^.^BERTY MANUAL^ 
 
 of Chicken f-^* 
 
 
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 THE,<JBERTY 7>UBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 ROCHESTER , NEW YORK 
 
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 tU 20 1919 
 ©CI.A511958 
 
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 'Dedicated 
 
 TO THE BETTERMENT OF 
 POULTRY-RAISING AS A 
 PROFITABLE UNDERTAKING 
 
roword 
 
 -JM?\ ''Vouitryman^ 
 '' Il's lip to Tou!'' 
 
 IT'S up to you to take the 
 Liberty Manual of Chickens 
 and make it earn. 
 
 It's up to you to earnestly 
 apply methods, formulas and 
 equipment that produce. 
 
 The thought of failure must 
 not be tolerated. Prepare 
 yourself right now for work. 
 Chickens must be cared for 
 systematically and intelli- 
 gently. You are dealing with 
 nature. Treat poultry as their 
 chicken natures require and 
 your reward will be success. 
 
 Successful directions simph written 
 
 Tel! you what to do, 
 The number of dollars earned, Mr. Reader, 
 
 Depends in the main upon YOU. 
 
^orea 
 
 OITRK'^rii — (on^ifnted 
 
 Right now, the world needs 
 practical information put up 
 in a way that the majority can 
 understand and use profitably. 
 
 Thejr is one thing certain — 
 
 The Poultryman now in business, 
 The live wire looking tor a business, 
 The Farmer, or 
 
 The fellow with a tew in the back- 
 yard. 
 
 You, if you're interested 
 earnestly in poultry, cannot 
 help but profit by the successes 
 of others. That's what you 
 have on the following pages — 
 methods of success. Ask 
 yourself this question: "What 
 am I going to do with them?" 
 If the stuff's in you the answer 
 will be Succeed. 
 
Table of Contents 
 
 The Commercial Hex ii-13 
 
 From Egg to Laying Pullet ^3-3^ 
 
 Selecting Hatching Eggs 13-16 
 
 When to Hatch 17 
 
 Incubation 17-21 
 
 Shipping Baby Chicks 21-22 
 
 Brooding 22-28 
 
 Brooder House, Specifications and Descrip- 
 tion 23-27 
 
 Feeding Baby Chicks ~^-33 
 
 Chick Yard or Run 23 
 
 Water Supply 33-34 
 
 Litter for Chicks and Birds Matured . . 34-35 
 
 Broilers 35-3^ 
 
 Laving House for from 80 to 100 Birds 
 
 Specifications 37-45 
 
 Feeding the Layers 45-46 
 
 Culling, Sorting and Selecting .... 47-50 
 
 Culling Layers 48 
 
 Starting Point for THE Beginner . . . 51-52 
 
 Winter Eggs 5-^-53 
 
 Their Chick Natures 53-5^ 
 
 Broodiness 56-57 
 
 Breeding and Mating 59-6i 
 
 Barnyard Flock 61-63 
 
 Backyard T\\ elve 64-66 
 
Table of Contents — Continued 
 
 Diseases and Remedies 66-70 
 
 Lice and Mites 66 
 
 R(nip 67 
 
 White Diarrhoea 68 
 
 Crop Bounci 69 
 
 Miscellaneous Points Summarized . . . 7°-73 
 
 Records 7^ 
 
 I'ARM ro Secure and Hints ro Hei.i" Kuv It 73-77 
 
 Kind of Soil 74 
 
 Advantage of Trees 74 
 
 I'sing Manure 75 
 
 Raising Feed 7" 
 
 Facts and Figures ....%..... 77-^^4 
 
 First "^'ear to Sixth '^'ear 81-84 
 
o 
 
 peff 
 
 manual of ChiekenA 
 
 ^ 
 
for Profitable Pouilin ^teinq 
 
 The Commercial Hen 
 
 /. An Egg Producer 
 2. A Meat Producer 
 
 If you are about to go into the poultry 
 business for the money you can make out ot 
 it, or if you are now in the business for the 
 same reason, do not select show birds and 
 expect that fine feathers mean egg produc- 
 tion. Very seldom do we find such a com- 
 bination. The breed selected must be of a 
 strain with an egg-laying record back of it. 
 Such birds are not only strong and healthy, 
 but they are naturally vigorous and active. 
 The best layers are the first ones up and the 
 last ones to roost. They are always scratch- 
 ing around supplying themselves with the 
 very food and exercise most necessary to 
 large egg production. 
 
 Right here let us ask a very frank question. 
 Are you after egg production, meat, or both? 
 The best way to determine what you most 
 desire is to study the market conditions sur- 
 rounding you. If you are in a section where 
 fancy prices are paid for meat, then make 
 your choice of breeds appropriate. Pick out 
 a heavy breed that will produce meat and 
 therefore pay you best. Cater to the market. 
 Produce eggs, if eggs pay better than meat. 
 It is almost a golden rule, by the way, that egg 
 production pays. You cannot go far astray 
 if you decide on a good laying strain of the 
 
/^ 
 
 manual of ChickenA 
 
 breed you prefer. Vov eggs and meat both, 
 a good laying strain of one of the heavier 
 breeds should be sought. When going in for 
 egg production especially, it is best to choose 
 one of the lighter and more active breeds. 
 Brown eggs bring high prices in some places 
 and white ones pay big in others. Determine 
 this choice ot color in eggs bv the market 
 available to \'ou and raise accordingly. 
 Around Boston we are told brown eggs are 
 in great demand while in Central New "^'ork 
 State white eggs bring the ianc\' prices. 
 
 From a dolhir and cents standpoint, White 
 Leghorns cannot be surpassed as egg pro- 
 ducers, rhev produce large eggs and more 
 of them with a minimum of feed. A maxi- 
 mum percentage of all food value goes to the 
 production of eggs instead of to fat, and egg 
 production is in the majority of cases, the 
 paying end of a commercial flock. White 
 Leghorns are great foragers, cutting down 
 feed consumption at least 1-3 as compared 
 with birds of same breed confined. Indeed 
 they are better foragers than other breeds. 
 It is less trouble keeping the breed perfect. 
 Birds are true to color. Meat is white and 
 brings from |.o2 to $.05 more a pound in the 
 best markets, although the amount of meat 
 per bird is considerably less than with heavier 
 breeds. Bones are small. It is easier to 
 separate the sexes at an earh' age than with 
 other breeds. More birds may be kept per 
 house of given floor space. Last, but not 
 
for 'Profitable Poultri) ^RciiMnq 
 
 least, high vitality is a White Leghorn charac- 
 teristic. 
 
 Up to this point we have considered the 
 commercial hen in units of many rather than 
 few, as a matter of business, as a matter oi 
 livelihood. If you intend to raise a few birds 
 in the back yard for the sake of a few fresh 
 eggs and an occasional broiler, a good laying 
 strain of almost any breed will be satisfac- 
 tory. Changing breeds is many times very 
 expensive, and therefore unprofitable, when 
 large flocks are affected. With the back 
 yard twelve, however, it is mainly up to the 
 pleasure of the poultryman. You can change 
 profitably and find pleasure in the variety. 
 
 From Egg to Laying Pullet 
 
 A section devoted to correct formulas and 
 complete methods, accurately outlined in 
 detail for the guidance of any and all persons 
 interested in hens, few or many, as a prac- 
 tical investment. 
 
 Selecti)ig the Halchhig Egg. 
 
 W^hen you buy eggs from a breeder you are 
 of course, dependent to a great extent upon 
 his honesty and ability. Be a breeder your- 
 self as far as knowledge is concerned. Be 
 able to tell just what you want. Eggs are 
 eggs, that is true, but when they hatch you 
 may not get at all what you want or expect. 
 Avoid uncertainty as much as possible and 
 the almost sure disappointment which fol- 
 lows. When vou put vour money and time 
 
JJte'". 
 
 'f 
 
 MTlonual of Chieken^ 
 
 into the poultr\' game yoii are entitled to 
 results. If you want an egg-laying strain of 
 meaty birds, let the breeder know that. If 
 you want single comb White Leghorns that 
 breed all white, don't fail to explain, and, 
 above all, be sure you start a strain for which 
 you have a near market. 
 
 Hatching eggs should come from bestbreed- 
 ingstock, andifyou desire large eggproduction 
 they should come from the very best layers. 
 
 Hatching eggs should be large as possible but 
 uniform in size and color. Not deformed, i. e., 
 cracked, thin shelled or speckled (see page 15) 
 when held up to light. Must be fresh, not over 
 a week old, and must be turned at least once 
 a day before placing same in incubator. /Al- 
 ways keep in darkened room of even tem- 
 perature below 70 degrees Fahrenheit, until 
 ready for incubator. Room not too moist 
 or too dry. A cellar that is not damp is 
 generally suitable. 
 
 Eggs from seven days to two weeks old 
 may hatch well, but the vitality of an egg 
 diminishes so rapidly after the sixth day 
 that the chicks hatched from eggs of that age 
 are not as strong as they would have been, 
 if the same eggs had been set earlier. At the 
 best the death rate among chicks is high. 
 If eggs not over seven days old, therefore, 
 tend to lower the death rate, let's use such 
 eggs for hatching and give the chicks all the 
 strength naturally coming to them. They 
 will need it every bit. 
 
for 'Profitabl e Po ultrii ^feii/jng 
 
/K 
 
 
fot' 'Profitable Poultry T^i4inq 
 
 If'hcii to Hatch 
 
 Sprints; is the natural time for the setting of 
 eggs and the hatching o\ chicks. March, 
 April and May is the recognized season. 
 Chicks hatched during these months begin 
 laying in the fall. Chicks hatched later are 
 liable not to lav until the following spring. 
 The lighter breeds, such as Leghorns, may 
 be hatched later than the heavier breeds, 
 and yet have time to reach matin-itv before 
 winter. 
 
 luciihatioii 
 
 It might be truthfully said that nature's 
 way of hatching by means of the mother hen 
 is the best. For one or two units of from 
 12 to 1 6 eggs each, it is, providing the hen is 
 quiet, can spread herself sufficientlv to keep 
 the eggs warm, and is free from lice and 
 mites. The small flock in the back yard, or 
 even the farmer's flock ot average si/e, can 
 be reinforced by this natural method. When 
 60 or more eggs are to be hatched, however, 
 the modern commercial mother, known as the 
 "incubator," does the job on a big and 
 paying basis. 
 
 For a setting of from 60 to 400 eggs best 
 results are obtained with hot air incubators 
 similar to the "Prairie State." For larger 
 settings the "Hall" and other good hot water 
 incubators prove most efficient. When the 
 manufacturer tells you that his machine can 
 be operated anywhere, regardless of outside 
 
fiieff 
 
 f ITlanual of ^ Chiekei i4 
 
 temperature, etc., just disregard him. The best 
 incubator made is always more efficient if it is 
 placed in a well sealed cellar with plenty of 
 ventilation where the temperature varies but 
 
 J^(^x^grfl^. 1 
 
 1 
 
 little, keeping it cool in summer and warm 
 in winter. External heat in that cellar is not 
 necessary if the place is properly built. 
 i8 
 
for "Profitable Poultru Ihximcj 
 
 One of the most successful incubator cellars 
 in the country, from the stancipointof strong, 
 healthy chicks and high percentage (up to 
 90 and even above) hatches, had a con- 
 crete bottom about six feet below ground 
 level laid on cinders. The walls were con- 
 crete blocks run up to about two feet above 
 ground, giving an eight foot depth to the 
 cellar. There were three windows, one each 
 on three sides, each about cellar window size, 
 and they were hinged at the bottom so that 
 air would not be directed down on to the in- 
 cubator. Frosted glass or shades kept out 
 the brightest glare of the sun (burlap cur- 
 tains could be used tor the purpose), and the 
 entire inside was whitewashed for cleanli- 
 ness. Cleanliness is all important through- 
 out the entire process of chicken raising. 
 
