Pllilli LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ®jprp* ©opgrfajjjft $0—- 'I— . Shelf. 13. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER / YSAGUIRRE AND LA MARCA I M AY IV- 1896 mz£ %J^\M ' h NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS 1896 4* ^ Copyright, 1896, by Harper & Brothers. All rights reserved. PKEFACE When the hot midsummer months come, who is it that does not feel a repugnance for hot food, and whose palate does not demand something delicate yet cold ? For them, and for the housekeeper who is so unfortunate as to have to attend to the culinary department of her establishment, is this book intended. All the receipts given are for dishes to be eaten cold ; many of them require no cook- ing, as canned and preserved goods may be used in their preparation, although fresh meats and vegetables are always preferable ; and all can be prepared in the cool morning hours, before the sun's rays make life hardly bearable. iv PREFACE The authors hope that this collection of receipts will be welcome, taking, as it does, the one unfilled place in the long list of culinary works. The Authors. April, 1896. CONTENTS PAGE Consomme 1 Fish 5 Meats 16 Poultry 26 Game 31 Vegetables 35 Bouciiees 37 Pies and Patties 42 Fisn Patties 49 Cold Sauces and Dressings 51 Salads 58 Creams 75 Charlottes 79 Jellies 84 Ice-Creams and Water-Ices 88 Cakes and Biscuits 101 Tarts and Pies 110 Puddings 113 Jams and Jellies 118 Sandwiches and Savory Morsels 120 INTRODUCTION We read in physiology that " many aro- matic substances" and "various kinds of flesh when well cooked, especially when highly 7 - spiced or flavored with sauce, un- doubtedly excite the stomach, and stimu- late the appetite by their odor, and it is this that makes the artifices of cookery so valuable when the appetite is not naturally strong " ; so that by going into the higher sciences — for cookery is a science in itself — we find the methods which should be fol- lowed by all cooks, and which the French long ago discovered and put to practical use, by which means a dish is made appetizing by giving it a flavor that shall not alone tickle our nostrils, but also excite our appe- tite by its fragrance. viii INTRODUCTION As the appetite is excited by the sense of smell, so is it also by that of sight. A dish may be very fragrant, and also agreeable to the palate, but if the general appearance is not such as to please the organs of sight it will so counterbalance the sense of smell that, if the appetite of the person be not highly developed, the dish will be repug- nant, and the diner unable to bring himself to eat it. It naturally follows that the cook must be also an artist, both as to the aroma of his or her preparations and as to the artistic arrangement of the different dishes with which he or she would please the palate of the gourmet. The authors believe that the receipts given will be — for their fragrance and taste — wel- come, but they leave to the artistic ability of the cook to so garnish the different dishes as to make them pleasing to the sight. All greens, such as cresses, parsley, lettuce, etc., and vegetables, such as beets, carrots, INTRODUCTION ix radishes, also eggs, and, in fact, one thousand and one things, will suggest themselves to the cook of artistic taste, which can be used to garnish the dishes with. For desserts, fancily cut colored papers, Chinese paper napkins, narrow ribbons of bright colors, mottoes, etc., can be used to give an attractive appearance to the differ- ent dishes. Consomme Consomme should be strained very clear, and so served, or colored with a little burnt sugar or a piece of bread toasted. It may be taken as a liquid, or, as some people pre- fer, a jelly. Yery good soups and consomme may be bought in tins and jars at any of the princi- pal grocers', but these, like all canned or pre- served goods, lack that delicate flavor which can only be obtained from fresh goods. calf's-foot consomme Boil 2 calf's feet, 2 ounces veal, a little nut- meg, a few blades of mace, and salt to taste, in 3 quarts of water, till it is reduced to 3 pints ; strain, take off the fat, and place on the ice to cool. i 2 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER » CHICKEN CONSOMME Boil a fowl, including the head and feet, nicely scalded and cleaned ; add to the liquor a blade of mace and an onion ; boil brisk- ly till the meat separates from the bones ; strain off and place on the ice to cool. CONSOMME OF MUTTON Place 12 mutton shanks, 1 pound of lean beef, and an onion, with 4 quarts of water, in a saucepan, and allow to simmer for four hours. Strain off. When cold, place on the ice to harden, or it may be taken liquid. CONSOMME ROYAL Boil briskly for an hour the head and feet of four fowls, 1 pound of lean beef cut into small pieces, in 2 quarts of water, and add an onion, turnip, and salt to taste. Re- move the scum. Strain off and place on the ice to cool. CONSOMME OF VEAL Take a knuckle of veal, a fowl, 4 shank bones, 3 blades of mace, a few pepper-corns, an onion, and boil in 3 quarts of water. CONSOMME 3 When it boils skim it till the scum ceases to rise, cover the vessel, and allow to simmer for four hours. Place on the ice to cool. IMPERIAL CONSOMME Cut 2 pounds of lean veal into small pieces, adding half a pound of lean ham and a small chicken. Place in a stew pan with 1 ounce of butter, 3 onions, 2 carrots, 8 mushrooms, 1 celery stalk, 1 parsnip, a blade of mace, and a quarter of a pint of water ; let it stew in the pan till it catches at the bottom and is quite brown, but not burnt, then add 4 quarts of water ; let it boil gently for three hours, then strain off and place on the ice to cool. WINDSOR CONSOMME Cut 4 pounds of beef into small slices ; place a slice of lean undressed bacon on the bottom of the stewpan ; lay the meat over it, with a few bits of butter or a cupful of fresh gravy. Slice over this a carrot, 2 onions, a little shallot, a stalk of celery, 2 bay-leaves, and some sweet herbs. Use a deep pot. 4 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER Place over the fire, and shake occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking. When the meat is browned on both sides, and the juice partly drawn, add the necessary amount of water, allowing for waste. Skim well, check the boil with cold water, and skim it again and again. Let it simmer for three hours ; strain and place in a cool, dry place. ffxsb BAKED HERKINGS Scale, wash, and dry the herrings ; mix some pepper, a few cloves, and salt ; rub over the fish. Lay the herrings in a pot ; cover them with vinegar ; add a few bay-leaves ; cover tightly. Bake in a moderate oven. Serve cold. BAKED SALMON (1.) Place the fish in a deep pan ; put bits of butter over it. Season with allspice, mace, salt, and paprika ; rub a little of the season- ing on the inside. Baste occasionally with the gravy that collects in the baking-pan. Serve cold ; garnish with parsley. (2.) Scale and dry a fresh salmon; take out the bone by splitting down the back ; salt 6 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER it well, and allow to stand till the brine is drained off ; then season with mace, cloves, and a little red pepper, pounded fine ; place the salmon in a covered pan, with bay -leaves, and cover it with butter ; place in the oven, and when done drain it from the gravy. Al- low to cool, and pour over clarified butter. CAVEACH MACKEREL Clean and divide 6 mackerel ; cut each half into 3 pieces. Powder and mix 1 ounce of pepper, 2 nutmegs, a little mace, 4 cloves, and salt ; make a hole in each piece of fish, into w T hich force the seasoning. Fry in oil, allow to become perfectly cold, put in a stone jar, and cover with vinegar. COLD CRABS (1.) Pick the meat out from the shells and claws of boiled crabs ; add some bread crumbs, paprika, essence of anchovy, 2 spoonfuls of vinegar, some clarified butter, and a spoon- ful of cider vinegar ; mix thoroughly. Clean the shells and fill them with the mixture. Pound the spawn in a mortar, pass it through FISH 7 a sieve, and lay it over the crabs in fancy shapes. Garnish with parsley and the claws. The meat of two crabs will fill but" one shell. (2.) Pick out the meat ; mix it well with a teaspoonf ul of salad-oil, red pepper, and salt. Serve in the shells. COLLARED EEL Bone a large eel, whole ; lay it out flat, and season with pepper and salt, a table- spoonful of pounded mace, allspice, a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, a small onion chopped fine, thyme, and marjoram. Roll up the eel, beginning at the tail; tie in a cloth, and place in a stewpan, together with a gill of vinegar, a pint of water, an onion, and 2 bay -leaves; boil for an hour. When cold take off the cloth and keep it in the liquor in which it was boiled, adding to it a little salt. COLLARED EELS Mix together parsley, shallot, thyme, mar- joram, pepper, mace, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, powdered mushrooms, lemon-peel, and salt. 8 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER Clean and bone the eels ; lay them flat, with the inside upward ; rub the above mixture well into them. Koll them up and tie in a cloth ; boil in salt and water, with lemon-peel, a few bay- leaves, and pepper; add some vinegar. When clone take the collars out, skim off the fat, and boil down to a jelly, which is to be poured over the eels when cold. COLLARED MACKEREL Bone the mackerel, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of allspice, chopped onion, and parsley ; roll them up and place in a pan ; pour over them enough water and vinegar, mixed, to cover