Class 
 
 Book_^ 
 Copyright N"_ 
 
 <^ I 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 
 
STONE'S 
 
 ADVANCED SUPERLATIVE 
 
 TROUSER SYSTEM 
 
 BASED UPON 
 
 The Proportions of the human Form 
 
 By 
 
 CHAS. J. STONE 
 
 Chicago, 111. 
 
 Giving the Correct Proportions for Forms of All Si/.es, Illustrated with Diagrams, 
 
 Accompanied by Full Instructions for Drafting by Proportions 
 
 and by Actual Measurements the Various Styles of 
 
 Gentlemen's Trousers and Breeches 
 
 Published bv 
 
 THE CHAS. J. STONE COMPANY 
 
 Chicago 
 
^ 
 
 •-N 
 
 \ 
 
 ^"■? 
 
 ^ x'' 
 
 Copyright 1913 
 
 BY THE CHAS. J. STOiNE CO. 
 
 Chicago 
 
 //. ^^0 
 
 (g:i.A35S943 
 
Stone's .Id-i'aiiccd 
 Siipriiatii'c Tronscr System 
 
 INTRODUCTORY 
 
 Bl'.FORE going into the details of drafting I 
 will present the outline figure of the subject 
 that we are going to delineate and cut a cover- 
 ing for. Whether it be a coat, vest or a pair of trou- 
 sers of some kind that we are going to cut. it is neces- 
 sary for us first to know the shape, form and attitude 
 of our man that we are going to cut the garment for. 
 
 In plates I, II, III and I\', I present the outline fig- 
 ure of the man subdivided into sections from which 
 we get the proportions to work from. ( )n plate I is 
 shown the front view and on plate II the back view of 
 the figure. It shows the skeleton or bone structure 
 with the flesh developments. It will be noted that the 
 height is divided into eight parts, four parts for the 
 upper part of the body and four parts for the lower 
 part of the body. It will also be noted that the pelvis 
 bone extends down below the half section of the height 
 of the body. 
 
 Figure III represents a normal man with its flesh 
 de%'elopments seen from the side. To the left of the 
 figure we have placed an upright adjustable stand that 
 we raise or lower according to the height of the fig- 
 ure. From the top of this stand we have placed a 
 flag (as per shaded portion) back of the man's head. 
 The width of the flag is according to the length of the 
 man's head. The entire length of the figure from the 
 sole of his feet to the crown of his head is 
 here divided into eight jiarts. These divisions 
 we sub-divide into eight ])arts again giving us 
 64 units of the entire height. The first eighth is 
 taken off for the head as indicated by the flag. The 
 second eighth is from the top of neck to the depth of 
 scye, giving the depth of scye front and back. Re- 
 member that this division is of the height on the bare 
 body, so addition for underclothing and ease must be 
 made for the depth of scye. The next section is from 
 the bottom of scye to the natural waist. We now 
 have one-fourth of height from the top of the neck 
 to the natural waist length. From the natural waist to 
 the seat is another eighth of height, so from the top of 
 the neck to the seat is three-eighths of height. These 
 horizontal lines are all divided ofl:' from the height 
 and are absolutely correct, but as the line down the 
 center of the back on the figure is not on a vertical 
 (straight up and down line) addition to these sections 
 must be made so that the garment will come in to the 
 
 neck out over the shoulder blades in to the waist and 
 out over the hips. The fifth line strikes the middle of 
 the thigh. The sixth line comes at the knee. The 
 seventh line at the bottom of the calf and the eighth 
 line at the sole of the feet. 
 
 I next call your attention to Fig. I\", where we view 
 the figure from the back. The stand with the flag is 
 placed on the right side. The flags take the head part 
 off the figure. The second eighth from the neck to 
 the l)ottoni of the scye is eight units, from bottom of 
 scye to waist eight units or in all 16 units of height. 
 To this add ' j inch for waist length. This just look- 
 ing at these pictures is interesting, but here now, get 
 busy and do some figuring yourself. I am giving you 
 tlie start, so now you start by getting the waist length 
 for different heights, get busy and tax your brain a 
 little and you will soon catch on. Next note the sec- 
 tion from the waist to the seat.' eight units or one- 
 eighth of height, add this to the waist length and you 
 have the seat line. Now take a squint at the sleeve 
 length, frcjni the breast line to the seat line is one- 
 fourth of height, to this add one unit, sleeve length 
 seventeen units. The length of leg is one unit and a 
 half less than one-half of height, the rise of waist for 
 trousers is ij^ of height plus 1 unit or l-64th of iieight. 
 thus if we have the height of our client we can figure 
 out all the different proportionate lengths, and from 
 the breast, waist and seat measures we can figure out 
 all the different sections of widths, and when we know 
 what these different sections are for the normal man 
 we can easily figure the disproportionate proportions 
 for all the diff'erent figures, long or short, forward 
 and l)ackwar(] attitudes. The figures all stand on a 
 floor level or level on the floor. It's the position and 
 attitude over and under the normal that the figures as- 
 sume, or rather are forced into. Strong, healthy in- 
 terior organs give a man an erect position or attitude. 
 Weak organs force the man into a stooped position 
 or attitude that we have to note, but with the knowl- 
 edge of proportions and the proper divisions of heights 
 and widths for our foundation the various dispropor- 
 tions can easily be handled, for we can analyze the 
 measures taken and easily find the disproportions our 
 client is in. I will now call your attention to Dia- 
 grams \' and VI for a better understanding of the di- 
 vision of heights and widths for trouser cutting. 
 
PLATE I. 
 
 Stone's Advanced 
 Superlatk'c Troiiser Svste)n 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
 PLATE II. 
 
PLATE III. 
 
 Stone's Ad7'aiiccd 
 Siipcrlatiz'C Trouscr System 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
 PLATE IV. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Snl'crlatn'c Troitscr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE V. 
 
 The DnisidN (if Height F(ir Trousers. 
 
 As previousl}' stated the theory advanced hy our 
 niost noted sculptors, painters, artists and professors 
 of anthropology regarding the height of the human 
 body and its proper division, is that the entire height, 
 from the crown of the head to the end of the big toe, 
 contains eight faces or heads, and on this theory they 
 divide the human form into eight faces or heads. The 
 distance from the bottom of the heel to the end of the 
 toe is estimated to be 1-22 of the entire height. 'I'hey 
 also claim that the proper way to measure for height 
 is to have the subject in a lying-down jiosition with 
 feet stretched out, or if in a standing position it must 
 be on tip toe. This theory is undoubtedly correct if 
 we want to find the correct length of the face, but to 
 tailors this is of less importance. What we want is 
 the division of the parts of the body that we are re- 
 ,|uired to cover, and it matters not if the face of our 
 client is one-sixteenth of an inch longer or shorter, and 
 while the ilistance from the crown of the head to bot- 
 tom of heel does not contain eight times the length of 
 the face, vet I find in my practice that this distance 
 can be correctly divide.l into eight parts and each of 
 these iwrts subdivided into eighths, giving us si.xty- 
 four parts or units for height, and on this theory the 
 accompanying diagram of the human figure is divided : 
 
 From the crown of the head to the pelvis bone, line 
 F \', where the legs join the trunk of the body, is half 
 of the entire height. 
 
 From I-~ to J is 'j the distance from F to M. or '4 
 of entire height, and \' to X is ' s of entire height. 
 
 \' to e' is l-(if of entire height. This distance will 
 \ary according to flesh development, in a le.iii mm 
 it will be a little less and in a flesh v man more. The 
 in-seam will therefore be for a lean man not cpiite 
 1-64 less than i _. of height, and for a fleshy man as 
 much as 2-(i4 less than ' _. of height. For a cutter to 
 fully understand this \ariation, it is necessary for him 
 to understand the laws of form growth. 
 
 The rise of the waist is ' ,s and l-(i4 of height, and 
 to this may be added ' _. inch, or according to the fancy 
 of the wearer, b'or a lean man whatexer has been 
 gaine<l in leg length must be deducted from the rise 
 rmd in the fleshy man what has lieen lost in the length 
 of the leg must be added to the rise, according to fleshy 
 and muscular developments. 
 
 C to 1) is I J seat on dix'ision. and D to F is '-g seat. 
 
 .\ is halfway between C and F. Square u]i from A 
 to S : this line is the center of the thigh. 
 
 Now, if we locate the center of the foot or ankle, it 
 will be found tint point B is not a straight line with 
 .\ .S, therefore it '•• necessary to swing in the center 
 line ;it the foot. The reader will ask how much? This 
 deiiends on the size of the trouser legs. If they be 
 small, the center must be swamg in more, and if wide, 
 less. I'or the present style of trousers, IS'j to 19 
 knee and 16' _> to 17 bottom, I swing the center line 
 in at bottom 1-16 of the seat measure. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Supoiath'c Troiiscr System 
 
 PLATE V. 
 
12 
 
 Stonr's . Idz'a/iccd 
 Siipcihiti^'i' Iroiiscr Syslciii 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE VI. 
 
 The DnisidN uf Width Fur Trousers. 
 
 In drafting I use half of seat measure. This I 
 divide into eighths. 
 
 From A to ['> is four-eigiiths. whicli e(|uals 'j, and 
 from B to C is one-eighth. 
 
 B to 7 is Vs seat, which locates the beginning of the 
 riiunding of the lower portion of the trunk of the 
 hody. 
 
 The center of the thigh D is half-way between A 
 and C. .'^(luare up from D to E. 
 
 The center line at 1'" should be swung in l-ld of 
 seat, then divide the furepart equally on lioth .sides of 
 the center. 
 
 ( In ilrafting, the forepart is re\ ersed from what it 
 appears in this di.igram, which is leftdian<led, so as to 
 show the shape uf the stride and its dixisions. ) 
 
 The forepart is cut out and laid on backpart so that 
 the center lines meet. 1 to 5 is 4-S, the same as the 
 forepart. .^ tn (< is Is. and 6 to C is 1-12, making the 
 distance from 1'. to -t, '4 and 1-12 seat, which eijuals 
 3/j seat on division. 
 
 Periiendicnlar line \V. it will be noted, is on a |)lumb 
 
 line from the shoulder blade. The seat will extend 
 o\er this line, and the first impression that the reader 
 will get by looking at the diagram und(iubte<lly will be 
 that the seat line of the trousers should run with the 
 shape of the l)ody ; but on second thought he undoubt- 
 edly will understand that when the back is turned 
 around, it will come in a different position. 
 
 U to V is 1-16 waist and \' to Y is j ,, of the entire 
 height (.1 inches in all sizes may be used successfully.) 
 If the indentation ciiuld be successfully taken and ap- 
 plied. W to \" should then be 'j inch more than W to 
 X. 1 to 8 is 1'4 inch for make-up and seams. 
 
 'Idic width of the legs is e(]nally <livi(led on both 
 sides of the center line. The seat should measure 16 
 seat and 1 1 _. inch added for seams. The waist J 2 of 
 waist measure and 1 inch for seams, and if a V is 
 taken out add 1 ' _• inches for seams. 
 
 Note. — All these divisions of the form are net meas- 
 urement. .Additions for seams and ease must be add- 
 ed when drafting the patterns, as ex[)lained in my 
 system of drafting. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Siiperhitive Trouser System 
 
 13 
 
 PLATE VI. 
 
14 
 
 Stone's Adz'anccd 
 Sii/^crhitk'c Tronscr System 
 
 THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF 
 TROUSER CUTTING. 
 
