. *m flass Pf? 4 3.tr 7 Book kl TfO CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE BY LORD BYRON NEW YORK THE MERSHON COMPANY PUBLISHERS " L'univers est une espece de livre, dont on n'a lu que la premiere page quand on n'a vu que son pays. J'en ai feuillete un assez grand nombre, que j'ai trouvd dgalement mauvaises. Cet examen ne m'a point e'te infructueux. Je haissais ma patrie. Toutes les impertinences des peuples divers, parmi lesquels j'ai ve'cu- m'ont re'concilie' avec elle. Quand je n'aurals tire* d'autre be'ne'fice de mes voyages que celui-la, je n'en regretterais ni les frais ni les fatigues." — Le Cosmopolite. ay '* itOf PREFACE TO THE FIRST AND SECOND CANTOS. The following poem was written, for the most part, amidst the scenes which it attempts to describe. It was begun in Albania ; and the parts relative to Spain and Portugal were composed from the author's observations in those countries. Thus much it may be neces- sary to state for the correctness of the descrip- tions. The scenes attempted to be sketched are in Spain, Portugal, Epirus, Acarnania, and Greece. There, for the present, the poem stops : its reception will determine whether the author may venture to conduct his readers to the capital of the East, through Ionia and Phrygia : these two Cantos are merely experi- mental. A fictitious character is introduced for the sake of giving some connection to the piece- which, however, makes no pretensions to regu- larity. It has bee* suggested to me by friends, on whose opinions I set a high value, that in this fictitious character, " Childe Harold," I may incur the suspicion of having intended some real personage : this I beg leave, once for all, to disclaim. Harold is a child of im- agination for the purpose I have stated. I» %xtim. some very trivial particulars, and those merely local, there might be grounds for such a notion ; but in the main points, I should hope, none whatever. It is almost superfluous to mention that the appellation " Childe," as " Childe Waters," " Childe Childers," etc., is used as more con- sonant with the old structure of versification which I have adopted. The " Good Night," in the beginning of the first Canto, was suggested by " Lord Maxwell's Good Night," in the Bor- der Mi?istrelsy, edited by Mr. Scott. With the different poems which have been published on Spanish subjects, there may be found some slight coincidence in the first part which treats of the Peninsula ; but it can only be casual, as, with the exception of a few con- cluding stanzas, the whole of this poem was written in the Levant. The stanza of Spenser, according to one of our most successful poets, admits of every va- riety. Dr. Beattie makes the following observa- tion : — " Not long ago, I began a poem in the style and stanza of Spenser, in which I propose to give full scope to my inclination, and be either droll or pathetic, descriptive or sentimental, tender or satirical, as the humor strikes me : for, if I mistake not, the measure which I have adopted admits equally of all these kinds of composition." Strengthened in my opinion by such authority, and by the example of some in the highest order of Italian poets, I shall make no apology for attempts at similar varia- ^Ktfm. tions in the following composition ; satisfied that, if they are unsuccessful, their failure must be in the execution rather than in the design, sanctioned by the practice of Ariosto, Thomson, and Beattie. London, February \ 1812. ADDITION TO THE PREFACE. I have now waited till almost all our periodi- cal journals have distributed their usual portion of criticism. To the justice of the generality of their criticisms I have nothing to object : it would ill become me to quarrel with their very slight degree of censure, when, perhaps, if they had been less kind, they had been more can- did. Returning, therefore, to all and each my best thanks for their liberality, on one point alone shall I venture an observation. Amongst the many objections justly urged to the very indifferent character of the " vagrant Childe " (whom, notwithstanding many hints to the contrary, I will maintain to be a fictitious personage), it has been stated that, besides the anachronism, he is very imknightly, as the times of the Knights were times of Love, Honor and so forth. Now, it so happens that the good old times, when " l'amour du bon vieux terns, Pamour antique" flourished, were the most profligate of all possible centuries. Those who have any doubts on this subject 6 gjrefaff. may consult Sainte-Palaye, passim, and more particularly vol. ii., p. 69. The vows of chiv- alry were no better kept than any other vows -whatsoever ; and the songs of the Troubadours •were not more decent, and certainly were much less refined, than those of Ovid. The " Cours d'amour, parlemens d'amour, ou de courtesie et de gentilesse," had much more of love than of courtesy or gentleness. See Roland on the same subject with Saint-Palaye. Whatever other objection may be urged to that most unamiable personage, Childe Harold, lie was so far perfectly knightly in his attri- butes — "No waiter but a knight templar."* By the by, I fear that Sir Tristrem and Sir Lancelot were no better than they should be, -although very poetical personages and true knights, " sans peur," though not " sans re- proche." If the story of the institution of the "Garter" be not a fable, the knights of that order have for several centuries borne the badge of a Countess of Salisbury, of indiffer- ent memory. So much for chivalry. Burke need not have regretted that its days are over, though Marie-Antoinette was quite as chaste as most of those in whose honor lances were shivered and knights unhorsed. Before the days of Bayard, and down to those of Sir Joseph Banks (the most chaste and celebrated of ancient and modern times), few exceptions will be found to this state- *77u Rover s % or the Double Arrangement, 85 wfacc. 7 ment: and I fear a little investigation will teach us not to regret these monstrous mum- meries of the middle ages. I now leave " Childe Harold " to live his day, such as he is. It had been more agreeable, and certainly more easy, to have drawn an amiable character. It had been easy to var- nish over his faults, to make him do more and express less ; but he never was intended as an example, further than to show that early per- version of mind and morals leads to satiety of past pleasures and disappointment in new ones, and that even the beauties of nature and the stimulus of travel (except ambition, the most powerful of all excitements) are lost on a soul so constituted, or rather misdirected. Had I proceeded with the poem, this character would have deepened as he drew to the close ; for the outline which I once meant to fill up for him was, with some exceptions, the sketch of a modern Timon, perhaps a poetical Zeluco. London, 1813. TO IANTHE* Not in those climes where I have late been straying, Though Beauty long hath there been match- less deem'd, Not in those visions to the heart displaying Forms which it sighs but to have only dream'd, Hath aught like thee in truth or fancy seem'd : Nor, having seen thee, shall I vainly seek To paint those charms which varied as they beam'd — To such as see thee not my words were weak ; To those who gaze on thee, what language could they speak ? Ah ! may'st thou ever be what now thou art, Nor unbeseem the promise of thy spring, As fair in form, as warm yet pure in heart, Love's image upon earth without his wing, And guileless beyond Hope's imagining ! And surely she who now so fondly rears * Lady Charlotte Harley, daughter of the Earl of Oxford, afterwards Lady C. Bacon. io £0 ganthc Thy youth, in thee, thus hourly brightening, Beholds the rainbow of her future years. Before whose heavenly hues all sorrow dis- appears. Young Peri of the West ! — 'tis well for me My years already doubly number thine ; My loveless eye unmoved may gaze on thee, And safely view thy ripening beauties shine : Happy, I ne'er shall see them in decline ; Happier, that while all younger hearts shall bleed, Mine shall escape the doom thine eyes assign To those whose admiration shall succeed, But mix'd with pangs to Love's even loveliest hours decreed. Oh ! let that eye, which, wild as the gazelle's, Now brightly bold or beautifully shy, Wins as it wanders, dazzles where it dwells, Glance o'er this page, nor to my verse deny That smile for which my breast might vainly sigh, Could I to thee be ever more than friend : This much, dear maid, accord : nor question why To one so young my strain I would commend. But bid me with my wreath one matchless lily blend. 8* iawthe. ii Such is thy name with this my verse en- twined ; And long as kinder eyes a look shall cast On Harold's page, Ianthe's here enshrined Shall thus be first beheld, forgotten last: My days once number'd, should this homage past Attract thy fairy fingers near the lyre Of him who hail'd thee, loveliest as thou wast, Such is the most my memory may desire ; Though more than Hope can claim, could Friendship less require ? Childe Harold's Pilgrimage. 1812. CANTO THE FIRST. Oh, thou, in Hellas deem'd of heavenly birth, Muse, form'd or fabled at the minstrel's will ! Since shamed full oft by later lyres on earth, Mine dares not call thee from thy sacred hill: Yet there I've wander'd by thy vaunted rill ; Yes ! sigh'd o er Delphi's long-deserted shrine,* Where, save that feeble fountain, all is still ; Nor mote my shell awake the weary Nine To grace so plain a tale — this lowly lay of mine. * The little village of Castri stands partly on the site of Delphi. Along the path of the mountain, from Chrysso, are the remains of sepulchres hewn in and from the rock ; "one," said the guide, " of a king who broke his neck hunting." His majesty had certainly chosen the fittest spot for such an achievement. A little above Castri is a cave, supposed the Pythian, of immense depth ; the upper part of it is paved, and now 14 (£U'Mt Sftftflft Jitcjrimagc. Whilome in Albion's isle there dwelt a youth, Who ne in virtue's ways did take delight ; But spent his days in riot most uncouth, And vex'd with mirth the drowsy ear of Night Ah, me ! in sooth he was a shameless wight, Sore given to revel and ungodly glee; Few earthly things found favour in his sight Save concubines and carnal companie, And Haunting wassailers of high and low degree. in. Childe Harold was he bight; — but whence his name And lineage long, it suits me not to say; Suffice it, that perchance they were of fame, And bad been glorious in another day: But one sad losel soils a name for aye, However mighty in the olden time ; Nor all that heralds rake from comn'd clay, Nor florid prose, nor honey'd lines of rhyme, Can blazon evil deeds, or consecrate a crime. a cow-house. On the other side of Castri stands a Greek monastery : some way above which is the cleft in the rock, with a range of caverns difficult of ascent, and apparently leading to the interior of the mountain, probably to the Corycian Cavern mentioned by Pau- sanias. From this part descend the fountain and the 44 Dews of Castalie." (£hUd* Steroid^ gilgrimaor. 15 IV. Childe Harold bask'd him in the noontide sun, Disporting there like any other fly, Nor deem'd before his little day was done One blast might chill him into misery. But long ere scarce a third of his pass'd by, Worse than adversity the Childe befell ; He felt the fulness of satiety : Then loathed he in his native land to dwell, Which seem'd to him more lone than Eremite's sad cell. For he through Sin's long labyrinth had run, Nor made atonement when he did amiss, Had sigh'd to many, though he loved but one, And that loved one, alas, could ne'er be his. Ah, happy she I to 'scape from him whose kiss Had been pollution unto aught so chaste; Who soon had left her charms for vulgar bliss, And spoil'd her goodly lands to gild his waste, Nor calm domestic peace had ever deign'd to taste. 46 Child? JUroltTiGi Jilgrimage. VI. And now Childe Harold was sore sick at heart, And from his fellow bacchanals would flee ; 'Tis said, at times the sullen tear would start, But pride congeal'd the drop within his e'e. Apart he stalk'd in joyless reverie, And from his native land resolved to go, And visit scorching climes beyond the sea : With pleasure drugg'd, he almost longed for woe, And e'en for change of scene would seek the shades below. VII. The Childe departed from his father's hall : It was a vast and venerable pile ; So old, it seemed only, not to fall, Yet strength was pillar'd in each massy aisle. Monastic dome! condemn'd to uses vile ! Where Superstition once had made her den, Now Paphian girls were known to sing and smile ; And monks might deem their time was come agen, It ancient tales say true, nor wrong these holy men. MIL Yet ofttimes, in his maddest mirthful mood, Strange pangs would flash along Childe Harold's brow OHto ItewHfjsi gHgtimagr. 17 As if the memory of some deadly feud Or disappointed passion lurk'd below : But this none knew, nor haply cared to know ; For his was not that open, artless soul That feels relief by bidding sorrow flow ; Nor sought he friend to counsel or condole. Whate'er this grief mote be, which he could not control. IX. And none did love him : though to hall and bower He gather'd revellers from far and near, He knew them flatterers of the festal hour ; The heartless parasites of present cheer. Yea, none did love him — not his lemans dear — But pomp and power alone are woman's care, And where these are light Eros finds a feere ; Maidens, like moths, are ever caught by glare, And Mammon wins his way where Seraphs might despair. x. Childe Harold had a mother — not forgot, Though parting from that mother he did shun; 2 1 8 Child* gawiM** jnigvimaoc. A sister whom he loved, but saw her not Before his weary pilgrimage begun : If friends he had, he bade adieu to none. Yet deem not thence his breast a breast of steel ; Ye, who have known what 'tis to dote upon A few dear objects, will in sadness feel Such partings break the heart they fondly hope to heal. XI. His house, his home, his heritage, his lands, The laughing dames in whom he did de- light, Whose large blue eyes, fair locks, and snowy hands, Might shake the saintship of an anchorite, And long had fed hie youthful appetite ; His goblets brimmed with every costly wine, And all that mote to luxury invite, Without a sigh he left to cross the brine, And traverse Paynim shores, and pass Earth's central line. XII. The sails were fill'd, and fair the light winds blew, As glad to waft him from his native home ; And fast the white rocks faded from his view, And soon were lost in circumambient foam ; <*Mfo gawttTg gilgrimafle. And then, it may be, of his wish to roam Repented he, but in his bosom slept The silent thought, nor from his lips did come One word of wail, whilst others sate and wept, And to the reckless gales unmanly moaning kept. XIII. But when the sun was sinking in the sea, He seized his harp, which he at times could string, And strike, albeit with untaught melody, When deem'd he no strange ear was listen- ing : And now his fingers o'er it he did fling, And turned his farewell in the dim twilight, While flew the vessel on her snowy wing, And fleeting shores receded from his sight, Thus to the elements he pour'd his last " Good Night." Adieu, adieu ! my native shore Fades o'er the waters blue ; The night-winds sigh, the breakers roar, And shrieks the wild sea-mew. Yon sun that sets upon the sea We follow in his flight ; Farewell awhile to him and thee, My native Land — Good Night ! 20 (tWAt garoto'jBi g Hgrimagf. A few short hours, and he will rise To give the morrow birth ; And I shall hail the main and skies, But not my mother earth. Deserted is my own good hall, Its hearth is desolate ; Wild weeds are gathering on the wall, My dog howls at the gate. " Come hither, hither, my little page : Why dost thou weep and wail ? Or dost thou dread the billow's rage, Or tremble at the gale ? But dash the tear-drop from thine eye, Our ship is swift and strong ; Our fleetest falcon scarce can fly More merrily along." u Let winds be shrill, let waves roll high, I fear not wave nor wind ; Yet marvel not, Sir Childe, that I Am sorrowful in mind ; For I have from my father gone, A mother whom I love, And have no friend, save these alone, But thee — and One above. " My father bless'd me fervently, Yet did not much complain ; But sorely will my mother sigh Till I come back again." — mite Steroid'* gilgrimage. 21 « Enough, enough, my little lad ! Such tears become thine eye ; If I thy guileless bosom had, Mine own would not be dry. « Come hither, hither, my staunch yeoman, Why dost thou look so pale ? Or dost thou dread a French foeman, Or shiver at the gale ? "— " Deem'st thou I tremble for my life? Sir Childe, I'm not so weak ; But thinking on an absent wife Will blanch a faithful cheek. " My spouse and boys dwell near thy hall, Along the bordering lake ; And when they on their father call, What answer shall she make ? " — " Enough, enough, my yeoman good, Thy grief let none gainsay ; But I, who am of lighter mood, Will laugh to flee away." For who would trust the seeming sighs Of wife or paramour ? Fresh feeres will dry the bright blue eyes W r e late saw streaming o'er. For pleasures past I do not grieve, Nor perils gathering near ; My greatest grief is that I leave No thing that claims a tear. 22 Child* gntotd^ gilgrimage. And now I'm in the world alone, Upon the wide, wide sea ; But why should I for others groan, When none will sigh for me ? Perchance my dog will whine in vain, Till fed by stranger hands ; But long ere I come back again He'd tear me where he stands. With thee, my bark, I'll swiftly go Athwart the foaming brine ; Nor care what land thou bear'st me to, So not again to mine. Welcome, welcome, ye dark blue waves! And when you fail my sight, Welcome, ye deserts, and ye caves ! My native land — Good Night ! XIV. On, on the vessel flies, the land is gone, And winds are rude in Biscay's sleepless bay. Four days are sped, but with the fifth, anon, New shores descried make every bosom gay ; And Cintra's mountain greets them on their way. And Tagus dashing onward to the deep, His fabled golden tribute bent to pay ; And soon on board the Lusian pilots leap, And steer 'twixt fertile shores where yet few rustics reap. Child* JtaroWiS gitgrimag*. 23 xv. Oh, Christ ! it is a goodly sight to see What Heaven hath done for this delicious land! What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree ! What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand ! But man would mar them with an impious hand : And when the Almighty lifts His fiercest scourge 'Gainst those who most transgress His high command, With treble vengeance will His hot shafts urge Gaul's locust host, and earth from fellest foe* men purge. xvr. What beauties doth Lisboa first unfold ! Her image floating on that noble tide, Which poets vainly pave with sands of gold, But now whereon a thousand keels did ride Of mighty strength, since Albion was allied, And to the Lusian- did her aid afford : A nation swoll'n with ignorance and pride, Who lick, yet loathe, the hand that waves the sword To save them from the wrath of Gaul's un- sparing lord. 24 (fhititc 9*X*W$ yitflrimagc. XVII. But whoso entereth witliin this town, That, sheening far, celestial seems to be* Disconsolate will wander up and down, 'Mid many things unsightly to strange e'e; For hut and palace .show like filthily; The dingy denizens are rear'd in dirt ; No personage of high or mean degree Doth care for cleanness of surtout or shirt, Though shunt with Egypt's plague, unkempt, unwash'd, unhurt. XVIII. Poor, paltry slaves ! yet born 'midst noblest scenes — Why, Nature, waste thy wonders on such men ? Lo ! Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes In variegated maze of mount and glen. Ah me ! what hand can pencil guide, or pen, To follow half on which the eye dilates Through views more dazzling unto mortal ken Than those whereof such things the bard relates, Who to the awe-struck world unlock'd Elysium's gates ? XIX. The horrid crags, by toppling convent crown'd, The cork-trees hoar that clothe the shaggy steep, ChMe garoIM gilgrimage. 25 The mountain moss by scorching skies imbrown'd, The sunken glen, whose sunless shrubs must weep, The tender azure of the unruffled deep, The orange tints that gild the greenest bough, The torrents that from cliff to valley leap, The vine on high, the willow branch below, Mix'd in one mighty scene, with varied beauty glow. XX. Then slowly climb the many-winding way, And frequent turn to linger as you go, From loftier rocks new loveliness survey, And rest ye at " Our Lady's House of Woe ; " * Where frugal monks their little relics show, And sundry legends to the Stranger tell : Here impious men have punish'd been; and lo, Deep in yon cave Honorius long did dwell, In hope to merit Heaven by making earth a Hell. * The convent of " Our Lady of Punishment," Nossa Senora By myriads, when they dare to pave their way With human hearts— to what ?— a dream alone. . Can despots compass aught that hails their sway ? 11- Or call with truth one span of earth their own, Save that wherein at last they crumble bone by bone ? XLIII. O Albuera, glorious field of grief I As o'er thy plain the Pilgrim prick d his steed, 38 Child* gtafttA'j gitgrimagf. Who could foresee thee, in a space so brief, A scene where mingling foes should boast and bleed ? Peace to the perish'd ! may the warrior's meed And tears of triumph their reward prolong 1 Till others fall where other chieftains lead, Thy name shall circle round the gaping throng, And shine in worthless lays, the theme of XLIV. Enough of Battle's minions ! let them play Their game of lives, and barter breath for fame : Fame that will scarce reanimate their clay, Though thousands fall to deck some single name. In sooth, 'twere sad to thwart their noble aim Who strike, blest hirelings ! for their country's good, And die, that living might have proved her shame ; Perish'd, perchance, in some domestic feud, Or in a narrower sphere wild Rapine's path pursued. XLV. Full swiftly Harold wends his lonely way Where proud Sevilla triumphs unsubdued: m\fa garoWi* gitgtimafie. 39 Yet is she free— the spoiler's wish'd-for prey ! Soon, soon shall Conquest's fiery foot in- trude, Blackening her lovely domes with traces rude. Inevitable hour ! 'Gainst fate to strive Where Desolation plants her famish'd brood Is vain, or Ilion, Tyre, might yet survive, A-nd Virtue vanquish all, and Murder cease to thrive. XLVI. But all unconscious of the coming doom, The feast, the song, the revel here abounds ; Strange modes of merriment the hours con- sume, Noi bleed these patriots with their country s wounds ; Nor here War's clarion, but Love's rebeck sounds ; Here Folly still his votaries enthralls, And young-eyed Lewdness walks her mid- night rounds: Girt with the silent crimes of capitals, Still to the last kind Vice clings to the totter- ing walls. XLVI I. Not so the rustic : with his trembling mate He lurks, nor casts his heavy eye afar, 40 (fhilde &*X$W* gitflttttftje. Lest he should view his vineyard desolate, Blasted below the dun hot breath of war. No more beneath soft Eve's consenting star Fandango twirls his jocund Castanet : Ah, monarchs ! could ye taste the mirth ye mar, Not in the toils of Glory would ye fret ; The hoarse dull drum would sleep, and Man be happy yet. XLVIII. How carols now the lusty muleteer ? Of love, romance, devotion is his lay, As whilome he was wont the leagues to cheer. His quick bells wildly jingling on the way? No ! as he speeds, he chants " Viva el Rey ! " * And check his song to execrate Godoy, The royal wittol Charles, and curse the day * " Viva el Rey Fernando ! " Long live King Ferdi- nand ! is the chorus of most of the Spanish patriotic songs. They are chierly in dispraise of the old King Charles, the Queen, and the Prince of Peace. I have heard many of them : some of the airs are beautiful. Don Manuel Godoy, the Principe de la Paz, of an ancient but decayed family, was born at Badajoz, on the frontiers of Portugal, and was originally in the ranks of the Spanish guards: till his person attracted the queen's eyes, and raised him to the dukedom of Alcudia, etc., etc. It is to this man that the Spaniards univer sally impute the ruin of their country, (Child* '§i\xoUV$ gilnnmage. 41 When first Spain's queen beheld the black- eyed boy, And gore-faced Treason sprung from her adulterate joy. XLIX. On yon long level plain, at distance crown'd With crags, whereon those Moorish turrets rest, Wide scatter'd hoof-marks dint the wounded ground ; And, scathed by fire, the greensward's dark- en'd vest Tells that the foe was Andalusia's guest : Here was the camp, the watch-flame, and the host, Here the brave peasant storm'd the dragon's nest ; Still does he mark it with triumphant boast, And points to yonder cliffs, which oft were won and lost. L. And whomsoe'er along the path you meet Bears in his cap the badge of crimson hue, * Which tells you whom to shun and whom to greet : Woe to the man that walks in public view Without of loyalty this token true : Sharp is the knife, and sudden is the stroke; ♦The red cockade, with "Fernando VII." in the centre. 42 (tilxMt %bnvoW$ gitanroage. And sorely would the Gallic foeman rue, If subtle poniards, wrapt beneath the cloke, Could blunt the sabre's edge, or clear the cannon's smoke. LI. At every turn Morena's dusky height Sustains aloft the battery's iron load ; And, far as mortal eye can compass sight, The mountain howitzer, the broken road, The bristling palisade, the fosse o'errlow'd, The station'd bands, the never-vacant watch, The magazine in rocky durance stow'd, The holster'd steed beneath the shed of thatch, The ball-piled pyramid, the ever-blazing match, LII. Portend the deeds to come : — but he whose nod Has tumbled feebler despots from their sway, A moment pauseth ere he lifts the rod ; A little moment deigneth to delay : Soon will his legions sweep through these their way : The West must own the Scourger of the world. Ah, Spain ! how sad will be thy reckoning day, (EMfo gatold^ git0rima0*. 