them ; let them boil gently for an hour ; keep them in the pickle, and serve cold. They may be baked instead of boiled. COLLARED SALMON Split, scale, and bone the salmon ; season with mace, cloves, pepper, and salt ; roll up in a cloth ; bake it with butter and vinegar. Serve cold. FISH 9 GENEVA SALMON Tie up a piece of salmon, and place in a kettle with sliced onions, carrots, salt, spices, and a pint of claret or port ; when done take from the liquor and serve cold with tartar sauce. MOCK CAVIAEE Bone and pound some anchovies together with a little dried parsley, a clove of garlic, a little red pepper, salt, lemon-juice, and a little oil. Serve on toasted bread. PICKLED OYSTERS (1.) Wash the oysters ; strain the liquor, and add to every pint a glass of white wine, mace, nutmeg, white pepper-corns, and salt ; simmer the oysters for five minutes, but do not allow to boil, as they will become hard. Place them in glass jars. Add to the liquor a glass of vinegar, and boil ; skim the pickle, and pour over the oysters. When cold cover very tightly. (2.) Place the oysters in a stewpan ; sprin- kle with fine Lisbon sugar ; add their liquor, 10 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER well strained, and set on the fire for five minutes, but do not allow to boil. Draw off the liquor, and add to it double the amount of vinegar, together with some catsup, pa- prika, lemon-peel, and salt ; boil a quarter of an hour. Sprinkle the oysters with sugar and salt, and place them in a stone jar. When cold strain the pickle over them and cover very tightly. (3.) Put the oysters in a saucepan with their own liquor, and allow to simmer gently for ten minutes ; then lay in a jar. When cold pour over them the following pickle : boil the liquor of the oysters with a bit of mace, lemon-peel, black pepper, and vinegar. Keep in small jar well covered. PICKLED SMELTS Wash and clean the smelts. Pound to- gether half an ounce of pepper, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of saltpetre, and the same quantity of nutmeg ; lay the smelts in layers, placing the seasoning between each layer ; add a few bay-leaves ; boil some red FISH 1 1 wine, and pour over the fish enough to cover it. When cold cover well. PICKLED STUEGEON Cut the sturgeon into small pieces ; wash it well, and tie in a cloth. To 3 quarts of water add 1 quart of strong beer, salt, 1 ounce of ginger, 2 ounces of pepper, 1 ounce of cloves, and 1 ounce of Jamaica pepper ; when the liquor boils put in the sturgeon ; when clone take it from the fire and allow to stand overnight ; add a quart of strong vine- gar and salt. Cover closely. POTTED EEL Skin and clean a large eel ; dry and cut into small pieces about four inches in length ; season with mace, pepper, and salt ; lay in a pan and cover with melted butter ; bake for half an hour in a quick oven. When done take it out and place on a cloth to drain. Pack closely in a pot ; melt the butter it was baked in, and pour it over the eel. POTTED HERRINGS Cut the heads off the herrings and lay in 12 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER an earthen pot ; sprinkle a little salt between each layer; acid cloves, mace, pepper, and sliced nutmeg ; fill up the vessel with vine- gar, water, and white wine ; cover it and place in the oven. When cold take out the herrings and put into well-covered vessels. POTTED LOBSTER (1.) Parboil the lobster ; cut it into small pieces, and season with mace, white pepper, nutmeg, and salt ; press into a pot and cover it with butter ; bake for half an hour ; put in the spawn. When cold take out the lob- ster and put it into covered vessels with a little of the butter ; beat the rest of the but- ter with some of the spawn, and cover the lobster with it. (2.) Take out the meat from the lobster without breaking; season with mace, nut- meg, white pepper, salt, and cloves. Put a little butter at the bottom of a pan, and lay the lobster over it, placing between the layers a few bay -leaves ; cover with butter, and bake in a slow oven ; when done strain, FISH 13 lay in potting-pans, and add the seasoning. When cold pour clarified butter over it. POTTED MACKEKEL Clean, season, and bake the mackerel in a pan, with plenty of spices, bay-leaves, salt, and butter. When cold put them into a pot and cover with butter. POTTED SALMON Split, scale, and clean the salmon, but do not wash ; rub with salt, and drain off the moisture ; season with pounded mace, cloves, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. Cut the salmon into small pieces, lay them in a pan, and cover with melted butter. Bake, drain from the fat, put the pieces into pots and cover with clarified butter. SALMAGUNDI Wash and open 2 pickled herrings; re- move the meat from the bones, being care- ful not to break the skin, and keeping the head, tail, and fins on it ; mince the fish with the breast of a chicken, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, an onion, a boned an- 14 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER chovy, a little grated ham or tongue; sea- son with oil, vinegar, red pepper, and salt ; fill up the herring-skins so that they may look plump, and shape carefully. Garnish with parsley, and serve with mustard. SALMON JELLY Break the salmon into flakes ; season with allspice, nutmeg, salt, and pepper; fill a mould with alternate layers of the salmon and aspic jelly. Turn out on a flat dish, and garnish with lettuce - leaves and hard-boiled eggs. CEBICHE DE CAMAEONES (CEAWFISH) Boil the crawfish and remove the shells. Cut 3 onions into rounds; pour boiling water over them, let stand for five minutes, and repeat two or three times. Strain the juice of bitter oranges or lemons; mix in salt and paprika; put the fish into a deep dish together with the onions, and pour over them enough of the lemon -juice to com- pletely cover them. FISH 15 CEBICHE DE PESCADO (FISH) Cut the fish into half -inch cubes. Pre- pare the onions as in the preceding receipt ; also the lemon -juice, with the paprika and salt. Put the fish into a deep dish, with lemon- juice sufficient to cover it; allow to stand for three or four hours ; stir well every ten minutes until the fish looks white and cooked. Bear in mind that the fish does not go near the fire. The best fish to use is halibut. /n>eats BEEF A LA MODE (1.) Take 4 pounds of bottom round, and rub well with powdered spices and salt. Lay skewers on the bottom of the stewpan, and spread over them thin slices of bacon ; place the beef on the bacon, and lay over it a few more slices ; add a little vinegar ; cover close- ly and stew for two hours. Add to the gravy a seasoning of cloves, pepper, bay- leaves, mushrooms, a little catsup, and a few button onions ; simmer till the meat is quite tender ; serve the meat dry ; strain the gravy and boil it slowly for an hour, when it will jelly ; glaze the meat with the jelly. (2.) Slice and fry to a nice brown 2 onions ; cut a quarter of a pound of bacon into small MEATS 17 pieces; dip them into 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; make deep holes in a nice piece of beef weighing about 4 pounds, into which put the bacon ; rub the beef well with all- spice, cloves, 2 blades of mace, salt, pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, all finely minced ; place the beef in a saucepan ; pour over it the vinegar, a small glass of currant jelly, the juice of a lemon ; add a carrot, turnip, a head of celery, and the spices ; allow to sim- mer gently for four or five hours. Take up and set on a dish to cool. BEEF BOUILLI Cut cold beef into slices about half an inch thick and about two inches wide ; make a dressing of finely chopped shallots, parsley, pepper, salt, mustard, egg, oil, and vinegar ; pour the mixture over the beef ; serve gar- nished with water-cress. COLLARED BEEF Lard a piece of corned beef ; make holes in it, and fill with a dressing of bread crumbs, suet, parsley, grated lemon -peel, 18 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER sweet herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg mixed well together; bake with a little water, whole peppers, and an onion. Serve cold. DAUBE GLACE Take a piece of lean beef ; make holes in it, and fill them with strips of fat which have previously been rolled in powdered sage, pepper, allspice, salt, and a little minced shallot. Boil 2 calf's feet to a jelly; strain and set aside to cool. Place the meat in a pan with the jelly ; add to it some cloves ; cover very tightly and cook for four hours. Place in a deep dish ; pour the jelly over it ; cool and put on the ice. FORCED BEEF Lard a piece of fresh corned beef ; make holes in it, and fill them with bread crumbs, suet, parsley, grated lemon-peel, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, mixed so as to make a stuffing ; bake in a pan with a little water and wine, whole pep- per, 2 bay-leaves, and an onion. When done MEATS 19 skim off the fat ; put the meat in a dish and pour the liquor over it ; set aside to cool. GALANTINE OF BEEF Mix together half a pound of bread crumbs, 1 pound of sausage meat, some chopped parsley, thyme, marjoram, season- ing, 6 eggs, and spice. Cut a piece of corned beef, weighing about 5 or 6 pounds, into a large thin sheet; season with pepper and salt ; spread the force-meat over it ; sprinkle some mushrooms over the meat, and roll it up very tightly ; tie in a cloth, and boil on a slow fire for five hours ; when done take it up and place between two dishes with a weight on top ; when cold trim the ends and glaze. JELLIED MEAT Soak and clean 4 calf's feet ; boil until done ; strain and separate the