TS 1309 B16 Copy 2 Class _ Rnnk i^^' i Clothes Dictionary Copyrighted 1901 By Cahn, Wampold & Co CHICAGO The Gist-of-Things Library Vol. II CLOTHES DICTIONARY Quickly stated definitions gleaned from technical dictionaries and other books, and that current trade lingo that no book has yet set forth. V'i oJ^Ji-n^ . tJ . "Ki PUBLISHED BY CAHN, WAMPOLD & CO. CHICAGO, ILL., U.S.A., 190 ^--H A \-^\ ixC 71. ih^ |-274Ti Preface 'T'HE first thing that a business man should know, is — the little things of his business. There is nothing scholarly in this book of short easy helps to that which every clothing maker, buyer, seller and handler should know, but nine times out of ten does not know. This is only a book intended for quick reference rather than thoroughness; it is not even complete; but, such as it is, the compilation is reliable. Go to the encyclopedia for exhaustiveness: weVe accomplished a great deal if this sends you to the encyclopedia. Not one of us knows as much as we might upon the familiar aspects of our trade. The Editor. [ 3 ] A Acid Test — A general term employed to designate a means of determining the quality of anything, fabrics for instance ; as boiling a piece of suspected cloth in a solution of potash, in which the wool or silk is consumed, but any cotton therein remains ; testing the color of indigo with a mixture of acetic and sulphuric acids ; etc. For more exhaustive explanations see any good encyclopedia. Agraffe — An ornamental clasp, loop or lock. Albert — See Prince Albert. Albert Cloth — Reversible all-wool materials, each side of different colors, and so finished that no lining is required ; used chiefly for overcoats ; better known as "golf cloth," "plaid-back coverts," etc. Alizarine — An absolutely fast color dye substance, formerly obtained from madder root, but now in large quantities from anthracene, a coal-tar product. Alpaca — A thin, glistening, double-fold fabric, with a fine cotton warp ; made from the curly hair of an animal of the camel tribe, found in South America. Armure — A cloth woven in miniature imitation of feudal metal armor plates, [ 5 ] H heraldic devices, diamonds, birdseye and seeded effects. Astrakhan — A woolen or silk material with a long and closely curled pile in imitation of the fur. B Backed Cloth — Worsteds or other fabrics which are woven with an extra layer of warp or filling underneath the face fabric, usually for increased weight and bulk. Backshop — A tailor's workshop. Bannockburn — A sort of tweed. Barrackan — In Mediterranean countries a camel's-hair cloth for men's wear ; in England a sort of moleskin. Also spelled barragon. Basket Weave — Cloth woven in imitation of basket work. Bastard — Any fabric woven in imitation of better and more expensive. Bath Robe — A long gown for wear between bath room and dressing room. Batting — Cotton or wool prepared in sheets for quilting or interlining ; see padding, Beaver — Similar to Kersey, but with longer nap ; soft, thick nap inside. Beau — A man devoted to the care and adornment of his person and to matters of social etiquette ; a dandy ; a fop. [ 6 ] DICTIONARY Beaverteen — A sort of heavy cotton terry cloth used for men's hunting garments. Bedford Cord — A close-woven woolen cloth, having a raised corded surface, similar to pique. Belt — A strap or band worn around the waist. Belt Straps — Loops or straps sewn at intervals around the waist of trousers, for the insertion and the holding in place of a belt, the object being to dispense with suspenders. Bias — Diagonally. Bishop — Trade term for extra length overcoats for tall men. Blazer — A light summer coat, most frequently of flannel and in bright colors. Blind-Eye — A practically indistinguishable loop, hand made of thread. Blood — A gallant. Blouse — A sort of loose overshirt or jacket. Body Coat — A dress coat ; a close-fitting coat ; a livery coat. Boucle — A loosely woven fabric with a curly hair surface, frequently made with jersey or stockinet body. Bourette — An effect of weaving produced by fancy yarns showing in lumps at intervals over the face of the cloth. Bournous — A long woolen cloak, with hood, worn by men in the Orient. [ 7 ] H BowLEGGED — Parenthetical. BoxcLOTH — Similar to Pilot cloth, thick and fulled, with Kersey face. Box Coat — A short, loose-fitting topcoat; coachman's driving coat. Braid — A narrow band or tape made of plaited silk, wool or cotton ; of various patterns. Brandenburgs — Long, narrow, ornamental buttons, of silk or wool, on a wooden mold ; used chiefly on military overcoats. Breeches — Knee trousers. Brilliantine — See Mohair. Broadcloth — A very fine woolen cloth with a glossy finished surface, the better grades being made with a twilled back. Broadfalls — See "front falls." Buck — A dandy. Buckle — A fastening device. Buckram — A coarse, heavy, plain-woven linen or cotton material used for stiffening. Buckskin — A stout doeskin with a more defined twill. Bushelman — A tailor or workman who does alteration and repair work. Butternut — The coarse brown homespun cloths and jeans woven prior to the civil war. Colored