasing restrictions on the sale and use
of opium — The Foochow policy — The impression on public
opinion and current moral standards — The agreement
with England — The end of opium in sight — Lessons from
China's experience.
CHAPTER VII
Unbinding the Women of China 174
Extent, motives and consequences of foot-binding — The
missionaries initiate the fight against the custom — Work
of the Natural-Foot Society — Support from the Empress
Dowager — Progress of the reform in the upper classes —
Foot-binding still wide-spread and will die out but slowly.
Inferior position of the female in the family — Chinese
opinion of woman's character — Relative value of the two
sexes — The female exists for the sake of the male — So-
cial intercourse organized for men — No mixed society —
The status of the daughter in the family — Rearing mar-
riages, child-betrothals and parental match-making —
Heart-binding even more damaging to woman's health
than foot-binding — The bride's subjection to her mother-
in-law — Point of view of a Confucian — The revolt of the
silk-reelers against marriage — Mission-school girls — Gov-
ernment education of girls — Freer customs — "Liberty
girls" — The effect of female emancipation upon the fu-
ture of the Chinese.
CHAPTER VIII
Christianity in China 216
Lama worship compared with practical Christianity —
The low plane of Chinese religions — The people saturated
with superstition — The mission force in China — How the
Chinese explain the presence of the missionary — Cause of
anti-missionary outbreaks — Changing attitude of the
mandarins — Contrast of aims between British missions
and American — New conceptions of mission work — "Rice
Christians" — Transforming power of Christianity — What
conversion entails — Deceptive "mass-movements" — What
the higher classes think — Types drawn to the Christian
ideal — The higher standing of daughter and wife among
converts — The indirect and unseen fruits of missionary
labor — Animus of critics — Missionary mistakes and prob-
lems — Reaction of missionary work upon native faiths —
Future of Christianity in China.
x CONTENTS
CHAPTER IX
PAGE
The Fab West of the Far East 260
Chinese highways — Signal towers — Monuments — Cost of
carriage — The currency problem — Strange aspect of the
country — Idyllic harvesting — Havoc wrought by deforesta-
tion — What is lost when the woods go — Missionary life
and work — Sianfu — The Pei-lin — Religious rivalry — The
Tartar bannermen — The new army — Itinerant harvesters
— Fgngsiangfu — Mountaineers of West Shensi — "Eoad of
the Golden Ox" — Highway neglect — Characterizing influ-
ence of rice culture — The great road of North Szechuan
— Packmen — Beauty of West-China types — Ravages of
disease — Squalor and dreariness of life in overpeopled
Szechuan — The Chengtu plain — Incredible productiveness
— Manure traps — Irrigation wheels — Progressiveness of
Chengtu — What holds the Chinese back — Why the mar-
tial virtues vanished — The hampering ideals of the
scholar type — How to unleash the native energy of the
race.
CHAPTER X
The New Education 310
Medievalism of Chinese thinking — Ignorance of the prin-
ciple of efficiency — Secret of the impotence of old China
in coping with Western nations — Characteristics of the
old education — Motives to the introduction of the West-
ern branches — The scope of present education in China —
Inefficient management of the higher schools — Sinecurism
— Poor use of the foreign teacher — The overloaded course
of study — Errors of the Board of Education — Traits of
the Chinese student — Indications as to his capacity —
His lack of discipline, reliance upon mass action, and
contempt for manual labor — His poor physique and neg-
lect of physical training — His attitude towards sports —
The burden of the ideographic language; efforts at sim-
plification — The reaction of the educational revolution
upon moral standards — The golden opportunity of the
mission colleges.
Index 347
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
The Cliff of the Thousand Gods, on the Kialing
River in North Szechuan Frontispiece
A pottery — the walls built with defective pots 5 <•-'
A blocked path 5
Typical ornamental gateways 10
House-boats lining a river avenue 15
Indian bullock in a Quangsi bullock-cart 20
A Peking cart 20
A half-buried gate-tower 26
A silted-up bridge in Shansi. One of the ultimate results of
deforestation 26
The great wall 31
A Canton water-front crowd 37 "
Station platform faces 37 '-'
The river stairs up which all the water for Chungking is borne 44 v
Scene in the Imperial City, Peking 49 1^
Hovel on beach at Kiukiang. Over the door the character for
"happiness" 49 \S~
A police squad in Sianfu 56 ^
Meeting of the first provincial assembly of the Province of
Fokien, Foochow, October, 1909 56 '""
Altar, Temple of Heaven, Peking 59
View in the Temple grounds of the Ming Tombs. Mountains
near Peking 59
A rustic Endymion of West China 67 ^
An old farmer 67
Cave dwelling of a coal miner 76 ■
Perfected tillage of the valley of an affluent of the Wei River 76 '•
Junk on the Yangtse 81 v ~
Fishing with cormorants 81
What passes for a public highway 88
A common carrier 88
One of the three life boats that escorted us through the gorges 93
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS
PAGE
An ancient mariner 93 ^
Braving the Yangtse flood. Cliff swallows' nests at Chung-
king 100 v
A wayside beggar 107 l/ '
Professional beggar dinning to make a shopkeeper contribute 107 "
The railway police at a station 115 '
Chinese officers 115*
Tracking a junk through the gorges of the Yangtse . . . 121 ^
Working a Yangtse junk with oar and sweep 124 v
Cash equivalent to $3.15, weight 50 lbs. . .' . . . . . 129 £/
A slow freight on the Great Northern Road 129 w '
Weighing silver ingots in a Sianfu bank 135/
A protected monument at Sianfu 135 v/
Family and home vanishing into the opium pipe .... 144 v
South half of the west wall of Sianfu, from the west gate . 147
City wall and five-story pagoda, Canton 147
Opium pipes confiscated by the Anti-Opium Society . . . 154
Captives of the lamp and pipe 162
Death in the lamp of the opium smoker 165
Burning of opium pipes and other paraphernalia confiscated
by the Foochow Anti-Opium Society (eighth time) . . 167
An old Chinese garden at Taiku 186'
Flower pagoda, Canton 186
One of the south gates into the Tartar City, Peking . . . 191 17
Temple of Five Hundred Genii, Canton 191
Gate between two provinces in West China 200
Scenic archway at the crest of a mountain pass 200
No chance for them 208
Joss house, Foochow and Baby Tower where girl infants are
thrown when not wanted 208
One of two hundred day schools organized by a Foochow mis-
sionary 213
A bride's canopy, Peking 213
High altar of a Buddhist temple of the Kushan monastery . 221 v
Temple in a gorge, Kushan monastery 221 >'
A wealthy Shansi family of foreignizing tendencies . . . 226
Monks of Kushan Monastery 226
A noble type of Christian 232 l/
A distinguished pastor whose face reveals the high possibili-
ties of his race 232
How a road wears down into the loess 237 v
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS
PAGE
Buddhist monks on pilgrimage to Wutaiskan on the Five Sa-
cred Mountains 237 ^
Temple in Canton 243 *
An Alpine road in western Shensi 248' ^
Monastery on the "Little Orphan" isle on the Yangtse . . 248 t -''
A Cliff shrine near the northern frontier of Szechuan . . 254 ^
Looking south from the Bell Tower, Sianfu 263 ^
The east gate of Taiyuanfu, showing macadamized street . 263 l/
An ancient ornamental gate over the Southwestern Highroad 269 -
One of the ancient brick signal-towers occurring every three
miles on the Southwestern highroad uniting Peking with
the remote provinces 269
The type of public monument universal in Shansi .... 278
Grave-stones, Chihli 278
Cedars on the main road across Northern Szechuan. Each
tree is protected by a tablet warning against depredation 283
Patriarch on the highway. Willows line the road most of the
way from Tungkwan to Sianfu 283
Ferrying across the Yellow Biver 292
Houses with brick stoops and benches, showing resort to mud
and brick in a timberless country 292
Noontide in a street of Paisiang 300 ' y
In the valley of the Wei 300
A horseshoe tomb in a South China hillside 305
Coffins in rest-house waiting for the lucky day 305
Outlook tower of the Temple of the Flowing Waters in South-
ern Shensi. Founded about 200 B. C 313 ^
Wayfarers resting in the shade of a tree protected by the
monuments and the temple 320
Traffic through the loess en route to the distant railroad . . 320
The seething whirlpools in the gorges of the Yangtse . . . 329
In the gorges of the Upper Yangtse 329 u
PKEFACE
The old China hand is quite sure one can get
nowhere by a diligent half year of travel and in-
quiry in the Far East. "I have been here thirty
years," says the Chief Engineer, "and the longer
I stay the less I understand these people." "I
thought I had made them out after I had lived
here a couple of years," says the Trader, "but the
longer I am here the queerer they seem." No
traveler, if he consults the old treaty-port resi-
dents, will ever find courage to write anything
about the Chinese.
The fact is, to the traveler who appreciates how
different is the mental horizon that goes with an-
other stage of culture or another type of social
organization than his own, the Chinese do not
seem very puzzling. Allowing for difference in
outfit of knowledge and fundamental ideas, they
act much as we should act under their circum-
stances. The theory, dear to literary inter-
preters of the Orient, that owing to diversity in
xvi PEEFACE
mental constitution the yellow man and the white
man can never comprehend or sympathize with
one another, will appeal little to those who from
their comparative study of societies- have gleaned
some notion of what naturally follows from isola-
tion, the acute struggle for existence, ancestor
worship, patriarchal authority, the subjection of
women, the decline of militancy, and the ascend-
ancy of scholars.
Edward Alsworth Koss„
THE CHANGING CHINESE
THE
CHANGING CHINESE
CHAPTEE I
CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE
CHINA is the European Middle Ages made
visible. All the cities are walled and the
walls and gates have been kept in repair with an
eye to their effectiveness. The mandarin has his
headquarters only in a walled fortress-city and
to its shelter he retires when a sudden tempest
of rebellion vexes the peace of his district.
The streets of the cities are narrow, crooked,
poorly-paved, filthy and malodorous. In North
China they admit the circulation of the heavy
springless carts by which alone passengers are
carried ; but, wherever rice is cultivated, the mule
is eliminated and the streets are adapted only
to the circulation of wheel-barrows and pedes-
trians. There is little or no assertion of the
public interest in the highway and hence private
interests close in upon the street and well-nigh
block it. The shopkeeper builds his counter in
front of his lot line ; the stalls line the street with
their crates and baskets; the artisans overflow
into it with their workbenches, and the final
result is that the traffic filters painfully through
3
4 THE CHANGING CHINESE
a six-foot passage which would be yet more en-
croached on but for the fact that the officials in-
sist on there being room left for their sedan chairs
to pass each other.
The straitened streets are always crowded
and give the traveler the impression of a high
density and an enormous population. But the
buildings are chiefly one story in height and, with
the exception of Peking, Chinese cities cover
no very great area. For literary effect their
population has been recklessly exaggerated and,
in the absence of reliable statistics, every trav-
eler has felt at liberty to adopt the highest guess.
Until recently there was no force in the cities
to maintain public order. Now, khaki-clad po-
licemen, club in hand, patrol the streets, but their
efficiency in time of tumult is by no means vin-
dicated. A slouching, bare-foot, mild-faced gen-
darme such as you see in Canton is by no means
an awe-inspiring embodiment of the majesty of
the law.
There is no common supply of water. When
a city lies by a river the raw river water is borne
about to the houses by regular water-carriers
and the livelong day the river-stairs are wet
from the drip of buckets. When the water is
too thick it is partially clarified by stirring it
with a perforated joint of bamboo containing
some pieces of alum.
There is no public lighting and after nightfall
the streets are dark, forbidding, and little fre-
quented. Until kerosene began to penetrate the
A pottery — the walls built with defective pots
A blocked, path
_
CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 7
Empire the common source of light was a candle
in a paper lantern or a cotton wick lighted
in an open cup of peanut oil. Owing to the lack
of a good illuminant the bulk of the people retire
with the fowls and rise with the sun. By mak-
ing the evening of some account for reading or
for family intercourse, kerosene has been a great
boon to domestic life.
Fuel is scarce and is sold in neat bundles of
kindling size. Down the West Eiver ply innu-
merable boats corded high with firewood floating
down to Canton and Hong Kong. Higher and
higher the tree destruction extends and farther
and farther does the axman work his way from
the waterways. Chaff and straw, twigs and
leaves and litter are burned in the big brick bed-
steads that warm the sleepers on winter nights
and under the big shallow copper vessels set in
the low brick or mud stoves. Fuel is econo-
mized and household economy simplified among
the poor by the custom of relying largely on the
food cooked and vended in the street. The port-
able restaurant is in high favor, for our preju-
dice against food cooked outside the home is a
luxury the common people cannot afford to in-
dulge in.
Proper chimneys are wanting and wherever
cooking goes on the walls are black with the
smoke that is left to escape as it will. Chinese
interiors are apt to be dark for, in the absence
of window glass, the only means of letting in
light without weather is by pasting paper on
8 THE CHANGING CHINESE
lattice. The floors are dirt, brick or tile, the
roof tile or thatch. To the passer-by private
ease and luxury are little in evidence. If a man
has house and grounds of beauty, a high wall
hides them from the gaze of the public. Open
lawns and gardens are never seen and there is
no greenery accessible to the public unless it be
the grove of an occasional temple.
In the houses of the wealthy, although there
is much beauty to be seen, the standard of neat-
ness is not ours. Cobwebs, dust, or incipient
dilapidation do not excite the servant or mortify
the proprietor. While a mansion may contain
priceless porcelains and display embroideries
and furniture that would be pronounced beauti-
ful the world over, in general, the interiors
wrought by the Chinese artisan do not compare
in finish with those of his Western confrere.
Most striking is the contrast between China
and Japan in respect to neatness. The Chinese
seem neglectful, and ignorant of the art of care-
taking and repair. They have never acted on
the maxim "a stitch in time saves nine." They
prefer to build new rather than to keep up the
old. With " China" rise recollections of tat-
tered mat sails catching the wind like a sieve,
leaning and crumbling walls, sagging temple
roofs, moss-grown loosened tiles, cracked pave-
ments, ragged thatch, rotting ceiling-cloths, rick-
ety screens and paved roads with their stones
tilting and broken. In Japan everything looks
spick and span — thatch well trimmed, walls well
CHINA TO THE RANGING EYE 11
washed, mats bright, roads in good repair, piles
of rubbish nowhere to be seen. Nothing have I
seen to compare with it save in Holland, Nor-
mandy and parts of England. After the memor-
able inundations of August, 1910, the celerity with
which these wonderful Japanese cleaned up and
set things in order was marvelous.
About Japanese cottages you see none of the
piles of rubbish, muck heaps, dirty pools, mud
holes, sagging roofs, toppling walls, rotting
thatch or loose stones one notices about most
Chinese villages. When a roof, wall, fence,
hedge, dam, bridge, or path is damaged, it is re-
paired at once. Among us, only New England
and places settled from Yankeedom can compare
with Japan in tidiness.
No memory of China is more haunting than
that of the everlasting blue cotton garments.
The common people wear coarse deep-blue
"nankeen." The gala dress is a cotton gown of
a delicate bird's-egg blue or a silk jacket of rich
hue. In cold weather the poor wear quilted cot-
ton, while the well-to-do keep themselves warm
with fur-lined garments of silk. A general adop-
tion of Western dress would bring on an economic
crisis, for the Chinese are not ready to rear
sheep on a great scale and it will be long before
they can supply themselves with wool. The
Chinese jacket is fortunate in opening at the
side instead of at the front. When the winter
winds of Peking gnaw at you with Siberian
teeth, you realize how stupid is our Western way
12 THE CHANGING CHINESE
of cutting a notch in front right down through
overcoat, coat and vest, apparently in order that
the cold may do its worst to the tender throat and
chest. On seeing the sensible Chinaman bring
his coat squarely across his front and fasten it
on his shoulder, you feel like an exposed totem-
worshiper.
Wherever stone is to be had, along or spanning
the main roads are to be seen the memorial arches
known as pailows erected by imperial permission
to commemorate some deed or life of extraor-
dinary merit. It is significant that when they
proclaim achievement, it is that of the scholar,
not that of the warrior. They enclose a central
gateway flanked by two and sometimes by four
smaller gateways, and comform closely to a few
standard types, all of real beauty. As a well-
built pailow lasts for centuries and as the erection
of such a memorial is one of the first forms of
outlay that occur to a philanthropic Chinaman,
they accumulate, and sometimes the road near
cities is lined with these structures until' one
wearies of so much repetition of the same thing
however beautiful.
In South-China cities a tall moat-girt building,
six or seven stories high, flat-topped and with
small windows high up, towers over the mean
houses like a medieval donjon keep. It is the
pawnshop, which also serves the public as bank
and safety deposit vault for the reason that it
can for some hours bid defiance to any robber at-
tack. In the larger centers sumptuous guild-
CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 13
halls are to be seen and the highly embellished
club-houses of the men from other provinces, who
feel themselves as truly strangers in a strange
land as did the Flemish or the Hansa traders in
the London of the thirteenth century. Some-
times men from different provinces join in es-
tablishing such headquarters and I recall in
Sianfu the stately ' ' Tri-province Club" accom-
modating strangers from Szechuan, Shansi and
Honan.
In the absence of good roads and draft animals
the utmost use has been made of the countless
waterways and there are probably as many boats
in China as in all the rest of the world. No-
where else are there such clever river-people, no-
where else is there so lavish an application of
man-muscle to water movement. The rivers are
alive with junks propelled by rowers who oc-
cupy the forward deck and stand as they ply
the oar. Sixteen or eighteen rowers man the
bigger boats and as, bare to the waist, they forge
by in rhythmic swing chanting their song of labor
the effect is fine. Save when there is a stiff
breeze to sail with, the up-river junks are towed
along the bank, and, as no tow-path has ever
been built, the waste of toil in scrambling along
slippery banks, clambering over rocks or creep-
ing along narrow ledges with the tow-rope is
distressing to behold.
In the South population is forced from the land
onto the water and myriads pass their lives in
sampans and house-boats. In good weather these
14 THE CHANGING CHINESE
poor families, living as it were in a single small
room with a porch at either end, seem as happy as
people anywhere. There is no landlord to
threaten eviction, no employer to grind them
down, no foreman to speed them np. There is
infinite variety in the stirring life of river and
foreshore that passes under their eyes; the bab-
ble and chatter never cease and no one need ever
feel lonely. The tiny home can be kept with a
Dutch cleanliness for water is always to be had
with a sweep of the arm. They pay no rent and
can change neighbors, residence, scenery or oc-
cupation when they please. No people is more
natural, animated and self-expressive, for they
have simplified life without impoverishing it and
have remained free even under the very harrow-
tooth of poverty.
Their children, little river Arabs, have their
wits sharpened early and not for long is the baby
tied to a sealed empty jar that by floating will
mark his location in case he tumbles into the
water. The year-old child knows how to take
care of himself. The tot of three or four can
handle the oar or the pole and is as sharp as our
boys of six or seven. Nothing escapes their pry-
ing black eyes and they can coax coppers out of
you as prettily as any Italian bambino.
Although the gates of the Chinese city close
at night, the city is by no means so cut off from
the open country as with us. The man in the
street never quite lets go of his kinsfolk in the
rural village. When, a little while ago, ship
CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 17
building and repairing became dull in Hong
Kong, there was no hanging of the unemployed
about the wharves, not because they had found
other jobs, but because most of them had dis-
persed to their ancestral seats in the country,
there to work on the old place till times im-
proved. The man's family always give him a
chance and there is rice in the pot for him and
his. Nor is this tie with the mother-stem al-
lowed to decay with the lapse of time. The suc-
cessful merchant registers his male children in
the ancestral temple of his clan, contributes to
its upkeep and is entitled to his portion of roast-
pork on the occasion of the yearly clan festival,
visits the old home during the holidays, sends
money back so that his people may buy more
land, takes his children out so they will get ac-
quainted and perhaps lets them pass their boy-
hood in the ancestral village so that, after he is
gone, they will love and cherish the old tie to the
soil. By such means, provided war or flood or
famine has not uprooted the stock, a city family,
even after the lapse of generations, retains a con-
nection with its rural kindred. A Chinese city
is not, therefore, a genuine civic community but
rather an agglomeration of persons who are
members of numerous little groups. No doubt
the establishment of municipal councils and the
grant to the citizens of control over their com-
mon affairs will tend to create a community-
spirit and weaken the feeling for the rural clan.
The mementos of the departed are so promi-
18 THE CHANGING CHINESE
nent that one might hesitate to say whether
China belongs to the living or to the dead. The
dead have been interred in burial places of
families or clans, not collected into cemeteries.
In the vicinity of the cities the landscape is
pustuled with graves and the dedication of the
land to this pious use makes very difficult an
extra-mural growth of the city. The campus of
the Canton Christian College represents three
hundred and sixty separate conveyances and is
still dotted with grave sites, the owners of which
refuse to sell. "Best houses" are provided
where encoffined bodies are kept for months,
sometimes for years, until a lucky day and place
for interment are discovered by the geomancer.
The Chinese coffin is put together not of boards
but of split hollowed logs and this pious but ex-
travagant custom has something to answer for
in the denuded appearance of the country.
Some of the most characteristic impressions of
China are connected with the great loess deposit
that mantles the larger part of North China to
the depth sometimes of hundreds of feet. Geol-
ogists interpret it as an accumulation of the dust
that the prevailing winds blowing from the arid in-
terior of Asia have sifted over the country. It is
unstratified, splits vertically, contains land shells
but no marine shells, and shows vertical tubes
as big as a needle which are supposed to have
been left by the decay of the roots of the grass
that clothed the surface as the deposit slowly
built up. "Where this mantle of dust fell on the
Indian bullock in a Quangsi bullock-cart
A Peking cart
CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 21
mountains it was soon worn thin so that the
bones of the land protrude. But what has been
washed from the steeper slopes has settled about
their base, filled up the lesser depressions and
softened the original outlines of the country.
The streams have cut down through the loess
and are all deeply stained with its characteristic
brown-yellow. Sweeping along so much of it they
cannot maintain a free channel for heavy navi-
gation and after they debouch upon the plain they
are prone to choke their bed and shift their
course. It is the loess that gives us Yellow
Eiver, Yellow Sea, Yellow Emperor (Hwangti)
and makes yellow the imperial color. The north-
ern half of the Peking-Hankow Eailway trav-
erses a vast yellow universe with scarcely a
stone, hill or tree. The soil and the streams are
yellow, the flat-roofed houses are yellow, the
walls of cities and villages are yellow. The air
is yellow with dust, the vegetation is coated with
it, the yellow people and their clothing are pow-
dered with it, and everything melts into the most
monochrome countryside peopled by civilized
men.
The loess slices like cheese and after three or
four years the marks of pick and spade are still
plain on the sides of the railway cuttings. Hence
most of the people in the mountains house them-
selves simply by digging a cave in a bank which
when plastered gives them a clean dry habita-
tion, warm in winter, cool in summer, and ex-
cellent in everything save ventilation. Some of
22 THE CHANGING CHINESE
these have two or three stories, boast framed
windows and doorways, and are well furnished.
It is rather startling, however, to look over a
broad flat country checkered with fields in a
state of high cultivation and see no roads,
houses, people or domestic animals. The roads
have cut their way into the loess and run at the
bottom of canyons sometimes seventy or eighty
feet deep. In the cliffs that line the roads and
watercourses the viewless population have carved
their dwellings and stables.
In China the notion of an undistributed public
good distinct from private goods has never es-
tablished itself in the general mind. The State
has been tribute-taker rather than guardian of
the general welfare, so the community is sacri-
ficed to the individual, the public to the local
group, and posterity to the living. Along the
Wei Eiver great quantities of quick-growing trees
are scattered amid the crops while the mountains
two or three miles away are denuded. Instead
of growing their wood and fuel on the rough
land which is good for nothing else, they grow
it in their fields to the detriment of their crops
because, in the absence of public administration,
the mountains are a no-man's land which all may
ravage and abuse.
The destruction of the remaining forests goes
on apace for the officials are utterly indifferent.
In North Chihli near Jehol there has recently
been a great butchery of what was but a few years
ago a noble forest. One finds enough fine
CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 23
straight poles of larch and pine piled up to string
a telegraph wire a thousand miles. There they
lie rotting while crooked willow carries the wires.
No doubt some official got his "squeeze" out of
the cutting of the trees for these poles, and now
nobody cares what becomes of them.
On the Kowloon hills opposite Hong Kong there
are frightful evidences of erosion due to deforesta-
tion several hundred years ago. The loose soil
has been washed away till the country is knobbed
or blistered with great granite boulders. North
of the Gulf of Tonkin I am told that not a tree
is to be seen and the surviving balks between the
fields show that much land once cultivated has
become waste. Erosion stripped the soil down
to the clay and the farmers had to abandon the
land. The denuded hill-slopes facing the West
Eiver have been torn and gullied till the red
earth glows through the vegetation like blood.
The coast hills of Fokien have lost most of their
soil and show little but rocks. Fuel-gatherers
constantly climb about them grubbing up shrubs
and pulling up the grass. No one tries to grow
trees unless he can live in their midst and so
prevent their being stolen. The higher ranges
further back have been stripped of their trees
but not of their soil for, owing to the greater
rainfall they receive, a verdant growth quickly
springs up and protects their flanks.
Deep-gullied plateaus of the loess, guttered
hillsides, choked water-courses, silted-up bridges,
sterilized bottom lands, bankless wandering
24 THE CHANGING CHINESE
rivers, dyked torrents that have built up their
beds till they meander at the level of the tree-
tops, mountain brooks as thick as pea soup, tes-
tify to the changes wrought once the reckless ax
has let loose the force of running water to re-
sculpture the landscape. No river could drain
the friable loess of Northwest China without
bringing down great quantities of soil that would
raise its bed and make it a menace in its lower,
sluggish course. But if the Yellow Eiver is more
and more "China's Sorrow" as the centuries
tick -off, it is because the rain runs off the de-
forested slopes of its drainage basin like water
off the roof of a house and in the wet season
rolls down terrible floods which burst the im-
mense and costly embankments, spread like a lake
over the plain and drown whole populations.
The British in Kowloon and the Germans in Kia-
ochow have made beginnings in re-afforestation;
but, save for some plantations for growing sleep-
ers which the Peking-Hankow Bail way Company
has made on the flanks of the mountains in North-
ern Hupeh, one sees no restoration by the Chinese
themselves. If the Chinese had not so early rid
themselves of feudalism the country might have
profited, as did Europe during the Middle Ages,
by the harsh forest laws and the vast wooded
preserves of a hunting nobility; or a policy of
national conservation would have availed if be-
gun five centuries ago. Now, however, nothing
will meet the dire need of China but a long
scientific, recuperative treatment far more ex-
A half -buried gate-tower
A silted-up bridge in Shansi. One of the ultimate
results of deforestation
CHINA TO THE RANGING EYE 27
tensive and thorough-going than even the most
enlightened European governments have at-
tempted. Since that is clearly beyond the fore-
sight and administrative capacity of this genera-
tion of Chinese, the slow physical deterioration
of the country may be expected to continue dur-
ing our time.
Despite absence of game protection, China con-
tains far more wild life than one would expect.
Tigers and leopards abound in some parts, ducks
swirl above the Yangtse in flocks of ten thou-
sand and many foreigners find royal sport for
the hunter within reach of the treaty ports. One
reason for so much game in an old thickly-set-
tled country is that Chinese gentlemen have had
no taste for the chase, and delight in the de-
struction of life is not general; another is that
the government puts so many obstacles in the
way of the people obtaining firearms that they
lack the means of killing game.
The Great "Wall is undoubtedly the grandest
and most impressive handiwork of man. Be-
side its colossal bulk our boasted railway em-
bankments and tunnels seem the work of pyg-
mies. Save the Pyramids of Egypt and the
Panama Canal there is no prodigy of toil to be
mentioned in the same breath with it. The brick
and stone in every fifty miles of this wall would
rear a pyramid higher than that of Cheops — and
there are at least seventeen hundred miles of
it! At Nankow Pass the wall is wide enough
for seven or eight men to march abreast along its
28 THE CHANGING CHINESE
top, twenty feet high, faced with hewn stone,
battlemented, and is strengthened every forty or
fifty rods by huge towers ten yards square in-
side. It clambers boldly up the steepest slopes,
creeps along the sheer precipices, and springs
from height to height leaving a square crenel-
lated tower on every crown. It follows the comb
of the mountains in order that the ground may
slope from it both ways. It zigzags from crest
to crest, dips into ravines and reappears mount-
ing the range beyond, so that it is seen in frag-
ments, the linking parts being hidden in the de-
files. For perhaps thirty miles the eye follows
this serpent in stone now streaking up the slopes,
now passing across the line of vision defined
against the black of the mountains beyond, now
cutting the afternoon sky with its battlements
as it follows some distant ridge. To the north
the mountains drop away into foothills each
crowned with its watch-tower. Then a plain,
another range of mountains with another wall,
and, beyond, the bleak wind-swept plateau of
Mongolia.
As one looked one could in imagination see
snag-toothed, thin-mustached nomads, in sheep-
skin coats with the fleece turned inside, halt on
their shaggy ponies, rest the butts of their spears
on the ground and search with restless disappoint-
ed eyes for some weak spot in this wall that had
never barred the path of their plundering fore-
fathers. And no doubt the parapet of the wall
was lined with Chinese soldiers in blue nankeen
CHINA TO THE RANGING EYE 29
who jeered at the discomfiture of their dreaded
hereditary enemies and shot arrows at them
through the slits in the stone. Now, thanks to
Buddhism and the Lama priests who have taken
all the fierceness out of the Mongols, the wall is
useless. Endless traffic streams unafraid through
the gateway at the pass. Mile-long trains of
great shaggy two-humped camels stalk by, bring-
ing in wool and hides and timber or taking out
brick tea, matches and kerosene.
That the Chinese are more homogeneous in
civilization than in blood comes out clearly when
one compares the Southern Chinese with the
Northern. The people of Chihli, in which Peking
is situated, must be at least six inches taller than
the Cantonese and the Hakkas. They show the
effect of the series of admixtures of Tartar blood,
for they are big sturdy people with a fresh
color and a frank eye. The railway guards look
and act like green, honest, good-natured American
lads fresh from the farm. They are deliberate
of movement and slow in mental processes, but
make good friends and good fighters. In the
South people are smaller, yellower, less manly
and less courageous. The ugly, wrinkled, cat-
like wily Chinamen of dime-novel fiction come
from the South. They are quicker of wit than
the Northerners but harder for us to understand
or trust. Upon the Canton type is built the cher-
ished literary legend of the unfathomableness and
superhuman craftiness of the Oriental.
The Northern Chinese, although less fertile in
30 THE CHANGING CHINESE
ideas, appear to be steadier in character than the
Cantonese and more faithful. They are truer to
their friends and, owing to their mutual trust,
they combine better. For this reason they may
be able to work the joint-stock company better
than the keen, clever merchants of the South and
hence take the lead in industrial development.
