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^ ,^' '^ o ^. .* x THE CHANGING CHINESE THE CHANGING CHINESE THE CONFLICT OF ORIENTAL AND WESTERN CULTURES IN CHINA BY EDWARD ALSWORTH ROSS, Ph.D., LL.D. PROFESSOR OF SOCIOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN AUTHOR OF "SOCIAL CONTROL," "FOUNDATIONS OF SOCIOLOGY," "SOCIAL PSYCHOLOGY," ETC. :! %S&&>rfs&44£ NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1911 -> Copyright, 1911, by The Century Co. Copyright, 1911, by The Ridgway Company Published, October, 1911 *V ©CI.A2 078G0 I The Cliff: of the Thousand Gods, on the Kialing River in North Szechuan TO DR. AMOS P. WILDER AMERICAN CONSUL GENERAL AT SHANGHAI FRIEND OF THE CHANGING CHINESE AND ELOQUENT 'INTERPRETER TO THEM OF THE BEST AMERICANISM THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE China to the Ranging Ete 3 Medieval aspect of the cities — Streets, water supply, light- ing and fuel — Contrast between Chinese and Japanese in point of neatness — Costume, pailows and pawn-shops — River traffic and the riverine population — Rural ties of city-dwellers — Characterizing influence of the loess — Ruth- less destruction of the forests — Calamitous results of de- forestation — No hope of improvement in our time — Why game is so plentiful — The Great Wall — Racial contrasts between Northern and Southern Chinese. CHAPTER II The Race Fiber of the Chinese 33 Selection and survival in China — Relentless elimination of the less fit — Testimony as to the effect upon race physique — Quick and sure recovery of the Chinese from grave wounds and surgical operations — Their comparative free- dom from blood poisoning, dysentery, typhoid and small- pox — Their bluntness of nerve — Diseases they fail to resist — The Chinese physique distinguished, not by a primitive vitality, but by specific immunities from the poisons of congested life — Their toleration of noxious microbes unique and not likely to be developed in other races — Military and industrial significance of the tough- ness of the Chinese. CHAPTER III The Race Mind of the Chinese 51 The Chinese reflective rather than impulsive — Their re- sponse to stimuli slow but strong and persistent — Their self-control, steadiness and reliability — Conservatism not a race trait, but a by-product of their social history — Cause of the early arrest of their cultural development — Prospect of the early release of the Chinese intellect from the spell of the past — Comparative ability of the viii CONTENTS PAGE yellow race and the white — Naturalness and likableness of the Chinese — Their sense of humor, politeness and re- spect for age — Why their old men are so often attractive — Mere borrowing cannot put them abreast of the West; they must establish a new relation between population and opportunities and this will take time. CHAPTER IV The Struggle for Existence in China 70 Extraordinary utilization of the soil — Aerial tillage — Made fields — Why the cities are scavenged for nothing — Queer foods — Strange gleanings and pilferings — Men kill- ing themselves by toil — Incredible poverty of the masses — Absence of comfort — Cheapening of human life — Why the Chinese are so cohesive and clannish — Why so utili- tarian — No cause for such a struggle for existence save over-population — How ancestor worship whets the desire for large families — Marriage early and universal — Pro- creative recklessness and the appalling infant mortality resulting therefrom — Famines and migrations — The Chi- nese death-rate will be brought down sooner than the birth-rate — Prospect of extreme overcrowding and out- thrust — Chinese emigration likely to become a world question. CHAPTER V The Industrial Future of China 112 The military "yellow peril" a bogey — Difficulty of reviv- ing the fighting spirit in the Chinese — The industrial "yellow peril" — Amazing cheapness of labor in China — Factories rapidly springing up — But China herself offers an enormous market for their products — Low wages not the same as low labor-cost — Not enough capital to build railways and also expand manufactures — How a rapa- cious government paralyzes the spirit of enterprise — Untrustworthiness of the Chinese in joint-stock under- takings — Nepotism and favoritism, place-holders and sine- curists — The problem of the foreign expert — Inefficiency of native management — Oriental competition will be our grandchildren's problem. CHAPTER VI The Grapple With the Opium Evil 139 Growth and extent of the luxury-use of opium — Why the opium pipe is so seductive to the Chinese — Why society has been so slow to react against the vice — Motive be- CONTENTS ix PAGE hind the Anti-Opium Edict — Provisions of the Edict — Economic difficulties in the way of suppressing opium- growing — Tragic incidents of the fight on the poppy — Practical results of the campaign — Testing the mandarins for smoking — Increasing restrictions on the sale and use of opium — The Foochow policy — The impression on public opinion and current moral standards — The agreement with England — The end of opium in sight — Lessons from China's experience. CHAPTER VII Unbinding the Women of China 174 Extent, motives and consequences of foot-binding — The missionaries initiate the fight against the custom — Work of the Natural-Foot Society — Support from the Empress Dowager — Progress of the reform in the upper classes — Foot-binding still wide-spread and will die out but slowly. Inferior position of the female in the family — Chinese opinion of woman's character — Relative value of the two sexes — The female exists for the sake of the male — So- cial intercourse organized for men — No mixed society — The status of the daughter in the family — Rearing mar- riages, child-betrothals and parental match-making — Heart-binding even more damaging to woman's health than foot-binding — The bride's subjection to her mother- in-law — Point of view of a Confucian — The revolt of the silk-reelers against marriage — Mission-school girls — Gov- ernment education of girls — Freer customs — "Liberty girls" — The effect of female emancipation upon the fu- ture of the Chinese. CHAPTER VIII Christianity in China 216 Lama worship compared with practical Christianity — The low plane of Chinese religions — The people saturated with superstition — The mission force in China — How the Chinese explain the presence of the missionary — Cause of anti-missionary outbreaks — Changing attitude of the mandarins — Contrast of aims between British missions and American — New conceptions of mission work — "Rice Christians" — Transforming power of Christianity — What conversion entails — Deceptive "mass-movements" — What the higher classes think — Types drawn to the Christian ideal — The higher standing of daughter and wife among converts — The indirect and unseen fruits of missionary labor — Animus of critics — Missionary mistakes and prob- lems — Reaction of missionary work upon native faiths — Future of Christianity in China. x CONTENTS CHAPTER IX PAGE The Fab West of the Far East 260 Chinese highways — Signal towers — Monuments — Cost of carriage — The currency problem — Strange aspect of the country — Idyllic harvesting — Havoc wrought by deforesta- tion — What is lost when the woods go — Missionary life and work — Sianfu — The Pei-lin — Religious rivalry — The Tartar bannermen — The new army — Itinerant harvesters — Fgngsiangfu — Mountaineers of West Shensi — "Eoad of the Golden Ox" — Highway neglect — Characterizing influ- ence of rice culture — The great road of North Szechuan — Packmen — Beauty of West-China types — Ravages of disease — Squalor and dreariness of life in overpeopled Szechuan — The Chengtu plain — Incredible productiveness — Manure traps — Irrigation wheels — Progressiveness of Chengtu — What holds the Chinese back — Why the mar- tial virtues vanished — The hampering ideals of the scholar type — How to unleash the native energy of the race. CHAPTER X The New Education 310 Medievalism of Chinese thinking — Ignorance of the prin- ciple of efficiency — Secret of the impotence of old China in coping with Western nations — Characteristics of the old education — Motives to the introduction of the West- ern branches — The scope of present education in China — Inefficient management of the higher schools — Sinecurism — Poor use of the foreign teacher — The overloaded course of study — Errors of the Board of Education — Traits of the Chinese student — Indications as to his capacity — His lack of discipline, reliance upon mass action, and contempt for manual labor — His poor physique and neg- lect of physical training — His attitude towards sports — The burden of the ideographic language; efforts at sim- plification — The reaction of the educational revolution upon moral standards — The golden opportunity of the mission colleges. Index 347 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE The Cliff of the Thousand Gods, on the Kialing River in North Szechuan Frontispiece A pottery — the walls built with defective pots 5 <•-' A blocked path 5 Typical ornamental gateways 10 House-boats lining a river avenue 15 Indian bullock in a Quangsi bullock-cart 20 A Peking cart 20 A half-buried gate-tower 26 A silted-up bridge in Shansi. One of the ultimate results of deforestation 26 The great wall 31 A Canton water-front crowd 37 " Station platform faces 37 '-' The river stairs up which all the water for Chungking is borne 44 v Scene in the Imperial City, Peking 49 1^ Hovel on beach at Kiukiang. Over the door the character for "happiness" 49 \S~ A police squad in Sianfu 56 ^ Meeting of the first provincial assembly of the Province of Fokien, Foochow, October, 1909 56 '"" Altar, Temple of Heaven, Peking 59 View in the Temple grounds of the Ming Tombs. Mountains near Peking 59 A rustic Endymion of West China 67 ^ An old farmer 67 Cave dwelling of a coal miner 76 ■ Perfected tillage of the valley of an affluent of the Wei River 76 '• Junk on the Yangtse 81 v ~ Fishing with cormorants 81 What passes for a public highway 88 A common carrier 88 One of the three life boats that escorted us through the gorges 93 LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS PAGE An ancient mariner 93 ^ Braving the Yangtse flood. Cliff swallows' nests at Chung- king 100 v A wayside beggar 107 l/ ' Professional beggar dinning to make a shopkeeper contribute 107 " The railway police at a station 115 ' Chinese officers 115* Tracking a junk through the gorges of the Yangtse . . . 121 ^ Working a Yangtse junk with oar and sweep 124 v Cash equivalent to $3.15, weight 50 lbs. . .' . . . . . 129 £/ A slow freight on the Great Northern Road 129 w ' Weighing silver ingots in a Sianfu bank 135/ A protected monument at Sianfu 135 v/ Family and home vanishing into the opium pipe .... 144 v South half of the west wall of Sianfu, from the west gate . 147 City wall and five-story pagoda, Canton 147 Opium pipes confiscated by the Anti-Opium Society . . . 154 Captives of the lamp and pipe 162 Death in the lamp of the opium smoker 165 Burning of opium pipes and other paraphernalia confiscated by the Foochow Anti-Opium Society (eighth time) . . 167 An old Chinese garden at Taiku 186' Flower pagoda, Canton 186 One of the south gates into the Tartar City, Peking . . . 191 17 Temple of Five Hundred Genii, Canton 191 Gate between two provinces in West China 200 Scenic archway at the crest of a mountain pass 200 No chance for them 208 Joss house, Foochow and Baby Tower where girl infants are thrown when not wanted 208 One of two hundred day schools organized by a Foochow mis- sionary 213 A bride's canopy, Peking 213 High altar of a Buddhist temple of the Kushan monastery . 221 v Temple in a gorge, Kushan monastery 221 >' A wealthy Shansi family of foreignizing tendencies . . . 226 Monks of Kushan Monastery 226 A noble type of Christian 232 l/ A distinguished pastor whose face reveals the high possibili- ties of his race 232 How a road wears down into the loess 237 v LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS PAGE Buddhist monks on pilgrimage to Wutaiskan on the Five Sa- cred Mountains 237 ^ Temple in Canton 243 * An Alpine road in western Shensi 248' ^ Monastery on the "Little Orphan" isle on the Yangtse . . 248 t -'' A Cliff shrine near the northern frontier of Szechuan . . 254 ^ Looking south from the Bell Tower, Sianfu 263 ^ The east gate of Taiyuanfu, showing macadamized street . 263 l/ An ancient ornamental gate over the Southwestern Highroad 269 - One of the ancient brick signal-towers occurring every three miles on the Southwestern highroad uniting Peking with the remote provinces 269 The type of public monument universal in Shansi .... 278 Grave-stones, Chihli 278 Cedars on the main road across Northern Szechuan. Each tree is protected by a tablet warning against depredation 283 Patriarch on the highway. Willows line the road most of the way from Tungkwan to Sianfu 283 Ferrying across the Yellow Biver 292 Houses with brick stoops and benches, showing resort to mud and brick in a timberless country 292 Noontide in a street of Paisiang 300 ' y In the valley of the Wei 300 A horseshoe tomb in a South China hillside 305 Coffins in rest-house waiting for the lucky day 305 Outlook tower of the Temple of the Flowing Waters in South- ern Shensi. Founded about 200 B. C 313 ^ Wayfarers resting in the shade of a tree protected by the monuments and the temple 320 Traffic through the loess en route to the distant railroad . . 320 The seething whirlpools in the gorges of the Yangtse . . . 329 In the gorges of the Upper Yangtse 329 u PKEFACE The old China hand is quite sure one can get nowhere by a diligent half year of travel and in- quiry in the Far East. "I have been here thirty years," says the Chief Engineer, "and the longer I stay the less I understand these people." "I thought I had made them out after I had lived here a couple of years," says the Trader, "but the longer I am here the queerer they seem." No traveler, if he consults the old treaty-port resi- dents, will ever find courage to write anything about the Chinese. The fact is, to the traveler who appreciates how different is the mental horizon that goes with an- other stage of culture or another type of social organization than his own, the Chinese do not seem very puzzling. Allowing for difference in outfit of knowledge and fundamental ideas, they act much as we should act under their circum- stances. The theory, dear to literary inter- preters of the Orient, that owing to diversity in xvi PEEFACE mental constitution the yellow man and the white man can never comprehend or sympathize with one another, will appeal little to those who from their comparative study of societies- have gleaned some notion of what naturally follows from isola- tion, the acute struggle for existence, ancestor worship, patriarchal authority, the subjection of women, the decline of militancy, and the ascend- ancy of scholars. Edward Alsworth Koss„ THE CHANGING CHINESE THE CHANGING CHINESE CHAPTEE I CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE CHINA is the European Middle Ages made visible. All the cities are walled and the walls and gates have been kept in repair with an eye to their effectiveness. The mandarin has his headquarters only in a walled fortress-city and to its shelter he retires when a sudden tempest of rebellion vexes the peace of his district. The streets of the cities are narrow, crooked, poorly-paved, filthy and malodorous. In North China they admit the circulation of the heavy springless carts by which alone passengers are carried ; but, wherever rice is cultivated, the mule is eliminated and the streets are adapted only to the circulation of wheel-barrows and pedes- trians. There is little or no assertion of the public interest in the highway and hence private interests close in upon the street and well-nigh block it. The shopkeeper builds his counter in front of his lot line ; the stalls line the street with their crates and baskets; the artisans overflow into it with their workbenches, and the final result is that the traffic filters painfully through 3 4 THE CHANGING CHINESE a six-foot passage which would be yet more en- croached on but for the fact that the officials in- sist on there being room left for their sedan chairs to pass each other. The straitened streets are always crowded and give the traveler the impression of a high density and an enormous population. But the buildings are chiefly one story in height and, with the exception of Peking, Chinese cities cover no very great area. For literary effect their population has been recklessly exaggerated and, in the absence of reliable statistics, every trav- eler has felt at liberty to adopt the highest guess. Until recently there was no force in the cities to maintain public order. Now, khaki-clad po- licemen, club in hand, patrol the streets, but their efficiency in time of tumult is by no means vin- dicated. A slouching, bare-foot, mild-faced gen- darme such as you see in Canton is by no means an awe-inspiring embodiment of the majesty of the law. There is no common supply of water. When a city lies by a river the raw river water is borne about to the houses by regular water-carriers and the livelong day the river-stairs are wet from the drip of buckets. When the water is too thick it is partially clarified by stirring it with a perforated joint of bamboo containing some pieces of alum. There is no public lighting and after nightfall the streets are dark, forbidding, and little fre- quented. Until kerosene began to penetrate the A pottery — the walls built with defective pots A blocked, path _ CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 7 Empire the common source of light was a candle in a paper lantern or a cotton wick lighted in an open cup of peanut oil. Owing to the lack of a good illuminant the bulk of the people retire with the fowls and rise with the sun. By mak- ing the evening of some account for reading or for family intercourse, kerosene has been a great boon to domestic life. Fuel is scarce and is sold in neat bundles of kindling size. Down the West Eiver ply innu- merable boats corded high with firewood floating down to Canton and Hong Kong. Higher and higher the tree destruction extends and farther and farther does the axman work his way from the waterways. Chaff and straw, twigs and leaves and litter are burned in the big brick bed- steads that warm the sleepers on winter nights and under the big shallow copper vessels set in the low brick or mud stoves. Fuel is econo- mized and household economy simplified among the poor by the custom of relying largely on the food cooked and vended in the street. The port- able restaurant is in high favor, for our preju- dice against food cooked outside the home is a luxury the common people cannot afford to in- dulge in. Proper chimneys are wanting and wherever cooking goes on the walls are black with the smoke that is left to escape as it will. Chinese interiors are apt to be dark for, in the absence of window glass, the only means of letting in light without weather is by pasting paper on 8 THE CHANGING CHINESE lattice. The floors are dirt, brick or tile, the roof tile or thatch. To the passer-by private ease and luxury are little in evidence. If a man has house and grounds of beauty, a high wall hides them from the gaze of the public. Open lawns and gardens are never seen and there is no greenery accessible to the public unless it be the grove of an occasional temple. In the houses of the wealthy, although there is much beauty to be seen, the standard of neat- ness is not ours. Cobwebs, dust, or incipient dilapidation do not excite the servant or mortify the proprietor. While a mansion may contain priceless porcelains and display embroideries and furniture that would be pronounced beauti- ful the world over, in general, the interiors wrought by the Chinese artisan do not compare in finish with those of his Western confrere. Most striking is the contrast between China and Japan in respect to neatness. The Chinese seem neglectful, and ignorant of the art of care- taking and repair. They have never acted on the maxim "a stitch in time saves nine." They prefer to build new rather than to keep up the old. With " China" rise recollections of tat- tered mat sails catching the wind like a sieve, leaning and crumbling walls, sagging temple roofs, moss-grown loosened tiles, cracked pave- ments, ragged thatch, rotting ceiling-cloths, rick- ety screens and paved roads with their stones tilting and broken. In Japan everything looks spick and span — thatch well trimmed, walls well CHINA TO THE RANGING EYE 11 washed, mats bright, roads in good repair, piles of rubbish nowhere to be seen. Nothing have I seen to compare with it save in Holland, Nor- mandy and parts of England. After the memor- able inundations of August, 1910, the celerity with which these wonderful Japanese cleaned up and set things in order was marvelous. About Japanese cottages you see none of the piles of rubbish, muck heaps, dirty pools, mud holes, sagging roofs, toppling walls, rotting thatch or loose stones one notices about most Chinese villages. When a roof, wall, fence, hedge, dam, bridge, or path is damaged, it is re- paired at once. Among us, only New England and places settled from Yankeedom can compare with Japan in tidiness. No memory of China is more haunting than that of the everlasting blue cotton garments. The common people wear coarse deep-blue "nankeen." The gala dress is a cotton gown of a delicate bird's-egg blue or a silk jacket of rich hue. In cold weather the poor wear quilted cot- ton, while the well-to-do keep themselves warm with fur-lined garments of silk. A general adop- tion of Western dress would bring on an economic crisis, for the Chinese are not ready to rear sheep on a great scale and it will be long before they can supply themselves with wool. The Chinese jacket is fortunate in opening at the side instead of at the front. When the winter winds of Peking gnaw at you with Siberian teeth, you realize how stupid is our Western way 12 THE CHANGING CHINESE of cutting a notch in front right down through overcoat, coat and vest, apparently in order that the cold may do its worst to the tender throat and chest. On seeing the sensible Chinaman bring his coat squarely across his front and fasten it on his shoulder, you feel like an exposed totem- worshiper. Wherever stone is to be had, along or spanning the main roads are to be seen the memorial arches known as pailows erected by imperial permission to commemorate some deed or life of extraor- dinary merit. It is significant that when they proclaim achievement, it is that of the scholar, not that of the warrior. They enclose a central gateway flanked by two and sometimes by four smaller gateways, and comform closely to a few standard types, all of real beauty. As a well- built pailow lasts for centuries and as the erection of such a memorial is one of the first forms of outlay that occur to a philanthropic Chinaman, they accumulate, and sometimes the road near cities is lined with these structures until' one wearies of so much repetition of the same thing however beautiful. In South-China cities a tall moat-girt building, six or seven stories high, flat-topped and with small windows high up, towers over the mean houses like a medieval donjon keep. It is the pawnshop, which also serves the public as bank and safety deposit vault for the reason that it can for some hours bid defiance to any robber at- tack. In the larger centers sumptuous guild- CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 13 halls are to be seen and the highly embellished club-houses of the men from other provinces, who feel themselves as truly strangers in a strange land as did the Flemish or the Hansa traders in the London of the thirteenth century. Some- times men from different provinces join in es- tablishing such headquarters and I recall in Sianfu the stately ' ' Tri-province Club" accom- modating strangers from Szechuan, Shansi and Honan. In the absence of good roads and draft animals the utmost use has been made of the countless waterways and there are probably as many boats in China as in all the rest of the world. No- where else are there such clever river-people, no- where else is there so lavish an application of man-muscle to water movement. The rivers are alive with junks propelled by rowers who oc- cupy the forward deck and stand as they ply the oar. Sixteen or eighteen rowers man the bigger boats and as, bare to the waist, they forge by in rhythmic swing chanting their song of labor the effect is fine. Save when there is a stiff breeze to sail with, the up-river junks are towed along the bank, and, as no tow-path has ever been built, the waste of toil in scrambling along slippery banks, clambering over rocks or creep- ing along narrow ledges with the tow-rope is distressing to behold. In the South population is forced from the land onto the water and myriads pass their lives in sampans and house-boats. In good weather these 14 THE CHANGING CHINESE poor families, living as it were in a single small room with a porch at either end, seem as happy as people anywhere. There is no landlord to threaten eviction, no employer to grind them down, no foreman to speed them np. There is infinite variety in the stirring life of river and foreshore that passes under their eyes; the bab- ble and chatter never cease and no one need ever feel lonely. The tiny home can be kept with a Dutch cleanliness for water is always to be had with a sweep of the arm. They pay no rent and can change neighbors, residence, scenery or oc- cupation when they please. No people is more natural, animated and self-expressive, for they have simplified life without impoverishing it and have remained free even under the very harrow- tooth of poverty. Their children, little river Arabs, have their wits sharpened early and not for long is the baby tied to a sealed empty jar that by floating will mark his location in case he tumbles into the water. The year-old child knows how to take care of himself. The tot of three or four can handle the oar or the pole and is as sharp as our boys of six or seven. Nothing escapes their pry- ing black eyes and they can coax coppers out of you as prettily as any Italian bambino. Although the gates of the Chinese city close at night, the city is by no means so cut off from the open country as with us. The man in the street never quite lets go of his kinsfolk in the rural village. When, a little while ago, ship CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 17 building and repairing became dull in Hong Kong, there was no hanging of the unemployed about the wharves, not because they had found other jobs, but because most of them had dis- persed to their ancestral seats in the country, there to work on the old place till times im- proved. The man's family always give him a chance and there is rice in the pot for him and his. Nor is this tie with the mother-stem al- lowed to decay with the lapse of time. The suc- cessful merchant registers his male children in the ancestral temple of his clan, contributes to its upkeep and is entitled to his portion of roast- pork on the occasion of the yearly clan festival, visits the old home during the holidays, sends money back so that his people may buy more land, takes his children out so they will get ac- quainted and perhaps lets them pass their boy- hood in the ancestral village so that, after he is gone, they will love and cherish the old tie to the soil. By such means, provided war or flood or famine has not uprooted the stock, a city family, even after the lapse of generations, retains a con- nection with its rural kindred. A Chinese city is not, therefore, a genuine civic community but rather an agglomeration of persons who are members of numerous little groups. No doubt the establishment of municipal councils and the grant to the citizens of control over their com- mon affairs will tend to create a community- spirit and weaken the feeling for the rural clan. The mementos of the departed are so promi- 18 THE CHANGING CHINESE nent that one might hesitate to say whether China belongs to the living or to the dead. The dead have been interred in burial places of families or clans, not collected into cemeteries. In the vicinity of the cities the landscape is pustuled with graves and the dedication of the land to this pious use makes very difficult an extra-mural growth of the city. The campus of the Canton Christian College represents three hundred and sixty separate conveyances and is still dotted with grave sites, the owners of which refuse to sell. "Best houses" are provided where encoffined bodies are kept for months, sometimes for years, until a lucky day and place for interment are discovered by the geomancer. The Chinese coffin is put together not of boards but of split hollowed logs and this pious but ex- travagant custom has something to answer for in the denuded appearance of the country. Some of the most characteristic impressions of China are connected with the great loess deposit that mantles the larger part of North China to the depth sometimes of hundreds of feet. Geol- ogists interpret it as an accumulation of the dust that the prevailing winds blowing from the arid in- terior of Asia have sifted over the country. It is unstratified, splits vertically, contains land shells but no marine shells, and shows vertical tubes as big as a needle which are supposed to have been left by the decay of the roots of the grass that clothed the surface as the deposit slowly built up. "Where this mantle of dust fell on the Indian bullock in a Quangsi bullock-cart A Peking cart CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 21 mountains it was soon worn thin so that the bones of the land protrude. But what has been washed from the steeper slopes has settled about their base, filled up the lesser depressions and softened the original outlines of the country. The streams have cut down through the loess and are all deeply stained with its characteristic brown-yellow. Sweeping along so much of it they cannot maintain a free channel for heavy navi- gation and after they debouch upon the plain they are prone to choke their bed and shift their course. It is the loess that gives us Yellow Eiver, Yellow Sea, Yellow Emperor (Hwangti) and makes yellow the imperial color. The north- ern half of the Peking-Hankow Eailway trav- erses a vast yellow universe with scarcely a stone, hill or tree. The soil and the streams are yellow, the flat-roofed houses are yellow, the walls of cities and villages are yellow. The air is yellow with dust, the vegetation is coated with it, the yellow people and their clothing are pow- dered with it, and everything melts into the most monochrome countryside peopled by civilized men. The loess slices like cheese and after three or four years the marks of pick and spade are still plain on the sides of the railway cuttings. Hence most of the people in the mountains house them- selves simply by digging a cave in a bank which when plastered gives them a clean dry habita- tion, warm in winter, cool in summer, and ex- cellent in everything save ventilation. Some of 22 THE CHANGING CHINESE these have two or three stories, boast framed windows and doorways, and are well furnished. It is rather startling, however, to look over a broad flat country checkered with fields in a state of high cultivation and see no roads, houses, people or domestic animals. The roads have cut their way into the loess and run at the bottom of canyons sometimes seventy or eighty feet deep. In the cliffs that line the roads and watercourses the viewless population have carved their dwellings and stables. In China the notion of an undistributed public good distinct from private goods has never es- tablished itself in the general mind. The State has been tribute-taker rather than guardian of the general welfare, so the community is sacri- ficed to the individual, the public to the local group, and posterity to the living. Along the Wei Eiver great quantities of quick-growing trees are scattered amid the crops while the mountains two or three miles away are denuded. Instead of growing their wood and fuel on the rough land which is good for nothing else, they grow it in their fields to the detriment of their crops because, in the absence of public administration, the mountains are a no-man's land which all may ravage and abuse. The destruction of the remaining forests goes on apace for the officials are utterly indifferent. In North Chihli near Jehol there has recently been a great butchery of what was but a few years ago a noble forest. One finds enough fine CHINA TO THE BANGING EYE 23 straight poles of larch and pine piled up to string a telegraph wire a thousand miles. There they lie rotting while crooked willow carries the wires. No doubt some official got his "squeeze" out of the cutting of the trees for these poles, and now nobody cares what becomes of them. On the Kowloon hills opposite Hong Kong there are frightful evidences of erosion due to deforesta- tion several hundred years ago. The loose soil has been washed away till the country is knobbed or blistered with great granite boulders. North of the Gulf of Tonkin I am told that not a tree is to be seen and the surviving balks between the fields show that much land once cultivated has become waste. Erosion stripped the soil down to the clay and the farmers had to abandon the land. The denuded hill-slopes facing the West Eiver have been torn and gullied till the red earth glows through the vegetation like blood. The coast hills of Fokien have lost most of their soil and show little but rocks. Fuel-gatherers constantly climb about them grubbing up shrubs and pulling up the grass. No one tries to grow trees unless he can live in their midst and so prevent their being stolen. The higher ranges further back have been stripped of their trees but not of their soil for, owing to the greater rainfall they receive, a verdant growth quickly springs up and protects their flanks. Deep-gullied plateaus of the loess, guttered hillsides, choked water-courses, silted-up bridges, sterilized bottom lands, bankless wandering 24 THE CHANGING CHINESE rivers, dyked torrents that have built up their beds till they meander at the level of the tree- tops, mountain brooks as thick as pea soup, tes- tify to the changes wrought once the reckless ax has let loose the force of running water to re- sculpture the landscape. No river could drain the friable loess of Northwest China without bringing down great quantities of soil that would raise its bed and make it a menace in its lower, sluggish course. But if the Yellow Eiver is more and more "China's Sorrow" as the centuries tick -off, it is because the rain runs off the de- forested slopes of its drainage basin like water off the roof of a house and in the wet season rolls down terrible floods which burst the im- mense and costly embankments, spread like a lake over the plain and drown whole populations. The British in Kowloon and the Germans in Kia- ochow have made beginnings in re-afforestation; but, save for some plantations for growing sleep- ers which the Peking-Hankow Bail way Company has made on the flanks of the mountains in North- ern Hupeh, one sees no restoration by the Chinese themselves. If the Chinese had not so early rid themselves of feudalism the country might have profited, as did Europe during the Middle Ages, by the harsh forest laws and the vast wooded preserves of a hunting nobility; or a policy of national conservation would have availed if be- gun five centuries ago. Now, however, nothing will meet the dire need of China but a long scientific, recuperative treatment far more ex- A half -buried gate-tower A silted-up bridge in Shansi. One of the ultimate results of deforestation CHINA TO THE RANGING EYE 27 tensive and thorough-going than even the most enlightened European governments have at- tempted. Since that is clearly beyond the fore- sight and administrative capacity of this genera- tion of Chinese, the slow physical deterioration of the country may be expected to continue dur- ing our time. Despite absence of game protection, China con- tains far more wild life than one would expect. Tigers and leopards abound in some parts, ducks swirl above the Yangtse in flocks of ten thou- sand and many foreigners find royal sport for the hunter within reach of the treaty ports. One reason for so much game in an old thickly-set- tled country is that Chinese gentlemen have had no taste for the chase, and delight in the de- struction of life is not general; another is that the government puts so many obstacles in the way of the people obtaining firearms that they lack the means of killing game. The Great "Wall is undoubtedly the grandest and most impressive handiwork of man. Be- side its colossal bulk our boasted railway em- bankments and tunnels seem the work of pyg- mies. Save the Pyramids of Egypt and the Panama Canal there is no prodigy of toil to be mentioned in the same breath with it. The brick and stone in every fifty miles of this wall would rear a pyramid higher than that of Cheops — and there are at least seventeen hundred miles of it! At Nankow Pass the wall is wide enough for seven or eight men to march abreast along its 28 THE CHANGING CHINESE top, twenty feet high, faced with hewn stone, battlemented, and is strengthened every forty or fifty rods by huge towers ten yards square in- side. It clambers boldly up the steepest slopes, creeps along the sheer precipices, and springs from height to height leaving a square crenel- lated tower on every crown. It follows the comb of the mountains in order that the ground may slope from it both ways. It zigzags from crest to crest, dips