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HOW TO 
 
 BREAK, EDUCATE AND HANDLE 
 THE HORSE 
 
 FOR THE USES OF EVERY DAY LIFE. 
 
 Complete instructions for breaking and educating colts, 
 teaching horses to drive, and for use under the saddle, 
 together with many instructions which have never before 
 been published, and which are the result of the author's 
 experience covering a period of twenty years. 
 
 PROF. WM. MULLEN. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 Published by the Author. 
 
 PRICK $1.00. 
 
THE LIBRARY OF 
 CONGRESS, 
 
 Two Copies Received 
 
 MAY. 8 1901 
 
 Copyright entry 
 
 Guy. Zm. '9+' 
 
 CLASS Ct XXo. No. 
 C«PY 8. 
 
 SF1 
 
 Copyrighted 1901 by William Mullen 
 
Professor William Mullen 
 
AUTHOR'S ANNOUNCEMENT. 
 
 In preparing the subject-matter for this modest 
 volume, the author has not proceeded upon 
 theory, but has attempted to present in the lan- 
 guage of the common, though educated people, 
 practical methods for handling horses. He has 
 no secret means for breaking colts, and educating 
 them, but bases his work on the dictates of com- 
 mon sense. 
 
 Any man, woman, boy or girl, endowed by 
 nature with a love for the horse, can learn to 
 handle him, either to drive or ride. Almost 
 every child can be educated, by contact with 
 horses, to make them do his bidding. Every 
 man in civilization has more or less love for the 
 horse. If to this love is added a practical educa- 
 tion in handling the horse then every person can 
 be made a thorough horseman. To accomplish 
 that object is the aim of the author. 
 
 He has tried to make his meaning plain in 
 every instance, but especially desires to say to 
 his readers that while they must not conquer 
 through fear, no horse can be successfully man- 
 aged unless the person who handles him is mas- 
 ter at all times. Remember this, but do not 
 forget that even with a horse, kind treatment 
 turns away wrath. 
 

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 
 
 This I find the most successful method in 
 breaking Mustangs, the mountain horse of Ne- 
 vada, or the wild horses that come from Texas 
 or other western states that are of a sulky dis- 
 position. Some of these horses are very hard to 
 break by "head and tail" or other methods used, 
 but this I have found most successful, never 
 having failed where it has been used. 
 
 After having well halter broke the Mustang, 
 tie his head to his tail and when he stops turn- 
 ing, which will be in a very few minutes, get the 
 saddle on him, standing on the same side that 
 his head is tied to, keeping hold of the halter in 
 the hand next to the head and dropping the 
 saddle over the back with the other. This sad- 
 dle should have a cinch and no buckles, having 
 a long strap to tie it up with, with an iron 
 thimble on each side and a ring in the center of 
 the girth. Now reach under and catch the cinch 
 with the right hand, at the same time holding 
 the cinch strap. When you have got the cinch 
 you may then let go of his head with the other 
 hand and fasten the saddle on. Although a 
 cinch takes a little longer to put on, yet it is 
 much more handy and safe, never breaking, even 
 —3— 
 
4 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 
 
 if the horse should start to turn before you get 
 it fast; one turn will hold the saddle together. 
 You may let the horse go if you wish, that is, 
 let it turn and not try to cinch up any more 
 until the animal stops, then cinch the saddle up 
 well, but not too tight. Take your strap hob- 
 bles and put on the front pasterns. This is done 
 by tying a piece of light rope in the thimble 
 which is in one end of the hobble and throwing 
 it through the two front legs (that is, if he is 
 wild and will not allow the front legs touched), 
 picking it up and putting the rope through the 
 other end, which will bring the hobble on the 
 leg. Slip it down to the proper place just above 
 the hoof, then, put the other one on in the same 
 way, fastening a rope in the thimble on the sad- 
 dle with two half hitches or an eye may be 
 spliced in the rope and put through so that it 
 cannot come loose unless taken out. Put it 
 down through the thimble on the hobble on the 
 same side, then up and through the ring in the 
 center of the girth down to the thimble in the 
 other hobble, and up to the thimble on the op- 
 posite side of the saddle, having the end running 
 back. 
 
 Now, if you have a closed corral you need no 
 helper, but, if not, you will require a helper who 
 will lead the horse on a long rope just where 
 you want him; but if the ground is not very soft, 
 before beginning to throw him, put on a pair of 
 
HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 5 
 
 knee pads or boots. If he is too wild take him 
 on some straw and drop him a few times until 
 he will allow you to put the boots on. These 
 boots should be made out of something thick 
 and soft and may be covered with leather with 
 straps, which should be put on very tightly, to 
 fasten above the knee, and straps below the 
 knee which should be left loose so as not to in- 
 terfere with his action. When you drop him, do 
 not hold him on his knees but allow him to 
 spring right up on his feet. If he is inclined to 
 sulk and you hold him on his knees he will He 
 down and you can do nothing with him until 
 the sulk is over; but he may be dropped on his 
 knees and he will continue to fight on finding 
 himself loose enough to spring to his feet. Every 
 time you drop him on his knees say "whoa." 
 This will teach him that this word means to 
 stop. When he stops fighting, you may try him 
 by taking a pole and touching him all over. If 
 he endeavors to get away from it, drop him on 
 his knees. If your horse is high-strung, spirited 
 or nervous when you drop him on his knees, 
 hold him there, but his knees must be well 
 padded for he is likely to raise himself ten or 
 twelve times before he stops. Then draw his 
 head back to one side and hold him until he will 
 lie down, but, if fighting too hard, let him up 
 again, and repeat, but do not allow him to go 
 too far. If possible, keep him in the same spot. 
 
6 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 
 
 This will give you better success than letting 
 him jump far. If he lies down, pull his head 
 back to the saddle and throw him on his side. 
 If he tries to rise, draw his head back again; 
 this will throw him over on his side. Repeat 
 this until he will not try to raise his head from 
 the ground, then rub his head, neck and other 
 parts of his body with the hand, touching the 
 hind feet and legs, drawing them up and plac- 
 ing them back, always standing at his back, and 
 if he tries to get up, draw his head back. He 
 has learned to give up to you and at the least 
 pull on the halter, will get discouraged and lie 
 still. Then, take a blanket and touch him all 
 over with that, drawing it through his legs, 
 spreading it over him, laying it on his head and 
 neck. When he will lie still and allow this to 
 be done, then let him up and try him with the 
 blanket, but only on the side where it has 
 touched him. If he is afraid of it, lay him down 
 again by dropping him on his knees and draw- 
 ing his head on the same side as before; he will 
 lie down in the same position. Repeat with the 
 blanket again and when he shows no sign of fear, 
 let him up and try him again. If he will not 
 stand, repeat, only by dropping him on his 
 knees. Repeat this until he will allow the blan- 
 ket to touch any part of that side of him. Now 
 drop him on his knees and draw his head to the 
 other side. By pressing against his shoulder, he 
 
HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 7 
 
 will go down on the opposite side. Repeat as 
 before by rubbing, handling his feet and legs and 
 using the blanket, letting him up and putting 
 him to test, and if quiet lay him down again. 
 Now, sit on him and pat him all over. If you 
 wish to get him accustomed to noise, you may 
 use any instrument you wish, beginning as softly 
 as you can and gradually increasing until the 
 noise is as loud as you desire, such as shrieks, 
 whistles, drums, tin pans, fire crackers or a gun. 
 Then let him up, jump on his back and rub him. 
 Now he may be taught to turn and pull in the 
 cart as in the former methods, but you can go 
 further with him in the first lesson than with 
 the horse that will sulk; also his mouth must be 
 attended to, that is, the wolf teeth and sharp 
 edges taken off and gums well syringed out 
 every day with alum lotion; using the same bit 
 and harness as in the first method when he has 
 become cheerful, but he must be driven like- 
 wise in any place that he will be in the habit of 
 going. A blind bridle may be used after the 
 fourth or fifth day. These blinds must be large 
 so as not to interfere with the eye, well open in 
 front so as to give him full view of everything 
 in front of him and to see objects passing by on 
 either side, but, with a careful driver, I would 
 recommend an open bridle to be used for one 
 month, when either bridle could be used with 
 safety at any time that a change may be made. 
 
8 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 
 
 After teaching him to turn and pull and he 
 has become cheerful, you may put a check on, 
 but only an elastic check should be used, as 
 this class of horse fights checks very much and 
 learn the habit of throwing themselves down or 
 rearing up and falling over, so do not be in a 
 hurry to check them. See that the mouth is 
 not sore when the check is put on for the first 
 time. 
 
 Being very hardy and tough range-bred 
 horses may be put right to work after they have 
 been taught to pull and turn. They will not shy 
 at anything, such as street cars, electric cars or 
 steam engines; in fact, anything which would 
 cause other horses to be very much frightened 
 they will take no notice of if taken on the 
 streets the second or third day and put to work, 
 but you must be careful not to get them sore, 
 as they will become ugly and cause you more 
 trouble. I usually break these in five days. The 
 first day to halter. The second day teaching 
 them to pull and turn and sometimes hitch 
 them while in the cart to a post. The third 
 day driving them on the street, hitching them 
 to posts so as to teach them to stand while 
 hitched, and rehearsing them in turning. The 
 fourth day, hitching them to a four-wheeled 
 wagon, generally a retail butcher's, milk or gro- 
 cery wagon. The fifth day instructing the 
 driver how to handle them, showing him that 
 
HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 9 
 
 the horse is gentle and not to be afraid of giv- 
 ing him instructions in how to pick up the feet 
 or put on the harness, or how to handle the 
 reins while driving, as a great many drivers soon 
 break the tender mouth, and it becoming sore, 
 makes the colt ugly, so it is necessary to drive 
 him with a light hand and a loose rein. 
 
 Now he may be taught to back with a cord 
 on his nose, beginning this on the third day, 
 finishing with the last lesson on the fifth day, 
 each day after he has come from his drive. After 
 this, he is well broken for street work, and if 
 handled kindly will be as gentle as a native 
 horse; in fact will have no habits such as shy- 
 ing, etc., that the native horse has. 
 
 A horse broken by either of these methods 
 can be driven double without any trouble. You 
 may hitch him up on the lead of the team or on 
 the pole and he will pull, turn, back or stop 
 when called to. A heavy draft horse is better 
 worked by the head and tail, but, if you do wish 
 to work him, you will not have to drop him 
 very many times until he will stand and allow 
 you to do anything you wish with him, and after 
 teaching him to turn and pull the first time, he 
 may be taken right out on the road and given 
 half an hour or more of slow work, not asking 
 him to leave a walk. In repeating his lesson the 
 second day, he may be worked for two or three 
 
10 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 
 
 hours, and after his wolf teeth and edges of his 
 grinders have been attended to he may be al- 
 lowed to rest. 
 
 If you wash his shoulders with lotions to 
 harden them, you may put him right to work 
 either single or double in a wagon, plow or any 
 place you wish. A horse that has to do hard 
 work, ought to be allowed to carry his head 
 naturally, but if a check is put upon him he can- 
 not do it and work as well. 
 
TO TEACH A HORSE TO PARK. 
 
 This is a very tractable gait for a lady's saddle 
 horse. Not very common as yet, but easily 
 taught. A horse may be taught to park in two 
 weeks by any lady who is a real horsewoman. 
 
 Tap one of the legs below the knee with the 
 butt end of the whip, and when he raises his foot 
 pet him for it, each time taking hold of the foot 
 and holding it up. First make him lift one foot 
 and then the other. If you wish him to learn 
 this quickly, give him a piece of sugar. After 
 he has learned to raise his foot at the tap, take 
 hold of it in front of him so that he will be com- 
 pelled to extend his arm. By petting and en- 
 couraging him, he will soon learn that you want 
 him to extend his foot. Then take one leg from 
 him and then the other. The next lesson will 
 be in stepping forward. After tapping on his 
 leg, hold it in your hand and pull on the halter 
 strap so as to force him one step ahead. When 
 he steps, put the foot down and pet him. Then 
 pick up the other foot, make him step one step 
 ahead, pet him again, and give him enough 
 practice so he will do this easily. In the next 
 lesson, give him two steps in succession, first 
 one foot and then the other, and so increase 
 
 n 
 
12 TO TEACH A HORSE TO PARK. 
 
 until he will take nine or ten steps with your 
 aid. He will soon learn to do this himself by 
 just holding your hand in the act of receiving 
 the foot, but not taking it. This you must 
 make him do slowly, and hold his foot up as 
 long as you hold your hand down in the act of 
 receiving it, so that you may direct the time. 
 Then compel him to raise his foot from the 
 shoulder. This will give him a high step. After 
 having had sufficient practice at this, he will do 
 it readily from the act of holding a whip in 
 front of him while walking by his side. You 
 may get on his back and tap him on the leg that 
 you want him to raise, and when he raises it, it 
 matters not how slowly, pet him for it. Then 
 drop the whip on the other side, tapping him on 
 the other leg and continue until you can get 
 him to raise his leg as high from the saddle as 
 when you are on the ground; then you may 
 urge him to take a step while the leg is up, and 
 then another, and another. When he has done 
 this, the work is complete and practice will 
 make him perfect. 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP 
 
 Using a double-rein bridle, stand on the leit 
 side of the horse, facing the same way as he. 
 Reach under his head and take hold of the 
 snaffle-rein ring on the right side, and grasp the 
 curb rein with the left hand. Now pull apart, the 
 right hand in front, and the left hand back, and 
 as soon as he turns his head to the left, let go 
 of him and pet him. Then go on the right side, 
 turning the head to the right, in the same man- 
 ner. Each time you make him turn his head 
 make him take it further to each side until he 
 will turn it right back to his shoulder on either 
 side without moving his body. This should be 
 practiced until a slight pull on either snaffle- 
 rein will turn his head in opposite direction. 
 Now, stand on one side, with the snaffle-rein 
 over the neck on the opposite side. If standing 
 on the left side, hold the snaffle-rein in the right 
 hand and curb rein in the left hand. Speak to 
 him in order that he will step up, and as he steps 
 up pull lightly on the curb rein. This will teach 
 him to carry his head on one side while walking. 
 Allow him gradually to go to the right; this 
 will teach him to place the left foot always over 
 the right when stepping towards the right side. 
 13 
 
14 HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP. 
 
 When he has taken a few steps in this position, 
 stop him and pet him, giving him all the en- 
 couragement you possibly can. Now, go on 
 the right side, taking the left snaffle-rein over 
 the neck on the right side and hold the right 
 curb rein in the right hand. Urge him ahead 
 and draw the head slightly to the right by a 
 downward pull on the right curb rein. You 
 may press up against his shoulder so that when 
 he steps ahead he will step a little toward the 
 left at the same time. Repeat this several times, 
 caressing him each time he does as you wish. 
 When he has gotten so he will carry his head 
 on either side while walking in front, you may 
 tap him on the hind part of either side. If 
 standing on the right side and urging him to 
 the left, reach behind you with your whip and 
 tap him on the right quarter. When he steps 
 over, pet him for it. Then go on the other side 
 and when he steps that way, pet him again. 
 Now you may stand in front, facing him, hold- 
 ing down on the left curb rein. Chirp to him 
 in order to lead him to your left and reaching 
 back with your whip, tap him on the left quarter 
 as in the act of stepping, he will step sideways 
 instead of in front. After each lesson always 
 encourage him. Repeat this on the other side 
 until he will go in a straight line, or form two 
 imaginary lines while going in either direction. 
 You may now get in the saddle, allow him to 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP. 1 5 
 
 start ahead straight, and after taking one step, 
 if you want him to step to the right, bring a 
 light pull on the left curb rein so as to bring 
 his head lightly toward the left, at the same 
 time urging him ahead. Then, reach back with 
 your whip on the left side and tap him on the 
 left quarter, and when he steps to the right, ease 
 on your rein, pet him and encourage him for 
 this. Repeat this on the other side. You will 
 find with a few lessons he will become quite 
 well trained and go as easily and freely to either 
 side when caited upon. 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO TURN ON 
 EITHER FRONT OR HIND FEET. 
 