 Suppose now, we turn to the handling of 
 an incubator. 
 
 A constant temperature of 103 degrees 
 (not over 105 degrees) until chicks are 
 hatched is verv important. After eggs are 
 placed in machine they should be turned 
 starting with the morning of the second day 
 at 7 A. M. again at 7 p. m, of the same day, 
 and twice daily thereafter at the same hours 
 until eggs begin to pip or break through the 
 shell. Incubator doors must be kept closed 
 atter eggs begin to pip until chicks are 
 thoroughly dry. Leghorn eggs will hatch in 
 20 davs. Heavier breeds in 21 davs. 
 
peff 
 
 manuQl of Chicken^ 
 
 Kggs should be rested twice during the 
 period oF incubation; at the end of the seventh 
 day and again at the end of the fourteenth 
 day. A high powered electric bulb held 
 beneath the egg tray answers the purpose. 
 Eggs entirely transparent at the seventh day 
 testing are germless and should be removed. 
 The appearance of a spider-like formation 
 indicates the strong healthy germ. Dead 
 germs may be recognized by a broken circle. 
 At the end of the fourteenth day all eggs 
 appearing black should be placed back in 
 incubator. Only those entirely transparent 
 to be removed. Care should be exercised 
 not to chill eggs. Thev should be replaced 
 in incubator as c]uickly as possible. 
 
 One of the most difficult things for the 
 average poultryman to appreciate is the 
 sensitiveness of either growing germ or baby 
 chick. The ends of the fingers are many 
 times cold. By rolling the eggs with the 
 warm palm of the hand, finger tips thrown 
 up, the possibility of shock by chilling is not 
 only lessened but the turning of eggs can be 
 accomplished with greater speed and they 
 can be replaced in the incubator quicker and 
 with less exposure. 
 
 To correctlv govern the temperature in 
 the incubator a thermometer should be 
 placed in each compartment with the bulb 
 on a level with the tops of the eggs. Do not, 
 however, let the eggs come in contact with 
 this bulb, (jrowing germs gi^'e oft heat and 
 
for Profttable Poultni T^k^tnq 
 
 contact with the thermometer makes its 
 registry unreliable. Another point to guard 
 against is the use ot mineral water in the hot 
 water pipes of the hot water incubator. 
 Always use rain water, and the degree ol 
 variation in temperature will not increase 
 so rapidly with the age of the incubator. 
 
 When the chicks are thoroughly dry and 
 the hatch is ready for transfer to the brooder 
 use regular chick box warmed slightly to 
 avoid chilling. After chicks have been re- 
 moved and incubator carefully cleaned spray 
 each compartment with "Zenoleum" (ten 
 parts water to one part Zenoleum). 
 
 Shipping Baby Chicks 
 
 Make shipments ot day old chicks as 
 soon as they are thoroughly dry. Imme- 
 diate shipments are necessary, because food 
 
 is not required tor three days, and chicks 
 shipped by express (always ship by express) 
 have usually reached their destination before 
 three days are up. 
 
 A chick will live 72 hoin-s without tood 
 because it absorbs the egg yolk during that 
 period. In fact food should never be given 
 chicks before 48 hours, preferably not until 
 ~2 hours have expired. 
 
pett^ 
 
 lll anual of' ChiekenA ; 
 
 Shipments are made by means of a regular 
 chick box purchased at any poultry supply 
 house, or a cardboard box about i6 inches 
 square and 5 inches high. A box of this 
 size will accommodate 50 chicks. To give 
 them air punch i 2 half inch holes in the sides, 
 not in the cover. See that the inside space is 
 divided by a partition in the middle. 2; 
 chicks to one compartment are enough. Box 
 should also be corrugated or roughened on 
 the bottom so chicks will not slide around. 
 But do not use straw or any other bedding in 
 the box. When transferring chicks from 
 incubator to box see that box is slightly 
 warmed so as not to chill them. More chicks 
 die from chilling than from any other cause. 
 Always mark "Baby Chicks" plainly on the 
 box. Expressmen and others responsible 
 for them en route will then give them special 
 care in handling. 
 
 Brooding 
 
 Coal burning brooder stoves are most 
 efficient and least expensive for a commercial 
 farm. Small hatches of from 15 to 20 chicks 
 could be accommodated, but the cost of coal 
 consumed and the size of house necessary to 
 shelter such a brooder would not be war- 
 ranted. For chicks in lots ot less than 50 the 
 use of mother hens is more practical and 
 economical. Broody hens can be bought in 
 the spring for early hatches for $1.50. A 
 common barrel placed on its side with a little 
 
for 'Profitable ^pQijitrij l^o ' vAnq 
 
 straw at the hack makes an excellent house 
 when placed in a dry spot (see page 64). 
 
 For chicks in lots ot h'om 50 to 350 the coal 
 burning brooder stove and the type of house 
 illustrated herewith prove most satisfactory. 
 It is possible to house 500 chicks in this 
 type of building, but positively not advisable. 
 
 Two Brooder Houses 
 
 Brooder House Speeificat'wns and Description 
 
 Floor 8 ft. X I 2 ft. of hard wood, tightly 
 matched so leed won't lodge in cracks 
 and get moldy. A coat of paint on 
 the floor makes it easier to clean. 
 
 Rear 4 ft. 6 in. high. Front 6 ft. 6 in. 
 Rear and two ends tightly matched to 
 prohibit drafts. 2 ply tar paper is used 
 to excellent advantage as an outside wall 
 covering. Through its use you make 
 
j^# 
 
 ITlanuQl of Chieken^ 
 
 sure that all seams are sealed and the 
 chickens, therefore, well protected. 
 
 Door in middle of front hung so that base 
 comes below floor level. A yi in. piece, 
 8 in. wide, fitted against the sill, full width 
 of door will prevent all floor drafts. 
 
 Two glass windows — one on either side of 
 door at front of house. 
 
 Air vents — Above both windows same 
 width as window and 8 in. high. Vents 
 covered with cheese cloth curtain, hinged 
 inside. 
 
 Slides or runners 4 in. x 6 in. each, raising 
 house from ground, keeping it dry, free 
 from rats and making it easily movable. 
 
 Roosts should not be found in houses for 
 small chicks until chicks are at least 8 weeks 
 old. Better not until 10 or 12 weeks old. 
 A roost of any description will cripple or bend 
 the breast bone, which bone receives the 
 weight of the bird when roosting. 
 
 Roosts should be made of material at 
 least i>^ in. in width and without sharp 
 edges. A slightly rounded effect is best. 
 Never use a narrow roost either with chicks 
 or old birds. Deformities are sure to occur. 
 
 Chicks should be transferred from incu- 
 bator to brooder by means of warmed box 
 same as that described under "Shipping 
 Babv Chicks." For best results the tem- 
 perature around the brooder should not fall 
 below 90 degrees or run above 120 degrees 
 
 -4 
 
for IProfitablePouitrn T^i^iriq 
 
 the first day. This temperature can grad- 
 ually be reduced until generally at the end 
 of eight weeks no heat is needed. A cold 
 climate or damp rainy season may require 
 heat for a longer period. 
 
 Interior of Brooder House showing coal burning brooder stove 
 hover and ijuard. 
 
ITIanual of (^hxeken^ 
 
 In teaching baby chicks that warmth is 
 to be found under the brooder it has been 
 found necessary to erect a temporary guard 
 or fence in the house, forcing them to stay 
 near the stove. Boards or stiff roofing paper 
 about lo inches in width may be stood on 
 edge encircHng the stove in an arc about 
 8 inches greater in diameter than the 
 hover. This guard can safely be removed 
 at the end of the third day. 
 
 Hot coals shaken into the base of the coal 
 burning brooder stove sometimes generate a 
 heat too intense for the chicks that huddle up 
 close. By placing a foundation of bricks 
 under the stove, just one laver (two inches) 
 thick so they don't extend out from the 
 base, but just come flush, such excess heat is 
 
for l^rofitable Poultrn 'te>'tncj 
 
 dispensed with. Bricks, stove, hover and 
 guard are all shown on page 25. 
 
 Great care should be given the stove pipe 
 where it passes through the roof. First on 
 account of fire, second on account of water. 
 Two extremes it would seem, but both must 
 be guarded against. Cut the hole in the roof 
 at least two inches larger in diameter than 
 the stovepipe. Anchor the pipe in the centre 
 by means of a funnel-shaped piece of tin with 
 the hole in the small end just large enough to 
 slide down over the pipe. Wedge a piece of 
 asbestos between pipe and tin. Tack edges 
 of large opening of funnel-shaped tin to the 
 roof and paint seams with coal tar. This 
 construction is not only fire proof, but the 
 heaviest downpour of rain can not leak in. 
 Remember chicks must be kept dry and warm. 
 
 If you will now notice the hover, page 25, 
 you will notice a flange or curtain of canvas 
 hanging from its outer edge. When the 
 hover is lowered, this curtain falls about 
 four inches inside the guard and should be 
 so arranged that when at rest it hangs about 
 one and a half inches from the floor. A 
 hand hole in the hover permits ol adjust- 
 ments on the stove without raising the hover 
 and changing the temperature. A suspension 
 rope strung through two pulleys, one directly 
 above the stove and the other at the front of 
 the house by the door, enables the operator 
 to raise the hover a little each day until 
 chicks are old enough to take it away entirely. 
 
hi 
 
 fJTlQnual of Chieken^ 
 
 Forlitter,see page34. Remember it is never 
 advisable to put 500 chicks under one hover. 
 3^0 ought to be the maximum for an expert; 
 considerably less than that for an amateur. 
 
 Feeding Baby (thicks 
 
 Ahtr chicks are at least 48 hours old, and 
 when they show a strong desire to eat, com- 
 mon rolled oats should be sprinkled dry 5 
 times a day on glazed wrapping paper spread 
 out on the litter. This enables chicks to 
 readily see it. Give them as much rolled 
 oats as they will clean up in 10 minutes. 
 Do not give chicks any water the first day of 
 feeding, nothing but warm sour milk. The 
 lactic acid in the milk tends to overcome 
 
 #" 
 
 ^ 
 
 (Jlass Chick Fountain tor either water or sour skim milk 
 28 
 
for "ProfitQ bl ePQuitai '^foi^inq 
 
 white diarrhoea. As much milk as they will 
 drink should be kept before them. Always 
 put milk in glass dishes as lactic acid acts on 
 tin or other metals forming a deadly poison. 
 
 SECOND DAY 
 
 In place oi rolled oats, five feedings ot a 
 mixture composed of 
 
 lo lbs. ot bread crumbs, 
 lo lbs. of middlings, 
 3 lbs. of beef scrap, 
 1 lb. of bone meal, 
 lo lbs. of bran, 
 moistened but not soaked with sour skim 
 milk, should be spread on the papers. As 
 much of this mixture as chicks will clean up 
 in lo minutes. 
 
