F I -m • -> * wm i \\\ py\qi^ e. o tLwes"R>vg y Glass. p~„ Book. a "3» i Bejtfj James Rive Old Dominion Series, No. 2. Compiled from various sources, for the Old Dominion Steamship Company, by Robert F. Day, Editor of The Pilot. - P. Author. 5 $'02 f^3 "l- THE JAMES RIVER In former days, and by that is meant the days before the great and worthy Columbus, the Powhatan River was the paradise of the redman and well it might have been. Here he paddled his cedar boat and speared his "swift and finny prey" in true barbaric style, or bent his bow on the water fowl or antleredstag browz- ing in the brake. Here the bronze-breasted wild turkey abounded and at times the air was darkened by a flight of wild pigeons. Throughout the entire length of this magnificent stream, from its source in the mountains of West Virginia to its debouchement in the Bay. three hundred and sixty miles, the lowlands and uplands were covered with a luxuriant vegetation. Wild fruits of all kinds grew upon the bluffs and in the woody recesses, and for months every glen and vale, headland and bight were embowered in "trailing vine and fronded fern" and thousands of flowers of fragrant growth. From mountain to sea "this warm and golden zone" offered an enchanting prospect, the Arcadian solitude and inviting repose of its shores, to nations far across the seas; step by step the savage was forced to yield his territory to the overwhelming wave of civilization which swept him farther and farther inland and estab- lished the "seat of Freedom's throne" on the fair shores and stately curves of his loved I'owhatan. On the beautiful bluffs and uplands of this river with banks of "many a winding 'bout" English fami- lies of high degree purchased, or, better still, received by King's grant, large estates, and erected stately homes modelled on the English country house; here, surrounded with all the comforts and luxuries which could be brought from England, they lived the life of petty sovereigns, gave the lordliest feasts, drank the best wines imported from sunny isles, had their escutcheons painted over the portals or carved in rich mahogany over the wide-mouthed fireplaces and had their portraits painted "in gold-laced coat and curling wig" by the masters of portraiture; and their dames, painted in all the beauty of curving line and trailing lock, with powdered hair and shimmering silk, look down on us now with gentle, reminiscent eye; so life- like are they that one can almost perceive the faint, exquisite perfume exhaled from a "daintie" person- ality. But these men and women left "footprints on the sands of time." Their days were not passed in enjoy- ment alone, they accomplished t^eir destined end. The Byrds of Westoier, the Carters of Shirley, the Harrisons of Berkeley and Upper and Lower Brandon, have all left their impress on the Nation's past. The fire and smoke of three different wars have marred thesod, and thetrampof battalions hassounded along its banks. The army of Cornwallis on its march from Petersburg to Yorktown, crossed the river at Westover, thence onward across the country to York River to meet the disastrous close of the most dramatic event of the eighteenth century. Benedict Arnold with his ruthless Hessians set fire to Old Warwick and to Aiken's Landing. The stain of dishonor on his "crested blade," however, stood out in no sharper relief to those whom he had betrayed than it did to those who in warfare used him and in peace despised him. Norfolk and Hampton were both stormed with shot and shell by British guns; and in later times the bloody, fratricidal strife between North and South centered on the James. Drewry's Bluff, King's Mill, Malvern Hill, Turkey Bend and others, are all profiled in the lurid smoke ol battle, while the roar of McClellan's guns, the tramp of Butler's army and the clamour of his camp near City Point were daily events. Dutch Gap, itself a memorial of the war, cut by General Butler, has since been widened and deepened for the greater conven- ience of navigation. At Wilcox Landing General Grant brought his army of one hundred and fifty thousand men across the river by means of pontoon bridges. The Merrimac and Monitor met in deadly conflict in Hampton Roads. Thus from time to time has the clangour of war sounded along these historic shores, but triumphant peace has now sealed a new compact of National Unity.