The great wall
CHAPTER II
THE KACE FIBEK OF THE CHINESE
OUT of ten children born among us three,
normally the weakest three, will fail to grow
up. Out of ten children horn in China these
weakest three will die and probably five more be-
sides. The difference is owing to the hardships
that infant life meets with among the Chinese.
If at birth the white infants and the yellow in-
fants are equal in stamina, the two surviving
Chinese ought to possess greater vitality of con-
stitution than the seven surviving whites. For
of these seven the five that would infallibly
have perished under Oriental conditions of life
are presumably weaker in constitution than the
two who could have endured even such con-
ditions. The two Chinese survivors will trans-
mit some of their superior vitality to their off-
spring; and these in turn will be subject to the
same sifting, so that the surviving two-tenths will
pass on to their children a still greater vitality.
Hence these divergent child mortalities drive,
as it were, a wedge between the physiques of the
two races. If, now, for generations we whites,
owing to room and plenty and scientific medicine
and knowledge of hygiene, have been subject to
a less searching and relentless elimination of the
33
34 THE CHANGING CHINESE
weaker children than the Chinese, it would be
reasonable to expect the Chinese to exhibit a
greater vitality than the whites.
With a view to ascertaining whether the marked
slackening in our struggle for life during the last
century or two and our greater skill in keeping
people alive has produced noticeable effects on
our physique, I closely questioned thirty-three
physicians practicing in various parts of China,
usually at mission hospitals.
Of these physicians only one, a very intelligent
German doctor at Tsingtao, had noticed no point
of superiority in his Chinese patients. He de-
clared them less resistant to injury, less respon-
sive to treatment and no more enduring of pain
than the simple and hardy peasants of Thuringia
amongst whom he had formerly practiced. Three
other physicians, each of whom had practiced a
quarter century or more in China, had observed
no difference in the physical reactions of the two
races. I fancy their recollections of their brief
student practice at home had so faded with time
that they lacked one of the terms of the com-
parison. Moreover, two of these admitted under
questioning that the Chinese do stand high fevers
remarkably well and that they do recover from
blood poisoning when a white man would die.
The remaining twenty-nine physicians were
positive that the Chinese physique evinces some
superiority or other over that of their home peo-
ple. As regards surgical cases, the general opin-
ion is voiced by one English surgeon who said,
THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 35
"They do pull through jolly well!" It was com-
monly observed that surgical shock is rare, and
that the proportion of recoveries from serious
cuttings is as high in the little, poorly equipped,
semi-aseptic mission hospitals of China as in the
perfectly appointed, aseptic hospitals at home.
Dr. Kinnear of Foochow, recently home from a
furlough in Germany, found that in treating
phlegma of the hand he, with his poor equipment
and native assistants, gets as good results as the
great Von Bergman working under ideal condi-
tions on the artisan population of Berlin. The
opinion prevails that under equal conditions the
Chinese will make a surer and quicker recovery
from a major operation than the white.
Many never get over being astonished at the
recovery of the Chinese from terrible injuries.
I was told of a coolie who had his abdomen torn
open in an accident, and who was assisted to the
hospital supported by a man on either side and
holding his bowels in his hands. He was sewed
up and, in spite of the contamination that must
have gotten into the abdomen, made a quick recov-
ery! Amazing also is the response to the treat-
ment of neglected wounds. A boy whose severed
fingers had been hastily stuck on anyhow and
bound up with dirty rags came to the hospital
after a week with a horrible hand and showing
clear symptoms of lockjaw. They washed his
hand and sent him home to die. In three days he
was about without a sign of lockjaw. A man
whose fingers had been crushed under a cart some
36 THE CHANGING CHINESE
days before came in with blood-poisoning all up
Ms arm and in the glands under the arm. The
trouble vanished under simple treatment. A pa-
tient will be brought in with a high fever from a
wound of several days ' standing full of maggots ;
yet after the wound is cleansed the fever quickly
subsides. A woman who had undergone a serious
operation for cancer of the breast suffered infec-
tion and had a fever of 106° during which her
husband fed her with hard water chestnuts. Nev-
ertheless, she recovered.
Nearly all are struck by the resistance of the
Chinese to blood-poisoning. From my note books
I gather such expressions as, "Blood-poisoning
very rare; more resistant than we are to septi-
caemia"; "Belative immunity to pus-producing
germs"; "More resistant to gangrene than we
are; injuries which at home would cause serious
gangrene do not do so here"; "Peculiarly resist-
ant to infection"; "With badly gangrened wounds
in the extremities show very little fever and
quickly get well"; "Women withstand septicaemia
in maternity cases wonderfully well, recovering
after the doctors have given them up " ; " Eecover
from septicaemia after a week of high fever that
would kill a white man." No wonder there is a
saying rife among the foreign doctors, "Don't
give up a Chinaman till he's dead."
In the South, where foot binding is not preva-
lent, the women bear their children very easily,
with little outcry, and are expected to be up in a
day or two. Dr. Swan of Canton relates that
A Canton water-front crowd
Station platform faces
THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 39
more than once on calling for a sampan to take
him across the river he has been asked to wait a
quarter or a half an hour. By that time the mis-
tress of the boat would have given birth to a
child, laid it in a corner among some rags, and be
ready to row him across! In childbirth the
woman attended by a dirty old midwife in a filthy
hovel escapes puerperal fever under conditions
that would certainly kill a white woman. In cases
of difficult birth, when after a couple of days the
white physician is called in and removes the dead
infant, the woman has some fever but soon re-
covers. The women, moreover, are remarkably
free from displacements and other troubles pecul-
iar to the sex.
Living in a supersaturated, man-stifled land,
profoundly ignorant of the principles of hygiene,
the masses have developed an immunity to noxious
microbes which excites the wonder and envy of
the foreigner. They are not affected by a mos-
quito bite that will raise a large lump on the lately-
come foreigner. They can use contaminated
water from canals without incurring dysentery.
There is very little typhoid and what there is
occurs in such mild form that it was long doubted
to be typhoid. The fact was settled affirmatively
only by laboratory tests. All physicians agree
that among the Chinese smallpox is a mild dis-
ease. One likened it to the mumps. Organic
heart trouble, usually the result of rheumatic
fever, is declared to be very rare.
It is universally remarked that in taking chloro-
40 THE CHANGING CHINESE
form the Chinese rarely pass through an excited
stage, but go off very quietly. From after-nausea
they are almost wholly free. One physician of
twenty-five years' practice has never had a death
from chloroform, although he has not administered
ether half a dozen times. The fact is, however,
they stolidly endure operations which we would
never perform without anesthetics. Small tumors
are usually thus removed and, in extracting teeth,
gas is never administered. Sometimes extensive
cutting, e. g., the removal of a tumor reaching
down into and involving the excision of the de-
cayed end of a rib, is borne without flinching.
Only three physicians interviewed failed to re-
mark the insensibility of their patients to pain.
Here, perhaps, is the reason why no people in the
world have used torture so freely as the Chinese.
This bluntness of nerve, however, does not appear
to be universal. The scholars, who usually neg-
lect to balance their intense brain work with due
physical exercise, are not stoical. The meat-eat-
ing and wine-bibbing classes lack the insensibility
of the vegetarian, non-alcoholic masses. The
self-indulgent gentry, who shun all activity, bodily
or mental, and give themselves up to sensual grati-
fication, are very sensitive to pain and very fear-
ful of it. Some make the point, therefore, that the
oft-noted dullness of sensibility is not a race trait,
but a consequence of the involuntary simplicity
and temperateness of life of the common Chinese.
One doctor remarks that at home it is the reg-
ular thing for a nervous chill to follow the pass-
THE EACE FIBEE OF THE CHINESE 41
ing of a sound into the bladder, whereas among
his patients it seldom occurs. Another co mm ents
on the rarity of neurasthenia and nervous dys-
pepsia. The chief of the army medical staff
points out that during the autumn manceuvers the
soldiers sleep on damp ground with a little straw
under them without any ill effects. I have seen
coolies after two hours of burden-bearing at a dog
trot shovel themselves full of hot rice with scarcely
any mastication, and hurry on for another two
hours. A white man would have writhed with
indigestion. The Chinese seem able to sleep in
any position. I have seen them sleeping on piles
of bricks, or stones, or poles, with a block or a
brick for a pillow, and with the hot sun shining
full into the face. They stand a cramped position
longer than we can and can keep on longer at
monotonous toil unrelieved by change or break.
But there is another side to the comparison.
There is little pneumonia among the Chinese but
they stand it no better than we do ; some say not
so well. There is much malarial fever and it goes
hard with them. In Hong Kong they seem to suc-
cumb to the plague more readily than the foreign-
ers. Among children there is heavy mortality
from measles and scarlet fever. In withstanding
tuberculosis they have no advantage over us.
While they make wonderful recoveries from high
fevers they are not enduring of long fevers. Some
think this is because the flame of their vitality
has been turned low by unsanitary living. They
have a horror of fresh air and shut it out of the
42 THE CHANGING CHINESE
sleeping apartment, even on a warm night. In
the mission schools, if the teachers insist on open
windows in the dormitory, the pupils stifle under
the covers lest the evil spirits flying about at night
should get at them. The Chinese grant that
hygiene may be all very well for these weakly
foreigners, but see no use in it for themselves.
It is no wonder, therefore, that their schoolgirls
cannot stand the pace of American schoolgirls.
Often they break down, or go into a decline, or
have to take a long rest. In the English mission
schools with their easier pace the girls get on
better.
Here and there a doctor ascribes the extraordi-
nary power of resistance and recuperation shown
by his patients entirely to their diet and manner
of life and denies any superior vitality in the race.
Other doctors practicing among the city Chinese
insist that the stamina of the masses is under-
mined by wretched living conditions, but that
under equal circumstances the yellow man has a
firmer hold on life than the white man.
From the testimony it is safe to conclude that
at least a part of the observed toughness of the
Chinese is attributable to a special race vitality
which they have acquired in the course of a longer
and severer elimination of the less fit than our
North-European ancestors ever experienced in
their civilized state. Such selection has tended to
foster not so much bodily strength or energy as
recuperative power, resistance to infection and
The river stairs up which all the water
for Chungking is borne
THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 45
tolerance of unwholesome conditions of living.
For many centuries the people of South and Cen-
tral China, crowded together in their villages or
walled cities, have used water from contaminated
canals or from the drainings of the rice fields;
eaten of the scavenging pig or of vegetables stim-
ulated by the contents of the cesspool; huddled
under low roofs on dirt floors in filthy lanes, and
slept in fetid dens and stifling cubicles. Myriads
succumbed to the poisons generated by overcrowd-
ing, and hardly a quarter of those born lived to
transmit their immunity to their children. The
surviving fittest has been the type able to with-
stand foul air, stench, fatigue toxin, dampness,
bad food, and noxious germs. I have no doubt
that if an American population of equal size lived
in Amoy or Soochow as the Chinese there live, a
quarter would be dead by the end of the first sum-
mer. But the toughening takes place to the detri-
ment of bodily growth and strength. Chinese
children are small for their age. At birth the
infants are no stronger than ours. The weaker
are more thoroughly weeded out, but even the
surviving remnant is for a time weakened by the
hardships that have killed the rest.
I would not identify the great vitality of the
Chinese with the primitive vitality you find in
Bedouins, or Sea Dyaks, or American Indians.
This early endowment consists in unusual mus-
cular strength and endurance, in normality of
bodily functions, and in power to bear hardship
and exposure. It does not extend to immunity
46 THE CHANGING CHINESE
from disease. Subjected to the conditions the
civilized man lives under, savages die off like
tlies. Peary's Eskimos could survive a fetid
Greenland igloo but not an airy New York board-
ing- bouse. The diseases that the colonizing Euro-
pean communicates to natural men clears them
away more swiftly than his gunpowder. Entrance
upon the civilized state entails a universal ex-
change of disease germs and the necessary growth
of immunity. Now, it is precisely in his power
to withstand the poisons with which close-dwellers
infect one another that the Chinaman is unique.
This power does not seem to be a heritage from
his nomad life o( five or six thousand years ago.
It is rather the painful acquisition o( a later social
phase. It could have grown up only in congested
cities, or under an agriculture that contaminates
every growing plant, converts every stream into
an open sewer, and tills the land with mosquito-
breeding rice fields. Such toleration of pathogenic
microbes has, perhaps, never before been devel-
oped and it certainly will never be developed
again. Now that man knows how to clear away
from his path these invisible enemies, he will never
consent to buy immunity at the old cruel price.
To the AVest the toughness of the Chinese
physique may have a sinister military significance.
Nobody fears lest in a stand-up fight Chinese
troops could whip an equal number of well-condi-
tioned white troops. But few battles are fought
by men fresh from tent and mess. In the course
of a prolonged campaign involving irregular pro-
THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 47
visioning, bad drinking water, lying out, loss of
sleep, exhausting marches, exposure, excitement
and anxiety, it may be that the white soldiers
would be worn down worse than the yellow sol-
diers. In that case the hardier men with less
of the martial spirit might in the closing
grapple beat the better fighters with the less en-
durance.
In view of what has been shown, the competi-
tion of white laborer and yellow is not so simple
a test of human worth as some may imagine.
Under good conditions the white man can best
the yellow man in turning off work. But under
bad conditions the yellow man can best the white
man because he can better endure spoiled food,
poor clothing, foul air, noise, heat, dirt, discom-
fort and microbes. Reilly can outdo Ah San, but
Ah San can underlive Reilly. Ah San cannot
take away Reilly 's job as being a better work-
man; but, because he can live and do some work
at a wage on which Reilly cannot keep himself
fit to work at all, three or four Ah Sans can take
Reilly 's job from him. And they will do it, too,
unless they are barred out of the market where
Reilly is selling his labor. Reilly 's endeavor to
exclude Ah San from his labor market is not the
case of a man dreading to pit himself on equal
terms against a better man. Indeed, it is not
quite so simple and selfish and narrow-minded as
all that.
It is a case of a man fitted to get the most
out of good conditions refusing to yield his place
48 THE CHANGING CHINESE
to a iveaker man able to withstand bad condi-
tions.
* Of course, with the coming in of Western sani-
tation, the terrible selective process by which
Chinese toughness has been built up will come to
an end, and this property will gradually fade out
of the race physique. But for our time at least
it is a serious and pregnant fact. It will take
some generations of exposure to the relaxing
effects of drains, ventilation, doctors, district
nurses, food inspectors, pure water, open spaces
and out-of-door sports to eradicate the peculiar
vitality which the yellow race has acquired. Dur-
ing the interim the chief effect of freely admitting
coolies to the labor markets of the West would
be the substitution of low wages, bad living con-
ditions and the increase of the yellow race for
high wages, good living conditions and the in-
crease of the white race.
Scene in the Imperial City, Peking-
Hovel on beach at Kiukiang. Over the door
the character for "happiness"
CHAPTER III
THE BACE MIND OP THE CHINESE
THE more cheaply gotten-up races of men have
a short mental circuit and respond promptly
to stimulus. Knowing the impulses aroused in
them by their experiences you can foretell their
actions. They cannot inhibit their impulses and
let them accumulate until reflection has fused them
into a conscious purpose. But the races of the
higher destiny are not so easily set in motion.
They are able to hold back and digest their im-
pulses. The key to their conduct is to be found,
not in their impressions, but in their thoughts and
convictions. Their course is to be interpreted
not by their impulses but by their purposes. Their
intellect is a massive fly-wheel by means of which
continuous will power is derived from confused
and intermittent stimuli. The man of this type
does not act till he has made up his mind and he
does not make up his mind till he has heard both
sides. His emotion is not as the crackling of dry
thorns under a pot, but like the lasting glow that
will smelt iron. He obeys not his promptings, but
his decisions. His conduct is not fitful and zigzag,
but even and consistent. More and more this
steady and reliable type is demanded in a social
organization so complex that normal action must
3 51
52 THE CHANGING CHINESE
be deliberate and in a civilization so scientific that
pondered knowledge is essential to wise decis-
ion.
We like to think of the Anglo-Saxons as of this
stable type and feel that snch an endowment makes
up to our race for its lack of the quick mobile feel-
ing, the social tact and the sensitiveness to beauty
so characteristic of South Europeans. Now, of
this massive unswerving type are the Chinese.
Fiery or headlong action is the last thing to be
expected of yellow men. They command their
feelings and know how to bide their time. They
are not hot to-day, cold to-morrow. Hard are they
to move, but once in motion they have momentum.
Slow are they to promise, but once they have
promised for a consideration they "stick." They
are stubborn to convert but they make staunch
converts. Their eloquence is more akin to the
eloquence of Pitt or Bright than to that of O'Con-
nell or Gambetta. One does not term suicide a
"rash act" in a land where so many suicides are
carried out of set purpose. Instead of assassi-
nating the high-placed betrayer of his country,
the Chinese patriot sends his Emperor a plain-
spoken memorial about the traitor and then kills
himself to show he is in earnest. No matter what
their intensity of feeling, the members of the pro-
vincial assemblies that met for the first time two
years ago kept themselves in hand and surprised
the world by their self-restraint and decorum.
Some observations made by a gentleman writing
life insurance in Hawaii throw a strong light on
THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 53
Chinese traits. He found the Japanese impres-
sible and easy to persuade, especially if he
learns that other Japanese are taking out poli-
cies. Tell him his friend So-and-So has insured
and he promptly orders a bigger policy. But
when a month later the policy arrives from the
New York office his interest has cooled and he
will never take it unless he was required to make
an advance payment. On the other hand, the
Chinaman can be neither cajoled nor stampeded.
He takes a sample policy home, studies it over
night, and is ready next day with his answer. If it
is "Yes," he invariably refuses to make an ad-
vance payment on the ground that, as yet, he has
received nothing of value. When the policy
arrives he receipts for it, takes it home, and com-
pares it line by line with the sample policy. The
next day he is always ready with the premium.
I introduce this comparison not to discredit the
Japanese, for their gifts are well known, but to
bring out the deliberate unimpressible character
of the Chinese.
Chinese conservatism, unlike the conservatism
of the lower races, is not merely an emotional atti-
tude. It is not inspired chiefly by dread of the
unknown, horror of the new, or a fanatical attach-
ment to a system of ideas which gives them confi-
dence in the established. It is the logical outcome
of precedent. Change the ideas of the Chinese
and their policy will , change. Let their minds
be possessed by a philosophy that makes them
doubt the past and have confidence in the future,
54 THE CHANGING CHINESE
and they will prove to be as consistently pro-
gressive as are the Germans of to-day.
The Nestor of the missionaries, Doctor Martin
of Peking, after his sixty years of labor in the
Orient, believes that the modern Chinese have
somehow lost the originality and inventiveness
their forefathers possessed in the great days of
old when the civilization of the Middle Kingdom
was still in the gristle. He surmises that this
precious endowment was wasted by the continued
use of the memory-taxing ideographic language or
by a cram system of education shaped with refer-
ence to passing competitive examinations. To
those of us who question the atrophy of a race
quality through disuse, and doubt if any amount
of sterilizing education can quench the originality
of a race beyond the generation submitted to it,
it seems more likely that the contemporary
Chinese intellect is sterile because of the state of
the social mind.
It is true that the culture development of the
Chinese ceased at stages no more difficult to nego-
tiate than the earlier stages. In painting they
never mastered perspective. In music they never
achieved harmony. Their language is lacking in
relative pronouns and other words indicating the
relation of statements to one another. Their
writing is arrested at the level of ancient Baby-
lonia and Egypt. For many centuries, however,
their psychological climate has been unfavorable
to innovating thought. As well expect the apple
tree to blossom in October as expect genius to
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THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 57
bloom among a people convinced that the perfec-
tion of wisdom had been granted to the sages of
antiquity. Before he has fairly begun to bring
forth, the fresh thinker has been discouraged and
intimidated by the leaden weight of conservative
opinion about him. In a word, the social atmos-
phere has become oppressive, lacking the stimu-
lating oxygen it had in the distant days when the
Chinese invented gunpowder, block printing, bank-
notes, porcelain, the compass, the compartment
boat and the taxicab.
The patent stagnation of the collective mind is
due not to native sluggishness but to prepossession
by certain beliefs. These beliefs are tenaciously
held because in their practical outworkings they
have been successful. Under them vast popula-
tions have been able to attain order, security and
a goodly measure of happiness. Moreover, as
these beliefs have expanded their circle of influ-
ence, they have never — until lately — encountered
any system of ideas that could withstand them.
Chinese culture has spread and spread until all
Eastern Asia bows to it. Nestorian Christianity
flourished there and vanished. The Jews of
Kaifeng-fu lost their language and religion and
became Chinese in all but physiognomy. The
conquering Manchus have forgotten their language
and literature. "China," it has been finely said,
"is a sea which salts everything that flows into
it." The guardians of a culture so vanquishing
may well be pardoned for regarding as presump-
tuous any endeavor to improve on it.
58 THE CHANGING CHINESE
For centuries the Chinese have found themselves
in the situation our descendants will perhaps find
themselves in when, half a thousand years hence,
they are enfolded in the colossal body of a single
self -consistent planetary culture; when scientific
research shall have long been subject to the law
of diminishing returns; when nothing but a thin
rill of trifling discoveries will trickle from the
splendid laboratories; when the proceedings of
scientific congresses will be as trivial as the dis-
cussions of the Church Councils of the seventh cen-
tury; when the elite of the human race will have
forgotten the thrill from such fructifying new
truths as our generation has enjoyed in the dis-
covery of radioactivity, the germ origin of disease,
natural selection, mutation, and mental suggesti-
bility. Then, perhaps, without any abatement of
its powers, the intellect of our race may develop
such unshakable faith in the soundness and suffi-
ciency of its system of scientific knowledge and
thought, that nothing but intercourse with the
Martians will be able to release it from the numb-
ing grasp of the established and arouse it to fresh
conquests.
It is rash, therefore, to take the observed ster-
ility of the Celestial mind during the period of
intercourse with the West as proof of race defi-
ciency. Chinese culture is undergoing a break-
ing-up process which will release powerful indi-
vidualities from the spell of the past and of
numbers, and stimulate them to high personal
achievement. In the Malay States, where the
Altar, Temple of Heaven, Peking-
View in the Temple grounds of the Ming
Tombs. Mountains near Peking
THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 61
Chinese escape the lifeless atmosphere and the
confining social organization of their own land,
their ingenuity is already such that unprejudiced
white men have come to regard them as our intel-
lectual peers. Civil engineers will tell you that in
a score or two of years, after bright Chinese youth
have had access to schools of technology equal to
those of the West, there will be no place in the
engineering and technical work of the Far East
for the high-priced white expert. In Shanghai,
too, the clever Chinese are learning to play the
game. I am told they are rapidly getting into
their hands, banking, coast-wise navigation, the
cotton trade and other branches by which the for-
eigners there make their money; indeed, some
deem it only a matter of time when white men will
be unable to make a living by trade on the Chinese
coast, having been frozen out there as they are
being frozen out in Japan.
To forty-three men who, as educators, mission-
aries and diplomats, have had good opportunity to
learn the "feel" of the Chinese mind, I put the
question, ' ' Do you find the intellectual capacity of
the yellow race equal to that of the white race?"
All but five answered "Yes," and one sinologue
of varied experience as missionary, university
president and legation adviser left me gasping
with the statement, "Most of us who have spent
twenty-five years or more out here come to feel
that the yellow race is the normal human type,
while the white race is a 'sport.' " The trend of
opinion is that when the Chinese have become
62 THE CHANGING CHINESE
equipped with the Western arts and sciences they
will match us in intellectual performance, although
some think that the gap in ability between the
masses and the higher classes is much wider than
it is in the West.
It is significant that superior white men of long
residence in the Middle Kingdom often become
too Chinese in point of view to be of much service
to their governments. Sir Robert Hart was com-
plained of as virtually a Chinaman. Many of the
consular veterans in the China service are said to
champion the Chinese way of looking at things
as against the Western. It seems that, little by
little, the civilization of the East invades, disarms
and takes possession of them. In the finer
Chinese they discover an outlook more compre-
hensive than their own, a broader tolerance, and a
philosophic patience that makes mock of the
eager, impetuous West.
The heart of the case seems to be this :
Since the discovery of America the West-Euro-
pean whites have overrun the West Indies, the
Americas, Australia, Africa, the islands of the
Sea and Southern Asia, while their East-European
brethren have occupied Northwestern and North-
ern Asia. During this expansion the whites have
encountered hundreds of races and peoples before
unknown to them; but in all this time they have
never met a race that could successfully dispute
their military superiority, contribute to their
civilization, or dispense with their direction in
political or industrial organization. Now, after
THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 63
three centuries of such experience, during which
the white man has grown accustomed to regarding
himself as the undisputed sovereign of the planet,
he makes the acquaintance of peoples in Eastern
Asia who are, perhaps, as capable as the whites
and who threaten to spread into areas he had
staked off for himself. In any case it begins to
appear that the future bearers and advancers of
civilization will be, not the whites alone, but the
white and the yellow races ; and the control of the
globe will lie in the hands of two races instead of
one.
Practically all foreigners in China who are cap-
able of sympathy with another race become warm
friends of the Chinese. They are not attracted,
as in the case of the Japanese, by charm of man-
ner or delicacy of sentiment or beauty of art, but
by the solid human qualities of the folk. The fact
is, the Chinese are extremely likable and those
who have known them longest like them best. Al-
most invariably those who harshly disparage them
are people who are coarse or narrow or bigoted.
They are not a sour or sullen folk. Smile at
them and back comes a look that puts you on a
footing of mutual understanding. Their lively
sense of humor is a bond that unites them to the
foreigner. One lone traveler at a critical moment
in a Chinese street seized the ringleader of the
mob and tied him by his queue to a door-post. The
crowd howled with laughter, while the traveler
slipped away. Another foreigner of unusual
64 THE CHANGING CHINESE
stature found he could always get on good terms
with a crowd by flinging out his arm over the head
of the nearest native. The bystanders grinned at
the contrast and their good nature asserted itself.
Horrible deeds have been wrought by Chinese
mobs, but not one whit worse than the atrocities
committed by mobs of our ancestors in the Middle
Ages. In view of their ignorance and supersti-
tion, indeed, the Chinese masses are on a level with
our forefathers in the days of witchcraft, Jew-
baiting, the dancing-mania, and the flagellants.
In view of their limited schooling, one marvels at
the diffusion among them of a politeness without
a taint of servility. For all their illiteracy, the
common people keenly appreciate good form ; and
the traveler who approaches them with the man-
ners they understand finds few too ignorant or too
uncouth to meet him half way.
Nothing is more creditable to the domestic
organization of the Chinese than the attractive
old people it produces. The old women, it is true,
are not so frequently a success as the old men.
The years of pain from their bound feet and the
crosses they have had to bear as women too often
sour the temper, and kindly-faced grannies seem
by no means so common as with us. The natural
result of steadily giving one sex the worst of it
is a distressing crop of village shrews. On the
other hand, I have never seen old faces more
dignified, serene and benevolent than I have met
with among elderly Chinese farmers. Often it
seems as if the soul behind the countenance, purged
THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 65
of every selfish thought, had come to dwell wholly
in the welfare of others. The rights of the parent
are such that every man with grandsons is prac-
tically endowed with an old age pension. Hence
you notice more smooth brows, calm eyes and care-
free faces among old Chinese farmers than among
old American farmers.
In general I hold Western individualism supe-
rior, for both individual and social advancement,
to Chinese f amilism. I rejoice that with us a man
is free to decide, to act, to rise without being ham-
pered by a host of relatives. I am glad that he
is legally responsible only for his own misdeeds,
never for the misdeeds of his kinsman. Still, I
believe we have gone too far in emancipating
grown children from obligations to their parents.
Too often among us old age is clouded up by the
depressing sense of being shelved and being a
burden. Chinese ethics gives the parent more
rights and lays upon the sons more duties. Com-
ing on the up-curve of life the duties are easy to
bear, while, coming on the down-curve of life, the
corresponding rights are a real solace. In a word,
the added happiness to the old folks far outweighs
the inconvenience to the sons. It is not easy to
sweeten and brighten old age, and the success of
the Chinese ought to inspire in us a doubt about
our practical family ethics.
The high capacity of the sons of Han is no
guarantee that they are destined to play a bril-
liant role in the near future. Misunderstanding
66 THE CHANGING CHINESE
the true causes of our. success their naive intel-
lectuals who have traveled or studied abroad often
imagine that a wholesale adoption of Western
methods and institutions would, almost at once,
lift their countrymen to the plane of wealth, power
and popular intelligence occupied by the leading
peoples of the "West. Now, the fact is that if by
the waving of a wand all Chinese could be turned
into eager progressives willing to borrow every
good thing, it would still be long before the indi-
vidual Chinaman attained the efficiency, comfort
and social and political value of the West-Euro-
pean or American. For there is no doubt that
the foundations of our advancement are more
economic than we think, and that we attribute to
our institutions much prosperity that is really due
to the fewness of our people in relation to the
economic opportunities. Conversely, much of the
backwardness and misery in China that we charge
to the shortcomings of its civilization and insti-
tutions is due simply to too many people trying
to live from a given area.
If this is so, it is idle to expect Chinese society
to take on the general appearance of Western
society until there has occurred a far-reaching
readjustment between population and opportuni-
ties. On the one hand, the Chinese will have to
build railroads, open mines, sink petroleum wells,
harness water-power, erect mills, adopt machin-
ery, reforest their mountains, construct irrigation
works, introduce better breeds of domestic animals
and plants, and apply science to the production of
X
THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 69
food. All this economic leveling up to onr plane,
however, would not in the least improve the qual-
ity of Chinese life, if the increase of population
promptly took up all the slack, as it certainly
would do under the present social regime. At the
end of the process there would be nothing to show
for it all but twice as many Chinese, no better, no
wiser, no happier than before. It is equally neces-
sary, therefore, for the Chinese to slacken their
multiplication by dropping ancestor worship, dis-
solving the clan, educating girls, elevating woman,
postponing marriage, introducing compulsory edu-
cation, restricting child-labor and otherwise indi-
vidualizing the members of the family. All this
will take time ; and even if the Chinese should be
so fortunate as to experience a smooth continuous
social development, unbroken by reaction, foreign
domination, or civil convulsion, it will be at best
a couple of lifetimes before the plane of existence
of their common people will at all approximate
that of the common people in America.
CHAPTER IV
THE STBUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE IN CHINA
IN China to-day one may observe a state of so-
ciety the like of which has not been seen in the
West since the Middle Ages, and which will prob-
ably never recur on this planet. For many genera-
tions the Chinese, loath to abandon to the careless
plow of the stranger the graves that dot the ances-
tral fields and reluctant to exile themselves from
the lighted circle of civilization into the twilight of
barbarism, have stayed at home multiplying until
reproduction and destruction have struck a balance
and society has entered upon the stationary stage.
