T H B EKELSIOR TROUSERS COTTER, ■W]T13. A TllKATmE ON DEFECTS AND REMEDIES IN T]^OTJSB]:i8 THE EXCELSIOR TROUSERS CUTTER WITH A TREATISE ON DEFECTS i REMEDIES IN TROUSERS. FULLY ILLUSTRATED WITH NINETEEN DIAGRAMS. BY ( MAR 31 ie:: ) ROBERT PHILLIPS, Editor Custom Cutter &. Fashion Review, CHICAGO. A. LANGRIDGE, ^^ Lecturer National Federation of Foremen Tailors' Societies, ENGLAND. . . .THE ROBERT PHILLIPS CO., PRICE S5. 00. CHICAGO, ILL, U.S. A. COPYRIGHTED BY R. PHILLIPS, ' "'"^ ^ o c ■i ,^ ^/^ '^'- '^3^^ The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. CONTENTS. PART FIRST. PAGE. Poctraite of the Authors, Robert Phillips and A. Laogridge 2 Contents, 3 Preface, 5 Chapter I., Introduction, 6 " II., A ttitude, Motion, Obpervation, 7 " III., The InBtep anl Heel, 7 Normal Measures 8 Diagram 1. The Nude Figure, (Diagrams 1 and 2) 8 Diagram 3, Normal Troupers, ; 10, 11 Diagram 4, Abnormal Trou8»>rs, 12, 13 Diagram 5, Knee Breeches, 14 PART SECOND. Defects and Remedies in Trousers Cutting- Introduction, 15 Same Size Measures, 15 A Right Method IG Diagrams 2 and 3, 17 How to Draft same and Diagram 4 18 Diagrams 1, 2, 3, and 4 19 Erect and Forward Figures, 20 The Advantages and Disadvantages of the Forward and Receding Front. 20 The Effect of a too forward front (see diagram 10) 21 The effect of a too Receding Front, 21 Peculiarities and Deformities of Custonaers, 22 Principal Objections, 23 Horse Shoe Creases 23 Diagrams 5 and ^6, 24 " 7 and 8, 25 0.10,8nd 11, 26 " 12 27 APPENDIX. Appendix to Defects and R>medies in Trousers Cutting, 28 The Excelsior Method in Practice— Hollow Inside Thigh and Flat Seat 28 The Excei sior Tkousers Cutter. |M -^^^PP^EFAGK.l^ In presenting this work to the trade we realize that our efforts in this direction will be criticized by some, endorsed by others, and used by those who" are in the line of proi^ress. It is an easy matter for an intelligent, or even an illiterate, man to condemn a work of this nature, but it is another and entirely different thitig to disprove the principles embodied in the system set forth. It is not the interest of the authors of this voluriie to condemn other works on trousers cutting that have been published, but we do affirm that no work ever published in America covers the ground so thoroughly and arrives at correct conclusions in an easier, more scientific and practical way than the present volume. The reason for this is the fact that the authors are men of long experience in the trade as practical tailors and cutters and have re- duced their actual experience at the cutting board to a system we claim not excelled, if equaled, by any other author. This may seem boasting to some, but to satisfy yourselves of our claim it will be expedient to thoroughly examine our work and test it by actual experience, and we believe the present work will be endorsed by the trade as a vade mecvm'in their work. We do not insist that you should utilize every opinion or illustration it contains, if they are not in harmony with your views, but they may lead you into new and unexplored fields, so that your actual experience will be increased. Neither do we insist that you should abandon your present method of trousers cutting if it is giving you that satisfaction that it ought to give, and we presume that all who read this volume are sufficiently well informed on the scientific principles that underly correct trousers cutting, but that the facts here set forth may cause you to inquire further into the cniii^e and '#''<■/ of trousers cutting. If you know certain effects in your trousers to exist, it is the part of the wise man to en- deavor to locate the cause, and we simply present this volume to the trade with the hope that it will assist those who are in trouble, and the belief that it will lead you into new channels of development and proficiency. I'^eeling confident that when the trade are fully aware of the usefulness of the present volume they will willingly peruse its pages carefully, believing that those who seek shall find the jewels that are still hidden in the fundamental principles of scientific cutting. RoKEKT 1*1111 I l^'^. Publisher. The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. PWRT F\RST . The Excelsior Trousers System is taught at the Custom Cutter School of Cutting, illustrated by scientific diagrams showing the symmetrical relation of the legs in a stand- ing, moving and sitting position. OHA-i^TEK. I. INTRODUCTION. Notwithstandingthe many valuable and ably written books on trousers cutting that have been published, many of which have become standard text books, there still remain many valuable and reliable things to be said, and problems to be elucidated for the benefit of the present and coming generations. We do not hope, by the publication of the present volume, to scatter all the darkness and move scientific theories that are believed by many in our pro- fession, but we do hope to so interest and, if per chance, enlighten a few who are seeking for more light, that a higher and a more ad- vance position will be taken in the art of trousers cutting. Part II of this volume so thoroughly covers the ground on the question of defects and causes that it is needless for us to repeat here many of the principles there set forth, in dif- ferent phraseology and by different illustra- tions. Suffice to say that the main features and principles set forth in this work are the joint opinions of the authors, who have endeavored to be as lucid as possible in their several parts. The reader will observe that the authors start out from different standpoints in the sys- tems given, and while Mr. Langridge may not use the same divisions as Mr. Phillips, the con- clusions will be found to be in unison, and either system will give results that will be sat- isfactory to the student. For the style and fit of trousers worn in America the American cut- ter will necessarily make som.e slight changes in Mr. Langridge's method, while on the other hand the English cutter will change to some extent the Excelsior method, so that it may be better adapted to the style of trousers worn in England. But, as we said in the preface, this work's chief use will doubtless be to assist the operator to discover where defects are and to give him illustrations of how to remedy them to the satisfaction of himself and the comfort of his clients. So far as we know no work of this nature has ever been published in America, and we are convinced that many in our profession will hail with delight this volume of useful infor- mation, .ind we believe it will be given an honored place in the technical libraries of the craft. One