meat from the bones, and set aside to cool ; pour the liquor into a jar, and when cold remove the grease. Take a shank of beef and boil it until the 20 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER meat falls in pieces; remove it from the liquor. Cut the meat from the calf's feet and the beef into small pieces ; put the jelly into a pan ; add to it the meat ; mix well to- gether, and heat to the boiling-point. Sea- son with red pepper and salt to taste ; pour into a mould to set. POTTED BEEF Take 4 pounds of corned beef ; place in a pan with a little suet and water ; cook in an oven ; when done pound in a mortar till it is perfectly smooth ; season with, cayenne, salt, pepper, a little mace, some of the gravy, and half a pound of melted butter. When thor- oughly mixed put into pots and cover with melted butter. POTTED MEAT Chop any kind of cold meat ; season with salt, pepper, cloves, and cinnamon ; moisten with a little wine, vinegar, and Worcester- shire sauce. Pack the meat in a jar, and cover it with about half an inch of melted butter. This meat will keep for some time. MEATS 21 POTTED OX-TONGUE Boil a fresh tongue ; skin, clean, and re- move the bones ; when cold mince very fine, and add 4 ounces of butter to each pound of tongue, some mace, nutmeg, cloves, paprika, salt, and a little black pepper; mix well; place in jars and pour melted butter over. RED BEEF Take a piece of corned beef and season it with pounded mace, cloves, pepper, a little allspice, salt, chopped parsley, and shallot. Boil it till tender; cut into thin slices; serve cold. RIBS OF BEEF A LA PORCUPINE Bone the flat ribs and beat them flat ; rub over with the yolks of eggs ; sprinkle on bread crumbs, parsley, leeks, marjoram, lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little paprika ; roll it up very tightly ; lard it with bacon; then a row of cold tongue, another of pickled cucumbers, a fourth row of lemon- peel ; do it over in rows as above till it has been larded all over ; then place in a deep 22 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER pot with a little water ; cook in a slow oven. Serve cold. SPICED BEEF Place 2 pounds of beef in a saucepan, to- gether with one cupful of wine, the same quantity of water, 3 tablespoonfuls of vin- egar, cinnamon, pepper, salt, and onions; cover the saucepan very tightly ; place over a slow fire for two hours ; take the meat from the gravy and set aside to cool. VINAIGRETTE (1 .) Rub 1 teaspoonf ul of sugar, 1 tablespoon- ful of mustard, salt and pepper to taste, into the yolks of 2 eggs ; add 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, set in a bain-marie, and cook until it is of the consistency of cream ; allow to cool. Boil 4 pounds of beef brisket until quite tender ; when cold, dish on a flat plate and mask with the dressing ; sprinkle over it chopped parsley, pickles, and a little shal- lot, (2.) Place a piece of beef in a pan, and stew with a little water, a glass of wine, sweet MEATS 23 herbs, an onion, bay-leaves, cloves, salt, and pepper; when done, strain the liquor, re- move the fat carefully, and add a little vine- gar ; serve cold with the sauce. COLLARED BREAST OF LAMB ♦ Bone the ]amb, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, grate over it a little lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, and salt ; chop up 2 table- spoonfuls of capers, 2 anchovies, some pars- ley, and a few sweet herbs ; mix with bread crumbs, and spread over the lamb; roll it up, and boil two hours ; take it up and put it into a pickle. COLLARED NECK OF PORK Bone the neck, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, chopped sage, a little allspice, some pepper and salt, mixed together. Boll it up close, and bind very tightly; roast for an hour and a half in a slow oven. COLLARED SUCKING PIG Bone the pig, rub it well with pepper, salt, a few sage leaves and sweet herbs chopped fine ; roll up very tightly. Fill a pot with 24 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER water, and add to it a bunch of sweet herbs, a few pepper-eorns, a blade of mace, some cloves, salt to taste, and a pint of vinegar ; when it comes to a boil put in the pig and allow it to boil till tender. When done take it up and cool; then place in a vessel and pour the liquor over it. FORCED PIG'S EARS Parboil 2 pairs of pig's ears ; make a force- meat of an anchovy, sage, parsley, a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, bread crumbs, pepper, and a little salt ; mix with the yolks of 2 eggs. Eaise the skin of the upper part of the ears and stuff them with the force- meat. Fry the ears in butter, and drain them ; make a rich gravy as follows : a glass of sherry, 3 teaspoonfuls of made mustard a little butter, a small onion, a little pepper and some paprika. Put the ears in a stew pan with the gravy, and cover very closely stew gently for half an hour. When done strain the gravy and reduce to a jelly place the ears on a dish and pour the jelly MEATS 25 over them. When set, garnish with pars- ley. SUCKING PIG AU PERE DUILLET Cut off the head, quarter the body, lard it with bacon, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Lay some fat bacon on the bottom of a pan, place the head in the centre, and arrange the quarters around it ; add a bay-leaf, a chopped onion, a lemon, some carrots, parsley, and the liver ; cover all with bacon ; stew for an hour in a quart of stock, take it up, put in a stewpan, and pour over it a bottle of wine ; simmer gently for an hour. Skim the fat off the first gravy ; strain it ; add to it a sweetbread cut into slices, some trufljes, and mushrooms ; stew the whole until it jellies ; put the wine in which the pig was stewed into the jelly, pour it over the pig, and garnish with pars- ley. Ipoultrs BRAISED FOWL Bone the fowl and stuff with force-meat. Fry a few slices of onions in a stewpan; add the bones and trimmings of the chicken, a bunch of herbs, a few blades of mace, and a pint of broth. Cover the chicken with slices of bacon, cover the pan very tight- ly, and stew for half an hour. Strain the braise gravy, and boil it up quickly to a jelly. Glaze the chicken with it, and serve cold. CHICKEN CHEESE Boil two chickens in a quart of water. When done take them out of the water and remove the bones. Mince the meat very fine together with 2 or 3 truffles, return to POULTRY 27 the water, and cook until almost dry. Pour into a deep dish, cover, and place a weight on the cover. Put in a cool place. CHICKEN JELLY Pound half a raw chicken with the bones and meat, cover it with cold water, and al- low to simmer till the meat is reduced to rags and the liquor to about half. Strain, and pass through a very fine sieve. Salt and pepper to taste. Return to the fire and simmer for five minutes. Skim, and keep in a cool place. BRAISED DUCKS Dress, singe, and lard with bacon a couple of ducks. Season with parsley, mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Lay some slices of fat bacon on the bottom of a stewpan ; put in the ducks with the breast downward ; cover them with slices of bacon ; cut a carrot, turnip, onion, and celery stalks ; mix with mace, four or five cloves, and pepper. Cover well, and simmer over a slow fire till the breasts of the ducks are of a light brown ; 28 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER then put in some water, and cook till done. Chop very line parsley, shallot, gherkins, capers, and 2 anchovies. Place in a stewpan with some of the liquor of the ducks, a little aspic jelly, and the juice of a small lemon. Boil it. Lay the ducks on a dish, pour over them the sauce, and serve cold. The sauce will form a glaze over the ducks. GOOSE MARINADED Bone and stuff with the -following mixt- ure : 12 sage -leaves, 2 large onions, 2 ap- ples ; chop fine and mix with bread crumbs, 4 ounces of beef suet, a glass of port, half a grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, grated lemon- peel, and the yolks of 4 eggs. Stuff the goose, sew it up, and fry till it is light brown. Put into a stewpan with 2 quarts of broth, cover closely, and stew for two hours. Take out the goose, and allow to cool. Take the fat from the gravy and acid a tablespoonful of lemon pickle, port, an anchovy, mace, pepper, and salt. Allow to boil till reduced to a jelly, pour over the POULTRY 29 goose, and allow to cool. Garnish with beets cut into fancy shapes and sprigs of parsley. PIGEON CUTLETS Cut off the breasts and wings of six pigeons ; flatten them out and trim in the shape of cutlets. Fry in butter, a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, an onion, and 2 or 3 button mushrooms, and pour over the pigeons. Season them with salt and pepper, dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs ; fry in butter, and serve cold with tartar sauce. PIGEONS IN JELLY (1.) Boil a calf's foot. Put the broth in a pan with a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, salt, lemon-peel, a slice of lean bacon, and the pigeons. Bake them. When done, take them out and allow to cool. Clarify the jelly with the whites of 2 eggs, and strain it through a thick cloth. Put the jelly over the pigeons, and garnish. (2.) Pick and roast two pigeons. Make a jelly as in the preceding receipt, and with it 30 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER half fill a deep bowl. When the jelly and the birds are cold, lay the birds breast down in the jelly, and pour the rest of it over them, so as to completely cover them. When hard, turn oat on a flat plate or dish, and garnish with parsley. PUPTON PIGEONS Make some force-meat ; roll it out like paste, put