^®py ^ MS^^S68t85JC8:8teyce09»?C8a^ 
 
 price 50 (rente. 
 
 ,..BY... 
 J. A. SUMMERS. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 C. E. TWOMBLY, 
 BOSTON. 
 
BH 
 
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 
 
 COPYRIGHT OFFICE. 
 
 No registration of title of this book 
 as a preliminary to copyright protec- 
 tion has been found. 
 
 MA/ 31 190/ 
 
 Forwarded to Order Division — 
 
 (6, i, 1906—2,000.) 
 
 (Date) 
 
Squabs 
 For Profit 
 
 BY 
 J. A. SUMMERS. 
 
 PRICE 50 CENTS. 
 
 Jj; «)ubU»ber, ^ 
 ^1 Soston, \j> 
 
UBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two Copies Received 
 
 APK 9 1907 
 
 Copyrlfht Entry 
 
 GLASS XKC, No. 
 
 COPY B. 
 
 A 
 
 Clor'YKIOHTEO ISO' 
 
 J. A. StTMMERS. 
 
 COHYRICiHT l'l'Ht'HASK]> 1 OOO 
 
 O. K. TwM);viuLY, 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 F^eceived from 
 Copyright Office, 
 
 ffj.W 
 

 Hn&ci 
 
 Page. 
 
 Attentiou to Squabs, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 31 
 
 Breediiifi^ Houses, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Breeders, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 14 
 
 Breeders, Care of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 Care of Breeders, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 28 
 
 Canker in Throat, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 42 
 
 Crop, Sour 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 44 
 
 Catarrh, Influenza or 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 44 
 
 Cholera, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 Dressino- S(iuabs, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 34 
 
 Diseases, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 Distemper, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 47 
 
 E.o^os, Marking 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 Enteritis, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 Fly, Run or Wire 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Food and Feeding, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 Feathers a Profit, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 Going Light, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 41 
 
 Houses, Breeding 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Incubation, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 Influenza or Catarrh, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 Lice, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 Lump in Throat, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 46 
 
 Mating, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 Marking Eggs, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 Manure a Profit, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 Purchasing, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 U) 
 
 Profit, Feathers a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 Profit, Manure a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 Profit, 70 per cent 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 37 
 
 Salt, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 Squabs, Attention to 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 Squabs, Dressing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 35 
 
 Shipping, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 36 
 
 Sour Crop, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 Throat, Canker in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 Throat, Lump in 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 46 
 
 Vomiting, . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 46 
 
 Water, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 Worms, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 45 
 
D 
 
 REFACE. 
 
 The autlior of this littU' book lias been a success- 
 ful squab raiser for a number of years, but tlie same as 
 otliers found many obstacles when commencing business. 
 I felt in need of reliable information myself, and it is 
 for ihose in the same predicament, an<l those who made 
 inquiries, that T publish this V)ook. 
 
 A, Summers, 
 
 CHALEONT, PA 
 
ENGLISH RUNTS. 
 (Keprotluced from Fulton's Book of Pigeons.) 
 
Squabs for profit- 
 
 BREEDING HOUSES. 
 
 IN commencing this work a few i)oints in reference to 
 the proper location and builrling for raising squabs, 
 miglit be worthy of mention, p.irticularly for the 
 benefit of those commencing business. The most ex- 
 pensive buildings do not necessarily bring a success in 
 the squab business, but the one I here describe I have 
 found after experimenting with many houses to be as 
 cheap as ajiy, and answering the )>urp()se just as well. 
 If on(^ lias the capital, tongued and grooved boards can 
 be used, and the heating system adapted. This has the 
 tendency to lower the death late of squabs frozen in the 
 Winter, but at the same time it appears to be detri- 
 mental to the old birds health, for if the buildings ai-e 
 heated inside, the birds are very liable to contract a 
 severe cold when coming out into the cold atmosphere 
 in the runs. T have not as yet adapted the heating sys- 
 tem, but some la;ge squab dealers have and claim bene- 
 fit from it. The following description of building I 
 lind the best for this purpose and the cheapness of the 
 same might be a great advantage in the start. 
 
The location of the breeding house is one of the 
 first to be considered. The house should be erected up 
 on a dry surface, face the South, and should be built if 
 possible next to some larger building, such as a stable 
 or barn so as not to be too much exposed to the cold 
 winds of the North and West in Winter. The most ex- 
 pensive houses are of not much account if they are not 
 built in the proper location, and kept in a good sani- 
 tary condition at all times. Particular pains mu>t be 
 taken in the construction of buildings, and care of the 
 birds and the results will be favorable and encouraging. 
 Squabs bring high prices in Winter, and as it is the 
 hardest time of the year to successfully raise them, to 
 select a good warm ])lace for the building is one of the 
 main points to be considered. 
 
 In constructing the breeding house use only good 
 lumber, Hemlock boards 1'2 inches wide, 16 feet in 
 length and an inch in thickness 1 find the best for mak- 
 ing pigeon houses, cheaper lumber can of course be 
 used for the roof, as felt roofing should go over it. 
 Hemlock scantling 2x4 should be used in making th^ 
 frame work. 
 
 The building should be 82 feet in length, 10 feet 
 in width, 8 feet high in front and 7 feet high in the 
 rear. The roof can be made of hemlock boards 1 inch 
 thick, tongued and grooved, 1 foot wide over which 
 tack three ply felt roofing. This felt lasts a great while, 
 but the two ply may only last a season or two, so it 
 will be more economical in the end to purchase the for- 
 mer. To preserve the roof a coat of tar and sand or 
 
9 
 
 slag cement can be applied over tl»e felt every Spring 
 and Fall at least. 
 
 Never use slate for roofing breeding houses, for in 
 Winter it gets exceeding cold, and in Summer exti'eme- 
 ly hot, endangering the i'.ves of the birds building in 
 the higher nests. A good plan is to have a double roof, 
 i. e. have an inner one built a few inches below the out- 
 er, leaving an opening at the ends to allow a draught to 
 pass through in Summer. 'J'his will keej) out a great 
 amount of heat from the sun's rays. Have several 
 transoms near the roof, at the ends of the house, M'hich 
 should be left ojumi in Summer. Four windows 2 x ;> 
 feet should be put in tiie front, and one of the same size 
 at the East end, all to be midway between the roof and 
 the flooi-, thereby admitting plenty of sunlight, of which 
 the birds are exceedingly fond. Have the windows 
 put in so they can be slid l)ack <>ii the inside for the 
 hot weather, 'i'he house should be divided into four 
 compartments, using lath or wire netting for making 
 the partitions. 
 
 The interior of the building must have boxes <»r 
 nests on all sides, which should be a foot square with a 
 strip three inches wide nailed in the front to prevent 
 the squabs from falling out. Never have the nests 
 made less than 1 foot in height for if any lower, the 
 birds nesting in the higher ones Avill be continually 
 picking at the heads of those in the row underneath, 
 therefore make them ])letity high and avoid consider- 
 able disturbance. If birds nesting side by side are 
 constantlv tightinii; from the front of the nests, nail a 
 
10 
 
 small board outside and between the nest so they can- 
 not see one another. Allow two nests for each pair 
 of birds, for good breeders will have built a new nest 
 and of times have eggs again, before the squabs in their 
 other nest have attained marketable size. The use of 
 nest pans I do not fancy and think it a waste of money, 
 for most of them are entirely too small, and the squabs 
 are liable to tumble out and perish, but if the proper 
 size which is 10 inches at least across the top and 3 to 4 
 inches deep can be had, at a reasonable outlay, they 
 may prove an advantage. A building of this size 
 will comfortably house 100 pair of birds; and of course 
 can be made any desired length at will. 
 
