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C3r.A.S M.A.CHI3VI3S. Portland & Boston STEAMERS. DAILY LINE THROUGHOUT / THE YEAR. < Mir nt ilir "itiiumh iiiul reliable sido-'vhcel Franklin Whf., Portland,'-' India Whf,, Boston, Dally, (SiiiKlays Excepted.) Ltiivc I'lirHuml uU the year round nt 7 P. M. Leave Itostim in suinaier at 7 I'. M., and in winter at .■■> P. M. PusscnK-ers i)y tliisllnesceurea (food nijfiit's rest, and save tiotel and ntlier expense?;, — wtiile tlie los^ of time in dnjr tra\ clinf^ isavoideil. Arrival Is made in sea- son fur connection with all divcrifinK lines. Excursion Tickets to all 'Pleasure 'Resorts at Low 'Rales. WM. WEEKS, ACT., BOSTON, I, F. LISCOMB, G, T. AGT., PORTLAND, J, B. COYLE, JR., GEN. AGT., PORTLAND. Take the Popular Portland & Worcester Line, -roK- Mancliester, Concord, Nashua, Lowell, Worcester, Springfield, And nil point., Soulli and Wewl. No ("nrriimc Triiiisrcrs ! Hnpid Trniisil ! KloKiiiit Passenger Cuaclics! No Cliaiige of Cars lietween Porttiind and Worcester. Tlal TU ket Olllees. IiaKuii;{e Checked Tlirou;;)!. Depot in Portland, FOOT OF PREBLE ST. Till' nio<( ct'titiiil loi'Hiioii oT an>' In llie cltv . J. W. PETERS, Gen. Pass. Apt. GEO. K. WESTCOTT, Supt., Portland, Mo. E CENTRAL Railroad Is the only Kail-Uoute Between Portland and Bangor, \Vl»h Its own Line mid Connections renehes all parts of the State east of Portland. It nnit<'s, \}\ int-ans of the PROVINCIAL AND NEW ENGLAND ALL-RAIL LINE, The Maritime I'rovinees id tlie I'nited States, and is also the route to the KesorLs of Mooseiiead and the Kanf.'-eiey Ijalvcs, .-Vrooslooli County, lloothliay. .Mt. llesert, St. John, Halifax, tlie .Nliniiiff ItcM'ion of Eastern Maine, Ktc, Send for Kxcursion filst and Tinie-Tables. Reduced Hates for all parts of the I*ro\'inces. PAYSON TUCKER, Supt. /'. F.. IIOOTIl/n; G.H. TUk,! .\i;,,il. I'orllnml, Mr. PREBLE HOUSE. Enlarged from the An- cient Mansion of Com- modore Preble, of Naval Fame, and now known as one of the best Ho- tels in the City. ■SEE PAGE 58. 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The early voyagers, as they skirted along the shores of Maine, in the twilight hours of discovery, were charmed with its secure harbors and noble rivers, where sheltered groves and grassy banks lured them to the land. In the attractions of calm waters, and sunny isles clothed with a luxuriant forest, the bay of which we write excelled all others. Captain John Smith, the first of Maine tourists, in his account of his famous summer trip along our shores, in 1614, thus describes it : " Westward of Kennebec is the Country of Aucocisco, in the bottom of a deep bay full of many great isles, which divide it into many great harbors." This was Casco £ay, the present name of which is a corrujjtion of the Indian word Aucocisco^ which, accord- ing to some authorities, signifies " a resting place," though others give it the interpretation of crane or heron. In view of the many halcyon retreats from toil and care which its islands afford, the former would seem to be the more appropriate designation, though the water fowl indicated by the latter still frequent the bay. One can imagine the delight, when this land was new and clothed with the glamour of surprise, of sailing from the surges of the Atlantic into the sheltered roadsteads of this bay, along the green shores of its forest-crowned islands and out-reaching peninsulas, far into the heart of the land, where the placid waters reflected in their cool depths the verdant foliage which over- hung them, in the silence and seclusion of a solitude unbroken save by the songs of birds of varied plumage flitting through "the forest primeval." No element of beauty was wanting to this miniature archipelago, and the native inhabitants, who had an eye for sunny spots and grassy glades, made it a place of frequent resort. They found in its waters an inexhaustible supply of provisions, and the evidences of their feasts still remain in the heaps of clam-shells found on 'the shores of the islands. Here is a little bay, extending from Cape Elizabeth to Cape Small Point, a distance of about eighteen iniles, with a depth of about twelve miles, more thickly studded with islands than any water of like extent on the coast of the United States. Unlike the low, sandy islands of the Massachusetts coast, these are of the most picturesque forms, while bold is POBTLAXD A.\D VfCIXITY. headlands and peninsulas jut far out into the waters. There is the greatest possible variety in the forms and grouping of these islands. Some lie in clusters, sonic are coupled togetlicr by connecting sand-bars, bare at low- water, while others are solitary and alone. Nearly all of them are indented with beautiful coves, and crowned with a mingled growth of in:i])li-, oak, beech, pine and fir, extending often to the water's edge, and reflected in many a deep inlet and winding channel. In the thick covert of the firs and spruces are many green, sunny spots, as sheltered and remote as if far inland, while beneath the wide-spreading oaks and beeches are jileasant walks and open glades. These islands are of all sizes, from the little rocky islet, covered by the sea at high tide, to those which contain thousands of acres and hundreds of inhabitants. Though some of tliem present bold headlands, there is nothing barren or desolate in their aspect. For the most part they rise like mounds of verdure from the sea, forest-crowned, and from their summits one may behold on the one hand the waves of the Atlantic, breaking almost at his feet, and on the other, the jilacid waters of the bay, spangled by multitudi- nous gems of emerald, while in the dim distance he discerns, on the liorizon, the sublime peaks of the White Mountains. It is impossible to conceive of any combination of scenery more charming, more romantic, more captiva- ting to the eye, or more suggestive to the imagination. It is a popular legend that the islands in Casco Bay nuinljcr three hun- dred and sixty-five, a compliment to the days of the year which is also commonly attributed to Lake George, Lake Winnepesaukee, and several other bodies of water. Whence it had its origin it is impossible to say, since numerous as are these islands it is not difficult to count them. If we take down the chart and run our eye over it we see the islands fall naturally into three divisions or ranges, which we will set down in their order, beginning each with the island nearest Portland, and running eastward : IxxER Kaxgi:. — Mackay's, The Brothers (-2), Ten Pound, Clapboard, .Stunlevaiit, Basket, Cousins, J^ittlejohn's, Lane's, Moshier's(;i), Crab, Bil)b(.'r's, Silver (4), two unnamed. MiDDLK Raxce. — Hog or Diamond (2), Cow, Crow Knob, Chebeague (2), Crow, Irony, Goose Nest, Little Green, French, Wlialeboat (2), (ioose ("2), Goslin (2), Shelter, Birch, White's, four unnamed. OiTKK IIan<;e. — House, Cushing's, Ham, Peaks', Pumjikin Knob, Over- set, Marsh, Long, Ste])])ing Stones (3), Hope, Crotch, Jewell's, Sand, Outer Green (2), Broken Cave (3), Bates', Ministerial, Stave, Little Bangs, Stock- man's, Whale Rock, Haddock Ledge, Mark, Eagle, Ujipcr Flag, Horse, Birch, Haskell's, Turni]), Ja<|uisl), Bailey's, Orr's, Jebaskadiggin, Pond, Bam No. 2, Cedar (6), Elm (2), Bagged, Bold Dick, White Bull, Little Bull, Sisters (2), Mark No. 2, Brown Cow, (looseberry. Wood (2), Burnt Coat, POBTLAND AND VICINITY. Jameson's Ledge, Lower Flag, Horse No. 2, Malaga, Bear, Rogue, one un- named, Jenny's, Yarmouth, two unnamed, Pote, Hopkins', Bateman's, Long No. '1, three unnamed. Here are one hundred and twenty-two islands and islets, and we have perhaps left uncounted many rocks and reefs which might be made to swell the number, but it probably would not extend beyond one hundred and thirty-six". Many of the names of these islands are curious. Some are derived from early proprietoi-s, others owe their origin to some trifling incident or a characteristic feature, while a few, like Chebeague and Jebaskadiggin, are of the aboriginal tongue. They are all homely and unromantic enough, but are not easily changed. Hog Island, which, though so inelegantly named, is one of the most beautiful in the bay — "The gem of Casco's lovely isles," has been so called since 1634, though it is now beginning to be known as Diamond Island, a name long applied to the largest of its many coves. The bay is almost as remarkable for its peninsulas as for its many islands. At its western extremity, between the sheltered waters of Foi-e River and Back Cove, extends the Neck on which Portland is built. At the eastern end the long narrow peninsula of Harpswell stretches far out into the quiet waters, flanked by many islands. The land here is very much broken, the islands cluster thickest, and the mainland reaches out many fingers, between which creeks and inlets and tidal rivers extend far inland. The shore is fringed with picturesque " Points." The Presumpscot River brings down in a full stream, the waters of Sebago Lake, and discharges them at a point a little north of Portland harbor. The waters of the bay present as many attractions to fishermen and sportsmen as do the islands to the seekers after health and recreation. The early voyagers found them full of fish. Hither came Capt. John Smith in pursuit of whales, though he caught not many. The early settlers, when they met to talk over the wonders of the new land, told marvellous tales of the strange creatures found in the bay. Jocelyn, who was here in 1639, tells of one Mitton, a great fowler, who encountered a triton, or mereman, in its waters. As he was fetching a compass about a small island for the advan- tage of a shot, the creature laid its hands upon the side of the canoe, where- upon the said Mitton actually chopped one of them off with a hatchet, and he solemnly averred that it was in all respects like the hand of a man. The triton presently sank, dyeing the waters with its purple blood, and unfortu- nately his like has never since been seen. Jocelyn, too, makes the first mention of the sea serpent on our coast, seen coiled up like a cable on a rock at Cape Ann. This monster must therefore be considered an ancient inhabitant of our waters, and Casco Bay is one of its favorite haunts. It has frequently been encountered off Cape Elizabeth, and we have good authority for saying that it has even paid our harbor a visit within a few years past. 6 ruUTLASD AXD virisiiy. On a ledge in tlie inner bay, off the shore of FahnonUi, the seals still breed, and sport in the calni waters. More real is the jiresence of the pug- nacious sword-fish, in the pursuit of which our fishermen find not only sport but profit, since its flesh is by many esteemed a delicacy, and finds a ready sale in our market. Of the other edible iisli there is great .abundance and variety. The earliest inhabitants made great profit by catching fish and drying them on Richmond's Island, and for more than two hundred years House Island has been the scene of similar operations. Looking from some headland, on a bright summer day, it is a beautiful sight to see, on the horizon, the white sails of the mackerel fleet standing out against the blue sky. Here, too, the oleaginous porgy is pursued by steamers, while the fishermen catch for the market, cod, pollock, hake, haddock, and halibut. Along the rocky shore the cunner or sea-perch, best of pan fish, is caught, and furnishes tlie substantial dish of many a feast on the rocks, while in the creeks and inlets the silvery smelt .abounds. Of sea fowl there is still no lack, though they are not so abundant as fifty or even twenty-five years ago, when off Bald Head, an outer promon- tory at the south-eastern extremity of the bay, flocks might be seen passing for days together. From the middle of A])ril to the middle of May great numbers of old squaws (pin-tail ducks) fly into the bay in the morning, through Ilussey's Sound, to feed, and out again at night, to rest on the ocean. Then the gunners station themselves in boats, in a line from Long Island to Peaks' Island, and shoot at the birds as they fly over. A few geese are occasionally shot, but the shooting of coots (surf or velvet ducks) affords more extensive sport than any other during A])ril and May. These are shot over decoys and in flying past points of land and over bars. Bald Head is a great resort of sportsmen, for there the coots, which will not fly over the mainland when migrating, may be shot in passing. Wi, Iking along the solitary outer shores the lonesome cry of the loon is often heard, and they are sometimes seen in flocks of five or ten. The long legged heron may be met at times stalking along the shore in search of fish, and the ospray, or fishing eagle, builds its nest on some t.-ill tree, and catches its prey by darting uiion them when near the surface of the water. For many years this bay li:is been a pleasure ground, the resort of lovers of the picturesque, as well .as those in pursuit of fish and game. How many j)leasaiit associations cluster around the recollections of the ])ic-nic parties at Diamond Cove, or fishing excursions farther down the bay. W-.\.v by year the stream of summer visitors increases. An .afternoon triji to the isl.aiuls is the daily recreation of our citizens in the summer season. The extension of our railroad system now enables excursion parties, numbering many liundreds, to come from jfoints fifty miles distant in the country and s]iend a day in the enjoyment of the refreshing sea breezes of our bay, returning home at iiiu'lil. I-'roni Canada and >itlur dislaiil points come PORTLAND AND VICINITY. visitors who make a longer staj^, filling to overflowing the numerous hotels and boarding-houses on Cushing's, Peaks', and Little Chebeague Islands, and finding health and recreation in sea bathing and fishing. Parties camping out dot with their white tents the shores of Little Diamond, Cushing's and Peaks', and the more distant and secluded islands of the bay. In the height of the season there have probably been at times as many as five hundred people camping out on the islands of Casco Bay. The building of summer cottages has begun, and before the lapse of many years it must become one of the most frequented summer resorts on our coast. Many steamers now fret its waters in the summer season, and fleets of pleasure yachts frequent its secure roadsteads. In beauty of scenery, in wide ocean views, healthful breezes, and facili- ties for boating, bathing and fishing, it offers a most desirable place for the recreation of visitors, and the happiness of its permanent inhabitants. How delightful to sail through this enchanting bay, steering now hither .and now thither, as caprice impels or as perpetually changing views attract us. We may thread the intricate channels of the lower bay, where land and water mingle in delightful confusion ; we may sail through the calm waters of Broad Soiuid, past the out-lying Jewell's Island, where it is said Capt. Kidd buried a portion of that great ill-gotten fortune which he scat- tered so lavishly over the world ; we may pass into Luckses Sound in view of the lofty, forest-crowned Hope Island, and entering the passage between Long Island and Great Chebeague, — largest of the group, containing over two thousand acres, — touch at Little Chebeague, and so skirting the shores of Long Island and crossing Hussey's Sound, catching a glimpse of Diamond Cove, that dimple of beauty in a Hog's snout, pass through Hog Island Roads, with the green shores of Peaks' Island on one hand and the rocky wall of Hog Island on the other, and entering Portland Harbor see, at its head, the city, like " a sea Cybele, fresh from ocean, Rising with her tiara of proud towers, At airy tlistance, with majestic motion, A ruler of the waters aud their powers." PORTLAND A.\D VIC/.XITY. POETL jJl 1 \ AJ» HISTORY. Settled in 1I5",2 — Population, by census of 1870,31,418; by census of 1880,33,810 Area, 1,60(5 acres; includinj^ islands, 4.()0'J. North latitude 43 deg. , 39 min., 27 sec; west loiii;itude from Greenwich 70 deg., 1") min., 40 sec. A.sscssed valuation, 1880: real estate, §19,777,200; personal estate, .$11,376,456 — total, $31,153,656. The two centuries ;in'^ l(i3'J to Ki'.lll, and covers tlie time of settlement and of destruction by the Indians. .\t its beginning we find George Cleeves and Ilichard Tucker, driven liy .lolm Winter from the jiroprictors' lands at the mouth of the Spurwink, making a new home for themselves on the sliorcs of the wooded ]ieninsnla jutting out into the (juiet waters sheltered by Cape Elizabeth, on wliieh now stands the city of Porllnnd. Cleeves l;inded on the- bc:icli now covered by the made land of the (irand Trunk ]{ailway, :it .i poini .i little east iif the fool of H.incock street, where a small brook niade its wav into PORTLAyV AND VICINITY. 9 the bay. Here he built the first house nud planted the first corn, his field extending westward to Clay Cove. Our first settler was a restless, ambi- tious and self-willed man, long jjrominent here ; his partner Richard Tucker was of a more quiet dis];iosition, and attended to the trading, while Cleeves devoted himself to public affairs. At first they were squatters, but in 1637 Cleeves went to England and obtained from Sir Ferdinando Gorges, the pro- jirietor of this part of Maine, a grant of the peninsula on which he had built, and other neighboring lands and islands. These he proceeded to parcel out to settlers who sought the place, and a scattered community grew up on the edge of the wilderness. It was long without government, and the morals which prevailed were not of the highest order. The peojsle devoted them- selves principally to fishing, and cheating the Indians in the purchase of their furs. Beaver skins constituted their chief currency. They were roughly clad and coarsely fed. They lived in temporary shelters of logs, filled in with clay, or in houses of one story, with thatched roofs and wooden chimneys. The impenetrable forest was behind them, the open ocean before them, and this was their highw.ay and the chief source of their sustenance. They had no roads, and when they traveled by land to Massachusetts they crept along the seashore on the beaches, which were the first highways. The settlement came to be known as Casco! In 1658 Massachusetts usurped the government of this territory and gave the na\)ie of Falmouth to the town, but this portion of it continued to be called Casco Neck until its incorporation as Portland in 1786. Falmouth comprised, in .addition to the Neck, the territory now occupied by the towns of Cape Elizabeth, Deering, Westbrook and Falmouth. Of course with Mas.sa- chusetts rule came the imperative order for the settlement of a minister, and the people built the first meeting-house on the point now occupied by the Portland Company's works. There ofliciated the Rev. Mr. Burroughs, a man so amiable and generous-hearted that the enlightened people of Salem afterwards hanged liim for a wizard. The settlement grew but slowly. In 167.5 there were only forty fami- lies in town, of which but four or five lived on the Neck, then mostly covered with a dense forest. During these forty or fifty years the Indians, who from the first had received them hospitably, dwelt in peace with these new comers. In return, all along this coast, they had been outrageously wronged by vagabond and luipiinciplcd white men, and at last the day of wrath came. In 167.5 King Philip arose to avenge the wrongs of his oad to Massachusetts. 10 POHTLAND AND VICIMTY. Fust Chufcn in Portland. j)eojile, and in the following year the blow fell upon Fahnouth. All the settlements in the town were ravaged, and the inhabitants who had not previously sought refuge in more secure places were killed or carried into captivity, and tlie place was entirely de- stroyed. The town remained desolate until the peace of 1G78, when the inhabitants be- gan to return and build up the waste ])laces. Fort Loyal, the largest fortification on the coast, was erected on a rocky eminence near the foot of India street, where the round- house of the Grand Trunk Railway now stands, and Falmouth became a frontier post. Government commissioners reallotted the land to new settlers, and the old proprietors quarreled with them about it. \ new element in the population was added by the accession of a ]»arty of French Huguenots. The town began to prosj)er again. Mills were set up and inroads were made on the forest. Trade in fish and lumber was opened with the towns in Massachusetts. Roads were laid out, though they were mere foot-|)aths througli the forest, — no vehicles having been introduced. In lOSl the first tavern was opened, and licensed to sell si)irituous liquors, the intercourse u]) to this time having been so limited that no inn Avas needed. In 1688 the population had increased to six or seven liundred, com])ris- ing eighty families, twenty-five of whom were living on the Neck. Then came the second Indian war, caused partly by the failure of the English to fulfil their treaty stipulations with the In- dians, and partly by the instigation of the Frcjnch. In 1089 tlie timely arrival of Major Church, with a force of volunteer troops and friendly Indians, saved the town from destruction. A battle was fought on the farm of Anthony Brackett, under Bram- hall's Ilill, in which the Indians were de- feated and driven off, the whites suffering a loss of eleven killed and icii wounded. Next year, 1000. the French and Indians came down five hundred strong, killed I.ieiitemmt Clark and his scouting ]);irty of thii-teen men on Jlunjoy's llili. cMpiured Fort Loyal after a siege of five days, and carried Captain Davis, commander of the fort, and his surviving garrison ca])tives to (Quebec. Thus the Neck was again made desolate, became a thoroughfare for the savage and a resort for beasts of prey, and for many years was known only as "deserted Casco." The war continued until 1008, after wliirli a few old settlers straggled back to their desolated homes. The center of ]iopulation and defence now >liifte quality " lookcd down upon those engaged in mechanical eiu|iloynients, and (lisported themselves in cocked hats, bush wigs, and red cloaks. Dandies made themselves gorgeous in embroidered silk vests with long j)Ocket flaps, and ruffles on their breasts and over their liaiids, and even little boys had their heads shaved and wore wigs, as well as buckskin breeches, common to all. In the midst of increasing refinement and wealth came the great trial of the Revolution. Our ])eo])le, who liad fought the Indians and tlie French, were now brought into deadly conflict with their own countrymi'u. They were patriots and stood iij) boldly for their rights as freemen. When the news of the battle of Lexington reached Falmouth a strong comjiany was immediately sent off to Cam!)riilge ; when the hated stamjis arrived they were seized and burned; when tlie tax was imposed upon tea it was resolved, in jwptdar .assemblage, "that we will not buy nor sell any India tea whatever"; when the English goverinnent closed the port of Boston in 1774, the bell of Fahnuiitli meeting-house was mufllicl and tolled fimcreally PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 13 from sunrise to sunset. There were Tories in the town, but they were out- numbered and put down. For these and other acts of patriotism the town suffered a terrible doom. Piqued at liis capture and detention here the pre- vious spring, by a party of militia from Brunswick, Captain Henry Mowatt returned in October, 1775, with a fleet of five war vessels, and on the eigh- teenth day of that month, a hundred and six years ago, laid the town in ashes. It was always regarded by the townsmen as his personal act, and it was one of great barbarity. The citizens nobly refused to give up their arms, and Mowatt opened his batteries on the defenceless town, and not content with this sent parties on shore to fire the houses. The people fled in terror from their homes, taking with them what they could carry of their household goods. All the compact part of the town was destroyed, em- bracing 41-4 buildings, the whole loss being estimated at about £55,000 ; only 100 dwelling-houses were left standing, many of which were much THM (no.T) S a T U R D /\ Y. Ja.n\ta>7 I. l;r85. (^^\.\) Miniature fac-simile of Heading of first Newspaper published in Maine. damaged. The place was again deserted, many of the inhabitants removing to the country, and the few who remained among the ruins suffering great 'privations. Thus, for the third time, the town was made desolate, and so ends the second period of its history. The third opens with the peace of 1783 and ends with the war of 1812. It was the period of commercial expansion and rapid increase of wealth, ending with the first of those financial disasters of which the country has since had frequent experience. With the establishment of national inde- pendence new energies were awakened, and new ideas began to prevail. Distinctions of rank and of dress gave way before the democratic spirit of the times ; cocked hats, bush wigs, and breeches passed out, and pantaloons came in. Captain Joseph Titcomb created quite a sensation when he re- turned home from the South, in 1790, wearing the latter form of the nether garment, — the first seen here. A sudden impulse to business was given by 14 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. the close of the war. Population gradually increased. In 1784 there were built on the Neck forty-one dwelling-houses, ten stores, and seven slio])s. In 17X5 the first hrick liouse in town was coniniciiced, and the same year aj>])eared the first newspajier, "Tlie Falmouth Gazette," published bv Ben- jamin Tilconib and Thomas B. Waite. In 1786 the town was divided, and the Neck, with the name of Portland, started on an inde|ieiulent career, with a population of about "J,!)