To Americans, who have had the good fortune to
develop their life and standards in the cheerful
presence of unlimited free land, the life and stand-
ards of a people that for centuries have been
crowding upon the subsistence possibilities of their
environment cannot but seem strange and
eccentric.
The most arresting feature of Chinese life is
the ruthless way in which the available natural
resources have been made to minister to man's
lower needs. It is true that childish superstitions
have held back the Chinese from freely exploiting
their mineral treasures. It is also true that from
five to ten per cent., in some cases even twenty
' ' 70
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 71
per cent,, of the farms is given up to the grave-
mounds of ancestors. But, aside from these
cases, the earth is utilized as perhaps it never has
been elsewhere. Little land lies waste in high-
ways. Throughout the rice zone the roads are
mere footpaths, one to three feet wide, yet the
greedy farmers nibble away at the roads on both
sides until the undermined paving-stones tilt and
sink dismally into the paddy-fields. Pasture or
meadow there is none, for land is too precious to
be used in growing food for animals. Even on the
boulder-strewn steeps there is no grazing save for
goats ; for where a cow can crop herbage a man
can grow a hill of corn. The cows and the water-
buffaloes never taste grass except when they are
taken out on a tether by an old granny and allowed
to browse by the roadside and the ditches, or along
the terraces of the rice fields.
The traveler who in dismay at stories of the
dirt, vermin and stenches of native inns plans to
camp in the cleanly open is incredulous when he is
told that there is no room to pitch a tent. Yet
such is the case in two-thirds of China. He will
find no roadside, no commons, no waste land, no
pasture, no groves nor orchards, not even a door-
yard or a cow-pen. Save the threshing-floor every
outdoor spot fit to spread a blanket on is growing
something. But, if he will pay, he may pitch his
tent in a submerged rice-field, in the midst of a
bean-patch, or among the hills of sweet potatoes !
In one sense it is true that China is cultivated
"like a garden," for every lump is broken up,
72 THE CHANGING CHINESE
every weed is destroyed, and every plant is tended
like a baby. As one crop approaches maturity
another is made ready, the new crop often being
planted between the rows of the crop that is not
yet gathered. So far, however, as the word
"garden" calls up visions of beauty and delight,
it does not apply. In county after county you will
not see altogether a rood of land reserved for
recreation or pleasure. No village green, no
lawns, no flower-beds nor ornamental shrubbery,
no parks, and very few shade trees. Aside from
the groves about the temples, the trees that relieve
the landscape are grown for use and not for orna-
ment. To be sure, there are men of fortune in
inner China, but they are relatively very few. I
doubt, indeed, if one family in two thousand boasts
a garden with its fern-crowned rockery and its
lotus pond overhung by drooping willows and
feathery bamboos. One is struck, too, with the
rarity of grape-arbors, vineyards, orchards, and
orange groves. In the country markets one sees
mountains of vegetables, but only a few paltry
baskets of flavorless fruit. The demand for lux-
uries that appeal to the palate is too slight, the
call for sustaining food is too imperious, to with-
draw much land from its main business, which is
to grow rice and beans and wheat and garlic to
keep the people alive.
To win new plots for tillage human sweat has
been poured out like water. Clear to the top the
foothills have been carved into terraced fields.
On a single slope I counted forty-seven such fields
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 73
running up like the steps of a Brobdingnagian
staircase. And the river-bed five hundred feet
below, between the thin streams that wander over
it until the autumn rains cover it with a turbid
flood, has been smoothed and diked into hundreds
of gemlike paddy-fields green with the young-
rice. In the mountains, where the mantle of
brown soil covering the rocks is too thin to be
sculptured into level fields, the patches of wheat
and corn follow the natural slope and the hoe must
be used instead of the plow. Two such plots have
I seen at a measured angle of forty-five degrees,
and any number tilted at least forty degrees from
the horizontal. From their huts near the wooded
top of the range half a mile above you men clam-
ber down and cultivate Lilliputian patches of earth
lodged in pockets among the black naked rocks.
Of course the wash from these deforested and
tilled mountain flanks is appalling. A thousand
feet below, the Heilung, the Han, or the Kialing,
slate-hued or tawny when it should be emerald,
prophesies of the time when all this exposed soil
will be useless bars in the river, and the mountain
will lie stripped of the fertile elements slowly ac-
cumulated through geologic time. Indeed one
hears with a shudder of districts where the thing
has run its course to the bitter end. Mountains
dry gray skeletons ; the rich valley bottoms buried
under silt and gravel ; the population dwindled to
one family in four square miles !
Nowhere can the watcher of man's struggle
with his environment find a more wonderful
4
74 THE CHANGING CHINESE
spectacle than meets the eye from a certain seven-
thousand-foot pass amid the great tangle of
mountains in West China that gives birth to the
Han, the Wei, and the rivers that make famed
Szechuan the "Four-river province." Save
where steepness or rock-outcropping forbids, the
slopes are cultivated from the floor of the Tung
Ho Valley right up to the summits five thousand
feet above. In this vertical mile there are dif-
ferent crops for different altitudes — vegetables
below, then corn, lastly wheat. Sometimes the
very apex of the mountain wears a green peaked
cap of rye. The aerial farms are crumpled into
the great folds of the mountains and their borders
follow with a poetic grace the outthrust or in-
curve of the slopes. In this colossal amphi-
theater one beholds a thousand fields but only
two houses. Here and there, however, one de-
tects in a distant yellow bank a row of dark,
arched openings like gopher holes. It is a rural
village, for most of these highlanders carve their
habitations out of the dry tenacious loess.
The heart-breaking labor of redeeming and
tilling these upper slopes that require a climb of
some thousands of feet from one's cave home is
a sure sign of population pressure. It calls up
the picture of a swelling human lake, somehow
without egress from the valley, rising and rising
until it fairly lifts cultivation over the summits of
the mountains. In June these circling tiers of
verdant undulating sky-farms are an impressive,
even a beautiful sight ; yet one cannot help think-
Cave dwelling of a coal miner
Perfected tillage of the valley of an affluent
of the Wei River
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 77
ing of the grim, ever-present menace of hunger
which alone could have forced people to such
prodigies of toil.
Eice will thrive only under a thin sheet of
water. A rice field must, therefore, be level and
enclosed by a low dyke. Where the climate is
friendly the amount of labor that will be spent in
digging a slope into rice-fields and carrying a
stream to them is beyond belief. In one case I
noticed how a deep-notched rocky ravine in the
flank of a rugged mountain had been completely
transformed. The peasants had brought down
countless basketfuls of soil from certain pockets
at the foot of the cliffs. With this they had filled
the bottom of the V, floated it into a series of
levels, banked them, set them out with rice and
led the water over them. So that now instead of
a barren gulch there is a staircase of curving
fields, perhaps four rods wide and differing in
level by the height of a man. I have also seen
the sides of a gully in which a child could not stand
undiscovered cut into shelves for making a string
of rice plots no larger than a table-cloth, irrigated
by a trickle no bigger than a baby's finger. One
of these toy plots, duly banked and set out with
nineteen rice plants at the regulation eight inches,
could be covered by a dinner napkin !
Were it not for an agriculture of infinite pains-
taking, the fertility of the soil would have been
spent ages ago. In a low-lying region like
Kiangsu, for example, the farmer digs an oblong
settling basin into which every part of his farm
78 THE CHANGING CHINESE
drains. In the spring from its bottom lie scoops
for fertilizer the rich muck washed from his fields.
It is true the overflow from this pond carries away
some precious elements, but these he recovers by-
dredging the private canal that connects him with
the main artery of the district. In the loess belt
of North China the farmer simply digs a pit in
the midst of his field and scatters the yellow earth
from it as a manure. A Chinese city has no
sewers nor does it greatly need them. Long be-
fore sunrise tank-boats from the farms have crept
through the city by a network of canals, and by
the time the foreigner has finished his morning
coffee a legion of scavengers has collected for the
encouragement of the crops that which we cast
into our sewers. After a rain countrymen with
buckets prowl about the streets scooping black
mud out of hollows and gutters or dipping liquid
filth from the wayside sinks. A highway trav-
ersed by two hundred carts a day is as free from
filth as a garden path, for the neighboring
farmers patrol it constantly with basket and rake.
No natural resource is too trifling to be turned
to account by a teeming population. The sea is
raked and strained for edible plunder. Sea-
weed and kelp have a place in the larder. Great
quantities of shell-fish no bigger than one's finger-
nail are opened and made to yield a food that finds
its way far inland. The fungus that springs up
in the grass after a rain is eaten. Fried sweet
potato vines furnish the poor man's table. The
roadside ditches are bailed out for the sake of
THE STEUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE 79
fishes no longer than one's finger. Great pan-
niers of strawberries, half of them still green,
are collected in the mountain ravines and offered
in the markets. No weed nor stalk escapes the
bamboo rake of the autumnal fuel gatherer.
The sickle reaps the grain close to the ground,
for straw and chaff are needed to burn un-
der the rice kettle. The leaves of the trees
are a crop to be carefully gathered by the chil-
dren. One never sees a rotting stump or a molder-
ing log. Bundles of brush carried miles on the hu-
man back heat the brick kiln and the potter's
furnace. After the last trees have been taken,
the far and forbidding heights are scaled by lads
with ax and mattock to cut down or dig up the
seedlings that would, if left alone, reclothe the
devastated ridges. We asked a Szechuanese if
he did not admire a certain craggy peak with
gnarled pines clinging to it. "No," he replied,
"how can it be beautiful when it is so steep that
we cannot get at the trees to cut them down?"
Such facts helped me understand why a match
from the native factories at Taiyuanfu and
Sianfu has in it perhaps a third as much wood as
one of our matches.
The cuisine of China is one of the toothsome
cuisines of the world ; but for the common people
the stomach and not the palate decides what shall
be food. The silkworms are eaten after the
cocoon has been unwound from them. After
their work is done horses, donkeys, mules, and
camels become butcher's meat. The cow or pig
80 THE CHANGING CHINESE
that has died a natural death is not disdained.
A missionary who had always let his cook dispose
of a dead calf noticed that his calves always died.
Finally he saturated the carcass of the calf with
carbolic acid and made the cook bury it. There-
after his calves lived. In Canton rats and cats
are exposed for sale. Our boatmen cleaned and
ate the head, feet, and entrails of the fowls used
by our cook. Scenting a possible opening for a
tannery, the Governor of Hong Kong once set on
foot an inquiry as to what becomes of the skins
of the innumerable pigs slaughtered in the colony.
He learned that they are all made up as "marine
delicacy" and sold among the Chinese. Another
time he was on the point of ordering the extermi^
nation of the mangy curs that infest the villages
in the Kowloon district because they harassed
the Sikh policemen in the performance of their
duties. He found just in time that such an act
would "interfere with the food of the people,"
something a British colonial governor must never
do.
Though the farmer thriftily combs his harvest
field, every foot of the short stubble is gone over
again by poor women and children, who are con-
tent if in a day's gleaning they can gather a
handful of wheat heads to keep them alive the
morrow. On the Hong Kong water front the path
of the coolies carrying produce between ware-
house and junk is lined with tattered women,
most of them with a baby on the back. Where
bags of beans or rice are in transit a dozen wait
Junk on the Yangtse
Fishing with cormorants
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 83
with basket and brush to sweep up the grains
dropped from the sacks. On a wharf where crude
sugar is being repacked squat sixty women scrap-
ing the inside of the discarded sacks, while others
run by the bearer, if his sack leaks a little, to
catch the particles as they fall. Where sugar is
being unloaded, a mob of gleaners swarm upon
the lighter the moment the last sack leaves and
eagerly scrape from the gang-plank and the deck
the sugar mixed with dirt that for two hours has
been trampled into a muck by the bare feet of
two score coolies trotting back and forth across
a dusty road !
The pilferings one hears of are hardly less
significant than are the gleanings. The Peking-
Hankow Railway complains of the nightly theft
of ringbolts and plates; no fewer than 60,000
bolts a month and 10,000 plates per annum dis-
appear, to be made into razors and scissors, hoes
and ploughshares. The cook will extract half its
strength from soup meat and then sell it through
his window to an itinerant food vender. From
the daily drawing of tea given him he will ab-
stract a few leaves and hide them. When he has
accumulated a pound he will get the dealer to de-
liver this pound and give him part of the money
his mistress pays for the stolen pound. Even
the old hair that hangs in tatters from the camels
when they are changing their coat is subject to
theft.
Haunted by the fear of starving, men spend
themselves recklessly for the sake of a wage. It
84 THE CHANGING CHINESE
is true that the Chinese are still in the handicraft
stage and the artisans one sees busy on their
own account in the little workshops along the
street go their own gait. The smiths in iron, tin,
copper, brass and silver, the carvers of ivory,
amber, tortoise-shell, onyx and jade, the workers
in wood, rattan, lacquer, wax, and feathers, the
weavers of linen, cotton, and silk seem, in spite
of their long hours, less breathless and driven,
less prodigal in their expenditure of life energy,
than many of the operatives in our machine in-
dustries who feel the spur of piece wage, team
work, and " speeding up." Still, it is obvious
that in certain occupations men are literally kill-
ing themselves by their exertions. The treadmill-
coolies who propel the stern-wheelers on the West
River admittedly shorten their lives. Nearly all
the lumber used in China is hand-sawed, and the
sawyers are exhausted early. The planers of
boards, the marble polishers, the brass filers, the
cotton Suffers, the treaders who work the big
rice-polishing pestles are building their coffins.
Physicians agree that carrying coolies rarely live
beyond forty-five or fifty years. The term of a
chair-bearer is eight years, of a ricksha runner
four years; for the rest of his life he is an in-
valid. Moreover, carriers and chair-bearers are
afflicted with varicose veins and aneurisms be-
cause the constant tension of the muscles inter-
feres with the return circulation of the blood. A
lady physician in Fokien who had examined some
scores of carrying coolies told me she found but
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 85
two who were free from the heart trouble caused
by burden-bearing.
In Canton, city of a million without a wheel or
a beast of burden, even the careless eye marks in
the porters that throng the streets the plain signs
of overstrain: faces pale and haggard, with the
drawn and flat look of utter exhaustion ; eyes pain-
pinched, or astare and unseeing with supreme ef-
fort; jaw sagging and mouth open from weariness.
The dog trot, the whistling breath, the clenched
teeth, the streaming face of those under a burden
of one to two hundredweight that must be borne
are as eloquent of ebbing life as a jetting artery.
At rest the porter often leans or droops with a
corpse-like sag that betrays utter depletion of vital
energy. In a few years the face becomes a
wrinkled, pain-stiffened mask, the veins of the
upper leg stand out like great cords, a frightful
net of varicose veins blemishes the calf, lumps
appear at the back of the neck or down the spine,
and the shoulders are covered with thick pads of
callous under a livid skin. Inevitably the chil-
dren of the people are drawn into these cogs at
the age of ten or twelve, and not one boy in eight
can be spared till he has learned to read.
There are a number of miscellaneous facts that
hint how close the masses live to the edge of sub-
sistence. The brass cash, the most popular coin
in China, is worth the twentieth of a cent ; but as
this has been found too valuable to meet all the
needs of the people, oblong bits of bamboo circu-
late in some provinces at the value of half a cash.
86 THE CHANGING CHINESE
A Western firm that wishes to entice the masses
with its wares must make a grade of extra cheap-
ness for the China trade. The British-American
Tobacco Company puts up a package of twenty
cigarettes that sells for two cents. The Stand-
ard Oil Company sells by the million a lamp that
costs eleven cents and retails, chimney and all, for
eight-and-a-half cents. It is a curious fact, by
the way, that the oil of its rival, the Asiatic Oil
Company, does not burn well in this cunningly
devised lamp! Incredibly small are the portions
prepared for sale by the huckster. • Two cubic
inches of bean curd, four walnuts, five peanuts,
fifteen roasted beans, twenty melon seeds — make
a portion. The melon vender's stand is decked
out with wedges of insipid melon the size of two
fingers. The householder leaves the butcher's
stall with a morsel of pork, the pluck of a fowl
and a strip of fish as big as a sardine, tied together
with a blade of grass. In Anhwei the query cor-
responding to "How do you make your living?"
is "How do you get through the day?" On tak-
ing leave of his host it is manners for the guest to
thank him expressly for the food he has provided.
Careful observers say that four-fifths of the con-
versation among the co mm on Chinese relates to
food.
Comfort is scarce as well as food. The city
coolie sleeps on a plank in an airless kennel on
a filthy lane with a block for a pillow and a quilt
for a cover. When in a South China hospital all
the beds were provided with springs and mat-
3
THE STEUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE 89
tresses supplied by a philanthropic American, all
the patients were found next morning sleeping
on the floor. After being used to boards covered
with a mat they could not get their proper slumber
on a soft bed.
Necessity makes the wits fertile in devising new
ways of earning a living. I have heard of persons
keeping themselves alive by hiring themselves to
incubate hen's eggs by their bodily warmth. In
some localities people place about the floors of
their sleeping and living rooms flea traps, i. e., tiny
joints of bamboo with a bit of aromatic glue at
the bottom which attracts and holds fast the
vermin. Eecently in Szechuan — where there is a
proverb, "The sooner you get a son the sooner
you get happiness" — some wight has been enter-
prising enough to begin going about from house to
house cleaning the dead fleas and dried glue from
the traps and recharging them with fresh glue.
For this service he charges each house one-
twentieth of a cent.
The great number hanging on to existence "by
the eyelashes" and dropping into the abyss at a
gossamer's touch cheapens life. "Yan to meng
ping," "Many men, life cheap," reply the West
Eiver watermen when reproached for leaving a
sick comrade on the foreshore to die. In a
thronged six-foot street I beheld a shriveled, hor-
ribly twisted leper prone on his back hitching him-
self along sideways inch by inch and imploring
the by-passers to drop alms into his basket. It
contained four cash! In the leper village of
90 THE CHANGING CHINESE
Canton the government furnishes two cents a day
which will buy two bowls of cooked rice. For
their other needs they must beg. Ax and bamboo
are retained and prison reform is halted by the
consideration that, unless the way of the trans-
gressor is made flinty, there are people miserable
enough to commit crime for the bare sake of
prison fare. Not long ago the Commissioner of
Customs at a great South-China port — a foreigner,
of course — impressed by the fact that every
summer the bubonic plague there carried off about
ten thousand Chinese, planned a rigid quarantine
against those ports from which the plague was
liable to be brought. When he sought the co-
operation of the Chinese authorities, the taotai
objected on the ground that there were too many
Chinese anyway, and that, by thinning them out
and making room for the rest, the plague was
a blessing in disguise. The project was dropped
and last summer again the plague ravaged the
city like a fire. But the taotai was not unreason-
able. After all, it is better to die quickly by
plague than slowly by starvation; and, as things
now are, if fewer Chinese perish by disease more
would be swept away by famine.
In a press so desperate, if a man stumbles he
is not likely to get up again. I have heard of
several cases where an employe dismissed for
incompetence or fault returned starving again and
again, because nowhere could he find work. In
China you should move slowly in getting rid of
an incompetent. Euthless dismissal, such as we
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 91
tolerate, is bitterly resented and leads to extreme
unpopularity. Again, no one attempts to stand
alone, seeing the lone man is almost sure to go
under. The son of Han dares not cut himself off
from his family, his clan, or his guild, for they
throw him the life-line by which he can pull him-
self up if his foot slips. Students in the schools
are strong in mass action — strikes, walkouts, etc.,
— for their action, however silly or perverse, is
always unanimous. The sensible lad never thinks
of holding out against the folly of his fellows.
The whole bidding of his experience has been,
"Conform or starve." Likewise no duty is im-
pressed like that of standing by your kinsmen.
The official, the arsenal superintendent, or the
business manager of a college, when he divides
the jobs within his gift among his poor relations,
is obeying the most imperative ethics he knows.
It is an axiom with the Chinese that anything
is better than a fight. They urge compromise even
upon the wronged man and blame him who con-
tends stubbornly for all his rights. This dread
of having trouble is reasonable under their cir-
cumstances. "When a boat is so crowded that the
gunwale is scarce a hand's breadth above the
water, a scuffle must be avoided at all costs, and
each is expected to put up with a great deal be-
fore breaking the peace.
In their outlook on life most Chinese are rank
materialists. They ply the stranger with ques-
tions as to his income, his means, the cost of his
belongings. They cannily offer paper money in-
92 THE CHANGING CHINESE
stead of real money at the graves of their dead,
and sacrifice paper images of the valuables that
once were burned in the funeral pyre. They pray
only for material benefits, never for spiritual bless-
ings; and they compare shrewdly the luck-bring-
ing powers of different josses and altars. Some
sorry little backwoods shrine will get a reputation
for answering prayer and presently there will be
half a cord of gratitude tablets heaped about it,
testimonials to its success. If a drouth continues
after fervent prayers for rain, the resentful peo-
ple smash the idol! Yet no one who comes into
close touch with the Chinese deems this utilitarian-
ism a race trait. They are capable of the highest
idealism. Among the few who have come near to
the thought of Buddha or Jesus one finds faces
saintlike in their glow of spirituality. The
materialism is imposed by hard economic con-
ditions. It is the product of an age-long anxiety
about to-morrow's rice and not to be counter-
acted by the influence of the petty proportion
whose circumstances lift them above sordid anx-
ieties.
Contrary to the theory of certain sociologists
this intensified struggle for life has no perceptible
effect in promoting economic or social improve-
ment. It is a static rather than a dynamic in-
fluence. It makes for exertion and strain but not
for progress because the prime means of progress
are inventions and discoveries, and it is just these
that bond-slaves to poverty, under the stress of the
struggle to keep alive, are not able to bring forth.
One of the three life-boats that
escorted us through the gorges
An ancient mariner
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 95
Most of the stock explanations of national
poverty throw no light on the condition of
the Chinese. They are not impoverished by the
niggardliness of the soil, for China is one of
the most bountiful seats occupied by man. Their
state is not the just recompense of sloth, for no
people is better broken to heavy, unremitting toil.
The trouble is not lack of intelligence in their
work, for they are skilful farmers and clever in
the arts and crafts. Nor have they been dragged
down into their pit of wolfish competition by waste-
ful vices. Opium-smoking and gambling do, in-
deed, ruin many a home, but it is certain that,
even for untainted families and communities, the
plane of living is far lower than in the West.
They are not victims of the rapacity of their
rulers, for if their government does little for them,
it exacts little. In good times its fiscal claims are
far from crushing. With four times our numbers
the national budget is a fifth of ours. The basic
conditions of prosperity — liberty of person and
security of property — are well established. There
is, to be sure, no security for industrial invest-
ments ; but property in land and in goods is reason-
ably well protected. Nor is the lot of the masses
due to exploitation. In the cities there is a sprin-
kling of rich, but out in the province one may
travel for weeks and see no sign of a wealthy class
— no mansion or fine country place, no costume
or equipage befitting the rich. There are great
stretches of fertile agricultural country where the
struggle for subsistence is stern and yet the culti-
96 THE CHANGING CHINESE
vator owns Ms land and implements and pays
tribute to no man.
For a grinding mass poverty that cannot be
matched in the Occident there remains but one
general cause, namely, the crowding of population
upon the means of subsistence. Why this people
should so behave more than other peoples, why
this gifted race should so recklessly multiply as
to condemn itself to a sordid struggle for a bare
existence can be understood only when one un-
derstands the constitution of the Chinese family.
It is believed that unless twice a year certain
rites are performed and paper money is burned
at a man's grave by a male descendant, his spirit
and the spirits of his fathers will wander forlorn
in the spirit world "begging rice" of other spirits.
Hence Mencius taught "there are three things
which are unfilial ; and to have no posterity is the
greatest of them." It is a man's first concern,
therefore, to assure the succession in the male line.
He not only wants a number of sons, but — since life
is not long in China and the making of a suitable
match for a son is the parent's prerogative — he
wants to see his son settled as soon as possible.
Before his son is twenty-one he provides him with
a wife as a matter of course, and the young couple
live with him till the son can fend for himself.
There is none of our feeling that a young man
should not marry till he can support a family.
This wholesome pecuniary check on reproduction
seems wholly wantiug. The son's marriage is
the parents ' affair, not his ; for they pick the girl
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 97
and provide the home. In the colleges one out of
twenty or ten, but sometimes even one out of five
of the students is married, and not infrequently
there are fathers among the members of the gradu-
ating class.
As the bride must be younger than the groom,
early marriage for sons makes early marriage
for daughters. The average age of Chinese girls
at marriage appears to be sixteen or seventeen
years, although some put it at fifteen. In the cities
reached by foreign influence, the age has advanced.
In Peking it is said to be eighteen, in Shanghai
twenty, in Wuchow twenty, in Swatow sixteen to
eighteen, in Chungking seventeen or eighteen
where formerly it was fourteen or fifteen.
Schooling, too, postpones marriage to about
twenty, but not one girl in two thousand is in a
grammar school. About two years ago the Board
of Education at Peking ruled that students in the
government schools should not marry under
twenty in the case of girls and twenty-two in the
case of boys.
At twenty practically all girls, save prostitutes,
are wives and five-sixths of the young men are
husbands. This means that in the Orient the
generations come at least a third closer together
than they do in the Occident. Even if their
average family were no larger than ours, they
can outbreed us, for they get in four generations
while we are rearing three. But their families
are larger because their production of children is
not affected by certain considerations which weigh
98 THE CHANGING CHINESE
with us. Clan ties are so strong that if a poor
man cannot feed his children he can get fellow
clansmen to adopt some of them. Thanks to an-
cestor worship and to reliance on sons for support
in old age, there is a great deal more adopting
than we can imagine. In fact, the demand for
boys to be adopted by couples who have no son has
been eager enough to call into being a brisk kid-
napping trade that is giving trouble to the
Shanghai authorities. Then there are funds left
by bygone clansmen for the relief of necessitous
members. These stimulate procreative reckless-
ness precisely as did the parish relief guaranteed
under the old Poor Law of England.
The burden of the child on the parent is lighter
than with us, while the benefit expected from the
male child is much greater. Lacking our op-
portunities for saving and investment, the Chinese
rely upon the earnings of their sons to keep them
in their old age. A man looks upon his sons as his
old age pension. A girl baby may be drowned
or sold, a boy never. In a society so patriarchal
that a teacher forty years old With a family still
turns over his monthly salary to his father as a
matter of common duty, the parents of one son
are pitied while the parents of many sons are
congratulated.
Moreover, the very atmosphere of China is
charged with appreciation of progeny. From
time immemorial the things considered most
worth while have been posterity, learning and
riches — in the order named. This judgment of
Braving the Yangtse flood. Cliff swallows'
nests at Chungking
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 101
a remote epoch when there was room for all sur-
vives into a time when the land groans under
its burden of population. So a man is still envied
for the number of descendants in the male line
who will walk in his funeral train. Grandchil-
dren, and, still more, great-grandchildren, are
counted the especial blessing of heaven.
Hence a veritable passion to have offspring —
more offspring — as many as possible. In Kuang-
tung I am told that the women are so eager for
many children that they place their suckling with
a wet nurse so as to shorten the interval between
conceptions. In the West there are plenty of par-
ents willing to unload their superfluous children
upon an institution, whereas a Chinese parent
never gives up a male child till he is in sore straits
and reclaims it the moment he is able. The boy
is a partly-paid-up old age endowment policy
that shall not lapse if he can help it. What chil-
dren's home with us would dare undertake, as
does the Asile de la Sainte Enfance among 320,-
000 Chinese in Hong Kong, to care for all children
offered and to give them back at the parents ' con-
venience ?
With us a rich man may not lawfully beget
and rear more children than one wife can bear
him. In China, however, the concubine has a legal
status, her issue is legitimate and a man may con-
tribute to the population his children by as many
women as he cares to take to himself. With us
one-sixth of the women between thirty and thirty-
five are unmarried, while in China not one woman
102 THE CHANGING CHINESE
in a thousand remains a spinster, so that nearly
all the female reproductive capacity of each gen-
eration is utilized in child bearing.
Thus all things conspire to encourage the
Chinese to multiply freely without paying heed to
the economic prospect. Their domestic system is
a snare, yet no Malthus has ever startled China
out of her deep satisfaction with her domestic sys-
tem. She believes that, whatever may be wrong
with her, her family is all right; and dreams of
teaching the anarchic West filial piety and true
propriety in the relations of the sexes. It has
never occurred to the thinkers of the yellow race
that the rate of multiplication is one of the great
factors in determining the plane on which the
masses live. Point out this axiom of political
economy to a scholar and he meets it with such
comforting saws as, "One more bowlful out of
a big rice tub makes no difference," "There is
always food for a chicken," "The only son will
starve" (i.e., will be a ne'er-do-well). Or he may
argue that there can be no relation between density
and poverty by citing big villages in which people
are better off than in neighboring little villages !
If people will blindly breed when there is no
longer room to raise more food, the penalty must
fall somewhere. The deaths will somehow con-
trive to balance the births. It is a mercy that in
China the strain comes in the years of infancy, in-
stead of later on dragging down great numbers
of adults into a state of semi-starvation until they
are thinned out sufficiently. The mortality among
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 103
infants is well-nigh incredible. This woman has
borne eleven children, and all are dead; that one
is the mother of seven, all dying young; another
has only two left out of eleven, another, four left
out of twelve. Such were the cases that occurred
offhand to my informants. One missionary can-
vassed his district and found that nine children
out of ten never grew up. Dr. McCartney of
Chungking, after twenty years of practice there,
estimates that seventy-five to eighty-five per cent,
of the children born in that region die before the
end of the second year. The returns from Hcmg
Kong for 1909 show that the number of children
dying under one year of age is eighty-seven per
cent, of the number of births reported within the
year. The first census of the Japanese in For-
mosa seems to show that nearly half of the chil-
dren born to the Chinese there die within six
months.
Not all this appalling loss is the result of
poverty. The proportion of weakly infants is
large, probably owing to the immaturity of the
mothers. The use of milk is unknown in China
and so the babe that cannot be suckled is doomed.
Even when it can, the ignorant mother starts it
too early on adult food. In some parts they kill
many by stuffing the mouth of the tender infant
with a certain indigestible cake. The slaughter
of the innocents by mothers who know nothing of
how to care for the child is ghastly. And yet
so necessary is this loss in order to keep numbers
down to the food supply that more than one phy-
104 THE CHANGING CHINESE
sician endorsed the remark of a medical mis-
sionary: that the doctor who should get these
mothers together and teach them how to save their
babies would be assuming a very grave responsi-
bility!
Still, much of the child mortality is the direct
consequence of economic pressure. A girl is only
a burden, for she marries before she is of use to
her parents and is lost into her husband's family.
Only in default of male children may she invite her
parents to live with her husband and herself.