 The floor sliould be made of the best hard lumber, 
 yellow pine boards 1 inch in thickness being prefer- 
 able. They should be put close together so no draught 
 or dampness can get up between the cracks. Never 
 make cement or concrete floors for pigeon houses as 
 they are entirely too cold in Winter and cause more or 
 less dampness to arise. I>oard floors I find the health- 
 iest and easiest to clean, particularly if coarse pine saw- 
 dust is strewn upon it. This makes cleaning easy, for 
 what is more detestable than to undertake to clean a 
 pigeon house, when the droppings have adhered to the 
 bare boards and become as hard as cement. One tenth 
 of the labor at cleaning is saved by using saw-dust, 
 which is also the best absorbent known for this pur- 
 pose. 
 
 As rats are a great annoyance and are ver}^ detri- 
 mental to tlio success of the squ:il) raiser to a certain 
 
n 
 
 extent, they sliould never l)e allowed any means in 
 which to enter the breeding house. A good plan is to 
 have the house raised 6 inches fi'oni the grouiid and 
 board up all around with the exception of a small open- 
 ing in one end large enough to allow the admittance of 
 the cat. Since adopting this plan the author has not 
 once been troubled with these destinctive creatures. 
 Mice do not do any particular harm, but they too should 
 be kept from the loft as they will annoy the birds in 
 many ways. 
 
RUN OR WIRE FLY. 
 
 THE run or fly is built in the front of the breeding 
 house and for the above described building 
 should be '25 feet in length, and as high as the 
 building. The birds require plenty of room in which 
 to exercise themselves and the larger the better. For 
 this purpose I find the 1 inch mesh wire netting the 
 most suitable, as this size will not admit the pesky spar- 
 row, which otherwise would gain entrance into the 
 building and consume large quantities of feed. 
 
 In making the run use good cedar i>osts and 2xo 
 hemlock scantling. Plant the posts dee]) into the 
 o-round ( alter coating with tar to ])revent premature 
 rottino- ) for if planted too shallow they will be heaved 
 up more and more each Winter by the frost and after a 
 few Winters have passed, your run wmU have the ap- 
 pearance of ocean waves. After the frame- work has 
 been completed, nail aboard 1 foot wide around the 
 bottom, then apply the netting all around ?nd over the 
 top. 
 
 The run to correspond with the house must of 
 course be divided into four compartments, gates being 
 made at the lower end to get into each compartment. 
 
13 
 
 Several perches running from side to side are placed 
 in tbe run for the birds to light upon. On the ground 
 put a layer of gravel or coarse sand to the depth of sev- 
 eral inches, which is very essential to the health of the 
 birds, and should be loosened up occasionally This 
 should be taken out every few months and replaced 
 with a fresh supply. 
 
 If a part of a barn or any warm building is un- 
 occupied and will answer the purpose of a pigeon loft, 
 of course the expense of erecting a building expressly 
 is not necessary, but one thing is necesaary if they are 
 to thrive and do their best, they must in some way 
 have access to the ground. One can make a run out- 
 ride ofsuch a place and have almost as good a breeding 
 house as the one above described. 
 
 Si 
 
 r^ 
 
 *<6^ 
 
BREEDERS. 
 
 IX my experience I find the Homer i. e. the working 
 Homer the best alround bird for breeding squabs 
 
 for market. The squabs they produce are always 
 plump, fat, and have a nice light color. 
 
 Common pigeons are generally good at breeding? 
 especially if given their freedom, l)ut when housed up 
 do not thrive so well as the Homers. A fact I niight 
 mention at this time, is that the diseases such as Going 
 Light and Canker, attack the common variety and 
 Duchesse sooner than the Homers, according to ray ex- 
 perience, when the former were housed up. Many 
 starting in this business buy large numbers of the com- 
 inon birds, as they are so much cheaper in price, but in 
 the long run. Homers will be- found the cheapest by far. 
 Their squabs are usually larger >nd bring higher prices, 
 and I haVe raised them to weigh 14 ounces each, while 
 common ones seldom weigh over 10 ounces each. By 
 crossing the Homers wuth the common variety a large 
 squab is also often produced. Take a Homer cock, and 
 a large common hen ( light color preferred ) for this 
 purpose. Never allow small birds room in your lofts or 
 birds which have dark S(iuabs, and there will be fewer 
 second class squabs when shipping to market. 
 
15 
 
 Some fanciers claim a good protit by raising pure 
 white pigeons exclusivel3\ They are sold to Taxider- 
 mists in large cities, who stuff them and in turn sell 
 them for funeral purposes. Common birds can be used 
 for this, and the smaller the variety the better. 
 
 The Duchesse is a fair breeder, producing squabs 
 nice in size, color, etc. but in ni}^ estimation are not so 
 active as Homers. They are I think more delicate and 
 more subject to disease than other varieties, but of 
 course all fanciers have different views on this subject. 
 If they are to be tried as breeders, l)uy the very best var- 
 iety, the largest birds, as there arc quite a number of 
 different kinds of Duchesse, and some almost. as w^orth- 
 less as common pigeons. 
 
 Runts pratically belong to the fancy variety and 
 are the largest birds known. Their squabs are exceed- 
 ino;ly larire too, but I would not advise their use in this 
 industry on account of their first cost, unless one could 
 be fortunate enough to buy a lot cheap of fanciers, ones 
 which are little off in style, color, etc. in the fancy, 
 they of course will come of good advantage, and by 
 saving a squab or two occasionally will in time make a 
 a loft of fine large stock. Chances of purchasing these 
 birds cheap however are rare. Hunts however if pure 
 blood ai'c poor breeders as a rule and a better bird will 
 be found in one of its crosses. For instance, the Hunt 
 Homer cross is conceded to be the best. 
 
PURCHASING. 
 
 IN purchasing stock, always go to parties making a 
 special Imsiness of breeding pigeons alone, their 
 
 addresses can be found in all Fanciers' papers in 
 which there are numerous advertisements. Many have 
 been unsuccessful in the S(iuab business, become dis- 
 couraged and disgusted simply because their first lot of 
 birds were not as represented. Some dealers will try 
 and pan off on the inexperienced, old worn out bird:* 
 only suitable for shooting matches, but the purchaser 
 will soon learn the art m procuring good birds after in 
 business a short time. The main secret in buying 
 stock is to be sure and get large young liird in age from 
 1 to 2 years, of parties having good reputations. 
 