!!!). In 17il3 wharves were extended into the harbor. In 1795 Nathaniel Deering built the first brick store. In 1799 the first bank was incorporated. Trade advanced westward from the old site at the foot of India street, and in 1800 Exchange (then called Fish) street was the principal seat of business. The ])0])ulation by this time had in- creased to 3,704, and in 1810 it had reached 7,169. A desirable class of residents came in, bringing capital with them. Our merchants, no longer content with a coasting trade, engaged in foreign commerce. Lumber and fish continued to be the jjrincipal exports, but ships were also built and sent on freighting voyages. From 1795 to 1805 the growth of the town in com- mercial l)usiness atid general j>ros)ierity was unexaiiiiilod in New England. Dr. Dwight, visiting the jilace in 1797, wrote: "No American town is more entirely commercial, and of course none is more sprightly." The tonnage, wliich in 1789 amounted to but .5,000, in 1807 had reached 30,000. The duties collected at the Custom House increased from §8,109 in 1790 to ?i34'2,909 in ISiKi. NMi)oleon Bonaparte had thrown all Europe into war, and American bottoms, as being declared neutrals, monojiolized the carry- ing trade. Portland shiji-owners jMofited accordingly and fortunes were ra]ii(lly made. With the increase of wealth came greater refinement and a more lavish style of living. In 1801 our rich merchants began to build for themselves hirge and elegant houses, some of which still remain to us, the square, old- fashioned mansions, of noble front, with wide halls running through them, admitting, in the rear, into large, high-fenced gardens, where fruit trees flourished. Of such is the stately Matthew Cobb house, which still stands at the corner of High and Free streets; the mansion built I'y Ebenezer* Storer, corner of High and Danforth streets, now occupied by John Mussey, Es(|., and that built by .Tosepli H. Tngraham, on State street. These, and otliers like llicm, were the best houses in the .State, and some which remain unaltered, like the fine old m:in>inn on the corner of High and Sjiring streets, long the resireviously experimented with steamboats of their own construction, the Kennebec, built by the latter, in 1822, having been the first to run in Casco Bay, but this was the beginning of the suc- cessful application of steam to the navigation of our waters. In 1833 came the Chancellor Livingston, built under the direction of Robert Fulton, and the same year the Cumberland Steam Navigation Company was formed. 16 PORTLAXD AXD VIilXITY. and, in opposition to the Chancellor Livingston, put on the line between Portland and Boston the steamer Commodore McDonough. The Portland Steam Packet Coiniiany was organizi'd in 1844, and its boats have ever since run 'on the route with great regularity and success, — a result largely due to the skillful management of Captain John B. Coyle, a pioneer in steamboat navigation in Maine. Another enterprise, of which the. town had great expectations, never wholly reali/ed, was the construction of tlie Cumberland and Oxford Canal, to connect the waters of Sebago Lake with Portland Harbor, begun in 18-28 and completed in 1830, at an expense of 8206,000, of which s u m 827,000 were raised by a lot- tery granted by the State. The Canal con- tinued in suc- cessful upera- t Ion for many years, but has now, through the extension of our railroad system, fallen into disuse. \n 183-2, the town having then a population of about 13,000, a city charter was granted to ■■■ '" -: ■ f Portland. Middle street had now becdiiu' the jiriiu'ipnl business avenue, esi)ecially of the retail dry-goods trade, lilocks of stores, built of brick and granite, had been erected, — considered spacious in those days, but low and dark as compared with the business structures built since the fire of 1866. About 1840 the city began to experience a depression in business, caused by the revolution in trade centers, brought ;dn)Ut bj' the introduc- tion of railroads. Boston, by the extension of her railroads, had seized upon the trade of Vermont which had formerly come to Portland through PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 17 the Notch of the White Mountains. In 1842 the Portland, Saco and Portsmouth Raih'oad was opened, and that also took business away from the city. It began to be the fashion to say that Portland was " wilting." Visitors spoke of it as a beautiful little city, but a quiet old place. From 1840 to 1846 there was scarcely any increase in the population of the city. It became evident to our business men that it was necessary to seize the weapon which w'as being wielded against them and turn it to their own advantage. Measures were adopted to form railroad connection with the interior. For this purpose a company was formed, and a charter obtained, to construct a railroad to Canada. This brings us to the fifth period in the history of Portland, commenc- ing in 1846 and continuing to the present time. This is the era of rail- roads, and though interrupted by war and conflagration, the prosperity of the city has steadily increased since their introduction. With the hour came the man, in the person of John A. Poor, by whose far-reaching fore- sight, broad grasp of possibilities, and untiring energy, the project of a rail- road to Canada was set on foot. The conception vpas a grand one, but the undertaking seemed overwhelming to a little city of sixteen thousand inhabi- tants. Montreal was three hundred miles away, through mountain ranges, through waste spaces, through sparsely populated regions, deeply encumbered with the snows of winter. Whence was the capital to come? How was a rail- road to be built in the face of such physical obstacles"? Mr. Poor and Wm. Pitt Preble drove over the route in a sleigh, in mid-winter, to prove the possibility of getting through. Our merchants and business men took up the enterprise with enthusiasm ; all classes of citizens joined heartily in the endeavor. It was a revival movement, — a revival of enterprise, a revival of business, a revival of prosperity, — and everybody but a few croakers was converted. The city loaned its credit in bonds to the amount of $2,000,000 ; eleven miles of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence Railroad were opened in 1848, and in 1853 it was finished to its junction with the Canada road from Montreal, — a distance from Portland of 149 miles. The Grand Trunk Railway brought our city into connection not only with the towns and cities of Canada, but with the vast grain-grow- ing regions of the West. Following its completion came, as necessary ad- juncts, a winter line of steamers to Liverpool, and the construction of a John A. Poor. 18 POIiTLAXD ASI) VICIXITY. new business avenue along the whole water-front of the city, — a mile long and one Imnihcd tVct wiile, — running over tide water, across the heads of the wharves, — leaving high and dry old Fore street, so long the water street, the locality of slop-shops and sailor boarding-houses. This new street, — apjiropriately called Commercial,^ is the scene of a heavy whole- sale trade in flour, grain, and groceries, while it also affords railroad com- munication across the front of the city, and with the numerous wharves. Then came the buihling of that system of railroads opening to the trade of Portland all parts of the State, and now consolidated under the name of the Maine Central. Our merchants also opened connection with the east- ern part of the State, and the Lower Provinces, by means of steamboat lines, and thus secured much of the trade which liad formerly gone to Boston. Manufacturing establishments, — like the Portland Company's Works and Brown's Sugar House, — also sprang u]i, and gave employ- ment to hundreds. The city passed through the panic of 1857-8 without serious disaster, and trade was reviving again when the war of the Pebcllion came in 18C1. Business then gave way to the demands of j)atriotism. The First Maine Regiment, Colonel Jackson, (six companies of which were raised here), was speedily organized, though the measles prevented its being the first in the field. In response to later calls for volunteers our people were active in organizing other regiments, — especially the 5th, 0th, 10th, 12th, 13th, 17th, and 2'ith ; the latter a nine-months' regiment of Portland boys, led by Colonel Francis Fesscnden. Other recruits followed, Port- land contributing in all 5000 men, to whom she jiaid in bounty ^A'lt^,- P70 : and of whom 421 lost their lives in battle, or by disease. Large contributions were made in aid of the Sanitary and Christian Commis- sions, and many noble women gave their services in nursing the sick and wounded. When, one June morning, in ISna, the U. S. Revenue cutter Caleb Cashing was missed from her anchorage, the Collector of the port, Jede- diah Jewett, in conjunction with the ]\Iayor, Captain Jacob ]\IcLellan. promptly manned and armed the steamers Forest City and Chesajieake, and pursning the rebels who had seized her, found her becalmed near the Green Isian<1s. The rebel commander, Lieutenant Reade, set the cutter on fire, and she blew u]) with a terrific explosion; he and liis crew meantime taking to the boats, to be captured by the ]iursuing steamers and confined in Fort Preble as jirisoners of war. For this ]ironi]it and jiatriotic action the Secretary of the Treasury awarded high praise to Collector Jewett and his associates. The city came out of the war without gre;it loss, though its commercial )irogress had been cheeked by the transfer of much of its shipping to the British flag. The war, however, had given employment to many; money PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 19 was flush, and the city was again entering on a prosperous career, when, for the fourth time in its history, it was laid in ashes and made desolate. On the Fourth of July, 1860, a carelessly thrown fire-cracker set tire to a boat-builder's shop on Commercial, near the foot of High street, and the sparks soon communicated with Brown's Sugar House, wrapping tliat o-reat structure in flames, and speeding onward, spite of all opposition, spreading out like a fan as it went, diago- nally across the city, glowing with a fur- nace heat, melting iron, crumbling stone, wiping out the cost- liest " fire - proof " structures, leaving de- solation in its track ; sweeping away not only whole blocks, but entire streets, massive warehouses, lofty churches, splendid mansions, ancestral homes in the crowd- ed and oldest part of the city ; spreading terror, anguish, and dismay among the whole population, un- til, at last, in the small hours of the morning, it burnt itself out amid the waste spaces at the foot of Munjoy's Hill. That night of terror and destruction will never be forgotten by the people of Portland. The morning saw fifteen hundred buildings laid in ashes ; fifty-eight streets and courts reduced to a wilder- ness of chimneys, amid which the most familiar inhabitant lost himself; ten thousand people made houseless and homeless, and ten millions of property destroyed. For a moment only the energies of the people seemed paralyzed, and then commenced the great work of providing for the house- less and the hungry. Whole villages of tents sprang up on Munjoy, and elsewhere ; barracks were built ; generous contributions from abroad flowed in; the work of rebuilding was begun, — advantage being taken of the opportunity to widen and straighten old streets, and open new ones, — and now, after a lapse of fifteen years, the city stands rebuilt, far handsomer than before the fire. Middle Street in Ru V 20 POJiTLA.XD AM) VHIMTY. Meantime the work of railroad extension has gone on, enlarging the area tributary to the trade of the city, and opening new routes of pleasure travel. In 1S73 the Boston and Maine Kailroad was extended from .South Berwick to Portland, giving easy access to Old Orchard Bench, where a whole village of hotels has since sprung uj). In 187a the Portland and Rochester Railroad completed its connections with Xnshua, K. II., and Worcester, Mass., thus opening a direct route to New York, and saving many miles of travel between Portland and the great metropolis. The same year the Portland and Ogdenslmrg Railroad, — which is to open a new and shorter route to tlio (Jreat West, and bring back some of the lost trade of Vermont, — was com]ileted tlirough the Notch of the White Moun- tains, and commanding as it does the most sublime and beautiful scenery, gave a new impetus to pleasure tr.uil ihrougli Portland. Our merchants now command the trade of a lai'ge portion of the Stale; to a considerable e.vtent they su|)ply Nortiiern New IIam]ishire and Ver- mont, and find customers in the Maritime Provinces and the Canadas. Various branches of Manufacture, — as the rolling of railroad iron, the making of carriages, shoes, matches, stone-ware, and drain-jiijje, have sprung up, and these in-oducts tind a market all over the United States, and to some extent in foreign countries. The city now occupies the wliok- of the i)eninsu].a, from the slopes of Mimjoy to the brow of Braniliall, — mairy elegant residences having within I'OliTLANV AND VWINITY. 21 the past few years been erected in what was once " the swamp Ward," at the west end. The business streets, as well as those devoted to private residences, are handsomely built, lighted with gas, supplied with pure water from Lake Sebago, and well drained. It has thirty-four churches and jjlaces of public worship ; twenty-two well conducted public schools, attended by about six thousand scholars; five daily and nine weekly newspapers, and is well equijiped with charitable, literary, and musical associations. It has six national and two savings banks. The whole number of vessels be- longing to the district in 1881 was 362; aggregate tonnage, 118,025.48, — an increase of about 7,000 tons in five years. The total of foreign imports and exports in 1880 was $'20,024,189, and the transit trade of the port is two or three times larger than in all the other ports of the United States combined. Its harbor is deep, safe, accessible, and spacious. It commands most beautiful and varied scenery, from wide ocean views to the ever- lasting mountains lifting their summits in the distance. As a center of pleasure travel Portland presents unequalled facilities and attractions, — having the seashore at its feet, the mountains at its back ; bay, islands, and inland lakes on either hand. With its dependent suburban villages it is the center of a population numbering not less than 45,000, and possesses, — in its situation, the enter- prise of its merchants, and the industry of its mechanics and manufactur- ers, — the elements of large growth and future prosperity. TOPOGRAPHY. In superficial area Portland is the smallest town in the State. Its territory comprises a small peninsula, which juts into the inner waters of Casco Bay, and sixteen islands and parts of islands, lying at a distance, down the bay, of from three to ten miles. The peninsula, or Neck, was called Machigonne by the natives, which, according to some autliorities, means had clay., while others contend that its interpretation is a knee, or elbow, — a term descriptive of the great curve which the Neck makes in sweeping round from the Fore River to Back Cove. The names of the islands are Peaks', Long, Cushing's, House, Great and Little Diamond (or Hog), part of Crotch, part of Iloiie, Little Chebeague, Jewell's, Cow, Ram, Marsh, Overset, Crow, and Pumpkin Knob. These islands, accord- ing to the census of 1880, contain but 741 inhabitants, of -which Peaks Island has 7iearly one-half, 370, and Long Island, 252. The peninsula which constitutes tlie site of the city proper projects from the mainland in a northeast direction, and is about three miles long, with an average breadth of three-quarters of a mile, — its narrowest point being scarce half a mile in width. On the southerly side it is divided from the Cape Elizabeth shore by an arm of the bay, called Fore River, whicli 22 I'OUTI.ASl) A\D VHISITY. constitutes the inner liarbor, having, between Portland Bridge and the Breaiiwater on one sick-, and Fi.sh Point on the otlier, an area of six hundred and seventy-seven acres, and an average depth, at mean higli water, of about thirty feet. Vessels of the hirgest size ever built can enter the lower harbor, day or niglil, with forty feet of water at low tide, and lie safely at anchor in that depth, inside of a line connecting the Breakwater with Port Gorges, and distant not more than one-half mile from the Great Eastern Stcamshii) Wharves. Commissioners ai>- pointed by the Government to e.\amine the harbor say, " The city of Portland stands precisely upon the spot which a careful examination would i)ronounce to be the best." On the northerly side the Neck is separated from the shores of Peering by the waters of Back Cove, — an inner basin of large extent, having a suthcient dejitli of water, at high tide, to float vessels of con- siderable tonnage. The jieninsula, therefore, has tide water on either hand, and its shores slope up gradually on both sides to a mean central elevation of more than a hundred feet, — thus affording every facility for drainage, and contributing to make Portland one of the healthiest cities in the world. At its northeastern extremity the Xeck rises into an eminence called Miinjoy's Hill, having an elevation of IGl feet, and commanding a delightful view of the waters of Casco Bay, its green islands, and the ocean beyond. At its southwestern end the land also rises into a promi- nence, ending with a bold bluff, called Bramhall's Hill, having a height of 175 feet, and affording an extensive view of farm, forest, village, and mountain scenery, — best seen at sunset. Between these two elevations the land sags, but at the lowest point, on the central ridge, (the head of Hampshire street), is still 57 feet above tide water. Along the whole line of this central ridge, from the slope of Bram- hall to the outer declivity of Munjoy, Congress street extends, the back- bone of the city, three miles in length. Below it, on the southern slope, and running parallel with it for a jiart of its length, are, first. Middle street, a business aveiuie devoted largely to the retail and wholesale dry goods trade; second, Fore street, the ancient water street of the city, now devoted to miscellaneous trade; and iliird, Commercial street, the new commercial thoroughfare, fronting tiie harbor, and occuj)ied by wholesale traders in heavy goods. At the west end, where the Neck widens, there are other longitudinal streets between Congress and Com- mercial, as Spring, Danforlh, and York. On the northerly slo]ie, also running i)arall(l with Congress street for a part of its lengtli, are, first, Cumberlanil ; .second, Oxford, supjilemented on the western enreseiit jiastor, Rev E. Clark. Thecluncli numbers two luin- dred and sixty nicnibcrs, wliilo tlio so- ciety embraces nearlj' a tlious;ind indi- viduals. The new church was finislied in 1878. It is in the Gotliic style of architecture, built of brick, faced with freestone trim- mings. Tlie ])eculiarities of its construction are a winij on the right of the cliancel. wliicli forms the cha)iel, and is connected with the church by sliding glass doors, thus forming a part of the .Mudience-room ; and an alcove <)])i>osite the chapel for the choir and organ. The sealing capacity of the chinch is eight Inindri'(l, and a lailies' parlor and a kitchen afford ainplc arconiiiioilalions for the social needs of the church. A line organ was placerenticeship to the art of printing, and often boasted in his old age that he "struck off," with his own hands, the first sheet ever jirintcd in Maine. He subsci|uently became a Baptist preacher, and after a iiiinistry of forty years in Brunswick, Me., died in 1848, at the good old age of ninety-seven years. Mr. Waite, also a printer, was born in Saugus, Mass., in 1762, and came here from Boston in 1784; was long prominent here in political affairs, — a man of ardent temperament and independent character; active in procuring the establishment of post-office and mail routes ; an advocate of the building of a theatre here, when town meet- ings were held on the subject, and much feeling was manifested on botli sides. After a residence in Portland of about thirty years, he returned ti> Hcjston, where he died in 1830. In 18():J Nathaniel Willis, father of N. P. Willis, the ])oet, commenced ihc publication of the Eastern Argus, lie was the first editor who was ever iui|)risoned in JIaine because of the freedom with which he uttered his sentiments through the press. He also issued the first religious news- paper ever permanently establisheil in this country. Mr. Willis died in Boston, in 1S7II, being ninety years oler in this Stale, — and in its columns first ai)|)carcil his famous "Jack Downing Letters," wliich are among the most successful .'ulaptations of the Yankee dialect to the purposes of h\imorous writing. Mr. Smith was also a poet, and a writer of tales and essavs for the magazines. Hon. William Willis. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 33 John and William E. Edwards became proprietors of the Portland Advertiser in 1829, and soon after engaged James Brooks as editor, who was one of the first of Washington correspondents, afterwards removed to New York, where, together with his brother Erastus, — both natives of this city, — he ran a successful career as editor of the New York Express, and long represented that city in Congress. In May, 1833, Horatio King (since acting Postmaster General), re- moved the Jeffersonian from Paris, Oxford county, to this city, where it was published several years, with a good degree of success. In 1835 the Daily Argus was started by Ira Berry and Charles Holden. Mr. Berry is still living, the oldest active printer among us. Mr. Holden, who was one of our most successful journalists, and a most useful and public-spirited citizen, died in July, 1875, aged 71 years, leaving a com- petence to his children, and liberal bequests to our benevolent institutions. In 1837 Charles P. Ilsley started the Portland Transcript, which he edited for ten years, enriching its columns with many interesting tales from his graceful pen. D. C. Colesworthy commenced the publication of the Portland Tribune in 1841, and continued it for over four years, contributing to its columns many tales and poems which attracted much attention. About 1842 Benjamin Kingsbury, Jr., came here to edit the American, — a daily and weekly paper, started by a faction of the Democracy in opposition to the Argus. Mr. Kingsbury displayed great ability in its management, and soon made matters lively among the politicians. The sparring that went on between him and Eliphalet Case, editor of the Argus, 'greatly amused the town. His slower and heavier opponent was no match for him in wit and sprightliness. Mr. Kingsbury has since filled many public oflices with faithfulness .and ability, .among which is that of Mayor of the city in 1870, '71, and '72. Newell A. Foster, who was engaged on the Amei'ican as printer and publisher, at the time of Mr. Kingsbury's connection with it, was long con- nected with the press of Portland. In 1862, in company with John T. Gilman and Joseph B. Hall, be established the Portland Daily Press. Mr. Foster was a man of earnest convictions and independence of character, whose untimely death, a few years since, was deeply lamented. Among distinguished men of other professions who have for a time tried their hands at journalism here, are Rev. Russell Streeter, Hon. Wil- liam Willis, Isaac Ad.ams, Hon. F. O. J. Smith, Hon. William Pitt Fessen- den, Hon. Phinehas Barnes, Hon. J.ames G. Blaine, John A. Poor, S. B. Beckett, Henry Carter, Professor E. P. Weston, Rev. Dr. W. H. Shailer, George Glfford, and Judge Enoch Knight, of the Municipal Court. The leading dailies of this city are now under the management of John M. Adams, of the Argus ; II. W. Richardson, of the Advertiser ; and Stan- 34 . POirJLAXV A\D VICIXITY. ley T. Pullen, of the Press. The editor longest in continuous service is E(l\v;ir-. Dr. I. P. Warren, and the Zion's Advocate (Baj)tist) by Kev. II. S. Barrage. The pioneer artist in Portland was Charles Codman, who came here from Massachusetts many years ago, and commenced business as a sign- jiainter. He soon turned his attention to landscajic-jiainting, for which he had a true genius, his works displaying freedom of handling, and truth to nature. Many of them arc still owned by families in tliis city, and are highly prized. Charles O. Cole was an excellent ))ortrait-j>ainter, practising his profession here with success for many years. J. R. Tilton, who has gained high distinction as a landscape-])ainter in Italy, commenced his career here as an ornamental painter about 1848. Mrs. Elizabeth i\Iur- ray, (wife of Her Britannic Majesty's Consul, John Henry Murray), a dis- tinguished artist in water-colors, whose works are highly prized on both sides of the Atlantic, has resided here at times. Charles J. Schumaelier, a native of Germany, has painted some fine landscapes and street views, — chiefly of scenes in his native land. Of native artists, the first who attained distinction was Charles E. Beckett. Commencing as an amateur he soon displayed ]>recision in draw- ing, and skill in composition, and in landscape-painting he achieved some success, and was noted for his spirited drawing of liorses. J. G. Cloud-' man has studied abroad, and ])roduced landsca]>es and figure-]iieces, though clilefly devoting lilmself to ])ortraiture, in which he excels. Of all our native artists, Harry B. Brown has shown the truest eye for color, and achieved the greatest success as a landscai)e and marine jiaiuter. Com- mencing as a sign and banner painter, his natural genius soon worked its way into its own field, and he has attained a recognized