— L. R. D. ALONG THE HISTORIC JAMES RIVER NORFOLK TO RICHMOND NORFOLK The commercial and progressive city of Norfolk is the main terminal of the Old Dominion Line in Vir- ginia and is one of the most thriving cities in the South. It is the chiel commercial city of Virginia and, aside from its enormous railroad and shipping business, is rich in histori' interest. One beautiful landmark of colonial days, Old St. Paul's Church, was built in 1739, the bricks imported from England. This venerable edifice has stood through trials of war, fire and pestilence. PORTSMOUTH Across the Elizabeth River from Norfolk, andclosely connected with it by ferries, is Portsmouth, the termi- nal of important railroad lines and the location of a VIbWS IN NORFOLK United States Navy Yard. The battleship ''Texas" and the cruiser "Raleigh" are products of this Yard. On the River front in the northern portion of the City, the beautiful Marine Hospital grounds can be seen. The hospital itself is one of the first buildings noticed upon entering the Harbor. BUSH'S BLUFF LIGHT VESSEL Was established a few years ago as an aid to navi- gation in the Norfolk Channel. It shows two fixed white lights. HOSPITAL LIGHT Hospital Light in Norfolk Harbor, shows a fixed red electric light from a mast on Hospital Point. CRANEY ISLAND LIGHT Craney Island Light is a screw pile lighthouse showing a white and hash light on the edge of the Baltle of Monitor and Merrimac, off Newport News channel, four miles from Norfolk. It is directly in front of Craney Island which, during the War of 1812, was fortified as a protection to Norfolk. MIDDLE GROUND Is in Hampton Roads, and the lighthouse is a mod- ern cylindrical steel structure, designed to stand against great pressure of ice and rough seas. Its light is white and flash. NEWPORT NEWS The inception of one of the greatest naval construc- tion plants on record, and the modeling of it, are coin- cident with the founding and development of the City of Newport News. Its business interests have mount- ed upward with giant strides in the last decade, while its record in the list of Atlantic export cities is mar- velous. How Newport News received its name is interest- ing. According to tradition, the old colony at James- town, where the attempt was made to form the first settlement, was decimated by death and disheartened by the repeated massacres of the Indians, and with heavy hearts a few of them had followed the River down to its confluence with the Bay to await a Ship which would bring them reinforcements from the Moth- er Country. At last the returning Expedition of Capt. Newport was seen and in commemoration of this happy event, the colonists named the place Newport's News, from which has resulted the modern pronunciation of Newport News. WHITE SHOAL LIGHT Is opposite the entrance to Pagan Creek in the James River and is a screw pile lighthouse, built prev- The Ship of Captain Newport ious to the Civil War. Its foundation is on an oyster rock and it is surrounded by oyster beds. It shows a fixed white light. PAGAN CREEK This is a branch of the James River, open for navi- gation as far as Smithfield in Isle of Wight County, famous for its peanut industry. DAY'S POINT Day's Point is the point of land projecting into the River at the entrance to Pagan Creek. POINT OF SHOAL LIGHTHOUSE Is another of the screw pile structures, built in the middle of the River, near Ferguson's. It stands in what is known as Burwell's Bay. FERGUSON'S Is a landing near the entrance of Pagan Creek and is a lumber and fishing station. DEEP WATER SHOAL LIGHTHOUSE Was built previous to the War and stands in the middle of the River. It shows a fixed white light. HOG ISLAND Near Jamestown, on the opposite side of the River, is what is commonly called Hog Island and which is one of the ancient settlements. It is supposed to have ob- tained its name as far back as 1608, when it was used for the safe-keeping of hogs. It was very much im- proved of late years by Mr. E. E. Barney, deceased, and is now called Homewood. KING'S MILL WHARF Is directly opposite Hog Island, and is the landing for Williamsburg, four miles distant. SCOTLAND The site of the old town of Cobham is near Scot- land Wharf. It was the port for Surry County at the mouth of Gray's Creek. The records show that the Town was laid off in 1680 and re-established in 1772. Scotland is the terminus of the