 PLATES VII, VIII. AND IX 
 
 If we take the whole circiiiuference measure of the 
 seat it win, of course, (see Pl;ite \'Ii), lake 
 iu the two thighs, and if the twn let;s are set 
 ch.)se together on tlie trunk of the liody the 
 seat nieasui"e will gi\e the proper size for the 
 thighs. If we take one- fourth of the seat meas- 
 ure (half on division) it will reach as from C through 
 B to H. If we sweep down from C to L we have the 
 width of the forepart as from L to 11. If we sweep 
 from II to G the measure B to H will reach to (i. and 
 it will require another ' s seat from G to A. 
 
 The circumference around the two legs simply illus- 
 trates the two thiglis. If these two thighs are set on 
 the body, as per illustration in Plate VIII, it would 
 seem at tirst glance that the application of the seat 
 measure would be too large for the thighs, but such is 
 not the case, for although the seat measure is used to 
 get the size of the legs, yet it requires 1-12 of seat ex- 
 tra in the back stride, as from K to A, in order to give 
 the proper amount of goods .around the thighs. Une- 
 half of seat measure. 18 inches, and ' .; of IS, wdiich 
 is (j inches, added t(( IS, makes the thigh 24 inches; 
 this includes allowance for seams and ease. Ihe ac- 
 tual size of the thigh in a ntirmal figure is S,s nf the 
 seat measure, which. f(ir a Mi seat, will he 21' j inches; 
 for a 40 seat 2.^ inches, and a 40 seat 2S ^ j inches. 
 These proportions h(4d good only in ynung men and 
 athletes. The middle aged as well as old men who ilo 
 not get any exercise to strengthen the muscular de- 
 velopment of the thighs fall lielow this standard, and 
 it is here where the cutter will have to use an extra 
 thigh measure, and in drafting compromise ;ind use 
 the difference i)f the actual and proportionate thigh. 
 The small thigh and flat seated figure perhaps is the 
 hardest of all forms to cut trousers for- Plate IX 
 illustrates this form where the two legs are set apart on 
 the body, leaving a si)ace of from one to two inches 
 between the legs, as from 1 to 2. In this form the 
 thighs nuist be reduced on the inside so as to give a 
 curve on both the front and hack part, as from T to 
 S ; be sure to reduce the thigh on the inside with a 
 short, sharj) cur\e, if you want the inseam to hang 
 straight. Some cutters itnagine that liy cutting a 
 straight inseam for all sbajies the tronscr leg will hang 
 straight, but this is an illusion, and sooner or later the 
 cutter will discover th;it in this particular case the in 
 seam must ha\e a short curve just below the crotch in 
 order to get the trouser up and set smoothly in the 
 fork and hang straight in the legs. 
 
 PLATE VII. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
 15 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE X. 
 
 TO DRAFT THE FOREPART FROM PROPORTIONS. 
 
 These are the fundamental principles on which this 
 system is based, "the proportions of the human form," 
 and by first studying the anatomical divisions of the 
 form that we have to cut a covcrinij for. we will have 
 
 a better knowledge of the system employed in draft- 
 ing. The cutter will know the whys and wherefores 
 of all the ditierent di\-isions used in drafting. We 
 must first know the proportions before we can find 
 what the disproportions are. 
 
 Seat ,16 I Waist 31 
 
 Height, -^ feet 8 inches (68 inches). 
 
 TO DRAFT. 
 
 A to L is ig plus 1-64 of height. 
 
 L to C is jA height less Ij j units. 
 
 L to G is }i ofi seat. 
 
 M is halfway between G and C. 
 
 ( i tn 1 is I s of seal and 1 to I is fg of seat, making 
 
 the distance from Li to I is 4-8 of ^2 seat on 
 
 division. 
 \\j to j is yi seat on division. 
 S(|uare up and down lines 1, 2, 3 and I. 
 L to J is 5^ of seat, which is one-half of thigh measure, 
 
 and K is halfway between L and J. 
 Square up from K through Y and T. 
 As center line K is halfway between 2 and 3, it is 1-16 
 
 seat from K to 3, s(j bv swinging in center line 1-16 
 
 at Ivottom it will strike on line U 3. 
 Appl\- knee measure ' _> of knee each way from P, and 
 
 Ixittnm lueasure V4 inch les.s than '_> of Ijottom 
 
 measure each way from U. 
 
 Now if ' _. of the seat measure will cover '4 of the 
 thigh, ',i of this amount will be the correct quantity 
 to co\er the remaining '4 of thigh. So if in a M) 
 seat measure 18 inches will co\er the three sides of 
 thigh, li of 18. or 6 inches, is the correct amount of 
 front and back stride. Now. then, if we use '^ seat, 
 which is 2 '4 inches, for the front fork, we must add 
 the remainder for the back fork, as follows: J^ '"^nfl 
 1-12 seat, making the stride '4 and 1-12 seat, which is 
 e(|ual to y^ seat on division. 
 
 The single thigh measure averages one-half inch less 
 than five-eighths of the seat measure. Men with heavy 
 developed muscles will measure a trifle more, and 
 scantily developed forms with open tliighs will meas- 
 ure less than the normal figure. The following table 
 of thigh is five-eighths of the seat measure. If the 
 thigh is measured moderate close, not tight, the thigh 
 will measure 'i inch less than given on the following 
 table: 
 
 Seat 
 
 Seat 
 
 34 
 3? 
 36 
 ?:7 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 41 
 
 Thi,jli 
 
 2oy» 
 
 21/4 
 21% 
 
 23 m; 
 23 .)4 
 243/^ 
 25 
 255/^ 
 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 47 
 48 
 49 
 50 
 
 Tluqh 
 26 '4 
 26?^ 
 27>4 
 28/s 
 28^4 
 29% 
 30 
 30?^ 
 31M 
 
16 
 
 Stoiii-'s .Idraiiccd 
 Snpciiath'c Trouscr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XL 
 
 Ff)L'NnATIC)N DkAFT. 
 
 The acL-unipanying <lraft is t\ir a nurnial figure. 
 The (Ir.ift is made fnim ihe following measurements: 
 
 Outside seam -W/z Seat 39 
 
 Inseam 32 Knee 19 
 
 Waist 34 ' L'.utLoni l''."2 
 
 To DRAFT. 
 
 Square out and down from .\. 
 
 A to r. is outside length. 
 
 B to C is inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches al)o\ e half the distance from l'. to C. 
 
 C to L is \i seat; S(|uare lines L. C. D and P.. 
 
 C to E is ; J seat and K to F is > s seat. 
 
 G is halfway hetwecn (.' and F. 
 
 C to 1.^. \? to 1(> and 1(1 to 17 is 's ■'^eat, thus dividing 
 
 the forepart into eighths of the seat measure. 
 The center Inie <i being in the center of points Id and 
 
 17, the distance from C to 17 is 1-1() seat, therefore 
 
 the center hue should he moved in l-lo seat at hot- 
 
 toni as from point 40 to M. 
 Point 40 is opposite point ( 1. 
 E to I is i{, inch for dress and F to T and F to U is Y& 
 
 inch for dress. 
 N to () and N to P is \\ knee measure. 
 M to Q and M to R is '4 inch less than ,'4 of the 
 
 width of l)ottom. 
 1 to K is ' 2 waist ( 17 on halves). 
 C to 1 is .\s inch; lengthen outside at (J ' _\ the amount 
 
 that ff.irepart has heen swung in from 40 to M and 
 
 shape forepart as represented. 
 
 TIIF. liACKI'ART. 
 
 E.xtend lines from 1 1 to X and V to W. 
 
 H to X is .1 inches or ,i-(i4 of entire height of client. 
 
 S is halfway hetween lines E and L 
 
 Draw seat line from S through \'. 
 
 7 is halfway hetween X and W. 
 
 Ajiplv waist measure from J to K; place this at 7 and 
 mea.sure l)ack to 10, half of waist and 2' 4 inches 
 for seams and V( incli \' taken out as from S to 9. 
 
 Apply seat measure from S, line 1'^ to P, place this on 
 seat line 31, which point is tg seat up from S, and 
 measure out to 'S', half of seat measure and 1 J 2 
 inches for seams and ease. 
 
 1 to 2 is 1-16 seat. 
 
 F to Z is 1-12 seat. 
 
 P to 3 and O to 4 is J/j inch. 
 
 Q to 5 and R to 6 is ->4 inch. 
 
 PLATE XL 
 
Stoiii-'s .l(kwici-d 
 Siipcrlatiz'r Troiiscr System 
 
 17 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XII. 
 
 Normal trousers from the following measurements : 
 
 PLATE XII. 
 
 Rise 9y2 
 
 Leg 32 
 
 Waist 35 
 
 Seat 40 
 
 Thigh 24 
 
 Knee 19>i 
 
 Bottom 16j/2 
 
 TO DRAFT. 
 
 Square out and down from A. 
 
 A to B is rise. 9^/ inches. 
 
 B to C is length of inseam. 
 
 D is 2 inches above half tiic distance B to C. 
 
 B to Q is i/^ seat. 
 
 Square lines Q, B, D, C. 
 
 B to E is ^ seat and E to F is l^. 
 
 tj is halfway between B and F. 
 
 F to 1 and F to 2 is -'.s inch. 
 
 C to IT is the same as B to (1. 
 
 ii to [ is 1-16 seat. 
 
 1 l(j j and I to K is V4 bottom measure. 
 
 I. to M and L to N is ^ of knee measure. 
 
 2 to 3 is ' J of thigh measure. 
 E to O is ^2 inch. 
 
 Draw a line from P to F. 
 \' is halfway between R and S. 
 \' to U is I 2 of waist measure. 
 T to U is '4 inch. 
 
 THE BACKP.^RT. 
 
 X to Y is 2 inches. 
 Y to Z is 1-16 waist. 
 Z to 9 is 1 inch, 
 y to 7 is 1'4 inches. 
 
 I to l? is '4 inch more th:in 1-12 se;it. 
 
 3 to 8 is 1-12 seat. 
 
 Point 4 is }i inch back of P. 
 
 P to 3 is ]i seat. 
 
 Apply seat measure from P to Q, place this amount at 
 
 6 and come out to 7 one-half of seat measure plus 
 
 lyi inches. 
 9 to 12 is half waist and 2 inches. 
 12 to 11 is % waist. 
 Draw a line from 11 to point G. 
 
 II to 10 is A4 of an inch \'. 
 
 M to 16 and N to 17 is 'j inch. 
 K to 18 and J to 19 is ' j inch. 
 The waistband is 1'4 inches. 
 Shape as represented. 
 
18 
 
 Stone's .'idToiiced 
 Siif^crhUn'r Trouscr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIIL 
 
 The acconiiiaming diagram is for a man with hirge 
 hips and small waist. Tlie draft is made frum the 
 f(;Il(iwint,' measurements : 
 
 Rise 9 Hip 40 
 
 Leg M', Thigh 23 
 
 Waist 32 Knee 19 
 
 Bottom 16 
 
 TO DKAKT. 
 
 Square out and down from A. 
 
 A to C is rise of waist. 
 
 C to B is length of leg. 
 
 1) is 2 inches ahnxe h,df the distance hetween B to C. 
 
 C to E is I J seat. 
 
 K to F" is Vs seat. 
 
 (! is halfway hetween C and I'. 
 
 S(|uare up from (i for L. 
 
 1' to C is one-half (if thigh measure. 
 
 B to II is the same as T to ( '.. 
 
