F 57 .G8 P23 Copy 1 THE LION'S CLAW TRAIL = LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 068 785 6 % THE CAMEL'S HUMP REGION OF THE GREEN MOUNTAINS OF VERMONT Fs7 ■ THE LION'S CLAW TRAIL— A NEW ROUTE SOUTH OF CAMEL'S HUMP Louis J. Paris, M. D. . Chairman State Membership Committee Green Mountain Club (Reprinted from the Burling-ton Free Press, September 1, 1916) Those who have stood on the brink of the great clifC at the top of Camel's Hump must remember the long ridge, crowned by gentle knolls, which stretches south- ward. Along this ridge lies the new route of the Long Trail which is now open for travel. The Long Trial formerly passed through a burnt-over valley on the east far below the crest of this ridge. In a burnt-over region open to the sun every seed dropped sprouts, in fact all of na- ture's forces are striving to cover the scar with new growth. Each season found the trail choked with a rank growth, and the clearing of this trail threatened to be a never-ending task for the Green Mountain club. A lumber job, likely to last for years, was on the line of the Long Trail below the burnt region and its slash had already blocked the trail. These conditions, coupled with the en- tire lack of scenic interest of this part of the trail, made it very clear that further outlay of money had better be made in re-locating the Long Trail. The crest of the ridge was the obvious path, for it can be taken as an axiom for trail build- ers that the higher a trail runs the more permanent it becomes as undergrowth disappears on the higher levels. The scenic gain is too obvious to need men- tion. THE BUILDING OF THE TRAIL. Plans were made to clear the Long Trail as far south as Lincoln mountain in 1916, in fact, a small sum had already been given for that purpose. The unexpected then happened, for a Green Mountain club member. Prof. W. S. Monroe, of Montclair, N. J., offered to finance a trail cutting expedition to last several weeks, and to do the work wherever the Green Mountain club thought that the Long Trail would be most benefited . The re-location of the Long Trail south of Camel's Hump was suggested, and at once appealed to Professor Monroe as an opportunity for a choice bit of scenic trail which would make a highly impressive approach to the Lion from the south. His plan was to bring up camp equipment, food and tents for the accommodation of six. Two friends were to accompany him from New York, and relays of Green Mountain club members were to be his guests while working on the trail. The building of the trail being assured, the next in order was to prospect and blaze a trail route to save time for the builders. Two Green Mountain club members, Clarence P. Cowles and J. E. Woodruff, went from Burlington June 9, where they were joined by Forester Chamberlain and spent two days pros- pecting. The chosen route south of the big cliff proved impossible; the ground is covered with boulders of all shapes and sizes separated by wide and deep crevices, all mixed in with a dense growth of scrub spruce, or, where the mountain has been burnt over, a jungle of slash. Those knolls, so gentle when seen from aloft, on approach turned into steep hills, three or four hundred feet high, bristling with slash. It was a question of spending days to a mile of trail or going around, so the line of least resistance was followed. The scouts on the second day lined out the trail to a point five and one-half miles south of the Lion, when dense fog with heavy rain ended the trip. The begin- ning of the Lion's Claw Trail, however, was made. Professor Monroe and J. Ashton Allis of Montclair, N. J., with Kerson Nurrian of New York arrived in Burlington June 20, where they were joined by Olden Paris, proceeding to North Duxbury by the early train. The heavy camp outfit was carried by automobile to the Calla- han farm and there transferred to an ox team. The New Trail was followed up the mountain one and one-half miles to a road built by the forestry service last spring. The road passes a camp site where huge crates give the impression that a basket picnic on a giant scale had happened. These contained a large plant- ing of spruce trees, the reason for the road. The actual trail begins where this road ends, and the heavy outfit was packed in half a mile to a previously lo- cated camp site where an unfailing brook comes down from Baker's Notch. Before night the ground was cleared of brush, four tents pitched, a roofed dining table and fireplace built. From Camp Montclair some very strenuous work was carried on in the next three weeks in spite of wet weather, intense heat, and black flies. Mr. Nurrian stayed a week, Professor Monroe, Mr. Allis and Olden Paris stayed through. Mr. Woodruff and T. S. Dean of Burlington spent several days. Mr. Dean repeating the visit. Dr. Paris spent a week. Forester Chamber- lain lent valuable aid in two long scout- ing trips. THE LION'S CLAW TRAIL. Beginning back at the New Trail the Forestry road strikes off south at the point under the cliffs where the stiff climbing up the peak begins. The Fores- try road leads up the ridge to a notch in the crest, and from this notch the trail leads southwest to Camp Montclair, crossing the ridge. The first knob south of the Lion lies just north of the camp, a grim, fire-swept hill. On the west side the fire stopped abruptly and the stand- ing forest presents a border w^ich might have been drawn by a ruler. Above the camp, which is at an elevation of 2,700 feet, the ridge towers to the east, and the brook which tumbles down the