Surry, Sussex and Southampton Railroad, connecting with the Nor- folk and Western Railway at Wakefield. JAMESTOWN. In 1606, several years after the total disappearance of Raleigh's second Colony in Virginia (as the entire coast of North America was then called in England), Gosnold organized a Colony of hardy and venturous spirits which sailed from the Mother Country upon vessels, the largest being hardly one hundred tons burden. This was the "Susan Constant," and her consorts were the "Godspeed" and "Discoverer." They landed upon the cheerless, barren shores of Cape Henry on the 17th of April, 1607, and spent a few days looking for a suitable site to establish a settlement. On May 13th of the same year they anchored off a point in the James River, then called the Powhatan, where they established the first settlement, calling it James- town in honor of the then ruling monarch. They also gave the River its present name of James. Forever around this spot, national interest will cen- ter, for it is an ancient landmark of enlightened civil- ization, the first prominent English settlement of North America, the first Capital. The history of Jamestown is the history of the Colony and the country for many years. "Here were the first trial by jury, the first English church, the first English marriage, the first birth of an English child in Virginia and the first legis- lative assembly in America. It has been said that here the Old World first met the New. Here the white man first met the red for settlement and civilization. Here the white man first wielded the axe to cut the first tree for the first log cabin. Here the first log cabin was built for the first village. Here the first vil- lage rose to be the first State Capital. The Governor lived here and here the Assemblies met. Upon the shore of Jamestown the first cargo of slaves was disembarked by the Dutch, but a much lovelier sight was the troop of 90 maidens who had ventured across the Sea to become the wives of strange lovers. The impetuous Bacon set fire to the place in 1676 and scarcely a vestige of its prosperity was left. Before this, it must have been a promising little city, for we read of the Church, Statehouse, a brick mill, many brick houses, a blockhouse, Governor's House and Government Gardens. The place was never healthful however, and was almost destroyed in 1706." Ruins of Old Tower at Jamestown Jamestown Island was formerly part of the main- land, being a peninsula at the time Smith and his Col- ony landed there. The many freshets and the con- stant inroads of the River, formed the passage which has made the site of the village an Island. The only visible relic of Jamestown is the tower which roofed the vestibule of what is claimed to have been the first church located in America. The mortar is as hard as stone and the bricks are further bound together by ivy stems and roots. Recent excavations under the direc- tion of the Association for the Preservation of Vir- ginia Antiquities, in whose charge the ruins have been placed, have revealed the foundations of two churches, one larger and inclosing the other. The other struc- tures on the Island consist of the old Ambler mansion said to be built on the foundations of the ancient House of Burgesses, a few modern farm houses, and three large earth works of the Civil War. Efforts are being made to obtain an appropriation from Congress for the purchase and preservation of the Island, with the idea of having it made into a National Park. It is seven miles from Williamsburg, to which point the Capital of the Colony was removed after the destruc- tion of Jamestown by Bacon. The Island consists of about 1600 acres and is the property of Mrs. Louise Barney of Meadowville, Va. A few years ago she con- veyed by deed of gift, twenty-two acres to the Asso- ciation for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, within which area are the ruins of the old Church re- ferred to and the remains of the fortifications of the Civil War. CLAREMONT This is the terminus of the James River division of the Southern Railway which connects with the Main Line at Belfield. The place where the settlement now stands once included a great plantation owned by the Allans. SANDY POINT Across the River from Claremontis Sandy Point, at one time the place of residence of Colonel Phillip Lightfoot, who was a member of the Council of