into ravines and reappears mount- ing the range beyond, so that it is seen in frag- ments, the linking parts being hidden in the de- files. For perhaps thirty miles the eye follows this serpent in stone now streaking up the slopes, now passing across the line of vision defined against the black of the mountains beyond, now cutting the afternoon sky with its battlements as it follows some distant ridge. To the north the mountains drop away into foothills each crowned with its watch-tower. Then a plain, another range of mountains with another wall, and, beyond, the bleak wind-swept plateau of Mongolia. As one looked one could in imagination see snag-toothed, thin-mustached nomads, in sheep- skin coats with the fleece turned inside, halt on their shaggy ponies, rest the butts of their spears on the ground and search with restless disappoint- ed eyes for some weak spot in this wall that had never barred the path of their plundering fore- fathers. And no doubt the parapet of the wall was lined with Chinese soldiers in blue nankeen CHINA TO THE RANGING EYE 29 who jeered at the discomfiture of their dreaded hereditary enemies and shot arrows at them through the slits in the stone. Now, thanks to Buddhism and the Lama priests who have taken all the fierceness out of the Mongols, the wall is useless. Endless traffic streams unafraid through the gateway at the pass. Mile-long trains of great shaggy two-humped camels stalk by, bring- ing in wool and hides and timber or taking out brick tea, matches and kerosene. That the Chinese are more homogeneous in civilization than in blood comes out clearly when one compares the Southern Chinese with the Northern. The people of Chihli, in which Peking is situated, must be at least six inches taller than the Cantonese and the Hakkas. They show the effect of the series of admixtures of Tartar blood, for they are big sturdy people with a fresh color and a frank eye. The railway guards look and act like green, honest, good-natured American lads fresh from the farm. They are deliberate of movement and slow in mental processes, but make good friends and good fighters. In the South people are smaller, yellower, less manly and less courageous. The ugly, wrinkled, cat- like wily Chinamen of dime-novel fiction come from the South. They are quicker of wit than the Northerners but harder for us to understand or trust. Upon the Canton type is built the cher- ished literary legend of the unfathomableness and superhuman craftiness of the Oriental. The Northern Chinese, although less fertile in 30 THE CHANGING CHINESE ideas, appear to be steadier in character than the Cantonese and more faithful. They are truer to their friends and, owing to their mutual trust, they combine better. For this reason they may be able to work the joint-stock company better than the keen, clever merchants of the South and hence take the lead in industrial development. The great wall CHAPTER II THE KACE FIBEK OF THE CHINESE OUT of ten children born among us three, normally the weakest three, will fail to grow up. Out of ten children horn in China these weakest three will die and probably five more be- sides. The difference is owing to the hardships that infant life meets with among the Chinese. If at birth the white infants and the yellow in- fants are equal in stamina, the two surviving Chinese ought to possess greater vitality of con- stitution than the seven surviving whites. For of these seven the five that would infallibly have perished under Oriental conditions of life are presumably weaker in constitution than the two who could have endured even such con- ditions. The two Chinese survivors will trans- mit some of their superior vitality to their off- spring; and these in turn will be subject to the same sifting, so that the surviving two-tenths will pass on to their children a still greater vitality. Hence these divergent child mortalities drive, as it were, a wedge between the physiques of the two races. If, now, for generations we whites, owing to room and plenty and scientific medicine and knowledge of hygiene, have been subject to a less searching and relentless elimination of the 33 34 THE CHANGING CHINESE weaker children than the Chinese, it would be reasonable to expect the Chinese to exhibit a greater vitality than the whites. With a view to ascertaining whether the marked slackening in our struggle for life during the last century or two and our greater skill in keeping people alive has produced noticeable effects on our physique, I closely questioned thirty-three physicians practicing in various parts of China, usually at mission hospitals. Of these physicians only one, a very intelligent German doctor at Tsingtao, had noticed no point of superiority in his Chinese patients. He de- clared them less resistant to injury, less respon- sive to treatment and no more enduring of pain than the simple and hardy peasants of Thuringia amongst whom he had formerly practiced. Three other physicians, each of whom had practiced a quarter century or more in China, had observed no difference in the physical reactions of the two races. I fancy their recollections of their brief student practice at home had so faded with time that they lacked one of the terms of the com- parison. Moreover, two of these admitted under questioning that the Chinese do stand high fevers remarkably well and that they do recover from blood poisoning when a white man would die. The remaining twenty-nine physicians were positive that the Chinese physique evinces some superiority or other over that of their home peo- ple. As regards surgical cases, the general opin- ion is voiced by one English surgeon who said, THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 35 "They do pull through jolly well!" It was com- monly observed that surgical shock is rare, and that the proportion of recoveries from serious cuttings is as high in the little, poorly equipped, semi-aseptic mission hospitals of China as in the perfectly appointed, aseptic hospitals at home. Dr. Kinnear of Foochow, recently home from a furlough in Germany, found that in treating phlegma of the hand he, with his poor equipment and native assistants, gets as good results as the great Von Bergman working under ideal condi- tions on the artisan population of Berlin. The opinion prevails that under equal conditions the Chinese will make a surer and quicker recovery from a major operation than the white. Many never get over being astonished at the recovery of the Chinese from terrible injuries. I was told of a coolie who had his abdomen torn open in an accident, and who was assisted to the hospital supported by a man on either side and holding his bowels in his hands. He was sewed up and, in spite of the contamination that must have gotten into the abdomen, made a quick recov- ery! Amazing also is the response to the treat- ment of neglected wounds. A boy whose severed fingers had been hastily stuck on anyhow and bound up with dirty rags came to the hospital after a week with a horrible hand and showing clear symptoms of lockjaw. They washed his hand and sent him home to die. In three days he was about without a sign of lockjaw. A man whose fingers had been crushed under a cart some 36 THE CHANGING CHINESE days before came in with blood-poisoning all up Ms arm and in the glands under the arm. The trouble vanished under simple treatment. A pa- tient will be brought in with a high fever from a wound of several days ' standing full of maggots ; yet after the wound is cleansed the fever quickly subsides. A woman who had undergone a serious operation for cancer of the breast suffered infec- tion and had a fever of 106° during which her husband fed her with hard water chestnuts. Nev- ertheless, she recovered. Nearly all are struck by the resistance of the Chinese to blood-poisoning. From my note books I gather such expressions as, "Blood-poisoning very rare; more resistant than we are to septi- caemia"; "Belative immunity to pus-producing germs"; "More resistant to gangrene than we are; injuries which at home would cause serious gangrene do not do so here"; "Peculiarly resist- ant to infection"; "With badly gangrened wounds in the extremities show very little fever and quickly get well"; "Women withstand septicaemia in maternity cases wonderfully well, recovering after the doctors have given them up " ; " Eecover from septicaemia after a week of high fever that would kill a white man." No wonder there is a saying rife among the foreign doctors, "Don't give up a Chinaman till he's dead." In the South, where foot binding is not preva- lent, the women bear their children very easily, with little outcry, and are expected to be up in a day or two. Dr. Swan of Canton relates that A Canton water-front crowd Station platform faces THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 39 more than once on calling for a sampan to take him across the river he has been asked to wait a quarter or a half an hour. By that time the mis- tress of the boat would have given birth to a child, laid it in a corner among some rags, and be ready to row him across! In childbirth the woman attended by a dirty old midwife in a filthy hovel escapes puerperal fever under conditions that would certainly kill a white woman. In cases of difficult birth, when after a couple of days the white physician is called in and removes the dead infant, the woman has some fever but soon re- covers. The women, moreover, are remarkably free from displacements and other troubles pecul- iar to the sex. Living in a supersaturated, man-stifled land, profoundly ignorant of the principles of hygiene, the masses have developed an immunity to noxious microbes which excites the wonder and envy of the foreigner. They are not affected by a mos- quito bite that will raise a large lump on the lately- come foreigner. They can use contaminated water from canals without incurring dysentery. There is very little typhoid and what there is occurs in such mild form that it was long doubted to be typhoid. The fact was settled affirmatively only by laboratory tests. All physicians agree that among the Chinese smallpox is a mild dis- ease. One likened it to the mumps. Organic heart trouble, usually the result of rheumatic fever, is declared to be very rare. It is universally remarked that in taking chloro- 40 THE CHANGING CHINESE form the Chinese rarely pass through an excited stage, but go off very quietly. From after-nausea they are almost wholly free. One physician of twenty-five years' practice has never had a death from chloroform, although he has not administered ether half a dozen times. The fact is, however, they stolidly endure operations which we would never perform without anesthetics. Small tumors are usually thus removed and, in extracting teeth, gas is never administered. Sometimes extensive cutting, e. g., the removal of a tumor reaching down into and involving the excision of the de- cayed end of a rib, is borne without flinching. Only three physicians interviewed failed to re- mark the insensibility of their patients to pain. Here, perhaps, is the reason why no people in the world have used torture so freely as the Chinese. This bluntness of nerve, however, does not appear to be universal. The scholars, who usually neg- lect to balance their intense brain work with due physical exercise, are not stoical. The meat-eat- ing and wine-bibbing classes lack the insensibility of the vegetarian, non-alcoholic masses. The self-indulgent gentry, who shun all activity, bodily or mental, and give themselves up to sensual grati- fication, are very sensitive to pain and very fear- ful of it. Some make the point, therefore, that the oft-noted dullness of sensibility is not a race trait, but a consequence of the involuntary simplicity and temperateness of life of the common Chinese. One doctor remarks that at home it is the reg- ular thing for a nervous chill to follow the pass- THE EACE FIBEE OF THE CHINESE 41 ing of a sound into the bladder, whereas among his patients it seldom occurs. Another co mm ents on the rarity of neurasthenia and nervous dys- pepsia. The chief of the army medical staff points out that during the autumn manceuvers the soldiers sleep on damp ground with a little straw under them without any ill effects. I have seen coolies after two hours of burden-bearing at a dog trot shovel themselves full of hot rice with scarcely any mastication, and hurry on for another two hours. A white man would have writhed with indigestion. The Chinese seem able to sleep in any position. I have seen them sleeping on piles of bricks, or stones, or poles, with a block or a brick for a pillow, and with the hot sun shining full into the face. They stand a cramped position longer than we can and can keep on longer at monotonous toil unrelieved by change or break. But there is another side to the comparison. There is little pneumonia among the Chinese but they stand it no better than we do ; some say not so well. There is much malarial fever and it goes hard with them. In Hong Kong they seem to suc- cumb to the plague more readily than the foreign- ers. Among children there is heavy mortality from measles and scarlet fever. In withstanding tuberculosis they have no advantage over us. While they make wonderful recoveries from high fevers they are not enduring of long fevers. Some think this is because the flame of their vitality has been turned low by unsanitary living. They have a horror of fresh air and shut it out of the 42 THE CHANGING CHINESE sleeping apartment, even on a warm night. In the mission schools, if the teachers insist on open windows in the dormitory, the pupils stifle under the covers lest the evil spirits flying about at night should get at them. The Chinese grant that hygiene may be all very well for these weakly foreigners, but see no use in it for themselves. It is no wonder, therefore, that their schoolgirls cannot stand the pace of American schoolgirls. Often they break down, or go into a decline, or have to take a long rest. In the English mission schools with their easier pace the girls get on better. Here and there a doctor ascribes the extraordi- nary power of resistance and recuperation shown by his patients entirely to their diet and manner of life and denies any superior vitality in the race. Other doctors practicing among the city Chinese insist that the stamina of the masses is under- mined by wretched living conditions, but that under equal circumstances the yellow man has a firmer hold on life than the white man. From the testimony it is safe to conclude that at least a part of the observed toughness of the Chinese is attributable to a special race vitality which they have acquired in the course of a longer and severer elimination of the less fit than our North-European ancestors ever experienced in their civilized state. Such selection has tended to foster not so much bodily strength or energy as recuperative power, resistance to infection and The river stairs up which all the water for Chungking is borne THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 45 tolerance of unwholesome conditions of living. For many centuries the people of South and Cen- tral China, crowded together in their villages or walled cities, have used water from contaminated canals or from the drainings of the rice fields; eaten of the scavenging pig or of vegetables stim- ulated by the contents of the cesspool; huddled under low roofs on dirt floors in filthy lanes, and slept in fetid dens and stifling cubicles. Myriads succumbed to the poisons generated by overcrowd- ing, and hardly a quarter of those born lived to transmit their immunity to their children. The surviving fittest has been the type able to with- stand foul air, stench, fatigue toxin, dampness, bad food, and noxious germs. I have no doubt that if an American population of equal size lived in Amoy or Soochow as the Chinese there live, a quarter would be dead by the end of the first sum- mer. But the toughening takes place to the detri- ment of bodily growth and strength. Chinese children are small for their age. At birth the infants are no stronger than ours. The weaker are more thoroughly weeded out, but even the surviving remnant is for a time weakened by the hardships that have killed the rest. I would not identify the great vitality of the Chinese with the primitive vitality you find in Bedouins, or Sea Dyaks, or American Indians. This early endowment consists in unusual mus- cular strength and endurance, in normality of bodily functions, and in power to bear hardship and exposure. It does not extend to immunity 46 THE CHANGING CHINESE from disease. Subjected to the conditions the civilized man lives under, savages die off like tlies. Peary's Eskimos could survive a fetid Greenland igloo but not an airy New York board- ing- bouse. The diseases that the colonizing Euro- pean communicates to natural men clears them away more swiftly than his gunpowder. Entrance upon the civilized state entails a universal ex- change of disease germs and the necessary growth of immunity. Now, it is precisely in his power to withstand the poisons with which close-dwellers infect one another that the Chinaman is unique. This power does not seem to be a heritage from his nomad life o( five or six thousand years ago. It is rather the painful acquisition o( a later social phase. It could have grown up only in congested cities, or under an agriculture that contaminates every growing plant, converts every stream into an open sewer, and tills the land with mosquito- breeding rice fields. Such toleration of pathogenic microbes has, perhaps, never before been devel- oped and it certainly will never be developed again. Now that man knows how to clear away from his path these invisible enemies, he will never consent to buy immunity at the old cruel price. To the AVest the toughness of the Chinese physique may have a sinister military significance. Nobody fears lest in a stand-up fight Chinese troops could whip an equal number of well-condi- tioned white troops. But few battles are fought by men fresh from tent and mess. In the course of a prolonged campaign involving irregular pro- THE RACE FIBER OF THE CHINESE 47 visioning, bad drinking water, lying out, loss of sleep, exhausting marches, exposure, excitement and anxiety, it may be that the white soldiers would be worn down worse than the yellow sol- diers. In that case the hardier men with less of the martial spirit might in the closing grapple beat the better fighters with the less en- durance. In view of what has been shown, the competi- tion of white laborer and yellow is not so simple a test of human worth as some may imagine. Under good conditions the white man can best the yellow man in turning off work. But under bad conditions the yellow man can best the white man because he can better endure spoiled food, poor clothing, foul air, noise, heat, dirt, discom- fort and microbes. Reilly can outdo Ah San, but Ah San can underlive Reilly. Ah San cannot take away Reilly 's job as being a better work- man; but, because he can live and do some work at a wage on which Reilly cannot keep himself fit to work at all, three or four Ah Sans can take Reilly 's job from him. And they will do it, too, unless they are barred out of the market where Reilly is selling his labor. Reilly 's endeavor to exclude Ah San from his labor market is not the case of a man dreading to pit himself on equal terms against a better man. Indeed, it is not quite so simple and selfish and narrow-minded as all that. It is a case of a man fitted to get the most out of good conditions refusing to yield his place 48 THE CHANGING CHINESE to a iveaker man able to withstand bad condi- tions. * Of course, with the coming in of Western sani- tation, the terrible selective process by which Chinese toughness has been built up will come to an end, and this property will gradually fade out of the race physique. But for our time at least it is a serious and pregnant fact. It will take some generations of exposure to the relaxing effects of drains, ventilation, doctors, district nurses, food inspectors, pure water, open spaces and out-of-door sports to eradicate the peculiar vitality which the yellow race has acquired. Dur- ing the interim the chief effect of freely admitting coolies to the labor markets of the West would be the substitution of low wages, bad living con- ditions and the increase of the yellow race for high wages, good living conditions and the in- crease of the white race. Scene in the Imperial City, Peking- Hovel on beach at Kiukiang. Over the door the character for "happiness" CHAPTER III THE BACE MIND OP THE CHINESE THE more cheaply gotten-up races of men have a short mental circuit and respond promptly to stimulus. Knowing the impulses aroused in them by their experiences you can foretell their actions. They cannot inhibit their impulses and let them accumulate until reflection has fused them into a conscious purpose. But the races of the higher destiny are not so easily set in motion. They are able to hold back and digest their im- pulses. The key to their conduct is to be found, not in their impressions, but in their thoughts and convictions. Their course is to be interpreted not by their impulses but by their purposes. Their intellect is a massive fly-wheel by means of which continuous will power is derived from confused and intermittent stimuli. The man of this type does not act till he has made up his mind and he does not make up his mind till he has heard both sides. His emotion is not as the crackling of dry thorns under a pot, but like the lasting glow that will smelt iron. He obeys not his promptings, but his decisions. His conduct is not fitful and zigzag, but even and consistent. More and more this steady and reliable type is demanded in a social organization so complex that normal action must 3 51 52 THE CHANGING CHINESE be deliberate and in a civilization so scientific that pondered knowledge is essential to wise decis- ion. We like to think of the Anglo-Saxons as of this stable type and feel that snch an endowment makes up to our race for its lack of the quick mobile feel- ing, the social tact and the sensitiveness to beauty so characteristic of South Europeans. Now, of this massive unswerving type are the Chinese. Fiery or headlong action is the last thing to be expected of yellow men. They command their feelings and know how to bide their time. They are not hot to-day, cold to-morrow. Hard are they to move, but once in motion they have momentum. Slow are they to promise, but once they have promised for a consideration they "stick." They are stubborn to convert but they make staunch converts. Their eloquence is more akin to the eloquence of Pitt or Bright than to that of O'Con- nell or Gambetta. One does not term suicide a "rash act" in a land where so many suicides are carried out of set purpose. Instead of assassi- nating the high-placed betrayer of his country, the Chinese patriot sends his Emperor a plain- spoken memorial about the traitor and then kills himself to show he is in earnest. No matter what their intensity of feeling, the members of the pro- vincial assemblies that met for the first time two years ago kept themselves in hand and surprised the world by their self-restraint and decorum. Some observations made by a gentleman writing life insurance in Hawaii throw a strong light on THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 53 Chinese traits. He found the Japanese impres- sible and easy to persuade, especially if he learns that other Japanese are taking out poli- cies. Tell him his friend So-and-So has insured and he promptly orders a bigger policy. But when a month later the policy arrives from the New York office his interest has cooled and he will never take it unless he was required to make an advance payment. On the other hand, the Chinaman can be neither cajoled nor stampeded. He takes a sample policy home, studies it over night, and is ready next day with his answer. If it is "Yes," he invariably refuses to make an ad- vance payment on the ground that, as yet, he has received nothing of value. When the policy arrives he receipts for it, takes it home, and com- pares it line by line with the sample policy. The next day he is always ready with the premium. I introduce this comparison not to discredit the Japanese, for their gifts are well known, but to bring out the deliberate unimpressible character of the Chinese. Chinese conservatism, unlike the conservatism of the lower races, is not merely an emotional atti- tude. It is not inspired chiefly by dread of the unknown, horror of the new, or a fanatical attach- ment to a system of ideas which gives them confi- dence in the established. It is the logical outcome of precedent. Change the ideas of the Chinese and their policy will , change. Let their minds be possessed by a philosophy that makes them doubt the past and have confidence in the future, 54 THE CHANGING CHINESE and they will prove to be as consistently pro- gressive as are the Germans of to-day. The Nestor of the missionaries, Doctor Martin of Peking, after his sixty years of labor in the Orient, believes that the modern Chinese have somehow lost the originality and inventiveness their forefathers possessed in the great days of old when the civilization of the Middle Kingdom was still in the gristle. He surmises that this precious endowment was wasted by the continued use of the memory-taxing ideographic language or by a cram system of education shaped with refer- ence to passing competitive examinations. To those of us who question the atrophy of a race quality through disuse, and doubt if any amount of sterilizing education can quench the originality of a race beyond the generation submitted to it, it seems more likely that the contemporary Chinese intellect is sterile because of the state of the social mind. It is true that the culture development of the Chinese ceased at stages no more difficult to nego- tiate than the earlier stages. In painting they never mastered perspective. In music they never achieved harmony. Their language is lacking in relative pronouns and other words indicating the relation of statements to one another. Their writing is arrested at the level of ancient Baby- lonia and Egypt. For many centuries, however, their psychological climate has been unfavorable to innovating thought. As well expect the apple tree to blossom in October as expect genius to & -5 X o cc O §•§« •s Q o > O OS Bfe- - o CO eg © ^4- m CD CD -2 O O B o i> o A< o fl CD '■g -5 CD t3 C" 1 Ph THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 57 bloom among a people convinced that the perfec- tion of wisdom had been granted to the sages of antiquity. Before he has fairly begun to bring forth, the fresh thinker has been discouraged and intimidated by the leaden weight of conservative opinion about him. In a word, the social atmos- phere has become oppressive, lacking the stimu- lating oxygen it had in the distant days when the Chinese invented gunpowder, block printing, bank- notes, porcelain, the compass, the compartment boat and the taxicab. The patent stagnation of the collective mind is due not to native sluggishness but to prepossession by certain beliefs. These beliefs are tenaciously held because in their practical outworkings they have been successful. Under them vast popula- tions have been able to attain order, security and a goodly measure of happiness. Moreover, as these beliefs have expanded their circle of influ- ence, they have never — until lately — encountered any system of ideas that could withstand them. Chinese culture has spread and spread until all Eastern Asia bows to it. Nestorian Christianity flourished there and vanished. The Jews of Kaifeng-fu lost their language and religion and became Chinese in all but physiognomy. The conquering Manchus have forgotten their language and literature. "China," it has been finely said, "is a sea which salts everything that flows into it." The guardians of a culture so vanquishing may well be pardoned for regarding as presump- tuous any endeavor to improve on it. 58 THE CHANGING CHINESE For centuries the Chinese have found themselves in the situation our descendants will perhaps find themselves in when, half a thousand years hence, they are enfolded in the colossal body of a single self -consistent planetary culture; when scientific research shall have long been subject to the law of diminishing returns; when nothing but a thin rill of trifling discoveries will trickle from the splendid laboratories; when the proceedings of scientific congresses will be as trivial as the dis- cussions of the Church Councils of the seventh cen- tury; when the elite of the human race will have forgotten the thrill from such fructifying new truths as our generation has enjoyed in the dis- covery of radioactivity, the germ origin of disease, natural selection, mutation, and mental suggesti- bility. Then, perhaps, without any abatement of its powers, the intellect of our race may develop such unshakable faith in the soundness and suffi- ciency of its system of scientific knowledge and thought, that nothing but intercourse with the Martians will be able to release it from the numb- ing grasp of the established and arouse it to fresh conquests. It is rash, therefore, to take the observed ster- ility of the Celestial mind during the period of intercourse with the West as proof of race defi- ciency. Chinese culture is undergoing a break- ing-up process which will release powerful indi- vidualities from the spell of the past and of numbers, and stimulate them to high personal achievement. In the Malay States, where the Altar, Temple of Heaven, Peking- View in the Temple grounds of the Ming Tombs. Mountains near Peking THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 61 Chinese escape the lifeless atmosphere and the confining social organization of their own land, their ingenuity is already such that unprejudiced white men have come to regard them as our intel- lectual peers. Civil engineers will tell you that in a score or two of years, after bright Chinese youth have had access to schools of technology equal to those of the West, there will be no place in the engineering and technical work of the Far East for the high-priced white expert. In Shanghai, too, the clever Chinese are learning to play the game. I am told they are rapidly getting into their hands, banking, coast-wise navigation, the cotton trade and other branches by which the for- eigners there make their money; indeed, some deem it only a matter of time when white men will be unable to make a living by trade on the Chinese coast, having been frozen out there as they are being frozen out in Japan. To forty-three men who, as educators, mission- aries and diplomats, have had good opportunity to learn the "feel" of the Chinese mind, I put the question, ' ' Do you find the intellectual capacity of the yellow race equal to that of the white race?" All but five answered "Yes," and one sinologue of varied experience as missionary, university president and legation adviser left me gasping with the statement, "Most of us who have spent twenty-five years or more out here come to feel that the yellow race is the normal human type, while the white race is a 'sport.' " The trend of opinion is that when the Chinese have become 62 THE CHANGING CHINESE equipped with the Western arts and sciences they will match us in intellectual performance, although some think that the gap in ability between the masses and the higher classes is much wider than it is in the West. It is significant that superior white men of long residence in the Middle Kingdom often become too Chinese in point of view to be of much service to their governments. Sir Robert Hart was com- plained of as virtually a Chinaman. Many of the consular veterans in the China service are said to champion the Chinese way of looking at things as against the Western. It seems that, little by little, the civilization of the East invades, disarms and takes possession of them. In the finer Chinese they discover an outlook more compre- hensive than their own, a broader tolerance, and a philosophic patience that makes mock of the eager, impetuous West. The heart of the case seems to be this : Since the discovery of America the West-Euro- pean whites have overrun the West Indies, the Americas, Australia, Africa, the islands of the Sea and Southern Asia, while their East-European brethren have occupied Northwestern and North- ern Asia. During this expansion the whites have encountered hundreds of races and peoples before unknown to them; but in all this time they have never met a race that could successfully dispute their military superiority, contribute to their civilization, or dispense with their direction in political or industrial organization. Now, after THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 63 three centuries of such experience, during which the white man has grown accustomed to regarding himself as the undisputed sovereign of the planet, he makes the acquaintance of peoples in Eastern Asia who are, perhaps, as capable as the whites and who threaten to spread into areas he had staked off for himself. In any case it begins to appear that the future bearers and advancers of civilization will be, not the whites alone, but the white and the yellow races ; and the control of the globe will lie in the hands of two races instead of one. Practically all foreigners in China who are cap- able of sympathy with another race become warm friends of the Chinese. They are not attracted, as in the case of the Japanese, by charm of man- ner or delicacy of sentiment or beauty of art, but by the solid human qualities of the folk. The fact is, the Chinese are extremely likable and those who have known them longest like them best. Al- most invariably those who harshly disparage them are people who are coarse or narrow or bigoted. They are not a sour or sullen folk. Smile at them and back comes a look that puts you on a footing of mutual understanding. Their lively sense of humor is a bond that unites them to the foreigner. One lone traveler at a critical moment in a Chinese street seized the ringleader of the mob and tied him by his queue to a door-post. The crowd howled with laughter, while the traveler slipped away. Another foreigner of unusual 64 THE CHANGING CHINESE stature found he could always get on good terms with a crowd by flinging out his arm over the head of the nearest native. The bystanders grinned at the contrast and their good nature asserted itself. Horrible deeds have been wrought by Chinese mobs, but not one whit worse than the atrocities committed by mobs of our ancestors in the Middle Ages. In view of their ignorance and supersti- tion, indeed, the Chinese masses are on a level with our forefathers in the days of witchcraft, Jew- baiting, the dancing-mania, and the flagellants. In view of their limited schooling, one marvels at the diffusion among them of a politeness without a taint of servility. For all their illiteracy, the common people keenly appreciate good form ; and the traveler who approaches them with the man- ners they understand finds few too ignorant or too uncouth to meet him half way. Nothing is more creditable to the domestic organization of the Chinese than the attractive old people it produces. The old women, it is true, are not so frequently a success as the old men. The years of pain from their bound feet and the crosses they have had to bear as women too often sour the temper, and kindly-faced grannies seem by no means so common as with us. The natural result of steadily giving one sex the worst of it is a distressing crop of village shrews. On the other hand, I have never seen old faces more dignified, serene and benevolent than I have met with among elderly Chinese farmers. Often it seems as if the soul behind the countenance, purged THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 65 of every selfish thought, had come to dwell wholly in the welfare of others. The rights of the parent are such that every man with grandsons is prac- tically endowed with an old age pension. Hence you notice more smooth brows, calm eyes and care- free faces among old Chinese farmers than among old American farmers. In general I hold Western individualism supe- rior, for both individual and social advancement, to Chinese f amilism. I rejoice that with us a man is free to decide, to act, to rise without being ham- pered by a host of relatives. I am glad that he is legally responsible only for his own misdeeds, never for the misdeeds of his kinsman. Still, I believe we have gone too far in emancipating grown children from obligations to their parents. Too often among us old age is clouded up by the depressing sense of being shelved and being a burden. Chinese ethics gives the parent more rights and lays upon the sons more duties. Com- ing on the up-curve of life the duties are easy to bear, while, coming on the down-curve of life, the corresponding rights are a real solace. In a word, the added happiness to the old folks far outweighs the inconvenience to the sons. It is not easy to sweeten and brighten old age, and the success of the Chinese ought to inspire in us a doubt about our practical family ethics. The high capacity of the sons of Han is no guarantee that they are destined to play a bril- liant role in the near future. Misunderstanding 66 THE CHANGING CHINESE the true causes of our. success their naive intel- lectuals who have traveled or studied abroad often imagine that a wholesale adoption of Western methods and institutions would, almost at once, lift their countrymen to the plane of wealth, power and popular intelligence occupied by the leading peoples of the "West. Now, the fact