brown with dye from the butternut tree. Button — A catch of various forms and materials for fastening the various parts of a garment. See encyclopedia. [ 8 ] D ICTIONARY Camelshair — An extremely soft and silky fabric usually woven like cheviot. Canonicals — Clergymen's official clothing, as prescribed by canon. Canton Flannel — A stout twilled cotton cloth with a nap on one or both sides. Canvas — A heavy linen or cotton cloth of plain weave. Cape — Circular covering for the shoulders ; the inside yoke of a coat. Cape Coat — An overcoat with a cape and with or without sleeves. See Inverness. Cardigan Jacket — A close fitting ribbed woolen or worsted body jacket, with or without sleeves. Card — To comb out or dress. Carding — The process of opening up the fibre of wool, flax, hemp, silk, etc., for the purpose of cleaning them of foreign matter and rendering the material fine and soft preparatory to spinning it into yarn. Cassimere — A general term for all-wool fabrics woven either plain or twilled, coarse or fine, of "woolen" yarn. The pattern is always woven in plain and distinct, and the cloth is never napped. Cassock — A long clerical coat ; a military cloak. Castor Beaver — A heavy, milled, CLOTHES face-finished, all-wool cloth, a little lighter in weight than ordinary beaver. Check — A small plaid design made by different colors, crossing at right angles. Chesterfield — A single-breasted, fly-front overcoat, of medium length, plain back ; also a cutaway frock coat for stout men, with four buttons, the top one only used. Cheviot — A twill-woven, rough-finished woolen fabric. Chevron — In weaving, a pattern characterized by zigzag lines or stripes ; herringbone. Chinchilla — A thick, heavy, double woven fabric, with a long napped surface "Curled up into little tufts in imitation of Chinchilla fur. Chin-Latch — A small placket for closing the aperture of a turned-up coat collar. Clan Tartan — The plaids of the various highland clans of Scotland. Clawhammer — See full dress. Clay — A name given to serges, worsteds and diagonals woven after the process of J. & B. Clay, of Huddersfield, England. Clerk — An absolutely impeccable individual. Clothier — One who sells ready-to-wear clothing. Coat — The principal garment of men's attire. Coating — Those woolen and worsted fabrics most particularly adapted to DICTIONARY men's dress and overcoats. Collar — The neckband of a coat ; a detachable linen neckpiece, etc. Color Test — General term for the various means of determining the purity or fastness of colors, which may be by means of exposure, washing, chemical processes, etc. See encyclopedia. Combing — The process of arranging the fibers of wool, mohair, silk, cotton, etc., into a parallel condition and of equal length, preparatory to spinning into a smooth, even and regular yarn ; the perfected application of the carding principle. Cope — An ecclesiastical vestment of silk or brocade. Corduroy — A thick cotton pile material, corded or ribbed on the surface. Corkscrew Worsted — So called from its fancied resemblance to the twists of the corkscrew. Cotton Test — See Acid Test. There are also microscopic and other tests. See encyclopedia. Cotton Worsted — All cotton or part cotton worsted-wove cloth. CoTTONADE — Stout cotton cloth in imitation of woolen or worsted trousering. Count — In spinning, the number given to any thread or yarn (except silk) to indicate its relative fineness, based on the number of yards required to weigh CLOTHES one pound. Counting Glass — A magnifying glass with an aperture of defined size, which is a multiple for counting the number of threads to the inch or other unit. Covert — A twill-woven woolen cloth, sometimes with fulled face, sometimes sheared to imitate whipcord ; a short top coat. CowES Coat — See Dinner Jacket. Coxcomb — A pretentious, conceited dandy. Crape — See Crepe. Crape Cloth — A stout worsted fabric with surface in imitation of silk crepe ; most used for dress coats. Crash — A strong, coarse linen cloth. ' Cravat — A necktie or scarf. Cravenette — Cloths treated and finished before weaving by an improved process which renders them rainproof — a secret process owned by the Cravenette Company and B, Priestley & Co. of England and United States. Crepe — A light weight silk, silk-and-wool, or all-wool cloth of slightly irregular weave. Crotch — Juncture of the two halves of a trouser. Crowsfeet — A three-pointed embroidery stitch, sometimes used in finishing pockets. Cummerbund — A broad sash. Cutaway (Frock) — A single-breasted coat DICTIONARY with Prince Albert back, the skirts of which are cut away in front from waist line to bottom of skirts behind. Cutter — In tailoring, a designer of garments. See Designer. D Damier — Large, square checks. Dandy — A beau ; not quite a dude. Deltoid Muscle — The pons asinonim of tailoring. Designer — One who conceives and makes patterns for garments. See Cutter. Diagonal — A worsted cloth with prominent diagonal ridges. Dinner Jacket — An informal dres5 coat without tails, somewhat like a sack, for dinner wear, men's evening parties, but not