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THE 
 
 HOUSI-KIEPIR'!! GUIDi 
 
 AND EVERYBODY'S 
 
 H:A.]NriJ-BOOK:: 
 
 CONTAINING OVER 
 
 NEW AND VALUABLE 
 
 H E C. I I> E S 
 
 IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FAMILY AND TOILET SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDf 
 CfKMENTS, LIQUID SOLDERS FOR MENDING TIN, IRON, AND STEEL, INKS, 
 DYES, DOMESTIC MEDICINES, WINES, CIDER, CORDIALS, VINEGAR, 
 PICKLES, PRESERVES, JELLIES, AND JAMS ; ON THE ART 0? 
 COOKING, AND ALMOST EVERY ART PERTAINING TO HOUSE- 
 KEEPING AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY ; TOGETHER WITH 
 DEPARTMENTS DESIGNED ESPECIALLY FOR FAR- 
 MERS AND MECHANICS, GIVING VALUABLS 
 
 INFORMATION UPON VARIOUS TOPICS 
 - CONNECTED WITH THEIR RESPEC- 
 y^ "^ r ^*^ IXy'E. VOCATIONS. 
 
 BY SMITH & SWINNET, 
 
 CHEMISTS, ETC. 
 
 CINCINNATI, OHIO: 
 
 TENTH EDITION — FIFTY- FIFTH THOUSAND. 
 1871, 
 
/vv 
 
 
 PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 So RAPID hns been the pale of this truly valunble little book, that the 
 first edition of 3.000 copies was hardly out of press before a new one wps 
 railed for to supply the increasing demands coming from every quarter, 
 and a second edition of 12,000, and also a third, of 10,000, are noAv ex- 
 hausted, and a fourth edition of 10,000 more is now demanded. 
 
 It has been thoroughly revised, improved, and considerably enlarged 
 since its first appearance. 
 
 xVlthough the Authors have spent several years in collecting its material 
 fnun various sources, in experimenting upon and improving recipes, and 
 arranging them for publication, it is now gotten up and designed espe- 
 cially for the benefit of Disabled Soldiers and Soldiers' Widows; through 
 whose agen(.'y it is being sold, and to whom we give more than one-half 
 the net profits. 
 
 Its novelty, of combining such a multiplicity of practical recipes, and so 
 much varied and useful information upon nearly all matters pertaining 
 to housekeeping and domestic economy, commends it to all classes and 
 conditions in society. 
 
 In addition to several valuable ones of our own, we have added a large 
 number of new ones, never before made public; for some of which we 
 have paid sums ranging from $10 up to $50, expressly for our book — 
 making it the most valuable collection of family receipts ever compiled in 
 one volume. At least one hundred can be selected from the entire work, 
 any one of which would be wot'th its price to any family; while some of 
 them are worth ten times that amount. 
 
 The Medical Department contains information of the most vital im- 
 portance to every family in the land, while no economical housewife 
 would be without the knowledge embraced in the Culinary Department, 
 after having once been in its possession, for twice the consideration de- 
 manded for the book. 
 
 Its price, compared with that of other publications, may seem high; 
 but when viewed in the light of its intrinsic value, and particularly with 
 reference to the fact that we have given to the public several very import- 
 ant recipes of our own, from which we were manufacturing and selling 
 articles of great value, at large profits, it is not. 
 
 The pages are large and the type small ; and being solidly set, the book 
 contains as much reading matter as is ordinarily included in two or three 
 hundred pages. 
 
 While the directions given in each receipt are suflBciently explicit for 
 the comprehension of all, we have aimed at conciseness and brevity, in 
 order to condense a large amount of information in as small a compass as 
 is possible. 
 
 IJ}' this means we are enabled to put the book to the Soldfer at such a 
 
 Crice as will yield him a large profit, and remunerate him for his trouble; 
 csides, in a measure, compensating him for his past services in behalf of 
 his country. 
 
 THE AUTHORS. 
 
 Liitered accordiug to Act of Congress, in tlie year 1871, by Smith & Swinney, iu the 
 office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 
 
 SOAP AND WASHING KECEIPTS. 
 
 Chemical Soap. — Take 2 pounds sal soda and 1 pound good stone lime 
 (or 2 pounds slacked lime) and boil in 10 quarts of soft water; let it set- 
 tle ; pour off the clear fluid and add 2 pounds of tallow (or its equivalent 
 in soap-grease, \ pound borax and ^ pound of resin, and boil together till 
 the grease is all taken up, then pour into a shallow box, and, when cool, 
 cut into bars. Two hoars' boiling will generally be sufficient. 
 
 If you wish to make soft soap, add water to make it of the desired con- 
 sistency, which can be ascertained by cooling in a saucer while boiling. 
 Owing to the present high price of resin, it may be omitted till it becomes 
 cheaper. 
 
 Again: Common bar soap, cut fine, may be used in place of the tallow 
 or grease, by using double the quantity of water, and omitting the resin. 
 Those who have lye soap already made, can make it go as far again, and 
 wash with half the labor, by adding to each gallon 2 large table spoonfuls 
 of sal soda and 1 of borax, dissolved in a little warm water, then using 
 same as chemical soap. 
 
 Washivg Fluid. — Take 2 pounds of sal soda, 1 pound good stone lime, 
 and 2 J gallons soft water, and bring to a boil , when settled, pour off the 
 clear fluid into a stone jug, and add 1 otmce of hartshorn and 1 ounce 
 of borax, and keep it tightly corked. After boiling the lime and soda, 
 for either the soap or washing-fluid, pour on water the second time ; let 
 it settle, and again pour off for scrubbing, «S:c. 
 
 To Make Soft Soap. — Take 20 pounds of potash and dissolve, in an iron 
 kettle, with 25 gallons of cold soft water, and let it stand three days, if 
 the weather be warm, and five or six, if cool. When all is dissolved, take 
 20 pounds of clear grease, or its equivalent in rough grease, and cleanse 
 it with white lye; then strain it through a tin c( lander or sieve in a soap- 
 barrel, and add the potash lye, carefully drained from the sediment; 
 then pour on a few gallons of water, so as to obtain all the strength from 
 the potash, and pour oft' again, after it has settled, into the barrel. This 
 makes a superior article of soap — of which an}' housewife may be proud. 
 
 Directiona for Washing. — Soak your white clothes one half hour in the 
 morning, (or, if very dirty, over night,) in a tub of lukewarm water, 
 with 1 pint of the soap dissolved in it: suds them out, wring and soap 
 wristbands, collars, and dirty or stained places. Now have your boiler 
 half filled with soft water just beginning to boil, then put in 1 common 
 teacup full of the washing fluid, stir it up and put in your clothes, and 
 boil for thirty minutes; now suds them out, rubbing on your hand a lit- 
 tle any place where there may be any dirt left; rinse, and all is done. 
 This plan requires no wash-board for white clothes, saves one-half the 
 soap, and more than one-half the labor, and docs not injure the clothes, 
 
 3 
 
4 TIIK HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 
 
 I^ome prefer lightly rubbing on the board, but in cither case, it sjvvca 
 Inorc than one-half tlif wear and tear. Thoromhlt^ rinRe ibem. 
 
 Directions for Wasliing Calicoes. — Calico clothes, before they are put 
 in water, should have the grease spots rubbed out, as they cannot be seen 
 when tlic whole of the garment is wet. They should never he washed 
 in very hot soap suds; that which is mildly warm will cleanse them quite 
 ns well, and will not extract the colors so much. Soft soap should never 
 he used for calicoes, excepting for the various shades of yellow, which 
 look the best washed with soft soap, and not rinsed in fair water. Other 
 colors should be rinsed in fair water, and dried in tlie shade. When 
 calicoes incline to fade, the colors can be set by washing them in luke- 
 warm water, with beef's gall, in the proportion of a tea-cupful to four or 
 five gallons water. Kinsc thoni in fair water; no soap is necassary, un- 
 less the clothes are very dirty. If so, wash them in lukewarm suds, after 
 they have been first rubbed out in beefs gall Avater. The beefs gall can 
 be kept several months, by squeezing it out of the skin in which it 13 
 inclosed, adding salt to it, and bottled and corked tight. A little vinegar 
 in the rinsing water of pink, red, and green calicoes, is good to brighten 
 the colors, and keep them from mixing. 
 
 Directions for Wosfiing Woolens. — If you do not wish to have white 
 flannels shrink when washed, make a good suds of hard soap, and wash 
 the flannels in it, without rubbing any soap on them; rub them out in 
 another suds, then wring them out of it, and put them in a clean tub, 
 and turn on sufiicient boiling water to cover them, and let them remain 
 till the water is cold. A little indigo in the boiling water makes the 
 flannels look nicer. If you wish to have your white flannels shrink, so 
 as to have them thick, wash them in soft soap suds, and rinse them in 
 cold water. Colored woolens that incline to fade, should be washed with 
 beefs gall and warm water, before they are put into soap-suds. Colored 
 pantaloons look ver^- well washed with beefs gall and fair warm water, 
 and pressed on the wrong side while damp. 
 
 Directions for Washing White Cotton C/o//<.— Table cloths, or any white 
 clothes that have cotlee or fruit stains on them, before being put into soap- 
 suds, should have boiling water turned on them, and remain in it until 
 the water is cold; the spots should be then rubbed out in it. If they are 
 put into soap-suds with the stains in, the}' will be set by it. so that no sub- 
 sequent w^ashing will remove them. Table-cloths will be less likely to 
 get stained up, if they are always rinsed in thin starch-water, as it tends 
 to keep coftee and fruit from sinking into the texture of the cloth. "White 
 clothes that are very dirty, will ccme clean easily if put into strong cool 
 suds, and hung on the fire the night previous to the day on which they 
 are to be washed. If they get to boiling, it will not do them any harm, 
 provided the suds is cool when they are put in ; if it is hot at first, it will 
 set the dirt in. 
 
 The following method of washing clothes is a saving of a great deal of 
 labor: Soak the clothes in lukewarm soap suds; if they are quite dirty, 
 soak them over night. To every three pails of water, put a pint of soft 
 soap, and a table-spoonful of tl>e salts of soda. Heat it till it mildly warm, 
 then put in the clothes without any rubbing, and boil them an hour. 
 Drain the suds out of them as much as possible, as it is bad for the hands; 
 then add water until cool enough for the hands. The dirt will be loose, 
 so that they will require but little rubbing. Kinse them thoroughly in 
 clear water, then in indi^o-w-ater. The soda can be procured cheap, by 
 purchasing tt in large quantities. Soda is an excellent thin^ to softet 
 hard v/ater The soda suds will not do to wash calicoes in. It is a gooc 
 
THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 5 
 
 plan to ?ave your suds, after washing, to water your garden, if you have 
 one, or to harden cellars and j^ards whfn they are sandy. 
 
 Directions for Cleansing Silk Goods. — -When silk cushions, or silk cover- 
 ings to furniture, become dingy, rub dry bran on them gently with a 
 woolen cloth till clean. Kemove the grease spots and stains. Silk gar- 
 ments should have the spots extracted before being washed. Uss hard 
 soap for all colors but yellow, for w^hich soft soap is the best. Put the 
 Boap into hot water, beat it till it is perfectly dissolved, then add suffi- 
 cient cold water to make it just lukewarm. Put in the silks, and rub 
 them in it till clean ; take them out without wringing, and rinse thero in 
 fair lukewarm water. Rinse it in another water; and for bright yellows, 
 crimsons and maroons, add sulphuric acid enough to the water to give 
 it an acid taste before rinsing the garment in it. To restore the colors 
 of the different shades of pink, put in the second rinsing water a little 
 vinegar or lemon-juice; for scarlet, use a solution of tin; for blues, pur- 
 ples, and other shades, use pearlash ; and for olive greens, dissolve verdi- 
 gris in the rinsing water; fawns and browns should be rinsed in pure 
 water. Dip the silks up and down in the rinsing water; take them out 
 of it without wringing, and dry them in the shade. Fold them up while 
 damp; let them remain to have the dampness strike through all parts 
 of them alike, then put them in a mangier; if you have not one, iron 
 them on the wrong side with an iron just hot enough to smooth them. 
 A little isinglass or gum arable dissolved in the rinsing water of gauze 
 shawls and ribbons, is good to stiffen them. The water in which pared 
 potatoes have been boiled, is an excellent thing to wash black silks in; 
 it stiffens and makes them glossy and black. Beef's gall in lukewarm 
 water is also a nice thing to restore rusty silk, and soap-suds answers very 
 well. They look better not to be rinsed in clear water, but they should 
 be washed in two different waters. 
 
 No person should ever wring or crush a piece of silk when it is wet, 
 because the creases thus made will remain forever, if the silk is thick and 
 hard. The way to wash silk is to spread it smoothly upon a clean board, 
 rub white soap upon it, and brush it with a clean hard brush. The silk 
 must be rubbed until all the grease is extracted, then the soap should be 
 brushed off with clean cold water, and applied to both sides. The 
 cleansing of silk is a very nice operation. Most of the colors are liable to 
 be extracted with washing in hot suds, especially blue and green colors. 
 A little alum dissolved in the last water that is brushed on the silk, tends 
 to prevent the colors from running. Alcohol and camphene mixed to- 
 gether is used for removing grease from silk. 
 
 Franhliji Soap. — 1 pound common bar soap, 1 pint alcohol, 15 drops 
 citron elles, or other perfume, h ounce spirits of hartshorn. Have 3^our soap 
 cut very lino, put all the materials in a clean iron kettle, and stir it slowly 
 till alTis dissolved. Let it just come to a boil, and then take it up in 
 molds or bars, 
 
 W/ilte Bar Soap. — Take 8 quarts water, 4 pounds common bar soap, h 
 pound sal soda, 2 ounces alcohol, 2 ounces saltpeter, 1 ounce borax. Put" 
 all into an iron kettle, stir till dissolved, then boil for ten minutes. 
 
 Almond Soap. — Take 1 pound of quick lime and pour on 3 quarts of 
 boiling distilled water; add 1 pound of salt of tartar dissolved in 1 quart 
 of water; cover the vessel, and when cold, filter through a cotton cloth; 
 a pint should weigh exactly 16 ounces Troy; if more, add distilled water; 
 if less, evaporate. Then add one-third of oil of almonds, simmer them 
 together for some hours, or until the oil forms a jelly; when cool, whieh 
 may be tried by a small quantity, add common salt, then continue boiling 
 
9 THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 
 
 till the soap is solid ; when cold, gkim off the water, and then pour into 
 molds. 
 
 Ti-ansparent Soap. — Transparent soap is made by dissolving hard soap 
 in alcohol, then dr^'ing. Most all toilet soaps are made bj dissolving com- 
 mon hard soap with the essential oils of lavender, bergamot, rosemary, 
 &c. 
 
 Writing Fluid. — Take 1 pound nutgalls, bruised, half a pound of log- 
 wood chips, and boil in 12 quarts soft water till evaporated to 8 quart*. 
 Let it settle, then strain through a hair sieve, and add half a pound of 
 |;Teen sulphate of iron, and 2 ounces sulphate of copper, dissolved in a 
 little hot water, 1 ounce crystalized sugar, and 3 ounces powuered gum 
 arabic, or half a pound of gum Senegal dissolved in a little hot water. 
 Let it stand exposed to the air for 24 hours, then bottle. This Ink can 
 be depended upon for deeds and records. 
 
 A cheap Ink, easily made, and good enough for family purposes, is 
 made as follows: Bring 1 gallon soft water to a boil, and put in three- 
 fourth ounce extract logwood, and boil two or three minutes ; then re- 
 move from the fire and stir in 48 grains powdered gum arabic, 8 grains 
 prussiate of potash, and 48 grains bi-chromate of potash. This ink can be 
 made at a cost of five or ten cents for a single gallon, and as it does not 
 spoil by freezing, it is best for school children. 
 
 A lump of salt, size of a hazel-nut, dissolved in each quart of ink, will 
 effectually keep it from molding; or 5 drops of kreosoto added to each 
 pint, will have the same effect. 
 
 Indelible Ink. — Nitrate of silver, 1 drachm ; rain water, 5 fluid drachms; 
 mucilage gum arabic (fresh) one drachm; dissolve the nitrate of silver 
 in the rain water, then add the mucilage. For the preparation, add to 
 eacii ounce of the mucilage five grains of baking soda. Paste a piece of 
 dark paper all over the bottle, and keep in a dark place. 
 
 Red Ink. — Take a half ounce viol, and put in a tea-spoonful of aqua 
 ammonia; gum arabic, size of two or three peas, and five grains of good 
 carmine; fill up with soft water, and it is soon ready for use. 
 
 CEMENTS AND SOLDERS. 
 
 Ckm^tUfor Olass, China, Wood, Leather, ^'c. — Take \ pound white glue, 1 
 ounce white lead, dry, and ^ pint soft water; put these in a tin dish, in- 
 side an iron kettle filled with water, and boil, stirring with a stick till all is 
 dissolved; then add \ pint alcohol, and boil again till well mixed. Put 
 in a bottle, and keep tightly corked. AVhen required for use, set the bot- 
 tle in a dish of water on the stove, and gradually heat till the cement is 
 dissolved and of the consistency of cream ; then apply a thin coating lo 
 one edge, put the parts immediately together, pressing firmly for a few 
 moments, and set the article away a da^' or so to dry. The cement must 
 be quite warm and thin when used; and, in cold weather, slightly warm 
 the article to be mended, enough to take off the chill ; otherwise it will 
 p^et cold before you can get the parts together, and form a thin coating 
 like paper between the joints, in which case it will not stick. In mend- 
 ing wood, and articles that are porous, don't press hard too soon, or you 
 will press all out, except what the pores of the wood will absorb, leaving 
 none to unite the broken surfaces, but press slightly at first, then hard, 
 after a few moments. (For Crockery Cement, see page 80.) 
 
 Liquid Solder for Mending 7hn, Iron, and Steel. — Take \ pound umriatio 
 acid and drop in as many strips of zinc as it will dissolve, and, while 
 boiling, ad4 \ ounce pulverized sal ammoniac. Wet the tin around the 
 
THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 7 
 
 hole to be mended with a drop or two of this fluid— first haying scraped 
 oH the rust, if any ; then lay on a piece of soft solder (tinner's), and hold 
 a candle or lamp underneath till it is melted. If the hole be large, either 
 cover it with a small piece of tin, then a piece of solder large enough to 
 cover all when melted, or set the dish on a cloth to keep the solder from 
 running through, and then use a hot iron to melt it. 
 
 For mending iron and steel, wet the broken edges to be joined witli 
 this fluid, lay on some pieces of soft solder and melt with a hot poker or 
 other iron ; repeat till both surfaces are coated with solder, then hold the 
 parts in a spirit lamp, firmly pressing, till the solder melts and oozes out 
 of the joint, when they must be held perfectly still till cool. Short arti- 
 cles can be held in the ends of two split sticks while heating. 
 
 Five cents worth of soft solder from the tinner, cut in small {>iecos, 
 will last many years. The waste scraps of zinc can also be had of the 
 tinner. As you drop the strips of zinc into the bottle of acid, the chem- 
 ical action of the two heats it to the boiling point, when the sal ammo- 
 niac is to be added. Keep the acid off your clothes, and from the children. 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 
 Spruce Beer.— Take 3 gallons soft water, 2} pints molasses, 3 eggs, well- 
 beaten, and 1 gill yeast. Mix together equal parts oil sassafras, spruce 
 and wintergreen, and put 50 drops of this mixture into two quarts of the 
 water, boilmg hot, and then put all together and let stand two or three 
 hours, then bottle. For ginger flavor, take 2 ounces of ginger root, 
 bruised, and a small handful of hops, and boil for half an hour in 1 gal- 
 lon of the water, then strain and mix altogether. 
 
 Good Ginger Beer. — Take 2^ ounces ginger, 3 pounds sugar, 1 ounce 
 cream tartar, the juice and peel of two middling-sized lemons, ^ pint good 
 brandy, ^ pint yeast, and 3^ gallons water. Bruise the ginger, and put 
 it and the sugar into the water, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes; 
 slice the lemons, and put them and the cream tartar in a large pan, and 
 pour the boiling liquor on; stir it well, and, when milk- warm, add the 
 yeast; cover it over and let it remain two or three days to work, skim- 
 ming it frequently; then strain it through a jolly-bag into a cask, add 
 the brandy, bung it tight, and at the end of two or three weeks draw it 
 ofl", bottle and cork tight. If it does not work well at first, add a little 
 more yeast, but be careful and not get too much, as it will taste of it. 
 
 Lemon Beer. — Take 3 ounces ginger-root, bruised, 2 ounces cream tar- 
 tar and boil for twenty or thirty minutes in 3 gallons of water. Strain 
 and add 6 pounds coffee sugar on which you have put ^ ounce oil of 
 lemon, or |- ounce and three lemons all mashed up together, and add 7 
 gallons more water nearly milk-warm, then put in | pint of hop or brew- 
 ers yeast, made into a paste, with 3 ounces flour. Let it work one night, 
 and then bottle for use. 
 
 lioijal Diamond Sirup. — Take 1 gallon water, 6 pounds loaf-sugar, 6 
 ounces tartaric acid, and 1 ounce gum arable in another vessel. Beat up 
 four tea-spoonfuls of flour, and the whites of four eggs, and add h pint 
 of water in another vessel : when that in the first vessel is blood-warm, 
 put in the contents of the other vessel, and let it stand three minutes. 
 
 To Use It — Take two or three table-spoonfuls of the sirup to a glass 
 one-half or two-thirds full of water, and stir in ^ tea-spoonful of pulver- 
 ized super-carbonate of soda. This is a cheap and delicious beverHgo, 
 much better and healthier than soda water; easily made, and can be kept 
 any length of time without deteriorating. Keep in a glass vessel, ai 
 metal of any kind would spoil it. 
 
8 Tilt irOCSE-KEEPiiR S GUfDE. 
 
 Portable Lnuonade. — Tartnric noid, ^ ounce, loaf sugar, 3 ounces, essence 
 of lemon, ^ drachm. Powder the tartaric acid and the sugar very lino 
 in a porcelain mortar, mix them together, and pour on the essence of 
 l^inon by a few drops at a time, stirring the mixture after each addition 
 till the whole is added, then mix thoroughly and divide into twelve equal 
 juiits, wrapping each up separately in white paper. When wanted for 
 use, di;fsolve in a tumbler of cold water, and you will have good lemon- 
 ade. Convenient for persons traveling, where they cannot procure drinks 
 iiuitable to taste. 
 
 WINES, COKDIALS, AND OTHER LIQUOPwS. 
 
 Red Currcmt Wine.—TuVQ cold soft water, 11 gallons; red currants, 8 
 gallons ; raspberries, from 1 to 3 quarts. Ferment and strain. Mix raw 
 ^ugar, 20 pounds; beet root, sliced, 2 pounds; and red tartar, in fine pow- 
 der, 3 ounces. Put in one nutmeg, in fine powder, and add 1 gallon 
 brandy. This will make 18 gallons. 
 
 White Currant Whie. — Take cold soft water, 9 gallons; white currants, 
 
 9 gallons. Eerment and strain. Mix refined sugar, 25 pounds; white 
 tartar, in powder, 1 ounce; clary seed, bruised, 2 ounces, or clary flowers, 
 or sorrel flowers, 4 luuidfuls, then add white brandy, 1 gallon. This will 
 make 18 gallons. 
 
 Black Currant ir/ne.— Cold soft water, 10 gallons; black currants, 6 
 gallons; strawberries, 3 gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 
 25 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, G ounces; orange thyme, 2 hauds- 
 ful; then add brandy 2 or 3 quarts. This will make 18 gallons. 
 
 Strawberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 7 gallons ; cider, 6 gallons ; 
 strawberries, 6 gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 16 pounds ; 
 red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; the peel and juice of 2 lemons; then 
 add brands^, 2 or 3 quarts. 
 
 Raspberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 6 gallons; cider, 4 gallons; 
 raspberries, 6 gallons. Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 18 or 20 
 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; orange and lemon peel, 2 
 ounces dry, or 4 ounces fresh. Then add 3 quarts brandy. This will 
 make 18 gallons. 
 
 Elderberry Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 16 gallons; Malaga raisins, 
 50 pounds ; elderberries, 4 gallons ; red tartar, in fine powder, 4 ounces. 
 Mix ginger, in powder, 5 ounces; cinnamon, cloves, and mace, of each 2 
 ounces; peel and juice of 3 oranges or lemons. Then add 1 gallon of 
 brandy. This will make 18 gallons. 
 
 Gooseberr-y Wine. — Take of cold soft water, 3 gallons , gooseberries, 3^ 
 gallons. Ferment and strain. Now mix raw sugar, 5 pounds; honey, l| 
 jtounds; tartar, in fine powder, 1 ounce. Afterward put in bitter almond:- 
 2 ounces; sweetbriar, 1 small handful, and brandy 1 gallon or less. 
 
 Cowj)oii7id Wine. — An excellent fan)i!y wine may be made of equal parts 
 of red, white, and black currants, ripe cherries and raspberries, well bruised 
 and mixed with soft water, in the proportion of 4 pounds of fruit to one 
 gallon of water. AVhon straiiied and pressed, 3 pounds of moist sugar 
 are to be added to each gallon of the liquid. After straining, open for 
 three days, during which it is to be stirred frequently; it is to be put in 
 a barrel, and left for two weeks to work, when a ninth part of brandy is 
 to be added, and the whole bunged down. In a few mouths it will be a 
 most excellent wine, iiiferior to none. 
 
 Blackberry Wine. — Having procured berries that are fully ripe, put 
 them into a large vessel of wood or stoue, with a cock in it, and pour 
 
THE IIOUSE-KEEPER's GUIDE. 9 
 
 «pon them ns much boiling water ns will cover them. As soon as tho 
 heat will permit the hand to he put into the vessel, bruise them well till 
 all the berries are broken. Then let them stand covered till the berries 
 begin to rise toward the top, which tbey generally do in three or four 
 days. Then draw oft' the clear into another vessel, and add to every ten 
 quarts of this liquor 1 pound of sugar. Stir it well, and let it stand to 
 work a week or ten days, in another vessel. Take 4 ounces of isinglass, 
 and lay it to steep twelVe ho;irs in a pint of white wine. The next morn- 
 ing boil it upon a slow fire till it is all dissolved. Then take a gallon of 
 blackberry juice, put in the dissolved isinglass, give them a boil together, 
 and pour all into the vessel. Let it stand a few days to purge and settle, 
 then draw it off, and keep in a cool place. 
 
 Another Method. — Take ripe blackberries, press the juice from them, 
 let it stand thirty-six hours to ferment (lightly covered,) and skim off 
 whatever rises to the top; then to e\^vy gatlon of the juice add 1 quart 
 of water and 3 pounds of sugar, (brown will do,) let it stand in an open 
 vessel for twenty-four hours; skim and strain it, then barrel it. Let it 
 stand eight or nine hours, when it should be racked off, bottled, and corked 
 close. It improves by age. 
 
 Rhubarb ]Vme.—YQQ\\ndi slice the stalk of the leaf, as for pies : put a 
 very small quantity of water m the vessel, only just enough to cover the 
 bottom; cover the vessel, and gradually bring to a very slight boil ; then 
 strain, passing all the liquid; to this 'liquid add an equal quantity of 
 water; to each gallon (after mixed,) add 4 to 5 pounds of brown sugar; 
 fet aside, ferment and skim like currant wine; leave in the cask and in 
 bulk as long as possible before using. All wine is best kept in casks. 
 
 Another.— Take of sliced rhubarb, 2,^ ounces; lesser cardamon seeds, 
 bruised and husked, \ ounce; saffron, 2''drachms; Spanish white wine, 2 
 pints; prt;of spirit, ^'pint. Digest for ten days, and strain. This is a 
 warm cordial, laxative medicine, good in weakness of the stomach and 
 l)owels, and for regulating and strengthening the whole viscera. 
 
 Damson IRne.— Cold soft water, h gallons; damson pkmis, 8 gallons. 
 Ferment. Mix raw sugar, 30 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, .6 
 ounces; brand\', 1 gallon. 
 
 Cherry Wine. — Cold soft water, 10 gallons; cherries, 10 gallons. Fer- 
 ment. Mix raw sugar, 30 pounds; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 ounces; 
 brandy, two or three quarts. Two days after the cherries have been in 
 the vat, take out about 3 quarts, break the stones and return them to the 
 Vat again. 
 
 Peach irme.— Cold soft water, 18 gallons; refined sugar, 25 pounds; 
 honey, 6 pounds; white tartar, in fine powder, 2 ounces; peaches, 60 or 
 80 in number. Ferment. Then add 2 gallons brandy. Put all together 
 in the vat, except the peaches and brandy, and let remain one day ; then 
 break the peach-kernels and put them into the vat, and ferment; then add 
 the brandv afterward. 
 
 Apricot ]Vi7ie.—Bo\\ together 3 pounds of sugar and 3 quarts of water, 
 and skim it well. Put in 6 pounds of apricots, pared and stoned, and let 
 them boil till they become tender. Then take them up, and when the 
 liquor is cold, bottle it. After taking out Uie apricots, let the liquor be 
 boiled with a sprig of flowered clary. The apricots will make marmalade, 
 and be verv good for present use. 
 
 Apple Wine.— To every gallon of apple juice, immediately as it comes 
 from the press, add 2 pounds loaf sugar; boil it as long as any scum rises, 
 then strain it through a sieve, and let it cool; let it work in the tub for 
 two or three weeks, or till the head begins to flatten, then skim off tho 
 
10 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 bond, draw it clear off and turn it. "When made a year, rack it off, and 
 fine it with isinglass ; then add ^ pint of the best rectified spirit of wine, 
 or 1 pint of French brandy to every 8 gallons. 
 
 Grope Wine. — Cold soft water, 5 gallons ; black or red grapes, 40 pounds. 
 Ferment and strain. Mix cider, gallons; raw sugar, 20 pounds; bar- 
 berry leaves, 3 handfuls; beet root, sliced, 2 pounds; red tartar, in fine 
 powder, 4 ounces. Add white elder flowers, 6 handfuls ; or sassafras chips, 
 4 pounds; brandy, 1 gallon. This will make 18 gallons. 
 
 Another. — Cold soft water, 6 gallons; any kind of grapes, 30 pounds. 
 Ferment and strain. Mix treacle, 10 pounds; beet root, sliced, 1^ pounds; 
 red tartar, in powder, 2 ounces; rosemary leaves, 2 handfuls; brandy, ^ 
 gallon. This will make 9 gallons. 
 
 Another. — Cold soft water, 8 gallons; grapes of any sort, 100 pounds. 
 Ferment and strain. Mix raw sugar, 20 pounds ; beet root, sliced, 4 
 pounds; barberry leaves, 4 handfuls; red tartar, in fine powder, 6 ounces. 
 Add coriander seed, bruised, 2 ounces; brandy, 6 quarts. This will make 
 18 gallons. 
 
 Q-inger Wine. — Put into a nice boiler 10 gallons water; 15 pounds of 
 lump sugar, with the whites of 6 or 8 eggs, well beaten and strained ; 
 mix all well while cold. When the liquor boils, skim it well; put in ^ 
 pound ginger root, bruised, a«d boil it twenty minutes. Have ready the 
 rinds (cut very thin,) of 7 lemons, and pour the hot liquor on them. 
 When cool, put it into your cask, with two spoonfuls of yeast; put a quart 
 of the warm liquor to 2 ounces of isinglass shavings; whisk it well three 
 or four times, and put all into the barrel, with 1 or 2 gallons good brandy, 
 or pure spirits. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bottle it, and in 
 three months it will be a delicious, safe beverage. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON CIDEK AND WINES. 
 
 To make good cider, the following general, but important rules should 
 be attended to. They demand a little more trouble than the ordinary 
 mode of collecting and mashing apples of all sorts, rotten and sound, 
 sweet and sour, dirty and clean, from the tree and the ground, and the 
 rest of the slovenly process usually employed : 1. Always choose perfectly 
 ripe and sound fruit. 2. Pick the apples' by hand. An active boy, with 
 a bag slung over his shoulders, will soon clear a tree. Apples that have 
 laid ^nj time on the soil contract an earthy taste, which will always bo 
 found in the cider. 3. After sweating, and before ground, wipe them 
 dry, and if any are found bruised and rotten, put them in a heap by 
 themselves, for an inferior cider to make vinegar. 4. Always use hair 
 cloths, instead of straw, to place between the layers of pummage. The 
 straw, when heated, gives a disagreeable taste to the cider. 5. As the 
 cider runs from the press, let it pass through a hair sieve, into a large 
 open vessel, that will hold as much juice as can be expressed in one day. 
 In a daj', or sometimes less, the pummice will rise to the top, and in a 
 short time grow very thick ; when little white bubbles break through it, 
 draw off the liquor by a spiggot, placed about three inches from the bot- 
 tom, so that the lees may be left quietly behind. 6. The cider must be 
 drawn off into very clean, sweet casks, and closely watched. The moment 
 the white bubbles before mentioned are perceived rising to the bunghole, 
 rack it again. When the fermentation is completely at an end, fill up 
 the cask with cider in all respects like that contained in it, and bung it 
 up tight, previous to which a tumbler of sweet oil may be poured into 
 the bung-hole. 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE, 11 
 
 When cider has fermented for about one week in a cask, add half a 
 pound of white ?uy;ar to every gallon; then allow it to ferment further 
 until it has acquired a brisk and pleasant taste. An ounce t)f the sulphite, 
 of lime is then added to every gallon of cider in the cask, and the whole 
 agitated for a few minute*, and then left to settle. The sulphite of linio 
 arrests the fermentation, and, in the course of a few days, the clear cider 
 ma}^ be poured off and bottled, when it will retain the same taste that it 
 hacl wtien the sulphite was added. About an ounce of the sulphite of 
 lime added to a gallon of cider, in any stage of fermentation, will pre- 
 serve it from further change. A sparkling cider wine is produced by the 
 mode described. 
 
 The following is another method of making cider wine: Take pure cider, 
 as it runs from the press, and add a pound of brown sugar to every quart, 
 and put it into a clean cask, which should be filled to within about 
 two gallons of the top. The cask, is then placed in a moderately cool 
 cellar or apartment, and the cider allowed to ferment slowly, by the bung- 
 hole being left open till it has acquired the proper taste and sparkles, when 
 a small quantity is drawn. The cask is then bunged up tight. 
 
 Grape wine should be allowed to remain for a long period in oak casks, 
 after it is made, before it is bottled, otherwise it will be comparatively 
 sour to the taste. This is owing to the great quantity of the tartrate of 
 potash in the juice of the grape. When standing in a wooden cask, the 
 tartrate is deposited from the wine, and adheres to the interior surfaces 
 of the vessel, and it forms a thick and hard stony crust called "argol." 
 This is the substance of which our cream-of-tartar and tartaric acid are 
 made. In its crude state it is employed by silk and woolen dyers in pro- 
 ducing scarlet, purple, and claret colors, in conjunction with cochineal and 
 logwood. This explains the cause of wines becoming sweeter the longer 
 thoy stand in casks in a cool situation. 
 
 Wines may be made of the juice of the sorghum-cane, by permitting it 
 to ferment for a short period in the same manner as has been described 
 for cider, then closing up the cask tight, to prevent access of air. The 
 fermentation of all saccharine juices is due to the combination, chemi- 
 cally, of the oxj'gen of the air with some of the carbon in the sugar of the 
 juice. A small quantity of alcohol is thus generated and absorbed by the 
 fermented juice. Carbonic acid gas is also generated; when absorbed by 
 the liquid and retained under })ressure, this gas imparts the sparkling 
 pruperty of wine. AVhen the saccharine juices are undergoing fermenta- 
 tion they must be tasted frequently, for the purpose of arresting the fer- 
 mentation at the proper stage, because there are two stages of fermenta- 
 tion, called the vinous and acetous. The first is that in which alcohol is 
 produced ; the second, vinegar. Many artificial wines have a slight vinegar 
 taste, which is caused by allowing the fermentation to proceed too far. 
 
 These hints will be useful to those who prepare light domestic wines 
 These are now made very generally, and are held to exert a favorable 
 influence in many cases of dyspep>sia. 
 
 Port Wine. — Good worked cider, 20 gallons; good port wine, 5 gallons; 
 good foreign brandy, one and a half gallons; proof spirits, 3 gallons. 
 When all are mixed, color with elderberries, aloes, or burnt sugar. 
 
 Peppermint Cordial. — Take 1 gallon proof spirits ; 1 pound of loaf sugar ; 
 a little more than 1 pennyweight, Troy, of oil of peppermint, and one 
 half gallon of water. 
 
 Blackberry Cordial. — To 1 quart of blackberry juice, add 1 pound of 
 white sugar, 1 table-spoonful of cloves, 1 of allspice, 1 of cinnamon, and 1 
 of nutm**«;f. Boil all together fifteen minutes ; add a wtne-glass of whisky, 
 
12 THE HOUSE- KEEPER S GUIDE. 
 
 brandy, or rum. Bottle wJiile hot, cork tight and seal. This is almost a 
 specific in diarrhea. One dose of a wine-glassful for an adult — half that 
 quantity for a child — will often cure diarrhea. It can be taken three or 
 four times a day, if the case is severe. 
 
 LIQUORS. 
 
 As nearly all the liquors now used, especially those of a cheap grade, 
 are manufactured from whisky and poisonous compounds, those who deal 
 in such articles, especially druggists, should make their own. according to 
 llie following recipes : 
 
 B)-a7u/i/.—Tnke pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons ; best of French brandy, 
 1 gallon ; loaf sugar, half a pound : sweet spirits of niter, 2 ounces. Color 
 with burnt sugar. 
 
 Gin. — Pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons; Holland gin, 1 gallon; oil of juni- 
 per, 8 scruples; oil of anise, 1-10 ounce. 
 
 Rum. — Pure cologne spirits, 4 gallons, good Jamaica or St. Croix rum, 1 
 gallon; oil of caraway, 1-16 ounce. 
 
 These liquors are pure, and much better than those you buy ready 
 manufactured — nine-tenths of which are made from bad whisky and nox- 
 ious drugs. Those who are able, had better buy the pure foreign article 
 from responsible parties; but at the present prices (from $8 to $12 per 
 gallon) few are able to obtain it even for medicinal purposes ; besides, in 
 most cases of sickness, that manufactured according to the above, answers 
 every purpose. The coloring matter is made as follows: Take any quan- 
 tity of white sugar and mix with water till about the consistency of a thin 
 mush; now put in an iron kettle or spider, and burn over a hot stove till 
 it becomes of a deep-red black color, quite thick, and smells strongly from 
 the burning. Add a little warm water, to prevent its hardening, and use 
 this to color all kinds of liquors requiring any. 
 
 Cherry Bounce. — Take 1 ban-el pure spirits, and put in from one-half to 
 one bushel black (wild) cherries, and 6 or 8 pounds loaf sugar. You can 
 reduce the strength by adding pure well, rain, or distilled water. 
 
 Black ('licrry Brandy. — Stone 8 pounds of black cherries aiid put on them 
 1 gallon of brandy; now bruise the stones in a mortar, and then add them 
 to the brandy ; cover them close, and let them stand from four to six 
 weeks; then pour it clear from the sediment and bottle. Morella cher- 
 ries, managed in this wa}^ make a fine, rich cordial. 
 
 Raspberry Brandy. — Take 1 gallon brandy, and I gallon water, and put 
 into a stone jug, jar, or demijohn, and then add 1 gallon raspberries, and 
 1 pound of loaf sugar, and let it remain for a week closely covered ; then 
 take a piece of flannel^ with a piece of Holland over it, and let it run 
 through gi-adually. It may be racked into other bottles in a week after, 
 and then it will be fine. Blackberry brandy may be made in the same way. 
 
 Vinegar. — 1 gallon alcohol, 8 gallons water,! quart molasses, and a dozen 
 white beans, done uj) in a brown paper, to foiiu the mother. Let it stand 
 twu or three weeks in a warm place. This is equal to cider vinegar. 
 
 Another. — To 3 gallons soft water, add 1 quart molasses, 1 pint of yeast, 
 and 1 ounce of cream tartar; lot it stand four weeks in a warm place; 
 then add as much sweetened water each week as you use of the vinegar. 
 Cold tea is excellent to replenish vinegar. 
 
 DYEING. 
 
 To Dye Black. — Allow a pound of logwood to each pound of goods that 
 are to be dyed. Soak it over night in soft water, then boil it an hour, and 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 13 
 
 atrain the water in wl)ich it is boiled. For each pound of logwood, dis- 
 solve an ounce of blue vitriol in lukewarm water, sufficient to wet th« 
 goods. Dip the goods in; when saturated \vith it, turn the whole into tho 
 logwood dye. If the goods are' cotton, set the vessel on the tire, and let 
 the gcods boil ten or fifteen minutes, stirring them constantly to prevent 
 their spotting. Silk and woolen goods should not be boiled in the dye- 
 stuff, but it should be kept at a scalding heat for twenty minutes. Drain 
 the goods without wringing, and hang them in a dry, shady place, wheio 
 they will have the air. "When dry, set the color, by putting them into scald- 
 ing hot water that has salt in it, in the proportion of a teacupful to three 
 gallons of the water. Let the goods remain in till cold; then hang them 
 in a place where they will dry (they should not be wrung) Boiling hot 
 suds is the best thing to set tho color of black silk; let it remain in it till 
 cold. Soaking black-dyed goods in sour milk is also good to set tho 
 color. 
 
 Green and Blue Dye, for Silks and Woolens. — For green dye, take a pound 
 of oil of vitriol, and turn it upon half an ounce of Spanish indigo, that has 
 been reduced to a fine powder. Stir them well together, then add a lump 
 of pearlash of the size of a pea; as soon as the fermentation ceases, bottlo 
 it; the dye will be fit for use the next day. Chemic blues are made in the 
 same manner, only using half the quantity of vitriol. For woolen goods, 
 the East indigo will answer as well as the Spanish, and comes much lower. 
 This dye will not answer for cotton goods, as the vitriol rots the threads. 
 Wash the articles that are to be dyed till perfectly clean, and free fnmi 
 color. If you can not extract the color by rubbing it in hot suds, boil it 
 out; rinse it in soft water till entirely free from soap, as the soap will 
 ruin the dye. To dye a pale color, put to each- quart of soft warm water, 
 that is to be used for the dye, ten drops of the above composition; jf you 
 wish a deep color, more will be necessary. Put in the articles without 
 crowding, and let them remain in it till of a good color; the dye-stufl' 
 should be kept warm. Take the articles out without wringing; drain as 
 much of the dye out of them as possible, then hang them to dry in a 
 shady, airy place. They should be dyed when the weather is dry; if not 
 dried quickly, they will not look well. When perfectly dry, wash them 
 in lukewarm suds, to keep the vitriol from injuring the texture of tho 
 cloth. If you wish for a lively, bright green, mix a little of the above 
 composition with yellow dye. 
 
 Yellow Dyes. — To dye a butf-color, boil equal parts of arnotto and com- 
 mon potash in soft clear water. When dissolved, take it from the fire ; 
 when cool, put in the goods, which should previously be washed free from 
 spots and color; set them on a moderate fire, where they will keep hot, 
 till the goods are of the shade you wish. To dye salmon and orange-color 
 tie arnotto in a bag, and soak it in warm soft-soap suds till it becomes 
 soft, so that you can squeeze enough of it through the bag to make the 
 suds a deep yellow ; put in the articles, which should be clean, and free 
 from color; boil them till of the shade you wish. There should be enough 
 of the dye to cover the goods ; stir them while boiling, to keep thera from 
 spotting. This dye will make a salmon or orange color, according to 
 the strength of it, and the time the goods remain in it. Drain them 
 out of the dye, and dry them quickly in the shade; when dry, wash them 
 in soft soap suds. Goods dyed in this manner should never be rinsed in 
 clear water. Peach leaves, fustic, and saffron, all make a good straw or 
 lemon color, according to the strength of the dye. They should be steeped 
 in soft fair water, in an earthen or tin vessel, and then strained, and th« 
 dye set with alum, and a little gum Arabic dissolved in the dye, if you 
 
14 TFIE IIOUSE-KEEPEll's GUIDE. 
 
 wish to stiffen the article. "When the dye-stuft* is strained, steep tbft 
 articles in it. 
 
 lied Dyes. — Madder makes a good durable red, but not a brilliant color. 
 To make a dye of it, allow, for half a pound of it, 3 ounces of alum, and 1 
 of cream -of- tar tar, and 6 ii;allons of water. This proportion of int;;r.:>dient3 
 will malce sufficient dye for six or seven pounds of goods. Heat half of 
 the water scalding hoi, in a clean brass kettle; then put in the alum and 
 ci-eam-of-tartar, and let it dissolve. When the water boils, stir the alum 
 and tartar up in it; put in the goods, and let them boil a couple of hcurs; 
 then rinse them in fair water, em})ty tlie kettle, and put in three gallons 
 of water and the madder; rub it tine in the water, then put in the goods, 
 and set them where they v.'ill keep scalding hot for an hour without boil- 
 ing: stir them constantly. When they have been scalding an hour, in- 
 crease the fire till they boil. Let them boil five minutes; then drain them 
 out of the dye, and rinse them, without wringing, in fair water, and hf»ng 
 them in the shade where they will dry. 
 
