^"€©5 ^K4] Wf' ^ -v^ y HISTORY OF THP] LIFE WILLIAM GILPIN A CHARACTER STUDY BY HUBERT HOWE BANXROFT [From Chronicles of the Kings] SAN FRANCISCO THE HISTORY COMPANY, PCTBLISHERS 1889 J ^/>i/iaymy^ HISTORY OF THE LIFE OF WILLIAM GILPIJ^ A Modern Plato and a Modern Athens — Ancestry — Environment Ex- traordinary — West Point — Visit to England — Army os" the West — Florida War — Expedition to Oregon — Exploration in Colorado —In the Mexican War — Indian Wars — Governor of Colorado- Vicissitudes OF Later Life — Visit to California — Land Operations — Character. Plato, ill the universality of his genius, appears to every age and every individual as of his own time and place. He had so absorbed all knowledge that in the annals of men one epoch was the same to him as an- other. All that the world before him had known he knew. He went to Italy to hear Pythagoras, but left more than he broiiglit away ; and but for the prema- ture hemlock he would have been teaching his master Socrates. Nor was the past alone open to him ; he made the present and the future his own. His genius swept over all the earth, penetrated the eternal hills, and pla^^ed with the stars. All science, all philosophy, all history were his. We have as yet no American Athens, though there have been pretensions advanced in that direction; if located in the heart of the continent, Denver might present strong claims to the distinction. High in the heavens she stands, with many an Olympus near; there are men of taste and learning within her borders, and her temples and schools are surpassed by none. Moreover she has her Plato, the fiist of philosophers and the first of men; him whose thoughts fly in air, preferring symbol to syllogism; (I) 2 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. who if he needs a religion makes one, or if a govern- ment, formulates one; who if he lacks incident, falls back on inspiration, having always at hand that phil- osophy of philosophies which makes men and nature its own. Few of those whose forefathers came to America can boast of a more worshipful ancestry than William Gilpin, scholar, soldier, and sometime governor of Colorado. For his devotion to Richard Coeur de Leon, whom at Austria on returning from his first crusade King- John would have caused to be murdered, and for slay- ing a wild boar which infested the forests of West- moreland and Cumberland, the baron of Kendal, in 1206, gave the manor of Kentmere to Richard de Guylpyn, a substantial commoner, whose original had come in with William the Conquerer. The earl of Kendal, who commanded at this most highly devel- oped part of the old Roman colony, could not read or write; wherefore, on attending tlie convention which on the little island of Runymede in the Thames wrung from Kino- John the maof-na charta, he took with him Guylpyn as his scholar, for which service, as well as for his other achievements, he was knighted. Several Richards follow; and to the grandson of Sir Richard de Guylpyn, in 1268, in the time of Henry III., Peter de Bruys, who married a co-heiress of William de Lancaster, gave the manor of Ulwith- waite, so that the family had indeed vast possessions. Many have taken the grandson of Richard de Guylpyn of 1268, who was owner of the manors of Kentmere and Ulwithwaite, to be the first of the name. In the reign of Richard III. comes another Richard Gilpin, whose son William was slain in the battle of Bos- worthfield, in 1485, during the civil wars of the houses of York and Lancaster, his brother Edwin thus becom- ing heir. George, the son of Edwin, was minister plenipotentiary for Queen Elizabeth at the Hague, WILLIAM GILPIN. 3 and was also eminent in letters. Another son of Eel- win, Bernard Gilpin, called the Apostle of the North, was a very distinguished man. He was born at Kent- uiere in 1517, and died in 1583. Brought up a Roman catholic, he was made rector of Houghton ; but before the death of Queen Mary he became satisfied with the doctrines of the Reformation. Armored in the faith, midst the incessant strife of the time, he passed scathless. Once on entering Rothbury church, in Northumberland, he observed a glove suspended in a conspicuous place as a chal- lenge from some horse-trooper of the district. Taking- it down he entered the pulpit and began to preach. During the course of his sermon he paused, and, lift- ing the glove in his fingers, said : "I hear there is one among you who has even in this sacred place hung up a glove in defiance." Then flinging it to the floor, he continued, " I challenge him to compete with me in acts of Christian charity." A charge of thirteen articles was drawn up against him, and complaint laid before the bishop of London, whereupon he prepared for martyrdom. One doctrine which he preached was that whatever happened was for the best. On his way to London he fell from his horse and broke his leg. The guard sneeringly in- quired of him, "Call you this' for the best'^' "I doubt not it will so turn out," was the reply. He was taken to the Tower, there to await recovery from the accident. Mary meanwhile died, and he was set at liberty, whereupon he returned to Houghton. He was then offered by Elizabeth the See of Carlisle, which he declined, preferring to preach the Reformation and endow schools. Whenever he met a poor boy on the road he would put questions to him to test his natural ability, and if pleased therewith would provide for his education. A life of Bernard Gilpin, by William Gil- pin, prebendary of Salisbury, was published, first in 1753, and again at Glasgow in 1824, in which are delineated his virtues and persecutions. 4 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. The Gilpin family had frequently to suffer on ac- count of their religion. "The race that once went bravely forth To slay the wild boar in his den, Now meets the bigots in their wrath, And boldly claims the rights of men." Next we have a William Gilpin who married Eliza Washington, sister to our American Washington's great grandmother. They had a son George who inherited the manor of Kentmere, two generations after whom the estate was lost during the parliamen- tary civil wars. Sawry Gilpin was a celebrated painter of horses, giving them a very fierce expression; he was born in 1733. When Cromwell established the commonwealth of England and became the protector, Thomas Gilpin commanded the first resfiment of Ironsides at the crowning victory at Worcester, which battle van- quished all opposition to Cromw^ell. The Gilpins were amongst the first to enlist with Cromwell, and they remained faithful to him until he died. During a visit to England our present William Gilpin found Charles Gilpin, a representative of Northampton in parliament for eighteen years, a member of the board of trade, and a commissioner of the public works in London. Thomas Gilpin of Warborough, born in 1620, mar- ried Joan Bartholomew and had three sons, Joseph, Isaac, and Thomas. He was an ofiicer in the army, and after the battle of Worcester in 1651, joined the society of friends. Persecutions followed. Meetings were held at his house, for which offence he was stripped of his household effects and thrown into prison. Joseph Gilpin, born in 1664, married Han- nah Glover in 1691. They were quakers; and seeing how badly their people were treated by the govern ment, emigrated with their two small children, in 1696, to America, having for their companions de voy- age the ancestors of the Coats and Morris families. WILLIAM GILPIN. 5 and settling at Birmingham meeting-house on the Brandywine, in what is now Delaware county, Penn- sylvania. It was a frontier settlement, and the forest yet waved over the spot which was to be his future home. Each settler had his own work to do; wherefore for the shelter of his family Joseph Gilpin hollowed out a cave by the side of a rock, in some dry white clay, which for warmth and healthfulness was superior to many of the houses of his neighbors built above ground; and there he lived and reared his family of fifteen children. From Joseph Gilpin's second son, Samuel, sprang Thomas, born in 1728, whose first son, Joshua, born in Philadelphia in 1765, was father of our William Gilpin, who was the eighth and youngest child. Before coming to America the Gilpins and others had built the little meeting-house in which William Penn preached, and their families intermarried after- ward. When the Mason and Dixon line was later marked off, three states cornered in the Gilpin or- chard. In generations following the first in Amer- ica, log, frame, and brick houses were respectively built for the occupation of the Gilpins, and a residence in Philadelphia established. Thomas Gilpin, the grandfather of our William Gilpin, engaged in farming and manufacturing; he was interested in science, and was one of the founders of the American philosophical society. Joshua Gilpin, the father of William, was a man of no ordinary culture and ability, inheriting all the finish possessed by the quakers of Philadelphia during the era of their prosperity, when the whole power of the American people was centred there. Asso- ciating on equal terms with the most polished and learned men on both sides of the Atlantic, his society was sought by every one. It was his house that w^as Lafayette's headquarters at the battle of Branywine. Between the vears 1795 and 1801 he lived in Eno-- 6 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. land and married an Englishwoman. Under many discouragements he urged to completion the canal which his father had projected. He was very fond of historical investigations, and of poetry, publishing in 1799, Verses Written at the Fountain of Vaucluse; in 1821, Memoir on a Canal from the Chesapeake to the Delaware; and in 1839, Farm of Virgil and other Poems. He died in Philadelphia in 1840. His wife, Mary Dil worth, and William's mother, was the fit consort of such a man, beautiful, amiable, and accomplished. She was of quaker stock, her father, John Dilworth, being a banker at Lancaster. She was a conspicuous figure in the best society, in which were many charming men and women of good breeding, polish, and education; the Jeffersons, the Randolphs, the Franklins, the Washingtons, and others. Within their immediate neighborhood were nine signers of the Declaration of Independence. The sympathies of the Gilpins were of course all with Washington, but being quakers they were, non-combatants during the Revolutionary war. A flouring mill built by Thomas Gilpin, William's grand- father, is now called the Washington mill, having supplied Washington with flour while at Valley Forge. Of the large landed interest, consisting of several hundred thousands of acres, which the family possessed, five thousand acres finally fell to William, which he sold at five dollars an acre, investimg the money in western Missouri, the rest having been cut up and scattered by sales and intermarriages. It was into such an atmosphere as this that William Gilpin was born, on the 4th of October, 1822. Among his earliest recollections was the visit of Lafayette to his father's house on the anniversary of the battle of Brandy wine, he being at that time just old enough to be carried on a horse behind his father. During his earlier childhood he was not sent to school, but was the pupil of his father. Among those from whom WILLIAM GILPIN. 7 he learned much was Lawrence Washington, whose home was at Mt Vernon. There was quite a French settlement on the Brandy wine, among them the Du- pont family, the famous powder manufacturers, Ad- miral Dupont being one. William was very fond of history, poetry, and physical gecjgraphy ; he spoke French fluently at an early age. He was indeed a favored child of fortune, with his elegant surroundings and happy home, which overlooked the Delaware and the Brandywine, where the boats were constantly passing, and having Penn- sylvania, Delaware, Maryland, and New Jersey in sight. Being the youngest he was made much of b}^ all. It was the custom of the Gilpin s to make occa- sional visits among the prominent people, travelling in the family carriage, and on these trips they would always take William. And around their table all these friends would meet to eat Christmas dinner with Joshua Gilpin. To complete their education and see more of the world, the Gilpin children were sent to Europe on arriving at proper age. So when he was twelve years old William's father took him over to Newcastle, and put him on boaid the ship Montezuma, bound for Liverpool, whose captain Joshua Gilpin well knew, the boy being consigned to the care of an elder brother, wdio was clerk in the quaker American house of Cropper and Benson. At Settle, in York- shire, was a foundation school, like Rugby, where but sixty pupils were admitted, and there William was placed, and remained two years. He studied mathe- matics and the languages, and had additional masters in Liverpool. His purpose here being accomplished, after a visit to a brother who had been appointed by President Jackson American consul at Belfast, he returned to Philadelphia, where his father and brother Henry had a house and spent much of their time. He at once applied for admission to the junior class of the 8 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. university of Pennsylvania, among whose founders was his grandfather, and where three of his brothers had graduated. It was against the rules of the institu- tion to admit advanced students without their taking the usual course, and the faculty at first refused him. "If they will not admit you tell them you shall go to Princeton," his father said. The faculty yielded ; but the boy had to undergo his examination ; and to this end he employed a tutor, who was the author Haw- thorne, and studied night and day through the inter- vening ten weeks of vacation. At the beginning of the term he presented himself, was examined for three days, was admitted, and in two years graduated. President Jackson, who was on intimate terms with the Gilpin family, had always taken a paternal inter- est in Joshua's boys, following them in their studies, and securing them places after their education was fin- ished. On one occasion, in making a journey into New England, Jackson came to Newcastle in a steamer, and Joshua Gilpin went over to receive him there. When he entered the cabin Old Hickory im- mediately stepped forward, threw his arms around him, and said: "Here is a face I am delighted to see. Where is your son?" referrino- to William's eldest brother, Henry. "You should have brought him along; he is my son too." Henry was United States district attorney at Philadelphia, and was af- terward appointed United States attorney general. They were having much trouble about that time with the affairs of the United States bank, to which Henrj^ had to give attention, and William was fre- quently sent to Washington with messages from the directors to General Jackson, who always greeted the youth most kindly with the endearing epithet "my son." Thus William had almost free access to the president's apartments, and when the youth mg.de bold to ask a favor it was usually granted. There- fore when he expressed a desire to go to West Point, his wish being backed by the influence of his father WILLIAM UlLPIN. 