 Important. — Chicks at all ages feed early 
 and feed late. They should have about one 
 hour before dark to clean up the last feeding. 
 Clear fresh water should be introduced the 
 second day and kept before chicks in abund- 
 ant supply from then on. 
 
 SECOND DAY TO END OF FIFTH DAY 
 
 Feed mixture as outlined tor second day. 
 In addition teed a mash composed of: 
 loo lbs. of middlings, 
 lOO lbs. of bran, 
 lOO lbs. ot corn meal, 
 loo lbs. of beef scrap, 
 30 lbs. of bone meal, 
 thoroughly mixed half and half with com- 
 mercial chick feed. This mash should be 
 
c 
 
 Ulanual of Chickei t6j 
 
 placed in shallow tins or dishes (pie tins) 
 and kept before chicks at all times, 
 
 FIFTH DAY TO END OF SECOND WEEK 
 
 Omit mixture described under second day. 
 Separate commercial chick feed from mash 
 and spread chick feed in litter three times a 
 day. One liberal measuring cup full to loo 
 chicks. Mash as described under "Second 
 day to end of fifth day," but without the 
 commercial chick feed, to be retained in 
 dishes before chicks at all times.- 
 
 In addition to dry mash in dishes give 
 chicks mash moistened with sour skim milk, 
 as much as they will clean up each time in 
 15 minutes. Spread moist mash on papers, 
 using new papers every morning. Every pre- 
 caution should be taken to insure the chicks 
 from contact with moldy feed, moldy dishes 
 or moldy papers. Mold is dangerous. Sour 
 milk should be watched for signs of molci and 
 dishes should be thoroughly cleansed each 
 time when filled. Chicks from the fifth day 
 to end of second week should have sour milk 
 constantly before them, in fact they should 
 have it up to the age of 6 weeks. 
 
 Caution — Fresh water should not only be 
 kept before chicks at all times, but it should 
 be kept in chick fountains and not pans. It 
 is impossible for the chicks to get into the 
 water and get damp or drown if a fountain 
 is used. A small two-piece fountain is best, 
 consisting of container and drip pan. Several 
 small fountains per house, rather than a 
 30 
 
for l^rofitablg Pouiini T^iiinq 
 
 large one are ad\'isable. 
 Such fountains can be 
 easily cleaned and scrub- 
 bed. This should be 
 done often to prevent 
 disease. 
 
 SECOND WEEK TO EXD 
 OF FOURTH WEEK 
 
 Dry mash in pans .. ^ 
 
 before chicks at all r^, '*'^'*^^, 
 
 Moist mash twice a day, as much as they 
 will clean up in i^ minutes, fed as described 
 above. Chick feed twice a day spread in 
 litter as scratch. Sour milk and fresh water 
 to be before them at all times. 
 
 FOURTH WEEK TO EXD OF EICiHTH WEEK 
 
 Dry mash in pans at all times. 
 Omit wet mash unless hatch is late and 
 forced feeding is desired. If such is the 
 case feed wet mash once a da\' at noon. 
 
 Omit chick feed and substitute a scratch 
 teed composed of 
 
 loo lbs. whole wheat, 
 50 lbs. cracked corn, 
 25 lbs. oats, 
 or any good commercial scratch feed. Bar- 
 ley is a good substitute tor wheat when the 
 price of wheat is high. 
 Fresh water at all times. 
 Sour milk up to the age of 6 weeks. 
 
j^# 
 
 fjl lanual of Chiekea^ 
 
 ei(;ht weeks to maturity 
 I^ry mash in open lioppers at all times. 
 Scratch gram as described under "Fourth 
 Week to Knd of Kighth Week" in hoppers at 
 all times. In winter for laying pullets 25 lbs. 
 of buckwheat should be added to the scratch 
 formula. 
 
 Sudden change of feed should always be 
 avoided, especially with laying pullets. A 
 change, if necessary, should be gradually 
 effected so as to disturb the laying capacity of 
 the pullet as little as possible. 
 
 Hoppers for both mash and scratch can be 
 made as follows: 
 
 One length of H-in. stoye pipe. 
 One pan about j in. deep and about 
 4 in. larger in diameter than pipe, 
 pipe from ceiling of house by 
 wire so base will hang about one- 
 half inch from feed pan. A 
 cheap and easily constructed 
 hopper but very efflcient. 
 
 Chicks and chickens should 
 have all the green stuff they can 
 eat right from the very first day 
 of feeding. Cabbage, mangel 
 beets, lettuce and sprouted oats 
 make excellent food. Feed beets 
 and cabbage in grated form. A 
 grater same as useci by any house- 
 wife will do the work. In the 
 summer season where chickens 
 can forage ox'er many acres, the poultryman 
 
for l^rofitoble Poultat T^i^'mq 
 
 does not have to worry about the feeding ot 
 green stuff. If the natural supply is limited, 
 however, the above foods should be available 
 together with about one acre of clover or 
 alfalfa to every 500 layers. When hens are 
 confined, as in winter, it is absolutely neces- 
 sary to feed plenty of green food. 
 
 The Chick Yard or RiDi 
 
 Chicks should be kept in brooder house 
 until after 10 days old unless weather is very 
 warm and sunny. At 10 days of age, let 
 them out into grass run about 6 ft. square to 
 every 100 chicks. Such a yard should be 
 enlarged from time to time until chicks can 
 fly over a fence 1 ft. high. Such fence can 
 then be eliminated and chicks given free 
 range over a larger tract. 
 
 The Watei' Supply 
 
 Clear fresh water should be kept constantly 
 before chicks and chickens alike after they 
 are two days old. Interior fountains are 
 used for baby chicks until they are given 
 free range. (Too much emphasis cannot be 
 placed upon cleanliness of water fountains. 
 Do not rinse them, scrub them and do it 
 thoroughly. These same fountains can be 
 used for feeding sour milk.) An outdoor sup- 
 ply should then be provided. A water 
 system consisting of pipes run to each 
 brooder and laying house would be ideal. 
 Where such a system is impossible, barrels 
 may be used. 
 
fieff 
 
 f ^anual of Chieken^ 
 
 With a flock of 500 layers at least 3 barrels 
 should be found at various points not over 
 500 feet from the houses. A spigot or tap 
 at the base of each barrel allows the poultry- 
 man to either let the water drip slowly into 
 dish pans, or to draw the pan full at least 
 twice a day. 
 
 A convenient way of filling such barrels is 
 to have them mounted singly on small stone 
 boats. They may then be hauled from the 
 place of filling to any spot selected sufficiently 
 near the colony houses. 
 
 Litter for Chicks and Birds Matured 
 
 Before baby chicks are put into brooder, 
 the floor should be covered with one-half 
 inch of very fine but imiform gravel as grit 
 for the gizzard. This to be the only litter 
 within the confines of the guard around the 
 brooder stove. As soon as the guard is re- 
 moved, giving chicks run of house, the floor 
 should be well covered with finely chopped 
 rye or wheat straw. Damp moldy straw 
 should never be used; neither should sawdust 
 or shavings. Clean, dry straw finely chopped 
 is the best known litter. 
 
 A change of litter is required as soon as it 
 becomes soiled. A clean house means strong 
 birds, no lice, and insurance against disease. 
 House should be disinfected at each cleaning 
 with a good coal tar disinfectant, mixed ten 
 parts kerosene to one part disinfectant, and 
 sprayed thoroughly with hand sprayer. 
 
 J 4 
 
for "ProfitQblePouitat T^i^'mq 
 
 At the end of six weeks time whole straw 
 can be used, not too deep at first but suf- 
 ficient to cover the floor with a thickness of 
 several inches. For birds matured the litter 
 should always be six inches or more in depth. 
 The importance of dry straw for any litter 
 cannot be over estimated. Watch the litter 
 closely, change it often and be sure that straw 
 is neither damp nor moldy. 
 
 Broilers 
 
 Chicks are not broilers when eight or ten 
 weeks old, but let us go back that far to 
 study housing conditions tor a moment. 
 From the time they were transferred from 
 incubator to brooder up to the eight weeks' 
 age they have been housed in the brooder 
 house. Proper change of litter, the graduating 
 change of feed from paper to pan, to hopper, 
 
 ZS 
 
//Mnanualof Chiekenib 
 
 j^/"^ 
 
 etc. (see Feeding Baby Chicks, page 28) has 
 taken place, and now you have a little flock 
 at the age of eight weeks with the inclination 
 to roost. Never supply them with anything 
 to roost on before that age and preferably not 
 until 10 or 12 weeks old, or you will develop 
 crippled, bent breast bones. As there are 
 no roosts in the brooder house, when chicks 
 are old enough to roost, what is the most 
 economical method of providing the right 
 equipment? Laying houses are out of the 
 question if you have planned production 
 right, from year to year. They should 
 be busy housing prize stock in part and 
 layers in the rest. By the time chicks 
 are eight or ten weeks old you will find, 
 furthermore, that with even 250 chicks in a 
 brooder house same size as described on 
 page 23, that there is none too much room. 
 The economical thing to do is to convert the 
 brooder house temporarily into a colony 
 house and install removable roosts. (See 
 "Roosts", page 41). Then by means of 
 culling, sorting and selecting (see page 47), 
 you will weed out the cockerels, the weaklings, 
 and the future non-producers, placing them 
 in some temporary house by themselves 
 until large enough, probably about iK lbs. 
 in weight, to sell for broilers. All cockerels 
 should be sold except those selected for 
 breeding purposes. Never feed vour profits 
 to non-producers. Turn them into money 
 or swat them. 
 
 36 
 
for T^rofitoblePoultrif T^i^inq 
 
 Laying House 
 for from 80 to 100 Birds 
 
 (For 100 White Leghorns) 
 
 Many poultrymen make the serious mis- 
 take of using any old trap with four walls and 
 a cover as a laying house. In the first place 
 hens must be contented, and they never are 
 contented in a dark filthy hole. Sunlight is 
 a natural protection besides. It kills germs 
 and provides warmth. A clean, light, airy house 
 facing the south must be obtained. A row 
 of houses end to end can be used, or individual 
 houses separated at the will of the poultryman 
 are O. K. As a matter of convenience, if 
 the yards can be satisfactorily arranged to 
 keep fiocks separated, the houses are better 
 in apartment style end to end. 
 
 Specifications for One Laying House 
 
 FLOOR 
 
 20 ft. square; made of cement to be ver- 
 min proof and sanitary, 
 
 REAR 
 
 5 ft. high. Front — 7 ft. high and facing 
 south. 
 
 CURTAINED WINDOW 
 
 Of cheese cloth hung in center and at top 
 of front — size lo ft. long by y/i ft. high. 
 Hinges should be at top of curtained frame, 
 which frame is the only covering this opening 
 has winter or summer. Curtain should 
 
j;teff 
 
 nnanual of ChiekenA 
 
for T^rofitablePoultni '^l^i^mq 
 
 39 
 
JX^ 
 
 rnianual of ChiehenA 
 
 never be closed in daytime, and only at night 
 when temperature is below zero. Cheese 
 cloth should be kept clean at all times to aid 
 ventilation. Lack of ventilation may de- 
 velop roup overnight. 
 
 WINDOWS 
 
 Two in number in front, one on each side 
 of curtained window. These to be of glass 
 and cut from ceiling to about i ft. from 
 floor. The function of these windows is to 
 give sunlight over entire floor area even with 
 curtain closed. 
 