it in a buttered dish, and lay over it thin slices of bacon, squabs, sliced sweet- breads, asparagus tips, mushrooms, and hard- boiled eggs. Put another layer of force- meat over the whole. Bake it, and when done turn it out into a dish. Serve cold. TURKEY IN JELLY Bone a turkey and stuff it with force- meat, to which add 6 truffles and 12 mush- rooms. Lard it with fat bacon ; tie it up ; put in a pan just large enough to hold it. Add 2 quarts of strong stock, and stew for three hours. Allow it to cool ; take the fat off the gravy. Dish the turkey, and pour the jelly over it. 6ame FLORENTINE HAKE Bone a hare, except the head ; make a stuffing of bread crumbs, the chopped liver, half a pound of bacon, a glass of red wine, an anchovy, 2 eggs, a little sweet-marjoram, thyme, salt, pepper, and nutmeg; fill the hare with the stuffing, being careful to force it up to the head ; sew the opening, tie in a cloth, and boil for an hour and a half in two quarts of water ; when reduced to half add a pint of port, a tablespoonful of lemon- juice, and one of catsup. When done, take out the hare and allow to cool ; fill the eyes with a little piece of beet, and place sprigs of parsley in the mouth. Reduce the liquor to half a pint, or until it jellies ; pour over 32 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER the hare ; garnish with rounds of hard-boiled eggs, beets, and sprigs of parsley. LARDED HARE Bone a hare, lay it flat on a board, and season with pepper, spices, chopped mush- rooms, parsley, thyme, and shallots ; spread force-meat over it, roll it up very tightly, and lard it with bacon. Put the bones and some ham into a stewpan with a few bay-leaves, onions, thyme, parsley, a few blades of mace, and half a pint of port ; cover the bones with fat bacon, put in the hare, and cover it also with bacon ; set on a slow fire to simmer for two hours ; take out the hare, and allow to cool ; glaze with aspic jelly ; garnish with parsley. PARTRIDGES A LA FRANQAISE Truss the partridges and skewer them ; cover the breasts with slices of lemon, and over them lay some fat bacon ; wrap them in paper and tie tightly. Roast for three- quarters of an hour ; when done take off the paper and serve cold with the juice of Sev- ille oranges. GAME 33 POTTED PARTRIDGES (1.) Truss the partridges; season inside with salt and pepper; place in a stewpan lined with slices of lean ham ; add a bunch of thyme, some whole pepper, and allspice ; cover with slices of ham ; add a pint of water; cover tightly and stew for two hours ; keep in the pot till cold, then put into pots with a few whole pepper-corns ; pour clarified butter over them and cover tightly till used. (2.) Clean the partridges, and season with mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; lay them breast downwards on a pan ; pack the birds as close as possible ; add plenty of butter ; cover the pan very well and bake. When cold put the birds in pots and cover with butter. POTTED RABBITS Cut up 2 young rabbits, and take the leg bones out at the thigh ; pack in a small pan and season with finely chopped pepper, mace, cayenne, and allspice; add plenty of 3 34 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER butter, and bake gently. Keep in the pan for two days; then place in the pots and cover with clarified butter. RABBITS EN GALANTINE Bone and flatten out 2 young rabbits ; lay force-meat upon them, slices of ham, and egg omelets ; roll up tight and fasten them ; lard with fat bacon ; cook in a slow oven, and serve cold ; glaze with aspic jelly colored with beet juice; garnish with parsley. RABBITS A LA PORTUGUESE Bone 2 rabbits, and spread force-meat over them. Put the bones in a stewpan with some onions, a few sweet herbs, a little mace, and a few bay-leaves ; lay the rabbits over this and cover them with bacon ; pour over a pint of stock and set the pan on the fire ; simmer very slowly for an hour ; strain off the liquor, remove the fat, and boil the sauce to a jelly ; add to it a few truffles chopped fine. Serve the rabbits, and when cold glaze them with the jelly. Degetables Almost every variety of vegetables can be eaten cold ; and as the manner of preparing them is not unlike that of salads, but few receipts are given. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS Boil 6 artichoke bottoms in salt and water ; when done take them out and remove the chokes; boil till tender, and allow to cool. Spread some anchovy paste over each, and mask with a mayonnaise dressing ; garnish with hard-boiled eggs and capers. ASPARAGUS Drain a can of asparagus tips and wash in cold water. Fresh asparagus may be used if preferred. Place the asparagus on ice, and serve with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. 36 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATI1ER BEETS Cook and peel the beets ; when cold cut into rounds, place in a deep dish, and cover with vinegar ; add a little salt. CUCUMBERS Cut large cucumbers into rounds ; place on ice ; serve with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. Tomatoes may be prepared in the same man- ner. ONIONS Cut the onions into rounds, and pour boil- ing water over them ; allow to stand for five minutes; then throw off the water. This will do away with the strong odor and bring out the delicate flavor. Place the onions in a deep dish and cover with vinegar ; season with red peppers cut into strips and salt. Vouchees ANCHOVY BUTTEK Wash, bone, and pound 6 anchovies, add- ing sufficient butter to make a paste ; scald some parsley and rub it through a sieve; mix the ingredients well ; spread the butter on toast, and garnish with parsley. ANCHOVY CANAPES Scale and wipe dry some oil-preserved an- chovies; cut them into long strips; wrap each strip in a piece of pastry, being care- ful to close the ends ; fry in very hot lard. Dish, and sprinkle a little grated Parmesan cheese over them while hot ; let cool, and garnish with lettuce-leaves. ANCHOVY CREAM Wash, bone, and pound 9 anchovies to- gether with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, 1 38 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER tablespoonful of oil, a little cayenne, and a few drops of carmine ; when quite smooth mix in two tablespoonfuls of liquid aspic, and rub through a sieve; add two table- spoonfuls of whipped cream, and set aside till needed. ANCHOVY CROUTONS Pound the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, 1 ounce of butter, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence, and paprika to taste ; pass through a very fine sieve, and add 2 boned anchovies pounded to a paste ; mix well and spread on thin rounds of brown bread or toast. Gar- nish with strips of green and red peppers. ANCHOVY FINGERS Rub two ounces of butter and G of flour till quite smooth ; add 1 teaspoonful of an- chovy essence, cayenne, a well-beaten egg, and enough cold water to make a nice light paste; roll out very thin, prick it with a fork, cut it in strips, and bake in a moderate oven. When cold make sandwiches of the fingers, placing anchovy butter between BOUCHEES 39 them. Brush the top over with a little aspic jelly ; before it becomes hard, sprinkle some of the fingers with finely minced parsley, others with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg passed through a sieve, and the remainder with the white of the egg finely chopped. When the jelly has become quite firm, gar- nish with lettuce-leaves and serve. CAVIARE BOUCHEES Cut small circles of bread and brown them in butter. Chop together to a paste some cress, nicely picked and dried, and the same quantity of butter; mix well and spread a little on each toast ; spread some caviare on top of this and garnish with parsley. DUCHESS BOUCHEES Mix equal parts of curry-powder, powdered truffles, bread crumbs, and browned flour; add the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, grated rind of half a lemon, 1 tablespoonful of Chili sauce, a little butter, and 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Season with salt, red pepper, and nutmeg to taste ; stir this over a slow 40 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER fire until quite brown and thick ; cool, and serve on small toasts or crackers. DEVILED EGGS Boil until hard 6 eggs ; when cool shell and divide in half; remove the yolks and mix them with the same quantity of deviled ham ; refill the whites. Dish in a nest of lettuce- leaves, and garnish with beet cut into fancy shapes. EGGS A LA INFANTA Boil until hard 6 eggs ; shell and cut in half lengthwise ; remove the yolks, being careful not to break the whites. Pound the yolks smooth, and mix with half a pint of mayonnaise dressing. Make a nest of lettuce- leaves, and place the whites on it ; fill them with the yolks and mayonnaise. Garnish with capers and a beet cut into fancy shapes. PARISIAN CANAPES Cut small oblongs of stale bread, and fry in butter to a light brown ; place on a piece of paper to cool — the paper will also absorb BOUCHEES 41 all the butter. Spread each piece with an- chovy butter, and place on each a boned an- chovy; sprinkle over them finely chopped olives mixed with a little chopped chives. DMes anfc patties The cost and trouble of making patty- cases is such that it is far preferable to buy them at the caterers' ; especially is it desira- ble, as then the cook will not run the risk of spoiling the paste. Pie pastry is not so easily spoiled as patty or puff paste, and as this is not obtainable, the cook will have to tempt fate and try her own skill at making it herself. CHICKEN PATTIES Cut the white meat of a chicken into small pieces. Place in a saucepan half a pint of stock and 2 ounces of lean ham chopped fine ; let simmer. Mix a spoonful of butter and one of flour. Boil' the broth to about half the original quantity ; strain into a half-pint PIES AND PATTIES 43 measure and fill up ^with cream ; stir this into the flour and butter; when thick add the chicken. Keep at the boiling-point for five or six minutes ; set aside to cool ; when cold fill the patty-cases ; garnish with sprigs of parsley. CHESIIIKE POKK PIE Skin a loin of pork ; cut into small steaks ; season with salt, nutmeg, and pepper. Make a pie-crust, and fill with a layer of pork, then one of apples, pared and cored, and sugar enough to sweeten it, then another layer of pork ; pour over half a pint of white wine, and cover all with a little butter before covering the pie. Serve cold. HAM-AND-VEAL PATTIES Chop 6 ounces of lean veal, 3 ounces of ham ; put into a stewpan with 1 ounce of butter rolled in flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 tablespoonf uls of veal stock, nutmeg, a little lemon -peel, paprika, salt, and lemon -juice. Stir over fire, and when cold fill the patty- cases. 