TT 5^ Class J7I5^ Book — z4iiLS_ Copyright N" COPyRIGHT DEPOSIT Drafting Pants and Overalls By HARRY SIMONS Technical Editor of "The Clothing Designer and Manufacturer," and "The Tailor Mechanic," and author of "The Science of Grading," and "Designing Overcoats." PUBLISHED BY THE CLOTHING DESIGNER CO. 70 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK (Copynght luiie, 1915) ^^^e^-i Shop Efficiency Achieved Use "IDEAL" PATTERN RACKS $1.00 Each $10.00 Per Dozen File }'our patterns away neatly, com- pactly, and orderly. Sticking them on nails in the wall, or letting them lie aroun^ inches C to F is the inseam or 32 inches. E is half way between C and F. D is 2 inches from E. Square out from points ACDF. C to G is ^ of seat. G to H is >^ inch. Square up from H to L. G to I is >^ of seat. I to J is Yz inch. I to K is 5^ inch. M is half way between I and C. Square up from M to N. .Square down from M to O. H to P is >i of seat. Square out from P to B. Draw line P-I. to R is >4 incli. Draw hne M-R-S. • R to T and R to U are ^4 of knee (20 inches). S to W is ]A, of bottom (15^^ inches). Draw lines K-T-V and C-U-W, whicli completes all the construction lines for the forepart. The construction lines in this diagram are for the conservative styles of trousers. FOREPART Conservative Trousers This diagram is for medium priced clothing. The style is conservative, it being neither Peg nor English. MEASUREMENTS W'aist 34 inches. .Seat 40 inches. Knee 20 inches. Bottom 15j,4 inches. Rise 9}^ inches. Inseam 32 inches. DRAFT Draw line ARCDE A to C is 9j^ inches (the rise). C to E is the inseam (32 inches). C to D is the knee, i/^ of the inseam less 2 inches, which in tliis case is 14 inches. Square out from points ACDE. C to F is i^ of the seat. F to G is J.4 inch. -Square up from G to H. F to I is J/^ of seat. 1 to J is Yi inch. I to K is 1/2 inch t is half way between I and C. Square up from L to M and down from L to X. G to R is l^ of seat. FOREPART L H H i , G i± Diagram III. Square out from R to B. Draw line R-I. Dray line S, which is % inch below R-I. M to H and M to Y are J4 of waist each. Shape the front of trousers H-J. C to X is 34 inch. O to T and O to U are % of knee each. N to O is >^ inch. Draw line L-O-P. P to y and P to W are j4 of bottom each. Draw the outside seam Y-X-U-W and the inside scam J-T-V. Draw line V-W, which completes the forepart. Diagram IV, REGULAR PANTS Diagram V. REGULAR PANTS DRAFT ( Complete ) This draft is a continuation of diagram 2, showing the complete draft of forepart and back. MEASUREMENTS Waisf 34. Seat 40. Knee 20. Bottom I5y2. Rise 914. Inseam 32. DRAFT The forepart is drafted the same as explained in diagram 2. BACK 1 to 4 is 1/12 of seat. 4 to 5 is 5^ inch. Square down from 5 to 6. 5 to 6 is 5^ inch. 2 is half way between J and M. Draw line 3-R-2-7. 2 to 7 is 2J/2 inches. Shape the seat 7-2-1-6. B to 9 is 1^ inches. S to J and 7 to 8 are J^ of waist plus 2}i inches, 19>4 inches in this case. 11 to U is J/^ inch. W to 13 is y2 inch. Draw line 8-9-11-13. T to 10 is ^ inch. V to 12 is ^ inch. Draw the inseam 6-10-12, which completes the draft. REGULAR PAN IS DIAGRAM V. 10 ' STOUT PANTS DIAGRAM VI. STOUT PANTS This draft is for a conservative style, and is made according to the average proportion- ate measurements. Waist 40. Seat 42. Rise lOK- Knee 20 J^. Bottom 16. Inseam 32. MEASUREMENTS