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 PRLSCILLA 
 
 Basketi;y 
 
 Published by 
 
 ThePriscillaPublishing Co 
 
 Boston, Mass. 
 
 
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Ct)e 
 
 A COLLECTION OF BASKETS 
 AND OTHER ARTICLES 
 
 WITH 
 
 %t^9iom for l^orking anb Mttttiom 
 for J^peing anb Staining 
 
 BY 
 
 SALLIE G. FITZGERALD 
 
 PRICE. 25 CENTS 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 tlTfjc ^risciUa ^utilisting Company 
 
 85 BROAD STREET. BOSTON. MASS. 
 
 Copyright. 191 1, by The Priscilla Publishing Company. Boston. Mass. 
 

 A Group of Baskets in Various Styles 
 
 @CI,A306700 
 
Fig. 48. Various Pieces of Work made of Raffia 
 
 See page 28 
 
 29 
 
Vanity Bag of Silk and Raffia 
 
 SOAK a piece of No. 4 reed and wrap an inch 
 or so with raffia. Bend around as thougli to 
 start a stitched basket, but leave the centre open. 
 Continue wrapping the reed and joining to the 
 preceding row b}' putting tlie raffia over and draw- 
 ing through the loop, much like a buttonhole- 
 stitch. Make the loops which join the rows to- 
 
 Vanity Bag of Silk and Raffia 
 
 gether a good inch apart, and wider apart as the 
 work progresses, Four or five rows will make a 
 base 434 inches in diameter. Bring the end of the 
 last row around close to the previous row and 
 wrap both as one until it is secure. Around the 
 last row tie forty strands as we tied the strands 
 in the beginning of the " Evening Bag," on page 3r. 
 Then tie two rows around the bag as the sides of 
 the Evening Bag were tied. As we begin the 
 second row the two left-hand strands in the first 
 knot are doubled around the finger to form sort 
 of a tassel and sewed fast to the knot and the long 
 ends cut. The other two strands are tied to the 
 next and treated in the same wav. Tie five knots 
 
 for the second row, then finish the remaining 
 strands as before. Going on around, the bag will 
 be divided into four parts of five knots each, four 
 strands in a knot. Each time around we finish ofif 
 with a tassel, making fewer knots in a row, until 
 we finally come to a point, and the four strands are 
 finished off. The tassels, which should not be 
 very long, are picked apart to 
 look like fringe without cutting 
 the loops. 
 
 A bag of silk, with covered 
 pasteboard bottom, is made 
 and sewed inside. The base is 
 sewed to the last row of reed 
 and the four points are brought 
 up and tacked to the sides. 
 
 A very simple vanity bag is 
 made by tying long strands of 
 raffia in a small brass ring, the 
 kind used to crochet over. See 
 that the ring is well covered 
 and then tie in rows, using the 
 knot described on page 31. 
 There is reallj' no base to this 
 bag, except that formed by the 
 brass ring. Finish the top in the 
 same manner as the other bags 
 and line with a small square of 
 silk, as we lined the evening bag 
 on page 32. 
 
 RafHa Hair Receiver. — Make 
 a flat base 35^2 inches in diame- 
 ter in the Figure Eight stitch 
 described on page 26. Turn up 
 and coil the sides into a decided 
 orange shape. 
 
 A good way to determine 
 height of raffia baskets is to put 
 about as many rows in the 
 sides as there are in the base. 
 This is a pretty good rule to 
 follow for small baskets unless 
 one is making a butter-bowl 
 shape, which has no well de- 
 fined base. 
 
 Give to the sides, then, as 
 manj' rows as there are in 
 the base, shaping to a rather small opening at 
 the top. Make a flat lid to just fit this top, and sew 
 on with a raffia hinge. Or, if preferred, when the 
 sides are a little over half done, finish and make 
 an extra top thus: Start the coil with an open 
 ring lyi inches in diameter. Coil on this until 
 we have a lid which exactly fits the other part. 
 This is patterned after the small china hair-re- 
 ceivers with an opening in the top. 
 
 Note. — To dye yellow brown boil the material 
 slowly in the following solution for several hours: 
 One tablespoonful of cutch extract to one of fustic 
 in one quart of water. 
 
 30 
 
An Evening Bag of Raffia 
 
 SELECT nice long strands of rafifia and begin 
 by tying a slip knot in one strand as shown 
 
 in Fig. SI. In the illustration the piece of cane 
 
 has nothing to do with the work, being simply 
 
 used to hold up the raffia in order to get a better 
 
 photograph of the knot. 
 
 Also in Fig. 54 the cane 
 
 is merely used for the 
 
 same purpose. 
 
 Now in this loop 
 
 (Fig. 51) tie si.x other 
 
 strands (Fig. 52), using 
 
 the same knot, then 
 
 draw up the first strand, 
 
 thus completing a circle. 
 
 Now every strand will 
 
 •contain two pieces, and 
 
 on each strand (A, B, C, 
 
 etc.. Fig. 52) tie seven 
 
 other strands, one below 
 
 another, using the knot shown in Fig. 54, B. A 
 
 in the same illustration shows the process of tying 
 
 this knot. 
 
 By this time it will be found necessary to tack 
 
 the raffia to a board (through the circle formed 
 
 by the first seven knots) or pin to the knee — the 
 
 former method is, perhaps, more advisable, as one 
 
 can move the board about and work more quickly 
 
 than if stopping to unpin. 
 
 Take the strand of the sixth knot from the centre 
 
 in each group and tie all the intervening strands 
 
 with the knot in Fig. 54 B. This forms one-half 
 
 of the star, seven of which compose the pattern 
 
 in the base. Figure 55 shows a section of the base 
 
 and Fig. 53 shows the entire base. 
 
 Now at the end 
 of the seven knots 
 we find four loose 
 strands. Take the 
 one to the left in 
 the left hand, and 
 the outside one in 
 the next group 
 (this group will 
 contain twelve 
 strands) in the 
 right hand and tie 
 an ordinary knot, 
 tying twice to 
 make it hold. 
 Take the middle 
 strand to the left 
 in the former 
 group in the left 
 hand and tie again. 
 Take strand num- 
 ber two in the 
 .group of twelve 
 and repeat the 
 process until six 
 strands of that 
 group have been 
 
 Fig. 50. An Evening Bag of Raffia 
 
 used. Then begin with the other half, using the 
 other group of four and tying down to a point 
 which completes the star. 
 
 In tying this half take the strand in the group 
 of four in the right hand and the other in the left 
 
 and proceed as before. 
 In tying the knots 
 care should be taken to 
 tie each strand a little 
 shorter so as to form a 
 perfect star. In this 
 matter one may easily 
 be guided by the upper 
 half of the design. 
 
 When the stars are all 
 tied take the four 
 strands at the end of 
 each star and tie a knot 
 (Fig. 54 B) about a half- 
 inch below the point. 
 Using the same knot, tie all of the strands between 
 each two stars. 
 
 Now take a long piece of raffia, and, beginning 
 with the strands at the point of the star, tie each 
 one to the raffia in a simple over and through knot. 
 Tie the four strands in a straight line, but upon 
 coming to the next group tie each one a trifle 
 longer until six have been tied, then shorter again. 
 It might be well to hold each of these points to 
 the board with a tack, leaving the tacks in until 
 the sides of the bag are completed. When all 
 strands have been tied on we have another and 
 larger star enclosing the base. Tie ends in a 
 firm knot. 
 
 Take any four strands, and using the two outside 
 
 
 ^^^^^fei 
 
 
 
 w^^m. 
 
 
 
 ^HB\ V V^^^H&^.OkA 
 
 ^v vT/^^^n j^m a iu 
 
 
 Fig. 51. Slip Knot for the 
 Foundation 
 
 Fig. 52. Six Strands of Raffia Tied into Loop 
 
 See Fig. 31 
 
 31 
 
Fig. S3. Bottom of the Finished 
 
 See Fig. 65 
 ones fashion a knot (Fig. 54 B). This knot is used 
 for the remainder of the work. 
 
 Tie all around in this manner, and then taking 
 two strands of the last knot and two of the first 
 go around again. 
 
 - Keep the first four or five rows almost perfectly 
 flat on the board or lap and keep the knots equal 
 distances apart. 
 
 The remaining rows can be tied a trifle closer, 
 as this is what shapes the bag. 
 
 Tie around about twelve times, which makes an 
 ordinary sized bag. Now to finish off the top. 
 Select a long, firm strand of raffia and tie each 
 strand to it with a double knot, tying the ends 
 together when all have been tied on. Using an- 
 other long strand repeat the process and we have 
 a nice little finish which will not ravel when the 
 remaining ends are neatly cut off. In finishing 
 the top care must be taken not to make the open- 
 ing too small. 
 
 To line such a bag three-quarters of a yard of 
 China — or any silk 27 inches wide — and three 
 yards of ribbon are required. 
 
 Bag 
 
 Stitch a hem about 3 inches 
 wide all around the silk, turn- 
 ing the corners in carefully to 
 make points. Run a casing in 
 the hem as wide as the ribbon, 
 leaving the space in the points 
 between the two rows of stitch- 
 ing open for the ribbon to run 
 through. 
 