position among the best artists in tlie land. His sea-and-shore scenes are distinctive in their character, remarkable for the free dasli of the waves and the solidity of the cliffs, while in atmospheric effects he excels. John B. Hudson, Jr.) (whose drawings, illustrating this work, s]>eak for themselves), has pro- duced some close studies of nature. Charles F. Kimball has rejiroduccd our scenery with faitlifulness and j)oetic feeling; ami Miss Maria Beckett has done good and ])romising work. Of sculptors, Paul Akers and his brother Charles were long resident here. Franklin .Simiimns, wliu has attained great success in his art, executed some of his earlier busts in this city. E. R. Tliaxter, whose works, executed in Italy, have won liigh praise, began liis artistic career in Portland. Of the business men whose energy, enterprise, and capital Iiave done FOIiTLAyn AND VWI.MTY. much to promote the prosperity of the city, ami gain for themselves local influence and position, a long list might be given. Our merchants, from the earliest times, have shown a commendable spirit of enterprise, and of late years, through associated action in the Boartl of Trade, have by their en- courao-ement of new packet, steamboat, antl railroad lines, done much to open distant markets to the trade of the city. Other capitalists and real- estate owners have contributed largely to the growth of the city, in the establishment of manufactures, and the improvement of vacant lands. Nathaniel Deering was the first who opened a store after the destruc- tion of the town in 1775, in which he laid the foundation of a large property now owned by the Deering and Preble heirs, — both family names being as "familiar in our mouths as household words." Joseph H. Ingraham, of the same period, improved the waste places by building blocks of stores, and became for a time one of our largest land-holders. It is to him our city is indebted for the noble avenue of State street, as also for one of our best- preserved mansions of the olden time, situated near its foot. Captain John Mussey was among those who first erected stores on Middfe street, — on a site since repeatedly swept by fire, but always rebuilt upon by his son, John Mussey, Esq. This gentleman, formerly Clerk of the United States Courts for many years, still walks our streets, a hale and handsome oc- togenarian, a venerable and most respected citizen, noted for his generous gifts to our churches "on. john b^ Brown. and charities as well as for his vigorous old age. The financial disasters which followed the embargo of 1807 swept away the fortunes of many of our leading merchants and real-estate own- ers ; but among those who survived the storm were Matthew Cobb, Asa Clapp, William Chadwick, Albert Newhall, Joseph Cross, Ralph Cross, Arthur McLellan, James Deering, Benjamin Willis, Samuel Trask, and Reuben Morton, — all men who have left their mark upon our city. Matthew Cobb's house still remains, at the corner of High street and Congress Square, to remind old citizens of tlie style and hospitality kept 36 PORTLAND AXD VICINITY. up there in the days of its first proprietor. Asa Clapp is still remembered jis our leading merchant in tiie West India trade, long active in affairs here. His two sons, ("liarles Q. Cla])j), Klstj., now dead, and Hon. A. W. II. Clapp, fornic-rly Kepresentalive in Congress from tliis District, and still residing in the old family mansion, at the corner of Congress and Elm streets, have been j)roniinent citizens, and kejit up the influence of the Clajip name. The Chadwicks and McLellans were lontr anion'; our most active merchants and shii:>-o\vners. James Deering, whose name meets us on block, and street, and bridge, is remembered as one of our largest real-estate owners, — a man of great activity and business energy to a late period in life. At a later day Jacob Knight ran a long career of prosperity and in- fluence as a leading merchant, ending, as such careers so often do, in disaster. His sons did not ujihold ^ the family name and influence, -S^ and nearly all recollection of him lias passed away. At a still later N»_ time another citizen, in a different dejiarlment of business, was for a brief period the man of mark among us: the Hon. John M. Wood, a builder of railroads, a projector of large ini])roveiiu'nts here, a member of Congress from this District for two terms; run- ning a rapid career of prosperity, only to end in embarrassment and untimely death. Quite different lias been the progress of one of liis successors in Congress from this District, — the Hon. John Tiynch ; beginning life as a jioor boy, rising by his own unaided efforts to a prominent jiosition Hon w.iiiam w Thomas. amouf our merchants, endorsed liy them as our Rejiresentative in Congress for eight years, a useful leg- islator and successful business man. Tlic leadin'^ business man and real-estate owner for many years was the late John 1> Brown, who came here many years ago and eomiiienced business in the retail grocery line, and by his energy and large foresight bccanu' a leading merchant and manufacturer; doing much for tl.c im- ])r()veiiient of the city, active in all enterprises for the extension of its trade, representing its interests in the Legislature, and taking an active part in the establisliment of the Maine General ITos]iital, and other be- nevolent institutions. j\Ir. Brown died Jan. 10, 1881. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 37 Hon. William W. Thomas, another leading capitalist and real-estate owner, is a native citizen, being a direct descendent, in the seventh gen- eration, of George Cleeves, our first settler; of a family prominent here through the whole history of the city ; including in his ancestry the Rev. George Burroughs, the first minister in Falmouth, and John Proctor, — both of whom the pious people of Salem hanged for witchcraft. Mr. Thomas has been engaged in business in this city for over half a cen- tury; is the oldest bank president in the city, having presided over the affairs of the Canal Bank for thirty-five years ; was Mayor of Port land in 1861 and 1862, and has represented our city in the Legislature, and our county in the State Senate. To Mr. Thomas is the city indebted for many of the most substantial business edifices which adorn our principal streets. His son, Hon. William W. Thomas, Jr., has been twice Speaker of the Maine House of Representatives, and, as Commissioner of Emigra- tion, founded the flourishing colony of New Sweden in the heart of our northern forests. Other merchants and capitalists, to whom the city is indebted for many improvements and business enterprises, are St. John Smith ; T. C. Hersey ; Messrs. Andrew and Samuel E. Spring, largely engaged in the South American trade, and conspicuous for benevolence and jjublio spirit ; G. W. Woodman, late President of the Board of Trade ; Horatio N. Jose ; H. J. Libby ; George S. Hunt, the successful manager of two of our ex- tensive corporations, and a large owner in our shipping interests ; Francis Macdonald, to whom is due the inception and formation of the Portland Kerosene Oil Company, the Rolling Mills, and the Casco Iron Company; Jacob S. Winslow, Benjamin Webster, and Russell Lewis, three of our heaviest ship-owners ; Weston F. Milllken, the head of one of our largest wholesale houses, and a promoter of steam navigation with the eastern part of the State ; also Woodbury S. Dana, Henry Fox, Hon. Charles H. Has- kell, Charles E. Jose, James P. Baxter, Wm. G. Davis, Charles McLaughlin, C. C. Chapman, Thomas E. Twitchell, Philip H. Brown and John M. Brown. This list is not regarded as exhaustive in any department. I have spared the modesty of many of the living, and perhaps forgotten many of the dead, who deserve to be remembered. Defective as it may be, how- ever, it will serve to refresh the memories of those who have grown old among us, and to incite the young to emulate the examples of industry, enterprise, and probity which it presents. 38 rOHTLAXD AXD VKJISlTy. WALKS ABOUT TOWN. FROM MARKET SQUARE TO THE EASTERN PROMENADE. Having now taken a hurried general survey of our city and its sur- roundings, let us indulge in a stroll or two about town for a more leisurely and extended view of its jjublic buildings, private residences, and points of historic interest. If the visitor is stopping at the Preble, or the Uniteil States, he finds himself, on ste])ping out-doois, in Market Square ; if at the Falmouth, or Merchants' Exchange, a short walk up Middle street will l)ring liini to the same point ; if at the City Hotel he lias but to walk straight down Con- gress street to reach it. Here lie finds himself in the heart of the eity. Market Square, in a small way, is to Portland what the Forum was to the ancient Koman cities: a center of business, the scene of popular gather- ings, surrounded with stores, hotels, public halls, and ))laces of iimusenieiit. Many a popular harangue has been listened to liere in times of ])olitieal excitement, and more than one mob has made riot around its central building. Situated on the ridge of the peninsula, about midway of its Icngtli, the. Square has a central position, and affords ca.sy access to all ]>arts of the city. Congress street runs straight tlirougli it on tlie north side; Federal and Middle streets cntei- it on the east, with a "heater" between them ; Center street, on the south, offers a direct a])proach to the harbor, and the stations of the Eastern, Boston and Maine, Maine Central, and Portland and Ogdensburg Railroads; while on the north Preble street opens a view of Back Cove and the country beyond, as well as an ap- proach to tlie station of the Portland and Rochester Railroad. The horse cars start here for Deering, and also for the east and west ends of the city. On the eastern side of the Square the s])ace between Federal and Con- gress streets is occujiied by the United States Hotel, the oldest of our jjuI)- lic houses, a first-class establishment, recently enlarged, and well conducted. On the north arc Clap|."s Block and Deering's Block, built of brick, and devoted to stores and offices. In the latter block, at the corner of Preble street, is Music Hall, litted up for theatrical entertainments. On the oj>])o- site corner is the Prebh; House, enlarged from the ancient mansion of Commodore Preble, of naval fame, and now known as one of our best hotels. Opposite, at the corner of Center street, is Lancaster Hall, used principally for dances, :nid under it is the horse car station. PORTLAND ASD VICINITY. 39 40 POltTLAXD AXD VIVIXITY. The building standing nearly in the center of the Square deserves a paragrai)h by itself. Tliis is Military Hall, the ancient town-hall and market-house, built somewhere about 1825. It is built of brick, and the e.xtcrior was originally so i)lain that the late Charles (.1. Cla])]!, Esq., a gentleman of much architectural taste, exerted himself to have the front finished with a pediment in the Ionic style, which gives the building a somewhat noble appearance as approached down Congress street. Here the town-meetings were held before a city charter was obtained; here the City Government afterwards had its rooms; here the military companies had, as now, their armories ; and here excited political meetings have been held, and stirring scenes enacted. It was at one time the only hall in the city attainable for concerts and lectures, as well as jiublic meetings of all United Slates Hotel. sorts. Here Garrison has thundered his anatlicmas n£;ainst slaverv, nnrl here the citizens gathered to denounce tlic cowardly assault on Senator Sumner. Here Stephen S. Foster was assaulted by a brutal ]iro-slavcry mob, intent on tarring and feathering him, from whom he escaped, not without jiorsonal damage, to the residence of Nathan Winslow near by; and here, under the mayoralty of Neal Dow, John Kobbins was shot by the military, while acting with an anti-liquor law mob, in an endeavor to destroy the li(iuors belonging to the city, stored in the basement of the buililing. Here we have listened to the eloquence of Sumner and Fessen- den, and witnessed the disrujition of old ]iolitical parties .-ind the formation of new ones. The building is now chiefly used by our military comp.niies. Tlie question of removing it to make room for a soldiers' monument, or a fountain, — thus enlarging and enriching the Scpiare, — has been often mooted ; but it still holds its ground, and seems likely to do so for years PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 41 to come. On holidays this Square is the center of movement and display, and often of an evening, when crowds gather around the peddlers and mountebanks who here take their stands and display tlieir wares under the light of flaming torches, when the sidewalks are thronged with jicople out for a walk, and the places of amusement are in full blast, the scene pre- sented, as shown in our engraving, is a picturesque and animated one. Making the Square our point of departure, let us turn toward the east end and stroll down Congress street to Mun- joy's Hill. This portion of the city was the first settled, and before the great fire of 1866 con- tained the oldest houses, but is now rebuilt in modern style. The first building that attracts our atten- tion as we leave the Square is the residence of Hon. A. W. H. Clapp, ex-member of Congress; an old family mansion, embowered in the foli- age of stately trees, with its extensive garden in the rear, — a relic of the days of large city es- tates, whicli still holds its own almost in the center of business. Next to this stood for one hundred and ten yeai'S the residence of Rev. Samuel Deane, the second jiastor of the First Parish Church. In 1765 he bought here a three-acre lot, extending from Congress street to Back Cove, and built on it a two-story hipped-roof house; afterwards greatly altered and modernized, and long the residence of the late Samuel Chadwick, Esq. It was one of the stateliest of our old-time mansions, but has now given way before the march of improvement, and a handsome block of brick stores occupies its site. In this building the Odd Fellows now have their halls, which are elegantly fitted u|i. The rooms of the Mercantile Library Association were also in this block. First Parish (Unitarian) Church. 42 roirrLAND and vicinity. This instituiioii was established in 1851, and gatliered a library of abont eiglit thousand volumes, which has now been united with the Public l^ibrary. Besides affording its members the benefits of books and diseus- sions, the Association contribuled largely to the entertainment and instruc- tion of the ])iiblic by its numerous courses of poimlar lectures. Tlie Asso- ciation IS not now in active operation. Tliis brings us to tlie First Parish Church, standing in its spacious lot, and approached by a wide Hight of granite steps. It was built in ISlio, on the site of the old church which had stood there since 1740, and is con- structed of undressed granite ; having a floor eighty-two feet long by sixty- two feet wide, and 138 pews. Unlike too many of our churches there is no sham about this build- ing; it does not jireseut a front of one material, with the sides and rear wall of another, but is solid granite throughout, a good speci- men se of the High School build- ing, a large and well-proportione.l brick structure, fronting on Cumberland PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 43 street. The school affords instruction to both boys and girls, and is under the charge of a Principal with a large corps of assistant teachers. Passing on we come to the junction of Chestnut street, glancing down which we see, on the right, the Chestnut Street (Methodist Episco- pal) Church, an elegant brick edifice, with two slender spires, in which wor- ships the parent Methodist Society of the city, from which offshoots have been planted in Pine street, and on Munjoy's Hill. On the opposite side of Congress street is the ornate Fluent's Block, for nierly occupied as the Portland Museum, but now the property of the Union Mutual Life In- surance Com- pany, the dra- mahavingshift- ed its quarters to Music Hall. Theatrical entertainments never greatl}"^ flourished in Portland. They w e r e w holly unknown here before the Re- volution. Tlu' first perform- ance here was given October 7th, 1794, by a strolling com- pany from Bos- ton. They came again at inter- vals, but when union Mutual Insurance Building. in 1806 it was proposed to build a theatre the virtuous citizens took alarm, called a town-meeting, and after an animated discussion, in which the lead- ing citizens took part, succeeded in defeating the project by a prohibitory law with heavy penalties. The poor players did not again make their ap- pearance until 1820, when they set up their scenery in Union Hall. Public opinion had by this time so far changed that they were enabled to evade the law of 1806. In 1830 a neat and convenient theatre was erected on Free street, nt an expense of about $10,000; but still the drama langnisliod, and in 1836 the building was sold to the Second Ba)>tist Society, and now forms one of our most substantial churches. About 1848 a theatre was 44 PORTLAND AXD VWlSliy. built on Union street, under the convenient veil of a museum, nnd Joseph Proctor anil old Joe Cowell there gave their vigorous and nniusing j)erform- ances. That building was some years after destroyed by fire. A few years since Deering Ilall was fitted up as a theatre, under the name of Music Hall, and occasional performances took place there. In 1874 Fluent Hall was remodeled into a temple of the drama, but in 1880 was abandoned, and Music Hall was remodeled and named " Xew Portland Theatre." This brings us to the City Government Building, which stands on the north side of Congress, directly opj)osite the head of E.xchange street. It is an imposing structure, of good architectural proportions, having a front- age of one hundred and fifty feet, a length of two hundred and twenty-one feet, with corner towers seventy-tive feet high, and a central dome swelling up to a height of one hundred and si.\ty feet. The front is built of the light-colored Nova Scotia Albert-stone ; the side and rear walls of pressed brick, with Albert-stone trimmings. Its cost was §050,000, and it contains eighty rooms. Occupying the site of the old court-house and jail, the county, as well as the city government, has its offices here. In the base- ment, with entrances on the Myrtle street side, are the Police Station- and Municij)al Court-room. The right wing, on the first floor, is occui)ied by the county offices ; with the Superior Court-room above. The left wing, first floor, is devoted to the city offices. The Portland Institute and Public Library has rooms on the northwest corner, in the rear. This institution, managed by an association formed in 1867, has for its object the maintenance of a public library and institute of natural history, science, and art; to be made free to all as soon as the condition of its funds will warrant. At present it has a library of twenty-si.v thousand volumes, from which any citizen can take books by paying two dollars per annum. The average monthly issue of books is about three thoasand volumes. A reading-room is furnished, where the use of books is free to all comers. This room is also the germ of an art gallery, con- taining photographic copies of "The Transfiguration," by Raphael, in the Vatican; of "The Last Judgment," by IMichael Angelo, in the Sistine Chapel; busts and portraits of distinguished citizens, and paintings by our native artists. The rooms are open to all, on secular days, from 10 A. ]\I. to n P. M. On the second floor, reached by a wide staircase of iron, is the City Hall, a noble apartment, one hundred and thirteen feet long, eighty feet wide, and thirty-five feet high. It is handsoniely finisheil, lias a gallery on three sides, and will contain three thousainl people, though the seating ca- pacity is about twenty-five hundred. Hero are given grand concerts, and courses of lectures, and great popular gatherings and receptions of distin- guished persons are held. Connected with it are l{ecei)tion and Rossini Halls, beside smaller rooms; the whole making a grand suite of a|)artmeMts. POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 45 On the third floor are the rooms of the Maine Historical Society. This Society was organized here Ai)ril 11, 1S22, but for many years its headquar- ters were in Brunswick. Its library of bound books numbers 11,000, and it has an equal number of unbound ]iain]»lilets. It also possesses a valuable cabinet of curiosities and historical relics. One object of the Society is to gather and preserve all documents relating to the early history of Maine, and contributions of letters, autographs, manuscript sermons, journals and diaries are solic- ited. The socie- ty has issued many valuable publications, and has been in- strumental in preserving mucli informa- tion in regard to our early his- tory, manners, and customs. Its rooms, in charge of the Assistant Librarian, H. W. Bryant, are open to all inter- ested in histori- cal studies. The collec- tions of the Portland Socie- ty of Natural History, which ^''1' ^^" for ten years oc- cupied these rooms, have been removed to the Society's elegant new build- ing, erected in 1880, on Elm street, at a cost of a little more than $20,000. Here it has spacious cabinets, and library and lecture rooms, with evei'y con- venience that could be devised for such an institution. Though its collec- tions have been twice destroyed by fire, the Society has now valuable cabi- nets, illustrating the natural history of our own State, and other lands. The rooms, in chrrge of the Cabinet-keeper, C. B. Fuller, are open to the public. Passing on a short distance we come next to the Payson Memorial Church, wliose beautiful lancet spire, rising to a height of one hundred aLd seventy-five feet, attracts the eye by its graceful proportions. This church, built of brick, with a heavy front of Hallowell granite, or gneiss, 46 pojiTL.wu ASD vicixiri: is sc'venty-tliree feet wide by ninety long, and lias two projecting towers. Willi its two arcades of five arches the facade is imposing and bcautifid. The society ■\vorshi]>[)iiig here is the old Second Parish (Congregational) Church, an offshoot of the First Parish in 1787, to which administered the Rev. Edward Payson for twenty years, — from 1807 to his untimely death in 1827, at the age of forty-seven' years. After the old meeting- house was destroyed by the fire of 18C6 it was resolved that the new church, built on a new site, should bear the name of the lamented pastor, the most eloquent preacher of his day. The late ])astor^ Rev. Dr. John J. Carruthers, a native of Scotland, was in- stalled August y, 1S4G, and released a few years since, after a service of more than thirty years. He is still liv- ing among us, in the eighty- second year of his age. The jircsent jiastor of the Church is the Rev. Charles A. Dick- inson. A few steps farther will bring us to the First Hajitist Church, with its handsome Xorman-gothic front of hewn Connecticut freestone, trim- med with olive freestone, elaborately carved and fin- ished about the windows, doors, and belt-courses. The style is massive and impos- ing, though the church sets low upon the sidewalk. P.,.„n M„mo„., (Congregational) Church. This, tOO, Is a HCW ereC- lion, .springing out of the ashes of the great fire of 18G6. The society worsliipi)ing here was organized in 1801, and so restricted was freedom of religious o].inion at that time, that as late ns 1820 an Act of the Leg- islature was necessary to enable persons to leave any other society and join the First Ba])tist Society. The late jiastor, Rev. William II. Siiailer, D D., had a successful j).istorate of twenty-four years, retiring in 1«77, and dying here in 1881. The present pastor is Rev. Thomas D. Anderson, Jr. Wc are now opposite Lincoln Park. — which is rather a public square, ^ bounded by Congress, Franklin, Federal, and Pearl streets, and liaving PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 47 an area of little less than two and a half acres. It has a central fountain, which sends up its cooling jets on summer days, its greensward, its seats for loungers, its concrete walks, and its outlines of trees, which, with the aid of time, will afford both shade and beauty. Evening stroll- ers find it a pleasant resort, and children delight to sail their boats in the great basin of the fountain. This breath- ing place was appropriated from the thickly-settled por- tion of the city swept over by the fire of 1866. Stand- ing in its center, and sweep- ing around on all sides, the eye falls on no structure that stood prior to that year. The imposing City Govern- ment Building, the handsome ^"^^ Baptist Church. churches just described, the Cathedral and Bishop's residence, the towering North School-House, the elegant private residences, — all to be seen from this point, — have sprung out of the ashes of the old city within the past fifteen years. We have now reached the corner of Franklin street, which runs straight across the city, and this is the only point, where, standing in the street, you can see, in a straight line, on one hand the waters of the har- bor, and on the other those of Back Cove. Here, too, we come upon the palatial residence of the Roman Catholic Bishop of the diocese of Maine and Xew Hampshire, — a brick edifice, in a pointed style of architecture ; in the rear of which, with connecting chapel between, stands the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, fronting on Cumberland street. This is the largest and most costly church in Maine. It is one hundred and ninetj'- six by one hundred feet on the ground, and seventy feet in height. The slated spire — which is simply hideous, lapping over the tower like an ex- tinguisher on a candle, — rises to a height of two hundred and thirty-six feet, — being thus sixteen feet higher than Bunker Hill Monument. Out- wardly, the building is not so attractive in material as in form, being built of bricks considerably mortar-stained ; but its imposing bulk, in connection with its cha])e], (which is itself a good-sized church, joined to it as an L, and opening into it near the grand altar), and the Bishop's Palace, — unique in architecture, and of great size, -^ form, together, the most marked feature 48 PORTLAND AXD VICIXITY. in the architecture of our city. As to the interior of the Cathedral, in sym- metry of proportions and in elegance of decoration, it is surpassed by few churclies in the country. The lofty walls and graceful art-hos are covered with a wealth of harmonious colors, while the stained windows, rich with figures and emblems ; the elaborately ornate altar; the great organ in the music-gallery, and the brilliant circular window behind it; the slirine of the Virgin, with its arches and crowns of light on festal occasions, form, together, an imjiosiug and beautiful spectacle. The first Roman Catholic r?b^ Lincoln Park. Church was formed here in 1822. In 1830 St. Dominic's Church (since much enlarged) was built on State street. Tlie diocese of Portland, in- cluding the States of Maine and New Hampshire, was formed in 1!S;)8, and the Right Rev. David Bacon, D. D., was appointed Bishop. By this time St. Dominic's had become too strait to accommodate the rapidly in- creasing numbers of Catholics in Portland, and in 18,57 the Cathedral of tlie Immaculate Conccjition was ])rojected, and completed in 1869, being dedi- cated in Sejitember of tliat year with imj)osing ceremonies. Bishop Bacon PORTLAND AND VICINITT. 