9 and brother, he had no difficulty in having his name placed in advance of the hundreds of other applicants. At West Point William studied very hard, Meade and Montgomery Blair were his tutors. He spent much of his time in the library, and gave special attention to French and mathematics. On complet- ing his course at West Point he went to Philadelphia. He was now eao^er for action. He had been educated almost to death by the brightest intellects in the world, and now he would try the metal of his own mind. For some time past he had read and thought much regard- ing the great unoccupied West, never loosing an oppor- tunity to converse with those familiar with the subject. Already military forces were on the frontier, stationed at various forts, at once to restrain and protect the Indians and prevent white men from illegall}^ enter- ing their territory. All this was thrilling romance to the young cadet. Some clay he would go there; some day he would mingle with those scenes, and would stir up events which in their turn should yet more stir him up, and help him on to high emprise. As there was no fighting at present to be done at home, it occurred to William to try his fortune abroad, and he accordingly slipped over to London. At that time a legion of ten thousand was forming in England for service in Spain, to fight against Don Carlos and in favor of Isabella, and it was his idea to join this army, learn something of the Spanish lan- guage, and the mode of warfare practised there. His third brother was in London at the time, learning- engineering, but was about ready to return home. He made application to Colonel Witherell, the re- cruiting agent for the arinj^ in London, and was told he could not got a commission; that the young nobil- ity were applying for positions constantly, and that a mere youth, especially an American, had no chance. His father sustained agreeable personal relations with Lord Brougham, and he was making arrangements 10 GOVERNMENT-COLORADO. to secure his indorsement and that of other friends in London, when the ship Toronto came into Southamp- ton port from New York, after a thirteen days' voy- age, the quickest saiHng that had yet been made. This vessel brought news of the great fire in New York, and what was of greater importance, the out- break of the Seminoles in Florida, and the massacre of Dade's command at Withlachooche, Plantations were being robbed right and left, and the negroes driven into the everglades in the interior. Here, in- deed, was opportunity; the lad might now have some fighting. In company with his brother Richard he at once returned home, arriving in New York on the 4tli of March, 1836. Without stopping to visit his parents in Philadelphia, lest they should endeavor to prevent his purposes, young .Gilpin started for Wash- ington. Having to remain over one night at Balti- more, he went on the railroad, which had just been opened, to see the president. On board the train was Blackhawk, the Indian chief who had been captured a short time previous, and was being taken as a pres- ent to Jackson. In riding over the bleak and sterile country between Baltimore and Washington, some one asked Blackhawk how he liked railroads. He had come from the Rock River country, a fertile and beautiful section, and the contrast was appalling to him. He replied, with an Indian grunt, "The Great Spirit give machine to these people to get 'um over this country quick." Jackson had raised one reofiment of drao-oons, which was stationed at Leavenworth, and employed to protect the frontier, particularly to keep the whites out of the Indian country along the line of the Mis- souri and Arkansas rivers, and down to the gulf. The Oregon question and other matters began to be agitated, and the president was getting well through his struggle with the United States bank, and saw victory near at hand; so he raised a second regiment to go out into the Indian country where the first WILLIAM GILPIN. II regiment was stationed. The third regiment, organ- ized later, took the name of the Oregon regiment, and these three regiments of cavalry, and two others, formed the government corps of our army. Another regiment of negroes has been added to it. The cur- rent of matters was so intense and impetuous then that it got the American people to thinking, and broke down the line of despotism. It was while this regiment was being formed by Harney in the west, that the Florida war commenced. Harney was at St Louis as paymaster, and Wharton Rector was in the army, and as each .so desired, they exchanged, and Harney was put mto William's regiment as major. Young Gilpin without difficulty obtained from the president a commission as 2d lieutenant in the 2d Dragoons, and was sent among the miners of Missouri to gather recruits. This was in July 1836. The stalwart sons of Missouri regarded it as a joke that a boy like this should be sent to enlist them to fight the battles of their country. Nevertheless he continued his course, and after reporting himself at St Louis, he went up the Mississippi under Harney's direction. He was full of fire and life, and had dashed recklessly into the west. He liked Harney, and Harney was pleased with him. He remained recruiting until autumn of this year, when he received a letter at Louisville from Harney, containing an order from the president to collect all the recruits obtainable in the valley of the Mississippi, take them down to New Orleans, and get ready to join Jessup in Florida. This he did, remain- ing at New Orleans all winter in command of recruits, drilling and preparing them for service. The men were part of the force originally intended for the frontier, but while recruiting they were ordered to Florida, and thus all came together at New Orleans. Albert Sidney Johnston was there on his way to join Sam Houston in Texas as his adjutant-general, and he afterward became general of the standing army 12 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. of Texas when Houston was made president. Twiggs came on from Washington and took Gilpin to St Louis, all in preparation for the Florida campaign. He was now assigned the position of first lieutenant in the company, and he asked General Gaines and General Atchison, who were there, to be sent to Flor- ida to join his company, which had been sent forward from New York. This was done early in the summer of 1838. There was a post within twelve miles of St Augus- tine, in the woods, and General Hernandez, a Mexican, under whom Gilpin found himself, kept him constantly scouting. During these scouts Osceola, Coacooche, Blue Snake, and other prominent Seminole chiefs were captured. They had been scattered about with their families, and had swept a vast number of negroes down into their country, and these black men were constantly escaping and giving information as to where a certain notorious family or band of savages could be found. Presently General Jessup came up with the main army; likewise Belknap, tiie general of artillery; and Twiggs came down by land through Nashville. In the mean time Gilpin had become master of the situation, owing to the scouting expeditions he had made, and during which he had studied the country very carefully. There were skirmishes every week, and sometimes every day. It was in the region of cy- press swamps, grass lakes, alligators, and all kinds of things curious to the young northerner. When Jes- sup arrived and took command of the army, and the weather became cold enough to open the winter cam- paign, he placed Gilpin and his men near him, and the result was that during all the rest of the war the young man was in active service day and night under Jessup's orders. Finally Taylor appeared on the gulf side, and fought the Indians below the Okechobee, while Jessup pressed them from the north and scattered them into the everglades. The few that could not get out were allowed to remain on condition that they would never WILLIAM GILPIN. 13 cross a line drawn from Charlotte's harbor to Indian river. Steamers then came for the troops, and Gilpin was sent with five or six hundred horses over to Fort Melon, where supplies had accumulated. Meanwhile Van Buren had come into power and Mr Calhoun now looked after these matters; and his object had been accomplished when money enough had been spent to secure a southern state to counteract the admission of Michigan, a non-slaveholding state. And even now, instead of being sent to renew exploration in the west, the whole force was dismounted and turned into a rifle regiment, and sent to Jessup to watch negroes for Calhoun. Not caring for such occupation, and unwilling to have his hopes thus blasted, Gilpin pro- ceeded to Washington and requested Mr Van Buren to either give him a company of explorers, that he might undertake investigations throughout the conti- nent to the Columbia river, which region the United States laid claim to, or to give him leave of absence for two or three years that he might make a journey on his own responsibility. Moreover he did not like Twiggs. But Van Buren refused, saying it was against the policy of his administration to have any outbreak or agitation toward the central west. There was filibustering in Cuba and in Central America; there had been trouble in Florida, and he wanted no excitement among the savages in the direction of the Pacific. He informed Gilpin that if he did not like the officers of his regiment, there was forming the 8th regiment of infantry, to which he could be transferred and promoted. Gilpin had brought with him his commission in his breast pocket, knowing beforehand that nothing could be done with Van Buren, and he now asked the president to accept his resignation, which was done. Nevertheless he was greatly dis- appointed, and said : " This breaks my life in two ; what is left of it I will take into my own hands." 14 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. He returned to Missouri and resumed civil life, locating himself at St Louis, where he took charge of the Missouri Arg^is, conducting it for twelve months during an election campaign. The reelection of Ben- ton and Lynn to the senate was the issue of the hour, and their interests were regarded as in jeopardy. Under its former management the Argus had broken down, and as Gilpin was a young man, and mentally and physically vigorous, he was deemed a proper per- son to place in charge of the paper. The opposition brought Webster to St Louis, and he made a telling speech, saying that in his opinion the vote of the coming presidential campaign turned on the election in Missouri, and that it was essential to get Benton out of the way. It was a desperate fight. St Louis was the focal point where all the political rabble from New Orleans and elsewhere gathered themselves, and they were now holding here violent conventions.' This inflammable element went up the river to Keokuk, Bocheport, Cincinnati, and Nashville, lighting the fires of spurious patriotism. But the party fought its way through, and carried the state legislature by 139 votes for the reelection of Benton and Lynn. Gilpin was thereupon made secretary of the general assembl}^ of the state of Missouri. Sterling Price was speaker. In their measures they put a saving clause which prevented any effort toward reconstruct- ing the United States bank, and the independent treasury system was brougiit forward and established by Van Buren. Yet Gilpin saw that nothing could be done in the direction he desired, in view of the change of politics; so that after his duties as secretary of the general assembly were over he determined to give his time to exploration, as there existed every- where a lamentable ignorance of the western country. What shall we say when so astute a statesman as Daniel Webster, at the close of a speech on the floor of the United States senate, denouncing a proposition to establish a mail route from Independence, Mis- WILLIAM GILPIN. 15 souri, to the mouth of the Columbia, breaks forth: "What do we want with this vest, worthless area? This region of savages and wild beasts, of deserts, of shifting sands and whirlwinds of dust, of cactus and prairie dogs? To what use could we ever hope to put these great deserts, or those endless mountain ranges, impenetrable and covered to their ver}^ base with eternal snow? What can we ever hope to do with the western coast, a coast of 3,000 miles, rock- bound, cheerless, uninviting, and not a harbor on it? What use have we for such a country? Mr Presi- dent, I will never vote one cent from the public treasury to place the Pacific coast one inch nearer to Boston than it now is." Gilpin knew better than this, and he would know more. But first he would settle himself somewhere and declare his profession. He had entered his name as student of law, with his brother, in Philadelphia, and on determining^ to make his home in the west he had gone before Strong, judge of the eastern district of Pennsylvania, where he was examined and ad- mitted to practice, and he had brought with him his commission. During his editorship of the Missouri Argus Gilpin made many hearty enemies in St Louis and elsewhere, owing to the political bitterness which prevailed dur- ing the campaign which resulted in the election of Benton and Lynn; and while holding the office of secretary of the general assembly he went constantly armed and always on the lookout for an assault. Two indictments were found against him in St Louis, but Governor Reynolds said, "Give yourself no uneasiness on that score, for whatever they do I have always your pardon written out." Gilpin read one morning, at Jefferson Cit}^ a copy of a notice which had been posted up on the steps of the court-house at St Louis, to the effect that if he returned to St Louis he would be killed at sight. It was signed by a man named Grimsey, a well-known political boss and a bully. 