mountain side rises in Baker's Notch, a cleft in its crest. To the south the densely forested mountain sides stretch, but to the west unfolds a wonderful picture. Hills, fertile valleys, a pond peeping out from among the ridges then Lake Champlain with its landlocked bays, long points and islands. Back of all rise the toothed ranges of the Adirondack mountains one above an- other. Framed by the trees stands Whiteface showing not alone its familiar cone, but the great ridge of the mountain, revealed to its very base. Three miles down the mountain lies Forest City, a little settlement, whose sawmill whistle marks time at the camp. The brook is undoubtedly never failing, but canteens should be filled as there are eight miles of dry trail to the south. Crossing the brook, the trail skirts along the side of the south knoll, and soon crosses a logging road which leads down to Forest City. From here opens up the first view of the Lion, but the great cliff is lost from this viewpoint, the peak showing as a great rounded cone. A brook is crossed, and another logging road leading down the mountain, with an even finer view of the Lion. The trail shows evidence of hard work with a cross-cut saw, as many big logs have been sawed and rolled clear. There is a fine forest along the trail, open enough to give delightful western vistas. It is surprising that the trail should have so soon become a hard, well-beaten path. The trail climbs to a higher level, but continues to skirt the mountain until one and one-half miles out where it starts up the slope in earnest arriving in a notch, then turning south along the crest. Three knolls are crossed, the middle proving to be the high point touched by the trail with an elevation of 3,350 feet, the other knolls showing 3,300 feet. From this ridge opens the view into the deep and narrow valley above North Fayston. The trail drops down, and at the base of another hill a little pond was found in June. It is five and one-half miles from Callahan's to this pond or two and one-half miles from Camp Montclair. The blazed line of the scouts ended here, and to keep the trail on the ridge, the hill beyond was prospected for a route but was covered with such a tangle of slash that again the way around was sought. An old skidway straight down the mountain side led to a practicable route. This leads along the mountain side under cliffs into a ravine which slants gently downward. It arrives at a double blazed birch by a brook, probably dry in August, still at an elevation of 2,800 feet, which is the low point touched by the trail. Crossing the brook, the trail skirts along a steep hillside through most at- tractive forest, dropping at length into an old logging road which rambles through a lumbered region where many large birches still stand. The road slants down and finally arrives at a broken down log bridge. The road now rises through the scar of a lumber job out on the bare mountain side. From here one sees the mill and settlement at North Fayston. This barren is soon crossed, and the trail enters a forest where the ground is covered inches deep with moss. From here on are found a series of ravines, nine in number. The first is a crevice a yard wide and 20 feet deep ex- tending across the ridge. A treacherous jump on moss covered rock but now safe- ly bridgea. In the second ravine a smooth wall of rock was found \vith no way around. A bit of woodcraft pro« vided a way up as a spruce was felled to lock behind a tree on the brink and lie along the face of rock at an easy angle. Steps were notched in the trunk, and an- other tree placed as a handrail maKes a safe and easy ladder. Two more ravines are crossed and the trail climbs a rocky knob on the crest of the ridge which shows an elevation of 3,000 feet. To the south rise higher rock peaks, part of the same mountain. THE LION'S CLAWS. Four ravines are crossed on the way to the first peak. Stunted spruce and balsam partly cover the lower level, growing from a scanty film of earth in crevices and hollows. The trail twists from ledge to ledge until the bare rock crest is gained. On each side of the ridge there is a sheer drop down a cliff of un- broken granitic rock. Fine views open to the east and west, while directly south across a saddle rises a higher rock mass. The barometer gives an elevation of 3,100 feet. The trail threads its way through the scrub growth to a wall of rock. Climb- ing by ledges to a point where the mass of rock can be seen, it shows convex from north to south, dropping abruptly at the sides. From its bare summit the view is superb; the Mad River valley stretches along the eastern base of the mountains as far as the eye can see. North Fayston nestles under the mountain with Waits- field only two miles south but hidden be- hind a ridge. On one rare day the trail- makers saw the Presidential range on the eastern horizon. The massive head of the Lion blocks the view to the north. Mt. Hunger and the Worcester range to the northeast show with added height. To the west unfolds the always wonder- ful panorama of Lake Champlain with its Adirondack background. The last claw rises to the south and beyond stretches a ridge ending in a small peak. Just over this peak lies Huntington Notch, through which Waits- field and its neighboring towns once found their outlet to Burlington over a county road. The coming of the railroad ended the necessity for this road and it has faded out of existence. It now can barely be traced, but serves as an ap- proach to the Long Trail. Some miles south of the Notch rises