49 A few of our Churches. 50 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. died, deeply lamented, in the year 1874, and the diocese is now in charge of Bishop Healey. On the old Ilay Scale lot, adjoining tlie Episcopal residence, stands the handsome structure known as the "Kavanagh Seliool." It was completed in 1877, at a cost of nearly $23,000, the funds being derived from a generous donation of S'25,000 from Miss Kavanagh, of Damariscotta. The school is sujiported as a free school by the Catliolics of tlie Cathedral congregation. We are now just ojipositc the head of Hampshii'e street, on tlie corner of which, in the days before the Revolution, stood the -fashionable tavern of the town, kept by Widow Alice Greele. It was but a low, one-storied structure, but was a famous place of resort for clubs and social parties. Here the lawyers, traveling on circuit, were entertained ; here courts sat, and conventions were held ; and here the wags of the town resorted, and many a mug of "flip" w'as drank, and many a good joke cracked, in the days succeeding, as well as previo\is to, the Revolution, — for Widow Greele saved her house when Mowatt burned the town, by remaining in it and extinguishing the flames. When all around was burning, and cannon balls were hurtling tlirougli the air, she stood by her house and saved it from destruction. It was removed to Washington street about 1846. Strolling on, a few stejis farther bring us to Locust street, and the little picturesque church of St. Paul's, built of our native slate-rock. This church, built after the fire of 1866 had driven St. Stephen's to the west end, took the name of an earlier Episcopal organization here, and bears on its walls the dates 1763-1868. It suffered a sad loss in tlie untimely and lamentable death of its first rector, the Rev. N. W. T. Ropt, who fell a victim to malig- nant small-pox. A short walk now britigs us to tlie head of India street, on the vacant, lot opposite wliieii stood the house of the Rev. Thomas Smith, burned in the destruction of the town by Mowatt, in 1775. It commanded a fine view, down India street, of the harbor and the Cape, with the ocean beyond. The neighlioriiig Smith street, ruiiiiiiig northerly to Cumberland street, j)erpetiiates the name of the good olil parson. At the corner of Congress and India streets, where formerly tlie Thomas mansion stood, now rises the tall spire of the Second Universaiist Church, a substantial brick structure, with massive lower, Tliis society, formed after the removal of the First Universaiist Society to their new church in Congress Square, in 1805. has now lost jiossession of the church by reason of debt, and worsliips in Reception II:iIl. Adjoining this church, on the east, stands the North School-House, on the spot where, in the old grammar-school, Master Whitmore flogged the boys for many a year. It is a huge, four-storied structure, of brick, con- taining a congeries of iirini.ary and granimar-schoois, comprising twenty-six teachers and twelve Imiulred sciiolars, all under one principal. POBTLAXD AND VICINITY. 51 The school-house looks down u])on the Eastern Cemetery, — the oldest graveyard'in Portland. For two hundred years a portion of it was the only common burial-place in the territory now included in the limits of the city. Here the rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep ; here, probably, George Cleeves, our first settler, was buried; and here, in later times, the early families, whose names are still familiar among us, found a last resting-place. Originally quite small, the cemetery has been enlarged until it contains about six acres, thickly crowded with graves. The original burying-place was in the southwest corner, where stood a tall pine tree, long a landmark for the weather-tossed mariners, and under whose protecting branches the dead clustered thickest. It is an elevated site, looking down upon the city and the sea. Here may still be seen the old-fashioned, heavy gravestones of slate, ornamented with winged heads or skulls, and funereal urns, over which droop weeping willows. They bear long inscriptions, — now half obliterated, — ^ setting forth the virtues of the departed. The oldest stone we have been able to find is that of Mrs. Mary Green, who died May 23, 1717. In this corner are found the tomb of Parson Smith and his many wives and sons, — restored by the First Parish Church, in 1846; and the quaint old red-sandstone monument of Sheriff Tyng, of the revolutionary era. On the opposite side of the yard, towards Mountfort street, are the monuments erected to the memory of the naval heroes, — William Bur- roughs, of the U. S. Brig Enterprise, and Samuel Blythe, of His Majesty's Brig Boxer, — who fought and died together, off this coast, on the 5th of September, 1813, and were buried here, with imposing and impressive cere- monies, on the 8th of September. Beside them lies Lieutenant Kervin Waters, of the Enterprise, mortally wounded in the same action, of which Longfellow sings : " I remember the sea-fight far away, How it thiindered o'er the tide! Aud the dead captains, as they lay In their graves o'erlooking the tranquil bay, Where they in battle died." The navy is well represented here. Commodore Preble had his white marble monument ; and here also is commemorated the death of the gallant Lieutenant Henry Wadsworth, (uncle of the poet Longfellow, and for whom he was named), who fell before Tripoli, in 1804. The Rev. Dr. Edward Payson also was buried here ; and an ornamental shaft of white marble marks the resting-place of the Rev. Mr. Reese, of the Universalist Church. Most of the old monuments are box-like structures of brick or granite, or tables supported on four pillars. The grass grows rankly over the crowded graves; the elms and poplars, which have sprung up at their own sweet will, cast here and there a shade ; and year by year the gravestones settle and grow more and more awry. 52 POUTLA.XD AND VICIMTY. Passing out of the cemetery, and continuing our way along Congress street, we find ourselves at the foot of Miuijoy's Hill, so called from George Munjoy, an early settler, who built his residence on the hill as early as 1G61. A sightly elevation, rising to a height of one hundred and sixty-six feet above the sea, and terminating the peninsula on which the city is built, "The Hill," as it is i>opularly called, has been the scene of stirring events in our history. It was here, in lOyu, that Lieutenant Thad- deus Clark, with thirteen men, was shot by Indians in ambush, while recon- Observatory, and Congresj Street M. E. Church. noitering, — the hill being then covered with woods; here, in 1717, in a spacious tent, Lieutenant Governor Dummer made a treaty with the Indians, who came "with French colors and made a great show," — a treaty which ensured peace for many years; liere, in 1775, Colonel Tliom|v son, of Brunswick, encamped with his men in a tliick grove of pines, and seized Captain Mowatt as he was walking on the hill, in revenge for which the Captain afterwards linrned the town; here, in 1S08, took place tiie third and last execution for murder whicli ever oecurreil in tliis city, Joseph Drew being hanged, in the presence of a large concourse of I)eople, for fatally striking De|»uty Sheriff Parker while in the discharge PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 53 of his duty; and here, too, on tlie slojie we are now ascending, arose, after the great fire of 1866, tlie unique village of tents which gave temjjorary shelter to a large portion of the houseless population of the city. This area lying on our right, and immediately below the Observatory, — now covered with an unsightly huddle of cheap tenement-houses, — was once the pla)-- ground of the city; the scene of "General Musters" and Fourth of July celebrations, where holiday soldiers paraded, and tents were pitched, and booths disjDcnsed beer and gingerbread to hungry crowds, who found amuse- ment in peep-shows and flying-horses, and where boys — now grown gray- headed men — listened with open mouths to the revolutionary songs of Johnny Avery. It was a pleasant spot, high and green, looking down upon the city and the harbor, and commanding a wide and beautiful view. Cut down for the sake of its gravel, this part of the hill has been degraded in more senses than one. At the Observatory we strike the old sod again. This red-shingled tower is eighty-two feet high, and was built in 1807, for the purpose of signalizing shipping approaching the harbor. In the three-quarters of a century which have elapsed since its erection, many an eye has been gladdened by the flag thrown out on one of its three flag-staffs, indicat- ing the approach of some long-absent ship ; and many a storm-tossed ves- sel has been saved from wreck by the succor sent out through timely intelligence from this watch-tower, where the sailor's good genius sits up aloft -and sweeps the horizon with his glass. Here, for a small fee, the visitor may take a peep through the telescope which swings from the ceiling of the look-out, and observe the ships far out at sea. This is the best place in the city to obtain a good view of the surrounding scenery. Towards the northeast lies Casco Bay, dotted with many beautiful islands. Looking eastward, only four miles distant, the broad Atlantic sweeps with its never-ceasing swell ; and a southwesterly view takes in the harbor with its shipping, and the city extending along its narrow peninsula. North- westerly, Mount Washington may be distinctly seen, towering above the distant ranges of mountains. Adjoining the Observatory stands the Congress sti'eet (Methodist Epis- copal) Church, erected in 1868. It is a beautiful temple, both as to its ex- terior and interior. Its location is very sightly, being upon the highest part of Munjoy. The lofty and graceful spire is a conspicuous object as seen from the harbor and from the sea. Its summit is the highest object in the city. Munjoy has other churches : the St. Lawrence Street (Congregational) Church, erected in 1857, of which the Rev. Mr. Wright is now the pastor; and two churches for colored people, — who have always had a proclivity for Munjoy's Hill, — the Abyssinian, (Congregational), and the Mountfort Street African (Methodist Episcopal) Church. 54 PORTLAND A\D VICI\ITY. If now we turn to the left, thi-ough North street, — which runs north- erly along the ridge of the hill, — we obtain a striking view, across the waters of Back Cove, of the city, with its many church-spires, extending to the bluff on BranihaU's Hill, where the Maine General Hospital stands out conspicuously. The city here, owing to the curve made by Munjoy's Hill, seems like a bent bow enclosing the waters of Back Cove, and we are looking across from one end to the other. From this point, too, we com- mand the opposite shores of Deering, diversified with groves and villages. On North street stands the new " Shailer School." erected by the city in 1880. Returuiug, and continuinir aloiitc Congress street, we descend the east- ern slope of the hill, through pasture-land, until we come to the Eastern Promenade, — a wide avenue encircling the hill, and commanding fine views of the bay. On the left we have the ship-building village of East Deering, with the Marino Hospital at Martin's Point, and Falmouth Foreside trend, ing away in the distance. On the right, Fort Gorges rises solidly from its wave-washed ledge, with Peaks' Island beyoTid, and outside of that the broad blue ocean. In the foreground lies Mackay's Island, (now the prop- erty of the ^Messrs. Cushing, the projjrietors of Cushing's Island,) and far- ther down the bay a]ij)ear the Hog, or Diamond Islands, Chubeague, and the multitude of those which cluster thickest at its eastern end, and enclose it from the sea. FROM MARKET SQUARE TO THE WESTERN PROMENADE. Again making Market Square our point of de])arture. let us now turn westward, and leisurely stroll up Congress street. From this jioint to Con- gress Square — nearly half a mile — there is a gradual rise; the street is of good width, contains some fine business blocks, and is the ."scene of much of the retail traffic of the city, of a miscellaneous character. Being the main avenue down town, from the west end, it is often thronged, — particularly of a pleasant evening, — and presents an animated spectacle. Taking the nortliwest side, we come to the Preble House, of which we have already spoken, and where we sh.all be apt to find, beneath the shade of its four magnificent elms, (relics of the ileparted glories of the Preble mansion), groups of visitors and loungers picking their teeth after dinner, and watching the jiasscrs-Viy. Next to the Preble House we come to :in old brick mansion, "some- what back from the village street,'* beneath the shade of droo)>ing elms, which lingers here in the busy scene of trade and travel, like some octo- genarian who finds himself alone in the midst of a new and strange gen- eration. It is the first brick house Iniill in Portland. General Peleg Wadsworth (who in his day w;is a man of military renown; second in commanil in the expedition tn the Penobscot, in ITT'.t, and first l{c|iresen- tative in Congress from this District), built this hcuise in IT!^;"), or raiiier POItTLAND AND VICINITY. 55 commenced it in that year, for though but a two-story house, it was two summers in the building. His son-in-law, Stephen Longfellow, who after- being man- Congress Street, looking west from Market Square. wards occujiicd it, added a third story to it; the line of addition still visible in the weather-worn bricks. It is a plain, old-fashioned sion, a little mel- lowed by age, but still emi- nently respect- able, and sturd- ily holding its own, though it is overshadowed by its overgrown neighbors. It is known as the Longfel- low House, and the impression generally pre- vails that the poet was born PrebU House. in it. That honor, hov, :ver, belongs to an old wooden house on Fore 56 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. Street, which we shall come upon in oiu- next \v:ilk. The poet lived in this house in his youth, and it is still in possession of his family. No longer ago than lust autumn, any one walking down Congress street, after l)reak- fast, might have seen him seated at the win- clow, reading the morn- ing ])a]ier. But let us move on. 1 'assing Morton Block, and Brown street, we come to Brown's Block, where the Portland Army and Navy Union, formed in 1866, by resi- dent soldiers and sailors who served in the late war for the Union, has iis headquarters. It has a reading-room, and u valuable military library, ^==^= and for many years en- ^sS^ii^'-' ^''''. tertaincil the town with Trie Lon^felow House. ;i series of firSt-claSS IcC- tures and concerts, — the profits going to assist the widows and orphans of deceased soldiers and sailors, and those disabled by the war. The next building worthy of mention is Mechanics' Hall, a handsome structure, with granite front, standing at the junction of Congress and Casco streets. It was erected in 1857-9, at a cost of $40,000, by the Maine Charitable Mechanics' Association: an organization formed for ciiaritable and educational ])ur])Oses by our mechanics iii 1815. The association, which includes three hundred and seven of the best mechanics in the city, now owns the building clear of debt ; has a library of nearly five thousand vol- umes, free to members and their apprentices; maintains a free evening school for instruction in industrial drawing, and for several years jiast has given a course of free lectures, by resident citizens. Post Bosworth, No. 2, Graneo|)le. His suc- cessor, the Rev. William II. Feun, was installed in 1800. Nearly opposite this church stands the First Universalist Church, of which the Rev. W. E. Gibbs is pastor. This edifice was built in ISGo, at a cost of something more than $60,000. A little way down New High street we see the New Jerusalem Tem]p!c, in which the doctrines of Emanuel Swedenborg are jirumulgated. This church, which has a Congress Squaro, from head of Free Street. somewhat ]K'culiar style of architecture, was built in 1868. The Rev. Wil- liam B. Hayden was for many years pastor of this society. The Rev. J. K. Smyth is the ])resent ])astor. Just beyond the square, on the continuation of Congress street, stands Plymouth Church, a brick structure, with a .s.piare lower. The old Third Parish Society, to which the Rev. Dr. William T. Dwight ministered for so many years, was merged with this church a few years since. The ])resent ])astor is the Rev. D. M. Seward, D. D. Having now completed the circuit of tiie churches which surround the Square we niighi. if time allowed, linger long about some of the old man- sions in and near it, pari icuhiil y llic Alallli.'W C'>\A< house, which stands on FOBTLAND AND VICIXITy. 59 the corner of High street, a square, old-fashioned mansion, which carries ns back some sixty or seventy years to the time wlien its owner and occupant was one of our leading merchants, with a numerous family about him, keej)- ing his carriage and coachman, and entertaining his friends with a generous hospitality; or the McLellan mansion, next below the High Street Churcli, an edifice which still preserves the old-time architecture and rich internal finish, and is now the residence of Hon. L. D. M. Sweat. It was over the high fence surrounding the garden of this mansion that one of our native artists, when a boy, first caught sight of a statue, and thereafter was accustomed to run away on Sundays from his own church, that he might sit in the gallery of High Street Church, and, looking out of the Congress and Park Streets. — Residence of Dr. Small window, feast his eyes on the art treasures of what seemed to him a veri- table Paradise. He has since seen the master-pieces of the old world, but we doubt if any of them awakened in his mind such feelings of pleasure and admiration as did those figures in the garden of this home of taste and wealth. Before we leave the Square let us drop down New High street, a little way, and glance at the elegant and costly private residences which line the new Deering street, running parallel with Congress street, on the slope below it. How little time it seems since all this region was an open pas- ture, — " Ross's pasture," we boys used to call it, when we went there to "play ball," or at sunset to sit on the ledges and watch the sun go down behind the hills, shedding a last lingering glory on the clouds, which the 60 POnTLAM) AM) VIVIXITY. tranquil waters of the Cove gave back with answering colors. Wealth and taste have here been lavished in the construction of some of these modern residences, and the street, though still new, and bordering on vacant spaces, is one of the handsomest in the city, representing the wealth and taste of to-day as State street does those of half a century ago. But it is time to move on. Continuing uj) Congress street we pass the house of Dr. Horatio N. Small, at the corner of Park street, glancing down which we catch a glimpse in tlio distance of the Park Street (Unitar- ian) Church, erected in 1828, by the Methodists, and sold in 1835 to the Second Unitarian Society, over which the Rev. Jason Whitman was first settled, and of which the Rev. Charles W. Buck was ilie last settled iiastor. State Street, ftum Cor.gnjss. Our attention is next attracted by St. Stephen's Cliurch, a picturesque Gothic edifice, built of our native slate-rock, massive and handsome. It was erected in 1854, and the Rev. Asa Dalton has been rector of the cliurdi since ISi;;?. This liriugs us to thi' head of State street whicli conies in diagonally on the left, and continuing across Congress street, slojies down tlirough the vacant land to Portland street. State street (the gift of one of our early merchants, Joseph IT. Ingraham), is the handsomest avenue for private resi- dences in the city. Ot great width, it is lined on each side with two rows of lofty elms, whose overhanging liranches embower it in foliage. Between the two rows of trees, outside each sidewalk, there runs n grassy plot, which gives the street a jtark-like ajipearance. The large and subst;nitial mansions PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 61 here are chiefly of the olden time ; each with lis sjjacious garden in the rear. This house with plain granite front, on the left, near the head of the street, was the residence of .John Neal, the poet and novelist. That large, square mansion, a little farther down, across the way, was long the residence of the late Hon. William Pitt Fessenden, and in the garden in the rear he found health and recreation in pruning his fruit trees. The neighboring house was occupied by the late George F. Shepley. The mansions on this southwest- erly side of the street, as we have said, are of the stately and spacious old- fashioned style, each standing in the midst of extensive grounds. As a con- trast, take the elegant modern residence of C. R| A. Brown, Esq., on the opposite side of the street, which well represents the architectur- al taste of the day. State street has three houses of worship, of each of which we must say a word. The first, on the left, as we pass down, is the State Street Congregational Church, the so- ciety worship- ino" ITI -wTii^l State Street. — Residence of the late Judge George F. Shepley. was an offshoot from High Street Church. The edifice was erected in 1852, mainly of brick, in the Gothic order, with a lofty and graceful spire of wood, which was taken down in 1871, from a feeling that it was insecure, leaving the wooden tower in a mutilated condition. The Rev. Edward T. Hincks was the pastor during the years 1870 to 1881. A little farther down the street we come to St. Luke's Cathedral, built in 1867, of blue limestone, with trimmings of red and gray freestone, in the early Gothic stj'le. This church is not yet completed, the present structure being the main edifice to which a transept is to be added at the north end. The interior is very richly finished. St. Luke's is the first edifice erected by Protestants in 62 POIiTLAM) A\l) ViriXlTY. New England for a Cathedral, or Bishop's Church, and its service is more ritualistic than that of an ordinary jiarish church. It is intended as a center for the Episcopal C'iiuicli in tlie diocese, and is under the imme- diate charge of the Bishop, — an oflice now filled by Bisliop Neely. Still farther down, on the ojiposite side of the street, stands the Ro- man Catholic Church of St. Dominic's, built in 1830. Connected with it, but fronting on Gray street, is the large Catholic School of St. Dominic's, erected in 18C5. Its teachers are the Sisters of Notre Dame, and it will accommodate about four hundred scholars. On the corner of Dan- forth and State streets rises a large, three-story brick mansion, occupied as the Female Orphan Asylum, where between thirty and forty girls are cared for, ,v. Stroet-Resideno, of C. A. Brown. g^J p^,^^ Jjj^q otllCr homCS as they grow u]). This institution was established in 1828, through the contributions of benevolent citizens; has always been well managed by a board of ladies, and now holds property to the value of at least ^50,000. On Pine street, near the junction of State and Congress, may be seen llic Pine Street (ilelhodist) Church, a unique brick edifice, which shows what can be done in the way of ada})ting a ])iece of architecture to a limited lot of ground. It was built in ISTri. Near the head of ^Mellen street, where it enters Congress street, we pause to look off u])on " tlie liifezy iloine of proves, The shadows of Dccriiifj's Woods," of which Longfellow sings again : "And Dct'riiig's Woods nrp fi'osli .ind fair, .\nd witli joy Hint is .ilinost pain Jly licart f;oes l)acl\ to wander tlu're, And anionj; tlio dreams of Hie days tliut were, I And my lost youth aijain." Many another Portland buy lliids liis lost youth again as he recalls the days I'OliTLAND AND VIVIMTY. 