16 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. The session having closed, it became Gilpin's duty to take the manuscript of the laws, which had been revised, to the state printer at Cape Girardo. He at once started for that point via St Louis. He arrived in the latter city at midnight, and on the following- morning, while passing along the street, he was ap- proached by the man Grimsey, a large, powerful fellow, who was carrying a heavy club. Gilpin at that time weighed 145 pounds, but he was lithe and active, and his physical training had been excellent. He carried in his hand a stout hickory stick which he used to good advantage; for before the bully could strike, Gilpin had, with a blow of his stick, disarmed his antagonist, and was raining down blows upon his head. The stick split, but Gilpin kept on, each blow cutting to the bone, until the bully was dripping in his own blood. The combat occupied not more than two minutes, and resulted in Grimsey being completely vanquished. After this Gilpin proceeded to Cape Girardo and transacted his business with the state printer. Grimsey 's chastisement effected a total reformation in his character, and he lived an exem- plary life for the rest of his days. Jackson and Clay counties were directly opposite one another, and abutting against the Indian territory; they had been named at the time of the memorable battle between Clay and Jackson for the presidency. Clay county on the north had been settled principally by Kentuckians, while Jackson county on the south was populated by Tennesseans. Lieutenant Gilpin finally located himself at Independence, the county seat of Jackson county, a few miles below where Kan- sas City now is, where he entered into the practice of the law. His brother had presented him with a set of United States supreme court reports upon his de- parture for the west, and these formed the nucleus of his hbrary. The land between the town-site and the river he secured, and built thereon a cabin, in which he at times lived. The spot was isolated, the onh^ WILLIAM UILPIN. I7 commerce being that conducted by means of wagon- trams which passed over the mountains into Mexican territory, but its remoteness from the civihzed east was counterbalanced by its proximity to that vast un- explored region of which he had so long dreamed, and he was content to remain there that he might associ- ate with those adventurous men who were tradino-, hunting, or trapping in the territory he was dete?- mmed to explore, and from them derive information as to climate and topography which would be of benefit to him on his projected journey. He talked with Kit Carson and others from the wilderness who came in and passed through Independence almost every sum- mer. Neither his law practice nor his agricultural pur- suits proved remunerative. He managed however to earn enough to live upon, but that was all. In 1842 a party of New Mexican traders having in their pos- session $60,000 in silver coin, with which they intended to purchase goods, was expected to arrive in Inde- pendence. A few of their number, who came into town in advance of the main party, brought the news that a band of robbers had gone out to get this money, and requested that assistance should be sent. Ten men under Lieutenant Gilpin were furnished provis- ions and transportation, and they started off. Un- fortunately the robbers were succe'ssful in their desion. Only the hair of Manuel Chaves, the chief trad'er, who had charge of the money, was found, the body having been devoured by wolves. The robbers re- turned to Independence and thence to Kansas City where they were arrested, taken to St Louis, and four ot them hanged. Independence remained Lieutenant Orilpin s nominal residence for twenty years, from 1841 to 1861, though he was at various times absent upon exploring expeditions. His next expedition, in which he made his way to the Pacific Ocean, near Astoria, was begun in June 18 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. 1843. By selling liis library, and in various other ways, he secured a little money with which to purchase an outfit. His first purchase was a saddle-horse for $95. He then bought a yaager rifle, blankets, and the various paraphernalia requisite to an extended jour- ney through the wilderness. Yet he needed more money, and an acquaintance, who was soon to be mar- ried to an intimate friend of his, loaned him a hundred dollars. He was now ready to start, having as an outfit, and in addition to his saddle-horse, rifle, and small-arms, a pack-mule that carried his camping utensils. The people evinced very decided opposition to his going thus alone far into the Indian country, and used every argument to dissuade him from his purpose, but without avail. After mounting and starting out the pack-mule broke away from him, lost the pack, and returned to town. Again he had to pass through the ordeal of his friends, but he re- mained firm of purpose, and the second start proved successful. Fremont had been ordered, about this time, to make a summer expedition to the mountains and return; and a party of Scotchmen were also intending to make a hunting trip to the South pass and return ; but Gilpin's objective point was the mouth of the Columbia. He went into camp the first evening, out about thirty miles, at a spot called the Lone Elm, David Waldo, the man who had loaned him the money, accompany- ing him thus far. He found encamped in this vicin- ity a few men whom he did not at first recognize, but to his surprise they proved to be the party of Fremont. The immortal pathfinder asked Gilpin where he was going, and was told. He expressed astonishment, and said: "Why, even with my whole force I do not consider myself safe from massacre to-morrow; now if you are determined to go on, throw your pack into one of my chareftes, turn your mule into my band, and let me have the reenforcement of your horse and rifle." This arrangement was highly WILLIAM GILPIN. 19 satisfactory to Gilpin, as it afforded him companion- ship and protection for a long distance. The party proceeded up the Kansas river, from the head of the Kansas over to the Platte, and followed up the Platte to the St Vrain fork. That being the boundary line and all beyond hostile, they remained there for some time, sending to Bent's fort for some hunters and fresh horses. Fremont's orders from the secretary of war were to make a line of survey to Walla Walla; and this he did, reaching there about the middle of October. Durmg the journey Fremont would occasionally leave the party and make little detours for the purpose of investigation, and Lieuten- ant Gilpin also followed this practice, thereby adding much to his knowledge of the topography of the coun- try. In one of these excursions Fremont arrived at Walla Walla some days before the rest of the party, and at once proceeded to Vancouver for supplies for his return journey. When Gilpin arrived at Walla Walla, he learned of Fremont's departure for Vancouver, and also that he had left his men in camp at the upper Dalles. From Walla Walla he proceeded to the upper Dalles, where he met an Irishman named Dougherty, a Welshman named Owen, and an American named Campbell, the latter a 3^oung man of good parts and [)leasant bear- ing. Archibald McKinley had charge of the fort at that point, and of him Gilpin procured some horse meat, potatoes, and some green tea which had once been used; also exchanging his pack-mule, Kitt}^, for a log canoe, and leaving his horse with McKinley. They embarked in the canoe, which was guided by an Indian pilot, and had an enjoyable trip down the river, thouo-h at times beino- in dano-er from the sav- ages who were fishing along the bank, until they arrived safely at the lower Dalles, where Fremont had left his camp in charge of Kit Carson. Three days later Fremont returned with five canoes loaded with supplies for bis homeward journey. During the 20 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. following night Gilpin's canoe was stolen by the Indians. Fremont had previously exhausted all his eloquence in endeavoring to induce Grilpin to remain with the party, but without avail. Fremont now turned over to Gilpin the five canoes to take back to McLaughlin at Vancouver. Arriving at that point he was welcomed with great hospitality by McLaughlin and the factors of the Hudson's Bay Company, and here he remained some two months, one of a congenial party that gathered at Vancouver, consisting of McLaughlin, Douglas, Ogden, McTavish, and the traders who happened to come in. It was customary for them to dine to- gether, either with McLaughlin or Douglas, and during his stay there Lieutenant Gilpin was very assiduous in acquiring as much knowledge as he could regarding the country, its resources, and the condition of affairs, and from his unrestrained intercourse with these people he learned much that was desirable to know. Often he would sit at dinner until ten o'clock at night, in conversation with some intelligent trav- eller. Finally the fur magnates decided that Gilpin knew too much for the interests of the great game preserve, and they endeavored to get him out of the country by one of their ships then lying in the river, and bound for the Sandwich islands. Of this earthly paradise they gave Gilpin the most glowing accounts, putting before him the advantage such a voyage would be to him, and offering him letters of introduction to Sir Hugh Pelley, and transportation to London, all at the expense of the Hudson's Bay Company. Finally the captain of this vessel, a shrewd Scotchman, in- vited Gilpin, and his most agreeable young friend Campbell, on board his vessel to dine with him. He introduced to them his best cabin, and told them that this should be their home as long as they desired. They sat down to dinner and enjoyed the appetizing efforts of an excellent cook, and also drank freely of WILLIAM GILPIN. 21 wine which the captain generously set forth, with occasional potations of brandy. During the evening the captain and young Campbell succumbed to the influences of good cheer, and made themselves com- fortable in corners of the cabin. Gilpin, but little inconvenienced by the fiery potations, after breakfast- ing on a tender, well-cooked duck, went ashore just after daylight and was met by Douglas, who seemed surprised at his quick return from the ship. The idea of these whole- soul and hospitable men had been to detain him on board the vessel until she could get to sea, and then rid themselves of one whose pro- nounced views and aggressive nature presaged dis- astrous antagonism. But in this they signally failed. From Vancouver Gilpin proceeded up the Willa- mette river to Oregon City. Scarcely had he arrived there when three Indians came into town and shot and killed three young Americans with poisoned arrows. Excitement ran high, and a few of the peo- ple gathered to see what measures could be taken to insure self-protection. There were various matters needing attention, everything political being at loose ends. It was decided to hold a convention on the succeeding 4th of March, for the purpose of organiz- ing some sort of a provisional government, and secur- inar recoo-nition from the United States. Doctor White was appointed to represent the Americans, Douglas to represent the English, and Lieutenant Gilpin to represent the western and Rocky mountain population, and these men were to bring about this convention. Douglas refused to serve, as it would interfere with his position with the English govern- ment. White refused for the same reason, that it would compromise him; and it was concluded that Gilpin should do what he could. He procured a guide, Joe Meek, and together they proceeded up the Willamette to the chief settlement, within about twelve miles of Salem, where there was a catholic mission. 22 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. The object was to notify the settlers of the pro- posed convention, and to induce every one to be present. Gilpin then went to Vancouver, and again endeavored to enlist McLaughlin and Douglas in the movement; after much discussion it was agreed that the attendants at this convention should unite as peo- ple of the Pacific coast, and without reference to any existing government. In the mean time a brief schedule of a provisional government was drawn up, which provided for an executive committee of three, for magistrates who should hold courts, and for con- stables; and finally for a committee in charge of this executive committee, to be finally chosen by them, to be ready to afford any assistance that they might be able to give, should any difliculty occur. Blubber Smith was made chairman, and two Canadians were vice-presidents. The schedule was adopted, and served its purpose until the territory became stronger. Lieu- tenant Gilpin drew up with great care a petition to the government of the United States, requesting, in the same vigorous language used by our grandfathers in the declaration of independence, that notice should be taken of the exposed condition of the people, flanked by the open sea where the fleets of the world could come in, surrounded by savages, with nothing to live upon, and harassed in many ways by reason of Brit- ish authority. When the meeting was about to adjourn sine die, Doctor White presented the petition for the consid- eration of the assemblage. The chairman at first ob- jected to have anything to do with foreign affairs, but consented that it should be read, and after hearing its contents, he unhesitatingly put his name to it; the two vice-presidents, who could not read or write, then made their marks, which were duly witnessed, and then the others signed. Thus was Lieutenant Gilpin appointed an agent of the people to lay the petition before the president of the United States. The petition further stated that though Oregon thus far had produced WILLIAM GILPIN. 