44 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER MINCE PATTIES Chop a cold veal kidney and some fat ; add an apple, orange, candied lemon-peel, fresh currants, a little wine, cloves, brandy, and sugar. Fill the patty -cases, bake, and serve cold. OX-CHEEK PIE Line a deep dish with puff-paste. Boil the ox-cheek with seasoning ; cut into small pieces ; lay in the dish, and throw over them 1 ounce truffles, the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, a cup of mushroom pickles, half a cup of asparagus tips, and several force-meat balls. Season with pepper and salt, and fill up the pie with the gravy in which the cheek was boiled. Cover it with the crust, and place in the oven ; when done allow to cool. PRINCESS PATTIES Fill the patty-cases with the following mixture: place 1 pint stock broth, half a pint of milk, seasoning, a little grated nut- meg, and thyme in a saucepan ; boil for five minutes, then add a little roux and the liquor TIES AND PATTIES 45 from 1 till of mushrooms ; boil until it be- comes thick. Chop the meat of a fowl, half a pound of lean ham, and mushrooms finely, then add to the sauce ; simmer a little while ; then cool. SAVORY ROLLS Place in a saucepan 1 ounce of butter, a lit- tle shallot, sweet herbs, and parsley chopped fine ; fry slowly for five minutes ; then add 1 pint broth, some seasoning, the liquor from 1 tin mushrooms, and 2 pounds of rump steak ; simmer for an hour, then take out the steak, and thicken the gravy with a little roux ; boil three minutes. Chop the mush- rooms, steak, and 4 hard-boiled eggs finely ; stir gently into the sauce; allow to cool. Eoll out some puff-paste very thin and cut into four-inch squares ; place a little of the mixture in the centre of each, touch the edges with egg, fold over, and pinch the edges together; place on a baking-tin and bake a light brown. Serve cold. 46 COLD DISHES FOR DOT WEATHER SAUSAGE ROLLS Cut three-quarters of a pound of pork and 3 ounces of fat into small pieces and mince, adding salt, pepper, mace, and allspice ; spread on a board, and add 3 ounces of bread crumbs and seasoning; mix well. Eoll puff-paste out to about a quarter of an inch, cut into squares, put some of the mixture on each square, wet the edges, fold over the meat, press the edges together, brush over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a moderate oven. sheep's-head pie Lay a sheep's head in salt and water over- night ; wash it thoroughly with warm water ; take out the soft bones from the nostrils ; boil it till it is tender; chop the meat, to- gether with half a pound of bacon and 1 hard-boiled egg ; then add salt, pepper, some finely minced parsley, with half a pint of the liquor in which the head w T as boiled ; put in a pie-dish, and cover with a short crust ; bake in a moderate oven. PIES AND PATTIES 47 SWEETBREAD PIE Lay a puff-paste at the bottom of a dish. Cut the sweetbreads into small pieces, and place them in the dish, then add some arti- choke bottoms, truffles, asparagus tips, fresh mushrooms, and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in some rich veal gravy ; thicken with cream and flour. Bake in a moderate oven. Serve cold. SHROPSHIRE PIE Cover a dish with a good puff-paste. Chop together a rabbit and 1 pound of fat pork ; season with salt and pepper ; lay the rabbit and pork in the dish. Parboil the liver of the rabbit, and beat in a mortar together with the same quantity of bacon and a few sweet herbs; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; mix it with the yolk of an egg; make into balls and throw into the pie, add- ing to it a pint of white wine and some nut- meg. Bake in a quick oven for an hour. Serve cold. 48 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER SWEET PATTIES Chop the meat of a calf's foot, boiled, to- gether with 2 apples, an ounce of candied orange and lemon-peel, some fresh peel, and lemon-juice; mix with grated nutmeg, the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy, and 4 ounces of currants. Fill the patty-cases, bake, and serve cold. TURKEY PATTIES Mince some of the white meat of a turkey, and season with lemon-peel, nutmeg, salt, pepper, cream, and a little butter ; place over the fire, and thicken with a little flour. When cold, fill the patty-cases and serve. VEAL PIE Chop a little ham, some cold veal, and beef suet together with an onion, some pars- ley, lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, mace, paprika, and bread crumbs. Bind with an egg or two. Fill the patty-cases ; place in a quick oven. Serve cold. ffisb patties OYSTER PATTIES Boil 2 dozen oysters, strain, bread, and cut them into small pieces ; place in a stew- pan with 1 ounce of butter rolled in flour, half a gill of cream, grated lemon-peel, and half the oyster liquor ; season with paprika, salt, and lemon-juice. Stir over the fire for five minutes, and fill the patty-cases. LOBSTER PATTIES Boil a lobster, pick out the meat from the tail and claws, chop it fine, place in a stewpan with a little of the spawn pound- ed in a mortar till perfectly smooth. Add 1 ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, paprika, salt, a teaspoonful of anchovy es- sence, a little flour and water. Stew for 4 50 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER live minutes. Fill the patty-cases, and al- low to cool. PRAWN PATTIES To 1 pint of broth add a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, pepper, salt, and some grated nutmeg ; boil for ten minutes, then add a little roux ; boil and thicken. Add a pint of prawns ; let come to a boil ; when cold fill the patty-cases. Garnish with parsley. SALMON PATTIES Take half a can of salmon ; flake and mix with half a pint of cream thickened with a spoonful of butter rolled in corn-starch; season with salt, pepper, anchovy sauce, and a few olives chopped fine. Allow to cool, and fill the patty-cases. Goto Sauces anfc Dressings There is nothing more disagreeable to the palate than the taste of cold grease or fat ; bearing this in mind, the cook will always remove the fat from the sauces. In making dressing for salads it is always necessary that all the ingredients should be thoroughly incorporated before the dress- ing is added to the salad. To obtain this result satisfactorily it is necessary to mix the dressing in a cool room, and to have all the ingredients as cold as possible. When the dressing has assumed the proper consist- ency it should be placed on the ice until the very moment of sending to the table. ALBERT DRESSING Mix well 4 tablespoonfuls of olive - oil, 52 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER 1 tablespoonful of wine, 1 tablespoonful of cider vinegar, a little paprika, and salt to taste. Place on the ice till wanted. ASPIC SAUCE Bub smooth the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs ; add 1 ounce of salt, a quarter of a pint of oil — by degrees — till it becomes thick ; then add 1 teaspoonful of anchovy essence and 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Mix well and set on the ice. CREAM DRESSING To the juice of 1 lemon add 2 tablespoon- fuls of drawn butter, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard, the beaten yolks of three raw eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and salt to taste; beat smooth and set in a bain-marie until it becomes a thick cream. CUCUMBER DRESSING Remove the seeds from two large cucum- bers ; grate and drain ; add to them 1 table- spoonful of finely chopped fresh red pepper, and mix with half a pint of mayonnaise dressing. COLD SAUCES AND DRESSINGS 53 DUTCH SAUCE Grate a cupful of horseradish; boil in a quarter of a pint of water ; strain the water into 3 ounces of butter rubbed smooth with 3 ounces of flour; add to the horseradish, and stir to a smooth paste; add 2 table- spoonfuls of cream, and the yolks of 6 eggs well beaten, with 3 tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar ; salt to taste. GREEN SAUCE Take equal quantities of tarragon, chervil, and cress ; wash well ; acid the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs and 2 anchovies ; pound all the ingredients well in a mortar; strain through a very fine sieve, and add olive-oil and lemon-juice as in making mayonnaise ; season with pepper, salt, and mustard. HORSERADISH SAUCE Wash and scrape clean a large root of horseradish; grate fine. Put in a dish, and add 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar, 3 tablespoon- fuls of stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and