 From the top of the casing 
 to the end of each point should 
 be neatly blind-stitched. 
 
 Now cut the ribbon in two 
 pieces and run through the cas- 
 ing in the usual way, then divid- 
 ing the raffia bag into four 
 parts, place a point of the silk 
 at each of the four parts with 
 the strings out, not inside of the 
 bag, and carefully sew around. 
 The top of the bag will come 
 exactly to the lower edge of 
 the casing. 
 
 It is a good plan to tack the 
 lining to the bag with a couple of stitches here and 
 there through some of the knots. 
 
 A pure white or natural colored raffia bag is 
 very pretty lined with any dainty color, and dark 
 green raffia lined with light blue is most effective. 
 
 Fig. 54. Finished Knot and Way of Making 
 
 Fig. 55. Section of Base of Evening Bag. 
 Actual Size See Fig-. 53 
 
 32 
 
Some More Pretty Bags 
 
 AVERY elaborate bag is the one sliown on the 
 right of page 29. It is made exactly on the 
 plan of the "Evening Bag" described on page 31; 
 but as it is intended to carry slippers, it requires a 
 much longer, or, as we should say in making, 
 higher, bag. Therefore twenty-four rows are 
 needed to be tied before it is finished off. This, of 
 course necessitates silk for the lining 36 inches 
 wide, and will require one yard. The bag here 
 described has a lining 
 of pink messaline with 
 strings of pink satin 
 ribbon. Three yards 
 are required for the 
 strings. If one does 
 not wish such an elab- 
 orate lining a pretty 
 sateen will do. as it 
 also comes 36 inches 
 wide. Line just as we 
 did the Evening Bag. 
 
 Figure 56. Work-bag. 
 
 — The illustration here 
 shown is the base of a 
 popular work - bag. 
 Start exactly as the 
 Evening Bag, only use 
 thicker strands of 
 raffia. Make just like 
 the Evening Bag until 
 the point where the 
 long strand was tied 
 in the base forming a 
 star and enclosing the 
 smaller ones. Instead, 
 when the seven small 
 stars are completed, 
 tie the usual knot at 
 the base of the star 
 and there will be 
 twelve strands between 
 each two stars. Witli 
 those tie three knots 
 (four strands each), 
 the ones nearest the 
 point of the star should 
 slant toward the point, 
 and the middle one 
 •even. 
 
 When all are tied tie a second row of knots 
 all around the bag. Then soak a piece of No. 3 
 reed, splice the ends together by wrapping with 
 thread. This forms a ring about S'A inches 
 in diameter. Wrap closely with rafifia and tie 
 the ends in a small firm knot. Now lay it 
 down on the bag so it is an equal distance from 
 the last row of knots on every side. It will prob- 
 ably have to be pinned or held in place by some 
 one else. Tie each strand to this ring by slipping 
 the end over the ring and up through the loop 
 thus made. It will require a little care to get the 
 ring in evenly. Now between every four strands 
 
 tie on a new strand of raffia in this way. Double 
 in the middle and slip both ends over the ring 
 and up through the loop, drawing up tight to the 
 reed. 
 
 Finish the sides as before by tying each four 
 strands in the knot described. About twelve or 
 fourteen rows will make the bag large enough. 
 Finish around the top as we did the Evening Bag. 
 
 The lining is a little different, however. Cut 
 
 
 two round pieces of cardboard the size of the base. 
 Cover one side of one piece with a layer of cotton 
 batting, then cover one side of each piece with silk 
 and sew the two uncovered sides together, the side 
 with the cotton batting going on the inside of the 
 bag. For the sides cut a strip of silk once and a 
 half as long as the bag is inches around. This will 
 allow plenty of fulness. Cut 3 inches wider than 
 the bag is high, turn down at the top, running hem 
 and casing in together. Sew to the cardboard 
 and tack inside the bag. The strings should be of 
 silk cord to match the lining, The cheaper thin 
 silks should be used for lining, as stiff silk cuts. 
 
 33 
 
Raffia Hats and Caps 
 
 THE easiest raffia hat is made from braided 
 raffia, as shown in Fig. 57. Braid in three 
 strands, using two pieces in each strand. It makes 
 a httle nicer-looking braid than three single strands. 
 Wrap the end of the braid firmly with raffia and 
 thread the same piece through a large needle and 
 commence the hat. Keep the edges together in 
 starting, in fact for several rows, then gradually 
 flatten each row a little, just like a mat. This forms 
 the top of the crown. When large enough begin 
 the sides of the crown by sewing the edge of each 
 row to the middle of the preceding row, and for 
 the brim allow more freedom of the braid, but keep 
 centre and edge of the two rows together as in the 
 
 Fig. 57. Braided Hat 
 
 sides of the crown. When the brim is the required 
 width sew the last part of the last row of braid 
 under the brim of the hat, winding the edges with 
 raffia as we did in starting the hat. Measure over 
 a straw sun-hat and it will be sure to fit com- 
 fortably. 
 
 This makes a large flat hat, but if a rolling brim 
 is desired tighten the last few rows as they are 
 sewed on. The sewing should all be done with 
 fine raffia, in such a way that the stitches run the 
 same direction as the twists in the braid. 
 
 The hat may start, as described, in a point and 
 a. tall crown formed after the style of a sombrero, 
 or any desired shape may be evolved as the braid 
 lends itself readily to almost any shape. The braid 
 may be of a solid color or of mixed colors, and 
 while such hats are quite attractive it must be con- 
 fessed that they are just a trifle heavy. 
 
 A nice little automobile cap or bonnet, just 
 enough to keep the dust from the hair, is made of 
 raffia, just like the polo caps so popular in winter. 
 The roll is smaller and a thin silk lining put in. 
 
 As many do not know how to crochet these caps, 
 the following method may be substituted with much 
 the same effect. Split the raffia and start as we did 
 
 the bag on page 31, only more than six strands are 
 tied in if desired. About Yz inch from the centre 
 begin to tie the knots described on the sides of 
 the bag on page 31 and continue row after row, 
 keeping to the shape of the polo cap. This is easy 
 to do for, as in the bag, tying each row of knots 
 a trifle closer together pulls the shape in, while if 
 the rows are far apart the circumference grows 
 wider. Finish the edge as we did the bag, but do 
 not line with the square of silk. Line with a plain 
 round lining, or as we did the work-bag minus the 
 pasteboard. A casing and strings are not neces- 
 sary, though a tiny frill of ribbon or silk may 
 finish the edge. 
 
 A Lingerie Hat of 
 Raffia. — The crown of 
 this hat is shown in 
 Fig. 58. Start as we 
 did the Evening Bag. 
 only instead of six tie 
 in ten, making eleven 
 double strands when 
 the knot is drawn up. 
 The ring thus formed 
 need not be as small 
 as the one in the bag. 
 About I inch from the 
 centre tie a row of 
 knots as before. There 
 will be eleven knots 
 in this row. Then I 
 inch from this row tie 
 another row, using two 
 strands from each knot. 
 Two more rows are 
 tied in this way, eleven 
 knots in each row. 
 Then a piece of No. i reed is wrapped and tied 
 in as in the work-bag described on page 33. The 
 four strands of each knot are tied close together 
 over the reed, leaving a space between each two 
 knots. Four strands are tied in between each two 
 knots and the top of the crown is completed. If 
 this crown is larger than desired, the rows of 
 knots may be tied closer together before the reed 
 is tied on. Now tie several rows, the number 
 depending upon the height desired. Tie them so 
 the shape is straight up and down, and then tie 
 in another very fine reed to form the base of the 
 crown and the beginning of the brim. More 
 strands may be tied in here if one desires to have 
 the knots on the brim close together, but be sure 
 to tie an equal number between each of the spaces. 
 Tie five or six rows, keeping them out flat, and 
 then finish with an edge as we did the bag, and 
 sew a fine reed all around the edge with raffia to 
 keep the brim in place. One should use a hat, a 
 size that is becoming, and take the measurements 
 of crown, brim, etc., from that. This hat should 
 be lined with a thin silk and trimmed very simply. 
 A large rose or wreath of fine flowers is quite 
 sufficient, while the braided hat should have simply 
 
 34 
 
a band and bow of ribbon, or band and braided 
 knot of raffia. 
 
 Another crown is made of very fine raffia, exactly 
 like the base of the work-bag, and the hat finished 
 like the one above. The reeds used in these hats 
 must be extremely fine in order to make the hat 
 light in weight. Or a very fine wrapped wire may 
 be substituted for the reed, this having the advan- 
 tage of being pulled into shape more easily without 
 fear of breaking. 
 
 A Raffia Hat over a Wire Frame. — Select any 
 wire frame that is becoming and wrap the wires 
 with raffia, sewing where necessary. Now, begin- 
 ning at the centre of the crown and using the 
 wire ribs as spokes, weave the entire hat closely 
 and fasten the threads by sewing to the wire. The 
 edge of the brim may be buttonholed, if desired. 
 