DRAFT Draw hne ABCDEF. A to C is lOyi inches. C to F is the inseam, 32 inches. E is half way between C and F. E to D is 2 inches. Square out from points A-C-D-F. C to H is 3^ of seat plus J^ inch. Square up from H to N. G to H is >4 inch. C to I is % of seat. I to J and I to K are J/l inch each. L is half way between I and C. Square up from L to N. M to O and M to P are % of waist each. O to R is 3^ inch. Draw line R-P. Square down from O to U. to U IS 1/6 of waist. Draw line U-H. H to S is % of seat. Square out from S to B. Draw line S-L Shape the front R-J. Square down from L to W. B' to 6 is J4 inch. V to X and V to Y are % of knee each. W to Z and W to X are % of bottom each. Z to 3 and 2 to 4 are % 'tich each. Shape the inseam J-X-3 and the outside seam P-6-Y-4. W to 5 is ^ inch. Sha])e the bottom 3-3-4, which completes the forepart. BACK 8 is half way between N and M. .*^quare up from 8 to 9. S to 9 is lyi inches. 1 )ra\v line 9-7-K. j to 11 is 1/12 of seat. 11 to 12 is Yz inch. 12 to 13 is ^ inch. Shape the seat 9-7-J-13. P to R plus 9 to 14 is 1/2 of waist plus 2% inches. B to 15 is 1 inch. Y to 17 is yi inch. 2 to 19 is M inch. Shape the outside seam 14-15-17-19. X to 16 is % inch. Z to 18 is .j4 inch. .Shape the inseam 13-16-18. Shape the bottom 18-19 rounding out }i inch at point W, which completes the draft. STOUT PANTS 11 DIAGRAM VI 12 YOUNG MEN'S PANTS Diagram VII. YOUNG MEN'S PANTS This draft is for an English style, and is to be used for woolen goods only. The draft is made for a proportionate size 34. MEASUREMENTS Waist 34. Seat 40. Knee 19. Bottom 15. Inseam 32. DRAFT Draw line ABCD. A to B is 9j^ inches or the rise. B to D is 32 inches, the inseam. B to C is J4 of the inseam less 2 inches. Square out from points ABCD. B to E is J^ of 40, the seat, plus }4 inch. E to 7 is 3^ of seat. 7 to F is ^ inch. H is half way between B and 7. Square up from H to I and down from H to M. M to N is >4 inch. Draw hne H-N-O. 1 to J and I to K are 34 oi waist. E to 6 is >^ of 40, the seat. Draw line 6-7. Shape line J-F. B to 5 is 34 inch. N to P and N to Q are y4 of the knee, 19 inches. O to R and O to S are 34 of the bottom, 15 inches, less 34 inch each. Shape the inseam F-P-R and the outside seam K-5-Q-S. O to T is ^ inch. Shape the bottom R-S, which completes the forepart. BACK F to G is 1/12 of seat plus 3^2 inch. Drop point G % inch. 2 is half way between J and I. Draw line L-6-2-Z. 2 to Z is 234 inches. K to J and Z to 3 are 34 of waist plus 234 inches. 5 to B is 1 inch. .Shape the seat Y-G. P to U and Q to V are ^ inch each. R to W and S to X are % inch each. Shape the inseam G-U-W and the outside seam 3-V-X. Shape the bottom W-K. Take H inch Vee out at ]ioiiit 4, which completes the draft. YOUNG MEN'S PANTS 13 DlACJRAM VII U REGULAR PEG PANTS Diagram VIII. FULL PEG PANTS The diagram here illustrated is for full peg trousers. You will note that the inseam coii- structiou line is squared straight down from point J on the seat line. This gives you the ex- tra length on the outside seam that is required in a full peg trousers. MEASUREMENTS Waist 34. Seat 40. Inseam 42. Rise 9. Knee 22. Bottom 16. DRAFT Draw line ABCDE. A to C is 9 inches. C to D is 1/2 of inseam less 2 inches. C to E is 32 inches, the inseam. Square out from points ABCDE. C to F is J/2 of seat. F to G is J/2 inch. Square up from G to L. F to H is