23 nothing of value to the United States, yet with a little help, it would become an important factor in the government. Up to this time Gilpin had not been able to proceed west farther than the mouth of the Willamette, and he now determined that he would see the Pacific ocean without further delay. He procured a yawl with a single mast and a sheet for a sail, and then as a crew he took in a sprightly young sailor boy, a Missouri man named Chappel, and one Doc Newell. They rowed down the Willamette and out into the Columbia. After proceeding a short distance down the Columbia, it v/as noticed that they were not making much headway, and Gilpin suggested that they should go ashore and wait until the tide changed in their favor. At this Newell turned pale, and asked if the sea was really strong enough to take anything up stream. To prove it to him, Gilpin threw out some hay, which floated up past a snag, and caught thereon, much to the discomfiture of Newell. "When I find myself in a country where water runs up stream," he said, "I want to get out of it; it is no place for an Ohio man." "I am going to the ocean," said Gilpin, "and you must help me get there," at the same time guiding the boat out into the middle of the stream to prevent Newell from jumping ashore. The country was a sav- age wilderness, and should he be put ashore, he would probably starve to death or be killed by In- dians. But Newell said that he had a wife and chil- dren at home ; and so strong was his belief that sure destruction awaited a man who was rash enough to venture nearer to any such terrible body of water, that after about an hour spent in trying to convince him of his folly, they finally placed him "on shore and rowed away. At a saw-mill, a few miles farther down, they procured a Nez Perces Indian to take the place of Newell. When they reached the wide bay inside of Tongue 24 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. point, the waves were running high, and the wind blow- ing furiously. The remainder of the passage promised to be extremely hazardous. In rounding the point, Gilpin had the men lie down flat in the boat, while he took the sail and rudder and picked his way along shore, sometimes barely grazing the rocks; but after getting into the open channel, he had a fair wind down to Astoria, or Fort George, where the party was warmly greeted by the commander, who with his people had been watching the dangerous course of the boat, and wondering who its occupants could be. The following day Gilpin set out to make the last stage of his westward journey to the shores of the Pacific. Dense forests and almost impenetrable swamps had to be traversed, and the only guide procurable was a young Indian girl. They landed in the afternoon, and started into the woods to cross over to the beach. Soon darkness set in, and the situation became more depressing when their guide made the announcement, in her own terse manner, that she had lost the trail. Nothing further could be done until morning. Gilpin, after some difficulty, succeeded in starting a small fire, with the aid of a flint, and they remained there until daylight, though none of them slept. When morning came the trail was found, and in a short time they emerged upon Clatsop beach. Thus the great object of the journey from Jackson county had been accomplished. Gilpin took a plunge in the sea, and was then ready to retrace his steps. Among other curiosities on the beach, they found the skeleton of a whale, some forty- five feet long. The return journey to Astoria, and thence to Vancouver, was soon made, without special adventure. Arriving there, Gilpin applied to Mc- Laughlin for assistance to return home. The fur magnate placed at his service a canoe and five In- dians, with provisions, consisting of cured pork, which was scarce and expensive, and other articles of food, and on the 10th of April. 1844, he left Vancouver. WILLIAM GILPIN. 25 Arriving at the upper Dalles he exchanged his five Indians and one canoe for one Indian and five horses, swam the river below the Dalles, proceeded 250 miles through Washington territory, and recrossed at Walla Walla, where he was left alone. There he was obliged to wait for the annual brigade of supplies for Fort Hall, 900 miles distant, as it was not safe to make the journey alone. He found his horse safe; and when the brigade arrived under the command of Major Grant, he accompanied it as far as Fort Hall. Fort Bridger was the next objective point, and that was 300 miles farther on. At Fort Hall he met Peg- leg Smith, a powerful man, turbulent and tough, rude in manner, but of wonderful nerve and courage. While out on the plains with a wagon-train of sup- plies intended for Bent's fort, he was accidentally thrown from his wagon, and the heavy vehicle passed over his leg, crushing the bone below the knee, ren- dering amputation necessary. There was no physician within hundreds of miles, and he feared mortification would set in and consequent loss of life. Whereupon he made a saw from his butcher-knife, built a fire and heated a bolt from a wagon, and then cut the flesh to the bone, sawed the leg off, and drawing the flesh down over the wound he took the heated bolt and seared it over to prevent bleeding. This is not the only in- stance of similar heroism under the pressure of inex- orable necessity. This man had come to Fort Hall for powder, and Gilpin proposed to him that they should make the trip to Fort Bridger in company, to which Smith agreed. They could get no meat at Fort Hall, and the first night out they spent at Ross fork, with noth- ing to eat, and as a consequence were nearly famished. They accidentally killed a ground-hog and tried to eat it, but could not. The next day, the 3d of July, they started down the Point Neuf river, and were fortu- nate enough to shoot an antelope. They celebrated the 4th of July at Soda springs by eating antelope 20 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. and drinking soda-water, and were then ready to re- sume their journey to Fort Bridger. Arriving there, Gilpin engaged a young Mexican boy as his guide, and together they proceeded over the Uintah mountains, and down to the Grand river of the west, which they crossed, coming out upon the old Spanish trail used by Californians to drive their cattle from Los Angeles to San Antonio, Texas. Turning to the left as they entered this trail they soon parted from the Grand river. Once they camped on the banks of a small muddy stream, and had hardly unpacked when their horses galloped off, and joined others which soon appeared in sight. Investigation showed that there was an Indian camp close by. By this time Gilpin had learned to be a better Indian than the Indians themselves ; yet it was only by his coolness and brav- ery under the most trying circumstances that he escaped with his life on this occasion. He held a long conference with the Indians that evening, and another in the morning, during which he distributed a few trifimg presents among them, and on the latter occasion extreme measures were advocated by one of the chiefs; but by his very audacity Gilpin and his guide were permitted to depart unharmed. He rode thirty-eight miles that day, crossing the Bio Grande toward evening. After that he encountered no more savages, although he was obliged to be constantly on his guard. Sometimes a week would elapse without a gun being discharged, and at other times he would not dare to light a fire. Passing through San Luis park he reached Bent's fort, and from that point took the wagon -road to Independence. Arrivmg at the state line he found that the presi- dential election of 1844 was being held. On learning who were the candidates he at once voted for Polk. Although his vote was at first challenged, it was afterwards taken, Gilpin claiming that if he had not been residing in Missouri for some time past, he had not resided anywhere else. Arrived at Jefferson WILLIAM GILPIN. 27 City he was immediately tendered his old appoint- ment, that of secretary of the general assembly of Missouri, then in session, and which he accepted. The fame of his travels spread abroad, and he at- tracted much attention, letters pouring in upon him from all parts of the United States. The Oregon and Texas platforms had brought into existence the fundamental elements of the great army of pioneers, and they naturally turned to this young man who had traversed so much of the western territory. In the spring of 1845, after the legislature had adjourned and about the time Polk was inaugurated, he made a visit to his mother, on the Brandywine, and renewed his earlier associations in that quarter, his father being now dead. He went to Washington shortly after the inauguration of Polk. Among the new cabinet officers were many intimate family friends, among them Buchanan, Walker, Marcy, George Ban- croft, and others. He found himself heartily re- ceived at the capital. In the eyes of the people he was a hero. Washington was a large Virginia vil- lage at that time, and the kindness of so many dis- tinguished persons was gratifying after the hardships of his frontier life. Through all the flattering atten- tions he received he bore himself with that true quaker modesty which had been bred in him from boyhood. He called on James Buchanan, secretary of state, who recognized him at once, greeted him kindly, and requested him to recite the incidents of of his expedition to Oregon. This was done, and so interesting was it that Buchanan said, when Gilpin had finished: "You must come with me at once to the president and give him word for word, as near as you can, what you have told me. It is bewitching, and will be invaluable to us just at this time." He at once went to the president, and introducing Gilpin, said: "Here is my young friend William Gilpin, known to me from a boy. He is the greatest trav- '2S GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. eller of his age, and has given me such a clear, con- cise, and valuable account of his journey ings that I wish you to hear the same; and further, Mr Presi- dent, he does not desire an office." The president greeted him kindly, spoke of his friendship with his brother, Henry Gilpin, and seconded Mr Buchanan's request for an interview. This had been Gilpin's object from the beginning, and his dream of establish- ing an empire in the wilderness now seemed in a fair way to be realized. He repeated the account of his travels to the president, with his impressions of the country through which he had passed, a description of the climate and soil, the few settlers he had met, and their condition and necessities. His recital proved very gratifying to Mr Polk, who expressed his as- tonishment no less at the courage and enterprise of the young man than at what he heard regarding the condition of affairs in the west. Gilpin saw that an attempt would be made to overthrow Polk on the extension of territory question, as had been the case with Jackson on the currency question. His policy was that of Jefferson's, to push on to the Pacific and make safe all that vast country. As has been said. Lieutenant Gilpin desired no office. The idea of western dominion was with him greater than any position within the gift of the ad- ministration, or of the people, which would trammel his independence. He would have entertained no pro- position, he would have entered upon no road to honor or emolument, which would not have led in the direc- tion of his grand and animating conception. In the discussion of Oregon affairs, he was preeminently a most important personage. In speaking to bim, Sen- ator Benton said: "We are delighted to see you, and we are delighted with your conversations ; you are in a position to give us facts that we cannot find in any books; and you will find it universally satisfactory and to the pleasure of all our friends if you will return when congress opens." Of course Benton favored WILLIAM GILPIN. 29 Fremont, the husband of Jessie, but he was still friendly and cordial to Gilpin. So the Oregon trav- eller went away, and returned at the convening of congress, and was admitted to all the debates, with the freedom of the floors of both houses, which were then in the old rooms ; and often when a member was in the midst of a speech, he would turn to Gilpin and inquire as to some point with which he himself was not familiar. Senator Niles. of Connecticut and Senator Atchi- son of Missouri, who belonged to the committee on post-offices and post-roads, were both greatly inter- ested in Lieutenant Gilpin. Said the former: "All that you have stated not only surprises me exceed- ingly, but harmonizes with my sentiments; but it is all too new and I am too old to study it out in all its vast magnitude; if you will address a letter to Senator Atchison covering the subject, I will introduce a bill and lay it before congress, making my report intro- ductory to the same." The report was submitted March 2, 1846, and ordered to be printed, 3,000 copies more being ordered two days thereafter. The committee recomended the opening of a mail route from the western line of the state of Missouri to the mouth of the Columbia river. In this letter Mr Gilpin gave a full description of the condition of affairs in Oregon. He speaks of the population, the industries and products of the coun- try, also its position in relation to Japan and China, and the attitude of the Hudson's Bay Company. He then pointed out the advantages, or rather, the abso- lute necessity, of a transcontinental mail route. It is worthy of remark that Mr Gilpin was among the first to suggest and urge this measure, as well as those of steam communication via Panamd, and the overland railway. This much having been disclosed, congress and the people desired to know more. On the 16th of March Senator Semple addressed a letter to Mr Gilpin 30 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. requesting further information. Accompanying his answer was a full exposition of the natural resources and condition of the farthest west. He gave the geo- graphy and position of Oregon, showed the growth of America and the folly of restricting progress. He explained the possibilities of Pacific coast traffic, the geographical proportions of our national territory, the productive strength of America, the old and the new routes of commerce, the natural commercial affinity of the Americans and Asiatics, the dignity of the American position, and the necessity for further topo- graphic knowledge. Then he gave a fine dissertation upon climates, and on the physical character of the Pacific slope of the American continent. Next he speaks of the settlement of Oregon, the necessity of American sovereignty on this continent, the Euro- pean jealousy of America, concluding with some perti- nent comparisons. Altogether the report made a book of forty-seven pages, and coming just at this time, on the eve of the settlement of the Oregon question, the Mexican war, and the acquisition of California, its influence and importance cannot be estimated. Gilpin remained in Washington until the declara- tion of war against Mexico. Immediately after the battle of Palo Alto, a bill was passed entitled "An act to appropriate money for the existing hostilities between the United States and Mexico." Gilpin's petition from Oregon had been introduced in the sen- ate by Atchison, and was document No. 1 in both houses. After the declaration of war he had notified persons in Jackson county to raise a company, and they had saved a place for him, but this he did not want. From President Polk he obtained permission to call out one regiment of Missouri cavalry, and to call it the Army of the West. Upon reaching Inde- pendence he found that a company of 105 men had been raised, and had proceeded to Fort Leavenworth to be mustered in. WILLIAM GILPLV. 