 11 to I IS ]-](. hip. 
 
 l)raw center hue finm (i to p(jint I. 
 
 1 to I and 1 to K i> ' , hottom. 
 
 Al to X and M to ( > is ' _. knee measure. 
 
 1" til 1' and h" to (J is .'s inch. 
 
 \-. to R is I _. inch. 
 
 ."^([U [re up lines h". and R. 
 
 I'oint 1 is half\\a\- hetween \' and S. 
 
 1 to 2 is ■ _. waist. 
 
 2 to ,1 is '.s inch. 
 
 Tale out dress as shown liv dotted line from S 
 
 through U to P. 
 1 his completes the forepart. 
 
 riii: i'..\cKr'.\RT. 
 The had part is drafted l)\- la\ing the forepart on 
 the paper and S(|U iring nut all the dilTerent lines. 
 O to 13 is 1-12 seat. 
 13 to 14 is one seam. 
 L to Y is 2 inches. 
 
 Y to Z is 1 inch. 
 
 V to 4 is 1-16 waist. 
 
 Draw a line from 4 to '4 inch hack at point U. 
 
 Shape from U dmvn through (J out to 14. 
 
 T to 11 is l-U. 
 
 7. to 12 is PS. 
 
 Aiijilv waist measure from S to 3, place this at 4, and 
 
 measure hack to 10 one-half of waist plus 2' 2 
 
 inches. 
 10 to 9 is ' ,-, waist. 
 Draw a line from 9 for point G. 
 Take out a 1 incli \' as from 6 to 7. 
 Shaiie as represented. 
 
 PLATE XIIL 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Troiiser System 
 
 19 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIV. 
 
 MEDIUM PEG-TOP TROUSERS. 
 
 The draft is made from the following measure- 
 ments : 
 
 Outside 41 Seat 39 
 
 Inside 32 Knee 21 
 
 Waist 34 Bottom 16>^ 
 
 TO DR.\FT. 
 THE FOREP.\RT. 
 
 Square out and down from A. 
 
 A to B is outside length. 
 
 B to C is inside length. 
 
 3 is 2 inches above half the distance between B and C. 
 
 C to S is J^ seat. 
 
 Square lines S, C, 3 and B. 
 
 C to D is y2. and D to E is 34 seat. 
 
 E to J is ^ and E to K is ^ inch. 
 
 D to L is J^ inch. 
 
 Square up line D and L and square down from K for 
 
 Q and M. 
 M to N is J/2 inch less than half of bottom measure. 
 Draw a straight line from N to 1 ' _. inch out from S. 
 
 5 to T is 1 inch. 
 I to U is I4 inch. 
 
 H to U is 12 of waist. 
 
 U to V and H to \\' is 1'4 inches for waistband. 
 
 F is halfway between C and E. 
 
 Square up from F for point G. 
 
 O is half-way between M and N. 
 
 Draw a line from O to F. 
 
 THE B.^CKPART. 
 
 G to 6 is 2 inches. 
 
 6 to 7 is 1-16 waist. 
 
 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 
 
 X is "^ inch back of line D. 
 
 J to 5 is 3^ inch more than 1-12 seat. 
 
 Q to 4 is ^ inch. 
 
 M to I is % inch. 
 
 N to 2 is ^ inch. 
 
 R to 3 is 1 inch. 
 
 T to 14 is 1^ inches. 
 
 Apply waist measure from H to U. Place tliis amount 
 
 at 7 and come out to 9, half the waist measure and 2 
 
 inches. 
 10 to 11 is I/, inch. 
 
 9 to 13 is 1'4 inch, and 8 to 15 is 1 inch. 
 Shape as represented. 
 
20 
 
 Stone's .\dvaiiccd 
 Siij^crlativc Triiiiscr Systrin 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XV. 
 
 TROUSERS. 
 
 .Stout Figure. 
 
 The draft is made from the fuUuwini; measure- Whatever has been gained from S to Y advance stride 
 
 "i*^"'* • same amount from F to Z and reduce same amount 
 
 Rise 10'/, Thigh 2t. ^''O'" R to 1. 
 
 Inseam 32 Knee 21 ■ . ^PP'.V ' -' o^ tiiigh measure from F to 3. 
 
 Waist 44 Bottom 17 
 
 Seat 
 
 .44 
 
 S(|uare out and down from A. 
 
 .\ to I'! is rise. 
 
 E) to t' is inside k-ngtli. 
 
 1) is 2 inches ahow half the <hstance fmm I! to (' 
 
 B to R is ' ,s seal. 
 
 -Square lines R. M. 1). 
 
 B to F is > J seat. 
 
 E to F is i.s seat. 
 
 i'l is halfway hetween !> an<l Z. 
 
 Square up from (i for point U an<l down for II. 
 
 H to I is \-U, seat. 
 
 I to J and I to K is '4 bottom measure. 
 
 L to X and L to M is ' 4 knee measure. 
 
 F to ( ) is '_, inch. 
 
 S([uare up lines h" and ( ). 
 
 U to W and U to X is '4 waist. 
 
 S(|uare down from W to point T. 
 
 W to T is I ,i I he distance from P to O. 
 
 Draw a line from T to ( ). 
 
 Raise front from I' to \' the same amount that there 
 
 is from P to W. 
 Point F ha\ ing been advanced to point Z 3/^ of an 
 
 inch, the distance from Z to F will be -'j^ of an inch 
 
 and from Z to 2, 's of an inch. 
 
 TliE I;.\CKP.^RT. 
 
 U to .^ is 2 inches. 
 
 .^ to () is l-ld waist. 
 
 6 til 7 is 1 inch. 
 
 Point 4 is ' 1 nich back of line E. 
 
 2 to 11 is 'j incli more tiian 1-12 seat. 
 11 to 12 is '4 inch. 
 
 4 to 17 is i.s seat. 
 
 1 to 9 is 1.'4 inches. 
 
 Measure uji tiie seat by measuring frtmi .S to 1, 
 
 place this amount at IS and come hack to Q one-half 
 
 of seat measure plus 1 ' _> inches. 
 
 3 to 10 is I 4 inch less than 1-12 seat. 
 N to 14 and .M to 13 is ' _, inch. 
 
 J to I.s and K to Pi is 1 _, inch. 
 
 The wddtli of waistband is 1'4 inches. 
 
 Shape as represented. 
 
Stone'.' .Idvanccd 
 SupnLitirc 'Frouscr System 
 
 21 
 
 PLATE XV. 
 
22 
 
 Sto)ic's Advanced 
 Snpcrlath'c Trouscr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVI. 
 
 Trousers for a corpulent figure from tlie following 
 measures ; 
 
 Outside 46 Seat 58 
 
 Inside 32 Thigh 34 
 
 Waist 60 Knee 25 
 
 Abdomen 61 Bottom 19 
 
 TO DRAFT. 
 THE FOREPART. 
 
 Square out and down from A. 
 
 A to B is rise, 14 inches. 
 
 B to C is inseam, 32 inches. 
 
 D is 2 inches above half the distance between B to C. 
 
 B to Z is >^ seat. 
 
 Square lines Z, B, C and D- 
 
 B to E is 1/ and E to F is 's seat. 
 
 E to P is 14 inch. 
 
 G is halfway between P. and F. 
 
 Square up lines G, E and P. 
 
 Square down from (i for I. 
 
 I to J is 1-16 seat. 
 
 Draw a line from (i to I. 
 
 K to L and K to M is ' 4 knee measure. 
 
 J to O and J to N is '4 bottom measure. 
 
 H to T and H to S is '4 waist. 
 
 Square down from T to U. 
 
 T to U is 1/3 the distance from P to R. 
 
 Draw a line from P to U. 
 
 Whatever distance is from Q to V, ad\ance same 
 
 atnount' from F to X and take off from Z to 2 same 
 
 amount. 
 
 From T to W is the same as from R to T. 
 
 X to F and X to Y is -'s inch. 
 
 F to 18 is ' j of thigh measure. 
 
 Raise waist 3g inch as from S to 1 and shape outside 
 
 from 1 through 2, 18 and M to N. 
 Shape inside from Y through 2i< and L t(j (J. 
 Draw a line from V to X and shape front from W 
 
 through T and U through 3 to Y. 
 
 V to 3 is f^ inch. 
 
 THE BACKl'ART. 
 
 Cut out forepart and place same on drafting paper and 
 
 extend lines in usual manner. 
 H to 13 is 3 inches. 
 13 to 14 is 1-16 waist. 
 Draw seat line from 14 through 11 and Y out to 10. 
 
 Y to 10 is ^ inch more than 1-12 seat. 
 9 to 10 is the same as L to Y. 
 
 I to 9 i\m\ M to 8 is 1 _. inch. 
 ( ) to 6 and N to 7 is ' j inch, 
 
 II to 12 is >'^ seat. 
 
 Apply seat measure from ij to 2. place this at 15 and 
 
 come back to 16 one-half of seat plus I'j inches. 
 Line 20 is ! s seat down from T. 
 Measure forepart from 20 to 21, place this amount at 
 
 22 and come back to 23 one-half of abdomen plus 
 
 1 inch. 
 Apply waist from W to 1. place this at 14, come back 
 
 to 24 one-half of waist measure plus 1 inch for 
 
 seams. 
 The height of the waist band averages 1'4 inches. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Supciiath'e Trouser System 
 
 23 
 
 PLATE XVI. 
 
24 
 
 Stone's Ad^'anccd 
 Supciiath'c 'I'rauscr S\strin 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVIL 
 
 For a Bow-leg Figure. 
 
 The draft is made from tlie fcillciwing measure- 
 ments : 
 
 Outside 42 Seat 40 
 
 Inside i2 Thigh 24 
 
 Waist 36 Knee 19' S 
 
 I'.ottom 17 
 
 In takin.i; the liow of the legs, have tlie client put 
 his two feet, heels and toes together, then measure 
 distance hetvveen the knees. This may he dcme b\' 
 inserting one, two or three lingers. In this case the 
 opening is three fingers or 1^ _, inches. 
 
 TO OR.XFT. 
 
 Square out and down from .-X. 
 
 A to B is outside length. 
 
 B to C is inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches above half the distance from B to C. 
 
 C to R is ' ,s seat. 
 
 Square lines R, C, D and B. 
 
 C to E is ^ seat. 
 
 F to F is ' 1^ seat. 
 
 F to J and F to K is ^s inch. 
 
 C, is halfway lietween (.' and F. 
 
 Square up and ddwn from ( i. 
 
 E to M is I J inch. 
 
 Square up from F ami M. 
 
 The thi.gh measure heing less than ivirnial and thigh 
 
 is hiillow on the inside, apply 'j of thi.gh me 
 
 from C to I and draw a strai,ght line from I to 
 P(jint P is Yi, inch frcmi < >. 
 P to Q is I J waist. 
 O to S is '4 inch. 
 
 T to U and T to V is '4 knee measure. 
 II to W and H to X is '4 bottom measure. 
 X to Y is ' J inch. 
 These kind of figures usually ha\e a hollow tbi; 
 
 the inside, hence I go back from J to T, '4 
 
 and draw a line from I to V. 
 
 isure 
 
 inch, 
 
 The dress is per diitted line from P through X to j, 
 running down to puint J. 
 
 THE B.\CK1'ART. 
 
 L to 1 is 2 inches. 
 
 1 to 2 is 1-16 waist. 
 
 2 ti\ ,1 is 1 inch. 
 
 N ti] y is ' 4 inch. 
 
 k 1(1 12 is '4 inch mure than 1-12 seat. 
 