 Never keep too many old birds in stock, in fact 
 none is better. Sell them off if possible, as free board- 
 ers are of no use. What I mean by old birds are the 
 ones which have been worked hard, have lost their 
 ambition and vigor and seldom have squabs. Some as 
 far as their age is concerned are excellent breeders yet 
 at the age ot 7 or S years, in fact I once saw a Homer 
 cock whose owner claimed was 1<> years old, lively as a 
 two vear old and a good breeder. 
 
An excellent plan to be sure of having young birds 
 is to have an extra pen for young ones alone . and when 
 you notice a fine large pair of squabs in Summer, when 
 prices are low, let them fly in this loft. At 6 months 
 of age they will usually mate up, and if you are sure 
 they are mated to stay, put them to work in breeding 
 house. Sometimes they undertake this step when but 
 4 months old, but Homers to do their best and to be 
 strong and healthy in after years should not be allowed 
 to mate until the age above mentioned. Many have 
 adopted this plan, and by the time Summer, is over 
 their stock is largely increased with good young birds 
 for Winter breeding and at little extra expense. 
 
MATING. 
 
 ALWAYS see that the birds are well mated, and if 
 purchased of good reliable fanciers, they will be 
 mated when sent you. Never allow an odd cock 
 the privilege of flying loose amongst the others as he 
 will invaribly do more harm by lighting with them and 
 also by killing more young squabs than many diseases 
 will. It is a good plan to have a special box for the 
 purpose of mating, with a partition in the centre; place 
 the cock in one side, the hen in the other and after a 
 few days draw out the partition etc. To distinguish 
 the sex is often a hard task for many with experience, 
 but by closely watching the birds one will readily ob- 
 serve that the cock does considerably more cooing and 
 has generally more life about him than the hen, and in 
 flirting with the hen often turns around several times 
 a hen seldom turns more than half way around. The 
 hen is usually smaller than the cock and has somewhat 
 a different shaped head. To tell the sex without see- 
 ing their actions in the loft is however not an easy task, 
 and oftimes one purchases a bird supposed to be a hen 
 and when at home flnds it to be a cock. Mistakes are 
 often made in this way. The only true way to dis- 
 
19 
 
 tinguished the sex (and one which stands to reason) is 
 to catch the bird and liold it in one hand, and with the 
 index finger of tlie other hand pass it gently between 
 the vent bones. You will soon notice in so doing that 
 the bones of the hen are much farther apart than those 
 of the cock and after a little pratice one can soon learn 
 to tell the sex accurately and make very few mistakes 
 if any at all . This I have found the best and only 
 common sense way of distinguishing the sex, the vent 
 bones of the hen gradually becoming farther apart by 
 laying eggs. Oftimes the sex of squabs can be told in 
 this way also. 
 
 When one bird is constantly chasing another all 
 around the building and outside as well, the last one is 
 the cock and the former his mate and that they are 
 ready to build a nest will be proven in a short time 
 afterwards. The cock will continue to drive the hen 
 in this way for several days until their nest is 
 finished and eggs are laid. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 r 
 
 ^. 
 
FOOD AND FEEDING. 
 
 nANY fanciers prefer feeding their birds by the 
 hand i. e. throwing out their feed upon the 
 ground or loft floor, in such quantities that 
 will be eaten up at one meal. I differ with them in 
 this respect for in this way they eat too hurriedly 
 and swallow more or less dirt with their food. The 
 most customary at the present time and the best 
 possible way of feeding is with hoppers or trays. 
 Make them 10 or 12 feet in length, about 6 inches 
 wide, and a good plan is to have a top made. On 
 the sides have strips so nailed that the birds cannot 
 get into the trough and yet can get their heads 
 through and eat. In this way the troughs or hoppers 
 are always clean. Give at each meal a little more feed 
 than will be eaten up clean, the extra amount given 
 will be eaten up by those birds on the nest at the time 
 of feeding, as some birds do not leave their nests and 
 otherwise would go hungry until their next meal. 
 Birds that are breeding should be fed but twice a day, 
 early in the morning and about 4 o'clock in the after- 
 noon. They will then have ample time to feed their 
 young before dark. As far as can be done allow only 
 
21 
 
 one person to do the feeding and the birds will soon 
 become accustomed to their entering the loft and grow 
 quite tame, when if different ones feed them they will 
 be frightened at each feeding, wild birds will not breed 
 as fi-eely as tame ones and less accidents will happen, 
 such as broken legs, chilled young etc. 
 
 When birds have their freedom they fly around 
 from place to place and gather for their living what 
 suits their tastes. In the country they frequent newly 
 harvested grain-fields, and eat all manner of new 
 grains, which would cause sickness if they were given 
 it when housed up. This no doubt is from the fact 
 that wiien at liberty they have better exercise. Birds 
 in confinement have no choice but are compelled to 
 thrive upon the food put before them. Good food, 
 good stock; poor food, failure. The best food is the 
 cheapest by far. All grains fed should be well dried, 
 as much loss and disease has been endangered from the 
 use of green grain. The latter produces diarrhoea and 
 the birds emaciate until death relieves them. 
 
 Birds require a variety of food same as persons, 
 and ones fed upon the same kind of food for any length 
 of time will not thrive and soon become lazy and un- 
 profitable for the squab-raiser. A large variety of food 
 IS not at all necessary but to change it often is essen- 
 tial to their health. 
 
 Red wheat (never use white) is, taking it the 
 whole year around, about the best food, although the 
 author often gains excellent results from the use of 
 good screenings. With this besides the wheat it con- 
 tains, the birds get tares, different other seeds etc., but 
 
one objection to the use of screenings and one which 
 causes the deatli of many birds is the rye which it con- 
 tains. Rye is as poison to pigeons and in fact poultry 
 also. If they should eat the smallest quantity diarrhoea 
 will set in, and if the cause of birds being scoured is 
 not known and the food changed at once the}' die in a 
 comparatively short time. I once lost nearly a whole 
 flock of birds in this way before discovering the real 
 cause, but soon as I changed their food giving wheat in- 
 stead, the remainder of my flock entirely recovered. 
 After I examined the screenings I had been feeding I 
 found some rye, but not in such very large quantities 
 either, so this is proof that it requires but a small 
 amount to cause the death of birds even if healthy. 
 
 Corn is the next best article of food. It should be 
 given to them cracked and very dry. Never feed 
 whole corn to birds that are breeding as it is as hard 
 bullets in the tender crops of the little squeakers. 
 Cracked corn is preferred and should be purchased in 
 only small lots and often, for it is a great absorbent of 
 moisture and soon becomes mouldy and unfit for use as 
 food. Using old stale cracked corn is one of the 
 causes of sour crop in birds. It should not be cracked 
 too fine and should never be fed in connection with 
 wheat or peas. If a change in food is thought necess- 
 ary always wait until the morning meal then their crops 
 are entirely empty and the change will be less liable to 
 cause the birds illness. It is much better to feed 
 screenings or wheat one meal, buckwheat, millers wheat 
 one meal, screenings or cracked corn the next etc., than 
 to give a mixture all at once. Bear in mind feed only 
 
