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POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 AN 
 
 ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE ON THE YACHT 
 BLENCATHRA 
 
L 
 
 
 ' 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE 
 
 ON THE 
 
 YACHT 'BLENCATHRA' 
 
 BY / 
 HELEN PEEL 
 
 WITH A PREFACE BY 
 
 THE MARQUESS OF DUFFERIN AND AVA 
 
 AND CONTRIBUTIONS BY 
 CAPTAIN JOSEPH WIGGINS AND FREDERICK G. JACKSON 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 A. C. M^CLURG AND COMPANY 
 1894 
 
\tvb library! 
 
 Lf CONGRESS 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 3} °!<S5 
 
 40:' 
 
AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 
 TO MY FATHER, 
 
 £>tr l&obert peel, 
 
 IN DELIGHTFUL REMEMBRANCE 
 
 OF A CRUISE 
 
 THROUGH ARCTIC SEAS. 
 
PREFATORY NOTE 
 
 In entrusting the frail bark of a first literary 
 effort to an ocean more formidable than the 
 storm-abounding Arctic Sea, I shall reasonably 
 incur the charge of rashness. 
 
 As every effort, however, must have a begin- 
 ning, I can only prefix a few words of explana- 
 tion to my attempt, and tender an apology for 
 inviting public notice to a book which, I am 
 painfully aware, can pretend to no literary excel- 
 lence, but which, I trust, will be judged in the 
 same indulgent spirit that the House of Commons 
 extends to a " maiden speech." 
 
 In the compilation of the following pages, I 
 desired to guide my indulgent friends and readers 
 over comparatively unknown waters to the mighty 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Yenesei River, which issues from a region associ- 
 ated in the popular mind with much that is 
 horrible in climatic severity, and repugnant owing 
 to its being pictured as a gigantic and cruel 
 prison-house for political exiles ; but this river is 
 destined to become one of the great highways of 
 the world. 
 
 The ideas generally held of the great conti- 
 nent of Siberia are in many respects erroneous. 
 Travellers of renown have lately given to us 
 their personal experience of this immense country 
 and its infinite resources, and have thus helped 
 to dispel misconceptions and allay a tendency 
 to exaggerate obstacles to its development. 
 Siberia is at present undergoing a complete 
 transformation through the increased facilities of 
 navigation along its mighty rivers, and the 
 creation of the great railway now under con- 
 struction by the enterprise of the Russian Govern- 
 ment. It would be difficult to exasperate the 
 importance of this development. 
 
PRE FA TOR Y NO TE 
 
 The first nine chapters of my book give a 
 
 slight narrative of my voyage through arctic 
 
 waters. These are kindly supplemented with an 
 
 account by Captain Wiggins of his homeward 
 
 journey through Siberia, after he parted from the 
 
 Blencathra at Golchika to proceed up the 
 
 Yenesei ; and he also adds, at my request, some 
 
 notes on Dr. Nansen's expedition. These arctic 
 
 experiences are finally wound up in Chapter XII. 
 
 by a letter from Mr. Jackson, with a sketch of 
 
 the plan for his projected exploration and, if 
 
 possible, arrival at the North Pole, where it is 
 
 his patriotic ambition to be the first to plant 
 
 the standard of his native land and sing " God 
 
 save the Queen." 
 
 HELEN PEEL. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 BY THE MARQUESS OF DUFFERIN AND AVA 
 
 When my eldest son was a child of six or seven, 
 he slipped on the ice in a Canadian rink, and 
 broke a front tooth. After picking him up and 
 assuaging his tears, I asked him what had brought 
 about the catastrophe. He replied, " Papa, I was 
 running after a little girl." Seeking, like a prudent 
 parent, to improve the occasion, I told him that 
 this should be a lesson to him for the rest of his 
 life, as one always comes to grief when "one runs 
 after a little girl." 
 
 The echo of this excellent advice recurred to 
 my memory as I was drawn by the interest of her 
 narrative to follow my godchild, Miss Helen Peel, 
 on her voyage past Cape Wrath, the Shetland 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Islands and the North Cape, into the misty terrors 
 of the Kara Sea. I remember, as a yachtsman, 
 thinking it something of an achievement getting 
 as far as Iceland and the Lofoden Islands ; but 
 here is a young lady who carries us off to 
 Lapland, Waigatz Straits, the northern coasts of 
 Asia, and half way through the north-west pas- 
 sage, besides casting an occasional sheep's-eye at 
 the North Pole. Moreover, so far from her cor- 
 sage consisting of "oak and three-fold brass," as 
 the ingenuous Horace imagined, our authoress 
 seems to have left her sealskin jacket behind her, 
 and to have graced the Arctic Circle in a frock of 
 Cowes serge. That a last year's debutante should 
 thus exchange the shining floors, wax lights, and 
 valses of a London ball-room for the silent shores 
 of Novaia Zemlia and the Taimyr Peninsula, with 
 their accompaniments of ice-floes and winds fresh 
 from the cellars of Boreas, exhibits the untamable 
 audacity of our modern maidens. However, 
 she seems to have been quite satisfied with 
 
PREFACE xiii 
 
 the company she found in these shivering 
 regions, in the shape of walruses and uncon- 
 ventional Samoyedes ; 
 
 Quae siccis oculis monstra natantia 
 
 . . . vidit et 
 
 Infames scopulos Nordokeraunia. 
 
 In vain, indeed, as Horace adds, " has a prudent 
 Deity cut off such lands by the unsociable ocean, 
 if the impious yachts " of these young women thus 
 disquiet their hyperborean solitudes ! Neverthe- 
 less, having once taken the plunge, no one will 
 regret following in the wake of the Blencathra 
 from the old-world Elizabethan port of Appledore 
 to the mouths of the Mongolian Yenesei, under 
 the auspices of so enthusiastic and cheerful a 
 Minerva, who revels in the discomforts of the 
 North Sea as likely to give greater zest to future 
 joys, and remains philosophically in bed while her 
 ship runs aground on a sand-bank. Once only, 
 I observe, does her stoicism falter, when, in order 
 to save her own, she threw her arms round the 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 neck of her skin-clad Jehu, as she bumped over 
 brake and boulder at the tail of a team of mad- 
 cap Siberian reindeer. 
 
 In spite of these palpitating experiences, or 
 perhaps by reason of them, after what appears to 
 have been a delightful cruise, which has made us 
 appreciate better than ever the great benefits 
 rendered to commerce by her gallant companion 
 and fellow-navigator, Captain Wiggins, Miss Peel 
 sails back out of the mists of the north, rein- 
 vigorated in mind and body, and endeavours in 
 these pages to brighten our stay-at-home dulness 
 with the stored-up radiance of her midnight suns. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Preface, by the Marquess of Dufferin and Ava . . xi 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 My anticipations — The object of the expedition — The Great 
 Siberian Railway — Its possibilities — Our fleet — Westward 
 Ho ! — A conference with Captain Wiggins — I make acquaint- 
 ance with the Blencathra — Her history and build — Packing 
 in haste — The first night on board .... 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 We weigh anchor — Crossing the Arctic Circle — The beauties of 
 the fjords — We reach Tromsoe — A sleeping town — A Com- 
 mittee of Taste — The Lapps ; their dress and life — Provision- 
 ing — The northernmost town in the world . 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 The North Cape — The sad death of a red-pole — Vardoe at 
 last ! — Its chief characteristic — At chapel — A haul of fish — 
 Whaling — Mr. Jackson — Russian officers and the Russian 
 Consul — Society and cakes — Off again 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 A crow's nest — An arctic aspect — Novaia Zemlia — A Russian 
 man-of-war — The island of Waigatz — Visiting and storms 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 — The Samoyedes : their appearance, pursuits, and dress — 
 On the coast of Siberia — Priests and merchants — A rough 
 drive ....... 35 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 The Kara Sea — My arctic dress — Evenings on board — Walrus- 
 hunting — The Yalmal Peninsula — The Pet Straits — A 
 pleasant greeting at Golchika — Some voyages to death — 
 The expeditions of Captain Wiggins . . .51 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 Siberian convicts at work — A Samoyede household — A monoton- 
 ous stay — A prospect of adventure ends in disappointment 
 — About a reindeer sledge — A Samoyede cemetery — 
 Celebration of the Czar's birthday — A disaster and a storm 
 — After ptarmigan — A handy vessel— I bid farewell to the 
 River Yenesei . . . . . .66 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Homeward bound — Cold, gales, and fog — Aground — We again 
 meet Mr. Jackson — We steer for Archangel — The Kola 
 Peninsula and the White Sea — We surprise the Custom- 
 House officers — In the Dwina — We reach Solombola . 88 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 The city of Archangel — Its trade, rise, and decline — A drive in a 
 droshki — Lunch and Russian music — We visit the Museum 
 and the Cathedral — Fairs and furs — The love of vodka — A 
 shooting party — The Monastery of Solavetski — We part 
 company with the Orestes . . . . .104 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Calm and storm — We call for letters at Vardoe — The aurora 
 borealis — Rounding the North Cape — 121 lbs. of fish for 
 two shillings — The northernmost lighthouse in the world — 
 A sail by night to Tromsoe — A Norwegian table oThdte — 
 Adventures on the fjords — Trondhyem and Christiansund — 
 Through troubled waters to Dundee . . .119 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Contributed by Captain Joseph Wiggins. 
 
 I start for Yeneseisk in the Offtzine — Our welcome at Yeneseisk — 
 A thanksgiving-service and banquet — Energetic citizens — Pre- 
 paring for an overland journey — Taking farewell — Our start 
 for home — A Christmas dinner at Tomsk — New Year's Day 
 at Omsk — An extraordinary caravan — Rail at last — A railway 
 accident — Cheliabinsk — A conference at St. Petersburg . 147 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 Some Remarks on Dr. Nansen's Polar Expedition . 1 74 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 A Letter from Frederick G. Jackson on his proposed Polar 
 
 Expedition . . . . . .185 
 
 APPENDIX A 
 
 The Great Siberian Railway . . . 193 
 
 APPENDIX B 
 
 Some Extracts from the Blencathra's Log-book . . 204 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Portrait of Miss Peel 
 
 The Yacht Blencathra. 
 
 A Snap-Shot at Tromsoe 
 
 A Lapp Settlement 
 
 Lapps 
 
 Skinning a Whale at Vardoe 
 
 A Samoyede Settlement 
 
 Ice-Floes 
 
 A Reindeer Sledge 
 
 Portrait of F. Leybourne Popham 
 
 Archangel from the Dwina . 
 
 The North Cape, from a Sketch 
 
 Our Eskimo Dog 
 
 Portrait of Captain Wiggins 
 
 Cathedral and Town of Yeneseisk 
 
 Portrait of Frederick G. Jackson 
 
 Map of the Sea Route to Siberia 
 Map of the Great Siberian Railway 
 
 Frontispiece 
 To face page 8 
 16 
 20 
 26 
 
 3° 
 46 
 
 52 
 72 
 92 
 112 
 124 
 134 
 147 
 152 
 
 1S5 
 
 1 
 166 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 My anticipations — The object of the expedition — The Great 
 Siberian Railway — Its possibilities — Our fleet — Westward 
 Ho! — A conference with Captain Wiggins — I make ac- 
 quaintance with the Blencathra — Her history and build — 
 Packing in haste — The first night on board. 
 
 She is off to the North Pole ! was the ex- 
 clamation of my friends, as I left London on 
 the 1 8th of July 1893, bound for Siberia, the 
 grim and rueful land of many sorrows, as we 
 have learned to think of it. 
 
 Youth and love of adventure inspired me 
 with a longing for new experiences, regardless 
 of unforeseen perils and friendly warnings. 
 
 I only felt elated with the thought of a visit 
 to arctic regions, unlike all that I had hitherto 
 seen and enjoyed in fairer climes. 
 
 The terrors of the sea to an inexperienced 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 and bad sailor are no doubt formidable draw- 
 backs, but they were overborne, as were all 
 other anticipated dangers, by a weird resistless 
 impulse to sail through the icebergs of the 
 Kara Sea, up the mighty Yenesei River, and to 
 be the first of my sex to do so. All this was 
 sufficient to determine me to accept an invita- 
 tion for such an enterprise, even though we 
 should not exactly reach the goal of so much 
 ambition, and solve the problem whether or 
 not we might feast on strawberries and cream 
 at the North Pole. 
 
 The object of this important expedition, under 
 contract with the Russian Government, was to 
 take a cargo of 1600 tons of rails for the Great 
 Siberian Railway, in course of construction, 
 which will probably occupy twelve years to 
 build, and entail the enormous expenditure of 
 350 million roubles for the seven Cheliabinsk- 
 Vladivostock sections. Its total lengths, reckon- 
 ing from Libau on the shores of the Baltic Sea 
 to Vladivostock on the Pacific coast, will be over 
 some 7000 miles, and, when complete, will form 
 
THE GREA T RAIL WA Y 
 
 a continuous iron girdle of railway communica- 
 tion encircling the whole earth. The Czarevitch 
 cut the first sod at Vladivostock on the 24th of 
 May 1 89 1. In reality the Great Siberian Railway 
 embraces a very wide zone, the enormous area 
 exceeding the whole extent of central Europe, 
 Germany, Austro- Hungary, Holland, Belgium, 
 and Denmark, and the route chosen connecting 
 the extensive basins of such large rivers as the 
 Obi, Yenesei, Amour, and part of the Lena. It 
 is difficult for the imagination to conceive the 
 immense extent of the earth's surface, hitherto 
 scarcely known or recognised, which will be 
 opened up by this great railroad, or what pro- 
 gressive impetus may be given to international 
 commercial enterprise by the development of 
 such great sources of wealth, and consequent 
 happiness, to overgrown populations. 
 
 To the great nation in whose sovereignty these 
 new territories are comprised, the railway will 
 certainly bring increased political importance, and 
 no doubt they will prove to be of service to other 
 nations, as well indeed to mankind in general, not 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 much less than to the people by whose energy 
 and public spirit they have, one may truly say, 
 been just called into existence. The prosperity 
 of one people, rightly understood and used, will 
 turn out to be the prosperity of all others brought 
 into mutual commercial relations with them, in 
 which colonisation will no doubt play an important 
 part. 
 
 Accordingly a small fleet of three vessels was 
 fitted out. The arctic steam - yacht BlencatJira 
 was to act as convoy to the Orestes, a large 
 powerful steamer of 2500 tons' burden on light 
 draught, chartered from London for the purpose 
 of conveying rails to Siberia, with another steel 
 shallow draught steam -yacht to carry 250 tons' 
 cargo and some gold -mining machinery. This 
 latter vessel was called the Minusinsk, after a city 
 situated on the Yenesei River, being one of the 
 Nijni Novgorods of Siberia for trading in 
 grains, etc. 
 
 In addition to this little fleet we were to be 
 joined at Vardoe, in North Norway, by three 
 steamers, under the command of Russian officers 
 
OUR FLEET 
 
 of the Imperial Navy. Their vessels, built at 
 Dumbarton on the Clyde, consisted of a twin- 
 screw steamer, Lieutenant Offtzine, under the 
 command of Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy ; a paddle- 
 steamer, Lieutenant Malyguine, under the com- 
 mand of Lieutenant Svede ; and a schooner-barge, 
 Scuratoff, commanded by Lieutenant Sunderman. 
 
 These vessels were entirely manned by Russian 
 naval officers and sailors, with Russian engineers. 
 
 This imposing fleet of six vessels was to form 
 the most important expedition that had ever 
 crossed the much dreaded Kara Sea, and the rails 
 taken by the Orestes were to be the first cargo 
 of such heavy material ever conveyed by sea to 
 Siberia. 
 
 We may now confidently expect to find a regular 
 yearly service between England and Siberia fully 
 established, and doubtless in time a trade of 
 considerable dimensions will grow up. For the 
 natural wealth of Siberia is well known to be 
 enormous, and, apart from this, the sea route is 
 open to navigation two to three months or more 
 out of the twelve. 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Bideford, pleasantly situated in the delicious 
 scenery of North Devon, was the place of our 
 " rendezvous " and five days' stay. It is far too 
 remarkable, alike for its history and unequalled 
 attractions, to need any introductory notice, for 
 who has not read Kingsley's Westward Ho ! a 
 tale so closely associated with the old town ? At 
 an early period Bideford had achieved fame. In 
 Elizabethan and Stuart times it was one of the 
 chief naval and commercial ports of England ; and 
 among the first settlers of Virginia and Carolina 
 were Sir Walter Raleigh and other distinguished 
 
 heroes of that town. 
 
 We lost no time wandering over the exquisite 
 country of which Clovelly and Westward Ho 
 are in themselves delightful attractions, fanned 
 by the fresh ocean breeze of the Atlantic. 
 
 In the conference room of the Royal Hotel, 
 which dates from 1688, we discussed our arctic 
 expedition with Captain Joseph Wiggins, the 
 well-known Sunderland navigator, whose name 
 and established reputation are widely recognised. 
 Discoverer of the ocean route to Siberia in 1874, 
 
CAPTAIN WIGGINS 
 
 he is a man of great nautical experience and 
 genius, and of delightful conversational powers ; 
 his characteristic physique testifies to an enter- 
 prising nature, and to thorough acquaintance with 
 the perils and dangers of arctic sea life. 
 
 Captain Wiggins impressed me at once, and 
 filled us all with such unbounded confidence 
 that, had the most perilous circumstances arisen, 
 we should have placed ourselves unreservedly 
 under his command. 
 
 My first acquaintance with the ship, which was 
 to be my home for so many months, took place on 
 the 20th of July. It was anchored some two 
 miles above the bar, at the meeting of the 
 Torridge and the Taw, off the little white fishing 
 village of Appledore, which is associated with an 
 interesting historical fact, being the port from 
 which King Alfred destroyed the Danish fleet in 
 894. 
 
 All who are interested in yachting have no 
 doubt heard of the old Pandora, built in 1867 as a 
 gunboat, and then purchased by Sir Allan Young. 
 Her name was then changed into that of Blen- 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 cathra, the name of a mountain in Cumberland, 
 by the present owner, Mr. F. Leybourne Popham, 
 to whom I am not only indebted for this interesting 
 cruise but for several months of kind hospitality. 
 
 The Blencathra is a three - master rigged 
 schooner, 424 tons, 146 feet long, 25 feet broad, 
 12 feet depth, and being a vessel intended for 
 arctic seas she is entirely built of wood, and was 
 fitted with an ice - ram in anticipation of the 
 impediments to free progress in the Kara Sea. 
 
 Her deck cabins constituted her great charm ; 
 they included four comfortable berths, with bath- 
 rooms, and the main cabin, in which most of our 
 days were spent, was furnished both with a piano 
 and an organum, the attractions of which, during 
 the whole of the voyage, were of never-failing 
 delight. Her lower cabin was supplied with six 
 months' stores, in view of the possibility of being 
 nipped in the ice. 
 
 Our party consisted of two ladies and two 
 gentlemen, and a crew numbering twenty-four. 
 
 On the 24th of July a sudden and early start 
 was made by train to Instow. It was the 
 
AS *S 
 
 ^ 
 
 x — 
 
 < ~ 
 
A HURRIED START 
 
 humour of the gentlemen who were of our party 
 to think and decide a course of action with impul- 
 sive speed. " No sooner said than done" would 
 have been a suitable motto. The worst of this 
 disposition was that the ladies were expected to 
 follow suit, and to pack up their numerous 
 impedimenta and carry out the programme set 
 before them with the utmost haste. In ten 
 minutes we were to be at the station, and the 
 scramble, bustle, and confusion that ensued can 
 be more easily imagined than described, whilst 
 dozens of parcels, boxes, and wraps were strewn 
 in untidy appearance on the platform, as we had 
 simply pitched everything pell - mell into our 
 trunks, heedless of consequences — summer 
 fripperies and fur -lined snowboots, mosquito 
 nets and hot-water bottles jostling one another 
 in hopeless confusion, since we were obliged 
 to provide ourselves alike against summer heat 
 and the cold of an arctic winter. 
 
 A few minutes' rail conveyed us to Instow, 
 from which a boat landed us on board the 
 Blencathra. 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 My first night at sea will ever remain memor- 
 able. 
 
 Everything was new and strange to me. 
 
 How small my berth looked, how unsettled I 
 felt! 
 
 Even the invigorating freshness of the sea 
 was scarcely relished. I began to realise that 
 my golden anticipations would soon reveal them- 
 selves under the test of practice. 
 
 No ! my heart failed me as I wondered how 
 I could have fallen such a victim to my rashness 
 in undertaking the enterprise. Dreams and 
 nightmares also capped my imaginings, reveal- 
 ing before my eyes visions of waves mountains 
 high, gales, polar bears, icebergs, and myself 
 denuded of nose, ears, fingers, and toes, and 
 consequently exiled as a recluse from all social 
 intercourse for the rest of my days. But "no- 
 thing venture, nothing have," so I resolved to 
 screw up my courage to the sticking point, and 
 brave the dangers which perhaps existed only in 
 my imagination. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 We weigh anchor — Crossing the Arctic Circle — The beauties of 
 the fjords — We reach Tromsoe — A sleeping town — A Com- 
 mittee of Taste — The Lapps ; their dress and life — Pro- 
 visioning — The northernmost town in the world. 
 
 Amid loud and hearty cheers the Blencathra 
 weighed anchor on the 25th of July from Apple- 
 dore, and at 4 p.m. successfully crossed the bar, 
 notwithstanding the falling tide. 
 
 On reaching the open sea we encountered a 
 heavy storm, so that scarcely had we "shaken 
 down " when we were fairly "shaken up " again. 
 
 I did full justice to my reputation as a bad 
 sailor, nor did I fail in this respect through- 
 out the voyage whenever a sea got up. Our 
 skipper, Captain Brown, a native of Dundee, 
 took pity on me, and prescribed a bottle of 
 Yorkshire relish, but thinking the cure worse 
 than the complaint, I declined his offer. 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 For twenty-four hours we pitched and tossed 
 considerably, but my companions, unaffected by 
 the heavy sea into which we dived, kept the 
 deck, and delighted in the grandeur of the 
 stormy waters. 
 
 On the 27th of July we reached Holyhead, 
 and, after stopping to drop our Appledore pilot, 
 we resumed our northerly course. A dead calm 
 prevailed, and as we coasted along we thoroughly 
 enjoyed the wild weird scenery of Scotland's 
 coast. 
 
 Everything was now ship-shape ; we began to 
 feel quite at home with one another, as we became 
 inured to our surroundings and better acquainted. 
 
 At Cape Wrath, a distance of 500 miles had 
 already been accomplished. On the 30th July we 
 steered east of the Shetlands, and were greeted 
 with a nasty head - wind. How we tossed and 
 rolled again, as a plaything of the waves, reckless 
 of our discomfort. I, with most awkward sea 
 legs, was bruised all over. My berth happened 
 to be a particularly wide one, a defect which 
 greatly interfered with my sleep, for when the 
 
THE FJORDS 13 
 
 ship rolled heavily it was all I could do to avoid 
 being pitched out, for to cling to both sides was a 
 feat not easily accomplished. 
 
 On the 3rd of August we crossed the Arctic 
 Circle, which passes through the Fraenen Island, 
 in the meridian of 1 3 degrees east of Greenwich. 
 In brilliant sunshine we distinguished the snow- 
 capped mountains of Norway, while to our left 
 rose the majestic peaks of the Lofoden Islands. 
 I must here note that we had provided ourselves 
 with a pilot from Bergen, and were thus enabled 
 to steer at leisure into the fjords, and our course 
 led us through the Vest Fjord, which opened out 
 a scene of marvellous grandeur. The view was 
 glorious — everything still and calm, even the 
 water seemed immovable, so perfect were the 
 reflections from the sharp outlines of the 
 mountains. 
 
 And then from day to day new beauties re- 
 vealed themselves. One of the great charms of 
 the fjords is the uncertainty of knowing in what 
 direction the next turn may lead, as no outlet 
 is visible. Sometimes one passes between wild 
 
i 4 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 perpendicular cliffs, again along smiling shores 
 fringed in the distance by well-wooded hills. It 
 is the wonderful blending of the gentle and peace- 
 ful with the wild, rugged yet sublime aspects of 
 nature which is so characteristic of Norwegian 
 scenery. Small villages with sparsely scattered 
 houses now and again dot the landscape. Built 
 of wood and painted terra-cotta and white, they 
 appear in the distance like miniature dolls' houses. 
 
 The extraordinary effects of light and shade in 
 these high latitudes are quite enchanting. Al- 
 though we missed seeing the phenomenon of the 
 midnight sun, we enjoyed almost continuous day- 
 light. It seemed so strange to think of "turning 
 in " while the sun was shining brightly, remind- 
 ing me of the late hours of London dances. 
 