 K 1(1 10 is l.i4 inches. 
 
 N til 7 is ' ,s seat. 
 
 .^(|uare acri>ss for pdint S. apply seat measure from 
 
 9 to R, place this at S and coiue out to 10. cme-half 
 
 of seat measure plus 1 ' _> inches for seam and ease. 
 C to 11 is 1-12 seat. 
 .Vp])ly waist measure froiu P to .S, place this at 3 and 
 
 come bads to 4; one-half r)f waist, plus 2 inches for 
 
 seams ancl a "\'." 4 to .^ is ' ,, waist. 
 .T tn (! is 54 (if an inch. 
 F(ir bow-legs swing liaclspart in 2^^ inches from 11 
 
 t(i 20 and draw a line fidm 20 to (1. which locates 
 
 the center (if the backpart. 
 21 til 14 and 21 to 1,^ is ' _> inch more than '4 knee 
 
 measure. 
 20 to Id and 20 til IS is ' _. inch more than '4 of bottom 
 
 measure. 
 IN til 17 is 1 I4 inches. 
 Draw a line from 14 to 17, then swing out the inseam 
 
 from 17 to IS. 
 Dr.iw a straight line from I.t to Id and add -s of an 
 
 inch o\er the calf of the leg at 23 and reduce '4 
 
 inch at the ankle, point 22. 
 Be sure and keep the knee notches e\en as shown in 
 
 diagram. The outside of both the backpart and 
 
 forepart has been lengthened to allow extra length 
 
 ii\er the bow of the leg on the outside. In cutting 
 
 the cloth hold the center lines straight on the goods. 
 
 The waistband is usually 1 inch wide. 
 
Stoiir's .hiz'aiiccd 
 .MZ/rr/d/iTT 1 roiiscr Syslcin 
 
 25 
 
 PLATE XVII. 
 
26 
 
 Stone's .Adi'aiiccd 
 Siiperlati7'c Trouscr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVIIL 
 
 For a Flat-Seated Ficure With Calves Projecting Ott In the Back. 
 
 The draft is made from the following measure- 
 ments ; 
 
 Outside 4132 Seat . . 
 
 Inside 32 Thigh . 
 
 Waist 34 Knee . 
 
 Bottom 
 
 .38 
 
 .19 
 .16' 
 
 T(i PRAFT. 
 
 Square out ami down from A. 
 
 A to B is outside length. 
 
 B to C is inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches above half the distance from B to C. 
 
 C to E is i/^ seat. 
 
 E to F is J/^ seat. 
 
 F to M and F to J is ^/s inch. 
 
 Apply one-half thigh measure from C for point K, and 
 
 draw a line from K to VV and hollow forepart as at 
 
 point 9. 
 (] is halfway between C and F. 
 Square up from (i to T. 
 B to H is the same as C to G. 
 H to I is 1-16 seat. 
 
 Draw center line from I to G, locating point V. 
 C to N is M seat. 
 Square across for point ( >. P. 
 E to L is ^ inch. 
 F to J and F to M is ■'« inch. 
 V to W and V to X is '4 knee measure. 
 I to Y and I to Z is '4 bottom measure. 
 This tv])e of figure having a hollow inside thigh or 
 
 open thigh, as it is called, go back from J to K, ;^8 
 
 inch, and draw a straight line from K to W. 
 R is 14 inch in from Q. 
 R to S is J4 waist. 
 S to U is ;4 inch. 
 
 Draw a straight line from X to N and add fully J4 
 
 inch as at point C and 11. 
 The forepart for this type of form should be pressed 
 
 in over the outside hip as from 11 to S. 
 
 THE BACKPART. 
 
 T to 1 is 2 inches and 1 to 2 is 1-16 waist. 
 
 (J to 3 is ' J inch. 
 
 M to S is 1-12 seat and 8 to 7 is the usual '4 inch, but 
 
 wlien the seat is straightened as from ( ) to 3, I also 
 
 reduce jioint the same amount from 7 to 8. 
 \' to 1.? ;in(l \' to 14 is 'j inch more than '4 knee. 
 I to 1.^ and [ to 16 is ' _. inch more than '4 bottom. 
 () to 4 is I s seat. 
 Square Ijack from 4 for iioint .^. 
 Apply seat measure from < ) to N, place this at 5 and 
 
 come back to 6 one-half of seat plus I'j inches for 
 
 seams and make-up. 
 -A.pply waist measure frcjm R to U, ])lace this at point 
 
 2f) and come l)ack at 21. ' _. of waist and 2 inches for 
 
 seams an<l a \'. 
 
 21 to 22 is '„ of waist. 
 
 22 to 23 is i_; inch. 
 
 Notch forepart and liack as at 11 and 12, and 9 and 10. 
 
 12 to 21 is Yg, inch shorter than 11 to U 
 
 Notches 13 and 14 on the backpart are moved up ^ 
 inch from the notches on the forepart, so that the 
 backpart may be stretched as from 12 to 13 and 
 10 to 14. 
 
 E.xtra width of calf is added to the backpart at point 
 1'^ and 20, and the fore]iarts are shrunk in so that 
 the notches will meet. The forepart must be shrunk 
 in well from 17 to 18 and the backpart shrunk in 
 well from 24 to 2?. 
 
 Point 26) is 1 inch u]) from 2, 
 
 The waistband is usually 1 inch wide. 
 
 Note. — In making trousers for this form use shaper 
 
 C, on page 42. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Siil>C)lativc Troiiscr System 
 
 27 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Troiiser System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIX. 
 
 SPRING BOTTOM PANTS. 
 
 The accompanying diagram is that of a regular old- 
 fasliioned spring hottoni pants. Tiu- (h'aft is made 
 friini the following measurements: 
 
 Outside 43 
 
 Inside 33 
 
 Waist 34 
 
 Seat 39 
 
 Thigh . 
 Knee . 
 Calf .. 
 Ankle . 
 Bottom 
 
 TO DRAFT. 
 
 S(juare out and down from A. 
 
 A to B is outside, ami B to C is inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches above half the distance from B to C. 
 
 C to T is ;<i seat. 
 
 Square lines T, C, I) and B. 
 
 C to E is l', and V. to F is 'g seat. 
 
 F to I and F to J is 's inch. 
 
 E to P is y2 inch. 
 
 G is halfway between C and F. 
 
 B to K is the same as C to G. K to L is 1-16 seat. 
 
 Square from G through H to X and draw a line from 
 
 G to L. 
 L to ( ) is 4 inches and M to N is 4' j inches. 
 Square across from O to N. 
 Lengthen outside of forepart from 4 to 9, '4 distance 
 
 from K to L. 
 M to 1 and M to 2 is '4 knee ( 16 '4 on fourths). 
 ( )n spring bottom pants I always make the widths on 
 
 the forepart at the bottom 1 inch less than at the 
 
 knee. 
 In this case L to 3 and L to 4 is 14i _. on fourths. 
 Q to R is 54 waist. 
 Shape forepart as represented by broken lines. 
 
 The easiest way to obtain the correct width of trousers 
 
 at knee and bottom is to add the amount desired for 
 
 seams ( in this case 1 inch ) to the actual measure 
 
 and apply it in the following manner: 
 Then place liottom of S(|uare at 1 ami measure out to 
 
 IS ( 1/1 _. inches on liahcs ). 
 Place end of square at |)oint 2 and measure out to 19 
 
 ( 1/1 J on halves ). 
 Then place bottom of s(|uare at 3 and measure out to 
 
 11 (23 on halves). 
 Then from 4 to 10 (23 on halves). 
 5 to 14 and 6 to l.s is l(ii j on halves. 
 7 to 17 ;md S to 1() is IS on halves. 
 ( )wing to the extra lengtli gaincil liy the spring at the 
 
 ])ottom, the baclqiart is to be shortened -/s inch as 
 
 from 10 to 13 and 11 to 12. 
 F to U is 1-12 seat. 
 T to W is 1 ■>4 inches. 
 E to S is ' x seat and point S is halfway between lines 
 
 F and P. 
 19 to 2') is I 4 inch less th:ui 1 to J. 
 li to X is 3 inches. 
 X to A' is 1-1() waist. 
 Hollow backpart '4 inch as at 27. 
 18 to Z is '4 inch less than 2 to R. 
 Apply waist measure froni (J to R. 
 Place this at 27 and measure out to Z, ' ., waist and 
 
 2' 4 inches for se:nns and '4 inch \' taken out be- 
 tween 21 and 22. 
 S to V is 34 seat. 
 Apply seat measure from S to T, place this amount 
 
 at V and measure out to W. ij of the seat and 1^2 
 
 inches added for scams and ease. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouscr System 
 
 29 
 
 PLATE XIX. 
 
30 
 
 Stone's Adi'iuiccd 
 Supcrlaik'c Tronscr Sxstcm 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XX. 
 
 TENNIS TROUSERS. 
 
 \ViTH A Perm.a.nent Turn-up. 
 
 Tliese kinds of trousers are usually made of a 
 striped flannel, and gentlemen wearing them often ob- 
 ject to the run of the stripes in the back, and by prac- 
 tice we ha\e found that the seat seam may be cut 
 straight with the stripe, and an extra large "\"' taken 
 out in the backpart. The accompanying draft is made 
 from the following nie.'isurements : 
 
 Outside 41 Seat 39 
 
 Inside 32 Knee 19' i 
 
 Waist 34 I'.ottdm 17 
 
 TO DK.\FT. 
 
 Square out and down from A. 
 
 A to B is outside length. 
 
 B to C is inside length. 
 
 D is 2 inches above half the distance from P. t 
 
 C to T is \i seat. 
 
 .Square lines T, C, D and B. 
 
 C to li is ■ 2 seat. 
 
 E ta F is y^. 
 
 (i is halfwa\- between C and F. 
 
 ."^((uare uj) fr(jm 1 1. 
 
 H to 11 is the same as C to G. 
 
 Draw line from (i to 11. 
 
 H to L is 1-16 seat. 
 
 Draw center line from 1, to (1 for points N am 
 
 Trousers with a permanent turn-up must be 
 least 1 inch shorter, hence shorten the leg 
 as from L to M and S(|uare across both way; 
 M by center line M N. 
 
 I M. 
 cut at 
 1 inch 
 ; from 
 
 M to K and M to Q is '4 of bottom measure. 
 
 Square down from R and Q. 
 
 X to ( ) and N to P is '4 of knee measure. 
 
 I" to I and V to j is j,s incli. 
 
 P to K is ■ _> inch. 
 
 .Square u]) lines V. and K. 
 
 \' to W is ',2 waist. 
 
 S to X is ]A inch. 
 
 THE B.\CKP..\RT. 
 
 S(iuarc U]i from X for ])oints 4. ^' and Z. 
 
 Y to 7. is 3' J inches. 
 
 X to 19 is 1 inch more than '4 waist. 
 
 19 to 21 is 'k waist. 
 
 21 to 22 is I 4 waist. 
 
 19 to 20 is 1 inch less than ',5 seat. 
 
 I to 1 is 1-12 seat. 
 
 1 to 2 is '.s inch. 
 
 S to 3 is the same as ( ) to 1. 
 
 ( ) to S and r^ to 7 is > _, inch. 
 
 O to 9 and R to 10 is ■ j inch. 
 
 S<|uare down from 9 and 10 for points 11, 12. 13. and 
 14, 1,^ and P.. 
 