of the great hindrances to the better understanding of the principles that underlie scientific trousers cutting is the fact that most of our authors have devoted most of their time to coats and vests and other garments for the upper or trunk part of the body — hence, to a large extent trousers cutting has been neglected in a scientific sense. Of recent years, however, more attention has been given to the study of the subject and now quire a number of good and reliable methods have been published. Realizing that our readers would rather study fundamental and scientific principles than the publisher's personal opinions on trousers cut- ting on general principles, we therefore ap- proach the subject, believing that when they have given it careful consideration and practical tests they will readily exclaim that the methods set forth and the manner in which the problems are handled are Excelsior. The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. CH-A-IPTE'^L II. ATTITUDE. The primary attitude of man is to stand upright, hence, the first principle to b'^ consid- ered is, can we lay down a principle in mathe- matical calculation by measurements of the legs to be a fundamental in the problem of trousers cutting? We answer, if we measure the extreme parts that are to be covered by the garment we propose producing, we should be able to do so, provided these parts are in proportion to each other, as well as the inter- mediate or connecting sections. To correctly cover the legs in an uprieht attitude would not be a difificult problem if that part of the anatomy always remained in that position, but observation has taught us that the lower part changes in attitude according to the will of the upper part, or we might say the intellectual or will part. The legs of them- selves without a guiding influence would be of little use to mankind other than simply filling the intermediate between the body and the ground, if it were not for their joint action with the trunk or upper-section and the will power; hence, we say that the attitude changes in its lower parts at the will of man to m^et the re- quirements of balance or equilibrium when moving. MOTION. The movement of the legs in their normal condition is forward with a slight tendency to the outward; or, as we would say, the leg in motion assumes a centrifugal position; which position becomes absolutely necessary that the upper and heavier part of the whole (or upper section of the body) may be in balance or in harmony with the section that gives l.como- tion to the entire body. It is, we believe, a lack of knowledge on this problem that causes so many defects to be apparent in modern trousers, and which must forever remain so long as many of the fallacies in the construc- tion of the systems are allowed to go by de- fault. If we can establish the hypothesis that mankind was not made to stand but to have a forward motion according to the location of each muscle and bone, and to be in a right angle in a sitting position, which is the extreme of any position of the body then, we can easily arrange a method or system on a scientific basis that we believe will meet the require- ments of the various attitudes the body as- sumes in complying with the intellectual or will power of the individual. OBSERVATION. Any observing cutter can demonstrate for himself the truth of the foregoing by observ- ing the attitude and motion of a man when walking. It is an admitted fact that the larger the individual becomes at the waist the more he will open his feet when in motion. This leads us to mention close pnd open cut, which we believe is not fully understood by a large per cent of cutters, and has given no end of trouble to many a man who realized something was wrong, yet he failed to locite the cause. Several attempts have been made in the past to discover the distance the feet are apart both in a standing and walking position, but thus far no correct method has been laid down that has been in harmony with actual experi- ence, hence we propose in the following chap- ter to give a rule or method that we have used for a number of years with success. CH^FTEI?. III. THE INSTEP AND HEEL. Various rules have been given to locate cor- rectly the instep and heels both in a standing and walking position. Some by actual meas- urement and others by a division of the seat and waist measures, but we have found such a difference of opinion on the result that we have made a mathematical calculation as a guide to our readers in studying out the vari- ous sizes as follows: The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. NOKMAL measures. .seat ANKLE SEAr • 37 ANKLE . . 9H SEAT 44 ANKLE 30 II?'^ 3' s^A 3« 9^ 45 115^ 3-' SH 39 ^oA 46 11% JO SsA 40 10)^ 47 I2>^ 34 8% 41 I05/8 4« I2H 35 Q'A 4^ io^. Proceed as in Diagram 3 until you get to the division of seat measure to find distance from J^ to C as follows: For every inch above a forty seat reduce the fork one- eighth of an inch and advance the same quan- tity at D at front waist, e. g. One-half of 21 = loj^ less >4 inch=ioless 2-8=9% total quan- tity from '/i to C, or equal to about a forty-one seat if cut on the proportions of ordinary sizes. I now go out from O to D one inch more than distance from % to C and also add the two- eights reduced, e. g.; Q^ + i = 10^+2-8= 1 1 total quantity from () to D. Now lay square on touching >4, C and D and draw fork and front waist line. Make waist line from D to O par- allel with fork line. Proceed as described in Diagram 3 for fork quantities and to get round for abdomen add on in front from D in ad- vance of line D-C one-eighth for each size re- duced at fork, thus you have added twice the quantity you reduced at C. Now shape front of fly and fork. To get correct height of waist at 6, subtract the proportionate waist size, which should have been four inches smaller than seat from the actual waist size, thus 38 from 42=4, showing four inches to be the dis- proportion. Now divide four into three equal parts and add one part at top of waist from D to 6, which gives the correct use for this size. You now proceed to finish forepart as per Dia- gram 3. THE UNDERSIDES. The only difference we make in the under- sides is, add from H to 7 one and three- fourth, to two and even two and one-fourth inches for fork room, and add two and one- half inches to seat measure, and one inch more than waist measure from X to W, but take out no Y. You can readily see that Diagram 4 is con- siderably more open in the legs than Diagram 3, from the fact that the front waist is more advanced and the fork is lower, thereby open- ing the legs, giving greater length from fork to waist in front, and consequently the side seam is shortened, thus proving that the feet are further apart, which fact has become an absolute necessity to give balance to the ab- normal section above. The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 13 Diagram 4. ABNORMAL TROUSERS. 