 Such thoughts, however, were soon dispelled 
 by a further contemplation of the scenery which 
 surrounded us. Great was our excitement when, 
 for the first time since leaving Appledore, we 
 dropped anchor at 3.30 a.m. on the 5th of August at 
 Tromsoe. Nestling under the protection of high 
 hills, the town is situated by the water's edge, on 
 
TROMSOE 15 
 
 the east side of an island. The approach was 
 quite lovely. A number of fishing smacks and 
 walrus sloops were anchored off the beach. So 
 eager were we to go ashore and get a glimpse of 
 Norwegian life that, regardless of the hour, we 
 dressed and paraded the town in search of ad- 
 ventures : all was, however, shrouded in the dull 
 silence of sleep. In vain we rung at hotel doors, 
 every portal was locked and bolted. But after 
 some patient waiting there appeared signs of life. 
 The curiosity of the inhabitants was soon dis- 
 played. No wonder ! for the tourist season was 
 at an end, and consequently our voices must have 
 sounded unfamiliar. On we walked, laughing and 
 joking, appearing in the stillness of the town 
 somewhat boisterous in our hilarity, followed by 
 our three dogs, whose wild spirits, in harmony 
 with our own, were not to be checked. We paid 
 no regard to the slumbering town, but we were 
 not to pass unperceived. Behind every shutter 
 lurked a nightcap, under every nightcap peered 
 inquisitive eyes, set in delicate pink and white 
 frames. Certainly their owners seemed attractive ! 
 
1 6 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Finally, tired and hungry, and at the moment 
 sorely tried by what we deemed the laziness of the 
 inhabitants, we rowed back to the ship, to find on 
 our return to Tromsoe, several hours later, the 
 town presenting quite a different and most 
 animated aspect. The gentlemen formed a Com- 
 mittee of Taste, to pass judgment on the young 
 and pretty inhabitants of the town, who seemed 
 quite to realise their expectations. It happened 
 to be market - day, and the crowds about the 
 market-place were great. The majority were 
 Lapps, who in the summer time leave their en- 
 campments to purchase provisions for the winter 
 months. The first Lapp I saw was an elderly- 
 looking unattractive man, of very diminutive 
 stature, and being armed with a camera I instantly 
 fixed the lens upon him. He was quite infuriated 
 and, I believe, thought it was some infernal 
 machine, or that I was bringing him under some 
 magical spell, for he squeaked and gesticulated in 
 a very comical manner. 
 
 Unfortunately I was at a disadvantage in my 
 interpretation of his capers and expressions of 
 
A Snap-Shot at Tromsoe. 
 
 To face page 16. 
 
LAPLAND COSTUMES 17 
 
 indignation. He was clothed in his winter 
 garments, which consisted of a long tunic of rein- 
 deer skin falling just below the knees, and belted 
 up by a leathern girdle, to which was suspended 
 the inevitable knife, with which from time im- 
 memorial almost all Scandinavians have been 
 armed. The lower part of the dress was a sort 
 of legging, also made of reindeer skins. A sub- 
 stitute for stockings was found in the soft dried 
 grass, called sena, with which the fur shoes were 
 well stuffed, and a long narrow band was twisted 
 several times tightly round the ankle, to prevent 
 the possibility of any snow coming in. His head- 
 dress was a sort of cloth cap turned up all round 
 with a facing of reindeer fur. In summer the 
 Lapps wear a dark blue homespun cloth dress 
 decorated with bright colours, which have special 
 attractions for them, and coming as we did between 
 the cold and warm season, we saw both these 
 characteristic toilettes. On wedding and feast 
 days in particular they display most gaudy attires. 
 It is this variety of colour which makes the Lap- 
 land costumes so very picturesque. 
 
i8 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 The women are very like the men, both in 
 aspect and costume, in fact I could hardly tell the 
 difference between them. The average height 
 rarely exceeds 5 feet. They have small elongated 
 eyes, high cheek-bones, tanned complexions, and 
 their hair is generally of a dark colour. A few 
 sparse hairs constitute the beards of the men. 
 which are thus almost imperceptible. The baby 
 Lapps are wrapped in their cradles like little 
 mummies. 
 
 The origin of the Lapps is somewhat obscure, 
 but they seem to be closely connected with the 
 Samoyedes and Eskimos. They depend to some 
 extent upon the reindeer for sustenance as well as 
 for locomotion ; moreover, nature is so bountiful 
 in providing fish that the Lapps are thus also 
 liberally supplied. They have large encampments 
 in a neighbouring valley, which it would have 
 been interesting to visit, but as time pressed we. 
 were unable to do so. 
 
 At the Russian consulate we engaged two ice- 
 masters for the Kara Sea, and attracted much 
 interest and curiosity by the rumour of our 
 
THE NORWEGIANS 19 
 
 intended cruise to Siberia. The fact of English 
 ladies venturing through the Kara Sea, willing 
 to encounter obstacles and even perils, with 
 nothing apparently to tempt them but adventure, 
 quite staggered them, and we were no doubt 
 instantly put down as mad and eccentric English- 
 women, not likely to be heard of again. 
 
 The Norwegians struck me by their likeness 
 to the English, the women more especially so. 
 With very fair hair and blue eyes, they have fine 
 profiles and elongated faces, with fresh pink and 
 white complexions. The universal head-dress is 
 a plain or coloured handkerchief tied under the 
 chin in a most becoming fashion. The Nor- 
 wegians looked serious and sombre, with nothing 
 of the vivacity of the children of a southern 
 clime. 
 
 Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown to 
 them. I noticed their beautiful little horses, 
 which in size are really more like ponies. They 
 appear to be in good condition and very gentle 
 in temper, probably from the fact of being well 
 cared for and kindly treated, whips, I am told, 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 being rarely used in Norway, while their harness 
 is most primitive, though embracing all essentials. 
 
 Meanwhile the Blencathra had been stocked 
 with fresh provisions, and at i p.m. we returned 
 on board, delighted with our morning gleanings. 
 Two hours later we weighed anchor, steaming 
 through scenery simply superb. Such a moving 
 panorama can, I am sure, rarely be met with. 
 So once again we directed our course toward the 
 North. 
 
 The next harbour touched at was Hammerfest. 
 a nice clean-looking place, very modern in appear- 
 ance, from the fact of its having, some four years 
 ago, been completely destroyed by fire and conse- 
 quently rebuilt ; its surroundings are extremely 
 barren, hardly a shrub to be seen, and only- 
 rocks piled upon each other. We lowered the 
 boats and rowed ashore, intending to ship another 
 ice-master. The pier was crowded with small 
 boys and girls, who followed our steps in such 
 numbers that we wondered what freak the high 
 latitudes had worked in our outward appearance. 
 The Russian Consul having been called out of 
 
THE NORTHERNMOST TOWN 21 
 
 church to satisfy our inquiries, we heard that our 
 third ice-master had left the day before to join us 
 at Vardoe. 
 
 Hammerfest, on closer inspection, revealed 
 nothing of interest ; but it has a well-sheltered 
 harbour, in which floated several Russian fishing- 
 smacks from the White Sea, from whence they 
 carry on an active trade. The air was pervaded 
 with a strong smell of cod-liver and train oil, a 
 faint foretaste of the putrid atmosphere we were 
 about to inhale at Vardoe ; so with nothing to 
 tempt us ashore we returned on board the Blen- 
 catkra, bidding farewell to the most northern 
 town in the world. It certainly seemed strange 
 to realise that in a few hours we were to find our- 
 selves in the same latitude as the island of Jan 
 Mayen. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 The North Cape — The sad death of a red-pole — Vardoe at last ! 
 — Its chief characteristic — At chapel — A haul of fish — 
 Whaling — Mr. Jackson — Russian officers and the Russian 
 Consul — Society and cakes — Off again. 
 
 Northward Ho ! 
 
 Yes, indeed, I felt very much like going 
 towards the mysterious Pole as we sailed from 
 Hammerfest out of reach of civilised life, away 
 from all turmoil and feverish bustle, to the land of 
 the midnight sun and the aurora borealis. Curious 
 sensations took possession of me, most difficult 
 to describe. I felt stimulated by the thought of 
 unknown regions, and excited by the exhilarat- 
 ing air, which seemed not only to purify one's 
 thoughts, but also helped to brush away con- 
 ventional cobwebs from the brain. 
 
 As we advanced, the coast scenery towards 
 the North Cape became wilder and more deso- 
 
A PROSPECT FOR TOURISTS 23 
 
 late. The mountains present themselves with 
 more deterring ruggedness and become strik- 
 ingly Alpine in character, bringing home to me 
 panoramas of Swiss scenery, familiar from child- 
 hood. 
 
 What a delightful prospect in view for tourists, 
 to whom this wild scenery is yet unknown. 
 Variety of form and outline is here displayed at 
 every new turn, scene upon scene following each 
 other with such rapidity that one never gets 
 tired of gazing, but, on the contrary, one's interest 
 increases. Often, as I sat up on deck, I felt in- 
 clined to regret not being endowed with the 
 talent of an artist. What a region indeed for 
 the painter's brush ! How glorious the colouring ! 
 
 Instead of rounding the North Cape we 
 steamed through a narrow fjord between the 
 mainland of Finmark and the wild-looking island 
 of Mageroe, in which is situated the North Cape. 
 It seemed disappointing at first, but, as it turned 
 out, we enjoyed a far finer view of these dark 
 perpendicular headlands decked in winter's garb 
 on our return voyage. 
 
24 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 It became very cold as we steamed along 
 the northern coast of Finmark, and was raining 
 heavily. Several little red-poles flew on board 
 and settled on the rigging. We happened to 
 have an owl, brought with the purpose of intro- 
 ducing it into Siberia, and a shivering little red- 
 pole was unmercifully caught alive and given to 
 the owl, who instantly attempted to swallow it, 
 feathers and all. Arriving on the scene at that 
 moment, my indignation was aroused by this act 
 of cruelty. However, the owl's position was at 
 the same time extremely comical — there it stood, 
 half choking, with open beak and only the bird's 
 tail showing. At last after a deal of effort the tail 
 disappeared, but fairly did for the owl, who died 
 next day. 
 
 At last we came in view of Vardoe, a goal we 
 had been ardently looking forward to. On the 7th 
 of August we dropped anchor inside the harbour, 
 among quite a fleet of fishing boats and sailing 
 vessels. We found the Minusinsk, one of the 
 ships which formed part of our fleet through 
 the Kara Sea, awaiting our arrival. The three 
 
VARDOE 25 
 
 Russian ships were still on their way north from 
 Dumbarton, and the Orestes, under the command 
 of Captain Wiggins, was expected from day to 
 day. The harbour-master came on board, and 
 after all the usual formalities had been observed, 
 we went ashore in a pouring rain to get letters 
 and send telegrams, and make the acquaintance 
 of the British Vice-Consul, who in nationality is 
 a Norwegian. 
 
 Vardoe, where we spent more than a fortnight, 
 requires only a few words to render its description 
 complete. 
 
 Forming an H -shaped island, situated at some 
 distance from the Varanger Fjord, the town 
 consists of wooden houses clustering round the 
 harbour. None are more than two storeys high, 
 as a precaution against the violence of the gales. 
 I noticed most of the roofs were of turf, with 
 such lovely green grass that goats are to be seen 
 grazing away on the top of them. Such a novel 
 effect ! 
 
 The old castle of VardoehuiAs, the most northerly 
 fort in Europe, is the one object of slight interest. 
 
26 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 To return, however, to Vardoe's chief charac- 
 teristic. Any one who has been there will 
 undoubtedly associate it with terrible odours, to 
 put it mildly, although a stronger and more 
 vulgar appellation would be much more to the 
 point, for the air is simply saturated with the 
 smell of fish, in almost every stage of decom- 
 position, in fact Vardoe may be said to be almost 
 made up of wooden frames, on which are hung 
 to dry in the sun thousands upon thousands of 
 fish and cods' heads, the latter for sale, and to be 
 exported as guano. 
 
 The harbour is made very lively with troops 
 of fishermen, who carry on an enormous trade. 
 The crafts from the White Sea particularly 
 attracted my attention, not from a fishing or a 
 nasal point of view, but from the fact of the 
 Russian fishermen being so extremely handsome 
 and kind-looking as to excite my admiration, a 
 weakness which on future acquaintance with 
 Russians only increased, for being tall and well- 
 built, with full long fair beards, they present a 
 striking appearance in their pink worsted shirts. 
 
Lapps. 
 
 To face page 26. 
 
AT CHURCH 27 
 
 The fortnight spent at Vardoe was anything 
 but pleasant, nothing but smell, cold, and rain. 
 We made the best of it, however. 
 
 One Sunday morning we attended divine 
 service in the Norwegian Church, conducted 
 after the Lutheran system. The fashion is 
 curious. One aisle is reserved for the women, 
 the other one occupied by men. The pastor was 
 robed in a black gown with a white ruff-collar, 
 recalling the fashion of Queen Elizabeth's time. 
 The rapidity of his delivery was astonishing, and 
 as not a word of what he said was understood by 
 us, we grew extremely impatient. But that was 
 not all. The majority of men were Lapps and 
 fishermen, who imparted to us every variety of 
 smell, which they abundantly wafted from their 
 clothes and persons. No sooner was the sermon 
 over than we made a rush for the door, to escape 
 from this poisonous atmosphere. 
 
 One day we sallied forth on a fishing expedi- 
 tion, having previously engaged two Norwegian 
 fishermen to show us how the trade was carried 
 on. Accordingly we steamed off in the Minu- 
 
28 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 sinsk, and towed at the same time out of the har- 
 bour a large Russian cargo boat, whose crew — it 
 being only a sailing vessel — had been waiting for 
 more than three weeks for a breeze, and were 
 deeply grateful to us for our help. 
 
 Some few miles off the coast we dropped 
 our trawls, which were short lines with 1200 
 baited hooks attached to them. Leaving them 
 for a few hours, we steamed on and began fishing 
 merely with bright hooks, pulling them up and 
 down as fast as we could. A kind of reel was 
 fastened to the side of the ship, thus facilitating 
 the hauling up of cod, haddock, halibut, 
 plaice, etc. Most of them weighed as much 
 as twenty pounds, and a gaff had to be used 
 to haul them up. So numerous were they that 
 scarcely had we dropped our hooks than we felt 
 a fish rushing to meet its fate. The sport was 
 most exciting, and the number of fish caught 
 almost too great to be believed. 
 
 Returning towards evening to pick up our 
 trawls, we found very nearly every hook occu- 
 pied, — a strange sight. In fact the little rowing 
 
WHALING 29 
 
 boat was quite weighed down by them, so that 
 the slightest misadventure might have capsized 
 it. The water is simply alive with fish, and con- 
 sequently the price of the largest cod or haddock 
 hardly ever exceeds a penny. 
 
 On another occasion we visited the whaling 
 station at some short distance from Vardoe, and, 
 as luck would have it, a large whale happened to 
 be towed in behind a small whaling steamer. 
 They are now captured by means of explosive 
 shells. We landed to have a look over the fac- 
 tories, determined to brave the terrible nauseous 
 obstacle, which to windward was something 
 dreadful. The processes of manufacture which 
 the poor dead body of the whale has to undergo 
 before being ready for shipment is astonishing. 
 After almost every part of the body has been 
 made use of, the carcasses are left on the beach 
 in a state of decomposition, waiting to be shipped 
 for uses similar to that of guano. It is this which 
 infects the air for miles around. 
 
 On the 7th of August we found the Orestes 
 anchored in the harbour. Captain Wiggins had 
 
30 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 arrived during the night straight from Middles- 
 borough, having as a passenger a young English- 
 man, Mr. Jackson. His object was to take 
 advantage of our voyage through the Kara Sea 
 to get dropped on the coast of the Yalmal Pen- 
 insula, for the purpose of exploring the interior. 
 
 Overmastered by the idea of being the first 
 to fly the Union Jack from the North Pole, and 
 exasperated at the thought of the probable suc- 
 cess of Dr. Nansen depriving him of the glory in 
 view, he resolved to spend the winter in these 
 high latitudes in order to get acclimatised to the 
 rigour of arctic temperature, and to prepare him- 
 self for the feat of hoisting the British flag on 
 the North Pole in the event of its being unoccu- 
 pied by the flag of Norway. 
 
 On the 17th August great excitement was 
 caused at Vardoe by the arrival of the Russian 
 naval officers on board three light draught 
 steamers, which had just been built on the Clyde 
 for Siberian river-work. They consisted of a 
 paddle-boat, a screw, and a schooner, and were 
 under the command of Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy. 
 
A DINNER PARTY 31 
 
 Anxious to make their acquaintance, we 
 proposed to give a dinner party. At 7.30 p.m. 
 we sat down to a merry repast, and among 
 the invited were Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy ; Mr. 
 Holmboe, the Russian Vice-Consul, and his cousin 
 Miss Holmboe ; Mr. Bereniskoff, the Russian 
 Consul-General, and Dr. Bunge, who has acquired 
 great distinction by his scientific inquiries into 
 the history of the mammoths during his five 
 years' stay on the desolate New Siberian Islands. 
 I was delighted with the company ; they struck 
 me as being extremely amiable and full of kind- 
 ness, and we very soon made closer and more 
 familiar acquaintance. After dinner we had 
 music, followed next night by another entertain- 
 ment on a larger scale. Ten officers came to 
 spend the evening, and some of them joined their 
 musical capacities to ours, so that besides having 
 a piano and an organum, a violin and a flute, 
 we had the mandolin, guitar, and human voices. 
 It was difficult to conceive our not being in 
 familiar surroundings instead of on the thresh- 
 old of Polar Seas. 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 The Russian Consul was a great character, 
 tall and strongly built, and full of humour. One 
 Sunday we went in a little steam-launch to 
 inspect the rocky island of Horno, situated to 
 the right of Vardoe, taking the Consul with us. 
 The sea was very rough, and the waves quite 
 alarmed me. We landed on the island, teeming 
 with sea-birds of all kinds, which filled the air 
 with their incessant cries. Never had I seen 
 such numbers of gulls and eider ducks. After 
 much exertion we climbed to the top of the rocks, 
 which are entirely devoid of any shrubs, com- 
 manding a splendid view over a large stretch of 
 the Arctic Ocean. With the help of the Consul's 
 strong arm I quickly descended, and soon all of us 
 were seated in a clean wooden hut, refreshing 
 ourselves with cream. 
 
 Norwegian hospitality and kindness are almost 
 proverbial. While a large spread was being given 
 at the Russian Consul's to all the naval officers 
 and gentlemen of our party, we were asked by 
 Mrs. Holmboe and her daughter to an enter- 
 tainment, which was held at i p.m. Our meal 
 
OUR PROVISIONS 33 
 
 consisted of chocolate and cakes, certainly most 
 delicious. The Norwegians' principal repast is 
 usually served at 4 p.m., following the German 
 custom. The iron stoves that are found in 
 almost every house are terrible pieces of furniture. 
 They are several feet high, and in a very few 
 minutes the room becomes absolutely stifling. 
 Accustomed as English people are to enjoy 
 plenty of fresh air, this close atmosphere made 
 me feel very uncomfortable. 
 
 Vardoe is not without a history, for it has been 
 the rendezvous of distinguished arctic explorers, 
 such as Sir Hugh Willoughby, Chancellor, Pet, 
 Barents, so long as three centuries ago ; and 
 recently and frequently of Captain Wiggins, and 
 of Dr. Nansen's expedition in search of the 
 North Pole. 
 
 At last we began to think of leaving Vardoe. 
 Meantime a fresh stock of provisions had been 
 laid in to satisfy our wants during our arctic 
 expedition. In fact the front part of the 
 ship looked more like a sort of floating farm- 
 yard, — sheep, hens, ducks, and rabbits were to 
 
34 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 provide us with plenty of fresh food, and a 
 dear little goat was to supply us daily with 
 fresh milk. 
 
 On the 22nd August the three Russian steamers, 
 accompanied by the Minusinsk, sailed out of 
 the harbour. Anxious to wait for the mail boat, 
 which we hoped might bring us our last good 
 tidings from home, we remained till the following 
 day, when the Orestes and Blencathra followed 
 the rest of the squadron and put out to sea. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 A crow's nest — An arctic aspect — Novaia Zemlia — A Russian 
 man-of-war — The island of Waigatz — Visiting and storms 
 — The Samoyedes : their appearance, pursuits, and dress — 
 On the coast of Siberia — Priests and merchants — A rough 
 drive. 
 
 A bright sunny morning favoured our departure 
 from Vardoe, as the Blencathra and Orestes 
 weighed anchor and steamed out of the harbour 
 at 4.30 a.m. I was in bed, but from my port-hole 
 anxiously caught a last glimpse of the little island 
 and all its "fishy" attractions. As usual, head- 
 winds and a nasty sea greeted us, and the uncom- 
 fortable roll soon found me a ready victim. 
 
 A calm smooth sea was afterwards all the more 
 appreciated, as I had learnt from experience that 
 no source of happiness can satisfy our ambitious 
 desires without a previous antithesis of discomfort. 
 
 My diary of August the 23rd marks an unevent- 
 ful day, as we were out of sight of land and it had 
 
36 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 turned very cold, stormy, and foggy. I was told 
 that fogs are very prevalent in those high latitudes 
 during the summer months, whereas in the winter 
 the atmosphere is always brilliantly clear. 
 
 Next day, on going up on deck, I found the 
 ship presenting quite an arctic appearance. A 
 crow's nest had been fastened on to the main 
 topmast to facilitate a good look-out for ice or 
 other impediment. The situation fascinated me 
 enormously, and my wish was to climb to the 
 top, and had it not been for my petticoat encum- 
 brances I should not have hesitated to follow in 
 the sailors' track. The following day the wind 
 dropped. The diversion we enjoyed during the 
 morning was exchanging signals with the Orestes 
 by means of the code. I soon learnt the alphabet, 
 and in fact after a time acquired quite an amount 
 of nautical knowledge. The crew interested 
 me ; I liked their company and listening to their 
 yarns ; I watched all their movements up on deck, 
 while the hauling of the sails and the sing-song cries 
 of the men as they pulled away at a rope gave 
 me ever fresh amusement. Their consideration 
 
IN VIEW OF ICE 37 
 
 for me during the whole of the voyage will remain 
 an enduring feature of my first trip at sea. 
 
 In the afternoon we were towed by the 
 Orestes, — a delightful sensation. She was going 
 full-speed, and we glided behind with scarcely any 
 perceptible motion. No land was to be seen, all 
 seemed gloom and eternal silence. Kolguiev 
 Island was passed, but being at a considerable 
 distance west of it we were unable to distinguish 
 any outline. 
 
 Early dawn on August the 26th disclosed our 
 first wintry scene. A heavy fall of snow was 
 covering the rigging and decks, and on the 
 horizon several blocks of ice began to foreshadow 
 arctic regions, and my wildest expectations 
 seemed about to be thoroughly realised. To- 
 wards noon, however, the sun was shining 
 brightly in a cloudless sky, and so pure and 
 clear was the atmosphere that I almost felt as 
 though new life had taken possession of me. 
 Scarcely had we finished our meals when, one 
 and all, we resumed our posts on deck. 
 
 The evening was glorious ; never have I seen 
 
3 8 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 such magnificent sky effects ; every colour seemed 
 harmoniously blended. For a short time we 
 were able to distinguish the south coast of 
 Novaia Zemlia, a name so closely associated 
 with dark schoolroom days, and a place I had 
 always looked upon as belonging to quite another 
 world, little thinking that in years to come I 
 should myself be navigating in the very waters 
 surrounding it. 
 
 On the 27th of August I was on deck at 5.30 
 a.m., much to the delight of Mr. Popham, whose 
 grievance at my being so " lazy " was almost daily 
 expatiated upon. Certainly there is nothing like 
 the fresh morning air, but most people are too 
 fond of cushioned luxury ever to realise the 
 delights of early dawn, seeming to agree with 
 Charles Lamb's parody on " Home, Sweet 
 Home "— 
 
 Be it ever so bedly, there is nothing like bed. 
 
 At 7 a.m. we dropped anchor in a sheltered 
 nook, formed by the island of Waigatz, near the 
 entrance to the Pet or Yugor Straits, which 
 separate the island from the mainland almost at 
 
WAIGATZ ISLAND 39 
 
 the boundary between Russia proper and Siberia. 
 We found the three Russian vessels lying at 
 anchor, having arrived the previous day, also a 
 Russian man-of-war, called Nayesdnick, under 
 the command of Captain Pell, and we greatly 
 wondered what she might be doing in such an 
 outlandish place. We learnt afterwards that she 
 had been ordered there from St. Petersburg for 
 the purpose of supplying Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy 
 with extra fur clothing and provisions for the 
 crews of his ships. She was also to receive de- 
 spatches from him, and take the opportunity of 
 doing some surveying and watching the Straits ; 
 for Norwegian sloops had been caught poach- 
 ing in Russian waters, and in consequence the 
 Kara Sea was now debarred to them for walrus 
 hunting. 
 