salt ; mix well together until the sugar 54 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER is dissolved. This sauce will keep good for two or three weeks. MINT SAUCE Wash, pick, and mince the mint ; place in a sauce-bowl with some sugar and vinegar; stir until the sugar is dissolved. MAYONNAISE DRESSING Chill the yolk of a raw egg on ice ; then put the yolk on a very cold plate, and add a little salt and a gill of olive-oil, drop by drop, stirring constantly in the same direc- tion ; when it forms a cream, add a teaspoon- ful of French mustard and a tablespoonful of cider vinegar; stir all the time to keep from curdling. Lemon -juice or tarragon vinegar may be used instead of the cider vinegar. MINT AND PARSLEY SAUCE Take equal quantities of mint and parsley ; mince, and add melted butter, a little lemon- juice, and salt to taste. NETHERLAND SAUCE Put 6 tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar in a 4 COLD SAUCES AND DRESSINGS 55 saucepan ; allow to boil until reduced to half the quantity ; when cold, add the yolks of 3 eggs, well beaten, a little nutmeg, and 5 ounces of butter. Place on a slow fire until thick, stirring constantly ; then put in a bain-marie, add 3 ounces of butter, and beat to a froth. Cool on ice. PLAIN OR FRENCH DRESSING Mix well together 3 tablespoonfuls of olive- oil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, salt, and a little pepper. Keep cool until wanted. RAVIGOTE SAUCE Mince together cresses, chervil, tarragon, a few celery stalks, and 2 bay-leaves ; add a tablespoonful of capers, 2 anchovies, salt, and pepper ; pound all the ingredients in a mortar, and add the yolk of a raw egg, a lit- tle oil, and vinegar; beat to a cream, and add a little mustard. SALAD DRESSING Take the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, 1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, mustard, 56 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER and a teaspoonf ul of catsup ; mix well, and add 4 tablespoonf uls of oil, and 1 tablespoon- ful of cider vinegar ; beat the whole to a cream. SAUCE FOR COLD MEATS Grate a cupful of horseradish ; add a ta- blespoonful of sugar, and cover with vine- gar ; add salt and a tablespoonf ul of French mustard. SAUCE FOR FISH Pound a tablespoonf ul of grated horserad- ish, 4 shallots, a clove of garlic, a salt-spoon- ful of mustard, and one of celery salt ; add a little paprika. Pound well, and mix with half a pint of cucumber vinegar and a quar- ter of a pint each of shallot and horseradish vinegar. Let stand for three or four days ; strain, and bottle the liquor. TARTAR SAUCE (1.) Mince 2 shallots, a little chervil, and tar- ragon ; put in a vessel with mustard, a glass- ful of vinegar, salt, pepper, and a little oil ; stir constantly. If too thick, add a little COLD SAUCES AND DRESSINGS 57 (2.) Chop fine, and add 4 or 5 olives, a gherkin, and a tablespoonful of capers to half a pint of mayonnaise dressing; mix well and serve. VINAIGRETTE SAUCE Mix together thoroughly 2 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar, salt, and a little paprika ; add a tablespoon- ful of finely chopped parsley, and 2 finely chopped olives. Salafcs Lettuce, cresses, parsley, etc., are always used in salads ; if not in their composition, they are used to garnish the dish, and, of course, should be as crisp as possible. Salad greens should be kept on ice, so that they will retain their freshness. Before making the salad the greens should be picked and placed in cold water until read} T to use, when they should be thorough- ly dried and placed in the dish. AMERICAN SALAD Wash and pick 1 quart mixed salad; let drain ; dry with a cloth. Cut very fine, and place in a dish, making a hollow in the cen- tre. To 2 eggs add 1 teaspoonful of made mustard and salt ; beat well, and add half a SALADS 59 cup of oil and the same quantity of vinegar. Stir in half a cup of cream ; pour the sauce over the salad. Cut two apples in thin slices, lay them around the salad, and gar- nish with beet. Bone 6 sardines and cut them lengthwise ; take each half and roll up in a strip of lettuce, and stand them in the centre of the salad. ANCHOVY SALAD Kemove the bones, heads, and tails of 6 anchovies. Wash two heads of lettuce, cut them small, and place on a dish. Add 6 button onions chopped finely, parsley, sliced lemon, and anchovies. Pour over the juice of a lemon mixed with a tablespoonful of oil. CEAB SALAD Boil 25 hard-shell crabs for about twenty or twenty -five minutes. When cool remove the top shell and tail ; quarter the remain- der, and pick out the meat carefully with a fork. The large claws should not be over- looked, nor the fat which adheres to the 60 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER shell. Cut up an amount of celery equal in bulk to the crab meat ; mix both together with a plain salad dressing. Put in a salad- bowl, and mask with a mayonnaise dressing ; garnish with crab claws, shrimps, and hard- boiled eggs. COD SALAD Soak the cod overnight. Boil separately potatoes, carrots, and onions ; chop fine, and add to the cod, whifch has been previously cooked and shredded. Make a dressing of 1 beaten egg, chopped parsley, fresh marjoram, oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste. Pour the dressing over the salad and garnish with rounds of hard-boiled egg. SALMON SALAD (1.) Cut up a pint of cold boiled potatoes. Take equal quantities of cabbage, cucum- ber pickles, and canned salmon sufficient to make, after chopping, a pint in all. Chop the cabbage and pickles together, very fine. Remove all bits of bone and skin from the salmon, and pick into pieces. Mix together SALADS 61 with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, salt, and half a teaspoonful of dry mustard, 2 table- spoonfuls of oil, and 4 of vinegar; when smooth stir into the cabbage and cucumber, then stir in the potatoes and fish, and serve. (2.) Chop 3 cold boiled potatoes and mix with 1 can of salmon; rub smooth the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs ; season to taste with mustard, pepper, and salt ; add 2 table- spoonfuls of cream and 4 of vinegar. Pour over the fish and potatoes. (3.) Place in a salad-bowl G stalks of cel- ery, sliced, and 1 pound of canned salmon ; arrange neatly; add mayonnaise dressing, and garnish with parsley and rounds of hard-boiled eggs. (4.) Take cold salmon cut into squares; dress in a dome in the centre of the dish, mask with a mayonnaise dressing, sprinkle whole capers over it, and encircle the base with rounds of hard-boiled eggs, and around this wreathe lettuce-leaves. 62 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER SARDINE SALAD (1.) Take 3 heads of lettuce, 1 box sar- dines, 1 egg, half a cup of milk, half a tea- spoonful of mustard, seasoning, a little roux, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy paste, a pinch of sugar, and a boiled potato. Put the milk and seasoning in a pan with enough roux to make a thick sauce ; let cool, and add to it the vinegar, mustard, anchovy paste, and half the oil of the sardines ; mix well, and keep in a very cold place. Wash and. dry the lettuce, place on a dish, and press together with the hands, and. add the potato, cut small ; pour the sauce over it ; lay the sardines on this, and ornament with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs passed through a sieve, and the whites chopped line; finish with rings and dia- monds of beets. (2.) Take 6 sardines, remove the skin and bone, and pour lemon -juice over them. Place in a salad-bowl with a crisp head of lettuce; chop up 2 hard-boiled eggs, add SALADS 63 to the fish, and serve with a plain dress- ing. BEEF . SALAD Cut into pieces an inch in length half a pound of cold meat ; take 2 heads of lettuce, and wipe on a smooth cloth ; place them in a salad-bowl; add the beef. Chop up a sweet Spanish pepper and add to the salad. Prepare a plain dressing, pour it over the salad, and mix gently. ITALIAN CHICKEN SALAD Make a dressing of the yolks of 3 hard- boiled eggs pounded fine, equal quantities of mustard and paprika, a pinch of powdered sugar, 4 tablespoon fuls of oil, 2 tablespoon- fuls of vinegar. Simmer over the fire, but do not allow to boil. Take the white meat of two chickens, and separate into flakes; pile it in the middle of a dish, and pour the dressing over it. Cut up two heads of let- tuce, and arrange around the chicken. On top of the lettuce place the whites of the eggs, cut into rings, and lay so as to form a chain. 