 LINING 
 
 This is necessary only in cold climates. 
 The interior lined with matched lumber 
 makes a 4 inch air space which adds greatly 
 to the warmth. 
 
 WATER TAN 
 
 Place on slatted platform at opposite end 
 of house from mash hopper. This will en- 
 courage exercise back and forth from mash to 
 water. Platform must be raised 18 in. from 
 floor so chickens can scratch underneath. 
 
 DUST BOX 
 
 Box containing sifted dirt or ashes and 
 a little lice powder sifted in about 3 times 
 a week should be near front of house. Hens 
 will dust themselves, 
 
 DROPBOARD 
 
 Three feet from floor, 4 ft. wide, running 
 entire length of house at back. Should be 
 level, not pitched. 
 
 40 
 
iov T^rofitablePoultni ^^iMnq 
 
 ROOSTS 
 
 Three in number, 2 in. x 3 in. in size, built 
 on rests about 5 in. above dropboard; should 
 run full length of house. Rests hinged at the 
 back enable poultrymen to raise roosts and 
 clean dropboard easily. Dropboard should 
 be cleaned at least once a week, oftener in 
 hot weather. Ashes sifted on boards after 
 cleaning will f^^cilitate work and decrease 
 danger of vermin. 
 
 —■-^— H^ — Hf- ■'— -y 
 
 Cross Section of Laying House Nests, Drop Board 
 and Roosts 
 
f^Qnual of Chieken^ 
 
 42 
 
for "Profitable 'Poultiii "feii^inq 
 
 ABOUT TWENTY NESTS PER HOUSE 
 
 Suspend nests under dropboard and flush 
 with front. Each nest to be about 12 in. 
 square and 12 in. high. Door covering front 
 of nests and hinged at bottom l<.eeps them 
 dark. Rear of nests to have free opening 
 at all times. 
 
 MASH HOPPER 
 
 Built at one end midway between drop- 
 board and front of house. 4 ft. long, 3 ft. 
 high, 3 in. wide at bottom and 2 ft. wide at 
 near edge of cover. Cover slanted at 45 
 degrees and hinged at top. Hopper to 
 
 Mash Hopper in Laying He 
 
 43 
 
A 
 
 nHonual of Chicken4 
 
 empty into trough about 6 in. wide and i in. 
 down from mouth of hopper, i^^ in. lip to 
 run entire length of trough and hold feed in 
 place. Platform for birds to stand on sus- 
 pended from base of hopper and on same 
 level with trough. Entire hopper so arranged 
 that platform will be i8 in. above floor. 
 
 GRIT, OYSTER SHELL AND CHARCOAL HOPPER 
 
 Small three-section hopper containing these 
 ingredients should be before birds at all times. 
 
 TRAP DOOR 
 
 An opening large enough for the largest 
 fowl should be cut through the front of 
 laying or brooder house and near the floor. 
 A metal door has been devised which slides 
 back automatically at the break of day 
 allowing the chicks or chickens to forage 
 early according to nature and catch the early 
 worm. If it were not for skunks, rats, cats 
 and other night prowlers, 1 1,000,000 worth 
 of chickens would not be lost annually and 
 a trap door would not be needed. The 
 opening alone would suffice. 
 
 But the opening must be closed at night 
 and should be open at the first wink of dawn. 
 The "metal" door referred to does this by 
 means of a feed cup which tempts the first 
 bird down in the morning. The slight con- 
 tact between her bill and the feed releases 
 the door. It's sure to operate, never fails, 
 and best of all, is so simple in construction 
 that nothing can get out of order. Such a 
 door is cheap insurance. 
 
 44 
 
for 'Profitable Pouitai T^i^inq 
 
 Laying House Trap Door 
 
 The publishers of this book will gladly put 
 you in touch with the manufacturer upon 
 application. 
 Note 
 
 A hole cut in the dividing partition be- 
 tween two 20 X 20 houses built end to end 
 makes it possible to accommodate 150 birds 
 per house instead of 100. 
 
 Feeding the Layers 
 
 About six quart pail of standard scratch 
 feed spread in litter for each 100 birds one 
 hour before dark. 
 
 Make test to determine exact amount by 
 putting feed in piles on the floor. 
 
 The best birds or those with highest 
 vitality will finish feeding first. All birds 
 should be satisfied in 20 minutes time. If 
 at the end of 20 minutes the feed has not 
 all been consumed, the birds are getting too 
 much, and the amount should be cut down. 
 On the other hand, if the feed is rapidly 
 45 
 
^manual of Chieken^ 
 
 cleaned up in much less than 20 minutes time, 
 and the birds still show a strong desire to eat, 
 the amount should be increased until they 
 are satisfied as described above. One-third 
 of the quantity fed at night should also be 
 fed about 6 each morning. 
 Mash consisting of: 
 
 200 lbs. beef scraps, 
 
 200 lbs. white middlings, 
 
 200 lbs. corn meal, 
 
 100 lbs. wheat bran, 
 
 100 lbs. crushed oats, 
 3S lbs. Old Process Oil Meal, 
 4 lbs. salt, 
 should be kept in hoppers before layers 
 from 12 M. to 7 A. M. the following morning. 
 If birds are not on tree range give plenty of 
 green food, such as mangel beets, cabbage, 
 sprouted oats or something of equal value. 
 
for "Profitable Pouitni T^l^inq 
 
 Culling, Sorting and Selecting 
 
 Right here let us state emphatically that 
 you can't make money from chickens and 
 feed your profits to non-producers. Culling 
 is one of the most important things for a 
 poultryman to insist upon. Intelligent cull- 
 ing requires time, patience, and knowledge 
 rarely possessed by the average owner of 
 chickens. Weaklings must be sorted out, 
 disease must be nipped in the bud, and poor 
 layers or non-producers must be disposed of 
 as quickly as possible. But which are they? 
 What are the indications? Can the poultry- 
 man be sure that his sorting is correct? 
 
 Culling should start the day chicks are 
 taken from the incubator. Dwarfs and 
 weaklings should be swatted immediately if a 
 vigorous flock is to be maintained. In- 
 variably it is the weakling that harbors 
 disease. 
 
 Lack of vitality, sluggishness, drooping 
 wings and tail, shivering, etc., can be nursed 
 along, but in the majority of cases it does not 
 pay. Cockerels should be sorted when weigh- 
 ing about 1% lbs. and sold for broilers. The 
 best retained for breeders. 
 
 When sorting pullets for layers, large birds 
 well fleshed, vigorous, head erect, tail erect, 
 eye clear and comb bright should be retained; 
 all others should be sold for broilers. 
 
 Culling, sorting and selecting starts with 
 the poultry business every time. Hatching 
 
j^# 
 
 f^Tlanual of Chieheniib 
 
 eggs require selection. Tests show infertile 
 eggs and dead germs. In spite of the most 
 exacting tests and the discarding of all 
 questionable eggs a certain percentage of the 
 chicks won't hatch. Another percentage 
 never reach the brooder. They are weaklings 
 and you swat them. Still others chill, have 
 the white diarrhoea or some other charac- 
 teristic disease. Then comes the time when 
 you sort for the standard of perfection. One 
 bunch you sell for broilers, the other is kept 
 and tenderly watched as the coming layers 
 and breeders to be. Finally breeders and 
 layers are separated and again the process 
 of elimination takes place. i\mong the 
 layers you find broody hens and hens with 
 conspicuous color pigment in legs and beak. 
 You sort them out. Outside of the selection 
 of stock for breeding and, therefore, from the 
 stancipoint of egg production, the culling of 
 layers is of prime importance. 
 
 Culling Layers 
 
 The points to look for in a good layer 
 are — 
 
 Eye clear and bright, 
 Comb red, 
 Bill not too long. 
 Head and tail erect. 
 Crop full. 
 
 Body wedge shaped. 
 Breast deep so as to consume large 
 quantities of feed, 
 
 48 
 
for T^rofitoblePoultni T^i^inq 
 
 Legs far apart and not too long, 
 Rear quarters heavy and broad, 
 Not over fat. 
 
 Any white leghorn or yellow-legged variety 
 of bird showing yellow beak, yellow legs, 
 comb pale and rather dried up should be sold 
 for meat. Heavy producers always lay 
 yellow pigment out of vents, eyelids and 
 bill during the laying season. The color 
 fading from these parts in the order named. 
 An empty crop usually indicates lack of 
 vitality and therefore a poor layer. Early 
 moulters are poor layers. Once in a while 
 a good layer will moult slowly and never stop 
 laying. 
 
 Pelvic 
 
 Xon-Producer 
 
 
 Good Laver 
 
 arch X to X ne; 
 closed. 
 
 rly 
 
 Three-finger distance between 
 pelvic bones x to x. 
 
 49 
 
/' 
 
 nTlonual of ChiekenA 
 
 To be sure that you are correct in your 
 analysis of indications examine the pelvic 
 bones. This should be done at night to 
 avoid exciting the birds. 
 
 Ample capacity for three lingers between 
 the pelvic bones indicates an excellent layer. 
 Two fingers, medium. Capacity for but 
 one finger or closed pelvic bones means that 
 bird has ceased laying and will not lay for 
 some time to come. 
 
 It is by all means best to turn such non- 
 producing stock into money and save the 
 feed. 
 
 It may seem peculiar to say that hens have 
 temperaments, but they do, and one type is 
 tempered for the market, the other for egg 
 production. That temperament may be the 
 fault of the poultryman and it may not. 
 Good layers have high strung nervous tem- 
 peraments. They are the first off the roost 
 and the last to bed. They are alert and 
 active. Poor lavers are prone to bask in the 
 sun, mope on the perch, etc. But the 
 healthy poor layer will eat just as much and 
 sometimes more than the good layer. She 
 usually has a fat, heavy thick abdomen that 
 sags below the breast bone instead of the 
 loose elastic abdomen of the good layer. 
 Therefore watch the temperament and sort 
 or cull continuously and persistently. There 
 is no one way in the poultry game of making 
 money easier than by saving it through 
 culling. 
 
 5° 
 
tor 'ProfttoblePouitai T^i^inq 
 
 A Starting Point for the 
 Beginner 
 
 Mr. Beginner, read the section on Culling, 
 which just precedes this paragraph. With 
 the absolute importance of culling in mind, 
 turn to the section "From Egg to Laying 
 Pullet." Follow it through to a finish and 
 then ask yourself this question: Can I afford 
 to wait all that time before any money starts 
 to come in, and at the same time run all the 
 preliminary chances of failure besides? If 
 you can then do it. There's money in it, and 
 we want to encourage, not discourage you, 
 but you might just as well face the facts 
 squarely and act according to circumstances. 
 The business of this book is to better the 
 poultry business as a profitable undertaking. 
 You can make money quicker as a sustaining 
 factor for your business by purchasing grown 
 birds, not hatching eggs. You won't make 
 more money necessarily, although we are 
 inclined to think beginners usually do by 
 this method, but you will have something 
 coming in which is mighty good moral sup- 
 port, and in addition you will have a better 
 chance to become acquainted with hens and 
 know what to expect. Please realize that 
 our point ot view is taken from the stand- 
 point of profit, rather than pleasure. The 
 most genuine pleasure in any field of en- 
 deavor is conceived as we see it, however, 
 
hi 
 
 rUlanual of ChiekenA, 
 
 from a knowledge of your own latent powers 
 to produce profitably. 
 