31 He at once proceeded to Fort Leavenworth, and there found six companies of the 1st regiment Mis- souri volunteers. Company A of this regiment was composed of his friends who were anxiously awaiting his arrival. Kearney was present, and as he did not feel kindly toward Gilpin he determined that he should have no command. Gilpin felt that he would be elected an officer if he could once oain admission to the company. He found in the company from Jack- son county a boy, sixteen years old, whose widowed mother had claimed his discharge on account of his youth, and Gilpin paid this boy eighty-five dollars for his place in the ranks. - Otherwise he could not have se- cured a place, as the company already numbered 105; but as they were strong, hardy, and desirable soldiers, they had been permitted to remain. Gilpin was a trained soldier from the school, and had also had ex- perience on the field, and he drilled the companies up to the time of the election of officers. Among the men was an old class-mate named Ruff. Some of the men were pleased to think they could prevent Gilpin from holding any office in the company, as he previ- ously had worked his way up to a 1st lieutenancy, and then despising that rank, had resigned. Well, the election proceeded. A man named Doni- phan was chosen colonel, and the election for lieu- tenant-colonel then came up. Doniphan desired Gilpin to have the place, but RufF was the candidate of the West Pointers. Ruff was elected by two votes. The office of major was still open. After the election had proceeded thus far, the regiment broke into confu- sion and declared that Gilpin should be major. Gilpin thereupon made them a speech of about twenty minutes' duration, after which he was informed that Kearney wished to see him in his office. He obeyed the sum- mons, and Kearney said: "I have received from the president an appointment for you as lieutenant-colonel of the 3d regiment, and I suppose this is followed by a life service if you choose. Had you not better with- 32 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. draw now and avail yourself of this appointment?" Said Gilpin, "I will not accept it." He felt it was a measure which would turn him from the west. He returned to the parade ground and was unanimously declared elected major, without the formality of ballot- ing. It spite of his age Gilpin had at that time more frontier experience than any of the officers ; his train- ing had been thorough and varied, and he was virtually master of the situation. The army entered Santa Fe in triumph on the 14th of August, 1846. Kearney had become homesick and desired to turn back. The army of the west at that time consisted of the 1st regiment Missouri volunteers, of which Gilpin was major, three companies of dragoons, a battery of volunteer artillery, a small battalion of infantry from Cole county, Missouri, and a small cavalry company from St Louis. Attached to the army were three hundred merchant wagons with their owners. They had laid in a stock of goods especiall}^ adapted to the Mexican country, and they now desired to keep on to Chihuahua, their destination. These teamsters were as good soldiers as any in the army, and assisted materially at the battle of Sacramento, which pre- ceded the taking of the city of Chihuahua. This battle, at which the Americans had less than 1,200 men in rank, was fought on the 28 th of February, 1847, beginning at 3 a. m., and ending at twenty minutes past ten in the evening. The Mexican army, according to Gilpin's estimate, had 5,250 soldiers, with five generals and 26 pieces of artillery. The Americans had about eight hundred men, including the teamsters, who guarded the corral; but not all reported for duty; there were four field-pieces and two mountain howitzers. The Mexicans were drawn up in line and the Americans began to manoeuvre. They marched past the Mexicans, who, not antici- pating such a measure, waited too long and were then forced to move suddenly and disorderly to prevent the American army from marching around them to WILLIAM GILPIN. 33 the city. As they turned to rectify their mistake the Americans charged them upon the tiank, captured their artillery, cut them in two, and defeated the two wings. The army then marched to Chihuahua, where it remained some three months. A dispute here arose between Gilpin and Doniphan, which involved the integrity of the expedition. The average age of the army was 22 years, and there was a difference of sentiment among the men, the younger ones wishing to push on into the Mexican country, and the others desiring to return. Gilpin's idea was this: that as they had possession of that magnificent city, and as the mint contained about $800,000, they should confiscate that money, as they had a right to do, as spoils of A\ar. Up to this time the army had not received any pay or recognition of their valor from home. Finally Doniphan agreed to call a court-martial and submit the question as to whether the army should retrace its steps, or push on to conquer the whole Mexican country. Thus far, besides doing their own work, they had done that which had been allotted to General Wool. Doniphan picked the members of the court-martial, such as would favor his views, as nearly as he was able ; but Gilpin had all the young men on his side. The ques- tion was put, and it was decided to push on to the city of Mexico. They then made a three days' march in that direction, Doniphan accompanying them, al- though protesting at every step, and oflfering to re- sign his command to Gilpin and return home. The third day they halted at San Felipe. Doniphan had left two companies at Chihuahua to guard the city ; also a number of the merchants who wished to sell out their goods. At San Felipe, on the following morning, when they were expecting to pursue their way, and while Gilpin was waiting for the order of march from Doniphan, to his surprise no such order came. What still more astonished him was to see Doniphan and several of his friends mount and take 34 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. the back trail to Cliiliualiua. One of Doniphan's men came up presently and said that the orders were that the whole army should return to Chihuahua, that the country was full of hostile bands, that the soldiers left at Chihuahua would be massacred, and that he would not expose them in such a manner; so the whole army turned back. Arriving at Chihuahua there was another discussion as to whether the army should return home or not, and Gilpin succeeded in preventing this. Doniphan finally agreed to compro- mise the matter, the Gilpin party agreeing not to resume the march to Mexico, and Doniphan not to return to Missouri. Doniphan wrote a letter to General Taylor, then at Monterey, stating the position and condition of the army of the west, and requesting orders where to go. This was forwarded by special messenger. Tay- lor's answer was, ''Come to me." So the}^ started. From Chihuahua they marched through the state of Durango to Buena Vista, where Wool's army was en- camped, and thence made a two days' march to Mon- terey. Over a year had passed away, and the fighting- was at an end. They had now but to return home, so after spending one day with Taylor, they proceeded to Mier on the Del Norte, which stream was too low for navigation; whereupon they kept on down the river for thirty miles, until they found transports. From there they went down to the mouth of the river, landing at Bagdad. The nearest harbor into which transports for New Orleans could come was Brazos Santiago. Here arrangements were made for the transportation of the army to New Orleans. Major Gilpin proceeded in advance with a personal guard of twelve men, taking the steamer Telegraiph to New Orleans, where he arranged for the reception and paying of the army. He was three days in New Orleans before the first of the force arrived, during which time he and his companions were guests of the city. The gallant young major had seen service in WILLIAM GILPIN. 35 the everglades of Florida, had been three years on the coast of Oregon, and eighteen months in the Mexican war, and his name was in every one's mouth. July and August the army spent in St Louis, where the twelve companies were discharged, and the people of Missouri were profuse in their attentions to the returned veterans. Major Gilpin was at this time suffering from the effects of malaria and touches of typhoid fever, and he concluded to go home to Inde- pendence to rest and recuperate. But for ten years the seeds of disease remained in his system. At a reunion of Doniphan's command, on the ninth anniversary of the battle of Sacramento, held at Sac- ramento City, California, the third toast was as fol- lows: "Major William Gilpin, the essence of chivalry, the disciplinarian of tlie regiment." To wliich senti- ment Senator Crenshaw replied: "I suppose I am chosen to respond to this toast on account of my intimate acquaintance with Major Gilpin. We were both in the same regiment, and from the position that I held, I had many opportunities of knowing that he possessed all the attributes expressed in the sentiment just read. It was to him the regiment was indebted for the military training it received. Colonel Doni- phan was in reality a citizen soldier. All his move- ments were characterized by a cool determination. The regiment was composed of the best men in the state of Missouri, young but courageous. During the whole of their adventurous^ march, traits of hero- ism were constantl}^ exhibited. But the crowning act was the battle of Sacramento. Upon the rolls that morning there were less than eight hundred men re- ported for duty, all told. By the books which after- ward fell into our hands, and which I have yet in my possession, the Mexican force that morning reported for duty over four thousand men The "Mexicans, besides, occupied a position protected by redoubts and ditches, and had a much superior artillery force. Be- hind Doniphan's men was a desert of two thousand 36 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. miles; they were three hundred miles distant from another American soldier; they were almost entirely bereft of food, and clothed in rags. The Mexicans were certain of an easy victory. They had already provided the thongs with which to pinion the Mis- souri Yankees. But the motto of the American was victory or death. I remember well seeing some of the thoughtful clip locks of hair from their heads, and give them to their comrades, to be sent to loved ones at home in ease they fell in battle. The Mexican cavalry charged, full of confidence. Not a shot was fired from our ranks until they had approached near enough to insure a dead aim. Then was heard the dreadful crack of the western rifle. The enemy melted before the murderous discharo;;e like grass before the scythe. Confusion took possession of their ranks, and they fled, leaving over two hundred dead upon the field. Many of the dead had received rifle-balls in their foreheads. But one American was killed, the lamented Owens, who was shot while charging upon the redoubt." During that summer the Indians broke out along the trail from Fort Leavenworth to Sante Fe, mur- dering the teamsters, robbing and burning the trains; and then came the news that the Indians had consoli- dated and were to unite seven tribes in an onslauo-ht upon the American people along the Arkansas. The vhite men, they said, should not have all the fighting, robbery, and pillage. The news created much excite- ment all through Missouri, and Polk became alarmed. He called a meeting of two or three of his cabinet oflficers, among them being Benton, and related what he had heard, expressing the fear that war would become universal, and that he would be severely criticised for allowing such a thing to occur. Benton then suggested a plan which was afterward carried out. It was probably about the end of August 1847, WILLIAM GILPIN. 