 Hatpin Holder. — Make a raffia base in Lazy 
 Squaw stitch the size of a quarter. Start the sides 
 and keep the same circumference all the way to the 
 top. The holder should be long enough to hold 
 a hatpin and may have a little cushion into which 
 the pins are stuck. If made with a foundation 
 of No. 3 or 4 reed it works up quickly. Make a 
 small handle of braided raffia about 3 inches long 
 and sew to the holder with a plain thread of raffia. 
 Fasten it between the 
 middle and the top of 
 tlie holder, sewing be- 
 tween the reed and 
 making the stitches 
 go the same way as 
 those in the holder. 
 
 Basket to Hold Rib- 
 bons. — Cut a very 
 stiflf piece of card- 
 board 12 inches long 
 and 4 inches wide and 
 cover neatly w i t h 
 flowered cretonne. 
 Then very carefully 
 bore fifty-eight holes 
 around the edge — one 
 at each corner, 
 twenty-two on each 
 side, and ten across 
 each end. Cut four 
 pieces of rather heavy 
 reed each 3^ inches 
 longandputone 
 through each of the 
 corner holes. Now 
 cut fifty-four pieces 
 of No. three reed 
 each 3 inches long 
 and put through the 
 remaining holes. Let 
 the end of each spoke 
 protrude slightly 
 from each lower hole, 
 just enough to catch 
 a weaver over. Make 
 
 all of the spokes even across the top, which pushes 
 the four corner spokes a good half-inch below all 
 of the others at the bottom. These form the feet. 
 Now take a long splint or a split reed, putting the 
 flat side towards the basket and hold it firmly 
 around the basket just above where the spokes are 
 inserted in the holes. Wrap the feet neatly with 
 raffia and tie at each of the four corners to the 
 splint band. Starting at one of the corners wrap 
 down around the protruding spoke and up around 
 the same spoke, going on to the next one and so 
 around, thus securing the splint and holding all 
 of the spokes in place. Now weave all around 
 with braided straw in under and over weaving for 
 1% inches. About five times around with the straw 
 will make it, although the width of the straw has 
 something to do with it too. Now cut fifty-four 
 pieces of No. 3 reed each I inch l•^ng. Place one 
 in the last row of weaving beside each spoke (omit- 
 ting the corner spokes), keeping the tops even and 
 bind another splint around with raffia just above 
 the last row of weaving, catching this time the two 
 pieces which now form every spoke. Make a lid 
 like base, for the top, and fasten with narrow rib- 
 bon hinges. This same idea may be carried out on 
 a reed base made like No. 11 on page 13. Insert 
 side spokes, doing away with the feet and band of 
 splint. Finish top and lid with a fancy edge. 
 
 Fig. 58- Crown of Lingerie Hat 
 35 
 
Woven Raffia Mat or Rug 
 
 FOR convenience in illustrating this rug is 
 woven on a small loom g x 6^ inches, making 
 the rug only 7% x 5% inches. 
 
 Thus, if we want a larger mat or rug we must 
 have a larger loom. 
 
 Adjustable looms may be bought at various 
 prices, according to size. etc. Loom needles can 
 also be purchased, but if one does not expect to 
 weave extensively a simple loom may be made at 
 home. The one in the illustration, Fig. 60, is of 
 pasteboard. Cut the pasteboard, as we said before, 
 about 9x6^< inches and % of an inch from both 
 top and bottom, draw a line and mark off dots all 
 along each line }i of an inch or so apart. Number 
 them I, 2, 3, 4, etc., from the right. Pierce the 
 pasteboard, making a hole of each dot. At the 
 right side run a long knitting-needle through the 
 lower hole nearest the edge, across the pasteboard 
 and through the opposite upper hole. Do the same 
 on the left side. On a larger loom one must use a 
 piece of stiff wire. These wires keep the sides of 
 the rug straight, without them it would be difficult 
 to keep the rug from falling in towards the middle. 
 
 Thread a large needle with raffia and put through 
 the fifth hole at the top, from the back to the front, 
 through the fourth from front to back, etc., until 
 we come to the first hole, when the needle is behind 
 the loom. Put it through the first hole and down 
 
 Fig. 59. Woven Mat or Rug 
 
 across the right-hand wire and out the first hole 
 at the bottom, through the second hole at the 
 bottom and across to the second hole at the top 
 (see illustration). Continue until all of the holes 
 have been used and fasten as we started by putting 
 the needle back and forth through several holes. 
 
 Now we are ready to weave. Thread the needle 
 again (the rug will be much thicker and firmer if 
 the raffia used is heavy and smooth) and about six 
 threads from the upper left-hand corner place the 
 needle under a thread, over the ne.xt, etc., the wire 
 and raffia over it being used as one thread. Let 
 a little end of the raffia stick out at the right of the 
 sixth thread. Put the needle back under the wire, 
 over and under the same threads as we did in 
 starting to weave until we come to the thread 
 where we started, then continue over and under 
 across the loom, around the wire and raffia and 
 back again. Keep the weaving close by pushing 
 gently towards the top where we started. When 
 the loom is entirely filled the wires are pulled out 
 and the loom cut away, being careful not to cut 
 any of the raffia. The edge may be left as it is 
 or sewed over and over with raffia, or a short 
 fringe of raffia sewed on. 
 
 Perhaps a firmer rug could be made by stringing 
 the loom with stout twine and weaving with raffia. 
 Now try weaving a border. Across the end weave 
 several rows of a color, then one row of the natu- 
 ral, several more of the color, then the body of the 
 natural. Repeat this border at the bottom. 
 
 A Border all Around. — Start the weaving with 
 a color and weave a border about 2 inches across 
 the top. Now with the needle threaded with natu- 
 ral raffia place it just under the border 2 inches 
 from the right. Weave across until 2 inches from 
 the left, turn and go back, leaving this much space 
 on both sides and weave until within 2 inches from 
 the bottom. Now thread with the color and begin 
 at the upper right-hand corner and weave until we 
 reach the thread that has the natural, turn on this 
 thread and weave with the color along the right 
 side as far as the natural raffia goes. Do this on 
 the left side and then weave a 2-inch band of the 
 color across the bottom. 
 
 In piecing tie a small knot and cover with weav- 
 ing, or lay an end under and over (the weaving) 
 and proceed. 
 
 Another Border. — Weave several rows of the 
 natural, then two rows of brown (or any color), 
 two of the natural, five of brown, three of 
 natural. This forms the middle of the border. 
 Repeat backwards' — that is, five of brown, two of 
 natural, two of brown. Weave the body of the 
 mat. Repeat the border at the bottom. 
 
 Plaid Rug. — String the loom with a few threads 
 of one color, then of another, repeat the first color, 
 etc. In the weaving use the colors in the same 
 order and the rug will be plaid. 
 
 36 
 
Designs. — String the loom with plain raiifia, then 
 every lierc and there weave a stripe or square or 
 diamond of some color and fill in the open spaces 
 with weaving of the natural. Thus we make designs 
 in a rug. 
 
 A Card-case. — Make just like the rug first de- 
 scribed, about 4x9 or 10 inches when finished. 
 Weave plain or with a design as preferred. A 
 monogram is pretty if one is clever enough, then 
 fill in with plain raffia. Cut the loom away and 
 face one side with silk. Fold in the middle and 
 then fold each end towards the centre for 2 inches. 
 Sew the folded ends down to the sides with raffia. 
 If an initial or monogram is used place it be- 
 low the centre, so it will come on one side of the 
 case. 
 
 A Mat or Rug with DifTerent Weaving on Each 
 Side. — Make a loom as before, using wire on both 
 sides, and in stringing put the needle through the 
 first hole at the upper left-hand corner across the 
 back to the hole at the lower left-hand corner, 
 through this to the front and across the front to 
 where it started. Tie it here and then put through 
 the second hole from the left, across the back, 
 through the second hole below, etc., until the holes 
 are all filled and the loom is strung on both sides. 
 
 In weaving begin at the upper right-hand side, 
 weave over one and under one or over two and 
 under two until the left side is reached, when the 
 needle goes through the pasteboard to the other 
 side, across that side and through to the right 
 again. 
 
 One side should have designs and the other be 
 done in plain weaving. Be very careful in cutting 
 the pasteboard away. 
 
 A Shallow Flower Basket. — Make an oval base 
 ioj4 X 7 inches, as described in No. 10 on page 13, 
 only weave with raffia instead of reed. Use smooth, 
 heavy raffia, or rush if preferred. Insert the side 
 spokes and weave with fine reed a couple of rows of 
 triple twist, then the remainder of the basket with 
 raffia in pairing. The sides should be about S inches 
 high, including edge. Use edge No. 17 on page 12, 
 description on page 13. Bind the edge and the last 
 row of weaving together all the way around with a 
 piece of raffia. The rather low handle has three 
 pieces of reed, one beside each of the three middle 
 spokes on either side. They are wrapped with raf- 
 fia in under and over weave across and back until 
 almost the centre where the three pieces are treated 
 as one and wrapped around and around until the 
 same place is reached on the other side, when the 
 raffia takes up the under and over weave again. 
 