43 When soars Gaul's Vulture, with his wings unfurled, And thou shalt view thy sons in crowds to Hades hurled. LIII. And must they fall — the young, the proud, the brave — To swell one bloated chief's unwholesome reign ? No step between submission and a grave ? The rise of rapine and the fall of Spain ? And doth the power that man adores ordain Their doom, nor heed the suppliant's appeal ? Is all that desperate Valour acts in vain ? And Counsel sage, and patriotic Zeal, The Veteran's skill, Youth's fire, and Man- hood's heart of steel ? LIV. Is it for this the Spanish maid, aroused, Hangs on the willow her unstrung guitar, And, all unsex'd, the anlace hath espoused, Sung the loud song, and dared the deed of war? And she, whom once the semblance of a scar Appall'd, an owlet's larum chill'd with dread, Now views the column-scattering bayonet jar, 44 ChiUU gurtftA'* £itflrimage. The falchion flash, and o'er the yet warm dead Stalks with Minerva's step where Mars might quake to tread. lv. Ye who shall marvel when you hear her tale, Oh ! had you known her in her softer hour, Mark'd her black eye that mocks her coal- black veil, 1 Irani her li.u r ht, lively tones in lady's bower, Seen her long locks that foil the painter's power. Her fairy form, with more than female grace, Scarce would you deem that Saragoza's tower Beheld her smile in Danger's Gorgon face, Thin the closed ranks, and lead in Glory's fearful chase. LVI. Her lover sinks — she sheds no ill-tim'd tear ; Her chief is slain — she fills his fatal post; Her fellows flee — she checks their base career ; The foe retires — she heads the sallying host: Who can appease like her a lover's ghost? Who can avenge so well a leader's fall ? What maid retrieve when man's flush'd hope is lost ? Chita* 'QMoWt gitgtimag*, 45 Who hang so fiercely on the flying Gaul, Foil'd by a woman's hand, before a battered wall?* LVII. Yet are Spain's maids no race of Amazons, But form'd for all the witching arts of love : Though thus in arms they emulate her sons, And in the horrid phalanx dare to move, Tis but the tender fierceness of the dove, Pecking the hand that hovers o'er her mate : In softness as in firmness far above Remoter females, famed for sickening prate ; Her mind is nobler sure, her charms perchance as great. LVIII. The seal Love's dimpling finger hath im- pressed Denotes how soft that chin which bears his his touch : f Her lips, whose kisses pout to leave their nest, Bid man be valiant ere he merit such : ♦Such were the exploits of the Maid of Saragoza, ^rho by her valour elevated herself to the highest rank of heroines. When the author was at Seville, she vralked daily on the Prado, decorated with medals and orders, by command of the Junta. t " Sigilla in mento impressa Amoris digitulo Vestigo demonstrant mollitudinem." — Aul. Gel. 46 Childe garold^ pilgrimage. Her glance, how wildly beautiful ! how much Hath Phoebus woo'd in vain to spoil her cheek, Which glows yet smoother from his amor- ous clutch ! Who round the North for paler dames would seek? How poor their forms appear! how languid, wan, and weak ! LIX. Match me, ye climes ! which poets love to laud ; Match me, ye harems of the land ! where now I strike my strain, far distant, to applaud Beauties that even a cynic must avow ! Match me those houris, whom ye scarce allow To taste the gale lest Love should ride the wind, With Spain's dark-glancing daughters — deign to know, There your wise Prophet's paradise we find, His black-eyed maids of Heaven, angelically kind. LX. Oh thou, Parnassus ! whom I now survey, Not in the frenzy of a dreamer's eye, Not in the fabled landscape of a lay, (StoMt l&zvoWfi pilgrimage. 47 But soaring snow-clad through thy native sky, In the wild pomp of mountain majesty ! What marvel if I thus essay to sing ? The humblest of thy pilgrims passing by Would gladly woo thine echoes with his string, Though from thy heights no more one muse will wave her wing. LXI. Oft have I dream'd of thee ! whose glorious name Who knows not, knows not man's divinest lore : And now I view thee, 'tis, alas, with shame That I in feeblest accents must adore. When I recount thy worshippers of yore I tremble, and can only bend the knee ; Nor raise my voice, nor vainly dare to soar, But gaze beneath thy cloudy canopy In silent joy to think at last I look on thee ! LXII. Happier in this than mightiest bards have been, Whose fate to distant homes confined their lot, Shall I unmoved behold the hallow'd scene, Which others rave of, though they know it not? 48 (ThiUlc XtaroUr.s pilgrimage. Though here no more Apollo haunts his g rot > And thou, the Muses' seat, art now their grave, Some gentle spirit till pervades the spot, Sighs in the gale, keeps silence in the cave, And glides with glassy foot o'er yon melodious wave. LXIII. Of thee hereafter. — Even amidst my strain I turn'd aside to pay my homage here ; Forgot the land, the sons, the maids of Spain ; Her fate, to every free born bosom dear ; And hail'd thee, not perchance without a tear. Now to my theme — but from thy holy haunt Let me some remnant, some memorial bear; Yield me one leaf of Daphne's deathless plant, .Nor let thy votary's hope be deem'd an idle vaunt. LXIV. But ne'er didst thou, fair Mount, when Greece was young, See round thy giant base a brighter choir ; Nor e'er did Delphi, when her priestess sung The Pythian hymn with more than mortaj fire, Child* garotte g itgnmage, 49 Behold a train more fitting to inspire The song of love than Andalusia's maids, Nurst in the glowing lap of soft desire : Ah ! that to these were given such peaceful shades As Greece can still bestow, though Glory fly her glades. LXV. Fair is proud Seville ; let her country boast Her strength, her wealth, her site of ancient days, But Cadiz, rising on the distant coast, Calls forth a sweeter, though ignoble praise. Ah, Vice ! how soft are thy voluptuous ways ! While boyish blood is mantling, who can 'scape The fascination of thy magic gaze ? A Cherub-hydra round us dost thou gape, And mould to every taste thy dear delusive shape. LXVI. When Paphos fell by time — accursed Time ! The Queen who conquers all must yield to thee — The Pleasures fled, but sought as warm a clime ; And Venus, constant to her native sea, 4 50 (fhildc $WttWt gilfpiuUtgA To nought else constant, hither deign'd to flee, And fix'd her shrine within these walls of white ; Though not to one dome circumscribeth she Her worship, but, devoted to her rite, A thousand altars rise, forever blazing bright. LXVII. From morn till night, from night till startled Morn Peeps blushing on the revel's laughing crew, The song is heard, the rosy garland worn ; Devices quaint, and frolics ever new, Tread on each other's kibes. A long adieu He bids to sober joy that here sojourns : Nought interrupts the riot, though in lieu Of true devotion monkish incense burns, And love and prayer unite, or rule the hour by turns. LXVIII. The Sabbath comes, a day of blessed rest; What hallows it upon this Christian shore ? Lo ! it is sacred to a solemn feast : Hark ! heard you not the forest monarch's roar ? Crashing the lance, he snuffs the spouting gore Child* ggfvlft'tf gUgrimafle. 51 Of man and steed, o'erthrown beneath his horn : The throng'd arena shakes with shouts for more ; Yells the mad crowd o'er entrails freshly torn, Nor shrinks the female eye, nor even affects tc* mourn. LXIX. The seventh day this : the jubilee of man. London ! right well thou know'st the day of prayer : Then thy spruce citizen, wash'd artisan, And smug apprentice gulp their weekly air: Thy coach of hackney, whiskey, one-horse chair, And humblest gig, through sundry suburbs whirl ; To Hampstead, Brentford, Harrow, make repair ; Till the tired jade the wheel forgets to hurl, Provoking envious gibe from each pedestrian churl. LXX. Some o'er thy Thamis row the ribbon'd fair, Others along the safer turnpike fly ; Some Richmond Hill ascend, some scud ta Ware, 52 £hMe §wttftTj gitgrimage. And many to the steep of Highgate hie. Ask ye, Boeotian shades, the reason why ? 'Tis to the worship of the solemn Horn, Grasp'd in the holy hand of Mystery, In whose dread name both men and maids are sworn, And consecrate the oath with draught, and dance till morn. LXXI. All have their fooleries ; not alike are thine, Fair Cadiz, rising o'er the dark-blue sea ! Soon as the matin bell proclaimeth nine, Thy saint adorers count the rosary : Much is the Virgin teased to shrive them free (Well do I ween the only virgin there) From crimes as numerous as her beadsmen be; Then to the crowded circus forth they fare : Voung, old, high, low, at once the same diversion share. LXXII. The lists are ope'd, the spacious area clear'd, Thousands on thousands piled are seated round ; Long ere the first loud trumpet's note is heard, Ne vacant space for lated wight is found : Here dons, grandees, but chiefly dames abound, Skill'd in the ogle of a roguish eye, Yet ever well inclined to heal the wound ; None through their cold disdain are doom'd to die, As moon-struck bards complain, by Love's sad archery. LXXIII. Hush'd is the din of tongues — on gallant steeds, With milk-white crest, gold spur, and light- poised lance, Four cavaliers prepare for venturous deeds,. And lowly bending to the lists advance ; Rich are their scarfs, their chargers featly- prance : If in the dangerous game they shine to-day,. The crowd's loud shout, and ladies' lovely- glance, Best prize of better acts, they bear away, Knd all that kings or chiefs e'er gain their toils repay. LXXIV. In costly sheen and gaudy cloak array d. But all afoot, the light-limb'd Matadore Stands in the centre, eager to. invade The lord of lowing herds ; but not before The ground, with cautious tread, is trav» ersed o'er, 54 Child* garold^ gilgrimaof. Lest aught unseen should lurk to thwart his speed, His arms a dart, he fights aloof, nor more Can man achieve without the friendly steed — ■ Alas 1 too oft condemn'd for him to bear and bleed. LXXV. Thrice sounds the clarion ; lo ! the signal falls, The den expands, and Expectation mute Gapes round the silent circle's peopled walls. Bounds with one lashing spring the mighty brute, And wildly staring, spurns, with sounding foot, The sand, nor blindly rushes on his foe : Here, there, he points his threatening front, to suit His first attack, wide waving to and fro His angry tail ; red rolls his eye's dilated glow. LXXVI. Sudden he stops ; his eye is fix'd : away, Away, thou heedless boy ! prepare the spear ; Now is thy time to perish, or display The skill that yet may check his mad career. With well-timed croupe the nimble coursers veer ; (ftfxil&t g*at0W0 gilfltima0e» 55 On foams the bull, but not unscathed he goes ; Streams from his flank the crimson torrent clear : He flies, he wheels, distracted with his throes : Dart follows dart ; lance, lance ; loud bellow- ings speak his woes. LXXVII. Again he comes ; nor dart nor lance avail, Nor the wild plunging of the tortured horse; Though man and man's avenging arms assail, Vain are his weapons, vainer is his force. One gallant steed is stretch'd a mangled corse ; Another, hideous sight ! unseam'd appears, His gory chest unveils life's panting source ; Though death-struck, still his feeble frame he rears ; Staggering, but stemming all, his lord un- harmed he bears. LXXVIII. Foil'd, bleeding, breathless, furious to the last, Full in the centre stands the bull at bay, 'Mid wounds, and clinging darts, and lances brast, And foes disabled in the brutal fray : 56 Childe garoto'js pilgrimage. And now the Matadores around him play, Shake the red cloak, and poise the ready brand : Once more through all he bursts his thunder ing way — Vain rage ! the mantle quits the conynge hand, Wraps his fierce eye — 'tis past — he sinks upon the sand. LXXIX. Where his vast neck just mingles with the spine, Sheathed in his form the deadly weapon lies. He stops — he starts — disdaining to decline : Slowly he falls, amidst triumphant cries, Without a groan, without a struggle dies. The decorated car appears : on high The corse is piled — sweet sight for vulgar eyes : Four steeds that spurn the rein, as swift as shy, Hurl the dark bull along, scarce seen in dash- ing by. LXXX. Such the ungentle sport that oft invites The Spanish maid, and cheers the Spanish swain : Nurtured in blood betimes, his heart de- lights In vengeance, gloating on another's pain. What private feuds the troubled village stain ! Though now one phalanx'd host should meet the foe, Enough, alas, in humble homes remain, To meditate 'gainst friends the secret blow, For some slight cause of wrath, whence life's warm stream must flow. LXXXI. But Jealousy has fled : his bars, his bolts, His withered sentinel, Duenna sage ! And all whereat the generous soul revolts, Which the stern dotard deem'd he could encage, Have pass'd to darkness with the vanish'd age. Who late so free as Spanish girls were seen (Ere War uprose in his volcanic rage), With braided tresses bounding o'er the green, While on the gay dance shone Night's lover- loving Queen. LXXXII. Oh ! many a time and oft had Harold loved, Or dream'd he loved, since rapture is a dream ; 58 $Mde garotte gilflnmage. But now his wayward bosom was unmoved, For not yet had he drunk of Lethe's stream : And lately had he learn'd with truth to deem Love has no gift so grateful as his wings : How fair, how young, how soft soe'er he- seem, Full from the fount of Joy's delicious springs Some bitter o'er the flowers its bubbling venom flings. LXXXIII. Yet to the beauteous form he was not blind, Though now it moved him as it moves the wise ; Not that Philosophy on such a mind E'er deign 'd to bend her chastely-awful eyes ; But Passion raves itself to rest, or flies ; And Vice, that digs her own voluptuous tomb, Had buried long his hopes, no more to rise : Pleasure's pall'd victim ! life-abhorring gloom Wrote on his faded brow curst Cain's unrest- ing doom. LXXXIV. Still he beheld, nor mingled with the throng; But view'd them not with misanthropic hate ; Fain would he now have join'd the dance, the song ; But who may smile that sinks beneath his fate? Naught that he saw his sadness could abate : Yet once he struggled 'gainst the demon's sway, And as in Beauty's bower he pensive sate, Pour'd forth this unpremeditated lay, To charms as fair as those that soothed his happier day. TO INEZ. Nay, smile not at my sullen brow ; Alas ! I cannot smile again : Yet Heaven avert that ever thou Shouldst weep, and haply weep in vain. And dost thou ask what secret woe I bear, corroding joy and youth ? And wilt thou vainly seek to know A pang even thou must fail to soothe ? It is not love, it is not hate, Nor low Ambition's honours lost, That bids me loathe my present state, And fly from all I prized the most : It is that weariness which springs From all I meet, or hear, or see : To me no pleasure Beauty brings ; Thine eyes have scarce a charm for me. 60 £hiUlc gmMfr pilgrimage* It is that settled, ceaseless gloom The fabled Hebrew wanderer bore, That will not look beyond the tomb, But cannot hope for rest before. What Exile from himself can flee ? To zones, though more and more remote, Still, still pursues, where'er I be, The blight of life — the demon Thought. Yet others rapt in pleasure seem, And taste of all that I forsake: Oh ! in. iv they still of transport dream, And ne'er, at least like me, awake 1 Through many a clime 'tis mine to go, With many a retrospection curst; And all my solace is to know, Whate'er betides, I've known the worst. What is that worst? Nay, do not ask — In pity from the search forbear: Smile on — nor venture to unmask Man's heart, and view the Hell that's there, LXXXV. Adieu, fair Cadiz ! yea, a long adieu ! Who may forget how well thy walls have stood ? When all were changing, thou alone wert true, First to be free, and last to be subdued. And if amidst a scene, a shock so rude, Some native blood was seen thy streets to dye, A traitor only fell beneath the feud : * Here all were noble, save nobility ; None hugg'd a conqueror's chain save fallen Chivalry I LXXXVI. Such be the sons of Spain, and strange her fate! They fight for freedom, who were never free ; A kingless people for a nerveless state, Her vassals combat when their chieftains flee, True to the veriest slaves of Treachery ; Fond of a land which gave them naught but life, Pride points the path that leads to liberty; Back to the struggle, baffled in the strife, War, war is still the cry, " War even to the knife l"t LXXXVII. Ye, who would more of Spain and Spaniards know, * Alluding to the conduct and death of Solano, the governor of Cadiz, in May, 1S09. t Palafox's answer to the French general at the siege of Saragoza. 62 GIMfo fjtowMfti -gitflrimafl*. Go, read whate'er is writ of bloodiest strife : Whate'er keen Vengeance urged on foreign foe Can act, is acting there against man's life : From flashing scimitar to secret knife, War mouldeth there each weapon to his need — So may he guard the sister and the wife, So may he make each curst oppressor bleed, So may such foes deserve the most remorse* less deed ! LXXXVIII. Flows there a tear of pity for the dead ? Look o'er the ravage of the reeking plain : Look on the hands with female slaughter red ; Then to the dogs resign the unburied slain, Then to the vulture let each corse remain ; Albeit unworthy of the prey-bird's maw, Let their bleach'd bones, and blood's un- bleaching stain, Long mark the battle-field with hideous awe : Thus only may our sons conceive the scenes we saw ! LXXXIX. Nor yet, alas, the dreadful work is done ; Fresh legions pour adown the Pyrenees : It deepens still, the work is scarce begun, Nor mortal eye the distant end foresees. Fallen nations gaze on Spain : if freed, she frees $kild* garoid'tf g itfltiwag** 63 More than her fell Pizarros once enchain'd. Strange retribution ! now Columbia's ease Repairs the wrongs that Quito's son sus- tain'd, While o'er the parent clime prowls Murder unrestrain'd. xc. Not all the blood at Talavera shed, Not all the marvels of Barossa's fight, Not Albuera lavish of the dead, Have won for Spain her well-asserted right. When shall her Olive-Branch be free from blight ? When shall she breathe her from the blush- ing toil ? How many a doubtful day shall sink in night, Ere the Frank robber turn him from his spoil, And Freedom's stranger-tree grow native of the soil ? xci. And thou, my friend ! since unavailing woe Bursts from my heart, and mingles with the strain — Had the sword laid thee with the mighty low, Pride might forbid e'en Friendship to com- plain : 64 ChUde garotd'jei gUflrimaoe. But thus unlaurel'd to descend in vain, By all forgotten, save the lonely breast, And mix unbleeding with the boasted slain, While glory crowns so many a meaner crest 1 What hadst thou done, to sink so peacefully to rest ? xcn. Oh, known the earliest, and esteem'd the most 1 Dear to a heart where nought was left so dear ! Though to my hopeless days forever lost, In dreams deny me not to see thee here I And Morn in secret shall renew the tear Of Consciousness awaking to her woes, And Fancy hover o'er thy bloodless bier, Till my frail frame return to whence it rose, And mourned and mourner lie united in re- pose. xcnr. Here is one fytte of Harold's pilgrimage. Ye who of him may further seek to know, Shall find some tidings in a future page, If he that rhymeth now may scribble moe. Is this too much ? Stern Critic, say not so : Patience ! and ye shall hear what he beheld In other lands, where he was doom'd to go: Lands that contain the monuments of Eld, Ere Greece and Grecian arts by barbarous hands were quell'd. CANTO THE SECOND. Come, blue-eyed maid of heaven ! — but thou, alas, Didst never yet one mortal song inspire — Goddess of Wisdom ! here thy temple was, And is, despite of war and wasting fire, * And years, that bade thy worship to expire : But worse than steel, and flame, and ages slow, Is the drear sceptre and dominion dire Of men who never felt the sacred glow That thoughts of thee and thine on polish'd breasts bestow. ir. Ancient of days ! august Athena ! where, Where are thy men of might, thy grand in soul ? Gone — glimmering through the dream of things that were : First in the race that led to Glory's goal, * Part of the Acropolis was destroyed by the explosion of a magazine during the Venetian siege. 5 6 5 66 ChiUU pnrfUTl gitarimage. They won, and passed away — is this the whole ? A schoolboy's tale, the wonder of an hour ! The warrior's weapon and the sophist's stole Are sought in vain, and o'er each mouldering tower, Dim with the mist of years, grey flits the shade of power. in. Son of the morning, rise ! approach you here ! Come — but molest not yon defenceless urn I Look on this spot — a nation's sepulchre ! Abode of gods, whose shrines no longer burn. Even gods must yield — religions take their turn : 'Twas Jove's — 'tis Mahomet's ; and other creeds Will rise with other years, till man shall learn Vainly his incense soars, his victim bleeds ; Poor child of Doubt and Death, whose hope is built on reeds. IV. Bound to the earth, he lifts his eyes to heaven — Is't not enough, unhappy thing, to know Thou art? Is this a boon so kindly given, That being, thou wouldst be again, and go, Thou know'st not, reck'st not to what region, so On earth no more, but mingled with the skies ! Still wilt thou dream on future joy and woe ? Regard and weigh yon dust before it flies : That little urn saith more than thousand hom- ilies. Or burst the vanish'd Hero's lofty mound ; Far on the solitary shore he sleeps ; * He fell, and falling nations mourn'd around; But now not one of saddening thousands weeps, Nor warlike worshipper his vigil keeps Where demi-gods appear'd, as records tell. Remove yon skull from out the scatter'd heaps : Is that a temple where a God may dwell ? Why, even the worm at last disdains her shat- ter'd cell I * It was not always the custom of the Greeks to burn their dead ; the greater Ajax, in particular, was interred entire. Almost all the chiefs became gods after their decease; and he was indeed neglected who had not annual games near his tomb, or festivals in honour of his memory by his countrymen, as Achilles, Brasidas, etc., and at last even Antinous, whose death was as heroic as his life was infamous. 68 $hitde garolW gitgnmag*. VI. Look on its broken arch, its ruin'd wall, Its chambers desolate, and portals foul: Yes, this was once Ambition's airy hall, The dome of Thought, the palace of the Soul. Behold through each lack-lustre, eyeless hole, The gay recess of Wisdom and of Wit, And Passion's host, that never brook'd control : Can all saint, sage, or sophist ever writ, People this lonely tower, this tenement refit? VII. Well didst thou speak, Athena's wisest son ! " All that we know is, nothing can be known." Why should we shrink from what we can- not shun ? Each hath its pang, but feeble sufferers groan With brain-born dreams of evil all their own. Pursue what Chance or Fact proclaimeth best ; Peace waits us on the shores of Acheron : There no forced banquet claims the sated guest, But Silence spreads the couch of ever welcome rest. VIII. Yet if, as holiest men have deem'd, there be A land of souls beyond that sable shore, To shame the doctrine of the Sadducee And sophists, madly vain of dubious lore ; How sweet it were in concert to adore With those who made our mortal labours light ! To hear each voice we fear'd to hear no more ! Behold each mighty shade reveal'd to sight, The Bactrian, Samian sage, and all who taught the right ! IX. There, thou ! — whose love and life together fled, Have left me here to love and live in vain- Twined with my heart, and can I deem thee dead, When busy memory flashes on my brain ? Well — I will dream that we may meet again, And woo the vision to my vacant breast : If aught of young Remembrance then re- main, Be as it may Futurity's behest, For me 'twere bliss enough to know thy spirit blest! x. Here let me sit upon this massy stone, The marble column's yet unshaken base ! 70 (Clnlfo garotd'ss gitgrimagc. Here, son of Saturn, was thy favourite throne ! * Mightiest of many such ! Hence let me trace The latent grandeur of thy dwelling-place. It may not be ; nor even can Fancy's eye Restore what time hath labour'd to deface. Yet these proud pillars claim no passing sigh; Unmoved the Moslem sits, the light Greek carols by. XI. But who, of all the plunderers of yon fane On high, where Pallas linger'd, loth to flee, The latest relic of her ancient reign — The last, the worst, dull spoiler, who was he? Blush, Caledonia ! such thy son could be ! England ! I joy no child he was of thine : Thy free-born men should spare what once was free ; Yet they could violate each saddening shrine, And bear these altars o'er the long reluctant brine. ♦The temple of Jupiter Olympius, of which sixteen columns, entirely of marble, yet survive: originally there were one hundred and fifty. These columns, how- ever, are by many supposed to have belonged to th« Pantheon. (MA* ga*ot-- ... Strains his shrill pipe, as good or ill betides, And well the docile crew that skilful urchin guides. XIX. White is the glassy deck, without a stain, Where on the watch the staid Lieutenant walks : Look on that part which sacred doth re- main For the lone Chieftain, who majestic stalks, Silent and fear'd by all : not oft he talks With aught beneath him, if he would pre- serve * To prevent blocks or splinters from falling on deck during action. That strict restraint, which broken, ever baulks . . Conquest and Fame : but Britons rarely SWerVe , • i J *!. •- From law, however stern, which tends their strength to nerve. xx. Blow, swiftly blow, thou keel-compelling Till the broad sun withdraws his lessening Then must the pennant-bearer slacken sail, That lagging barks may make their lazy way. i n j i Ah i grievance sore, and listless dull delay, To waste on sluggish hulks the sweetest breeze ! What leagues are lost before the dawn of day, Thus loitering pensive on the willing seas, The napping sail haul'd down to halt tor logs like these 1 XXI. The moon is up ; by Heaven, a lovely eve \ Long streams of light o'er dancing waves expand ; . . , Now lads on shore may sigh, and maids believe : Such be our fate when we return to landi 76 ©hild* gfaroM^ gilgrimage. Meantime some rude Arion's restless hand Wakes the brisk harmony that sailors love : A circle there of merry listeners stand, Or to some well-known measure featly move, Thoughtless, as if on shore they still were free to rove. XXII. Through Calpe's straits survey the steepy shore ; Europe and Afric, on each other gaze ! Lands of the dark-eyed Maid and dusky Moor, Alike beheld beneath pale Hecate's blaze : How softly on the Spanish shore she plays Disclosing rock, and slope, and forest brown Distinct, though darkening with her waning phase ; But Mauritania's giant-shadows frown, From mountain-cliff to coast descending som- bre down. Xxiii. 