64 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER RABBIT SALAD Cut up the meat of 2 roast rabbits ; place in a bowl and cover with a plain dress- ing ; add a teaspoonf ul of minced salad herbs, and let stand for four hours. Put in a salad-bowl 3 heads of lettuce ; drain the meat and add to the lettuce. Put into a plate 1 teaspoonf ul of French mustard ; thin with 1 tablespoonful of the dressing taken from the meat, and add slowly to this 1 pint of mayonnaise dressing, and pour over the salad. RUSSIAN SALAD Chop and mix carefully together 2 ounces of roast chicken, and the same quantity of ham, beef-tongue, beef, and mutton, 4 truf- fles, 12 anchovies, 3 stalks of celery, 2 heads of lettuce. Mix with 8 tablespoonfuls of sauce tartare, and serve. SALADE DE VEAU Take some cold veal, mince, and soak in oil and vinegar for two hours. Put into a bowl with 1 teaspoonful of mustard and 2 SALADS 65 teaspoonf uls of pounded anchovies ; add some oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, chopped pickles, and whole capers, pour over the veal and serve. SALPICON DE CARNE (1.) Cut equal portions of cold meat and cold boiled potatoes into half-inch cubes; mix well, and dress with plain salad dress- ing, adding chopped parsley and fresh mar- joram. Over this place rounds of onions which have been previously soaked in vine- gar for two hours. (2.) Cut cold meat into half-inch cubes; boil and chop an onion and add to it the meat. To this add olives, fresh marjoram, and pars- ley. Dress with a plain salad dressing and serve. SALPICON DE GUATITAS This is made in the same manner as the preceding receipt, using tripe instead of the meat. ASPARAGUS SALAD Drain 1 can of asparagus tips ; throw into 66 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER cold water ; drain again immediately, and wipe dry. Put into a salad-bowl, and pour over it French dressing. BEET SALAD (1.) Choose 6 large beets ; bake them in a slow oven ; peel and cut into small squares. Peel and cut into rounds 6 button onions, pour boiling water over them, and allow to stand for ten minutes. Throw off the water and repeat. Mix in a salad-bowl with the beets and chopped parsley. Pour French dressing over it and serve. (2.) Cut into thin slices 4 small beets ; boil 2 white onions, cut fine ; add to the beets, and serve with a mayonnaise dressing. BREAD SALAD Cut into pieces about half an inch square a stale loaf of bread ; chop equal parts of cold boiled potatoes, tomatoes, and cucum- bers ; season with a little grated onion, 1 ta- blespoonful of oil, the juice of 2 lemons, pep- per and salt, and chopped parsley ; mix with SALADS 61 the bread; let stand for a quarter of an hour before serving. CABBAGE SALAD (1.) Cut a small cabbage as if for cold slaw. Make a dressing of the following in- gredients : 3 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 3 of melted butter, half a teaspoonful of pep- per, salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of made mustard, 1 cup of cider vinegar ; stir well to- gether, all but the cream, and cook over the fire until they come to a boil. Set the dress- ing aside to cool; when cold add the cream, and pour over the cabbage. (2.) Take a small cabbage and shred ; add 4 stalks of celery chopped fine. Place in a salad-bowl and pour over it a pint of may- onnaise dressing. Garnish with parsley. (3.) Chop up the cabbage quite fine ; place in a saucepan and pour boiling water over it, and acid a little salt. Let stand for half an hour; wash in cold water and dry thorough- ly; when dry place in a salad-bowl and add hard-boiled eggs and parsley chopped fine. G8 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER Serve with plain salad dressing and add some olives. Carrot salad is made in the same manner as described in the preceding receipt. CAULIFLOWER SALAD (1.) Boil the cauliflower ; when cold tear apart, dry on a soft cloth, and put in a salad- bowl. Pour over it half a pint of mayon- naise dressing. Garnish with lettuce-leaves and rings of hard-boiled eggs. (2.) Boil the cauliflower until cooked, be- ing careful not to overdo it. Chop it fine, and add chopped hard-boiled eggs and pars- ley. Garnish with olives and beets cut in fancy shapes. Pour French dressing over all. CRESS SALAD Take equal parts of cresses and celery stalks ; cut up, place in a salad-bowl, and sprinkle with sweet herbs ; pour over this a mayonnaise or plain dressing and serve very cold. EGO-PLANT SALAD Boil the egg-plant until cooked ; peel and SALADS 69 cut into small pieces ; add the juice of a lem- on, 1 tablespoonful of oil. Mix well and serve. GERMAN SALAD Boil a cauliflower in well-salted water un- til quite tender. When sufficiently cooked place in a sieve to drain. When cold divide the cauliflower into small pieces. Mask with mayonnaise dressing and garnish with beets cut into fancy shapes. GRAPE-FRUIT EN MAYONNAISE Wash and dry 2 heads of lettuce, and make a nest in the salad-bowl ; sprinkle over a lit- tle oil and vinegar, and season with salt and pepper. Peel the grape-fruit and separate into sections ; split the membrane so that the pulp of the fruit can be extracted ; sep- arate into small bits and toss into the pre- pared nest. Mask with mayonnaise dressing and set in a cool place. JARDINIERE SALAD Take equal quantities of cold cooked pota- toes, turnips, string-beans, beets, celery, and 70 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER tomatoes. Put in a salad- bowl, and add chopped pickle, hard-boiled eggs, olives, ca- pers, and shred lettuce; pour over a may- onnaise dressing, and garnish with lettuce- leaves. KALE SALAD Strip the inside leaves from the kale, place in a salad-bowl, and pour over the whole a French dressing. Garnish with cresses. LENTIL SALAD Cook the lentils in salted water, and drain. Put the lentils in a bowl, and add 1 chopped onion ; stir in 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; add some chopped egg and shred lettuce; season w T ith salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and decorate with parsley. LIMA-BEAN SALAD Boil the Lima beans in water with a little salt, a bunch of parsley, and an onion until quite tender ; drain. Mix with 2 tablespoon- fuls of oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a lit- tle chopped thyme and mint. Serve quite cold. SALADS 71 LETTUCE SALAD Wash the lettuce thoroughly in cold water and dry with a soft cloth. Separate the leaves with the hand ; otherwise they will become flabby. Place in a salad-bowl and dress with French or mayonnaise dress- ing. PEA SALAD Cook the pease in salted water ; when done put aside to cool. Add to them a hard-boiled egg and a boiled white onion, chopped fine. Pour over them a dressing made of oil, lemon- juice, and salt and pepper to taste. PERSIAN SALAD Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices a quar- ter of an inch thick. Arrange in a salad- bowl and place on the ice. Chop 2 hard- boiled eggs; add 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a little chervil, 1 teaspoonful of salt, pepper, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and 8 tablespoonfuls of oil. Mix thoroughly and pour over the potatoes; stir together, and serve. 72 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER PRINCE SALAD Cut a pint of cold boiled potatoes into small squares ; add the same quantity of pickled cauliflower, minced fine. Mix 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of celery salt, 1 teaspoonf ul of made mustard, and 1 ounce of butter. Heat to the boil- ing-point; pour hot over the potatoes and cauliflower, stir lightly, and serve very cold. SALADE ANDALOUSE Chop fine 1 Spanish onion and a large cu- cumber; peel 3 tomatoes, cut into small pieces, take out the seeds, and strain the juice from them. Dress in a salad-bowl with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and let stand for an hour. Make a mound of grated bread crumbs, all white, and arrange the salad above it, following the shape. Garnish with laurel-leaves and olives. SALADE DE CRESSON Take fresh tomatoes of a bright red, re- move the seeds, pass the pulp which comes from the seeds through a sieve. Blend with SALADS 73 this liquor the yolks of 2 boiled eggs mixed with the yolk of a raw egg, and add salt, pepper, and mustard. Take the water- cresses, carefully cleaned and picked ; dress and season each separately ; then blend the two well. Do not mix until just before serving. Surround the tomatoes and cresses with lettuce - leaves. Pour a mayonnaise dressing in the centre. SALADE DES HARICOTS BLANCS Cook and strain white beans, and season with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, a tablespoon- ful of cream, a tablespoonful of French mustard. SPINACH SALAD Place a quart of spinach leaves in a salad- bowl with a Spanish onion cut up fine and a little mint. Pour over half a pint of plain salad dressing, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs. STRING -BEAN SALAD (1.) String a pint of beans; boil in salt water with an onion and a sprig of parsley. 74 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER Place the beans in a salad-bowl, sprinkle with minced salad herbs, pour over a plain dressing, and serve very cold. (2.) Cut the beans in four; place in a saucepan with cold water, and put on the lire; when the water comes to a boil the beans will be cooked ; let cool. Dress with a plain salad dressing. A little boiled onion may be added. SWEET -POTATO SALAD Boil 3 large sweet - potatoes ; cut into squares ; add 2 stalks of celery, cut small. Pour over the following dressing ; 3 table- spoonfuls of oil, 2 of vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with olives and parsley. Creams APRICOT CREAM Put 10 apricots in a pan with a gill of water and 5 ounces of sugar; cook; when done allow to cool ; beat half a pint of cream very stiff, add the apricots passed through a very fine sieve, and 4 ounces of sugar ; dis- solve half an ounce of isinglass in a little hot water, mix with the cream, stir well, and pour into a mould. BANANA CREAM Take 5 bananas, skin and pound them to a pulp together with 5 ounces of sugar ; beat half a pint of cream to a stiff froth ; add the bananas, half a glass of brandy, and the juice of two lemons ; mix well ; add half an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little hot 76 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER water, beat for a few minutes, fill the mould, and set in a cool place. CAVALIER CREAM Melt 2 ounces of chocolate in half a gill of milk; beat three-quarters of a pint of cream to a stiff froth, add 8 ounces of sugar, half a glass of maraschino, the chocolate, the juice of 2 lemons, and a box of gelatine dis- solved in