 The surrounding scenery was dismal and gloomy 
 in the extreme. Waigatz Island, which stretched to 
 our left, presents along narrow strip of land, of most 
 sombre uninviting appearance, slightly undulated ; 
 the surface is covered with mossy tundras. The 
 island is inhabited by natives called Samoyedes, 
 
4 o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 with whom, shortly afterwards, we became well 
 acquainted. They have large herds of reindeer, 
 which may be seen grazing away. The coast- 
 line to our right looked none the more inviting. 
 After breakfast a young Lieutenant from the 
 Russian man-of-war came on board the Blen- 
 cathra to pay his respects. He was tall, fair, 
 and promised to be remarkably handsome, and 
 as he had a certain knowledge of French we 
 were able to converse with him. He told us 
 that Dr. Nansen had anchored some time in 
 this vicinity, and had only left to resume his 
 polar researches ten days ago. The ice in the 
 Kara Sea had up to that date formed a slight 
 impediment to his movements, while in our 
 case, coming as we did later in the season, it 
 presented to us no difficulty whatsoever. The 
 young Lieutenant complained bitterly of the 
 loneliness and dreariness of the surroundings. 
 His man-of-war had been anchored for some 
 time, and certainly there seemed little attraction 
 for any one, much less for youthful Mightiness. 
 Through the narrow passage of the Straits de- 
 
THE KARA SEA 41 
 
 tached ice-floes kept drifting by in all sorts 
 of grotesque shapes. 
 
 Anxiously curious to have a look at the ice 
 in the Kara Sea, and to judge for ourselves 
 the real and exact condition of what we were 
 to expect, we resolved to steam through in 
 the Blencathra. Being of wood, she feared no 
 shock, even had we laid ourselves open to 
 any such risk, consequently we weighed anchor 
 and set forth. The opening to the Straits is 
 very narrow, scarcely exceeding three miles 
 in width. The scenery continued to assume 
 characteristically arctic appearances. Drift ice 
 was encountered to a large extent, but of a 
 soft and harmless nature, and, as far as we 
 could judge, future prospects looked very 
 promising. Elated with the good tidings, we 
 returned to our anchorage, a favourable signal 
 flying at the topmast for the benefit of all 
 our companions, but it was very cold and the 
 sea was uncomfortably rough. 
 
 On August the 28th the arrival of the 
 Minusinsk greatly reduced our anxiety, for 
 
42 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 no one had come across her since leaving Var- 
 doe. However, all had gone well. I spent 
 part of the day busily writing letters, not that 
 I had so much to relate, but the fact of head- 
 ing them with the word " Siberia" sounded 
 so grand and uncommon that I gave a free rein 
 to my imagination. 
 
 In the afternoon we paid a return call on 
 board the Russian man-of-war. The captain 
 and officers received us in the most hospitable 
 manner, champagne flowing liberally and numer- 
 ous toasts being drunk to our good luck and 
 success. After entrusting our letters to one of 
 the officers, we bade farewell and returned on 
 board the Blencathra. The waves meanwhile 
 had been lashed to fury, and I felt somewhat 
 frightened in the small steam-launch, but found 
 no sympathy whatsoever from my friends, who 
 were rather amused than otherwise at my alarm. 
 The weather all this time had been too unfavour- 
 able to allow of our indulging in a stroll ashore. 
 
 At early dawn on the 29th August our little 
 fleet weighed anchor and steamed cautiously 
 
KHABAROVA 43 
 
 through the Straits. The morning was bright 
 but damp. I was up on deck at 6 a.m., and 
 two hours later we sighted the small hamlet 
 of Khabarova, where we anchored a short time. 
 It is situated on the sandy beach, and consists 
 of wooden houses and Samoyede tents clustering 
 round a little wooden church recently erected 
 by a wealthy Siberian, Mr. Siberiakoff. Our 
 object in dropping anchor off this quaint settle- 
 ment was to land Mr. Jackson and his retinue 
 among the natives. Two boat - loads of Samo- 
 yedes, — men, women, and children, rowed mean- 
 while towards the Orestes to wish Captain Wiggins 
 a hearty welcome. During his many successful 
 trips to the Yenesei River, Captain Wiggins 
 had formed great friendships with the natives, 
 and his kindly expression and unaffected manner 
 had won him a well-deserved popularity. They 
 were, one and all, delighted to see him, and 
 clambered up on board the Orestes as fast as 
 they could ; it was quite touching to witness 
 the meeting. 
 
 Before proceeding any further a slight intro- 
 
44 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 duction to the Samoyedes will perhaps be 
 of interest. They inhabit a large tract of 
 country, stretching from Archangel to the Yenesei 
 River, and are numbered among the human 
 family under the head of Hyperborean Mon- 
 golidae. By imperial decree they are freed from 
 military service, territorial contributions, and from 
 taxes in money, only having to pay in skins of 
 wild beasts captured by them. The Samoyedes 
 are very diminutive and broad shouldered, have 
 round flat faces of yellowish colour, prominent 
 cheek-bones, tiny black eyes, small open nose, 
 thick lips, very little beard, and long coarse black 
 hair. In constitution they are weak and get pre- 
 maturely old. Their morals are extremely simple, 
 and in manners they are good tempered. The 
 Samoyedes pass the summer near the rivers and 
 lakes, occupied in fishing ; at the approach 
 of spring they migrate to near the sea, 
 trading in marine animals. Wandering from 
 the sea, they disperse over the tundra for 
 the capture of bears, foxes, white foxes, ermines, 
 and squirrels. Although the Samoyedes by 
 
THE SAMOYEDES 45 
 
 such kind of occupation belong to the hunting 
 people, yet their prosperity lies in the pasturage 
 of reindeer. 
 
 The Samoyedes never remain long in one 
 place, but wander about in search of fresh food 
 for their reindeer. In such a mode of life there 
 is not, nor can there be, any fixed habitation, but 
 the natives live in the so-called tchoom or tent, for 
 the construction of which they fix some poles in 
 the ground and cover them with reindeer skins, so 
 that by such an enclosure the dwelling of the Samo- 
 yede has the form of a cone. In the middle of the 
 tchoom is a plate of iron, or a kind of stone, in which 
 they cook their food. The tchoom is extremely 
 dirty inside, and the air most unsavoury. The 
 Samoyedes' dress in winter or summer is always 
 thesame,and isformedof reindeer skins. They wear 
 a sort of long tunic, called sovik, having an opening 
 to put the head through ; the hair of the garment 
 is worn outside in fine weather and inside 
 when it rains. A pair of short drawers made of 
 reindeer skin, tight round the hips and reaching 
 downward to the knee, stockings of peshki (the 
 
46 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 skin of young fawns) with the hair inwards, and 
 boots, called poum£ leeptt, of strong reindeer hide, 
 complete the costume. Their garments are 
 singularly well adapted to the wants of the inhab- 
 itants in these rigorous climes. The Samoyedes 
 wear a girdle round the loins, beautifully beaded, 
 from which is suspended a knife. 
 
 The garments of the fair sex are adorned 
 with various coloured skins, among which a piece 
 of European-coloured cloth is found frequently 
 inserted. They seem very vain, particularly of 
 their hair, which hangs in a long tight plait 
 down the back, ornamented with all sorts of pieces 
 of metal, giving them a most ludicrous appear- 
 ance. Indeed they seem to pick up every kind 
 of brass and iron fragments, which make quite a 
 chink when they move. 
 
 The Samoyedes live chiefly on reindeer flesh, 
 and consider the blood of this animal a delicate 
 and wholesome drink. Besides this, they eat 
 wolves, bears, foxes, etc., as well as fish and 
 birds. As regards intelligence, the Samoyedes up 
 to the present live in extreme ignorance ; they 
 
THE SAMOYEDES 47 
 
 cannot count time, are illiterate, and, like all 
 nomad tribes, inclined to drunkenness. The 
 greater number are of the Greek Orthodox 
 Church, having been converted by Russian priests 
 who visit their localities. Several of them, how- 
 ever, still continue to worship idols in the shape 
 of dolls, and perform their heathen ceremonies 
 through the medium of "Shamans" or medicine 
 men. The name Samoyede is said to occur in 
 Russian chronicles as far back as the year 1096, 
 and means salmon-eaters. 
 
 We were all anxious to go on shore and stand 
 on Siberian soil. Steam was got up in the small 
 launch, and after breakfast we landed at Khaba- 
 rova, where all the inhabitants had collected on 
 the beach to see us. A very inharmonious chorus 
 of dogs replied to our greeting, whose boisterous 
 welcome their masters had difficulty in sup- 
 pressing. Our reception was most friendly ; 
 they shook hands in a most cordial manner, and, 
 notwithstanding their somewhat repulsive appear- 
 ance, particularly in the case of the women, one 
 could not help taking a lively interest in their 
 
4 8 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 condition. Among them were several Russian 
 traders from the Petchora, who during the short 
 summer months trade in European goods in 
 exchange for furs, skins, etc. 
 
 The people showed us their tents, reindeer, 
 and sledges, and took us over the wooden house 
 where their priest resided. His countenance did 
 not please me, for he had rather a sinister look, 
 with long hair hanging in curls on his shoulders. 
 I was told that he was so addicted to drunken- 
 ness that he was obliged to be strapped on to 
 his bed on account of his violence. Civilisation 
 is certainly a beneficent acquisition to the human 
 family, not unmixed, however, in its earlier stages 
 of development, with consequences which time 
 alone can remedy. Russian sloops coming to 
 trade from the Petchora have barrels of vodka 
 and spirits on board, which the Samoyedes 
 sacrifice much to acquire, in order to satisfy 
 their craving for the newly-introduced stimulant. 
 
 A Russian merchant, a tall handsome man in 
 Samoyede dress, with a cap of reindeer skin, the 
 strings of which were ornamented by pieces of 
 
A ROUGH DRIVE 49 
 
 cloth, offered to take me for a drive in his sledge, 
 drawn by six reindeer. I immediately accepted 
 his kind offer, seating myself on the narrow seat 
 beside him. He carried a long prong instead of 
 a whip, and no sooner were we ready to start 
 than the reindeer, all harnessed abreast, began to 
 pull and gallop at full speed. No snow was then 
 covering the ground, so, heedless of obstacles, 
 we bumped and jolted in the most fearful manner, 
 so much so that to prevent being thrown off the 
 sledge I had to cling with both my arms round 
 my companion's neck. The soil was very marshy 
 and undulating, but nothing seemed to slacken 
 the speed of the reindeer, so I shouted at the 
 top of my voice, in response to which the 
 Russian kept soothing me in terms unfortunately 
 unknown to me. This drive was unique, and I 
 am sure few people can boast of a similar ex- 
 perience. On returning, another prepossessing 
 Russian seemed anxious to sledge with me, and 
 as it was difficult to resist his pressing invitation, 
 I set off on a second trial. It certainly was a case 
 of admiration conquering fear. 
 
 E 
 
5o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Meantime Mr. Jackson was busy landing his 
 belongings and provisions, which were to last 
 him several months. He took up his abode in 
 the priest's house, and his room, adjoining the 
 priest's, seemed comfortable enough, although 
 with only the bare necessaries of life. After 
 seeing him settled down among the Samoyedes, 
 without the slightest knowledge of their language 
 and without a friend, we left him our blessing 
 and bade him farewell. On parting, my Russian 
 merchant presented me with a young fox, which 
 unfortunately died on the voyage. 
 
 We were now about to enter the Kara or 
 Black Sea, nicknamed by the Russian acade- 
 mician Von Baer, — the great " Ice-cellar." 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 The Kara Sea — My arctic dress — Evenings on board — Walrus- 
 hunting — The Yalmal Peninsula — The Pet Straits — A plea- 
 sant greeting at Golchika — Some voyages to death — The 
 expeditions of Captain Wiggins. 
 
 On the 29th of August at 1 p.m. we were again 
 under way. The Blencathra took the lead, fol- 
 lowed in her wake by the Orestes and the 
 Minusinsk, the three Russian vessels bringing up 
 the rear. 
 
 In the afternoon we entered the Kara Sea, 
 which was to me full of interest. First of all, 
 the fact that I was the first lady who had navi- 
 gated its waters naturally caused me great 
 delight ; secondly, it had been pictured to me 
 before my departure with every sort of danger, 
 a warning which appeared all the more to entice 
 me. Far from being seized with a sudden long- 
 ing for familiar surroundings and home - like 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 scenery, this arctic aspect seemed to produce so 
 great a fascination upon me as to be almost un- 
 accountable. No one has any idea of the glories 
 revealed day after day in those high and, com- 
 paratively speaking, almost unknown latitudes. 
 I had often been told that when explorers once 
 direct their steps northwards they get bitten 
 with the desire of returning again and again ; 
 and now I can speak for myself, and strongly 
 endorse this statement. Our navigation through 
 the Kara Sea was perfectly delightful. In fact 
 so clear and placid was the water that I felt as 
 if I had suddenly been transferred to the Lake 
 of Geneva, and our passage through this 
 northern sea recalled to my mind the many 
 pleasant yachting expeditions I have enjoyed on 
 those beautiful southern waters. 
 
 The entrance to the Kara Sea presented a 
 most mystic and arctic appearance. Ice-fields, 
 low and comparatively level, were to be seen 
 floating towards the Straits, while ice-floes and 
 icebergs formed a striking feature in the pictur- 
 esque aspect of the sea. They were of a bluish- 
 
s 
 
AMONG THE ICE-FIELDS 53 
 
 green tint, and as the sun was shining, the bright 
 light displayed wonderful beauty of form and 
 brilliancy. They assume every variety of colour 
 and prismatic appearance. Sometimes the top 
 is table-shaped with acute cones, with numerous 
 clefts and rents, giving the appearance of many 
 distinct spires. On the other hand they display 
 vast hollows or caverns, occasionally perforated. 
 In fact the diversity of form and structure is 
 so endless, as to defy altogether my powers of 
 description. 
 
 I shall never forget the effect produced upon 
 me as I stood up on deck and gazed with silent 
 delight on the splendid and impressive panorama. 
 The silence was alone broken by the motion of 
 our little fleet. It kept meandering and dodging 
 the ice with skilful precision. No land was visible. 
 A deathly stillness was unbroken by the slightest 
 sound, and an oppressive loneliness seemed to 
 weigh upon one. But not so on board the Blen- 
 cathra. A more joyful gathering it would be im- 
 possible to find, surrounded as we were by all the 
 luxuries which enhance the recreations of life. It 
 
54 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 was difficult to imagine that we were not in 
 the very midst of civilisation, but steaming 
 pleasantly on the waters of the much dreaded 
 Kara Sea. 
 
 Every question put to me on arrival in England 
 to the effect, "Was it not dreadfully cold ?" received 
 a decided negative answer. The sun shone 
 brightly, not a cloud intercepted our view of the 
 great vault of heaven, and so mild was the atmo- 
 sphere that we slept all night with open port-holes, 
 feeling all the better for it. My costume, which 
 in fact formed my daily and never-varying dress 
 throughout the whole of the voyage, may be 
 summed up in very few words. A blue serge 
 skirt, jacket to match, which by the way was not 
 lined, a red flannel shirt, and a straw sailor-hat, 
 constituted my seafaring habiliment. Very slight 
 addition to my usual underclothing was made, and, 
 I may honestly add, that I scarcely suffered from 
 the effects of the cold. In the excitement of my 
 departure from England I had omitted to provide 
 myself with any furs whatsoever, much to the 
 surprise of the Russian officers, who laughed at 
 
IN THE EVENING 55 
 
 seeing me thus equipped, and suggested that my 
 attire was far better adapted for the soft summer 
 breezes of the Mediterranean. 
 
 Dulness never once reigned among us ; that 
 was a quality we none of us possessed. The mind 
 was constantly occupied with fresh scenes and the 
 anticipation of new and varied excitements. Most 
 of our days were spent up on deck. When, how- 
 ever, we were obliged to seek refuge in the main 
 cabin, every variety of occupation attended us. 
 Musical instruments were a source of great delight. 
 Mr. Popham was particularly well gifted, and gave 
 full vent to his talent on the violin, whilst I ac- 
 companied him on the piano and Mr. James added 
 to the chorus his skilful performance on the flute, 
 Mrs. James meanwhile constituting our sole but 
 competent and appreciative critic. Often also the 
 rolls attached to the organum were worked 
 by Mr. Popham, who, while playing the violin, 
 made use of his legs to blow the windpipes. Our 
 evenings were thus delightfully spent, and hours 
 sped with such rapidity that the clock almost 
 always struck twelve before we thought of retiring. 
 
56 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Books were also much appreciated. Mr. Popham 
 generally read to us aloud, and I meanwhile 
 worked at comforters and petticoats for the poor 
 in England. 
 
 As we steamed along the ice gradually dis- 
 appeared. On the 30th of August we sighted the 
 bleak and desolate looking coast line of the Yalmal 
 Peninsula, in latitude 72 . The weather was lovely, 
 the sea perfectly smooth. Towards evening the 
 Russian paddle-steamer parted company, having 
 received orders to inspect the narrow Strait which 
 separates White Island from the mainland. These 
 Straits were found to be in the same shallow and 
 dangerous condition as when surveyed by Captain 
 Wiggins in 1874-76-78, useless for navigation, with 
 tortuous channels, boisterous currents, and shoals 
 all round. 
 
 Great excitement prevailed one evening while 
 we were at dinner. The skipper came to 
 inform us that on two ice-floes 200 walruses 
 were to be seen lying huddled together. A 
 tremendous commotion reigned among the crew. 
 Each man that could be spared stood on the prow, 
 
A WALRUS HUNT $7 
 
 armed with a gun. We steamed quietly towards 
 the first ice-floe ; when comparatively close a 
 regular fusilade from the guns was followed by 
 the plunge of all the walrus into the water, roaring 
 and bellowing, and much infuriated at being thus 
 molested. Disappointed at our failure, we re- 
 solved to approach more cautiously the next ice- 
 floe, where lay as many walrus as on the first one. 
 Accordingly an order was given that no shots 
 were to be fired. Mr. Popham, however, had the 
 dinghy lowered, then sprang into it armed with a 
 gun and rowed off towards the scene of action. 
 The great art in striking the animal a fatal blow is 
 to shoot it in the nape of the neck, death being the 
 instantaneous result. The walrus, however, were 
 not to be tampered with. They raised their heads, 
 and upon seeing the enemy plunged, one and all, 
 into the water. The small boat was instantly sur- 
 rounded by dozens of huge beasts, but Mr. Popham, 
 with the cool calm manner and careless intrepidity 
 so characteristic of him, showed no fear of the 
 impending danger. On the other hand we 
 thought every moment that these fierce sea-lions, 
 
58 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 enraged almost to madness, would make a dash for 
 him. Naturally we looked on in breathless emo- 
 tion. Such a scene can never be forgotten. Mr. 
 Popham kept firing to keep them off, nearly 
 deafened by their roaring, as they dived and rose, 
 looking fiercely at him. So skilful was he that he 
 managed to kill a large female walrus and her 
 young one, which by natural instinct had been 
 following its mother. Both were seized, towed 
 and hauled on to an ice-floe ; and our excitement 
 reached its zenith. The skinning process then 
 took place. The hide and blubber were taken off, 
 and the head was severed from the body to form 
 a trophy of sporting prowess and peril escaped. 
 Leaving the carcasses behind, we set sail. It had 
 become very late, n p.m., but shortly afterwards 
 we had rejoined our fleet. 
 
 The most remarkable point in the walrus is 
 the great length of two of its upper teeth, which 
 extend downwards for nearly two feet. These 
 tusks are used by the walrus for climbing the 
 rocks or heaps of ice, and also for digging up 
 the seaweed, on which the animal mostly sub- 
 
A FEW DEGREES FROM THE POLE 59 
 
 sists. The length of the walrus is about sixteen 
 feet, but its head is very small in proportion. 
 The expression of its countenance is very 
 ferocious, principally on account of the enor- 
 mous size of the upper lip and the thick bristles 
 with which it is covered. Naturally the walrus 
 is often hunted for the sake of its flesh, its oil, 
 its skin, and its teeth ; but their skin is so strong 
 and slippery that even a sharp weapon frequently 
 glides off without injuring the animal. The great 
 enemy of the walrus is the polar bear, but against 
 this foe he is said to defend himself most vigor- 
 ouslv with his tusks. 
 
 After coasting along the Yalmal Peninsula we 
 rounded White Island, and soon were out of 
 sight of land again. By the 1st of September 
 we had reached our most northerly point, being 
 as far north as latitude 74 , only 16 degrees from 
 the North Pole. I felt so excited at being com- 
 paratively in such close vicinity to the pole, that 
 had we suddenly turned our prow northwards 
 and changed our goal, the spirit of enterprise 
 and adventure would have taken full possession 
 
6o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 of me. The brown colour of the water denoted 
 that we were steaming abreast of the estuary of 
 the River Obi, and shortly afterwards a wintry 
 scene again disclosed itself. It had turned de- 
 cidedly colder, and next day the deck and rigging 
 were covered with snow and icicles. Again we 
 met with ice-fields and ice-floes, which necessi- 
 tated careful steering. Sparkling under a blue 
 sky and brilliant sunshine, the ice formed a coup 
 d'ceil as striking as it was beautiful. It struck 
 me as curious that ice abounded in great quantity 
 at the entrance to the Pet Straits and between 
 the estuaries of the Obi and Yenesei Rivers, with 
 open water the whole distance between the two 
 boundaries just mentioned, and presenting no 
 difficulty whatsoever for navigation. In fact, I 
 was on the whole rather disappointed with the 
 Kara Sea, as everything was far too plain sail- 
 ing ; no adventures occurred on the way, and 
 nothing even to cause the slightest anxiety. I 
 began to realise the fact that after all one can 
 never depend on other people's reports, but to 
 go and see for one's self is the best solution to 
 
THE YENESEI RIVER 61 
 
 any doubt. At the same time I may add, with- 
 out hesitation, that I thoroughly enjoyed my 
 cruise through the Kara Sea — the passage was 
 glorious, the floating ice met with proved no 
 insuperable barrier, as we were led to believe it 
 would, and so calm was the sea that our swing 
 table was fixed all the way from the Pet Straits. 
 
 Apart from seeing walrus, which we did in 
 large numbers, we also perceived several seals and 
 wild duck, which our friends occasionally fired at 
 for the sake of sport. I fancied I saw a polar bear 
 in the distance, but unfortunately we came into 
 no close contact with this formidable antagonist. 
 
 On the 2nd of September we sighted Port 
 Dickson and entered the mouth of the mighty 
 Yenesei River, which at its estuary expands like 
 a lake, with a breadth of forty miles, interspersed 
 with islands. The river had hitherto been but 
 little navigated, consequently we possessed no 
 charts, and our compasses being imperfect, we 
 had to rely entirely on Captain Wiggins' ex- 
 perience and knowledge, gathered from previous 
 voyages. The lead was kept going, showing a 
 
62 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 depth varying from seven to four fathoms. Some 
 slight anxiety was attached to the Orestes, for 
 had she gone aground, carrying 1600 tons of 
 rails, the consequences might have been serious. 
 Captain Wiggins' characteristic caution, how- 
 ever, allayed all apprehension. 
 
 We were coasting comfortably along the left 
 bank at a rate of four knots. The familiar flat 
 dreary coast here again met our eyes, only 
 slightly varied by white patches of snow. We 
 were beginning to grow weary of such slow 
 locomotion, and were longing to drop anchor at 
 our destination. At last in the distance, on the 
 right-hand side, several lights gleamed through 
 the darkness, indicating a recognition of our 
 arrival. The Russian screw and schooner were 
 already lying at anchor, and the River Expedi- 
 tion, under the command of Lieutenant Zaly- 
 effsky, was there to receive us. We met with 
 a most enthusiastic and cordial reception — guns 
 were repeatedly fired, rockets rent the air, and 
 Bengal lights illuminated fantastically the weird 
 scenery. We had successfully reached Golchika 
 
GOLCHIKA 63 
 
 in latitude 71 40" N., dropping anchor on the 
 3rd of September at 10.30 p.m., having accom- 
 plished a distance of some 3000 miles. 
 
 The evening was beautiful ; a bright moon 
 was shining in a clear sky, which seemed to 
 add colouring to our much elated spirits. We 
 were delighted with our successful enterprise, 
 and did full justice to the occasion by, to use an 
 amusing phrase, " thoroughly wetting our luck." 
 
 A short summary of some of the noteworthy 
 voyages in or across the Kara Sea may interest 
 my readers. Unfortunately not all attempts to 
 penetrate the great " Ice-cellar " have been suc- 
 cessful. The very first effort that was ever made 
 by Western Europeans was by our countryman 
 Sir Hugh Willoughby in 1553. It ended dis- 
 astrously. He was followed forty-five years later 
 by the brave Dutch Captain Barents, who was 
 obliged to winter on the east coast of Novaia 
 Zemlia, his ship having been ice-bound, and he 
 eventually died of scurvy. The Austro- Hungarian 
 Expedition also met with an unfortunate result. 
 