 10 to 11 and 11 to 12 is Dj inches or whate\-er turn- 
 up is desired. 
 
 12 to 13 is usually 1'4 inches for turn-under. 
 
 Appl\' seat measure from .S to T and from 4 to ,^. 
 ' J of seat and 1^/4 inclies. 
 
 From forepart at C to 6 is 1-12 seat. 
 
 Shape as represented. 
 
Stone's .Idz'anccd 
 Siipcrlatk'c Troiiscr Systrin 
 
 31 
 
 PLATE XX. 
 
Stone's .-idz'iiiiccd 
 Siil^crliiti-rr Trdusrr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXL 
 
 GOLF BREECHES. 
 
 Tilt' draft is iiKuk- tr(jni the folic iwiii.t; measure- the iiACKrAKT. 
 
 nients ; I, to 1 is 2 inclies. 
 
 Rise 9 Seat .« 1 tn 2 is P4 inches. 
 
 T a \2 Fn • ■ '0 ^ '^" '*' ''^ ^^^'' ^^''''^f- 
 
 W^ist . ^' ! ^ ^' ..'.'..' ' .' ^33 Small .,f leg 14 ^^I'l''.^ ^^••''^' measure frnni 1' to (J. place this at 3, and 
 
 ciiine hack to 4. (ine-half of waisi ami 1^ ^ inches. 
 
 4 to .=^ is ',, waist. 
 TO liR.VFT. - . , . 
 
 .s to () IS ■>4 men. 
 Square out and down from A. ^ to 7 is 2 inches, 
 
 .\ to R is rise. ^ to S is 1 1 , inches. 
 
 B to C is ■ , of the regular leg. 16 inches. •'^ to C" is ' _, hich. 
 
 C to D is 3 indies. 
 
 R to 13 is ' , inch. 
 
 B to () is Is seat. '^' t" 1-^ '^ '4 inch. 
 
 B to E is I, seat. \^' t" '- '^ '4 inch. 
 
 E to E is Vk ■' t'' '' '"^ '4 '"'^''' iii'Tc than 1-12 seat. 
 
 G is halfway hetween B and F. '^ to 10 is the same as R to J. 
 
 Square uj) and down from ( ;. "i*^' f"'"'-'l';ii"t in front at hottom is lengthened .^s inch 
 
 E to K is '1 inch '""' ''"-' '''ick]>art is shortened in the middle \s inch. 
 
 Square up lines I'" and K. -"^ hand al)out 1 inch wide is put at the hottom, and 
 
 P to ( ) is ' . waist. the front and hack are felled on to this h.ind and 
 
 B to X is .>4 and ( ) to Y is ' \ inch. finished as shown on a little cut in middle (if dr:Lft. 
 
 M to K and M to S is '4 knee. There is an opening on the outside as from ."^ to \', 
 
 H to T and TI to U is '4 the size of the small of leg. and the haii.l is fastened together with a hutton or 
 
 U to \' and 'T to W is ' | of an inch fullness. huckle. 
 
 F to 1 and F to j is -'.s inch. . Shape as represented. 
 
Stfliic'j Advanced 
 Supciiatirc Troiiscr System 
 
 33 
 
 PLATE XXI. 
 
 1416 
 
34 Stone's Ad^'Giiccd 
 
 Suftvlatri't' Troiiscr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIL 
 
 RIDING BREECHES. 
 
 Ih' I'Kdl'l.mXKlN.S. 
 
 Many cutters are puzzled how to proceed when cut- H to I is 's seat. Square down for Q. 
 
 ting Riding Breeches from tlic ordinary measures, so The small of knee in this case is I'j inches more than 
 
 here is a formula how to proceed. The length of the ' ,, .seat, or say 14 inches. 
 
 le<' to the knee is onedialf of the leg for ordinary The calf will he 14' _> or '_. inch more than the small of 
 
 trousers. The full length of inseam to the ankle aver- leg. 
 
 ages 4 inches less than full length of leg for regular The ankle will average 10 inches on these short legs. 
 
 trousers. The width of the small of the leg helow the Draw a line from K through O. 
 
 knee averages 1 ' _. inches more than ' .i of seat. 'l"hc 1 .^ in X and R to W is 1 '4 inches. 
 
 calf averages 2 inches more than 'jof seat. The an- I "raw a Ime from X to W and sha])e outside of fore- 
 
 kle averages 1 ' _> inches less than '4 of seat. The part troni 1' through Z, Y to X. 
 
 measures of the regular trousers are as f(jllows: I? to U is '4 knee and 1\ to \' is '4 hottom. 
 
 T->- n, • w ■ I ?; L' to I is '4 inch. 
 
 Rise yij \\ aist vi -* 
 
 T ^^ Seat ii^ *^ "' ""' ^ '''^ from U to T and shape inseam of fore- 
 part friini T througli, S up to J. 
 
 TO nR,^FT. When V is taken out at knee the forepart will swing 
 
 Si|uare out and down from A. in so that point R will lay on point 3. 
 A to B is rise. 
 
 11 ^ <■ • , f 1 ; w ■ I 1 THE l!.\CKrART. 
 
 B to C IS ' _. of leg ( U) mches). 
 
 From C to 1) is 4 inches. Points 10 and 11 are ' _. inch out from S and 7. 
 
 C" t(.i R is '4 of leg (S inches). These hreeches come .Apply knee measure from X to V. place this at 10 and 
 
 only to just helow the calf. come hack to 14 one-half of small of knee jilus 1 
 
 If for full length to the ;inkle go down from C to K 12 inch. 
 
 inches. -^I'l''.^' nieasure o\cr the calf and .add 1 inch. 
 
 C to V is .T inches, ."^(luare lines B, Y. C. D and F. Apply hottom measure from \' to \\ . place this at 12. 
 
 B to I' is ' _. and 1' to d is 's seat. .and come out the nieasure plus 1 inch for V.. 
 
 II is halfway hetween B and (i. Cul out ■'>4 inch \' in l)ackpart as from Q to l?. 
 
 S(|uare up from H for 19-20. j to 1() is 1-12 seat and 16 to 34 is '^4 inch. 
 
 B to L is .'i4 inch. Ray cijrner of square at i) and arm 1') to 2'' is 3i . inches. Hraw seat line from 18 to 20. 
 
 of si|uarc on jioint R, and with S(juare in this posi- 20 to 2H is 1'.. inches. 
 
 tion S(iuare up lines K and l'\ Z t(i 24 is 2^ j and V to 2? is 3 inches. 
 
 Square hack from 1 1 for N. " -^1']''.^ waist measure from ( ) to P. place this at 28. 
 
 N to P is ; _. inch and R to Z is 1 inch. cimie out to 2.^ one-half of waist and 2'_. inches. 
 
 18 is l4 seat up from K. J is .>,s inch from G. 24 to 2.> is '4 inch more than Z to P. 
 
 (.) to P is '4 of waist measure. 21 to 22 is 1 inch \' taken out. 
 
 Points X and 10 are '4 inch helow knee line C, S. .\dd 1 inch waist band. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlatk'e Tronser System 
 
 35 
 
 PLATE XXII. 
 
36 
 
 Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouscr System 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIIL 
 
 RIDING BREECHES. 
 
 The accompanying draft is a regular pair of Kiding 
 Breeches with whicli hoots, puttie leggings or cloth 
 leggings may he worn. With this diagram we gi\e a 
 method of cutting the cloth leggings. The draft is 
 made from the following measures: 
 
 Rise 9^2 Small of leg helow 
 
 Full length of leg. ..32 knee 14 
 
 Waist ...34 Lalf U-m 
 
 Seat 39 Ankle 9 
 
 TO DRAFT. 
 THE FOKI!I',\KT. 
 
 Square out and down from .A. 
 
 A to H is rise, 9'/2 inches. 
 
 B to C is <)ne-lialf of leg, 16 inches. 
 
 C tij 1) is 12 inches, making the distance from B to D 
 2S inches (or less 's of full leg length). 
 
 C to \5 is 4' _. inches. C to ,^ is .^ inches. 
 
 Square lines B, C, D and 3 and 15. 
 
 B to F is 1 J seat, and F to F is 'k seat. 
 
 (1 is halfway hetween B and F. 
 
 (i III 1 I is 2 inches. It ma\-. howc\ er, he more, ac- 
 cording to the spread of legs of the rider when in 
 the saddle. 
 
 Square down from H for center line. 
 
 I to M and I to N is '4 small of leg measure. 
 
 J to U and J to .S is '4 of calf measure, 
 
 K to U and K to T is '4 of ankle measure. 
 
 M to < ) is 1 I4 inches. 
 
 Draw inside line from 2 to 0. 
 
 F t(j 1 and F to 2 is 4-g inch. 
 
 F to W is '2 inch. 
 
 Shape foreiiart from P round in to M. 
 
 -^ to Q is 1 1 J inches and B to 7 is 1 ' 2 inches. 
 
 Shape forepart from 7 through Q into N as shown hy 
 dotted line. 
 
 B to V is ;/ inch, lay corner of square at F. let arm 
 
 rest on \', square u]i from V. and W, lay corner of 
 square at X and sc|uare hack through Z for Y, raise 
 forepart ■'« inch at Y. 
 
 X to Y is '2 of waist. 
 
 Point 24 is 's seat up from W. 
 
 THE BACKPART. 
 
 Lay forepart on ])ai.)er and line ofif as usual. 
 
 Z to 20 is 4 inches and 20 to 21 is 1 ' s inches. 
 
 1 to 2.^ is '2 inch more than 1-12 seat. 
 
 M to 9 and N to C is ' 2 inch. 
 
 R to 10 and S to L"; is 1 2 inch. 
 
 K til 12 and 13 is > 1 inch each way. 
 
 Take a \' out in the hackpart. 
 
 12 to 11 and 13 In 14 is 3 inches each way or enough 
 width at ankle plus seams. 
 
 7 to IS is 2' J inches. 
 
 IS to 19 is '4 inch mure than 7 to Y. 
 
 Apply waist from -X to \'. Place this at 20 and come 
 out to 19, half of w.iist plus 2' j inches 
 
 19 to 23 is |„ waist. 
 
 23 to 22 is ■>4 inch. 
 
 The waist hand is 1 '4 inches high. 
 
 2S is ''4 inch up from M. 
 
 2S to 27 is I 4 inch. 
 
 I to 29 is '4 inch and '4 inch is taken out at 16. 
 
 The forepart nnist he held in as from (J to N and P to 
 M so as to form ,1 knee. 
 
 NiiTE. — In cirder In ha\'e the opening run to the front 
 of leg cut III! the fiirepart as fmni 3 to 4, which is 1 
 inch hack fnim the center line, then shape oft the 
 outside as from (> through ,^ and 3.^ to 3. What- 
 ever has heen cut off from the forepart as from Q 
 to -T, N to 3 and T tn 4, add this same amount on to 
 the hackpart as fnim C to 31, 13 to 32 and 14 to 33. 
 To this add a huttim st.and as from 31 to 33. 
 
 The reinforcements on the inside of the leg should be 
 shajied so that the forepart from the knee up gets 
 a pear shape. 
 
Stone's .Idvanccd 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
 37 
 
 PLATE XXIII. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIV. 
 LEGGINGS. 
 