Small wonder, then, that not infrequently the
female infant is murdered at birth. Again, when
the family is already large, the parents despair of
raising the child and it perishes from neglect. In
Hupeh a man explaining that two of his children
have died will say: "Tin lio Hang ~ko hai tsi," "I
have been relieved of two children." Another
factor is lack of sufficient good food, which also
makes so many children very small for their age.
The heavy losses from measles, and scarlet fever,
are closely connected with overcrowding.
For adults overpopulation not only spells priva-
tion and drudgery, but it means a life averaging
about fifteen years shorter than ours. Small
wonder, indeed, for in some places human beings
are so thick the earth is literally foul from them.
Unwittingly they poison the ground, they poison
the water, they poison the air, they poison the
growing crops. And while most of them have
enough to eat, little has been reserved from the
sordid food quest. Here are people with stand-
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 105
ards, unquestionably civilized — peaceable, indus-
trious, filial, polite, faithful to their contracts, heed-
ful of the rights of others. Yet their lives are
dreary and squalid for most of their margins have
been swept into the hopper for the production of
population. Two coarse blue cotton garments
clothe them. In summer the children go naked
and the men strip to the waist. Thatched mud
hut, no chimney, smoke-blackened walls, unglazed
windows, rude unpainted stools, a grimy table, a
dirt floor where the pig and the fowls dispute
for scraps, for bed a mud hang with a frazzled mat
on it. No woods, grass, nor flowers; no wood
floors, carpets, curtains, wall-paper, table-cloths
nor ornaments; no books, pictures, newspapers,
nor musical instruments; no sports nor amuse-
ments, few festivals or social gatherings. But
everywhere children, naked, sprawling, squirming,
crawling, tumbling in the dust — the one possession
of which the poorest family has an abundance, and
to which other possessions and interests are fa-
natically sacrificed.
In a census paragraph my eye catches the
report of the headmen for a country district
of eleven square miles in Anhwei. They re-
turn 14,000 souls, nearly 1,200 to the square
mile or two to the acre. Despite its quantity
of waste land Shantung seems to have 700 to
the square mile. Yet it would be an error to
assume that at any given moment all parts
of China are saturated with people. In Shansi
thirty-odd years ago seven-tenths of the in-
106 THE CHANGING CHINESE
habitants perished from famine, and the vacant
spaces and the crumbling walls that meet the
eye show that the gaps have never been quite
filled. Since the opening of the railroad to
Taiyuanfu, the capital, wanderers from congested
Shantung are filtering into the province. The
same is true of Shensi which, besides losing five
millions of its people in the Mohammedan uprising
of the seventies, lost three-tenths of its people by
famine in 1900. Kansuh, Yunnan, and Kuangsi
have never fully recovered from the massacres
following great rebellions, and one often comes on
land once cultivated that has reverted to wilder-
ness. The slaughters of the Taipings left an
abiding mark on Kiangsu and Chekiang. Kuang-
tung and Fokien, the maritime provinces of the
South, have been relieved by emigration. The
tide first set in to Formosa and California, later
it turned to the Dutch Indies, Malaysia, Indo-
China, Singapore, the Philippines, Burmah, Siam,
Borneo, and Australia. About ten millions are
settled outside of China with the result of greatly
mitigating the struggle for existence in these prov-
inces. Within recent years $9,000,000 have
flowed into the Sanning district from which the
first Kuangtung men went out to California and
to Singapore. It has all been brought back or
sent back by emigrants. The fine burnt-brick farm
housec with stone foundations, the paved threshing
floors and the stately ancestral halls that astonish
one in the rural villages along the coast of Fokien
g5
a **
88 O
o
CD
CD
a-
&'
5"
en?
THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 109
are due to remittances from emigrants. In the
tiger-haunted, wooded hills thirty miles from Foo-
chow one comes on terraces proving former culti-
vation of soils it is no longer necessary to till.
The near future of population in China may
be predicted with some confidence. Within our
time the Chinese will be served by a government
on the Western model. Rebellions will cease, for
grievances will be redressed in time, or else the
standing army will nip uprising in the bud.
When a net of railways enables a paternal gov-
ernment to rush the surplus of one province to
feed the starving in another, famines will end.
The opium demon is already in the way of being
throttled. As a feeling of security becomes
established the confining walls of the cities will
be razed to allow the pent-up people to spread.
Wide streets, parks and sewers will be provided.
Filtered water will be within reach of all. A uni-
versity-trained medical profession will grapple
with disease. Everywhere health officers will
make war on plague-bearing rats and mosquitoes
as to-day in Hong Kong. Epidemics will be fought
with quarantine and serum and isolation hos-
pitals. Milk will be available and district nurses
will instruct mothers how to care for their in-
fants. In response to such life-saving activities
the death rate in China ought to decline from the
present height of fifty or fifty-five per thousand
to the point it has already reached in a modern-
ized Japan, namely, twenty per thousand.
110 THE CHANGING CHINESE
But to lower the birth rate in equal degree —
that, alas, is quite another matter. The factors
responsible for the present fecundity of fifty to
sixty per thousand — three times that of the Amer-
ican stock and nowhere matched in the white
man's world, unless it be in certain districts in
Russia and certain parishes in French Canada —
will not yield so readily. It may easily take the
rest of this century to overcome ancestor worship,
early marriage, the passion for big families and
the inferior position of the wife. For at least
a generation or two China will produce rapidly in
the Oriental way people who will die off slowly
in the Occidental way. When the death rate has
been planed down to twenty the birth rate will
still be more than double, and numbers will be
growing at the rate of over two per cent, a year.
Even with the aid of a scientific agriculture it is,
of course, impossible to make the crops of China
feed such an increase. It must emigrate or
starve. It is the outward thrust of surplus
Japanese that is to-day producing dramatic polit-
ical results in Corea and Manchuria. In forty
or fifty years there will come an outward thrust
of surplus Chinese on ten times this scale. With
a third of the adults able to read and with daily
newspapers thrilling the remotest village with
tidings of the great world, eighteen provinces will
be pouring forth emigrants instead of two. To
Mexico, Central and South America, South-
western Asia, Asia Minor, Africa, and even old
Europe, the black-haired bread-seekers will
THE STRUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE 111
stream, and then "What shall we do with the
Chinese 1" from being in turn a Calif ornian, an
Australian, a Canadian, and a South African
question, will become a world question.
CHAPTER V
THE INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA
THERE are three possibilities known as the
"yellow peril.' ' One is the swamping of
the slow-multiplying, high-wage, white societies
with the overflow that is bound to come when
China has applied Western knowledge to the sav-
ing of human life. This is real and imminent,
and nothing but a concerted policy of exclusion
can avert it. Another is the overmatching of
the white people by colossal armies of well-armed
and well-drilled yellow men who, under the in-
spiring lead of some Oriental Bonaparte, will
first expel the Powers from Eastern Asia and
later overrun Europe.
This forecast is dream-stuff. One who goes
up and down among these teeming proletarians
realizes that, save among the Mohammedans of
the Northwest, the last traces of the military
spirit evaporated long ago. The folk appear to
possess neither the combative impulses nor the
energy of will of the West Europeans. Chinese
lads quarrel in a girlish way with much reviling
but little pounding; with random flourishing of
fists, but only when there is no danger of their
finding the opponent's face. A row among coolies
112
INDUSTBIAL FUTUKE OF CHINA 113
impresses one much more with the objurgatory
richness of the language than with the fighting
prowess of the race.
Very striking is the contrast with the game-
cock Japanese who, fresh from a military feudal-
ism, are still full of pugnacity. At Singapore
three thousand Chinese were detained in quaran-
tine with three hundred Japanese. The latter
made insolent demands such as that they be served
their rice before the Chinese. The Celestials
could easily have crushed this handful of brown
men but in the end, rather than have "trouble,"
they accepted second table. Not that the Chinese
is chicken-hearted. Indeed, there is tiger enough
in him when aroused; but he simply does not
believe in fighting as a way of settling disputes.
To him it is uneconomical, hence foolish. In
Malaya it has been observed that, no matter how
turbulent a crowd of Chinese may become, if one
of their headmen holds up his hand, they quiet
down till they have heard what he has to say.
Their tumult is calculated and they do not get
beside themselves with rage as will a mob of
Japanese or East Indians.
The new army is a vast improvement, but still
its fighting spirit may well be doubted. ' ' How do
you like the service?" an American asked a
couple of reservists. "Very well." "How if a
war should break out?" "Oh, our friends will
let us know in time so we can run away. ' ' Smart-
ing under repeated humiliations the haughty
Manchu princes are forging the new army as an
114 THE CHANGING CHINESE
instrument of revenge; but the Chinese people
prize it as a buckler only and do not intend it
shall take the offensive. In the officers one misses
the martial visage, the firm chin and set jaw that
proclaim the overriding will. The wondering look
and the unaggressive manner of the private re-
veals the simple country lad beneath the khaki.
The Japanese peasant has the bold air of the
soldier; the Chinese soldier has the mild bearing
of the peasant. Belief that right makes might
and that all difficulties can be settled by appeal-
ing to the li, i. e., the Beasonable, so saturates
Chinese thought that nothing but a succession of
shocks that should move the national character
from its foundation will lay them open to the
military spirit. Long before they have lost their
faith in peace, the Chinese will be too strong to
be bullied and too flourishing to seek national
prosperity through conquest.
The third "yellow peril" is the possibility of
an industrial conquest of the West by the Orient.
Contemplating the diligence, sobriety and clever-
ness of the Chinese in connection with their
immense numbers and their low standard of
comfort, some foresee a manufacturing China
driving us out of neutral markets with great
quantities of iron, steel, implements, ships, ma-
chinery and textiles of an incredible cheapness,
and obliging our workingmen, after a long dis-
astrous strife with their employers, to take a
Chinese wage or starve. Against such a calamity
the great industrial nations will be able to protect
The railway police at a station
Chinese Officers
Note lack of the determined, firm-jawed military visage
INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 117
themselves neither by immigration barriers, nor
by tariff walls.
Assuredly the cheapness of Chinese labor is
something to make a factory owner's mouth
water. The women reelers in the silk filatures
of Shanghai get from eight to eleven cents for
eleven hours of work. But Shanghai is dear;
and, besides, everybody there complains that the
laborers are knowing and spoiled. In the steel
works at Hanyang common labor gets $3 a month,
just a tenth of what raw Slavs command in the
South Chicago steel works. Skilled mechanics get
from eight to twelve dollars. In a coal mine near
Ichang a thousand miles up the Yangtse the coolie
receives one cent for carrying a 400-lb. load of
coal on his back down to the river a mile and a
half away. He averages ten loads a day but must
rest every other week. The miners get seven
cents a day and found; that is, a cent's worth of
rice and meal. They work eleven hours a day up
to their knees in water, and all have swollen legs.
After a week of it they have to lie off a couple
of days. No wonder the cost of this coal (semi-
bituminous) at the pit's mouth is only thirty-five
cents a ton. At Chengtu servants get a dollar
and a half a month and find themselves. Across
Szechuan lusty coolies were glad to carry our
chairs half a day for four cents each. In Sianfu
the common coolie gets three cents a day and feeds
himself, or eighty cents a month. Through
Shansi roving harvesters were earning from four
to twelve cents a day and farm hands got five or
118 THE CHANGING CHINESE
six dollars a year and their keep. Speaking
broadly, in any part of the Empire, willing labor-
ers of fair intelligence may be had in any number
at from eight to fifteen cents a day.
With an ocean of such labor power to draw on,
China would appear to be on the eve of a manu-
facturing development that will act like a con-
tinental upheaval in changing the trade map of
the world. The impression is deepened by the
tale of industries that have already sprung up.
In twenty years the Chinese have established
forty-six silk filatures, thirty-eight of them in
Shanghai. More than a dozen cotton-spinning
mills are supplying yarn to native hand looms.
Two woolen mills are weaving cloth for soldiers'
uniforms. In Shanghai there are pure Chinese
factories making glass, cigarettes, yellow-bar
soap, tooth-brushes, and roller-process flour.
The Hanyang Iron and Steel Works — with 5,000
men in the plant and many thousands more mining
and transporting its ore and coal — is doubling
its capacity, having last year contracted with an
American syndicate to furnish annually for fif-
teen years from 36,000 to 72,000 tons of pig-iron
to a steel plant building at Irondale on Puget
Sound.
Those who judge by surfaces anticipate a de-
velopment swift and dramatic; to our race a
catastrophe or a blessing according as one cares
for the millions or the millionaires. But, peer-
ing beneath the surface, one descries certain
factors which forbid us to believe that the in-
INDUSTKIAL FUTUEE OF CHINA 119
dustriai blooming of the yellow race is to occur
in our time.
Before flooding world markets the yellow-labor
mills must supply the wants of the Chinese them-
selves for manufactured goods ; and, even if, man
for man, they have not more than a seventh of the
buying power of Americans, China still offers a
market more than half as large as that of the
whole United States. Its estimated annual con-
sumption of cotton goods would carpet a road-
way sixty feet wide from here to the moon ! Ow-
ing to the indefinitely expanding market Eastern
Asia will afford for the cheap machine-made
fabrics, utensils, implements, cutlery, toilet
articles and time-pieces to pour forth from the
native factories to be established, the evil day is
yet distant when the white man's product will
be beaten from the South American or African
fields by the handiwork of the yellow man.
Then production is not always so cheap as wages
are low. For all his native capacity, the coolie will
need a long course of schooling, industrial train-
ing, and factory atmosphere before he inches up
abreast of the German or American workingman.
At a railway center in North China is a govern-
ment establishment that imports bridge materials
from Europe, builds up the beams, fits and
punches them, and sends them out in knock-down
state to the place where the bridge is needed.
Yet, with labor five times as cheap, it cannot
furnish iron bridges as cheaply as they can be
imported from Belgium, which means that at pres-
120 THE CHANGING CHINESE
ent, one Belgian iron-worker is worth more than
five Chinese. It will take at least a generation
or two for the necessary technical skill to become
hereditary among these working people.
Active China, which is about as large as the
United States east of the Eocky Mountains, has
less than 7,000 miles of railway. Owing to the
thick population and the intensive agriculture the
traffic potency of most parts is even now so great
that, no doubt, ten times the present mileage, if
economically constructed and managed, would
yield handsome dividends on the investment.
Now, at best it would take China's spare capital
for the next thirty years to build the railways the
country ought to have. It must be borne in mind,
too, that, outside a few treaty ports, the new in-
dustries await the initiative of the Chinese. Gone
forever are the halcyon days of Li Hung Chang's
railway and mining concessions, when a single
foreigner could obtain the exclusive right to mine
coal and iron over 5,400 square miles of the rich-
est mineral-bearing province. The rising nation-
alism with its cry, "China for the Chinese," has
put an end to all that. The Government has re-
covered certain of the railway concessions and
the people of Shansi paid the Peking Syndicate
two-and-one-quarter millions of dollars to re-
linquish an undeveloped concession. China will,
no doubt, block the path of the foreign exploiter
as carefully as Japan has, and her mills and mines
will be Chinese or nothing. But the courage of
the Chinese capitalist is chilled by the rapacity of
INDUSTEIAL FUTUBE OF CHINA 121
officials unchecked by law court or popular suf-
frage. One of the directors of the Shanghai-
Hangchow Railway — a purely Chinese line — tells
me their chief trouble in building the road was
the harassing ''inspections" which obliged them
to bribe the officials in order to go on with the
work. Moreover, Peking forced upon the com-
pany a large, unneeded foreign loan which would
have been expended by government men without
the stockholders knowing how much stuck to the
fingers of the officials. So, instead of using the
money for building the road, the company loaned
it out in small amounts at a high interest and will
repay it as soon as the terms of the loan permit.
The case of Fokien shows how irresponsible gov-
ernment paralyzes the spirit of enterprise. For
half a century Fokienese have been wandering into
the English and Dutch possessions in Southeast-
ern Asia, where not a few of them prosper as
merchants, planters, mine operators, contractors
and industrialists. Some of them return with
capital, technical knowledge, and experience in
managing large undertakings. Yet, aside from a
saw mill — the only one I saw in China — I hear of
not one modern undertaking in the province. The
coal seams lie untouched. The mandarins lay it
to the difficulty of getting the coal to tidewater.
The Fokienese rich from his tin-mining in
Perak — there are thirty Chinese millionaires in
the Malay States — tells you it is dread of official
' ' squeeze. ' '
The country back of Swatow is rich in minerals.
122 THE CHANGING CHINESE
But what probably would happen to a retired
Singapore contractor so rash as to embark on a
mining venture there? The clan of Hakkas in
the neighborhood of the ore deposit would demand'
something for letting him work it unmolested.
The local mandarin would have to be squared.
The "li kin" officials would sweat him well before
letting his imported machinery go up the river.
The magistrate of every district his product
touched in going down to the coast would hold him
up. Finally, at any moment, his operations might
be halted by an outbreak of superstitious fear lest
they were disturbing the earth dragon and spoil-
ing the luck of the community. Small wonder a
high imperial official confessed to me — in confi-
dence — that not one penny of his fortune ever
goes into a concern not under foreign protection.
His Excellency Wu Ting Pang is so impressed
with the blight of insecurity that he suggests that,
instead of clamoring for an early parliament, the
people exact of the Imperial Government a Magna
Charta guaranteeing the following rights: No
arrest without a proper warrant; public trial
within twenty-four hours; no punishment or fin-
ing of the relatives of a convicted person ; no con-
fiscation of the property of his partners or busi-
ness associates.
Although vast in aggregate the agriculture of
China is petty agriculture and its industry is petty
industry. Its business men are' unfamiliar with
the management of large-scale enterprises and
INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 125
have had no experience with the joint-stock com-
pany. Highly honorable as merchants and bank-
ers, they have never worked out an ethics for the
stock company, and in such relations they are the
prey of a mutual distrust which is only too well
founded.
The taking of commissions has become so in-
grained in the Chinese that it is no longer a moral
fact but only an economic fact. Your cook takes
his wages as a recompense for his technical serv^
ices only; for his services as a business man in
buying for your household he feels himself en-
titled to a profit. Bray him in a mortar but you
will not get the notion out of him. A customs
chief tells me how thirty years ago when he was a
newcomer he complained bitterly to his Chinese
teacher about the way he as a foreigner was
robbed by his servants. "But," explained the
scholar, "we Chinese suffer from the practice as
much as you do. If I give the old woman who is
my servant five cash to buy food for me she keeps
one cash. If I give her one cash to buy vinegar
she cannot pocket her commission, but she will not
be foiled; she spills a little of the vinegar!"
This is why as soon as a business capital is any-
where got together it begins mysteriously to melt
away. A company formed to build a certain rail-
way maintains an idle office staff of ten, and
station-masters have been engaged and put on the
pay-roll, although not a rail has been laid. Much
of the pay of these lucky employes goes, no
doubt, to those who appointed them. Sleepers
126 THE CHANGING CHINESE
were bought in great quantities, and after lying
for a year were sold to carpenters. One of the
government railways called for tenders for sleep-
ers. A German firm bid lowest and filled the
order. Later, when more sleepers were wanted,
the purchasing official, instead of calling for new
bids, telegraphed to the firm, "Your Japanese
competitor has come down to your figure, but you
may have the contract for a moderate commis-
sion." The offer was ignored, and the Japanese
supplied the sleepers, no doubt after giving a
douceur.
In a big government works the foreign expert
after due tests designated a certain coal as the
best in heating capacity. The first lot supplied
to him by the purchasing agent of the works was
K. The second was poor, although the agent
stoutly insisted it was the same coal. He had been
given a commission to substitute the inferior fuel.
The railway engineer, whether foreigner or Chi-
nese, is continually put out by the arrival from
oversea of machinery or materials different in
kind or grade from what he had ordered. The
cause is not inadvertence. There are thirteen
railways now being constructed on the basis of
"everything Chinese," and most of them have one
trait in common; the money goes faster than the
construction. The Amoy-Changchowfu line, the
first in Fokien, proceeds with disappointing slow-
ness. Great piles of rails and ties lie deteriorat-
ing, waiting for road-bed. The construction of
the Canton-Hankow line advances at what the
INDUSTRIAL FUTUEE OF CHINA 127
stockholders feel to be a snail's pace. The Anhwei
Railway Company has disbursed five million taels
and not a mile of track is completed. The piers
for the bridges are ready, the structural iron for
them is on the ground, and thirteen miles of grad-
ing is completed. But the company's money and
credit are gone, the shareholders are disgusted,
and work is nearly at a standstill. There are
enough of such experiences to make one call China
' ' the land of broken promise. ' ' Some of the trou-
ble is due to bad judgment, but too often the man-
agement has been pulled out of plumb by the itch
for commissions.
"With us the individual early detaches himself
from his family and circulates through society as
a free self -moving unit. In China family and clan
ties mean more, and there are few duties more
sacred than that of helping your kinsmen even
at other people 's expense. You feel it is right to
provide berths for your relatives and no scruple
as to their comparative fitness tweaks your con-
science. When an expectant is appointed to office
(not in his own province, of course), his relatives
even unto the n th degree call upon him with con-
gratulations and suggest that he find places for
them in his new post. After he takes office the
proteges of his predecessor, realizing that their
room is more prized than their company, have the
grace to get out as soon as they can "look
around. ' '
Now, this pestilent nepotism quickly fastens it-
self upon industrial undertakings. The manager
128 THE CHANGING CHINESE
of a government plant on looking into one of the
departments, which was going badly, found that
thirty-three out of the fifty-five men in that depart-
ment were relatives of the foreman. Since two
years ago, when the Peking-Hankow Railway
came under Chinese management, the positions
along the line have been filled on the basis of sheer
favoritism, with the result of loading the pay-roll
with incompetents. No wonder the ticket-seller
regards the crowd at the ticket-window as a nui-
sance, and lets them fume while he chats with his
friends. And you may hear the track manager
complain bitterly of having to put in and retain
certain relatives of the director, who cannot do the
work assigned them.
So desperate is the struggle to live and so in-
grained is the spirit of nepotism that whenever
a capital is laid out by anyone else than the owner
employes multiply like locusts. They drop out
of the clouds and spring up from the ground.
The government offices at Peking are clogged with
useless place-holders. You marvel that colleges
with twenty-five or thirty teachers maintain ten
officers of administration until you realize that
half of them are sinecurists. In one plant the
foreign expert found thirty-six parasites sucking
the water-pipe all day and drawing good pay.
One was purchaser of coal, another purchaser of
wood, another custodian of the steam-fittings, and
so on.
At Lin Ching a Belgian company came to terms
with a Chinese company with a concession by giv-
n
■A a
o\ 2
o
INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 131
ing them half the stock and agreeing to pay a
Chinese director and a Chinese engineer in addi-
tion, of course, to the foreign director and the for-
eign engineer. The theory is that the Belgians
and the Chinese are partners in operating the col-
liery; but the naked fact is, that the latter are
mere parasites on the enterprise. The Chinese
director lives at Tientsin on his seven hundred dol-
lars a month, and never goes near the mine. The
Chinese engineer with his two hundred and twenty-
five dollars a month and a fine house built him
near the mine gives no technical services whatever
but goes about suppressing the petty native coal
diggings that impair the exclusiveness of the com-
pany's concession!
In another place a German company has opened
coal mines under an arrangement whereby the
Chinese take half the nominal capital and a Chi-
nese director is paid a fine salary. He lives at
Tientsin and never comes near the works. The
German manager directs and he earns his salary.
If the coal is being pilfered and he makes com-
plaint to the hsien magistrate against the culprits,
they are persistently let off until the manager
calls and fills the pockets of the worthy mandarin
with dollars. Then the thieves are bambooed.
Under such harassments the foreign staff as a
whole can take no holiday. They must be on the
spot all the time, for the moment they leave things
go badly and in a short time the plant would be
ruined.
At the present stage the Chinese business man
132 THE CHANGING CHINESE
can get along neither with the foreign expert nor
without him. Four hundred miles up the West
Eiver you see tons of heavy machinery lying on
the bank. It was imported for smelting silver ore
in the mountains fifteen miles away. The Chinese
found themselves unable to set up the smelter, so
the machinery rusts while the ore is smelted in
England. An engineer will be given lot after lot
of bad coal because his manager never thinks of
fuel in terms of heating capacity. To him coal is
coal and the cheapest is the best. Shansi is the
Pennsylvania of the Empire, and at great price
the provincials regained the right to exploit its
mineral wealth themselves. Yet a certificated
colliery manager has been four years at Shansi
University as professor of mining and never has
his professional opinion been sought on a mining
question !
The Hanyang Company appreciates the expert
and employs twenty-two French and Belgians to
supervise the making of steel. But not always
are the Chinese so fortunate. The first Swatow
Electric Light Company failed through reliance
upon a foreigner who was less of an expert than
he represented himself to be. About three years
ago the " Protection of Shansi" Mining Company
undertook to develop coal-mining in their prov-
ince. The first expert they employed was to
reconnoiter and report. He spent several months
going about, but, as he failed to map his wander-
ings and finds, his reports were worth little.
Then a great English expert was engaged, but
INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 133
when, on reaching Tientsin, he learned he was ex-
pected to spend months in the field instead of a
few weeks, he took his expenses and went home.
When, finally, a twenty-foot vein of coal was at-
tacked, expert after expert quit because each in-
sisted on having things done right, and the com-
pany would not follow his advice. It is plain that
both the native capitalists and the imported
experts have grievances. The situation is un-
fortunate, and cannot but retard development
until China has good engineering and technical
schools for training experts of her own.
The inefficiency of the management of Chinese
undertakings is heart-rending in its waste of
sweat-won wealth. The superintendent of con-
struction of a railroad will be a worthy mandarin,
without technical knowledge or experience, who
has to rely wholly on his subordinates. Or the
prominent financier chosen president of the com-
pany feels himself quite above the vulgar details
of management and so delegates the task to some-
one of less consequence. This gentleman, too,
feels above the work, and passes it down to some-
one else. So the big men become figureheads and
little men run the enterprise. Any government
undertaking suffers from the conceit and un-
practically of the mandarins. The initial price
of the cement from a government plant was fixed
at a dollar a barrel more than the cost of good
foreign cement. The officials thought that the
people would beg for "imperial cement" regard-
less of price.
134 THE CHANGING CHINESE
When the government match factory was pro-
jected for Taiyuanfu the factory was built, ma-
chinery was ordered from, the United States and
workmen were hired. But the machinery never
came for no money had accompanied the order,
and the workmen were paid for doing nothing un-
til in a couple of years the fund allotted to the
enterprise was exhausted. Not long ago the en-
terprise was revived and the government product
has now crowded out the Japanese matches.
Near Wuhu is a modern brick kiln which under
a foreign superintendent turned out excellent
bricks at the same price as those from the native
kilns ; but under Chinese management the quality
has sunk until the output is little better than the
native bricks.
Again, the Chinaman is handicapped by his lust
for immediate profit without regard to the future.
For example, near the end of 1909 Captain Plant
began running the "Shutung" through the
Yangtse Gorges to Chungking. It was the first
steam service on that dangerous reach and the
little steamer made money so fast that her Chinese
owners, intent only on the gain of the moment,
gave the Captain no time between trips to clean
her engines. Only when the indispensable
skipper refused to make another trip was he
granted a week to overhaul her vitals.
Years ago Dr. Nevius, a missionary at Chefoo,
set out the best of American fruit trees and the
product of his orchard became famous through-
out the Far East. But on his death the orchard
INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 137
came into the hands of a Chinaman who, greedy
of the maximum profit, made it a pasture for pigs,
neglected to loosen the soil and never pruned the
trees. As a result the fruit has greatly deterior-
ated, the cherries have become small, the apples
and pears knotty, woody and wormy.
The fact is the faulty past lies too heavily on
the mind and the character of contemporary
Chinese. The real strength of the race will not
generally declare itself till a new generation is
on the stage, bred in the new education and en-
forcing a higher code. Perhaps the moral atmos-
phere will not clear till there has come a marked
let-up in the struggle for existence. At the back
of the business man's mind lurks, I fancy, a dim
sense of a myriad clutching hands. People do not
judge one another very strictly when each acts with
the abyss ever before his eyes. The excellent
reputation enjoyed by the Chinese business men
in Malaysia suggests that only in a land of op-
portunity does the natural solidity of character
of the yellow race show itself. In the Straits Set-
tlements the Chinese are successful producers of
pith helmets, chemicals, medicines, lighthouse
lenses, machine-carved furniture, ice-making ma-
chines, wines, liqueurs and other articles not yet
attempted by their brethren at home.
It is not likely, then, that the march of indus-
trialism in China will be so rapid and triumphant
as many have anticipated. Jealousy of the
foreigner, dearth of capital, ignorant labor, offi-
cial squeeze, graft, nepotism, lack of experts, and
138 THE CHANGING CHINESE
inefficient management will long delay the harness-
ing of the cheap labor power of China to the
machine. Not we, nor our children, but our
grandchildren, will need to lie awake nights. It
is along in the latter half of this century that
the yellow man's economic competition will begin
to mold with giant hands the politics of the planet.
CHAPTER VI
THE GEAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL
IT was in West China. Our sedan chairs were
a mile behind us, and we were not sure of the
road. ' ' How far is it to Paoki f ' ' the consul asked
a peasant. No answer. ''How far is it to
Paoki?" The man turned his head a little. The
third asking brought a glimmer of speculation
into the vacant eyes. On the fourth asking he
caught the idea ' ' Paoki. ' ' The fifth punctured his
mental fog with "How far?" and slowly and
thickly as from a sleep-walker came the reply,
"Forty li." "What does it mean?" I demanded
after a dozen such experiences in a single morn-
ing. " Is it sheer natural stupidity ? " " No, ' ' re-
plied the consul, ruminating, "probably opium.
You have heard the saying 'Out of ten Shensi
people, eleven smokers!' "
This was my first good look at China's Skele-
ton in the Closet.
Opium smoking was first heard of in China in
the fourteenth century. In 1729 there was an
edict issued which prohibited the use of opium
and ordered the closing of the smoking-dens.
Nobody knows whether or not it was enforced.
Late in that century, in consequence of the British
East India Company's pushing its Bengal opium
139
140 THE CHANGING CHINESE
into the various ports of China, the habit took
root in all parts of the country. The British
found that it was a lucrative trade and never let
up. The total gain from Indian opium — that is,
the amount paid by China and Eastern Asia for
that commodity above its cost price between 1773
and 1906 — has been estimated at two billion, one
hundred millions of dollars. About 1840, the
Chinese Emperor became so alarmed at the in-
roads of the poison that he appointed Lin Im-
perial Commissioner at Canton with orders to put
down the trade. His efforts brought him into
collision with the English traders and his de-
struction of ten thousand chests of opium pre-
cipitated the First Opium War. It ended in Eng-
land's forcing on China a humiliating treaty
which heavily indemnified the traders for their
losses. In 1857 came the Second Opium War re-
sulting in the Treaty of Tientsin which bound the
government of China not to interfere with nor
limit the introduction of Indian opium into the
Empire.