 After he has been trained to carry his head 
 on either side, as in the foregoing chapter, 
 "Teaching a horse to side-step," he may be 
 taught to turn on either front or hind feet. To 
 teach a horse to stand on almost the same spot 
 with his front feet, stand right at his head, 
 holding the left snaffle curb rein, reach back 
 with your whip and tap him on left quarter. 
 When he takes one step to the left with his hind 
 legs, stop and pet him. Now go to the right 
 side, take hold of right curb rein and touch him 
 with the whip on the right quarter until he will 
 take one step. After petting him for this, go 
 back to the left rein and repeat this lesson until 
 the horse will step either side and make a com- 
 plete circle with his hind legs. Then you may 
 get in the saddle and repeat this until he will 
 remain in about the same spot with his front 
 feet and draw an imaginary circle with his hind 
 feet, either side. 
 
 Now, press against his right quarter and urge 
 him a little ahead, laying the reins over his neck 
 as in the act of turning under saddle gaits, en- 
 couraging him each time he steps over with his 
 16 
 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO TURN. I J 
 
 front feet; repeat this step by step first on one 
 side and then the other until you can make a 
 complete circle with his front feet and hold him 
 on the spot by pressing with your crop or whip 
 on his quarter. If you wish to make a very 
 short turn, or a quick one, draw the reins over 
 the neck on the right side, give a tap with the 
 whip or crop on the left side. This will give 
 him a short turn to the left. Repeat this on the 
 other side and it will turn him to the right. 
 

 HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN. 
 
 Strap up the left front foot, take a piece of 
 soft rope about seven feet long, take the center 
 of it and wrap three times around the bony part 
 of the tail very near the end. Separate the hair 
 in three parts, allowing each end of the rope to 
 go with a bunch of hair and braid the hair up 
 in a three-strand plait. Make a half-hitch on 
 the end of the tail with each end of the rope; 
 this will keep the tail from unbraiding. Then 
 braid the tail up, forming a loop, and tie on the 
 bony part of the tail with the ends of the rope. 
 After tying, do not leave the ends long enough 
 to interfere when you are working with him. 
 Now, tie a ring in the loop of the tail with a 
 piece of rope, attach a long soft cord to the 
 halter and take it on the right side, put it 
 through the ring, fasten to the tail and back- 
 to the ring in the halter. Take hold of the rope 
 with both hands, standing between the head and 
 tail on the right side, making the horse turn 
 with you, and after he has turned several times 
 you may pull on the rope so as to bring his head 
 and tail together. Now overcome his balance 
 with a little jerk and he will go over on the left 
 side. This may be repeated until he will go 
 
 18 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN. IO, 
 
 down from the mere pulling of his head back 
 when his leg is tied up. You may repeat this 
 with either leg being tied up but, when the right 
 leg is tied up, the rope must be brought on the 
 left side. You must be careful and turn him 
 enough so that he will not struggle too much 
 when you go to throw him over. If a very 
 stubborn case, he may be turned very rapidly 
 before tying his leg up, and then turned a little 
 more just before throwing him. With this les- 
 son in four days time a horse can be taught to 
 lie down by the mere tapping on his leg, if he 
 is bright and intelligent. 
 
 * 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE 
 DOWN WITH THE HOBBLES. 
 
 Use a harness saddle, the kind I have de- 
 scribed in " Training colts to harness with hob- 
 bles." After putting the saddle on with the 
 hobbles on the front pasterns, hold the rope in 
 one hand, standing at his side, and tap him on 
 his shin so that he will raise his feet. By pull- 
 ing on the rope it will bring his two feet under 
 him. His knees must be well padded, for the 
 first time he comes down on them if not pro- 
 tected, they will surely be broken. When he is 
 on his knees tie your rope to itself in the saddle 
 and if wishing to make him lie down on the 
 right side, stand at the left side at his shoulder 
 and draw his head back, at the same time press- 
 ing over on the shoulder. This will compel him 
 to go down on the right side, and if you wish 
 him to go down on the left side, you will stand 
 on the right side by his shoulder and pull his 
 head to that side, pressing on his shoulder. Re- 
 peat this until a slight pull on the rope of the 
 hobbles will make him go down. This will teach 
 a horse to lie down by a tap of the whip very 
 quickly, but they will plunge or lunge more, and 
 are more likely to hurt themselves than in the 
 former method of teaching them. 
 20 
 

 
HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE WITH 
 ONE STRAP FAST. 
 
 Girth a circingle around the horse, with a 
 strap coming up from the front feet under the 
 circingle with the other leg tied up. Stand on 
 the side of the horse close to the shoulder on 
 the same side as the strap on the foot, and press 
 against the shoulder so as to compel him to 
 raise the foot in order to catch his balance, and 
 when he does this, take the foot from under 
 him with the strap, which will bring him to his 
 knees. By drawing the head around to the side 
 and pressing on his shoulder you will compel 
 him to lie down. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN 
 WITHOUT ANY RIGGING. 
 
 Tie up the left front foot, take him by the head 
 and tail on the right side and turn him until he 
 can hardly stand from dizziness. Then draw his 
 head back and press against his shoulder, he will 
 lie down. When he is falling press against his 
 hip so as to help him over. Repeat this a num- 
 ber of times and he will soon learn when you 
 press on his shoulder to go down on the knee of 
 the leg which is tied up, then draw the foot of 
 the other leg back, so as he will be on both 
 knees, when you will draw the head back and 
 press him down as in the former method. 
 21 
 
HOW TO HOLD A HORSE DOWN 
 
 AFTER YOU HAVE LAID HIM 
 
 DOWN. 
 
 To teach him this when you have a rope be- 
 tween his head and tail, you simply draw his 
 head right back to his shoulder and then he can- 
 not get up. When he has ceased to struggle, 
 let his head loose so as to be in its natural po- 
 sition when lying down, standing ready with the 
 rope in your hand, and at the least sign of a 
 struggle draw his head back quickly, and this 
 will throw him back again. He may cause you 
 to repeat this very rapidly the first time he has 
 been laid down, but if you do not allow him to 
 get up until you have thoroughly conquered 
 him, you will save a great deal of time in not 
 only teaching him to lie down, but in teaching 
 him to stay down. You may stand at his 
 shoulders behind and draw his head back with 
 the halter strap, and thus teach him to remain 
 lying down, if you are quick enough. 
 
 
 22 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO STAND 
 ON HIS HIND LEGS. 
 
 After you have been training a horse, he may 
 be taught to stand up by the tap of the whip. 
 A few taps of the whip high on the front legs 
 at the same time saying "Up" will confuse him, 
 and not knowing what you want he will become 
 impatient and give a little jump. Give him a 
 piece of sugar and calm and quiet him. Repeat 
 this, each time paying him for what he does. 
 In the next lesson, swing your whip more in the 
 air at the same time saying, "Up," and then as 
 in the act of hitting him on the front part, 
 causing him to jump again. When he has 
 jumped, or raised with his front legs, pet him 
 and reward him for it, each time getting him 
 higher and higher. It will require but a few 
 lessons when he will stand up straight for you. 
 Now, to hold him there, simply keep irritating 
 him with the whip. Do not try to keep him too 
 long, but every time after letting him down 
 give him a piece of sugar so that he will know 
 he will be paid whenever he obeys you. He will 
 soon try to please you, it matters not how 
 difficult the circumstances may be. A real stub- 
 born case will necessitate putting a piece of cord 
 23 
 
24 TEACH A HORSE TO STAND ON HIS HIND LEGS. 
 
 around his neck and through his mouth, making 
 a war bridle and jerking down on it. This will 
 cause him to rear for which you will pet him. 
 Do not give him too much in the first lesson, 
 because he may become sulky and your work 
 would be fruitless, but if he raises once or twice 
 without getting very angry, you have done well 
 and leave him alone for that day. 
 
 In his next lesson, you may start him with 
 your cord and if he raises readily, you may take 
 it from his mouth, put a bridle on him and at- 
 tach the cord to the rings of the bridle, using 
 this instead of the cord on the mouth. After a 
 few lessons they may be increased, and when he 
 will stand up straight from the cord, you may 
 begin to use both cord and whip together; then 
 take the cord out and practice him with the 
 whip alone. 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO STAND 
 ON A BOX. 
 
 Secure a strong box, about twelve inches 
 high, lead the horse up to it, raise one foot on 
 the box and then take hold of the other, urg- 
 ing him ahead with the bridle until he has both 
 feet on the box. Pet him and give him a piece 
 of apple or sugar. Allow him to remain stand- 
 ing on the box for some little time, and then re- 
 peat. When he will get on the box readily for 
 you with his front feet, allow him to step either 
 side as you wish, and when he has confidence in 
 himself so that he will move the hind feet with- 
 out the front ones, coax him ahead on the box 
 until he is about ready to step up with the 
 hind legs. Then pick up a hind leg and place it 
 on for him, coaxing him so that he will pick the 
 other one up. Hold him on the box, pet him 
 and give him something to eat. Repeat this 
 until he will readily get on the box with all four 
 feet. Then, make the box shorter and practice 
 him, and still shorter until he will get on a very 
 small box with his four feet. Then increase the 
 heighth until he will get up on a high box. 
 In this manner you can get him to stand on a 
 box with his four feet almost together. 
 25 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SAY "YES." 
 
 This trick is very amusing and an answer can 
 be obtained from a horse by simply pointing at 
 his breast with a cane or whip, or even the 
 finger. On speaking to the horse he will bow 
 his head as though answering "yes." For in- 
 stance, ask him some question as though talk- 
 ing to a human being, and from all appearances 
 bystanders will think he understands just what 
 you say. Take a pin and prick him on the 
 breast. At the slightest move of the head, pet 
 him, speak kindly to him and give him a piece 
 of sugar, and repeat. If you use any set sen- 
 tence while you are teaching him, he will bow 
 his head when he hears those particular sounds. 
 Repeat this until he will raise his head very high 
 and drop it, but as soon as he will bow his head 
 from a tap on his breast, you may cease using 
 the pin, but just simply tap him instead. 
 
 26 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SAY 'WO." 
 
 This trick, like the trick of saying "yes," will 
 cause a great deal of amusement to a company 
 gathered together, as you may draw from the 
 horse the answer "no" by simply pointing to 
 his shoulder. I once taught a Shetland pony 
 and a crowd gathered around him while in the 
 livery stable. The stable man standing there, I 
 asked the pony if he had had any oats that day. 
 The pony gave an extra heavy shake of the 
 head. The stableman spoke sharply to him and 
 unconsciously raised his hand, which was point- 
 ed to his shoulder, saying: "you lie." This made 
 the pony shake his head "no" again. Since then 
 the stableman thinks the pony understands a 
 great deal of what is said to him. 
 
 To teach this trick take a pin and prick the 
 horse on the leg, high up and well back, close to 
 the wethers, and on the least sign of a shake 
 of the head, pet him and give him a piece of 
 sugar and repeat. This trick can be taught in 
 fifteen minutes to any horse, so that the shake 
 will be recognized by any person. A horse that 
 is sensitive to the touch will shake his head as 
 soon as he is pricked, so that you may speak to 
 any horse and by concealing the pin you may 
 deceive a company or group that has gathered. 
 27 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO FOL- 
 LOW WITHOUT HALTER OR BRIDLE. 
 
 Put the horse in a large stall or ring about 
 twenty feet in diameter and take a lash whip, 
 Crack the whip so as to make him run around 
 you while you remain in the center of the ring. 
 After he has run sometime and you see he is 
 slacking in his speed stop him by holding the 
 whip out in front, at the same time saying 
 "Whoa." Then start him to run around the 
 other way by cracking the whip until you see 
 him slacken in his speed, then raise the whip 
 again in front of him, saying "Whoa." If he 
 stops and looks at you, walk up to him, pet him 
 and remain petting him until he becomes calmer, 
 for you may have given him a little fright in 
 cracking the whip. When he has become calm, 
 start him running around in the opposite direc- 
 tion, but not so long this time before stopping 
 him, and after petting him, start him around the 
 other way. If you do not wish to use sugar, 
 carrots, apples or anything that a horse will eat 
 may be given him, but, under no consideration 
 must a horse be hit with a whip while you are 
 teaching him. When he will start around for 
 you and stop readily when spoken to, you will 
 28 
 
HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO FOLLOW. 20, 
 
 then place the whip over his back, allowing the 
 lash to drop over his rump, step back a step 
 saying, "come here," and pulling lightly on your 
 whip. When he steps up to you, pet him. Re- 
 peating this he will soon learn to follow you any 
 place, and at the same time, you have taught 
 him to go away from you as well as to come 
 to you. In time he will distinguish the differ- 
 ence between the words "go away" and "come 
 here." A horse that is taught by this method 
 and rewarded every time he is called, may be 
 caught in the largest field or pasture that he 
 may be turned loose in. 
 
HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS. 
 