23 
 
 the red wheat and this should be of the very best qual- 
 ity. Scorched wheat which is so often purchased of 
 dealers who claim it grand food for poultry, and which 
 IS too often used by the fanciers on account of its cheap- 
 ness is not tit for food, for its nutriment value is not 
 worth speaking of. This wheat sometimes, but very 
 seldom, comes from grain elevator fires, and the best is 
 taken out and dried, after which it is sold for poultry. 
 The majority I find after investigation is nothing more 
 nor less than wheat w^hich has been stored away for a 
 considerable length of time, and has become mouldy. 
 This then is put through a process, by which the grains 
 are somewhat charred, evidently to lessen the smell 
 of the mould. It is then claimed to come from eleva- 
 tor fires. If all the burnt wheat had come from these 
 fires not an elevator would be standing The secret of 
 this process w^a> given the author by an intimate friend, 
 a wealthy miller. One of the most nutritious foods for 
 pigeons is oats. It contains a great percentage of 
 starch and they are valuable on account of the great 
 amount of mineral material they contain. The proteine 
 and fats are however in smaller quantities, but on the 
 whole oats will be found, a very valuable food. The 
 only objection to its use is that of the extremely sharp 
 hulls. The only safe way to feed oats is the hulled 
 i. e. with the outer shell removed. Rolled oats answers 
 the same purpose, but for the squab raising business 
 where the expense must be kept down as far as possible, 
 it will be found too dear to feed regularly, but will be a 
 relish very highly appreciated. 
 
24 
 
 Millet especially the German millet is another val- 
 uable article of food but on account of its stimulating 
 qualities, a little goes a great way. Feed it occassional- 
 ly mixed with wheat as a relish. Caraway and canary 
 seeds can also be given in the same way. Sunflower 
 seed if hulled makes an article of food very valuable 
 during the moulting season, and in the dead of Win- 
 ter. It resembles Hemp seed.which is also highly con- 
 centrated, heatening and fat forming. It has been de- 
 cided that the black seed is far superior to the Russian, 
 These seeds put an elegant gloss to the plumage, and 
 will be found very beneficial in assuming the proper 
 condition of the feathers of birds for the shows. A 
 fine lustre will be established with only a few fed. 
 A new variety of corn has recently been grown here 
 which will grow into favor with breeders. It has a 
 small kernel the size of a small pea. It is called the 
 Kafiir Corn, has all the qualities of the Indian Corn 
 and will answer the same purpose. It can be swallow- 
 ed very easily by the smallest of birds, and may be fed 
 on the same principle as the large corn. 
 
 The food should be varied according to the seasons 
 for instance in Winter when the nights are cold, and 
 the birds quiet, a required amount of heat must be 
 supplied. It is then the time to feed corn. Always 
 feed it at night, and cut the amount down to mere noth- 
 ing during the Summer months. Many fanciers resort 
 to nothing but corn for their birds on account of its 
 cheapness and there are many birds raised upon noth- 
 ing but corn, but these aie not hardy. 
 
25 
 
 An occasional cupful of buckwheat and henipseed 
 mixed is a luxury for the pigeons, but the latter should 
 be fed very sparingly as it is entirely too rich and fat- 
 tening for healthy birds, but is an excellent article to 
 always have on hand for sick or run down birds, and 
 very nourishing food for those suffering from the disease 
 known as Going Light. 
 
 Canadian peas are relished by the birds and are 
 also very nourishingbut for this industry, in which ex- 
 penses must be kept down as much as possible. Peas 
 will be dear as the price is very high. Scraps from 
 the table, such as pieces of bread, cakes, etc , will 
 be eaten with relish. Sometimes stale bread can be 
 purchased at the bakeries at a very small figure, but 
 it must not be at all mouldy. Soak it first in warm 
 Avater before feeding and then watch how greedily they 
 devour it. 
 
 Green food is not as necessary for pigeons as for 
 poultry, but an occasional bunch of salad is good and 
 also chick weed if the latter can be found. Ground 
 oyster shells must be before them at all times, as it 
 aids in the formation of shells. Lime they must have 
 in some form, and besides oyster shells they may be 
 given plaster from old buildings or from old mortar 
 beds. 
 
26 
 
 WATER. 
 
 Pigeons require a greater amount of water than 
 poultry, and good fresh water in suitable fountains 
 should always be kept before them. Excellent recep- 
 tacles for this purpose can be made from a molasses 
 barrel by sawing the top and bottom off above the 
 second hoop. Two nice tubs four or six inches deep 
 will then have been made, which should be filled full 
 with water. Scrub these tubs outevery morning before 
 giving fresh water, especially in Summer and when the 
 temperature rises from 85 to 100 degrees the water 
 must be changed often and llie tubs scalded out oc- 
 casionally. 
 
 Always allow your birds to bathe freely when 
 they wish, in Winter as well as in Summer, they in this 
 way rid themselves of much dirt and sometimes lice. 
 After all have finished their bath throw away the water 
 and give them a fresh supply. Never allow the birds 
 to drink of the water after bathing in it. 
 
 SALT. 
 
 Salt is as essential to pigeons as bread is to man- 
 kind. Care must be taken however in giving it them 
 for birds not accustomed to it will often eat entirely too 
 much at one time and die from the effects. Give only 
 a small quantity at first to such birds, and gradually in- 
 crease the amount day after day until tliey become used 
 
27 
 
 to it when it can then be given them in hoppers and 
 should be before them at all times. I always use the 
 coarse or ground salt (^ same as used for cattle) in pre- 
 ference to rock salt and never experienced bad results 
 as birds after becoming accustomed to it will never 
 eat too much. 
 
 Birds are exceedingly fond of codfish and a small 
 piece tacked up against the side of their lofts will be 
 highly appreciated by them. I have heard of parties 
 putting this fish in boxes outside their barns and 
 strange birds would come in large numbers and make 
 their abode there. 
 
 Salt Cat is recommended by some fanciers to pro- 
 mote the best health in pigeons, and given to breeders 
 will be found a good tonic and preventative of disease 
 to a certain extent. It is made by taking coarse sand 
 two pecks, slacked lime one peck, salt one pint, ground 
 oyster shells one-half peck, crushed cumin and caraway 
 seeds each one-half pound, mix well. Then take Sul- 
 phate of Iron one-fourth pound. Sulphuric Acid one-half 
 ounce and dissolve in two quarts of water. It will take 
 about two quarts of water to mix the above ingredients 
 and to each quart add several tablespoonfuls of this 
 mixture. Lay away to dry when it can be readily 
 broken up in fine pieces and given the birds in a corner 
 of the feed hopper. 
 
CARE OF BREEDERS. 
 
 YOUK best birds re<(uire your best attention. See 
 that they are well mated and if one should die, at 
 once replace it with one of the same sex. Many 
 make great mistakes by crow<lirig their birds in the 
 lofts. Birds to do their best must have plenty of room, 
 and fanciers putting too many in one com})artment find 
 in the end they do so to their own sorrow. Twenty- 
 five pair in each pen is sufficient if partitions are arrang- 
 -ed so that only eight or ten pairs are kept together the 
 results will be better. 
 