 Notwithstanding these failures, two names 
 
64 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 stand pre-eminently forward coupled with re- 
 markable successes. Every person having ade- 
 quate interest in arctic expeditions has heard of 
 Captain Joseph Wiggins, so thoroughly associated 
 as his name has been with the records of Kara Sea 
 navigation, of which indeed he may be said to 
 be the original promoter, thereby opening a 
 new highway over these waters for the service 
 of commercial enterprise amongst nations, and 
 general benefit is certain to proceed from the inter- 
 course thus created. His voyages are adequate 
 testimony to his knowledge and experience of 
 the Siberian sea route. His first venturesome 
 attempt to navigate these waters was made in 
 1874. He entered the Kara Sea as early as 
 June 24th, by way of the Kara Straits, in the 
 Diana, and cruised about in that sea for eight 
 weeks. His subsequent voyages in the Thames, 
 Warkwortk, Phoenix, Labrador, Orestes, etc., 
 sufficiently establish the reputation of Captain 
 Wiggins as a great navigator and as an enthu- 
 siastic and successful explorer. He has won by 
 his kindly manner and extreme modesty the love 
 
POLAR EXPEDITIONS 65 
 
 and admiration of all who know him. Indeed I 
 feel proud in being able to number myself among 
 his many friends and appreciative admirers. 
 
 Another name which deserves special mention 
 is that of Professor Nordenskiold, the distin- 
 guished Swedish naturalist. He followed in 
 Captain Wiggins' track, entering the Kara Sea in 
 1875 in the Proeven, and proceeding to the mouth 
 of the Yenesei River, doing likewise the following 
 year in the Ymer. These voyages ultimately led 
 to Professor Nordenskiold's celebrated journey 
 through the Behring Straits round the whole 
 north of Siberia on board the Vega in 1878. 
 
 The Kara Sea may be said to have been for 
 several years the happy hunting-ground of Nor- 
 wegian walrus-hunters. 
 
 Dr. Nansen also, in furtherance of his expedi- 
 tion towards the North Pole, recently passed 
 across the Kara Sea ; and in conclusion let us 
 hope that his aim and anticipation will meet with 
 success outshining that of all previous expeditions, 
 and that he may rank as the greatest arctic 
 explorer the world has ever produced. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 Siberian convicts at work — A Samoyede household — A monoton- 
 ous stay — A prospect of adventure ends in disappoint- 
 ment — About a reindeer sledge — A Samoyede cemetery 
 — Celebration of the Czar's birthday — A disaster and a 
 storm — After ptarmigan — A handy vessel — I bid farewell to 
 the River Yenesei. 
 
 Next morning we were all on deck early. 
 Nothing, however, rewarded our eager gaze. 
 A dull barren coast -line was alone distinguish- 
 able, and a few wooden houses and reindeer 
 tents constituted the small village of Golchika. 
 Situated on an island at the mouth of a small 
 tributary stream on the right bank of the Yenesei, 
 it lies at a distance of 200 miles up the river. 
 
 The weather was anything but pleasant. A 
 strong west wind was blowing, and we experienced 
 continual snowstorms during the day. In the 
 course of the afternoon we went ashore, landing 
 in a small creek, and on the shore were numerous 
 
SIBERIAN CONVICTS 67 
 
 Siberian convicts and prisoners, sent down the 
 river in lighters to help in the trans-shipment of 
 the rails from on board the Orestes. They 
 certainly did not excite any commiseration, for 
 they looked quite happy and contented, as if they 
 rather enjoyed the "spree." 
 
 We next directed our steps towards the habit- 
 ations, escorted by the Priest of Turukhansk. 
 He was robed in long flowing black garments ; 
 his hair with serpentine curls encircled his 
 shoulders. He had a sly look about him, with a 
 rollicking jovial expression, and was as active as 
 a kitten. On reaching a wooden hut, which was 
 the largest of the group, we stepped in to have 
 a look at the inmates. On opening the door a 
 pestilential mephitic atmosphere burst upon us. 
 In fact the odour of the Samoyede is peculiar to 
 himself, and so sickening and overpowering that 
 it quite beggars description. 
 
 However we entered, and I feel justified in 
 saying that no less than two dozen human beings, 
 men, women, and children, were to be seen lying 
 indiscriminately huddled together. 
 
68 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 The heat was oppressive, and the air thick 
 with smoke. It was difficult to distinguish 
 anything. I nevertheless perceived that these 
 Samoyedes, familiar objects since our contact 
 with them at Khabarova, or St. Nicholai, as it 
 is now named, were very slightly clad. The 
 children went barefooted and barelegged, with 
 merely a transparent loose cotton princess dress 
 down to the knees. The women were not better 
 off in that respect. But these uncivilised customs 
 are not without reason. Born and bred in such 
 remote parts, where scarcely any stranger up to 
 the present has ever passed their threshold, they 
 have to make the best of their existence, and 
 depend on the result of their hunting for clothing. 
 When they leave their huts to imbibe a little 
 fresh air they put on the thickest fur garments 
 they can provide, and so hardly feel the difference 
 of temperature when they go out to face the cold. 
 Once home again they promptly divest themselves 
 of them. 
 
 The Samoyedes, whose type is the same as 
 those described at Khabarova, seemed deliehted 
 
A VISIT TO THE SAMOYEDES 69 
 
 to welcome us. We of course could not converse 
 with them, but our pantomimic efforts seemed to 
 produce the same effect as speech, and they 
 responded likewise. Never having seen Euro- 
 pean ladies before, their curiosity was very much 
 aroused by our appearance, dress, and physique. 
 They even ventured to touch my blue serge skirt 
 and jacket, and wondered what it might be made 
 of. But what tickled their fancy more than any- 
 thing else was a diamond buckle which I wore on 
 my belt, and a sparkling brooch. They seemed 
 in raptures over them. I could see their admir- 
 ing eyes intently fixed upon them, as they are 
 very fond of anything that shines or glitters. 
 Our respective relationships seemed to puzzle 
 them also very much. The skipper happened to 
 be standing behind me, and I suppose he im- 
 pressed them with a certain air of paternity, so I 
 was put down as his daughter. It was most 
 entertaining, as my new acquaintances continued 
 to indulge in many varied conjectures regarding 
 me and my companions, and these blunders were 
 a source of great amusement, for I fairly went 
 
70 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 through several imaginary phases. The Samo- 
 yedes appeared to be much pitted with small-pox, 
 and altogether looked rather unhealthy. As a 
 preventive against scurvy they dip the food they 
 eat into the reindeer's blood, which is supposed 
 to act as an antidote. 
 
 Next to the room where all the natives were 
 huddled together was a very clean nice-looking 
 chamber inhabited by a priest. It looked very 
 comfortable, with the inevitable " ikon " or sacred 
 picture hanging up in a corner. We were obliged 
 to sit down for a few minutes, and he offered us 
 some refreshments, which, however, we declined. 
 
 Golchika seemed infested with Eskimo dogs, 
 most of them being white and very much like 
 wolves, and from time to time setting up inhar- 
 monious wolfish howls. One of them was ex- 
 tremely handsome, and Mr. Popham having 
 expressed a wish to possess one was presented 
 with it before leaving;. 
 
 The three weeks anchored off Golchika were 
 neither very eventful nor interesting. We ex- 
 perienced very nasty gales almost all the time, and 
 
A PROJECT 71 
 
 very rarely could we go ashore. We, however, 
 wiled away the time by eating, drinking, reading, 
 playing, and sleeping, cooped up as we were from 
 morning to night in the main cabin. Notwith- 
 standing the dreariness of the situation, a slight 
 coating of snow varying the monotone gray of the 
 coast-line, I never felt dull. Perhaps it was the 
 anticipation of excitement and adventure which 
 kept me in spirits. 
 
 Meanwhile, when the river was calm, the 
 Orestes was busy discharging her rails on to 
 the lighters. The Minusinsk was also getting 
 ready to go as soon as posssible up the river to 
 Yeneseisk, to take despatches and letters for the 
 Russian Government. No news could have been 
 received of our little fleet since our leaving the 
 Pet Straits, and the much dreaded Kara Sea was 
 sure to cause a certain amount of anxiety. 
 
 The sameness of our daily routine was broken 
 one day by the announcement of our projected 
 intention of all going up the river to Yeneseisk 
 and sleighing home via Krasnoiarsk, Tobolsk, 
 Tiumen, Moscow, and St. Petersburg. 
 
72 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 This sudden change in our programme naturally 
 caused a considerable ebullition of spirits, and for 
 several days filled us with the hope of entering the 
 very heart of Siberia. We kept discussing sug- 
 gested changes and making endless arrangements 
 to carry out the project. We even went on board 
 the Russian river paddle-steamer to secure accom- 
 modation, which was nice though rather primitive. 
 However all this fell through after a time, much 
 to my disappointment. I was longing to see more 
 of Siberian life and people, and something of 
 Russia and all her interesting inhabitants. Life 
 is said to be made up of one long string of dis- 
 appointments, so I cheerfully acquiesced in my 
 fate, and should advise all my readers to do like- 
 wise under similar circumstances. 
 
 Taking advantage of a fine day, we rowed 
 ashore to take a walk over the tundra. On land- 
 ing up the creek we found the ground extremely 
 swampy, and had it not been for some excellent 
 galoshes purchased at Vardoe, I should have 
 fared very ill. We found a sledge, to which were 
 harnessed five reindeer — splendid animals, waiting 
 
A REINDEER SLEDGE 73 
 
 with extreme patience. They are about four feet 
 in height, and perhaps four to five feet in length, 
 with huge branching antlers, covered at this 
 period of the year with soft velvet. The colour 
 of those we saw was mostly white, tinged 
 with brown all down the back. They are strong 
 powerful animals, but looked very gentle and 
 good-natured. When alive the animal draws the 
 sledge, and when dead its flesh is eaten and the 
 skin used for tent and clothing. 
 
 One of the reindeer attached to the sledge 
 which we saw, looked lame, and was soon con- 
 demned as unfit for service. A Samoyede and 
 his wife shortly afterwards appeared on the scene 
 and began to remove the fine reindeer from the 
 others. Thinking they were only going to pat it 
 and take it home, I followed them to see the 
 result, but to my horror and amazement the 
 uncanny old Samoyede produced a hatchet, and, 
 striking the animal a severe blow on the head, 
 felled it in a moment. Turning the reindeer over, 
 he plunged a knife behind the shoulder into the 
 heart, in order to allow the blood to flow straight 
 
74 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 into the stomach, and not saturate the whole 
 body, thus in a very few seconds putting an end 
 to this graceful animal. It made a great impres- 
 sion upon me, and yet I could not tear myself away 
 from the scene. I learnt afterwards that this 
 sudden act of butchery was owing to the old 
 Samoyede wanting to gain a little money from 
 our fleet in exchange for a leg or shoulder of 
 reindeer. 
 
 After this we proceeded on our stroll and came 
 across several curious-looking objects dotted about. 
 On approaching we found them to be wooden 
 sledges, covered up with furs. My curiosity led 
 me to make a nearer inspection. To my horror 
 I found that these sledges formed the burial-place 
 of the Samoyedes. The dead bodies are thus 
 placed on them, covered with their furs, and left 
 exposed. On removing the rug I also perceived 
 the decayed carcass of a dog lying next to the 
 corpse. I was told that it was the Samoyede 
 custom to kill a favourite Eskimo dosr whenever a 
 death occurs. We met with many of these burial- 
 places, some quite tiny sledges, containing babies. 
 
A BURIAL-PLACE 75 
 
 others apparently empty, with only bones strewn 
 round about. I suspect wild animals are often to 
 be seen prowling around. 
 
 The weather was nice and bright, but before 
 we had time to return a snowstorm overtook us. 
 In rowing back to the Blencathra such nasty 
 choppy waves arose that I was alarmed, and on 
 our way home we stopped and called on the 
 Russian officers on board the schooner. Their 
 kind hospitality once again made itself felt, and 
 only after we had partaken of wine and various 
 refreshments were we allowed to depart. Al- 
 though I never indulge in spirits of any kind, I 
 could not refuse what was offered, as a token of 
 good-will, and as it gave me the chance of raising 
 a glass to the happiness and well-being of our 
 kind friends. 
 
 The next day, September the nth, was the 
 Czar's birthday, and it was similarly acknowledged 
 and celebrated with due honour and respect. The 
 weather was glorious, a brilliant sunshine illumin- 
 ating the weird scenery. Salutes were repeatedly 
 fired, and our combined fleets were bedecked 
 
76 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 with flags, looking extremely bright. I could 
 hardly believe that I was some 3000 miles dis- 
 tant from England, several hundreds of miles from 
 civilisation, and only about 19 degrees from the 
 North Pole. Yet there I was, body and soul, in 
 the very heart of the mighty Yenesei River. In 
 the afternoon of the same day the Minu- 
 sinsk left for Yeneseisk, a town situated 1500 
 miles up the river. She was under the command 
 of Robert Wiggins, brother to the eminent navi- 
 gator, and, as it turned out, successfully reached 
 her destination on October the 13th, having 
 accomplished the distance in thirty-three days. 
 
 On the 13th of September a strong gale of wind 
 sprang up, lasting with extreme violence several 
 days. Although at anchor the motion was most 
 disagreeable. 
 
 Two of the Russian barges, which had just 
 been loaded with a cargo of rails, unfortunately 
 met with a disaster. 
 
 As no assistance could be given, they began 
 to sink rapidly, much to our distress. No lives, 
 however, were lost. The lighters seemed unfit to 
 
A STORM 77 
 
 carry such a weight, especially under unexpected 
 circumstances, such as this hurricane. The 
 barometer had stood at 29.40, but very shortly 
 afterwards had fallen as low as 28.80, a fall which, 
 according to the skipper, was not to be looked 
 upon with indifference. 
 
 Great excitement prevailed when the news 
 spread that the Russian vessels were beginning 
 to drag their anchors, and as we were all anchored 
 more or less close together, we feared a collision. 
 However, what might have proved unpleasant 
 was luckily averted. The Russian vessels battled 
 heroically with the waves, and the officers, 
 deeming it advisable to make for the opposite 
 shore, steamed across to seek shelter. 
 
 Next morning we were likewise to meet with 
 the same fate. Our anchors began to drag, and 
 as the sandy bank extended to some considerable 
 distance from the shore, the result might have 
 caused some damage to the yacht. At an early 
 hour the noise of the sailors up on deck awak- 
 ened in me some suspicion. Hearing the gale 
 howling, the waves lashing in fury, and sharp 
 
78 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 orders being given, I began to realise what was 
 going on, and very soon afterwards a familiar 
 voice came to warn me to get up and dress, in 
 case of any mishap. 
 
 Throwing a glance out of the port-hole, the 
 very look of that nasty cold sea sent shivers 
 down my back. Instead of dwelling on any means 
 of escape, I merely heaped all the cloaks I could 
 find on my bed, and, diving under the bedclothes, 
 I calmly awaited events. My idea was, that if 
 I were to die or drown, why not do so comfort- 
 ably. 
 
 Fully twenty minutes elapsed before I dared 
 uncover my head to listen to what might be going 
 on, when, on doing so, I found everything peaceful 
 and the yacht anchored off the opposite coast. 
 Skilful manoeuvring had dispelled all fear of 
 impending danger. Alone the Orestes resisted 
 the waves, nobly withstanding their attacks, 
 and only from desire to keep company did she 
 follow in our wake. It seemed hardly credible 
 that one could expect to witness such dreadful 
 gales on a river which, on this occasion so 
 
A SHOOTING EXPEDITION 79 
 
 treacherous, at other times smooth and still as 
 a looking-glass, had won our trust and con- 
 fidence. 
 
 But very often, as in other cases, appearances 
 are deceptive, for I expect that, being so near 
 the wide expanse, which extends to a breadth 
 of forty miles, it was almost like being in open 
 sea, and the wind veering round the corner 
 burst as it were upon us in all its fury. 
 
 Lying at anchor, opposite Golchika, we en- 
 joyed considerable shelter, and the Orestes was 
 able to continue the trans-shipment of the rails, 
 which was actively carried on. Several Samoyede 
 tents were to be seen clustering near the beach. 
 
 We were longing, after so many days of 
 seclusion, to stretch our contracted limbs again, 
 and to make acquaintance with the inhabitants 
 on the left bank. A lovely bright day favoured 
 our intentions. On September the iSth the 
 gentlemen, armed with guns, and the ladies 
 accompanying them, we all set forth, imbued 
 with interest and curiosity, for a day's sport. 
 On landing we were greeted by a whole tribe of 
 
8o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Samoyede women, children, and dogs. The 
 men were out fishing. We laughed and joked, 
 and soon were on familiar terms by means of 
 signs. 
 
 They asked us into their tents, which are 
 entirely made up of reindeer skins. In the roof 
 is an aperture for the smoke to escape. On 
 either side were wooden benches, covered with 
 furs, shared by two families. The smell was 
 dreadful, and I could almost see the walls alive 
 with vermin. In fact I was told that almost 
 every night, on divesting themselves of their 
 clothes, the Samoyedes make a regular search 
 and hunt after repulsive insects. I was so terri- 
 fied at the possibility of their imparting these 
 favourites to me that I kept somewhat at a 
 respectful distance. Shortly afterwards the men 
 appeared on the scene and chimed in most 
 amicably. We gave them some tobacco, of 
 which they are inordinately fond. 
 
 Meanwhile we had sent for provisions from 
 the Blencathra. Their gratitude, on seeing any 
 amount of tea, sugar, fancy biscuits, wine, etc., 
 
A SHOOTING EXPEDITION 81 
 
 was inexpressible, especially when, after a time, 
 they began to realise our friendly intentions. 
 
 It struck me very much to see the old Samo- 
 yede, apparently chief of the little colony, in- 
 stantly producing several roubles as recompense for 
 our gift, no doubt the money he had just received 
 for his reindeer from the Russians. We, how- 
 ever, declined his offer. Instead Mr. James car- 
 ried off a sledge as a curiosity, and Mr. Popham a 
 small Siberian dog, an act they seemed fully to 
 endorse. The port wine produced a most amus- 
 ing effect. Before we had time to offer any 
 assistance they had broken the neck of the 
 bottle, and spilling half the contents on the 
 ground, poured it out into a sort of wooden bowl. 
 This they all sipped in turns, highly delighted, 
 the result being that their spirits were greatly 
 raised. 
 
 At the close of these comical proceedings we 
 began to move over the mosses of the tundras 
 in search of sport. Here also the ground was 
 extremely marshy, with a stretch of country 
 gloomy and uninviting, to which the lack of 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 trees gave a peculiar air of desolation. We had 
 walked but a short distance when we came upon 
 quite a flock of apparently white birds. Our 
 approach did not seem to frighten them in the 
 slightest degree. The gentlemen waited for a 
 favourable moment, and, on firing, several fell 
 victims to the guns. The birds proved to be 
 ptarmigan, splendid game, and just losing the 
 last of their pretty brown plumage in anticipa- 
 tion of winter. The whole afternoon we kept 
 pursuing them, which presented no difficulty, 
 as, unaccustomed to being molested, they were 
 quite tame and fearless. Eventually we re- 
 turned on board, with a full bag of ptarmigan. 
 We feasted on them for several days. The 
 flavour was most delicate and delicious, to my 
 taste greatly exceeding our grouse in quality. 
 In Siberian they are termed " Rabschish." 
 
 I here take occasion, by way of parenthesis, to 
 mention with highest commendation the excellent 
 capabilities of James' patent folding canvas boat. 
 Much was the pleasure and advantage we derived 
 throughout our voyage from its use. The 
 
A LITTLE SKIFF 83 
 
 wonderful little skiff was always ready at a 
 moment's notice to convey us through still or 
 stormy waters to visit the shore. Diminutive in 
 size and light in weight, only two seconds were 
 required to get it ready for sea, and yet so strong 
 was it that no feeling of insecurity was entertained 
 as we committed ourselves to its apparently fragile 
 structure. Frequently four persons of our com- 
 pany, no feather-weights either, desirous of going 
 ashore without appealing to any of the crew for 
 aid, and accompanied by several dogs, availed 
 themselves of this handy and trustworthy little 
 vessel. To any ocean-loving adventurer there- 
 fore, whom it may concern, and who may happen to 
 read these lines, I strongly recommend James' 
 folding canvas boat. 
 
 Later in the afternoon some of the Samoyedes 
 came on board to return our visit. The women 
 looked very smart in their fur cloaks, made up of 
 small bits of various skins, inserted and orna- 
 mented with coloured pieces of cloth. They 
 seemed so proud, and kept showing themselves 
 off, greatly rejoicing in our admiration of them ; 
 
84 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 and I am sure they were quite unable to take 
 in all they witnessed on board the Biencatkra, 
 for they looked amazed. It was with quite a 
 feeling of regret that we bade them good-bye. 
 For a moment I tried to imagine myself in their 
 position, left alone during the terrible long arctic 
 winter, away from civilisation and means of easy 
 sustenance. How dreadful the awful solitude 
 must be, with life thus spent in patient endurance, 
 year after year ! The thought that I was return- 
 ing to the land of plenty, with every comfort and 
 enjoyment, made me feel all the more sensitive 
 to the dreary joyless existence led by these 
 distant tribes. Poor uncivilised human beings, 
 left on the cold howling tundra ! are they perhaps 
 happier thus, living in ignorance of the pomps 
 and vanities of our civilised world ? Nature is 
 all they can look to and live for. May they never 
 know worse. 
 
 Time was now drawing on, and days were 
 beginning to close in. We also were soon to 
 take a last farewell of our Siberian surroundings, 
 and direct our course once more homewards. 
 
WE PART FROM CAPTAIN WIGGINS 85 
 
 Final arrangements had been concluded. 
 Captain Wiggins decided on accompanying the 
 Russian fleet up the river to Yeneseisk, much to 
 our regret, as his familiar voice and face would 
 be sorely missed on our return voyage. The 
 Russian naval officer, Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy, 
 offered him a berth on board the paddle-steamer, 
 where he was to meet with every kindness and 
 attention. 
 
 On September 19th our stay, by no means 
 without interest, was brought to a close. The 
 three weeks anchored in the Yenesei River will 
 ever remain a memorable feature of my youthful 
 days, and in years to come will form an enduring 
 and eventful episode in my life. My mind had 
 certainly grown richer by a thousand new im- 
 pressions, never likely to fade. 
 
 In the evening Captain Wiggins and the 
 Russian officers came on board the Blencathra 
 to bid us farewell. It was not without emotion 
 that we parted after so many pleasant days. It 
 seemed strange to imagine our little fleet thus 
 split up, with only the Orestes and Blencathra to 
 
86 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 face the homeward voyage through the Kara 
 Sea ; while, on the other hand, the three Russian 
 vessels with three lighters in tow were to accom- 
 plish a voyage of 1 500 miles up the river before 
 ultimately reaching their destination. Up on 
 deck late at night I witnessed for the last time 
 the glorious evening closing in upon us, produc- 
 ing a strange effect on the surrounding scenery, 
 which I am never likely to see again. 
 
 Before quitting this summer residence I feel 
 compelled to say a few words of this grand and 
 mighty river, the Yenesei. Siberia is drained by 
 three large rivers, the Obi, Yenesei, and Lena, 
 which form the most remarkable water-system in 
 the world. 
 
 The Yenesei drains, of course, an enormous 
 area, its remotest branches originating in Mon- 
 golia, in the Tannu Range of the Altai Moun- 
 tains. According to geographical statistics, its 
 length is given at about 3220 miles, and following 
 a somewhat straight course, it discharges its waters 
 into the Arctic Ocean. It is joined on its 
 northerly course by several rivers, more especially 
 
THE YENESEI 87 
 
 on its right bank. The three principal towns situ- 
 ated on the Yenesei are Minusinsk, Krasnoiarsk, 
 and Yeneseisk. At Golchika the river becomes 
 narrower, extending barely over a breadth of 
 four and a half miles. Shortly afterwards it ex- 
 pands like a lake, extending in width over more 
 than forty miles, and forming a huge delta and 
 lagoon, interspersed with low islands. The water, 
 somewhat dark in colour, constitutes a pure 
 fresh drink. The fishing, which is abundant, 
 consists of white salmon, sturgeon, sterlet, 
 herring, and several other kinds of fish, only 
 known by their Russian names, such as muxoon, 
 etc. The Yenesei is one of, if not the most, 
 magnificent of rivers, in fact the immense volume 
 of water which it pours forth probably exceeds 
 that of any other river. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 Homeward bound — Cold, gales, and fog — Aground — We again 
 meet Mr. Jackson — We steer for Archangel — The Kola 
 Peninsula and the White Sea — We surprise the Custom- 
 House officers — In the Dwina — We reach Solombola. 
 
 On September the 20th at 5 a.m. the Orestes and 
 Blencathra weighed anchor from Golchika, to 
 resume the homeward voyage. 
 
 Notwithstanding the early dawn, I cast a last 
 glance of farewell on the little Russian fleet, 
 which was also in readiness to get under way. 
 It was a dull dreary day, snowing at intervals, 
 and intensely cold. The scenery looked more 
 dismal than ever. The Blencathra sailed and 
 steamed alternately until the evening, when the 
 Orestes took us in tow. 
 
 The Orestes, in the absence of the well-known 
 figure on her bridge, was now under command of 
 Captain Furneaux, a keen and able seafaring 
 
A HARD FROST 89 
 
 man, who, although these polar regions were 
 unfamiliar to him, acquitted himself most admir- 
 ably. 
 
