■ Stf** CHILCOTT'S DESCRIPTIVE HISTORY OF BRISTOL, Ancient attTJ Jj¥tottem; OR, A GUIDE TO BRISTOL, CLIFTON, & THE HOTWELLS : WITH TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OP THE NEIGHBOURING VILLAGES, ETC, Illustrated with Maps, Copper and Wood Engravings. SEVENTH EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS, Equestrian Statue of King William III. in Queen Square. PUBLISHED BY J. CHILCOTT, 20, CLARE STREET, BRIST' O^rrr^^- " -■ IB A wo ? Broad Street, & St. Lawrence, > ! Thursday, St. John,(old Chur.) Bedminster, St. John, the Evan. King's Parade, St. Luke, .. |Nr.CottonFac. St " Mark, the > College Green Mayor's Chap. $ St. Michael, .. St. Mary-le-Port, Incumbents, 4"C. St. Matthew, . . St. Mary Redcliff, St. Nicholas, .. Orphan Asylum, Redland Chapel, St. Philip & Jacob, St. Paul," St. Paul, St. Peter, .'. St. Stephen, .. St. Thomas, Trinity, Trinity, . ! Temple, St.'Werburgh, .. Michael's Hill, Mary-le-portSt. Wednesday, Kingsdown, Wednesday, Redcliff Street Nicholas St. Hook's Mills, Upper Redland Jacob Street, Wednesday, Portland Squ. Bedminster, Wednesday, Peter Street, Steph. Avenue Friday, Thomas Street, Friday, Hotwell Road, Wednesday, West Street, Temple Street. Thursday, Corn Street, Wednesday, Districts constituted under the ( The Right Rev. the Lord < Bp. of Glo'ster& Bristol, I Very Rev. J. Lamb, D.D. C rev. [Dean. \ H. Rogers, M.A. Vicar. W. Millner, M.A. Vicar. > J. Taylor, M.A. Minister. C. Evanson, M. A., P. Cur. > J. J. Coles, M.A. Minister. W. Knight, MA. Chaplain. J. Strickland, M.A. Rector. > Rev. J. Hensman, M. A. J. Taylor, M.A. Minister. R. L. Hopper, M.A. Vicar. \J. H. Woodward, M.A. 3 J. B. Riddle, M.A. Curate. I G. N. Barrow, M.A. Red. M. R. Whish, M.A. Vicar. H. G. Walsh, M.A. Minister. S. E. Day, Incumbent. Chaplain to the Mayor. W. Knight, M.A. Rector. > J. Marshall, M.A. Rector. I J .B.Clifford,M.A./ncwm. M. R. Whish, M.A. Vicar. G. N. Barrow, M.A. Vicar. H. Livius, M.A. Chaplain. R. C arrow, M.A. Vicar. I S. E. Day, M.A. Vicar. \ R.M.Phelps,M.A. Curate. G.P.Bullock, M.A.Minister. | H. G. Eland, M.A. Min. H. C. Brice, M.A. Rector. Ic. Buck, M.A. Rector. I M.R. Whish, M.A. Vicar* § W. Seaton, Curate. \ H. Allen, M.A. Minister. A. Rogers, M.A. Minister. \ Fountain Elwin, Vicar. 5 L. K Cogan, B.A. Curate. I J. Hall, B.D. Rector. Endowment Act, see page 193. BlggJEFTUT® CHAFBLg, &©„ Page. 209 Name of Chapel. Wesleyan, Where Situate. 210 211 210 211 210 211 »> 29S 212 211 214 » 215 213 215 » 209 215 212 216 - - \ : :: * Independent, j - " I - • \ „ Hope CountessofHunt ingdon. Tabernacle, . . WelshCalvinistic I Welsh & English, | Baptist, ** 5 • :: \ 207 :; :: * » Welsh Moravian, .. 5 Friends'Meeting,i Seamen's Floating, Unitarian, . . Jews* Synagogue j Roman Catholic, Old King Street, Tuesday & Thursday, Old Market Street, Wednesday & Friday, Portland St. Kingsd. Wednesday & Friday, Langton St. Cathay, Wednesday & Friday, Shim Lane, Bedmin. Tuesday, Hot well Road, Grenville PI. Hotw. Baptist Mills, Bridge Street, Tuesday, Brunswick Square, Thursday, Castle Green, Tuesday & Thursday, Anvil St. St. Philip's, Kingsland Rd. Dings Zion, Coronation Rd. Gideon,Newf.landSt. Highbury, Cotham, Chapel Hill, Hotwell Tuesday & Thursday, Lodge Street, Tuesday & Thursdav, Penn Street, Mond.Wed.Fri.&Sat. Broadmead, Wednesday, Lower Castle St. Wei. English, Broadmead, Tuesday & Thursday, Old King Street, Thursday, Counter Slip, Monday & Wednesd. Thrissel Street, Pithay, Monday & Wednesd. Gt. George St. Pk. St Wednesday, St. Augustine's Place, Upper Maudlin St. Upper Maudlin St. Wednesdays, Rosemary Street, Tuesday and Friday, Grove, Lewin's Mead, Temple St. Friday, Sunset, Saturday, Trenchard Street, 9, End Park PI. Clift. 9, 'St. Mary, Au gust. Back Times of Service. Ministers. j (Various.) \ - > REVERENDS 3 H. I. Roper. > T. Haynes. I J. Jack. J.Tayler. T. E. Thoresby. G. Wood. A. Stone. D. Thomas. > W. Gregory. >W. Lucy. >( Various.) } - > W. Jones. J E. Giles. I T. S. Crisp. | G. H. Davis. T. Winter. W. H. Fuller. ^ E. Probert. JH. Craik. tC. Miiller. C Various.) >J. Cunow. |r Various.) G. Armstrong. V — Green. E. Medcalfe. T. Macdonald. P. O'Farrel. POST-OFFICE, BRISTOL, THOMAS TODD WALTON, Jun. Esq. POSTMASTER. THE DELIVERIES. First Delivery— at 7h. a.m. comprises letters (per Pembroke Mail) from South Wales ; also (per first London Railway Mail) from London and the line of road east and south of England, Bath, &c. ; also from the Mediterranean, Portugal, and the East and West Indies, (per first Bristol and Exeter Railway Mail) from Exeter and south and west of England. Second Delivery — at 7h. 30m. a.m. comprises letters (per first North Mail) from Scotland, Ireland, Isle of Man, Liverpool, Manchester, Bir- mingham, North Wales, Cheltenham, Worcester, Gloucester, &c. ; also from North America, (per Southampton Mail) from Southampton, Salisbury, Bath, Keynsham, Brislington, &c. Third Delivery— at 2h. p.m. comprises letters (per Hereford Mail) from Middle Counties of Wales, Monmouth, Chepstow,Westbury-on-Trym, &c. Fourth Delivery— at 3h. 30m. p.m. comprises letters (per second Lon- don Railway Mail) from London and southern and eastern parts of England, Bath, &c. also from France, the Continent of Europe, &c. Fifth Delivery— at 5h. p.m. comprises letters (per second North Mail) from Liverpool, Birmingham, Worcester, Gloucester, Cheltenham, &c. Sixth Delivery— at 7h. p.m. comprises letters (per second Bristol and Exeter Railway Mail) from Falmouth, Plymouth, Exeter, south-western parts of England, Taunton, Bridgwater, Highbridge, Weston-super-Mare, &c; (per Bath and Bitton Mail) from Bath, St. George's, Gloucestershire, Bitton, Hanham, Willsbridge, &c. (per Swansea Mail) from southern parts of Wales. By Letter Carriers. — Three deliveries daily, commencing about 8h. a.m., 3h. 30m. p.m., and 7h. p.m. Town letters posted before 7h. a.m. are included in the first delivery; posted before 2h. 15m. p.m. in the second delivery; and before 5h. 30m. p.m. in the third delivery. * # * When any delay occurs in the arrivals of the Mails, a corresponding vne must unavoidably take place in the commencement of the deliveries. The office for the delivery of letters to be called for is closed at lOh. p.m. The office is also closed for the receipt of paid letters at lOh. p.m. The Returned Letters and Overcharge Offices are open from lOh. a.m. till 3h. p.m.; the Money Order Office from lOh. a.m. to 4h. p.m. THE POST-OFFICE RECEIVING HOUSES. Situations. Receivers. Letters sent to Gen. Office at A.M. Park Street G. Pearce 5 . •Clifton R. Hazard 5 . Hotwells, Dowry Square.. W. Fox 5 . Kingsdown, Alfred Place.. T.Adams 5 . St. Philip's, West Street.. T. Hillman 5 . Store's Croft E. Ryland 5 . Cathay J.Atkins 5 . Bedminster East, Ditto .. J. Huxtahle ... . 6 . Stapleton Road Lucy Chinn .... .. Redland, Durdham Down.. W. Newman .. 6— 11.. * Clifton is a " Sub-Office*' to Bristol, and pays and draws Money Orders. P.M. P.M. 4 .. 9 4 .. 9 4 .. 9 4 .. 9 4 .. 9 4 .. 9 4 .. 9 4 .. 6 4 .. 4 .. 8 CHILCOTT's BRISTOL GUIDE. THE DESPATCHES. The following are the hours for the daily Arrivals and Departures of the Mails :— Time till Letters should which Lettere MAILS. RECEIVED AT DESPATCHED be Posted are received AT before with a Fee of Id.* H. M. H. M. H. M. H. M. Exeter midnight. 1 — 15 A.M. 6— A.M. 10— P.M. 9—15 9—45 8—10 A.M. 6—40 P.M. 7—10 5—40 7 40 North and Irish 6—10 Southampton 6-35 A.M. 5—35 P.M. 4—35 5- 5 Birmingham and Bristol.. 4 — P.M. 10—30 A.M. 9—30 10— Hereford noon. 3—20 P.M. 2—20 2—50 Second London 2—40 p M. 10— P.M. 9—15 9—45 Devonport 5 — 55 P.M. 7—30 A.M. 7— 7— Bath and Bitton 6 — P.M. 7—30 A.M. 7— 7— Swansea 4—50 P.M. 7—50 A.M. 7— 7—20 Pembroke 10—45 P.M. 2— A.M. midnight. >i . r Clevedon & Portshd. 4 — A.M. ditto. "§ ! ) Thornbury s a* / * r0Q -^ cton > 5— 30 P.M. 7—30 A.M. 7— 7— <2 (.Partington Gurney.. ) Bristol 1st delivery 7—30 A.M. 7— 7— Bristol 2nd delivery 3—15 P.M. 2—15 2—45 Bristol 3rd delivery 6—30 P.M. 5-30 6— * After which they are received as late as possible previous to the despatch with Fee of 3d. FOREIGN MAILS.— Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon, Cadiz, Gibraltar, every wee | c ._ Malta, Greece, Ionian Islands, once a fortnight. — Egypt and the East Indies, every month. — Jamaica, Leeward Islands, and La Guayra, 1st day of every month. — Jamaica, Leeward Islands, and Carthagena, J 6th day of every month. — America, 3rd and 18th in every month, except December, January, and February, during which the 3rd only. — Madeira, Brazils, and Buenos Ayres, first Tuesday in every month. — France, daily. — Belgium, Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday. — Holland and Hamburgh, Monday and Thursday. — Sweden, every Monday. — Letters for Spain are forwarded by the Mediterranean Packet, unless directed via France. Newspapers to South America and United States require a postage of 2d. which must be paid in advance. Omnieuses from the Terminus of the Great Western, Bristol and Exeter, and Bristol and Gloucester Railway Companies, go to and come from Clifton, the Hotwells, Cumberland Basin, (from whence sail the various Steam Packets,) all parts of Kingsdown, Stoke's Croft, Montpellier, &c. almost every hour iu the day, from the time the first train starts in the morning till the last train arrives in the evening. The charge for either of the above distances is 6d. for each person There are numerous Cars or Flys privileged by the Company to be within the yard of their Railway Terminus, for the conveyance of passengers. There are several Omnibuses from and to Shirehampton, Henbury, West- bury, &c. daily.— White Lion, Broad Street, and Plume of Feathers, Wine Street, Bristol. There are also Omnibuses or Cobourgs, daily, from and to nearly all the villages surrounding the city, to the distance of several miles. Hackney Coaches and Cars are placed at various stations, and are licensed to ply for hire to the distance of ten miles beyond the city bounds. The charge is for time or distance, at the option of the driver, being Is. per iiile, or Is. 6d. per hour. Three persons are considered the limit of a fare. STEAM NAVXGATION.-COAST£RS. Place. IRELAND. Doblin Cork Waterford WALES. Cardiff FROM CUMBERLAND BASIN. Time of Sailing. Office. Every Friday Steam Nav. Comp. Quay Tuesday and Friday ... Tuesday and Friday . . . ♦Swansea . Aberavon, &c Carmarthen Tenby Milford, Pater, and Haverfordwest .... Newport „ (Screw) .... Chepstow Portshead NORTH DEVON AND CORNWALL. Ilfracombe and Bideford tSt. Ives, Hayle, Pen- "J zance, Helston, Pen- ( ryn, Falmouth,Truro, C Redruth, &c ) Padstow,St.lves,& Hayle St. Ives and Hayle . . LIVERPOOL, calling at Swansea & Milford Monday, Wed. & Friday Tuesday, Thurs. & Sat... Tuesday and Friday .... Thursday and Saturday. . Saturday Friday Tuesday and Friday .... Tuesday Twice every day Daily Daily in Summer Daily in Summer 12, Quay Street Bull Wharf, Redcliff St. Mr.Terrell^S.WelshBack Bull Wharf, &12,Quay St. Bell Avenue, Queen Sq. Steam Nav. Comp. Quay " [Hotwells J.JoneSjRownhamWnarf, Bell Avenue & Bat. Basin J.Jones, Rownham Wharf, „ [Hotwells £ Wednesday & Saturday > General Steam Naviga- ... S tion Company, Quay \ in Summer Friday- Tuesday Friday 5, Narrow Quay 82, Quay Tuesday 2, St. Stephen Street * Steamers cross from Swansea to Ilfracombe and back, Mondays and Wednesdays. + This and the two following steamers call at Lynmouth and Ilfracombe going and coming, if the weather permits. %* Individuals or parties may hire wherries at the Stairs opposite St. Augustine's Parade, or at Prince's Street Bridge, to convey them to Cum- berland Basin any hour in the day; if a single person 6d. — if more than one person 3d. each. Wherries may be also hired at the old Bristol Bridge for Hanham, &c. &c. at moderate charges. PRINCIPAL Bath Hotel, Clifton. Clifton Royal Hotel, Mall. Cumberland & Great Western Hotel, Cumberland Basin. Full Moon, North St., Stoke's Croft George Inn, Temple Gate. Gloucester Hotel, Hotwells. Greyhound Inn & Birmingham Hotel, Broadmead. Montague Tavern, Kingsdown. Royal Western Hotel, College Place, College Green. HOTELS. Rummer Tavern, High Street. Saracen's Head, Temple Gate. Swan Hotel and Commercial House, top of Bridge Street. Talbot Inn, Bath Street. Victoria Temperance Hotel, Corner of Bath Street. White Hart Inn and Commer- cial Tavern, Broad Street. White Lion Inn and British Coffee House, Broad Street. York Hotel, Dowry Square. CHILCOTT S BRISTOL GUIDE. BASTES. Bristol Banks. Situation. Bank of England Branch, Broad Street, Baillie, Ames, and Co.* Corn Street, National Prov. Bank of England, 46, High Street, Miles, Harford, Battersby, & Co. Corn Street, Stuckey's Banking Company, { ^I'^g j West of England and South > p v >, n „ a ~ „, c . _. TT „.„ Wales District Bank, $ Exchange, Corn St. Glyn, Halhfax, & Co. * The original firm of this establishment, formed in 1750, was Mr. Isaac Elton, Mr. Harford Lloyd, Mr. William Miller, Mr. Thomas Knox, and Mr. Hale; Mr. Edye was their prin- cipal clerk. At that time there were only two banking houses out of London. Lond. Correspondents* Bank of England. Grote, Prescott, & Co. Barnett,Hoares,& Co. • Robarts, Curtis, & Co. SAVINGS BANK, St. Stephen's Avenue. No. of Depositors. classification. £ s. d. 5007 Depositors, whose respective balances on > « OA . . nnn , m Nov. 20, 1845, with Int. did not exceed \ £20 each ' 34 > 990 J 6 2508 were above £20 and not exceeding £50 ditto, 8,414 7 6 1342 Ditto £50 ditto £100 ditto, 94,273 5 4 459 Ditto £100 ditto £150 ditto, 55,189 8 9 334 Ditto £J50 ditto £200 ditto, 57,554 4 2 36 were above £200 ditto, 7,782 6 11 9686 £328,203 14 2 62 Charitable Societies 4,728 3 7 79 Friendly Societies 14,348 3 9 9827 £347,280 1 6 NEWSPAPERS. Felix Farley's Bristol Journal, Saturday, . . Conservative. The Bristol Mirror, Saturday, . . Conservative. The Bristol Times, Saturday, .. Conservative. The Bristol Mercury, ..,. Saturday, .. Liberal. The Bristol Gazette, Wednesday Even. Liberal. Great Western Advertiser, Saturday, . . Commercial, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, MARKETS <*cc. EXCHANGE— described p. 228. The MARKETS.— Behind the last-mentioned building are the principal Markets, named the High Street and Nicholas b CHILCOTT S BRISTOL GUIDE. Street Markets. There is also a Market in Union Street. The whole of them are abundantly supplied, and are kept very clean. In the High Street Market are three arcades, occupied by farmers, for the sale of butter, cheese, poultry, eggs, bacon, &c. every Wednesday and Saturday. The arcade in front of the south of the Exchange is termed the Gloucestershire Market ; that to the west is called the Somersetshire Market. The other, known by the name of the Eastern Arcade, is on the left, enter- ing from High Street. The butchers exhibit their meat in eight rows, made of wood, and covered in from the heat, wet, &c. by overhanging wood tops ; in front of which vegetables and fruit of every description are arranged for sale. St. Nicholas Street Market is very commodious, and com- pletely covered in. It is occupied by butchers and farmers, with meat, poultry, &c. on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The market in Union Street is only open for the sale of butchers' meat on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but is supplied with Fish every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Shops also are open for the sale of Fish on the Welsh Back, Bridge Street, Baldwin Street, and at Clifton, every day in the week, and are well supplied. There is a building on the Welsh Back, opposite King Street, containing offices for the Water Bailiff and Corn Meter, and also for the sale of poultry, &c. imported from Wales. The Market for Corn and Flour is in the Exchange, under the piazza, where each corn factor has a depository to contain his samples, &c. The Cheese Market, leading from Maryport Street to Wine Street, is held every Wednesday and Friday. The Hay, Straw, and Coal Markets are held every Tues- day and Friday, in that part of St. James's Church-yard where the Fair was formerly held. The New Cattle Market fronts the New Cut, to the left of the iron bridge, leading to Bath, and stands on about four acres of ground. In the centre of the entrance is a neat dwelling- house for the clerk of the market. On either side of the house is a large iron gate, eighteen feet wide. The colonnade, com- mencing from the gate, contains one hundred and forty pillars of Hanham stone. On the left of the entrance, accommodation is provided for seven thousand sheep, two thousand of which may be placed under cover. There is also space for five thousand pigs. Room for three hundred horses is likewise provided, with a trotting course of one hundred and forty yards in length, and thirty feet in width. The remainder is occupied by five compartments for fat beasts, which will hold fifty each ; and ten for lean beasts, holding eighty each. Market day every Thursday, The termini of the Great Western, Bristol and Bir- FAIRS — WALKS. 7 mingham, and Bristol and Exeter Railway Companies adjoin the Cattle Market. FAIRS for Live Stock are held annually, on the 1st of March and the 1st of September, in the Cattle Market; and a prodigi- ous number of cattle are usually brought in on those occasions. It is generally believed that there is more tanned leather sold at the Leather Hall, the first Tuesday in March and September, than at any other place in the kingdom. Fairs were formerly held annually in the Great Gardens, parish of Temple, commencing on the first of March, and on the first of September in St. James's Churchyard, which lasted ten days each ; and were usually attended by the manufacturers of Yorkshire, Lancashire, Staffordshire, and other places, with woollens, cutlery, earthenware, &c. &c. ; but as there are now facilities for frequent intercourse with every part of the king- dom, the necessity for their continuance no longer exists. COMMERCIAL ROOMS— particulars at p. 231. WALKS.— Passing the Post Office [p. 230], St. Wer- burgh's Church [p. 205], the Commercial Rooms [p. 233], and St. Stephen's Church [p. 194], we cross the Swivel Bridge at the bottom of Clare Street, and turning to the left we pass St. Augustine's Church [p. 153], and arrive in Col- lege Green, on the left of which stands CHILCOTT S BRISTOL GUIDE. THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH— described p. 110. And on the opposite side the Mayor's Chapel fp. 1711, {* both buildings,) afterwards to the PHILOSOPHICAL INSTITUTION, Park Street-Contents, $c. particularized p. 237. Leaving the Philosophical Rooms, we proceed up Park Street, and turn up to the left through Charlotte Street, to Brandon Hill, a mountain 250 feet in perpendicular height, of a conic form, and partly covered with bushes. Prom this elevated spot one of the most extensive views of the city and surround- ing neighbourhood may be obtained. On the western slope of this hill a very large and handsome building is erected, in the Tudor style, for the reception of the boys in Queen Elizabeth's hospital [see p. 265]. We return by the north-eastern slope of the hill through Berkeley Square, the houses on three sides of which are handsomely built with freestone ; the other side, which is to the south-east, is not regularly formed, leads us to the Asylum for the Blind [p. 253] and the Bishop's College [p. 261]. We pass on to Tyndall's Park Gate, where are the VICTORIA ROOMS— See description, p. 244. The walk may be extended through Tyndall's Park (turning to the right when arrived at a clump of trees) to St. Michael's Hill and Kingsdown, from either of which charming views open of the city and surrounding scenery. A walk from the bottom of Clare Street, turning to the left, round the Quay to the bottom of High Street, affords an oppor- tunity of witnessing the shipping and unshipping of goods for and from different parts of the commercial world ; whilst the valetudinarian may enjoy a peaceful and contemplative stroll in Queen Square, which" encloses an area of seven acres and a 10 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. half, bordered with, elms, and railed in from the carriage way. In the centre of the Square, upon a high pedestal, is an eques- trian statue of King William III. habited as a Roman Caesar ; his right arm is extended, and in his hand he holds a truncheon, which he points as if he were commanding. It is wholly of cast brass, executed by Rysbrach, and is universally allowed by connoisseurs to be the best equestrian statue in this king- dom : it was set up in the year 1730. Towards its erection the chamber of Bristol contributed £500 ; the remainder was de- frayed by voluntary subscription of the principal inhabitants. Arrived at the bottom of High Street we cross the old Bristol Bridge [p. 30], and pass through Redcliff Street, on our way to the Patent Shot Manufactory [p. 99], and to St. Mary Redcliff Church [p. 128,] ("AHandBook" to which has just been published by the Compiler of this Guide). Leaving this church we proceed to Bedminster Bridge, and turning to the left on the margin of the New River, we arrive at the GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY TERMINUS. Opposite to which is the celebrated Floor Cloth Manufac- tory of Messrs. Hare and Co. [p. 101], and a little further on towards the city is the White Flint Glass Manufactory of Messrs. Ricketts and Co. [p. 100.] We then walk up Temple Street, to inspect Temple Church and its Leaning Tower [p. 198] ; and from thence proceed to the Bristol Pottery [p. 100], near the church, on Temple Backs ; and return over the New Bridge which connects the parish of St. Philip and Jacob with the centre of the city. Another interesting walk is down Broad Street, passing the New Building for the Branch Bank of the Bank of England, and the 11 MEW GUILDHALL— See p. 224. A splendid building, in the Tudor style, through, the archway of St. John's tower, and then turning to the right, we pass through Nelson Street, by the Bridewell, a new and massive building, into Broadmead, where, nearly opposite the Grey- hound Tavern, are the Arcades [p. 232], leading to St. James's Barton; on the right of which is St. James's Square, in a very retired situation, with its area pitched and an obelisk in the centre. In proceeding from thence up Stoke' s Croft, King Square is on the left ; the houses of which are uniform and well built, with an area covered with grass and gravel walk, bordered with young shrubs. In Stoke' s Croft is the Baptist College [p. 262]. Beyond Stoke's Croft, and in a straight line with it, is the Cheltenham Road, with numerous detached villas. A little to the right of which is Montpellier, with a church dedi- cated to St. Andrew [p. 184], recently erected ; and still more to the right, is a new church dedicated to St. Barnabas [p. 183], built for the accommodation of the inhabitants of Wellington Place, &c. Continuing in the latter direction, will bring us to the Orphan Asylum and Chapel [p. 256], and also to the Wesleyan Chapel [p. 209], Baptist Mills, surrounded by a dense population. Returning into the city, we pass into Portland Square, so named in honour of the Duke of Portland, who when it was formed was High Steward of Bristol. This square is built entirely of freestone ; the corners and centres of the fronts of the northern and southern sides are elevated by attic stories, as well as the corner houses of the other sides. In the centre of the eastern side stands a modern church, with a lofty tower, dedicated to St. Paul [p. 182]. The area of this square is nearly 12 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. oval, and enclosed with a palisade of iron, with gates and lamps. We then pass into Brunswick Square, where is the Unitarian Cemetery and an Independent Chapel [p. 211], through Cumberland St., James's Barton, and the Arcades, to the city. Having conducted the visitor to the principal objects of in- terest in the city, we will now attempt to lay before him a de- scription of our beautiful locality. And first of Clifton. The views from different parts of Clifton are perhaps unrivalled; and the classic traveller will discover in the scenery about St. Vincent's Rocks, [p. 299], no inadequate resemblance, though on a small scale, to the celebrated Tempe of Greece. But the curiosity of the visitor will find a source of accumulated enjoy- ment in repairing to the Observatory [p. 312], on Clifton Hill, whence, for the trifling remuneration of one shilling \ he may obtain an excellent Camera Obscura view of all the surrounding objects, together with a splendid prospect of the most distant point an elevated situation and good telescopes can command. On leaving the Observatory, take a walk to the Zoological Gardens [p. 331], which is attractive not only for its select and choice number of animals, birds, &c. but also for the chaste and judicious arrangement of its shrubs, flowers, and gravel walks. From these gardens proceed over Durdham Down, in any direction, to the boundary wall ; and here a profusion of objects burst upon the view in all their interesting variety of wood and dale, river and rock, castle and hill. Immediately underneath is the river Avon, bearing on its surface numerous vessels, containing the varied produce of different parts of the world. On the opposite side are Leigh Woods, and Leigh Court, the princely residence of William Miles, Esq., M. P., [p. 374]. To the left are seen in the distance St. Vincent's Rocks, supporting the pieis which are to sustain the SUSPENSION BRIDGE— See p. 301. WALKS. 13 To the right is Cook's Folly [p. 318], and beyond it Kings- weston [p. 372], Blaize Castle and Woods [p. 346], theMouTH of the Avon, Kingroad, Portshead [p. 382], the Denny Rock, and the Welsh mountains. Be careful in returning not to ap- proach too near the margin of the rocks, as an explosion of the gunpowder used in blasting the rocks may possibly throw some stones on your path. Opposite Boyce's Buildings is the entrance to the Mall, where is the Royal Hotel, a massive and splendid pile of buildings ; in front of which is a large enclosed area, planted with shrubs and evergreens, and on either side of this area is a handsome and extensive row of houses, of the first respecta- bility ; that to the south is called Caledonia Place, and the other to the west is named the West Mall. Proceed from thence to Gloucester Row, facing Clifton Down, passing Lan- caster's Library and Reading Rooms in Portland Place. At the end of Gloucester Row, on the left, is the Bath Hotel, a large family house ; from thence pass Lane and Co.'s Library and Reading Room, Sion Row, to Haggett's Library and Reading Room, Sion Spring [p. 328], and from thence down the Zig-zag walk which leads to the Hotwell House [p. 283] ; and here indeed, when the tide is in full now r , is one of those sublime picturesque views which would baffle the poet or the painter fully to describe. Prom thence proceed between the rows of lime trees to Cumberland Basin, the busy scene of departure or arrival in the various steamers ; or cross Rownham Perry, turn to the right, and walk between the river and the woods to one or other of the clean and neat little cottages situated on its margin, which silently invite the passer by to walk in and take a seat in a shady bower, and if necessary a cup of tea or coffee ; w r alk up the beautiful valley or combe near the cottages, called by some Nightingale Valley, and by others the Happy Valley, to two grand encampments at the top of the woods ; — one is immediately opposite to Clifton and called the Bower Walls ; the other is to the right and called Stoke Leigh Camp. Many pic-nic parties visit this spot in the summer evenings, and whilst the eye in delight ranges upon objects from below and around, the ear is no less charmed with the songs of the nightingale and other warblers of the wood. Another very pleasant walk is from Windsor Terrace along the terrace of the York Crescent (from whence the view is extensive and beautiful,) passing Lane's Library and Reading Rooms, and the Clifton Post Office, to Clifton Church ; opposite which is the house of T. Goldney, Esq., who kindly permits respectable strangers to visit a very interesting artificial grotto in his garden behind the house. The entrance to the grotto is adorned with rich and costly shells, the sides are em= 14 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. bossed with Bristol stones, mundic, metallic ores, and petrifac- tions, and with various other fossils. The roof is finely fretted, and the floor presents a mosaic pavement. In a cavity at the upper end is a statue of Aquarius leaning on an urn ; and front- ing the door is the representation of a lion and lioness in their den. From the grotto is a subterraneous passage to a fine terrace walk, which lays open to view a variety of rich land- scape scenery. Should an extension of the walk be desirable after leaving the grotto, proceed to the nursery gardens of Messrs. Garraway, Mayes, and Co., near King's Parade, Durdham Down, which through the liberality of the proprietors are quite a promenade for respectable visitors, independent of the pleasure to be de- rived from an inspection of a collection of almost every species of forest trees, fruit trees, and evergreens ; hothouse, green- house, flowering shrubs, and herbaceous plants ; auriculas, car- nations, dahlias, hyacinths, pansies, and other flowers in their season, together with seeds of every description. RIDES. — A ride or drive across Durdham Down, through Stoke Bishop [p. 388], passing a fine old mansion, the residence of A. G. H. Battersby, Esq., and Kingsweston Park [p. 372], the residence of P. "W. S. Miles, Esq., M. P., to the "Look Out" at Pen Pold, and Shirehampton ; thence to Blaize Castle and Hamlet, containing ten cottages [p. 346], and through Henbury [p. 369] and Westbury [p. 394], back to Bristol, will very pleasantly employ about three hours in sur- veying a rich variety of natural and diversified scenery. A ride or drive over Durdham Down, through the village of Westbury, to the Old or New Passage, affords the richest scenery. Or, pass through Westbury to Knowl Hill, and thence turning off to the right, through the particularly neat and clean village of Over, to Almondsbury, (whence the river Severn, receiving the rays of the declining sun on a summer's evening, presents a dazzling mirror, almost too powerful for the eye,) and back to Bristol by the Gloucester road, through Horfield, affords a very pleasing variety of rural scenery. The drive across the hills to Portshead, Walton, and Clevedon, commands an extensive view of the Bristol Channel and the opposite coast of Wales. There are many pleasant villages to the east of Bristol ; and to those who enjoy a rich variety of rural scenery, studded with genteel houses surrounded by lawns, parks, and shrubberies, a ride to those villages will be highly gratifying. Proceed then from the central part of the city through Wine Street, Dolphin Street, Peter Street, Castle and the Old Market Streets, to the end of West Street ; pass between Trinity Church and Mrs. Hannah More's Schools [p. 270], down the New Road, — on RIDES. 15 the left of which is the Gloucester County Prison [p. 83], Visit, if agreeable or necessary, the extensive Nursery Gar- dens of Mr. Maule, near the Blackbirds' Inn. About a mile beyond these gardens, on a hill to the left, is Stapleton House, the occasional residence of Sir John Smyth, Bart., of Ashton Court ; and a little further on is the pretty village of Stapleton [p. 387], in which, near the church, stands a Palace op the Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol. A short distance in the advance from Stapleton is Stoke House [p. 388], the residence of a former Dowager Duchess op Beauport. In 1760 the greater part of it was rebuilt, in consequence of its being so much damaged in the civil wars. The woods and grounds belonging to the mansion are very extensive, and beautifully interspersed with statues, temples, and monuments. Further on is the handsome village of Frenchay [p. 367]. Returning from French ay to Downend, there are three noble residences, surrounded with grounds of park-like appearance, called Cleeve Wood, Cleeve Yale, and Cleeve Lodge. We next arrive at Mangotsfield, where there is a handsome house and lawn, known as Hill House ; from thence we proceed to the Fishponds, where is an establishment for those who are labouring under an aberration of intellect, under the care of Dr. Bompas. From the Fishponds we return again to Bristol. Visit the pretty village of Brislington [p. 349], which is about two miles and a half south-east of Bristol, passing the Great Western Railway Terminus, the Bristol Cemetery [p. 246], at Arno's Vale, and numerous detached genteel resi- dences, surrounded with walks, shrubs, &c. The village church and churchyard are well worth attention : in the latter is a tombstone, recording the age of Thomas Newton, who was buried here in 1542, at the age of 153 years. There are numerous other objects worthy the stranger's atten- tion, such as Mr. Miles's pictures at Leigh Court [p. 376], Banwell Caves [p. 341], Cheddar Cliffs [p. 352], Chepstow Castle, Piercefield, and Tintern Abbey [p. 356], Burnham [p. 351], Weston-super-Mare [p. 394], Stanton Drew [p. 385], &c. &c. EXPLANATION fell?IKllM©Ii TMI PLAM ©1? Ma§T©L, CHURCHES. A Cathedral B St. Augustine C St. Mark (Mayor's Chapel) D St. Stephen E St. Werburgh P Late St. Ewen G All Saints H Christ Church, Bristol I St. Mary-le-port K St. Nicholas L St. John M St. Michael N St. James O St. Paul P St. Peter Q St. Philip R Temple S St. Thomas T St. Mary Redcliff U Clifton V Dowry, Chapel of Ease,Clif 'ton W St. George Recently Erected. X Trinity, Hotwells Y St. Matthew, Kingsdown Z St. Paul, Bedminster a Trinity, West-street b St. Andrew, Montpellier c St. Barnabas, Ashley Road d Christ Church, Clifton MISCELLANEOUS CHAPELS. 16 Muller and Craik's, Great George-street 19 Ditto, St. Augustine's-place 22 Roman Catholic 120 Ditto, Under the Bank, St. Augustine's-place 124 Ditto, Park-place, Clifton 26 Unitarian 31 Moravian 40 Providence 42 Friends' 48 Welsh Calvinistic 100 Jews' Synagogue 107 Guinea-street METHODIST CHAPELS. 29 Portland 47 Ebenezer 86 St. Philip 1 1 1 Langton-street 115 Hotwell-road 116 Grenville-place INDEPENDENT CHAPELS. 5 Hope 21 Lady Huntingdon's 39 Newfoundland-street 4 1 Tabernacle 80 Bridge-street 83 Castle Green 85 Welsh 118 Anvil-square 119 Kingsland Road 123 Highbury, Cotham 125 Zion, Bedminster BAPTIST CHAPELS. 44 King-street SO Broadmead 56 Pithay 5)2 Thrissel-street 93 Counterslip 121 Opposite Richmond-terrace J.38 Welsh, Upper Maudlin-st. SCHOOLS. 12 St. Augustine's Charity 13 Red Maid's 14 City Grammar 20 Colston's 24 City 28 Elbridge's 35 Barton 38 Baptist Academy 53 National 84 Castle Green 87 Lancasterian 97 Colston's 99 Temple-street 105 Pile-street 108 Girls* Bishop's College ALMS HOUSES. i Foster's i Spencer's 7 Colston's 7 Unitarian I Tailor's i Bachelor's J St. James's Poor House, (r< moved to Whitson St.) 4 and 55 All Saints' 7 Merchants' i St. Nicholas 5 Alderman Stephens's J Trinity ) Friends' Workhouse > White's 5 Stephens's 1 Burton's J Fry's House of Mercy J Canynge's i Redcliff PRINCIPAL HOTELS, TAVERNS, &e. 3 Bath Hotel 4 Clifton Hotel 6 Gloucester Hotel 15 Royal Western Hotel 30 Montague Tavern 36 Full Moon 49 Greyhound Inn 57 Plume of Feathers 58 White Hart Inn 59 White Lion 77 Rummer Hotel 81 Swan Hotel 102 Bell Inn 103 Talbot Inn PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 1 Hotwell House 2 S ion-spring 7 Lower Rooms 9 Clifton Dispensary 10 Bristol and Clifton Oil Gu Works 1 1 Late Bishop's Palace 17 Philosophical Institution 18 Medical Library 32 Penitentiary 33 Asylum for the Blind 34 Infirmary 52 Bridewell 60 Tailors' Hall 61 Guildhall 62 Council House 64 Commercial Rooms 65 Savings' Bank 66 Merchants' Hall 68 City Library 69 Assembly Room* 70 Excise Office 71 Custom House 73 Theatre Royal 74 Coopers' Hall 76 Back Hall 78 Exchange 79 Post Office 82 St. Peter's Hospital 91 Gloucester Prison 104 Wool Hall 1 10 New Gaol 113 Cattle Market 114 Coal Gas Works 122 Deaf and Dumb Asylum 126 Great Western, Bristol and Exeter, and Bristol and Birmingham Railway Termini, Temple-meads 127 Victoria Rooms, near Park- gate ife; if . t m t\ .^>. ^:f>: i ' «a#- A; / H , ^ A >' l'',w PT.AA 01' * ■' v. .,>." , . r / • ;-_., ' ' ""■-.. , ; " r " ■■ j . - .."'' : ' ■ \ I ANCIENT BRISTOL. Bristol claims the attention of the traveller, not only as an ancient borough, the site of some great historical events, but from its admirable situation and romantic vicinity; the Pyrenees themselves, perhaps, not affording more delightful scenes than are disclosed in certain points on the sides of our Avon, (a stream not unknown to song, since the boy Chatterton mused upon its banks,) especially during the autumnal season, when the grand and gorgeous sun-setting hues appear above, and are reflected by, the broad Severn, " dotted with, glancing sails" — the prospect beautifully terminating with the dis- tant and receding shores of Wales. The origin of the city is hid in great obscurity ; no reasonable inquirer will therefore expect much information respecting the place prior to the descent of the Romans. Tradition states that Brennus, the leader of the Gauls and the conqueror of Rome, b, c. 388, was the first founder of it, and that his c 18 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUTDE. brother Belinus, 1 had some share or assisted in the foundation. Hence their statues even now may be seen, "quaintly carvelled," on the south side of the tower of St. John's Church, in Broad Street ; but when or by whom they were placed there is un- known : they are undoubtedly of high antiquity. It seems that the old Welsh chronicles make repeated mention of an inhabited place correspond- ing in situation with Bristol, under the designation of Caer Oder, which means the city of the chasm, or rupture, translated by the Saxons into Cliftown. Mr. Seyer, in his "Memoirs of Bristol," observes, " Thus was founded a British town on Clifton hill, the original settlement from which Bristol was de- rived ; and when this latter town began to flourish, and the old hill fortress to be neglected, it was easy and natural to call the new town adjoining by the old name, as happened at Salisbury, Win- chester, Colchester, and other places. It is curious to observe how Clifton, after having transferred its inhabitants to Bristol, and continued an unfre- 1 " Our ancestors proceed from race divine ; Prom Brennus and Belinus is our line, Who gave to sovereign Rome such loud alarms." Dryden. Billingsgate, in London, is said to owe its name to Belinus. Like Romulus and Remus, these brothers also quarrelled, but the affair was not so fatal : their mother interfering, desired them to plunge their spears in her bosom, which affecting ap- peal was the means of their reconciliation. ANCIENT BRISTOL. 19 quented village for more than one thousand years, is now receiving back its population, and re-assert- ing its claim to eminence." Caer Brito is another name assigned to Bristol, which signified the painted or embellished city. The Saxons seemed to have regard to the construc- tion of the word as w ell as the sound of the letters, in naming it Bright-stow, the illustrious city; or it may have received the name Caer Brito, the British city, separated as it was from, and so called in distinction to, the Roman city or station Abone, near it: Brit, in the old British, signifying also separated, and Britain, the separated place or isle, according to some. Thus the orthography of the word Brito might pass into Brysto, Brystoe, temp. Ed. Conf., Bryghsto, Bristou, Brightstoe, Bricgstowe, and Brigestow, early in the Saxon times: in 1106 Brigstou; in 1140 Bristowe. — By Florence of Worcester, in 1114, it is called Bric- stow. By Henry of Huntingdon, 1148, Brigestou. In King John's charter, granted in 1190, now extant in Latin in the chamber of Bristol, it is throughout written Bristallum : the Normans wrote it Bristoit. In Domesday Book, and in the ancient charters of Hen. II. and Hen. III., and in other public acts, it is called Bristold, Bristou, or Bristol, though the latter seems to have been most commonly used and is now adopted, the other names being considered obsolete. 20 CHXLCOTT's BRISTOL GUIDE. It appears from Tacitus that there was a Roman camp at Clifton : he says that " Ostorius, about the year of Christ 50, extended his victorious arms upon the banks of the Severn, and secured that river and the Avon." And, in another place, " Ostorius took away the arms of those who were suspected, and restrained those on the rivers Avon and Severn, surrounding them with camps." Nu- merous coins also, of Nero, Domitian, Trajan, and other Roman emperors, have been dug up here, as well as in the neighbourhood of Henbury and Kingsweston hill, from time to time ; together with a curious urn, tiles, bricks, &c. which were unearthed on Clifton Hill, in the year 1783. Of the camp many vestiges remain at this day, on the summit of St. Vincent's rocks, Clifton, (the Caer Oder of Mr. Seyer,) and which, from its commanding and impregnable situation, is well supposed to have been the head-quarters. Having chased those in- habitants of Britain, whom they could not conquer, into Wales, it behoved the invaders to secure the fruitful western borders from the irruption of their expatriated enemies; though some writers affirm that their object was rather to keep down a spirited and troublesome race called the Cangi, 2 supposed 2 The village of Keynsham, on the Bath road, is said to have been a station belonging to the Cangi. In the year 49, two trophies were erected by the emperor Claudius, in commemo- ration of his having annihilated this warlike people. ANCIENT BRISTOL. 21 chiefly to inhabit Somersetshire. In either case, the Romans seem to have remained in this neigh- bourhood in very considerable numbers. About a mile from the Roman camp at Clifton, or station Abone, under the hills, and within its view, was the British town ( Caer BritoJ first laid out at the conflux of the two rivers, Avon and Froom, with which it had the advantage of being surrounded, except on the northern side, where the castle was afterwards erected. The ground on which the city was built rises each way to the centre, forming a pleasant hill, and thus contribut- ing to its cleanliness, as every shower washed down the dirt into the rivers, besides affording afterwards the advantage of making those large gouts or sewers, so convenient to this day. Having pitched upon this commodious situation, the inhabitants divided it into four streets, walling it round after the banks of the rivers, for its greater security and defence, placing a gate at the end of each street, and a church at each corner of the four streets in the centre, where Barrett and others state a cross was erected ; 3 from whence a sure inference may be deduced that those who first laid out those streets were Christians. A wall embattled on the top joined and enclosed the whole, which was not more than a mile in circumference ; 3 As a memorial of gratitude to their beneficent sovereign, Edward III., the corporation of Bristol, in 1373, erected a High %% CHILCOTT S BRISTOL GLIDE. outside of which^ on the north-west side^ the river Froom, before the present Quay was formed, held Cross, in High Street, which, in 1663 was taken down, rebuilt, enlarged, and made higher, for the admission of four new statues. It now stood 39 ft. 3 inches high, and was protected with iron palisades. The cost to the chamber of Bristol for those improvements was £207 ; but whether this sum included the four new statues is not known. The order of their appear- ance was as follows : — North, facing Broad Street — Charles I., John. East, do. Wine Street— Henry VI. Henry III. West, do. Corn Street — Elizabeth, Edward III. 'South, do. High Street — James I., — Edward IY. The Bristol High Cross had been for centuries the spot at which every event of importance, whether of a national or local character, was celebrated. Here was the scene alternately of gaiety and of sorrow — of triumph and of defeat. It was here, in 1399, that Wm. Lord Scroop, Earl of Wiltshire, and Treasurer of England, Sir John Bushy, and Sir Wm. Greene, ministers of Richard II., were beheaded, without trial, by the command of the Duke of Lancaster. They had fled to Bristol Castle for safety ; but after four days' siege they surrendered, and then were decapitated to appease the people. In the following year it was witness to the execution of Lord Spencer, for a conspiracy against Henry IV. — his head was sent to London. In 1487, when Henry VII. came to this city, he was attended by the cor- poration, " dressed in green, to the High Cross, where the clergy met him in their robes, and where was a pageant full of maiden children, richly beseem, and Prudentia had a speech compli- mentary." In 1542, Bristol, by sound of trumpet was proclaimed a bishopric at the High Cross. August 4, 1554, Mary and Philip were proclaimed here as Queen and King of England ; and on March 28, 1603, James I. was proclaimed here by Mr. George Snigge, the recorder, who was accompanied by the mayor and aldermen, in their scarlet robes, and all the city companies, ANCIENT BRISTOL. 02 on its course through the Fish Market, now St. Stephen's Street and Baldwin Street, to St. Nicho- las Port, and there it emptied itself into the Avon in full current, where was the confluence of the two rivers. It drove a mill erected for the use of the town, called Baldwin's Cross Mill, just before its discharge into the Avon. Thus St. Nicholas Street and St. Leonard's Lane, to the south and west, were the boundaries of the old city ; which being continued on to St. John's Gate, through Bell Lane, (in which was a church dedicated to St. Laurence,) joined, on the north, the tower wall in Tower Lane, — containing a strong gate in its centre and another at its upper end at the top of the Pithay, — and extending itself into Wynch Street, also called Wine Street, to Defence Lane, (now Dolphin Street) joined the city wall on the banks of the Avon, to the east, which was fortified with a wall round to St. Nicholas Gate. This formed the internal wall of the under their proper ensigns: — the two sheriffs also, in their scarlet gowns, stood in the High Cross, with his Majesty's picture over their heads, in sight of the populace. In conse- quence of the inconvenience experienced by its being placed in the centre of the city, where the four principal streets met, this beautiful structure was removed in 1736 to College Green. After remaining here, however, but a short time, it was again taken down, and after some time presented to that venerable antiquary, the late Sir Hiehard ColtHoare, Bart., of Stourhead, Wilts, who placed it in his park, where it still remains. 24 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. city; the external, on the northern side, being constructed on the very bank of the Froom, from Froom Gate to Pithay Gate and Newgate, and thence joining the Castle ; and after the course of the Froom was changed for the purpose of forming the Quay in 1247, the outward wall ran in a line from Froom Gate straight along the Quay, where was a tower opposite the present Swivel Bridge at the bottom of Clare Street, to the Marsh Gate, round by King Street to the gate 4 on the Back, the wall there joining the Avon. On the north-east side the wall 5 was moted with a little arm of the Froom, by a channel made by hand quite round till it met the Avon, which skirted 4 Bristol had sixteen gates in 1671, of which the following only now remain, viz. : — the Gateway to the Monastery, for- merly in Lower College Green, — a very interesting specimen of Norman architecture. It was built originally with the Cathedral, in 1142, but repaired and restored, according to Britton, between the years 1480 and 1520. It is much admired for the elegance of its finely curved arch, and the richness of its ornamental carving. In the niches above the arch are the efli- gies of Newland and Elliot. — St. John's Gateway, on which are erected the tower and spire of St. John's Church. — The Tower Gateway, at the end of St. John Street, is a plain arch in the thick old city wall, on which a lofty house is erected. 5 William Wyrcestre states that the walls of the old town were high and massive, and protected by no less than twenty- five large embattled towers, round or square. Two of these towers were remarkable for their superior architecture, viz. Bagod's Tower, built on the wall opposite to the church of the Franciscans, and Vielle's Tower, erected near the Quay. ICHNOGRAPHYc///,, „„.,„,!/ CASTLE ^BRl STOW ANCIENT BRISTOL. XO the city on the south side, where the wall was con- tinued round the Castle; thus completing the forti- fication of the city. On the south side of the wall above described, ran the Avon, which parts Somersetshire from Gloucestershire : and during the Saxon heptarchy, Bristol was reckoned in these two counties or kingdoms: in the former were the Mercians seated; in the latter, or Eedcliff side, the West Saxons. Strong holds, in the more barbarous periods of English history, were objects of the greatest soli- citude to those in power; hence, from the for- midable fortress erected here by the Earls of Gloucester, our city becomes strikingly connected with the history of the country soon after the con- quest. But of Bristol Castle 6 hardly a vestige re- 6 There is no mention of Bristol Castle in Domesday Book. Bristol is there assessed at five hundred marks. The Bishop of Coutance (Godfrey) is said to have built the castle by order of William the Conqueror, about 1069 or 1070. But it was Robert the Consul, or the Eed Earl of Gloucester, illegitimate son of Henry I., who principally deserves the title of founder, for he made vast additions to it, and greatly strengthened it, between the years 1110 and 1138, at which date it was com- pleted, when he received his half-sister, the Empress Maud. The great tower, or keep, was exactly on the model of the Tower of London, not much inferior in its dimensions, and is said to have been faced, at least, with stone brought from Caen in Normandy. It commanded the military possession of the west of England, and was the royal residence whenever the sovereign made a voyage to Dublin, before the conquest of North Wales. 26 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. mains, though, its site can be distinctly ascertained, as being on the eastern side of the town ; the first and corner house of Castle Street on the left, as we enter it from the city, stands on the outward edge of the Castle Ditch, and from thence the fortress extended to the beginning of Old Market Street. The castle occupied the isthmus between the two rivers, along which was the direct and original com- munication between the town and the main part of Gloucestershire, through the Old Market and the Edward II. escaped from incarceration here, but was retaken, and suffered a violent death at Berkeley Castle. Richard II. held his court at Bristol. The castle was divided into two large wards, which occupied three acres of ground. The upper ward was entirely military, and the lower palatial, containing, as in the castles of Carnarvon and Conway, a hall, spacious apartments, and other appendages. The length of the hall was 36 yards, breadth 18. Height of the external walls above the windows, 14 feet ; in a state of ruin. To the left of the royal hall was the royal chamber, 1 7 yards long. There was a slab or table of marble stone, 15 feet in length, at which the king sate, at the upper end of the hall. There were two chapels, one for the garrison, and the other for the king and his court during their residence. The kitchens and offices were very large, and the constable's house in a great tower, now dilapidated, (unde magna pietas surgit!) the more's the pity ! After the reign of Richard II. it fell into rapid decay, from desertion both by the court and garrison : a circumstance which is noticed by Wyrcestre, and farther confirmed by Leland. The spacious site is now known by the names of the Castle Precincts, Castle Street, Castle Green, and Castle Ditch, or Lower Castle Street. ANCIENT BRISTOL. % k present Castle Street ; and the erection of the castle prevented that direct communication, and forced all who came to the town from that part of the country to pass to the right hand by the side of Castle Ditch, and along the Weir, and then by a steep and narrow way under the castle wall, until they entered the city by passing through Newgate, which communicated with the castle wall, and was in the power of the governor : this was the only road to the town in that direction, until the castle was demolished in 1656, when a communication was opened in a direct line between the Old Mar- ket and Peter Street, by the formation of Castle Street. (See Ground Plan.) William Wyrcestre's description of the Castle is as follows : — u The Quantity of the Dongeon of the Castell of Bristow, after th' Information of Porter of the Castell. " The tour called the dongeon ys in thyknes, at fote [the foundation] 25 pedes, [feet] and at the ladyng place, under the leede-cuveryng 9 feet et dimid. "And in length este and weste, 60 pedes [feet] ; and north and southe, 45 pedes [feet] ; with nn toures standyng upon the fowre corners, And the hyest toure callyd the Mayn, id est, mightiest tower, above all the fowre toures, is fyve fethym 28 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. hygh [30 feet] abofe, and the wallys be in thiknes there, vi fote. Item, the length of the castelle wythin the wallys est and weste ys 180 virgae [yards]. " Item, the bredth of the castell from the north to the southe wyth the grate garden, that ys from the water-gate to the mayng rounde of the castill, to the walle northwarde towarde the blak-frerys, 100 virgae. Item, a bastylle lyeth southward be- yond the watyr-gate, and contayneth in length 60 virgae. Item, the length of the bulwark at the utter gate of St. Philip's church conteyneth 60 yardes large. Item, the yerdes called sparres of the hall-ryal [the king's hall] conteyneth yn length about 45 fete of whole pece. Item, the brede of every sparre, at fote, conteyneth 12 inch and eight inch."— p. 260. Leland, who took a view of it in the sixteenth century, says : u In the castle are two courts ; in the outer court and north-west part of it is a great dungeon tower, built of stone said to be brought from Caen, in Normandy, by the red Earl of Glou- cester ; also a church and many lodging apartments. In two areas on the south side of it are, a great gate, a stone bridge, and bulwarks, on the left bank of the mouth of the river Froom (by which he must mean that part of it which runs into Lower Castle Street). There are many towers yet standing in both the courts, but all tending to ruin." We may, ANCIENT BRISTOL. 29 however, congratulate ourselves upon its destruc- tion, for as long as it existed, it was the resort of robbery, cruelty, and violence. Suffice it to say, that in the reign of King John it was annexed to the crown ; that at the dissolution of monasteries much church plate was coined into monies, and a printing press set up within its walls, for printing of Homilies ; that Charles I. sold it to the corpora- tion for the sum of nine hundred and fifty-nine pounds ; and that Oliver Cromwell decreed its de- molition in 1655. Thus was the fortress destroyed, after it had stood at least six hundred years. 7 Thus secured on all sides with every kind of defence by nature as well as by art, the old town appears to have been impregnable ; for in addition to its castle, its walls, and fortifications, it was sur- rounded by the hilly ground of St. Brandon, St. Michael, and Kingsdown to the west and north ; by Eedcliff and Pyle Hill on the south; and by the castle on the east. But the insular situation of the city obliged the inhabitants, from their increasing numbers, to extend the boundaries ; and buildings were soon extensively erected in the suburbs; par- ticularly in the parishes of St. Mary Eedcliff and Temple, which also becoming large and populous, had magistrates of their own appointment, the chief of whom was denominated "Praepositor," andexer- 7 The constables were sent to warn every householder to assist in the demolition of this castle, personally or by substitute. 80 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. cised the same authority, as well as possessed the same title,, as the chief magistrate of Bristol. The only way of communication between the city and those suburbs was a ferry, till 1247, when a strong stone bridge was built, with lofty houses on each side of it, and a chapel across the bridge, forming a gateway in the centre. This bridge was taken down in 1761, and the present one opened in 1768, 8 when Bristol and Redcliff were united to each other, and placed under the jurisdiction of the magistrates of the former, by charter from Henry III. The next extension of the boundaries appears to have been on the side of St. Augustine, where, in 1148, a monastery dedicated to that saint, also a priory to St. James, and other religious houses began to be established, through the favour and opulence of great men, and the charitable dis- position of the people. 9 And wherever these were 8 Besides the swivel bridge at the bottom of Clare Street, and the stone bridge at the head of the Quay, there are no less than thirteen bridges of one arch, with houses erected on them, which cross the Froom. 9 "When the castle, the abbey of St. Augustine, and the priory of St. James were founded, a distribution of the town into parishes appears to have taken place, under the authority of the bishops of Worcester. Like Norwich and several others among the larger old towns, the churches were very thickly placed, most of them being of very small dimensions, and of the rudest architecture. As piety became aided by wealth, in the growing prosperity of individuals, fraternities and parishes vied with each other in re- constructing their churches upon the ANCIENT BRISTOL. SI erected, the inhabitants built their houses near them, from a persuasion that in such situations they were same consecrated ground. There were likewise perpetual funds for their embellishment, which were constantly replenished, ' ad fabricam,' by testamentary bequests of the more wealthy inhabitants. Chantries for obituary masses were built, as additions to the several churches, to the number in some of them of seven or eight. Upon these shrines and altars the most delicate architecture and carving were usually bestowed, and remained to be destroyed either by the reformers and puritans, or by modern repairs. Several of these churches were very highly adorned in their interior parts. The richest particles of masonry were applied without regard to expense ; and the enlarged windows were decorated with stained glass of curious and brilliant imagery. Those churches in Bristol which are at this time the more remarkable for their beauty, were cer- tainly built about the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. In an era when stained glass, representing scriptural stories and por- traits, were the coveted ornaments of all churches, those of Bristol were probably replete with that species of embellish- ment. It is not, however, certain that any manufactory of it was established here, but at Coventry, York, and London ; and much of the finer sort was imported from France and Flanders. From the facility with which it could then be procured by the merchants, we cannot doubt but that it abounded in all the sacred buildings in this town. Yery few fragments, however, now remain, excepting in the Cathedral church. Fanaticism at the Pveformation, and during the occupation of the town by the troops of Fairfax and Cromwell, and, more than all, the love of destroying and repairing by the same hands, and the interested motives of the repairers themselves, have banished the * dim religious light' from almost every window ; and the churches are now fitted up, like lanterns, with raw white or green glass, as evidenced in the windows of the churches of St. Atigustine's, St. Mary Bedcliff, St. Stephen's, and the Temple." 