UltBt Wt Jnrgrt By EDWIN F. SURBER Lest We Forget By EDWIN F. SURBER TIIK SlIKXAXlxiAlI RIXKK onlh llninch— Nciir Minini-, Waircii Co.. \'a. :'l'.\Xl).\l;|i I'KiN I l.\(; (:y old tu-whit, tu-whoo, of great hollow tree; Whose blinking eyes slow pilot him along. On heavy wing to feed on writhing snake. Or loathsome toad, or scurring rodent. The musical chimes of many June frogs. Mingle with the low note of the mocking bird. Waked to ecstacy, that trills sweet and low. From his leaf-hidden perch in rugged elm. The trembling night wind sighs in the tree tops ; 'idle Spirit of the Valley glides through the mist, The ghost of \^oyageur floats over the water. The wild duck feeds where the cat-tails grow. THE MILL DAM-HEAD OF MOSSY CREEK A White Mill Swathed in Weeping Willows. Li;s'i- W'l-: I'^oucirr 13 MOSSY CREEK CHURCH-1861 The Scotch-Irish Presbyterians, who are among- the first to pre- empt the rich soil, found here a sylvan paradise, and mindful of tlie great Creator's beneficence, built in a grove of ancient oaks, a house of worship, named for the mossy creek, which was fed by springs from every field and all the hills, welling up from lime- stone reservoirs, and prospering, they surrounded themselves with the refinements of education and of culture. The nearby Acad- emy laid the foundation for college and for university. Preten- tious, of red brick with its colonnade portico and si)acious cam- l)us, it crowned the summit of a neighboring' hill with its easy ascending slope; while below were the traditional rows of white- washed dormitories with boarding-house. ( )ther churches were scattered about on .Ahnmt Zion's with high steeples to be nearer the throne of (iracc. or in se(|uestcred gTOves to woo Deity to pleasant retreats. A summer Sabbath day spent here, was an occasion long to be remembered. The .Sunday school preceded the sermon, and while the assemblage from the country-side awaited the hour of service, thev were grouped under the shade of the trees, seated upon the gnarled roots of the oaks, or on slab benches, or stood l)v turns, or were stretched ujjon the g^reen sward. They were discussing the condition of the crops ; the contemporaneous events of ])olitical. social, religious, and educational life until time for service to begin. Afternoon service was ])rece(led In- lunch. Well-filled baskets were open to all who came. Prake-wagon and barouche were appropriated bv young women who queened over the rustic beaux. Stamping feet and swishing tails of neig'hing horse and whinny- ing mare that were tethered to saplings, hitching-jiosts. and bridle-racks, and acccnitred witli saddle or harness, together with the carpet-bag. that hung from the oiif-horn of the side-saddle witii its essentials of toilet, were features of this rural scene. SILVER LAKE, DAYTON, VA. -ROUND HILL IN THE BACKGROUND T.r.sr \Vi'. Vorckt THE WAR BETWEEN THE STATES On April 17, 1861, \iro-iniu. after vainly protesting;' a.^ainst the armed invasion of the South : Flunj;- down with rage tlie gauntlet of defiance, To the gathering" clans of Yankee Xorthnien, Refusing longer unfair alliance, i Struck her shield a mighty blow, — and when It rung from hill to hill, — she struck again, h'rom crest of peak to ocean beach, a hcxst Awoke. — each lowland man and mountain clan, — - To see the fiery cross — the\- drank the toast : "To win or lie with slain of battlefield." their boast. Lest Wr Forget THE VILLAGE SCHOOL AND AFTERMATH Forth from the village school came the teacher arrayed in glittering- uniform, to lead to battle and to death, those whom he had only sought to teach. In but a little while the entire mili- tary population of the State was under arms. The wheels of industry choked for want of tending. Young boys with women and girls were left "to drive the team afield." The schools closed. The academies and colleges became hospitals ; or stood tenantless with broken shutters and doors ajar. That brief, bloody, four years of war, swept away youth and manhood. The nucleus of an empire, that X'irginia was nursing for conquest of the industrial realms of the south and west. At the close, when charred walls and fenceless lands failed to mark its pathway, — a riderless horse stood in the stable, or roamed the pasture field. Or an empty saddle hung on the rafters, or a spur or gauntlet, over the fireplace ; reminders of him who lies asleep in the churchyard, or on the field where he fell, or the prison where he died. - ■' • -" The maimed with crutches, gave further expression to this voiceless woe. Little