 The driving of colts from the field or range into 
 the corral or paddock, do with as little noise as 
 possible. Being customary on ranches to shout 
 and yell on the rodiers or drives, it may take a 
 little trouble to break the men from this, but in 
 order to have good results in catching a colt it 
 must be done. Allow no ropes to be swung or 
 whips to be cracked while the separating of colts 
 or horses is being done, but in the parting from 
 one paddock to another, do it quietly and slowly, 
 walking in between the horses, and separating 
 the ones desired. Always have a sufficient num- 
 ber of gentle horses, so you may hold them easily 
 in any part of the corral. Now have a small 
 paddock, and in one corner have a pen built 8 feet 
 high, about 14 feet square, or 10 x 14 at the small- 
 est; not larger than 14 x 20, but if so long, it is 
 better not to have it wider than 10 or 11 feet. 
 Roof it over, but it can be made to do without a 
 roof. I have found better results from one that 
 is roofed over. Separate two or three gentle 
 horses with the colt or colts you are desirous of 
 haltering. Ten colts may be haltered in one half 
 day. This is about as many as one good man 
 may attend to, even when having the proper 
 places to hitch. Now, drive the gentle horse and 
 
 30 
 
HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 31 
 
 one colt in the pen, which we will call the halter- 
 ing pen. Go immediately inside, and separate 
 all of the gentle horses but one, which you will 
 leave in the haltering pen with the colt. Close 
 the door, which will shut outthe view of anything 
 that would tend to draw the colt's attention. 
 Now, the colt will invariably go on the side of 
 the horse opposite from you, between the horse 
 and the wall. Being afraid of you, he will seek 
 protection, and thus use the gentle horse as a 
 shield. Now, you must guard against causing 
 him any fear, and thus work only on the outside 
 of the gentle horse. You must have a docile 
 horse that is not afraid of you, but one that you 
 can climb all over if necessary, and that will come 
 at your beck and call. One used for this several 
 times, and being petted and fed when he does 
 just what you want, will soon learn to help you. 
 When the colt is standing quietly with the horse, 
 you will go up to the horse, soothe and pet him. 
 Gradually let your hand reach the colt, all the 
 time stroking the neck of the horse. After hav- 
 ing touched the colt's neck, and he will allow you 
 to stroke and pet him, using the left hand for this, 
 you will use the right hand to reach the colt over 
 the neck of the horse. When he allows you to 
 stroke his neck or nose, you will then take your 
 halter, which you will have prepared with a snap 
 and ring, instead of a strap and buckle. 
 
 Take the halter in the left hand, reaching 
 under the horse's neck, and under the colt's neck. 
 
32 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 
 
 When standing on the left side of the horse at 
 his head, then reach over their necks with the 
 right hand, taking the strap of the halter with 
 snap to slip over the colt's nose, and snap into 
 the ring quickly. This must be done instantly, 
 and at the first trial; but if you should make a 
 failure at the first attempt, when the colt leaves 
 the horse, backing out from the side of him or 
 otherwise, wait one or two minutes; then bring 
 the colt back into position by the side of the 
 horse by quietly walking behind him, not using 
 anything that will excite him or cause him pain. 
 Even if the colt should leave five or six times, 
 bring him back quietly and gently. He will soon 
 not be afraid of your touch, and will allow you to 
 slip the halter on without becoming excited. 
 Now, having the halter on, go to his tail, keeping 
 on the side of the horse, so if the colt kicks, he 
 will not reach you. Keep the horse close up to 
 the wall which he is facing, that the colt may 
 not have any encouragement to leave his place. 
 Then touch his tail gently and gradually, stroke 
 and lift his tail up, separating it in three parts 
 for braiding, and take a piece of soft rope about 
 seven feet long, taking the centre, wrap three 
 times around the bone of the tail near the end, 
 and braid it into the tail; tying both ends on the 
 tail with the rope forming a loop. 
 
 Now take a soft rope, which we will call rig- 
 ging No. i. Carry the end over the horse's and 
 colt's neck, and fasten in the ring of the halter; 
 
HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 33 
 
 put the other end into a rope over the back, 
 which we will call No. 2; then the other end 
 of No. 2 into a rope around the rump, which we 
 will call No. 3. Take through the slack of No. 
 1, dropping the end that is not fast to the halter 
 in front of the colt, still holding up Nos. 2 and 3 
 from the back of the colt. Reach in front of the 
 colt with No. 1, then pick up the end of No. 1 
 and urge the colt over it. This brings No. 1 
 under the belly of the colt. Now lay the end of 
 No. 1 over the back of the horse, walk back and 
 put No. 3 through the loop in the colt's tail, put- 
 ting No. 2 through the eye of No. 3, and then 
 No. 1 through the eye of No. 2, and bring No. 1 
 to the ring of the halter. Unfasten the end of 
 No. 1 and bring the two ends of No. 1 from 
 opposite sides, putting the two ends through the 
 ring of the halter; then tie a soft rope over the 
 colt's withers to No. 1. Then take the colt out 
 of the box-stall or corral, in front of a high fence, 
 where he can be tied. No horses or other colts 
 should be left near him now. Do not tie him 
 to a hitching post or tree, nor in a small stall, 
 for if he throws himself he will get scared, but to 
 a high, smooth, strong fence, with a ring or 
 something to tie a rope to — about five feet from 
 the ground is the best. He may buck, jump, or 
 throw himself, but if he is in a good place, with 
 soft ground and a high fence in front of him, he 
 can not injure himself, nor yet get tangled in his 
 own rigging. 
 
34 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 
 
 This method is better than any other, saving 
 all cruelty and pain, being done quickly, safely 
 and with less irritation than by any other method. 
 Leave him tied until he is quiet and stands with 
 a loose halter rein, then unhitch him from the 
 place where he is tied, and give him a lesson in 
 following you. This he will learn quickly, if you 
 do not fight him, i. e., make him angry. By 
 standing in front of him and pulling on the rig- 
 ging gently he will take a step forward, when you 
 will approach him slowly, and pet him. Repeat 
 this until he will follow you readily around the 
 paddock. Now tie him up, feed and water him, 
 leaving the rigging on until the next day, when 
 you will give him another lesson in following. 
 You will find that he answers very quickly. Now 
 the rigging may be taken off, and a rope attached 
 to the halter will be sufficient, and if not ready 
 to bring him under complete subjection, you may 
 leave him until your own convenience. When 
 having to water him out of a bucket, approach 
 him with the water slowly and quietly, having 
 your bucket well filled, so he may drink readily 
 from the water without putting his nose too far 
 into the bucket, as this is something new and 
 strange, and he will probably be afraid, but 
 if he does not drink you may tie him up again 
 and .leave him a few hours, before offering him 
 any more, as very many horses on the range and 
 ranches running wild do not drink before 1 1 
 o'clock in the day, and some not more than 
 
HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 35 
 
 once a day. Do not do anything that will cause 
 him fear and teach him to kick or strike. By 
 halter breaking him in this way, it will prove 
 beneficial in his next lesson. For draft horses 
 or horses that are not likely to buck or kick much 
 the same methods as above may be used except 
 that instead of using rigging No. I, the training 
 may begin by using rigging No. 2. This rigging 
 goes from the ring of the halter around the body 
 to the ring in the halter on the other side, be- 
 ing one rope with two soft pieces of rope over the 
 back to each side and fastened to the rope, one 
 just in front of the croup and the other just on 
 the withers. This rigging should not be too loose 
 on the horse, for when he stands up and quits 
 pulling if it is so, it will hang down, and there is 
 danger of his stepping over it. Having a loop 
 spliced in each end, and putting it through the 
 ring in the halter from the opposite sides, it will 
 form a cross, and the two ends being tied with 
 the hitching rope will prevent the rigging from 
 becoming larger or looser on the colt. This also 
 must be done with the rigging No. 1. Although 
 this rigging is very simple, and is easily put on, 
 being done very quickly, yet I do not recom- 
 mend it for high strung horses or mustangs or 
 animals that will buck, for in bucking it is liable 
 to slip up under his tail, and make it sore, or 
 even slip up over his back and pull down on his 
 neck, but in draft horses, colts or horses partially 
 broken, this rigging will do. In teaching them 
 
36 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 
 
 to follow you will have to pull harder, but other- 
 wise doing the same way as with rigging No. I. 
 If desirous of putting him into a stall, the rigging 
 may be taken off, and tied up with a rope in the 
 halter, leaving him with a rope behind him from 
 each side of the stall, so when he backs up 
 against it, he will step up in his place. When 
 giving him his second lesson a piece of sash cord 
 may be used with a large loop; this dropped over 
 his hind parts can be used the same as rigging 
 No. 2. This I use in teaching yearlings to fol- 
 low, having a halter with a strap on and drop- 
 ping the cord over the rump, holding them 
 straight by the head, and pulling on the cord; 
 the same time saying the words, " Come here." 
 This may be taught in the two above methods. 
 
 I do not recommend any war bridles to be used, 
 but I will give them here, in order that the reader 
 may know them when he hears of them. The 
 reason that I do not approve of teaching colts to 
 follow by the use of war bridles and whip is they 
 break a colt's mouth, which takes several months 
 at times to heal, again interfering with the bitting 
 and after training of the colt. If a colt has his 
 mouth broken, i. c, the corners of the mouth, it 
 may become so tender that he cannot bear the 
 touch of the bit, and healing quickly may become 
 tough and calloused, and teach him to pull or lug. 
 Take a soft rope about the size of a sash cord 
 or a little larger, making a loop in one end large 
 enough to get over the horse's lower.jjaw, the 
 
HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS yj 
 
 other end being put through this loop making a 
 head stall. Put over the horse's head right be- 
 hind the ears and the loop over his lower jaw hav- 
 ing the end to work from on the left side. 
 
 Some of our leading horse tamers and trainers 
 use this by standing on one side, giving a strong 
 jerk, raising the horse from his feet by the pain 
 which is caused from the rope, pulling the rope, at 
 the same time using the words, " Come here," 
 then coming on the other side and continuing 
 until he will follow. Very often I have seen this 
 result in teaching colts to rear or strike, and some- 
 times they become very vicious. But this must be 
 done by standing on one side and pulling lightly 
 until the colt turns his head to one side, when 
 you will encourage him, and repeat it on the 
 other side. Then coming back to the first side, 
 pull again gently until he will take one step. It 
 matters not how small a step it is, just so he 
 moves a foot, when you will stop again and 
 encourage him. Do the same on the other side; 
 continue this until he will follow you. If he 
 should try to pull away from you, hold him 
 steady, but as soon as he stops pulling ease 
 on the rope. This in no case will be necessary 
 to use on any colt that has been broken by 
 my former two methods. 
 
 I will relate an instance here of a stock raiser 
 in Missouri who hired me to go on his farm 
 to break some colts. He told me that some were 
 halter broke, but some of them were not. I after- 
 
38 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 
 
 wards learned the reason why they were not all 
 halter broke. They could not catch them to put a 
 halter on, and his men not being experts, could 
 not throw a rope, so the colts ran longer without 
 being caught. On arriving at the farm, I imme- 
 diately began work haltering several of the colts. 
 I found the corners of their mouths were very 
 badly broken, and the colts very poorly halter 
 broke. One well bred colt had a hole in one 
 side of his mouth, it being so sore that I refused 
 to do anything more than to halter break and 
 tame him, leaving instructions that a bridle 
 should not be put on until his mouth was 
 thoroughly healed. Inquiring from him how this 
 was done, he told me that a horse doctor travel- 
 ing through that country showed him how 
 to halter-break his colts, this being the result 
 from his war bridle. Another method of war 
 bridle breaking is to tie a rope around the 
 colt's neck, then bring it down through his 
 mouth, put the end through the rope around his 
 neck, and drawing tightly, using a long whip 
 to cut the colt from behind, and when the 
 colt runs from the whip, he is taken with a sharp 
 jerk on the mouth by the war bridle, this being 
 repeated until the colt will step up to the crack 
 of the whip, with a broken mouth and in many 
 cases a broken heart. 
 
 In books sold throughout the country, I find a 
 great many men are practising anothor method 
 with less common sense, and just as cruel as the 
 
HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 39 
 
 war bridle. First, by taking a rope with a loop 
 in one end around the body of the horse, the 
 other end being first in the loop drawn rather 
 tightly over the flanks, bringing the rope between 
 the legs and through the rigging of the halter, 
 and tied to a hitching post or some other place. 
 Now, the colt being tied thus, will kick and 
 plunge, pulling back and falling down, carrying 
 the whole weight of his front parts on the rope, 
 they will sway from side to side falling with it, 
 with the blindness of not caring how they strike, 
 very often bruising their eyes from striking them 
 on the ground. Very often they will rear and 
 and strike, trying to get the rope from between 
 their legs. After being exhausted from pulling 
 back, they will stand close; being lacerated be- 
 tween the legs they quickly learn to stand with a 
 slack rope, so it will not touch tender places, but 
 this takes two or three weeks to heal. Very 
 often you have to spend a great deal of time in 
 healing between the legs, to say nothing of the 
 injuries caused to the head from throwing them- 
 selves on the ground, or battering themselves 
 against something that is close, such as the par- 
 titions in the stables where they are taken into as 
 soon as the rope is put on. This causes a great 
 many colts to lose an eye, and often so strains 
 the back as to make them weak for life. 
 
 Some trainers use a whip. Getting a colt into 
 a ring thirty or forty feet in diameter, they imme- 
 diately apply the whip to their heels, running the 
 
40 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 
 
 colt a number of times around, when they will stop 
 him and make him go the other way; then they 
 will try to draw his attention by snapping the 
 whip, and approaching him, if he runs away, they 
 will whip him on the heels and try it over again. 
 Every time the horse runs by them they will use 
 the whip on him. I have seen a man spend a 
 whole half day on a high bred horse, whipping 
 him in this way, until no one dare go very close 
 to him, for he had learned to fight with his front 
 feet as well as his hind; but this is not gener- 
 ally the result from such training, as a horse 
 learning that he gets cut on the hind part will 
 face the trainer, but very often not until his spirit 
 is broken, when the trainer will approach him, 
 holding a halter open in both hands, slipping it 
 over the colt's nose and snapping it. Then they 
 put him in hind hobbles and tie him to a post or 
 other place. If he pulls back the hobbles throw 
 him, as the rope comes from the hind legs up to the 
 ring in the halter, so he soon learns to stand with- 
 out pulling back. The next day he is put in the 
 ring again and has another lesson with the whip, 
 a little in advance of the one of the day before, 
 teaching him to follow all around. Although this 
 teaches the horse to follow, it does not fully halter 
 break him, for very often he learns to break away 
 when one is leading him with a rope. I do not 
 know why this is practiced, as I have never seen 
 any good practical results from such training on 
 wild colts. 
 
HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 4 1 
 
 If you wish to teach a colt to follow without a 
 rope you may get him in a large box-stall or ring 
 or small corral with the fence high enough so as 
 stop all attempts at jumping over, and discourage 
 him in any effort. Standing in the center of the 
 ring you may start him up slowly with a crack oi 
 the whip, but not hitting him, and allow him to 
 run until he slackens his speed of his own accord, 
 when you will stop him and make him turn the 
 other way by still cracking the whip, but not 
 hitting him, as anything that will hurt him will 
 teach him to be afraid and will have its effects in 
 after training. Now, if he does not stop make 
 him turn the other way again until he will stop. 
 This may be repeated from one side and then the 
 other, but very few will ever resist this over ten 
 minutes. When they stand still you may snap 
 the whip and they will face you. You will ap- 
 proach them now and pet them, if having taught 
 them how to eat sugar you may give them a 
 piece, if not, give them something which they like, 
 such as apples, bread, or even oats or hay if they 
 will not eat anything else. Now, lay the whip 
 over the back with the loop hanging down close 
 above the hocks, using the words " Come here," 
 and having been taught to lead by either of the 
 first two methods he will readily step up when 
 you will pet him for it. Thus encouraging him, 
 he will soon learn to follow you all over without 
 either rope or halter, and not being afraid of you 
 there will be no fear of his running away as in 
 
42 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 
 
 the former method where there is so much fear 
 put into the colt. Now, this method should 
 never be used unless a colt has become gentle or 
 been trained by the first method of " Horse Tam- 
 ing to Harness." By this method I have had 
 great success in teaching horses to allow me 
 to catch them after they have been turned out in 
 pastures or paddocks, but always bringing them 
 something whenever going close to them, petting 
 and speaking kindly to them. 
 