Vir- ginia about 1700. Upon the arrival of the colonists, this was the site of the Indian town of Paspahegh. Col- onel Lightfoot was the ancestor of Light Horse Harry Lee and General Robert E Lee. The house is said to have been built in the year 1717. DANCING POINT The point of land at the junction of the Chicka- hominy and James River is known as Dancing Point. On the marshy banks of the Chickahominy, which rises about fifteen miles to the northwest of Richmond and absorbing all the creeks of a wide section of country, becoming a navigable stream before it joins the James, were fought the battles of Mechanicsville, Gaine's Mill, Cold Harbor, Savage's Station and Seven Pines, the names of which crop out in history. At the head of this River, Captain John Smith was captured, while on a tour of exploration in 1607. LOWER BRANDON This is one of the most famous of the James River Colonial Estates. It dates back to 1617, being patent- ed in that year by Captain John Martin and named by him after Brandon in England. The authorities as to the time of the building of the present Manor house differ. It was doubtless started about 1712 by Nath- aniel Harrison, to whom the property had passed by purchase, and added to extensively by his son. The house has the appearance of being three separate buildings, connected by covered passageways, but in reality it is built on the old plan — so familiar to all of Virginia blood — one large main structure with exten- sive wings. The estate and house were considerably ransacked in war-times, but the occupants managed to pre- serve a large number of treasures. The picture gal- lery of portraits of Lower Brandon is famous and con- tains many canvases formerly the property of Colonel William Byrd of Westover. The house and estate are still owned and occupied by the Harrison family. UPPER BRANDON This was part of the original grant from the Crown to Captain John Martin 1617 which was later divided into two estates called Upper and Lower Brandon. The house to be seen here was erected some sixty years ago by William Byrd Harrison. It was cruelly burnt by the troops during the Civil War and has never been restored to its former fine condition. Upper Brandon, however, is not wholly without her treasures, for in her rooms still stand valuable pieces of antique furniture and on the walls are a few rare pictures. OLD FIELD Is noted principally for the excellent quality of good clay for building-brick. STURGEON POINT Appears to have obtained its name from the large number of sturgeons having been caught in the River nearby. FORT POWHATAN Has a record of having played a part in the War of 1812 and the Civil War. It was shelled by gun boats in 1862. WEYANOKE There are some of the historic river places that are little known except to Virginians or to lovers of her history. Weyanoke is one of these. The original plantation comprised 2200 acres and was owned by Sir George Yeardley who lived opposite at Flower de Hundred. Yeardley sold the place in 1626 and about 1665 it passed into the hands of the Harwoods, descendants of whom still live on a portion of it. The old house, dairy, barn and kitchen are still standing, some dis- tance back from the river, and some records tell us that they were built by Samuel Harwood in 1740. On Weyanoke Point stands the old yellow brick house which until very recently was believed to be the earliest complete structure of its kind in this section of the country. It was evidently the original house in the early days of the first claim and is still in excellent repair. It can be plainly seen from the River. FLOWER de HUNDRED This originally was the plantation of Sir George Yeardley, a Colonial Governor of Virginia, who was one of the most prominent and enterprising figures in the Colony. It consisted of 1,000 acres and was repre- sented in the Virginia Legislature in 1619 — the Gover- nor and family lived here until 1626, when he disposed of the property and went to Jamestown. It was at Flower de Hundred that the Dutch slaveship with its memorable cargo deposited half that load that in later generations was to be the cause of political contro- versy and bitter partisan feeling. The house of Flower de Hundred — white and simple — stands back from the river, quaintly garbed in surrounding foliage. WINDMILL POINT This is on the South Shore, at Flower de Hundred, and probably