children scarce knew, — for the hand of sorrow touches them lightly ; but their future was marred, their means of education, of culture, suddenly withdrawn. Many were orphaned and helpless. The property loss was incalculable and irretrievable. Measureless was the disaster. CYCLOPEAN ToWEKS, AUGUSTA CO.. VA. Loca iy knfivvn as "The Chimneys. "' Lf.st Wr Forget 19 THE BELLS OF LONG GLADE The pastor, who on the viUag^e square prayed and exhorted, as he gave the silken banner to those who went forth to the fray, — many of whom returned only for burial beneath the oaks of the churchyard, — labored to give such comfort as he could to stricken homes, for : O'er every hearth the erstwhile tossing plume. Had become an emblem of mourners' gloom ; The bells were tolled for Bell's who fell, lentil they resounded from hill to dell ; The clan had answered the beacon call, Rut they had been met with steel and ball ; Their tartan plaids were stained with red, And sire and mother wept over the dead. Lf.st W'f. Forgrt 21 THE FLAG BEARER. The wheels of the mill turned on, hut its ^rindini^- was slow; the oray-haired miller was there, hut his athletic helper was bearino- other grist : l*"or in his stalwart hands, — a glorious deed, — lie bore the symbol of a Xation's pride, -V cross of stars in azure gleaming:. — to lead: For those who saw, gave wild huzza! and cried, A battle cry, and rushed on foe that died. By gleaming- steel or cannon's hail, — a state Thv own, — 1)rave color guard on southern side; Stitzer, no mailed cuirass could fend their hate; Jlravc t]ag-bearer, thv doom was sealed I)\- the hand of fate. CASILE HILL BLUFF r.Ksr Wi-: F()Rr,;-:T 23 THE BOOMING GUNS OF FIRST MANASSAS It .might be said witli truth that ihe booming- of cannon at the l-'irst Manassas, or iUill Run, ann.)unce(l the real war in Virginia. The air currents carried the reverberations to unknown, and at that time marvelous distances from the field of battle. Sometimes they came like heart-throbs, yet slower. A hundred miles woidd bt long and almost imbelievablc distance. Vet with ear attuned to catch the sound, it s ;on became familiar and easily recognizetl. Such an assertion is toilay readily ac- cepted. The guns of Manassas were heard far ;ind wide. ( )ver the mountain they came, a dull thud as the hoofbcat of a horse on the metaled turnpike of the Shenandoah Valley, wiiich for ninety miles from Winchester to Staunton, became the great military highway for the opposing armies. Located nearly in the centre, on the crest of the water shed, and nearly equi-distant from the mountains on either side. As a standard macadamized roadway, maintained in the high- est degree of efiiciency, it was the main artery of a system reach- ing over the AUcghanies to the C )hio River, both down the IVig and Little Kanawha rivers. The stage coach, conveying the mail and passengers, was hurried along by relays of splendid horses. The bugle note of the horn was heard as they approached rela\- station, village postoffice, or terminal town. This pike bore the tratific of war, during the four years, scarce scarred by its usage, and save for burnt bridges it was intact, and remains today a great achievement, almost the last remaining evidence of \'ir- ginia's internal im]^royements, ])rior to that war. 24 Lf.st Wrc Forget THE A^'XLLF.Y PIKE AS A MILITARY ROADWAY. Save here and there rock fences, that extended alongside or at right angles, and built of blue-gray limestone, the \alley pike was fenceless in 1864. No attempt having been made during the last two years to cultivate. The fields lying near were covered with pasturage, when by chance they escaped as camping ground. When any part of this section lay between the lines or within the Federal lines, it became the theatre of a desultory warfare, kept up on the part of the Virginians, by a nucleus of scouts, home on leave, invalids recovering from wounds, or horse details, seeking the easier, if more dangerous method of securing mounts, often the only way for them. The effect of this was to confine the Federal scouting parties to the main roadway, and thereby protecting the outlying farms. Proximity to the mountains enabled these to protect their farm stock, and essential supplies from either armv, by hiding it out from friend as well as from foe. T.Ksr We Forcf.t THE TOWN Ol- NEW ATARKKT. ( )ne of the many picturcs(|uc places on ihis i>reat military hii^h- way of the Shenandoah \ alley was the town of New Market, also famous as a battlefield, which lies well np on the crest of the water shed, and