3« CHILCOTT S BRISTOL GUIDE. more under the protection of the saints to whom those sacred edifices were dedicated. Leland has enumerated several religious houses in Bristow in his time. — Itin. 2nd edit, folio, vol. vii. p. 70. Of remarkable buildings for public accommoda- tion and correction, Wyrcestre, in the fifteenth century, named the following : — " The Tholsylle, where the mayor and common council meet from day to day, as it may be required, under a cover of a ceiling leaded over, opposite to the west door of Christ Church. Upon the bridge there is a fair and large room, beautifully vaulted, beneath St. Mary's Chapel, for the session of the sheriffs and jurats of the town to consult for the public good." "The Council House for the mayor, sheriffs, bailiffs, and principal merchants, is situate on the open space above the Tholsylle, opposite the chan- cel of All Saints' Church. " The Pillorye, near the oldest gate in the wall, in the middle of "VVynche Street, (Wine Street) is a round building, handsomely constructed with free- stone, both for dimensions and height, with cham- bers and windows artificially barred with iron : and upon the platform of the roof of this building is erected a collistrigium of timber frame work, in order to collistrige or pillory infamous men, espe- cially dishonest bakers." In the beginning of the eighteenth century, the ANCIENT BRISTOL. 33 Marsh was laid out for building, and the houses forming the south-east side of Queen Square were commenced ; and shortly after Prince's Street was formed out of what was anciently the rope walk, and the greater portion of the houses in King Street were erected. In the year 1771 a subscription of £8,000, of which sum the corporation gave £2,000, was raised for erecting a new street (Clare Street) from Corn Street to the Quay. Previously to which, at the west end of Corn Street, stood three arched* gateways; forming together a triangle. The south gate led to Baldwin Street ; the north to the Quay ; and the east, which was the largest, and sustained the tower of St. Leonard's church, led to Corn Street. The latter was taken down in 1776, to lay open the new street, and the parish was consolidated with that of St. Nicholas. The altar piece was sold, and placed in the parish church of Backwell, Somerset. The hill of Kingsdown, and the parish of St. James underneath it, were very rapidly covered with buildings, including St. James's Square, King Square, and Brunswick Square, (the last begun in 1769 and completed in 1788). The names of Ann Street and George Street leave no doubt as to the date in which they were built. Marlborough and Eugene Streets, in St. James's, remind us of the times in which those heroes flourished. Denmark and Hanover Streets, in St. Augustine's D 34 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. parish, are no doubt also significant. The houses in College Green, Trinity, and Orchard Streets, with numerous others, soon followed. But the most extensive enlargement of the city has been within the last sixty years, during which period villas and streets have been built, and even parishes have been covered with houses and inhabited, round the very large suburbs of Bristol, Clifton, and the Hotwells ; and the population has nearly doubled itself in that time. Having attempted to give a topographical sketch or history of the origin, increase, and growing im^- portance of Bristol, it will not be uninteresting per- haps to offer a view of the domestic history, habita- tions, and manners, of the burgesses of Bristol in the early part of the fifteenth century, as left on record by William Wyrcestre in his Itinerary. 10 By such 10 To William Botoner, otherwise "William "Wyrcestre, the historians of Bristol are under peculiar obligations. He was born at a house on St. James's Bee or Back, as it is now called, in Bristol, in the year 1415, temp. Henry V. He described every building he saw with painful minuteness, giving us the measurements by the number of strides he was compelled to make, in traversing the different objects. His manuscript long lay hid in Benet College Library, Cambridge : it was his com- mon-place pocket book, and the companion of his travels ; but written in so vile a character, that it required an CEdipus to decypher it. The late ingenious Mr. Nasmith, however, ac- complished the task and published the book, with Simon Simeonis, in 1778. Botoner died in they ear 1484. He is said to have been the first who translated Cicero's Discourse on Old Age ; dedicating it to Bishop Wainneet. ANCIENT BRISTOL. 35 means we become conversant, as it were, with the forms of past ages, and " old things become new." The best possible evidence will be derived from their several wills, 11 now preserved in the archives of the corporation, from which such extracts will be made as may tend to elucidate the subject. Several of the principal houses have been no- ticed in Wyrcestre's survey. There were some of stone ; but they were usually of timber-frame, having their fronts very curiously carved, with overhanging stories towards the street. In the two succeeding centuries they were much more highly carved and ornamented. But the common mer- chants' houses, from the minute description given of them in their wills, were uniformly upon the following plan : " There were few without cellars, co-extensive with the whole area of the house, and excavated under the pavement of the streets, in 11 The Book of Wills, or, as it is sometimes called, the " Or- phans* Book," is a very large and thick folio, bound in vellum. It commences with Testam. Johis Wodehous, May 8, 1282, 10 Edw. I., and concludes, as far as they are written in Latin, with Test. Johae Kemson Vidua?, 1479, 18 Edw. IY. The mayor and common council were guardians of all orphan children of bur- gesses, supervisors of wills, and in many instances, residuary legatees. " Inveniendo securitatem Villce, sicut mos est et con~ suetudo." Extracts from Wills. "Tenementum meum, cum solario et cellario, shopis," &c. "Unum magnum tenementum cum 84 shopis." u Cum magno * vaulte/ In aula mea capitali." W. Canynge, 1475. 36 CHILOOTX'S BRISTOL GUIDE. which all the heavy goods were stored." Of such " cellaria," sometimes vaulted with stone, or other- wise covered with beams of timber, not less than one hundred and sixty-nine within the walls, ex- clusive of those in the piers of the bridge, and on the other side of the river, are enumerated in the Itinerary. It is a very curious fact, that subterra- nean Bristol nearly equalled its surface. All heavy goods were removed upon sledges or drays from the quays upon which they were landed. The ground-floor was entirely occupied by " shopae," which, from their number under one roof, must have been small shops, or stalls, which were let out ; behind was a very spacious room, called tc aula," or the hall, in which silk and woollen goods were placed, occasionally serving for the family festivities. Upon the first floor were the " parlura, coquina, camera," the chambers in which the proprietor and his own household dwelt. Above all, with sometimes an intermediate story, beside that under the roof, were those called " solaria," and allotted either as sleeping-rooms, or for the more valuable articles of merchandise. Wealth had then produced luxury, which was first of all exhibited in personal apparel, 12 costly 12 The will of Henry Gildeney, 1430, affords a very curious and interesting evidence of the kind of wealth in which the opu- lent merchant or burgess lived. He possessed wearing apparel, personal armour, and plate, both plain and parcel gilt, of a ANCIENT BRISTOL. 37 gowns of silk, and furs, basilards or short swords, with their ivory handles inlaid with silver, and embroidered girdles, by which they were appended in front. Plate, 13 gilt and embossed, was rare, and quantity and value apparently above men of his own rank. " Camelaukam meum de skarlett cum furrura in eadem." ( The camail was a large hood, covering both the head and shoulders, as is seen in all the portraits of Chancer ; and was so called because composed of earners hair. Scarlet was equally esteemed with furs for pelisses. The different kinds of valuable furs are specified, such as " gris,furques, martens, axi&ftchew;" but not ermine.) " Capitalem meam togam de skarlett, cum tribus bottyns, (but- tons of silver) cum furrura * de gris,' " (fur of the grey or badger.) " Alteram togam de sanguine cum furrura de martens.' * (Sanguine is usually called " color blodius," from its obvious re- semblance.) " Basilardum meum harnizatum cum argento, et optimum meum duploidem, et unum par novum caligarum. Alterum basilardum cum le yvori hafte." (A peculiar sort of short sword. This had an ivory haft, and teas garnished, orna- mented, or mounted with silver. Duploidem, a doublet or juste- au-corps, composed of canvas and chain mail. The shoes were war shoes, jointed with iron.) The basilard is seen in the engraved brass figures of burgesses, upon tombs. " Optimam armaturam meam cum uno poleax et lancea" (my best personal armour). " Zonam harnizatam cum barris argenti rotundis" (a girdle for the basilard, garnished with small silver ornaments, called barrels). " Togas pennulatas" (gowns, with hanging sleeves winged from the shoulders). In 1410, John Hunte bequeaths, " sellammeam cum freno, et arcum et sagittas et bokelere." 13 Most of the opulent merchants had a display of plate, the articles of which were repeated, " secundo et tertio meliorem." It was placed as a deposit in the "buffetorium" (a word which occurs in some of the wills ; buffetorium et cistas meas, my bouffet and chests) ; or upon a standing cupboard at the head of the table, as well as upon it, and was a visible demonstration of 38 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. specially bequeathed. Bowls, large cups for wine, saucers for drinking it, and broad plates and dishes for sweetmeats and confectionary, with small spoons appear to have been the only pieces. In some instances we have bequests of armour. Rich beds of cloth, silk, and embroidery, which occur so frequently in the wills of the higher ranks, 14 are not mentioned. It was usual for a husband to de- vise to his wife the furniture of his own chamber, ct totam cameram meant ;" but coverlids and best linen sheets are specified, and once or twice a best bed of tapestry work, with a tester. wealth, very gratifying to the possessor. " Duas potas argenti," " cou pam deauratam, cum co-opterio" (the cover), "unam zonam deauratam" (a girdle embroidered with gold), "ollam argenti continentem quartam vini" (a jug containing a quart of wine), "cypham cum co-opterio vocatum Bolle." — Walter Derby, 1385. " Unam calicem argenti (a silver chalice), unum pelvem de- auratam" (a gilt ewer). "Unum cyphum cum imagine Scti. Johannis" (a cup, with the figure of St. John upon the cover). — Alice Stokes, 1393. " Unum chargeriam argenti vocatam, Flat pece" (a dish or charger for meat) ; " dimidiam duodenam cochlearum" (half a dozen spoons) ; " unum discum argenti vocatum Sypcedisch deauratum, unum craterem argenti cum co-opterio swaggid" (chased or embossed); "cyphum stantem cum co-opterio et unam perlam in eadem." (This has been usually called the grace- cup of parcel gilt, and this had a pearl set in the cover) ; " patel- lam" (a small plate); "Belle pece secundo meliorem" (a small dish, of wrought or embossed silver ', to hold confectionary). — • Henry Gildeney, 1430. 14 See Testamenta Vetusta. ANCIENT BRISTOL. 39 Bequests for obituary masses and requiems were dictated by the same superstition as in other places. There was a certain rate paid for them in point of number and duration ; but the sums actually be- queathed depended upon the piety of the individual. 15 Their legacies to their servants and to the poor were large, and extensive in their objects. 16 They were enjoined, for the relief of the lame and blind, mending highways, and giving portions with poor maidens in marriage. 17 The provision made for 15 The legacies to the parish churches were chiefly vestments, richly embroidered, and service books. "To St. Stephen's, duos libros vocatus missales" (two books called Missals) ; " etiam sex paria vestimentorum, viz. : unus par develvett super velvett broideringe cum una cruce de redde velvett, item aliud de nigro velvett, broideryd cum una cruce de clothe of golde ;" the others were no less splendid. — J. Shipward, 1403. John Vielle, 1398, orders a thousand masses, and bequeaths " unum annulum ferentem unum lapidem de columpna ad quam ligatus fuit Dns. Noster Jesu Christus" (a ring, bearing apiece of the stone pillar to which J. C. was tied) to St. Stephen's church. 16 " Johanni Berkley serviente meo £40; Waltero Bontflower serviente meo 66 marcs, 8 solid." — Walter Derby, 1385. "Mar- garetse Lewes unum lectum, 1 superlectulum, 1 par lodicum, 1 par lenthiaminum et £6. Cuilibet puellae serviente meo 1 lec- tum" (a bed, one pair of blankets, and one pair of sheets, and six pounds in money. To each of my servant-maids a bed.) — William Coder, 1473. 17 Walter Frampton directs many messuages to be sold and divided into four parts, " unam pauperibus caecis et claudis (blind and lame) ; 21m. in maritagiis pauperum juvencularum. 3tiam, in emendatione viarum et pontium. 4tm. inter religiosos mendicantes" (four orders of whom were established in Bristol.) 40 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. the payment of just debts was of prime consider- ation. 18 That their obsequies should be solemnized ac- cording to the ritual, with care, if not with pomp, as in certain instances, was an especial direction. 19 In order to avoid the manifest injustice of entirely alienating property from the children or relatives of the deceased, for the perpetual support of chan- tries and obits, the priests were contented, or found it their policy to be contented, with such estab- lishments for a term of years, with remainder to certain individuals of the testator's family, named in their wills; and in some instances, for pious uses in general, according to the discretion of the mayor and chief burgesses for the time being, 20 and of which many instances occur during the four- teenth and fifteenth centuries. In several of the wills of the aldermen, who may be supposed to have attained the years of extra- 18 Si quis voluerit jurare super libmm, quod sum in debito, illi quod solvatur." — John Vielle. Jun. 19 « Twenty-four men to carry torches, et cuilibet portatori togam de nigro friseo (frieze cloth) cum caputio de albo friseo ; et in ecclesia Sti. Stephani, quotidie ij. torchys ardentes, coram sepulchrum meum." — «7, Shipward. 20 a p ro 2 sacerdotibus, celebraturis, ad summum altare, per 25 annos, singulis diebus post obitum meum ; et post completes, unum sacerdotem qui teneat anniversarium meum," &c. (two priests to celebrate before the high altar for 25 years, and after- ivards one f for my anniversary.) — Ejtisdem, ANCIENT BRISTOL. 41 ordinary discrection, there are prudential clauses respecting their widows, which might not so well suit with modern liberality. Walter Derby, in 1385, leaves many tenements and an ample dower to Joan his wife; but upon this absolute condi- tion: " That she should not re-marry, but keep herself sole and chaste ; but if she should take to herself a man, to cohabit with her, (which God forbid !) and the same can be lawfully proved, then that the mayor and common council shall im- mediately, and without dely, enter into possession, and sell them for pious uses." Walter Frampton, in 1388, states the same case more severely, and orders, " That the tenements so bequeathed shall be sold sepa- rately, by the sound of the trumpet, at the High Cross, with- out fraud or collusion." In later wills, requests occur to the mayor and sheriffs to take the best security, in case of a second marriage, that the widow, being executrix, and her new husband, should not be empowered to injure the portions of the children of the former marriage. Such was the wisdom of our simple forefathers ! — but as the opinions and manners of society are proportionably improved since the fif- teenth century, our churches are now built by 42 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. taxes levied upon the people ; 21 and the property of orphans is protected and diminished by inter- minable suits in chancery. In the "Proeme" to "William Wyrcestre Redivivus," the author has introduced himself in an imaginary dialogue with the venerable Wyrces- tre, and exclaims, " How do I envy you a sight of Bristow, in the year 1480 ! Then were the massive walls and gates entire — the castle, with its lofty and magnificent keep, c the fairest tower in west- ernlond,' proudly reared its head — now levelled with the earth, 'the baseless fabric of a vision.' The two beautiful churches of the Franciscans and Carmelites, one with its slender spire, and the other with its handsome tower, each then rivalling the neighbouring church of St. Stephen, and now known only by their sites — so many windows 6 richly dight' with iridical colours — shrines and altars of exquisite carving, all demolished by in- discriminating zeal, or hidden from the sight by worse taste." — p. 10. 21 In the course of two centuries, the following churches were built by private individuals : — St Mary Redcliff, by W. Canynge. St John, Walter Frampton. St Werburgh, Walter Derby. All of them mayors of Bristol, ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 43 The following Historical Xotices of Royal Visits, Charters to the City, §c. chronologically arranged, maybe deemed amusing and interesting, as well to the stranger as to the citizen : — About 1139, the Empress Maud, who had landed at Arundel, was conducted in the true spirit of chivalry to Bristol, by King Stephen's brother, the Bishop of Win- chester, to join her brother, the noble Earl of Gloucester. Earl Robert's head quarters at Bristol became, during the civil war, a mere stronghold of banditti, which the Earl could by no means restrain ; they made excursions hence to plunder the neighbouring counties, and returned to the castle with numbers of miserable captives ; and many, who could not redeem themselves, they murdered in torturing to make them confess what money they could raise. Eristol, at this time, is mentioned as being " the volcano whence the kingdom was deluged with fire and sword. " Holingshed relates that a portion of the early education of Prince Henry, son of the Empress Maud, and after- wards King Henry II., was committed to one Matthews, a schoolmaster of this city, u to be instructed and trained up in civil behaviour" This occurred probably from the eighth to the twelfth year of the Prince's age. Matthews lived near the great stone house, the residence of the Hardinges,in Baldwin Street; and hence doubtless origi- nated the friendship of the prince with some of the younger members of the Fitzharclinge family ; for as Robert was born in 1085, he must then have been in his fifty-seventh year, and consequently could be no companion for a boy 44 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. of nine years of age. However, on ascending the throne, King Henry knighted Robert Fitzhardinge, then Governor of Bristol, making him Lord of Berkeley, which name and family have descended to the present time. During this reign, Dermot, King of Leinster, in Ireland, with only sixty retainers, fled over to Bristol for succour, sub- jecting himself and kingdom to the crown of England; and some years after, the king granted to this city leave to inhabit, possess, and enjoy, the city of Dublin (then called Devlin) ; and a colony from this place went thither accordingly. King John, as lord of Bristol, by marrying Isabel, daughter of William Earl of Gloucester, renewed the Bristol Charters, and pointed out the limits of the city. The most unjustifiable act of King John was the im- prisonment of his niece, the Princess Eleanor of Brittany, whom he brought from the continent, and immured in Bristol Castle, in the year 1202; where she was closely confined for the remainder of her life (a period of forty years) ; and guarded by four knights, lest she should have an opportunity of engaging in a clandestine marriage, by which the succession to the crown might afterwards be- come disputable. She was undoubtedly the hereditary heiress, but languished in hopeless imprisonment during the reign of K. Henry III. It was thought expedient, however, that the governor of the castle should annually exhibit the royal captive before the people, to prevent any suspicion of further injurious treatment, — a fact which proves that her captivity excited public commiseration. King John compelled the Jews to pay great part of his charge into Ireland. (The burgesses of Bristol contributed ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 45 one thousand marks.) A Jew, named Abraham, resident here, refused to ransom himself. The king ordered that he should every day lose a cheek tooth, till he paid ten thousand marks. He lost one per day for seven days, and then, having but one tooth left, paid the money. Prince Henry, the eldest son of King John, (afterwards King Henry III.) in consequence of the disputes his father had with the barons, came to Bristol for his personal safety; and that he might receive an education suitable to his elevated rank, many noblemen and preceptors accom- panied him thither. It was then ordered that Bristol should he governed by a mayor, to be chosen in the same manner as was the practice in London ; with two grave, sad, worshipful men, to be called prsepositors or sheriffs, and also a coroner : " that successors should inherit the goods of the deceased," and that the inhabitants should be as free as those of London. The first mayor chosen in consequence of this charter was Adam le Page. It has been said that Prince Edward was a prisoner in our castle in 1263. It is certain that in the feuds of the time, Bristol stood out for the barons, and was afterwards fined one thousand pounds for the defection, when be- sieged and taken by the prince. King Edward I., who, during the civil wars, had suffered many injuries from Llewellin, Prince of Wales, now re- solved to prevent him from doing any future mischief. While he was making preparations to invade Wales, four ships belonging to the port of Bristol, captured a vessel near the island of Scilly, on board of which was one of the daughters of the Earl of Leicester, who was contracted to Llewellin. The prize was particularly acceptable to 46 CHILCOTT 9 S BRISTOL GUIDE. the king, who thus deprived an enemy of his expected bride, and held in captivity the daughter of his formidable opponent. The prince demanded his bride, but experi- enced the mortification of a stern refusal ; nothing there- fore remained but an appeal to the sword. In the course of 1277, Edward conquered Wales, and compelled the haughty Llewellin to submit to a treaty, by which he was obliged to pay fifty thousand pounds, and hold the Isle of Anglesey of the crown of England, under the annual tri- bute of one thousand marks. At the conclusion of the treaty, the king restored the lady to whom Llewellin was contracted, and did him the honour to assist at his nuptials. The king, in 1284, came from Wales to Bristol about the middle of December, kept his court here, and solem- nized the festival of Chrismas {< with much content." At this period, too, it has been confidently asserted, he held a parliament ; but this has been denied by others, who state that it was only a council of certain "magnates." In 1305, the king taxing all the corporate cities and towns, Bristol paid four hundred pounds. In 1312, a violent commotion took place in Bristol; during which, the king having in vain called upon the citizens for their allegiance, and deprived the magistracy of their powers, actual and offensive war was waged be- tween the castle and the town; the citizens building a wall and fort where Dolphin Street now stands (formerly called Defence Lane). " From this wall, and from several other streets of the town, they kept up an irregular warfare against the castle, sometimes shooting into it square heavy arrows, called quarels, and other massive weapons, keeping it by these means in a sort of siege, and suffering no one ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 47 to come out from thence into the town, but by their per- mission : they in the castle carrying on similar hostilities*" For two years and more, the town continued in this state of rebellion, during which time complaints were continu- ally sent to the king, both from the town and from the constable of the castle ; meanwhile, the government of the town was carried on as usual by the mayor and bailiffs in the king's name, but no doubt contrary to his authority. The exact date of the surrender is not known, but it most probably took place in the summer or autumn of 1316. The king immediately took the government of the town into his own hands, and kept it for some months, appoint- ing Maurice, son of Thomas Lord Berkeley, as custos of the town and castle, and probably keeping a strong garri- son there. " The utter oblivion (observes Mr. Seyer, to whom the reader is referred for particulars of this singular and well-authenticated relation) into which this important occurrence has fallen, is not the least remarkable part of it. Beside that our calendars are silent concerning it, there is not the smallest traditional memorial of it remain- ing in Bristol ; and the discovery of an event so interesting as the rebellion of one of the principal cities in the king- dom, maintained by force of arms, for three years, which has been overlooked by our historians, and is here brought to light by an examination of ancient rolls, may induce a reasonable suspicion that other events of equal curiosity might be discovered, by an attentive search into our national records." In 1316, the famine was so intolerable, that it is said, " the prisoners in Bristol jail did pluck and tear those that were newly brought in, and devoured them half alive." 48 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. In 1326, when Queen Isabella invaded England, being incapable of raising an army, King Edward II. soon after rashly resolved to abandon his country, and seek an asy- lum himself in Ireland. With this intention, he left Hugh Spencer the elder, Earl of Winchester, to defend the city of Bristol ; but the queen's army besieged it with such vigour, that it held out but three days ; when the earl, who was ninety years of age, was gibbetted in his armour, and after hanging two days, his body was cut in pieces and given to the dogs ; his head was exposed on a pole, and sent to Winchester. The king himself, as is well known, was soon after cruelly put to death in Berkeley Castle. In 1345 William de Colford, recorder of Bristol, drew up in writing many important laws and liberties, for the regulation and government of the town, which were after- wards confirmed by the charter of Edward III. Among these laws it was ordered that no leprous man stay within the precincts of the town ; nor any common woman re- main within its walls; and if such women were found, that then the doors and windows of the houses in which they reside should be unhung, and be kept by the constable till the women be removed. King Edward III. on the 8th of August, 1373, rewarded the loyalty of the inhabitants of Bristol by granting them a charter, which conferred peculiar immunities : " for a fine of six hundred marks, his majesty granted the town to be separated from Gloucestershire and Somersetshire, and to be henceforth a county of itself," &c. &c. Thirty- six deputies, selected from Bristol, Somersetshire, and Gloucestershire, in equal proportions, were appointed to ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 49 determine the boundaries. Their proceedings were after- wards confirmed by authority of parliament. In the summer of 1399, King Richard II. arrived in Bristol, on his way to Ireland. It is also recorded, that the king caused a theatre to be built at Bristow, for a combat to be fought between two Scots, the one an esquire, appellant, the other a knight, defendant. The appellant was overcome and hanged. It appears that King Henry IV. issued writs for a parliament to be holden at Bristol, but no mention rs made of the actual sitting. He also granted a charter, exempting Bristol from the jurisdiction of the court of admiralty. King Henry VI. coming to Bristol in 1446, took up his residence near RedclifT Church, and during his stay granted some privileges to the mayor and commonalty. In 1456, Queen Margaret came here, "with a great traine of the nobility, and was honourably received and entertained." King Edward IV. came to Bristol, September, 1461 ; where, by his order, Sir Baldwyn Fulford, knight, and two esquires, were beheaded. This circumstance has been immortalized by the well-known poem ofChatterton, "The Bristow Tragedie." King Edward stood at the east window of St. E wen's Church, to see Sir Baldwyn pass by to execution. In 1486, King Henry VII. came to Bristol. He was received with great demonstrations of joy ; and a pageant was performed on the occasion. In 1490,he paid another visit, and while here exacted what is curiously called " a benevolence ;" making every citizen who was worth twenty 50 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. pounds pay twenty shillings, because their wives went so sumptuously appareled ! Thus he obtained five hundred pounds. In 1497, the king and queen visited Bristol, and held their court at the great house on St. Augustine's Back, now Colston's School. In 1499, the king granted a new charter to the corporation, and also presented his own sword, to be borne before the mayor, which is still in the possession of the corporation. An old MS. says that King Henry VIII. went to Thornbury in his progress, and thence came disguised to Bristol, with certain gentlemen, to Mr. Thorn's house, from whence viewing the city, he said to Mr. Thorn, " This is now but the town of Bristol, but I will make it the city of Bristol :" which he afterwards did, by erecting it into a bishop's see. In Queen Mary's reign, Richard Sharp, a weaver; Thomas Hales, a shoemaker; Thomas Benion, a shear- man ; a young man, a carpenter ; and Edward Sharp, a Wiltshire man, aged three-score years; were burnt on St. Michael's Hill, as heretics. On the 14th of August, 1574, Queen Elizabeth came, in her progress through the kingdom, to Bristol. She was received at Lawford's Gate with great pomp and so- lemnity by the mayor, aldermen, and incorporated com- panies, formed under their proper ensigns. The mayor carried the sword of state before her Majesty, bareheaded, to the High Cross, where her Majesty was first addressed by Faem, in twenty-four of Mr. Churchyard's choicest verses. 22 The procession then passed through St. John's 22 Church yarde's Chippes, reprinted by JohnNicols, F.S.A., in "The Progresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth." ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 51 Gate, at the bottom of Broad Street, through Christmas and Host Streets, to her Highness's lodgings at Sir John Young's house (now Colston's School) on St. Augustine's Back, where a boy representing Salutacion, spouted eighteen, and another called Gratulacion, twenty verses ; Obedient Good-will, a third boy, was ready with eight more, but could not speak them, " time was so far spent." Then three hundred soldiers, who were in the procession guarding her Majesty, "shot of thear peeces in passyinggood order; at which warnyng, the great artil- lery vyent of, a hundred and xxx cast peecis : and so the watche charged, and a hundredth shot apoynted for her gard." During the procession, all ranks of people testified their joy at the condescension of the royal visiter, by acclamations and other demonstrations of loyalty and attachment. On the Sunday the Queen went to the college, " to hear a sarmond, whear thear was a speetch to be sayd and an imme to be songe. The speech was left out by an occasion unlooked for ; but the imme was songe by a very fien boye." Her Highness was entertained with diverse pageants, and feats of war by land and water, which much delighted her Majesty. iC The Queen was present during three days, for whose standing there was built a large scaffold of tim- ber, in the Marsh, where she had the full sight of every action that was performed, by the best experienced men in martial practice about this city, with very great charges, especially of gunpowder, whereof no spare was made to give content." " At her Highnes departuer, a gentleman in the confiens 52 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. of the towns liberties spack a ' Dolfull a Due' of twenty verses, in which the citizens are made to say : — Our joy is joynd with grevous groens, our triumphe tornd to tears; The brantch whose blosoms gladnes broght a bitter berry bears* la house and street whear mirth is hard is moen and moorning noies, The sommer day is dimd with clowds, eclypsed are our joyes. The loedstar leavs our wished cowrs, and dims the heavens hie ; Our sofrant will no longer lord in walls of Bristow lye. No marvell sins our barrain soyl, and ground of groes devyce. Haeth yelded nothing that might pleas a prince of so great price. Our deuties are not half discharged, no thoghe we kist the ground, And prostraet fall full flat on face whear her footsteps are found. The Persian daer not cast up eies, nor look upon thear king; Shall Christians then presuem to preace on such a sacred thyng. And sho no part of duties bownds, O God forbid I say ; But that the Lord's anointed should be honor'd evry way. Long loekt this citie for a prince, long sens and many a year, A king or queen beheld this town, short tyme she taryes heer. Good fortuen follow thee, O queen, and gied thy doings all, A world of threfold blessed happ upon thy kingdom fall. As loeth to taek our heavy leave, as leave our lives indeed ; A due, deer lady of this land ; the living Lord thee speed ! 1607. — This year was a view taken in this city, to know how many people were in it, and there were found of all sorts 10549 in the whole. It was done because they would know how much corn would serve the whole by the week. On Friday, June 4, 1613, Anne of Denmark (wife of James I.) came to Bristol, accompanied by the Earl of Worcester, in her own coach. She was received at Law- ford's Gate, at the top of Old Market Street, with all the ceremonies and respect which at that day were considered due to royalty. The graue and ancient councell first in gownes of scarlet dye, Attended one each by a page, did ride triumphantlie. With footclothes were theire horses deckt, no cost they thought fo niucb, For to expres theire willing harts, their loue to her was such. ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 53 To Bristolls antient utmost bounds marcht on this gallant traine, To meet her Grace, for whose aproach with ioy they did remaine. Next in theire hoods the companies, each after theire degree With ioyfnl harts marcht on to meet her gratious maiestie. • ••••* And last of all, tho* last not least, chiefe subiect of my verse 3 bands there were whose worthy praise my muse cannot rehearse. The first in white & violet clad, the second blacke & white, The third with white & scarlot was in martial order dight. No sooner did her Graces traine aproch our Citties bownd, and that her herald gan draw neare, with blast of trumpet sound submissiae, prostrate on his knees the maior then fell downe, and the Recorder by his side, a man of great renowne ; with grave aspect and perfect voice his silence then he brake. The recorder's address occupies fifty-two lines. After the delivery of which we are told, The maior he his present gaue, & did her grace beseech for to accept * * * * A ritch embroidered purse it was, most sumptuous to behold in owtward shew, the inside was cramd full of massy gold. This ceremony being ended, the mayor with all the magistrates took horse again, the last of the common council riding foremost ; the mayor, bareheaded, with a chain of gold about his neck, riding next the royal coach. And when the procession came through Wine Street, all the trained bands of the city were arrayed on each side, to receive her Majesty. On her arrival at her lodgings at Sir John Young's house, the soldiers drew towards the Quay, and every one having loaded his musquet, the command to fire was given by the Earl of Gloucester; this was immediately followed by the discharge of forty- two pieces of ordnance from the Great Tower on the Quay. On Sunday the mayor with the council, in their scarlet robes, but without the sword, came on foot to bring her 54 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Majesty to College to hear a sermon. The trained soldiers formed a line of passage into the cathedral. The Queen's coach was Drawn by 4 milk white coursers braue ; and next her did aproach the Ladies on their trampling steeds, like faire Dianas traine hunting in the Arcadian woods, (as doo the poets faine). The reuerend senats two and two all marching on a row, foremost of all in theire degrees unto the church did goe. Lastly on foot before her grace with all her noble traine of lords and knights into the church the worthy maior came. The queene then set in chaire of state with all the residue,! in their degrees, the maior and sherifes and nobillity. Where learned doctor Robson did a godly sermon frame, in setting forth Gods mighty works and lauding of his name. On the Monday there was a sham sea fight got up, be- tween an English and a Turkish vessel, which took place at the Gibb (now Prince's Street), for the purpose of " shewing her grace some recreation that might delight her!" for which purpose a building was erected, finely decked with ivy leaves and flowers, for her grace to sit and see the fight. We are told that the sanguinary feature of the fray was produced by " six bladders of blood poured out of the scubber holes ! ! !" The next day (Tuesday) the Queen, on leaving the city, was conducted through the streets to the boundary at Lawford's Gate, with much the same ceremonies as she entered it. She * • * most gratiously vouchsafed to thank y m all both maior sherifes and aldermen, who on their knees did fall, and humbly kist her royall hand, such favor did she shew, and loue for loue, which to her grace in dutie they did ow, and furthermore for to expresse her loue to loyall harts, and bountie by rewarding all according to deserts* ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 55 a ring with diamonds beset most gratiously shee sent, unto the maior as a pledge of her most kinde intent. In ought shee could for Bristolls good in rightful cause obtaine, by suit preferd unto king James our gratious soveraigne. 23 Her Majesty, on leaving Bristol, went to Syston House, Gloucestershire, then the residence of Sir H. Billingsley. In the unfortunate reign of Charles I. Bristol experi- enced many vicissitudes and troubles. On the breaking out of the unhappy civil war, it was garrisoned by the parliament's army, and Col. Nathaniel Fiennes was made governor. This city was a place of great importance, as it awed all the western counties, and had accommodations for a large army. The king, sensible of the advantages attending so eligible a post, was desirous of obtaining possession of it. There were many royalists in the city, who engaged to take it by stratagem ; but their scheme being discovered, Alderman Yeamans, of Wine Street, and Mr. Boucher, a wealthy merchant of Christmas Street, being the principal encouragers of the intended revolt, were imprisoned in a dungeon of the castle for twelve weeks, chained neck and heels, before they were tried by martial law at the house of Mr. Robert Rogers, soap maker, (mayor in 1621,) Bridge Parade. They were condemned, and executed in front of No. 4, Wine Street; the rest of the conspirators escaped. The king, finding that his friends had miscarried in their attempts, resolved to lay siege to it with a large army; accordingly Prince Maurice and the Marquis of Hertford having taken the city of Bath, Prince Rupert was ordered from Oxford with a reinforcement to join them, and march immediately for 23 See the Bristol Memorialist, p. 229, &c. 56 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Bristol, where they arrived on the 24th of July, 1643, The garrison was well provided with men, ammunition, and every thing necessary to make a vigorous defence. The besiegers, seeing the improbability of taking the city by blockade, resolved to storm it, which they did in six different places, so effectually, that the besieged were un- able longer to resist, and therefore capitulated. This event was highly favourable to the royal cause, though it was dearly purchased, the king having lost many of his most valuable officers, and five hundred of his best troops, in reducing it. However, he was so well satisfied, that he ordered a public thanksgiving on the occasion ; and on the 3rd of August following, the king himself came to Bristol,, with Prince Charles, the Duke of York, and several of the nobility. The king lodged at the house of Alderman Creswick, in Small Street, and the prince and duke at Alderman Holworthy's, which was in the same street, directly opposite. Bristol remained in the king's hands all the next year ; but Sir William Waller being sent by the parliament with a large army into the west, the king began to be apprehensive for its fate : especially as he was not ignorant that many of the inhabitants were disaffected to his cause. He therefore dispatched an order to Lord Hopton, to use his utmost exertions in providing for its security ; he also sent Prince Charles to inspect the forti- fications, who arrived just in time to prevent a design which the inhabitants had formed of delivering up the city to the parliament's forces. The prince, with the assistance of Lord Hopton, having put the city into such a state as to fear little from its enemies without, retired to Barnstaple, to avoid the pestilence which began to rage in Bristol. ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 57 After the king's defeat, at the unfortunate battle of Naseby, Prince Rupert repaired to Bristol, which place he found so well supplied with men, provisions, and am- munition, that he wrote to his Majesty, assuring him that he could sustain a four-month's siege. From the known valour of the prince, great expectations were formed, and every one concluded that a vigorous defence would be made; but to the astonishment of the whole kingdom, when Sir Thomas Fairfax undertook the siege, on the 21st of August, the prince capitulated, and gave up the place on the 11th of September following. The unhappy King was so chagrined at this loss, and at the trifling re- sistance made by the prince to preserve the city, that, in the first transports of his anger, he revoked all his com- missions, and ordered him to quit the kingdom imme- diately. 1648. — King Charles having been tried and condemned at Westminster was executed there; and the mayor of Bristol proclaimed that there was no king in England, and that the successors to Charles I. were traitors to the state. 1657. — The corporation received a letter from the Lord Protector Cromwell, which is so characteristic of the man that we insert it here. OLIVER P. Trustie and well beloved, we greete you well : remembering well the late expressions of love that I have had from you, I cannot omit any opportunitie to expresse my care of you. I do hear on all hands, that the Cavalier party are designing to put us into blood. We are, I hope, taking the best care we can, by the blessing of God, to obviate this danger. But our intelli- gence on all hands being, that they have a design upon your 58 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. cittie, we could not but warne you thereof, and give you au- thorise, as we doe hereby, to put yourselves into the best pos- ture you can for your own defence, by raising your militia, by virtue of the commission formerly sent you, and putting them in readinesse for the purpose aforesaide ; letting you also knowe that for your better encouragement herein, you shall have a troop of horse sent you, to quarter in or neare your towne. We desire you to let us heare from time to time what occurs touch- ing the malignant partie, and so we bid you farewell. Given at "Whitehall, the 2nd of December, 1657. To our trustie and well beloved, the Mayor, Aldermen, and Common Council of the Cittie of Bristoal. In pursuance of the above command, the militia was raised, and the city was put into a posture of defence. James Nailor 24 came to Bristol, in the year 1 656, and his followers called him, " the everlasting Sun of righte- ousness and Prince of peace : the Prophet of the most high God ; nay, the only-begotten Son of God, out of Zion, whose mother is a virgin, and whose birth is immortal." He made his public entry here in imitation of Christ riding into Jerusalem ; the people singing Hosannah ! and spreading their garments for the animal which bore him to trample on ; the man, no doubt, was insane, but what can we think of his numerous followers and prose- lytes ? The parliament, however, interfering, he was severely punished, conformably to the spirit of the age, and imprisoned till the death of Cromwell. He afterwards renounced his errors. In the beginning of the year 1660, when the nation 24 In Mr. Sever' s Memoirs of Bristol, much singular and minute information is given respecting Nailor, and other enthusiasts of that period. ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 59 was thoroughly sick of political experiments and the rump parliament, " the apprentices of the city of Bristol did rise, and cryed up for ' a free parliament ;' and they kept the city a whole week, and then went into the Marsh and laid down their arms, by reason that a troop of horse came to the city to suppress them." In 1660, King Charles II. was restored, and on Satur- day, September 5, 1663, with his Queen Catharine, visited Bristol ; and with them came James Duke of York and his duchess, the Duke of Monmouth, Prince Rupert, and a great train of nobility. Queen Catharine also visited Bristol in 1674 and in 1677. Monmouth's rebellion in 1685 is said to have failed in its object, only by the duke's refraining to invest Bristol ; when pressed to do so, the duke's compassionate answer, " God forbid that I should bring the calamities of fire and sword together on so noble a city," (the Duke of Beaufort having declared that he would set the town on fire in that event,) naturally raised a sympathy for his cause ; we find accordingly that Bristol was not forgotten in Judge Jef- ferys' " Progress." In January, 1687, there came a letter and an order of King James, for displacing the corporation of this city, and for putting others in their stead, which was accordingly done. And in April a declaration was made for the indulgence of all persons in the free and public exercise of their religion, and in erecting meeting houses ; for which some dissenters presented addresses of thanks : all availed themselves of the liberty to which they had a right, but the king was suspected by most parties of in- tending to introduce popery. Nor did this appearance of 60 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. moderation, nor his proclamation for restoring the displaced corporations in the following year avail; for many of the bishops, officers of rank in the army, and considerable men, adhered to the Prince of Orange, who on the 5th of November landed at Torbay, and on February 15th he with his princess, were proclaimed king and queen in Bristol. 1690. — King William landed from Ireland, opposite Pill, near Shirehampton, (now Lamplighters' Hall,) and went to Sir Robert Southwell's, at Kingsweston, the resi- dence of the late Lord de Clifford, but now of Wm. Miles, Esq., M. P. for East Somerset. September 1, 1702, Queen Anne and Prince George, her husband, were received at Lawford's Gate, by the mayor (John Hawkins, brewer) 25 and corporation, and conducted from Temple Street, through the Long Row, to Sir Thomas Day's house at the Bridge-end, in the fol- lowing order : a great number of horsemen, including sixty captains of ships — twelve of the Queen's coaches, containing her suit — eighteen of the clergy, bare headed — the common council — the aldermen — the mayor, car- rying the pearl sword — part of the Queen's guards, before and behind her coach — coaches of the nobility and gentry. Her Majesty was dressed in purple, mourning for the late King. The royal coach and trappings of the horses were black, as were those of the nobility. With the Queen 25 Sir John Hawkins's mansion and brewery were the pre- mises on the east side of Temple Street, the original front of which remains, now divided between the Colston's Arms public house and another tenement, with the waggon warehouse and stables, extending in depth to Temple Back. ANNALS OF BRISTOL. 61 rode the prince, and two ladies of honour. The dinner was at the expense of the city ; and between four and five o'clock, after knighting Mr. Mayor, the royal and noble visitants returned to Bath. July 24, 1710, at Westminster, the Queen, upon the petition of the mayor, burgesses, and commonalty, granted what is called the great charter of Bristol. — See Mr. Seyers Collection. 1718. — The first insurance office in Bristol against fire, the Crown, was established ; capital £40,000. David Hume, in his Memoirs, says: "In 1734, I went to Bristol, with some recommendations to eminent mer- chants ; but in a few months found the scene totally un- suitable to me." He was clerk to a Mr. Millar (a partner in the first banking-house established here); his taste in English composition being offended by the merchant's letter book, and venturing to reform it, " I'll tell you what, Mr. Hume," exclaimed his employer, " I have made £20,000 by my English, and I won't have it mended." In 1749, much rioting in Bristol, in consequence of the erection of turnpike gates. The workmen employed in the extensive collieries in this neighbourhood, in May, 1753, were very tumultuous on account of the high price of bread: it was not until several lives were lost that their proceedings could be suppressed. On Thursday, September 19, 1792, a mob collected at Bristol Bridge, disputing the further right of demanding tolls for passing over; — the result was, the burning cf the gates and the board which announced the rates; new gates were erected, which were the next day also destroyed ; — 62 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. the place continuing a scene of great tumult till the Mon- day following, when the Hereford militia were called out, and the riot act read : the mob refusing to disperse, the soldiers, after repeated insults, were commanded to fire, which they did with fatal effect, many persons being killed, and others wounded. July 27, 1817.— His Grace the Duke of Wellington made his public entry into the city, through Park Street, under triumphal arches erected for the occasion, amidst the cheers of the accumulated thousands assembled to greet him on his way to the Mansion House, in Queen Square, where he dined with the corporation, &c. &c. In December of the same year, her Majesty Queen Charlotte, the Princess Elizabeth, and the Duke of Clarence, being on a visit to Bath, were invited by the body corporate to visit Bristol. They were received at the Mansion House, took a view of Clifton, visited Col. Hugh Baillie and his lady, at their house in Park Row, and returned to Bath the same evening. THE BRISTOL KIOTS, IN 1831. Few events will prove so memorable, in the annals of its history, as the riots, which reduced our city to a partial ruin, and which were attended with so much loss, disaster, and disgrace, to many of its inhabitants. These occurrences, viewed in their causes and conse- quences, will also fill an important place in the history of the eventful times in which they occurred, and hence a sketch of the tragical transactions is inserted here. Never did any event of the kind call forth a greater torrent of THE BRISTOL RIOTS. 63 wild and ignorant misrepresentation, and malevolent abuse, than the Bristol riots. Justice, generosity, charity, and common courtesy, were lost, amid the angry declamation and strife of party writers. Time, and the numerous trials that arose out of these calamitous transactions, have, in a great measure, dispelled the cloud of prejudice which party violence had raised. The incontrovertible evidence of courts of justice has clearly proved who were guilty and who were innocent ; has refuted much misrepresentation ; and exposed the arrogant pretensions of ill-informed, meddling, and officious zeal. Truth requires, therefore, that a brief statement of authenticated facts should be com- piled for the information of posterity. The excitement which was created in the public mind throughout the country by the constant agitation of the reform bill, broke out in this city into acts of open violence, on the arrival of Sir Charles Wetherell as its recorder, to deliver the gaol, October 31, 1831. Sir Charles having rendered himself obnoxious to the promoters of the bill, by his strenuous opposition to it in the House of Com- mons, some apprehension was entertained by the public authorities, that insults might be offered him on his en- tering the city, and therefore he was met at the outskirts of it by an escort, consisting of the sheriffs and city officers, by some gentlemen on horseback, and about three hundred constables. As he entered the town, he was followed by a considerable crowd, hissing, hooting, and occasionally throwing stones at his carriage, till the procession reached the guildhall. The commission was there opened in the usual form, amid great noise and confusion. On leaving the guildhall, the crowd, in greater numbers than before, 64 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. followed him, repeating their insults, till the recorder entered the mansion house in safety, ahout noon. Soon after the arrival of Sir Charles at the mansion house, some thousands of the labouring classes assembled in Queen Square. The rioters, arming themselves with sticks, from a pile of fagots on the Back, had several skirmishes with the constables, but were quickly put to flight. About three o'clock part of the constables were allowed to return home. Towards evening the crowd increased ; and under cloud of night the rioters grew bolder and more violent. The mayor, attended by some of the magistrates, appeared in front of the mansion house, and endeavoured, by expostulation and entreaty, to prevail on them to dis- perse ; but in return they were assaulted with showers of stones. The riot act was therefore read, and the military sent for. In the mean time, the mayor and those who were with him in the mansion house, were in the greatest personal danger. The mob on the outside had driven in the constables, torn up the iron railings in front of the house, and with stones and large pieces of timber battered in the windows and window frames, and the panels of the doors; and were, with the greatest difficulty, prevented from forcing a complete entrance by barricading the win- dows and doors with beds and furniture. On the arrival of the soldiers, the people withdrew from the attack, but they showed no signs of alarm, and received the soldiers with loud cheers. The whole of Queen Square was now in darkness, the rioters having put out the lamps. In the large hall of the mansion house the lamps were still burning, and through THE BRISTOL RIOTS. 65 the shattered doors and window frames showed distinctly the interior of the lower apartments, now filled with con- stables who had defended the stair-case from the rush of the rioters. In the course of the evening Sir Charles escaped by the roof, and soon afterwards left Bristol, as was publicly intimated next day at noon. During the remainder of Saturday night, the mob con- tinued in front of the mansion-house, but except occasion- ally molesting the soldiers, they were not guilty of any further outrage there. The dragoons were ordered to draw their swords, with the sides and backs of which they dealt them some heavy blows. About midnight the rioters went in a body to the council-house, and smashed the windows. The cavalry pursued them, and they returned the charge with showers of stones from the corners of the streets and lanes. At the top of the Pithay, (a steep narrow lane, leading out of Wine Street,) a stone having struck one of the 14th Dragoons, the soldier turned, and shot a man, who some say was unconcerned in the riots : no other lives were then lost. Amidst such scenes of tumult was the morning of the Lord's day ushered in. These wicked disturbers of its peace were however driven from the street ; but they only retired to plot further mischief. Long before the different places of worship were opened, the piquet of dragoons was withdrawn to take refreshment, when the mob immediately renewed their attack on the mansion-house. The mayor, several gentlemen, and some constables, who were within, in all eight or ten persons, had just time to escape over the roofs of the adjoining houses, before the rioters rushed into all the rooms, threw 66 CHILCOTT 5 S BRISTOL GUIDE. out the furniture into the street, and destroyed or carried away every article of value. The cellars were forced open, casks of wine were staved, and bottles broken and emptied of their contents. The ^flooring and area flowed with intoxicating liquors. An abandoned crew of men and women were seen, some carrying off stolen property, others struggling greedily for wine and spirits. The drunkards staggered and reeled about the pavement, or lay along in senseless stupefaction, from which many never awoke again to the light of life. The piquet of the 14th Dragoons quickly returned. The mob, inflamed with liquor, and seeking to revenge the death of the man who had been killed the preceding night, attacked them with stones. As the soldiers had no orders to fire, or to use their sabres, the officer again with- drew them to their quarters; to which while they were slowly retiring along the Quay and over the drawbridge, a prayerless multitude, unwashed, and clad in the dirty garments of yesterday, followed and pelted them with brickbats. Hurt and provoked beyond endurance, the soldiers fired in self-defence ; a man was killed, and seven or eight wounded. To appease the people, the 14th Dragoons were ordered to Keynsham, leaving only thirty- three soldiers of the 3rd Dragoons to protect the city. Having got rid of the troops, the rioters grew bolder, and planned an attack on the gaols. Bridewell prison was the first : on their way thither, the mob were made to halt, and break open an anchorsmith and ironmonger's shop ; sledge-hammers, crow-bars, and other instruments, were handed out, and distributed in an orderly and systematic manner. With these formidable weapons, the unresisted THE BRISTOL RIOTS. 