is that if by the waving of a wand all Chinese could be turned into eager progressives willing to borrow every good thing, it would still be long before the indi- vidual Chinaman attained the efficiency, comfort and social and political value of the West-Euro- pean or American. For there is no doubt that the foundations of our advancement are more economic than we think, and that we attribute to our institutions much prosperity that is really due to the fewness of our people in relation to the economic opportunities. Conversely, much of the backwardness and misery in China that we charge to the shortcomings of its civilization and insti- tutions is due simply to too many people trying to live from a given area. If this is so, it is idle to expect Chinese society to take on the general appearance of Western society until there has occurred a far-reaching readjustment between population and opportuni- ties. On the one hand, the Chinese will have to build railroads, open mines, sink petroleum wells, harness water-power, erect mills, adopt machin- ery, reforest their mountains, construct irrigation works, introduce better breeds of domestic animals and plants, and apply science to the production of X THE EACE MIND OF THE CHINESE 69 food. All this economic leveling up to onr plane, however, would not in the least improve the qual- ity of Chinese life, if the increase of population promptly took up all the slack, as it certainly would do under the present social regime. At the end of the process there would be nothing to show for it all but twice as many Chinese, no better, no wiser, no happier than before. It is equally neces- sary, therefore, for the Chinese to slacken their multiplication by dropping ancestor worship, dis- solving the clan, educating girls, elevating woman, postponing marriage, introducing compulsory edu- cation, restricting child-labor and otherwise indi- vidualizing the members of the family. All this will take time ; and even if the Chinese should be so fortunate as to experience a smooth continuous social development, unbroken by reaction, foreign domination, or civil convulsion, it will be at best a couple of lifetimes before the plane of existence of their common people will at all approximate that of the common people in America. CHAPTER IV THE STBUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE IN CHINA IN China to-day one may observe a state of so- ciety the like of which has not been seen in the West since the Middle Ages, and which will prob- ably never recur on this planet. For many genera- tions the Chinese, loath to abandon to the careless plow of the stranger the graves that dot the ances- tral fields and reluctant to exile themselves from the lighted circle of civilization into the twilight of barbarism, have stayed at home multiplying until reproduction and destruction have struck a balance and society has entered upon the stationary stage. To Americans, who have had the good fortune to develop their life and standards in the cheerful presence of unlimited free land, the life and stand- ards of a people that for centuries have been crowding upon the subsistence possibilities of their environment cannot but seem strange and eccentric. The most arresting feature of Chinese life is the ruthless way in which the available natural resources have been made to minister to man's lower needs. It is true that childish superstitions have held back the Chinese from freely exploiting their mineral treasures. It is also true that from five to ten per cent., in some cases even twenty ' ' 70 THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 71 per cent,, of the farms is given up to the grave- mounds of ancestors. But, aside from these cases, the earth is utilized as perhaps it never has been elsewhere. Little land lies waste in high- ways. Throughout the rice zone the roads are mere footpaths, one to three feet wide, yet the greedy farmers nibble away at the roads on both sides until the undermined paving-stones tilt and sink dismally into the paddy-fields. Pasture or meadow there is none, for land is too precious to be used in growing food for animals. Even on the boulder-strewn steeps there is no grazing save for goats ; for where a cow can crop herbage a man can grow a hill of corn. The cows and the water- buffaloes never taste grass except when they are taken out on a tether by an old granny and allowed to browse by the roadside and the ditches, or along the terraces of the rice fields. The traveler who in dismay at stories of the dirt, vermin and stenches of native inns plans to camp in the cleanly open is incredulous when he is told that there is no room to pitch a tent. Yet such is the case in two-thirds of China. He will find no roadside, no commons, no waste land, no pasture, no groves nor orchards, not even a door- yard or a cow-pen. Save the threshing-floor every outdoor spot fit to spread a blanket on is growing something. But, if he will pay, he may pitch his tent in a submerged rice-field, in the midst of a bean-patch, or among the hills of sweet potatoes ! In one sense it is true that China is cultivated "like a garden," for every lump is broken up, 72 THE CHANGING CHINESE every weed is destroyed, and every plant is tended like a baby. As one crop approaches maturity another is made ready, the new crop often being planted between the rows of the crop that is not yet gathered. So far, however, as the word "garden" calls up visions of beauty and delight, it does not apply. In county after county you will not see altogether a rood of land reserved for recreation or pleasure. No village green, no lawns, no flower-beds nor ornamental shrubbery, no parks, and very few shade trees. Aside from the groves about the temples, the trees that relieve the landscape are grown for use and not for orna- ment. To be sure, there are men of fortune in inner China, but they are relatively very few. I doubt, indeed, if one family in two thousand boasts a garden with its fern-crowned rockery and its lotus pond overhung by drooping willows and feathery bamboos. One is struck, too, with the rarity of grape-arbors, vineyards, orchards, and orange groves. In the country markets one sees mountains of vegetables, but only a few paltry baskets of flavorless fruit. The demand for lux- uries that appeal to the palate is too slight, the call for sustaining food is too imperious, to with- draw much land from its main business, which is to grow rice and beans and wheat and garlic to keep the people alive. To win new plots for tillage human sweat has been poured out like water. Clear to the top the foothills have been carved into terraced fields. On a single slope I counted forty-seven such fields THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 73 running up like the steps of a Brobdingnagian staircase. And the river-bed five hundred feet below, between the thin streams that wander over it until the autumn rains cover it with a turbid flood, has been smoothed and diked into hundreds of gemlike paddy-fields green with the young- rice. In the mountains, where the mantle of brown soil covering the rocks is too thin to be sculptured into level fields, the patches of wheat and corn follow the natural slope and the hoe must be used instead of the plow. Two such plots have I seen at a measured angle of forty-five degrees, and any number tilted at least forty degrees from the horizontal. From their huts near the wooded top of the range half a mile above you men clam- ber down and cultivate Lilliputian patches of earth lodged in pockets among the black naked rocks. Of course the wash from these deforested and tilled mountain flanks is appalling. A thousand feet below, the Heilung, the Han, or the Kialing, slate-hued or tawny when it should be emerald, prophesies of the time when all this exposed soil will be useless bars in the river, and the mountain will lie stripped of the fertile elements slowly ac- cumulated through geologic time. Indeed one hears with a shudder of districts where the thing has run its course to the bitter end. Mountains dry gray skeletons ; the rich valley bottoms buried under silt and gravel ; the population dwindled to one family in four square miles ! Nowhere can the watcher of man's struggle with his environment find a more wonderful 4 74 THE CHANGING CHINESE spectacle than meets the eye from a certain seven- thousand-foot pass amid the great tangle of mountains in West China that gives birth to the Han, the Wei, and the rivers that make famed Szechuan the "Four-river province." Save where steepness or rock-outcropping forbids, the slopes are cultivated from the floor of the Tung Ho Valley right up to the summits five thousand feet above. In this vertical mile there are dif- ferent crops for different altitudes — vegetables below, then corn, lastly wheat. Sometimes the very apex of the mountain wears a green peaked cap of rye. The aerial farms are crumpled into the great folds of the mountains and their borders follow with a poetic grace the outthrust or in- curve of the slopes. In this colossal amphi- theater one beholds a thousand fields but only two houses. Here and there, however, one de- tects in a distant yellow bank a row of dark, arched openings like gopher holes. It is a rural village, for most of these highlanders carve their habitations out of the dry tenacious loess. The heart-breaking labor of redeeming and tilling these upper slopes that require a climb of some thousands of feet from one's cave home is a sure sign of population pressure. It calls up the picture of a swelling human lake, somehow without egress from the valley, rising and rising until it fairly lifts cultivation over the summits of the mountains. In June these circling tiers of verdant undulating sky-farms are an impressive, even a beautiful sight ; yet one cannot help think- Cave dwelling of a coal miner Perfected tillage of the valley of an affluent of the Wei River THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 77 ing of the grim, ever-present menace of hunger which alone could have forced people to such prodigies of toil. Eice will thrive only under a thin sheet of water. A rice field must, therefore, be level and enclosed by a low dyke. Where the climate is friendly the amount of labor that will be spent in digging a slope into rice-fields and carrying a stream to them is beyond belief. In one case I noticed how a deep-notched rocky ravine in the flank of a rugged mountain had been completely transformed. The peasants had brought down countless basketfuls of soil from certain pockets at the foot of the cliffs. With this they had filled the bottom of the V, floated it into a series of levels, banked them, set them out with rice and led the water over them. So that now instead of a barren gulch there is a staircase of curving fields, perhaps four rods wide and differing in level by the height of a man. I have also seen the sides of a gully in which a child could not stand undiscovered cut into shelves for making a string of rice plots no larger than a table-cloth, irrigated by a trickle no bigger than a baby's finger. One of these toy plots, duly banked and set out with nineteen rice plants at the regulation eight inches, could be covered by a dinner napkin ! Were it not for an agriculture of infinite pains- taking, the fertility of the soil would have been spent ages ago. In a low-lying region like Kiangsu, for example, the farmer digs an oblong settling basin into which every part of his farm 78 THE CHANGING CHINESE drains. In the spring from its bottom lie scoops for fertilizer the rich muck washed from his fields. It is true the overflow from this pond carries away some precious elements, but these he recovers by- dredging the private canal that connects him with the main artery of the district. In the loess belt of North China the farmer simply digs a pit in the midst of his field and scatters the yellow earth from it as a manure. A Chinese city has no sewers nor does it greatly need them. Long be- fore sunrise tank-boats from the farms have crept through the city by a network of canals, and by the time the foreigner has finished his morning coffee a legion of scavengers has collected for the encouragement of the crops that which we cast into our sewers. After a rain countrymen with buckets prowl about the streets scooping black mud out of hollows and gutters or dipping liquid filth from the wayside sinks. A highway trav- ersed by two hundred carts a day is as free from filth as a garden path, for the neighboring farmers patrol it constantly with basket and rake. No natural resource is too trifling to be turned to account by a teeming population. The sea is raked and strained for edible plunder. Sea- weed and kelp have a place in the larder. Great quantities of shell-fish no bigger than one's finger- nail are opened and made to yield a food that finds its way far inland. The fungus that springs up in the grass after a rain is eaten. Fried sweet potato vines furnish the poor man's table. The roadside ditches are bailed out for the sake of THE STEUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE 79 fishes no longer than one's finger. Great pan- niers of strawberries, half of them still green, are collected in the mountain ravines and offered in the markets. No weed nor stalk escapes the bamboo rake of the autumnal fuel gatherer. The sickle reaps the grain close to the ground, for straw and chaff are needed to burn un- der the rice kettle. The leaves of the trees are a crop to be carefully gathered by the chil- dren. One never sees a rotting stump or a molder- ing log. Bundles of brush carried miles on the hu- man back heat the brick kiln and the potter's furnace. After the last trees have been taken, the far and forbidding heights are scaled by lads with ax and mattock to cut down or dig up the seedlings that would, if left alone, reclothe the devastated ridges. We asked a Szechuanese if he did not admire a certain craggy peak with gnarled pines clinging to it. "No," he replied, "how can it be beautiful when it is so steep that we cannot get at the trees to cut them down?" Such facts helped me understand why a match from the native factories at Taiyuanfu and Sianfu has in it perhaps a third as much wood as one of our matches. The cuisine of China is one of the toothsome cuisines of the world ; but for the common people the stomach and not the palate decides what shall be food. The silkworms are eaten after the cocoon has been unwound from them. After their work is done horses, donkeys, mules, and camels become butcher's meat. The cow or pig 80 THE CHANGING CHINESE that has died a natural death is not disdained. A missionary who had always let his cook dispose of a dead calf noticed that his calves always died. Finally he saturated the carcass of the calf with carbolic acid and made the cook bury it. There- after his calves lived. In Canton rats and cats are exposed for sale. Our boatmen cleaned and ate the head, feet, and entrails of the fowls used by our cook. Scenting a possible opening for a tannery, the Governor of Hong Kong once set on foot an inquiry as to what becomes of the skins of the innumerable pigs slaughtered in the colony. He learned that they are all made up as "marine delicacy" and sold among the Chinese. Another time he was on the point of ordering the extermi^ nation of the mangy curs that infest the villages in the Kowloon district because they harassed the Sikh policemen in the performance of their duties. He found just in time that such an act would "interfere with the food of the people," something a British colonial governor must never do. Though the farmer thriftily combs his harvest field, every foot of the short stubble is gone over again by poor women and children, who are con- tent if in a day's gleaning they can gather a handful of wheat heads to keep them alive the morrow. On the Hong Kong water front the path of the coolies carrying produce between ware- house and junk is lined with tattered women, most of them with a baby on the back. Where bags of beans or rice are in transit a dozen wait Junk on the Yangtse Fishing with cormorants THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 83 with basket and brush to sweep up the grains dropped from the sacks. On a wharf where crude sugar is being repacked squat sixty women scrap- ing the inside of the discarded sacks, while others run by the bearer, if his sack leaks a little, to catch the particles as they fall. Where sugar is being unloaded, a mob of gleaners swarm upon the lighter the moment the last sack leaves and eagerly scrape from the gang-plank and the deck the sugar mixed with dirt that for two hours has been trampled into a muck by the bare feet of two score coolies trotting back and forth across a dusty road ! The pilferings one hears of are hardly less significant than are the gleanings. The Peking- Hankow Railway complains of the nightly theft of ringbolts and plates; no fewer than 60,000 bolts a month and 10,000 plates per annum dis- appear, to be made into razors and scissors, hoes and ploughshares. The cook will extract half its strength from soup meat and then sell it through his window to an itinerant food vender. From the daily drawing of tea given him he will ab- stract a few leaves and hide them. When he has accumulated a pound he will get the dealer to de- liver this pound and give him part of the money his mistress pays for the stolen pound. Even the old hair that hangs in tatters from the camels when they are changing their coat is subject to theft. Haunted by the fear of starving, men spend themselves recklessly for the sake of a wage. It 84 THE CHANGING CHINESE is true that the Chinese are still in the handicraft stage and the artisans one sees busy on their own account in the little workshops along the street go their own gait. The smiths in iron, tin, copper, brass and silver, the carvers of ivory, amber, tortoise-shell, onyx and jade, the workers in wood, rattan, lacquer, wax, and feathers, the weavers of linen, cotton, and silk seem, in spite of their long hours, less breathless and driven, less prodigal in their expenditure of life energy, than many of the operatives in our machine in- dustries who feel the spur of piece wage, team work, and " speeding up." Still, it is obvious that in certain occupations men are literally kill- ing themselves by their exertions. The treadmill- coolies who propel the stern-wheelers on the West River admittedly shorten their lives. Nearly all the lumber used in China is hand-sawed, and the sawyers are exhausted early. The planers of boards, the marble polishers, the brass filers, the cotton Suffers, the treaders who work the big rice-polishing pestles are building their coffins. Physicians agree that carrying coolies rarely live beyond forty-five or fifty years. The term of a chair-bearer is eight years, of a ricksha runner four years; for the rest of his life he is an in- valid. Moreover, carriers and chair-bearers are afflicted with varicose veins and aneurisms be- cause the constant tension of the muscles inter- feres with the return circulation of the blood. A lady physician in Fokien who had examined some scores of carrying coolies told me she found but THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 85 two who were free from the heart trouble caused by burden-bearing. In Canton, city of a million without a wheel or a beast of burden, even the careless eye marks in the porters that throng the streets the plain signs of overstrain: faces pale and haggard, with the drawn and flat look of utter exhaustion ; eyes pain- pinched, or astare and unseeing with supreme ef- fort; jaw sagging and mouth open from weariness. The dog trot, the whistling breath, the clenched teeth, the streaming face of those under a burden of one to two hundredweight that must be borne are as eloquent of ebbing life as a jetting artery. At rest the porter often leans or droops with a corpse-like sag that betrays utter depletion of vital energy. In a few years the face becomes a wrinkled, pain-stiffened mask, the veins of the upper leg stand out like great cords, a frightful net of varicose veins blemishes the calf, lumps appear at the back of the neck or down the spine, and the shoulders are covered with thick pads of callous under a livid skin. Inevitably the chil- dren of the people are drawn into these cogs at the age of ten or twelve, and not one boy in eight can be spared till he has learned to read. There are a number of miscellaneous facts that hint how close the masses live to the edge of sub- sistence. The brass cash, the most popular coin in China, is worth the twentieth of a cent ; but as this has been found too valuable to meet all the needs of the people, oblong bits of bamboo circu- late in some provinces at the value of half a cash. 86 THE CHANGING CHINESE A Western firm that wishes to entice the masses with its wares must make a grade of extra cheap- ness for the China trade. The British-American Tobacco Company puts up a package of twenty cigarettes that sells for two cents. The Stand- ard Oil Company sells by the million a lamp that costs eleven cents and retails, chimney and all, for eight-and-a-half cents. It is a curious fact, by the way, that the oil of its rival, the Asiatic Oil Company, does not burn well in this cunningly devised lamp! Incredibly small are the portions prepared for sale by the huckster. • Two cubic inches of bean curd, four walnuts, five peanuts, fifteen roasted beans, twenty melon seeds — make a portion. The melon vender's stand is decked out with wedges of insipid melon the size of two fingers. The householder leaves the butcher's stall with a morsel of pork, the pluck of a fowl and a strip of fish as big as a sardine, tied together with a blade of grass. In Anhwei the query cor- responding to "How do you make your living?" is "How do you get through the day?" On tak- ing leave of his host it is manners for the guest to thank him expressly for the food he has provided. Careful observers say that four-fifths of the con- versation among the co mm on Chinese relates to food. Comfort is scarce as well as food. The city coolie sleeps on a plank in an airless kennel on a filthy lane with a block for a pillow and a quilt for a cover. When in a South China hospital all the beds were provided with springs and mat- 3 THE STEUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE 89 tresses supplied by a philanthropic American, all the patients were found next morning sleeping on the floor. After being used to boards covered with a mat they could not get their proper slumber on a soft bed. Necessity makes the wits fertile in devising new ways of earning a living. I have heard of persons keeping themselves alive by hiring themselves to incubate hen's eggs by their bodily warmth. In some localities people place about the floors of their sleeping and living rooms flea traps, i. e., tiny joints of bamboo with a bit of aromatic glue at the bottom which attracts and holds fast the vermin. Eecently in Szechuan — where there is a proverb, "The sooner you get a son the sooner you get happiness" — some wight has been enter- prising enough to begin going about from house to house cleaning the dead fleas and dried glue from the traps and recharging them with fresh glue. For this service he charges each house one- twentieth of a cent. The great number hanging on to existence "by the eyelashes" and dropping into the abyss at a gossamer's touch cheapens life. "Yan to meng ping," "Many men, life cheap," reply the West Eiver watermen when reproached for leaving a sick comrade on the foreshore to die. In a thronged six-foot street I beheld a shriveled, hor- ribly twisted leper prone on his back hitching him- self along sideways inch by inch and imploring the by-passers to drop alms into his basket. It contained four cash! In the leper village of 90 THE CHANGING CHINESE Canton the government furnishes two cents a day which will buy two bowls of cooked rice. For their other needs they must beg. Ax and bamboo are retained and prison reform is halted by the consideration that, unless the way of the trans- gressor is made flinty, there are people miserable enough to commit crime for the bare sake of prison fare. Not long ago the Commissioner of Customs at a great South-China port — a foreigner, of course — impressed by the fact that every summer the bubonic plague there carried off about ten thousand Chinese, planned a rigid quarantine against those ports from which the plague was liable to be brought. When he sought the co- operation of the Chinese authorities, the taotai objected on the ground that there were too many Chinese anyway, and that, by thinning them out and making room for the rest, the plague was a blessing in disguise. The project was dropped and last summer again the plague ravaged the city like a fire. But the taotai was not unreason- able. After all, it is better to die quickly by plague than slowly by starvation; and, as things now are, if fewer Chinese perish by disease more would be swept away by famine. In a press so desperate, if a man stumbles he is not likely to get up again. I have heard of several cases where an employe dismissed for incompetence or fault returned starving again and again, because nowhere could he find work. In China you should move slowly in getting rid of an incompetent. Euthless dismissal, such as we THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 91 tolerate, is bitterly resented and leads to extreme unpopularity. Again, no one attempts to stand alone, seeing the lone man is almost sure to go under. The son of Han dares not cut himself off from his family, his clan, or his guild, for they throw him the life-line by which he can pull him- self up if his foot slips. Students in the schools are strong in mass action — strikes, walkouts, etc., — for their action, however silly or perverse, is always unanimous. The sensible lad never thinks of holding out against the folly of his fellows. The whole bidding of his experience has been, "Conform or starve." Likewise no duty is im- pressed like that of standing by your kinsmen. The official, the arsenal superintendent, or the business manager of a college, when he divides the jobs within his gift among his poor relations, is obeying the most imperative ethics he knows. It is an axiom with the Chinese that anything is better than a fight. They urge compromise even upon the wronged man and blame him who con- tends stubbornly for all his rights. This dread of having trouble is reasonable under their cir- cumstances. "When a boat is so crowded that the gunwale is scarce a hand's breadth above the water, a scuffle must be avoided at all costs, and each is expected to put up with a great deal be- fore breaking the peace. In their outlook on life most Chinese are rank materialists. They ply the stranger with ques- tions as to his income, his means, the cost of his belongings. They cannily offer paper money in- 92 THE CHANGING CHINESE stead of real money at the graves of their dead, and sacrifice paper images of the valuables that once were burned in the funeral pyre. They pray only for material benefits, never for spiritual bless- ings; and they compare shrewdly the luck-bring- ing powers of different josses and altars. Some sorry little backwoods shrine will get a reputation for answering prayer and presently there will be half a cord of gratitude tablets heaped about it, testimonials to its success. If a drouth continues after fervent prayers for rain, the resentful peo- ple smash the idol! Yet no one who comes into close touch with the Chinese deems this utilitarian- ism a race trait. They are capable of the highest idealism. Among the few who have come near to the thought of Buddha or Jesus one finds faces saintlike in their glow of spirituality. The materialism is imposed by hard economic con- ditions. It is the product of an age-long anxiety about to-morrow's rice and not to be counter- acted by the influence of the petty proportion whose circumstances lift them above sordid anx- ieties. Contrary to the theory of certain sociologists this intensified struggle for life has no perceptible effect in promoting economic or social improve- ment. It is a static rather than a dynamic in- fluence. It makes for exertion and strain but not for progress because the prime means of progress are inventions and discoveries, and it is just these that bond-slaves to poverty, under the stress of the struggle to keep alive, are not able to bring forth. One of the three life-boats that escorted us through the gorges An ancient mariner THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 95 Most of the stock explanations of national poverty throw no light on the condition of the Chinese. They are not impoverished by the niggardliness of the soil, for China is one of the most bountiful seats occupied by man. Their state is not the just recompense of sloth, for no people is better broken to heavy, unremitting toil. The trouble is not lack of intelligence in their work, for they are skilful farmers and clever in the arts and crafts. Nor have they been dragged down into their pit of wolfish competition by waste- ful vices. Opium-smoking and gambling do, in- deed, ruin many a home, but it is certain that, even for untainted families and communities, the plane of living is far lower than in the West. They are not victims of the rapacity of their rulers, for if their government does little for them, it exacts little. In good times its fiscal claims are far from crushing. With four times our numbers the national budget is a fifth of ours. The basic conditions of prosperity — liberty of person and security of property — are well established. There is, to be sure, no security for industrial invest- ments ; but property in land and in goods is reason- ably well protected. Nor is the lot of the masses due to exploitation. In the cities there is a sprin- kling of rich, but out in the province one may travel for weeks and see no sign of a wealthy class — no mansion or fine country place, no costume or equipage befitting the rich. There are great stretches of fertile agricultural country where the struggle for subsistence is stern and yet the culti- 96 THE CHANGING CHINESE vator owns Ms land and implements and pays tribute to no man. For a grinding mass poverty that cannot be matched in the Occident there remains but one general cause, namely, the crowding of population upon the means of subsistence. Why this people should so behave more than other peoples, why this gifted race should so recklessly multiply as to condemn itself to a sordid struggle for a bare existence can be understood only when one un- derstands the constitution of the Chinese family. It is believed that unless twice a year certain rites are performed and paper money is burned at a man's grave by a male descendant, his spirit and the spirits of his fathers will wander forlorn in the spirit world "begging rice" of other spirits. Hence Mencius taught "there are three things which are unfilial ; and to have no posterity is the greatest of them." It is a man's first concern, therefore, to assure the succession in the male line. He not only wants a number of sons, but — since life is not long in China and the making of a suitable match for a son is the parent's prerogative — he wants to see his son settled as soon as possible. Before his son is twenty-one he provides him with a wife as a matter of course, and the young couple live with him till the son can fend for himself. There is none of our feeling that a young man should not marry till he can support a family. This wholesome pecuniary check on reproduction seems wholly wantiug. The son's marriage is the parents ' affair, not his ; for they pick the girl THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 97 and provide the home. In the colleges one out of twenty or ten, but sometimes even one out of five of the students is married, and not infrequently there are fathers among the members of the gradu- ating class. As the bride must be younger than the groom, early marriage for sons makes early marriage for daughters. The average age of Chinese girls at marriage appears to be sixteen or seventeen years, although some put it at fifteen. In the cities reached by foreign influence, the age has advanced. In Peking it is said to be eighteen, in Shanghai twenty, in Wuchow twenty, in Swatow sixteen to eighteen, in Chungking seventeen or eighteen where formerly it was fourteen or fifteen. Schooling, too, postpones marriage to about twenty, but not one girl in two thousand is in a grammar school. About two years ago the Board of Education at Peking ruled that students in the government schools should not marry under twenty in the case of girls and twenty-two in the case of boys. At twenty practically all girls, save prostitutes, are wives and five-sixths of the young men are husbands. This means that in the Orient the generations come at least a third closer together than they do in the Occident. Even if their average family were no larger than ours, they can outbreed us, for they get in four generations while we are rearing three. But their families are larger because their production of children is not affected by certain considerations which weigh 98 THE CHANGING CHINESE with us. Clan ties are so strong that if a poor man cannot feed his children he can get fellow clansmen to adopt some of them. Thanks to an- cestor worship and to reliance on sons for support in old age, there is a great deal more adopting than we can imagine. In fact, the demand for boys to be adopted by couples who have no son has been eager enough to call into being a brisk kid- napping trade that is giving trouble to the Shanghai authorities. Then there are funds left by bygone clansmen for the relief of necessitous members. These stimulate procreative reckless- ness precisely as did the parish relief guaranteed under the old Poor Law of England. The burden of the child on the parent is lighter than with us, while the benefit expected from the male child is much greater. Lacking our op- portunities for saving and investment, the Chinese rely upon the earnings of their sons to keep them in their old age. A man looks upon his sons as his old age pension. A girl baby may be drowned or sold, a boy never. In a society so patriarchal that a teacher forty years old With a family still turns over his monthly salary to his father as a matter of common duty, the parents of one son are pitied while the parents of many sons are congratulated. Moreover, the very atmosphere of China is charged with appreciation of progeny. From time immemorial the things considered most worth while have been posterity, learning and riches — in the order named. This judgment of Braving the Yangtse flood. Cliff swallows' nests at Chungking THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 101 a remote epoch when there was room for all sur- vives into a time when the land groans under its burden of population. So a man is still envied for the number of descendants in the male line who will walk in his funeral train. Grandchil- dren, and, still more, great-grandchildren, are counted the especial blessing of heaven. Hence a veritable passion to have offspring — more offspring — as many as possible. In Kuang- tung I am told that the women are so eager for many children that they place their suckling with a wet nurse so as to shorten the interval between conceptions. In the West there are plenty of par- ents willing to unload their superfluous children upon an institution, whereas a Chinese parent never gives up a male child till he is in sore straits and reclaims it the moment he is able. The boy is a partly-paid-up old age endowment policy that shall not lapse if he can help it. What chil- dren's home with us would dare undertake, as does the Asile de la Sainte Enfance among 320,- 000 Chinese in Hong Kong, to care for all children offered and to give them back at the parents ' con- venience ? With us a rich man may not lawfully beget and rear more children than one wife can bear him. In China, however, the concubine has a legal status, her issue is legitimate and a man may con- tribute to the population his children by as many women as he cares to take to himself. With us one-sixth of the women between thirty and thirty- five are unmarried, while in China not one woman 102 THE CHANGING CHINESE in a thousand remains a spinster, so that nearly all the female reproductive capacity of each gen- eration is utilized in child bearing. Thus all things conspire to encourage the Chinese to multiply freely without paying heed to the economic prospect. Their domestic system is a snare, yet no Malthus has ever startled China out of her deep satisfaction with her domestic sys- tem. She believes that, whatever may be wrong with her, her family is all right; and dreams of teaching the anarchic West filial piety and true propriety in the relations of the sexes. It has never occurred to the thinkers of the yellow race that the rate of multiplication is one of the great factors in determining the plane on which the masses live. Point out this axiom of political economy to a scholar and he meets it with such comforting saws as, "One more bowlful out of a big rice tub makes no difference," "There is always food for a chicken," "The only son will starve" (i.e., will be a ne'er-do-well). Or he may argue that there can be no relation between density and poverty by citing big villages in which people are better off than in neighboring little villages ! If people will blindly breed when there is no longer room to raise more food, the penalty must fall somewhere. The deaths will somehow con- trive to balance the births. It is a mercy that in China the strain comes