 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING COLTS FOR 
 USE OF HARNESS. 
 
 After having your colt well halter broke, you 
 will braid his tail up with a piece of soft rope by 
 wrapping the rope about the bony part of the tail, 
 and tying both ends of the rope at the end of the 
 braid with a half hitch; thenidoubling the tail, 
 forming a loop, tie the end of the braid to the 
 bony part of the tail, allowing the wraps to come 
 below the half hitches so that the tail will not slip 
 down if a strain should come on it. In order to 
 do this, you will have to be very quiet, easy, slow 
 and your movements steady. Beginning on his 
 neck you will smooth the hair the way that it 
 lays, gradually getting nearer the tail; if he shows 
 any sign of being timid and steps as though he 
 would like to get away from you, you will stop 
 and begin again at his neck, gradually working 
 back, but if he should want to step away allow 
 
FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 43 
 
 him to walk around you as much as he desires, 
 keeping your hand on the same spot while he is 
 doing so. When he stops gradually begin to 
 smoothe him again until at last he will allow you 
 to stroke the tail and gently touch it; when you 
 take hold of it — have a good hold for he is liable 
 to turn a little quickly, but you will stay, turning 
 with him until he stops; then braid his tail, form- 
 ing the loop, place the halter strap in and make 
 a slip hitch on the loop of the tail, not on the 
 strap itself, so that it may be let go or pulled out 
 very quickly; but if he is too ugly then you may 
 bring another horse alongside of him in one cor- 
 ner and braid his tail up in a similar manner as is 
 mentioned in " Halter Breaking Colts," but gen- 
 erally colts that you have halter broke one 
 day you will want to tame the next, as this 
 method gives better practical results than leav- 
 ing them stand. You may judge how far back to 
 tie the head by studying the disposition of the 
 different horses. A cold blooded horse will not turn 
 quickly and often will beome discouraged if he 
 is forced to turn very short, so you will leave 
 him with a longer strap and his head not so far 
 back, beginning to work slowly and as he sub- 
 mits shortening the strap and then begin to crowd 
 your work closer, but a mustang's head may be 
 tied a little shorter back, and will have to be 
 allowed to turn some little time before you can 
 do very much work, for if he should endeavor to 
 get away he will buck and throw himself and 
 
44 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 
 
 may cause a fracture in the neck. But by tying 
 him back gradually in turning he will soon give 
 up, when you may crowd all your work on him as 
 much as possible. A draft horse's head may be 
 tied back and you may go to work on him at 
 once, he will soon give up; standard bred horses 
 you must be very careful of, as they are usually 
 quick and high spirited and if forced too soon will 
 make a very hard fight. These must be worked 
 slowly in the beginning and not tied back too 
 short; for if tied too short they will turn too 
 quickly and fall, but allowed to come under the 
 influence of the turn gradually, their heads may 
 be taken back a little shorter, but not until they 
 submit should anything be crowded upon them. 
 Thoroughbreds should only be worked in an in- 
 closure with not so much room, and still easier 
 than the standard bred, but it will not take so 
 long, as when they give up they will make no 
 further efforts— being game horses they will stand 
 under anything that may be brought on them. 
 
 Having determined how far back }our horse's 
 head should be tied, let him loose in a large 
 corral, or even in an open field where there is 
 nothing that he might get mixed up with, such 
 as trees or anything that he may fall against; 
 take a very light pole and at the proper 
 time gradually approach him. If he seems 
 to be too much afraid, gradually walk 
 around him, coming closer and closer until you 
 can touch him, then pole him all over lightly 
 
I < 
 
FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 45 
 
 until he submits and will allow the pole to touch 
 him any place without moving or showing signs 
 of fear. Then take a sheet or blanket and begin 
 to shake it some distance away from him and if 
 afraid of it he will immediately begin to turn. 
 Gradually walk around him, shaking it all the 
 time, until he will allow you to come close to him. 
 When he stops then let him smell it, touch him 
 gently with it until he will allow you to throw it 
 up in the air and let the blanket fall upon him, or 
 under him. Then take a harness and do the 
 same with the harness, until he will allow you to 
 stand and throw it on him from the side upon 
 which his head is tied. When he has given up to 
 this, you may place your left hand on his left hip. 
 If the head is tied on the left side, press against 
 his hip so as to raise the weight off that leg. 
 Reach down with the right hand, take hold of his 
 hoof, raise the leg up straight so as not to hurt 
 him. If he is afraid of this, take hold of the 
 strap and turn him quickly nineteen or twenty 
 times and raise the leg up again. When he sub- 
 mits to this get under him as in the act of a 
 blacksmith shoeing a horse, hammer on the foot 
 and rub it, then, go on the other side, having a 
 piece of light rope tied around the neck for a 
 hand hold close to his shoulders, which must be 
 loose; take hold with the left hand when standing 
 on the right side facing front; let the right hand 
 slip down, leaning against the horse's shoulder so 
 as to raise the weight from that foot. You will 
 
46 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 
 
 then raise the horse's foot, and if he will not 
 stand and allow this to be done, turn him as you 
 did in raising the hind leg, then let the strap 
 loose and tie it on the other side. He will now 
 stand and allow you to go to his tail without 
 any trouble, so shift sides as quickly as possible 
 and using the pole the same as on the other 
 side, blanket and harness, and picking the 
 feet up vice versa. After having raised the left 
 front leg you may mount as in the act of volting, 
 but do not jump on the first attempt, only rais- 
 ing yourself about twelve inches from the ground, 
 then speak to him and pet him; continue this 
 until he will allow you to jump on, then teach 
 him to turn while on his back, but do not remain 
 on too long the first time. Jump off and pet him, 
 when he will turn and stop at the word and show 
 no signs of fear. You will then let his head 
 loose and place some one on his back and lead 
 him around a little; then put your saddle harness 
 on, and if a doubtful case, put the front strap 
 hobbles with the knee pads, as he may be dropped 
 on his knees a few times, at the same time using 
 the word " whoa." This will teach him to stop 
 when he hears that word. Have your cart in 
 readiness to put on him, using a collar and hames, 
 no check or blinds on the bridle, and bring him 
 in front of the cart, standing on the left side. 
 With the rope of the hobbles over the left arm, 
 you will raise the shafts of the cart and draw them 
 over his back. If he does not stand, drop him on 
 
FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 47 
 
 his knees, using the word " whoa." This will not 
 have to be done more than once or twice in any 
 case. Then reach over the back with the left hand 
 and place the right shaft log on the right shaft, 
 and then the left, all this time facing the cart; 
 pull the cart up in place and fasten the shaft girth 
 very loosly, then tie a strap from the axel in the 
 loop of the tail, for having control of a horse by 
 any member of his body it is easy to keep 
 control of him by keeping control of that mem- 
 ber. Now, he is practically hitched up, as he can 
 not get out of the cart in one jump. You may now 
 hook up the traces, all the while keeping hold of 
 the rope in the halter, but very few colts 
 will ever move until called upon after being 
 brought under submission. Tie both wheels to 
 the shafts so as they will not turn, leaving 
 the shaft girth very loose so the shaft will 
 move six inches to either side, having a strap 
 attached to the bit under the jaw to prevent it 
 from coming out on either side, and standing on 
 the left side, holding the left rein in the hand, 
 taking hold of the shaft with the right hand and 
 pulling one step to the left, then stop the colt 
 and pet him; but this should not be done until 
 rope and hobbles have been removed from the 
 colt's feet, unless he is a very doubtful case, 
 repeating on the right side what has been done 
 on the left. After he has taken the one step on 
 the right, go on the left and get him to take two 
 steps. Repeat this from side to side, increasing in 
 
48 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 
 
 the number of steps every time until he will make 
 a complete circle on either side, when you will 
 gradually step back from his head and speak to 
 him and start him turning until you can stand be- 
 hind the cart and turn him either side from a tug at 
 the line before you allow him to go ahead. This 
 not only teaches him to turn, but teaches him to 
 get in the collar and lug or pull, and prevents 
 him learning such habits as jibing and others. 
 You may put the lines up in the turrets, and give 
 him a little exercise, allowing to take his own 
 time, and do not crowd him to any extent what- 
 ever; do not ask him to go out of a walk, or 
 remain in harness over ten minutes after he will 
 answer to the touch of either line. This may be 
 repeated the next day; that is, the part of the 
 method which is used in the cart before driving 
 him out on the streets. When taking him out 
 on the streets put a kicking strap on for safety. 
 Take him every place where he will see ordinary 
 objects that very often frighten horses, such as 
 electric and cable cars, steam engines, awnings, 
 etc. You will find that they will not be afraid 
 in taking them there when they are first broken, 
 but were you to keep them away until they have 
 become accustomed to the cart, harness and new 
 surroundings and then bring them to those 
 objects, they would be very apt to shy. If they 
 are a little afraid of any object do not urge them 
 up any closer than they will go. You may lead 
 them by any object and they will not be much 
 
FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 49 
 
 frightened if they have confidence in you, which 
 they will have if you have not taught them to fear 
 you. 
 
 The second day they should not be driven 
 around more than half an hour and allowed to go 
 slowly, just a little trot, faster than a walk. 
 When unhitching them have alum lotion and 
 syringe the mouth out and wash all places where 
 the harness touched so as to prevent the colt 
 from becoming sore; rub him off well with a piece 
 of sack or cloth. This will make him gentle, 
 beginning at his nose rubbing up over the head 
 and ears, and touch every part of him lightly. 
 This lesson may be repeated until he becomes 
 cheerful, when he may be put in a bit and har- 
 ness. A smooth, plain bit, broken in the center, 
 with elastic checks, may be put upon him, loosely 
 the first time, and only left on while he fights; 
 but as soon as he gives up they should be taken 
 off, and put on him for a greater length of time 
 every day, shortening the check as he raises his 
 head. These checks should be for a roadster 
 one overdrawn, and two side checks; for a saddle 
 horse, two high side checks and two low side 
 checks, but a gutta percha dumb jockey is still 
 better for either saddle or carriage horse, but not 
 for the roadster. Now, every colt's mouth must 
 be prepared for the bit, as the sharp edges on the 
 teeth probe the tongue and cut the cheeks, and 
 if in a city every colt should be shod light before 
 he has been driven the second time, for the hoof 
 
50 TO TEACH A COLT HOW TO STAND HITCHED 
 
 may break and make his feet tender. Do not 
 place the checks on while driving until he has 
 become accustomed to carrying his head up in 
 the bitting harness, when the check may be used 
 in driving. When driving, if a colt should show 
 fear at any object, turn his head away from it 
 while passing until almost past the object he is 
 afraid of, then let his head come straight. An 
 object passed three or four times in this way will 
 teach the colt not to shy at it. 
 
 TO TEACH A COLT HOW TO STAND 
 HITCHED. 
 
 A bridle and halter combined should be used 
 for this, that is a leather halter with simply a light 
 brow-band put on, making a head stall of it, with 
 strap and buckle to fasten bits in the horse's 
 mouth, a ring under the jaw in which to fasten 
 rope; seeing that no check is used for the first 
 five or six days, this may be put on the colt and 
 left on him in the stable, simply unstrapping the 
 bit. After having driven him some distance the 
 second day, take him to a fence where he can not 
 turn around, so as to prevent the pulling of the 
 head to one side, fastening a rope in the head 
 stall and tying him to the fence or railing. This 
 may be repeated every time he is taken out 
 driving. When hitching him to a post or the 
 corner of a fence for the first time, he must be 
 tied very close so as to not give him too much 
 
HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP 5 1 
 
 room to step to one side; the head being pulled 
 back he may fall, and will cost you a new shaft, 
 for if he falls upon the shaft he will surely break 
 it. After he has learned to stand tied or hitched 
 to a fence or post with a short rope, the rope 
 may be lengthened out to the length which is 
 ordinarily used, then, a heavy weight may be 
 used, putting the end of the hitching strap 
 through the ring of the bit and fastening it to 
 the ring in the head-stall. This I do not recom- 
 mend to use until the colt is thoroughly well 
 broken and will stand hitched any place without 
 the least sign of fear or endeavoring to get away. 
 
 HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP. 
 
 Stand in front of him with a piece of heavy 
 cord, pressing it on his nose, at the same time 
 using the word " Back," and if he bows his head 
 down, pet him. Then repeat, press until he 
 takes one step, when you will pet him again; 
 repeat this several times, making him back first 
 with one foot and then the other, always repeat- 
 ing the word " Back." Continue this lesson 
 until he will step back nine or ten steps, without 
 stopping. This may be repeated the next day 
 until he will back at the command of the voice. 
 Then attach the string (just above the rings of 
 the bit) to the bridle, having the reins come from 
 the rings in the bit on both sides of the horse 
 through the shaft lugs with the shaft girth 
 
52 HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP 
 
 fastened down so as to hold the shaft lugs down 
 in their place, standing behind the horse pulling 
 on both reins lightly, but not steady. If one pull 
 does not bring him, give a number of them, at 
 the same time saying " Back." As soon as he 
 takes one step, pet him for it. He will learn 
 that you want him to back when you pull on 
 the reins, and, therefore, will back very readily. 
 Repeat this until you can back him straight or 
 on either side as you wish, when you will 
 lengthen the string on his nose so as to make 
 more of a pull come on the bit and repeat until 
 he will back readily from a tug on the bit. 
 Now put him in the cart, stand behind the cart 
 and give a pull on the reins very lightly. If he 
 does not back when spoken to and the bit being 
 pulled on, take your cord and press on his nose 
 the same as in the first lesson, then speak to him 
 and pet him. This will teach him not to be 
 afraid. Sometimes they are a little afraid to go 
 against the weight while they are in a breeching 
 hitched to any rig, but after having been once or 
 twice backed they will back readily, but if they 
 do not back very clever put the cord back on the 
 bridle and repeat the second lesson while in the 
 cart until they become very clever in backing. 
 Continue this lesson until they will back for you 
 readily by speaking to them. 
 
HOW TO BREAK COLTS WITH HIND 
 HOBBLES. 
 