where ladies are present, as at balls, operas, etc. Also called Cowes Coat and Tuxedo. Doeskin — A compact twilled woolen, soft and pliable. Dog-Rabbiting — See Piecing-out. Double Cloth — Two single cloths woven in one structure. Doublet — A sort of jacket; 15th to 17th century. Drap — French word for cloth ; seldom applied to cotton fabrics. Drap d'Alma — A fine, close, flat-ribbed H twilled fabric of wool, or silk and wool, finished on but one side. Drap d'Ete — A fine, light worsted fabric, woven in longitudinal cords. Draper — A dealer in cloths ; also a clothier, haberdasher or dry goods merchant. Drawers — Undertrousers. Dress — Indicating the manner in which a man disposes himself in his trousers ; as right and left dress. Dress Coat — See Full Dress, Drilling — General term for various twilled cotton stuffs used for lining. Sometimes called "drill." Driving Coat — A coat designed for protection or "style" when driving. A "duster." Duck — A sort of fine, firm canvas. Dude — Indescribable. Duster — A light overcoat of linen, mohair or other thin fabric, once extensively worn when traveling or driving. Dyeing — The art and operation of coloring textile fabrics by immersion in a properly prepared bath ; dyes are chiefly vegetable or aniline. See encyclopedia. E Ell — I % yards. Elvsian — Overcoat cloth something like D ICTIONARY but rougher than Chinchilla, straight hair. Epaulettes — Shoulder-straps. EsTAMENE — Similar to Serge, but having a rough, nappy face resembling cheviot. Etamine — A light woolen cloth similar to Batiste and Nun's Cloth. Eton Jacket — A scant sack coat worn by students at Eton. Evening Dress — See Full Dress. Faille Francaise — A soft, lustrous silk fabric of wider cord than grosgrain, but narrower than ottoman. Farmer Satin — A lining of cotton chain and wool filling, finished with high lustre. Also called Italian cloth. Fast Color — Applied to colors supposed not to fade in washing or through exposure. Fearnought — A heavy filled woolen fabric used for sailors' overcoats and clothing ; sometimes called dreadnought. Fell — To turn in a seam. Felt — A cloth of wool, hair, fur, etc., not woven, but matted together. Filibeg — The Highland kilt. Filling — The woof or weft threads of a woven fabric. Flannel — A soft, light-weight woolen [ '5 ] H fabric of which the yarn is but slightly twisted. Flannelette — A half-cotton or all-cotton flannel-like fabric. Flap — A limber hanging part. Flap Pad — See pad and looney. Flat Bound — Bound with flat braid. Flock — Finely powdered woolen waste used in finishing cheap woolens. Fly — The front opening of a coat or trousers, so made that the buttons do not show through the outer face. Fop — Cross between dandy and dude. French Back — A false back worn to a worsted-face fabric. French Facing — The inside facing of a coat, extending around the armholes. French Seams — First sewed out the wrong way and then turned in the right way Frieze — A thick, shaggy, heavy nap woolen overcoat cloth. Frock Coat — Properly the Prince Albert coat ; also the cutaway. Frog — Ornamental braided loop-and-button. Front Falls — Trousers, not made with a single fly opening, but with a wide front flap, buttoning on both sides. Full Box — Trade term for a very loose effect in overcoats. Full-Dress — Black "claw-hammer" coat, low cut vest and trousers to match. Fulled — Made thicker and more compact by shrinking. [ «6 ] DICTIONARY Fur Beaver — A long-napped cloth imitating fur. G Gigging — Giving a nap to woolen cloths, such as broadcloth, beaver, chinchilla, melton, etc. Golf Coat — A red flannel coat for golf playing, single breasted sack style. Goose — A tailor's iron. Gore — A triangular piece of cloth let into a garment ; a gusset. Great Coat — A heavy overcoat. Grosgrain — A close-woven, finely ribbed or corded silk fabric with but little luster. Guaranteed — See Warranted Clothing. Guernsey — A close-fitting knitted woolen shirt. Gusset — See gore. H Haberdasher — A dealer in men's furnishings. Haircloth — A lining woven of horsehair for weft with cotton or linen warp. Hairline — Very fine lines. Havelock — The light covering, worn by soldiers and tourists in hot countries. H hanging from a cap, behind the neck. Halflined — Term applied to garments only partially lined and partially "skeleton." Hand-padded — Term referring to under- collars, lapels and inside wadding worked by hand instead of by machine. Herringbone — A fishbone woven cloth. HiGH-RisE — Term applied to trousers cut high in the waist. Hip Boots — Boots reaching to the hips. Holland — A fine, stout, plain-woven unbleached linen cloth, used for linings, etc. Homespun — Cloth woven at home on hand-looms, or cloth made in imitation of such cloth. HopsACKiNG — A sort of home-spun "in-and-out" woven fabric. HousE-CoAT — A fancy lounging coat. Hunting Coat — A short red cutaway; English. I Indigo — A deep blue dye obtained from several plants of the genus Indigofera, native of India and Asia and also found in Africa and South America ; known from most remote times. Ingrain — Dyed in the yarn with fast