in the years of infancy, in- stead of later on dragging down great numbers of adults into a state of semi-starvation until they are thinned out sufficiently. The mortality among THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 103 infants is well-nigh incredible. This woman has borne eleven children, and all are dead; that one is the mother of seven, all dying young; another has only two left out of eleven, another, four left out of twelve. Such were the cases that occurred offhand to my informants. One missionary can- vassed his district and found that nine children out of ten never grew up. Dr. McCartney of Chungking, after twenty years of practice there, estimates that seventy-five to eighty-five per cent, of the children born in that region die before the end of the second year. The returns from Hcmg Kong for 1909 show that the number of children dying under one year of age is eighty-seven per cent, of the number of births reported within the year. The first census of the Japanese in For- mosa seems to show that nearly half of the chil- dren born to the Chinese there die within six months. Not all this appalling loss is the result of poverty. The proportion of weakly infants is large, probably owing to the immaturity of the mothers. The use of milk is unknown in China and so the babe that cannot be suckled is doomed. Even when it can, the ignorant mother starts it too early on adult food. In some parts they kill many by stuffing the mouth of the tender infant with a certain indigestible cake. The slaughter of the innocents by mothers who know nothing of how to care for the child is ghastly. And yet so necessary is this loss in order to keep numbers down to the food supply that more than one phy- 104 THE CHANGING CHINESE sician endorsed the remark of a medical mis- sionary: that the doctor who should get these mothers together and teach them how to save their babies would be assuming a very grave responsi- bility! Still, much of the child mortality is the direct consequence of economic pressure. A girl is only a burden, for she marries before she is of use to her parents and is lost into her husband's family. Only in default of male children may she invite her parents to live with her husband and herself. Small wonder, then, that not infrequently the female infant is murdered at birth. Again, when the family is already large, the parents despair of raising the child and it perishes from neglect. In Hupeh a man explaining that two of his children have died will say: "Tin lio Hang ~ko hai tsi," "I have been relieved of two children." Another factor is lack of sufficient good food, which also makes so many children very small for their age. The heavy losses from measles, and scarlet fever, are closely connected with overcrowding. For adults overpopulation not only spells priva- tion and drudgery, but it means a life averaging about fifteen years shorter than ours. Small wonder, indeed, for in some places human beings are so thick the earth is literally foul from them. Unwittingly they poison the ground, they poison the water, they poison the air, they poison the growing crops. And while most of them have enough to eat, little has been reserved from the sordid food quest. Here are people with stand- THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 105 ards, unquestionably civilized — peaceable, indus- trious, filial, polite, faithful to their contracts, heed- ful of the rights of others. Yet their lives are dreary and squalid for most of their margins have been swept into the hopper for the production of population. Two coarse blue cotton garments clothe them. In summer the children go naked and the men strip to the waist. Thatched mud hut, no chimney, smoke-blackened walls, unglazed windows, rude unpainted stools, a grimy table, a dirt floor where the pig and the fowls dispute for scraps, for bed a mud hang with a frazzled mat on it. No woods, grass, nor flowers; no wood floors, carpets, curtains, wall-paper, table-cloths nor ornaments; no books, pictures, newspapers, nor musical instruments; no sports nor amuse- ments, few festivals or social gatherings. But everywhere children, naked, sprawling, squirming, crawling, tumbling in the dust — the one possession of which the poorest family has an abundance, and to which other possessions and interests are fa- natically sacrificed. In a census paragraph my eye catches the report of the headmen for a country district of eleven square miles in Anhwei. They re- turn 14,000 souls, nearly 1,200 to the square mile or two to the acre. Despite its quantity of waste land Shantung seems to have 700 to the square mile. Yet it would be an error to assume that at any given moment all parts of China are saturated with people. In Shansi thirty-odd years ago seven-tenths of the in- 106 THE CHANGING CHINESE habitants perished from famine, and the vacant spaces and the crumbling walls that meet the eye show that the gaps have never been quite filled. Since the opening of the railroad to Taiyuanfu, the capital, wanderers from congested Shantung are filtering into the province. The same is true of Shensi which, besides losing five millions of its people in the Mohammedan uprising of the seventies, lost three-tenths of its people by famine in 1900. Kansuh, Yunnan, and Kuangsi have never fully recovered from the massacres following great rebellions, and one often comes on land once cultivated that has reverted to wilder- ness. The slaughters of the Taipings left an abiding mark on Kiangsu and Chekiang. Kuang- tung and Fokien, the maritime provinces of the South, have been relieved by emigration. The tide first set in to Formosa and California, later it turned to the Dutch Indies, Malaysia, Indo- China, Singapore, the Philippines, Burmah, Siam, Borneo, and Australia. About ten millions are settled outside of China with the result of greatly mitigating the struggle for existence in these prov- inces. Within recent years $9,000,000 have flowed into the Sanning district from which the first Kuangtung men went out to California and to Singapore. It has all been brought back or sent back by emigrants. The fine burnt-brick farm housec with stone foundations, the paved threshing floors and the stately ancestral halls that astonish one in the rural villages along the coast of Fokien g5 a ** 88 O o CD CD a- &' 5" en? THE STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE 109 are due to remittances from emigrants. In the tiger-haunted, wooded hills thirty miles from Foo- chow one comes on terraces proving former culti- vation of soils it is no longer necessary to till. The near future of population in China may be predicted with some confidence. Within our time the Chinese will be served by a government on the Western model. Rebellions will cease, for grievances will be redressed in time, or else the standing army will nip uprising in the bud. When a net of railways enables a paternal gov- ernment to rush the surplus of one province to feed the starving in another, famines will end. The opium demon is already in the way of being throttled. As a feeling of security becomes established the confining walls of the cities will be razed to allow the pent-up people to spread. Wide streets, parks and sewers will be provided. Filtered water will be within reach of all. A uni- versity-trained medical profession will grapple with disease. Everywhere health officers will make war on plague-bearing rats and mosquitoes as to-day in Hong Kong. Epidemics will be fought with quarantine and serum and isolation hos- pitals. Milk will be available and district nurses will instruct mothers how to care for their in- fants. In response to such life-saving activities the death rate in China ought to decline from the present height of fifty or fifty-five per thousand to the point it has already reached in a modern- ized Japan, namely, twenty per thousand. 110 THE CHANGING CHINESE But to lower the birth rate in equal degree — that, alas, is quite another matter. The factors responsible for the present fecundity of fifty to sixty per thousand — three times that of the Amer- ican stock and nowhere matched in the white man's world, unless it be in certain districts in Russia and certain parishes in French Canada — will not yield so readily. It may easily take the rest of this century to overcome ancestor worship, early marriage, the passion for big families and the inferior position of the wife. For at least a generation or two China will produce rapidly in the Oriental way people who will die off slowly in the Occidental way. When the death rate has been planed down to twenty the birth rate will still be more than double, and numbers will be growing at the rate of over two per cent, a year. Even with the aid of a scientific agriculture it is, of course, impossible to make the crops of China feed such an increase. It must emigrate or starve. It is the outward thrust of surplus Japanese that is to-day producing dramatic polit- ical results in Corea and Manchuria. In forty or fifty years there will come an outward thrust of surplus Chinese on ten times this scale. With a third of the adults able to read and with daily newspapers thrilling the remotest village with tidings of the great world, eighteen provinces will be pouring forth emigrants instead of two. To Mexico, Central and South America, South- western Asia, Asia Minor, Africa, and even old Europe, the black-haired bread-seekers will THE STRUGGLE FOE EXISTENCE 111 stream, and then "What shall we do with the Chinese 1" from being in turn a Calif ornian, an Australian, a Canadian, and a South African question, will become a world question. CHAPTER V THE INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA THERE are three possibilities known as the "yellow peril.' ' One is the swamping of the slow-multiplying, high-wage, white societies with the overflow that is bound to come when China has applied Western knowledge to the sav- ing of human life. This is real and imminent, and nothing but a concerted policy of exclusion can avert it. Another is the overmatching of the white people by colossal armies of well-armed and well-drilled yellow men who, under the in- spiring lead of some Oriental Bonaparte, will first expel the Powers from Eastern Asia and later overrun Europe. This forecast is dream-stuff. One who goes up and down among these teeming proletarians realizes that, save among the Mohammedans of the Northwest, the last traces of the military spirit evaporated long ago. The folk appear to possess neither the combative impulses nor the energy of will of the West Europeans. Chinese lads quarrel in a girlish way with much reviling but little pounding; with random flourishing of fists, but only when there is no danger of their finding the opponent's face. A row among coolies 112 INDUSTBIAL FUTUKE OF CHINA 113 impresses one much more with the objurgatory richness of the language than with the fighting prowess of the race. Very striking is the contrast with the game- cock Japanese who, fresh from a military feudal- ism, are still full of pugnacity. At Singapore three thousand Chinese were detained in quaran- tine with three hundred Japanese. The latter made insolent demands such as that they be served their rice before the Chinese. The Celestials could easily have crushed this handful of brown men but in the end, rather than have "trouble," they accepted second table. Not that the Chinese is chicken-hearted. Indeed, there is tiger enough in him when aroused; but he simply does not believe in fighting as a way of settling disputes. To him it is uneconomical, hence foolish. In Malaya it has been observed that, no matter how turbulent a crowd of Chinese may become, if one of their headmen holds up his hand, they quiet down till they have heard what he has to say. Their tumult is calculated and they do not get beside themselves with rage as will a mob of Japanese or East Indians. The new army is a vast improvement, but still its fighting spirit may well be doubted. ' ' How do you like the service?" an American asked a couple of reservists. "Very well." "How if a war should break out?" "Oh, our friends will let us know in time so we can run away. ' ' Smart- ing under repeated humiliations the haughty Manchu princes are forging the new army as an 114 THE CHANGING CHINESE instrument of revenge; but the Chinese people prize it as a buckler only and do not intend it shall take the offensive. In the officers one misses the martial visage, the firm chin and set jaw that proclaim the overriding will. The wondering look and the unaggressive manner of the private re- veals the simple country lad beneath the khaki. The Japanese peasant has the bold air of the soldier; the Chinese soldier has the mild bearing of the peasant. Belief that right makes might and that all difficulties can be settled by appeal- ing to the li, i. e., the Beasonable, so saturates Chinese thought that nothing but a succession of shocks that should move the national character from its foundation will lay them open to the military spirit. Long before they have lost their faith in peace, the Chinese will be too strong to be bullied and too flourishing to seek national prosperity through conquest. The third "yellow peril" is the possibility of an industrial conquest of the West by the Orient. Contemplating the diligence, sobriety and clever- ness of the Chinese in connection with their immense numbers and their low standard of comfort, some foresee a manufacturing China driving us out of neutral markets with great quantities of iron, steel, implements, ships, ma- chinery and textiles of an incredible cheapness, and obliging our workingmen, after a long dis- astrous strife with their employers, to take a Chinese wage or starve. Against such a calamity the great industrial nations will be able to protect The railway police at a station Chinese Officers Note lack of the determined, firm-jawed military visage INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 117 themselves neither by immigration barriers, nor by tariff walls. Assuredly the cheapness of Chinese labor is something to make a factory owner's mouth water. The women reelers in the silk filatures of Shanghai get from eight to eleven cents for eleven hours of work. But Shanghai is dear; and, besides, everybody there complains that the laborers are knowing and spoiled. In the steel works at Hanyang common labor gets $3 a month, just a tenth of what raw Slavs command in the South Chicago steel works. Skilled mechanics get from eight to twelve dollars. In a coal mine near Ichang a thousand miles up the Yangtse the coolie receives one cent for carrying a 400-lb. load of coal on his back down to the river a mile and a half away. He averages ten loads a day but must rest every other week. The miners get seven cents a day and found; that is, a cent's worth of rice and meal. They work eleven hours a day up to their knees in water, and all have swollen legs. After a week of it they have to lie off a couple of days. No wonder the cost of this coal (semi- bituminous) at the pit's mouth is only thirty-five cents a ton. At Chengtu servants get a dollar and a half a month and find themselves. Across Szechuan lusty coolies were glad to carry our chairs half a day for four cents each. In Sianfu the common coolie gets three cents a day and feeds himself, or eighty cents a month. Through Shansi roving harvesters were earning from four to twelve cents a day and farm hands got five or 118 THE CHANGING CHINESE six dollars a year and their keep. Speaking broadly, in any part of the Empire, willing labor- ers of fair intelligence may be had in any number at from eight to fifteen cents a day. With an ocean of such labor power to draw on, China would appear to be on the eve of a manu- facturing development that will act like a con- tinental upheaval in changing the trade map of the world. The impression is deepened by the tale of industries that have already sprung up. In twenty years the Chinese have established forty-six silk filatures, thirty-eight of them in Shanghai. More than a dozen cotton-spinning mills are supplying yarn to native hand looms. Two woolen mills are weaving cloth for soldiers' uniforms. In Shanghai there are pure Chinese factories making glass, cigarettes, yellow-bar soap, tooth-brushes, and roller-process flour. The Hanyang Iron and Steel Works — with 5,000 men in the plant and many thousands more mining and transporting its ore and coal — is doubling its capacity, having last year contracted with an American syndicate to furnish annually for fif- teen years from 36,000 to 72,000 tons of pig-iron to a steel plant building at Irondale on Puget Sound. Those who judge by surfaces anticipate a de- velopment swift and dramatic; to our race a catastrophe or a blessing according as one cares for the millions or the millionaires. But, peer- ing beneath the surface, one descries certain factors which forbid us to believe that the in- INDUSTKIAL FUTUEE OF CHINA 119 dustriai blooming of the yellow race is to occur in our time. Before flooding world markets the yellow-labor mills must supply the wants of the Chinese them- selves for manufactured goods ; and, even if, man for man, they have not more than a seventh of the buying power of Americans, China still offers a market more than half as large as that of the whole United States. Its estimated annual con- sumption of cotton goods would carpet a road- way sixty feet wide from here to the moon ! Ow- ing to the indefinitely expanding market Eastern Asia will afford for the cheap machine-made fabrics, utensils, implements, cutlery, toilet articles and time-pieces to pour forth from the native factories to be established, the evil day is yet distant when the white man's product will be beaten from the South American or African fields by the handiwork of the yellow man. Then production is not always so cheap as wages are low. For all his native capacity, the coolie will need a long course of schooling, industrial train- ing, and factory atmosphere before he inches up abreast of the German or American workingman. At a railway center in North China is a govern- ment establishment that imports bridge materials from Europe, builds up the beams, fits and punches them, and sends them out in knock-down state to the place where the bridge is needed. Yet, with labor five times as cheap, it cannot furnish iron bridges as cheaply as they can be imported from Belgium, which means that at pres- 120 THE CHANGING CHINESE ent, one Belgian iron-worker is worth more than five Chinese. It will take at least a generation or two for the necessary technical skill to become hereditary among these working people. Active China, which is about as large as the United States east of the Eocky Mountains, has less than 7,000 miles of railway. Owing to the thick population and the intensive agriculture the traffic potency of most parts is even now so great that, no doubt, ten times the present mileage, if economically constructed and managed, would yield handsome dividends on the investment. Now, at best it would take China's spare capital for the next thirty years to build the railways the country ought to have. It must be borne in mind, too, that, outside a few treaty ports, the new in- dustries await the initiative of the Chinese. Gone forever are the halcyon days of Li Hung Chang's railway and mining concessions, when a single foreigner could obtain the exclusive right to mine coal and iron over 5,400 square miles of the rich- est mineral-bearing province. The rising nation- alism with its cry, "China for the Chinese," has put an end to all that. The Government has re- covered certain of the railway concessions and the people of Shansi paid the Peking Syndicate two-and-one-quarter millions of dollars to re- linquish an undeveloped concession. China will, no doubt, block the path of the foreign exploiter as carefully as Japan has, and her mills and mines will be Chinese or nothing. But the courage of the Chinese capitalist is chilled by the rapacity of INDUSTEIAL FUTUBE OF CHINA 121 officials unchecked by law court or popular suf- frage. One of the directors of the Shanghai- Hangchow Railway — a purely Chinese line — tells me their chief trouble in building the road was the harassing ''inspections" which obliged them to bribe the officials in order to go on with the work. Moreover, Peking forced upon the com- pany a large, unneeded foreign loan which would have been expended by government men without the stockholders knowing how much stuck to the fingers of the officials. So, instead of using the money for building the road, the company loaned it out in small amounts at a high interest and will repay it as soon as the terms of the loan permit. The case of Fokien shows how irresponsible gov- ernment paralyzes the spirit of enterprise. For half a century Fokienese have been wandering into the English and Dutch possessions in Southeast- ern Asia, where not a few of them prosper as merchants, planters, mine operators, contractors and industrialists. Some of them return with capital, technical knowledge, and experience in managing large undertakings. Yet, aside from a saw mill — the only one I saw in China — I hear of not one modern undertaking in the province. The coal seams lie untouched. The mandarins lay it to the difficulty of getting the coal to tidewater. The Fokienese rich from his tin-mining in Perak — there are thirty Chinese millionaires in the Malay States — tells you it is dread of official ' ' squeeze. ' ' The country back of Swatow is rich in minerals. 122 THE CHANGING CHINESE But what probably would happen to a retired Singapore contractor so rash as to embark on a mining venture there? The clan of Hakkas in the neighborhood of the ore deposit would demand' something for letting him work it unmolested. The local mandarin would have to be squared. The "li kin" officials would sweat him well before letting his imported machinery go up the river. The magistrate of every district his product touched in going down to the coast would hold him up. Finally, at any moment, his operations might be halted by an outbreak of superstitious fear lest they were disturbing the earth dragon and spoil- ing the luck of the community. Small wonder a high imperial official confessed to me — in confi- dence — that not one penny of his fortune ever goes into a concern not under foreign protection. His Excellency Wu Ting Pang is so impressed with the blight of insecurity that he suggests that, instead of clamoring for an early parliament, the people exact of the Imperial Government a Magna Charta guaranteeing the following rights: No arrest without a proper warrant; public trial within twenty-four hours; no punishment or fin- ing of the relatives of a convicted person ; no con- fiscation of the property of his partners or busi- ness associates. Although vast in aggregate the agriculture of China is petty agriculture and its industry is petty industry. Its business men are' unfamiliar with the management of large-scale enterprises and INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 125 have had no experience with the joint-stock com- pany. Highly honorable as merchants and bank- ers, they have never worked out an ethics for the stock company, and in such relations they are the prey of a mutual distrust which is only too well founded. The taking of commissions has become so in- grained in the Chinese that it is no longer a moral fact but only an economic fact. Your cook takes his wages as a recompense for his technical serv^ ices only; for his services as a business man in buying for your household he feels himself en- titled to a profit. Bray him in a mortar but you will not get the notion out of him. A customs chief tells me how thirty years ago when he was a newcomer he complained bitterly to his Chinese teacher about the way he as a foreigner was robbed by his servants. "But," explained the scholar, "we Chinese suffer from the practice as much as you do. If I give the old woman who is my servant five cash to buy food for me she keeps one cash. If I give her one cash to buy vinegar she cannot pocket her commission, but she will not be foiled; she spills a little of the vinegar!" This is why as soon as a business capital is any- where got together it begins mysteriously to melt away. A company formed to build a certain rail- way maintains an idle office staff of ten, and station-masters have been engaged and put on the pay-roll, although not a rail has been laid. Much of the pay of these lucky employes goes, no doubt, to those who appointed them. Sleepers 126 THE CHANGING CHINESE were bought in great quantities, and after lying for a year were sold to carpenters. One of the government railways called for tenders for sleep- ers. A German firm bid lowest and filled the order. Later, when more sleepers were wanted, the purchasing official, instead of calling for new bids, telegraphed to the firm, "Your Japanese competitor has come down to your figure, but you may have the contract for a moderate commis- sion." The offer was ignored, and the Japanese supplied the sleepers, no doubt after giving a douceur. In a big government works the foreign expert after due tests designated a certain coal as the best in heating capacity. The first lot supplied to him by the purchasing agent of the works was K. The second was poor, although the agent stoutly insisted it was the same coal. He had been given a commission to substitute the inferior fuel. The railway engineer, whether foreigner or Chi- nese, is continually put out by the arrival from oversea of machinery or materials different in kind or grade from what he had ordered. The cause is not inadvertence. There are thirteen railways now being constructed on the basis of "everything Chinese," and most of them have one trait in common; the money goes faster than the construction. The Amoy-Changchowfu line, the first in Fokien, proceeds with disappointing slow- ness. Great piles of rails and ties lie deteriorat- ing, waiting for road-bed. The construction of the Canton-Hankow line advances at what the INDUSTRIAL FUTUEE OF CHINA 127 stockholders feel to be a snail's pace. The Anhwei Railway Company has disbursed five million taels and not a mile of track is completed. The piers for the bridges are ready, the structural iron for them is on the ground, and thirteen miles of grad- ing is completed. But the company's money and credit are gone, the shareholders are disgusted, and work is nearly at a standstill. There are enough of such experiences to make one call China ' ' the land of broken promise. ' ' Some of the trou- ble is due to bad judgment, but too often the man- agement has been pulled out of plumb by the itch for commissions. "With us the individual early detaches himself from his family and circulates through society as a free self -moving unit. In China family and clan ties mean more, and there are few duties more sacred than that of helping your kinsmen even at other people 's expense. You feel it is right to provide berths for your relatives and no scruple as to their comparative fitness tweaks your con- science. When an expectant is appointed to office (not in his own province, of course), his relatives even unto the n th degree call upon him with con- gratulations and suggest that he find places for them in his new post. After he takes office the proteges of his predecessor, realizing that their room is more prized than their company, have the grace to get out as soon as they can "look around. ' ' Now, this pestilent nepotism quickly fastens it- self upon industrial undertakings. The manager 128 THE CHANGING CHINESE of a government plant on looking into one of the departments, which was going badly, found that thirty-three out of the fifty-five men in that depart- ment were relatives of the foreman. Since two years ago, when the Peking-Hankow Railway came under Chinese management, the positions along the line have been filled on the basis of sheer favoritism, with the result of loading the pay-roll with incompetents. No wonder the ticket-seller regards the crowd at the ticket-window as a nui- sance, and lets them fume while he chats with his friends. And you may hear the track manager complain bitterly of having to put in and retain certain relatives of the director, who cannot do the work assigned them. So desperate is the struggle to live and so in- grained is the spirit of nepotism that whenever a capital is laid out by anyone else than the owner employes multiply like locusts. They drop out of the clouds and spring up from the ground. The government offices at Peking are clogged with useless place-holders. You marvel that colleges with twenty-five or thirty teachers maintain ten officers of administration until you realize that half of them are sinecurists. In one plant the foreign expert found thirty-six parasites sucking the water-pipe all day and drawing good pay. One was purchaser of coal, another purchaser of wood, another custodian of the steam-fittings, and so on. At Lin Ching a Belgian company came to terms with a Chinese company with a concession by giv- n ■A a o\ 2 o INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 131 ing them half the stock and agreeing to pay a Chinese director and a Chinese engineer in addi- tion, of course, to the foreign director and the for- eign engineer. The theory is that the Belgians and the Chinese are partners in operating the col- liery; but the naked fact is, that the latter are mere parasites on the enterprise. The Chinese director lives at Tientsin on his seven hundred dol- lars a month, and never goes near the mine. The Chinese engineer with his two hundred and twenty- five dollars a month and a fine house built him near the mine gives no technical services whatever but goes about suppressing the petty native coal diggings that impair the exclusiveness of the com- pany's concession! In another place a German company has opened coal mines under an arrangement whereby the Chinese take half the nominal capital and a Chi- nese director is paid a fine salary. He lives at Tientsin and never comes near the works. The German manager directs and he earns his salary. If the coal is being pilfered and he makes com- plaint to the hsien magistrate against the culprits, they are persistently let off until the manager calls and fills the pockets of the worthy mandarin with dollars. Then the thieves are bambooed. Under such harassments the foreign staff as a whole can take no holiday. They must be on the spot all the time, for the moment they leave things go badly and in a short time the plant would be ruined. At the present stage the Chinese business man 132 THE CHANGING CHINESE can get along neither with the foreign expert nor without him. Four hundred miles up the West Eiver you see tons of heavy machinery lying on the bank. It was imported for smelting silver ore in the mountains fifteen miles away. The Chinese found themselves unable to set up the smelter, so the machinery rusts while the ore is smelted in England. An engineer will be given lot after lot of bad coal because his manager never thinks of fuel in terms of heating capacity. To him coal is coal and the cheapest is the best. Shansi is the Pennsylvania of the Empire, and at great price the provincials regained the right to exploit its mineral wealth themselves. Yet a certificated colliery manager has been four years at Shansi University as professor of mining and never has his professional opinion been sought on a mining question ! The Hanyang Company appreciates the expert and employs twenty-two French and Belgians to supervise the making of steel. But not always are the Chinese so fortunate. The first Swatow Electric Light Company failed through reliance upon a foreigner who was less of an expert than he represented himself to be. About three years ago the " Protection of Shansi" Mining Company undertook to develop coal-mining in their prov- ince. The first expert they employed was to reconnoiter and report. He spent several months going about, but, as he failed to map his wander- ings and finds, his reports were worth little. Then a great English expert was engaged, but INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 133 when, on reaching Tientsin, he learned he was ex- pected to spend months in the field instead of a few weeks, he took his expenses and went home. When, finally, a twenty-foot vein of coal was at- tacked, expert after expert quit because each in- sisted on having things done right, and the com- pany would not follow his advice. It is plain that both the native capitalists and the imported experts have grievances. The situation is un- fortunate, and cannot but retard development until China has good engineering and technical schools for training experts of her own. The inefficiency of the management of Chinese undertakings is heart-rending in its waste of sweat-won wealth. The superintendent of con- struction of a railroad will be a worthy mandarin, without technical knowledge or experience, who has to rely wholly on his subordinates. Or the prominent financier chosen president of the com- pany feels himself quite above the vulgar details of management and so delegates the task to some- one of less consequence. This gentleman, too, feels above the work, and passes it down to some- one else. So the big men become figureheads and little men run the enterprise. Any government undertaking suffers from the conceit and un- practically of the mandarins. The initial price of the cement from a government plant was fixed at a dollar a barrel more than the cost of good foreign cement. The officials thought that the people would beg for "imperial cement" regard- less of price. 