half a gill of boiling water ; mix well ; pour into a mould, and stand on the ice to set. CREAM A LA CARDINAL Pick and clean a quart of raspberries ; put them in a basin, add half a pound of sugar, bruise with a wooden spoon, and pass through a fine sieve; mix the pulp with a pint of cream, a few drops of carmine, and a box of gelatine dissolved in a small quantity of boiling water ; stir well, pour into a wet mould, and stand on the ice till quite firm ; serve with a custard poured over it. EBONY CREAM Stew 2 pounds of French prunes in a little CREAMS 77 water ; pass them through a sieve ; add half an ounce of gelatine melted in a little water; a quarter of a pound of sugar ; allow to boil ; pour into a mould; when cold turn it out and serve with whipped cream. HUNGARIAN CREAM Put 1 pint of milk, half a pound of sugar, and 8 eggs into a pan ; stir over the fire a few minutes; add half an ounce of isin- glass ; take from the fire and stand in a pan of cold water; add a glass of maraschino, 4 ounces of candied cherries, and half a cup of cream ; stir till nearly set ; pour into a mould, and stand on ice. NORMANDY CREAM Put half a pint of cream into a pan to- gether with half a pint of milk, 1 box of gelatine, sugar to the taste, and a little va- nilla ; stir well ; do not allow to boil ; wet a mould, and arrange candied fruits in the bottom ; pour in some of the cream, and set aside to cool ; when firm lay in some more candied fruits and add more cream ; repeat 78 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER till the mould is quite full ; place on the ice to set. PINEAPPLE CREAM Pour a little melted raspberry jelly in the bottom of a mould and allow it to set ; soak a quarter of an ounce of gelatine in a gill of milk; stir it over the fire till thoroughly melted ; beat a pint of cream to a froth ; add a quarter of a pound of sugar and half a pound of chopped preserved pineapple ; stir in the gelatine ; when the raspberry jelly is set, pour in the cream. PRUSSIAN CREAM Beat half a pint of cream to a froth ; add sugar to taste, and the juice of 2 lemons ; beat 4 eggs ; add to them a glass of maras- chino ; mix with the cream, and beat ; stir in a little isinglass melted in water; have a mould standing in ice- water, pour a little of the jelly around it ; sprinkle with blanched pistachios and candied cherries ; when set pour in the cream, allow to set, and turn out on a dish. Cbarlottes APRICOT CHARLOTTES Butter a mould. Cut a stale loaf into fin- gers, and a round the size of the bottom of the mould ; fry them in butter and arrange them in the mould. Pare and stone a pound and a half of apricots ; boil them with one pound of sugar for half an hour. Pour into the mould, cover with slices of bread dipped in butter, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn out on a dish and sift powdered sugar over it. CHARLOTTE - RTTSSE Dip a mould in water ; line it with small sponge - cakes ; put glace cherries on the bottom ; mix a tablespoonful of sugar with a little lemon -juice and brandy. Add 2 80 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER tablespoonfuls of cream, and whisk to a stiff froth ; stir in a little gelatine dissolved in milk. Fill the mould, cover with cake, and stand in a cool place to set. CORNUCOPIAS Mix well together 3 eggs, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of flour, 2 tablespoon- fuls of water, 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder. Drop in tablespoonfuls on a pan, and bake in a moderate oven ; when done, take out, and while still hot roll in the form of a cor- nucopia, and hold in shape till cold ; fill the cornucopias with whipped cream. GOOSEBERRY CHARLOTTE Pick 2 pounds of gooseberries. Wash them well, and boil with half a pound of sugar un- til reduced to a pulp. Dissolve a little gela- tine in half a cupful of hot water; mix it with the gooseberries, and pass them through a fine sieve. Line a mould with small sponge- cakes and pour in the gooseberries. Stand aside to set. Turn out on a dish, and serve with cream. CHARLOTTES 81 ORANGE CHARTREUSE Make a quart of calfs-foot jelly, flavor it with oYange, and keep in a liquid state ; peel 4 oranges, and divide into small sections, be- ing careful not to break the inner skin ; place the oranges in a flat dish and sprinkle pow- dered sugar over them, and set aside for two hours. Pour about a teacupful of the jelly into a plain mould ; let set, and arrange upon it a layer of oranges ; pour over these some jelly ; allow it to set ; then some more oranges, and so on till the mould is quite full. When quite firm turn out on a dish, and surround the base with a border of whipped cream, and sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios. PINEAPPLE TRIFLE Make small holes in a stale sponge-cake, and pour over it as much of the syrup of a pineapple as it will absorb ; chop a few slices of the pineapple, put them around the bottom of the cake, and pour cream over the whole ; sprinkle with blanched almonds and pista- chios cut very small, and candied cherries. 82 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER PORCUPINE Pat a pound of raspberries into a pan with a pound and a half of apples, pared, cored, and sliced ; acid enough powdered sugar to sweeten it, and boil on a slow fire till the apples are soft and pulpy ; then pass through a sieve ; stir in 2 ounces of dissolved gela- tine, and pour into an oval mould; when firm turn out on a dish ; stick it over with thinly cut almonds, to imitate the quills of a porcupine ; pour over whipped cream and serve. RASPBERRY GATEAU Cut a sponge-cake into slices half an inch thick ; place them in a dish ; pour over them a pound and a half of raspberries and cur- rants stewed with half a pound of sugar; allow to stand for half an hour; pile the cake in the centre of a dish ; whip some cream to a froth ; sweeten with sugar and flavor with wine ; pour it over the cake, and send to the table. CHARLOTTES 83 STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE Line a mould with lady's -fingers; cover the bottom with a layer of jelly of some bright color. Make a filling as follows : put a pint of thick cream into a pan together with an ounce of dissolved gelatine and a pound of picked strawberries ; mix thorough- ly and pour into the mould ; cover the top with some more fingers, place on the ice to set ; serve with whipped cream. 3ellies APRICOT JELLY Place a tin of apricots in a pan with half a pound of sugar and allow them to boil; strain off the syrup ; take out the kernels and remove the skin from the apricots ; allow to cool ; add to a pint of the syrup half a box of gelatine dissolved in a little water ; boil, and clarify with the whites of eggs ; pour a little jelly into the bottom of a mould, and when it is beginning to set place over it some of the apricots ; add more jelly and apricots till the mould is full ; set in a cool place, and serve with whipped cream. CLARET JELLY Mix together half a pound of powdered sugar, 1 bottle of claret, the juice and rind JELLIES 85 of a lemon, a small pot of currant jelly, and half a box of gelatine ; boil for ten minutes ; acid a little brandy; strain, and allow to cool. CHEEKY JELLY Soak a box of gelatine in a pint and a half of water; add the juice of 4 lemons, half a pound of sugar, and the whites of 2 eggs beaten in a little water ; stir over the fire till it boils ; pass through a jelly-bag un- til clear, then add half a glass of noyau, a few drops of essence of almonds, and color with a few drops of cochineal ; pour into a mould. MUSCAT JELLY Soak 1 box of gelatine in water, add the juice of 2 lemons, half a pound of sugar, and the whites of 2 eggs beaten in a little water; place the pan on the fire and stir gently till it boils; take it up, and pass through a sieve till quite clear; stand in cold water, and when nearly set stir in a little elder-flower water and half a pound of 86 COLD DISHES FOR HOT WEATHER muscatel grapes ; pour into the mould, and stand aside to set. OEANGE JELLY Make a jelly the same as the claret jelly ; free the oranges from the pith, and cut into small pieces with a sharp knife ; when the jelly begins to set, stir in the oranges ; place on the ice to set. SANDRINOHAM JELLY Soak 1 box of gelatine in cold water for an hour ; add the juice of 3 lemons, half a pound of sugar, and the whites of eggs beaten in a little water; stir over the fire till it boils ; let it settle, and pass through a jelly -bag till quite clear; add a glass of brandy, an ounce of pistachios, and a table- spoonful of boiled rice; stir the jelly till nearly set, then pour into the mould. STEAWBEEEY JELLY Pour a little jelly into a mould, place a layer of strawberries over it, pour over some more jelly, and when set place over it another layer of strawberries ; repeat till JELLIES 87 the mould is full, the last layer being of jelly. TUTTI-FRUTTI JELLY Put half a box of gelatine to soak in half a pint of cold water ; dissolve in a pint of boiling water ; add the juice of 3 lemons ; three-quarters of a pound of sugar ; strain ; when it begins to set, put a layer of jelly on the bottom of a mould, then a layer of sliced bananas, then a layer of jelly, next a layer of sliced oranges, another layer of jelly, a layer of peaches; the last layer should be of jelly. WINE JELLY Soak half a box of gelatine in half a pint of cold water, then add a pint of boiling water, and stir till dissolved ; add the juice of 3 lemons ; strain ; add some sherry, and when nearly set stir in a quarter of a pound of grapes, skinned and stoned; pour into the mould and set on the ice to harden. Uce