obtained its name from the windmill which stood there during the time of Sir George Yeard- ley. It was here that General Grant laid one of his pontoon bridges, over which 130,000 Federal troops crossed in forty-eight hours. WILCOX A landing near Queen's Creek upon whose banks is Charles City Court House, well-known as being one of the points where some of the Seven Days' fighting occurred. BLAIR'S Is a landing for the many steamers which ply up and down the River. WESTOVER One of the oldest Colonial Estates in Virginia. The grand old mansion erected in 1737 by Colonel William Byrd, stands to-day much as he built it, save for that part which was partially destroyed by fire in 1749. This portion was later rebuilt in fac-simile. Colonel Byrd was succeeded as owner of the estate by his son, Colonel William Byrd Jr., who bore the reputation of being the most polished and learned man of his time within the length and breadth of the New Colony. He is remembered to-day as the founder of two American cities, as the author of the celebrated "Westover Man- uscripts," and as the father of Evelyn Byrd, the famous court beauty and toast of the Old and New World alike. Benedict Arnold made his landing here January 4, 1781, with 900 men, on his march to Richmond, and Cornwallis crossed at this point. It was the head- quarters of Union Generals during the Civil War. JORDAN'S POINT LIGHTHOUSE Near this lighthouse, which is built on a point of land in Prince George County, is one of the principal duckinggrounds of the James River. Theriveriswide and shallow here and affords all kinds of wild water fowl a good feeding place. The light is fixed and white. HARRISON'S LANDING Is the wharf used for the Colonial Estate of Berke- lev. Wt^' lH ' " fitX • C W ' d / » IT* BERKELEY A Colonial Estate on the North Shore at what is sometimes called Harrison's Landing. The planta- tion is first mentioned in Colonial History in 1622, but just when the staid, unpretentious house was built, is a disputed question. The property passed into the hands of the Harrison family about 1676, and remained in their possession until about twenty-five years ago. President William Henry Harrison was born there. To this point General McClellan withdrew after his retreat from Malvern Hill, during the Civil War, and here he remained to reorganize his army until ordered to leave the Peninsula. CITY POINT In Prince George County at the place where the Appomattox joins the James, lies the historic town of City Point. It is the terminus of a branch of the Nor- folk and Western Railway, which connects it with Petersburg, 9 miles distant. Just how it obtained its name is not known, but the records of the County speak of it as City Point as far back as 1720. In 1781 the British force landed here under General Phillips and captured Petersburg. During the Civil War it was an important Military Station for the Federal forces. General Grant had his headquarters here, and President Lincoln was with him when Richmond was evacuated. APPOMATTOX On a high bluff overlooking City Point, stands low- roofed Appomattox, the old homestead of the Eppes. The grant was made to the family in 1635, and the land is still in their possession. In 1751 the original dwell- ing was torn down and the main part of the present house built. It was here that General Grant established his head- quarters in 1865 and remained in possession for half a year. The name the place bears is probably almost as old as the grant itself, and was so called from the fact of its river situation, but the James has for years claimed the place as its own and looked upon it as one of the jewels of its wondrous chain of quaint, his- toric homes. APPOMATTOX RIVER This historic stream which joins the James at City Point is navigable to Petersburg. It is said that the name is obtained from the Appomattox Indians and that in the Algonquin language, Appomattox means "a sinuous tidal estuary." There were a number of fine plantations situated on the banks of this stream, among which was Matoax, the residence of John Ran- dolph, father of John Randolph of Roanoke. BERMUDA HUNDRED Near where the Appomattox River. loses its name, lies Bermuda Hundred. It was laid out in the early part of the Seventeenth Century and was represented in the first General Assembly. The British forces under Generals Pnillips and Arnold returning from Petersburg