 At 6.30 p.m. we were off Port Dickson ; the 
 night was frigid indeed, and I began to realise 
 the feeling suggestive of an arctic winter. 
 
 My diary on the 21st September gives our 
 position in latitude 73°.43 / , sighting a good deal 
 of ice, slackening speed and steering carefully. 
 Towards evening a strong westerly wind sprung 
 up, with frequent thick showers of snow. Baro- 
 meter 29.40. The following day, 22nd Septem- 
 ber, the wind had freshened into a strong breeze, 
 occasioning a very uneasy motion. The cold 
 had become severe. The thermometer marked 
 20 degrees of frost, undoubtedly the coldest 
 day experienced during the whole of the voyage. 
 The bows of the Orestes and Blencathra were 
 covered with a thick coating of ice, from the tow- 
 rope hung huge icicles, fringing also the deck 
 and rigging, and producing quite a fairy-like 
 appearance. 
 
 Had it not been for the pitching and rolling, 
 
9o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 I should greatly have enjoyed this fantastic sight. 
 My diary on September 23rd records a heavy 
 gale of wind, strong head-sea, with fog and rain. 
 
 We were unable to do anything except listen 
 to the wind as it howled through the rigging, 
 seeming only to become more penetrating at 
 every fresh burst. The waves dashing against 
 the ship, however, seemed to distract me, as I 
 lay tossing miserably about in my berth, unable 
 to find a centre of gravity to escape the continual 
 undulating roll, but without any uneasiness re- 
 sulting from a sense of insecurity. 
 
 No doubt the steady old Pandora, with her 
 trustworthy crew, had filled me with implicit 
 confidence, which was fully maintained to the 
 very end. 
 
 At first, I will admit, unaccustomed to yacht- 
 ing, and quite a novice at sea, the slightest 
 motion or noise used immediately to arouse my 
 apprehensions, and I nervously asked, to the 
 amusement of the sailors, " Is it safe?" A little 
 experience, however, soon taught me there was 
 no danger likely to occur which I could not meet 
 
THROUGH THE ICE 91 
 
 with coolness and self-possession. Such is the 
 lesson of experience at sea. 
 
 At 9 p.m. the tow-rope snapped, under the 
 weight, no doubt, of the heavy-laden icicles. 
 Accordingly we steamed apart and lost sight 
 of one another, the Orestes seeming bent on a 
 different course. 
 
 On September 24th the gale at last subsided 
 into a calm. I rose early and went up on deck, 
 but soon had to repair below again. Ice was 
 being shaken down in great quantities from the 
 rigging. The temperature was still very low, 
 and a nasty fog was beginning to close in 
 upon us. 
 
 In the course of the afternoon we sighted a 
 considerable amount of ice, and steamed through 
 large ice-floes, meandering, so to speak, in the 
 midst of them. The effect was strikingly weird. 
 Being of a soft kind, however, the drift ice pre- 
 sented no difficulty, the Blencathra being a yacht 
 specially adapted for such navigation. 
 
 We even went so far as to put her utmost 
 capabilities to the test, for meeting with a large 
 
92 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 sheet of ice ahead, we steered boldly at and suc- 
 cessfully through it. The shock, however, was 
 apparent. Towards noon the fog, which had 
 hung densely around, gradually lifted, disclosing 
 a lovely gloriously-coloured sunset. 
 
 It was whispered that our position at that 
 moment was uncertain. We had kept steering a 
 south-west course, but still with no charts to refer 
 to, and an unreliable compass, we were more or 
 less in ignorance as to our whereabouts. 
 
 Owing also to the fog no observations could 
 be taken, and land not being visible, all seemed 
 desolation, wild and dreary. 
 
 Accordingly we dropped anchor at 10 p.m., 
 hoping with dawn to resume our course. The 
 following morning, 25th September, anchor was 
 weighed at 5.30 a.m. The fog was again thick. 
 We were steaming slowly, and kept the lead 
 going continually in from five to seven fathoms 
 of water. 
 
 During the course of the forenoon, however, 
 as I was sitting down below writing my diary, 
 a curious grating sound and sudden stopping of 
 
F. Leybourne Popham. 
 
 To face page 92 
 
AGROUND 93 
 
 the engines suggested our having gone aground, 
 and to rush up on deck was of course only a 
 matter of a few seconds. 
 
 Shortly afterwards, with the fog gradually 
 lifting, we found ourselves barely a few yards 
 from the shore, which turned out to be the 
 familiar bleak coast-line of Waigatz Island. 
 
 No time was lost in lowering a boat to ascer- 
 tain the condition of the tide. 
 
 Great excitement prevailed, which helped to 
 break the long monotony of the voyage through 
 the Kara Sea. 
 
 With characteristic instinctiveness and quick- 
 ness of perception Mr. Popham carried out his ideas, 
 and steering the Blencathra full speed ahead, and 
 then full speed astern, realised his anticipations. 
 
 We were once more afloat, and, owing to the 
 sandy soil, the Blencathra escaped unscathed. 
 
 Meanwhile the natives of Waigatz Island had 
 turned out on the beach — a motley crowd of men, 
 women, and children — to witness our doings. 
 
 Their curiosity resulted in four Samoyedes 
 rowing towards us, and shortly afterwards one 
 
94 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 after the other clambered on board. Needless 
 to add that their delight was great, and their 
 surprise still greater, as they calmly watched the 
 crew's proceedings. 
 
 Finally the fog lifted entirely, and once more we 
 were directing our course towards Khabarova, 
 the little village which had witnessed, on our out- 
 ward journey, our first acquaintance with Siberian 
 territory and its natives. As we dropped anchor 
 off this quaint fishing station we were greeted by 
 a familiar figure sitting in a Berthon boat. 
 
 Much to our surprise we recognised Mr. 
 Jackson. 
 
 We had, it will be remembered, deposited him 
 among the Samoyedes, his intention being to 
 explore the unknown inland peninsula of Yalmal, 
 and to spend a winter there, in the hope of 
 ultimately putting into execution his projects with 
 regard to the North Pole. 
 
 He came on board and enlivened us all with 
 an account of his varied experiences since 
 bidding us farewell. 
 
 He had only just returned from exploring the 
 
MR. JACKSON 95 
 
 Waigatz Island, accompanied by a Samoyede and 
 his wife as guides. The fact of his having so far 
 abandoned his previously settled intention with 
 respect to Yalmal, was owing to the ground not 
 being as yet covered with its thick white mantle, 
 thus rendering locomotion by means of sledge 
 and reindeer somewhat precarious. 
 
 He seemed quite happy amongst the Samo- 
 yedes, although he had neither friend nor com- 
 panion, and was in entire ignorance of their 
 language. 
 
 A Russian sloop happened to be lying at 
 anchor at Khabarova, which accounted for the 
 Samoyedes being all more or less in a bac- 
 chanalian condition, a plentiful supply of spirit 
 having been obtained from the Muscovite ship. 
 
 Mr. Jackson, whose acquaintance with their 
 habits was the result of personal association and 
 experience, gave us miserable accounts of their 
 devotion to spirits, such as vodka, and a decoction 
 dignified by the name of brandy. So strong is 
 this craving that they are ready to barter every- 
 thing they possess in order to gratify their passion 
 
96 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 for drink. Such demoralisation forms a sad 
 
 comment on the practice of carrying civilisation 
 
 to otherwise unsophisticated and simple-minded 
 
 tribes. 
 
 Meanwhile the Orestes had not yet turned 
 
 up, since parting company with us in the Kara 
 Sea. 
 
 Mr. Jackson dined and slept on board, which 
 he seemed thoroughly to enjoy after such a long 
 spell of roughing it. 
 
 On the following day, 26th September, the 
 Orestes appeared on the horizon, and in a couple 
 of hours was lying at anchor beside us. 
 
 We had not quitted the yacht to go ashore, 
 but the steward had gone to bargain for rein- 
 deer tongues, which were to form our staple 
 food for the next few days. Indeed, they were 
 delicious, exquisitely flavoured, and a great 
 delicacy, which I not only appreciated from a 
 "gourmet" point of view, but from the novelty, 
 to me, attached to them. I cared less for the 
 venison itself. 
 
 Time was now pressing, and late autumnal 
 
A CHANGE OF ROUTE 97 
 
 weather setting in, which greatly diminishes 
 the charm of yachting. 
 
 We were anxious to get on, and accordingly, 
 once again in tow of the Orestes, we took leave 
 of Mr. Jackson, the Samoyedes, and Siberia, 
 and steamed through the Pet or Yugor Straits, 
 bound for Archangel. The reason of this devia- 
 tion in our homeward voyage was owing to 
 the Orestes having been unable to discharge 
 all the rails on the lighters at Golchika, and 
 she was therefore carrying a cargo of 1100, 
 to be trans-shipped at Archangel. 
 
 Far from being disappointed at this change 
 in our programme, I was greatly pleased at the 
 thought of seeing a Russian seaport, which 
 had been pictured to me as not only of com- 
 mercial importance but of interesting sur- 
 roundings. 
 
 On the 27th of September the usual motion 
 at sea again upset me, and although far from 
 pleasant, I began to look upon sea-sickness merely 
 as a matter of course, to be borne with complete 
 indifference, and have certainly come to the 
 
 H 
 
9 8 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 conclusion that no remedy has been found to 
 cure this weakness. 
 
 We were now steaming through the waters of 
 the Barents Sea, which was particularly devoid of 
 any interest or excitement. A dense fog hung 
 heavily around, and it was cold, raw, and damp. 
 
 The days were particularly uneventful, — no 
 sound to be heard but the surging of the waves 
 and the thump of the engines. 
 
 On the 28th of September it turned brighter, 
 but yet no land was to be seen, and no vessels 
 being met with in our course rendered our 
 loneliness still more complete. 
 
 As I paced the decks the various aspects of 
 the sea brought home to me a familiar passage, 
 which I here take occasion to quote : — 
 
 Turn to the watery world, but who to thee 
 
 (A wonder yet unviewed) shall paint the sea — 
 
 Various and vast, sublime in all its forms, 
 
 When lulled by zephyrs, or when roused by storms ; 
 
 Its colours changing, when from clouds and sun 
 
 Shades after shades upon the surface run, 
 
 Embrowned and horrid now, and then serene 
 
 In limpid blue, and evanescent green, 
 
 And oft the foggy banks on ocean lie, 
 
 Lift the fair sail, and cheat the experienced eye. 
 
THE WHITE SEA 99 
 
 In anticipation of a return to more civilised 
 society we spent much of our time on deck, 
 talking to the skipper and sailors, with their 
 endless stock of adventures, anecdotes, and yarns, 
 or else down below in the main cabin, reading 
 arctic adventures or playing familiar airs, never 
 before heard in these remote regions. 
 
 After rounding Cape Kanin we found our- 
 selves coasting along the Kola Peninsula, and, 
 entering on September 29th the White Sea or 
 Bieloie More, we were once more within reach of 
 our destination. Russian fishing-crafts now kept 
 sailing by in large numbers, awakening in us 
 quite a spirit of delight at the approach of a 
 grand seaport. English steamers were also to 
 be seen laden with timber from Archangel home- 
 ward bound. At 4 p.m. we were off Cape Orlov, 
 presenting by its conspicuous lighthouse a feature 
 on the otherwise unbroken sombre coast-line of 
 the Kola Peninsula. 
 
 The White Sea was very calm as we steamed 
 along on its pellucid waters, but I am told it 
 is often subject to frightful squalls and storms, 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 which lash the coast with great fury. The 
 width of the inland sea in some parts is con- 
 siderable, and, while coasting along, the opposite 
 shore is invisible : navigation is only open during 
 four months of the year. 
 
 About the 20th of October winter sets in, 
 making a sudden irruption without prelude or 
 warning. The White Sea is entirely frozen 
 over in a very short time, and remains so until 
 the breaking up of the ice at the end of May. 
 
 On the 30th September we were steaming 
 along the eastern shore, and were delighted to 
 be once more within limit of luxurious vegeta- 
 tion, after gazing for so many weeks on barren 
 scenery. 
 
 Indeed, as we moved south, the shore 
 gradually opened to us the aspect of thick forests 
 of pine and fir trees. Meanwhile the crew were 
 busy polishing up the decks, dabbing paint here 
 and there, and trimming up the ship so spick and 
 span, to look as if we were on an easy summer 
 cruise, rather than returning from a perilous expedi- 
 tion to the remote waters of the Great Yenesei. 
 
IN THE DWINA 
 
 At noon we stopped alongside Morjovet Island, 
 where was stationed a light -ship, with a signal 
 flying, denoting pilots to be had. Shortly after- 
 wards we saw a boat rowing towards us with 
 Russian Custom - House officers. Their first 
 question on approaching us was with regard 
 to our health ; secondly, whence we hailed. 
 The answer, " From the Yenesei River, Siberia," 
 pronounced with pride and emphasis, completely 
 took them aback. They gazed at us in amaze- 
 ment, and not till after we had repeated the 
 same reply over and over again did they seem 
 to understand. 
 
 We then began to realise that we had actually 
 achieved something to be proud of, by a voyage 
 which we had hitherto regarded as nothing re- 
 markable, owing to the comfortable and delightful 
 auspices under which it had been conducted. 
 
 Taking a pilot on board for navigation up the 
 river Dwina, we resumed our course. 
 
 The Orestes had dropped the tow-rope and 
 was heading us. 
 
 Crossing the bar, we entered the mouth of the 
 
io2 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 river, and gradually became enraptured by its 
 winding course, at times so narrow that the 
 banks looked as if likely to close in upon us at 
 every turn. The steering was excellent, and we 
 all clustered near the helm in admiration of the 
 brave old pilot's skill, by which we threaded and 
 glided through the sinuosities and intricate 
 navigation of our passage. The scenery was 
 magnificent, the trees exhibiting varied hues of 
 brilliant autumnal colouring. I cannot remember 
 to have ever been so much impressed by the 
 beauties of nature. Perhaps the dreary Siberian 
 soil having been for so many weeks the object of 
 my daily gaze somewhat accounted for this burst 
 of enthusiasm. 
 
 The weather had turned exceedingly mild, 
 and the evening was glorious. 
 
 At 6 p.m. we finally reached Solombola, and 
 dropped anchor off this island, situated at only a 
 short distance from Archangel and connected 
 with it by means of a bridge. Business being, as 
 a rule, conducted here, accounted for our not 
 lying off Archangel. 
 
AT ARCHANGEL 103 
 
 No sooner had we dropped anchor than we 
 thought of going ashore. The Custom- House 
 officers, however, not having been on board to 
 conclude the necessary formalities, no one was 
 allowed to quit the ship. 
 
 Eventually they turned up. Two of them 
 appeared in uniform, accompanied by an inter- 
 preter. We were thoroughly cross -questioned, 
 and our respective answers put down on paper. 
 
 The ladies' presence particularly puzzled them. 
 They could not believe we had thus voluntarily 
 accompanied the expedition to the Yenesei, 
 braved the perils of the Kara Sea, and all dangers 
 attached to arctic exploration. I suppose they 
 looked upon us as very eccentric beings ; but I 
 afterwards heard that we were the subjects of 
 much admiration and astonishment, on account of 
 the dangers and the novelty of our enterprise. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 The city of Archangel — Its trade, rise, and decline — A drive in a 
 droshki — Lunch and Russian music — We visit the Museum 
 and the Cathedral — Fairs and furs — The love of vodka — 
 A shooting party — The Monastery of Solavetski — We part 
 company with the Orestes. 
 
 The city of Archangel, situated on the right bank 
 of the river North Dwina, was founded in 15S4 
 under the name of New Cholmagor ; twenty-nine 
 years later the name was changed to that of 
 Archangel, from the monastery dedicated to the 
 Archangel Michael. The province is three times 
 the size of England, and stretches from the Lap- 
 land coast to the Ural Mountains, including the 
 islands of Kolguiev, Waigatz, and Novaia Zemlia. 
 The population of 338,715 inhabitants includes 
 Korelians, Zirians, Samoyedes, and Lapps. 
 Archangel's chief historical importance lies in the 
 fact of its having been the first and for a long 
 
ARCHANGEL 105 
 
 time the only port of Russia. The distinguished 
 and ill-fated explorer, Chancellor, touched there 
 with his expedition, from which time dates the 
 importance of the place from a commercial point 
 of view. 
 
 In 1693 Peter the Great visited Archangel, 
 and built there the first Russian ship, besides an 
 Admiralty House and a wharf at Solombola. At 
 the beginning of this century, in the reign of 
 Alexander I., Archangel was most thriving and 
 of great importance, owing to Napoleon having 
 closed all the ports of Europe against English 
 ships with the exception of Archangel, so that a 
 large trade was actively carried on with Great 
 Britain. From the time of the Crimean war, 
 however, when an English squadron under the 
 command of Captain Erasmus Ommany block- 
 aded the White Sea and stopped all commerce, 
 the trade of Archangel declined. The English 
 colony left, Germans took their place, and so far 
 it has never recovered the blow. " But times are 
 altered, trades unfeeling train " has passed to 
 younger and more active rivals, and while newer 
 
io6 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 and less inaccessible ports have enjoyed the 
 advantages of a later civilisation, the ancient seat 
 of Russia's foreign trade is still almost an outcast 
 from all. More than 600 miles sever Archangel 
 from all railway communication, and only one 
 telegraphic wire at present connects it with 
 the capital. Such trade as exists is now 
 mostly carried on by English steamers, of which 
 90 to 130 visit the port each season, whilst, on 
 account of the heavy tax recently imposed on 
 German ships, an increase of tariff dues amount- 
 ing from ten kopeks per ton to two roubles, the 
 German commercial trade is almost completely 
 extinguished. The chief article of export is 
 timber, imports being very limited, as nearly all 
 ships come in with ballast after discharging coal 
 at Norwegian ports on their way. 
 
 In old days officials in disgrace were banished 
 to Archangel, while in the present day those who 
 are found guilty of dishonest practices are sent 
 here, with perfect liberty to go where they like or 
 to do what they like, provided they remain in the 
 district. Almost all the business people of Arch- 
 
THE DROSHKI 107 
 
 angel are of German extraction, very few of 
 English origin, but at present their families are 
 mostly Russianised in feeling and habits. 
 
 The morning following our arrival at Solom- 
 bola, the 1st of October, we resolved to drive over 
 to Archangel to gain an impression of Russian 
 life, as it is presented in this ancient seaport. 
 Several droshkis had been ordered, and the 
 weather having turned exceedingly mild, we were 
 full of joyous expectations. 
 
 The droshkis are most curious-looking vehicles, 
 unfitted with a hood, and generally so small that 
 two people can barely occupy with ease and com- 
 fort the space allotted to each. On the other 
 hand, some are constructed much after the fashion 
 of an Irish jaunting car, on which travellers sit back 
 to back, journeying along sideways, when no little 
 adroitness is required to keep yourselves steady on 
 your seats ; but those who have acquired the art 
 of cleverly adjusting themselves to the situation, 
 hold that it is a very comfortable vehicle, and by 
 no means unsociable, in spite of appearances to 
 the contrary. 
 
108 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Off we went in our respective droshkis, bump- 
 ing and jolting most fearfully over uneven roads, 
 falling and rising occasionally in and out of a deep 
 rut with a crash and a bump that sent the mud 
 splashing all over us. The little Russian ponies 
 are very speedy, and tore off at quite an alarming 
 rate, landing us in a very short time in Archangel. 
 Our impression was in many respects not in ac- 
 cordance with our anticipations. 
 
 The town, as we approached it, presented on 
 the whole and at first sight a most decayed and 
 squalid appearance. The streets are dirty, and 
 the pavements little better. However, a confused 
 mass of buildings, minarets, and churches, with 
 their star-spangled domes and gold crosses flash- 
 ing in the sun, offered rather a pretty coup dceiL 
 Very few houses built of stone are to be seen ; they 
 are mostly of wood, consist but of one floor, and 
 present a most picturesque aspect with their 
 emerald green and crushed-strawberry coloured 
 wooden roofs. This harmonious blending of 
 delicate tints gives an agreeable colouring to the 
 natural features of the town, of which the principal 
 
AT LUNCH 109 
 
 street is Troitski Prospect, and on further acquaint- 
 ance we thought the panorama extremely pretty, 
 and quite unlike anything we had ever seen before. 
 What struck me on first passing through the 
 streets was, to all outward appearance, the entire 
 absence of shops, which as a rule give so much 
 local colouring and life to a place. Of course 
 there are shops, but from the outside they are un- 
 recognisable, as no goods are displayed in the win- 
 dows. I was told that this is a custom throughout 
 most Russian towns, where the intense cold dur- 
 ing the winter months necessitates double and 
 sometimes treble windows. 
 
 For lunch we directed our steps to what we 
 were told to be the best restaurant in Archangel, 
 the approach to which was far from tempting. 
 However we went in. A large collection of 
 tradespeople and peasants were sitting at separate 
 tables, enjoying a curious sort of repast of pickled 
 cucumbers and vodka. The heat was overpower- 
 ing, and we had again to undergo a former 
 experience of a musty stuffy atmosphere with a 
 curious smell prevailing of something like rotten 
 
no POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 leather. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, we 
 sat down to our lunch. The beer, called quass, 
 manufactured from fermented grain and greatly 
 relished by the Russians, was pronounced to be 
 very good. 
 
 During our repast a band performed. Russian 
 music is intensely melancholy, most of the national 
 melodies being in the minor key, wailing and 
 lamenting, with little time or rhythm, like those 
 of the Tsiganes. 
 
 After our experience of the oppressive atmo- 
 sphere and strange surroundings we departed to 
 seek for curiosities, in search of shops where such 
 may be found, but in that respect x^rchangel is 
 very deficient. We first directed our steps 
 towards the Museum, a tumble-down miserable- 
 looking building, containing three or four small 
 rooms crowded with all sorts of relics. The 
 strangest object that interested me most was the 
 skeleton of a mammoth. I only wished the flesh- 
 less monster could have answered a few questions 
 as to the life of his time, and how he got on with 
 primitive man, whether he had to work for his 
 
THE CATHEDRAL 
 
 living under human domination, or how many- 
 men he had killed, and who or what killed him. 
 These and a few more questions it would be 
 interesting to have answered by an intelligent 
 mammoth with a good memory. 
 
 At 5 p.m. we attended the Greek service at the 
 Cathedral, which forms a conspicuous feature in 
 the square. The outer walls are decorated with 
 paintings of religious subjects, and the spires are 
 of gilt with emerald-green tints freely displayed. 
 The interior presented a most gaudy appearance, 
 with much richness of decoration and massive 
 gold ikons plastered with gems. The priest was 
 robed in gorgeous vestments, and conducted the 
 service in a very solemn manner, earnest and 
 impressive. There being no seats, the congrega- 
 tion necessarily stood during the service, only 
 varying their position by a constant dropping on 
 the knees, prostrating their foreheads to the 
 ground, and making the sign of the cross, the 
 reverse way to the Roman Catholic devotee. As 
 in all Greek Churches, the Cathedral service was 
 devoid of instrumental music ; only vocal sounds 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 are to be heard, which, indeed, are most melo- 
 dious. The choir contained two splendid bass 
 voices, the effect of which was very grand. 
 
 At the conclusion of the service, about 6.30 p.m., 
 we walked towards Solombola, but, with no 
 artificial light in the streets, we could hardly 
 grope our way about on the wooden pavement, 
 not in quite as smooth a condition as might have 
 been wished. So we called a droshki, a shabby 
 vehicle, one of those shaped like the Irish car; 
 and so, back to back, we homeward sped. 
 
 Far from finding it cold at Archangel, we 
 enjoyed during the whole of our stay a spell of 
 very mild weather, so that we were enabled to 
 steam about in our little launch every day, towards 
 the town, where a fair happened to be going on, 
 in which a motley crowd was to be seen, giving 
 one a very good idea of national life. A varied 
 assortment of articles for household use and 
 personal adornment was displayed, also furs and 
 leather goods, the unpleasant odour from which I 
 have already alluded to. As I had acquired the 
 knowledge of a few Russian words, I now made 
 
SPOONS AND FURS 113 
 
 some purchases, amongst other things, as a 
 curiosity, of several wooden spoons used by the 
 Russian peasants to eat their food, and while at 
 Golchika I had the honour of being presented 
 with one by the priest of Turukhansk. What 
 particularly took my fancy was a peculiar fur, 
 which I was told was very rare, called vulpes 
 crucigera, a variety of the cams vulpes ; of a soft 
 gray colour with a beautifully marked black cross 
 down the back. It is the fur of quite young foxes, 
 who, when they grow older, completely change 
 their colour. As a rule it is a mistake to suppose 
 that good furs can be purchased only in Russia, 
 for most of these are sent to England, and it is a 
 fact that even Russians come to London for their 
 furs, where they are much better made up than in 
 their own country. 
 