67 mob quickly took the strong heavy prison gates off their hinges, and threw them into the iloat; they then battered off the locks and bars, let loose the prisoners, and set Bridewell on fire. About the same time (near two o'clock, p. m.), a large party of rioters attacked the new gaol, a strong building, almost entirely built of massive stone and iron, which cost nearly one hundred thousand pounds. A very numerous and formidable mob ranged themselves in front of the gaol, while all around, and on the opposite bank of the river, a multitude, computed at fifteen thousand persons, were gathered together — many, no doubt, from curiosity; but the loud shouts of approbation from the crowd, which rent the air from time to time, as the rioters were forcing their way into the prison, made it but too evident that a very large number came to encourage by their presence, and to assist, if necessary. No due preparation had been made for the defence of this strong building ; and to the suddenness and boldness of the attack, its success may, in a great measure, be ascribed. Two magistrates, and about thirty citizens and consta- bles, attempted to enter the prison, but were attacked with stones, and driven back. The rioters then forced their way into the governor's house, earned off the furniture, the prison books, the caravan, and the gallows, and threw them into the river. About this time the hopes of the well-disposed spectators were raised, by the appearance of part of the 3rd Dragoon Guards, the only remaining de- fenders of the city ; but they had no orders to attack the mob, and they soon retired to their former station. With the help of the prison keys, found in the governor's 68 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. house, and with their ponderous sledge-hammers, the rioters quickly released the prisoners, about one hundred and seventy in number. These sallied forth, as they made their escape one after another, mingling their yells and frantic gestures with the shout of the multitude. Many of them stripped off their prison clothes as they went, and were met by their friends and associates. One of the ringleaders then took down the flag from the flag- post, over the entrance to the prison. At this signal, the incendiaries began their work. — Thick black clouds of smoke arose from the vast pile of building; the treadmill, the governor's house, and the chapel, were quickly on fire ; and the strong fire-proof walls of the gaol, constructed of stone and iron, were blackened by the flames, which strove to spread themselves, but were checked on either side by these impenetrable barriers. The mob burnt the chairs, benches, tables, and every thing destructible within the prison. From the prison the mob sallied forth in several parties, and burnt the toll-houses ; the gate-keepers, however, were allowed to remove their property. A ringleader directed the operations with impudent coolness. The Gloucester County Prison near to Bristol, shared the same fate ; and a party was despatched to complete the destruction of Bridewell, which had been only partially consumed. The three prisons, blazing in different quarters of the city at the same moment, served as terrible beacons to warn the inhabitants of their danger. 26 From street to 26 The rioters boasted " Sir C. Wetherell has come to try the prisoners : — well, we shall save him the trouble, and make the gaol delivery ourselves.' ' THE BRISTOL RIOTS. 69 street, and house to house, rumour spread and fearful con- sternation. The magistrates had been at the council -house, and a party of citizens had assembled at the guildhall, but no adequate civil force was organized. The town was now at the mercy of a lawless rabble, increased by the bands of thieves and robbers, who had just issued from their cells, in all the insolence of successful villany. From the Gloucester County Prison, at Lawford's Gate, the mob proceeded to the Bishop's Palace ; and the mayor, with several persons who had been with him during the day, followed by as many citizens as could be collected, went down to the scene of action, having given orders for all the troops and special constables, which could be brought out, to be there. The constables, who had at- tempted to secure some of the mob, finding themselves deserted by the soldiers, who had proceeded to the k man- sion-house, in consequence of its being on fire, got away as well as they could, declaring that they would not again venture their lives. The Bishop's Palace, thus unprotected, was burnt to the ground. Six fires were now raging in different quarters of the city ; and night had closed in. " What are we to expect from these outlaws ? — what will they burn next ? " were questions anxiously put, by persons who were carrying through the streets their money, deeds, account books, and other valuables, with suspicious looks and anxious steps. After the mansion-house had been destroyed, the rioters began their attack upon the next house, forcing open the doors, and throwing out the furniture or valuables into the street; and thus continued sacking and burning the 70 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. houses, one after another, until the north and west sides of the Square were entirely consumed, except two houses in the middle of the western side, which were bravely de- fended by the inhabitants. The walls, roofs, and rafters, were falling in with a momentary crash, followed by clouds of dust and smoke, and bursts of flame, and frantic yells from the dissolute crew, some of whom were occasionally disturbed in their revelries, by the flames they had kindled. Meanwhile the centre of the Square presented a spectacle not easily to be pourtrayed. Here were profligates of both sexes, collected from the lowest haunts of infamy ; the bully, the furious and besotted drunkard, and the swearer. Some were tossing firebrands into the houses, stealing wine and provisions, plate and furniture, and wantonly destroying far more. Others were fearlessly and openly insulting and robbing the persons whom they had burned out of their houses. Some were offering to sell stolen goods to the by-standers, or holding mock auctions. Port, claret, and champagne, were held up for sale at a penny or two- pence per bottle. A piano-forte, worth forty or fifty pounds, was bought from the thieves for a few shillings. Carts and cars, filled with beds, tables, chairs, plate, and stolen goods of every description, were rattling along the pavement, to receiving houses in the city and neighbour- hood. Others, with characteristic indifference to the future, were taking their miserable enjoyment of the pre- sent hour. Seated in companies on the grass, they greedily devoured the provisions they had stolen, and quaffed the wines, which were handed about in great pro- fusion. Men, women, and boys, were seen knocking off THE BRISTOL RIOTS. 71 the necks of the bottles, and swallowing the liquor, till they fell senseless. To many it was their last horrid meal. Death was in the cup of drunkenness; the swift sword of the avenger was soon to pierce them through ; and the fires which lighted up their feast, were to be their funeral pile. The view of the fires from Clifton, Bedminster, and several miles around, was awfully grand. The night was dark and cloudy, and rainy betimes. Very mercifully the wind was low, and the flames were not furiously borne along ; but they rose high, in spiral wavy columns, and often threw around a shower of brilliant sparks. The thick smoke hung over the city, like a broad curtain, in massy folds, which glared with a peculiar tinge of dark red, passing into clouds of dun, and brown, and black, the canopy of a great conflagration. The glare from the burning buildings was, at times, so strongly reflected from some of the neighbouring streets, that the spectator was deceived into the belief that they also were on fire. When the fires were at their height, it was as light as day, for a range of several miles ; and this beacon of sedi- tion conveyed its baleful message as far as to the Welsh mountains. The varied outline of the city, with its nu- merous spires, the venerable cathedral, the lofty gothic tower of RedclifF, standing out in bold relief and dark contrast, or else brightly illuminated by a sudden flash or steady blaze ; the glowing water, the reflection from the canvass of the ships, and the changeful aspect of the sky, as the flames alternately rose and sunk, or grew faint and pale in the morning light: all these objects formed a scene which it is impossible to paint or to describe, as it 72 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. appeared; but it will never be forgotten by those who beheld it. Withal it was so sudden and so strange, that many, as they stood gazing upon it, fancied it was a ter- rible dream, and could hardly believe their own senses, or think that others would believe the dreadful tale. As early as five o'clock on Monday morning, the mob attempted to set fire to the first house on the south side of the Square; but were prevented by Major Mackworth charging them, at the head of about twenty men of the 3rd Dragoon Guards, when upwards of one hundred of the incendiaries were killed or wounded. This service accomplished, the 14th Light Dragoons were recalled from Keynsham, and were hailed by the citizens as their deliverers. These were soon joined by another troop of the 14th, from Gloucester, under Major Beckwith, and twelve men of the Bedminster Yeomanry, under their captain. This united force again assembled in Queen Square, and charged the mob, who fled in all directions. The military now divided themselves into companies of about twenty in each, galloped through the streets after the people, and cut down or rode over every person in their course. During the whole of this day the shops were shut, and public as well as private business entirely suspended. Awful are the instances in which some of the rioters perished. One man had his head severed from his body, by a single cut of the sabre. Several were pierced through. A case unusually dreadful occurred, in digging out the ruins in the Square, after the riots were over. A man, who had drunk himself into a state of insensibility in one of the vaults, was entombed there and scorched by the THE BRISTOL RIOTS. 73 flames. He was found alive, but his arms were burnt to stumps, and be looked more like the trunk of an oak scathed by lightning, than a living being. In short, the numbers who died of drunkenness, perished in the flames, and were killed and wounded by the soldiers, were calcu- lated at about five hundred. The riots were now effectually checked ; and bodies of constables, armed with pistols, swords, and staves, were speedily organized. Reinforcements of yeomanry, infan- try, and artillery, were hourly arriving. It may with truth be said, on the sound of the drums and music dropping on the ears of the inhabitants, as the military approached, that ' there was great joy in this city.' Persons of every rank and station flocked to their doors, and greeted the soldiers' arrival with cheers. Monday night was now arrived, but not without alarm ; for an oil warehouse acci- dently caught fire. A continual firing from the ships in the harbour was kept up ; and the inhabitants very gene- rally put lights in their windows, from an apprehension the mob would put out the public lamps. On Tuesday morning the shops and public offices were opened for business ; and to prevent the entrance of bands of rioters from the country, troops were stationed at the outposts of the city. Crowds of spectators now ventured out to look at the ruins, which consisted of the Bishop's Palace, the Mansion House, the Custom House, the Excise Office, the Toll Gates Prince's Street, Bridewell, New Gaol, Gloucester Prison, and nearly fifty private houses and warehouses. Soldiers and constables were parading the streets, and entering the houses where stolen property was suspected to be concealed. Plate, furniture, 74 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. &c. to a considerable amount, however, were recovered from families, who, from their respectability, would never have been suspected of participating in acts of such glaring dishonesty. The stolen goods were carried into some of the churches and the exchange, where it lay in confused heaps, from which the sorrowing owners sought out the broken and injured remains of their property. No doubt but the nation at large benefited by our loss, as the tumults of Bristol sounded an alarm through the length and breadth of the land. The property destroyed during the riots, was valued by twelve commissioners, one chosen out of each ward, agreeably to the provisions of an act of Parliament, at about £70,000. THE TRIALS OF THE PRISONERS. On Monday, January 2, 1832, Sir N. C. Tindall, Sir J. B. Bosanquet, Sir W. E. Taunton, appointed by the special commission to try the prisoners charged with being concerned in the riots, arrived in Bristol. There were eighty -one prisoners for trial ; of whom four were hung; one reprieved, (being proved insane) ; twenty-six transported lor life; seven were banished, for seven or fourteen years; and forty-three were sentenced to im- prisonment and hard labour, for various periods. COURTS MARTIAL. Col. Brereton. — On Monday, January 9, 1832, a Court Martial was held on Lieut.-Col. Brereton, the military commander of the district, at the Merchants' Hall, on charges of culpable misconduct and neglect, in the em- THE BRISTOL RIOTS. 75 ployment of the troops under his command. The Court Martial had only sat four days, when its proceedings were suddenly terminated by the melancholy end of that un- happy officer. The responsibility of his situation, the agitating period of the riots, the blame he had incurred, his anxiety and mental suffering, during the public inves- tigation of his conduct, combined with a bad state of health, appear, from the verdict of the coroner's inquest, to have so excited and disordered his mind, as to produce temporary insanity, under the influence of which he shot himself through the heart, and thus drew a dark curtain around the last actions of his life. Capt. Warrington. — On Wednesday, January 18, a Court Martial was held on Captain Warrington, of the 3rd Dragoon Guards, on certain charges connected with his conduct during the time of the riots. After hearing- evidence for and against the Captain for eight days, the Court sentenced him to be cashiered, but with permission to sell out ; which sentence was confirmed by the King. In closing the account of the remaining trial connected with the dreadful events above recited, it is only necessary to state, that on October 29th, 30th, and 31st, 1832, the trial of Charles Pinney, Esq., the Mayor of Bristol during the riots, came on, in the Court of King's Bench, " for not exerting his authority to repress such outrage ; also, that he omitted to give such orders and make such arrange- ments as were expedient and necessary," &c. &c. The sixth day concluded the trial, and the jury returned a verdict of Not Guilty. The prosecution against the aldermen were then withdrawn. 76 MODERN BRISTOL. SITUATION EXTENT — POPULATION — LOCAL GOVERNMENT — COM- MERCE— MANUFACTURES-— GEOLOGY AND COAL FIELDS — GREAT WESTERN AND BRISTOL AND EXETER RAILWAYS, ETC. ETC. Bristol, distant from Bath eleven miles and a half, N. W., and one hundred and eighteen by the Great Western Railway west from London, and for centuries reputed the second trading city in Great Britain, is still considered " The Metropolis of the West/' from its commerce, extent, and number of inhabitants. It lies partly in two coun- ties, and was erected, for the good services the King had received from it by sea and land, into a county of itself, by Edward III. The Avon 27 and the Froom 27 wind their way through it. The former v The river Avon has its rise in the northern limits of Wilt- shire ; and in its progress to Bristol passes through Melksham, Bradford, and Bath. The river Froom rises at Doddington, Gloucestershire, and passing through Iron Acton, Hambrook, Stoke Park, and Stapleton, enters Bristol, where it joins the Avon, and forms the Quay. MODERN BRISTOL — EXTENT. 77 is the principal river: and at eight miles from its efflux into the Bristol Channel, or Severn sea, the city is built, for the most part on a thick bed of sand, generally yielding water at a few fathoms deep. The ground under the surface is perforated with drains and common sewers in all directions, which receive and carry off into one of the rivers the filth from almost every house in the city. It was from the above cause, no doubt, that an order of common council occurred in 1651, prohibiting the use of carts and waggons, only suffering sledges or drays. Camden, in giving our city credit for its cleanliness in forming " goutes " says, " they use sledges here instead of carts, lest they destroy the arches, beneath which are the goutes." Another writer says, " they suffer no carts to be used in the city, lest, as some say, the shake occasioned by them on the pavement should affect the Bristol milk, (sherry) in the vaults, which is certainly had here in the greatest perfection." The practice of using sledges exclusively is now superseded by the use of drays, with low strong iron wheels, on which from two to four hogsheads of sugar, rum, &c. are taken away from the ships' sides on the Quay to the various warehouses. The city, taken with its suburbs that pertain to and are connected with it, may be described as standing in a vale, on eminences, and on level ground. Some parts of it indeed are built on 78 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. acclivities so very steep and lofty, as to render the use of carriages inconvenient. Kingsdown, 28 St. Michael's Hill, and Brandon Hill, rise nearly two hundred and fifty feet perpendicular above the bed of the river ; and consequently, when viewed from such elevations, the lower buildings appear sunk in a deep valley, and the spectator looks down upon the loftiest spires. A fanciful resemblance has been discovered by some between Bristol and ancient Rome, chiefly drawn from this circumstance, — that both cities stand on seven hills, and have a muddy rapid river running through them. Some of the emi- nences on which Bristol stands, exhibit a variety of beauties; and are in general covered with houses and gardens, rising street over street to their very summit, whence there are delightful and extensive views over the city and circumjacent country. 28 The Montacute, generally called Kingsdown, celebrated in days of yore as the "jousting place" for military exhibitions in the tented field, has been much more celebrated for its tavern and turtle feasts. By an odd coincidence, one Roger Turtle, in the fourteenth century, was mayor no less than seven times, viz. in 1326, 1330, 1332, 1333, 1335, 1340, and 1341; a circumstance which occasioned the following jeu d? esprit ; — " If old Roger Turtle was seven times mayor, An honour which fell to no other man's share ; His descendant, a Turtle, in the modern day, Bears, as mayor elect, a perpetual sway." MODERN BRISTOL JURISDICTION. 79 The surrounding districts are variegated with high salubrious downs, producing the sweetest herbage ; fruitful valleys, watered by springs, rivu- lets, brooks, and rivers ; steep precipices and rocks, waving woods, and the most charming natural prospects, embellished by art. In the immediate vicinity are many handsome and pleasantly situ- ated villages, interspersed with seats of the nobility and gentry ; all of which unite to render Bristol an object of considerable attraction. Bristol is nearly ten miles in circumference, and supposed to cover about 2000 acres of land ; and with its vicinity contains upwards of nine hundred and fifty streets, squares, lanes, passages, and courts ; ten markets for various commodities ,* and upwards of five hundred licensed public houses, beer shops, &c. : the parish of Clifton, the out- parishes of St. Philip and Jacob, and St. Paul, part of Westbury, and part of Bedminster, are now subjoined to it for municipal and parliamen- tary purposes. The city measures from east to west, that is, from the top of St. Lawrence Hill to the colonnade at the Hotwell House, considerably more than three miles ; and from north to south, or from the top of Stoke 's Croft to the end of the buildings on the Bridgwater road, about two miles and a half. The Jurisdiction of the Corporation, by water, extends from Tower Haratz, on Temple 80 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Backs, to Kingroad; and from thence down the south side of the Bristol Channel, as low as the two islands, called the Flat Holm (on which is erected a light house, seventy feet high) and the Steep Holm, famous for being the retirement of Gildas, the old Bristol historian ; and from thence directly eastward toward the Denny island, and so on again to Kingroad. The Population of the City and Suburbs, which include the new parliamentary boundary of the out-parishes of St. Philip and Jacob, St. James, and St. Paul, the parish of Clifton, and parts of the parishes of Westbury and Bedminster, as taken June 6, 1841, amounted to 126,988; being 10,448 more than the census of 1831, and 40,945 more than the census of 1821 for the same district. Local Government or the City. — Bristol gives title to a Marquis, which is at present en- joyed by the noble family of Hervey. The title was created in 1622, by King James I. and first conferred upon the ancient family of Digby. The office of High Steward is first mentioned in the annals of Bristol, in the year 1540, when the Duke of Somerset possessed that dignity. Of its duties or emoluments no mention is made, except the statement that Oliver Cromwell served that office, and that he received a salary of five pounds as annexed to it: in addition to which, a pipe of Canary and half a tun of Gascoigne MODERN BRISTOL — CORPORATION. 81 wine were ordered to be presented to him. The present High Steward is his grace the Duke of Beaufort. THE ARMS OF BRISTOL. By a patent, dated 1569, the Arras of Bristol are declared to be " Gules, on a mount vert issuant out of a castle silver, upon wave a ship gold." The crest and supporters : " Upon the helm, in a wreath gold and gules, issuant out of the clouds, two arms in saltour and charnew, in the one hand a serpent vert, in the other a pair of balances gold ; supported by two unicorns sejant, gold maned and horned; and clayed sables mantled gules, doubled silver. The motto, Virtute et Industrial The Corporation consists of a Mayor, forty- eight Town Councillors, and sixteen Aldermen; who are respectively chosen agreeably to the pro- visions of the Municipal Reform Act. Subject to the Corporation are the Sheriff and his Deputy, the Recorder, (who must be a barrister of five years' standing) Town Clerk, Treasurer, City Solicitor, Sword Bearer, Clerk of the Peace, Clerks to the Magistrates, Coroner, Registrar of the Court of Conscience, Receiver of the Town Dues, Water Bailiff, Quay "Warden, Corn Metre and Weigher, Keepers of the Prison and Bridewell, Clerks of the Markets, Exchange Keeper, &c. who are elected annually. For municipal purposes 82 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Bristol is divided into ten wards. The number of rated properties within the boundary is upwards of 20,000, of which 10,767 are within the old city bounds. The municipal constituency is under 4000. There are eighteen Magistrates, appointed by the Secretary of State for the Home Department ; some of whom daily attend with the Mayor, who presides, at the Council House. The Police establishment (also subject to the Corporation) have four station houses, viz. the City, (opposite the Bridewell, in Bridewell Lane) ; Clifton, (Brandon Hill) ; St. Philip and Jacob, (Clarence Place); and Bedminster. Their nu- merical force exceeds two hundred men, including superintendent, inspectors, Serjeants, &c. who day and night patrol the city and its boundaries. There are very large estates in the city and else- where, under the control of twenty-one charity trustees, left in trust, for the support of public schools, alms houses, &c. The trustees received their appointment from the Lord Chancellor in 1836, when the old corporation, who were origi- nally appointed by the different donors to the super- intendence and administration of their charities, was dissolved. One of the two judges who go the western circuit, comes to Bristol in August yearly, to hear and determine at the Guildhall law suits only, arising in Bristol as a citv and countv. Also the recorder. MODERN BRISTOL COURTS OF EQUITY. 83 who presides as judge, holds a quarter sessions for trying minor offences committed within the boun- dary formed by the Municipal Corporation Act. Charges for capital offences are tried at Gloucester. A spacious prison, on the plan of Howard, called Lawford's Gate Prison, was erected about thirty- seven years since, at the end of Gloucester Lane, on the road to Stapleton, The Petty Sessions are held every Thursday in the Sessions' Poom adjoining the prison, for offences committed within the county of Gloucester, as well as at Ashton every fortnight at the Workhouse, for offences committed in that part of Bedminster which is still, for criminal jurisdiction and other purposes, retained to the county of Somerset. A Court of Requests is held every Tuesday in the Guildhall, Broad Street, for the recovery of debts above two and under fifteen pounds, con- tracted within the jurisdiction of the city. The corporation appoints all the officers. A Court of Conscience for the recovery of debts under forty shillings, is held every Monday : office in All Saints' Lane. The two sheriffs hold courts also, for determining writs of inquiry. The Tolzey Court is an ancient court of record for the recovery of debts and damages to any amount. The judge is appointed by the corpora- tion, and the causes are tried by a jury as at Nisi- Prius. The Pie Powder Court is a branch of the 84 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Tolzey Court, and is held on the 29th of Sept. annually under the piazza in the Old Market. Her Majesty's District Court of Bank- ruptcy, Guildhall, Bristol, Commissioners, Mr. Serjeant Stephen and R. Stephenson, Esq, The court sits every day at 1 1 o'clock ; its officers are in attendance from half-past 10 till half-past 3, This district court comprehends all places locally situated in the counties of Gloucester and Mon- mouth, and all places included within or to be con- sidered as forming parts of the northen division of the county of Wilts, the eastern division of the county of Somerset, the county of the city of Bristol, and the several counties of Brecon, Cardigan, Car- marthen, Glamorgan, Pembroke, and Radnor, in Wales. Bristol sends two members to parliament. The right of voting is at present vested in freeholders of forty shillings per year and upwards, householders whose rental amounts to ten pounds per annum, and burgesses or freemen, if residing within the bounds limited by the reform bill. The freedom is confined to freemen's children born previously to the passing of the reform bill. No freeman is disqualified from voting, except he receive paro- chial relief or assistance from an alms house, or be employed in any office under government. The present number of freeholders and free burgesses is about ten thousand. MODERN BRISTOL — COMMERCE. 85 Commerce. — Bristol has been described by seve- ral writers as a place of great traffic, as early as the reign of King Stephen, and as one of the richest cities of England, receiving merchandize from neighbouring and foreign places, " with ships un- der sail." However questionable the statement that merchandize was imported from foreign ports into Bristol, before the use of the mariner's com- pass was known, it is quite certain that as early as 1415 Maister Canynges was engaged in an exten- sive foreign trade from this port: and that the illustrious Cabot, a native of Bristol, in 1497 dis- covered Newfoundland, 29 and distinctly described the coast of Florida the year before Columbus made his voyage. He was also the first who ob- served the variation of the needle in the mariner's compass. In 1549, Cabot proposed to trade to Archangel, and thus established an intercourse be- tween Russia and this country. King Edward VI. allowed him a pension of £166 per annum, and 29 Robert Thorn, one of trie founders of the grammar school, sheriff of Bristol in 1503, writes thus to Doctor Leigh : — " This inclination and desire of this discovery I inherited from my father, who with another merchant of Bristol, named Hugh Elliot, were the discoverers of the Newfoundlands, of which there is no doubt (as now plainly appeareth) , if the mariners would have been ruled then and followed the pilot's [Cabot] mind, but the lands of the West Indies, from whence all the gold cometh, had been ours ; for all is one coast, as by the chart appeareth." 86 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. made him governor of the Russian company. He lived to the age of eighty-eight. In 1609, a colony of settlers from Bristol estab- lished themselves in Newfoundland; Mr. Guy, a common-council man of Bristol, undertaking to be their general leader. Another great nautical adventurer of this city, we find in the person of Captain Thomas James, sent out by the merchants of this port, in search of the north-west passage, in 1631 ; he wintered at Charlton Island, and during his voyage elucidated no inconsiderable part of Hudson's Bay. But the climax of its exhibition for public spirit and commercial enterprise was reserved for the present day, in projecting and carrying on to com- pletion, the Great Western, the Bristol and Exeter, and the Bristol and Gloucester Railways, (the latter is now amalgamated with the Birmingham and Gloucester and Midland Railway) ; in erecting and completing large and massive buildings, the Great Western Cotton Factory; and in being the first port to build a steamer (the Great Western), at an outlay of nearly £70,000 to cross the Atlantic from hence to New York, which has proved herself superior to every other in expedition and ac- curacy. Her size is equal to an eighty gun ship ; she has four masts, and her registered admeasure- ment 1,700 tons; length 236 feet; breadth from out to out of the paddle box, 59 feet ; and engines MODERN BRISTOL COMMERCE. 87 and machinery of 450 horse-power. She has four boilers, with ample room to walk between them ; each boiler holds 20 tuns of water, and weighs 24 tons. Her stowage room is arranged for the recep- ton of 800 tons of coal, in iron boxes, which is sufficient for twenty-five days' consumption ; and notwithstanding the necessarily large space devoted to the above, she has 136 berths for passengers, independent of cabins for officers and crew. The saloon is 63 ft. in length, by 32 in breadth, and is most splendidly fitted up in the style of the age of Louis Quatorze. The gigantic iron steamer the Great Britain, originally built as a companion to the Great Western, in her alternate voyages across the Atlantic, was floated out of dock on Wednesday, July 19, 1843, in the presence of his Royal High- ness Prince Albert, who condescended to accept an invitation on that occasion from the directors of the Great Western Steam Ship Company, and whose reception into our ancient and loyal city was most enthusiastic, triumphal arches being erected in various parts of the line of rout. This mag- nificent and splendid iron steamer is the largest ever built in Europe, and no doubt will prove the vast advantage of iron over wood in the power of buoyancy, in commerce, and in war. The weight of iron used in the ship and the engines is up- wards of 1,500 tons ; burden, 3,500 tons ; power, 88 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. 1,000 horse ; length, from figure-head to tafrail, 322 feet ; length of keel, 289 feet ; extreme width, 50 feet 6 inches, unincumbered with paddle boxes; depth of hold, 32 feet 6 inches, and when loaded draws about 16 feet of water. She has four decks ; the first or upper deck is flush, and measures 308 feet in length. The second deck consists of two promenade saloons, the aft or first class is 110 ft. 6 in. by 22 ft. ; and the forward or second class, 67 ft. by 21 ft. 9 in. They are well lighted and ventilated. The third deck consists of the dining saloons, the Grand Saloon being 98 feet 6 inches by 30 ft. ; and the second class, or Forward Saloon, 61 feet by 21 feet 9 inches. These saloons are all 8 feet 3 inches high, and surrounded with sleeping rooms, of which there are 26 with one bed, and 113 with two beds, giving 252 berths. These are, of course, the same height : and an improvement has been introduced which affords, by means of passages, much greater privacy than in any vessel heretofore built : — this is a great advantage. The fourth deck is appropriated to cargo, of which she can carry 1,200 tons, besides coals 1,000 tons. Underneath this deck, in the after- part of the ship, is an iron fresh-water tank, and in the fore-part is an air chamber from the boiler to the fore-bulkhead. MODERN BRISTOL COMMERCE. 89 The forecastle is appropriated to the officers and sailors' mess-rooms and sleeping berths; underneath are sail-rooms, &c. The middle part of the vessel, a space of 80 feet is occupied by the engines, boilers, engineers' room, and cooking department, which is over the boilers. There are three boilers, capable of con- taining 200 tuns of water, heated by 24 fires, and four engines, each of 250 horse-power. The cylin- ders are 88 inches in diameter, and the chimney is 8 feet in diameter and 39 feet high. She has six masts, all but the mainmast (which is 74 ft. above deck,) capable of being lowered upon the deck, like the masts of sloops, and carries about 5,000 yards of canvass. Her consumption of coals is about 60 tons per day. She is propelled by the Archimedian screw, on the plan of the patentee, Mr. F. P. Smith. Her draught of water when loaded willbe about 16 ft., and her displacement of water about 3,000 tuns. The deck planks are fastened to the angle-iron by screws from below, and firmly secured at each end to the vertical ribs, which affords a support to the sides in resisting both external and internal pressure, and are supported lengthwise by longitudinal beams and stanchions. To preserve the hull from spring- ing horizontally, there are diagonal tension bars placed between the angle-iron bars and deck planks. One of the most remarkable parts of the machinery is the wrought iron mainshaft, manufactured at the 90 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Mersey Iron Works. This is the largest shaft ever constructed, weighing about sixteen tons. Her pumps are worked by machinery, and are capable of throwing off 7,000 gallons per minute. The cost of the Great Britain is about £128,000. She finally left Bristol for London on Thursday, Jan. 23, 1845, where she lay for inspection till June, and thence, started for Liverpool, calling at Plymouth and Falmouth on her way; and again starting from Liverpool for New York in July, 1845, between which ports she is now a regular trader. The advantageous situation of Bristol as a com- mercial port cannot be surpassed, perhaps, either on the western or southern coast, for accommoda- tion and safety, especially since 1804, when at an expense of £600,000, levied on the inhabitants by a rate still payable, that great undertaking was commenced of converting the bed of the Avon into an immense floating dock, and the cutting of a new and capacious channel for the tide, commencing about a quarter of a mile towards Bath from the Cattle Market, and terminating at Cumberland Basin, Hotwells. This basin is very spacious, and was formed for the reception of the largest craft, as was Bathurst Basin, in the centre of the New Cut, for receiving the coasters. From Cumberland Basin the river Avon, at full tide, is deep and navigable down to Kingroad, where it joins the Severn; where 1,000 sail might MODERN BRISTOL — COMMERCE. 91 safely ride at anchor in all weathers ; and from whence a ship of 1,000 tons burthen might reach the Quay 30 in the very heart of the city, and its contents be transferred to Gloucester, London, Exeter, or elsewhere, in a few hours by railroad. But notwithstanding all its claims — its early commercial importance — its immense outlay in making a convenient and safe floating harbour, and its recent public spirit ; Bristol must necessa- rily yield to its powerful rival Liverpool in local advantages, viz. in its central situation, its proximity to the Irish coast, and its neighbourhood to Man- chester and to the great clothing districts of the north, into which it imports the cotton of the eastern and western hemispheres, and from which again it receives the manufactured fabrics that fill the markets of the world. The following tables, taken from the Report of the Chamber of Commerce published in February, 1846, will shew the state of the trade of this port up to January 5, 1846. It appears from the increasing 30 The Quay, from tlie stone bridge at the bottom of Small Street, to the old Bristol Bridge at the bottom of High Street, measures upwards of one mile in extent, and is one uninter- rupted wharf of stone. Its several portions are known by the names of the Quay, Broad Quay, the Grove, and the Welsh Back. There are several dock yards, for building and repairing of vessels, on the banks of the Froom and the Avon, of con- siderable magnitude, especially one near Cumberland Basin, formed bv the late firm of Acraman & Co, 92 CHILCOTT S BRISTOL GUIDE. number of removals of Foreign Goods from other ports to Bristol for the last six years^ that the demand exceeds the direct import, and consequently that foreign vessels are deterred from coming here on account of the port charges and want of back cargoes. These evils the citizens are strenuously endeavouring to remove by offering to purchase the Docks of the Dock Company, and taking into their own hands their future management, by which they hope to lessen the dues, add to the number of manufacturers, and consequently in- crease the trade of the port. An Account of the total number of Ships, icith their Tonnage, in- cluding their repeated Voyages, that have entered inwards and cleared outwards at this Port, with Cargoes, from and to Foreign Parts, in the year ending 5th January, 1846, distinguishing each Kingdom or State, and British Ships from Foreign. KINGDOMS OR STATES. Europe. Russia, Northern Ports... Black Sea Norway Sweden Denmark Prussia Holland Germany France Portugal — Proper . Azores . Spain — Proper . . INWARDS OUTWARDS. BRITISH. FOREIGN. BRITISH. FOREIGN. ships tons ships tons ships tons ships tons 40 8232 9 2285 3 757 1 312 1 367 6 1373 ... 1 153 1 382 1 84 6 722 1 143 18 3952 3 815 10 895 3 2 267 461 6 444 1 66 9 664 10 933 2 221 1 42 9 668 6 506 2 135 24 1535 23 1658 1 ... MODERN BRISTOL COMMERCE. 93 (Continued.) KINGDOMS OB, INWARDS. OUTWARDS. BRITISH. FOREIGN. BRITISH. FOREIGN. STATES. ships tons ships tons ships 2 3 4 tons ships tons Duchy of Tuscany. Naples and Sicily . AustrianTerritories 5 24 1 631 2649 159 "i 180 303 259 532 Gibraltar, Malta, & Ionian Islands... 13 1608 Turkey Sardinia 17 2422 'i 399 Greece 2 357 1 126 Africa. Coast 22 3640 14 2052 Mauritius ... 1 177 Asia. Calcutta 3 975 6 2420 Canton 1 388 America. Newfoundland — 8 904 9 963 Canada 45 26822 5 1285 New Brunswick ... 21 7418 2 1250 Prince Edward's Island ... 3 1191 1 186 Antigua 2 392 3 599 Barbadoes... 7 2291 7 2299 Jamaica 12 3581 12 3691 Nevis & St. Kitt's . 6 830 7 973 St. Yincent 3 1214 3 1214 Tobago 3 961 3 961 Trinidad ... 10 2455 8 2032 Demerara... 7 2521 8 2765 Honduras 2 758 Cuba 1 216 ... United States 4 1175 5 2482 3 1040 1 634 Chili 1 348 1 349 Peru 3 850 Jersey & Guernsey Total 14 360 791 69 io 122 584 9 82237 14254 26683 2220 Total inwards, 429 vessels — 96,491 tonnage; total outwards, 131 vessels— 28,903 tonnage. For the year ending the 5th of January, 1845, the returns were : — Total inwards, 402 vessels — 81,905 tonnage ; total out- words, 138 vessels — 28,516 tonnage. 94 CHILCOTT S BRISTOL GUIDE. An Account of the Exports, from the Port of Bristol, ofiheprinci* pal articles of British and Irish produce and manufactures in the year ending 5th January, 1846, compared with the Exports of the two preceding years, ending 5th January, 1844 and 1845. ARTICLES. 1844. 1845. 1846. £ s. d £ s. d. £ 5. d. Coal and Culm 4,462 15 { 3,388 4 3,567 6 6 Cotton Manufac. 40,550 34,534 16 34,352 13 ,, Yarn ... 50,840 48,000 30,766 3 Earthenware . . . 2,246 8 2,596 2,521 Glass 5,773 4 6,801 5,320 Hardware and Cutlery 604 434 591 Linen Manufac. 3,896 16 1,253 894 Metals, viz. — Iron & Steel ... 37,537 13 40,724 29,920 Copper & Brass 18,909 6 21,805 10 26,484 Lead 1,450 19 3,503 6 3,660 Tin, un wrought 47 566 15 460 Tin Plates ... 7,250 17 6,630 11 8,439 Salt 1,897 14 1,300 2,032 Silk Manufact. . 4,254 20 200 Woollen Manuf. 8,808 4,591 16 1,676 150,883 17 19 6 188,528 12 176,148 18 Removals to this Port of Foreign Goods from other Ports under Numbers of Removals. For the Years ending January 5th. 1841. 1842. 1843. 1844. 1845. 1846. 584 635 871 | 709 949 887 An Account of the Gross and Net Produce of the D UTIES oj CUSTOMS at this Port, in the Year ending oth January, 1846, compared with the Produce in the preceding Years, ending 5th January, 1842, 1843, 1844, and L845. Gross Receipt of Duties. Year ending 5th January, 1842. 1843. 1844. 1845. 1846. £ 1,046,800 £ 965,275 £ 996,750 £ 1,007,832 £ 919,149 MODERN BRISTOL — COMMERCE. 95 The chief dependence of Bristol upon its foreign trade is to the British plantations in the West Indies, to the various ports of Europe and the Ionian Islands, Africa, the Mauritius, East Indies, and China, as well as to Canada, and the British North American possessions, to the United States of North America, Newfoundland, &c. There is also a trade of some magnitude between Bristol and Ireland. The imports principally con- sist of woollens, linens, cottons, grain, flour, provi- sions, whiskey, porter, &c. &c, besides a large number of live stock. The exports from Bristol to Ireland are wrought iron, leather, raw and refined sugar, tea, tin plates, bottles, &c. &c. The follow- ing shews the number of Irish imports and exports ending January 5, for the years 1845 and 1846 : — 1845. | 1846. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. Inwards 547 88,668 Inwards 708 103,793 Outwards 310 69,050 | Outwards 324 78,029 The number of other Coasters, with their ton- nage, which have entered and departed from our Port for the years 1845 and 1846, are as follows : — 1845. 1846. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. Inwards 6,229 388,311 Inwards 5,334 290,524 Outwards 3,530 274,263 Outwards 3,114 209,307 The live stock imported into Bristol from Ireland,- 96 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. for the years ending in December, 1843, 1844, and 1845, are as under: — Horses. Pigs. Sheep. Cattle. 1843, 65,150 685 736 1844, 30,880 437 173 1845, 32,926 1,603 1,015 38 The Tides. — The changes in the state of tide in our Avon are very remarkable. At low water it has all the appearance of a wide muddy ditch, and incapable of floating a cock boat; at high water a ship of 1,000 tons may ride majestically on its surface from Kingroad to the Bristol Quay. Professor Whewell, in his observations on " The Theory of Tides" says, that "at the Port of Bristol the tides rise to a height of fifty feet, while to- wards the lower part of the channel they only rise to twenty, and along other parts of the coast not quite so high." The laws by which the tides are regulated have recently much engaged the attention of scientific men, and hence the interest taken in their develop- ment. At the suggestion of Professor Whewell a self-registering Tide Gauge was erected in 1833, at Hungroad, near the mouth of the Avon, upon the estate of the late Richard Bright, Esq. by the members of the Literary and Philosophical Society, and was kept in operation for several years. Subse- quently Mr. T. G. Bunt, a gentleman of this city, who publishes annually the Tide Tables for this - MODERN BRISTOL — MANUFACTORIES. 97 port, invented a self-registering Tide Gauge, con- sisting of a clock, a cylinder, a float, and a pencil. The cylinder is covered with a sheet of paper, and made to revolve once in twenty-four hours. The float causes the pencil to rise and fall with the tide, and describe curves on the paper, showing the exact time and height of every high water. A full description of this instrument, with engravings, may be seen in the Philosophical Transactions, and in the Encyclopaedia Metropolitana, under the article of Tides and Waves. It was erected in front of the Hotwell House, at the joint expense of the Corporation, the Dock Company, and the Society of Merchant Venturers, in the year 1837, and has been in operation ever since. The results of the observations made by it on lunar and solar influence, atmospheric pressure, &c. &c. are very interesting, and will be found in the reports of the British Association for 1841, &c. Manufactories. — The great facility of obtain- ing good coal at low prices in the immediate neighbourhood of Bristol, offer very great en- couragement for the multiplication of our manu- facturing establishments. Among the principal now established may be named the following : — Great Western Cotton Works. — The intro- duction of this source of prosperity into Bristol had long engaged public attention ; but it was not till 1837 that active measures were taken to effect H 98 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. it, by the association of several of the leading in- habitants of the city with an eminent manufacturer of Manchester. An immense pile of building, for the purpose of cotton-spinning and weaving, has been erected in the Out-Parish of St. Philip and Jacob, on the margin of the Avon, and the works are now in full operation; having engines of eighty-horse power each, and two of twenty each, constantly at work. The bleaching works are complete. The print annexed shows the mill where the cotton is spun into yarn. The room at the foot of the mill is the weaving room, where about 700 per- sons, chiefly young girls, are employed in making the yarn spun in the mill into cloth. The whole establishment is a perfect model of comfort and good arrangement, and employs about 1,700 hands. In the building to the left, all the looms and a considerable portion of the other machinery are made and repaired. There is also a large iron foundry erected, capable of turning off twenty tons per week, and from which all the machinery, made on the premises has been cast. The bridge erected over the Feeder, called St. Philip's Bridge, was cast and put together by this establishment. The Brass Works, originally formed at Baptist Mills, 33 at the distance of one mile to the north-east 33 So named because adults were formerly baptised in the Proom river, on the banks of which the works were built. MODERN BRISTOL MANUFACTORIES. 99 of the city, but now removed to Keynsham, were the first manufactory of that compound metal ever established in this country; the workmen being brought from Holland. It is either drawn into wire, or formed into what is termed battery, for the home or export trade. Dr. Watson, who was Bishop of LlandafF, speaking of Bristol brass, says, " it is quite free from knots or hard places, arising from iron, to which other brass is subject ; and this quality, as it respects the magnetic needle, renders it of great importance in making compasses for navigation." The firm is " Harford's and Bristol Brass and Copper Company." — Offices, Corn Street. There are two considerable Lead Works ; the proprietors of one are Messrs. Riddle & Co., Avon Street, St. Philip's ; — and of the other Messrs. Bayly & Co., at Easton, Gloucestershire : at each manufactory the lead is smelted from the ore, rolled, or cast into sheets. These firms also manu- facture white lead in great purity. The Bristol Patent Shot, manufactured on Pedcliff Hill, has obtained so decided a preference, on account of its rotundity, that it is in great de- mand at home and abroad. The patent for its manufacture was taken out by the late Mr. William Watts, 34 the predecessor of the present proprietors, 34 The discovery is said to have arisen from a dream by Mrs. Watts, the wife of the patentee. She told her husband that she had been engaged whilst asleep in making those diminutive globes, by dropping melted lead from a great height into a well of watpr beneath. 100 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Christopher George & Co., who also manufacture lead into milled and cast sheets, and patent lead pipes. Their lead smelting works are at Black Sworth, St. George's. The Soap manufactured in Bristol is universally esteemed. One of our MS. calendars has the fol- lowing notice : — " 124:2. This year grey soap was sold from the city to London, to one John Lamb, who retailed it at one penny per pound, and black soap at a half-penny per pound." The Iron Foundries and Wrought Iron Manufactories here are of considerable magni- tude, where steam engines, anchors of the largest size, chain cables, &c. are manufactured. The Spelter Works at Warmley are of con- siderable importance. Wine and Porter Bottles are manufactured on an extensive scale, by Messrs. Powell, Brothers, & Co. ; also by Messrs. Bicketts & Co., Avon Street, St. Philip's. Messrs. Lucas, Coathupe, & Co. have a manu- factory of Crown Glass at Nailsea. Their ware- house is in Nicholas Street, Bristol. There is also a considerable establishment at Temple Gate, for the manufacture of Flint Glass, which is of very superior quality. Strangers are admitted to inspect it by leaving their address at the counting-house. The Potteries are very extensive, particularly MODERN BRISTOL — MANUFACTORIES. 101 that known as " The Bristol Pottery/' situated on Temple Backs, under the firm of Pountney & Co. The ware manufactured here bears a strong resem- blance to that of the late Mr. Wedgwood, and forms an article of considerable export, in addition to the demand at home. The various processes of forming the ware, of glazing, printing, painting, and enamelling it, are very curious and interesting to the visitor. — Strangers are admitted on application at the counting-house. The Bristol Distilleries, for the rectifying of spirits, are extensively employed ; particularly in the article of Gin. The Bristol Sugar Refiners have superior methods, and their loaf sugar is accordingly much esteemed. The single refined sugars of Bristol obtain higher prices abroad than any others. Extensive premises are employed for the manu- facture of Tobacco and Snuff in this city. There are every large establishments here en- gaged in the manufacture of Hats. The superior excellence of the Painted Floor Cloth manufactured here, has excited universal admiration, having been invented and brought to the utmost perfection by Messrs. Hare, of this city. Pieces of twenty-seven feet in width, and one hun- dred and eighty in length, of the richest patterns, have been produced at their manufactory, near Temple Gate. 102 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. The Patent Chocolate and Cocoa manufac- tured by Messrs. Fry & Sons, of Union Street, has obtained considerable celebrity. There are several large establishments in the neighbourhood engaged in the manufacture of Pins. The travellers of the Bristol manufacturers and wholesale dealers visit all the western counties and principal places, from Southampton to the banks of the Trent in the north, as well as to South and North Wales, and the English counties bordering on the Severn and the Wye. Coal Fields, Geology, &c. — Bristol, as well as its vicinity, is in general supplied with coals from Kingswood, Bedminster, Ashton, Nailsea, Brisling- ton, and Coal-pit Heath, near the city ; although a large quantity is also imported from Newport, &c. The coal fields, watered by the Avon, extend from the vicinity of Bristol to the south and east for the space of thirty miles. The beds are few and thin, compared to those of Wales, War- wickshire, Staffordshire, Yorkshire, and Newcastle. Here the pits never penetrate through more than two or three veins. The coal field of Bristol is divided into a lower series of numerous alterations (probably fifty) of sand-stones, shales, and clays, with coal seams, and an upper series of similar deposits, with fewer changes, separated from the lower by thick sand- stone beds called Pennant The quantity of coal, MODERN BRISTOL GEOLOGY. 103 about 60 feet, equals or even surpasses that of the northern or midland coal field, yet far less profita- ble, on account of its being separated into a large number of small beds, in consequence of which not one half of the coal is available. The miners have penetrated to the depth of 200 fathoms at Bedmin- ster ; and at Radstock even to 250 fathoms. 35 But though the miner cannot realise a princely fortune, as in other districts, no country can be more interesting to the student with regard to organic remains, and to the variety and structure of its rocks and ores. Lead combined with cala- mine has been found in large nodules at Southmead, near Westbury ; and manganese occurs at Leigh and Mendip, in thin veins. About a hundred yards above Bedminster bridge, the earth called strontian may be seen at low water, in veins of five or six inches in thickness, and even sulphate of strontian has been found. It apparently refuses every vestige of pollution from the red soil with which it is thickly coated. "When the new course of the river was made, oak trees, deer's horns, boars' and other teeth, blue sulphate of iron formed in the clay, and beds of gravel, were found. The paucity of organic remains in sand-stone has been frequently remarked : at Nailsea, however, there is a large bed of sand-stone full of black 35 Mr. W. L. Sanders's Lecture on Geology, at the Philoso- phical Institution, Park Street, January, 1843. 104 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. marks, which indicate the remains of vegetable matter combined with oxides of iron. At Frenchay, a vein of coal has been found, a quarter of an inch thick, in the solid rock: the remains of animals have been found there. Lithophytes have occurred in the quarry at Brislington Common, not only small black marks, but broad leaves of the agce class : bamboo canes have been found. In this red sand-stone a remarkable formation of globular nodules (oblated, however, at the bottom, and on that account called (C hell moulds") is sometimes found in the heart of the rock, separated by a thick coating of oxides of iron. They are known to the colliers by fatal experience, for whilst the miner is working in an inclined position, which is always the case where the beds of coal are thin, the con- tinued strokes of his pick-axe gradually loosen the bell mould, which eventually drops out of its socket, and kills or maims him without the least warning. The ranges of mountain lime-stone no where discover themselves in bolder characters than at the Black Rock and St. Vincent's. The strata here succeed one another in more than a hundred couches, dipping eastward at an angle of thirty and sometimes forty degrees ; but at Henbury the dip is almost vertical ; while on the Mendip range it often becomes less than twenty degrees. In the MODERN BRISTOL — GEOLOGY. 105 rock opposite the mouth of the Avon, the dip is toward the west Beneath the lime-stone is the mill-grit rock, (amygdaloid, or plum-pudding stone). At the Pill landing place its stratum is level with the tide, and the whole village is built upon it. At Brandon Hill it again appears : and here it is so hard that it has been compared to porphyry. It is afterwards traced in different directions for many miles. This rock occasionally affords fluor spar. For a general view of our district the geologist is recommended to ascend the summit of Dundry Hill, about three miles from this city. Perhaps there is no other station in Europe which brings into view so rich a variety of formations, including so nearly the whole series of rocks, from the oldest transition to the newest secondary — from Grau- wacke slate to chalk — as the hills of Dundry, Men- dip, Quantock, Cheddar, &c. &c. The florid ferruginous character of the soil in the city and in the whole neighbourhood of Bristol (whence the names iiWcliff, iiWland,) has long been considered a strong evidence of the existence of iron ore, and about fifteen years since some of a very fine quality was discovered on the estate of Sir John Smyth, Bart., of Ashton ; subsequently large quantities have been raised at Winford and Wrington, Somerset, of the very best quality, and shipped for the iron foundries in South Wales. 106 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. THE GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY, whilst it presented, at the time of its formation, one of the greatest public works ever constructed in this or any other country, afforded a proof of what the enterprise of our capitalists and the extra- ordinary genius of its chief engineer (Mr. Brunei) could effect. The first contract in the London division of the line (the Wharncliffe Viaduct at Han well) was let on the 26th of November, 1835 ; and within the next six months, the rest of the contracts as far as Maidenhead (excepting about four miles near London) were also undertaken by responsible par- ties. In the Bristol division, the first contract let was a length of about two miles and three quarters, from the river Avon to a field in the parish of Keynsham, comprising a bridge over the river, and three tunnels. This work was commenced in April, 1836. The permanent shafts for the Box tunnel (twenty- eight feet diameter, and averaging two hundred and forty feet in depth) were let in September, 1836, but no portion of the tunnel itself was contracted for until September, 1837, and the larger part of it not until February, 1838. This stupendous work stands unrivalled for magnitude amongst works of its kind. The area of its section is about nine hundred square feet, its length three thousand two hundred yards, and it is perfectly straight, so that MODERN BRISTOL — GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY. 107 the light is visible through it from end to end. It occupied about three years to complete it; and upwards of twenty millions of bricks were used in the arching, besides a great extent of freestone walling. The whole expense of completing this tunnel was upwards of £200,000. It was as late as the autumn of 1839, before some of the important works on the line between Bristol and Bath could be commenced. The following summary of facts, collected from the published reports of the Company, may be deemed interesting, and are therefore inserted here : — PERIODS OF COMPLETION AND OPENING OF THE LINE, ETC. 1835. Aug. 31. Act received the royal assent. Nov. 26. The first contract let in the London division. 1836. Mar. 15. The first contract let in the Bristol division. 1837. July 4. Royal assent to Act for the extension from Acton to Paddington. Oct. 27. Special general meeting of proprietors, to authorise the borrowing of £833,333 in addition to capital, and of £1,125,000 in anticipation of calls. 1838. Jan. 10. First trial in running the engines near West Drayton. June 4. Opening to Maidenhead, 22| miles. 1839. Jan. 9. The adoption of the broad gauge confirmed by proprietors, by a majority of 1,647 votes. June 26. Special meeting to create new shares of £50, to the amount of £1,250,000. 