in 1781, embarked at Bermuda Hundred. It was previous to this, before the upper portion of the River was deepened, an important shipping point and the port of Richmond for large vessels. In 1864 General Butler retreated to this place, which is now , the terminus of the Farmville and Powhatan Railroad. SHIRLEY This is the home of the Carters and stands on a strip of land jutting into the River. It commands per- haps one of the best views to be obtained of the his- toric stream. The m=nor house is supposed to have been erected about 1650, and unlike Westover or the Brandons, lacks the corridor or the flanking wings. It has suffered less from war than most of the James River places and has bren doubly fortunate, since its gener- ations of owners have had sufficient means not only to cultivate the acres of outlying fields, but the "yard" of the house itself. The estate of Shirley was first occupied in 1613 and was originally called West Shirley Hundred. It came into possession of the Carter family in 1720 upon the death of Colonel Edward Hill, its owner, who left the place to his sister Elizabeth Carter. It is still in the possession of the family. Shirley MALVERN HILL Each tract of land surrounding the old colonial homes on the James River is freighted with remem- brances of the great Civil War, and perhaps none more so than Malvern Hill. It figured in the Revolu- tion, the war of 1812, and here was fought that desper- ate and bloody battle between McClellan and Lee in 1862. Through all these years of strife, the substantial old house was left practically unharmed, It was built early in the Eighteenth Century and in the annals of the State it is recorded as "one of the best specimens of old colonial architecture" on the River. TURKEY BEND This name is given to a portion of the river between Curl's Neck and Malvern Hill. Here were gathered the gunboats which protected General McClellan's movements, when he took refuge at Malvern Hill after the Seven Day's Battle. PRESQUE ISLE Another name for Turkey Bend. CURL'S NECK This point of land was originally divided up into small farms, and chief among its inhabitants in 1676 was the renowned Nathaniel Bacon, Jr. It was later one of the Randolph family's river estates. The present owner is Charles H.Senff who built the hand- some house standing high on the bluff a little back from the River. DEEP BOTTOM Is the place in front of which a Union War Vessel was destroyed, with considerable loss of life, during the Civil War. MEADOWVILLE Is on the west side of Jones' Neck, where is lo- cated the handsome estate of Mrs. L. J. Barney. TUCKAHOE This is one of the Randolph Estates and was long connected with that family. The house stands on a bluff from which the ever shifting and ever beautiful lights upon the River may be seen. As far as can be learned, Tuckahoe was built by one William Ran- dolph, of Turkey Island about 1720 and is believed to be the first frame manor house ever erected in the Old Dominion State. As compared with stately Shirley or massive Westover, the exterior of Tuckahoe is almost insignificant, and yet its very plainness is a charm. It is the interior that commands the chief admiration of the lovers of the beautiful. The house is built in the form of the letter "H," a style not at all uncommon among the early wooden structures to be found throughout Virginia. VARINA OR AIKEN'S LANDING It is claimed that here resided John Rolfe and Poca- hontas after their marriage. The settlement was burned to the ground by forces under Benedict Arnold. During the War of 1861-65, it was a favorite rendez- vous for the exchange of prisoners. Tuck ah oe DUTCH GAP AND FARRAR'S ISLAND Farrar's Island, named after William Farrar, who patented it, was formerly part of the mainland and known as the Peninsula. It was in i6it that Sir Thom- as Dale left Jamestown and went up the River in search of a site to locate a new town. He selected what is now Farrar's Island and established "Henrico," but the place cid not flourish. In 1619 it was reported as containing only "two or three old houses, a poor ruin- ated church, with some few poor buildings in the isl- and." As a protection to the new town, Dale cut a ditch across the neck and built strong palisades along its banks. This was undoubtedly the beginning of the present Dutch Gap Canal which shortens navigation of the River by seven miles. It