 One afternoon as we were walking along the 
 quay we happened to see a yacht at anchor near 
 Archangel. On approaching, it turned out to be 
 the Nordenskiold, belonging to Mr. Siberiakoff. 
 With our usual inquisitiveness we proposed going 
 on board and having a look round, when the 
 
ii 4 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Russian captain appearing on deck, invited us to 
 his cabin and received us with warm hospitality. 
 Champagne was instantly ordered, and we did not 
 fail to drink to the health and to the well-being of 
 a country and people from whom we had met 
 with such kindness and cordiality. Afterwards 
 we sat some time conversing with the captain, 
 who had a very good knowledge of German, 
 which greatly facilitated our intercourse, until, as 
 it began to get dusk, we bade adieu to our 
 friendly host. Judging from our experience, there 
 can be no people in the world who are more 
 genuinely kind and hospitable to strangers than 
 the Russians. They possess in an eminent degree 
 that ease and grace of manner, and an undefinable 
 attraction which is so socially captivating. 
 
 Leaving the Nordenskiold, we walked to- 
 wards the landing stage, to find our little steam- 
 launch ready to convey us back to Solombola. 
 Never shall I forget the exquisite beauty of that 
 homeward trip, under an indigo sky irradiated 
 with millions of shimmering worlds, each one 
 seeming to be a gigantic diamond, the brilliancy 
 
BEAUTY AND VICE 115 
 
 of which darkened the neighbouring spaces to 
 illimitable and mystic depths. We then glided 
 swiftly through the still placid waters studded with 
 the reflection of countless glittering stars. The 
 spires and buildings of the city clustering round 
 the golden dome of the Cathedral loomed out in 
 the twilight with enhanced size and grandeur, yet 
 at the same time clear and distinct as at noonday, 
 more like a dream than a waking experience, 
 whilst the mildness of the atmosphere gave an 
 additional charm. 
 
 Archangel, viewed from the river, at some 
 distance, forms a lovely picture which, alas, fades 
 almost immediately on stepping into its midst, for 
 the love of vodka seems to reign supreme among 
 the people, and too frequently one is shocked by 
 the sight of victims to excessive indulgence in this 
 prevalent taste. 
 
 The surroundings of Archangel are exceedingly 
 pretty. Numbers of picturesque little islands are to 
 be seen dotted promiscuously about on the north 
 bank of the Dwina, and of an afternoon we often 
 employed our time in exploring them. There is 
 
n6 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 excellent shooting to be had on the mainland : of 
 wild animals may be mentioned the bear, wolf, 
 fox, reindeer, hare, etc. But few people visit Arch- 
 angel, and only two English yachts have been 
 there during the last six or seven years, the 
 Thistle, belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, and 
 the Blencathra. 
 
 Before leaving Archangel, Mr. James was 
 asked to join a shooting expedition. These 
 excursions generally take place on a Sunday. 
 The party consisted of half a dozen sports- 
 men. They called for Mr. James at 8 p.m., and 
 steamed up the Dwina in a little steam-launch. 
 The whole night was spent in playing cards, 
 drinking, and smoking till 4 a.m. on Sunday 
 morning, when the destination having been 
 reached they all landed to begin their day's 
 shooting. Beaters had been provided before- 
 hand, consisting of a number of little boys, who 
 with cowbells made enough noise to frighten any 
 one out of their senses. This commotion, how- 
 ever, conduced to the desired result. Notwith- 
 standing the effects of dissipated hours, the sport 
 
THE MONASTER Y 117 
 
 was conducted with great success, lasting from 
 early dawn till twilight, the party returning late 
 on Sunday. 
 
 The British Vice-Consul, Mr. Cooke, who has 
 been here for many years, was full of amiable 
 attentions, and contributed much to the thorough 
 enjoyment we derived from our stay. He recom- 
 mended a visit to the Monastery of Solavetski, 
 the Mecca of Russia, situated on an island in the 
 White Sea, at some short distance from Kem on 
 the coast of Lapland. Owing to our sudden 
 departure from Archangel we were obliged, much 
 to our regret, to give up the idea of paying the 
 Monastery a visit. This Monastery, it may be 
 remembered, the British squadron attempted to 
 bombard in 1854, but the shrieks of the sea-gulls, 
 like the geese of the Capitol, warded off the 
 disaster, and they have been looked upon ever 
 since as sacred birds. 
 
 Meantime the Orestes was being laden with 
 a freight of timber. Having seen to all final 
 arrangements, we thought of resuming our home- 
 ward course, and leaving her to follow under the 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 command of Captain Furneaux. It was, how- 
 ever, with a feeling of regret that we parted 
 company after we had acted as convoy to her 
 ever since leaving Vardoe. 
 
 Notwithstanding the unfavourable and un- 
 pleasant impression produced on first acquaint- 
 ance with Archangel, I must admit that with 
 time the place began to grow upon one, 
 and on leaving I carried away with me a 
 hope that this, my first introduction to Russia, 
 might not be the last, and that Archangel would 
 be the stepping - stone to future visits. The 
 germs of love of travel and adventure seem 
 so readily to take root that I have every reason 
 to cherish the thought of the realisation of my 
 wishes. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 Calm and storm — We call for letters at Vardoe — The aurora 
 borealis — Rounding the North Cape — 121 lbs. of fish 
 for two shillings — The northernmost lighthouse in the 
 world — A sail by night to Tromsoe — A Norwegian tabic 
 d'hote — Adventures on the fjords — Trondhyem and 
 Christiansund — Through troubled waters to Dundee. 
 
 Homeward Bound ! 
 
 It was with a feeling of irrepressible delight 
 that I welcomed the familiar sound of the weigh- 
 ing of the anchor at Solombola at 8.30 a.m. on 
 the 1 2th October. It was getting unpleasantly cold 
 and damp, days were closing in, very much 
 curtailing our favourite saunters on deck, which 
 after all constitutes much of the enjoyment of 
 a sea-cruise. Our stock of chatter had by this 
 time been considerably drawn upon, our music 
 had been played and strummed over and over 
 again, books of travel and science had been read, 
 digested, and discussed more than once, in fact 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 we had rather fallen short of resources for 
 mutual amusement or instruction. However, the 
 thought of returning once more safe and sound 
 to one's home associations, to be the object of 
 " much ado " by friends and relations, in other 
 words, to have accomplished something out of 
 the common, produced in me a feeling of satis- 
 faction and contentment which, after all, is pleas- 
 ing to every one, notwithstanding the strong 
 flavour of vanity which it is sure to imply. But 
 youth has the advantages of youth, and among 
 them indulgence from those of riper years. 
 
 Onward we steamed down the river Dwina, 
 piloted by the same old Muscovite we had had 
 previously. The fog being thick, we had to 
 bring up at 11.30 a.m., and not till 3 p.m. were 
 we able to proceed. During the course of the 
 afternoon we dropped our pilot at the light- 
 ship. Once again we were in the White Sea, 
 enjoying a delightful calm, which contrasted 
 all the more cruelly with the fearful gale we were 
 about to experience on entering the Murmanian 
 Sea, all the way to Vardoe. The object of our 
 
UPS AND DO WNS 
 
 returning to this " fishy " little island was to 
 pick up letters ; we had been without news 
 since last quitting Norway, and we were 
 pining to hear what had taken place in 
 England and abroad since entrusting our pre- 
 cious lives to the unknown mysteries of polar 
 regions. 
 
 After passing Cape Orlov a fair wind set in, 
 and gradually freshened into a strong north-east 
 breeze, with snow squalls. The rolling of the 
 ship from side to side was positively alarming, 
 beating the record since our first setting out to 
 sea. I could not quit my bed for fear of being 
 pitched all over the place, but my work was 
 amply cut out and my strength fully put to the 
 test in trying to hold on to my mattress, an exer- 
 cise lasting fully twenty-four hours, with the im- 
 possibility of snatching a few minutes' rest. How 
 I did pity the poor man at the wheel, steering 
 bravely through the snowstorms and squalls ! 
 My fate, after all, was nothing compared to his 
 situation. However, all things pleasant and un- 
 pleasant come to an end, and great was my relief 
 
122 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 when we steamed into the familiar harbour of 
 Vardoe, dropping anchor in its quiet waters at 
 11.30 a.m. on the 15th of October. 
 
 All my miseries were soon forgotten on being 
 the recipient of a bundle of letters from friends 
 and relations. Howl relished the contents ! If 
 they had caused any waste of time to the senders, 
 they would indeed have felt fully recompensed 
 could they have witnessed the appreciation and 
 welcome showered upon their act of kindness. 
 The harbour - master came on board to conduct 
 the usual formalities, and Mr. Holmboe, the 
 British Consul, called to welcome us back again 
 from the icy regions, seeming amazed to see us 
 so well and bright after all the perilous experi- 
 ences he associated with our expedition. 
 
 Vardoe, this time, appeared to us under quite 
 a different aspect, the harbour being deserted by 
 its hundreds of fishing craft, which had presented 
 during the season a very picturesque feature. 
 The little island was sprinkled over with a white 
 coating of snow, and the air, impregnated as 
 usual with the odours I have described, was on 
 
THE AURORA BOREALIS 123 
 
 this occasion particularly devoid of unpleasant- 
 ness. Our stay this time was but of short 
 duration. We weighed anchor that same after- 
 noon, and committed ourselves to the extreme 
 north of Europe. 
 
 Changes of weather are sudden in these latitudes. 
 By three o'clock the wind had dropped as if by 
 magic, and once again we enjoyed smooth waters. 
 The deck was covered with ice and snow, looking 
 arctic indeed. After dinner I enjoyed a stroll 
 on deck. The heavens presented a sight far too 
 grand and imposing to describe. The night was 
 remarkably illumined by myriads of stars, perhaps 
 worlds, as astronomers might say, but the Polar 
 Star outshone its feebler neighbours with such 
 brilliancy as by comparison to materially eclipse 
 their splendour. 
 
 The greatest phenomenon in the Arctic 
 Circle is undoubtedly the effect produced by the 
 aurora borealis, whose magic splendour naturally 
 excited the keenest observation. No one has 
 been able to paint in words this extraordinary 
 vision, which seems to strike a chord in the heart 
 
124 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 of the spectator. They whose roaming imagina- 
 tion has not yet led them to feast on its glories, 
 more especially enjoyed by arctic explorers, should 
 not hesitate to seek the North Cape, where its 
 grandeur is displayed in unwonted magnificence. 
 
 The following morning I was up on deck at 
 early dawn to enjoy the pure exhilarating air, and 
 the majestic outline of the rocky peninsula of 
 Nord Kyn, the most northerly point of continental 
 Europe. The weather was lovely, throwing into 
 bold relief the sombre cliffs, around which hundreds 
 of screeching sea-birds awakened in the solemn 
 stillness weird mysterious echoes. The atmo- 
 sphere was like that of the finest crystal, not a 
 cloud to fleck the sky. The scenery was indeed 
 romantic and grand, and as we steamed onward 
 this glorious panorama never left us. 
 
 It will be remembered that on our outward 
 voyage we missed seeing the North Cape, our 
 course having taken us through a narrow fjord 
 separating the mainland from the star -shaped 
 island of Mageroe. Very soon we found our- 
 selves rounding the Cape, which presented itself 
 
"5. 
 
 
 ■$, 
 
 
 ft, 
 
 
 <y 
 
 
 
 
 
 < 
 
 5. 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 K| 
 
THE NORTH CAPE 125 
 
 to us in the shape of a headland, a huge mass 
 of dark mica slate rising a thousand feet perpen- 
 dicularly from the cold Arctic Sea, backed in the 
 distance by snowy mountain heights sparkling in 
 the rays of sunshine as if cut out in silver against 
 the solid blue of the sky. The accompanying 
 illustration, from a sketch by Mr. Popham, gives 
 a very good idea of the shape and form. I do not 
 think this imposing scene can ever be obliterated 
 from my memory, for I was overwhelmed with the 
 majesty of such a glorious sight, witnessed under 
 such truly favourable circumstances. Spell-bound, 
 I sat on deck in presence of the sublime and won- 
 derful works of nature, in silent thought. I felt 
 as though my eyes were peering into the unseen, as 
 though I were on the threshold of a new world, 
 teeming with unknown perils. All my sympathies 
 were with those gallant explorers who have risked 
 their lives for the advancement of science and 
 challenged an untoward fate in the hope of obtain- 
 ing an advantage for mankind. Yes, indeed, we 
 cannot sufficiently admire such heroic enterprises. 
 And now that I can in a modest way number 
 
126 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 myself among arctic voyagers, I am able in some 
 slight degree to picture to myself the numerous 
 and perilous obstacles to be overcome. May 
 the Norwegian Dr. Nansen, in his endeavour to 
 solve the greatest problem in the world, meet with 
 every success, assured of the warmest sympathy 
 of the civilised world for the realisation of his 
 venturesome enterprise. 
 
 In the course of the afternoon we sighted a 
 small fishing craft with two fishermen busily en- 
 gaged in hauling up the nets, and eager to enjoy 
 some fresh fish we steamed towards them, and 
 lowering the canvas boat, the steward rowed off 
 to obtain what he could, returning after a few 
 minutes with a variety of cod, haddock, and halibut, 
 weighing in all 121 lbs., for which he paid the 
 modest sum of two kroner (2s.) 
 
 Shortly afterwards we saw the conspicuous 
 lighthouse of Fruholm, situated on the island of 
 Ingo, the most northerly lighthouse in the world, 
 and a welcome beacon to the adventurous voyager, 
 as he is wafted to his still more northerly destina- 
 tion. With even still greater welcome does he 
 
STEAMING B Y NIGHT 1 27 
 
 regard, almost as a personal friend, the cheerful 
 guiding light as he returns on his homeward way. 
 Towards evening the setting sun produced a fairy- 
 like appearance, tinging the white summits of the 
 glorious glaciers and their extensive snowfields 
 with a pale rosy hue. Instead of steering our 
 course in a westerly tack, it was settled that our 
 homeward route was to be due south, between the 
 mainland and the islands, which form as it were a 
 gigantic breakwater along the entire western 
 coast of Norway. This decision raised my 
 spirits, for I had looked upon the North Sea at 
 this late autumnal season as associated with grim 
 and dreadful gales, and to think that we were to 
 experience delightful smooth waters all through 
 the fjords was indeed most welcome, in addition 
 to the expectation of enjoying lovely scenery. 
 
 At 6.30 p.m. we sighted a brilliant electric 
 illumination to our left, which proved to be 
 Hammerfest. Just as we were steering towards 
 the town to drop anchor for the night a pleasant 
 alternative suggested itself. Being a clear moon- 
 light night, the pilot proposed taking us straight 
 
128 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 on to Tromsoe ; and accordingly we steamed on 
 afresh and directed our course through the 
 Sorb' Sund, and, viewed only by the light of 
 the heavens, the scene was fantastically weird. 
 The navigation is at all times intricate and dan- 
 gerous, but especially so during the winter nights, 
 which had begun to close in at quite an early 
 hour. Not to lose a single grand sight of the 
 ever-changing panorama we were all up on deck 
 at early dawn. Where indeed does nature pre- 
 sent more variety of picturesque aspect than in 
 the fjords of Norway, or its beauties appeal so 
 intensely to one's sympathies ? 
 
 It was bitterly cold, with many degrees of 
 frost. The morning was, however, bright and 
 sunny, and the scenery quite magnificent. 
 Finally, we anchored off Tromsoe at 1.30 p.m. 
 Our object was to drop several ice-masters, as we 
 found we had no occasion to avail ourselves of their 
 services. After lunch we went ashore to renew 
 acquaintance with the little town. It looked 
 very much deserted. Most of the inhabitants 
 had taken to their cosy houses, and were to be 
 
TROMSOE AGAIN 129 
 
 seen (through the windows) collected in family 
 groups round the large stove, which in these 
 northern latitudes forms the main feature of a 
 Norwegian household. The Lapps, too, who 
 had been of conspicuous interest on our pre- 
 vious visit, had left the town to return to their 
 settlements on the mountains and roam about 
 in their characteristic fashion. They exhibit a 
 wonderful display of vigour and vitality, which 
 somewhat accounts for the way in which they 
 can brave the rigour of the long winter months 
 without injury to their health, although it gives 
 them a prematurely aged look. We strolled 
 about, and were particularly struck with the 
 bright and cleanly appearance of the town. In 
 the afternoon we went into the Grand Hotel to 
 take a cup of coffee, having been warned against 
 the Norwegian notion of making tea. Bread 
 and cheese we found very good, but curiously 
 enough we could obtain no fresh butter, which 
 is not manufactured in such remote latitudes, 
 but has to be imported salted from the south. 
 Towards evening we returned on board, a 
 
 K 
 
i 3 o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 pink glow tinging all the surrounding snowy- 
 peaks. 
 
 The following day, iSth of October, we were 
 still to remain at anchor, some business having 
 to be transacted with the Consul. We therefore 
 took occasion to visit the Museum, which we had 
 heard was full of interesting specimens of all 
 kinds. So extensive had it become of late years, 
 that a building on a much larger scale than the 
 present edifice was being erected at some short 
 distance off. We were highly interested, particu- 
 larly in all the arctic curiosities, of which we 
 were beginning to feel ourselves connoisseurs. 
 
 Instead of returning on board for luncheon, 
 we determined upon trying the Norwegian 
 fashion of table d'hote at two o'clock, since we 
 never before had experienced their cooking. 
 The courses opened with fish, and next came 
 beef with compote, such as is commonly associ- 
 ated with German diet, an incongruous mixture, 
 to which I never could get quite reconciled. 
 The beer was very good, with a delicate 
 flavour of pine. Before returning on board we 
 
TO BERGEN 131 
 
 enjoyed a lively walk through a birch-tree forest 
 up on the hills. 
 
 A pilot had meanwhile been engaged to take 
 us down to Bergen, and next morning anchor 
 was weighed at 6 a.m. It was very foggy, and 
 a heavy snowstorm obliged us to remain down 
 below and occupy our thoughts as best we could. 
 I set to work to obtain by dint of perseverance 
 a slight knowledge of the Norwegian language, 
 of which I soon acquired a smattering, many 
 words having a strong resemblance to German, 
 but sounding if possible more guttural, and like 
 a bad patois. It was damp and cheerless indeed ! 
 However, I was thankful to enjoy smooth water, 
 and not to be tossing about on the ocean, as 
 a strong gale of wind howling with great fury 
 outside suggested to us might have been the 
 case. Owing to the night being very dark, we 
 were obliged to bring up at the small station of 
 Kastnaeshaven, and proceed the following morn- 
 ing at 6 a.m. We steamed through the Vaags 
 and Jiel Fjord, the scenery upon the mainland pre- 
 senting mountains piled up in irregular groups, 
 
132 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 and cliffs rising from the water on either side 
 sheer and abrupt ; yet whenever a green patch 
 was to be seen a few huts were sure to be 
 found clusterino- together at the foot of some 
 stupendous mass of rock, giving colour to the 
 view, which would otherwise have looked un- 
 utterably desolate. 
 
 Not being able to fetch another anchorage 
 before dark, the pilot, a cautious old sailor, 
 suggested spending the night at Lodingen, 
 prettily situated on "Hindo" Island. Accord- 
 ingly anchor was dropped at 3.30 p.m. We 
 went ashore to have a brisk walk so as to 
 keep ourselves warm. The chief building, situ- 
 ated in the midst of half a dozen wooden houses, 
 was a huge telegraph office, forming a very 
 important station, in which many people are 
 daily employed. Whenever we landed numer- 
 ous inquiries were made with regard to Dr. 
 Nansen, and the general opinion seemed to be 
 that if thorough knowledge, mature reflection, 
 and indomitable pluck can secure success, he is 
 most decidedly the man to achieve it. 
 
grOto 133 
 
 The following day we proceeded through the 
 Vest Fjord. Owing to the mist, which hid the 
 famous view, we could only distinguish a faint 
 outline of the Lofoden Islands. Those numer- 
 ous sharp peaks, covered with snow and set off 
 by a cloudless blue sky and dazzling sunshine, 
 would have been perfectly divine to behold. 
 The approach to Groto, where the pilot brought 
 up early in the afternoon, was quite magnificent. 
 The majestic peak of the Skothammer rose high 
 and perpendicular to our left on the mainland, 
 and the navigation through a narrow inlet, inter- 
 spersed with rocks, demanded quick and careful 
 steering. Groto presented an exceedingly pretty 
 sheltered harbour, with most picturesque sur- 
 roundings. In order to kill time, which was 
 beginning to hang heavily on our hands, on 
 account of the slow progress we were making, 
 we went for a walk on the beach. We also 
 took our dogs for a run, which they seemed 
 to enjoy quite as much as we did. Poor things 
 — five of them — they seemed to understand per- 
 fectly well each time we dropped anchor, and 
 
134 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 sat on the edge of the ship, looking longingly 
 towards the shore ; so excited were they on 
 nearing the beach that, one and all, they jumped 
 into the icy cold water, and tore in wild spirits 
 all over the place. On one occasion they chased 
 and scared a whole herd of cows, which were 
 driven for a considerable distance on the hills. 
 The amazed inhabitants, half dormant perhaps 
 at the approach of winter, soon appeared on the 
 threshold of their wooden huts, not at first able 
 to realise who had come at this remote season 
 of the year to ruffle the calm simplicity of 
 their lives. It was indeed a lively sight, and 
 amused us immensely. 
 
 The following morning, on leaving Groto, the 
 navigation became most excitingly intricate. We 
 had to steer through narrow channels, with rocks 
 strewn about us in every direction. Unfortun- 
 ately, the cold, damp weather greatly diminished 
 the enjoyment of sitting for hours together upon 
 deck to watch our course. 
 
 The panorama never ceased to be imposing. 
 Although seen under unfavourable circumstances, 
 
O 6 
 
ACROSS THE ARCTIC CIRCLE 135 
 
 the days being gloomy and the atmosphere 
 sometimes slightly misty, yet I think this sombre 
 colouring was in keeping with the savage grandeur 
 of the scenery. We had a splendid view of the 
 Sandhorn, which was covered with snow, as well 
 as of the Fiiglo Island. In the distance one 
 beholds a lovely chain of snowy mountains with 
 lofty peaks, or rather domes, towering high into 
 the heavens. No one has any idea of Norwegian 
 scenery unless they have been in the country. 
 Norway must be seen, it cannot be described. 
 The tourist season closes, as a rule, towards the 
 end of August ; so steaming, as we did, at the end 
 of October, through the fjords, we came in for a 
 wintry aspect, in strong contrast to the bright 
 summer season of the ordinary tourist. 
 
 On October the 23rd we crossed the Arctic 
 Circle. It was, perhaps, not without a feeling of 
 satisfaction that we quitted the frigid zone to enter 
 a more temperate one. As we steamed along we 
 met with perpetual variety in form and feature ; 
 so much so, that we never got tired of gazing at 
 nature's wonders. In the course of the after- 
 
1 3 6 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 noon we dropped anchor at Sbvig, quite a small 
 hamlet. It, however, deserves mention, being 
 situated at the foot of one of the grandest 
 mountains I have ever seen. It is called Syv 
 Sostre, or Seven Sisters, from the fact of its 
 forming a chain with seven distinct successive 
 peaks. 
 
 The following day we resumed our course. 
 On leaving the charmingly situated village of 
 Brono, we passed through a crooked channel, 
 scarcely wider than the yacht, to find ourselves 
 in an almost land-locked bay. Then we came in 
 view of a famous mountain called Torghatten. It 
 has the appearance of a broad-brimmed hat, and 
 as we approached we distinguished a curious 
 tunnel through it. The old pilot, a walking 
 guide-book of the Norwegian fjords, informed 
 us that at half its height it is perforated by an 
 orifice, through which the light may distinctly be 
 seen, the tunnel having a length of 540 feet. As 
 may be supposed, this curiously-shaped mountain 
 is not without a legend. The story goes, that 
 two giants were rivals for a girl, and agreed to 
 
A LEGEND 137 
 
 fight a duel with bows and arrows. One was 
 pierced by an arrow, which, when it was drawn 
 out, the dying giant threw about ten miles off, 
 where it sank and became a rock. This rock is 
 now avoided by ships, as very dangerous, and 
 can only be seen at low tide. Torghatten is 
 the dead giant, and the aperture is where the 
 arrow was drawn from. Certainly the mountain 
 forms one of the most conspicuous and striking 
 features in the fjords. 
 
 For several successive days we steamed slowly 
 on, anchoring over night off pretty little hamlets, 
 and resuming our course at dawn. The cold 
 rainy weather began to damp our spirits, till at 
 last the approach of Trondhyem awakened in us 
 new interests. Late at night, on October 30th, 
 the yacht was moored inside the harbour, and 
 the following day was spent in inspecting the 
 town. 
 
 Trondhyem, now the second city of the king- 
 dom, was the capital of Norway until the four- 
 teenth century, and enjoyed considerable import- 
 ance as a royal residence. It is said to have 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 been founded in 996, under the name of Nidaros, 
 after the river Nid, which appellation, however, 
 was changed in the sixteenth century to that of 
 Trondhyem. The patron saint is Olaf. The great 
 glory of the town is concentrated in its old 
 Cathedral. 
 