 Another shallow flower-basket is made entirely 
 of reed — a very large oval base is made as de- 
 scribed, but instead of inserting side spokes, the 
 base spokes are left quite long and very gradually 
 bent or rolled up on each side while the weaving 
 continues, then the sides are given a slight roll 
 outwards and the whole finished with edge on page 
 6 — Fig 7. Handle No. 22 on page 13 should be 
 used on this basket. 
 
 Clothes Baskets are made on the same oval bases 
 onlj' of course on a much larger scale. Such a 
 basket for a doll would greatly please any child. 
 Make the base as above about 10 x 7 inches and 
 the sides (with extra side spokes) about 6 inches 
 high. Use edge 17 on page 13 and attach side 
 handles described in the Willow Basket on page 
 47. 
 
 Clothes Hampers. — Number i has a reed base 
 and reed side spokes, which must all be colored a 
 dark red before the weaving is begun. The base is 
 woven fiat on twelve spokes and is almost 12 
 inches in diameter when finished without the 
 edge. Make edge No. 12 on page 13 just as though 
 we were making a mat. Now insert the side spokes, 
 being careful not to injure the edge, and weave 
 in pairing one row of red reed, two rows of dark 
 green braid- 
 e d straw, 
 a n o t h er of 
 red reed, etc. 
 all the way 
 to the top. 
 This use of 
 the red 
 w e a V e r s 
 gives a plaid 
 effect to the 
 basket. Keep 
 the sides 
 straight and 
 make the 
 hamper 
 about 25 
 inches high. 
 Make a cover 
 like base, us- 
 ing the same 
 edge. Thus 
 the edges on 
 both base 
 and cover 
 protrude beyond the sides of the basket. Fasten 
 the cover to the basket with the hinge shown on 
 page 6, and the front fastening on the same page. 
 
 X^umber 2 is a barrel-shaped hamper and is also 
 made on twelve spokes, only it is concave instead 
 of a flat base made entirely of reed. The reed 
 in this hamper is a very faint tan and should be 
 previously colored. Insert forty-eight side spokes 
 and weave si.x or eight rows of the reed on triple 
 twist, then about 6 inches of tan straw in pairing, 
 another band of reed in triple twist and so on until 
 the hamper is 25 or 26 inches high. Weave around 
 the top a couple of times with reed before the 
 edge is laid down. The bands of reed give the 
 idea of hoops on a barrel. Use edge No. 16 on 
 page 13. 'Make a lid also concave, the hollow part 
 going inside. Use a few rows of reed to start 
 and finish the cover, the intervening part being 
 woven with straw. Use the same edge. No. 16 on 
 page 13, and a hinge and fastening of the braided 
 straw. 
 
 Fig. 60. Loom for AIat 
 
 37 
 
Fig. 6r. Some Easy Splint Work 
 
 See page 39 
 
 38 
 
Easy Splint Work 
 
 THE illustrations on the preceding page are of 
 Indian splints bought by the roll and easy to 
 manage. The very lirst thing we shall learn to 
 make is a square base, several of which are given. 
 Number l is perhaps the easiest thing we can make. 
 Cut twelve lengths of splint, each about 54 of an 
 inch wide, six should be white and si.x some color. 
 In this cut they are red. 
 
 Lay them down vertically, first a red, then a 
 white one, etc., until we have eight in a row. Then, 
 beginning at one end — 5 or 6 inches from the 
 edge — and using a white splint, weave under, over, 
 etc., the white going under the white and over the 
 red. Next use a red one and weave over, under, 
 and over, the red going over the white and under 
 the red. Use another white one, then another red 
 one and our base is completed. The splints with 
 which we weave should be equal distances apart, 
 and enough edge should be left all around to turn 
 up for spokes at the sides. Splints, like reed, 
 should be wet before using, though with the ash 
 splints used here a single dip in water will make 
 them pliable enough. They also dry more quickly 
 than reeds, and must be dipped in water more 
 frequently. 
 
 Number 2 is the base of an oblong basket, and 
 the splints there used are quite narrow. Eight are 
 laid down vertically and the weaving done with six 
 splints of the same width, and all of white ash. 
 
 Number 3 is a square base or a good way to 
 make a cover. Lay down, horizontally, five colored 
 splints equal distances apart. Weave in under and 
 over, weaving first with a red splint, then two white 
 ones, then another red one, and so on until ten 
 weavers have been used. Notice that the fourth 
 and fifth weavers from each end are woven the 
 same way, both under and both over the same 
 splints, etc. Now with a white splint weave under 
 the corner, over all of the others until we come to 
 the middle, where it goes under, and again over 
 the others imtil we come to the opposite corner. 
 Weave from the other two corners in the same way. 
 The ends of these two diagonal pieces are now cut 
 back of the corners under which they were started. 
 They will easily hold when the spokes are turned 
 up for the sides. 
 
 The large baskets used for delivering, etc., are 
 made on this plan, though, of course, the splints used 
 are much wider and thicker. Also, instead of fin- 
 ishing the top, as is described on page 40, a strip 
 of the wood is neatly nailed around with tiny nails. 
 
 Number 4 is a mat made with rather broad splints 
 woven into a square in under and over weaving. 
 Ten splints are used — five laid horizontally and 
 five used as weavers. When all are in place a strand 
 of rafifia is doubled around a spoke (piece of splint) 
 and a border woven in pairing, being careful to 
 keep the corners square. When the border is as 
 deep as desired the ends of the weavers are tied 
 around the spoke and the ends of the splints cut. 
 
 Then a needle is threaded with raffia and the edge 
 buttonholed all around the needle, going not only 
 through the rafifia between the spokes but through 
 the spokes as well. If desired, a braid of raffia may 
 be sewed around the edge. 
 
 This is also a nice way to finish a round mat. The 
 round bases are described on page 40. 
 
 Splint Basket with Compartments. — For this 
 basket cut white ash splints the kind used in the 
 illustrations on page 38. Cut eighteen of them 
 each 12 inches long, and twenty-four each about 
 l/]i inches long. Each one should be about yi 
 inch wide. Lay down vertically nine of the 17^- 
 inch ones and about ^yi inches from one end begin 
 to weave a base with the 12-inch ones, letting about 
 y/z inches protrude to the left before we start to 
 weave. Such a base is shown in Fig. 66, page 42. 
 When we come to the ninth splint, wet and turn 
 sharply up as for a side. Close to that lay the 
 remainder of the i7J/2-inch vertical spokes and 
 weave with the remaining horizontal ones, and 
 upon coming to the centre again turn up the ver- 
 tical spokes close against the others and weave 
 over and under with more splints the same width, 
 thus forming a partition up the middle of the base. 
 Where the two parts of the base come together 
 a splint is woven vertically over and under to hide 
 the place of joining. Now all around the outer 
 edge of the base weave once with a very fine splint 
 not much wider than a cord. The finished base 
 is iiJ4 X Syi. Wet the splints and turn up for the 
 sides. Weave twice around with a Va-inch splint 
 and between these two rows of weaving twist a 
 roll of yz-'mch splint as follows. Place under the 
 the first row of weaving, give a turn or twist and 
 slip under the second row, another twist and 
 back under the first row and so on all the way 
 around. Then put in six rows of the narrow splint 
 with which we bound ofif the base and two more 
 rows of the wider, and between them a roll like 
 the one just described. Now around both inside 
 and outside of basket and both sides of partition 
 run a flat reed and bind over and over with a nar- 
 row splint. Trim the edges of the spokes close 
 to the binding around top. At the ends attach 
 small ring handles like the one shown on page 
 38. The cover which just fits this basket is made 
 as a flat base. On the fifth splint from each side 
 is placed a reed iil4 inches long and on the third 
 from each end is placed one 85^ inches long. The 
 reeds are put in to make the lid firm and the weav- 
 ing goes over and under them as usual. Three 
 rows of fine splint are woven around the edge, the 
 ends of the mat or cover tucked in under the 
 weaving, and a roll similar to the ones on the 
 basket is put on just inside of the narrow splints 
 around the edge. The lid is not fastened to the 
 basket, but is lifted by means of a small ring at- 
 tached to the middle of the cover, through a smaller 
 one, the ends of which are woven ofif under the 
 splints on the inside of the cover. 
 
 39 
 
Round Splint Baskets 
 
 THIS basket may be built upon either of the 
 bases here shown. The first one, Fig. 62, 
 contains eleven spokes, ten of equal length and 
 the other one half the length of the longer ones. 
 
 ■■■■ 
 
 
 ^^^HBfei^Hh^ ^^^^^^H 
 
 
 Fig. 62. A Round Basket 
 
 Lay a spoke down vertically and cross it horizon- 
 tally with another, cross the corners, diagonally, 
 and continue crossing the corners, which are now 
 closer together, until the ten spokes have been used. 
 Stick the half spoke in securely between the others. 
 
 Now double a piece of raffia or a long splint, so 
 fine as to be scarcely more than a cord (previously 
 wet if the splint is used), around a spoke and weave 
 in pairing. The half spoke, as will be seen, is put 
 in to make the odd number. Great care must be 
 taken in starting these bases. When a couple of 
 rows have been woven the remainder is easy. 
 