134 THE CHANGING CHINESE When the government match factory was pro- jected for Taiyuanfu the factory was built, ma- chinery was ordered from, the United States and workmen were hired. But the machinery never came for no money had accompanied the order, and the workmen were paid for doing nothing un- til in a couple of years the fund allotted to the enterprise was exhausted. Not long ago the en- terprise was revived and the government product has now crowded out the Japanese matches. Near Wuhu is a modern brick kiln which under a foreign superintendent turned out excellent bricks at the same price as those from the native kilns ; but under Chinese management the quality has sunk until the output is little better than the native bricks. Again, the Chinaman is handicapped by his lust for immediate profit without regard to the future. For example, near the end of 1909 Captain Plant began running the "Shutung" through the Yangtse Gorges to Chungking. It was the first steam service on that dangerous reach and the little steamer made money so fast that her Chinese owners, intent only on the gain of the moment, gave the Captain no time between trips to clean her engines. Only when the indispensable skipper refused to make another trip was he granted a week to overhaul her vitals. Years ago Dr. Nevius, a missionary at Chefoo, set out the best of American fruit trees and the product of his orchard became famous through- out the Far East. But on his death the orchard INDUSTRIAL FUTURE OF CHINA 137 came into the hands of a Chinaman who, greedy of the maximum profit, made it a pasture for pigs, neglected to loosen the soil and never pruned the trees. As a result the fruit has greatly deterior- ated, the cherries have become small, the apples and pears knotty, woody and wormy. The fact is the faulty past lies too heavily on the mind and the character of contemporary Chinese. The real strength of the race will not generally declare itself till a new generation is on the stage, bred in the new education and en- forcing a higher code. Perhaps the moral atmos- phere will not clear till there has come a marked let-up in the struggle for existence. At the back of the business man's mind lurks, I fancy, a dim sense of a myriad clutching hands. People do not judge one another very strictly when each acts with the abyss ever before his eyes. The excellent reputation enjoyed by the Chinese business men in Malaysia suggests that only in a land of op- portunity does the natural solidity of character of the yellow race show itself. In the Straits Set- tlements the Chinese are successful producers of pith helmets, chemicals, medicines, lighthouse lenses, machine-carved furniture, ice-making ma- chines, wines, liqueurs and other articles not yet attempted by their brethren at home. It is not likely, then, that the march of indus- trialism in China will be so rapid and triumphant as many have anticipated. Jealousy of the foreigner, dearth of capital, ignorant labor, offi- cial squeeze, graft, nepotism, lack of experts, and 138 THE CHANGING CHINESE inefficient management will long delay the harness- ing of the cheap labor power of China to the machine. Not we, nor our children, but our grandchildren, will need to lie awake nights. It is along in the latter half of this century that the yellow man's economic competition will begin to mold with giant hands the politics of the planet. CHAPTER VI THE GEAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL IT was in West China. Our sedan chairs were a mile behind us, and we were not sure of the road. ' ' How far is it to Paoki f ' ' the consul asked a peasant. No answer. ''How far is it to Paoki?" The man turned his head a little. The third asking brought a glimmer of speculation into the vacant eyes. On the fourth asking he caught the idea ' ' Paoki. ' ' The fifth punctured his mental fog with "How far?" and slowly and thickly as from a sleep-walker came the reply, "Forty li." "What does it mean?" I demanded after a dozen such experiences in a single morn- ing. " Is it sheer natural stupidity ? " " No, ' ' re- plied the consul, ruminating, "probably opium. You have heard the saying 'Out of ten Shensi people, eleven smokers!' " This was my first good look at China's Skele- ton in the Closet. Opium smoking was first heard of in China in the fourteenth century. In 1729 there was an edict issued which prohibited the use of opium and ordered the closing of the smoking-dens. Nobody knows whether or not it was enforced. Late in that century, in consequence of the British East India Company's pushing its Bengal opium 139 140 THE CHANGING CHINESE into the various ports of China, the habit took root in all parts of the country. The British found that it was a lucrative trade and never let up. The total gain from Indian opium — that is, the amount paid by China and Eastern Asia for that commodity above its cost price between 1773 and 1906 — has been estimated at two billion, one hundred millions of dollars. About 1840, the Chinese Emperor became so alarmed at the in- roads of the poison that he appointed Lin Im- perial Commissioner at Canton with orders to put down the trade. His efforts brought him into collision with the English traders and his de- struction of ten thousand chests of opium pre- cipitated the First Opium War. It ended in Eng- land's forcing on China a humiliating treaty which heavily indemnified the traders for their losses. In 1857 came the Second Opium War re- sulting in the Treaty of Tientsin which bound the government of China not to interfere with nor limit the introduction of Indian opium into the Empire. Until this time the government had not tol- erated the cultivation of the poppy plant; but now, rather than see the country drained of silver to buy of India a narcotic that can easily be pro- duced on the soil of China, the government re- moved its restriction, and the poppy spread with great rapidity. In the end six-sevenths of the opium consumed by the Chinese was home-grown. Meanwhile the luxury use of opium spread with appalling rapidity. Four years ago the GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 141 Chinese were using seventy times as much, opium as they were using in 1800. Annually twenty-two thousand tons of the drug were absorbed, most of it converted into thick smoke and inhaled by a legion of smokers estimated to number at least twenty-five millions. Even the English allow there were eight million smokers. In the poppy provin- ces opium was so plentiful and cheap that a shocking proportion of the adult population be- came addicted to the habit. In Szechuan, in the cities half of the men and a fifth of the women came to smoke opium. In the country the pro- portions were fifteen per cent, and five per cent, respectively. In Kansuh three men out of four were said to be smokers. In western Shensi we came upon districts where we were assured that nine-tenths of the women above forty smoked. In Yunnan the principal inquiry in matrimonial negotiations was, "How many opium pipes in the family?" this being a certain indication of its financial standing. Whole populations had given themselves up to the seductive pipe and were sink- ing into a state of indescribable lethargy, misery and degradation. The pipe has a peculiar seduction for the Chinese because their lives are so bare of interest. They indulge in none of that innocent companion- ship of men and women which contributes such a charm to life. They take to their twin vices — opium smoking and gambling — as a relief from the dreary flatness that results from sacrificing most of the things that make life interesting in 142 THE CHANGING CHINESE the mad endeavor to maintain the largest possible number of human beings on the minimum area. Under a family system that tempts them to multi- ply without regard to prospects the Chinese have pruned away much that lends value to life. Five years ago the Philippine Opium Commission ob- served in its report: "What people on earth are so poorly provided with food as the indigent Chinese, or so destitute of amusement as all Chinese both rich and poor? There are no outdoor games in China, or indeed any games except in a gambling sense. Absolute dullness and dreariness seem to prevail every- where. As these two demons drive the Cauca- sians to drink so they drive the Chinese to opium. As an individual may by habitual toil and atten- tion to business become incapable of amusement, so a race of almost incredible antiquity, which has toiled for millenniums, may likewise reach a point in its development where the faculty of being amused has atrophied and disappeared, so that all that remains is the desire to spend leisure in placidity. And nothing contributes so much to this as opium. In Formosa the merry Japanese boys are teaching the placid Chinese lads to play tennis, foot ball, polo, vaulting, etc., with the view — the Japanese teachers say — of improving them physically and also of developing in them a love of sports which will prevent them from wishing to spend their leisure indoors smoking opium. And the poor who have no leisure? They often have no food, or so little that any drug which removes GKAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 143 first the pangs of hunger, and later the healthy- cravings of appetite, seems a boon to them. Add to this the feeling of peace and well being that often accompanies the smoking of opium, and it is not difficult to see why the indigent Chinese use it. We administer morphine to relieve pain. The life of the indigent Chinese coolie is pain caused by privation. The opium sot is an object of pity rather than of contempt. If the Chinese seem more easily to contract such evil habits than other nations, and are more the slave of them, is not that due to the dullness of the lives of the well- to-do and to the painful squalor of the indigent ? ' ' A month's travel by sedan chair gave me some light on why the coolie hankers for his pipe. Our chair and baggage coolies took with them no wrap nor change of clothing and eight successive days of rain brought them to a state of utter misery. After twelve hours of splashing and slipping up and down the mountain roads and fording swollen torrents in a cold drizzle under a weight of from seventy to ninety pounds they would come at even- ing utterly exhausted to a cheerless, comfortless Chinese inn. No fire, no clothing save two soaked cotton garments; no bed save a brick hang with a ragged mat on it; no blankets. For supper nothing but rice and bean curd or macaroni. What wonder that, after eating, the poor fellow curled up on the mat with the tiny lamp beside him, rolled the black bead and sucked the thick smoke till he passed beyond the reach of cold, discomfort and weariness ! 144 THE CHANGING CHINESE One may wonder why the cancer was allowed to eat so deeply into the social body. To be sure, the hands of the government were tied by the treaty privileges of the trade in foreign opium. Still, what Western society would tolerate the ravages of alcohol as China has supinely tolerated the ravages of opium? Even if government FAMILY AND HOME VANISHING INTO THE OPIUM PIPE (Native reform cartoon) could do nothing, other agencies would have sprung into activity. The pulpit, the platform, the school, the chair, the press, and the temperance societies and movements would have set bounds to the gangrene. But Chinese society lacks most of these organs of self-protection. In the re- ligions of China there is no place for preaching or church discipline. The schools were expected GEAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 145 to teach nothing but the classic learning. News- papers did not circulate. Private associations, even innocent societies for moral purposes, were under the ban of government. Above all, women, the natural foes of destructive vice, were bound and dumb. One of the greatest forces behind the temperance movement in the West has been the influence of women, rallying, organizing, and agitating in defense of the home. But in China not one woman in a thousand can read. Women have no part in discussion, no place in public life and hence no means of voicing the woe that comes to them from the smoking of opium by their men folk. What finally moved the Imperial Government, at a heavy sacrifice of public revenue, to enter on its great struggle was not so much pity for the wreck and misery caused by the seductive narcotic as a realizing sense of the weakness of the Chinese nation in the presence of the Western Powers. The reign of apathy and selfishness among the Chinese, their lack of public spirit and effective cooperation at critical moments were inviting treatment ever more aggressive and ruthless. It became clear even to the haughty and hide-bound Manchu that, unless the people speedily renounced the vice that was undermining its manhood and recovered its normal resisting power, there was no hope for China among the nations. The famous Anti-Opium Edict issued by the Empress Dowager September 20, 1906, which commanded that the growth, sale, and consump- 146 THE CHANGING CHINESE tion of opium should cease in the Empire within ten years was the opening gun in what is un- doubtedly the most extensive warfare on a vicious private habit that the world has ever known. The gigantic moral conflict has raged over a territory comparable in size to the United States. Hun- dreds of thousands of officials, gentry, students, merchants and den-keepers have been drawn into it. Blood has been shed and property has been destroyed on a great scale. The stake is the lives of some millions of opium-users, to say nothing of the oncoming generations. The guerdon of victory is the assured independence of the yellow race and its eventual participation on equal terms with the white race in the control of the destinies of the planet. Once see the poppy in her pride and you realize that there is nothing drab nor homespun about opium raising. Among plots of sordid beans or pulse or cabbages the poppy field stands out like a flame. At full bloom its splendor befits a crop that is to lure and ruin men rather than nourish them. The dominant note is snow white, but bells of all gorgeous hues are to be seen : purple, ruby, crimson, scarlet and pink, besides white blossoms tipped or streaked with these — a riot of color. For rich prodigal beauty no field crop under the sun can match it. The flowering poppy is vivid, dramatic and passionate, like some superb ad- venturess luring troops of lovers and, vampire- like, sucking out their souls with her kisses. South half of the west wall of Sianf u, from the west gate City wall and five-story pagoda, Canton GEAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 149 Nor is the harvesting commonplace. When the poppy's time has come all you see is thousands of spherical pods one or two inches through, erect each on its slender reed-like stem. A man with a small knife follows the rows cutting lightly around every pod. Drop by drop a juice exudes, milky at first but which in a day or two turns brown and gummy. Then the reaper goes about scraping from the pods this precious gum. Just a few pounds of drug to the acre — that is all there is to it. And the stalks dry and bleach like the cast-off skin of a rattlesnake until they are gathered for fuel, and the pods are threshed for the poppy seed to be ground for food or pressed for oil. Now, raw opium is a poison, and when the crop is in the unhappy women who have been waiting for it — for women abhor a violent death — seize their opportunity. When we were at Wukung in Shensi the mission ladies there were being called out nearly every day to give an emetic and save the life of some poor creature who thought to end her sorrows with the only poison within her reach. From the adjoining province a cor- respondent writes: ''One benefit of the continual rise in the price of opium is the manifestly de- creasing number of attempts at suicide by taking the drug. One now finds it hard to extract death from ten rolls of opium and the increased cost of poison is deterring many would-be suicides. The present make of opium-rolls, selling at ten cash, contain only about three parts of opium to seven 150 THE CHANGING CHINESE of horse-hoofs and other leather waste." In other words, when suicide costs as much as ten cents it is a luxury that few can afford. In a province where a servant gets eighty cents a month and finds himself, this is not to be wondered at. In most parts of China the cultivation of the poppy has been spreading at an alarming rate within our own time. It is especially, however, the interior provinces, shut away by mountain ranges from the commercial highways, that have gone over to poppy growing. The reason is that opium is the one crop that can be got to market without most of its value being eaten up in the cost of transportation. A coolie will trot a picul [133 lbs.] of opium to market over several hun- dred miles of atrocious roads without seriously adding to the cost of the drug that sells for from two to ten dollars a pound. No mere food prod- uct of the same soil could profitably be carried a twentieth of the distance to find a market. To the farmers of Yunnan, Kweichow, Szechuan, Shensi, or Kansuh, opium is the only road to the market, just as in "Washington's time whiskey was the only route by which the trans- Allegheny settlers could get their surplus corn to tidewater. And poppy prohibition stung some of them into resistance just as the Federal taxes on spirits galled the farmers of Western Pennsylvania into the Whiskey Eebellion of 1798. When the Empress Dowager took opium by the GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 151 throat half the acreage of certain interior prov- inces was given over to the poppy during its sea- son. So much had the plant cut into the produc- tion of food that the cost of the necessities of life was crowding the local laboring people to the verge of starvation. There was more money in opium than in anything else, and so leases, land rentals and mortgages became adjusted to the lucrative opium crop. To many a farmer the re- linquishment of the poppy would spell blue ruin. The stopping of opium-growing looked about as simple and feasible a proposition as the stopping of corn-growing in the West or of cotton-plant- ing in the South by Act of Congress. Many thought the effete Imperial Government would never show the force and authority necessary to wipe out the chief money-making crop of the peas- antry. The ins and outs of the fight on the poppy are full of the Arabian Nights flavor. When the magistrate proclaims the Anti-Opium Edict and announces that he intends to see it obeyed the cul- tivators call upon him in a body, grovel on their faces before him, remind him that he is the "father and mother" of them all and beseech him to save them from ruin by letting them grow their poppy just this season. Of course there is a fat bribe lurking in the background for the official who is open to that sort of persuasion; and un- less the official is a reformer at heart or else afraid of losing his place, he is not wholly ob- 152 THE CHANGING CHINESE durate. The salary of the mandarin is nominal and he has somehow to squeeze a living income out of his district. But if importunity avails not the farmers re- sort to ruse. They raise the poppy in small patches in out-of-the-way places off the main road — behind walls or trees or up a little side valley — or they cut off the leaves and flowers so the crop cannot be recognized at a distance. They rely on steering-off or bribing shut the eyes of the "runners" sent out from the magistrate's head- quarters to look for infractions of the Edict. If, nevertheless, the mandarin hears of illicit poppy- growing and comes in his big green sedan chair borne on the shoulders of four bearers, with a force of men to pull up the outlawed plants, the tactics suddenly change. He may be met by the men of several confederated villages armed with sickles, pitchforks, and billhooks and intent on mischief. At Wukung shortly before our visit the mob put to flight the satellites" of the magis- trate and even laid rude hands on the official him- self. He took refuge in a temple and sagely let it be known the farmers might grow poppy for all he cared. At Kin Kiangai in Kansuh, the prefect who had come to destroy the growing opium was set upon in the official inn and beaten nearly to death. In a few weeks, however, several of the leaders of the riot were beheaded after a public trial and the overawed farmers hastened to dig up their poppy fields. At Wenchow in Chekiang, when the CO 2 O •a SB ni O m P< GBAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 155 magistrate appeared with a company of soldiers and proceeded to destroy the evil crop, about two thousand farmers attacked his force and a number of rioters and soldiers were injured. Three hun- dred troops and a gunboat were presently dis- patched to the scene and the law-breakers were quelled. Near the capital of Shansi a certain Kung who had fortified himself with drink went about beat- ing a gong and threatening to kill anyone who failed to sow his poppy. When later the magis- trate sent to arrest him he had disappeared. Later on, several women went to his yamen and demanded leave to grow opium. Things looked ugly and the magistrate appealed to the gover- nor of the province who sent him a mandarin with a detachment of three hundred soldiers. Several villages combined and met the force with bucolic weapons in hand. The mandarin became alarmed and ordered his soldiers to fire. After a volley of blank cartridge which only excited derision, the troops fired ball cartridge and fifty fell killed or mortally wounded. Both sides were aghast at the deadliness of the rifles, which the soldiers knew scarcely more about than the peasants. The Chinese soldier is allowed ten cartridges a year for practice, but after the various ' ' squeezes ' ' have been made he gets about three. The ordinary penalty for growing poppy has been a fine and in some cases forfeiture of the field. Though no one has been executed for grow- ing poppy, there have been cases in which the 156 THE CHANGING CHINESE resisters to authority, after due trial and sentence, have been taken out and decapitated in their own fields and their blood has run down between the rows of the poppy they prized more than the public welfare. Since the driving force behind the fight on the poppy comes from above, radiates from the apex of the governmental hierarchy at Peking, the higher officials are, in general, more vigorous in enforcing the Edict than the lower. There are fewer of them; they can be watched, and if they prove lukewarm they can be fined, cashiered, or degraded. In many cases viceroys, governors and taotais have been dismissed for lack of zeal, and new trusty men have been put in their place for the express purpose of putting through the govern- mental policy. But the little local mandarins are too numerous to be generally shaken up or cash- iered. So many of them who have their couple of pipes a day on the sly and want to let things go on in the good old easy way shrink from the risk of enforcing the Edict. Indeed, some of the more enterprising use the threat of enforcing as a club wherewith to blackmail the opium growers and den-keepers. One hears of all sorts of tricks by the small magistrates. One, on learning that his taotai was cruising about the country looking for poppy, saw to it that not one plant was left within sight of the main road; but the taotai foxily took the back road, which was lined with poppy fields, and the tricky magistrate lost his button of rank. GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 157 It is easy for the magistrate when called upon to report to clap his telescope to his blind eye, like Nelson at Copenhagen, and declare, "I see no poppy in my district." So sometimes the viceroy or taotai sends out trusty commissioners — workers in the anti-opium societies that are standing shoulder to shoulder with the govern- ment in the fight — to go up and down looking for poppy. If any is discovered, it will be destroyed and the magistrate will be punished. The missionaries are sworn enemies of opium. Indeed, it was the great memorial signed by 1,333 missionaries from seven countries which, pre- sented in August, 1906, drew forth in Septem- ber the famous Edict, some of it in the very language of the memorial. It was fitting and natural, then, that one of the roving commissioners in Fokien should call on the secretary of a mis- sionary organization and say, "I am very anxious to find and uproot every poppy field; but I can not go everywhere myself to locate these fields. The local police or 'runners' are very venal and they will find the fields, threaten owners with ex- posure, receive their bribes for keeping still and I shall fail in my work. Now, your missionaries are in every part of the district I am sent to in- spect. Please ask them for me to send to you a report of any opium fields in their neighborhood ; and then you give their reports to me, and I will see that the plants are torn up." Within a few hours a circular letter was on its way to a hun- dred men who could not be bought nor brow- 158 THE CHANGING CHINESE beaten, and the astonished missionaries found themselves for once in their lives cogs in the Im- perial Administration of China. The completer a blockade, the greater is the temptation to blockade-running. In like manner, as poppy prohibition approaches success and the price of opium jumps to several times the old figure, the schemes to smuggle through a crop become more and more brilliant. Perhaps the most elaborate ruse on record was worked last year in Szechuan, the great interior province that only two years ago was so given over to poppy-growing that food stuffs had reached an almost prohibitive price. The energetic Viceroy stamped out the poppy in every county but one — Fouchou hsien, about four hundred miles from the Viceroy's capital. In this county, seventy miles across, four-fifths of the cultivated area was in poppy last year and, as the price of opium is from five to ten times what it was, the tricky farmers made their fortunes. The scheme was worked as follows : In Janu- ary the taotai at Chungking, hearing that poppy had been sown despite the prohibition, visited Fouchou with soldiers, deposed the local magis- trate, fined him seven thousand dollars and sent out the soldiers to cut down the poppy. But the farmers covered with earth the sprouts just com- ing up and where the soldiers did see poppy grow- ing they cut off the tops, but took care to cut high enough not to kill the plant. No doubt there were inducements. When after a week the taotai GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 159 and his minions had departed with a fine sense of duty performed, the farmers hastened to un- cover the poppy sprouts. Then they planted peas, beans, or wheat between the rows so that the growth of these crops should later hide the poppy bloom from any distant view. Of course there was the new mandarin to be reckoned with. But he, either scenting a squeeze for himself or acting under secret orders, put out a very orthodox proclamation that poppy was prohibited and then announced that he would make personal inspection in June. If he found any poppy then he would confiscate the land and have the owners beaten. Dear man, he knew quite well that by June all the poppy crops would be harvested and out of sight ! Such wiles can be worked once and no more. The solid fact remains that in opium-steeped Szechuan which was producing a third of the drug produced in China the acreage has been cut down by eighty per cent. No more incontestable evidence of suppression can be offered than the great upward leap in the price of opium. In Honan we found it had doubled in a year and was worth more than its weight in silver. At Taiku in Shansi where no poppy grew last year it was selling for two and a half times its weight in silver and the pipe fiends of the rich old bank- ing families, anticipating a long siege, had laid in a stock to supply their needs for three years. At Hwachow in the same province it was six times as dear as the year before. At Sianfu in 160 THE CHANGING CHINESE Shensi it sold at fifty cents an ounce, three or four times the price of the previous year. At Tehyang in Szechuan where not a spear of poppy grows the price was 1,600 cash an ounce as against 120 cash two years ago. It is a striking fact that in four of the great poppy provinces prohibition has been followed by a season of wonderful harvests which have gone far to compensate the farmers, for their sacrifice and so reconcile them to the reform policy. The_ missionaries see the hand of God in this record wheat crop running from twenty-eight to forty bushels to the acre. This and the restora- tion of so much land to food-growing has made food more plentiful and cheap than it has been for years. New trade is springing up and the Hupeh merchants who were wont to drift every summer through far Kansuh buying the opium crop are now bringing back with them, instead of the enervating drug, goat skins, eagles ' wings, pig bristles, donkey hides, and human hair. In this province the Chinese experts in the agricultural school are by their experiments showing the farmers that they can grow beet root, potatoes and cotton instead of opium. In Fokien farmers are obtaining from our Department of Agriculture cotton seed for experimental planting in fields once given over to poppy growing. As earnest of its resolve to shake off its lethargy and make itself fit to speak with the enemy in the gate the Imperial Government proceeded to purge its ranks of opium-smokers. It was felt the GBAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 161 mandarins must set an example to the common people. In the words of the Edict, "If the offi- cials are fond of the vice, how can they guide the honest folk under them?" So, while officials over sixty years of age were tolerated in case they found themselves unable to throw off the smoking habit, all others were given a stated term within which to break off. If at the end of the term they were not cured, they were obliged to resign. Certain results of these regulations were start- ling. Not only were hundreds dismissed but several high officials — among them two governors and two vice-presidents of Imperial Boards — died in their persevering efforts to conquer the habit. These distressing cases caused the regula- tions to be relaxed so as to allow smokers past fifty to continue in office. Nothing turns a man into a liar like the black smoke, and it soon appeared that many an official who could not or would not quit the pipe was concealing his indulgence in order to keep his of- fice and its emoluments. Suspicions and denun- ciations became the order of the day. It was found necessary to clear the situation by establish- ing testing bureaus at Peking and certain pro- vincial capitals. The suspect was obliged to sub- mit himself to a rigid test. After being searched for concealed opium he was locked up for three days in a comfortable apartment and supplied with good food but no opium. If he held out he was given a clean bill of health, for no opium smoker can endure three days' separation from 162 THE CHANGING CHINESE his pipe. The strongest resolution breaks down under the intolerable craving that recurs each day at the hour sacred to the pipe. Eegardless of ruin to his career the secret smoker, be he even a viceroy or a minister, will on bended knees with tears streaming down his cheeks beg the at- tendant to relieve his agonies by supplying him captives of the lamp and pipe {Native reform cartoon) with the materials for a soothing smoke. Cer- tain highnesses, Princes of the Blood even, were by this means literally "smoked out" and sum- marily cashiered. In the army prohibition has teeth in it, for both officers and common soldiers have been beheaded for obdurate indulgence in the pipe. Foochow, long a seat of missionary influence, has made the most spectacular fight on opium. GBAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 163 When I was there no one under penalty of confiscation of his goods might smoke opium without registering and taking out a permit. Such a permit is issued only to one who can prove that he has the opium-smoking habit. The num- ber of his permit is posted outside the house where he may smoke and he must not smoke any- where else. While he is smoking no one may visit him on any pretext, and after he is through all his paraphernalia — pipe, bowl, lamp, opium box, needle, etc., — must be gathered up and put away. The aim is to lessen illicit smoking and to discourage the indulgence by making it soli- tary. Opium may be sold only by licensed dealers who account for and pay a tax on every ounce they sell, and it may not be sold in the place where it is smoked. No one may cook his opium him- self; he must buy it prepared. The amount the registered smoker may buy daily is stated in his permit. The salesman stamps in a blank space on his permit the amount of each purchase and it must never exceed the amount specified. The smoker must renew his permit every three months and each time it must be filled out for a less amount. After buying his opium he must carry it through the street openly. He may not carry it in his pocket, nor wrapped up, nor in his closed hand, nor in a closed box. No one may make or expose for sale the implements for opium smok- ing. The existing supply must suffice and as this is being reduced from time to time by solemn pub- 164 THE CHANGING CHINESE lie burnings of stacks of paraphernalia, the basis for the vice is continually being cut away. Under the leadership of Lin, grandson of the famous Imperial Commissioner who destroyed the Indian opium, numerous anti-opium societies sprang into existence and cooperated with the officials. Their agents are given full authority to force an entry to any place. Every night their vigilance committees accompanied by policemen to enforce their demands for admittance patrol the -streets on the lookout for illicit selling or smoking. At times they have been attacked and some of them severely beaten but nothing turns them aside. The societies collect and break up paraphernalia seized in their raids or given up by reformed smokers. Prom time to time the stock on hand is stacked up in a ' public place and solemnly burned to signalize the progress of the campaign. Eleven burnings have taken place and the pipes, bowls, plates, lamps, and opium boxes sacrificed by fire are upwards of twenty -five thou- sand. Nothing is spared and no curio seeker need hope to rescue some rare and beautiful pipe by a tempting bid. Thanks to these various endeavors the amount of opium sold in Foochow has fallen off four- fifths and the number of opium-smoking permits out now is less than half the number originally issued. Hardly any but low-class people smoke. Since no new registrations are permitted, opium wins no recruits and its finish is in sight. Perhaps no city matches Foochow in the clever- GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 165 ness of its campaign. In many places the effort was made to close the shops and dens at a single sweep. But always, after the rejoicings and felicitations had died away, the dens quietly re- opened without the usual signboard and smoking went on as before. Spasms of prohibition have DEATH IN THE LAMP OF THE OPIUM SMOKER (Native reform cartoon) failed and only the process of pinching off the evil by a gradually tightening ligature of permits and licenses has succeeded. The story of the fight on the dens is full of in- cidents and alarms. In Anhwei one official went out at night dressed as a coolie and found eight dens filled with people. He had them all bam- booed on the spot, giving the proprietor 300 blows and the smokers 200. The next day not a shop 166 THE CHANGING CHINESE was open. In Amoy the sub-prefect led raids on places where opium smoking was going on, private residences as well as shops. The smokers caught were beaten and their appliances destroyed. In a city in Hunan ten dens were secretly reopened. The magistrate had the places raided at night, the shops were confiscated and sold and the proprie- tors were imprisoned, beaten and cangued. The proceeds from the sale of the property went to support schools and police. Two years ago the founder of the Anti-Opium League reported: "In one city the doors of seven thousand dens have been shut. In other cities from two to three thousand have been closed while in still other cities a thousand such places have been done away with. In a hundred thou- sand market towns throughout the land the dens and divans have been closed. Altogether between one and two million places for the smoking of opium have been removed." Thanks to the posted proclamations and the ex- hortations of officials to headmen and gentry, to the warnings of missionaries, to the soap-box oratory of reformers, to the teachings in the gov- ernment colleges and to the preachments of the rising native press, in many centers a public opinion has been formed which holds up the hands of the government. It is coming to be "bad form" to smoke opium. It is no longer fashion- able to pass around pipes at dinner parties and and young men do not have to acquire the taste as one of the polite accomplishments. A national I O o ^ ►o o O 9! I 5 ' a) a. "*- '« &'"« ss: ^ A- ' *■ GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 169 conscience is beginning to show itself and the slave of the pipe is put to the blush. It is now worth while to make the smoker carry his pur- chased opium in his open hand and wear his per- mit on a big wooden tablet that he cannot conceal. No one has a greater horror of "losing face" than the Chinese, and there is hope that the rising gen- eration will shrink from opium as they shrink from a cobra. Think of it! In thousands upon thousands of communities over this huge empire a battle has been going on. On the one side poppy-growers, den-keepers, dealers and some of the smokers ; on the other, the thoughtful few — reformers and pa- triots who realize China is doomed to be the world's serf if the drug is to go on sapping the strength of the people. Greed versus patriotism — it is just our line-up on liquor, conservation and child labor over again. And the people are coming out of their stupor and their selfishness. They are becoming unified through a common cause. A public has come into being — a public that cares about moral questions. Public opin- ion, which was biting its coral three hundred years ago in the coffee-houses of Shakespeare's London, is taking its baby steps in China. Millions for the first time in their lives have thought, "What is the public good?" And mandarins, dismount- ing from their immemorial high horse, have called together the gentry, the merchants and the headmen of the villages and preached to them of righteousness, judgment and the wrath to come. 170 THE CHANGING CHINESE When Peking allowed ten years for the cleans- ing of the land from the opinm habit, it little dreamed of the enthusiastic response its initiative would call forth or of the rising spirit of patriot- ism that would come to its aid. The accomplish- ment of the five years elapsed has surpassed all anticipations. The production of opium in China has certainly been cut down sixty or seventy per cent., and the reform leaders even insist on eighty per cent. Millions of smokers are breaking off because the price of the drug has risen clear out of their reach. But every stride towards the suppression of poppy-growing leaves the imported Indian opium a larger factor in the situation. In 1907, when the exports of Indian opium to China aggregated 51,000 chests or three thousand four hundred tons, the British Government agreed to reduce this total export at the rate of one-tenth, or fifty-one hundred chests, a year until 1911, with the assur- ance that the reduction would be continued in the same proportion beyond that period provided the Chinese Government had within the period cut down its home production in like degree. In May, 1906, the House of Commons unani- mously resolved that the Indo-Chinese opium trade "is morally indefensible" and requested the Government "to take such steps as may be necessary for bringing it to a speedy close." Nevertheless, when, in May, 1910, the Government was asked whether, seeing that the production of opium in China is being largely restricted, the GKAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 171 British Government felt inclined to respond to the desire of the Chinese Government to shorten the period of nearly eight years during which In- dia is to continue to send opium to China, the Under-Secretary of State for India answered in substance that his Majesty's Government was not disposed to disturb the settlement arrived at. The Christian people of Great Britain replied by making the twenty-fourth of last October, the fif- tieth anniversary of the ratification of the shame- ful treaty of Tientsin, a day of humiliation throughout the British Empire, and of prayer that the opium trade might speedily cease. This dra- matic stroke sent a new reform wave through China and led to the forming of a National Anti- Opium Society with headquarters at Peking. The Chinese Senate in a series of most earnest resolutions appealed to the British Government to release China from her treaty obligations to re- ceive Indian opium. It was pointed out that the great crusade was nearing its crisis. The peas- ants were becoming very restive when they saw their little patches of opium destroyed while the foreign merchant vessels laden with tons of the poison are permitted freely to enter Chinese