 Diseases such as Canker, Going Light, etc. are sure 
 to arise in overcrowded lofts. Heating the breeding 
 house in Winter is not at all necessary as good healthy 
 l)irds arc not affected by the cold weather. Ones 
 which are accustomed to warm compartments invaria- 
 bly catch cold more readily when flying out in the cold 
 run where a sudden change is met, than those without 
 lieat. The suu's rays, if the building is in the proper 
 location furnishes all the heat necessary. The lofts 
 should be well ventilated in Winter same as Summer 
 but alwavs avoid drau<»:hls in cold weather. 
 
29 
 
 During the moulting period extra pains must be 
 taken to keep the birds in a healthy condition foi- at 
 this time they are more sensitive to diseases than at 
 other times. Never work them too hard at this period 
 and if given a rest by seperating the sexes for a month 
 or so then returning them to their lofts they will be 
 more vigorous and breed surprisingly afterwards. A 
 small supply of hemp seed is good at this time given in 
 connection with wheat, etc. and green food is very bene- 
 ficial also. Very often young birds when moulting 
 droop, waste away and die. This is called Distemper 
 and if no diarrhoea exists, can often be cured by pull- 
 ing out with one sharp jerk all the tail feathers. Some 
 might think this cruel, but I think they are not so sen- 
 sitive in this respect at this period. This is practiced 
 among all fanciers. 
 
 Fanciers who make it a business to breed nothing 
 but the fancy varieties of pigeons will find it to their 
 advantage to seperate the cocks from the hens during 
 the Winter months. This will give the hens a rest and 
 their breeding qualities better for the next seuson. 
 Put the cocks in pens by themselves, and tlie hens like- 
 wise in one by themselves, but have solid partitions so 
 they cannot see each other all the time for if otherwise 
 they would most likely keep up their relations and 
 cause both cock and hen to worry and flutter all the 
 time trying to get together. If new pairs are to be 
 used in breeding the next season, it will become a task 
 for the owner for they will invariably mate up again 
 with the old mates. 
 
30 
 MARKING EGGS. 
 
 The hen will lay but two eggs, generally a day or 
 two apart. 1 find it a great advantage to keep a close 
 watch on all the boxes and mark the date on the front 
 of each box when the eggs were laid. By so doing one 
 can almost tell to a day when they will hatch, and an- 
 other advantage, can readily tell if they will hatch or 
 not. After the birds have been setting upon the eggs, 
 say for three or four days take the eggs gently out of 
 the nest and hold them up towards the sunlight or win- 
 dow and as the shells are very thin the eggs are almost 
 transparent, and infertile eggs you will observe on one 
 side a number of veins all coming together at one point 
 in the centre, the whole resembling in appearance, a 
 spider. If after five or six days these veins do not 
 make their appearance the eggs will not hatch and 
 might as well be thrown out for what use would there 
 be in having birds setting upon them their full time if 
 one knows they will amount to nothing. Throw them 
 away and in a week or so they will have laid others 
 If only one egg is hatchable it may be taken out and 
 put in another similar nest where only one will hatch 
 and where the eggs were laid about the same time. 
 One will readily see that this plan is saving and adds a 
 little more profit, but never make birds hatch more 
 than nature requires them; two eggs. If three or four 
 ^ggs are hatched by the same birds, only two squabs 
 will amount to anything probably as is often the case 
 none are first class, but puny and un^alable. 
 
31 
 
 The question often arises: Why are there more 
 cock pigeons than hens? The author thinks that as 
 the cock bird is most always hatched first, the parent 
 birds show partiality towards him in the wa}' of atten- 
 tion and feed him more, and in this way neglect the 
 hen. Oftimes the hen squab from this neglect becomes 
 poorly nourished and too often dies. Another reason 
 might be that the hen has not so strong a constitution 
 as the cock, and more susceptible to malignant diseases, 
 and one peculiar to their sex. 
 
 INCUBATION. 
 
 . The cock takes up nearly as much time in setting 
 upon the eggs as the hen does, both taking part. The 
 cock is a relief for the hen and sets from about ten 
 o'clock in the morning till four o'clock in the afternoon* 
 sometimes in between times also. It usually takes 
 eighteen days for eggs to hatch and as one is laid a day 
 or so before the other, one will hatch before the other, 
 the first hatched being the cock. 
 
 ATTENTION TO SQUABS. 
 
 Much can be done in the way of attending squabs 
 which many neglect doing and a few points might be 
 of interest to those who have not had much experience. 
 Squabs when young receive proper attention from the 
 parent birds but the fancier often increases his profit 
 to some extent by using his birds to their best advan- 
 tage i. e. making them do all that nature requires of 
 
3-2 
 
 them. Eiiclj pair of birJs are capable ot rearing but 
 one pair oi s<juabs at a time, but as often only one egg 
 hatches in a certain nest look through your loft and 
 usually you will find another nest with but one hatched 
 also. If the squabs are of about the same age, one of 
 them can be put in with the other and the one pair of 
 birds will have to rear them both. This can be done 
 until the squabs are quite large and tiie old birds will 
 not know the difference thinking both their own. 
 Again if both eggs do hatch and one squab grows and 
 thrives better than the other (which is too often the 
 case as parent birds show partiality towards the male 
 squab and feed it more) take the poorly nourished one 
 away and do as above mentioned, and nine times out of 
 ten it will grow surprising!}'. 
 
 LICE. 
 
 Lice have caused the death of many valuable birds 
 and great numbers of squabs are annually being tor- 
 mented to death by these pests. Whitewashing and the 
 use of kerosene oil are of little or no value to prevent 
 lice from forming. The best way of prevention is to 
 allow the birds nothing but tobacco stems or ribs with 
 which to build their nest always having a good supply 
 of strong fresh ones before them and lice will be scarce. 
 If they should appear in spite of every precaution, as 
 they sometimes do especially when the stems have lost 
 their strength sprinkle a little crude carbolic acid 
 around in the nests. This sometimes rids them and is 
 an excelh^nt disinfectant if nothinor else. The main 
 
3.5 
 
 way to prevent lice from forming is to keep the breed- 
 ing houses and nest as clear, as possible. Nests when 
 occupied by squabs soon become very offensive and un- 
 healthy from accumulation of the soft excrement, and 
 is sure to breed lice. By removing the nests every 
 week or so, and replacing with fresh stems makes a bet- 
 ter appearance and is certainly much healthier for the 
 squabs, allowing them to grow and thrive well. Squab 
 raisers must pay strict attention in every way to keep 
 their breeding houses in a good sanitary condition if 
 they wish to become successful. Occasionlly throwing 
 a handful of slacked lime in each nestis another ex- 
 cellent way ot pervention but never put it upon the 
 floor as 1 once heard of a fancier doing, he had it to the 
 depth of an inch or so all around the floor of his loft 
 and in consequence lost all his flock of costly birds from 
 strangulation by du-st whicli the birds raised when fly- 
 ing about. Clean the houses well at least once a week 
 especially in Summer and by following the above pre- 
 cautions lice will be of no consideration whatever. 
 
DRESSING SQUABS. 
 
 SQUABS fit for market purposes should not be un- 
 der four weeks old and it often i)ays the raiser 
 better if he will allow them to get a week older 
 for they will fill out considerably more in that much ex- 
 tra time. Squabs are generally killed too soon, that is 
 before they have attained their full growth. Never kill 
 them when their hind part is yet soft as many do but 
 wait until it hardens even if they fly out of the nest a 
 week or so, then the pin feathers will have attained a 
 good length and renders it less tedious to pick; and the 
 breast of the squab is filled out properly. 
 