108 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. 1839. July 1. Opening to Twyford, additional 8| miles ; total 30f . Nov. Chas. Russell, Esq. elected Chairman in place of W. U. Sims, Esq. deceased. Miles. Total. 1840. Mar. 30. Opening to Reading, additional 5 35f June 1. to Steventon 20f 56% July 20. to FarringdonRoad.. 7| 63f Aug. 31. from Bristol to Bath 11 J 75| Dec. 17. toWoottonBassettRoad 16| 92 Aug. 27. Resolution to create new shares of £20 each, to the amount of £750,000. 1841. Feb. 25. First dividend declared, at the rate of 3 per cent, per annum. The opening of the entire line anticipated in June of this year. May 31. Opening to Chippenham, additional 13J miles, total 105 J. June 30. Final opening from Chippenham to Bath, additional distance 13 miles, total length of line from Paddington to Bristol 118 ~ miles. The Oxford branch of the Great Western Rail- way was opened June 12, 1844. It branches out of the main line at the Didcot station, about 53 miles from London, and crosses the Thames twice on its route to Oxford, a distance of about 10 miles. Its cost in making was upwards of £150,000. BRISTOL AND EXETER RAILWAY.— That portion of the Bristol and Exeter Railway- line extending from Bristol to Bridgwater, a dis- tance of thirty-three miles, was opened for the MODERN BRISTOL — RAILWAYS. 109 conveyance of passengers and goods on the 14th of June, 1841 ; from Bridgwater to Taunton, July 1st, 1842; from Taunton to Beam Bridge, May 1st, 1843 ; and from Beam Bridge to Exeter, May 1st, 1844. There are eleven stations between the above cities, at which the trains stop (special trains ex- cepted) to deliver and take in passengers, merchan- dize, &c. viz. Nailsea, Clevedon Road at Yatton, Banwell, Weston-super-Mare, (to which there is a branch line) Highbridge, Bridgwater, Taunton, Wellington, Tiverton Road, Collumpton, and Hele to Exeter. This line is now continued by the South Devon Railway to Plymouth, on the same gauge, and on the atmospheric principle. BRISTOL AND GLOUCESTER AND COAL-PIT HEATH RAILWAY.— This Rail- way, which forms the connecting link between the north and west of England, was opened July 8, 1844. Shortly after its opening it was amalgamated with the Birmingham and Gloucester Railway, and subsequently both were purchased by the Midland Railway Company, to pay the shareholders in the united Birmingham and Bristol Companies at the rate of 6 per cent, per annum. There are six stations between Gloucester and Bristol, where the trains stop to deliver and take in passengers, goods, &c. viz. Yate, Wickwar, Charfield and Wootton- under-Edge, Dursley and Berkeley, Frocester and Stonehouse to Gloucester. 110 €i)uvci)ti, (ffijapete, & otljtv places of UtirineSBorSirip. THE CATHEDKAL, FORMERLY THE ABBEY OF ST. AUGUSTINE, OR MONASTERY OF BLACK REGULAR CANONS OF THE ORDER OF ST. VICTOR. The ecclesiastical History of Bristol is highly interesting, but is not a little confused through Chattertons inventions. To the Berkeley family, it seems, the chief foundations are owing ; others of earlier date, to Robert Fitzhamon, Earl of Gloucester. The reigning Earls of Gloucester, in the earliest periods, appear to have been Lords of Bristol Castle. Now Robert Fitzhamon was founder of the Abbey of Tewkesbury, and his inferior en- dowments were all subject to that abbey ; that abbey was subject to the control of the Bishop of Worcester ; and hence, if these circumstances be considered, many seeming discrepances can be reconciled. The patronage of the livings of Christ Church, St. James, St. John Baptist, St Mark, St. Michael, St. Paul, St. Peter, St. Philip and Jacob, and Temple, was at the disposal of the Corporation previously to the passing of the Municipal Corporation Act, the provisions of which compelled them to sell it ; consequently the presentation to each is now in the hands of different private indi- viduals, together with St. Mary-le-Port, formerly in the gift of the Duke of Buckingham. Four are in the gift of the Lord Chancellor; viz. St. Stephen, St. Thomas, St. Mary Redcliff, and St. Werburgh : three in the gift of the Dean and Chapter ; viz. St. Augustine, St. Nicholas, and All Saints : and the new churches, in the parishes of St. Augustine, Bedminster, Clifton, St. James, St. Paul, and St. Philip and Jacob, are in the gift of Trustees, and of the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, $c. The Cathedral was originally a Monastery, dedicated to St. Augustine, one of whose delegates, Jordan, in 603, came to Bristol, as a missionary THE CATHEDRAL. Ill from Rome, and was buried here. " Moreover/' says Mr. Seyer, in his Memoirs of Bristol, "I undertake to convince the reader, that not Jordan only, but Austin himself also preached here, and that his celebrated conference with the British bishops was holden on our College Green ; and I suppose that the monastery afterwards built there received its name as a memorial of that transaction* And this I say without partiality for him whom we call St Augustine, but induced by historical evi- dence alone." Again he says, " I know no place, the name of which has any relation to this confer- ence, except St. Augustine's Green, in Bristol, nor any place where a number of bishops from South Wales would so conveniently meet as in Bristol. And nothing is more probable than that the pious founder of the abbey gave it its name in memory of St. Augustine ; and that Harding, his father, named one of his sons Jordan, in memory of the preacher, Augustine's companion." Sir Robert Fitzharding, a descendant of the King of Denmark, created Earl of Berkeley by King Henry II., began the foundation of the Abbey of St. Austin, in 1140, and built the church and all the offices in six years' time; it was dedicated April 11, 1148, the said Sir Robert laying on the altar various title-deeds of lands in Gloucestershire. His tomb, a little to the east from the door, was repaired in 1742; it is enclosed with rails, having 112 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. two sculptured figures of himself and Eva his wife. Here also lies Maurice/ 6 Lord Berkeley, aged thirty-seven, who died at Berkeley, 1368, of wounds received at the battle of Poictiers. He was wounded by a sword that passed through both his thighs. It is stated that he remained a year in Picardy, at the house of the squire that wounded him, before he was well enough to return, and then paid six thousand nobles for his ransom. In the period between its foundation and disso- lution, five and twenty abbots 37 are named in suc- cession ; among whom was the good John Newland, alias Nailheart, 38 who on account of his great abilities, was often employed by King Henry VII. in foreign embassies. He beautified this church, 36 Barrett says it was Lord Thomas, son of Maurice, who was wounded at Poictiers. 37 The last abbot, Morgan Guilliam ap Guilliam, was charged with keeping six lewd women. 38 His arms display a heart pierced with three nails, which may be seen over the chancel of St. Augustine's church, to which it seems he was a benefactor. This device frequently appears among the ornaments of the cathedral; as does also the annexed monogram. THE CATHEDRAL. 113 and added many buildings to it ; wrote its history, and an account of the family of the Berkeleys, still in MS. 39 It is said that the apartments over the very beautiful Saxon archway, leading to Lower College Green, were erected at his expense, as well as one of the sculptured figures on the south side, designed to represent himself. An inscription on this archway says that King Henry II. and Lord Robert Fitzharding were conjointly the founders of the Monastery. Their statues and arms, and also those of Edward the Confessor and Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, appear on this archway, the latter two bearing in their hands title-deeds, and Lord Berkeley holding a model of the building, Pembroke's arms are also embla- zoned at the high altar, together with those of Lord Berkeley and Henry II. ; and hence it may be inferred that there was some religious establish- ment, which Edward the Confessor, and an Earl of Pembroke had endowed, previous to the splen- did erection of Sir R. Fitzharding. Chatterton makes Rowley say, "St. Austin's Chapel: Thys freemied pyle ytte is uncouthe to saie whom the same dyd ybuilde. But it mote nedes be eld ; sythence it was yn ruyn in the dayes of Wm. le Bartarde; The dribblette remaines wyll shewe its auncientrie and nice carvellynge. An 39 In "Wood's Athense Oxon. vol. i. p. 639, is a long account of him. I 114 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. auncient Bochord saieth Gooffrie a Norman car- veller dyd newe adorne the same in Edward Confessor's daies." To this account Barrett adds, " This chapel stood next the fine gate leading to the Lower Green." The gateway has been considered as the only vestige of the original structure ; and from its richly ornamented arches, has attracted much notice. The chapter-house, however, and part of the cloisters, are evidently Saxon, and most likely coeval. There is a tradition that the western part was demolished, at the dissolution of monasteries, in Henry VIII.'s time, and the materials sold and disposed of, be- fore that King had determined to convert it into a cathedral and a bishop's see. But as there is no record to this effect, others have thought it was never finished. The builders of churches gene- rally began at the altar or east part, which they used for religious services, till by degrees they could complete the whole. Whether they stopped this building after finishing the tower, is doubtful. It is said that Edmund Knowles (who was abbot twenty-six years) began building the present church anew from the ground in 1311, and that it was completed in 1363. There is great reason to believe that the building was actually finished, and extended one hundred feet more to the westward than at present. A large stone, at the end of one of the garden walls, evidently points out the extent THE CATHEDRAL. 115 of the whole building: and some remains of gothic arches beyond the tower still show that the church was once continued to the westward. King Henry VIII. having created this a bishop's see, 40 dedicated it to the Holy and undivided Trinity, and annexed the whole of the county of Dorset to its jurisdiction, (which was taken out of the see of Salisbury) part of Gloucestershire, and three churches or chapels, formerly in the see of Wells, making in the whole two hundred and fifty-six parish churches and chapels. It is, however, one of the smallest cathedrals in England; but it has a certain singularity in its interior construction, which produces a curious and picturesque effect. It consists of a neat choir, fitted up in the gothic order, with part of the nave and the two side aisles, all of equal height. Instead of arcs boutants, or flying buttresses, a complicated structure of crossing arches occupies the roofs, and supports, in their stead, the side walls of the nave. We know not of any other instance on this plan. The portraits in stained glass represent, Thomas Baron Berkeley, ob. 1313 ; Maurice Baron Berke- ley, ob. 1368; James Baron Berkeley, ob. 1464. In the great east window are the arms of the chief nobility who were the partizans of Edward IV. 40 This see is now joined to Gloucester, under one bishop, who is named Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol; but the county of Dorset is restored to the see of Salisbury. 116 CHILCQTT'S BUISTOL GUIDE. The first bishop was Paul Bush, of whom Anthony a Wood gives an account, vol. i. p. 99, Though our limits will not allow giving a regular list of the bishops who have filled this see, in chronological order, yet we cannot omit to mention the names of Seeker, Butler, and Newton, as among the most eminent in the republic of letters, who have presided over it. Bishop Warburton, author of the Divine Legation of Moses, was once dean of this cathedral. The liberal endowments and revenues of this church were very much impaired in the time of Queen Elizabeth^ when for thirty-two years to- gether it had no bishop; but was all that time held in commendam by the Bishops of Gloucester. It was esteemed, previously to its being united with the see of Gloucester, one of the least valuable bishoprics. When the bishop's palace was rebuilding, in 1744, a parcel of plate fell through the floor in the corner of one of the rooms, which by this accident was found to be decayed, and occasioned the floors to be taken up ; and, to the surprise of the work- men, an under-ground apartment was disclosed, which, from a great many human bones, and instru- ments of iron being found there, appears to have been used for the punishment of the refractory and criminals. At the same time was discovered a private passage to this dungeon, originally con- THE CATHEDRAL. 117 strueted with the edifice, being an arched way, just large enough for one person to pass at a time, made in the thickness of the wall : one end termi- nated in the dungeon, and the other in an apart- ment of the house, which to all appearance had been used as a court ; but both the entrances were walled up, and so concealed, that no one could sus- pect it to be any other than one solid thick wall. In what is called the Elder Lady Chapel, and which contains the tomb of Fitzharding, a device appears, that has occasioned some comment ; while the shepherd sleeps, a wolf is devouring the sheep ; — a ram meanwhile is playing a sort of fiddle, using a remarkably long bow. Now the invention of the fiddlestick is dated whole centuries after the time of building our church. 41 41 This account of the sculptured figures, still to be seen as above quoted, has been repeatedly published, with a suggestion that some important moral if not religious inference was in- tended by the design. Dr. Stukely, however, in his account of similar ornaments to be found in the cloisters of Magdalen College, Oxford, concludes them to be " whimsical figures, which serve to amuse the vulgar, but are only the licentious inventions of the mason:" just in the same light these ornaments in the Elder Lady Chapel may be regarded. There are several, which we will endeavour to particularise: the ram is playing his ribble — but the shepherd asleep is nowhere to be seen — in his stead an ape is perceived, (assuredly it is an ape) either playing upon the syrinx, or else about to drink. In his left hand he bears a sort of thyrsus. These jolly companions may be conceived to be a satire on the representations of Apollo and 118 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. The great east window is of stained, and the two windows at each end of the side aisles are of enamelled glass, on which various pieces of scripture history are delineated ; these are said to have been presented by the celebrated Ellen Gwynne. The ascent to the altar is by steps of black and white marble. The organ, which is said to be very Bacchus (or Pan.) The animals below are more like a eat with a mouse, than a wolf devouring sheep : at all events, they have no connection with the figure just mentioned, any more than the fox and goose, in the other compartment, have to do with the dwarf who is contending with an eagle. In short, they are no more than specimens of grotesque, (or arabesque) which is plainly evinced in another instance, where a ram or goat has got the body of a rabbit or hare, suspended on a stick, thrown over his shoulder — the body of the goat terminates in a scroll or foliage, as does also the thyrsus of the monkey before alluded to. There is another ape's head to be seen in the chapel. In one of his letters to Horace Walpole, Chatterton says, " Nothing is so much wanted as a history of the violin: Rowley proves the use of the bow to be known to the Saxons,, and even introduced by them." THE CATHEDRAL. 119 excellent, was built by subscription of the principal inhabitants of this city. Indeed, it has been ob- served, that there is no other church in England, where the music of the organ, and the voices of the choristers united, produce so grand and melodious an effect; creating in the soul those ecstasies of holy delight, which raise it in idea from earth to heaven, exulting in the purest adoration of praise and thanksgiving to the divine Creator. Above the communion table, at the bottom of the great east window, are a variety of painted arms, with the letters W. B. interspersed, for Wil- liam Burton, the abbot, 43 who is said to have built the altar-piece. On each side are two large shields of arms — King Henry II.'s and Lord Berkeley's on the right ; King Henry II.'s and Clare's, Earl of Pembroke, on the left. In Several places in the choir, are the letters T. W. twisted together in a cypher, which some suppose to have been placed there in compliment to Cardinal Wolsey^but the truth is, they were meant for Thomas Wright, who, in 1541, was appointed receiver-general of the 42 His device is a tun, with a tree springing from the bung hole. 43 This supposition arose, probably, from the appearance of the cypher, having something like the strings and tassels usually attached to the hat of a cardinal. Wherever the cypher appears, it is accompanied by a remarkable sort of character, monogram, or merchant's mark, in which we think may be found H. K. T. W. and D. H. ; intended perhaps as a mystic memorial of the joint exertions of the above Thomas Wright and his royal master. It 120 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. chapter, at their first foundation, and had the ordering of their officers, and fitting up this church for a cathedral; who took care to set up his cypher in all parts, as Abbots Newland and Elliott 44 had done before him. In 1683, George Williamson, B. D. sub-dean, presented a brass eagle to the cathedral, which was sold in 1802, for the alleged purpose of making an addition to the sacramental plate. It was pur- chased by William Ady, Esq. and presented by him to the church of St. Mary-le-Port. In 1712, John Rumsey, Esq. presented to this church a pair of large silver candlesticks, very high and weighty, which cost him one hundred and fourteen pounds. They were taken, in 1790, by the Duke and Duchess ships of war, in their expedition to the South Seas, at Paita, by the famous Captain Woodes Rogers. The monuments in this cathedral are very numer- ous and interesting, but our limits will only enable us to notice a few of the most striking. We will is worthy of notice, that in one of the side aisles, King Henry VIII.'s arms are placed immediately between these two devices. V 44 The arms of Elliott— in chief two mullets pierced* THE CATHEDRAL. 121 begin with those of Mrs. Draper, near the entrance, (said to be the Eliza of Sterne) for the beauty and sentiment of its sculpture, executed by Bacon ; and of Mary, the wife of the Rev. William Mason, (who died at the age of twenty-eight, March 27, 1767) for its inimitable and affecting inscription. The lines were written by the husband of the deceased, and are known far and wide ; but as they can never be too highly appreciated we repeat them : — Take, holy earth, all that my soul holds dear ; Take that best gift which heav'n so lately gave ; To Bristol's fount I bore with trembling care Her faded form ; she bow'd to taste the wave, And died. Does youth, does beauty read the line ? Does sympathetic fear their breasts alarm ? Speak, dead Maria ; breathe a strain divine : E'en from the grave thou shalt have power to charm. Bid them be chaste, be innocent, like thee ; Bid them in duty's sphere as meekly move ; And, if so fair, from vanity as free, As £rm in friendship, and as fond in love — Tell them, though 'tis an awful thing to die, (Twas e'en to thee) yet the dread path once trod, Heav'n lifts its everlasting portals high, And bids " the pure in heart behold their God." Just within the rails, by the door, on the right of the entrance, is a neat marble monument, to the memory of the Rev. Samuel Love, on which the following epitaph is inscribed, from the pen of the late Mrs. Hannah More : — 122 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Sacred to the Memory of the Rev. SAMUEL LOVE, A. M. Fellow of Baliol College, Oxford, and one of the Minor Canons of this Cathedral, who died October 18, 1773, Aged 29. When worthless grandeur nils the embellish' d urn, No poignant grief attends the sable bier ; But when distinguish' d excellence we mourn, Deep is the sorrow, genuine is the tear. Stranger ! shouldst thou approach this awful shrine, The merits of the honour' d dead to seek ; The friend, the son, the Christian, the divine, Let those who knew him, those who lov'd him, speak. Oh ! let them in some pause of anguish say, What zeal inspir'd, what faith enlarg'd his breast ; How soon the unfetter' d spirit wing'd its way From earth to heaven — from blessing to be blest. This monument is erected by some intimate friends of the deceased, as a testimony of his worth and of their esteem. At the entrance of the south aisle is a small chapel built by the sixth Maurice, Lord of Berkeley, called the Lady Chapel, to distinguish it from the Elder Lady Chapel in the north. In this chapel are three ancient tombs; on one is an in- scription to the memory of Sir Richard Newton and lady, of Barr's Court, in the County of Glou- cester, who died December 13th, 1444, and with his lady lies interred beneath this monument. 45 45 This monument was defaced in the civil wars : it was repaired by Mrs. Archer, a sister to Sir Michael Newton, of Barr's Court, in 1748. THE CATHEDRAL. 123 On another is a record to the memory of Sir Henry Newton, of Barr's Court, who died in 1599, and over the third tomb are two tablets commemorative of Sir John and his lady Grace. In the same aisle is also a monument, by Chantry, to the memory of Mrs. Elwyn, wife of the late W. B. Elwyn, D. C. L. Resignation is por- trayed in the person of a beautiful female figure, with the following inscription : — Mariae uxori Carissimse anno setatis Vicesimo Quinto Ereptae, Gulielmus Brame Elwyn, D. C. L. infelicissimus posuit. Ob : Die Martii XVIII. A. D. MDCCCXVIII. in Crypta Sti. Michaelis in hac urbe Ecclesise Jacet Sepulta. On entering the choir, from the southern aisle, there is a stone in the pavement with the following inscription : — H. S. Reverendus admodum in Christo Pater Josephus Butler, LL. D. EEujus qui primo Dioeceseos Deinde Dunelmensis Episcopus. Qualis quantusq. Vir erat Sua libentissime agnovit iEtas ; Et siquid Prsesuli aut Scriptori ad famam valent Mens altissima ingenii perspicacis et subacti Vis Animusq. pius, simplex, candidus, liberalis, Mortui haud facile evanescet Memoria. Obiit Bathonise, XVI. KAL. Jul. A. D. MDCCLII. 124 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. A few years since the sum of £100 was raised by subscription for the purpose of erecting a more suitable monument to so distinguished a divine and scholar. It is of fine Painswick stone, with white marble slabs for the reception of the follow- ing inscription, from the pen of Mr. Southey ; — Sacred to the memory of JOSEPH BUTLER, D.C.L. twelve years Bishop of this Diocese, afterwards of Durham, whose mortal remains are here deposited. Others had established the historical and prophetical grounds of the Christian Religion, and that sure testimony of truth which is found in its perfect adaptation to the heart of man. It was reserved for him to develope its analogy to the Constitution and Course of Nature ; and laying his strong foundations in the depth of that great argument, there to construct another and irrefragable proof: thus rendering Philosophy subservient to Faith, and finding in outward and visible things the type and evidence of those within the veil. Born, A. D. 1692 ; Died, 1752. There is a finely-executed monument in the north aisle, by our late townsman, E. H. Baily, It. A. A female figure, in a devotional posture, is kneeling on a marble pedestal ; and on a tablet beneath is inscribed, THE CATHEDRAL. 125 Sacred to the memory of Harriet Isabella, wife of John Middleton, Esq. of Clifton, and daughter of John Venour, Esq. of Wellsbourne, in the county of Warwick, who died on the 13th day of May, 1826, and whose remains were interred in the burial ground of this church, by the side of her mother. She was a woman of artless manners and unaffected piety, which were habitual, and supported her in the hour of dis- solution. The calmness of her death, as an evidence of the sincerity of her religion, animates her surviving friends with the consolatory hope that she is numbered among the blessed which die in the Lord. A neat marble monument has been erected to the memory of the Eev. Dr. Gray, the last Bishop of this diocese previously to its being annexed to the see of Gloucester. It is as follows : — In the burial ground adjoining to this Cathedral Church lie the remains of KOBEUT GRAY, D. D. Sometime rector of Bishop Wearmouth, lately a prebendary of the Cathedral church of Durham and Bishop of Bristol, Who died on the 28^ day of Sept. in the year of our Lord, 1834, in the 73rd year of his age and eighth of his consecration. Distinguished in the early part of his professional life by learning and piety, He was afterwards not less remarkable for an able discharge of the duties of the episcopal office, Combining with diligent attention to the ecclesiastical con- cerns and liberal support of the charities of his diocese, 126 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. A zealous devotion to the general interests of the Established Church. This monument has been erected to his memory by the clergy and laity of this city and neighbourhood, In testimony of the affection of his person, respect for his principles, and admiration of his firmness and fortitude. In the cloisters lie the remains of that excellent native artist and royal academician, Bird. A remarkably fine bust of Eobert Southey, the poet, by E. H. Bailey, R. A., has been recently placed in one of the ancient monumental recesses in the north aisle, nearly opposite the back of the choir pulpit. It is raised upon an octangular pedestal of grey marble, with gothic panelling, and a boldly-moulded base and surbase. The bust is of beautiful white marble, and the shoulders are gracefully covered with broad-folded drapery. The inscription on the dado of the pedestal is, 33om in ^Bristol October IF., JOT&OTXXEF, BtetJ at lUstotcii JStarcf> XXS, JSnB&CMXICIlElL A singular story is told of a robin, which for fifteen years inhabited this cathedral, and received its subsistence from the hand of the verger. During the time of divine service, it usually perched on one of the mitres of the organ, and accompanied the solemnity with offering up its harmonious praise. The following beautiful lines on this little do- THE CATHEDRAL. 127 mestic songster were composed by the Rev. S. Love, whose epitaph, &c. we have noticed : — Sweet social bird ! whose soft harmonious lays Swell the glad song of thy Creator's praise, Say, art thou conscious of approaching ills ? Fell winter's storms — the pointed blast that kills ? Shunn'st thou the savage north's unpitying breath ? Or cruel man's more latent snares of death ? Here dwell secure; here with incessant note, Pour the soft music of thy trembling throat. Here, gentle bird, a sure asylum find, Nor dread the chilling frost, nor boist'rous wind. No hostile tyrant of the feather' cl race Shall dare invade thee in this hallow'd place ; Nor, while he sails the liquid air along, Check the shrill numbers of thy cheerful song. No cautious gunner, whose unerring sight Stops the swift eagle in his rapid flight, Shall here disturb my lovely songster's rest, f Nor wound the plumage of his crimson breast. The truant school-boy, who in wanton play, With viscid lime involves the treach'rous spray, In vain shall spread the wily snare for thee, Alike secure thy life and liberty. Peace, then, sweet warbler, to thy flutt'ring heart, Defy the rage of hawks, and foils of art ; Now shake thy downy plumes, now gladlier pay Thy grateful tribute to each rising day ; While crowds below their willing voices raise, To sing with holy zeal Jehovabus praise ; Thou, perch'd on high, shalt hear th' adoring throng, Catch the warm strains, and aid the sacred song, Increase the solemn chorus, and inspire Each tongue with music, and each heart with fire. 128 ST. MARY KEDCLIFF. 46 " Next Radcleve Chyrche, oh worke of hand of heaven ! Where Canynges sheweth as an instrument, Was to mie besmarde 47 eyn syght newlie given ; Tis past to blazon ytt to good contente ; Ye that would fayne the fetyve48 buyldyng see, Repayre to Radcleve and contented be."— Rowley. This church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and is built on a red sandy rock or clift, — from which it derives its name — with stone dug at Dundry, about four miles and a half from Bristol. It is allowed to be the finest parish church in Eng- land ; and is, as Chatterton calls it, " The pryde of Bristowe and the Westerne Londe." To this stately edifice there are three principal entrances by a flight of steps of Purbeck stone, viz., a north, 46 Both St. Mary Eedcliif and St. Thomas churches were originally chapels to Bedminster, and now, together with Ab- bots' Leigh, form but one vicarage. Mr. Britton, the architectural antiquarian, says, "The ecclesiastical history of Redcliff may be considered peculiar, if not truly singular. It constitutes part of the parish of Bedminster ; it is in the diocese of Bristol, and is a prebend to the cathedral of Salisbury. This prebend com- prehends Bedcliif, with the parishes of Bedminster, Abbots' Leigh, and St. Thomas ; yet the parochial regulations are held distinct. The living of Bedminster is both a rectory and a vicarage ; and as prebend, the incumbent is patron of all the other livings. He is nominated by the Bishop of Salisbury. Previous to the year 1247, Bedcliif and the Temple-fee were vested in the Knights Templars.' ' 47 Curious. 48 Beautiful. \ > '**- \ ST. MARY REDCLIFF 121) west, and south door. The tower, which is richly ornamented by a variety of carved work, is nearly two hundred feet in height, has a noble peal of ten bells, and formerly contained a lofty steeple. On viewing the outside of this church, its appearance is majestic and venerable ; and on entering it, its lofty vaulted roof, which is all of stone, and every where carved with devices and ornaments of curious workmanship — its long middle aisle, terminated by the chancel and the altar — its noble pillars, which are inimitably wrought into the most delicate mouldings — and indeed, the exquisite beauty and lightness of the whole fabric, excite feelings of ad- miration and delight, and instinctively, as it were, awe the mind into a devotional feeling. There are four palpable varieties of Christian architecture in Redcliff church, manifesting as many architects, and as many different times when they were respectively designed and erected. The inner north porch, or vestibule, — the tower and spire, — the outer north porch, — the body of the church, with the lady chapel, and the south porch, — we feel assured were built successively ; and it is generally admitted, that an older church was removed to give place to the present nave and chancel, with their aisles, and the transept. The oldest of these members, L e> the vestibule, is of a date between a. d. 1200 an 1230. "In 1207, Lord Eobert de Berkeley granted to EeclclifTe K 130 CHILCOTT's BRISTOL GUIDE. church, at the request of William, the chaplain, his fountain of water from Huge Well, for the friars of St. John the Baptist in Redcliffe." Lands were conferred on the same church, about that time, plainly shewing that there was one then in the parish. The tower and spire we may safely refer to the reign of Edward I., as corresponding with known specimens of that age. According to the chronicles of Bristol, Simon de Burton, who was mayor in 1293, " began to build the church of St. Mary de Redcliffe, when John Lamyngton was chaplain :" (Evans's Chronological Outline). Seyer, in his " Memoirs of Bristol," (vol. II. p. 77) from MS. calendar, more cautious and particular, says, " It was about the year 1293 or 1294, that Simon de Bourton, a person of wealth and consequence, who was mayor of Bristol in that year, and bore the same office six times, built the church of St. Mary B-edcliffe, where the eastern end now is." Here we find it positively stated by one writer , that the church was built, and by another that it was begun, at the above date. Britton says, " it is quite clear that no part of the present church is so early as 1294. That the greater portion of it is to be ascribed to Wm. Canynge, Junr., may be safely inferred by the testimony of written documents, and the architectural features of the building; and that the Staffords, Berkeleys, Beauchamps, Montacutes, and others, contributed towards the ST. MARY KEDCL1FF. 131 building there can be no doubt, from their armorial bearings and devices being placed on many of the bosses of the ceiling." Barrett (p. 570) says the church was probably not finished before the year 1396, which is more than a century after it was commenced by Burton. This conclusion of Barrett arose, perhaps, from the difficulty of making rapid progress in great under- takings at so early an era, as well from the want of money and efficient workmen, as from the many difficulties arising from the elaborate and ornamental nature of the Gothic workmanship employed in this church. But the principal reason for believing that the building was not finished till the above date is, that several wills, dated about the year 1380, state that money was left " for the fabric, and towards repairing the church of Redcliff;" and among others, the will of John Muleward contains a gift in money " ad opus Beatce Maria de Radcleve" which Barrett justly regards as a proof that the work was going on at that time. Wyrcester bestowed upon the examination of this singularly fine church, more of his care and time than upon any of the rest ; and his mensura- tion will be found to be more generally corres- pondent with the modern. The following very minute and mason-like account was probably com- municated by Norton, the master-mason, who is mentioned as having been consulted by our author. 132 CHILCOTT's BRISTOL GUIDE. " The tower of Redclyff contains a diameter of 23 by 24 feet. Its height is 120 feet, and with the spire, as it now remains broken by a storm, is 200 feet high. The diameter, at the top of the fracture, is 16 feet, and it has eight panes or sides. Every stone at the beginning of the spire is two feet thick, but at the top of the fracture only four inches. The diameter of the c garlonde' [the parapet round the summit] where the cross is placed, is eleven feet. Thickness of the walls at the foundation is seven feet, and five at the top of the tower. " The dimension or proportion most artificially wrought in freemason work of the western porch of Redclive church. Width seven feet, height nine feet. The square in the dome. ' The west dore fretted yn the hede with great gentise and smale, and fytted with entayle, with a double moolde, costly don and wrought.' " These four proportions in both. A champ ashlar [a water-table] of ashlar-work; a cors, wyth an arch buttant [a flying-arch] ; a botterasse. A body boterasse [a buttress against a wall], and a corner botterass." He likewise measured the interior, with Norton, the master-mason. " The whole length of the church of St. Mary Redclive is 63 yards, exclusive of Our Lady's chapel. The breadth is 18 yards; total 231 feet. The said chapel 13 yards, one foot and a half by 21 feet. ST. MARY KEDCLIFF. 133 " The length of the first gate or north porch is seven yards, and the chapel continued from the gate of entrance, is six yards more. "The height of the arched and fretted vault (voltse frettse archuatse) of the nave and aisles, and likewise the aisles of the transept from north to south, is 80 steps from the ground, from informa- tion given me by the plumber, on the 7th of Sept. 1480, each step containing eight inches at least. The length of the transept 67 paces. The aisles are 26 paces. The chapel of the north porch con- tains in circumference 44 yards, and is ornamented with the statues of the kings, (cum ymaginibus regum operatis subtiliter in opere de freestone.) " Between each pillar and arch there is a space of 10 feet. The transept has eight arches : every window in the 6 ovyr-storye' has five glazed divi- sions, and is 10 feet wide ; and those in each aisle have three. There were six bells in the tower, the largest of which weighed 70241b. avoirdupois, and the smallest 13001b. weight. " The ( sevaree' [square space] between every two windows opposite of the nave, is 22 ft. by 16." In the years 1445-6, about St. Paul's tide, 100 feet of the steeple were thrown down during a violent storm of thunder and lightning, and falling upon the body of the church, it became almost a ruin. To the " everlasting prayse" of that worship- ful man William Canynge, who undertook to repair, 134 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. enlarge, and beautify the edifice, founded by his ancestors, we behold this fine church nearly all complete. The steeple was not rebuilt ; — a fortu- nate circumstance, perhaps, since the lightning, but a few years since, dislodged some large stones from the top of the tower. The organ, erected in a stone gallery at the west end of the middle aisle, measures in height, from the ground to the top of the middle pinnacle, fifty- three feet, contains upwards of one thousand speak- ing pipes, and is for compass and richness of tone rarely equalled. A beautiful gothic screen to the front of the gallery, corresponding in architectural character to the whole building, was erected in 1841, chiefly by the spirited exertions of Mr. W. Ringer, one of the then churchwardens. Sir ¥m. Penn. 49 — Over his monument were three long streamers and a suit of armour, which was worn by Admiral Sir William Penn, of Bristol, father of "William Penn the Quaker, the founder 49 In September, 1845, the remains of "William, the great grandson of Sir William Penn, was removed from London and interred in the same vault with his relative, according to his own direction. To accomplish this it was necessary to raise the effigies of Sir William, when it was discovered that the lid of the coffin was loose, and the body was consequently exposed to view, but the face was so decomposed that no feature could be traced. The corpse appeared to be about 5 feet 8 inches in length, and was that of a stout person. Sir William was buried in the year 1670, at the age of 49. ST. MARY REDCLIFF. 135 of Pennsylvania, in the United States of North America. In the cross aisle is a large brazen eagle, formerly used as a reading desk: the gift of Mr. James Wathen, of this parish, pin maker. The altar is decorated with a picture by Tres- ham, presented by Sir Clifton Wintringham, Bart, in 1792 ; the subject is Jesus raising the daughter of Jairus to life, beside three others by Hogarth. The floor of the chancel is laid with black and white marble, and the altar is approached by steps of the same material. The altar and chancel were repaired in 1757. The church was newly pewed and beautified by brief, in 1709. It was again repaired, and the pin- nacles on the south side rebuilt in 1796. Seep. 147. In one of the windows of the north transept are some fragments of ancient stained glass, which ap- pear coeval with the church. On one piece six women in a boat are represented, possibly alluding to a particular event connected with the church. There are also some diagrams, arms, and letters, which probably mark certain benefactors who con- tributed towards finishing the fabric. Figures of the virgin and child, with crowns on their heads, are comparatively perfect. In the same transept is the baptismal font now in use. It is of white marble, beautifully con- structed, wrought, and polished : the floor on which 136 CHILCQTX'S BRISTOL GUIDE. it is placed is elevated, paved also with marble, and enclosed with mahogany rails. The font was purchased in 1755 for £171. The gothic architecture of the northern porch has been much admired. It contains some little pillars of stone called Dumb Organs, which when struck have some resemblance in sound to that instrument. There is a large bone preserved at the west end of the church, which is said to have been a rib of the dun cow, slain by Guy, Earl of Warwick ! ! The mayor and corporation go in procession to this church on Whit-Sunday; on which day it was the ancient custom to strew the pavement in the sacred edifice with rushes. This vicarage is connected with Abbots' Leigh, Bedminster, and St. Thomas ; and is in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Salisbury, of which cathedral the present incumbent is a prebendary. The revenues of this church were much wasted during the commonwealth: not only the church estates, but the structure itself did not escape the ravage ; the populace tore down many of its orna- ments, and all the lofty pinnacles round the church which were curiously carved, and added much to its external beauty — while on the inside they stole the brass plates from the monuments, broke down the fine organ, and getting together the prayer- books and homilies, and even the bibles, cushions, cassocks, &c. they made a bonfire of them, as the ST. MARY 11EDCL1FF. 137 funeral pile of the church ; and parading with streamers made of the surplices cut into flags, and tooting upon the organ pipes, they marched in triumph through the streets. It has been said, that during the civil wars the church was garrisoned, and had a battery of cannon placed upon its walls. At the southern extremity of the transept are some monuments of peculiar interest ; of which the first is a plain altar-tomb, supporting the recumbent figure of a priest in sacerdotal robes, with a large scrip, or pocket, attached to the left side. An angel is placed at his head, and a dog, with a large bone in his paws, at his feet. There is no inscrip- tion upon it, to mark decidedly the person to whose memory this monument has been erected. Mr. Cole states it to be a third tomb of ¥m. Canynge; tradition, however, assigns it to his purse-bearer or treasurer. Under a large canopy, beneath the centre win- dow, is an altar-tomb of stone, supporting the re- cumbent effigies of William Canynge, 50 and Joan io h y[ r Lort mentioned, that calling on the Bishop of Nor- wich, and talking with his lordship on the great qualification of Mr. Canynges, his merits to the town of Bristol, and the kingdom in general — the Bishop made answer, that if he had not pre- vented it, the inhabitants of that grateful parish had thrown out the monument of its so worthy benefactor ! ! ! " — Gentleman's Magazine, August, 1806." 138 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. his wife. The first is dressed in mayor's robes, and the second according to the fashion of the times. The inscription on the back of this tomb is as follows :• — Mr. William Cannings ye Richest Marchant of ye town of Bristow Afterwards chosen 5 times Mayor of ye said town : for ye good of ye Comon Wealth of ye same : He was in order Of Priesthood 7 years : & afterwards Dean of Westbury, & died ye 7th of Novem. 1474 which said William did build within ye said towne of Westbury a Colledge (with his Cannons) & the said William did main- tain by space of 8 years, 800 handy crafts men, besides carpen- ters and Masons, every day 100 Men Besides King Edward the 4th had of ye said William 3000 Marks 51 for his peace To be had in 2470 tons of Shiping these are ye names of his Shiping with their burdens onnes. tonnes. 400 yeMaryBatt 220 500 ye Little Nicholas 140 900 ye Margaret 200 150 ye Catherine Boston . . 22 140 A Ship in Ireland 100 51 The case was this, King Edward IV. having his necessities amply supplied by Mr. Canynge, granted him. in lieu thereof two thousand four hundred and seventy tons of shipping, free of all impost, as appears by the original instrument, now in the exchequer. ye Mary Canynges ye Mary RedclhT . . ye Mary and John ye Galliot ye Katherine ST. MARY REDCLIFF. 139 No age nor time can wear out well-woon fame the Stones themselves a stately work doth shew from fenceless graue we ground may men's good name And noble minds by ventrous deeds we know A Lanterne cleer sets forth a candle light A worthy act declares a worthy wight the buildings rare that here you may behold to shrine his Bones deserves a tomb of gold the famous Fabricke that he here hath donne Shines in its sphere as glorious as the Sonne. What needs more words, ye future World he sought And set ye pompe and pride of this at nought heaven was his aim, let heaven be still his station that leaves such work for others imitation. In this monument, which is painted throughout, Maistre Canynges is represented in his magisterial robes. There is also another monument to his memory, of white marble, where he is attired in the priestly habit as Dean of Westbury. Of Maistre Canynges, Rowley tells us the follow- ing amiable anecdote : — King Henry VI. offered Maistre Canynges the right of coining, which he refused; whereupon Galfridus Ocamlus, who was with Maystre Canynges and myself, said, " Naie, bie St. Paul's Crosse, hadde I such an offre I would coyne lead, and make ne law hyndrynge hinds taking it." " No doubt," said Maystre Canynges, " but youd dispende heaven to gette goulde, but I dispende gould to gette heaven." Not far from the monument of Mr. Canynge is the following inscription, in old characters, on a flat 140 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. stone :— " Hie jacet Gulielmus Coke in servitiis Willielmi Canynge cujus animae propitietur Deus." A large knife and skimmer are engraved on this stone; by which it would appear that he was Canynge's cook. There is another monument near the above : — " Hie jacet Johannes Blecker, pandoxator, cujus animae propitietur Deus." This was probably another servant, the brewer to Canynge. Attached to a column, in the south transept, is a small marble tablet, commemorative of Maria, wife of W. Barrett, F.S.A., Surgeon, and author of the History and Antiquities of Bristol. Sir Joan Inyn Miles, 1439. — In St. Mary's Chapel, on a flat stone, is the figure of a man, in Judge's robes, engraved on a brass plate; the folds, which appear turned up, are done in a different metal, to represent the lining of the vestments. On the margin is inscribed — " Hie jacet Johannes Inyn Miles capitalis justiciarius Domini regis ad placita coram ipso rege tenenda, qui obiit xxiiii die Marcii, Anno Domini Millesimo cccc.xxxix. cujus animae propitietur Deus. Amen." Under the figure are these lines : — Juste Deus paciens judex miserere Johannis Inyn qui jus faciens Miles fuit ejus in annis : Urbe recordator fuit hac Baro scac'oque Summus, et in banco judex capitalis utroque ST. MARY REDCLIFF. 141 Justitiam valuit connexam cu~ pietate, Militiam coluit subnixam nobilitate : Juste J~hx fortis Miles jam propitiatus Esto, fores mortis sibi claudae remitte reatus. Underneath are his arms. In the north transept is a handsome mural mar- ble monument, erected in 1835, by subscription, with the following inscription : — Sacred To the Memory of NATHANIEL BRIDGES, D. D. Vicar of Willoughby and Hatton, [Warwickshire] and for 28 years Lecturer of this Parish. He died the 17th July, 1834, aged 86 years. In him were combined Those inestimable qualities which Render social intercourse delightful and make public ministrations a blessing. Gospel simplicity, deep uniform piety, unremitting zeal for the spiritual interests of the people, and unbounded benevolence, were his distinguishing characteristics. Firmly attached to the established Church of England, he yet rose superior to party prejudices, and loved all who loved his Master. In him The church of Christ Has lost a faithful, laborious, and successful minister 142 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Marble will moulder, monuments decay, Time sweeps memorials from the earth away ; But lasting records are of Bridges given, The date eternity, the archives heaven, There living tablets, with his worth engraved, Stand forth for ever in the souls he saved. Against a pillar to the right of the organ loft, and facing the south door, on a marble tablet, is the following inscription : — To the Memory of SIR FRANCIS FREELING, BARONET, who was born in this parish, August 25th, 1764, and who diedatBryanston Square, in the county of Middlesex, on the 10th of July, 1836. For more than half a century his life was devoted to the public service, in the GENERAL POST OFFICE, in which, for thirty-eight years, he discharged the arduous duties of Secretary. By unwearied industry in the employment of great talents, and by unblemished integrity, grounded upon Christian principles ; he acquired and retained the favour of three successive sovereigns, and the approbation of the public. He has left a name which will be remembered with honour, in his birth place, and which is cherished with affection and veneration by his children, who have raised this monument. ST. MARY REDCLIFF. l4o There is a small marble slab at the north-east angle of the transept, on which is inscribed the following lines from the pen of Mrs. H. More, to the memory of Mrs. Fortune Little, late of this parish, who died June 28, 1777, aged 57 : — Oh ! could this verse her bright example spread, And teach the living while it praised the dead : Then, reader, should it speak her hope divine ; Not to record her faith, but strengthen thine ; Then should her every virtue stand confess' d, 'Till every virtue kindled in thy breast : But, if thou slight the monitory strain, And she has liv'd to thee at least in vain, Yet let her death an awful lesson give ! The dying Christian speaks to all that live ; Enough for her, that here her ashes rest, 'Till God's own plaudit shall her worth attest. The lovers of the sublime and beautiful in art, and the connoisseurs in ecclesiastical architecture, have now an opportunity of visiting this splendid old edifice free of any charge whatever, as it has been thrown open to the public by order of the vicar and churchwardens ; and it will give those visitors, who with a feeling of sorrow witness the breaches which time has made here, an opportunity of voluntarily contributing, according to their means, to its repairs. Some very ancient grave stones and monumental brasses have been discovered in the churchyard, in the course of lowering the ground round the church. 144 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. The Chatterton memorial, lately erected by sub- scription, and placed in the enclosed spot at the north-west angle of the churchyard, between the tower and the north porch, was removed in the beginning of the year 1846, for the purpose of levelling the ground ; and at present no place has been chosen for its re-erection. To those who are unread in the Rowleyan controversy, the following brief account of the discovery of the MSS. cannot fail to be acceptable. Over the north porch there is a kind of muniment room, in which were deposited six or seven chests ; one of which, in particular, was called Mr. Canynges' cofre, and about the year 1727, a notion prevailed that some title-deeds and other writings of value were contained in it. An order of vestry was in consequence made, that the chest should be opened, under the inspection of an attorney; and that those writings which appeared to be of value should be removed to the south porch of the church. The locks were therefore forced, and not only the prin- cipal chest, but the others also, which were supposed to contain writings, were all broken open. The deeds immediately relating to the church were re- moved, and the other manuscripts were left exposed as of no value. Considerable depredations had been committed upon them by different persons , but the most insatiate of these plunderers was the father of Chatterton, who though a schoolmaster, ST. MARY REDCLIFF. 145 nevertheless was ignorant of their value or of their contents. The sexton of St. Mary Reclcliff, being a relative, gave him free access to the church, whence he carried off, from time to time, parcels of the parchments : and one time alone, with the assistance of his boys, is known to have filled a large basket with them. They were deposited in a cupboard in the school, and employed for differ- ent purposes, such as the covering of copy books, &c. At his death, the widow, (then pregnant with our unfortunate poet) being under the necessity of removing, carried the remainder of them to her new habitation. Some years elapsed : young Chat- terton was put to school, but returned to his mother " as a dull hoy, incapable of improvement" He afterwards gained admission into Colston's Charity School ; on leaving school he was articled to Mr, Lambert, an attorney. About this time, whilst on a visit to his mother, one of these parchments, which had been converted into a thread paper, caught his eye ; and his attention being arrested with the appearance of the characters, he began to question his mother what those thread papers were; how she got them, and whence they came. Upon further inquiry, he was led to a full discovery of all the parchments which remained; the bulk of them consisted of poetical and pother compositions, by Mr. Canynges, and a particular friend of his, Thomas Rowley, whom Chatterton at first called 146 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. a monk, and afterwards a secular priest of the fifteenth century. Such at least appears to be the account which Chatterton thought proper to give, and which he wished to be believed. It is, indeed, confirmed by the testimony of his mother and sister: they say that he was perpetually ransacking every corner of the house for more parchments, and carried away those he had already found by pockets full : that one day happening to see Clarke's History of the Bible covered with one of these parchments, he was very angry, and stripping the book, put the cover into his pocket and carried it away ; at the same time stripping a common little bible, but finding no writing upon the cover, he replaced it again very leisurely. Perrot, the old sexton, who succeeded Chatterton's great uncle, accompanied Mr. Shiercliff, a miniature-painter of Bristol, in 1749, through Eedclrff Church, showed him in the north porch a number of parch- ments, some loose and some tied up, and intimated " that there were things there which would one day be better known, and that in proper hands they might prove a treasure." The city authorities have lately removed all the old houses by which the view of this beautiful edi- fice to the north and north-east was completely obscured, and enclosed the ground belonging to the church with iron rails. They have also caused the dangerous hill to be levelled, and built a new ST. MARY REDCLIFF. 147 street (Phippen Street), connecting RedclifF with. Thomas Street. Meanwhile the parish authorities have not been idle ; they have issued a very spirited appeal, drawn up by Messrs. Britton and Hosking, for the complete restoration of the tower and church to their pristine architectural elegance. To ac- complish this upwards of £40,000 will be necessary. This appeal has produced a subscription list of nearly £7,000, and the Committee of Eestoration have proceeded in their undertaking — by lowering the ground round the church to the depth of from two to four feet ; which being accomplished, the ceremony, which was a very imposing one, of laying the foundation stone of the restoration in the eastern part of this venerable structure, took place on Tuesday, April 21, 1846. The inscription on the stone reads thus : — THIS STONE IN Restoration OF ST. MARY REDCLIFF CHURCH, was laid on the 21st day of April, A. D. 1846, by the RIGHT WORSHIPFUL JOHN KERLE HABERFIELD, Esquire, THREF. TIMES MAYOR OF BRISTOL, ASSISTED BY THE ANCIENT SOCIETY OF FREE MASONS, The Right Worshipful Henry Shute, Esq., Provincial Grand Master, The Right Worshipful William Done Bushell, Esq., Deputy Provincial Grand Master, In the presence of the Clergy, Corporation, and Citizens of Bristol. Martin Richard Whish, A. M., Vicar. Thomas Proctor, Chairman of the Restoration Committee. John Warry, Junr.,) Churchwardens , John Hare, > John Br.tton, F^A > Archi(ecbi Geoege Godwin, F. R. S., > 148 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. ALL SAINTS, OTHERWISE ALL-HALLOWS, Stands nearly opposite the Council House. Of the great antiquity of the original building there can be no doubt, since it is on record that in 1066 Hardinge, who was then governor of Bristol, re- moved the Kalendaries 53 from Christ Church to All Saints, where they kept their records for ages. 53 A guild or fraternity, calling themselves Kalendaries, re- markable, first, for being the only society of the name on record ; and, secondly, as a coalition of the clergy and laity, whose ob- ject was to record events and preserve the necessary documents, existed here, some say before the year 700 ! ! They met the first Monday in every month, but their labours, alas ! are lost to society by reason of a most unfortunate fire in 1466, which de- stroyed a valuable library, and other documents they had from time to time collected, "through the carelessness of a drunken point maker :" but Robert Ricaut, a kalendary and town clerk here (18th K. Edw. IV.) did " devise, ordain, and make for a remembratif ever hereafter," by command of the then mayor, (Spencer) " the Maire of Bristowe is register, orellis the Maire is kalendar" which is now carefully preserved in the town clerk's office. It is a thick folio, in good preservation, well written, partly on vellum and partly on paper, ornamented with rude portraits of the kings, and several other paintings of the same kind. About the beginning of Henry VII.' s reign the hand- writing changes, and the chronicle is continued by different persons nearly to the present time. Beside the calendar, it contains the form of choosing the mayor, &c. with the ceremo- nies and oaths used on that occasion, which is the most valuable part of the book, and a very curious painting representing the ceTemony. Several other chronicles, containing many local ALL SAINTS. 149 In equal obscurity as to date is the erection of the present structure; but most probably it was immediately after the fire in 1466, which destroyed the library and the greatest portion of the old church. The present church was repewedin 1757. The tower, which is remarkable for the cupola, ball, and cross, that surmount it, was begun in 1716, and finished in 1721, at a cost of £589, raised by voluntary subscription. The church of All Saints was early appropriated to the monastery of St. Augustine, and continued under its patronage till the Reformation, at which time the Dean and Chapter became its patrons, and have continued so ever since. It is divided into three aisles. The compartments of the pulpit are most elaborately carved with a crown, angels' heads, trumpets, &c. Previously to the dissolution, this church con- tained several altars, which were particularly rich in their crucifixes, both of gold and silver, adorned with rubies and other precious stones. Rich vest- ments also of velvet, silk, gold and silver fringes, events, mixed up with general records, are to be found in Bristol, in private hands ; these have been well examined, and heir contents published. — See "The Calendars of Al-Hal- lowen, [Ail Saints] Bristowe. An Attempt to elucidate some Portions of the History of the Priory, or Fraternitie of Calendars, &c, by the Rev. Henry Rogers, M. A., Vicar of that church," just published. 