37 when one day while Major Gilpin was lying in bed, with a physician in attendance, at his home in Inde- pendence, he received a visit from Governor Edwards of Missouri, who said: ''I come at the request of the president of the United States, to tell you of the anxiety he is in, and of his opinion that the war will spread and involve the whole of the southwest, and that these things would bring censure upon him," He went on to say that the president wished to know if Major Gilpin would raise an army of volunteers, take care of the Indians, and reopen communication with our army in northern Mexico. Major Gilpin replied: " I have gone through the Mexican war, and other labors such as I should not suppose were within the bounds of human endurance, and I have not a dollar left for my trouble ; what I have received does not amount to one third of what I have spent; I have seen no notice of my services, and I must decline this offer." Said the governor : "If you do not accept this mission, some inexperienced person will be put in, with no knowledge of what it has taken you twenty years to learn, and as a result, Missouri will be lost." "Very well, I will accept the mission on three con- ditions," replied the major: "first, if my health per- mits, and I think I shall soon recover; secondly, that I must sign my own orders as to where I shall go and what I shall do and how I shall do it, and that I shall recruit my men here in Missouri, where I can select such as are suited to the desperate service in which I am to be engaged and to be held accountable for ; and thirdly, that the president will be pleased to instruct all the generals who are now commanding points of supplies that whatever requisitions I shall make upon them must be filled without delay, either for supplies or for money." His intention, at once formed, was to make a winter campaign against the Indians, knowing that if they should unite in the spring they would sweep the whole of Missouri. Edwards communicated with Mr Polk, and reported 38 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. that the conditions made were satisfactory to him, and that instructions would be issued to that effect. As soon as Major Gilpin could leave his bed he raised eight companies, though he was obliged to take new men, as those who had participated in the Mexican war were not yet sufficiently recuperated for fresh service. He had a splendid battery of six guns from St Louis, two companies of infantry and two companies of cavalry, with additional men, attendants, wagoners, etc., in all about eight hundred and fifty strong. The arms were all shipped to Fort Leaven- worth, whither the force was sent, and were the best that could be procured. This was called Gilpin's battalion, of which he was lieutenant-colonel, there being no other field-officer. There was in com- mand at Fort Leavenworth Lieutenant-colonel Clif- ton Wharton, a distant relative of Colonel Gilpin, though the two were not upon the best of terms. The supplies had all arrived, provisions in abun- dance, wagons and arms, and nothing remained but to muster in the force, equip them, and start. Whar- ton at first refused to deliver to Colonel Gilpin the supplies or arms, saying it was an indiscreet thing to send a young boy out on the plains at the beginning of winter, into an Indian country. After several dis- putes, and being once placed under arrest by Wharton, Gilpin wound the matter up by preparing a challenge to fight Wharton, who, learning of it, was immediately taken ill. Calling Gilpin to him at his room, he turned over the supplies and arms to him, and in three days the force was equipped, and armed, ready to start; it moved forward on the 4th day of October. The sup- plies consisted of 200 wagons of provisions, 500 head of beef cattle, and fifteen wagons of ammunition. When but a short distance out from Fort Leaven- worth, a portion of the command mutinied ; but they were threatened with instant death, and finally sub- mitted. Without further incident the march was made to a spot just below the present site of Pueblo, WILLIAM GILPIN. 39 where they went into camp on the Arkansas bottoms, reaching there about the middle of November. At- tached to the force were two hunters, John H. Thatcher, who afterward located himself in California and became a prosperous fruit-grower, and a character called Big Bill Fallon. These men kept the force supplied with fresh meat all through the winter, so that it was not necessar}^ to kill the beef cattle which had been brought. During all this winter Colonel Gilpin was in miserable health, owing to a severe cold which he had contracted at the beginning of the march; nevertheless he showed himself among the men every day. Delegations of Indians came frequently to visit the camp, and Gilpin sent for the chiefs of the Cheyennes and Arapahoes, who were the owners of the country, saying to them : " I will send a commissioner with you, and you must go up between the forks of the Platte and never leave there until I tell you to come." Similar warning was sent to the Utes in the moun- tains. The winter was passed comfortably, and owdng to the abundance of supplies the men were all in good humor. The time was occupied in drilling the soldiers, which was done thoroughly, and after methods par- ticularly adapted to Indian warfare, and all preparatory for the spring campaign. The soldiers were expert rifle-men, who had been accustomed to barking squir- rels in the woods of Missouri, and they were soon masters of the necessary tactics. When the time for action came they moved along down the foot of the mountains, and down into the summer country of the Indians. Stopping at a small town in New Mexico, called Moro, where he procured a supply of flour, Colonel Gilpin pushed on, his object being to ascertain the lines by which the Indians were coming to their fighting-ground. The battle-ground where most of the fighting was done was about eighty miles from Foi't Mann, now Dodge City, along the southern bank of the Arkansas, 40 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. which had afforded the savages traps for ambuscades, and where white men had been killed for fifty years past. For a distance of five or six hundred miles, scattered all along the way, trains of twenty and thirty wagons were found deserted where the Indians had left them on previous raids, the occupants having all been massacred. This spot was selected for a depot for supplies, for the reason that the formation of the sand-hills rendered it difficult to discover any one in them. Running south into the Arkansas through these hills was a little stream called Crooked creek, and up this stream the Indians would come in the summer, where they could have water and be sheltered from observation. During the winter he camped all along the bottoms of the Arkansas, where the sweet cottonwoods grew, affording plenty of firewood, a space in which to drill, and some protection from the elements. He had In- dian lodges for the soldiers and corrals for the animals. At night they would strew the bottoms of the corrals with branches of the sweet cottonwoods, and from these branches the horses would strip every vestige of the bark. In this way the horses were kept in good condition, and the force was enabled to take the war-path two months before the Indians, with their emaciated animals, could move. During two months leisure he had the scouts locate all the various trails by which the Indians would come in ; the force was then divided into four fighting parties under good officers. These four companies were stationed at dif- ferent localities, and caught, in detail, the advancing tribes as they came in from every direction to join their confederates. On one occasion he learned that a party of Comanche warriors had left their camp on the Cimaron, and were on their way to the fighting-ground on the Arkansas. One of the divisions was sent down and destroyed the camp, and on the same day another division on the Arkansas attacked the party of war- riors and drove them off down to their home. This WILLIAM GILPIN. 41 party returned to camp without pursuing the Co- raanches, and Colonel Gilpin immediately detailed another division to carry out their work. In the in- terval, a party of sixty-three Pawnee warriors had come upon the trail of the retreating Comanches, and had followed it to see what it meant. The white men followed on down after the Comanches, and soon came up with the Pawnees, who were encamped in a grove. A short and sharp battle ensued, and only two Indians escaped. Nine battles were fought from the middle of July to the end of August, and 253 scalps of warriors were taken from first to last. On the 1st of November, 1848, the force arrived at Leavenworth, after a campaign of a little over a year. Meanwhile Colonel Gilpin's health instead of improving was almost destroyed. He remained at his home in Independence until May 1849, when it be- came evident to him that he must either die or secure the services of a physician who could cure him. Thereupon he proceeded to St Louis, where he placed himself under the care of Doctor Pope, an eminent physician of that city. He arrived there in the midst of the cholera season. The day previous to his ar- rival 361 deaths had occurred, and wherever he went he either saw crape on the door or the occupants of the house were attending the funeral of some friend. These melancholy surroundings were not conducive to his recovery; and learning that the disease was not so prevalent elsewhere, he went to Lexington, Ken- tucky, where he secured the services of Doctor Benjamin Dudley, the founder and head of the Tran- sylvania University. Dudley said : " You are the worst diseased man but one that I have seen in forty-five years of practice. Still, if you will follow my advice for a week, I will let you know whether I can cure you, or will have to let you die." At the end of the week Dudley said he would do 42 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. the best he could to keep him aUve. His vital func- tions had been sadly depleted during his years of frontier exposure, and only his iron constitution could have carried him through. Under such heroic treat- ment as raw calomel three times a week, mixed with ipecac and rhubarb, he began slowly to regain his health. While at Lexington his residence was in the old Phoenix hotel. The sentiment of secession was beginning to germinate, and many of the representa- tive southern men would consult with him regarding the situation. These individuals were very communi- cative, and he learned much of their half- formed plans, always taking care to get as much as he gave. After a hundred days or so had elapsed, he returned to St Louis, weighing 100 pounds, but on the road to re- covery. St Louis was the wintering point for the wealthy planters in that section, and in the winter of 1849-50 Colonel Gilpin participated as actively as his reduced physical condition would permit in the brilliant social events of the city. After a time, as he did not improve in health materially, lie bethought himself of an eminent physician of Philadelphia, Doctor Samuel Jackson, a man whom he had known in his younger days. His mother was living in Philadelphia -with her two daughters, and thither he proceeded and placed himself under treatment. He remained in Philadelphia during one summer, and then returned to his home in Independence. Living on his planta- tion was inexpensive, and a portion of his land he laid off as an addition to the town, from which he realized a small sum of money. In company with five others he also laid off Kansas City, which was first called Centropolis; but the name which the city now bears was determined by the voice of the people, who fell into the habit of calling it Kansas Cit}^ He remained in that locality until 1861, making occasional trips to Washington, Philadelphia,, New York, and St Louis, practising his profession at times, and leading rather a quiet life. WILLIAM GILPIN. 43 About the first of February of the year last named, he made a trip to St Louis, where he met General Hunter and General Sumner, who informed him that President-elect Lincoln was to start from Springfield for Washington upon the third morning thereafter, and as the party was small he was anxious to have in it some southern man who had voted for him in a slave state. Gilpin had cast the only republican vote in Jackson county, though he had been unable to pro- cure a printed ticket. Accordingly it was agreed that he should make one of the company. They joined the party at Springfield, which was transported to Washington in a small car holding but thirteen per- sons. On arriving at Washington he was one of a hundred men who slept in the White house as a per- sonal guard to the president. Inuiiediately after the inauguration he was asked if he would accept an appointment as governor of Colorado, as he was con- sidered the one indispensable man for the position. He immediately signified his willingness to do so. At the first cabinet meeting the matter was brought up, and Colonel Gilpin was nominated by Blair for the position. Cameron being present seconded the motion, whereupon the appointment was filled out, and unani- mously confirmed by both houses. He immediately received his commission from Secretary Seward. The time was indeed critical ; the nation was on the ragged edge of dissolution, and every member of the adminis- tration was worn out with anxiety. Cameron had agreed to furnish Governor Gilpin with instructions, but finally told him to write them out himself, and he, Cameron, would sign them. The day previous to his departure from Washington, Governor Gilpin was unable to see any cabinet member, and at 12 o'clock at night he took up his post in front of the White house, where he rightly surmised they were holding a consultation. Shortly afterward three persons came out and stood" on the porch conversing. Governor Gilpin recognized and spoke to them. They were 44 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. Cameron, Scott, and Lincoln. He informed Mr Lincoln that he had his commission in his pocket, and was ready to leave for Colorado. He further went on to say that it would be necessary for him to have money with which to pay expenses that must necessarily be incurred at the beginning. Said Mr Lincoln: "We have not a cent. I have just nego- tiated a loan of fifty millions of dollars from the banks of New York, and have called a special session of con- gress to meet on the 4th of July, to know if they will hang me for treason for this unconstitutional act. If you are driven to extremities you must do as I have done, issue drafts on your own responsibility." ''What shall I do for soldiers?" asked Gilpin. "If you need them, call them out as we have done, command them yourself, send your pay-rolls to me, and I will see that they are paid," said Cameron. "We will give you the rank of command of briga- dier-general." Both Lincoln and Scott acquiesced in this arrangement. He then bade them farewell and left them. Early in April he arrived in Denver. The only other member of the government then in the place was Secretary Weld, who had been residing here for some time. On alighting from the coach he was greeted by a dozen or so of his old acquaint- ances, the first comers to Colorado, who welcomed him heartily. Waiting upon him later in his room, they presented commissions from Medeira and Den- ver, governors of Kansas, expressed their faith in Gil- pin's ability and firmness, and requested him to renew their commissions. Said their spokesman: "If you want a legislature, call it and we will fill it for you, and we expect to have you on our side." But theirs was not the side of loyalty and integrity ; it was not Governor Gilpin's side; neverthless, it was deemed better to make propositions to neutralize their influ- ence than to provoke open hostilities. Therefore he said to them: "Gentlemen, I am much obliged for your kindness, but there is ample time to consider WILLIAM GILPIN. 