 Go through your breeding houses the afternoon 
 of the day previous to the day you intend shipping and 
 collect the squabs you think suitable and place them in 
 boxes until the following morning then their crops 
 will be entirely empty and you thereby save much la- 
 bor and time in extracting the grain, although this can 
 be done after a little practice in a very short time. 
 Never ship squabs to market with full crops for by the 
 time they reach there the food which they contain will 
 cause them to look dark and poorer prices will be 
 realized. 
 
85 
 
 When ready to kill, ufter having baskets for feath- 
 ers, buckets, etc. handy by your side, take a squab in 
 the left hand and hold it up by the wings and feet so as 
 to allow all the blood to enter the head, then with a 
 very sharp bladed knife make a deep incision into the 
 jugular veins, never sticking them in the upper part of 
 the mouth as some do, as they do not bleed so well. 
 Commence picking as soon as the blood is done flowing 
 whether the bird is dead or not, as the feathers are 
 more easily pulled than after the squab has gotten cold. 
 Some might think this is cruel but I think they are in- 
 sensible of pain after sticking and bleeding. Pull the 
 tail and wing feathers out first and then the others being 
 very careful not to tear the skin on the breasts and near 
 the head. This the best pickers will do at times, but 
 after a little practice anyone will become accustomed 
 to picking and will tear but few and do the feathering 
 very quickly, the author having picked as high as seven 
 pairs in an hour but would not like to undertake to 
 work a whole day at that rate. Five pairs an hour is 
 good enough time at picking. Have a bucketful of cold 
 water (in which there has been thrown a good handful 
 of fine salt) nearby and immediately after picking throw 
 the squabs into the water. It brings out the animal 
 heat and the salt improves the color of the skin, remov- 
 ing the greater part of darkness often seen in squabs 
 that have been improperly stuck and that did not bleed 
 freely. Squabs naturally dark are greatly improved 
 also in this way. Wash the dirt off their feet, the 
 blood out of their mouths, fold back their wings, tie up 
 
:;6 
 
 ill pairs birds of the same size and fatness and hang up 
 till shipping time. 
 
 SHIPPING. 
 
 Another important part in this business is to find 
 the best purchasers for your stock. Many ship their 
 whole supply to game dealers in New York City and 
 other large cities who pay them very fair prices, but 
 what is better if residing near a city is to have your 
 own private customers, who often if they are sure you 
 can supplj^ them regularly the whole year around will 
 pay high prices. Get the best parties, always, in pri- 
 vate families as well as in hotels and resturants and de- 
 liver them yourself. If you are not in close proximity 
 with a large city and are compelled to ship them away 
 always get a good game dealer to take your squabs as 
 they always pay better prices than commission men* 
 The reason for this is that the former retail their goods 
 to the hotels, etc. while the latter only wholesales. 
 
 When ready to ship pack the squabs in layers in a 
 box of the proper size for the quantity of birds you wish 
 to ship and pack with their breast down, keeping the 
 best birds for the top of the box. In Summer always 
 ])ut ice in the box or boxes. Crack it in small pieces 
 about the size of a walnut and put in the bottom of the 
 box several inches of it, then pack your squabs, and 
 after all are in, put several inches of the ice on top of 
 all. Fill in the remainder of the box with nice white 
 l)aper. In Winter pack the same only the ice is not 
 necessary. In shipping never send by freight, always 
 Uy express as this is tlie quickest way of getting your 
 
goods to their destination and the companies are respon- 
 sible for all damages inflicted. 
 
 FEATHERS A PROFIT. 
 
 Everything must be taken into consideration in 
 this industry even down to selling featliers and manure. 
 Each will add something to the other proHts. Where 
 large numbers of squabs are killed weekly the feathers 
 will accumulate in great quantities. Save all excepting 
 the wing and tail feathers and after baking in an oven 
 several times can then be sold. Many claim them al- 
 most equal to goose feathers. 
 
 MANURE A PROFIT. 
 
 Have barrels near the building expressly for the 
 manure and by cleaning the floor each week also throw- 
 ing in all stems and excrement from the unoccupied 
 nests, barrels will be collected. Farmers during corn 
 phmting time will be only too glad to buy it and will 
 pay excellent prices for they claim it to be the best of 
 fertilizers. 
 
 70 PER CENT PROFIT. 
 
 The squab raising industry without doubt pays a 
 larger percentage of profit on the capital invested than 
 many kinds of business at the present time, but much 
 depending upon the care and management of course. 
 Take for instance 500 pairs of birds i. e. good breeding 
 ones. The average cost of feeding one pair each week 
 is about 1 1-2 cents. Good breeders will have at least 
 
38 
 
 8 pairs of squabs per year and some average more. 
 Taking il at the low average of 8 pairs per year, 500 
 pairs of birds would have 4000 pair of squabs. Sup- 
 posing 500 pairs of these would die which most always 
 happens to a certain extent and at the close of the year 
 3500 pairs of squabs will have been sold. At an aver- 
 age price of 35 cents per pair for squabs the whole 
 year around the receipts would amount to $12'25.00 and 
 subtracting the cost of feeding your birds which would 
 be about $890.00 (at the above rate per week) your 
 profit would amount to $835.00 or about 70 percent 
 figuring in the profit on manure, etc. What better em- 
 ployment can anyone find where the profit is so large, 
 but no one can expect to succeed in this business (the 
 same as in any other) unless he i)uts his mind down to 
 it and pays all attention possible. Every one can learn 
 many different things from experience, but as the fore- 
 going pages are written from years of pratical experi- 
 ence, by so following, success is found to reign supreme. 
 The following pages on the Diseases of the Pigeon Avill 
 be found valuable to every breeder, and the prescriptions 
 given therein for the various ailments are altogether 
 harmless and have been used by the author with the 
 very best results. Above all do not place too much 
 confidence in advertised nostrums, as many of the pro- 
 prietors have never had any experience whatever in 
 the pigeon business. 
 
DISEASES. 
 
 IT is hardly necessary for the aullior to enter into de- 
 tail with every disease to which the pigeon family 
 may fail heir, but I will treat only upon the most 
 common and dangerous diseases with which the squab 
 raiser must contend. A few hints as to the care and 
 feeding of sick birds might also be beneficial. Any- 
 one can readily notice when a bird is not well, they are 
 apparently lazy, droopy, generally off their feed, and in 
 other words all out of sorts, but to know the true na- 
 ture of the disease and to have the proper remedies at 
 hand is one reason I treat on the diseases for it takes 
 an important part in this business. When birds are ill 
 the selection of proper food is of main importance, 
 hemp, canary seed or wheat in the right proportions 
 should be placed before it, to tempt it to eat although 
 in most diseases owing to a fever they prefer drink. 
 In such a. case use oat meal water i. e. water in which 
 several handfuls of the meal has been soaked. Keep 
 those sick in a seperate pen or box and give them all 
 attention possible. 
 
 Diseases as a general rule originate in some negli- 
 gence on the part of the fancier feeding poor grain, im- 
 pure water or want of cleanliness. 
 