150 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. mass books, curtains, and other relics of great value, belonged to this church. Upwards of 423 ounces of plate, consisting of crosses, censers, chalices, patens, bells, &c. were taken from it at the general pillage of religious houses, in 1549, and removed to the mint, where it was coined into money. The altar piece, " The Salutation of the Virgin, 55 was painted by Simmons. The monuments here are numerous and interest- ing : but our space will only allow us to copy that to the memory of Edward Colston, Esq. by Eys- brach. The inscription enumerates his public charities — to mention which may well exclude all further panegyric. 1691 An Almshouse on St. Michael's Hill, for twelve Men and twelve Women £8500 Six Sailors to be maintained in the Merchants' Almshouse, King Street 600 1696 A School for forty Boys, in Temple Street 3000 1702 Rebuilding Boys' Hospital, in College Green .... 500 For adding six Boys thereto . . 1500 And to the Mint Workhouse 400 1708 A Hospital for a Master, two Ushers, a Catechist, and one hundred Boys, on St. Augustine's Back 40,000 For the Apprenticing of Boys 1200 To several Charity Schools £10 each, per annum, when living, and for twelve years after his death. To repairing of different Churches in Bristol 1230 For reading prayers at All Saints every Monday and Tuesday Morning 140 For twelve Sermons at Newgate 120 For fourteen Sermons in Lent 400 ALL SAINTS. 151 IX LONDON. To St. Bartholomew's Hospital £2500 To Christ Church Hospital 2000 To St. Thomas's Hospital 500 To Bethlehem Hospital 500 To the New Workhouse, without Bishopsgate 200 To the Society for propagating the Gospel 300 To the Company of Mercers 100 IN SURREY. At Sheen. — An Almshouse for six poor Men built and endowed. At Mortlake. — Clothing and educating twelve Boys and twelve Girls 900 To eighty-five poor people at his death 85 IN LANCASHIRE. Towards Building a Church in Manchester 20 To eighteen Charity Schools in several parts of England, for many years after his death, £90 per annum. To the augmentation of sixty small livings 6000 Besides the above legacies, he left more than £100,000 to be divided among his relations. He died at Mortlake, in Surrey, October 11, 1721, aged 85 years ; from whence his remains were re- moved, and interred in this church. Mr. Colston was a most successful merchant : he never insured a ship, and never lost one. His crest was a dolphin, which tradition says he as- sumed, from the circumstance of a fish of that species having providentially stopped a leak in one of his ships at sea, by getting into the aperture. Whilst the churchwardens were lowering the 152 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. high mahogany-topped pews, and effecting other alterations in this church, September, 1843, the remains of that philanthropic and charitable man, Edward Colston, Esq. were found deposited in the family vault, in the south aisle. The face was covered with a sheet, quite strong and perfect ; on the removal of which the features were discovered so perfect as to be readily recognised, having all the appearance of tranquillity and sweet repose* His cravat and shirt exactly corresponded in make and form with the appearance of those on the monument above the vault. The whole was sacredly and immediately closed and replaced ; a leaden plate being soldered on, inscribed — " Ed- ward Colston, 1721." Under the first pew, on the right hand, coming in at the north door, lie the remains of Sir John Duddlestone, Bart., and Dame Susannah his wife. He was an eminent tobacco merchant, in the house fronting the south side of St. Werburgh's tower, the back part of which is now called Shannon Court. It is said that when Prince George, of Denmark, arrived in this city, Mr. Duddlestone was the first person who invited him to his house ; and in return, Queen Anne, on the prince's arrival in London from Bristol, created Mr. Duddlestone a knight, and afterwards gave him a baronet's patent, January 11, 1691. 153 ST. AUGUSTINE THE LESS. This church was founded by the Abbots of St. Augustine's Monastery, as a chapel for the accom- modation of the inhabitants who had erected houses and lived without the clausum or precincts of the convent. It is mentioned in Gaunt's deeds, in the year 1240. It was rebuilt, according to William Wyrcestre, in 1480; and has been considerably enlarged in subsequent periods, and particularly at its eastern extremity. Galleries have also been erected, and an organ placed at the west end, the gift of the late Henry Cruger, Esq., M. P. for Bristol in 1774 and 1784. The church is a plain fabric, has three long aisles, and is neatly pewed. The chancel is spacious, and the ceiling is richly ornamented, representing six of the apostles in oval frames, composed of sculptured leaves and flowers. The upper part of the window on each side of the altar, contains fragments of ancient stained glass ; and in the mutilated remains may be traced portions of the arms of Abbots Newland and Elliott. Among the mural monuments in this church is one at the east end of the south aisle, to the memory of Edward Shier cliff, the author of the first Bristol Guide, published in 1789. Some short time since, a very handsome oak pulpit, in the Gothic style, was erected in this church, at the expense of two parishioners, Messrs. 154 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Rogers and Jeffery ; and very recently an elegant baptismal font in pure marble was placed here, at the expense of E. J. Staples, M. D., one of the churchwardens. The pews in 1843 were re-arranged and lowered in height, for the greater comfort and convenience of the parishioners. The Carmelites (or WhiteFriars) had a consider- able establishment in this parish, occupying all the ground from the Red Lodge, down the hill, to St. Augustine's Back, now Colston's School. The following eminent characters belonged to this priory: — John Milverton, who, for opposing the bishops, was committed prisoner to the Castle of St. Angelo at Rome, for three years. John Stow, an ingenious poet, soon after the time of Chaucer. John Spine, doctor and professor of divinity at Oxford, a noted preacher and writer. John "Walton, D. D., prior in King Henry VI.'s time. Nicholas Cantilupe, D. D., of Cambridge. John Hooper, who went abroad after the dissolution of Monasteries, and getting acquainted with some of the Reformers, on his return was made Bishop of Gloucester, and was burnt by the Roman Catholics Feb. 9, 1559, in the time of Queen Mary, before the west-end gate of his own cathedral, for what they termed heresy. Eleanor, Duchess of Buckingham, 1530, be- queathed her heart to be buried in the Grey Friars' CHRIST CHURCH. 155 Church, London, and her body in the White Friars' Church, Bristol. CHRIST CHUKCH, OTHERWISE ST. AUDEN, OR, ST. OWEN. The original church is said to have been coeval with the origin of the city. Indeed the dates of 1003 and 1004, formed of lead, and let into a stone near the top of the spire, which was found there when it was repaired in 1765, seem to establish the fact that a church was erected here at the above early date. The removal of the Kalendaries also from Christ Church to All Saints' Church in 1066 is another proof of its then existence. The old church (perhaps the third or fourth from the foundation,) was taken down in 1787, and the present structure was finished and opened for Divine worship in 1790. Its interior is divided into three aisles of equal length, and tastefully decorated, in accordance with the modern style in which it is designed. Over the altar is a beautiful window of stained glass, by Egginton, of Birmingham, which repre- sents the figures of Moses and St. John. Behind the organ is an object of some interest to the antiquarian, in the shape of an old heavy oak chest: it was originally secured by three locks; and no doubt at one time contained deeds, plate, meney, and other valuables belonging to the church. 156 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Among the monumental inscriptions deserving particular notice are two brass plates, placed on either side of the vestry door. One to the memory of Richard Standfast, chaplain in ordinary to King Charles L, who for his loyalty to his sove- reign suffered sequestration for fourteen years, and returned to Bristol on the restoration of Charles II. He was rector of this church for fifty-one years, and also a prebendary of the Bristol Cathedral. It is a remarkable fact, that although he was blind for more than twenty-one years, he performed the church service exactly, and discharged the office of an able and orthodox preacher. The lines in- scribed on the brass plate were composed by him- self, as taken down from his own mouth a few hours before his death. The other brass plate is to the memory of Thomas Farmer, mayor and alderman, and also his wife, who both died in November, 1624. It is recorded of him that in 1616 he went through the city trying the weights and measures ; and butter being that year very dear, he purchased it from ships outward bound, which he sold in the market at a reduced price. We must not omit to mention that in this church repose the remains of the original founder of the Bristol Infirmary, John Elbridge, Esq., who also bequeathed £3000 to endow a charity school for 24 girls, in St. Michael's parish. He died in 1739. ST. GEORGE. 157 In the account of the disbursements of the pro- curator of Christ Church for the year 1534, is this entry, viz. — Item : For Ryngyen agenste the comen of the byschop of Canterbyrre [Cranmer the Martyr] to chorche iiij d . A flying dragon is the form of the weather-vane, copied from the old church; respecting which there are some fanciful conjectures. 54 The Litany was first sung in English in 1543, in a procession from Christ Church to St. Mary Redcliff. The ancient church of St. Ewen stood on the opposite corner of Broad Street, but was taken down and the parish incorporated with Christ Church, in 1787. In the south aisle of St. E wen's was a chapel dedicated to John the Baptist, and belonged to a fraternity called the Master, Wardens, and Society of Merchant Tailors, consisting of brethren and sisters. This guild was erected and the chapel founded in the time of Richard II. who granted them a charter, confirmed by King Henry IV. ST. GEORGE, BRANDON HILL. The church dedicated to St. George, erected in 54 A flying dragon is seen upon a bend in the Merchant Ad- venturers' arms. 158 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Great George Street, Park Street, in 1823, has been made parochial, the parish of St. Augustine being divided for that purpose, and is in the gift of the Dean and Chapter. This church contains nine hundred free sittings ; the minister's income being chiefly derived from the rental of the pews by the more opulent parishioners. ST. JAMES. The priory to which this church belonged was founded by Robert Rufus, natural son of King Henry I. who was made Lord of Bristol in 1109, and was buried in the church in 1147. It was of great extent, reaching from the west end of the present church, or Whitson's Court, to the barton of St. James. In 1753, what was deemed the re- fectory was then standing. The prior had a char- ter, confirmed by King Henry II. enabling him to hold a fair, and also the prisage of wines coming to the port of Bristol, from twelve o'clock the Saturday before the feast of St. James to the same hour the Saturday following ; namely, four pence per hogshead. The church was built and consecrated in 1130, made parochial and the tower added in 1374, at an expense to the parishioners. It is said that Robert Fitzhaymon, when building the castle, set aside every tenth stone to be employed in its original ST. JAMES. 159 structure. It consists of a nave, eighty-four feet in lengthy thirty-one in height, and twenty-nine in width between the massive piers which support five arches, and divide the north and south aisles from the nave. The nave and north aisle are parts of the original Norman church. The south aisle, originally of the same character, was removed in 1698, to make way for a wider one of the late perpendicular style, at an expense to the parish of £600. The east end of the nave is occupied by a Corinthian altar screen, by monuments, and by a large painting of the transfiguration put up in 1768, when the church was re-pewed and two spacious galleries were erected. The chancel is destroyed, and its place occupied by a house erected against the present east wall of the church, and by the avenue called Canon Street. Notwithstanding all the alterations which had been made for the convenience of the parishioners, it was found necessary, in 1804, to add a third gal- lery over the south aisle, for the accommodation of the increasing congregation who attended the parish church. The galleries now occupy three of its sides; and there is an upper gallery at the west end, in which a very fine and richly-toned organ is placed ; with forms on each side for the Sunday school children. The church being thus crowded with galleries 160 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. and high seats, which form an obstruction, not only to the light and ventilation of the building, but also render it very difficult in the back seats, behind the low heavy Norman arches, to hear distinctly either from the reading desk or the pulpit. The west front, formerly the grand entrance, affords a fine specimen of Norman architecture. The reason it has remained so long nearly un- noticed, is owing to the many buildings immedi- ately surrounding the north and west side of the church, and which appear to have been erected so long ago as 1666/ 5 perhaps earlier. Much has been said respecting the origin of the pointed arch: it will be here seen at each end, produced almost by accident. The round window above is a very rare specimen, and is worthy of particular regard : — at present some lover of anti- 65 The house immediately adjoining, which has a private entrance to the church, has two shields over the doorway, with the initial letters T E A 1666. This, most probably, was the resi- dence of the Edwards family, whose monuments are to be found in the church, and benefactions recorded. Close by is a spaci- ous house, formerly the residence of the Pope family ; the staircase, walls, and corridor of which are extremely well painted in large, in many compartments ; the subjects are, Mercury and two cupids playing with doves ; Venus and Mars ; a colossal figure of Hercules ; a large historical piece, in which a venerable old man, kneeling, surrounded with females, lays a sword and casket of jewels at the feet of a warrior; boys, fruit, and flowers ; a trophy of arms ; Minerva and Diana. ST. JAMES. 161 quity might easily copy it, otherwise time will de- vour all its traces, as the zig-zag work, in many places, is barely perceptible. The following wood cut represents the west elevation of this church, as far as it can be seen ; the door-way itself is entirely hid, and the round arch over it can only be viewed from an exalted situation : the adjoining cut gives some idea of the window. The Chronological Outline of Bristol says, that the monumental effigy of Robert, Earl of Glouces- ter, who is said to have been buried here in 1147, was discovered in 1818, having been concealed behind the pews. The figure is now placed in the south wall, with a modern inscription on a brass plate, with the Earl's arms — three spear rests. A close inspection of the effigy, however, must raise M 162 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. a doubt whether it is not intended to represent a lady : not to mention that a solitary ring is placed on the wedding finger, the statue holds the robe, which descends from the shoulders, in such a lady- like way, that renders it difficult to believe we behold that robust and redoubtable warrior — the terror of Stephen, and the idol of the rude soldiery of those days. Though sometimes, we believe, great men were represented in monks'" habit on their tombs, to denote that they died in the " odour of sanctity;" — we humbly conceive in this instance that is not the case. There is also on the south side of the altar a very handsome monument, erected to the memory of Sir Charles Somerset and his lady Emma. Sir Charles is represented in armour, kneeling at an altar, and opposite to him his wife, in the same posture, and hehind her an only daughter, also kneeling: it is a spacious lofty monument, adorned on each side with Corinthian pillars, and embel- lished at the top with the arms of the family in a large shield. Sir Charles died March 11th, 1598, and Lady Emma in 1590. My body earth, my breath was borrow' d ayre, My dated lease expired years of strife, My soul with stamp of God, temple of prayer, Dissolved by death, mounted to glorious life : Life was but lent conditional to dye, Death made the period of mortalitye, And gave me entrance to eternitye. ST. JAMES. 163 A monument, by E. H.Baily,Esq.,to the memory of the Rev. Thomas Tregenna Biddulph, M. A., has been erected immediately outside the com- munion rails, against the wall, to the right of the altar. It consists of a plain pedestal of veined marble, supporting the Bible, -on which rests an animated bust of the deceased, in his clerical robes. The pedestal bears the following inscription : — This Monument was erected as a public testimony of Veneration for the memory of The Rev. Thomas Tbjegenna Biddulph, M. A., Thirty-eight years Incumbent of this Parish ; The pastoral duties of which he discharged with irreproachable zeal, faithfulness, and ability. He died the 19th of May, 1838, In the 76th year of his age. Princess Eleanor, the Demoisell of Brittany, was buried here after forty years 5 confinement in Bristol Castle; — by order of King Henry III. her body was removed to the nunnery of Ambresbury, Wilts, to which she had been a benefactress. Two friaries formerly existed in this extensive parish : — one house of Franciscan, or Grey Friars ; the other of Dominican, or Black Friars. Whilst the order of Grey Friars flourished, the custody of Bristol had nine convents under it, and each friary 164 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. had a common seal : this of Bristol had St. Anthony, of Padua. Its site was in Lewin's Mead, where the Unitarian Chapel now stands. Some of our Calendaries say, that in 1226, St. Francis himself, the founder of the order, came to Bristol; he probably established this house of Friars Minors, as it is asserted that he founded the nunnery of Laycock, in Wiltshire. The Dominican, or Black Friars' House stood where the Friends' Meeting House is now built, between Rosemary Street and the Broad Weir ; a sort of court close by is still called " The Friars." " In King Henry VIII.'s time, Master Haber- dyne, master pryour of St. Jamys, preaching at Oxford against the doctrines of Latimer, and at the same time dancing the puppets of Christ, and Peter, and others, the pulpit gave way ; and on his complaint, the churchwardens told him that they had made the pulpit for preaching, and not for dancing." Such strict observers of the Sabbath were the people of this parish, in the year 1679, that at a vestry meeting four persons were judged guilty of a most heinous crime, and were cited in the spi- ritual court, fox " purloining the Lord's day," in travelling to Bath on foot ; to the great dishonour of Almighty God and true religion: for which they confessed their sin in the said court, and paid twenty shillings for the use of the parish. 165 ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST, AND ST. LAWRENCE. The church of St. John consists of but one aisle, and is the smallest in Bristol. It was founded by Walter Frampton, who had been thrice mayor. He was buried here, and his effigy, clothed in a robe or gown over a coat of mail, is on the north side of the altar. The date on his tomb is 1357. At the entrance of the church, underneath the boards that cover the floor, are the effigies, cut in brass, of Thomas Rowley and his wife ; the latter died in 1470 — the former in 1478. An ancient ornamented hour glass stands upon an iron bracket in the vestry. These glasses were formerly attached to the pulpit, to regulate the time for the delivery of the sermon. Near this is a mutilated figure with a crown upon its head, but whom it represents is not known. The tower stands upon an archway, which con- tained a gate of the old city: the channel, in which the portcullis used to traverse, may still be seen. On the south side of the tower are quaintly "car- veiled" two venerable figures, intended to represent the brothers Brennus and Belinus, said to have been the original founders of the city. This church has recently undergone considerable alterations and repairs. 166 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Two arches were formed in 1828, for foot pas- sengers, on either side of the gateway. The western arch, on the right side entering from Quay Street, exhibits on a corbel, at the spring of the arch, a warrior's head ; and on the left, a bishop's, carved on freestone. On the inner side, the ciphers G. R. and C. B. denoting that the church is protected by the royal and civic, by the military and ecclesias- tical authorities of the state. The eastern arch is also ornamented with corbels. The tout ensemble of the three arches has a light and graceful appear- ance, rendering that spot which for ages continued unsightly and dangerous, ornamental and safe. The church of St. Lawrence, which stood imme- diately to the west end of the archway, was sold and taken down in 1580, when the parish was in- corporated with St. John's. The arch at the end of St. John Street, on which a house is built, was also a gateway belonging to the old city wall. A Singular Bequest. — Coronation of George IV.—" Mr. J. Farr, of the parish of St. John Baptist, Bristol, on the 19th July, 1821, pre- sented to the Rev. ¥m. Mirehouse, curate, and to the vestry of this parish, a silver goblet, in com- memoration of the coronation of his Majesty King George IV. which took place this day. Also twenty-five guineas, the interest whereof to be ST. MARY-LE-PORT. 167 given as follows, viz. Five shillings for wine at the election of churchwardens every year, to be drank out of the aforesaid goblet ; and twenty shillings a year to be given to the women residing in St. John's Almshouse, on the 11th of December, ex- cept there should be a coronation in such year,, and then the women are to receive the twenty shillings on the coronation day." ST. MARY-LE-PORT, It is said, was founded by William, Earl of Glou- cester, about 1170, in the time of Henry II. It has two aisles, and stands on a rising ground above the Avon. Formerly there was a gradual descent from this church to the river, where ships discharged their cargoes, and whence it took the name of Mary of the Port. The roof, which was richly ornamented before it was daubed over, is supported with six freestone arches and seven pillars, neatly fluted and painted. The church has been lately cleaned and repewed, at an expense of about £500 ; nearly one half of which has been raised by private subscription. The altar-piece is inscribed at the top in Hebrew characters : — Jehovah our Alehim is one Jehovah. In March, 1814, upon sinking a vault near the vestry, in the north aisle, under a mural monument, which has always been called the tomb of William 168 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Little, the Bristol grammarian, a corpse was found in a remarkably perfect state of preservation, being chiefly converted into the substance called adipo- cere. It was erroneously said to have been the body of Mr. Yeamans, 56 a sheriff of Bristol, and one of the persons executed in Wine Street, for conspiring to deliver up the city to King Charles I. The heart is deposited in the late Mr. R. Smith's anatomical museum, at the Infirmary. The brazen eagle, which formerly adorned the cathedral, reposes here, by the liberality of the late Mr. Wm. Ady,with an inscription which records its history, and directs it to remain here for ever. It stands on a globe supported by a massy pedestal, with four lions at its base, and is altogether seven feet high. It weighs six hundred and ninety-two pounds, and stood in the cathedral one hundred and nineteen years. This church has undergone so many repairs and alterations, that it is a question whether any portion of the original building, with the exception of the tower, remains. The latter is of early English character, with the shafts of its upper windows much mutilated, but the battlements and pinnacles that surmount the tower are evidently of a period 56 In a pamphlet, entitled " The Two State Martyrs," in which is recounted the manner of the execution, &c. Mr. Yea- mans is stated to have been buried at Christ Church ; and Mr. Boucher, his unfortunate colleague, at St. Werburgh's. ST. MATTHEW. 169 posterior to the construction of the original struc- ture; the south-east pinnacle is loftier than the others, and divided into three stages, decorated with trefoil arches. Furrowed over with years, that age has chiselled upon its face, shattered by the fury of elementary strife, its hoary head has long struggled with the cankering hand of time, until the fretted surface of its crumbling, moulder- ing stones, bears legible impress of the riot and the desolation that follow in the track, over which has flown the darkening shadow of his mighty wings. 57 ST. MATTHEW. The parish of St. James being extensive, and the population very numerous, it was deemed necessary, for the accommodation of the inhabi- tants of Kingsdown and its vicinity, to erect a new church in that situation. A subscription was readily obtained for that purpose, and the founda- tion stone was laid with much ceremony, by the late J. Bangley, Esq., August 26, 1833 ; the late venerable and Rev. T. T. Biddulph, incumbent of St. James's, then ascended the stone and addressed the audience, which were computed at nearly fif- teen thousand, in the most energetic and affecting manner; and, after thanking Mr. Bangley, the Committee, Secretaries, Subscribers, &c. for their 37 See " Cursory Observations on the Churches of Bristol." 170 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. exertions, offered up a solemn and impressive prayer. A marble monument has been erected in this church, to the memory of the late J.Bangley,Esq., bearing the following inscription : — Sacred to the Memory of JOHN BANGLEY, Esq. late of Kingsdown, Merchant, who died Oct. 8, 1836, in the 78 th year of his age, and whose remains are deposited in the Cathedral church of this city. For more than 50 years he was an inhabitant of the parish of St. James; and as senior Vestryman laid the Foundation stone of This Church, on the 26 th day of August, 1833, towards the building of which he contributed liberally, and moreover presented to it a set of EIGHT BELLS. By his will, he gave several bequests to charitable Institu- tions in Bristol and its neighbourhood, and left an ANNUAL GIFT of Thirteen Pounds, to be equally divided between twenty- six poor men and women, inhabitants of the parish of St. James, on the 26 th day of July for ever. This church was consecrated by the late Dr. Ryder, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, and opened for public worship in the spring of 1835. It is a large and handsome building, and has a number of free sittings for the accommodation of the poor. The choice of the minister is vested in the hands of appointed trustees. 171 THE MAYOR'S CHAPEL, FORMERLY THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH AND HOSPITAL OF THE VIRGIN MARY AND ST. MARK. It is observable that this chapel is not built as churches commonly are, east and west, but rather nearer to the north and south, for which some assign this reason, that it was to point to the place of residence of the joint founders and their ances- tors, Berkeley Castle : others, that it should point towards the lands with which it was endowed. As this church was formerly called the Gaunt's Church, so the old hospital thereto belonging went by the name of the Gaunts of Billeswick, " because Maurice de Gaunt built this hospital in Billeswick Manor, in the north-west suburb of the town of Bristol, near the Monastery of St. Augustine, before A. D. 1229, for one chaplain, and one hundred poor people to be relieved every day." Gaunt's Hospital must have been of great ex- tent, since the boundaries can be traced from the corner of Pipe Lane, Frogmore Street, to the western corner of Mark Lane, St. Augustine's Back ; Orchard Street, being once what its name implies, within the limits. Leland's notice of this establishment runs thus : " One Henry Gaunte, a knyght, sometyme dwell- ynge not farre from Brandone Hylle, by Bright- stow, erectyd a college of priests, with a master, on the green of St. Augustine." 172 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. The religious of this hospital are frequently named Bonnes Hommes ; and were compelled by their rules, when abroad, to wear black caps, having the arms of the establishment worked thereon; namely, a field gules, three geese passant Argent. Under the tower, at the east front, is a small low door to enter the church, and on the north side another, by which you enter into a smal 1 room, formerly a confessional, with two arches in the wall, between this room and the high altar, for the priest and penitent. There are eight curious niches round the room, in which images were formerly fixed. The roof is vaulted with freestone ; in the centre of which are two curious shields, with several coats of arms in freestone, viz. England and France, the Gourneys, 58 Poyntz, of Acton, &c. 58 The arms of Gourney are stated by Barrett to be Or, three pales azure, on a shield, which appear in painted glass above the altar, together with Berkeley's arms. Now we are inclined to hazard a conjecture that Gourney's arms were Azure, a chevron Argent, being the shield that is placed quarterly with Berkeley's, over the entrance to the Virgin Mary's Chapel in the cathedral, [which Mr. Barrett calls the ancient bearing of the Fitzhardings, before they added the ten crosses patee] and for this reason : — the inscription on the monument of Sir Richard Newton Cradock, of Barr's Court, says, Gournep, Hampton, Cradock, Newton last Held on the measure of that ancient line Of Baron's blood ; &c. &c. And on his shield of twenty-four coats — the simple chevron, as the mayor's chapel. 173 In 1820, this chapel was partially, but truly " re- paired and beautified ;" a superb stained window was added, and the high altar screen restored to its original beauty, at the expense of the Corporation, by the suggestion and under the immediate direction of the Chamberlain, Thomas Garrard, Esq. On the 31st of October, 1830, this chapel, after having been completely " repaired and beautified," was re-opened for divine worship. The entrance from College Green is to an anti- chapel, the roof of which supports the floor of the organ-loft. This entrance forms a chamber of beautiful gothic work, with stained windows. The west front of the organ gallery has a very imposing appearance, from the great profusion of gothic panelling, tracery, and decorated mould- ings. It is flanked at the angles with octagonal turrets, of singular elegance, embattled and sur- mounted with canopies, crockets, &c. The groining, with fan panelling, under the gallery, is supported by clustered columns and highly-finished capitals. The east front is more elaborate, and beautifully above stated, first appears. In the recess, immediately to the left of the above-mentioned entrance, where formerly some sculptured knight, we have no doubt, reclined, this coat of a single chevron is eighteen times repeated on the roof. May not one of the Gourneys have rested here ? Who could have been the ancient Fitzharding? It must needs have been Harding himself ; as the founder bears the ten crosses. What was th« Baron of Folkingham's arms ? 174 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. decorated. The spandrils, quatrefoils, buttresses, sculptures, arches, and cornices, are all from the chissel of a master; and the oak gates are fine specimens of taste and judgment. In fact, the arrangement of the whole is excellent. The stained glass, introduced within the panels, produces a composition of great attractive effect, giving to it an interest of a very high description. The pulpit and the throne for the Mayor, the first of Painswick stone, and the latter of oak, are in a style of workmanship of a very superior cast. The bracket of the pulpit is well worth attention. The canopies over the stall erected for the Corpo- ration, &c. are very chastely conceived, the deco- rations being of vine foliage, tracery, and tabernacle work : the carving is exquisite. Under the cano- pies the niches are decorated with demi-coronated angels, ogee mouldings, and embossed cornices. The stalls, the reading desk, and the clerk's desk, are of oak, the doors and standards of which are finely carved, and richly decorated. The original old English oak ceiling remains; its bosses, span- drils, mouldings, corbels, spandril-bosses, and demi-angels, are all in high preservation, and therefore only required to be cleaned, gilded, and varnished, to be in unison with the new work. The south aisle has also undergone a complete repair, and now forms a convenient and appro- priate deposit for its splendid monuments. There the mayor's chapel. 175 is in the outer south aisle a very finely stained window, by Pearon, representing in his pontificals, Miles Saley, a Bishop of Llandaff, and a founder. It is a copy of a painting by West, late President of the Royal Academy, and was purchased by the Corporation from Fonthill Abbey. In the centre of the exquisitely beautiful altar- piece is now placed a highly-finished painting, by Mr. King, of a Dead Christ, surrounded by his sorrowing disciples. The body of the Saviour, recently taken down from the cross, occupies the fore-ground, the head resting on the lap of the Virgin Mother, who bends over it with chastened agony, faith in the " resurrection and the life" calming the mortal suffering. She is supported by St. John, who suppresses his own grief to administer comfort to her. Near the feet kneels the Magdalen, in whom affection and sorrow sweetly combine. She holds and presses for the last time the pierced hand of her Lord, and her feelings seem absorbed in the mournful spectacle before her. At the head, behind the Virgin, Joseph of Arimathea is meditating on the affecting scene, and another old man is going into the sepulchre, to direct the preparations. In the back ground are the crosses, the Roman soldiers, and a distant view of the city and temple. Poyntz Sepulchral Chapel, with its fine vaulted roof, sculptured niches, and painted window, which has been used for many years as a vestry, will, we 176 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. hope, be completely restored to its original beauty and proportions. The monumental statue of Sir Henry de Gaunt, master of the hospital in 1230, is yet preserved. Among the monuments there are two knights, armed in mail, their right hands on their swords 5 hilts, on the left their shields, with their legs across, which show them to be Knights of the Holy "War, or Crusade, which ended with Henry III.'s reign in 1268. Whom they are intended to represent is uncertain, but most probably either the Berkeleys or Gourneys. August, 1680. The infamous Captain William Bedloe was buried near the great door, next the Green, without any memorial or inscription. He is said to have been concerned in the Rye-House Plot in Charles II.'s time. A private oratory was discovered some years since on the first floor in the house, situate next door to the chapel, adorned with scriptural paintings. Several other instances could be pointed out in Bristol, of remains of religious edifices appearing as part of private houses. It is affirmed, indeed, that a church, dedicated to St. Andrew, formerly stood at the corner of High Street and Wine Street, but no positive authority can be found for this ; the old maps, however, describe the High Cross as being the centre of four churches. 177 ST. MICHAEL. The original structure is supposed to have been built about 1193, by Robert Fitzhaymon, who en- dowed his abbey of Tewkesbury with this church, but the present church was founded in July, 1775, and opened for divine worship in June, 1777. The outside of the building is modern Gothic, and suited to the old tower, which has been preserved : it is about ninety feet high, has four pinnacles, and a peal of six bells. In the gallery is an organ, much admired for its elegant appearance and richness of tone. On the east side of the tower, over the roof, is a niche, in which is fixed a figure of an abbot, or as some imagine, of St. Michael, the patron saint. In the old church appeared the following very singular epitaph :— Dominus{^^. t Anna Filia Richardi Ash, iEtatis Suae Tertio. Obiit Vicessimo Quarto Die Maii. With the figure of an ash tree cut off in the centre, and dated 1645 : — tL ! ^ { ts ! «* *>- { SEK.S r e daie And on the floor of the communion table was the following inscription, on a large flat stone, without any date; but from the form and appearance of the characters, it is conjectured to be coeval with N 178 CHILCOTT's BRISTOL GUIDE. the above. It was copied many years ago, from the original ; and on account of its singularity, we think it not unworthy a place here : — SwT?! Ashes ( h ri e iK othe l Ash \™™™> In hope that ) ( shall be J ( agame, Ashes to) a , ( return shall, and arise, Which J ( in Ashes, here expecting, lies. 59 In the parish of St. Michael were, of old, two religious houses ; one consisting of nuns under a prioress, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, and founded by Eva, wife of Robert. Fitzhar ding: — the other, a brotherhood or priory to St. Bartholomew. The site of the nuns' house was where the King David Inn now stands ; the latter still retains the name of Bartholomew's Hospital, and is situated in Christmas Street, where the City Boys are at present educated. " The Eolle of Seyncte Bartholemewies Priorie," given by Chatterton to Mr. Barrett, and by him inserted page 428 of his history, should be well considered by those who deny the authenticity of the Rowley MSS. In every point of view it is a most extraordinary document. There is also in this parish a chapel dedicated to the Three Kings of Coleyn^ attached to an 59 The descendants of this family still reside in Bristol. 60 The reader is referred to the popular novel of Quentin Durward, for particulars respecting these personages. It seems that the wise men of the east, who laid offerings at the feet of Christ in the manger, are the kings alluded to. ST. NICHOLAS. 179 almshouse called Foster's, founded in King Henry VII.'s time, at the top of Queen Street and Steep Street. Annexed to Colston's Almshouse, also in this parishes another chapel, where service is performed according to the ritual of the Church of England. A neat Gothic building has recently been erected near the church, for an infant school for the poor. ST. NICHOLAS, ST. LEONARD, AND ST. GILES. On entering High Street, from the Bridge, the old church of St. Nicholas, 61 stood on an arch above the road, having gates, and being the city boundary. 61 " Richard Wombstrong bequeaths to God and the blessed virgin his mother, for the souls of his father and mother, and to the church of St. Nicholas, in Bristol, for the purpose of building a chapel in honour of the mother of Jesus Christ, the whole of his bakehouse, in length and breadth above the cellar, near the east end of the said church, and towards the west end of the sardxhurch, in equal length and breadth within side. To be had and held by the parishioners of the said church in as full and ample manner as any donation can be made ; and the said churchwardens are to pay in hand thirty marks. He re- serves to himself and heirs the use of the said cellar. Witnesses, William Fitz Nichol, then mayor of Bristol, James la Waire," &c. — From an old deed in the possession of Mr. Cumberland. The original probably was written as early as the reign of King John. 180 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE- This old church, Rowley says, was founded by the Saxon Brictric, in 1030. The present crypt, which will be regarded by the antiquary with peculiar interest, on his viewing its heavy and massive columns, its richly moulded and ornamented arches, and the quaint and ever- varying decorations of its bosses, is said to be the ground floor of that church. The heads of King Edward II. and of Queen Phi- lippa, wife of King Edward III. are pointed out as being among the busts in the arched ceiling of the crypt. The present church was finished in 1768. On entering the porch, two guilded figures are seen, and the figure of Justice standing against the east wall which belonged to the altar-piece of the old church. On the eastern wall also reclines a figure represent- ing Alderman John Whitson, who from an humble and obscure situation was raised to opulence and distinction ; and immediately under the tower, in the church porch, is a monument to the same great benefactor to this city, and author of a treatise called " The Pious Christian's Final Farewell to the World and its Vanities." The latter monument was erected by the late Mr. Clarke and Mr. W. Edkins some years since, at the expense of the Chamber, and is a handsome specimen of florid Gothic. The following is the inscription :— ST. NICHOLAS, 181 IN MEMOBIE OF THAT GREATE BENEFACTOVR TO THIS CITIE, IOHN WHITSON, MERCHAVNT, TWICE MAYOR AND ALDERMAN, AND FOVR TIMES MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT; FOL THIS CITIE, WHO DIED IN THE 72nd YEARE OF HIS AGE 5 A. D. 1629, A WORTHIE PATTERNE TO ALL THAT COME AFTER HIM. The pews on either side of the church are erected in a sloping direction to the centre. The ceiling is beautifully ornamented, and the whole interior has a light and cheerful appearance. It has a fine-toned organ, which was repaired in 1821, under the su- perintendence of Dr. Hodges. Above the tower rises a beautiful spire, sur- mounted by a weather-cock; its height from the ground is two hundred and five feet. An excellent illuminated clock, made by Mr. Palmer, of London, who obtained the large silver medal from the Society of Arts, has been placed in the south side of the tower. The patronage of the living is with the Dean and Chapter of Bristol, Humfrey Brown, in 1629, gave £20 per annum for a Sunday afternoon lecture in this church. 182 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. St. Nicholas is reported to have been friendly to mariners, and churches dedicated to him are generally built by the water side. In 1360, a chapel across the centre of Bristol Bridge, dedicated to the Virgin, was completed ; said to have been founded by Edward and Phi- lippa. Its dimensions were twenty-five yards by seven : it contained four windows on each side, a high window over the altar, and a small chapel, with an altar on each side. Under it was an arched room of the same extent, for the use of the alder- men. It was demolished in 1643, by Walter Ste- phens, a linen draper, and a leader among the parliamentarians. ST. PAUL. This church is situated in Portland Square. In consequence of the parish of St. James having rapidly increased in buildings and in population, an act of parliament was procured to divide the parish, and to erect a new parish church, dedicated to St. Paul. This was founded April, 1789, and opened for divine worship on St. Paul's day, 1794. It is a handsome structure in the Gothic style. The roof is supported by lofty pillars of stone with fancied capitals, and is beautifully arched and stuc- coed over the middle aisle. It has three spacious galleries, the front one being nearly semi-circular, ST. BARNABAS. 183 and contains a very good organ. Over the altar is a painting finely executed by Bird : the subject is St. Paul preaching at Athens. ST. BARNABAS, st. paul's parish. The Church of St. Barnabas, which was built by the Diocesan Church Building Association, aided by private subscriptions, was opened and consecrated by the Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, on Tuesday, September 12, 1843. It is a small but neat structure, in the cruciform shape, with a steeple rising over the west entrance. It is situated about midway along the Ashley Road, near Stoke's Croft. The chancel, which is more than usually commodious, is formed by the head of the cross, and of course is in the east end ; a spacious crypt runs under the entire length of the sacred edifice. The interior of the church is 130 feet in length, and 90 feet broad across the transepts. At the west end is a commodious gallery, and the body of the church is unencumbered with pews, the seats being open, with open backs. The fittings up of the interior are somewhat different from the usual style. The pulpit is placed on the north side of the chancel, and the reading desk on the south : there is no desk for a clerk, and we understand no such functionary is to be appointed, the congrega- 184 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. tion, according to the revived fashion, are to give the responses. An oak lecterne, in the place of an eagle, will be placed on the steps of the chancel, from which the officiating clergyman will read the lessons. The creed and commandments in the chancel are painted with illuminated letters in the style of the Roman missals. The church furnishes 750 sittings, of which 500 are free, those only in the transepts being private. The cost of erecting the church, without the parsonage house attached, is upwards of £2,200. There is an endowment of £150 per annum, exclusive of the parsonage house, where the clergyman resides. The appointment is with the Bishop of the Diocese. ST. ANDREW, MONTPELUER. This church was consecrated January 31, 1845, by the Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol. The site of the sacred edifice is in the newly con- stituted district taken out of the parishes of St. Paul and Horfield. The church is built in the early English style of architecture, the plan is cruciform, the length from east to west being 99 feet 9 inches, and 27 feet wide; from north to south 57 feet 9 inches, and 27 feet wide; which, with a gallery at the west end, will accommodate 800 persons. The tower is at ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL. 185 the west end, and is 60 feet high, and was designed to be surmounted by a spire 70 feet, making an entire height from the ground of 130 feet, but this cannot be accomplished at present for want of funds. It would certainly add greatly to the eifect of the exterior. The chancel is ascended by two steps, and the altar floor by three. The communion table is of carved oak, and is, we understand, a model of one in Cologne Cathedral. It was pre- sented to this church by H. Champernowne, Esq., of Darlington, Devon. The altar screen is of Pains- wick stone, forming an arcade the entire width of the east end of seven arches, with detached shafts; the spandrils are richly carved ; the font is of the same material, and corresponds with it in design, and is placed at the west end ; the pulpit is of Bath stone. There are on the south side of the chancel, two sedillia and a piscina. The roof is open wood work, the principal timbers being sup- ported by carved stone corbels. The benches are made of deal, stained a dark oak colour, and without doors. The cost, including boundary walls, levelling ground, &c, £2,428 : if the spire had been added, the cost would have been £155 additional. ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL Is confidently stated to have been founded before the Norman Conquest ; little, however, is known 186 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. of its early history. But it was in such a decayed state in 1749, that a faculty was obtained out of the bishop's court, to repair and beautify the whole, which cost upwards of £800. It was also repaired in 1795, when it was found necessary to re-erect many of the arches and pillars; to renew the ceiling of the middle aisle; and to erect a new pulpit. The church is now a neat, clean, and spacious edifice, with three aisles ; has a handsome Corin- thian altar screen, and a fine organ loft, built in the Doric style ; the representation of St. Peter with his keys crowning the summit of the organ. The tower is a low, massive, and clumsy build- ing, in the Norman style of architecture, and was probably erected in the twelfth century. The church contains some curious ancient mo- numents ; one of which, in the east end of the south aisle, (formerly a chapel dedicated to the ' blessed Mary of Bellhouse,) within a Gothic arch, adorned with a great variety of curious workman- ship, without any inscription, is the figure of a lady, lying upon the tomb, who, from the armorial bearings, appears to belong to the Newtons of Barr's Court, Gloucestershire. In the same aisle is a magnificent monument, with a long Latin inscription, to the memory of Robert Aldworth, merchant and alderman, who died the 6th of Nov. 1634. He was a great bene- factor to this city. ST. PHILIP AND JACOB. 187 There is also a monument on the floor near the above, engraved on brass, a priest in alb. chesible, stole and maniple — holding in his hand the chalice with the consecrated wafer. The inscription un- derneath is — Hie jacet magister Robtus Loud Capellanas qui obiit xxiij die Februarii Anno d~m millimo cccclxi cuius domini propri- cietur Deus. Amen. A stone in the middle aisle had the following inscription; — "Sir John Cadaman, Knt. was be- headed in the castle for killing Miles Callowhill, an officer of the garrison, while Prince Rupert had possession of Bristol, and was buried April 9, 1645." In the church-yard were buried the remains of the poet Richard Savage, equally celebrated for his poetical genius, his indiscretions, and distresses. The series of calamities which he suffered through life, he owed to the unnatural conduct of his mother, the Countess of Macclesfield. He died in the pri- son of Newgate, in this city, where he was under confinement for debt, and where he wrote those merciless lines called, " London and Bristol Deli- neated" ST. PHILIP AND JACOB. This church is supposed to have been the chapel of some Benedictines, subject to the Abbey of Tewkesbury : its early history appears to be very 188 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. uncertain ; but it is mentioned in Gaunt's deeds as parochial before the year 1200. In 1388, Henry Wakefield, Bishop of Worcester, by deed, annexed the rectory of St. Philip to the monastery of Tewkesbury ; previously to which the chancel most probably formed the whole church. The room underneath the tower and two arches at the north and south aisle appear the oldest por- tion of the church. The chief entrance was for- merly under the tower, where are the remains of an arched door way, containing some beautiful early English capitals of sculptured foliage and a portion of the ribs, forming a vaulted roof. There are also two other arches with rich mouldings, the one may be termed the belfry arch, and the other is at the entrance of the north aisle. The columns or piers in this church have a very heavy appear- ance, being without a base, and rise direct from the ground without any moulding whatever. The baptismal font is ancient, said to be of Saxon origin, is of a square form, and rests on a single column. It has been painted to imitate grey marble. A chauntry was founded here by one Kemys ; and one of the aisles is still denominated Kemys' aisle, which is divided from the chancel by richly panelled piers, with Tudor arches of the florid or perpendicular style. There is an ancient bust in this aisle, said to be of Robert, eldest son of Wil- ST. PHILIP AND JACOB. 189 liam the Conqueror, and which formerly orna- mented the church which stood within the castle walls. Duke Robert was, through his credulity and easy disposition, cozened of his right of succession, on the death of his brother William Rufus, by his other brother Henry I., who not only deprived him of his crown here, but also of his dukedom of Nor- mandy. The duke, on being made prisoner, was sent into England, under the charge of the Bishop of Salisbury, and confined in Bristol Castle; where it is not improbable that he lost his sight, by the hot brass basin which was ordered to be applied to his eyes by his cruel brother, in order to prevent his escape. He died, some say, in Cardiff Castle. 190 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Rowley, in enumerating Mr. Canynge's collection of curiosities, mentions Duke Robert's gauntlet, left by him in Bristol Castle. At the east end of the aisle is a modern finely- sculptured canopy, adorned with crotchets and finials in good taste ; underneath is a marble slab, containing a just tribute to the memory of the Rev. Wm. Day, A. M. ; below which is laid the holy bible. This church has recently undergone considerable repairs and alterations, the expense of which was defrayed by voluntary subscriptions. The following is somewhat curious: — In 1279, 12th September, process was issued out of the office of the Bishop of "Worcester against Peter de la Mare, constable of the castle of Bristol, and others his accomplices, for infringing the privileges of the church, in taking one William de Lay, who fled for refuge to the church-yard of St. Philip and Jacob, for carrying him into the castle and im- prisoning him, and lastly, cutting off his head. Nine or ten being involved in this crime, their sentence was to go from the church of the Friars Minor, in Lewin's Mead, to the church of St. Philip and Jacob, through the streets, almost in a state of nudity, for four market days for four suc- cessive weeks, each receiving discipline in the way: and Peter de la Mare was enjoined to build a stone cross, at the expense of one hundred shillings at ST. LUKE. 191 least, that one hundred poor be fed round it, on a certain day every year, and that he should find a priest to celebrate mass during his life, where the bishop might appoint. This stone cross is men- tioned by William Wyrcestre. In this parish is a chapel dedicated to the Holy and Undivided Trinity and St. George, which be- longs to an almshouse founded by John Barnstaple, thrice mayor of Bristol. It is situated at the top of Old Market Street. HOLY TRINITY, PARISH OF ST. PHILIP AND JACOB. Sept. 23, 1829, the foundation stone of a new church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was laid near the turnpike-gate on the road to Easton, for the accommodation of the out-parishioners of this populous parish. It was consecrated and opened for public worship on the 17th February, 1832. Nearly one third of the sittings are free. A large building for a school, in connection with this church, as a district schoo], is built on the opposite side of the way, under the will of the late Mrs. H. More, for the education of poor children. ST. LUKE, OUT PARISH OF ST. PHILIP AND JACOB, Is built near to the Cotton Works, to provide 192 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. religious instruction for its inmates, as well as for the rapidly increasing population of its immediate neighbourhood. It was opened and consecrated for public worship by the Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, on Wednesday, September 19, 1843. The church of St. Luke is intended to resemble in style the churches of the 13th century, in which more detail and ornament can be dispensed with than in any other style. The west doorway is a specimen of early English with equilateral pointed arch, with hood mouldings terminating on carved corbels. The north doorway is similar in design to the west, has an equilateral pointed arch, .with foliated spandrils, and the hood moulding is car- ried horizontal over the head, and surmounted by a window over, with ogee-shaped hood moulding crocketed, terminating with a finial. The tower rises about 100 feet from the ground. The interior of this church is 100 feet long, and 46 feet broad, and provides free-sittings for 750 persons, and 40 in private pews ; and in the west gallery there is accommodation for 230 children, making in the aggregate number 1020. The patronage of the church is vested in the Rev. S. E. Day, the vicar of the parish. There is an endowment of £150 a year, and it is proposed to erect a parsonage house adjoining. The roof is divided in the centre into bays terminating with pointed arches, horizontal tie beams or girders, which span the width of roof DISTRICTS. 193 and rest at each end on the wall plates ; thus serv- ing to restrain any lateral expansion of the walls. Beneath the tie beams are spandrils, serving as braces, springing from corbels. The floor of the church is supported on brick arches, turned upon strong cast iron guilders; and under the church are spacious accommodations for 700 children, with rooms for school-master and mistress, and large committee-room, together with convenient offices, and a plentiful supply of water. The cost of erect- ing the church, including warm -air stove, iron railing, and gates, boundary walls, &c. &c. amounts to about £2,700. The limitation in price, and the neighbourhood in which it is placed being inhabited chiefly by persons in a humble sphere of life, would not allow of means to carry into effect an expensive style of Gothic architecture. The ar- chitect was Mr. S. T. Welch, of this city. DISTRICTS CONSTITUTED UNDER THE ENDOWMENT ACT, 6 & 7 Victoria, Cap. 37, In the Gift of the Crown and Bishop alternately. The District of St. Jude, Trinity, parish of St. Philip and Jacob, containing a population of 4800 inhabitants, includes Gloucester Lane, Wade Street, Lamb Street, New Street, Brick Street, Poyntz Pool, and places adjacent. o 194 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. St. Simon adjoins St. Jude's District, and con- tains a population of about 2200. 62 It is intended to erect two more district churches in the parish of St. Philip and Jacob, viz. one in Unity Street, and the other in the Dings ; one at Hillsbridge, without Temple Gate, parish of Tem- ple ; one at Mardyke, Hotwell Road, parish of St. George, Brandon Hill ; one on the Weir, parish of St. Peter ; and one at St. Bartholomew's District, parish of St. James. ST. STEPHEN. The original church was probably built early in the thirteenth century, between the outer and inner walls of the old city, on the banks of the Frome, and dedicated to St. Stephen, the proto- martyr. It is mentioned in deeds as early as 1304, when it belonged to the Abbots of Glastonbury, who were its patrons till the dissolution, and by whom and the parishioners the church was rebuilt about the year 1465. It is said that in 1398, John Vyel " gave to the church of St. Stephen one ring, in which was set a stone, part of the very pillar to which Christ was hound at the scourging, to be kept among the relics for ever ! ! ! " 62 These two districts are already assigned, ministers ap- pointed, and a very considerable portion of money raised for building these two churches. ST. STEPHEN. 