Until this time the government had not tol-
erated the cultivation of the poppy plant; but
now, rather than see the country drained of silver
to buy of India a narcotic that can easily be pro-
duced on the soil of China, the government re-
moved its restriction, and the poppy spread with
great rapidity. In the end six-sevenths of the
opium consumed by the Chinese was home-grown.
Meanwhile the luxury use of opium spread
with appalling rapidity. Four years ago the
GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 141
Chinese were using seventy times as much, opium
as they were using in 1800. Annually twenty-two
thousand tons of the drug were absorbed, most
of it converted into thick smoke and inhaled by
a legion of smokers estimated to number at least
twenty-five millions. Even the English allow there
were eight million smokers. In the poppy provin-
ces opium was so plentiful and cheap that a
shocking proportion of the adult population be-
came addicted to the habit. In Szechuan, in the
cities half of the men and a fifth of the women
came to smoke opium. In the country the pro-
portions were fifteen per cent, and five per cent,
respectively. In Kansuh three men out of four
were said to be smokers. In western Shensi
we came upon districts where we were assured
that nine-tenths of the women above forty smoked.
In Yunnan the principal inquiry in matrimonial
negotiations was, "How many opium pipes in the
family?" this being a certain indication of its
financial standing. Whole populations had given
themselves up to the seductive pipe and were sink-
ing into a state of indescribable lethargy, misery
and degradation.
The pipe has a peculiar seduction for the
Chinese because their lives are so bare of interest.
They indulge in none of that innocent companion-
ship of men and women which contributes such a
charm to life. They take to their twin vices —
opium smoking and gambling — as a relief from
the dreary flatness that results from sacrificing
most of the things that make life interesting in
142 THE CHANGING CHINESE
the mad endeavor to maintain the largest possible
number of human beings on the minimum area.
Under a family system that tempts them to multi-
ply without regard to prospects the Chinese have
pruned away much that lends value to life. Five
years ago the Philippine Opium Commission ob-
served in its report:
"What people on earth are so poorly provided
with food as the indigent Chinese, or so destitute
of amusement as all Chinese both rich and poor?
There are no outdoor games in China, or indeed
any games except in a gambling sense. Absolute
dullness and dreariness seem to prevail every-
where. As these two demons drive the Cauca-
sians to drink so they drive the Chinese to opium.
As an individual may by habitual toil and atten-
tion to business become incapable of amusement,
so a race of almost incredible antiquity, which has
toiled for millenniums, may likewise reach a point
in its development where the faculty of being
amused has atrophied and disappeared, so that all
that remains is the desire to spend leisure in
placidity. And nothing contributes so much to
this as opium. In Formosa the merry Japanese
boys are teaching the placid Chinese lads to play
tennis, foot ball, polo, vaulting, etc., with the view
— the Japanese teachers say — of improving them
physically and also of developing in them a love
of sports which will prevent them from wishing to
spend their leisure indoors smoking opium. And
the poor who have no leisure? They often have
no food, or so little that any drug which removes
GKAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 143
first the pangs of hunger, and later the healthy-
cravings of appetite, seems a boon to them. Add
to this the feeling of peace and well being that
often accompanies the smoking of opium, and it
is not difficult to see why the indigent Chinese use
it. We administer morphine to relieve pain. The
life of the indigent Chinese coolie is pain caused
by privation. The opium sot is an object of pity
rather than of contempt. If the Chinese seem
more easily to contract such evil habits than other
nations, and are more the slave of them, is not
that due to the dullness of the lives of the well-
to-do and to the painful squalor of the indigent ? ' '
A month's travel by sedan chair gave me some
light on why the coolie hankers for his pipe. Our
chair and baggage coolies took with them no wrap
nor change of clothing and eight successive days
of rain brought them to a state of utter misery.
After twelve hours of splashing and slipping up
and down the mountain roads and fording swollen
torrents in a cold drizzle under a weight of from
seventy to ninety pounds they would come at even-
ing utterly exhausted to a cheerless, comfortless
Chinese inn. No fire, no clothing save two soaked
cotton garments; no bed save a brick hang with
a ragged mat on it; no blankets. For supper
nothing but rice and bean curd or macaroni.
What wonder that, after eating, the poor fellow
curled up on the mat with the tiny lamp beside
him, rolled the black bead and sucked the thick
smoke till he passed beyond the reach of cold,
discomfort and weariness !
144
THE CHANGING CHINESE
One may wonder why the cancer was allowed to
eat so deeply into the social body. To be sure,
the hands of the government were tied by the
treaty privileges of the trade in foreign opium.
Still, what Western society would tolerate the
ravages of alcohol as China has supinely tolerated
the ravages of opium? Even if government
FAMILY AND HOME VANISHING INTO THE OPIUM PIPE
(Native reform cartoon)
could do nothing, other agencies would have
sprung into activity. The pulpit, the platform,
the school, the chair, the press, and the temperance
societies and movements would have set bounds
to the gangrene. But Chinese society lacks most
of these organs of self-protection. In the re-
ligions of China there is no place for preaching
or church discipline. The schools were expected
GEAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 145
to teach nothing but the classic learning. News-
papers did not circulate. Private associations,
even innocent societies for moral purposes, were
under the ban of government. Above all, women,
the natural foes of destructive vice, were bound
and dumb. One of the greatest forces behind the
temperance movement in the West has been the
influence of women, rallying, organizing, and
agitating in defense of the home. But in China
not one woman in a thousand can read. Women
have no part in discussion, no place in public
life and hence no means of voicing the woe that
comes to them from the smoking of opium by
their men folk.
What finally moved the Imperial Government,
at a heavy sacrifice of public revenue, to enter on
its great struggle was not so much pity for the
wreck and misery caused by the seductive narcotic
as a realizing sense of the weakness of the Chinese
nation in the presence of the Western Powers.
The reign of apathy and selfishness among the
Chinese, their lack of public spirit and effective
cooperation at critical moments were inviting
treatment ever more aggressive and ruthless. It
became clear even to the haughty and hide-bound
Manchu that, unless the people speedily renounced
the vice that was undermining its manhood and
recovered its normal resisting power, there was
no hope for China among the nations.
The famous Anti-Opium Edict issued by the
Empress Dowager September 20, 1906, which
commanded that the growth, sale, and consump-
146 THE CHANGING CHINESE
tion of opium should cease in the Empire within
ten years was the opening gun in what is un-
doubtedly the most extensive warfare on a vicious
private habit that the world has ever known. The
gigantic moral conflict has raged over a territory
comparable in size to the United States. Hun-
dreds of thousands of officials, gentry, students,
merchants and den-keepers have been drawn into
it. Blood has been shed and property has been
destroyed on a great scale. The stake is the lives
of some millions of opium-users, to say nothing
of the oncoming generations. The guerdon of
victory is the assured independence of the yellow
race and its eventual participation on equal terms
with the white race in the control of the destinies
of the planet.
Once see the poppy in her pride and you realize
that there is nothing drab nor homespun about
opium raising. Among plots of sordid beans or
pulse or cabbages the poppy field stands out like
a flame. At full bloom its splendor befits a crop
that is to lure and ruin men rather than nourish
them. The dominant note is snow white, but bells
of all gorgeous hues are to be seen : purple, ruby,
crimson, scarlet and pink, besides white blossoms
tipped or streaked with these — a riot of color.
For rich prodigal beauty no field crop under the
sun can match it. The flowering poppy is vivid,
dramatic and passionate, like some superb ad-
venturess luring troops of lovers and, vampire-
like, sucking out their souls with her kisses.
South half of the west wall of Sianf u, from the west gate
City wall and five-story pagoda, Canton
GEAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 149
Nor is the harvesting commonplace. When the
poppy's time has come all you see is thousands
of spherical pods one or two inches through, erect
each on its slender reed-like stem. A man with
a small knife follows the rows cutting lightly
around every pod. Drop by drop a juice exudes,
milky at first but which in a day or two turns
brown and gummy. Then the reaper goes about
scraping from the pods this precious gum. Just
a few pounds of drug to the acre — that is all
there is to it. And the stalks dry and bleach like
the cast-off skin of a rattlesnake until they are
gathered for fuel, and the pods are threshed for
the poppy seed to be ground for food or pressed
for oil.
Now, raw opium is a poison, and when the crop
is in the unhappy women who have been waiting
for it — for women abhor a violent death — seize
their opportunity. When we were at Wukung
in Shensi the mission ladies there were being
called out nearly every day to give an emetic and
save the life of some poor creature who thought
to end her sorrows with the only poison within
her reach. From the adjoining province a cor-
respondent writes: ''One benefit of the continual
rise in the price of opium is the manifestly de-
creasing number of attempts at suicide by taking
the drug. One now finds it hard to extract death
from ten rolls of opium and the increased cost of
poison is deterring many would-be suicides. The
present make of opium-rolls, selling at ten cash,
contain only about three parts of opium to seven
150 THE CHANGING CHINESE
of horse-hoofs and other leather waste." In
other words, when suicide costs as much as ten
cents it is a luxury that few can afford. In a
province where a servant gets eighty cents a
month and finds himself, this is not to be wondered
at.
In most parts of China the cultivation of the
poppy has been spreading at an alarming rate
within our own time. It is especially, however,
the interior provinces, shut away by mountain
ranges from the commercial highways, that have
gone over to poppy growing. The reason is that
opium is the one crop that can be got to market
without most of its value being eaten up in the
cost of transportation. A coolie will trot a picul
[133 lbs.] of opium to market over several hun-
dred miles of atrocious roads without seriously
adding to the cost of the drug that sells for from
two to ten dollars a pound. No mere food prod-
uct of the same soil could profitably be carried
a twentieth of the distance to find a market. To
the farmers of Yunnan, Kweichow, Szechuan,
Shensi, or Kansuh, opium is the only road to the
market, just as in "Washington's time whiskey
was the only route by which the trans- Allegheny
settlers could get their surplus corn to tidewater.
And poppy prohibition stung some of them into
resistance just as the Federal taxes on spirits
galled the farmers of Western Pennsylvania into
the Whiskey Eebellion of 1798.
When the Empress Dowager took opium by the
GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 151
throat half the acreage of certain interior prov-
inces was given over to the poppy during its sea-
son. So much had the plant cut into the produc-
tion of food that the cost of the necessities of
life was crowding the local laboring people to the
verge of starvation. There was more money in
opium than in anything else, and so leases, land
rentals and mortgages became adjusted to the
lucrative opium crop. To many a farmer the re-
linquishment of the poppy would spell blue ruin.
The stopping of opium-growing looked about as
simple and feasible a proposition as the stopping
of corn-growing in the West or of cotton-plant-
ing in the South by Act of Congress. Many
thought the effete Imperial Government would
never show the force and authority necessary to
wipe out the chief money-making crop of the peas-
antry.
The ins and outs of the fight on the poppy are
full of the Arabian Nights flavor. When the
magistrate proclaims the Anti-Opium Edict and
announces that he intends to see it obeyed the cul-
tivators call upon him in a body, grovel on their
faces before him, remind him that he is the
"father and mother" of them all and beseech him
to save them from ruin by letting them grow their
poppy just this season. Of course there is a fat
bribe lurking in the background for the official
who is open to that sort of persuasion; and un-
less the official is a reformer at heart or else
afraid of losing his place, he is not wholly ob-
152 THE CHANGING CHINESE
durate. The salary of the mandarin is nominal
and he has somehow to squeeze a living income
out of his district.
But if importunity avails not the farmers re-
sort to ruse. They raise the poppy in small
patches in out-of-the-way places off the main road
— behind walls or trees or up a little side valley —
or they cut off the leaves and flowers so the crop
cannot be recognized at a distance. They rely
on steering-off or bribing shut the eyes of the
"runners" sent out from the magistrate's head-
quarters to look for infractions of the Edict. If,
nevertheless, the mandarin hears of illicit poppy-
growing and comes in his big green sedan chair
borne on the shoulders of four bearers, with a
force of men to pull up the outlawed plants, the
tactics suddenly change. He may be met by the
men of several confederated villages armed with
sickles, pitchforks, and billhooks and intent on
mischief. At Wukung shortly before our visit
the mob put to flight the satellites" of the magis-
trate and even laid rude hands on the official him-
self. He took refuge in a temple and sagely let
it be known the farmers might grow poppy for
all he cared.
At Kin Kiangai in Kansuh, the prefect who
had come to destroy the growing opium was set
upon in the official inn and beaten nearly to death.
In a few weeks, however, several of the leaders
of the riot were beheaded after a public trial and
the overawed farmers hastened to dig up their
poppy fields. At Wenchow in Chekiang, when the
CO 2
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SB ni
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GBAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 155
magistrate appeared with a company of soldiers
and proceeded to destroy the evil crop, about two
thousand farmers attacked his force and a number
of rioters and soldiers were injured. Three hun-
dred troops and a gunboat were presently dis-
patched to the scene and the law-breakers were
quelled.
Near the capital of Shansi a certain Kung who
had fortified himself with drink went about beat-
ing a gong and threatening to kill anyone who
failed to sow his poppy. When later the magis-
trate sent to arrest him he had disappeared.
Later on, several women went to his yamen and
demanded leave to grow opium. Things looked
ugly and the magistrate appealed to the gover-
nor of the province who sent him a mandarin with
a detachment of three hundred soldiers. Several
villages combined and met the force with bucolic
weapons in hand. The mandarin became alarmed
and ordered his soldiers to fire. After a volley
of blank cartridge which only excited derision,
the troops fired ball cartridge and fifty fell killed
or mortally wounded. Both sides were aghast
at the deadliness of the rifles, which the soldiers
knew scarcely more about than the peasants.
The Chinese soldier is allowed ten cartridges a
year for practice, but after the various ' ' squeezes ' '
have been made he gets about three.
The ordinary penalty for growing poppy has
been a fine and in some cases forfeiture of the
field. Though no one has been executed for grow-
ing poppy, there have been cases in which the
156 THE CHANGING CHINESE
resisters to authority, after due trial and sentence,
have been taken out and decapitated in their own
fields and their blood has run down between the
rows of the poppy they prized more than the
public welfare.
Since the driving force behind the fight on the
poppy comes from above, radiates from the apex
of the governmental hierarchy at Peking, the
higher officials are, in general, more vigorous in
enforcing the Edict than the lower. There are
fewer of them; they can be watched, and if they
prove lukewarm they can be fined, cashiered, or
degraded. In many cases viceroys, governors and
taotais have been dismissed for lack of zeal, and
new trusty men have been put in their place for the
express purpose of putting through the govern-
mental policy. But the little local mandarins are
too numerous to be generally shaken up or cash-
iered. So many of them who have their couple of
pipes a day on the sly and want to let things
go on in the good old easy way shrink from the
risk of enforcing the Edict. Indeed, some of the
more enterprising use the threat of enforcing as
a club wherewith to blackmail the opium growers
and den-keepers. One hears of all sorts of tricks
by the small magistrates. One, on learning that
his taotai was cruising about the country looking
for poppy, saw to it that not one plant was left
within sight of the main road; but the taotai
foxily took the back road, which was lined with
poppy fields, and the tricky magistrate lost his
button of rank.
GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 157
It is easy for the magistrate when called upon
to report to clap his telescope to his blind eye,
like Nelson at Copenhagen, and declare, "I see
no poppy in my district." So sometimes the
viceroy or taotai sends out trusty commissioners
— workers in the anti-opium societies that are
standing shoulder to shoulder with the govern-
ment in the fight — to go up and down looking for
poppy. If any is discovered, it will be destroyed
and the magistrate will be punished.
The missionaries are sworn enemies of opium.
Indeed, it was the great memorial signed by 1,333
missionaries from seven countries which, pre-
sented in August, 1906, drew forth in Septem-
ber the famous Edict, some of it in the very
language of the memorial. It was fitting and
natural, then, that one of the roving commissioners
in Fokien should call on the secretary of a mis-
sionary organization and say, "I am very anxious
to find and uproot every poppy field; but I can
not go everywhere myself to locate these fields.
The local police or 'runners' are very venal and
they will find the fields, threaten owners with ex-
posure, receive their bribes for keeping still and
I shall fail in my work. Now, your missionaries
are in every part of the district I am sent to in-
spect. Please ask them for me to send to you a
report of any opium fields in their neighborhood ;
and then you give their reports to me, and I will
see that the plants are torn up." Within a few
hours a circular letter was on its way to a hun-
dred men who could not be bought nor brow-
158 THE CHANGING CHINESE
beaten, and the astonished missionaries found
themselves for once in their lives cogs in the Im-
perial Administration of China.
The completer a blockade, the greater is the
temptation to blockade-running. In like manner,
as poppy prohibition approaches success and the
price of opium jumps to several times the old
figure, the schemes to smuggle through a crop
become more and more brilliant. Perhaps the
most elaborate ruse on record was worked last
year in Szechuan, the great interior province
that only two years ago was so given over to
poppy-growing that food stuffs had reached an
almost prohibitive price. The energetic Viceroy
stamped out the poppy in every county but one —
Fouchou hsien, about four hundred miles from
the Viceroy's capital. In this county, seventy
miles across, four-fifths of the cultivated area
was in poppy last year and, as the price of opium
is from five to ten times what it was, the tricky
farmers made their fortunes.
The scheme was worked as follows : In Janu-
ary the taotai at Chungking, hearing that poppy
had been sown despite the prohibition, visited
Fouchou with soldiers, deposed the local magis-
trate, fined him seven thousand dollars and sent
out the soldiers to cut down the poppy. But the
farmers covered with earth the sprouts just com-
ing up and where the soldiers did see poppy grow-
ing they cut off the tops, but took care to cut
high enough not to kill the plant. No doubt there
were inducements. When after a week the taotai
GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 159
and his minions had departed with a fine sense
of duty performed, the farmers hastened to un-
cover the poppy sprouts. Then they planted peas,
beans, or wheat between the rows so that the
growth of these crops should later hide the poppy
bloom from any distant view. Of course there
was the new mandarin to be reckoned with. But
he, either scenting a squeeze for himself or acting
under secret orders, put out a very orthodox
proclamation that poppy was prohibited and then
announced that he would make personal inspection
in June. If he found any poppy then he would
confiscate the land and have the owners beaten.
Dear man, he knew quite well that by June all
the poppy crops would be harvested and out of
sight !
Such wiles can be worked once and no more.
The solid fact remains that in opium-steeped
Szechuan which was producing a third of the
drug produced in China the acreage has been cut
down by eighty per cent. No more incontestable
evidence of suppression can be offered than the
great upward leap in the price of opium. In
Honan we found it had doubled in a year and
was worth more than its weight in silver. At
Taiku in Shansi where no poppy grew last year
it was selling for two and a half times its weight
in silver and the pipe fiends of the rich old bank-
ing families, anticipating a long siege, had laid
in a stock to supply their needs for three years.
At Hwachow in the same province it was six
times as dear as the year before. At Sianfu in
160 THE CHANGING CHINESE
Shensi it sold at fifty cents an ounce, three or
four times the price of the previous year. At
Tehyang in Szechuan where not a spear of poppy
grows the price was 1,600 cash an ounce as against
120 cash two years ago.
It is a striking fact that in four of the great
poppy provinces prohibition has been followed
by a season of wonderful harvests which have
gone far to compensate the farmers, for their
sacrifice and so reconcile them to the reform policy.
The_ missionaries see the hand of God in this
record wheat crop running from twenty-eight to
forty bushels to the acre. This and the restora-
tion of so much land to food-growing has made
food more plentiful and cheap than it has been
for years. New trade is springing up and the
Hupeh merchants who were wont to drift every
summer through far Kansuh buying the opium
crop are now bringing back with them, instead of
the enervating drug, goat skins, eagles ' wings, pig
bristles, donkey hides, and human hair. In this
province the Chinese experts in the agricultural
school are by their experiments showing the
farmers that they can grow beet root, potatoes and
cotton instead of opium. In Fokien farmers are
obtaining from our Department of Agriculture
cotton seed for experimental planting in fields
once given over to poppy growing.
As earnest of its resolve to shake off its lethargy
and make itself fit to speak with the enemy in the
gate the Imperial Government proceeded to purge
its ranks of opium-smokers. It was felt the
GBAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 161
mandarins must set an example to the common
people. In the words of the Edict, "If the offi-
cials are fond of the vice, how can they guide
the honest folk under them?" So, while officials
over sixty years of age were tolerated in case they
found themselves unable to throw off the smoking
habit, all others were given a stated term within
which to break off. If at the end of the term
they were not cured, they were obliged to resign.
Certain results of these regulations were start-
ling. Not only were hundreds dismissed but
several high officials — among them two governors
and two vice-presidents of Imperial Boards —
died in their persevering efforts to conquer the
habit. These distressing cases caused the regula-
tions to be relaxed so as to allow smokers past
fifty to continue in office.
Nothing turns a man into a liar like the black
smoke, and it soon appeared that many an official
who could not or would not quit the pipe was
concealing his indulgence in order to keep his of-
fice and its emoluments. Suspicions and denun-
ciations became the order of the day. It was
found necessary to clear the situation by establish-
ing testing bureaus at Peking and certain pro-
vincial capitals. The suspect was obliged to sub-
mit himself to a rigid test. After being searched
for concealed opium he was locked up for three
days in a comfortable apartment and supplied
with good food but no opium. If he held out
he was given a clean bill of health, for no opium
smoker can endure three days' separation from
162
THE CHANGING CHINESE
his pipe. The strongest resolution breaks down
under the intolerable craving that recurs each
day at the hour sacred to the pipe. Eegardless
of ruin to his career the secret smoker, be he even
a viceroy or a minister, will on bended knees with
tears streaming down his cheeks beg the at-
tendant to relieve his agonies by supplying him
captives of the lamp and pipe {Native reform cartoon)
with the materials for a soothing smoke. Cer-
tain highnesses, Princes of the Blood even, were
by this means literally "smoked out" and sum-
marily cashiered. In the army prohibition has
teeth in it, for both officers and common soldiers
have been beheaded for obdurate indulgence in
the pipe.
Foochow, long a seat of missionary influence,
has made the most spectacular fight on opium.
GBAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 163
When I was there no one under penalty of
confiscation of his goods might smoke opium
without registering and taking out a permit.
Such a permit is issued only to one who can prove
that he has the opium-smoking habit. The num-
ber of his permit is posted outside the house
where he may smoke and he must not smoke any-
where else. While he is smoking no one may
visit him on any pretext, and after he is through
all his paraphernalia — pipe, bowl, lamp, opium
box, needle, etc., — must be gathered up and put
away. The aim is to lessen illicit smoking and
to discourage the indulgence by making it soli-
tary.
Opium may be sold only by licensed dealers
who account for and pay a tax on every ounce
they sell, and it may not be sold in the place where
it is smoked. No one may cook his opium him-
self; he must buy it prepared. The amount the
registered smoker may buy daily is stated in his
permit. The salesman stamps in a blank space
on his permit the amount of each purchase and it
must never exceed the amount specified. The
smoker must renew his permit every three months
and each time it must be filled out for a less
amount. After buying his opium he must carry
it through the street openly. He may not carry
it in his pocket, nor wrapped up, nor in his closed
hand, nor in a closed box. No one may make or
expose for sale the implements for opium smok-
ing. The existing supply must suffice and as this
is being reduced from time to time by solemn pub-
164 THE CHANGING CHINESE
lie burnings of stacks of paraphernalia, the basis
for the vice is continually being cut away.
Under the leadership of Lin, grandson of the
famous Imperial Commissioner who destroyed
the Indian opium, numerous anti-opium societies
sprang into existence and cooperated with the
officials. Their agents are given full authority to
force an entry to any place. Every night their
vigilance committees accompanied by policemen
to enforce their demands for admittance patrol
the -streets on the lookout for illicit selling or
smoking. At times they have been attacked and
some of them severely beaten but nothing turns
them aside. The societies collect and break up
paraphernalia seized in their raids or given up by
reformed smokers. Prom time to time the stock
on hand is stacked up in a ' public place and
solemnly burned to signalize the progress of the
campaign. Eleven burnings have taken place and
the pipes, bowls, plates, lamps, and opium boxes
sacrificed by fire are upwards of twenty -five thou-
sand. Nothing is spared and no curio seeker need
hope to rescue some rare and beautiful pipe by a
tempting bid.
Thanks to these various endeavors the amount
of opium sold in Foochow has fallen off four-
fifths and the number of opium-smoking permits
out now is less than half the number originally
issued. Hardly any but low-class people smoke.
Since no new registrations are permitted, opium
wins no recruits and its finish is in sight.
Perhaps no city matches Foochow in the clever-
GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 165
ness of its campaign. In many places the effort
was made to close the shops and dens at a single
sweep. But always, after the rejoicings and
felicitations had died away, the dens quietly re-
opened without the usual signboard and smoking
went on as before. Spasms of prohibition have
DEATH IN THE LAMP OF THE OPIUM SMOKER
(Native reform cartoon)
failed and only the process of pinching off the
evil by a gradually tightening ligature of permits
and licenses has succeeded.
The story of the fight on the dens is full of in-
cidents and alarms. In Anhwei one official went
out at night dressed as a coolie and found eight
dens filled with people. He had them all bam-
booed on the spot, giving the proprietor 300 blows
and the smokers 200. The next day not a shop
166 THE CHANGING CHINESE
was open. In Amoy the sub-prefect led raids on
places where opium smoking was going on, private
residences as well as shops. The smokers caught
were beaten and their appliances destroyed. In a
city in Hunan ten dens were secretly reopened.
The magistrate had the places raided at night, the
shops were confiscated and sold and the proprie-
tors were imprisoned, beaten and cangued. The
proceeds from the sale of the property went to
support schools and police.
Two years ago the founder of the Anti-Opium
League reported: "In one city the doors of
seven thousand dens have been shut. In other
cities from two to three thousand have been closed
while in still other cities a thousand such places
have been done away with. In a hundred thou-
sand market towns throughout the land the dens
and divans have been closed. Altogether between
one and two million places for the smoking of
opium have been removed."
Thanks to the posted proclamations and the ex-
hortations of officials to headmen and gentry, to
the warnings of missionaries, to the soap-box
oratory of reformers, to the teachings in the gov-
ernment colleges and to the preachments of the
rising native press, in many centers a public
opinion has been formed which holds up the hands
of the government. It is coming to be "bad
form" to smoke opium. It is no longer fashion-
able to pass around pipes at dinner parties and
and young men do not have to acquire the taste
as one of the polite accomplishments. A national
I
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a) a.
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GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 169
conscience is beginning to show itself and the
slave of the pipe is put to the blush. It is now
worth while to make the smoker carry his pur-
chased opium in his open hand and wear his per-
mit on a big wooden tablet that he cannot conceal.
No one has a greater horror of "losing face" than
the Chinese, and there is hope that the rising gen-
eration will shrink from opium as they shrink
from a cobra.
Think of it! In thousands upon thousands of
communities over this huge empire a battle has
been going on. On the one side poppy-growers,
den-keepers, dealers and some of the smokers ; on
the other, the thoughtful few — reformers and pa-
triots who realize China is doomed to be the
world's serf if the drug is to go on sapping the
strength of the people. Greed versus patriotism
— it is just our line-up on liquor, conservation
and child labor over again. And the people are
coming out of their stupor and their selfishness.
They are becoming unified through a common
cause. A public has come into being — a public
that cares about moral questions. Public opin-
ion, which was biting its coral three hundred years
ago in the coffee-houses of Shakespeare's London,
is taking its baby steps in China. Millions for
the first time in their lives have thought, "What
is the public good?" And mandarins, dismount-
ing from their immemorial high horse, have
called together the gentry, the merchants and the
headmen of the villages and preached to them of
righteousness, judgment and the wrath to come.
170 THE CHANGING CHINESE
When Peking allowed ten years for the cleans-
ing of the land from the opinm habit, it little
dreamed of the enthusiastic response its initiative
would call forth or of the rising spirit of patriot-
ism that would come to its aid. The accomplish-
ment of the five years elapsed has surpassed all
anticipations. The production of opium in China
has certainly been cut down sixty or seventy per
cent., and the reform leaders even insist on eighty
per cent. Millions of smokers are breaking off
because the price of the drug has risen clear out
of their reach.
But every stride towards the suppression of
poppy-growing leaves the imported Indian opium
a larger factor in the situation. In 1907, when
the exports of Indian opium to China aggregated
51,000 chests or three thousand four hundred tons,
the British Government agreed to reduce this
total export at the rate of one-tenth, or fifty-one
hundred chests, a year until 1911, with the assur-
ance that the reduction would be continued in the
same proportion beyond that period provided the
Chinese Government had within the period cut
down its home production in like degree.
In May, 1906, the House of Commons unani-
mously resolved that the Indo-Chinese opium
trade "is morally indefensible" and requested
the Government "to take such steps as may be
necessary for bringing it to a speedy close."
Nevertheless, when, in May, 1910, the Government
was asked whether, seeing that the production of
opium in China is being largely restricted, the
GKAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 171
British Government felt inclined to respond to
the desire of the Chinese Government to shorten
the period of nearly eight years during which In-
dia is to continue to send opium to China, the
Under-Secretary of State for India answered in
substance that his Majesty's Government was not
disposed to disturb the settlement arrived at.
The Christian people of Great Britain replied by
making the twenty-fourth of last October, the fif-
tieth anniversary of the ratification of the shame-
ful treaty of Tientsin, a day of humiliation
throughout the British Empire, and of prayer that
the opium trade might speedily cease. This dra-
matic stroke sent a new reform wave through
China and led to the forming of a National Anti-
Opium Society with headquarters at Peking.
The Chinese Senate in a series of most earnest
resolutions appealed to the British Government
to release China from her treaty obligations to re-
ceive Indian opium. It was pointed out that the
great crusade was nearing its crisis. The peas-
ants were becoming very restive when they saw
their little patches of opium destroyed while the
foreign merchant vessels laden with tons of the
poison are permitted freely to enter Chinese
ports.
This spring England yielded to the accumula-
ting pressure and entered into an agreement with
China whereby she consents to the imposition of
a higher duty on opium, agrees not to convey
opium to any province of China which has sup-
pressed the cultivation and import of native
172 THE CHANGING CHINESE
opium, engages to cut down the exports of opium
from India until the complete extinction of the
trade in 1917, provided China keeps step with her
in the suppression of opium growing, and even
promises to give the Indian opium trade its coup
de grace before 1917 in case proof is received that
the production of opium in China has ceased,
Thus we are about to see ' ' Finis ' ' written on one
of the blackest pages in the history of the rela-
tions between East and West.
The experience of the Chinese with opium
shatters the comfortable doctrine that organized
society need not concern itself with bad private
habits. The hand of government was withheld
for a long time in China, and if any salutary
principle of self-limitation lurked in the opium
vice it ought to have declared itself long ago. If
it were in the nature of opium-smoking to confine
its ravages to fools and weaklings, if out of each
generation it killed off the two or three per cent,
of least foresight or feeblest self-control, it might
be looked upon as the winnower of chaff; and
society might safely concede a man the right to go
to the devil in his own way and at his own pace.