the great triple peaked mass of Lincoln mountain. From this view point a debated question is settled as to whether the ridge of Lincoln mountain reached the Notch. It does not, for north of Ellen peak a deep notch in the ridge ends Lincoln mountain. The mountain north is a hig peak with base line of not less than 10 miles with a height, which from comparison with the Lion's Claws and Mt. Abraham, known elevation, can hardly be less than 3,800 feet high. Its crest bears three knobs. As is too frequently the case the moun- tain is unnamed, and for identification and general interest every peak is rela- tion to the Long Trail should bear a name. Stark Peak is offered as a good strong name, woven into the history of Ver- mont, and with a geographical signific- ance as Starksboro lies to the west. But in this year "Place aux Dames!" and Molly's mountain might commemorate the gentle Molly, who, with entire unex- pectedness to herself, became an histori- cal personage by not becoming a widow at the Battle of Bennington. Fair Ellen has gone too long unchaperoned anyway. While on the subject of names, a strong plea is urged for the "Couching Lion" or simply "The Lion" instead of Camel's Hump. The farmer who saw his first camel at a circus viewed its angularities and general impossibility from all sides, then gasped: "Gosh! there ain't no sich animal!" So it is with this mountain; there is only the name, the animal never can be there. When in the outline of this mountain one sees a majectic head reared in outlook southward, with a great back and flanks sloping to the north, no mat- ter by what name it is called, the peak 10 will always be "The Couching Lion." For their identification, and to aid in fix- ing the better name, it is further sug- gested that the first knob below the big cliff be called Little Cub, then on each side of Baker's Notch, the North and South Cubs. High Point comes next, then Big Cub, the first knob of the claws, the Dew Claw, then the Upper Claw, Big Claw, and Lower Claw. Picking up the trail, the next saddle is crossed, and the Lower Claw is found to be the same kind of a rocky climb. The trail weaves to its crest over ledges, through and around the scrub growth. A crown of bare rock on a peak of the Green mountains is seen more frequently at an elevation over rather than under 4,000 feet. Why this huge mass of rock should be bare at the 3,100-foot level is a question for a geologist to answer. Local- ly the peak is called Burnt Rock from its having been swept by a forest fire. The sides are so steep, however, that it ap- pears doubtful whether the mass was ever covered by a continuous layer of earth. Whatever was burnt on the summit of the ridge must have grown from crevices and hollows as the present scrub spruce grows, and charred fragments remain to show that it was a larger, hence longer growth. Getting down the south slope of the Lower Claw was easy, sliding was the only way, but getting up again presented difficulties. A lucky find was made when a big fissure at the top was followed; this led out to a sheer drop down the east cliff, but a smaller fissure leading out of the larger was explored. This led to a ledge running south along the face of the cliff which, turning a corner, contin- ued to the base of the cli'ff. The ledge is six feet or more wide, and was cov- 11 ered with scrub spruce. These have been trimmed out, but plenty were left for handholds which will be comforting to many. Altogether this trail across the Claws is a most unique bit of rock trail. The trail now travels south on a broad bench along the mountain side, cliff above, a sheer drop of a hundred feet or more on the outside. Dense foliage casts a twilight gloom even on a bright day, while all around the ground is littered with the windfalls of untold years. Half a mile of this trail brings one to the Skidmore, a drop in the trail so much steeper than the Skidway, that the com- parative degree is deserved. After drop- ping down a hundred yards, the trail follows a wide fissure east, at one point passing between walls of rock 30 feet high. Breaking out of this crevice just before it arrives at a precipice, the trail crosses the edge of a lumbered clearing, littered with slash, and enters an open hardwood growth. Here the trail leads down a gentle slope, and in a short dis- tance strikes the few remaining "blazes" which mark the old route of the Long Trail. Here ends the Lion's Claw Trail, one of the most varied and picturesque trails in the Green mountains, for which generations of mountain lovers will thank the generous enthusiasm of Professor Monroe. HUNTINGTON NOTCH AND BIRCH LODGE. The first expedition ended July 8, but with the intention on Professor Monroe's part of improving the trail to the south by week-end trips during the session of the summer school at the University of Vermont. During the later stages of building trail, 12 miles a day was walked to and from work which wasted too much 12 time, so a camp near the south end of the trail was imperative. Valuable in- formation came at this juncture from John T. Orvis of Bristol, who had just joined the Green Mountain club. He had surveyed in the Lincoln mountain region, and was able to tell that accommodation was to be found at the farm of Frank Bean, near the west end of Huntington Notch, and to be reached by automobile. Meals were to be found at North Fayston sawmill at the east end of the Notch. Two miles south lies Waitsfleld with its hotel and stage line to Middlesex. Three miles east of Waitsfleld is the Pulp com- pany's