195 The porch is very elegantly formed by a richly decorated ogee canopy, presenting a groined roof of elaborate workmanship. The interior of the church is in the florid or perpendicular style : — it consists of three aisles divided by slender columns, composed of clustered shafts, with capitals of heads surrounded by a fillet or band; the arches are pointed, supporting a range of modern clerestory windows. The ceiling of the centre aisle is of oak, divided into square bold panels, with rich bosses. The pulpit is of mahogany, richly carved, and decorated with cherubs' heads ; the altar is of the like wood, adorned with eight fluted pillars, in the Corinthian order, and the whole church is neatly wainscoted. In the centre, over the communion table, is painted a dove, emblematical of the Holy Ghost ; and over the whole is a large painting, by Mr. Thomas Ross, of Bath, representing angels lifting a veil and discovering the glory of heaven. On removing the high oak wainscoting from against the north wall, when the church was re- pewed in the spring of 1844, three sepulchral recesses, formed within the substance of the wall, were exposed to view; the two eastermostwere plain and unoccupied; but that at the western end of the aisle contained an altar tomb, with recumbent effigies of a man and woman, and was enriched with half trefoils, and bosses of leaves starred. The 196 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. front of the tomb was ornamented with a succession of shields and decorated arches, and under them a series of niches, containing whole-length figures. In the absence of all positive information respect- ing these effigies, we have no other resource but to refer to their costume, as to the period when it pre- vailed. The figures are habited in what was the prevailing dress of the higher classes in the reign of Edward III., and therefore could not be, as some have supposed, the effigies of John Ship- ward and his wife, who flourished in the fifteenth century. The figures and ornamental workmanship were, when first discovered, much mutilated, but are now repaired, and form a very interesting object. In progressing with their work, the workmen discovered another monumental effigy of a man in a recumbent posture, in a recess in the south wall ; but whom it is intended to represent, no evidence can be found. It is now removed near the others, in the north aisle. There are also many other monuments worthy of attention, but one of the principal is that to the memory of Sir George Snigge, Knight, at the eastern end of the south aisle, which possesses peculiar interest. He was recorder of this city from 1592 to 1604, and celebrated during a long life for his ability and integrity. He died in the year 1617. He is represented as reclining at full length in his robes of state, beneath a sculptured ST. STEPHEN. 197 canopy of various devices ; — his head is supported by his left hand — the other contains a scroll. The appearance of the monument from the opposite side of the aisle is particularly striking. In the same aisle, over the vestry door, is a singular brass, underneath which are the following lines : — « Deceased the 5th of September, Anno Domini 1594. Robert Kitchen, Alderman, and bis wife, Lietb near this place, closed in earth and clay ; Their charities alike in death and life, TVho to the poor gave all their goods away ; Leaving in trust such men to act the same, As might in truth perform their good intent ; So that the poor indeed and eke in name, To lasting ages in this City meant, And other places of this City faire, As Kendall towne and Stockland held both have, "With Bath the native place of her first ayre, The bounties of their giftes they to them gave. A Chauntry was founded in this church by Ed- ward Blanket; and to his family, who were work- ers in wool, is attributed the name of that article of bed furniture. The porch or door-icay is now carefully repaired, and renewed according to the original design; it is a rich bit of architecture, and is some atonement for the spoliation of the tower. Dean Tucker was rector of this parish for many years. 198 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. The tower, which is very lofty, and beautifully proportioned, was built at the sole expense of John Shipward, (mayor of this city in 1455) an eminent merchant, about the year 1470 : it is one hundred and thirty-three feet high, of a square figure, or- namented from the bottom upwards in the Gothic taste; and has been characterised by a native amateur, as "the fairest form ever erected by the taste and skill of the last Gothic school." In 1703, three pinnacles were blown down in a hurricane, and did great damage to the south aisle ; which the wealth and piety of our predecessors speedily restored, according to the ancient model. " But when its decay was lately ascertained, after repeated damage, the idea of perfect restoration was abandoned, (I trust for a time only) and a mu- tilation has taken place. Alas ! the true admirers of the most beautiful, because the most graceful, tower in England, have now to contemplate it as ' the sun shorn of his beams.' 99€S TEMPLE CHURCH, OTHERWISE OP THE HOLY CROSS, Was founded in the reign of King Stephen, by the Knights Templars, an order instituted in 1118, wearing a white habit, with a red cross on- 63 William "Wyrcestre Redivivus. TEMPLE. 199 the left shoulder. Though it is evident, from its long aisles, large windows, lofty ceiling, slender pillars, and spacious area, that the present church has been erected since that period; yet we have no data to determine when or by whom it was rebuilt. It was repaired, repewed, and an organ erected in 1701, at an expense of £400, towards which Edw. Colston gave £100, and the parishioners the remainder. It was also under repair in 1835. William Wyrcestre, in 1480, says, " The most beautiful church of the Temple is founded in honour of the Holy Cross, in the manor and street called Temple Street, and has great liberties and franchises." This church has a beautiful altar of curious workmanship; and on each side is a painting of Moses and Aaron, well executed ; the floor is neatly paved with diamond-cut stones. There is suspended at the entrance of the chan- cel a curious brass sconce, with twelve branches ; on the top are the Virgin and Child, and under them St. George killing the dragon, of very neat workmanship, probably used in the time of the Knights Templars. There is a chapel here, dedi- cated to St. Katherine, which was formerly used by the Weavers' Company, and which is the most ancient part of the interior of the church. Erected in it is a tablet stating that the chapel was given to that body by Edward I. in 1299. 200 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. The tower is twenty-five feet square, about one hundred and fourteen feet high, without rail, pin- nacle, or battlement, and deviates nearly four feet from a perpendicular line. There are buttresses at each angle, and a semi-octagon turret enclosed by those at the south-west. The soil was evidently once a marsh, to which is attributed the sinking of one side of the tower, which renders its appearance quite appalling; it is, notwithstanding, pronounced to stand secure, though it has actually separated itself from the church. Speaking of this circumstance, a Flemish author, as long ago as 1576, observes, "Abraham Ortelius wrote me word, that himself put a stone of the size of a goose egg into the chink, which, as the bells rang, he saw himself give downwards, as the place was narrow or wide, and at length, by the frequent collision, was squeezed to pieces : and that when he put his back against the tower, he was afraid he should be oppressed by its fall. That the mayor and others of authority there told him the whole fabric of this church formerly shook and was like to fall, before the chink was made there, and with such force, that the lamps were put out and the oil wasted : of this there were many living witnesses in that parish. But the church now, because it is not affected by the sound of the bells, stands without motion." The ancient arms of the church were the same TEMPLE. 201 as those of the Knights Templars, and of the Temple in London, the Holy Lamb and Cross. The lion and the cross at the entrance and on the weather-vane appear to have been blunders of the artist. In the 26th of Henry VIIL, a great controversy arose between the Lord Prior of St. John of Jeru- salem, in England, and the mayor and commonalty of Bristol, relating to the privilege of sanctuary in Temple Street, of holding a court, &c, &c, which was referred to the Chief Justice and Chief Baron, who declared that the liberty of sanctuary should be void. King Henry soon afterwards settled all disputes by the dissolution. Temple Meads, being part of the lands belong- ing to the house of the Knights Templars, were exempt from tithes, and are so to this day; the corporation holding those lands in the same man- ner as the religious did. In 1788, a remarkable character, supposed to possess the powers of ventriloquism, greatly duped the then vicar of Temple, the Rev. Mr. Easter- brook, with many others. The following is the title of a pamphlet published at the time : "A Nar- rative of the extraordinary case of George Lukins, of Yatton, Somersetshire, who was possessed of Evil Spirits for near eighteen years. Also an Ac- count of his remarkable Deliverance in the Vestry Room of Temple Church, in the City of Bristol. 202 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. Extracted from the Manuscripts of several persons who attended; with the Kev. Mr. Easterbrook's Letter annexed, authenticating the particulars which occurred at Temple Church." There was once an establishment of Augustine Friars, where the streets called the Great Gardens now stand, in this parish; and another religious house, or monastery, just within the spot where stood the city gate, Temple Street. In a wall belonging to a house in Temple Street, exactly opposite the church, is an obtuse-pointed arch, of ancient date, no doubt, from the corrosion of the stones of which it is composed ; but pro- bably not so ancient as a monument placed in the same wall, even with the ground, which is here delineated. It is asserted bv some, that this was the original font in Temple Church ; — but we should rather conjecture it was an altar, the recess forming the pyx, or depository of the host. It has suffered so much from time and the atmosphere, that little remains but its general form. If the present was its original situation, it must have stood in the north wall ; for which reason, and no other, probably, it has been pronounced to be a font. Why fonts should be placed on the north side of churches we know not, but we believe it is generally the case. The Templars, perhaps, erected their first church on this site ; — certainly the present church has no pretensions to the age ST. THOMAS. 203 in which they flourished — moreover, the churches built by them were of a circular form, in imitation of the church of the holy sepulchre at Jerusalem, as may be seen in London, Cambridge, Northamp- ton, &c. ST. THOMAS. This church was originally built as a chapel to Bedminster, and is called in deeds, as early as the twelfth century, by the name of the Chapel of St. 204 crilcott's Bristol guide. Thomas the Martyr. It is said that the old church was only surpassed by St. Mary Kedcliif, for the elegance of its structure as a Gothic edifice. But in consequence of extreme age, it was obliged to be taken down, (except the tower) and the present church having been erected on its site, was opened for divine worship on St. Thomas's day, 1793. It is divided into three aisles, by square piers or columns supporting circular arches; the middle aisle has a lofty roof, adorned with richly orna- mented ribs, springing from projecting portions of the cornice, cherubs' heads being underneath. The altar-piece, which has been much admired, was painted by Mr. John King, of London. It represents St. Thomas making the acknowledgment of his belief in the resurrection and identity of Christ, as described in St. John, xx. 24 — 29. Below, on each side of the rails, placed on pedes- tals, are two figures carved in mahogany; and under the commandments, supporting three brack- ets, is some delicate and elaborate open carving of matted foliage and flowers. Although the Canynge family had a vault in this church, in which William, the grandfather, was bu- ried in 1398, and John, the father of the celebrated William, was buried in 1405, no monument or stone is found to record the names of so distin- guished individuals, 205 ST. WERBURGH Is situated in Corn Street, at the top of Small Street. Werburga was a Saxon saint, the daughter of Wulferus, King of Mercia. The original church is said to have been founded in 1190, and the tower built in 1385. The church being very old and much decayed, was taken down, rebuilt in the Gothic style, and opened in 1761. It has a very good freestone front, with large Gothic windows suitable to the tower, which was preserved, and only the top of it altered and repaired. On a recent examination of the tower, however, it was found much dilapidated by time, and was partially repaired. The interior of the church is lofty and spacious, and divided into three aisles by fluted Gothic pil- lars, supporting obtusely pointed arches, on which rest the roof of the church. A gallery at the west end has recently been erected, in strict architectural character with that of the edifice ; in which a very fine toned organ has been placed. The expenses of both were de- frayed principally by the present rector, (Rev. J. Hall, B. D.) and the remainder by subscriptions. On the right of the entrance of the north porch is an altar tomb, representing under a flat festoon, supported by marble pillars, a recumbent figure in his magisterial robes, of John Barker, Esq. Mayor and Alderman; various ornaments in the recess 206 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. surround a tablet, on which is recorded his name, honours, and virtues. Near the above, against the wall, are two brasses ; on the one is a kneeling figure of Nicholas Thorn, with a wife on either side, and several children, with labels above, containing their names. He was a merchant of great eminence and undeviating in- tegrity, and terminated his career August 19, 1546, aged 50. On the other brass there is a male and female kneeling on either side a lectern, with a number of children behind each, also kneeling. There is also a monument erected to Humphrey Brown, merchant, who died March 22, 1630; and Elizabeth, his wife, daughter of G. White, of this city, merchant. Here lies a Brown — a White, the colours one. Pale drawn by death, here shaded by a stone ; One house did hold them both whilst life did last, One grave do hold them both now life is past. In the south aisle is a neat marble tablet to the memory of the Rev. William Tandey, M. A., who died March 16, 1832, aged eighty-one years. He was rector of the parish for thirty-two years. " Sunday, March 16th, 1777, I preached at St. Werburgh's, the first church I ever preached in in Bristol. I had desired my friends not to come thither, but to leave room for strangers. By this means the church was well filled, but not over- much crowded," — John Wesley's Journal. 207 (ffijapefe, &c. not ot fyt (Stttibltelmtnt. ROMAN CATHOLICS. The Roman Catholics have three places of wor- ship^ viz, : — 1. In the old chapel in Trenchard Street. 64 2. In an adjoining building to the new chapel now erecting opposite Meridian Place, Clifton ; and 3. In St. Mary's Church under the Bank, St. Augustine's Back, which was opened and conse- crated by the late Bishop Baines, July 7, 1843. — This building is considered by competent judges to be a pure specimen of Grecian architecture, and may be ranked among the most prominent build- ings in this city. The entrance is by a magnificent portico, supported by columns upon the plan of 64 In the vestibule of this chapel, sunk twelve feet in the solid rock, lie the enormous remains of Patrick Cotter, (otherwise O'Brien) whose stature was eight feet three inches ! exceeding by nine inches King Charles I.'s porter, Evans, who drew Sir Jeffrey Hudson out of his pocket at a court entertainment. O'Brien, after exhibiting himself in all parts of the kingdom, died at the Hotwells, Sept. 8, 1806, aged 46. He was a native of Kinsale, in Ireland. The idea of his bones being exposed to public view after his death quite horrified him, and led him to give the strictest injunctions to secure his body from the at- tempts of either avarice or curiosity. 208 chilcott's Bristol guide. Diogenes' lantern, at Athens. The interior, which is cruciform, contains about 4000 superficial feet, and is capable of holding 600 persons. The sanctuary, which is supported by four elegant Corinthian columns, is situated at its north-western extremity, and on its right and left are the statues of St. Peter and St. Paul — the former holding the keys, the latter the sword. Over the altar is fixed a crucifix, with the figure of the Saviour in bur- nished gold, surrounded by a halo, gilt with the same precious metal. On the altar are placed twelve elegantly chased candlesticks of silver gilt ; and the ante pendium, or drapery covering in front, which was worked by the nuns of the Visitation Convent at Westbury, is of crimson velvet, richly embroidered with gold. In the centre is a Maltese cross ; and in the side compartments are wreaths of the vine and ears of wheat — typical of the bread and wine used in the sacrament of the mass. There being no galleries or enclosed pews in the church, its appearance is exceedingly light and lofty, and the novel and chaste character of the gas fittings harmonise well with the general style of the edifice. It was built by a body of Christians calling themselves " Members of the Holy, Catho- lic, and Apostolic Church," at an expense of about £13 3 000, and was sold to the Roman Catholics for £5,000. WESLEYAN CHAPELS. 209 MORAVIAN CHAPEL, in Upper Maudlin Street, near the Infirmary, is a neat and modern structure. It is furnished with an excellent organ. THE WESLEYANS Have eight large chapels, besides many smaller ones, viz.: — 1. Portland Street, Kingsdown, which contains several interesting monuments and an organ. The liturgy is read here. 2. Old King Street, otherwise Ebenezer, opened in 1795. 3. St. Philip's, Old Market Street, the largest chapel in Bristol, opened in 1816. 4. Langton Street, near Redcliff Church, opened June, 1828: it has a finely-toned organ. 5. Hotwell Eoad, opened in 1833. 6. Shim Lane, Bedminster, opened 1836. 7. Baptist Mills, opened in 1837. Near the spot on which this chapel is erected the Rev. J. Wesley preached his first sermon in the open air ; the stone on which he then stood has been used as the foundation of the present building. 8. Granville Chapel, near Cumberland Basin, Hotwells, opened in 1840. The above chapels are mostly plain buildings, except Granville, which is erected in the Gothic style, and has a very church-like appearance in p 210 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. the exterior. It was built by the executors of that benevolent man, the late Thomas Whippie, Esq.. of Clifton, and presented free of cost to the Wes- leyan Society. THE INDEPENDENTS Number ten chapels belonging to their denomina- tion in Bristol, viz. : — 1. Castle Green. The origin of this congrega- tion may be traced back to 1670, under the ministry of Dr. Ichabod Chauncy. The chapel was rebuilt in 1815, in a handsome quadrangular form, con- taining accommodation for 1000 persons. The following is the inscription of a tablet put up here : — In Memory of The Rev. William Thorpe, The highly esteemed Pastor of this Church and Congregation for the period of 27 years, Who entered his Master's joy on the 27th day of May, 1833, Aged 62 years. During his ministry this Chapel was erected, and dedicated to the Triune Jehovah. He was an eloquent man, and mighty in the Scriptures. 2. Bridge Street : — a branch of the meeting for- merly held in Tucker Street, and originally (temp. Charles II.) in St. James's Back, Bristol. 3. Zion Chapel, Bedminster, a square building INDEPENDENT CHAPELS. 211 capable of containing 1200 persons, erected a few years since at the expense of the late J. Hare, Esq., of this city. 4. Lower Castle Street, built in 1822; where Divine service is performed in the Welsh language in the morning, and in the English language in the afternoon. 5. Brunswick Square, opened in 1835. 6. Newfoundland Street, St. Paul's. 7. Anvil Square, parish of St. Philip and Jacob. 8. Kingsland Chapel, Dings. 9. Highbury Chapel, built at Cotham, and opened for public worship on July 7, 1843. This chapel is built in the Gothic style of the fifteenth century, and is lighted by ten Gothic windows, one of which, over the pulpit, is of stained glass. The roof and all the wood work is English oak. The pulpit, which is of freestone, is ascended by a carved oak staircase, with open banisters, in perfect keeping with the general character of the building. None of the pews have doors to them; and about half of the seats are open ones. The chapel, with its gallery, is capable of accommodating 700 per- sons, and contains nearly four hundred free sittings. There is a convenient school room erected adjoin- ing the chapel, which is capable of holding 200 children. The cost of the building is about £2,500, The land was given by Richard Ash. Esq. 212 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. 10. THE COUNTESS OF HUNTINGDON'S CHAPEL, at the bottom of Lodge Street. The foundation stone of this chapel was laid in October, 1829, and opened for public worship in Aug. 1831. It is noticed here because instead of using the liturgy as they were wont, the congregation have adopted the Independent form of public worship. THE TABERNACLE was founded by the Rev. George Whitefield in 1753, in Penn Street, better known as Tabernacle Street, Narrow Weir; and is now supplied by different ministers of the Inde- pendent connexion. The interior is appropriately fitted up, and contains a large and finely-toned organ. A FLOATING CHAPEL, fitted up with seats, pulpit, &c, for divine worship for the Seamen in port, is stationed at the Grove, Broad Quay. It is the hull of a large West Indiaman. THE WELSH CHAPEL is situated in Broad- mead. Mr. John Wesley used to preach here long before any of the present Wesleyan chapels were built. The services are now performed in the Welsh language. 213 THE BAPTISTS Have eight meeting houses, viz. : — 1. The Pithay was the first Baptist chapel erected in Bristol, the public meetings for divine worship of this denomination of Christians being previously held in the Friars, and other places. 65 We are told of a person being baptised here as early as 1652. In 1813 the congregation became so numerous, under the pastoral care of the late Rev. Thos. Roberts, 66 that a new chapel was erected in, 65 The early meetings of this society were holden occasionally in the great room of the Dolphin Tavern, at a house on St. James's Back, one on the Tholsey, and another in Christmas Street, where the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper was adminis- tered to them by a young man named Nathaniel Ingello. This gentleman, who was of a genteel figure, gave offence to the rigid notions of his communicants, by his careful attention to dress, and especially by his love for music ; his company being much in request among harmonious parties, out of the strict line of his flock. To a remonstrance upon this species of indulgence, Mr. Ingello replied, " Take away music ! take my life." He was selected by Bulstrode Whitelock, Cromwell's ambassador to Christiana of Sweden, in 1663., (who probably became ac- quainted with him during his recordership of Bristol, and who had himself been a professor of music) to be one of his two chaplains, and rector chori. He was fellow of Eton College, and became D. D. In 1660, he published a folio novel, learnedly allegorical, called "Bentivoglio and Urania." After the Re- storation, Dr. Ingello was master of the king's band. — Evans's Chronological Outline. m A tablet to the memory of this talented preacher has been 214 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. 2. Old King Street, which was opened for Di- vine worship in 1815; and to which the Pithay congregation, with their minister, then removed. 3. Broadmead. There is a considerable pro- perty, chiefly in houses, belonging to this chapel, vested in the names of at least seven trustees. The interest of which is to be applied in different por- tions, to the two pastors of the congregation, — to poor members, — and to poor Baptist ministers. The chief pastor must understand Hebrew and Greek, and is the principal at the Baptist Academy in Stoke's Croft, where young men are prepared for the ministry ; and for whose expenses whilst there some provision is also made. placed under the portico in King Street Chapel, and as it contains some historical data we insert the inscription here : — Beneath the portico are deposited the remains of The Rev. THOMAS ROBERTS, A. M. who, after a Pastorate of 34 years, Departed this Life December 21, 1841, Aged 61. The Church assembling here met at its formation in the Friars ; It afterwards worshipped at the Pithay, when the increase of its members, under Mr. ROBERTS'S Ministry, rendered a more commodious Building requisite. By his exertions this edifice was erected and dedicated to the TRIUNE JEHOVAH, 1815. " He rests from his labouis, and his works do follow him." friends' meeting house. 215 4. Counterslip, at the end of Bath Street. 67 5. Thrissel Street, near Trinity Church, West Street. 6. Upper Maudlin Street, (service in Welsh) a modern building. 7. Great George Street, Park Street, and St. Augustine's Place. These two are inserted under one head, being subject to the same ministers, rules, and regulations; two of which rules are that no one of the congregation pay any stipulated sum for his seat, or towards the ministers' maintenance ; the latter professing to live literally on the daily and hourly providence of God. THE FRIENDS' Meeting House is situated in Rosemary Street. The Society of Friends appears to have originated in this city in the zea- lous efforts of John Camm, John Audland, Edward Burrough, and Francis Howgill, in Sept. 1633. In the establishment of Quakerism in Bristol, no small stir was occasioned by William Rogers, 68 67 A very large building adjoining this chapel has lately been erected, with a handsome frontage in the Corinthian style, towards Bath Street. The upper part of the building is ap- propriated for school rooms, class rooms, &c. with ample ac- commodation for 500 children. Beneath are very eligible warehouses, with counting-houses, &c. 68 In a book named "The Christian Quaker distinguished from the Apostate and Innovator," levelled chiefly at Geo. Fox, containing thirteen "smiting queries," Rogers seems to have roused the forbearance of all the respectable members of that 216 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. one of their own members residing here, who op- posed and questioned all the proceedings of the principal leaders of that sect. A book was pub- lished by him and one Ford, called "A Brief Relation of some Passages happening amongst the People called Quakers, of the City of Bristol, since the late coming of George Fox, George Whitehead, William Penn," &c. which gave great offence. He quarreled also with Robert Barclay. THE UNITARIAN CHAPEL, in Lewin's Mead, is a neat and commodious building, with columns of the Ionic order, and geometrical stairs to ascend the galleries. A monument to the me- mory of the late Rev. Lant Carpenter, LL. D., pastor of this congregation, containing a medallion likeness of the doctor, was erected here in 1842. THE JEWS' SYNAGOGUE, formerly the Friends* Meeting House in Temple Street, is a very unique building. It was consecrated and opened for public worship with great ceremony, August, 1842. Weavers' Hall, their former place of worship, in the same street, was purchased by means of a bazaar fund, in 1843, for a school for the children of the poor, in connexion wdth the parish church of Temple. body, as his book and his general conduct were severely repre- hended at divers places by a sort of manifesto. At this time the Friends assembled in Broadmead, up stairs, George Fox was accused by him of going down to avoid being taken into custody by the soldiery. 217 I BIBLE, MISSIONARY, AND OTHER RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES. For the names of the Secretaries to the following Societies, the reader is referred to Matthews" s Bristol Directory , which is to be found at every Bookseller's shop. The Bristol Auxiliary to the British and Foreign Bible Society was instituted in the year 1810, under the patronage of the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, at a public meeting convened at the Guildhall, at which the Eight Worshipful the Mayor presided. Its funds are expended in the distribution of the Holy Scriptures in the city of Bristol and its vicinity, and in aiding the foreign and general objects of the parent society. — Deposi- tory at Mr. Oldland's, 28, Corn Street, by whom subscriptions are received. Bristol and Clifton Naval and Military Bible Society. — Treasurer, Colonel Plenderleath. The Merchant Seamen's Bible Society, for the port of Bristol, was formed in 1820. Its sole object is to supply seamen with the Holy Scrip- tures without note or comment. The Bristol Channel Mission Society. — Chaplain, Bev. John Ashley, LL. D. Society for Promoting Christian Know- ledge — Bristol District. — The parent society 218 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. was formed in 1699, of members of the Church of England, clergy ai|d laity. The Bristol Auxiliary to the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. — The parent society was formed in 1701, and was composed by the charter of the chief prelates and dignitaries of the Church of England, and of several peers of the realm. From the funds of this society, churches, schools, and other religious edifices, have been erected in our oriental dominions; and also a magnificent college at Hindoostan, under episcopal government, in which missionaries are instructed in the native languages. It also supports missionaries under the superin- tendence of the Bishops of Nova Scotia, Quebec, Jamaica, Calcutta, Australia, &c. The Prayer Book and Homily Society was instituted here about thirty years ago, for the pur- pose of distributing gratis, and circulating at reduced prices, both at home and abroad, the authorised formularies of the Church of England, in the ver- nacular tongue, and in foreign languages, without note or comment. Bristol Church Missionary Association is an auxiliary to the " London Church Missionary Society for Africa and the East," the object of which is to promulgate the doctrines and episcopal government of the Church of England among heathen nations. religious societies. 219 Bristol Auxiliary to the Church Pastoral- Aid Society, formed Aug. 1836. The object of this society is to assist the clergymen of large parishes, by visiting the poor at their homes, reading the scriptures, &c. &c. and inviting them to attend the ordinances of religion at the church. Church op England Tract Society, insti- tuted in Bristol, 1811. — The object of this society is to circulate in a cheap form, among the poor members of the Church of England, her Homilies, the Lives of her Reformers and Martyrs, extracts from their writings, and from the publications of her Bishops, with such short pieces illustrative of the primitive history, constitution, and discipline of the Church, as the Committee may approve. The Bristol Diocesan Visiting Society was formed Dec. 24, 1829, for the purpose of extending, under the direction of the parochial clergy, addi- tional means of relief to the poor and sick, through- out the city of Bristol and adjoining parishes. Bristol Auxiliary Society for the relief of poor pious clergymen of the Established Church, residing in the country, instituted in 1788. Bristol and Clieton Association eor Pro- moting the Moral and Eeligious Improvement of Ireland, formed in 1827, for the purpose of aiding with its funds the Irish Society, the Scrip- ture Readers' Society, and the Sunday School Society for Ireland. £20 chilcott's Bristol guide. The Bristol Auxiliary Hibernian Society, in aid of the London Society, formed in 1821, for the establishment of schools, and the circulation of the scriptures in Ireland. Bristol Auxiliary to the Irish Evangelical Society, formed by the Independents. Its object is to spread the gospel among the Irish, by means of resident pastors, national itinerating teachers, and scripture readers. Bristol Auxiliary Society for Promoting Christianity among the Jews, formed in 1816. Auxiliary Bristol and Clifton Society in aid of the Missions of the United Brethren among the Heathen, begun in 1733. The missionaries are employed in superintending the religious instruction of Negroes, Esquimaux, Hot- tentots, Greenlanders, and others. Bristol Missionary Society in aid of the London Missionary Society, founded in 1795. — This branch society was instituted in 1812. The parent society has missionaries in the South Seas, Ultra Ganges, East Indies, Russia, Mediterranean, Africa, and the West Indies. The Ladies' Auxiliary Missionary Society, Bridge Street Chapel, was instituted May 3, 1825. Bristol Auxiliary Baptist Missionary So- ciety was formed in 1818. The parent society has missionary stations in the East and West Indies, &c. Their missionaries in the East are principally RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES. 221 employed in translating, printing, and circulating the sacred scriptures, religious tracts, &c. ; and in the West they have upwards of 20,000 persons in connection with them, either as members or in- quirers. The Baptists have also an Itinerant Society, es- tablished for the purpose of preaching the gospel, and distributing tracts, &c. from house to house, in the villages contiguous to Bristol. Wesleyan Methodist Missionary Society for the Bristol District, was formed in 1815, to augment the general fund in London. The parent society employs nearly four hundred mis- sionaries, who are stationed in the East and West Indies, and all the other foreign dependencies of this country, as well as in Western and Southern Africa, South Seas, France, Ireland, &c. The Bristol Seamen's Friend Society and Bethel Union was formed in 1821. Its object is to extend the Christian religion, improve the morals, and promote the general good conduct of British and foreign seamen. The Bristol Itinerant Society was instituted in 1811, by the Independents, for the purpose of establishing sabbath schools, preaching the gospel, and distributing religious tracts in the villages contiguous to Bristol. Bristol City and Village Mission Society, for the diffusion of evangelical religion through this CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. city and its vicinity, by opening houses for reading the scriptures, prayer, and occasional preaching; by the loan of tracts, establishment of schools, &c. Bristol Auxiliary Tract Society, for pro- moting religious knowledge, was formed in 1802. Scriptural Knowledge Institution, was formed by Henry Craik and George Miiller, for establishing and carrying on Day Schools, Sunday Schools, and Adult Schools, the circulation of the Scriptures, Tracts, &c. It is supported entirely by voluntary contributions: nearly one hundred and thirty destitute orphans, male and female, are also clothed and educated upon the same principle. Bristol Total Abstinence Society. — This society contemplates the entire removal of drunken- ness by inculcating the advantages of total absti- nence from all intoxicating liquors. Tract Depot, 9, Narrow Wine Street. Bristol Auxiliary Peace Society, established in 1823, as an auxiliary to the London Society. Collector and Tract Depositary, Mr. John Ashton, 9, Narrow Wine Street. PUBLIC BUILDINGS FOR JURISDICTION, COMMERCE, AMUSEMENT, &c. "The busy hum of men.' COUNCIL HOUSE.— The old building which was erected in 1704, was taken down in 1824, having been found inconvenient, and the present structure raised on its site ; which was completed and opened for business in the early part of 1827. The figure of Justice, on the top of the cornice, exe- cuted by our fellow townsman, E. H. Baily, It. A., is unquestionably very fine; ordinary folks, how- 224 chilcott's Bristol guide. ever, have no notion that Justice should appear with her eyes unbound, and minus a pair of scales* On one side of the figure are the royal arms, and on the other the arms of the city, sculptured on a panel in relief. The ground floor contains the mayor's court and eight offices. A handsome freestone building has been added to the Council House, which is used as a common hall for the daily administration of justice. W!WG** NEW GUILDHALL. — The foundation stone of the New Guildhall, in Broad Street, was laid, Oct. 30, 1843, by the mayor, attended by the cor- poration, with their officers and policemen; the provincial grand master, assisted by the deputy provincial grand master, and other members of the PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 225 masonic lodges, their chaplain, senior wardens, junior wardens, deacons, &c, &c. The ceremony- was divested of much of its attraction and splendour by the heavy, cloudy, rainy, and foggy state of the weather — the procession having literally to wade through a thick bed of mud. This splendid Gothic building is now finished, and is quite an ornament to our city, as it is an honour to the architect. There are three principal entrances. Within the centre door is a corridor, 90 feet long, 12 feet wide, and 45 feet high, covered with an ornamental oak roof. On either side is arranged the Law Court, Court of Request, Courts of Bankruptcy, and rooms for the judge, mayor, counsellors, and others. One of the side entrances is to the two Courts of Bankruptcy, and the other is for the public, jurymen, and witnesses. The principal Law Court is 56 by 30 feet, and 28 feet high, with an ornamental oak ceiling. The elevation towards Broad Street is designed in the early Tudor style ; it is 117 feet long, and 45 feet high; the centre compartment runs up 28 feet higher than the general height of the front. The first floor win- dows are deeply recessed, and have niches between them, containing statues and shields, viz. Edward III., who granted the corporation charter; Queen Victoria; Dunning, and Sir Michael Foster, (both formerly recorders of the city) and Colston and Whitson, benefactors. The shields in the coupled Q 226 chilcott's Bristol guide. quatrefoil panels, over the windows of that floor, are sculptured with the armorial bearings of those who have been Lord High Stewards, and the other shields with those of Cabot, Penn, Camden, Sou- they, and other eminent men of Bristol. The statue of King Charles II., which adorned the front of our old Guildhall, is now placed in the interior, as well as the coats of arms that were in the front of the old building. BRIDEWELL PRISON, Bridewell Lane, for minor offences, and the safe keeping of criminals before what is called their commitment. Previously to the riots in 1831, the situation of the prison was singular enough, the common thoroughfare passing directly through it. It had two massive outward gates, which were always shut before midnight. But the whole of it was burnt to the ground during that awful crisis. A new Bridewell, however, is now erected, and the street widened, but the gates are not restored. THE GAOL, near Bathurst Basin, is capable of receiving upwards of two hundred prisoners. The foundation stone was laid in 1816, and completed in August, 1820. The turnkeys' lodge, fronting the river, is the entrance, on the top of which PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 227 criminals were formerly executed. The governor's house is situated in the centre of four wings of the building, and is so arranged that he has a complete view of the whole of the prison yards without leaving his room. The whole top of the governor's house is appropriated for the chapel, in which divine service is regularly performed, by the rev. the ordinary, a clergyman of the Church of England. There is a communication between each wing and the chapel, by means of four neat cast-iron bridges, for the convenience of the prisoners' attendance. The cells and other apartments are heated by Hazard's patent heating and ventilating apparatus. The prisoners are arranged in ten different classes, each class being cut off from communication with the other. Those committed for felonious practices are compelled to wear a party-coloured dress. A tread-mill is erected for the purpose of raising water for the use of the prisoners. The boundary wall, which is twenty feet high, is built with the variegated marble from St. Vincent's Rocks. The governor's house and the lodge are built of a very dry and hard stone from Hanham quarry. The whole length of the building, from east to west, is about 358 feet. The expense of its erection was defrayed by levying a rate upon the inhabitants. 228 chilcott's Bristol guide. A * J THE EXCHANGE 69 was built at the expense of the Chamber of Bristol, and cost nearly fifty 69 Four singular tables of bronze, which formerly stood under the piazza of the Tolzey, are set up in front of the Exchange ; they are similar in design, but the one nearest All Saints' Church appears, from the florid ornaments of the supporting pillar, to be the most ancient of the four. On the garter below the surface of a second of these tables is this record : — "Thomas Hobson of Bristol made me, anno 1625. Nicholas Crisp, of London, gave me to this honourable city, in remembrance of God's mercy in Anno Domini 1625. N. C." On the ring of the surface, "Praise the Lord, O my soule, and forget not all his benefits. He saved my life from destruction and to his mercy and loving- kindness. Praise " The third has the following inscrip- tion on the ring of its surface: — "This post is the gift of Master Robert Kitchen, Merchant, some time Maior and Alderman of this city, who dec. Sept. 1, 1594." On the garter beneath: — PUBLIC BUILDINGS. £29 thousand pounds. The first stone was laid March 10, 1740-1 ; on the uppermost bed of which is cut the following inscription : — Regnante Georgio II. Pio, Felici, Augusto LIBERTATIS ET REI MERCATORLE Domi Forisq ; VINDICE, Primarium Lapidem hujusque iEdificii Suffragio Civium, & JEre publico extructi POSUIT HENRICUS COMBE, Pr^tor, A. C. MDCCXL. It was finished and opened during the mayoralty of Sir Abraham Elton, Bart., with every demonstra- tion of joy; and to render the festivities as general as possible, the poor prisoners, confined in Newgate for debt, were released at the Chamber's expense. The architect was Mr. Wood, who published a descriptive pamphlet of it, containing the different "His executors were four of his servants," &c. On the ring of the surface of the fourth, which stands near the Post Office, is the following:— "A. D. 1631. This is the guift of Mr. White, of Bristoll, Merchant, brother unto Dr. Thos. White, a famous benefactor to this citie." On the garter round the exterior ; — "The church of the living God is the pillar and ground of the truth. — So was the work of the pillars finished." Six lines in verse were engraven on the centre of the table, and a shield with armorial bearings, which time has obliterated. 230 chilcott's Bristol guide. elevations and general plan. It is a very fine quad- rangle, with a piazza ; the interior is now used as a corn market ; the merchants choosing rather to assemble at the Commercial Rooms. The south side forms one of the arcades in what is termed the Old Market House ; the east and west sides are laid out in offices, occupied by attorneys, surveyors, &c. It was repaired in 1796. A few of the heads which ornamented the festoons in front are fallen off. THE CUSTOM HOUSE, on the northern side of Queen Square, was destroyed by fire during the Bristol Riots, in October, 1831. The government allowed £6,700 towards rebuilding the present new Custom House ; which, from its internal ar- rangements, is much better adapted for the dispatch of business than the old one. THE OLD EXCISE OFFICE, being burnt by the rioters, a new one has been built on the same site in the first Avenue leading from Prince's Street to Queen Square. THE POST OFFICE is a sort of wing to the Exchange, on the west; as the Norwich Insurance Office is on the east. — Postmaster, Thomas Todd Walton, Jun., Esq. 231 THE COMMEECIAL ROOMS, situated nearly opposite the Post Office, in Corn Street, opened in September, 1811, are admirably convenient, and replete with every sort of information and accom- modation. The building 70 was erected by creating seven hundred and ten shares, at £25 each share : — the shareholder pays £2 2s. per annum, or has the privilege of nominating a non-proprietor as a subscriber, who pays £3 7s. yearly: — the extra 70 Adorned in front by an Ionic portico of four columns, and "Britannia, Neptune, and Minerva, presented with tributes by the four quarters of the world,' ' beautifully sculptured in bas-relief, by J. G. Bubb, of London. The three figures on its summit represent the city of Bristol, Commerce, and Naviga- tion, by the same artist. 232 chilcott's Bristol guide. £1 5s. being considered as the interest on the £25 share. A visitor to the city, whose residence is more than six miles distant from it, may enjoy all the advantages of these rooms for one month, pro- vided he be introduced by a proprietor or his nominee. A committee of management is ap- pointed annually, on the fourth Monday in October. The London news and commercial papers, as well as those printed in the principal cities and towns of the United Kingdom are daily laid on the tables. Here also are kept correct and authentic lists of all foreign and coasting vessels coming in and clearing out from this and other ports. In the book room will be found the Encyclopaedia Britan- nica, and all the popular works of reference ; and also the various monthly and quarterly publica- tions. THE ARCADES extend from St. James's Bar- ton to Broadmead ; and were erected principally for the accommodation of the inhabitants of St. Paul, Kingsdown, &c. as affording a better medium of communication with the centre of the city. The undertaking was commenced May 27, 1824, and completed in June, 1825. The projectors and proprietors of it were Mr. John Wesley Hall, Captain Wrayford, R. N., and Mr. Paty. The Arcades are in length about 600 feet ; in PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 233 width of the walk, 12 feet ; and for uniformity, lightness, and elegance, are said to surpass those of Bath, Cheltenham, Dublin, and London. THE MERCHANT VENTURERS' HALL 71 is situated at the corner of King Street, and was built in the year 1701. The chief entrance is in Marsh Street, ascending a flight of wide steps. In the front of the building are three niches, the up- per one, over the entrance door, contains a figure intended for George III- ; in each of the others is a vase, on which are carved the merchants' arms. In the saloon is a half-length portrait of 71 The Society of Merchant Venturers was incorporated in this city by letters patent of King Edward VI., in the sixth year of his reign : and afterwards confirmed by Queen Elizabeth and "King Charles I. They have landed property to a consider- able extent, for the support of almshouses and other charitable uses. This society now consists of the principal merchants of the city, who are actively engaged in promoting its commerce, trade, and improvement. The above is the only trading company which now exists out of twenty-three, which about a century ago had their halls, gowns, flags, &c, and walked in procession on public occasions; viz. Tailors, Weavers, Surgeons, Smiths, Hoopers, White- tawers, Dyers, Joiners, Wire Drawers, Cordwainers, Tanners, Butchers, Bakers, Innholders, Saddlers, Hatters, Turners, Pipe Makers, Carpenters, Halliers, Porters, Tylers, and Masons. The Halls in which these companies were wont to assemble are now converted into cooperages, exhibition rooms, bonded warehouses, &c. &c. 234 chilcott's Bristol guide. the distinguished philanthropist, Edward Colston, Esq., painted by Richardson. The interior is very handsome. Here the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV., dined, when he visited our city in 1807. THE BACK HALL, in Baldwin Street, is the great mart for hides, leather, &c. MASONIC LODGES.— The Free Masons have two lodges in Bristol; viz. one in Bridge Street, most splendidly fitted up, and the other in Broad Street. THE THEATRE ROYAL, King Street.— This theatre, it is said, was highly eulogised by Garrick, on the score of its just dimensions: a prologue was also written by him for the opening night, which was repeated by Powell, May 30, 1766. The royal licence was obtained in 1767. 72 It is said that plays were first publicly performed in this city, in a building in Tucker Street, now Bath Street, springing originally, perhaps, from the mummeries of Temple Fair : this theatre was con- 72 In 1532, and in several succeeding years, actors, under the protection of noblemen, were hired by the magistrates, to ex- hibit in the Guildhall. — Evans' s Chronological Outline, PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 235 verted into a meeting-house. We hear of the players at one time in Stoke's Croft, — at another time pro- faning those walls which formerly belonged to Lady Huntingdon's congregation, in St. Augustine's Place : hence they were expelled, as unfit to be within the precincts of the city. They then took refuge at Jacob's Wells, on the Clifton side of Brandon Hill. In that humble theatre, many of the great names in histrionic fame " fretted their hour" for very slender emolument. The Theatre Royal is at present very ably con- ducted by Mrs. M'Cready, widow of a former manager. The Theatre is open for dramatic exhibitions from December to May. THE ASSEMBLY ROOM is on the west side of Prince's Street. The front is built with free- stone, and consists of a rustic basement, which supports four double columns of the Corinthian order, over which is a pediment. Curas cithara tollit, is inscribed in front, which means, that music is a specific for care ; but the Victoria Rooms, at the top of Park Street, from their more eligible situation and spaciousness, have almost superseded the use of the Assembly Room for the purposes originally intended when it was built. THE BRISTOL LIBRARY is in King Street. 236 chilcott's Bristol guide. In 1615, Mr. K. Redwood bequeathed a house in King Street, to be converted into a public library ; and Tobias Matthews, Archbishop of York, a na- tive of Bristol, contributed a number of books, " for the use of the aldermen and shopkeepers." In 1779, the Rev. A. Catcott, vicar of Temple, in this city, having bequeathed to this library his whole museum of minerals, fossils, and natural curiosities, with a valuable collection of books, a new wing of freestone was added to the original building for their reception. Arthur Broughton, M. D., one of the physicians to the Bristol Infirmary, (who died in Jamaica in 1796,) gave to this library a collection of speci- mens in natural history, chiefly botanical, a cabinet of coins, and several valuable MSS. In addition to the above gifts and contributions, the annual donations and subscriptions form the means of perpetually increasing the number of books, &c, in this valuable institution. A librarian or his deputy is in constant attendance during the hours appointed by the committee. "We believe the price of a share in this library is about £10 10s. by which the party becomes a proprietor, if approved of by the committee ; and an additional annual subscription of £1 lis. Qd, is paid in advance. Strangers may obtain access on application to the committee. 237 THE BRISTOL INSTITUTION/ 3 "for the advancement of Science, Literature, and the Arts," at the bottom of Park Street, was commenced in 1820; and the expense of the building defrayed by transferable shares of £25 each. The Institution was established in the spring of 1823. Every proprietor of the building has a right to be a mem- ber of the Institution, or to appoint a nominee on an unoccupied share, paying the annual subscrip- tion of two guineas. This gives access to the 73 The beautifully sculptured figures which ornament the portico are, " the Arts, Sciences, and Literature, introduced by Apollo and Minerva to Bristol, who, seated on the Avon, re- ceives them under her protection, and dispenses to them re- wards ; — whilst Plenty unveils herself to Peace, as under the dominion of their happy influence." 238 chilcott's Bristol guidb. reading rooms, which are supplied with the leading newspapers, and various foreign and English peri- odicals, and are open from nine in the morning till ten at night ; — to the museum, which is open from eleven till four ; — to all gratuitous lectures ; — and to the Philosophical and Literary Society annexed to the Institution. On subscribing to any course of lectures, a member or nominee has a privilege set of tickets ; and, either personally, or by letter, may introduce any visitors to the museum, and persons residing ten miles from Bristol for one month to the reading rooms. Strangers may also subscribe to the latter for six or twelve months; and, by a recent regulation, all individuals whether resident or not, may, on subscribing one guinea per annum, have free access to the museum, and to the scientific books of the Institution, with the power of intro- ducing their friends. This subscription also gives eligibility to the Philosophical and Literary Society. The museum is very extensive, and is held in high estimation by men of scientific eminence; yet it has been formed, with little exception, by the donations of specimens from public -spirited individuals, or by subscriptions raised for specific purposes. It necessarily entails, however, a heavy expenditure upon the Institution, to which its regular income is at present inadequate. Besides the objects of interest to the curious and the scientific, which are constantlv accessible, PUBLIC BUILDINGS- 289 and the public meetings of the Philosophical So- ciety, to which admission is easy, several courses of lectures are delivered every session, which have contributed greatly to the diffusion of knowledge ; and there have been several admirable Exhibitions of Paintings, which have essentially promoted the taste for the fine arts in this district. The following sketch of the arrangement and leading contents of the Institution, may be useful to those for whom our Guide is peculiarly de- signed. On entering the vestibule we find a cast of the Laocoon, one of Diana robing, and an Astronomical Clock ; and, from the main entrance, we have the reading rooms in view before us. Turning to the right, we enter the hall, in which are Meteorological Instruments, casts of the Frieze of a Temple of Apollo in Arcadia, a fine cast of Apollo Belvidere, the Dying Gladiator, Venus de Medici, a beautiful marble bust of Sir Thomas Lawrence, P.R. A., by Baily, a cast of James Watt, by Chantry, &c. Opposite the door is the com- mittee room, in which are many illustrative curiosities arranged geographically, and a fine antique chair. Facing the staircase is the lecture room; beyond which, in the basement, are the Laboratory, the Curator's Private Room, the Apparatus Room, &c. At the head of the staircase we find a suit of Armour ; casts of the Busts of Byron and Campbell, by Baily ; two Ma- 240 CHILCOTT'S BRISTOL GUIDE. rine Models and a Mummy, from which the outer covering has been removed, displaying the minute- ness of its envelopment; Mummy Cases; a Burmese Hindoo Idol, &c. In the circular room, over the vestibule, are other Casts from a Frieze and figures belonging to the Egina Marbles, some antique Sepulchral Urns from Deverell and other Barrows, Botanical Collections, and scientific books of refer- ence for the Museum. In the great room, on the floor, are cases containing Recent and Fossil Shells, Echinodermata, Crinoidea, Fossil Fishes, and Mam- malia ; also a skeleton of the elephant, above this a skeleton of a whale, and around the walls are many fine specimens and casts of the extinct Saurian animals, skeletons of Quadrupeds, &c. In the Gallery are found Aquatic Birds, Preparations, Reptiles, Fossil Vegetables, Crustacea, Chelonia, &c. Casts from the Egina Marbles, possessed only by this and the Liverpool Institution, are in the gallery opposite the door, arranged as they pro- bably appeared in the pediments of the Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius. From the further side of the great room, on the left, we enter the mineral room, where there is a beautiful and choice collection of Minerals, of which a catalogue lies on the cases; a classified series of Corals, Sponges, and some beautiful artificial Crystals. Above this room, passing from the gallery, is the geological room, particularly designed for PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 241 specimens illustrating the geology of the Bristol District: in which is also placed the Insect Cabinet, and two fine specimens of the recent Pentacrinus. From the nearest side of the great room, on the right, is the entrance to the zoological room, on the floor of which are many interesting specimens of the Mammalia, and of the larger Reptiles ; and in the Gallery, a considerable number of Birds. In this room is the beautiful statue of " Eve at the Fountain," by Baily, which is deservedly re- garded as one of the greatest ornaments of the Institution. It will be contemplated by per- sons of taste in different points of view; but that which best displays the exquisite delicacy and gentle reflectiveness of the countenance, as well as the graceful contour of the form, is from behind, towards the left. THE BRISTOL ATHENAEUM, Corn Street, nearly opposite the Old Bank. This institution is formed for the purpose of promoting moral and intellectual improvement, by means of libraries for circulation and for reference ; newspapers and pe- riodical publications; lectures, discussions, and classes, for instruction and improvement in litera- ture, the arts and sciences. The lectures include theological and political science, but not party or local politics, or controversial theology. There are R 242 chilcott's Bristol guide. suitable rooms for the foregoing purposes^ and also for various other classes now (1846) in the course of formation- The necessary capital fund is to be raised in donations, — in ten pound transferable shares, — and in two pound shares, also trans- ferable. The Bristol Established Church Book Association and the Bristol Mechanics 9 Institution are now amalgamated with the Bristol Athenaeum; the latter taking to the libraries and other effects of the two institutions. TERMS op subscription: — The use of the Reading Room and Library, and a transferable Ticket of Admission to the ordinary periodical Lectures ... ... Annually... £1 1 — . — — Half- Yearly 14 — — — Quarterly... 8 The use of the Reading Room and Library after Five o'clock in the Evening, and a transferable Ticket to the ordinary periodical Lectures... Annually... 10 6 — — Half- Yearly 6 6 — — — Quarterly... 4 Subscribers of 5s. 6d. 9 consisting of apprentices, or minors under 18 years of age, are entitled to the same privileges as the Annual Subscribers of 10s. 6 Melica uniflora. Melic grass. Clifton and Dugards woods. May, June. Meum Faeniculum. Fennel. St. Vincent's rocks. Minor. St. Vincent's rocks. May and June. Monotropa Hypopitys. Yellow Birds' Nest. Leigh woods. Mysostis sylvatica. Leigh and Clifton woods. Ophrys muscifera. Fly Ophrys. Woods under Cook's Folly. Orchis bifolia. Butterfly Orchis. Woods under Cook's Folly. June. Ornithopus perpusillus. Birds' foot. Brandon hill, and walls about Brislington. May to September. Orobanche elatior. Tall broom rape. St. Vincent's rocks, parasitic upon furze, ivy, &c. September, October. Orobus tuberosus. Heath Peaseling, Bitter Vetch. Clifton woods. April, May. Osmunda regalis. Flowering Fern. Leigh woods. Paeonia corallina. Peony. Steep Holmes, the only habitat in England at present known. May, June. PLANTS GROWING AT CLIFTON. 