 SLate-colored Dye. — T-o make a good dark slate-color, boil sugar-lcaf 
 paper with vinegar, in an iron utensil ; put in alum to set the color. Tea 
 grounds, set with copperas, make a good slate-color. To produce a light 
 slate-color, boil white maple bark in clear water, with a little alum; the 
 bark should be boiled in a brass utensil. The dye for slate-color should 
 be strained before the goods are put into it. They should be boiled in it, 
 and then hung where they will drain and dry. 
 
 To Dye a Lively arid Beauiiful Drab. — Light-colored fabrics — cotton, 
 silk, linen, or wool — such as gloves, stockings, &c., can be dyed a beautiful 
 drab as follows: To a pint of rain water add six or eight grains of nitrate 
 of silver; when it is dissolved, stir it well, and immerse the perfectly clean 
 fabric. See that it is well and evenly saturated, for which use a stick, 
 not a spoon, nor the hands. "When thoroughly soaked, it may be quickly 
 wrung out with the hands, they being instantly washed. In a pint of 
 water dissolve one quarter of an ounce of sulphuret of potassium, place 
 the goods in it, and saturate well; then wash in clear water, and it is 
 finished. It is better that the first-named solution should be hot, and a 
 little time taken for wocjI. Glass vessels must be used. 
 
 A Few iibiis on Dyeing. — To those who wish to have certain fabrics 
 dyed, the following information will be found useful as regj.rds the colors 
 they wiQ take. Thus, if the material be black, it can c)nly be dyed black; 
 brown, dark green, dark crimson, dark claret, and dark olive. Brown can 
 only be dyed black, dark brown, dark claret. Dark green: black, dark 
 brown, dark green, dark claret, dark olive. Light green : dark green, 
 black, dark brown, dark crimson, dark claret, dark olive. Dark crimson: 
 black, b]-own, dark crimson, dark claret. Light crimson will take the 
 fc-ame as dark crimson. Claret : bhick, brown, dark crimson, dark claret. 
 Fawn will take dark crimson, dark green, black, brown, dark claret. 
 Puce: black, brown, dark olive, dark crinison, dark claret. Dark blue: 
 black, brown, dark crimson, aark green, dark claiet, dark olive, dark blue. 
 Pale blue : dark crimson, dark green, black, brown, claret, puce, dark 
 blue, dark olive, lavender, orange, yellow. Olive will dye brown, black, 
 dark green, dark crimson, dark claret. Lavender: black, brown, darl/ 
 crimson, claret, lavender, olive. Pink: dark crimson, dark green, black, 
 brown (as all tints will take a black and brown, these colors will not bo 
 repeated), pink, olive, dark blue, dark puce, dark fawn. Rose, same as 
 pink, but also orange, scarlet, and girafle. Straw, primrose, and yellow 
 will dye almost any color requiied; as also will peach and giratie. Grav 
 will only dye, besides brown and black, dai'k green, dark claret, dark 
 
THE house-keeper's guide. 15 
 
 crimson, dark fawn, dark blue. AVhite silk, cotton, and woolen goo(}.5, 
 can be d^^ed any color. As cotton, silk, and wool all take dye differently, 
 it is almost impossible to re-dye a fabric of mixed stuff any color except 
 the dark ones named. It will be observed by the above list that pale blue 
 will re-dye better than any other color. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Arnica Hair Wash. — When the hair is falling off and becoming thin 
 from the frequent use of castor, macassar oils, &c., or when preiiiaturo 
 baldness arises from illness, the Arnica hair wash will be found of groat 
 service in arresting the mischief. It is thus prepared : Take elder water, 
 half a pint; sherry wine, half a pint; tincture of arnica, half an ounce, 
 alcoholic ammonia, one drachm — if this last named ingredient is old and 
 has lost its strength, then two drachms instead of one may be employed. 
 The whole of these are to be mixed in a lotion bottle, and applied to the 
 head every night v/ith a sponge. AVash the head with warm water 
 twice a week. Soft brushes only must be used during the growth of the 
 young hair. 
 
 Lotion for Restoring fhe Color of Gray Hair. — Take half an ounce of 
 sulphur steeped in alcohol, and a quarter of an ounce of sugar of lead, 
 mixed with ten ounces of rose water, in a phial. The phial should be 
 shaken every time the liquid is applied, which should be everv evening, 
 with a sponge, for about a week at first, then twice a week after the color 
 of the hair is restored. The head should be covered with a close glazed 
 linen cap after this lotion is put on. 
 
 Poma turn for Growth of the Hair. — This pomatum, applied to the scalp, 
 acts as a stimulant to the roots of the hair, and as a nourisher to the hair 
 itself, by stimulating the capillary vessels. In the immediate neighbor- 
 hood of hair-bulb, the blood particles are more numerous and active. 
 The ammonia, containing, as it does, nitrogen, one of the principal con- 
 stituents of hair, horn, and nail, affords one of its direct elements of for- 
 mation, and hence its value as a nourisher. It is utterly impossible for the 
 animal economy to create hair out of any oil, because oil is destitute of 
 nitrogen, but if grease be combined with ammonia, which yields nitrogen, 
 then great benefit will be derived from the pomade so made. Allpo- 
 mades and oils that are used for the hair only act a% a polish, but afford 
 no nourishment. The following is a simple form for making the ammo- 
 niacal pomatum: Take almond oil, a quarter of a pound; white wax, 
 half an ounce; clarified lard, three ounces; liquid ammonia, a quarter 
 fluid ounce; otto lavender and cloves, of each, one drachm. Place the 
 oil, wax, and lard into ajar, which set into boiling water; when the wax 
 is melted, allow the grease to cool till nearly ready to set, then stir in 
 the ammonia and the perfume, and put into small jars for use. Never 
 use a hard brush, nor comb the hair too much; apply the pomade at 
 night only. 
 
 Another Coloring for the Hair. — The following method is probably 
 more simple, and safer than any other: Take equal parts of vinegar, 
 lemon juice, and powdered litharge; boil for half an hour on a slow fire ; 
 wet the hair with this decoction, and in a short time it will turn black. 
 
 Milk of Almond.-;, for the Cimrplezion. — This niuch admired and harm 
 less cosmetic may be prepared thus: Procure a quarter of a pound of 
 the best .Jordan almonds, which blanch, by putting them into boiling 
 water for three minutes, and afterward into cold water for the same time 
 
16 THE IIOUSE-iEvEEI?>feil*S GUIDE. 
 
 Ibe skin or pellicle will then slip oft' Ly pressure between the thumb and 
 finger. The almonds are now to be crushed in a mortar, and rubbed with 
 a quarter of an ounce of the best white or curd soap. Continue the 
 rubbing for a quarter of an hour, during which period gradually add one 
 quart of rose water. "When the whole resembles milk, strain through line 
 muslin. It is then fit for use, and may be applied to the skin with the 
 corner of a soft towel, after washing. Those who are without a mortar 
 must grate the almonds on a bread grater, and rub the ingredients together 
 with clean hands. Fresh rain watei-, or plain distilled water, will answer 
 in lieu of rosewater, wdiere economy is studied. 
 
 Powder for Chafed Skin. — This preparation is universally applied for 
 drying the skin, after washing, especially at the joints, which, if left even 
 damp at certain seasons, produces chaps and chafing, often ft)llovved, if 
 neglected, by inflammation. Yiolet powder is best prepared by mixing 
 three parts of the best wheat starch with one of finely-ground orris root: 
 the latter adds to the drying ]iower of the starch, and imparts at the same 
 time an agreeable odor, like that of the violet; hence the Jiame of the mix- 
 ture. It is also prepared by perfuming starch with essential oils wilhout 
 the addition of orris root; but though the scent of the powder is stronger, 
 and to some more tempting to use, it is far less beneficial in its appdi- 
 cation. The scent, acting as a stimulant to the skin, increases rather 
 than abates any tendency to redness. Unperfumed powder is therefore 
 best to use, dusted over the part with a little swan's down, commonly 
 called a puff". 
 
 For Whitening ihe Skin^ and Removing Freckles a7td Tan. — Take one 
 ounce of borax, two ounces of cologne, one quart of alcohol, and three 
 quarts of rain water. Bathe three times a day in a solution of two tea- 
 spoonfuls in two table-spoonfuls of water. 
 
 Ointment for Chapped Haiids. — Take sweet oil, 3 ounces; spermaceti, 4 
 ounces, and pulverized camphor, 1 ounce. Mix them together in a clean 
 earthenware vessel, by the aid of gentle heat, and apjily it warm to the 
 hands night and morning. Another very good ointment for chapped 
 hands is made with a little fresh newly-churned butter and honey. 
 
 Cure for Bu7no7is and Corns. — The tincture of iodine applied to bunions 
 is said to aftbrd great relief. A strong solution of pearlash, applied to 
 corns, will soften \hera so that they may be easily drawn out. 
 
 To Remove Warts — Take ashes made from burnt willow bark, and 
 mix with sweet cider, and apply several times, and they will soon dis- 
 appear. 
 
 Cure for C/fiW^ams.— Apply a wash made of 1 part of muriatic acid 
 and 7 parts of water. 
 
 Glycerine is an excellent lubricator for rough or chapped hands. Apply 
 and rub in well on going to bed. 
 
 To Destroy Flu:s. — Get 10 cents worth of cobalt at the drug store, pul- 
 verize and mix with sweetened w^ater, on a large plate, and set it where 
 the files will have free access to it. It is poisonous. 
 
 Wash for Fruit Trees. — Take .3 gallons of lye, from wood ashes, strong 
 enough to just float an Qgg] 1 pint of soft soap, \ pound of niter, and a 
 handful of common salt. The niter should be dissolved in warm water; 
 then add the salt and other ingredients, and stir until thoroughly incor- 
 porated. Apply it to the trunks and large branches of the trees with a 
 common (painter's) brush. It should not be applied to very young 
 branches, or the leaves. 
 
 Remedy for Curcidio in Fruit Trees. — Sawdust, saturated witli (^oal oil, 
 and placed' at the roots of the tree, will be a sure preventive. 
 
THE nOtSE-KEE'PJi^'g GUIDE. l7 
 
 Afioilier. — It is snid that tansy, Ijound upon the limbs of plum- trees, 
 will be an offectual antidote agJiiiist the ruvages of this in-sect. 
 
 To Take Out Stains. — Takehalf a pint of water, dissolve in it half an 
 ounce of salt of sorrel ; add 2 ounces of spirits of wine. Shake them 
 well together. Kub the liquid on tiie stains with a sponge. 
 
 To Remove Staifis from Broadcloth. — Take 1 ounce of pipe-claj', that 
 has been ground line, and mix it with 12 drops of alcohol, and the same 
 quantity of spirits of turpentine. AVhenever j'ou wish to remove any 
 stains from cloth, moisten a little of this mixture and rub it on the spots. 
 Let it remain till dry, then rub it off with a woolen cloth, and the spoiJ* 
 will disappear. 
 
 To licrtiove Black Stains from Scarlet Woolen Goods. — Mix tartaric acid 
 with water, to give it a splendid acid taste, then saturate the black spot, 
 with it, taking care not to have it touch the clean part of the garment. 
 Rinse the spots immediately in fair water. AVeak pearlash water is good 
 to remove stains of acids. 
 
 To Extract Grease from Silks, Woole^i Goods, Paper, and Flood's. — 
 Grate on them very thick French chalk, (common will answer, but it is 
 not so good,) cover tlie spots with brown paper, and set on a mod'erately 
 warm iron, and let it remain till cool. Care must be taken not to have 
 the iron so hot as to scorch or change the color of the cloth. If the 
 grear-^e does not appear to be out, on removing the iron, grate on more 
 chalk, heat the iron again, and put it on. Eepeat the process till the 
 grease is entirely out. Strong pearlash water, mixed with sand, or the 
 washing fluid used in washing, will remove grease spots from floors, if 
 well scrubbed. 
 
 Another JSlethod of lyxtractlnp Grease from Cloth. — Take ^ pint alcohol 
 and add 10 grains carbonate of potash, jounce oil bergamot, and 1 ounce 
 eulphuric ether; mix, and keep in a glass-stopped bottle. Apply with 
 a piece of sponge, soaking the cloth thoroughly' when the grease is not 
 recent. The mixture emits a peculiarly fragrant odor, and being a fluid 
 Eoap, chemically composed, will be found a perfect solvent for oily mat- 
 ter. This, probably, is the best remedy extant for removing grease spots. 
 
 Remomng Staitis. — Ox-gall is an excellent article for removing oil 
 stains from delicate-colored fabrics. It often fixes and brightens colors, 
 but will slightly soil pure white materials. Alcohol or strong whisky 
 washes out stains of oil, wax, resin and pitchy or resinous substances; 
 so also does spirits of turpentine, and generally without injury to colors. 
 The turpentine may afterward be removed with alcohol or whisk}-. 
 Common burning fluid, which is a mixture of alcohol and turpentine, (or 
 camphene,) is an excellent solvent of oil, wax, tar, resin, etc., and it soon 
 dries ofl" after use. Ink stains, or iron mold, may generally be removed 
 with the juice of lemons or of sorrel leaves. If these fail, oxalic acid is 
 almost infallible. Moisten the stain spots witii water and rub on a little 
 powdered oxalic acid, which can be cheaply obtained at any druggist's. 
 Wash oft' the acid very thoroughly, soon after it is put on, or it will out 
 the fabric. If children arc present, remember that oxalic acid is poison- 
 ous in the mouth, though not so on the hands, if not kept long upon them. 
 
 Moistening a cloth and holding it a few minutes over the fumes of 
 burning sulphur will bleach out most colors and stains. Be careful not 
 to burn the labrics. The fumes may be conducted to any particular spot 
 by a paper roller, in funnel shape, (or a common tin funnel,) held over the 
 fumes of sulphur burning upon a shovel. The sulphur fumes are spe- 
 cially applicable to stains of fruit, and of vegetable juices generallj*. 
 These may frcquentlv be removed by dipping the fabric in sour milk and 
 2 
 
18 THE IIOUSE-KEEI'ER's GUIDE. 
 
 drying it in the sun, repeating the operation several times if needed. All 
 oily substances (except paint oils, ) can be expelled from carpets by holding 
 H very hot iron as near as it can be placed without burning. Porous 
 paper, or common brown paper laid upon a grease spot and run over sev- 
 eral times with a hot sad-iron (flat-iron,) will absorb the oil. 
 
 Ox-gall has been used from time immemorial, by jobbing dyers, for re- 
 moving grease stains from delicate colored woolen fabrics. It is mixed 
 with cold water at the rate of about three gallons of water to the contents 
 of one ox-gall. The fabric is immersed in this and squeezed between the 
 hands, or slightly pounded until the stains are removed. The fabric must 
 then be very thoroughly washed in cold water, for if any of the gall is 
 left in it the odor becomes very offensive. Strong cold soap suds, or a 
 bath of dilute aqua ammonia, is preferable to ox-gall in cleaning such 
 fabrics. 
 
 Oxalic, acetic, or any other acid must never be used to remove ink and 
 iron stains from any kind of cloth but that which is white, because these 
 acids will discharge pink, lilac, and other colors. The best way to use 
 oxalic acid to remove ink stains from white muslin is to put some of the 
 crystals of the salt upon the stain — making a small bag of the cloth 
 between the lingers — and pour some hot water upon them until they are 
 dissolved, when the stain v/ill have disappeared with the crystals of the 
 ftcid. 
 
 A mixture of alcohol and turpentine (burning fluid) is excellent for 
 removing grease and other stains from light-colored gloves and silks. 
 Jienzole is also equally as good; but when using these substances beware 
 of coming near a tire or u light of any kind, as they are very inflam- 
 nuible, and many painful accidents from burning have occurred by their 
 careless use. 
 
 To Remove Resin SpoU from Silk. — Many silk dresses receive stains 
 from turpentine being spilled upon them. These stains are due to ihe resin 
 which is held in solution by the turpentine, and which remains in the silk 
 after the volatile or spirituous portion has evaporated. Alcohol, applied 
 to the stains with u clean sponge, will remove the spots, because alcohol 
 dissolves the resin. The silk stains should be moistened with the alcohol 
 tlrst, and allowed to remain soaked for a few minutes. Fresh alcohol is 
 then applied with the sponge, and with a slight rubbing motion. It is 
 then wiped as dry as possible and afterward permitted to dr}' perfectly 
 in the open air. Alcohol also removes grease and oil s})ots from silk and 
 woolen dresses, but oil generally leaves a yellow stain behmd. A mixture 
 of alcohol and the retined light petroleum, called benzone, is excellent 
 fur cleaning light kid gloves, ribbons, and silks. It is applied with a clean 
 sponge. Persons who apply these liquors and mixtures to cleaning silks, 
 gloves, &c., must be careful to do so in an apartment where there is neither 
 tire nor lamp burning, under the penalty of an explosion. 
 
 To Remove Grease Spots from Wool. — In removing the grease from 
 wool, use a very weak alkaline solution as a substitute for soap, because 
 if the solution is too strong it will act chemically upon the wool, tending 
 to dissolve it, and thus impair its strength and luster. 
 
 Solvent for Old Putty and Paint. — Soft soap mix'ed with a solution of 
 potash or caustic soda; or pearlash and slaked lime mixed with sufficient 
 water to form a paste. Either of these, laid on with an old brush or rag, 
 and left for some hours, will render it easily removable. 
 
 To remove the stains on spoons caused by using them for boiled egg, 
 take a little common salt, moist between the thumb andtinger, and briskly 
 rub the stain, which will soon disappear 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 19 
 
 To Clean Paint — Smear a piece of flannel in common whiting, mixed 
 to the consistency of common paste, in warm water. Rub the surface to 
 be cleaned quite briskly, and wash off with pure cold water. Grease spots 
 will, in this way, be almost instantly removed, as well as other tilth, and 
 the paint will retain it? brilliancy and beauty unimpaired. 
 
 To Remove Ink Stains. — As soon as the ink is spilled, take a little milk 
 and saturate the stain , soak it up with a rag, and apply a little more milk, 
 rubbing it well. In a few minutes the ink wnll be completely removed. 
 
 To Remove Mildew. — Wet the cloth which contains the mildew with 
 soft water; rub it well with white soap, then scrape some fine chalk to 
 powder, and rub it well into the cloth; lay it out on the grass in the sun- 
 shine, watching it, to keep it damp with soft water. Kepeat the process 
 the next day, and in a few hours the mildew will all disappear. 
 
 To Keep Silk. — Silk articles should not be kept folded in white paper, 
 as the chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will probably impair 
 the color of the silk. Brown or blue paper is better; the yellowish smooth 
 India paper is best of all. Silk intended for dress should not be kept long 
 in the house before it is made up, as lying in the folds will have a ten- 
 dency to impair its durability by causing it to cut or split, particularly if 
 the silk has been thickened by gum. Thread lace vails are very easily- 
 cut; satin and velvet being soft, are not easily cut, but dresses of velvet 
 should not be laid by with any weight above them. If the nap of thin 
 velvet is laid down, it is not possible to raise it up again. Hard silk 
 should never be wrinkled, because the thread is easily broken in the 
 crease, and it never can be rectified. The way to take the wrinkles out 
 of silk scarfs or handkerchiefs is to moisten the surface evenly with a 
 sponge and some weak glue, and then pin the silk with toilet pins around 
 the selvages, on a mattress or feather bed, taking pains to draw out tha 
 silk as tight as possible. When dry, the wrinkles will have disappeared. 
 The reason of this is obvious to every person. It is a nice job to dress 
 light colored silk, and few should try it. Some silk articles may be moist- 
 ened with weak glue or gum water, and the wrinkles ironed out on the 
 wrong side by a hot flat iron. 
 
 To Prevent the Ravages of the Woolen Moth. — The ravages of the woolen 
 moth may be prevented, in a measure, by the use of any of the following 
 substances: camphor; and perhaps the most agreeable for wearing ap- 
 parel, a mixture of one ounce of cloves, one ounce of rhubarb, and one 
 ounce of cedar shavings, tied up in a bjig, and kept in a box or drawer. 
 If the substance be drj', scatter it in the folds of the cloth, carpet, blankets, 
 or furs; if liquid, scatter it freely in the boxes, or on the cloth or wrap- 
 per, laid over and around it. 
 
 To Remove Foul Air from Wells. — It is well known that many accidents 
 occur to persons going down into wells to clean them, owing to the nox- 
 ious gas in such places. To remove the gas l>efore descent is made into 
 any well, a quantity of burned but unslaked lime should be thrown down. 
 This, when it comes in contact with whatever water is below, sets free a 
 great amount of heat in the water and lime, which rushes upward, carry- 
 ing all the deleterious gases with it; after which descent maybe made 
 with perfect safety. The lime also absorbs carbonic acid in the well. 
 
 Disinfectants. — 1. 1 pint of the liquor of chloride of zinc, in 1 pailful 
 of water, and 1 pound of chloride of lime in another pailful of water. 
 This is perhaps the most efiective of any thing that can be used, and, when 
 thrown upon decayed vegetable matter of any description, will effectually 
 destroy all ott'ensive odors. 2. 3 or 4 pounds of sulphate of iron (cop- 
 peras) dissolved in a pailful of water will, in many cases, be sufficient to 
 
20 THE nOUSE-KEKPEIl's GUIDE. 
 
 remove all oflonsive odors. 3. Chloride Of lime is better to scatter about 
 damp places, in jards, in damp cellars, and upon heaps of tilth. 
 
 A Cheap and Tniihfui Barometer. — Put a small quantity of finely pul- 
 verized alum in a long, half-ounce phial, and till it with spirits of %vine; 
 wiien the atmosphere is dry and clear, the spirits will be as clear as a crys- 
 i.ii; but, on the approach of rain or foul weather, the alum will rise in tho 
 t-cnter, in the form of a spiral cloud, which is an infallible indication of 
 rain or bad weather. 
 
 To Harden Lard or Tallow Candles. — To 5 pounds lard or tallow, .ndd } 
 }iound each, alum and saltpeter, tirst dissolved in a little water; then boil 
 lugether till the water all evaporates. 
 
 Candles will burn much clearer, and the tallow will not "run," if you 
 steep the wicks in lime water and saltpeter, and then dry them. 
 
 To Make Carmine. — Boil 1 pound 4 ounces of ground cochineal and a 
 very little of the carbonate of soda in 4 gallons of soft water for twenty 
 minutes; then take it from the iire, and add drachms of alum, and stir 
 the mixture fbr a few minutes, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour 
 for the dregs to subside; then run ofi'the clear liquor; strain the sediment 
 through a line sieve or cloth, and then, when cold, add the whites of two 
 eggs to the sediment; fish-glue or isinglass will answer as well as the eggs. 
 The muriate of tin may be used instead of alum. The weight of the 
 cochineal may be reduced to any amount to make a small quantity, if tho 
 proportions are preserved. 
 
 Freventing the Fracture of Glass Chimneys. — The glass chimneys which 
 are now in such extensive use, not only for oil lamps, but also for the 
 burners of oil and coal gas, very frequently break, and not only expose 
 to danger those who are near them, but occasion very great expense and 
 inconvenience, particularly to those who are resident in the country. 
 The breaking of these glasses very often arises from knots in the glass 
 where it is less perfectly annealed, and also from an inequality of thick- 
 ness at their lower end, which prevents them from expanding uniformly 
 by heat. The evil arising from inequality of thickness may be cured by 
 Uiaking a cut with a diamond in the bottom of the tube. 
 
 Teeth Set on Edge. — All acid, foods, drinks, medicines, and tooth-washes 
 and powders, are very injurious to the teeth. If a tooth is put in cider, 
 vinegar, lemon juice, or tartaric acid, in a few hours the enamel will be 
 completely destroyed, so that it can be removed by the finger nail as if 
 it were chalk. 31oht people have experienced what is commonly called 
 teeth set on edge. The explanation of it is, the acid of the fruit that has 
 been eaten has so far softened the enamel of the tooth that the least pres- 
 sure is felt by the exceedingly small nerves which pervade the thin mem- 
 l>iane which connects the eiuimel and tho bony part of the tooth. Such 
 !tii eflect can not be produced without injuring tlie enamel. True, it v/ill 
 bvTume hard again, v.hen the acid has been removed by the fluids of 
 ihe mouth, just as an egg-shell that has been softened in this way becomes 
 iuud again by being put in the water. 'W'hen the efiect of sour fruit on 
 ilie teeth subsides, they ft^el as well as ever, but they are not as well. 
 And the oftener it is repeated, tho sooner the disastrous consequences 
 will bo manfested. 
 
 Veast. — Those who are not in the neighborhood of bakers, and can not 
 procure the fermentation called yeast, nuiy make a better substitute as 
 follows: boil 1 pound ilour, \ pound brown sugar, and a little salt in 
 'I gallons water for an hour. AVhen n)ilk-warm, bottle and cork it close, 
 and it will be ready for use in twenty-four hours. 
 
 Freserving Faintlngs. — ]Many valuable paintings that are hung against 
 
THE HOL'SE-KEEI'ER'S GUIDE. 21- 
 
 ■oiled walls of masonry, in churches and other buildings, are subjected to 
 a damp atmosphere, and the canvas becomes moldy. Old pictures, which 
 have become blackened, are restored by washing them with deut-oxide 
 of hydrogen, diluted in eight times its weight of water. The parts 
 touched must be afterward wiped with a clean sponge and water. 
 
 Curing Rancid Butter. — A correspondent of the literal Register g^\es the 
 following recipe for curing rancid butter: For 100 pounds rancid butter, 
 take 2 pounds fine white powdered sugar; 2 ounces saltpeter, finely pul- 
 verized, and as much fine dairy salt as you wish to add to the butter to 
 make it to your taste. The butter has to be thoroughly' washed in cold 
 water before working in the above ingredients. The amount used should 
 be in proportion to the strongness of the butter. 
 
 To Preserve Milk. — Put a spoonful of horseradish into a pan of milk, 
 and it will remain sweet for several days, either in the open air or in the 
 cellar, while other milk will sour. 
 
 Brilliant Whitewash. — Take half a bushel of nice unslaked lime; slack 
 it with boiling water, cover it during the process to keep in the steam. 
 Strain the liquid through a fine sieve or strainer, and add to it a peck of 
 clean salt, previously well dissolved in warm water; 3 pounds of ground 
 rice, boiled to a thin paste, and stirred in boiling hot; ^ pound powdered 
 Spanish whiting, and 1 pint of clean glue, which has been previously 
 dissolved by first soaking it well, and then hanging it over a slow fire, in 
 a small kettle, with a large one filled with water. Add 5 gallons of hot 
 water to the whole mixture, stir it well, and let it stand a few days covered 
 from the dirt. It should be put on right hot; for this purpose, it can be 
 kept in a kettle or a portable furnace. It is said that about 1 pint of this 
 mixture will cover a square yard, if properly applied with a brush, as in 
 painting. It answ(!rs as well as oil paint for wood, brick, or stone, and is 
 the cheapest. It retains its brilliancy for many years. There is nothing 
 of the kind that will compare with it, either for inside or outside walls. 
 Coloring matter may be put in, and made of any shade you like. 
 
 Spanish brown stirred in will make red or }»ink, more or less, according 
 to the quantity. A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for inside walls. 
 Finely pulverized common clay, well mixed with Spanish brown, before 
 it is stirred into the mixture, makes a lilac color. Lampblack in moderate 
 quantities makes a slate color, very suitable for the outside of buildings. 
 Lampblack and Spanish brown, mixed together, produce a reddish stone 
 color. Yellow ochre stirred in makes yellow wash, but chrome goes 
 farther, and makes a color generally esteemed prettier. In all these 
 cases, the darkness of the shade v/ill of course be determined by the quan- 
 tity of coloring used. It is difficult to make a rule, because tastes are 
 very different ; it would be best to try experiments on a shingle, and let 
 it dry. We have been told that green must not be mixed with lime. 
 The lime destroys the color, and the color has an eflect on the whitewash, 
 which makes it crack and peel. If a larger quantity than five gallons is 
 wanted, the same proportion should be observed. 
 
 Ziyic Waf.h for Rooms. — Mix oxide of zinc with common size, and 
 apply it with a brush, like lime whitewash, to the ceiling of a room. 
 After this, apply a wash, in the same manner, of the chloride of zinc, 
 which will combine with the oxide and form a smooth cement with a 
 shining surface. 
 
 Preserving Biitter. — Take two parts of the best common salt, one part 
 of sugar, and one part of saltpeter, and blend the whole completely 
 Take 1 ounce of this composition for 1 pound of butter; work it well 
 
22 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 into a mass and close it up for use. Butter thus cured requires to stand 
 three or four weeks before it is used. 
 
 To Make Butter Felloii% in Winter. — Just before the termination of 
 churning, put in the yolks of eggs, and your butter will be as yellow 
 as gold. 
 
 Water-proof Oil Blacking. — Take 2 ounces yellow beeswax, shaved 
 fine, and 2 ounces pulverized resin, and melt in ^ pound currier's oil 
 (lard will do,) over a slow fire, then add ^- pound fresh tallow and con- 
 tinue the heat till all are thoroughly incorporated. Apply this compound 
 freely to all parts, the soles as well as the uppers, and dry in, by a mod- 
 erate heat. Kepeat the process as long as the leather will absorb the 
 grejise, and you will not be troubled with damp feet. AVhile this com- 
 pound is sufiicicntly water-proof, it does not, like India-rubber, and 
 other compounds used for the same pui'pose, completely close the pores 
 of the leather, making it impervious to the air, and thereby causing it 
 to decay, but tends to preserve it to a period of double its natural wear. 
 The process of alternately wetting and drying leather (by going out in 
 wet weather and then drying) causes it do decay much sooner than it 
 otherwise would ; and if completely saturated with this composition 
 two or three times before much worn, then occasionally afterward, so 
 as to fill up the pores, and keep out the water, it would last twice as 
 long. 
 
 Polish for Old Furniture. — Take 1 pint alcohol; 1 pint linseed oil; 1 
 ounce powdered gum arable; \ ounce tincture red saunders; \ ounce 
 bergamot. Put it on with cotton flannel, then rub it hard with another 
 dry piece. 
 
 Another. — Dissolve beeswax in turpentine, and apply same way. 
 
 To Prevent Flies from Injuring Picture-frames, Glasses, etc. — Boil three 
 or four onions in 1 pint of water; then, with a gilding brush do over your 
 glass and frames, and the flies will not alight on the articles so washed. 
 This maybe used without apprehension, and it will not do the least injury 
 to the frames. 
 
 To Clean Silver and Britannia. — Use whiting, finely-powdered, and 
 moistened with alcohol. 
 
 To Make Cloth Fire-Proof — Take 2^ pounds sugar of lead, ^ pound 
 litharge, and boil them for half an hour in 4 gallons water, when the liquor 
 is allowed to settle. Any quantity of the clear fluid that will suffice to 
 cover the cloth to be operated upon, is now taken, and the cloth immersed 
 and freely saturated in it: then dried in the open air. 
 
 The cloth is now immersed in a hot and moderately strong solution of 
 silicate of soda, then thoroughly washed in cold water, and dried. Chil- 
 dren's clothes prepared in this way will not take fire. 
 
 Porous Water-Proof Cloth. — This quality is given to cloth by simply 
 passing it through a "hot solution of weak glue and alum. This is what 
 is done by paper-makers to make writing paper, the very thing which 
 constitutes the difference between it and blotting paper, only on cloth the 
 nap like the fur of a beaver, will preserve the cloth from being wet through, 
 M the rain will not adhere, but trickle off" as soon as it falls, and moisture 
 /ill not adhere at all. 
 
 To apply it to the cloth, make up a weak solution of glue, and while it 
 .J hot, add a piece of alum, about an ounce to two quarts, and then brush 
 It over the surface of the cloth while it is hot, and it is afterward dried. 
 Cloth in pieces may be run through this solution, and then wrung out of 
 it and dried. By adding a few pieces of soap to the glue the cloth will 
 
THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 23 
 
 [eel mach softer. Goods in pieces may be run through a tubful of weak 
 g.u<5, (foap, and alum, and squeezed between rollers. Tins would be a cheap 
 and expeditious mode of preparing them. Woolen goods are prepared 
 by brushing them with the above mixture, first on the inside, then with 
 the grain or nap of the cloth, after which it is dried. It is best to dry 
 this tirst in the air, and then in a stove room, at a low heat, but allow the 
 cloth to remain for a considerable time, to expel the moisture completely. 
 This kind of cloth, while it is sufficiently wati^r-proof to keep out moisture 
 and rain — being quite impervious to water — is pervious to the air. Many 
 fishermen know that by boiling their pants, jackets, nets, and sails in u 
 pot with oak bark and fish skins, and afterward drying them, they become 
 waterproof. The composition mentioned above is of nearly the same 
 nature as the fish-glue and oak bark, and, consequently, the same effects 
 are produced. The composition is stated to bo improved by adding about 
 one-fourth the quantity of the sulphate of copper to the alum. Cloth 
 made waterproof in this manner will resist the efiects of water even if it 
 is somewhat warm, but it loses its waterproof properties if boiled. Per- 
 sons who are exposed to the inclemency of the weather will find it to their 
 advantage, as a means of preserving health, to prepare their clothes in the 
 way we have described. Several corps in the French army are provided 
 with porous water-proof cloth tunics prepared in a similar manner. 
 They have been found very beneficial when the troops are in active 
 service. 
 
 Another. — Take 2\ pounds of alum, and dissolve this in 10 gallons of 
 boiling water; then, in a separate vessel, dissolve the same quantity of 
 sugar of lead in 10 gallons of water, and mix the two solutions. The 
 cloth is now well handled in this liquid until every part of it is penetrated; 
 then it js squeezed and dried in the air, or in a warm apartment, then 
 washed in cold water and dried again, when it is left for use. If neces- 
 sary, the cloth may be dipped in the liquid and dried twice before being 
 washed. The liquor appears curdled when the alum and lead solutions 
 are mixed together. This is the result of double decomposition; the 
 sulphate of lead, which is an insoluble salt, being formed. The sulphate 
 of lead is taken up in the pores of the cloth, and it is unafiected by rain 
 or moisture; and yet it does not render the cloth air-tight. Such cloth 
 is also partially non-inflammable. A solution of alum itself will render 
 cloth, prepared as described, partially waterproof; but it is not so good 
 as the sulphate of lead. Such cloth — cotton or woolen — sheds rain like 
 the feathers on the back of a duck. 
 
 To Soften Hard Water. — Dissolve 1 pound of sal soda in 1 gallon of boil- 
 ing water, and to this add \ pound of fresh burned and slaked lime; 
 agitate these together, and allow the water to rest for sediment to settle. 
 The clear liquor is next poured ofl", and forms a caustic ley. A little of 
 this ley is now placed in a glass tumbler, and a few drops of hydrochlo- 
 ric (muriatic) acid are added. If the liquor effervesces, a little more acid 
 must be added. The acid is a test, and when the ley ceases to effervesce 
 by adding a few drops of the acid, it is a sign that it is fit for use. This 
 caustic ley will precipitate sulphates and carbonates in hard water, and 
 render the latter soft and fit for feeding into boilers, or for washing pur- 
 poses. A certain quantity of this ley is requisite to treat a certain quan- 
 tity of hard water, and the way to determine this is as follows : Take a 
 gallon of hard water to be softened ; add 1 ounce of the prepared ley to it, 
 and allow the sediment to settle for ten minutes ; now add another ounce 
 of the ley, and if no fiocculeut material, or precipitate, appears, it is a 
 sign that one ounce of the ley will purify cue gallon of the hard water. 
 
2-4 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 The ley must be added until all the eartliy impurities in the water art 
 thrown down. From these data, a calouhition can be made for thousands 
 of gallons. Thus, for a 10-horse power boiler, 600 gallons of water will 
 be "required in 10 hours, and 3| gallons of this ley will be required to 
 purify it. This should be done in a setting tank, and the puritied water 
 run otf into a supply cistern for feeding the boiler. The water must not 
 be rcndere<:l caustic, or it will act on the metal. 
 
 Fleafi on Dogs. — I have found the following receipt most effectual in kill- 
 ing fleas on dogs, viz.: to rub them well over with whisky; it acts like 
 magic, killing them irMantei^; if all are not polished off in one application, 
 another will he necessary. 
 
 To Brig/den Brass. — The pickle which is employed for brightening brass 
 is made with equal parts of nitric and muriatic acids, diluted with four times 
 their bulk of water. Sulphuric acid, diluted with three times its weight 
 of water, and used hot, also makes a good brightening pickle for brass, 
 which nuist be thoroughly washed in hot water afterward, and then dri^id 
 in warm saw-dust. 
 
 To Keep Meialsfrom Rusting. — A most excellent oil to preserve the locks 
 of guns and bright iron from rusting, may be made as follows: Take 
 some refined petn>leum, and add about ten per cent, in measure, of castor 
 oil, and stir together well, and it is ready for use. This is also a good 
 lubricating oil for machinery. 
 
 To Brown Gun-Barrels. — Take tincture of iodine, and dilute with ^ its 
 bulk with water; apply it to the surface of the barrel Avith a clean rag; 
 let it stand about six hours ; then brush the metal, rub it over with some 
 beeswax dissolved in turpentine, and it is done. 
 
 To Prevent Skippers in Ham. — Keep your smokehouse perfectly dark, 
 and the moth which deposits the egg will never enter it. Smoke with, 
 green hickory wood, and the flavor will be much better than by any 
 other. 
 
 To Prevent Frost. — Frost can only occur where the atmosphere is dry 
 and clear. Have a pile of straw or any other refuse matter, on hand, 
 near your garden or orchard, and when there is any sign of frost, wet it 
 and set it on fire about sundown, and the smoke and wind which it will 
 create will elfectually keep away all frost, especially if the fires be built 
 on several sides of the area to be protected. 
 
 A Substitute for Coffee. — Take a peck of rye and cover it with water, 
 let it steep or boil until the grain swells, or commences to burst; then 
 drain and dry it. N(,)W roast to a deep-brown color, and prepare as other 
 coffee, allowing twice the time for boiling. This alone makes a very 
 good coflee ; but if mixed with equal parts of carrots or beets, sliced thin 
 and dried in an oven till brown, it will make an article but little, if any, 
 inferior to the genuine. 
 
 To Exterminate Rats. — Take about one-half a tea-cupful of potash, and 
 wrap it in cotton batten, and place it in the holes in your cellars, and 
 ptop them up. They will take the batten to build nests, and burn their 
 feet with the potash, whereupon they will quit the premises instanter. 
 
 Ayiother. — Take equal parts of powdered nux vomica and oatmeal, and 
 mix them thoroughly together, and put the mixture a short distance 
 from the holes. 
 
 Poison Bails for Rats and Roaches. — Put a drachm of phosphorus in a 
 bottle along with two ounces of water: cork it, and plunge it into a ves- 
 sel of boiling water till the phosphorus is dissolved; then pour it into a 
 mortar along with 3 ounces of lard, and rub it briskly, adding some 
 water, about half a pound of flour, and 2 ounces of sugar. The whole is 
 
THE IIOLSE-KEEPER's GUIDE. 25 
 
 madr» into a paste, and divided into balla about the size of marbles. This 
 ia laid down on the floor, or shelves, for rats, cockroaches, or other ver- 
 min, who eat and are destroyed. For rats, cheese is better than su«2:ar, 
 and tallow better than lard. The cockroaches are fond of any thinij; 
 sweet ; hence sugar is a bait for them. Potatoes will answer as well as 
 the flour. These balls should be laid down at night, and carefully lifted 
 in the morning, taking care nut to let any be touched by a child* They 
 should be locked up through the day. 
 
 To Destroy Cockroaches and other Vermin. — An infallible means of de- 
 stroying cockroaelies, beetles, &c., is to strew the roots of black hellebore 
 on the floor at night. Next morning the whole family of these insects 
 will be found either dead or dying, for such is their avidity for the poison- 
 ous plant, that they never fail to eat it, when they can get it. Black hel- 
 lebore grows in marshy grounds, and may be had at afl herb-shops. 
 
 To Preserve Eggs. — Take 1 pint of good salt, 1 pint of slaked lime, and 
 aissolve in 3 gallons of water. Put your eggs in this pickle, and keep 
 them covered with it, and in a cool cellar. 
 
 Another. — Put your eggs in a basket, sieve, colander, or in a piece of 
 thin muslin, and dip them into boiling water, and let them remain till 
 you can count twenty. This forms a \h\n skin inside the shell, which 
 makes them impervious to the air. Now pack them with the little end 
 down, and keep in a cool place. If packed in salt, after having been 
 subjected to this treatment, they will keep good two years. 
 
 How to Catch all the FisJt, you Want. — Take the juice of smallage or 
 loviige, and mix it with any kind of bait. Bait your hooks and go to 
 fishing, and you will catch all the fish you neod. A few drops of oil of 
 rhodium is al^o good. 
 
 Another. — Take cocculus indicus, pulverize, and mix with dough; then 
 scatter broadcast over the water. This will be seized with great avidity 
 by the fish, which will so completely intoxicate them that they will turn 
 belly up on the surface of the water by hundreds. Now have a boat ready, 
 and pick up what you want, and put them in a tub of fresh water, and (n 
 a few minutes tboy will be all right again. 
 
 How to Catch Wild Geese and other Wild Fowls Alive. — Soak wheat or 
 
 other grain in strong alcohol or whisky, and strew it plentifully where 
 
 they frequent, and it will intoxicate them so you can go up and catch 
 
 •them alive. Of course, they will have to be watched, so as to take them 
 
 soon after eating. 
 
 Sealing- Wax for Bottles, Fruii-Can.<i, ^'c. — Melt together 6 ounces resin, 
 2 ounces shellac, 4 ounces Venice turpentine, and color with lampblack. 
 
 A Substitute for a Carpet. — Save all your old newspapers, and when 
 you get enough for the purpose, make a paste, same as for putting on the 
 wall, and lay them down, one by one, till your floor is covered. Let it 
 dry; then lay down another coating in the same way. When again dry, 
 get some good wall paper, of suitable color, and paste all over it. When 
 dry, go over it with a good coat of varnish, and ycu will have a nice 
 covering for your floor, which will wear as long as a carpet, and look as 
 well as oil-cloths. This is a cheap method of covering bedroom floors, 
 and other roonis which are not much used. When required to be cleaned, 
 wipe it off with a wet cloth. 
 
CULINARY DEPARTMENT. 
 
 Genertil Remnrka on Bread. — In order to secure good bread, it is the 
 befit economy to purchase the best flour, even at a greater cost, Ne.vly- 
 gronnd flour, which has never l>een packed, is much superior to barrel- 
 tlour. hidlan meal, also, is much the best when freshly ground. 
 
 No one thing is of more importance in making bread than thoroughly 
 kneading it. When bread is taken out of the oven hot, never set flat on 
 II table, as it sweats the bottom, and acquires a bad taste from the wood. 
 Take it out of the tins, wrap it in clean linen, and set it up on the end 
 till cool. If it has a thick, hard crust, first wrap it with a wet cloth, 
 then a dry one over it, and let it sweat till it becomes soft. 
 
 Wheat Bread. — Take 2 quarts of wheat flour, half a cup of molasses, a 
 tea-cupful of lively yeast, mixed up with warm water; let it stand in a 
 warm place an hour and a half; if neces.sary, add a little saleratus; bake 
 ail hour and a half. (See page 94, also 20.) 
 
 Salt-rising Bread. — Take a little warm water, with a little salt in it, and 
 mix with enough flour to make about aquart of batter (it will rise quicker 
 with a handful of meal stirred in), and set in warm water, near the stove, 
 where it will keep moderately warm. "When it rises and comes up, near 
 the point of running over, mix your bread, place in tins, and set near the 
 stove to rise. When it comes up light, put in a hot oven, and bake till 
 well done. Some prefer molding it over after it comes up, and then re- 
 lising before baking. 
 
 Brown Bread. — Put the Indian meal in your bread-pan; sprinkle a lit- 
 tle salt among it, and wet it thoroughly with scalding water. When it 
 is cool, put in your rye, add 2 gills of lively yeast, and mix it with water 
 SIS still as you can knead it. Let it stand an hour and a half, in a cool 
 place in summer, on the hearth in winter. It should be put into a very 
 hot oven, and baked three or four hours. 
 
