Class Book COPMIIGHT DEPOSIT / a^ / I OF An Illustrated Guide Marblehead^ Salem ^ ^Peabody, (Beverly^ Manchester =hy=the=Sea^ Magnolia, Gloucester ^ ('kockport^ and Ipswich. By Benj. D. Hill and Winfield S. Nevins. SALEM NECK. MESSRS. DAVIS & FAY of the Essex House, Salem, have leased this house for the season. This is the pleasautest resort in this sectiou. The Spacious Dancing Hall will be open afternoon and evening. The Restaurant will be pro- vided with the best the market affords. 9 SALEM, MASS. EverytMng First-class. Ilovffe Cars for Peahody and Beverbj j^ass the door. RATES— $2 TO $3 PER DAY. K\^ i\ i:?»MK!i'«ai»r,wwrT:fl .- ■'-~- .v.ji.v,i,t;;,4ip„.*.„*-.«,fT.r„,.„ ...f,,. V. / the Boston Eve fTi n g TRAVELLER .^ • !5 . In its columns may be found a tf the news of the day. For Sale by ^ , , all Dealers. ..!IM^ Price^^J^ ^ 3e^ Delivered afyouf^ residence for 75 c. per month. A ^ FRANK COUSINS' Bee-Him, 172 Essex 8 W ^■-(pj /■ r /■ /- /■ /• ^^>::: COT TO MS, TICKIjyGS, DEMIMS. Ladies', Gents', & Children's Underwear, FRANK "COUSFNS' No. 172 ESSEX STREET, SALEM, MASS. irnitN*^ If (M!|Jt S^llMWI*^lway'\ iiHrtQj^ett^ parjoi ind lm\i }}efl care mora 11]) J(JeH»it(iniit iiiiaaf Icr (ekinathebt I liiupbuinef* in >orope, i«''Tfc08e ruaAf ui^iiurica we havt fiy«i^^li( t potjtucs in Japan and S^aiLijef '^ ami Prtr< Wii** to )>emou»t- a« 1 M adipiod the otBen I 1 dem Neck and Willows. Time T»We, en ani .iff Jaae-U^lS^. VERY DAY Low Co'-t Colorefcl Dinner S^ts t€5"f Diuiltoji ,y^viiul » Inn tP I 11 lite ————— loiijtw) W^iIgHOpd ^I'"^ s -lie Mot suip»«^ dnjalt / '^.^i for Peabody |;..-fi.)ll, T.tm, 7.--l>, 7.4M, i,9r_ Suiidii.vs Cais will 1 ■qinocn J9d 'o g^ joj aoaapisg'g -jno/C IB p9a8Ai|9(]; 2 8 yfq 9|BS -loj •AiBp ^^} JO sman aq^ IT'B pnnoj gq il'Bra 8nnin|oo sji nj U3l13AVUi Su I U8A3 uo^sog am ^r rT SJLEM Dr A S Dudley 7//s^ r/r/ss ]fr;,/, Dr Geo A. Ewell Warranfen wmwmmmmmi OirR RUFOn.tlKI) I'RI Twill, for .•iicli Ttidtli, with use of frpo?,iiie process. •25 ct». 50 CU $101 Gold Fillings, from *1. 00 to *20, according to circun Terms Cash and No Trust. % I! •ss^M 'meiBS 'leoJis xassg Ifit '.loc^oLido.ij '[^[CII H Nl/Wa^ •02? ''osy 'sSnipino]^ 'soopisQ 'sjapiog '_ '^ tptM 'tnojj loejas oi'suje^ -Itid jnajOHip 008 -'Sao AinnoQ xassg ni gJiooif SnadYJ KOQH. •025 'ojj 'sa^rif 's^Jjjex r ' | 'sno^ejo 'spoo-D jCje^eioqdn 'septus Mopni^ 's^eSSnacj .;tld-8 'spssmg ^nsed^j, 'siasst^a ipoa ....im..wii..vK wv..,.uH,iv I'uv q-.lS-J J" W'WQ > «ifa W. C. PACKARD & CO, )£/^i2Cq with an entire new stock of FURNITURE AND-; m^ Our new warerooms are the largest in Essex County, cov- ering upwards of 13,000 square feet of floor room. Parlor, Chamber, Library, Hall, AND MffilM©-ECI©ai PCBMIICBI. H^^ To large buyers, or parties about furnishing Summer Hotels or Houses, we can make it for your advantage to learn our prices and examine our im- mense stock. Cottage and Lawn Furniture^ in great variety. 281 Essex, and 1, 3, 5 & 7 Crombie Streets, INTRODUCTORY When Roger Conaiit, that observing pioneer, sailed along the Cape shore from Gloucester to the mouth of the Naumkeag river, he saw the coast was one of no common beauty. To his penetrating glance was revealed a land- scape of fresh and charming lines, — the foreground a pic- turesque coast, the distance filled by undulating hills that lay soft hidden in the blue of a bright summer morning. Conant was delighted. Seeking a spot where religion should be as free as the air around, could he do better than to plant a colony where every influence of nature seconded his pious purpose ? Intolerance and bigotry could hardly find place where every idling wind placed its veto on slavery to anything. Conant needed no second thought, and with the readiness of a man who appreciates, he at once moved a portion of his little colony to the mouth of the Naumkeag. What Roger Conant gloried in two hundred and fifty years ago, strikes the observer to-day with the same gentle force ; whether he sails along the coast, or travels the cen- tre of the Cape by the Eastern railway to Salem, Marble- head, and Beverly haibors, acres of tiny forests, little villas like diamonds in rich natural settings, broad and undulating fields, glimpses of the sea, each and all contrib- ute to paint a picture for the traveler that can scarce fade from his memory. From Newport to Portland a more dainty bit of natural beauty it would be hard to find. And visitors to the north 4 INTBOI?irCTOIlY. shore of Massachusetts hay, let them come when they may, never leave it without the resolve to return. How charm- ingly Higginson has written of it in his Oldport Days, and yet the immortality conferred on it there has not made it known to the large mass of readers ; for Higginson wrote as a poet, and the practical part, the unpoetical part of this life, is wanting. Had he supplied this, no special pleading for our heloved cape would have been needed. And while we do not presume to place ourselves on a level with that distinguished Avriter, we trust the work we submit to the public in all modesty, may fill their needs, and satisfy their thirst for knowledge. Woven with a description of the localities the reader will find the more interesting events of their histories, and, while not overlooking the needs and certain aims of a guide book, we have endeav- ored to obliterate as much as possible the dry matter-of- factness of such productions. Preface to Fourth Edition. This work was first issued in May, 1879 ; a second edition w^as issued the same season, and a third edition in May, 1880. We now submit the fourth edition. The work has been substantially re- written for this edition, and with each issue our endeavor has been to correct, revise, and improve. The map which accompanies the book this year, and for which w^e are in- debted to Mr. Lucius Tuttle of the Eastern railway, will be found a great improvement over that of 1880. Salem, May, 1881. Copyright by Benjamin D. Hill and Winfield S. Nevins, in the Libi-ary of Congress, Washington. D. C. Haskell & Lougee, Manufacturers and Dealers in I FUKHITU: OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. ^ ^ ^y-. Invite the public to call and examine their large stock. We keep a large variety of goods on hand all the time, or ^Adll manufacture to order. In all its branches done with neatness and despatch. NOS. 259 S, 261 ESSEX STREET, SALEM, MASS. Merrill & Mackintire, 170 Essex, cor. St. Peter St., AND In our Room Paper Department we have upwards of 100,000 Eolls with fine Freizes and Borders to match. NOTE PAPERS AUD EHVELOPES, FKENCII, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN WRITING- PAPERS. Wc make a specialty of these, and you can always find on our counters the newest and choicest designs that the market affords. ilLli I liSlllflEl, Wholesale and Retail Stationers, 170 Essex St., cor. St. Peter Street, SALEM, MASS. MAEBLEHEAU. Its Histoey — Old Landmarks— Clifton IIul^i^ — The ISeck. As the reader of tbis book turns over leaf after leaf and recurs to the brief historical sketches of the towns along the North Shore, he will note one peculiar fact in connection with each, and one common to all. It is this: These towns which are now popular summer resorts for the wealthy people of Boston and elsewhere, were once fishing ports and the abodes of that humble yeomanry who fight the battle of life amid greater perils than those which surround the soldier himself. Especially is this true of Marblehead. This old town has a romantic history, and even to this day there is a tinge of romance surrounding its every day life as there is of pictu- resqueness overshadowing it topographically, It was deeded to the white men by the Indians in 1684, for the sum of £14, 13s. It was incorporated on May 2, 1649, as " Marble Harbor," and is, therefore, one of the oldest towns in New England. Previous to this it formed a part of Salem. Very little fishing is now done by its citizens, the principal industries being market-gardening, and the manufacture of boots and shoes. Marblehead is a grand old town, and has a record for devotion to the cause of liberty, of patriotism, and of courage unsurpassed in history. The following interesting descrip- tion of some objects of interest is from " Old Naumkeag" : '' One of the curiosities of the village is its crooked, mean- dering streets. The town was evidently settled without regard to streets or boundary lines, each settler locating on some ledge or rise of ground, wherever he pleased. Marblehead is rich in landmarks of the past. There is the Mugford monu- ment on Pleasant street near the Eastern depot; the Soldiers' 8 MARBLEHEAD. and Sailors' monument on Mugford street; tlie old Nortli church, rich in historic associations; St. Michael's church, built in 1714, still in a good state of preservation, and serving the Episcopalians of Marblehead as a place of worship, and whose second pastor, the Rev. David Mosson, subsequently moving to Virginia, had the distinguished honor of marrying George Washington and Mrs. Martha Custis. Also, the town house, built in 1727, on the spot where the " gaol and cage'' once stood ; the old powder house; parson Barnard's old resi- dence, built in 1720; the house in which Elbridge Gerry was born; the birthplace and early home of Judge Story; the early home of good old parson Holyoke who left Marblehead to take charge of Harvard college and win fresh laurels; the old burial ground with its quaint tomb-stones bearing the oddest of inscriptions. Then there is the famous old Lee house, built by Hon. Jeremiah Lee at a cost of £10,000. It was magnificently finished and some remains of its former grandeur may be seen to-day in its spacious hall, carved wainscotings and beautiful historic paper hangings. Towering above all these monuments of the past is the new Abbot Hall, a bequest from a generous native of the town, Benjamin Abbot. Mr. Abbot's bequest amounted to oyer .$100,000, and the hall cost $75,000. The sum of 820,000 was set apart for a public library and reading room, of which strangers may enjoy all privileges by depositing .$3 as security." In the Abbot Hall reading room are several paintings of unusual merit, especially the famous "Yankee Doodle," and in the main hall one of Mr. Abbot. On the outskirts of the village is the Devereux mansion, where Longfellow wrote, in 1849, "Fire of Driftwood" : •' We sat within the farm-house old, Whose windows looking o'er tlie bay, Gave to the sea-breeze, damp and cold, An easy entrance night and day. Not far away Ave saw tlie port. The strange, old fashioned, silent town, The lighthouse, the dismantled fort, The wooden houses, quaint and broAvn. MARBLEHEAD. 9 The windows, rattling in their frames, Tlie ocean roaring up tlie beach, The gusty blast, the bickering flames, All mingled with our speech." As a summer resort, Marblehead lias no superior on the Atlantic coast. Its bold and rocky shores extending far out into the open sea, its cool, pure and invigorating air, its irreg- ular cliffs, its green fields, its beautiful slopes and its pleasant roads, make it a delightful retreat for such as seek genuine rest and recreation. The peninsula known as Marblehead Great Neck is one and a quarter miles in length, and about a half a mile in width at the widest point. Just before the first gun of the Revolution was fired a company of "British regulars" was stationed on its heights to overawe the people of the town and to compel compliance with the restrictions which the British government was attempting to enforce. But although the place was cool and airy, the Marblehead boys who afterward composed the "amphibious regiment" of Col. Glover made it so uncomfort- ably warm for them that they soon deemed it expedient to evacuate. The Neck is connected with the main land by a narrow isthmus, along which the sea itself has constructed one of the firmest fotuidations for a higliway by washing up a vast line of boulders. In a storm the sea beats upon the ocean side with tremendous force. There can hardly be conceived a grander sight than is witnessed on this neck when a south- easter gets at work in earnest. The ledges exposed to the ocean are high, and in several places channels have been worn, into which the water is driven in storms withsucli tremendous force as to throw the spray often more than one hundred feet into the air. The Neck is bounded on the one side by Massa- chusetts bay and on the other side by Marblehead harbor, and comprises every variety of shore. The harbor, on the northwesterly side, between the Neck and the village, is a half mile wide and is one of the best yacht harbors on the coast. This fact has brought many yachtsmen here to live and made the Neck the headquarters of the Eastern yacht club, which built a club-house here during 10 MARBLEHEAD. 