309 Paris quadrifolia. Leigh woods, ascending the path opposite the Black rock. Varieties with three and five leaves. May, June. Picris hieracioides. Oxtongue. St. Vincent's rocks. Pimpinella dioica. St. Vincent's rocks. Plantago maritima. Banks of the Avon. Rocks, Weston- Super-Mare. June, July. Poa distans. Reflexed grass. Banks of the Avon, from the dock gates to Cook's Folly, in great abundance. June, July. maritima. Muddy banks of the Avon, under Cook's Folly. July, October. procumbens. Under Clifton rocks and waste places about Rownham. July and August. rigida. Hard grass. Walls ; on a wall at the top of the hill going from W r estbury to Henbury. June. Polypodium dryopteris. Leigh woods, occurring rarely. Potentella verna. Spring Cinquefoil, St. Vincent's rocks. April, June. Prunus Padus. Bird cherry. Leigh woods. Pyrus Malus. Crab. Leigh woods. Aria. White Beam. Leigh woods and St. Vincent's rocks. May. Rottbollia incurvata. Sea hard grass. Banks of the Avon, under St. Vincent's rocks. In this grass the florets are so sunk into the rachis, that the plant in flower is rendered very inconspicuous. When the sunshine has expanded the glumes, and the white anthers hang out of them, it is tolerably easy to find. It forms a very considerable portion of the turf in several spots under the rocks. August, September. Rubas Idaeus. Raspberry. Near Redland Court. glandulosus. Blaize Castle woods . Rubia peregrina. Madder. Clifton, Leigh woods, &c. This plant is almost as common in various places in this neigh- bourhood as Galium aparine. July. Rumex. sanguinea. Bloody Dock. Banks of Avon under Leigh Woods. pulcher. Fiddle Dock. About Stapleton. 310 CHILCOTT's CLIFTON GUIDE. Sagina procumbens. Gravel walks and dry places, Brandon hill, &c. apetala. ditto, ditto. Salvia verbenaca. Wild Clary. Redland, St. Vincent* s rocks. June. Samolus Valerandi. Water pimpernel. Muddy banks of the Avon, under Cook's Folly. Saxifraga tridactytites. St. Vincent's rocks. July. Scabiosa succisa. Devil's bit. Plentifully near the keeper's cottage, Leigh woods. June, August. — arvensis. "1 Borders of fields and dry places. St. aria. 1 columbaria. J Vincent's rocks. July to September. Scilla autumnalis. Autumnal Squill. Point of land stretch- ing from the Clifton Observatory to the rocks. August, September. Sedum dasyphyllum. White Stonecrop. Walls about Belle Vue, Clifton. ■ rupestre. St. Vincent's rocks. July. Sherardia arvensis. Field madder. St. Vincent's rocks. Sinapis muralis. Sand Mustard, Wall Rocket. St. Vincent's rocks, walls about Clifton, Easton, &c. August, September. Smyrnium Olusatrum. Alexanders. St. Vincent's rocks, and abundantly on the Steep Holmes. May, June. Spiraea Filipendula. Drop wort. St. Vincent's rocks. June, July. Taxus baccata. Yew. Leigh woods. March, April. Thymus Acinos. Basil Thyme. St. Vincent's rocks. June, August. Calamentha. About Crew's hole. September, Oct. Tormentilla officinalis. Tormentil. Clifton down and woods in abundance. Tragopogon porrifolius. Meadows below St. Vincent's rocks. May, June. Trifolium subterraneum. Under-ground Trefoil. Brandon hill. May. fragiferum. Strawberry Trefoil. Under St. Vincent's rocks. LEIGH WOODS. 311 Triglochin palustre. Arrow Grass. Bogs under Cook's Folly. maritimum. Muddy banks of the Avon. Triodia decumbens. Heath, grass. Clifton down. June. Turritis glabra. Tower Mustard. St. Vincent's rocks. May, June. Verbena officinalis. Vervain. Under St. Vincent's rocks. August, September. Veronica spicata. Spiked speedwell. St. Vincent's rocks. June. hybrida. Welsh speedwell. ditto. July. Beccabunga. Brooklime. Brooks & ditches, common. officinalis. Common speedwell. Not so common in this neighbourhood ; by the sides of the new road under Clifton rocks. May to August. montana. Plentiful about Pucklechurch. Leigh woods. Viburnum Lantana. Leigh woods. May. Viola hirta. Hairy violet. St. Vincent's rocks. To the fossilist and the botanist these scenes will afford ample employment; but they should beware of the numberless smooth and tempting paths among the rocks; a single false step may precipitate the careless adventurer down one hun- dred yards of perpendicular descent ; but we are happy to record that few fatal accidents have oc- curred for the last twenty years. To an observer from this elevated spot on the Clifton side of the river,, the opposite woods in summer present a most charming appearance: they contain almost every forest tree indigenous to this country ; among which the broad-leaved sycamore, the majestic oak, the sombre yew, the lofty elm, the graceful mountain ash, with many others, are seen blending their hues together, and forming a 312 CHILCOTT'S CLIFTON GUIDE. scene of foliage which for variety and exuberance can scarcely be equalled. Here it is not un- common, during fine summer evenings, for a band of musicians to assemble, at which time the opposite side is covered with an attentive crowd. The soft sounds wafted across the water are truly enchanting ! Dr. Holland, in his travels through Greece, adverts to this charming place in the following passage : u The features of nature are often best described by comparison ; and to those who have visited St. Vincent's rocks, below Bristol, I cannot convey a more sufficient idea of the far-famed Vale of Tempe, than by saying that its scenery resem- bles, though on a much larger scale, that of the former place. The Peneus, indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not greatly wider than the Avon, and the channel between the cliffs irregu- larly contracted in its dimensions ; but these cliffs themselves are much loftier and more precipitous, and project their vast masses of rock with still more extraordinary abruptness over the hollow beneath." WEST'S OBSERVATORY, CLIFTON DOWN, AND GHYSTON CAVE, Are now open to the public for their use and amusement every day, Sundays excepted, and the former contains a variety of optical and other instru- ments ; among which are an achromatic telescope, OBSERVATORY. 313 with a fluid lens, mounted equatorially, of twenty- one feet focus, and sixteen inches aperture, in a room thirty feet in diameter, with a rotative dome, and every convenience for amusing or scientific research; also a reflector of seven feet focal length, and seven inches aperture, for astronomical uses, and for viewing the solar spots, which are interest- ing from the changes that take place in their size, number, &c. : — likewise two telescopes, of the Gregorian construction, of eight inches aperture, for viewing the varied, extensive, and beautiful scenery by which the Observatory is surrounded ; commanding views of the Channel, ships in King- road, the opposite coast of Monmouthshire, Pierce- field House, Chepstow, and other distant interesting objects. One achromatic telescope, for similar purposes : an excellent transit instrument, by Troughton, of London, with astronomical clock or regulator, accurately kept, by which Greenwich time may be truly known ; a self -registering aire- nometer, or wind-guage, indicating the force and pressure upon the square foot with great exactness ; at the same time noting every change in the twenty-four hours, in force and direction, and is particularly interesting, from the open situation of the building. Upon the summit is placed a very large and excellent Camera Obscura, embracing the whole of the surrounding scenery, from the gallery rails 314 CHILCOTT'S CLIFTON GUIDE. to the horizon. The Camera Obscura, to those unacquainted with it, has a most magical effect, the whole of the scenery being brought in succes- sion upon the table, with moving figures, animals, and carriages in motion ; the distinct and vivid colour of nature, and the varied effects of light and shade upon the landscape, afford a high gratifica- tion to the observer. Here is also a very large achromatic solar mi- croscope ; the frame is ten inches in diameter, and all the other parts in proportion ; the immense body of light condensed by it, gives a surprising richness and vivacity to the image, free from the disagree- able coloured fringes of the common solar micro- scope. Ghyston Cave. — The proprietor has, at a con- siderable expense, excavated a safe and convenient passage from the Observatory on the summit, to an hitherto inaccessible cavern in the precipitous face of the cliff below, known as the Giantfs Cave. For two years workmen were constantly employed, at an expense of about £300, in forming the passage by blasting the rock, and which, after penetrating through an extent of upwards of two hundred feet, to a depth of ninety feet, is now accomplished. On Saturday, the 10th day of June, 1835, the Cave was first entered in this way. The new passage is from the large telescope room, in the Observatory. A circular flight of stone steps is first descended to GHYSTON CAVE. 31S a depth of thirty -five feet ; the passage then pro- ceeds on an inclined plane for about one hundred and fifty feet, through the solid rock ; and another flight of steps to a depth of thirty feet, leads to the eastern end of the Cave. The Cave is now ascer- tained to be situate at a depth of ninety feet from the summit of the rock, and at a height of two hundred and twenty feet from high toater mark, making the entire measurement of rock three hun- dred and ten feet. William Wyrcestre's statement that it is sixty vethym, or three hundred and sixty feet, from the bed of the river, may therefore be adduced as an instance of the accuracy of his much disputed measurements. To the antiquary the historical details of the Cave are of considerable interest. It appears in all ancient chronicles to have been invariably deno- minated Ghyston Cliff or Cave, and was, on the 26th of September, 1480, visited by the celebrated William Wyrcestre : — he says, "The hermitage, with an oratory or chapel, in the most dangerous part of the rock, called Ghyston ClifTe, situated in a cave of the rock, twenty yards in depth in the said rock, above the river Avon, in honour of St. Vincent."' — Itinerary, p. 150, Also, "The halle of the Chapell of Seynt Vincent, of Gyston-cliff, ys ix yerdes long, and me brede ys 3 yerdes. The length of the kychyn ys yerdes, and the brede of the kychyn ys 3 yerdes. And from the chapelle of Seynt Vyncent ys to the lower water 316 CHILCOTT'S CLIFTON GUIDE. 40 vethym. And from the ovyr part of the mayn grounde londe of the seyd hygh rok down to the seyd chapelle of Seynt Vyncent ben xx vethym rekened and proved ; and so from the high mayne ferme londe of the seyd rok downe to the lowest water ground of the channel of Avyn and Frome is 60 vethym, and moch more, proved by a yong man of smythy's occupacion yn Radcliff-strete, that seyd yt to me, hath both descended from the hyghest of the rok downe to the water syde." — Itinerary, p. 54. Dallaway s Edition, In Mr. West's examination of the cavern some articles were discovered, which, though intrinsically- valueless, may still tend to elucidate its history. They consist of numerous fragments of pottery, the mouldings of which, though simple, are in some instances extremely good — in so much as to induce a belief that they are of Roman origin. A large, square, glazed tile, such as was used in paving the choirs of ancient churches, with an antique key, &c, were also among the fragments. Lying over them was a portion of a mullion of a small Gothic window, or probably of a tabernacle or shrine. The whole of these relics were care- fully embedded under a large flat stone, and were discovered on removing an accumulation of earth and weeds from the surface of the Cave. To strangers visiting the romantic scenery of Clifton, we can recommend the Observatory as worthy of their notice. It will be found the most eligible point to obtain a general idea of its local beauties, independent of the amusement afforded by the various instruments. GUYSTON CAVE. 317 The selection of this spot by the Romans for an encampment, is a single instance of their sagacity. 3 The Via Julia, the road from Bath to Caerwent, has been traced close by, running across the Down, in front of the mansion of A. G. H. Battersby, Esq. at Stoke Bishop, continuing under Sneed Park, and over the adjoining hill, where it approaches Sea Mills. There are two other grand encamp- ments on the Somersetshire side of the river, equally well chosen, the ramparts being yet visible — one is immediately opposite the Clifton, and called the bower walls ; the other to the right is called Stoke Leigh Camp ; they each overlook that very beautiful valley, or combe, by which they are separated, by some called Nightingale Valley, and by others the Happy Valley. 4 About a mile westward from Clifton extends Durdham Down, from whence the prospect of the 3 Many relics of Roman antiquity have been found in the vicinity of these camps, and numerous coins of the earlier em- perors, with urns, tiles, and inscribed bricks, particularly when building Sion and Gloucester Rows ; and from the abundance of human bones which were found, it has been supposed to have been a place of interment, after some struggles for the recovery of British liberty. 4 The reverberation produced here by the beautiful notes of the nightingale, or by music, was perhaps never heard with such delightful effect elsewhere ; the responses being uncommonly distinct, and dying away by degrees till they are entombed in complete silence. 818 CHILCOTT'S CLIFTON GUIDE. Avon, pursuing its serpentine course through the magnificent cliffs and miles of rich woodland, until its outline melts into the distant Severn, is replete with romantic beauties, sufficient to fill the sketch- hook of a hunter after the picturesque. The variety of hill and dale, the foliage clothed in its autumnal livery, possessing every diversity of colour, from brown and red through orange and yellow to the sombre green of the mournful yew, the lighter green of the laurel and the various firs, with the silver stems of the delicate birch tree, shining through the leafy glades, and the blue tint of the distance melting into the warmer hues of the nearer landscape, seem a world of glorious imagery, the force of whose beauty any further attempt at description would materially tend to weaken. On the summit of the Down, extending round the margin of a dangerous and craggy precipice, known as " Black Rock," is a wall built by a gentleman of the name of Wallis, humanely placed as a barrier to prevent the destruction of the care- less who might otherwise incautiously venture too near the verge of the giddy height. The lonely turret, shattered and outworn, of which we obtain a glimpse over the hanging copse at the extremity of the Down, bears the name of Cook's Folly. There is an old tradition belonging to this building, which may be briefly told. The SEA MILLS. 319 turret was erected by a person of the name of Cook, who having dreamt that a viper would be the occa- sion of his death, imprisoned himself here, to guard against the effects of destiny, receiving his daily food and other necessaries by means of a basket he let down from his room. Notwithstand- ing this precaution, a viper concealed in some fagots he had put upon the fire, darted forth upon him and inflicted the death-wound which had been predicted. There is also another account of a more romantic character, but not so worthy of that im- plicit reliance which some may be inclined to place upon the truth of the above. The name and date, " J. Cook, 1693," may be seen over the entrance to the tower. A John Cook was Sheriff of Bristol in 1672. From hence the scenery gradually looses its majestic and imposing aspect, becoming softer and more domestic, without any object to claim parti- cular notice until we arrive at Sea Mills, situated at the confluence of the Trym and the Avon. In this place the Romans are said to have laid up their gallies during winter. Here was once a large floating dock; but the expense and incon- venience arising from the shipping and unshipping of goods so far from Bristol, occasioned it to be neglected. A project was afterwards set on foot to make it a depot for a whale fishery; but this undertaking likewise failed. Some business was 320 chilcott's clifton guide. subsequently carried on in building and refitting ships ; but the Dock getting out of repair,, and the proprietors disagreeing, the concern was entirely abandoned. In the c Memoirs of Bristol,' this place is spoken of as follows : " You will seldom find a spot more Roman in form and situation than Sea Mills, where I fix Abona, 5 with perfect confidence" Sir R. Atkyns, in his History of Gloucestershire, says, " Before the port of Bristol was settled in Froom river, there seems to have been a dispute whether a place called Sea Mills was not as con- venient a port as the other, several large ships having been built there. This occasioned the extravagant fabulous story concerning St. Vincent and Goram; for if the port of Sea Mills had been judged more convenient, thenGoram had prevailed, because his hermitage was at Westbury, on the side of the brook Trim, which runs to Sea Mills." 6 5 The Roman station Abona (from which it is supposed our river derives its name, though some say it is the Antona of Tacitus,) has long puzzled the antiquaries with regard to its positive situation. 6 It is said that, in days of yore, Giant Vincent cut asunder St. Vincent's rocks, in competition with Giant Goram. There is a rock pointed out at Kingsweston, as Goram' s chair ; here, they say, Goram sat down to take a nap ; while Vincent, more watchful, completed the undertaking and obtained all the credit. 321 CLIFTON. Having introduced the visitor, in our remarks on the Hotwells, to its peculiarities, in regard to the waters, rocks, hotels, lodging-houses, steam packets, places of public worship, &c. we now beg permission to lead him to that part of the village aptly called Clifton. A few years have produced important changes in this place, the extent of which, as a village, exceeds all parallel. The Royal York Crescent is the most extensive pile of buildings of this form in the kingdom, and from its elevated site commands distinct views of Lansdown to the east, Dundry Hill and tower to the south, and va- rious other objects of interest in the more imme- diate neighbourhood. Cornwallis, or the Lower Crescent, situated a little below the York Crescent, is also a handsome pile of buildings. The Paragon, a beautiful convex crescent, and Windsor Terrace, are worthy rivals of the above splendid buildings, and command delightful unin- terrupted views. " Clifton, for these last thirty years or more, under the most decided improvement, has been a never- failing source of lamentation with connoisseurs of the picturesque. All cry out the place is spoiled ; that its perfection was its village state. Now this observation, with regard to Clifton, never was true. As a village^ it never had, nor could it well have, Y CHILCOTT'S CLIFTON GUIDE. any beauty at all. It was always a bare hill, with- out variety, shade, or trees, or any thing to give it an interesting character for itself. Its merit was its position, as the very spot to be built upon ; as it were, the outskirts of the territory of enchant- ment, from which it was separated by a river, not unlike, perhaps, to that which separated Elysium from the world of care. Looking from Clifton, you might see a land of f promise,' — of poetry, and the glimpse was just enough to excite the imagination; this was the view to which the eye would turn, and gaze till the thoughts would seek refuge or refreshment therein ; and standing or incumbent, with their feet or faces towards it, many were the figures you would see, and may now, ' ripae ulte- rioris amantes.' Clifton, with its fifteen thousand inhabitants, present no formidable array of in- vaders; it is not a permanent encampment on a hill, to overlook and bombard the territories of king Oberon. The beautiful woods still keep se- cure within them the hidden, the enchanted beauty, ' bosomed high in tufted trees ;' and many are the suitors that come, and at respectful distances fondly observe the magic circle in which she is embow- ered. Thus the sweetness is not ' wasted on the desert air. 5 The scenery and the buildings thus divided by the river, assist each other; they are not out of character. If Clifton Hill, instead of presenting the residences of the opulent, the culti- CLIFTON. 328 vated in taste and the elegant arts of life, were reduced to the beggary of a few poor-looking cot- tages, the opposite woods, as far as might be, would be vulgarized. Now you associate with them men- tal refinement, music, poetry, painting, — all that elevates mankind above the boor. Thus Clifton is a, residence in the precincts of enchantment ; and all within its ken and observation is a charmed -domain. You are thoroughly rescued from the sight of unseemly toil and thoughtless labour ; for the figures you meet have the e dolce far niente' air about them." 7 CLIFTON CHUKCH. The present church was opened for public wor- ship on the 12th of August, 1822 ; it is built a few feet northward of the site of the old one : it is a spacious edifice, and accommodates a very large congregation. A splendidly painted window has been placed at the east end of the church at the sole expense, we believe, of the Rev. Dr. Pusey. ST. JOHN'S CHURCH, Durdham Down. This church has recently been built near King's Parade, Durdham Down, for the accommodation of the inhabitants of that populous district ; the parish church of Clifton being at a great distance. It is built in the Gothic style ; and its interior arrange- 7 The Sketeher, Blackwood's Magazine, No. 8, [Rev. J. Eagles. ] 324 chilcott's clifton guide. ments are simple and elegant. It contains seats for 630, of which upwards of 300 are free for the use of the poor. It was consecrated by the Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, and opened for public worship on Tuesday, April 27, 184L CHRIST CHURCH, CLIFTON PARK. This new and commodious sacred edifice was consecrated by the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, and opened for public worship on Tuesday, Oct. 8, 1844. It was built by voluntary subscription, and forms the fifth church for the parish of Clifton. The patronage is vested in Trustees. Christ Church is designed in the early English, or pointed style of architecture, which prevailed in this country in the 13th century, as exemplified by parts of the Cathedrals at York, Salisbury, Peterborough, Carlisle, &c. The church comprises a nave, with an apsidal chancel, and a north and south transept. The chancel is ascended by five steps, and is separated from the nave by an arch, 44 feet high ; the transepts are also divided from the nave by arches, 34 feet high. The character- istic features of the style, with disengaged columns and deeply-recessed moulding, being carried out to the greatest extent that the funds at the disposal of the Committee would permit. The ceiling is open, of wood, appropriately decorated, and texts CLIFTON. from scripture ornament the walls. At the south- west angle of the aisle, is a tower advanced the first stage, but waiting the necessary funds for its completion. Sittings are provided for upwards of 1000 persons, including 350 open sittings. There is also an elegant chapel erected in Richmond Park, originally designed for the use of a Baptist congregation, particularly noticeable on account of the elaborate richness of its architectural details. Beyond Richmond Park has been lately built a stately row of elegant and commodious houses, called Lansdown Place, which it is intended should form one side of a square, for which some very tasteful designs have been presented, and the buildings are already erecting. THE ROYAL HOTEL Is situated in the Mall, and contains the assembly rooms, with suit of card and tea rooms. The whole structure has a very imposing effect ; its interior accommodations are of the first description, and the attention paid by its conductors to the convenience and comfort of the visitors, secures their entire satisfaction. THE BATH HOTEL, Opposite the Downs, has long established its re- 326 chilcott's clifton guide. putation : those visitors who have once availed themselves of its hospitable entertainments, require no other inducement, when again called to the vicinity, to make this house their home. There are several very excellent boarding houses in Clifton r Sion House, delightfully situated on the Downs, commanding views of the most romantic scenery, the river, &c. &c. obtains the entire ap- probation of its visitors, not more for the beauty of the situation, than for the attention and good management of the proprietors. No. 4, Lansdown Place, a newly erected and magnificent pile of building, has been also opened as a boarding house. The parts of Clifton which are most particularly appropriated to occasional visitors are as follow : — Royal York Crescent, Prince's Buildings, Paragon Buildings, Caledonia Place, West Mall, the Mall* Sion Row, Gloucester Row, Portland Place* Boyce's Buildings, and Richmond Terrace. The Post Offices of Clifton and the Hotwells are only receiving houses ; letters are distributed from the Bristol office three times a day. Persons at a loss to find their friends, will obtain the best infor- mation at the Bristol Post Office. Clifton and its advantages, as a residence, are every day becoming better known and appreciated; supplies of every description, from the most luxu- CLIFTON. 327 rious to the simplest article, can be immediately procured, and at reasonable prices. In three hours the traveller by railroad may reach the metropolis ; twenty minutes will place the man of fashion in Bath ; one hour and half, and he may find himself in the very centre of his pursuits, — Cheltenham. The variety of rides, drives, walks, views, scenery, rural retirement, commercial bustle, occasional balls, concerts, &c. &c. cannot be excelled by any place of fashionable resort in the kingdom. The assemblies are held every alternate week, during the winter season, at the Eoyal Hotel Assembly Rooms, tinder the superintendence of C. Yaughan, Esq. M. C. and are respectably attended. Mr. V. resides at No. 2, Paragon Buildings. The subscription Billiard, Card, and Reading Rooms, near the Hotel, are well supported by gen- tlemen proprietors, and their friends. SION SPRING. This spring was discovered in 1796, by Mr. Morgan, an attorney of Bristol, who, being about to build a house on the hill above the Hotwell, determined to obtain water, if possible, on his premises. With this view, the miners dug and blew up the rocks, till they came to the depth of two hundred and forty-six feet, before they accom- plished their object, when, of a sudden, a stream 328 chilcott's clifton guide. gushed in upon them so impetuously, that they had great difficulty in escaping the inundation. Mr. Morgan, on discovering that this water had the same properties as that of the lower house, erected an engine for raising it daily, built a spa- cious pump-room, and prepared bathing places adjoining. Sion Spring now supplies nearly all the inhabit- ants on the western side of Clifton with water, to be used for domestic purposes. When taken from the pump, it raises the thermometer to seventy- three degrees, though drawn from so great a depth. The Reading Room and Public Library, at Sion Spring House, conducted by Mr. Haggett, Jun. contains a valuable collection of standard works, to which are added every modern publication of merit ; a catalogue of the whole may be had at the library. Stationery, in all varieties, sold here. Mr. Lancaster's Library, at Portland Place, near the Mall, is supplied with a very large collection of New Books, and with an extensive assortment of stationery and useful articles. The other Library is conducted by O. C. Lane & Co. at Nos. 5 and 6, Sion Place, opposite the Downs, and at No. 2, Regent Place ; their cata- logue contains upwards of five thousand volumes of the most esteemed modern publications, in the various departments of literature. At the entrance of Clifton Down is an elegant CLIFTON. 329 house, built by Sir William Draper, now the pro- perty of Mrs. William Miles, and named Manilla Hall; on the right of the entrance is an obelisk, with the following inscription : — Gulielmo Pitt, Comiti de Chatham, Hoc Amicitiae Testimonium, Simul et Honoris publici Monumentum, Posuit Gulielmus Draper. And on the left hand is a cenotaph, consisting of a raised tomb, supporting a large vase, with an urn at the top, well executed in freestone. On the side of the vase are some elegant verses ; and be- neath, on a tablet — Sacred To the Memory of those departed Warriors of the Seventy-Ninth Regiment, By whose Valour, Discipline, and Perseverance, The French Land Forces in Asia Were first withstood and repulsed ; The Commerce of Great Britain preserved; Her Settlements rescued from impending Destruction. The memorable Defence of Madras, The decisive Battle of WANDEWASH, Twelve strong and important Fortresses, Three superb Capitals, ARCOT, PONDICHERRY, MANILLA, And the PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, Are lasting Monuments of their Military Glory, Their generous Treatment Of a vanquished Enemy Exhibits an illustrious Example Of true Fortitude and Moderation, 330 chilcott's cliftox guide. Worthy of being transmitted to latest Posterity ; That future Generations may know Humanity is the Characteristic Of BRITISH CONQUERORS. The sides of the tablet are inscribed with the names of the officers of the seventy -ninth regiment who fell in Asia. At the ends of the tomb, in small oval tables, is the following : — Siege of Madras raised, Feb. 17. . . . 1759 Conjeveran taken by storm April 13. . . . 1759 Battle of Wandewash gained Jan. 22 1760 Arcot recovered Feb. 10. . . . 1760 Corical taken April 5. . . . 1760 The lines of Pondicherry stormed . . Sept. 10. . . . 1760 Pondicherry surrendered Jan. 16. ... 1761 Manilla taken by storm Oct. 6. . . . 1762 Though Sir W. D. was of humble origin, (being the son of a custom-house officer of this port,) yet his great talents raised him to the distinguished rank of a general officer in the British army. He was equally adroit with the pen as with the sword. With the former, he proved no mean antagonist for the celebrated Junius ; and with the latter he con- quered Manilla. Opposite to Clifton Church is the house of William Goldney, Esq. celebrated for its curious grotto. To gratify a laudable curiosity, respectable strangers may ori Thursdays obtain admission to view the highly picturesque grounds and grotto, on CLIFTON. 331 application at the house of the liberal owner, be- tween the hours of ten and twelve in the morning. ZOOLOGICAL GAKDENS. A ramble in these gardens will amply repay the visitor for the short extension of his walk, it being only a few yards beyond the turnpike on the Clifton Down. The Gardens are the property of a society com- prising nearly three hundred members, and were first opened to the public in June, 1836 ; and as they were only commenced in the preceding autumn, it was a theme of surprise, admiration, and con- gratulation, as well on the part of the public as of the proprietors. Lying immediately on the margin of the Downs, commanding a wide view of the finely-wooded banks of the river Avon, and the heights crowned by the Observatory — of Tyndall's Park and the adjoining country, but little assistance was required from the hands of art. In adapting the plantations which encircle the grounds, as well as those which are distributed throughout its interior, to a systematic classifica- tion, the committee of management had in view the prospect of being able to form, at some future time, a Botanic Garden in conjunction with the present establishment. The committee have also been 382 chilcott's clifton guide. extremely desirous to render the Gardens attractive, as well to the votaries of pleasure as of science, and to prepare them as a scene of general recreation, so much wanted in this vicinity. Of easy access from Bristol and Clifton, a noble terrace of nearly three hundred yards in length offers to the delicate and infirm, to the infant and the aged, a dry and sheltered and sunny walk, secured from the perils and interruptions of dust and dirt; and the remainder of the Gardens present ample shade, and the coolness of lawns and lakes, during the heats of summer, to the pedestrian who shrinks from the broad sunshine of the unplanted Downs. The entrance lodges, which invariably attract the notice of the stranger, are commended for their good taste, and certainly do great credit to the architectural skill of the designer. The massive building erected for the bears, at the extreme end of the grand terrace, strikes the visitor immediately upon his entrance ; and at the same time that it elicits his admiration, prepares him for further pleasure, and enlists his interest in favour of the Gardens. The menageries are of substantial and orna- mental construction; and advantage has been taken of the experience of other similar establishments, in the system of heating and ventilating, with many other improvements in the internal economy of CLIFTON. 333 their arrangements, found to be conducive to the good health of the different animals. The Zoological collection is, we believe, at this time, as extensive and valuable as most other simi- lar establishments. The lake is universally considered to be the best specimen of " ornamental water" in the vicinity ; and together with the tastefully erected rock-work, that seems, as it were, to rise up from its bosom, present a picture of very unique and pleasing interest, and cannot fail to call forth the full admi- ration of the visitors. Our space will not allow us to be more minute in our description, and we must close this notice with the insertion of the terms of admission, which we think for such a treat is exceedingly liberal on the part of the proprietors. TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION : Whole Family, (residing in one house) £ 1 1 for 1 year. Ditto ditto 15 „ 6 months. Ditto ditto 10 „ 3 „ Ditto ditto 6 „ 1 „ Ditto of a Shareholder 10 6 ,, 1 year. Two Persons in one Family 15 „ „ One Person 10 6 „ „ Ditto 7 6 ,, 6 months. Ditto 5 „ 3 „ Ditto 2 6 „ 1 „ The public admitted on payment of sixpence each person, One servant, having the charge of children of any Subscriber, admitted gratis. 334 chilcott's clifton guide. Visitors to our delightful village will find the cars and flys of great assistance in their little ex- cursions : they are in general very well conducted, and the charges are moderate. It is well, how- ever, to make an arrangement with the master, whose name is painted on the carriage, and patro- nize one proprietor as much as possible, thereby securing attention, civility, and punctuality. We now take leave of Clifton, and beg to intro- duce our readers to a description of the principal villages and seats in the environs of Bristol. These we have arranged in alphabetical order, that the reader may find the place wanted with greater facility. ABBOTS' LEIGH, Deriving its name from having formerly belonged to the Abbots of St. Augustine's, is a village situated on the brow of Leigh Down ; and is about four miles west of Bristol. Here lately stood an old mansion, formerly the residence of Sir G. Norton, whose loyalty induced him to conceal King Charles II. in his own house, at the hazard of his own life, after the battle of Worcester. It is said, that when his pursuers made inquiry of the cook- maid for him, she, to prevent suspicion, applied a stick to the back of poor Charles, and scolded him for not winding up the jack : (a block of wood abbots' LEIGH. 335 is still preserved, on which it is said the king stood to perform the menial office) this so completely deceived the inquirers, that they actually interceded in his behalf, and went to search elsewhere for the king. From Sir G. N.'s house he removed to Trent, in Dorsetshire, and eventually embarked for France with Lord Wilmot, both of whom assumed the garb of Isle of Wight coal merchants. It may be matter of curious observance to note, that upon the same spot which afforded a harbour and a refuge, in his fallen fortunes, to the son of a martyred king, in those stormy and turbulent times when bestowing upon him the shelter of a roof was denied unto his people, and visited not only with reproach and condemnation, but frequently by the alienation of estate and the sacrifice of life itself, — that here the son of another sovereign was recently received and entertained with the charac- teristic loyalty and hospitality of our land, which still animates and expands the bosom of all classes, the poorest as the most wealthy, tending by its unanimity to preserve the peace, harmony, and happiness of society, and by its continuance to surround us with an indomitable fortress, the power, greatness, and prosperity of this mighty empire. The church is a plain building, situated on an eminence which commands a beautiful view of the Severn. Within the church are some monuments 336 chilcott's clifton guide. of the Norton family, of whom the Thomas Norton, renowned for his skill in the occult sciences, and who resided in St. Peter's churchyard in the fifteenth century, was an ancestor. ALMONDSBURY Is six miles and a half from Bristol, on the road to Gloucester. This village is said to have derived its name from Alemond, a West-Saxon prince, the father of Egbert, the first sole monarch of England (who it is supposed was buried in the church). A camp or berg is situated close by, near the Severn, — a commanding station. In the year 1650, a coffin was dug out of a tumulus at Over, near this parish: the bones were those of a man, whose height must have exceeded the common stature by more than three feet : the corpse was buried sitting, which was the customary method of interring kings and princes. The church is a very old building, and the spire covered with lead. The river Severn is a beautiful object seen from thence. ASHTON From Clifton, crossing at Rownham Ferry, is but half a mile, from Bristol over Bedminster Bridge is about three, its locality is most pleasing, situated in a richly wooded vale, having the lofty ridge of ASHTON. 337 Dundry to the south, and a corresponding range of hills to the north. It is famous for its straw- berry gardens, for the perfect enjoyment of such delicious fruit, with the addition of cream, number- less parties flock hither during the season, when a band of music is engaged to add to the gaiety and amusement of the company. In the village there are many comfortable lodging-houses, having good accommodation. The church is dedicated to All-Saints, and its original foundation is attributed to the family of the Lyons: it is divided into a nave, chancel, north and south aisles, and two chapels, one on each side. A beautiful Gothic screen, which formerly supported the rood loft, remains ; and in the north chapel is a costly monument, with effigies of Sir Richard Choke and his wife. Sir Richard Choke, who was chief judge of England, died in 1486. Recent repairs and appropriate renovations have contributed very much to the beauty of this building. Ashton Court, the seat of Sir John Smyth, Bart., is built on a gentle eminence, in the centre of a luxuriantly wooded park, which was originally enclosed and planted by Thomas de Lyons, in 1391, under a licence granted by Richard II., and who from that time added the name of Ashton to the family appellation. The most ancient part of this building was erected by the Ashton Lyons, who resided in it, and whose arms and devices z 338 chilcott's clifton guide. continue conspicuous on many parts of it. At the back part of the mansion the ancient gateway still remains, leading from the park to the outer courts, in which the Gothic windows, battlements, and projecting buttresses, are preserved, and is still called the Castle Court. The present front was erected in 1634, by Inigo Jones. 8 The entrance to this mansion is by a castellated lodge and gate- way, from the road leading to Weston-super-Mare. A gallery of fine paintings, amongst which is a series of family portraits, adds considerably to the interest of the interior. Above the house is a connodial hill, with a group of trees called the " Tump," where are the remains of Ashton Camp, occupying a considerable space, covered with thorns, blackberry bushes, and other underwood. BADMINTON, The seat of his Grace the Duke of Beaufort, is about sixteen miles north-east from Bristol. This magnificent mansion is adorned with some fine paintings and antique sculptures, and also contains a fine library. The parish church was built by his late Grace, the sixth Duke, and is much admired. 8 Rutter's Delineation of the North-West Division of the County of Somerset. BADMINTON. 339 It is said that two of the family monuments in it were executed in Italy. An affecting monu- ment to the memory of the late Duke of Beaufort is placed in the private chapel of the Beaufort family at Badminton, by his present Grace, whose filial reverence and feeling for his lamented sire prompted him to erect a magnificent piece of sculpture. It is comprised of a plain centre tablet^ placed between two very elegant pilasters of un- usually pure statuary marble, and resting on a broad and noble plinth of vein stone. The pilasters, decorated with the portcullis, garter, and ducal coronet, support a rich and elaborate pediment, the scrolls and foliage of which are of excellent workmanship, and are surmounted by the arms of the family, carved in bold and beautiful relief. The whole repose against a background of pure dove marble, the tints of which tone finely with the general character of the monument, form- ing an ensemble seldom witnessed in designs of this description. The inscription is as follows : — Sacred to the memory of Henry Charles, Sixth Duke of Beaufort, K. G. Born Dec. 22, 1 766 ; succeeded his father, Henry, fifth Duke, Oct. 11, 1803; died Nov. 23, 1835, in the 69th year of his age. In kindness of heart, suavity of manners, gentleness and meekness of disposition, in humility and diffidence of his own merits, in integrity of purpose and uprightness of con- duct, few equalled — none surpassed him. 340 chilcott's clifton guide. It may be truly said of him, that he was the rich man's friend, and the poor man's benefactor. In every station of life he shone pre-eminent. He was the most dutiful of sons, the kindest of fathers, the best of husbands, the most affectionate of brothers. He lived diffusing happiness and comfort around him ; his death was that of a true Christian. He died universally beloved, respected, and lamented. In remembrance of his many virtues this tablet was erected by his affectionate son, Henry, seventh Duke of Beaufort, A. D. 1837. BANWELL, Sixteen miles from Bristol, was once celebrated for its monastic establishment, long since for- gotten and passed away. The Bishop's Palace is supposed to have been erected on its site by Bishop Beckington, who flourished during the middle of the fifteenth century ; at the commencement of the last it lost its ecclesiastical distinction, and became known as Banwell Court; the parts of the palace, not then demolished, were, with the exception of the chapel, removed a few years past, by the pre- sent proprietor. There was also a fine park to the eastward of the village belonging to the palace. Banwell Church is an unusually fine parochial edifice, attributed to Bishop Beckington, and, like many more, bearing traces of successive extensive repairs not always in conformity to the style in BAN^JbXL. 341 which they are designed. Outside it strikes us by its loftiness and correct proportions, inside by the richness and amplitude of its details. The groined roof of the nave and tower, the ornamental oak screen, the remains of the rood loft, the stone pulpit, the ancient font and the brasses, are all ob- jects of abiding interest to the archaeologist and the antiquary; to the latter the churchwardens' ac- counts, commencing in 1516, will be found very curious. Banwell Caves are highly interesting objects, and will amply repay the curiosity of the visitor. They are situated at the western point of Banwell hill, immediately above the extensively populated village of that name, about one hour's journey from Bristol by railway. The late bishop of Bath and Wells, who was lord of the manor, erected a neat and ornamental cottage, in 1827, for his occasional residence ; and with the laudable view of preserv- ing the bones, &c. in the Caves, purchased from his tenant the lease of the ground, enclosed it, and laid it out with ornamental shrubs. From the summit of the hill, which is nearly half a mile in length, abounding with ochre, calamine, and lead, a most delightful and commanding prospect is obtained of Brent Knoll, and, of a clear day, Bridg- water spire to the south; Congresbury spire and Yatton church to the north ; Weston-super-Mare, Worle, and the Severn, with tke Monmouthshire coast to the west 342 CHILCOTT's CLIFTON GUIDE. To Mr. Beard's intelligence, zeal, and perse- verance, the public are indebted for the very in- teresting discoveries contained in Banwell Caves. His house is on the south side of the hill,- half a mile from the caves, where he has some of the finest and choicest specimens of bones, &c. pre- served in old oak cabinets, and which he feels great pleasure in showing to his numerous visitors. The sentences which every where meet the eye on arriving at the cottage and caves, are admirably calculated to awaken and to call into exercise the best feelings of the heart. Immediately in front of the bishop's cottage, on a tablet in the wall, is the following: Here once where druids trod in times of yore, And stain' d their altars with a victim's gore ; Here now the Christian, ransom' d from above, Adores a God of mercy and of love. And over the small cave at the entrance, Here let the scoffer of God's holy word Behold the traces of a delug'd world ; Here let him in Banwell Caves adore The Lord of heaven ! then go and scoff no more. There are two principal caves, one larger and deeper than the other ; they contain bones of the bear, wolf, ox or buffalo, deer or stag, fox, wild cat, mouse or bat, &c. How or by what means such an amazing collection of bones came there, is a question deeply interesting and difficult to determine, and about which geologists are by no means agreed* 343 BEDMINSTER. This parish, which, in ancient times consisted of only a few cottages, is now grown so populous, and crowded with buildings, as to form a very con- siderable addition to the city of Bristol. Before the Bristol and Exeter Railroad was formed, it was the great thoroughfare to the west of England. It was anciently the lordship and estate of the lords of Berkeley, and continued in that family during several successions. On the western side of the road, near the Police Station, the hospital of St. Catherine was erected in 1219. The church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, consisting of a nave, chancel, and north aisle, and standing a little southward of the village, has flou- rished ever since the Saxon days, and has been endowed with large revenues. It is a prebend in the cathedral church of Salisbury ; and at the time of the conquest, the then officiating priest held within the manor and parish one hundred and twenty acres of land- At the western end is a large square tower, with open balustrades at top, containing a clock and two bells. On this tower once stood a steeple, which fell down in 1563. During the civil war, in 1642, 200 horses were sent on to Bristol under Commissioner-General Ireton, to preserve the neighbourhood of the city from plunder and firing, and thus secure quarters, 344 chilcott's clifton guide. when Bedminster church was desecrated by being converted into a stable ; it must have been mate- rially injured on this occasion, as we find that in 1663, when peace again smiled over the land, it received a very general repair. The chancel win- dows are enriched with stained glass, the gift of Robert Phippen, Esq. The only ancient monument to be found in it is on a flat stone in the chancel, to the memory of the family of Grinfield, which states that they settled here in the second year of Edward I. The Rev. Thomas Broughton, author of Biblio- theca Historica Sacra, and projector of the Bio- graphia Britannica, was vicar in 1774. St. Paul's Church, in which a large portion is appropriated to free sittings, has lately been erected opposite the New Gaol, for the accommodation of this populous district, of which the Rev. Mr. Eland is the minister. A chapel for the Independent Protestant Dissent- ers, has also been erected near Bedminster bridge, by the late J. Hare, Esq. at his sole expense, with an outlay of £4,000, and was opened for divine worship by the Rev. Dr. Chalmers, June 15, 1830. BERKELEY. The ancient family of the Berkeleys are so in- corporated with Bristol, that a few words respect- BERKELEY. 345 ing their residence, cannot well be omitted from these pages. The village of Berkeley, nineteen miles from Bristol, on the Gloucestershire road, is much visited for its strong castle, part of which, retaining much of its olden character, is liberally- thrown open for the inspection of the public. It is a place historically interesting, and painfully associated with an eventful epoch, from the circum- stance of Edward II. being murdered here. The room in which the barbarous deed was committed is still shown, and if we may believe the annals true, there still remains evidence of the crime in the blood-stained floor. Adam, bishop of Hereford, is notorious for having written ambiguous words to the king's keeper to promote the death of the sovereign, and yet escape the odium and punish- ment of his guilt. The words bear a contrary con- struction according to the stops in reading them. " To murther King Edward fear : not to do it is praiseworthy." " To murther King Edward fear not — to do it is praiseworthy." The church is of great extent, and consists of a nave, aisles, and spacious chancel, with a chapel on the south side, the sepulchre of the Berkeley family, in which are some stately monuments, with effigies carved in white marble. At a short dis- tance, in the churchyard, is a tower which probably belonged to the old church. Dr. Edward Jenner, who in 1799 introduced 346 chilcott's clifton guide. vaccine inoculation, for which he obtained a grant from parliament of £10,000, was a native of this parish. BLAIZE CASTLE, The seat of J. S. Harford, Esq., is situated in the parish of Henbtjry, about four miles and a half north of Bristol. The approach to the house is conducted through a deep and richly-wooded glen, and is full of romantic beauty. The house is an elegant edifice, and contains many fine pictures, collected by Mr. Harford in Italy. The surround- ing pleasure grounds are exquisitely diversified with wood and lawn, and the walks which conduct to and from the castle are fraught with fine views and enchanting scenery. The ground-plan of the castle is a circle flanked on the outside with three round towers, equi-distant, forming a triangle ; in one of these is a geometrical staircase, by which you ascend to a large and elegant Gothic room. A chapel once stood here, dedicated to St. Blazius, the patron of the wool-combers. Here are to be traced very extensive remains of a strong Roman camp, though concealed in a great degree by the overhanging woods. Many Koman coins of brass and some of silver were found in digging the foundation of the castle in 1766, and the present owner has at different times found more when BLAIZE CASTLE. 347 employed in planting. The fame of the Blaize Castle grounds, and the noble prospects which they command, induce so many visitors to request permission to view them, that Mr. Harford has appointed Thursday in every week, as a day for public gratification; and those who wish to embrace this opportunity, have only to send their application by post, or otherwise, (so that it be received before Thursday,) to the gardener, Blaize Castle, or to the Gothic lodge at the top of Henbury Hill, after which immediate admission will be given, and every attention shown them. Should circumstances prevent attendance on the day fixed, it is necessary to send another notice, as a Guide being required for each party it is essential to know what number to provide. From the grounds of Blaize Castle, the visitor will be led to Blaize Hamlet, consisting of ten cottages, erected in 1810, at the expense of the late J. S. Harford, Esq. for a most benevolent purpose. A visit to them has long formed a favourite excursion from the village of Clifton and city of Bristol. "Wh.eth.er regarded distinctly, or in combination with each other, these cottages are justly deserving of that public interest which they have excited. Each is in itself a truly picturesque object; and by means of the skill displayed in their mutual contrast, shape, and collocation, they form, from various points of view, most pleasing compositions, and offer a variety of subjects for the pencil. 348 chilcott's clifton guide. "The air of comfort diffused over these little dwellings; the play of light and shadow produced by their projections and recesses, which afford shelter to a variety of beautiful creepers ; the highly ornamental and varied character of the chimneys ; and the beauty of the surrounding little gardens, glittering throughout the summer with flowers of the brightest hues, and guarded from the intruding hand by hedges of sweetbriar, suggest the most pleasing images to the fancy, and shed a romantic and poetical character over this favoured asylum. The only rivalry we could hear of as existing among its inhabitants, was 'Who should first The welcome spring salute, — whose borders shew The earliest bloom, the sweetest, proudest charms Of Flora.' " The interior of these abodes is not less gratifying than their external aspect. The rooms are comfortable and well arranged. Every cottage has its oven and boiler ; and so equal are they in point of accommodation, that each possessor will be found, upon inquiry, happy in the persuasion that his own dwelling is the prettiest and the best upon the green. "The founder of Blaize Hamlet was the late John S. Harford, Esq. ; who, after effecting, with equal judgment and taste, a series of striking improvements in the romantic domain to which it is an appendage, gratified at once, by this final work, his love of the picturesque, and his feelings of benevolence. His object was to provide a comfortable asylum for persons advanced in years, and who had a sufficient income to maintain them comfortably, when relieved from the expense of house rent. He did not long survive the completion of the plan ; but it was his delight, as long as his health permitted, to visit a spot in which he had been the means of centering so much happiness. "These cottages were erected in the year 1811, from the designs of John Nash, Esq., whose name is well known to the public, as the architect principally concerned in the recent improvements carried on in the metropolis. It is due to him BRISLINGTON. 349 to add, that he entered with lively interest into the project ; and has often been heard to say, that no palace which he ever planned, had imparted to him a pleasure comparable to that which he derived from this humble employment of his talents and ingenuity." 9 BEISLINGTON Lies about two miles and a half south-east from Bristol, on the road to Bath. When the gate called Xew Gate, in Bristol, was ordered to be removed, a gentleman of Brislington had the materials con- veyed to his estate and there re-erected ; having previously obtained some ancient statues, once affixed to Lawford's Gate, and formerly belonging to the Castle. These relics are still to be seen, and we hope they may not be again disturbed. A gentleman resides here, who has collected drawings and remains, portraits, &c. relating to ancient and modern Bristol, to a very great extent. In the church is a tomb-stone, with the following inscription : — 1542, Thomas Newton, aged 153. This stone was newly faced in the year 1771, to perpetuate the great age of the deceased. It is supposed that the figure 1 was prefixed on the old monument in the way of sport, as no tradition remains of this venerable man. 9 From the introduction to a very splendid series of lithographic engravings of these cottages, by Harding, from drawings by O'Xeil. 350 chilcott's cltfton guide. King John, at the request of Isabel his wife, granted this manor (attached to the honour of Gloucester and Castle of Bristol) to Sir John de la Warre ; one of whose successors is stated to have been present at the battle of Poictiers. In 1328, a petition was presented to parliament at the suit of John de la Warre, complaining that the manor of Bristleton, which then and always was without the bounds of the king's chase, called Kingswood, and also that of Fillwood, had been included within the said chases by the wardens thereof. One of the lords de la Warre founded a chapel here to the honour of St. Anne, the height of which to the vaulted arch was eighty feet, having nineteen but- tresses. Particular mention is made of this chapel by William Wyrcestre. St. Bartholomew's priory, in Bristol, was purchased by the executors of Robert Thorne, of Sir Thomas West, and Lord de la Warre, its patrons, in the reign of Henry VIII. It has been stated that Robert de Gourney, founder of Gaunt's Hospital, was also named De Warre, or De la Warre. Sir John de la Warre was also of Knowle. BROCKLEY, So celebrated for its beautiful Combe, is the resi- dence of John Hugh Smyth Pigott, Esq.the Lord of the Manor, whose family mansion is adorned with a fine and admirable collection of paintings, some BURNHAM. 351 of which are choice specimens of modern artists. In the drawing room are the celebrated chairs on silver castors, which belonged to Cardinal Wolsey, and were in his palace at Esher- The library comprises 6,000 volumes of rare and scarce books, besides several extremely valuable ancient manu- scripts. Articles of virtu and interest are to be found in each apartment ; amongst the furniture may be noticed Napoleon's chairs and couch, from Mal-Maison. The church is small, but elegantly and appropri- ately fitted up with rich and elaborate carvings, for which, a fine toned organ, and other furniture and decorations, it is indebted to the munificence of Mr. Pigott. For fine romantic effect and rude grandeur, the ravine called Brockley Combe can scarcely be surpassed, being a remarkable glen, with loftly acclivities on each side, where vegetation is most luxuriant, and trees of all shapes and character are scattered in the most interesting confusion. It is so well known to the artist, or amateur, and parties of pleasure, that enlarging our pages by any attempt at description would be superfluous. From Bristol it is rather more than eight miles. BURNHAM Is two miles west of Highbridge and twenty-seven 352 chilcott's clifton guide. from Bristol, situated at the mouth of the river Parret. It is celebrated not only as a fashionable watering place, but also for its chalybeate and sul- phuric springs. In the parish church is a very handsome marble altar-piece representing the na- tivity, designed and sculptured by the famous Inigo Jones, which the visitor will do well to see. It was presented to the parish by a late bishop of Rochester, who had formerly been rector of Burn- ham. CHEDDAR. The village of Cheddar consists of four irregular streets, with an hexagonal market-cross nearly in the centre. The population is about two thousand. Some distance beyond are the celebrated Cheddar Cliffs, a stupendous chine or chasm through the highest ridge of the Mendip Hills. The approach from the village is extremely picturesque and beautiful; "a brook, clear as crys- tal, leads its murmuring course by the side of the road on the left, backed by a shrubby wood, at the edge of which are a few humble cottages ; and on the opposite side, the ground swells into a steep, sufficiently covered, however, with verdure and ve- getation to form a soft feature in the scene : but as the visitor advances, the abyss suddenly expands, the rocks assume a more precipitous character, CHEDDAR. 