 Jh/e and Indian Bread. — Take about 2 quarts of Indian meal, and scald 
 it; then add as much rye meal, a tea-cupful of molasses, half a pint of 
 lively yeast. If the yeast be sweet, no saleratus is necessary. If sour, 
 put in a little; let it stand from one to two hours, till it rises; then bake 
 it abt>ut three hours. 
 
 Liyht Biscicit. — Ten pounds flour, a pint of buttermilk, half a tea-spoon- 
 ful of saleratus; put into the buttermilk a small ]iiece of butter, or lai-d, 
 rubbed into the flour ; make it about the consistency of bread before baking. 
 
 Bread Biscuit. — Three pounds flour, half a pint of Indian meal, a lit- 
 tle butter, 2 spoonfuls of lively j'east; set it before the fire, to rise over 
 night ; mix it with warm water. 
 
 Rolls. — Warm an ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, then add a 
 epoonful and a half of yeast, and a little salt. Put 2 pounds of flour in a 
 })an, and mix in the above ingredients. Let it rise an hour, or over 
 night, in a cool place ; knead it well, and make into seven rolls, and 
 bake them in quick oven. Add half a tea-spoonful of saleratus just aa 
 you put into the baker. 
 
 Short Rolls. — Take about 5 pounds of flour, and a piece of butter half 
 the size of an egg, two spoonfuls of yeast, and mix it with warm milk; 
 make it into a light dough, and let it stand by the tire all night; should it 
 sour, put in a little saleratus. Bake in a quick oven. 
 
 26 
 
THE HOUSE-KEEPER R O-UIDE. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Bread P-^ddhiff.—Tuke thin slices of bread (that which is a little dry \f^ 
 Wt) and put them in layers in your pan; now take a sufficient quantity 
 of niilk, e<::g?, and sugar/which has previously been well beaten together, 
 and turn on till the bread is all well covered, then put in a hot oven and 
 bake till well done. By no means ever beat or stir your bread all up 
 like mu.s'i before it is baked, as it makes it heavy, and unfit to be eaten ; 
 but pour your milk, eggs, etc., on, and then bake without disturbing it. 
 Add butter and fruit if you like. 
 
 Baked Rice Piuhlrnrj.— Y:\kQ a large coffee-cup of rice, and gradually heat 
 on the stove in three pints of milk, for an hour or more; now beat up 4 
 eggs with another pint of milk, in which you have put sugar, seasoning, 
 etc., and stir in and bake in a quick oven, three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 Baked Indlon Pudding. — First make your m«al into a boiled mush, then 
 add your milk, eggs, sugar, and seasoning, well beat together, and bake 
 same as rice or bread pudding. 
 
 Another — Always Good. — One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 5 large tea-spoon- 
 fuls of Indian meal, nutmeg and sugar to your taste. Boil the milk, and 
 fcald the Indian meal in it; then let it cool before you add the eggs. 
 Bake three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 Cottage Pudding. — One pint-bowl flour, one teacup milk, one egg, half 
 teacup sugar, one teaspoon soda dissolved in the milk, two teaspoons 
 cream tartar rubbed in the flour. Bake twenty minutes or half an hour. 
 Sauce. 
 
 Poor Man's Pudding. — Two quarts milk, one cup uncooked rice, half 
 cup sugar, piece of butter size of walnut, 2 teaspoons salt. Spice to taste. 
 Bake 3 hours, and stir several times during the flrst hours. 
 
 Apple Sago Pudding. — One cup sago, in water enough to swell it, i. g., 
 about 6 cups. Put it on the stove and swell it. . In the meantime stew 
 lu or 12 apples, mix with the swelled sago, and bake three-quarters of an 
 hour. Eat with cream and sugar, or wine sauce. 
 
 Wedding Cake Pudding. — Two-thirds of a cup of butter, 1 cup of mo- 
 lasses, 2 cups of milk, 2 teaspoons of saleratus, 4 eggs, 2 pounds of raisins, 
 stoned and chopped, 1 pound of currants, \ of a pound of citron. Fhmr 
 to make a batter as thick as pound-cake; salt and all sorts of spices. Boil 
 or steam five hours. To be eaten with wine sauce. 
 
 Salem Pudding. — One cup suet, chopped fine; one cup molasses, one cup 
 milk, one teaspoon soda, three and a half cups flour, two teaspoons cream 
 tartar, one cup raisins, one teaspoon cloves, a little salt. Steam three 
 hours. Wine sauce. 
 
 Carrie's Apple Pudding. — Half pint milk, one egg, and flour to make u 
 pretty stifi' batter; a little salt. Fill your pudding-dish with sliced apples, 
 pour your batter over them, and steam three hours. Sauce. 
 
 Gree7i Corn Pudding. — Take half a dozen ears of green sweet corn, 
 (good size,) and with a sharp pointed knife split each row of kernels, 
 and scrape from the ear. JMix with this pulp 2 eggs, well beaten, 2 
 tablespoons sugar, 1 of butter, 1 saltspoon of salt, ^ pint sweet cream, 
 (milk may be sulistituted, with an extra spoonful of butter,) and one 
 dozen crackers, grated or pounded very fine. Mix well together, and 
 bake three hours, if in a pudding-dish — or two, in custard cups. Use the 
 corn raw. 
 
 Baked Plum-Pudding. — Two quarts milk, ten soft crackers, eight eggs, 
 one pound stoned raisins. Spice to taste. Bake from three to four hours. 
 JShucc 
 
25 
 
 THE IIOU.SK-KEEPER S CJUIDE. 
 
 SHnderland Piadlnig, No. 1. — One qusti-t milk, four oggs, six tabUispooiu 
 flour, a little salt. IJaUc in cups twenty mitiutes. Sauce. 
 
 Sunderldud Padding^ No. 2. — One pint milk, one pint flour, three G^S^t 
 salt. 
 
 Quakinfi Ph-crn Pnddiiiq. — Take slices of light bread, spread thin with 
 butter, aJid lay in a pudding-dish layers of this bread, and raisins, till 
 within an inch of the top. Add 5 eggs, well beaten, and a quart of 
 milk, and ]K)ur over the pudding; salt and spice to taste. Bake it twenty 
 or twenty-tivo minutes, and eat with liquid sauce. Before using the 
 raisins, boil them in a little water, and put it all in. 
 
 Mrs. \yetstons Baked Indian Padding. — Take 6 table-spoonfuls of meal, 
 and stir molasses or sirup enough in it to liave the meal all wet, and no 
 more; that will sweeten enough: then take 1 quart of milk, and boil it; 
 pour it boiling hot on the meal ; stir the meal while pouring the milk on 
 to it, so as not to make it lumpy. Stir in 3 table-spoonfuls of wheat flour, 
 wet with a little cold milk; salt and spice to the taste, and bake two 
 hours; and it will be equal to any meal pudding with eggs und suet that 
 can be made. 
 
 Fig Padding. — Half pound of tigs, \ pound of flour, two eggs, \ pound 
 of suet, a little sugar, and a little wine, salt, and various spices. To be 
 boiled in a tin shape for four hours. 
 
 Mrs. Hamlin s Padding. — One pint sweet milk, 1 tea-spoonful soda, J 
 cup molasses, 2 cups Indian meal, 1 cup flour. Steam two hours. 
 
 Bird's-Nest Pudding. — Put into 3 pints of boiling milk 6 crackers, 
 pounded tine, and 1 cup of raisins; when cool, add 4 eggs, well beaten, a 
 little sugar, and four good-sized apples, pared and cored. To be baked 
 and eaten with warm sauce. 
 
 Carrot Pudding. — Half pound grated carrot, half pound grated potato, 
 half pound suet chopped tine, half pound flour, spices of all sorts, salt, 
 raisins, and citron to tast.e. Steam tive hours. To be eaten with wine 
 sauce. 
 
 Corn Starch Pudding. — Let those who are fond of good dessert puddings 
 get the Oswego Corn Starch, and make according to the dii-ections accom- 
 jianying each package. An excellent diet for the sick. 
 
 Tapioca Puddi7ig. — Six table-spoonfuls of tapioca, one quart of milk, 
 three cg^'^., sugar and spice to your taste; heat the milk and tapioca mod- 
 erately ; bake it one hour. 
 
 Mrs. Meachant s Boiled Indian Pudding. — Two cups Indian meal, tw(» 
 cups flour, one egg, half cup molasses, one teaspoon soda, two teaspoons 
 cream tartar. Wet with milk till about as thick as cake. Steam three 
 liours. Never lift the cover while it is cooking, or it will not be light. 
 Sauce. 
 
 Mrs. H.s Berry Padding. — Coftee-cup sweet milk, one-third cup mo- 
 lasses, one egg, a little salt, a little saleratus, three and a half teacups 
 flour. Beat all with a spoon. Flour, three pints berries, and stir in with 
 a knife. Steam three hours. Sauce. 
 
 Madame P:s Pudding Sauce. — I-iarge coffee-cup pov/dered sugar, quar- 
 ter pound butter. Beat together very light; then add one egg, but do not 
 beat much after the f^.gg is in. Stir in one glass of wine. Take off' the 
 tea-kettle cover, set the sauce in, and let it melt till as thick as cream, 
 stirring it occasionally. 
 
 Hasty Pudding. — Boil water, a quart, three pints, or two quarts, accord- 
 ing to the size of your family; sift your meal, stir five or six spoonfuls 
 of it thoroughly into a bowl of water; when the water in the kettle boils, 
 pour into it the contents of the bowl ; stir it well and let it boil up thick* 
 
THE IIOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 29 
 
 put in sjiU to suit your own taste, then stand over the kettle, anil sprinkle 
 in meal, liandfu^ jifter handful, stirring it very thoroughly all the tinu*, 
 and letting it boil between whiles. When it is so thick that you stir it with 
 ditficulty, it is about right. It takes about half an hour's cooking. Eat 
 it with milk or molasses. Either Indian meal or rye meal may be used. 
 If the system is in a restricted state, nothing can be better than rye hasty 
 pudding and good molasses. This diet would save many a one the horror.s 
 of d3^spepsia. 
 
 A Good Sauce for Baked Puddings. — Take 1 pint of water, a large tea- 
 cup of sugar, piece of butter size of a large egg, a little nutmeg and as- 
 sence of lemon, and bi'ing to a boil. Now take a little flour, or corn-starch, 
 (which is best,) well beat into a paste, and thinned, and stir in gradually, 
 till of the consistency of cream, or as thick as you like ; then add a large 
 table-spoonful of vinegar or brandy. 
 
 Sauce for Boiled Fuddbigs. — Equal parts of butter and white sugar 
 well beaten together, till it becomes light ; then seasoned with "utmeg, and 
 wine or brandy. 
 
 PIES AND PASTEY. 
 
 Common Paste for Pies. — Take a quantity of flour proportioned to the 
 number of pies you wish to make, then rub in some lard and salt, and 
 stir it with cold water; then roll it out, and spread on some lard, and 
 scatter over some dry flour; then double it t^^ether, and cut it to pieces, 
 and roll it to the thickness you wish to use it. 
 
 Good commoyi Pie Crust. — Allow one hand as full of flour as you can 
 take it up for each pie; and for eacth three handfuls, allow two heaping 
 spoonfuls of lard or butter; rub in a part, as directed, and roll in the rest. 
 
 Cream Crust. — This is the most healthy pie crust that is made. Take 
 croam, sour or sweet, add salt, and stir in flour to make it stiff: if the 
 cream is sour, add saleratus in proportion of one tea-spoonful to a pint; 
 if sweet, use very little saleratus. Mold it as little as you can. 
 
 Rick Puff Paste. — Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much 
 flne flour as you judge necessary, mix a little of the former with the lat- 
 ter, and wet it with as little butter as will make it into a stifl:' paste, 
 lloll it out, and put all the butter over it in slices, turn in the ends, and 
 roll it thin; do this twice, and touch it no more than can possible be 
 avoided. 
 
 Paste for a Good Dumpling. — Rub into a pound of flour six ounces of 
 butter; then work it into a paste, with two well-beaten eggs and a little 
 water. If you bake this paste, a large table-spoonful of loaf sugar may 
 be added to it. 
 
 Paste for Family Pies. — Rub into one pound and a half of flour half 
 a pound of butter; wet it with cold water sufficient to make a stifl* paste, 
 work it well, and roll it out two or three times. 
 
 Plain Mince Pies. — These may be made of almost any cheap pieces of 
 meat, boiled till tender; add suet or salt pork chopped very tine; two- 
 thirds as much apple as meat; sugar and spice to your taste. If mince 
 pies are eaten cold, it is better to use salt pork than suet. A lemon and 
 a little syrup of sweetmeats will greatly improve them. Clove is the 
 most important spice. 
 
 Apple Mince Pies. — To twelve apples chopped fine, add six beaten eggg, 
 Rnd half a pint of cream. Put in spice, sugar, raisins or currants, just as 
 you would for meat mince jmcs. They are very good. 
 
30 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 Cherry Pies. — I'he common red cherry makes the best pie. A largt 
 deep dish is Lest. Use sugar in the proportion directed for black- 
 berries. 
 
 Whortleberry or BlacJcberry Plea. — Fill the dish not quite even full, 
 and to each pie of the size of a soup plate, add four large spoonfuls of 
 sugar, for blackberries and blueberries; dredge a very little fiour over tho 
 fruit before j^ou lay on the upper crust. 
 
 Apple Fie. — Peel the apples, slice them thin, pour a little molasses, and 
 sprinkle some sugar over them ; grate on some lemon peel or nutmeg. If 
 you wish to make richer, put a little butter on the top. 
 
 Cocoa Nut Pie. — One good-sized cocoa-nut peeled and grated, 1 quart 
 of niilk sweetened like custard, a piece of butter the size of a walnut in 
 each pie; four eggs to the quart. 
 
 Mince Pies. — Meat tlnely chopped, five pounds; good apples, 7 pounds; 
 sugar, 3 pounds; raisins, 3 pounds; currant jelly, 1 pound; butter, 4 
 ounces; mace or cinnamon, 1 ounce. When this is prepared, make a crust 
 of two-thirds the usual quantity of lard, and one-third of fat salt pork, 
 ver^' finely chopped ; all of which should be rubbed in flour and wet with 
 cold water. Bake in a slov/ oven one hour. 
 
 Pineapple Pic. — Pare and grate large pineapples, and to every teacup 
 of grated pineapple, add half a tea-cupful of tine white sugar; turn tho 
 pineapple and sugar into dishes lined with paste; put a strip of the paste 
 Mi-ound the dish; cover the pie with paste, wet and press together tho 
 edges of the paste; cut a slit in the center of the cover, through which the 
 vapor may escape. Bake thirty minutes. 
 
 AuguHtds Lemon Pie. — Juice and grated rind of three lemons, 3 eggs, 
 and three tablespoons sugar to a lemon. Bake in puff paste. 
 
 Mrs. C.'s Punipkiyi Pie.^ — Stew a large-sized pumpkin in about 1 pint 
 of water till dry, sift through a colander; add 2 quarts milk scalded, G 
 eggs, heaped tablespoon ginger, half as much cinnamon, 2 colFoe-cups 
 molasses, 2 coffee-cups sugar, 2 teaspoons salt. Bake in a pretty hot oven, 
 one hoiu" at least. 
 
 Jane P.s Lemon Cream Pie.— One cup sugar, 1 cup water, 1 raw potato, 
 grated, juice, grated rind of 1 lemon; bake in pastry top and bottom. 
 This will make one pie. 
 
 Dedhani Cream Pie. — Bake your paste not too rich, in a common pio 
 \->\iii{i first. Boil 1 pint of milk; when boiling, stir in half cup flour, ono 
 cup of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs; beat well together. Cook long 
 enough nut to have a raw taste; add-juice and grated rind of one lemon, 
 and a little salt; beat the whites of the 2 eggs, with a cup of sugar, to a 
 stiff froth; spread over the pie when tilled, and brown in the oven. 
 
 German Puffs. — One pint milk, live eggs, two ounces butter, ten spoon- 
 fuls flour. Bake in cups. Sauce. 
 
 Rhubarb Pie. — Take the tender stalks of rhubarb, strip off the skin, and 
 out the stalks into very thin- slices. Line deep the plates with pie crust, 
 then put in the rhubarb in layers, each laj'er to be covered with a thick 
 conting of sugar. Put on your crust, press it down tight around the edge 
 of the plate, and prick the crust with a fork, so it will not burst in baking, 
 and let out the juices of the pie. Bake in a slow oven. Never stew rhu- 
 barb for pies before baking. 
 
 Custard Pie. — For a large pie, put in three eggs, a heaping table-spoon- 
 ful of sugar, ono pint and a half of milk, a little salt, and some nutmeg 
 grated on. For erust, use common pastry. 
 
 Rice Pie. — Boil your rice soft ; put one egg to each pie, one table-spoon- 
 ful of sugar, a little salt, and nutmeg. 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 31 
 
 Lemon Pie. — Take one leinon and a half, cut them up fine, one cup of 
 molasses, half a cup of sugar, two eggs; mix them together; prepare your 
 plate, with a crust in the bottom; put in half the materials, lay over a 
 crust; then put in the rest of the materials, and cover the whole with 
 another crust. 
 
 CUSTAKDS. 
 
 In making custards always avoid stale eggs. Never put eggs in very 
 hot milk, as it will poach them. Always boil custards in a vessel set in 
 boiling water. 
 
 Boiled Custards. — Boil a quart of milk with a bit of cinnamon and half 
 a lemon peel; sweeten it with nice white sugar; strain it, and when a Vt- 
 tle cooled, mix in gradually seven well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful 
 of rose-water; stir all together over a slow lire till it is of proper thick- 
 ness, and then pour it into your glasses. This makes good boiled custards. 
 
 Another Way. — Take six eggs, leave out the whites, mix your eggs and 
 sugar together, with some rose-water; then boil a pint of rich milk, and 
 ])ut in the eggs; let it simmer a minute or two, and stir it, to prevent its 
 curdling. 
 
 Baked Custard. — Two quarts of milk, twelve eggs, twelve ounces of 
 sugar, four spoonfuls of rose-water, one nutmeg. 
 
 Cream Custard. — Eight eggs, beat, and put into two quarts of cream ; 
 sweeten to taste; add nutmeg and cinnamon. 
 
 Custard to turn out. — Mix with the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, a 
 pint of new milk, half an ounce of dissolved isinglass; sweeten with loaf 
 sugar, and stir over a slow fire till it thickens; pour it into a basin, and 
 ftir it till a little cooled; then pour into cups, to turn out when quite cold. 
 Add spice as you like, to the beaten eggs. 
 
 CAKE. 
 
 Composition Cake. — Two and a quarter pounds of flour, one and three- 
 quarter pounds of sugar, one and a half pounds of butter, three pounds 
 of fruit, six eggs, one pint of milk, one cup of molasses, two glasses of 
 wine, two glasses of brandy, two teaspoons saleratus. Cloves, cinnamon, 
 nutmeg, &c. 
 
 Hpice Cake. — One pound flour, one pound sugar, Iralf pound butter, four 
 eggs, teacup cream, teaspoon soda, teaspoon cloves, one nutuieg, tea- 
 spoon cinnam.on, one pound raisins, one glass wine or brandy. 
 
 Cream Cake. — One teacup cream, two teacups sugar, three well-beaten 
 eggs, teaspoon saleratus dissolved in wineglass of milk, piece butter, size 
 half an egg, flour to make as thick as pound cake; add raisins, and spice 
 to taste; wine and brandy, if you like. 
 
 Girifierbread. — One pound flour, half pound sugar, the yolks of three 
 eggs, half pound of butter; ginger to taste. 
 
 Laura Kfene's Jelly Cake. — One teacup of sugar, one teacup of milk, 
 two teaspoon of cream of tartar, one pint of flour, one teaspoons of soda, 
 one egg, one tablespoon of melted butter; salt, spic-e, and bake in thin 
 sheets; when baked, spread jelly of any sort between the sheets. This 
 receipt makes one cake, in three small divisions. 
 
 A Fhiladeiplila. Sponge ^Cake. — Take ten eggs, one pound sugar, half 
 pound flour, and lemon juice, or extract, to flavor. Beat the whites to a 
 stifl' froth, warm and sift the flour; stir the yolks and sugar together, till 
 light, and add the whites and flour, half at a time, alternately. Stir tha 
 •whole gently, till bubbles ris^e to the surface. Bake in a modern oven. 
 
32 TilK liOUSE-KLtrER's GLIDE. 
 
 Older Cake. — Two pounds flour, half pound butter, one pound BUgar, 
 teaspoon saleratus, dissolved in one pint of cider; fruit and spice to taste. 
 
 An Excellent Plain Tea Cake. — 1 cup of white sugar, half a cup of but- 
 ter, I cup of sweet milk, 1 egg, one-half tea-spoonful of soda, 1 of cream 
 tartar, and flour enough to make it like soft gingerbread. Flavor with 
 the juice of a small lemon. This makes one good-sized loaf. 
 
 Anoihcr Fruit Cake. — \h pounds of sugar, 1] pounds of flour, f pounds 
 of butter, 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoon of soda, 1 gtass of wine, 1 of brandy, and as 
 much fruit and spice as you can aflbrd, and no more. 
 
 Doughnuts. — 2 cups sugar, 'I cups milk, 1 teaspoon saleratus, 3 eggs, 
 and a piece of butter half as large as a small hen's egg. 
 
 Crullers. — 6 tablespoons melted butter, 6 tablespoons sugar, 6 eggs, 
 and flour to roll. 
 
 Gingerbread Loaf. — 1 pound of flour, 1 pound of treacle, \ pound of 
 butter, 1 egg, 1 ounce of ginger, some candied peel, and a few caraway- 
 seeds, ground^ a tea-spoonful of soda. To be baked in a slow oven. Tho 
 flour to be mixed in gradually; the butter and treacle to be milk- warm; 
 the soda to be put in last. Let it stand half an hour, to rise. 
 
 Corn-Starch Cake. — ^ pound sugar, 4 ounces butter, 5 eggs, 1 tea-spoon- 
 ful cream tartar, h a tea-spoonful of soda, ^ pound of corn-starch, \ a gill 
 of sweet milk. 
 
 Short Cake. — 3 pounds flour, \ pound of butter, ^ pound lard. 1 tea- 
 fpoonful of soda, 2 of cream tartar; mix with cold milk. 
 
 For Strawberry Cake, open these when first baked ; take out some of the 
 crumb, and fill the inside with ripe strawberries, sugared; close, and bake 
 the cakes five minutes longer. 
 
 Railroad Cake. — A pint of flour, 3 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of cream of tar- 
 tar, half a tea-spoout'ul of soda, a table-spoonful of butter, a tea-cupful 
 of sugar; bake the batter in a square pan twenty minutes. 
 
 Mrs. Gauberts Coffee Cake. — 1 cup coiFee, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup sugar, 
 half cup butter, 1 teaspoon saleratus, 1 egg; spice and raisins to suit the 
 taste. 
 
 Soda Cake. — 4 eggs, 1 pint of sugar, 1 teacup of butter, 1 cup of sweet 
 milk, 1 quart of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 of cream tartar. 
 
 White Cake. — 3 cups of sifted flour, li} cups of sugar, 1 cup of sweet 
 milk, 1 egg, 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, 1 
 tea-spoonful of essence of lemon. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream ; 
 then add the milk (in which the soda should be dissolved), the egg, well 
 beaten, and the essence. Mix with the above 2 cups of the flour; and 
 lastly, add the third cup, in which the cream of tartar has been stirred ; 
 then bake in pans, or basins, in a quick oven. 
 
 ■ Mountain Cake. — 1 cup of sugar, 2 eggs, half cup of butter, half cup of 
 milk or water, 2 of fl(Air, tea-spoonful of cream tartar, half tea-spoonful 
 of soda, nutmeg. 
 
 Jumbles. — 1 })ound of butter, 1 of sugar, 2 of flour, 3 eggs, half cup of 
 •imr milk, 1 tea-spoonful of soda; roll in white coflee sugar. This will 
 jiiaKe a large uaich. If a> small quantity be wanted, take proportionately 
 less of material. 
 
 Ginger Snaps — 1 cur» of butter 1 nf au<riu' i ^f molasses, half cup of 
 ginger, tea-spoonful of soda; mix stiif. 
 
 A Small Spo7ige Cike. — One cup of sugar, half cup of milk, one egg, two 
 tea-spoonfuls of c»eam tartar, one of soda; butter, size of an egg. 
 
 Whigs. — Mix half a pound of sugar with six ounces of buttei-, two eggs, 
 tea-spoonful cinnamon. Stir in two pounds flour, a teacup of yeast, milk 
 enough to make a stifl" batter; when light, bake in cups. 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 3S 
 
 Poor Matis Cake. — One cup sugar, half cup "butter, one c\ip sour cream, 
 one egg, flour enough to make a good batter, half tea-spoonful saleratus. 
 
 Fruit Cake. — 1^ pounds sugar, 1|- pounds flour, f of a pound butter, 6 
 eggs, a pint sweet milk, 1 tea-spoonful saleratus, 1 glass wine, 1 of brandy, 
 and as much fruit and spice as you can afibrd, and no more. 
 
 Cup Cake. — 5 cups flour, 3 cups nice sugar, 1 cup of butter, 4 eggs, 1 
 cup of good buttermilk, with saleratus enough to sweeten it; 1 nutmeg. 
 
 Cookies. — 1 cup of butter, 2 cups sugar, 1 cup of cold water; ^ tea-spoon- 
 ful of saleratus, 2 eggs; flour enough to roll, and no more. 
 
 Soft G-ingerbread. — 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 1 
 cup of buttermilk, 1 egg, saleratus and cloves. Mix pretty stiff". 
 
 Delicate Cake. — Nearl}^ 3 cups flour, 2 cups sugar, f of a cup of sweet 
 milk, whites of 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of cream tartar, ^ tea-spoonful of 
 soda, ^ cup of butter, lemon for flavoring. 
 
 Cream Cake, — 1 cup of cream, 1 cup of sugar, 2 cups flour, 2 eggs, tea- 
 spoonful of saleratus; flavor with lemon. 
 
 Sugar Gingerbread. — 1 pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 
 half a pound of butter, 5 eggs; roll very thin on flat tins; do not grease 
 the tins, but slip off' the cake, when baked, with a knife. 
 
 Wajfies. — 1 pound of flour, half pound butter, 4 eggs, 1 quart of milk, 
 1 tea-spoonful of yeast; boil the milk; stir in the butter; beat up warm, 
 and rise them. 
 
 Old Colony Cake. — Three eggs, one scant cup of butter, two and a half 
 caps of sugar, one cup of sour milk, three and two-thirds cups of flour, 
 even tea-spoonful of soda; spice to taste ; sift a little powdered sugar over 
 the top. 
 
 Mrs Work's Sponge Cake. — One coff*ee-cup flour, one coffee-cup sugar, four 
 eggs, one lemon. 
 
 Sponge Cake. — One pound powdered sugar, one pound flour, six eggs, 
 beaten separately, grated rind of one lemon, and part of the juice; one 
 tea-spoonful cream tartar, rubbed with the flour, half tea-spoonful soda, 
 dissolved in half tea-cupful cold water. 
 
 Every-day Fruit Cake. — One cup butter, two cups sugar, two cups sour 
 milk, two cups raisins, five cups tlour, tea-spoonful saleratus. Salt, cin- 
 namon, cloves, citron, and wine to taste. 
 
 Rice Cake. — Three-quarters pound rice flour, half pound butter, eight 
 fresh eggs, one pound sugar, half glass brandy. 
 
 Mrs. Holmes^ Liberty Cake. — One cup butter, two cups sugar, one cup 
 milk, one pint and a half flour, three eggs, salt and spices, three tea- 
 spoons Babbit's yeast powders. 
 
 Pound Cake. — One pound of flour, one pound of sugar, one pound of 
 butter, eight eggs, three spoonsfuls rose-water; beat the whites and 
 yt'lks separately; cream the butter, then add the sugar, .ittle at a time, 
 and beat till very light; then the flour by degrers. and the yelks, an^ 
 continue to beat; lastly, add the whites by degrees, beaten to a froth, 
 and continue beating till all are thoroughly mixed and very light. 
 
 Mea.'iure Ca/ce. — Four teacups of flour, two teacups of sugar, one and 
 a half teacups of butter, one glass of brandy, four eggs, and one 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Soft Gingerbread. — Two teacups of molasses, one teacup of milk, two 
 eggs, one teaspoon saleratus, and flour to make it thick. 
 
 Fannie^ s Cake. — Half a pound of butter, three quarters of a pound of 
 sugar, one pound of flour, four eggs, one cup of milk, one teaspoon of 
 soda. Cloves, cinnamon, mace, to taste, with or without fruit, as you 
 choose. Bake in a slow oven. 
 
 a 
 
M THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 
 
 BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 
 
 Mrs. Moulioti's New England Brow7i Bread. — To four cups of Indian 
 meal, and two of rye meal, add one quart of milk, (skimmed will do, 
 if perfectly sweet,) one cup of molasses, one tea-spoonful of saleratus, 
 and one dessert-spoonful of salt. Stir with a spoon, and bake without 
 rising. 
 
 Crackers. — One pint of water, one teacup of butter, one teaspoon ful 
 of soda, two of cream tartar, flour enough to make as stiff as biscuit. 
 Let them stand in the oven until dried through. They do not need 
 pounding. 
 
 Fop Overs. — Four cups of flour, four eggs, four cups of milk, piece 
 of butter size of two nutmegs, half teaspoon of salt, melt the butter. 
 
 Bread Cakes. — Soak some crusts of bread in milk, strain them through 
 the colender very fine, beat in four eggs, and a little flour, just suflicient 
 to thicken the substance; add one tea-spoonful of saleratus. Mix all to 
 make a thin batter, and bake on the griddle. 
 
 Artificial Oysters. — Grate as man}' ears of green corn as will make one 
 pint of pulp; add one tea-cupful of flour, half teacup butter, one egg, and 
 pepper and salt to suit your taste. Dropped and fried in butter. 
 
 Rye and Indian Johnny Cakes. — Two cups of rye, two cups of Indian 
 meal, a small tea-spoonful of saleratus, a little salt, suflRcient sour milk to 
 make a stiff" batter. Bake in cakes on a griddle; split open and butter 
 them; send to table hot. 
 
 Fan Doddlmgs. — Three teacups of fine rye meal, tliree teacups of Indian 
 meal, one egg, three table-spoonfuls of molasses; add a little salt and all- 
 spice; sufficient sweet milk to form a batter stiff enough to drop from a 
 spoon. Fry them in hot lard until a nice brown. 
 
 .Plain Corn Bread.^ but very Good. — One pint of sour milk, two eggs, 
 one tea-spoonful of saleratus, a little salt; make soft enough to pour out. 
 
 Cor7i Bread. — One quart of sour milk, 2 tea-spoonfuls of saleratus. 4 
 ounces of butter, tliree eggs, three table-spoonfuls of flour, and corn meal 
 sufficient to make a stiff" batter. 
 
 Fruit Fritters. — Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs, of whatever 
 richness you desire; stir into it either raspberries, currants, or any other 
 fruit. Fry in hot lard, the same as pancakes. 
 
 Mrs. Roberts' Boston Broxon Bread. — One heaping quart of rye flour, 1 
 do. of Graham flour, scanty quart of milk, same quantity of warm water, 
 coffee-cup of molasses, one penny's worth of baker's yeast, or one cofl^ee- 
 cup of home-made yeast, teaspoon saleratus, dessert-spoon of salt. Grease 
 an iron kettle, put in the mixture, and place immediately in a slow oven. 
 Bake six or seven hours. 
 
 Ground Rice Griddle Cakes. — Boil a quart of milk ; rub smooth a tea- 
 cupful of ground rice, in a gill or two of cold milk, and stir it into the 
 boiling milk; add a little salt, and while it is scaling hot, stir in flour 
 enough to make the right thickness for baking. When cool, add a teacup 
 of yeast, and four eggs. Let it rise light. 
 
 Rice Griddle Cokes. — Put a tea-cupful of rice into two tea-cupfuls of 
 water, and boil it till the water is nearly absorbed, and then add a pint 
 and a half of milk. Boil it slowly, until the rice is very soft. 
 
 Mujjins. — Melt half a teacup of butter in a pint and a half of milk; 
 add a little salt ; a gill of yeast, and four eggs ; stir in flour enough to make 
 a batter rather stitter than for griddle cakes. If kept in a moderately 
 warm place, it will rise sufliciently in eight or nine hours. 
 
 Rye Cake.— Yowv and a half cups rye meal, three eggs, one and a half 
 
THE nOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 35 
 
 tciippoons cream tartar, one teaspoon soda. Mix with milk, till about as 
 thick as fritters; little salt To be eaten hot. 
 
 Widoiu's Cake. — Two cups of Indian meal, three cups of wheat flour, 
 one pint of buttermilk, four table-spoons of molasses, two tea-spoons of 
 saleratus. To l)e eaten hot, with butter, for tea or breakfast. 
 
 Boiled Bread. — Two cups of Indian meal, two cups of rye, one of flour, 
 two-thirds cup of molasses, pint and a half of milk; a little salt, and a 
 large tea-spoonful of snlerntus; pour it into a long tin pail; put it into h 
 pot ; have just enough water to keep it boiling; cover tight, and not boil 
 into the pail, and keep it boiling three hours, and you will have a loaf of 
 bread without 'Any crust. 
 
 Rice Cakes for Breakfast. — Put half a pound of rice in soak overnight. 
 Early in the morning, boil it very soft, drain it from the water, mix with 
 it a quarter of a pound of butter, and set it away to cool. When it is 
 cold, stir it into a quart of milk, and add a very little salt. Beat six eggs, 
 and sift half a pint of flour. Stir the egg and flour alternately into the 
 rice and milk. Having beaten tiie whole very well, bake it on the griddle, 
 in cakes about the size of a small dessert-plate. Butter them, and send 
 them to table hot. 
 
 Lucy s Eye Cakes. — Four and a half cups rye meal, three eggs, ono 
 and a half teaspoon cream tartar, one teaspoon soda; salt, mix with meal 
 till as thick as pound cake. 
 
 To Make Good Ihtsk. — Take a piece of bread dough large enough to fill 
 a quart bowl, one teacup of melted butter, one egg, one tea-spoonful of 
 saleratus; knead quite hard, roll out thin, lap it together, roll to the thick- 
 ness of a thin biscuit, cut out with a biscuit mold, and set it to raise in a 
 warm place. From twenty to thirty minutes will gcmerally be sufficient. 
 Bake them, and dry thoroughly through, and you will have an excellent 
 rusk to eat with your coffee. You can make them with hop-yeast, and 
 sweeten them, too, if you please. I use milk 3'east. 
 
 Corn Bread. — Two cups Indian meal, one cup flour, two eggs, large tea- 
 spoonful melted butter, two small tea-spoonfuls cream tartar, one small 
 tea-spoonful soda, one large spoonful brown sugar dissolved in milk; of 
 which add enough to make it as soft as gingerbread. 
 
 Cocoa-Nui Cake^ No. 1. — One pound of battel', two pounds of sugar, two 
 grated cocoa-nuts — mixed well; one cup of milk and the milk of the 
 cocoa-nuts, one pound and three-quarters of flour, ten eggs, nutmeg if 
 desired, half tea-spoonful of soda. This quantity will make two loaves. 
 
 Cocoa-Nut Cake, No. 2. — One pound sugar, half pound butter, threo- 
 quai-ters of a pound flour, six eggs, and one cocoa-nut grated. Cream the 
 butter and sugar, add the yolks well beaten, next the whites well beaten, 
 then the (lour, and last the cocoa-nut. 
 
 Seed Cakes. — Eight cups of flour, three cups of sugar, one cup of butter, 
 one cup of cream — or milk, if j'ou cannot get cream — one tea-spoonful 
 saleratus, one cii^g, caraway seed to suit your taste. 
 
 Ginger Snaps. — Boil together one pint of molasses and tea-cupful of 
 butter. Let it stand till cool; add two tablespoons of ginger, and one tea- 
 spoonful of soda; flour to roll. Bake quick, in thin rounds, on a flat sheet. 
 
 Buns. — Ono cup butter, one cup sugar, half cup of yeast, half pint of 
 milk; make it stifl' with flour: add, if you like, nutmeg. 
 
 Silver Cake and Gold Cake. — One cup white sugar, half cup butter, 
 whites of Ave well-leaten eggs, quarter tea-spoonful soda dissolved in half 
 tea-cupful milk, three-quarters tea-spoonful cream tartar mixed with two 
 cups A' flour. Flavor with extract of bitter almonds. The yolks o£ these 
 five eggs, and the same ingredients, make Gold Cake. 
 
36 THE nOUSE-KEEI'Ell's GUIDE. 
 
 MEATS. 
 
 Roast Beef. — The tender-loin, and first and second cuts off the rack, are 
 The best roasting pieces — the third and fourth cuts are good, "When the 
 meat is put in the oven, a little salt should be sprinkled on it, and the 
 bony side turned toward the heat first. When the bones get well heated 
 through, turn the meat, and keep a brisk fire; baste it frequently while 
 roasting. There should be a little water put into the dripping pan when 
 the meat is put down to roast. If it is a thick piece, allow fifteen 
 minutes to each pound to roast it in — if thin, less time will be required. 
 
 Roast Veal. — Veal should be roasted brown, and if a filter or loin, be 
 sure and paper the fat, that as little of it may be lost as possible. When 
 nearly done, baste it with butter and dredge it with flour. 
 
 Roast Pork. — Pork should be well done, and requires to be baked a 
 long titne. Before roasting, score the skin across with a sharp knife, or 
 it will be difficult to carve. A spare-rib should be basted with a little 
 butter and flour, and sweet herbs, or sage and onions, as best suits the 
 taste. 
 
 Roast Turkey. — Let the turkey be picked clean, and washed and wiped 
 dry, inside and out. Have your stufiing prepared, fill the skin of the crop, 
 and also the inside; sew it up, put it in the oven, and roast moderately for 
 three hours. Put a little water in the pan, and baste the outside with a 
 little flour. 
 
 Chickens. — Prepare them as above, and bake in a quick oven for one 
 hour, more or less, according to size and age. 
 
 To Roast Geese and Ducks. — Boiling water should be poured all over 
 and inside of a goose or duck, before you prepare them for cooking, to 
 take out the strong oily taste. Let the fowl be picked clean, and wiped 
 dry with a cloth, inside and out; till the body and crop with stuffing; if 
 3-o'u prefer not to stuff" it, put an onion inside, and roast it brown. It will 
 take about two hours and a half. 
 
 Wild Fowls. — These fowls always require a brisk fire, and should be 
 roasted till they are a light brown, but not too much, otherwise they lose 
 their fiavor by letting the gravy run out. 
 
 Stuffing. — Take dry pieces of bread or crackers, chop them fine, put in 
 a small piece of butter, or a little cream, with sage, pepper, and salt, one 
 egg, and a small quantity of flour, moistened with milk. 
 
 Baked Tongue. — Season with common salt and saltpeter, brown sugar, 
 pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in fine powder, for a fortnight; then 
 take away the pickle, put the tongue into a small pan, lay some butter 
 on it, cover it with brown crust, and bake slowly, till so tender that a 
 gtraw would go through it. To be eaten when cold. It will keep a week. 
 To Boil a Calf's Head and Pluck. — Clean the head very nicely, and soak 
 it in water till it looks very white. The tongue and heart need longer 
 <;ooking than the rest. Boil these an hour and a half, the head an hour 
 and a quarter, and the liver an hour ; tie the brains in a bag, and boil 
 them one hour. Take up all at the same time; serve up the brains with 
 pounded cracker, butter, pepper, vinegar, and salt. To be eaten with 
 butter gravy. 
 
 To Boil a Turkey. — Stuff a young turkey, weighing six or seven pounds, 
 with bread, butter, salt, pepper, and minced parsley; skewer up the legs 
 and wings as if to roast;, flour a cloth, and pin around it. Boil it forty 
 minutes, then set oft' the kettle and let it stand, close covered, half an 
 hour more. The steam will cook it suflSciently. To be eaten with diawn 
 butter and stewed oysters. 
 
THE house-keeper's guide. 37 
 
 Beeffiieak. — Tlie tender loin is the best piece for broiling. A ste:ik 
 from the round or shoulder clod is good, and comes cheaper. If the beef 
 is not very tender, it should be laid on a board and pounded, before broil- 
 ing or fr^nng it. Lay it on a gridiron, place it on a hot bed of coals, 
 and broil it as quickly "as possible, without burning it. If broiled slow, it 
 will not be good. It takes from fifteen to twenty minutes to broil a steak. 
 For seven or eight pounds of beef, cut up about a quarter of a pound of 
 butter. Heat the platter very hot that the steak is to be put on, lay the 
 butter on it, take up the steak, salt and pepper it on both sides. Beef- 
 steak, to be good, should be eaten as soon as cooked. 
 
 Beef Sausages.— To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one pound and 
 a half of suet, and chop very linely ; season with sage in powder, allspice, 
 pepper and salt; have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat into 
 them. 
 
 Mrs. Peng's Potted Veal. — Three and a half pounds raw leg of veal 
 chopped, one heaping tablespoon salt, one do. black pepper, eight do. 
 pounded butter cracker, three do. cream or milk, piece butter size of an 
 egg, two eggs, one nutmeg; mold into a loaf, and put in a pan with a littlo 
 water, and sprinkle over it bits of butter, and some more pounded cracker: 
 bake two hours, and eat cold. 
 
 A Nice Way to Cook Chickens. — The following is highly recommended : 
 "Cut the chicken up, put it in a pan, and cover it over with water; let 
 it stew as usual, and when done, make a thickening of cream and flour, 
 adding a piece of butter, and pepper and salt; have made and baked a 
 couple of short cakes, made as for pie-crust, but rolled thin, and cut in 
 small squares. This is much better than chicken pie, and more simple to 
 make. The crust should be laid on a dish, and the chicken gravy put 
 over it while both are hot. 
 
 Pork Sausages, fine. — Have two- thirds lean and one-third fat pork; chop 
 rery fine. Season with one tea-spoonful of pepper, one of salt, threo 
 "jf pov/dered sage, to every pound of meat. Warm the meat, that you 
 can mix it well with your hands; do up a part in small patties, with a 
 .ittle flour mixed with them, and the rest pack in jars. "When used, do it 
 •ip in small cakes, and flour the outside, and fry in butter, or alone. They 
 should not be covered, or they will fall to pieces. A little cinnamon to a 
 part of them will be a pleasant addition. They should be kept where it 
 is cool, but not damp. They are very nice for breakfast. 
 
 Meat Pie. — Cut your meat (be it beef, veal, or mutton) into small pieces, 
 and stew till it is very tender; season with salt and pepper, and, if lean, 
 also a little butter, and thicken with flour, so as to make a tolerably thick 
 grav}'. Now place between two crusts, in a deep dish, and bake till the 
 crust is well done. Cold roast and boiled meats may be disposed of in this 
 way to very good advantage. Chicken pie is made in the same way. 
 
 Chicken Corn Pie. — A lady contributor sends us the following: First, 
 prepare two chickens as for frying; then put them down, and let them 
 stew in a great deal of good, rich, highly-seasoned gravy, until the}' are 
 just done; then have ready picked two dozen ears of corn ; take a very 
 sharp knife and shave them down once or twice, and then scrape tho 
 heart out, with the rest already shaved down; then get a baking-paii (a 
 deep one); place a layer of corn on the bottom of the pan, or dish, then 
 a layer of the chicken, and so on, until you get all the chicken in; then 
 cover with the corn, and pour in all the gravy, and put a small lump of 
 butter on the top, and set it to baking, in a not very hot oven. It does 
 not take long to cook : as soon as the corn is cooked, it will be ready to 
 send to the table. It can either be sent in the pan it is baked in, oi 
 
38 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 turned out into another dish. There must be a great deal of grav}'-, or it 
 will cook too dry. 
 
 A Nexo Receipt for Welch Rabbit. — Cut your cheese into small slips, if 
 soft; if hard, grate it down. Have ready a spirit uf wine lamp, &c., and 
 deep block tin di.sh; put m the cheese, with a lump of butter, and set it 
 ov«,'r the lamp. Have ready the yolk of an egg whipped, with half a glass 
 of Madeira, and as much ale or beer. Stir your cheese, when melted, 
 till it is thoroughly mixed with the butter; then add, gradually, the egg 
 and wine; keep stirring till it forms a smooth mass. Season with cayenna 
 and grated nutmeg. To be eaten with a thin, hot toast. 
 
 To Cook a Ham. — An excellent manner of cooking a ham is the follow- 
 ing: Boil it thi-ee or four hours, according to size; then skin the whole, 
 and fit it for the table; then set in the oven for half an hour, cover it 
 thickly with pounded rusk, or bread-crumbs, and set back for half an 
 hour longer. Boiled ham is alv/ays improved by setting it in an oven 
 for nearly an hour, until much of the fat dries out, and it also makes it 
 more tender. 
 