 This is practiced very much in the western 
 country where they tie to one or both hind legs 
 a rope passed around the neck in between the 
 front legs and fastened, when the trainer hits 
 the colt all over with sacks, but this method 
 alone I have never seen used very successfully. 
 I had two colts sent to me that trainers had 
 been tying in this way for twenty-one days, and 
 they were just as wild the morning of the last 
 day as they were before they had been touched. 
 They would strike, bite and kick. The failure. 
 I believe, was due to their handling, for they 
 were never made to repeat their work after hav- 
 ing been, let loose to find out whether they had 
 submitted to their treatment or not, so we must 
 always put our horses to a test after the first 
 lesson to ascertain whether they have sub- 
 mitted. 
 
 After a colt has been well halter-broken, you 
 may tie his head back, as in former methods, 
 with a heavy strap which is made like a Dutch 
 collar to go over his neck, coming well back 
 on his shoulders, strong, heavy straps to be at- 
 tached on either side. These should be made to 
 53 
 
54 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HIND HOBBLES. 
 
 fasten with a loop, not a buckle, and should be 
 well wrapped with something soft so as not to 
 chafe the fetlocks while they are on. Throw 
 these between the hind legs, pick one up and 
 placing the end through the loop, fasten it to 
 the Dutch collar very short so as to take the 
 foot almost from the ground. Then let his head 
 loose and fasten the other strap on the other 
 side the same way. If you do not get these 
 straps short enough, you will find that he can 
 handle himself quite freely, so they must be 
 taken so short that he can just stand, not falling 
 when he moves. Now get a heavy pole to imi- 
 tate the shaft of a cart, lay it on his back and 
 touch him all over with it, and use the blanket 
 as in former method; also throw the harness on 
 him until he is not afraid of it. If he is a doubt- 
 ful case, you may leave him in any lot for half 
 a day without injuring him, providing you have 
 the hobbles well made and so they will not jam 
 on the fetlocks when drawn tight, but the lot 
 must not be a sandy one, or a place where there 
 is loose dirt, for if it gets inside of the hobbles 
 it will chafe him and his legs will swell. Every- 
 thing that you wish to do with him must be re- 
 peated after you have taken him out of the hob- 
 bles, so that he will not become discouraged or 
 feel afraid when you undertake to handle him 
 the next day. This is a very good method when 
 used with the first described as an after lesson, 
 
HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HIND HOBBLES. 55 
 
 which will give good results. Also teach him to 
 turn, pull, stop, start, back as in former method, 
 but this must not be done while he is in the 
 hobbles, as it would discourage him and may 
 make him sulk. 
 
56 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 
 
 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE. 
 
 A horse must be well halter broken and very 
 tame if you wish a gentle saddle horse. Gentle- 
 ness is to be considered greatest of all, then 
 comes gameness so that he will go any place that 
 you want him to, and if he is strong and active 
 with these qualities he will make a good, service- 
 able saddle horse. All of these qualities must be 
 in a horse whether used by a lady or gentleman. 
 You may pick any horse, even without any gait 
 except his natural gaits, such as run, trot, walk, 
 or pace, and make a saddle horse out of him with 
 all the gaits. He will make a pretty horse in 
 action if his actions in his natural gaits are pretty. 
 A high-stepping trotter will make a high-stepping 
 single-footer, and a light running horse will make 
 a light, easy galloper, so these qualities will also 
 have to be sought if you wish a desirable looking 
 horse. Now to accompany these we must have 
 the formation, a fine head, shapely neck and 
 body, with good sound limbs. For a gentle- 
 man's saddle horse I think one of nearly full- 
 blood (thoroughbred), as they are game, gentle 
 when handled properly, quick, with good wind, 
 well muscled and good, sound limbs. But for a 
 lady's saddle horse I find that the standard-bred 
 make the best. They have the gameness of the 
 thoroughbred, docility which can not be equaled, 
 are active and easily taught, and can be taught 
 

 n 
 
 f n^M^HHE IpHBHBHI^^^ 
 
 ■SPSS w 
 
 
HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 57 
 
 all the gaits by a lady herself. Therefore, after 
 trained, are easily managed by tender hands. 
 
 After seeing that the horse is well halter broke 
 and is thoroughly gentle by our first system of 
 treatment, a saddle and blanket may be placed on 
 him, with streams of cloth hanging down on 
 either side, with a band around his nose high 
 enough so it will not shut the wind off, forming 
 it into a head stall, and fastening reins under- 
 neath the jaw. This band should fit snugly on 
 the nose, so as it will turn the head either side 
 when the rein on that side is pulled. This strap 
 should not be over five-eighths of an inch wide, 
 and may be round, or a roll of leather which I 
 think is the best, having a soft piece of leather 
 under the jaw just where the reins fasten in to 
 prevent from breaking the skin by the working 
 of the rein. The trainer mounting the saddle 
 when the horse has been taught to stand, if he 
 will not stand and has been broken by the former 
 method, he may be taken by the head and tail 
 and turned a few times sharply, when letting go 
 of the tail at the same time say " Whoa," then 
 attempting, after petting him, to get on. It is 
 customary always to handle horses on the left 
 side, that is, in doing anything that can be done 
 on one side. This is a habit, or custom, with 
 different nationalities and races, some working on 
 the left side, this including all our English speak- 
 ing people, while a great many others do all the 
 work on the right side. After getting into the 
 
58 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 
 
 saddle, and he is willing to stand, he should be 
 petted and caressed. Reaching down with the 
 hand parallel with the nose and pulling out to 
 the side by light jerks, chirping to the colt, when 
 he moves or steps on that side, pet him. Then, 
 use the other hand on that side, and when he 
 steps from the light jerk again, speak to him and 
 pet him. Continue this treatment, first on one 
 side and then on the other, until he will turn 
 completely around either side; then you may walk 
 him, after making a turn a few steps ahead, when 
 you will turn again. This much may be given 
 him in his first lesson, including taming, after 
 having been halter broken. That is, taming 
 with the head and tail system, going through all 
 the method as used in breaking in harness, ex- 
 cepting hitching him to harness and cart, at 
 which point you will begin to teach the saddle 
 instead. 
 
 This lesson should be repeated the second day 
 by taking the halter strap and fastening it to his 
 tail, the same as when taming him, tying him 
 short so that he must turn when he moves, and 
 make him turn a number of times, first on one 
 side and then on the other, before getting into the 
 saddle. This practiced for a few mornings before 
 giving him his lesson from the saddle in turning, 
 will make him much lighter to turn, as he will 
 give his head when the rein is touched. Every 
 time vou pull on the reins to turn him, the pull 
 
HOW TO BREAK R HORSE FOR SADDLE 59 
 
 should be straight to the nose. That is, in a par- 
 allel line from the hand to the strap on the nose, 
 and should be done with gentle jerks. The lighter 
 touch you give to the horse, the better reined he 
 will be, as a very fine reined horse will only come 
 from very gentle handling. Some trainers imag- 
 ine if they jerk and pull hard, they will get their 
 horses to run more quickly, but this is not so, for 
 the easier touch, if direct, the quicker your horse 
 will be in turning. When he becomes well prac- 
 ticed, and will turn with your lightest touch, then 
 have one rein to come from under the jaw over 
 the neck, holding it on the opposite side so as the 
 pull will come equally on both reins, that is to 
 make the strain on the neck as well as under the 
 jaw. This will teach him to rein from the neck 
 instead of pulling him around by the mouth, prac- 
 ticing him by this method, first on one side and 
 then on the other until he becomes so easily 
 turned that at the least pull up on one side he 
 will turn to the other. This can be done in three 
 weeks if properly handled. Now, no steel should 
 be put in a colt's mouth that is to be trained for 
 a saddle horse, until he is well reined, and that 
 the lightest touch will turn either way or stop; 
 when, after having his mouth prepared, a dumb 
 jockey may be used. These are made of a gutta 
 percha band with two gutta percha arms and 
 placed over the back of the colt, which fits on as 
 a saddle, with elastic checks from the arm to the 
 bit. 
 
60 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 
 
 After having the colt well reined, a bridle may 
 be put on, still leaving the nose band in place 
 with two reins, and two reins to the bridle, which 
 is four; the four reins may be used together in 
 turning, or stopping, but do not use the reins of 
 the bridle as much as the strap rein, but grad- 
 ually increase the use until your colt will rein 
 with the slightest touch of the bridle rein. Then 
 you may take the nose band off, and put two 
 more reins on the bridle. The first two reins put 
 on should always he the curb rein, the last two 
 being the snaffle. We may now begin to teach 
 him his gaits. 
 
 The only gait we should have taught him in his 
 first series of lessons of breaking him to the sad- 
 dle should be a walk. The next gait should be a 
 trot and slow gallop. When he will walk, trot 
 or lope just as we wish, we may teach him to 
 single foot. This is all done by riding in the 
 saddle. 
 
 If you wish to retain your horse with a light 
 mouth, teach him this with a strap on his nose, 
 having a light set of shoes put on the front feet 
 or no shoes at all, with heavy shoes on the hind 
 feet, sitting well back on his back and carrying 
 his head very high, urging him on. This will 
 bring him into a fox trot. When he has taken 
 two or three steps, let his head down, pet him, 
 speak kindly and allow him to walk some distance, 
 when you will repeat. Do not endeavor to get 
 
HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 6l 
 
 him to single fcot too much in the first lesson, as 
 this gait is not natural and is very hard on him at 
 first attempt. Those muscles which required to 
 be developed for this gait have had no oppor- 
 tunity previously and he will become sore if too 
 much work is given him. You will soon learn 
 this by the way he will fret and sweat, This mav 
 be repeated from day to day, each time increas- 
 ing the distance you will make him single 
 foot, until he will single foot for you a half 
 mile before you begin to make him single foot 
 rapidly. 
 
 Now, to do this, you will have to have the 
 front shoes changed and heavier ones put on, so 
 as he will reach out more; by this time the hind 
 ones are worn down some. If they were an 18 
 ounce iron shoe behind in ten days they would 
 be about the weight to balance a nine ounce 
 shoe in front, for single footing. If this method 
 is followed, in one month's time your horse will 
 be a square, easy and rapid fast single foote r . 
 After having taught him to single foot, and you 
 want him to single foot at the touch of the curb 
 rein, to trot on the snaffle rein, so that you may 
 keep a steady hold while raising to the trot in 
 your saddle, and also, if you wish to make your 
 horse a combination, he will trot while hitched 
 to a buggy being the same rein used in harness. 
 To teach them to lope you should always teach 
 them with a loose rein, so now he will trot from 
 
62 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 
 
 the snaffle, single foot from the curb, and lope 
 from both reins being carried loosely. 
 
 Very nearly all saddle horses can be made 
 good single footers or good trotters, easy lopers 
 if well trained, providing they have the life in 
 in them. 
 
ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE. 
 
 I feel that this is all nonsense, and all who 
 have much work to do in the saddle agree with 
 me. The riding teacher will tell you one thing 
 is right and some one else will tell you it is 
 wrong, and I think the best guide in these mat- 
 ters is common sense. Some will dwell on how 
 to carry your whip, and in which hand to carry 
 it without regard to your being right or left- 
 handed. If you ask them the reason for any of 
 these rules, they will tell you it is the way it is 
 done in Europe or somewhere else. We want 
 rules and methods that will teach us how to stay 
 in the saddle when we get there, and yet look 
 to the best advantage at the same time. We 
 should consider first, comfort to ourselves; sec- 
 ond, comfort to the horse; third, a pleasing ap- 
 pearance to others. 
 
 For comfort to yourself see that your bridle 
 is just the one that will enable you to handle 
 your horse with ease. A good bit for ordinary 
 horses is one that can be used as a snaffle or 
 curb, or both, but sometimes you may find this 
 will not do for your horse and a more severe bit 
 is needed. If so, get one that you will not have 
 to use much, so that with a light pull the horse 
 63 
 
64 ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE. 
 
 can be stopped short. Next, look after your 
 saddle. See that it has a comfortable seat, and, if 
 a lady's saddle, that the horn is solid and fast in 
 the tree, and also look well to your girths. If 
 the fastenings are straps and buckles, see that 
 they are strong. Straps and ring fastenings are 
 safer and they will enable you to cinch a horse 
 tighter, and your saddle is not so liable to turn. 
 Have a balancing strap on the side saddle. 
 
 
HOW TO SIT ON A HORSE. 
 
 To sit on a horse the first thing to be consid- 
 ered is your own comfort and next to please 
 others. For comfort have a loose seat, that is, do 
 not grip your saddle in any part, for this soon 
 tires the muscles, and becoming weary you can- 
 not ride with ease. Sit up straight as you would 
 in a chair. Use the same rules in your carriage 
 of body as you would in ordinary circumstances, 
 that is, carry your shoulders well back, and do 
 not sit stiff but loosely and natural, facing right 
 in front of you, and let your legs hang as 
 straight as necessary to comfort, with the feet 
 a little advanced, parallel with the horse's body. 
 Now, if sitting naturally and not lazily, your 
 feet will be still when the horse is walking. By 
 this method you have your balance always, and 
 if your horse is starting on a trot, you will raise 
 in your stirrups just as much and no more than 
 the horse's action will raise you. If the horse 
 is loping, let your body give to every jump, and 
 on turning either side, swing your body, carry- 
 ing the weight on the stirrup on the side to 
 which the horse is turning. By following these 
 rules, in a short time any one can become a good 
 rider. 
 
 65 
 
66 HOW TO SIT ON A HORSE. 
 
 To handle the reins of a saddle horse, you 
 must either use two bits, or one bit with four 
 reins if you want to keep your horse light at 
 hand, and do not wish to interfere with his gait 
 and harness. When trotting, always use the 
 snaffle rein, for this will be the rein used in driv- 
 ing him to harness. Some horsemen in different 
 parts teach their horses to trot when they are 
 taken hold of by the mane. This is chiefly done 
 in Kentucky and Missouri, but when your horse 
 is single-footing or loping, it would be awkward 
 if not impossible, to reach from a buggy and 
 take a horse by the mane; so if he is taught to 
 trot by the snaffle-rein you can always have him 
 trot when he is hitched to a buggy. When 
 single-footing, always use a loose, unsteady 
 curb-rein. By drawing on the curb-rein un- 
 steadily, it will cause a little irritation and im- 
 mediately bring your horse into a single-foot. 
 In loping, always start this with a loose rein, 
 leaning well forward with the right hand 
 stretched so that the reins will lay well on the 
 neck, urging him by speaking or a touch of the 
 heel or whip. 
 
DRIVING. 
 