63 when he went "acorniiig" in Deering's Woods. The view from this point is wide and beautiful. Congress street, as we Iiave said, runs along the ridge of the pe- ninsula, which, at this point, slopes rapidly down to the head of the creek running in from Back Cove. On the shore of this creek rise Deer- ing's Woods, a tract of wood- land which has now come into possession of the city, and is to be preserved as Congress and Dow streets.— Residence of General Neal Dow. a public park. Congress street here hsoks off over " the breezy dome ' of these woods, ' commanding a view of the vil- lages in Deer- ing, the diver- sified country beyond, and the snow-clad peaks of the White Mount- ains on the dim horizon. Moving on past the resi- dence of Gen- eral Neal Dow, at the corner of Congress and Dow streets, we come to Walk- er street o-lanc- Bracket* and Walker Streets.— Residence of Albion Little. ing up which we see, at the corner of Brackett street, the residence of 64 rOIlTLAXD AXD VICIXITY. Albion Little, Esq., and soon after turn to the left into Bramhall street, at whose junction witli Brackett street we come upon the Reservoir of the Portland Water Works, supplied b}- Lake Sebago, seventeen miles dis- tant, and having an area of one hundred thousand square feet, with a ca- pacity of about twelve millions of gallons. Turning now again to the right we pass into Arsenal street, and find ourselves in front of the Maine General Hospital, standing on the brow of Bramhall's Hill, on the site of the oUl State Arsenal. This noble institu- tion, incorjioratcd by Act of Legislature in 18G8, aided by Slate bounty and the contributions of private citizens, was dedicated in October, 1874. The Stato Reform School. plan of the hospital contemplates a cluster of buildings, embodying all the modern improvements of good ventilation, free admission of air and sun light, with an adequate supjily of heat and jjure water. This ]dan reqiiires time for its completion, and as yet only the central building and eastern ])avilion are finished and brought into use. These arc liandsome structures of brick, in the Italian-gothic style, four stories high; the private ajiart- inents and wards being very neatly finished. The establishment of the in- stitution is largely due to the efforts of our ]ihysicians and surgeons, who render important services without pecuniary compensation. Having as yet no fund to draw \\\m\\ for charitable ]>urpc)scs, it is necessary to charge POliTLAND AND VICINITY. 65 Some of our Cna 66 POIITLAXD AND VICIXITY. ]i:Uic'nts a fixed sum per week, ■\vliieh is put at the lowest ])os- silile figure. For pa- tients of ordinary means the price is sev- en dollars per week in the wards profier, whirh includes board, medical attendance, and medicine; and about twice this sum for those occupying ]irivate rooms. On .•idinission a deposit of five weeks' board is required in advance simply for security ; and in case a patient does not remain in the lii)s])ital five weeks the balance is paid back. There are at ])rcsent eight free beds established by private subscri]ition, and it is hoped the II umber will be in- (TiasiMl. Patients h.ive been received from all parts of tlie State, — Portland fur- nishing only about t \v e n t y )' e r cent, of the number. This is a State institution, now in its infancy, l)ut destined to grow in ust'fulness with the munificence of the State, and of ])rivatc binef.'ictors. It stands ui)on a breezy, iiealth- PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 67 ful site, and its windows look out upon a broad expanse of country, bounded by distant mountains, and comprising a lovely prospect. A few steps now bring us out upon the Western Promenade, which runs along the brow of Bramhall's Hill, and commands a wide and varied landscape. In 1680 George Bramhall (from whom the hill takes its name) came here, and buying a tract of four hundred acres, hewed himself out a home in the primitive forest which then covered the hill, and pursued his BramhaH's Hill. — Residence of the ^ate Hon- John B Brown. trade as a tanner. The hill here falls off suddenly ; the steep descent being partially clothed with odorous pines. At its foot the green lateral ridges tell the tale of some pre-historic Innd.slide, when a great river flowed where now the railroad runs. It was down there, where we see the Deering Man- sion, on the right, that Major Church wliip))ed the Indians in September, 1689; in which fight George Bramh.all w.as killed. We may be sure it was an hour of rejoicing when, about sunset, the troops marched back, with 68 POUTLAND AND VICINITY. flying colors, through the woods, to the little village then two miles away at the other end of the peninsula. That large building which we see, a few miles distant, is the State Reform School, where a hundred and thirty or forty boys — the waifs and astrays of society — are put to useful jiursuits under reformatory influences. The prison-like features of the institution have been eliminated, and the boys are now divided into three grades, and for good conduct are promot- ed through them, from the lowest to the highest. Let us seat ourselves here and look into the sunset. The gleamins; waters of Fore River on one hand, and of Back Cove on the other, almost encircle the elevation on whose brow we sit. Tlie green slope of the hill Spring and Neal Streets. — Residence of Hon. Israel Washburn, Jr. Stretches aw.-xy into a wide prospect of field and woodland, diversified by villages and farm-houses, and swelling in the distance into forest-clad hills. With Abncr Lowell's sketch of the summits to be seen from this |point in our hands, wo may make out the Town Hall and Congregational Clnirch in Gorham, Me., and behind them Ossipee Mountain, in New Hani]ishirc, (ifty-three miles away. Also, farther to the east, the church in Standish, Me., with the ])eak of old Chocorua rising far beyond it. Sweejiing along the billowy line we see Mount Carrigain, sixty-three miles distant ; nearer at hand the long line of Saddleback, in Sebago, Me. ; and then the eye strikes the White Mountain range, and climbs from peak to jteak, over Mounts Willard, Webster, .Tackson, I'leasant, Franklin, and Munroe, to the wiiite dome of Mount Washington, mingling with the clouds on the horizon. FOllTLAXD AND VICimTY. 69 The inner line of the Promenade is bordered with fine residences, most notable of which is that of the late John B. Brown, standing in the midst of ten acres of highly improved and cultivated land, with gardens adorned with rare plants and statuary, and overlooking a wide extent of beautiful scen- ery. Moving on, and glancing down S p r i n g street, we see the splendid modern man- sion of the Hon. Israel Washburn, Jr. Passing down by the Western Cemetery we come upon the residence of Harry B. Brown, artist, whoso studio, attached to his house, is an attractive point for all lovers of art. Here we strike Danforth street, and turning east- ward pass the fine resi- dence of T. C. Horsey, Esq., seated high in the midst of ornamental grounds, and command- ing a wide view of the harbor, the cape, and the ocean beyond. ^iy _ On the opposite side '~~~ t^^ of the street, a little far- -- S! ther down, are the twin Danforth Street. — Residence of T. C. Hersey. Spring and Emery Streets. — Residence of S. C. Andrews. 70 PORTLAXD AND riCINITY. - ( of Andrew and Samuel E. Spring. mansions of Messrs. Andrew and Samuel E. Spring. On Etncry street, which enters liere, we see the Home for Aged Women, a hand- some brick edi- fice, where some twenty or more old ladies pass the evening of their days in quiet and com- fort, jiaying only an entrance fee of one hundred dollars. Tlie in- stitution isunder till' charge of an association of ladies rcjiresent- ing the various churches of the city. Among other Pin* and Ltwii Streets.— Ratidence of Holman S. Melchor. POnrLAND AND VICINITY. 71 fine residences in tliis part of tlie city we may mention those of Sullivan C. Andrews, Esq., on the corner of Spring and Emery streets, and H. S. Melcher, Esq., on the corner of Pine and Lewis streets. Continuing down Danforth street, to the corner of Park street, we come upon the elegant mansion of Haggles S. Morse, Esq., built of free- Danforth and Park Streets. — Residence of Ruggles S. Morse. Stone, in a highly ornamented style; a fine specimen of architectural taste, and the most costly private residence in the city. A little farther down, on the corner of High street, we may contrast this modern residence with the old-time mansion of John Mussey, Esq., a building of spacious front, seated in the midst of its old-fashioned garden, and surrounded with magnificent elms, whose lofty summits and wide- sweeping branches are worth coining far to see. Turning now up High street we are soon in Congress Square again, and so ends our second walk. 72 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. FROM MARKET SQUARE TO INDIA AXD COMMERCIAL STREETS. If the visitor again finds himself in Market Square, some bright morn- ing, he cannot do bettor than turn eastward and saunter down Middle street. This is one of our oldest thoroughfares, having been accepted by the town as long ago as 1724, previous to which time a path had been opened through the woods. It was originally called "the Middle street," from its relative position between " the Fore " and " the Back " streets, which [name it has ever since borne. Thougli originally occupied by the South Side of Middle Street, from Cross to Union. dwelling-liouses of the early settlers, the old-time mansions have long since given place to the demands of traffic, ami MiiMlu street is now one of our j)rineip;il hiisini'ss avenues, cliietly dovoled to tlie retail dry-goods trade. Leaving Military Hall on the left, we pass down Miildlc street from the point whei'e it enters the stpiare to its junction with Free street. This portion tjf the street escajred the fire of lSlj('>, ami the stores here are plain brick structures, some of them of comparatively ancient ilate. That low PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 73 block of two stories, on the left, is a spared monument of the great fire, having been saved from destruction, while the stores on both sides of it were leveled to the ground. It was remodeled in 1873, the three original stories being reduced to two, but its low roof, in contrast with the loftier structures around it, still serves to remind us of the humbler style of build- ing which prevailed fifty years ago. Free street enters here, forming a "heater." The lower end of this street, where it joins Middle street, is devoted to business and contains some fine stores. In Free Street Block is the Portland School for the Deaf, supported in part by the city, for the instruction of deaf mutes, who are here taught to speak. Falmouth Hotel. All now before us, down Middle street, is fresh and new. The fire of 1866 leveled everything here, and the new business structures which have arisen from the ruins far outshine the old in loftiness and architec- tural pretentions. Some are of brick covered with mastic; some of hand- some pressed brick, with Albert-stone trimmings; others of Connecticut freestone, and some of granite, many having iron pillars, caps, sills, and ornamentations. The styles are various, and often ornate, the warerooms spacious and handsome. As far along here as the eye can sweep the street architecture is of a noble and attractive character, the blocks of warehouses beinsr diversified with hotels and bank buildings. 74 roirri.AXD and vivimty. The plainest block is Mussey's Row, high up on the wall of which a marble slab tells the story of tlie ravages of lire on this sjiot : "Homestead of Beniiimiii Mussey, A. D. 1749. Mussey's How begun by his son, John Mussey, in 1791), — completed in 1801. Partially burnt, and rebuilt by him. in 1815. Partially burnt, and rebuilt iu 1852 by his sou, John Mussey. Wholly burnt, and rebuilt in ISJO by the same. Wholly burnt iu the great tire of July 4th and 5th, 18UU, and rebuilt by the same." Here, at the corner of Union street, stands the Falinotith, otir largest hotel, a magnificent structure, built by lion. John B. Brown, after the tire of 186G. The front is of Albertrstone, the side walls of ]>resse(l brick, with Tirit National Bank. Albert-Stone trimmings. It has a frontage on Middle street of one hundred and fifty-three feet, by one hundred and seventy-four on Union street; is six stories on Middle and seven on Union street, and contains two hundred and forty rooms, and ten large stores. It is fully equipped witli all the con- veniences of a modern first-class hotel, including an elevator, and bathing- rooms on all the principiil floors. Adjoining the F:ilnni\itli, on the corner of Phim street, is the red sand- stone building of the First National Bank. A little farther down, on the opposite side, is the fine granite frmit of tlie Casco Bank buil.ling, occu- PORTLANJJ AND VICINITY. lb pying the site of the old " Sun Tavern," hiter known as the Casco House, whence, in days of yore, the stages were wont to depart for the country towns. This house, in the time of tlie Revolution, was the residence of Brigadier Jedediah Preble. His son. Commodore Edward Preble, aftei'- wards lived and died in it. It is a singular coincidence that this house in which the Commodore lived, and the one which he built and which was long occupied by his widow, (the present Preble House), should both have been converted into hotels. The Maine Savings Bank has its banking-rooms on the corner of Plum street, under the St. Julian, formerly a hotel, con- ducted on the European plan, and a little further along is the handsome Canal Bank building, of red freestone. A few steps now bring us to Exchange street, anciently call- ed Fish, opened in 1724. From Middle to Fore street it is five hundred feet long, and is lined with handsome business blocks from end to end, the last gap left by the fire of 1866 — which laid low every building upon it — having been filled by the erec- tion of "Stanton Block" (named in honor of the famous War Sec- retary) in 1875, by Hon. W. W. Thomas. On this street, oppo- site the entrance of Milk street, our Board of Trade has its head- quarters : an organization of our leading business men, which has done much to promote the pros- '^^^'^° ^^"^ perity of the city. Here also is the Merchants' Exchange, with its reading- room, whither our merchants resort for information, bargaining, and con- sultation. All who have an eye for fine architectural effects will admire the facade of the Merchants' Bank on this street. That part of Exchange street which runs from Middle to Congress street was laid out in 1793, and originally called Court street. On the northeast corner of Middle and Exchange streets stands the Post-Office, an elegant b\ulding of Vermont marble, occui>vin2; a square liv itself. Its 76 POliTLAXD AM) VlriyiTY. pure white walls are in strong contrast to the warmer-colored brick build- ings about it, and it looks a little cold in its elegance and chasteness. Its cost was half a million dollars. The ground floor is occupied for the Post- Office, and the second story for United States court-rooms and offices. This is the third costly post-office building that has occupied this site, — the other two having been destroyed by fire. The first post-office in Falmouth, under authority of the Continental Congress, was established in 1776, by Benja- South side of Middle StfOet, from Plum to Enchange. min Franklin, Postmaster General for the United Colonics. Deacon Sam- uel Freeman was tlie first postmaster, his commission bearing date October 5, 177i). We liave had sixteen jiostmasters, the jiresent incumbent being ex-Judge Ciiarles W. Godflaid. Judge Goddard has obtained from the records at Washington the following list of the postmasters of Portland since the organization of the American postal service under Postmaster GenoTMl I''r,uikliii : "Dcacim Samuel Freeman, a]i]ii)inti'd October 5, 1775; POBTLAyo AND VICINITY. 77 Thomas M. Prentiss, July 1, 1804; Joshua Wingate, Jr., February 20, 1805; James Wingate, August 9, 1805; Rob- ert Ilsley, June 1, 1815; Mark Harris, 1823; Dr. Nathaniel Low, December 3, 1823 ; Nathaniel Mitchell, April 9, 1829; Thomas Todd, December 8, 1834; Na- thaniel Mitchell, September 11, 1839; Colonel Sylvanus R. Lyman, May 4, 1841; Nathan L. Woodbury, Aiu-il 2, 1845; Joshua Dunn, May 5, 1849; Na- than L. Woodbury, April 1, 1853; Sam- uel Jordan, April 1, 1857 ; Maj. Andrew T. Dole, April 8, 1861 ; Judge Woodbury Davis, December 9, 1865; Charles W. Goddard, October 7, 1871." Daring the first year after its estab- lishment only eighty-four letters were Canal Bank, received at this post-office, — the mail running once si week. In 1880 this office paid the Govern- ment a profit of $108,380.71. Twenty-three clerks and ten car- riers are employed in the office, and fourteen route .agents distri- bute the mails on the various lines of railway radiating from this point. In 1804 the daily western mail was a new undertaking; now twenty-five mails arrive and de- part daily. Merchants Bank. Glancing up Exchange street we see the fine block of the Portland Savings Bank, and not far above it 78 POBTLAXD AXD VICiyiTY. the Printers' Exchnnge, Mliere are issued tlie Daily Argus (Democratic), the Daily Press (Republican), and several weekly newspapers, including Zinn's Advocate (Bijitist), and Christian ]Mirror. The Daily Advertiser is ])ublislied at 197 Federal street; the Portland Transcript (literary and fam- ily weekly), 44 Exchange ; the Sunday Times (Independent), 31 Market ; Portland Globe, UOi^ Exchange; Daily Morning News, corner Middle and Temple ; City Item, 7 Exchange street. Continuing down Middle street, below Exchange, we enter the region of wliolesale dry-goods, clothing, hardware, crockery, and druggist ware- liouses, built since the fire of 1866, previous to which time trade had made " but very few encroachments u]p(in the iiM family estates ill til is direc- tidii. Here, on the left, was the old Plant Sawyer man- sion, a fine resi- dence seated in the midst of an extensive and wcll-kc]it gar- den. It was for sonic years the residence of the Hon. John M. Wood. Its site is now covered Exchange Street, from Middle to F^.. l'-: •.. with busiuCSS blocks. Just ojipositc stood the unfinished marble liotel commenced by Mr. Wood, but never completed. On this site iMessrs. Stover I'.ros. & Co. are now (1881) building a handsome block of stores. Here we cross Pearl street, a wide avenue extending straight across the city from water to water. This street was laid out and widened after the great fire of 18G6. Previous to that time the cross streets in this vicin- ity were very narrow, this being the most ancient and dense part of tlie town. There were manv narrow lanes here in early times, some of which rOliTLAXD AXD VICiyiTY. 79 lioie odd names. Newbury street, for instance, was known as Turkey lane, and that part of Hampshire street which runs from Middle to Fore street was called Chub lane. Then tliere was Moose Alley, now Chatham street, which is said to have owed its name to the fact that a moose was, killed there in early times. Many of the houses standing here before the fire of 18G6 dated from the middle of the last century. The oldest house in the city — built by Enoch Moody, in 1740, — stood on the corner of Congress and Franklin streets. The oldest house now remaining in the city stands near the foot of Preble street. It is a one-story structure, built by Hugh McLellan, in 1755, __ _ on Congress, oppo- site Casco street. Mr. McLellan had the frame brought from Gorham, and built the house for his daughter, who married Joseph McLellan. It stood on that site for over one hundred years, and in 1866 was re- moved to its present position, where it is still used as a dwell- ing house. Owing to the fact that the city has been so many times swept by fire, we have no very ancient struc- ^-^^^^^^SES^^g?- tures remaining. Post office. The old m.ansions in this part of the city, long the homes of families prominent in our history, have all been swept .away. Our oldest church, the First Parish, has seen but fifty-six years. All where we are now walk- ing is the growth of the past fifteen years, except a few ancient and dilapi- dated dwelling-houses at the corner of Middle and India streets, which still linger among the modern structures around them to remind us of the days that are gone. At the corner of Deer street we come upon the spot wliere, up to 1866, stood the old Second Parish Ciiurch, with its wide brick pavement in front; a spot sacred to many from its association with the ministry of the sainted Payson, who preached here for twenty years. The clock in 80 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. the tower of this church was of great convenience to all doing business on Middle street, and after its destruction by the fire of 1866 many an eye was involuntarily cast in this direction to learn the time o' day. The site of the church is now covered by a block of cheap shops. In this vicinity we come ujion traces of the great fire. This jiortioii of ^liddle street, i)rcvious to 1866, was occupied by dwelling-houses, which ha\ L' been in part replaced by stores, while spaces still remain vacant w.nx- ing for the demands of business, it being evident that the trade of the city _ must extend in this direction. At the junc- tion of Ilamji- shire street we reach the point where in early times a stream flowed across Middle street into Clay Cove, and was span- ned here by a bridge. The street has here been filled in and raised to nearly a uni- form grade, but the ancient lev- el may be seen by lodkiugover the wall into the s u n k e n Portland Savings Bank. £J''OUnds of the Thomas Browne estate, "where once the garden smiled." Clay Cove itself has also been filled up and Imilt u]ion. It lay just below this point, and in early times was a maikiil feature in the topoirrajihy of the town. Thirty ;iil\vay, whoso wharves and ocean sheds afford ma-jiiificent accommodations for its great freight business be- tween Canada ami Europe. Here are the wharves of the Dominion and Beaver lines of steamships, each of which furnishes a fortnightly means of communication between Portland and Liverpool for the half-year beginning Franklin Wharf, with Elevator. about November 15th. The steam- ships of these lines are fine iron-built ships. The amount of freight hand- led here during the year, bi'twi'en the railroad and the steamers, is immense, and the scene jirt'si'iiti'd during tl.e winter season is a busv one, giving the spectator enlarged ideas of the eommerce of our port. Just here, too, begins our wholesale business avenue. Commercial street, one hundred feet wide and a mile long, running across the whole water- front of the city, with a railroad track in the middle of it, connecting the Grand Tiunk with the railroads ruuning east and west, amj with branches down the wharves for the accommodation of shipping. Here was anciently a short street, accepted in 1724, and known as Thames street. It is now absorbed in Commercial street, and no longer exists. Commercial street conlaiTis nianv fine blocks of wholesale warehouses, and bv its near access POUTLAND ASD VICINITY. 83 to all the wharves, and its railroad aceominodations, — bringing the pro- ducts of the Great West to the doors of our merchants, — affords rare fa- cilities for the reception and shipment of goods. In the busy season it presents an animated scene. Let us stroll along this business thoroughfare and note the jirincipal objects of interest. Here, on the right, is a relic of other days, strangely out of keeping with the substantial warehouses among which it stands. It is the old family mansion built by the widow of Brigadier Preble, in 1780, on the site of her father's house which was burned in the destruction of the town by Mow- att, in 1775. This was then a beautiful retired situation, looking out upon the harbor, and the house was surround- ed by a garden filled with fruit and orna- mental trees. Forty years ago Lemuel Dyer lived in this house, and built shijis in the rear of it. Opposite this house is Gait's wharf on which stands the new grain elevator built by the Grand Trunk Railway Company, in 1875, at a cost of $50,000. Custom House. It has a length of 101 feet, a width of 53 feet, and a total height, includ- ing the three-story cupola, of 107 feet. It is fitted with dock elevators for loading and unloading vessels, and with large steam shovels for unloading cars. It has 42 bins for holding grain, each 46 feet deep, and the total capacity of the whole structure is 200,000 busliels. We come next to Franklin wharf, where lie the Boston steamers, run by the Portland Steam Packet Company, formed in 1844, and very suc- cessfully managed by such men as Captain J. B. Coyle and the late Leon- ard Billings. At this wharf also lie the steamers of the Maine Steamship Company, which maintains a semi-weekly line to New York, under the management of Henry Fox, the general agent. A short walk brings us to the Custom House, a handsome granite 84 rOUTLA.W A.W VICIXITX. Structure, which fronts ii])oii both Commercial and Fore streets. Completed in 187:2, at a cost of *i4S5,UU0, this is one of the most substantial, conven- ient, and elegant buildings in the whole country. The interior is richly finished, and affords ample accommodation for the transaction of the busi- ness of the customs. The first officer connected will) the collection of duties at this port was Moses Pearson, who was appointed in 1730. The present IT. S. Collector of the District is the Hon. Lot M. Morrill. -V large busi. ness is transacted here, the average annual amount of duties collected for some years past not being far from §1)00,(100. In addition to the regular imports and exports, the railroad connection with Canada brings a large transit business, so that while, in amount of duties uj)on consumption and warehouse entries, Portland is the seventh or eighth port in the United Commercial Street, from foot of Cross Street, looking towards Grand Trunk Depot. States, in amount of duties assessed upon all goods passing through the Custom House, it is the tliird or fourth. We are now in the center of the wholesale trade in West India goods, flour and grain, to which, among others, the Thomas Block of substanti:d warehou.ses gives amjde accommodation. Here, too, are the coal-yards, and the fish-markets, where a large wholesale business in fresh fish is transacted. Looking eastward from the corner of Cross street, a busy scene is presented to the eye. Long lines of freight cars stand in the middle of the street, from wliich barrels of flour are rolleil on skids into the iloors of the ware- houses; lumpers ;iii(l 'Imigshoremen are discharging corn from other cars in baskets on their sliciulilcrs; heavy teams are transporting goods to the wharves, for shi|imciit l)v ]iacket or steamer to eastern ))orts; crowds of pleasure-seekers are crossing the street to reach the Islaml steamers, while groups of merchants, shipmasters, sailors, and ilay-laborers diversify the scene. POIiTLAXD AXD VICI.VirY. S.