 The second base, Fig. 64, is much the same. 
 Si.x splints each 13 inches long and J4 of an inch 
 wide and one splint 13 inches long J4 of an inch 
 wide at one end and ^ inch wide at the other are 
 required. Cross them as in Fjg. 63 and then split 
 the one spoke from the yi inch end to the centre. 
 This again gives the odd number, without which 
 the under and over weave will not come out even. 
 Take a piece of splint extremely narrow and very 
 pliable, insert between the spoke which has been 
 split and weave around in imder and over weaving. 
 If a splint is not easily managed split a piece of 
 No. I reed (previously well soaked) and use half 
 of it. It will perhaps reach the centre better as 
 it is round on one side. Just as in the other base, 
 when the spokes are crossed and bound together 
 the hard part is accomplished. Weave this entire 
 base in under and over weaving until 2% inches in 
 diameter. Wet the spokes and turn up evenl3'. 
 Take a weaver a trifle narrower than the spokes 
 and weave the basket in under and over weaving. 
 
 Great care must be taken to keep the weavers 
 close to the base and close together. It is a trifle 
 hard to keep the shape of such a basket, and also 
 to keep the weavers down, especially if they are 
 somewhat broad. 
 
 In piecing, simply place the new weaver back 
 of the old one and weave as before. When the 
 
 basket is 3J4 inches high finish the weaving by cut- 
 ting the weaver to a point and running along back 
 of one or two spokes. 
 
 Now cut the remaining ends of the upright 
 spokes and bend them either inside or outside of 
 the basket, right down over the same spoke be- 
 tween the weaving. Thus one spoke goes over 
 the last row of weaving and the next spoke goes, 
 outside of it. 
 
 Press the spokes down very closely, so the top 
 of the basket has quite a plain appearance. Now 
 take a very narrow weaver and pass through one 
 of the spokes where it is bent over at the top, 
 across the next, through the next, etc. Draw in, 
 a very little and keep close to the top. Finish as 
 we did the weaving by cutting to a point and pass-* 
 ing through a couple of the bent down spokes. 
 
 Another edge, shown in Fig. 65, makes a nice 
 finish. After the edge has been turned down out- 
 side, take a long splint as wide as the weavers in 
 the sides of the basket, select any spoke and slip 
 the weaver under or rather through from right to 
 left in the top row. Holding the short end in place 
 with the left hand, pass the long end over and then- 
 back under the same spoke in the row beneath. 
 Then back to the next spoke on the right and 
 repeat all around, fastening the end down under 
 a spoke. 
 
 Side handles make a nice addition to such bas- 
 kets. Take a piece of splint about yi inch broad 
 and 6J4 inches long and overlap the ends a little 
 way, forming a ring. Then with a long narrow 
 piece of splint,-wen soaked, wrap around the ring,, 
 the wraps being not too close together. Start by 
 laying the long end of the splint along the ring, 
 pointing to the right, then wrapping back over it. 
 When the point is covered turn the ring upside 
 down and wrap in the usual way. Fasten by push- 
 ing the end back vtnder several wraps. 
 
 Now take a short piece of splint I/2 inch wide 
 and placing it over the ring like a fold press the 
 ends down over a spoke and between the weavers. 
 
 T"ii; 113. I'lK.-^r D.\si; 
 
 40 
 
Fig. 64. Second Base 
 
 Fasten a n - 
 other ring in 
 t li e same 
 way to the 
 opposite side 
 of the bas- 
 l<et. 
 
 These rings 
 may have 
 r a fifi a laid 
 along the top 
 and then 
 bound to- 
 gether with 
 the under 
 splint in the 
 same way, or 
 they may be 
 well wrap- 
 p e d with 
 raffia and 
 sewed to the basket. A round handle is shown 
 in the illustration on page 38. 
 
 Another round basket has the base started with 
 a fine piece of splint, which gradually grows 
 broader as we leave the centre, until it is as wide 
 as the spokes. Make the base about S inches in 
 diameter and the sides 2 inches high. After the 
 spokes are turned down in the plain finish de- 
 scribed above, place a band of raffia or a narrow 
 band of splint around the top and sew over and 
 over with raffia, or bind with a narrow splint, as 
 we did the ring handles. This basket may or may 
 not have the side handles. 
 
 If the weaver in the base is too wide it will 
 pucker, thus drawing the base up in the centre. 
 Deft fingers may pinch the weaver between the 
 spokes into tiny plaits, which will lie flat when the 
 base is finished, and w-ill not be unattractive. 
 
 Occasionally in such baskets weave in a couple 
 of rows of braided raffia or raffia in pairing or 
 triple twist. Or use splint weavers in different 
 colors and widths. Stripes, squares, etc., will sug- 
 gest themselves as one works. 
 
 Work Basket with Wooden Base. — The founda- 
 tion of this basket is a wooden base 5 inches square. 
 Bore forty-eiglit holes around near the edges and 
 insert in them splints y/2 inches long and ;4 of an 
 inch wide. Lay a reed around to hold them and 
 bind fast with a narrow splint. Immediately above 
 this run ribbon I inch wide in and out like the under 
 and over weave, then a reed laid on the outside and 
 bound to each spoke with a splint. Next, a row 
 of straw I inch wide, another row of ribbon and 
 another reed bound on. Last, two pieces of splint 
 — one on the inside and one on the outside of the 
 spokes. The spokes are cut close and a narrow 
 band of straw laid along the top, and this and the 
 two pieces of splint are bound fast with a narrow 
 splint. Wrap once and then pull a loop in the 
 straw, another wrap and another loop, etc., all 
 around. At the middle of each side of the basket 
 the loops are made gradually larger, giving a 
 
 pointed effect on each side. The basket has a 
 thick, padded lining to match the ribbon in color. 
 
 Wood Basket for Fireplace. — This basket is 
 made from oak splints 2 inches wide. Weave into 
 a base 8x16 inches, after the manner of the square 
 bases shown on page 38 and described on page 39. 
 Soak well and turn up the sides and weave twice 
 with 2-inch splints. Around the inside and outside 
 of the top lay bands of the oak three-fourths of an 
 inch wide and fasten securely with the smallest 
 of nails. The handle is a broad piece of oak a 
 little over an inch in width, run down through the 
 side weaving and secured at the top with the small 
 nails. Do not dye this basket, but stain with the 
 Turpentine and Light Oil Finish to which a few 
 drops of cherry stain have been added. The result 
 will be the dull terra-cotta so much seen in Indian 
 baskets. 
 
 Wall Pocket for Letters. — Cut very narrow 
 splints 18 inches long and enough when laid side 
 by side vertically to measure 7 inches across. Have 
 the splints all of the same width and just far 
 enough apart to allow a weaver to go between. 
 Exactly through the middle weave a row or two 
 of pairing with narrow splints, then dip in water 
 and bend up the sides and continue the weaving 
 until the basket is finished. It will be a flat pocket 
 about 6x7 inches. For the edge turn the splints 
 over, lay lengths of splint along the inside and 
 outside and wrap with a very narrow splint bind- 
 ing, or use one of the edges described on page 
 40. This pocket may be simply fastened to the 
 wall by a tack or may have a flat splint handle 
 described in the long basket on page 42. This 
 same idea may be carried out on a larger scale, 
 making pockets for newspapers, wrapping paper, 
 etc. Plaid and striped effects are easily gained by 
 using different colored splints. 
 
 Fig. 65. Detail of Fancy Edge 
 
More Splint Baskets 
 
 FOR this basket three splints, each 6 inches 
 long and J4 inch wide, and four splints, each 
 14 inches long and Yz inch wide are used. Lay down 
 horizontally first one of the long splints, then a 
 short one, another long one, etc., as shown in 
 Fig. 66. Now cut seven splints, each 14 inches 
 long and a little less than Yz inch wide. Weave 
 with these. Take the first one, which goes over 
 
 Fig. 66. Square or Oblong Base for 
 Splint Basket 
 
 one, under one, etc., or under the edge of the three 
 short splints. When we have used the seventh it 
 will also be under the three short ones on the other 
 end. See that the two end weavers are directly 
 under the ends of the short pieces. Wet thor- 
 oughly and turn up. Now start a weaver behind 
 any splint and go around in under and over weav- 
 ing. When around start another and go around 
 in the same way. Keep the weavers down and turn 
 the corners sharply, holding the two corner splints 
 well together and bending the weaver to fit the 
 corner. If the side weavers are narrow, the effect 
 will be far prettier and the basket easier to handle. 
 
 When the basket is about two inches high, finish 
 by putting the ends of the splints down between 
 the weaving, as in the basket shown in Fig. 62, only 
 do not press them down flat, leave enough stand 
 up to form a loop. A splint is then woven around 
 the top as in Fig. 62, page 40. 
 
 Many attractive boxes for candy, gloves, etc., can 
 be made in this manner. A square one for hand- 
 kerchiefs and an oblong one for gloves, etc. Make 
 just like the basket above, finish with the flat edge, 
 then make a cover like the base, only a trifle larger; 
 turn up as for a basket, but weave only a few rows 
 and finish with the edge as shown in Fig. 65. 
 