 Decide first upon what branch of the 
 poultry bushiess you wish to specialize 
 (show stock and breeding, meat or egg pro- 
 duction), and then go to a reliable breeder and 
 tell him your troubles. He will help you 
 pick out a breed and a strain of that breed, 
 best adapted to accomplish what you have 
 in mind. Always remember there are dif- 
 ferent strains of the same breed. One may 
 be a laying or egg-producing strain and the 
 other a meat-producing strain. With the 
 grown bird you can start immediately with 
 an egg or meat-producing machine and get 
 prompt results. But don't purchase mon- 
 grels, that is, do not mix breeds. Either set 
 a goal and aim at it with your one breed of 
 the desired strain, or, if you want to, establish 
 more than one breed, but keep them separate. 
 Poultry raising is a science and mongrels are 
 anything but a scientific product. 
 
 Winter Kggs 
 
 It sounds very well to say "Produce eggs 
 when the prices are highest," but you can. 
 You have to take that very egg production 
 into consideration long before you expect to 
 trot to market and get your big prices. 
 You have to go away back in the process to 
 the time of hatching. Whether you hatch 
 the eggs or whether you buy the chickens 
 makes no difference, the time of hatching is 
 
for T^rofitoblePouita} T^i^inq 
 
 what counts. Light weight active breeds, 
 like the White Leghorn, must be hatched later 
 than heavier breeds that take a longer time 
 to develop. March, i\pril and May are the 
 hatching months and the time of hatching 
 can be set in that period according to the 
 nature of the breed. Chicks hatched too 
 early will moult before winter as a rule and 
 that means no winter eggs. That is a most 
 unfortunate circumstance because pullets 
 lay more eggs than old hens. Hatch, there- 
 fore, so that you will have laying pullets, and 
 cull them carefully (see section on Culling), 
 to rid yourself of the non-producers. With 
 the right feeding, right housing and intelli- 
 gent handling there is no reason why you 
 should not have winter eggs. 
 
 Their Chicken Natures 
 
 To be most productive chickens require 
 quiet and solitude. The unusual excites 
 them more or less, and nervous tension 
 hinders the progress of nature. To go about 
 actively foraging in their own way, unmolest- 
 ed and over a sufficiently large territory, 
 enables the organs of nature to function 
 regularly and make the most out of the food 
 rations given them. Confinement among 
 breeders furthermore means less fertile eggs. 
 
 This productivity of the chicken is easily 
 understandable by comparison with the 
 human being. Undue excitement produces 
 indigestion. The cells of the stomach under 
 
 53 
 
/K/"! 
 
 /// Manual of ChiekonA 
 
 tension fail to absorb their normal quota. 
 Instead of nourishing, food has to be forced 
 from the system as a waste and the result is 
 lack of human efficiency. 
 
 These principles of nature apply to the 
 chicken. Fear agonizes the organs of pro- 
 duction and time has to help them get back 
 to normal. Fear and excitement should 
 therefore be avoided. Strange people, chil- 
 dren or any other disturbing factor should be 
 kept as far distant as possible. It is so easy 
 to be thoughtless and unintentionally create 
 a state of unrest. For instance, one poultry- 
 man set up a buz saw operated by a gasoline 
 engine almost immediately back of his laying 
 house and then wondered why his egg pro- 
 duction fell off. "Not I," you say, and of 
 course you would not do a thing of that kind 
 consciously, but other activities just as 
 peculiar have taken place among the most 
 sincere. Keep the idea well in mind that 
 you are dealing with nature when you are in 
 the chicken business, and while she may be 
 guided into new and different channels, she 
 cannot be tampered with or neglected. 
 
 Clean out your houses while the birds are 
 foraging. Treat them kindly when you 
 drive them out for this purpose. Cause 
 them to scamper towards you and not away 
 from you by your very actions. Then, too, 
 when you wish to cull or sort do not go at it 
 in a desperate manner. Do it at night when 
 the birds are quiet. Take a spot light with 
 
 54 
 
for T'rQfltQblePoultai T^i(>inq 
 
 you, work carefully and quietly. Practically 
 every chicken in a house can be examined 
 or treated as the occasion requires without 
 any bad or disturbing effects. 
 
 Once in a while chickens will acquire 
 peculiar habits. Usually there is a reason. 
 When you find a feather puller look for mites. 
 They live at the base of the feathers and 
 cause an irritation that sometimes keeps up 
 until the chicken is half naked. For treat- 
 ment see "Diseases and Remedies." 
 
 Another bad habit is egg-eating. Some 
 experts claim that enough available lime 
 and oyster shells will overcome the desire. 
 Throwing egg shells into the chicken yard 
 has been known to start the habit. If you 
 brown the shells and break them up fine 
 there is no danger and they should be given 
 back to the flock. Egg-eating may be over- 
 
hi 
 
 fteff 
 
 hrionual of ChiekenA 
 
 come by means of nests built to let the egg 
 roll through the bottom into a bag, but this 
 method cannot be considered a cure. Allow- 
 ing one hen to continue her egg-eating is bad 
 practice, because the other members of the 
 flock soon catch on and do likewise. A sure 
 way of effecting a cure is to use the axe. It's 
 the most profitable way sometimes. Remem- 
 ber, a lot of time spent on one bird will not 
 better conditions for the majority. You 
 might better rid yourself of her presence. 
 
 One other habit, that of flying over fences 
 is a very easy one to overcome. Clip the 
 feathers of one wing and the cure is eflective 
 if not permanent. 
 
 Molting is a characteristic, rather than a 
 habit. It is the natural shedding of feathers. 
 It takes place sometime between August i 
 and the first snow flurries. Early molters are 
 always the poorest layers. They might lay 
 a few eggs in the fall, but production would 
 stop during the winter and it does not pay 
 to keep them. When molting the bird's 
 vitality goes toward new feathers and not 
 toward eggs. 
 
 Broodiness 
 
 The broody hen has a well fixed idea that 
 she wants to sit. She resents any effort to 
 drive her from the nest. In fact, driving her 
 off won't do a whole lot of good. She will 
 undoubtedly cluck around for a few moments 
 
 56 
 
for l^rofltable Pouitrii '^l^i^inq 
 
 and go back again at the first opportunity. 
 Hens should be broken of broodiness the 
 first day it appears. One authority states 
 that the ovary of a hen after one day of 
 broodiness contains an abundance of mina- 
 ture yolks of eggs ready for laying within a 
 short period. By the third day of broodi- 
 ness, these yolks largely are absorbed. A 
 hen's temperature rises when she is broody, 
 and the best way to break her is to place her 
 in a small coop with a slat bottom that will 
 keep the under part of the body cool. 
 
 Tests also show that hens are much more 
 subject to broodiness when nest eggs are 
 used and when eggs are not gathered fre- 
 quently. In a Missouri State Experiment 
 Station test, two pens of six leghorns each 
 were used, and in the second pen, having a 
 nest full of china eggs, the hens went broody 
 a total of eleven times in two months, while 
 thefirst pen did not have a single broody hen. 
 
 57 
 
pe^^ 
 
 f^Qnual of Chicken^ 
 
 
 s 
 
 Prize Cockerel 
 
 58 
 
for T^rofttoblePoultri) T^iAinq 
 
 Breeding and Mating 
 
 In order to maintain a high producing flocls:, 
 hens should be mated to cockerels bred from 
 high producing mothers. The cockerel is 
 just as important as the hen. A low bred 
 cockerel mated to a high producing hen cuts 
 down egg production. But a cockerel large 
 in size, well matured and full of vigor and 
 vitality, that came from a high producing 
 mother when mated to a high producing hen 
 increases egg production. One such cockerel 
 mated to ten such hens makes the correct 
 proportion. 
 
 Cockerels should be kept away from pullets 
 and hens except at the breeding season. 
 Their presence is annoying to the hen and 
 cuts down egg production. For table use 
 germless eggs, furthermore, bring a higher 
 price than fertile eggs. At least once every 
 five years new blood should be introduced by 
 the purchase of new cockerels. It is not 
 advisable to inbreed more than five seasons. 
 
 Pullets should never be used for breeding 
 purposes. A two year old hen makes best 
 breeder because of rest during the winter and 
 the unusual strength of the eggs when they 
 start laying. Hens that persist in laying 
 through summer months and don't show 
 signs of molting until fall should be kept over 
 winter for breeders the next spring. The 
 eggs produced by such hens hatch a stronger, 
 bigger and more vigorous chick. 
 
 59 
 
hi 
 
 peff 
 
 fJHanual of Chieken^ 
 
 Hens two years old or more mated to 
 old cock birds produce a high percentage of 
 cockerels and should not be so mated. Hens 
 two years old or more mated to cockerels 
 hatched the preceding spring produce a 
 high percentage of pullets and are therefore 
 properly mated. It is never desirable or 
 profitable to keep the male birds into the 
 second season. All male birds should be dis- 
 posed of as rapidly as possible when not to be 
 used for breeding purposes. 
 
 Coming back to the subject of inbreeding; 
 what does it lead to? Let us answer this 
 question by asking another. What happens 
 in the human family if cousins, for example, or 
 other close kin marry? The children are degen- 
 erate, weak and physically incapable of with- 
 standing disease. Let us not question the 
 great rulings of nature. The more we try to 
 attack them with our own explanations the 
 more mystified we become. All animal life 
 as far as we know is governed by the breed- 
 ing of kin as far distant as possible. At any 
 rate it works out with chickens. Pick out 
 the most active, strong, representative birds 
 of distant relationship for mating. 
 
 Libreeding engenders physical weakness, 
 and such blood should not be transmitted to 
 future generations of your flocks. You can't 
 raise egg-producers if you practice inbreed- 
 ing. Nature forbids. Once in a while among 
 animal life, you find a man peculiarly fitted to 
 choose breeding stocks. He senses rather 
 60 
 
for "Profitable Poultrn T^i^'mq 
 
 than reasons, and he does it mainly with his 
 eye. This cannot be done with accuracy or 
 safety among poultry. The feathers deceive. 
 Don't try it. Follow the successful experi- 
 ence of others and profit by your own mis- 
 takes. At least if you desire success, don't 
 continue to inbreed. 
 
 The Barnyard Flock 
 
 What is true of the commercial flock is true 
 of the barnyard flock or the backyard 12. 
 Equipment only should be modified to suit 
 circumstances. Decide what you want to 
 accomplish and follow the line of least re- 
 sistance by following nature. As a rule, both 
 meat and eggs are desired from the farm- 
 yard flocks. 
 
 Rhode Island Red (Meat Strain] 
 61 
 
fi 
 
 nrianual of ChiekenA 
 
 Pick out a medium weight breed and 
 an egg-laying strain. Don't harbor 
 mongrels. While your feed don't cost much, 
 because it's mostly waste, neither does it 
 produce much when fed to mongrels as com- 
 pared to what it might produce at no greater 
 cost when fed to a good egg-laying strain of 
 medium weight birds. Farmyard flocks have 
 advantages of feed and disadvantages. The 
 range is usually ideal, and in season they get 
 plenty of green stuff and bugs, but on the 
 other hand they many times either get all of 
 one kind of feed or else lack that particular 
 kind entirely. 
 