 The legging is drafted liy laying front an<l backjiart 
 
 together as per dotted lines on leggings. 
 There are seven buttonholes and buttons on the leg 
 
 gings. 
 Draw a line on the center of l)acl<i)art anil make a 
 
 seam on the legging as per line B, 1'-. I"'. 
 Cut out at H whatever the distance is Ijetween the fore- 
 
 ])art and backjjart at A. 
 The width of the leggings is to Ije ' .. inch more than 
 
 the leg. A, P., C and D. 
 \i to 11 and E to (i is ' j inch, and ' .. inch is taken out 
 
 at F. 
 (] to L is the same as H to 1). and H to N is the same 
 
 as B to C. 
 .\ button stand is left on the outside of both the leg 
 
 and the legging, 
 h'or length of legging ap])ly the inside length of leg and 
 
 add 1 inch to regular measure. 
 The leggings are fastened on to the leg by a buttonhole 
 
 in the seam of the legging ' _> inch below B. and a 
 
 small buttcinliole tal.) is sewed on to the legging so 
 
 that it buttons on to the end button on the outside of 
 
 the leg. 
 The l.)ottom of the leggings have straps sewed on t i 
 
 the legging on the inside and buttoned or buckle 1 
 
 on to the outside of legging. 
 
 PLATE XXIV. 
 
 '^^J\?J■^^'iy^Qy') -'jr^v^v^ 
 
38 
 
 Stone's Adz'anccd 
 Supivlatiz'c TroHSCV Sxstcin 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXV. 
 
 RIDING BREECHES. 
 
 The legs of these hreeches e-xtend ddwn tu the 
 ankle, and riding hoots are usually worn with this 
 particular style of hreeches. The inside of the legs 
 are reinforced with the same cloth, and tiie lower part 
 of legs are cut off antl finished with a lighter weight 
 material. 
 
 Note. — These breeches are cut on a straight center 
 line, as some clients want the hreeches to fit well oft" 
 the horse as well as in the saddle. For comfortable 
 riding breeches swing center of knee out the same as 
 gi\en in the preceding diagram of breeches. 
 
 Tiie draft is [iroduced from the following measures: 
 
 Rise of waist 9^2 Knee 17 
 
 Inseam i2> ' Small of leg below 
 
 Waist 
 Seat . 
 
 .34 knee 13' .. 
 
 .38 Calf 14 
 
 Ankle 9'1 
 
 ?-fourth of seat meas- 
 if leg ( 14' J inches). 
 
 Square out and down from .\. 
 A. to i; is 9' J inches rise ( oi 
 
 ure ) . 
 I) to C is 2 inches less thari ' _• 
 C to D is 4 inches. 
 B to F is 3' J inches less than inscani, and F to E is () 
 
 inches. 
 .Square lines B, C, D and V . 
 P) t(i M is I J seat an<l 1 1 to I is \i seat. 
 
 1 is halfway between 1! and I. 
 F to (J is the same as *B to J. 
 Draw center line through J and O. 
 
 1 1 to -^ is 'j inch, and I to 3 and I to 4 is -^s inch. 
 Lower waist in front ' _> inch from ( i to 2 and raise 
 side at hips as fri;m W to 1, 'S inch. 
 
 2 to I is I J waist. 
 B to V is ;V4 inch. 
 
 .\p])ly knee measure '4 of knee each way from K tn L' 
 and K to T ( 17 on fourths). 
 
 M to S and M to R is '4 small of knee each way ( 14 
 on fourths ) . 
 
 The width of the waist-band, which in this case is 
 added to the breeches, is 1 ' _, inches 
 
 In order to get the outside seam to nm towards the 
 middle of leg in front, reduce the forepart as from 
 T to (), R to 7 and P to X. 
 
 The e.xact amount to Ije cut off from the forepart 
 varies a little according to size of leg, as well as to 
 style and fancy, and whate\er is taken off' from fore- 
 part must be added to the backpart. 
 
 The rcnifi)rcement on inside of leg extends forward 
 towards knee and is cut so as to give the forepart a 
 imitorm tapering sh.apc. dhe oiiening on outside 
 1 begins at point 7. The buttons are spaced 1J4 
 inches apart. 
 
 THE BACKr.-\RT. 
 
 the 
 
 Cut out fore])art and ])lace it on drafting paper, 
 shaded purtiim being the forepart. 
 
 3 to 2i is 1-12 .seat. 
 
 L' to 22 is ' J inch. 
 
 S to 21 is -^4 inch. 
 
 .\l.)ply the knee measure, 17 inches, from U to 6, place 
 this at 21 and measure out to 16, 18 inches. 
 
 .\p|)ly small i:)f knee from S to 7, place this at 2L 
 measiu^e across to 1.^, small of knee measure and 1 
 inch added. 
 
 The calf measure is ne.Kt applied froiu Q to S and 13 
 to 14: to this add 1 inch. Xe.xt apply the ankle 
 measure from 30 to 29. place this at 1 '. measure 
 b:ick to 2S anil add 1 inch for seams. 
 
 The opening extends to 7 ,ind the first button is 1 '4 
 inches down from 7. Fiy first locating the inside 
 seam of b:ickp:irt it is an easy m:itter to get the out- 
 side seinii, as whate\er has been cut oft' from the 
 fore])art will lie .iilded to the backpart, which the 
 measure will call for. 
 
 The backpart is cut '4 inch shorter from the knee 
 line (hiwn. The forepart is to be held in at i)oints 
 U and U. ;in(l the liackpart stretched from 1.^ to 16 
 and 21 to 22. .\ button staml is left on the outside 
 of the ])ackp;irt as at 14 and 1.^. 
 
 1. to 24 is 2 inches, and 24 to X is 4 inches. 
 
 X to Y is 1 I _. inches. 
 
 Sweep out from W to 20 by C. 
 
 .\pply waist measure from 2 to 1, place this at Y and 
 me:isure back to 20, half of waist measure and 254 
 inches for seams and a \'. 
 
 25 to 2u is 1 inch. 
 
 The width of waist-band is 1'.. inches: the inside re- 
 inforcement extend from halfway between the 
 crotch and knee .and is stretched onto the fore|)art 
 ;is indicated by dotte<l lines. 
 
 Di''gr:'.ni C represents the reinforcements, and Dia- 
 gr m 1! represents the leg finished. 
 
 I he Iov>er portions or contiiniation of the legs as fnim 
 F to V, are in this case cut separate and from a 
 ligliter weight material so as to make this part more 
 pliable, easier on the leg of the wearer. 
 
Stone's Adzwicrd 
 Supciiatkr Trouser System 
 
 39 
 
 PLATE XXV. 
 
40 
 
 Stone's Advanced 
 Supcvlativc Troiiscr Sxsfcin 
 
 PLATE XXVI. 
 
Stone's Jdz'anccd 
 Siiperlatk'C Troiiscr System 
 
 ATTITUDES. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXVI. 
 
 In cutting trousers as well as coats, the attitude of 
 the client must l>e taken into consideration, hence I 
 here present Plate XX\'I. The middle figure marked A 
 B, C. represents the normal figure where the center of 
 gravity runs through the middle of the figure line A. 
 B, C, and trousers cut and made up regularly will fit 
 correctly and in this case we use shaper A for the 
 shape of the legs. Keep front straight from A, 
 through C to knee, slirink forejiart back '4 inch as 
 from K to L and bring it out ' _. inch beyond point 
 B at bottom. Shrink in well in ham, point F, and 
 bring out calf just a little at point R with not too 
 mttch round from E to D. 
 
 In the figure to the right we ha\e the erect form, his 
 head and shoulders are erect, hence to counterljalance 
 himself the lower portion of his body assumes a back- 
 ward attitude as per solid lines S, 4. 3 and 9. 
 Use shaper B for this form. This client 
 stands erect, but has a large protruding seat 
 and trousers are ajn to get too long in front opposite 
 end of flv. PVess in forepart so it will come back ^ 
 inch at point C-J and 1 inch at K-1,. from a straiglit 
 line and let forepait o\errun 1 inch at point B. Shape 
 the backpart so it will conic up to ami lit into the seams 
 of the forepart before sewing the seams. Press in 
 well in the hams aliove (loint V. shape out calf well at 
 point E with not too much round or length between E 
 and D. 
 
 The figure to the left is for the stooped form with a 
 flat seat line 12-\", and T is the normal, line U and S 
 is the forward attitude. Use shaper C for this form. 
 Note. — This client has flat seat with a forward at- 
 titude, forepart usually gets short in center in front 
 opposite seat line and strikes hard on to the leg in 
 front and the pantaloon strikes hard on to the back of 
 the calf and leg draws from front of thigh to back of 
 calf as shown on the shaper. Use shaper C before 
 sewing up the seams, shape front and back to conform 
 to the shaper, stretch forepart in center and slirink in 
 the side so that center of fore[)art at waist will come 
 back at least one inch from .V to J, from a straight 
 line, and strike the line at C, then come back at least 
 ^ inch as from K to L and spring out 1 inch over 
 straight line B at bottom, .\fter the forepart is 
 shaped correctly, shape the backpart so it will conform 
 to the front. The backpart has to be shrunk in well 
 at point F and shoved back over the calf at point E. 
 then forward at D. It will be necessary to stretch the 
 outside and inside of the backparts about ,'-4 to }i inch 
 from about 2 inches below the seat line to the knee 
 notch, then shrink in the same amount over the calf on 
 the outside and inside seams. The knee notches on 
 the backpart will move down from '4 to -'s inch, so 
 as to give length at E and shortness at F to prevent 
 the draw from C to E. 
 
42 
 
 Stone's Advanced 
 Siipcrlati7't' Troiisrr Svstcui 
 
 siiAPERS. the legs, and some of our most noted trouser cutters 
 
 In order to iiroduce good fitting trousers for all use sha]iers, Lut a set f(.>r each trouser maker and 
 
 sliaiies and forms, the cutter must use e\erv precau- mark on the work ticket shape legs like shape A, B or 
 
 tion in the making as well as in the cutting, for the C". If the cutter takes this precaution he will be sure 
 
 legs of the various clients are not all the same shape, to obtain satisfactory results. Mere are the shapers 
 
 hence a whole lot lays in the making and shaping of for you to work from. 
 
Stone's Adi'aiiccd 
 Suf^rrlatk'c Troiiscr System 
 
 43 
 
 VARIATIONS. 
 
 Cutters as a rule pav less attention tn the various trousers system on eartii, tiiat produces a good fitting 
 shaped legs of their clients tlian they do to the ui)per garment for the ordinary l)uilt man, but unless you 
 
 part of the body. The cutter will note \ery carefull\' 
 the shape of his client's shoulders, blades, neck and 
 chest, yes, even the attitude of his customer, and the 
 cutter will produce a most eleguU fitting coat, liut 
 when it comes to the trousers he invariably fails in 
 producing a well balanced pair of trousers that will fit 
 and hang smoothly in the legs fur all shapes and forms. 
 If the cutter would pay a little more attention to the 
 shape of the seat and legs it would cnalile him to make 
 
 have learned all the \ariations for all the various 
 shapes and forms, you cannot produce satisfactory 
 results. 
 
 I*~ig. 2. The shapes of the liody and legs are exactly 
 the same as on Fig. No. 1, with the only exception that 
 the feet toe out and" you have overlooked this particu- 
 lar v;iriation in the formation of the pedal extremities. 
 
 Here I present Fig. No. 3, which is that of a man 
 whose legs are open and the feet turn in. Look at the 
 
 the needed changes from the normal to the abnormal three illustrations and you will at once be convinced 
 
 shai)es. I will here present three illustrations of 
 trousers. 
 