 The Long Basket, with the handle, which is 
 shown on page 38, was made by western Indians. 
 The oblong base is made as the one described 
 above, only the splints are quite narrow and all of 
 the same width. The sides are woven diagonally 
 of extremely fine splints, and the handle is like the 
 long ones showii on page 38, and made thus: Lay 
 two pieces of splint, the required length for a 
 handle, side by side, and with a very narrow splint 
 weave over one and under the other, up over that 
 one and down under the first again until the entire 
 handle is wrapped in this way. Push the edge of 
 the splints, as well as the beginning of the weaver, 
 under the weaving and finish the other end in the 
 same way. Such handles should be sewed to the 
 basket with strong thread. If the splints are very 
 thin, or if raffia is used also, lay several pieces to- 
 gether, one under another, forming two piles of 
 splints, and fasten them together as before. Some- 
 times the under pieces are splint and the filling on 
 top of raffia or some other grass. This makes a 
 nice handle if the basket has some raffia woven in. 
 
 The Little Straw Baskets seen in candy and fruit 
 stores are made in this way, with a splint base and 
 several rows of braided straw woven in the sides. 
 Some of them also have splint sides. These baskets 
 are made largely in Japan, but are extremely easy 
 to imitate. 
 
 A Clothes Hamper can be made on a round or 
 square base, as already described, though the splints 
 for these baskets must be much thicker, preferably 
 of oak. 
 
 Make the base quite flat and the sides with a 
 very slight flare towards the top. A narrow band 
 of the oak should be neatly tacked around the top 
 with the tiniest of short nails. A flat cover may be 
 made and fastened with a narrow splint hinge, like 
 the one in the reed basket on page 6. 
 
 How to Cane a Chair 
 
 Cane is sold at the same places where basket 
 materials are kept and comes put up in bundles like 
 reed. Instead of being numbered the. different 
 widths are called coarse, fine, etc. 
 
 Take the chair which needs recanmg and cut 
 away all of the cane close to the wood. First find 
 the centre hole of the lower row and draw up 
 through it a piece of cane which has been soaked 
 a little while. Take across to the top and down 
 through the centre hole in the top row, fasten with 
 a peg and let a few inches hang down beneath. 
 Now go back to the bottom and bring up the cane 
 through the next hole on the right, keep it flat and 
 take across to the top where it goes down through 
 the next hole. Continue filling the holes to the 
 right, omitting the one next the edge, and keeping 
 the weaving quite loose. 
 
 Finish the edge on the wrong side by drawing 
 the cane a couple of times through the loop next it. 
 
 42 
 
Go back to the centre of the bottom and fill the 
 holes from there to the left side in the same way. 
 Turn the chair around, start with one of the sides 
 and go through the same process, remembering 
 here also to keep the cane loose. The seat is now 
 filled with small squares. Start at the lower left- 
 hand corner and weave the cane over and under 
 the small crosses and single canes until we reach 
 the opposite side or upper right-hand corner. Go 
 from centre to right, then from centre to left as 
 before, and then start from the opposite corner 
 and repeat. 
 
 Now cover the holes with a row of binding cane 
 used for this purpose. It is brought through one 
 of the corner holes and laid over the holes all along 
 the edge and held in place by a narrow piece of 
 cane, which is brought up through every other hole 
 and down again. When the edge is completed the 
 binding-cane is put through the hole from which 
 it started and finished ofT, as before described, on 
 the wrong side. 
 
 Porch and garden chairs are done in flat rush, 
 or wide cane, or splints, usually in the under and 
 over weave, around the edges of the chair and 
 across the under side and up again being woven 
 off on the under side. A common pattern is to 
 lay the vertical spokes across the frame and weave 
 horizontally with two weavers laid side by side 
 and used as one. Weave the back to match. 
 
 Clothes Hamper of Willow and Rush. — This has 
 for a foundation a round wooden base about lo 
 inches in diameter. Cut the side spokes about 30 
 inches long and cut twice as many as there are 
 holes in the base and insert two in each hole. 
 Instead of pulling them up through the holes (see 
 Fig. 33. page 18) let 4 inches of each spoke pro- 
 trude below the base, spread apart, keeping two 
 pieces in each spoke and weave five or six times 
 around with willow in double pairing and finish 
 with edge No. 17 on page 13. The basket is now 
 turned up and the sides built. Weave a couple of 
 times around with willow in double pairing, then 
 finish the basket with rush in single pairing until 
 an inch or two before the top is reached, when we 
 have another row or two of double pairing in wil- 
 low and any fancy edge desired. This basket is 
 about 25 inches high and is the shape of the stone 
 water-pitchers that the women of long ago carried 
 on their shoulders. It has quite large ring handles 
 made of braided rush and attached to the sides with 
 a .small piece of willow twisted around and woven 
 off on the inside of the basket. 
 
 An Orange-Shaped Basket to hold balls of yarn 
 is made of fine reed previously colored. Start on 
 the order of the bird's nest on page 19 and weave 
 into a shape which looks just like the half of an 
 orange. Finish with edge No. 17 on page 13 
 and then make another basket on the same dimen- 
 sions just like the first one. Place the two pieces 
 together with a small hinge and attach a long 
 twisted handle to the lower half of the basket. 
 
 Odd-Shaped Baskets such as heart shape, etc., 
 
 are made on thin wooden bases cut into the desired 
 shape. The wood may be stained to match the 
 reed, or a design burned in and painted. Insert 
 the side spokes as in the Ribbon Box on page 35, 
 omitting the feet but keeping the protruding spokes 
 perfectly even, or if preferred put in the spokes as 
 in Fig. 33, page 18, only having an even number 
 of holes in the base. Use, for the sides, fine reed 
 in any weave, bending the spokes in and out as the 
 case may be to keep the shape of the base. If a 
 cover is desired use one in burnt wood to match 
 the base. 
 
 Trays for Tea or Coffee Service. — The bases 
 should be of wood as they stand much better than 
 if woven of reed. Select then a wooden base at 
 least 8 X 16 inches, either oblong or oval, and burn 
 it in any chosen design. With a small paint-brush 
 touch up the design and then bore an even number 
 of holes around the edge. Do not insert all of 
 the side spokes at once. Put in about a dozen and 
 pull several inches through on the under side of 
 the base and make the following edge: Take No. 
 I back of No. 2, in front of No. 3 and push down 
 and cut off inside. Insert several more spokes and 
 continue the edge all around. When finished turn 
 the tray right side up, straighten the upstanding 
 spokes and weave four or five times around in 
 triple twist. Use any flat edge as a finish. The 
 tray may be with or without side handles. If 
 handles are used they should be the upright ones 
 described on page 47. 
 
 Flat Card Basket with Braided Handle. — Start 
 like flower-bowl, using si.xteen spokes and weave 
 a base 5 inches in diameter. Then a braided handle 
 is inserted as described on page 13 (No. 21.) The 
 base is now woven another inch and the sides 
 turned up and woven in pairing about an inch high. 
 For the border each spoke (two pieces) is brought 
 back of the next one on the right, in front of the 
 ne.xt, and down back of the next, and cut off inside 
 of the basket. If long weavers are chosen the 
 entire weaving may be done without any piecing. 
 
 Fig. 67. B.\SKET in Process of M.\king 
 
 43 
 
A Work Bag of Splints 
 
 THIS unique bag is really not as hard to make 
 as it looks. Cut nine pieces of white splint, 
 each 6 inches long, and one piece 4 inches long. 
 Each of the nine pieces should be cut in the shape 
 
 of B, Fig. 69, 
 about % of an 
 inch at the 
 widest part 
 and quite nar- 
 r o w in the 
 middle. The 
 other piece 
 should be 
 slightly over 
 half as long as 
 the others 
 (see A, Fig. 
 69"). Arrange 
 the base as 
 shown in Fig. 
 63, and, using 
 fine r a flfi a , 
 start to weave 
 as close as 
 possible to the 
 centre. As Vi-e leave the centre, coarser strands 
 of raffia may be used. The weaving is done in 
 pairing, just like Fig. 63, only raffia is used all the 
 way out to the edge. The base may be kept per- 
 fectly flat or made slightly concave. When almost 
 6 inches in diameter tie the weavers in a knot 
 
 Fig. 68. For the Thimble 
 
 around a spoke and clip the edges of the spokes 
 evenly all around. With a large needle threaded 
 with raffia carefully buttonhole the entire circum- 
 ference. If it seems a trifle loose, go over it again, 
 this time in the opposite direction. Make a bag 
 out of silk or ribbon 40 inches long and T/i inches 
 wide. Run in a casing with strings of ribbon or 
 silk cord (two yards for 
 the strings) and sew the 
 bag to this base. The tiny 
 pincushion inside should 
 match the bag in color and, 
 if possible, in material. 
 The raffia in this bag is of 
 the natural color, but raffia 
 to match or harmonize 
 with the silk works up well, 
 and the dark colors do not 
 show the usage as much 
 as the lighter ones. 
 
 n 
 
 U 
 
 Fig. 69 
 
 Splints fok 
 
 Foundation of 
 
 Fig. 70 
 
 Figure 73. Thread Bas- 
 ket. — Cut nine splints, or 
 
 rather eight and a half, the same shape, eight 
 should be 4% inches long and the other 2% inches 
 long. Put together and weave in the same way, 
 using fine raffia. When the base is a good I'/z 
 inches in diameter, wet the spokes and turn up 
 evenly all around. Weave as before until the sides 
 are l}4 inches high, when the edge is finished off 
 with buttonholing like the base. Start another 
 
 Fig. 70. A Work Bag of Splints. Inside of Bag 
 44 
 
base in the same way, and when 2^8 inches in 
 diameter (or as large as the diameter of the top of 
 the basket) wet and turn up, weaving the sides a 
 good J4 of 3n inch high. Finish ofif like the others 
 and fit over the top of the little basket for a cover. 
 Sew the back of the cover to the back of the 
 basket with raffia, leaving loose enough to open 
 and shut nicely. With a needle draw a strand of 
 raffia through the centre of the top of the cover 
 and tie in several knots to form a small knob. 
 