 If you have a farmyard flock, follow the 
 section "feeding the layers" as nearly as 
 possible. You know pretty well what the 
 hens are getting when foraging. Make up a 
 feed balance by supplying the items they 
 don't get. If you lack some of the exact 
 constituents of the formulas, put in something 
 of similar food value. 
 
 See that your hens have plenty of fresh 
 water conveniently located, so they won't be 
 forced to drink the barnyard stench. It 
 causes disease. Give them proper housing, 
 and in winter see that they have meat scraps 
 and green stuff". Take care of the litter, change 
 it; you've got the stuff" going to waste. Filth 
 won't produce eggs. 
 
 On the farm the mother hen ably and 
 naturally takes the place of the commercial 
 incubator. 
 
 62 
 
iov "Profitable Poultni T^i^'mq 
 
 Sfe^^*<5i^^'~' 
 
 ^''ir^^^i 
 
 For best results, it is well not to give 
 her more than 14 eggs. Try her out 
 before the hatching eggs are placed under 
 her by means of china eggs. She may fool 
 you and stay on the nest only a couple of days. 
 If she shows signs of permanency, give her 
 the real eggs and prepare for chicks. Re- 
 member that lice are one of the first dangers 
 when the mother hen is used. Her feathers 
 should be dusted thoroughly with lice powder 
 often enough to avoid any chances. Her little 
 flock when hatched, should be kept from wet 
 grass and chilling. This can be done by 
 housing the mother in a coop and by screening 
 in a small yard or run in front of it. For 
 chick feed, culling and other points of 
 necessity, examine the sections of this book 
 under those headings. Culling is all import- 
 ant. It means that you weed out non-pro- 
 ducers, and furthermore hinder them from 
 raising more non-producers. 
 
 (>3 
 
hi 
 
 (Manual of Chiekgn^ 
 
 The Backyard Twelve 
 
 Constant attention is seldom it ever given 
 the tiny flock found in the townsman's back- 
 yard. For this reason we believe that the 
 purchase of birds to start in with is more 
 profitable than the raising of chicks. It is of 
 course true that the backyard 12 are many 
 times the owner's hobby. He likes birds and 
 he likes to experiment and fuss with them. 
 From the standpoint of pleasure taken in 
 producing, raising and cross breeding a small 
 flock, the science of poultry raising can 
 have little application. We treat the subject, 
 however, from the profitable angle, and any- 
 thing we say therefore will be pointed out 
 from the scientific point of view. Ten hens, 
 not more than twelve, and one rooster make 
 one practical unit, providing fertility of eggs 
 is desired. Fertile eggs are not necessary, in 
 fact with pullets are not desirable, because the 
 pullets will lay more without contact with a 
 rooster and their eggs should not be used 
 for hatching purposes anyway. 
 
 A rooster eats considerable food and may 
 be dispensed with unless hatching is antici- 
 pated. If hatching is attempted the sitting 
 hen should be given from 12 to 15 eggs, 
 depending on her covering capacity and 
 placed in a quiet darkened spot. She should 
 not be annoyed by the rest of the flock. The 
 yard or run for her little chicks should be 
 fenced ofl^ from the older birds for protection 
 
 64 
 
iov l^rofitoble Pouitri) '^to^inq 
 
 to the chicks and to hinder the mother from 
 forgetting her children through her contact 
 with the other birds. 
 
 It is not necessary to give dimensions, etc., 
 for a coop. The main thing is to have 
 shelter and be sure that the litter is dry and 
 free from mold. For chick feed see the 
 section devoted to that subject. The section 
 "Feeding the Layers" can also be followed 
 for the older birds. Commercial scratch 
 feed and meat mash together with oyster 
 shell and grit can be purchased from any 
 poultry supply house. Do not overlook 
 the green stuff however. The older chickens 
 can be given garbage from the table. Do 
 not make the mistake of taking "garbage" 
 to mean all waste, however. Green stuff, 
 meat scraps, bread crumbs, cooked potato 
 leavings, etc., will be cleaned up, but avoid 
 making a compost pile out of the chicken 
 yard. Cleanliness is all important; and to 
 keep the yard which is naturally small in 
 correct condition it should also be spaded 
 up from time to time to keep it from getting 
 sour. 
 
 Many times the mistake is made of assum- 
 ing that any old shelter is good enough for 
 chickens. It is, if you want lousy, inactive 
 non-producers. One of the best backyard 
 houses we have ever seen was built of hollow 
 tile and had a cement floor. It was warm 
 and rat proof, light and sanitary. In prin- 
 ciple it was built just like the laying houses, 
 
 6; 
 
fi 
 
 f^Qnual of ChiekenA, 
 
 page oo, but much smaller (about 9 tt. 
 by 12 ft. outside dimensions). It was a 
 success. As many as 17^^ dozen eggs from 
 12 hens in one month (a winter month too) 
 were laid. The hens were well cared for, 
 of course, and their natures were respected. 
 Any section of this book can be read with 
 profit by the owner of a little family flock, 
 and he can make them pay if he treats them 
 as nature requires. 
 
 Disease and Remedies 
 
 Lice and Mites 
 
 They are blood sucking parasites and they 
 weaken chickens, not only hindering egg 
 production, but rendering the afflicted bird 
 subject to disease. 
 
 Lice are rarely found if laying house is 
 kept clean and dust box is available. When 
 found they should be treated at once with 
 lice powder. An efficient home-made powder 
 consists of ^ lbs. Plaster Paris 
 >2 pt. Carbolic Acid 
 1J2 pts Gasoline 
 
 Mix thoroughly and seal in glass jars to 
 retain strength. A baking powder can with 
 holes punched in top makes an excellent duster. 
 
 Always treat birds at night. Grasp feet 
 and dust powder thoroughly into feathers. 
 Lice powder will not kill lice eggs. A second 
 treatment should be given birds within two 
 weeks time to kill the young lice. 
 
 Sodium fluorid may also be used. To get 
 66 
 
for T>rQfitQblePoultai T^ii>inq 
 
 best results every bird in a flock ought to be 
 treated by rubbing the powder upward 
 among the feathers with the ends of fingers. 
 Roup 
 
 Roup is the poultryman's worst enemy. 
 It starts with catarrhal running eye and if 
 prolonged the eye swells and pufl^s to many 
 times its normal size. The closed eye will 
 discharge a thick yellow, creamy substance with 
 very off^ensive odor. It allowed to spread 
 roup will wipe out the entire flock. Always 
 watch birds at teeding time, and immediately 
 separate any bird showing signs or acting 
 drowsy from flock and place in sunny room 
 for treatment. Many times the axe pays 
 best. When used be sure to bury or Ijurn 
 the birds afi^ected. 
 
 Roup can be checked in its early stages by 
 putting enough permanganate of potash into 
 drinking water to color it dark pink. Head 
 ot bird can also be immersed in a dark red mix- 
 ture of same solution. This should be done 
 three times a day and as many days as required. 
 
 Example of Roup 
 
 6- 
 
peff 
 
 IHanual of'^ ChiekQn.^^ , 
 
 White Diarrhoea 
 
 One authority says, "This disease probably 
 kills more chicks than all other diseases 
 combined. Many noted scientists are work- 
 ing upon a remedy for this fatal chicken 
 disease, but up to date, to the best of our 
 knowledge, no treatment has been found 
 that is reliable. 
 
 "The disease is caused by a germ, and germs 
 generally are the result of filth, therefore 
 try to eliminate the cause by having your 
 hen coop and yards absolutely sanitary. 
 Spray and disinfect often, three or four 
 times a year. The bacillus or germ is found 
 in the ovaries of the affected hen. From 
 these infected ovaries, fertile eggs will hatch 
 chicks infected with the deadly disease. 
 Hence the difficultN' in eradicating the trouble." 
 
for T^rofitablePoullnj T^i^inq 
 
 The best treatment is "swat or kill the 
 chick or chickens." Otherwise use preven- 
 tatives. See that new birds when purchased 
 are free from the disease. Be a crank on 
 cleanliness. Thoroughly disinfect incubators 
 after each hatch, scrub them, spare no pains. 
 Give chicks sour milk and for chickens of anv 
 age avoid sour putrid ground. Move the 
 \'ard from time to time and keep the ground 
 turned over and loose. 
 
 Crop Bound 
 
 String, feathers and other foreign matter 
 sometimes lodges at the lower end of the crop. 
 In addition to a bulging of the crop, the bird 
 becomes weak and emaciated from lack of 
 nourishment. When first noticed, it is some- 
 times possible to work the obstruction from 
 the opening bv kneading the crop with the 
 fingers. In extreme cases give the bird a 
 2;ood tablespoontul of castor oil, work the 
 oil down to the opening by kneading, and if 
 necessary empty out the crop by holding the 
 bird head down. The particles will work 
 out through the mouth. On account of 
 irritation, the bird should be sparingly fed for 
 a couple of days. As soon as irritation has 
 passed away, give her some sharp grit. It 
 will reestablish the functions of the crop 
 when new coarse food is again devoured. 
 Miscellaneous 
 
 There are other diseases, of course, to 
 which chickens are subject: worms, chicken 
 pox, diphtheria, canker, indigestion, etc. The 
 69 
 
j^# 
 
 ^ : i. ^^ ■.,,,.' .!.,.riA 
 
 ones we have described are perhaps most 
 common and give the poultryman the great- 
 est annoyance. It is usually safe to use the 
 axe if anything develops that you do not 
 understand. It may seem unprofitable, but 
 it is more profitable than the general spread 
 of disease throughout the flock. Cleanliness 
 and common sense do wonders in preventing 
 disease. We can not emphasize cleanliness 
 too strongly or under too many headings in 
 this book. 
 
 Miscellaneous Points, 
 Summarized 
 
 It may be said that poultrymen can build 
 and construct for themselves almost all 
 equipment needed. Some poultrymen can, 
 and some do at the expense of their flocks. 
 Why expense you say? A man in the poultry 
 game is the attending nurse. He might better 
 hang around, just watching, than to be 
 absent when the unforeseen occurs. He can 
 not afford to divide his attention. Then, too, 
 the element of uncertainty creeps in. He is 
 experimenting with equipment, when as a 
 rule, he will have his hands full experiment- 
 ing with his flock. 
 
 Little reasons why certain things are made 
 in a certain way do not always crop out with- 
 out experience. This book is not presented to 
 you as a cure-all. The best teacher in the 
 world can not make some scholars learn. 
 Those who have the inclination backed by 
 
for T^rofitablePoultrn T^i^inq 
 
 good judgment, however,can save themselves 
 years of experiments by applying its contents. 
 
 Do not get the impression that we, favor 
 idleness, or that practical construction work 
 cannot be done on the premises. We pur- 
 posely specify how to build, etc., so that you 
 may save money. Don't let your prime at- 
 tention turn from your flocks, however. It 
 pays much better to buy a great many acces- 
 sories and through their purchase let the 
 other fellow experiment than to waste your 
 own time in the process. You will notice 
 that for one thing we do not tell how to 
 build an incubator. We do not recommend 
 that you try it, that is why. It is hard 
 enough to get a high per cent hatch from the 
 best incubator built, and you can well believe, 
 the builders had their troubles and anxious 
 moments during their experimental stage. 
 Spend your time as much as possible study- 
 ing and perfecting your flock. It will pay 
 you royally. 
 