 From the Hotel Britannia we directed our 
 steps towards the Munke Gade, which leads up 
 to it. There we found a guide, who took us all 
 round, and interested us immensely with all the 
 information he imparted to us. Part of the 
 building through which we had to pass is in 
 ruins, but the work of restoration is now being 
 actively carried on. The architecture is old 
 Norman. Great richness of decoration is dis- 
 played, remarkable in detail, which is exquisite 
 for execution, beauty, and purity of style. 
 The arches are also most graceful. St. Olaf's 
 Well is an interesting feature, so is the magnifi- 
 cent statue of Christ, by Thorwaldsen, placed 
 in one of the niches. The Chapter-House forms 
 a curious contrast to the transition period, being 
 entirely devoid of richness of decoration of any 
 
TRONDHYEM 139 
 
 kind. During the summer months it is generally 
 given over to the English residents for divine 
 service. The stone, quarried in the locality, is of 
 a curious blue slate colour, of extreme hardness. 
 The present king of Sweden, Oscar II., was 
 crowned in this Cathedral in 1872. It is sur- 
 rounded by a graveyard, which is now converted 
 into a kind of pleasure-garden. 
 
 Besides lounging about the streets, which 
 seemed particularly devoid of bustle and life, 
 time and darkness prevented us from visiting 
 any other sights. We returned to the Hotel 
 Britannia for tea, and regained the yacht at 
 9.30 p.m. It was bitterly cold, with several degrees 
 of frost. Our impression of Trondhyem was that 
 of a sober dreary-looking town, and, apart from 
 its Cathedral, showed little to impress us. 
 
 Early on 1st of November we were steaming 
 once more through the Trondhyem Fjord, with 
 a view to shaping our course straight for 
 Dundee. However, as fate would have it, a 
 head-wind set in, with a falling barometer. The 
 pilot advised keeping to smooth waters inside 
 
140 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 the fjords, instead of beating against the wind 
 in the North Sea. His advice was fully en- 
 dorsed by me, for I dreaded the crossing 
 in a rough sea. For several days more, the 
 weather having cleared, we enjoyed the lovely 
 wintry scenery of the fjords, which seemed 
 to grow more magnificent with each successive 
 hour. 
 
 Our next anchorage of importance was inside 
 the sheltered harbour of Christiansund, an 
 admirable landscape, grand and wild, with for- 
 midable peaks around, forming to my mind one 
 of the most delightful spots in the fjords. 
 Numerous picturesque fishing-smacks were to be 
 seen lying at anchor. The town, of considerable 
 dimensions, with 10,000 inhabitants or more, is 
 curiously built in the shape of an amphitheatre. 
 The surroundings are both graceful and enchant- 
 ing, and we were told that a relation of a well- 
 known English family has taken up his entire 
 abode there, and never quits it, even during the 
 long winter months. 
 
 Christiansund carries on an active trade in 
 
OUT TO SEA 141 
 
 fisheries, forming one of the most important 
 stations in Norway. Its trade is chiefly with 
 France and Spain. 
 
 The next day we were off the renowned and 
 dreaded rock-strewn stretch of Hustadviken. 
 Rocks are to be seen scattered about, barely 
 showing above the water. We had a magnificent 
 view of the Molde Fjord and its grand mountain 
 scenery, forming one of the finest in Norway. 
 Indeed it is difficult for me to give an adequate 
 idea of what I feel utterly incapable to describe. 
 The most graphic pen would fail to portray with 
 justice the many fair and impressive scenes viewed 
 from the yacht's deck. 
 
 Finally, however, on rounding the promontory 
 of Statland, which juts out into the sea, the 
 skipper sent word to say that a fair wind had set 
 in, and taking advantage of it, he was making 
 for Dundee instead of keeping to smooth water 
 down to Bergen. 
 
 No sooner were we in the North Sea than my 
 miseries began afresh. Squalls and hailstorms 
 raged with violence, and we were rolled about 
 
1 4 2 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 unmercifully. I was indeed wretched. Keeping 
 as best I could to my berth, I felt, although so 
 near, I might perhaps never see my home again, 
 and my anxiety at returning was greater than I 
 can describe. Hours dragged on ; the three days 
 seemed endless. For want of fresh air and some- 
 thing to do, I opened my port-hole to cool my 
 excitement, but before I had time to realise this 
 act of thoughtlessness, I found myself thoroughly 
 cooled down and well drenched as a punishment 
 for such imprudence. A huge wave had worked 
 its way into my cabin, volumes of water simply 
 inundating me and my berth. However, with- 
 out losing presence of mind, I used all my 
 strength to close the port-hole. Shivering with 
 cold and helpless as a drowned rat, I called for 
 assistance to the steward, who arrived on the 
 scene much dismayed at my appearance. With his 
 usual attentiveness and quickness of action, all 
 was put right again in a very short time. I was 
 taken into a vacant cabin, much 'amused at what 
 had happened, and completely cured of sea- 
 sickness ! Thus, at the very close of our 
 
HOME AGAIN 14; 
 
 long sea voyage, meeting with an efficacious 
 remedy, though rather an awkward one to pre- 
 scribe. 
 
 Gradually the bleak east coast-line of Scotland 
 became visible. At 2 a.m. on the 7th of 
 November we dropped anchor at Dundee, the 
 termination of my first voyage at sea, a trip 
 which had occupied nearly four months. 
 
 In conclusion, I cannot dwell sufficiently on 
 the pleasure, knowledge, experience, and interest 
 derived from this my first sea voyage and my 
 first introduction to arctic regions. It has 
 opened out a new sphere in my life, enlarged 
 my mind, stimulated my enthusiasm for the 
 beauties of nature, — in short, I have reaped from 
 it benefits which will never die. 
 
 With keen appreciation have I committed to 
 memory all the impressions, fresh and vivid, met 
 with during these months of travel. Youth will 
 fade, but these recollections of youthful days I 
 shall, in years to come, always love to recall. 
 
CJiapters X. and XI. are contributed by 
 Captain Joseph Wiggins, and give an account of 
 his journey after parting company with tJie Blen- 
 C AT he a at Golchika, and some remarks on the 
 Nan sen Expedition. 
 
Photograph by E. Davey Lavender. 
 
 Captain Joseph Wiggins. 
 
 Bromley, Kent. 
 
 iage 147 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 I start for Yeneseisk in the Offtzine — Our welcome at Yeneseisk — 
 A thanksgiving-service and banquet — Energetic citizens — Pre- 
 paring for an overland journey — Taking farewell — Our start 
 for home — A Christmas dinner at Tomsk — New Year's Day 
 at Omsk — An extraordinary caravan — Rail at last — A rail- 
 way accident — Cheliabinsk — A conference at St. Petersburg. 
 
 By the 20th of September we were in readiness to 
 proceed up river to Yeneseisk, the Orestes having 
 some thousand or more rails left in her, which 
 were to be taken to Archangel and deposited 
 there, as was requested by the Russian Govern- 
 ment before she left England. 
 
 We had also the great disappointment of 
 having to leave on shore at Golchika some 
 three hundred tons of excellent graphite, which 
 it was impossible to obtain, as there was no 
 remaining barge to bring it alongside. This 
 graphite had been sent down the river by Mr. 
 Chiromnick of Yeneseisk, as well as a large 
 
148 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 quantity of timber for shipment to England. It 
 now remains at Golchika for next year's transit. 
 
 The Minusinsk steamer had already been 
 despatched on her voyage up river, under the 
 command of my brother, laden with wares and 
 with valuable gold-mining machinery, some five 
 days in advance, and bearing telegrams, etc., 
 to report the position of affairs to St. Petersburg 
 and London. 
 
 It was now the turn of the Offtzine, with myself 
 on board, to try her luck with three laden barges 
 and the schooner Scuratoff in tow. At 8 a.m. 
 on September the 21st she parted company with 
 the Blencathra and Orestes, which returned to 
 the Kara Sea, but fresh troubles soon overtook 
 her. A heavy gale from the north-west, accom- 
 panied by thick blinding snowstorms, burst upon 
 her just at the critical time, when she was in 
 a most difficult passage surrounded by shallows. 
 
 The Graff Ignatieff, with the Scuratoff in 
 tow, returned at once, and succeeded in gaining 
 shelter near the previous anchorage. The Offtzine 
 continued, with the Malyguine and Bard, and she 
 
OUR WELCOME AT YENESEISK 149 
 
 succeeded in groping her way up to near Siderova, 
 where she anchored for the night, not knowing 
 how it fared with her two companions, who were 
 astern and out of sight. After a very stormy 
 night the morning broke with fine clear weather, 
 and she proceeded, having now a good channel 
 of five or six fathoms. 
 
 During the afternoon the Offtzine was joined 
 by her companions, the Malyguine and Bard, and 
 good progress was made. The following day saw 
 us past Karaoul, and next day we stopped at 
 Luko Protock to take in wood-fuel. 
 
 The Graff Ignatieff soon came up, and once 
 more the flotilla was complete, and after wooding 
 up, proceeded on the voyage. Strong currents 
 and head-winds prevailing caused the lighters in 
 tow to be a serious hindrance to our progress. 
 However, without any further mishap worthy of 
 notice, we arrived at last, on October 23rd, at the 
 city of Yeneseisk, amidst a blinding snowstorm 
 which cleared off shortly after our dropping anchor. 
 A sensational welcome awaited us. Thousands 
 of people lined the shore and rent the air with 
 
150 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 their hearty cheers, which were answered by the 
 tars on board our flotilla, and signal guns were 
 also fired. In a short time a large steamer, the 
 Russia, owned by Mr. Guadaloff of Krasnoiarsk, 
 left the wharf laden with hundreds of passengers. 
 Sheering along the Offtzine, she made fast ; a 
 gangway plank was speedily slid on board, and 
 Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy was invited to meet the 
 Governor, the Mayor, and the Ispravnick, who with 
 others awaited him on the main deck. A letter 
 of welcome was read and presented to him by the 
 Mayor, as well as a large iced cake surmounted 
 by a silver salt-cellar. The national custom of 
 partaking of salt having been complied with, all 
 ceremony vanished. Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy 
 returned, escorting the Mayor, Ispravnick, and 
 Bishop, who at once descended to the small 
 cabin, and others followed, until it was packed 
 to excess. Meanwhile the decks were crowded 
 with people, — the principal merchants and ladies of 
 the city, who surrounded the other officers and me. 
 Hand-shaking and congratulations were the 
 order of the day, cheer after cheer arose from 
 
A THANKSGIVING-SERVICE 151 
 
 the vicinity of the little cabin as toast after toast 
 was quaffed, each cheer being answered to the 
 echo by hundreds of voices from the Russia. 
 
 This lasted for some twenty minutes, until the 
 functionaries all returned to the Russia s roomy 
 promenade deck. 
 
 Casting loose, this splendid steamer started off, 
 and again the air rang with plaudits from her 
 crowded decks. 
 
 Another half hour found those on board the 
 expeditionary vessels in a quiescent state, at 
 leisure to realise the fact that now our long toil up 
 river had ended, and that the first Russian fleet 
 flying the Imperial flag had safely anchored in 
 view of Siberian citizens. The yacht Minusinsk 
 was noticed at the quay with her blue ensign 
 flying, having arrived four days in advance, her 
 cargo being all discharged. 
 
 And now the welcome on the shore was to 
 commence. The following day a thanksgiving- 
 service was held in the Cathedral, which is 
 situated close to the shore, abreast of where the 
 vessels lay at anchor. At 10 a.m. Lieutenant 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Dobrotvorscy, with the officers and crews of his 
 three ships, attended the solemn service, and the 
 grand building was quickly filled to the porch by 
 citizens of all classes, the young students of the 
 girls' college being noticeable amongst them. 
 
 In the evening a grand banquet was prepared 
 at the spacious club. All the principal officials 
 of the city, including the Mayor, Ispravnick, and 
 Bishop, as well as merchants, attended to do 
 honour to their countrymen, who had braved the 
 dangers of the icy seas in order to inaugurate a new 
 era for their port. Congratulatory addresses 
 were again read and presented to Lieutenant 
 Dobrotvorscy. Toasts were drunk in honour 
 of the Czar and of the promoters of the most 
 important undertaking ever projected in Siberia ; 
 and the Englishmen present were welcomed as 
 brothers in the work now begun. I also came 
 in for my share of the honours. On the naval 
 men returning to the vessels in the small hours, 
 a new surprise awaited them on the beach in the 
 form of illuminations a la Sibirienne. Blue and 
 red lights blazed forth from the high promenade 
 
PROGRESSIVE CITIZENS 153 
 
 overlooking the shore, and on the landing-place 
 an excellent band discoursed lively music until 
 the departure of Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy and 
 his officers in a steam-launch for their respective 
 vessels. 
 
 A few days afterwards a grand ball was given 
 at Mr. Chiromnick's handsome residence. All 
 the officers attended, and a most enjoyable time 
 was spent, the dancing not coming to a stop 
 until far into the morning hours. 
 
 The Graff Ignatieff started up the river at 
 once to Krasnoiarsk with some barges laden 
 with rails ; and Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy in the 
 Malyguine, with the commanders of the Bard and 
 Scuratoff and myself, took a run up and down 
 river for many miles, to inspect small creeks suit- 
 able for laying-up places. 
 
 Several were found, and it was decided to lay 
 up the Russian vessels at Cawarova, some ten 
 miles below the town. The Mayor and citizens 
 protested, however, against this, and offered to 
 raise by subscription money sufficient to cut a 
 canal into the small creek which intersects the 
 
154 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 city. The necessary amount was soon subscribed, 
 and leave having been obtained by Lieutenant 
 Dobrotvorscy from his Government to allow his 
 vessels to remain there, it was decided to cut 
 the channel at once, and men were set to work. 
 
 Meanwhile the ships were anchored close to 
 the shore, where they will quietly freeze in for 
 the winter, and in spring they will be moved into 
 this canal or cutting, when it is flooded by the 
 spring waters on the passing away of the large 
 ice. Yeneseisk will thus be in possession of a 
 good wet dock or port, which can be extended as 
 may be needed in future years. 
 
 This speaks well for the goodwill and energy 
 of the citizens, who must be prepared to en- 
 counter rivalry on the part of their neighbours at 
 Krasnoiarsk, where the first rails which are 
 destined to occupy a prominent place in history 
 have been landed. It may be depended on, that 
 the inhabitants of Krasnoiarsk will not rest 
 contented merely by the Trans-Siberian railway 
 passing through their city, but doubtless they 
 will do their utmost to construct docks and other 
 
A WARM SEASON 155 
 
 works, so as to tempt the sea-going steamers to 
 winter there. The only impediments to Kras- 
 noiarsk becoming a maritime port are the shallow 
 channels and rapids which are met with on the 
 way higher up river, necessitating the use of fast 
 vessels drawing 5 feet or 6 feet, but those of 10 
 feet draught can reach this city. 
 
 At the end of October no ice had yet formed 
 on the river, almost an unprecedented event, and 
 indeed there were few signs of stern winter's 
 approach, the weather being warm and open. 
 This was probably caused by the hot atmo- 
 spheric wave which passed over Europe gener- 
 ally, causing cases of sunstroke even in London. 
 
 The Minusinsk was laid up on the beach close 
 to the entrance to the small creek, where she is 
 in readiness to be hauled into the channel now 
 being cut, as soon as the river rises in the 
 spring of next year. 
 
 I rented a house, in which my crew have been 
 comfortably located for the winter; and it was 
 my intention to journey overland to Irkutsk 
 and St. Petersburg on my way to London as 
 
156 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 soon as the roads were in a condition to admit of 
 sleighing. At that time they were in a sad state 
 of mud, which is a serious hindrance to travelling. 
 
 It has been already stated that the Govern- 
 ment intends to despatch 1,000,000 poods (about 
 19,000 tons) of rails next summer, which means 
 large business ; and I may add that it is gratify- 
 ing to know that Lieutenant Dobrotvorscy, the 
 commander of the Russian Government expedi- 
 tion, has been promoted to the rank of Captain 
 in the Imperial Navy, as he richly deserves this 
 distinction for his unwearied exertions during this 
 memorable voyage. 
 
 After a pleasant stay at Yeneseisk of two 
 months or more, we prepared for our journey 
 home overland, our party consisting of two 
 engineers, two sailors, one cook, myself and 
 my secretary. Three very strong (covered-in) 
 sledges — with a hood on the after part — were 
 purchased, and well strengthened and fitted with 
 strong massive " out-riggers " or runners ; our 
 engineers had these and extra strengthenings, 
 cross-bearers, etc., well bolted with strong iron 
 
PREPARA TIONS 157 
 
 stays from the upper body of the sledge. All the 
 inside was lined out with thick hair-felt, strong 
 mat-and-canvas aprons, fitted to pull up from the 
 front of the sledge, and also pieces of canvas 
 which drew up over the side to prevent snow 
 entering whilst running at high speed, or when 
 forcing our way through snow-drifts. 
 
 Added to this, our sailors were employed for 
 several days making huge fur bags, — out of rein- 
 deer skins, — each bag large enough for all the 
 occupants of each sledge to sleep in : No. 1 
 sledge, "Black Bess," containing myself and 
 Secretary Byford ; No. 2 sledge, containing two 
 engineers ; No. 3 sledge, with three occupants, 
 two sailors and the cook. 
 
 The 19th of December saw us all in readiness 
 for a start — noon the following day being the 
 appointed time. During the whole of this day our 
 farewell visitors swarmed in upon us to "chai- 
 peet " (take tea and cake) and speak adieus, etc. 
 This lasted far into the night, the midnight 
 hour having passed before our last kind visitors 
 had said their farewells, when sundry finishing 
 
158 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 touches, etc., had to be made to our heavy- 
 packings. 
 
 At 9 a.m. the following morning the three 
 sledges were drawn up to the back door in our 
 spacious court-yard, and sledge-packing began in 
 earnest, though little did our crew know about 
 it. However, with plenty of sweet hay, our 
 sundry sailor bags, portmanteaus, etc., were duly 
 stowed away ; a goodly stock of new loaves of 
 bread, tins of preserved meats, soups, sugar, tea, 
 coffee shared off to each sledge ; then the large 
 fur sleeping - bags laid over all, large feather 
 pillows at the back, and all looked as comfortable 
 and inviting to the z//z-wearied traveller as a large 
 old-fashioned four-poster bed. 
 
 At noon precisely, three sets of hardy Siberian 
 horses (nine in all) entered the yard. Soon they 
 were yoked, and hasty farewells said to all our 
 crew who were remaining behind, and rapid hand- 
 shakes interchanged with several other visitors 
 who again called to see us off, our old landlord 
 getting the last shake as we past him standing at 
 the open gates. 
 
OUR START 159 
 
 Out and on to the high road we dashed — our 
 snorting fiery steeds having it all their own way. 
 On through the wide main street of the city we 
 sped, our cheery sledge-bells loudly announcing 
 the (to us) important fact that another start had 
 been made for an overland journey to " Home, 
 sweet Home." 
 
 Turning to the left and passing the Town 
 Hall, we soon came on to the old Archinsk road 
 — a shorter way to Tomsk than the newer and 
 more frequented route by Krasnoiarsk. In a 
 little while our "yemshiks" (drivers) drew rein 
 to allow our followers to come up with us, and 
 then we found that several friends, including our 
 chief mate, Mr. Milne, and others of our crew 
 had accompanied us thus far for the purpose 
 of having a last farewell ; this being over, off 
 we bounded on our course, while they returned 
 home. We three " troikers," with urging and 
 whooping yemshiks and willing steeds, settled 
 down steadily to the work before us. 
 
 The weather being delightfully fine and sunny, 
 we enjoyed a lovely clear afternoon, but as the 
 
i6o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 " shades of evening closed around us " King 
 Frost asserted his rights and made himself keenly- 
 felt. We were not in possession of thermometers, 
 but at a safe guess it must have registered 40° 
 below zero of Fahr., nevertheless, being well 
 wrapt in furs, riding was most enjoyable, and 
 before we well knew where we were, our sledge 
 dashed into the open gateway of the " star- 
 roster's " x courtyard at the first station from 
 Yeneseisk — now some twenty miles away. 
 
 We did not remain here to "chai-peet," but 
 having paid off drivers, fresh horses were quickly 
 "put-to," and off we went again with the same 
 invigorating whoops and yells of our fresh drivers, 
 each " troiker" vieing with the other as to which 
 should take precedence. This stimulating and 
 praiseworthy effort on their part, though very 
 enjoyable to witness, is nevertheless occasionally 
 attended with danger — more especially to the 
 charming little horses, who are very liable to 
 plunge their feet into the open space of the out- 
 rigger and the runner of the sledge which it is 
 
 1 The head man of a village. 
 
RACING 161 
 
 passing. This did actually occur ononeof my former 
 journeys, and I then made up my mind for no 
 more "side by side" racing. Therefore, on this 
 present occasion, we peremptorily commanded our 
 driver to give way and to allow the sledge to drop 
 astern ; and this rule was never swerved from 
 during the whole of our journey. Though often 
 attempts were made to infringe it, we at once 
 compelled our driver to desist from them ; though 
 when, as sailors would say, all were " end on " to 
 each other, at a safe distance, we cheerfully per- 
 mitted the anxious driver to head his rival by 
 urging his horses to their best speed, but 
 under no other circumstances could it be allowed. 
 At the second station we had the customary 
 refreshment of " chai-peet," with boiled fresh eggs 
 and delicious cream, for which we paid twenty 
 kopeks, 6d. On we sped, night and day, from 
 village to village, passing through the busy town 
 of Archinsk the second day, and arriving at Tomsk 
 city by midnight on the 24th December. There we 
 were very glad to turn in to the best hotel of this 
 large and busy city, in order to thaw ourselves, 
 
 M 
 
1 62 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 for the cold was so intense that everything in our 
 sledges, fur sleeping-bags included, were frozen 
 solid. Two spacious rooms with large heating 
 stoves were allotted to our private use, and, once 
 in an atmosphere of some 70° plus Fahr., we soon 
 discussed a hasty cup of refreshing tea, and 
 stretched our weary limbs on good spring mat- 
 tresses to thaw. At such a time as this, one of 
 the most trying punishments for the traveller is 
 to unpack his sledge, everything having to be 
 brought indoors to be thawed. The only trial to 
 be in any way compared to it is the re-packing the 
 sledge again : this, when done in the more genial 
 warmth of daytime, is quite painful enough, but 
 when during the cold midnight hours, loading or 
 more especially unloading, after a bitter cold ride 
 of several days, the work is torture indeed. 
 
 At Tomsk we stayed and had our Christmas 
 Day. It not being the time for the Russian 
 festival — theirs being twelve days later — we were 
 in comparative quietness. We had a good hearty 
 dinner of four or five courses a la Siberienne, 
 and cakes, etc., with coffee, afterwards. A good 
 
CHRISTMAS DAY 163 
 
 substantial supper followed, and by midnight one 
 and all declared themselves once more well thawed 
 and quite equal to, and eager for, the road. 
 Horses were again ordered, sledges packed, and 
 hearty toast after toast drunk to the health and 
 well-being of " old and young folks at home " from 
 the " cup that cheers but not inebriates." Having 
 paid due homage to our steaming " samovar," and 
 settled all scores with our accommodating host, 
 we again tumble into our fur bags, and by the 
 silvery light of a full moon we wend our silent 
 way through the wide streets of this large city. 
 Arriving at the boundary-gate our bells are once 
 more loosened, 1 and again we bound along over 
 the snow-white road at a rattling pace, everything 
 literally sparkling with light and sledge -bells 
 ringing forth their merry peals, all tending to 
 inspire the traveller with feelings of joy and 
 peace. 
 
 New Year's Day found us arrived in safety at 
 the busy city of Omsk, where we once more had 
 
 1 All bells are forbidden to be loose whilst passing through large 
 towns. 
 
1 64 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 to go through the thawing process — this time 
 it required three days to accomplish. We had 
 three large rooms allotted to us at the Hotel 
 Moscow, and after seeing the New Year well 
 in we again took the road, to find the cold keener 
 than ever. For my own part, although I have 
 travelled overland six times, yet I never ex- 
 perienced such piercing cold. Had we neglected 
 supplying ourselves with fur bags, we should 
 certainly not have been able to bear it. As it 
 was, my face, for the first time in all my many 
 thousands of miles of sledging, was "frost-bitten/' 
 However, we kept pegging away ; our crew, 
 unused to such refrigerating experiences, sturdily 
 made up their minds not to be beaten, with the result 
 that Wednesday the 4th January saw us in a semi- 
 frozen state entering the busy town of Kurgan. 
 