 This basket 
 will be large 
 enough to 
 c o n v e n i- 
 cntly hold a 
 spool of 
 thread. 
 
 Figure 68. 
 Thimble 
 Basket. — In 
 
 exactly the 
 same w a y 
 make a n- 
 
 t h e r little 
 basket for 
 the thimble, 
 making the 
 base almost 
 
 1 inch in di- 
 ameter and 
 the sides i% 
 inches high. 
 If it seems 
 difficult t o 
 manage s o 
 
 many small pieces, use seven long pieces and one 
 short one in the thimble-case. 
 
 Figure 71. Pincushion. — Now make a third 
 basket with a base i inch in diameter and 1/2 inch 
 high. Instead of a cover a small pincushion is 
 made and sewed inside. 
 
 Figure 72. Scissors-case. — One more article 
 belongs to this bag. Take a pair of embroidery 
 scissors and wrap a splint the width of the scissors 
 across the points and reaching well up to the 
 handle. Wrap another splint the opposite way 
 (the splints must be wet until very pliable). If 
 laid out flat these splints would form a cross. 
 Hold securely to the scissors and weave with 
 raffia from the point to the handle in under and 
 over weaving. It will go easier if the raffia is 
 threaded through a needle and woven that way. 
 After a good start is made, each spoke may be 
 divided in half, making eight instead of four spokes. 
 Finish like the thread and thimble baskets around 
 the edge and sew the raffia in two loops at the 
 back of the case to better represent scissors. Sew 
 the thread-case to the middle of the large base, 
 
 Fig. 72. For Scissors 
 
 the thimble- 
 case and pin- 
 cushion o n 
 one side and 
 the case for 
 scissors o n 
 the other 
 side. 
 
 A bag like 
 this, woven 
 with flat rush 
 instead of 
 
 rafiia, is firm, attractive, and the work moves along 
 quickly, though the rush, especially in starting, 
 must be quite fine. 
 
 A Collar and Cuff Box on this plan is quite new. 
 The splints will need to be cut much longer, and we 
 will use more of them — eleven long ones and one 
 half length. Weave with raffia into a base about 
 7 inches in diameter, then wet and turn up the 
 spokes as we did for the thread-case. Do not 
 flare, but keep the sides quite straight and weave 
 high enough to hold a man's cuff. Then make a 
 perfectly flat cover a trifle larger in diameter than 
 the top of the basket. Turn up and weave the 
 sides perfectly straight. This cover is not sewed 
 fast to the basket but is made large enough to fit 
 snugly over the top. Such a bo.x is durable and 
 weighs ne.xt to nothing. 
 
 Another box might be patterned after the square 
 splint basket, the base made of splints and the 
 sides woven with raffia. These same bases, thread, 
 thimble and scissors cases, may be bought in many 
 of the stores, but they are somewhat expensive 
 where enough are collected for a bag, and they 
 are also made of sea grass which has an odor 
 offensive to some persons. 
 
 Fig. 73. For Thre.\d 
 
 45 
 
Hints and Suggestions 
 
 THE basket-maker should now try some ideas 
 of her own. So many materials about one's 
 home may be utilized — grasses, leaves of the cat- 
 o-nine-tail, willow, etc. Then as to shape and de- 
 sign there is practically no limit to the scope of 
 one's ideas. 
 
 Some suggestions will be here given 
 that the maker may work out for her- 
 self. With the knowledge of basketry 
 already acquired this should not be 
 difficult. 
 
 First the bag heie shown, Fig. 75. It 
 is worked in raffia on heavy canvas. The 
 details of the stitches and design are 
 given, and anybody who can use a needle 
 will find it easy to make. 
 
 Then in coloring — in mixing colors, 
 "weavers, and designs, one may gain odd 
 and beautiful effects. 
 
 study color and design on a pretty piece of matting 
 and imitate on tlie loom. 
 
 The small wire lamp and candle shade frames are 
 easily wrapped and decorated or woven with raffia. 
 
 5SZ2Z=5:S5S5!""">B*B**BBeBBa**s: 
 
 [SfiSfiS95*S9!"«aBa 
 
 
 ■■■■■■■■I 
 
 Fig. 74. Border Design in R.affi.i 
 
 Take the raffia mat or rug on page 36. Sofa 
 pillows, picture-frames, pocketbooks, tooth-brush 
 holders, etc., may be made on the same plan. Also 
 
 Fig. 75. R.-\FFiA and Canvas Bag 
 See detail Fig. 76 
 
 Raffia may be braided and sewed into a napkin- 
 ring, or reeds wrapped and bound together into a 
 napkin-ring. 
 
 Very many little baskets of reed, raffia, 
 and splint may be made round or square 
 and put to use in numberless ways. Some 
 padded and lined with silk, with the addi- 
 tion of a cover, make odd jewel-cases. Or 
 very tiny baskets to hold salted nuts or 
 bonbons, placed at each plate, make unique 
 favors for a luncheon. 
 
 Patterned after the " Flower Bowl " on 
 page 7, a glass, vase, or bottle may have a 
 netting of reeds. 
 
 Buy a pair of slipper soles, sew strands of 
 raffia all around and, using the knots de- 
 scribed on page 31, weave a pair of house 
 sandals. 
 
 Deep Work-basket. • — • Make a deep bowl- 
 shaped basket. Start it inuch on the order 
 of the birds' nests, only much deeper and 
 wider, and keep the base fiat to make it 
 stand well. Make the spokes of reed, and 
 weave with rush. Do not soak the rush too 
 long, as it readily takes up the water and 
 then shrinks when dry, thus spoiling the 
 shape" of the basket. Also when weaving 
 with rush press each weaver very closely 
 against the last one for the same reason. 
 Weave a few rows of reed in triple twist 
 around the top just before finishing off. 
 This will help the border to stay down. 
 Use border No. 16 on page 13. Make the 
 cover just like the basket, and when it is 
 just the size of the basket finish with the 
 same border. This basket should have a 
 hinge (see description and illustration on 
 page 6) of narrow rush and a little knot or 
 
 46 
 
bow of rush to lift the cover 
 by. The knot is made by slip- 
 ping the rush through the weav- 
 ers in the centre of the cover 
 and tying the ends in a knot or 
 bow. The very small, flat 
 pieces of rush are necessary for 
 hinge and knot, also in starting 
 the basket. It may also be 
 started with fine reed, and since 
 the borders of both basket and 
 cover are of reed the hinge may 
 be of reed also. 
 
 A Doll's Table is not hard to 
 make, and might interest the 
 children. Use pieces of reed at 
 least 25 inches long and weave a 
 base or mat several inches in 
 
 diameter on six or eight spokes. Make the border 
 like No. 12 on page 13, only instead of cutting the 
 spokes push them through the weaving almost to 
 the centre and bring out on the inside. Be sure to 
 bring each row out between the same rows of 
 weaving. Soak the spokes and bind together 
 firmly in a bunch and then separate into three or 
 four groups, each group being wrapped with raffia 
 and serving as a leg. 
 
 A chair may be made in the same way, and by 
 inserting e.xtra spokes a back may be attached. 
 
 For one starting in the basket business and 
 wanting a souvenir or advertisement of her work 
 a very pretty one can be made as follows: Take 
 a small piece of cardboard and prepare a loom • — 
 page 36, only drawing an oblong space inside and 
 stringing with rafiia as far as this space instead 
 of all the way across. 
 
 Weave as we did the rug and then sew a band 
 of rafiia or rush around the inside and a 
 couple of rows around the outside. Paste 
 a plain piece of cardboard across the back 
 The centre space should be utilized for ad- 
 vertising matter or souvenir verse and a 
 small calendar attached below. 
 