 Another point we feel justified in calling to 
 your attention is the raising of feed (see page 
 76). It is well as suggested to raise as much 
 feed as possible. You ought to be able to 
 save the middleman's profits. There again, 
 you are in danger of divided interests. You are 
 liable to spend too much time raising feed 
 insteadof raisingchickens. If you are after big 
 production in chickens, and you have land 
 enough to raise the feed; hire a farmer, tell him 
 what you must have and let him produce it. 
 
 71 
 
fi<!4 
 
 lllanual of'' ChiekerUb 
 
 He must then make his end pay. Theoretically, 
 you can pay the farm the market price for 
 feed. It will cost you no more, and if the 
 farm pays, vou will have a second profit. 
 
 Records 
 
 If you are in the business to make money, 
 you must know where you make it and where 
 you lose it. When vou know you can often- 
 times see ways of remedying conditions. 
 Statistics show that a large majority of 
 failures in all lines of business are directly due 
 to ignorance of facts. Facts point the way. 
 
 Know what vour costs are per flock. Be 
 able to compare one record with another and 
 find out what caused any variation in results. 
 Begin with the incubator and keep a record. 
 Follow with the brooder, the colony house, 
 the breeders, the layers. Know your feed 
 costs, your stock purchases, your net sales, 
 and best of all, what produced them. If 
 disease cuts the ranks of one flock, you know 
 it. How did it affect the producing qualities 
 in eggs for instance!^ It's good business to 
 know and simple records tell vou. 
 
 Dont Crowd 
 
 Some people get smothered, nauseated in a 
 crowd. Some chicks do too. And the crowd 
 don't have to be so very dense either. Give 
 the chicks and chickens plenty of room at all 
 times. Chicks under the hover must have 
 room (see Brooding). When feeding older 
 birds, do not make them crowd and fight for 
 
iov TProfitablePoultrif T^i^inq 
 
 it. Put the feed in enough piles or spread it 
 over enough area so they may feed com- 
 fortably, giving the weaker ones a chance. 
 Crowding weakens and weakness invites 
 disease. Don't crowd. 
 
 The Farm to Secure and Hints 
 that Help You Buy It 
 
 Where? Near a railroad or better yet near 
 a market. Save express and freight charges, 
 it possible, by locating where you can deliver 
 and not ship. Just such savings as this make 
 possible from $40 to 56o a week from 500 
 hens. A near city farm means higher prices, 
 too, and you get the benefit — not the com- 
 mission merchant. By-products are easily 
 converted into money, feed is easily obtained 
 and personal contact with your trade is en- 
 joyed. It must be very discouraging for a 
 ]nan to have the energy, ability and equip- 
 
 ^wt''^iitki< 
 
fletf 
 
 hnanuQl of ChiekgnA 
 
 ment to make money in the chicken business, 
 and be handicapped by not being able to 
 readily market his product. Too much em- 
 phasis, therefore, cannot be laid upon the 
 advantages of good location. 
 
 Good roads and abundant water supply 
 are points to be thoroughly considered before 
 and not after the purchase or rental of 
 property. In a cold climate where roads are 
 snow bound, location means either the loss 
 of time and money or a saving of what should 
 be profits. A penny saved is worth about 
 two earned in any business. 
 Kind of Soil 
 
 Sandy soil is not only best adapted to 
 chickens but as a rule it can be purchased at a 
 very reasonable price. Sand hills lacking 
 the richness and strength to raise crops can 
 be made to pay big when devoted to chickens. 
 The constant scratching of the birds will 
 turn over the sand easily, causing it to com- 
 pletely absorb all manure and at the same 
 time prevent the top soil from souring quickly. 
 Rich, heavy soil becomes so saturated with 
 fertilizer that constant dragging or harrow- 
 ing is required. With the best of attention 
 it will become sour, and many times turn a 
 greenish color. Such soil is offensive in odor 
 and breeds disease. It should be avoided if 
 possible. 
 Advantage oj Trees 
 
 By planting fruit trees on the ground where 
 chickens forage, necessary shade is provided, 
 74 
 
for "Profitable Poultai T^i^inq 
 
 and the ground made to pay an additional 
 source of revenue. Trees bear especially well 
 on fertilized sandy soil. The ground being 
 light, favors the growth of fruit rather than 
 wood on the trees. Surplus fertilizer thrown 
 around the trees and thus converted into 
 fruit is disposed of at a maximum profit. 
 
 Using Manure 
 
 There is always the danger ot spreading 
 hen manure too thick. It is the richest and 
 most valuable of manures, and should not only 
 be spread thin but should be diluted or mixed 
 with straw or some other similar agent. Piled 
 in piles and allowed to stand causes hen 
 manure to lose much of its value. I sed 
 immediately or as soon as possible it spreads 
 much farther, and is much more active in its 
 effect as a fertilizer. While hen manure can 
 be readily sold for |i.oo or more per barrel, it 
 is worth much more than that to the man 
 who raises feed for his chickens. By placing 
 
//^# 
 
 nricmual of ChiekenA 
 
 it back on the land, more and better teed is 
 produced, proper strength is maintained in 
 the land and the amount of teed purchased 
 from outside sources is reduced. Make the 
 land produce the eggs and chickens as tar 
 as possible. The percentage of profit then 
 increases by leaps and bounds. 
 
 The correct use of manure requires much 
 study and attention. Foo much is some- 
 
 times worse than not enough. L^sed to its 
 best advantage, manure is immensely valu- 
 able and tigures largely in the amount ot 
 money made from a chicken tarm. 
 
 Raising of Feed 
 
 Wheat, corn, oats, barley, buckwheat, 
 suntlower seeds, mangel beets, cabbage, etc., 
 can all be raised to excellent advantage on 
 sandy loam soil. In tact most teeds con- 
 sumed bv chickens can be profitably raised 
 by the man in the chicken business. Raising 
 of feed cuts out the agent's margin ot profit, 
 and feed passes through the hands ot at least 
 three agents before reaching the poultryman. 
 The cost of producing on the land is infinitely 
 less, therefore, than the cost of teed pur- 
 chased on the open market. With grains 
 that produce a by-product such as straw a 
 double saving is effected. Not only do you 
 cut out the purchase of straw but all waste 
 becomes an asset the minute it is thrown 
 back on the land. 
 
 Before fruit trees have been set out or 
 before thev have grown suf^ciently to be 
 76 
 
for Profitable Po ultry ^ toinq 
 
 of value for shade, corn can be planted near 
 the chicken houses. After it is i ft. high 
 the chickens may be allowed to run through 
 it, obtaining bugs, fertilizing the corn, keep- 
 ing it clean and enjoying the shade. 
 
 An abundant supply of green stuff should 
 always be available. A flock of 500 layers 
 will consume about one acre ot clover or 
 alfalfa through the summer season. Seeding 
 for the clover must be done the preceding 
 year. 
 
 Facts and Figures 
 
 Items of cost found under "Equipment" 
 or "Expense," and the figures found under 
 "Sources of Income," are based on a unit oi 
 500 White Leghorn Hens. 
 
 White Leghorns were chosen because in 
 terms of eggs, and therefore net profits, they 
 are one of the best commercial hens. NN ith 
 birds of other breed the sources of income will 
 vary possibly per item; for instance, heavier 
 birds raised for meat will produce less eggs 
 but increase the meat revenue. Such birds 
 are many times advisable, especially in small 
 flocks for family purposes where meat is in 
 great demand. Again if the market avail- 
 able to the owner of chickens pays fancy 
 prices for meat, a very satisfactory income 
 may be realized from meaty birds. 
 
 According to manv big, successful leaders 
 in poultry, however, eggs are the money 
 maker, and a breed of birds must be chosen 
 that produces eggs, big eggs and many oi 
 
rtnanual of ChickenA 
 
 them. Not always do White Leghorns fill 
 the bill. In Boston the demand is for brown 
 eggs and fancy prices are paid for them. It 
 would be folly for a man attempting to dis- 
 pose of his products through the Boston 
 market to raise White Leghorns. Granting 
 that White Leghorns in general pay the best, 
 a close study of market conditions must be 
 made to ascertain whether the demand is for 
 white or brown eggs, before poultry of one 
 breed or another can be made to pay a sum 
 approaching I48.85 a week from 500 hens. 
 
 Yes 148.8^; a week net. In the sixth year 
 of business, this profit is only reasonable. 
 If you fail to make a proportionate profit, 
 costs and selling prices considered, you fail 
 to approach the standard of success estab- 
 lished by those who do make this profit. You 
 simply fail to be their business equal in the 
 poultry industry. It may be a lack of appli- 
 cation. It may be the spirit of self-reliance 
 that leads you to disregard the methods of 
 
 78 
 
for "Profitable PoultTM T^i^inq 
 
 others. x'\gain, it may be the lack oi under- 
 standing, or your inabiHty to sympathize 
 with the natural element. Thelawsgoverning 
 poultry can not be absolutely written in black 
 and white. Taking these laws as a basis, and 
 applying their principles with good judgment, 
 makes the exceptionally poor year a very 
 unlikely happenstance. 
 
 The cost and selling prices given in the 
 following tables are based on 191 8. They are 
 the averages as we know them. They show 
 where and how the money is made. It is not 
 "easy money." The first and second years 
 show little profit. If you go into the business 
 determined to win and you are ready to 
 "stand the gaff" of discouragement for two 
 years, we assure you this, you will get your 
 reward. 
 
 From the third year on, each year looks 
 brighter till, in the sixth year, enough money 
 has been made from a unit of 500 hens to pay 
 back the investment figured, to clear the 
 title on all equipment and to pay living 
 expenses and rent with a net profit of I48.85 a 
 week besides. 
 
 Mr. Reader, we do not say that you will 
 make that sum, but that the man with ex- 
 perience can under ordinary circumstances. 
 Nothing but the unusual could prevent if you 
 yourself are adapted to the job. After all we 
 repeat one of the first pages in this book, 
 
 it's up to you 
 
 79 
 
f^Hm\ual of Chiekea^b 
 
 important 
 
 New beginners are not advised to start in 
 with 500 hens, or with a hatch as big as we 
 figure on in these tables. Nor do you need as 
 much capital to invest. Start small and 
 profit by your experience. The scale of 500 
 is taken, and the stock and equipment neces- 
 sary to produce that ^^oo, so that you may 
 see correctly just what the future has in store 
 if you make up your mind to go after it. 
 
 iikl.^ I 
 
 ^ M 
 
 80 
 
for T^rofitablgPouitai T^i^'mq 
 
 THE FIRST YEAR 
 
 (March to March) 
 
 Property rented, 3 acres 
 
 Capital needed, |i,70o 
 
 For 500 hens (starting with hatching eggs in spring— no 
 matured stock) 
 
 EQUIPMENT 
 
 Incubator, not more than $266.00 
 
 3 Brooder Stoves 60.00 
 
 3 Laying Houses [650.00 
 
 3 Brooder Houses ) 
 
 Spread over 5 yrs. 
 
 Per Year 
 
 5) 976.00 
 t 195-20 
 
 EXPENSE {One Year.) 
 
 On equipment ? 195.20 
 
 Rent (house and 3 acres) 
 
 Tools, etc. 
 
 Feed 
 
 Hatching eggs 
 
 Living 
 
 360.00 
 I 00 . 00 
 1000.00 
 336.00 
 800 . 00 
 
 2,801 .20 
 Interest S^-S^ 
 
 Total Expense . . . : $2,859.76 
 
 Source of Income 
 
 250 Chicks at .15 
 
 250 Broilers at .75 
 
 20,000 Eggs at .05 . 
 