1880. The view across the harbor is charming by day or night. The quaint old town on its eternal foundation is the extreme of picturesque, and reminds one of some ancient Italian villa nestling on the banks of the Mediterranean and backed by bold bluffs surmounted by a noble castle of the days of yore. There too, are those sombre old Marblehead wharves, as solid as the foundation on which stands the town. There, also, to the eastward, is Peach's point, and on one side of it Fort Sew- all, still maintained as a fortification under the care of a gentlemanly sergeant. The view along the coast and out to sea is grand in the extreme, taking in a full sweep of the ocean. On the harbor side are Beverly, Manchester-by-the-Sea, and Gloucester, with their variations of beach, bluff, and sloping bank, the light-houses on Thatcher's island, and Eastern point, ■while as the eye sweeps to the south it rests on Hospital point, and Baker's island, Marblehead Neck light itself. Egg rock, and Miuot's ledge lights, and the outer lights of Boston har- bor. Swampscott, Lynn, and Nahant fade away to the west and south into the dimly seen South Shore. The bathing facilities are very good, although there is no high rolling surf. As for fishing, the sea perch may be caught from almost any point on the shore, and cod and other large fish by rowing a short distance. The drives both on the Neck and about the town generally, are very fine. A splendid high- way encircles the entire territory of the Neck, affording one of the grandest drives on the New^ England coast. On the main land the roads through Marblehead, Swampscott, Lynn, Na- hant, along Atlantic avenue. Ocean street, and Nahant beach can hardly be surpassed in attractiveness. In the other direc- tion the drives to Salem, where all its historic points may be visited, thence along the Beverly and Cape Ann shore, are equally pleasant. Marblehead Neck, as a summer resort, is of about twenty years' growth, attention having been called to its exceptionally favorable location for health, seclusion and comfort about 1860. No great amount of building was done during the next ten years, only a few small cottages being erected each year. Mrs. E. D. Kimball of Salem was the first to erect a large resi- dence, about 1873, and since then there has been a steady improvement in the character of the cottages. The growth MARBLEHEAD. 11 of the settlement lias been remarkably rapid during tbe last four or five years. Finely made roads lead around and across the Neck ; tbe lots are laid out on a liberal scale and the shore is reserved to public uses ; no purchaser of shore lots having control of the immediate beaches or cliffs. The greater part of the land formerly belonged to the estate of the late Ephraim Brown, and the remainder to Isaac C. Wyman, Esq., who is now one of the trustees of the Brown property, together with Hon. William D. Northend and George F. Flint, Esq. For some time the sale of building sites and the settlement of the place was suspended on account of disputed claims. But full settle- ment of all controversies was made in 1878, and under the energetic management of the trustees named, sales of building lots to the amount of more than $100,000 have been made since October, 1877. Many of the best lots still remain in the market and may be purchased at rates within the means of the average summer resident at the sea-shore. It has been and is the desire of the trustees that the estate be sold in good sized lots, so that the place may not become too crowded for comfort ; but smaller lots are sold in particular sections. The distance from the entrance upon the Neck to Devereux station on the Swampscott branch railway is about three-quarters of a mile. Barges connect with all the trains during th(i summer months, and Capt. E. A. Pitman runs a fine new steamer from the village across the harbor almost hourly, and in connection' with all trains to and from Boston and Salem. Trains run to Lynn and Boston over the Swamp- scott branch and to Salem and points beyond via the Mar- blehead branch, at frequent intervals; special Marblehead express trains being run to and from Boston. There are a large number of never failing springs of the purest water on the Neck. Ice, milk, vegetables and provisions of all kinds are supplied daily from wagons from the town. The team of I. P. Harris & Co. of Salem visits Marblehead and the Neck daily with every variety of groceries, so that residents can obtain all these supplies without visiting the store at all, and rely upon a prompt attendance to every order. These facilities are among the most attractive of such summer resorts, relieving people of one otherwise unpleasant feature. 12 MARBLEHEAD. Tlio residents have erected a pretty ball or chapel where social gatherings, amusements, and Sunday services find a conunon temple. Among the more costly residences are those of Thomas Appleton, W. G. Barker, Mrs. Edward D. Kimball, Edgar Harding, Charles O. Foster, John B. Brown, and W. H. Sweet, the latter costing some $10,000, and one of the finest on the coast. One of the finest buildings here is the East- ern yacht club house on the harbor side. It is somewhat of the Elizabethean style and painted bright red. As we leave the Neck we turn to the left and drive along Atlantic avenue, which leads to Swampscott and Lynn. The Clifton House is on this avenue near the Swampscott line. CLIFTON IIOUSK. This is one of the oldest summer resorts on the North Shore and in many respects has few equals. The location is peculiar- ly favorable, combining both rocky cliffs and bathing beaches in front, while broad, sloping lawns surround the house on all sides. Connected with the establishment is one of the best farms in Essex county, and all under the management of the proprietor, Mr. Benj. P. Ware, the president of the Essex County Agricultural society; so that fresh fruit, vegetables and milk, the latter from a herd of premium Ayrshires, are con- stantly at hand. Billiard room, bowling alley, and croquet grounds make up the complement, The stairways and halls SALEM. 13 have been much improved daring the past year, and other ben- elicial changes have been made. The view from the piazza of the Clifton is unusually fine, for it overlooks nearly all of Massachusetts bay enlivened by the numerous shipping passing to and from Boston harbor, and also ii view of four light-houses. The shores of Nahant, Nanlasket and Cohasset are visible, and the various islands of the bay, present, under certain atmospheric conditions, won- derful and beautiful mirage effects resembling the palisades on the Hudson. A particularly interesting feature near the Clifton House, is "gun rock," a singular crevice four feet wide and ten feet deep, extending fifty feet into the rock, through which the waves are forced at times, spouting some sixty feet hiijh. Mr. Ware's post office and telegraphic address is Beach Bluff, Mass. On the Salem side of the town are the residences of the Crowninshields, Hon. J J. H. Gregory, and Mr. Ringe, the hitter built in 1881. SALEM. A Condensed Guide to the City.— Places and Events Connected avitii the Witchcraft Eka.— Public Buildings and Places. — Business Houses. Witchcraft. The first inquiry of the tourist on arriving at Salem is for the localities and objects connected with the witchcraft fanaticism. This delusion did not originate in Salem as some people seem to think. As early as 1485, forty- one aged women were burnt in Burlia on similar charges. One inquisition in Piedmont condemned one hundred persons, and in Ravensburg 48; five hundred were executed in Geneva in 1.515. There is some authority for saying that witchcraft was a bugbear as early as 1200, and Demonology is almost as old as 14 SALEM. the human race. English history, from tlie time of Henry VIII- down to 1712, is filled with accounts of trials and execu- tions for alleged witchcraft manifestations. As late as 1645, ninety persons were hanged under these charges, and previous to that time the usual punishment was burning. Chief Justice Holt was the first judge to protect the accused, and from that moment the superstition declined * Nor was Salem the first town in the new world where a belief in the superstition took root, for cases occurred in Charlestown and Boston as early as 1648 and 1688. The records of the court at Salem show that from 1652 to 1692 numbers of persons were charged in one. form and another with being bewitched. Most of the trials, convictions and executions took place in 1692. There is far more reason for saying that the men who prepared and con- ducted these infamous proceedings were possessed of the devil, than that their innocent victims were. Neither science, nor theology, nor history, nor "the best light they had in those days," can excuse or palliate the infamy. It was downright fiendishness, in proof of which look at the method of packing the court and conducting the trials. Among the places of note to be visited in this connection are the following: The Old Jail, which stood where Abner C. Goodell's residence now stands on Federal street near St. Peter. Many of the accused were confined here while awaiting a trial which was a mockery, and after trial, while awaiting murder under the forms of law. Some works have stated that Giles Corey was crushed to death here, but Upham says the brutal affair took place in a field. The Witch House, so-called, corner Essex and North streets, and sometimes designated the Roger Williams house, and sometimes the Curwin house, was occupied by Williams about 1635. Subsequently it became the property of Judge Curwin. This building obtains its notoriety from the oft repeated assertions that the witch trials occurred here, but they did not. They were held in the court house, on what is now Washington street. It is quite well settled, however, that many of the preliminary examinations of accused persons were held here. The fact that Roger * Pop. Hist. U. S., p. 45, 2-5. SALEM. 