ports. This spring England yielded to the accumula- ting pressure and entered into an agreement with China whereby she consents to the imposition of a higher duty on opium, agrees not to convey opium to any province of China which has sup- pressed the cultivation and import of native 172 THE CHANGING CHINESE opium, engages to cut down the exports of opium from India until the complete extinction of the trade in 1917, provided China keeps step with her in the suppression of opium growing, and even promises to give the Indian opium trade its coup de grace before 1917 in case proof is received that the production of opium in China has ceased, Thus we are about to see ' ' Finis ' ' written on one of the blackest pages in the history of the rela- tions between East and West. The experience of the Chinese with opium shatters the comfortable doctrine that organized society need not concern itself with bad private habits. The hand of government was withheld for a long time in China, and if any salutary principle of self-limitation lurked in the opium vice it ought to have declared itself long ago. If it were in the nature of opium-smoking to confine its ravages to fools and weaklings, if out of each generation it killed off the two or three per cent, of least foresight or feeblest self-control, it might be looked upon as the winnower of chaff; and society might safely concede a man the right to go to the devil in his own way and at his own pace. But the vice is not so discriminating. Like a gangrene it ate deeper and deeper into the social body spreading from weak tissue to sound till the very future of the Chinese race was at stake. Now, liquor is to us what opium is to the yellow man. If our public opinion and laws had been so long inert with respect to alcohol as China has been with respect to opium, we might have suf- GRAPPLE WITH THE OPIUM EVIL 173 fered quite as severely as have the Chinese. The lesson from the Orient is that when society real- izes a destructive private habit is eating into its vitals, the question to consider is not whether to attack that habit, but howl CHAPTER VII UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA A FEW years ago there was a great rising in Kansuh, the northwest province. The Mohammedan rebels closed in on the capital, Lan- chow, slaughtering whom they met. The terrified countrymen fled for life to its protecting walls, but the women, on account of their poor bound feet, fell behind and, failing to arrive before the gates shut, were butchered at the very threshold. While the shrieking women beat despairingly upon the iron-bound doors as they saw their blood- thirsty pursuers drawing near, hundreds of an- guished husbands who had outrun their crippled wives knelt before the English missionary and begged him to urge the Governor to open the gates and let the late-comers in. The missionary ex- plained how this would let the cutthroats in too, and added, "You would have your wives small- footed, wouldn't you? Well, this is your punish- ment. ' ' That prince of diplomats, Minister Wu, used to stir his American audiences with the remark, "Yes, we bind our women's feet; but you bind your women's waists. Which is the worse?" And we would look guiltily at one another and say, "Now, there is something in that." The fact is, 174 UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 175 that with us tight lacing affects only the one in ten who would be fashionable ; while in China foot- binding bore on nine out of ten. And tight lacing is self-imposed ; while foot-binding is a mutilation forced on helpless children. The Hakka women of southern Kuangtung do not bind their feet. In Canton, only the daughters of the well-to-do follow the custom and it was five days ere I saw a bound foot. You can go thence up the West Eiver five hundred miles and never see a woman hobble. In the extreme North of China again, the Manchu women leave the foot natural and this, perhaps, is why they are so big, healthy and comely. In the rest of the Empire, foot- binding has been not the folly of the idle, nor the fad of the fashionable, but a custom that bore upon all classes, poor and rich alike. At Kalgan on the Mongolian frontier the field women work kneel- ing, with great pads over the knees to protect them from the damp soil. In three districts in Kansuh, women are still crawling about their houses upon their knees, reduced to the locomotion of brutes to please the perverted taste of men ! In Shansi and Shensi, I saw the women wielding the sickle, not stooping — that would hurt their poor feet too much — but sitting, and hitching themselves along as they reaped. The women had to be carried to the wheat field on wheelbarrow or cart, and their helplessness is such that most of them never in their lives get a mile away from the house to which they were taken as brides. In the course of the morning we would meet 176 THE CHANGING CHINESE perhaps a thousand men, but not three women. They cannot get from town to town unless car- ried. They hobble about their village a little, steadying themselves by a hand on the house-walls, or leaning on a staff. They move stiff -kneed like one on stilts. In our walk there is a point in the stride when the weight of the body comes upon the ball of the foot and the toes, and at this mo- ment the other leg is bent and swings forward. But in their case, the front part of the foot being useless, the other foot is brought forward sooner, and hence little knee action is necessary. This is why the woman seems tottering on pegs. This, too, is why the muscles of the' calf never develop, from the knee down the legs are broomsticks, and there are folds of superfluous skin. They tell us these tiny deformed feet appeal to the aesthetic in man. I doubt it. Take the poor mountaineer of western Shensi. Are we to sup- pose that this frowy dweller in a cave in the loess, this sloven denizen of a thatched hut with dirt floor, smoke-blackened and cobweb-festooned walls, a tattered paper window, a mud kang under a verminous mat and a couple of stools, where the pig and the dog dispute with the fowls the crumbs brushed from the master's grimy table — are we to suppose that this unlettered hind is so sensitive to beauty that at the cost of fighting the battle for existence with a crippled partner at his side, he insists on having a wife who, below the coarse garment of an Indian squaw, exhibits the ' 'golden lily" of a four-inch foot! UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 177 Is it any wonder that, crippled, crushed by con- ventional restrictions and regarded with contempt, such a woman shows none of the home-making in- stinct that in America brightens even the log hut of the mountain backwoodsman with crazy quilts, rag carpets, tidies and old newspapers scissored into ornamental patterns and pasted around the clock shelf or over the windows? One notes no effort to adorn, no bit of white or color, no sign of "woman's hand." There is not even a fam- ily meal, but each fills his bowl from the rice bucket and lounges about eating when he pleases. Man has confined the woman so closely to the home that she knows not how to make a "home." The Chinese have a saying, "For each pair of bound feet there has been shed a tubful of tears." Very likely, since the bandaging begins between the fifth and the seventh years, and, after three years of misery, the front part of the foot and the heel ought to be so forced together that a dol- lar will stick in the cleft. Says Mrs. Little, who fifteen years ago founded the T'ien Tau Hui (Natural Foot Society) : "During these three years the girlhood of China presents a most mel- ancholy spectacle. Instead of a hop, skip, and a jump, with rosy cheeks like the little girls of Eng- land, the poor little things are leaning heavily on a stick somewhat taller than themselves, or car- ried on a man's back, or sitting, sadly crying. They have great black lines under their eyes, and a special curious paleness that I have never seen except in connection with foot-binding. Their 178 THE CHANGING CHINESE mothers mostly sleep with a big stick by the bed- side, with which to get up and beat the little girl should she disturb the household by her wails; but not uncommonly she is put to sleep in an out- house. The only relief she gets is either from opium or from hanging her feet over the edge of her wooden bedstead so as to stop the circulation. They say one girl in ten dies from the process ; but, worse yet, a descendant of Confucius tells me that in Shansi girl babies are sometimes killed • at birth precisely because foot-binding so harrows up the feelings of the parents ! No wonder that on account of exaggerated foot-binding the women there are "extra dirty and extra lazy." They pass their lives on the hang, take no exercise and never get fresh air or a change of scene save on a rare festival day when the well-to-do are driven out in a springless Peking cart. One motive only induces a mother to impose such suffering on her little daughter — the fear of her not winning a husband. Until lately only prostitutes and slaves had natural feet, and a girl with such feet stood no better chance of mar- riage than a hunchback. A bridegroom finding that his bride had normal feet when he expected "golden lilies" would be justified by public opin- ion in returning the girl to her parents. But not even the bridegrooms are chiefly to blame. If Jack chose his Jill there would be some chance for the natural-foot girl. Many things enter into sex charm and young men would never have become so conventionalized but that a cherry lip, a roguish UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 179 eye, or a quick wit might have offset the handicap of a natural foot. But Chinese matches are made entirely by parents, so, in the final analysis, this terrible cross — the heaviest that has ever been laid on woman in a state of civilization — has been laid on the girlhood of China by the denatured taste of middle-aged fathers, each bound that his son shall have as modish a wife as the next one ! Thanks to foreign influence, thoughtful men be- came aroused to the evils of the custom and a few years ago an edict of the Empress Dowager commanded the people to abandon it. The mis- sionaries, who used to be tender of native cus- toms, have stiffened their attitude. They preach against it, denounce it in their Bible classes, and some even refuse membership to the woman who presents herself at the altar with bound feet. Nowadays the woman independent enough to turn Christian generally has the courage to unbind. In most mission schools no bound-foot girl is ad- mitted. Others admit them, but the feeling runs so high among the pupils that soon every girl who is not hindered by a conservative relative unbinds. One such school invited the officials and gentry to its closing exercises, consisting of marching, calisthenics and choruses by the pupils. Two of the little girls had bound feet. The contrast be- tween their pathetic helplessness and the lithe grace of the pretty rosy-cheeked girls who wheeled, turned, and tripped their way through the mazes was so impressive that on the spot the mandarin declared, "Foot-binding must go." Within five 180 THE CHANGING CHINESE days the gentry — so as not to be beholden to the missionaries — opened a girl's school of their own. Last year the government ordered that no foot-bound girl be received into any of its schools. The npper classes seethe with rebellion against the senseless custom. Progressive ladies throw away bandages, massage their feet with oil, and vie with one another in recovering the natural foot. Think of a group of Chinese women eagerly comparing feet to see whose are larg- est! In China innovators must face insult and abuse. A girl with natural feet venturing on the streets of Wanhsien on the upper Yangtse had her clothes nearly torn from her back. Even the wives of mandarins make ready stock- ings and shoes but put off unbinding until they can find other ladies who will join them. So, for mutual support, the society people in a town fre- quently unite in a "Natural Foot Society" and pledge themselves to unbind and not to bind their daughters' feet. To brighten the matrimonial prospects of such girls, fathers sometimes pledge one another not to betroth their sons to girls with squeezed feet. These local societies enlist influ- ential persons, import neat patterns of Western ladies' shoes, hold meetings, circulate tracts, and encourage officials to make a public stand. The T'ien Tau Hui, which is now run by the Chinese, circulates upwards of thirty pieces of literature, edicts, proclamations, placards, poems, folders; some in local dialect, some in Mandarin, some in "Wenli, the language of scholars; written by offi- UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 181 cials, by missionaries, by physicians and by na- tive reformers. Eoentgen-ray illustrations of the bound foot and the natural foot, portrayal of the sufferings from bandaging, description of the in- jury to the general health, arguments showing the loss in woman's practical usefulness, com- parison of foot-binding to the mutilations of sav- age tribes — all manner of appeals are made. As ulceration, gangrene and death are tragic inci- dents of the practice, the "anti" movement de- velops warmth and emotion. There are poems on the " sorrows of foot-binding" which move peo- ple to tears, and one of these has been set to music and is sung with great effect. Speaking broadly, the reform has not reached farther than the cities and the higher classes. Much of the open country is not yet aware there is such a movement. The poor fear ridicule and, besides, they hope to get a better bride-price for their girls. "Where child-betrothal prevails the parents of a girl feel they have no right to dis- appoint the expectations of the boy's family. Thus people are tied together and each hesitates to follow his common sense. One Fokien village petitioned the Viceroy to command them to unbind their daughters' feet. All disapproved of the cruel custom but no one had the courage to lead the way. Chinese from the big coast ports, where West- ern influence is ascendant, will tell you in good faith that foot-binding has nearly died out. The fact is the release of the overwhelming majority 182 THE CHANGING CHINESE of its victims is yet to come. Doctor Morrison, China correspondent of the London Times and a recognized authority, after traversing the central provinces of the Empire not long ago recorded it as his deliberate opinion that 95 per cent, of the females of the Empire above the age of eight are still mutilated. I think his estimate too high, but I feel sure that three-fourths of them are still so bound. It is safe to say that at the present mo- ment there are in China seventy million pairs of deformed, aching, and unsightly feet — the sac- rifice exacted of its womanhood by a depraved masculine taste. The wiser anticipate that it will be more than a generation ere the custom dies out. Japan is in the forty-third year of its Era of En- lightenment ; yet outside the cities you meet great numbers of women who at marriage followed the old custom of staining their teeth black in token they have forever renounced the thought of at- tracting the other sex. But cotton bandages are not the only bonds on the women of China. On a sultry July morning after passing the sedan chairs of an official and his wife I meet a coolie carrying two little cloth-covered boxes bal- anced on the bamboo across his shoulder. In each is a child of five or six. The boy's box has a tiny open window that allows him to get air and see what is passing; but the window of the other box is screened. His little sister has to endure the heat and the dark because she is a female and propriety commands it. Shut away from light UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 183 and knowledge — how symbolic of the lot of the sex in China! If in passing a Shensi shop one looks for a mo- ment at a woman who is not a grandmother, she turns hastily and slips back into the gloom of the women's apartment. To endure the glance of a man is immodest. Towards the close of a stifling day the village women come out of their houses and sit on a mat in front sewing and enjoying the coolness. If one of them sees a foreigner coming she scurries into the house as a frighted quail ducks and dodges into the stubble. Even girls of nine shrink away into the interior of the house if your eye lights on them. "When the harvest is in full swing every hand is needed and by dawn mothers and grandmothers, tads and tots, pile into a cart and are off with the men folks to the field. But never a female of from ten to twenty-five is to be seen, and one might suppose they had all been carried off by a plague. On the occasion of a special church service for old people, the hospitable wife of a college presi- dent in Poochow innocently plans to serve the vis- itors tea at her house, the men in one room, the women in another. But it appears that the gath- ering of these aged people under one roof, al- though in different rooms, clashes with Chinese notions of propriety. So far have they carried the estrangement of the sexes. A Hakka tells me that among his people the etiquette in the country districts forbids husband and wife to be seen talking together. Thus a 184 THE CHANGING CHINESE young man and his wife meet in an empty lane and, supposing themselves unobserved, he asks her for the key of the garden gate. She throws it on the ground without looking at him and, once indoors, rates him roundly for speaking to her in public. ' ' Suppose, ' ' she says, l ' someone had seen us!" A woman never thinks of shaking hands with a man. If a gentleman wishes to give a lady a fan, he does not hand it to her lest their hands touchy but places it beside her. This sort of thing was made so much of that about the time of Aris- totle a local prude asked Mencius, "If one's sister- in-law is drowning, ought she to be drawn out with the hand?" To which the sage sensibly re- plied, "It is wolfish not to draw out a drowning sister-in-law. ' ' Brothers and sisters are separated at eight or ten years of age and thenceforth associate only under formal conditions. In Chinese literature nothing is suggestive save the love-songs — this because the canons of propriety never gave lati- tude for courting and love making, so they were scandalous from the first. One never sees a du- bious photograph of a Chinese woman, even of a Magdalen. Our illustrated corset and underwear advertisements shock the Chinese, and no lady missionary shows them the photograph of a sister or friend taken in decollete. What notions of our modesty they gather from our undraped statuary, paintings of the nude, theatrical posters, and bal- lets, may be imagined. a o c3 O of O &0 o u 'o PI » Itll i- ■ ■ " ■ * 'C^S§Sd|^E . One of the south gates into the Tartar city, Peking Temple of Five Hundred Genii, Canton UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 193 by their smallness and frailness. They were of a stature with American girls of fourteen or fifteen. They seemed hardly larger than the women of Japan, though their men folk are much bigger than the Japanese men. It is not clear whether this diminutiveness is due to a prefer- ence for the little operating through many gener- ations, or to foot-binding, confinement, and lack of exercise during the growing period. In the Chinese family male predominance is mitigated by the sanctity of age. After the wife becomes the mother of a boy, her status rises and she is the envy of the women of India and Persia. Filial piety is owed as much to the mother as to the father. The mother, and still more the grand- mother, is nearly co-equal with her spouse in au- thority over her children. The detestable Ori- ental doctrine of the "Three Obediences," that woman is never to be free, but must pass her life under the tutelage, first of father, then of hus- band, and finally of son — does not hold in its last clause for the daughters of Han. As for the girl, bride, and wife, however, con- ventionality binds their hearts quite as cruelly as their feet. Because the married daughter with her children is lost to her parents and or- dinarily cannot care for them in their old age, from a tenth to a twentieth of the girl-babies — this on Chinese authority — are abandoned or done away with from economic reasons; but a boy-baby, never. Then, to escape the bother of raising a girl for some other family's benefit, it 194 THE CHANGING CHINESE is quite common for the poor to give up their fe- male children to parents who want to rear wives for their sons. There are whole districts where never more than one daughter in a family is reared by her parents. This early separation of a girl from her natural parents is excused on the ground that it spares the shock of separa- tion when she marries! The girl thus reared in the future bridegroom's family is likely to be treated as a drudge and naturally, from the first,- she is subjected to the whims of her in- tended. I heard of a boy of six saying to the nurse-girl who had neglected his intended, aged two, "Why don't you look after my wife better?" In case the boy dies, the "widowed" girl's hand is disposed of by his parents and in the match little is considered save the bride-price. Even when the girl is reared at home, she is liable to be betrothed at an early age, and this grotesque practice is fraught with the most sin- ister possibilities. In one case, the son of a na- tive presiding elder was betrothed when a child to a little girl. At the proper age they were mar- ried, and then it was found that the bride was an idiot, her mental growth having been arrested by an attack of scarlet fever years before. After a year the son could stand it no longer and the girl was sent back to her parents. The action was denounced as a breach of custom and the elder had to stand a church trial. He was found guilty, every Chinese voting against him and every missionary for him! Again, the little UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 195 daughter of a farmer was betrothed to the son of a chair coolie. She showed talent, studied, rose in the schools, was helped through college, took a medical course and became a successful physician. Nevertheless, when the time came, she was obliged by inexorable custom to bow to the arrangement made for her in infancy and ruin her life by marrying a dolt too worthless to hold even a chair-bearer's job. There is pathos in the rising protest of the Chi- nese girl against early betrothal. She does not resent being yoked for life to a man she has never seen. But she does beg of her parents a hus- band who is fit for her now and a family-in-law that is now equal in social standing to her own, instead of being handed about in pursuance of a bargain entered into years before when no one could tell what her intended or his family might become. At best the maiden's marriage is arranged for her with a young man eligible so far as the pro- fessional match-maker can be trusted; and there is a proverb, "Ten match-makers, eleven liars." The horoscopes of the young people are com- pared, a card bearing the name and age of the girl lies for three days in front of the suitor's ancestral tablets, and if no ill omen appears she is taken. Not until the wedding does either know the other's name or look upon the other's face. No wooing, no love-making, no romance. Are they happy? Some observers — Germans and English, mark you, not American — judge that 196 t THE CHANGING CHINESE such matches turn out as well as our own matings of free choice. They argue from the general domestic peace, and from the distress some hus- bands show when their wives are about to un- dergo a hospital operation. At such a crisis the hidden affection meets the eye. So they infer that the adaptability of the sexes in heart matters, when their expectations have not been keyed high, is greater than we have supposed. Now, it must be acknowledged that how happy we can be in our lot depends much on our notion of hap- piness. Miss Plumblossom has never included romantic love, tenderness and chivalry in her idea of a good husband; and so, provided he doesn't beat her and she has children upon whom she can lavish the pent-up wealth of her affection, she may find life tolerable. Still, forcing the natural feelings is a danger- ous business. The self-sacrifice and self-efface- ment that preserves domestic harmony in China is borne chiefly by the wives. The constant ef- fort at self-control and the ruthless repression of the feelings cost something. "Witness the nu- merous suicides of young wives. They throw themselves into wells or canals, or swallow raw opium. When the opium is harvested, there is a crop of female suicides. Insanity is distress- ingly frequent among women. The prevalence of neurasthenia among ladies refutes the saying that the Chinese have no nerves. Doctors as- sert there is much heart lesion among women owing to emotional stress and sorrowing. The UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 197 faces of wives are stamped with pain, patience and gentle resignation rather than happiness. Chinese women tell me the confidences made to them and their friends betray widespread unhap- piness. The custom of "crying one's wrongs" is significant. When a woman simply cannot stand it any longer, she proclaims her woes to the world. A thousand miles up the Yangtse I saw the wife of a tea-house keeper stand on the bank and yell to hundreds of grinning sampan people her opinion of the man. Hurrying through a hamlet late at night we came upon a solitary woman ululating her grievances to high heaven. Lights were out and all were asleep but she stood, lonely and pathetic, in the dark- ness repeating her cry, and took no notice of us by-passers. The disposal of superfluous female infants is a great strain on the mothers. In the presence of a lady missionary whom they supposed ignorant of their dialect a number of country-women fell to confessing the number of girl babies they had made away with. Finally she could contain her- self no longer and cried, "Oh, how could you be so cruel !" The women turned on her with al- most savage vehemence. "Do you think we didn't care? Would we do it if we didn't know the new one would take the rice out of the mouths of the others?" "Since then," the lady added, "I appreciate how infanticide is forced on par- ents by economic pressure." For the Chinese bride her mother-in-law is no 198 THE CHANGING CHINESE joking matter. At sixteen or seventeen the girl becomes virtually the slave of this woman, and her husband dares not utter a word on her be- half. When the baby comes, it is not hers to rear; it is to be brought up just as her husband's mother says. The educated Christian girl is loath to marry into a heathen family for fear of having to misrear or lose her children under the- dictate of an ignorant and superstitious mother- in-law. The situation is really impossible and breeds dark tragedies. A woman doctor tells of being summoned in haste by a frantic husband and finding the young wife in travail with her mother-in-law sitting on her. The girl was roll- ing her eyes, and if the harridan had not been pulled off she would have died in a few minutes. Still, there are checks on a harsh mother-in-law. If the wife's family is strong, they can make her much trouble. Then the threat of suicide is potent, for one who commits suicide on your ac- count can haunt you. Besides it makes a great scandal. A friend of mine saw a woman whose daughter-in-law had killed herself on her account beat the dead girl's face in impotent rage at be- ing thus foiled and brought to shame. In the West suicides are three or four times as frequent among men as among women, part of the difference answering no doubt to a real difference in the psychology of the sexes. That among the Chinese suicide is five or ten times as frequent among females as among males throws a piercing ray of light on the happiness UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 201 of women in a man-made world. Most of these are young married women and young widows. The former take their lives because they are un- happy, the latter usually because they think it the fitting thing to do. (For, mark you, it is not yet two centuries since it was decreed that offi- cial honors were no longer to be conferred upon widows who slew themselves at their husband's death.) Now, the bonds that drive the brides to desperation and the ideas of wifely propriety that impel young widows to make away with themselves originated in the minds of men and have never been molded by so much as a feather's touch by the sex they affect. This great pre- ponderance of female suicide is a grim com- mentary on the theory that the happiness of women lies in their guardianship by the other sex. Nothing could be plainer than that woman's lot in China is not of her own fashioning, but has been shaped by male tastes and prejudices, with- out regard to what the women themselves think about it. The men have determined woman's sphere as well as man's. The ancient sages — all men — molded the institutions that bear upon women, and it is male comment, not really pub- lic opinion, that enforces the conventionalities that crush her. By wit, will, or worth, the in- dividual woman may slip from under the thumb of the individual man — there are many such cases — but never could the sex free itself from the domination of the male sex. The men had all the artillery — the time-hallowed teachings and 202 THE CHANGING CHINESE institutions, — and all the small arms — current opinion and comment. Cribbed and confined, the women were without schooling, locomotion, ac- quaintance, conversation, stimulus, contact with affairs, access to ideas, or opportunity to work out their own point of view. It is not that the individual man selfishly rules the woman. It is not even that the one sex has de- liberately brought the other into subjection. It is rather that men, regarding themselves as the "Yang" principle of the species, and perfectly sure * of their own superiority in wisdom and virtue, have settled what is fit and proper, not only for themselves, but for women too. It all came out beautifully in a conversation I had with a Chinese gentleman who is promoting a revival of Confucianism. I admitted that the Chinese have better ideas than we as to what children owe their parents. "Still," I added, "you '11 admit, we have juster ideas as to the treatment of women." "Not at all," he replied. "The place Confucianism assigns to women is more reasonable than that of the Christian West. ' ' "But why should women be so subordinated?" "Because women are very hard to control. You can never tell what they will be up to. At the bottom of every trouble, there is a woman." "Isn't that due," I asked, "to your depriving women of the educational opportunities which they once enjoyed?" "No, it was precisely experience of the dif- ficulty of keeping women under control when UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 203 they are educated that led our forefathers to les- sen their schooling. ' ' "Then you would shut girls out of school ?" "No, I wouldn't go so far," he replied. "Let them be taught to read and write. ' ' "Nothing more?" "Possibly. But it should be very different from the education given to boys. ' ' "For example?" "Why, teach the girl household arts and ethics so she will know her duties as daughter, wife and mother. ' ' "Would you teach her her rights as well as her duties?" I insinuated. "No, no. That is quite unnecessary." My frank Confucian went on to deplore that nowadays in Hong Kong Chinese ladies come and go in the streets "just like harlots." " Surely," I protested, "such freedom makes them happier and that is something." "No, the unity of the family should be put above individual happiness, and that unity is found in the unop- posed will of the husband." How Roman it all is — just the views that Livy puts in the mouth of Cato the Elder I 1 Man, the i" Recollect all the institutions respecting the sex, by which our forefathers restrained them and subjected them to their hus- bands; and yet, even with the help of all these restrictions, they can scarcely be kept within bounds. If, then, you suffer them to throw these off one by one, to tear them all asunder, and, at last, to be set on an equal footing with yourselves, can you imagine that they will be any longer tolerable? Suffer them once to arrive at an equality with you, and they will from that moment become your superiors." 204 THE CHANGING CHINESE main stem of the race, woman, a "side issue," as Prentice put it. When, a couple of years ago, the prefect proposed a school for girls at Feng- siangfu, an old scholar exclaimed "Open a girls' school ! "When women take to reading, what will there be for the men to do f ' ' Of course, hearing men harp on it so much, Chinese women come to believe they are stupid and need control. Still, some find their way to a sense of grievance, even when no foreigner has put into their heads the idea of "rights." 