353 presenting bold and almost perpendicular points with bare and rugged tops, towering many hundred feet above the level of the country." The visitor is not, however, permitted to enjoy or contemplate the scene without perpetual inter- ruption from the resident females, who unremit- tingly persevere in offering for sale small polished specimens of the rocks, or in recommending a visit to the several caves, few of which are either striking or capacious. From a ledge of rock, in front of the entrance to the cave above that which had formed the comfortless habitation of a poor . woman for many years, the view amply compen- sates for the roughness of the ascent; being considerably heightened by a bold insulated mass of rock, rising perpendicularly in front, on the opposite side of the chasm. There is here also a most extraordinary and in- teresting stalactite cavern, recently discovered by Mr. Cox, on his own property, in the valley leading to the cliffs. It has one main porch and three or four lateral branches, narrow fissures about ten or twelve feet broad, and some thirty or forty feet high, vested and draped with the most fantastic and beautiful marble stalactite one can conceive, forming festoons, drapery, pillars from four to fif- teen feet in height, fonts or basins of the purest water, bacon, bread, &c. &c. The floor, when dis- 2a 354 chilcott's clifton guide. covered, was a mass of stalagmite covering rounded gravel, of tlie mountain stone, filling up about ten feet of the bottom. The owner has cut galleries through this stalagmite ; and is an excellent show- man, lighting the whole with a group of candles on a tin plate, which he raises to the roof, or thrusts through the narrow fissures, so as to exhibit the whole to perfection. It has been remarked by many visitors, that the interior parts of this cavern resemble the grotto of Antiparos, in the Archipelago. It is so perfectly clean and easy of access, that the most timid and deli- cate female may explore it without inconvenience. A rough carriage road winds for nearly two miles through the cliffs, until it reaches the summit of the hills, presenting various advantageous points for viewing the wild and tremendous magnificence of the scenery; the rocks alternately projecting on one side, and receding on the other, and on either hand rising almost perpendicularly into the most wild and picturesque forms; sometimes resembling the " ruined battlements and solitary towers of a stupendous castle," having their perpendicular fronts partially covered with ivy, and beautifully intersected by verdant ledges, scattered over with the mountain ash and darker yew, intermingled with the crimson mountain pink, and other flower- ing shrubs peculiar to this romantic district. CHEDDAR. 355 Nine considerable springs, 10 pure as crystal, burst from the foot of the rocks, and almost imme- diately uniting together, form a beautiful stream, dashing over a rough bed of sand, mixed with shingles, and sprinkled with fragments of rock, over which the water murmurs, keeping in perpetual motion the curious aquatic plants, 11 with which its surface is covered; and these mingling their deeper shades with the blue and amber-coloured cone of the fresh water limpet, that adheres to the rocks scattered over its bed. 12 A paper by Mr. W. Long was read at the meeting of the British Association, at Newcastle, descriptive of a bone cavern near Cheddar, containing human as well as other animal bones. The fact of human bones being found embedded in any old formation is of rare occurrence, especially when found in connexion with extinct animals. The cave is in a limestone rock, about thirty feet deep, which on entering has the appearance of lofty chambers tapering into an arch-way, which again opens into lofty chambers, on the bottom of which are found human skulls and bones, mixed with those of bears, deer, oxen, &c. embedded in soil, and evidently of remote origin. 10 The water which, forms the springs at Cheddar is, probably, sl stream which shrinks into the chasms of the rock above, at Longwood, and in another place, on Charter House farm. 11 Particularly the Polypodes, Asplenums, and Confervas. l * See Rutter's Delineation of the County of Somerset. 356 chilcott's clifton guide. CHEPSTOW, Monmouthshire, Is three miles from Aust Ferry, on the Beachley side. Since the establishment of steam vessels, Chepstow has been much frequented; having in its immediate vicinity the ruins of a stately castle, and the romantic neighbourhood of Piercefield, Wynd Cliff, Tintern 13 Abbey, the Banks of the Wye, &c. &c. One of the towers is built on the edge of a rock, over-hanging the river Wye. Here, covering the structure from the foundation, the festooned ivy has luxuriantly spread, and, com- bining with both, could almost seem to make one coeval with the other. The eastern entrance to the castle lying between two lofty towers, approached by a gentle acclivity, indicate the care and labour bestowed upon its fortification, as seen in the pon- derous strongly-latticed portals, the crossing of which are secured with iron bolts within, and covered with iron plates without. The groove in which the portcullis worked still retains its original appearance, and there may also be observed two large round funnels or machiolations in the soffit of the arch, for the purpose of throwing down stones, or pouring down molten lead, &c. on the heads of the assailants. Henry Marten, one of the regicides who presided at the condemnation of Charles L, 13 See Tintern and its Vicinity, illustrated with numerous diagrams, wood engravings, &c. by W. H. Thomas, Surgeon, M. R. C. S., published by J. Chilcott, Bristol. CHEPSTOW. 357 was confined in this castle for life. The ancient keep is distinguished as Henry Marten's tower, containing the gloomy noxious dungeon in which prisoners of war were said to have been incarce- rated. One of the now roofless apartments is tradi- tionally assigned as the abode of the regicide for be- tween twenty and thirty years, till death released him. This fortress was of great importance during the civil wars, and the scene of many violent and gory conflicts. At its last siege, when it was taken by the parliament, in the year 1648, Sir Nicholas Kemeys and about forty men were slain by the republicans. So excited were the soldiers on this occasion, that they barbarously cut the flesh in stripes from the body of Sir Nicholas, and wore them like cockades in their caps, repugnant and loathsome favours of their sanguinary triumph. It is difficult, so hardly have- years dealt with this fabric, so vividly has ruin left the impress of its annihilating power on all around, to distinguish in the shells of the apartments scarce a vestige to which their original purposes might be traced. Where are the cloudy trophies of the victor's triumph ? Where the thousands of the great and powerful, who, flushed with war's excitement, once mingled here in the glittering pageantry? The breath of their short lives is but as a flash of thought, lighting the records of time's deep gulph, and its shadow are the ruins which lie mouldering 358 chilcott's clifton guide. at our feet. A power mightier than man has waged against the massy fortress, and laid it waste ; the dissolving hand of centuries has touched it; the shroud of mutation has enfolded it; and behold ! there are heaps of stones, crumbling walls, clinging ivy, rank grass, noxious weeds, rottenness, decay, wildness, desolation, and loveliness; time's epitaph on man's ambition, traced by the finger of ruin on the relics of feudal magnificence. Topographical writers differ as to the antiquity of the castle. It was formerly, however, of great extent, as according to Leland's account, the "waulleS began at the end of the great bridge over Wy." The chapel belonging to the castle has some Saxon arches, constituted in part of Roman bricks, which declare it to have existed prior to the general building : it is said that the priests had the address to impose on the people, that it was erected by Longinus, a Jew, father of the soldier who pierced the side of Christ! The iron bridge, of five arches, built in 1816, cost £20,000, to pay which a rate was levied on the counties of Gloucester and Monmouth; the centre arch spans one hundred and twelve feet. The original church, a beautiful old building of Norman character, was formerly an alien priory of Benedictine Monks to the Abbey of Cormeil, in Normandy, and has, within these few years, been very much enlarged. The remains of Henry Marten were originally deposited in the CHEPSTOW. 359 chancel, but have been removed into the body of the church, at the instance of a former incumbent, who declared that the body of a regicide should never disgrace the chancel of that church of which he was the vicar. In the north transept the follow- ing acrostical epitaph, written by himself, ap- pears: — Here, Sept. 9, 1680, was buried A TRUE-BORN ENGLISHMAN, Who, in Berkshire, was well known To love his country's freedom 'bove his own ; But being immured full twenty year Had time to write, as doth appear, HIS EPITAPH : Here or elsewhere (all's one to you, to me,) 2?arth, air, or water, gripes my ghostly dust, None know how soon to be by fire set free : deader, if you an old-try 'd rule will trust, You will gladly do and suffer what you must. My time was spent in serving you and you, y^nd death's my pay, it seems, and welcome too ; Revenge destroying but itself, while I To birds of prey leave my old cage and fly : Examples preach to the eye — care then (mine says) Not how you end, but how you spend, your days. King Edward I. once visited Chepstow, on the following occasion : In order to settle a contest be- tween Edward and Llewellyn, a prince of Wales, the former appeared upon Aust Cliff; the latter 360 chilcott's clifton guide. stationed himself at Beachley, upon the opposite shore, without either of them moving to meet the other. Edward at length entered a boat, and or- dered it to be rowed across. Llewellyn, struck with this instance of magnanimity, as soon as the boat approached, quitted instantly the spot upon which he stood, threw off his robe of state, and darting into the water, to the height of his breast, he laid hold of the boat, addressing his rival thus : " Most wise king, your condescension has over- come my pride, and your wisdom triumphed over my folly : tread upon that neck which I had lifted against you, and enter the land which you have made your own. 55 Nothing less than carrying Edward to land upon his shoulders would satisfy the Welsh prince ; and upon Edward's landing, he did him homage as his vassal. Visitors landing from the steam packet, should their time be short, may have conveyances toPiERCE- field, Wynd Cliff, and Tintern Abbey; or plea- sure boats to Tintern may be immediately procured. Piercefield Park, is one mile from Chepstow. The house contains many handsome rooms, and some beautiful specimens of tapestry; but the greatest attraction of this celebrated estate is the view from its walks, which are most romantic and diversified. The walks extend from Chepstow Castle to Wynd Cliff. The most picturesque scenery may be seen from the points named the TINTERN ABBEY. 361 Alcove, the Platform, the Grotto, the Lovers' Leap, Paradise Seat, Piercewood Top, and the Doable View, which is a natural diorama. That Piercefield is more frequented by visitors than even Stow or Blenheim, is not surprising ; for while the boast of these princely domains are the beauties of art, Piercefield exhibits in the richest abundance the magnificence of nature. The view from the summit of Wynd Cliff 14 is generally considered to be the most beautiful in England. From the edge of a rock, nearly a thou- sand feet high, the prospect extends into nine counties. The Wye under the feet of the beholder — the Severn beyond it — the narrow separation for several miles between the two rivers — their union at the head of the little peninsula of Beachley — the sea in the distance — the mountains of Brecon and Glamorgan — the Gloucestershire and Somer- setshire hills — the Castle and cliffs at Chepstow — the numerous vessels — and the rare combination of evergreens, rocks, ruins, woods, hills, valleys, plains, and water, defy all adequate description, except perhaps from the magic pen of the author of Waverley. This commanding pinnacle of ob- servation (which is three miles from Chepstow, and two from Tintern Abbey) is daily the source 14 A gun being fired from the summit of this Cliff, the sound reverberates from rock to rock, and is carried up and down the river, until by degrees it dies away like distant thunder. S62 CHILCOTT'S CLIFTON GUIDE. of admiration and delight to numerous visitors, who resort to it from all parts, by the new road through St. Aryan's. Immediately below Wynd Cliff, at the bottom of the wood, a neat cottage has been erected, the interior of which is entirely lined with moss, and furnished in the rustic style. Here the weary traveller will find every attention paid to his wants and comfort, which it is in the power of the humble inmates to give him. The interior of Tintern Abbey cannot be seen on Sundays. The sensations occasioned by a sight of the Abbey, are prettily expressed in the follow- ing lines: — " How many hearts have here grown cold, That sleep these mouldering stones among ; How many beads have here been told, How many matins here been sung. " On this rude stone, by time long broke, I think I see some pilgrim kneel ; I think I see the censer smoke ; I think I hear the solemn peal. " But here no more soft music floats ; No holy anthems chanted now ; All hush'd, except the ring-dove's notes Low murmuring from yon beechen bough/ ' For a more ample description of these celebrated regions of the picturesque, we must refer the reader to Archdeacon Coxe, and to the author of " The Banks of the Wye." 363 CLEVEDON, In Somersetshire^ twelve miles and a half west of Bristol, is not only celebrated for the fine and ro- mantic views which it affords, but for the delightful prospects which meet the eye during the whole of the coach road thither. It is situated a few miles south-west of the mouth of the Avon, and has ac- quired a considerable degree of importance as a watering place; hotels having been recently erected to accommodate its numerous visitors, as well as detached villas and other residences, on the slope of the hill, commanding delightful views of the coast, the Steep and Flat Holmes, &c. &c. Among the objects of attraction are the ruins of Walton Church and Walton Castle. There are also many very pleasant walks in the vicinity. The following description of Clevedon Court is extracted from Chilcott's Clevedon Guide : — "This ancient mansion is the seat of Sir Charles Abraham Elton, Bart., beautifully situated on the coast of the Bristol Channel, about twelve miles from the city of Bristol. The manor belonged to a family which used the local name from the reign of Henry the Second to that of Edward the Third, and then passed by heiresses, through the names of Hogshaw and Lovell, to that of Wake. The first of the latter family here seated was Sir Thomas Wake, a gentleman of the Privy Chamber to King Edward the Fourth. His descendants were afterwards baronets ; and from a junior branch of them sprang William Wake, Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1715-1737. Clevedon passed from the Wakes about the reign of Charles the First, to 364 chilcott's clifton guide. John Digby, Earl of Bristol ; and from that family it was pur- chased by Sir Abraham Elton, who was created a baronet in 1717, and who was great great-grandfather to the present pos- sessor. " The county of Somerset abounds with the remains of ancient court and manor-houses, of which the present is unquestionably one of the most valuable, exhibiting a noble simplicity and cor- rectness of design. It was built during the occupancy of the Clevedons, in the reign of Edward the Second. Its external design is remarkable for the breadth and boldness of the porch and the long window, between which is the only other window by which light is admitted on the south side. The ancient chimneys and turreted pinnacles are interesting specimens of their age. The kitchen was rebuilt in the reign of Elizabeth, and possesses considerable merit : its prevailing ornaments are imitated from an older style — an example which was neglected by the architect who was afterwards employed on the other side of the building ; whilst, as if to prove that taste in archi- tecture could sink still lower, the west front was, during the last century, rebuilt in the Chinese Gothic fashion. " The interior of the hall has been modernised, excepting the space under the gallery ; which, with the arches of entrance, retains the original triple doorways leading to the kitchen and its offices. On the northern side is the fire-place, with a window immediately above it, now filled with the royal arms of England from Egbert to George IV. On the western side of the hall is a carved stone doorway, conducting to the apartments on the 6ide of the mansion, through a wall of great thickness. "The ancient portion still exhibits so solid and durable a character, that the external alterations which the building underwent in the sixteenth century, must surely be ascribed rather to a preference for the style of architecture which belonged to the period first named, and which was characterised by broad and lofty windows, with many mullions, than to any decay in the strength of the original edifice, or any deficiency in the dimensions of its apartments ; and this opinion seems corrobo- rated by the fact, that the walls of the principal members were CLEVEDON. 305 not demolished, but only altered, and perhaps a little heightened and the singularly-formed pediments by which they are sur- mounted, were made to out-top the roof of the magnificent hall, whose gable was never very prominent above the parapet. A far more sweeping alteration was made on the side of the offices, which were probably enlarged and extended on all sides, beyond their ancient limits ; but age has rendered these venerable ; and their design is so handsome, that they cannot be viewed without admiration. We will not condescend to describe the alterations ®f still later date on another side of the house. Walpole, who viewed with admiration his own architectural productions at Strawberry Hill, and those of a kindred genius at Arno's Vale, near Bristol, might have applauded the attempt of his contem- porary at Clevedon Court.' ' The old village church stands on Clevedon Point, a small distance from the precipitous cliffs. It is a small cruciform building, with a tower in the centre, and quite incapable of accommodating one third of the present population of Clevedon. In consequence of which a new church has been built in a more central situation, for the convenience of those residents and visitors who reside in modern Clevedon, chiefly by the contribution of G. W. Braikenridge, Esq., of Broomwell House, Bris- lington, whose son is the present incumbent. COTHAM, Situated between Redland and Kingsdown, is about three quarters of a mile from the Exchange, Bristol, and contains the residences of many highly 3(36 chilcott's clifton guide. respectable families. There is an observatory seventy- feet high, in the grounds near Gotham House, which commands an extensive panoramic view. A new dissenting chapel of the Independent denomination has been recently opened here. DUNDRY, Five miles from Bristol and fourteen from Bath, from its elevated and commanding situation is at once an object of attraction to the artist, the geolo- gist, and especially to the admirer of nature, as affording on a clear day one of the most enchanting panoramic views from its tower in the west of England. The cities of Bristol and Bath to the north and east are both in view; the hills about Calne and Devizes, seen above the former, bound the prospect. To the right of Bristol are seen the hills near Berkeley and Stroud, in Gloucestershire, and the view extends to the Malvern summits. From north to west the Severn, with the Welsh coast and mountains for nearly forty miles in length, and the Quantock hills, near Bridgwater, appear to view. To the south the eye ranges over a rich and beautifully varied country, and sees Stourhead, Knoll Hill, and Clay Hill, near Warminster, bounded by the high lands in the vicinity of Shaftesbury. The tower of Dundry Church is one hundred feet in height, and much resembles the tower of THE HOLMES. 367 St. Stephen's, Bristol. The architectural character of the diminutive church adjoining, is of a much earlier date. The tower is regarded by the old inhabitants of Bristol as a sort of barometer; for looking at the state of the clouds in its vicinity, they generally know what weather to expect. In the churchyard is a stone shaft twelve feet high, placed on circular steps, which is evidently the remains of an ancient cross. The church, which was probably built in the twelfth century, dedicated to St. Michael, consists of a nave, south aisle, and chancel. It is particu- larly diminutive in contrast with its lofty and well-built tower, which was built in 1482. The living is annexed to Chew Magna, and is in the deanery of Redcliff and Bedminster. Before the porch is a large and massive stone called the " Dole Stone," so named we believe because the poor were anciently paid on it. FRENCHAY, Gloucestershire, Is four miles north-east of Bristol. Most of the houses are built of freestone, and have a handsome appearance. An immense petrifaction, in the form of a muscle, weighing two tons, taken from a quarry at Downend, is placed at the east end of the common. THE HOLMES. The Flat Holme, — An island in the Bristol 388 chilcott's clifton guide. Channel, is eight miles distant from the Somer- setshire coast, nearly opposite Weston-Super-Mare. It is a favourite termination to aquatic excursions from Bristol, and a place of considerable resort in the summer. In circumference it is about one mile and a half, sixty acres of which comprise a dairy farm, the farm house being also an inn, and form only one habitation. Upon the most elevated part of the island, is a light-house eighty feet in height, with a revolving light, a welcome object to the anxious mariner, when the shades of evening gather over his trembling bark. There are two graves on the Flat Holme, which, contrary to all received usages of ancient sepulture, are dug north and south. These, it is considered probable, are the graves of two of the descendants of Tracy, who founded the Abbey of Woodspring in expiation for the murder of Thomas a Becket. If the murderers who smote the anointed Primate of the Holy Church be here consigned to oblivion, perhaps feelings of the direst remorse might have actuated them in desiring to be buried contrary to the usual direction of Christian graves. The Steep Holme. — About three miles to the south of the Flat Holme, is a rock one mile and a half in circumference, whose summit rises four hundred feet above the level of the water. It is accessible only from two narrow creeks on the north- eastern and south-western sides. The soil is barren HEXBURY. 369 and unproductive, with one native flower, the peony, alone to relieve the sterility of the spot. There is much historical interest attached to this desolate retreat, but the limited pages of a Guide forbid our entering upon the subject. HENBURY Is an extensive and very pleasant village, about five miles north of Bristol. It is bounded on the east by Almondsbury ; on the west by the Avon ; on the north by the Severn ; and on the south by Clifton. Many very opulent families reside in this village. The church and churchyard are remarked for their neat and appropriate arrangements ; in the former are many handsome monuments of the Southwell (the late Lord de Clifford's) family, and others ; and in the latter are a great variety of tombs and monumental epitaphs. In the year 1623, a school was endowed here by Anthony Edmonds, for the gratuitous instruction of all children residing in the parishes of Henbury, Westbury, Horfield, Redwick, Northwick, and Aust. The old school house being found inconve- nient and out of repair, a new one has been erected near the church, by the present trustees. 2b 370 chilcott's clifton guide. ILFRACOMBE (A direct communication with which is now opened by means of the steam vessels) is delightfully situ- ated on the north coast of Devon, near the mouth of the Bristol Channel. Within the pier, which projects into the sea, is a large commodious basin, where ships of any burthen may enter, tide permit- ting, and rest with perfect security in the most violent storms. There are public baths erected here for the convenience of hot and cold sea-water bathing. Outside the pier are several creeks, where there also are many bathing machines. The harbour forms a semi-circle, surrounded with hills, from the summits of which are many delightful views to the east and west ; and in a clear day, the coast of Wales, with the island of Lundy, may be distinctly seen. The entrance into the harbour is particularly picturesque and romantic, the stupendous rocks, by which it is sheltered and enclosed, impressing the mind with a feeling of grandeur and sublimity, more especially when the waters are lashed into fury and the tempest broods darkly over the hills, the scene is most awful and effective. One street, about a mile in length, constitutes the town ; at the upper end of which is the church. There is a public market here once a week, and provisions are plentiful and cheap, especially fish. KEYNSHAM. 371 The Britannia Hotel has very good accommo- dations, and the lodging houses are numerous and let at reasonable prices, A handsome new building, consisting of a spa- cious assembly room, a news room, and a billiard and card room, was opened on the day of the coro- nation of George IV. The country in the neighbourhood of Ilfracombe, though very hilly, is very pleasant, particularly towards the east. Watermouth, about three miles from Ilfracombe, is the seat of D. Basset, Esq. ; generally visited by strangers. At Combe Martin are the remains of some mines, from which silver was extracted in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. At Barry cane the scenery is bold and singularly striking; but the chief attraction here are the shells to be met with. From Ilfracombe to Barnstaple is a delightful ride of nine miles distance. KEYNSHAM, A market town, about five miles from Bristol, on the line of the Great Western Railway towards Bath, was once noted for its abbey, and also for its being the principal seat of the Cangi. It chiefly consists of one street of low houses, which is almost a mile in length. Here woad is cultivated, which is used in dying blue. Very fine specimens of tr^e cornu ammoni are found in the quarries here ; they 372 chilcott's clifton guide. are vulgarly said to have been serpents changed into stone by Keina, a British virgin saint, from whom the town is named. A priory was founded here by William Earl of Gloucester, in the year 1164, which was surren- dered to the crown in 1539, from which period it gradually fell to decay, and in 1776 finally dis- appeared. The church, a large and spacious edifice, was appropriated to the abbey, and is first referred to as early as 1292. It was much damaged in 1632, during a violent tempest, which threw down the steeple of the tower and crushed the principal parts of the fabric. Its most interesting features are the monuments in the chancel, where is a ponderous and massy altar tomb, upon which reclines the armoured effigy of Henry Bridges, Esq., who died in 1586, and on the opposite side is a splendid mural memorial, with the kneeling effigy of Sir Thomas Bridges, attired in the full costume of the court of Charles II. KING'S WESTON, The residence of P. W. S. Miles, Esq., M. P., is about four miles from Clifton, and an object of attrac- tion to all visitors. No one ever regretted the time king's WESTON. 373 and labour spent in arriving at the prospect this neighbourhood affords ; or having seen it, failed to bestow on it unqualified admiration. The house originally belonged to the Southwell family, and was built by Sir John Vanburgh, somewhat in his usual style, but its situation imparts to it a more noble and imposing effect than generally belong to the designs of this architect. Mr. Seyer observes, " This narrow ridge (King's Weston Hill), about a mile in length, — covered with the finest turf, having on one side the view of the Severn and its shore, for twenty or thirty miles upwards, bounded by the high lands of Monmouthshire, and Wales; and on the other side a prospect of the whole vale of Gloucester, overlooked by the Cotswold Hills ; — will scarcely yield on comparison with any situation in the kingdom." To the west of King's Weston is a hill called Penpold, from which are some beautiful prospects. You look down on Kingroad, where wind-bound ships lie at anchor, and upon that magnificent sheet of water where the Avon forms a junction with the Severn, dividing the English from the Welsh coast, and forming the Bristol Channel. The blue hills of Glamorganshire and Monmouthshire in the back ground, complete the picturesque and varied effect of the whole. 374 chilcott's clifton guide. LAMPLIGHTERS. About a mile from Shirehampton, on the bank of the river, situated close to high water mark, is a good inn called Lamplighters' Hall, once a place of considerable resort during the summer months, to witness the busy scene at the mouth of the Avon. It was built by a Mr. Toy, a contractor for lighting half the parishes in Bristol. The worthy distributor of oil and cotton-wick, — for in his days gas was unknown, — intended the hall for his country residence, having constantly before him the romantic and picturesque village of Pill, but he grew tired of the smell of the brackish water, and the villa became an inn. Philip Weeks, nephew to " Jack," of patriotic and Bush-keeping celebrity, was "mine host" at Lamplighters for many years. It was here William III. landed, upon his return from Ireland, after the battle of the Boyne. Opposite Lamplighters is the little port of Pill, where is a custom house, at which all vessels leaving the port of Bristol are obliged to take their last clearance, and from which they are sup- plied with pilots. LEIGH COURT. This princely establishment is the residence of LEIGH COURT. 375 W. Miles, Esq., M. P., erected at a cost unlimited, by his late father. Whether we regard the sub- stantial and elegant exterior, or the highly finish- ed and classical decorations of the interior, the liberality and fine taste of the late worthy possessor are apparent. The south is the principal entrance. It is an Ionic portico, supported by four massive columns; there is a similar portico on the north side, and also a piazza to the east. The great hall possesses singular architectural beauties. A double flight of steps, leads to a peristyle of the Ionic order, around which are twenty appropriate marble columns, supporting a lofty dome, lighted by painted glass. The floor is of chequered marble, on which are four magnificent vases from Wanstead House. Indeed "Wanstead House and Fonthill Abbey have contributed their choicest specimens of art to enrich this splendid mansion; and its picture gallery is the boast of the West of England : few collections in the kingdom can compete with this for rarity and value. A catalogue of this superb collection, accom- panied with etchings, was published by the late Mr. Young, engraver, and keeper of the British Institution ; from whose prefatory observations we extract the following : "Among the highly meritorious individuals, who have enriched the country with works of ancient art, we are in an eminent degree indebted to the 376 chilcott's clifton guide. late R. H. Davis, Esq., for many years one of the most attentive and efficient members of Parliament that ever represented Bristol ; by whom this collec- tion was principally formed, and whose refined taste led him to select the finest specimens of the Italian school, brought hither during the late period of revolutionary spoliation. When these pictures had been for some years in the possession of Mr. Davis, his friend Mr. Miles, being desirous of adorning his noble mansion at Leigh Court with a splendid gallery of paintings, contracted with him for the purchase of the whole : and, actuated by the ardent spirit of his predecessor, he has added very many fine pictures from various collec- tions, and especially from that of the late Henry Hope, Esq. Every facility of introduction is afforded by the liberal proprietor to those whose taste induces them to visit Leigh Court ; and many of the finest pictures in this collection have, at different times, appeared in the exhibitions at the British Institution, Pall Mall." This collection comprises the following inesti- mable pieces ; viz. in — THE BILLIARD ROOM. Conversion of St. Paul ... Rubens, Holy Family ... Carlo Maratti. The Graces Titian. Virgin and the Infant Christ ... Sassa Ferrato. William Tell . . . Holbein. LEIGH COURT. 377 THE MUSIC ROOM. The Cascatelle of Tivoli Gaspar Poussin . The Companion Ditto. Pope Julius II Raphael. Head of the Virgin Correggio. Christ entering Jerusalem Paolo Veronese. The Vision of St. Jerome Parmigiano. Ecce Homo ... ... ... ... ... Carlo Dolce. The Virgin and Child Caracci. The Adoration of St. Bernard Mengs. Joseph and the Angel ... ... ... Guercino. St. John ... ... ... ... ... Lionardo da Vinci. The Wise Men's Offering ... ... ... Giovanni Bellini. St. Peter Guido. The Virgin and Child ... ... ... Vandyke. The Entombment ... ... ... ... Caracci. A Landscape Gaspar Poussin. Grace triumphing over Sin ... ... Parmigiano. Head of St. John Baptist ... Murillo. A Sea Port Claude. A Fog ... ... ... ... ... Vernet. The Virgin, with the Infant Jesus ... Raphael. THE LIBRARY* St. John writing the Revelation Murillo. St. John ... ... ... ... ... Correggio. THE SALOON.f The Landing of iEneasJ Claude. The Sacrifice of Apollo J Ditto. • At one end of this room is a carious pedestal clock, once in the posses- sion of Napoleon Buonaparte ; and at the other is a well-executed bust of the late Mr. Miles, by Chantry. The two marbled mantle-pieces are particu- larly fine, and the ceiling is richly finished. t In this apartment are two handsome china vases, and a circular slab of verde antique, mounted on gilt dolphins, from Fonthill. % From the Altieri Palace. The history and escapes of these paintings from the grasp of the French authorities abroad, and subsequently from the custom-house officers at home, are not a little singular. It is said that Mr. Davis paid Mr. Beckford £12,000 for them. 378 CHILCOTT S CLIFTON GUIDE. Holy Family ... Rubens. Woman taken in Adultery ... Ditto. "Venus and Adonis Titian. St. John . . . Domenichino. THE DRAWING ROOM. "Virgin with the Infant Jesus ... ... Raphael. Creator Mundi ... Lionardo da Vinci, The Procession of Chaucer's Pilgrims to Canterbury ... Stothard. Magdalene ... Guercino. Landscape ... Salvator Rosa. Christ bearing his Cross . . . Raphael. Virgin and Child . . . Bartolomeo. Passing the Ford ... ... Claude. Christ preaching in the Temple ... Compano. Cleopatra Guido. Portrait of Philip IV. of Spain ... Velasquez. The Crucifixion ... Michael Angelo. The Water Doctor . . . Gerhard Douw. Virgin and Child . . ... Murillo. The Death of St. Francis ... Correggio. Ditto . . . Caracci, after ditto* Cows ... P. Potter. THE DINING ROOM. The Virgin in Adoration Velasquez. St. John Caracci. Virgin and Child ... Andre del Sarto. A Storm ; the Calling of Abraham Gaspar Poussin . The Martyrdom of St. Andrew ... ... Murillo. The Flight into Egypt ... Ditto. Figure of Music , . . Romanelli. A Nymph Sleeping ... Domenichino. A Jew Rabbi ... Rembrant. A Landscape ... Salvator Rosa. A Sea Port . . . Claude. NEWPORT. 379 Diana and Actseon ... Annibal Caracci. Susanna and the Elders Guido Cagnacci. The Plague of Athens ... ... ... Nichola Poussin. Mr. Miles, with true liberality, affords the public opportunities for viewing this inval uable assemblage of the choicest productions of the most celebrated masters; and surely no one, whom business or pleasure brings to this neighbourhood, will fail to embrace such an advantage. To obtain permission to visit Leigh Court, it is necessary to address a note to Mr. Miles, at the Counting House, 61, Queen Square, on the Mon- day previous to the Thursday (the day on which the Paintings are viewed,) requesting an order for the applicant and three friends, which will be de- livered on being applied for at the Counting House, on the following Wednesday. [From April to July the house is closed] NEWPORT, Monmouthshire, Sixteen miles from Chepstow, is daily frequented by steam vessels from Bristol. This place arose out of the ruins of Caerleon. 15 The castle stands 15 According to some accounts, such was the extent of Caer- leon in the days of its grandeur, that it covered a tract of coun- try nine miles in circumference. Its splendid palaces, its stately edifices, and gilded roofs, might, according to Giraldus Cam- brensis, have vied with those of Rome itself. The baths, its aqueducts, its stoves, and other proofs of ancient grandeur, were even in his time displayed in their ruins. Many coins have supplied the cabinet of the curious from this spot. 380 chilcott's clifton guide. on the western bank of the river Usk, at a little distance from the bridge : it was apparently erected for the defence of the passage over the river, to- wards which it has three strong towers. It was built with small rubble stone, but quoined with square ones ; and has Gothic windows, elegantly- decorated. Near the castle was a Roman military way, called Julia Strata; and there is a ford in the stream, called Nant Hentham, where, it is reported, King Henry II. had his freckled face benefited; for Merlin Sylvester, the prophet of Wales, had predicted that the Welsh should be conquered by a prince of such a complexion, who should pass that ford. The church is built on an eminence, and com- mands a fine prospect. On the right from New- port is a turnpike road to Pontypool, and on the left to Cardiff. The commerce and population of Newport are greatly increased of late years. As a seaport it is safe. Its chief trade is in iron and coal. The Monmouthshire Canal communicates here by a ba- sin with the Usk river, and by that means with the Bristol Channel: and as the Monmouthshire Canal again communicates with the Brecon Canal, and the Avon, Ebwy, and other railroads, Newport becomes the grand depot for the heavier articles of trade of that part of the interior of South Wales. A commodious dock for vessels is now formed here. 381 THE NEW PASSAGE Is nine miles from Bristol. A regular communica- tion is kept up with the opposite side daily : the distance across is three miles. The title of Netc Passage arose from its renewal, in 1713, after its abolition in consequence of the following incident : King Charles I. being pursued by a strong party of his enemies through Shire- Newton, got into a boat at the Black Rock, (New Passage) and was ferried to the opposite shore. His pursuers, to the number of sixty, with drawn swords, compelled other boatmen to ferry them after him ; but these being in the king's interest, landed them on a reef of rocks, called the English Stones, near the Gloucestershire coast, where they were instructed to ford, — indeed the strait was fordable at low water — but the tide flowing in very rapidly, they were all drowned in the attempt, and the king for that time escaped. Cromwell, being informed of the transaction, abolished the ferry ; nor was it renewed until after a long chan- cery suit between an ancestor of the present pro- prietor, and the guardians of his Grace the Duke of Beaufort. THE OLD, OR AUST PASSAGE, Is eleven miles from Bristol. A steamer crosses the Severn from thence to Beachly, on the opposite OOZ CHILCOTT S CLIFTON GUIDE. side : and to accommodate passengers in every state of the tide, piers are erected. The passage is two miles wide at high water. King Edward III. presented Wickliffe with the prebend of Aust, in the collegiate church at West- bury -upon-Trym. John Purney, one of the most active of the Lollard preachers, was his curate or assistant, and often preached in Bristol. PORTSHEAD, Ok the head of the port, vulgo Possut, is pleasantly situated on the south side of a high ridge of hills, finely wooded, which rise immediately from the skirts of the Channel, and defend it from the strong westerly winds. The shore is very rocky, and in some places rises to sixty feet in perpendicular height. These rocks are composed of a kind of grit stone ; in which is some gypsum ; and on them grow vast quantities of kelp-weed. Flat fish and shrimps are caught on the beach. In the last century a fort was erected here, which commanded this part of the Channel ; but it has since been demolished, and the foundation of the walls alone on which the fort stood remains. A very handsome Hotel, together with Marine Baths and Reading Rooms, as well as numerous houses, have been erected in this much frequented and very agreeable watering place. REDLAND. The church is a good building, with a lofty and beautiful tower. The living is a rectory, in the deanery of RedclifF and Bedminster, and is in the gift of James Adam Gordon, Esq., who has here very valuable estates. A spring, called Welly Spring, rises on Welly Hill, about a mile from the church, and running in a small brook through the village, falls thence into the main channel of the water mill. Portbury Pier and Railroad. — It is in con- templation to make a railroad from the Exeter line at Bedminster to Portshead, and to have a pier at the latter place in connexion with it, for the transmission of goods and passengers from vessels arriving at Portshead and Bristol at all states of the tide. A stationary engine will be placed on the Leigh side of the Clifton suspension bridge, for the purpose of drawing up the carriages on an inclined plane. It is also contemplated to finish the suspension bridge, and thus to connect Clifton with the advantages of a railroad to Portshead. REDLAND Is one mile and a half from Bristol, and contains many noble houses. The chapel is small and neat; it was built and endowed for the convenience of 384 chilcott's clifton guide. the inhabitants, in 1743, by Mr. Cossins, 16 whose bust is on one side of the entrance, and his wife's on the other, executed in marble by Hysbrack. The altar-piece is half an octagon, wainscoted into compartments, highly finished, with carvings of trophies and festoons, and ornamented with an excellent painting of the embalming of Christ, by Vanderbrank. The cupola or dome contains one bell, which has the following inscription : — " John Cossins, Esq., sole benefactor to this chappel and bell. — W. E. 1742." Divine service is performed here twice every Sunday. Redland Court House was originally erected, and the grounds laid out, between the years 1730 and 40, at the expense of Mr. Cossins, a retired merchant of London. This property afterwards passed from him to Mr. Innes, from whom it was inherited by the family of Baker. On Mr. Baker's decease, it was sold to Mr. Seymour, from whom it was purchased by the late Sir Richard Vaughan. It is now occupied by Mr. Edwards, Banker. lt) He appears, by the following inscription on a monumental tablet in the vestry room, to have been buried within the chapel which he founded : — " In the vault under the communion table are deposited the remains of John Cossins, of Redland Court, Esq., founder of this chapel, who died April 19, mdcclix. aged 77 years. 385 SHIREHAMPTON. The retired village of Shirehampton is below the hill of King's Weston, sheltered from the north-east and east winds, which renders it a desirable winter situation. It is composed of some elegant villas ; and its cottages, which have a pretty neatness and quietude, are mostly surrounded with good gardens and orchards. Being but a pleasant walk over Durdham Down and through some fields from Bristol, combined with the beauty of its scenery, renders it much frequented in the summer. Its church is simple and unpretending ; and recently erected in the churchyard is a monument to the celebrated Captain Shaw, known in the locality as "the bold privateer." STANTON DREW, In Somersetshire, is about seven miles south of Bristol. " Its name," says Mr. Seyer, " sufficiently shews that it was the Stone Town of the Druids. It contains three circles of stones, (besides some other stones contiguous to them) which are com- monly called the wedding ; a name originating, no doubt, in a silly story that the whole company at a wedding were suddenly turned into stones." " Here stood the bride and bridegroom, here the fiddler, here a set of dancers," &c. 2 c 386 chilcott's clifton guide. " The largest and smallest circles are both situ- ated in a field called Stone Close. The great circle is three hundred and forty-two feet in diameter, within which are only five stones now actually standing in their places ; consequently their first appearance is not particularly imposing : from the very irregular distance of the remainder, it is im- possible to say how many they originally were in number. " Eastward from the great circle is the circle of eight, the circumference of which is about one hun- dred and fifty feet distant from that of the other. The diameter is about ninety-six feet : it consists of eight very large stones, four of them erect, and the others high above the ground. The workmanship of them is far superior to that of the other circles; — their appearance is therefore very striking. " Next is the south-west circle, called by Dr. Stukeley the Lunar Temple, the centre of which is distant from the centre of the great circle seven hundred and fourteen feet. The diameter is about one hundred and forty feet. It is situate partly in a field, and partly in an orchard, and consists of eleven or twelve stones. "North-west from the last circle, about one hundred yards distant, is a Cove, ten feet wide and eight feet deep, formed of three large flat stones, eighteen inches thick. North or north-west from this cove are two large stones, lying flat in a STAPLETON. 387 field called Lower Tyning ; and lastly, north-east from the great circle, beyond the brook adjoining the road, is a very large stone, called HackelVs Quoit." — Seyer^s Bristol, 8fc. We have been more particular in describing these relics of antiquity, (which form a sort of miniature Stonehenge) from the attention paid to them by visitors. We believe, however, that an- tiquarian research has been unable to determine when or by whom these and other druidical re- mains were first formed. Though some of these stones are of the quality called the red sand-stone, and others of breccia, yet the greater part of them are magnesian limestone, which perhaps may account for the depredations made upon them for mending the roads. STAPLETON Is a very neat and clean village, two miles north from Bristol, containing a Palace for the Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, and in its immediate neigh- bourhood are the residences of many highly re- spectable inhabitants. The church is small, with a low tower at the west end, adorned with pin- nacles, it is situated in the centre of the village, and has a pleasing and purely English effect. There are several inscriptions in the chancel to the memory of the Walter family. 388 chilcott's clifton guide. The river Froom runs through this parish, re- markable for its rich variety of wooded banks, quaintly fringed with watery foliage, and its surface tinged with reflected verdure, affording some of the most beautiful and sequestered bits of home scenery it is possible to conceive. At irregular intervals the rough machinery of an old mill, and rustic bridges, and lowly homesteads, will break upon the eye — scenes farthest removed from the noise and strife of city life. The artist and the hunter of the picturesque often avail themselves of the tranquil beauties nature has scattered so profusely on this part of the banks of the Froom ; and the woods, known as the " Duchess's," are also favourite walks ; the view from the summit of the hill is commanding and extensive. Stoke House, to which they belong, is near this village: it was once the residence of a former Dowager Duchess of Beaufort, and we believe still the property of the present Duke. STOKE BISHOP. About two miles distant, on the road to King's "Weston, is Stoke House, — a fine old mansion. This part of the road was originally a Roman pathway. As the labourers here were removing the soil to dig for stones, they found some very SWANSEA. 389 large grinders, or jaw teeth, weighing several pounds each ; also some large bones, supposed to be the remains of an elephant. Near Stoke House may be seen four druidical stones, in a field close by the road side. The largest is ten feet and a half in length, by five feet and a half in width, and two feet and a half in thickness. It has the appearance of an altar-stone, from its reclining posture : but it has subsequently been thrown down on one of the smaller ones, which is the cause of its not lying flat. STOWEY, In Somersetshire, about nine miles south of Bristol, is remarkable for a petrifying spring that rises in the parish. SWANSEA Is situated on the southern coast of Wales, in Glamorganshire, and is much frequented for sea- bathing. Steam vessels from Bristol arrive daily, and return to that city as often from thence. It is a pleasant watering place, standing in the centre of a beautiful bay, on an angle between two hills, which shelter it from the cold winds, and allow it an opening to the south. Being built on a semi- circular rising bank, near the mouth of the river 390 chilcott's clifton guide. Tawe, the town has a handsome appearance from the road approaching it: a fine bird's-eye view may be obtained from Kilvey Hill, whence the whole town is brought into a distinct and beautiful perspective, forming an irregular oblong, nearly a mile and a half in length, charmingly intersected by the meanders of the river, and varied with the shipping and small craft that frequent the harbour. Swansea is two hundred and five miles from London. Its population was, by the last census, 16,787. It has a considerable trade with Cuba, &c, for copper ore, as also some trade to the Baltic; and exports annually more than 100,000 chaldrons of coals. There are very extensive copper works and potteries in the immediate neighbourhood. TENBY, Pembrokeshire. As a summer resort Tenby has long been deser- vedly celebrated, and its facility of access by means of the steam packets which ply regularly between it and Bristol, renders it more immediately visited from this city and neighbourhood. United to peculiar advantages as a bathing place, it possesses great attractions for the lover of the romantic and picturesque, in the wild grandeur of its coast scenery. The antiquary also will find abundant materials for investigation in the ruins of its TENBY. 391 numerous and extensive fortifications, and in the surrounding desolated mansions, chapels, and castles, the legible characters which mark the past importance of the locality, and its decline from the state of prosperity in which it flourished during the mediavel ages. The origin of Tenby is involved, like many other of the Welsh towns, in great obscurity, but it is supposed to be one of the most ancient places in the Principality. It is noticed as a place of some military consequence in the reign of Elizabeth, but its importance ceased with the civil wars, and its commercial prosperity, with that of the county, suffered from this period a rapid declension. For many years afterwards Tenby continued poor and insignificant, principally dependant upon its fisheries, from the profits of which the pier and part of the town are said to be built. The fisheries, once a source of great emolument, have since become inconsiderable and passed into the hands of strangers, traditionally attributed as a punish- ment for some crime committed by the inhabitants ; however that may be, it is certain that the quantity of fish caught near the coast was immense, and hence the name Tenby-y-Piscoid. Tenby thus remained in comparative obscurity till about fifty years since, when its obvious advantages as a bath- ing place, the peculiar transparency of its waters, and its salubrious and romantic site, attracted 392 chilcott's clifton guide. the attention of families of rank and respectability, to whom it is now become a place of favourite resort. It is seated on the western edge of the fine bay of Caermarthen, with a harbour capable of sheltering vessels of three hundred tons burthen. It is at once remarkable for the picturesque charms of its situation, the romantic wildness of its rocks, and the excellent condition of its extensive sands. The pretty isle of St. Catherine, which may be approached at low water, and the various prospects to be seen from the promontory, which extends nearly half a mile into the sea, contribute to render this a favourite spot to every admirer of the sublimities of nature. Near this is Caldy island, on which a lighthouse is erected. Parties visiting this island are allowed to ramble over its length and breadth by the worthy and obliging resident proprietor. Tenby church, one of the largest and finest in Wales, is situated about the centre of the town, and from its great elevation, with its stately tower and tall tapering spire, is a land mark to the far off mariner. Its primeval foundation must have been of great antiquity, if we may judge from a few scattered vestiges, but the alterations, renova- tions, and additions of successive generations, have left but little of the original character of its archi- tecture. THORNBURY. 393 Tenby is greatly indebted to Sir W. Paxton, for the erection of hot and cold sea-water baths ; also to his exertions in procuring for the town a great supply of pure fresh water. The rides and walks in the vicinity are numerous and beautiful. Among other monuments is one to Wm. Eison, with the following inscription : — Two hundred Pounds, The use of one on cloth And 50 more, And coles bestowe He gave this towne For twelve decrepid mean To help the poore. And lowe. Let 50 pounds to five Be yearly lent ; The other's use on Burges 3 Sonnes be spent. THOENBUEY ' Is a market town in Gloucestershire, eleven miles north-east from Bristol. The origin of this place must be very remote, since it was the gift of William I. to the famous Fitzhaymon. The church is spacious, and built in the form of a cathedral, with a high and beautiful tower. Here is a free-school, and four almshouses ; but what chiefly claims attention in Thornbury is its Castle, which was begun by Edward, duke of 394 chilcott's clifton guide. Buckingham. This nobleman, however, did not live to complete it, nor the canal he had projected to communicate with the Severn ; being attainted and put to death in the thirteenth year of Henry VIII. The beautiful arched gateway, which is the principal entrance into the castle, remains entire, and is greatly admired for the excellency of its workmanship. There is a remarkably repeating echo in the courtyard of this castle. The well-known anecdote of Buckingham's throwing the water from the king's ewer into Cardinal Wolsey's shoes comes in point here — that trifling circumstance is said to have been the origin of his misfortunes. WESTBURY-UPON-TRYM Is four miles from Bristol; has a very fine old church, containing three aisles, cathedral-fashioned. Here Canynges' deanery once stood; it is said that parts of that building are now in existence, incor- porated with modern work, forming a gentleman's seat near the church. The Methodists have a chapel here; and a Baptist chapel has also been recently erected. The houses in this village are very neat. WESTON-SUPER-MARE Is situated on the banks of the Bristol Channel ; its distance from Bristol is about seventeen miles WESTON-SUPER-MAKB. 395 by rail-road ; from Bridgwater and Wells, twenty miles ; and from Bath about thirty. An act of parliament has been obtained for erecting a pier of solid masonry , commencing from the junction of Knightstone road, to the isle of Bearnbeck, and extending into the channel at dead low water; the whole being little short of a mile in length, and of the width of thirty feet throughout. It was formerly an unimportant village, chiefly occupied by fishermen; but the purity of its air, its retired situation, its smooth and extensive sand beach, its contiguity to Bath and Bristol, have com- bined to raise it to the rank of a fashionable water- ing place, as well as a quiet retreat to the invalid. It is situated in a valley, sheltered by hills, except on the west, where it is open to the sea. On a summer evening, when the tide is in, nothing can surpass the beauty of the surrounding scenery; the numerous groups walking on the sandy beach, which is upwards of two miles in length ; the ample sweep of its capacious bay; the distant coast of Wales, with a view of the vessels "warping on their way" to and from Bristol; the Steep and Flat Holmes appearing, as it were, to float upon the surface of the water ; and the reflecting rays of the declining sun on the ever-restless waves, — produce those cheering feelings which experience only can appreciate. 396 chilcott's clifton guide. WICK, or ABSTON and WICK, Is in Gloucestershire, about seven miles and a half from Bristol; and is resorted to on account of the resemblance it bears to the Hotwells, though on a smaller scale. Precipitous rocks arrange themselves on each side of the little 'river Boyd, in a very romantic manner. Many varieties of spars, fossils, &c, are peculiar to this spot. WRINGTON, Somerset, Is about ten miles from Bristol. Zinc (commonly called spelter) is found in great quantities in this neighbourhood. The celebrated John Locke was born in this village ,- and near it is Barley Wood, some time the residence of the late venerated Mrs. Hannah More, who was buried in the church, and to whose memory a handsome monument has been erected. A new church has been built at Redhill, in this parish, and was opened and consecrated for divine worship on the last day of January, 1844. J. Chilcott, Printer, Bristol. "»*>»» %^ V ,. ^ <■ " , % c 6, "<: ^ <3ft '*W -* ^ < ^o, ^ a0 v v * ° '■ ^b V * * * ° /• ^ \> ■ ^ 4 4 :\ 9? * v N : /!-.;% /, % ' ^'^^\/ \4? \ c3 ^ V ^ lK ^ ^ - ^ " ^c£ s> %. -. ; ;,\ <*• -/»v w A«*'» \.,< .r\v „ * * o ,. v> *- 0' $ 6>\ $9* •< * « / ■ -^s v «. < * ° * *fe ^o^ «*<^ \\^ * ^ - ^ ^ ^ I BffiHOffl ■ ■ ■ ■