'Tis night, when Meditation bids us feel We once have loved, though love is at an end : The heart, lone mourner of its baffled zeal, Though friendless now, will dream it had a friend. Who with the weight of years would wish to bend, When Youth itself survives young Love and Joy? Alas ! when mingling souls forget to blend, Death hath but little left him to destroy J Ah, happy years ! once more who would not be a boy ? XXIV. Thus bending o'er the vessel's laving side, To gaze on Dian's wave-reflected sphere, The soul forgets her schemes of Hope and Pride, And flies unconscious o'er each backward year. None are so desolate but something dear, Dearer than self, possesses or possess'd A thought, and claims the homage of a tear ; A flashing pang ! of which the weary breast Would still, albeit in vain, the heavy heart divest. XXV. To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, _ Where things that own not man's dominion dwell, And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been ; To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, With the wild flock that never needs a fold; Alone o'er steeps and foaming falls to lean: 78 (tthll&t garatd'0 gitorimagc. This is not solitude ; 'tis but to hold Converse with Nature's charms, and view her stores unroll'd. xxvi. But 'midst the crowd, the hum, the shock of men, "To hear, to see, to feel, and to possess, And roam along, the world's tired denizen, With none who bless us, none whom we can bless ; Minions of splendour shrinking from dis- tress ! None that, with kindred consciousness en* dued, If we were not, would seem to smile the less Of all that flatter'd, follow'd, sought, and sued : This is to be alone ; this, this is solitude 1 XXVII. More blest the life of godly Eremite, Such as on lonely Athos may be seen, Watching at eve upon the giant height, Which looks o'er waves so blue, skies so serene, That he who there at such an hour hath been, Will wistful linger on that hallowed spot ; Then slowly tear him from the witching scene, (&h%U$ Dtatold^ pilgrimage. 79 Sigh forth one wish that such had bten his lot, Then turn to hate a world he had almost -forgot. XXVIII. Pass we the long, unvarying course, the track Oft trod, that never leaves a trace behind ; Pass we the calm, the gale, the change, the tack, And each well-known caprice of wave and wind; Pass we the joys and sorrows sailors find, Cooped in their winged sea-girt citadel ; The foul, the fair, the contrary, the kind, As breezes rise and fall, and billows swell, Till on some jocund morn — lo, land ! and all is well. XXIX. But not in silence pass Calypso's isles, * The sister tenants of the middle deep ; There for the weary still a haven smiles, Though the fair goddess long hath ceased to weep, And o'er her cliffs a fruitless watch to keep For him who dared prefer a mortal bride : Here, too, his boy essay'd the dreadful leap • Goza is said to have been the island of Claypso. 80 ChMe garotte gilgnmage. Stern Meritor urged from high to yonder tide ; While thus of both bereft, the nymph-queen doubly sigh'd. XXX. Her reign is past, her gentle glories gone : But trust not this : too easy youth, beware ! A mortal sovereign holds her dangerous throne, And thou may'st find a new Calypso there. Sweet Florence ! could another ever share This wayward, loveless heart, it would be thine : But check'd by every tie, I may not dare To cast a worthless offering at thy shrine, Nor ask so dear a breast to feel one pang for mine. XXXI. Thus Harold deem'd, as on that lady's eye He look'd, and met its beam without a thought, Save Admiration glancing harmless by : Love kept aloof, albeit not far remote, Who knew his votary often lost and caught, But knew him as his worshipper no more, And ne'er again the boy his bosom sought: Since now he vainly urged him to adore, Well deem'd the little god his ancient sway was o'er. XXXII. Fair Florence found, in sooth with some amaze, One who, 'twas said, still sigh'd to all he saw, Withstand, unmoved, the lustre of her gaze, Which others hail'd with real or mimic awe, Their hope, their doom, their punishment, their law : All that gay Beauty from her bondsmen claims : And much she marvell'd that a youth so raw Nor felt, nor feign'd at least, the oft-told flames, Which, though sometimes they frown, yet rarely anger dames. XXXIII. Little knew she that seeming marble heart, Now mask'd by silence or withheld by pride, Was not unskilful in the spoiler's art, And spread its snares licentious far and wide; Nor from the base pursuit had turn'd aside, As long as aught was worthy to pursue : But Harold on such arts no more relied ; And had he doted on those eyes so blue, Vet never would he join the lover's whining crew. 6 $2 €h\\&t garotte gUgrimage. XXXIV. Not much he kens, I ween, of woman'* breast, Who thinks that wanton thing is won by sighs : What careth she for hearts when once pos- sessed ? Do proper homage to thine idol's eyes, But not too humbly, or she will despise Thee and thy suit, though told in moving, tropes ; Disguise even tenderness, if thou art wise ; Brisk Confidence still best with woman copes ; Pique her and soothe in turn, soon Passion crowns thy hopes. XXXV. Tis an old lesson : Time approves it true, And those who know it best deplore it most; When all is won that all desire to woo, The paltry prize is hardly worth the cost : Youth wasted, minds degraded, honour lost, These are thy fruits, successful Passion ! these ! If, kindly cruel, early hope is crost, Still to the last it rankles, a disease, Not to be cured when Love itself forgets to please. mand t Is lawless law ; for with a bloody hand He sways a nation, turbulent and bold : Yet here and there some daring mountain- band Disdain his power, and from their rocky hold Hurl their defiance far, nor yield, unless to gold. $ XLVIII. Monastic Zitza ! from thy shady brow, § Thou small, but favour'd spot of holy ground ! * According to Pouqueville, the lake of Yanina : but Pouqueville is always out. t The celebrated Ali Pacha. Of this extraordinary man there is an incorrect account in Pouqueville's Travels. X Five thousand Suliotes, among the rocks and irj the castle of Suli, withstood thirty thousand Albanians for eighteen years : the castle at last was taken by bribery. In this contest there were several acts per- formed not unworthy of the better days of Greece. § The convent and village of Zitza are four hours' journey from Joannina, or Yanina, the capital of the pachalic. In the valley the river Kalamas (once th« 90 $httde Ifaroto'isi gitgrimage. Where'er we gaze, around, above, below, What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found 1 Rock, river, forest, mountain all abound, And bluest skies that harmonize the whole : Beneath, the distant torrent's rushing sound Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please the soul. XLIX. Amidst the grove that crowns yon tufted hill, Which, were it not for many a mountain nigh Rising in lofty ranks, and loftier still, Might well itself be deem'd of dignity, The convent's white walls glisten fair on high ; Here dwells the caloyer,* nor rude is he, Nor niggard of his cheer : the passer-by Is welcome still ; nor heedless will he flee From hence, if he delight kind Nature's sheen to see. Acheron) flows, and not far from Zitza forms a fine cataract. The situation is perhaps the finest in Greece, though the approach to Delvinachi and parts of Acar- irania and /Etolia may contest the palm. Delphi, Parnassus, and, in Attica, even Cape Colonna and Port Raphti, are very inferior; as also every scene in Ionia, or the Troad : I am almost inclined to add, the approach to Constantinople ; but, from the different features of the last, a comparison can hardly be made. * The Greek monks are so called. L. Here in the sultriest season let him rest, Fresh is the green beneath those aged trees ; Here winds of gentlest wing will fan his breast, From heaven itself he may inhale the breeze : The plain is far beneath — ohl let him seize Pure pleasure while he can ; the scorching ray- Here pierceth not, impregnate with disease : Then let his length the loitering pilgrim lay, And gaze, untired, the morn, the moon, the eve away. LI. Dusky and huge, enlarging on the sight, Nature's volcanic amphitheatre,* Chimera's alps extend from left to right : Beneath, a living valley seems to stir ; Flocks play, trees wave, streams flow, the mountain fir Nodding above ; behold black Acheron ! f Once consecrated to the sepulchre. * The Chimariot mountains appear to have bee* volcanic. t Now called Kalamas. 92 Chitdc 2Urotd'$ ^itgrimage. Pluto ! if this be hell I look upon, Close shamed Elysium's gates, my shade shall seek for none. LII. Ne city's towers pollute the lovely view ; Unseen is Yanina, though not remote, Veil'd by the screen of hills : here men are few, Scanty the hamlet, rare the lonely cot ; But, peering down each precipice, the goat Browseth : and, pensive o'er his scattered flock, The little shepherd in his white capote* Doth lean his boyish form along the rock, Or in his cave awaits the tempest's short-lived shock. nil. Oh ! where, Dodona, is thine aged grove, Prophetic fount, and oracle divine ? What valley echoed the response of Jove ? What trace remaineth of the Thunderer's shrine ? All, all forgotten — and shall man repine That his frail bonds to fleeting life are broke ? Cease, fool 1 the fate of gods may well be thine : * Albanese cloak. ©tnlfa garaW'jJ gilgrimage. 93 Wouldst thou survive the marble or the oak, When nations, tongues, and worlds must sink beneath the stroke ? LIV. Epirus' bounds recede, and mountains fail ; Tired of upgazing still, the wearied eye Reposes gladly on as smooth a vale As ever Spring yclad in grassy dye : Even on a plain no humble beauties lie, Where some bold river breaks the long ex- panse, And woods along the banks are waving high, Whose shadows in the glassy waters dance, Or with the moonbeam sleep in midnight's solemn trance. LV. The sun had sunk behind vast Tomerit,* The Laos wide and fierce came roaring by • * Anciently Mount Tomarus. t The river Laos was full at the time the authof passed it ; and, immediately above Tepaleen, was to the eye as wide as the Thames at Westminster — at least in the opinion of the author and his fellow- traveller. In the summer it must be much narrower. It certainly is the finest river in the Levant : neither Achelous, Alpheus, Ache. »n, Scamander, nor Cayster, approached it in breadth o v beauty. 94 €Mdc garaWiSi gilgrimage. The shades of wonted night were gathering yet, When, down the steep banks winding wearily Childe Harold saw, like meteors in the sky, The glittering minarets of Tepalen, Whose walls o'erlook the stream ; and drawing nigh, He heard the busy hum of warrior-men Swelling the breeze that sighed along the lengthening glen. LVI. He pass'd the sacred Haram's silent tower, And underneath the wide o'erarching gate Survey'd the dwelling of this chief of power, Where all around proclaim'd his high estate. Amidst no common pomp the despot sate, While busy preparation shook the court ; Slaves, eunuchs, soldiers, guests, and san- tons wait ; Within, a palace, and without a fort, Here men of every clime appear to make resort. LVII. Richly caparison'd, a ready row Of armed horse, and many a war-like store, Circled the wide-extending court below ; Above, strange groups adorned the corri- dore; 0fcil4t SatoW'jsi gttgrlttui^ 95 And ofttimes through the area's echoing Some°rngh-capp'd Tartar spurr'd his steed The Turk,' the Greek, the Albanian, and the Moor, Here mingled in their many-hued array, While the deep war-drum's sound announced the close of day. LVIII. The wild Albanian kirtled to his knee. With shawl-girt head and ornamented gun, And gold-embroider' d garments, fair to see : The crimson-scarfed men of Macedon ; The Delhi with his cap of terror on, And crooked glaive; the lively, supple Greek ; And swarthy Nubia's mutilated son ; The bearded Turk, that rarely deigns to Maste/rfall around, too potent to be meek. LIX. Are mix'd conspicuous; some recline in groups, Scanning the motley scene that varies round ; There some grave Moslem to devotion stoops, . And some that smoke, and some that play are found ; 96 $hMe %f&xM*# f ttgtfmage. Here the Albanian proudly treads the ground ; Half-whispering there the Greek is heard to prate ; Hark ! from the mosque the nightly solemn sound, The Muezzin's call doth shake the minaret, •* There is no god but God ! — to prayer — lo I God is great ! " LX. Just at this season Ramazani's fast Through the long day its penance did maintain. But when the lingering twilight hour was past, Revel and feast assumed the rule again : Now all was bustle, and the menial train Prepared and spread the plenteous board within ; The vacant gallery now seem'd made in vain, But from the chambers came the mingling din, As page and slave anon were passing out and in. LXI. Here woman's voice is never heard : apart And scarce permitted, guarded, veil'd, to move, $htftfe gratd^ f ii0fto0*. 97 She yields to one her person and her heart, Tamed to her cage, nor feels a wish to rove ; For, not unhappy in her master's love, And joyful in a mother's gentlest cares, Blest cares ! all other feelings far above ! Herself more sweetly rears the babe she- bears, Who never quits the breast, no meaner passion shares. LXII. In marble-paved pavilion, where a spring Of living water from the centre rose, Whose bubbling did a genial freshness fling, And soft voluptuous couches breathed re* pose, AH reclined, a man of war and woes : Yet in his lineaments ye cannot trace, While Gentleness her milder radiance throws Along that aged venerable face, The deeds that lurk beneath, and stain him with disgrace. LXIII. It is not that yon hoary lengthening beard 111 suits the passions which belong to youth : Love conquers age — so Hafiz hath averr'd, So sings the Teian, and he sings in sooth — But crimes that scorn the tender voice of ruth, 7 98 (Mid* %imoW$ giljrimaflpe. Beseeming all men ill, but most the man In years, have mark'd him with a tiger's tooth : Blood follows blood, and through their mortal span, In bloodier acts conclude those who with blood began. LXIV. 'Mid many things most new to ear and eye,. The pilgrim rested here his weary feet, And gazed around on Moslem luxury, Till quickly wearied with that spacious seat Of Wealth and Wantonness, the choice retreat Of sated Grandeur from the city's noise : And were it humbler, it in sooth were sweet ; But Peace abhorreth artificial joys, And Pleasure, leagued with Pomp, the zest of both destroys. LXV. Fierce are Albania's children, yet they lack Not virtues, were those virtues more ma- ture. Where is the foe that ever saw their back > Who can so well the toil of war endure ? Their native fastnesses not more secure Than they in doubtful time of troublous need: Their wrath how deadly ! but their friend- ship sure, When Gratitude or Valour bids them bleed, Unshaken rushing on where'er their chief may lead. LXVI. Childe Harold saw them in their chieftain's tower, Thronging to war in splendour and suc- cess; And after view'd them, when, within their power, Himself awhile the victim of distress ; That saddening hour when bad men hotlier press : But these did shelter him beneath their roof, When less barbarians would have cheer'd him less, And fellow-countrymen have stood aloof * — » In aught that tries the heart how few with- stand the proof ! LXVII. It chanced that adverse winds once drove his bark Full on the coast of Suli's shaggy shore, * Alluding to the wreckers of Cornwall. ioo #hMe garottTjsi gitorimage. When all around was desolate and dark ; To land was perilous, to sojourn more ; Yet for awhile the mariners forbore, Dubious to trust where treachery might lurk: At length they ventured forth, though doubt- ing sore That those who loathe alike the Frank and Turk Might once again renew their ancient butcher- work. LXVIII. Vain fear ! the Suliotes stretch'd the wel- come hand, Led them o'er rocks and past the dangerous swamp, Kinder than polish'd slaves, though not so bland, And piled the hearth, and wrung their gar- ments damp, And fill'd the bowl, and trimm'd the cheer- ful lamp, And spread their fare : though homely, all they had : Such conduct bears Philanthropy's rare stamp — To rest the weary and to soothe the sad, Doth lesson happier men, and shames at least the bad. ttfcitft SawM'* g«0«im»0e. ">i LXIX. It came to pass, that when he did address Himself to quit at length this mountain land, , , - Combined marauders half-way barr d egress. And wasted far and near with glaive and brand ; , And therefore did he take a trusty band To traverse Acarnania's forest wide, ^ Inwarwellseason'd,andwith labours tann d, Till he did greet white Achelous' tide, And from his farther bank Doha's wolds espied. LXX. Where loneUtraikey forms its circling cove, And weary waves retire to gleam at rest, How brown the foliage of the green hill s grove, . i » Nodding at midnight o'er the calm bay s breast, , As winds come whispering lightly from the west, Kissing, not ruffling, the blue deep s serene ; Here Harold was received a welcome guest; Nor did he pass unmoved the gentle scene, For many a joy could he from night s soft presence glean. LXXI. On the smooth shore the night-fires brightly blazed, io2 (ftlulde 3*av0ltT£ pilgrimage. The feast was done, the red wine circling fast,* And he that unawares had there ygazed With gaping wonderment had stared aghast ; For ere night's midmost, stillest hour was past, The native revels of the troop began; Each Palikarf his sabre from him cast, And bounding hand in hand, man link'd to man, Yelling their uncouth dirge, long danced the kirtled clan. LXXII. Childe Harold at a little distance stood, And view'd, but not displeased, the revel- rie, Nor hated harmless mirth, however rude : In sooth, it was no vulgar sight to see Their barbarous, yet their not indecent, glee: And as the flames along their faces gleam'd, Their gestures nimble, dark eyes flashing free, The long wild locks that to their girdles stream'd, * The Albanian Mussulmans do not abstain from teine, and indeed very few of the others. t Palikar, a general name for a soldier amongst the Greeks and Albanese who speak Romaic : it means, properly, " a lad." (!Mde StewM'* gitgrimage, 103; While thus in concert they this lay half sang y half scream'd : Tambourgi ! Tambourgi ! * thy larum afar Gives hope to the valiant, and promise of war ;, All the sons of the mountains arise at the note, Chimariot, Illyrian, and dark Suliote ! f Oh ! who is more brave than a dark Suliote, In his snowy camese and his shaggy capote ? To the wolf and the vulture he leaves his wild flock, And descends to the plain like the stream from the rock. Shall the sons of Chimari, who never forgive The fault of a friend, bid an enemy live ? Let those guns so unerring such vengeance- forego ? What mark is so fair as the breast of a foe ? Macedonia sends forth her invincible race ; For a time they abandon the cave and the chase : But those scarfs of blood-red shall be redder,. before The sabre is sheathed and the battle is o'er. * Drummer. f These stanzas are partly taken from different Albanese songs, as far as I was able to make them out by the exposition of the Albanese in Romaic and! Italian. io4 (tfhitfa $XttU'| gitgrirnHgr. Then the pirates of Parga that dwell by the waves, And teach the pale Franks what it is to be slaves, Shall leave on the beach the long galley and oar, And track to his covert the captive on shore. I ask not the pleasure that riches supply, My sabre shall win what the feeble must buy; Shall win the young bride with her long flow- ing hair, And many a maid from her mother shall tear. I love the fair face of the maid in her youth ; Her caresses shall lull me, her music shall soothe : Let her bring from her chamber the many-torvul lyre, And sing us a song on the fall of her sire. Remember the moment when Previsa fell,* The shrieks of the conquer'd, the conquerors' yell : The roofs that we fired, and the plunder we shared, The wealthy we slaughter'd, the lovely we spared. I talk not of mercy, I talk not of fear ; He neither must know who would serY<» the Vizier : * It was taken by storm from the Frenck mite gawW* gitgrimag*, 105 Since the days of our prophet the crescent ne'er saw A chief ever glorious like AH Pashaw. Dark Muchtar his son to the Danube is sped„ Let the yellow-haired * Giaours view his horse- tail with dread ; When his Delhis f come dashing in blood o'er the banks, How few shall escape from the Muscovite ranks ! Selictar ! t unsheath then our chief's scimitar ; Tambourgi ! thy larum gives promise of war. Ye mountains that see us descend to the shore, Shall view us as victors, or view us no more ! LXXIII. Fair Greece ! sad relic of departed worth ! Immortal, though no more ; though fallen, great ! Who now shall lead thy scatter'd children forth, And long accustom 'd bondage uncreate ? Not such thy sons who whilomc did await, The hopeless warriors of a willing doom, In bleak Thermopylae's sepulchral strait — ♦Yellow is the epithet given to the Russians. Giaour : Infidel. Horsetail : the insignia of a Pacha, t Horsemen, answering to our forlorn hope. X " Selictar,' ' swordbearer. io6 Chitdc SUrotiTiss pilgrimage. Oh, who that gallant spirit shall resume, Leap from Eurotas' banks, and call thee froi* the tomb ? LXXIV. Spirit of Freedom ! when on Phyle's brow * Thou sat'st with Thrasybulus and his train, Couldst thou forebode the dismal hour which now Dims the green beauties of thine Attic plain ? Not thirty tyrants now enforce the chain, But every carle can lord it o'er thy land ; Nor rise thy sons, but idly rail in vain, Trembling beneath the scourge of Turkish hand, From birth till death enslaved ; in word, in deed, unmann'd. LXXV. In all save form alone, how changed ! and who That marks the fire still sparkling in each eye, Who would but deem their bosom burn'd anew With thy unquenched beam, lost Liberty ! And many dream withal the hour is nigh * Phyle, which commands a beautiful view of Athens, has still considerable remains. It was seized by Thrasybulus previous to the expulsion of the Thirty. em&t ga*oM'si giljrimafle. 107 That gives them back their fathers' heritage : For foreign arms and aid they fondly sigh, Nor solely dare encounter hostile rage, Or tear their name defiled from Slavery's mournful page. LXXVI. Hereditary bondsmen ! know ye not Who would be free themselves must strike the blow ? By their right arms the conquest must be wrought ! Will Gaul or Muscovite redress ye ? No ! True, they may lay your proud despoilers low, But not for you will Freedom's altars name. Shades of the Helots! triumph o'er your foe : . Greece ! change thy lords, thy state is still the same ; Thy glorious day is o'er, but not thy years of shame. LXXVI 1. The city won for Allah from the Giaour, The Giaour from Othman's race again may- wrest ; And the Serai's impenetrable tower Receive the fiery Frank, her former guest ; * When taken by the Latins, and retained for several years. io8 Whittle lUroliViss ^Unnmage. Or Wahab's rebel brood, who dared divest The prophet's tomb of all its pious spoil,* May wind their path of blood along the West ; But ne'er will freedom seek this fated soil, But slave succeed to slave through years of endless toil. LXXVIII. Yet mark their mirth — ere lenten days begin, That penance which their holy rites prepare To shrive from man his weight of mortal sin, By daily abstinence and nightly prayer; But ere his sackcloth garb Repentance wear, Some days of joyaunce are decreed to all, To take of pleasaunce each his secret share, In motley robe to dance at masking ball, And join the mimic train of merry Carnival. I. XXIX. And whose more rife with merriment than thine, O Stamboul ! once the empress of their reign ? Though turbans now pollute Sophia's shrine, And Greece her very altars eyes in vain : * Mecca and Medina were taken some time ago bj the Wahabees, a sect yearly increasing. #hitfo gawM* gitgrimage. 109 (Alas ! her woes will still pervade my strain !) Gay were her minstrels once, for free her throng, All felt the common joy they now must feign ; Nor oft I've seen such sight, nor heard such song, As woo'd the eye, and thrill'd the Bosphorus along. LXXX. Loud was the lightsome tumult on the shore ; Oft Music changed, but never ceased her tone, And timely echo'd back the measured oar, And rippling waters made a pleasant moan : The Queen of tides on high consenting shone ; And when a transient breeze swept o'er the wave, 'Twas as if, darting from her heavenly throne, A brighter glance her form reflected gave, Till sparkling billows seem'd to light the banks they lave. LXXXI. Glanced many a light caique along the foam, Danced on the shore the daughters of the land, No thought had man or maid of rest or home, no $hUdc IftnvaUVjS gtlgrimage. While many a languid eye and thrilling hand Exchanged the look few bosoms may with- stand, Or gently prest, return'd the pressure still: Oh Love ! young Love ! bound in thy rosy band, Let sage or cynic prattle as he will, These hours, and only these, redeem'd Life's years of ill ! LXXXII. But, 'midst the throng in merry masquerade, Lurk there no hearts that throb with secret pain, Even through the closest searment half-be- tray'd ? To such the gentle murmurs of the main Seem to re-echo all they mourn in vain ; To such the gladness of the gamesome crowd Is source of wayward thought and stern disdain : How do they loathe the laughter idly loud, A.nd long to change the robe of revel for the shroud ! LXXXIII. This must he feel, the true-born son of Greece, If Greece one true-born patriot can still boast : OlfciMe StoroM'* fitgrimage. iii Not such as prate of war, but skulk in peace, The bondsman's peace, who sighs for all he lost, Yet with smooth smile his tyrant can accost, And wield the slavish sickle, not the sword : Ah, Greece ! they love thee least who owe thee most — Their birth, their blood, and that sublime record Of hero sires, who shame thy now degenerate horde ! LXXXIV. When riseth Lacedaemon's hardihood, When Thebes Epaminondas rears again, When Athens' children are with hearts endued, When Grecian mothers shall give birth to men, Then may'st thou be restored ; but not till then. A thousand years scarce serve to form a state ; An hour may lay it in the dust : and when Can man its shatter'd splendour renovate, Recall its virtues back, and vanquish Time and Fate ? LXXXV. And yet how lovely in thine age of woe, Land of lost gods and godlike men, art $hittt* Steroid'* gilavimage. Thy vales of evergreen, thy hills of snow,* Proclaim thee Nature's varied favourite now, Thy fanes, thy temples to the surface bow, Commingling slowly with heroic earth, Broke by the share of every rustic plough : So perish monuments of mortal birth, So perish all in turn, save well-recorded Worth ; LXXXVI. Save where some solitary column mourns Above its prostrate brethren of the cave ; f Save where Tritonia's airy shrine adorns Colonna's cliff, and gleams along the wave ; t *On many of the mountains, particularly Liakura, the snow never is entirely melted, notwithstanding the intense heat of the summer; but I never saw it lie on the plains, even in winter. t Of Mount Pentelicus, from whence the marble was dug that constructed the public edifices of Athens. The modern name is Mount Mendeli. An immense cave formed by the quarries still remains, and will till the end of time. X In all Attica, if we except Athens itself and Mara- thon, there is no scene more interesting than Cape Colonna. To the antiquary and artist, sixteen columns are an inexhaustible source of observation and design; to the philosopher, the supposed scene of some of Plato's conversations will not be unwelcome ; and the traveller will be struck with the beauty of the prospect over " isles that crown the TEgean deep; " but, for an Englishman, Colonna has yet an additional interest, as the actual spot of Falconer's shipwreck. Pallas and Plato are forgotten, in the recollection of Falconer and Campbell : " Here in the dead of night by Lonna's steep, The seaman's cry was heard along the deep." CMttc gjtowItPjes filgvimag*, 113 Save o'er some warrior's half-forgotten grave, Where the gray stones and unmolested grass Ages, but not oblivion, feebly brave, While strangers only not regardless pass, Lingering like me, perchance, to gaze, and sigh " Alas ! " LXXXVII. Yet are thy skies as blue, thy crags as wild : Sweet are thy groves, and verdant are thy fields, This temple of Minerva may be seen at sea from a great distance. In two journeys which I made, and one voyage to Cape Colonna, the view from either side by land was more striking than the approach from the isles. In our second land excursion we had a narrow escape from a party of Mainotes concealed in the caverns beneath. We were told afterwards by one of their prisoners, subsequently ransomed, that they were de- terred from attacking us by the appearance of my two Albanians; conjecturing very sagaciously, but falsely, that we had a complete guard of these Arnaouts at hand, they remained stationary, and thus saved our party, which was too small to have opposed any effect- ual resistance. Colonna is no less a resort of painters than of pirates : there " The hireling artist plants his paltry desk, And makes degraded nature picturesque." — (See Hodgson's Lady fane Grey, etc.) But there Nature, with the aid of Art, has done that for herself. I was fortunate enough to engage a very superior German artist, and hope to renew my acquaint- ance with this and many other Levantine scenes by the arrival of his performances. 