 When driving a free-going horse, do not pull 
 on the reins unless you speak to him. If you 
 want the horse to go faster and wish to hold a 
 tighter line over him, always urge him with as 
 little irritation as possible, for if he gets excited 
 and goes at it madly he will bolt and soon learn 
 to pull or lug, which is a very unpleasant habit 
 in a driving horse. If he is whipped when trot- 
 ting as fast as he can go, he will be taught to 
 break or given cause to hitch. This habit takes 
 time and pains to remedy. When once a horse 
 acquires the habit of hitching, it is very difficult 
 to get him straight. When you wish your horse 
 to slacken his speed, speak to him in a mild tone 
 and if he does not catch the words he will un- 
 derstand the sound. Many drivers do not pay 
 any attention to this, and whip an old horse for 
 stopping while they have been conversing with 
 some one. When he slackens his speed, give 
 him a loose and comfortable rein. Always be 
 as pleasant as you can; this will encourage and 
 not discourage your horse. When you are 
 speeding, be reasonable in your distance. Do 
 not ask your horse to speed a long distance 
 hitched to a heavy buggy or over hard roads. 
 67 
 
68 DRIVING. 
 
 A quarter of a mile on a level dirt road with a 
 good strong horse is a long distance for him to 
 go at full speed. If you do not speed him too 
 far and hitch him to a light rig, a short distance 
 at high speed will improve his road gait. If you 
 do not follow common-sense and jerk on the 
 reins when anything does not suit you, you will 
 break the horse's mouth, spoil his disposition, 
 and prove yourself void of reason. When a 
 horse's mouth is once broken and becomes sore, 
 it takes a very light pull on the reins to aggra- 
 vate him and may teach him disagreeable habits, 
 such as pulling on one rein, running away, slob- 
 bering, lugging, etc. If the teeth are sharp, the 
 bit drawn from one side to the other will press 
 the cheeks against the sharp edges of the teeth, 
 cutting the cheeks. In case the teeth are sharp 
 on the edges, they should be floated. Some 
 horses when aggravated will often not go at all, 
 and will baulk, but this habit of baulking in 
 buggy horses is generally caused by high check- 
 ing. The horse's mouth is very sensitive and is 
 the chief means of conveying to him your wishes 
 when driving, so if you want a good driver you 
 must save his mouth all that you can. This 
 you may do greatly by your voice. The more 
 gentle and tender you touch the reins the more 
 apt and clever driver your horse will be. With 
 some practice you will learn that a horse can 
 be taught to do things most readily by the voice 
 
DRIVING. 69 
 
 and that the voice is better than any bit that 
 money could buy. For instance, if your horse 
 has signs of speed you may urge him and keep 
 him steady in a manner that you never could do 
 with whip and bit, but when you speed him do 
 not press him too much. Start him easy, stop 
 him before he breaks and let him trot or pace, 
 the gait that comes most natural to him. He 
 will soon learn to road without breaking into 
 a run with a loose rein, but when you speed him, 
 always steady him but not with a tight rein. 
 Speak to him often and encourage him. You 
 may use the whip a little if your horse is lazy, 
 but not under any other circumstances in speed- 
 ing, and then only tapping him as lightly ?s 
 possible. Begin with a very short distance 
 and increasing from day to day until you have 
 reached the distance you desire to speed him. 
 After speeding him, always examine your horse 
 and see if he has hurt himself by interfering or 
 over-reaching, when you will fit boots for him 
 accordingly, but no young horse should be 
 speeded without quarter boots, and with heavy 
 shoes. If a young horse should strike himself 
 and get sore from it, he will become afraid to 
 travel for fear of hurting himself again; but if 
 he has hurt himself get the soreness all out and 
 see that it is well before trying to speed him 
 again. Every colt or horse that has not had a 
 course of training should be well booted when 
 
JO DRIVING. 
 
 taken out to speed. This will prevent him from 
 striking himself and so remove the cause of dis- 
 couragement. Do not let the horse get chafed 
 in any place from harness or vehicle. To pre- 
 vent this, if the horse is soft, bathe in alum 
 water the parts where the harness will chafe, and 
 this will harden the skin. Also be careful not 
 to scald him where the harness touches by get- 
 ting him too hot when he is fresh from the 
 country. Also do not work any horse for speed 
 in a heavy rain, as this will shorten his gait. It 
 is easier to prevent a bad habit than to cure one. 
 There have been many good horses spoiled from 
 carelessness and ignorance on the part of the 
 drivers, but no habit spoils a horse so much in 
 driving as the habit of lugging, as he is not 
 safe even for the best of drivers. 
 
HOW TO DRIVE IN A CITY AND PREVENT 
 
 COLLISIONS AND YET DRIVE 
 
 WITH EASE. 
 
 Can you drive a horse with ease and comfort 
 in a large city? If you do, you will know how 
 to appreciate your quality of driving when in 
 a crowded street. If you cannot drive well, let 
 me give you a few points on the art and how to 
 avoid accidents. First, do your own thinking 
 and stop instead of thinking that the other 
 team will stop. Always turn to the right when 
 you are passing another team unless it will be 
 inconvenient, when you may turn to the left to 
 avoid an accident, but, in the United States 
 turning to the right is the rule. In England 
 they turn the other way. Now, if you think 
 the other team will stop or turn out, you may 
 be mistaken, for the other driver may think the 
 same as you in regard to yourself, and he driv- 
 ing straight ahead and you also waiting for each 
 other to stop or turn out will run into each 
 other and you may cause an accident or get 
 blocked if nothing else. If you do not get 
 mixed in this way, just do your part, by keeping 
 out and away from the very appearance of 
 trouble. Always drive on the right side of the 
 7i 
 
72 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 
 
 street when convenient, and always turn slowly 
 and on the right side while going around a cor- 
 ner. If you are turning to the left, go over to 
 the right side of the street on the side which 
 you are going to turn. When you turn you 
 will be on the right side of the street you are 
 now on and thus avoid any teams that are com- 
 ing up on their right side. If you wish to turn 
 to the right, turn close around the corner, 
 which will cause you to be on your right side 
 and thus avoid any passing teams coming from 
 opposite directions. 
 
 To avoid running into pedestrians going over 
 crossings, drive over very slowly and have your 
 horse in hand so as to stop him even at the 
 next step. It is your place to give way when 
 there is danger to life or limb, under every cir- 
 cumstance. The pedestrian always has the 
 right-of-way over a team. Bicycles and people 
 on horse back, etc., also have the right of way, 
 and you must always stop your team to let 
 them pass. It matters not whether you are on 
 the right or left side, this rule must be followed 
 in every case. If you do not, you will be held 
 responsible for an accident. When a carriage 
 is coming that has women and children in it, it 
 is not only polite, but it is right and you are in 
 duty bound to turn out for them and give them 
 the right of way so as not to cause them un- 
 easiness. If you should not turn out and yoi 1 
 
HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 73 
 
 were on the right side of the street and collided 
 with a lady driver and" upset the carriage, in- 
 juring the occupants who would likely be chil- 
 dren, you might get free from the law, but you 
 would have to answer to your God, Who is the 
 Judge most High. If one should get killed you 
 would be the murderer, for by turning to one 
 side or stopping your team it would have pre- 
 vented loss of life; but being so selfish of what 
 you consider your right, the guilt would be 
 upon you. I cannot see any difference in the 
 act of doing something that will cause death, 
 or not doing something that will prevent it 
 when it is in your power. Next to life and 
 safety is the comfort of the people that you 
 have riding with you. Be careful in crossing 
 over car tracks and railway crossings. Cross 
 them at a right angle and you will not have 
 your wheels smashed, for if you get caught in 
 the tracks and try to pull out other than cross- 
 ing them at an angle, you may have a break- 
 down. This happens every day in large cities. 
 When you stop at the sidewalk to let someone 
 off, turn your horse away from the walk in order 
 to open as much space as possible between the 
 wheels, and if it is a lady, drive always to the 
 sidewalk on the right side of the carriage; that 
 is, if the place of stopping is on your left go 
 past it and turn round. It will then be on your 
 right. Turn your horse out to the left, step out 
 
74 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 
 
 of the rig, holding the reins in your right hand 
 and helping the lady out on the left, taking her 
 by the hand. The same rule may be applied in 
 helping a lady into a rig, always helping her in 
 by keeping her skirts from getting mud off the 
 wheels 
 
 Next, we will consider our own comfort in 
 driving. If a gentleman is riding in the same 
 seat, let him drop his arm behind you. This 
 will leave you room to work with both hands 
 freely. If a lady, let her sit well over to the 
 left side with the right shoulder thrown back a 
 little. This will also give you plenty of room. 
 Now if you are right-handed and driving with 
 a loose rein, carry both reins in the left hand 
 and let your hand rest on your lap, but always 
 watch your horse and at the least sign or ap- 
 pearance of danger you may reach well out with 
 your right hand, taking both reins, the left rein 
 between the thumb and the first finger so as to 
 take hold of it with the left hand immediately, 
 now holding both reins between the first and 
 second fingers. In case you wish to change your 
 hold you can place the rein of either hand be- 
 tween the thumb and forefinger of the other 
 hand. If something has frightened your horse 
 which has caused you to gather your lines, you 
 must remember he will never get over a fright 
 by causing him more fear. With a shying horse, 
 it is a common thing to pull the horse's head 
 
HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 75 
 
 around so that he can look at the object he is 
 afraid of, urging him as close as possible to it, 
 even under persuasion of the whip. There is 
 nothing I know of in ordinary use that does a 
 horse so much harm as this method of treat- 
 ment. To avoid all of this and may be the upset- 
 ting of a rig, the breaking of an arm, and pos- 
 sibly a head, it will be best to turn the horse's 
 head the other way and allow him to go by 
 unknowingly. Turn his head away from the ob- 
 ject, holding tight on both reins so as to hold 
 his head in that position and yet not let him 
 turn. You may urge him now somewhat, if nec- 
 essary. A horse passing an object this way will 
 learn to drive by without trouble. 
 
 Never leave your horse untied while hitched 
 to a rig and standing on the street. If you do 
 not want him to run away, tie him securely with 
 a rope, a halter or neck strap, and if necessary 
 with a chain, for some horses will chew a rope 
 or strap in two. I do not recommend using 
 weights, for I have seen horse after horse leav- 
 ing, with a weight attached to him, very easily; 
 but a rope around the neck and through a ring 
 of the bit is strong enough and securely tied 
 will hold a horse. So will a neck strap used in 
 the same way. A halter may be used by putting 
 it on over the bridle, but in case there is no place 
 to tie a horse, and you must use a weight, al- 
 ways put the strap through the ring in the curb 
 
?6 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 
 
 stone and through one ring in the bit to the 
 other; if there is no ring in the curb stone, T 
 recommend you to have someone to hold your 
 horse, for safety. Of course, a great deal of 
 judgment must be used as to which and what 
 method is required. There are some horses 
 that are never tied by their owners, but even the 
 most gentle of these I consider unsafe, and would 
 recommend that every horse be securely tied 
 when left standing alone. 
 
HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE THAT HAS BEEN 
 SPOILED AND TAUGHT TO PULL. 
 
 If, while going he carries his nose out 
 straight, you may take him to dentist and have 
 his teeth cut, which, in many cases, will stop 
 this; that is, if he is not over-ambitious. If he 
 carries his nose on his breast, you will some- 
 times find that an overdraw-check will remove 
 this by compelling him to carry the nose out 
 straight, you may take him to a dentist and have 
 dies will help a horse. A horse that pulls so 
 badly that the moment you slack the lines he 
 will bolt and break into a run, hitch in a two- 
 wheeled cart or a wagon that you can turn very 
 short. If in the two-wheeled cart, tie both of 
 the wheels so that they will not turn; if in a 
 wagon, tie only the hind wheels. To do this a 
 sandy lot is best, but take him where you can 
 get a dirt lot, if nothing else. Now, begin 10 
 turn him in as short a circle as possible without 
 turning the rig over, and let him turn as quickly 
 as you can. Let him run just as long as he 
 wants to, but do not let him start to run too 
 quickly. Rather wait until he is a little tired of 
 turning before giving him a slack rein, until he 
 will walk, when you will begin to turn him the 
 other way. After he has become tired of turn- 
 ing and is willing to turn under a loose rein, 
 77 
 
78 HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE. 
 
 then you may begin to make your circles largely. 
 At each time, however, that he wants to bolt or 
 run, bring him back to the short turning, each 
 time using the word "easy," so that he will 
 learn to understand by this word "easy" that if 
 he does not go easy or go slow, he will be made 
 to turn, which will soon become very distasteful 
 to him. Some trainers do what they call "trail- 
 ing," which is to take the horses on a race-track 
 and let them run around the track with a loose 
 rein until they become tired and are willing to 
 go slow. Sometimes this will do all that is re- 
 quired, but very often neither of these two 
 methods are needed, for a nose strap is often all 
 that is necessary. This should be fastened in 
 the ring of the bit with a strap to the head-piece 
 of the bridle, keeping it up from shutting off the 
 horse's wind. This brings a direct pull on the 
 head instead of the mouth. Now you may "set" 
 him or punish him a little on the nose when he 
 goes too fast, but at all other times give him 
 an easy rein, and with careful handling your 
 horse will come back to driving" with an easy 
 rein, when you may remove the nose strap and 
 drive him on an easy bit of leather or rubber. If 
 your horse drives with a side-rein, or on one 
 rein, teach him to drive with a loose rein and he 
 will soon go straight for you, and with an easy 
 bit and careful handling he will be driving as 
 clever as ever. 
 
HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 
 
 It is rather a trying ordeal for an inexperi- 
 enced rider to mount a tall horse from the 
 ground, but with a little practice this is an easier 
 feat than one would suppose, and when well per- 
 formed makes the rider appear agile and grace- 
 ful, giving an air of superior horsemanship, and 
 it is well worth any lady's while to acquire. 
 