41 
 
 GOING LIGHT. 
 
 The most troublesome and dangerous disease to 
 which breeding birds are subject is Going Light or in 
 other terms consumption. It is a tubercular disease 
 and very contagious, the disease germ-s being taken in 
 food or water. It is often caused by a sudden chill, 
 taking cold or from some irritating food or water. The 
 disease generally commences with diarrhoea or infla- 
 mation of the bowels which sooner or later reaches the 
 lungs. The birds la}^ around with ruffled feathers and 
 have a very miserable appearance. The discharges are 
 very slimy and frequent, and if proper attention is not 
 paid the bird weakens and dies, having wasted to a 
 mere skeleton. Unless your bird is of special value 
 kill it at once for this disease is very hard to cure and 
 being exceedingly contagious whole flocks sometimes 
 die. The old saying an ounce of prevention is worth 
 a pound of cure, I have found good policy and when 
 this disease is once noticed, use the following precautions 
 to prevent others from getting it. See that there is no 
 cold draught in the house, although well ventilated as 
 it often originates in a cold. Next give only good food 
 and fresh water, whatever food having a tendency to 
 cause looseness of bowels to be discontinued at once. 
 Give feeding hoppers and water tubs a good scalding 
 out, and add a tablespoonful ortwo of the tonic made 
 as follows to each tub of water, never using this pre- 
 scription in anything but wooden receptacles. In mak- 
 ing this tonic which is very useful in treating many 
 other diseases also, take Copperas i ounce, Sulpiiate of 
 
42 
 
 Soda 4 ounces, Gentian Root i ounce, Phosphate of 
 Soda 2 ounces and pure Beech wood Creosote 1 dram. 
 First take the Creosote and rub well into 20 grains of 
 Calcined 3Iagnesia (otherwise it would not mix in 
 water) add it to two quarts of warm water, and follow 
 with the other ingredients. This I find the best tonic 
 and is an excellent thing to prevent disease, it having 
 the best antiseptic properties known for pigeons. If 
 this cannot at once be made up, a teaspoonful of Tr. 
 Chloride of Iron may be used but is not so good. This 
 is the best preventative of Going Light and most all 
 other diseases and is harmless. 
 
 CANKER IN THROAT. 
 
 This is by no means an uncommon disease es- 
 pecially among squabs at an age of a few weeks , It 
 greatly resembles diphtheria and some authors claim it 
 to be the same. It is caused by contagion and usu- 
 ally comes in Winter when the thermometer is low and 
 the air moist. The symptoms are fever, swelling of 
 throat after which appears ulcers on either side, form- 
 ing a yellow cheesy matter very offensive. This dis- 
 ease is hard to cure among squabs especially, and too 
 often cannot be cured, but the whole Hock must be doc- 
 tored and prevention used to keep the others from 
 catching it. I put a small piece of common alum about 
 i the size of a hickory nut, in the drinking water for 
 several weeks and the disease will not spread in fact I 
 was never bothered with it after once using. Do not 
 give too long, and every other week give the tonic. 
 
43 
 
 My profits in the Winter have been largely increased 
 by the above method, when others around me lost near- 
 ly all their birds. When old birds are afflicted, they 
 can often be cured by removing the cheesy matter and 
 applying a small quantity of burnt alum to the throat. 
 Never use turpentine as some do, for it has a tendency 
 to elevate the temperature of the bird which has at 
 that time a high fever, as it is. After applying the 
 burnt alum, which is a powerful astringent and eats 
 away the false membrane, some mild oil should be used 
 to encourage healing. A few drops of sweet oil or Cod 
 Liver Oil is good for this ]uirpose. Excellent results 
 have been obtained by painting the throat with a mild 
 solution of Permanganate of Potassium (10 grains to 
 an ounce of water being used. ) As this disease is 
 claimed by some to be diphtheria, great precautions 
 must be used in treating not to inhale the breath for it 
 has been contracted to persons.. I once read in a val- 
 uable medical book, where a family were all taken with 
 diphtheria, there being no other cases in the neighbor- 
 hood, it also being a healthy locality. They had recent- 
 ly purchased a lot of turkeys from a far off state. 
 These turkeys seemed ill and died off occasionally. The 
 physician in charge of the family made an examination 
 of the turkeys and tound mau}^ liad canker which he 
 termed was diphtheria, and was the cause of the family's 
 affliction. To go farther, they afterwards learned that 
 where the turkeys were bought diphtheria was a raging 
 epidemic. Therefore use all precautions when treat- 
 ing, and above all remove the birds afflicted to other 
 quarters. 
 
44 
 
 SOUR CROP. 
 
 Sour crop is nothing inoic nor less than indigestion 
 very often produced by feeding wheat and ci-aclved corn 
 together. If one grain is fed at one meal sour crop 
 will not prevail. It is something similar to the disease 
 crop bound, where the crop becomes overloaded with 
 food hard to digest and eaten hurriedly, or something 
 of an indigestible nature. The crop becomes purple 
 m color and is very hard, soon endangering the bird's 
 life if assistance comes not. Both can be readily cured 
 by administering a few drops of Castor Oil, and not al- 
 lowing any food for a day, after removing some of the 
 food from the overdistended crop. 
 
 INFLUENZA OR CATARRH. 
 
 Birds suffer as much from this disease as human 
 beings do. It is caused by a peculiar miasma in the 
 atmosphere and is often epidemic afflicting many birds 
 in a whole community at one time. The symptoms are 
 fever, eyes swollen and watery, and a sticky gummy dis- 
 charge from the throat and head, forming on their bills. 
 It is not dangerous to the old birds only causing weak- 
 ness, but when squabs contract it, often ends fatally. 
 Alum in the water is the best treatment and prevention. 
 
 ENTERITIS. 
 
 This is an inflammation of tbe bowels caused by .tke 
 bir4 having eaten some powerful irritant or caught se- 
 vere cold. The bird will stand all huddled up in a b,eap. 
 
45 
 
 feathers standing uiU and tail down. Diarriioea of a 
 severe form is always present, the excrement being com- 
 posed of nothing but mucous and blood. Give tonic in 
 water to which has also been added a small quantity of 
 laudanum. Worms are often the cause of this disease. 
 
 CHOLERA. 
 
 This disease is a kind of malarial affliction caused 
 by too many birds being kept in one loft, and at the 
 same time negligence on the part of the owner in keep- 
 ing the house and surroundings in a good sanitary con- 
 dition. This disease is never seen in a good healthy 
 breeding house. The symptoms are violent diarrhoea 
 with rather greenish discharges, containing some mucous 
 It usually comes in hot weather, so by carefully watch- 
 ing the water, giving fresh at times, and good feed 
 (never corn in Summer), this can be prevented. Using 
 the tonic in the water will effect a cure. 
 
 WORMS. 
 