colors. DICTIONARY Inseam — The inner seam of the leg of a pair of trousers ; sometimes also called the "crotch seam" ; the forearm of the sleeve. Interlining — Placed between the outer fabric and lining for purpose of shape, warmth, etc. Inverness — A long, loose overcoat with cape, without sleeves, for full dress wear. Irish Linen — Full bleached, fine, plain woven linen, used for shirts, collars and cuffs ; usually 36 inches wide. Italian Cloth — A wool or wool and cotton lining material, satin finished face. Ivory Nut — The seed of a Venezuela palm ; when dry is very hard and resembles finest natural ivory in color and texture ; made into buttons, etc. J Jacket — A short coat, usually not extending to the knees. , Jean — A twilled undressed cloth with cotton warp and wool filling or sometimes all cotton. Jerkin — A sort of waist-coat. Jersey — Woolen stockinet ; a sort of sweater. Jobber — One who purchases merchandise in large lots and resells in smaller. [ 19 ] H Job Lot — Term applied to odd lots of merchandise set apart for sale at a reduced price. Join-Up — The process of sewing the two halves of the coat or trousers together. Jour — Workshop abbreviation for journeyman ; q. v. Journeyman — A graduate apprentice ; a working tailor. JouRY — A local familiar name applied to fellow jours. Jumper — A workman's loose outerjacket or blouse. K Kaikai — A thin, cheap Japanese silk fabric. Kersey — A heavy, closely woven cloth with a smooth face and glossy finish. Kerseymere — A fine twilled woolen cloth of peculiar texture, one thread of warp and two of weft being always above. Khaki — A light yellow-brown colored cloth used for army service uniforms in hot countries. Kilts — A plaited skirt, like a Highlander's. Knee Breeches — Knickerbockers. Knickerbocker — In weaving an effect produced by rough knotted yarns ; similar to boucle and bourette. Knickerbockers — Knee breeches. DICTIONARY Knock-Kneed — Knees that turn inward and rub against each other in walking. Ladies-Cloth — A fine, wide flannel, slightly napped ; similar to broadcloth. Lap-Board — An oblong board, round at the ends, laid on the lap of the workman, upon which the seams and other parts of the garment are pressed in the process of making. Lap Seams — Seams made by overlapping or laying on, instead of turning in. Lapel — The length of a dress-coat in front, or from the gorge seam in front, down to the waist seam ; the narrow strip — square at the lower end and angular at the upper end — which is sewed to the front of double-breasted coats ; the roll or "lay-over" of the front of a coat. Lapel-Seam — The seam caused by sewing the back edge of the lapel strip to the front edge of the fore part becomes the "lapel-seam." Lasting — A strong, closely woven double twill worsted fabric, mostly used for buttons and shoe tops. Laventine — A thin silk used for sleeve linings. Left-Dress — See Dress. H Leggin — A covering for the leg like a long gaiter. A protector in cold or wet weather or out-door sports. Levantine — A stout twilled silk, each side finished equally but of different colors. Linen — General name for yarn spun and cloth woven from the fiber of flax. Lining — General term for materials used for covering the inner side of a garment or anything. In men's clothing usually silk, Italian cloth, farmer's satin, serge, silesia, brilliantine, etc. Linsey-Woolsey — A stout flannel made with linen warp and wool filling. List — Selvedge. Livery — The dress or uniform of servants. Livery Cloth — See Boxcloth. Logwood — The blue-black dye obtained from the tree of that name. Long Roll — Lapels pressed long and low instead of high. Longs — Trade term for ready-made clothing cut to fit tall, thin men, Looney — An oblong, flattened pad, used in pressing and giving form to the collar, lapels and shoulders of a coat. Lounge Suit — A sack suit. Lounging Robe — A long, loose house gown. Low-Necked — A garment is said to be "low-necked" or "long-necked" when the gorge in front is cut low. Low-Shouldered — The extreme opposite DICTIONARY of "high-shouldered." LusTERiNG — Process for giving to woolen cloth a smooth, glossy surface that will not roughen in wear. LusTRENE — A thin twilled cotton lining material ; finished with high luster in imitation of silk. M Macaroni — Little better than a dude. Mackintosh — A long, loose overcoat of waterproof material ; for wear in stormy weather. Maco — Egyptian cotton. Madder — A vegetable red dye. Manipulated — Term applied to fabrics which in weaving are mixed with some inferior substance, as wool and cotton, silk and cotton, etc. Marseilles — A sort of figured pique. Matelasse — A silk and wool or all-wool brocade, usually employed for waistcoats. Mauve — A reddish purple aniline dye. Melange — A French word signifying mixture. Melton — A stout woolen cloth, fulled, sheared and finished without a nap — like Kersey but without the gloss. Mercerized — A term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is chemically treated and the fabric finished by a [ ^3 H mechanical process, obtaining the appearance and many of the qualities