} Passing on, we enter the region of the lumber trade, — an important interest, ^ — with wharves covered with the products of mills in the inter- ior, brought down by rail for ship- ment. Here the street is reduced to a shelf of land by the high bank of York street, wall- ed up, under which runs the trains of the Bos- ton and Blaine Railroad. Its sta- tion is on one side of the street, and that of the Eastern Railroad — which also accommodates the Maine Central and Portland and Ogdensburg trains — is on the other. These are at the head of Railroad wharf, where lie the steamers of the International Steam- ship Company, which, during the excursion season, make tri-weekly trijss to Eastport and St. John, connecting with steamer running to the picturesque isl.and of Grand Menan, now visited by an increasing number of tourists ; also with the city of Fredericton, on the St. John ; with Ilalifa.x, N. S.; Charlottetown, P. E. I., and all parts of the ^Maritime Provinces. The steam- ers running to Mt. Desert and Machias also land at the same wharf. These latter steamers, during the summer, make the following trips to the great sea-side resort, Mt. Desert, connecting with railroads running to and from Portland : the steamer City of Richmond will leave Railroad Wharf every Monday, Wednesday and Friday night, at 11 p. m , or on arrival of trains from the West; the steamer Lewiston every Tuesday and Friday. 86 rOHTLAXD AXI) VKISITY. THE ISLANDS. From the earliest times the islands in our harbor have been much re- sorted to by our citizens for recreation during the heats of summer. Cool- ness and comfort are to be found on their rocky shores wlicn the city is swelteriiiii; umlcr a blazinsr sun. The amusements of bathini' and fishinc; may be diversified by strolls through balsamic groves, or by watching the surges of the restless ocean as they break in foam at the base of old White Scene at end of Custom House Wharf.— " Off for the Islands!" IFond. Yo.nrs ago, before j)k'asure-stcamers were introduced, it was the cus- tom to make the trip in sail-boats. By mismanagement, or sudden squalls of wind, those were sometimes upset, aiid whole parties of women and child- ren were drowned. One of the most lamentable of these disasters occurred in July, 1848, when the wife and three children of Mr. Smith, and four children of ]Mr. John Whyley, were drowned by the upsetting of the pleas- ure-lxiat Leo, near Hog Island Ledge, by a .sudden flaw of wind. Since the introduction of steamboats very few accidents have occurred, many thous.-inds each season enjoying the trip with entire safety. If we chance to be on Commerci.al street some warm, summer al'ter- noon, we shall see crowds of men, women, and children converging toward .the end of Custom House wliarf, where the Gazelle and the Express, steam- ers of the Casco Bay Slearnboat C'omjiany, take their de]>arture. Or, at an earlier liour, excursion jiarties, numbering hundreds, whicli have come by rail from some distant interioi' town, in.iy lie t'cunid in jiursuit of the same object. The harlior ;it this time picMiils .in .-inimated and beautiful rOUTLAXD A.\D VICIMTY. 87 scene. The breeze ruffles the wiiter just sufficiently to give commotion to its surface; the dancing waves gleam in llie bright al'tcrnnon sunshine; the liarbor is perlni])s full of coasters, i.ileasure-} aclils, and sail-boats, whose white sails, lioisted td dry after the rain, remind one of the wings of a flock of water-fowl just rising for fliglit; sea-gulls wheel through liie air on the watch for bits of food floating on the water; row-boats are mov- ing about from point to [)oint ; the ferry-boat is steaming over to the oppo- site shore of Cape Elizabeth ; and crowds of merry pleasure-seekers are swarming on the decks of the Gazelle. As she moves off from the wharf and steams down the harbor, the city with its docks, ^^ its shipping, its warehouses, its stee|)les, its "breezy dome " of shade trees, and the gilded summit of City Hall, rises on its swelling peninsula, presenting a beau- tiful picture. Presently we are o]ipo- the Breakwater, extending from a ;abeth shore, for Breakwater Light, with Cushing's Island and Fort Preble in the distance. protection of the shipping in southwesterly gales, with a harbor-light on its outer end to jirotect them from itself! The Breakwater was commenced ■as long ago as 1836, but was finished oidy eight or ten years since. The light-house at its extremity is a very tasteful little structure of iron. Now we are off Fort Preble, named for our Commodore Edward Preble, antl situated on Spring Point, Cape Elizabeth. The old brick fort has been demolished to give place to new breastworks not yet completed. Here the harbor garrison is stationed, and at close of day we may hear the sunset gun, and tlie drums beating the "tattoo." Nearly opposite, on House Island, is Fort Scammell, named for Colonel Alexander Scammcll, a brave officer of the Revolutionary army. The original fort, commenced in 1808, with its old-fashioned block-house, has been dismantled to give place to a modern fortification, with bastions, bomb-proofs, and heavy guns. Fort Scammell occupies a very important position in the harbor, 88 rOMTL^UVn AND VIVISITY. commanding four of llie channels leading into it. It consists in part of granite walls, and in jiarl of eartiiworks. Farther within the harbor, on a low ledge off Little Hog Island, stands Fort Gorges, named for Sir Fer- dinando Gorges, tlie first proin-ietor of tliis ]iart of .Alaini'. It is octngoii- Steamer John Brooks, for Boston, passing Fort Scamnnell. ?^. shape as regards the form of about three-fourths of its circumference, the back being straight ; is built of granite, witli embrasures for two tiers of guns, while on the ]iarM)iot guns of tjie licav. iest calibre will lie |>l:iceil. 'i'liis fort is iiileiid- ed to defend the harbor and the channels leading into it. It jnesents (|uile an iin])osing appearance witli its high granite walls, and green par.'ipets, which are neatlv sodded. Passing down the sl]i]i-channcl a short ilistancc we rcacli CUSHIXC-S ISLAM) Cusliinor's Island lies at the mouth of rortland Ilarltor, its sotilhern end forininLr ""c shore of the ship-channel wliicii is the main entrance to the harbor. It has the most bold and prnminciit features of all the islands in the b:iy. Kising to a considcr.ible altittide, its st>utheastcrn shore ]>ro- senls a rocky and ])rcci]Mtons front to the sea, terminating at the nortli- eastern end in ■\ caslclla1( d l)liitT nf |ici|icndicul,ir rock ncarlv one Iniinlrtd POBTLAXD AND Vlfl.XITr. 89 Cape Elizabeth opposite to it, were known, was Portland, as was also the main channel between them, "Portland Sound." James An- drews was the first proprietor ; he was living upon it in 1667, and it was known by his name. Later, it was known as Fort Island, prob- ably from its having been a place of retreat from the Indians in 1676, when a fort was hastily thrown up there for protection. It afterwards came into possession of Joshua Bangs, whose name it bore for more than a hundred years. About thirty-one yeai-s since it was purchased, for ten thousand dollars, by Lemuel Gush- ing, Esq., of Chatham, Canada, who in 1853 built a large brick hotel on the island, which he named the Ottawa House. This house has long been a favorite resort of the best class of Cana- dians, who fill it to its utmost ca- pacity during the summer months. On the death of Mr. Cushing, a few years since, the property came into possession of his sons, who now contemplate making large im- provements on the island. The original house will accom- modate one hundred and fifty guests, and the contemplated addi- tions will increase its capacity to two hundred and fifty. The sum- mer climate of the island is very equable and healthy, the average range of the thermometer, in the rooms, being from 65 to 68 degrees throughout tlie season. The bal- samic odors of the firs and sjn-uces mingling with the fresh sea-breezes 90 POItTLAND AND VICIXITY. have a bracing and tonic effect. Good beaches afford oi)portunities for sea-balliing, wliilc botli the shore and deep-sea fishing are excellent, din- ners are caught from the rocks, and off White Head cod and haddock abound. Tiic island has capabilities of becoming one of the best watering- places on the coast. As the whole island belongs to tlie pro]irictors, the guests have the entire freedom of it, without the fear of trespassing. Through the kindness of the Messrs. Gushing it is also ojien to jiicnic parties and campers-out, though the shooting of birds is properly forbid- den. Among contemplated improvements are summer cottages, for fami- Ono of the Beaches on Cushing's Island. lies, and possibly a diive around tlie island, five miles in length, which would command miigniiicent sea views. There is a good ro:id from the wlKirf to the hotel, and a carriage for the accommodation of guests. A bowling-salodii :ind billiard-ronm assist in furnishing .•iniusement. On landing from the steamer do not take the open road to the hotel, but rather follow the path which leads past the cottages to the willowy dell where stands the old farm-house. This liollow, into which you de- scend by steps cut in the green bank, is a surprise and a delight — the beauty-spot of the island, in strong contrast to the wildness of White PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 91 Head. That looks sternly out on the heaving sea; this nestles beneath old willows, through which you catch glimpses of the smoother waters of the main entrance to the hai-bor, and the opposite shore of Cape Elizaheth. A bit of the Shore on Cushing's Island. That is a bold headland, standing on which, in an easterly storm, the ad- mirer of the sublime in nature may see the waves break high in air as they ceaselessly beat at the base of the cliff; this is a dim]ile in the shore, smiling on a summer sea, where, seated on the grass, with the green wiU lows overhead, you may fancy yourself in a rural ]iaradise. This pleasant retreat slojies down to tlie beach, where are bathing- houses, and w here t h e smooth, hard sand, and the seclusion of the spot, in- V i t e to a tumble in the sea. Climbini,' now to the higher part of the island #!*- we come to the liotel, < standing on an elevated Ottawa House, Gushing s Island- site comm.anding magnificent views. Pause on the piazza and look towards the city. The view of it is the finest in our harbor. On the right lies House Island, with its fort; on the left, the shij^-channel, dotted with the 92 POniLAM) AXD VICLMTY. while sails of passing vessels, ■vvith the opposite shore of Cape Elizabeth, Fort Preble answering to Fort Scamnu-Il, and the projecting breakwater with its harbor-light. Across the harbor, in the distance, rises Munjoj-, with tlie "White Monntaiiis far beliind it, from which a cliain of lower hills stretches away to the west. The whole extent of the city is reveal- ed, from Munjoy to Braniliall, its s])ires rising above the foliage of the shade-trees at its western ind. Now if yon would have a still vider view, ascend to the cupola and look seaward. Tiie broad ocean is before you, stretching far away to the horizon, where the wliite sails of the mackerel fleet mingle with tlie sky-line. Far below yi)u lies IJam Island, with tlie surf beating on its ragged shores; eastward lie tlie out;r islands of the bay, and Half-way Kock, with its soli- tary light-liouse ; westward is Portland Light, and the Two-Lights on the Cajie; seaward the waves are all a-shimmer wilh sunlight, and departing shi]ps cleave swiftly through them. It remains only to visit White Head, the grand old headland that guards the eastern entrance to our harbor. It is a walk of a mile or more along the em- liowcred ])ath that runs through the evergreen woods. Here the clo.se-sct spruces shut out all sight of the sea, so near at hand, while yet the music of its breaking waves falls softly on the ear. One miglit think himself ilream- ing (if the ocean in some far inland foiest. Occasionally a break in the dense foliage gives a vii'w of idnstered stems, rising in "a dim, religious light," like the jiillars of some vast ca- tlu'di'al. The soft carpet of tlii' sod gives back no sound to your footfall, and the path is solitary, save the sentinel crow in sonic tall lir, who caws angrily at your intrusion. The walk ends on the ojn'u brow of ilu' preci- pice, from which the woods recede, leaving it to battle with the ocean in its native strength. Here the view widens on all sides. Just below, on the right, lie the low green shores of Peaks" Island; in the foreground, on the left, are seen the frowning walls of the forts; the city lies in the any, comprising an area of twenty-five acres, facing the harbor. The comi)any was incorjioratcd in rebruary, 1SG8, and the docks were formally 0]>cned in Sejjtcmber, 1SC9. There are two docks, the larger one having the greatest draught of water pertaining to .nny dock in the United States. It is 425 feet long, 100 feet wide, with a depth of water on the gate-sill of 23 feet, at ordinary high tide. The •lock would ])robably take in any vessel now afloat, exce])ting the Great Eastern. Powerful ])um])s, capable of emptying the basin in about two hours, arc worked by steam, in a building by its side. The gate fitting the entrance to the dock is constructed in the form of a vessel, with bow FOBTLAyo AXV VICIMTY. 105 and stern shaped alike. It contains about two hundred tons of baUast, besides compartments which may be filled with water. When the dock is to be opened, water is let in through the openings in the gate till the basin is filled; the water is pumped out of the compartments mentioned above, till the gate floats out of the grooves in which its ends and bot- tom are fixed ; the gate is then towed out of tlie way, and vessels enter. The next operation is to tow the gate back into position over the grooves, into which it fits, water-tight. When properly placed water is let into it and it sinks at once, and the dock is closed. Then the pumps begin to throw out the water from within the basin, in immense streams that as- tonish those who witness it for the first time. The vessels sink upon cradles placed for them, and are steadied, as the water leaves them, by various mechanical appliances. These docks are built on the plan of the Simpson patent, and cost about $250,000. At the end of the bridge, on the right, is a point of land where in the summer may often be seen a number of tents or shanties, occupied by Penobscot Indians. For many years they have annually visited this spot, and made it the headquarters of their trade in baskets. Formerly the place was quite isolated, but of late years the dwellings of the white man have crowded nearer to the shore, until now but a narrow space is left these descendcnts of the original proprietors of the soil. Whether they have any traditional right to an occupancy here we are unable to say; but the spot is one of those pleasant points of land on the seashore to which the Indians were accustomed to resort in the days of their su- premacy. A band of these Indians now encamps each season on Peaks' Island, where they make sale of their basket-work to visitors. There has been among them so large an intermixture with the French Canadians that many of them are now quite bleached out, and have little of the Indian about them except the clinging to a wandering and vagabond life. We are now in the village of Knightville. Here, on the Cape Eliza- beth shore, some thirty or more yeans ago, George Knight, a ship- builder, built him a house and set up a ship-yard. At that time the land lay vacant; but a thriving village, with its shops, its neat brick school- house, and its church, has gradually grown up around the original man- sion of Mr. Knight, and now numbers several hundred inhabitants. Ship building continues to be its jirincipal industry. Taking the left-liand road at the school-house, as we leave the vil- lage, we soon find ourselves climbing meeting-house hill, the summit of which commands a fine view of the city rising on the opposite shore. Here is the North (Congregational) meeting-house, with graveyard adjoining. Still bearing to the left we strike into the road which skirts the shore bordering on the entrance to the harbor, and come in view of the islands in the bay. If we turn aside down a cross road, a shoit way, we shall 106 PORTLAyn ASD VJCIXITY. come upon a fislierraen's village, quite by itself on the seashore, with its boats and nets, and lish-houses on the beach. Cushing's Island lies just opposite, and there is a fine view liere of passing shipping, and of the outer islands. Returning to the main road and driving on about a niile, with the sea constantly in view, we pass, on the left, the sum- mer cottage of Phillip II. Brown, Esq. Situated in the midst of well- kept grounds, on ^£ the edge of the cliff, it commands a fine view of the ocean and of the vessels passing in or out of the liar- bor. Glen Cove.— Summer Residence of Phiihp H. Btown. Not far bcVOnd we pass the entrance to Cajie Cottage, a seaside hotel, built by John Neal, and for many years occu])ied as a place of summer resort. Adjoining it is the mansion of the late Colonel John Goddard, built of the native gray rock, and perched, like an old-time castle, on the top of the cliff, looking seaward. The road here winds ])lcasantlv through a little green dell, and ]>re- sently comes out on the roadway leading to the new battery on Portland Head. This jioint is at the entrance to the ship-channel, along the shore of which we have been driving, and looks hroad off to the ocean. The battery, not yet completed, consists of • a scries of earthworks wlii^h will cover by its guns all the njiproaclies to the main channel leading into the harbor, and will prevent Ijy its fire an enemy's fleet from taking up, un- opposed, a position l)ehind Cushing's Island, from « liich to bombard Port- land or shell the shipjiing in the harbor. Close at liand, on the .angle of the shore made by the ship-cliannel with the mainland, stands Portland Light. This was the first light-house erected on this coast. It was completed and first lighted January 10th, 1701. It is a fixed light, one hundred and one feet above the sea level, and visible in cle;ir weather seventeen miles. Here is also a fog-trumpet, which in thick weather utters its loud wai'iiing notes to vessels approach- ing the land. Thel-e is a deep chasm in tiie cliff, just beyond the light- house, caused by the weiiring away of a seam of trap-rock, into which the sea flows, leaving it dry at low tide. PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 107 In a storm the waves break here magnificently, throwing their spray at times as high as the light-house. This is a grand exhibition which Port^ landers enjoy gratis, though not without peril. After a heavy gale parties frequently drive out to the Light to see the waves dash upon the sliore. A few years since two hackmen, who had driven parties here, ventured too far out u]H)n the rocks, when a great wave leaped up and swept them off, and their manirled remains were only recovered, wedded in amon<'- the rocks, some days later. The shore here, which trends away to the southwest, is bold and rocky, deeply worn by the beating waves which roll in from the Atlan- tic. In a storm the roar of the angry sea is lieard long before its white Poftland Light. caps come in sight ; the wind shrieks and bellows as though it were the mingled voices of ten thousand infuriated demons bent on tearing the ocean from its bed by its long white hair, flying in the gale; the long line of rocky shore is white witli creamy foam and flying spray ; the bil- lows run high on the broad bosom of the ocean, and break over every half-submerged reef and ledge ; far out on the Green Islands they are madly tumbling on the rocks; Ram Island Ledge is a line of leaping, foam-white water; Trundy's Reef, where the Bohemian met her fate, shows white above the surf, like the hungry teeth of some sea-monster; while beyond, the waves dashing on Broad Cove Ledge leap high in air, gi-eat volumes of se.a-foam, looking in the distance like angry sjiirits of the ocean striving to escape from its depths. Along the shore it is churn. lo.s I'OnTLAXI) AND VICIXITY. churn, churn among the rocks; leap, leap, leap against the cliffs, as if so many foaming monsters were rushing from the sea upon the land, wliile the swirl and swash of llie breakers in the chasms of the rocky wall end in spout- ing horns that throw their spray far over the shore. A short distance beyond the light- house, on the outer shore, stands the pic- turesque cottage of S. B. Beckett, Esq., built of the native rock, with a lofty, massive lower, commanding a wide view iL_ seaward. Here, on a calm summer af- ternoon, the scene is in strong contrast to that we have juat described. The ocean gently laps the rough ledges at the base of the cliff; its bosom is dot- ted with the sails of passing vessels, with here and there tlie smoke of a steamer on the hbrizon, while at niglitfall the great lanterns of the light-houses gleam Two-Lights, from the Mainland. out ill the distance. Just beyond this point we pass Pond Cove, where the sea breaks almost into the road, and a ride of a few miles brings us Octan House, Cape Elizabeth Coast. to the road leading off on the left to the Ca Lights, known as the Two-Lights. Here are tv iron light-houses, fifty-four feet high, one hundn and seventy-two feet above the level of the sea, built in \X~-i to replace tlie olal street of the village, lined with neat dwelling- houses, and present- ly come in sight of the United States Marine Hospital, sit- uated on Martin's Point, at the mouth of the Presumpscot, — here a wide estu- ary, opening to the sea. The hospital is a finely propor- tioned edifice, built of brick, and stands on an elevated site, overlooking the city, the bay with its is- lands, and the open sea in the di>tance. UmteO states Manne Hospital It is a healthful and attractive spot, and the extensive grounds afford ample space for out-of-door recreation. Crossing Martin's Point Bridge, which spans the Presumpscot and commands a beautiful view of the bay, we climb the hill and enter tlie road which skirts the "Foreside" of Falmouth. The spot we liave now reached is one of the three points on which the earliest settlements were made within the territory of ancient Falmoutli. While Winter was ])ur- suing liis commercial s])eeulations on the S])urwink, and Cleeves and Tucker were laying the foundations of a settlement on the Neck, Arthur Mack- worth was making for himself a home on this point. With the island 114 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. opposite, it afterwards bore his name ; now corrupted, as applied to the island, into Mackay. Mackwortli was in possession here as early as 1632. He had a grant of five hundred acres from Sir Ferdinando Gorges, and ' was one of the most respectable of the early settlers, serving as a magis- trate for many years. The road here runs for miles along the shore, which has many ]iic- turesque features. The seaward view is in wide contrast to that from the Ocean Koad on the C:ipe. There the broad Atlantic rolls in and breaks upon the shore; here the calm waters of Casco Bay, sheltered by the long line of outlying islands, smile in the sunshine, ajijiarently as se- A Farm Scene in East Deering. cure from the ocean's turbulence as an inland lake. Off the Point lies Mackay's Island; just beyond are the Two Brothers; and still farther out, clapboard Island, now unhappily denuded of its forest growth, lying low on the surface of the water, like a dismasted wreck. Turniii"' down a loail on the right we enter a projection of tlie coast, makiuii out into the li:iy, on the shore of which diaries W. Goddard, Esq., Postmaster of Portland, has an elegant summer residence, .lust across a little cove, on a narrow )ioint of land, is Thondiurst Farm, the summer resitlence of (ieneral John M. Brown. This is a stock-farm, witli s])aciou8 barns and out-l)uil VKIMTY. side laid out in building lots, and the outer side kept ojien to afford a view of tlic cove, and the city beyond, the whole shore would ultinnUi'ly be lined willi fine residences. The cove now has a C()n>idei';ible coniinerce, several hnnibed vessels entering it during the year, through the drawer in Tukey's bridge. Were the water retained by a dam, the cove would become the scene of aquatic sports. It i.s evident at a glance that its shores offer great opportunities for magnificent inijirovemeiits, while the neighboring heights, commanding fine views, afford sites for elegant and imposing residences. Time, and a denser popnlatinn, will ]iroduce great changes hero, convert- ing the solitary shore and un- fragrant flats into a scene of beauty. After cross- ing the bridge we observe the road on the left w h i c h r u n s ])ast the man- sion of the late James Deeiing, Esq. Siliiateires and tlie dome of City Hall, — is one of great Ijcaiity. This road has many attractions as a quiet clrive amid rural scenes, with the city always in full view. One may ilrive on, ]iast Graves's Hill, from the toji of which a more extended ))ros|)ect ]iresents itself to the eye, and return to Portland over Tukey's Bridge. Continuing on our way througli Woodford's Corner, we ]>ass the sta- tion of the Maine Central Railroad, where ])assengers may leave the train and enter tlie city hy the liorse-cars, thus saving the long distance down town from the station in the city. Many aLso jjrefer to take the trains going eastward here, coming out on the horse-cars from the city. Following the track of the horse-railroad we turn into Pleasant street, near llie Maine Central station. This is a hand- some avenue, lialf a nule in length, lined with gardens and a number — of fine residen- tntrnnce to Evergreen Cemetery. CCS, At US neatl, a little to the left, is the Prcsumpscot Trotting Park. Here is an excel- lent hall'-inile track, with extensive grounds, enclosed hy a high fence. All the aii]>ointinents of the Park, as a race-track, are first-class. There are covered scats for spectators, with a restaurant at hand, and extensive ac- commodations for horses. Trolling matches take )>lace licre in the season, di-awing large crowds of spectators from the city. The Maine State Ag- ri<-ullural Fair was also held here for a term of three years from IST.'), and there are within llie grounds every accommod.