But the vice is not so discriminating. Like a
gangrene it ate deeper and deeper into the social
body spreading from weak tissue to sound till the
very future of the Chinese race was at stake.
Now, liquor is to us what opium is to the yellow
man. If our public opinion and laws had been
so long inert with respect to alcohol as China has
been with respect to opium, we might have suf-
GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 173
fered quite as severely as have the Chinese. The
lesson from the Orient is that when society real-
izes a destructive private habit is eating into its
vitals, the question to consider is not whether to
attack that habit, but howl
CHAPTER VII
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA
A FEW years ago there was a great rising
in Kansuh, the northwest province. The
Mohammedan rebels closed in on the capital, Lan-
chow, slaughtering whom they met. The terrified
countrymen fled for life to its protecting walls,
but the women, on account of their poor bound
feet, fell behind and, failing to arrive before the
gates shut, were butchered at the very threshold.
While the shrieking women beat despairingly upon
the iron-bound doors as they saw their blood-
thirsty pursuers drawing near, hundreds of an-
guished husbands who had outrun their crippled
wives knelt before the English missionary and
begged him to urge the Governor to open the gates
and let the late-comers in. The missionary ex-
plained how this would let the cutthroats in too,
and added, "You would have your wives small-
footed, wouldn't you? Well, this is your punish-
ment. ' '
That prince of diplomats, Minister Wu, used
to stir his American audiences with the remark,
"Yes, we bind our women's feet; but you bind
your women's waists. Which is the worse?"
And we would look guiltily at one another and say,
"Now, there is something in that." The fact is,
174
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 175
that with us tight lacing affects only the one in
ten who would be fashionable ; while in China foot-
binding bore on nine out of ten. And tight lacing
is self-imposed ; while foot-binding is a mutilation
forced on helpless children.
The Hakka women of southern Kuangtung do
not bind their feet. In Canton, only the daughters
of the well-to-do follow the custom and it was five
days ere I saw a bound foot. You can go thence
up the West Eiver five hundred miles and never see
a woman hobble. In the extreme North of China
again, the Manchu women leave the foot natural
and this, perhaps, is why they are so big, healthy
and comely. In the rest of the Empire, foot-
binding has been not the folly of the idle, nor the
fad of the fashionable, but a custom that bore upon
all classes, poor and rich alike. At Kalgan on
the Mongolian frontier the field women work kneel-
ing, with great pads over the knees to protect them
from the damp soil. In three districts in Kansuh,
women are still crawling about their houses upon
their knees, reduced to the locomotion of brutes to
please the perverted taste of men ! In Shansi and
Shensi, I saw the women wielding the sickle, not
stooping — that would hurt their poor feet too
much — but sitting, and hitching themselves along
as they reaped. The women had to be carried to
the wheat field on wheelbarrow or cart, and their
helplessness is such that most of them never in
their lives get a mile away from the house to
which they were taken as brides.
In the course of the morning we would meet
176 THE CHANGING CHINESE
perhaps a thousand men, but not three women.
They cannot get from town to town unless car-
ried. They hobble about their village a little,
steadying themselves by a hand on the house-walls,
or leaning on a staff. They move stiff -kneed like
one on stilts. In our walk there is a point in the
stride when the weight of the body comes upon
the ball of the foot and the toes, and at this mo-
ment the other leg is bent and swings forward.
But in their case, the front part of the foot being
useless, the other foot is brought forward sooner,
and hence little knee action is necessary. This
is why the woman seems tottering on pegs. This,
too, is why the muscles of the' calf never develop,
from the knee down the legs are broomsticks, and
there are folds of superfluous skin.
They tell us these tiny deformed feet appeal to
the aesthetic in man. I doubt it. Take the poor
mountaineer of western Shensi. Are we to sup-
pose that this frowy dweller in a cave in the loess,
this sloven denizen of a thatched hut with dirt
floor, smoke-blackened and cobweb-festooned
walls, a tattered paper window, a mud kang under
a verminous mat and a couple of stools, where
the pig and the dog dispute with the fowls the
crumbs brushed from the master's grimy table —
are we to suppose that this unlettered hind is so
sensitive to beauty that at the cost of fighting the
battle for existence with a crippled partner at his
side, he insists on having a wife who, below the
coarse garment of an Indian squaw, exhibits the
' 'golden lily" of a four-inch foot!
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 177
Is it any wonder that, crippled, crushed by con-
ventional restrictions and regarded with contempt,
such a woman shows none of the home-making in-
stinct that in America brightens even the log hut
of the mountain backwoodsman with crazy quilts,
rag carpets, tidies and old newspapers scissored
into ornamental patterns and pasted around the
clock shelf or over the windows? One notes no
effort to adorn, no bit of white or color, no sign
of "woman's hand." There is not even a fam-
ily meal, but each fills his bowl from the rice
bucket and lounges about eating when he pleases.
Man has confined the woman so closely to the
home that she knows not how to make a "home."
The Chinese have a saying, "For each pair of
bound feet there has been shed a tubful of tears."
Very likely, since the bandaging begins between
the fifth and the seventh years, and, after three
years of misery, the front part of the foot and
the heel ought to be so forced together that a dol-
lar will stick in the cleft. Says Mrs. Little, who
fifteen years ago founded the T'ien Tau Hui
(Natural Foot Society) : "During these three
years the girlhood of China presents a most mel-
ancholy spectacle. Instead of a hop, skip, and a
jump, with rosy cheeks like the little girls of Eng-
land, the poor little things are leaning heavily on
a stick somewhat taller than themselves, or car-
ried on a man's back, or sitting, sadly crying.
They have great black lines under their eyes, and
a special curious paleness that I have never seen
except in connection with foot-binding. Their
178 THE CHANGING CHINESE
mothers mostly sleep with a big stick by the bed-
side, with which to get up and beat the little girl
should she disturb the household by her wails;
but not uncommonly she is put to sleep in an out-
house. The only relief she gets is either from
opium or from hanging her feet over the edge of
her wooden bedstead so as to stop the circulation.
They say one girl in ten dies from the process ;
but, worse yet, a descendant of Confucius tells
me that in Shansi girl babies are sometimes killed
• at birth precisely because foot-binding so harrows
up the feelings of the parents ! No wonder that
on account of exaggerated foot-binding the women
there are "extra dirty and extra lazy." They
pass their lives on the hang, take no exercise and
never get fresh air or a change of scene save on a
rare festival day when the well-to-do are driven
out in a springless Peking cart.
One motive only induces a mother to impose
such suffering on her little daughter — the fear of
her not winning a husband. Until lately only
prostitutes and slaves had natural feet, and a
girl with such feet stood no better chance of mar-
riage than a hunchback. A bridegroom finding
that his bride had normal feet when he expected
"golden lilies" would be justified by public opin-
ion in returning the girl to her parents. But not
even the bridegrooms are chiefly to blame. If
Jack chose his Jill there would be some chance for
the natural-foot girl. Many things enter into sex
charm and young men would never have become
so conventionalized but that a cherry lip, a roguish
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 179
eye, or a quick wit might have offset the handicap
of a natural foot. But Chinese matches are made
entirely by parents, so, in the final analysis, this
terrible cross — the heaviest that has ever been
laid on woman in a state of civilization — has been
laid on the girlhood of China by the denatured
taste of middle-aged fathers, each bound that his
son shall have as modish a wife as the next one !
Thanks to foreign influence, thoughtful men be-
came aroused to the evils of the custom and a few
years ago an edict of the Empress Dowager
commanded the people to abandon it. The mis-
sionaries, who used to be tender of native cus-
toms, have stiffened their attitude. They preach
against it, denounce it in their Bible classes, and
some even refuse membership to the woman who
presents herself at the altar with bound feet.
Nowadays the woman independent enough to turn
Christian generally has the courage to unbind.
In most mission schools no bound-foot girl is ad-
mitted. Others admit them, but the feeling runs
so high among the pupils that soon every girl who
is not hindered by a conservative relative unbinds.
One such school invited the officials and gentry
to its closing exercises, consisting of marching,
calisthenics and choruses by the pupils. Two of
the little girls had bound feet. The contrast be-
tween their pathetic helplessness and the lithe
grace of the pretty rosy-cheeked girls who wheeled,
turned, and tripped their way through the mazes
was so impressive that on the spot the mandarin
declared, "Foot-binding must go." Within five
180 THE CHANGING CHINESE
days the gentry — so as not to be beholden to the
missionaries — opened a girl's school of their own.
Last year the government ordered that no
foot-bound girl be received into any of its schools.
The npper classes seethe with rebellion against
the senseless custom. Progressive ladies throw
away bandages, massage their feet with oil, and
vie with one another in recovering the natural
foot. Think of a group of Chinese women
eagerly comparing feet to see whose are larg-
est! In China innovators must face insult and
abuse. A girl with natural feet venturing on
the streets of Wanhsien on the upper Yangtse
had her clothes nearly torn from her back.
Even the wives of mandarins make ready stock-
ings and shoes but put off unbinding until they
can find other ladies who will join them. So, for
mutual support, the society people in a town fre-
quently unite in a "Natural Foot Society" and
pledge themselves to unbind and not to bind their
daughters' feet. To brighten the matrimonial
prospects of such girls, fathers sometimes pledge
one another not to betroth their sons to girls with
squeezed feet. These local societies enlist influ-
ential persons, import neat patterns of Western
ladies' shoes, hold meetings, circulate tracts, and
encourage officials to make a public stand. The
T'ien Tau Hui, which is now run by the Chinese,
circulates upwards of thirty pieces of literature,
edicts, proclamations, placards, poems, folders;
some in local dialect, some in Mandarin, some in
"Wenli, the language of scholars; written by offi-
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 181
cials, by missionaries, by physicians and by na-
tive reformers. Eoentgen-ray illustrations of the
bound foot and the natural foot, portrayal of the
sufferings from bandaging, description of the in-
jury to the general health, arguments showing
the loss in woman's practical usefulness, com-
parison of foot-binding to the mutilations of sav-
age tribes — all manner of appeals are made. As
ulceration, gangrene and death are tragic inci-
dents of the practice, the "anti" movement de-
velops warmth and emotion. There are poems on
the " sorrows of foot-binding" which move peo-
ple to tears, and one of these has been set to music
and is sung with great effect.
Speaking broadly, the reform has not reached
farther than the cities and the higher classes.
Much of the open country is not yet aware there
is such a movement. The poor fear ridicule and,
besides, they hope to get a better bride-price for
their girls. "Where child-betrothal prevails the
parents of a girl feel they have no right to dis-
appoint the expectations of the boy's family.
Thus people are tied together and each hesitates
to follow his common sense. One Fokien village
petitioned the Viceroy to command them to unbind
their daughters' feet. All disapproved of the
cruel custom but no one had the courage to lead
the way.
Chinese from the big coast ports, where West-
ern influence is ascendant, will tell you in good
faith that foot-binding has nearly died out. The
fact is the release of the overwhelming majority
182 THE CHANGING CHINESE
of its victims is yet to come. Doctor Morrison,
China correspondent of the London Times and a
recognized authority, after traversing the central
provinces of the Empire not long ago recorded it
as his deliberate opinion that 95 per cent, of the
females of the Empire above the age of eight are
still mutilated. I think his estimate too high, but
I feel sure that three-fourths of them are still so
bound. It is safe to say that at the present mo-
ment there are in China seventy million pairs of
deformed, aching, and unsightly feet — the sac-
rifice exacted of its womanhood by a depraved
masculine taste. The wiser anticipate that it will
be more than a generation ere the custom dies out.
Japan is in the forty-third year of its Era of En-
lightenment ; yet outside the cities you meet great
numbers of women who at marriage followed the
old custom of staining their teeth black in token
they have forever renounced the thought of at-
tracting the other sex.
But cotton bandages are not the only bonds on
the women of China.
On a sultry July morning after passing the
sedan chairs of an official and his wife I meet a
coolie carrying two little cloth-covered boxes bal-
anced on the bamboo across his shoulder. In
each is a child of five or six. The boy's box has
a tiny open window that allows him to get air and
see what is passing; but the window of the other
box is screened. His little sister has to endure
the heat and the dark because she is a female and
propriety commands it. Shut away from light
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 183
and knowledge — how symbolic of the lot of the sex
in China!
If in passing a Shensi shop one looks for a mo-
ment at a woman who is not a grandmother, she
turns hastily and slips back into the gloom of the
women's apartment. To endure the glance of a
man is immodest. Towards the close of a stifling
day the village women come out of their houses
and sit on a mat in front sewing and enjoying the
coolness. If one of them sees a foreigner coming
she scurries into the house as a frighted quail
ducks and dodges into the stubble. Even girls of
nine shrink away into the interior of the house if
your eye lights on them. "When the harvest is in
full swing every hand is needed and by dawn
mothers and grandmothers, tads and tots, pile into
a cart and are off with the men folks to the field.
But never a female of from ten to twenty-five is to
be seen, and one might suppose they had all been
carried off by a plague.
On the occasion of a special church service for
old people, the hospitable wife of a college presi-
dent in Poochow innocently plans to serve the vis-
itors tea at her house, the men in one room, the
women in another. But it appears that the gath-
ering of these aged people under one roof, al-
though in different rooms, clashes with Chinese
notions of propriety. So far have they carried
the estrangement of the sexes.
A Hakka tells me that among his people the
etiquette in the country districts forbids husband
and wife to be seen talking together. Thus a
184 THE CHANGING CHINESE
young man and his wife meet in an empty lane
and, supposing themselves unobserved, he asks
her for the key of the garden gate. She throws
it on the ground without looking at him and, once
indoors, rates him roundly for speaking to her in
public. ' ' Suppose, ' ' she says, l ' someone had seen
us!"
A woman never thinks of shaking hands with
a man. If a gentleman wishes to give a lady a
fan, he does not hand it to her lest their hands
touchy but places it beside her. This sort of thing
was made so much of that about the time of Aris-
totle a local prude asked Mencius, "If one's sister-
in-law is drowning, ought she to be drawn out
with the hand?" To which the sage sensibly re-
plied, "It is wolfish not to draw out a drowning
sister-in-law. ' '
Brothers and sisters are separated at eight or
ten years of age and thenceforth associate only
under formal conditions. In Chinese literature
nothing is suggestive save the love-songs — this
because the canons of propriety never gave lati-
tude for courting and love making, so they were
scandalous from the first. One never sees a du-
bious photograph of a Chinese woman, even of a
Magdalen. Our illustrated corset and underwear
advertisements shock the Chinese, and no lady
missionary shows them the photograph of a sister
or friend taken in decollete. What notions of our
modesty they gather from our undraped statuary,
paintings of the nude, theatrical posters, and bal-
lets, may be imagined.
a
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.
One of the south gates into the Tartar city, Peking
Temple of Five Hundred Genii, Canton
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 193
by their smallness and frailness. They were of
a stature with American girls of fourteen or
fifteen. They seemed hardly larger than the
women of Japan, though their men folk are much
bigger than the Japanese men. It is not clear
whether this diminutiveness is due to a prefer-
ence for the little operating through many gener-
ations, or to foot-binding, confinement, and lack
of exercise during the growing period.
In the Chinese family male predominance is
mitigated by the sanctity of age. After the wife
becomes the mother of a boy, her status rises and
she is the envy of the women of India and Persia.
Filial piety is owed as much to the mother as to
the father. The mother, and still more the grand-
mother, is nearly co-equal with her spouse in au-
thority over her children. The detestable Ori-
ental doctrine of the "Three Obediences," that
woman is never to be free, but must pass her life
under the tutelage, first of father, then of hus-
band, and finally of son — does not hold in its last
clause for the daughters of Han.
As for the girl, bride, and wife, however, con-
ventionality binds their hearts quite as cruelly
as their feet. Because the married daughter
with her children is lost to her parents and or-
dinarily cannot care for them in their old age,
from a tenth to a twentieth of the girl-babies —
this on Chinese authority — are abandoned or
done away with from economic reasons; but a
boy-baby, never. Then, to escape the bother of
raising a girl for some other family's benefit, it
194 THE CHANGING CHINESE
is quite common for the poor to give up their fe-
male children to parents who want to rear wives
for their sons. There are whole districts where
never more than one daughter in a family is
reared by her parents. This early separation
of a girl from her natural parents is excused on
the ground that it spares the shock of separa-
tion when she marries! The girl thus reared in
the future bridegroom's family is likely to be
treated as a drudge and naturally, from the
first,- she is subjected to the whims of her in-
tended. I heard of a boy of six saying to the
nurse-girl who had neglected his intended, aged
two, "Why don't you look after my wife better?"
In case the boy dies, the "widowed" girl's hand
is disposed of by his parents and in the match
little is considered save the bride-price.
Even when the girl is reared at home, she is
liable to be betrothed at an early age, and this
grotesque practice is fraught with the most sin-
ister possibilities. In one case, the son of a na-
tive presiding elder was betrothed when a child
to a little girl. At the proper age they were mar-
ried, and then it was found that the bride was an
idiot, her mental growth having been arrested
by an attack of scarlet fever years before. After
a year the son could stand it no longer and the
girl was sent back to her parents. The action
was denounced as a breach of custom and the
elder had to stand a church trial. He was found
guilty, every Chinese voting against him and
every missionary for him! Again, the little
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 195
daughter of a farmer was betrothed to the son
of a chair coolie. She showed talent, studied,
rose in the schools, was helped through college,
took a medical course and became a successful
physician. Nevertheless, when the time came, she
was obliged by inexorable custom to bow to the
arrangement made for her in infancy and ruin
her life by marrying a dolt too worthless to hold
even a chair-bearer's job.
There is pathos in the rising protest of the Chi-
nese girl against early betrothal. She does not
resent being yoked for life to a man she has never
seen. But she does beg of her parents a hus-
band who is fit for her now and a family-in-law
that is now equal in social standing to her own,
instead of being handed about in pursuance of a
bargain entered into years before when no one
could tell what her intended or his family might
become.
At best the maiden's marriage is arranged for
her with a young man eligible so far as the pro-
fessional match-maker can be trusted; and there
is a proverb, "Ten match-makers, eleven liars."
The horoscopes of the young people are com-
pared, a card bearing the name and age of the
girl lies for three days in front of the suitor's
ancestral tablets, and if no ill omen appears she
is taken. Not until the wedding does either
know the other's name or look upon the other's
face. No wooing, no love-making, no romance.
Are they happy? Some observers — Germans
and English, mark you, not American — judge that
196 t THE CHANGING CHINESE
such matches turn out as well as our own matings
of free choice. They argue from the general
domestic peace, and from the distress some hus-
bands show when their wives are about to un-
dergo a hospital operation. At such a crisis the
hidden affection meets the eye. So they infer
that the adaptability of the sexes in heart matters,
when their expectations have not been keyed
high, is greater than we have supposed. Now,
it must be acknowledged that how happy we can
be in our lot depends much on our notion of hap-
piness. Miss Plumblossom has never included
romantic love, tenderness and chivalry in her
idea of a good husband; and so, provided he
doesn't beat her and she has children upon whom
she can lavish the pent-up wealth of her affection,
she may find life tolerable.
Still, forcing the natural feelings is a danger-
ous business. The self-sacrifice and self-efface-
ment that preserves domestic harmony in China
is borne chiefly by the wives. The constant ef-
fort at self-control and the ruthless repression
of the feelings cost something. "Witness the nu-
merous suicides of young wives. They throw
themselves into wells or canals, or swallow raw
opium. When the opium is harvested, there is
a crop of female suicides. Insanity is distress-
ingly frequent among women. The prevalence
of neurasthenia among ladies refutes the saying
that the Chinese have no nerves. Doctors as-
sert there is much heart lesion among women
owing to emotional stress and sorrowing. The
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 197
faces of wives are stamped with pain, patience
and gentle resignation rather than happiness.
Chinese women tell me the confidences made to
them and their friends betray widespread unhap-
piness. The custom of "crying one's wrongs"
is significant. When a woman simply cannot
stand it any longer, she proclaims her woes to
the world. A thousand miles up the Yangtse
I saw the wife of a tea-house keeper stand on the
bank and yell to hundreds of grinning sampan
people her opinion of the man. Hurrying
through a hamlet late at night we came upon a
solitary woman ululating her grievances to high
heaven. Lights were out and all were asleep
but she stood, lonely and pathetic, in the dark-
ness repeating her cry, and took no notice of us
by-passers.
The disposal of superfluous female infants is a
great strain on the mothers. In the presence of
a lady missionary whom they supposed ignorant
of their dialect a number of country-women fell
to confessing the number of girl babies they had
made away with. Finally she could contain her-
self no longer and cried, "Oh, how could you be
so cruel !" The women turned on her with al-
most savage vehemence. "Do you think we
didn't care? Would we do it if we didn't know
the new one would take the rice out of the mouths
of the others?" "Since then," the lady added,
"I appreciate how infanticide is forced on par-
ents by economic pressure."
For the Chinese bride her mother-in-law is no
198 THE CHANGING CHINESE
joking matter. At sixteen or seventeen the girl
becomes virtually the slave of this woman, and
her husband dares not utter a word on her be-
half. When the baby comes, it is not hers to
rear; it is to be brought up just as her husband's
mother says. The educated Christian girl is
loath to marry into a heathen family for fear of
having to misrear or lose her children under the-
dictate of an ignorant and superstitious mother-
in-law. The situation is really impossible and
breeds dark tragedies. A woman doctor tells
of being summoned in haste by a frantic husband
and finding the young wife in travail with her
mother-in-law sitting on her. The girl was roll-
ing her eyes, and if the harridan had not been
pulled off she would have died in a few minutes.
Still, there are checks on a harsh mother-in-law.
If the wife's family is strong, they can make her
much trouble. Then the threat of suicide is
potent, for one who commits suicide on your ac-
count can haunt you. Besides it makes a great
scandal. A friend of mine saw a woman whose
daughter-in-law had killed herself on her account
beat the dead girl's face in impotent rage at be-
ing thus foiled and brought to shame.
In the West suicides are three or four times
as frequent among men as among women, part
of the difference answering no doubt to a real
difference in the psychology of the sexes. That
among the Chinese suicide is five or ten times
as frequent among females as among males
throws a piercing ray of light on the happiness
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 201
of women in a man-made world. Most of these
are young married women and young widows.
The former take their lives because they are un-
happy, the latter usually because they think it
the fitting thing to do. (For, mark you, it is not
yet two centuries since it was decreed that offi-
cial honors were no longer to be conferred upon
widows who slew themselves at their husband's
death.) Now, the bonds that drive the brides
to desperation and the ideas of wifely propriety
that impel young widows to make away with
themselves originated in the minds of men and
have never been molded by so much as a feather's
touch by the sex they affect. This great pre-
ponderance of female suicide is a grim com-
mentary on the theory that the happiness of
women lies in their guardianship by the other sex.
Nothing could be plainer than that woman's
lot in China is not of her own fashioning, but has
been shaped by male tastes and prejudices, with-
out regard to what the women themselves think
about it. The men have determined woman's
sphere as well as man's. The ancient sages —
all men — molded the institutions that bear upon
women, and it is male comment, not really pub-
lic opinion, that enforces the conventionalities
that crush her. By wit, will, or worth, the in-
dividual woman may slip from under the thumb
of the individual man — there are many such
cases — but never could the sex free itself from the
domination of the male sex. The men had all
the artillery — the time-hallowed teachings and
202 THE CHANGING CHINESE
institutions, — and all the small arms — current
opinion and comment. Cribbed and confined, the
women were without schooling, locomotion, ac-
quaintance, conversation, stimulus, contact with
affairs, access to ideas, or opportunity to work
out their own point of view.
It is not that the individual man selfishly rules
the woman. It is not even that the one sex has de-
liberately brought the other into subjection. It
is rather that men, regarding themselves as the
"Yang" principle of the species, and perfectly
sure * of their own superiority in wisdom and
virtue, have settled what is fit and proper, not
only for themselves, but for women too.
It all came out beautifully in a conversation I
had with a Chinese gentleman who is promoting
a revival of Confucianism. I admitted that the
Chinese have better ideas than we as to what
children owe their parents. "Still," I added,
"you '11 admit, we have juster ideas as to the
treatment of women." "Not at all," he replied.
"The place Confucianism assigns to women is
more reasonable than that of the Christian West. ' '
"But why should women be so subordinated?"
"Because women are very hard to control.
You can never tell what they will be up to. At
the bottom of every trouble, there is a woman."
"Isn't that due," I asked, "to your depriving
women of the educational opportunities which
they once enjoyed?"
"No, it was precisely experience of the dif-
ficulty of keeping women under control when
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 203
they are educated that led our forefathers to les-
sen their schooling. ' '
"Then you would shut girls out of school ?"
"No, I wouldn't go so far," he replied. "Let
them be taught to read and write. ' '
"Nothing more?"
"Possibly. But it should be very different
from the education given to boys. ' '
"For example?"
"Why, teach the girl household arts and ethics
so she will know her duties as daughter, wife and
mother. ' '
"Would you teach her her rights as well as her
duties?" I insinuated.
"No, no. That is quite unnecessary."
My frank Confucian went on to deplore that
nowadays in Hong Kong Chinese ladies come
and go in the streets "just like harlots."
" Surely," I protested, "such freedom makes
them happier and that is something." "No, the
unity of the family should be put above individual
happiness, and that unity is found in the unop-
posed will of the husband."
How Roman it all is — just the views that Livy
puts in the mouth of Cato the Elder I 1 Man, the
i" Recollect all the institutions respecting the sex, by which
our forefathers restrained them and subjected them to their hus-
bands; and yet, even with the help of all these restrictions, they
can scarcely be kept within bounds. If, then, you suffer them to
throw these off one by one, to tear them all asunder, and, at last, to be
set on an equal footing with yourselves, can you imagine that they
will be any longer tolerable? Suffer them once to arrive at an
equality with you, and they will from that moment become your
superiors."
204 THE CHANGING CHINESE
main stem of the race, woman, a "side issue," as
Prentice put it. When, a couple of years ago,
the prefect proposed a school for girls at Feng-
siangfu, an old scholar exclaimed "Open a girls'
school ! "When women take to reading, what will
there be for the men to do f ' '
Of course, hearing men harp on it so much,
Chinese women come to believe they are stupid
and need control. Still, some find their way to
a sense of grievance, even when no foreigner has
put into their heads the idea of "rights."
'Some years ago nine Cantonese maidens
drowned themselves together one night in the
Pearl River rather than accept the lot of the wife.
In three districts in central Kuangtung, where a
girl can always get work at silk-winding, thou-
sands of girls have formed themselves into anti-
matrimonial associations, the members of which
refuse to live with the husband more than the
customary three days. Then they take advantage
of their legal right "to visit mother" and never
return save on certain days or after a term of
years. If the parents attempt to restore the run-
away bride to her husband she drowns herself or
takes opium ; so parents and magistrates have had
to let the girls have their way. By presenting
herself in her husband's home on certain festival
days the bride keeps her wifely status, and if her
spouse takes to himself a more tractable mate,
she becomes the "number one" wife, and the mis-
tress of the other.
It is a striking illustration of what women can
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 205
do when they have a chance at self-support. In
general, however, it is foreign influence rather
than industrial opportunity that is emancipating
the women. Christianity is doing its share.
The reading of the New Testament exalts women
in their own eyes and in the eyes of others. The
radiant peace and uplift of soul I have seen on
some Christian faces reveal what a moral treasure
the Chinese have kept locked up all these cen-
turies. I do not wonder that villagers took a
certain saintly Bible woman to be ' ' some relative
of God." The missionary home is a silent but
telling object lesson. After a woman missionary
had been talking to a group of women about
Heaven, one of them said, "It would be heaven
enough for me to have my husband walk beside
me on the street as yours does with you." The
converts are taught to cherish their daughter and
to give her schooling. They are forbidden to
override her will in marriage and are urged to
inquire into the young man's disposition and
to consider whether he can make her happy.
The girl is to see him, or at least hear all
about him, and may reject him without incurring
reproach.
As in foot-unbinding, so in mind-unbinding,
the missionaries have been pioneers. The early
pupils of their schools are now grandmothers,
while the first class of non-mission girls was
graduated only three years ago. At first, to be
sure, they administered knowledge in homeopathic
doses. In the early years of one school the girls
206 THE CHANGING CHINESE
were taught to read, but not to write, lest they
pen notes to the boys ! In the same school they
taught just Bible, and the girls memorized great
quantities. The pupils could repeat you Genesis
by the hour, skipping from Ch. IX to Ch. XVII,
if you liked, and taking up the thread again with
perfect readiness. Twenty years ago the course
was enriched by natural theology, Church history,
arithmetic, geography and music. Five years ago
English and history were added. In another
school — British — I found the girls feasting from
the following menu: "Forenoon — New Testa-
ment, text with exposition. Afternoon — Old
Testament history."
The missionaries feel the ground swell of the
great "woman's movement" at home and their
ideas are continually broadening. Granted they
have taught the girls obedience and are proud
when parents report that their daughter from the
mission school is the most dutiful of their children.
But every lady principal of a mission school is at
heart a sworn enemy of the Chinese subjection of
women. That is not her role, of course, and she
will fence with you at first; but finally, if you
seem trustworthy, she will own up. She does not
egg the girls on to assert this or that right, but
she strives to build up in them a personality that
will not accept the old status. One doctor in
charge of a women's medical school exhorts her
young women to shun marriage on the present
terms. When a mission-school girl horrifies her
family by refusing to abide by a child-betrothal,
No chance for them
Joss house, Foochow, and Baby Tower where girl infants
are thrown when not wanted
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 209
her teachers, though never interfering, give her
"moral support."
Education, of course, delays marriage. Ten
years ago, most of the girls entered the high
school betrothed, but now they are teasing their
parents to give them an education first, and many
girls of nineteen or twenty are not yet engaged.
One begins even to meet the Chinese school-mis-
tress, who teaches awhile before marrying. "With
the establishing of numerous schools for girls by
the Chinese themselves within the last five years,
there has come a great demand for educated
Chinese women, and the graduates of the mission
schools are sought as teachers, matrons, and even
principals. Fathers who turned a deaf ear to
their daughter's plea for an education are relent-
ing now that they hear of the fine salaries educated
young women are bringing to their parents.
The taste for the prettyfied, insipid doll-wife is
going out wherever the other type is known. The
college young man prefers an educated wife and in
the matrimonial market the girls with schooling go
off like hot cakes. The lady principal, who used
to receive such inquiries only from parents, is now
frequently called upon by very polite young men
who inquire minutely into the scholarship and
accomplishments of this or that pupil. Can she
sing 1 ? Can she play the piano? Does she know
English? Formerly the inquirer mentioned the
girl as "the daughter of So-and-So"; now he
speaks of her as ' ' Miss So-and-So. ' ' The smitten
never addresses himself directly to the charmer,
210 THE CHANGING CHINESE
but his parents negotiate with her parents and
presently the wedding cards are out.