 A Willow Basket. — This idea may be car- 
 ried out in reed, as willow requires an almost 
 xmlimited stock of patience. A base 7^ inches 
 in diameter is woven on eight quite heavy 
 spokes. Instead of inserting thirty-two side 
 spokes, one on each side of a base spoke, use 
 si.xty-four, two on each side. Use fine willow 
 for these, about the thickness of No. I reed. 
 Each two side spokes are now treated as one, 
 and a row of triple twist is woven and then 
 the weaving starts in double pairing, which 
 continues for 4 inches, when two rows of 
 single pairing are woven. Then the remain- 
 ing spokes are wet and the following border 
 woven. Still treating two spokes as one 
 number them i, 2, 3, 4, etc. Bring i back of 
 2, over 3, back of 4, over 5, back of 6, and 
 
 76, 
 
 The Pattern Useu for the Bag 
 
 See Fig. 75 
 
 cut off just so the edges rest on the outside 
 of spoke 7. Do not press down close to the top 
 of the basket, but leave about the space of an 
 inch, which will be filled in in turn by the other 
 spokes. The basket should have a very slight flare 
 outward from bottom to top, and should measure 
 38 inches in circumference around the top when 
 completed. 
 
 Two pieces of reed each eight inches long are cut 
 and used as upright handles, one on each side. 
 Press the end of one piece down to the left of a 
 spoke through the edge and through about three 
 rows of weaving below the edge. Leave two in- 
 tervening spokes and press the other end down to 
 the left of the next spoke. Wrap with a fiat piece 
 of willow. Start by twisting several times 
 through the edge and around the handle, wrap 
 across the handle and repeat. On the opposite 
 side of the basket the other handle should be 
 similarly placed. 
 
 ■■■•■■■■■(■■•■■•■•■■•■•■^■■■•■■■■•■■ftaK»aBB»BS«SZ7fS555!S!"rf 
 
 ■■■- 
 •■•• 
 
 ■■a- 
 ••aL 
 laaaa 
 iiaaaa 
 
 ■•■■aai 
 laaaa*' 
 laaaaa 
 
 laaaaaaa 
 
 iiaaaiaa; 
 
 iaaaaa>a 
 
 aaaaaaajja. 
 ■ ••••aaaaa. 
 •aaaaaaaaai 
 ■aaaiajaaaa 
 ■aaaaajaaaa 
 
 ■aaaaaaaaaa 
 ■■aaaaaaaaai 
 laaaaaiaaaaaa 
 
 '"■■•""Jaaaaa 
 !aaa>aaaaaaaaainiiaaaaaaajaiaiiiii(fijiiiiB|iaaiaii;z::aBfiii 
 
 SaaiaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaiaaaaaaaaaaaaaaiaaaaaaiSSSISlIil 
 S«««iaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa;a»»B»«»»j»»»«»»aaaaaa«»;;;;gaa»»gjg 
 
 Fig. 77. A Florentine Pattern in Raffia 
 
 47 
 
Where and How to Sell Baskets 
 
 THIS side of the subject will prove interesting 
 mainly to those who wish to take up Bas- 
 ketry as a livelihood or to the home girl who wishes 
 to earn a little pin-money. 
 
 Take first the girl who works for herself. She 
 can afford to sell her baskets somewhat cheaper 
 than those made in a shop or factory, as she has 
 no labor for which she must pay a reasonable sum, 
 and she is at no great loss if there should be a 
 slump in the sale of baskets. 
 
 Such a maker can easily sell a small work-basket 
 for twenty-five cents, a flower-bowl or carrying 
 basket for fifty cents, and a scrap-basket for a 
 dollar and a half. 
 
 The evening bag and work-bag bring each a 
 dollar and a half, while the raffia baskets, owing to 
 the time spent on them bring higher prices. They 
 run from one to five dollars, according to size. 
 
 And even if one does not earn so much money, 
 think of the pretty gifts to be made at small cost, 
 and the attractive, as well as useful, articles that 
 may be added to one's home. 
 
 The girl wishing to start a shop must do things 
 on a much larger scale. She must lay in a good 
 supply of materials and expect some waste while 
 her laborers are learning the trade. The best way 
 is to have one person make bases, another do the 
 finishing, etc., or teach each one to make a special 
 kind of basket. In this way each becomes proficient 
 in her work and better results are obtained. 
 
 Those who color, polish, and pack should receive 
 a weekly salary, but the makers do piece work, 
 thus each one's earnings depend upon her quick- 
 ness and neatness. 
 
 Of course the flower-bowl coming from a shop 
 will cost from seventy-five cents to a dollar and a 
 half, for the maker must be paid from ten to twelve 
 and a half cents, and the selling commission be 
 taken into account. 
 
 A scrap-basket bought at such a place will be at 
 least four dollars. Of course seconds — baskets 
 made by beginners — a little untrue as to shape 
 and with slight mistakes in weaving, etc., may be 
 bought much cheaper. 
 
 How Large Shops Sell. — Once or twice a year 
 a room is rented, a sale advertised, and the baskets 
 sold in this way. Also several times a year the 
 salesman or woman, as the case may be, takes 
 several hundreds of baskets to the larger cities, 
 rents a room in a fashionable hotel and sends out 
 cards to dealers and friends, their friends and 
 acquaintances, etc.. Of course high prices are 
 asked, but this must needs be, as she who runs a 
 shop is put to great expense. Also, the girl who 
 wishes to start a shop, hire helpers, and go into 
 business must have a license, but it is a business 
 which, if well run, is both fascinating and lucrative. 
 
 A very encouraging fact to those who wish to 
 make a business of basketry is that it is not a 
 passing fad, but a sure means of earning a liveli- 
 hood. It is work that may be done equally well 
 by either sex, though men as a rule prefer building 
 
 the heavier baskets — market-baskets, clothes, 
 hampers and those done in the oak splints. It 
 is also interesting and lucrative employment for 
 invalids and those who are not able to get about 
 with ease, as it requires merely the use of the 
 hands and a true eye. The little art baskets are 
 not much seen on the other side of the water 
 though willow and the heavier baskets are turned 
 out in quantities. 
 
 In our own country the basket business is grow- 
 ing rapidly. One large factory in Pennsylvania 
 turns out six carloads of useful baskets a day. 
 That is where the money is made — in turning out 
 all kinds of baskets. The art baskets are good 
 sellers too, especially at the Christmas and Eastej; 
 seasons, but the market and other carrying baskets 
 are in demand all of the time. Of course if made 
 entirely of reed they bring very good prices, but 
 the willow and straw baskets are very profitable 
 owing to the fact that they cost less, and while the 
 selling price is not so large they are sold in large 
 quantities. 
 
 The only way to make money in basketry is to 
 go into business. If you live near a large, or even 
 a small shop, the chances are that they will buy 
 your work, giving you perhaps a fair sum, or they 
 may furnish the material and merely pay you for 
 your time; but all business ideas of your own are 
 discouraged. Competition is the life of trade, how- 
 ever, and if one can really turn out good work 
 there is no question about selling it. Bear in mind 
 the statemerrt made before on this page, that if 
 one hires employees higher prices must be asked 
 for the baskets. The progressive basket-maker 
 must be always on the outlook for new ideas and 
 suggestions, and w-ill finally be able at a glance 
 to criticise a basket as to material, shape, and 
 weaving. Do not forget to advertise, and this may 
 be done in many ways. A small gift to an out-of- 
 town friend has been known to bring many orders. 
 Write to florists and dealers and ask to submit 
 samples. Send your best work. Send, perhaps, 
 a small basket and tell in how many sizes and 
 colors it may be made. The following is the 
 description of an ordinary sample advertising 
 market-baskets: 
 
 Five pieces of green willow, each 7 inches long, 
 are cut and laid horizontally about an inch apart. 
 With finer willow a base is woven like No. II on 
 page 13. Thirty-two side spokes of willow are in- 
 serted, and a row of willow in triple twist is put 
 in first, then three rows in under and over weave are 
 put in. Then two rows of natural-colored straw 
 braid, next a row of the straw in a deeper yellow 
 color, and then one row of ash splint Y2 inch 
 wide, dyed red, another row of yellow straw, two 
 rows of natural straw — all of this in the under and 
 over weave, — and finally a row of willow in triple 
 twist. Edge as described on page 15 and handle like 
 the Shallow Flower Basket described on page 37. 
 This is the fac-simile of one of a large number of 
 baskets used to serve a picnic luncheon. 
 
 48 
 
The Priscilla Irish Crochet Book (1909) — A 
 book, that includes all die stitches and backgrounds 
 used in Irish Crochet, with full directions for work- 
 ing, together with a large assortment of beautiful floral 
 motifiy all of which have full directions and can be 
 arranged in numberless attractive ways for the many 
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 this new book doubly valuable. Price, 25 cents. 
 
 The Priscilla Tatting Book (1909) — This book 
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 in The Modern Priscilla, as well as many new 
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 work arc given and the designs include dress garniture, 
 collars, handkerchiefs, centrepieces, doilies, etc., with 
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 I'le Priscilla Knitting Book, No. 2 (1908) — 
 \ This is our second instruction book on Knitting. It 
 in no way impairs the usefulness or value of Knitting 
 Book No. I, issued by us in 1903, but rather sup- 
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 Each step is fully described. Over one hundred stitches 
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 How to Make Baskets — Contains full, illustrated 
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 French, Eyelet, and Shadow Embroidery Book — 
 
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 The Priscilla Book on Mexican Drawn-work 
 
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 The Priscilla Manual — A valuable handbook on 
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 Mexican Carved Leather and English Raised 
 
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\ 
 
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 017 111 339 8 • 
 
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