 For this method of mounting, the first requi- 
 site is that the horse should stand still, and if he 
 does not know how, he may be taught. Any 
 lady can have this done under her direction by 
 simply having the groom take the horse in one 
 hand by the reins close to the bit, and with the 
 other hand holding the tail, drawing the head 
 and tail somewhat together, making him turn a 
 number of times; the more fractious he seems to 
 be the more times he ought to be turned. This 
 cannot be overdone in half an hour, but will 
 only take four or five minutes with the most 
 nervous or stubborn horse, but should always 
 be done before the saddle is put on. After 
 swinging him a number of times, let go of his 
 tail, but not too quickly, for if you do he will 
 fall if he has been swung very much. Hold him 
 by the bridle, at the same time speaking loud 
 79 
 
80 HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 
 
 and sharp, saying "Whoa!" Now having a 
 horse that will stand for you, you may proceed 
 to mount. When the horse is brought to the 
 door or the most convenient place for mount- 
 ing, it is well to examine everything before you 
 mount, which will give you more confidence and 
 do away with a great deal of uneasiness in think- 
 ing whether this or that is not right, especially 
 when you are riding alone. After examining 
 everything thoroughly, take your position on the 
 left side of the horse with your right side a few 
 inches from the saddle, facing the same way as 
 the horse, with your left shoulder slightly thrown 
 back. Place the right hand on the second pom- 
 mel, holding in it the whip and reins drawn just 
 tight enough to give a feeling of the bit. Your 
 attendant should stand facing you and as close 
 as convenient, still holding the horse by the bit, 
 and must stoop forward reaching his right hand, 
 in which you will place your left foot, using 
 your left hand to raise your skirt. Now let go 
 of your skirt, rest your left hand on his shoulder, 
 and giving him the cue by bending the right 
 knee, spring up erect on the left foot and seat 
 yourself sideways on the saddle. Place the right 
 knee over the horse. If your attendant is un- 
 used to rendering such service, you had better 
 teach him by telling him just what to do, where 
 to stand, just how high to lift your foot, and cau- 
 tion him to put forth strength enought to sup- 
 
HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 8l 
 
 port you steadily without lifting too violently. Do 
 not be deterred by awkwardness on his part, or 
 on your own, from learning to mount from the 
 ground, for the more awkward the attendant 
 the better practice for you. Your attendant 
 will now adjust your skirt so that it will 
 hang properly without dragging, and then 
 disengaging the stirrup from beneath the skirt, 
 will place your left foot in it. Too much 
 care cannot be taken with the position in the 
 saddle. The left leg should invariably hang 
 from the knee with the heel depressed, and with 
 the foot parallel with the horse's side. The 
 length of the stirrup strap should be such that 
 the knee is out of contact with the hunting 
 horn, but near enough to be brought firmly up 
 against it by raising the heel. The right knee 
 should rest easily but snugly over the pommel 
 so as to grasp it in case the horse turns. Neither 
 foot should be allowed to sway above or to pro- 
 ject so as to be seen awkwardly poking out of 
 the skirt. Rise in your stirrup and allow your 
 attendant to pull your skirt straight, for it will 
 be very awkward should it become disarranged 
 on the road. Now, put your handkerchief in 
 the pocket, which ought to be on the right side 
 of your saddle. The reins may be taken in either 
 hand or in both, as you prefer, and start the 
 horse by the sound of the voice, which is best, 
 or a touch. 
 
82 HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. 
 
 A strap fastened to the cantle which comes 
 from the stirrup strap will keep the saddle 
 steady on the back of the horse, and the rider 
 can adjust it to suit her convenience. She can 
 let it out or take it up, she being independent 
 regarding this. The next thing is to get in the 
 saddle. There are many ways, but I will not try 
 to describe them all, but will give you a few of 
 the best ways that have come to my notice. 
 
 In case your horse has not been taught to 
 stand, you may take the pommel and reins in 
 your right hand, facing your saddle, and when 
 being raised take your seat and hold on to both 
 reins as soon as you have placed your knee over 
 the pommel. This will cause you to turn. 
 
 Standing on the left side of the horse facing 
 the saddle, place the right hand on the second 
 pommel, holding in it your reins drawn tight 
 enough to give a feeling of the bit, with your 
 left hand on the horse's mane, raising your left 
 foot and mounting as described in directions 
 above. This is the best method when your at- 
 tendant is inexperienced, being safer to the 
 party mounting, and comes as easy and graceful 
 as any other method of mounting. 
 
HOW TO MOUNT ASTRIDE. 
 
 First, how to get on a gentle horse. Hold 
 the reins in the left hand and hold the stirrup 
 with the right until you have placed your left 
 foot in the stirrup, then press heavily with your 
 right hand on the right side of the saddle to 
 prevent it from turning over; then spring up 
 and raise the right leg over the saddle, putting 
 your other foot in the stirrup; you have a seat 
 now that can be taken without help on any 
 gentle horse. If you have a young horse, or 
 one that cannot be trusted, then place your 
 left hand in the check of the bridle, standing 
 on the left side, facing opposite the way the 
 horse is facing; put your left foot in the stirrup 
 and swing into the saddle. If your horse wants 
 to go or buck, draw his head around and he 
 can only turn; but if he is liable to move just 
 when you are mounting, you may take the reins 
 in the left hand, taking hold of the mane, at the 
 same time with the right hand, placing the left 
 foot in the stirrup and facing in the opposite 
 direction of the horse. Raise yourself high and 
 swing the right foot over the horse's back, plac- 
 ing the right stirrup quickly. If he goes ahead, 
 you will not lose your balance but can take your 
 seat even were he to start in a dead run. 
 83 
 
CRAZY JANE. 
 
 Crazy Jane was a beautiful, dark bay mare, 
 sired by Venture, a registered horse, nine years 
 old, and running loose in the pasture. She had 
 been in the hands of many trainers, and had 
 been owned by many different men. When the 
 writer found her she was owned by a street 
 car company. Although they had an expert 
 trainer, they could do nothing with her. She 
 would stand and kick until she had cleared her- 
 self of the vehicle to which she was hitched. 
 However, the last time, when the trainer and 
 helpers tried to hitch her to harness, she turned 
 on them, chasing the four men from the stable. 
 Then she was turned out to pasture, where she 
 remained eleven months. She was sold to the 
 author for a very small sum, but he was re- 
 quired to give the street car company a writ 
 of release exonerating them from any damage 
 she might do by her viciousness as part pay- 
 ment. Crazy Jane had taken this name from 
 the fact of acting like an insane animal when 
 being handled by her trainer, but was subdued 
 in about an hour, and driven by a lady for years 
 afterward. Her taming was effected by means 
 of a cord wrapped around the head back of the 
 84 
 
CRAZY JANE. 85 
 
 ears, and in the mouth, bringing a pressure be- 
 tween the atlas and axis, or right behind the 
 first joint of the back-bone. While the mare 
 was standing like this she was handled all over, 
 blankets thrown on her, harness placed upon 
 her. tin cans rattled all around her; finally all 
 her feet being handled, she submitted. Then 
 being hitched up and driven in the heart of the 
 city without a kicking strap, check or blinds on 
 the bridle. She was sold to a Mr. Boyd, who 
 used her as a family driver. After about one 
 year's time I went to see Mr. Boyd. On enter- 
 ing his yard I found a little girl about four 
 years old playing about the mare's hind legs. 
 Calling Mr. Boyd's attention to the fact of its 
 being dangerous, he simply told me that the 
 mare would not hurt the child, for they had 
 been in the habit of being together. 
 
HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS 
 TRAINED. 
 
 Telegram had remained in the stable more 
 to be admired than used, for many months. 
 His feet had become long from want of use, 
 and it looked as though this fast and beautiful 
 horse had been laid aside as a back-number, his 
 days being over for the race track. When Tele- 
 gram had been used as a race horse, he was 
 the cause of no end of trouble for his drivers, 
 who could not get the horse to stand long 
 enough and receive orders from the judges, and, 
 as far as hitching him up, Mr. Denny Shea, the 
 owner, told me that seven men could not hitch 
 the horse up, so allowed Telegram to remain 
 standing. So far as his practical use in the city 
 was concerned, it could not be thought of, for 
 he would not stand long enough to be hitched 
 to a vehicle, and would not stop after once 
 starting until unhitched. In hitching him on 
 the race track, even this could only be done by 
 allowing him to jog along and pull the cart on 
 him, having snaps on all the harness to get him 
 hitched up. Although in this condition, he was 
 second to Flying Jib in a fast mile, and he him- 
 self had a mark of 2\\2.\. But one day Mr. 
 86 
 
HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS TRAINED. 87 
 
 Shea asked the writer if he would not try to 
 break Telegram of both habits, which was done 
 in twenty minutes, when strangers (stable men) 
 hitched Telegram to a light cart and left him 
 standing on the floor, no one holding him. This 
 was done simply by taking him by the halter 
 and tail, and turning him a number of times rap- 
 idly, letting go of the tail, saying sharply to the 
 horse "Whoa," repeating on his other side. This 
 soon taught him to brace himself when he heard 
 the word "Whoa" spoken harshly. This was 
 done in a blacksmith shop, next door to the 
 livery stable owned by Fassett & Sons, in Chi- 
 cago. Many horsemen were in the livery stable 
 hoping to see how the preacher would break 
 this horse that had outdone the best trainers in 
 America. I may say that not a few of them 
 were surprised when the writer entered the sta- 
 ble with the horse, handing him over to the 
 stable men and telling them to hitch him up, 
 for the spectators who knew the horse were say- 
 ing among themselves that they had better stop 
 that fellow, "he doesn't know what he has got 
 hold of." Many expected to see Telegram at 
 his old tricks — rearing and plunging — but he 
 was hitched up without a movement. The 
 preacher wanted the doors opened. No one 
 ventured opening the doors, for they all claimed 
 to know what would happen to the horse and 
 cart. If they opened the door he would go 
 
88 HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS TRAINED. 
 
 plunging out into the street and much damage 
 would be done. Mr. Shea had the doors opened, 
 and the men looked at each other, wondering 
 what had happened. Some said the horse was 
 "doped," others said he was mesmerized, and 
 there was much talk of hypnotism, and one col- 
 ored trainer said it was the spirits in the air. But 
 Telegram was driven successfully and stopped 
 seven times before leaving the run-way which 
 lead to the street. He was taken on the track 
 and put to all tests, and was owned and driven 
 by Mr. Frank Fowler, the bicycle manufacturer, 
 for more than two years, and driven on Chicago 
 boulevards, remaining quiet and docile. But the 
 spectators are still guessing how it was done. 
 
MR. MULLEN'S FIRST APPEARANCE IN 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 At one of the horse sales in Chicago Mr. 
 Mullen introduced himself to a number of horse- 
 men, seeking colts to break, telling them that 
 he could break anything there was in the city, 
 it mattered not how wild the animal was, he 
 would take it and tame it so as one could pick 
 up all its feet or jump on its back and ride it 
 with nothing but a halter on, hitch it to a 
 vehicle with an open bridle, and drive it about 
 without any kicking strap. Some of the men 
 at the Stock Yards in Chicago, where this con- 
 versation took place, laughed at such asser- 
 tions being made by a young man. Some said 
 he was crazy, but, however, there are always 
 some men who are not willing to judge a man 
 before he has been given a hearing, so a trial 
 was decided upon. A broncho had been run- 
 ning loose on Mr. Piper's farm at Worth, 111., 
 no one being found who could halter the horse, 
 and thus he had had liberty for eighteen months 
 or more, eating good pasture and getting fat. 
 This was considered to be a good subject for the 
 young man who made such assertions. One 
 day about noon the task was undertaken. To 
 89 
 
90 MR. MULLENS FIRST APPEARANCE IN CHICAGO. 
 
 everybody's surprise, the broncho walked into 
 a large box-stall with the writer close beside 
 him. The men gathered all about, looking 
 through cracks, knot-holes and such like, ex- 
 pecting every moment the preacher would get 
 his brains kicked out. The broncho kept walk- 
 ing round and round in the large stall, the 
 preacher following him. After many turns one 
 way, the horse was spoken to and stopped, and 
 then followed in the opposite direction, and 
 then, to everybody's surprise, the ^broncho was 
 seen standing in about the center of the stall, 
 and the trainer placing a leather halter over his 
 head. But then the broncho would not lead, 
 and the men were asking how this preacher was 
 going to get the broncho to the stable, about 
 two hundred yards distant from where he was. 
 But to the surprise of every one, at the end of a 
 long rope he drove the broncho on before him, 
 placed the formidable rope rigging and tied him 
 to a post, leaving him there while all went to 
 lunch. After lunch the broncho was worked 
 out by the head and tail system, when he sur- 
 prised every one by what had been accomplished 
 in such a short time. The broncho's feet had 
 all been handled, the author had sprung on his 
 back and shouted like an Indian, but there was 
 no more fear, harnessed him and hitched him 
 and drove out from the farm to the little town 
 of Worth and back. Then the broncho was put 
 
MR. MULLEN S FIRST APPEARANCE IN CHICAGO. 91 
 
 to work on a scraper, putting dirt on the Worth 
 race track. Although this horse had baffled 
 many, yet he was caught, halter-broken, tamed 
 and taught to work all in less than one hour. 
 
MR. MULLEN'S PUBLIC EXHIBITION IN 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 While taming vicious horses, many interest- 
 ing subjects were brought to Mr. Mullen. A 
 very fine gray horse, owned by the fire depart- 
 ment of Chicago, which had given no little 
 amount of trouble to the hor;3eshoers and was 
 known as a very vicious animal, was brought to 
 the meetings. Many of the lecal horsemen came 
 to see this animal perform, but the author, 
 wrapping the cord on the horse's head, holding 
 the halter in his hand, walked back towards the 
 horse's tail, and asked the horseshoers and 
 horsemen with what foot the horse kicked. The 
 answer was, "Either foot," but to their aston- 
 ishment, and especially of the blacksmith who 
 had to do the shoeing, the foot was picked up 
 by the author, held until he had shouted and 
 screeched, knocked and hammered on the foot 
 with a shoe, the blacksmith saying that he could 
 not do that. But when he tried he found the 
 animal made no resistance, which was a sur- 
 prise to them all. This case was enquired after 
 five months later, and the horse was found 
 to be kind and gentle. 
 92 
 
THE CALKIN'S BRONCHO. 
 
 The Calkin's broncho was a bay about thir- 
 teen years old. In an exhibition, the writer 
 offered $25 if any man in Chicago would put a 
 halter on the same broncho's head and jump on 
 his back. Although many hundred horsemen 
 were present, there was no offer made by any 
 one to accept. The pen in which the broncho 
 was had an iron wall at one side. This the 
 broncho kicked a hole in. By the use of an old 
 horse, as stated in "How to Break Colts," the 
 broncho was haltered and taken out of the pen, 
 and first subjected to the pull-back rigging. He 
 proved to be a very interesting character. He 
 would strike, kick or bite at any one who came 
 near him, and yet, with the front hobbles, he 
 was reduced to a state of subjection so he would 
 allow a person to jump on his back, but by no 
 means was he tamed. His treatment was re- 
 peated the second night by "the head and tail" 
 system, followed by laying him down, that is, 
 strapping up one front leg, drawing the head 
 back to the side and throwing him down; yet 
 he was only subdued for the time being. This, 
 indeed, proved to be the most stubborn case the 
 author has ever seen. He was handled the third 
 93 
 
94 THE CALKIN S BRONCHO. 
 
 time before the public, this time with the hind 
 hobbles, having his hind feet hobbled very short. 
 He proved to be still more vicious than any one 
 had any idea of. A blanket being brought and 
 shaken about him, merely to show him that no 
 one would hurt him, he snatched it with his 
 mouth, holding it between his teeth, and shook 
 it as a terrier would a rat. But having a sack 
 filled with straw, the author would strike him, 
 not hard, merely to draw his attention, follow 
 him with the blanket and sack and finally he 
 was subjected. Although not being put to hard 
 work, he became kind. The last time the author 
 saw him, a sixteen-year-old boy harnessed, 
 hitched and drove him. 
 
 In these public exhibitions the preacher raised 
 several bronchos by the hocks in less than half 
 an hour after he began to work on them, al- 
 though they had never been handled before, not 
 even as much as halter-broken, and drove suc- 
 cessfully every horse that was brought to him 
 by the public in the fall of 1900. 
 