Inch by inch the old customs are yielding.
Courtship is unheard of ; but here and there young
people converse under parental eyes. Even when
they may not talk together, they are permitted
to see each other across a room; or photographs
are exchanged. In any case, the young people in-
sist on knowing what kind of a parti is proposed
for them. The rearing marriage and the child-
betrothal have vanished from enlightened circles.
Strange to relate, the high school girls do not
greatly object to a match arranged for them.
What they are wildly athirst for is not Romance
so much as Freedom. Freedom from parents,
from husband, from mother-in-law, from strang-
ling conventionalities. They hear of the larger
life open to their sisters of the West and they
wildly beat their tender wings against the gilded
wires of their cage.
The new opportunities alter the relation of
mother to daughter. The mother is old-fashioned
and no mentor for Angelina. As an educated
young lady put it, ' * Really, it is the daughter who
must act the chaperone. Mother's ideas of pro-
priety and conversation are so different from
those of the new conditions that I am having con-
tinually to make suggestions to her."
In Tientsin, Hong Kong and Shanghai, girls of
the well-to-do classes imagine that "Western
style" means pure freedom, and do not realize
the unspoken restraints our young people are
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 211
under. These " liberty girls," as they are called,
think they must settle their heart affairs by them-
selves, quite unaware how often parental guid-
ance prevents our daughters making a mistake.
Sometimes, indeed, to get any freedom at all in
heart matters, the girl has to elope, and naturally
such matches rarely turn out well. One school-
girl, in order to avoid having a distasteful mar-
riage forced upon her, ran off to Japan with two
students and from there wrote her parents that she
had n't yet made up her mind which she loved best
and would marry !
Towards spring the water of a frost-bound
Northern lake becomes so deoxygenated that if a
hole is cut in the ice the fishes press so frantically
to the life-giving air that some are pushed out on
to the ice. Nevertheless, oxygen is good for fish.
Just so, when foreign example breaks a hole in
the rigid custom that confines Chinese woman-
hood, the eager rush of young women toward the
life-giving liberty and knowledge may leave some
of them clear outside their native element.
Nevertheless, liberty and knowledge are good for
young women.
The schools under missionary control, however,
meet the current need better than the govern-
ment schools. A noble Chinese woman physician,
a graduate of the University of Michigan, tells
me that at their own girls ' schools the girls learn
license rather than liberty. She makes the point
that only a Christian education gives the girls the
moral restraints that are necessary if they are to
212 THE CHANGING CHINESE
be free from the old tutelage. She is right. It is
a trying world the educated Chinese girl enters,
for the young men are far from ready to appre-
ciate her or show her the delicacy and chivalry that
environ our American girls. "How long will it
be," I asked a Manchu lady familiar with life East
and West, "before your mothers will let their
daughters go buggy-riding of an evening with
your college boys?" Like a flash came the an-
swer, l ' A hundred years ! ' '
Among the thoughtful the conviction spreads
that China can never be great while the mothers
of each generation are left ignorant and uncared
for. They are coming to realize the role of the
mother in molding the character of her sons.
China needs, above all, men, of a high unwaver-
ing integrity, and she will not grow them while
the impressible boyhood years are passed in
the company of an unschooled, narrow-minded, de-
spised, neglected woman. Certain missionaries
overlooked, at first, the strategic position of the
mother, and were presently horrified to find the
children of Christian men reverting to heathenism
because their mothers had been left untaught !
We know that the mothers of Confucius and
Mencius had a great share in forming the charac-
ter of their illustrious sons, and it is significant
that the Chinese have brought forth not one
great man since they took to binding the feet and
the minds of their daughters. All who work
with the women of the yellow race are enthu-
siastic over their possibilities. But no testi-
One of two hundred day schools organized by a
Foochow missionary
A bride's canopy, Peking
UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 215
monials are needed. Their faces are full of
character — as fine as the faces of women any-
where. All the railroads that may be built, all
the mines that may be opened, all the trade that
may be fostered, cannot add half as much to the
happiness of the Chinese people as the cultiva-
tion of the greatest of their " undeveloped re-
sources ' ' — their womanhood.
CHAPTER IX
CHEISTIANITY IN CHINA
IT was vesper service at the Lama temple in
Peking. A score of young priests, with
shaven polls, sat on low benches amid the shining
altars, images, and candelabra, while the sweet
incense wreathed and rose before the great golden
Buddha. Cross-legged on a dais, sat the leader,
a wrinkled Thibetan, arrayed in gorgeous vest-
ments of gold brocade. Before each cantor lay a
pile of long parchment slips, containing the even-
ing liturgy in Thibetan characters. The words
of the service were chanted rapidly in unison, in
a deep, musical tone, and the effect was like the
droning of bees from a thousand hives. Ever
and anon came bursts of wild clangor that went
through one like a knife; cymbals would clash,
drums would throb, and horns of fantastic
Chaldean shape would snarl. It was a tapestry,
— for the ear, not for the eye, — weird arabesques
of instrumental sound thrown against a back-
ground of deep droning.
Over against these set the achievements of a
certain Swedish-American missionary I found in
a district town in the most opium-ridden and foot-
bound province of China. After eight years of
work he has gathered a band of two hundred
216
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 217
Chinese Christians, most of them men and from
the country. Thirty are school-teachers, of
whom twelve have the first degree. Many of
his members are prominent people, though none
are officials. The mandarins are very friendly,
but he is slow to cultivate intimacy with them,
lest his converts who have lawsuits should im-
portune him for his " influence." He allows
none of his flock to disobey the Anti-Opium Edict,
and lately he cast out twenty members for grow-
ing poppy. Recently he had a revival in his
church, and many openly confessed their sins
and made reparation. There is nothing flabby
about the Christianity that prompts men to lay
bare murder and robbery. Being a follower of
Luther, he does not require his flock to keep the
Sabbath in the Puritan sense. He maintains an
opium refuge, where in the winter one hundred
and sixteen smokers were treated from a month
to six weeks, and most were permanently cured.
There is a school where thirty girls follow a nine-
years course. At his instigation, a "natural-
foot" society was formed among the leading
Chinese, and two hundred non-Christian girls
and women have unbound their feet. Who will
deny that this is "religion pure and undefiled'"?
The religious plane of the Chinese will hardly
command the admiration of any Occidental, how-
ever catholic his sympathy. The followers of
Confucius, it is true, promulgate a pure and
lofty morality, but Confucianism is not really a
religion at all, but an ethical system, and has,
218 THE CHANGING CHINESE
moreover, little authority outside the learned
clan. Taoism, starting as mysticism, has degen-
erated into a hotch-potch of the crudest and
tawdriest superstitions. As for the Buddhism
of China, let no one look to find in it the golden
thoughts of the Great Teacher or even the spir-
itual elevation of the Buddhism one finds to-day
in Burma and Japan. To the spirit of the Sutras
it is about as foreign as the Coptic church
of Abyssinia is to the spirit of the Gospels. Not
one„ priest in a hundred has any glimmering of
the Eight-fold Path. The nunneries have a very
bad name. Only now and then in the monaster-
ies does one come upon reminiscences of the great
traditions of the faith.
To the ranging eye, the fruits brought forth
by the religions of China appear to be number-
less temples, dingy and neglected; countless
dusty idols portraying hideous deities in violent
attitudes expressive of the worst passions; an
army of ignorant priests, as skeptical as Koman
augurs, engaged in divining, exorcising, and
furnishing funeral ceremonies for gain; and a
laity superstitious and irreverent, given to per-
functory kotowing and prayer prompted by the
most practical motives. The passing traveler
notes sacred trees with bits of red cloth flutter-
ing from the twigs; brick screens built just in-
side gateways and doorways to check the invisi-
ble, rushing demons of the air; wayside shrines
ever redolent with lighted joss-sticks left for
good luck by passing coolies; cliffs carved into
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 219
hundreds of niches, each sheltering the effigy of
some god or saint; idols with faces repulsive
from the sacrificial blood smeared on their
lips; jutting boulders and fantastic rocks black-
ened with incense smoke and stuck up with the
feathers of sacrificed fowls; and house-boats
protected at every point by a smoking joss-stick,
with the bow red with the blood of the cock killed
at the outset of the voyage.
In a temple in Soochow one sees in a corner
a great heap of broken idols, the massive frag-
ments showing the sticks, straw, and mud out of
which they were made. Thereby hangs a tale
that might have been brought to Rome from
Friesland in the eighth century. Not long ago
a reforming official, observing that idols had be-
come a ruinous infatuation among his people,
drew a great crowd by announcing a duel to the
death between himself and the idols. Putting
one end of a rope about his own neck and the
other about the neck of a big idol, he said, "If
the idol is stronger than I am, I shall be stran-
gled; but if I am the stronger, the idol will fall."
Trusting to his bull neck, the mandarin pulled,
the idols tumbled, and since then the spirit of St.
Thomas is abroad in Soochow.
At this moment the religious impact of the
West upon China is delivered by fourteen hun-
dred Roman Catholic missionaries and four thou-
sand Protestant missionaries, of whom, how-
ever, fully a thousand are wives, and therefore
not always free to do full work. The Roman
220 THE CHANGING CHINESE
Catholic work is three centuries old, and more
than a million baptized Chinese are in its fold.
The Protestant work is the growth of a century,
and about half a million are within its churches,
although its communicants do not exceed two
hundred thousand. Most of what follows re-
lates to Protestant missions, for the writer has
had little opportunity to come into touch with the
Eoman Catholic corps.
To the untutored Chinamen the presence of the
missionary is a puzzle. They simply cannot im-
agine human beings exiling themselves from their
native land for the love of men on the other
side of the globe. So they frame sundry theories
to explain the thing to themselves. One the-
ory is that the missionaries are secret political
agents bent on gaining an influence over the
Chinese, and then swaying them to the advan-
tage of their respective governments. Only of
late have the natives come to realize that the
strangers are not sent by their governments, but
by religious groups. According to another the-
ory, China is so excellent and renowned that
the red-haired barbarians come to live there for
the mere pleasure of it. As for their self-deny-
ing works of benevolence, these are supposed to
be prompted by the desire to acquire merit.
Unlike the Mohammedan end of Asia, the Far
East is not intense in its religious beliefs. The
Chinese are Gallios in such matters, and their
occasional mobbings of missionaries are not in
the least outbreaks of fanatical intolerance. They
tllf' IBS. *-!
u
High altar of a Buddhist temple of the
Kushan Monastery
Temple in a gorge, Kushan Monastery
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 223
are in part explosions of anti-foreign feeling
generated in this most patient of peoples by
opium wars, the enforced opium trade, the com-
pulsory opening of ports, extra-territoriality,
high-handed seizures of territory, and like buf-
fets to national pride inflicted by the mailed fist
of Western powers. The missionary has no
part in these, but when the black thunder-clouds
of hatred roll up, he, as the nearest foreigner,
receives the lightning stroke. Other violences
against him have been deliberately stirred up by
the slanders set afloat among the credulous
masses by the literary and official class, who fear
lest the missionary introduce ideas which will
make it harder to maintain the old system of
governing and exploiting the common people.
But for what is miscalled "forcing Christianity
on China," — by which is meant requiring the
intolerant Imperial Government to allow teach-
ers of religion to travel, live, and work un-
molested in all parts of the Empire, — the selfish
statecraft of the rulers would have deprived the
people for generations of what the missionaries
bring them.
As the Chinese come to know the strangers
better, and to perceive the pure motives behind
their gentle invasion, they discriminate more
sharply between them and those aggressive white
men who are in the Far East not to help China,
but to make something out of her. The last five
years have been marked by a rapidly growing
entente cordiale between the missionaries and the
224 THE CHANGING CHINESE
better elements in Chinese society. The assail-
ants of opium and foot-binding gratefully own
their debt to the strangers. One mandarin went
circuit-riding through his district with the local
missionary, both speaking for opium reform
from the same platform. The friends of the new
education realize how much China owes to the
mission schools, which have long been turning
out men fitted to communicate Western learning.
Lately one often hears of high officials honoring
the commencement exercises of such schools
with their presence and words. One provincial
assembly attended a church conference in a
body, and its vice-president and secretary spoke
fearlessly for their Christian faith. In the in-
terior, where there are no traders to inspire dis-
like for the white man, the missionary often finds
the mandarin not only appreciative, but even
sympathetic and friendly.
Very striking is the contrast between the Eng-
lish mission work and the American. The Eng-
lish missionaries center their efforts largely on
translating and evangelizing, while the Ameri-
cans have done much in the medical and educa-
tional fields as well. In the higher education
their lead is almost a monopoly. Of fourteen
Protestant mission "colleges" and "universi-
ties," only one is maintained by the British; the
rest are American or union. The English mis-
sionary at the head of Shansi University de-
clares: "British missionaries, with British con-
servatism, have held too much to the idea that
A wealthy Shansi family of foreig'iiizing tendencies
Monks of Kushan Monastery
CHEISTIANITY IN CHINA 227
their office is to evangelize and heal, not to en-
lighten the mind. But the American has also
applied himself directly to the root of China's
pressing temporal need, and spent a hundred
times as much money — nay, more — on education
as British Missions have done."
This difference betrays a profound contrast in
social creed. Most of the British missionary
societies, while solicitous for the eternal welfare
of the Chinese, have no thought whatever of rais-
ing him intellectually or socially. The Ameri-
can societies, with their democratic faith in men,
aspire to help the Chinese upward along all lines.
One reason, perhaps, for the apathy of the Brit-
ish, is the failure of university opportunities to
Christianize the Hindu students in India, and
the trouble that has been stirred up there by
educated Hindus. But one also sees that the
British simply do not believe in education as the
Americans do.
It is certain that the American missionaries,
by their literary and educational labors, are do-
ing far more to Christianize Chinese public opin-
ion, laws, and institutions, than their equally
learned and devoted English brethren. All
groups, however, recognize how hopeless it is to
convert the Chinese by missionary preaching.
The West cannot send out men enough to evan-
gelize a population so vast over a land so huge.
Thirty or forty thousand workers would be needed.
Then, too, the missionary rarely gains such mas-
tery of the language that all barriers between
228 THE CHANGING CHINESE
the Chinese mind and his vanish. On the other
hand, the capacity and character of the yellow
race is becoming apparent to all. So the mis-
sionaries realize that their part is to man the
needed colleges and theological schools and to
supervise the work in the field, while the actual
evangelization of China is to be carried on by the
trained native, costing a sixth as much to main-
tain as the foreign missionary.
It is fortunate that, as this directive function
comes to the fore, a type is coming into the field
quite unlike the early missionary. These young
men, most of them "student volunteers," have
squarer shoulders, a harder grip, a keener eye,
a terser speech, and a greater zest for outdoor
sports. They are more careful to conserve
health and " fitness." They pass fewer hours at
their devotions, and keep more in touch with
their time. They have broader intellectual in-
terests, and through their social and athletic
bent find points of sympathetic contact with the
treaty-port people. In faith, self-devotion, and
heroism there is nothing to choose between the
old missionary and the new. Perhaps the former
had a sublimer patience, a deeper humility. But
the latter is better fitted to meet the new mood
that is coming over the Chinese. He is not con-
tent with inspiring a saving faith; he aims at
an all-round transformation, — what he calls
"making the Kingdom of God come in China,"
— and he is quite as likely to succeed as if he
aimed at less.
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 229
What manly pith the work requires may he
gleaned from the varied activities of a young
missionary in Fokien whom I observed for three
or four days last year. A successful life-
insurance agent who gave up everything to obey
the "call," he is now in charge of three districts,
each with its presiding elder, a score of na-
tive pastors, and perhaps thirty congregations.
He preaches, holds conference, dedicates
churches, examines candidates for the ministry,
rebukes, encourages, and directs. He passes the
long hours in his sedan chair making observa-
tions on bird life which are gladly printed by the
Smithsonian Institution. When a man-eating
tiger terrifies the villagers, he takes a couple of
days off, slays the beast, and gives it, stuffed, to
the museum of his church college. Although
ignorant of architecture, he has to supervise the
construction of a big stone church to seat twenty-
five hundred, ordering the tearing out of badly
laid sections of wall and devising means of sup-
porting a roof of forty-five feet span. With the
money he secures from his friends he runs a
school with five teachers that supports one hun-
dred and fifty boys. The spacious compound,
with its thirty thousand dollars' worth of build-
ings and its nine-foot wall, is a bit of the twen-
tieth century projected into the thirteenth.
When a bullet is fired at midnight into a teach-
er's room, he has to confer with the anxious
mandarins and assure them that he will not com-
plain to his consul if they will see that the
230 THE CHANGING CHINESE
outrage is not repeated. Thus this cheery,
masterful American goes about, speaking the
dialect, judging, conferring, deciding, organizing,
a real field-marshal of militant Christianity.
The old taunt of "rice-Christian" still raises
doubts as to the quality of the mission harvest.
A Confucian gentleman will tell you that the
genuine convert is greatly improved in charac-
ter, but that most of the adherents are self-seek-
ers, who impose on the missionaries. The lay
critic points out that for his knowledge of the
character and standing of the applicant the mis-
sionary depends on his native evangelist, who
may have his own ax to grind. On the other
hand, it is a fact that the converts receive no
material aid, but are expected to contribute un-
til their church has become self-supporting. In
the distributing of famine relief no discrimi-
nation is made between believer and unbeliever.
Still, there are worldly motives for turning
Christian, and the seasoned missionaries make
the inquirer wait long before baptizing him.
They are all eager to see tokens of sincerity, and
one whose most respected members had just laid
bare their gross sins during a revival confessed
that a load had been lifted from his heart. Per-
haps the best proof that the missionaries are
not garnering hypocrites is the fact that ten thou-
sand Protestant and thirty thousand Eoman
Catholic converts perished in the Boxer upris-
ing. Many of these could have saved their lives
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CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 233
by trampling on a piece of paper bearing the
character for " Jesus."
It would be a gross error to assume that the
missionary is intent solely on imparting a saving
faith. With him doctrine figures by no means so
prominently as with us or as in the earlier mis-
sionary work. He aims to effect a profound and
far-reaching transformation in the life of the
convert. This implies a startling change in
fundamental values. Practical in his religion,
as in everything else, the ordinary Chinese re-
gards his "joss" as a source of worldly benefit.
From it he seeks restoration to health, good
crops, success in the literary examinations, pros-
perity in business, or official preferment. He
is amazed at the offer of a religion that will prom-
ise none of these things unless they are "best"
for him, that guarantees in answer to prayer
only spiritual blessings, such as patience, cour-
age, and victory over temptation. A mockery it
seems at first, and a paradox. But he notices
that the Christians are serene of brow, and their
meekness under persecution argues a hidden
source of strength ; and presently it occurs to him,
"What if this inner life should be, after all, the
main thing?"
With Christianity comes also a marked change
in ideals. Undeveloped though they are, the
Chinese, as a race, are not one whit behind us in
capacity for idealism. St. Augustine, no doubt,
found our heathen forefathers far less promis-
234 THE CHANGING CHINESE
ing material. They are moved by charity, pu-
rity, and forgiveness, just as we are. The read-
ing of the Gospels stirs in them the same secret
better self that it stirs in us. There are many
to whom the Christ ideal appeals as a new and
better life, and they embrace it for the sake of
inward peace rather than because of the super-
natural authority of Christianity.
One who really enters into the spirit of the New
Testament seems to experience a wonderful up-
lift and happiness. It delivers him in a great
degree from the fears that have haunted him —
the fear of misfortune, the fear of disease, and,
above all, the fear of death. Oriental life and
thought offer but a cheerless outlook to the
meditative soul, and to such a one the religion
from the West offers a true vita nuova. To
judge from the beatific expression on the faces
of certain superior converts I have met, the Gos-
pel means to them what the opening of the hatches
of a captured slave-ship meant to the wretches
pent up in its hold.
Besides, the missionaries open more windows
than one would think. The wards and sleeping
rooms of the Asile de la Sainte Enfance at Hong
Kong are kept wonderfully clean and neat. One
old native woman recently admitted and lying at
the point of death was being instructed by a
Chinese pastor in Christian doctrine and was
told of Heaven where everything is beautiful and
she would be happy. "Why," she remonstrated,
"should I want to go to Heaven? Can it be
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 235
finer than this? I am perfectly happy in this
beautiful place and don't want to die and dwell
in Heaven." Poor soul, after a lifetime of strug-
gle with dirt and confusion her martyrized wom-
an's instinct for order and cleanliness had at last
found satisfaction!
The break of the genuine convert with his past
is far more abrupt than anything with which we
are familiar. He turns his back on opium,
gambling, and unchastity, the besetting sins of
his fellows. He abandons cheating, lying, back-
biting, quarreling, and filthy language, which are
all too rife among the undisciplined common peo-
ple. He shuns litigation, often the ruin of the
villager. By withdrawing from the festivals in
the ancestral hall and from the rites at the
graves of his ancestors, he sunders himself from
his clan and incurs persecution. Thus the con-
verts become separatists, with the merits and
defects of separatists. Cut off from the world
and thrown on one another, they form a group
apart, a body of Puritans that will one day be
a precious nucleus of moral regeneration for
China.
The over-sanguine dream of a great ingather-
ing in case Christianity, from being merely
tolerated, should become one of the recognized
religions of the empire, or even the official re-
ligion. No doubt recognition would encourage
many a promising youth to declare himself, who
even now believes, but dreads handicap in his
official career. The wiser missionaries, how-
236 THE CHANGING CHINESE
ever, realize that adversity and persecution
are a bracing atmosphere for the infant church,
and spare it an influx of the worldly-minded, with
whose Oriental wiliness and subtlety the mission-
aries are not fitted to cope.
This feeling is deepened by the fact that every
strong popular drift toward Christianity that has
set in in this or that district or province has been
prompted by worldly motives. Again and again
tidings have come of wonderful "mass move-
ments" toward the church, which have raised
high~ hopes of a sudden and wholesale conversion
of the Chinese. But always it came out at last
that the movement had been inspired by the hope
of gaining missionary support in lawsuits or
winning the approval of the mandarins or en-
joying consular protection in times of trouble.
In one district of Kiang-si, in 1901-02, a single
enthusiastic missionary gathered in twenty thou-
sand souls, and numerous self-supporting con-
gregations arose. But presently the proselytes
went to settling old scores with their Eoman
Catholic enemies, and the new missionary sent
out to sift the wheat from the chaff found him-
self, after a year of church discipline, with only
a hundred faithful. For a generation it will be
impossible to make headway in the district where
this bubble burst. Such cases make the experi-
enced very apathetic toward mass movements
and mushroom growths, and there is a deepen-
ing conviction that spiritual Christianity ad-
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 239
vances only by winning individuals, never by at-
tracting masses.
The gentry and literati have been wont to de-
spise the new religion from the "West. Looking
upon us as cunning and formidable barbarians,
they have heeded our missionaries about as much
as the circle of Maecenas would have heeded
Gaulish apostles of Druidism. Of late, however,
their self-complacency has been dealt some stag-
gering blows, and they are more willing to hear
what the foreigner has to say. Certain mission-
aries report that their listeners are from a more
intelligent class and that the questions with which
the preacher is plied at the close show marked
intellectual acumen.
Although the missionaries have gained few con-
verts from the superior social classes, they have
attracted a superior element from the middle and
lower classes. The majority of a native Christian
congregation resemble the general population, but
a study of their physiognomy shows a greater
frequency of noble or intellectual faces. Among
a score of farmers in a little congregation gath-
ered to dedicate a country chapel in Fokien, I
noticed four fine faces and one peasant who might
have sat to Leonardo da Vinci for his St. John.
In view of the human quality of these Christians,
I did not marvel on learning that the chapel, cost-
ing two hundred and fifty dollars, had been built
by twelve families out of their own resources,
and that every stick of timber in it had been car-
240 THE CHANGING CHINESE
ried on their shoulders from the sea-coast, a
league away.
Kino wing how little the modern woman's move-
ment in the West owes to churchmen, one is sur-
prised to see how potent is Christianity for the
uplift of the women of the Far East. But in
China the present need of woman is not industrial
and social opportunity so much as improve-
ment in her lot as daughter and wife. Thanks
to the exalted place of the parent, the position
of the mother, with reference to her children or
her daughters-in-law, leaves little to be desired.
The missionaries have not proclaimed the
"rights of women" nor insisted upon the full
equality of the sexes. But the women converts
gain from the reading of the New Testament
ideas of their dignity, and come to feel that they
have rights which ought to be respected. It
gives them courage to become Bible women,
teachers, and physicians. From the same source
the man learns to look upon his wife in a new
light and to feel that he owes her love and re-
spect. He substitutes persuasion for coercion,
and concedes her full authority in certain mat-
ters, such as the management of the household
or the direction of the servants. One man told
how formerly he had looked upon his wife as a
mere toy, but since conversion he had come to
love her and consult her, and, to his surprise, he
had found that often her judgment was sounder
than his. He blushed as he confessed that he
"loved" his wife, for the Chinese never talk
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 241
about such feelings. It is a fact that Christians
have the name of making good husbands, and are
preferred as sons-in-law even by unbelieving
parents.
Because she marries young and can do little
for her parents in their old age, the daughter is
of slight account among the common people.
Chinese gentlemen have told me that perhaps a
tenth of the female infants are made away with.
One woman I heard of had drowned eight. An-
other went raving mad every time she saw her
husband, who had taken from her her three baby
daughters and sold them. Now, into this situa-
tion Christianity projects certain new and very
emphatic teachings. The convert is urged to
cherish and educate his daughter instead of treat-
ing her as a burden. He is to give her at least a
primary education, so that she may be able to read
her Bible. "When she comes of marriageable age,
she finds herself far better off than other girls.
To be sure, she is not courted after the manner of
the West ; but she may be permitted to look upon
her suitor, and, in any case, she is fully informed
as to his disposition and attainments. She may
even refuse to marry the chosen suitor without in-
curring the crushing reproach of being "unfilial."
Among the common Chinese, marriage negotia-
tions are conducted in a very practical spirit,
money being the chief consideration; but the
Christian parents feel it their duty to consider
first the happiness of their daughter.
The male converts cling to the husband's head-
242 THE CHANGING CHINESE
ship, buttressing their position with Pauline
texts, and are reluctant to admit that deaconesses
can be the full equals of deacons; but more and
more the woman's position in the church reflects
contemporary opinion in England and America
rather than the dicta of St. Paul.
In the older church buildings of South China,
in deference to Chinese notions of propriety,
a five-foot screen was set up, hiding the women's
side from the men's side, but these screens
are coming down. Formerly there was much
objection in the better families to the attend-
ance of unmarried girls at church, but now you
see the maidens sitting in mother's pew with
their eyes modestly lowered, and looking very
sweet with their glossy brown hair falling in a
snood down the back. Ten years ago women
never testified in religious meetings; but now
they speak and pray freely, and the most winning
revivalist in China to-day is a young Chinese
woman.
Some scoffers insist that missions exist to turn
out converts, just as a factory exists to turn out
shoes. Divide your annual outlay by the number
of new communicants, and you arrive at the av-
erage cost of converting a Chinaman. Now, let
conversion be conceived as a mere reminting
which changes, indeed, the image and super-
scription of the coin, but not its metal, and there
is a sting in the gibe, "Is it worth while to con-
vert Buddhists into Baptists at so many dollars
the head?"
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 245
Now, tlie truth is, that, in the very nature of
the case, by far the larger part of their ac-
complishment can never be claimed by the mis-
sionaries as their own. They dig the well and
toil at the windlass, but the waters they raise do
not flow in an open conduit to the fields they
quicken. Most of them disappear in the ground,
and when they reappear to make distant wastes
bloom, they cannot be identified. "What of the
young men leaving the mission colleges uncon-
verted, yet imbued with Christian ideals? "What
of the bracing effect on the government schools
of competition with the well-managed and effi-
cient mission schools? "What of the government
schools for girls, which would never have been
provided if the missionaries had not created a
demand for female education and shown how to
teach girls? WTiat of the native philanthropies
which have sprung up in emulation of the mis-
sion care for the blind, the insane, and the leper?
What of the untraceable influence of the West-
ern books of inspiration and learning which, but
for the missionary translators, would not yet be
accessible to the Chinese mind? Among Chi-
nese who neither know nor care for the " Jesus
religion," the changes of attitude toward opium-
smoking, foot-binding, concubinage, slavery,
"squeeze," torture, and the subjection of women,
betray currents of opinion set in motion largely
by the labors of missionaries.
In other words, the running of so many heathen
into our religious molds is not the chief accom-
246 THE CHANGING CHINESE
plislnnent. Over and above the proselytes won
are the beneficent transformations, intellectual
and moral, wrought in great numbers of people
who do not affiliate with the church. Then, over
and above such transformations of individuals
are the transformations wrought in the society
and government of the Middle Kingdom — better
treatment of slaves, of prisoners, of orphans, of
wives, of commoners. In this the missionaries
have a great part, though no man can say how
much. Finally, over and above the transforma-
tions of society are the transformations wrought
in the Chinese civilization. Here again the mis-
sionary has planted and watered, but may not
gather the fruits into his bin.
The missionary thinks of himself as a bearer
of the Gospel, not as an apostle of Western moral
civilization at its present stage. He does not
perceive on his nose the twentieth-century spec-
tacles through which he reads the Gospel, and
so determines what is " scriptural. " "On what
ground," I asked a woman evangelist, "do you
forbid foot-binding as 'unchristian'?" "On the
ground that it does violence to the body God
gave us." I thought of the choir invisible of
fasters, flagellants, and self-mutilators acting in
supposed obedience to the command, "If thy
hand offend thee, cut it off," and wondered what
they would say to such a reason.
The missionary is the introducer of current
Western standards. He instructs his schoolboys
respecting bathing, spitting, the use of the hand-
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 249
kerchief, neatness of garb, the care of one's
room, modesty in personal habits. He teaches
the people to clean house and yard, to whitewash
the walls of the home, to scour the floors of the
school-room or church. He enforces the duty of
being humane to dumb animals, of rearing de-
fective children, of educating daughters, and con-
sulting the wife.
Unwittingly he reads into the Scriptures every-
thing that has commended itself to the conscience
of Christendom, and becomes, in spite of him-
self, the voice of his country and his time. The
girls' schools in the American missions reflect
American ideas as to woman's proper place.
The industrial schools inoculate with American be-
lief in the dignity of manual labor a people so dis-
dainful of toil that everyone exempt from it ad-
vertises the fact by wearing his finger-nails long.
The notions of government taught in the mis-
sion colleges would have horrified those who
Christianized the Irish and the Saxons. The
place these same colleges give to natural science
and scientific methods betrays the modern spirit,
and would have scandalized St. Boniface or St.
Francis Xavier.