is likewise in the narrowest part of the main valley, separated by the peaked and jMassamitten range of moun- tains from Luray or Page X'alley, which it reaches over a turn- pike road through the New Market Gap of this Massanutten range. A diverging road also swings away to the northwest up Linville's Creek to Harrisonburg some twenty miles. Whilst going northeast, over Rude's Mill and Meem's l^>()ltom, and crossing the north branch of the Shenandoah River at Mount Jackson, after it has received the waters of Smith's Creek, from the foothills of the Massanutten, is the \'alley pike. In "Battles and Leaders of the Qivil W^ar," published by the Century Company of New York, 1884-1888, (ien. John D. Im- boden, of Augusta county, X'irginia, in \'olume No. 4, page 481, in his "The Battle of New Market, May 15, 1864," gives the following description of the Town of New Market, and adjacent country : "In 1864, the village of New Market had a population of about one thousand. Its site is one of the most beautiful in the far- famed Shenandoah X'^alley. The north fork of the Shenandoah River flows behind a range of hills that rise gently to a heighth of ]:)erhaps four hundred feet northwest of the town. "These hills were cleared and in cultivation on their slope facing the town, and at their foot runs the Walley Turnpike, the main street of New Market and the great highway of the Valley during the war. About a mile east and south of the turnpike flows" Smith's Creek a mill-stream at the foot of the rugged Massanutten mountain, which, from Strasburg to near Port Re- public, separates the Luray or Page \\illey from the Shenandoah \'alley for a distance of over forty miles. Luray and New- Market are connected b\' a mud pike which crosses the Massa- nutten mountain through a slight depression or gap four miles from New Market. Imvc miles northeast of New Market the \'alley turnpike crosses the north fork of the Shenandoah, on the boundary of the celebrated "Meem Plantation." Rude's Hill, one mile nearer New Market than the river at the bridge, over- looks the whole of the Meem's bottoms from an elevation of i)er- 26 Lest \Ye Forget liaps from seventy-five or one hundred feet. No place in the great vahey was the scene of more conflicts than the Meem bottoms and Rude's Hill. From this hill to New Market, four miles, the country is undulating, and was cleared and in a high state of cultivation. I'.etween New Market and Smith's Creek, where the road to Luray crosses it, there was in 1864, a body of perhaps one hundred acres or more of woodland, and the town and its outskirts were ornamented bv many orchards.'' "From about the center of the town a deep little valley, or rather ravine, leads to the north fork of the Shenandoah River, and cuts the range of hills back of the town at right angles, the hills being higher on the .southwest side of the ravine, than those on the northeast side. This description of the town and country, is necessary to a clear understanding of the movements on both sides in the battle of May 15, 1864." The Massanutten range beginning with Peaked j\ Fountain near McGaheysville, and terminating its cleavage of the main Shenan- doah \'alley, with Three Top Mountain near Strasburg, here presents a long waving or undulating blue-gray indented line on the horizon. Nearer it presents that which it really is, a barrier to be overcome with difficulty. Darkly wooded, its crests are covered with cliffs and loose-lying rock. Haunt of venemous rattlesnake as well as of catamount. Long time have the wild turkeys reared their young, and found roosting places in the dark-green of its secluded pines. The waters gush from its scars, and near the foothills are found orchards of apples. Higher up were the refugee camps. I.i:sT \Vi-: I'oKci-.r Tiii^ SAiiTirs cri<:I':k school— iS()4-t8()5. in an ancient brand)- dislillcry, rock built, fortress walled; within, gushing- spring of clear cold water ; without, luscious apples on interlocking boughs ; and on the road leading along Smith's Creek, near rugged base of Massanutten an aged edu- cator, renowned through all the \'alley of the Shenandoah, for his erudition, begun by the blazing pine-knot, which the hard lines of his earlier life compelled, was teaching school. ( )n a da\- in October of i8(')4, a student of his, h;id occasion to visit Xew Market, three i-niles away: As the crows that tl)' across the fenceless fieUls, With here and there a group of trees. Whose massive base the canipers" axe defy, He slowly walked towards the gray roadwa\ : That