J/g of seat. H to I is >< inch. H to J is J/2 inch. K is half way between H and C. Square up from K to M. M to L and M to N are J4 of waist each. G to S is J^ of seat. Draw line H-S. Line T is J4 '"^^1"' from line H-S. Draw line L-I. C to R is J/^ inch. Square down from J to P. C to V is J^ of 22, the knee. P .to U is >^ of 16, the bottom. Shape the outside seam N-R-V-U. Shape the inside seam H-O-P. Draw the bottom P-U, which completes the forepart. BACK 2 is half way between M and L. Draw line 2-S-6. 2 to 3 is 2j^ inches. 1 to 8 is 1/12 of seat plus Yi inch. 8 to 9 is ^ inch. Shape the seat 3-S-9. LN plus 3-4 is Yz of seat plus 2J4 inches, 19J4 inches in this case. B to 10 is 2J/2 inches. V to 12 is Y inch. U to 14 is Y '"ch. Shape the outside seam 4-12-14. O to iris % inch. P to 13 is Yx inch. Shape the inseam 9-11-13, which completes the draft. REGULAR PEG PANTS 15 DIAGRAM \"1I1 WORK PANTS Diagram IX. WORK PANTS This draft is especially adapted for khak and all cotton materials. MEASUREMENTS Waist 34. Seat 40. Rise 103^. Knee 21. Bottom 17. Inseam 32. DRAFT Draw line ABCD. A to B is I0y2 inches. B to C is 2 inches less than yi of the inseam. B to D is 32 inches, the inseam. Square out from points ABCD. B to F is 3^ of seat plus yi inch. Square up from F to N. F to H is J/g of seat. H to G is 3^ inch. I is half way between G and B. Square up from I to J. J to N and J to O are 34 of ^^ each. F to 2 is 3^ of seat. Draw line 2-G. Shape N-H. Square down from I to K. K to L is 34 inch. Draw line I-L-M. M to R and M to S are % of bottom each. L to P and L to Q are % of knee each. Shape the inseam H-P-R and the outside seam O-B-Q-S, which finishes the forc])art. BACK T is half way between N and J. G to V is .>4 inch. Draw line U-T-V. T to U is 234 inches. H to W is 1/12 of seat. W to X is 3^ inch. X to Y is ^ inch. Shape the seat U-T-Y. O to N plus U to Z is 3^ of waist plus 13^ inches. P to 4 and Q to 5 are % inch each. R to 6 and S to 7 are ^ inch each. Draw the in seam Y-4-6 and the outside seam Z-5-7, which completes the draft. WORK PAN IS DIAGRAM I\ BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED Diagram X. BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED This illustrat^ion shows the variation from the regular draft that is used in producing trousers for bow-legged and knock-kneed. The dotted line shows the change for bow-legs. The dot and dash line shows the change for knock-knees. EXPLANATION Boi^'-Lcggcd Move the center line in 1 3/4 inches from M to 10. 10 to 11 and 10 to 12 are 34 of the bottom each. 15 to 16 and 15 to 18 are 34 of the knee each. Shape the inseam -16-11 and the outside seam B-Q-12, which finishes the forepart. DRAFT 16 to 17 is .)4 inch. 18 to 19 is 34 inch. 11 to 13 is ^ inch. 12 to 14 is Yz inch. Shape the inseam Y-17-13 and the outside seam 3-19-14, which finishes the back. Knock-Kuccd. Move the center line I34 inches out from M to 20. 