 Pigeon raisers are often troubled with birds, that 
 although they eat healthy, do not thrive, and are always 
 moping around, and seem lazy. Oftimes their intestine? 
 are packed full of worms. Only one kind afflicts pig- 
 eons, and they are from 1-1 to an inch oi- two in length. 
 The presence of these parasites often set up a violent 
 enteritis as seen by the slimy discharge voided. Exam- 
 ining the excrement is the only sure w^ay of detecting- 
 worms and if found give the bird or birds afflicted 1-2 
 grain of Santonin every morning for three <lays fol- 
 lowing with a dose of Castor Oil the evening of the 
 
46 
 
 third day, when they will generally be relieved and 
 cured if taken in time. 
 
 VOMITING. 
 
 Birds are sometimes seen to vomit up a certain 
 amount of their food. This is caused by indigestion 
 and very often by feeding whole corn the large grain 
 variety. It is generally caused by not having enough 
 grit or gravel in the loft. This must be supplied at all 
 times, and diseases which they often get will be some- 
 what lessened. 
 
 LUMP IN THROAT. 
 
 This is of frequent occurrence especially in squabs 
 from two to four weeks of age. It is by no means a 
 common malady, and is nothing more nor less than the 
 lodgment of coarse grain in the throat. After a day 
 or so it seems to change in appearance and adheres to 
 the membrane of the throat causing an inflammation giv- 
 ing many fanciers and squab raisers an idea it is a 
 growth of some nature. This however is false and is 
 only grain lodged in swallowing. The best way to pre- 
 vent this disease or in other words a condition as it is 
 not a disease, is to feed only small grains such as wheat 
 etc. If corn is used have it cracked or else use the 
 small grained corn raised especially for birds. This 
 lump is hard to cure and a bird once afflicted can only 
 get relief by a surgical operation. Cut the skin, remove 
 the lump and stitch up again. This can sometimes 
 successfully be done after a little experience. This 
 condition is frequently mistaken for canker by ama- 
 
47 
 
 teurs, but as there is some resemblence, it will be found 
 that canker mostly affects the sides of the throat, where 
 the lump IS usually farther down the throat. 
 
 DISTEMPER. 
 
 This disease usually afHicts squabs and young birds, 
 and may be divided into three distinct classes. First, 
 when squabs attain the age of about a week, the nat- 
 ural milky food is checked and they are fed upon 
 coarser food which is harder to become digested. This 
 often causes a crop disorder, and the little squeakers 
 die for lack of nourishment. At al>out three weeks the 
 food still becomes coarser, and in fact is fed the young 
 almost immediately after eaten by the parents. This 
 hard food often remains in the crop undigested, and be- 
 comes fowl and poisoning by the fermentation going 
 on. The breath of the squab becomes foul, and the 
 old birds neglect them, and the young gradually perish. 
 A small dose of Castor Oil often cures this condition. 
 Second, when about three weeks of age the old birds 
 often build new nests, and lay other eggs, and com- 
 mence setting before their other squabs are able to feed 
 themselves. They of course do not pay the attention 
 to them that they did before, and immediately after eat- 
 ing the food they feed it to the young before it has 
 had proper time to become predigested as it were or 
 softened. This likewise remains in the crops undigest- 
 ed and finally causes anatomy of that organ. In a few 
 days if a remedy is not given to remove the undigested 
 food the squab dies. Diarrhoea is often caused by this 
 condition and likewise causes the birds death. A dose 
 
48 
 
 of Castor Oil should be given, enough to act as a gentle 
 physic. The old birds will then commence to feed them 
 again, and it is always best to give the oil several times 
 thereafter until the squab becomes able to digest the 
 food and to prevent a reoccurrence of the malady. 
 Third, squabs at the age of six weeks, about the 
 time they begin to fly out of the nests and forage for 
 themselves, are afflicted with another stage of distem- 
 per. They have diarrhoea, are mopish, and emaciate 
 very rapidly, finally dying without any apparent cause. 
 In these cases it will be found beneficial to pull out all 
 the tail feathers with one sudden pull, and give a dose 
 of Phosphate of Soda to cleanse out the bowels ot all 
 mucous etc. Give only plain soft food for a few days, 
 and at the same time a dose of Cod Liver Oil to help 
 strengthen. Birds when afflicted about the time they 
 shed their nest feathers can be treated the same way. 
 
 Rough outline for building and run suitable fob 
 Squab Raising. 
 
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 PIGEONS 
 
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 on this subject, been published in l>ook form. 
 
 Every Fancier, Old or Young, Should Have a Copy of this Book. 
 Price 50 Cts. By Mail. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 C. E. TWOMBLY, BOSTON, MASS. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Now Ready for Delivery and Invaluable to Every Fancier, 
 
 This book contains the very latest Standard of Perfection of 
 every vaiiety of Pigeons, giving an accurate and concise descrip- 
 tion of all breeds for which 
 no standard has been form- 
 ed. Nearly every variety 
 is illustrated with an up- 
 to-date drawing of the 
 ideal specimen. No fancier 
 can do without it. 
 
 No book has ever been 
 published at a price within 
 the reach of the humblest 
 fancier, containing all the 
 OFFICIAL STANDARDS 
 
 and 
 
 in the plainest 
 
 possible manner, the points required to make up the perfect 
 specimen of every variety of the pigeon family. Any fancier 
 with this book at hand can tell wherein his birds lack the re- 
 quirements of the ideal. 
 
 Price 50 cents, Post Paid 
 
 C. E. Twombly, 
 
 Publisher. 
 
 32 HAWLEY ST.,, BOSTON. 
 
All 
 
 Pigeon Fanciers 
 
 Subscribe 
 
 ....FOR THE. 
 
 The Best 
 
 Exclusive 
 
 Pigeon Paper 
 
 in.... 
 
 the World. 
 
 Pigeon 
 
 News 
 
 6 to 20 Pages, illustrated, 
 Semi=MonthIy, 
 
 Only $1.00 per Year. 
 
 Two Months on Trial for 25 cents. 
 
 Sample Copy Free. 
 
 C. E. TWOMBLY, P"'^"«her, 
 
 32 Hawley Street, Boston. 
 
PIGEON AND 
 
 Poultry Supplies. 
 
 EARTHEN NEST PANS 
 
 Every Pigeon Fancier 
 Needs These Nests. 
 
 Made of red clay, meas- 
 ures about nine inclies 
 across the top, with heavy- 
 bottom, therefore not easily- 
 upset. 
 
 These are the Only Practical Pigfeon Nests on the Market. 
 
 Price .15 each, 2 for .25, 6 for ,50, 12 for $1.00. 
 
 LEG BANDS, Seamless Aluminum and German Silver, for 
 
 all breeds of Pigeons. 
 
 National Message Holders for Homers. 
 DR. WENDEL'S PILLS for Going Light, Canker, etc. 
 
 25 cents per box, post paid. 
 SALT CAT, a combination of Grit and Tonic for Homing 
 
 and Fancy Pigeons, Birds, etc. Price per Brick 15 cts. 
 
 or by mail 40 cts. 
 Our Immense Illustrated Catalogue, describing over 1000 
 
 different articles, Free. Send for one. 
 
 Excelsior Wire & Poultry Supply Co., 
 
 w. p. Russ. Prop. 26-28 Vesey Street, N. Y. City. 
 
^PR 9 1907 
 
Jj^.^^^'^^ 0'^ CONGRESS 
 
 002 855 928 l\