45 this matter after I look around a little." The seces- sion flag was at the time flying from the Criterion, a theatre and gambling-house on Larimer street, be- tween 15th and 16th streets. The bill creating Colorado had been introduced by Green, a strong secessionist in congress, and this was done for the purpose of establishing slavery in Colorado, and the powers granted were pure despotism. Gilpin was present at the time the bill was passed, and it origi- nally was to establish Jeflerson Territory, but at Gil- pin's suggestion the name was changed to Colorado. The newly appointed governor found the secession element in full blast; he found also a provincial gov- ernment, and a regiment of mounted riflemen, sixty- nine strong, organized and furnished with arms. Governor Gilpin found the situation a trying one; and just how to use the power which had been con- ferred upon him could only be determined by careful consideration ; but his plans were ultimately formed with methodical exactness. x^ He despatched a man who was secretary to Russell, one of the owners of the stage Une, to Central City, where were the most of the men he had to deal with, a nest of secessionists, to say that on Thursday, at three o'clock, he would be there to address the people. This was on Tuesday. Promptly at the hour appointed he was on the spot, and delivered a lengthy address upon the political and social condition. An Irishman named Kavanaugh attempted to reply to the gov- ernor's speech, but he had proceeded only a few mo- ments when the assemblage took offence at his remarks and prevented his continuing. Subsequently Governor Gilpin made a tour to the principal settlements and mining camps throughout the territory, speaking in them, and advocating the cause of the union. On this trip the marshal of the territory accompanied him for the purpose of taking a census. In summing up results after his tour of speech-making, he. found that he could rely on the 46 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. people to stand by the union cause by eight hundred and fifty majority. Then he had the secessionists to deal with, and he prosecuted this work with vigor and ^promptitude. He mustered in a tew soldiers, but they were without arms, while the secessionists were well armed. He managed to gather from the loyal people a number of old rifles and muskets, many of them broken and useless, and pistols without locks; and with these he made a fair showing for a time. The mails had been stopped, and provisions were very scarce. The secessionists were recruiting constantly, and many en- listed with them merely because they were starving. All eyes were upon the chief executive, and by a judi- cious display of the useless arms he succeeded in keep- ing matters quiet for the time. The second regiment of United States dragoons had been stationed at Fort Crittenden in Utah during the Utah war. That being over, the troops started east. When they arrived at Laramie, Governor Gilpin made known" his situation to Pleasanton, who was in com- mand, and he at once placed at the governor's disposal eighteen wagons containing 1,800 new Mississippi ri- fles, with a large supply of fixed ammunition. By this means Colorado was saved. A man named Slough, who had been mayor of Denver, was appointed captain of the forces, and Logan was appointed first lieutenant. Camp Weld was constructed near the city, and here the troops were drilled daily. The government was thus fully established. The governor made a code of laws, which was received by the people with satisfac- tion. This was early in December 1861. In procur- ing supplies for the one company of infantry, and two companies of cavalry which were now mustered in. Governor Gilpin was obliged to follow Lincoln's plan of raising money for the United States. He drew what was necessary from tlie merchants of Denver, giving them therefor drafts upon the United States govern- ment. At the end of every thirty days a special mes- ^^'1LLIAM GILPIN. 47 senger took them to Washington, where payment was.at first refused; but finally a government agent was sent to Colorado, and all the indebtedness paid. The total amount of drafts drawn and paid during the campaign was $227,500, which covered all the expenses of the government. The Texan army under Sibley marched up and took possession of Santa Fe, and friends of Governor Gil- pin immediately brought the news to Denver, The forces here at once pushed on to Fort Union, march- ing over Raton pass in the dead of winter. General Rene Paul, a first cousin to Governor Gilpin's wife, was in command there, and received the Colorado troops, re-armed and re-clothed them, all in a single da}^ The Texan army, having captured Canby and his forces, were at Santa Fe resting and preparing to move upon Fort Union, where there were thirty thousand stand of arms. In SIouqIi's command was a man named Collins, who had guided the American troops into Chihuahua, and who was familiar with all the mountain trails around Apache canon. With a portion of Slough's men he went over a trail, got in behind the Texans, and at daylight camped whore they had left their wagons, they in the mean time having advanced through the caiion. They were at- tacked at the mouth of the canon by Slough with such vigor that they were forced to retreat. Arriving at their camp they found it destroyed, all their sup- plies and provisions having been found by Collins, whereupon they broke up and scattered. This was the battle of Glorietta, Toward the latter part of 1862, Governor Gilpin received a request from President Lincoln to come to Washington, if he could be spared, which was com- plied with. Notwithstanding all that Governor Gil- pin had done for Colorado, essentially saving the country to the union, his enemies were ever actively at work circulating false statements and stirring up strife, and it was deemed advisable to make a change. 48 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. Governor Gilpin set out for home on the 8th of Janu- ary, 18(52. Soon after his return to Colorado, he re- ceived a letter from Seward, saying that the territory was in a very dangerous condition, that they did not know what would become of it, and requesting him to remain as governor until his successor should arrive at Denver. He was succeeded by John Evans, of Illinois. On his return from the Pacific coast in 1844, Gov- ernor Gilpin had stopped for rest at Bent's fort, and while there he had familiarized himself with the Mexi- can system of grants, and especially with the location of four large tracts, among them being the Sangre de Cristo rancho consisting of a million acres granted to Don Carlos Beaubien, and located in San Luis park. Returning to this country after the Mexican war, he had secured a floating; g^rant of one hundred thousand acres, which he succeeded in locating in December 1862, along the northern boundary of New Mexico and the southern boundary of Colorado. While en- gaged in perfecting this title, he received a message from Don Carlos Beaubien, whom he had met some time before, requesting that he might see him at Taos on a matter of importance. He immediately proceeded to Taos, accompanying the messenger on his return. He found Ber.ubien, and held a long con- ference with him. Ijeaubien stated that he was now sixty-three years of age, had liv--^ nj^on the frontier the greater part of his life, and desired t > return with his wife to his birthplace, a few miles below Quebec, Canada. He stated further that he had n perfect tiole to the Sangre de Cristo grant of a million acres, and that he desired to dispose of the same. Governor Gilpin was familiar with the location and character of tlie land, and was desirous of securing possession of it. They fixed the price, and he was given the refusal of the land until the 4th of March, 1863, while in the mean time he would endeavor to raise the requisite money from his friends. WILLIAM GILPIN. 49 He returned to Santa Fe, where he concluded arrangements which perfected the title to his float, which he had located, and then proceeded to Denver' arriving here on the 21st day of February. While engaged in writing letters to his friends for the pur- pose of raising money, Bela M. Hughes arrived and proposed to him that he should accompany him to Salt Lake City, whither he was going to defend' a brother of Ben HoUaday, who was in prison on a charge of murder. Th Hiking he could return in time to receive answers to his correspondence, which would be in about thirty days. Governor Gilpifi consented to this proposition But mstead of returning direct from Salt Lake City he was persuaded to accompany Frank Clark, treas- urer of Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express between ^alt Lake City and San Francisco, to Sacramento. While drivmg m the latter place with Clark one day, they were thrown from their carriage, and Clark was killed, Governor Gilpin being so seriously injured that his recovery was despaired of. For forty-seven days he lay in bed in Sacramento, requiring assistance even to turn over. As he convalesced, he remem- bered friends of his in San Francisco, the Donahues. When Donahue and a friend of his were on their wav to California in an early day, they were both taken ill at Independence, and Governor Gilpin had there ren- dered them valuable assistance. He now wrote to Donahue, stating his position, and requesting a loan ot a thousand dollars. The money came by return mail, as did also an invitation from Donahue to visit him at his home in San Francisco. As soon as he was able to be up he accepted the invitation, and was elegantly entertained. On leaving San -b rancisco by steamer via Panama for New York Governor Gilpin received from Donahue a letter to a friend m New York, and through his influence he secured a loan of thirty thousand dollars from the banking house of Duncan Sherman & Co., with which 50 UOVERNMKNT— COLOEADO. to make the payment on the Sangre de Cristo grant. Early in March he left for Colorado, bearing with him thirty certificates of deposit for a thousand dol- lars each. Arriving in Denver he at once started for Beaubien's home, accompanied by an acquaintance from Denver, and on arriving at the entrance to Sangre de Cristo pass, he met an old friend, who in- formed him that Beaubien was dead. He inquired of his friend if he thought there would be any use of l^roceeding farther, and was informed that Beaubien, just before his death, had called his wife and children around him, and instructed them that the grant be- longed to Governor Gilpin, and that it must be trc^ns- ferred to him in case he paid the money. Encouraged by this report, the governor hurried on and met the family. The deeds were drawn up, the money paid over and divided among the wife and children of Beaubien, and the transaction was complete. The summer of 1863 Governor Gilpin spent upon his million-acre tract, w^ith five surveyors and seventeen prospectors, running out the lines and prospecting for minerals. They found thereon a great many gold mines. The next winter he went to New York and there endeavored to negotiate a sale of the land; but while New York capitalists favorably entertained the proposition, they did not have sufficient confidence in the resources of the country to invest their money in the wild lands of the Bocky mountains. He then consulted with Morton Fisher, a friend of his who had assisted him in securing the loan of thirty thou- sand dollars, and they decided that it would be best to place the land upon the London market. Finally it was decided that Fisher should go to London, while Governor Gilpin should return to Colorado and look after the property there. Fisher put forth every effort to find a sale for the property in London, but was unsuccessful. He then determined to go to Holland, at the suggestion of an American who was practising law in London, and WILLIAM GILPIN. 51 who had been very successful in placing along the Rhine the bonds of the eastern division of the Union Pacific railway, and see what could be done there. They went to Amsterdam and were successful in sell- ing 500,000 acres at a dollar an acre. Governor Gilpin was at once telegraphed for, and immediately proceeded to Amsterdam. Some little delay was caused by the breaking out along the Rhine of the war between Bismarck and Napoleon, but this was terminated by the battle of Sedan, and by the 17th of January, 1871, the money was deposited in the bank of England, and the sale consummated. The novelty of this transaction went abroad among the brokers, and at- tracted wide-spread attention. General Palmer ar- rived in Amsterdam just after the completion of the sale, and succeeded, through the influence of Governor Gilpin, in raising $60,000 to assist in constructing the Denver and Rio Grande railway, which was to run near the grant. Thus we have presented before us the varied ex- periences of an active and useful man, of one who through a long period of public service performed many acts of the highest importance to the common- wealth, saving the country from bloody wars and revolution, and preserving it for a glorious reign of peace; and small was his reward. The true patriot, instead of enriching himself at the cost of his country, too often brings down upon his devoted head the enmity of all. But it is the province of history to vindicate the just. There were times after the expiration of his term of office in Colo- rado when the former governor of the territory, he who had saved to the nation millions of dollars, had not twenty-five cents with which to buy his breakfast ; nevertheless, when once his talents were directed toward himself, and for the provision of his family, he found no great difficulty in making a million or two of dollars. 