-ition for watering and .shel- tering stock, and ;:lso a l.;vge Iwo-^lnry huilding foi- ihe display of agri- rOHTLAXD A.XJ) VICINITY. l-2:j cultural implements. At the lie:iil !i of tlio inorp recent jnircliases is still iiniiiij)rovo(l. Lots of about tiftceu hy fifteen feet in the older ]iortion of the ground are sold to citizens at twenty dollars each, while similar lots in the new irround are held at fiftv dollars. The cenieterv is iti charge A View In Evergreen Cemetery. of a commission of three trustees, with a resident suiierintendent. The lat- ter oflicc has for some time been filled by Mr. Patrick Duffey, to whoU),000 |ier year, ujion an average. The entrance is tliroiich an .•ivcinic bordered with shade trees and arbor vit:p hedges. On the right, as you enter the grounds, is the large receiving-tomb, a turf-covered mound, with granite front. In the same dircclion, farther on, is the little Westbrook Cemetery, — the bound.ary marked only by vine-covered iron arches. Just beyond this enclosure, near the boundary-line of the cemetery, is the most costly and elegant monument in the grounds, tiiat of the late Samuel Rumery; it is of Ital- ian marble, and is designed with great artistic taste and executed with much skill. Not far from this point, in a westerly direction, is the monu- ment of the historian of Portland, the late Ilnii. William Willis; .and still POllTLAXD AM) VJCjyiU Y. 125 ■?,yoC^w\V !„\S^>S. Views in Evergreen Cemetery. V2G POUTLAND AXD VICIXITY. ', farther on in the same general direction, down the slope, lies our late la- niented Senator, the Hon. William Pit I Fessenilen. Tlie ra]>i(l descent of the land, at a point a little beyond tliis, affords opportunity for a line of tombs with massive granite fronts, the tops of which, on a level with the ii]jper walks, are grass-covered plots. Below the tombs, some distance down the slope, are the ponds, bor- dered with seats, sjianned with rustic bridges, the shore adorned with rustic arches and arbors. On the surface of the ponds float swans and ducks, the feeding of which is a delight to children. On the left of the entrance is Evergreen Circle, a ring of lots neatly laid out, with a circular enclosure in the center. The prevailing style of enclosure is simply a granite base, with turf-covered mound. There are many elegant monuments in the grounds, and corner-lots are devoted to flowers and shrubbery. Some of the walks wander beneath dark shadows of evergreens into secluded spots, where the thoughtful mind may muse on the transitory nature of earthly life; and others lie out in the broad sunshine, where may be seen the distant mountains pointing like faith to the skies. One may wander long through these by-paths, attracted by the decor.itions and the flowers which affection has lavished on the dead, as well as by the shrubbery, and the noble old trees lifting their heads high up into the blue air, and affording homes to the song-birds which build among their branches — a life soaring above death. The beauty of these grounds, where the harmonies of art are blend- ed with the wildness of nature, sheds the radiance of a heavenly light u]K)n the gloom of death. Thousands come here — particularly on Sun- days — for a quiet walk among the blended beauties of nature and art, where all the associations are conducive to meditative thought. In addition to Evergreen Cemetery Portland has four other burying- grounds. Of Eastern Cemetery, the oldest of all, we have already given some account. Western Cemetery, lying on the slope of Bramhall's Hill, within the limits of the city, comprises about fifteen acres, and was laid out in 1829. One of the most conspicuous monuments here is that to Chief Justice Prentiss IMcllen, erected in 1850 by the Bar of the State. In 1858 sixty acres were purchased in Cape Elizabeth, near Vaughan's Bridge, about a mile and a half from the center of the city, and laid out as "Forest City Cemetery." It affords cheaper accommodations for tlie dead than Evergreen Cemetery. "Mount Calvary Cemetery," comjirising six acres, in a secluded spot in Cape Elizabeth, about two miles from the center of the city, is the last rcsting-i)lace of the Catholics. It lias a neat cha|)el, and was consecrated by Bishop Bacon to the burial of persons be- longing to his communion. The village of Stevens' Plains, with its broad, level streets, and side- walks shaded with umbrageous maples and elms, has a cjuiet and rural PORTLAND AND VIVINITY. 127 128 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. beautv. Its cliief onKinieiit is tin' l'iii\cis;iliatches of forest diversify the lamlscape, which stretches away with undulating surf.icc, everywhere show- ing signs of fertility and cultivation. Tlie falls on the Presumi)scot add an interesting feature to the scene; and in Windham a glini])se is caught of the old brown farm-house in which Governor John A. Andrew w.as born. Sebago I^akc is a tine sheet of w.iter, fourteen miles in K-iigth by PORTLASD AXD VlCiyiTY. 135 eight in width. The road skirts the shore, and at the station a steamer is in readiness to take passengers across the lake and through the tor- tuous windings of Songo River, — a charming sail, — into the lock, and up the Bay of Naples into Long Pond, where the steamer lands at the thriving village of Bridgton, whence a ride of eight miles takes one to the summit of Pleasant Mountain, a sightly elevation commanding wide views of the mountains and the sea. The liotel on the top of the mountain has excellent accommodations and is well kept. In the pleasure season one may go as far as Bridgton or Harrison, take dinner at one of the hotels and return to Portland the same day. This is one of the most charming short pleasure-routes in New England. Continuing on the rail from Sebago Lake we soon strike across to Saco River, and ride up the valley to Hiram, where the Great Falls of the Saco, seen from the cars, present a grand spectacle ; thence through Fryeburg, a beautiful village, famous for the battle with the Indians on the shores of Lovewell's Pond, and which attracts many summer visitors; on again, to North Conway, with its lovely intervales and magnificent views of the White Mountains ; through Upper Bartlett, a beautiful basin amid the hills; and so into the Notch, where the valley narrows to a gorfje, and the road climbs the mountain side far above the river, now dwindled to a brook. The nine miles from Bemis Station to the Crawford House in the Notch present a panorama of mountain scenery of unequalled grandeur. The v.alley of the Saco here narrows into a rounded trough, one side of which is formed by the long wall of Mount Willey, and the other by the corresponding wall of Mount Webster. Far up on the side of Mount Willey a shelf has been cut, and along this the road climbs at a grade of one hundred and sixteen feet to the mile. One is astonished to see how easily the ascent is overcome. But two buttresses block the way — Frankenstein Cliff and Mount Willard. Tliey seem to stand out defiantly, forbidding farther approach, but the train glides around them, through deep rock cuts, and entering the gateway of the Notch, reaches the level table-land where the waters divide. The ride along this narrow shelf is a novel experience in railway travel. Far above rises the steep, bare wall of Mount Willey, ever threat- ening to send down earth and rocks to block the way. Crossing the track of the grand slide of fearful memory, which overwhelmed the Willey fam- ily, you tliink of wliat might happen again. Here and there the steep mountain wall is gashed by the beds of tumbling brooks, which seem for a passing moment to open a glimpse into the heart of the mountain. Looking out on the other side of the cars they seem to overhang tiic deep, wooded valley, far down beneath the foliage of which the Saco speeds on- its course, and the old stage-road climbs upward to the gate- 136 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. way of tlic Notcli. You catch glimpses of the Willey House and of the liuts of the railway laI)orcrs far below. But the grand feature of this outward view is the stupendous wall of Alount Webster rising just across tlie narrow vallej-, and hemming it in with its apparently inaccessible heights. This long bare wall, so seamed and gashed, so dark and frown- ing, so huge in its bulk, so massive and immovable, is the tremendous feature of the scene. Its long sky-line points to nothing, and makes one wonder what lies beyond. It seems to cut you off from an ui)per and inaccessible world. The view of Frankenstein Cliff, especially in the autumn, when the mountain slopes are clothed in all the brilliant hues of the ripened foli- age, is not less grand, and has more of beauty than the stern wall of Mount Webster. This is only to be seen to advantage as you go down the valley, from the rear platform of the train. As the cars cross tlie iron bridge, which spans a fearful gorge, the cliff looms up above the ob- server with awful front. The eye falls first upon the forest growth about its base, which in the autumn glows with color like a bank of roses. Above this beautiful mass of color, and in strong contrast to it, rises the sheer precipice, a perpendicular wall of dark rock, furrowed and grim, with a crown of illuminated trees upon its head. But as the train moves on, .^Ild the cliff recedes, you see another wall, above and beyond the first, also fringed along its summit with brilliant hues. Thus the cliff grows in magnitude and grandeur as you recede from it, until at last a turn in the road shuts it from your view. But here comes in another grand fea- ture of this mountain scenery. The summit of Mount Washington is now- seen, covered with snow, a great white dome rising clear against the blue sky. Cries of wonder and delight greet its' appearance, and this grand spectacle is alternately hidden and revealed, until the train reaches Glen Station, where you bid adieu to its grandeur and settle down quietly for the homeward ride. The distance from Portland to the Crawford House is eighty-seven miles. From the Notch one may go on to Fabyan's, four miles, from which point there is a grand view of ]\Iount Washington. TO LAKE WINNEPES.M'KEE, BY THE PORTLAND AND ROCHESTER. This road is another favorite enterprise of the business men of Port- land. It o])ens a new .'ind direct route to New York, by way of Roches- ter, N. II., thence to Nashua, N. II., where it connects with the line to Worcester, Mass., and thence to New York, — thus saving many miles of travel between Portland anlh, and good for a return passage until November 1st. CONTENTS. Page CASCO BAY 3 PORTLAND: A Glance AT ITS History 8 TOPOGRAPHY 21 DISTINGUISHED PORTLANDERS.. 25 WALKS ABOUT TOWN: From Market Square to the East- ern Promenade 38 From Market Square to the West- ern Promenade 54 From JIarket Square to India and Commercial Streets 72 THE ISLANDS: Cushing's Island 88 Peaks' Island 94 Long Island 100 Little Chebeague 101 Harpswell 101 Page DRIVES IN THE VICINITY: To Prout's Neck Iftt Along Falmouth Foreside 113 To Evergreen Cemetery and Pride's Bridge 116 RAILROAD EXCURSIONS: To Old Orchard Beach, by the Bos- ton AND Maine 131 Along the Seashore, by the East- ern Railroad 134 To Lake Sebago and the Crawford Notch, by the Portland and Og- densburg 134 To Lake Winnepesaukee, by the Portland and Rochester 136 To Mount Washington, by the Grand Trunk 137 To the Interior of the State, by the Maine Central 138 ILlHSTSATroNS. Page " And the grass literally grew upon the wharves " 15 Atlantic House Ill Bird-Shooting on Scarboro' Marshes 1011 Breakwater Light 87 Catholic Cathedral 49 Catholic Orphan Asylum 65 Gasco Bank 75 Canal Bank 77 Centennial Block opp. 25 Chestnut-Street Church 42 City Hall 45 Congress Street, from Market Sq. 55 Congress-Street M. E. Church 52 Congress Square 58 Corner Middle and Exchange Sts . opp. 24 Commercial Street 84 Custom House 83 Cushing's Island 89 One of the Beaches 90 A bit of the Shore 91 Ottawa House 91 One of the Walks 92 Page White Head 93 Deering's Bridge 117 Deering Mansion 117 Evergreen Cemetery, Entrance to 122 The Tombs 123 View in 124 The Ponds 125 Hon. Wm. Pitt Fessenden Monument. 125 Samuel Rumery's Monument 125 The Summer House 125 Evergreen Circle 125 Exchange St., from Middle to Fore 78 Falmouth Hotel 74 Farm-Scene in East Deering 113 Farm-Scene near Pride's Bridge.... 124 Farrington Block bet. 24 and 26 Female Orphan Asylum 69 First Baptist Church 45 First Church in Portland 17 First Hotel in Portland 10 First National Bank 70 First Parish Church 41 140 LTST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Pagb Forest City Minerai. Spring. bet. 24 and 25 Franklin Wharf and New Elevator 82 Heading of First Newspaper pub- lished IN Maine 13 High-Street Church 49 High St., from Congress Sq opp. 24 Home for Aged Women 65 King's Mark 12 KiRKWOOD House HI Lincoln Park 48 Longfellow House 56 Longfellow, Birthplace of 81 Market Square 3il Main lioAD to JLissachusetts '•• Maine Savings Bank T6 Maine General Hospital 65 Marine Hospital 113 Mechanics' Hall 57 Merchants' Bank '?7 Middle Street before 1866 16 Middle Street in Uiiins 19 Middle Street, from Cko.ss to Union 72 JIiddle St., from Plum to Exchange 76 Middle St., Looking Down . .bet. 24 and 25 Midwinter Scene HO MAYORS OF PORTLAND opp. 128 1832. Andrew L. Emerson Dem. 1832. Joiiatban Dow Whiij. 1833. Jobn Anderson Dem. 1834-40. Levi Cutler Whii/. 1841. James C. Cliurchill Whi;/. 1842. Jolin Anderson /'<')»• 1843-8. Elipbalet Crcely Win;/. 1849-50. J . B. t;alioon Whiy. 1851. Ncal Dow Whin. 1852. Albion K. Parris Dem. 18.53-4. J. B. Cahoon Whifj. 1855. Neal Dow Kepub. 1856. James T. McCobb Dem. 1857. William AVillis Hepuh. 18.58-9. Jedediali Jewett Rrp\tb. 18(iO. Josepli Howard Hem. 1861-2. William W. Thomas Hei.iih. 186:5-3. Jacob McLellan liipiib. 1866-7. Augustus E. Stevens. .. AV/jh!). 1868. Jacob McLellan liepiib. 1869. William L. Putnam Iletv. 1870-2. Benjamin Kinsslmry, jT.liepuli. 187.3-4. George P. Wostcott Jieptib. 1875. Roswell M. Ricbardson. . ./)tm. 1876. Francis Fcssondon Repnb. 1877-8. Moses M. Butler Frontispiece 1879. George Walker " 1880-1. William Sentcr " Natural History Building, .bet. 24 and 25 Obsehvatory 52 Ocean House lOS Old Okchard Beach 132 Payson Memorial Church.. 46 Peaks' Island, Jones's Landing 95 " Greenwood " W Page Trefethen's Landing 98 Evergreen Landing 98 The Outer Shore 99 Portland in 1632 8 Portland in 1876 20 Portland Light .' 107 Portland Savings Bank 80 Union Mutual Building 43 PORTRAITS: John A. Poor 17 Parson Smith 25 Ex-Clii.-f-Justice Ether Sheplcy 27 Judge George F. Shepley 27 Hon. William Pitt Fessenden 28 Hon. Israel Wasbburu, Jr 28 General Neal Dow 29 John Neal 29 Henry W. Longfellow 30 N. P. Willis 30 Rev. Dr. Edward I'ayson 31 Hon. William Willis 32 Hon. Jobn B. Brown 35 Hon. William W. Thomas 36 I'ost-Office 79 Presumpscot River, View on the 115 Presump.scot Park 121 Preble House 55 Prout's Neck 112 PRIVATE RESIDENCES: Residence of Dr. H. N. Small 59 " Judge George F. Shepley... 61 C.A.Brown 62 " Gen. Neal Dow 63 Albion Little 63 " Hon. Jobn B. Brown 67 " Hon. Israel Washburn, Jr.. . 68 T. C. Hersey 69 S.C.Andrews 69 A. and S. E. Spring 70 " Holman S. Melclier 70 " Ruggles S. Morse 71 Philip H. Brown 106 J. S. Palmer 118 J. S. Ricker 119 " Captain J. B. Coyle 120 Dr. S. H. Tewksbury 120 Ramsay's Nurseries 128 Scene at end of Custom-House Wharf 86 Seamen's Bethel 65 State Street 60 State Reform School 64 Steamer John Brooks, for Boston... 88 St. .Stkphkn's Church 49 Sunset from Western Promenade.... 66 SwlCDBNnoKGIAN Church 49 Two-Lights 108 United States Hotel 40 Univkrsalist Church, India Street. . 49 Westbrook Seminary 1'27 WiLLiSTON Church opp. 25 INDEX TO TEXT. Page Allan Steamers 82 Army and Navy Union 56 Artists 34 Atlantic and St. Lawrence Kailway IT •' House, Scarboro' Beach Ill Authors 31 Bishop's Mansion 47 Board of Trade 35,75 Bohemian, Wreck of 10" Boston and Maine Railroad 20. 131 Boulevard lit* Bramhall's Hill, Elevation of 22 " " View from 6H " " Why named 67 Breakwater H7 Business Men 35 Campei-s-out, Numher of 7 Casco Bay, Bird-stiooting in 6 " " I>(_'Sfril'ti('Il of 3 " " Disaster in St> " " Strange creatures found In 5 " Street Church 56 Cathohc Cathedral 47 Chestnut Street Church 43 City BuiUing 44 " Hotel 57 Clay Cove 80 Cleaves, George 25, 81 Commercial Street 18, 82 " Old house on 83 " " Scene on 84 Congress Square 57 Street M. E. Church 53 Cumberland and O.vford Canal 16 " Bar. Members of 26 " Mills, Land-slide near 13U Cushing's Island. 88 " " Previous names of 8!) ** " View from 91 Custom House 84 •• •' Duties collected in 1790 14 "1806 14 " 1876 84 Deering Mansion 118 Street 59 Woods 62,116 Diamond Cove 102 Distnnrcs to Popular Besorts 24 East Dicring 113 Eastern Cemetery 51 " Promenade, View from 54 Elevator. The new 83 English Navy, Supplying Masts for the 12 Evergreen Cemetery VXi " " Price of Lots in 124 " Landing 9S Exchange Street 75 Ealmouth Foreside 11'^ Hotel... 74 Female Orphan Asvhun 62 Pireofl866 19, 47, 73, HO First Baptist Church.. 46 " Indian War 10 " LiKhthonsc on Maine Coast 107 " Meeting-House, Erection of 9 " Newspaper, Publication of 14, 32 Page First Parish Church 42 " Settlers, Landing of 8 " Steamboat, Arrival of 15 ■' Tavern opened 10 " Theatre, Kreetion of 43 " Theatrical Performance 43 Forest City Cemetery 126 Fort Gorges 88 " Loyal, Erection of 10 " Preble 87 " Scammell 87 Free Street .. 73 Baptist Church 57 Grand Army. . 56 Trunk Railway 81,137 Greele, Widow Alice 50 Halifa.x Steamers 82 Harpswell 101 DeadShipof 103 Higgins' Beach 110 High Street Church 58 Home for Aged Women 70 Huckster's Kow 57 IndiaStreet 80 International Steamers 85 Islands, The 86 " belonging to City 21 " Names of 4 " Number of 5 " Population of 21 Journalists 32 Kavanagh School 50 Kirkwood House, Scarboro' Beach 110 Knightville 105 Lincoln Park 46 Little rheli..ague 101 Lon- Island 100 Longfellow, Henry W 29,51,56,62 Birthplace of 81 " House 54 Maine admitted into the Union 15 Central Itailroad 133 " f'liaritalili' .Mechanics' Association... 56 " Fir.st daily newspaper in 32 *' ** editor imprisoned in 32 •' General llos|.ital 64 " Historical Society 45 " Steamship Company 83 Market Square 38 '■ •■ Riotsin 40 Matthew I 'ol.li House 58 MeLellaii -Mansion 59 Meeting-Himse Mill 105 Mercantile Library Association 41 MiddleStreet 73 " " Old bridge over 11 Morrill's Comer 129 Mount Calvary Cemetery 126 " Washington 137 Mowatt. Captiu-c of 52 Mun.1oy's Hill, Elevation of 22 " ' " why named 52 Mussev'sRow 74 Natnral History Society 45 Na\'y. < )meers of 28 New Casco 10,115 142 INDEX TO TEXT. Page New Jerusalem Temple 58 Newspapers, Location of _ J^ Managers of ' -^i Non-intercourse Policy, and Embargo U North School 5U " Street, View from fH Observatory Ki Ocean House, Cape Elizabeth lUlt Olid Fellows' Hall ■*' Old Orchard Beach 131 '• ■• " Fern Park IK " '• " Ocean House IK " " " Old Orchard House IK " " " 26tli of June at VXi Orators and Statesmen 2K Park Street Church W Payson MeniorialChurch to Uev. Ur. Edward 31,46,79 Peaks' Island "-t " Disaster off !« " " Number of boardere on HS " " Previous names of !'*i " " Steaniboul Compiiny Sti *' " A'iew from 09 Pine Street Church «- Plymouth Church ^ Poets ,2» Pond Cove 108 Portland, Area of 8, 21 liurning of, by Mowatt 13 " Commerce in 1737 H I )rv 111 >ik Company IW " Fiist huTik incorporated in U " •■ brick house built in M " " '• st*>rc built in U " " preacher in 'J " Fraternity 57 Harbor 22 " " Ascenein 8i " Hciid, Tl;ittcrvon IIW ill tiLr Iti-lii'llion 1« " Lh^i cxci-iition in 52 " Liizht lUI' " Museum 43 " Number of streets in 23 " Oldest gravestone In 51 " " hall in 57 " " house in 79 Population in 1B75 » "1888 10 "1753 11 "1800,1810 14 " 1S7« 21 Postmasters of 7ii " Saco. and Portsmouth Hailroad 134 Page Portland, Statistics of 21 " SteaiM Packii Company 16,83 " Stoncwai-i- Company 119 " Styles in 17711 12 A'aluationof 8 " ami OjfdensburK Kallroad 20, \M '• Kochester Railroad 20,1*1 Post-Ollice 75 Preble House 38, 54 Presumpscot Trotting Park 122 I'riiic's liridtre 129 Private Residences, First Erection of 14 Prout's Neck 112 Public Library — 44 Hallways, Introduction of 16 Opening of 20 Ramsay's N urseries 129 Reformers " 29 Reservoir 64 Revenue Cutter Caleb Cushing 18 Revolution, The 12 Sea rboro' Reaches HO SeliajiTo Lake 134 Second Indian War 10 Meetinsr-House, Erection of 11 " Parish Church 79 Smith, Captiiin John 3,5 Rev. Thomas 25 ' House of 50 Tomb of 51 Spurwink River 109 St. Dominic's Church 62 " Luke's ('alhedral 61 ■' Paul's Church SO " Stephen's Church 00 State Reform School 68 " Street.. «0 " " Church 1)1 Stevens' Plains 123, 128 Storm on the Coast 107 'I'lioroluirsi Farm 114 Treaty with the Indians 5'-', 115 Two-i.ik'hts 108 Li nited States Hotel.. . 38 " Marino Hospittil 113 Universalist Church, Congress Square 58 " IndiaStreet 50 " " Stevens' Plains 128 AVestbrook Seminary 128 Western Cemetery 126 " Promenade, View from 67 White Head 98 Mountain Notch 135 Woodford's Corner 119 *- -* $u»inr«« 3ntfrf«t« of )loHI. -TUB- United States Hotel, One of the le:*ding- and best Hotels; in the city, situated on FEDERAL, ELM AND CONGRESS STREETS. -Se^t I^oiktion ill tlie City-' All traveling men should stop at this Hotel while in Portland. WILL. H. Mcdonald, Proprietor. PORTLAND Bbseryatory No Tourist or Stranger should leave the city without visiting the Observatory on Munjoy Hill. From the Cupola can be seen the entire City; the OCEAN, to the Horizon ; CASCO BAY, w^ith its beautiful islands ; the WHITE, CONWAY, SANDWICH, GREEN and OSSIPEE MOUNTAINS, wHth the in- tervening country. The views here are said to be unsurpassed for beauty and variety by any in the world. A powerful Telescope is mounted in the Cupola for the use of visitors. Congress Street cars pass every eight minutes. See Page 53. •ii- W. H. SCOTT, Galvanized Iron Gutter and Cornice Manufacturer. E^- All kinds of Sheet Iron and Tin Work made to order. A LSO, Cop])er Gutter, Steamboat, Locomotive and Stationary Boiler Stacks. Corrugated Iron Roofs put on in tlie best manner. All kinds of Plain Conductors always on hand. Tin Roofs repaired and painted. Persons troubled with ice and snow gathering on the eaves of buildings, can have them lined up water tight, at short notice and at reasonable prices by applying to me. TIN ROOFING A SPECIALTY. Agent for Austin's Patent Expanding Conductor. A full assortment constantly on hand. .e®^_Orders may be given by telephone. 29, 31 & 33 Union Street, PORTt,A]Sn>, urE. THOMAS C. COOPER, Slate and Metal Roofer. Leaky Roofs made tight. Tin Roofing a Specialty. Tin Roofs Repaired and Painted. Agent for the Original Elastic Cambridge Cement. Alt work warranted. 46 Cross Street, PORTLAND, ME. A good selection and tlie lowest prices in plain and printed Crockery, Etc., Wholes^ilu iiiid Rchiil. R. S. RAND, CONGRESS STREET, Near CiKEEN. Store open every evening. -* *- ^noint99 3iitfre»t6 of llorthtntt. Chas. H. O'Brion, Wholesale and lietail Dejit-r in Commercial Street, BKOIVIV'S WHARF. Coals for Domestic and Blacksmith Purposes constantly on hand. iriC5' 'iXT"; mid Satisfuution Guaraiitt^cil. LA TEST DESIGNS. POini.AXD, ME. CROCKETT & LONG, Ilc:ikrs in Crocktryt Carpeting^ lii^dding and Jlottae • /•'urtiisJitujf Goods. Sfcond-hand Furuiture liouffht und Sold. FURNITURE OF ALL KINDS REPAIRED. 41 MARKET ST., - PORTLAND, ME. Ks'i \ iir.isiiKit, lKi',11. Can be found at >■ 212 FEDERAL, CORNER TEMPLE STREET. Slu-.trv iiiul Si is^.■^:^ (;iiiHiiiij; in Uir Uc-t M.iiim:i. liu^ttr C'uiic;tviiiK, I'hiiti (.vrindiii^ iinil Honing, Puckct* Knife Kebliidinf; in llir Shortest Possible Timt-. JOHKSfiX'S RESTAURANT, 49 EXCHANGE ST., Portland, - Maine. STEPHEN JOHNSON, Proprietor. Meals at all hours'at Reaisonabk' Prices. Ruinford Falls Buckield R. R. starting from the Grand Trunk Rail- way at Mechanic Falls, runs via Buckfleld to Canton on the Androscoggin River. I'lisscnjjers for Dixfk-ld and the Rnngt-lv Lakes ure taken from Caiiton up the I'iciuresquu Valleys of the Androscoji- j'in and Swift Rivers to JIouj;liton*s,' in Hyron, thence to .Monselucma^funtic (nr the Great) Lake, at ihc Keniis Cot- tajjcs, of which Capt. Frederic Barker, of the steamboHt line, is prtiprietor. Thtrr urf tv.'o daily trains each way on this railroad, •\nd passcngtra ivill bt able^ by this routt, to Irarf Btmis in thf morning, and arrive in Boston at to P. M. thf Kiiini- day. This Hailnmd passes within two miles of the HEBRON MINERAL SPRINGS. IsKAKl. \\ AMIHI K.