8 n4 Guide l&xtM't pilgrimage, Thine olive ripe as when Minerva smile*., And still his honey'd wealth Hymettus yields ; There the blithe bee his fragrant fortress builds, The freeborn wanderer of thy mountain air ; Apollo still thy long, long summer gilds, Still in his beam Mendeli's marbles glare ; Art, Glory, Freedom fail, but Nature still is fair. Lxxxvnr. Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground ; No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould, But one vast realm of wonder spreads around, And all the Muse's tales seem truly told, Till the sense aches with gazing to behold The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon : Each hill and dale, each deepening glen and wold, Defies the power which crush'd thy temples gone : Age shakes Athena's tower, but spares gray Marathon. LXXXIX. Th« sun, the soil, but not the slave, the same ; Unchanged in all except its foreign lord— mite latoW'u gitgrimage. 115 Preserves alike its bounds and boundless fame ; The Battle-field, where Persia's victim horde First bow'd beneath the brunt of Hellas' sword, As on the morn to distant Glory dear, When Marathon became a magic word ;* Which utter'd, to the hearer's eye appear The camp, the host, the fight, the conqueror's career. xc. The flying Mede, his shaftless broken bow ; The fiery Greek, his red pursuing spear ; Mountains above, Earth's, Ocean's plain below ; Death in the front, Destruction in the rear ! Such was the scene — what now remaineth here ? What sacred trophy marks the hallow'd ground, Recording Freedom's smile and Asia's tear? * " Siste Viator— heroa calcas ! " was the epitaph on the famous C unt Merci ;— what, then, must be our feelings when standing on the tumulus of the two hundred (Greeks) who fell on Marathon ? The prin- cipal barrow has recently been opened by Fauvel : few or no relics, as vases, etc., were found by the excavator. The plain of Marathon was offered to me for sale at the sum of sixteen thousand piastres, about nine hundred pounds ! Alas !— " Expende — quot libras in duce summo— invenies!"— was the dust of Miltiades worth no more ? It could scarcely have fetched less if -sold by weight. n6 Child* ^nxoWg gitgumag^ The rifled urn, the violated mound, The dust thy courser's hoof, rude stranger! spurns around. xci. Yet to the remnants of thy splendour past Shall pilgrims, pensive, but unwearied, throng ; Long shall the voyager, with th' Ionian blast, Hail the bright clime of battle and of song ; Long shall thine annals and immortal tongue Fill with thy fame the youth of many a shore : Boast of the aged ! lesson of the young ! Which sages venerate and bards adore, As Pallas and the Muse unveil their awful lore. xcn. The parted bosom clings to wonted home, If aught that's kindred cheer the welcome hearth ; He that is lonely, hither let him roam, And gaze complacent on congenial earth. Greece is no lightsome land of social mirth ; But he whom Sadness sootheth may abide, And scarce regret the region of his birth, When wandering slow by Delphi's sacred side, Or gazing o'er the plairs where Greek and Persian died. $trilfo Smvoid'tf fil0tima0^ 117 XCIII. Let such approach this consecrated land, And pass in peace along the magic waste : But spare its relics — let no busy hand Deface the scenes, already how defaced ! Not for such purpose were these altars placed. Revere the remnants nations once revered : So may our country's name be undisgraced, So may'st thou prosper where thy youth was rear'd, By every honest joy of love and life endear'd ! xciv. For thee, who thus in too protracted song Hath soothed thine idlesse with inglorious lays, Soon shall thy voice be lost amid the throng Of louder minstrels in these later days : To such resign the strife for fading bays — 111 may such contest now the spirit move Which heeds nor keen reproach nor partial praise, Since cold each kinder heart that might ap- prove, And none are left to please where none are left to love. xcv. Thou too art gone, thou loved and lovely one ! Whom youth and youth's affections bound to me ; u8 (&Ml&t Statolith gngrimng*. Who did for me what none beside have done, Nor shrank from one albeit unworthy thee. What is my being ? thou hast ceased to be! Nor stay'd to welcome here thy wanderer home, Who mourns o'er hours which we no more shall see — Would they had never been, or were to come J Would he had ne'er return'd to find fresh cause to roam ! xcvi. Oh ! ever loving, lovely, and beloved ! How selfish Sorrow ponders on the past, And clings to thoughts now better far re- moved ! But Time shall tear thy shadow from me last. All thou couldst have of mine, stern Death, thou hast : The parent, friend, and now the more than friend ; Ne'er yet for one thine arrows flew so fast, And grief with grief continuing still to blend, Hath snatch'd the little joy that life had yet to lend. xcvn. Then must I plunge again into the crowd, And follow all that Peace disdains to seek? Where Revel calls, and Laughter, vainly loud, False to the heart, distorts the hollow cheek. To leave the flagging spirit doubly weak ! Still o'er the features, which perforce they cheer, To feign the pleasure or conceal the pique ; Smiles form the channel of a future tear, Or raise the writhing lip with ill-dissembled sneer. xcviii. What is the worst of woes that wait on age > What stamps the wrinkle deeper on the brow ? To view each loved one blotted from life s P a g e And be alone on earth, as I am now. Before the Chastener humbly let me bow, O'er hearts divided and o'er hopes destroy'd : Roll on, vain days ! full reckless may ye flow, Since Time hath reft whate'er my soul enjoy'd, And with the ills of Eld mine earlier years alloy'd. i2o (EMd* llarotd'0 gilpimag*, CANTO THE THIRD. 1816. "Afin que cette application vous forcat de penseraautre chose ; il n'y a en verite de remede que celui la et le temps." — Lettre du Roi de Prusse & D 'Aletnbert, Sept. 7> 177& I. Is thy face like thy mother's, my fair child ! Ada ! sole daughter of my house and heart ? When last I saw thy young blue eyes, they smiled, And then we parted, — not as now we part, But with a hope. — Awaking with a start, The waters heave around me ; and on high The winds lift up their voices : I depart, Whither I know not ; but the hour's gone by, When Albion's lessening shores could grieve or glad mine eye. 11. Once more upon the waters ! yet once more ! And the waves bound beneath me as a steed That knows his rider. Welcome to their roar ! ttMe y&MvW$ gilgtimag^ Swift be their guidance, wheresoe'er it lead ! Though the strain'd mast should quiver as a reed, And the rent canvas fluttering strew the gale, Still must I on : for I am as a weed, Flung from the rock, on Ocean's foam, to sail Where'er the surge may sweep, the tempest's breath prevail. Ill; In my youth's summer I did sing of One, The wandering outlaw of his own dark mind ; Again I seize the theme, then but begun, And bear it with me, as the rushing wind Bears the cloud onwards : in that Tale I find The furrows of long thought, and dried-up tears, Which, ebbing, leave a sterile track behind, O'er which all heavily the journeying years Plod the last sands of life — where not a flower appears. IV. Since my young days of passion — joy, or pain, Perchance my heart and harp have lost a string, And both may jar : it may be, that in vain I would essay as I have sung to sing. Yet, though a dreary strain, to this I cling, if2 Childc $Xf*tt'j l v \\t\v'mn$c. So that it wean me from the weary dream Of selfish grief or gladness — so it fling Forgetfulness around me — it shall seem To me, though to none else, a not ungrateful theme. He who, grown aged in this world of woe, In deeds, not years, piercing the depths of life, So that no wonder waits him ; nor below Can love or sorrow, fame, ambition, strife, Cut to his heart again with the keen knife Of silent, sharp endurance : he can tell Why thought seeks refuge in lone caves, yet rife With airy Images, and shnpes which dwell Still unimpair'd, though old, in the soul's haunted cell. VI. 'Tis to create, and in creating live A being more intense, that we endow With form our fancy, gaining as we give The life we image, even as I do now. What am 1 ? Nothing: but not so art thou, Soul of my thought ! with whom I traverse earth, Invisible but gazing, as I glow Mix'd with thy spirit, blended with thy birth, And feeling still with thee in my crush'd feel- ings' dearth. dftiiae garoW* g itgrimage. 123 VII. Yet must I think less wildly: I have thought Too long and darkly, till my brain became, In its own eddy boi'ling and o'erwrought, A whirling gulf of phantasy and flame : And thus, untaught in youth my heart to tame, My springs of life were poison'd. Tis too late ! Yet am I changed ; though still enough the same In strength to bear what time can not abate, And feed on bitter fruits without accusing Fate. VIII. Something too much of this : but now 'tis past, And the spell closes with its silent seal. Long-absent Harold reappears at last ; He of the breast which fain no more would feel, Wrung with the wounds which kill not, but ne'er heal ; Yet Time, who changes all, had alter'd him In soul and aspect as in age : years steal Fire fu§m the mind as vigour from the limb : And life's enchanted cup but sparkles near the brim. IX. His had been quaff'd too quickly, and he found , The dregs were wormwood ; but he fill a again, i24 Child* UaroItTiSi gilgvima©*. And from a purer fount, on holier ground, And deem'd its spring perpetual ; but in vain ! Still round him clung invisibly a chain Which gall'd for ever, fettering though un* seen, And heavy though it clank'd not ; worn with pain, Which pined although it spoke not, and grew keen, Entering with every step he took through many a scene. Secure in guarded coldness, he had mix'd Again in fancied safety with his kind, And deem'd his spirit now so firmly fix'd And sheath'd with an invulnerable mind, That, if no joy, no sorrow lurk'd behind ; And he, as one, might 'midst the many stand Unheeded, searching through the crowd to find Fit speculation ; such as in strange land He found in wonder-works of God and Nature's hand. XI. But who can view the ripen'd rose, nor seek To wear it ? who can curiously behold The smoothness and the sheen of beauty's cheek, Nor feel the heart can never all grow old ? Child* gatoM'* f ilgrimag*. 125 Who can contemplate Fame through clouds unfold The star which rises o'er her steep, nor climb ? Harold, once more within the vortex roll'd On with the giddy circle, chasing Time, Yet with a nobler aim than in his youth's fond prime. XII. But soon he knew himself the most unfit Of men to herd with man ; with whom he held Little in common ; untaught to submit His thoughts to others, though his soul was quell'd, In youth by his own thoughts ; still uncom- pell'd, He would not yield dominion of his mind To spirits against whom his own rebell'd ; Proud though in desolation ; which could find A life within itself, to breathe without mankind. XIII. Where rose the mountains, there to him were friends ; Where roll'd the ocean, thereon was his home ; Where a blue sky, and glowing clime, extends, He had the passion and the power to roan* ' The desert, forest, cavern, breaker's foam, i26 (&)\Mt glaroliPjSi gitgrimarje. Were unto him companionship ; they spake A mutual language, clearer than the tone Of his land's tongue, which he would oft forsake For Nature's pages glass'd by sunbeams on the lake. XIV. Like the Chaldean, he could watch the stars, Till he had peopled them with beings bright As their own beams ; and earth, and earth- born jars, And human frailties, were forgotten quite : Could he have kept his spirit to that flight, He had been happy ; but this clay will sink Its s'park immortal, envying it the light To which it mounts, as if to break the link That keep us from yon heaven which woos us to its brink. XV. But in Man's dwellings he became a thing Restless and worn, and stern and wearisome, Droop'd as a wild-born falcon with dipt wing, To whom the boundless air alone were home ; Then came his fit again, which to o'ercome, As eagerly the barr'd-up bird will beat His breast and beak against his wiry dome Till the blood tinge his plumage, so the heat Of his impeded soul would through his bosom eat. $JuId* Srartd'i* fitgriwag*. 127 XVI. Self-exiled Harold wanders forth again, With naught of hope left, but with less of gloom ; The very knowledge that he lived in vain, That all was over on this side the tomb, Had made Despair a smilingness assume, Which, though 'twere wild — as on the plun- der'd wreck When mariners would madly meet their doom With draughts intemperate on the sinking deck — Did yet inspire a cheer, which he forbore to check. XVII. Stop ! for thy tread is on an Empire's dust ! An Earthquake's spoil is sepulchred below 1 Is the spot mark'd with no colossal bust ? Nor column trophied for triumphal show ? None ; but the moral's truth tells simpler so, As the ground was before, thus let it be ; — ■ How that red rain hath made the harvest grow ! And is this all the world has gain'd by thee, Thou first and last of fields ! king-making Vic- tory ? XVIII. And Harold stands upon this place of skulls, The grave of France, the deadly Waterloo ! How in an hour the power which gave annuls 123 fflMt gavold^ gilgrimage. Its gifts, transferring fame as fleeting too ! In " pride of place " * here last the eagle flew, Then tore with bloody talon the rent plain, Pierced by the shaft of banded nations through ; Ambition's life and labours all were vain ; He wears the shatter'd links of the world's broken chain. XIX. Fit retribution ! Gaul may champ the bit, And foam in fetters, but is Earth more freer^ Did nations combat to make One submit ; Or league to teach all kings true sovereignty* What ! shall reviving thraldom again be The patch'd-up idol of enlighten'd days ? Shall we, who struck the Lion down, shall we Pay the Wolf homage ? proffering lowly gaze £.nd servile knees to thrones? No; prove be- fore ye praise ! xx. If not, o'er one fallen despot boast no more ! In vain fair cheeks were furrow'd with hot tears For Europe's flowers long rooted up before The trampler of her vineyards ; in vain years Of death, depopulation, bondage, fears, Have all been borne, and broken by the accord * " In pride of place " is a term of falconry, and means •he highest pitch of flight. See Macbeth, etc. " An eagle towering in his pride of place," etc. Of roused-up millions : all that most endears- Glory, is when the myrtle wreathes a sword Such as Harmodius drew on Athens' tyrant lord.* XXI. There was a sound of revelry by night, And Belgium's c -pital had gather'd then Her Beauty and her Chivalry, and bright The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men ; A thousand hearts beat happily ; and when Music arose with its voluptuous swell, Soft eyes look'd love to eyes which spake again, And all went merry as a marriage bell ; f But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell ! XXII. Did ye not hear it ? — No ; 'twas but the wind, Or the car rattling o'er the stony street ; On with the dance ! let joy be unconfin'd ; No sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet To chase the glowing Hours with flying feet. But hark ! — that heavy sound breaks in once more, * See the famous song on Harmodius and Aristo* giton. The best English translation is in BlancPs An- thology, by Mr. (now Lord Chief-Justice) Denman : " With myrtle my sword will I wreathe," etc. t On the night previous to the action, it is said that a ball was given at Brussels. 9 130 $lriUU llawtd^ gilgtimag*. As if the clouds its echo would repeat ; And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before ! Arm ! arm ! it is — it is — the cannon's opening roar ! XXIII. Within a window'd niche of that high hall Sate Brunswick's fated chieftain ; he did hear That sound, the first amidst the festival, And caught its tone with Death's prophetic ear; And when they smiled because he deem'd it near, His heart more truly knew that peal too well Which stretch'd his father on a bloody bier, And roused the vengeance blood alone could quell : He rush'd into the field, and, foremost fight- ing, fell. XXIV. Ah ! then and there was hurrying to and fro, And gathering tears, and tremblings of dis- tress, And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago Blush'd at the praise of their own loveliness ; And there were sudden partings, such as press The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs (JMde gawld'tf -gitgrimagc. 131 Which ne'er might be repeated : who would guess If ever more should meet those mutual eyes, Since upon night so sweet such awful morn could rise ! xxv. And there was mounting in hot haste : the steed, The mustering squadron, and the clattering car, Went pouring forward with impetuous speed, And swiftly forming in the ranks of war ; And the deep thunder peal on peal afar ; And near, the beat of the alarming drum Roused up the soldier ere the morning star; While throng'd the citizens with terror dumb, Or whispering, with white lips — "The foe! They come ! they come ! " XXVI. And wild and high the " Cameron's gather- ing" rose, The war-note of Lochiel, which Albyn's hills Have heard, and heard, too, have her Saxon foes : How in the noon of night that pibroch thrills Savage and shrill ! But with the breath which fills Their mountain-pipe, so fill the mountaineers With the fierce native daring which instils 132 (&%Mt fterold^ gfilgtimag*. The stirring memory of a thousand years, And Evan's, Donald's fame rings in each clan* man's ears ! * XXVII. And Ardennes waves above them her green leaves,! Dewy with Nature's tear-drops, as they pass, Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves, Over the unreturning brave, — alas ! Ere evening to be trodden like the grass Which now beneath them, but above shall grow In its next verdure, when this fiery mass Of living valour, rolling on the foe, And burning with high hope, shall moulder cold and low. XXVIII. Last noon beheld them full of lusty life, Last eve in Beauty's circle proudly gay, The midnight brought the signal-sound of strife, * Sir Evan Cameron, and his descendant Donald, the " gentle Lochiel " of the " forty-five." t The wood of Soignies is supposed to be a remnant of the forest of Ardennes, famous in Boiardo's Orlando, and immortal in Shakspeare's As You Like It. It is also celebrated in Tacitus, as being the spot of success- ful defence by the Germans against the Roman en- croachments. I have ventured to adopt the name connected with nobler associations than those of mere slaughter. QSkiUt 1§mvM'# g itgvitttage. 133 The morn the marshalling in arms,— the day Battle's magnificently stern array ! The thunder-clouds close o'er it, which when rent The earth is cover'd thick with other clay, Which her own clay shall cover, heap'd and pent, Rider and horse, — friend, foe, — in one red burial blent ! XXIX. Their praise is hymn'd by loftier harps than mine ; Yet one I would select from that proud throng, Partly because they blend me with his line, And partly that I did his sire some wrong, And partly that bright names will hallow song ; And his was of the bravest, and when shower'd The death-bolts deadliest the thinn'd files along, Even where the thickest of war's tempest lower'd, They reach'd no nobler breast than thine, young, gallant Howard ! xxx. There have been tears and breaking hearts for thee, And mine were nothing, had I such to give j 134 GMfo StowM'jsi g\\$vxm$t. But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree, Which living waves where thou didst cease to live, And saw around me the wide field revive With fruits and fertile promise,and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turn'd from all she brought to those she could not bring.* * My guide from Mont St. Jean over the field seemed intelligent and accurate. The place where Major Howard fell was not far from two tall and solitary trees (there was a third, cut down, or shivered, in the battle), which stand a few yards from each other at a pathway's side. Beneath these he died and was buried. The body has since been removed to England. A small hollow for the present marks where it lay, but will probably soon be effaced ; the plough has been upon it, and the grain is. After pointing out the different spots where Picton and other gallant men had perished, the guide said, " Here Major Howard lay : I was near him when wounded." I told him my relationship, and he seemed then still more anxious to point out the particular spot and circumstances. The place is one of the most marked in the field, from the peculiarity of the two trees above mentioned. I went on horseback twice over the field, comparing it with my recollection of similar scenes. As a plain, Waterloo seems marked out for the scene of some great action, though this may be mere imagination. I have viewed with atten- tion those of Platea, Troy, Mantinea, Leuctra, Chaeronea, and Marathon, and the field around Mont St. Jean and Hougoumont appears to want little but a better cause, and that undefinable but impressive halo which the lapse of ages throws around a cele- brated spot, to vie in interest with any or all of these, except perhaps the last mentioned. GMde ^nwWt fitgrimafl** 135 XXXI. I turn'd to thee, to thousands, of whom each And one as all a ghastly gap did make In his own kind and kindred, whom to teach Forgetfulness were mercy for their sake ; The Archangel's trump, not glory's, must awake Those whom they thirst for ; though the sound of Fame May for a moment soothe, it cannot slake The fever of vain longing, and the name So honour'd, but assumes a stronger, bitterer claim. XXXII. They mourn, but smile at length ; and, smiling, mourn : The tree will wither long before it fall ; The hull drives on, though mast and sail be torn ; The roof-tree sinks, but moulders on the hall In massy hoariness ; the ruin'd wall Stands when its wind-worn battlements are gone; The bars survive the captive they enthral ; The day drags through though storms keep out the sun ; And thus the heart will break, yet brokenly live on : 136 (&M\&t 'gnxoWz gUgrimag*. XXXIII. Even as a broken mirror, which the glass In every fragment multiplies ; and makes A thousand images of one that was, The same, and still the more, the more it breaks ; And thus the heart will do which not for- sakes, Living in shatter'd guise, and still, and cold, And bloodless, with its sleepless sorrow aches, Yet withers on till all without is old, Showing no visible sign, for such things are untold. xxxiv. There is a very life in our despair, Vitality of poison, — a quick root Which feeds these deadly branches : for it were As nothing did we die ; but life will suit Itself to Sorrow's most detested fruit, Like to the apples on the Dead Sea's shore,* All ashes to the taste : Did man compute Existence by enjoyment, and count o'er Such hours 'gainst years of life, — say, would he name threescore ? * The (fabled) apples on the brink of the lake As* phaltes were said to be fair without, and within ashes. Vide Tacitus, Histor. lib. v. 7. mWt f arotd'0 gilgtfowfl*. 137 XXXV. The Psalmist number' d out the years of man : They are enough ; and if thy tale be true, Thou, who didst grudge him even that fleeting span, More than enough, thou fatal Waterloo ! Millions of tongues record thee, and anew Their children's lips shall echo them, and say, " EL , where the sword united nations drew. Our countrymen were warring on that day ! " And this is much, and all which will not pass away. xxxvi. There sunk the greatest, nor the worst o£ men, Whose spirit antithetically mixt One moment of the mightiest, and again On little objects with like firmness fixt ; Extreme in all things ! hadst thou been be- twixt, Thy throne had still been thine, or never been; # For daring made thy rise as fall: tnou seek st Even now to reassume the imperial mien, And shake again the world, the Thunderer of the scene 1 138 «WWe SawW'iei gitgnmage, XXXVII. Conqueror and captive of the earth art thou! She trembles at thee still, and thy wild name Was ne'er more bruited in men's minds than now That thou art nothing, save the jest of Fame, Who woo'd thee once, thy vassal, and be- c me The flatterer of thy fierceness, till thou wert A god unto thyself ; nor less the same To the astounded kingdoms all inert, Who deem'd thee for a time whate'er thou didst assert. XXXVIII. Oh, more or less than man — in high or low Battling with nations, flying from the field ; Now making monarchs' necks thy footstool, now More than thy meanest soldier taught to yield ; An empire thou couldst crush, command, re- build, But govern not thy pettiest passion, nor, However deeply in men's spirits skill'd, Look through thine own, nor curb the lust of war, Nor learn that tempted Fate will leave the loftiest star. CHiJfo ^mW# Sttgrintajp, 139 XXXIX, Yet well thy soul hath brook'd the turning tide With that untaught innate philosophy, Which, be it wisdom, coldness, or deep pride, Is gall and wormwood to an enemy, When the whole host of hatred stood hard by, To watch and mock thee shrinking, thou hast smiled With a sedate and all-enduring eye ; When Fortune fled her spoil'd and favourite child, He stood unbow'd beneath the ills upon him piled. XL. Sager than in thy fortunes ; for in them Ambition steel'd thee on too far to show That just habitual scorn, which could con- temn Men and their thoughts ; 'twas wise to feel, not so To wear it ever on thy 3ip and brow, And spurn the instruments thou wert to use Till they were turn'd unto thine overthrow : 'Tis but a worthless world to win or lose ; So hath it proved to thee, and all such lot who choose. 