20 to 22 and 20 to 23 are 34 of the bottom each. 24 to 25 and 24to 26 are 34 of the knee each. Shape the inseam H-25-22 and the outseam B -26-23. which completes the forepart. BACK The same measurements are allowed for seams on the back of the knock-kneed as for the bow-legged. BOWLEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED 19 13 11 10 20 IZ 1^ DIACRAM X 20 OVERALL DRAFT Diagram XI. OVERALL DRAFT This overall is made with a side seam, and is drafted 2 sizes larger than the regular pants measurement at the waist and seat. MEASUREMENTS Waist 34. Seat 40. Knee 20 1^. Bottom 19. Rise lOK'- Inseam 32. DRAFT Draw line ABCDE. C to G is y. of 21. G to H is >4 inch. Square up from H to N. G to I is J/^ of seat. I to J is j^ inch. H to 6 is >^ of seat. Square out from point 6 to B. Draw line 6-1. F is half way between I and C. Square up from F to K and down from F to M. Shape line N-J. R to L and R to Q is J4 of knee each. M to S and M to T are ^ of bottom each. Shape the inseam J-R-S and the outside seam A-Q-T. N to O is 1/4 of waist, which completes the front. BACK W is half way between N and K. Dra\\ line J-W-X. W to X is 3 inches. O to N plus X to Y is >4 of waist plus 1' s in;hes. J to V is 1/12 of 21 plus y2 inch. V to 9 is ^ inch. Shape the seat X-9. R to 2 is 1 inch. S to 4 is 1 inch. Shape the inseam 9-2-4. B to Z is 1^ inches. Q to 3 is Yi inch. T to 5 is Y2 inch. Draw the outside seam Y-T-5, which comi)letes the draft. OVERALL DIAGRAM XI APRON OVERALL Diagram XII. APRON OVERALL This overall is made with a side seam and bib, as illustrated. The draft is made 2 sizes larger at the waist and seat than the actual measurements. It is especially adapted for the better grade goods. MEASUREMENTS Waist 34. Rise 11. Seat 40. Knee 21. Bottom 19. Inseam 32. DRAFT Draw line ABEFG. A to B is 11 inches. i B to E is 2 inches less than 3/2 of the inseam. B to F is the inseam, 32 inches. F to G is 1 inch for turn-up. Square up from points ABEFG. B to H is >4 of 21. Square up from H to L. H to I is >^ of 21. I to J is y2 inch. 1 to 20 is 1 ■/ inches. M is half way between H and B. Square down from M to N. H to U is y^ of 21. Draw line U-1. Shape the front L-J. E to U is 11 inches. F to O is 1034 inches. Draw the inseam J-U-O, which completes th'j front. BIB Square up from L to 16. L to 16 is 11 inches. 16 to 17 is 5j^ inches. A to 14 is l-)4 inches. Draw hues 16-17, 17-14, 13-14, and H-A. BACK . L to Y is 1/12 of waist. U to Z is 1/12 of 21. Draw line Y-Z. J to W is 1/12 of 21 plus I/' inch. "W to 1 is >1 inch. Y to 2 is 5j4 inches. Draw the seat, 2-Z-l. U to 19 is Yi inch. Shape the inseam 1-19-P. A to 4 is Vy inches. Draw line 4-F. 2 to 3 is 3 inches. Shape 3-14. 5 to 7 and 6 to 8 are 1 inch each. 7 to 8 is 8>4 inches. A to 10 is 4>^ inches. A to 6 is 63^ inches. POCKETS Make the back pocket 6 inches wide and 7 inches deep. Make the pocket on bib 5 inches wide and 6 inches deep. Make the lower side pocket 6 J/ inches deep and 3;^ inches wide. APRON OV'ERALL DIAGRAM XII 24 ONE-PIECE OVERALL Diagram XIII. ONE-PIECE OVERALL This draft is for a cheap grade of overalls. It is matle without any side-seam. The draft is made 2 sizes larger than the regular pants measurements across the seat and waist. MEASUREMENTS Waist 34. Seat 40. Knee 20. Bottom ISyi. Rise \0y2. Inseam 32. DRAFT Draw line ABCD. A to B is lOyi inches. B to D is the inseam, 32 inches. B to C is J4 of the inseam less 2 inches, 14 inches in this case. Square out from points B, C and D. B to E is >^ of 21. E to F is J/s of 21 less % inch. Square down from F to G. F to G is 1/12 of 21. Draw line B-G-R. J is half way between G and B. Square up from J to K. J to K is 103^ inches. Draw line A-K-I. K to I is >^ of 18. Square up from H to I. H to L is >^ of 21. Draw line L-G. Line M-N is % inch from L-G. Shape