HORSE AND HOLINESS. 
 
 Evangelist Mullen Promises His Hearers a Sight 
 and Gives Also an Insight. 
 
 "Now, my friends, you have seen how easy it 
 is to handle and humble and bring to a state of 
 repentance even this vicious and heretofore un- 
 manageable horse, will you be more obdurate 
 when I try to lead you in the way of light?" 
 
 Broad-shouldered and brawny, with a chest 
 as thick and sold as an ice chest, his dark, fleshy 
 face lit up by a cheerful smile, Evangelist Wil- 
 liam Mullen, who came to Colorado recently 
 from the Moody Bible Institute at Chicago, 
 turns from horse training to holiness in gne time 
 and two motions. 
 
 Evangelist Mullen's method of attracting 
 crowds to his open air meetings is certainly 
 unique. He advertises that on a certain vacant 
 lot in the town or city in which he happens to 
 be he will show how the most unruly horse may 
 be trained and made docile so that his feet may 
 be handled and shod without a struggle. When 
 he has conquered the horse, Mr. Mullen begins 
 and expounds the gospel. 
 95 
 
96 HORSE AND HOLINESS. 
 
 "I was born in Newcastle-on-Tyne, England, 
 33 years ago," said Mr. Mullen, "and I've de- 
 voted nearly my whole life to horse training. 
 During recent years, however, I have done evan- 
 gelistic work in connection with horse train- 
 ing." 
 
 Mr. Mullen sometimes, in order to pay his 
 expenses, forms a class in horse training and 
 demonstrates his system of conquering a horse. 
 Over at Ouray, he says, he overcame the vic- 
 ious tendencies of a horse thirteen years old, 
 and made it as gentle as a lamb. He wants 
 anybody who has a vicious horse to bring him 
 to one of the open-air meetings and see how 
 easily the animal can be brought to time. 
 
 Mr. Mullen preaches tomorrow night in the 
 open air near the South Park Congregational 
 Church. Before the religious services are com- 
 menced he will wrestle with the most intract- 
 able beast that is brought to him. — Denver 
 Daily News. 
 
COW BOY RELIGION IN CHICAGO. 
 
 Illustrated by Taming Broncos to Amuse the 
 Congregation. 
 
 Chicago, Oct. 14. — "Instead of leading in the 
 sraging of 'Heaven Is My Home' I will now 
 tame Flying Devil, a vicious bronco owned by 
 Brother Smith." 
 
 This is the way Evangelist William Mullen, 
 who has come to Chicago to point out the 
 errors of the ways pursued by residents, begins 
 his meetings. The Rev. Mr. Mullen combines 
 the art of busting broncos with that of saving 
 wayward souls. He says religion nowadays has 
 to have some side attraction, and the large 
 crowds that he draws lead the conclusion that 
 he is right. 
 
 He holds his meetings in the open air, in 
 places that give him ample scope for his eques- 
 trian exhibitions. When he appears upon the 
 platform that is his pulpit, he is not a very min- 
 isterial looking figure. He wears a cordurov 
 coat, a sombrero and high-heeled boots. 
 
 The evangelist offers a prayer, then takes off 
 his coat. A bronco is led up in front of the 
 97 
 
98 COW BOY RELIGION IN CHICAGO. 
 
 space reserved for the anxious bench, and the 
 audience is immediately interested. When the 
 wild horse is tamed and the owner has paid the 
 small fee which is the only collection taken up, 
 the bronco-busting evangelist puts on his coat, 
 wipes his heated brow with his handkerchief and 
 says his topic will be "Going to Hell at a 2:20 
 Gait." 
 
 He has a keen eye and a pleasant face, and 
 when he opens the Bible to read a few verses 
 of Scripture there is not a person in the audi- 
 ence who has the hardihood to walk away before 
 the sermon. There is something in the preacher's 
 manner that forbids any trifling. His exhibition 
 of what he can do with a horse has caused people 
 to respect him. Mullen was formerly a cowboy. 
 He attended one of Moody's meetings while in 
 the East and became converted. He came to 
 Chicago and after a course of instruction at the 
 Moody Bible Institute, he began to preach. But 
 he found that men and women are not eager to 
 hear sermons. Advertisements of texts, no mat- 
 ter how sensational they happen to be, did not 
 draw crowds. It was necessary to add some hu- 
 man interest outside of that of soul saving, and 
 the horse-taming plan suggested itself. It has 
 proved successful and it is Mr. Mullen's theory 
 that ministers who desire to gain a large hear- 
 ing should provide some good attraction to draw 
 those who need converting. — New York Sun. 
 
PRESS EXTRACTS. 
 
 William Mullen, the horse trainer-evangelist 
 who has been giving daily exhibitions of horse- 
 breaking on the lake front, has attracted the 
 attention of a great many local horsemen, and 
 has successfully subdued a number of very bad 
 horses. His methods do not differ materially 
 from those employed by other horse trainers, 
 except that he does not handle them quite so 
 roughly and depends more on kindness to ac- 
 complish his purpose. He uses a special har- 
 ness of ropes and straps that enables him to 
 throw the horse to his knees whenever he fights 
 too hard, and that is practically the same sys- 
 tem that has been employed by many others. 
 
 Last Thursday he tackled a very badly spoiled 
 horse belonging to Joe Hartford, of the firm of 
 Hartford & Hall. The horse was a seven-year- 
 old gelding that came from the Haggin ranch 
 in California, and he had whipped half the horse- 
 breakers in this city. He would fight from the 
 minute he was hooked up until there was noth- 
 ing left of the cart or harness, and would strike, 
 kick, rear and plunge and throw himself time 
 and again until he was free. It took Rev. Mr. 
 Mullen just twenty minutes to make a lady's 
 horse out of him, and when he finally got him 
 
 99 
 LofC. 
 
100 PRESS EXTRACTS. 
 
 subdued he tied the horse's tail to the crossbar 
 of the cart, took off the breeching and tugs 
 and drove him with nothing on his head but a 
 halter, and before he got through with him he 
 made him stand hooked up, perfectly still, while 
 he preached a sermon to the crowd out of the 
 cart. Horsemen who have watched Mullen 
 every day say that he has more control over 
 horses than the great horse trainer, Gleason, the 
 man who has the reputation of being the 
 greatest in the world. — Murray Howe, in Chi- 
 cago Times-Herald. 
 
 Wm. Mullen, the horse-trainer evangelist, ac- 
 companied by his wife and two children, arrived 
 in Holdrege last Saturday morning and has 
 since given exhibitions in horse training on the 
 streets, preaching the gospel during the entire 
 performance. Mullen is of Scotch-Irish parent- 
 age and a native of England. Though a man 
 weighing over 200 pounds, he was for a number 
 of years engaged in horse training in California, 
 at which he became an expert. He became con- 
 verted some years ago, however, later felt a call 
 to preach and with that idea in view he went to 
 Chicago and took a course at the Moody Insti- 
 tute. Since that time he has traveled and 
 preached, breaking horses the while as a source 
 of livelihood and as a means of advertising. Mr. 
 Mullen gave an exhibition at the corner of East 
 
C/3 O 
 
 Oh X 
 
 W X 
 O 
 
PRESS EXTRACTS. 101 
 
 avenue and Haydon street Monday evening, tak- 
 ing a horse unbroke to ride, and within a half or 
 three-quarters of an hour had the horse so com- 
 pletely under his control that he could ride him 
 about the street with merely a halter. He gave 
 another exhibition Tuesday night on the ball 
 diamond, where he will also give another next 
 Saturday afternoon. He spoke at the Baptist 
 church Wednesday evening. He will leave here 
 next Monday. — Holdrege, Neb., Progress. 
 
 Evangelist Mullen gave exhibitions of horse 
 training again yesterday on Haymarket square. 
 In the evening he broke a wild Indian mustang 
 from the West Lincoln Stock Yards. The pony 
 made lots of fun for the crowd, but it finally 
 gave up and the evangelist handled it as if it 
 were a kitten. In the afternoon a black mare 
 that had achieved some fame as a kicker was 
 taken in hand. She was refractory, but the 
 evangelist made speedy progress. He rode the 
 animal with a halter for a bridle and drove her 
 but the harness broke and all the work was 
 spoiled by another exhibition of kicking. The 
 animal will be taken in hand this afternoon 
 and the job finished. At the afternoon gather- 
 ing Mr. Mullen spoke at length of his life and 
 conversion. He will give only one exhibition 
 of horse breaking today, lasting from 3 to 6 
 o'clock. — Nebraska State Journal. 
 
102 PRESS EXTRACTS. 
 
 In his street displays Mr. Mullen does not 
 supply himself with a paddock or an extra 
 horse, but subdues the "subject" simply with 
 his formidable rope rigging. It is not his plan, 
 he says, to tire the horse out or to inflict any 
 pain upon it, but simply to show the animal 
 that man is its master. In the South Omaha 
 pen before a crowd of drovers and stockmen, 
 most critical of judges, Mr. Mullen subdued the 
 wildest mustang in the yards, and even went so 
 far as to lift the animal's rear parts from the 
 ground by the hocks. Physically, the trainer- 
 preacher is a giant and looks perfectly capable 
 of overpowering a broncho in a hand-to-hand 
 struggle. He weighs 200 pounds and was en- 
 gaged in training horses before he entered the 
 Moody Institute in Chicago. — Omaha, Neb., 
 Daily Bee. 
 
 Prof. Wm. Mullen, of Chicago, gave an inter- 
 esting exhibition of colt breaking last Saturday 
 afternoon opposite the Reporter office, taking a 
 "green" colt and breaking it to harness in ten 
 minutes' time, bringing the youngster under 
 such perfect control that he could lift both its 
 hind feet with his hands at once without a pro- 
 test from it and drive it about the yard as he 
 pleased. He is evidently an expert in the horse 
 training line. — Coldwater, Mich., Reporter. 
 
ABOUT FILLING A STABLE. 
 
 HOW THE TRAINER WHO CAN HARDLY WORK MORE THAN 
 FOUR HORSES NOW USED TO PUT A FEATHER EDGE ON 
 FORTY. 
 
 IT'S gettin' so nowadays/' said Jimmy, "that 
 a teamster can't work but two hours an' a 
 half a day without gettin' sunstruck or 
 frost-bitten. It's dead easy for me to re- 
 member when every one of them guys used to 
 earn what they got. Nowadays they ain't one 
 in a million earns the pie an' ice cream he throws 
 into his face. They want to ride just two hours 
 an' a half an' put in the rest of the day tellin' 
 the owner just why no teamster can't train but 
 four hosses an' do 'em justice. Ten years ago 
 every one of them boys could train forty head 
 an' do it easy.'' 
 
 "There must be some truth in that," said 
 the Owner. "They tell me that during the time 
 that Independence, la., was the trotting horse 
 Mecca, some of the trainers located out there 
 used to train fully that many." 
 
 "I wonder if they didn't," replied Jimmy. 
 "Hussey will tell you himself that him and 
 104 
 
STABLE CONVERSATION. I0 5 
 
 Charley Thompson, an' McHenry, an' Terbush, 
 an' a lot more used to train forty head before 
 breakfast. Them was the days when any good 
 teamster would bet you even money that he 
 could train 200 head, an' train 'em to a finish, 
 at $2.50 per day. In '91 it was me workin' for 
 Saunders over at Cleveland when a bunch blew 
 in that was headed for Williamsville, an' I made 
 an entry. Every boy in the biz was headed that 
 way. It was worse than Cripple Creek or the 
 Klondike. 
 
 "I passed up a right good office, but I says 
 to Red Kennedy, 'Red,' I says, T can live 
 through the summer if I don't see that kite 
 track, but they say there's a lot of that Axtell 
 money floatin' around that Iowa country that's 
 easy to get.' I signed with McHenry soon as 
 I unloaded. Mac has five barns full of racers 
 an' more comin' on every train. Thompson has 
 just as many, an' Williams, an' Hussey, an' the 
 rest of the top jocks has about eighty apiece. 
 
 "They all had so many hosses that when a 
 sucker writes in an' wants one trained they try 
 to stop him by tellin' him the price is three 
 bucks a day, owner to furnish water, feed, swipe 
 an' boots with the hoss. That didn't stop 'em. 
 Every morning McHenry gets up an' asks a 
 clerk how many come in durin' the night. He 
 keeps tags on' em all, so he can tell one from 
 
I0 6 STABLE CONVERSATION. 
 
 another, an' when a hoss loses his tag he has to 
 join the unknown string. 
 
 "George Eggleson was second jock, an' he 
 has ten helpers to work them that couldn't get 
 around the track before dinner. Thompson an' 
 Terbush had a lot of overflow hosses out in the 
 sheds, an' one mornin' Thompson is just gettin' 
 up behind a hoss when Terbush commences to 
 holler, 'You've got one of mine,' he says. 'You're 
 another,' says Thompson; 'this hoss is one I've 
 had a week.' 'I've had him a month,' says Ter- 
 bush, 'an' if you don't put him back in that stall 
 I'll have you pinched,' he says. 'You're out of 
 your mind,' says Thompson, 'an' if you'll step 
 over here an' look at his tag I'll prove it to you.' 
 Then they look at his tag an' found he didn't be- 
 long to either one of 'em. 
 
 "Nowadays if them trainers had strings like 
 that some of the hosses wouldn't get worked 
 once a month, but in them days they got up in 
 the mornin' and honed 'em all. All of 'em made 
 money an' earned every cent of it. The graft 
 was good every day in the year, but the velvet 
 harvest was the tin-cup meetin' every fall, when 
 the wise teamsters charged twenty-five bucks 
 for drivin' a hoss against the clock. McHenry 
 hired hisself out to sight so many of 'em that 
 they kept 'em waitin' in a string a mile long, an' 
 a couple of husky blanket carriers picked him 
 
ABOUT FILLING A STABLE. 
 
 I07 
 
 up an' throwed him from sulky into another at 
 the finish of every heat, just like they used to 
 toss Nelly Burk from one saddle to another 
 when she was ridin' a fifty-mile race.'' 
 
 "I suppose you had to take care of more 
 than one horse in those days," remarked the 
 Owner. 
 
 "Not in fly time," replied Jimmy, "but I 
 took care of thirty head once in the winter 
 time." 
 
 "Thirty head! How could you do it?" 
 
 "Well, Sundays I fed 'em hay, Mondays I 
 fed 'em oats, Tuesdays I watered 'em, Wednes- 
 days I cleaned out the stalls, Thursdays I fed 
 'em bran, Fridays I counted 'em to see if they 
 was all there, and Saturdays I rested up for the 
 next week. Everybody had to hustle in them 
 days, but it's gettin' so lately that nobody is 
 strong enough to put in more than half time." 
 From Stable Conversation. By Permission 
 of The Horse Review Co., Chicago. 
 
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fiave You a Copy of our General 
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> R 3 - tS5t 
 
&pt 7 U>01 
 
MAY 8 1901 
 


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