140 €Mt\t ftovotiTiS gitgrimafl*. XLI. If, like a tower upon a headland rock, Thou hadst been made to stand or fall alone, Such scorn of man had help'd to brave the shock ; But men's thoughts were the steps which paved thy throne, Their admiration thy best weapon shone ; The part of Philip's son was thine, not then (Unless aside thy purple had been thrown) Like stern Diogenes to mock at men ; For sceptred cynics earth were far too wide a den.* XLII. But quiet to quick bosoms is a hell, And there hath been thy bane ; there is a fire And motion of the soul, which will not dwell In its own narrow being, but aspire * The great error of Napoleon, " if we have writ our annals true," was a continued obtrusion on mankind of his want of all community of feeling for or with them : perhaps more offensive to human vanity than the active cruelty of more trembling and suspicious tyranny. Such were his speeches to public assemblies as well as individuals; and the single expression which he is said to have used on returning to Paris after the Russian winter had destroyed his army, rubbing his hands over a fire, " This is pleasanter than Moscow," would prob- ably alienate more favour from his cause than the de* Struction and reverses which led to the remark. Chilfo gjtevoItTg gilgrimage. 141 Beyond the fitting medium of desire ; And, but once kindled, quenchless ever- more, Preys upon high adventure, nor can tire Of aught but rest ; a fever at the core, Fatal to him who bears, to all who ever bore. XLIII. This makes the madmen who have made men mad By their contagion ! Conquerors and Kings, Founders of sects and systems, to whom add Sophists, Bards, Statesmen, all unquiet things Which stir too strongly the soul's secret springs, And are themselves the fools to those they fool ; Envied, yet how unenviable ! what stings Are theirs ! One breast laid open were a school Which would unteach mankind the lust to shine or rule. XLIV. Their breath is agitation, and their life A storm whereon they ride to sink at last, And yet so nursed and bigoted to strife, That should their days, surviving perils past, Melt to calm twilight, they feel overcast With sorrow and supineness, and so die ; 142 <*Mtl* $aroltT0 gilgrimage. Even as a flame unfed, which runs to waste With its own flickering, or a sword laid by, Which eats into itself, and rusts ingloriously. XLV. He who ascends to mountain-tops shall find The loftiest peaks most wrapt in clouds and snow ; He who surpasses or subdues mankind, Must look down on the hate of those below, Though high above the sun of glory glow, And far beneath the earth and ocean spread, Round him are icy rocks, and loudly blow Contending tempests on his naked head, And thus reward the toils which to those sum- mits led. XLVI. Away with these ! true Wisdom's world will be Within its own creation, or in thine, Maternal Nature ! for who teems like thee, Thus on the banks of thy majestic Rhine ? There Harold gazes on a work divine, A blending of all beauties ; streams and dells, Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine, And chiefless castles breathing stern fare* wells From gray but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. $Hitd* gatotd^ g itgrimag*. 143 XLVII. And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, All tenantless, save to the crannying wind, Or holding dark communion with the cloud. There was a day when they were young and proud, Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, And those which waved are shredless dust ere now, And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow. xlviii. Beneath these battlements, within those walls, Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud state Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, Doing his evil will, nor less elate Than mightier heroes of a longer date. What want these outlaws conquerors should have * But History's purchased page to call them great ? A wider space, an ornamented grave ? * " What wants that knave that a king should have ? " vtsls King James's question on meeting Johnny Arm- strong and his followers in full accoutrements. — See the Ballad. i44 (tttol&t gSaroItVjsi gUgrimage. Their hopes were not less warm, their souls were full as brave. XLIX. In their baronial feuds and single fields, What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! And Love, which lent a blazon to their shields, With emblems well devised by amorous pride, Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; But still their flame was fierceness, and drew on. Keen contest and destruction near allied, And many a tower for some fair mischief won, Saw the discolour'd Rhine beneath its ruin run. L. But Thou, exulting and abounding river ! Making thy waves a blessing as they flow Through banks whose beauty would endure for ever Could man but leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to see Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know Earth paved like Heaven ; and to seem such to me €fxMt §Mt*0liT0 fgilfltfmag*. 145 Even now what wants thy stream ? — that it should Lethe be. LI. A thousand battles have assaiPd thy banks, But these and half their fame have pass'd away, And Slaughter heap'd on high his weltering ranks : Their very graves are gone, and what are they? Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yester- day, And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream Glass'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ; But o'er the blacken'd memory's blighting dream Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as they seem. LII. Thus Harold inly said, and pass'd along, Yet not insensible to all which here Awoke the jocund birds to early song In glens which might have made even exile dear : Though on his brow were graven lines austere, And tranquil sternness which had ta'en the place Of feelings fiercer far but less severe. 10 146 Child* garuid^ gilgtfmage, Joy was not always absent from his face, But o'er it in such scenes would steal with transient trace. LIII. Nor was all love shut from him, though his days Of passion had consumed themselves to dust. It is in vain that we would coldly gaze On such as smile upon us ; the heart must Leap kindly back to kindness, though dis- gust Hath wean'd it from all worldlings : thus he felt, For there was soft remembrance, and sweet trust In one fond breast, to which his own would melt, And in its tenderer hour on that his bosom dwelt. LIV. And he had learn'd to love, — I know not why, For this in such as him seems strange of mood, — The helpless looks of blooming infancy, Even in its earliest nurture ; what subdued, To change like this, a mind so far imbued With scorn of man, it little boots to know; But thus it was ; and though in solitude m\l&t ataMfor* fitgrimap, 147 Small power the nipp'd affections have to grow, In him this glow'd when all beside had ceased to glow. LV. And there was one soft breast, as hath been said, Which unto his was bound by stronger ties Than the church links withal ; and, though unwed, That love was pure, and, far above disguise, Had stood the test of mortal enmities Still undivided, and cemented more By peril, dreaded most in female eyes ; But this was firm, and from a foreign shore Well to that heart might his these absent greet- ings pour ! The castled crag of Drachenfels* Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine, * The castle of Drachenfels stands on the highest summit of " The Seven Mountains," over the Rhine* banks ; it is in ruins, and connected with some singula- traditions. It is the first in view on the road fron» Bonn, but on the opposite side of the river. On this bank, nearly facing it, are the remains of another, called the Jew's Castle, and a large cross commemora- tive of the murder of a chief by his brother. The number of castles and cities along the course of the Rhine on both sides is very great, and their situations remarkably beautiful. '48 mitt mtow* mwm$t. AnH ?m al K ri u h With bloss ™'d trees, And fields which promise corn and wine And scatter'd cities crowning these, ' H*° Se 5 ar ?* lte walls al0 "g them shine, wfihV ?7 a SCene ' Which 2 should see With double joy wert thou with me | And peasant girls, with deep-blue eyes, And hands which offer early flowers, Walk smiling o'er this paradise • Above, the frequent feudal towers Ihmugh green leaves lift their walls of And many a rock which steeply lours, And noble arch in proud decay Look o'er this vale of vintage bowers ; But one thing want these banks of Rhine — Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine ! I send the lilies given to me ; iK°! g K before thy ham} the y touch > I know that they must wither'd be But yet reject them not as such ; ' £or I have cherish'd them as dear Because they yet may meet thine eye, And guide thy soul to mine even here, J hen thou behold'st them drooping nigh, AnH k "°t?V hem gather'd by the Rhine/ And offer d from my heart to thine ! The river nobly foams and flows, The charm of this enchanted ground, And all its thousands turns disclose borne fresher beauty varying round • tttttte Smtt'* gummas*- 149 The haughtiest breast its wish might bound Through life to dwell delighted here ; Nor could on earth a spot be found To nature and to me so dear, Could thy dear eyes in following mine Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine ! LVI. By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, There is a small and simple pyramid, Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid, Our enemy's,— but let not that forbid Honour to Marceau ! o'er whose early tomb Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough soldier's lid, Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume. LVTI. Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, — His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes ; And fitly may the stranger lingering here Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose ; For he was Freedom's champion, one of those, The few in number, who had not o erstept The charter to chastise which she bestows 150 (&M&t garotte gitgrimage. On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept* LVIII. Here Ehrenbreitstein,f with her shatter'd wall * The monument of the young and lamented General Marceau (killed by a rifle-ball at Alterkirchen on the last day of the fourth year of the French Republic) still remains as described. The inscriptions on his monument are rather too long, and not required — his name was enough. France adored, and her enemies admired ; both wept over him. His funeral was attended by the generals and detachments from both armies. In the same grave General Hoche is interred, a gallant man also in every sense of the word; but though he distinguished himself greatly in battle, he had not the good fortune to die there; his death was attended by suspicions of poison. A separate monument (not over his body, which is buried by Marceau' s) is raised for him near Andernach, opposite to which one of his most memorable exploits was performed, in throwing a bridge to an island on the Rhine. The shape and style are different from that of Marceau's and the in- scription more simple and pleasing : " The Army of the Sambre and Meuseto its Commander-in-Chief, Hoche." This is all, and as it should be. Hoche was esteemed among the first of France's earlier generals, before Bonaparte monopolized her triumphs. He was the destined commander of the invading army of Ireland. t Ehrenbreitstein, i. e. " the broad stone of honor," one of the strongest fortresses in Europe, was dismantled and blown up by the French at the truce of Leoben. It had been, and could only be, reduced by famine or treachery, It yielded to the former, aided by surprise. After having seen the fortifications of Gibraltar and tffcilA* §totMs gilgtlmajie. 15 x Black with the miner's blast, upon her height Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball Rebounding idly on her strength did light ; A tower of victory ! from whence the flight Of baffled foes was watch'd along the plain : But Peace destroy'd what War could never blight, And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer s ram — >j On which the iron shower for years had pour d in vain. LIX. Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long, de- lighted, The stranger fain would linger on his way ! Thine is a scene alike where souls united Or lonely Contemplation thus might stray ; And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey On self-condemning bosoms, it were here, Where Nature, nor too sombre nor too gay, Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere, Is to the mellow Earth as Autumn to the year. Malta, it did not much strike by comparison ; but the situation is commanding. General Marceau besieged it in vain for some time; and I slept in a room where I was shown a window at which he is said to have been standing, observing the progress of the siege by moon- light, when a ball struck immediately below it. 152 tSMlfc garold^ gfitgrimage, LX. Adieu to thee again ! a vain adieu ! There can be no farewell to scene like thine; The mind is coloured by thy every hue ; And if reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine ! 'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise ; More mighty spots may rise — more glaring shine, But none unite in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair, and soft ; — the glories of old days. LXI. The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen, The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom, The forest's growth, and Gothic walls be- tween, The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been In mockery of man's art ; and these withal A race of faces happy as the scene, Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, Still springing o'er thy banks, though Empires near them fall. LXII. But these recede. Above me are the Alps, The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps, And throned Eternity in icy halls Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls The avalanche— the thunderbolt of snow ! All that expands the spirh>yet appals, Gather round these summits, as to show How Earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave vain man below. LXIII. But ere these matchless heights I dare to scan, There is a spot should not be pass d in vain, — Morat ! the proud, the patriot field ! where man May gaze on ghastly trophies of the slam, Nor blush for those who conquered on that plain ; , . Here Burgundy bequeath'd his tombless host, A bony heap, through ages to remain, Themselves their monument ;— the Stygian coast Unsepulchred they roam'd, and shriek d each wandering ghost.* * The chapel is destroyed, and the pyramid of bones diminished to a small number by the Burgundian legion in the service of France, who anxiously effaced this record of their ancestors 1 less successful invasions. A few still remain, notwithstanding the pains taken by the Burgundians for ages (all who passed that way remov- ing a bone to their own country), and the less justifiable larcenies of the Swiss postilions, who carried them oft 154 (C'hUdc gtottfMP* JUgnmagc. LXIV. While Waterloo with Cannae's carnage vies, Morat and Marathon twin names shall stand ; They were true Glory's stainless victories, Won by the unambitious heart and hand Of a proud, brotherly, and civic band, All unbought champions in no princely cause Of vice-entail'd Corruption ; they no land Doom'd to bewail the blasphemy of laws Making king's rights divine, by some Draconic clause. LXV. By a lone wall a lonelier column rears A gray and grief-worn aspect of old days, 'Tis the last remnant of the wreck of years, And looks as with the wild bewilder'd gaze Of one to stone converted by amaze, Yet still with consciousness ; and there it stands, Making a marvel that it not decays, to sell for knife-handles, — a purpose for which the whiteness imbibed by the bleaching of years had rendered them in great request. Of these relics I ventured to bring away as much as may have made a quarter of a hero, for which the sole excuse is, that if I had not, the next passer-by might have perverted them to worse uses than the careful preservation which I intend for them. <£1xMt %mM f $ gilgrimage. 155 When the coeval pride of human hands, Levell'd Aventicum, hath strew'd her subject lands.* LXVI. And there — oh ! sweet and sacred be the name ! — Julia — the daughter, the devoted — gave Her youth to Heaven, her heart, beneath a claim Nearest to Heaven's, broke o'er a father's grave. Justice is sworn 'gainst tears, and hers would crave The life she lived in, but the judge was just, And then she died on him she could not save. Their tomb was simple, and without a bust, And held within their urn one mind, one heart, one dust.f * Aventicum, near Morat, was the Roman capital of Helvetia, where Avenches now stands. t Julia Alpinula, a young Aventian priestess, died soon after a vain endeavour to save her father.condemned to death as a traitor by Aulus Caecina. Her epitaph was discovered many years ago. It is thus: "Julia Alpinula : Hie jaceo. Infelicis patris infelix proles. Deae Aventiae Sacerdos. Exorare patris necem non potui : Male mori in fatis ille erat. Vixi annos XXIII." I know of no human composition so affecting as this, nor a history of deeper interest. These are the names and actions which ought not to perish, and to which we turn with a true and healthy tenderness, from the wretched and glittering detail of a confused mass of 156 (K'hUdc l*aroUr$ vUfuimnge. LXVII. But there are deeds which should not pass away, And names that must not wither, though the earth Forgets her empires with a just decay. The enslavers and the enslaved, their death and birth ; The high, the mountain-majesty of worth, Should be, and shall, survivor of its woe, And from its immortality look forth In the sun's face, like yonder Alpine snow,* Imperishably pure beyond all things below. LXVIII. Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, The mirror where the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect in each trace Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue : conquests and battles, with which the mind is roused for a time to a false and feverish sympathy, from whence it recurs at length with all the nausea conse- quent on such intoxication. * This is written in the eye of Mont Blanc (June 3d, 1S16,) which even at this distance dazzles mine. (July 20.) — I this day observed for some time the distinct reflection of Mont Blanc and Mont Argentiere in the calm of the lake, which I was crossing in my boat. The distance of these mountains from their mirror is sixty miles. Child* garotd^ gitgrimage. 157 There is too much of man here, to look through With a fit mind the might which I behold ; But soon in me shall Loneliness renew Thoughts hid, but not less cherish'd than of old, Ere mingling with the herd had penn'd me in their fold. LXIX. To fly from, need not be to hate, mankind ; All are not fit with them to stir and toil, Nor is it discontent to keep the mind Deep in its fountain, lest it overboil In one hot throng, where we become the spoil Of our infection, till too late and long We may deplore and struggle with the coil, In wretched interchange of wrong for wrong 'Midst a contentious world, striving where none are strong. LXX. There, in a moment, we may plunge our years In fatal penitence, and in the blight Of our own soul, turn all our blood to tean: And colour things to come with hues of Night ; The race of life becomes a hopeless flight To those that walk in darkness ; on the sea, The boldest steer but where their ports in- vite, 158 ttitfa gawWjsi gitantttage. But there are wanderers o'er Eternity Whose bark drives on and on, and anchof'd ne'er shall be. LXXI. Is it not better, then, to be alone, And love Earth only for its earthly sake ? By the blue rushing of the arrowy Rhone,* Or the pure bosom of its nursing lake, Which feeds it as a mother who doth make A fair but fro ward infant her own care, Kissing its cries away as these awake ; — Is it not better thus our lives to wear, Than join the crushing crowd, doom'd to inflict or bear ? LXXII. I live not in myself, but I become Portion of that around me ; and to me, High mountains are a feeling, but the hum Of human cities torture : I can see Nothing to loathe in nature, save to be A link reluctant in a fleshly chain, Class'd among creatures, when the soul can flee, And with the sky, the peak, the heaving plain Of ocean, or the stars, mingle, and not in vain. * The colour of the Rhone at Geneva is blue to a depth of tint which I have never seen equalled in water, salt or fresh, except in the Mediterranean and Archipelago. (&UMt ^xxoWg gitpimag*. 159 LXXIII. And thus I am absorb'd, and this is life : I look upon the peopled desert past, As on a place of agony and strife, Where, for some sin, to Sorrow I was cast, To act and suffer, but remount at last With a fresh pinion ; which I felt to spring, Though young, yet waxing vigorous as the blast Which it would cope with, on delighted wing, Spurning the clay-cold bonds which round our being cling. LXXIV. And when, at length, the mind shall be all free From what it hates in this degraded form, Reft of its carnal life, save what shall be Existent happier in the fly and worm, — When elements to elements conform, And dust is as it should be, shall I not Feel all I see, less dazzling, but more warm ? The bodiless thought ? the Spirit of each spot ? Of which, even now, I share at times the im« mortal lot ? LXXV. Are not the mountains, waves, and skies a part Of me and of my soul, as I of them ? Is not the love of these deep in my heart x6o Childc ifmWt giIgrittXge< With a pure passion ? should I not contemn All objects,if compared with these ? and stem A tide of suffering, rather than forego Such feelings for the hard and worldly phlegm Of those whose eyes are only turned below, Gazing upon the ground, with thoughts which dare not glow ? LXXVI. But this is not my theme ; and I return To that which is immediate, and require Those who find contemplation in the urn, To look on One whose dust was once all fire, A native of the land where I respire The clear air for a while — a passing guest, Where he became a being, — whose desire Was to be glorious ; 'twas a foolish quest, The which to gain and keep he sacrificed all rest. LXXVII. Here the self-torturing sophist, wild Rous- seau, The apostle of affliction, he who threw Enchantment over passion, and from woe Wrung overwhelming eloquence, first drew The breath which made him wretched ; yet he knew How to make madness beautiful, and cast O'er erring deeds and thoughts a heavenly hue €Mde ItotiVtf gilfltimag*, 161 Of words, like sunbeams, dazzling as they past The eyes, which o'er them shed tears feelingly and fast. LXXVIII. His love was passion's essence — as a tree On fire by lightning ; with ethereal flame Kindled he was, and blasted ; for to be Thus, and enamour'd, were in him the same. But his was not the love of living dame, Nor of the dead who rise upon our dreams, But of Ideal beauty, which became In him existence, and o'erflowing teems Along his burning page, distemper'd though it seems. LXXIX. This breathed itself to life in Julie, this Invested her with all that's wild and sweet ; This hallow'd, too, the memorable kiss * Which every morn his fever'd lip would greet, * This refers to the account in his Confessions of his passion for the Comtesse d'Houdetot (the mistress of St. Lambert), and his long walk every morning, for the sake of the single kiss which was the common saluta- tion of French acquaintance. Rousseau's description of his feelings on this occasion maybe considered as the most passionate, yet not impure, description and ex- pression of love that ever kindled into words; which, after all, must be felt from their very force to be inade- quate to the delineation. A painting can give no suf* ficent idea of the ocean. II 162 (gfoMt garoltTjsi pilgrimage. From hers, who but with friendship his would meet : But to that gentle touch, through brain and breast Flash'd the thrill'd spirit's love-devouring heat ; In that absorbing sigh perchance more blest, Than vulgar minds may be with all they seek possest. LXXX. His life was one long war with self-sought foes, Or friends by him self-banish'd ; for his mind Had grown Suspicion's sanctuary, and chose For its own cruel sacrifice, the kind, 'Gainst whom he raged with fury strange and blind, But he was frenzied, — wherefore, who may know ? Since cause might be which skill could never find ; But he was frenzied by disease or woe To that worst pitch of all, which wears a rea- soning show. LXXXI. For then he was inspired, and from him came, As from the Pythian's mystic cave of yore, Those oracles which set the world in flame, m\&t »a*oM* filgrimase. 