mill, in the jaws of the Notch, which separates Stark peak and Lincoln mountain, where meals, lodging and an automobile are found. A logging road over the Notch crosses the Long Trail on the west side, and, followed out half a mile, leads to that happy combination of meals, lodging, and automobile at the "Wright farm. Again, where the Long Trail drops down the north slope of Ellen mountain a logging road leads out half a mile to Jerusalem, a little sawmill set- tlement, where meals and lodgings are to be found at Follansbee's. An automo- bile will befound at North Fayston. All of these places of accommodation are near the Long Trail and will prove of great convenience to hikers. To return to the story of the trail, on Friday, July 15, Professor Monroe, T. S. Dean and J. E. Woodruff took the auto- mobile stage at Richmond and were car- ried direct to the Bean farm. Here it was learned that the Green Mountain club's shelter camp south of Huntington Notch, which they proposed using as a camp, was only a mile by logging road from the farm. The open front log camp was found habitable, near a fine brook, and 18 with plenty of dry firewood at hand. As its logs were birch, Birch Lodge was in- evitable. The camp is directly on the Long Trail two miles south of Hunting- ton Notch. This was purely a scouting trip, the question at issue was whether it was best to continue the Lion's Claw trail over the old Long Trail or keep it up on the ridge. The ridge was scouted, and found to be rough ground, with a large lum- bered stretch full of slash to cross, with no scenic reward, so this route was dis- missed. On July 22, Professor Monroe took back another party, Messrs. Ames, Whittier, Dean and Olden Paris. A new roof was put on Birch Lodge, the two miles of trail to the Notch improved, and half a mile of trail to the north rebuilt. Again on July 29, Professor Monroe went in with Messrs. Dean, Berry, Cowles and Saunders, who completed the Long Trail to its junction with the Claw trail, five miles. On August 4 a trip was made to Camp Montclair by Professor Monroe, T. S. Dean and E. J, Berry. The Rock trail over the Claws was marked and the trail generally manicured. Nothing more was done until the close of the summer school, when on August 22 another expedition went to Burnt Lodge, Professor Monroe, Frederick Brown of Verona, N. J., and Olden Paris. On August 25, R. S. Wyn- koop of New York and T. S. Dean joined the party for the week-end. A revised table of distances has also come to hand, Callahan's to Camp Montclair, 3 1-2 miles Camp Montclair to Skidway, 2 1-2 miles, Skidway to the Lion's Claws, 4 1-2 miles. The Lion's Claws to Huntington Notch, 5 miles, and the Notch to Birch Lodge, 2 miles, 17 1-2 miles in all. Birch Lodge is at an elevation of 2,100 feet. 14 An Appalachian club practice with "blazes" has been followed. Each blaze is cut into the body wood of a tree and has been given two coats of white paint, making a line of blazes, which cannot be lost or mistaken for other blazed lines. They are good for 10 years to come, and loom up in the dark like tombstones in a cemetery. The use of this trail need not be limited to through travelers on the Long Trail. A trip out to the Lion's Claws will fit very well into a two days' trip to the Lion. It is 10 1-2 miles to the Lion's Claws from Callahan's, or the summit, but the trip had better start from the top to save the stiff climb at the end of a long tramp which would be found in returning to the Lion. Green Mountain club arrows with directions mark the trail. No water can be depend- ed on south of Camp Montclair, Though this is the first announcement a number have already traveled this trail, having learned of it in other ways, and there is no doubt that it will become one of the favorite day's marches on the Long Trail when once discovered. Professor Monroe's gift of this valuable addition to the Long Trail had a purpose beyond providing an interesting bit of trail. As he, himself, has said, the Green Mountain club probably might have been able to have built more trail had he given the club the actual money expend- ed, but this trail which has been built by the volunteer work of 14 members of the club will always mean more to the Green Mountain club than if built by hired la- bor. Then, too, remains the inspirational value ot this work, with the strong pos- sibility that each season will see some similar bit of trail perfected by the per- sonal work of members of the club. 15 FOR GREEN MOUNTAIN CLUB BOOKLETS The Long Trail, CameFs Hump Region This reprint is published by the Mem- bership Committee of the Green Moun- tain Club for the information and guid- ance of those who like to climb the mountains and "hit the trail." Should it awaken interest in the Green Mountains the officials of the Green Mountain Club will cheerfully furnish additional infor- mation. The Green Mountain Club The Green Mountain Club was organ- ized in 1 9 1 to make the Green Moun- tains accessible by opening up their peaks and interesting features, by a sys- tem of trails, and also to make the natural beauty and usefulness of these mountains and their forests better known by literature, maps, etc. Membership in the Green Mountain Club Persons over 1 8 years of age who are interested in the work and projects of the Club may become members on ap- plication to the Chairman of the Mem- bership Committee, and the payment of the yearly dues of one dollar. LOUIS J. PARIS, M. D. Chairman Membership Committee Burlington, Vermont LIBRARY OF CONGRESS m 014 068 785 6 O