15 Williams lived in tins house is sufficient to render it an object of interest to every one. It is now occupied by a drugciist. Witch Hill, or Gallows Hill, as it is often called, is one mile from the centre of the town and may be reached by horse cars, up Essex street to Nichols. On this hill, eighteen or nineteen persons were judicially murdered to satisfy the whims of a few puritan fanatics, for whom there is no more justification than for the authors of the Spanish inquisition, or the tools of Bloody Mary. Bridget Bishop was executed on June 10; Rebecca Nurse, Sarah Goode and probably three others, on July 19; John Willard, Rev. George Burroughs and John Proctor about August 19; Martha Corey, wife of Giles Corey, Ann Pudeator, Alice Parker, and five others on Sept 9, the last executions which took place. In the court house on Fed- eral street are numerous papers connected with witchcraft trials, including the original warrants on which the victims were arrested, tried and executed, and the pins with which the witches are said to have tormented their victims. The trials were hell in an old court house which stood at the head of the railroad tunnel near Essex street. Churches. IVie First Church, corner Washington and Essex streets, is the most historic institution in Salem. The present edifice is a pretty, domestic-gothic structure, sur- mounted by two handsome towers. The auditorium and pastor's study are on the second floor, and underneath is John P. Peabody's great fancy goods and furnishing store, one of the most extensive in Essex county, a jewelry store and the Exchange bank. Here was erected the first church building in Salem, about 1634, and here on this spot has generation after generation worshipped in four successive edifices. Here, on July 20, 1029, and Aug. G, of the same year, was formed the first independent church organization in the new world. Other church organizations existed in America prior to this, but tliey were all effected in the old world. The history of the First church at Salem is a part of the history of American civiliza- tion. It constitutes the most important chapter in the eccle- siastical history of the new world. On July 20, 1629, Samuel Skelton was chosen pastor, and Francis Higginson, teacher. On Aug. 6, following, deacons and ruling elders were chosen, and the organization completed. Among the succeeding pas- 16 SALEM. tors have been Roger Williams, John Higginson, Hugh Peters, Hon. Charles W. Uphara, Dr. Briggs, James T. Hewes, and the present minister, Rev. Fielder Israel. For fuller informa- tion the reader is referred to an address delivered by Mr. Upham on Dec. 8, 1867, to the chapter in "Old Naumkeag" on the "Settlement of Salem," and the "Sketch of Salem." East (Unitarian), Brown street, opposite the common. Rev. Geo. H. Hosmer, pastor. The first branch of the First church, organized in 1718. The front of the present church edifice is very imposing, with its two round towers. The interior is the best specimen of pure gothic architecture to be found in Salem, and one of the very few edifices in this city, public or private, which has any attempt at architectural style. Tabernacle (Congregational), corner Washington and Federal streets. Founded in 17o5 by an unhappy division in the First church. Rev. Samuel Fiske, the first pastor, seceded from the First with more than half the members. In 1769 the church gov- ernment became Presbyterian, but resumed Congregationalism in 1784. The present house was built in 1854. Rev. DeWiLt S. Clark is pastor. North (Unitarian), Essex street, between North and Beckford. Rev. Edmund B. Willson, pastor. A branch of the First, in 1770. The first house of worship stood on the corner of Lynde and North streets, wliere Judge Lord's house new stands. It was there that young Dr. Barnard, then pastor, on a Sunday morning in 1775, dismissed the congrega- tion that they might go down to North bridge and prevent the progress of Col. Leslie. St. Peter^s (Episcopal), corner Brown and St. Peter streets. Erected in 1733, and first used on June 25, 1734. The fourth church established in Salem. There was Episcopal preaching in Salem as early as 1626, but it was very objectionable to most of the people. As late as 1777 the legislature affixed a penalty of £100 to the "crime" of reading the Episcopal service. The present building is a good specimen of Gothic architecture; built of granite, with a handsome castelated tower. The wil- low tree, growing in one corner came from the grave of Bona- parte, at St. Helena. Rev. Charles Arey, D. D., is rector. The Church of the Immaculate Conception (Catholic), Walnut street has a fine interior, having beeii beautifully frescoed in the SALEM. 17 spring of 1881. The fine tower was erected in the fall of 1880, and the mellow-toned bell first rang on St. Patrick's day, 1881. The first Roman Catholic house of worship was erected in 1820. In 1838 the attendance, which included the Catholics of the adjoining towns, numbered about 150. Salem now has two societies, the other being St. James_. on Federal street; and each of the towns has a society. The South church on Chestnut street, Rev. E. S. Atwood, has the finest spire in the city, and the Universallst on Rust street, Rev. E. C. Bolles, has an artistic interior. Public Buildings. Plummer Hall, on Essex street, is the seat of the Essex Institute and Salem Athenaeum, the most important historical and educational institutions in Essex county. The building occupied by these organizations, was built with a fund of $30,000 bequeathed by Miss Caroline Plummer to the Salem Athen?eum. The Institute was formed in 1848 by a union of the Essex County Natural History society with the Essex Historical society. Its objects are general and varied. Perhaps the most important is that of local historical discoveries and the preservation of everything relating to P^ssex county history, and especially of the towns in this vicinity. The Institute library numbers about thirty thousand bound volumes, and 100,000 pamphlets and volumes of periodicals and newspapers. Every book, manuscript, pamphlet, catalogue, circular, etc., pertaining to local history, finds a welcome here. Also, directories, and state and municipal registers and records, not only in the county, but throughout the world. In addition to the library field, or that of written instruction, the Institute is doing an important work in oral and object educa- tion through lectures, concerts, exhibitions and excursions and field meetings. Hours 9 to 1 and 2.30 to 5. The Athenoeum is purely a library institution, and contains about 17,000 volumes. The Institute occupies the lower floor and the Athemeum the upper. A small side-room on the first floor contains a rich museum of curiosities from different parts of the world, called the "historical collection." The large natural history collec- tion originally belonging to the Institute, was turned over to the Peabody Academy of science in 1867. It numbered at that time 125,000 specimens. The Institute publishes "The Histor- 18 SALEM. ical Collections," "The Bulletin," and occasional pamphlets. The libraries of the Essex Agricultural society and of the Southern District Medical society are deposited in Plumraer Hall. The main room occupied by the Athenaeum library is extremely fine and contains some rare old works of art. In the rear of Plummer Hall is the edifice first occupied by the First church society, built in 1636. Everything connected with these institutions will be shown to the visitor free. The- institute and Athenaeum libraries are open from 9 to 1 A. M., 2.30 to 5 P. M. (6 in summer). Peahody Academy of Science, Essex street, head of St. Peter st. George Peabody gave $140,000 "for the promotion of science and useful knowledge in the county of Essex," naming nine eminent gentlemen as trustees. Of this sum $40,000 was given for the East India Marine hall and the valuable museum of that society. The remainder constitutes a permanent in- vestment. The collections of the Essex Institute and East India Marine society were then united, forming one of the grandest collections in this country. The museum is open free to the public everyday (Sundays excepted), and a neat little catalogue will explain what is to be seen and where to find it. Hours from 9 to 12 and 1 to 5. City Hall, on Washington street, near Essex. Plain, low brick building, with smooth granite front. The city of Salem was incorporated on March 23, 1836, with Leverett Saltonstall as mayor. The first city government was inaugurated in the Tabernacle church. The city hall was first occupied on May 31, 1838. The interior of the hall is equally plain with the exte- rior, save the Mayor's suite of rooms which is very handsomely furnished, and the aldermanic chamber which is a beautiful room. This room contains a fine portrait of Washington pre- sented by Setli Low; and a small portrait of Mayor Saltonstall. The council chamber contains portraits of Washington and Nathaniel I. Bowditch. School Buildings. The buildings of the State Normal school, and also the Salem high school, and the Oliver primary are on Broad street near Summer. None of them are models of architectural skill or beauty. The Normal school building SALEM. 19 is a three-story brick structure, well adapted to the purpose for which it is used. -This school was established by the Commou- wealth in 1854. The city of Salem gave the site and erected the building, receiving from the state therefor, $6000. Eichard Edwards and Alpheus Crosby have been principals, and D. B. Hagar, Ph. D., is the present principal. The school is exclusive- ly for females. Salem's school houses do not reflect credit on a STATE NOBJ[A.L SCHOOL. city of wealth and intelligence, and are universally ill-adapted to educational purposes. The Custom House is on Derby street, at the head of Derby wharf. It is a two-story brick building with ware-house in the rear, and was built in 1819. The Customs collections in Salem are very meagre now, only about $10,000 a year. For- merly they were very large, an immense trade being carried on with foreign ports in all parts of the world. The time was when Salem had the most extensive commerce of any Ameri- can port. During the quarter ending with Dec, 1807, the duties at this port amounted to $511,000. In those days Derby wharf was lined with merchant vessels from different ports of the old world, sometimes two or three deep. Millions on mil- lions of dollars' worth of goods have been landed here. The old wharf is now fast passing away, the sides crumbling, and warehouses falling. 20 SALEM. The Passenger Station of the Eastern railway, at the inter- section of Norman and Front streets with Washington, is one of the most imposing buildings in the city. It is built of rough granite, and surmounted on the northerly end with two noble square towers. The freight and passenger traffic of this road at Salem is quite large. The passenger receipts average $150,000 yearly, and the freight $250,000. Branch lines run from here to Marblehead, to Danvers and Lawrence, and to Cape Ann. At the Northern Depot, on the other side of the city and at the opposite end of Washington street, trains go to Lowell and Lawrence over the Salem and Lowell, and to Lynnfield, Wakefield and Boston over the South Reading, a branch of the Eastern. The old Tovm House and market building, in Derby square, is an historic edifice. It was built in 1816, at a cost of $12,000, and was used by the town officials until the City hall was built. The County Jail is on St. Peter street. It is a small two-story granite building with jailer's house attached. There are other Essex county jails at Lawrence and Nevvbury- port. The Court Houses, on Federal street, contain the offices of all the county officials of Essex county, save the registry of deeds for the northern district, which is at Lawrence. There are two buildings. The older one, built in 1841, contains the county offices and the probate court room. The other, built in 1861, is where the supreme judicial and superior courts are lield. Sessions of the superior court are also held at Lawrence and Newburyport. Sessions of probate court are held at Salem, Newburyport, Lawrence, and Haverhill. The new court room contains the great portrait of Chief Justice Shaw, by Hunt, the artist's undoubted masterpiece; a smaller portrait of Judge Otis P. Lord of Salein, now on the supreme bench, and a still smaller one of Judge Putnam. Noted Houses and Private Residences. There are no striking specimens of exterior architecture among Salem houses, although there are many fine old mansions in the town, like the Pickering house on Broad street, built by John Pickering in 1650. It is now owned by one of his descendants, John Pickering. Timothy Pickering, scholar, lawyer, jurist. SALEM. 