'Some years ago nine Cantonese maidens drowned themselves together one night in the Pearl River rather than accept the lot of the wife. In three districts in central Kuangtung, where a girl can always get work at silk-winding, thou- sands of girls have formed themselves into anti- matrimonial associations, the members of which refuse to live with the husband more than the customary three days. Then they take advantage of their legal right "to visit mother" and never return save on certain days or after a term of years. If the parents attempt to restore the run- away bride to her husband she drowns herself or takes opium ; so parents and magistrates have had to let the girls have their way. By presenting herself in her husband's home on certain festival days the bride keeps her wifely status, and if her spouse takes to himself a more tractable mate, she becomes the "number one" wife, and the mis- tress of the other. It is a striking illustration of what women can UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 205 do when they have a chance at self-support. In general, however, it is foreign influence rather than industrial opportunity that is emancipating the women. Christianity is doing its share. The reading of the New Testament exalts women in their own eyes and in the eyes of others. The radiant peace and uplift of soul I have seen on some Christian faces reveal what a moral treasure the Chinese have kept locked up all these cen- turies. I do not wonder that villagers took a certain saintly Bible woman to be ' ' some relative of God." The missionary home is a silent but telling object lesson. After a woman missionary had been talking to a group of women about Heaven, one of them said, "It would be heaven enough for me to have my husband walk beside me on the street as yours does with you." The converts are taught to cherish their daughter and to give her schooling. They are forbidden to override her will in marriage and are urged to inquire into the young man's disposition and to consider whether he can make her happy. The girl is to see him, or at least hear all about him, and may reject him without incurring reproach. As in foot-unbinding, so in mind-unbinding, the missionaries have been pioneers. The early pupils of their schools are now grandmothers, while the first class of non-mission girls was graduated only three years ago. At first, to be sure, they administered knowledge in homeopathic doses. In the early years of one school the girls 206 THE CHANGING CHINESE were taught to read, but not to write, lest they pen notes to the boys ! In the same school they taught just Bible, and the girls memorized great quantities. The pupils could repeat you Genesis by the hour, skipping from Ch. IX to Ch. XVII, if you liked, and taking up the thread again with perfect readiness. Twenty years ago the course was enriched by natural theology, Church history, arithmetic, geography and music. Five years ago English and history were added. In another school — British — I found the girls feasting from the following menu: "Forenoon — New Testa- ment, text with exposition. Afternoon — Old Testament history." The missionaries feel the ground swell of the great "woman's movement" at home and their ideas are continually broadening. Granted they have taught the girls obedience and are proud when parents report that their daughter from the mission school is the most dutiful of their children. But every lady principal of a mission school is at heart a sworn enemy of the Chinese subjection of women. That is not her role, of course, and she will fence with you at first; but finally, if you seem trustworthy, she will own up. She does not egg the girls on to assert this or that right, but she strives to build up in them a personality that will not accept the old status. One doctor in charge of a women's medical school exhorts her young women to shun marriage on the present terms. When a mission-school girl horrifies her family by refusing to abide by a child-betrothal, No chance for them Joss house, Foochow, and Baby Tower where girl infants are thrown when not wanted UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 209 her teachers, though never interfering, give her "moral support." Education, of course, delays marriage. Ten years ago, most of the girls entered the high school betrothed, but now they are teasing their parents to give them an education first, and many girls of nineteen or twenty are not yet engaged. One begins even to meet the Chinese school-mis- tress, who teaches awhile before marrying. "With the establishing of numerous schools for girls by the Chinese themselves within the last five years, there has come a great demand for educated Chinese women, and the graduates of the mission schools are sought as teachers, matrons, and even principals. Fathers who turned a deaf ear to their daughter's plea for an education are relent- ing now that they hear of the fine salaries educated young women are bringing to their parents. The taste for the prettyfied, insipid doll-wife is going out wherever the other type is known. The college young man prefers an educated wife and in the matrimonial market the girls with schooling go off like hot cakes. The lady principal, who used to receive such inquiries only from parents, is now frequently called upon by very polite young men who inquire minutely into the scholarship and accomplishments of this or that pupil. Can she sing 1 ? Can she play the piano? Does she know English? Formerly the inquirer mentioned the girl as "the daughter of So-and-So"; now he speaks of her as ' ' Miss So-and-So. ' ' The smitten never addresses himself directly to the charmer, 210 THE CHANGING CHINESE but his parents negotiate with her parents and presently the wedding cards are out. Inch by inch the old customs are yielding. Courtship is unheard of ; but here and there young people converse under parental eyes. Even when they may not talk together, they are permitted to see each other across a room; or photographs are exchanged. In any case, the young people in- sist on knowing what kind of a parti is proposed for them. The rearing marriage and the child- betrothal have vanished from enlightened circles. Strange to relate, the high school girls do not greatly object to a match arranged for them. What they are wildly athirst for is not Romance so much as Freedom. Freedom from parents, from husband, from mother-in-law, from strang- ling conventionalities. They hear of the larger life open to their sisters of the West and they wildly beat their tender wings against the gilded wires of their cage. The new opportunities alter the relation of mother to daughter. The mother is old-fashioned and no mentor for Angelina. As an educated young lady put it, ' * Really, it is the daughter who must act the chaperone. Mother's ideas of pro- priety and conversation are so different from those of the new conditions that I am having con- tinually to make suggestions to her." In Tientsin, Hong Kong and Shanghai, girls of the well-to-do classes imagine that "Western style" means pure freedom, and do not realize the unspoken restraints our young people are UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 211 under. These " liberty girls," as they are called, think they must settle their heart affairs by them- selves, quite unaware how often parental guid- ance prevents our daughters making a mistake. Sometimes, indeed, to get any freedom at all in heart matters, the girl has to elope, and naturally such matches rarely turn out well. One school- girl, in order to avoid having a distasteful mar- riage forced upon her, ran off to Japan with two students and from there wrote her parents that she had n't yet made up her mind which she loved best and would marry ! Towards spring the water of a frost-bound Northern lake becomes so deoxygenated that if a hole is cut in the ice the fishes press so frantically to the life-giving air that some are pushed out on to the ice. Nevertheless, oxygen is good for fish. Just so, when foreign example breaks a hole in the rigid custom that confines Chinese woman- hood, the eager rush of young women toward the life-giving liberty and knowledge may leave some of them clear outside their native element. Nevertheless, liberty and knowledge are good for young women. The schools under missionary control, however, meet the current need better than the govern- ment schools. A noble Chinese woman physician, a graduate of the University of Michigan, tells me that at their own girls ' schools the girls learn license rather than liberty. She makes the point that only a Christian education gives the girls the moral restraints that are necessary if they are to 212 THE CHANGING CHINESE be free from the old tutelage. She is right. It is a trying world the educated Chinese girl enters, for the young men are far from ready to appre- ciate her or show her the delicacy and chivalry that environ our American girls. "How long will it be," I asked a Manchu lady familiar with life East and West, "before your mothers will let their daughters go buggy-riding of an evening with your college boys?" Like a flash came the an- swer, l ' A hundred years ! ' ' Among the thoughtful the conviction spreads that China can never be great while the mothers of each generation are left ignorant and uncared for. They are coming to realize the role of the mother in molding the character of her sons. China needs, above all, men, of a high unwaver- ing integrity, and she will not grow them while the impressible boyhood years are passed in the company of an unschooled, narrow-minded, de- spised, neglected woman. Certain missionaries overlooked, at first, the strategic position of the mother, and were presently horrified to find the children of Christian men reverting to heathenism because their mothers had been left untaught ! We know that the mothers of Confucius and Mencius had a great share in forming the charac- ter of their illustrious sons, and it is significant that the Chinese have brought forth not one great man since they took to binding the feet and the minds of their daughters. All who work with the women of the yellow race are enthu- siastic over their possibilities. But no testi- One of two hundred day schools organized by a Foochow missionary A bride's canopy, Peking UNBINDING THE WOMEN OF CHINA 215 monials are needed. Their faces are full of character — as fine as the faces of women any- where. All the railroads that may be built, all the mines that may be opened, all the trade that may be fostered, cannot add half as much to the happiness of the Chinese people as the cultiva- tion of the greatest of their " undeveloped re- sources ' ' — their womanhood. CHAPTER IX CHEISTIANITY IN CHINA IT was vesper service at the Lama temple in Peking. A score of young priests, with shaven polls, sat on low benches amid the shining altars, images, and candelabra, while the sweet incense wreathed and rose before the great golden Buddha. Cross-legged on a dais, sat the leader, a wrinkled Thibetan, arrayed in gorgeous vest- ments of gold brocade. Before each cantor lay a pile of long parchment slips, containing the even- ing liturgy in Thibetan characters. The words of the service were chanted rapidly in unison, in a deep, musical tone, and the effect was like the droning of bees from a thousand hives. Ever and anon came bursts of wild clangor that went through one like a knife; cymbals would clash, drums would throb, and horns of fantastic Chaldean shape would snarl. It was a tapestry, — for the ear, not for the eye, — weird arabesques of instrumental sound thrown against a back- ground of deep droning. Over against these set the achievements of a certain Swedish-American missionary I found in a district town in the most opium-ridden and foot- bound province of China. After eight years of work he has gathered a band of two hundred 216 CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 217 Chinese Christians, most of them men and from the country. Thirty are school-teachers, of whom twelve have the first degree. Many of his members are prominent people, though none are officials. The mandarins are very friendly, but he is slow to cultivate intimacy with them, lest his converts who have lawsuits should im- portune him for his " influence." He allows none of his flock to disobey the Anti-Opium Edict, and lately he cast out twenty members for grow- ing poppy. Recently he had a revival in his church, and many openly confessed their sins and made reparation. There is nothing flabby about the Christianity that prompts men to lay bare murder and robbery. Being a follower of Luther, he does not require his flock to keep the Sabbath in the Puritan sense. He maintains an opium refuge, where in the winter one hundred and sixteen smokers were treated from a month to six weeks, and most were permanently cured. There is a school where thirty girls follow a nine- years course. At his instigation, a "natural- foot" society was formed among the leading Chinese, and two hundred non-Christian girls and women have unbound their feet. Who will deny that this is "religion pure and undefiled'"? The religious plane of the Chinese will hardly command the admiration of any Occidental, how- ever catholic his sympathy. The followers of Confucius, it is true, promulgate a pure and lofty morality, but Confucianism is not really a religion at all, but an ethical system, and has, 218 THE CHANGING CHINESE moreover, little authority outside the learned clan. Taoism, starting as mysticism, has degen- erated into a hotch-potch of the crudest and tawdriest superstitions. As for the Buddhism of China, let no one look to find in it the golden thoughts of the Great Teacher or even the spir- itual elevation of the Buddhism one finds to-day in Burma and Japan. To the spirit of the Sutras it is about as foreign as the Coptic church of Abyssinia is to the spirit of the Gospels. Not one„ priest in a hundred has any glimmering of the Eight-fold Path. The nunneries have a very bad name. Only now and then in the monaster- ies does one come upon reminiscences of the great traditions of the faith. To the ranging eye, the fruits brought forth by the religions of China appear to be number- less temples, dingy and neglected; countless dusty idols portraying hideous deities in violent attitudes expressive of the worst passions; an army of ignorant priests, as skeptical as Koman augurs, engaged in divining, exorcising, and furnishing funeral ceremonies for gain; and a laity superstitious and irreverent, given to per- functory kotowing and prayer prompted by the most practical motives. The passing traveler notes sacred trees with bits of red cloth flutter- ing from the twigs; brick screens built just in- side gateways and doorways to check the invisi- ble, rushing demons of the air; wayside shrines ever redolent with lighted joss-sticks left for good luck by passing coolies; cliffs carved into CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 219 hundreds of niches, each sheltering the effigy of some god or saint; idols with faces repulsive from the sacrificial blood smeared on their lips; jutting boulders and fantastic rocks black- ened with incense smoke and stuck up with the feathers of sacrificed fowls; and house-boats protected at every point by a smoking joss-stick, with the bow red with the blood of the cock killed at the outset of the voyage. In a temple in Soochow one sees in a corner a great heap of broken idols, the massive frag- ments showing the sticks, straw, and mud out of which they were made. Thereby hangs a tale that might have been brought to Rome from Friesland in the eighth century. Not long ago a reforming official, observing that idols had be- come a ruinous infatuation among his people, drew a great crowd by announcing a duel to the death between himself and the idols. Putting one end of a rope about his own neck and the other about the neck of a big idol, he said, "If the idol is stronger than I am, I shall be stran- gled; but if I am the stronger, the idol will fall." Trusting to his bull neck, the mandarin pulled, the idols tumbled, and since then the spirit of St. Thomas is abroad in Soochow. At this moment the religious impact of the West upon China is delivered by fourteen hun- dred Roman Catholic missionaries and four thou- sand Protestant missionaries, of whom, how- ever, fully a thousand are wives, and therefore not always free to do full work. The Roman 220 THE CHANGING CHINESE Catholic work is three centuries old, and more than a million baptized Chinese are in its fold. The Protestant work is the growth of a century, and about half a million are within its churches, although its communicants do not exceed two hundred thousand. Most of what follows re- lates to Protestant missions, for the writer has had little opportunity to come into touch with the Eoman Catholic corps. To the untutored Chinamen the presence of the missionary is a puzzle. They simply cannot im- agine human beings exiling themselves from their native land for the love of men on the other side of the globe. So they frame sundry theories to explain the thing to themselves. One the- ory is that the missionaries are secret political agents bent on gaining an influence over the Chinese, and then swaying them to the advan- tage of their respective governments. Only of late have the natives come to realize that the strangers are not sent by their governments, but by religious groups. According to another the- ory, China is so excellent and renowned that the red-haired barbarians come to live there for the mere pleasure of it. As for their self-deny- ing works of benevolence, these are supposed to be prompted by the desire to acquire merit. Unlike the Mohammedan end of Asia, the Far East is not intense in its religious beliefs. The Chinese are Gallios in such matters, and their occasional mobbings of missionaries are not in the least outbreaks of fanatical intolerance. They tllf' IBS. *-! u High altar of a Buddhist temple of the Kushan Monastery Temple in a gorge, Kushan Monastery CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 223 are in part explosions of anti-foreign feeling generated in this most patient of peoples by opium wars, the enforced opium trade, the com- pulsory opening of ports, extra-territoriality, high-handed seizures of territory, and like buf- fets to national pride inflicted by the mailed fist of Western powers. The missionary has no part in these, but when the black thunder-clouds of hatred roll up, he, as the nearest foreigner, receives the lightning stroke. Other violences against him have been deliberately stirred up by the slanders set afloat among the credulous masses by the literary and official class, who fear lest the missionary introduce ideas which will make it harder to maintain the old system of governing and exploiting the common people. But for what is miscalled "forcing Christianity on China," — by which is meant requiring the intolerant Imperial Government to allow teach- ers of religion to travel, live, and work un- molested in all parts of the Empire, — the selfish statecraft of the rulers would have deprived the people for generations of what the missionaries bring them. As the Chinese come to know the strangers better, and to perceive the pure motives behind their gentle invasion, they discriminate more sharply between them and those aggressive white men who are in the Far East not to help China, but to make something out of her. The last five years have been marked by a rapidly growing entente cordiale between the missionaries and the 224 THE CHANGING CHINESE better elements in Chinese society. The assail- ants of opium and foot-binding gratefully own their debt to the strangers. One mandarin went circuit-riding through his district with the local missionary, both speaking for opium reform from the same platform. The friends of the new education realize how much China owes to the mission schools, which have long been turning out men fitted to communicate Western learning. Lately one often hears of high officials honoring the commencement exercises of such schools with their presence and words. One provincial assembly attended a church conference in a body, and its vice-president and secretary spoke fearlessly for their Christian faith. In the in- terior, where there are no traders to inspire dis- like for the white man, the missionary often finds the mandarin not only appreciative, but even sympathetic and friendly. Very striking is the contrast between the Eng- lish mission work and the American. The Eng- lish missionaries center their efforts largely on translating and evangelizing, while the Ameri- cans have done much in the medical and educa- tional fields as well. In the higher education their lead is almost a monopoly. Of fourteen Protestant mission "colleges" and "universi- ties," only one is maintained by the British; the rest are American or union. The English mis- sionary at the head of Shansi University de- clares: "British missionaries, with British con- servatism, have held too much to the idea that A wealthy Shansi family of foreig'iiizing tendencies Monks of Kushan Monastery CHEISTIANITY IN CHINA 227 their office is to evangelize and heal, not to en- lighten the mind. But the American has also applied himself directly to the root of China's pressing temporal need, and spent a hundred times as much money — nay, more — on education as British Missions have done." This difference betrays a profound contrast in social creed. Most of the British missionary societies, while solicitous for the eternal welfare of the Chinese, have no thought whatever of rais- ing him intellectually or socially. The Ameri- can societies, with their democratic faith in men, aspire to help the Chinese upward along all lines. One reason, perhaps, for the apathy of the Brit- ish, is the failure of university opportunities to Christianize the Hindu students in India, and the trouble that has been stirred up there by educated Hindus. But one also sees that the British simply do not believe in education as the Americans do. It is certain that the American missionaries, by their literary and educational labors, are do- ing far more to Christianize Chinese public opin- ion, laws, and institutions, than their equally learned and devoted English brethren. All groups, however, recognize how hopeless it is to convert the Chinese by missionary preaching. The West cannot send out men enough to evan- gelize a population so vast over a land so huge. Thirty or forty thousand workers would be needed. Then, too, the missionary rarely gains such mas- tery of the language that all barriers between 228 THE CHANGING CHINESE the Chinese mind and his vanish. On the other hand, the capacity and character of the yellow race is becoming apparent to all. So the mis- sionaries realize that their part is to man the needed colleges and theological schools and to supervise the work in the field, while the actual evangelization of China is to be carried on by the trained native, costing a sixth as much to main- tain as the foreign missionary. It is fortunate that, as this directive function comes to the fore, a type is coming into the field quite unlike the early missionary. These young men, most of them "student volunteers," have squarer shoulders, a harder grip, a keener eye, a terser speech, and a greater zest for outdoor sports. They are more careful to conserve health and " fitness." They pass fewer hours at their devotions, and keep more in touch with their time. They have broader intellectual in- terests, and through their social and athletic bent find points of sympathetic contact with the treaty-port people. In faith, self-devotion, and heroism there is nothing to choose between the old missionary and the new. Perhaps the former had a sublimer patience, a deeper humility. But the latter is better fitted to meet the new mood that is coming over the Chinese. He is not con- tent with inspiring a saving faith; he aims at an all-round transformation, — what he calls "making the Kingdom of God come in China," — and he is quite as likely to succeed as if he aimed at less. CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 229 What manly pith the work requires may he gleaned from the varied activities of a young missionary in Fokien whom I observed for three or four days last year. A successful life- insurance agent who gave up everything to obey the "call," he is now in charge of three districts, each with its presiding elder, a score of na- tive pastors, and perhaps thirty congregations. He preaches, holds conference, dedicates churches, examines candidates for the ministry, rebukes, encourages, and directs. He passes the long hours in his sedan chair making observa- tions on bird life which are gladly printed by the Smithsonian Institution. When a man-eating tiger terrifies the villagers, he takes a couple of days off, slays the beast, and gives it, stuffed, to the museum of his church college. Although ignorant of architecture, he has to supervise the construction of a big stone church to seat twenty- five hundred, ordering the tearing out of badly laid sections of wall and devising means of sup- porting a roof of forty-five feet span. With the money he secures from his friends he runs a school with five teachers that supports one hun- dred and fifty boys. The spacious compound, with its thirty thousand dollars' worth of build- ings and its nine-foot wall, is a bit of the twen- tieth century projected into the thirteenth. When a bullet is fired at midnight into a teach- er's room, he has to confer with the anxious mandarins and assure them that he will not com- plain to his consul if they will see that the 230 THE CHANGING CHINESE outrage is not repeated. Thus this cheery, masterful American goes about, speaking the dialect, judging, conferring, deciding, organizing, a real field-marshal of militant Christianity. The old taunt of "rice-Christian" still raises doubts as to the quality of the mission harvest. A Confucian gentleman will tell you that the genuine convert is greatly improved in charac- ter, but that most of the adherents are self-seek- ers, who impose on the missionaries. The lay critic points out that for his knowledge of the character and standing of the applicant the mis- sionary depends on his native evangelist, who may have his own ax to grind. On the other hand, it is a fact that the converts receive no material aid, but are expected to contribute un- til their church has become self-supporting. In the distributing of famine relief no discrimi- nation is made between believer and unbeliever. Still, there are worldly motives for turning Christian, and the seasoned missionaries make the inquirer wait long before baptizing him. They are all eager to see tokens of sincerity, and one whose most respected members had just laid bare their gross sins during a revival confessed that a load had been lifted from his heart. Per- haps the best proof that the missionaries are not garnering hypocrites is the fact that ten thou- sand Protestant and thirty thousand Eoman Catholic converts perished in the Boxer upris- ing. Many of these could have saved their lives CD O ~ a3 CD m o CO cS et-| 3 CD X =H o rd co £ CD ?-. +3 c ^ +2 to rO rt ft X X t3 O 0! ft -3 r] * pj OJJ &J0rd .3 CD X ^ CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 233 by trampling on a piece of paper bearing the character for " Jesus." It would be a gross error to assume that the missionary is intent solely on imparting a saving faith. With him doctrine figures by no means so prominently as with us or as in the earlier mis- sionary work. He aims to effect a profound and far-reaching transformation in the life of the convert. This implies a startling change in fundamental values. Practical in his religion, as in everything else, the ordinary Chinese re- gards his "joss" as a source of worldly benefit. From it he seeks restoration to health, good crops, success in the literary examinations, pros- perity in business, or official preferment. He is amazed at the offer of a religion that will prom- ise none of these things unless they are "best" for him, that guarantees in answer to prayer only spiritual blessings, such as patience, cour- age, and victory over temptation. A mockery it seems at first, and a paradox. But he notices that the Christians are serene of brow, and their meekness under persecution argues a hidden source of strength ; and presently it occurs to him, "What if this inner life should be, after all, the main thing?" With Christianity comes also a marked change in ideals. Undeveloped though they are, the Chinese, as a race, are not one whit behind us in capacity for idealism. St. Augustine, no doubt, found our heathen forefathers far less promis- 234 THE CHANGING CHINESE ing material. They are moved by charity, pu- rity, and forgiveness, just as we are. The read- ing of the Gospels stirs in them the same secret better self that it stirs in us. There are many to whom the Christ ideal appeals as a new and better life, and they embrace it for the sake of inward peace rather than because of the super- natural authority of Christianity. One who really enters into the spirit of the New Testament seems to experience a wonderful up- lift and happiness. It delivers him in a great degree from the fears that have haunted him — the fear of misfortune, the fear of disease, and, above all, the fear of death. Oriental life and thought offer but a cheerless outlook to the meditative soul, and to such a one the religion from the West offers a true vita nuova. To judge from the beatific expression on the faces of certain superior converts I have met, the Gos- pel means to them what the opening of the hatches of a captured slave-ship meant to the wretches pent up in its hold. Besides, the missionaries open more windows than one would think. The wards and sleeping rooms of the Asile de la Sainte Enfance at Hong Kong are kept wonderfully clean and neat. One old native woman recently admitted and lying at the point of death was being instructed by a Chinese pastor in Christian doctrine and was told of Heaven where everything is beautiful and she would be happy. "Why," she remonstrated, "should I want to go to Heaven? Can it be CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 235 finer than this? I am perfectly happy in this beautiful place and don't want to die and dwell in Heaven." Poor soul, after a lifetime of strug- gle with dirt and confusion her martyrized wom- an's instinct for order and cleanliness had at last found satisfaction! The break of the genuine convert with his past is far more abrupt than anything with which we are familiar. He turns his back on opium, gambling, and unchastity, the besetting sins of his fellows. He abandons cheating, lying, back- biting, quarreling, and filthy language, which are all too rife among the undisciplined common peo- ple. He shuns litigation, often the ruin of the villager. By withdrawing from the festivals in the ancestral hall and from the rites at the graves of his ancestors, he sunders himself from his clan and incurs persecution. Thus the con- verts become separatists, with the merits and defects of separatists. Cut off from the world and thrown on one another, they form a group apart, a body of Puritans that will one day be a precious nucleus of moral regeneration for China. The over-sanguine dream of a great ingather- ing in case Christianity, from being merely tolerated, should become one of the recognized religions of the empire, or even the official re- ligion. No doubt recognition would encourage many a promising youth to declare himself, who even now believes, but dreads handicap in his official career. The wiser missionaries, how- 236 THE CHANGING CHINESE ever, realize that adversity and persecution are a bracing atmosphere for the infant church, and spare it an influx of the worldly-minded, with whose Oriental wiliness and subtlety the mission- aries are not fitted to cope. This feeling is deepened by the fact that every strong popular drift toward Christianity that has set in in this or that district or province has been prompted by worldly motives. Again and again tidings have come of wonderful "mass move- ments" toward the church, which have raised high~ hopes of a sudden and wholesale conversion of the Chinese. But always it came out at last that the movement had been inspired by the hope of gaining missionary support in lawsuits or winning the approval of the mandarins or en- joying consular protection in times of trouble. In one district of Kiang-si, in 1901-02, a single enthusiastic missionary gathered in twenty thou- sand souls, and numerous self-supporting con- gregations arose. But presently the proselytes went to settling old scores with their Eoman Catholic enemies, and the new missionary sent out to sift the wheat from the chaff found him- self, after a year of church discipline, with only a hundred faithful. For a generation it will be impossible to make headway in the district where this bubble burst. Such cases make the experi- enced very apathetic toward mass movements and mushroom growths, and there is a deepen- ing conviction that spiritual Christianity ad- CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 239 vances only by winning individuals, never by at- tracting masses. The gentry and literati have been wont to de- spise the new religion from the "West. Looking upon us as cunning and formidable barbarians, they have heeded our missionaries about as much as the circle of Maecenas would have heeded Gaulish apostles of Druidism. Of late, however, their self-complacency has been dealt some stag- gering blows, and they are more willing to hear what the foreigner has to say. Certain mission- aries report that their listeners are from a more intelligent class and that the questions with which the preacher is plied at the close show marked intellectual acumen. Although the missionaries have gained few con- verts from the superior social classes, they have attracted a superior element from the middle and lower classes. The majority of a native Christian congregation resemble the general population, but a study of their physiognomy shows a greater frequency of noble or intellectual faces. Among a score of farmers in a little congregation gath- ered to dedicate a country chapel in Fokien, I noticed four fine faces and one peasant who might have sat to Leonardo da Vinci for his St. John. In view of the human quality of these Christians, I did not marvel on learning that the chapel, cost- ing two hundred and fifty dollars, had been built by twelve families out of their own resources, and that every stick of timber in it had been car- 240 THE CHANGING CHINESE ried on their shoulders from the sea-coast, a league away. Kino wing how little the modern woman's move- ment in the West owes to churchmen, one is sur- prised to see how potent is Christianity for the uplift of the women of the Far East. But in China the present need of woman is not industrial and social opportunity so much as improve- ment in her lot as daughter and wife. Thanks to the exalted place of the parent, the position of the mother, with reference to her children or her daughters-in-law, leaves little to be desired. The missionaries have not proclaimed the "rights of women" nor insisted upon the full equality of the sexes. But the women converts gain from the reading of the New Testament ideas of their dignity, and come to feel that they have rights which ought to be respected. It gives them courage to become Bible women, teachers, and physicians. From the same source the man learns to look upon his wife in a new light and to feel that he owes her love and re- spect. He substitutes persuasion for coercion, and concedes her full authority in certain mat- ters, such as the management of the household or the direction of the servants. One man told how formerly he had looked upon his wife as a mere toy, but since conversion he had come to love her and consult her, and, to his surprise, he had found that often her judgment was sounder than his. He blushed as he confessed that he "loved" his wife, for the Chinese never talk CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 241 about such feelings. It is a fact that Christians have the name of making good husbands, and are preferred as sons-in-law even by unbelieving parents. Because she marries young and can do little for her parents in their old age, the daughter is of slight account among the common people. Chinese gentlemen have told me that perhaps a tenth of the female infants are made away with. One woman I heard of had drowned eight. An- other went raving mad every time she saw her husband, who had taken from her her three baby daughters and sold them. Now, into this situa- tion Christianity projects certain new and very emphatic teachings. The convert is urged to cherish and educate his daughter instead of treat- ing her as a burden. He is to give her at least a primary education, so that she may be able to read her Bible. "When she comes of marriageable age, she finds herself far better off than other girls. To be sure, she is not courted after the manner of the West ; but she may be permitted to look upon her suitor, and, in any case, she is fully informed as to his disposition and attainments. She may even refuse to marry the chosen suitor without in- curring the crushing reproach of being "unfilial." Among the common Chinese, marriage negotia- tions are conducted in a very practical spirit, money being the chief consideration; but the Christian parents feel it their duty to consider first the happiness of their daughter. The male converts cling to the husband's head- 242 THE CHANGING CHINESE ship, buttressing their position with Pauline texts, and are reluctant to admit that deaconesses can be the full equals of deacons; but more and more the woman's position in the church reflects contemporary opinion in England and America rather than the dicta of St. Paul. In the older church buildings of South China, in deference to Chinese notions of propriety, a five-foot screen was set up, hiding the women's side from the men's side, but these screens are coming down. Formerly there was much objection in the better families to the attend- ance of unmarried girls at church, but now you see the maidens sitting in mother's pew with their eyes modestly lowered, and looking very sweet with their glossy brown hair falling in a snood down the back. Ten years ago women never testified in religious meetings; but now they speak and pray freely, and the most winning revivalist in China to-day is a young Chinese woman. Some scoffers insist that missions exist to turn out converts, just as a factory exists to turn out shoes. Divide your annual outlay by the number of new communicants, and you arrive at the av- erage cost of converting a Chinaman. Now, let conversion be conceived as a mere reminting which changes, indeed, the image and super- scription of the coin, but not its metal, and there is a sting in the gibe, "Is it worth while to con- vert Buddhists into Baptists at so many dollars the head?" CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 245 Now, tlie truth is, that, in the very nature of the case, by far the larger part of their ac- complishment can never be claimed by the mis- sionaries as their own. They dig the well and toil at the windlass, but the waters they raise do not flow in an open conduit to the fields they quicken. Most of them disappear in the ground, and when they reappear to make distant wastes bloom, they cannot be identified. "What of the young men leaving the mission colleges uncon- verted, yet imbued with Christian ideals? "What of the bracing effect on the government schools of competition with the well-managed and effi- cient mission schools? "What of the government schools for girls, which would never have been provided if the missionaries had not created a demand for female education and shown how to teach girls? WTiat of the native philanthropies which have sprung up in emulation of the mis- sion care for the blind, the insane, and the leper? What of the untraceable influence of the West- ern books of inspiration and learning which, but for the missionary translators, would not yet be accessible to the Chinese mind? Among Chi- nese who neither know nor care for the " Jesus religion," the changes of attitude toward opium- smoking, foot-binding, concubinage, slavery, "squeeze," torture, and the subjection of women, betray currents of opinion set in motion largely by the labors of missionaries. In other words, the running of so many heathen into our religious molds is not the chief accom- 246 THE CHANGING CHINESE plislnnent. Over and above the proselytes won are the beneficent transformations, intellectual and moral, wrought in great numbers of people who do not affiliate with the church. Then, over and above such transformations of individuals are the transformations wrought in the society and government of the Middle Kingdom — better treatment of slaves, of prisoners, of orphans, of wives, of commoners. In this the missionaries have a great part, though no man can say how much. Finally, over and above the transforma- tions of society are the transformations wrought in the Chinese civilization. Here again the mis- sionary has planted and watered, but may not gather the fruits into his bin. The missionary thinks of himself as a bearer of the Gospel, not as an apostle of Western moral civilization at its present stage. He does not perceive on his nose the twentieth-century spec- tacles through which he reads the Gospel, and so determines what is " scriptural. " "On what ground," I asked a woman evangelist, "do you forbid foot-binding as 'unchristian'?" "On the ground that it does violence to the body God gave us." I thought of the choir invisible of fasters, flagellants, and self-mutilators acting in supposed obedience to the command, "If thy hand offend thee, cut it off," and wondered what they would say to such a reason. The missionary is the introducer of current Western standards. He instructs his schoolboys respecting bathing, spitting, the use of the hand- CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 249 kerchief, neatness of garb, the care of one's room, modesty in personal habits. He teaches the