14 The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. Diagram 5. knee breeches. The measures: Leg i4-i6>ij-iq, waist 34, seat 38, thigh 21, knee 14^4, upper calf 15, be- tween upper calf and knee, as at L, it,^- THE FOREPARTS. Proceed as in Diagram 3, until the entire top of forepart is complete. To get construc- tion line for bottom, continue line D-C to N-L and Y. Apply leg lengths and go out from N and L one inch, and at Y one and one-fourth, and shape inside leg seam to bottom. Apply half of knee and upper calf measure from i to A and from i % to R, and shape outside seam, having placed one-half of thigh measure three inches below fork as per dotted line, and add a little round from R to i^. THE UNDERSIDES. Lay square on K, U and B and draw seat angle and adtl a little round on seat opposite at T, advancing one-half inch at 3 from U, and continue to 7. The reason of adding at 3 one- half inch or making seat angle straighter is, that as the gent seats himself in the saddle his knees approach nt-arer to a right angle than they were in a standing or walking position; hence, the necessity for a more open cut and a straighter seat angle. Apply measures mak- ing the same increase as in a fat man's trousers and take V out at waist as represented. The undersides should be well stretched where marked so as to reduce the surplus cloth when in a standing and sitting position. Now apply lower or knee measures and three-fourths for seams only; they ought to be made quite close around knee, as the positions of the knees soon cause the material to stretch at those parts, and unless they fit perfectly they are apt to ride up a little with the motion of the horse. Hollow the back parts as repre- sented by dotted line 2 and put five buttons at knee, the top button being on a direct line with knee. Diagram 5. KNEE BREECHES. now TO MEASURE. Take all lengths same as for trousers, only, of course, taking the lengths required. The waist and seat measures should be taken rather closely over the trousers, but the thigh, knee, small and upper calf should be taken medium close over the underclothing, as it is never safe to measure over a garment that does not fit the leg closely. When the measures are taken over the underclothing the seams must be added for making up. The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 15 PV\RT SHOOHO. DEFECTS AND REMEDIES IN TR( USERS CUTTING. Unfortunately for those who have to con- struct trousers for all sorts and con(l'ti-truction in trousers cutting leads, of course, to an unequal distribution of material, and this in turn is the cause of all our trouble in the matter of defects. Either the i6 Defects and Remedies top sides are too open or too close — the oper- ator very often not knowing which — the under- sides, of course, following suit, and the harmony of the whole is not exactly what we could wish. But whatever be the opinion of an individ- ual upon this question, the differences of opin- ion generally are so many and varied, that notions and theorie"?, peculiarities of form and defects, get so hopelessly mixed up, that to un- ravel this great mystery to the satisfaction of all is a great task indeed. With these preliminary remarks, made by way of introduction, I will proceed to the sub- ject under discussion and endeavor to reduce to a demonstration all the points in question, in the order they come. A RIGHT METHOD. In the first place, what is the best and most useful system in the main for producing trousers? This is the most important question con- nected with the whole subject, because upon the solution of it hangs the true remedy for all defects. If one could point out the best system of construction m trousers, and could lay it down to the satisfaction of all cutters, there would be really no necessity to proceed with the other problems, as that point of per- fection would be reached when defects would be spoken of as things of the past. Then again, if we carefully consider the question of construction in trousers, one might be bold enough to assert that there is every possibility of discovering a perfect system, from the fact that we often meet with first-class fit- ting trousers, and upon this evidence alone the presumption would be that there is something beyond which would point to a nearer perfec- tion than what might be termed first-class. Of course the best system in the main for producing trousers would be a method based upon scientific principles which would describe in systematic form the exact requirements of the figure. Now the requirements of the figure are simply a demand for a covering that will at the same time be easy and graceful, limited, of course, to a given size. One of the primary conditions of trousers cutting is to secure the exact size or measures of the figure; as in all cutting the possession of correct measures is absolutely necessary if perfect results are desired. First of all then, before we attempt to con- struct a system, we must be certain of the cor- rectness of the measures and we must satisfy ourselves that we perfectly understand what is meant by "attitude" and "motion," for the at- titude must determine the direction of the figure, which the lines of construction must also follow the motions directing the inter- mediates or stations, where a disturbance of material takes place, resulting from the natural movements of the figure. Although it is pos- sible for a figure to assume almost every con- ceivable position, still the limit is reached at a right angle. It therefore follows that in the construction of trousers we have two extreme provisions to make. Firstly, to provide for the natural atti- tude. Secondly, to provide for the full extent of angle required in the act of sitting down. If we had only to consider the primary attitude of man, that of stantling bolt upright, our diffi- culties would not be very great, as trousers constructed on the plumb principle would meet the requirements of this isolated position, but from the fact of the figure's movements in the breaking up of straight lines comes all the creases and defects so visibly apparent in the majority of our trousers. In the construction of a perfect trousers system there are several important points which demand serious attention and consider- ation. First of all comes the figure itself, with a limited outline of form and size, the exact dimensions being described by the inch tape and entered in the order book. If we take a review of the figure, whether large or small, we find that there are certain straight lines running through the figure, which may be termed imaginary. For instance, we might imagine a line say upwards and downwards from A terminating inside the foot (See Diagram I.) Then we might imagine another upwards and downwards from B, cutting centre of knee and terminating at the instep. There is also the fiy line, which, if plumbed downwards. In Trousers Cutting. 17 would find the centre of the distance the heels are apart — unless in the case of malformation. I find in experimenting, testing and com- paring, that there is a certain "ratio" the heels are apart and although not scientifically cor- rect to the fraction of an inch, yet for all prac- tical purposes, the distance may be set down at one-nintii of the total seat and would cor- r-ispond with O- 13 (Diagram i). Forcxample, for a thirty-six seat the heels would be about four inches apart, and in a fifty-four seat they would be six inches apart, whiah is evidence that the large draft would in reality be more open in the legs, although from a casual glance at the draft — taking the boundary or side line into consideration — the trousers might appear closer than the smaller size or thirty-six seat. Of course there are causes which vary these conditions slightly, but not sufficiently to have any material effect on the hang of the trousers. The question has been cjebated many times as to which should be the primary construction line in drafting trousers, but the debaters most- ly fail to grasp the idea that there is practi- cally no difference between the side, centre or front line, as they must be parallel with the boundaries of the figure and ai.i, travel in the same direction. I'or instance, if wc adopt the side line we attach quantities in the direction of the other two, and if we take the front line our operations are directed to the side, and if we adopt the centre line our operations take opposite directions from that line. The only thing about which to be particular is to sec that these lines, however used, travel in har- mony with the imaginary lines running through the figure, seeing also that the leg cuts the cen- tre of the draft. We often read of the terms "open" and "close," but these terms, strictly speaking, can- not be applied only in error, because if a draft is correct the terms have no application, from the fact of the draft being right. The terms can be used in a technical sense to describe a departure from an original for a specific pur- pose, but the effect produced is a delect, and if a perfect system was introduced there would be no application of the terms at all, for even the very admission of them prove that one de- fect is introduced to cover another. We will just suppose a trousers cut upon what is termed the "open" principle (see Diuyram 2. When the leg was passed through the trousers the natural hang of the material would be outward and the consequence would be that the leg would force the material in its own di- rection, which would have the effect of creat- ing creases all up the leg seam when on, to the extent that the trousers were unnaturally opened. The very opposite would take place in a too close cut trousers. The leg again be- ing the active member it would force the material in its own direction. See Difujrtim 3. If I were to have the choice between these two evils, I certainly should incline to the close cut, as the fork and leg seam would present a better appearance in walking, as the material in being forced to the side would not be so con- spicuous, owing to there being more length and freedom in the side seam, consequently the evil can be better tolerated. Now in order to construct a system that will adapt itself to the generality of figures, we must think out the imaginary lines before re- ferred to, in order to obtain a right conception of what is required. Not only must we be certain of the actual construction lines them- selves, but the boundaries of the figure must be taken into consideration or the trousers would become too large or too small. The material must extend to, and not beyond, the superficies. The covering must be complete as to limit, including seams, and the usual amount for ease and style. We often meet with trousers, and other garments as well, which have the appearance of being well cut and well balanced, but they sometimes happen to be too large or too small. This shows that the measures were not cor- rectly taken, otherwise they would have been first rate garments. If we glance at Diagram i we have a rep- resentation of this defect. The trousers are well balanced, the leg goes straight through, but there is too much material in the fork and in consequence there would be a lot of stuff in the lap when sitting down, with probabe creases from the inside knee to fork points. This often arises from using divisions of the seat i8 Defects and Remedies when the ligure is not of the normal type. The sum total of the seat may be the same, only in this case the trousers would be close, or tight, upon the hips and loose in the fork and back seat. Diagram 2 shows the relation between the direction of the leg and the material when trousers are cut more open than the figure re- quires and the consequence would be a displace- ment of material when the figure was in actual motion. Diagram 3 shows the result of trousers be- ing cut closer than is necessary, the conse- quences being just the reverse of the open cut. It therefore shows that the boundaries should be well defined by correct measures, thus avoiding too much or too little material, which will of itself create a defect even in a well balanced and properly constructed system. I have referred to Diagrams 2 and 3 a second time to show what a mistaken idea it is to cut trousers more open and close than is actually required, unless the departure takes place to meet some extraordinary demand of the figure. I will now endeavor to show in a plain and simple manner, what I consider to be the proper systematic construction of trousers. My experience has been very e.xtensive, and I am conceited enough to think that the system about to be described will produce a garment for the majority of figures, with little or no variation, unless for some extraordinary pur- pose. The best trousers for ordinary wear is a fairly straight cut with just as much seat angle as the construction will naturally produce. Of course any angle may be given, but this is al- ways accompanied with a defect, although the defect so produced may be less in comparison to the good done in shifting the angle, and which perhaps was done for a specific purpose, as in the case of a workingman's trousers, or where absolute ease was the first consideration- In laying down this system I would beg of the reader to use the small drafts for reference and to produce from them large ones for the full development of it, as small drawings do not convey to the mind what might be termed the "go" of the whole thing. I have been most painstaking in the construction of this system, which I have hitherto kept for my own private use. For the systematic construction see Di(i(jram 4. Rule A O X. () to X is the side leng'h; X to F, two inches more than half the leg, eighteen; and on to B, the full length of leg, thirty-one. Square B C, F D and M P. From B to 4, one-ninth of total seat, four inches; B to E, one-fourth of seat, nine inches; point 6 is half way between 4 and E; point 5 is half way between 6 and 4. Square down from 5 to W and up from 6 to N. E to C is same as 6 to E, with a seam added (or the correct and best way is from B to C half fork measure and half inch) . Square up from E to T for Hy line. Make from T to () one-fourth waist and seams, eight and one- half. Lower one-half or three quarters at T (un- less for very large waists when T would have to be raised as the waist increases). Nicely curve from T to C, particular care being taken not to hollow the curve too much, and a good dress to be taken out to allow the right side to go clear. From V to D, one-ninth of total scat and seam, I) F half knee measure. P to M. one inch less than half the bottom measure, and finish topsides as diagram. Tilt: UNDEKSIDES. Lav down the top sides as conveniently as possible (so as not to waste the material ) and continue the line from 6 to S.and from N to S make one-ninth total seat, four inches, and curve seat line from S to C, overshooting C about one inch, more or less (if desired very easy or close). Mark out two seams at Dand rule the underside leg as shown, giving quitt; two-thirds of spring outside P and one-tliird outside M. Make up total waist, allowing for a good sized cut to be taken out, the seat to measure one and one-half to two inches more than total measure to allow for ease and mak- ing up, and complete the draft as diagram. Now the system as here given is not only effective, but it is arranged in a simple manner so as to be easily understood by the most in- experienced student. Systems that are not easily arranged certainly are not easily under- stood. Garments of every description, in my opin- ion, should always be drafted from the square because any departure therefrom can now readily be detected. Sometimes we meet with systems contain- ing tremedous curves and also a very wide In Trouskrs Cutting. iQ O m m o o Q <: Oh O 2 o 20 Defects and Remedies Seat angle. Now it follows that if very curved lines are sewn to very straight ones the effect must be bad, for when this is done the iron must rectify the error and pressing and shrink- ing has to be carried to an enormous extent. If very much ease is wanted in trousers it is very absurd to angle the seat unnaturally; better infuse a little more size, a little more fork or take out a large cut behind. Increas- ing the seat angle only produces discomfort, pressure and creases; because, in angling the seat, the room in effect is not produced in straight lines, whereas the motions of the figure travel in straight lines, either in a horizontal or perpendicular direction. The secret of ease in the act of sitting down is to get the creases under the ball of the seat in straight lines (across) and identically the same as those found on the body in that locality. We also meet with systems where the at- tachment of the undersides to the topsides is so outrageous that shifting the balance marks and sundry little dodges have to be resorted to to make the trousers at all presentable. There is no earthly reason why this should be done if the draft is maintained in the square, so as to allow the material to enjoy the same privi- lege of being square. erect .\nd forward figures. Very little attention will set this matter right, as the departure in either of these fig- ures is not so great as might be supposed. If the figure stands very erect, shorten the under- sides a little. This can be done by taking out a small wedge in the centre of seat to nothing at side seam and this will remove the surplus material pressed back by the figure overshoot- ing the normal. A small wedge might also be inserted in the centre of fly line to nothing at the side seam to provide for the conve.xity of the figure in front (which would be about two-thirds, ap- parently, or not quite so much as the concave behind). Ah! Here is an admission, as the letting in of a wedge in front is very near in effect to the receding front. In fact, to recede the front and give more length to the top of fly line would be about one and the same thinar. But it does not follow th?.t because the front waist is prominent that the receding front may be always indulged in. The receding front or the fact of letting a wedge in the centre of fly line is only admissible, in my opinion, in special cases, and that is when the perpendicular or centre of gravity is overshot in compaiison with the normal figure. In a case like this (which applies either way, as the forward figure must receive the very opposite treatment to the erect) the lines of the figure are bent out of the straight, wliich allows the lines of the draft to be bent also. the advantages or disadvantages of the forward or receding front. In discussing this question we may particu- larly observe that many cutters are in favor of the former theory, while others assert the ad- vantages of the latter. We might further ob- serve that unless corresponding changes re- solve the two into one and the same thing, that it is practically impossible to make out that both these extremes are right, if the forward theory is correct, then the receding theory is not. On the other hand, if the receding theory is right the other must give way, and if by some change or other in the construction both ideas have resolved themselves into neither theory. The notion, therefore, of the forward or receding front is nothing but a notion, from the fact that both supposed methods produce a fit. Every figure we meet with can be contained in the square, i.e., so far as the boundaries are concerned in the process of construction, but the lines contained in the figure may become bent, as in the case before mentionetl; when, in my opinion, the effect of both a forward and receding front may be admitted, but then the introduction had better be done in the form of wedges after the draft is drawn. By this means for stooping or erect figures the changes required are kept more under control than to recede or forward the front, because by insert- ing or taking out a wedge, the effect is pro- duced all at once, while by the other process the top of fly has to be raised or lowered and it may be that the receding portion and the raising or lowering portion may not be exactly In Trousers Cutting. 21 equal as it would be in the case of a wedge. My opinion is that unless the figure be either stooping or erect, or when the waist exceeds the seat, we must confine ourselves to ordinary construction. But should the waist exceed the seat, i. e., the boundary lines of the draft (which we limit to the seat), the extra size must be introduced, but it does not follow that the introduction should take place in the front any more than at the side. If it were all put on the front the garment when on would get a share of the surplus forced back to the detri- ment of the same, which would be considered a defect. Certainly the shape of the fly line should follow the form at that point, but never give to the front more than its share of the ex- cess of waist over the seat. THE EKFECT OF A TOO FORWARD FRONT. (See Diagram lo.) In looking at this diagram it will be seen that line X X represents the front boundary of the figure and the dotted lines in front of the fly line is what we term a forward front. Now if extra material is placed in front of X as at O it will be seen that it exceeds the boundary line and in marking off the topside of waist we are obliged to reduce the same amount at "O." The effect of this would be, as the fork is held fast at C with a corresponding square at B, point O would be forced back again to X, i. e., the material would be com- pelled to go to X on account of the waist be- ing made the same size as the figure and a de- fect would be seen at point E, or midway the length of the line forced back. This defect would appear as if a wedge required taking out, but if the waist of the trousers was made up larger than the size of the figure the surplus material would remain in front of X, and the person wearing them would be able to look down inside the curve of the bottom of the fly. I have often seen the defect when one could take up a handfull of stuff in front without moving the trousers in any other part, but as I have said before, this could only be done when too large in the waist. On the other hand, if the waist is made up the right size the defect must appear at E. When the waist exceeds the seat the result is quite different as the form goes over the line at X without a correspond- ing change at C, which probably remains the same; the consequence is as the figure goes forward at X the material must go with it and to give relief to the fly line gradually to the fork we must raise the top of fly line at X above the square at "O" as every trousers cutter knows. If this were not done the pressure would be too great in the centre of fly line. THE EFFECT OF A TOO RECEDING FRONT. Just the reverse would happen in effect if the front receded, as in Diagram g, from X to O, there being no necessity to recede the front beyond the boundary line X. But if the front was receded, as from X to O, a pressure would be felt at A with a surplus of material at M, which would form a very bad defect in small waisted figures. It has often been urged that if the front is forwarded in large waisted figures it ought to be receded on the same principle, in very small waisted ones. There is not, however, much reason in such a statement because the exten- sion of the one, and the depression of the other are not identical, because the greater depres- sion does not happen in the same locality as the greatest extension. Now there are one or two ways in which we must consider the advantages or disad- vantages of the forward and receding front in relation to large and especially prominent waisted figures. I think the question is chiefly considered when this is the case. In both pro- cesses there is an advantage and a disadvan- tage. The question only remains whether the effect produced is to be for comfort or appear- ance. I wish to lay particular stress upon these two requirements, as neither process will pro- duce the same result. In the case of large waisted and prominent figures to forward the front would give the smartest appearance in standing, but in this process there would be a defect at P2, in the form of a little surplus material and which is all the more apparent because in large waisted figures the hips are flatter than in ardinary figures, but, of course, this would be regulated bo the amount forwarded. On the other hand if absolute comfort was the first consideration 22 Defects and Remedies I should certainly recommend the receding front (see diagram g.) because in receding the front from X to O it more than takes that amount from the boundary of the figure being in advance of the construction line of seat. Therefore in making up the topside waist the same amount (together with excess) would have to be carried to "O" that the front was receded and the effect when on, (that is when O was forced back to X as the figure would go beyond X, and especially if top of fly-line was raised at the same rate as in the forward front) would be that the material would be forced down the fly-line, the climax being reached in the center of the line, with a corresponding pressure at A. It is here that we find a greater advantage in the receding over the forward because in the forward front process on account of the hips being flat at E the surplus material thrown there appears to a disadvantage, while in the case of the receding process, the very fact of the hips being flat, relieves the pressure that would otherwise in ordinary figures be a defect in the locality of A. Therefore in summing up these two impor- tant considerations we must first discover whether in the process of construction we are to aim at <'Mect or comfort. I have endeavored to give both these points impartial consideration leaving the result to those who read these pages as Hieij then can decide, perhaps to their own satisfaction, which of the two processes they would prefer to adopt The necessary changes to be observed in providing for the pcculiurHii's und dcjurniilics of cusiomers. In discussing this question, to which I have before alluded, we can only arrive at one con- clusion, and that is, as the altitude and motion of one man is similar to that of another man, there cannot possibly exist any very serious departures from a properly constructed method of producing a well cut trousers. If we take the average of general construc- tion, we shall find that the peculiarities in fig- ures are not so very extraordinary, and de- formities are even more rarely encountered. If we take a very careful survey of the order book we shall find that the situation of peculi- arities, and even deformities, exist to a greater extent in the imagination of the client himself than could be traced in the pages of that book. VVe have certainly to deal with a variety of form and size, but even then there is a certain amount of symmetry and proportion associated with every figure. If it were not so the eye would become distracted and the outline of every form would convey to the mind the im- pression of deformity. The necessary changes therefore that are actually required in the construction of trous- ers for different forms are not so very exten- sive as we are sometimes led to believe. The greatest change is chiefly confined to the region of the seat anil fork. Either the seat to a given measure is prominent with correspond- ingly flat hips, or it is flat and poor with promi- nent hips. In the one case the fork measure would be greater, indicating where the change must take place, and in the other case the fork measure would be less indicating where the change must transpire. This can hardly be called a peculiarity as it is so very commonly met with in daily practice, and is simply a pro- cess to give and take. If the fork is dimin"shed the hip room must be extended and the total seat measure made up. 1 he difference of ex- cess of waist, etc., over or under the seat measure I have already dealt with under the heading of forward and receding front. In the event of deformities one cannot lay down any definite rule of treatment because we cannot tell what the character of the defect would be, but if the cutter were master of the principle of construction the defect, when pre- sented to him, would suggest the remedy. We might go on forever imagining possi- ble deformities, but it would be useless to do so, from the fact, that when a deformity did really present itself, the characteristics of the same would be altogether different to the one suggested. In dealing with the last question, viz: defects and remedies, I can only urge that defects are often more apparent than real. What I mean is, that we might go on forever enumerating a series of defects when really their origin might be traced to one cause and in just proportion to the cause would be the extent of the defect. Defects of any nature may safely be dated In Trousers Cutting. 23 from wrong construction, and m just propor- tion to the notation of the correct principles of construction we get a corresponding amount of error. I'RINCIl'AL OnjECTIONS. The principal objections we meet with in a finished trousers, are a sense of pressure and general discomfort with a visible amount of misplaced material, known as creases, and in these two words, idiscomfort and creates, is the sum total of defects in trousers. Yet, al- though the sense of error is contained in these two words there are no more than two or three causes which bring them into e.xistence. My opinion in writing upon this question is that it is a great mistake and a waste of time, to suppose that any real good can be supplied from a dissertation on defect-^ in trousers and their remedies. The great secret we have to trace is quite of an opposite character. We know that defects e.xist and a great many of them, and we also know that perfection incut- ting does not exist. Therefore our attention should not be directed to what we are already acquainted with, but it should be directed to the discovery of what we do not know, rather than to invite a return of those errors that have existed all along. In order to carry out the conditions of the essay I shall endenvor to trace the cause and to suggest a cure for the chief defects in trous- ers, for as I have mentioned before, the num- erous defects apparently nu.t with are the re- sult of jjractically the same cause, since the cause being of a greater or lesser magnitude produces in turn defects of more or less im- portance. There is also the fact that there are but two conditions in trouser cutting, the right way and the wrong way. The right way would suggest perfect construction and the other a general I defect. HOUSE SHOE IKEASKS. One of the greatest defects in trousers (as shown in diagram 6) is the presence of a num- ber of creases, known as horseshoe creases, taking diagonal directions, the situation being at the bac k of the leg from the seat down to below the knee. This defect arises from a too wide angled seat with too much openness in ; the underside leg. The remedy would be to ! cut a straighter seat line and a closer under- side leg, with perhaps a shade more fork. If the alteration is required to be made in the garment or on the pattern proceed as sug- gested in diagram 6; the dotted lines being the alteration. The second defect of importance is a sense of pressure and general discomfort when bend- ing the knee or in sitting and stooping; with a series of creases from the center of fork down past the knee at the same time the trousers being prevented from going clean up into the fork. This defect is represented in diagram 5. The cause of this very common defect is too little fork room or too small a diameter. The remedy would be as shown in diagram 7, the dotted lines suggesting the curve. The third defect is a pressure of the trous- ers on the calf (see diagram II) with a series of creases as shown across the leg. The cause of this defect is too short a topside, probably owing to the attitude of the figure. The rem- edy for this defect would be to open the pat- tern at B and let in a wedge to nothing at side. Some say that the wedge should be let in at A but this IS an error; because if let in at A the effect could not go beyond B as the fork is a fixed point and the material will square itself in a line with the fork. If on the other hand the wedge is let in at B just below the square of the fork the effect will be felt all down the leg and the defect will disappear. Others have suggested that ihe backs should be shortened to relieve the fronts but this method cannot effect a cure as more length is required in front which could not be introduced by simply short- ening the backs. These really are the three important de- fects caused by wrong construction, together of course with a too open or too close cut. All other defects mainly belong to the same causes, some being more a^jparent than others. The true remedy for defect must after all lie in construction, and to this end our atten- tion should be given, rather than to waste time in hunting up aefects that have existed for ages. In concluding this essay I may say that my aim has been to give a plain, straightforward reply to the questions laid down rather than to give an elaborate and high Hown treatise with out any real practical value, and I would urge a reformation in construction, worked up to, by experiment which could be managed and car- ried on, successfully I believe, by the united efforts of the whole of the Custom Cutters and Foremen Tailors' Societies. In Trousers Cutting. Djlt.'il LiuL-s will euro Creases lu Di:l. 5 26 Defects and Remedies 28 Defects and Remedies WPPF_VAO\Y.. W\\r\or Oe^ec\:s Q^od F^emedves. 1. Creases across top of thigh. Too small in the fork, cut too close or drawn in when sewing leg seam. 2. Surplus material in the lap. Too straight and short in seat angle. Crook the seat; let out side seam same amount, and if possible take out a larger cut behind. 3. Side seams comingtoo far over on to the boot Close the under side legs. 4. Too much loose cloth at back of trousers. Give more diameter across the seat and let out side seam same amount. 5. Creases below the knee. Generally from insufficient room in the body. Give more for room or open the topsides a bit more. 6. Loose stuff under the knee and creases over the knee. Straighten leg seam, take off same amount at side seam at knee and give a wider seat angle. 7. Bagging at the knees and pressure from outside of knee when sitting down. Too little seat room and too small a fork. Give more room at both places. 8- Horseshoe creases are formed by the un- derside being too long for the topside. Shorten undersides and stretch and shrink under the knees, or they may be caused by the underside being cut too open; reduce at side seam, adding wh:it is taken off at under leg seam. 9. Trousers standing away from boot behind. Trousers cut too close or badly made up at the bottom and perhaps too hollow in the leg seams. 10. Trousers tight in the fork. Too little diameter in seat; give more room at fork points. 11. Trousers apparently too short when made up to measure, (a) Too little hip room. (b) Too hollow at back of seat, (c) To straight and short a seat. 12. Why do defects appear in trousers at all? Firstly — Because when excessive, the construction is bad throughout. Secondly — Because by the motions and angles, peculiar to the body, creases arise from the fact of the trousers or covering being larger than the legs to be covered, and the fact of the material being larger and in excess of the figure the angles and lines in the material (caused by the motions of the body) are longer in proportion to the figure and not being the same size and attached to the figure, the extensions are greater to the extent of the difference in the size of material and the size of the figure. THE EXCELSIOR METHOD IN PRACTICE. The question has often been asked me why I do not use a thigh measure? I answer: Be- cause I claim the seat bears a closer relation to the crotch quantity than the thigh. When I find a gentleman with a flat inside thigh and a flat seat with large hip-joints, I cut the crotch one size smaller and add that quantity, or one size, on back parts at dotted line as represented in Diagram i. For example: If the seat measures 37, I cut it 36 fork and add the one-half inch at seat as above referred to in Diagram i. "W w ~w The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 29 The Custom Cutter - Fashion Review With monthly and semi-annual lithograph plates is the best technical journal in the United States. It con- tains the latest information on trade topics and articles, etc., by our best authors, together with the latest styles and reports by our European correspondents. )UDT DUH [ \W P SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: Journal With Plate $6. 00 Journal Alone 3 00 CO., Pulilisk'i's, Cliicaiio, 111. 30 The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. The Excelsior Block Patterns. We have no hesitancy in saying they are the best block patterns now on the market. They have been corrected during years of experience at the cutting board. ^Ve could give many letters testifying to their value and correctness, but prefer our patrons to test them for themselves. SAMPLE PATTERNS SENT FREE OF CHARGE. PRICE LIST: D. B. Frocks (Prince Albert) from ^^ to 43, 1 1 sizes, $io.oo; half set, 6 sizes, $5.50 Cutaway I'rocks, 3 or 4 button; from t,t, to 43, 1 1 sizes, 10.00; half set, 6 sizes, 5.50 Sacks, S. IJ from 32 to 42, 1 1 sizes, 10.00; half set, 6 sizes, 5-50 Fly Front Overcoats, S. B from 35 to 45, 1 1 sizes, 1 2.00; half set, 6 sizes, 6.50 Vests, S. B from ^^ to 43, 1 1 sizes, 5.50; half set, 6 sizes, 3.00 Trousers, from Waist from 28 to 43, 15 sizes, g.oo; half set, 8 sizes, 5.00 $56.50 $31.00 One Full Dress Coat Pattern, size 36 or 38, i .00 i .00 One D. B. Sack Coat Pattern, size 35 or 37, 1.00 i.oo One D. B. Sack Overcoat Pattern, size 37 or 39 1.50 1.50 One Full Dress Vest Pattern, size 35 or 37 75 .75 $60.75 $35-25 Special cut patterns, all body coats, $1.00; overcoats, $1.50. Trousers and Vest, 75 cents each, cut from heavy manilla paper, and delivered to express company office in Chicago. The full amount must in all cases accompany the order, or they can be sent C. O. D. if half the amount accompanies the order. Special patterns sent by mail. Address all letters and make ajll orders payable to THE ROBERT PHILLIPS CO., Weareprepnrwltociit allstylpsof ratterns CT-JTCl^rT^ TT T TATOTQ for ladies' or BWitlomenV wt.ar. *^XliL/^vaU, 1 J_i J_iliMU10. The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 31 THE CUSTOM GUTTER CUTTING SCHOOL Is not Excelled by any School in America. Receive personal instruction from the Author of the Excelsior Systems, daily. The rates are as follows: The Custom Cutter Cutting School. Instruction given daily (except Sundays) from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Evening classes when necessary. TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION PAYABLE IN ADVANCE: To rrnctiral Taitors, : : : $IO0.O0 To Cutters Dcsiriiif/ to Change Syntenis, : 50.0tt To Cutters Desirinff to C/idiif/e Sijstrms, for Coats. : '-io.Ott To Cutters Desiring to C/iaiif/e Si/stenis, for t'ests, : : JO.Ott To Cutters Itesiriiif/ to Change Si/stenis, for Pants, J5.O0 Luilies- Garments, : : : 5O.0O Special Itates on applieation to those desiring prirnte instruction of frinn one hour to one week. THE ROBERT PHILLIPS CO., PROPRIETORS,