21 soldier and statesman was born here. Kern wood, the residence of Mr. S. E. Peabody, is a charminEj place, as is the estate of Mr. C. A. Ropes in the same section. Judge Endicott's house, No. 365 Essex street, is a fine specimen of the old-time Salem mansion. The residence of Mr. James P. Cook on Bridge street is attractive without and within, and contains a rich collection of works on China, one of the finest in this country. House No. 12 Lynde street, the residence of Hon. Wm. D. Northend, was once the home of Rufas Choate. The Hawthorne House, No. 21 Union street, the house in which the great romance writer was born, should be visited. It is an old-fashioned, two-story gambrel-roof house with a monster chimney in the centre. Hawthorne was born in the northeast corner room, on July 4, 1804. He also lived in a large old house which stood on Herbert street, and now stands in back toward Union street. One of his favorite haunts was the old Ingersoll house at the foot of Turner street, frequently designated The House of Seven Gablefi. It is claimed on the one hand that this house, which has many gables, and in those days had more, suggested to Hawthorne the name of his now famous romance. On the other hand it is alleged that he once said he had no particular house in view. This we can hardly construe literally. The story was given to the world as a local romance. The opening chapter more nearly describes this house than any other in Essex county. We know, too, that Hawthorne passed much of his time there. Historic Localities. At North Bridr/e, on North street, the citizens of Salem met Col. Leslie and three hundred British regulars on Feb. 26, 1775. Leslie was after some cannon whick were stored in North Salem. He landed in Marblehead and marched to Salem. The citizens met him at North bridge and told him he could not proceed. A compro- mise was finally effected by which Leslie was allowed to march his men across the bridge and then return to Marblehead and embark for Boston. Thus ended the first armed resistance to England's power, without bloodshed. Harmony Grove, in North Salem, is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in this country. It contains sixty-five acres of land, the western portion extending into Peabody. In summer, the cemetery is 22 SALEM. charming with its flowers and plants and foliage. The gate- way, a rustic arch of stone, is worthy of attention, and many of the monuments and pieces of s^culpture are very beautiful. George Peabody, the London banker and philanthropist, is buried here. In Charter street cemetery were buried Hillard Yeren and Martha Corey of witchcraft fame, Richard Derby, Warwick Pal fray, Benjamin Lynde, Simon Forrester and Deliverance Parkman, and in the Broad street cemetery Sheriff Corwin of Witchcraft fame. Hotels. Many years ago Ezekiel Hersey Derby owned nearly all the land in South Salem, it being then unsettled. Here he built a fine summer residence. That residence is now the Lafayette House, a most charmingly situated hotel, quiet and secluded. The surroundings are equally attractive. The house is in some respects old-fashioned, but it is that old fashion which we may well wish might never depart — the old fashion of comfort. The Lafayette is on the direct road be- tween Salem and Swampscott, Marblehead and Lynn. Chai'les F. Kelly is proprietor. The Farrafjut House on Derby Square is another hotel of excellent standing. Mr. James H. Ander- son, the proprietor, renovated and refurnished it in 1880, making it one of the neatest "down-town" hotels in the city, and he has placed it on a high plane. The house has a num- ber of fine, large, and elegantly furnished rooms on the second floor, where are also the office, dining hall, and three public parlors, with reading room. The rooms are heated by steam, an especial recommendation to its patrons. Business Houses. We will note here briefly a few of the many business houses of Salem. There are two monthly, two weekly, two semi-weekly and one daily, papers published : namely, Peabody's Fireside Favorite, Conrad's Pavilion, Observer and Post, Register and Gazette (Mercury, weekly edition), and Daily Evening News. The first two are adver- tising mediums. The Observer is located on the corner of Essex and Washington streets, where it has been for many years. In the same block is H. P. Ives' bookstore, where may also be found house paper and all kinds of stationery. The Gazette is in the large Hale block. The Register is in the SALEM. 23 historic Hawthorne building, corner Central and Essex streets, where it has been published many years. The building has been recently remodelled and the lower floor is now occupied by the Shawmut hat store, one of the largest in the county, managed by Geo. H. Smith. The Osbornes occupied this store for some fifty years. Near here, on the corner of Essex and St. Peter streets is located the new and enterprising firm of Merrill & Mackintire, dealers in stationery and room paper. Close by their store is Frank Cousins' dry and fancy goods store, filled with an almost endless variety. It is known as the Beeh-ive. The site occupied by this store was formerly William Gray's garden. At 198 Essex street is the jewelry store of Geo. A. Collins, who makes a specialty of repairing watches and clocks, and restoring antique articles. In Holyoke building, at the head of the tunnel is J. G. Lowery's fine art store. There is nothing in the matter of fine arts which is not represented here. Mr. Lowery has had many years' experience and is an expert in the business. He also frames all kinds of pictures. His rooms are well worth a visit. In Brown block, next the Observer office, we find C. II. & J. Price, the pharmacists. They have one of the most extensive establishments in Essex county; next door is C. M. Buffum's large hardware store. On the floor above is Dr. A. S. Dudley's dental rooms. The doctor has performed some of the most wonderful pieces of work in the manufacture of artificial palates, noses, and teeth. Hon. W. D. Northend, of the Essex bar, is also located here, and above is Brooks' book bindery. Immediately opposite and under the First church is John P. Peabody's elegant store, where the ladies can find about everything their most fastidious tastes can crave, and even gentlemen can be accommodated in many lines. It is really surprising how any one can put so many articles, and such a variety, in the space which this store occu- pies. Mr. Peabody has grown into the business froin small beginnings, and knows every diverging branch. His store is well worthy to occupy the site of the historic "first church organized in the new world." Speaking more in detail, it is not merely a common dry goods store, but to no small extent a jewelry store, a millinery store, and a ladies' furnishing 24 SALEM. goods store. It is such establishments as these that help build up a small city, because they bring to it business from our suburban towns. To any one seeking anything in the furniture line Salem offers unusual inducements. We find in close proximity, on Essex street, the two best establishments — the best in Essex county. At the corner of Barton Square and Essex streets, next the Barton Square church, are Haskell & Lougee. It is useless to speak in detail of the place, because everything in their line of business will be found here. Just beyond, at the corner of Essex and Crombie streets and near Mechanic Hall, is the new and commodious store of W. C. Packard & Co. This store was burned early in 1881 and rebuilt at once, and reopened on May 4, following. It is now one of the finest buildings on the street. Here, too, is a full assortment of the choicest furniture. The old ''Ship Tavern," subsequently known as the Mansion House, occupied the site on Essex street at the head of Central street, now occupied by the great dry goods house of Almy, Bigelow & Webber. John Gedney kept the old tavern in the 17th century; subsequently it was kept by John Stacey; in 1693 we find it kept by Francis Ellis, and still later by Henry Sharpe. John Turner built the Mansion House in 1748, and it was occupied successively by Judge Andrew Oliver and Capt. Nathaniel West. It was opened as a public house in 1833, and burned on June 8, 1859. It was succeeded by the West block, which was enlarged and remodelled in 1880. The firm of A. B. & W. was estabished in 1858, and occupied West Block in 1802. The lower floor is 1.55 feet by G5; the second floor, nearly as large, is occupied by the same establishment, and also a portion of the third story. The floors of this store cover an area of one acre. Goods are manufactured here in the store. The line covers dry and fancy goods, ladies' and gentlemen's furnishing goods, dl-ess goods, millinery, carpets, and custom work. James F. Almy, Walter K. Bigelow, William G. Webber, E. A. Annable, and C. R Washburn constitute the firm. David Conrad, on Essex street, near St. Peter street, has one of the finest blocks in the city since it was rebuilt in 1880. His " Pavilion" ranks among the best stores in the city. Charles A. Ropes, at the SALEM NECK. 25 foot of Central street, has probably the largest grain and hay store in Essex county. On North street, at No. 8, F. A. Wen- dell has one of the best plumbing establishments in the city. Richardson & Waters, on Essex street, near the market, are hardware dealers of experience. SALEM NECK. Juniper Point. — Winter Island. — The Willows. — A Pleasant Sea-Shore Settlement. The growth of Salem Neck is somewhat phenominal. Ten years ago the greater portion of the land was used as a pasture, although there were a few small summer cottages, and under the Willows a few children played. Seven or eight years ago several Lowell people came over here from Marblehead, where they had previously summered, and built some small cottages. In 1873, 4 and .5, the number of summer sojourners increased, and during the latter year Mr. Daniel B. Gardner, of Salem, purchased that section then known as the Allen farm, contain- ing about 42 acres, and laid out lots and streets. During the past six years, he has been unremitting in his efforts to improve the " Juniper" settlement, beautifying it with trees and foun- tains. Water, gas and the indispensable telephone are in place. This settlement contains about 100 houses, and in July and August the population numbers nearly 800 people. In 1880, Mr. Gardner opened a branch grocery store for the accommodation of residents, while butchers, bakers, ice-men, milk-men and all the attendants of city life are to be found. The locality is healthy, pleasant and comfortable. The ocean in front, and a salt water cove in the rear, purify the atmos- phere and temper the air. Across the cove is Winter island. This island is the property of the Plummer farm school. Boston k Northern Telephone Co. [General Offices at Salem, Mass.] This company affords telephonic communication between Boston and all the principal cities and towns of Essex county,Mass. , and Kockingham county, N. II., over its own lines, and by connecting lines to the chief cities of Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Ehode Island. Offices are now open on our lines in the following places : — Boston, Liyuii, Nahant, Svvampscott, 8alem, Peabody, South Peabody, Beverly, Marblehead, Daiivers, Tapleyville, Daiiversport, We 11 ham, Hamilton, Topsfield, Middle ton, Essex, Gloucester. Rockpoil, Ipswich, Newburypoit, Aniesbury, N. Hampton, N.H., Portsmouth, N. H., Newmarket, N. H., Exeter, N, H., 1 awrence. North Andover, South Aiidover, Methuen, Manchester, N. 11., Lowell, Haverhill, Groveland, Georgetown, Newton, I\. H. Our Principal Offices are Open Bay and Night. We connect with the lines to Worcester, Springfield, Fitch- burg, Providence, and other cities and towns. Offices will soon be opened in Concord, Nashua, Keene, Dover, and Great Falls, N. H. Rates always Lower than by Telegraph. A message rate jpermits five minutes'' communication^ dur- mg which time more can he said than in 500 words in tele- graphic communication. Storea, oflaces, residences, etc., connected, witli our different Exctiang-es at reasonable rates. Private lines built and equipped. A. D. SWAN, Pres't. Lawrence, Mass. C. SANDEES, Treas'r. Salem, Mass. (2G) SALEM NECK. 27 save a small section belonging to the general government for light-honse purposes, and