52 GOVERNMENT- COLORADO. Governor Gilpin married on the 12th of February, 1874, Mrs Juha Pratt Dickerson, of St Louis, widow of Captain Dickerson of that city. Mrs Gilpin had four children as the result of her first marriage, and of the second marriage there were born William and Mary, twins, May 12, 1875, and Louis, July 10, 1877. William and Mary are delightful children in every way, filled with the ethereal atmosphere in which they were born and have always lived. Mary has undoubted musical talent, and possesses a fine physique, graceful as Diana or Minerva. She has all the ideas, judgment, and caution of a woman of mature years; she is gentle, wholly without guile, affectionate, and a patient student. She commands every one who surrounds her, but in a gentle and sweet manner. She is an enigma of goodness. William is very bright and studious. He has a fine mechanical mind, full of couragfe and vio^or. His father selects for him inter- estinpf and instructive books, such as Plutarch's Lives, and in studying, he is required to give particular at- tention to arithmetic. Louis, the youngest child, has all these tastes. He is very graceful of movement, impetuous and full of energy and self-reliance, gentle, affectionate, and at- tentive to words of advice. Governor Gilpin has strong domestic tastes, is warm-hearted and kind in his family, and exceed- ingly devoted to his children, who are his pride and joy. His studious habits he continues, delighting in generalizations from the immense store of knowledge treasured up in his mind. He is specially partial to biography, the Life of Agricola by Tacitus, the Life of Gromwell by Carlyle, PhttarcJis Lives, Count WalleJistein by Shiller, SoutJiey's Nelson, Shakspeares Hamlet, Na- poleon's Julius Caesar, Voltaire's Peter the Great, and Tliierss Napoleon being among his favorites. In 1860 Governor Gilpin published a work entitled The Central Gold Region. Three hundred copies were printed and distributed to the leading statesmen and WILLIAM GILPIN. 53 scholars of the day. In 1874, when slavery had been for some time abolished, and peace restored had began to perfect itself, he wrote a kind of peroration as to how these and kindred powers of evolution should result, in the form of a book entitled 3Iissio')i of the North American People, Geographical, Social, and Poli- tical; Illustrated by six charts, delineating the Physical Architecture and Thermal Laws of all the Continents. In it the mountain formation of North America is first given'; then the cordillera of the Sierra Madre; the plateau of North America ; the Sierra San Juan ; the South pass of America ; the great basin of the Mississippi; pastoral America; the system of the parks; thermal America; a chapter on power; con- cluding with three chapters on the North American mission. In an appendix are given a few of the more conspicuous speeches of Mr Gilpin, on such subjects as the Mexican War; the Pacific Railway; and the geographical features of the Rocky mountains. The maps delineate the mountain system, the thermal belts, and the system of parks of North America, and a map of the world delineating the contrasted longi- tudinal and latitudinal forms of the continents, the iso- thermal zodiac and axis of intensit}'- round the world, and the line of the Cosmopolitan railway and its longi- tudinal feeders. The theories which we find elucidated in this work may be epitomized as follows: We represent English stock that runs back to the time of Alfred, and to the time of the formation of the Roman provinces in the reign of Claudius. We belong to a people who early accepted Christianity. Our ancestors were devotees and followers of Cromwell, and held by him until he established the commonwealth of England. There was reconstructed a Roman empire with christainity, education, and science, as bases of progress, an empire of 350,000,000 of people with Queen Victoria at the head. The American people are here on a fallow conti- 54 (GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. iient, and all their institutions are based upon the development of the people: First, democrary, rightly understood, reduced to practice — the sovereign power placed in the people. We have this continent which is able to feed mankind; we have no occasion, like the Romans, Greeks, or Spaniards, to make conquests or massacres, but we move on, and here are the Euro- peans swarming on one side and the Chinese on the other; but we shall take care of ourselves, and de- velop upon this intermediate and sublime continent a master nation, and do our work, and if the outside world pleases to attack us, uniting as they did against Napoleon, they could not even land on our continent; and in the mean time we are giving a successful ex- ample to Ireland and France, and to the socialists and nihilists. We are now by progressive experi- ments in possession of all the elements of political and social science. Under the leadership of Washington and Franklin, of Jefferson, Jackson, and like men, the American people have brought democracy to be rightly under- stood and reduced to practice. First they have abso- lute sovereignty; the people decide everything; we have 11,500,000 votes cast in one day, where each man expresses his opinion of tlie government. The first thing the people did, the first use they made of this relegation of sovereignty which it took three generations standing under fire to protect, has been to establish universal, perpetual, and compulsory edu- cation ; and we are now becoming matured in our declaration of independence, the federal constitution, and the constitutions of the states. We have a peculiar system of balance in choosing the presiden- tial electors, which was the best that could be in- vented by the men who did it; and the people, understanding this, are adapting themselves to the enlargement and extension of society and its wants. Every thirty years a new generation comes in, and if there is anything not suited to the times, they elimi- WILLIAM GILPIN. nate it; and if there is anything newly invented, they put it into their constitution as a discovery, whether it be of political or social science. We have all kinds of population, the pioneer popu- lation making farms, the manufacturing population producing for us, and the laboring population. We have a broad belt of temperate zone extending from sea to sea. In Europe there are monarchies and bar- barisms which are perpetually fighting and slaughter- ing one another. Here our genius takes another turn. We are a complete nation, living in harmony; we have tried a great many things that never were tried before. Our mission is to plant empire in the wilder- ness. When we cross the Atlantic and come here our world opens to the way, our arena of effort widens. We have this great concave continent, with the modifications of the temperate zone, the seini- tropical zone, and the arctic zone. In the semi-tropics we can cultivate the semi-tropical fruits, oranges, ba- nanas, etc., and rice and sugar, and cotton for our sum- mer wear and for the summer clothing of the world ; and then above that comes the region of Indian corn and pork; the broader belt of wheat, cattle, and horses; and wool for the winter clothing of the world; hides for the leather of the world; also wine, liquors, and tobacco; and above that the belt of oats and hay; and then we have barley. These belts are all united by the longitudal rivers ; and now we are putting railroads on all their banks. Then belts of temperate warmth are thus echeloned across our continent, from east to west like the streaks of the rainbow. Various atmospheres envelope us, the cloudy, or aqueous, covering about four fifths of the earth's surface; then at a height of four or five thousand feet, the aerial atmosphere, to which the heavier clouds cannot attain. Here is the only ethereal or continental climate that the human race can profitably enter. The Cosmopolitan railway across Bering strait will connect the systems of America with the systems of Asia and Europe; that 56 GOVERNMENT— COLORADO. this is possible you have only to ascertain the facts regarding the physical features of that region. In- deed, we are now in the very midst of this new de- parture, we are now upon the plane of this higher civilization, and yet all the while advancing and expanding. We have abolished aristocrats and plebeians, and have established patrician democracy, and this has been done by universal suffrage and perpetual educa- tion, which are the elements that expand and preserve it, until we find what is wrong and weed it out, and what is right and congeal it. Literature preserves and creates lives; while the bad dies out of all we have from antiquity, the good only has lived. Evo- lution proves this. America is now getting her continental dimen- sions, and the people who control the North Amer- ican island are forming themselves into a pioneer army which plants empire in the wilderness, not by slaughter, as did Csesar and Alexander and the Span- iards; it takes the nations of the world which they slaughtered and peoples the wilderness under a policy of peace and industry. In regard to the plateau of North America, the author says that it is little understood, even by those who travel over it, extending from Tehuantepec to the polar sea, with a genial altitude of 6,000 feet, the mountains on either side being 12,000 feet high; it has an area of 11,000,000 square miles, and is almost everywhere easy of access. It has seven great basins, namely, the valley of Mexico, the Bolsom de Mapimi, the Rio Bravo del Norte, Colorado, Great Salt Lake, the Columbia, and the basin of Fraser river. The climates are dry, altitude and aridity tempering the heat toward the south, and the cold toward the north. The soils are fertile, both for agricultural and pasto- ral purposes. Governor Gilpin did much to advance the idea of a Pacific railway, and at a time when the prospect was ,0 to ZQ 30 40 50 60 70 flu 90 100 110 liC liO \f- ^-^ 40 r.O 6 -.0 90 10 iici I.":!:' 130 leo i7o lao 150 1*0 no ; ^0 no iOO 90 90 T' ISC 1'tO i?ri 120 no 100 WILLIAM GILPIN. 57 thought by many to be chimerical, giving it the aid of both tongue and pen. In a speech dehvered at Wakerusa, now Lawrence, Kansas, and again at In- dependence, he says: ''We perceive in the formation of the American continent a subhme simpHcity, an economy of arrangement singular to itself, and the reverse of what distinguishes the rest of the world. The continents of the old world resemble a bowl placed bottom upward, which scatters everything poured upon it, whilst northern America, right side up, receives and gathers toward its center whatever falls within its rim. In geography the antithesis of the old world, in society it will be the reverse. North America will rapidly attain to a population equalling that of the rest of the world combined, forming a single people identical in manners, language, and im- pulse, preserving the same civihzation, imbued with the same opinions, and having the same political lib- erties." In a speech delivered at St Louis on the 8th of January, 1850, on the then existing Indian policy. Colonel Gilpin said: "There is observable an ar- rangement of our people, in general, in these propor- tions : Agriculturists in the middle, southern, and central states, producers of articles for foreign ex- port, are seventy per cent of the whole population of the union; agriculturists of the commercial states, producing food for the immediate consumption of their commercial cities, twenty per cent; commerce proper, which also includes manufactures, ten per cent." After the lecture a number of resolutions were offered and passed. In London, in 1870, was pubHshed Notes on Col- orado; And its inscription in the Physical Geography of the North American Continent, by William Gilpin, Governor of the Territory of Colorado. It is a 16 mo brochure of 52 pages, and its contents were spoken before a laroe audience, under the auspices of the 58 GOVERNMENT— COLOHADO. British Association of Science, at Liverpool, on the 26th of September of that year. It was one of Mr Gilpin's ablest eftbrts. It opens in this wise: '* A glance of the eye thrown across the North American continent, accompanying the course of the sun from ocean to ocean, reveals an extraordi- nary landscape. It displays immense forces character- ized by order, activity, and progress. The structure of nature, the marching of a vast population, the creations of the people, individually and combined, are seen in infinite varieties of form and gigantic di- mensions. Farms, cities, states, public works, define themselves, flash into form, accumulate, combine, and harmonize. The pioneer army perpetually advances, reconnoitres, strikes to the front. Empire plants itself upon the trails. Agitation, creative energy, industry, throb throuofhout and animate this crowdino- delusfe. Conclusive occupation, solidity, permanence, and a stern discipline attend every movement and illustrate every camp. The American realizes that progress is God. He clearly recognizes and accepts the conti- nental mission of his country and his people. His faith is impregnably fortified by this vision of power, unity, and forward motion." In another place it says: "It fell to my lot, during the years from 1840 to 1845, alone and in extreme youth, to seek and chalk out, in the immense solitudes filling the space from Missouri to China, the lines of this dazzling empire of which we now hold the oracular crown, to have stood by its cradle, to be the witness of its miraculous growth." Thus in perusing the life of William Gilpin, the philosophic reader cannot fail to have noticed under- lying principles governing all ; strong currents of original and practical thought sweeping before them old-time dogmas and superstitions. His grea+ mind, like Humboldt's, absorbing and retaining all knowl- edge, in his elucidations thereof he seems like one WILLIAM GILPIN. 59 perched above the world, and taking in at one glance all lands and all times. He sees the several continents surrounded by the several oceans, the continents of Europe and Asia being convex in their configurati«5 %\4. iSh , t^^ ^^0^ :^ )^' Wf^ m ^