 Figure 1 is that of a m;ui with a pair of straight and 
 well shaped legs. Trousers cut by anyone in the or- 
 dinary way will produce a fit liecause the shajie of tlie 
 body and the legs is perfect and here is where the cut- 
 ter will congratulate himself on having the \'erv best 
 
 that although they all measure the same in both length 
 and width, the same cut and made trousers will not fit 
 all three different forms. 
 
 Trousers cut regularly will fit the regularly built 
 man as shown on I'ig. 1, but next we have Fig. 2, 
 which measures the same in l.ioth length and width as 
 h^ig. 1, the only difierence being that the formation of 
 
44 
 
 Stone's .'Idz'anced 
 Sii/'erhith'e Troiiscr System 
 
 tlic Ixjiic structure of liie k'L;s lia\ c an (iut\var<l turn 
 sii that the feet turn out rnul the fit^ure is called "toe 
 out." I low much he toes out from the orilinar\' hj,'ure 
 must he iletermined hy the cutter anil a notatiim made 
 of it when the measure is taken. If the cutter is care- 
 less and cuts the trousers the regular way as for I'^ig. 
 1, they will look as shown un iMg. 2. 
 
 I will now |iroceed to change the regular draft for 
 {■"ig. 2 and sIkjw Imw tu change the pattern sn that the 
 triiusers will toe out. Lay fi)re|iart and hack tngether 
 s(i that the seam will meet as per sdhd lines as shdwn 
 li_\' I )iagram 2. I'he center or crease line will 
 run on forepart as from A to I) and on hack|iart 
 as from IS to K. We now take the trousers and crease 
 the legs out at the bottom so that the crease will fall 
 on the middle of the instep. W hen this is done the 
 outside seam will come too far lo the front, so if our 
 client toes out say 1 inch, I adil to forepart 1 incli as 
 
 from 5 to d running out to nothing at point 7 and take 
 ott forepart as fnun S to 9 running out to nothing at 
 points 10 and 1 1. Then cut oli the backpart what has 
 been added to the forepart as from 3 to 6 and add to 
 the backpart from 12 to 1,> what has been cut off the 
 backpart from .^ t(i (>. The scilid lines show the regu- 
 late pattern and the broken lines the changed pattern. 
 The crease has been turned out at the bottom to follow 
 the foot and the seams changed to go with the crease. 
 ( )n drafts ,\ I show how to change the pattern from 
 the regular to the flat seated and oiien thigh figure — 
 "forward attitude." as shown in Figure ,i The 
 solid lines represent the regular pattern and the 
 broken lines the changed pattern. The fore- 
 part: Take (iff ' | inch as from (i to 1 and add 
 ■4 inch as from II t(j 2. Add 's ;it J and ' _> inch at 
 C and 5-^ as from I. to 3. Take oft 5-^ inch as from 
 K to 4 and take off '.s inch at ])oint B. The broken 
 lines show the ch.anges for the forepart — the soliil 
 lines represent the regular back[)art. Take ol'f 
 ■'4 inch as from .S to .^ and R to 6 and add this same 
 amount as from X to X. Take off -^s inch as from W 
 to 10 and add same amount as from \' to 9. Lower 
 the back ' _. inch as from T to 7. In the flat seated fig- 
 ure the distance frcim center line (J to R is less, so that 
 is the reason why I recede with the seat as from R to 
 
 and add same .amount tc> the outside as from X to 
 S. I-5v reducing the forepart as from S to 3 and R to 
 'i the crease line has been mo\ ed out as from Y to Z 
 and the crease line on fore]>art has been mined over 
 as from A to M. 
 
 Having described the changes for the flat seated fig- 
 ure, I will now gi\e the changes from the normal to 
 the figure with a prominent seat, which is the most 
 easy figure of all to fit, see diagram 4. The forepart 
 will in this case remain the same as for the normal 
 figure. The backpart is changed as |ier broken lines. 
 The distance from center line C to prominent part of 
 seat is more than on the normal figure, therefore, go 
 out from V to 2 and (i to 3 from 'j to 1 inch accord- 
 ing to the prominence of the seat and reduce the same 
 amount as from K to 4 on the side of the backpart. 
 In this case I raise the backpart '^ inch as from LI to 
 L Thus by noting the sha]>e of the form we can use 
 a common sense method of changing the pattern so 
 th.at it will fit .and cuiiform to the shape of our client's 
 bod\'. Then if the cutter will write these peculiarities 
 of the form on the work ticket, the journeyman will 
 
 1 e able to make the garment to fit and conform to the 
 figure it is intended for. 
 
 h'or l'"ig. 1 use shaper A. 
 I'or h'ig. 4 use shaper B. 
 l"or I-'ig. ,1 use shaper C. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Snpeiiativc Tronser System 
 
 45 
 
 lOi 
 
 8 
 
 c 
 
 171 
 
 2 
 
46 
 
 Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Supciiative Trouser System 
 
 47 
 
Stone's A(h'(.iiici'd 
 Siif^i-iiatkr Trouscr System 
 
 BOW-LEG CHANGE. 
 
 The heavy hhack lines iVprcsent the reguhir or nor- from crotch <lo\vn 1-lfi of seat measure at hottom, as 
 
 nial trouser pattern, the hroken lines the bow-leg from 1 to J. keeping L" and I), (i to K and F to 1, is 
 
 change. The re(|uirements of a bow-leg figure are a l-ld seat. M to L is '4 \nd\ longer for every inch 
 
 short inseani, compared with the outside length, tlie bow. in this case > | of an inch. 
 
 placing of the seams so that the crease will be in the .^wing regular i):ittern o\ er and reshape as per broken 
 center of the leg. To do this the trousers must be lines. 
 
 pressed in two sections. I'^irst from the top to the II to < ) and K to N is same amount, 01- whatever dis- 
 knee, keeping the inseam from the crotch, .^ inches tance caused by swinging forepart back 1-16 of seat 
 
 down short, next press from the knee down, keeping at bdttom. This completes forepart change. Keep 
 
 the trousers short at the ankle ."^ inches up. It is to nnrnial notches, 
 
 be remembered that the trousers are not to be shrunk 
 or stretcheil until the tailor has basted legs U|) and 
 
 , . . ,, ■ 1 ■ 1 .1 Dl.MiR.WI 2. I).\CKI'.\kT. 
 
 down, then sew m the same manner ni which they 
 
 were basted, -\fter lesjs are finished, anil the trousers ,, 1 1 1 1 ■ 1 .. -1-1 r u 
 
 . . ^ . . Ile:i\\' black line is normal pattern. I lie full amount 
 
 are ready to join, press the desired shape, but not until r , ' , , ^i 1 1 » \' 1 ^ r 
 
 •' J ' ' of b(]\v IS pilaced mi the back])art. Normal center hue 
 
 then. -1 , , 
 
 IS line J-,1. 
 
 TA 1 T- -^ t" ^' is 3 inches, full amount of Ijow. 
 
 Di.\(;k.\m 1. I-(iKi-:r.\RT. 
 
 L til .\ and \ to Z is .1 inches., full amount of liow, 
 
 (Client llemg ,1 Inches I!ow-legs), w . 1. 1 c . -r ■ ^ 11 ■ ■ 
 
 - W to K and .S to I is amount caused bv swinging 
 
 Hea\v black line is normal p litern. l.engtben in- backpart over at bottom ,1 inches. 
 
 seam and shorten outside b\ swinging forepart T to Z is ' _. inch longer than from S to V. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
 49 
 
50 
 
 Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouser SystcDi 
 
 PEG-TOP CHANGE. 
 
 Peg-top trousers should fit smooth anjuml waist ami 
 seat. The drapery for peg-tops sIkiuIiI be gracefully 
 draped on the outside seam from the hip to nothing at 
 the bottom. What are the requirements for peg-top 
 trousers? First, an easy stride, so as not to draw hip 
 drapery into the seat and stride. The stride must be 
 sufficiently long to permit the drai)ery to remain at the 
 sides. Secondly, a short inseani and a lung (lutside 
 seam must be had. Thirdly, a short backpart, so as 
 to take out any bagging or falling <ln\vn of the seat, 
 which is anything but graceful. 
 
 Dl.'\GR.'\M 3. Fi)REP.\RT. 
 
 The hea\y black lines represent the regular pattern 
 to be changed. The dash lines represent the change. 
 Straighten the inseam by swinging forepart over as 
 from H to M, and G to L ^4 of an inch, keeping crotch 
 jioint C. F, to J is amount gained by swinging over 
 inseam line. 
 
 D to I is 1 inch, or whatever amount of drapery for 
 peg is desired. < )ne inch makes a good average peg- 
 top. Draw a straight line from M to I. 
 Shape outside seam from B to I. F to K is ' , inch 
 down to M. This completes change of forepart. 
 
 l)|A<a<,\M 4. B,\CKPART. 
 
 The changes on the backpart are as follows : 
 Straighten inseam as from 5 to 4 and 2 to 3, -)4 inch, 
 
 same amount as you straighten forepart. 
 \' to W is ' 2 inch. 
 X to Z is I _. inch. 
 .Shape inseam from W to Z to 3. 
 T to U is I J inch. 
 
 .Straighten seat by going out '4 inch, as from N to Q. 
 Shaping from waist jxiint to U 'j inch and advancing 
 
 waist line, as from N to O "4 inch, this straightens 
 
 seat '4 inch, thereby making a short backpart. 
 Y to I is ' J inch. R to .S is 1 inch. 
 ( ) to P is '4 inch, same amount as you adxance from 
 
 N to Q. 
 Shape from P to .S to I down to 4. 
 This completes change for peg-top trousers. 
 Points 6, 7, S and 9 represent outlets on backpart. The 
 
 reason for this iIlustr;ition is that many cutters, 
 
 afraid tli.at the trousers won't fit, leave tremendous 
 
 outlets in seat and crotch. 
 6 to S is 3 inches. 
 ■}-4 inch is alloweil .'it •' and .':j inch is allowed at 6 and 
 
 7. 
 Taper your outlet from 9 down to nothing at 8. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
 51 
 
52 
 
 Stone's Advanced 
 Superlative Troiiscr System 
 
 STONE'S RELIABLE BLOCK PATTERNS. 
 
 These patterns are strictl)- up-tu 
 which we Inave l)een using for years, 
 country. 
 
 (late in style and outline. 
 ( )ur patterns are used 1; 
 
 They are tested patterns, the principles of 
 ■ the hest tailors and clothiers all over the 
 
 P.\TTF,KNS For Men's ( "i.XKM RNTS. 
 
 S. B. Frock Coat. Each $1.2.^ Sizes 34 
 
 S. B. Sack Coat. Each 1 .00 
 
 D. B. Sack Coat. Each 100 
 
 D. B. Frock Coat. Each 1 .30 
 
 Dress Coat. Each 1 -^O 
 
 S. B. Overcoat. Each 1-30 
 
 D. B. ( )vercoat. Each 1 -SO 
 
 Yoked ( )vercoat. Each.... 
 Raglan ( )vercoat. Each. . . . 
 
 Kimono Coats. Each 
 
 Inverness Overcoats. Each. 
 Paletots, Paddocks. Each.. 
 
 S. B. Vest. Each 
 
 Dress "V^est. Each 
 
 D. B. Vest. Each 
 
 Trousers. Each 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.50 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 .75 
 
 .75 
 
 .75 
 
 .75 
 
 
 
 
 Block T 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 I'UII 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 I'uU 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Inill 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Inill 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 34 
 
 to 
 
 43. 
 