the ruins of old Fort Pickering. The frigate Essex, one of the most historic ships of the American navy, was built here in 1799. The " Willows " section of the Neck, is, perhaps the more historical. Felt says that Salem Neck was occupied by fisher- men as early as 1637, at the " point of rocks" on the present Rowell farm near the Eowell homestead. The Hawthornes owned land here at one time. On the left is the Salem city farm, extending along the shore to the Willows. The Alms- house, a large brick building, erected in 1815, stands at the extremity of a lane leading off the main street to the left. A little further along on the main avenue, and near the top of the hill, is a building used as a public pest-house in case of epidemic. Just beyond, on the brow of the hill, stands Fort Lee, now dismantled and crumbling away. A fort was built here as early as 1699, and has existed in one condition and another down to the present time. In 1775 Gen. Henry Lee rebuilt it and mounted guns on it. Hence the name. After the war of the revolution and the war of 1812-14 it was aban* doned by the general government. It was again rebuilt during the fratricidal strife of 1801-5. The "Willows" through the liberality of the city and the enterprise of theNaumkeag street railway company has been admirably adapted to the public wants. Here are seats, booths, pavilions, fountains and paths to make pleasant the afternoon. There are some half dozen little dining places on the public grounds where fish dinners or lunches can be had at most reasonable prices. There are none of the" swindling prices so often charged at the sea-shore. Steamers often make trips down the harbor and pleasure boats are always to be had. Time was when this locality was a mere waste without a building on it. The only path leading here was a rough and crooked lane. Now all is changed. A broad highway and a line of street cars make the journey short and pleasant, either on foot, or in a private carriage or public con- veyance. All this has been done in the face of unexplainable opposition on the part of some citizens and members of the past city governments. As an event of a somewhat remarka- ble nature in this connection, and as showing how some men 28 DRIVES AROUND SALEM. are so constituted that they dislike to see any improvements, either because the idea did not originate in their barren minds or because they would seek cheap glory as (penny-wise and pound foolish) economists, it is due to history to record that a Salem councilman, in the spring of 1879, would not favor an appropriation for shade trees at the Neck unless it provided for closing the restaurants at 8 P. M., and prohibited the band from playing in the evening. Of course such obstruction as this could not effect much, though, — "Its proper sphere to hurt, each creature feels, Bulls aim their horns, and asses kick their heels." And, to-day, the land which, in 1873, was taxed for $9800, is assessed for more than $100,000. The Naumkeag street rail- way company has made vast improvements at the Willows during the past two years. In 1879, this company erected a 4arge and handsome pavilion at the terminus of its track. DRIVES AROUND SALEM. To Wenham axd Hamilton — Ciiebacco. — ScNTAra Lake. — The Danvers Asylum. — Spkinci Mansion. — SWAMPSCOTT AND NAUANT. — MARBLEHEAD. The roads in the vicinity of Salem present unusual attrac- tions for carriage driving, that between Salem and Gloucester beiag unsurpassed by any in New England. It will be found fully outlined further on, and, therefore, need not be described here. Another pleasant drive is made through Beverly, Wen- ham, Hamilton and Ipswich. Crossing Beverly bridge, turn to the left on to Kantoul street, shortly after entering the town, which follow to the railroad crossing. Here take the road leading to the reservoir and Salem water works, which is open until 6 P. M. The gate leading to the reservoir itself is DRIVES AROUND SALEM. 29 open afternoons. This reservoir is 400 feet square and holds 20,000,000 gallons. The road continues to the highway and thence to the pumping station on the shore of Wenham lake, from which Salem and Beverly obtain their water supply. The lake covers an area of 320 acres and contains the purest water to be found in the Commonwealth. The works were set in motion on Dec. 25, 1868. Returning to the public road, we conti)iue along the side of the lake to Wenham village, one of the purest types of a ^Tew England village in existence. The town of Wenham Avas the first of the several towns to be detached from ancient ISTaumlvcag. Hugh Peters preached here in 1036. At the church two roads diverge: That to the Ipft leadis to Asbury Grove, the Methodist camp ground, and that to the right through the main street of the village. Both will ultimately lead us to the railway station, from whence we may go to Hamilton village and Ipswich. A branch railway runs from here to Essex. There is some charming rural scenery between here and Ipswich. The camp-meeting ground, mentioned above, contains some three hundred residences and thirty society tents, and in summer has a population varying from five hundred to two thousand during camp-meeting week. Between Wenham depot and Hamilton village we pass the residence of Miss Abigail Dodge ("Gail Hamilton"). It is the old Dodge tomestead, and stands back some distance from the street on the left, just before entering the village. One may go from here to Ipswich along a road lined with thrifty- looking farm buildings, or keep to the right and visit Chebacco lakes. This secluded spot is certainly one of the most delightful on the North Shore. A retired, quiet nook in the woods, ap- proached by a charming shaded driveway leading to a group of as lovely sheets of water as ever the sun shone on. The fishing and boating is unsurpassed, and the scenery strikingly romantic. At the Chebacco House, Messrs. Whipple and Sons can prepare the best dinners or suppers to be eaten in the country. The spring chicken dinners furnished here have a more than local reputation. The home trip may be made through Beverly back roads or through Manchester woods and up along tlie Beverly shore. If by the former, the drive will 30 DRIVES AKOUND SALEM. be about twenty miles altogether; if by the latter about seven- teen. There is also a new road from the Dustan place in Beverly to Chebaeco, back of the lakes. Between Beverly proper and Pride's crossing the " back road" will be found fully equal to the shore road. We shall not give minute direc- tions because it is immaterial which way one drives; instinct ■will lead in the general direction of Salem, and half the romance is in striking boldly into any of the beautiful forest roads and following their winding course to the end. Perhaps the best inland drive is to Lynnfield and Suntaug lake. Go up Essex and Boston streets to Peabody, then out Foster street to Washington. The second house from the junction of the streets — the two-story yellow one — is the house in which George Peabody was born on Feb. 15, 1795. A short distance beyond, take the right hand road, which leads through a thriving farming community. The h\rge farm with a handsome white dwelling house is Charles Goodrich's. On the hill beyond is Ship-rock, the largest boulder in the country east of the Mississippi, save one in North Carolina. It is 40 feet by 20, and 30 in height and is owned by the Essex Institute. The large brick house surrounded by a flour- ishing farm is the Peabody alms-house. A mile or so farther on note the two rows of ash trees on either side of the highway along the Bryant estate; and just beyond, the most charming arch made by a double line of locust trees bordering the Gen. "NTewhall estate. The road by which we enter South Lynnfield village crosses the Boston and Newburyport turnpike and con- tinues on to Wakefield. Making a sharp turn to the right, on the turnpike, by the old Lynnfield hotel, drive past the charm- ing English villa of David P. Ives; then turning into the grove, by the road to the left, pass the residence of Henry Saltonstall and the Swiss villa of Francis Appleton. These are all summer residences, overlooking the beautiful Suntaug lake (formerly known as Humphrey's pond). They are de- lightful retreats surrounded by groves, parks and lawns. Just beyond Mr. Appleton' s, enter upon the turnpike and return to Locust street, through that to the Lynn road, which follow, along a rough but picturesque country road, to Wyoma, a sec- tion of Lynn. Turn to the left, pass the Catholic cemetery DEIYES AROUND SALEM. 31 (formerly a trottiug park), the residence of Mr. John L. Shorey, Brown's pond, on the left, and beyond, on the right, in Peabody, look for the Shillaber homestead. The road to Cedar grove cemetery leads off to the right. To Peabody village by way of Washington street completes the trip. The state lunatic hospital on Hathorne hill, Danvers, should be visited by all who get as near to it as Salem, because it is a building of gigantic proportions. It can be reached by rail, from the Eastern depot (11.30 A. M., or 12.45 nn^i -^ 40 P. M.) or by carriage. It is eight miles distant from 8alem. Go through Salem to Danversport. The point of land between the two rivers here was originally a grant to Gov. Endicott, who was probably, the first land-holder in the limits of Dan- vers. Just to the left of here, on a cross road, is the old Endi- cott iiear tree, undoubtedly the oldest cultivated fruit tree in the country. Drive through the pleasant village, turning to the left, by the church, and continue a mile and a half, passing through the Plains village. Here the Peabody institute, anoth- er of George Peabody's monuments, may be visited. It is pleasantly located amidst a forest of shrubbery and flowers. Two miles further on is Hathorne hill. The surroundings of the hospital, including the walks, drives, terraces, farm build- ings, and everything connected with the institution, are most perfectly arranged. The state owns 197 1-2 acres of land. The extreme elevation of the hill is 2.57 feet above sea level. The hospital building is of brick, four stories, in the domeslic-goth- ic style of architecture, that meaningless style after which so many of our j)ublic edifices are built. It is finished in the most lavish manner and yet for want of some strong distinc- tive architectural style does not impress the visitor in the re- motest degree. It is divided into nine sections, an administra- tion building in the centre, and four wings on either side, each falling back some fifty feet or more. The distance from the two extreme points is 1180 feet. ISTear here is the stone mansion of J. E. Spring, (built 1880-1) which cost about $80,000, one of the finest in New England. Near the Spring mansion lives John G. Whittier, in a charming retreat just off the highway. From the Asylum return to Salem through Peabody, passing the Parris house of witchcraft fame, the Collins house and other points of minor interest. 