echoed here and there with rythmic ihud. The loping horse of rider blue or gray. Hurrv up, there, and \(iu will see some fm-i, The Vanks in town, called out a soldier gra\'. As thev in dip and bend of slo])ing held. Rode swiftly on towards tlie gra}- roadwa}-. There was no screen to hide the foe from scout. The nioun;ains here lent aid to hnd them out. 28 Lest W'l: Forget FAST ON THE HEELS OF THE HORSEMEN Horse-hiini^y was the youth who walked that day. He lacked a steed to be a soldier brave. j\ly kingdom for a horse, his soul cried out. Ten thousand roached and trimmed on prancing hoof. Had passed that way. On cloth of blue, MacClelland saddle lay. With army coat rolled, strapped on behind: In front, on either side, carbine and colt ; Ih-east girt, with crupper held, and band beneath; With bit to curb, and bridle rein in slack : This war-horse roached and trimmed, on prancing hoof: And thus they rode, each one of Sheridan's men : Ten thousand like him had passed that way. Forging ahead with hurried tread, A youth to fortune and to fame unknown : Fast on the heels of the h(^rsemen. Where orchard lay, he saw the soldiers gray, Still hiding and creeping, were on their way ; But now, they ride with rebel yell. And fire of shot that rattling fell. On weather-boarded house, where Yanks in blue. With foot in stirrup, leg on crupper, fairly fiew ; And they were Sheridan's men. A\"ith waving straw hat and shout, in his little black round-about; Hurrah, for the lone charge of one! A braver deed than that was never done, Ivist on the heels of the horsemen I Lest Wi-: Forget 29 Then came a pause of the soldiers gray, They seemed less eager for the fray ; Something they saw far down the street. Where Yankees were in full retreat ; Cut leader gray would have his way ; They rallied, they rode, to the charge again : The boy in haste to see the fun. Close on the heels of the horsemen. Something they saw in peep muulier two. For back again they came into view ; The man was battle mad v/ho led, For oaths he swore, fierce words he said ; Forward once more, the soldiers gray, Were closely formed and rode to the fray. But whatever they saw far down the street, At last they decided to beat a retreat ; For back they came with pounding lope, Over the hill and down the slope. The boy was caught, too far to retreat. Or to follow the fixing horsemen. A brave cedar tree was standing nearby, Thus supported, he hesitated to fly ; lie waited long for pennon and lance, With throbbing heart, to see the foe advance ; rUit deciding at last that to be found out there, \\'ould be rather a dangerous afifair. He determined to flank, — For that was Jackson's way. P'rom cedar to cedar, who sentinel stood, Until winning at last the big gray road. Across its vista he swung with a bound. And down back street, to Linville road in town. With bated breath and steady pace. He turned on the foe a guileless face, Ris'ht on the heels of the horsemen. 30 Lest We Forget For at the Linville road the soldiers blue, And thus guarding their flank had rallied too, And those brave videttes, in stirrup steady, With carbine poised on knee at ready ; With beady eyes a-leering, Into windows they were peering. Which way. they asked the boy they passed ? Answered the boy with wave of hand, out yonder ! Close on the heels of the horsemen blue. There came a regiment of infantry too; From curb to curb in platoon formation. They were marching on with great elation. Say there, Johnnie, What's the name of this town? New Market! "Faith, and we'll make it Old Market!" A son of Erin, cried. The horsemen gray, had gone their way. And may have been some of Mosby's men, Alert on the trail of Sheridan's men. Richly harnessed with housen of leather, And some with nodding plumes of feather ; Both horse and mule were hurrying along. Urged by driver with whip and song; Behind them with traces taut, the loaded wain, Six hundred, bowed and sheeted, in a train, Carrying food to Sheridan's men, Fast on the heels of the horsemen. Lest We Forget 31 Bayonet Charge of Virginia Military Cadets Battle of New Market, May 15, 1864 In early sprinj^-, — the fifteenth of May, Some braver boys. — had charg'ed from orchard way. \\ ho, to till a bloody wound in line formation. And with not a tremor of disturbed elation; Dressed to right, anfj on left, — marked time with rylhmic grace, — While belching- cannon spurted cinder in their face. As on parade, with steel and ball, they fought their way, I'o the smoke-wreathed top, where grim X'apoleon's la}'; \\ ith bayonet charge