 Total income . 
 Capital invested 
 
 Assets . 
 Total Expense 
 Cash on hand . 
 
 t 37 
 
 187 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,225 
 1,700 
 
 2,925 
 2,859 
 6^.74 
 
 No money made — investment outstanding — but one-fifth 
 
 of equipment paid tor. 
 
 81 
 
.ff 
 
 flTlanuQl of Chieken^ 
 
 SECOND YEAR 
 
 EQUIPMENT 
 Not paid for $780.80 
 
 EXPEXSE 
 
 On equipment $195.20 
 
 Rent 360.00 
 
 Tools 50.00 
 
 Feed 1,375.00 
 
 Living : 800.00 
 
 Interest - 46.85 
 
 Total Expense $2,827.05 
 
 Source ok Income 
 
 (Figuring an average of 150 eggs from each of 500 hens) 
 
 — 75,000 eggs — 
 
 5,000 retained for hatching 
 
 5,000 allowed for consumption and breakage 
 
 65,000 at .05 53,000.00 
 
 5,000 at .14 . . 700,00 
 
 500 Broilers at .75 375.00 
 
 2,260 Chicks at .15 .Hg.oo 
 
 250 Pullets at $1.50 375.00 
 
 250 Hens at ?i.50 ... 375.00 
 
 Total Income 35,164.00 
 
 Total Expense 2,827.0s 
 
 Net Earnings 52,336.95 
 
 Interest on $1,700 for 2 yrs. at 6':, . . 5204.00 
 
 Capital 1,700.00 1,904.00 
 
 432.95 profit 
 
 For one year and the (Original Investment paid otf. 
 
 82 
 
fov T^rofitable Poultrij l^ iMnq 
 
 THIRD YEAR 
 
 EQUIPMENT 
 Not paid for S585.60 
 
 EXPENSE 
 
 On eqiiipmcnr 5195.20 
 
 Hent 360.00 
 
 Tools, crc. i;o.oo 
 
 Feed 
 
 ,375.00 
 
 Living 800.00 
 
 Interest on S585. 60 JS-I4 
 
 Total Expense S2,8ic.34 
 
 Source or Income 
 Same as second year .... 55,164.00 
 Expense 2,815.34 
 
 Profit for year . .... 52,348.66 
 
 52,348 . 66 
 
 = 545.16 a week net profit. 
 
 ^2 weeks 
 
 FOURTH YE.AR 
 
 EQUIPMENT 
 Not paid for . 5390.40 
 
 On 
 
 EXPENSE 
 
 ;quipment 5195.20 
 
 Rent 360.00 
 
 Tools, etc. " - 50.00 
 
 Feed 1,375.00 
 
 Living 800.00 
 
 In 
 
 terest on 5390.40 23.42 
 
 Total Expense 52,803.62 
 
 Source or Income 
 Same as second year .... 55,164.00 
 Expense 2,803.62 
 
 Profit tor year ^2,360. 38 
 
 2,360.38 
 
 = 545.39 a Week net profit. 
 
 ^2 weeks 
 
 «3 
 
j^# 
 
 ITlanual of Chiekeni, 
 
 FIFTH YEAR 
 
 EQUIPMENT 
 Not paid for ^195.20 
 
 EXPENSE 
 
 On equipment I195.20 
 
 Rent 360.00 
 
 Tools 50.00 
 
 Feed 1,375.00 
 
 Living 800.00 
 
 Int. on ?l95.2o 11.71 
 
 Total Elxpense 12,791.91 
 
 Source o* Incomf. 
 
 Same as for second year . . . ^5, 164. 00 
 Expense 2,791.91 
 
 Profit for year 1(2,372.09 
 
 12,372.09 
 
 = ^45.63 a week net profit. 
 
 52 weeks 
 
 SIXTH YEAR 
 
 Equipment .^ll P.^id For 
 
 EXPENSE 
 
 Rent 360.00 
 
 Tools and upkeep . . ^ 88.48 
 
 Feed 1,375.00 
 
 Living 800.00 
 
 Total Expense ^2,623. 48 
 
 Source of Income 
 
 Same as for second year. . . . 5,164.00 
 Expense 2,623.48 
 
 Profit for yr 2,540.52 
 
 $2,540.52 
 
 = ?48.85 a week net profit after living 
 
 52 weeks and rent have been piaid 
 
 84 
 
for T'rQfitQbiePo uitni IMi^m 
 
 Plymouth Rock Pullet 
 
 85 
 
Definitions 
 
 Breed — A race or variety, such as White Leghorn, 
 Rhode Ishmd Red, Orpington, etc. 
 
 CoLOKV House — A home tor voiing birds and broilers 
 of one particular breed or strain 
 
 Culling — Term used by poiiltrvmen in sorting and 
 selecting 
 
 Department House — Colon\or lavinu; houses grouped 
 end to end 
 
 Germ LESS Egg — Infertile or non-bearing 
 
 Hopper — A container tor teed, mash, grit, etc. 
 
 Hover — Usually applied in the poultry industry to a 
 funnel-shaped suspended cover tor keeping warmth 
 about baby chicks 
 
 Inbreeding — The constant production of stock without 
 the introduction ut new blood 
 
 Mites — A form of" lice found at the end of the feather, 
 closest to the skin 
 
 MoLi — Natural shedding of feathers 
 
 Mongrel — A bird of unknown or mixed breed or strain 
 
 Pullet — A young hen 
 
 Strain — Hereditary qualities and disposition: for 
 example, egg-producing strain, meat strain, etc. 
 
Index 
 
 Page 
 Backyard Twelve 64, 65 
 
 Barnyard Flock 61, 62, 63 
 
 Beginners' Number of Chickens to Start With . 80 
 
 Beginners' Starting Point 5i> 5- 
 
 Breeding and Mating 59-^i 
 
 Broilers: How to House Them (see Culling 
 
 and Sorting) 35, ^(^ 
 
 Broodiness 56 
 
 Brooding and Number of Chicks Per House 22, 23, 72 
 
 Brooder House Specifications and Description . 23, 24 
 
 Brooder House Temperature -4? -5 
 
 Building, Whether to Hire it Done or Do it 
 
 Yourself 70, 71 
 
 Chick Fountain, illustrated 28 
 
 Chick Guard Around Brooder Stove ... 25 
 
 Chick Yard or Run 
 
 33 
 
 Coal Burning Brooder Stove, illustrated . . 25 
 
 Commercial Hen, The 11 
 
 Construction of Incubator Cellar .... 19 
 
 Cost and Profits (see Facts and Figures) . . 77-84 
 
 Crop Bound 69 
 
 Culling Layers 48 
 
 Culling, Sorting and Selecting 47-5° 
 
 Dead Germ at Seventh Day Testing, illustrated 16 
 
 Definitions 86 
 
 Diseases and Remedies 66-70 
 
 Eggs in Winter 5^, '^3 
 
 Equipment, Cost of 81-84 
 
 Farm to Secure and Hints to Help Buy It . . 73, 77 
 
 Feeding the Layers 45, 46 
 
Index- — Continued 
 
 Page 
 
 Feeding Baby Chicks ~^-33 
 
 Second Day to End of Fifth Day ... 29 
 
 Fifth Day to End of Second Week ... 30 
 
 Second Week to End of Fourth Week . . 31 
 
 Fourth Week to End of Eighth Week . . 31 
 
 Eighth Week to Maturity 32 
 
 When to Start Feeding Baby Chicks . . 21, 28 
 
 Feed, Raising of 71,76,77 
 
 FertiHzer, Use of 75, 76 
 
 Formulas (see Feed) 
 
 Germless Egg, illustrated 15 
 
 Good Layers Physical Construction, illustrated 49 
 Habits, such as Egg Eating, Feather Pulling, 
 
 Etc 55, 56 
 
 Hatching Eggs: 
 
 How Selected 13 
 
 Age of Hatching Eggs 14 
 
 Temperature for Hatching Eggs .... 14 
 
 Deformed or Speckled Egg, illustrated . . J i; 
 
 Season for Hatching 17 
 
 Number of Eggs to Hatch 17 
 
 Time Required to Hatch 19 
 
 Turning of Hatching Eggs, The .... 19 
 
 When and How to Test 20 
 
 Hover, The -5--7 
 
 How to Transfer Chicks from Incubator to 
 
 Brooder 21 
 
 Inbreeding 60 
 
 Incubation 17-21 
 
Index — Continued 
 
 Page 
 
 Incubator, Location of i8 
 
 Incubator Temperature, Governing . . . . 20, 21 
 
 Land to Secure and Hints to Help Buy It . . 73, 77 
 Laying House for from Eighty to One Hundred 
 
 Birds 37, 45 
 
 House Specifications 37-44 
 
 Corner and Front Views 3^, 39 
 
 How to Build Roosts, Nests and Drop Board 41 
 
 Nests, etc., illustrated 42 
 
 Mash Hopper Construction 43 
 
 Trap Door ... 44, 45 
 
 Lice and Mites 66 
 
 Litter for Chicks and Birds Matured . . . 34, 35 
 
 Manure, Use of 75> 76 
 
 Mash Hopper, Home-made, illustrated ... 32 
 
 Meat, Eggs, or both 11, 12, 13 
 
 Mites and Lice 66 
 
 Molting 56 
 
 Profits 77, 84 
 
 Records .7a 
 
 Roup 67 
 
 Shipping Baby Chicks 21 
 
 Soil, Kind of 74 
 
 Strong, Healthy Germ, Seven Days Old, illus- 
 trated 16 
 
 Temperament of Producers or Good Layers and 
 
 Non-Producers 50, 53, 54 
 
 Trees, Advantage of 74, 75 
 
 Water Supply 33, 34 
 
 White Diarrhoea 68, 69 
 
 White Leghorn as an Egg Producer, The . . 12 
 
Illustrations 
 
 Page 
 
 Coninicrcial Hen lO 
 
 Speckled Kgg 15 
 
 Infertile Egg 15 
 
 Live Germ at Seventh Day Testing. ... 16 
 
 Dead Germ at Seventh Day Testing ... 16 
 
 Large Ineuhator 18 
 
 Chick Box tor .Shipping 21 
 
 Brooder Houses 23 
 
 Interior Brooder House, showing coal Inirner 
 
 stove, hover and guard 25 
 
 Front View of Brocnler House 26 
 
 Chick lu)untain 28 
 
 Mash Hopper, Home-made 32 
 
 Laying House, Corner View ^S 
 
 Laying House, Front ^'iew 39 
 
 Nests, Drop Board and Roosts in Laying 
 
 House, cross section 41 
 
 Laving House Interior, showing nests ... 42 
 
 Mash Hopper in Laving House 43 
 
 Laying House Trap Door 45 
 
 Good Layer 46 
 
 Pelvic Arch, Good Laver and Non-Producer . 49 
 
 Wall Box for Overcoming Broodiness ... 57 
 
 Prize Cockerel 58 
 
 Rhode Island Red Meat Strain 61 
 
 Roup, Example of 67 
 
 Sick Chicks 68 
 
 Plymouth Rock Pullet 85 
 
.y^ O T E s 
 
:X T E s 
 
.:^C o T E s 
 
,7\C r E s 
 
.^ O T E S