32 DEIVES AROUND SALEM. Swampscott, Lynn and Nahant may be inclosed in a pleas- ant drive of twenty miles, includins; return. Lafayette St. to the Lynn road, Sea View ave., to Hotel Preston, around the hotel, main road to Ocean ave., which follow to the old Phillips' homestead in Swampscott; keep to the left and drive around by the shore, to the Ocean and Lincoln houses, through the village to Ocean ave., Lynn; out of this to Lynn beach and to Nahant; drive entirely around the peninsula and return along the beach road, a most delightful spot, to Lynn again. Take Nahant street to Broad, then to Chatham and by Chatham to Essex, and back to Salem over the Forest river road. Arrange to be betw^een Hotel Preston and Nahant from 5 to 6 P. M., when the avenues are alive with fine turnouts. Another drive, com- prising a portion of the above, but much shorter, is to Marble- head village, around through Barnegat to the Salem harbor side. Keturning through the town to Devereux station, go to the Neck (elsewhere described). Drive around the Neck and back to the station, then turn to the left, follow Ocean avenue to the Clifton House, and then home through the ilawthorne- lined avenue fj-om Clifton station, the Lynn road and Salem and Marblehead road. This covers a distance of about twelve miles. These drives may be varied somewhat to suit the taste, and, in fact, one who is not limited as to time and has no special point in view cannot do better than to strike out utterly re- gardless of any one route and drive wherever inclination shall lead on the spur of the moment. Teams for these drives may be obtained at W. S. Jones' on Front street, near the police station ; also at Smith & Manning's on Essex street. PBABODY. Chukciies—Schooliiouses— Other Public Buildings — Business Houses— Peabody Institute — Statistical. Among the pleasant and thriving towns in the vicinity of Salem is Peabody. Turning from Essex street to the right into Boston street and passing through that portion of Salem know^n as Blabber Hollow, so called from the odor of the blubber used in olden times for stutiing leather, we come to a large elm tree, known as the "big tree." At its base is a stone dated " June ye 7, 1707," which is supposed to be the date when this monarch of the forest was located here. A flowing drinking fountain for man and beast was placed here in 1880 that furnishes a copious supply of pure water summer and winter. This formerly marked the limits of Salem on the right. On the left Salem extended to Lynn line. A few years ago the lines were changed, and now both sides are Salem, to near the upper end of the old burying ground on the right. This is probably the oldest cemetery in the town, and is noted as the burial place of Eliza Wharton. No directions are needed by strangers seeking the grave, as a well worn path leads to the spot. The foot stone and a large part of the head stone have been carried away in chips by relic-hunters. What is said to be the the oldest stone in the cemetery stands nearly facing the entrance under a wild cherry tree and bears this inscription, "Here lyes ye body of James Gyles aged about 10 years Decease ye 20 of May, 1089." The fine row of elm trees that front the cemetery were set out in 1843. The first house is that of Nathaniel Annable, the village black- smith, whose anvil still responds to his sturdy blows as it has from father and son for a century in its present location. On the opposite side of Main street is the old burial ground of the Quakers, or Friends, who were largely represented in this town in olden times. A few of the families still reside in the town, 2* 34 PEABODY. The large mansion on the hill, in the rear, is the residence of Gen. Wm. Sutton, whose lands extend as far as the eye can see. On the left of Main street stands the Wallis schoolhouse, on Sewall street, huilt in 18G9. It has 11 teachers and 590 pu- pils. On the right of Main street, the building occupied as a drug store belongs to the heirs of the late Dr. Joseph Shed, a prominent member of Jordan Lodge of Masons, and who built a hall in it for the use of the lodge. This lodge was formed in the old town of Danvers in 1778, bat afterward given up, its records, charter, &c., being destroyed by fire in 1808. In September, 1808, another charter was obtained and a new lodge formed. It bas continued ever since, and now has an elegant hall in the Warren bank building. Passing on up Main street, by the old Danvers bank on the corner of Hoi ten street, we come to the junction of Main and Washington streets, where stands the monument. This marks the spot from which Capt. Foster marched his men to Lexington, April 19, 1775, when seven of them were killed. It is of Danvers THE MONUMENT AND OLD BELL TAVERN. granite, 22 feet higb, 7 feet square at the base, and was erected in 1835. The old Bell tavern stood on what is now the lawn in front of the residence of Hon. A. A. Abbot. In the west PEABODY. 35 front chamber Eliza Wharton lived and died in 1788. Over the door on the west front was a quaint old sign that read : " I'll toll yoii in If you have need, Feed you well and bid you speed." Over the other door was the sign : " Francis Symonds makes and sells The best of chocolate also shells." A short distance up Washington street, stands the Methodist church, organized in 1836. In 1880 a deserted pottery on Washington street was turned into a chapel, and in 1843 this church was purchased of the South Congregational society by the late Timothy Walton, and removed here from the square, the monument being moved to allow it to pass. On the oppo- site corner is the residence of C. B. Farley, Esq. Above this the residence of J. A. Lord, Esq., formerly that of the late Hon. John W. Proctor. Adjoining this is the harness making establishment of Thomas F. Hutchinson, where may be found a good stock of harness materials, &c. Returning to Main street, the large brick store opposite stands on a portion of the old Southwick estate, noted as being the place where tanning was commenced about 1750. It is occupied by the young and enterprising firm of Bushby & Co., who do a very extensive business in choice family groceries, &c. The handsome resi- dence adjoining is that of Benj. S. Wheeler. A few steps farther and we come to Peabody Institute, founded by the late George Peabody, on June 16, 1852, the one hundredth anni- versary of the division of the town from Salem. It Avas built in 1853-4 of brick, with freestone trimmings, 128x50 feet, and contains a library of 21,000 volumes, and a lecture hall that will accommodate nearly 1000 persons, A full length oil paint- ing of the town's benefactor hangs in the lecture room, with portraits of Rufus Choate and Edward Everett. In the library can be seen an oval miniature of Queen Victoria, presented to Mr. Peabody by her Majestj^ It is painted on a plate of solid gold, 14 by 10 inches, and bears the inscription, " Presented to George Peabody, Esq., the benefactor of the poor in Lon- don" ; also two gold boxes, the Peabody Educational medal, autograph letters and other presents, of which the aggregate value is more than $50,000. Mr. John H. Teague was janitor 30 TEABODY. from 1854 until his decease Dec. 4, 1880. John D. McKeaii succeeded him. It was from here that the remains of George Peabody were taken to their final resting place on Locust Path in Harmony Grove, on February 8, 1870. He died in Lon- don Nov. 4, 1869. In the rear of the Institute is the Eben Dale Sutton Reference library, given to the town by Mrs. Eliza Sutton, whose name will ever be revered by all citizens of Peabody for the beautiful and useful gift. It was opened in June, 1869, and now contains over 1900 volumes of the rarest and most valuable books, free to the use of all. Nearly oppo- site stands the palatial residence of Mrs. Sutton, with its garden, lawn, fountain, &c. Opposite, on Main street, is one of the best business blocks in the town, known as Sutton block. The upper portion is occupied by Union Post 50, G. A. E., and the lower by stores. The first one is the elegant millinery store of Fernald & Sawyer, who rival the stores of the metropolis with thfir choice selections of goods. The dry goods store of this firm is also located in this block and is noted throughout the entire section for its wares, and the bar- gains to be had there. Charles A. Teague, who has the largest and best selected stock of boots, shoes, and gents' furnishing goods in tlie town, is an occupant of this block. Just above, on tlie right hand side of Park street, are the elegant grounds and residence of Mrs. J. B. Clement. This house was formerly the parsonage of the Unitarian church, and is now one of the finest in town. The Unitarian church, next above, was built in 1826. Ptcv. C.C. Sewall preached here from 1827 to 1841. In 1872 the liouse was remodelled at an expense of .f;12,000. In tlie rear stands the Baptist church, built in 1857, and remodelled in 1865 On the left of Park street, the new residence in process of erection, (May, 1881) is that of Charles A. Teague, the boot and shoe dealer of Sutton block. Returning to Main street the second building on our left is the drug store of D. P. Grosvenor, jr., formerly occupied by the late Sylvester Proctor with whom George Peabody was an apprentice from 1896 to 1810, when he was eleven years of age, and where he laid the foundation of that immense fortune which enabled him to give away over $12,000,000. Mr. Grosvenor is the telegraph operator of the PEABODY. 37 town, and keeps a well selected stock of goods in his line. He has some of the old furniture of the store .that was proba- bly used by Mr. Peabody. On the opposite side of Main street stands the neat and handsome church of the Universalist so- ciety. This was built in 1832, and the hall then underneath was used for town meetings before the town of Danvers was divided. The church has been remodelled several times and is now second to none in the place. Warren Bank building is a little farther west, a neat brick block, occupied by the bank and by the Five Cents Savings bank. The office of the Peabody Pveporter, Thos. McGrath, publisher, a bright and newsy sheet, is in this building. Above are read- ing and club rooms, and a Masonic and Odd Fellows hall. Across the street stands one of the oldest business blocks in town, known as Allen's building. This was foi'merly the loca- tion of the post office. W. Winslow is located here, with the largest and finest stock of men's clothing and furnishings in the town. Baldwin's Hotel, which adjoins this estate, was built in 1825 by the late Jonathan Dustin and has always been occu- pied. Washington Simonds kept it for more than 25 years. W. H. Baldwin is the present landlord and keeps a first class hotel. In the Square the new Soldier's monument is to be located in September. It is to be of Hallowell granite, 50 feet high, surmounted by a statue of Amer- ica. Its cost will be $6,500. Beyond is the depot of the Eastern railroad and branches. This stands on a portion of what was once known as Wallis mill-pond, which in the writer's youthful days, teemed with fish. Alewives by the thousands passed through here in the spring, on their way to Brown's and Spring ponds, where they spawned and re- turned to the sea. The refuse from the factories and tanneries fouled the streams so that the fish deserted them years ago. Opposite stands the South church, formerly the third church of Sidem, gathered on Sept. 23, 1713, and was known as such till 1750. This is the fourth edifice built on this site, the first having been torn down in 1S36; the next one was dedicated Feb. 1, 1837, and sold to the Methodists in 1843; another (just completed) was burned in the great fire of Sept. 22, 1843, when twenty-one buildings were destroyed; the present structure 38 PEABODY. was dedicated Aug. 10, 1844, and the church now numbers over three hundred members. In the rear of the church can be seen the town house, built Just before the division of the town in 1855. It is a building that the town has outgrown. N. H. Poor, Esq., has held the position of Town Clerk for 20 years, and Selectman for a score of years. It is occupied by town officers and the Peabody high school. The latter vi^as founded in 1850, and now has tliree teachers and 73 pupils. Central street was once noted for its potteries, where earthen wares were made, known throughout New England as Danvers China. One only of the potteries is now in opera- tion. The Bowditch school on this street has six teachers and 216 pupils. The high hill in the rear is known as Buxton's hill, the location of the water reservoir is one hundred and fifty-nine feet above tide-water. From its top the flames of burning Charlestown were seen in 1775. This sec- tion of the town is noted for its excellent farms, and was where the Uanvers yellow onion originated. Returning to the square and up Lowell streets, we pass, at No. 18, the extensive stove and tin ware establishment of D. A.