163 Nor ceased to burn till kingdoms were no more : . . , , u ^ Did he not this for France, which lay be- fore 3 Bow'd to the inborn tyranny of years t Broken and trembling to the yoke she bore, Till by the voice of him and his compeers Roused y up to too much wrath, which follows o'ergrown fears ? LXXXII. Thev made themselves a fearful monument! The wreck of old opinions-things which Breathed from the birth of time; the veil And whltTehind it lay, all earth shall view. But good with ill they also overthrew Leaving but ruins, wherewith to rebuild Upon the same foundation, and renew Dungeons and thrones, which the same hour As heretofore', because ambition was self-will'd. LXXXIII. But this will not endure, nor be endured! Mankind have felt their strength, and made Theymtght have used it better, but, allured By their new vigour, sternly have they dealt On one another; Phased to melt With her once natural chanties. But tney, 164 (EfxMt garold^ f itgrimage. Who in oppression's darkness caved had dwelt, They were not eagles, nourish'd with the day; What marvel then, at times, if they mistook their prey ? LXXXIV. What deep wounds ever closed without a scar ? The heart's bleed longest, and but heal to wear That which disfigures it ; and they who war With their own hopes, and have been van- quished, bear Silence, but not submission ; in his lair Fix'd Passion holds his breath, until the hour Which shall atone for years ; none need de- spair : It came, it cometh, and will come, — the power To punish or forgive — in one we shall be slower. LXXXV. Clear, placid, Leman ! thy contrasted lake, With the wide world I dwelt in, is a thing Which warns me, with its stillness, to forsake Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring. This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing To waft me from distraction ; once I loved Torn ocean's roar, but thy soft murmuring $hil enlightened friendship, than — though not ungrateful — I can, or could be, to Childe Harold, for any public favour reflected through the p em on the poet, — to one whom, I have known lon,_ and accompanied far, whom I have found wakeful over my si kness and kind in my sorrow, glad in ■ y prosperity and firm in my adversity, true in counsel and tru3ty in peril, — to a f ^nd often tried and nev ■ f ' . ->d wanti g ; — to yourself. In so doing, I recir from fiction to truth, and in ded- icating to you, in it complete or at least concluded jjtate, a pr tical w k which is the longest, the most thoughtful and comprehensive of my compositions, I svish to do honour to myself by the record of many years' intimacy with a man of learning, of talent, of steadiness, and of honour. It is not for minds like- ours to give or to receive flattery ; yet the praises of sincerity have ever been permitted to the voice of friendship ; and it is not for you, nor even for others, but to relieve a heart which has not elsewhere, or lately,. been so much accustomed to the encounter of good-wili 1 82 $tul4* TgwoWfi § ilgrimage. as to withstand the shock firmly, that I thus attempt to commemorate your good qualities, or rather the ad- vantages which I have derived from their exertion. Even the recurrence of the date of this letter, the anni- versary of the most unfortunate day of my past exist- ence,* but which cannot poison my future while I re- tain the resource of your friendship, and of my own faculties, will henceforth have a more agreeable recol- lection for both, inasmuch as it will remind us of this my attempt to thank you for an indefatigable regard, such as few men have experienced, and no one could experience without thinking better of his species and of himself. It has been our fortune to traverse together, at various periods, the countries of chivalry, history, and fable — Spain, Greece, Asia Minor, and Italy ; and what Athens and Constantinople were to us a few years ago, Venice and Rome have been more recently. The poem also, or the pilgrim, or both, have accompanied me from first to last : and perhaps it may be a pardonable vanity which induces me to reflect with complacency on a composition which in some degree connects me with the spot where it was produced, and the objects it would fain describe; and however unworthy it may De deemed of those magical and memorable abodes, however short it may fall of our distant conceptions and immediate impressions, yet as a mark of respect for what is venerable, and of feeling for what is glorious, it has been to me a source of pleasure in the production, and I part with it with a kind f regret, which I hardly suspected that events could have left me for imaginary objects. With regard to the conduct of the last canto, there will be found less of the pilgrim than in any of the preceding, and that little slightly, if at all, separated from the author speaking in his own person. The fact is, that I had become weary of drawing aline which every one seemed determined not to perceive : like the Chinese in Goldsmith's Citizen of the Worlds whom nobody would believe to be a Chinese, it was in vain *His marriage. (&h%Wt StoW$ gitpimage, 183 that I asserted, and imagined that I had drawn, a dis- tinction between the author and the pilgrim ; and the very anxiety to preserve this difference, and disappoint- ment at finding it unavailing, so far crushed my efforts in the composition, that I determined to abandon it altogether — and have done so. The opinions which have been, or may be, formed on that subject, are now a matter of indifference : the work is to depend on it- self and not on the writer ; and the author, who has no resources in his own mind beyond the reputation, transient or permanent, which is to arise from his literary efforts, deserves the fate of authors. In the course of the following canto it was my inten- tion, either in the text or in the notes, to have touched upon the present state of Italian literature, and perhaps of manners. But the text, within the limits I proposed, I soon found hardly sufficient for the labyrinth of ex- ternal objects, and the consequent reflections ; and for the whole of the notes, excepting a few of the shortest, I am indebted to yourself, and these were necessarily limited to the elucidation of the text. It is also a delicate, and no very grateful task, to dissert upon the literature and manners of a nation so dissimilar ; and requires an attention and impartiality which would induce us — though perhaps no inattentive observers, nor ignorant of the language or customs of the people amongst whom we have recently abode — to distrust, or at least defer our judgment, and more narrowly examine our information. The state of literary as well as political party appears to run, or to have run, so high, that for a stranger to steer impartially between them is next to impossible. It may be enough, then, at least for my purpose, to quote from their own beauti- ful language — " Mi pare che in un paese tutto poetico, che vanta la lingua la piu nobile ed insieme la piu dolce, tutte tutte le vie diverse si possono tentare, e che sinche la patria di Alfieri e di Monti non ha perduto l'antico valore, in tutte essa doverbbe essere la prima." Italy has great names still : Canova, Monti, Ugo Foscolo, Pindemonte, Visconti, Morelli, Cicognara, Albrizzi, Mezzophanti, Mai, Mustoxidi, Aglietti, and Vacca, will 184 (StoiUte gavuld'j* gitgrimag*. secure to the present generation an honourable place in most of the departments of art, science, and belles lettres; and in some the very highest. Europe — the World — has but one Canova. It has been somewhere said by Alfieri, that " La pianta uomo nasce piu robusta in Italia che in qualun- que altra terra — e che gli stessi atroci delitti che vi si commettono ne sono una prova." Without subscrib- ing to the latter part of his proposition — a dangerous doctrine, the truth of which may be disputed on better grounds, namely, that the Italians are in no respect more ferocious than their neighbours — that man must be wilfully blind, or ignorantly heedless, who is not struck with the extraordinary capacity of this people,, or, if such a word be admissible, their capabilities, the facility of their acquisitions, the rapidity of their concep- tions, the fire of their genius, their sense of beauty, and amidst all the disadvantages of repeated revolutions, the desolation of battles, and the despair of ages, their still unquenched "longing after immortality" — the immortality of independence. And when we ourselves, in riding round the walls of Rome, heard the simple lament of the labourers' chorus, " Roma ! Roma ! Roma t Roma non e piu come era prima," it was difficult not to contrast this melancholy dirge with the bacchanal roar of the songs of exultation still yelled from the London taverns, over the carnage of Mont St. Jean, and the betrayal of Genoa, of Italy, of France and of the world, by men whose conduct you yourself have ex- posed in a work worthy of the better days of our history. For me,- " Non movero mai corda Ove la turba di sue ciance assorda." What Italy has gained by the late transfer of nations, it were useless for Englishmen to inquire, till it be- comes ascertained that England has acquired something more than a permanent army and a suspended Habeas Corpus; it is enough for them to look at home. For what they have done abroad, and especially in the WxW %jnvM'# gilgnmag*, 185 south, " verily they will have their reward, and at no very distant period." Wishing you, my dear Hobhouse, a safe and agree- able return to that country whose real welfare can be dearer to none than to yourself, I dedicate to you this poem in its completed state ; and repeat once more how truly I am ever, your obliged and affectionate friend, Byron. J stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs ; A palace and a prison on each hand : I saw from out the wave her structures rise As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand : A thousand years their cloudy wings expand Around me, and a dying Glory smiles O'er the far times when many a subject land Looked to the winged Lion's marble piles, Where Venice sate in state, throned on her hundred isles ! 11. She looks a sea Cybele, fresh from ocean, Rising with her tiara of proud towers At airy distance, with majestic motion, A ruler of the waters and their powers : And such she was ; her daughters had their dowers Prom spoils of nations, and the exhaustless East Pour'd in her lap all gems in sparkling showers. x86 (t\\\Ut &mWfi gitovimagc. In purple was she robed, and of her fearf Monarchs partook, and deem'd their dignity increased. in. In Venice, Tasso's echoes are no more, And silent rows the songless gondolier ; Her palaces are crumbling to the shore. And music meets not always now the ear : Those days are gone — but Beauty still is here. States fall, arts fade — but Nature doth not die, Nor yet forget how Venice once was dear, The pleasant place of all festivity, The revel of the earth, the masque of Italy ! IV. But unto us she hath a spell beyond Her name in story, and her long array Of mighty shadows, whose dim forms de- spond Above the Dogeless city's vanish'd sway , Ours is a trophy which will not decay With the Rialto ; Shylock and the Moor, And Pierre, cannot be swept or worn away — The keystones of the arch ! though all were o'er, For us repeopled were the solitary shore. The beings of the mind are not of clay ; Essentially immortal, they create (£KxMt % m M>$ filgnmag** 187 And multiply in us a brighter ray And more beloved existence : that which Fate Prohibits to dull life, in this our state Of mortal bondage, by these spirits supplied. First exiles, then replaces what we hate ; Watering the heart whose early flowers have died, And with a fresher growth replenishing the void. VI. Such is the refuge of our youth and age, The first from Hope, the last from Vacancy ; And this worn feeling peoples many a page, And, may be, that which grows beneath mine eye : Yet there are things whose strong reality Outshines our fairy-land, in shape and hues More beautiful than our fantastic sky, And the strange constellations which the Muse O'er her wild universe is skilful to diffuse : VII. I saw or dream'd of such, — but let them go — They came like truth, and disappear'd like dreams ; And whatsoe'er they were — are now but so ; I could replace them if I would : still teems 188 m\&c garoN'* gilgrimage. My mind with many a form which aptly seems Such as I sought for, and at moments found ; Let these too go — for waking reason deems Such overweening phantasies unsound. And other voices speak, and other sights surround. VIII. I've taught me other tongues, and in strange eyes Have made me not a stranger ; to the mind Which is itself, no changes bring surprise ; Nor is it harsh to make, nor hard to find A country with — ay, or without mankind ; Yet was I born where men are proud to be ? Not without cause ; and should I leave behind The inviolate island of the sage and free, And seek me out a home by a remoter sea. IX. Perhaps I loved it well : and should I lay My ashes in a soil which is not mine, My spirit shall resume it — if we may Unbodied choose a sanctuary. I twine My hopes of being remember'd in my line With my land's language ; if too fond and far These aspirations in their scope incline,— mm lawW'jst f ilgtimagf. 189 If my fame should be, as my fortunes are, Of hasty growth and blight, and dull Oblivion bar My name from out the temple where the dead Are honour'd by the nations — let it be — And light the laurels on a loftier head ! And be the Spartan's epitaph on me — " Sparta hath many a worthier son than he." * Meantime I seek no sympathies, nor need ; The thorns which I have reap'd are of the tree I planted, — they have torn me, and I bleed : should have known what fruit would spring from such a seed. XI. The spouseless Adriatic mourns her lord ; And, annual marriage now no more renew'd, The Bucentaur lies rotting unrestored, Neglected garment of her widowhood ! St. Mark yet sees his lion where he stood Stand, but in mockery of his wither'd power, Over the proud Place where an Emperor sued, And monarchs gazed and envied in the hour When Venice was a queen with an unequall'd dower. * The answer of the mother of Brasidas, the Lace- daemonian general, to the strangers who praised the memory of her son. 190 €h\Ut Steroid^ gilgnmage* XII. The Suabian sued, and now the Austrian reigns — An Emperor tramples where an Emperor knelt ; Kingdoms are shrunk to provinces, and chains Clank over sceptred cities ; nations melt From power's high pinnacle, when they have felt The sunshine for a while, and downward go Like lauwine loosened from the mountain's belt: Oh for one hour of blind old Dandolo ! Th' octogenarian chief, Byzantium's con- quering foe. XIII. Before St. Mark still glow his steeds of brass, Their gilded collars glittering in the sun ; But is not Doria's menace come to pass ? Are they not bridled 7 — Venice, lost and won, Her thirteen hundred years of freedom done, Sinks, like a sea-weed, into whence she rose I Better be whelm'd beneath the waves, and shun, Even in Destruction's depth, her foreign foes, From whom submission wrings an infamous repose. m\&t itottTj* SU0rtm»(je* 191 XIV. In youth she was all glory,— a new Tyre, — Her very byword sprung from victory, The " Planter of the Lion," * which through fire , And blood she bore o'er subject earth and Though 'making many slaves, herself still free, And Europe's bulwark 'gainst the Ottomite : Witness Troy's rival, Candia ! Vouch it ye Immortal waves that saw Lepanto's fight ! For ye are names no time nor tyranny can blight. xv. Statues of glass— all shiver'd— the long file Of her dead Doges are declined to dust ; But where they dwelt, the vast and sump- tuous pile Bespeaks the pageant of their splendid trust ; Their sceptre broken, and their sword in rust, Have yielded to the stranger : empty halls, Thin streets, and foreign aspects, such as must . Too oft remind her who and what enthrals, Have flung a desolate cloud o'er Venice' lovely walls. * That is the Lion of St. Mark, the standard of the republic, which is the origin of the word Pantaloon— Piantaleone, Pantaleon, Pantaloon. (fhiidr Turold'.s ^ilgrimagf. xvi. When Athens' armies fell at Sync 1 feuer'd thousands b . fee of war. Redemption rose up in the A Her voice their only ransom from afar : - they chant the tragic hymn, the car Of the o'ermaster'd victor stops, the reins Fall from his hands — the idle scir. :s from its belt — he rends his cau chn And bids him thank the bard for freedom and his strains. xvii. nice.if no stronger claim were thine, Were all thy proud historic deeds forgot, Thy coral memory of the Bard divine, love of Tasso, should have cut the knot Which ties thee to thy tyrants : and thy lot Is shameful to the nations. — most of all, Albion ! to thee ; the Ocean Queen should not Abandon Ocean's children ; in the fall .nice think of thine, despite thy watery wall. :n. I loved her from my boyhood : she to me Was as a f a. . : the he.v og like water-columns from the Of joy the sojourn, and of wealth the mart * - - Childe Tiarold's pilgrimage. And Radcliffe, Schiller, Shaks- Had -;amp"d her image in me, and even so, Although I found her thus, we did not part, : :hance even dearer in her day of woe, Than when she was a boast, a marvel, and a sh: . I can repeople with the past — and of The present there is still for eye and thong i meditation chasten'd down. enou_ And more, it may be, than I hoped or sought ; And of "the happiest moments which wrought ithin the web of m nee, some Frc . have their colours 3 There are some feelings Time can not benumb. Nor torture shake, or mine would now be cold and dumb. xx. But from the' _-owf Loftiest on loftiest and least shelter'd rocks, ■:.- of Venice- is the plural «H of far oeculiar to the Alps, which only thr. rj rocky ^ ' 15 194 Childc Ihivours' gilgrimage. Rooted in barrenness, where nought below Of soil supports them 'gainst the Alpine shocks Of eddying storms ; yet springs the trunk, and mocks The howling tempest, till its height and frame Are worthy of the mountains from whose blocks Of bleak, gray granite, into life it came, And grew a giant tree ; — the mind may grow the same. XXI. Existence may be borne, and the deep root Of life and sufferance makes its firm abode Jn bare and desolate bosoms : mute The camel labours with the heaviest load, And the wolf dies in silence. Not bestow'd In vain should such examples be ; if they, Things of ignoble or of savage mood, Endure and shrink not, we of nobler clay May temper it to bear, — it is but for a day. XXII. All suffering doth destroy, or is destroy'd, Even by the sufferer ; and, in each event, Ends : — Some, with hope replenished and rebuoy'd, parts, where scarcely soil sufficient for its nourishment can be found. On these spots it grows to a greate* height than any other mountain tree. Return to whence they came— with like intent, And weave their web again; some, bow'd and bent, Wax gray and ghastly, withering ere their time, And perish with the reed on which they leant ; Some seek devotion, toil, war, good or crime, According as their souls were form'd to sink or climb. XXIII. But ever and anon of griefs subdued There comes a token like a scorpion's sting, Scarce seen, but with fresh bitterness imbued : And slight withal may be the things which bring Back on the heart the weight which it would fling Aside for ever : it may be a sound — A tone of music— summer's eve — or spring — A flower — the wind — the ocean — which shall wound, Striking the electric chain wherewith we are darkly bound : XXIV. And how and why we know not, nor can trace Home to its cloud this lightning of the mind, 196 (t\x\UU XtaroUr.s pilgrimage, But feel the shock renew'd, nor can efface The blight and blackening which it leaves behind, Which out of things familiar, undesign'd, When least we deem of such, calls up to view The spectres whom no exorcism can bind, — The cold — the changed — perchance the dead — anew, The mourn'd, the loved, the lost — too many!— yet how few ! xxv. But my soul wanders ; I demand it back To meditate amongst decay, and stand A ruin amidst ruins ; there to track Fallen states and buried greatness, o'er a land Which was the mightiest in its old command, And is the loveliest, and must ever be The master-mould of Nature's heavenly hand, Wherein were cast the heroic and the free, The beautiful, the brave — the lords of earth and sea. XXVI. The commonwealth of kings, the men of Rome ! And even since, and now, fair Italy ! Thou art the garden of the world, the home Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree ; $hitde IforcM'* f itgrimage. 197 Even in thy desert, what is like to thee ? Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste More rich than other climes' fertility ; Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced. XXVII. The moon is up, and yet it is not night — Sunset divides the sky with her — a sea Of glory streams along the Alpine height Of blue Friuli's mountains : Heaven is free From clouds, but of all colours seems to be — Melted to one vast Iris of the West, Where the Day joins the past Eternity ; While, on the other hand, meek Dian's crest Floats through the azure air — an island of the blest ! XXVIII. A single star is at her side, and reigns With her o'er half the lovely heaven ; but still Yen sunny sea heaves brightly, and remains Roll'd o'er the peak of the far Rhaetian hill, As Day and Night contending were, until Nature reclaim'd her order : — gently flows The deep-dyed Brenta, where their hues instil The odorous purple of a new-born rose, Which streams upon her stream, and glass'd within it glows. 198 Child* gterold** ^il^timagc. XXIX. Fill'd with the face of heaven, which, from afar, Comes down upon the waters ; all its hues, From the rich sunset to the rising star, Their magical variety diffuse : And now they change ; a paler shadow strews Its mantle o'er the mountains ; parting day Dies like the dolphin, whom each pang imbues With a new colour as it gasps away, The last still loveliest, till — 'tis gone — and all is gray. XXX. There is a tomb in Arqua ; — rear'd in air, Pillar'd in their sarcophagus, repose The bones of Laura's lover : here repair Many familiar with his well-sung woes, The pilgrims of his genius. He arose To raise a language, and his land reclaim From the dull yoke of her barbaric foes : Watering the tree which bears his lady's name With his melodious tears, he gave himself to fame. XXXI. They keep his dust in Arqua, where he died ; The mountain-village where his latter days ChiUte garotte gitgrimnge. 199 Went down the vale of years ; and 'tis their pride — An honest pride — and let it be their praise. To offer to the passing stranger's gaze His mansion and his sepulchre ; both plain And venerably simple, such as raise A feeling more accordant with his strain, Than if a pyramid form'd his monumental fane. XXXII. And the soft quiet hamlet where he dwelt Is one of that complexion which seems- made For those who their mortality have felt, And sought a refuge from their hopes de- cay'd In the deep umbrage of a green hill's shade, Which shows a distant prospect far away Of busy cities, now in vain display'd. For they can lure no further ; and the ray Of a bright sun can make sufficient holiday, XXXIII. Developing the mountains, leaves, and flowers, And shining in the brawling brook, where- by, Clear as its current, glide the sauntering hours 300 (Child? garolir.s ^ilflnmanc. With a calm languor, which, though to the eye Idlesse it seem, hath its morality. If from society we learn to live, 'Tis solitude should teach us how to die ; It hath no flatterers ; vanity can give No hollow aid ; alone — man with his God must starve ; XXXIV. Or, it may be, with demons, who impair The strength of better thoughts, and seek their prey In melancholy bosoms, such as were Of moody texture from their earliest day, And loved to dwell ill darkness and dismay, Deeming themselves predestined to a doom Which is not of the pangs that pass away; Making the sun like blood, the earth a tomb. The tomb a hell, and hell itself a murkier gloom. XXXV. Ferrara ! in thy wide and grass-grown streets, Whose symmetry was not for solitude, There seems as 'twere a curse upon the seats Of former sovereigns, and the antique brood Of Este, which for many an age made good m\fa gavotd^ gUerimage. 201 Its strength within thy walls, and was of yore Patron or tyrant, as the changing mood Of petty power impell'd, of those who wore The wreath which Dante's brow alone had worn before. xxxvi. And Tasso is their glory and their shame. Hark to his strain ! and then survey his cell! And see how dearly earn'd Torquato's fame, And where Alfonso bade his poet dwell. The miserable despot could not quell The insulted mind he sought to quench, and blend With the surrounding maniacs, in the hell Where he had plunged it. Glory without end Scatter'd the clouds away — and on that name attend. XXXVII. The tears and praises of all time, while thine Would rot in its oblivion — in the sink Of worthless dust, which from thy boasted line Is shaken into nothing ; but the link Thou formest in his fortunes bids us think 102 $hild* itold'isi gjilgnwafl*. Of thy poor malice, naming thee with scorn — Alfonso ! how thy ducal pageants shrink From thee ! if in another station born, Scarce fit to be the slave of him thou mad'st to mourn. xxxvm. Thou / form'd to eat, and be despised, and die, Even as the beasts that perish, save that thou Hadst a more splendid trough, and wider sty; Me I with a glory round his furrow'd brow, Which emanated then, and dazzles now In face of all his foes the Cruscan quire. And Boileau, whose rash envy could allow No strain which shamed his country's creak- ing lyre, That whetstone of the teeth — monotony in wire ! XXXIX. Peace to Torquato's injured shade ! 'twas his In life and death to be the mark where Wrong Aim'd with her poison'd arrows — but to miss. Oh, victor unsurpass'd in modern song ! Each year brings forth its millions ; but how long The tide of generations shall roll on, And not the whole combined and countless throng Compose a mind like thine ? Though all in one Condensed their scatter'd rays, they would not form a sun. XL. Great as thou art, yet parallel'd by those, Thy countrymen, before thee born to shine,. The Bards of Hell and Chivalry : first rose The Tuscan father's comedy divine, Then, not unequal to the Florentine, The southern Scott, the minstrel who call'd forth A new creation with his magic line, And, like the Ariosto of the North, Sang ladye-love and war, romance and knightly worth. XLI. The lightning rent from Ariosto's bust The iron crown of laurel's mimck'd leaves ; Nor was the ominous element unjust, For the true laurel-wreath which Glory weaves Is of the tree no bolt of thunder cleaves, And the false semblance but disgraced his. brow : Yet still, if fondly Superstition grieves, 2o4 (I'hihlc HtavoUr.c VUfltimaar. Know that the lightning sanctifies below Whate'er it strikes ; — yon head is doubly sacred now. XI. II. Italia! () Italia I thou who hast The fatal gift of beauty, which became A funeral dower of present woes and past, On thy sweet brow is sorrow ploughed l>y shame, And annals graved in characters of flame, O God ! that thou wert in thy nakedness 9 lovely or more powerful, and couldst claim Thy right, and awe the robbers back, who press To shed thy blood, and drink the tears of thy distri XLIII. Then mightst thou more appal ; or, less desired, Be homely and be peaceful, undeplored For thy destructive charms ; then, still un- til'eo. Would not be seen the armed torrents pour'd Down the deep Alps ; nor would the hos- tile horde Of many-nation'd spoilers from the Po Quaff blood and water ; nor the stranger's sword Child* garotte gilgrimnflc. 20: Be thy sad weapon of defence, and so, Victor or vanquish'd, thou the slave of friend or foe. XLIV. Wandering in youth, I traced the path of him, The Roman friend of Rome's least mortal mind, The friend of Tully: as my bark did skim The bright blue waters with a fanning wind, Came Megara before me, and behind JEgina lay, Piraeus on the right, And Corinth on the left ; I lay reclined Along the prow, and saw all these unite In ruin, even as he had seen the desolate sight ; XLV. For time hath not rebuilt them, but uprear'd Barbaric dwellings mi their shatter'd site, Which only make more mourn'd and more endear'd The few last rays of their far-scatter'd light. And the crush'd relics of their vanish'd might. The Roman saw these tombs in his own age, These sepulchres of cities, which excite Sad wonder, and his yd surviving page The moral lesson bears, drawn from such pil« grimage. 