the front I-G. 2 to O is 1 inch. Draw line C-O-P. 3 to Q is 1 inch. 8— DESIGNER 1800 Martin May 17 Draw line D-Q-T. C to O is ^ of the knee. D to Q is yi of bottom. Shape the inseam G-O-Q, wdiich finishes the forepart. BACK I A plus AT is y2 of 36 plus \% inches, 19J.4 inches in this case. Square up from T to U. T to U is 3 inches. Draw line U-A. G to R is 1/12 of 21. K to S is 34 -inch. Draw line U-R-S. Shape the seat U-S. O to P is 54 inch. Q to T is % inch. Shape the inseam S-T, which completes the draft. ONE-PIECE OVERALL DIAGRAM XIII 26 MAIL-ORDER CHANGES Diagram XIV. MAIL ORDER CHANGES Lowering and raising the rise Diagrams A and B show exactly how to lower the rise 1 inch and raise the rise 1 inch. FOREPART. {Diagram B.) A to 1 and B to 2 are 1 inch each. A to 3 and B to 4 are 1 inch each. Line 1-2 and line 3-4 are the same length as line A-B. In other words square up and down from points B and A. Then reshape the side-seam as illustrated. BACK. {Diagram A.) Extend line A to 1. Square up and down from point C to 3 and 6. A to 1, B to 2 and C to 3 are 1 inch each. A to 4, B to 5 and C to 6 are 1 inch each. Reshape the side-seam, as illustrated. CONTINUOUS WAISTBAND. {Diagrams C and D.) 1 to 3 is 1)4 inches. 2 to 4 is 1^ inches. BACK. (Diagram C.) 6 to 3 is 1;54 inches. 2 to 5 is 1^ inches. 1 to 4 is lyi inches. CUFF BOTTOMS. {Diagrams F and G) FOREPART. {Diagram G) Square down from A to 1 and B to 2. A to 1 is 5 inches. B to 2 is 5 inches. A to 3 and 3 to 5 are 2 inches each. B to 4 and 4 to 6 are 2 inches each. 4 to 8 and 3 to 7 are 34 inches each. 1 to 9 and 2 to 10 are 34 inches each. Reshape the bottom A-7-5-9 and B-8-6-10, as illustrated. BACK. {Diagram F) Square down from A to 1 and B to 2. A to 1 is 5 inches ancl B to 2 is 5 inches. A to 3 and 5 to 5 are 2 inches each. 3 to 7 and 4 to 8 are 34 inch. each. 1 to 9 and 2 to 10 are 34 inch each. Reshape the bottom A-7-9 and B-8-10. DRESS. {Diagram F.) B to 2 is ^ inch. C is the notch. A to 1 is Vn inch. Draw line 1-2-3. FLY (Diagram /.) AB is the forepart. 1 to 2 is 2 inches. 3 to 4 is 134 inches. Draw lines 1-3 and 2-4. MAIL-ORDER CHANGES 27 DIAGRAM XIV WAISTBAD (Diagram H .) Draw line 1-2. 1 to 5 is 2 inches. 5 to 6 is ■/< of the waistband measure. 6 to 2 is 1 inch. Square up from 1 to 3 and up from 2 tc 4. 1 to 3 is 2y2 inches. 2 to 4 is 2 inches. Draw hnes 1-3, 3-4, and 4-2. 28 DRAFTING PANTS POCKETS AND POCKET LAYS TN cutting pants pockets, the width, depth and •^ shape, should be considered. They should be cut exact so as to eliminate any possible waste. Most trimmers cut their front pockets, 14" x 14" and back pockets 7" x 18". As pocketing comes 28" wide, the goods is split up to these measurements and distributed to the tailors. The pants tailor then becomes the designer and the pockets are shaped according to his taste. The result is that the pockets do not hang correctly and they are not uniform. It is very important that the front pockets be shaped correctly. The top of pocket should be hollowed out, as shown in the accompanying dia- gram. This gives the pocket the proper hang and balance. The front pockets should be sewed in the pants 1 inch from waistband and opening should be Syi inches. The back pockets should be sewed in 3;^ inches from top of waistband and opening should he Sy^ inches. Cash Pockets. Dial/ ram C. A to B is 4 inches. A to C is 