 Full 
 
 Sizes 
 
 30 
 
 to 
 
 42. 
 
 Full 
 
 ATTERNs In Sets. 
 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 set. 
 
 .$10.00 
 
 . 10.00 
 
 . 10.00 
 
 . 12.00 
 
 . 12.00 
 
 . 13.00 
 
 . 13.00 
 
 . 16.00 
 
 . 16.00 
 
 . 18.00 
 
 . 16.00 
 
 . 16.00 
 
 . 7.00 
 
 . 8.00 
 
 . 8.00 
 
 . 9.00 
 
 Clerical Coats. Each l-?0 
 
 Knights Templar Coats. Each 1-50 
 
 Hoods. Each 
 
 Capes. Each 
 
 Convertilile Collars. Each. . 
 
 Riding Breeches. Each 
 
 Riding Leggings. Each 
 
 Bicycle Pants, Plain. Ivach 
 Bicycle Pants. Cuff 
 
 Each. 
 
 50 
 1.00 
 
 ..^0 
 1.50 
 
 .75 
 
 .75 
 1.00 
 
 Required Measurements. 
 Breast measure taken from the l)ack close up under 
 the arms, just so tape slips around the body, not 
 
 tight. 
 
 Note.— Take breast measure the same always, and 
 if loose fit is desired, mention it. 
 
 Waist measure taken around natural waist line m 
 the same manner as the breast. If a loose lit is de- 
 sired, don't alter the measure or metliod. but mention 
 the fact. 
 
 Seat measure taken over the prominent part of the 
 seat, in the same manner as the breast and waist meas- 
 ures are taken. 
 
 Natural waist length, fashionable waist length, seat 
 length, full length of garment, and sleeve length. 
 
 \'est and trouser measures in the regular manner. 
 
 Send either the short or long measures as follows, 
 or both if desired. 
 
 Cutters' Comhination Set of Patterns. 
 
 S. B. Frock Coat, size 34 to 43 
 
 D. B. Frock Coat, size 34 to 43 
 
 S. B. Sack Coat, size 34 to 43 
 
 S. B. ( )vercoat. size 34 to 43 
 
 S. B. Vest, size 34 to 43 
 
 Trousers, size ( waist ) 30 to 42 
 
 Coml)iiiation Im-ouIs for D. B. Sack Coat $40.00 
 
 Coml)inatiiin iM-onts for D. B. Overcoats 40.00 
 
 Combination Fronts for D. B. Ve.sts 40.00 
 
 Price, $40.00 
 
 S. B. Frock Coat, size 34 to 43 
 
 S. B. Sack Coat, size 34 to 43 
 
 S. B. \'est, size 34 to 43 
 
 Price, $20.00. 
 
 Shoulder Measures. 
 Strap, upper shoulder. 
 Lower shoulder, back 
 
 width. 
 
 Short Measures. 
 Depth of scye. strap, 
 < )ver shoulder, closing. 
 Blade, arm scye circum 
 
 ference. 
 
 Or Any Other Proof Measures. 
 
 For all garments always give height, collar size, and 
 a clear description of customer. Descriptive dispro- 
 portions, degres of deformation, ( such as taught by 
 the Chicago College of Garment Cutting, is perfection 
 personified). .\lways give degrees of stoo|), erect, 
 slope or scjuare long or short neck, one shoulder low, 
 etc. 
 
 For < )vercoats. — Always mention whether the meas- 
 ures are taken over the vest or o\er the under coat. 
 If no mention is made as to how the measures are 
 taken, it is presumed the measures are taken over the 
 vest. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Stipcrlatk'e Trouser System 
 
 PATTERNS FOR LADIES' GARMENTS. 
 
 Basque, bust. Each $1.00 
 
 Jackets, bust. Each 1 .00 
 
 D. B. Reefer, bust. Each 1.00 
 
 Cutaway Coat, bust. Each 1 .00 
 
 D. B. Frock, bust. Each 1.23 
 
 D. B. Ulster, bust. Each 1.23 
 
 D. B. Vest, bust. Each 30 
 
 Costume Skirt. Each 73 
 
 Riding Skirt. Each 1.30 
 
 Divided Riding Skirt. Each 1.30 
 
 Bicycle Skirt. Each 73 
 
 Riding Breeches. Each 7}< 
 
 Leggings. Each 23 
 
 Golf Capes, bust. Each 73 
 
 Double Capes, bust. Each 1.00 
 
 Single Sleeves. Each 30 
 
 .'^izes 32 to 42 
 Sizes 32 to 42 
 Sizes il to 42, 
 Sizes 32 to 42, 
 Sizes 2t2 to 42, 
 Sizes 32 to 42 
 Sizes 32 to 42 
 Waist 20 to i2 
 Waist 20 to i2 
 Waist 20 to i2 
 Waist 20 to ^2 
 
 Full set $10.00 
 
 Full set 10.00 
 
 Full set 10.00 
 
 Full set 10.00 
 
 Full set 12.00 
 
 Full set 12.00 
 
 Full set 3.00 
 
 Full set 10.00 
 
 Full set 10.00 
 
 Full set 7.30 
 
 Full set 7.30 
 
 .All these patterns are cut to order, single or in sets, 
 at regular prices. 
 
 All special patterns according to measures are cut 
 from drafting Manila paper only, and at prices quoted 
 in the first column of this price list. Light weight 
 Manila patterns furnished only in regular sizes. 
 
 All orders for patterns must be accompanied by 
 cash remittance of at least 50 per cent of the amount 
 ordered to receive attention. All orders executed pro 
 mptly. 
 
 SPECIAL PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE. 
 
 Me-^iSUREMENTS. 
 
 Length of waist and full length of garment; the 
 under-arm length from arm scye to small of waist ; the 
 front length from center of back at neck to largest 
 part of bust and down to waist in front. Length of 
 sleeve should be taken with a square under the arm to 
 wrist. Take the size of sleeve at elbow and at hand. 
 Take bust measure easy and waist snug, and hip easy. 
 If the garment is to button up to the neck, the size of 
 the neck must be given. For skirts, take front, side 
 and back lengths and waist, also hip measure. In 
 ordering skirt patterns, state what width goods is to 
 be used, as the gores must be cut accordingly. 
 
 THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 
 
 Security Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 
54 Stone's Advanced 
 
 Superlative Trouser System 
 
 A VALUABLE ASSET 
 
 and ESSENTIAL PART OF 
 AN EFFICIENT EQUIPMENT 
 
 PUBLICATIONS 
 
 Stone's Scientific System of Grading. 
 
 In book form $10.00 
 
 Grading Tools 5.00 
 
 Stone's Anatomical Divisions of the Human Form and 
 Form Growth from Birth to Manhood and Womanhood. 
 
 In book form 10.00 
 
 Stone's Advanced Coat and Vest System. 
 
 In book form 10.00 
 
 Stone's Advanced Trouser System. 
 
 In book form 7.00 
 
 Stone's System of Cutting Ladies' (Garments. 
 
 In book form 10.00 
 
 Stone's Shirt and Drawer System. 
 
 In book form 3.00 
 
 The Practical Cutter and Tailor. 
 
 Chuck full of Practical Methods in Cutting, published monthly. 
 
 Per year $3.00 
 
 Address all orders and send remittances to 
 
 THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 
 
 SECURITY BUILDING CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
Stone's Advanced 
 Supciiath'c Tronscr System 
 
 55 
 
 ii2£;iJ::T T I^ N G ^ • S C 1 1;, fiO Lilif 
 
 
 CHICAGO, 
 
 TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION 
 
 TO BE PAID IN ADVANCF 
 
 MEN'S GARMENTS 
 
 Preliminary course in drafting by proportions from heiglits 
 and widths : 
 
 Coats alone $ 30.00 
 
 Vests alone 20.00 
 
 Trousers alone 20.00 
 
 Coats, Vests and Trousers together 50.00 
 
 Advanced course in drafting coats and vests hy shoulder 
 measure method : 
 
 Coats alone $ 30.00 
 
 Vests alone 20.00 
 
 Trousers by actual measure 20.00 
 
 Coals. Vests a.id Trousers together 50.00 
 
 Ad\anced course in drafting coats, vests and trousers by the 
 short measure method : 
 
 Costs alone $ 30.00 
 
 Vests alone 20.00 
 
 Trousers by actual measure 20.00 
 
 Coats. V<-t9 and Trousers together 50.00 
 
 Mixed courses : Proportions, shoulder measure and short 
 measure methods combined : 
 
 Coats alone $ 50.00 
 
 Cca;s and Vests together 75.00 
 
 Coats, Vests and Trousers 100.00 
 
 How to Apply Individuality in Cutting 25.00 
 
 How to Make up Garments $15 to 25.00 
 
 Practical Course : Laying patterns on the cloth, cutting 
 
 the goods, trimming up of garments and trving on.... 50.00 
 
 Shirts '. 25.00 
 
 Drawers 15.00 
 
 Overalls 15 00 
 
 Jumpers 20.00 
 
 Canvas Coats 25.00 
 
 Hunting Coats 25.00 
 
 Military Garments 50.00 
 
 Capes, Hoods. Leggins and Gaiters 50.00 
 
 Riding Breeches 25.00 
 
 Shifting Block Patterns, short course 25.00 
 
 Shifting Block Patterns, full course 50.00 
 
 Spacing 25.00 
 
 Grading 50.00 
 
 Anatomical divisions and heights and widths 50.00 
 
 Form Growth for Sizing Patterns 50.00 
 
 Copying Garments 25.00 
 
 Laying Patterns and Marking on Cloth 50.00 
 
 Special mixed courses at special prices. 
 
 I L L I IN O I S 
 
 LADIES' GARMENTS 
 
 Preliminary Course: Proportionate Method, drafting from 
 heights and widths : 
 
 Dress Waists $ 15.00 
 
 Shirt Waists 15.00 
 
 Blouses 15.00 
 
 Jackets 15.00 
 
 Box Coats 15.00 
 
 Capes 10.00 
 
 Skirts 15,00 
 
 Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts 
 
 together 50.00 
 
 Advanced Courses: Drafting by proportion and actual meas- 
 ure methods: 
 
 Dress Waists $ 25.00 
 
 Shirt Waists 25,00 
 
 Blouses 25,00 
 
 Jackets , 25,00 
 
 Box Coats 25.00 
 
 Capes 15.00 
 
 Skirts by actual measure 25.00 
 
 Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts 
 
 together 50.00 
 
 RIDING HABITS 
 
 Jackets $ 25.00 
 
 Side Saddle Riding Skirts 25.00 
 
 Divided Skirts 15.00 
 
 Riding Breeches 25.00 
 
 Gaiters and Leggins 15.00 
 
 Caps 10.00 
 
 UNDERWEAR 
 
 Night Robes $ 25.00 
 
 Chemises 25.00 
 
 Drawers 20.00 
 
 Corset Covers 20 00 
 
 Under Skirts 15.00 
 
 Drop Skirts 15.00 
 
 Spacing 25.00 
 
 Grading 50.00 
 
 Anatomical divisions of heights and widths 50.00 
 
 Form Growth for Sizing Patterns 50.00 
 
 Copying Garments 25.00 
 
 Special mixed courses at special prices. 
 
 FUR GARMENTS 
 
 Drafting by proportion from heights and widths: 
 
 Jackets and Coats $ 30.00 
 
 Capes and Collarettes 25.00 
 
 Jackets. Coats, Capes and Collarettes together 50.00 
 
22 1913