of silk, more or less permanent. Named after Mercer, discoverer of process. Merchant — One who buys and sells commercial commodities. Merchant Tailor — See Tailor. Merino — A thin woolen fabric made of the fine wool of the Merino sheep, generally used for ladies' wear, but also made into vestings and underclothing for men's wear. Merveilleux — A twilled silk, of rather soft texture, used for linings. Mill Ends — Trade term referring to short lengths, seconds, damaged pieces, etc., that accumulate in mills and are usually sold at a nominal price. Milling — The process of fulling or thickening cloth. Misfit — The term is a terror to tailors. Mixture — General term for any melange weave or effect. Mocado — The mock velvet of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries ; not now made. Mode — The prevailing fashion or custom ; a sort of ecru or tan color. Mohair — A light, thin, shiny fabric of enormous durability ; from the wool of the Angora goat, found in Asia. Moire — The watered effect produced upon silk, moreen, etc. [ M ] DICTIONARY Moleskin — A medium heavy twilled cotton cloth, napped inside and printed outside. MoMiE — French for mummy. A cloth of puckered or fluted appearance. MoN key-Jacket — A short jacket cut in the sack form, fitting close to the waist and flaring out at the bottom. , MoNTAGNAC — A heavy napped cloth, a portion of the nap being woolly lobs, the rest straight napped. Mosey — An under-jacket, usually made of baize or flannel, and worn instead of an undershirt, usually under the vest, but over the shirt in cold weather, but in moderate or warm weather as an outside garment, and is also called a "wammus." Moths — Pests that make business for the clothier and tailor, or disaster, according to where they work. MuNGo — See Shoddy. Muslin — A cotton fabric of various classes and names, all as bleached, unbleached, twilled, cambric, book, mull, longcloth, silesia and a number of others ; used extensively in tailoring for linings and interlinings. N Nail — 2% inches. Nankeen — A peculiar fabric of a pale, ^5 ] CLOTHES Where They Fail It is much to know fine clothing from poor, to be a judge of values, to buy with taste. But all this is nothing to knowing how to make quick sales. The best part of this knowledge is the ability to estimate an advertising proposition; some fall short, for instance, of realizing the immense value of the manufacturer's unequivocal warranty; its very broadness may stagger. There was a time when merchants held up their hands in horror at the suggestion of giving money back as a regular rule of business. It is well to remember that the only warranted clothing is Cahn-Wampold. [ ^6 ] DICTIONARY dull orange color, woven out of the fibrous tissue which lies between the epidermis and the sapwood of a tree or shrub which grows in the East Indies and especially in China. The name is derived from the imperial city of Nankin or from the tree or shrub which yields the tissue. An imitation is made out of cotton and colored with aleutta. The genuine nankin is never more than eighteen or twenty inches wide, and is used generally for light summer trousers or for children's clothing. Nap — The woolly surface of a fabric. Nape — The starting point from which the length and the shoulder measures are taken for a coat. A vertebral protuberance located on the back central part of the neck at its junction with the thorax or trunk. Napier Cloth — A once-popular double-face cloth for women's wraps, one side wool, the other of hair. Narrow Cloth — Trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide ; wider cloths called broad. Narrow-Fall — A small flap closing the opening in the front of trousers, with two or three button holes at the top and corresponding buttons sewed on the waist-bands, to which it was buttoned. See Front-Falls. [ ^7 ] H Narrow-Bound — Very narrow binding, distinguished from "medium-bound" or "broad-bound." Natte — French name for basket-weave effects. Neckcloth — Cravat. Necktie — Correctly, a narrow band to be tied in front. Neckwear — General term for all sorts of neck dressings. Needle — They are of various kinds, known among tailors as silk-needles, thread- needles, button-needles, basting-needles, etc., and these again are known as sharps, blunts, betweens, etc. Neglige — Easy and informal dress ; a summer shirt. Newmarket — A long, close-fitting overcoat cut in the style of a frock coat ; a surtout. Noil — Knots and short bits of wool taken from the long staple in combing; waste silk. Norfolk Jacket — A single breasted sack coat having two or three box plaits in back, two in front and a belt of material. Most used for hunting and outdoor sports. Notch-Collar — The distinguishing collar of sack coats. Nun's Cloth — A soft, firm, clinging woolen fabric, light and strong ; entire suit weighs but thirty-two ounces on an average. 