8 inches. Piof/raui D. Side Pieces. A to B is 1>< inches. A to C is 8 inches. n Front P.ocket Lay Shozving A Saving Of Side Pieces And Watch Pockets. A. Front Pockets. C. Watch Pockets. D. Side Pockets. Diagram F. Back Pockets and IVatch Pockets. B. Back Pockets. C. Watch Pockets. Note — Back Pockets are only 17 inches long on account of pocket being 3^/2 inches from top of waistband. This gives you the same depth as 18 inch pocket which is set in 4^ inches from top. Front Pockets. Diagram A. A to D is 14 inches. A to H is 14 inches. A to B is 23/ inches. C to D is 23/2 inches. B C is hollowed out 1 inch at point F. Shape Pocket as shown. Rack Pockets. A to B is 7 inches. A to C is 17 inches. DRAFTING PANTS POCKETS AND. POCKET LAYS 29 B & 3 30 RIDING BREECHES Diagram XV. RIDING BREECHES MEASUREMENTS Waist 34. Seat 40. Knee 16. Calf 12K'- Shank 10^. Rise 10. DRAFT Draw line ABCDEFG. A to C is 10 inches. A to D is 20 inches. D to E is 7 inches. D to F is llj^. D to G is 19 inches. Square out from points ABCDEFG. C to H is 5^ of seat. H to I is Yz inch. Square up from I to O and down from I to 26. H to J is ^ of seat. J to K and J to L are Yz inch each. M is half way between J and C. Square up from M to N. N to () and N to P are J4 of waist each. to R is i^ inch. P to S is J/^ inch. Draw line S-T. 1 to W is >^ of seat. Square out from W to 3. Draw line W-J. XL is J4 inch from W-J. Shape the front R-K. C to T is 2 inches. Square up from T to 3 and down from T to 4. M to U is 2 inches. Square down from U to V. Z to 5 and Z to 6 are Y\ of knee each. 2 to 7 and 2 to 8 are % of calf eahc. V to 9 and V to 10 are Y of shank each. Shape the outside seam 3-T-6-8-10. Shape the inside seam K-1 1-5-7-9. Add \y2 inch waistband, which completes the forepart. BACK N to Hne 14- T is 1 inch. Draw line J-14-15-16. 14 to 15 is J4 of waist. 15 to 16 is \Yi inches. K to 17 is 1/12 of seat. 17 to 18 is 1 inch. 18 to 19 is Yi inch. Shape the seat 16-15-14-17-19. R-S plus 15-20 is Y2 of waist plus 2jX inches. Take out ■/ inch Vee, as illustrated. T to 22 is 2Y\ inches. R to 23 is Y inch. 6 to 25 is Y2 inch. 8 to 27 is Y-i inch. 10 to G is 2J4 inches. 11 to 24 is ^ inch. 5 to 26, 7 to 28, and 9 to 29 are y-i inch each. Shape the inseam and the outside seam, as il lustrated. Take out 1'/ inch Vee from 30 to 31 FOR FRONT BUTTONING Take off from the forepart 6 to 32, 8 to 34, which are 2J4 inches each, 10 to 36, which is 1J4 inches. Add this to the back from 25 to i}>, and 27 to 35. G to 2)7 add 2^ inches. Take out 1>4 inch Vee from 38 to 39, as illus- trated. Take out 1 inch Vee from back from 30 to 40, as shown on diagram. OVERALLS AND PANTS PROPORTIONS 31 C/3 ^ O H O a, O H ^ LU 044^03 a3/v;i/ 3^'iL 5 ^^ fO ^^^S^ CO K7 to ^ ^ K t 00 ^ ;s;/p/77 to ^ iO CO iO cv ^ t ^ 00 ^ ^^iK 00 00 ON On (JN ON - fV 10 to ^Hl^^ ^0 i>^ ^ 00 00 c> 0\ ■ dduy/; 00 -w 5 o\ Oi ';^^ fV 02 to to •cvj to V^^S to ^0 to to 00 to ^ 2>^ ^ •4S/P/77 CO to to to CO to ^ CM ^ ^ ^ 00 ^ CO ►J < oi > O O 'J Z z SI H .^ tin >. ft; s Q a o < u « ;i = 2 ^^ ^ = s ^ - ■ ^ ^ =c iS = s: s ? ^ 5 r: s ? g; * - ^ T. - ;; ^ ? ^ r -a- ^ s ? - ^ s ^ 5 S- ^ 2 I. 2 - „ % 5- "S 2 X 2 2 „ 00 -r 1 s- 2^ s; « -N 2^ ct 00 -0 r. ^ S s ^ s t S 5 % to ^ 2 s i g 3; s; 2 - X - c: J= § T i^ ^ ™ s ^ s; ^ s '.a ^, 2 - 5 S - s c 5 -s ? ^ ^ Ci >: s ,, „ C-. S i?. ^ c 5 ^ -. ,. ^ ^ s gl s: ■s- §5 2 f s. = ^t = a g _ 2^ „ _ ^ _ - s? 5 s 5'. - ? § - « X 2 ■£. s s; ^ X s S ST ^ ^ X <» H ^ i; s c X « .