and battle yell, they won the crest. With gleaming' sword, they pierced the haughty foeman's breast. While express and laurel enshrine their fame, Mxrtle and rosemary hallow their name: Those W AT. I. Cadets. Lest- We Forget 33 The Vandalism of Sheridan's Army, October, November 1864. On November 18, 1864, the Staunton Vindicator, of Augusta county, Virginia, printed a report of Rockingham county's looses taken from the Rockingham Register, of Harrisonburg-, Virginia, as follows : "Rockiugliaiii 's Losses. "The following is a fair and accurate exhibit of the losses inflicted upon this great and noble county of the 'Old Common- wealth,' by the Yankees in their last raid up the Valley. It has been obtained by our County Court, after diligent effort, and the employment of all the means necessary to approximate ac- curacy in such a calculation. "The Court after being called together for the purpose, ap- pointed a Committee of (72) seventy-two persons, consisting of (36) thirty-six citizens of respectability and standing, located in every section of the County, and after a careful and accurate canvass of the County, they have furnished the estimate of the losses hereto appended. Has any other one County in the Con- federacy suffered to the same extent? Look at the exhilMt: Dwelling houses burned 30 Barns burned 450 Mills burned 31 Fencing destroyed in miles 100 Bushels of wheat destroyed 100,000 Bushels of corn destroyed 50,000 Tons of hay destroyed 6.232 Cattle carried oft" i ,75° Horses carried off i ,750 Sheep carried oft' 4,200 Hogs carried off 3"350 Factories burned 3 Furnace burned i "In addition to which, there was an immense amount of farm- ing utensils of every description destroyed, many of them of great value, such as McCormick reapers and threshing machines; also household and kitchen furniture, money, bonds, plates. &c. The whole loss being estimated at the enormous sum of twenty- five million, five hundred thousand dollars ($25,500,000.00). This estimate is in Confederate prices, and should be reduced, we think, about one-fifth in order to bring it to the (lOvornmonl Standard." 34 Lest Wk FoKGi-yr (irii. Jiibal .1. Early says: "While Sheridan's forces were near 1 larrisonl)uro-, and mine were watchinj;- them, three of onr cavalry scouts, in their uni- forms and with arms, got around his lines near a little town called Dayton, and encountered Lieutenant Meigs, a Federal engineer officer, with two soldiers. These parties came upon each other suddenly, and Lieutenant Meigs was ordered to sur- render hy one of the scouts, to which he replied by shooting and wounding one of the scouts, who in turn fired and killed the Lieutenant. For this act Sheridan ordered the town of Dayton to be burned, but for some reason that order was countermanded, and another substituted for burning a large number of private houses in the neighborhood, which was executed, thus inflicting on non-combatants and women and children a most wanton and cruel punishment for a justifiable act of war." Gen. Wesley Merritt, says: "On August 1 6. 1864. Sheridan's Cavalry. Custer's Brigade, retreated from Cedar Creek to Berryville. driving all the cattle and livestock, and burning the grain in field or stocks, — no other property was injured, nor were private families molested. "When the army commenced its return march, the army was deployed across the valley, burning or destroying, or taking away everything of value, or likely to become of value, to the enemy. "The Valley from Staunton to Winchester, was completely devastated and the armies thereafter occupying that country, had to look elsewhere for supplies." Gen. Early says: "The Yankees retired from Harrisonburg during the night of October 5. 1864, and that he arrived at New AL'vrket on October 7, 1864. ' "That Rosser pushed forward on the back and middle roads in pursuit of the enemy's cavalry, which was engaged in burning houses, mills, barns, and stacks of wheat and hay, and had several skirmishes with them. "( )n the ear the torch and the sword to the proud tyrant's lair. Let the wild battle shout drown the wave of despair ! Despair, while the old man can flourish his stafif. Despair, while the boy at the invader can laugh: Despair, while our wives and daughters kneel in prayer. And our mothers scream out, — don't despair, — don't despair! Go preach to the rock on the lone ocean's shore, And tell it to battle the billow no more ; While there's life there is hope, for the death blow prepare. It is glorious to battle, it is base to despair! ■■-,*;f.S:--^...