is claimed that the name Dutch Gap is derived from the similarity of the ditch dug by Dale, to the ditches made by the natives of Holland, when campaigning. The course of the River at ihis point is exceedingly tortuous and in order to avoid Howlett's Battery lo- cated on the extreme end of Farrar's Island, the Un- ion forces under General Benjamin F. Butler started, in 1864 to complete the work commenced by Dale, so as to make a passage by water to the River above. The canal was nearly completed, when for military reasons orders were given to stop work. In 1879 it was finish- ed and made navigable by the combined efforts of the United States Government and the City of Richmond. It is 481 feet long, 250 feet wide and has an average depth at low tide 15 feet. CHAFFIN BLUFF On the east side, next to Fort Harrison, and op- posite Drewry's Bluff, is the place which Butler sur- prised September 29, 1864, and captured. The next day General Lee failed in his endeavor to recapture it. CHATSWORTH Another of the Randolph Estates. It was formerly the seat of Peter Randolph, member of the Council and Surveyor General of the Customs (died 1767,) and also the birthplace of Beverly Randolph, Governor of Virginia. The original estate has been divided, bought and sold, and the original house razed by fire years ago. The present house was erected about eighty years ago. It is big and quaint, and built on a plan long since given up among the more pretentious homes — one room deep with great pillars and old time entrances. DREWRY'S BLUFF Seven miles from Richmond. It was the scene of a hot struggle in May 1862 when the Union fleet en- deavored to force their way to Richmond. It is some- times called Fort Darling, but more often Drewry's Bluff after Major A. H. Drewry of the Confederate Army. WILTON This old honse was built early in the Eighteenth Century by Col. William Randolph, the son ol Turkey Island fame, and is in a remarkably good state of pres- ervation. Here the poei, Innes Randolph, lived, and here in earlier years lived that other well-known Wil- ton figure, Anne Randolph, who was known to all her friends and to her State as Nancy. The paneled hall at Wilton is a thing of beauty, and will remain a joy to all who look upon it as long as the big house stands. There are two entrances, for the big hall runs the depth of the house, and one can look from door to door out across the distant fields or to the River as it flows silently along. AMPTHILL This was the estate of Colonel Archibald Cary, who was Chairman of the Committee which drafted the first Declaration of Rights and State Constitution in America in 1776. The house, a fine square brick build- ing, is still standing, but unlike the majority of the historic James River homes, it faces east and west, instead of north and south, so that its side windows alone overlooked the placid stream. It was probably built between 1730 and 1750 by Henry Cary, the father of the patriot, and who is per- haps best remembered as the designer of the original Capitol and Governor's Palace, at Williamsburg. State Capitol, Richmond WARWICK An old chimney standing on the west bank near the colonial estate of Ampthill marks the site of the old village of Warwick, which was established prior to Richmond. During the Revolution it was a place of much importance. Here were warehouses, mills, storehouses, rope-walks, etc., which were all destroyed by the British in 1781. Warwick Park, directly oppo- site, is devoted to local excursions from Richmond. MANCHESTER Opposite Richmond, is Manchester which is a grow- ing and thriving manufacturing city and connected with the Capitol by several bridges. The two cities, while under separate local administration are one in interest and make part of one municipality. RICHMOND The "City on the James" can claim the distinction of being the oldest of the cities of importance on the American Continent. The James River was explored by Captain Newport and John Smith and the site now occupied by the city, visited in 1607. In 1609 an outpost was established here, but the town was not begun until 1737. It was laid out by Colonel William Byrd of Westover and in- corporated by law in 1742. In 1779 the seat of government was transferred here from Williamsburg. An attractive City after the Revolutionary War, and the residence of the same great families of the Old Dominion, it