 To have Good Corned Beef. — Select a good, nice piece of fresh beef (a 
 briscott or flank piece is best), and put it in a pot of boiling water, and 
 throw in a handful of salt, or enough to make it sutficiently salt to taste, 
 and boil till tender. This will be far superior to any beef pickled in 
 brine. 
 
 Mock Terrapin — A Supper Dish. — Haifa calfs liver; season and fry 
 brown. Hash it, nofvery tine ; dust thickly with flour; a teaspoon mixed 
 mustard ; as much cayenne pepper as will lie on a half-dime: two hard 
 eggs, chopped line; a lump of butter as large as an egg; a teacup of 
 water. Let it boil together a minute or two. Cold veal will do, if livei 
 is not liked. 
 
 Mutton Haricot. — Take a loin of mutton, cut it into small chops, season 
 it with ground pepper, allspice, and salt; let it stand a night, and then frj; 
 it. Have good gravy, well seasoned with flour, butter, catsup, and pep- 
 per, if necessary. Boil turnips and carrots, cut them small, and add to 
 the mutton, stewed in the gravy, with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs and 
 forcemeat balls. Some green pickles will be an improvement. 
 
 Chicken Jeihj. — For chicken jelly, take a large chicken, cut it up into 
 very small pieces; bruise the bones, and put the whole into a stone jar, 
 with a cover that will make it water-tight. Set the jar in a large kettle 
 of boiling water, and keep it boiling for three hours. Then strain off the 
 liquid, and season it slightly with salt, pepper, and mace; or with loaf- 
 sugar and lemon juice, according to the taste of the person for whom it 
 is intended, lleturn the fragmciits of the chicken to the jar, and set it 
 again in a kettle of boiling water. You will tiiid that you can collect 
 nearly as much jelly by the second boiling. This jelly may be made of 
 an old fowl. 
 
 FISH, OYSTERS, ETC. 
 
 To Boil Fish. — Fill the fish with a stufling of chopped salt pork and bread, 
 or bread :ind butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sew it up; then 
 sew it into a cloth, or you can not take it up well. Put it in cold water, 
 with water enough to cover it, salted at the rate of a tea-spoonful of salt 
 to e:ich pi)und of fish; add about three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil 
 it slowly for twenty or thirty minutes, or till the fin is easily drawn out. 
 Serve with drawn butter and eggs, with capers or nasturtion in it. 
 
 Fish can be baked in the same way, except sewing it up in a cloth 
 Instead of this, cover it with egg and cracker, or butter crumbs. 
 
THE nOUSE-KEEPER's GUIDE. 39 
 
 2u Broil Fish. — Let it have been caught one day ; lay the inside on 
 the gridiron, and not turn it till it is nearly done. 
 
 F7-led Eels. — Parboil them a few minutes, then have youf fat ready 
 and fry them. An improvement is to dip them into an egg, and crumbs 
 of bread. 
 
 To Make a Chowder. — Lay some slices of good fat pork in the bottom 
 of your pot, cut a fresh cod into thin slices, and lay them top of the pork ; 
 then a layer of biscuit, and alternately the other materials, till you have 
 used them all ; then put in a quart of water. Let it simmer till the fish is 
 done. Previously to its beijig thoroughly done, add pepper, salt, and 
 such seasoning as you like, and a thickening of flour, with a cotlee-ciip of 
 good cream, or rich milk. 
 
 Clam Chowder is made in the same way, only the beads and hard 
 leathery parts must be cut off. 
 
 Oyster Soup. — Bring your water to a boil, and put in your oysters, and 
 let them boil up for a minute or so; season with butter, pepper, and salt. 
 You can use all water, all milk, or a part of both, for the soup. 
 
 To Stew Oysters. — Put the liquor in a sauce-pan, and when it all boils 
 up, add the oysters, and pour in a little milk; or, if you choose, water, 
 about a teacup to a quart of oysters. Let them boil up a minute, not 
 more; meantime, put in a small piece of butter, and dredge in some flour; 
 set the saucepan otf, and stir the oysters till the butter is melted. Lay 
 some crackers or toasted bread in the dish, and pour on the oysters. They 
 are very fine with roast or boiled turkey. 
 
 To Fry Oysters. — Make a batter of two eggs, three gills of milk, two 
 spoonfuls of flour, and some line bread-crumbs; beat it well; dip each 
 oyster into the batter, and fry in lard. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. — When your oysters are opened, take care of all the 
 liquor, and give them one boil in it. Then take the oysters out, and put 
 to the liquor three or four blades of mace; add to it some melted butter, 
 and some good cream ; put in oysters, and give them a boil. 
 
 Oyster Toast — Bruise one anchovy fine in a mortar; take twenty oys- 
 ters, cut off their beards, and chop them small. Mix the anchovy and 
 chopped oysters in a saucepan, with as much cream as will make them 
 of a good consistency ; add a little cayenne pepper; spread them, when 
 quite hot, on a round of hot, well buttered toast, cut as for anchovy toast. 
 
 Gratln oj Lobster. — Take out all the meat from a large lobster; then 
 wash the body, tail, and shells, if the lobster is first cut in halves down 
 the back; then dry and butter them, and sprinkle them with bread- 
 crumbs; chop up the meat fine, with a little parsley and chalot, a few 
 drops of essence of anchovies, a spoonful of vinegar, cayenne pepper, and 
 salt; a little bechamel sauce, and boil all well together: then add the 
 yolk of an egg; put it to cool ; then fill your shells, or paper-cases ; cover 
 it with bread-crumbs and some pieces of butter; brown them in the oven, 
 and dish on a napkin. 
 
 PRESERVES, JELLIES, JAMS, AND PICKLES. 
 
 Remarks. — Brass, iron, and copper kettles should never be used for 
 making preserves. Iron-ware, lined with porcelain or tin, is far prefer- 
 able, and not subject to the verdigris which acids produce on the others. 
 If obliged to use a brass or copper kettle, scour it perfectly clean, and 
 don't let your preserves stand in it one minute after they are done. It 
 is bud econtnny to use too little sugar in the preservation of fruit. When 
 it once begins to spoil, it can ne'<'er bo reinstated. Jellies, without suf- 
 
40 Tiit itOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 
 
 ficienl sugar, will not congeal. Preserves, to look clear and handsome, 
 should be made with loaf sugar. Snuill jars are preferable to large ones 
 in putting away preserves, as frequent exposure to the air is not good. 
 After pouring the preserves into jars, cut several round pieces of paper, 
 made to fit the mouth of the jar, and after laying one or two of them 
 over the fruit, pour upon it a tea-spoonful of good brandy; then cover 
 the jar closely with some paper, or bladder-skin, and tie it down in a man- 
 ner which will entirely exclude the air. If the preserves candy, after 
 being kept a short time, the jar should be placed in a kettle of water, 
 and permitted to boil from half to three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 !/b Preserve Citron. — Pare and cut open the citron ; clean out all, except, 
 the rind ; boil it till soft. To a pound of citron, add a pound of sugar, 
 and a lemon to each pound; put the sugar and lemon together, and boil 
 it till it becomes a sirup, skimming it well; then put the sirup and citron 
 together, and boil it an hour. 
 
 Another. — Cut otf the hard rind of the melon (which should be pre- 
 serving citron, not the green cantalope), and cut it in pieces of any size 
 and shape you choose; the slices should be from a quarter to half an 
 inch thick. Weigh your fruit, and to every pound add one of sugar. Put 
 the sugar in a preserving kettle, with a gill of Avater to each pound of 
 sugar, and some isinglass dissolved in warm water; it will require a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of isinglass to ever}' five pounds of fruit. When the sugar 
 is dissolved, put it over the fire, and boil and skim it. Then pour the 
 sirup out of the kettle, wash it, and return the sirup to it. Now put in 
 the fruit, and set it over a brisk fire, where it will boil rapidly. When 
 the fruit appears translucent when lield up toward the light, iL is done. 
 It will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half to cook it. 
 Then take it out, a piece at a time, spread it on dishes, and strain the 
 sirup in a pan. When the sirup is lukewarm, put your fruit in the jars, 
 and pour it over. Let them stand till next day; put brandy paper over 
 it, and paste them. This fruit may be flavored with lemons, sliced, and 
 preserved with it. Do not peel the lemons; cut them in thin slices, and 
 cook them with the fruit. To three pounds of fruit add one lemon. As 
 the citron makes a beautiful but tasteless preserve, it is necessary to fiavor 
 it with lemon, orange, ur some other fruit. If, when it is a little cool, it 
 should not taste sulticiently of the lemon, a few drops of the essence of 
 lemon may be added. 
 
 G cod Receipt for Citron Preserves. — Prepare the rind, cut into any form 
 you desire; boil very hard for thirty or forty minutes in alum water, 
 tolerably strong; take them from the alum water, and put into clear cold 
 water; allow them to stand over night; in the morning, change the water, 
 and put them to boil ; let them cook until they have entirely changed 
 color, and are quite soft; then make your sirup, allowing one and a-half 
 pounds of white sugar to one pound of fruit; then add your fruit, which 
 needs but little more cooking. Mace, ginger, or lemon flavors nicely. 
 This receipt is the best we ever saw. 
 
 To Preserve Watermelon Kinds. — Cut the melon rinds into strips, boil 
 them in weak pearlasli water fifteen minutes; then drain out the liquor. 
 Add a pound (»f loaf sugar to a j)ound of rind, and boil the whole about 
 two mumtes. The sirup will require to be scalded several times. 
 
 Cherries. — To a pound of cherries allow three-quarters of a pound of 
 fine loaf sugar; carefully stone them, and as they are done, throw part 
 of the sugar over them; boil them fast with the remainder of the sugar, 
 till the fruit is clear, and the sirup thick. Take ofl" the scum as it rises. 
 
 BLack Currants. — Gather the currants upon a dry day ; to every pound 
 
nllow half a pint of rod ourisint juico, atid a pound and a half of finely 
 pounded loaf sugar. With scissors, clip off the heads and stalks: put the 
 juice, currants, juid sugnr in m preservitig-pan : shake it frequently, till it 
 hoils: carefully remove tlje fruit from the sides of the pan, and take off 
 the scum as it rises: let it boil for ten or fifteen minutes. This preserve 
 is excellent, eaten with cream. 
 
 Preserved A'pi^lc!^. — Weigh equal quantities of good brown sugar and of 
 apples : peel, core, and slice them thin. Boil the sugar, allowing to eveiy 
 ^hree pounds a pint of water: skim it well, and boil it pretty thick: then 
 add the apples, the grated peel of one or two lemons, and two or throe 
 pieces of white ginger, if jou have it: boil till the apples fall, and look 
 clear and yellow. This pn^-erve will keep for year3. 
 
 Peach Preserves — Three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of 
 peaches ; put your sugar in the kettle, and put on water enough to make 
 a thick sirup; boil and skim it; then put in your fruit, and cook till done. 
 White sugar is b<st, but bnnvn will do. 
 
 Qui?ice Preserves. — Pare your fruit and cut into the proper size, and boil 
 in a very little water till they become sutRciently soft to run a brown- 
 straw through. Now put your sugar in the same water in which your 
 fruit was boiled, bring it to a boil, and skim; then add your fruit, and 
 cook till done, using the same proportion of sugar as in the peach pre- 
 serves. 
 
 Blackberry and Raf<}>berry Preserves. — To every pound of fruit, use 
 three-quarters of a pound of sugjir. Make a sirup of your sugar, boil and 
 skim; then add your fruit, and cook till done. 
 
 To Preserve PUmis. — Make a sirup of I'lean, brown sugar; clarify it; 
 when perfectly clear, and boiling hot, pour it over the plums, having 
 })icked out all the unsx)und ones, and stems; let them remain in the sirup 
 two days, then diain it off; make it boiling hot, skim it, and pour it over 
 again ; let theui remain another day or two, then pour them in a preserv- 
 ing kettle, over the fire, and simmer gently, until the sirup is reduced, and 
 thick or rich. One pound of sugar to each pound of plums. Small 
 damsons are very fine, preserved as cherries, or any other ripe fruit; clari- 
 fy the sirup, and, when boiling hot, put in the plums; let them boil very 
 gently until they are cooked, and the sirup rich. Put them in pots or 
 jars ; the next day secure as directed. 
 
 Tomaio Preserves. — Take the round' yellow variety of tomato, as soon 
 as they are ripe, scald and peel; then, to seven pounds of tomatoes add 
 seven pounds of white sugar, and let them stand o^'er night. Take the 
 tomatoes out of the sugar, and boil the sirup, removing the scum. Put 
 in the tomatoes, and boil gently fifteen or twenty minutes; remove the 
 fruit ngain, and boil until the sirup thickens. On cooling, put the fruit 
 into jars, and pour the sirup over it, and add a few slices of lemon to 
 each jar, and you will have something to please the taste of the most 
 fastidious. 
 
 Crab- Apple Jelly. — Jelly from any other tart apples can be made in the 
 same way as the following. The apples, however, should be sliced. The 
 crab-appies have a very delicate flavor — better for jell}' than that of other 
 apples. Pour them in a kettle v/ith just enough water to cover them, 
 and let them hoil four hours; then take them off the fire and rub them 
 through a colender; this will separate the seeds and skin from the 
 pulp; then strain them through a flannel bag. Then, to each pint of th« 
 juice thus strained, add a pound of white sugar, and boil for twenty 
 minutes; meanwhile skim, if necessary; then fill your glasses or molds, 
 and let them stand fur two or three' days in the sun, till sufiSciGntly 
 
42 THE IIOUSE-KEErER's GUIDE. 
 
 hardened. Dip in brandy a piece of unsized paper, and lay or. the top of 
 the jelly; then paste over the top of the mold a piece of lettei paper to 
 keep out the air, and the jelly is ready to be put away for use. 
 
 To make Good Apple Jellj/.— Take apples of the best quality and good 
 flavor, (not sweet), cut them in quarters or slices, and stew them till soft; 
 then strain out the juice, being very careful not to let any of the pulp go 
 through the strainer. Boil it to the consistency of molasses, then weigh 
 it, and add as many pounds of crushed sugar, stirring it constantly till the 
 sugar is dissolved. Add one ounce of extract of lemon to every twenty 
 pounds of jelly, and when cold, set it away in close jars. It will keep 
 good for years. Those who have not made jelly in this way will do well 
 to try it; they will find it superior to currant jelly. 
 
 Currant Jelly. — Pick fine red, but long, ripe currants from the steni ; 
 bruise them, and strain the juice from a quart at a time through a thin- 
 muslin; wring it gently, to get all the liquid; put a pound of white sugar 
 to each pound of juice; stir it until it is all dissolved; set it over a gentle 
 lire; let it become hot, and boil for fifteen minutes; then try it by taking 
 u spoonful into a saucer; when cold, if it is not quite firm enough, boil it 
 for a few minutes longer. Or, pick the fruit from the stems; weigh it 
 and put into a stone pot; set it in a kettle of hot water, reaching nearly 
 to the top; let it boil till the fruit is hot through, then crush them, and 
 strain the juice from them; put a pound of white sugar to each pint of 
 it; put it over the tire, and boil for fifteen minutes; try some in a saucer; 
 when the jelly is thick enough, strain it into small white jars, or glass 
 tumblers; when it is cold, cover with tissue paper, as directed. Glass 
 should be tempered by keeping it in v/arm v/ater for a short time before 
 pouring any hot liquid into it ; otherwise it will crack. 
 
 Currant Jellywithout Cooking. — Press the juice from the currants, and 
 strain it; to every pint put a pound of fine white sugar; mix them to- 
 gether until the sugar is dissolved, then put it into jars, seal them, and 
 expose them. 
 
 Cranberry Jelly, excellent. — Take any quantity of cranberries, and stew 
 them in a sufficient quantity of water till they are well done. Now strain 
 them through a piece of linen, or a sieve, and to each pint of the juice, 
 add one pound of white sugar, and boil till it jellies. This is superior to 
 any jelly ever made. 
 
 Compote of Apples. — Pare six large apples, cut them in half, and put 
 them into a pan, with a little water and lemon juice. Next, clarify half 
 a pound of sugar, skim it, and put the apples into it, adding the juice of 
 a lemon. Set the whole on a fire. Turn the apples frequently, and cook 
 them until they are sufficiently soft to be easily penetrated by a fork. 
 Then take them out; strain the sirup, and reduce it by boiling; strain it 
 again, and pour it over the apples. They may be served either hot or 
 cold. Cut the peel of a rosy apple into various devices, and lay them on 
 the apples, as a garnish. 
 
 JJricd Apple Jelly. — One quart of apples put in four quarts of water, 
 and allowed to stand all night; boil till the goodness is out of the apple; 
 strain to a quart of juice, add a pint of sugar, and boil till it comes to a 
 jelly. 
 
 Raspberry, Red Cicrrant, and Strawberry Jellies may be made by put- 
 ting the fruit into an earthen pan, bruising it with a wooden spoon, adding 
 a little cold water and some finely-powdered loaf sugar. In an hour or 
 two, strain it through a jelly bag, and to a quart of the juice add one 
 ounce of isinglass which has'been dissolved in half a pint of water, well 
 fikimmetl, strained, and h' lowed to cool; mix all well, and pour into an 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 43 
 
 flnrtl.en mold. Lemon juice should be added to jellies, in proportion to 
 their acidity. 
 
 Ap{)U Jelly, No. 2.— Pare, core, and cut thirteen good apples into 
 small bits; as they are cut, throw them into two quarts of cold water; boil 
 them in this, with the peel of a lemon, till the substance is extracted, and 
 nearly half the liquor wasted; drain them through a hair sieve, and to 
 a pint of the liquid add one pound of loaf sugar, pounded, the juice of 
 one lemon, and the beaten whites of one or two eggs; put it into a sauce- 
 pan, stir it till it boils, take off the scum, and let it boil till clear, and then 
 pour it into a mold. 
 
 Rafipberry Jam. — Weigh equal proportions of pounded loaf sugar and 
 raspberries; put the fruit into a preserving pan, and with a silver spoon 
 mash it well; let it boil six minutes; add the sugar, and stir well with tha 
 fruit. When it boils, skim it, and let it boil for fifteen minutes. 
 
 Strawberry Jam. — Gather the scarlet strawberries, when perfectly ripe, 
 bruise them 'well, and add the juice of other strawberries ; take an equal 
 weight of lump sugar, pound and sift it, stir it thoroughly into the fruit, 
 and set on a slow fire; boil it twenty minutes, taking off the scum as it 
 rises; pour it into glasses or jars, and, when cold, tie them down. 
 
 White or Red Currant Jam. — Pick the fruit very nicely, and allo^ 
 an equal quantity of tinely-pounded loaf sugar; put a layer of eacn. 
 alternately, into a preserving pan, and boil for ten minutes; or they rnay 
 bo boiled the same length of time in sugar previously clarified, and boiled 
 like cand}^ 
 
 Currant Jam. — Pick the currants free from stems ; weigh three-quarters 
 of a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit ; strain the juice from half 
 of them, then crush the remainder and the sugar together, and put them 
 with the juice in a kettle, and boil until it is a smooth jellied mass; have 
 a moderate fire, that it may not burn the preserves. 
 
 To Keep Red Gooseberries. — Pick gooseberries when fully ripe, and for 
 each quart take a quarter of a pound of sugar and a gill of water ; boil 
 together until quite a sirup; then put in the fruit, and continue to boil 
 gently for fifteen minutes; then put them into small stone jars; when cold, 
 cover them close; keep them for making tarts or pies. 
 
 Dried Peaches. — Peaches, as usually dried, are a very good fruit, but 
 can be made vastly better, if treated the right way. Last season, the re- 
 ceipts which had quite a circulation in the papers, of drying the fruit by 
 a stove, after halving it, and sprinkling a little sugar into the cavity left 
 by the extracted pits, v/as tried in our family. The fruit was found to bo 
 most excellent ; better, to the taste of nine persons out of ten, than of 
 any other peach preserves, by far. The peaches, however, were good ones 
 before drying; for it is doubtful whether poor fruit can be made good by 
 that process, or any other. 
 
 Tomato Sauce. — -Vjather your tomatoes when fully ripe, and, after wash- 
 ing tliein, mash them in some suitable vessel. Then place them in a 
 kettle over a moderate tire, and when just warmed through, press u 
 calender down upon them — then dipping from the colender all the 
 watery juice possible. After boiling a short time, strain the mass through 
 a wire sieve, just fine enough to retain the rind of the fruit ; then return 
 it to the kettle, and boil it down to the desired consistency, (some prefer 
 it thin, as it retains more of the flavor,) taking all care that it does not 
 become scorched in the process. Heat the bottles you intend to use in a 
 steamer, to boiling heat, and while they retain this heat, fill them with 
 sauce in a boiling state. Then cork them immediately with good corks, 
 and place them where they will cool slowly. Tomatoes, thus prepared, 
 
44 THE HOUSPMCEErER's fJUIDE. 
 
 will keep good, and retain all tbeir original freshness and flavor, utitii 
 Iheir season conies round again. 
 
 Tomato Catsup. — Wash your tomatoes and cut thenaup; boil and strain 
 iheni through a sieve. To two quarts of the juice, add I pint of strong 
 cider vinegar, and mace, cloves, spice, and cayenne to taste. Boil 15 or 20 
 njiimtes, and, when cool, bottle for use. 
 
 To Fickle Cucwnbers. — Wipe and put them in salt water, strong enough 
 to bear an es:,^^ in which let them remain six or seven days; then scald iu 
 vinegar to green them; after which put them in cold, spiced vinegar. 
 Hcans are done the same, 
 
 Svperior Method. — Put them into salt water for three days, then scald 
 weak vinegar and turn to them, and let them remain three more days, 
 M'hen you must scald your new vinegar, with a few onions, ginger-root, 
 and horseradish, and set them in a cool place for use. 
 
 To Fickle Ihmatoes. — Always use those which are thoroughly ripe. The 
 «;mall round ones are decidedly the best. Do not prick them, as most 
 receipt-books direct. Let them lie in strong brine three or four days ; 
 then put them in layers in your jars, mixing them with small onions and 
 pieces of horseradish. Then pour on the vinegar, (cold), which should 
 ho first spiced, as in the receipt given for peppers ; let there be a spice- 
 Lag to throw into every pot. Cover them carefully, and set them by ia 
 the cellar for a full month before using. 
 
 To Keep Jams^ Jellies, and Freserves from Meld. — The closet in which 
 sweetmeats are kept should be perfectly dry and cool,- If that i« the case, 
 and the following receipts used, preserves will keep for years. Cut a round 
 circle of writing paper, the size of the interior of the pot, and one about 
 an inch and a half larger. Take the white of an egg, and a paste-brush, 
 and lay a coating of white of egg over the surface of the smaller circle, 
 and then lay that piece on the top of the jam, with the untouched side of 
 the paper next to the jam. Take the larger piece, and coat that on one 
 side with white of egg, and let t-he surface thus coaled be the (me turned 
 inward. This circle is to ct>ver the pot; and the white of egg renders it 
 adhesive, and pastes it firmly down all around the edge of the crack, 
 
 Fatent Honey. — Take five })ounds of good common sugar, two pounds 
 of water, gradually bring to a boil, skimming well ; when cold, add ono 
 pound bee's honey, and four drops essence of peppermint, 
 
 Jiuying Food. — The following valuable suggestions, which we approve, 
 are from the pen of Mrs. Jlenry Ward Beecher: ''In buying l)eel', re- 
 member that ox beef is the best. The animal should be five or six years 
 old before it is killed, if you would have the best beef. If well fed it Avill 
 bt' fine-grained ; the lean should be a bright red color, and well mingled 
 with fat. If there is not a good quantity of fat running through it, the 
 beef will be tough and not well fiavored. The fat should be a rich clear 
 white, just tinged with yellow, and the suet also. Heifer or cow beef is 
 paler than ox beef, firmer grained, the fat a clear v/hite, and the bones 
 smaller, but it is not as rich or juicy, A\' hen the animal is too old, or 
 badly fed, it is of a dark red, the fat skinny and tough; and in very old 
 beef, a horny substance will be found running'through the ribs. When it 
 is pressed, if the meat rises quickly from the finger, it is good ; but if the 
 finger-dent rises slowly, or not at all, do not buy it ; it is poor meat. The 
 sirloin and the middle ribs are the best for roasting. If you buy sirloin, 
 have it cut from the ' chump end,' which has a good undercut or fillet. 
 The rump is often preferred by epicures; but being too large lo roast 
 Avhole, a roast is usually cut from what is called the 'chump end.' Por- 
 
THE iiouse-keeper's guide. 45 
 
 ter-house steak is the best for broiling, but not the most economical. One 
 rib is too small for baking ; it dries in cooking, and it is not good econ- 
 omy unless you take out the bone, roll the meat and stuff it, when it 
 makes a nice dish for a small family. 
 
 "Veal should be small and white, tlie kidney well covered with fat. 
 If the calf is over ten weeks old, the meat will be coarse. The flesh 
 should be dry and white. If coarse-grained, moist and clammy, have 
 nothing to do with it. The fillet, loin, and shoulder are the best for 
 roasting. The breast, well cut and jointed, makes a fine stew or pot-pie, 
 and is better economy than when baked or roasted. Veal is excellent to 
 make 'stock ' for soups; the knuckle or the poorer parts of the neck are 
 just as good for souji as the more expensive parts. 
 
 " Mutton should be dark colored, and have plenty of fat. The color 
 determines the age, and age is considered a mark of excellence in mutton. 
 All the joints may be roasted ; but the saddle, and the next to that the 
 haunch, the leg and loin undivided, are the best. Chops are cut from the 
 loin ; cutlets from the leg, the best end of the neck or thick end of the 
 loin. The leg and neck are often boiled. 
 
 '^ Lamb should be small, pale red, and fat. Best roasted. The leg, when 
 the lamb attains a good size, is excellent boiled. 
 
 ''Pork should never be bought except from a butcher whose honesty you 
 are sure of, and who knows where the pork was fattened. It is not a very 
 healthy meat at best, and none should be used unless corn-fed. There is 
 much bad or diseased pork sold, and it is very dangerous food. If the 
 flesh feels flabby or clammy to the touch, it is not good, and should not 
 on any account be used. If there are kernels in the fat, let it alone. The 
 fat should be hard, the lean white and fine in the grain, and the rind thin 
 and smooth. 
 
 "As soon as your meat of any kind is brought home from the butcher's, 
 wipe it with a clean dry cloth. If in summer you find any ' fly-blows,' 
 which is very common, cut them out Jit once, and no harm will be done. 
 In the loins a long pipe runs by tbe bone; that should be taken out im- 
 mediately, or in a few hours it will taint and spoil the whole joint. If the 
 meat is not to be used at once, dredge it with pepper. Powdered charcoal 
 dusted over meat will help to keep it sweet, or will remove any taint 
 already begun. It is wise to keep charcoal on hand during the warm 
 weather ; it is wonderfully eflicacious in preserving meat ; and if dusted 
 over it while hanging, it can be washed off when you are ready to cook 
 it. Most meat is more tender and easily digested if kept hanging some 
 time, and charcoal is a great and reliable aid in preserving it. Lamb and 
 veal can not be kept as safely as beef and nmtton. 
 
 " In choosing fowls, bear in mind that the male bird, if young, will 
 liave a smooth leg and a short spur, eyes bright and full, feet supple. 
 The hen may be judged by the same signs, and if these are not found, be 
 sure the birds are stale and old. 
 
 " Ducks, geese, and pigeons should have pliable feet ; if stiff, they are 
 old. In all, the vent should be firm ; if discolored or flabby, they are 
 stale. This last sign should be remembered in judging of all poultry or 
 game. 
 
 " The eyes of fish should be bright, the gills clear red, body stiff, and 
 smell not unpleasant, or rather, not stale ; for we imagine that fish can 
 never be of a pleasant smell, however palatable thev may be to the 
 taste." 
 
MEDICAL DEPARTMENT. 
 
 In giving this department to the public, we do not intend to give speci- 
 fies for every disease to which human flesh ig heir; but only a limited 
 number of prescriptions, which have been thoroughly tested nnd proved 
 fuccessful in the treatment of well-known diseases, which seem to batiio 
 the skill of the " liegular Faculty;" and also a few phiin directions to bo 
 pursued, in cases of emergency, where the services of a physician can not 
 be immediately procured. In the first place, the limits which we have 
 set for the work will not admit of the space necessary for a detailed de- 
 scription of all diseases and their remedies, as this would require a volume 
 of several hundred pages. Then, again, no one but a reguhtr physician 
 is competent to decide upon the nature of all diseases, and to prescribe 
 their remedies under the existing circumstances, as there are scarcely two 
 cases, even in the same disease, that requii'e to be treated exactly alike. 
 Those, however, which we have given, are the best that can be com- 
 pounded for the purposes for which they are designed ; as they are com- 
 posed of nearly all plants known to the materia medica, the properties 
 of which act specifically upon the functions of the organs designed to be 
 affected. Being purely vegetable, no harm can result from their use; 
 besides, they are far Jiiore efficacious than the "mineral poisons" usually 
 employed by the Faculty for the same purpose. 
 
 The vegetable materia medica, which we have compiled from the United 
 States Dispensatory, gives the reader a knowledge of the properties of 
 the remedies which he employs; besides, it supplies him with a basis, or 
 the data, for compounding remedies for the treatment of other diseases 
 than those here prescribed for. 
 
 Cough. Siru]}. — Make a strong decoction of hoarhound, liverwort, ground 
 iv}', and licorice root; sweeten with honey and loaf sugar, to make a thick 
 sirup, and then boil for fifteen or twenty minutes, If the cough be severe, 
 take a tal)le-spoonful very often. If the throat be sore, add a little gum 
 camphor to the mixture. 
 
 A Sure Ourefor Fever and Ague. — Take best Peruvian bark, two ounces; 
 wild cherry-tree bark, two ounces; poplar, one ounce; ginger, one table- 
 spoonful ; cinnamon, one drachm; balmony, one ounce; capsicum, one 
 table-spoonful; cloves, quarter ounce. Have all finely pulverized, and put 
 in tvvo quarts good port wine, and let it stand one or two days before 
 Ubing. Take a wine-ghissful ftjur or five times a day, and the disease will 
 soon disiippear. 31uch better and safer than quinine. 
 
 The Best Tonic and Cathartic for Li vcr Covipiaint and Dyspepsia extant. 
 — Chamomile flowers, two ounces; dandelion root,four ounces; yellow dock 
 root, three ounces; burdock root, three ounces; sarsaparilla, three ounces; 
 blood root, two ounces; liverwort, one ounce; hops, two ounces; wild 
 cherry-tree bark, two ounces. Put all these together (in a crude state) in 
 one vessel, and cover with water, at least three quarts or more, and steep 
 (not boil) for several hours ; then strain through a piece of muslin. 
 There should be at least tliree pints of the liquid after it is strained, and 
 it must not be allowed to evaporate while steeping, so there will be a less 
 quantity; if it should, add a little more water before straining. The 
 lafciiL way is to keep ou wuLcr enoui^U while steeping, so that when you 
 46 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 47 
 
 press down with the bowl of a spoon, the writer will alw:\3'-s come over 
 the place so pressed. Having strained the liquor from the dregs, add 
 three-fourths of a pint of London Dock or Holland gin, one and a-half 
 ounces rhubarb, and two table-spoonfuls of ground ginger. Take one 
 or two table-spoonfuls night and morning (on retiring and getting up), or 
 just enough to keep the bowels gently open. 
 
 Let dyspeptics persevere in taking this regular!}', live upon a light and 
 nourishing diet, keep the body clean, by frequent ablutions, and take 
 plenty of exercise in the open air, and their ailments will soon disappear. 
 
 This cured my dyspepsia and liver complaint of fifteen years standing, 
 raised me from a mere living skeleton, with my weight less than ninety 
 pounds, to one hundred and fifty-live pounds, being twenty pounds more 
 than I had ever before weighed. 
 
 A Plen.scDit and Healthy Tonic for Restoring the Aj^jtetite. — Take one 
 ounce pulverized golden seal, one ounce pulverized balmony, one ounce 
 pulverized poplar, half ounce pulverized cloves, and put into one quart 
 of good wine (currant or ihubarb is best), with a tea-cupful of loaf sugar. 
 Let it stand a day or two, shaking it occasionally, and take a wine-glass- 
 ful three times a da}', before meals. This is an excellent tonic, and may 
 t>e taken with advantage in connection with the one above. 
 
 Nervi7ie for Female Weakness and Nervous Debility. — Take one ounce 
 Valerian, one ounce yarrow, one ounce golden rod, one ounce unicorn, one 
 ounce lady's slipper, one ounce scull-cap, one ounce ginseng (all in a 
 crude state), and steep in three pints of water till evaporated to one, when 
 strained. Then mix with one quart good port wine, and add one ounce 
 pulverized golden seal, half ounce pulverized cloves, and sweeten with 
 loaf sugar to taste. 
 
 Dose — Half a wine-glass three times a day, before meals. Good in colic, 
 pains in the stomach, flatulency, &c. 
 
 Alterative Sirup for Scrofula, and all Diseases arising from Impurity of 
 the Blood. — Yellow dock, tv/o ounces; sarsaparilla, two ounces; prickly 
 ash, two ounces; wintergreen, two ounces; blue flag, two ounces; bitter- 
 sv/eet, two ounces. Put all together, in a crude state, and steep in three 
 quarts of water till evaporated to one, when strained. Now add one pint 
 good London Dock, or Holland gin, one ounce extract of dandelion, and 
 one ounce of sulphur; sweeten with loaf sugar to taste. Dose — A table- 
 spoonful three times a day before meals. If the bowels be costive, add 
 one ounce pulverized rhubarb to the mixture. 
 
 Rheumatic Drops, or No. 6. — Take gum-myrrh, one pound; golden seal, 
 four ounces; African cayenne, one ounce; put these into a jug, with two 
 quarts best brandy ; shake several times a day for eight or ten days, when 
 it is fit for use. This is a stimulant and tonic, and an excellent remedy 
 for rheumatism, fresh wounds, bruises, sores, and sprains. It is also us£<l 
 in hemorrhage, mortification, «&c. Dose — from one to two tea-spoonfuls 
 in warm water. 
 
 Comjfositio^i Powders. — Take one pound fine bayberry bark ; one-half 
 pound ginger; three ounces of common cayenne, and mix them all to- 
 gether. Dose — A tea-spoonful in a cup two-thirds full of boiling water ; 
 sweeten, and add a little milk. 
 
 An Excellent Liniment for Cuts, Bruises, Sores, ^c. — Take four ounces 
 balm gilead buds, and steep for two or three days in one quart of alcohol; 
 then turn ofi" the liquor, and add three ounces turpentine, four ounces 
 gum camphor, three ounces oil arganum, two ounces sweet oil. For cuts, 
 bruises, wounds, &c., in either man or beast, it has no equal. For old 
 Bores and ulcers, first cleanse them thoroughly with n wash made of witch 
 
48 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 buzel, sumach, nnd oldor bark; then use the liniment. If thoy result from 
 iin})urity of the blood, or are of long standing, then use the alterative 
 siruj) in connection with it. 
 
 Diarrheo Cordial a?id Cholera Sirup. — Take three ounces blackberry root, 
 one ounce golden seal, one ounce gum m^'rrh, one ounce bayberry, ono 
 ounce evan root, one ounce sumach (leaves and berries), one ounce vale- 
 rian, one ounce capsicum, one ounce allspice, one ounce ginger root. Put 
 fill, in a crude state, together, and steep in six quarts of water till evapor- 
 jiicd to two after it is strained; then add two quarts of good brandy, two 
 ounces extract of dandelion, from three to lour ounces of pulverized 
 cloves, and six or eight ounces of loaf sugar. Dose — for an adult, from 
 one to two table-spoonfuls, in a little warm water, as often as the sever- 
 ity of the case may require. If taken freely, in large doses, in cases of 
 rliolera, it is a sure cure. Every person having a friend in the army 
 should nuike up a good-sized bottle, and send it to him. (If all the iii- 
 giL'dients can not at all times be obtained in compounding medicinea 
 liom these receipts, it will not always matter particularly if a portion 
 le left out, as the properties of many are identical. By reference to tho 
 Materia Medicahere appended, it can be seen what the properties of each 
 are, and then determined whether it be absolutely essential.) This medi- 
 cine is a powerful tonic and astringent; but an astringent is not to be 
 taken in all cases where there is looseness of the bowels. If the dis- 
 charges be dark-colorod, and of an offensive character, they show a bil- 
 ious and morbid condition of the stomach and bowels, which require to 
 be thoroughly cleansed with some mild cathartic before any attempt is 
 made to check them, when, as a general thing, the bowels will regulate 
 themselves without any further treatment. -If, however, watery dis- 
 charges continue after the bilious matter has all passed off, then some 
 astringent is necessary. Dysentery is a disease of the colon (lower bowel), 
 caused by morbid irritation and inflammation, producing hemorrhage and 
 intense pain, and bearing down; in which case astringents, especially 
 those of a hot and irritating nature, are not to be taken, as they onlj'- 
 tcrve to keep up the inflanunation and enhance th^ dilficulty; but sooth- 
 ing emoheats, in the form of clysters, must be given in their stead. For 
 tins purpose, infuse one tea-spoonful of the pulverized leaves of lobelia , 
 in ono pint of slippery-elm water, and inject into the bowels about six 
 ounces (a common tumbler full) at a time. If the blood}^ discharges and 
 jiains continue, also apply warm fomentations to the bowels, and give 
 fieely of hot ginger tea, so as to get up an action on the surface, which 
 will withdraw the blood from within, and allow the infliimmation to 
 sul)side. If the slippery-elm water and lobelia can not be obtained right 
 away, use starch- water. A lobelia emetic, for the purpose of cleansing 
 liie stomach, can be taken with advantage in this, and nearly all dis- 
 eases of the bowels. If these simple rules were strictly observed in all 
 ca.-es of dysentery, many valuable lives might be saved, that otherwise 
 would be sacriliced by the ignorance of the patient's friends, or tho empiri- 
 cism of "quacks," who make no distinction in the treatment of diarrhea 
 atid dysentery. 
 
 The following receipts, for the cure of hydrophobia, diphtheria, &c., 
 are taken from the papers designated in their respective headings, and 
 we give them for what they are worth : 
 
 Rctutdy /or Dijihtlieria. — The following receipt for diphtheria — a dis- 
 ease that is becoming dangerously prevalent throughout the country — we 
 copy from the New York Tribune : We have received a receipt for the 
 euro of diphtheria from a physician, who says that of one thousand cases in 
 
THE house-keeper's guide. 4^ 
 
 which it has been used, not a single patient has been lost. The treatment 
 consists in thoroughly swabbing the back of the mouth and throat with 
 a wash made thus: Table-salt, two drachms; black pepper, golden seal, 
 nitrate of potash, alum, one drachm each. Mix and pulverize; put into 
 a teacup, which half fill with boiling water; stir well, and then fill up 
 with good vinegar. Use every half hour, one, two, and four hours, as 
 recovery progresses. The patient may sv/allow a little each time. Apply 
 one ounce each of spirits of turpentine, sweet oil, and aqua ammonia, 
 mixed, to the whole of the throat, and to the breast-bone every four hours, 
 keeping flannel to the part. 
 
 Cure of Hydrophobia. — The New York Worlds Paris correspondence 
 says : Some of the medical journals are giving publicity now to an alleged 
 cure for this terrible disease, which is communicated to them by the liev. 
 K. P. Legrand, who has been for many years a missionary in Syria, where 
 hydrophobia is quite common, and where, he says, he has tried this rem- 
 edy in sixty dilferent cases, and performed sixty cures. If this be so, and 
 there certainly is no reason to doubt the good father's word, the simple 
 remedy which he proposes should be made known all over the world. It 
 is this : take three handfuls of the leaves of datura stramonium, boil them 
 in a quart of water till it is reduced to a pint, and make the patient drink 
 the whole as soon as possible after the bite. A violent madness will 
 ensue, but this is of short duration. A profuse perspiration follows, and 
 in twenty-four hours the patient is cured. Cauterization should also be 
 resorted to as quickly as possible, although the reverend father states that 
 be has seen many cures effected where this has not been done. 
 
 Important Medical Discovery. — A London correspondent of the Liber- 
 ator gives this account: — A great discovery is just now engaging the 
 attention of the scientific and medical world. Few English names are 
 more familiar to Americans than that of Dr. John Chapman, once the 
 leading publisher of heretical books, now editor of the Westminister, and 
 always a devotee of science and medicine. He is well acquainted with 
 many scientific and literary Americans; and many of them, among others 
 Mr. Emerson, have resided in his house when in England. This Dr. 
 Chapman has for years engaged in studies and experiments connected 
 with the nervous system alone, with such men as Dr. Brown, Sequard, and 
 Claud Bernard, of Paris. For the past year he has been proving a 
 tremendous discovery — namely the cure of epilepsy, and many diseases 
 hitherto deemed incurable, by means of an external application of ice and 
 hot water in India rubber bags, at various parts of the spinal cord, acting 
 thus upon the sympathetic nerve, and, through it, upon the most important 
 and vital regions of the body. Many eminent physicians have accom- 
 panied Dr. Chapman to see the marvels which he had wrought upon pa- 
 tient, who had long ago despaired of health. Some physicians, among 
 others Dr. Wilkinson (though a homeopathist) have so recognized the 
 importance of the discovery as to commit to Dr. Chapman's care somo 
 of their patients. Cases are attested where a man for six years had three 
 fits (on an average) daily, and a girl who had two from the ages of thir- 
 teen to seventeen, had been entirely cured by ice. Just as wonderful 
 have been the cures of paralysis. Many of the worst and most inveterate 
 female diseases have yielded to the new cure. The treatment is as simple 
 as it is grand. Any one who is troubled by the pressure of blood on the 
 brain, will find that by holding a bag of ice on the nape of the neck ten 
 minutes, an equable flow of blood can be secured. Those who are troub- 
 led with habitual cold feet, may find relief by applying ice to the small 
 of the back in the lumbar regions. It is hard to estimate the importance 
 4 
 
50 THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 
 
 of this discovery, which will, ore loni^, bo ranked by the side of Jenner. 
 {Several hospilals are already under Dr. Chapman's practice, and as yetno 
 onPi can bring forward an instance of failure. 
 
 Care for 8niaU-Pox. — The German Jieforrned Messenger has received 
 a letter from a friend in China, in which it is stated a great discovery is 
 reported to have recently been made by a surgeon of the English army 
 in China, in the way of an efiectual cure of small-pox. The mode of 
 treatment is as follows: When the preceding fever is at its hight, and just 
 before the eruption appears, the chest is rubbed with croton oil and tar- 
 taric ointment. This causes the whole of the eruption to appear on that 
 part of the body, to the relief of the rest. It also secures a full and com- 
 jiiete eruption, and thus prevents the diseases from attacking the internal 
 organs. This is said to be the established mode of treatment in the En- 
 glish army in China, by general orders, and is regarded as a permanent 
 cure. 
 
 How to Prevent the Defacing Marks of Small-Pox. — "While it is known 
 to medical men that a total suppression of the eruption of small-pox will 
 endanger the life of the sufferer, it is proved, by experience, that such a 
 suppression can be undertaken on small portions of the body, for instance 
 the face, without harm. The pomade of Baudeloque, made of six parts 
 of pitch, (pix nigra), ten parts of yellow wax, and twenty-four parts of 
 mercurial ointment, will answer that purpose. When used, it should be 
 warmed and all parts of the skin of the face be covered, and kept covered, 
 continually, for the space of four days; the salve, if it proves efficacious, 
 must be applied on the flrst or second day the eruption has broken out. 
 Eour days after the application, when removed, the eruption will have 
 remained papulut^e, and the spots will disappear in time, without leaving 
 any marks behind. Having experienced the good effects from the admin- 
 istration of this remedy, we hope the press of this city will promulgate 
 it by publication, and earn their thanks from the smiling faces of those 
 whom it will have spared a frightful disfiguration. 
 
 The French Physicians are now using gutta-percha, dissolved in chlo- 
 roform, in the same way, which is more simple, and answers every pur- 
 pose. — N. 0. True Delta. 
 
 KULES FOR THE PRESERVATION OF THE HEALTH. 
 
 "Always keep the head cool, and the feet warm." Go to bed early, and 
 get up at the peep of day. Never be in a hurry when you eat, bul nuts- 
 ticate your food well, and thoroughly mix it with the saliva of the mouth 
 before swallowing, which is one-half the process of digestion. Above all 
 never wash your food down, half masticated, with a pint or more of tea 
 or coffee. Too much fluid on the stomach dilutes the gastric juice, pie- 
 vhuts its direct and immediate action, on the food, and, consequently, 
 retards the process of digestion till the fluids have been absorbed. Drink 
 very moderately with your meals, and nothing for two and a-half or three 
 liours afterward. Avoid too much greasy and fatty substances. The too 
 v-onimon practice of eating fat pork is the cause of more scrofula than all 
 other causes combined. Fresh bread and hot biscuits are decidedly in- 
 jurious, and unflt to be eaten. Eat regularly, and never between meals. 
 