28 DICTIONARY O Oil-Boiled — Trade term for colors so treated, to insure permanence. Oiled Silk — The plain silk boiled in oil and dried, becoming translucent and waterproof ; largely used as a perspiration guard. Oilskin — Cotton or linen prepared with oil to make it waterproof ; a "slicker." Old Man's Frock — A one-buton cutaway frock coat, cut rather full in front. Ottoman — A stout, lustrous silk fabric of heavier cord than faille. Ounce — In woolen trade refers to the weight of a yard of cloth. Outing Cloth — A sort of gingham. Outing Suit — A lightweight summer suit, usually of flannel. Outlet — Allowance in seams for increasing size of garments. Overalls — Loose-fitting over-trousers of duck, denim, etc. Overcoat — A coat worn over one's other clothes ; a top coat ; a great coat. Overcoating — Fabrics woven specially for overcoats — i. e., covert, kersey, melton, beaver, frieze, vicuna, whipcord, cheviot, chinchilla, montagnac, Shetland, elysian, thibet, etc. OvERGAiTER — A cloth covcring for the upper part of the foot ; "spats." [ 29 ] H OvERPLAiD — Apparently a larger plaid woven on top of a smaller plaid or stripe design. OvERSACK — An overcoat. OvERSHiRT — An outer or top shirt. Oversleeve — Separate sleeves of almost any material worn by bookkeepers, clerks, etc., to protect shirt or coat sleeves. Oxford Mixture — A black-and-white mixed effect of varying shades of darkness. Pad — A flat, compact cushion or mattress- shaped implement laid upon the lap-board or any other press-board and used in "pressing-off" and giving form and finish to a garment. Its elasticity accommodates it to any inequalities of the garment and therefore the whole surface is reached by the pressure of the iron and made smoother and solider than it could be without its use. See looney. Padding — Felt, cotton or wool used for giving shape to garments. Paddock — A rather long, slightly form- fitting overcoat, somewhat similar to the Newmarket. Pajamas — Loose trousers and blouse of [ 30 ] DICTIONARY thin material, worn for sleeping or lounging. Paletot — A long, loose overcoat. Paneled Back — The inside back of a coat made with broad facings of the goods around seams and edges, and filled in with (panels of) silk or other lining. Pantaloons — Tight-fitting trousers buttoned at the ankles. Panting — Cloth suitable for trousers. Paring-Off — The process of paring-off the surplus cloth along the margin of a garment, when the edges are made raw. Paring-Shears — Shears or scissors made expressly for paring the edges of garments. Paste — Formerly used to stiffen coats, but now entirely obsolete. Patch Pockets — Pockets made wholly on the outside of a garment. Patent Beaver — Similar to Castor Beaver with more of a cloth finish. Pea Jacket — A short coat of thick closely woven cloth, worn in rough weather. Peau de Soie — Heavy, soft finished, plain colored silk, woven in very fine ribs. Peddler — A peripatetic merchant. Pegtop — Trousers cut wide and full around the hips and narrowing sharply down to the ankle. [ 31 ] CLOTHES Pepper-and-Salt — A black-and-white or grayish mixture, effected in weaving. Percaline — A fine light-weight cotton lining material. Perching — Examining and correcting raw woolen cloth for and of knots, burs, holes and other imperfections before filling. Petersham — A heavy woolen, woven or felted kind of cloth for overcoating. It has a rough, knotty surface, and is sometimes called "nigger-head." A very heavy, close-felted kind of this cloth is also called "cordington" ; the finer, softer kinds "chinchilla." Pick — The number of threads within a given space. PiEciNG-OuT — The act of sewing together the pieces, which sometimes occur in the facings of garments, is called "piecing them out." "Dograbbiting." PiGEON-ToED — The toes inclining or pointing inward. Pilot Cloth — A medium heavy, smooth, blue cloth similar to Kersey or Beaver, minus the nap. Pink Coat — English name for red hunting and golf coats. Pin Check — A very fine small check. Pin Rib — A very delicate rib or cord. Piping — A covered cord for trimming, applied along edges and seams. Pique — A heavy cotton fabric having a [ 3^ ] DICTIONARY surface that is corded or having a raised lozenge pattern. Plaid — Colored bars or stripes crossing each other at right angles ; a tartan, a kilt. Plait — A flattened fold or gather. Ply — A fold or thickness. P. M. — Premium money given clerks for disposing of slow-selling goods. Pockets — Things to carry things in. Pongee — A homewoven plain silk. Popinjay — A chattering coxcomb. Pricked Edges — Backstitched by hand so that no seam is apparent. Prince Albert — A double-breasted, frock coat, cut form-fitting. Prunella — Lasting cloth. Puttee — A legging that looks like a surgical bandage. Q Quadrille — Small squares or checks ; shepherd checks. Quilted Lining — A layer of cotton batting faced on one or both sides with silk, satin or other cloth, and sewed together or quilted in fancy patterns. [ 33 I H R Raglan — A loose overcoat, the sleeves of which are continued over the shoulders up to the collar. Named after Lord Raglan, who devised a similar garment for the protection of his soldiers during the Crimean war, the idea being to increase their fighting efficiency by the greater freedom of action afforded by the peculiar shoulder. Rain Coat — A mackintosh or waterproof garment. Raw Edges — Open edges of the goods ; not turned in. Raw Seams — See Raw Edges. Raye — French textile term for pattern of delicate stripes or narrow lines. Redingote — A double breasted outside coat with long plain skirts ; a French corruption of the English riding coat. Reefer — A short round coat or jacket. Regular — Clothing trade term for normal or standard sizes, from which longs, stouts, slims, etc., are variations. Repellent — A sort of waterproof cloth of wool, wool-and-cotton or all cotton. Rever — A turned back lapel or cuff. RiGBY Cloth — A sort of waterproof cloth, chemically treated. Right Dress — See Dress. Roll Collar — A plain collar without [ 34 1 DICTIONARY peak or notch ; a show collar. Roundabout — A short jacket reaching to the waist. Rowing Shirt — A low-necked shirt with very large deep armholes. Rubber Cloth — Usually cotton sheeting or drilling with a coating of rubber on one side ; used for mackintoshes and sometimes for interlining ulsters. Rug — A traveling shawl or blanket. Sabretache — A leather pocket hung from the left side of the sword hilt ; a popinjay ornament. Sack — A business coat with pockets, made single and double breasted ; a loose Chesterfield overcoat. Saddle Seams — Sewn as saddlers sew leather. Salesman — Masculine of saleslady. Sash — A waist-scarf. Sateen — A close twilled cotton fabric, soft and glossy ; used for linings, etc. Satin — A silk fabric having a very high luster on its face. Satin Rhadame — A lustrous silk satin, the face crossed and broken by fine twilled lines, extending diagonally across the web. Satinet — A cheap clothing material 35 H similar to cassimere, made with a cotton warp and a filling of short, inferior or shoddy wool, which is mixed with enough long wool to enable it to be spun and woven in a way to bring the filling to the surface of the cloth ; afterwards fulled, sheared and the pattern printed on the face. Scarf — A cravat. ScHAPPE — Silk fabrics woven of waste and damaged cocoons. Schooner Pants — Spring bottoms, after the sailor style. Scotch Mixtures — Hard to describe ; if you don't know ask a woolen house for samples. ScYE — The arm hole of a garment. Seams — That part of the fabric used in sewing together. Selvedge — The web edge of cloth ; list. Serge — A fine diagonal twilled worsted — both all-worsted and with a worsted warp and "woolen" filling. Serge — A lining of cotton or linen warp and wool or mohair filling, woven three-leaf twill. Shawl — A square cloth wrap. Shawl Collar — A rounding collar without notches ; see roll-collar. Shepherd Check — Tiny checks, usually black and white. Shetlands— Very shaggy overcoating, named from the Shetland pony, the coat [ 36 ] DICTIONARY of which it is supposed to imitate in appearance. Shirtwaist — A test of masculine fortitude during the summer of 1901. Shoddy — Waste thrown off in spinning; shredded rags and bits of cloth to be manipulated into new cloth ; a cheap inferior cloth. Shooting Coat — A sack coat of corduroy, duck, etc., with capacious pockets, used by sportsmen. Shooting Jacket — See shooting coat. Shop — Store. Short Stout — Trade term for garments built for short, stout people. Shrink — To contract or take up all loss of length ; to sponge. Shroud — The last garment we wear. Sicilian — A plain-woven mohair fabric ; see Brilliantine ; Mohair. Silesia — A light close-woven fine-twilled cotton lining fabric. Singe — To remove the warp from textile fabrics by fire or heat. Sizes — Trade term for an assortment or a range of sizes and shapes. Skating Jacket — A short snug-fitting coat. Skeleton — Term applied to a coat made without lining. Skirt — The lower or hanging part of a coat. Slims — Trade term for garments designed for slim people. [ 37 ] CLOTHES Small Falls — See narrow-falls and front tails. Smalls — Close fitting knee breeches. Smoking Jacket — A fancy coat for house (smoking) wear. Sock — Much less euphonious than hose, Soft Roll — Lapel or front of coat made without stiffening and lightly pressed into a long roll. Spatterdash — A sort of overgaiter or legging. Spencer — A very short overcoat not fully covering the undercoat. Spiff — Premium or bonus. Splay-Footed — Toes turning outward. Sponge— To dampen for ironing, pressing or cleaning or preparatory to cutting; to shrink. Stable Suit — A stable uniform. Staple — The fibre of any material, as long or short, staple, wool or cotton. Stays — Corsets. Stock — A twice around the neck dressing. Stockinet — A plain, elastic texture made on a knitting frame. Stocking — Hose. Storm Coat — A rain-proof coat ; mackintosh, ulster. Stouts — Trade term for garments made for stout persons. Strap Seams — Seams with a strip of cloth laid over. Surah Silk — Twilled similar to woolen [ 38 ] D ICTIONARY serge. SuRTOUT — An overcoat cut in the style of a frock coat. Swallowtail — See Full Dress. Swap — Lost customer. Sweater — A tight-fitting, ribbed, knitted jacket or skirt. Swell — A supposedly ultra-fashionable individual. Tailor — One who makes clothes. Tailor-to-the-Trade — A manufacturer