-& F. H. Caskin who keep an excellent variety of stoves, furnaces and housekeeping- goods. They also do plumbing and general jobbing in their line. In tlie old Dustln building just above is the ofiice of the "Peabody Press/' Albert Vittum, manager; Charles D. How- ard, editor and proprietor. It is now in its 22nd volume and has a large circulation. In the rear of Lowell street stands the elegant St. John's (catholic) church, a pure gothic structure completed in 1880. On Lowell street stands the handsome brick buiUiing of the fire department, where two steamers, one hose carriage, and ladder truck are kept. Above, opposite, is the plain and un- pretending St. Peter's (Episcopal) church, founded in 1874, built in 1876, and improved in 1881. In the rear of Lowell street is the Center schoolhouse. It has eleven teachers and 500 pupils. This street leads to what is called the " Kingdom," where there are many families of Kings, but no one of them is a ruler. This is also a farming region. Returning to the square we pass Upton's block, which contains stores, offices, post-office, and a dance hall. The homestead of the late Gen. BEVEELY. 39 Gideon Foster, who marched his men to the battle of Lexing- ton, in 1775, from this town, stands on the earner of Main and Foster streets. Foster street is lined with tanneries and cur- rying shops, which do a very large business. Just above its junction with Washington street are the extensive works of the Danvers bleachery, where millions of yards of cloth are bleached and colored annually. The second house above the junction, on the right, is the house in which George Peabody was born. Beyond is South Peabody, where are a number of granite quarries and extensive farms. Cedar Grove Cemetery is located here. It is 133 acres in extent, and was laid out in 1859. In the suburbs of the town are four smaller schools with 4 teachers and 117 pupils, making a total of 22 schools, with 5 male and 38 female teachers, and 1669 pupils. The town expends about #^22,700 for schools annually. Its valuation is $6,311,050, and its area is 9,050 acres; has 1340 dwellings, 121 steam boilers with 4554 horse power; 718 horses, 523 cows, and a population of about 9080 souls. The original town of Danvers was incorporated in 1757. The town was divided into Danvers and South Danvers in 1855. The name of South Danvers was changed to Peabody in 1868. BEVERLY. Its History.— Descuiption of the Sea Shore Section. ^- Pride's Crossing, Beverly Farms.— Kapid Develop- ment OF the Shore Section. Across an arm uf the sea from Salem, where the North river joins Beverly harbor, is the town of Beverly. The bridge here is 1484 feet in length and was built in 1788-9. The Wenham water pipe rests on piles on the westerly side. Beverly is one of the oldest settlements in the Commonwealth. It formed a part of Salem until 1668, when it was incorporated as an inde- 40 BEVERLY. pendent town. John and William Woodbury and Roger Oo- naut were among the first settlers. The first meeting house was built about 1G56, with Rev. John Hale as pastor, Hon. John P. Hale, Hon. Nathan Hale and Rev. E. E. Hale are numbered among his direct descendants. A second church was established at North Beverly in 1713, with Rev. John Chipman as pastor. He married a daughter of Rev. John Hale. Chief Justice Gray is of their descendants. Agriculture is a pursuit of considerable importance, especially at Ryall's Side, Centerville and North Beverly. In the last named section is the noted Cherry Hill farm of R. P. Waters, and also the ex- tensive and picturesque estate by Wenham lake which John C. Phillips is making into one of the most beautiful in the country. The manufacture of boots and shoes is now the leading industry of the town. The value of the products of these shops cannot be less than two millions annually, and they employ about 1500 persons. Few towns in Massachusetts have made such rapid strides in the onward march of progress during the last sixteen years. The water supply and fire apparatus, and the streets and public buildings are on a metropolitan scale almost. The Wenham lake water pipes penetrate every section of the town ; the fire department houses are in good condition and equipped witli superior apparatus; the roads are usually among the best in the county. It is true that these things cost much money, and the town has a large debt, but the last few years have de- monstrated the wisdom and foresight of all the expenditure. The finest public building in the town is Odd Fellows hall on Cabot street, corner of Broadway. It is a handsome brick building and has one of the richest lodge rooms in tlie country. The architecture of the room borders on the Grecian ; the walls and ceiling are richly and elaborately frescoed, and eight oil paintings enliven the four sides. The carpets and furniture and lodge paraphernalia are exquisite. The town building near- ly opposite is commodious, and contains beside the usual offices two good halls and a public library of 5000 volumes. The Briscoe school building near the common is another handsome edifice. The Masonic block corner of Cabot and Wasliington streets, built in 1867, at a cost of .^20,000, contains the post BEVERLY office and national and savings banks. Among the fine resi- dences in the village are those of Hon. John I. Baker on Abbott street, Hon. Francis Norwood on Cabot street, Capt. Newman on Lathrop street and Dr. Had- dock on Bartlett street. Dr. H. has a delightful place, his flower garden being one of the richest in the town. In his house are some rare and curious ©bjects, the most interesting of which is the old clock of which we present a picture. It was brought from Amsterdam about IG60 by Capt. Foster. It came into the doc- tor's hands some years ago in a dilapi- dated condition. He entrusted it to Mr. George A. Collins, the jeweler in Salem, who restored it to its present beautiful and artistic condi- tion. Kobert Ran- toul, the great states- man and scholar stands at the head of 42 BEVERLY. Beverly's distinguished men. Graduating at Harvard in 1826, he practised law in Essex county, was representative to the general court, collector of the port of Boston, United States district attorney, succeeded Daniel Webster in the United States senate, and finally died, while a member of the national house of representatives. Contemporary with Rantoul was Isaac Ray, a distinguished writer on medical jurisprudence and mental disease; Wilson Flagg, the great naturalist; also, Rev. A. P. Peabody, au eminent divine, now connected with Harvard, and Hon. Nathan Dane. Beverly has a population of about 8500. According to the census of 1875 it contained 1,399 dwellings. The amount of capital invested in manufac- tures was (1875) ft314,700. The fishing business has dimin- ished largely. The value of the cod brought to its ports in 1875 was $131,000. The valuation of the town in 1878 was $5,386,600 real estate; and $2,372,300 personal; polls, 1,910; rate of taxation, $14.80, per $1,000. The art connoisseurs who visit Cape Ann will find in Beverly one of the most at- tractive institutions that the county affords, in the works of the "Beverly pottery." Here they will see accurate re- productions of all the best specimens of ancient pottery, literal copies of some of the finest pieces now in the old world art museums. Beverly has always had excellent deposits of clay within her borders, and besides the early brick manufactory, was among the earliest to establish manufactories of pottery here in this country. Of early workers as early at least as 1700 were members of the Balch and Hay ward families, the latter of whom owned land immediately contiguous to the present Beverly pottery, if they did not include that, and there were traces of their work in that vicinity when the present pottery grounds were graded thirteen years ago. The Kettle family also had cunning workers in clay here in the early days and those skilled in the art emigrated hence to Charlestown, Mass., Exeter N. H. and elsewhere. This work has always been more or less prosecuted here ever since; Tarbell's ware being well known as a Beverly product for many years; Mr. Jesse Dodge who died a few years since, being the last survivor of those who worked at Tarbell's pottery. Mr. Charles A. Lawrence established the present Beverly pottery in continua- BEVERLY. 43 tion of those previously here, and has worked out great im- provements in this kind of work in many convenient and curious devices, attaining a large sale, and many visitors come to see and purchase the curious specimens of clay handiwork there made. The Beverly shore is a section of unsurpassed attractions to those who love rural scenery; especially lovely is it when viewed from the harbor at a short distance from shore. Rocky bluffs, beaches, and coves are pleasingly blended; trees of bountiful and beautiful foliage crown the hill crests in the rear, while here and there we spy the red roof of some summer dwelling— here, perhaps, a pretty Swiss villa in the centre of a broad lawn and surrounded with luxuriant flower beds; there a stately mansion overlooking the sea; and anon a Norman or Queen Anne villa crowning some summit and frowning overall its neighbors. The little hastily built sea side cottage, costing from $600 to $1000, has given way to the extensive establish- ment costing from $10,000 to $25,000. Hale street, which branches off from Cabot near the South church, is the main thoroughfare along this shore, and extends to Manchester, a distance of seven miles — some times at the water's edge and again a half mile from the extreme end of some point. Or we may turn from Cabot street into Washington, and from that into Lathrop. The house on this latter corner is the old Rantoul mansion. It has sometimes been occupied by Rev. A. P. Put- nam of Brooklyn. Next beyond, on Lathrop street, is the English villa of Wm. M. AVhitney, with a broad lawn in front and a forest of shrubbery in the rear and on either side. At the top of the little hill across the valley, we come to Hale street and turn to the right. The cottage in the little grove on the knoll is Israel Whitney's. And now we keep to the right and follow Ober street, past Charles Elliott's pleasantly located estate on the hill overlooking the harbor and surrounding towns, and the beautiful new cottage house of Wm. F. Ash- ton of Salem, built in 1881. On the same side of the street, a little further along and surrounded by an imposing granite wall, are the extensive grounds and mans^pn of B. F. Burgess. This estate extends back from the water about a quarter of a mile and is one of the finest on the coast. Adjoining the 44 BEVERLY. Burgess estate on the same side is William Sobier's residence, and also the Bardwell estate. Opposite Mr. Burgess's and next beyond the Bardwell estate is the fine residence of Alexander S. Porter; and next is that of Mrs. Rodgers. Across the cove on the next point of land is Hospital point lighthouse, reached by a new street leading off Neptune street. The elegant man- sion next to the lighthouse belongs to Amory A. Lawrence of Boston. It is in the picturesque Queen Anne style. In close proximity, is Henry W. Peabody's new residence — both built in 1881. As we return to Hale street along Neptune, we pass on the right at tlie bend of the way the M. VV. Shepard estate, occu- pied by Joseph W. Lefavour of Salem. Beyond it, approached by a private way is Wm. D. Pickman's new and magnificent man- sion (built 1881), in some respects unequalled. It is after the pattern of the Salem houses of 1750 to 1800. Nearer to Hale street is Mrs. Willard Peele's residence. These estates are enclosed with a castellated granite wall, while on the opposite side of the street, enclosed by a like wall, is a large park belonging to them. In the woods, some distance back may be seen the massive granite mansion of Andrew K. Ober, over- looking the ocean and surrounded by beautiful groves. Brack- enberry lane leads to Patch's beach and the residence of Mrs, David Sears. Prince street leads to the summer residences of John G. Cusliing (on Gushing point), Richard T. Parker, Mrs. John B. Silsbee and S. Endicott Peabody. Across the cove from this point is another frowning stone mansion, a castle almost, that of Mrs. Franklin Dexter. It looks from the w^ater very much like a small Rhinish castle. If now we return to Hale street and continue along it we shall pass through a charming wooded park. The estates on the right are those of Mrs. Dexter and John G. King, both hidden from view. Those on the left are George Z. Silsbee, W. G. Saltonstall, Mrs. Geo. H. Shaw, Yv'aldo Higginson and J. P. Gardner's heirs. Next on the right beyond the beach is the fine large mansion of Mrs. J. S. Cabot. Directly opposite, a little distance from the street, is the Swiss jjilla of Hon. Martin Bi-immer. The cot- tage next beyond Mrs. Cabot's, on the same side, and partially hidden in arbor mt(B is C. U. Cotting's and close to it is that of BEVERLY. 