 Whatever may be your occupation, take plenty of daily exercise in the 
 open air. If you can not work in the garden, saw and split wood, or do 
 something else useful ; walk and run briskly, or ride on horseback. Dont 
 say that you have not time; for, in the long run, 3'ou will find it the best 
 "put in" of any thing which you have done. 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 51 
 
 Always Lave your house, especially the sleeping nparlraent, well venti- 
 lated, be it warm or cold weather. 
 
 JSIever sit in a room, on a cold or damp day, without a fire, if 3'ou are 
 in any degree chilly and uncomfortable without one. But few causes 
 are more productive of disease than this practice, which is almost uni- 
 versal. People generally take their stoves down too early in the spring, 
 and neglect putting them up till late in the fall; some, in fact, till dire 
 necessity actually drives them to it. This is more particularly the case 
 in hotels and boarding-houses, which is not only a great inconvenience, 
 but an actual injustice to guests and boarders. Better to save the "al- 
 mighty dollar" by robbing them of one-half their meals, than to deprive 
 them of the comforts of a warm and comfortable room, on a cold, chilly 
 day. 
 
 Avoid contracting colds as much as possible; and when taken, endeavor 
 to break them up as soon as you can. If you have been caught in a rain- 
 storm, and your clothes have become drenched through, never sit down, 
 or remain idle one minute after you get where you can exchange them 
 for dry ones. As soon as you discover that your pores are closed, from 
 liaving allowed any part of your body to become chilled, keep yourself 
 comfortably warm, within doors, till the difficulty has been removed. 
 Drink plentifully of warm ginger, pennyroyal, or sage-tea ; evacuate the 
 bowels by enemas, and live upon warm broths and gruels. Vapor baths 
 are excellent in removing colds. Attend to these conditions promptly, 
 and no permanent injury will ensue; but if neglected, pulmonary dis- 
 eases, which will ultimate in consumption, will often be the result, to say 
 nothing of the dangers of pneumonia, congestions, &c. 
 
 Avoid sleeping on feather-beds, and under too much clothing, as it 
 retains the perspiration and noxious exhalations from the bod}^ and pre- 
 vents a free circulation of the air. Woolen blankets are preferable to 
 cotton comforts. 
 
 Never allow yourself to become passionately angry, or unduly excited ; 
 but uniformly endeavor to preserve an equanimit}- and serenity of mind, 
 which will greatly tend to the promotion of your health and happiness. 
 
 Never indulge in the filthy, disgusting, and enervating practice (now 
 a universal crime among all so-called civilized nations) of smoking and 
 chewing tobacco, as no other cause is more prolific of deleterious efiects 
 upon both mind and body. 
 
 If you have become so thoroughly wedded to the "weed" that you can 
 not give it up yourself, for heaven's sake, and the sake of humanity, don't 
 permit your darling boy to imitate your bad example, so long as he 
 remains under your guardianship; and when he arrives at man's estate, 
 the chances are, if he be possessed of a reasonable shai'e of common sense, 
 that he will not then take it up. Mothers, see to it, that your boys do 
 not acquire this man-killing habit before you are aware of it. 
 
 Keep the body clean b}'^ frequent ablutions. Never go more than one 
 week in cold weather, and not more than one or two days in warm 
 weather, without washing your person all over. 
 
 Eegulate the temperature of the water by that of the weather, and the 
 constitution and vitalit}^ of the system. If the constitution be feeble, 
 with but little vitality in the system, never, especially in winter, use water 
 with the temperature much below the heat oi the body — that is, 96 deg. 
 Fahrenheit ; then wipeyourself perfectly dry, and rub briskly with the hand, 
 or a dry towel. Persons of strong, robust constitutions, may use cold 
 water, as the superabundance of animal heat will be sufficient to get up 
 tt reaction, and carry off the excessive cold. Were the above rules um- 
 
02 THE HOUSEKEEPER S GUIDE. 
 
 versally nnd strictly observed, nino-teiiths of the "ills" and "ails" to 
 whiich human flesh is heir, would disappear from the face of our beauti- 
 ful earth. 
 
 WATER AS A llEMEDIAL AGENT. 
 
 The "Water-cure," as it is called, is good as an auxiliarj'' in the treat- 
 ment of nearly all diseases, especially those of a febrile nature; but it is 
 not, as the hydropathics claim, a universal panacea, and will not do to 
 depend upon, unaided by other remedies. The wise physician makes his 
 selection from the entire Laboratory of Nature, using a/l remedies which 
 experience has proved to be beneticial, instead of confining himself ex- 
 clusively to any particular one-idea system ; though the hydropathic, as 
 an exclusive system, is, undoubtedly, preferable to the old system of 
 poisoning with calomel, cupping and bleeding, which is now fast going 
 out of use among more enlightened minds, in the old, or Aiopathio school 
 of practice. 
 
 Water requires to be eniployed with discretion, or much harm maj 
 result from its use. However, it may be used by almost any person with 
 out danger, in nearly all cases of febrile attacks, where there is severe 
 local inflammation or general fever. 
 
 If the disease be local, and the parts much swollen and highly inflamed, 
 bathe frequently in cold water, and apply cloths wet in cold water as often 
 as they become warm, till the inflammation subsides. In cases of general 
 fever, where the pulse ranges from 90 up to 120, sponge the surface all 
 over with water more or less cold, according to the constitution, general 
 health, and present condition of the patient. The safest rule is, to use it 
 of such a temperature as will feel cool, refreshing, and agreeable when 
 applied; but never when it produces a chilly sensation, and a shrinking 
 from it. This last rule will apply to consumptives, and all persons in 
 feeble health. Observe these rules strictly, and no harm will result from 
 its use; but, in most of cases, much good will come therefrom. 
 
 Pure fresh air is another very important consideration in the treatment 
 of the sick. Always have the chamber of the sick well ventilated, but 
 not in such manner as to bring the bed into a direct draft, as there will 
 be danger of taking cold. 
 
 Simiight is the next consideration of importance, both to the sick and 
 the healthy. Persons, as well as plants, can not thrive well when 
 deprived of the vivifying and genial influence of the direct rays of the 
 sun; hence it is highly injurious to have your house all hemmed in with 
 shade-trees, or the walls of adjoining buildings. This is evident from the 
 fact that in all large towns and (rities, the buildings on the south side 
 of the street, where the rays of the sun never penetrate in midday, are 
 the most unhealthy; and that in times of prevailing epidemics, by far the 
 largest percentage of mortality is in buildings so situated. Therefore, 
 keep your shade-trees at a proper distance from your building, throw open 
 your blinds, and, as nearly as possible, admit the direct rays of the sun 
 into every part of your house daily. 
 
 In the treatment*^ of nearlj^ all diseases, whether acute or chronic, more 
 depends upon these conditions of pure, fresh air, sunlight, exercise, diet, 
 and cleanliness, than in the skill of physicians and the potency of medi- 
 cines; which, however, are right and proper, when 'properly used. 
 
 DIET AND BEVERAGES FOR THE SICK. 
 
 Remarks. — Where persons have become very weak and much pros- 
 trated from the effects of fevers and other diseases, nothing, especially 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 53 
 
 after the disease is broken, and the patient is beginning to be convales- 
 cent, is of so much importance as suitable food and drinks; as the least 
 indiscretion, in this respect, will often bring on a relapse, which will be 
 apt to prove fatal. Therefore, avoid all hard and indigestible substances, 
 such as pastry of,.every kind and description; crude and uncooked vegeta- 
 bles; hard and unripe fruit; tough and fatty meats; highly-seasoned and 
 rich soups, and all strong and intoxicating beverages. 
 
 Beef Tea. — This is the most proper food that can be given where the 
 patient is in a low, prostrate condition, with but little recuperative power 
 left in the system. It- is made as follows: Take a piece of tender, lean 
 beef, large enough, when cut up, to fill af large cotfee-cup; cut it very 
 fine, almost into mince; put it into two cups, or double its own bulk of 
 cold water; bring it to a boil, skimming it as the skum rises to the top; 
 continue the boiling till one-half of the water has been evaporated, when 
 it is ready for use. Use no seasoning, except a very little salt. If the 
 patient be much reduced, from the etfects of prostrating fevers, or other 
 causes, this is to be given, at first, in teaspoon quantities; then gradually 
 increased in quantity, as the patient gains strength — taking care that no 
 more is taken at a time than the stomach is able to bear. Better give a 
 little, often, than to overload the stomach with more than it can manage. 
 As soon as the patient recovers sufficiently to require something solid, a 
 little toasted soda-cracker, or nice wheaten bread, may be crumbed in with 
 the broth. If beef can not always be procured, the next best thing is 
 mutton, wild fowls, squirrels, rabbits, and, last of all, chickens. Wild 
 fowls are much healthier than domestic ones, and venison is healthier 
 than beef or mutton. 
 
 Broths made from boiling mutton, or other meat, with pearl-barley, 
 till the latter becomes a jelly, is an excellent diet for the sick. Pirst soak 
 the barley several hours in cold water, then put the water and barley, 
 together with the meat, in the pot, and boil till sufficiently done. Kice, 
 cooked in the same way, is also good, 
 
 Corn-Starch. — Get the Oswego corn-starch, and make into light, boiled 
 puddings. Take all milk, or part milk and part water, and bring to a boil; 
 ihen stir in corn-starch, which has been beaten into a paste, and thinned 
 with milk or water, till it is of the proper consistency. Cook for fifteen 
 or twenty minutes over a moderate tire, stirring it all the while, to pre- 
 vent its burning. For sick people, do not put in eggs, according to tho 
 directions accompanying each package, as the eggs, when cooked hard, 
 are too hard to digest. This is as good as the Bermuda arrow-root, and 
 is much cheaper. 
 
 Sago. — Wash it clean, and soak in cold water for one hour ; now put 
 in a stew-pan, in the same water, and cook gently till it is done. Season 
 with a little nutmeg and lemon, and also add wine and sugar, if you like. 
 If preferred, it can be boiled the same way in new milk. 
 
 Meat Gruel. — Stir a little Indian-meal, or oatmeal, with water, and boil 
 thoroughly till well done, stirring it so it will not burn. 
 
 Milk Porridge. — Bring one quart of milk to a boil, and stir in a little 
 fiour, which has been well beaten into a paste, and thinned, till it is of 
 the desired consistency. Cook till well done. Roast and baked potatoes, 
 baked apples, and soft-boiled eggs, are good for sick persons when in an 
 advanced state of convalescence, but are not good to be eaten at first, as 
 they would prove too much for the digestive organs. 
 
 Toast. — Take good, nice wheaten bread, and cut in slices, and toast till 
 a little brown ; now put a slice on a plate, and turn on a little hot water, 
 »aid allow it to remain long enough to moisten it all through, but uo 
 
54 THE HOUSE-KEEl'EIl's GUIDE. 
 
 longer; then sprinkle a little salt over it, spread it with a little fresh but- 
 ter, or sweet cream. Prepare what you want in the same way; and, 
 having put all the slices together on the same plate, set it in the oven, and 
 allow it to remain till it becomes well heated all through, but not long 
 enough to bake and become dry. This is not a bad dish for well people 
 to take. 
 
 Toast Water. — Toast two or three slices of bread till well browned all 
 through, but not burned in the least. Put in a pitcher, and turn on one 
 pint of hot water, and let it stand for half an hour or so, when it ia ready 
 tor use. Sweeten with loaf sugar, if you like. This is cool and nour- 
 ishing. 
 
 SLlppery Elm and Date- Water is also cool and nourishing for sick peo- 
 ple. Take a tumblerful of nice plump dates, or of slippery elm, and put 
 into a pint of cold water, and let it stand till it becomes thick, like mucil- 
 age or gum-water. People have been known to live for weeks upon this, 
 when the stomach was unable to bear anj-- thing else. 
 
 Lemon and Orange-ade is a good beverage for persons sick with a fever. 
 
 Why Children Die. — One reason why children die is because they are 
 not taken care of. From the day of birth, they are stuffed with food, 
 aJid choked with physic, sloshed with water, suffocated in hot rooms, 
 steamed in bed-clothes. So much for in-door. When permitted to breathe 
 a breath of pure air once a week in summer, and once or twice during 
 the colder months, only the nose is permitted to peer into daylight. A 
 little later, they are sent out with no clothing at all on the parts of the 
 body which most need protection. Bare legs, bare arms, bare necks, girted 
 middle, with an inverted umbrella to collect the air and chill the other 
 parts of the body, A stout, strong man goes out on a cold day with gloves 
 and overcoat, woolen stockings, and thick, double-soled boots, with cork 
 between and rubbers over. TDhe same day a child of three years old, an 
 infant liesh, blood, bone, and constitution, goes out with shoes as thin as 
 paper, cotton socks, legs uncovered to the knees, neck bare; an exposure 
 which would disable the nurse, kill the mother outright, and make the 
 father an invalid for weeks. And why? To harden them to a mode of 
 dress which they are never expected to practice ; to accustom them tc 
 exposure which, a dozen years later, would be considered downright fool- 
 ei-y. To rear children thus for the slaughter-pen, and then lay it on the 
 L(jrd, is too bad. We don't think the Almighty had any hand in it. 
 And to draw comfort from the presumption that He had an agency in 
 the death of the child is a profanation. — Journal of Health. 
 
 Dieting. — Dieting is usually considered to mean the same thing as a 
 kind of starvation. The idea which the educated physician attaches to 
 the term is a judicious regulation of the quantity and quality of the food, 
 iiccording to the circumstances of each case. A healthy man may diet 
 himself in order to keep well; an invalid may diet with a view to the 
 recovery of his health ; yet the things eaten by the two will widely differ 
 in their nature, bulk, and mode of preparation. A vast multitude are 
 suffering hourly by the horrors of dyspepsia; no two are pi-ecisely alike 
 iu all points, since there is an endless variety of combinations as to age, 
 sex, occupation, air, exei'cise, mode of eating, sleeping, constitution, tem- 
 perament, etc. Yet dyspepsia is always brought on by over and irregular 
 eating ; it could be banished from the world in a generation, if the chil- 
 dren were educated to eat moderately, regularly, and slowly ; the pai-ents 
 who do this will do their offspring a higher good than by leaving them 
 largio foi'tunes, which, in throe cases out of four, foster idleness, gluttony 
 ftiid 'A/ery evil thing. As the rich can get any thing to eat or drink whea 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 55 
 
 i^anted, ihej", with indulged children, bring on dyspepsia by eating irreg- 
 ilarly and without an appetite. The poor — those who have to work for 
 a living — induce the horrible disease by eating too i-apidly and at unsea- 
 sonable hours ; mainly by eating heartily at supper, and going to bed within 
 an hour or two afterward. In the heyday of youth and manly vigor 
 there may not for a while be noticed any special ill effect from such a 
 practice — in truth, it is at first inappreciable, but it is cumulative, and im- 
 possible not to manifest itself in due time. Infinite Benevolence forgives 
 a moral delinquency; but Omnipotent as He is, and loving towards all, it 
 is not in the nature of His government of created things to work a mir- 
 ade, to suspend a natural law, in order to shield one of his creatures from 
 the legitimate effects of a violence oftered the physical system by excesses 
 in eating, drinking, or exercise. 
 
 Perhaps hearty suppers make more dyspeptics than any or all other 
 clauses combined. If dinner is at noon, nothing should be taken for sup- 
 per but a single cup of weak tea or other hot drink, and a piece of stale 
 bi-ead and butter. After forty years of age, those who live in-doors, 
 sedentary persons — that, is, all who do not work with their hands as 
 laborers — would do better not to take any supper at all. Half the tima 
 the sedentary, who eat at noon, do not feel hungry at supper; especially 
 if they see nothing on the table but bread and butter and tea. ]But Nature 
 is goaded on to act against her instincts in almost every family in the 
 nation by "relishes" being placed on the supper-table, in the shape of 
 chipped beef, salt fish, cake, preserves or other kinds of sweetmeats, and 
 before the person is aware, a hearty meal has been taken, resulting in 
 present un comfortableness, in disturbed sleep, in a weary waking in the 
 morning, bad taste in the mouth, and little or no appetite for breakfast, 
 all of which can be avoided by beginning early to eat habitually, accord- 
 ing to the suggestions above made. — Halt's Journal of Health. 
 
 POISONS AND THEIE ANTIDOTES. 
 
 It not un frequently happens that serious and distressing results are oc- 
 casioned by the accidental employment of poisons ; and \\s herewith sub- 
 mit a compendious list of the more common poisons, and the remedies for 
 them most likely to be at hand: 
 
 Acids. — These cause great heat and sensation of burning pain, from the 
 mouth down to the stomach. Remedies : Magnesia, soda, pearlash or soap 
 dissolved in water; then use stomach-pump or emetics. 
 
 Alkalies. — The best remedy is ginger. 
 
 Ammonia. — Remedy: Lemon-juice or ginger; afterward milk and water, 
 or flaxseed tea. 
 
 Alcohol. — First cleanse out the stomach by an emetic ; then dash cold 
 water on the head, and give ammonia (spirits of hartshorn). 
 
 Arsenic. — Remedies: In the first place evacuate the stomach; then give 
 the white of eggs, lime-water, or chalk and water, charcoal, and the prep- 
 arations of iron, particularly hydrate. 
 
 Lead. — White lead and sugar of lead. Remedies: Alum, cathartic, such 
 as castor oil and Epsom salts especially. 
 
 Charcoal. — In poison by carbonic gas, remove the patient to the open 
 air, dash cold water on the head and body, and stimulate the nostrils 
 And lungs by hartshorn, at the same time rubbing the chest briskly. 
 
 Corrosive Sub lim,aie. — Give the white of eggs freshly mixed with water, 
 or give v/heat flour and water, or soap and wwter fr«ely. 
 
56 THE HOUSE-KEErER'S GUIDE. 
 
 Creosote. — While of eggs and emetics. 
 
 Belladona or night Heiibane. — Give emetics, and then plenty of vinegar 
 and water, or lemonade. 
 
 Mushrooms, when Poisonous. — Give emetics, and then plenty of vinegar 
 and water, witli dose of either, if handy. 
 
 Nitrate of Silver {Lunar Cazistic.) — Give a strong solution of common 
 Palt, and then emetics. 
 
 Opium. — First give a strong emetic of mustard and water, then strong 
 coffee and acid drinks; dash cold water on the head. 
 
 Laudanum. — Same as opium. 
 
 Nux Vomica. — First emetics, then brandy. 
 
 Oxalic Acid. — Frequently mistaken for Epsom salts. Eemedies: Chalk, 
 magnesia, or soap and water freely, then emetics. 
 
 Nitrate of Potash^ or Saltpeter. — Give emetics, then copious draughts 
 of Haxseed tea, milk and water, and other soothing drinks. 
 
 Prussia Acid. — When there is tim, administer chlorine in the shape 
 of soda or lime; hot brandy and water. Hartshorn and turpentine are 
 also useful. 
 
 Snake-bites, etc. — Appl3% immediatel}', strong hartshorn, and take it 
 internally. Also give sweet oil and stimulants freely. Apply a ligature 
 tight above the part bitten, and then apply a cupping glass. 
 
 Tartar Emetic. — Give large doses of tea made out of galls, Peruvian 
 bark, or white-oak bark. 
 
 Tobacco. — First an emetic, then a stringent tea, then stimulants. 
 
 Verdigris. — Plenty of the white of eggs and water. 
 
 White Vitriol: — Give the patient plenty of milk and water. 
 
 In almost all cases of poisons, emetics are highly useful, and of these, 
 one of the very best, because most prompt and ready, is the common 
 mustard flour or powder, a tea-spoonful of which, stirred up in warm 
 water, may be give every five minutes, until free vomiting can be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Emetics and warm demulcent drinks, such as milk and water, flaxseed 
 or slippery-elm tea, chalk-water, etc., should be administered without 
 delay. The subsequent management of the case will, of course, be left to 
 a physician. 
 
 VEGETABLE MATEKIA MEDIC A. 
 
 Lobelia Inffata. — The properties of this plant have long been known to 
 the Aborigines of this country, but Dr. Samuel Thompson has the honor 
 of bringing it into general use, and of establishing its efficacy in the 
 treatment of various diseases. This herb, properly administered, wiil 
 subdue diseases of long standing, which have resisted the power of every 
 other remed3\ It is one of the most po.werful and effective emetics that 
 can be given, and is of incalculable value in the treatment of all morbid 
 affections of the stomach, poisonings, etc. There is scarcely a case arising 
 from a morbid and bilious condition of the stomach, and other viscera, in 
 which an emetic may not be taken with great advantage to the patient, 
 a- It expels all morbitic matter, and removes all obstructions which retard 
 the process of digestion. It may be administered occasionally in all cases 
 of dyspepsia and mdigestion, cholera-morbus, diarrhea, dysentery, etc. 1 
 have seen persons lingering along with a poor appetite, or none at all, 
 with constant nausea at the stomach, m spite of the most powerful reme- 
 dies administered by skillful hands, take one or two lobelia emetics and 
 throw up ueiirly a pint of phlegm and slimy matter, which had lain on 
 
THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 57 
 
 the stomach so long that it had become tough and ropy, so that when hfted 
 up it would hang in strings ten or twelve inches long. This "sliming,'' 
 as it is sometimes termed, adheres closely to the coatings of the stomach, 
 and almost entirely prevents the action of the gastric juice upon the food; 
 and nothing will so effectually dislodge and expel it, as a good lobelia 
 emetic. "Whatever may be the prejudices of the patient against this 
 harmless but powerful remedy, it will all be removed on taking one or two 
 doses, followed with the expulsion from the stomach of half a pint or mora 
 of morbific or bilious matter, the speedy return of his appetite, and n 
 feeling better generally, and at the stomach particularly. 
 
 The following is the best method of administering it: Take one tea- 
 spoonful of ginger and put in a pitcher and pour on one quart of hot 
 water. When a little cool, take a tea-cupful (with sugar if you like,) and 
 repeat every five minutes till all is drunk up; now put a tea-spoonful of 
 a mixture (equal parts,) of bayberry bark and ginger into the pitcher, 
 and pour on another quart of boiling water; let it steep a few moments, 
 and then take a tea-spoonful of the pulverized leaves of lobelia and put 
 into a teacup, which fill two-thirds full of the tea from the pitcher; let it 
 stand covered for five minutes, then give the patient one-half of it, to be 
 followed by more of the new tea. If, after the lapse of five or ten min- 
 utes, vomiting does not ensue, give the balance of the lobelia, and drink 
 again of the tea till it commences, and the stomach becomes thoroughly 
 evacuated. Should the first dose produce the desired effect, then pour 
 more water on the grounds in the pitcher, drink again of the tea, and take 
 the remaining portion of the lobelia, as in the first dose. If the bayberry 
 and ginger can not at all times be had, use pennyroyal tea in the same 
 manner. This emetic is simple, and can be administered by almost any 
 adult person, and, in nine cases out of ten, will be sufficient to completely 
 evacuate the stomach, while now and then a case will require double the 
 quantity of lobelia. 
 
 Skunk Cabbage. — The root is stimulant and expectorant; useful in 
 coughs, asthma, and all pulmonary complaints. It is also given to chil- 
 dren, to destroy worms. 
 
 Alder. — This is an astringent, useful in bleeding at the lungs, or as a 
 wash for ulcers. 
 
 Moiherwort. — This will ease the pain in the nervous headache. 
 
 Bidrn GUead Buds. — Steeped in spirits, excellent for bathing wounds. 
 
 Mullen. — This is physical ; good, simmered in lard, for piles. 
 
 Burdock. — This is a cathartic; it will produce perspiration. The leaves 
 are good in fevers, to bind upon the head and feet. 
 
 Blackberry. — This is astringent; very valuable in dysentery. 
 
 PLantaiyi — Good, combined with lard, for the salt-rheum; its juice will 
 cure the bite of snakes. 
 
 Bluejiag. — Useful in fevers, or to expel humors from the system. Dose — 
 half a tea-.>;poonful three times a day. 
 
 Prickly Ash. — The bark and berries of the prickly ash are stimulant and 
 tonic. They are almost a sovereign remedy for cold feet and hands, and 
 all diseases dependent on a sluggish or languid circulation. Dose — from 
 half ti) a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark and berries. 
 
 Smart Weed. — This herb produces powerful sweating ; is an excellent 
 remedy to break up a cold when threatened with a fever. It may bo 
 drank in tea at liberty. 
 
 ALay Weed. — It is a stimulant and tonic, useful in febrile attacks, sudden 
 colds, cough, etc. This is commonly used in the form of tea, induc&» p«r- 
 Kpiratioji, and scmetimes vomiting. 
 
58 THE nOUSK-KEEPERS GUIDE. 
 
 Chamomile. — It is a stimulant and tonic, useful in colds, febrile -attacks, 
 debility, and in all cases the same as May weed. 
 
 Pipsissewa — Winter Green. — The pipsissewa is a stimulant, diuretic, as- 
 tringent, and tonic; useful in scrofulas, tumors, cancers, and kidney com- 
 plaints. The tea is also useful as a wash for ill-conditioned sores and 
 cutaneous eruptions. 
 
 Peppermint. — Is a pleasant stimulant, promotes perspiration, and may 
 be administered in all cases of colds, pain in the stomach and bowels, 
 flatulenc}^, headache, nausea, etc. 
 
 Spearmint. — Is a tonic and stimulant, and is employed to stop vomit- 
 ing, and allaj'- nausea. It is an excellent carminative, induces perspir- 
 ation, warms and invigorates the system, and quiets pain in the stomach 
 and bowels. 
 
 Gi7iseng. — The root is tonic and nervine. It is useful in all cases of 
 debility, loss of appetite, neuralgic affections, and dyspepsia. Dose — half 
 a tea-spoonful of the powdered root, more or less. 
 
 lieth Root. — Beth root is astringent, tonic, and antiseptic, may be em- 
 ployed in all cases of hemorrhage, leucorrhea, asthma, and coughs. Dose 
 — half a tea-spoonful. 
 
 .Scullcap. — Scullcap is a most valuable nervine, and antispasmodic. It 
 may be used successfully in delirium tremens, fits, locked-jaw, St. Vitus' 
 dance, an<^ all nervous diseases. It is also recommended in hydropho- 
 bia. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered herb. 
 
 Ladies Slipper. — Is a valuable nervine, quiets nervous excitement, 
 eases pain, and induces sleep. It may be used freely in all nervous and 
 hysterical affections, without incurring the least danger, or producing 
 unpleasant consequences. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered root 
 may be taken three or four times a day, or until relief is obtained. 
 
 Slippery Elm. — The inner bark is mucilaginous and nutritious, and 
 may be employed in all cases of inflammation, debility, diseases of the 
 urinary passages, diarrhea, dysentery, pleurisy, and sore throat. 
 
 Pennyroyal. — Is an agreeable stimulant, and, if convenient, should 
 alwaj's be used in giving an emetic. It promotes perspiration, and 
 facilitates the operation of lobelia. It is also a valuable carmina'tive, 
 and may be freely used in all slight attacks of disease. 
 
 Gum Myrrh. — It is astringent, antiseptic, and tonic. It is useful in 
 pulmonary complaints, loss of appetite, sore mouth, and offensive breath. 
 It is also useful in dysentery and diarrhea, and to cleanse offensive ulcers, 
 putrid and ill-conditioned sores. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the tincture, or 
 fourth of a tea-spoonful of the powder. 
 
 Cayenne. — Is a pure, powerful, and healthy stimulant, and produces, 
 when introduced into the stomach, a sensation of warmth, which diffuses 
 itself gradually through the system, but without any narcotic effect. It 
 is an excellent remedy in all cases of colds, coughs, flatulency, congestion, 
 dyspepsia, etc. It should not be taken in very largo doses upon a cold 
 or empty stomach, but in small quantities at first, gradually increasing 
 the dose. 
 
 Balmony. — It serves as a tonic laxative, and may be used in debility, 
 costiveness, dyspepsia, jaundice, coughs, and colds. There are but few 
 forms of disease in which this article may not be used to advantage. Dose — 
 an even tea-spoonful of the powdered herb. 
 
 Poplar. — The bark is a pleasant tonic, useful in loss of appetite, indi- 
 gestion, diarrhea, worms, and headache. It possesses diuretic properties, 
 and may be em})loyed in strangury, and all diseases of the urinary pas- 
 sages. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark. 
 
THE HOUSE-KEEPER'S GUIDE. 59 
 
 Unicorn. — The root of this plant is a valuable tonic, beneficial in all 
 female conr\plaints, particularly so in leucorrhea; also in pleurisy, general 
 debility, weakness of the digestive organs, and coughs. Dose — from half 
 to a tea-spoonful of the powdered root. 
 
 Boncset. — Is laxative, tonic, and expectorant. A decoction of the leaves 
 and flowers, taken while wjirin, and in large quantities, will evacuate 
 the stomach in a very gentle nnd safe manner; administered cold, it acts 
 as a tonic and laxative. It is useful in coughs, colds, and pulmonary 
 complaints. 
 
 Bayberry. — The bark of bayberry is powerfully astringent, and slightly 
 stimulating; useful for cleansing the stomach and bowels from canker, 
 scarlatina, dysentery', and diarrhea. A decoction of the bark is also useful 
 as a gargle for sore throat, and as a wash for ill-conditioned sores. 
 
 Hemlock Bark. — It is astringent and tonic. Enemas composed of a 
 strong tea of this article may be used with advantage in all cases of 
 prolapsus. 
 
 Marsh Rosemary. — The root of the marsh rosemary is astringent and 
 tonic, and may be used in all cases where these properties are required. 
 A decoction of this is an excellent wash for canker-sores, sore mouth, etc. 
 
 Witch Hazel. — The bark and leaves are astringent and tonic. Mny be 
 used in all cases of hemorrhage, debility, and for cleansing irritable 
 sores. 
 
 Evan Root. — Evan root is a valuable tonic and astringent; useful for 
 diarrhea, dysentery, sore mouth, debility, etc. 
 
 White Pond-Lily. — The root of this plant is a pleasant astringent 
 useful in bowel complaints, and as a gargle for putrid and ulcerated sore 
 throat. Combined with slippery-elm, it^ forms an excellent poultice for 
 cleansing old sores, ulcers, etc. 
 
 Gold Thread.— It is astringent and tonic, useful as a gargle for sore 
 throat, and is much used for that purpose. ' It may also be employed in 
 debility and loss of appetite, and in all cases where golden seal and poplar 
 bark are recommended. 
 
 Sumach. — The leaves and berries are stimulant, astringent, and tonic, 
 beneficial in dysentery, stranguary, sore mouth, also for washing oflTensive 
 sores and ring-worms. 
 
 Golden Seal. — It is a laxative and tonic, and an excellent remedy in 
 co.stiveness, loss of appetite, jaundice, debility, liver complaint, and faint- 
 ness at the stomach. Taken in doses of an even tea-spoonful, it is effica- 
 cious in relieving unpleasant sensations occasioned by a hearty meal. 
 
 Barberry. — The bark is tonic and laxative, useful in jaundice, loss of 
 appetite, weakness of the digestive organs, and in all cases where golden 
 seal is recommended. Dose — a tea-spoonful of the powdered bark. 
 
 Hoarhound. — The root is stimulant and tonic, useful in coughs, colds, 
 asthmatic aflections, and in pulmonary diseases. It may be prepared with 
 honey or molasses. 
 
 Fir Balsam. — Is a valuable expectorant and tonic, beneficial in coughs, 
 colds, and all affections of the lungs. 
 
 Yarrow. — This plant is a valuable stimulant, an excellent remedy in all 
 cases of female weakness, colic, and intermittent fevers. A decoction of 
 the herb is also used as a wash for sores, salt-rheum, and piles. 
 
 Golden Rod. — Is aromatic and slightly stimulant; is used for quieting 
 pains in the stomach and bowels, flatulency, and for scenting other 
 medicines. 
 
 Cleavers. — Are useful on account of their diuretic properties ; also ia 
 inflammation of the kidneys and urinary obstructions. 
 
60 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 Dandelion. — Is tonic and diuretic, an excellent corrector of the bile, and 
 an invalusible remedy in hepatic diseases. 
 
 Sassafras.— Steeped in water, it is an excellent wash for all kinds of 
 humors. 
 
 Ca/^ii/?.- -Valuable for injections. In fevers, it promotes perspiration 
 without raising the heat of the body. 
 
 Sage. — Useful in fevers, and for worms in children. Good substitute 
 for tea, 
 
 Comfrey. — This is mucilaginous; valuable in coughs and all consump- 
 tive complaints. 
 
 .9q^?-o«.— Makes a valuable tea for children afflicted with the measles, 
 chicken-pox, and all eruptive diseases. 
 
 Coltsfoot. — A tea of tbis is good for hoarseness. 
 
 Valerian. — Good in all nervous complaints ; a swallow or two taken 
 occasionally will produce the same effect as paregoric, and is every way 
 preferable to it. 
 
 Wild Cherry-Tree Bark. — A tea made of this is said to have cured con- 
 sumption, if taken in season. 
 
 HINTS TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 
 
 If your flat-irons are rough and smoky, lay a little fine salt on a flat 
 surface, and rub them well; it will prevent them from sticking to any- 
 thing starched, and make them smooth. 
 
 Rub your griddle with fine salt before you grease it, and your cake 
 will not stick. 
 
 When walnuts have been kept until the meat is too much dried to bo 
 good, let them stand in milk and water eight hours, and dry them, and 
 they will be as fresh as when new. 
 
 It is a good plan to keep your different kinds of pieces tape, thi-ead, 
 &c , in separate bags, and there is no time lost in looking for them. 
 
 Oats straw is best for filling of beds, and it is well to change it as 
 often as once a year. 
 
 Cedar chests are best to keep flannels, for cloth moths are never found 
 in them. Red cedar chips are good to keep in drawers, wardrobes, clos- 
 ets, trunks, &c., to keep out moths 
 
 When cloths have acquired an unpleasant odor by being kept from 
 the air, charcoal, laid in the folds, will soon remove it. 
 
 If black dresses have been stained, boil a handful of fig-leaves in a 
 quart of water, and reduce it to a pint. A sponge dipped in this liquid 
 and rubbed upon them, will entirely remove stains from crapes, bom- 
 bazines, &c. 
 
 in laying up furs for summer, lay a tallow candle in or near them, 
 and danger from worms will be obviated. 
 
 To prevent metals from rusting, melt together three parts of lard 
 and one of resin, and apply a very thin coating. It will preserve 
 Jiussia irc»n stoves and grates from rusting during summer, even in 
 dfcmp situations. The effect is equally good on brass, copper, steel, &c. 
 
 A cheap Cement for Glass and China. — Take fine plaster of paris (a 
 fine flour made by shaving broken images is best) and mix wirh a thick 
 mucilage of gum arabic till of the consistency of cream; apply to the 
 edges to be joined, and let the article dry 24 hours. This is not so good 
 for glass and china as the receipt on page 6, but it is much cheaper and 
 quicker made. 
 
MECHANICS' DEPARTMENT. 
 
 Painting Glass Transparencies. — Provide a small muller and a piece of 
 thick ground glass, five or six inches square, to grind the colors on ; also 
 a small pallet knife, and a few bottles to put the colors in. For a red 
 color get a little scarlet lake, and for blue a little Prussian blue. For 
 green use purified verdigris ground with a quarter of its bulk of gamboge, 
 and for brown use burnt umber, and for black, burnt sienna black. These 
 colors are truly transparent. Having all these colors ready, grind them 
 in the balsam of fir mixed with half its bulk of turpentine ; mastic var- 
 pish will do very well, but the balsam is the most beautiful. To coat the 
 glass black round the painting, dissolve asphaltuni in turpentine, and mix 
 with lampblack. When the colors are all ground they must be put in 
 separate bottles and sealed, and when they are to be used, a little bit is 
 taken out at once on a piece of glass, just as much as is needed at once, 
 as it quickly dries. If the color is too thick, it must be diluted with tur- 
 pentine. To paint glass sliders, the subject must be designed on paper, 
 and the paper put under the glass, and the glass painted above it accord- 
 ing to the design of the paper underneath. 
 
 Varnishfor Wood Patterns. — The most simple varnish, combined with 
 adaptation, is the following: One quart of alcohol and a quarter of a 
 pound of gum shellac. This put into a bottle, and when wanted for use, 
 mix up with a little lampblack to about the thickness of cream, and var- 
 nish the pattern over, rubbing it into the grain of the wood, until a 
 Blight friction produces a polish. This varnish makes a smooth surface 
 on the pattern, rendering it more easily drawn from the sand, and it tills 
 up all pores, or worm- holes, that may be in the wood; consequently, a 
 cleaner and smoother casting is produced. 
 
 Crystal Varnish. — First, genuine pale Canada balsam and rectified oil 
 of turpentine, equal parts; mix, place the bottle in warm water, agitate 
 well, set it aside in a moderately warm place, and in a week pour ofi" the 
 clear. Used for maps, prints, drawings, and other articles on paper, and 
 also to prepare tracing paper, and to transfer engraving. Second, mas- 
 tic, three ounces; alcohol, one pint, dissolved. Used to fix pencil draw- 
 ings. 
 
 Etching Varnish. — First, white wax, two ounces; black and Burgundy 
 pitch, of each half an ounce; melt together, add, by degrees, powdered 
 asphaltum, two ounces, and boil till a drop taken out on a plate will break, 
 wiien cold, by being bent double two or three times between the fingers; 
 it must then be poured into warm water, and made into small balls for 
 use. iSecojid, linseed oil and mastic, of each four ounces; melt together. 
 Third, soft linseed oil, four ounces; gum benzoin and white wax, of each 
 half an ounce; boil to two-thirds. 
 
 Flexible Varnish. — First, India-rubber in shaving, one ounce; mineral 
 naphtha, two pounds; digest, at a gentle heat, in a close vessel, till dis- 
 solved, and strain. Second, India-rubber, one ounce; drying oil, one quart; 
 dissolve by as little heat as possible, employing constant stirring; then 
 strain. Third, linseed oil, one gallon ; dried white copperas and sugar of 
 lead, each three ounces ; litharge, eight ounces ; boil, with constant agita- 
 
62 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S OUIDE. 
 
 tion, till it strings well ; then cool slowly, and decant the ciear. If too 
 thick, thin it with quick-drying linseed oil. These are used for balloons, 
 gas-bags, &c. 
 
 Varnish fcr Iron Woi^k. — The beautiful, glossy, black varnish for iron 
 work may be made by fusing one pound of amber in an iron vessel, and 
 adding, while hot, one quart of boiled linseed oil and three ounces each 
 of dark rosin and asphaltum, in powder. When the whole is thoroughly 
 incorporated, take it off; and, when cool, add about one pint of tui-pen- 
 tine. Several coats of this varnish are put on, and the articles are dried, 
 after each application, in a warm oven. 
 
 Aiwther. — To make a good black varnish for iron work, take eight pounds 
 of asphaltum, and fuse it in an iron kettle, then add five gallons of boiled 
 linseed oil, one pound of litharge, half a poundof sulphate of zinc (add these 
 slowly, or it will fume over), and boil them for about three hours. Now 
 add one and a-half pounds of dark gum-amber, and boil for two hours 
 longer, or until the mass will become quite thick, when cool; after which, 
 it should be thinned with turpentine to due consistency. 
 
 Varnishjor Iron Casthigs. — Heavy petroleum, mixed with coal tar, and 
 applied warm, is an excellent varnish for iron castings. 
 
 Black Japanning. — Black grounds for japan may be made by mixing 
 ivory black with shellac varnish; or, for coarse work, lampblack, and the 
 top coating of common seedlac varnish. A common black japan may be 
 made by painting a piece of work with drying oil, and putting said work 
 into an oven, not too hot; then gradu?il!y raising the heat, and keeping 
 it up for a long time, so as not to burn the oil and make it blister, 
 
 Tortoise-SheU Japan. — This varnish is prepared by taking of good linseed 
 oil one gallon, and of umber, half a pound, and boiling them together un- 
 til the oil becomes very brown and thick, when they are strained through 
 u cloth, and boiled again until the composition is about the consistence 
 of pitch, when it is tit for use. Having prepared this varnish, clean well 
 the vessel that is to be varnished (japanned), and then lay vermilion, 
 mixed with shellac varnish, or with drying oil diluted with good turpen- 
 tine, very thinly on the places intended to imitate the clear parts of the 
 tortoise-shell. When the vermiljion is dry, brush over the whole with the 
 above umber varnish, diluted to a due consistence with turpentine; and 
 when it is set and firm, it must be put into an oven, and undergo a strong 
 heat for a long time. This is the ground for those beautiful tea-boards 
 which are so much admired. The work is all the better to be finished in 
 an annealing oven. 
 
 Fainting Japan Work. — The colors to be painted are tempered generally 
 in oilj which should have at least one-fourth of its weight of gum sanderac, 
 or mastic, dissolved in it, and it should be well diluted with turpentine, 
 tliat the colors may be laid on thin and evenlj-. In some instances it does 
 well to put on water-colors, or grounds of gold, which a skillful hand can 
 do, and manage so as to make the work as if it were embossed. These 
 water-colors are best prepared by means of isinglass size, niixed with 
 honey, or sugar-candy. These colors, when laid on, must receive a num- 
 ber of upper coats of the varnish above described. 
 
 Transparent Fainfuig on hinen. — Very fine muslin is the best material 
 fur painting upon ; and before you begin to paint, a straining-frame must 
 be made, of beech or hard wood. It should consist of two upright bars 
 mortised at each end, with holes, into which top and bottom cross-bars, 
 tenoned at the sides, can slide, much after the same pattern as the ordi- 
 nary embroidery frame; but it is rarely required larger than suitable for 
 a window blind. Along the inner edge of the frame a strip of webbing 
 
THE house-keeper's GUItJE. 63 
 
 is pe.'manenfly nailed, and to this the muslin rilust b6 sewed before it is 
 stretched. Having stretched the niusliti, it is ready for the first prepara- 
 tion, which is sizing. The best size is that madfe from parchment cut- 
 tings; 3"ou must have a pipkin, to hold about a quart Of Water. Having 
 cut up the parchment into small strips, fill the pipkin with water, and 
 put them to simmer, but not to boil. When this operation has gone on for 
 H couple of hours, you will have suflScient size, which should be alloAved 
 to cool, and then you will have a clear, transparent jelly. Kemove the 
 dregs from it, and boil in a clean pipkin as much as you will require; but 
 recollect the more careful j'ou are in the preparation of the size, the bet- 
 ter will be the result of your workmanship. 
 
 After the muslin is sized, it will be found to relax in the frame, a»d 
 lias, therefore, to be again fully tightened. A second, or even a third 
 coating of size is to be applied, when the former is dry, and the muslin 
 «gain stretched, if it slackens. After a couple of days or more, when the 
 size is quite hard, it must be rubbed smooth with pumice-stone; a smooth 
 face may be obtained to the pumice-stone by grinding it on a stone flag 
 with water. This operation of smoothing the size is very necessary, as 
 the colors take better to the material than when this process is omitted. 
 The muslin being now in a fit state to receive the paint, the subject of the 
 design must be drawn upon it. In order to secure accuracy— ^for no 
 " rubbing out" can be effected on muslin — it is a common practice to draw 
 the intended outline first upon cartridge-paper, with a bold stroke, in ink, 
 so that when fixed to the back of the nuislin with threads, it can be seen 
 through the fabric, and the picture be traced out on the muslin with a 
 dark pencil. Another way of tracing a design is to employ the pounce- 
 bag and a perforated pattern ; thus, for instance, take a natural leaf, such 
 as that of the vine or ivy, lay it upon a strip of cartridge-paper; then 
 perforate the paper all round the leaf with a pointer, or a thick needle 
 fastened into a handle. On removing the leaf, a few perforation may be 
 made, to indicate the arteries. If several strips of paper are placed under 
 the leaf at once, repetitions of the designs can be readily obtained. 
 
 The best pounce-bag is made of a couple of folds of muslin tied up like 
 R laundress's blue-bag, and filled with a finely-powdered charcoal. The 
 perforated paper patterns being placed on the muslin, they are then 
 pounced over, when the charcoal dust falls through the holes on to the 
 muslin, and thus transfers the design of the leaf. If a border of leaves 
 is required, it is only necessary to repeat the same leaf, but placed in dif- 
 ferent positions — now left, now right, then overlapping each other. The 
 same may also be done with a butterfly, or any similar object. Having 
 perforated the design of a bird on the wing, it will not look like the same, 
 if its position is considerably altered, now flying up in mid-air, now alight- 
 ing on to a bough, then descending; the subsequent coloring of the leaves, 
 birds, and butterflies being also modified, changes their general appear- 
 ance. 
 