who makes clothes on mail orders. Tartan — A Scotch plaid. Tests — Process for determining quality, strength, color, etc. Tete de Negre — "Niggerhead." Thibet — More elastic and softer than Melton, not so nappy as Cheviot, unfinished look. Topcoat — A light overcoat. Tricot — A double-twill cloth, having both a warp and a filling effect. Trousers — Garments for the lower limbs ; widely, but erroneously, known as "pants." Trunk Hose — Knee tights ; swimming breeches. Tuck — A flat fold in a fabric ; your wife will show you the difference between [ 39 ] CLOTHE! a tuck and a plait. Turn-Over — The turned in extremity of trouser legs and sleeves. Turn-Up — The bottom of trousers. Tuxedo — See Dinner Jacket. Tw^EED — An open, soft, flexible twilled cloth, closely spun and finely woven, but slightly fulled. Twilled — Woven in such manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or across the surface of the fabric. u Ulster — A long, loose, heavy overcoat for rough weather wear. Undercoat — The body-coat. Undercollar — The under side of a collar ; usually, but not necessarily, of softer material. Unfinished Worsted — A soft dull finished cloth, slight nap. Uniform — Livery distinguishing the members of some military, naval or civil body, or employes of clubs, corporations, etc. Uniform Cloth — Cloth suitable for uniforms ; usually a stout fulled woolen cloth, similar to Kersey. Union Cassimere — Of a quality with satinet, but with a woven instead of printed pattern. 40 DICTIONARY V Velvet — A closely woven silk material with short thick pile on one side. Velveteen — Cotton velvet. Venetian — A cloth milled and cropped bare in finishing. Vent — An outlet ; q. v. Vest — See waistcoat. Vestment — An ecclesiastical garment. Vicuna — A soft twilled cloth similar to Cheviot, made of the wool of the Andes vicugna. w Wadding — The tailor's expedient for making a lanky customer look well in the eyes of his girl and fellow creatures ; see Padding. Waistcoat — Vulgarly a "vest." Wale — A ridge or streak rising above surface of cloth, running entire length or width. Walking Coat — A compromise between a single breasted sack and a cutaway frock, more nearly resembling the latter, but shorter and with pocket flaps on hips. Wammus — A sort of Cardigan jacket, [ 41 ] H a mosey ; also spelled wamuss. Warp — The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom and crossed by the filling or weft ; sometimes called the chain or end. Warranted Clothing — Only made by Cahn, Wampold & Co. Waterproof — A textile so treated, by rubber or chemicals or otherwise, that it repels instead of absorbing water. See Cravenette. Weft — The woof or filling of a fabric ; the threads that cross the warp from selvage to selvage. Wellingtons — Boots, covering the knee but cut away behind. Welt Seams — See lap seams. WkiPCORD — A worsted cloth having a small prominent twill. WiGAN — A very stiff, open, canvas interlining used for giving shape to garments. Woof — The threads that cross the warp in weaving ; the weft ; filling. Woolens — Name of fabrics of carded wool ; usually soft woven. Worsteds — Name of fabrics of combed wool ; usually hard woven. [ 41 ] DICTIONARY X Y Yacht Cloth — A flannel heavier than ordinary flannel or serge, price dyed. Yarn — Thread for knitting or weaving. Yoke — A band or cross piece to which other parts of garment are attached. Yoke Coat — A coat with a yoke. Zouave Jacket — A short jacket reaching about to the waist, and cutaway in front. t 43 ] This being incomplete the Editor is desirous of hearing from those who know of other definitions overlooked, or of errors in this compilation. Some credit is due to "Cole's Dictionary of Dry Goods," some to "The American Tailor and Cutter," some to Mrs. Alice Morse Earle, et al, but most largely to the people in the store and in the work shop — the people who make and use the lingo. The Editor. 44 THE GIST-OF-THINGS LIBRARY Consists of a series of brief booklets on clothes making, clothes knowledge and clothes selling, of which this is the second issue, the same preceded by /. Warranted Clothing A new edition of a little book of which we have already distributed over 20,000 copies; contains much new matter. And these will be followed by ///. Advertising Phrases By William Henry Baker, manager of our advertising department. Reprinted from Chat^ with various additions^ and properly classified. IF. Sartor Historicus Historical matter from Chat and other publications, illustrated. V. Good Things from Chat A republication of some of the best original and reprint matter that appeared in Chat from November 1900 to October 1901. Other issues will be announced later Price 5 Cents Per Copy except volume i which is sent free One copy of each volume will be sent free of charge to customers, as issued. Others desiring them are requested to send the price. Cahn, Wampold & Co. CHICAGO The only warranted clothing — it's safe. This garment warranted to give satisfactory servi Cahn, Wampold & C< Makers — Chicago This is the label of safety. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS