F 1961 .U59 ^°Py ^ REPORTS UNDER CIRCULAR NO. 10. DIVISION OF CUSTOMS AND INSULAR AFFAIRS. PUERTO RICO, EMBRACING THE REPORTS OF BRIG. GEN. GEO. W. DAVIS, m;ilix^ry g-overnor. REPORTS ON THE DISTRICTS OF ARECIBO, AGUADILLA, CAYEY, HUMACAO, MAYAGUEZ, PONCE, SAN JUAN, VIEQUES, AND THE SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. ARRANGED BY TOPICS. "WA.E, DEFA-RTnyEENT, DIVISION OF CUSTOMS AND INSULAR AFFAIRS. 1899. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1900. REPORTS UNDER CIRCULAR NO. 10. DIVISION OF CUSTOMS AND INSULAR AFFAIRS. PUERTO RICO, EMBRACING THE REPORTS OF BRIG. GEN. GEO. W. DAVIS, REPORTS ON THE DISTRICTS OF ARECIBO, AGUADILLA, GAYEY, HUIACAO, MAYAGUEZ, PONCE, SAN JUAN, VIEQUES, AND THE SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. ARRANGED BY TOPICS. / u DIVISION OFOUSTOM^ -i.NP' INSULAR AFFAIRS. 1899. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1900. ■pe*''' 53696 / Circular No. 10. ) WAR DePARTMENT, DlVISION OF Customs AND - -j~^ 7 • / ur l nc -lonn Insular Affairs. ) Waslungton, MaTCll 25, 1899. Department commanders in Cuba, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines will report upon present civic conditions in their respective depart- ments, and while including the subjects outlined herein will not nec- essarily confine investigations to these limits, the object of this circular being to obtain the latest reliable information, statistical and other- wise, upon th-e existing state of the inhabitants and the natural and commercial resources of the islands. In order to cover the territory in each military department, regi- mental commanders will be required to select one or more competent line officers from each camp or post according to the amount of work to be accomplished. Reports will be forwarded with the least practicable delay, consistent with thoroughness, through military'' channels and together with reports of regimental, brigade and department commanders will be transmitted by governors-general direct to this office. Officers making reports will be guided by the following outline of subjects: Geographical and physical features, accompanied by avail- able maps, prints, and surveys; climate, rainfall, and temperature; mineral resources and mines operated ; extent of forests and forest trees; character and products of soil; public lands, how held, entered, etc.; state of improvements; plantations and farms; principal crops, agricultural and horticultural, with markets and value, if known; inland transportation facilities ; railroad stocks, where held ; railroads, number of miles constructed and proposed; available water power; population, known or estimated, character of; available vital statis- tics ; private and x)ublic schools ; state of education. Cities and towns ; available maps and prints; post-offices; improvements; street rail- waj^s; electric lighting; telephone and telegraphic communication; water supply; bonded and other indebtedness; sanitary conditions; manufactures ; business enterprises ; investment companies and banks ; church property; missions and missionaries; prof essions represented ; together with general observations as to opiDortunities for investment. Department commanders will include, in addition to a resume of the foregoing subjects, a general discussion of the civil administra- tion of affairs; civil officers with duties and salaries; politics and political parties; administration of justice ; system of land tenure and conveyances; taxation, assessment and collection of; exchange and currency, and will make such suggestions and recommendations for reform as will in their opinion promote the general welfare and advancement of the inhabitants. G. D. Meiklejohn, Acting Secretary of War. 3 Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2011 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress littp://www.arcliive.org/details/puertoricoembracOOunit CO]NDITIO]:^S IN PUERTO RICO. Headquarters Department of Puerto Rico, San Juan, September 19, 1899. Assistant Secretary of War, Washington, D. C. Sir: In compliance with the requirements of Circular No. 10, Divi- sion of Customs and Insular Affairs, dated March 25, 1899, I have the honor to transmit the reports of Capt. A. C. Macomb, district of Arecibo; Maj. F. W. Mansfield, district of Aguadilla; Capt. F. W. Foster, district of Cayey; Capt. C. E. Dentler, district of Humacao; Maj. Earl D. Thomas, district of Mayaguez; First Lieut. H. E. Eames, district of Ponce; First Lieut, James J. Hornbrook, district of San German; First Ljeut. A. C. Blunt, district of San Juan; Capt. Z. B. Vance, district of Vieques. I regret that these reports could not be sooner transmitted, but my time has been so constantly absorbed with a multituue of pressing daily duties that I have not been able to make the presentation. The following comments have been prepared by Maj. William A. Glassford, U. S. V. , and will also be found in my annual report to the Adjutant- General of the Armj^, dated August 15, 1899, and which I adopt as my own. Since this memorandum was prepared the island was visited by a storm of exceptional violence, which has devastated a large part of the same and has destroyed a large amount of property. The imme- diate effect is to render homeless and destitute a large number of human beings. The incidental effect is to curtail importations, there- fore the revenue. It is now a serious problem, the raising of revenues adequate to the maintenance of orderly government. The transition through which the island is passing, that is, the change of governmental methods from Spanish to American, was progressing satisfactorily, but the situation was vastly complicated by the destruction, in a few hours, of more than half the producing power of the people and their capacity for self-support for the time being. Very respectfully, Geo. W. Davis, Brigadier- General, Conmianding. CIVIC CONDITIONS. district of aguadilla. (See report on political parties and last part of report on vital statistics.) Captain Mansfield says : If all could get employment of course the condition of the masses would be improved. Just at present (May 30, 1899) the question of money exchange has much to do with the condi- tion of the working classes, for rates of exchange among the ignorant 5 6 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO are simply rates of robbery and extortion. I have sympathy and hojie for tlie people at large and believe they will be all right if furnished with the means of edncation (in its broadest sense) of all kinds and with proper instructors till they can furnish their own, and if, in the meantime the politicians of the old parties in the island are suppressed. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas, reporting without date (probably May or June, 1890) says: The xDopulation is increasing fast. In a few years this island will be overcrowded. No immigration from the adjacent islands should be allowed or encouraged. Only Americans should be permitted to come here and enter into business. All other classes, kinds and color should be excluded from this time forward. The present rates for labor are, to the mind of an American, ridicu- lously small. Da3^ laborers working ten hours per day have hereto- fore only been receiving from 37 to as high as 75 cents per day; 50 cents per day being the standard price, or it was until recently. I understand that the wages are being increased, that is, the laborers are demanding much or rather some money in advance of present prices, 75 cents a day or even as high as $1 in provincial money being asked. Recent orders limit the day's laboring work to eight hours all over the island. The people here are a hard-working class so far as my observation goes, board themselves, live on a mere mite and squander their mone}' as fast as earned. They are specially expert in working cane and tobacco lands and do excellently well in coffee and fruit cultivation. One can get plenty of laborers at any and all times, something over 1,000 being employed on the roads of the District alone. The tropical sun does not seem to affect them in any way and thej^ keep going the livelong day, always at work and never idle except on holidays and feast days when they never lift a hand no matter how urgent or how much danger there is to the crops. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt, under date of May 12, 1899, says : The people gen- erally are quiet and industrious; the climate is enervating, the ground almost self -producing; naturally the inhabitants are lazy and easy- going. The statistics show a small proportion of murders and crimes against women. Robbery and sneak stealing are common. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Yance reports: The civic conditions are decidedlj' bad although probably as good as might be expected, taking into consid- eration the fact that they still have to adhere to old Spanish obsolete laws and that they can not quite rid themselves of the Spanish idea that public office is for the benefit of the holders thereof instead of that of the people. They do not yet know how to govern themselves, and will not for a long time to come. The principal proprietors here with one exception are foreigners and though principally interested in the government of the island have no voice in it. The exception referred to has managed to have his own men elected to the council and all of his relatives to most of the municipal offices CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 7 and tlie other property owners claim that he is running everything in his own interest. With two exceptions there are no representative men on the council who are not related to or under some obligation to this proprietor. Two or three can not read or write. Some such situation as this can hardly be avoided until Congress passes some law for the government of the island and the people begin to show a proper public spirit. To illustrate the way public officials perform their duties, I will state the case of the town doctor here. He is employed by the town to look after the poor. His "looking after" consists of standing in the drug store and writing a prescription from the messenger's (father, mother, or whoever it may be) description of the symptoms without thinking of seeing the patient. Therefore, about the only care the sick poor get is that given by Dr. Le Compte, the post surgeon. Fortunately this is a very healthy island. A case of smallpox was reported in the vicinity and upon inquiry I found that this distinguished town doctor had sent what he calls his assistant (a nurse in the town hospital) to go and diagnose the case. I finally persuaded him to go himself. The police are of no account whatever but fortunately the people are docile and easy to manage as far as disorder is concerned. There are three different elements in the town, the Spaniards, the natives and about 1,000 English-speaking negroes who have been imported from the neighboring islands to harvest the sugar-cane crops. The Spaniards hate the natives and vice versa and they are both after the negro. The natives are lazj^ and indolent and will not work and do not want to see the negroes work. The latter are better laborers and more provident, though a good many of them are decidedly shift- less and liable to give trouble if not kept in hand. As I have said before the best element here is composed of foreign- ers and it is a pity some of them can not be ]3ut on the council as they show far more spirit and enterprise than the natives. The lower class of natives are ignorant, indolent and improvident, resembling very much the North American Indian vvithout his cour- age. They make a dollar and then stop work uiltil it is all gone. There is no lack of work here. The planters would give them all the work they wanted if they were at all reliable and would stick to it. As I have said above the former have to import negroes to harvest their crops. The conditions of the island of Culebra are about the same as they are in Vieques. GEOGRAPHICAL AND PHYSICAL FEATURES. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports : GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ISLAND AND GEOLOGY. Puerto Rico the most eastern and smallest of the Greater Antilles, lies some 60 miles east of Haiti, between the meridians of 65° 15' and 67° 15' west of Greenwich and the parallels of 17° 50' and 18° 45' N. General shape is a parallelogram, 95 hy 35 miles ; area, approximately 3,670 square miles, being 500 miles less than Jamaica and about 300 8 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. less than the State of Connecticut. The coast Hue is some 360 miles. Its outline presents the appearance of an almost geometrically regular parallelogram nearly three times as long as broad, with its four sides following" the four cardinal directions. Unlike Cuba, its sea line is but little indented ; its coast is generally low and possesses but few fringing reefs. It is essentially a mountainous country and has been likened to the soldier's campaign hat the crown being the uplifted center and the rim the coast plains. The central mountain region is cut and worn by the heavy rains, and only the extreme tenacity of its red clay soil has prevented its destruction. This mountain region constitutes some nine-tenths of the surface of the island. The whole island is practically an elongated and elevated sierra, surrounded by a narrow collar or dado of limestone hills, for- merly marginal marine incrustations which have been elevated. Viewed from the sea these mountains have a rugged and serrated aspect, consisting of numerous peaks and summits void of a definite crest line, rising' from a general mass whose steeply sloping sides are deeply corrugated by drainage- ways, so that they have the aspect of a wrinkled pocket handkerchief, a figure of description ascribed to Columbus in telling Queen Isabella of the Antilles. Their superfice has been etched by erosion into innumerable gabled lateral ridges (cuchillas), separated by deep V-shaped valleys. (From Geologist Hill.) The main watershed of the island extends generally east and west and lying, as it does, south of the center, the rapid slope is to the south and a more gradual descent to the north coast. This naturally gives the southern side short, rapid streams and the larger rivers to the northern slope. Another cause for this difference is that the prevailing wind being from the northeast, the greater rainfall is on the northern slope of the mountains. The geology of the island is very similar to and comparable with that of Cuba. Puerto Rico is the eastern extension of the Antillean uplift seen in Cuba and Santo Domingo. It was once the site of active volcanic work and the greater part of its mass is composed of igneous rock. Then subsidences of various durations occurred permitting the water sorting of much of its encircling limestone. The soil of the mountain areas is frequently a tremendously sticky red clay, formed from the decomposition of volcanic rock. The bottoms, the plains along the coasts, are generally alluvial near the mouths of rivers. In other cases they are formed by the decomposition of the lime rock. These two soils are dark brown or black, similar to the "black waxy" soil of Texas near Dallas. At present these plains are used altogether for sugar-cane and pas- ture lands. The more sandy soils are used for tobacco and such vegetables as the batata, a rather poor variety of the sweet potato. It is customary to say that the cofi'ee plant can only be profitably cul- tivated on the higher ground — say at an elevation of 500 feet. But in truth the whole island, plains and all, was given over to coflEee raising some years [ago], and only when the flood of Brazilian coffee broke the market were the plains again devoted to the cultivation of sugar cane and coffee banished to its present home, the steeply sloping lands of the interior. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO EICO. 9 Under the heading "Available Maps" Captain Macomb says: (1) Outline map of Puerto Rico published by the War Department, Adjutant-General's Office, 1899, scale 1/150,000 (about 2^ miles to 1 inch). This map is to be filled out by army officers. Coast to be corrected by Coast Survey, U. S.,and will be the only reliable map of the island. (2) "Island of Puerto Rico, New Territorv, U. S. A.," by J. M. Lago, 1898, printed by Colton, Oham & Co., New York. Scale about 2f inches to mile. This map has many inaccu- racies and omissions. Maps of the various towns are in course of preparation by me, but owing to the press of other business, not completed. A map of the town of Arecibo is submitted.^ It is a reduction of a large map on file in the Alcalde's office, originally made in 1867. An original map of the port and harbor is herewith submitted.^ It was made with cavalry sketching case and is not to be depended upon for accurate estimates. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports : The districts of Arecibo, Hatillo, Camuy, Quebradillas, and Isabela lie along the north coast in the order given from east to west. From the capital, San Juan, there extends westward along the coast a beau- tiful plain, varying in width from 2 to 5 miles. Just west of the town of Arecibo this plain becomes narrower and the wagon road and the railroad are pushed out along the coast. At the Camuy River the plain widens out slightly. East of Manati this plain is sandy and its surface is broken by occasional detached hills. But generalh'^ it is very fertile and given over to the cultiva- tion of sugar cane. Just west of Camuy the ground rises into a mesa or plateau that extends westward through Isabela and swings south through Agua- diUa. Through this entire plateau the formation is limestone. Its surface is rolling, but not broken, except where the Guajataca River breaks through, cutting a deep gorge and exposing the various strata. About 4 miles west of Camuy a gently sloping valley occurs and is utilized for the production of sugar cane. The plains are used for cane growing unless they are very sandy; the sloping ground slightly back from the sea for tobacco^ pasturage, bananas, and for small fruits. The steep limestone hills are not gen- erally used, though capable of producing coffee. The more sandy plains are used for the batata (a species of sweet potato), peanuts, cocoanut palms, and frequently for tobacco of a poor quality. Back of the hill barrier or plateau edge that forms the south limit of the coastal plain the limestone surface continues broken and irregu- lar, cut up by small valleys, until some 12 miles from the north coast the volcanic rock of the interior of the island is encountered. This rock has weathered into a soil tough and tenacious, generally of a red color, and is typical coffee land. Nevertheless it is capable of pro- ducing delicious fruits, and every coffee farm raises without cultiva- tion sufficient oranges, pineapples, mangoes, plantains, and bananas for home consumption. ^ Not received with report. " Not received with report at War Department. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. JURISDICTION OF ARECIBO. The district of Arecibo is a rich and fertile one, perhaps not second to any one in the island. Ljing as it does along the north coast, it receives the constant northeast breezes. It is divided centrallj^ by the great cut of the Rio Grande, which pours out its abundant waters over its rich coast plain, rendering the use of fertilizers unnecessary. This river gorge or valley forms a natural pass to the interior of the island, and is being examined with a view to constructing an electric railway from Arecibo»to Ponce via Utuado and Adjuntas. The Rio Grande receives from the southwest the river Tanama, which joins the main stream some 4 miles south of the town of Arecibo. From the east the Rio Arecibo, near the southern limit of the dis- trict, receives the Rio Limou and the Rio Caunilla. All these streams are of rajjid fall and furnish a never failing power. - West of Arecibo, in the Camuy district, is the Camuy River, another mountain stream, furnishing abundant water and i)ower. It rises southeast of ' Lares, flows northerly to the sea, cutting deeply through its limestone walls. Through a jpart of its course it passes under the unbroken limestone and becomes a lost river. Forming the boundary between the jurisdictions of Quebradillas and Isabela is the Guajataca River, another mountain stream of rapid fall and abundant flow. Generally these rivers flow through narrow valleys of steep descent, not affording much flat surface suitable for cane cultivation. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports: The boundaiy of the district (jurisdic- tion) of Aguadilla is as follows : Beginning at the mouth of the Gua- jataca River, in the northeast corner, proceed westerly 12 miles to a point near Borrinquen; thence southwesterly through the town of Aguadilla 14 miles to a point south of the village of Rincon ; thence 25 miles eastward by the Rio Prieto, just north of the village of Las Marias ; thence northwestwardly 20 miles to a point near Lares, and along the Guajataca River to place of beginning. The district contains between 250 and 275 square miles. The coun- try is mostly mountainous and hilly, especially in the interior. Some of the mountains rise to an elevation of 2,000 or more feet. Along the north coast the country is rolling and more or less open for 4 or 5 miles from the mountains to the sea. Along the west coast the Jiacao Mountains extend to the sea at and near Aguadilla, leaving little open country. The southwest section of the district, in the vicinity of the village <:>f Aguada, is more or less open and rolling. The northeastern, east- ern, and southeastern sections of the district are almost entirely mountainous. The Guajataca River, in the northeast, and the Cule- brina River, in the southwest, are the largest streams and have their sources in the vicinity of Lares. The Rio Prieto and Rio Blanco (the two main branches of the Anasco) also flow through the southeastern section of the district. There are several branches of the Culebriena and Guajataca, which have their sources in the vicinity of Lares. So that the eastern and southeastern portions of the district are Avell watered. This is not the case in the northern and northwestern sections, CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 11 where the country is wholly dependent upon rains and on a few wells, cisterns, and artificial pools. DISTRICT OP CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, reports: This district is mountainous, the highest mountains being about 2,500 feet above the sea. The city itself is about 1,100 feet above the sea. DISTRICT OP HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: The district of Humacao occupies the entire eastern end of the island. The coast line is very irregular, there being numerous small streams flowing into the ocean and a great number of arms of the sea indent- ing the land. There are several fairly good liarbors on the coast, nota- bly the one near Ceiba, where an arm of the sea from 1^ to 2 miles long and one-half mile wide, with deep water and surrounded by high and rock}^ hills, forms one of the best natural harbors on this coast. The entire district is very mountainous, the highest points of the Luquillo Mountains being in the northwestern part of this district, and the whole region is a succession of mountains and valleys. Available maps and prints. — There are not many, and it is extremely diflacult to obtain them. Many, if not the majority, of these, when obtained, are found to be incorrect in many of their details. DISTRICT OP MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas, without date, reports: Mayaguez is situated near the western extremity of the island of Puerto Rico and is the third city in importance of the island. The district of Mayaguez embraces a jurisdiction of nearly 30,000 inhabit- ants, mostly white, and comprises the terrane between the mountains of Cerro Gordo on the west and the Anasco Mountains on the north and east. This district extends from the west coast of the island to the head waters of the Culebrinas River, 6 miles west of Maricao and from the central plantation, "Corsica," on the north to the Royal Port (Puerto Real) near Cabo Rojo and Guanica bay on south. In this district are found streams (rivers), three principal ranges of mountains covered with an undergrowth of timber rising in altitude at different points from 600 to 800 feet above the sea level. It also comprises a large number of valleys (vegas) upon which are cultivated cane, rice, beans, and small fruit' in great abundance. The valleys are intersected by an innumerable nuniber of small streams, furnishing an abundant supply of fresh water' for industrial and agricultural purposes. The principal mountain ranges are the Aiiasco, Ilormigueros, Cerro Gordo and Cabo Rojo. The rivers are Aiiasco, Yaguez, Caiion, Estero, Rio Vigo, Rosario, Guanajibo, and Rio Grande, all of which increase in volume during the rainy season, lasting from June to and including October. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports: The territory embraced in this com- mand includes the jurisdictions of San German, Sabana Grande, Lajas, and Cabo Rojo, in the extreme southwest corner of the island; all are embraced in the judicial jurisdiction of San German. The country is mostty mountainous. One range of mountains runs from Cabo Rojo 12 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. to Sabana Grande in easterly direction. It varies in height from 200 to 700 feet. Another range runs from Maricao, in southeasterly direc- tion, toward Sahana Grande. It is somewhat higher than the above- mentioned range. The highest peak, northeast from San German, is called "Las Titas del Cerro Gordo." Between the two ranges is a valley, through which flows the Rio Grande, starting north from Sabana Grande and emptying into the sea about a mile south of Maj^aguez. On this river are situated the towns of San German and Sabana Grande. Another range of mountains is east of Sabana Grande, running from north to south. The west coast is mountainous. The south coast is low. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames, under date of May, 1899, says: The district of Ponce covers about one-third of the island of Puerto Rico and lies on the south coast a little west of the center and between the districts of Mayaguez on the west and Guayama on the east. It is very irregular in shape, having artificial boundaries, except on the south or coast line. It is, roughly speaking, about 20 miles broad and 45 miles long and contains about 900 square miles. The surface of the district is very diversified, .being generally flat near the coast and rising gradually toward the north. Here the surface is very rough and mountainous, but containing also deep and fertile valleys, which are highly cultivated. The two highest points in the district are Mounts Guilarte, 3,540 feet, and Soraanta, 3,231 feet, each of which is about 15 miles from the coast, and from their tops are seen the flnest views on the island, rendering the cities at their bases, Adjuntas and Aibonito, famous for their scenery. There are several good harbors in the district, the best three being at Playa de Ponce, Guanica, and Guayanilla, and of these Guanica has perhaps the best, being very deep and well sheltered, though not large. The district is traversed by many small streams rising in the moun- tains and flowing generally southward, some 12 or 18 miles, to the sea. The Rio Tallaboa, near Tallaboa and Penuelas; the Rio Portugues, near Ponce ; the Rio Coamo, near St. Isabel and Coamo, are probably the largest of these rivers and never go dry, as do many of the others during the dry season. The volume of water in even these is very variable, and when at their lowest stage it amounts to but very little indeed, while at their high- est stage they are great rivers, with all of the characteristics of typical tropical streams — sudden, devastating rises; muddy, drift-covered currents, that change in but a few hours to placid, clear-flowing brooks. DISTRICT OF SAN .JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports under date of May 12, 1899: The district to be covered b}^ this report is about 60 kilometers long by 20 kilometers wide, with elevations up to about 1,400 feet. It is bounded on the north by the ocean and on the other sides by other districts. The shore line, extending generally east and west, is mostly a sandy beach with little elevation above the sea. On the island of San Juan rocks of modern times appear with some coral formations, CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 13 and make a bluff, rising about 90 feet. Just west of the island of San Juan is the only break in the shore line, giving entrance to an extensive bay, affording a fine harbor. There is, of course, an eastern entrance to same bay, which is understood to have been used in early days; it is now shoal, but could be dredged to any depth. The other bays along the shore are merely open anchorages with good bottoms and smooth beaches, on which landings can be made bj^ lighters. Leaving the flats along the shore line and around San Juan Bay, the land rises in abrupt hills, deeply washed by the heavy rains, the river valleys here being narrow. Beyond this the valleys widen out again at a general elevation of about 300 feet, and the rivers, with many branches, rise in the hills near the southern line of the district. This section is the coffee district, and is very well watered and fertile. The rios (rivers) all flow to the north and are, except within a few miles of the shore, fordable at low water, but rise very quickly after rain. One of the noticeable features is the absence of forests on the hills. There are scattered groups of trees, but no continuous woods on anj' hills in this section, neither is there any growth of timber trees at any point. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports : This district consists of the islands of Vie- ques and Culebra and a few outlying keys. The former is about 21 miles in length by an average of 4|^ in width, containing 90 square miles, and has a poi)ulation of 5,000 or 6,000. Culebra, 20 miles north of Vieques, has about 40 square miles and 800 or 900 inhabitants. The adjoining islands are uninhabited and inconsiderable in size. In regard to geographical features, the country is mountainous, with few, if any, valleys or plains, but exceedingly fertile. The physical features of the island of Culebra are about the same as thej^ are in Vieques. CLIMATE AND RAINFALL. PUERTO RICO AS AN ISLAND. Major Glassford makes no report. Captain Macomb, in his report on Arecibo, speaking of the island, says: The wind being from the northeast, a greater rainfall is given to the northern slope of the mountains. This rainfall varies from 120 inches annually in the northeast corner of the island to probably 40 inches in the southwest. But the entire island is wet com]3ared with the United States, as, in addition to the rains, the mountains are fre- quently bathed in mists. Irrigation is practiced in the south, in the neighborhood of Ponce, where of late years, it is said, the rainfall has been decreasing. (The ditches one sees at every 15 feet in sugar-cane fields are not to bring water in, but to carry it off.) The Weather Bureau has established itself here and accurate notes on the general weather conditions will be forthcoming. The seasons in this evergreen island are not marked by decided changes in tem- perature, but by variations in the rainfall. 14 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO EICO. At present ouly such a general description can be given as follows: Month. January Rainfall. First half considerable: sec- ond half slight. Temperature. Remarks. February . March April May. June ... July August - Pleasant, cool High seas; season of the Norte; harbors — north coast— danger oils. Dry j Pleasant.-- -.- Very dry . - - - - . ! do First halt dry; second half j do. slight rain. Cooled by showers, warm. /Warmest months of \ the year. Warm Considerable showers. Not much rain rain; heavy September.. October November .- December--. First half slight; second half considerable. Bluch rain j Pleasant Heavy rains I do . . . .do - Cool -do. -do High seas; season of the Norte; harbors — north coast — dangerous. Everj^ month has occasional hot days, hut these days are only exhausting to those who must be out working. The breeze from the sea is almost unfailing. Nights sufficiently cool for comfort (and generally for a blanket) are the almost invariable rule. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Ca]3tain Mansfield reports: As there are or have been no instru- ments for measuring the rainfall, there is no means of knowing exactly what it is, except that during the period from January 1, 1899, to May 31, 1S99, 8.13 inches fell at Isabela; tliey have had a rain gauge there since January 1, 1899. This covers the drj- season, and is in a dry locality, where drought prevails to a great extent at some seasons. However, from my observations, I do not think it can be less than 60 inches per annum. The rainy season is from May to November, although it rains some at other seasons. The rain generally falls between 12 o'clock noon and 5 p. m. and is usually very heaw. It probably does not rain more than two-thirds as much at Aguadilla as at other places, espe- cially in the interior, where tlie rains are very heavy. The mean temperature is 77° F. I have myself observed the tem- perature at Aguadilla for some months. The temperature is lower in the eastern part of the district than elsewhere, on account of the greater elevation. The climate is comj)aratively healthy and salubrious, and during a nine months' stay in this locality I have had no occasion to notice any unusual amount of sickness — no more than would have occurred in a town of the same size in our country under ordinary conditions, but from different causes. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster reports : The climate is pleasant and eciuable, the highest temperature for the last two months (report is dated June 28, 1899) being 91°, the lowest 62°, and the average 7<3°; the rainfall for the months of Mav and June to date being 17.5 inches. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 15 DISTRICT OP HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: The climate is warm, the thermometer standing at 80° in the shade in February and S^° in the middle of May. Along the entire seacoast the heat is tem- pered by cool easterly winds, which blow almost incessantly along the seashore and among the hills. No record of rainfall or of tempera- ture has been made at this post. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report without date, as follows : The climate is very fine for a trojDical one. Cool breezes and daih^ rains moderate the excessive midday heat, causing comfortable nights, rather cool than otherwise. The ocean breeze is also an important factor in the daily meteorological calculations. There is not any way of ascertain- ing the changes in temperature for a number of years, no records hav- ing been kept. The rainfall is excessive during the rainy season, nearty every afternoon ; the rains frequently pouring in torrents, as though every cloud in the heavens was sending its waters to the same localitj'. No accurate account of the rainfall for each year has been kept. If it has for this district, I could not find it. The alcalde of Mayaguez, speaking of that jurisdiction, says in a supplement to Major Thomas's report: Its climate is mild. The rainy season generally lasts nine months, the rainfall amounting in some years from 2.10 to 2.20 meters (82.68* to 86.62 inches) and in other years from 1.50 to 1.70 meters (59.05 to 66.93 inches). SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hoxnbrook reports : The climate is trojjical, moderated, liowever, by a fresh breeze. No records are available in regard to rainfall and temperature. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : There are many kinds of climate at the same period of the year in different parts of the district; distance from the coast, with its consequent increase of altitude, determining the climate of any particular point, but the year is commonly divided into two seasons, the wet and the dry, which are, roughly speaking, synchronous with the summer and winter of the IJnited States. The wet, or rainy, season extends commonly from May 1, gradually increasing in violence until about the middle of September, and then decreasing more rapidh^ until about December 1. At Ponce during the dry season, or from December to May, the air is very dry and hot during the daj'time, while the nights are cool and pleasant. The excessive amount of moisture in the atmosphere dur- ing the rainy season makes the really moderate temperature seem verj^ much greater, and it is during this period that most of the sickness occurs, and, the climate is particularly hard on those not acclimated. The maximum temperature of Ponce ranges from 80° in the winter to 95° in the summer, while that of Adjuntas or Aibonito ranges from 70° to 80° ; but with this decrease in temperature comes also increase of rainfall and humidity of atmosphere, so that the days seem as hot as in Ponce, while the nights seem much cooler. 16 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO, There are no statistical records from which the amount of rainfall can be ascertained, but at Juana Diaz, which has an average rainfall for the district, it is estimated to be about 60 inches annually. It is much less than this at Ponce, probably not more than 25 inches, if as much as that, while at Aibonito it rains nearly every day in the year, and the rainfall is nearer 100 inches than the 60 inches of Juana Diaz. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports: The climate is subtropical, two seasons, the dry and the wet, with a variation of about 10° F. between the means for July and January. San Juan has an average mean temper- ature of 84° F. in summer and about 73° in winter. The country generally is cooler, but along the shore west of San Juan it is reported hotter. The rainy season, May to November, means daily heavy and continued rains. The dry season is not absolutely dry, as in the San Joaquin Valley, but has occasional rains. As a result, the crops are almost continuous, and even under the present imperfect cultivation are very large. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports : The rainy season of the island extends from May to the latter part of September. There is no record of the amount of rainfall ijrevious to January [1899]. During January, February, and March, 1899, the average was 2.9 inches per month. There are also no records of the temperature previous to January, but since that time it has been: Maximum mean temperature: Januarj^, 78.07°; February, 83.07°; March, 81.03°. Minimum mean: January, 70.05°; February, 68.05°; March, 68°. On the island of Culebra there is no cistern large enough to supply the inhabitants with water, and sometimes during the dry season they have to send over to the island of Vieques for water. MINERAL RESOURCES AND MINES OPERATED. PUERTO RICO AS AN ISLAND. Major Glassford makes no report. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports: No mines in district. Coal is reported near Aguadilla-Moco road near latter town; said to be iine coal; not inspected. Various deposits of bat guano reported in large caves, which are not unusual in limestone plateau south of Isabela and Quebradillas. Also phosphatic rock in Isabela district. DISTRICT OP AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports: Of mines there are none, but it is believed that there is coal in the vicinity of Moco and San Sebastian, and some suppose copper and iron may be found. Calc spar and lime- atone abound. There are no renorts of other minerals. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. ' 17 DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Cajjtain Foster reports, under date of June 28, 1899, as follows: The district has no known mineral resources except building and limestone. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: There are two mines, one of iron and one of copjDer, both prospecting and develop- ing, worked by one Mr. Arguesso. There are also four more mines, two of copper and two of gold, situated in Naguabo and Luquillo. This part of the island is, without any doubt, the most important part for mineral resources. In the towns of Luquillo and Fajardo, up to this date, the poor people of the country make a living by washing- gold picked out of the river. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report (without date) as follows : There are no mines, so far as known, in this district; possibly future prospecting may lead to the discover}^ of valuable gold mines, as it is well known as a fact that mineral exists in paying quantities in certain localities of the island. The river Yaguez, which divides the town of Maj'a- guez in two parts, was at one time the locality where gold was found, its sands yielding gold in considerable quantities. But none is now found and there is now no indication of the existence of placer min- ing. Copper, iron, and coal mines are found on the island, not, how- ever, in this district. The alcalde of Mayaguez, referring to that jurisdiction, says in a supplement to Major Thomas's report : Within the jurisdiction of Mayaguez there are no mines, although some carbonates of iron are supposed to exist. The alcalde of Cabo Rojo, speaking of that jurisdiction, in a sup- plement to the report of Major Thomas, says: Mines — None of any kind have so far been discovered, although it is assumed they do exist ; also coal and sulphur. The salt pits are very i^roductive when windmills can be used for raising the water. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : Mineral resources are very poor and not developed. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports (prior to May 12, 1899): There are no mines operated in the district, although it is intended to open large deposits of phosphates which are known to exist on an island south of Ponce, as soon as the necessarj^ machinery can be brought from the States. Owing to a Spanish prohibition no mines have been developed in the district, but near Ponce and on the sur- face are large deposits of pyrites, claimed to be auriferous, although this claim has never been investigated. Claims are also made of deposits of iron, copper, and gold, but these claims have never been substantiated. (Speaking of the city of Ponce) — The largest if not the only deposit of phosphates on the island is at its very door, on Muerto Island, at the harbor entrance. 18 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports: There seem to be no mineral deposits in this district and no mines operated. I heard of copper in the hill regions, but the outcropping rock gives no indication of it. The want of iron and coal means very limited manufacturing interests. Corosal and Ton Alta. — At Corosal copper has been found in small quantities. Improved mining facilities might develop paying quan- tities, particularly as copper is daily becoming more valuable in electrical matters. EXTENT OF FORESTS AND FOREST TREES. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports : No forests in these districts. Scattering trees through districts on plateau, generally small. Native woods — generally in direction of Utuado — aceitillo, maga iiegra, hortegon, very hard. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Major Mansfield reports : There is some timber, but not a great deal, and most building material is brought from the United States. About 33 per cent of the country is wooded or covered with bushes and trees of second growth. Trees fit for timber are the capa sabano, capa j)rieto-guaraguao, roble, algarrobo, granadillo, laurel, guama, mamey sagua, diguerillo, and others. Considerable lumber is manufactured from the trees named. I have not seen a lumber or saw mill of any kind in the district, and lumber is manufactured by hand. There is plenty of firewood, which varies somewhat in prices, but usually sells at 13 per cord, American mone3'. I have seen no stoves in use any- where, and think they should be introduced as an economical and hygienic measure. Most of the woodland and such timber as there is is in the southeastern section of the district. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Cai^tain Foster reports : The hills, when uncultivated, are covered with a growth of small forest trees, principally valuable for firewood. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler reports : The forests are very few and scattered, and the lumber obtained is not of the best quality. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Fames reports : There are no extensive forests in the dislrict, it being largely under cultivation. There are, however, many individual trees of original forest growth, such as mahoganj^, ebonj^, lignum-vitfB, cedar, and tachuelo and ausubo, both of the latter being valuable cabinet woods. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 19 Tachuelo is somewhat heavier than ebony, has the general appear- ance of mahoganj^ but much stronger and of greater crnsliing and tensile strength. It is used mostly for Avood requiring large sticks, because of its hardness and the difficulty of working with it, it being impossible to drive a nail of anj^ moderate size into a piece of this wood. Most of the wood used in building is imported pine or spruce and comes largelj^ from Norway. It commands a large price, though usually inferior to the same woods from the United States. Pine "thirds" that could be bought in the States for 18 per thousand feet sell here for 835, Puerto Rican^currency, or about $20 gold. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports : The forest and forest trees are found along the base and sides of the mountains and what would be called the "foothills," not extensive or of sufficient quantity or in a convenient locality to cause more than a iDassing thought as to the formation of an industry devoted entirely to the milling, cutting, and marketing of native timber as an investment, permanent or temporary. Near Cabo Rojo all the native woods can be seen at a small cane (walking stick) manufactory, hand work entirely. This is the principal walk- ing-cane industrj- of the island. Many exquisite specimens can be purchased very cheaply. The native woods are as follows : Ausubo, capa bianco, capa prieto, oak, laurel, juniper, lignum-vitse, ucar, cedro, moco, coco and royal palms, mariccio, maguey, palo santo, and several other varieties, some extremely hard and brittle, others soft and pliable. Houses constructed entirely of native wood, brought down from the mountains by ox carts to Mayaguez, last a number of years, and, upon examination, now seem apparently as solid as the day they were built, fifty j^ears ago. The handling of native wood for building purposes would not be profitable ; again, it would be a hard matter to obtain it in any quantity or the land upon which it grows. The alcalde of Mayaguez, speaking of that jurisdiction, says, in a supplementary report submitted by Major Thomas : It possesses hand- some though not extensive forests, such as mangoes, algarrobos, jaguas, jacanas, guamcis, aguacates, jobos, I'lcares capaes, aceitillos, and many others which are suitable for building purposes and for fuel. The alcalde of Cabo Rojo, in a report concerning that jurisdiction, submitted b}' Major Thomas as a supplement to his report, says: There is not enough woods in this jurisdiction for building purposes, biit for cabinetwork it can be found in sufficient quantity, such as capa, ucar, aceitillo, and others. DISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : There are about 2,079 acres of forest in San German; 5,000 in Sabana Grande, 569 in Lajas, and 400 in Cabo Rojo. The following are the principal trees found here : Second- class mahogany, cedar, satinwood, ausuba, caracolillo, maga, azucar, ramon, quiebra-hacha, raj^o. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports: One of the noticeable features is the absence of forests on the hills; there are scattered groups of trees, 20 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. but no continuous woods on any hills in this section; neither is there any growth of timber trees at any point. The many varieties are all rough, knotted, and crooked, of little commercial value. CAROLINA. The absence of any forests in these sections is very noticeable; large trees are scattered around ; there is no regular forest growth. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports: There are^no forests to speak of on the island (of Vieques), the only timber of any mercantile use being a species of hard wood suitable for posts and beams of houses. CHARACTER AND PRODUCTS OF THE SOIL. PUERTO RICO AS AN ISLAND. Major Glassford makes no special report on this topic. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports in two sections. The first relates to the island as a whole : The soil of the mountain areas is frequently a tremendously sticky red clay, formed from the decomposition of volcanic rock. The bottoms — the plains along the coast — are generally alluvial near the mouths of rivers ; in other cases they are formed by the decompo- sition of the lime rock. These two soils are dark brown or black, simi- lar to the "black waxy" soil of Texas, near Dallas. At present these plains are used altogether for sugar cane and pasture lands. The more sandy soils are used for tobacco and such as the batata, a rather poor variety of the sweet potato. It is customary to say that the coffee plant can only be profitably cultivated on the higher ground, say at an elevation of 500 feet, but in truth the whole island, plains and all, was given over to coffee raising some years ago, and only when the flood of Brazilian coffee broke the market were the plains again devoted to the cultivation of the sugar cane and the coffee tree banished to its present home, the steeply sloping lands of the interior. The second is intermingled with other matter pertaining to Arecibo district: At the Camuy River the (coastal) plain widens out slightl3\ East of Manati this plain is sandy. * * * About 4 miles west of Camuy a gentle sloping valley occurs and is utilized for the produc- tion of sugar cane. Unless the plains are very sandy, they are used for cane growing, the sloping ground slightlj^ back from the sea for tobacco, pasturage, bananas, and small fruits. The sandj^ plains are used for the batata, peanuts, cocoanut palm, and frequently tobacco of a poor quality. Back of the hill barrier * * * the rock has weathered into a tough and tenacious soil, generally of a red color, and forms the typical coffee land. Nevertheless, it is capable of produc- ing delicious fruits, and every coffee farm raises without cultivation sufiacient oranges, pineapples, mangoes, plantains, and bananas for home consumption. CONDITIONS IN PUEETO KICO. 21 DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports : The soil in the northwest is mostly more or less sanely and stony. This is true of part of the west section also. In the southeastern section there is considerable good soil, especially in the valley of the Culebrina and about Rincon. The soil on the mountain and hillsides of the interior is more or less a rich loam, but when the hills are bare the soil is poor and stony. In the low- lands it is more or less rich. In places there is considerable red clay. The general character of soil is sandy, with a mixture of clay. List of domestic and wild flowers that are Jcnown in this locality, indigenous and imported. ■Name. Indigenous or im- ported. Remarks. Cajuil flower Allelu.iah flower . Gilly flower- Sesame flower. - Arraijan flower . Acacia flower — Succory flower . Oleander Marshmallow- . . Poppy Almond trees — Amaranthe It is wild and grows in the country without cul- tivation. Of difi:erent colors, scattered in fields, and some cultivated in gardens. Cultivated in gardens. Imported I Cultivated for seed, which yield afine oil. Indigenous I Plentiful in the country. Imported ! Several kinds, cultivated in gardens. Anacaguita Pineapple.- Anemones Angelica flower Mugwort flower. Aromatic flower Orange or lemon flower. Annotto flower . Indigenous Imported .. Indigenous do Imported .. Indigenous Imported .- Indigenous Imported .. do Indigenous do Imported .. Indigenous White lily Poppy flower, or Adori- nidera. Alilaida flower Balsam-apple flower . . . Balsam flower Sweet potato Batatillas Bervinca flower Borage flower Button flower Witch flower Baculo flower Cactus Pumpkin Canduga Widow-wail Bell flower Plane tree Cassia fistula Do Cress _ Caracol Campo santo Pink flowers Common pink flowers. Wax flowers.-- Copey flower Dahlia flower. Diamela flower Dragon flower Encorcivuena flower. . Larkspur Estrafia flowers Parcha flowers Imported . . Indigenous do Imported do do Indigenous — Imported do do Indigenous Imported Indigenous and im- ported. Imported Indigenous - Imported Indigenous Indigenous Imported Indigenous Imported do Indigenous Imported do_ do.._ Indigenous Imported do do_ '. Indigenous Imported do do Without cultivation. Cultivated in gardens. Grows wild in the country. Is found wild; cultivated in some gardens. Planted on squares and avenues. Cultivated in order to extract from the tuber- cle the faeculse that carry its name. Produces the famous pineapples. Cultivated in gardens. Do. Found in the country. Scattered in our fields. Cultivated by the excellent condition of the fruits produced by lemon tree, sour-orange tree, and orange tree. Wild, and cultivated for the excellent condition of the seeds. There are two classes (red and yellow) that are used for dyeing. Cultivated in gardens. Grows wild in our fields. Wild. Cultivated in some gardens. Cultivated in gardens. Cultivated for food. Without cultivation. Cixltivated in gardens. Cultivated. Do. Grows wild in country. Without cultivation. Cultivated for the fruit. Wild. Cultivated in gardens. Grows wild in the country. Grows wild. Wild. Cultivated in our fields. Cultivated in our gardens. Without cultivation. Of diiierent colors; cultivated in gardens. Cultivated in gardens. Do. Of several colors: cultivated in gardens. Cultivated in gardens. Cultivated in our gardens. Wild. Cultivated in our gardens. Do. 22 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. List of domestic and ivild floivers that are known in this locality, etc. — Continued. Name. Indigenous or im- ported. Remarks. Puatua Pomarrosa _ - Trumpet flower Crewe's bill (Crow's bill-'). Elio trope (Heliotrope?) Sunflower -_ --- Facinto flower Jasamine flower . - _ Indigenous do do Imported .. _do. .do. .do. Iris flower Night lady flower Honeysuckle flower Magnolia flower Furnsole flower Myrtle flower Narcissus flower Heart's-ease flower Everlasting flower Santa Teresa feather flower. Receda flower G-arden's flower Resales Sensitive flower Everlasting flower (3) . . Tulipan flower Imported and indige- nous. do Indigenous Imported do .do. .do. .do. .do. .do .do. do do do Indigenous Imported .. do "Without cultivation. Do. Cultivated. Cultivated in our gardens. Cultivated. Do. Cultivated and grows wild in the country. Do. Without cultivation. Cultivated . Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Grows wild. Cultivated. Do. There are several kinds of flowers and vines too numerous to state in tills brief sketch. Ventura Marin. See also list of cultivated and wild fruits for this district under 'Principal crops." DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster reports: The soil is fertile and produces mainly coffee, tobacco, plantains, bananas, and other tropical fruits. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler reports: The soil is very fertile and productive. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports : The soil of the island of Puerto Rico, as well as the district of Mayaguez, is, as is well known, very fertile ; pro- duces abundantlj^ all of the tropical fruits, causing remunerative returns upon all investments judiciously managed. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : Generally speaking, the soil is a sandy loam of very shallow depth over a very soft limestone, which in many places crops out on the surface. In this, as in the climate, there is such a diversity that it would be well-nigh impossible to describe the soil of the district in anything like a general way, for in some places it is deep and dark and rich, while in others it is shallow, light, and brown. The only general observation that could be ventured is that the soil is rich and will grow almost anything with true tropical luxuriance and that the best sugar and coffee lands of the island lie in the district of Ponce. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 23 DISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports: The soil is very fertile and produces an abundant vegetation. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt makes no si)ecific report. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports: The land is so fertile here that every vege- table known to me can be raised, though, strange to say, our staple vegetables — Irish potatoes and onions^ — are not, the people preferring to buy them in the stores at exorbitant prices ; other vegetables are raised in small quantities. PUBLIC LANDS. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports : Am informed that there are none in this district. Am informed that public lands are given by the " governor- general" to persons making application through secretary of justice, 50 cuertas to one person. Land must be cultivated immediately, taxes must be paid for twenty years, then title is acquired. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports : Some of the towns and villages hold and own land; others do not. The town of Moco owns 14 acres of land besides the cemetery; San Sebastian owns 46 acres in addition to ceme- tery; Rincon owns 18 acres — 78 acres in all. The other towns own no land. I can not find that the state (island) owns any land but the few acres on which soldiers' barracks are built in the larger towns and the strips of beach land extending along the shore and having a width of 20 meters inland. This strip is said to be pYiblic land. I am not able to ascertain how this land is held and entered. There are no improve- ments of what are called public land, except the barracks built by the government. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report without date, as follows: With the exception of a small piece of ground near San German called " Las Peladas " there are not public lands in this district. No records can be found relative to any property of this nature at any of the municipalities. If there were any at about the time of the conquest of the island they were immediately taken possession of. I am of the opinion that there were none at the time nor had there been anj^ for a number of years previous. Undisturbed possession of landed property for a number of years under Spanish law gave the "squatter" claimant an undisputed and perfect title. It is possible that there may be a few spots on the extreme heights of the mountains not claimed by anyone and would be ordinarily designated as public 24 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. lands, but such places are of no value whatever and are absolutely worthless for all practical purposes. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : A piece of land' on the north side of Sabana Grande is regarded as public land. It is called "Las Peladas." DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports as follows: Each city in the district has one or more plazas or parks, which are owned by the city, and also a city hall or alcaldia, besides usually one or two other buildings. Many of the cities hold public lands or farms near the city, which are often given over to t.he poor for gar- dens. Owing to the confusion attendant upon the separation of church and state, msiny of the churches are claimed bj^ both the city and church, and public records have been so kept as to render the origin of the ownership of the city's land in some doubt, and also so as to make a report on manner of entering and holding land difficult. STATE OF IMPROVEMENTS. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb, under the subheading of "Plantations and farms," says: General condition unadvanced. Machinery for sugar and coffee plantations old and primitive. Farm tools are a crooked stick, for a plow, hoes, and machetes. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield, under heading "Cities and towns," says: The improvements have been few. Most all towns and villages have empty treasuries, and do not seem to be able to raise enough to pay their employees without going into other expenditures. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster makes no report. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: Besides the renovation of the "Asilio De Los Pobres," formerly the town poor- house, now occupied by Troop C, Fifth Cavalry, and the many altera- tions for the betterment of the interior of the infantry barracks, situated in the center of the city of Humacao, there have been practi- cally no municipal improvements, for nearly all the cities are in considerable debt. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. In a supplement to the report of Major Thomas, -the alcalde of Mayaguez says : A military hospital, built of brick, of sufficient size, CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 25 lies north of the city and near the asylum for the poor. Its hygienic conditions seem to be satisfactorj-. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : Very few improvements have been made. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : On the playa of Ponce is a fair engine hopse of wood, but in good repair. The city halls of the various towns 'are usually in good con- dition, but other municipal buildings are generally poor. Jails, pest- houses, and insane asylums are usually in very bad condition. Ponce has a good city hospital and a fair poorhouse, and the state of her improvements is rather better than that of other cities in the district. City streets are usually of fair macadam in the principal part of the city and of dirt in the poorer parts'. None of the cities have a sewer system, and Ponce alone has a water supply piped into the houses. In the way of public buildings, Ponce has a new and modern hospital, a poorhouse, insane asylum, orphans' home, a home for old women, a pesthouse, and three cemeteries. Yauco has two plazas, upon one of which is the market and upon the other the Roman Catholic cathedral. This latter (plaza) is beautified by palms and flowers, with shade trees and benches along its well- kept walks. Coamo boasts an excellent, if small, club, theater, and hotel. It has but one plaza, which contains the market as well as the ever-present cathedral. PLANTATIONS AND FARMS. Principal Crops, Agricultural and Horticultural, with Markets and Value. puerto rico as an island. Major Glassford does not discuss this topic. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb says : The future of the island is bright, with its rich soil and salubrious climate. * * * The island would seem to offer an ideal spot for fruit cultivation, especially of the orange, grape fruit, lemons, and pines. Tobacco, too, of an excellent quality thrives on the island. The plains are, unless very sandy, used for cane growing; the sloping ground slightly back from the sea for tobacco, pasturage, and small fruits. The steep limestone hills are not generally used, though capable of producing coffee. The more sandy plains are used for the batata — a poor species of sweet potato — peanuts, cocoanuts, palms, and frequentlj^ for a poor quality of tobacco. Some 12 miles from the north coast the volcanic rock is encountered. This rock has weathered into a soil tough and tena- cious^ generally of a red color, which is the typical coffee land. It is, 26 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. nevertheless, capable of producing delicious fruits, and every coffee farm raises without cultivation sufficient oranges, pineapples, man- goes, plantains, and bananas for home consumption. Coffee to Germany and Italy; poorer class to Cuba. Price now low, $7.50 to $10, according to quality, per quintal of 100 pounds. Sugar to the United States, $1.68 per quintal; old price, $3. Tobacco to Germany, $2.40 per quintal for filler, $9 to $11 for wrap- pers; old prices were more than double these. Cocoanut from Santana, Hatillo, and Camuy shipped to New York from Arecibo port via Mayaguez by sea; sometimes from Arecibo in coasting vessels via San Juan to New York. Lumber, Acetillo, in logs by cart to Arecibo, thence to Germany. Molasses from this port to New York, Boston, and Canada, $8.45 per hogshead. Oranges not really cultivated, just permitted to grow. Are gen- erally sweet and good, but capable of much improvement by selection and grafting. Occasionally shipped from Mayaguez to New York. Rice formerly cultivated to a considerable extent. Crops attacked by insect called changa. Rice now usually imported from Hamburg, Germany. Other fruits that succeed here: Mango, pinea^pple, grape fruit, lemon. Tropical fruits of vicinity. — Poma rosa (rose apple), jacana, leches- illa, jobo, anon, caimito (star apple), hicaco. limon dulce (sweet lemon), lima (wild lemon), calambreiia, zapote (sapota), ingerta (grafted orange), aguacates (alligator j»ears), uvas playa (sea grapes), higuillo (small fig), datiles (dates), fruta de pan (bread fruit), cocos (cocoanuts), multas, ahusuba, jagua, ciruela (plum), carason, guana- bana, guayaba (guara tree), mango (mango tree), china (orange), pajuil, mamey (mamee tree), nispero (medlat [medlar?] tree), pinas (pineapple), lechosa, (sweet bread), quenepas, coroso (sort of palm tree), alagarrobo (carob tree), havanpen (poor's bread),, guines (bananas). DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports : The character of the soil is such that even in the stony and sandy sections, like Isabela, if properly tilled and cultivated acicording to modern methods it will be very produc- tive, especially when climate and moisture are considered. The chief farm products are coffee, sugar, tobacco, beans, habas (a large bean), sweet potatoes, yams, rice, tubercles, corn, sesame, and peanuts; some cassava and also cocoa (chocolate bean) are produced. Garden products are principally peas (Spanish variety), Irish pota- toes, garlic, eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, small quantities of onions, cabbage, beets, and cucumbe^rs. The principal fruits are bauaaas, pineapples, cocoanuts, nispero, mamey, sapote nispero, mangoes, lemons, limes, caimito, melons of all kinds, guama, anones, guayoba (guava), tamarinds, guonobibes, jagua, oranges, papia, pomegranate, and alligator i3ears. There are also a few dates and other fruits. There are reported to be 90 eoff'ee plantations, 22 sugar plantations, 3 tobacco plantations, and 3,950 farms of different sizes, where every- thing, including small quantities of sugar, coffee, and tobacco, are raised. It is reported that under the present sj' stem of cultivation the fol- lowing amounts are produced per acre in this district: Coffee, 400 to CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO, 27 600 pounds; sugar, 2 to 3 liogsheads; tobacco, 800 pounds; sweet pota- toes, 5,000 pounds; rice, 6 to 16 bushels; beans, 2 to 4 bushels; peas, 1 to 3 bushels, the yield depending upon the soil, locality, and weather. Other articles are produced in various quantities. No hsij, oats, wheat, or barley seem to be produced, and but little corn. At the present time (May 30, 1899) coffee only brings 112 to $13 per 100 pounds; sugar, s|54 per 100 pounds; rum (one of the by-products of sugar mills), 80 cents a gallon ; and rice, $5 per 100 pounds. Onions bring $6 per 100 pounds, and Irish potatoes about the same; corn, $1.50 to 11.75 per 100 pounds. The prices are those of leading arti- cles and are given in provincial money. The methods of cultivation are mainly of the most primitive sort. I have seen but few plows, harrows, or modern farming implements in the district. A sharp stick is usually dragged over the ground for a plow, and the earth is only really scratched, not turned under. There is little or no use of manure, except in a few instances among coffee and sugar plantations. Most fruits, oranges and bananas included, seem to practically grow wild — that is, they may be planted, but are soon left to shift for them- selves, but seem to flourish. Careful cultivation according to modern methods and the free use of manure, together with good drainage, would produce wonderful results. A good deal of care is generally taken with the cultivation of coffee and sugar, but even with them there is room for great improvement, which would very materially increase the products. In this district most of the coffee is produced in and about Lares, San Sebastian, and Moco, where the country and soil are best adapted for it. Most of the sugar is produced in the southwestern section of the district, from Aguadilla to Rincon, though there is, some cultivated in the vicinity of Isabela. Most of the tobacco is raised in the Isabela section, though some is raised in the vicinity of Quebradillas, Moco, and Lares, and C|uite a good deal near Aguadilla. Rice seems to grow in all sections in the low places of the district; it is mostly of the upland variety. Beans grow everywhere, especiallj" in Isabela, Aguadilla, and Aguada. Sweet potatoes grow best in Aguadilla and Aguada; so do yams and some vegetables. Other products and vegetables grow all over the district equally well. Few Irish potatoes are raised, because, it is said, the crop does not pay and the demand is not very great, owing to high prices, which prevent them from becoming a staple article of diet. Principal crops: Coffee, sugar, and tobacco. Principal fruits : Bananas, cocoanuts, and oranges, as given above. Chief local markets: Aguadilla, Arecibo, and Mayaguez. Principal foreign markets: For best grade of coffee, Europe; for poor grades, Cuba; for sugar. United States; for best grades of tobacco, Cuba; for low grades, Spain. It is impossible to obtain the value of crops at present, owing to the unsettled state of affairs. Lares is in the midst of a very rich coffee district. The Salvador- Amell sugar plantation, worth about 350,000 pesos, is near Moco, and is fitted with modern machiner}- for making sugar by the centrifugal process. 28 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. There is miicli sugar raised about Rincon; also many cocoanuts, sweet potatoes, etc. Quebradilla: * * * There is much tobacco, some sugar, some coffee, and many peanuts raised there; also yams and sweet potatoes. Isabela: * * * Some coffee is raised about there, and consid- erable sugar and much tobacco. It is a comparatively dry locality, where sometimes in the drj^^ season there is considerable drought. LIST OF WILD AND CULTIVATED FRUITS THAT ARE KNOWN IN THIS DISTRICT. Alligator pear (aguacate) : {Persia gratisma.) This fruit is produced by the tree that bears its name; plentiful. (Cultivated. ) Custard apple (anon): {Anona squamosa.) From the same family of the Anano- cea fruits; it is sugared and has a delicious taste. (Cultivated.) Carob bean (algarrobo): {Hyiirenca courbaril.) This fruit, of saliqua shape, is produced by the tree of the same name. This fruit is little appreciated in Puerto Rico. (It grows wild.) Almond ( almendra ) : ( Amygdalus coummes. ) Of the same family as the Rosaceas. Wild eggplant (berengena cimarrona): (Solomacea L.) This fruit is produced by a large tree and grows wild. It is poisonous. Cajuil or (maraiion) : {Anacardium occidentalis.) This fruit tree carries the name of the fruit. Pineapple (piiia): ( Br omelia ananas.) There are three kinds of this fruit. The one called pan de azucar (sugar bread), the cabezona (big head), and the negrita (black). All cultivated. Guanabana: (Anona neuricata.) There are two kinds of this fruit, the sour and the sweet one, and it has a very nice taste. Mango (wild) : {Mangifera India. ) Large tree that produces the fruit of its name; belongs to the Ferembentinaces family, and there are several kinds, called red, white, bees, the bull's egg, the ash color, and the mangotin, all of them having a good taste. Guava (guayaba): (Ptsidiwm, belongs to the Mirtaceas family). There are sev- eral kinds, and they are used for making jelly. (Grows wild.) Peru's guava (sour guava, sweet guava): (Pisidium pyriferum) cultivated. [Pisidinm guayaba) wild. {Pisidium aromaticum) wild. Cacao (cocoa bean, chocolate bean): {Theobroma, family Bitneriaceas.) Food of the goddess. There are several kinds — the common cocoa, the guayana, the reddish, the elegant, the wild, the small, the yellow, the oval leaves, and the starry leaves. (Cultivated.) Coffee (cafe): (Cafea arabiga.) Of the family of Rubeaceas. This is the richest plant on this island. (Cultivated.) Guam a: {Fa iiiilia Jeguminosa. ) There are two kinds on this island— the white and the red. This fruit is insipid, btit is planted to give shade to the coffee and cocoa tree. (Grows wild.) Achiote: {Biga 07^ellana. ) There are two kinds — the red and the yellow. Both are used for dyeing. (Cultivated.) Bread fruit (Pan de palo): {Artocarpus incisa.) This fruit is plentiful here and is cultivated as food for the poor class of people and for feeding hogs. (Cul- tivated.) Malagueta: (Xilopia grandiflora. ) This seed is used to make a very good oil. (Cultivated.) Poma Rosa: (Eugenia jambosa.) This fruit is plentiful in this country, and it has a very agreeable odor. (Wild.) Nispero (Medlar fruit): (Anchas sapotas.) This fruit is cultivated because it tastes very nice. ( C alti vated. ) Quenepos: {Melicoca bijuga.) This fruit has a very good taste. (Cultivated.) Pomegranate (Granada): (Punlea granatum.) This fruit is very nice. Cocoanut (cocoa): (Cocus unciferotis.) This fruit is very popular and when green gives a very nice drinking water. (Cultivated. ) Royal palm (palmareal): (Oreadexa regia.) This fruit is only used for feeding pigs. Orange (China): (Auranceas.) This fruit is cultivated for the fine taste it has. (Cultivated.) Sour orange (naranjas): (Citrus vulgaris.) This fruit is used for cooking and for raaking sweets. (Cultivated.) Lemons (limones): (Hesperideas.) Cultivated for making sweets and the juice for refreshment. (Cultivated.) CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 29 Corazon (heart fruit): {Anona relicnlata.) Grows wild. Red dwarf pepper (aji): {CapHic^im arum.) Grows wild. Tamarind (tamarindo) : ( Tamarindufi Indica. ) There are two kinds, the sour and the sweet; used for refreshment. (Grows wild.) Jacana: (Poman viride.) This fruit is of no importance. (Grows wild.) Ycaco: (Chrifiobalamus Ycaciiti.) Of no importance. (Grows wild.) Star apple (caimito): {Chryt^ophlum caimito.) This fruit is cultivated. Lechocosa 6 Papaya: {Carica.) This frui£ is good when ripe, and when green is good to make sweets. (Grows wild.) Calambrena: (Estaliana.) Grows wild in the country and produces a very good fruit, like figs. Jagua: {Geiniprea Americana.) This fruit is of little importance. Grows wild. Bananas (platanos) : {Musa paradisica.) There are of this fruit eight kinds. Dominican bananas: {Musa regia.) Red bananas: {Musa rosacea.) Small red bananas: (Musa coccinea.) Common bananas: {Musa sapientum.) Apple bananas: {Musa Tiumilis.) Tapocho (bananas): {Musa mixta.) All these kinds are cultivated in the country for different uses. Copey: {Clusia rosea, ) This tree grows wild and carries the name of its fruit and produces the vegetable tar. Cassia fistula (carta fistula): {Cathartocarpus fistula.) There are two kinds, the common and the wild one; both grow wild. Melon: {Melo viridis.) Cultivated. There are three kinds of it, the round, the odor, and the long. Watermelon (patillas) : {Cucurhita commes.) There are two kinds, the white and the red one, and are cultivated for the good flavor. Granadilla: {Parcha passiflora.) This fruit grows on a twining plant; it is wild and sometimes it is cultivated for its agreeable flavor. Cucumber (pepino): {Averrhoa bilumhi.) This plant grows wild, and there are several kinds, used for salads and pickles. Higo chumbo: {Ficiis cactus opumtia indica.) This fruit grows wild and it is only used for making ink. Pita-haya: {Cactus pilahaya.) This fruit is insipid. Cherry: {Malastoma hista.) This fruit is cultivated for making sweets. Wild pumpkin: {Arum colasia.) This fruit grows wild. Ginger: {Amonrum Jengihre. ) This rootor tubercle grows wild, and in someplaces it is cultivated for exportation. There are two kinds, sweet and sour. Vasquena: {Piper mubejkd urn.) ■ This plant grows wild. Sand grape: {Cocolola uvilfera.) This fruit grows wild. Higera blanca: {Cresentis cuyete. ) This fruit grows wild and it is used for several things. There are several kinds. Jobo: {Spo7idia lutea.) This tree grows wild. There are two kinds, the big tree and the small tree, that produce a fruit called jovillo, with very good flavor. Buenaventura Marina. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster reports : The lands are mainly owned in large bodies and worked by laborers wlio live in huts erected on the land by per- mission of the owners. The principal crops are coffee and tobacco. This is the center of the tobacco industry of the island, and Cayey cigars have the reputation of being the best on the island. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dent ler reports: The principal crops are sugar, molasses, and tobacco. In the district are manj^ plantations and farms, and the proprietors of these estates are generally either well-to-do or wealthy men. There are large, comfortable, cool houses upon these plantations. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports : Sugar cane is the most profitable crop, fol- lowed closely by coffee, then tobacco, rum, rice, corn, beans, and the 30 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. different varieties of fruits — pineapples, cocoanuts, guayabas, sweet oranges, cherries, mangoes, limes, nisperos, mamey, and others. There are in this district two factories that are called "centrals," for the grinding of cane and the manufacture of sugar, rum, and molasses. These establishments absorb the sugar cane grown upon the lands of the estate as well as other lands in the immediate vicinity and owned by different people, and there are other manufactories of the same kind, steam mills and ox mills; in the latter the motive power is oxen, yoked by the horns, as in primitive times. The centrals are the most important, having for each year's crop the cane from 200 to 400 acres, the others ranging from 80 to 200 acres; some as low as 40 acres. Usually there are manufactured three classes of sugar — first, second, and third — the first-class usually in small amounts and sold for home consumption, the other classes going to the United States. The trade with Spain, heretofore an important item in the island industries, having ceased, it now requires, in order to make a planta- tion pay, as manager an experienced planter who has had experience, who has an intimate knowledge of the sugar-cane industrj^, who also has had experience in the tropics and knows the different soils, understands the problems of drainage, fertilizing, the working of men, and the proper manner of caring for the cane after planting. In connection with the manufacturing of sugar,' the output of rum from each factory is also important, and must be embraced in the cal- culations of anyone seeking such an investment. All sugar factories have a distillery apparatus connected with the main building. From these establishments large quantities of rum (ranging from 1 to 500 hogsheads in each factory) are annually placed upon the market, shipments being made to different ports and large quantities being consumed upon the island. The home consumption of rum is enormous. By retaining it a few years, stored in places speciallj^ constructed for that purpose, a quality of rum is produced equal to the Santa Cruz and Jamaica products, so well known and so much sought after all over the world. The variety of cane usually planted on both the large and small estates is known as the white cane, it giving the best results. It requires from ten to twelve months for development, is ordinarily planted in Februarj^ or March, and is ready for harvesting and grind- ing in the following January. The grinding season lasts about five months, more or less, depending upon the crop, the maturitj^ of the cane, and the readiness of the proprietors and mills for work, includ- ing, of course, the weather. Upon the lands pertaining to the large sugar estates are located, in small houses near by, a large number of working people, mostly colored, wdio go with the lands when they are sold or pass into other hands, so that there is always plenty of laborers on each plantation. A large number of poor people on this island own small properties of from" 2 to 10 acres each, who do not depend upon the products of their own property for sustenance, but work during the cane, coffee, or tobacco season at the near by large "haciendas," cultivating their small properties at odd times, raising a few vegetables and eking out a somewhat monotonous existence. Their condition in some localities, is decidedly pitiful, and will be so until the present conditions change. That, however, will not be long. The coffee grounds, or farms, are mostly in the high districts or foothills, sometimes situated near the topmost points of the mountain ranges. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 31 Tlie coffee plant requires from five to eiglit years for full develop- ment, and must be abundantly shaded all tlie time, the land being first cleared and the shade grown before the plant will thrive. The crop is certain, though somewhat affected by the violent rain storms so common on this island. To the coffee grounds in this district there are but few good roads ; in fact, but oneor two. Hence the marketing of the coffee Diust be by ox carts and pack trains, adding somewhat to the expense. But few coffee planters have the necessary machinery to properly prepare their coffee for the market. The coffee is usually sold to the dealers, who have tlie control or ownership of the polishing establish- ments that prepare the coffee for the market. Coffee lands, likewise sugar-cane lands, can be bought and bought reasonably in this district if the individual seeking such an invest- ment is a sharp, shrewd business man, and I take it no others will attempt it. Frequently land here has sold as high as $300 per acre; other lands very much cheaper. The price will vary considerably, depending upon the locality, the quality of the land, roads, w^ater facilities, markets, and jurisdiction. Puerto Rican coffee is of the best kind; is not used in the United States to any extent, owing to the enormous output of coffee from Brazil, the "trust," and the high price. Some coffee is now^ being shipped to the United States from this port. Like sugar cane, it requires for successful management an exi)erienced planter. Af!ter once started — that is, ready to produce the first crop — the returns from a coffee farm will be ample on the investment and tlie exiDense of maintenance of the farm in shipshape slight. The tobacco of this district is a superior article, wdiicli is grown near Cabo Rojo and other places, much of the tobacco grown here and elsewhere in Puerto Rico going to Habana, and from there exported as Cuban or Habana tobacco. It is just as good an article of tobacco as that grown in Cuba, with the single exception of that grown in a small district of Cuba known as the " Vuelta Abajo." The people here do not have the facilities for storing and curing -tobacco; moreover, do not understand the process as well as their Cuban neighbors. If they did, the tobacco of Puerto Rico would not be classedas inferior to any in the world. To obtain the best results the crops must be carefully attended to, must be gathered at a certain time, and must go through the sweating process in a propeiij^ con- structed building free from too much moisture. Many small farms groAv an inferior article that is used wholly in the manufacture of chewing tobacco and is usually sold to the natives, this class of tobacco not being considered sufficiently elastic for the manufacture of cigars. This industry pays handsome profits. Rice, beans, and corn form an important item in the island indus- tries, the diet of the laboring classes consisting almost entirely of rice, beans, and bread. All farmers raise quite a stand of these staples for those laborers about the farm and for sale in the contiguous markets. Bananas, platanos, and guineos grow well and yield abundantly, not much attention being paid to banana plants except as shade for coffee in the first year. Bananas and pineapples could be exported to the United States and would give a good return on the outlay, but they have to be trans- ported in ships especially constructed for the purpose and fast liners. 1 This report is without date, but probably written in May or June, 1899. 32 ' CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. Mayag'uez district has been noted for the excellent quality of its pineapples for years, large quantities being shipped to different locali- ties, and all steamers touching here for passengers, discharging or loading cargo, take on a supply of this luscious fruit, palatable, healthy, and cheap. The cocoanut industry is yet in its infancy. In time it will be increased 50 per cent. The water from young cocoanuts is always cool, extremel}^ healthy, and delicious. It furnishes a cooling drink to anyone who will purchase, the natives furnishing them in any quantity— the coast lands being the best for raising the cocoa palm. One seeking a piece of ground for the purpose of cultivating this fruit should obtain a ' ' patch " bordering the sea. Large quantities of cocoanuts are now used in the candy markets of New York, the supplj^ being unequal to the demand. Oranges grow almost wild, no attention being paid to the cultivation of the trees. Of the two varieties grown here, the ones sold under the name of "Chinas" are the best, the sour variety not being in the market. I am of the opinion that oats would do well here (Cabo Rojo), though could get no positive information on the subject. Corn seems to do very well. It is a small, white flint variety ; whether anj^ different or better variety would thrive is a question. It would not, moreover, pay. Sweet corn should do well, and truck gardens, with good seed from the States, would pay well near the large towns and near rail- road centers. The alcalde of Mayaguez says: Its coast lands are composed of argil, sand, lime, and surface soil, this last component being gen- erally abundant in the land, owing to its greater or less distance from the sea. Coffee is produced in abundance and is considered to be one of the best varieties in the world. All of its lands are suitable for x)lanting of sugar cane. There are some plains "vegas" where "middling" tobacco is grown. Some of the smaller fruits are grown, such as sweet oranges, cocoanuts, pineapples, etc., that with cheap and convenient means for transportation would form important items of export. As to the true condition of properties, coffee, and small fruits, it may be stated positively that they are at a comparative standstill. This is due to several causes occurring previous to the war, whicli it would be unnecessary to enumerate here, causing a feeling of uncer- tainty in business circles. The principal crops are sugar and coffee, although sugar is com- paratively low to what it formerly was. The alcalde of Cabo Rojo states: Here are 9 plantations with steam engines from 12 to 16 horsepower, and 14 worked bj^ oxen. Cane is cultivated, producing at present approximately 26,000 quin- tals of 100 pounds of sugar annually. This output could be increased if money could be obtained at reasonable terms. There are 14 alembics (distilling apparatus) for the distillation of rum, which j'ield from 25 to 125 gallons a day. The annual output is 123,200 liters, and that is when molasses does not bring a reasonable price in the market. The same planters prefer to sell molasses for exportation, making- use only of the cachaza, the thick foam and spoils left after the squeezing of the cane through the mill rollers. Besides, there arer8^3 farms amongst the number breeding cattle of all kinds. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. , 33 The cultivation of minor fruits is unknown. The planting of coffee is a specialty, although in some of those "it grows in small portions, so much so that the yearlj^ yield may be esti- mated at from 300 to 400 quintals.'' The number of acres of land embraced by the 23 cane plantations and the 863 farms already mentioned is about 36,258 acres, divided as follows: Plain land, 12,203 acres; hilly land, 11,084 acres; mountain and forest, 12,971 acres; total, 36,258. Under his description of "Cities and towns" Major Thomas reports as follows : Mayaguez: Agricultural interests are as follows: One central sugar manufactorj''; 16 large sugar manufactories; 22 large coffee farms; 145 small coffee farms; 371 small farms for the small fruits. Hormigueros : Agricultural interests are as follows : Nine large sugar manufactories; 9 small- coffee farms; 184 small farms for raising small fruits of the island. ATiasco : Agricultural interests are as follows : Sixteen large sugar manufactories; 7 large coffee farms ; 103 small coffee farms; 500 small fruit farms, small fruit of the island. San German : Agricultural interests are as follows : Eight large sugar manufactories; 30 coffee farms. Sabana Grande : Agricultural interests are as follows : Five large sugar manufactories; 6 large coffee farms; 464 small farms devoted to fruit raising. Maricao: Agricultural interests are as follows: Ninety-five large coffee farms and 153 small coffee farms. Las Marias: A fine coffee region, having coffee interests as follows: Forty-four large coffee farms and 397 small coffee farms. Lag" as : Agricultural interests are as follows : Nine large sugar manu- factories; 9 small coffee farms; 624 small fruit farms devoted to the cultivation of the small fruits of the island. Cabo Rojo: Agricultural interests are as follows: Twenty-six large sugar manufactories; 892 small fruit farms. Wheat cultivation is not an industry in this district, though the consensus of opinion is that it would pay. This important product is completel}^ overshadowed by sugar, coffee, and tobacco cultivation. There are no flour mills and little, if any, wheat is now being raised. It has been attemiDted several times, and I am credibly informed it makes or has made good croi3s and the results were satisfactory. All the flour (wheat and corn) for island consumption being imported from the States, against Spanish opposition, custom duties, etc., which militated against the cultivation of this article of commerce, so it was and has been neglected. There being no mil-Is suitable for reduc- ing the wheat to flour, also, has or has had a depressing influence upon the putting in of a substantial crop. The experiment, I am of the opinion, would prove satisfactory^ though the laborers here under- stand nothing about the preparation of the ground, harvesting, or thrashing. American machinery would necessarily have to be intro- duced, and a good overseer, who has served a term on a large farm in the Western States, installed as manager. The island breed of horses raised here are all small, wiry beasts, suitable only for riding and pack puriDoses, transportation of mails, carriages and small carts, and for traveling on horseback in the inte- rior; not used upon the plantations or farms for working purposes, being entirely unsuitable for anything of that nature. They are all small, about 12 to 14 hands high, some as low as 11 hands, but capable 1 ^1 no ?j 34 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. of and are compelled by tlieir heartless owners to carry considerable weight nnder the saddle and when packed. They are broken at 2 years, and thence forward their burdens are numerous and varied. The males are kept entire, such a thing as castration being unknown, though perhaps it may be due to the danger from screw worms and other insects at all times of the year. The breed has been maintained in a continuous strain, interbreed- ing and crosses of same blood. Hard work, early maturity, w^ant of sufficient nourishment, with brutal handling have resulted in a vicious tendenc}^, manifested in tfye whole race. It has also resulted in an undersized beast that can go at a fair pace, what would be called a " single-foot gait." They must of necessity take this gait, otherwise it would be ' impossible for them to carry the weight. The horses could be improved verj^ greatly by a judicious intermingling of an out-cross blood, adding to the weight or height and correcting the depraved, vicious instincts. Steps have already been taken to this end. General Castleman, of Kentucky, sending his beautiful 3-.year-old saddle stallion, "Good- win," here for a ]3ermanent residence upon the island. I believe this horse is to go to a large hacienda near Ponce. No doubt grand results will follow this imi3ortant importation if intelligently pursued. Some, or j)erhaps nearly all, of the Puerto Rican breed of horses show wonderful powers of endurance under the saddle and in front of carriages; not affected bj" the heat; have very tough, flintj" hoofs; not often sick, and the majority make delightful riding ponies to one who likes the short, chopping steps. The best strains command high prices, some as high as 800 pesos or more, while some fair specimens can be bought as low as 40 pesos. The small English pigskin saddle, also a Puerto Rican product something like the English, is used. There are no farms or ranchos in the district devoted to the exclu- sive breeding, rearing, and handling of native horses. Most owners of large and moderate-sized plantations raise enough for the farm's purposes, such as hauling the family carriage, cross-country riding, and bringing the mails. At some of the large sugar estates I have noticed some good though small si3ecimens, all in most excellent condition, kept so on the native grasses, to which is added a liberal amount of sweetened water or cane juice from the ne>arby mill. It is impossible to raise here anj large number of horses on anj'^ of the farms — that is, hy pasturing, running loose at all times of the year, the rainy season producing the disease known as hoof rot, which is very diii&cult to contend against, and which necessitates the building of cover and board floors to keep them free from the disease. It is even found necessary at times to put the v/orking oxen on board floors during the rainy season. All horses, young and old, at any farm, have to be put under shelter and wpon board floors during this season to insure the immunity from the dreaded scourge to the native and imported equine race on the island of Puerto Rico. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : The principal products are sugar cane, tobacco, coffee, bananas, oranges, limes, corn, besides a few vegeta- bles, and many tropical fruits unknown outside of the island, and which grow wilhout cultivation. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO EICO. 35 A variety of rice is grown on the mountains without irrigation, but the grains are large and coarse and not up to the standard of the marsh-grown rice. The people are ignorant of gardening, and a great profusion of fine vegetables could be produced and the city market vastly improved by the introduction of good seeds and modern methods. Flowers are very little cultivated and professional florists are unknown. The principal j)lantations are of cane, tobacco, coffee, and bananas (which latter two are usually grown together). In the mountains are also large orange, lime, and lemon plantations. There are but few farms in the district and these are devoted to truck gardening. Plantations are usuallj' run on old-fashioned or even primitive lines, and would doubtless become more valuable were modern meth- ods introduced. The principal crops are sugar, tobacco, and coffee, and there is at present (June 1, 1899) no market whatever for them. Formerly the market was almost exclusively Spanish, and this has been taken away, while the almost x>rohibitive tariff which is placed In the United States on x^roducts of Puerto Rico, though it is United States territory, deprives the planters of any chance of creating a market for their goods in the States. The result of these deplorable conditions are at once felt by the planter, whose crop this year is T;orth about one-half of what it brought last year; for instance, a sack of coffee which in 1898 brought 133 noAv sells — if at all — for 812.50. Until these conditions are changed there is no outlook for planters. Tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, sweet potatoes, and like vegetables are raised in small quantities near the cities, but because of inferior seeds and methods are not as fine as those grown in the United States. DISTRICT or SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports: The jurisdiction of San German comprises 30,651 acres of land. This is divided into 1,652 farms, including 8 big sugar plantations with steam machinery. The total output of sugar amounts to approximatel}^ 3,000,000 pounds a year. About 600,000 pounds of coffee is iDroduced j'early in the 70 plantations. The jurisdiction of Sabana Grande comprises 28,096 acres, with 974 farms; 139 coffee j)lantations, with a j^early output of about 400,000 pounds of coffee; 1 big sugar plantation and 4 small ones. The jurisdiction of Lajas comprises 36,569 acres, divided into 872 farms, including 7 large sugar plantations run by steam machinery. The j^earlj^ output of sugar on these is about 2,500,000 pounds. On 5 small plantations about 6,000 pounds of sugar are raised per year. Fourteen small coffee plantations produce approximate!}^ 30,000 pounds of coffee per year. The jurisdiction of Cabo Rojo comprises 36,258 acres, with 886 farms. On 10 of its large sugar plantations about 2,000,000 j)Ounds of sugar is manufactured yearly. Fourteen small plantations, with mills run by oxen; about 120,000 pounds of sugar is produced per year. The coffee raised on 16 small plantations amounts to about 30,000 pounds per year. The principal crops are sugar, coffee, and tobacco. The sugar finds a market in the United States, the value being from 2 to 3 pesos per 100 pounds. 36 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO- Coffee is mostly exported to Germany, France, Spain, and Cuba, and is sold at 11 to 14 pesos per 100 pounds. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt, under date of May 12, 1899, reports: Sugar and coffee are the principal products. The former is natural to the lowlands; the latter to the higher lands. Both are crudely cul- tivated. Tobacco and corn are next in importance. Immense fruit crops grow wild, but on account of bad transporta- tion facilities are not cultivated, and only cocoanuts are exported. Cattle are raised extensively; much valuable land is now left for grazing; hides are exported, but few cattle. Improved implements, good roads, and better stock are needed to develop this country. Land values and crops would be largely increased; roads are most important; once off the military roads, streams must be forded ; half loads only can be hauled, and there are several quite im]3ortant little towns reached only by trail. * * * The large sugar and coffee iDlantations are excellently carried on, and there are usually found foreigners or Spaniards of Avealth and edu- cation. Rio Piedras : Sugar is the staple ; several large mills are now in operation and more are expected. Many vegetables for use in San Juan are raised near b}', and the higher part of the township produces excellent tobacco. Carolina is an important sugar and cattle center. Rio Grande : The sugar from this district is shipped from the open port of Loiza, on the Atlantic Ocean. Bayamon: The township is devoted partly to sugar and partly to coffee, and the lack of roads has kept it all back. Navanjita and Sabana del Palma: Coffee and tobacco are somewhat grown ; the land is extremely fertile. Corosal and Toa Alta form another natural but undeveloped coffee section. Toa Baja, its port Dorado, and Vega Alta form another group of sugar and coffee plantations. This section is flourishing, has fair com- munications, * * * and very fertile soil. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports: The country is mountainous, with but few, if any, valleys or plains, but exceedingly fertile, the principal industries being sugar and cat- tle, the latter, I think, of a superior quality to those of Puerto Rico. It is estimated that there are about 10,000 or 12,000 head of beef cattle on the island, and about 3,500 tons of sugar manufactured yearly. It could x)roduce three or four times this much easily. Horses are plentiful and are larger and stronger than those of Puerto Rico. The principal food of the lower classes is plantains (which takes the place of bread; in fact, they prefer it to bread), bananas, rice, sweet potatoes, beans, and dried codfish (when they can afford to buy the latter). Thej are all addicted to rum; some almost live on it. It can be bought here for 10 centavos a quart, and is one of the principal causes of the demoralization of the poorer classes. CONDITIONS IN PUEETO RICO. 37 The land is so fertile here that every vegetable that I know of can be raised, thongh, strange to say, staple vegetables — Irish potatoes and onions — are not, the i3eople j)referring to bny them in the stores at exorbitant prices. Other vegetables are raised in small quantities. INLAND TRANSPORTATION FACILITIES. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports: The products of Lares, Camuy, Hatillo, and Bareelonita, though retarded by bad roads, force their yvRj through to the port of Arecibo. A new wagon road is being pushed through to Ponce (June, 1899), following generally the line of the Rio Grande. This central road of the island will rival in importance the militar}" road from San Juan to Ponce. With this new road and the electric railway up the Rio Grande and the new road being opened to the rich little town of Lares in opera- tion, Arecibo's future is bright. Regular line of coaches from railroad terminus at Camuy to Agua- dilla, single seat, S4.20; coach for three persons and driver, $9.60. ISTo line from Arecibo to Utuado, but coach for this road can be procured in either city at $9, or single seat $3; saddle horse, to go and return, 83. Xo line to San Sebastian and Lares ; the road will not permit the use of wheels. Saddle horse to go to Lares and return, ^3.60. Freight b}^ pack per quintal of 100 pounds : Arecibo to Utuado, 60 cents in good weather, 90 cents in wet weather; cart, 4 oxen, 17.20 in good weather and from 812 to $15 in wet weather. Arecibo to Lares, ll.20 in good weather; carts in dry weather, 115, but road rarelj^ per- mits the use. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports: The inland transportation facilities at present (Maj^ 30, 1899) are bad. All products from Lares, San Sebas- tian, Isabela, Quebradillas, and other interior and coast towns must be transported on iDack horses or in ox carts to the nearest market for export, and this entails great expense to the producer. Good roads are essential, especially during rainy season, when the roads heretofore have been all but imx3assable at times. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, states: The main mili- tary road from San Juan to Ponce passes through the district, and the city is connected with Guayama and Arroyo on the south by an equally good military road. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of Maj" 16, 1899, states: Transporta- tion facilities are very poor. Roads are still very bad, though a great deal of work has been done ujDon them during the last two months. The mail transportation is overland on a pack mule, owing to the lack of railwaj^ facilities. 38 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report witliout date (probably Maj or June, 1899), saying: The inland transportation facilities are rather j)oor. There is a good wagon road from Mayaguez to San German, with branches to Cabo Rojo and Hormigueros. From Mayaguez to Las Marias not yet completed; also one to Maricao not yet finished. Both will be excel- lent roads if finished in accordance with statements made by the superintendent of island road construction. From Maj^aguez to Aiiasco we have now a fine wagon road, capable of sustaining the heaviest traffic; the road is poor and almost impass- able from Aiiasco to Corsica; from San German to Sabana Grande the road is good ; but from the . latter place to Guanica and Yauco iDoor, mountainous, rocky, and much cut up. It is the Intention to continue work on this road until it is thoroughly reconstructed. From Las Marias to Maricao only a narrow path, not considered practicable for the ]3resent. The alcalde of Mayaguez, in a supplement to Major Thomas's report, says: As to inland transportation, it is comparatively poor in the whole jurisdiction. Roads available for the conveyance of fruits (products) become almost impassable in the rainy season, resulting in increased costs, consequently increasing the value of the products of the soil, preventing healthy competition with other countries. It is also an obstacle against small fruits reaching the city in sufiicient quantities to meet the demand. . SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook says : The inland transportation facilities are very poor, the only means being ox carts and pack horses. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Fames reports : There is really but one good road in the district, i. e., the military road from Ponce to San Juan, although there are a few miles of good road leading out of -Ponce toward Adjuntas. As a rule the roads are almost inii3assable in the wet season and but little better in the dry. Ox teams and carts form the usual means of transportation, and elscAvhere pack burros and horses. From Ponce to San Juan a line of carriages is in operation, which makes the 82 miles in thirteen hours with five relays of horses, and at a cost of $30 Puerto Rican currency. It is proposed to supplant these with naphtha-motor carriages, a companj^ having been formed for that purpose in San Juan. Yauco is 22 miles by rail from Ponce, and has a good road to its port, Guanica, about 4 to 6 miles away. Yauco being at the end of the good roads to Ponce, both rail and wagon, it naturally becomes a starting point for pack trains, and long lines of patient beasts standing about the streets are, perhaps, its most familiar sight. Coamo is also the terminus of the pack trails leading to Barros and Barranquitas, small villages in the wildest and roughest parts of the island and in the midst of the best coffee lands of Puerto Rico. Juana Diaz, about 8 miles from Ponce and 12 from Coamo, * * * CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 39 is also on the military road, being the last point for changing horses in the relay ride from Ponce to San Juan. ■ Trails to Barros and Utuado bring coffee and tobacco from these points by means of the ubiquitous pack horse. Much work has been done and is still (May, 1899) being done on a wagon road from Ponce to Ad juntas, and when completed this well- situated little city will quickly spring into prominence as a coffee center. For years sturdy little ponies, laden with the pungent berry, have trudged through its narrow streets, bound for Yauco, Ponce, or Arecibo, but the poor roads about it have alwaj'^s kept it hidden from the vt'Orld. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports: Roads are most imx)ortant. Once off the military roads, streams must be forded, half loads on\j can be hauled, and there are several quite important little towns reached only by trail. Great improvements in these roads are in x3rogress. (The report was written May 12, 1899. ) About 13,000 men are repairing the main roads and building new ones. Bayamon. — The township is devoted i^artly to sugar and partlj^ to coffee, and the lack of roads has kept it all back. This is being rem- edied now, and the town will grow nicely. Navcuvjito ami Sahana Del Palma. — The country is very rough, and the trails are narrow and not improved in any way. The river Plata is usualljT^ fordable. Toa Bcija, its port, Dorado, and Vega Alia. — This section is flour- ishing and has fa^ir communications. RAILROADS; RAILROAD STOCKS, WHERE HELD; NUM- BER OF MILES CONSTRUCTED AND PROPOSED. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb says: It is presumed that this question will be fully answered from San Juan. It can be stated here that the com- pany known as the French Railroad Company has constructed a single- track line from San Juan west through Arecibo to Camuy. Here the rising ground, which continues to Aguadilla, made construction more difficult, and this part of the line, though surveyed, has not been com- pleted. The line commences again at Aguadilla and extends through Mayaguez to Hermigueros. Again comes a break in the line as far as Yauco. From this latter point the line is completed to Ponce. The name of the line is "The Puerto Rico Railway." Three classes of accommodations are i3rovided — first, second, and third. A special ticket is provided for military persons at something less than half the regular rates. The road is solidly built — steel and stone bridges and culverts, masonry supports, metal ties, stone ballast. The grade is quite irregula.r, and the road has many curves. The stock is gener- ally held in France, and I understand that it does not pay a dividend. Captain Mansfield reports, under date of May 30, 1899: The French Puerto Rican railroad, of meter gauge, extends from Mayaguez to Aguadilla, 28 miles; is projected to Arecibo, 31 miles farther, to con- nect with another branch of the same railroad extending to San Juan. There is a railroad extending from Afiasco, a station on the Puerto 40 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO, Rican railway, 5 miles north of Maj^agnez, toward San Sebastian and Lares, toward which points it is expected it will be completed. Some of the stock of this railroad is held by citizens of San Sebastian. No other railroad stock, so far as known, is held bj' citizens of Agua- dilla or anj^ other town in the district. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, tmder date of May 16, 1899, says: There are no railways in the district. One railway was to have been built from the playa of ISTaguabo into the Nagnabo Valley by a Mr. William Bass, of Brooklyn, IST. Y., bnt after the grade was finished for this road work was stopped on account of the line of way being on government land, and it is doubtful if it will ever be finished. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report without date (probably May or June, 1899), as follows: A narrow-guage railroad traverses the country between the towns of Aguadilla on the north to Hormigueros on the south, passing through Aguada, Rincon, Anasco, and Mayaguez, 58 kilometers. It follows the coast line from Aguac]illa to Mayaguez; from that i3oint to Hormigueros through the foothills. The roadbed is graded to San German, and it is reported that the compam' has resumed work on that part between San German and its present terminus. When it will be finished and in running order, or whether or not it is the present intention to complete the sahie to connect with the Yauco and Ponce branch, is not known, nor can it be definitelj'' ascertained here. This railroad is a French concern, entirelj^ managed by people in the interests of French stockholders, and the stock of this "flint-lock industry " being in the possession of people in France. For the- inter- ests of this island it would be most desirable if some enterjDrising American firm should freeze the present stockholders out and reor- ganize and comx^lete the line as originally foreshadowed and make it a paying investment. It is not a difficult engineering feet ; it can easilj^ be pushed through. All it wants is some money, skill, and a trifle of American energy to make it an accomplished fact. There is a branch railroad from Anasco to Lares and San Sebastian — that is, it was originally the intention to build it to the above-mentioned places, but it only succeeded in getting 6 miles out from Anasco, and is now tied up on the top of a hill called Alto Sano. There it hangs. This road, it was intended, should tap the rich coffee lands about San Sebastian and Lares. It can be bought reasonably (that is, it would require some figuring), and is or would be a paying investment if bought for what it is actually worth. The offices of this companj' are in Mayaguez; the general manager is in Mayaguez, and the stock or ownership of this mountain line will be found in this citj^, though it could not be ascertained directl3\ The line when completed will be 35 kilometers in length, presents no difficult engineering problem, and all the trade of the region tapped would come directly to the city and port of Maj^aguez. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook says : No railroads have been constructed in this judicial jurisdiction. The proposed railroad will touch San CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 41 German and Sabana Grande. It is graded from Hormigueros almost to Sabana Grande. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports: There is a narrow-gauge railroad from Ponce to Yauco, 23 miles, .with European engines and rolling stock, most of which was made in France. The rails are light, scarcely more than 50 pounds; the ties are metallic; the turntables, switches, etc., and fittings are old-fashioned. It is owned by the French rail- road comi3an3% with offices in Paris and San Juan, and most of the stock is owned in France. This companj^ has a franchise, and pro- poses to build a belt line around the island, about one-fifth of which is completed, but it will require several years to complete the line, and it will not pay for many years thereafter. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant / Blunt reports, under date of May 12, 18&9: Railroads extend from San Juan to Carolina and west to Arecibo along the coast. This road is owned and operated by Frenchmen, and its equipment is French. The roadbed, bridges, and grades are excellent. It is single track, with iron ties and rather light rails. The rolling stock is in good condition. There are two suburban roads — San Juan to Rio Piedras and Catano to Bayamon — both of which should have elec- tric power, both for economy and better service. The former has recently come into American hands (price unknown) and promises of great improvements are already made. The mileage of the French roads in this district is 44 miles; of the other roads, Smiles and 6 miles, respectively. WATER POWER. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb says : All these streams (Rio Grande, Tanama, Rio Limon, Rio Arecibo, and the Rio Caunilla) are of rapid fall and furnish a never-failing power. West of Arecibo, in the Camuy district, is the Camuy River, another mountain stream furnishing abundant water and power. It rises southeast of Lares, flows northerly to the sea, cutting deeply through its limestone walls. Through a part of its course it passes under the unbroken limestone and becomes a lost river. Forming the boundary between the districts of Quebradillas and Isabela is the Guajataca River, another mountain stream of rapid fall and abundant flow. The Arecibo, south of coastal plain, and the Tanama, the Limon, the Caunilla, the Vivi, and, in fact, all its branches; the Camuj^ River, the Guajataca, the* Cibao (branch of Guajataca) can all furnish water power. The rainfall is so abundant that any mountain stream may be de- pended uj)on for water power. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLO. Captain Mansfield says: Available water power is considerable along the Guajataca River, in the northeast section of the district. 42 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO KICO. and the varioiTS branches of the Auasco and Culebrina, about Lares and San Sebastian, and the Culebrina itself, in the vicinity of Moco and Aguadilla, and several small streams about Rincon. The amount of water power varies at different seasons of thej^ear. Some of it has been utilized in the past. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster reports, under date of June 28, 1899 : La Plata, the longest river in the island, traverses the district, and would afford water power at almost any point of its course. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: The RioBlanca would furnish very great water power. It is a stream 50 feet wide, with an average depth of 3 feet; falls 2,000 feet in 2 miles of its length, being in places a succession of small cataracts and rapids. This river rises on the south side of El Yunque, the highest point of the Luquilio Mountains, and flows southward into ISTaguabo Valley, where it turns east and empties into the ocean at the Playa of Naguabo, on the Bay of Humacao. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports-- The water power is most excellent all over the island. By a system of dams and reservoirs, easily constructed, the water could be utilized in a dozen different ways — for sugar mills, coffee (mills), electric lights, electric roads, all kinds of manufactur- ing, and irrigating purposes when necessarj^ in certain localities. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. There is only one small water i30wer in San German, on a coffee plantation. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : ■ There is no available water power in the district, principally because of the A'ariable amount of water in the streams. At times this water rushes with such a sudden and violent force and in such an increased volume that no machinery could stand against it, and masonry provision against this increase would cost so much as to make it prohibitive. A short time ago the Rio Portugues, when "up," swept a 200-foot steel wagon bridge from its abutments and deposited it some 200 feet downstream, although the bed of this bridge was 20 feet from mean height of water and was strongly anchored to the masonry abutments. To-day, at the end of the dry season, one can walk dry-shod on stones across this stream. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports, under date of May 12, 1899: There is plenty of water power in the principal streams. None is used at pres- ent. Rio Piedras supplies the city of San Juan and suburbs with what water is there used. The rivers Loiza, Bayamon, Plata, and Negro CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 43 all liave plenty of fall and witli dams plenty of water to afford great power. Fresliets would make strong and expensive dams necessary. The absence of coal renders this form of jjower so necessary that the increased expense would be a small consideration. Naranjito and Sabana del Palma: The river Plata is usually ford- able, but has a great amount of water for supply and power. POPULATION, KNOWN OR ESTIMATED, CHAR- ACTER OF. I PUERTO RICO AS AN ISLAND. Major Glassford makes.no specific report under this head, though sotae of his general statements relate indirectly to it. (See '"Civic conditions.") Captain Macomb, in his report on the district of Arecibo, says : The population of the island is estimated at some 800,000 persons. Of this far the greater portion, say eight-tenths, is in the interior; more thickly settled near small villages, but cabins and rude homes are encountered everywhere. It is usually stated that the white race is in excess in tlie island, and where a distinction is made between negro and white this is true. But mam^ of the so-called white race have a decided color — a reddish brown not unlike the color of those persons in the United States who have more or less Indian blood. In this case it is not Indian blood, as we are told that the original inhabitants of the island perished within the fifty years following the Spanish colonization. It is not a negro strain, for the hair is, though usually called black, a deep brown, straight and lanky. The features, too, are not negritic. Did we not know it were impossible, it would be said these people have an Asiatic origin. The color is probably Moorish and due to the intermixture of the Spanish and Moors over a thousand years ago. One frequently encounters Spaniards recently from the old country with as decided a color as those described. The island has manj'^ negroes and mulattoes, being the emancipated slaves and their descendents. The ignorance of the laboring classes is beyond America^n compre- hension. Reading and writing are unknown to them. Their food is less nourishing than that of convicts in our most severe penitentiaries — food that would sustain life in an idle ]3erson, but which means aufemia and slow starvation to the workingman, whose tissues recjuire daily renewal. The wages of the " j)eon," the farm laborer, is from 2 to 4 reals — that is, from 15 to 30 cents, American money — per working day. These peons are usually married and have families, sometimes more than one wife. I say "married," but the legal ceremony has in many cases been omitted from the entire lack of means with which to pay the charges of the priest and the government. These wages are not generally spent in the towns or cheaper mar- kets, but at the store of the farm where the peons are employed. At these stores the prices are in excess of those obtainable in the towns, but it is im^DOSsible for the workman to go so far to spend his little money. 44 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. From these causes the poorer people are constantlj" verging on starvation, and any check to their worlv brings about this condition. Sucli a check has recently (the report is without date, but was received at deiDartment headquarters June 30, 1899) occurred — one result of the Spanish- American war. Naturally the proprietors did not put as much land into cultivation the past year as usual. They could not be sure of garnering their crops with marching troops on the island, and they could not be sure of a market with Spanish ports closed to them and American ports not yet opened. Besides, the lives and iDroperty of the Spanish iDro- prietors were not secure in the time of changing flags. But the people — and I discuss the poor, working class — ai^e, upon the whole, a gentle, patient, uncomplaining lot, living in ignorance and penury, generally polite, and willing to work in a plodding, unde- monstrative way. Their very gentleness has permitted the unjust scale of wages thej^ receive to become the custom. ' Partly this and the demands of the Spanish Government of the pro- prietors have forced them to reduce the wages to their present unjust scale. In the United States general education and the newspapers and labor unions forever prevent auy such abuse. The crjdng need of the island is education, and then more education. Estimated ijopulation of Arecibo, Hatillo, Camuy, Quebradillas, and Isahela. Juris- dictipn. Town. Arecibo Hatillo Camuy Quebradillas . isabela 38,000 13,000 14, 000 14,000 14,000 8,000 600 1,000 3,200 1,500 Character of population: Generally of laboring classes, known as peons, working for the farm owners; uneducated, quiet, and content. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports: The district of Aguadilla contains the towns of — Quebradillas, population 800 Isabela, population _ . . . 900 Lares, population ... 2, 000 San Sebastian, population _ - 1, 400 Rincon, population - 500 Aguada, population , . - 600 Aguadilla, population . — 6, 000 The total population of the district given b}^ the last census, some years ago, was 83,000, but it is estimated from reports furnished me as now being at least 85,000. This includes towns and country. The character of the population is reported as good and hospitable. From mj^ own observations, after frequently meeting all classes and visiting the interior, I have concluded that the mass of the population is revj ignorant, so much so as to be dangerous if improperly dealt with bj^ designing and unscruiDulous persons. I say this because only 12 or 13 per cent of the iDopulation of the whole island can both read and write, while 1.8 per cent more can only read. It must be assumed that the majorit}^ of those who know how to read and write live in the CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 45 large towns, leaving qnite a small percentage — excepting large plant- ers, not over 5 per cent — in the country who know how to read, and write. It has been stated by Mr. Mniioz Rivera that only abont 40 per cent of the population have colored blood in their veins. To get such a per- centage octoroons and perhaps even some (luadroons must be classed as white, for I hardly think anj^ intelligent man who has been among the people much will fail to credit 60 to 70 per cent_of the population at least as having colored blood in their veins, and that seems like a low estimate. If no one with less colored blood than half-blood is counted as colored, of course 40 per cent would be a fair estimate and would include negroes. The people seem willing to 'work, even at starvation wages, and they seem to be docile and grateful for anything done for them" They are emotional, apt to make idols of some one of their number, and be led about by him only to pull him to pieces later on. When American ideas are once inculcated into the people they will never let go of them and will benefit by them. It will be hard, however, to eradicate the evils of centuries in a few years, but it will require a long time. They must be educated, not alone by books, but by coming more in contact with the rest of the world. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster reports, under date .of June 28, 1899: The popula- tion of the district of Gayey is about 14,000, and of this number about 3,500 live in the city. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: The townships comprising the district and their population are : Humacao 15. 000 Fajardo - 10,000 Naguabo --. 10,000 Yabticoa 13, 000 Maunabo ,_... 5,000 In the towns themselves, according to a census recenth^ taken, the population is estimated to be as follows: Humacao . ..- 6, 000 Fajardo .... 2,500 Naguabo.- .. 1,000 Yabucoa 2,050 Maunabo 400 Patillas 1,000 Luquillo - 600 The people here are very poor. The majority of them obtain their livelihood working in large plantations, but the wages received by them are scarcely sufficient to subsist them. Recently a great many have been receiving relief from the Government at the rate of 10 cen- tavos per day, allowed by recent orders. This, however, has been stopped, and ail the alcaldes of the district have been directed to act accordingly. Class distinctions are very closely drawn, there being but few rich and many in dire poverty. 46 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports (without date) as follows: The district of Mayaguez embraces a jurisdiction of nearly 30,000 inhabitants, mostly white. * * * A recent election, if it may be so designated, attaches Hormigueros to Mayaguez for municipal and road jurisdiction; in all, about 120,000 inhabitants in the department or subdistrict of Mayaguez. The department was established before the conquest of the island and has not been changed. Mayaguez (city) has a population of about 25,000. Hormigueros, population of about 500. Anasco, ijopulation of about 3,000. San German, population of 8,000. Sabana Grande, population about 5,000, composed of white, black, and those of mixed blood. Maricao, population of 7,000, composed of all classes known on the island. Las Marias, population of 700. Lajas, population of about 500. Cabo Rojo, population about 3,000; that of the jurisdiction about 16,000. In a supplementary report, submitted by the alcalde of Mayaguez, it is stated : The city of Mayaguez contains 37,983 inhabitants, classified as fol- lows: 25,108 white, 9,275 mulattoes, and 3,600 negroes. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports as follows: Population known is as follows : Jurisdiction of San German .- - _-. , .. 19,802 Jurisdiction of Cabo Rojo , . - 15, 657 Jurisdiction of Sabana Grande - . 10, 087 Jurisdiction of Lajas - - 8, 125 Total -- 53,671 The judicial jurisdiction of San German has one city, San German, with population 5,321; three towns, Sabana Grande, with population 2,100; Lajas, with population 350; Cabo Rojo, with population 3,000. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Blunt reports the population of the cities in the district is as follows, the figures being from the census of 1898: Ponce -- -- 24.654 Yauco .- -..- 8,000 Coamo - 6,000 JuanaDiaz ..- 4,000 Aibonito 3,000 Adjuntas . 3,000 Guayanilla.,. . 3,000 Peiiuelas --.. 800 Guanica . . 500 Whole district 300,000 Of these, about 20,000 are native Spaniards, 270,000 are native Puerto Ricans, and 10,000 are natives of St. Thomas, Cuba, and other neighboring islands. Excepting those in the Armj^, there are but few Americans in the CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 47 district, probablj" not more than 1,000, but this number is constantly increasing. Spanish is the common language of the people, but many are learn- ing English, and in nearly every business house and store there is at least one person wlio speaks English. The natives are laz}- and dirty, but are very sharp and cunning, and the introduction of American ideas disturbs them but little, they being indifferent to the advantages offered. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports, under date of Maj^ 12, 1899: The population of this district is about 95,000. A very small num- ber are foreigners, i:)robabl3^ not over 4,000. These figures are based on various censuses, 1896, 1897, and 1898, and the foreign x3opulation now is greatly increased. All tji^es of black and white are mixed here. In the back country the Spanish and Puerto Rican blood seems to have been kept purer; in the city the mixture of negroes and north of Europe whites with the natives gives rise to every gradation of color. Rio Piedras, about 8 miles from San Juan, * * * has a popu- lation of about 11,000 in the township and nearly 2,000 in the pueblo itself. Carolina, with a population of 10,200, is an important sugar and cattle center. The townships of Rio Grande and Loiza together contain about 6,000 people. Baj^^amon, another suburban town, has a pueblo population of 2,500, with about 5,000 more in the country around. Naranjito and Sabana Del Palma: The towns are small and unim- portant; the total population is about 11,000. Corosal and Toa Alta : The i3opulation of these sections is about 7,600, and these people seem rougher than those elsewhere. Toa Baja, its port, Dorado, and the village of Vega Alta : The total population is estimated at 11,000. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports: Vieques has a population of five or six thousand; Culebra, eight or nine hundred. About 1,000 are English- speaking negroes imported from neighboring islands to harvest the sugar-cane crops. (For description of population, conditions, etc., see heading " Civic conditions.") VITAL STATISTICS. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports, under date of May 30, 1899: Available vital statistics: There were 3,006 births in the district the past year and 2,680 deaths. This gives a j)ercentage of 37 and 31, respectively. The number of illegitimate births is 25 ijer cent for the district. The town of Lares, however, reports that the illegitimate births are 33 per cent of the total, and the alcalde of Aguadilla reports that in this town the rate of illegitimate births is 50 per cent. 48 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. These figures are large, but, on inquiry, am told that they are about correct, as it has been difficult for people to get married without great expense. A great many of those reported as illegitimate births are the children of couples that have been living together as man and wife for manj^^ years. There were 399 marriages during the past year. The chief causes of death are given in the order named : Consumption, -ansemia (re- ported as lack of proper food), typhus fever, jaundice, bronchitis, pneumonia, and smallpox. In closing this report I wish particularly to emphasize the fact that anaemia is given as one of the chief causes of disease and death in this district. I have called it " ansemia," but in receiving reports from the eight different towns and villages of this district it is reported as ' ' lack of proper food "^ — in other words, starvation. In only one place was the word anaemia used. It properly has first place, though I have given it second. It seems hard that there should be suffering for want of proper food on an island so rich, fertile, and xjroductive. My own observation to a large extent confirms the reports of the lack of proper food. The countr}^ people live mostlj^ on bananas, yams, and rice, and fresh pork when they can get it, which generally they can not, for they have not the means to buy it and do not raise enough of their own. The people in the large towns are better off, as they have more work, get more fish, and some meat. If all could get employment, of course the conditions of the masses would be improved. Just at present the question of money exchange has much to do with the masses. (See remarks under "Civic Conditions.") DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster makes no report. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: Vital statistics are well kept by the municipalities, whose records run back for many j'^ears. The following is a list of the deaths in this city during the following months of this year: January, 49; February, 32; March, 39; April, 28— total, 148. Births: January, 27; February, 21; March, 30; April, 12— total, 90. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports: City of Mayaguez : The rate of mortality is low, the births exceed- ing the deaths by 50 per cent. The rate of mortality in each district (jurisdiction or township) is not known, but it is far less than the birth rate. The population is increasing fast. In a few years this island will be overcrowded. No immigration from the different islands should be allowed or encour- aged. Only Americans should be permitted to come here and enter into business. All other classes, kinds, and color should be excluded from this time forward. The healthf ulness of thi s district is shown by the low rate of mortality. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 49 SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Principal diseases are ansemia, smallpox, malarial and typhus fevers, tuberculosis, tetanus (infantile). San German San German (1897) Cabo Rojo (average 4 years) . Lajas (average of 3 years) -.. Births. Deaths. 650 930 684 6.52 640 491 320 228 DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eanies reports : Records for the city of Ponce, which are typical for the district, show for the calendar year 1898: Births, 1,164; deaths, 1,826, or a percentage of about 4 deaths to each 100 inhabitants, as these figures are based upon the population of the jurisdiction of Ponce, which has about 49,000 inhabitants. Consumption, nutritive diseases, and syphilitic diseases are the most common. Ponce has just (the report Vas written in May, 1899) been through an epidemic of smallpox, but the very low death rate would seem to point out the fact that this disease is not as virulent here as it is in the United States. B}' far the greatest number of deaths are of children under 12 years of age. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt, under date of May 12, 1899, says: Vital statistics are unknown. No records were kept by the Spanish local government. It is stated bj^ local physicians that the death rate is low, except in San Juan, where it is above the normal for a city of its size. The lack of bathing facilities and the general absence of sewers and water supply are everywhere noticeable. Water was an article of luxury rather than of necessity. SCHOOLS. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports : Arecibo. — In town, 3 private (a kindergarten), 5 public; in the dis- tricts, 1 district school in each of 18 barrios (townships). But the schools have not (at date of report, June, 1899) sufficient books or appliances for proper education. Much is being done by the Ameri- can authorities, but still more remains to be done. Hatillo. — In town, 1 school; rural, 1 in each of 15 barrios. Camuy. — In town, 2 schools; rural, 1 in each of 17 barrios. Quehrachllas. — In town, 2 schools; rural, 1 in each of 15 barrios. Isahela. — In town, 2 schools; rural, 1 in each of 15 barrios. The crying need of the island is education, and then more educa- tion. The ignorance of the laboring class is beyond American com- prehension. Reading and writing are unknown to them. 13100 4 50 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captaiu Mansfield reports under date of May 30, 1899: There are 38 public seliools in the district; the number of schol- ars in them is :2,308, of whom 599 are girls. There are 5 private schools, with 140 pupils, of whom 95 are girls. There are 57 school- teachers, of whom 3 are women. The state of education is backward, and all alcaldes report it as being "behind the times." I certainly believe this to be true, as from my observation there are no schools that would in the United States be called such. There are no school houses or buildings. Rooms are rented for school purposes by the towns, which are generally behind in the pay- ment of rent as well as salaries. There will have to be an entire reform in the educational system. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, says: There are quite a number of schools, but the general educational conditions are deplorable, a large proportion of the population being unable to read and write. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says; There has been improvement in the public schools of this district since they have been under the supervision of General Eaton. Each schoolhouse has been presented with an American flag, which the pupils have been taught to revere and cherish. Mixed schools for both boys and girls, like" those in the United States, to which we are accustomed, are unknown. Many of the instructors never even heard of such schools. The state of education has been very backward. Scarcely 20 per cent are of the educated class. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. The report of Major Thomas, undated, but made in May or June, 1899, states: The school system of the district is at a low ebb. Only a few public schools and no private ones of any description. Those in outlying localities are in low, obscure, ramshackle concerns called "casitas," and are patronized by a number of half-clad, barefoot, bareheaded urchins from 4 to 10 years old. The same remark applies to the school for girls. The schools for boys and girls are entirely separate and under the control of men and women teachers, respectively. There are no public-school buildings. Xothing has ever been accom- plished looking to that end, the people here being satisfied with what was already provided : children of people having means were always sent away for educational purposes, the Spanish people, as a class, not lending jiny encouragement to the i3ublic-school system. There has been quite an improvement in the matter of attendance and management of the schools since January last. In all I visited I found many bright little fellows, though in rags, evidently anxious to gain knowledgeand to become familiar with the English language. The cities and towns of this district should be forced to build suit- T!ONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 51 able sclioolhouses and compulsory education enforced in all places — " shoes or no shoes." In a supplement to Major Thomas' report the alcalde of Mayaguez says: There are the following schools (in the Jurisdiction of Maya- guez) : One for girls, 25 elementary schools, also a night school for adults; besides, tiie city has a college of secondary instruction, called the Lyceum of Mayaguez, and another of primarj^ and secondary instruction, recently established under the name of "Municipal Insti- tute," and several other priv^ate schools for j'oung children. In a report from the alcalde of Cabo Rojo he saj^s: Public instruc- tion in this locality has 11 primary, 2 elementary, 8 county (country), and 1 private schools. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports: There are 12 public schools in San German, 8 for males and 4 for females, and 2 private schools for males; Sabana Grande has 5 public schools, 4 for males and 1 for females; Cabo Rojo has 11 public schools, 8 for males and 1 for females; Lajas has 6 public schools, 5 for males and 1 for females. State of educa- tion in town is fair; in the country low. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports in May, 1899: In each citj^ of the district is at least 1 public school, and in Ponce (including the jurisdiction of Ponce) are 42 public schools and 7 pri- vate ones, 1 of the public schoola being a large school where English is taught by American school-teachers, under the able guidance and organization of Chaplain Sutherland, of the Nineteenth United States Infantry. About 3,000 scholars attend school daily the year through, except- ing the several Christmas holidays and on fiestas, or holidays, of which there are manj^ There are about 1,000 truants, sick, etc., who average two or three days in the week only. The school hours are from 8 to 11 and from 1 to 3. Generally speaking, the poorer classes, which are of course the more numerous, are illiterate, but among these a great many can both read and write besides having some knowledge of arithmetic. This is due to a curriculum peculiar^ adapted to a people who have little time or inclination for schooling. They are first taught reading and writing and the elementary part of arithmetic, together with the geography of Puerto Rico, and formerlj^ of Spain, now that of the United States. Then, if the student can continue, other subjects are taken up, and those already begun are enlarged upon, the idea being that if a pupil can spend Ijut one year in school at the end of that time he can read and write sufficiently well for practical purposes, and as each succeeding year passes what he has learned has been com- plete ; and if he leaves in the middle of a season or at the end of the first semester he does not leave v\dth a lot of studies begun, but, each semester being complete in itself, he leaves it with a complete knowl- edge of the subjects studied, albeit the number and extent of the studies may have been very limited. It is but a refinement of the old "Three R's" curriculum of the district school. 62 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt, under date of May 12, 1899, says: Public schools are general, those for boys and girls being separate. The instruction is largely oral and the text-books primitive. Already the English language is everywhere taught. The general state of education is low. In the country it is unusual to find a person who can read and write, ex(!ept the verj^ easiest matter. The Spanish lan- guage is not spoken jjurely; many pronunciations and constructions are Puerto Rican and hardly recognizable to educated Spaniards. The schools in the city (of San Juan) consist of 18 public and 1 pri- vate, with an enrollment of 1,478 scholars. This explains the lack of education. Of about 8,000 children of school age onlj^ about one-sixth attend school. There is 1 high school, low grade compared to ours. Rio Piedras has 3 schools. Rio Grande and Loiza have schools. Toa Baja has several schools and 1 church. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports, under date of April 25, 1899: The schools are, like everything else, created principally for the benefit of the teachers rather than the children. There are 6 'public schools on the island — 2 in the town and 4 in the country — supported by the municipal government, but, as far as I can learn, accomplish nothing. Attendance is not compulsory, which would have to be the case if any of the lower-class children attended. CITIES AND TOWNS. Available Maps and Prints. district of arecibo, Captain Macomb reports : The town of Arecibo is an important center, being the natural out- let for all the northwest third of the island. The products of Lares, Camuy, Hatillo, and Barceloneta, though retarded hy bad roads, force their way through to the port of Arecibo. A new wagon road is being iDUshed through to Ponce, following gen- erally the line of the Rio Grande. This central road of the island will rival in importance the military road from Ponce to San Juan, With this road and the electric railway up the Rio Grande and the new road being opened to the rich little town of Lares in operation, Arecibo's future is bright. But the port is at present treated by visiting vessels as a mere open roadstead, no proper protection existing against the northeast breezes. On this account vessels lie well out with steam up, prepared to slip anchor and go to sea upon the appearance of a storm. All this can be avoided bj^ improving the harbor as indicated on the inclosed plan. With the large amount of stone available in the so-called "Signal- station hill" it is believed that an economical breakwater can be constructed. If this is done and the river dredged so as to afford a depth of 3 feet in the channel from its mouth to the town, the business of the port will rapidly increase. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 53 The town of Arecibo is built upon a sandstone deposit just west of tlie mouth of the Rio Grande de Arecibo. This sandstone is imper- fect and seems to be an old sand hill, in which the particles of sand are slightly bound bj^ a bond of limestone. The view from the town is a beautiful one, raised as it is above the general surface. Landward the northern face of the table-land forms an amphitheater some 4 or 5 miles distant, in which the middle distance is covered with brilliant green cane, with the Rio Grande tracing through its center a winding line of silver. This entire section from Arecibo westward daily receives the north- east breezes from the ocean. It is salubrious and rarely unpleasantly warm. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. All the towns are built on the usual Spanish sj^stem of a central plaza, upon which face the church and the ciiy hall or alcaldia. In the city of Arecibo the streets about the plaza and along the principal roads, east, west, and south, are macadamized. In the poorer parts they are sandy, without pavements or sidewalks. On the better streets the sidewalks are generally very narrow and of a cement con- glomerate. The central plaza is very pretty, with a fountain and growing flow- ers. Size, 300 by 150 feet. The buildings facing on the plaza are usually adobe, covered with cement or a gravel conglomerate; else- where wood prevails. In the other towns mentioned (Barceloneta, Hatilla, Camuy, Que- bradillas, and Isabela) the paved streets are those through which the coast road passes. Public or semipublic institutions mentioned by Captain Macomb in his list of merchants, professions represented, etc. , town of Arecibo : One hospital; 1 market; fire department — 1 old pump and a new fire engine ; 1 theater — capacity, 600 persons ; 1 lifeboat and 1 life-saving station; 1 cemetery — 2 in country. Table of distances. From Arecibo. on coast road west, to— Miles. Hatillo-..' - --- - ---- --- 7i Camtiy River bridge 8J Camuy - 8f Quebradillas .-- 16i Guajataca - 18i Isabela - 23^ Aguadilla - - - 35 From Arecibo, on coast road southeast of town, to — Barceloneta --- 14| Manati --- -- 19i Vega Bajo -- 27 Dorado - - - - 35i Bayamon,. .-- 44^ From Arecibo. on south road, to — Tanama - - - ^i Joboa (not given. ) Utuado - 32 Adjuntas - - — — 31 Ponce - 45 From Arecibo, on old Lares road, to— Pajuil --- .-...-- --- — 6 Crossing, Camuy River 10 Callejones .- - 17 Guajataca bridge .- - - 23i Lares - - - 24 54 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO KICO. From Arecibo to — Miles. Lares, new road ._ 20 San Sebastian - --. 39 Moca 39 Aguadilla .-- - - .,- 44 From Arecibo to — Lares ... 24 Las Marias ..-..,. 37^ Mayagnez .' 53 From Camu3' to — Lares via Hatillo 19^ Piedra Gorda 7 Los Pnertos 9 San Sebastian ... 19^ From Camny los Pnertos to Lares ... 22 From Quebradillas to Piedra Gorda. . . 6 DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports, under date of May 30, 1899, the district of Aguadilla contains : Quebradillas, population . 800 Isabela, population 900 Lares, population •. 2, 000 San Sebastian, population , 1, 400 Rincon, population 500 Aguada. population . . 600 Aguadilla, population ... .-. 6,000 Aguadilla is the largest town in the district, and is a seaport town with an excellent deep-water harbor; a breakwater only on the north side is necessary for protection. The water slioals just where the breakwater is necessary, and there is rock and other building material to be had riglit on the shore within a few hundred yards. The water is quite deep -right up to shore ; the expense of building a break- water would be comi)aratively small, and would be less than that needed to protect almost any other harbor on tliis island other than those that are landloclced. Aguadilla is the natural port for the whole district, and would be such with good communications with the interior. There are several large firms, shippers of coffee and importers of all kinds of goods. Lares is the next largest town in the district, and is back in the mountains, IS or 20 miles from the sea, and at an elevation of 1,900 or 2,000 feet. It is almost inaccessible at present in any way except on horseback. It is in the midst of a very rich coffee district. San Sebastian is the next largest town, and is 14 miles east of Aguadilla and 9 miles west of Lares; it has an elevation of some 1,400 feet and is also in a coffee district, and is near the Culebrina River. It is very prettily located. Has several large firms who deal in coffee. Moca is a village on the road from San Sebastian to Aguadilla, 9 miles from the former and 5 miles from the latter; it is in a coffee and also a sugar district. The Salvador- Amell sugar plantation, worth about 350,000 pesos, is near Moca, and is fitted with modern machinery for making sugar by the centrifugal process. It also has water power near at hand from the Culebrina River. Aguada is on the railway from Aguadilla to Mayagnez, and is sup- posed to be the oldest town on the island. There is little coffee there, but many cocoanuts, peanuts, guava, and firewood. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 55 Rincoii is 7 miles south of Aguada, and a station on the I*uerto Rioan Railway. It is a small village. There is mnch sugar raised about there, also many cocoanuts, sweet potatoes, etc. Quebradilla is on a hill aboiit 1 mile east of the Guajacata River, and on the mail route from Aguadilla to Arecibo. It is a small place. There is mucli tobacco, some sugar, some coffee, and many peanuts raised there, and also yams and sweet potatoes. Isabela is the fourth toAvn in size in the district, and is on high ground on the north coast, near the sea. Some coffee is raised about there, and considerable sugar and much tobacco. It is a compara- tively dry locality, where sometimes in tlie dry season there is consid- erable' drought, and there are no running streams or springs there, the population being dependent on wells and cisterns for water. Around Quebradillas and San Sebastian there has been during the past year much destruction of property and pillaging of coffee planta- tions. It is impossible at present to get any maps and pri]its, especially such as would be of value. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster makes no report. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, says: In the towns them- selves, according to a census recently taken, the population is esti- mated to be as follows : Humacao - 6,000 Fajardo-. --- - 2,500 Naguabo • --- -- 1.000 Yabucoa. 2,050 Manuabo - --- 400 Patillas - 1,000 Luquillo 600 DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report, without date, as follows: The following cities or towns are included and belong to the district of Mayaguez: Anasco, Cabo Rojo, Hormigueros, Las Marias, Lajas, Maricao, Mayaguez, San German, Sabana Grande, and a recent elec- tion, if it may be so designated, attaches Hormigueros to Mayaguez for municipal and road jurisdiction; in all, about 120,000 inhabitants in the department or subdistrict of Mayaguez. The department is as established before the conquest of the island, and has not been changed. Mayaguez. — Mayaguez possesses the only street-car system on the island, which raises her to a unique position in this respect. This line answers the purpose very well, is economically managed, and renders fairly good service. It also has an electric-light plant, ice plant, cigar manufactory, three coffee houses, and a water system. It is a modern, healthy city, and is considered to be the cleanest city on the island; has a population of about 25,000. Daily mail to San Juan and communication by sea with the capital, though irregular and uncertain as to time of arrival and dejjarture of boats. 56 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. The rate of mortality is low, the births exceeding the deaths bj^ 50 per cent. It needs a suitable wharf. This should be constructed as soon as possible, as upon this depends in a large measure the future prosperity of the city. It has a bank that does a regular banking business, besides a savings bank patronized b^^ poor people. There seems to be a good opening for a bank with solid capital, money commanding 1 per cent a month (island currency) on all loans, mortgages, notes, and money advanced on croj) prospects, on the best of securities. The merchants themselves do quite a banking business necessarily in the dealings with the planters and freighters in the country districts. Mayaguez has a good open roadstead, where the largest ships can with safety anchor free from danger during the prevalent north winds. Everything has to be loaded and unloaded by lighters, thus adding to the exiDenses, which could be obviated bj' the construction of a steel wharf at a small expense. Mayaguez has a population of nearly 25,000 and the following manufactures: Three machines for shelling, cleaning and polishing coffee, 2 foundries, 3 distilleries for distilling rum, 4 liquor manufac- tories of all kinds of liquor, 2 brickyards, 2 carri£i,ge manufactories, and 1 planing and turning mill. Agricultural interests as follows: One central sugar manufactory, 16 large sugar manufactories, 22 large coffee farms, 145 small coffee farms, and 371 small farms for the small fruits. Its bonded indebtedness not known, but supposed to be small. Rate of taxation not known; not yet clearlj" defined, and it will not be so for some time (this was written in Maj^ or June, 1899) — not until regulated by future orders. All kinds of business represented — coffee, sugar, rum, and tobacco, mercantile business houses, wholesale and retail; dry goods, groceries, shops of all kinds, drug stores, small restaurants, liquor sellers, law- yers, attorneys, doctors, surgeons, sailors, hat and shirt makers, dress- makers, shoemakers, civil engineers, wine shops, livery stables, watch- makers, jewelry establishments, pawnshops, bakeries, tin shops, pho- tographers, butchers, barbershops, billiard rooms, casinos, and chicken fighters. Hormigueros. — Population about 500. Agricultural interests are as follows: Nine large sugar manufactories, 9 small coffee farms, and 184 small farms for raising small fruits of the island. Bonded indebtedness, none. Rate of taxation not known ; it belongs to Mayaguez for taxation purposes. Merchants, grocery men, butch- ers, and bakers are here represented. Anasco. — Population about 3,000. Agricultural interests as follows : Sixteen large sugar manufactories, 7 large coffee farms, 103 small coffee farms, 500 small fruit farms, small fruit of the island; mer- chants, grocerymen, and all kinds of business represented; lawj^ers, doctors, and freighters. Bonded indebtedness not known. Rate of taxation not known. San German. — Population, 8,000. Agricultural interests are as fol- lows: Eight large sugar manufactories and 30 coffee farms. Bonded indebtedness not known. Rate of taxation not known. Sahana Grrande. — Population about 5,000, composed of white, black, and those of mixed blood. Agricultural interests are as follows : Five large sugar manufactories ; 6 large coffee farms ; 25 small coffee farms ; 464 small farms devoted to fruit raising. Bonded indebtedness not known. Rate of taxation not known. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 57 Maricao. — Population 7,000, eoiiiposed of all classes known on this island. Agricultural interests as follows: Ninety-five large coffee farms and 153 small coffee farms. Bonded indebtedness not known. Las Mai-ias. — PoiDulation, 700. A fine coffee region, having coffee interests as follows : Fortj^-four large coffee farms and 397 small coffee farms. Bonded indebtedness not known. Rate of taxation not known. Lajas. — Population of about 500. Agricultural interests as follows : Nine large sugar manufactories; 9 small coffee farms; 624 small fruit farms devoted to the cultivation of the small fruits of the island. Bonded indebtedness of this town not known. Rate and system of taxation not known. Caho Rqjo. — Population about 3,000; that of jurisdiction about 16,000. Agricultural interests are as follows: Twenty-six large sugar manufactories; 892 small fruit farms. It has several cigar-making establishments in the town, besides the usual number of ordinary merchants and business men of all kinds found in a small town. Bonded indebtedness not known. Rate of taxation not known. The towns enumerated above are the principal ones in this district. The}' are the centers of judicial jurisdiction, the inhabitants near each town being under the jurisdiction of that municipality. They all have post-offices, and nearly all have telegraph lines connecting with the headquarters of the district at Mayaguez and the capital. The rate of mortality in each district is not known, but it is far less than the birth rate. The population is increasing fast ; in a few years this island will be overcrowded. The alcalde of Mayaguez, in a supplementary report submitted by Major Thomas, saj^s : Mayaguez is a city with an important jurisdiction. It extends north to Anasco, northeast to Las Marias and Maricao, east to San German, and southeast to Cabo Rojo. Its climate is mild and its sanitary con- ditions good. Its sanitary condition will improve Avhen some of the swamps adjacent to the town have been drained. The rainy season generally lasts nine months, the rainfall amount- ing in some j^ears to from 2.10 meters to 2.20 meters (equal to 82.68 to 86.62 inches) and in other years from 1.50 to 1.70 meters (equal to 59.05 to 66.93 inches). Within the jurisdiction of Mayaguez there are no mines, although some carbonates of iron are supposed to exist. It possesses handsome, though not extensive, forests, such as man- goes, alj^arrobos, jaguas, jacanas, guamcis, aguacates, jobos, iicares capaes, aceitillds, and many others, which are suitable for building purposes and for fuel. The soil is productive. Its coast lands are composed of argil, sand, lime, and surface soil, this last component being generally abundant in the land, owing to its greater or less distance from the sea. Coffee is produced in abundance and is considered to be one of the best varieties in the world. All of its lands are suitable for planting sugarcane, there also being some plains (vegas) where "middling" tobacco is groTvii. Some of the smaller fruits are also grown, such as sweet oranges, cocoanuts, pineapples, etc., that with cheap and convenient means of trans]3ortation would form imj)ortant items for export. As to the true condition of i^roperties, coffee, and small fruits, it may be stated positively that they are at a comparative standstill. This is due to several causes occurring previous to the war, which it 58 CONDITIONS 1^ PUERTO RICO. is unnecessary to enumerate here, causing a feeling of uncertainty in business circles. The almost complete stagnation in trade, embarrassing mercantile firms, made it nearly impossible for landowners to plant or to obtain credit for the last two or three years. The principal crops are sugar and coffee, although sugar is compar- atively low to what it was formerly. The establishment of an agricultural bank would be a convenience, and a ready market for fruits would assist materially. Spain or Cuba does not consume coffee, as formei'ly. As to inland transportation, it is comparativelj' poor in the whole jurisdiction. Roads available for the conversance of fruits become almost impassable in the rainy season, resulting in increased costs, consequently increasing the value of the products of the soil, prevent ing healthy competition with other countries. It is also an obstacle against small fruits reaching the city in suffi- cient quantities to meet the demand. The city of Mayaguez contains 37,983 inhabitants, classified as fol- lows: 25,108 white, 9,275 mulattoes, and 3,300 negroes. There are the following public schools : One for girls, 25 elementary schools; also a night school for adults. Besides, the city has a col- lege of secondary instruction, called the Lyceum of Mayaguez, and another, of primary and secondary instrnction, recently established under the name of "Municipal Institute," and several other private schools for young children. There is a post-ofiice situated at the corner of Pearl and La Rosa streets. An electric plant furnishes the citj'' lights hy contract with the council board. It also provides light for private dwellings, an elec- tric light generally acceptable. A telephone line is established in the town. There is a telegraph office for the convenience of the public; office is near the pla^^a. The city is supplied with water through an aqueduct, with a reser- voir of sufficient capacitj^ for filling j)ublic and domestic wants to the entire satisfaction of all. A military hospital, built of brick, of sufficient size, lies north of the city and near the asylum for the poor. Its hygienic condition seems to be satisfactory. Matches, tobacco, cigarettes, chocolate, sweets, natural and pre- served, and others are manufactured here on small scale. The principal trade is based upon the imports of American and Spanish provisions, dry goods, etc. ; of the European markets and some of the American. There are several enterprises within this jurisdiction which might be mentioned. The most promising one is the foundation of an agri- cultural bank, to suj)ply monej^ on long time; also the establishment of mercantile firms with sufficient capital to import the necessary pro- visions and merchandise for the city's consumption. The jurisdiction of Mayaguez is imijortant; its healthy conditions, the evident progressiveness of its population, and the sources of wealth found in its fertile soil make the city an attractive one for business or residence purposes. When an agricultural bank with strong capital is established, com- mencing on reasonable terms, with good security, agriculture will CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 59 resume its fo]'mer activity. It is now almost at a standstill. Com- merce will recover its old-time vigor, industries will spring up, giving abundant opportunities for work among the poor class. (Signed by the alcalde and submitted by Major Thomas as a supple- ment to his report. ) Town of Cabo Bojo. — Information furnished by the alcalde. The last census gives it as about 3,000 inhabitants. Here are 9 planta- tions with steam engines of from 12 to 16 horsepower, and 14 worked by oxen. Cane is cultivated, approximately producing at present nearlj^ 26,000 quintals (of 100 pounds) of sugar annually. This output could be increased if money could be obtained on reasonable terms. Nine steam mills and 5 others. There are 14 alembics (distilling apparatus) for the distillation of rum, which yield from 25 to 125 gal- lons per day. The annual output is 123,200 liters, and that is when molasses does not bring a reasonable price in the market. The same planters prefer to sell molasses for exportation, making use only of the cachaza (the thick foam and spoils left after squeezing the cane through the mill rolls). Besides, there are 863 farms, amongst the number breeding cattle of all kinds. The cultivation of minor fruits is unknown. The planting of cotfee is a specialty, although in some of those it grows in small portions, so much so that the yearly yield may be esti- mated at from 300 to 400 quintals. The number of acres of land embraced in the 23 cane plantations and 863 farms already mentioned is about 36,258 acres, divided as fol- lows: Plain land, about 12,203 acres; hilly land, 11,084 acres; moun- tain and forest, 12,971 acres. Total, 36,258 acres. Public instruction: This locality has 11 primary, 2 elementary, 8 county (country?), and 1 private schools. Industries: In this municipality the following manufactories are found: Cigars, cigarettes, chipped tobacco, hats, bricks, walking sticks, lime, alembics, and others, it being impossible to state exactly the quantity annually manufactured. It can be stated, however, that the most important, such as sticks, brick, and lime, not only supply the local market, but also Mayaguez, Ponce, and other towns, and some even for export. There is a savings bank that loans money at the rate of 9 per cent a year, with a capital of $8,000. Principal crops and prices: Sugar, $3 per quintal; chewing tobacco, $20 ]3er quintal; smoking tobacco, $15 per quintal; corn, 11.50 per quintal. There is not wood enough in this jurisdiction for building purposes, but for cabinet work it can be found in sufficient quantity — such as capa, ucar, aceitillo, and others. Mines : None of any kind has so far been discovered, although it is assumed that they do exist ; also coal and sulphur. The salt pits are very productive when windmills can be used for raising the water. Cabo Rojo is one of the healthiest towns in the island. The beach of Jagua or Boqueron affords an excellent residence for families seeking sea bathing, having pure air as well as a delightful temperature. 60 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports: Tlie jndiciar jurisdiction of San German lias 1 city, San German, with population 5,321; 3 towns, Sabana Grande, with population 2,100; Lajas, 350; Cabo Rojo, 3,000. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : The principal city of the district and the one from which it derives its name is Ponce, situated about If miles from the coast, where, at Plaj'a de Ponce, its port, is a good harbor, with wharves, sheds, etc. The other towns, in the' order of their size, are: Yauco, population 8,000 b}' census of 1898; Coamo, population 6,000; Juana Diaz, population 4,000; Aibonito, population 3,000; Adjuntas, population 3,000; Guayanilla, population 3,000; Guanica, population 500; Penueles, population 800; besides many other smaller towns. Ponce is the largest city in the district and probably the largest in the island — certainly in area, and probablj^ in population. It is situated If miles from the coast and has a good harbor at its port, Playa de Ponce, which is included in the jurisdiction of Ponce, a civil division embracing, besides the Playa and Ponce, Juana Diaz and some 50 square miles of territory, with a jjopulation of about 49,000, of whom about 30,000 are in the city proper and the remainder about the outskirts of the cities and in small, scattered hamlets. A submarine cable ends at Ponce. It has the largest customs receipts of anj^ city in the island and is the. chief business city of the island. It is the only city with waterworks and water piped throughout the city. It has electric lights and the onlj Protestant church building in Puerto Rico. A franchise is all but let for an electric road from the port to the city, and the company proposes to extend the line to all of the neigh- boring cities. The largest, if not the onl}^, deposit of phosphates on the island is at its very door, on Muerto Island, at the harbor entrance. Hundreds of carriages, in lieu of street cars, carry passengers from one part of the city to another for about 8 cents each passenger per trip, or 60 cents an hour, and besides these a line of 'busses runs from Ponce to the port for about 10 cents (these prices being in United States currency). Ponce has a large telephone exchange, and is connected with all other towns hy telegraph, besides the railroad to Yauco and the car- riage and motorcycle line to San Juan and intermediate points. The streets, of macadam, are usually wide, well lighted, and clean. The houses are of stuccoed brick or stone, and there are some pretty residences and shops. There is a club or casino, which, originally Spanish, now has many Americans among its members. The club house adjoins a fine, large theater, and with the various entertain- ments at this latter and the weekly dances at the club Ponce possesses no poor means of entertainment. In the way of public imjDrovements, Ponce has a new and modero hospital, a poorhouse, orphans' home, insane asylum, a home for old women, a pesthouse, and three cemeteries. On the south side of the plaza, which is very large and beautiful, is an oriental kiosk, which is decorated with palms and fitted with a CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 61 kitchen and bar, and here one can eat American dishes, served in American style, or drink American drinks. An orchestra of six or eight pieces plays in the evening. On two nights a week are band concerts at the north end of the plaza. The stores are always full of American and European novelties and staples, and are excellent in their way, but are deficient in tools and agricultural implements. The fire department of Ponce consists of a volunteer fire company,, composed of 3 platoons and 1 section located in the city and a detached platoon at the port. Each platoon is composed of 2 sections of 60 men each. The present chief of the company is Don Julio E. Steinacher; the assistant chief is Don Juan Seix. The other officers are 2 surgeons, a treasurer, 4 chiefs of platoon, one of which commands the hook-and- ladder section, and 6 chiefs of section located at Ponce, and 1 chief of section platoon and 2 chiefs of section at the port. The whole company thus consists of: Officers 18 Seven sections of 60 men each 420 Pioneers 18 Band 30 Trumpeters 18 Sanitary police 14 Port sections (2) 120 Total, 18 officers and 620 men. The ranks are not completely filled, however, and there are at present only 480 men available. Each platoon has a hand engine and a hose cart; the salvage sec- tion, a hook-and. ladder cart. As above organized the company can handle three simultaneous fires. The hook-and-ladder apparatus is old and worn, but the hand engines are in working order. There should be an extra engine for the port. There are in all 1,500 feet of hose. The company is entirely composed of volunteers, and no one receives a cent of pay. Money prizes are given to those firemen who first arrive at the scene of a fire and save property. A guard of twelve men is posted nightly at the engine house. Each fireman is entitled to free medicine and medical attendance for himself and family. In case of being disabled at a fire, he receives a dailj^ allowance until again able to work. Three money prizes are given annually by the city to those firemen who have particularly distinguished themselves by good conduct. To defray the expenses of the company an annual appropriation is made from the township funds, amounting in general to from 3,000 to 4,000 pesos. During the last year, however, 7,000 pesos were allotted. The engine house (parque de bombas) is a neat wooden building situated in the main plaza, just back of the church. It belongs to the city. The uniform of the men consists of a red flannel shirt, blue cotton- drill trousers with red stripe, a broad and strong canvas belt, and a red cap. The officers have for full dress a dark-blue, single-breasted tunic, dark-blue trousers with red stripe, and a white metal helmet similar to those used by the firemen in Paris. They also have a dark-blue 62 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. blouse and red cap for ordinary wear, with a red flannel sliirt for use at fires and fire drill. The uniforms of the men, equipment, etc., are paid for from the annual appropriation, but the olficers bear all the expenses of their own outfit. The officers belong to the best families of Ponce, and the organization is very popular. A good band is maintained, which gives concerts twice a week in the i)rlncipal plaza. A drill or parade is given every Sunday when the weather permits, and the whole popula- tion turns out to witneSs it. The Ponce fire company has been in existence some sixteen years, and it has an excellent record for turning out promptly and quickly controlling every fire which has occurred in and about Ponce. This company did excellent service at the dangerous fire which broke out on the night of January 25, 1899, at the stables and magazine of Light Battery M, Seventh Artillery. The introduction of a steam fire engine, with horses, is not favorably looked upon on account of the attendant expenses, and at i)resent it is hardly necessarj' . Fire plugs are plentiful all through the city, and the pressure is enough to throw a stream over most of the structures, which are generally low. Larger and more powerful hand engines, a good hook-and-ladder outfit, and more hose would make the company more efficient even than it is, and the jjresent engines would then be available for use at the port. The town of Yauco also has an organized fire company, and Juana Diaz has established one in the past year, modeled upon that of Ponce. The police force of Ponce is composed as follows : One inspector, 2 subinspectors, 2 corporals, 50 roundsmen, 6 mounted men; total 61. One inspector and 7 men are detached for service at the port, 1 of the men acting as corporal, 4 men being assigned to day duty, and 2 at night work. The hours of duty for the whole force are from 7.30 p. m. to 5 a. m. and from 5 a. m. to 7.30 p. m. At Ponce for day service 6 men are assigned to the duty of patrolling the 6 city wards and 12 more to special work. During the night 18 are assigned to the wards and 5 to special duty. The corporals are assisted in their work by men specially detailed, -SO that there are 3 available for night and 3 for day duty. They make their rounds once every two hours, receiving reports from the policemen of any unusual occurrence and transmitting the same through the subinspector on duty to the inspector, who, if necessary, refers them to higher authority for action. The mounted police are intended for service in the 22 country bar- rios, or wards, and the duty of patrolling these is divided between them. For ordinary wear the men are uniformed in brown hoUands with blue cloth cap or light helmet. For cool weather and on special occa- sions a dark-blue cloth suit is worn. The city police and those of the port are armed day and night with revolver. The corporals when patrolling at night carry a Colt carbine, and so do the policemen at the port. The mounted or rural police carry carbines and furnish their own mounts. The police seem to be quite capable of keeping order under normal conditions and have recently gained much prestige from their suc- cessful capture of White Eagle and several of his gang. Yauco. — Yauco is the second city in size in the district, with a pop- CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 63 ulation of 8,000 in the city proper. It is 22 miles by rail from Ponce and has a good road to its port, Gnanica, about 4 to 6 miles away. It has has two plazas, upon one of which is its market and upon the other the Roman Catholic cathedral, and this latter is beautified with IDalms and flowers, with shade trees and benches along its v^^ell-kept walks. Yauco has two good hotels, besides a club and theater and many good stores. Being the end of the good roads to Ponce, both rail and wagon, it naturally becomes a starting point for pack trains, and long lines of patient iDeasts standing about its streets are, perhaps, the most familiar sight. Yauco is in the heart of a sugar-raising plain, and much of the sugar interests of the district center about this clean little city. Coamo. — Coamo, the third citj^ in the district, has some 6,000 inhab- itants, and, being some 1,800 or 2,000 feet above the sea level, is cool and pleasant. It is on the line of travel from Ponce to San Juan, and is usually a stopping place for travelers making the trip. Coamo boasts an excellent, if small, club, a theater, and hotel. It has but one plaza, which contains the market as well as the ever- present cathedral. Being in the colfee and tobacco districts, Coamo devotes most of her attention to these staples. Coamo is also tlie terminus of the pack trails leading to Barros and Barranquitas, small villages in the roughest and wildest part of the island and in the midst of the best coffee lands of Puerto Rico. Near Coamo are also the famous Coamo baths, which attract many Europeans to their healing powers and the beautiful scenery of this part of the district. These baths are the site of the United States vaccine station, where, under the energetic direction of Maj. Azel Ames, U. S. V., is pro- duced virus of excellent qualit5^ Points taken at this farm, the output being some 30,000 points a day, give unfailing results and are used in the compulsory vaccination of the inhabitants of the whole island, as well as in the army stationed in Puerto Rico. A good hotel adds much to the attractiveness of the place. Juana Diaz, about 8 miles from Ponce and 12 miles from Coamo, has 4,000 inhabitants and is also on the military road, being the last point of changing horses in the relay ride from Ponce to San Juan. Trails to Barros and Utuado bring coffee and tobacco from these points by means of the ubiquitous j)ack horse. Near Juana Diaz is a little hamlet, scarce large enough to have a name, which installed the first electric-light system in the district, some four or five years ago. Juana Diaz has a hotel, a few good stores, a cathedral, and a plaza. The nights are cool, and the rain- fall is about the average of that in the district. It offers but little in the way of investment. Aibonito is the highest city on the island, and has a population of about 3,000. It is situated at the base of Mount Somanta, and is a very beautiful little town with an excellent cathedral and plaza. Being on the edge of the tobacco district which centers about Cayey, 13 miles a,wiij, it naturallj" is classed as a tobacco center. At the base of Mount Guilarto, and in the heart of what is perhaps the most beautiful of the mountain scenerj^, nestles the city of Adjuntas. It is literally hung upon the verdant mountain side, with but a trail leading into the town from Ponce or out toward Utuado 64 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. and Arecibo. Much work has been done and is still being done on a wagon road from Ponce to Ad juntas, and when completed this well- situated little city will quickly spring into prominence as a coffee center. For years sturdy little ponies, laden with the pungent berry, have trudged through its narrow streets bound for Ponce, Yauco, or Arecibo, but the poor roads about it have always kept it hidden from the world. It has a pretty and well-kept plaza, with the usual cathedral, and is a well-ordered and cleanly little citj". Being situated among the roughest of hills, the natives have always been more or less turbulent, making raids upon pack trains, and, with their booty, retreating to their mountain fastnesses. The work of the American troops is very apparent in dealing with these banditti, as breaches of order have become much less prevalent than formerly, and for some little time back the jurisdiction of Adjuntashas been as quiet and well ordered as its neighboring city of Yauco. On the line of railroad from Ponce to Yauco are the towns of Guay- anilia, with 1,000 inliabitants, and Peiiuelas, with about half as many. They are both sugar centers, and besides this offer but little to invest- ors or travelers. Each has a very poor hotel, although that of Guay- anilla is the better of the two. The Tallaboa River supplies, by means of an aqueduct, the city of Peiiuelas with water,' which is hauled, as in Guaj^anilla, through the town by peddlers. Guanica, with 500 inhabitants, is chiefly prominent as the port of Yauco and as the site of a small United States fortification, Fort Capron, which is on a hill near the village and overlooking the best harbor on the south coast of the island. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN, Lieutenant Blunt, under date of May 12, 1899, says: There is but one city in the district, San Juan, the capital and princij)al city of Puerto Rico. Historically interesting, it is to-day a commercial town of great importance and has great prospects. It is the natural outlet of a large, fertile section, and, having the only real harbor on the north coast, should be the commercial metropolis. At present it is over- crowded, but when higher dwellings are constructed the present area will hold many more people. On December 31, 1897, its population was 83,111, of which but 153 were foreigners. Since then it has grown slightly; the population to-day is about 33,700. All the streets of the city are paved, some with cobbles. There are several plazas or open squares and four large Roman Catholic churches. The public buildings belong partly to the insular government and partly to the municipal. At present several buildings are used by both temporarily. The police force of the city consists of 62 officers and men; it does not seem sufficient for the work. The city limits include Santurce, a suburb on the main island, not on San Juan island; this is entirely a residence section and will increase rapidly. There are no street railways ; two omnibus lines run to the princi- pal places. The suburban railway before alluded to should be ex- tended and the motive power altered. There are gas works and electric-light works, both of them too small for the present necessities. These are private corporations. The CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 65 telephone system is eomi3lete, as is also the cable system to other countries. The interior telegraph system is carried on at present under the United States Signal Service, and is being extended and improved continuously. The principal streets are sewered, but the system does not gener- ally extend into the houses. It is the same with the water supply, which is brought from the Rio Piedras, about 10 miles, in an 18-inch main, and is run through the iDrincipal streets, with public hydrants at many j)oints. The works cost in 1888 about $50,000 to put in, and was estimated to sup- ply the needs of 70,000 Puerto Ricau population. But as the sanitazy improvements considered necessary are introduced, the per capita of water used will be increased tremendously, and the supply and main will both be found too small. The cistern supply will help a great deal, but can not be relied upon. Before long the water system must be improved. The Loiza River is the next available supply. The health of the city is good, though on account of overcrowding the death rate is above the average. A few lepers have been found and isolated. There has been some smallpox of a mild form with no deaths. Everybody has recently been vaccinated. Many of the people are very x^oor and improperly nourished, but the " Woman's Aid Society" has already established a branch here and is doing good work. The enterprises of the city are largely commercial. There are no manufactures which more than supply domestic needs, except cigars, coifee, sugar, and its by-products, molasses and rum. The imports show that all machinery, materials for clothing, lum- ber, and groceries come from foreign places. Just at present imports from the United States are increasing rapidlj^ and European goods losing their hold. There are five large banks and numerous "money exchanges." There are no investment companies actually doing business ; there are numerous prospectors, and companies are now being formed. (See also notes under "Churches," "Schools," etc.) In general the business interests are increasing and the city will undoubtedly grow rapidly. IsTumerous minor improvements are being made; the city is active; the business men wide-awake. None of the toAvns of the district are of special importance. Rio Piedras, about 8 miles from San Juan, is probably the most promising. It has a population of about 11,000 in the township and nearly 2,000 in the pueblo itself. Sugar is the staple; several large mills are now in oj^eration and more are expected. The township lies on both sides of the main military road to Ponce, and the town has railroad ■communication with San Juan. The waterworks for San Juan are located here, and it is hoped to put pipes in the streets of Rio Piedras soon. There are three schools, the usual plaza, and church. Many vegetables for use in San Juan are raised nearby, and the higher part of the township produces excellent tobacco. Carolina, with a population of 10,200, is an important sugar and cattle center. There is a limited quantity of excellent clay in this vicinity, with crude means of brickmaking. The absence of any forests in these sections is very noticeable. Large trees are scattered around. There is no regular forest growth. Rio Grande is separated from the natural center, San Juan, by the river Loiza, with no bridge, and the sugar from this district is shipped 1.3100 o 66 CONDITIONS' IN PUERTO RICO. from the open port of Loiza, on the Atlantic Ocean. The townships of Rio Grande and Loiza contain al3ont 6,000 people together; the pueblos each have churches and schools. The eastern part of Rio Grande is very hilly and the highest point on the island about 3,100 feet. Sierra de Laquillo is just on the edge of the district. Bayamon, another suburban town, has a pueblo population of 2,500, with about 5,000 more in the country around. It is connected with San Juan by rail to Catano and boat thence to the city. The town- shii^ is j)artl57' a sugar and partly a coffee district, and the lack of roads has kept it all back. This is being remedied now and the town will grow nicely. Water can be cheaply introduced here, but no definite plans have been formed. Naranjita and Sabana del Palma are higher townships, cut off fronli any wagon transportation. Coffee and tobacco are somewhat grown. The land is extremelj^ fertile. The towns are small and unimportant. The total population is about 11,000. The country is very rough and tlie trails are narrow and not improved in anyway. The River Plata is generally f ordable, but has a great amount of water for supplj^ and power. Corosal and Toa Alta form another natural but undeveloped coffee section; no roads or improvements of any kind. At Corosal cojjper has been found in small quantities; improved mining facilities might develop paying quantities, particularly as copper is daily becoming more valualjle in electrical matters. The population of these sections is about 7,600, and these people seemed rougher than those else- where. Toa Baja, its port Dorado, and the village of Vega Alta form another group of sugar and coffee i3lantations. The railroad and mili- tHYj road lead through this section to San Juan, while Dorado is one of the best open ports on the island. This section is flourishing and lias fair communications, water power, and veiy fertile soil. The total poijulation is estimated at 11,000, and each town has several schools and one church., None of the towns above named have any paved streets, gas or electric lights, waterworks, or sewers. The buildings are nearly all one-storied, and the general appearance of the towns is one of decay. There are no decent stopping places, no domestic conveniences. Thej^ seem from fifty to one hundred years behind the times. The basis of this report is a personal inspection of the country, with oral or written statements from persons supposed to know about the many and varied subjects. The alcaldes of San Juan and the towns have given any information asked for. POST-OFFICES. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb says: United States post-otfices at Arecibo, Barce- loneta, Hatillo, Camuy, Quebradillas, Isabela. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield says, under date of May 30, 1899: All the towns named have post-of&ces, but no buildings for the purpose. Rooms are rented forjDostal purposes. (Towns named are as follows: Agua- dilla, San Sebastian, Moca, Aguada, Rincon, Quebradilla, Isabela. ) CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 67 DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster makes no report. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. . Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: Post-offices are in all the towns and cities. The service is fair, although delays occa- sionally occur on account of swollen streams. DISTRICT OP MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes a report, not dated, but evidentlj^ written in May or June of 1899, in which he says: The post-office system is grad- ually improving, though I am creditably informed that in some places in the interior it is in bad condition. All of the officials, whoever they may be, are careless and indifferent. In the district nearly all of the postmasters are Americans, which should insure a regular transmission and correct delivery of the mails. Mayaguez, San German, Cabo Rojo, Lajas, Hormigueros, Anasco, Sabana Grande, Maricao, and Las Marias all have iDOst-offices. Maysignez has daily mail to San Juan and communication hj sea with the capital, though irregular and uncertain as to time of arrival and departure of bo^ts. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports: Each of these towns (San German, Cabo Rojo, Lajas, and Sabana Grande) has one post-office; a money- order office is, however, onlj^ in San German. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : Every city in the district has a United States post-office, many of which are money-order offices, and a daily mail each way from Ponce gives an excellent service. Ships stopping at San Juan put off first-class mail immediately, the district's mail being carried to Ponce for distribution at once, and the second, third, and fourth classes being usually sent the next day unless the ship is going to Ponce, in whichcase she brings it down herself. Mail from New York is usually from eight to twelve daj^^s old when it reaches Ponce, although exceptional trips have brought New York papers through in six days. STREET RAILWAYS. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports : There are no street railways or electric cars in the section treated of. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield, under date of May 30, 1899, reports: There are no street railways in the district. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, says: There are no street railways. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: Street railways are not yet to be found in any of the cities or towns. DISTRICT OF MAY'AGUEZ. Major Tliomas states in an undated report : Maj^aguez possesses the only street-car system on the island, which raises her as unique in this respect. This line answers the pur]30se very well, is economically mana2:ed, and renders fairly good service. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbroolc reports: Street railwaj^s * * * are en- tirely absent. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports (in May, 1899) : A franchise is all but let for an electric road from the port to the city (of Ponce), and the com- pany proposes to extend the line to all of the neighboring cities. Hundreds of carriages, in lieu of street cars, carry passengers from one part of the city to another for about 8 cents per trip, or 60 cents an hour, and besides there is a line of 'busses run from Ponce to the port for about 10 cents (these prices being in United States currency). There are at present no street railways in the district, but within a short time Ponce will have in o]3eration a modern electric road. At present carriages are made to take the iDlace of street cars and are in some waj^s preferable. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt says : There are no street railways (in the city of San Juan); two omnibus lines run to the principal places. The suburban railways before alluded to (see "Railroads, etc.") should be extended and the motive power altered. ELECTRIC LIGHTS. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield reports, under date of May 30, 1899 : There are no electric lights in the district. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, says: There are no electric lights. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 69 DISTRICT OF HUMACAO, Under date of May 16, 1899, Captain Dentler saj^s: Electric lights are not j^et to be found in any of the cities or towns. Kerosene oil is the onh^ agency for supplying liglit to the cities in this district. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas, in his report (probablj' written in May or June, 1899), says: Maj^aguez also has an electrie-light plant. The alcalde of Mayaguez, in a supplement to Major Thomas's report, says: An electric plant furnishes the city lights bj^ contract with the council board. It also provides light for private dwellings — an electric light generally acceptable. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports: Electric lighting * * * jg entirel}^ absent. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames says: Ponce has electric lights. Near Juana Diaz is a little hamlet, scarce large enough to have a name, which installed the first electric-light system in the district, some four or five years ago. Ponce is well lighted by arc lights, and the houses bj' incandescent lights, which are very generally used, although most of the houses are piped and fitted for gas, which is but little used. The current is of a verj^ high voltage — 250 — and there is never anj^ break or failure of the current. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports (May 12, 1899) : (In the city of San Juan) There are gas works and electric-light works, both of them too small for the present necessities. These are private corporations. None of the other towns named in this district have electric lights. TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATION. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports : 1. The wire along the railroad from San Juan to terminus of road at Camuy, for railroad business only. 2. Military line from San Juan throngh Bayamon, Manati, Barce- ■loneta, Arecibo, Camuy, Quebradillas, Isabela, Aguadilla, and Maya- guez, with stations at present at Bayamon, Manati, Arecibo, Agua- dilla, and Maj^aguez. . 3. Military line from Arecibo through ITtuado, Adjuntas, to Ponce; stations at these posts. 4. Military line, Utuado via Lares, San Sebastian, Aguadilla, with stations at Lares, Utuado, and Aguadilla. 70 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. These militaiy lines are open to all public and private business ; charges, 2 cents gold per word, including address and signature, to all points on the island having operating stations. No telephone plants. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield, under date of May 30, 1899, says : All the towns named are connected by telegraph lines and have connections all over the island; but at Quebradillas, Isabela, San Sebastian, and Moca there are no operators, so the telegraph lines are useless. The telegraph line mentioned belongs to the government. The telegraph line that is used from Aguadilla to Aguada and Rincon belongs to the Puerto Rican Railroad, although the govern- ment line also goes through those places. There are one or two short telephone lines. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, sa}^: There is no tele- phone communication. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: Forty-two miles of private telephone belong to Mr. Arguesso, a sugar merchant of Humacao, used for his estate and business purposes. A sugar dealer, Mr. Roig, owns 6^ miles of private wire between Humacao and the port of Humacao. Government telephone connects the different government buildings, the cavalry and infantry barracks, the hosijital, the corral, the com- missary storehouse, etc. The only telegraphic communication is that of the government. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas, reporting in May or June, 1899, says : The towns nearlj' all have telegraph lines connecting with the head- quarters of the district at Maj^aguez and the capital. The alcalde of Mayaguez, speaking of that jurisdiction, saj^s, in a supplement to Major Thomas's report: A telephone line is established in the town. A telegraiDh of6.ce for the convenience of the public; office is near the playa. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : * * * and telephone communications are entirely absent. San German is the only town which has telegraphic communication; the line, however, touches Sabana Grande and Cabo Rojo. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Fames reports : A submarine cable ends at Ponce. Ponce has a large telephone exchange and is connected with all other towns by telegraph, besides the railroad. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 71 Ponce and Yaiico both have telephone systems, that of Ponce hav- ing some 200 subscribers. The instruments are modern and the line works well. All of the cities of the district are connected by tele- graph, which is at present worked by the United States Signal Corps in a very satisfactory manner. Ponce also has a submarine cable with excellent service. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt says : The telephone system (of the city of San Juan) is complete, as is also the cable system to other countries. The interior telegraph system is carried on at present under the United States Signal Service, and is being extended and improved continually. WATER SUPPLY. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Town of Arecibo. — Captain Macomb says: The Rio Grande receives from the southwest the river Tanama, which joins the main stream some 4 miles soutli of the town of Arecibo. This mountain stream is being utilized to supply the town vdth an abundance of pure water by an aqueduct. The reservoir, a massive stone and concrete construc- tion, with ventilated arched roof, has been completed at an elevation of some 175 feet above the sea. A strong masonry dam in the Tanama is also completed, and will furnish power to fill the reservoir and to run an electric plant to furnish light for the city. The machinery for the water-filling plant is in place, there remaining to be completed about one-half of the i3ipe line leading into the town and the placing of pipes and hydrants in the streets. The work as done is of the strongest construction. About $20,000, in gold, is needed to complete the system, and when this sum is made available it is believed the system will be completed in six months. The rainfall is sufficient at Arecibo and Hatillo and Camuy, but on the limestone plateau on which Quebradillas and Isabela are located the amount of water is not as great. Both these towns have suffered in the recent (June, 1899) dry weather. This difficulty it is hoped to remove, so far as the towns are concerned, by the sinking of bored wells. This work is at present under way. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. The eastern and southeastern portions of the district are well watered. This is not the case in the northern and northwestern sections, where the country is wholly dependent upon rains and on a few wells, cisterns, and artificial pools. As there are or have been no instruments for measuring the rainfall, there is no means of knowing exactly what it is, except that during the period from January 1, 1899, to May 31, 1899, 8.13 inches fell at Isabela. They have had a rain gauge there since January 1, 1899. This period covers the dry season and is in a dry locality, where drought prevails to a great extent at some seasons. However, from my observations, I do not think it can be less than 60 inches per annum. The water supply of Aguadilla is excellent, coming from what is 72 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. called the Columbus Spring, wliicli, however, is not a spring, but the outlet of a large underground stream, having its sources somewhere up in the mountains east of the town. There are also manj^ cisterns and vfells. The water is 13 per cent liard. The water suppl}^ of San Sebastian is mostly from the Culebrina and its branches and from cisterns and wells. The same is true of Mooa. About Quebradillas are several springs, besides cisterns and wells. The water supply of Isabela is mentioned above. (See "Geographical and physical features.") Aguada is on the seashore, or near it. There are some springs, but the water is mostly from wells and cisterns. About Rincon are many springs and little streams, besides wells and cisterns. Lares, besides wells and cisterns, is su]3i)lied hj branches of the Guayaloca and other streams. All towns seem to depend mostly on cisterns, in which the water is comparatively fresh most of the time on account of the frequent rains. Next to them they use the wells. The cisterns are usuallj^ well built and clean, but from my observations I can not say the wells are clean, though well built. Furthermore, the water in the wells is very hard at all times. Both cisterns and wells are very numerous everywhere. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, says: There are no city waterworks. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of Maj^ 16, 1899, says: There is an abundance of water for all the cities and towns, but no public reser- voirs. The water is hauled ui^on ox carts in barrels from the streams and rivers and peddled to private families at different prices, accord- ing to the quantity required. DISTRICT OP MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report as follows : Mayaguez (citj^) has a water sytem. » The water supply of this district (I mean for drinking j)urposes) is not perfect and in a great many localities unhealthy, though more attention is being joaid to this supply than formerly. Filtering stones and filtering vessels are being introduced and used. The alcalde of Mayaguez says in a supplement to the report of Major Thomas : The city is supplied with water through an aqueduct, with a reservoir of sufilcient capacity for filling public and domestic wants to the entire satisfaction of ail. SUBDISTEICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : Water is sui^plied from river by venders, from cisterns, wells, etc. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Fames says: Ponce alone has a water giipply piped into the houses. It is the onlj^ citj^ with waterworks and water ]3iped throughout the city. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 73 The Tallaboa River supplies, by means of an aqueduct, the city of Penuelas with water, which is hauled, as in Guayanilla, through the town by peddlers. Ponce is the only citj^ in the district, or indeed, upon the island, which has a water supply with waterworks and piping. Most of the other cities rely upon cisterns or aqueducts for drinking water and streams for washing, and most of the washing is done at the river side by native womeu. An improved and modern filter is soon to be added to Ponce's water- works, mone}' having already been appropriated for that purpose. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt says, under date of May 12, 1899: Rio Piedras supplies the city of San Juan and suburbs with what water is there used. The general absence of sewers and water supply are every- where noticeable. Water was a luxury rather than a necessity. The water sj'^stera does not generally extend into the houses. The water is brought from the Rio Piedras, about 10 miles, in an 18-inch main, and is run through the principal streets with public hydrants at many points. The works cost in 1888 about $50,000 to put in and were estimated to su]3ply the needs of 70,000 Puerto Rican people. But as the sanitary improvements considered necessary are introduced the per capita of water used will be increased tremendously and the supply and main will both be fourd too small. The cistern supplj^ will help a great deal, but can not be relied upon. Before long the water sj^stem must be improved. The Loiza River is the next avail- able supply. The waterworks for San Juan are located at Rio Piedras, and it is hoped to put pipes in the streets of Rio Piedras soon. Bayamon. — Water can be cheaply introduced here, but no definite plans have been formed. Naranjito and Sabana del Palma. — The River Plata * * * l^ias a great amount of water for suppl}^ and power. None of the towns other than San Juan have a (piped) water supply. BONDED AND OTHER INDEBTEDNESS. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captp.in Mansfield, under date of May 30, 1899, says: There is no bonded indebtedness of any of the towns. The other indebtedness of the towns amounts to an aggregate of 70,000 to 75,000 pesos, but there are some towns that have no indebtedness. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster makes no report. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of Maj^ 16, 1899, saj'S: There have been j)racticallj' no municipal improvements, for nearly all the cities are in considerable debt. The city of Humacao alone owes $20,000, caused by the bad administration of the Spanish Government. 74 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports : The bonded indebtedness of the city of Maya- g'uez is not known, bnt is supposed to be small. Horraia-ueros, bonded indebtedness none; Anasco, bonded indebtedness not known; San German, bonded indebtedness not known; Sabana Grande, bonded indebtedness hot known; Maricao, bonded indebtedness not known; Lajas, bonded indebtedness of this town not knOwn; Cabo Rojo, bonded indebtedness not known. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : Generally speaking, the cities are not bonded and have no indebtedness. Ponce, although the largest city on the island, not having a single cent of bonded or other indebtedness. SANITARY CONDITIONS. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. . Captain Mansfield reports: The lack of good sanitary conditions and the dirty condition of houses, and especially water-closets, are not productive of good health, and I do not doubt that anj^ epidemic would create great loss of life throughout the whole district. As to sanitar}^ conditions, any report that can now (May 30, 1899) be made will be too short to adequately describe the situation. -The streets of most towns and villages are fairly clean, but could be much cleaner ; not so the back yards, which are generally pest holes. Slops from the kitchen are thrown on the ground, subject to the action of a hot sun. To some extent the rains wash the j^ards, but more or less of the dirt soaks into the earth and becomes a permanent fixture. The water-closets are so constructed that it is ail but impossible to clean them, because there are no allejnvays in any of the towns and villages, and the odors rise and float through the apartments. ^ These closets are alwaj^s in a filthy condition and generally placed in close proximity to the kitchens, and sometimes 0]3ening into them. No effort seems to be ever made to keep such places clean. No doubt the amount of sickness and disease would be greatly reduced if the sanitary con- ditions were improved. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, says: The sanitary conditions are not of the best, but are improving. It takes time to correct the unclean personal habits handed down from former generations. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: The sanitary conditions are very bad. Houses are crowded and small, and in many places closets are built right next to kitchens. The post surgeon and the commanding officer of the post have made strenuous efforts to better affairs in these respects, especially in the city of Humacao. The mayor of this town, acting upon the suggestion of the military authorities, issued a general proclamation early in April, calling par- CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 75 ticularly to the attention of the inhabitants the necessity of proper sanitation. However, there is great room for im^jrovement in this matter. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas, in a report written in May or June, 1899, but with- out date, snys : Maj^aguez is a modern, healthy city, and is considered to be the cleanest city on the island. The sanitarj^ conditions of the district and the cities and towns embraced therein are all good and constantly being improved. The alcalde of Mayaguez, speaking of the city, says : Its sanitary conditions are good. Its sanitary condition will improve when some of the swamps adjacent to the town have been drained. The alcalde of Cabo Rojo, speaking of that town, says : Cabo Rojo is one of the healthiest towns in the island. The beach of Jaqua or Boqueron affords an excellent residence for families seeking sea bath- ing, having pure air as well as a delightful temperature. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieuteilant Hornbrook reports : Sanitary conditions are improving. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports: The sanitary condition of the cities is much better than it was a year ago, but very much remains j^et to be done. Not a city in the district has a sewer system, and latrines or cesspools are generally old and in bad condition, although they have been cleaned, under the direction of army officers. The sanitary outlook is deplorable, and while streets and sidewalks are clean and the appearance of the citj' is good, yet in many patios are hidden sources of infection and disease that will have to be cleaned out before the condition of the city will be anything like hygienic. The cities are poor and are permitted to raise but 50 per cent of the usual taxes, so that it is extremely difficult to get hold of the neces- sary-funds for proper cleansing of the city. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt says : The princi]3al streets of the city of San Juan are sewered, but the system does not generallj^ extend into the houses. It is the same with the water supply. But as the sanitary Improvements considered necessary are introduced the per capita of water used will be increased tremendousljT^ and the supply and main will both be found too small. The health of the city is good, though on account of overcrowding the death rate is above the average. MANUFACTURES AND BUSINESS ENTERPRISES. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports: In the town of Arecibo : Dry goods, 6 ; general supply, 2 ; grocers, large and small, 30; restaurants, 4; wines and fancy groceries, 2; 76 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. butctiers, 10; banks, none (Roses & Co., do a banking business); hotels, La Italiano, 2 pesos; Gandias, 2 pesos; a few boarding houses, 30 i)esos per month ; barbershops, 6; laundries, 3; shoemakers' vShojDS, 6; shoe store, 1; tailors, -i shops and jobbers; photographer, 1 (not permanent); i^rinting office, 1; newspaper, 1, with circulation 250 per month, at 2 cents; jewelers, none; florists, none; painters, 2, regu- lar; contractors, building, 2 firms; markets,* 1; carpenters, 3 shops and a few jobbers; hospitals, 2; real estate dealers, none; coffee and sugar merchants, 2 firms; hardware, lamps, etc., 2 (from United States and Germanj^) ; petroleum (not handled by separate stores) ; tanner}^, 1; slaughterhouse, 1; pawnbroker, 1; silversmiths, 2; ice, 4 centavos X)er libra, from Baj'amon; chocolate manufactories, none; fisheries, none; distilleries, 2; breweries, none; sawmills, none; tin- smiths, 3 shojjs; blacksmiths, 2 shops; tobacco factories, 2; cigar and cigarette factories, 4; cigarette factories, 2; livery stables, 3; under- takers, 1 ; cemetery (see list of improvements under cities and towns) ; cabinet makers, 2 stores; brick factory, 1; lime kilns, 2; hat stores (with dry goods), men's furnishings, not separate. DISTEICT OF AGUADILLA. « Captain Mansfield, under date of May 30, 1899, reports: As to manufactures, there are practically none; a few small cigar and cigarette factories, that is all, excepting the small distilleries con- nected with each sugar plantation. There are no business enterprises, unless the coffee-cleaning mills and sugar mills (already alluded to) can be called by such a name.^ DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, says: There are a num- ber of small cigar factories and wheelwrights' and blacksmiths' shops, but no manufactures of any importance. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler says : There are several factories here, principally for grinding cane. A Mr. Busso has built a factory for the purpose of extracting oil from the cocoanut and starch from the yucca. A large corporation has just been formed for the purpose of building- central sugar factories in Naguabo and Humacao. Practically all the business done is in the sale of sugar, coffee, molasses, and rum. These are dry goods, notion, and grocery stores in the towns and cities. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes a report without date, but probably written in May or June, 1899, as follows: The cit}^ of Mayaghez has 1 ice plant, cigar manufactory, 3 coffee houses (3 machines for shelling, cleaning, and ijolishing coffee), 2 foundries, 3 distilleries for distilling rum, 4 manufactories of all kinds of liquor, 2 brickyards, 2 carriage manufactories, 1 planing and turning mill, 1 central sugar manufactory^ (For other agricultural enterprises, see "Farms and plantations.") Hormigueros has 9 large sugar manufactories; Aiiasco, 16 large sugar manufactories; San German, 8 large sugar manufactories; Sabana Grande, 5 large sugar manufactories; Lajas, 9 large sugar manufac- tories; Cabo Rojo, 26 large sugar manufactories. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 77 In addition to the manufacturing interests indicated above, Major Thomas reports for the city of Mayaguez : All kinds of business represented — coffee, rum, sugar, and tobacco; mercantile business houses, wholesale and retail; drj^ goods, groceries, shops of all kinds, drug stores, small restaurants, liquor sellers, law- yers, sailors, hat and shirt makers, dressmakers, shoemakers, wine shops, livery stables, watchmakers, jewelry establishments, pawn shops, bakeries, tin shops, x)hotographers, butchers, barber shops, bil- liard rooms, casinos, and chicken fighters. Hormigueros. — Merchants, grocerymen, butchers, and bakers are here represented. ; Anasco. — Merchants, grocerj^men, and all kinds of business repre- sented. Freighters. Cctbo Rojo. — This place has several cigar-making establishments in the town, besides the usual number of ordinary merchants and busi- ness men of all kinds found in a small town. The alcalde of Mayaguez, in a report upon that jurisdiction, says: Matches, tobacco, cigarettes, chocolate (sweet, natural, preserved), etc., are manufactured here on a small scale. The principal trade is based upon the imports of American and Spanish provisions, dry goods, etc., of the European markets and some of the American. The alcalde of Cabo Rojo, referring to that jurisdiction, says (for report on distilleries (rum) see "Plantations and farms"): In this municipality the following manufactories are found : Cigars, cigarettes, chipped tobacco, hats, bricks, walking sticks, lime, alembics (distil- leries), and others, it being impossible to state exactly the quantity annually manufactured. It can be stated, however, that the most important, such as sticks, brick, and lime, not only supply the local market, but also Mayaguez and Ponce and other towns and even some for export. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook states: San German jurisdiction has 3 rum distilleries, in which about 15,000 gallons of rum are distilled yearly. San German has 1 brickj^ard; about 100,000 bricks are made per year. About 30 cigar makers manufacture from 3,000 to 4,000 cigars a day in San German. Sabana Grande jurisdiction has 1 rum distillery, which distills about 5,000 gallons a year. Some 40 cigar makers, who manufacture from 4,000 to 5,000 cigars per day. The output of cigars would be greater if a market could be found for them. Bricks and lime are also manu- factured in this jurisdiction. Lajas has 6 rum distilleries, which distill about 25,000 gallons of rum per year. Some 300,000 cigars are manufactured yearly in Lajas. Cabo Rojo jurisdiction has 11 distilleries, where about 60,000 gal- lons of rum are distilled yearly. Seventy cigar makers manufacture 8,000 cigars a day. Walking sticks are also manufactured here. The output of all mentioned industries would be greater if there w^as a better market for them. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Ponce. — Lieutenant Eames reports (May, 1899) : The stores are always full of European and American novelties and staples, and are excellent in their way; but are deficient in tools and agricultural implements. 78 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. Yauco has two good hotels, a theater, and club, besides many good stores. Jnana Diaz has a hotel, a few good stores, a cathedral, and a plaza. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt, under date of May 12, 1899, reports: The enter- prises of the city are largely commercial. There are no manufactures w^hich more than supply domestic needs, except cigars, coffee, sugar and its by-products, molasses and rum. The imports show that all machinerj^, implements, materials for clothing, lumber, and groceries come from foreign countries. Jusx at present imports from the United States are increasing rapidlj^ and European goods losing their hold. Carolina. — There is a limited quantitj' of excellent clay in this vicinity, with crude means of brick making. DISTRICT OF VIEQUES. Captain Vance reports: The principal merchants, with one excep- tion, are Spaniards, and they keep the prices of everything where they want them. There seems to be no commercial honesty about any of them, native or S5)auiard, the best of each chargihg wha.t they think one will give. There is no public spirit about any of the merchants, their sole object being to make what thej^ can out of the situation. INVESTMENT COMPANIES AND BANKS. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb makes no report. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield, under date of May 30, 1899, says: There are no investment companies and no banks in the district. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster makes no report. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, says: Investment companies and banks, none. DISTRICT OP MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports (about May or June, 1899) as follows: The city of Mayaguez has a bank that does a regular banking business, besides a savings bank jpatronized by poor people. There seems to be a good opening for a bank with solid capital, money commanding 1 per cent a month (island currency) on all loans, mortgages, notes, and money advanced on crop prospects, on the best of securities. The merchants themselves do quite a banking business, necessarily, in their dealings with the planters and freighters in the country districts. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 79 The alcalde of Cabo Rojo, in a supplement to the report of Major Thomas says : There is a savings bank that loans money at the rate of 9 per cent a year, with a capital of $8,000. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : The city of San German has a sav- ings and loan bank with 60,000 pesos capital. It charges 12 per cent per annum on loans and pays 6 per cent per annum on deposits Cabo Rojo has a savings bank with a capital of 8,000 pesos; 9 per cent per annum is charged on loans. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : The Puerto Rican Investment Companj^ of Philadelphia and San Juan is the largest and almost the onljT^ investment company on the island. They operate the Coamo baths, many brickyards, sugar mills, etc., and seem to be in a prosperous condition. There are some minor and "wildcat" companies, but they are not reliable or permanent. The Credito y Ahorro of Ponce is a solid banking concern, which does a thriving business with native merchants and planters and with the people of Ponce in geueral. De Ford & Co., American capitalists, are fiscal agents of the United States and have established a banking house at Playa de Ponce. There is ample field for both concerns and they are in no sense rivals. DISTRICT OP SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt reports under date of May 12, 1899: There are five large banks and numerous "money exchanges" (in San Juan). There are no investment companies actually doing busi- ness. There are many prospectors, and companies are now bej.ng formed. CHURCHES, CHURCH PROPERTY. Missions and Missionaries, district of arecibo. Captain Macomb, in speaking of the island generally, says: The Roman Catholic religion is practically the only one represented on the island; but religion does not occupy a prominent place in affairs. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield, under date of May 30, 1899, says: In each town there is more or less church proioerty,, amounting in all to about 10p,000 pesos. This property seems, in most instances, to be owned jointly by the town and church. There are no missionaries other than the regular Catholic priests. 80 CONDITIONS IN PUEKTO RICO. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, nnder date of June 28, 1899, says: The diurch property seems to consist of the churches and priests' houses only. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Under date of Ma,y 16, 1899, Captain Dentler reports : Church prop- erty belongs to tlie corporation of the city. Tliere are no missions, or missionaries. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas reports as follows: In all the towns the most con- spicuous object is tlie churcli, built in former times, very old, but kept in good repair. They all belong to the Catholic clergy, but have no outside property as far as could be ascertained. It was the custom of the Spaniards to support the clergy by fixed salaries. Now what- ever support they have depends upon the charitj^ of the members of tlie congregation, there not being any other fixed income so far as known. No missions, convents, or missionaries; a general apathy prevails regarding religion, church matters, and spiritual education, due to former conditions and the paramount domination of the Spanish race. Church propert}^ not taxed. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : No reliable information can be had about church property. It is not taxed, and it is hard to get at any exact data. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : Owing to the confusion attendant upon the separation of church and state, many of the churches are claimed by both the city and church, and public records have been so kept as to render the origin of the city's ownership of land in some doubt. Ponce has the only Protestant church building in Puerto Rico. It is generally admitted that the title of the Roman Catholic Church to the various cathedrals throughout the district is clear, but many of the cities still claim the land on the ground that it has always been city property. The Church of England owns a small but pretty church building in Ponce, which will soon be transferred to the Protestant Episcopal Church of the United States. Cemeteries are usually owned by the cities. No mission work except that of the Church of England is being done in the district, excepting the regular church work of the Roman Catholic Church, which could hardly be called mission work. DISTRICT OF SAN JUAN. Lieutenant Blunt, under date of May 13, 1899, reports: The Roman Catholic Church, the established religion of Spain and her colonies, has had complete control at every point of the island. All public charities have been controlled by it. The removal of Govern- ment financial support and its loss of political power have just now weakened and almost paralyzed the church. Until its title to its immense landed properties are settled by our laws it feels its strength CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 81 very uncertain. The cliiircli lias been the government; now its power is lost. The buildings in the city of San Juan owned by the church are five large churches and several smaller chapels, a small hospital, and two asylums; also, a school for priests. The Protestant Episcopal Church has established a mission here, where regular services are held. No other Protestant church has mis- sions. There are, I believe, a Jewish rabbi and a few of that religion. At Rio Piedras there is the usual plaza and church. The pueblos of Rio Grande and Loiza each have a church. Toa Baja has several schools and a church. PROFESSIONS REPRESENTED. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb reports for the town of Arecibo : Dentist, 1 ; law- yers, 2; doctors, 4; civil engineer, 1. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Caj)tain Mansfield says : Fifty-seven school teachers, of whom 3 are women; 14 doctors, 2 surgeons, 2 notaries, 3 lawyers, 8 priests, and 1 dentist. DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, says: The professional men represented are physicians and lawyers. DISTRICT OF HUMACAO. Captain Dentler, under date of May 16, 1899, reports: The profes- sions represented here are law3^ers, teachers, doctors, chemists, and priests. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report (probably written in May or June, 1899), as follows: City of Mayaguez, lawj-ers, attorneys, doctors, sur- geons, civil engineers; Anasco, lawyers and doctors. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : The professions are represented as follows : In San German : One attorney at law, 5 physicians, 2 druggists, 1 judge of first instance, 1 municipal judge, 9 school-teachers. In Sabana Grande: One physician, 2 druggists, 1 municij)al judge, 5 school-teachers. In Cabo Rojo: Three physicians, 3 druggists, 1 procurator, 1 munic- ipal judge, 10 school-teachers. In Lajas: One physician, 1 druggist, 1 municipal judge, 4 school- teachers. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Fames reports : In Ponce are architects, engineers, den- tists, doctors, oculists, lawyers, and men of nearly every profession. 13100 6 82 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. GENERAL OPPORTUNITIES FOR INVESTMENT. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. ' Captain Macomb, speaking of the island generally, says : Tlie f atnre of the island is bright, with its rich' soil and salubrious climate. But until Americans, with their ideas, energy, and capital, invade the island any decided change will come very slowly. The island would seem to offer an ideal spot for fruit cultivation, especially of the orange, grape fruit, lemon, and pines. Tobacco of an excellent quality also thrives on the island. Speaking of the district of Arecibo, Captain Macomb, says: From its natural advantages it is believed that the Arecibo district and the town of Arecibo offer an excellent field for investment. In the city itself a bank is needed. It is recommended that this be a savings bank. So soon as confidence in its integrity is established it should do well. A small but good American hotel should do well. A dry goods store, with general merchandise, should succeed. A good Amer- ican doctor and dentist are needed here. Fruit growing in the district should bring large returns. Especially should this harbor be improved, so that all produce could be shipped from this port. The guano and phosphatic-rock deposits of Isabela district are reported abundant, but I have not seen them. If present in quantity, an excellent investment is offered. The fruits that would appear to offer a large profit are the orange, lemon, cocoanut, and pineapple. Large sandy tracts along the coast east of Mantia can, it is reported, be bought at present very cheaply and should do Avell for certain fruits. It is believed that the following improvements, now (June, 1899) being considered for the town of Arecibo, will be secured in the near future, viz, an aqueduct, electric lights, and harbor improvement. When they have been accomplished and the electric road put through to Ponce the town should double in population. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield, under date of May 30, 1899, ssijs: The opportunities for investment are good if the laws and methods of taxation were such as to make an investment safe. Under present conditions few care to make investments, for they would be annoyed in so manj^ w^ays that they would scarcelj^ be able to hold their own, and at present there is a disposition to plunder, in some form or other, everyone who has any capital. The island of Puerto Rico is, as everyone knows, one of the richest and most fertile spots on earth; but its soil, after four centuries of occupation, is still undeveloped. What cultivation has taken place would scarcelj^ go by that name elsewhere. Modern methods, modern implements, and modern machinery will produce great results. But the political situation must change before anything can be done. (See his report on political parties.) DISTRICT OF CAYEY. Captain Foster, under date of June 28, 1899, says: There is an opi)ortunity for a business investment in establishing an electric-light plant and a system of waterworks for the city of Cayey. The Plata CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 83 River would furnisli the necessaiy water power for the former, and the natural features in the vicinity are such that an abundance of water can be obtained and supplied to the town by means of a gravity system of waterworks. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas, without dating his report, states : Mayaguez needs a suitable wharf. This should be constructed as soon as possible, as upon this depends, in a large measure, the future prosperity of the city. The opportunities for investment are numerous, varied, and if prop- erly managed would certainly jaeld a substantial return on any amount. Loan associations, it is believed, would do a good business. Coffee and sugar lands could be iDurchased, railways opened, electric-light companies formed, and tobacco handled and marketed. The rich vega (plain) west of San German at the Bapera is a good locality; also the Aiiasco Valley (sabanetas), on the Anasco River. Rich land, suitable for sugar-cane cultivation, can be found near Mayaguez. Cattle can be raised and marketed here at a profit, quite a number of cattle being raised in the above vallej^s. Work oxen are always in demand and are kept in good condition on the sugar-cane strippings and on the native grasses. There seems to be plenty of good grass, which maintains its freshness the year around. The best is known as the "malgillo," a native product, and furnishes the food for horses and cattle, not much grain, if any, being fed the horses. The alcalde of Mayaguez, speaking of that city and its immediate jurisdiction, says: The establishment of an agricultural bank would be a convenience, and a ready market for fruits (produce) would assist materially. Spain or Cuba does not consume coffee, as formerly. There are several (openings for) enterprises in this town which might be mentioned. The most promising one is the foundation of an agricultural bank to supply money on long time ; also the estab- lishment of mercantile firms with sufficient capital to import the necessary provisions and merchandise for the city's consumption. The jurisdiction of Mayaguez is important; its healthy conditions, the evident progressiveness of its population, and the sources of wealth found in its fertile soil make the city an attractive one for business or residence purx^oses. When an agricultural bank with strong capital is established, com- mencing on reasonable terms, with good security, agriculture will resume its former activity — it is now almost at a standstill — commerce will recover its old-time vigor, and industries will spring up, giving abundant opportunities for work among the poor class. SUBDISTRICT OF SAN GERMAN. Lieutenant Hornbrook reports : It is thought that good loan com- panies could do well in this section. Capital invested in water and lighting plants would be profitable. Coffee lands are good invest- ments, Juana Diaz offers but little in the way of investment. DISTRICT OP PONCE. Lieutenant Eames, under date of May, 1899, reports: Ponce offers by far the best chance of investment of any city on the island, or will when the tariff and money questions are settled and 84 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. Puerto Rico is in a position to offer herself for development and investment. Guayanilla and Peiinelas are both sugar centers, and aside from this oifer little to investors or travelers. At present the district offers but little in the waj" of investment, because there is no market for the products of the soil and also because everything- that is brought in from the United States or else- where is verj- heavily taxed, more especially machinery, manufac- tured articles, and the like. With a tax on his products sent to the United States and another on his imj^orts from that country, the planter is ground, as it were, between the two millstones of taxation. The unstable condition of exchange is another hindrance to invest- ors, who find their money changing in value from day to day, and not even the President of the United States has been able to fix a uniform rate of exchange. When these taxes or tariffs are removed and nothing but United States currency is in circulation, then will Puerto Rico offer a rich field to investors, and the district of Ponce, warm and fertile, stretch out her green arms to the world, welcoming in the friendty embrace of her deep and ample harbors the ships of the nations of the world. SHIPPING STATISTICS. ARECIBO. Captain Macomb gives the following data from notes of the custom- house of Arecibo: The following details have been made from the statistics of this custom-house for the year 1897, the last complete year in time of peace : Q. How many vessels touch at this port during the year? — A. From foreign ports, 76 vessels; coasting vessels, 191. Q. What tonnage? — A. The 76 foreign vessels, 81,031 tons; the 191 coasting vessels, 32,586 tons. Q. What is their cargo's value? — A. Imports were worth $818,621 Puerto Rican currency. Exports were worth in the island 11,481,- 770.79 Puerto Rican currency for domestic products. No record as to the value of merchandise carried on coasting vessels. Q. How many kilos of coffee are produced in the district of Arecibo, that of Lares, and other places around this port during the year? — A. Two million three hundred and one thousand three hundred and fifty-nine kilos have been exported. Five hundred and fifty thousand kilos have been carried on coasting vessels to other ports of the island, 500,000 kilos have been eonsumed in the surrounding towns. Out of this amount it is esiimated that one-third was produced at Lares, one-fourth at and around Arecibo, and the balance at Utuado, it being the richest coffee place. Q. Sugar? — A. Export during the yeav 1897 was 2,301,359 kilos; shipped to other ports of the island on coasting vessels, 400,000 kilos. Out of this amount four-fifths has been produced in this jurisdiction and the balance in the outlj'ing barrios. This item is the chief product of this jurisdiction. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 85 Q. Tobacco and other products? — A. The exports of tobacco and other products have been 97,085 kilos. In the above-mentioned year the custom-house gained $226,566.23 in Puerto Rican currency; in other years heavier sums. At present, as the tariff is reduced, it will produce about $50,000, American money. Note by Captain Macomb. — In the above estimates the Puerto Rican peso is valued at 60 cents, American. The kilo is about 2^ pounds. INSECTS KNO^A^N IN PUERTO RICO. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield submits a partial list, as follows: First order, Coleopteras. Fitted month to chew; 4 wings: Beetle. Feeds on rotten plants. Bumblebee. (Distiscus marginales.) Cucubano. {Lampyris noctiluca.) Phosphoric. Caculo. Cundi. (Reddish color.) The bite is poisonous. Second order, Ortopteros. Four wings, 2 flexible and 2 folded: Cockroach. {Blatta orientalis.) There are several kinds, among them the one with an ash color and the common one with mahogany color. Crickets. {Gryllus domesticus.) It is known by the continuous sound it pro- duces. Belongs to the same family as the coqui and locust. Third order, Neuroptera. Round wings: Ant, white ant. ( Termes lucifugus. ) Commonly called come jeu. Lives on the trees. Lion ant. {Myrmeleon fornicarius.) Lives in caves and mounds built in the earth. Fourth order, Himenopteros. Mouth fitted to suck: Ants. There are several kinds, the principal ones the braves (bravas), the fool (bobas), and the ones called berraco and albayarde, or apricot, albari- coque. Wasp. (Vespa vulgaris.) Thebody is spotted, of black and yellow colors. It feeds on vegetable plants. Bees. {Apis mellifica.) Blackish color, spacious wings, and the bite is poi- sonous. Fifth order, Lepidoptera. Sucks by means of a spiral trumpet: Butterflies. There are several colors, some diurnal, crespuscular, and noc- turnal. "They feed themselves with leaves and flowers." Moth. {Fitrea cerella.) They destroy the wall tapestry, cloth, wood, etc. Sixth order, Hemipteros. Suckers: Includes several kinds. The common ones are the bedbug (reddish color and disagreeable odor), flea, jiggers, ringworm (arador), abus, crab louse; and besides, we have the tick that feeds itself from animal blood, burying the head into the skin. Order Arachnida: Tarantula. \ Spider. Centiped. Order Dipteros: Two wings. Mosquitoes {Culex pipiens) : They are troublesome in damp and warm region. Flies: There are several kinds. Gnat. Experanza: There are those of green and gray color. Nadadora seiiorita. Order 8: Pardsitos. Louse of the head {Podicidus Immanus). Small louse. Nit: The egg of a louse. Luis A. Forregrosa. 86 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. WILD BIRDS IN THIS DISTRICT. Guinea fowl, white head and sardine pigeons, turtle dove, partridge, carraos, owl (lechuza), owl, second (mucaros), sorzales, parrots, raven, falcon, blackbird, mocking-bird, martin, swallow, sparrow-hawk, finch. RIVER BIRDS. Yaguazas, cayaretas, Florida ducks, heron, garzones, yaboas, mar- tinete (belong to the heron family), putillas, pelicans, gulls. CIVIL ADMINISTRATION OF AFFAIRS. Major Glassf ord reports : The civil administration of the island derived its powers from the captain-general, who depended directly upon the Crown. The laws which governed the island were promulgated hy announcement of decrees in the Official Gazette of Puerto Rico. These laws were in part legislative enactments of the Cortes of Spain, in part royal decrees, and also simple decrees of the captain-general. Manj^ of these laws and regulations were the result of suggestions from the captain-general to the CroAvn, upon approval of which a decree was issued by the captain-general. These decrees were addressed to the alcaldes of the municipalities into which the island was divided. To these alcaldes was intrusted the execution of the laws and decrees. In 1898 the number of munici- palities was 71; now, 69. Each alcalde was aided in his of&cial duties by a secretarj^ and treasurer, all salaried officials. In addition to these he was assisted by one or more lieutenant alcaldes and a town council, the members of which were nominated either directly by the captain-general or through an election, and served without salary. At present these ofiicials are appointed by the military government. The powers of the alcaldes were general, each being a sort of cap- tain-general in his district; he was the commander of the town police and the fire department, its police judge, controlled the passport sys- tem within his district, and could call upon the civil guard in case of need; he was likewise responsible for the collection of municipal and state taxes, the disbursement of public funds, and the remittance to the secretarj^ of hacienda of the part of the taxes belonging to the Crown and province. The powers of these ofiicials remain substan- tially the same as heretofore. CIVIL OFFICERS WITH DUTIES. Major Glassf ord reports: The civil officers of the island are- divided into two classes, insular and local. The insular ofiicials comprised secretaries, one of which was lately replaced b}^ a solicitor-general; a supreme court, with 7 judges; 2 criminal courts, with 6 "judges; 12 courts of the first instance and instruction (lowest courts of record), with 1 judge each; a bureau of public works; a bureau of education, and a bureau of agriculture and commerce. The duties of these officials are indicated by their titles. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 87 Under these of&cers were numerous assistants, clerks, and attend- ants. The annual cost of the maintenance of the government for the fiscal year of 1898-99 amounted to 14,457,322, Puerto Rican money, o Avhich upward of two millions were devoted to objects that now make no call on the insular treasury. In accordance with General Orders, No. 114, dated August 7, 1899, the courts have been rearranged, but the other officials noted remain the same as before. It is understood, however, that further important changes are soon to be announced. POLITICS AND POLITICAL PARTIES. Major Glassford reports: In 1870 the status of Puerto Rico was changed from a colony to a province of Spain, and deputies to the Cortes at Madrid were elected. At this time the political parties in Puerto Rico were the Spanish party and the Puerto Rican party, and named, respectively, the Con- servatives and the Liberals. From this time practically to the Ameri- can occupation the issue between the two parties was the one to elect Spaniards, the other to elect natives of the countr3^ Owing to the change of status due to the American occupation these parties have been reformed and amalgamated into two other parties, the Liberal and Republican. The present Liberal partj' is practically the old one with the same name with accessions from the former Con- servatives, and it advocates complete autonomy similar to that which Canada possesses. The Republican party is a new organization, which advocates complete political connection with the United States as opposed to extreme autonomist ideas. DISTRICT OF ARECIBO. Captain Macomb, in speaking of the island generally, says : The political parties of the present moment are but two — the Lib- eral party, of which Muiioz Rivera is the acknowledged head, and the Republican party, a sort of aggregation of those members of the Liberal party, who from various reasons, were not jjleased with the leadershix) of Rivera. The former is the one in power, and holds about all the offices. The Rej)ublican party represents those who desire the offices. Both parties are contented v/ith the fact that the American flag flies over them. There is no party or body of men desiring independence for the island. DISTRICT OF AGUADILLA. Captain Mansfield, under date of Maj^ 30, 1899, says (speaking of investments) : But the political situation must change before anything can be done. At jj resent advanceinent and education along modern lines are, in my opinion, retarded and opposed through the influence of one man. Civil government under present conditions would not only dis- courage and X3revent the introduction of new capital for investment, but would result in driving out of the island, especially from the interior, the capital already invested and which has been invested for some years. No American could do more than exist in most places. 88 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO EICO. The military government should continue till the two old political parties of the island are virtually broken up and new parties formed. Changes will then take place gradually. From all the information I have gathered during the past ten months no one but the politicians want a change from the military to civil government till such changes are made in the courts, in the laws, and in the system of taxation as will insure equal rights and protection to all. Then, I am told, will prosperity begin and continue. At present, so far as known, the politicians want to get in power and will then continue under civil government the abuses of Spanish rule, with themselves in the place of the Spaniards. Under such conditions few will care to invest their capital. About one thing all are agreed, and with justice, too; that is, that there should be free trade with the United States. There is no doubt but that the people of Puerto Rico are entitled to that. It will encour- age investments and business of all kinds, and if granted will do much to satisfy the discontented. ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. Major Glassford reports: Justice was formerly administered by the following courts: A supreme court, consisting of 1 chief justice and 6 associates, located at San Juan, which court nearly corresponds to a State or Territorial supreme court in the United States.- The 6 associates also constituted 2 courts of 3 judges each, one being criminal, the other civil, sitting in San Juan. To these were added 2 other courts, with 3 judges each, having criminal jurisdiction, one sitting at Ponce, the other at Maya- guez. These 4 courts, known as audiencia, closely corresponded to an American State circuit court. Below these 4 courts were 12 courts of first instance and instruction, each having 1 judge. Below the judges of first instance and instruction were numerous municipal jus- tices, who had jurisdiction over misdemeanors and civil actions to an amount not to exceed $200, Puerto Rican money. By General Orders, No. 114, Headquarters Department of Puerto Rico, August 7, 1899, the courts were reorganized as follows: A supreme court, sitting at San Juan, composed of 1 chief justice and 4 associate justices, to which is attached a prosecuting attorney, representing the state, and a secretary. The island is divided into 5 judicial districts, whose capitals are San Juan, Ponce, Mayaguez, Arecibo, and Humacao. These district courts are served by 3 judges each, and to each court is attached a prosecuting attorney and a sec- retary. The personnel of these courts consists entirely of native Puerto Ricans. The municipal judges remain unchanged, but for them will soon be substituted municipal courts, consisting of 1 judge and 2 associates. The alcaldes continue to act as judges, having a limited jurisdiction over petty offenders, like the American police courts. All the courts are under the general direction of the military governor, who acts through the solicitor-general and a judicial board, consisting of 5 members, which serves without salary. There is also a provisional court of the United States, established July 1, 1899, consisting of 3 American judges, having jurisdiction over offenses cognizable under United States statutes. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 8^ SYSTEM OF LAND TENURE AND CONVEYANCES. Major Glassforcl reports : It is estimated that about 95 jDer cent of the land of the island is held by individuals, and the remaining 5 per cent bj' the state. Titles to private land may be divided into two classes, viz, fee simple, com- prising, say, 80 per cent of all, and by titulo posesorio. Land held by titulo posesorio, or provisional title, is that land held under temporary deed granted and certified b}" a judge and registrar and which, after twenty years of undisputed holding, transfers the land to the fee- simple class. The conveyance of land is effected through a registrar and a nota- rio ; the conveyor secures a certificate from the registrar as to the own- ership, together with a statement of any incumbrances which may exist upon said land, and he then appears before a notario empowered to draw up deeds and take acknowledgments. The deed is drawn up and acknowledged by this official, who keeps the original as a record of transfer and delivers a copy to the purchaser. This done, the new deed is registered, thus completing the change of title. This method of land conveyance closely resembles the so-called "Torrens," or Aus- tralian system, and has much to commend it. DISTRICT OF MAYAGUEZ. Major Thomas makes report, without date, as follows : Titles to land were obtained from the Spanish Government- much the same as ours, the deeds, mortgages, and sales, whether by x)rivate parties, by auction, or the decrees of the court, being recorded, not being valid otherwise, the record book being kept at the seat of the jurisdiction of the district. Titles to landed j)roperty can be obtained, but to ascertain whether or not a title is perfect a critical examina- tion would have to be made of the record books, no attention being paid to statements made that the title is unclouded, transfers of ownerships, mortgages, notes, liens and executions, and ie\aes being or having to be made a matter of record to insure the validity thereof. The people here are and have been careful of the records, though it takes a lifetime almost to get any direct information. DISTRICT OF PONCE. Lieutenant Eames reports : Public records have been so kept as to render the origin of the ownership of the cities' land in some doubt and also so as to make a report on the manner of entering and holding land difficult. TAXATION. Major Glassford reports: A complete system of taxation of the island has not yet been adjusted, but that relating to real estate has been fixed. Taxation upon real estate has two divisions — country lands and city or towTi property. The country lands are divided into three classes : First, highly culti- vable cane, grass, and commercial timber lands, taxed 1 peso per 90 CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. cuerda (0.94 acre); second, fairly cultivable and poor woodlands, 50 centavos per cuerda; tMrd, poor sandy coast and mountain pas- ture lands, 25 centavos per cuerda. The taxes on real estate in the cities and towns are assessed upon houses at 8 per cent of the clear rent or its equivalent for houses occupied by the owner ; sugar mills and coffee driers are classified as town property and taxed one-fourth of 1 per cent on the value of the property operated by proprietors. If property is controlled by others than the owners, the tax is doubled. Vacant town and city lots are divided into three classes according to location; those of the first class are taxed 5 centavos, second class 2^, and the third class 1 centavo per square meter. Taxes on all real estate whose owners reside abroad is increased 50 per cent on above rate. Exemption from taxation is made upon brick and lime kilns, village huts owned by the occupants, churches and cemeteries, sterile lands and small holdings of second or third class lands devoted to domestic gardening. There are also limited exemptions upon newly drained swamxD lands, newly cleared woodlands planted in coffee, and sandy lands growing cocoanuts. The tax on industry and commerce (liquor, tobacco, etc.) is now being readjusted. The rate of assessment of real estate is fixed by law, but the classi- fication of the property under the law is determined by commissions appointed by the councils of the respective districts. These commis- sions are divided, like real estate, into two classes, country and town. All appeals on the part of the taxpayer are in the first place made to the commissions and councils, and the appeal, if not supported, is referred to the secretary of finance, who makes the final decision. COLLECTION OF TAXES. One-half of the land tax is paid to the insular treasury and the other half to the district or municipality, each of these halves being paid respectively^ at the offices of the collectors of internal revenue and at the depositories of the districts. Taxation — Assessment, Collection of. district of mayaguez. Captain Thomas, in a report that is not dated, but probably written May or .June, 1899, says: City of Mayaguez. — Rate of taxation not known; not yet clearly defined and it will not be so for some time, till regulated by future orders. Hormigueros. — Rate of taxation not known; it belongs to Mayaguez for taxation purposes. Anasco, San German, Sabana Grande, Las Marias, Lajas, and Cabo Rojo : Rate of taxation not known. The question of taxes is important as it stands now, and is the result of the old sj^stem of taxation. How true it is I do know, that a great many owners of small landed property can not pay what is desig- nated' as the state tax. This will have to be changed in some way or the taxes remitted ; otherwise the people mentioned above will lose their properties. CONDITIONS IN PUERTO RICO. 91 EXCHANGE AND CURRENCY. Major Glassford reports : The money of the island consists of Puerto Rican silver and bills and also United States currency. Puerto Rican money, silver and copper, has been issued to the amount of 5,920,000 pesos, of which 45,000 is copper. Bills of the Spanish Bank of Puerto Rico circulate to the amount of 1,794,040 pesos, which bills are redeemable in Puerto Rican silver. There is also a bank in Ponce, witli a capital of 125,000 pesos, which has in circulation a limited amount of bills which have only a local acceptance. The United States currency in circulation on the island is variously estimated at from one to two million dollars. By order of the United States Government, the value of the peso has been fixed at 60 cents, United States currency; but while this value obtains with the peso. United States currency can not be exchanged for Puerto Rican coin or bills at that rate, nor is United States currency accepted at this rate in trade or barter, and in some localities United States money meets with difficult acceptance. SUGGESTIONS FOR REFORMS. Major Glassford reports as follows : In submitting suggestions for reforms to promote the general wel- fare, it may be said in the first place that increased trade relations with the United States are of prime importance. Formerly Puerto Rican products found their way to Spanish and Cuban markets, both of which have been practicallj'^ cut ofE. Any reform that would tend to develop trade with the United States would be of benefit to the island. A market for sugar, coifee, and tobacco is indispensable. Next in order of importance is the improvement or making of roads from the interior to the coast, by which the products of the island may be trans- ported cheaplj^ to seaports. Around the island we have as ports of entry San Juan, Arecibo, Aguadilla, Mayaguez, Guanica, Ponce, Arroyo, Humacao, and Fajardo. These should be connected by good roads, and from these roads others should be built to the agricultural highlands in tlie interior. By such a system of communication the loroducer would b^ enabled to reach a port always within an extreme distance of about 30 miles. /A reduction of the duties on Puerto Rican products entering the United States, and also on some American products entering Puerto Rico, would facilitate the development of trade relations with the United States./ It would have for its first effect a greatly increased ijroduction of all the principal commodities, and this would give emjDlojnnent to more people, increase wages, and consequently enable them to better meet the expenses of the government and develop its capabilities. By a removal of the duty on Puerto Rican sugar in the United States its output would be more than doubled, while a corresponding increase would doubtless take place in the coffee and tobacco output. It would also be advantageous to remove the existing duty in Puerto Rico on machinery and its repair parts that are used in tlie ijroduction of these articles. Lumber is also an article of prime necessity, together with materials used in the construction of dwellinss. 92 CONDITIONS IX PUERTO RICO. The removal of import dnty on certain articles of consnmption, such as codfish, rice, etc., will not, under the existing conditions of retail trade, much diminish the price to the consumer, for the present duty is very low, and the small amounts usually purchased at one time by the consumer deprives him of material benefit. On the other hand, the necessary revenue might be obtained by increased duty on many articles of luxury and increasing the excise tax, especially on rum. It is also well to note that in developing trade relations with Puerto Rico due consideration must be given to the peculiar wants and pref- erences of the people, who have been accustomed to types and styles of goods different to those used in the United States. In order to promote closer relations between Puerto Rico and the United States and thus bring about increased trade, it would be wise to reduce the present postal rates and make them the same as the United States domestic rates, thereby facilitating corresi^ondence and increasing tlie familiarity, of the Puerto Ricans with the United States and its manufactures to the people, following in this respect the existing postal regulations between Canada and Mexico with the United States. Once a market for the i^roduce of the island is found, capital will be needed for the development of its resources, and this capital will then be forthcoming by loans which will be comx3aratively easy to negotiate because of increased security. It is stated that about one-half of the 5,920,000 pesos of the present circulation is in the hands of individ- uals and the other half in bank. This currency should be withdraAvn and United States currency substituted, so as to facilitate as much as possible our trade relations with this island. /Attention is called to the possibility of developing the water power of the island, which is very large and valuable. • The constant and abundant rainfall throughout the year supplies the rivers, the mouths of which are advantageously distributed at comparatively equal inter- vals around the island. These rivers coine from the high central dis- tricts, have good permanent flow and rapid fall, and may also be utilized for irrigation; and there would be small need for large and costly reservoirs. This resource in water power is extremely important on account of the fact that there is no coal and little other native f uel. / It is believed that the above suggestion, if approved, will tend 4o promote the welfare of the inhabitants of the island, and that the revenues necessary for tlie expenses of the government will be obtained from the customs and through an increase of duty upon articles of luxury and by an increased excise tax upon rum and tobacco. Page. Administration of justice 88 Agriculture — plantations and farms 25 Agricultural crops 25 Agricultural products - 20 Assessment and collection of taxes 89 Banks 59, 78 Births, illegitimate - 47 Bonded indebtedness 73 Business enterprises 75 Cable lines 69 Charitable institutions 25, 60 Churches and church property 79 Circular No. 10 ~ 3 Civic conditions 5 Civil administration of affairs 86 Climate 13 Coal 16 Coffee 8, 22, 29 Collection of taxes 90 Conveyancing, system of 89 Copper 16, 17, 18 Crimes 6 Crops, principal, with markets and value 25 Currency 91 Davis, Gen. George W. , letter of transmittal 5 Distances, table of 53 Education 49 Electric lights • 68 Enterprises, manufacturing and business 75 Exchange 91 Farms 25 Fire department of Ponce 61 Flowers, domestic and wild, list of 21 Food 48 Forest, extent of 18 Fruits, wild and cultivated, list of 28 Geographical features 7, 9, 10, 11, 12 Geology 7,9 Government relief 45 Gold 17 Harbors , 12,54 Horses 33 Horticultural crops 25 Improvements : Needed 82 State of 24 Indebtedness 73 Inland transportation facilities 37 Insects known in Puerto Rico 85 Investinent companies 78 Investment, opportunities for 82 Irrigation 13 Iron 17 Islands pertaining to Puerto Rico 13 Justice, administration of 88 Land tenure and conveyancing 89 Lands, public , • 23 Language 47 Lighting, electric 68 93 94 INDEX. Page. Lumber 18 Price of 19 Marriages 48 Maps 9,10 Mineral resources 16 Mines operated 16 Missions and missionaries 79 Money 91 Mortality 48,57 Momitain ranges 11, 12 Municipalities. {See Cities and towns.) Opportmiities for investment 82 Phosphates 17 Physical features -. 7 Plantations 25 Police of — Ponce 62 San Juan 64 Politics and political parties 87 Population — • Known or estimated 43 Character of 43 Ports 12,54 Post-offices 66 Power, water, available •. 41 Prices of products 27 Professions represented 81 Public lands 23 Races represented on island 43, 46, 47, 56 Eailroads 39 Eailroad — Mileage, constructed and proposed 39 Stocks - , 39 Street 55, 67 Rainfall 13,16,57,71 Reforms suggested 91 Rivers 10,11,12 Rum 30 Sanitar j^ conditions 74 Schools 49 Shipping statistics 84 Soil, character and products of 8, 20 Statistics, shipping 84 Street railways 67 Sugar 31,35 Suggestions for reforms , 91 System of land tenure and conveyance 89 Taxation - 89 Telegraph lines ." 69 Telephones : 60, 69 Temperature 14, 15 Timber 18 Tobacco - 35, 36 Towns, description of 52 Transportation facilities 37 Treasuries 24 Trees 18 Tropical fruits 26 Vital statistics 47 Wages. 6, 43 Water power, available 41 Water supply i 71 Waterworks 71 Weather Bureau 13 Wheat .- 33 Woman's Aid Society 65 o LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 015 816 505 3