became one of the most fashionable cities of the Country. It was the stronghold of the Confed- eracy during the Civil war, and its successive invest- ments by the Union forces give it place among the historic sieges of the World. The city is built upon seven hills and abounds in ornamental buildings; and since it has become a rail- road centre and the head of navigation on the James River, it has developed immense commercial interests. Capitol Square, the site of the public buildings, contains the Capitol or State House of Virginia, the Governor's Mansion, the Library Building, the Wash- ington Monument, -Statues of Henry Clay and Stone- wall Jackson. Among the other buildings of the City, is St. Johns Church built in 1740, and later made famous by Pat- rick Henry. At Oakwood Cemetery thousands of Confederates are buried and also at Hollywood. At the latter Cem- etery are the graves of Monroe and Tyler, Presidents of the United States, also Generals Hill, Pickett, Stu- art, Wise, and Commodore Maury. THE Old Dominion L,ine's new steamers ' ' Berkeley ' ' and ' ' Brandon ' ' which perform the (daily) night service be- tween Richmond and Norfolk afford an opportunity for a trip which should not be overlooked. "In kingdoms," says Bacon, "the first foundation or plantation is of more noble dignity and merit than all that fol- loweth." The first foundation and plantation of this vast country was on the James River, and the visitor at Norfolk, Old Point and vicinity is rightly moved when he boards the staunch steamer starting from Norfolk and leaves it at the ' ' City on the James." It is a beautiful sail up an historic stream, and by old and stately mansions that were the country homes of a cultured and courtly race. ' ' Berkeley ' ' and ' ' Brandon ' ' are magnificent vessels 213 feet long, 36 feet breadth of beam, 17 feet depth of hold, loading 500 tons of cargo on a draft of 12 feet. They have accommodations for 54 first class and 48 steerage passengers, a speed of 15 miles, and perform a nightly service between Richmond and Norfolk. " Berkeley' and " Brandon," the Latest Additions to the Old Dominion Line Fleet MILEAGE NORFOLK TO RICHMOND AND RETURN j6®=Read Down. Statute Miles. 25 29 30 36 39 39 47 48 57 60 61 62 62 61 64 65 70 72 72 73 74 75 ■ 77 79 81 84 84-5 86 86.5 98 100 101 102 108 109 1 10 Night Steamers 'BERKELEY" and "BRANDON' Norfolk (O. D. Wharf) Hospital Light Craney Island Bush's Bluff. Middle Ground Newport News Pagan Creek White Shoal Light Dav's Point Point of Shoal Light Ferguson's Deep Water Shoal Light Hog Isiand Light King's Mill Wharf. Scotland Wharf. Jamestown Island Dancing Point Sand3" Point, Chicahomin3- River. Claremont Lower Brandon Ritchie's Wharf. Tree Point Oldfield Wharf Wilson's Landing Sturgeon Point Fori Powhatan Weyanoke Florida Hundreds Windmill Point Wilcox's Wharf. Blair- Westover Berkele} 7 , or Harrison's Landing.. Jordan's Point Light City Point Appomattox River Bermuda Hundreds Shirley Malvern Hill Turkey Bend Piesque Isle Cur s Neck Deep Bottom Meadowville Varina, or Aiken's Landing Dutch Gap Chaffin's Bluff Drewrv's Bluff, or Fort Larling .... Wilton Warwick Richmond Read^S^ft Up. Statute Miles. 116 "5 in no l°5 77 77 69 68 59 57 56 55 54 54 53 52 5i 46 44 44 43 42 4i 39 37 35 32 31-5 3° 29.5 28 2S 27 JUL OX IW£ f9 YEUOfo TAVERN i#«^ KING . x WILLIAMj ROUTES OFSTEAMERS' Virginia envision OLD DOMINION LINE„ ©to Bommton g>teamsl)tp Company aftrgani^cft 1867 Main Line Division NEW YORK-VIRGINIA Longest Daily All-Water Line in the World Sailing from New York, daily, except Sunday, for OLD POINT COMFORT NORFOLK PORTSMOUTH NEWPORT NEWS RICHMOND, VA. WASHINGTON, D. C. Sailing from Norfolk for New York, daily, except Sunday Connections with Rail and Water Lines to and from All Points in South and West. Through Tickets and Baggage Checks VIRGINIA DIVISION Steamers operate on waters of Hampton Roads, James, Back, Poquosin, East, Ware, North, Severn and Nansemond Rivers NORTH CAROLINA DIVISION Steamers operate on Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds, Neuse, Pamlico, Pungo and Tar Rivers. General Offices: 81-85 Beach St., New York, N. Y. W. I,. GUILLAUDEU H. B. WALKER President Traffic Manager J. J. BROWN, General Passenger Agent M. B. CROWELL, General Agent, Norfolk, I 'a. JOHN F. MAYER, Agent, Richmond, I 'a. r- Old Dominion Line: «*v#*»y. ! '. Alon James River