The stubborn animosity of the average treaty-
port foreigner toward the missionaries is at first
unaccountable. How can intelligent men consent
to circulate such brutal falsehoods, such patent
calumnies? For you will be told that the mis-
sionaries speculate in land, that they trade "on
the side," that they take it easy and live better
250 THE CHANGING CHINESE
than they did at home. As for their work, you
learn that it is a failure, that the converts are
frauds, and that the Christian Chinese is less
honest and reliable than the heathen. Indeed, a
local trader without twenty words of the lan-
guage, dependent on his ''pidgin" English and
his comprador, whose contact with the natives
is limited to his servants and a few native mer-
chants, will aver that the missionary, who ad-
dresses the natives freely in their own tongue,
comes and goes in their families, sees them off
their guard, and counsels them in their intimate
personal problems, "doesn't know the Chinese!"
The British resent the outspoken hostility of
all missionaries to the Indian opium trade. Then
there is a belief in commercial circles that the
opportunities and stimulus they supply cannot
but strengthen the Chinese as competitors and
embarrass the white man in his money-making.
The rancor of the critics springs, however, from
the deathless feud between the worldling and the
idealist. Free from home restraints, many a
merchant, shipmaster, or customs officer on the
China coast lets himself go, and sinks into a life
which obliges the missionaries to shun and dis-
avow him. The sensualist, whose ruling pas-
sions are high living, drinking, gaming, and de-
bauchery, resents the silent reproach in the pure
and domestic life of the missionaries, and strikes
at them with incredible venom. I have heard
a libertine, whose ideal vacation is an orgy in
the yoshiwaras of Japan, rail at the missionaries
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 251
of the Lower Yangtse for gathering with their
families during the heated term at a mountain
resort like Kuling or Mokanshan; and this, al-
though breakdown from overwork is far more
frequent among them than among any other
white men in China.
An anti-missionary British consul in Western
China was speaking to me of the trying climate
of Szechuan. "It 's a shame," he said, "for a
government or a firm to keep a white man here
for more than three years."
"But how about the missionaries?" I asked.
"I understand they pass their lives here, retir-
ing in summer no farther than the hills five miles
away. ' '
"Well," he replied meditatively, "the climate
does n't seem to hurt them. You see, they 're so
interested in their work."
But there are fair criticisms to be made. A
Chinese Christian, educated in America and hold-
ing a responsible post, told me that during the
occupation of Peking by the Allies, when the
local Chinese were under a reign of terror, cer-
tain thrifty missionaries acquired large amounts
of real estate for their missions by forcing sales.
They would go to a householder and say, "We
find your property is suitable for our purposes.
Will you give us the title deed for fifty dollars ? ' '
The intimidated owner did not dare to refuse.
The money was counted out to him, and he was
notified to yield up possession in five days. Thus
was acquired for a ridiculously low price much
252 THE CHANGING CHINESE
of the real estate in a certain spacious compound.
At one time the missionaries interfered too
freely in lawsuits between a Christian and a non-
Christian. The convert expected aid in such
cases, for he is apt to conceive the church as akin
to one of his mutual-benefit associations, in which
all stand by one another in all circumstances.
The Roman Catholics have always been strong
in protecting their members, and by competition
the Protestants were drawn into a like policy.
Of course in each case the missionary supposed
that he was on the side of right, but often he was
misled by ex-parte stories. As there are treaties
guaranteeing Chinese converts against persecu-
tion, the intervention of the missionary, with
consuls and gunboats looming dimly behind him,
sometimes frightened the mandarin into an un-
fair decision. Such errors not only hurt Chris-
tianity by outraging the popular sense of justice,
but they attracted self-seekers into the church.
When, after the Boxer year, the policy was
generally abandoned by the Protestants, there
was in some quarters a falling away.
The question of indemnity for mission property
destroyed by rioters is one to perplex a convoca-
tion of saints. On the one hand, it would seem
that, but for the dread of having to pay indem-
nity, the ill-disposed official might withhold all
protection and let the mob work its destructive
will. On the other hand, in the Changsha riots
last year, the mission property was attacked
GO
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■43
=1
«4
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 255
just in order to pile up indemnities for a hated
government to pay. The China Inland Mission,
with its thousand missionaries, steadily refuses
to claim indemnity, on the ground that the money
is extracted not from guilty rioters, but from the
innocent. Such an example of Christian for-
bearance makes a deep impression on the Chi-
nese and mightily advances the work of the mis-
sion. • The results justify the policy, and no
doubt the other missions, in order to escape in-
vidious comparisons, will have to adopt it.
Few of those in the field look for an early con-
version of the Chinese. Those who have learned
how tough and massive is the race mind expect
that centuries will elapse before the yellow race
will be as permeated by Christianity as the white
race already is. They remember that "it took
Buddhism three hundred years before it obtained
official recognition and many centuries more be-
fore the mass of the people were influenced by
it."
Nevertheless, none despond at the outlook, for
they perceive that the aggressive rivalry of Chris-
tianity, coupled with the coming diffusion of ed-
ucation among the masses, is bound to raise con-
tinually the religious plane of the Chinese oy
forcing the native faiths to assume higher and
higher forms in order to survive. A silent, secret
permeation of the religions of the Far East
by the ideals and standards of Christianity is
inevitable; and if eventually they prove capable
256 THE CHANGING CHINESE
of making a stand against the invader, it will be
owing to their heavy borrowings from it.
Chinese Buddhism appears to be too far gone
to be resuscitated. Debased with popular super-
stitions and loaded down with idol-worship, even
the missionaries sent to China by the Japanese
Buddhists will fail to breathe into it the breath
of life. Quite otherwise is it with Confucianism.
It is a natural rallying-point for the patriots and
conservatives too proud to accept a foreign re-
ligion, and there is every prospect that for genera-
tions it will be a center of resistance. Already
the scholars are reading into the classics ele-
vated moral ideas they have unconsciously im-
bibed from Christian literature. Already there
is a movement that calls itself "Confucio-Chris-
tianity"!
The doubtful attitude of the early mission-
aries toward Confucius has given way to a cordial
appreciation of his ideals. Confucius offers a
faultless example of a life dominated by prin-
ciple; Jesus offers a faultless example of a life
dominated by love. For the people at large the
Gospels contain far more ethical inspiration than
the Analects; but for magistrates, judges, and
public men, who serve their fellows by conform-
ing to principle, the Confucian literature is full
of uplift.
The handicap of Confucianism, in vying with
Christianity as a moral force, is its lack of sanc-
tion. It presents high ideals, but there is noth-
ing to be dreaded by one who fails to live up to
CHEISTIANITY IN CHINA 257
them. Hardly can it block natural inclinations
and wrest lives from the grasp of appetite or pas-
sion unless it develops the doctrine of responsi-
bility to God. Such a development would hardly
be difficult, for Confucius frequently speaks of
"Heaven" as on the side of righteousness.
Again, Confucianism, in competing with a re-
ligion holding out the assurance of immortality,
suffers from its silence as to the beyond. When
the master was questioned on this, he replied
evasively, "If you do not understand life, how
can you understand death?" Very likely the
doctrine of an after life will somehow be inter-
preted into the classics. A Neo-Confucianism
may thus be able to vie with Christianity for a
long time; for, as a home-grown product, it will
appeal strongly to the conservative instincts,
mortified by the wholesale borrowings from West-
ern culture that must presently be made.
China's remoteness from our own historical
epoch gives wings to the imagination, and the
traveler realizes that very likely the mission-
aries there face much the same situation that
confronted the infant Church in the Eoman
Empire — in both cases, temples, gods, images,
altars, priests, sacrifices, superstition, an out-
worn mythology, ancestor-worship, and moral
ideals attracting only the elite. The Eoman
Empire was superior to China in civic virtue,
but China is superior in domestic virtue. The
plane of culture does not appear to be very dif-
258 THE CHANGING CHINESE
ferent. The subjects of Shien Tung are hardly-
more enlightened than were those of Hadrian.
Since Christianity made its way through the Ro-
man Empire in spite of its being spread at first
chiefly by small tradesmen, artisans, and freed-
men, why should it not make its way through the
Chinese Empire!
For when the Chinese become sensible of the
inferiority of their own culture, Christianity
presents itself to them clothed with prestige. It
is communicated by picked, trained men, equal
in character and learning to any body of apostles
that ever carried a faith to an alien people. It
has the prestige of impressive antiquity and of an
immense following. Moreover, it is in close as-
sociation with a material civilization so suc-
cessful that China will be obliged to adopt it in
its entirety in order to survive.
There is no reason to believe that there is any-
thing in the psychology or history or circum-
stances of the Chinese to cut them off from the
general movement of world thought. Their des-
tiny is that of the white race; that is, to share
in and contribute to the progress of a planetary
culture. It therefore seems safe to predict that,
in the end, whatever happens to Christianity in
the West will happen to it in China. If, owing to
the discoveries of natural science or the results
of the higher criticism of the Scriptures, the phil-
osophical or historical basis of Christianity is
shattered and it loses ground in the West,
it will not move forward in China. The in-
CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 259
fluential and enlightened classes in China are
quite too proud to allow their people to adopt
anything cast off by the West. If, on the other
hand, Christianity keeps its grip on the West, it
is certain to move forward to ultimate triumph
in China; for it is quite as congenial to the Chi-
nese as it was to the people of the Eoman Em-
pire in the third century.
CHAPTER X
THE EAR WEST OE THE FAR EAST
A JOURNEY with Mr. Arnold, American Con-
sul at Amoy, from Taiyuanfu, the capital of
Shansi, southwest twelve hundred miles to Cheng-
tu, the capital of Szechuan, in the early summer
of 1910 enabled the writer to view a section of
China that has been very rarely traversed and
described by white men. The voyage down the
Min and the Yangtse from Chengtu to Chung-
king and thence to Ichang, the head of steam navi-
gation, takes one through the famous gorges and
rapids of the Yangtse, but the route has been so
often and so well described that I will ignore that
portion of my journey.
For nearly three centuries the Tartar con-
querors of China have let the splendid roads
and canals inherited from the Ming dynasty go
to pieces. Hence the arterial highway that binds
Peking to the remote interior provinces is,
through Shansi, mostly a low way. You are
startled by seeing a man's head and shoulders
gliding mysteriously through the wheat; draw
nigh, and lo, a peasant riding on a cart in a
sunken road! Often you find yourself traveling
some yards below the level of the fields so that
you see nothing of the country. After rains such
260
THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 261
a road becomes a canal, sometimes a torrent.
Of labor spent npon it there is no sign. When
the Empress Dowager fled this way in 1900,
stretches were repaired for Her Majesty which
had not been touched since 1780! The ruts are
never filled, save by nature. The road wanders
whither it will and when one track becomes im-
passable another is found. As the loess is ground
into dust under hoof and wheel and blows away,
the road sinks deeper and deeper until you pass
under old gate-towers whose foundations begin
seven feet above your head.
For three weeks we were passing square, flat-
top towers three miles apart along which by
means of signal fires news of distant invasion or
rebellion used to be flashed to the Son of Heaven.
Now the telegraph line marches over the hills,
and lusty saplings are rending the masonry of
the abandoned towers. The highway is, also, an
open air "hall of fame," being lined with monu-
ments erected to bygone worthies by a grateful
community. Every mile of his journey the way-
farer who can read is reminded of the virtues
his countrymen honor. No people has relied so
little on police and soldiers to keep the peace as
the Chinese and these inscriptions show how they
have schooled themselves in morality.
From the Peking-Hankow line a French rail-
road climbs west half a day to Taiyuanfu.
Thence south for two hundred miles one meets
the produce of the country seeking this rail
outlet to Peking and Tientsin — innumerable
262 THE CHANGING CHINESE
mule carts laden with flour, salt, tobacco, bean
oil, hempen rope, paper, locust wood, licorice
root, goat's hair, hides, and bales of cotton
and wool. Moreover, Shansi is fat with min-
erals which may make it a center of indus-
trial energy after glowing Westphalia and Bel-
gium and Pennsylvania have become a cinder.
Once, looking down five hundred feet from the
road, I counted in the side of a ravine seven
veins of clear coal separated by limestone strata.
Here and there one comes on workings where the
natives burrow timidly into hillsides and bring
out the coal on all fours. Near the pit good
lump coal sells for seventy-five cents a ton,
whereas a hundred miles away the same coal
sells for seven times as much, showing a trans-
port cost of four-and-a-half cents a ton-mile. A
railroad down the valley of the Fen would cut this
to one-tenth and put an end to twenty-five cent
wheat and flour half a cent a pound.
Throbbing with new life, Taiyuanfu boasts
electricity, macadam, a uniformed street-clean-
ing brigade, a public park with lagoon, bandstand
and museum, a nursery growing trees for streets
and open spaces, a match factory, a military
school, a police force, a reformatory and a semi-
weekly newspaper. But a couple of days south
all traces of foreign influence vanish. Aside
from the huge cigarette posters plastered clear
through the province by some advertising van-
dal, you are in the pure Middle Ages. The only
illuminant is a twist of cotton burning in an iron
Looking south from the Bell Tower. Sianfu
The east gate of Taiyuaiifu, showing macadamized street
THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 265
cup of rape-seed oil. The windows are of thin
paper pasted on lattice. Coined silver does not
circulate but one carries rough lumps which the
dealer accepts according to the verdict of his
own scales. On converting them into coin you
visit all the money-changers and deal with the one
with the most liberal scales. The money of the
country is perforated brass cash on strings, two
hundred to the string. Ten strings are worth a
dollar, and weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds.
Once when, according to our contract, we paid
each of our coolies the equivalent of forty-three
cents, they were so loaded with what is beyond
all question "filthy lucre" that next day they
could hardly carry us.
In cities like Taiku and Pingyao, as well as in
the capital, one sees signs of the profits reaped by
the Shansi bankers who do the principal part of
the banking of the Empire. Fine residences with
numerous courts, elaborate gateways, parks, lily
ponds, stone bridges, summer houses and an-
cestral halls, which together with stables, garden
and orchard occupy twenty or thirty acres and are
enclosed by high walls crowned by an ornamental
cornice, battlements and turrets, testify to former
prosperity. Until recently poverty was increas-
ing owing to opium-smoking and laziness, and, in
towns once rich, good houses were being torn down
for the sake of the bricks. But smoking is going
out, and the tide is turning. Gambling, however,
is said to be extending to the business class, and
the sons of successful Shansi bankers, giving
266 t THE CHANGING CHINESE
themselves up to self-indulgence, theatricals and
poetry, let slip from them the businesses their
fathers built up throughout the Empire. Some
of these rich young men struck me as fat, soft
and sensual. There is little to stimulate their
ambition, and they see no reason why they should
not give themselves up to the nearest pleasures.
Zest for sports, or the ideal of bodily "fitness,"
has not yet taken hold of them.
From the countryside at home this Shansi land-
scape seems almost as remote as a Bedouin en-
campment. There is never a pasture, meadow,
hay-stack, barn or wind-mill. There are no
painted houses, door-yards, barn-yards or grazing
cattle. Instead of hedges or fences, open fields
with here and there a square village girt with mud
walls. Instead of cemeteries, clusters of graves,
stone slabs, and brick monuments in the ancestral
fields. For shingled frame houses, dwellings of
sun-dried brick under tile or thatch, the larger
enclosing a courtyard. For white church and red
schoolhouse, temple, pagoda, and pailow. For
finger-post, crumbling signal-towers and arched
gateways.
Of things outlandish and interesting there is no
end. This is a camel country, but, as mules can-
not abide a camel, the caravans lie up at camel
inns through the day and travel only at night.
We meet shaven, red-robed Buddhist monks on
pilgrimage to the sacred mount of Wutaishan.
They are from Szechuan, and have been two
months on their way. All about Wensi looms are
THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 267
clacking in the cottages, and the town is gay with
long strips of coarse cotton cloth, dyed the char-
acteristic blue of work-a-day China, drying from
ropes stretched across the street. At Paisiang a
sudden beauty blooms in the people and for four
days we are frequently charmed with faces of a
Greek refinement. At Hwachow in Shensi it ab-
ruptly comes to an end and there is nothing but
unmitigated Mongol till we enter the streets of
Sianfu.
Rural police there is none, and so in the even-
ing the irrigator carries home with him rope,
bucket and windlass. For the same reason the
tiny shelters of the crop watchers dot the land.
Rows of stalks of kaoliang or corn are leaned to-
gether and daubed with mud. This makes a
shelter like an A tent in which at night the crop
guard squats and from which he watches his patch
as harvest nears. All this is a heavy tax on the
time and sleep of the peasants.
The valley of the lower Fen is one vast expanse
of yellowing wheat and harvest is beginning. The
gardens have been given their final drink, the
threshing floors smoothed and beaten, the sickles
ground, and the schools closed. At break of day
the family sets forth from the village, the babies
piled on the wheelbarrow or cart along with ket-
tles and pots, the women riding to spare their
squeezed feet, the boys striding alongside per-
fectly naked and the father guiding with his whip
the dun bullock or gray donkey that draws the
outfit. You see them at work under their flap-
268 .THE CHANGING CHINESE
ping straw hats, reaping with sickle or cradle,
and taking as long to bind one sheaf as I need to
bind five. They indulge in a long siesta through
the midday heat and in the cool of the evening
ride home on sheaves piled onto the cart with
forks from locust branches that have been trained
to grow three tines from one point. Poor
widows and naked orphans glean about in the
stubble and follow the homing cart to gather the
heads of wheat shaken from the load.
It is harvesting as simple and idyllic as that
of classical antiquity, and would have the charm
of the old Greek life if only the maidens were as
free as those of Homer's time. But by "pro-
priety" the marriageable girls are excluded from
this cheerful harvest-home and must stifle in the
tiny close chambers of their low houses while the
youths sing amid the sheaves.
The wheat is strewed about the threshing floor
and near midday when it has grown brittle in the
sunshine they beat it with flails or make a donkey
draw a stone roller round and round over it.
Then the straw is lifted aside, the mingled grain
and chaff swept into a heap and the picturesque
winnowing begins. Always the wheat has the
right of way. People flail out their sheaves on
the road because it saves making a threshing floor
and I have seen half the width of a sixteen-foot
main street in a great city occupied by some-
body's drying wheat. The traffic squeezed by
and nobody protested against the encroachment.
Nowhere is the havoc wrought by deforesta-
CO g
THE FAE WEST OF THE FAE EAST 271
tion more evident than in Northwest China.
Around Taiyuanfu all the once-wooded moun-
tains are bare and bone dry. Down through the
province one sees no trees on mountain or foot-
hill save those about temples. The original hard
woods are all gone, so in the valley one grows
cheap soft woods, — poplar, cottonwood, basswood,
box-elder and willow.
Once the tree cover is removed, the rains wash
the soil from the hillsides and with it fill the water-
courses and choke the valleys. Wherever a
brook or a creek debouches into the valley of the
Fen it has built with this wash a great alluvial
cone, curving down-river, and along the crest of
this cone runs the shallow gravelly bed of the
stream that once loitered under high banks three
or four fathoms beneath its present level. This
cone has covered under silt and sand and gravel
from a few score acres to several square miles of
the former rich bottom lands and they can never
be recovered.
Buildings are imbedded to the waist in the
debris. Gateways that once one could ride a
camel through one can now only creep through
on hands and knees. Twice we came upon ma-
jestic stone bridges which once spanned broad
affluents of the Fen, but which now, their noble
arches half silted up, stand unused amid fields
of beans and rape, sad monuments of a bygone
prosperity. Since the bridge was built twenty feet
of wash from deforested hills has been dropped
in that watercourse and the stream no longer
272 THE CHANGING CHINESE
fed from spongy wooded slopes is a trickle or an
underground moisture in summer and a raging
flood in the rainy season.
With the woods vanishes much that makes life
worth living. The brooks no longer run clear
water filtered through moss and humus but are
turbid with the soil of the bared slopes. Fish
will not live in them, and bathing ceases to be a
joy. In twelve days of Shansi travel I never saw
a boy disporting himself in water. The springs
dry up and no late-summer pastures are fresh-
ened by the seepage from wooded hillsides. Dis-
mally the muddy streams wander in the sun over
wide shallows instead of lurking as of yore in
deep channels under shading banks. No fallen
tree or log jam checks the creek and offers an Au-
gust lurking pool for the trout. No leafy path or
mossy log invites lovers, though, to be sure,
China does not believe in lovers. Millions live
life through without knowing sylvan glades,
"green-robed senators of the mighty woods,"
the glories of October leaves or the boyhood
pleasures of nutting, bird-nesting, and squirrel-
hunting.
Roots, twigs, grass, straw and dung replace fire-
wood. Brick or mud is the sole building material.
Brick benches and tables replace wooden furni-
ture ; brick stoops, wooden porches ; and the high-
way stretches glaring hot and dusty to where the
lone locust by the tea house offers a patch of
shade. Thus, with the woods vanish most of the
sources of beauty, the founts of poetry and in-
THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 273
spiration dry up, and life sinks to a dull sordid
round of food-getting and begetting.
The most penetrative Western things in China
are the Gospel, kerosene, and cigarettes, and I
am glad that as between light, heat and smoke,
the prophets of light get into the country first.
These interior folk gather their first impres-
sions of our race from those who want to make
converts rather than those who want to make
money. They take all foreigners for mission-
aries and often were we greeted with "Ping an,"
"Ping an" (Peace be unto you), the salutation
with which they are in the habit of greeting mem-
bers of the mission. The inland missionaries
freqently garb themselves a la Chinoise in order
to get closer to the people. They do not feel it
to be a hardship, however, for, in comparison
with the practical Chinese costume, the cut of
Western dress is about as foolish as anything
you find in China. Some go so far as to grow
a queue, and when you meet a Scotchman with a
bright auburn pig-tail down his back you have
seen something memorable.
Missionary life here is no junket. I met one
young man of noble face whose sweetheart had
died of typhus a month before on the very day
set for their wedding. Neither this shock nor a
year's suffering from sprue, which one gets by
"living Chinese" and sitting at the table of one's
humble converts, had taken from his countenance
its serene, uplifted look.
Cut off from kindred, society, music, art,
13
274 THE CHANGING CHINESE
amusement and intellectual companionship, the
missionary makes of Eis house a little reteat full
of reminders and suggestions of the motherland.
The missionary home is a green oasis in a Sahara
of dirt and ugliness. Surrounded by so much that
is distressing these exiles have to live much in the
spirit. If they devour endless devotional litera-
ture and sing many hymns and hang fortifying
texts on their walls, it is not at all from unwhole-
some excess of piety but to find solace from the
depressing spectacle of a fine people doomed to
a dreary existence which cannot be much relieved
in our time.
Once we met a wayfarer with a singularly noble
countenance, who put his bundle down and made
us a profound salutation. The Consul conversed
with him and after he had passed I asked, "Who
is that man? He is one of the finest-looking
Chinese I have ever seen." It came out that he
was the pastor of a native church. I have not
the language to describe what happiness and en-
couragement these souls of higher aspiration
among the Chinese gain from their fellowship
with the kindred spirits from the West.
While some complain that the missionaries live
too well, I have heard the China-Inland mission-
aries blamed for undertaking to live on too lit-
tle — in some cases not more than a hundred dol-
lars a year. In the field, however, you realize
that the mission well knows what it is doing. In
Hwachow, Shansi, you can get nine eggs for a cent,
a pigeon for a cent, a fowl for five cents, a brace
THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 275
of pheasants for three cents, mutton without
bone for three or four cents a pound. For a cost
of sixty cents a week apiece, the ladies of the
mission can set their table with the best the
market affords.
These ladies, by the way, are English and kins-
women of a gallant British general. They con-
duct a self-supporting school with more than a
hundred girls and live by themselves with not a
white man within a day's journey. One of these
sisters is a survivor of the Boxer year. Then
she saw her pupils ravished and murdered and
her school given to the flames. For weeks she
was taken about in chains, lodged in the vilest
dungeons and, time and again, the knife of a
Boxer was at her throat. Yet she is back in her
work at the old station, quite unconscious of her
heroism.
After a fortnight of mule litter we sight an-
cient yellow Sianfu, "the Western capital," with
its third of a million souls. Within the fortified
triple gate the facial mold abruptly changes and
the refined intellectual type appears. Here and
there faces of a Hellenic purity of feature are
seen and beautiful children are not uncommon.
These Chinese cities make one realize how the
cream of the population gathers in the urban
centers. Everywhere town opportunities have
been a magnet for the elite of the open country.
Cinctured with twelve miles of lofty wall dating
from the fourteenth century and in perfect re-
pair, Sianfu, more than any other city, recalls
276 THE CHANGING CHINESE
the early history of the "black-haired people"
from the "West who from this "Wei valley carried
their torch of civilization to the rude peoples of
what is now China. Here indeed is the cradle
of the Empire. Ages before Peking was or
Canton, Sianfu was the central hearth of Chi-
nese culture. No other city has been the capital
for so long. Off and on it held the scepter for
twenty-three centuries. From the battlements
you see out across the plain huge tumuli shelter-
ing the dust of monarchs who reigned before King
Solomon. One commemorates the father of the
execrated emperor who, not long after Alexander
the Great, sought to break the sway of the past
by burning the ancient books and slaying the
literati.
There is in China no museum of antiquities to
match the Pei-lin or Forest of Tablets, a collec-
tion of more than fourteen hundred historical
records in stone running back twelve centuries.
The pride of the collection is the famous Nes-
torian Stone inscribed in 781, which gives a long
account of the Nestorian Christianity which, after
nourishing for two centuries, was stamped out
by persecution a thousand years ago. How
odd that the Cross was carried to China before
it reached the Great Britain whose sons are now
carrying it to the Chinese again !
The Mohammedans have many mosques here
and from time to time of late the new self-con-
scious aggressive Islam sends out some zealot
from Constantinople to warm them in the faith.
The type of public monument
universal in Shansi
•
1
Wm&& ^ *j
■
- ...
Grave-stones, Chihli
THE FAE WEST OF THE FAR EAST 279
Local Buddhism just now is under a cloud owing
to a story that has the tang of the European
Dark Ages. Not long ago a wicked monk in a
Buddhist monastery here became obnoxious to
his fellows and in solemn conclave, the abbot ap-
proving, they decided he was not fit to live. So
they stuffed him alive into their furnace. The
missionaries report that many from the intel-
lectual class now listen to the preaching in the
central hall and after his sermon the preacher
is well heckled with shrewd questions. "Do send
out strong men!" was the parting word of a
leading missionry; "We need all the equipment
we can get to answer the questions the thinking
men of China are asking." Naturally the spur
of competition is putting new zeal into the friends
of the old faith. The Confucians have banded
together and are sending out wandering gospel-
lers of their own to preach the doctrines of the
Sage at fairs and other popular gatherings.
And that is something worth while. Whatever
their proselyting success the missionaries do suc-
ceed in turning men's thoughts to the things of
the spirit.
Sianfu has a match factory, and the half-dozen
shops carrying foreign goods show that the Chi-
nese are buying patent medicines, tooth brushes,
cosmetics, liqueurs, cigarettes, condensed milk,
underwear, lamps, clocks, spectacles, penknives,
and athletic goods. American kerosene sells for
forty-three cents a gallon, but at Yenchuan in the
north of the province, where there is an inex-
280 THE CHANGING CHINESE
haustible supply of petroleum, a uative refinery
is producing kerosene which, after two hundred
miles of cart carriage, sells here for thirty-one
cents.
When, in the days of Cromwell, the Manchu
Tartars overpowered China, they placed Tartar
garrisons in the chief cities. These "banner-
men," living a privileged caste in their own
fortified quarter and fed by government rice,
have vegetated and multiplied for generations.
In Sianfu the Tartar quarter is a dismal picture
of crumbling walls, decay, indolence and squalor.
On the big drill grounds you see the runways
along which the horseman gallops and shoots ar-
rows at a target while the Tartar military man-
darins look on. These lazy bannermen were
tried in the new army but proved flabby and
good-for-nothing; they would break down on an
ordinary twenty-mile march. Battening on their
hereditary pensions they have given themselves
up to sloth and vice, and their poor chest de-
velopment, small weak muscles, and diminishing
families foreshadow the early dying out of the
stock. Where is there a better illustration of
the truth that parasitism leads to degeneration!
The hope is in the new national army, and this
is one of its important recruiting centers, for the
Mohammedans of this province and Kansuh,
sprung in part from West Asian warriors, are
far more spirited and pugnacious than the pure
Chinese. There is a military preparatory school
here with two hundred students, and buildings
THE FAB WEST OF THE FAE EAST 281
are arising for what is to be one of the four
chief military schools of the Empire. In all the
public schools there is daily military drill.
Feeling the closing jaws of the vise, i. e., the
Powers, Chinese patriots are making the army
the national pet in order to raise the despised
calling of the soldier. Patriotic societies as-
semble the people and appeal to scholars and
other better elements to enlist. The students are
stirring up an agitation for the establishment of
a volunteer army. In some parts of the Empire,
especially in the provinces near to Peking, good
men are sought for the ranks, they are promptly
paid, and they are taught to make themselves
trig and neat. The men are proud of the uni-
form and the public is being taught to respect
it. When traveling, soldiers are no longer
herded in open trucks, but ride third-class. The
military ranks have been raised above the cor-
responding civil ranks. The officers are prod-
ucts of military schools not, as formerly, prize
essayists. Princes of the Blood hold high com-
mands and constantly wear their uniforms. The
infant Emperor has conferred upon the army the
supreme distinction of announcing himself as its
commander-in-chief.
Nevertheless, each province does pretty much
as it pleases, uniforms and equipments are not
yet standardized, and at least fifteen distinct
types of rifles are in use. Often the central
military authorities show an astonishing lack of
snap and efficiency. For example, they allow
282 THE CHANGING CHINESE
the testing of a foreign machine to train the men
to accurate shooting to be interrupted for the
hundred days of mourning after the late Em-
peror's death and again for five weeks at the
Chinese New Year. The following incident re-
veals the old listlessness in quarters where the
professional spirit ought to be at its keenest.
An American captain happened to show certain
Chinese officers at Peking a Browning revolver
which so pleased them that they inquired how
they, could obtain such a weapon. He volun-
teered to get them and presently orders for two
hundred were taken, mostly among officers of the
Imperial Guard. Since a government permit
(hu-chao) is necessary if you want to bring arms
into Cathay, the captain suggested to the officers
that of course they would procure the indispensa-
ble hu-chao. They said, "Oh, you get it," and
as he would not beseech the Chinese Government
for permission to import arms for its own de-
fenders, the revolvers never came.
All the four days to Fengsiangfu the road was
lined with reapers returning home to Kansuh.
At dawn they would be lying thick by the road-
side asleep, and a little later they would be crowd-
ing the eating stalls where our chair coolies rest
and smoke after three miles of carry. Here a
cent buys a big bowl of noodle soup or wheat
porridge with a large steamed roll and a sugared
doughnut, so the strings of hard-earned cash
tied about their waist suffered little. Each
carried pipe and tobacco pouch and on
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