-^ ^ i? § i » %, 1 H 1 ti OS P 5 H (. :i 'i f- S' 2^- cs f- H s H H X£. 13 11 P E aavuNVis S0IKVH03IM sa.iaxioKj Don't Grope Around in the Dark — Eliminate Guesswork STUDY, and be guided by, Harry Simons' books on the science of grading, draft- ing and working overcoats, pants and cotton garments. No designer, cutter or tailor should be without these books. They are indispensable and invaluable ; give you confidence and assurance. Select the books most necessary in your par- ticular specialty. Make the slight investment. A trial will convince you that they will serve your every need and desire. You wouldn't sell them for any amount. All theory is eliminated. The author is a practical designer with a national reputation. Designers and cutters in many of the best retail and wholesale houses consult these books contin- ually. Hundreds of testimonials on file in our ofifice prove the practical value of these books. 'THE SCIENCE OF GRADING" THIS book is the latest and most exhaus- tive work on the knack and science of grading mens and youths' patterns. It is recognized and used by many of the highest paid and nationally known designers in cus- tom made and wholesale clothing industries. The drafts are a work of art and every phase of grading is tersely depicted in the simplest manner possible. No theory is injected here- in. Mr. Simons is a practical designer of national reputation and he personally answers all questions asked by purchasers. This book will cost you only $15.00. "PANTS DRAFTS" TOO frequently nants are given least attention which is a great mis- take. This book gives precise instruction on the following assort- ment: regular, peg, English, sout. extra- stout, knock knee, bow leg, prominent seat, flat seat, and prominent stomach. The text rhat- ter is embellished with drafts, so you get both a printed and drawn picture of all styles. It deals with changes, tells how to locate faults, and accomplish alterations with least effort. Gives proportionate measurements of different sizes; tells how to make mail order changes in various heights. Price $10.00. 'DRAFTING OVERCOATS." GET this book and rest assured that your competitors cannot possibly make a classier, snappier, and more stylish overcoat in any respect than is illustrated herein. This book contains drafts and text matter of all the latest patterns and many features far in advance of the present day. The system used in creat- ing each draft is minutely and exhaus- tively described in such a manner that every- body can readily un- derstand and work from them. Bear in mind all points are carefully ex.- plained. Price Only $15.00 HARRY SIMONS c 'COTTON DRAFTS" UTTING and tailoring cotton materials is one of the most tedious phases of the business. This book tells how to make cotton garments of every description that have snap, style, and finish. The text matter is amply inter- larded with drawings. The following garments are exhaustively described: Palm Beach suits, lined and crash coats, barber and bar coats, bar vests, doctors and dentists gowns, auto- jnobile, grocers and provisioners dusters, etc. Alterations, etc , are carefully described and explained. Order today. Will serve you a lifetime, and costs only $10.00. The CLOTHING DESIGNER CO., 70 Fifth Ave., New York, N.Y.