2o6 (ChiliU JiavoUr.s JUgvimnge. XLVI. That page is now before me, and on mine His country's ruin added to the mass Of perish'd states he mourn'd in their de« cline, And I in desolation ; all that was Of then destruction is; and now, alas! Rome — Rome imperial, bows her to the storm, In the same dust and blackness, and we pass The skeleton of her Titanic form, Wrecks of another world, whose ashes still are warm. XLVII. Yet, Italy ! through every other land Thy wrongs should ring, and shall, from side to side ; Mother of Arts ! as once of Arms ; thy hand Was then our guardian, and is still our guide ; Parent of our Religion ! whom the wide Nations have knelt to for the keys of heaven ! Europe, repentant of her parricide, Shall yet redeem thee, and, all backward driven, Roll the barbarian tide, and sue to be for- given. dtfxMt Jjwtortd'0 sgilgnwag*. 207 XLVIII. But Arno wins us to the fair white walls, Where the Etrurian Athens claims and keeps A softer feeling for her fairy halls. Girt by her theatre of hills, she reaps Her corn, and wine, and oil, and Plenty leaps To laughing life, with her redundant horn. Along the banks where smiling Arno sweeps, Was modern Luxury of Commerce born, And buried Learning rose, redeem'd to a new morn. XLIX. There, too, the Goddess loves in stone, and fills The air around with beauty ; we inhale The ambrosial aspect which, beheld, instils Part of its immortality; the veil Of heaven is half undrawn ; within the pale We stand, and in that form and face be- hold What Mind can make, when Nature's self would fail ; And to the fond idolaters of old Envy the innate flash which such a soul could mould : We gaze and turn away, and know not where, Dazzled and drunk with beauty till the heart *o8 (!Mde JtoroUTjei gilflrimaflc. Reels with its fulness ; there — for evel there — Chain'd to the chariot of triumphal Art, We stand as captives, and would not de- part. Away ! — there need no words, nor terms precise, The paltry jargon of the marble mart, Where Pedantry gulls Folly — we have eyes: Blood, pulse, and breast, confirm the Dardan Shepherd's prize. LI. Appear'dst thou not to Paris in this guise? Or to more deeply blest Anchises? or, In all thy perfect goddess-ship, when lies Before thee thy own vanquished Lord of War ? And gazing in thy face as toward a star, Laid on thy lap, his eyes to thee upturn, Feeding on thy sweet cheek ! while thy lips are With lava kisses melting while they burn, Shower'd on his eyelids, brow, and mouth, as from an urn ! LII. Glowing, and circumfused in speechless love, Their full divinity inadequate That feeling to express, or to improve, The gods become as mortals, and man's fate ttild* gtoltTjsi gilgrimage* 209 Has moments like their brightest ! but the weight Of earth recoils upon us ; — let it go ! We can recall such visions, and create From what has been, or might be, things which grow, Into thy statue's form, and look like gods below. Mil. I leave to learned fingers, and wise hands, The artist and his ape, to teach and tell How well his connoisseurship understands The graceful bend, and the voluptuous swell : Let these describe the undescribable ; I would not their vile breath should crisp the stream Wherein that image shall for ever dwell ; The unruffled mirror of the loveliest dream That ever left the sky on the deep soul to beam. LIV. In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie Ashes which make it holier, dust, which is Even in itself an immortality, Though there were nothing save the past, and this The particle of those sublimities Which have relapsed to chaos : — here repose 14 2io Cluldc gtattttfr gitgrtaagt. Angelo's, Alfieri's bones, and his, The starry Galileo, with his woes ; Here Machiavelli's earth returned to whence it rose. LV. These are four minds, which, like the ele- ments, Might furnish forth creation : — Italy ! Time, which hath wrong'd thee with ten thousand rents Of thine imperial garment, shall deny, And hath denied, to every other sky. Spirits which soar from ruin : — thy decay Is still impregnate with divinity, Which gilds it with revivifying ray; Such as the great of yore, Canova is to-day. LVI. But where repose the all Etruscan three — Dante, and Petrarch, and, scarce less than they, The Bard of Prose, creative spirit ! he Of the Hundred Tales of love — where did they lay Their bones, distinguish'd from our common clay In death as life ? Are they resolved to dust, And have their country's marbles nought to say ? (fffeUfc iiaroW'ssi gitgrimaae. 2n Could not her quarries furnish forth one bust ? Did they not to her breast their filial earth entrust ? LVII. Ungrateful Florence ! Dante sleeps afar, Like Scipio, buried by the upbraiding shore ; Thy factions, in their worse than civil war, Proscribed the bard whose name for ever- more Their children's children would in vain adore With the remorse of ages ; and the crown Which Petrarch's laureate brow supremely wore, Upon a far and foreign soil had grown, His life, his fame, his grave, though rifled— not thine own. LVIII. Boccaccio to his parent earth bequeathed His dust, — and lies it not her Great among, With many a sweet and solemn requiem breathed O'er him who form'd the Tuscan's siren tongue ? That music in itself, whose sounds are song, The poetry of speech ? No : — even his tomb, Uptorn, must bear the hyaena bigots' wrong, 2i2 (fhiUlc garoUVs VilruimaiK. No more amidst the meaner dead find room, Nor claim a passing sigh, because it told for whom I LIX. And Santa Croce wants their mighty dust; Yet for this want more noted, as of yore The Caesar's pageant, shorn of Brutus' bust, Did but of Rome's best son remind her more : Happier Ravenna ! on thy hoary shore, Fortress of (ailing empire ! honour'd sleeps The immortal exile : — Arqua, too, her store Of tuneful relics proudly claims and keeps, While Florence vainly begs her banish'd dead, and weeps. LX. What is her pyramid of precious stones ? Of porphyry, jasper, agate, and all hues Of gem and marble, to encrust the bones Of merchant-dukes ? the momentary dews Which, sparkling to the twilight stars, infuse Freshness in the green turf that wraps the dead, Whose names are mausoleums of the Muse, Are gently prest with far more reverent tread Than ever paced the slab which paves the princely head. $lnldc UteraWjai gilgrimag^ 213 LXI. There be more things to greet the heart and eyes In Arno's dome of Art's most princely shrine, Where Sculpture with her rainbow sister vies ; There be more marvels yet — but not for mine ; For I have been accustom'd to entwine My thoughts with nature rather in the fields, Than Art in galleries : though a work divine Calls for my spirit's homage, yet it yields Less than it feels, because the weapon which it wields LXII. Is of another temper, and I roam By Thrasimene's lake, in the defiles Fatal to Roman rashness, more at home ; For there the Carthaginian's warlike wiles Come back before me, as his skill beguiles The host between the mountains and the shore, Where Courage falls in her despairing files, And torrents, swolPn to rivers with their gore, Reek through the sultry plain, with legions scatter'd o'er. 2i4 (Thildc JftavoUr.s Vilflvimagc. LXIII. Like to a forest fell'd by mountain winds; And such the storm of battle on this day, And such the frenzy, whose convulsion blinds To all save carnage, that, beneath the fray, An earthquake reel'd unneededly away ! None felt stern Nature rocking at his feet. And yawning forth a grave for those who lay Upon their bucklers fur a winding-sheet : Such is the absorbing hate when warring nations meet ! LXIV. The Earth to them was as a rolling bark Which bore them to Eternity; they saw The Ocean round, but had no time to mark The motions of their vessel : Nature's law, In them suspended, reck'd not of the awe Which reigns when mountains tremble, and the birds Plunge in the clouds for refuge, and with- draw From their down-toppling nests ; and bellow- ing herds Stumble o'er heaving plains, and man's dread hath no words. LXV. Far other scene is Thrasimene now ; Her lake a sheet of silver, and her plain CKitae gKrift gilgvimafle, 215 Rent by no ravage save the gentle plough ; Her aged trees rise thick as once the slain Lay where their roots are ; but a brook hath ta'en — A little rill of scanty stream and bed — A name of blood from that day's sanguine rain •, And Sanguinetto tells ye where the dead Made the earth wet, and turn'd the unwilling waters red. LXVI. But thou, Clitumnus ! in thy sweetest wave Of the most living crystal that was e'er The haunt of river nymph, to gaze and lave Her limbs where nothing hid them, thou dost rear Thy grassy banks whereon the milk-white steer Grazes ; the purest god of gentle waters ! And most serene of aspect, and most clear : Surely that stream was unprofaned by slaughters, A mirror and a bath for Beauty's youngest daughters ! LXVII. And on thy happy shore a Temple still, Of small and delicate proportion, keeps, Upon a mild declivity of hill, Its memory of thee : beneath it sweeps Thy current's calmness: oft from out it leaps 216 <£Uilile gavoliT.s ^Pilgrimage. The finny darter with the flittering scales, Who dwells and revels in the glassy deeps; While, chance, some scatter'd water-lily sails Down where the shallower wave still tells its bubbling tales. lxviii. Pass not unblest the Genios of the place ! If through the air a zephyr more serene Will to the brow, 'tis his ; and if ye trace Along his margin a more eloquent green. If on the heart the freshness of the scene Sprinkle its coolness, and from the dry dust Of weary life a moment lave it clean With Nature's baptism. — 'tis to him ye must Pay orisons for this suspension of disgust. I.XIX. The roar of waters ! — from the headlong height Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice ; The fall of waters ! rapid as the light The flashing mass foams shaking the abyss; The hell of waters ! where they howl and hiss. And boil in endless torture ; while the sweat Of their great agony, wrung out from this Their Phlegethon, curls round the rocks of jet That gird the gulf around, in pitiless horror set, (EtoiUU iJtoWjsi gilgrimaflc. 217 LXX. And mounts in spray the skies, and thence again Returns in an unceasing shower, which round, With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain, Is an eternal April to the ground, Making it all one emerald. How profound The gulf ! and how the giant element From rock to rock leaps with delirious bound, Crushing the cliffs, which, downward worn and rent With his fierce footsteps, yield in chasms a fearful vent LXXI. To the broad column which rolls on and shows More like the fountain of an infant sea Torn from the womb of mountains by the throes Of a new world, than only thus to be Parent of rivers, which flow gushingly, With many windings through the vale :— Look back ! Lo ! where it comes like an eternity, As if to sweep down all things in its track, Charming the eye with dread, — a matchless cataract, 218 it\\Mt Baroia^ ^itgrimagr* LXXII. Horribly beautiful ! but on the verge, From side to side, beneath the glittering morn, An Iris sits, amidst the infernal surge, Like Hope upon a deathbed, and, unworn Its steady dyes, while all around is torn By the distracted waters, bears serene Its brilliant hues with all their beams un- shorn ! Resembling, 'mid the torture of the scene, Love watching Madness with unalterable mien. LXXIII. Once more upon the woody Apennine, The infant Alps, which — had I not before Gazed on their mightier parents, where the pine Sits on more shaggy summits, and where roar The thundering lauwine — might be wor- shipp'd more : But I have seen the soaring Jungfrau rear Her never-trodden snow, and seen the hoar Glaciers of bleak Mont Blanc both far and near. And in Chimari heard the thunder-hills of fear, LXXIV. The Acroceraunian mountains of old name,- And on Parnassus seen the eagles fly (£M\&t ftorottf^ gitgdmagc* 219 Like spirits of the spot, as 'twere for fame, For still they soar'd unutterably high : I've look'd on Ida with a Trojan's eye ; Athos, Olympus, ^Etna, Atlas, made These hills seem things of lesser dignity, All, save the lone Soracte's height display'd, Not now in snow, which asks the lyric Roman's aid LXXV. For our remembrance, and from out the plain Heaves like a long-swept wave about to break, And on the curl hangs pausing : not in vain May he who will his recollections rake, And quote in classic raptures, and awake The hills with Latin echoes ; I abhorr'd Too much to conquer for the poet's sake, The drill'd dull lesson, forced down word by word In my repugnant youth, with pleasure to record LXXVI. Aught that recalls the daily drug which turn'd My sickening memory ; and, though Time hath taught My mind to meditate what then it learn'd, Yet such the fix'd inveteracy wrought By the impatience of my early thought, 220 Chilile JuuoUr.s gttgrimage. That, with the freshness wearing out before My mind could relish what it might have sought, If free to choose, I cannot now restore Its health ; but what it then detested, still abhor. LXXVII. Then farewell, Horace: whom I hated so, Not for thy faults, but mine ; it is a curse To understand, not feel thy lyric flow, To comprehend, but never love thy verse, Although no deeper Moralist rehearse Our little life, nor Bard prescribe his art, Nor livelier Satirist the conscience pierce, Awakening without wounding the touch'd heart. Yet fare thee well — upon Soracte's ridge we part. LXXVIII. O Rome ! my country ! city of the soul ! The orphans of the heart must turn to thee, Lone mother of dead empires ! and control In their shut breasts their petty misery. What are our woes and sufferance ? Come and see The cypress, hear the owl, and plod your way O'er steps of broken thrones and temples, Ye! Whose agonies are evils of a day— A world is at our feet as fragile as our clay. LXXIX. The Niobe of nations ! there she stands, Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe ; , , An empty urn within her wither d hands, Whose holy dust was scatter'd long ago ; The Scipios' tomb contains no ashes now ; The very sepulchres lie tenantless Of their heroic dwellers : dost thou flow, Old Tiber ! through a marble wilderness ? Rise, with thy yellow waves, and mantle her distress ! LXXX. The Goth, the Christian, Time, War, Flood, and Fire, Have dealt upon the seven-hill'd city s pride : She saw her glories star by star expire, And up the steep barbarian monarchs Where the car climb'd the Capitol ; far and wide Temple and tower went down, nor leit a site ; — . , Chaos of ruins ! who shall trace the void, O'er the dim fragments cast a lunar light, And say, " Here was, or is," where all is doubly night ? 222 (Child* HuwoUr.s *Hlgvtma(j*. LXXXI. The double night of ages, and of her, Night's daughter, Ignorance, hath wrapt, and wrap All round us : we but feel our way to err : The ocean hath its chart, the stars their map, And Knowledge spreads them on her ample lap, But Rome is as the desert, where we steer Stumbling o'er recollections : now we clap Our hands and cry " Eureka ! " it is clear — When but some false mirage of ruin rises near. LXXXI I. Alas, the lofty city ! and alas, The trebly hundred triumphs ! * and the day When Brutus made the dagger's edge sur- pass The conqueror's sword in bearing fame away ! Alas for Tully's voice, and Virgil's lay, And Livy's pictured page ! But these shall be Her resurrection : all beside — decay. Alas, for Earth, for never shall we see That brightness in her eye she bore when Rome was free ! * Orosius gives 320 for the number of triumphs. He is followed by Panvinius, and Panvinius by Mr. Gibbon and the modern writers. (&MMt SmwUVie: gitgrimage* 223 LXXXIII O thou, whose chariot roll'd on Fortune's wheel, Triumphant Sylla ! Thou, who didst subdue Thy country's foes ere thou wouldst pause to feel The wrath of thy own wrongs, or reap the due Of hoarded vengeance till thine eagles flew O'er prostrate Asia ; — thou, who with thy frown Annihilated senates — Roman, too, With all thy vices, for thou didst lay down With an atoning smile a more than earthly crown — LXXXIV. The dictatorial wreath, — couldst thou divine To what would one day dwindle that which made Thee more than mortal ? and that so supine By aught than Romans Rome should thus be laid ? She who was named Eternal, and array'd Her warriors but to conquer — she who veil'd Earth with her haughty shadow, and dis- play'd, Until the o'er-canopied horizon fail'd, Her rushing wings — Oh ! she who was Almighty hail'd ! 224 (ThiUlf garaM'* pilgrimage. LXXXV Sylla was first of victors ; but our own, The sagest of usurpers, Cromwell ! — he Too swept off senates while he hew'd the throne Down to a block — immortal rebel ! See What crimes it costs to be a moment free And famous through all ages ! But beneath His fate the moral lurks of destiny ; 1 lis day of double victory and death Beheld him win two realms, and, happier, yield his breath. LXXXVI. The third of the same moon whose former course Had all but cro\vn"d him, on the self-same day Deposed him gently from his throne of force, And laid him with the earth's preceding clay. And show'd not Fortune thus how fame and sway, And all we deem delightful, and consume Our souls to compass through each arduous way. Are in her eyes less happy than the tomb ? Were they but so in man's, how different were his doom ! LXXXVII. And thou, dread statue ! yet existent in The austerest form of naked majesty, (MUt *§*xoW$ gilgrimage, Thou who beheldest, 'mid the assassins' din, At thy bathed base the bloody Caesar lie, Folding his robe in dying dignity, An offering to thine altar from the queen Of gods and men, great Nemesis ! did he die, And thou, too, perish, Pompey ? have ye been Victors of countless kings, or puppets of a scene ? LXXXVIII. And thou, the thunder-stricken nurse of Rome ! She-wolf ! whose brazen-imaged dugs impart The milk of conquest yet within the dome Where, as a monument of antique art, Thou standest : — Mother of the mighty heart, Which the great founder suck'd from thy wild teat, Scorch'd by the Roman Jove's ethereal dart, And thy limbs black'd with lightning — dost thou yet Guard thine immortal cuds, nor thy fond charge forget ? LXXXIX. Thou dost ; — but all thy foster-babes are dead — The men of iron ; and the world hath rear'd 15 226 (Thildc TgMtM'i $it0Vtaft#t. Cities from out their sepulchres : men bled In imitation of the things they fear'd, And fought and conquer'd, and the same course steer'd, At apish distance ; but as yet none have, Nor could, the same supremacy have near'd, Save one vain man, who is not in the grave, But, vanquish'd by himself, to his own slaves a slave, The fool of false dominion — and a kind Of bastard Caesar, following him of old With steps unequal: for the Roman's mind Was modell'd in a less terrestrial mould, With passions fiercer, yet a judgment cold. And an immortal instinct which redeem'd Tlie frailties of a heart so soft, yet bold, Alcides with the distaff now he seem'd At Cleopatra's feet, and now himself he beam'd, xcr. And came, and saw, and conquer'd. But the man Who would have tamed his eagles down tc- flee, lake a train'd falcon, in the Gallic van, Which he, in sooth, long led to victory, With a deaf heart which never seemed to be A listener to itself, was strangely framed ; With but one weakest weakness — vanity : $hitde gayoWg gilgtimage, 227 Coquettish in ambition, still he aim'd — At what ? Can he avouch, or answer what he claim'd ? xcn. And would be all or nothing — nor could wait For the sure grave to level him ; few years Had fix'd him with the Caesars in his fate, On whom we tread : For this the conqueror rears The arch of triumph ! and for this the tears And blood of earth flow on as they have flow'd, An universal deluge, which appears Without an ark for wretched man's abode, And ebbs but to reftow ! — Renew thy rainbow, God! XCIII. What from this barren being do we reap ? Our senses narrow, and our reason frail, Life short, and truth a gem which loves the deep, And all things weigh'd in custom's falsest scale ; Opinion on omnipotence, whose veil Mantles the earth with darkness, until right And wrong are accidents, and men grow pale Lest their own judgments should become too bright, And their free thoughts be crimes, and earth have too much light. 228 (DhiUlc TtavoUrs rUtuimagc, XCIV. And thus they plod in sluggish misery, Rotting from sire to son, and age to age, Proud of their trampled nature, and so diej Bequeathing their hereditary rage To the new race of inborn slaves, who wage War for their chains, and rather than be free, Bleed gladiator-like, and still engage Within the same arena where they see Their fellows fall before, like leaves of tha same tree. xcv, I speak not of men's creeds — they rest be- tween Man and his Maker — but of things allow'd, Averr'd, and known, — and daily, hourly seen — The yoke that is upon us doubly bow'd, And the intent of tyranny avow'd, The edict of Earths rulers, who are grown The apes of him who humbled once the proud, And shook them from their slumbers on the throne ; Too glorious, were this all his mighty arm had done. xcvi. Can tyrants but by tyrants conquer'd be, And Freedom find no champion and no child Child* gtetoW'iSi gilgrimafl*. 229 Such as Columbia saw arise when she Sprung forth a Pallas, arm'd and undefined? Or must such minds be nourish'd in the wild, Deep in the unpruned forest, 'midst the roar Of cataracts, where nursing nature smiled On infant Washington ? Has Earth no more Such seeds within her breast, or Europe no such shore? xcvn. But France got drunk with blood to vomit crime And fatal have her Saturnalia been To Freedom's cause, in every age and clime ; Because the deadly days which we have seen And vile Ambition, that built up between Man and his hopes an adamantine wall, And the base pageant last upon the scene, Are grown the pretext for the eternal thrall Which nips Life's tree, and dooms man's worst — his second fall. xcviii. Yet, Freedom ! yet thy banner, torn, but flying, Streams like the thunder-storm against the wind ; Thy trumpet-voice, though broken now and dying, The loudest still the tempest leaves behind; *3° (Childc TuroUr.o' iMjivimagc. Thy tree hath lost its blossoms, and the rind, Chopp'd by the axe, looks rough and little worth, But the sap lasts, — and still the seed we find Sown deep, even in the bosom of tin- North ; So shall a better spring less bitter fruit bring forth. XCIX. There is a stern round tower of other days, Firm as ;i fortress, with its fence of stone, Such as an army's baffled strength delays, Standing with half its battlements alone, And with two thousand years of ivy grown. The garland of eternity, where wave The green leaves over all by time o'erthrown : What was this tower of strength? within its cave What treasure lay so lock'd, so hid ? — A woman's grave.* c. But who was she, the lady of the dead, Tomb'd in a palace ? Was she chaste and fair ? Worthy a king's — or more — a Roman's bed ? What race of chiefs and heroes did she bear ? "What daughter of her beauties was the heir ? * The tomb of Cecilia Metella. Chitde gavoUt'0 SHgrimage. 231 How lived — how loved — how died she ? Was she not So honour'd — and conspicuously there, Where meaner relics must not dare to rot, Placed to commemorate a more than mortal lot ? CI. Was she as those who love their lords, or they Who love the lords of others? such have been Even in the olden time, Rome's annals say,. Was she a matron of Cornelia's mien. Or the light air of Egypt's graceful queen, Profuse of joy ; or 'gainst it did she war, Inveterate in virtue ? Did she lean To the soft side of the heart, or wisely bar Love from amongst her griefs ? — for such the affections are. en. Perchance she died in youth : it may be,. bow'd With woes far heavier than the ponderous tomb That weigh'd upon her gentle dust, a cloud Might gather o'er her beauty, and a gloom In her dark eye, prophetic of the doom Heaven gives its favourites — early death; yet shed A sunset charm around her, and illume 232 Whittle gtoflft fttgttaxge. With hectic light, the Hesperus of the dead, cons red. Of her consuming cheek the autumnal leaf-like cm. Perchance she died in age — surviving all, Charms, kindred, children — with the silver gray On her long tresses, which might yet recall, It may DC, still a something of the day When they were braided, and her proud array And lovely form were envied, praised, and ed By Rome — But whither would Conjecture stray ? Thus much alone we know — Nfetella died, Tlie wealthiest Roman's wife : Behold his love or pride ! civ. I know not why — but standing thus by thee It seems as if 1 had thine inmate known, Thou Tomb ! and other days come back on me With recollected music, though the tone Is changed and solemn, like the cloudy groan Of dying thunder on the distant wind ; Yet could I seat me by this ivied stone Till I had bodied forth the heated mind, Forms from the floating wreck which ruin leaves behind ; cv. And from the planks, far shatter'd o'er the rocks, Built me a little bark of hope, once more To battle with the ocean and the shocks Of the loud breakers, and the ceaseless roar Which rushes on the solitary shore Where all lies founder'd that was ever dear : But could I gather from the wave-worn store Enough for my rude boat, where should I steer ? There woos no home, nor hope, nor life, save what is here. cvi. Then let the winds howl on ! their harmony Shall henceforth be my music, and the night The sound shall temper with the owlets' cry, As I now hear them, in the fading light Dim o'er the bird of darkness' native site, Answer each other on the Palatine, With their large eyes, all glistening gray and bright, And sailing pinions. — Upon such a shrine What are our petty griefs ? — let me not number mine. cvi 1. Cypress and ivy, weed and wallflower grown Matted and mass'd together, hillocks heap'd 254 tfhilde gto*14'j SUgrtaftge* On what were chambers, arch crush'd, column strown In fragments, choked-up vaults, and frescoes steep'd In subterranean damps, where the owl peep'd, Deeming it midnight: -Temples, baths, or halls ? DOUnce who can; for all that learning ;>'d FVom her research hath been. that these are walls — Behold the Imperial Mount! 