 Transferring Prints to Glass, Wood, ^c. — When it is desired to transfer 
 a steel, copper, or lithographic print to glass, the first operation is to coat 
 the glass with dilute lac, or clear copal varnish. The print is then moist- 
 ened with water, and while the varnish remains sticky, the paper is placed 
 on the glass with the print side upon the varnish; it is then pressed gently, 
 to make it adhere. Several folds of white paper are now placed upon the 
 back of the pvint, also a board, with a light weight thereon, to keep the 
 print and varnish in contact till both are dry. After this the paper is 
 moistened, and rubbed ofl" gently with the fingers, when the ink com- 
 posi»2 tile print is left adhering to the glass. The several parts of the 
 
04 THE liOtlSE-KEErER's GUIDE. 
 
 print may then be painted with approprisite colors, and then finisliGd vrilh 
 a ground-coat over all. Prints may be transferred to wood in the same 
 manner. The common mode of transferring prints to wooden blocks, for 
 engraving, is to immerse a print for a short period in a solution of pot- 
 ash, then place it upon the block and press it. The potash softens the 
 ink on the paper of the print, and when placed upon the block of wood 
 and pressed, the impression is made in the same manner as printing 
 in the usual way. Prints are also transferred thus to stones for litho- 
 graphic printing; also to plates of zinc for printing in a lithographic 
 press. 
 
 Many very elegant designs can be perforated by folding the paper once, 
 twice, or four times ; thus, whatever pattern is perforated will then be 
 1 epeated through the other sections. In this way corners and centers are 
 formed. The design, thus placed in outline on the linen, is now to be 
 colored. AVe, of course, presume that persons employing themselves thus 
 will have some knowledge of art, and it is now that their taste can be 
 displayed. The rules which govern art are applicable to transparent 
 painting, but our observations are limited to the specialities required to 
 put it in practice. A fine sponge forms a good tool to lay on the tints for 
 clouds and sk}', or distant hills, and coarse honey-comb sponge does well 
 for luxurious foliage, rocks, &c. Flat hog's-hair brushes, the same as are 
 used for oil-painting, do admirably for this work. Varnish colors, tem- 
 pered with japanners' gold size and turpentine, are the best; the paints 
 sold in tubes will be found convenient — copal varnish and pale-drying 
 oil being used as a vehicle. 
 
 Young persons who can draw, and are in want of a little occupation, 
 either for amusement or as a means of income, can now, from these hints, 
 turn their attention to transparent painting; and there are too many ugly 
 back windows to hide in every town for them to fear any lack of employ- 
 ment. 
 
 Colors for Siampbig Muslin for Embroidery. — Lamp-black, mixed with 
 a solution of gum arable or starch, will make a very good composition for 
 stamping white muslin for embroidery. Prussian-blue, ground to powder, 
 and mixed with a little boiled starch, answers for stamping blue on white 
 muslin. All colors used for stamping should be of such a nature that they 
 will wash out easily with soap and water; hence those fast colors, which 
 are used to print on calicoes, are unsuitable. For stamping on a black 
 f;round — such as a piece of black cloth or velvet, common pipe-clay, mixed 
 with a little starch, makes a white stamping composition. Lamp-black, 
 mixed with resin in a molten condition, then cooled and ground to pow- 
 der, with a little water, makes a good black for stamping. 
 
 Collodion Formulce. — The following two receipts are from the Phoio- 
 (jraj)ldc News : Those who are in the habit of experimenting in the prep- 
 aration of collodion for photographs will, probably, like to try the follow- 
 ing formula, communicated by M. Jeanrenaud to the ISIoniteur de la Pho" 
 tuyraphie. To counterbalance the drawback of complexity which seems 
 to characterize it, is the strong recommendation of the author, who pos- 
 sesses a high reputation. It is stated to give delicate results, to be very 
 rapid and durable, improving rather than deteriorating with age. Here 
 is the formula: Soluble cotton, 8 parts; pure ether, 800 parts; alcohol 
 (sp. gr. 830), 250 parts; iodide of cadmium, 9 parts. Dissolve, and add 
 to 35 ounces of collodion 25 of pure bromine. To 3 ounces of the collo- 
 dion then add 12 drops of strong liquid ammonia. A deposit is thrown 
 down, which may be redissolved by adding a few drops of glacial acetic 
 acid. The 3 oub ces are then added to the remainder of 35 ounces, and th» 
 
THE ilOUlsE- keeper's GUIDE. 65 
 
 whole left to settle for a fortnight. If it retains a straw color, it is fit for 
 use; if it be colorless, add a few drops of bromine. 
 
 M, Jeanrenaud also gives a formula for dry collodion, as follows: Take 
 ordinary collodion, and add to it 5 per cent, of a solution of ether, satu- 
 rated with yellow amber; the sensitizing bath consists of from 7 to 8 per 
 cent, of nitrate of silver, and 2 per cent, of glacial acetic acid ; the plate 
 is then washed in four or five waters. The development may be eflected 
 either by the ordinary bath of sulphate of iron, or with pyrogallic acid. 
 When the plates are large, it is necessary to fix the film around the edges 
 by means of some varnish, either with alcohol or chloroform. M. Jean 
 renaud found plates, so prepared, as sensitive, after the lapse of a month* 
 as when first fixed. The time required is about double that of the we* 
 process, and, for landscapes, varies from three to seven minutes, accord- 
 ing to the light and the season. 
 
 Da7nmara Varniah. — "Gum Dammara," as it is called, is a resin, not a 
 gum. It IS employed for making varnish, by dissolving it in turpentine. 
 The resin should be first well-dried, for, if it contains any moisture, it will 
 tend to make the varnish opaque. A common way to prepare it is to boil 
 the resin in the turpentine in an open vessel ; but if the resin is thoroughly 
 dried, it will dissolve slowly in cold turpentine, and form a clear var- 
 nish. 
 
 A good way to prepare it, on a large scale, is to use an enameled cast- 
 iron vessel, capable of containing about fifty pounds, for making twenty- 
 five pounds of the varnish. The dammara resin is put into the vessel in 
 a solid state, the proper quantity of turpentine (five parts to four parts 
 of resin) is then poured in, and the whole put upon the fire. As soon as 
 the boiling begins, the water, originally included in the resin, is dissi- 
 pated in the form of vapor, and the resin acquires a softer consistence. 
 "When all the water is expelled, and the varnish boils quietly, the solution 
 is completed, and the vessel may be removed from the fire. As long as 
 traces of water exist in the varnish, its boiling is attended with a bub- 
 bling movement; but as soon as all the water is got rid of, the varnish 
 boils quite quietly. When the varnish is prepared, it is poured through 
 a fine wire-sieve, and then allowed to settle sufliciently. If it be desired 
 to give the varnish a tougher consistence, two or three per cent, of good 
 bleached linseed oil (not boiled with oxide of lead) must be added to it 
 belbre boiling. This communicates great toughness to it. 
 
 Alloy for Journal Boxes. — Take seven and a-half pounds of pure copper 
 and melt it in a crucible; then gradually add, in small pieces, ninety-two 
 and a half pounds of zinc; when this is melted, and the two metals thor- 
 oughly mixed, the alloy is to be run into molds for journal boxes. A 
 patent was granted May 1, 1855, for this alloy, to Thomas Perth, of Cin- 
 cinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Babbitt Metal. — Take twenty-four pounds of copper, and melt it first in 
 a crucible ; then add, gradually, twenty-four parts of pure tin and eight 
 of antimony. Great care must be exercised in adding the tin to the cop- 
 per. This composition is rendered softer by the use of a greater quantity 
 of tin. It is first run into ingots, then melted and cast, to form the jour- 
 nal boxes, &c. 
 
 Fine Polishing Powder. — Professor Vogel, of England, states, that the 
 finest powder for polishing optical glasses and fine metals, is made by 
 calcining the oxalate of iron. It is superior to the common polishing- 
 powder for glass, made of lixivated colcothar. 
 
 Consolidating Cast-steel. — Mr. J. M. llowan, of Glasgow, proposes to 
 consolidate ca.>t-steel, or metal produced I'y the pneumatic process, by com- 
 5 
 
66 THE HOUSE-KEEPERS GUIDE. 
 
 pressing it while still liquid, or nearly so, whereby it is rendered much 
 better adapted for subsequent processes. 
 
 A harmless green, for coloring confectioner}'', may be made as follows : 
 Take thirty-two parts of salfron, and infuse it in seven parts of water, to 
 which add twenty-six parts of the carmine of indigo in fifteen parts of 
 water. The yellow saffron and blue indigo, when mixed, form a beauti- 
 ful green color, which will combine with sugar solutions. 
 
 A most excellent Furniture Paste is made, by dissolving one part resin 
 and one part beeswax in two parts of benzine. 
 
 Refined Glycerine is a very suitable lubricator for clock-work. It does 
 not freeze in cold weather. 
 
 To Clean Brass. — Rub the surface of the metal with rotten-stone and 
 sweet oil, then rub off with a piece of cotton flannel and polish with soft 
 heather. A solution of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished brass, with a 
 cotton rag, soon removes the tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The 
 acid must be washed off with water, and the brass rubbed with whitening 
 in powder, and soft leather. When acids are employed for removing the 
 oxide from brass, the metal must be thoroughly washed afterwards, or it 
 will tarnish in a few minutes after being exposed to the air. A mixture 
 of muriatic acid and alum dissolved in water imparts a golden color to 
 brass articles that are steeped in it for a few seconds. 
 
 Cleaning Timvare. — Acids should never be employed to clean tinware, 
 because they attack the metal, and remove it from the iron of which it 
 forms a thin coat. We refer to articles made of tin plate, which consists 
 of iron covered with tin. • Kub the article first with rotten-stone and sweet 
 oil, the same as recommended for brass, then finish with whitening and a 
 piece of soft leather. Articles made wholly of tin should be cleaned in 
 the same manner. In a dry atmosphere, planished tinware will remain 
 bright for a long period, but will soon become tarnished in moist air. 
 
 Cleaning Silver-plated Articles. — AVhite metal articles electro-plated 
 with silver are now very common, and great care is required in cleaning 
 them when tarnished. No powder must be used for this purpos.e which 
 has the least grit in it, or the silver will be scratched and soon worn off. 
 The finest impalpable whitening should be employed, with a little soft, 
 water, in removing the tarnish. They are next washed with rain water, 
 dried and polished with a piece of soft leather, some rouge powder, or fine 
 whitening, then finally rubbed down with the hand, which forms a most 
 excellent polisher. 
 
 Black on Qun-Barrels. — The following mode of producing a black 
 coating on gun-barrels is taken from Mr. Wells's "Annual of Scientific 
 ]^iscovery" for the present j^ear : First, take chloride of mercur}' and 
 sal ammoniac; second, perchloride of iron, sulphate of copper, nitric acid, 
 alcohol and water; third, perchloride and proto-chloride of iron, alcohol 
 and water; fourth, weak solution of the sulphide of potassium. These 
 Hjlutions are successively applied, each becoming dry before the other is 
 used. No. 3 is applied twice, and a bath of boiling water follows Nos. 3 
 and 4. The shade of color is fixed by active friction, with a pad of woolen 
 cloth, and a little oil. The shade thus obtained is a beautiful black, of 
 uniform appearance. This process is used in the manufacture of arms at 
 JSt. Etienne, France. We regret that the proportions of the different 
 ingredients are not given. Several of our gunsmiths have made many 
 inquiries as to the mode of producing the blue-black coating on the Whit- 
 worth and other English rifles. Perhaps the above solution will effect 
 the object. The alcohol is used to make the application dry quickly. 
 The perchloride of iron and the sulphate of copjicr in No. 2 should b« 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 67 
 
 used only in a moderately strong solution, and only about 10 per cent, of 
 nitric acid added to the water. We hope that our gunsmiths will mee* 
 with success in using these solutions. No. 2, applied in three or four 
 coats, will form the common brown coating for gun-barrels. After the 
 last application has become dry, it is rubbed with a wire scratch brush, 
 washed with warm water, then dried, and afterward rubbed down with 
 a composition of beeswav dissolved in turpentine. 
 
 Alumimmi Bronze. — Experiments have been made at the Eoyal Gun 
 Factor}^, Woolwich, England, by Mr. J. Anderson, to test the compara- 
 tive strength, &c., of aluminum bronze. Its average breaking tensile 
 strength was found to be 73,185 Itjs per square inch, while that^of com- 
 mon gun metal is but 35,040 lbs. Its composition is 90 per cent, of cop- 
 per, 10 per cent, of aluminum. The purest copper that can be obtained, 
 such as that of Lake Superior, is the best to employ. It requires to be 
 remelted three times before it becomes fit for practical purposes. The 
 specific gravity of this alloy is said to be about that of cast-iron. It is 
 far more rigid than brass or common gun-metal. It produces good cast- 
 ings; it can be drawn into tubes, rolled into sheets, and hammered like 
 iron, and it is also capable of being soldered with brass. 
 
 Bronzing Metals. — The production of difierent coloi-s on the surface of 
 metals, such as works of fine art, &c., is called bronzing. Mere surface- 
 coloring is executed with metallic povrders mixed and applied with a 
 varnish. But the most perfect bronzing is produced by chemical action 
 on the metal itself — its own surface being thus made to form the bronze 
 color. Dr. Ure says, respecting this art: "Coins and metals may bo 
 handsomely bronzed as follows: 2 parts of verdigris and 1 part of sal- 
 ammoniac are to be dissolved in vinegar; the solution is to be boiled, 
 skimmed, and diluted with water, till it has only a weak metallic taste, 
 and, upon further dilution, lots fall no white precipitate. This solution is 
 now made to boil briskly, and is poured upon the objects to be bronzed. 
 These objects must have been previously cleaned and made perfectly free 
 from grease, and set in a copper pan. This pan, with the articles now in 
 it, is put on a fire, and the solution made to boil for some time. The 
 articles, if made of copper, will acquire an agreeable reddish-brown hue, 
 without losing their luster; but if thej' are boiled too long, the coat of 
 oxide upon them becomes too thick, and looks scaly and dull ; and if the 
 solution is too strong, the copper becomes covered with a white powder, 
 which becomes green on exposure to the air. The pieces thus bronzed 
 must be washed well in warm soft water, and than carefully dried, or they 
 will turn green. The antique appearance is given with a solution of 
 three-quarters of an ounce of sal ammoniac and a drachm and a half of 
 binoxalate of potash (salt of sorrel) dissolved in a quart of vinegar. It 
 is applied with a soft rag to the surface of the metal, then allowed to dry. 
 Several applications are thus made, until a coating of sufficient thickneU 
 is obtained. Copper acquires a brown color by rubbing it with a solution 
 of the common liver of sulphur, or sulphuret of potash. 
 
 The Chmese are said to bronze their copper vessels by taking 2 ouncea 
 of verdigris, 2 ounces of cinnamon, 5 ounces of sal ammoniac, and 5 
 ounces of alum, all in powder, making these into a paste with vinegar, 
 and spreading it upon the surface of the article, which should be pre- 
 viously brightened. The article is then held over a fire, till it become uni- 
 formly heated, then it is cooled, washed, and dried. It thus receives one, 
 two, or several of such coats, until the desired color is obtained. An ad- 
 dition of sulphate of copper to the mixture makes the color chesnut- 
 brown. 
 
68 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 A good method of bronzing copper articles, such as tea-urns, to prevent 
 them tarnishing, is described in most all the best treatises on chemistry. 
 It is as follows: The copper is first cleaned, then brushed over with per- 
 oxide of iron (generally colcothar) made into a paste with water or with 
 :i dilute solution of the acetate of copper. The article is then placed in 
 a niuftle in a furnace, and heated cautiously for some time, then taken out 
 and cooled. Upon brushing otJ' the oxide, the surface underneath is found 
 lo have acquired the desired hue. 
 
 Another method of bronzing copper is to brush it over with a paste of 
 Miick lead, place it over a clear fire till moderately heated, then brush it 
 ofi'. A very beautiful bronze is thus produced. The surface of the cop- 
 per must be perfectly bright when the black lead is applied, A thin film 
 of wax or tallow applied to copper, and the article placed on a clear fire 
 until the wax or grease begins to smoke, produces a bronzed surface. In 
 Jill these operations great care is necessary in managing the articles prop- 
 erly when subjecting them to the action of heat. 
 
 The following is a receipt which we have been told will produce a 
 beautiful dark bronze on brass: To 1 pound of muriatic acid add 6 
 ounces of- the peroxide of iron and 3 ounces of yellow arsenic; mix these 
 together and let the solution stand for about two days, shaking it occasion- 
 ally. The brass article, perfectly free from dirt and grease, is now to be 
 immersed in it, and allowed to stand for about three hours, when it turns 
 perfectly black. It is then lifted out, and washed well in soft water, and 
 dried in sawdust. After tbis it is coated with a paste of black lead used 
 for iron stoves, and when dry, it is polished witb a brush. After this it 
 may receive a thin coat of lac-varnish. 
 
 Dull Black Color on Brass. — The Practical Mechanic's Journal (Glas- 
 gow) states that the dull black so frequently employed for brass optical 
 instruments, may be produced as follows: Pirst rub the brass with trip- 
 oli, then wash it with a dilute solution of a mixture of one part of neutral 
 nitrate of tin, and two parts of chloride of gold ; allow the brass to remain 
 without wiping for about ten minutes, after which wipe it oft' with a wet 
 cloth. If there has been an excess of acid, the surface will have assumed 
 a dull black appearance. The neutral nitrate of tin is prepared by de- 
 composing perchloride of tin in ammonia, and dissolving the precipitated 
 oxide thus obtained in nitric acid. 
 
 Staining Marble. — A solution of the nitrate of silver stains marble 
 black ; a solution of verdigris applied hot stains it green ; a concentrated 
 solution of carmine applied hot stains it red ; orpiment dissolved in am- 
 monia stains it yellow; the sulphate of copper, blue; and a solution of 
 magenta, purple. The marble should be warmed before any of these 
 solutions are applied, so as to open its pores, and enable it to absorb more 
 of the coloring matter. Marble may be stained according to beautiful 
 designs with such colors. This art was more extensively practiced in 
 Italy during former ages than it is at present. 
 
 Hardening Wood for Pulleys. — After a wooden pulley is turned and 
 rubbed smooth, boil it for about eight minutes in olive oil, then allow it 
 to dry, after which it will ultimately become almost as hard as copper, 
 
 Case-Ziardening Iron. — The hardness and polish of steel may be united, 
 in a certain degree, with the firmness and cheapness of malleable iron, by 
 case-hardening; it is a superficial conversion of iron into steel. 
 
 The articles intended to be case-hardened, being previously finished, 
 with the exception of polishing, are stratified with animal carbon, and tho 
 box containing them luted with equal parts of sand and clay. They are 
 then placed in the fire, and kept at a light, red heat for half an hour 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 69 
 
 when the contents of the box are emptied into water. Delicate article** 
 jnay be preserved by a saturated solution of common salt, with any 
 vegetable mucilage, to give it a pulpy consistence. The animal carbon is 
 nothing more than any animal matter — such as horns, hoofs, skins, or 
 leather — suflBciently burned to admit of being reduced to powder. The 
 box is commonly made of iron; but the use of it, for occasional case-har' 
 dening upon a small scale, may easily be dispensed with, as it will answer 
 the same end to envelop the articles with the composition above directed 
 to be used as a lute; dry it, gradually, before it is exposed to a red heat, 
 otherwise it will probably crack. The depth of the steel, induced by case- 
 hardening, will vary with the time the operation is continued. 
 
 A very speedy and most excellent method of case-hardening is effected 
 by reducing some of the prussiate of potash to powder, and making it into 
 paste, rubbing it over the finished iron while it is at a red heat, and then 
 putting it in tiie fire again, and plunging it into water when the iron is 
 at a blood-red heat. Another method consists in covering the polished 
 iron with a paste of the prussiate of potash and flour, allowing it to dry, 
 then placing it in a clear fire until it becomes red hot, when it is plunged 
 into cold water. This may be repeated, to insure a greater depth of hard- 
 ening. 
 
 Enameling Cast-iron Vessels. — Reduce into fine powder and grind to- 
 gether nine parts of red lead, six parts of flint glass, two parts of purified 
 pearlash, two parts of purified saltpeter, and one part of borax. This is 
 put into a large crucible about half full, and melted until a clear glass is 
 obtained. This glass is then ground with water, and the cast-iron vessel 
 is covered with a coating of it, and then heated in a muflle in a furnace. 
 This will melt in a very short time if the furnace is at a good heat, and 
 the cast-iron vessel will be covered with a very fine black enamel of a 
 shining appearance. To make it tough, it should be put into an anneal- 
 ing oven. 
 
 Another very tine enamel for iron vessels is made as follows : Twelve 
 parts of flint glass, four parts of pearlash, four parts of saltpeter, two 
 parts of borax, and three parts of the oxide of tin calcined with common 
 salt. This is treated the same as described above, and makes a white 
 enamel. 
 
 The cast-iron articles to be enameled are scoured bright with sand and 
 dilute sulphuric acid, then dried, and the enamel pasts put on with a brush, 
 or poured on the surface, and the excess dripped of. This paste is dried 
 slowly in the air, and the articles baked in a hot over, until the paste fuses. 
 The heat is gradually raised to the melting point. 
 
 Silverivg by Powdered Tin. — A quantity of pure tin is melted and 
 poured into a box, which is then violently shaken ; the metal assumes, 
 when cold, the form of a very fine gray powder. This is sifted, to separ- 
 ate any coarse particles, and is mixed with melted glue. "When it is to 
 be applied, it should be reduced, by the addition of water, to the consis- 
 tence of thin cream, and is laid on with a soft brush, like paint. It ap- 
 pears, when dry, like a coat of gray water color; but when it is gone over 
 with an agate brusher, it exhibits a bright surface of polished tin. If the 
 glue is too strong, the burnisher lias no eflfect; and if too weak, the tin 
 crumbles off under the burnisher. A coating of white or gold-colored oil 
 "'•rnish, or lacquer, is immediately laid over it, according as it may be in- 
 tended to imitate silvering or gilding. This kind of gilding is often used 
 for covering wood, leather, iron, or other articles in constant wear. It is 
 very ornamental 
 
 Comjiosiiion for Welding Cast-Btcel.^%sk& tep p^rtf of Iwrax and 6n« 
 
70 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 part of Sfil ammoniac; grind tliem together and fuse them in a metal-pot 
 over a clear fire, taking care to continue the heat until all spume has dis- 
 appeared from the surface. When the liquid appears clear, the composi- 
 tion is ready to be poured out to cool and concrete, when it is ground to 
 a fine powder and is ready for use. To use this composition the steel is 
 put into the fire and raised to a bright yellow heat; it is then dipped into 
 the welding powder, and again placed into the fire, until it attains the 
 same degree of heat as before, when it is ready to be placed under the 
 hammer. 
 
 To Tin Small Articles. — To tin small articles, prepare a solution of the 
 chloride of zinc, which is done by feeding muriatic acid with scraps of 
 zinc until it will take up no more. A strong glass bottle is the best vessel 
 for this purpose. Let the solution settle, and then decant the clear, and 
 it is ready for use. Next prepare an iron pot, of such size as will suit 
 the purpose for the work to be done. Next put the pot on the fire, and 
 put in a sufilcient quantity of tin to cover the work. When the tin is 
 melted, put in as much beef or mutton tallow as will cover it about one 
 quarter of an inch thick, which must remain in a clear melted state, tak- 
 ing cure not to let it get on fire. The iron, or any other metal to be tin- 
 ned, must be well cleaned, either by filing or scraping, or polishing with 
 sand. Let the article to be tinned be then wet with the chloride of zinc 
 and carefully immersed in the tallow and melted tin, and if the article be 
 well cleaned, it will, in a very short time, be fairly and perfectly covered 
 with the tin, when it may be taken out. 
 
 To tin a piece of plated metal, say a piece of copper plated on one side 
 with silver, prepare a paste, which may be of couimon pipe-clay, and a 
 very little wheaten flour wet up with water. Then take a soft brush and 
 lay an even coat of the paste over the silver side, and lay it in a warm 
 place to dry; then, when dry, it may be immersed in the pot of melted 
 tallow and tin, as already described, and the copper side will be covered 
 with tin ; but the silver will be protected from the tin by the paste, which 
 may be removed by washing in water. 
 
 To G-ild Steel. — Make a neutral solution of gold in nitro-muriatic acid 
 (aqua regia), and pour into it a quantity of sulphuric ether; the ether 
 will take up the gold and float upon the denser acid. The article is 
 then to be washed with this auriferous ether (with a hair pencil) ; the 
 ether flies ofi", and the gold adheres. 
 
 To Silver Brass. — Take one part of chloride of silver (the white pre- 
 cipitate which falls when a solution of common salt is poured into a 
 solution of nitrate of silver or lunar caustic), three parts of pearlash, 
 one of whiting, and one and a half of common salt, or one part of chlo- 
 ride of silver, and. ten parts of cream of tartar, and rub the brass 
 with a moistened piece of cork dipped in the powder. 
 
 Tinning Cast-iron Articles. — Many articles, such as bridle-bits, small 
 nails, &c., are manufactured of tinned cast-iron. Saucepans, goblets, and 
 other hollow ironware, are tinned upon their inner surfaces. They are 
 first scoured bright with sand and dilute sulphuric or muriatic acid, then 
 washed thoroughly in soft water and dried. They are then placed over 
 H fire and heated, when grain tin is poured in, and the vessel moved so 
 as to roll the molten tin over the surface. Some powdered rosin is 
 added, to prevent oxide forming on the surface of the iron. Hollow ves- 
 sels of copper and brass are tinned in the inside in the same manner. 
 
 l\nning Iron. — Cast-iron articles to be tinned, are first scoured bright 
 with sulphuric acid and sand, then washed in clean warm water, and 
 dried. They are afterward coated with zinc, and a coat of tin is put 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 71 
 
 npon the lop of the zinc, by dipping the articles in molten tin. When 
 the tinning operation is linished, the articles are placed in boiling water, 
 and allowed to cool slowly. 
 
 Coloring Gold. — A solution of two ounces of alum, two of saltpeter 
 and one of sal ammoniac is used for cr>loring gold. Another pickle, used 
 for coloring gold, consists of nitric acid eight ounces, muriatic acid one 
 quart, sal ammoniac two ounces, alum one ounce, and water two gallons. 
 The articles of gold are dipped in this for a few seconds, then washed 
 thoroughly in pure water, and dried. Pale, brassy gold may be made 
 to assume a deep reddish shade by using such a pickle or "dip." 
 
 Preparing Kid Leather. — Yolk of Qg^ is largely used in the prepa- 
 ration of kid leather for gloves, in France, to give it the requisite soft- 
 ness and elasticit3\ The treatment of the skins in this manner is called 
 by the French glove-makers nourriture. As a substitute for the yolk 
 of eg2,.i the brains of certain animals, which, in chemical nature, closely 
 resemble the yolk of egg, have been used. For this purpose the brain 
 is mixed in hot Avater, passed through a sieve, and then made into dough 
 •with flour and the lye of wood ashes. The glove-leather is also steeped 
 for a short period in a weak solution of alum. The Indians of our 
 forests employ the brains of deer and buflalo, mixed with a weak lye 
 of wood ashes, and, after this, they smoke the skins; the pyroligneous 
 acid of the wood in the smoke accomplishes the same object as the alum 
 used by the French skin-dressers. Indian-prepared skins stand the action 
 of water in a superior manner to the French kid. Furs dressed in the 
 same manner resist the attacks of insects. It is believed that the carbonic 
 acid in the smoke is the preservative principle which renders the skins 
 tanned by the Indians superior to those tanned with alum and sumac in 
 the usual way. The skins are rubbed with the mixture of the brains of 
 the animals and the lye, by the squaws; then dried in the open air. Three 
 or four such applications are necessary before they are smoked in pits 
 covered with the bark of trees. 
 
 Tannhig Nets, Sails, and Cordage. — The cloth of awnings and sails, also 
 of nets and cordage, may be prepared in a simple manner to endure for 
 a far greater length of time than is usual with such articles. Take about 
 100 pounds of oak or hemlock bark, and boil it in 90 gallons of water, 
 until the quantity is reduced to 70 gallons; then take out the bark and 
 steep the cloth, sails, or cordage in the clear liquor for about twelve hours; 
 then take it out and dry it thoroughly in the atmosphere or in a warm 
 apartment. The cloth should be entirely covered with the tan liquor, and 
 should lie loose in it, so as not to press the folds too closely together. By 
 boiling the cloth or cordage in the tan liquor, it will be ready in a shorter 
 period. Sail and awning cloth, so prepared, will roii'-t the action of 
 damp for years, in situations where unprepared cloth will decay in a few 
 months. 
 
 Glazed Leather. — The basis for glazed, or what is called "enameled 
 leather," is boiled linseed oil. The oil is prepared by boiling it with metal- 
 lic oxides, such as litharge (oxide of lead) and white copperas (sulphate 
 of zinc) until it acquires a sirupy consistency. Five gallons of linseed 
 oil are boiled with four and a half pounds of white lead and the same 
 weight of litharge, until the whole becomes thick like cream. This mix- 
 ture is then combined with chalk in powder, or with yellow ocher, is 
 spread upon the leather, and worked into the pores with appropriate tools. 
 Three thin coats are thus applied, each dried before the other is put on, 
 and when the last is perfectly dry, the surface is rubbed down with 
 pumice-stone until it is quite smooth. A mixture of tho prepared oil, with- 
 
72 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 cut ocher or chalk, but rendered black with ivory-black and thinned with 
 turpentine, is now put on in one or two thin coat?, according to circum- 
 Fiances; then dried. The final coating consists of boiled linseed oil and 
 copal varnish, thinned with turpentine, and colored with lamp-black. The 
 apartment in which such leather is dried is maintained at a temperature 
 ranging from 134 to 170 (leg. F. White enameled leather is prepared in 
 the same manner; but white lead and chalk are exclusively used to thicken 
 tb.e oil. Copal varnish colored with lamp-black, will make very good 
 enameled leather, if it is put on in several thin coats, and dried after each 
 application. 
 
 Sulphurized Oil for Wood. — M. Lapparent, inspector of timber for tho 
 French navy, states that he prepared a paint for preserving timber, com- 
 posed of linseed oil, sulphur, and manganese, which was found very effec- 
 tual. Tlie flowers of sulphur were stirred into linseed oil in about equal 
 quantities, by weight, and about twelve per cent, of the oxide of manga- 
 nese added. This was applied to some oak logs, which were buried in a 
 manure heap for six months, when the wood was found to be uninjured 
 — no fungi being formed upon it. Unprepared wood subjected to the same 
 treatment was covered with fungi. 
 
 Nitrate of Silver. — The nitrate of silver is prepared by adding small 
 pieces of pure silver to nitric acid (aquafortis) until effervescence ceases. 
 The solution then formed is clear and caustic. It stains the hair, skin, 
 fmd almost all animal substances, black. When boiled for a considerable 
 period, it deposits beautiful clear crystals. It is very poisonous. Stains 
 of the nitrate of silver may be removed by the cyanide of potassium. 
 
 Cement for Mending Steam Boilers. — Mix two parts of finely-powdered 
 litharge with one part of very fine sand, and one part of quicklime, which 
 has been allowed to slake spontaneously by exposure to the air. This 
 mixture may be kept for any length of time without injury. In using it, 
 a portion is mixed into paste with linseed oil, or, still better, boiled in 
 linseed oil. In this state it must be quickly applied, as it soon becomes hard. 
 
 Cement for Joints of Petroleum Stills. — Take six pounds graphite (black 
 lead), three pounds of dry slaked lime, eight pounds of the sulphate of 
 barytes, and three pounds of boiled linseed oil, and mix them thoroughly 
 to<!;ether. The solid materials must be reduced to fine powder before being 
 stirred among the linseed oil. If the above quantity of oil is not sufficient 
 for making the cement sufficiently thin, add more, until the proper consis- 
 tency is obtained. 
 
 Linseed meal cake, reduced to powder, and mixed with water so as to 
 make it into a paste, makes a good lute for stills which are not subjected 
 to a temperature above 260 deg. F. 
 
 Marine Glue. — Dissolve four parts of India rubber in thirty-four parts 
 of coal-tar naphtha — aiding the solution with heat and agitation. The 
 Solution is then thick as cream, and it should be added to sixty-four parts 
 of powdered shellac, which must be heated in the mixture till all is dis- 
 solved. While the mixture is hot, it is poured on plates of metal in sheets 
 like leather. It can be kept in that state, and when it is required to be 
 used, it is put into a pot and heated till it is soft, and then applied with 
 a brush to the surface to be joined. Two pieces of wood joined with 
 this cement can scarcely be sundered; it is about as easy to break the 
 wood as the joint. 
 
 Cement for Leather Belts. — A strong solution of isinglass is the best 
 cement for joining leather bands. It may be kept from becoming moldy 
 by adding to it some whisky and a little of the essential oil of cloves, 
 or a little camphorated spirits. 
 
IHE HOUSE-KliEPER's GUIDE. 73 
 
 Cement for Attachiiig Ornaments to Wood. — A cement composed of glue, 
 chalk, and paper puip, is sometimes used for making architectural or- 
 naments, to be attached to wood. Another cement, used for the same 
 purpose is composed of fine sifted chalk, beeswax, and resin. Use equal 
 parts of resin and wax, then melt them, and add the chalk until tlie 
 composition attains the proper consisteuc}'. A strong solution of glue 
 and whiting makes a very good cement for ivory. 
 
 Rubber Cement. — Shreds of India-rubber or gutta-percha dissolved in 
 refined turpentine, or good naphtha, will make a good cement for rul>- 
 ber shoes, shoe soles, eic. 
 
 Boot and Shoe Ed(jc Blncking. — Bring half a gallon soft water to a 
 boil, and put in three-fourths of an ounce extract of logwood, and boil 
 three minutes; then remove from the fire, and stir in forty-eight grains 
 bichromate of potash, eight grains prussiate of potash, and one hundred 
 grains powdered gum arabic. 
 
 Varnish Blacking for Harness, etc. — Take one gallon alcohol and put 
 in half pound orange shellac, and let stand, tightly corked, till the gum 
 is all cut; then put in a tin vessel, which is to be set in boiling water 
 over the fire, and add one and a half pounds pine pitch, one gill sweet 
 oil, one gill Venice turpentine, and two ounces lamp-black, and heat till 
 all ere well niixed and thoroughly incorporated; then remove from the 
 tire, and continue stirring till cool. 
 
 Ceme7it for Brick Walts. — Bricks are very porous, and absorb moisture 
 freely; hence brick walls, exposed to long and severe rain-storms, fre- 
 quently become penetrated, so as to dampen the plastering inside, which 
 renders the room damp and unhealthy, besides injuring the wall. The 
 best water-tight composition that can be employed for such a purpose, is 
 a mixture of hydraulic cement and boiled linseed oil. 
 
 To Gild Iron and Steel vdth Gold. — Make a solution of eight ounces of 
 niter and common salt, with five ounces of crude alum, in a suflacient quan- 
 tity of water; dissolve half an ounce of gold, thinly plated and cut; then 
 evaporate to dryness. Now dissolve in rectified spirit of wine, or ether, 
 which will perfectly abstract the gold. The iron or steel is brushed over 
 with this solution, and takes on a fine gilt resembling gold. 
 
 To Silver Iroti and other Metals. — Dissolve pure silver in nitric acid 
 (aquafortis), and precipitate the silver with common salt ; make this pre- 
 cipitate into a paste, by adding a little more salt and cream of tartar. 
 Apply to the surface of the article to be silvered with a cork. 
 
 To Stain Wood a Mahogany Dark. — Boil half a pound of madder and 
 two ounces logwood in one gallon water, and brush the wood well over 
 with the hot liquid. When dry, go over the whole with a solution of two 
 drachms of pearl ash in one quart of water. 
 
 To Stain Mahogany Light. — Brush over the surface with dilute nitrous 
 acid, and, when dry, apply the following with a soft brush : Dragon's 
 blood, four ounces ; common soda, one ounce; spirit of wine, three pints. 
 Let it stand in a warm place, shaking frequently ; then strain. Eepeat 
 the application until the proper color is attained. 
 
 To Stmin Maple a Mahogany Color. — Dragon's blood, half ounce ; alka- 
 net, one-fourth ounce ; alaco, one drachm j spirit of wine, sixteen ounces. 
 Apply with a sponge or brush. 
 
 Rosewood. — Boil eight ouncea of logwood in three pints of water until 
 reduced one-half; apply it, boiling hot, two or three times, letting it div 
 between each application. Afterward put in the streaks with a camei- 
 
74 THE HOUSE-KEi]rER's GUIDE. 
 
 hair pencil, dipped in a solution of copperas and verdigris, in a decoctioti 
 of logwood. 
 
 Ehorty. — "Wash the wood repeatedly with a solution of sulphate of iron. 
 Let it dry; then apply a hot decoction of logwood and nutgalls for two 
 or three times. "When dry, wipe it with a wet sponge; and when it is 
 again dried, polish with linseed oil. 
 
 To Stain Wood Red. — Use a strong decoction of Brazil wood and alum. 
 
 To S-^ain Pine Black. — The pine sJiould be perfectly free from knots (as 
 they will not color), and a strong solution of hot logwood rubbed carefully 
 all over the board, and then it is allowed to dry. Another coat may be 
 given, or a number, according to the shade wanted. After the logwood 
 is dried, a solution of copperas should be applied in the same way as the 
 k>gwood. 
 
 Solders. — Soldering is the art of uniting the surfaces of metals together 
 ])y partial fusion, and the insertion of an alloy between the edges, which 
 is called solder, it being more fusible than the metals which it unites. 
 Holders are distinguished as hard and soft, according to their difficulty of 
 fusion. Hard solders usually melt only at a red heat, but soft solders fuse 
 at lower temperatures. In applying solder, it is of the utmost importance 
 that the edges to be united should be chemically clean — free from oxide; 
 jind they should be protected from the air by some flux. The common 
 fluxes used in soldering are borax, sal ammoniac, and resin. Hard silver 
 solder is composed of four parts of fine silver and one of copper, made 
 into an alloy, and rolled into sheets. It is quite difficult of fusion. Soft 
 silver solder is composed of two parts of silver, one part of brass, and a 
 little arsenic, which is added at the last moment in melting them. It will 
 be understood that these alloys are commonly run into convenient bars, 
 or strips, for use. Silver solders are used for soldering silver work, gold, 
 sLeel, and gun-metal. A neater seam is produced with it than with soft 
 solder. It is commonly fused with the blow-pipe. A strip of thin silver 
 solder is laid on the joint to be closed, the blow-pipe is brought to bear 
 upon it, when it melts and runs into the joint, filling it up completely. 
 Button solder is employed to solder white metals, such as mixtures of 
 copper and tin. It is composed of tin, ten parts; copper, six; brass, four. 
 The copper and brass are first melted, then the tin is added. "When the 
 whole is melted, the mixture is stirred, then poured into cold water and 
 granulated, then dried and pulverized, in a mortar, for use. This is called 
 granulated solder. If two parts of zinc are added to this alloy, it makes 
 a more fusible solder. Fine gold cut into shreds is employed as a solder 
 for joining the parts of chemical apparatus made of platinum. Copper, 
 cut into shreds, is used as a solder for iron. Hard silver solders are fre- 
 quently reduced to powder, and used in that condition. Soft solder con- 
 sists of two parts of tin and one of lead. An excellent solder is made of 
 equal parts of Banca-tin and pure lead. It is used for soldering tin-plate, 
 and, if well made, it never fails. 
 
 Startuig Fires under Boilers. — ^A very mischievous practice exists in 
 various parts of the country in reference to starting tires under steam- 
 boilers preparatory to raising steam; this duty is intrusted to ignorant 
 watchmen, who are too often the agents of disaster. Those men are in- 
 structed to light the tire at a certain hour, and generally comply with 
 tiieir orders, without exercising the least judgment on the subject; they 
 rarely try the gauges, to see that there is water in the boiler, before ful- 
 filling their duty. W^ can call to mind several accidents, or injuries, that, 
 have occurred to boilers from this very cause. The Detroit Locomotive 
 Works once bad a boiler heated so hot, by the carelessness of a watchman, 
 
THE nOUSE-KEEPER's GUIDE. 75 
 
 as to "burn the felt lagging on the outside; and many otlier similar cases 
 might also he cited. We liave known instances where watchmen have 
 started the fires under gangs of cylinder boilers, and raised steam in them 
 to such an extent as to drive the water out of some into the others not in 
 use, or not so full, thus running the risk of burning the boilers, and 
 causing no end of delay and loss. The men in question ought not to be 
 permitted to meddle in any way with a steam-boiler; and no persons, 
 except those who are skilled in the inanagemcnt of them, and who are 
 conversant Avith the properties of steam, should, under any circumstances, 
 be intrusted with their control. Too many lives have be'en lost, and too 
 much property scattered to the winds, by the ignorance of those who were 
 temporarily left in charge of boilers. 
 
 Neio C/iTonie Green. — The London C/iemical News gives the following 
 receipt for manufacturing a beauti-ful new chrome green-color, adapted 
 fur painting and topical printing: Take ten ounces of boiling water, and 
 dissolve in it one ounce of the bichromate of potash, and to this add six 
 pints of the biphosphate of lime, and three ounces of brown sugar. "When 
 these sul)stances are mixed, a disengagement of gas takes place, and the 
 liquid fumes. It is allowed to stand until this action ceases; then it is 
 decanted, and left to stand for about ten hours, when a beautiful green- 
 color is deposited. It is washed with cold water, and dried in a warm 
 room. The green-color thus obtained is stated to be fixed on cloth, in 
 printing, by mixing it with albumen. It may be used both as a watev- 
 color and as an oil-paint. 
 
 Prevention of Decay in Tanber. — The treatment of timber, to secure it 
 from rapid decay, is a subject of great importance to ship-builders, rail- 
 way engineers, bridge-builders, and all others who are interested in the 
 preservation of wooden structures intended to be exposed to the winds, 
 the waters, and the weather. Iron is, undoubtedly, taking the place of 
 timber, with advantage, for many purposes; but the latter material is so 
 convenient, and so capable of being shaped and combined in suitable 
 forms, that it will alwaj's be used to a great extent. One of its chief 
 defects is its liability to rapid decay, depending upon its condition, and 
 the circumstances connected with its application. Every item of infor- 
 mation, therefore, which will tend to promote its durability is of great 
 value. 
 
 The sap of timber is composed of nitrogenous elements, which are called 
 uns-fable, because, under certain circumstances, they are so liable to change, 
 producing rot. When timber is treated so as to alter the nature of the 
 sap, or to dry it completely, by what is called seasoning^ it resists decay 
 more eft'ectually than if used without being dried. jNIoisture and contined 
 air tend to procure decay in timber; and, on the other hand, timber, ex- 
 posed to a free circulation of air, and shielded from moisture, will retain 
 its strength, almost unimpaired, for centuries. The oak beams, rafters, 
 and other timbers of old churches and houses which were built beft)ro 
 the plastering of walls was introduced, have remained sound for six and 
 seven hundred years. Of course, ships can not be kept dry, but if their 
 timbers are well seasoned before they are exposed to the elements, it has 
 been found, by experience at the French naval dock-yards, that they will 
 endure five times longer than timbers not thoroughly seasoned. 
 
 It is well known that when timber is steeped for a certain period in 
 water, then exposed to the air to dry, it seasons more rapidl}'. It has 
 been customary, therefore, to immerse ship-timber in water prior to dry- 
 ing it. On this hea.d, M. Lapparent states, that the practice of those ship- 
 biilders who steep their tiiriber in sea-water is wrong, and that fresb 
 
76 THE 5j<)USf;-KKfc:rER's gi:ide. 
 
 "wattjr is the n.ost suitable fur this purpose. For oak ]>laJiki!)g, he states, 
 it should be steeped one year in river water, two years in fresh water, not 
 Ko frequently changed; while in brackish water, continually changing, it 
 requires three years' immersion. 
 