people to clean house and yard, to whitewash the walls of the home, to scour the floors of the school-room or church. He enforces the duty of being humane to dumb animals, of rearing de- fective children, of educating daughters, and con- sulting the wife. Unwittingly he reads into the Scriptures every- thing that has commended itself to the conscience of Christendom, and becomes, in spite of him- self, the voice of his country and his time. The girls' schools in the American missions reflect American ideas as to woman's proper place. The industrial schools inoculate with American be- lief in the dignity of manual labor a people so dis- dainful of toil that everyone exempt from it ad- vertises the fact by wearing his finger-nails long. The notions of government taught in the mis- sion colleges would have horrified those who Christianized the Irish and the Saxons. The place these same colleges give to natural science and scientific methods betrays the modern spirit, and would have scandalized St. Boniface or St. Francis Xavier. The stubborn animosity of the average treaty- port foreigner toward the missionaries is at first unaccountable. How can intelligent men consent to circulate such brutal falsehoods, such patent calumnies? For you will be told that the mis- sionaries speculate in land, that they trade "on the side," that they take it easy and live better 250 THE CHANGING CHINESE than they did at home. As for their work, you learn that it is a failure, that the converts are frauds, and that the Christian Chinese is less honest and reliable than the heathen. Indeed, a local trader without twenty words of the lan- guage, dependent on his ''pidgin" English and his comprador, whose contact with the natives is limited to his servants and a few native mer- chants, will aver that the missionary, who ad- dresses the natives freely in their own tongue, comes and goes in their families, sees them off their guard, and counsels them in their intimate personal problems, "doesn't know the Chinese!" The British resent the outspoken hostility of all missionaries to the Indian opium trade. Then there is a belief in commercial circles that the opportunities and stimulus they supply cannot but strengthen the Chinese as competitors and embarrass the white man in his money-making. The rancor of the critics springs, however, from the deathless feud between the worldling and the idealist. Free from home restraints, many a merchant, shipmaster, or customs officer on the China coast lets himself go, and sinks into a life which obliges the missionaries to shun and dis- avow him. The sensualist, whose ruling pas- sions are high living, drinking, gaming, and de- bauchery, resents the silent reproach in the pure and domestic life of the missionaries, and strikes at them with incredible venom. I have heard a libertine, whose ideal vacation is an orgy in the yoshiwaras of Japan, rail at the missionaries CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 251 of the Lower Yangtse for gathering with their families during the heated term at a mountain resort like Kuling or Mokanshan; and this, al- though breakdown from overwork is far more frequent among them than among any other white men in China. An anti-missionary British consul in Western China was speaking to me of the trying climate of Szechuan. "It 's a shame," he said, "for a government or a firm to keep a white man here for more than three years." "But how about the missionaries?" I asked. "I understand they pass their lives here, retir- ing in summer no farther than the hills five miles away. ' ' "Well," he replied meditatively, "the climate does n't seem to hurt them. You see, they 're so interested in their work." But there are fair criticisms to be made. A Chinese Christian, educated in America and hold- ing a responsible post, told me that during the occupation of Peking by the Allies, when the local Chinese were under a reign of terror, cer- tain thrifty missionaries acquired large amounts of real estate for their missions by forcing sales. They would go to a householder and say, "We find your property is suitable for our purposes. Will you give us the title deed for fifty dollars ? ' ' The intimidated owner did not dare to refuse. The money was counted out to him, and he was notified to yield up possession in five days. Thus was acquired for a ridiculously low price much 252 THE CHANGING CHINESE of the real estate in a certain spacious compound. At one time the missionaries interfered too freely in lawsuits between a Christian and a non- Christian. The convert expected aid in such cases, for he is apt to conceive the church as akin to one of his mutual-benefit associations, in which all stand by one another in all circumstances. The Roman Catholics have always been strong in protecting their members, and by competition the Protestants were drawn into a like policy. Of course in each case the missionary supposed that he was on the side of right, but often he was misled by ex-parte stories. As there are treaties guaranteeing Chinese converts against persecu- tion, the intervention of the missionary, with consuls and gunboats looming dimly behind him, sometimes frightened the mandarin into an un- fair decision. Such errors not only hurt Chris- tianity by outraging the popular sense of justice, but they attracted self-seekers into the church. When, after the Boxer year, the policy was generally abandoned by the Protestants, there was in some quarters a falling away. The question of indemnity for mission property destroyed by rioters is one to perplex a convoca- tion of saints. On the one hand, it would seem that, but for the dread of having to pay indem- nity, the ill-disposed official might withhold all protection and let the mob work its destructive will. On the other hand, in the Changsha riots last year, the mission property was attacked GO =H ?H ■43 =1 «4 CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 255 just in order to pile up indemnities for a hated government to pay. The China Inland Mission, with its thousand missionaries, steadily refuses to claim indemnity, on the ground that the money is extracted not from guilty rioters, but from the innocent. Such an example of Christian for- bearance makes a deep impression on the Chi- nese and mightily advances the work of the mis- sion. • The results justify the policy, and no doubt the other missions, in order to escape in- vidious comparisons, will have to adopt it. Few of those in the field look for an early con- version of the Chinese. Those who have learned how tough and massive is the race mind expect that centuries will elapse before the yellow race will be as permeated by Christianity as the white race already is. They remember that "it took Buddhism three hundred years before it obtained official recognition and many centuries more be- fore the mass of the people were influenced by it." Nevertheless, none despond at the outlook, for they perceive that the aggressive rivalry of Chris- tianity, coupled with the coming diffusion of ed- ucation among the masses, is bound to raise con- tinually the religious plane of the Chinese oy forcing the native faiths to assume higher and higher forms in order to survive. A silent, secret permeation of the religions of the Far East by the ideals and standards of Christianity is inevitable; and if eventually they prove capable 256 THE CHANGING CHINESE of making a stand against the invader, it will be owing to their heavy borrowings from it. Chinese Buddhism appears to be too far gone to be resuscitated. Debased with popular super- stitions and loaded down with idol-worship, even the missionaries sent to China by the Japanese Buddhists will fail to breathe into it the breath of life. Quite otherwise is it with Confucianism. It is a natural rallying-point for the patriots and conservatives too proud to accept a foreign re- ligion, and there is every prospect that for genera- tions it will be a center of resistance. Already the scholars are reading into the classics ele- vated moral ideas they have unconsciously im- bibed from Christian literature. Already there is a movement that calls itself "Confucio-Chris- tianity"! The doubtful attitude of the early mission- aries toward Confucius has given way to a cordial appreciation of his ideals. Confucius offers a faultless example of a life dominated by prin- ciple; Jesus offers a faultless example of a life dominated by love. For the people at large the Gospels contain far more ethical inspiration than the Analects; but for magistrates, judges, and public men, who serve their fellows by conform- ing to principle, the Confucian literature is full of uplift. The handicap of Confucianism, in vying with Christianity as a moral force, is its lack of sanc- tion. It presents high ideals, but there is noth- ing to be dreaded by one who fails to live up to CHEISTIANITY IN CHINA 257 them. Hardly can it block natural inclinations and wrest lives from the grasp of appetite or pas- sion unless it develops the doctrine of responsi- bility to God. Such a development would hardly be difficult, for Confucius frequently speaks of "Heaven" as on the side of righteousness. Again, Confucianism, in competing with a re- ligion holding out the assurance of immortality, suffers from its silence as to the beyond. When the master was questioned on this, he replied evasively, "If you do not understand life, how can you understand death?" Very likely the doctrine of an after life will somehow be inter- preted into the classics. A Neo-Confucianism may thus be able to vie with Christianity for a long time; for, as a home-grown product, it will appeal strongly to the conservative instincts, mortified by the wholesale borrowings from West- ern culture that must presently be made. China's remoteness from our own historical epoch gives wings to the imagination, and the traveler realizes that very likely the mission- aries there face much the same situation that confronted the infant Church in the Eoman Empire — in both cases, temples, gods, images, altars, priests, sacrifices, superstition, an out- worn mythology, ancestor-worship, and moral ideals attracting only the elite. The Eoman Empire was superior to China in civic virtue, but China is superior in domestic virtue. The plane of culture does not appear to be very dif- 258 THE CHANGING CHINESE ferent. The subjects of Shien Tung are hardly- more enlightened than were those of Hadrian. Since Christianity made its way through the Ro- man Empire in spite of its being spread at first chiefly by small tradesmen, artisans, and freed- men, why should it not make its way through the Chinese Empire! For when the Chinese become sensible of the inferiority of their own culture, Christianity presents itself to them clothed with prestige. It is communicated by picked, trained men, equal in character and learning to any body of apostles that ever carried a faith to an alien people. It has the prestige of impressive antiquity and of an immense following. Moreover, it is in close as- sociation with a material civilization so suc- cessful that China will be obliged to adopt it in its entirety in order to survive. There is no reason to believe that there is any- thing in the psychology or history or circum- stances of the Chinese to cut them off from the general movement of world thought. Their des- tiny is that of the white race; that is, to share in and contribute to the progress of a planetary culture. It therefore seems safe to predict that, in the end, whatever happens to Christianity in the West will happen to it in China. If, owing to the discoveries of natural science or the results of the higher criticism of the Scriptures, the phil- osophical or historical basis of Christianity is shattered and it loses ground in the West, it will not move forward in China. The in- CHRISTIANITY IN CHINA 259 fluential and enlightened classes in China are quite too proud to allow their people to adopt anything cast off by the West. If, on the other hand, Christianity keeps its grip on the West, it is certain to move forward to ultimate triumph in China; for it is quite as congenial to the Chi- nese as it was to the people of the Eoman Em- pire in the third century. CHAPTER X THE EAR WEST OE THE FAR EAST A JOURNEY with Mr. Arnold, American Con- sul at Amoy, from Taiyuanfu, the capital of Shansi, southwest twelve hundred miles to Cheng- tu, the capital of Szechuan, in the early summer of 1910 enabled the writer to view a section of China that has been very rarely traversed and described by white men. The voyage down the Min and the Yangtse from Chengtu to Chung- king and thence to Ichang, the head of steam navi- gation, takes one through the famous gorges and rapids of the Yangtse, but the route has been so often and so well described that I will ignore that portion of my journey. For nearly three centuries the Tartar con- querors of China have let the splendid roads and canals inherited from the Ming dynasty go to pieces. Hence the arterial highway that binds Peking to the remote interior provinces is, through Shansi, mostly a low way. You are startled by seeing a man's head and shoulders gliding mysteriously through the wheat; draw nigh, and lo, a peasant riding on a cart in a sunken road! Often you find yourself traveling some yards below the level of the fields so that you see nothing of the country. After rains such 260 THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 261 a road becomes a canal, sometimes a torrent. Of labor spent npon it there is no sign. When the Empress Dowager fled this way in 1900, stretches were repaired for Her Majesty which had not been touched since 1780! The ruts are never filled, save by nature. The road wanders whither it will and when one track becomes im- passable another is found. As the loess is ground into dust under hoof and wheel and blows away, the road sinks deeper and deeper until you pass under old gate-towers whose foundations begin seven feet above your head. For three weeks we were passing square, flat- top towers three miles apart along which by means of signal fires news of distant invasion or rebellion used to be flashed to the Son of Heaven. Now the telegraph line marches over the hills, and lusty saplings are rending the masonry of the abandoned towers. The highway is, also, an open air "hall of fame," being lined with monu- ments erected to bygone worthies by a grateful community. Every mile of his journey the way- farer who can read is reminded of the virtues his countrymen honor. No people has relied so little on police and soldiers to keep the peace as the Chinese and these inscriptions show how they have schooled themselves in morality. From the Peking-Hankow line a French rail- road climbs west half a day to Taiyuanfu. Thence south for two hundred miles one meets the produce of the country seeking this rail outlet to Peking and Tientsin — innumerable 262 THE CHANGING CHINESE mule carts laden with flour, salt, tobacco, bean oil, hempen rope, paper, locust wood, licorice root, goat's hair, hides, and bales of cotton and wool. Moreover, Shansi is fat with min- erals which may make it a center of indus- trial energy after glowing Westphalia and Bel- gium and Pennsylvania have become a cinder. Once, looking down five hundred feet from the road, I counted in the side of a ravine seven veins of clear coal separated by limestone strata. Here and there one comes on workings where the natives burrow timidly into hillsides and bring out the coal on all fours. Near the pit good lump coal sells for seventy-five cents a ton, whereas a hundred miles away the same coal sells for seven times as much, showing a trans- port cost of four-and-a-half cents a ton-mile. A railroad down the valley of the Fen would cut this to one-tenth and put an end to twenty-five cent wheat and flour half a cent a pound. Throbbing with new life, Taiyuanfu boasts electricity, macadam, a uniformed street-clean- ing brigade, a public park with lagoon, bandstand and museum, a nursery growing trees for streets and open spaces, a match factory, a military school, a police force, a reformatory and a semi- weekly newspaper. But a couple of days south all traces of foreign influence vanish. Aside from the huge cigarette posters plastered clear through the province by some advertising van- dal, you are in the pure Middle Ages. The only illuminant is a twist of cotton burning in an iron Looking south from the Bell Tower. Sianfu The east gate of Taiyuaiifu, showing macadamized street THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 265 cup of rape-seed oil. The windows are of thin paper pasted on lattice. Coined silver does not circulate but one carries rough lumps which the dealer accepts according to the verdict of his own scales. On converting them into coin you visit all the money-changers and deal with the one with the most liberal scales. The money of the country is perforated brass cash on strings, two hundred to the string. Ten strings are worth a dollar, and weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds. Once when, according to our contract, we paid each of our coolies the equivalent of forty-three cents, they were so loaded with what is beyond all question "filthy lucre" that next day they could hardly carry us. In cities like Taiku and Pingyao, as well as in the capital, one sees signs of the profits reaped by the Shansi bankers who do the principal part of the banking of the Empire. Fine residences with numerous courts, elaborate gateways, parks, lily ponds, stone bridges, summer houses and an- cestral halls, which together with stables, garden and orchard occupy twenty or thirty acres and are enclosed by high walls crowned by an ornamental cornice, battlements and turrets, testify to former prosperity. Until recently poverty was increas- ing owing to opium-smoking and laziness, and, in towns once rich, good houses were being torn down for the sake of the bricks. But smoking is going out, and the tide is turning. Gambling, however, is said to be extending to the business class, and the sons of successful Shansi bankers, giving 266 t THE CHANGING CHINESE themselves up to self-indulgence, theatricals and poetry, let slip from them the businesses their fathers built up throughout the Empire. Some of these rich young men struck me as fat, soft and sensual. There is little to stimulate their ambition, and they see no reason why they should not give themselves up to the nearest pleasures. Zest for sports, or the ideal of bodily "fitness," has not yet taken hold of them. From the countryside at home this Shansi land- scape seems almost as remote as a Bedouin en- campment. There is never a pasture, meadow, hay-stack, barn or wind-mill. There are no painted houses, door-yards, barn-yards or grazing cattle. Instead of hedges or fences, open fields with here and there a square village girt with mud walls. Instead of cemeteries, clusters of graves, stone slabs, and brick monuments in the ancestral fields. For shingled frame houses, dwellings of sun-dried brick under tile or thatch, the larger enclosing a courtyard. For white church and red schoolhouse, temple, pagoda, and pailow. For finger-post, crumbling signal-towers and arched gateways. Of things outlandish and interesting there is no end. This is a camel country, but, as mules can- not abide a camel, the caravans lie up at camel inns through the day and travel only at night. We meet shaven, red-robed Buddhist monks on pilgrimage to the sacred mount of Wutaishan. They are from Szechuan, and have been two months on their way. All about Wensi looms are THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 267 clacking in the cottages, and the town is gay with long strips of coarse cotton cloth, dyed the char- acteristic blue of work-a-day China, drying from ropes stretched across the street. At Paisiang a sudden beauty blooms in the people and for four days we are frequently charmed with faces of a Greek refinement. At Hwachow in Shensi it ab- ruptly comes to an end and there is nothing but unmitigated Mongol till we enter the streets of Sianfu. Rural police there is none, and so in the even- ing the irrigator carries home with him rope, bucket and windlass. For the same reason the tiny shelters of the crop watchers dot the land. Rows of stalks of kaoliang or corn are leaned to- gether and daubed with mud. This makes a shelter like an A tent in which at night the crop guard squats and from which he watches his patch as harvest nears. All this is a heavy tax on the time and sleep of the peasants. The valley of the lower Fen is one vast expanse of yellowing wheat and harvest is beginning. The gardens have been given their final drink, the threshing floors smoothed and beaten, the sickles ground, and the schools closed. At break of day the family sets forth from the village, the babies piled on the wheelbarrow or cart along with ket- tles and pots, the women riding to spare their squeezed feet, the boys striding alongside per- fectly naked and the father guiding with his whip the dun bullock or gray donkey that draws the outfit. You see them at work under their flap- 268 .THE CHANGING CHINESE ping straw hats, reaping with sickle or cradle, and taking as long to bind one sheaf as I need to bind five. They indulge in a long siesta through the midday heat and in the cool of the evening ride home on sheaves piled onto the cart with forks from locust branches that have been trained to grow three tines from one point. Poor widows and naked orphans glean about in the stubble and follow the homing cart to gather the heads of wheat shaken from the load. It is harvesting as simple and idyllic as that of classical antiquity, and would have the charm of the old Greek life if only the maidens were as free as those of Homer's time. But by "pro- priety" the marriageable girls are excluded from this cheerful harvest-home and must stifle in the tiny close chambers of their low houses while the youths sing amid the sheaves. The wheat is strewed about the threshing floor and near midday when it has grown brittle in the sunshine they beat it with flails or make a donkey draw a stone roller round and round over it. Then the straw is lifted aside, the mingled grain and chaff swept into a heap and the picturesque winnowing begins. Always the wheat has the right of way. People flail out their sheaves on the road because it saves making a threshing floor and I have seen half the width of a sixteen-foot main street in a great city occupied by some- body's drying wheat. The traffic squeezed by and nobody protested against the encroachment. Nowhere is the havoc wrought by deforesta- CO g THE FAE WEST OF THE FAE EAST 271 tion more evident than in Northwest China. Around Taiyuanfu all the once-wooded moun- tains are bare and bone dry. Down through the province one sees no trees on mountain or foot- hill save those about temples. The original hard woods are all gone, so in the valley one grows cheap soft woods, — poplar, cottonwood, basswood, box-elder and willow. Once the tree cover is removed, the rains wash the soil from the hillsides and with it fill the water- courses and choke the valleys. Wherever a brook or a creek debouches into the valley of the Fen it has built with this wash a great alluvial cone, curving down-river, and along the crest of this cone runs the shallow gravelly bed of the stream that once loitered under high banks three or four fathoms beneath its present level. This cone has covered under silt and sand and gravel from a few score acres to several square miles of the former rich bottom lands and they can never be recovered. Buildings are imbedded to the waist in the debris. Gateways that once one could ride a camel through one can now only creep through on hands and knees. Twice we came upon ma- jestic stone bridges which once spanned broad affluents of the Fen, but which now, their noble arches half silted up, stand unused amid fields of beans and rape, sad monuments of a bygone prosperity. Since the bridge was built twenty feet of wash from deforested hills has been dropped in that watercourse and the stream no longer 272 THE CHANGING CHINESE fed from spongy wooded slopes is a trickle or an underground moisture in summer and a raging flood in the rainy season. With the woods vanishes much that makes life worth living. The brooks no longer run clear water filtered through moss and humus but are turbid with the soil of the bared slopes. Fish will not live in them, and bathing ceases to be a joy. In twelve days of Shansi travel I never saw a boy disporting himself in water. The springs dry up and no late-summer pastures are fresh- ened by the seepage from wooded hillsides. Dis- mally the muddy streams wander in the sun over wide shallows instead of lurking as of yore in deep channels under shading banks. No fallen tree or log jam checks the creek and offers an Au- gust lurking pool for the trout. No leafy path or mossy log invites lovers, though, to be sure, China does not believe in lovers. Millions live life through without knowing sylvan glades, "green-robed senators of the mighty woods," the glories of October leaves or the boyhood pleasures of nutting, bird-nesting, and squirrel- hunting. Roots, twigs, grass, straw and dung replace fire- wood. Brick or mud is the sole building material. Brick benches and tables replace wooden furni- ture ; brick stoops, wooden porches ; and the high- way stretches glaring hot and dusty to where the lone locust by the tea house offers a patch of shade. Thus, with the woods vanish most of the sources of beauty, the founts of poetry and in- THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 273 spiration dry up, and life sinks to a dull sordid round of food-getting and begetting. The most penetrative Western things in China are the Gospel, kerosene, and cigarettes, and I am glad that as between light, heat and smoke, the prophets of light get into the country first. These interior folk gather their first impres- sions of our race from those who want to make converts rather than those who want to make money. They take all foreigners for mission- aries and often were we greeted with "Ping an," "Ping an" (Peace be unto you), the salutation with which they are in the habit of greeting mem- bers of the mission. The inland missionaries freqently garb themselves a la Chinoise in order to get closer to the people. They do not feel it to be a hardship, however, for, in comparison with the practical Chinese costume, the cut of Western dress is about as foolish as anything you find in China. Some go so far as to grow a queue, and when you meet a Scotchman with a bright auburn pig-tail down his back you have seen something memorable. Missionary life here is no junket. I met one young man of noble face whose sweetheart had died of typhus a month before on the very day set for their wedding. Neither this shock nor a year's suffering from sprue, which one gets by "living Chinese" and sitting at the table of one's humble converts, had taken from his countenance its serene, uplifted look. Cut off from kindred, society, music, art, 13 274 THE CHANGING CHINESE amusement and intellectual companionship, the missionary makes of Eis house a little reteat full of reminders and suggestions of the motherland. The missionary home is a green oasis in a Sahara of dirt and ugliness. Surrounded by so much that is distressing these exiles have to live much in the spirit. If they devour endless devotional litera- ture and sing many hymns and hang fortifying texts on their walls, it is not at all from unwhole- some excess of piety but to find solace from the depressing spectacle of a fine people doomed to a dreary existence which cannot be much relieved in our time. Once we met a wayfarer with a singularly noble countenance, who put his bundle down and made us a profound salutation. The Consul conversed with him and after he had passed I asked, "Who is that man? He is one of the finest-looking Chinese I have ever seen." It came out that he was the pastor of a native church. I have not the language to describe what happiness and en- couragement these souls of higher aspiration among the Chinese gain from their fellowship with the kindred spirits from the West. While some complain that the missionaries live too well, I have heard the China-Inland mission- aries blamed for undertaking to live on too lit- tle — in some cases not more than a hundred dol- lars a year. In the field, however, you realize that the mission well knows what it is doing. In Hwachow, Shansi, you can get nine eggs for a cent, a pigeon for a cent, a fowl for five cents, a brace THE FAR WEST OF THE FAR EAST 275 of pheasants for three cents, mutton without bone for three or four cents a pound. For a cost of sixty cents a week apiece, the ladies of the mission can set their table with the best the market affords. These ladies, by the way, are English and kins- women of a gallant British general. They con- duct a self-supporting school with more than a hundred girls and live by themselves with not a white man within a day's journey. One of these sisters is a survivor of the Boxer year. Then she saw her pupils ravished and murdered and her school given to the flames. For weeks she was taken about in chains, lodged in the vilest dungeons and, time and again, the knife of a Boxer was at her throat. Yet she is back in her work at the old station, quite unconscious of her heroism. After a fortnight of mule litter we sight an- cient yellow Sianfu, "the Western capital," with its third of a million souls. Within the fortified triple gate the facial mold abruptly changes and the refined intellectual type appears. Here and there faces of a Hellenic purity of feature are seen and beautiful children are not uncommon. These Chinese cities make one realize how the cream of the population gathers in the urban centers. Everywhere town opportunities have been a magnet for the elite of the open country. Cinctured with twelve miles of lofty wall dating from the fourteenth century and in perfect re- pair, Sianfu, more than any other city, recalls 276 THE CHANGING CHINESE the early history of the "black-haired people" from the "West who from this "Wei valley carried their torch of civilization to the rude peoples of what is now China. Here indeed is the cradle of the Empire. Ages before Peking was or Canton, Sianfu was the central hearth of Chi- nese culture. No other city has been the capital for so long. Off and on it held the scepter for twenty-three centuries. From the battlements you see out across the plain huge tumuli shelter- ing the dust of monarchs who reigned before King Solomon. One commemorates the father of the execrated emperor who, not long after Alexander the Great, sought to break the sway of the past by burning the ancient books and slaying the literati. There is in China no museum of antiquities to match the Pei-lin or Forest of Tablets, a collec- tion of more than fourteen hundred historical records in stone running back twelve centuries. The pride of the collection is the famous Nes- torian Stone inscribed in 781, which gives a long account of the Nestorian Christianity which, after nourishing for two centuries, was stamped out by persecution a thousand years ago. How odd that the Cross was carried to China before it reached the Great Britain whose sons are now carrying it to the Chinese again ! The Mohammedans have many mosques here and from time to time of late the new self-con- scious aggressive Islam sends out some zealot from Constantinople to warm them in the faith. The type of public monument universal in Shansi • 1 Wm&& ^ *j ■ - ... Grave-stones, Chihli THE FAE WEST OF THE FAR EAST 279 Local Buddhism just now is under a cloud owing to a story that has the tang of the European Dark Ages. Not long ago a wicked monk in a Buddhist monastery here became obnoxious to his fellows and in solemn conclave, the abbot ap- proving, they decided he was not fit to live. So they stuffed him alive into their furnace. The missionaries report that many from the intel- lectual class now listen to the preaching in the central hall and after his sermon the preacher is well heckled with shrewd questions. "Do send out strong men!" was the parting word of a leading missionry; "We need all the equipment we can get to answer the questions the thinking men of China are asking." Naturally the spur of competition is putting new zeal into the friends of the old faith. The Confucians have banded together and are sending out wandering gospel- lers of their own to preach the doctrines of the Sage at fairs and other popular gatherings. And that is something worth while. Whatever their proselyting success the missionaries do suc- ceed in turning men's thoughts to the things of the spirit. Sianfu has a match factory, and the half-dozen shops carrying foreign goods show that the Chi- nese are buying patent medicines, tooth brushes, cosmetics, liqueurs, cigarettes, condensed milk, underwear, lamps, clocks, spectacles, penknives, and athletic goods. American kerosene sells for forty-three cents a gallon, but at Yenchuan in the north of the province, where there is an inex- 280 THE CHANGING CHINESE haustible supply of petroleum, a uative refinery is producing kerosene which, after two hundred miles of cart carriage, sells here for thirty-one cents. When, in the days of Cromwell, the Manchu Tartars overpowered China, they placed Tartar garrisons in the chief cities. These "banner- men," living a privileged caste in their own fortified quarter and fed by government rice, have vegetated and multiplied for generations. In Sianfu the Tartar quarter is a dismal picture of crumbling walls, decay, indolence and squalor. On the big drill grounds you see the runways along which the horseman gallops and shoots ar- rows at a target while the Tartar military man- darins look on. These lazy bannermen were tried in the new army but proved flabby and good-for-nothing; they would break down on an ordinary twenty-mile march. Battening on their hereditary pensions they have given themselves up to sloth and vice, and their poor chest de- velopment, small weak muscles, and diminishing families foreshadow the early dying out of the stock. Where is there a better illustration of the truth that parasitism leads to degeneration! The hope is in the new national army, and this is one of its important recruiting centers, for the Mohammedans of this province and Kansuh, sprung in part from West Asian warriors, are far more spirited and pugnacious than the pure Chinese. There is a military preparatory school here with two hundred students, and buildings THE FAB WEST OF THE FAE EAST 281 are arising for what is to be one of the four chief military schools of the Empire. In all the public schools there is daily military drill. Feeling the closing jaws of the vise, i. e., the Powers, Chinese patriots are making the army the national pet in order to raise the despised calling of the soldier. Patriotic societies as- semble the people and appeal to scholars and other better elements to enlist. The students are stirring up an agitation for the establishment of a volunteer army. In some parts of the Empire, especially in the provinces near to Peking, good men are sought for the ranks, they are promptly paid, and they are taught to make themselves trig and neat. The men are proud of the uni- form and the public is being taught to respect it. When traveling, soldiers are no longer herded in open trucks, but ride third-class. The military ranks have been raised above the cor- responding civil ranks. The officers are prod- ucts of military schools not, as formerly, prize essayists. Princes of the Blood hold high com- mands and constantly wear their uniforms. The infant Emperor has conferred upon the army the supreme distinction of announcing himself as its commander-in-chief. Nevertheless, each province does pretty much as it pleases, uniforms and equipments are not yet standardized, and at least fifteen distinct types of rifles are in use. Often the central military authorities show an astonishing lack of snap and efficiency. For example, they allow 282 THE CHANGING CHINESE the testing of a foreign machine to train the men to accurate shooting to be interrupted for the hundred days of mourning after the late Em- peror's death and again for five weeks at the Chinese New Year. The following incident re- veals the old listlessness in quarters where the professional spirit ought to be at its keenest. An American captain happened to show certain Chinese officers at Peking a Browning revolver which so pleased them that they inquired how they, could obtain such a weapon. He volun- teered to get them and presently orders for two hundred were taken, mostly among officers of the Imperial Guard. Since a government permit (hu-chao) is necessary if you want to bring arms into Cathay, the captain suggested to the officers that of course they would procure the indispensa- ble hu-chao. They said, "Oh, you get it," and as he would not beseech the Chinese Government for permission to import arms for its own de- fenders, the revolvers never came. All the four days to Fengsiangfu the road was lined with reapers returning home to Kansuh. At dawn they would be lying thick by the road- side asleep, and a little later they would be crowd- ing the eating stalls where our chair coolies rest and smoke after three miles of carry. Here a cent buys a big bowl of noodle soup or wheat porridge with a large steamed roll and a sugared doughnut, so the strings of hard-earned cash tied about their waist suffered little. Each carried pipe and tobacco pouch and on 9 CD M- l"S J. C 5' s= - ^ — B c en a r^ r+ c tf rt- Ms CD C rt- DC s 0R9 s= 5: ~ i !& ^ << z "P £

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