45 G. A. Goddard. Some distance in from tbe street, beyond these, is Mr. A. Cochrane's, built in 1881, and near it a new bouse built by C. G. Loring. On Uie bill opposite Mr. Getting are Wm. Endicott, Jr., and Sidney Bartlett. Still further along, on the very brow of the hill, is Francis W. Palfrey's Swiss villa, and next that of Francis Bartlett. On Thistle street, beyond Mr. Bartlett' s, is the residence of Gen. C. L. Peirson, back of which is anew experimental farming establish- ment of Augustus P. Loring, and between that and Pride's crossing the sightly estate of James F. Curtis. The driveway to the right, just before we reach the Pride's crossing station, leads to Plum Cove beach and the estates of C. W. Loring, C. G. Loring and the villa of P. T. Jackson. If, just beyond the station, we turn down the road to the right, we shall visit a cluster of summer mansions most charmingly situated, amid parks, groves, gardens and lawns, where the foliage is luxuriant and the air filled with the perfume of liberal acres of flowers, and where nature Las been assisted in the beautifying process by all that art can suggest and wealth supply. Here are natural and artificial forests, meadows, and fields of grain and grass, interspersed with ponds, rivulets, carriage roads, bridle paths and foot paths. The new house on the left, builtjn 1881, belongs to John T. Morse, Jr. ; next is the cottage which he occupies, then those of E. Rollin Morse, and John T. Morse, Sen. The house on the right nearly opposite the last named is Mrs. Judge B. F. Thomas. The old fashioned mansion in the hollow beyond belongs to F. Gordon Dexter. Back of this road, on our right as we enter, is another series of houses. Beginning next to the Lorings there are, in order, George Gardner, Wm. C. Paine and S. B. Schlessinger on the immediate shore. Miss Paine, and F. L. Iligginson behind these. Continuing to the beach and coming out at Beverly Farms we pass, on the way, the estates of Franklin Haven, T. A. Neal, R. S. Rantoul and Mrs. S. Cabot. Few of these houses can be seen from Hale street or from the railway. Beyond the station, the white brick house belongs to Jonathan Preston and the yellow one to Mrs. E. A.- Boardman. The beautifully situated mansion on the point towards Man- chester-by-the-Sea belongs to Col. Henry Lee. Tbis Beverly 46 BEVERLY. Farms section is so called because it was once comprised in two great farms. John Blackleacb originally owned a farm which extended from Mr. Haven's present residence to Manchester-by- tbe-sea. He sold to John West, and he in turn to his son Thomas. Mary West, a daughter of the latter, married Robert Woodbury and thus the farm was divided. Woodbury built the house now occupied by Dr. Curtis and which bears date 1673. The other farm was owned by William Woodbury and extended in the other direction to Patch's beach. The unique Swiss villa seen from Beverly Farms in the distance on a "back" street belongs to Mrs. Ozias Goodwin, and near it is W. B. Sewall' s cottage. Others in this vicinity are owned F. S. Morrison, Charles Storrow, Henry Dexter, Henry Adams, Mr. Luke, and Mrs. Parkman, while further along the shore toward Manchester- by-the-Sea, is Mr. S. T. Morse's elegant villa. And on the highlands opposite, are the prominent and equally pleasant estates of C. H. Dalton, J. Elliot Cabot, Dr. R. W. Hooper, and Thornton K. Lothrop. We have now completed our tour of the sea-shore sec- tion of Beverly, and seen how wonderfully clianged it is from what it must have been twenty years ago. Men now living re- member when the entire sea-shore section of the town was as- sessed for $2.5,000 ; to-day the non-residents alo^e are assessed at for least one and a half millions of dollars on rea"'l estate. A telephone is much needed in this section, but for some reason the town authorities will not grant permission for its construc- tion. MATSrCHESTEE-BY-THE-SEA, The Oldest Resort — Masconomo House — History and Description of the Town. This is one of the oldest, as it is one of the most charming of the North Shore resorts. Its four miles of coast is a pleas- ing combination of bold headlands, pretty beaches and quiet coves. During a storm one may behold gigantic seas dashing against the projecting bluffs with sufficient force to make the granite walls tremble, while boats ride quietly at anchor in the coves ; and in pleasant weather the waves roll gently up the beaches and break noiselessly on the rocks. The air of Man- chester-by-the-Sea is tonic, and a spirit of freshness and vigor pervades every one who inhabits its shores. A well-known ex-mayor of Cambridge comes here as soon as the snow is off the ground and remains until the return of cold weather, because it is the only place where he can get relief from Asthma and hay-fever. The town of Manchester originally formed a part of ancient Salem, from which it was detached on May 14, 1645, being the next after Wenliam, and incorporated as an independent municipality. The early name was Jeffrey's Creek, so called from William Jeffrey, the first settler. It was once a fishing port of some note, but that industry has practically disap- peared. Some of its people engaged extensively in the manu- facture of furniture, but with the depression of 1873-9, the business declined to a minimum. It is recovering somewhat of late. The valuation of the town is about two and a half millions, and the rate of taxation in 1881 about $5 per $1000. The population in 1880 was 1640, and the area of the town 4ol0 acres. The principal settlement is at the head of the cove on Jeffrey creek. Here are three churches. Baptist, Orthodox and Methodist— stores, schools, halls and the like. A good hotel is wanting. About a third of a mile from the village is the only hotel in this part of the town, the Masconomo. It is 48 MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. one of the finest sea-shore caravansaries on the coast and was built by Junius B. Booth in 1878 and opened to the public in June of that year. Without and within it is a model of hotel architecture. When Mr. Booth built his villa, which now forms an annex to the hotel, he selected the finest site on the Manchester shore, and every guest at the Masconomo has the benefit of that judicious selection. In general outline and interior finish it reminds us of one of those fascinating hotels on the shores of the Swiss lakes or among the snowy Alps. On the northern front is a garden and park, beyond which the hill falls away to the cove and the village. On the southerly side broad lawns slope to the beach. This beach is known as Singijig beach, because of the peculiar musical sound of the sand when struck with the foot or by an incoming wave. The New Yorlc Graphic says that, in selecting this spot, Mr, Booth studied the coast very thoroughly from Long Branch to Old Orchard. Those who follow him in the study and make up their conclusions at his hotel will speedily assent to the claim that he holds the gem of the North Atlantic sea coast. Mr. Booth's estate is a superb lawn of twelve acres looking out on a smooth, broad crescent of shore, whose sand, by some pecu- liarity of its particles, actually whistles as you tread upon it. Beaten hard by the surf, it is compact and almost unyielding to tread or wheel, and sloping gently, has a splendid floor for the bather, with no perils from undertow, the reefs, far outside, receiving the first force of the sea. By the trend of the shore line the beach fronts almost due south, and the dreaded north- east wind comes to the Masconomo house across eight miles of pine woods. The hotel was named for the Indian chief, Masconomo. Its front is 240 feet, depth 52 feet, and height three stories. Within are a dining room 77 feet by 32, hotel and telegraph ofiices, parlors and twenty-two guests' rooms on the first floor; twenty-four rooms for guests on the second floor, and thirty on the third. The octagon hall in the centre of the house contains four large fireplaces which throw out cheer and warmth on stormy nights when "the ocean roars up the beach" and the " gusty blast mingles with our speech." The building is surmounted with a tower which rises 70 feet above sea level. An annex on the westerly end, built in 1880, contains billiard ^ 50 MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. liall, bowling alley and sleeping rooms. The whole institution is lighted with gas. Connected with it is a stable with horses and carriages. Some of the best drives of Essex county radiate from here. One may ride or walk for miles along the pathways of costly estates or turning inland drive through pleasant valleys, inside fertile farms or in the "deep solitude" of the forest. The road to Essex through the noted Essex woods is peculiarly pleasant and romantic on a summer afternoon or in the early morning. As we enter the town from Beverly we note first, on the right and some distance from the road, the residence of Benj. G. Boardman. Near it is that of his son, Commodore T. Dennie Board man. The cottage on the point of rocks near West Manchester station is also owned by the former. The peculiar looking structure on the hill to the right of the highway and to the left of the railway is Henry L Higginson's new resi- dence. He has been several years building it and has expend- ed thousands of dollars on it. On the further side of the hill is a road leading to West Manchester depot and a cluster of summer cottages. Among them are those of N. B. Mansfield, Dr. Bartol and W. C. Cabot. Dr. Baitol's is the cottage with the tower on top, and near it is his observatory. West Man- chester is a remarkably cool place. Evenings, when the heat in Salem or Boston is almost unendurable, a summer overcoat will be needed here. Pursuing our way to the village we pass the town house and Congregational church; turning to tlie right, follow railroad avenue across the railway and up the hill to the Masconomo. The large, prominently located residence on the hill to the left was occupied during several years by M. B. Conway, the actor. The red-roofed cottage on the top of the hill, a little further up, on Thunderbolt-rock, was for many years the summer residence of the late James T. Fields. At the Masconomo we turn to the right and drive along the old Neck road a few rods and then take the driveway to the right. The white farm house on the right belongs to the Smith estate. The fine establish- ment on the left, fronting on the Neck road, with the grove in the rear (formerly the Martin estate) is occupied by David B. Kimball of Salem. Ascending the hill on the Neck MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 61 we have the old O. S. Fowler place on the right and two fine residences on the left owned by Hon. J. Warren Merrill, the further one occupied by Mr. Sawyer (built 1880) and the other built in 1881. The house on the top of the hill, with pointed tower, is the residence which Mr. Merrill occupies himself; just below it is E. E. Kice's