 In drying timber to season it, exposure to the air is the most simple 
 method, but this requires a very long period of time for large ship- timber. 
 Aiiother method consists in drying it in large rooms exposed to currents 
 of hot air driven in by fans. By this system, the surface of the timber 
 is liatfle to become dry, and crack b<^forc the interior is seasoned, and, for 
 jlunkir.g, it is, therefore, objectionable. Another method has latel}" been 
 tried near Cherbourg, France, which consists in exposing it to the smoke, 
 fleam, and gas of wood and coal under combustion. The small amount 
 of moisture iu the smoke prevents the timber from cracking, and M. Lap- 
 j.arent looks upon this mode witii favor. J]ut his favorite method in 
 treating timber, to ]«r(.'vent its decay, is the charring of its surface. He 
 states Chat this plan was once tried, during the last century, in the British 
 royal dock-yards; that the frigate " Koyal William'' was built of carbon- 
 ized timber, and that it was one of the most remarkable cases of durabil- 
 ity on record. This system has been revived in France, with improved 
 apparatus, and it is about to be extended to all the dock-yards in the 
 empire. The timber to be operated upon is secured upon an adjustable 
 table, and its surface is slightly charred by a flame of gas mingled with a 
 jet of air. The consumption of gas is '^UO gallons for 10 square feet of 
 carbonized surface, and one man can carbonize 440 square feet in ten 
 hours. Some timber is imj^roved by giving its surface a very thin coat 
 of tar before it is charred. It is stated that the whole surface of timber 
 is carbonized with great uniformitj' by this method; and M. Lapparent 
 gays : " It ought to be applied to every surface in contact with^ or in gen- 
 eral intended to be surrounded b}', moist and stagnant air." It is also 
 recommended for treating the beams and joints of house-timber intended 
 to be imbedded in the walls, or surrounded with plaster. By carboniza- 
 tion, a practical and economical means is also olfered to railway com- 
 panies of preserving, almost forever, their sleepers, particularly those of 
 oak. In France, the annual cost for vine-props amounts to no less thau 
 $24,000,000. By chari'ing these, this cost will be reduced two-thirds, and 
 H relative saving will also be eti'ected in thus treating hop-poles. As the 
 vine and the hop are extensively cultivated in America, this system also 
 deserves the attention of our people who raise these agricultural' products. 
 
 In building ships, ^M. Lapparent suggests that horizontal holes should 
 be bored through the ribs, at certain distances apart, and there should be 
 spaces between the outer and inner planking, to permit currents of air to 
 bo driven between the ribs ; also that portion of the ribs should be 
 smeared with a paint composed of flowers of sulphur, 200 parts; linseed 
 oil, 135 parts ; and manganese, 30 parts, to jirevent the development of 
 fungi. In conclusion, IM. Lapparent says : " 1 have pointed out the means 
 for preventing the rapid decay of timber; they are simple, logical, eco- 
 nomical, easy of adoption, and perfectly innocuous. By employing them, 
 we shall save that timber for building ships, which is, in my opinion, fur 
 superior to iron for the same purpose." 
 
 A correspondent of the Liondon Bui I iler states that the Belgian Govern- 
 ment now require all the wood-sleepers used on the state railways to be 
 creosoted, and the Government of Holland has adopted a similar resolu- 
 tion. The creosote used is simply what is called the "dead oil" of coal 
 tar. M. Crepin, a Belgian engineer, has also made a series of experiments 
 with creosoted timuer, iu hart>OTt ftud docks; and iu bis report, ktoly puU 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 77 
 
 lished, he states that timber so treated was found successful in resisting 
 the attacks of marine worms. Timber is used to a greater extent in Amer- 
 ica than in any country of tm equal population in the world. If, by any 
 mode of treatment, our ship, bridge, railway, house, fence, and other tim- 
 ber can be rendered twice or three times more durable, a saving to that 
 extent may not only be effected in material, but in the labor required for 
 preparing and applying it. All the processes, therefore, which have been 
 set forth for preventing the rapid decay of timber deserve careful and 
 general attenion, because they relate to interests which affect every class 
 in the community. 
 
 Peirolemn for Preservwg Wood. — The oil-wells near Prome, in Burmah, 
 have been in use from time immemorial. Wood, both for ship-building 
 and house-bu'ilding, is invariably saturated^ or coated, with the products 
 of those wells. The result is entire immunity from decay, and the ravages 
 of the white ants that, in that country, are so generally destructive. M. 
 Crepin, a Belgian Government engineer, who has tried experiments upon 
 the relative advantages of creosote and sulphate of copper for the preser- 
 vation of timber in marine constructions from the attacks of worms, «fec., 
 says that creosoting is the only process he has found to succeed for this 
 purpose. He states that sulphate of copper affords no protection whatever 
 against the action of salt-water and marine insects. 
 
 Another Method. — In order to prevent wooden posts and piles from rot- 
 ting while in the ground, the following receipt will be found to answer 
 every purpose : Fifty parts of resin ; forty parts of finely-powdered chalk; 
 about three hundred parts of fine hard sand ; four parts of linseed oil ; 
 one part of red oxide of lead, and one part of sulphuric acid, are mixed 
 together. The resin, chalk, sand, and linseed oil are heated together in 
 an iron boiler; the red lead and the sulphuric acid are then added. They 
 are carefully mixed, and the composition is applied while hot. If it be 
 not found sufficiently fluid, it may be made thinner by adding some mora 
 linseed oil. This paint, when cold and dry, forms a varnish of the hard- 
 ness of stone. 
 
 Testing Gilded and Silver Articles. — The following methods are em- 
 ployed in the German revenue-offices for testing the value of articles that 
 nre gilded or silvered, and described in the Ze.itschr. Deutsch. Ingenieure : 
 
 Testing of Gold. — The ordinary method of testing gold is founded upon 
 the insolubility of this metal in nitric acid. If a mark be made on the 
 "touch-stone" with the article under examination, the gold is not dis- 
 solved by this acid, whereas gokhm-colored alloys of inferior value are dis- 
 solved and disappea.r immediately. When articles are very thinly gilded, 
 the detection of the gold in this manner is uncertain, in which case the 
 following method may be used with advantage. This process depends 
 upon the fact that an aqueous solution of chloride of copper is without 
 action on gold, whereas, on golden-colored alloys, as brass, pinchbeck, «fcc., 
 it produces a black spot. 
 
 A little carbonate of copper is put into a test-tube, and to this is added, 
 drop by drop, pure hydrochloric acid, till the blue powder has dissolved to 
 !v clear green fluid, occasionally warming it over a spirit-lamp. This 
 concentrated solution of chloride of copper is diluted for use with fron\ 
 ten to eleven times its volume of distilled water. Before testing, the 
 metallic surfjice must be well cleaned. This can be done effectually by 
 brushing it for a minute or two with a little spirits of wine; or better, 
 with absolute alcohol. 
 
 The surface having dried, a little of the testing fluid is dropped on, and 
 allowed to remain in contact for about a minute. The fluid is then re- 
 
78 THE HOUSE-KEEPEll's GUIDE. 
 
 moved, by means of a small pipette, and the surface of the metal com- 
 pletely dried with bibulous paper; if no dark spot be then visible, the 
 jirticle is coated with pure gold. If the metallic surface is but I'.ghtly 
 gilded, a very slight blackening is sometimes remarked, which may throw 
 a doubt upon the result. In such a case, to make quite certain, a little 
 of the surface may be scraped off, and then the testing fluid again 
 applied. If a dark spot is then perceived, the article may be considered 
 as very thinly gilded. 
 
 If a further and more direct proof of the presence of gold is required, 
 the article to be examined, or a piece of it, may be put into a porcelain 
 cup, and as much pure nitric acid poured over as will half cover it. 
 The thin layer of gold covering the surface does not prevent the metal 
 from being attacked by the acid, and the gold becoming separated, floats 
 in thin films on the top of the liquid. The green metallic solution is 
 now removed, and more nitric acid poured over the gold spangles: it 
 is then somewhat «warmed, and water finally added. The gold has now 
 been fully tested by its insolubility in nitric acid, and it only remains 
 to ascertain that it dissolves to a yellow solution in warm aqua regia. 
 
 Thin gilding of this description is often met with in the French mock 
 jewelry; the coating is sometimes so thin that it not only deceives the 
 eye, but it is difficult to test by the ordinary methods. Instead of put- 
 ting the entire article into the acid, and thus risking its demolition, a 
 portion of the surface may be scraped off with a knife, and tested with 
 the nitric acid. When an article appears to be made of massive gold, 
 the testing by means of the "touchstone" should be first resorted to. 
 
 Testing of Silver. — The ordinary and very accurate method of testing 
 of silver is founded upon the insolubility of chloride of silver in dilute 
 acids and in water. This otherwise satistactory test is, however, difficult 
 to carry out when an article is very thinly plated with silver; but in 
 all these cases a simple and very accurate test can be used, which is 
 based upon the reaction of chromic acid upon metallic silver. For this 
 purpose testing fluid is prepared by adding pure nitric acid to powdered 
 red chiomate of potash, and mixing them in such a manner that a part 
 of the latter remains in suspension, the whole being kept well stirred 
 during the nnxing. Equal parts by weight of each may be taken. The 
 r.itric must be quite free from hydrochloric acid, and have the proper de- 
 gree of concentration, being neither too fuming nor too dilute; it should 
 have a specific gravity between 1.20 and 1.25. When the mixture has 
 been ]->rppared for a few hours, and then stirred several times, the reddish- 
 colored liquid is poured off from the I'esidue and kept in a stoppered bottle. 
 A dro]> of this liquid is then brought in contract with the metal to bo test- 
 ed, and immediately washed off again with water. If a visible blood-red 
 &]K)t remaJJis, silver is present. 
 
 This method requires only the following precautions: First, the met- 
 allic surface must have been quite cleansed from grease, &C., with 
 ppirits of wine; secondly, water must be poured over the treated surface 
 before judging of the color, as that of the testing fluid is altered by the 
 inetal, and the red precipitate is not distinctly visible until the colored 
 liquid has been washed off. The red spot can afterward be very easily 
 removed with the finger. 
 
 By this method the slightest trace of silver in an alloy may be ascer- 
 tained. When an article is suspected to be only thinly plated, a very mi- 
 nute drop of the testing fluid should be used.. With no other metal or 
 alloy does this red spot, so characteristic of silver, appear. In some casea 
 the testing fluid only corrodes the surface of the metal, while in others 
 
THE house-keeper's guide. 79 
 
 colored precipitates are formed, which, however, can not be confounded 
 with those of eilver. German-silver, brought into contact with the testin*^ 
 fluid, affords no red spot after being washed. The spot will, however 
 have been strongly corroded. 
 
 Britannia metal yields a black spot; zinc is strongly corroded; pin- 
 tinum is not attacked; lead gives a yellow precipitate; tin is strongly 
 affected by the fluid; when the brownish-colored testing fluid is waslicd 
 ofl", a yellow precipitate is perceived, which adheres tightly to tlie metnl ; 
 copper is strongly attacked; a tarnished surface of this metal is bright- 
 ened by the action of the acid. Bismuth yields a yellow precipitate; 
 jiUtiraony does not ; by this means, therefore, these two metals, some- 
 what similar in many respects, can easily be distinguished. Mercury, 
 or an amalgamated surface, yields a reddish-brown precipitate, which, 
 however, is entirely washed away by the water, and is not likely to be 
 confounded with the silver reaction. 
 
 DestrncUve effects of Iron Rust. — The last published report of the Smith- 
 sonian Institution contains a translation from a German publication on the 
 above subject, which affords considerable information of a useful and inter- 
 esting character, some of which we shall present in a condensed form. 
 It states that it has been frequently observed that, in the timber of old 
 ships, the wood, in the proximity of iron-bolts, is entirely altered in its 
 character. Around each bolt, for a space exceeding one inch, part of tl:e 
 wood is dissolved away, and the remainder is quite brittle, and easily 
 broken. The appearance of such wood is such as if it were produced by 
 driving in red-hot iron bolts. This injurious efl^ect of iron-rust is one of 
 the principal causes of the want of durability in iron-fastened ships. Rust 
 not only originates where the iron is alternately exposed to water and the 
 air, but also where the iron is permanently submerged under water. It 
 is generally known that rust is an oxide of iron, but as soon as it comes 
 into contact with wood, it gives off part of its oxygen, and becomes the 
 prot(/xide. The latter takes up a new portion of oxygpn, and transfers 
 it to the wood, and, by the uninterrupted repetition of tnis process, a slow 
 decay of the wood is effected. The protoxide of iron, m this case, plays 
 a part similar to nitric oxide in the manufacture of sulphuric acid. 
 
 In order to demonstrate the fact that oxide of iron is reduced by mere 
 contact with organic substances (such as wood) not yet in a state of putre- 
 faction, M. Kuhlman, of Lille, has instituted different experiments, the 
 results of which confirm the correctness of this assertion. When hydrated 
 oxide of iron, for example, was mixed with cold solutions of logwood, 
 cochineal, corcuma, and mahogany, they were decolorized, and the iron 
 was found in a state of protoxide, the oxide having lost a portion of its 
 oxygen by the action of the coloring matter. In every-day life, the de- 
 structive eff"ects of the oxide of iron have been noticed. For example, 
 linen or cotton cloth, containing ink-stains, becomes tender in its texture, 
 in the stained spots, after repeated washings, and the spots ultimately fall 
 out, leaving holes in the fabric. When cloth that is colored with cop- 
 peras, to form a black, is submitted to an alkaline ley, the protoxide of 
 iron is changed into an oxide, and the cloth becomes feeble in the texture; 
 and the usual saying in such cases is, " It is burnt in dyeing." Accord- 
 ing to Kuhlman, the oxide of iron transfers oxj^gen directly to the cloth, 
 producing slow combustion of the fiber. This is useful information f-r 
 dyers, as it explains the cause of an evil connected with preparing cotton 
 cfoth, which has hitherto baffled much scrutiny and experiment to dis- 
 cover. It is also well known to bleachers, that when pieces of c(^tton 
 cloth become stained with iron-rust they are liable to drop out, leaving 
 
80 THE HOUSE-KEEI'tU S GLIDE. 
 
 liolefi, as if they had been gprinkled with sulphuric aeiJ. Every spot of 
 iron-rust should, therefore, be immediately discharged, when noticed, by 
 the use of dilute hydrochloric acid and warm water, or oxalic acid and 
 warm water. 
 
 In ship-building, iron nails and bolts should never be used. In all caies, 
 <opper or brass-fiistenings should be employed where first cost is not an 
 essential object. In cases where the expense will not warrant the u^e of 
 copper-bolts, the iron-bolts should be galvanized. Recently we have 
 noticed, with nuich satisfaction, the extended use of zinc-covered iron- 
 1 v)lts by our ship-builders. This is a step in the right direction ; but, so 
 f.u- as we are informed, such bolts are confined to the construction of sea- 
 going vessels. All our river-boats and schooners should be fastened with 
 tiio same kind of bolts, because they are nearly as essential for vessels 
 running on fresh water as those on salt. 
 
 To Put a Paper "■Pusitive'' into a Lool'mg-giass. — Having cut out the 
 picture, take a quarter plate-glass, well cleaned, lay a sheet of tin-foil on 
 I wo or three thicknesses of cloth or paper, and spread some quicksilver 
 with a piece of cotton-wool. Next, attach the portrait with varnish to the 
 glass. All l;eing ready, lay a sheet of clean paper on the top of the quick- 
 hilver, and place the glass, with portrait attached, on the sheet of paper. 
 Now press hard, and draw out the sheet of paper gently. The quicksilver 
 Vvill run round the edge of the portrait, njaking a beautiful looking-glass, 
 with a portrait in the center, giving an ellect sometliing like a daguer- 
 reotype. 
 
 Water-glass in Soap. — In the last number of S'dlimans Jov.rmil^ ]M r. 
 J. M. Ordway. who has devoted uiucii attt.-ntion to tlie cou:iposition and 
 application oi alkaline silicates, states that a mild silicate (water-glass) is 
 niiw manufactured in Boston and Nev/ York, and has come into very 
 general use among soap-makers. It is used as a substitute for resin, whicii 
 had been largely employed in the manufacture of soa]), before the block- 
 ado of the Southern ports. It materially reduces the cost of soMp, and 
 inparts neither e(.)lor nor smell to it. About sixt}- per cent, of the fluid 
 silicate, it is stated, may be mixed with Ihe common materials that are 
 employed for nuiking bar-soap. Mr. Ordway says : "It is certainly quite 
 Siif<! to incorporate twenty-live or thirty })Ounds of liquid water-glass with 
 one hundred pounds of pure oleostearate of soda. The compound thus 
 produced has greater detersive power than common soap." 
 
 Cement for Crockery^ Queensware, etc. — Take 10 or 15 cents worth of com- 
 mon gum shellac, and boil in a pint or more of water till it becomes 
 perfectly soft and plastic ; now raise it out of the water with a flat stick, 
 and pull and work it with the hands, the same as moUsses candy. 
 
 Directions for use. — Heat the edges of the parts to be mended by a 
 spirit-lamp or hot stove, till hot enough to readily melt the wax wheu 
 rabbed over the broken edges, so as to leave a thin coating, on every 
 part to be joined, like varnish; having applied the cement in this way to 
 :iil parts of the broken edges, hold them again to the fire, and as soon as 
 liot enough to be thoroughly plastic, put the parts immediately together, 
 and press firmly till cold. The cement must be sufficiently M'arm to 
 permit of its being pressed out so as to make a close joint, otherwise it 
 will not be strong. In case of a failure to do this the first time, heat the 
 disii again, and press hard as before. A large dish, broken irregularly, 
 can be heated in the oven of a cook-stove, and handled with clotha. This 
 cemeut will stand washing in warm water. 
 
FARMERS' DEPARTMENT. 
 
 To Make Cheese. — Skim -milk does not make good cheese. Take fresh 
 milk, and heat it to ninety degrees before you put in the rennet. Three 
 quarts of milk yield about a pound of cheese. Allow a quart of lukewarm 
 water and a table-spoonful of salt to a piece of rennet about the size of 
 your hand. The rennet must soak all night. 
 
 Put the milk into a large tub, warming a part until it is of a degree of 
 heat quite equal to new; if lou hot, the cheese will be tough. Put in as 
 much rennet as will turn it, and cover it over. Let it stand until com- 
 pletely turned; then strike the curd down several times with the skim- 
 ming-dish, and let it separate, still keeping it covered. There are two 
 modes of breaking the curd; and there will be a difference in the taste 
 of the cheese, according as either is observed ; one is, to gather it with the 
 hands very gently toward the side of the tub, letting the whey pass 
 through the fingers till it is cleared, and lading it off as it collects; the 
 other is, to get tbe whey from it, by breaking the curd. This last method 
 de})rives it of many of its oily particles, and is, therefore, less proper. 
 
 Put the vat on a ladder over the tub, and fill it with curd by the skim- 
 mer; press the curd close with your hand, and add more as it sinks; and 
 it must be, finally, left two inches above the Q(\gQ. Before the vat is filled, 
 the cheese-cloth must be laid at the bottom ; and, when full, drawn smooth 
 over all round. 
 
 There are two modes of salting cheese; one, by mixing it in the curd 
 while in the tub, after the v.hey is out; and the other, by putting it in the vat, 
 and crumbling the curd all to pieces with it, after the first squeezing with 
 the hands has dried it. Put a board under and over the vat, and place 
 it in the press ; in two hours turn it out, and put on a fresh cheese-cloth: 
 press it again for eight or nine hours ; then salt it all over, and turn it 
 again in the vat, and let it stand in the press fourteen or sixteen hours, 
 observing to put the cheese last made undermost. Before putting them 
 the last time into the vat, pare the edges if they do not look smooth. 
 
 Managemeyitof Cream in Cold Weather. — For some reason not yet known, 
 cream, skimmed from milk in cold weather, does not come to butter when 
 churned so quickly as that from the same cow in warm weather. Perhaps 
 tbe pelicles, which form the little sacs of butter in the cream, are thicker 
 and tougher. There are two methods of obviating this trouble in a great 
 degree. One is, to set the pan of milk on the stove, or in some warm 
 j)lace, as soon as strained and let it remain until quite warm — some say 
 until a liubble or two rises, or until a skim of cream begins to form on 
 the surface. Another mode recommended, is to add a table-spoonful of 
 Bait to a quart of cream ; then it is skimmed. Cream, thus prepared, will 
 generally come to butter in a few minutes, when churned. It is thought 
 the salt acts upon the coating of the butter globules, and makes them ten- 
 der, so that they break readily when beaten by churning. 
 
 We believe, upon good authority and practice, that the best tempera- 
 ture for churning milk is about 62 degrees Fahrenheit. It should never 
 much exceed, or be allowed to fall, below this. If churned at a lowor 
 Hi 
 
82 THE HOUSE-KEEl'Ell 8 GUIDE. 
 
 temperature, the "butter will not separjito freely; and if churned atahigher 
 teinperature, a considerable portion of the casen is always found combined 
 with the butter. This gives it a lard-like appearance and taste. By the 
 addition of hot or cold water, as may be required, and the use of the ther- 
 mometer, to test the temperature, there is but little trouble experienced 
 in churning it. 
 
 A New Method of Making Butter. — Put your sweet milk into tin pans, 
 and simmer on the stove for fifteen or twenty minutes, being careful not 
 to l)urn the milk; then churn in the usual manner. This will produce 
 butter immediately, and of a far superior quality to that made in the or- 
 dinary wa3% and will keep sweet much longer. Besides, the milk being 
 left sweet, is nearly as good for other purposes. 
 
 Packing Butter. — After laying down the first churning, make a strong 
 brine, and cover it three or four inches deep. When you are ready to lay 
 down the next one, turn olf the brine, pack your butter firml}^, and again 
 cover it with the pickle, and so on till your firkin or jar is full, when it 
 is to be headed or covered up with the brine on. In this way it will keep 
 sweet two years. 
 
 Preserving Meat Under Ground. — Dig a hole in the earth, from four to 
 six feet deep, and large enough for the amount of meat you have to 
 cure; lay boards on the bottom, and on this pack your meat in salt — 
 the usual quantity — and then cover the hole with boards and earth, 
 keeping it in this condition till the meat is sufficiently salted. By this 
 mode of preserving, no person need lose a pound of meat in the warmest 
 climate. 
 
 Curing Bacon without Smoke. — Kill your hogs as early as the weather 
 will allow, and salt as soon as the nominal heat is gone, with plenty of 
 pure salt, and from one-half to one ounce of salpeter to each 100 pounds 
 of pork. As soon as the meat is salted to the taste, which generally will 
 be in about five weeks, take it o^it, and if any of it has been covered with 
 brine, let it drain a little. Then take black pepper, finely ground, and 
 dust on the hocks as much as will stick; then hang up in a good, clean, 
 dry, airy place. If all this is done as it should be, you will have no fur- 
 ther trouble with it, for by fly time in spring, your bacon will be so well 
 cured on the outside that flies or bugs will not disturb it. 
 
 Curing Hams. — The following method of curing ham is given by R. 
 M. Conklin, in the Country Gentleman: After cutting oat the hams, 
 they are looped by cutting through the skin so as to hang in the smoke- 
 rooms hank downward ; then take any clean cask, of proper dimensions, 
 which is not necessary to be water-tight; cover the floor or bottom with 
 course salt ; rub the hams in fine salt, especially about the bony parts, and 
 })lace them on the bottom of the cask with the rind down, covering the 
 tioor of the cask first; sprinkle dry fine salt evenly all over them wher- 
 ever it will lie, so as to cover them perhaps half an inch ; then lay others 
 on them, letting the shank dip or incline considerably, placing salt in 
 all cases between them where they come in close contact with each 
 other or with the sides of the cask ; small lumps of salt will be found 
 very convenient for this purpose. Sprinkle fine salt over this as before 
 directed, giving the thick part of the ham a good share, as the shank 
 begins more and more to incline downward. Proceed in this way until 
 the hams are all salted, always observing to place them skin down and 
 flesh side up ; and if they sometimes get standing too much on end, the 
 difficulty may be obviated by using a small piece of pork as a cheek. Let 
 them lie about five weeks, if of ordinary size; if larger, six weeks, and 
 then smoke them. 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 83 
 
 I have constructed n smoke-room over my kitchen, in the garret— mado 
 dark — and so as to admit smoke from the chimney. Here I hang the 
 nams and let in smoke until they are smoked enough, and this completos 
 the entii'e operation; nothing more is done — no securing against flies, for 
 thej'^ never enter this dark chamber, and when we want a ham we go to 
 the smoke-chamber, and take it from the hook. During a period of 
 twenty-flve years, I have nut lost a ham ; but before adopting this mode, 
 through careless smoking, injudicious salting, or from flies, I was continu- 
 ally suffering disappointment with my hams. Possibly hams may have a 
 better flavor by using other ingi-edients with salt, yet where I have iiad 
 opportunities of tasting such cured hams., I confess my inability to detect 
 their superiority. 
 
 Sugar-cured Hams. — For one hundred pounds moat take seven pounds 
 salt, five pouwds sugar, two ounces saltpeter, and one half ounce saleratus, 
 and dissolve in four gallons of water. Heat and skim it; then pour on 
 your meat, sufficient to cover, and let it lay eight weeks ; then take out 
 and smoke, after which bag them and hang them up with the little end 
 down. 
 
 Setting Sweet Potatoe Plants. — It is better to prepare your ground im- 
 mediately before the planting, as the freshly-prepared ground is much 
 looser, and is, therefore, more suitable 'to receive the plants. Having got 
 the ground together with your plants all ready, no matter how dry the 
 weather, commence about the middle of the afternoon, having tubs or 
 barrels of water conveniently situated, and use about a tea-cupful of 
 water to each plant. The ground being loose, the four fingers of the 
 right hand are passed down about their length into the earth, and the dirt 
 pulled up so as to make a hole large enough for a cup of water. Witli 
 your left hand, carefully set your plant down as it should stand. Now 
 let some person pour on the cup of water, which will cause the fibrous 
 roots to swim and straighten out and stand in their natural position. Now 
 quickly let the dirt in your right hand be conducted around your plant 
 in as loose a manner as possible, leaving the top of the plant properly 
 out of the ground. No packing is desirable in this case. Ey using this 
 method we never have to wait for a suitable season, but get the plants 
 ready as soon as possible. Thus set they commence growing right along, 
 and live and do better than if planted in any other way, unless it is a 
 very favorable season. Much time is saved, and we have a much larger 
 and more abundant crop. If the water is slightly manured, it will still 
 be better. 
 
 To Keep Sweet Potatoes.— To keep the sweet potato for use through 
 the winter requires much care. One great requisite is, to have the potatoes 
 gathered before they are injured b}' frost or by remaining in cold soil after 
 the vines are killed. Another ver}' important item is to have them care- 
 fully handled. If they are dry when brought from the field, they may be 
 put up the following day; if moist, they should be allowed to di-y 24 hours 
 before putting up. If muddy and wet, a longer time is needed. Throw 
 out all cut and bruised ones. 
 
 The potatoes ma}'^ be placed in boxes or bins of any convenient size, 
 only that they must not contain potatoes more than 16 inches in depth, 
 and if placed one above another must have an air space of at least two 
 inches between the bottom of one and the top of another. They should 
 be raised from the floor four inches, and not nearer any wall than three 
 inches. Sprinkle a little sand in the bottom of the box, then fill half full 
 of potatoes, then shovel in sand until the crevices are well filled, then till 
 up with potatoes and finish with sand, having an inch of sund above the 
 
84 THE HOUSE- keeper's GUIDE. 
 
 top of the potatoes. The pand should be dry, dusty nnd screened if possi- 
 ble, so that it will run well. The best time to secure the sand is in the 
 months of August and September. Dry it on a platform of boards in the 
 gun, and store it away in a dry place. It will require about one-third 
 as much bulk of sand as there is of potatoes to be put up. To keep well, 
 the sweet potato needs an even temperature. 
 
 How to Siow Poinioes avd Preserve them from Rot — Dust over the floor 
 of the bin with lime, and put in about six or seven inches deep of potatoes, 
 and dust with lime as before. Put in six or seven inches more of pota- 
 toes, and lime again ; repeating the operation till all are stowed in that 
 way. One bushel of lime will do for forty bushels of potatoes, though 
 more will not hurt them — the lime rather improving the flavor than 
 otherwise. 
 
 Ajiotlier Method. — Fill a basket with potatoes and dip them into a 
 kettle of boiling water, and let them remain two or three minutes. Re- 
 peat the operation till you have thus cured all you want for spring use. 
 The boiling water kills the germ so they will not sprout and become soft. 
 Dry them before packing away. 
 
 Cidtivating Plants when the Dew is On. — The following interesting 
 .nnd practical information is from a correspondent of the Country Gentle- 
 man : 
 
 Fifteen years ago, I noticed a plot of cabbages, the large firm heads of 
 which I could not account for from anything apparent in the soil. Ou 
 asking the owner how he made from such soil so tine and uniform a crop, 
 I found his only secret was that "he hoed them while the dew was on." 
 He thought that in this way he watered them, but of course the good re- 
 sulted more from the ammonia than the moisture of the dew. 
 
 I adopted the practice the following year, and with the result was so 
 well satisfied, that I have since continued and recommended it to others. 
 There will be a very great ditlerence in the growth of two plots of cab- 
 l)«ges, treated in oth-er respects alike, one of which shall be hoed at sun- 
 rise, and the other at mid-day; the growth of the former will surprisingly 
 exceed that of the latter. 
 
 A story in point sometime since went the rounds of the agricultural 
 press of which the substance^ follows: A small plot of ground was divided 
 equally between the hired l-ul of a farmer and his son, the proceeds of its 
 culture to b« their own. They planted it with corn, and a bet was made 
 by them as to which should make the best crop. At harvest the son came 
 out some quarts behind, lie could not understand the reason, as he had 
 hoed his twice a week until laid by, while he had not ?een the hired lad 
 ?r.liivate his })lot at all, and 3*et he had gained the wager. It turned out 
 the winner's crop had been hoed quite as frequently, but before his rival 
 was up in the morning. Providence, it seems, follows the hoe of the early 
 riser, wiUi a special and increased reward. 
 
 But there are exceptions. Cultivating while the dew is on, manifestly 
 benefits such gross feeders as cabbage and corn, but there are plants very 
 impatient of being disturbed while wet. The common garden snap and 
 running beans are exam})les; and if worked while wet, even with dew, 
 the pores of the leaves seem to become stopped, and the whole plant is 
 apt to rust and become greatly injured. Whether the lima beans and 
 other legumas are as impatient of being hoed in the dew, I have not as- 
 certained. Experiments should, however, be tried the coming season on 
 all hoed crops. 
 
 Planting and Chdtivati7ig Sorghum. — In the treatise on "Sorgho" of 
 Isaac A. Hedges — who is said to have been the pioneer and practical 
 
THE housekeeper's guide. 85 
 
 -ixpenmenter with the Chinese sugur-cane in the AVest— ;he st.ntes that 
 sufficient attention has not usually been given to the preparation of the 
 soil and planting of the seed. The soil should be plowed very deep, 
 as the roots sometimes penetrate three feet downward. A free use of 
 lime and wood-ashes is advantageous to the crop. It has been recom- 
 mended to plant the seed in rows running north and south, but as iho 
 westerly winds are most destructive in laying the standing crop, rows 
 running east and west should be made, because they will stand up much 
 better against such gales. The Chinese cane may be transplanted like 
 cabbage plants, and early crops may be raised by starting hot-beds and 
 transplanting in May or June. Or, when the seed is planted in the field, 
 missing hills may be supplied with plants taken from a prepared bed. 
 Every farmer who plants sorghum should pursue this method. If plant- 
 ed in hills, these should be about four feet apart; if in drills, the seeds 
 should be about six inches apart. Careful planting is the first important 
 step to secure an early and a paying crop. 
 
 Upon the subject of treating the seed of the imphee, Leonard Wray, 
 who introduced it from South Africa, says: "I have sometimes soaked 
 it for twenty-four hours in warm water previous to planting, in order 
 to expedite its germination, as seeds so treated will, in warm, moist wea- 
 ther, be up in four days afterward ; whereas, being planted (during 
 showery weather) without this assistance, they usually take six or seven 
 days for sprouting; and if dry weather sets in after planting, it will bo 
 ten or fourteen days before they appear above ground. The practice of 
 soaking I hold to be a good one." An argument in favor of soaking 
 the seed is also advanced by Mr. Hedges; he says: I would especially 
 caution farmers against planting seed without first having tested its ca- 
 pability of germination ; then having satisfied themselves on this point, 
 let care be taken not to plant too thickly." Shallow planting is also 
 recommended. In no case should the seed be set more than an inch in 
 depth, and half an inch is sufiicient. When set deep, the seed is liable 
 to rot should rain occur immediately after planting. In all cases it 
 should be planted in ridges — never in furrows, so that it may receive 
 greater warmth from the sunshine, and not be so liable to be saturated 
 with moisture during wet weather. About from eight to ten seeds are 
 recommended for each hill. 
 
 After the plants of the cane are up, an occasional top-dressing of 
 plaster and lime is suggested by ilr. Hedge=. The best crop of sorghum 
 we ever examined in New York was planted on loam}- soil sloping to 
 the south, and the plants had received a top-dressing of manure from 
 ir.e hen-house. A prize was awarded to this crop by one of the county 
 agricultural societies. The custom of hilling around the rows, as in corn 
 culture, is advantageous; and early cultivation between the rows, to keep 
 down the weeds, is positively necessary to secure a good crop. 
 
 Culiivaivu] Flax. — At a late meeting of the Mun.^ter (Ireland) Flax 
 Improvement Society, a large cultivator of flax stated that the best seed 
 to use was that of liiga, in Russia. Dutch seed was very good, but the 
 American was very inferior, and sold for fifty per cent, less than Iviga. 
 More than one-half of the fiax grown from American seed goes into tow 
 when scutched, while three-fourths of that obtained from Eiga seed wai 
 good long flax. 
 
 Flax-seed for sowing should be of the previous year's growth, and it 
 should be plump, heav}-, glossy, of a uniform size and a clear brown color. 
 All seeds of u light drab color should be rejected. 
 
 Too much pains can not be taken to get seed which is fully matured 
 
86 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 and perfectly ^lean — free from all foul seed — both to secure a goo^ mei 
 charitable crop, and to preserve the land on which it is sown from trouble- 
 some weeds. Farmers often experience great difficulty in procuring such 
 seed, as no ordinary fanning mill will remove some of the worst enemies 
 of the farmer and good flax. It was this fact, more than any other, that 
 led to the system of "loaning seed and contracting the crop," which has 
 been so long pi-acticed in Ohio, Indiana and elsewhere. The linseed-oil 
 manufacturer who receives the crop of a large section of country is ena- 
 bled to select choice lots of seed, and reserve them for sowing, and theii, 
 by machinery too expensive and crumbrous for ordinary use, to clean it 
 so thoroughly that he can gin out each year an almost perfect article of 
 sowing seed. Of the superiority of such seed over what can ordinarily 
 be obtained in the market, and even in seed stores, we are convinced by 
 examining a sample of that seed which E. W. Blatchford, Esq., proprietor 
 of the " Chicago Lead and Oil Works,'' is preparing for his customers for 
 sowing in the coming spring. Of course, when a manufacturer furnishes 
 such seed year after year, requiring for it the return of only an equal 
 amount of merchantable quality, he can not be expected to stipulate a 
 price for the balance of the crop, beyond the ordinary average, taking a 
 series of years into the account; and it is upon this basis that the business 
 has been conducted hitherto, and it is still continued to the acceptance of 
 a majority of the farmers in the largest flax-growing districts. In this 
 connection we would add that, with good seed to sow, there is notliinglike 
 flax as a preparatory crop for wheat. The testimony of Ohio farmers, 
 where flax has been extensively grown for over a quarter of a century, 
 is explicit on this point, and to this fact we would call the especial atten- 
 tion of our Illinois and Wisconsin farmers, whose wheat-growing for some 
 time has been so discouraging. — Chicago Tribune. 
 
 Cultivation of Tobacco. — The following is from the California Farmer 
 by a contributor who has had an experience of several years in the cul- 
 tivation of tobacco: 
 
 " In order to grow strong tobacco plants, the ground must be well pre- 
 pared and worked very tine. In preparing the seed-bed I have found 
 that the best way is to light a large tire on the ground; the soil is thus 
 rendered loose and friable, and is easily reduced very fine. If it is not 
 convenient to make a fire, mix the earth with a large dose of wood-ashes 
 and small charred dust. By this means the ground becomes so loose that, 
 when the plants are ready fur transplanting, a good sprinkling from the 
 garden-pot will make the ground so soft that each plant wall bring with 
 it a small ball of earth, which almost insures the plant's growing, and it 
 must be borne in mind that young tobacco plants require very careful 
 handling. It is better to have a large shallow basket or box to carry the 
 plants in when transplanting, as by this means the plants do not lose the 
 ball of earth or get bruised so much as if taken in the hand. 
 
 "The seed-bed being made fine with the rake, take the seed and mix it 
 well with ten times (by bulk) as much fine earth and ashes. This enables 
 you to sow the seed so thin that in drawing the larger plants you do not 
 disturb the smaller ones. 
 
 "The ground being prepared and the seed well mixed as directed, pro- 
 ceed to sow, taking care to scatter the seed as equally as possible. Do not 
 rake in the seed, but give the bed a slight beating with the back of the 
 spade, and see that the earth does not rise with the spade. Let the seed- 
 bed be in a sheltered situation. When the plants are about the size cab- 
 bage plants usually are at transplanting, operations may commence, mak- 
 ing choice of a cloudy or even a rainy day for the business. The ground 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 87 
 
 for the crop must he well worked and well manured with decayed ma- 
 nure; and it is better to have two shingles or other pieces of timber about 
 six feet high, to stick on end in the ground, meeting over the plant so as 
 to protect it from being scorched with the noon-day sun or nipped with 
 the morning frost. A light, sandy soil suits the tobacco well, if weli 
 worked and manured. In another communication, I will explain the 
 summer culture and gathering." 
 
 An old tobacconist of Sacramento informs the Bee that all the Califor- 
 nia tobacco he has seen has been spoiled in curing. It is cured in houses 
 which are so hot that the leaf is burned and destroyed. The entire sub- 
 stance is taken out of it, and nothing but the coarse vegetable matter 
 left, without any or scarcely any of the qualities of the plant. And this, 
 he says, must ever be the result while the leaf is dried as it has been here. 
 He proposes that it be dried under trees, through whose branches the sun 
 does not penetrate, and through which the air can fi-eely circulate, in order 
 that the leaf may not be bleached of all its properties. 
 
 The best qualities of tobacco are said to be cultivated on new soil, on 
 the southern sides of gently sloping hills. 
 
 Treaiivg and FUivoring Tobacco. — Avery common opinion prevailed for 
 a long period, that tobacco was a tropical plant, and could not be culti- 
 vated in latitudes of moderate temperature. It is a fact, however, tliat 
 it will grow, and may be cultivated, not only in all latitudes where corn 
 or maize comes to maturity, but in regions much further north. Large 
 crops of tobacco are now raised in the valley of the Connecticut, and the 
 leaf of the plant is smooth, and held to be well suited for the wrappers 
 of cigars. It is also cultivated in some portions of Albany and Ontario 
 counties in New York, thus proving that the plant may thrive in our most 
 Northern States. And not only may it be cultivated in such latitudes, 
 but it is well known that, soon after it was introduced from America into 
 England, it was cultivated, for a period, with success in several sections 
 of that country, and also in Ireland. In 1570, it was grown in Yorkshire, 
 to a considerable extent; but its cultivation was prohibited by an act of 
 government, for the purpose of deriving a large revenue from that which 
 was imported. This occurred during the period of the Commonwealth, 
 ii. 1652 ; and since then, not a leaf of tobacco, except as a curiosity, has 
 been grown in England. 
 
 AVe have been told by those who are esteemed connoisseurs of tobacco, 
 that, although this plant grows luxuriantly, when properly treated, in the 
 Northern States, still it is not equal to the qualities which are cultivated 
 in warmer latitudes. This is, perhaps, owing to the mode by which it is 
 treated, after it has matured. In Virginia, the sun-dried tobacco is held 
 to be the best for chewing, but most of it is finally cured by artificial heat. 
 Tobacco, in leaf, is very sensitive to moisture in the atmosphere, because 
 it contains so much potash, common salt, and lime. An analysis of this 
 plant gave — potash, 8.7 percent.; soda. 1.2; lime, 32.2; common salt, 3.8; 
 magnesia, 2.8. In Richmond, which has been the head-quarters of the 
 tobacco business, there are very extensive manufactories, where the leaf 
 is cured, and afterward made into plugs for chewing. Great care and 
 attention are necessary to the proper curing of it ; and if the weather 
 is moist during the operation it is very liable to mildew. In clear, dry 
 weather, it is spread on the tops of sheds, and hung in every situation 
 where it can be exposed to the dry air. The sky is watched with anxiety 
 during such exposure, so that it may not receive a drop of rain. Very 
 frequently it receives its final dryif>g in warm apartments, and in many 
 cases these are heated with open fires, dry corn cobs being about the best 
 
88 TUB HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 
 
 fuel that can be used. Pine and some other woods impart their rofiiioug 
 taste to the tobacco, if the smoke is permitted to permeate through the 
 leaves. 
 
 After tobacco is perfectly cured, it is prepared for pressing. It is now 
 a common practice to flavor it with some mixture of a sweet and Hro- 
 matic character. A common preparation is that of the tonqua bean, which 
 lias a pleasant odor. Vanilla is also used, and different manufacturers 
 have their special mixtures. The loaves are spread out and slightly 
 sprinkled with the aromatic liquid until a sufficient quantity of the moist- 
 ure is absorbed, to render them pliable. They are then rolled into cylin- 
 drical packages, and these are squeezed into fiat plugs in powerful presses. 
 A number of such plugs are subsequently placed together, and subjected 
 to a second pressing operation, by which the plugs are converted into 
 blocks, and thus fitted for transport and market. It was formerly the 
 custom to place the pressed tobacco in a room called the sweat-house, 
 vhere it remained for a considerable pej-iod exposed to a warm atmo- 
 sphere. This treatment made the tobacco sweat; globules of juice &]^- 
 peared upon its surface, and dropped on the floor, and its taste was mucii 
 improved thereby. 
 
 It is also common with some tobacco nianufacturers to sweeten the 
 dark and rank qualities for chewing, by dipping the leaves in bunches 
 into sugar sirup, before pressing them. YVe have only referred to the 
 treatment of chewing tobacco, the superior qualities being used for this 
 purpose. The terms " honey-dew," "sweet leaf," &c., applied to diflerent 
 lots of tobacco, are of the " bunkum" order. 
 
 Melon-ground. — Look well to the linings of beds, and keep up a good 
 heat; as they advance, keep the vines, both of melons and cucuuibois, 
 evenly trained over the surface. Add fresh mold, gradually, as required; 
 remember that melons like a firm (we might ahnost say a hard) bed to 
 grow in ; therefore, the soil in which they grow should be quite firm. 
 Take care, in planting out or earthening-up, not to cover the plants deeply 
 ut the collar, or bury the seed-leaves. 
 
 MaxinLS 07i Onion Culture. — ]^oisture at the base of the bulb for an}' 
 length of time is most injurious to the onion ; on the other hand, a dry 
 heat at the surface is very beneficial, as it is the sun heat alone which ren- 
 ders the Spanish onions so superior to the English in flavor and beauty of 
 the bulbs. The hotter the season or the climate, the sweeter is the flavor 
 of onions ; and the colder the season or the climate, the more pungent. 
 
 The hoe should never be used among onions. It does mischief; and 
 if an onion is once loosened in the soil, it never makes much growth after- 
 ward. tSo, too, the bulbs should never be earthed up; they should stand 
 wholly above ground, and have good depth of soil to root in. 
 
 To Sprout Onio7iii. — Pour hot water on your seed, and let it remain two 
 or three seconds, and they will immediately SiDrout, and come up much 
 earlier. 
 
 Packing Fruits for Long Distances. — A correspondent of the Cottage 
 Gart/t7i describes the following method for packing fresh fruits of various 
 kinds. This system he has practiced with success for twenty years, and 
 he has sent from distances varying from fifty to five hundred miles : 
 
 Take a box, soft paper and sweet bran. A box is chosen in size ac- 
 cording to the quantity to be sent. A layer of bran is put on the bottom, 
 then each bunch of grapes is held by the hand over a sheet of the paper; 
 the four corners of the paper are brought up to the stalk and nicely se- 
 curetl; then laid on its side in the box, and so on until the first layer is 
 finished. Then fill the whole over with bran, and give the box a gentle 
 
THE UOi:SK-K?:KrER S GUIDE. g9 
 
 shake as you proceed. Begin tlie MK'ond layer as the first, and so on utj- 
 lil the box is completed. 'J'hus, with neat hands the bloom is preserved, 
 and may be sent to any distiince; but with clumsy hands, quite the con- 
 trary, and often an entire failure, us the putting and taking out of the 
 box are the most important poinis to bo observed. I have invariablv 
 }>acked sixty to eighty bunches of grapus. and fifty or sixty dozens of 
 j)eaches or apricots in one box, and received letters from persons, who 
 i^aid they had arrived as safe as if they hjjd been taken from the trees 
 that mornincr. 
 