'tis thus the mighty falls. :il. There is the moral of all human t.. Tis but the same relu-.irs.il of the p.ist. First Freedom, and then Glory — when that fails Wealth, vice, corruption — barbarism at last And History, with all her volumes vast. Hath but ftlipage — 'tis better written here. Whei Tyranny hath thus am All treasures, all delights, that eye or ear, Heart, soul could seek, tongue ask — Away with words ! draw near, ( IX. Admire, exult — despise — laugh, weep — for here There is such matter for all feeling: — Man! Thou pendulum betwixt a smile and tear, A^es and realms are crowded in this span, This mountain, whose obliterated plan The pyramid of empires pinnacled, Of Glory's gewgaws shining in the van Till the sun's rays with added flame were fill'd! f . . Where are its golden roofs ? where those who- dared to build ? ex. Tully was not so eloquent as thou, # Thou nameless column with the buried base ! , , •> What are the laurels of the Caesar s brow ? Crown me with ivy from his dwelling-place* Whose arch or pillar meets me in the face, Titus or Trajan's ? No : 'tis that of ime : Triumph, arch, pillar, all he cloth displace, Scoffing ; and apostolic statues climb To crush 1 the imperial urn, whose ashes slept sublime,* CXI, Buried in air, the deep blue sky of Rome, And looking to the stars; they had con- tain'd . A spirit which with these would find a home. The last of those who o'er the whole earth reign'd, * The column of Trajan is surmounted by St. Peter; lat of Aurelius by St. Paul. 236 (Childc TuuoUr.o ^ityrimatic. The Roman globe, for after none sustain'd But yielded back his conquests : — he was more Than a mere Alexander, and unstain'd With household blood and wine, serenely wore His sovereign virtues — still we Trajan's name adore. ex II. Where is the rock of Triumph, the high place Where Rome embraced her heroes? where the steep Tarpeian — fittest goal of Treason's race, The promontory whence the Traitor's Leap Cured all ambition ? Did the Conquerors heap Their spoils here ? Yes ; and in yon field below, A thousand years of silenced factions sleep— The Forum where the immortal accents glow, And still the eloquent air breathes — burns with Cicero ! CXIII. The field of freedom, faction, fame, and blood : Here a proud people's passions were exhaled, From the first hour of empire in the bud To that when further worlds to conquer fail'd ; But long before had Freedom's face been veil'd, (tthiW gjwrtdfi* gitgriwag*. 237 And Anarchy assumed her attributes ; Till every lawless soldier who assail'd Trod on the trembling Senate's slavish mutes, Or raised the venal voice of baser prostitutes. cxiv. Then turn we to our latest tribune's name, From her ten thousand tyrants turn to thee, Redeemer of dark centuries of shame — The friend of Petrarch — hope of Italy — Rienzi ! last of Romans ! While the tree Of Freedom's wither'd trunk puts forth a leaf, Even for thy tomb a garland let it be — The forum's champion, and the people's chief — Her new-born Numa thou, with reign, alas ! too brief. cxv. Egeria ! sweet creation of some heart Which found no mortal resting-place so fair As thine ideal breast : whate'er thou art Or wert, — a young Aurora of the air, The nympholepsy of some fond despair : Or, it might be, a beauty of the earth, Who found a more than common votary there Too much adoring; whatsoe'er thy birth, Thou wert a beautiful thought, and softly bodied forth. -238 (Hutdc Sarold^ rilflvimagc. CXVI. The mosses of thy fountain still are sprinkled With thine Elysian water-drops ; the face Of thy cave-guarded spring, with years un- wrinkled, Reflects the meek-eyed genius of the place, Whose green wild margin now no more erase Art's works ; nor must the delicate waters sleep, Prison'd in marble, bubbling from the base Of the cleft statue, with a gentle leap "The rill runs o'er, and round, fern, flowers, and ivy creep, cxvi 1. Fantastically tangled ; the green hills Are clothed with early blossoms, through the grass The quick-eyed lizard rustles, and the hills Of summer birds sing welcome as ye pass ■ Flowers fresh in hue, and many in their class, Implore the pausing step, and with their dyes Dance in the soft breeze in a fairy mass : The sweetness of the violet's deep blue eyes, K-iss'd by thebreath of heaven, seems colour d by its skies. CXVIII. Here didst thou dwell, in this enchanted cover, Egeria ! thy all heavenly bosom beating <>Mfo *§MttW$ g itgvimag*. 239 For the far footsteps of thy mortal lover ; The purple Midnight veil'd that mystic meeting With her most starry canopy, and seating Thyself by thine adorer, what befell ? This cave was surely shaped out for the greeting Of an enamour'd Goddess, and the cell Haunted by holy Love — the earliest oracle ! cxix. And didst thou not, thy breast to his re- plying, Blend a celestial with a human heart; And Love, which dies as it was born, in sighing, Share with immortal transports ? could thine art Make them indeed immortal, and impart The purity of heaven to earthly joys, Expel the venom and not blunt the dart — The dull satiety which all destroys — And root from out the soul the deadly weed which cloys ? cxx. Alas ! our young affections run to waste, Or water but the desert ; whence arise But weeds of dark luxuriance, tares of haste Rank at the core, though tempting to the eyes, 24° $hitde llatotiTiei gilgrimag*. Flowers whose wild odours breathe but agonies, And trees whose gums are poison ; such the plants Which spring beneath her steps as Passion flies O'er the world's wilderness, and vainly pants For some celestial fruit forbidden to our wants. cxxi. O Love ! no habitant of earth thou art — An unseen seraph, we believe in thee, — A faith whose martyrs are the broken heart, But never yet hath seen, nor e'er shall see, The naked eye, thy form, as it should be ; The mind hath made thee, as it peopled heaven, Even with its own desiring phantasy, And to a thought such shape and image given, As haunts the unquench'd soul — parch'd — wearied — wrung — and riven. cxxi I. Of its own beauty is the mind diseased, And fevers into false creation : — where, Where are the forms the sculptor's hand hath seized ? In him alone. Can Nature show so fair ? Where are the charms and virtues which we dare Conceive in boyhood and pursue as men, mm* gawrtfl'isi gilflrimagt. 241 The unreach'd Paradise of our despair, Which o'er-informs the pencil and the pen, And overpowers the page where it would bloom again ? CXXIII. Who loves, raves— 'tis youth's frenzy— but the cure Is bitterer still ; as charm by charm unwinds Which robed our idols, and we see too sure Nor worth nor beauty dwells from out the mind's Ideal shape of such ; yet still it binds The fatal spell, and still it draws us on, Reaping the whirlwind from the oft-sown winds ; The stubborn heart, its alchemy begun, Seems ever near the prize — wealthiest when most undone. cxxiv. We wither from our youth, we gasp away — Sick — s i c k ; unfound the boon, unslaked the thirst, Though to the last, in verge of our decay, Some phantom lures, such as we sought at first — But all too late,— so are we doubly curst. Love, fame, ambition, avarice — 'tis the same — Each idle, and all ill, and none the worst— 16 242 OtMe gat'0ld^ gUgvimage, For all are meteors with a different name, And death the sable smoke where vanishes the flame. cxxv. Few — none — find what they love or could have loved : Though accident, blind contact, and th» strong Necessity of loving, have removed Antipathies — but to recur, ere long, Envenom'd with irrevocable wrong; And Circumstance, that unspiritual god And miscreator, makes and helps along Our coming evils with a crutch-like rod, Whose touch turns hope to dust — the dust we all have trod. cxxvi. Our life is a false nature — 'tis not in The harmony of things, — this hard decree, This uneradicable taint of sin, This boundless upas, this all-blasting tree, Whose root is earth, whose leaves and branches be The skies which rain their plagues on men like dew — Disease, death, bondage, all the woes we see — And worse, the woes we see not — which throb through The immedicable soul, with heart-aches ever new. €MW 'gmoWg g itgrimaa*. 243 CXXVII. Yet let us ponder boldly — 'tis a base Abandonment of reason to resign Our right of thought — our last and only place Of refuge ; this, at least, shall still be mine : Though from our birth the faculty divine Is chain'd and tortured — cabin'd, cribb'd, confined, And bred in darkness, lest the truth should shine Too brightly on the unprepared mind, The beam pours in, for time and skill will couch the blind. CXXVIII. Arches on arches ! as it were that Rome, Collecting the chief trophies of her line, Would build up all her triumphs in one dome, Her Coliseum stands ; the moonbeams shine As 'twere its natural torches, for divine Should be the light which streams here, to illume This long explored but still exhaustless mine Of contemplation ; and the azure gloom Of an Italian night, where the deep skies assume cxxix. Hues which have words, and speak to ye of heaven, Ploats o'er this vast and wondrous monu- ment. 244 8WM* &wMfr Sitgtiti»ge f And shadows forth its glory. There is given Unto the things of earth, which Time hath bent, A spirit's feeling, and where he hath leant His hand, but broke his scythe, there is a power And magic in the ruin'd battlement, For which the palace of the present hour^ Must yield its pomp, and wait till ages are its dower. cxxx. O Time ! the beautifier of the dead, Adorner of the ruin, comforter And only healer when the heart hath bled — Time! the corrector where our judgments err, The test of truth, love,— sole philosopher, For all beside are sophists from thy thrift, Which never loses though it doth defer— Time, the avenger ! unto thee I lift My hands, and eyes, and heart, and crave of thee a gift : cxxxi. Amidst this wreck, where thou hast made a shrine And temple more divinely desolate, Among thy mightier offerings here are mine, Ruins of years— though few, yet full of fate If thou hast ever seen me too elate, Hear me not ; but if calmly I have borne mtiWt gatotd'* gilgrimag*. 245 Good, and reserved my pride against the hate Which shall not whelm me, let me not have worn This iron in my soul in vain — shall they not mourn ? CXXXII. And thou, who never yet of human wrong Left the unbalanced scale, great Nemesis ! Here where the ancient paid thee homage long — ■ Thou, who didst call the Furies from the abyss, And round Orestes bade them howl and hiss For that unnatural retribution — just, Had it but been from hands less near — in this Thy former realm, I call thee from the dust I Dost thou not hear my heart ?— Awake ! thou shalt, and must. cxxxiii. It is not that I may not have incurr'd For my ancestral faults or mine the wound I bleed withal, and had it been conferr'd With a just weapon, it had flow'd unbound. But now my blood shall not sink in the ground ; To thee I do devote \t—thou shall take The vengeance, which shall yet be sought and found, 246 Child* gtaroia'0 gitflrimnflf. Which if /have not taken for the sake But let that pass — I sleep, but thou shalt yet awake. cxxxiv. And if my voice break forth, 'tis not that now I shrink from what is suffer'd : let him speak Who hath beheld decline upon my brow, Or seen my mind's convulsion leave it weak - y But in this page a record will I seek. Not in the air shall these my words disperse, Though I be ashes : a far hour shall wreak The deep prophetic fulness of this verse, And pile on human heads the mountain of my curse ! ex xxv. That curse shall be Forgiveness. — Have I not — Hear me, my mother Earth ! behold it. Heaven ! — Have I not had to wrestle with my lot ? Have I not suffer'd things to be forgiven ? Have I not had my brain sear'd, my heart riven, Hopes sapp'd, name blighted, Life's life lied away ? And only not to desperation driven, Because not altogether of such clay As rots into the souls of those whom I survey. CXXXVI. From mighty wrongs to petty perfidy Have I not seen what human things could do? From the loud roar of foaming calumny To the small whisper of the as paltry few And subtler venom of the reptile crew, The Janus glance of whose significant eye, Learning to lie with silence, would seem true, And without utterance, save the shrug or sigh, Deal round to happy fools its speeches obloquy* cxxxvii. But I have lived, and have not lived in vain : My mind may lose its force, my blood its fire, And my frame perish even in conquering. pain, But there is that within me which shall tire Torture and Time, and breathe when I ex* pire : Something unearthly, which they deem not of, Like the remember'd tone of a mute lyre, Shall on their soften'd spirits sink, and move- In hearts all rocky now the late remorse of love. cxxxvin. The seal is set. — Now welcome, thou dread power ! Nameless, yet thus omnipotent, which here 248 (ThiUlc Turotd\$ gilgvittftgt. Walk'st in the shadow of the midnight hour With a deep awe, yet all distinct from fear: Thy haunts are ever where the dead walls rear Their ivy mantles, and the solemn scene Derives from thee a sense so deep and clear That we become a part of what has been, And grow unto the spot, all-seeing but unseen. cxxxix. And here the buzz of eager nations ran, In murmur'd pity, or loud-roar'd applause, As man was slaughter'd by his fellow-man And wherefore slaughter'd ? wherefore, but because Such were the bloody Circus' genial laws, And the imperial pleasure. — Wherefore not ? What matters where we fall to fill the maws Of worms — on battle-plains or listed spot? Both are but theatres where the chief actors rot. CXL. I see before me the Gladiator lie : He leans upon his hand — his manly brow Consents to death, but conquers agony, And his droop'd head sinks gradually low^ And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, Like the first of a thunder-shower ; and now (£UMt latttW*; gj itgrimap. 249 The arena swims around him : he is gone, Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hail'd the wretch who won. CXLI. He heard it, but he heeded not — his eyes Were with his heart, and that was far away; He reck'd not of the life he lost nor prize, But where his rude hut by the Danube lay, There were his young barbarians all at play, There was their Dacian mother — he, their sire, Butcher'd to make a Roman holiday — All this rush'd with his blood — Shall he ex- pire, And unavenged ? — Arise ! ye Goths, and glut your ire. CXLII. But here, where murder breathed her bloody stream ; And here, where buzzing nations choked the ways, And roar'd or murmur'd like a mountain- stream Dashing or winding as its torrent strays ; Here, where the Roman million's blame or praise Was death or life, the playthings of a crowd, My voice sounds much — and fall the stars, faint rays 25° (fuudc Starolft'* giigrimaac On the arena void — seats crush'd, walls bow'd, And galleries, where my steps seem echoes strangely loud. CXLIII. A ruin — yet what ruin ! from its mass Walls, palaces, half-cities, have been rear'd ; Yet oft the enormous skeleton ye pass, And marvel where the spoil could have arx pear'd. Hath it indeed been plunder'd, or but clear'd ? Alas ! developed, opens the decay, When the colossal fabric's form is near'd ; It will not bear the brightness of the day, Which streams too much on all, years, man, have reft away. CXLIV. But when the rising moon begins to climb Its topmost arch, and gently pauses there ; When the stars twinkle through the loops of time, And the low night-breeze waves along the air, The garland-forest, which the gray walls wear, Like laurels on the bald first Caesar's head; When the light shines serene, but doth not glare, Whittle itoldfa gitcjrima^ 251 Then in this magic circle raise the dead : Heroes have trod this spot — 'tis on their dust ye tread. CXLV. " While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand ; When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall ; And when Rome falls — the World." From our own land Thus spake the pilgrims o'er this mighty wall In Saxon times, which we are wont to call Ancient ; and these three mortal things are still On their foundations, and unalter'd all; Rome and her Ruin past Redemption's skill. The World, the same wide den — of thieves, or what ye will. CXLVI. Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime — Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods, From Jove to Jesus — spared and blest by time ; Looking tranquillity while falls or nods Arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods His way through thorns to ashes — glorious dome ; Shalt thou not last ? — Time's scythe and tyrants' rods Shiver upon thee — sanctuary and home Of art and piety — Pantheon : — pride of Rome t 252 (L'luUlc IhvoUT:* gHgrimage. CXLVII. Relic of nobler days, and noblest arts ! Despoil'd yet perfect, with thy circle spreads A holiness appealing to all hearts — To art a model ; and to him who treads Rome for the sake of ages, Glory sheds Her light through thy sole aperture ; to those Who worship, here are altars for their beads ; And they who feel for genius may repose Their eyes on honour'd forms, whose busts around them close. CXLVIII. There is a dungeon, in whose dim drear light What do I gaze on ? Nothing : Look again ! Two forms are slowly shadow'd on my sight — Two insulated phantoms of the brain : It is not so : I see them full and plain — An old man, and a female young and fair, Fresh as a nursing mother, in whose vein The blood is nectar : — but what doth she there, With her unmantled neck, and bosom white and bare ? CXLIX. Full swells the deep pure fountain of young life, Where on the heart and from the heart we took (E\\\Wt ^MM'g gilgriwafl*. 253 Our first and sweetest nurture, when the wife, Blest into mother, in the innocent look, Or even the piping cry of lips that brook No pain and small suspense, a joy perceives Man knows not, when from out its cradled nook She sees her little bud put forth its leaves — What may the fruit be yet ? — I know not — Cain was Eve's. CL. But here youth offers to old age the food, The milk of his own gift : — it is her sire To whom she renders back the debt of blood Born with her birth. No ; he shall not expire While in those warm and lovely veins the fire Of health and holy feeling can provide Great Nature's Nile, whose deep stream rises higher Than Egypt's river : — from that gentle side Drink, drink and live, old man ! heaven's realm holds no such tide. CLI. The starry fable of the milky way Has not thy story's purity ; it is A constellation of a sweeter ray, And sacred Nature triumphs more in this Reverse of her decree, than in the abyss 254 tfhUde giarold^ gtlgnmage. Where sparkle distant world : — Oh, holiest nurse ! No drop of that clear stream its way shall miss To thy sire's heart, replenishing its source With life, as our freed souls rejoin the uni- verse. CLII. Turn to the Mole which Hadrian rear'd on high,* Imperial mimic of old Egypt's piles, Colossal copyist of deformity, Whose travell'd phantasy from the far Nile's Enormous model, doom'd the artist's toils To build for giants, and for his vain earth, His shrunken ashes, raise this dome: How smiles The gazer's eye with philosophic mirth, To view the huge design which sprung from such a birth ! CLIII. But lo ! the dome — the vast and wondrous dome, To which Diana's marvel was a cellf — Christ's mighty shrine above his martyr's tomb ! I have beheld the Ephesian's miracle — Its columns strew the wilderness, and dwell * The Castle of St. Angelo. t St. Peter's. , u u The mother of a moment, o er thy boy, Death hush'd that pang for ever : with thee fled . , . The present happiness and promised joy Which fill'd the imperial isles so full it seem d to cloy. 262 (tfhilde gurold^ gilgrimagf. CLXIX. Peasants bring forth in safety. — Can it be, O thou that wert so happy, so adored ! Those who weep not for kings shall weep for thee, And Freedom's heart, grown heavy, cease to hoard, Her many griefs for One; for she had pour'd Her orisons for thee, and o'er thy head Beheld her Iris. — Thou, too, lonely lord, And desolate consort — vainly wert thou wed ! The husband of a year ! the father of the dead ! CLXX. Of sackcloth was thy wedding garment made ; Thy bridal's fruit is ashes ; in the dust The fair-hair'd Daughter of the Isles is laid, The love of millions ! How we did entrust Futurity to her ! and, though it must Darken above our bones, yet fondly deem'd Our children should obey her child, and bless'd Her and her hoped-for seed, whose promise seem'd Like star to shepherds' eyes ; 'twas but a meteor beam'd. #hilte !&}mW$ gilgnma&e. 263 CLXXI. Woe unto us, not her : for she sleeps well : The fickle reek of popular breath, the tongue Of hollow counsel, the false oracle, Which from the birth of monarchy hath rung Its knell in princely ears, till the o'erstrung Nations have arm'd in madness, the strange fate* Which tumbles mightiest sovereigns, and hath flung Against their blind omnipotence a weight Within the opposing scale, which crushes soon or late, — CLXXI 1. These might have been her destiny ; but no, Our hearts deny it : and so young, so fair, Good without effort, great without a foe ; But now a bride and mother — and now there ! How many ties did that stern moment tear ? From thy Sire's to his humblest subject's breast * Mary died on the scaffold; Elizabeth of a broken heart; Charles V. a hermit; Louise XIV. a bank- rupt in means and glory; Cromwell of anxiety; and Napoleon died a prisoner. To these sovereigns a long but superfluous list might be added of names equally illustrious and unhappy. 264 (ThUdc HSfavvW* ^Pilgrimage. Is link'd the electric chain of that despair, Whose shock was as an earthquake's, and opprest The land which loved thee so, that none could love thee best. CLXXIII. Lo, Nemi ! navelFd in the woody hills So far, that the uprooting wind which tears The oak from his foundation, and which spills The ocean o'er its boundary, and bears Its foam against the skies, reluctant spares The oval mirror of thy glassy lake ; And, calm as cherish'd hate, its surface wears A deep cold settled aspect nought can shake, Ml coil'd into itself and round, as sleeps the snake. CLXXIV. And near Albano's scarce divided waves Shine from a sister valley ; — and afar The Tiber winds, and the broad ocean laves The Latian coast where sprung the Epic war, " Arms and the Man," whose reascending star Rose o'er an empire ; — but beneath thy right ^fcitde 1&M8U'# fitgtimage. 265 Tully reposed from Rome ; and where yon bar Of girdling mountains intercepts the sight, The Sabine farm was till'd, the weary bard's delight. CLXXV. But I forget, — My Pilgrim's shrine is won, And he and I must part, — so let it be, — His task and mine alike are nearly done ; Yet once more let us look upon the sea : The midland ocean breaks on him and me, And from the Alban Mount we now behold Our friend of youth, that ocean, which when we Beheld it last by Calpe's rock unfold Those waves, we follow'd on till the dark Euxine roll'd CLXXVI. Upon the blue Symplegades : long years — Long, though not very many — since have done Their work on both ; some suffering and some tears Have left us nearly where we had begun : Yet not in vain our mortal race hath run, We have had our reward — and it is here ; That we can yet feel gladden'd by the sun, And reap from earth, sea, joy almost as dear As if there were no man to trouble what is clear. 266 Child* garotd'jsi gitgrimage. CLXXVII. Oh ! that the Desert were my dwelling place, With one fair Spirit for my minister, That I might all forget the human race, And, hating no one, love but only her ! Ye Elements ! in whose ennobling stir I feel myself exalted — can ye not Accord me such a being ? Do I err In dreaming such inhabit many a spot? Though with them to converse can rarely be our lot. CLXXVIII. There is a pleasure in the pathless woods, There is a rapture on the lonely shore, There is society where none iutrudes, By the deep Sea, and music in its roar : I love not man the less, but Nature more, From these our interviews, in which I steal From all I maybe, or have been before, To mingle with the Universe and feel What I can ne'er express, yet cannot all con- ceal. CLXXIX. Roll on, thou deep and dark blue Ocean- roll ! Ten thousands fleets sweep over thee in vain ; Man marks the earth with ruin — his control mi&t Statotd^ gitgrimag*. 267 Stops with the shore ; — upon the watery plain The wrecks are all thy deed, nor doth remain A shadow of man's ravage, save his own, When for a moment, like a drop of rain, He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan, Without a grave, unknell'd, uncoffin'd, and un- known. CLXXX. His steps are not upon thy paths, — thy fields Are not a spoil for him, — thou dost arise And shake him from thee ; the vile strength he wields For earth's destruction thou dost all de- spise, . Spurning him from thy bosom to the skies, And send'st him, shivering in thy playful spray And howling, to his gods, where haply lies His petty hope in some near port or bay^ And dashest him again to earth -.—there let him lay. CLXXXI. The armaments which thunderstrike the walls Of rock-built cities, bidding nations quake, And monarchs tremble in their capitals, 268 (&UiW gawW'jBi gilgrimage. The oak leviathans, whose huge ribs make Their clay creator the vain title take Of lord of thee, and arbiter of war ; These are thy toys, and, as the snowy flake, They melt into thy yeast of waves, whicrt mar Alike the Armada's pride, or spoils of Tra- falgar. CLXXXII. Thy shores are empires, changed in all save thee — Assyria, Greece, Rome, Carthage, what are they ? Thy waters washed them power while they were free, And many a tyrant since : their shores obey The stranger, slave, or savage ; their decay Has dried up realms to deserts : not so thou, Unchangeable save to thy wild waves' play- Time writes no wrinkle on thine azure brow — Such as creation's dawn beheld, thou rollest now. CLXXXIII. Thou glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form Glasses itself in tempests ; in all time, $iiilfo itawalA'j* §> itgwmage. 269 Calm or convulsed — in breeze, or gale, or storm, Icing the pole, or in the torrid clime Dark heaving ; — boundless, endless, and sublime — The image of Eternity — the throne Of the Invisible ; even from out thy slime The monsters of the deep are made ; each zone Obeys thee ; thou goest forth, dread, fathom- less, alone. clxxxiv. And I have loved thee, Ocean ! and my joy Of youthful sports was on thy breast to be Borne like thy bubbles, onward : from a boy I wanton'd with thy breakers — they to me Were a delight ; and if the freshening sea Made them a terror — 'twas a pleasing fear, For I .was as it were a child of thee, And trusted to thy billows far and near, And laid my hand upon thy mane — as I do here. CLXXXV. My task is done — my song hath ceased — my theme Has died into an echo : it is fit The spell should break of this protracted dream. The torch shall be extinguished which hath lit 270 (Child* ^urold^ JUgrimagc. My midnight lamp — and what is writ, is writ — Would it were worthier ! but I am not now That which I have been — and my visions flit Less palpably before me— and the glow Which in my spirit dwelt is fluttering, faint, and low. CLXXXVI. Farewell ! a word that must be, and hath been — A sound which makes us linger ; — yet, fare- well ! Ye, who have traced the Pilgrim to the ne Which is his last, if in your memories dwell A thought which once was his, if on ye swell A single recollection, not in vain He wore his sandal-shoon and scallop-shell ; Farewell ! with him alone may rest the pain, U such there were — with you, the moral of his strain. THE END. Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide Treatment Date: March 2009 PreservationTechnologies A WORLD LEADER IN COLLECTIONS PRESERVATION 111 Thomson Park Drive Cranberry Township, PA 16066 (724)779-2111