\, Jk., l'ri-..i>linl, l'.irtl:iii.l. S. I'. ANDIlliWS, \iccl'risident, I'ortlaiul. OTIS HAYI-'ORD, .Supcrin(<-ndiiil, Canlon. Pcriland. June 7, l»tMl. *>- -^ -* £Su6inr«e ^ntcrret* of lloHlnnii. Old Orchard Steamboat Co. To BIDDEFORD POOL, Me. From the Terminus of the Ori;hard Ileiich K. R. to Biddeforrt Pool, hi the New Side-Wheel Steamer "SAMEL E. SPRIE!" CONNECTIONS With all Trains from Boston and Portland. A Deligbtful Trip for Excursion Parties ! Ride on the Beach Road from Old Orchard iu OPKN CARS, and a Sail down the Saco River. See Portland papers and Time-Tables of the Uoston and Maine and Orchard Beach K. R. For Rates, etc., apply to JOHN S. MORRIS, Pres't, Old Orchard Steamboat Co., 22 Exchange Street, Portland, Me. Season of 1881. The People's Favorite ! TOtJEIST STEAMBOAT LINE ! The Staunch-g-f )mg Steamers MINNEHAHA and TOURIST, Will make trips from Portland to Peaks, Trefethens, and Diamond Island Landings, every Half-honr during the Season. Tourists wishing a dayof enjoyment should take the TourisK L.ine for the Islands. For Time-Tables see Portland papers. C. H. KNOULTON, Maiiager. H. H. NEVENS & CO., Manufacturers of i:i;$, SrHiti ®Hriar, Itr. Wholesale Dealers in TEAS, COFFEES AND FANCY GROCERIES, CICARS A .«*I»ECIAI.TV. Eagle Mills, 184 & 186 Fore Street, .• H.- wm?EHousE. i Portland, ME. Portland, Little CtiebeagueiHarpswell STEAMBOAT CO. The Most Delightful Trip in PCRTLAOD I) ARBOR. A Sail Among the Islands for Fifteen MUes, One Way. This Company will make from 6 to 8 (rips per da j during- the sea.'son of 18H1, in the Fast Steamers Henrietta and Sea Flower. See Portland papers and Time-Tables. JOHN S. MORRIS, Pres't, 22 EXCHANGE STREET, PORTLAND. -from:- PortlandtoNewYork I>oii*t Fail lo go by Ifao Maine Steamsiiip Co.'s Semi-Weekly Line, From Fraiihlin AVhnrf, Porllaud, Anil Pier 38, Eaut Rirer, IVew Vork. Leaving Portland and New York every Monday and Thursday. Durintr the Summer months the steamers will stop at Vineyard Haven on the passage to and from New York. Jgg^^FARE, Including- State-Boom, $5.00. meaU Extra. Pas.scn{5crs visiting New York will find this a plea.s- anl trip, avoiding the necessary transfer of baggage frnni one conveyance to another. HENBY FOX, Gen'l Agent, Portland. .1. F. AMES, Agent, Pier :k, East River, New York. Tickets and State-Rooms can be obtained at 22 Ex- change Street, Portland. Note. — From Dec. 1st to May 1st, no passengers will be taken by this line. SHAW, GODING & CO., iriaDufaclui-rra of 160 MIDDLE STREET, .,;=3 THE WHITNEY GAITER! I»iil«-nlra illiirc-li 15, ISSl. This lUiot is fur Superior to any Other style Uoiit in the iniirket. Vou can see the advanta^Pf' over other style's at a jflanee. ManufHctured to »>nU'r. hy B.F, WHITNEY* CO, Wlicilcsiilcaiicl Kelail l>.:il.i- ni S©©1^® T^N-D Shoes, "-^■^ ■■■■••■ ■,■•■■■■ --■ 222 Middle Street, Portland, Me. I I M'KK I'AI-.MlU III MnlKL.) J.B.FICKETT&CO., Dealers in WhiteLead?ZingPaints, PAINTERS' AND COACH COLORS, Linseed, Sperm and Lubricating Oils. MASURY'S PURE PREPARED PAINTS. Nos. 1851187 Fore Street, PO"RTLA!7D. l. II. I'U Ki:i r. i;. 11. \\ A ri.:Kii(HSK OCEmM MOilJSE CAPE ELIZABETH, Maine, Seven Miles from Portland. This Favorite Summer Resort will be reopened June 9, 1881. lUiit Jnach at liaiui, with the best facilities New loathing -lioiises have been built and It* locaticm fnr tlic purpose could not be .surpas>c(i. There i^ an «■ for hathinp In he found nn our coast, while the sea view is unusually tii: placed in a more convenient locality. In connection with the house is a wellappointed Livery, with :i lirst-class lot of horses and carriajjes for the use of the (jjuests. The drainage is excellent. The water is furnished from a boiling ^Pfingi and is pronounced bv physicians to be the purest and liest. Good boats kept for |>Ieasure-sailiiig and fishing^. The fishing grounds arc well i.uppliets and Steamboat I.andint;^. with carriages, by notifyiui^ the proprietor a day or t\vo in advance of arrival. CArriaf;eii run the Ocean llouse and Portland dailv, at Vnw fares. between -. ._ ^ _ .. . Parties wi^hinj; to eiif^aKe room*; at thisliotel the loiniiin sea I by apidyinp to T. WOLCOTT, Proprietor, Box 2004. Portland, Maine. $u«tnroo 3ntfrf«t6 of yoHlnnb. Chase,, Knight & Co., Manufacturers and Jobbers of lOO'TS AND SHOl Nos, 52 aDd 54 UNION STREET, T. H. CHASE. COLUMBUS KNIGHT. PORTLMD/^ME, C. B. GARDNER, PRESIDENT AND GENERAL MANAGER. F. J. ROLLINS, SECRETARY AND TREASURER. National Bell Telephone Comp'y OF THE STATE OF MAINE, 22 1-2 Exchange Street, Portland, Me. ThisOonipiiiiy having: establisheil TELEPHONE EXCHANGES in the principal cities and towns in the State of Maine, is also prepared to sup- ply instruments, wire, and all the re- quisite appurtenances for private lines, speaking-tube purposes and railroaduse. Private linos lor business or social purposes are ra[>idly increasing in this State, and will be thoroughly built, kept in flrst-class working order, and leased by this Company for an annual rental. Special rates will be made with manu- lacturing companies and corporations. The several Exchanges will, in time, be connected with each other, and all of them eventually with Boston. Any information relating to this busi- ness can readily be obtained by personal or written application to this office. C. B. GARDNER, General Manager. "^l^and scape ^ard^nQV^^^ A.NU UKAI.KK L.N ALL KINIIS (IF GREENHOUSE AND BEDDING-OUT PLANTS, TREES, SHRUBS AND FLOWERING PLANTS. Formerly Superintendent Evergreen Cemetery. fov ^^^G\t0Mineraf^^^. H a ^POBTLilND, Ml.^ ijivly lU'cidpiital. ing free iborhood Thi' rliscovc'l'y (if the woiuicrful niccliiMiml inialitics of Ilic watei-s iif lliis Spring "us juirclv iiccirtpiit III INSO the wife i)f the priiprietdi-. Mns. N. H. Noiii.K. nfHieled with ib^pepsiii. iliaiik l^rein the biibhli spiiiiK fill- several ihiys with the most bem-thMal etl'eets. After years of siiireriii)! she is mow entirely fi from that ilreadeii eoiiiplaiiit, thanks to this valuable mineral water. Many others in the neitfhborho have sinee trii'd the water, anil ill every ease a eure has been etleeted. Prof. F. L. BARTLETT, State Assayer, made a careful analysis of water from this spring, and iu his report speaks as follows : " This water contains all the valuable constituents of the famous Saratoga Springs, without any of the objectionable ones, such as the large excess of salt, etc." This water is reeonimended a.-* ft sure enre for dyspepsia and Its attendant disordei's. It inviiromles the system, eairies oir the humors of the lilood. ttiviiiK a healthy tone to the diKestlve orKans. eauses tlie seere- tioiis to pirform their funetions retfularly. frees the kidney.s from all iiilliimmalion.Hiiil infuses new life into the dull and ilespondent. It is a irreat appetizer, anil its strenirtheniiiK inlluenee is felt in all parts of the .system. This water will be delivered in an.\ pari ni the city and at the depots, at the following prieos; Barrels off 40 Gallons, Halff-Barrels off 20 Gallons, $7.00. 4.00. All iillotviiiK'f' ol' 7^1. ."Vlt lor Itiii-rflt*. iiiiil "Sl.'i^ lor lliilf-KtirrriM Mill Im' iiiiiilr t«lirn rr- liiriK'd ill ifooil or«l4-r. lOiirh ltiiri-4-l lifiM I'or ii ii-iKlr-iiiiii-lt a ml of Ihr Mpriiiic lloii«i«'. y«i|Ii Ihr wor«N. *' FOKlvM'l I'lTl' .T|i:\i:iC %l' Ml*KI.><;. <\ \. I\ol»l<-. Attrnr.*' |ii-iiil!<- -* Thos. LaugMin&Son, :^^^^^,^^^iShip Chandlery Hardware, KAI.VAIVIXED OOOD!« aum Mav to September; for some, from June to August. Those who perspire very freely will generally find the Spring and Autumn months to suit them best, especially if they lake a course of batns, which is very urgently recommended. Some require two ccmrses a year, one in Mhv, another in August. THIS SPRING WATER it* recouimendeil for the alleviRtion and cure of Bright's Ui^■ease, Kidney Complaint, Retenliiin nf the I'rine, Gravel, Diseitse of the I'rinary Orj^ans, Gout, Droj)Sy, Liver Ctunplaint, Jaundice, Heart- burn, I.ns> >>( Appetite, Incipient Indigestion, (ieneral Debility, Dyspepsia,' Bad Breath, Scrofula, Salt Rhenm. Sterility, Loss of Vital Energy. Female AN'eaknfss, (.'"ii^tiiiiiliMii, Biliousness, Rheumatism, etc., etc. ANALYSIS Boston, Oct. 6, 1876. A. M. SYLVESTER, • #li«#lt ■ OIO> Dear Sir: I have made a chemical analysis of the Spring Water recei\-ed from you One United States gallon (iji cubic inches) contains grains; Chloride of Sodium, 1.056 grains Ui-Carbonate of Magnesia, .^;33 grains* '' .yS4 grains. Total, ().iX)i grains. It is remarkably free from organic matter, as there is no perceptible quantity present. The gases present are principallv carbonic acid, with a little sulpliuretetl hydrogen. This is, therefore, aa Alkaline Chalybeate U'ater of un- usual purity, and one that retains the iron in clear solution under ordinary exposure. Temperature. 45-' Fah. Uesperttullv, S. DWA HAVES, State Assaver ttml C/temis/, Afuss. LIST OF PRICES. ith the following results: — Sulphate of Potash, .S40 grains; Sulphate of^ Li of Soda, i.a?! grains; Bi-Carbonate of Lime, 1.651 grains Bi-Carbonate Carbonate of Iron, i 539 grains; Alumina, trace: Lime, -SiS 151 grains; Silicic Acid in Solution, WATER. *er Bbl. at Spring $3-5o Per Half Bbl. at Spring 3.00 ing, for five gals 15 PRICE OF BARRELS AND HALF BARRELS. Barrels $2.00 Half Barrels 1.50 fugs and demij«>lins extrrt. Per Gallon at Spring, _ Per Gallon at Spring, five or less than five gals. ... Agents will add cost of transp()rtation, trucking, etc, This spring is for sale by A. M. SYIiVKSTKH, Proprietor, S< AKBOKO', MAINE, To -.'•horn till Orilifs lUiJ Inquiries should /•- uliiressed. Pikiio-forte>^.^Ofofaiis TO SELL AND RENT, ^^WM. P. HASTINGS\*-«- 144 1-2 Kxcliiiii«c street, - I»i.i-tlaii.\K Ckst. i >\vin>f to it.s low price. It.s eireiila- tion is laryre. which makes it an excellent aihiTtishiK nHMlinni. A well fitted up JOB OFFICE is connected with the Paper. JAMES BRADLEY, •*ljlll'01^ilili^* COMMISSION MERCHANT, Distiller and Brewers' Agent, No.91 Commercial Street. PORTLAND, Me. ^u»info« Jntrrrste of |)ortlanti. MUJVD ^ 1 M A A FIRST-CLASS LITERARY WEEKLY. Filled with Original Stories and Sketches, by the best writers; Poems, Essuys; Sketches of Travel and Adven. ture; Reviews of and Extracts from New Books; Editorial Comments on Passing Events ; Letters from Tourists; Foreign and Domestic News; State and City Items; Fun and Sentiment ; Illustrated Rebuses ; Puzzles, Enigmas, Etc. : Markets and Commercial Review; Marine List. TERMS: $2.50 per year. $2.00 if paid strictly in advance. CLUBBING WITH OTHER PERIODICALS. The Publishers of the Transcript have made arrangements with tlie leading >raga7.ines and other Periodi- cals, by which they can furnish most of the reading matter desired, at rates much below those charged when not taken in clubs with the Transcript. All the leading English publications supplied. Send for specimen copy of Portland Transcript. For full particulars, address, ELWELL, PICKARD & CO., PORTLAND, ME. ^TO a: ,s«i- The Transcript has a limited space devoted to advertisements, and its great circulation makes it the best possible medium for business men desiring to attract attention. Its circulation surpasses that of any other paper, daily or weekly, in the city, in the county', and in the State. For further information and for terms, apply to the publishers, ELWELL, PICKARD & CO,, 44 EXCHANGE STREET, PORTLAND, ME. -* 10 ^uoiiiroe rintrrroto of Vorttniiti. -* Agricultural Warehouse & Seed Store, NO. 46 UNION STREET, PORTLAND, ME. General Agents tor Most- ley 's Cabinet Cieamcry,Stoil- dard Churn, More's Pyra- midal Strainer, Ash ton's Fac- tory-Filled Sail, Kinerson's Butter Coloring, Fyler Chum, Perfect iMilk Tail, Thomas' Smoothing Hari- ihrir r \J r\ I un. ^MJ , CHICAGO DRE$!^ED BEEF! This Beet now comes through from Chiciigo in four d:iys, in the Improved "CHASE" cars, built especially f'lr the transportation of Beef. It arrives thoroughly cool and fresh, while at the same time it has sullicient age for im- mediate consumption. A full supply is alw.iy^ kept, at Uic REFRIGERATOR, AT THE Head of Franklin Wharf, And orders by Mail, Telegraph or Tele- phone will receive prompt attention. B^Y VIEW H0U3E, Peaks Island, PORTLAND HARBOR, MAINE. This p<)[Uilar Summer IIoluI is three miles from the city of Portland, on one of the most beautiful of the three lui'ndred and sixty-five Islands in Casco Bay. It offers NUperioi* facililieH for Boating, Bathing and Deep Sea Fishing. Rooms large, both in suites and single. Com- munication witli the city every half-hour durmg the day, making it one of the most attractive and dt-sirabie Sum- mer Resorts on the coast of Maine. JOHN T. STERLING & SON, Prop's. All Letters of Inquiry promptly answered- MOKTKEll*I©IISE, PEAKS ISLAND. One of the prettiest situations on tlie Island. Good Kooins iinrt Board at reasonable rates. William S. Trefethen, Prop. Al-i.. AN'lH.leMilc IXaUi in HARPSWELL HOUSE, One of the best Summer Hotels at MARPSWELi. A. J. MERRI3IAN, Prop'r. Boats connect with all Trains and Steam- ship Lines coming into Portland direct to the Harpswell House. riNJi iQ)^T!]N)©:^FCSH()Nj(l. Terms Reasonable, with good Rooms and the best of Fare. MERRICONEAG HOUSE, gouth Harp^ViTcll, ?gainc. The Finest Hotel at South Harpswell. The House will reopen for the reception of guests June 15. iSSi. It contains forty-four convenient, airy and well furnished rooms, the windows of each affording a view in beauty and grandeur unexcelled by any on the coast. The rooms are large and airy, and arranged in suites for the a'ccommoda- tion of famifies. Regular mails once a day. The tables will be supplied with the best the market affords. F'iue Drives nuil Wnlks, Batliius;, Pinhiujs, Boaliug, OuHiiiug, Etc. Harpswell lies pleasantly situated in Casco Bay, about fifteen miles from Portland. It has daily commimication with that city by the Steamer '• Henrietta," as well as with Brunswick by stage. For price of board, terms, etc., inquire of A. E. PINKHAM, Proprietor. CUSTOM HOUSE WHARF, Portland, - - Maine. Junes J^JoHse^ JONES LANDING, -Mc PEAKS ISLAND, ME.:(E<- FiNE Rooms to Let. Best Location on THE Island. Transient Company will find the best ac- oonimodations. SARAH INNES. CENTRAL COTTAGE, PEAKS ISLAND, PORTLAND HARBOR. This Cottage is pleasantly situated on the front of the Island, in full view of the city of Portland and its mag- niticent Harbor. Good facilities for Boating;. Battling and Fisliing. Simeon Skillings, Prop. CHAS. P. BABCOCK, DIES FOR iniNG AND RAISING. Springs of all kinds, Models of Metal or Hard Kubher, Light Machinery and Tools of every description, all kinds f)f Liijht Jobhinii requiring: Firsl-Class Mechanii-al .Skill. 12(> KXCHANGE ST., PORTLAND, MK. — * 12 6u6inre« ^ntcrf^te of llortUnb. A. BLOCKLINGER, Maiuitiu-turer nf Fine Hair Jewelry, Human Hair Goods, !i'i7 CoiigCfH'* Mirret, Porllnnil, .Me., -d store abuve Casro St. 4t«~Ilair of Dfceascil Kclatives :ind friends arrang^c-d artis- tically in any design, in Frames, iMohes, Lockets, Pins, etc., also, Inscriptions, Monoy^rams or Emblems in liair tastefully arranged in preserved Funeral W'reatlis, at rea. sonable jiriccs. Constantlv on hand or made to order, HUMAN HAIR SWITCHES, Pufts, Curls, Frizzes, Waves, Toi) Pieces for Old Ladies, and all the latest Fashionable Novelties in Human Hair (Jontis at vcr\' honest prices. Combings made into Switches or Putls and warranted to give satisfaction. G. D. ROBINSON, Varieties ot Hciil'-rM in nil kinds ol Marble and Granite Work. DesiRns and Rstiniatc^^ l-'nriiishcd and Kxecuted iit <'heap Kates and In the Shortest I*os.sildc Tlnw. DEERING'S BRIDGE, DEERING. ME., Near foot of Green Street. Emery & Furbish, HEAD Union wharf. J. A. Kmehy. H. F. FfitmsH. C' usinessfiollegb inBtitiition of H H thf kind Thiirough in- ■ etru<'tl<>n in (OoMeeDMi jmc'lLaw LORING & GROSSMAN, SLATE AND TIN ROOFERS, No. 27 UNION STREET. PQRTLAI^ID. \^'nr. day or week. Kirsl-eliLKs lioats and Good l.iindinK', No. 4 Portland PUt, Portland, Mo. Dr. C. J. CHENEY, Surgeon Dentist. 2r>K Middle St .,0\erH. H. liays, Portland, Me. j»^ All opti jlions in Dentistry pfrrornu-d at pricfs to suit tlu liiMcs. and warranted tirst-rlass. Nitrous Oxide tias and Ether Administered to extract teclli. We have the most improved apparatus for the manufac- tiire 1(1 iTi)l;ilatl..n r.f \*itr"ii^ Ovi.lr f. S. D. MERRILL & CO.. Plumbers and JTin Kcofcr.\ Ami llnllirs In nil kiiKls ol i>l>iitil>iiiK .^InlrrinU, 31 TEMPLE STREET. I ni-iwicM Conif Mw .ill. I K.diial, PORTLAND. -* 13 ^tt«turee ilntcrreto of yortliinti. « SWAN BARRETT, ■J '--^3^ tH6 MIDDLE STREET, P0I|TLAP, Me, DEALERS IN jSforks, IBonbs, Government, State, (bounty. City, Town iiiKl Railroad SEGEKITIES And Bank Stocks. DOMINION CURRENCY AND OTHKJt Bought AND Sold, FRANCIS K SWAN. RUFUS H HINKLEY Woodbury Moulton, J. B. BROWN k SONS, lianftFFs, CORNER MIDDLE and EXCHANGE STREETS, PORTLAND, ME. State, Municipal, and Railroad Bonds Bought and Sold. Investments suitable for trust funds constantly on hand. Orders Executed at the Boston Stock Exchange for same rates of commis- sion as charged by boston Brokers. Theo. C Woooburv, Wm. H. Moulton (members boston stock exchange ) loanfiers^ ^wmr 218 Middle Street, Portland, ^e. DEALERS IN FOREIGN and DOMINION Foreign and Domestic EXCHANGE. S^S^S!^)-.-®!!^* Transfers of Money by Telegraph. Travelers I'urniyhcti with Letters of Credit and Bills of Exchange, available in all the prineipal cities of the United States and Kurope. 4< 14 ^ui\nt6« 3ntrrc6t9 of VortlnnJ*. -* G- J^. ^vVESTOZST &; CO., Wholesale Grocers, Flour and Produce Dealers, 43 FREE MT., PORTLAND, ME. C. A. WkSTON. E. I.. HlMllSSIIN. ROW BOATS. hint Models, Light W tights, and Stylish Build, for salf. Also, BALED HAV AND STRAW, at J. S. ROBERTS', No. 6 Union Street, Portland, Me. F. A. LEAVITT, M-tHiiJa'tiirrr of Tents, A\viiiii!j;s, Flasks, Yacht Sails, I'.\TKNT Hammocks, Canvas Covers, Etc., 49',i E.XCHANCJE STREET, PORTI.A.'VD. TKXT.S TO LET. MRS. S. A. ULMER, WEDDING (AKK, AND ICE CHEAM, Specialties 662 Congress St.. Portland. WM. HENNESSY & CO., M.inuLii lin, 1-^ ol .ill kiii.K '.r CUSTOM HARNESS & WOOL HORSE COLLARS, Dealers ill Hiding .Saddles and Horse Oiiltil.'. 113 CENTRE ST., bn. i-Vco i-ronsres-s Pts..PORTLANO. WILLIAM S. BANKS. GEO. E. SICILXjIISr, Wliolesale and Retail Dealer in PICTURES, FRAMES. ETC., •i-m Feilrrul Ml., PoiiIhiiiI. Kir. ALBERT GHASE, Manut'arturcr of c'l'-iiic ^actiacjC,-" .,„> Sl'cicjfuv, 30 PREBLE ST.. PORTLAND. J. HI. BOlsTID & CO., Plumbers and Tin Hoofers. PuMiiis. Watpr Closel.s. Until i'lll^. Wasli liowls. :in>l all kinds of Water Fi.\tures, for PiiVilk- or Private Houses, set up in the liest Manner. No. 204 KK1)KR.\I> STKKKT. MRS. JANE A. DAM, MANUFACTURER OF LADIES' HAIR WORK, I uil^, Hands, I'riziMK's and InvisiUle Seams. > - sliinllj' on liand and Made to Order. No. 2, Under U. S. Hotel. Portland. Me. CHARLES T. SHAW, 'rUnm^fhoiit Portland and Virinity. 47 Market St., Cor. Congress, Portland. arwactj? Junction Congress and Free Streets, PORTLAND, ME. Boarding at Reasonable Bates, AT 65 COMMERCIAL STREET, F. J. MULLER. ALSO FINE CIOAHS AND TOBACCO. FRED. BROMBY, D.iil.r ill :ill kin. I m SIMGIJ\'G and FJMCY 'BI'U'DS, Ca^es, Moiking Itird Food, Bird Seed, El,., MTORE,400 C'OIVtiREHH NT., Porllnud, mr. iJiili-is liv Mall or Kx|iri-ss I'lomplly Killed. J. r. SjUlTH, J Hair ("uttinsr. Wis:: Miikiusr and l.ia(lies' Hair Work. 271^ MIDDLE ST., PORTLAND. F. W. JJe-cLrbt>r'/i , DKAI.KI) IN FINE BOOTS AND SHOES. and ^romftly don, . .SHI Conirrpss Streel. Portland. .Me. UK w.v.n IV New t Second-Hand Furniture, C:iriutv, St.ivrs. Ci"(kiTv, tfla^v, 'I'in ami Wim.iU-m WiiTf. Cor. Market* Federal Sts., Portland, Me. Ciish i»Mi'l ti>r nil kinds sifoiid Imiid K"Mi.|- in ilii- iim * PUBLICATIONS OF J. A. & R. A. REID, Providence, R. I. LIBERAL DISCOUNT TO THE TRADE. T LLUSTRATED NEW BEDFORD, MARTHA'S VINEYARD & NANTUCKET. With Maps of the two Islands, andanew Street Directory and Map of Cottage City. By Re\-. F. Denison, A. M. Large octavo; 80 pagres. In cardbonrj cover, tinted paper. Price, 30 cents.- Tliis lioolc is a delig-htf ul and convenient companion for the vis- itor to these fanions resorts, and a ctiarming souvenir. T HE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. A Complete Guide to the White Mountains and other New Hamp- shire scenery. With a chiiiitcr on Montreal ami (Quebec. By W.C.Gage. IlUistrated. l~ino. 123 pages. Paper cover. I'licc, :.*."» rents. " This little book of 122 pages is a roinplctc guide-book to the White Mountains and the surrounding country, while the various routes of travel by which it is reached are fully described. Visitors to this romantic locality will find this book a \ery acceptable companion and guide. It can be obtained of the newsdealers for 25 CGX\ts."~Pnjtla)t(i Araus. A SHORT HISTORY OF RHODE ISLAND. By George Washington Greene, LL. D., Author of the Life of Major General Greene. 12nio. Fine cloth. .'Jt- Settlers, the e\ents of the Revolution, the Privateers of the War of lsl:i. Details of the ('(Hiinni-ce of the Port, and Sketches of its Disting-iiished Men. By Wilfukd H. MUNRO. Illustratrd. Octavo. About 3,">0 pages. Fine Cloth. Price, Sa.OO per coi)y. Kull Sheep, $4.50. Full -Morocco, $.5.50. A. &: R. A. REID'S RAILROAD TIME-TABLES And Handy Reference-Book for Rhode Island Cities and Towns. Monthly. Paper cover. 120 pages. Per year, delivered to subscribers, $1.. 'SO. Single copies, 1.5 cents. O. H. Biuor.s, Editor. Fourth year. .\ny one of these liooks will be sent post-paid on receipt of the price, by J. A. & R. A. REID, Publishers, 56 WEYBOSSET ST., PROVIDENCE, R. I. *- 16 iJoeton ^ueinroe ijouere. wmixm33ZB^'mm KtiTAliLISHED TWr.. George H. Morrill & Co, MANUFACT'URERS 1>K Printing and Lithographic INKS. ruiN< ii'A I. (ikkh I. : 30 Hawley St., Boston. M'orkH, Norwood, iHnnM. BOSTON Type Foundry. Oldest in New England. .lOHN K. ROGERS, AGENT. 104 Milk Street, BOSTO?f, MASS. GUNN, BLISS & CURTIS, 30 HAWLEY STHEKT, BOSTOISr, Mercantile, Book f Job PRINTERS. ALSO, COLORED AND VARNISHED LABELS and Show Cards a Specialty. C. W^. CALKINS, M. D., FORMERLY OF PLEASANT STREET, HAS REMOVED TO No. 1498 Washington Street, Corner, of East Canton Street, BOSTOISr. SPECIAL ATTENTION GIVEN TO Diseases of Women # Children. Patients from out of town can be provided with good accom- modations, if desired, while under treatment. AA\ Coniinnnications Strictly C Confidential. FROST & ADAMS, Importers and Dealers in WpM%' iiaJ^Fnials, OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. WINSOR & NEWTON'S CELEBRATED OIL COLORS, WATER COLORS, CANVAS, MILL BOARDS, ACADEMY BOARDS, BRUSHES, OILS, VARNISHES, ETC., constantly on hand as specialties. •Ifacroix'd tJEineral -If olord and -ipateriald FOR CHINA PAINTING. Tiles, Plaques and Vases, in various forms, and MANY other articles FOR DECORATING. F. S. FROST, H. A. LAWKENCE, F. J. POPE. (!^riifll for ('ninlogue.) CROCKER WATER FILTER PATENTED JUNE 29. I860. AN ABSOLUTE NECESSITY FOR HOUSEHOLD USE, IN THREE SIZES. ^ FOR STEAM BOILERS AND MANUFACTURING PURPOSES. INSSIZES.FURNISHINC FROM 1000 TO aOOOOCALS'WATER.PEBlHOUR. CROCKER FILTER COMPANYi No. I5PTREMONT STREET, FACTORY. No. 17* HIGH STREET. company's OFFICE. 35 MILK ST., BOSTON, MASS. or mmit^^' BOSTON, MitSS. *- J. H. Osgood & Co, 1^ ^^^c -S /^a 4 -* '^v^^'^J^'*-'^^^ ^^^ BEDFORD. MARTHAS VINEYARD and NANTUCKET.^ " "•*,''"«•" "f "»• '•'"<• l»lnii.l», a .V,w Sir, ,1 Hi, .-.l. i,v un.l Ma|. ,,1 ih,- Cuili",. lii v Hv H-v 1'. 1)i.;ms„n, a. .M 1.u,.b.. M.tavu: 8(1 ,,„k.--.s. Im ..i,v1 covct, yo Jrms. \ dT- i'. iVul " (■(Mii|«in...ii l„r the visitor In tlu-sc lumoiis rt-so.ts. and a flianniriir s ,uv • h f-i-iit (.11 iLC-.ipt .if piicc, hy .1. A. A: li. A. KEID, PmviiU-nce, It. I. A SHORT HISTORY OF RHODE ISLAND. By Geo. Washington Greene, > I.I.. II.. Aiilli.ir .il 111.- I,ii,-,,r \r:i.ii.i-i;.-iii-r.il Cir.'iif. I^'iiici. l''iii.'Cli>ili. :isi; imtri'S, I'll.-.-. Si.OO. .-^, nl .111 i.-..'i|il nl |.ii..-. I.v .l..\..\: li. .\ . Iii:i 1 1, ri(.i\ im:M i:. K.I. ALL TOUKISTS Visiting the WHITE MOUNTAINS should procure a Copy of the ^*" SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. "*<- St'C linttom (if tills |i;li!<_'. WORCESTER, MASS. W. LSHEPARD, - - Proprietor This House has been thoroughly repaired and renovated, and will be kept strk'tly 'jr}^ First-Class in Every Respect. T/ie Only First-Class Holel in the City. y-^K- \ FORT POINT HOUSE, STOCKTON, Maine. THE FINEST SUMMER HOTEL On the Coast of Maine. A Fine Orchestra in Attendance. -5- Forty Acres of Grounds. -?- Kor further particulars address, FORT POINT HOUSE, STOCKTON, Maine. -^^^- •^' ■ '/;-T';j.i/';;- v-',o.;;v^mm»Aji^k-v-TO.-vvi. "^F^^^^^^ rMi i-^'rfe^^^'^/^ ^^^^^-jy'jdW ,-y. J — t' /-A^j-g^v ^ra 1- >^'^j;l ft t 'n/ ^jSj^ziT^iir^^sra % ^4>.:^€ M M MMM'P'4^>€M'H_ t ^^m i I %*< ARMON, DEALERS IN Paper Hangings and School Booh, Wholesale and Retail. MANUFACTURERS OF BLANK BOOKS, For Bunks. Insurance Companies, Corporations, Etc. I Dealei\s \\ New and Second-Hand LAW BOOKS. Agency for Rogers' Celebrated Gronps. Under Falmoutli Hotel, Portland, Me. W4m*9«i*mMWW¥4i, S r ^^^^SsMi J^ i roK^c »Jgg@T<^ig=JL,q M ortMlOgcle nsburgR.R. ^^ The Popular Route ' ' Through the Notch, " to aii White Mountain Resorts. | THE SEOETEST IIM From Portland to all poinls In Xorrlicrn New Hampshire and Vermont. Daily Trains through, pRJf via St. .lohnslMirv, Vt.. to Montreal and I'aniidian points: also, via SwantoD, Vt., g^4 to Oifdensburit. N. Y., and Ilie West. Coimeelions in Portland w lili all lines to and from the East and South. GENERAL OFFICES AT PORTLAND, ME. J. HAMILTON, Supt. f:ir