 Saved his Sirawherrles. — An excliange mentions an ingenious method 
 by which a gentleman saved his strav/borries from the daily attacks of 
 an armj^ of robins. He killed a worthless cat, skinned and stuffed her, 
 and having fitted in glaring glass eyes, he mounted her in the center of a 
 fc^trau'berry patch. Although the robins continued to congregate upon 
 the fence and trees near by, and scolded incessantly, none of them ven- 
 tured upon the patch again. Perhaps the sjime scare robin would savo 
 the cherries. It is worth a trial, particularly where cats abound as they 
 do in some premises at night. 
 
 WasJiing S/irep. — Eds. Prairie Farraer : Most of the wool-growers whom 
 I visited in A'erniont are decidedly opposed to washing sheep. They 
 think it often irijure> them, in which opinion I concur, "When we see 
 animals take the care sheo}) do to walk ri)und or jump over the water, and 
 struggle to get out wiicn taken into it as sheep will, I think common 
 sense teaches it is not g(>t)d for them. J am confirmed in this opinion, from 
 the fact that in this climate we liave sudden changes of weatlier, and such 
 chaTiges often occur when we wash sheep, rendering it cold and uncom- 
 fortable for them. Before they are dry, they often take cold and some- 
 times die in consequence I think. 
 
 Another reason for not washing is we can shear earlier, and in cool 
 weather the wool g.'-ows faiter and protects the skin, and we get a better 
 clip than when shearing is delayed for warnt weather before washing. 
 Often when sheep are shorn late in tlic season* the sun is so hot their skin 
 is burnt, and sometimes blisters, and in consequence the w^ool grows very 
 little for weeks. It may not bo injurious as practiced by some in the cen- 
 tial part of the State, viz, : make a dam on the little streams where the 
 water becomes warm in the sun previous to washing. Still I think wash- 
 ing sheep a dirty job we might dispense with, and it would be better for 
 ;)11 concerned, as the manufacturer has the wool to cleanse in any case. 
 ]f all would shear without washing, our wool v/ould, I think, find a mar- 
 ket, and be bought on its merits as it should be, without any particular 
 rule of deduction. — E. E. Gokiiam. 
 
 Tanning Skins with ihe Wool or Hair on. — First wash the skin in strong 
 Boap-suds, to remove the grease and dirt from the wool, then rinse in 
 clean cold water. The skin should now be tacked upon a board (with 
 the flesh side out) and stretched, its edges trimmed, and the whole fleshy 
 jmrt scraped off with a blunt knife. It is now rubbed over hard with as 
 nuich chalk as it will absorb, or until the chalk falls down in powder. 
 Kow take the skin down, till it with finely-ground alum, wrap it closeh' 
 together, and keep it in a dry place for two or three days; at the end 
 of that time, unfold it, shake out the alimi, and it will be ready for use, 
 after being again stretched and di-ied in the air. This method is for 
 white sheep-skins for door-mats. Another mode of treating them con- 
 sists in applying a strong solution of alum, moderately warm, with a 
 sponge, to the fle^^h side of the skiii, wlien it is stretched, then allowing 
 it to dry, before the chalk is rubbed in. It must always be dried ixi tii^ 
 
90 THE HOUSE-KEEPER S GUIDE. 
 
 open air, or it "will turn very hard. Another mode of tanning Fkins 
 with the hair on, after they are stretched on the frame and scraped, is 
 to apply a warm decoction of sumac, prepared by boilinc: one pound of 
 sumac in a gallon of water for about five minutes. The sumitc liquor 
 is applied with a sponge to the whole fleshy surface, then the skin is 
 dried in the open air. Three applications of the sumac are 'given, and 
 when the skin is dried it is laid upon a smooth board or table, and rub- 
 bed down with pumice stone. Both alum and sumac combine with the 
 gelatine of the skin, and ff)rni leather. 
 
 Plant Strawberries. — As it is doubtful whether 1865 will bring a full 
 supply of fruit, it is recommended to plant the small fruits freely, espe- 
 cially the strawberry, that never fail?. The spring is the best time to 
 plant this luxurious and healthful fruit; and March is the month. Soon 
 as the ground can be put in good order, plant Wilson's Albany Seedling 
 or Large Early Scarlet, in rows four feet apart and two feet in the row. 
 The summer cultivation can be cliiefly performed with the cultivator, pro- 
 vided the weeds are not allowed to get the start of 3«ou. It is but a slight 
 job to dress out a considerable patcli ; and if frequently done, but little 
 work with the hoe will be necessary. As to keeping them in hills or let- 
 ting them run at their pleasure, do as you please; though in September 
 or October the growing plants should be cut loose from the parent plant 
 of the Wilson's Seedling, or it may be exhausted and die. But if you 
 desire only a small garden ])atch. you had better plant two feet apart each 
 way, and let but few young plants grow, and such only as nre set the 
 greatest distance from the liill. By this method, of course, hand culture 
 must be relied upon. If your daughters should attend to this as well as 
 other garden work, they will not be injured by the exercise. Let the girls 
 stir tliemselves out-doors, moderately, but regularly every day. Many 
 daughters of the country are l)ecoming namby-pamby, like some of the 
 town — an evil that should be corrected by all parents who understand 
 the relations of out-door air and exercise to health. Those who have but 
 H limited tract of land, will do well to raise from one to ten aci'es of 
 strawberries, according as the market is more or less accessible. All farm- 
 ers should have a family patch, as the cost is little, and the luxury very 
 great. We recommend Wilson's variety, because it has been tested, and 
 is a large bearer, as well as a good berr3^ The Large Early Scarlet is a 
 sweeter berry, the vine a vigorous grower, and can be allowed to run at 
 random. It is preferable as a berry for home use. If you have old patch- 
 es, thin them out thoroughly, and if grass}', turn them under and plant 
 II new patch. If the old patch is not too thick, the only labor required 
 in the spring is to spade under all the grass that may have made a start, 
 and the plants also in places where they are crowded. To get good 
 i^ized berries, the plants must have room. Plants set in March M'ill pro- 
 duce nothing worth while; better pinch off the fruit stems as they ap- 
 pear, and let the plant have all the growth of the first season. The 
 writer of this has grown strawberries for market several seasons. 
 
 Cutt'mg Timber. — The following information about cutting timber has 
 been forwarded to us from a correspondent, who states he found it among 
 the manuscripts of a deceased friend. It appears to be practical, and 
 deserving of general attention : Tradition says that the " old" of the moon 
 in February is the best time to cut timber; but from more than twenty 
 years of observation and actual experience, I am fully convinced that it 
 is about the worst time to cut most, if not all kinds of hard wood, timber. 
 Birch, ash, and most or all kinds of hard wood, will, invariably, pof'der- 
 vost, if out any time in the fall, after the tree is frozen, or before it ia 
 
THE house-keeper's GUIDE. 91 
 
 thoroughly l;aved out in the spring of the year. But if cut after rnc sap 
 in the tree is used up in the growth of the tree, until freezing weather 
 again comes, it will in no instance produce the powder-post worm. When 
 the tree is frozen and cut in this condition, the worm iirst commences its 
 ravages on the inside lilm of the bark, and then penetrates the wood until 
 it destroys the sap part thereof. I have tbund the months of August, 
 September, and October to be the three best in the year to cut hard-wood 
 luiiber. If cut in these months, the timber is harder, more elastic, and 
 durable than if cut in winter months. I have, by weighing timber, found 
 that of equal quality got out for joiners' tools, is much heavier when cut 
 and got out in the above-named months, than in the winter and spring 
 months, and it is not so liable to crack. You may cut a tree in September, 
 and another in the "old" of the moon in February following, and let them 
 remain, and in one ^-ear from the cutting of the first tree you will find it 
 sound and unhurt; while the one last cut is scarcely fit for firewood, from 
 decay. This 1 know by experience. I know of several buildings, the 
 frames of which were cut in ihe "old" of the moon in February, princi- 
 pally of beach timber, now literally eaten up by the powder-post worm; 
 while other timber, cut before the frost came, remains perfectly sound, 
 without the least mark of a worm. Chestnut timber for building will last 
 longest, provided the bark be taken olf. Hemlock and pine ought to bo 
 cut before being hard frozen, although they do not powder-post; yet if 
 they are cut in the middle of winter, or in the spring of the year, and 
 the bark is not taken otf, the grub will immediately commence its ravages 
 between the bark and the wood. 1 have walnut timber on hand which 
 has been cut from one to ten years, with the bark on, which was designed 
 for ax-helves and ox-bows, and not a worm is to be found therein; it was 
 cut between the first of August and the first of November. I have other 
 pieces of the same timber cut in the winter months, not two years old, 
 and they are entirely destroyed, being full of powder-post and grub worms. 
 Within the last ten or twelve years, i have stated the result of my obser- 
 vation on, and experience of, cutting timber in ditferent seasons of ihe 
 year, to many of my neighbors and others; and all who have made the 
 trial are satisfied that the above statement is correct. Others, more in- 
 credulous, follow traditions, it is a fact which is be\'ond contradiction, 
 that when there is the least sap in timber, it is the most durable and solid, 
 and will, when seasoned, be the heaviest. And I am fully persuaded that 
 nine cords of wood cut in those months above named, will go further than 
 ten cut in the winter months. It will burn clearer, the coals will be more 
 solid, and they will retain their heat double the length of time. Who 
 does nut know that wood cut in the winter, and sulfered to remain in the 
 log, or exposed to the weather, is of but little value? especially beach, 
 birch, maple, &c. ; being so far decayed, it rather molders away than bui-n>, 
 umking no coals, and giving little heat. Hoop-poles ought to be cut before 
 frost comes, and they will last three times as long as when cut in^the 
 winter, and will remain free from worms. The late Mr. Leonard Ken- 
 nedy, of Hartford, Conn., stated to me some twelve years since, that ha 
 had' lost more or less walnut timber yearly, which he was in the habit of 
 purcliasing for screws, printing-presses, vices, &c., by its powder-posting, 
 although he had been particular to have it cut, as far as possible, in tlm 
 -' old '■ of the moon in February ; and he inquired of me if I could inform 
 him how to prevent it. I told him to order his timber cut in August and 
 September, instead of February. He afterward told me that the advice 
 was of much value to him, as he had lost none since, if cut in those 
 months; and he thought the screws were better. Many others might be 
 
92 THE UOUSE-KKEFKIl's GUIDE. 
 
 named who have followed the same advice, and none have failed of suo- 
 ••ess. Most, if not all, persons are more or less interested in the above, 
 either in building-timber or mechanical business ; and, on a fair trial, they 
 vviil tind they have not been deceived by me. 
 
 Mnple Sugar. — A correspondent of the Coxirdry Gentleman thus des('ril)e3 
 his method of making maple sugar: The sap, when gathered, should be binU 
 t'd as rapidly as possible; for sometimes a very short time standing will in- 
 jure the quality of the sugar, especially if the weatlier is warm. For the 
 purpose of making a nice article, and for boiling fast, you should sirup 
 down once a day, at least. The sirup should be boiled down so that it will 
 drup from the edge of the dipper in broad drops, like honey; then it is 
 ready to dip out and strain, through a wooden strainer, into a clean bar- 
 rel kept on hand for the purpose. It should then be allowed to stand eight 
 ur ten hours, to settle. For sugaring-off, I use an iron kettle of about 14 
 gallons ; till it about two-thirds full ; stir into it two eggs, well beaten ; put 
 iL over the tire, and when it comes to the boiling point, the scum wdll rise, 
 which should be carefully removed; then dip out until you can't boil it 
 over; and as soon as it gets like soft wax return what you dipped out, in 
 small quantities, until all is returned. Keep a good tire from the start; 
 you can't boil too fast. There is no danger of burning until the water is 
 all gone, then you should take it from the fire. To try it, drop it into 
 water, and if it will snap like rosin, it is done. 
 
 The Potato Rot.- '''homas Carpenter, of Battle Creek, Mich., communi- 
 cates the follosving as his mode of fighting oil' the potato rot: Now I will 
 tell you how I manage, premising that I never yet had potatoes rot in tho 
 grtjund, and that 1 am U3 years old. I plant my potatoes in the latter 
 part of April, or fore-part of May, and in tho old of the moon. When 
 th«y get up six inches high, I plaster and dress them out nicely. Now 
 for the secret. When the sets show for blossoming, then is the time to 
 take two parts piaster, and oiie part tine salt; mix well together, and put 
 one large spoonful of this compound on each hill; drop it as nearly in 
 the center of the hill as pos.-ible. Just as soon as the potatoes are ripe, 
 take them out of tlie ground; have them perfectly dry when put in tho 
 ceihir, and keep them in a dry, cool place. Some farmers let their pota- 
 toes i-emain in the ground, soaking through all the cold fall rains until 
 the snow flies. The potatoes become diseased in this way more and mora 
 every year; hence the' potato rut. With such management they should 
 rut. 
 
 About Roses. — A correspondent of the Qdturist writes to that journal 
 oc.ncerning the care and treatment of roses. As the season of this beauti- 
 ful nympii of Flora is rapidly approaching, our readers will doubtless 
 litid much advantage from perusing this letter, which we here append: 
 ii^vt.M-ybody loves the rose, and almost every one desires to possess infor- 
 Uiatiou that will tend to give the greatest possible effect to this pet of the 
 garden and conservatory. It is not as well known, perhaps, as it might 
 i/e, that to have roses in full perfection of size and color, proper planting 
 and exposure are absolutely essential. The rose requires abundance of 
 I'ir and light, and, to look iheir very best, I think that judicious grouping 
 IS indispensable. I know no way of accomplishing this more etlectually 
 than by pyramidal grouping — that is, forming u rose pyramid, rising, 
 gradually, in highth, froni the minutest dwarf at the base, to the tallest 
 standard at the apex. As the varieties are almost endless, it would ha 
 impossible to enumerate them. Almost every florist's catalogue will sup- 
 ply the list, and the taste of tho operator tlirect the arrangement. A 
 proper discrimination slunild, of course, be manifested iu regard to tho 
 
THE IIOLSK-KKEPEK S GUIDE. 93 
 
 time and continuance of blooming, so as to secure the finest possible 
 effect. I once re^d of a very simple method of imparting a stronger 
 and more agreeable odor to the rose. It is done by planting one or 
 two large onions close to the root. It is said that water distilled from 
 roses grown, under such circumstances, is decidedly superior to that 
 prepared from ordinary rose-leaves. It is a French idea, and, as it will 
 cost little to try it, perhaps some persons may feel disposed to experiment 
 on it. 
 
 Charcoal for Turkeys. — A correspondent of the German ioioi (Pa.) 
 Telegraph states that he has made successful experiments in feeding tur- 
 keys with charcoal. He look eight of tlieso fowls, and put four in each 
 of two separate pens, and fed them alike with meal, boiled potatoes and 
 oats, with the exception that one set had a pint of pulverized charcoal 
 daily, while the others had none. They wore killed on the same day, 
 when it was found that those which received the charcoal averaged each 
 one and a half pounds more than the others, and their flesh was more 
 tender and pleasant. 
 
 Feeding Oats to Horses. — A correspondent of the Rural Hegisier gives 
 his experience as follows, on feeding horses. He says : 
 
 The same quantity of oats given to a horse produces different effects 
 according to the time they are administered. There is, decidedly, a great 
 advantage in giving horses water before corn, and an injury in giving 
 water after corn. There is a bad habit prevalent, namely, that of giving 
 corn and hay on their return to the stable after hard work. Being very 
 liungry, they devour it eagerl}^ and do not masticate; the consequence is, 
 it is not so well digested. When a horse returns from work perspiring 
 and out of breath, he should be allowed to rest for a time, then give a 
 little hay, a half an hour afterward water, then oats. By this plan, water 
 may be given without risk of cold. This correspondent states that he has 
 made many experiments with his own horses, and the foregoing are con- 
 clusions based on his experience. 
 
 Blanketing Horses. — Most persons who have the care of horses in win- 
 ter, make a serious mistake in throwing a blanket on the animal as soon 
 as he is stopped after becoming heated by hard labor or long traveling. 
 The vapor that steams up from the hot sides of the horse condenses and 
 wets the blanket, and as he continues to cool, the cold and wet covering 
 chills, instead of warming him. The better plan is to allow the horse to 
 stand uncovered until cooled down to about the ordinary temperature, 
 which, of course, will depend on and must be regulated by circumstances, 
 and then throw on a dry blanket. 
 
 Let Animals have Daily Exercise. — Horses require daily exercise in the 
 open air, and can no more be expected to exist without it than their 
 owners. Exercise is an essential feature in stable management, and, like 
 well-opportuned food, tends alike to preserve the health of horses. Daily 
 exercise is necessary for all horses unless they are sick; it assists and pro- 
 motes a free circulation of the blood, determines morbific matter to the 
 surface, developes the muscular stricture, creates an appetite, improves 
 the wind, and finally invigorates the whole system. We can not expect 
 much of a horse that has not been habituated to suflScient daily exercise; 
 while such as have been daily exercised and well managed, are capable, 
 nA only of great exertion and fatigue, but are ready and willing to do 
 )ur bidding at any season. When an animal is overworked, it renders 
 the system very susceptible to whatever morbid influences may be present, 
 and imparts to the disease they may labor under, an unusual degree of 
 severity. The exhaustion produced by want of rest is equally dangerous; 
 
94 THE house-keeper's guide. 
 
 euch horses are always among tlie first victims of diaeasos, and when at- 
 tacked their treatment is embarassing and unsatisfactory. 
 
 Salt for Animals. — Animals that are permitted to roam in the salt 
 marshes are generally the most healthy, as they consume a large amount 
 of saline material. The antiseptic property of salt is too well known 
 and appreciated by most husbandmen, and the farmer might as well 
 think of entirely dispensing with food as to fail in seasoning food with 
 Bait. No animal can long exist without salt; in the stomach it operates 
 favorably, and has a healthy action on the liver. It also prevents the 
 food from running into fermentation, and is death on intestinal parasites. 
 
 Chloride of Lime as an Insecticide. — In scattering chloride of lime on a 
 plank in a stable, all kinds of flics, but more especially biting flies, were 
 quickly got rid of. Sprinkling beds of vegetables with even a weak solu- 
 tion of this- salt, effectually preserves thexii from caterpillars, butterflies, 
 mordella, slugs, &c. It has the same eflect when sprinkled on the foliage 
 of fruit-trees. A paste of one part of powdered chloride of lime, and one- 
 half part of some fatty matter, placed in a narrow band round the trunk 
 of the tree, prevents insects from creeping up it. It has ever been 
 noticed that rats and mice quit places in which a certain quantity of 
 chloride of lime has been spread. This salt, dried and finely powdered, 
 can, no doubt, be employed for the same purposes as flour of sulphur, and 
 be spread by the same means. 
 
 To Prevent Fence-posts from Decaying. — Char about two feet of the ends 
 which you put in the ground, by burning them, and they will last ten 
 times as long. 
 
 Hot-Houses. — Use blue glass for hot-houses, and your seeds will germi- 
 nate much sooner, and plants will thrive much better. 
 
 To Protect Animals fro^n Flies and Insects. — Walnut leaves, four ounces ; 
 lobelia leaves, four ounces; boiling water, one gallon. Let the mixture stand 
 until it cools; then press the fluid through a cotton cloth, and add four 
 ounces of the tincture of aloes. Apply a small quantity of this compound, 
 daily, to the surface of the body, by means of a sponge, and the flies will 
 not trouble them. 
 
 To Make Hens Lay in Winter. — Raise a sufficient quantity of sunflowers 
 for the hens to feed upon the seeds all the winter, and you will have 
 plenty of eggs. The best way to raise them is to plant with potatoes; 
 then you can also plant butter or iima-beans, which will run up the stalks, 
 and save the expense of polling. The sunflowers will shade the potatoes, 
 and make them grow better and be much sweeter, so that three crops can 
 be laised off" one piece of ground. Cut your sunflowers up, when ripe, at 
 the bottom of the stalk, and set them up on the ends, with their heads 
 close together near your fowl-yard, where the hens can run under between 
 the stalks, and pick up the seeds as they fall down. 
 
 Good Hop Yeast. — Boil a handful of hops in 1 quart of water 10 or 15 
 minutes; strain the water, while hot, on a tea-cupl'ul of flour in a vessel 
 large enough to hold both, and let it stand till cool; then put in about a 
 gill of good, lively yeast (or its equivalent in cake yeast), with a little 
 salt, and let it stand till it rises, when it is ready for use. If kept in a 
 cool place in winter, it will remain sweet a week or ten days; in warm 
 weather, mix with corn-meal into cakes and dry in the open air. In 
 making- bread, use a tea-cupful to two quarts of flour; mix with warm 
 water, rise an hour or more in a warm place, and bake till well done. 
 On page 2(3 it says use a half a cup molasses; suit vour own taste about 
 this. 
 
 ^^X 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 3 to 6- -Soap and "Washing Eeceipts. 
 
 6 — Inks, Cements, and Liquid Solders. 
 
 7 — Small Beers and other Beverages. 
 
 8 to 11 — Domestic Wines, Cider, Cordials, &c 
 
 12 — Liquors, Vinegar, <fec. 
 
 13 & 14 — Dyeing Keceii)ts. 
 
 15 — Hair Dyes and Restoratives; Cosmetics. 
 
 16 — Chafed Skin; W^hitening the Skin; Chapped Hands; Bunions, 
 
 Corns, Warts, and Chilblains; To Destroy Flies; Wash for 
 Fruit-Trees , Curculio in Fruit-Trees. 
 
 17 & 18 — Eemoving Stains, Grease spots, &c. 
 
 19 — " Paint, Ink-stains, and Mildew ; To Keep Silk ; Wooi- 
 
 en Cloths; Foul Air in Wells; Disinfectants. 
 
 20 — Barometer; To Harden Lard and Tallow-Candles; Fracture in 
 
 Glass Chimneys; Preservation of the Teeth ; Yeast; Preser- 
 vation of Pictures. 
 
 21 — Eancid Butter; To Preserve Milk; Brilliant Whitewash; Zinc 
 
 Wash for Rooms ; Preserving Butter. 
 
 22 — To Make Butter Yellow ; Water-proof Oil-Blacking; Polish for 
 
 Old Furniture ; To Prevent Flies from Injuring Picture- 
 frames, Looking-glasses, &c. ; To Clean Silver and Britannia; 
 Fire-proof and Water-proof Cloth. 
 
 23 & 24— To Soften Hard Water; Fleas on Dogs; To Brighten Brass; 
 
 To Keep Metals from Rusting; To Brown Gun-Barrels; Skip- 
 pers in Ham; To Prevent Frost in Gardens, &c. ; Substitute 
 for Coffee; To Exterminate Rats, Roaches, &c. 
 25 — To Preserve Eggs; How to Catch Fish and Wild-Fowls; Seal- 
 
 ing-wax for Bottles ; Substitute for a Carpet. 
 
 CULINARY DEPARTMENT. 
 
 26 — Wheat Bread; Rye and Indian Bread; Biscuits, Rolls, &c 
 
 27 & 28— Baked and Boiled Puddings. 
 
 29 & 30 — Pudding Sauces ; Pies and Pastry. 
 
 31 to 36 — Custards, Cakes, &c. 
 
 36 to 39— Meats, Fish, Oysters, &c. 
 
 39 to 45 — Preserves, Pickles, Jellies, Jams, &c. 
 
 45 — Hints to House-keepers. 
 
 MEDICAL DEPARTMENT. 
 
 46 —Cough Syrup; Fever and Ague Cure; Remedy for Dyspepsia 
 
 and Liver Complaint. 
 
 95 
 
96 COKTKNTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 47 —Tonic Bitters; Alterative Sirup for Scrofula, &c. ; Ilheumatic 
 
 Drops, or No. 6 ; Composition Powders ; Liniment for Cuts, 
 Bruises, &c. 
 
 48 — Diarrhea Cordial and Cholera Sirup; Diphtheria. 
 
 49 — Cure for Hydrophobia; Important Medical Discavery. 
 
 50 — Cure for Sniali-pox ; To Prevent its Defacing Marks. 
 50 to 52 — Kules for the Preservation of the Health. 
 
 52 — Water-cure; Hints on Pure Air, Sunlight, &c. 
 
 52 to 55 — Food and Drink for the Sick; "Why Children Die; Causes of 
 
 Dyspepsia. 
 55 —Poisons and their Antidotes. 
 
 66 to 60 — Vegetable Materia Mediea, giving the Medical Properties of alt 
 
 common Herbs and Plants. 
 
 MECHANICS' DEPAETMENT. 
 
 61 — Painting Glass Transparencies; Varnish for "Wood Pntterns; 
 
 Etching Varnish; Flexible Varnish. 
 
 62 — Varnish for Iron Work and Japan. 
 
 G2 & 63 — Transparent Painting on Linen ; Prints on Glass, Wood, &c. 
 6-4 — Colors for Stamping Muslin ; Collodion Formulae. 
 
 65 — Dammara Varnish ; Alloy for Journal Boxes ; Babbit Metal 
 
 Fine Polishing Powder; Consolidating Cast-steel. 
 
 66 — Harmless Green-color for Confectionery; Furniture Paste ; 
 
 Cleaning Brass, Tin-ware, &c. ; Black on Gun-Barrels 
 07 — Aluminum Bronze; Bronzing Metals. 
 
 68 — Dull Black on Brass; Staining Marble; Hardening Wood for 
 
 Pulleys; Case-hardening Iron. 
 C9 & 70 — Enameling Vessels ; Silvering by Tin ; WeHding Cast-steel ; 
 
 Gilding Steel; To Silver Brass ; Tinning Iron. 
 
 71 — Coloring Gold; Kid and Glazed Leather; Tanning Nets, Sails, 
 
 and Cordage. 
 
 72 — Preserving Wood; Cement for Steam-Boilers ; Marine Glue; 
 
 Cement for Leather Belts ; Cement for Petroleum Stills. 
 
 73 —Attaching Ornaments to Wood; Kubber Cement; Blacking for 
 
 Harness, Leather, &c. ; Cement for Brick AValls ; To Gild 
 Iron and Steel with Gold; To Silver Iron and other Metals; 
 To Stain Wood various Colors. 
 
 74 — Staining Wood; Solders; Starting Fires under Boilers. 
 
 75 & 76 — New Chrome Green ; Preventive of Decay in Timber. 
 77 & 78 — Testing Gilded Articles; Gold and Silver. 
 
 79 & 80 — Destructive Effects of Iron Bust; To Put a Paper "Positive" 
 into a Looking-glass ; Water-glass in Soap. 
 
 FARMERS' DEPARTMENT. 
 
 •1 to 94 — Containing many Valuable Hints upon nearly all matters per- 
 taining to Husbandry, the Management of Stock, &c. 
 
HOUSi-KiEPlR'S GUIDE 
 
 AND EVERYBODY'S 
 
 H^JNTD-BOOK: 
 
 CONTAINING OVER 
 
 FI"V^E HCXJnsriDI^EID 
 
 NEW AND VALUABLE 
 
 ox TFIE MANUFACTURE' OF FAMILY AND TOILET SOAPS, WASHING FLUIDS, 
 CEMENTS, LIQUID SOLDERS FOR MENDING TIN, IRON, AND STEEL, INKS, 
 DYES, DOMESTIC MEDICINES, WINES, CIDER, CORDIALS, VINEGAR, 
 PICKLES, PRESERVES, JELLIES, AND JAMS; ON THE ART OF 
 COOKING, AND ALMOST EVKRY ART PERTAINING TO HOUSK- 
 KEEPINQ AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY ; TOGETHER WITH 
 DEPARTMENTS DESIGNED ESPECIALLY FOR FARM- 
 ERS AND MECHANICS, GIVING VALUABLE 
 INFORMATION UPON VARIOUS TOPICS 
 CONNECTED WITH THEIR RESPEC- 
 TIVE VOCATIONS. 
 
 BY SMITH & SWINNEY, 
 
 CHE M: 1ST©, Etc. 
 
 CINCINNATI, OHIO: 
 
 TENTH EDITTON-PIFTY-FIFTH THOUSAND. 
 
 1871. 
 Price, per copy, Fifity Cents. 
 
 Stcreotjp«d at Ute rraokHn Tj^ Tcanijy, On. O. 
 
RECEIPTS WOUTIT more than the price of the book to EVEBl 
 HOUSEWIFE IN TUE COUNTRY. 
 
 Eoui to make tomato preserves better than peach or any other fruit preteives extant. Try tt and 
 fee. Take the small, round variety of tomato (either red or yellow, and from three-fourths 
 to one inch in diameter), and wash them clean in cold water, talrijjg care to not break the 
 skin; to every ten pounds of tomatoes take ten pounds of good, clarified sugar ; make 
 your sugar into a sirup, by the addition of a little water, and gently boiling till the sugar 
 is all desolved, then pour over the tomatoes and let them stand over night ; next day put 
 them carefully Into your preserving kettle, and gently boil them over a slow fire for sev- 
 eral hours, or till the juice has formed a thick, rich sirup, which can be ascertained by 
 cooling in a saucer. When about half done, add two ordinary sized lemons, sliced fine, 
 and nearly or quite half an ounce of good white ginger root, bruised or cut up fine, and 
 also one-fourth of a pound of good plump raisins, and boil till done. Some receipts nay 
 scald and peel the tomatoes, and boil twenty nnnutes, etc. Pay no attention to such 
 instructions, but make according to the abov rections, and you will have a preserve 
 more delicious to the taste than the best peach imson will make. We have preserves 
 
 in the house made according to this receipt, ^ tomatoes costing 25 ctsapeck), and 
 peach preserves made from the best flavored peaches (costing $5 per bushel) as well as 
 those made from the jiamson plum, and all, without exception, pronounce the tomatoes the 
 best. If every housewife knew how cheaply and easily she could make up a batch of these 
 preserves, preferable to any fruit preserves, she would never be without them. 
 
 A nice ivav io preserve peaches, plums, &c. — Peaches: Take tlie white cling vaiiety and pare 
 them; to each pound, after pared, take one-half pound of ^vhite sut;ar, and add just "enough 
 water to dissolve it by heating; when the sirup comes to a boil, add the peaches and boil an 
 hour or so, or till the sirup becomes quite thick, or about tin- same as thin, strained honey. 
 Now have your jars ready (glass ones are better), and till iiy while In.'t, and seal, tlie same 
 as other canned fruit. This pla-.i saves one-third of the sugar, in-evcnts the lia.liility oi 
 molding or souring, and renders the fruit far more palatalili'. as it re<jujres only about ono- 
 lialf the cooking, and consequently has not t!ie stron-." teo-iieii li:i\or ..f pn serves put up 
 in the old way ; besides, th- fi nit i-eniains whole, and ! he sirup v-i i 1 lie a- while and clear 
 as new straineil honey, and far more delicious . Tru it und xi"'. I'lunis noi\ In- put up in 
 the sauie way, except they may require a little more sugar and less coekii.,-. 
 
 To can fruit and preserve the orvjlnal flacor without llie linhiUdi nj .</.e///;;,/.— I\:ie)j ■■, : 
 Take • good, juicy freestones, neither too hard nor too soft, fiare aioi liuartei' them ; 
 put them iuto a vessel, and to each peck (before pared) sprinkle in layers as yon 
 pare them, one pound of white sugar and let them stand an hour or more to make « 
 sirup, after which turn off the juice into your kettle, and when it is hot, put in the peuhes 
 (veithout a drop of water, unless the peaches be very dry;, and boil till the peaches 
 are hot and well scalded all through, but no longer, as too much cooking destroys their 
 fresh flavor. Have your cans or jars ready, and while your fruit is still over the stove, 
 fill up as soon as possible and seallhem up as fast as you fill them, taking care to have the 
 caus fulU and the s^rup over the top of the fruit so that none of the pieces will uroject 
 above. Out piecesof white paper, just fitting the insitle of the caps, and paste two of 
 them together with the white of an egg. and also wc-r the under surface with the egg, and 
 put tliese on first, then the caps, after which \\ipe the mouths of the i.ns or cans dry, 
 and turn the cement. over boiling ho!. The pap.er in-ev ->,t~ i h-e rin.caps troni rustiHL!, and 
 the et'g and paper toeether will keep the fruit :iir-iiLlit, in, ease ihe eenieut oiacl^s or 
 ^leaves from the jar. All kinds of small fruit— Maekh-iries, ra>plKM-ries, strawberries, 
 ete.— are put up liyhpatioij in the same way ; also lomato-s, but these must be scalded. 
 peeled, and thoroughly cooked, with enouuh pepper and s.alt to season. Tin cans are unlit 
 for acid fruit or tomatoes, as the acid will iti--e;x.. <he i, ,1 inside the eans, which will 
 impregnate the fruit with a mineral poison. 
 
 Further Suggestions about (J«««/i?:7.-- \s somi ,, dinu'. it shrinks. 
 
 leaving a vacuum at the top. In cimseiiuenee e u-, and evi.)eeiall,\- 
 
 if dry on top, will mold, causing coasidei-ahle \-:,~;e, -iiMlinait. Toprevenr, • 
 
 this, leave a space of half an imdi. after Ihor-uuiilN lars to sefile the tniit, 
 
 cut a piece of writing paper, just littiug the in-ide, - liuit, then fill u]' with 
 
 a thick sirup, boiling hoi;, made of white sugar. Tl... ,..., . . , imp, cap.s, and wax must 
 be ready for use as soon as the fruit is in. 
 
 How to Cooh Tomatoes. — Put your tomatoes into boiling water and scald till the skin 
 begins to shrink or shrivel ; take them out, and, when cool, (if you are in a hurry, put 
 them into cold water), peel off the skin and cut out the core at the but-end, where the 
 stem joins, as it will neither cook soft nor digest when taken iuto the stomach. Having 
 well dressed them, put thorn back into your pot or stew-pan, and cook for half or three 
 quarters of an hour, or till they have pretty well stewed down. Do not add any water, aa 
 their own water will be snflacieut. Season with butter, salt, pepper, and a little sugar, 
 just enough to take off the rank^acid taste, but not so as to make them in the least degree 
 sweet, aa this destroys entirely the flavor peculiar to them. Some prefer the addition of 
 a little bread, finely crumbed, just before they are done. Suit your own taste in this 
 respect. 
 
 A nice way to cook green com. — Take a sharp knife and cut down the outside of the 
 kernels all around as thin as you can cut them, then cut down the second time in the 
 same way; now turn the knife and scrape all off the cob as clean as you can, and put the 
 corn into a skillet, with a little water, and cook till thoroughly done. Season with butter, 
 pepper and salt, and you will haTe the most delicious dish you ever tasted in the way; of 
 gr»en corn. . ^ 
 
 These receipts are entirely original, as now published, ana are worth more than tno 
 price of the book to erery house-keeper in the United States, " no matter," as the Spring 
 Held UepublioaH says, " how many receipt or cook-booke you may hare.'' 
 
THE housekeeper's GUIDE. 
 
 Tea.— All varieties of green tea are positively injurious, even to a healthy stomach, and 
 especially so to a delicate one. This is owing to the manner in which the tea is cured, on 
 coppei- plates, which communicate to it a metallid poison (sulphate of copper) highly 
 injurious to the nerves and coatin^rs of the stomach. Black tea, which is not cured in 
 this way, is much healthier, but it has an herb-like taste, which renders it unpalatable to 
 many. The best Japiuiese tea is free from "both these objections, far more delicious than 
 the best green tea, and, therefore, the most desirable. Try it lor a few weeks, and you 
 will not go back to green tea. A teaspoouful is sufficient for one person. Pour on boiling 
 water, and steep ten or fifteen minutes. 
 
 All intelligent physicians are well aware of! the deleterious effects of green tea, and hence 
 they will generally prescribe black tea for their patients while sick. They do no.t inform 
 them, however, that it is mcessary to abst lin from green ti-a while well, that they mav keep 
 80. The introduction into this country of the Japan tea is of comp:iratively recent origin, 
 and hence its demand is limited to those who have bien made acquainted with its supeii- 
 ority over all other brands. If your grocer does not keep it (or if he keeps an jaiferioi 
 article), you will be able to procure an excellent autiliiy at nearly all the large tea stores 
 at $1.2.') to $1.50 per pound. 
 
 Co.f ee.—^ot one person in ten understands the process of making good coffee upon scien- 
 tific principles. Coffee, well made, is a delicious beverage, and is entirely harmless to a 
 healthy person when used with moderation. It contains little or no' nourishment; but 
 Pi'Of LiKBiG claims that it possesses the property of preventing a too rapid waste of the 
 system, so that it indirectly imparts' strength and tone which would not othewise be 
 obtained with the same amount of aliment. This piin':iple, however, is almost wholly 
 destroyed by too much roasting, and enlirdu evaporated hi/ loo much boiling, so that it not 
 only loses this property, for wiiich it is chiefly valuable, but also its aromatic flavor, which 
 alone renders it palatable. Therefore, hvo^vn your coff'-e in a moderately-heated OA'en, 
 instead.oi" burning it up, as the most ot cooks do. It must be well done, however, so that 
 it will grind fine and with tolerable ease by rapidly turning the crank of the mill. If it 
 grinds tough, so as to obstruct the ste;idy motion of the crank, it is a sign that it is not 
 weU done, in which case it will have a raw, unpleasant taste. 
 
 The best -way to roast coffee is to put a thin layer in your dripping-pan, and gradually 
 heat, in a moderate oven, stirring occasionally, till of a dark brown or chestnut color. 
 Cool a grain and break it open by a blow, and if brittle and of the same color inside, it is 
 done. Never buy coffee ground, noi'even browni d, as it soon loses its strength ; besides, 
 you are more likely to get an inferior article, badly burned. 
 
 Coffee, as a general rule, should be drank for breakfast only ; certainly never at supper, 
 unless a person is going to be up and employed late at night, as it tends to make a person 
 wakeful, and conseciuently to prevent sound and refreshing sleep. Pecsons of the nervous 
 temperament and in delicate health will feel its efiVcts in this respect more sensibly than 
 those of a more sluggish and lymphatic nature, although its long-continued use, three 
 times a day, will have its deleterious effects upon all cunstitutions, however robust. If 
 used immoderately and too strong, it has a bilious tendency, and also tends to thicken the 
 blood and to render the circulatiun thereof sluggish and languid. It also injures the deli- 
 cate coatings and nerves of the stomach, and consequently impairs the digestive organs. 
 It is in consequence of these latter effects that its immoderate use often produces severe 
 headache. The stomach and brain arc so intimately connected, through the nervous sys- 
 tem, that whatever affects the former sympathetically affects the latter. 
 
 No person should drink more than one and a half cups of coffee at a meal, while the 
 most of persons will find it to their advantage to restrict themselves to one large coffee- 
 cupful. In many diseases, especially where the patient is of the nervous temperament, its 
 use for the time being should be entirely abstained from. 
 
 Directions for' MaTiing,—¥ov e&c\\ adult person, take one heaping table-spoonful (more or 
 less, according to taste) of fresh, finely-ground coffee, and put in a bowl and stir in a 
 small quantity of the white of an egg (a teaspoonful, with a little water, will do for two 
 nm-sons) and mix into a paste; now put it into your coffee-pot or boiler and pour on warm 
 water and gradually bring to a boil. As soon as it boils up and breaks, stir it down, 
 add a few drops of cold water, and set it on the back part of the stove, where it will 
 steep five or ten minutes longer, but not where it will boil again. Never, under any 
 circumstances, boil longer than a few seconds, for the reasons above stated. When 
 all are served, a little hot water added to the grounds and steeped (not boiled) ten or 
 fifteen minutes, will extract all the strength therefrom. This may be turned into a 
 cup to settle, and the clear liquid added to the coffee the next morning without any detri- 
 ment to it. Coffee thus made, from the best Mocha and .Java brands, will be as clear as 
 amber, and served with a plenty of good cream and clarified sugar, will be fiir more deli- 
 cious than nine-tenths of the oldest coffee-drinke's ever dreamed of. If you have been 
 accustomed to boiling your coffee from fifteen to thirty minutes, as the most of people'do, 
 try this plan and you will be convinced of its superiority. 
 
 Raw or brown sugar should never be used in tea or coffee, from the fact that it tends to 
 produce acidity of the stomach, besides being full of anitualculaj, which are entirely 
 destroyed while undergoing the refining process. Its use in tea and coffee is no economy, 
 as it is so much damper and more compact that the same bulk will weigh from one-fourth 
 to one-third more than light, clarified sugar. 
 
 C7tocoi!a<e,— This is an excellent beverage, perfectly harmless and highly uiitritious, fur- 
 nishing, in a measure, both food and drink. It should be used for supper, instead of tea or 
 coffee, as it is sedative in its effects, and tends to allay nervous excitement and induce 
 sleep, while the latter two are stimulants, and tend to exhilarate the brain and nervous 
 system to a point beyond their normal conaition. It, therefore, is the most suitable drink 
 to retire on. A cup of good chocolate, accompanied with a light supper, composed of good 
 light bread and fruit (or any other light, wholesome diet), partaken of two or three hours 
 before bedtime, will not be likely to disturb your slumbers or induce nightmare. 
 
 The French chocolate is the best, but its high price will put it beyond the reach of 
 many. Baker's No. 1 is very good, and will answer every purpose. 
 
Prom Mrs. Cjov. Dennison, and Mrs. Gov. Brough, of Ohio. 
 
 Having examined "The Housekeeper's Guide and Everybody's Hand- 
 book," and also having tested some of the most important recipes, I 
 can cheerfully add my name to the long list of those who have indorsed 
 the work and commended it to the public. I believe that any person who 
 buys this book and makes a proper use of the information which it con- 
 tains, will be benefited to an extent far beyond the consideration 
 required for its purchase; and when the fact of its being sold by 
 disabled soldiers, who have been maimed for life in defense of our coun- 
 try's liberties, is taken into consideration, no true and loyal woman 
 should hesitate to purchase a copy. 
 
 It is indorsed by three of our principal Druggists whose judgment and 
 knowledge of what they speak can be depended upon. 
 
 Columbus, Ohio, Sept. 21, 1864. MRS. WM. DENNISOi^. 
 
 Having examined the book, I can subscribe to the above. 
 
 Cleveland, Ohio, Feb. 27, 1865. MRS. JOHN BROUGH. 
 
 RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE PRESS, PHYSICIANS AND DRUaGISTS, 
 
 We, the undersigned. Druggists in the city of Columbus, and the State 
 of Ohio, having examined "The Housekeeper's Guide and EverY' 
 body's Hand-Book," do hereby certify that it contains many truly valu- 
 able Recipes, of great practical utility to all housekeepers and heads oi 
 families. 
 
 Many a single Recipe is worth the consideration demanded for all, as 
 it might be the means of saving it many times every year to its posses- 
 sor. The Soap washes excellently and, at the present high price of tho 
 article, the possession of this Recipe alone ought to be a sufficient induce- 
 ment for every familv to purchase a copy of the book. 
 
 G. ROBERTS, R. JONES & SOW, 
 
 N. P. MARPLE, A. RITSON. 
 
 From Prof. A. Our Us, A. M., M. />., Professor of the Cincinnati Literary <md 
 
 Scientific Institute, and Professor of the Theory and Practice of Medicine ana 
 
 Surgery. 
 
 Although I have not examined the book sufficiently to decide upon the 
 merits of all the recipes, I have made myself acquainted witl) enough ta 
 satisfy me that it is worth many times the price demanded for it. The 
 vegetable Materia Medica, giving the medicinal properties of the most 
 common herbs and plants will be found of great value ; while the remarks 
 on the preservation of health and the hygienic treatment of the sick, are 
 alone worth many times the price of the book, and I would that they were 
 treasured and heeded by every family in the land. A CURTIS, M.D, 
 
 Having examined the book, I can indorse the above. 
 
 H. H. HILL, M. D , Druggist, 
 Corner Fifth and Race Sts , Cincinnati, Ohio 
 
 We have examined the " HousEKEEi-ER's Guide AnD Everybody f* 
 Hand-Book," and can safely say, that it is all that its authors claim 
 We believe that it contains more valuable information and a larger num- 
 ber of practical recipes of real utility than any similar work extant. 
 We are acquainted with some of the articles manufactured by the authors, 
 for which Recipes are herein given, and know that any one of them is 
 worth the price of the book ; besides, it is indorsed by a reliable medical 
 authority and, two of our principal drug firms in this city. — Cincinnati 
 Daily Gazette. 
 
 It is neatly printed, well recommended, and is undoubtedly a good 
 thing. — Christian Advocate. 
 
 It is just what its name purports, the " Housekeeper's Guide and a 
 Hand-Book for Everybody." — Cincinnati Commercial. 
 
 Many a single recipe, if printed on a strip of paper no larger than 
 the hand, would be worth the price of the hoo^.— Louisville Journal 
 
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