 The morning was bright and sunny, with intense 
 cold, when to our utter amazement we suddenly 
 overtook the most extraordinary caravan or rather 
 cavalcade that it has ever been our lot to see, — a 
 number of huge camels, some thirty or more, each 
 animal drawing a large sledge laden with heavy 
 
A CURIOUS CAVALCADE 165 
 
 machinery. An immense sack of thick hair- felt 
 enveloped each beast from stem to stern, coming 
 down from the top of its unsightly hump to the 
 lower part of its body or middle of its lanky legs. 
 To see such animals, denizens of warm climates, 
 quietly stalking along, their bare soft feet all ex- 
 posed to the sharp and cutting ice of the hard roads, 
 icicles pendant from their highly elevated nostrils, 
 was curious indeed. Each camel was attended by 
 its quiet and quaint-looking Tartar or Mongolian 
 leader, walking demurely by the side of the out- 
 landish-looking animal, making a picture of never- 
 to-be-forgotten patience and endurance. Surely no 
 hot sands of the desert can ever produce the pain 
 and suffering which these patient creatures were 
 now called upon to endure ; yet they seemed 
 to do, indeed were doing, their work as quietly and 
 unconcerned as though in their own warmer 
 climate of the southern steppes, having probably 
 drawn those heavily-laden sledges many hundreds 
 of miles. It was hard to decide which was most 
 deserving of wonder and praise — the patient and 
 weird-looking Mongolian leader or the ungainly 
 
166 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 brute that he led. It was decidedly the most 
 unique exhibition it has ever been my lot to see. 
 
 By noon we had crossed the first section of 
 the overland route of railway that has as yet 
 reached these far limits of Russia. We had 
 been told at Omsk that the railway was made 
 as far as Kurgan, but we found it was finished 
 some twenty miles farther, and well finished too. 
 Soon we entered the town and located ourselves 
 at the Post-House, hoping to leave by rail dur- 
 ing the same evening, and thus to bid fare- 
 well to all our sufferings by cold and sledge- 
 bumping. We disposed of our three strong 
 sledges for a moiety of what they had cost us, 
 and then took a town single sledge to our 
 railway station, situated some two miles outside 
 the town. Here we found none of the clerks 
 or ordinary officials able to converse in English, 
 or indeed able to give us the least information, 
 but at last they advised us to call upon the 
 manager and chief constructor, a Mr. Stuckin- 
 bergh. 
 
 Arrived at his domicile we were ushered into 
 
A FRIEND IN NEED 167 
 
 his presence, to find him as reticent as his 
 officials, but on our explaining to him that we 
 were Britishers he hastily requested me to 
 follow him into his spacious drawing - room, 
 informing me as he led the way that Madam S. 
 " Gabareet pa roosky e po anglesky." Soon 
 this assurance was verified by the appearance 
 of a charming lady, who accosted me fluently 
 in my mother tongue. The genial manager 
 informed me through this medium that, there 
 being no passenger carriages, we should have 
 to await the arrival of one from Cheliabinsk, the 
 only place that such carriages were allowed to 
 run to. This would require at least two days. 
 Meanwhile, should we not be able to secure one 
 by this means, he was prepared to give us his 
 own private house -carriage or waggon that he 
 used when on his journeys along the lines. 
 Having spent a pleasant hour or more, we 
 retired to the Post- House, partook of a hearty 
 meal, and turned in for the night. 
 
 The next day, no carriage having been for- 
 warded from Cheliabinsk, we were informed by 
 
1 68 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 the kind and gracious railway manager that it 
 was his intention to send us forward with his 
 own carriage, which would be attached to the train 
 leaving at 10 p.m. Meanwhile he placed an 
 empty lock-up covered-in waggon at our disposal 
 for transmitting our heavy luggage. At the time 
 appointed we started under the most comfort- 
 able circumstances on our free unpaid journey 
 to Cheliabinsk ; there were not only soft beds 
 but even a good "samovar" and cooking stove. 
 With these improved conditions we sped along 
 at a safe pace of some thirty miles per hour, 
 which speed is seldom increased. Nevertheless 
 it does not ensure from severe accidents occa- 
 sionally happening. About 4 a.m. the following 
 morning we were aware that, for some unex- 
 plained reason, our train was at a stand-still, 
 and this continued up to 8 a.m. We heard 
 sundry whistlings and shunting to and fro of 
 our engine. At last we descried it passing our 
 train with a smashed-up locomotive in tow ; then 
 we realised that an accident had occurred. On 
 inquiry we found it had nothing to do with 
 
AN ACCIDENT 169 
 
 the fortunes of our train, further than a lengthy 
 detention of many hours ere the line could be 
 cleared was involved, but that two ballast trains had 
 collided going in opposite directions, smashing both 
 engines and several waggons, and some men, includ- 
 ing engineers and stokers, being severely injured. 
 This was confirmed by three poor fellows being 
 transferred to the comforts of our special carriage. 
 We afterwards learnt that this accident was 
 entirely owing to the effects of the festive season ; 
 we were assured that as a rule few or no 
 accidents occur. 
 
 The next day we arrived safely at Cheliabinsk, 
 where we found a large and handsome station, 
 built of granite, and all the other large out- 
 buildings, such as railway engine sheds, maga- 
 zines, store-houses, also built in a massive manner 
 of the same material ; a spacious restaurant 
 adorned the handsome hall of the station ; every- 
 thing, indeed, was in a highly finished condition. 
 Many trains of passengers and goods were await- 
 ing departure — excellent carriages, all well heated 
 with stoves, and even the third class replete 
 
i 7 o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 with all necessary conveniences for long journeys, 
 and exceedingly comfortable. 
 
 Here we booked to Toula, thence to Libau 
 and the historical city of Smolensk. At Libau 
 I succeeded in obtaining a passage for my sailors 
 direct to London in a steamer belonging to 
 Copenhagen. 
 
 Having despatched my men, I took train at 
 once for St. Petersburg, where I found Mr. 
 Popham awaiting me at the Hotel d'Angleterre. 
 During our stay of a few weeks we had the 
 honour of interviewing the Minister of Finance, 
 Minister of Marine, Minister of Ways of Com- 
 munication, and others, also the Committee for the 
 Construction of the Siberian Railway, with whom 
 we had several earnest consultations in meetings 
 assembled to organise the work for the sea-route. 
 All this resulted in a decision not to prosecute 
 the work by the sea-route for at least a while, 
 the Railway Committee being under the im- 
 pression that it would prove more costly than 
 completing only the overland route. However, 
 this important project has not yet been finally 
 
SEA AND LAND 171 
 
 abandoned. Further discussions are to take place 
 on the arrival of Captain Dobrotvorscy from 
 Yeneseisk, when it is to be hoped that he, 
 together with the Minister of Marine (who is 
 most anxious to develop the over-sea trade), will 
 be able to convince the Board not merely of 
 the feasibility of this sea- route, but also the 
 great importance it will have in the future success 
 and rapid development of this " Land of Goshen." 
 By working in conjunction with the mighty 
 Trans-Siberian system of railway, it would relieve 
 it of the enormous amount of heavy transit, such 
 as raw produce from Siberia, and cumbersome 
 manufactures, machinery, etc., from Europe — 
 articles that will finally prove too bulky and 
 plentiful for the railway to carry at a profit. 
 And it does not require a prophet to foresee 
 the fact that without such a free outlet for her 
 produce as "this northern sea-route," it will be 
 of small use for the Russian Government to 
 establish such excellent means of internal com- 
 munication as this splendid railway, to pour into 
 central and eastern Siberia large numbers of 
 
i 7 2 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 colonists, as it is their intention to do, merely to 
 raise up that land by agriculture, mining, etc., 
 without taking advantage of the sea-route that 
 is now open to them. 
 
 Grand as the results of the " Trans-Siberian 
 Railway " will most assuredly be, yet it must 
 be borne in mind that it can never transmit and 
 relieve the country of one third or fourth the 
 produce that can and will assuredly be the out- 
 come of her augumented inhabitants. 
 
 I append to this brief description of my over- 
 land journey an extract taken from a book on 
 the Industries of Russia, 1 and dealing with 
 Siberia, prepared for the World's Columbian 
 Exposition, which enables one to realise the 
 immensity and great importance of the " Trans- 
 Siberian Railway " when once completed. 
 
 In conclusion, let us hope that — the Russian 
 Government having now proved to their own 
 satisfaction and to the world at large that com- 
 mercial relations can, and therefore ought to, 
 be held with her Siberian territories by aid 
 
 1 See Appendix A. 
 
THE FUTURE 173 
 
 of the sea-route, making use of those noble 
 rivers Yenesei and Obi that would other- 
 wise be idle — we may now see such a grand 
 work vigorously prosecuted and encouraged for 
 this next season and all future time, by the 
 Russian Government issuing orders for the con- 
 veyance by sea of rails and goods of all kinds 
 required for the construction of their great 
 railway, and for the general welfare of " Siberia 
 in Asia." 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 SOME REMARKS ON DR. NANSEN's POLAR 
 EXPEDITION 
 
 It will be borne in mind that this heroic man 
 with his small band of followers — in his arctic- 
 built steamer Fram — reached the port of Khaba- 
 rova or "St. Nicholas," in the Pet Straits, at the 
 entrance to the Kara Sea, in safety about the 
 middle of August last. Here he received on 
 board his sledge-dogs, which had been brought 
 overland from Obdorsk on the Obi by a mes- 
 senger, who happened to be the very same man 
 who served under me in the Labrador during our 
 1888 expedition, and who accompanied young 
 Victor Morier overland to Obdorsk from Khaba- 
 rova. To this young man Nansen delivered 
 letters and despatches, etc., for home, all of which 
 arrived safely to hand during this winter. 
 
HIS DIFFICULTIES 175 
 
 In an effort mentally to follow up the course 
 pursued and trace the likely whereabouts of this 
 gallant leader, it will be as well to commence our 
 imaginary voyage from the scene of this last 
 place, Khabarova, from where positive news has 
 come to hand. 
 
 Nansen must have found the Kara Sea well 
 free of ice, always presuming that he kept his 
 vessel in the spacious open water traversed by 
 our vessels, and never attempting to take the 
 pack-ice, which occupied only the central portion 
 of the Kara Sea. We may therefore take it 
 for granted that the Fram has succeeded in 
 arriving safely in the vicinity of the Dickson- 
 Haven group of islands, at the outer or north- 
 west extremity of the entrance to the Gulf 
 of Yenesei — our farthest point before turning 
 our vessels south to run up that mighty stream. 
 
 It was here that we found the heavy pack-ice 
 rather close on to the land, leading away to the 
 north-west. This mass of pack-ice left so soon 
 as we turned south, but Nansen, some days 
 previous to our arrival, would, on the contrary, 
 
1 76 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 be obliged to close in with this ice and work 
 his way along the north-west coast. How he 
 may have fared is mere conjecture, though I 
 am under the impression that this ice was not 
 tight on to the coast, in which case we must 
 suppose that they would soon be able to reach 
 the northernmost point or headland of Asia, 
 Cape " Chelyuskin," the Ultima Thule or Cape 
 " Tabin " of the Ancients. 
 
 Arriving at this interesting locality, it would 
 then become a serious question to Nansen as 
 to what might be the best course for him to 
 pursue. Should the open water be extensive 
 and lead far north, it would be a severe tempta- 
 tion for him to push direct " Northward - Ho." 
 And in such an event (which I sincerely hope 
 may have occurred) we may have no further 
 news of the gallant ship and her heroic crew 
 until they emerge by way of Greenland, Spits- 
 bergen, or Franz Josef Land, or beat a retreat 
 by way of Novaia Zemlia or the shores of the 
 Asiatic mainland. Should they be driven on to 
 the eastern or northern coast of Franz Josef 
 
BARON TOLL 177 
 
 Land (in a similar manner to the Austrian Ex- 
 pedition ship Tegethoff, under the command of 
 that most excellent and daring man, the late 
 Lieutenant Weyprecht), let us hope that the 
 Jackson party, now preparing to leave our shores 
 for an overland trip to the North Pole by that 
 route, may fall in with and so join, if not succour 
 and rescue, the brave Norwegians. 
 
 Should, however, the pack-ice be in close 
 proximity to the Asiatic shore after passing 
 round Cape Chelyuskin, then Nansen will be 
 obliged to shape his course along the land. In 
 this case we ought in a short time, or at latest 
 during this summer, to hear of them having called 
 in at the depot of the "Olenek" River, where 
 more dogs are now awaiting; their arrival. If it 
 turns out that the Expedition has not touched at 
 the depot, we must presume that circumstances 
 have caused them to proceed northward, or on 
 to the New Siberian Islands, where, on the 
 northernmost island, stores were deposited last 
 year by that unwearied traveller Baron Toll, 
 who was sent out by the Russian Government, 
 
 N 
 
178 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 and lately returned to St. Petersburg direct 
 from that locality. 
 
 I enjoyed several pleasant conversations with 
 the Baron and his lieutenant during their short 
 sojourn at Yeneseisk as he was on his way 
 home in December last, this being the second 
 journey the Baron has made to those desolate 
 and far regions of the north, mostly on foot, 
 accompanied by natives and dog-sledges. 
 
 Should Nansen reach this spot — the New 
 Siberian Islands — we may hear nothing more 
 of them until some one happens to go there 
 for the purpose of ascertaining whether or not 
 the Expedition has called at the Islands. 
 Probably the gallant Baron may contemplate 
 another and third visit to his favourite resort 
 this summer for this purpose. If so, we may 
 possibly have word and receive despatches from 
 Nansen during the ensuing winter. 
 
 But, whether we do or do not hear of those 
 brave men, of this we may be assured, that, 
 providing no accident has occurred to their 
 vessel, they will, during next summer, be hard 
 
DANGERS AND POSSIBILITIES 179 
 
 at work testing the (to them) all-important ques- 
 tion : Is there a road to or round by the North 
 Pole by proceeding north? If they have pushed 
 to the north, either last summer or during this 
 coming season, we may be sure of one thing, 
 that the heroic band will for a certainty ex- 
 perience the serious if not awful risk of being 
 beset in the dread pack-ice, in the same manner 
 as was the Jeannette, of the ill-fated American 
 Expedition, a few years ago. Should this be 
 the case, the probability (amounting to almost a 
 certainty) is that the vessel, strong though she 
 be, will never return by the same route they 
 have pursued, seeing that the oceanic currents 
 are constantly flowing northward and over 
 towards the North Pole, and they will, nolens 
 volenSy take them, and the pack-ice which holds 
 them in its vice-like grasp, onward towards the 
 goal of their brave hearts' desire. The only thing 
 that can happen to prevent their arrival will 
 be new lands ; these will almost certainly arrest 
 their further progress, and probably land their 
 vessel, and the ice on which she may possibly 
 
i8o POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 be cradled, high and dry on shore. As hap- 
 pened with the Austrians, in this case it will 
 become imperative to abandon the Fram, and 
 the crew will make their escape by retreating, 
 homewards or onwards by the Pole or its vicinity. 
 In such an extremity I feel sure that the watch- 
 word of that heroic leader and his brave band 
 will be Excelsior ! 
 
 This being so, let us hope on that we shall 
 actually hear of their safe arrival, after many 
 hardships and dangers, at the shores of North 
 Greenland, where, in such a happy event, they 
 may meet with the interesting American Expedi- 
 tion, now prosecuting researches in those unknown 
 quarters, under the leadership of Lieutenant 
 Peary. What a delightful episode and glorious 
 conclusion this would prove ! 
 
 Finally, should the little vessel succumb to 
 the severe pressure and rough handling of the 
 pack-ice in the Siberian seas, then we ought to 
 hear of Nansen's arrival by way of the Asiatic 
 or Siberian coast, provided he can but succeed 
 in making good a safe landing, as we have 
 
THE FUTURE 
 
 been assured that the many natives who con- 
 stantly roam those shores have been warned to 
 assist and report any Europeans or civilised men 
 happening to need their assistance ; indeed, the 
 Russian Government seem to have left nothing 
 undone in order to assist these heroes, whether 
 they be in trouble or not. For our part, though 
 the chances may seem remote, we live in hopes 
 of again hearing of that gallant crew. And 
 should it so happen that years roll by and no 
 news come from that silent land of the eternal 
 frost-king, we may hope to see, not merely one, 
 but many a search party or expedition going 
 forth with the determination to do daring deeds 
 for the rescue of those who have so nobly done 
 their duty to their country and the world at 
 large. I feel sure there are many brave men 
 who will gladly volunteer to undertake such a 
 noble and sacred work, and it will only need 
 the response of those who have the means, to 
 enable those who have the heart to search for 
 the lost ones far away. But I hope that this 
 may not be found necessary, and trust that, 
 
1 82 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 before many years are past we may hear of 
 Nansen's safe arrival home, whether via the 
 North Pole or not. 
 
 Of one thing the gallant expedition may be 
 very sure, they have the world's good wishes for 
 their entire success. 
 
 
A Letter from Frederick G. Jackson on his pro- 
 posed Polar Expedition. 
 
Photograph by Maull and Fox. 187a Piccadilly, London. 
 
 Frederick G. Jackson. 
 
 To face page 185. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 A LETTER FROM FREDERICK G. JACKSON ON HIS 
 PROPOSED POLAR EXPEDITION 
 
 \$th March 1894. 
 
 Dear Miss Peel — It is with much pleasure that 
 I comply with your request to give you an out- 
 line of the plans which I hope to carry out on my 
 Franz Josef Land Expedition this summer, more 
 especially as you have so identified yourself with 
 matters Polar in being one of the only two ladies 
 who have ever traversed the icy waters of the 
 Kara Sea in the recent Yenesei Expedition, with 
 which Expedition I had the privilege of going as 
 far as the Yugor Straits. 
 
 It would, perhaps, be better to begin by stating 
 my reasons for entering on this Expedition. 
 
 First of all, I am extremely desirous of seeing 
 the British once more taking that foremost place 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 in arctic discovery which in past times they so 
 easily held, and I felt that the absence of our 
 countrymen in the present striving for the Pole 
 is most certainly not in accordance with the 
 past. 
 
 My second reason lies in the fact that I have 
 been able to choose a route which, in my opinion 
 and in that of our leading arctic authorities, is 
 the one which holds out the greatest probability 
 of reaching a high latitude. In Franz Josef 
 Land, as far as one knows, and can gather, there 
 exists a practicable avenue as far north as the 
 highest latitude yet attained, and holding out 
 the probability of leading even farther north. 
 
 My plans, as far as I have made them at the 
 present date, are briefly as follows : Embarking 
 in a strong vessel suitable for the arctic regions, 
 and having steam power, we sail from the 
 Thames towards the end of July next, and shall 
 probably touch at Archangel and Khabarova 
 in order to pick up, at the former place, a few 
 stores and ponies, and at the latter my dogs 
 and probably a few Samoyedes. We then push 
 
MY PLANS 187 
 
 north on about the 50th east meridian, the lay 
 of the ice of course deciding. 
 
 Hoping to safely negotiate the eighty — more 
 or less — miles of ice south of Franz Josef Land, 
 we shall reach the shores of that country, we 
 trust, early in September, and after securing the 
 ship in a safe harbour, we shall immediately land 
 all our stores and provisions, and build a strong 
 house in which we shall pass the first winter, 
 and in building which we shall be helped by the 
 ship's crew. When this has been done and 
 things made snug, the ship will make her de- 
 parture, and I trust reach England safely in 
 October. 
 
 When the ship has sailed, our party will con- 
 sist of about nine persons (if I take Samoyedes). 
 We shall prepare for the rapidly on - coming 
 winter, and shall stock our larder with every- 
 thing we can shoot. Our time for doing this 
 with the comfort which the presence of the 
 sun will add, will be short, for towards the end 
 of October we shall lose the sun. 
 
 My great object during the winter, I need 
 
1 88 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 hardly say, will be to keep up the spirits of the 
 party, and we shall do this by indulging in all 
 active exercises possible under the circumstances. 
 
 In the following spring, on the return of the 
 sun, we shall push north, making depots of food 
 every thirty or forty miles, our route being up 
 Austria Sound (aided in drawing our sledges by 
 our dogs and Russian ponies), at all events as 
 far as Cape Higely. 
 
 Past that point our route is shrouded in a 
 certain amount of uncertainty, but our next 
 objective will be Petermannland, which Payer 
 has distinctly stated to extend north of Aa, 
 83 N.L. 
 
 I am in great hopes that Petermannland may 
 extend directly north and for a considerable 
 distance. Should this not be the case, and 
 oceanic ice lie in our path, our task in pushing 
 north will be one of great difficulty, as it goes 
 without saying that depots cannot be established 
 upon sea - ice, which will almost certainly be 
 hummocky and in motion. 
 
 Although we are few in number we shall 
 
OUR EQUIPMENT 
 
 have among us men of scientific training and 
 experience, so that we may bring back a com- 
 plete series of observations and collections, and 
 contribute, I hope, something of interest to 
 physical and natural science. 
 
 It is difficult to say much at this rather early 
 stage about the exact nature of the equipment, 
 but I have made up my mind to model my fur 
 clothing on that of the Samoyede people, the 
 shape and character of which are, in my opinion, 
 most suitable. The sledges will be of the one- 
 man type (Norwegian pattern), but with certain 
 additions and alterations suggested to me by my 
 experiences during my last expedition. On our 
 northward march we shall also take boats of a 
 special type and make. 
 
 Of course we shall have with us tinned foods 
 of considerable variety, but as long as we can get 
 fresh meat we shall not use these much. The 
 object will be to reduce the impedimenta as 
 much as possible, and to carry with us only the 
 actual necessaries for existence and for scientific 
 work. We may be two years away, or we may 
 
igo POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 be four, but whether the time be short or long, I 
 hope the results of the Expedition will be such 
 as to reflect credit not only upon those who have 
 taken part in it but upon the country for whose 
 fame they make the effort. — Yours sincerely, 
 
 Frederick G. Jackson. 
 
APPENDICES 
 
APPENDIX A (seep. 172) 
 
 THE GREAT SIBERIAN RAILWAY 
 
 The wide expanse and sparse population of 
 Siberia, combined with historical destiny, have 
 prevented its being enriched with regular over- 
 land means of communication, which could only- 
 have been accomplished at the expense of a vast 
 amount of labour and capital. Nature has, on 
 the other hand, richly endowed this country 
 with water communication, washed on the north 
 and east by the waters of the Arctic and Pacific 
 Oceans. It is at the same time intersected for 
 thousands of versts by large rivers connecting 
 these oceans with western China, and in general 
 with central Asia. Thanks to these rivers, 
 whose basins cover several million square versts, 
 in summer time it is possible to communicate 
 
 with far distant regions. This was the route 
 
 o 
 
i 9 4 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 taken by the conquerors of Siberia and the 
 settlers who followed them, coming from the 
 west, but of late years communication has been 
 kept up with Siberia by sea from the north and 
 from the east. Unfortunately the insufficiency of 
 the coast development on the one hand, and the 
 severe climate of the arctic zone on the other 
 hand, prevent the sea navigation from reaching 
 that degree of development which would be 
 possible under more favourable conditions. This 
 same severity of climate, and the prolonged 
 period during which the rivers are in conse- 
 quence frozen, considerably hinders navigation 
 on the principal Siberian rivers which fall into 
 the Arctic Ocean. The most important rivers 
 of Siberia, the Obi, Yenesei, and Lena, flow 
 from south to north, and are for the greater 
 part of their course navigable. Only one river, 
 the Amour, flows to the east, and, at the junction 
 with the Sungara, turns northwards and falls into 
 the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 The establishment of steam communication 
 with the Far East, undertaken in 1870 by the 
 
THE SIBERIAN RAILWAY 195 
 
 Russian Steam Navigation and Trade Company, 
 did not possess any serious commercial import- 
 ance. This undertaking also assumed large 
 dimensions only from the moment when the 
 Volunteer Fleet established regular communica- 
 tion between Odessa and Vladivostok, calling at 
 several Chinese ports on the way. This insti- 
 tution, called into existence in 1878 during the 
 last eastern war, with the object of performing 
 the duty of cruisers in war time and having 
 commercial objects in time of peace, certainly 
 gave a great impulse to the connecting of Euro- 
 pean Russia with the Far East, and strengthen- 
 ing the influence of Russia in the waters of the 
 Pacific Ocean. The Volunteer Fleet, whose 
 ships are completely adapted to long ocean 
 voyages, is every year increasing its activity in 
 the conveyance of passengers and goods from the 
 ports of the Black Sea to Vladivostok, barely 
 satisfying the demands made upon it. Thanks 
 to its activity, eastern Siberia now receives a 
 mass of necessary articles from European 
 Russia and not from abroad, and European 
 
196 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Russia gets Chinese tea much cheaper than by 
 land. 
 
 In the way of land communication but one 
 road passes through Siberia at all deserving 
 attention, this being the so-called Great Siberian 
 Tract, joining Moscow with Irkutsk, or more 
 exactly with Kiakhta. Within the actual limits 
 of Siberia it commences at Tiumen and passes 
 through Yalutorovsk, Ishim, Tiukalinsk, Kainsk, 
 Kolyvan, Tomsk, Marinsk, Achinsk, Krasnoi- 
 arsk, Nizhneoudinsk. In this direction also 
 took place the principal colonisation of Siberia. 
 Hence one road goes to Kiakhta and continues 
 farther into the Celestial Empire, while another 
 goes to Baikal, upon which in summer there is 
 steam communication, and in winter by sledge. 
 There is also a road round Baikal passing 
 through an extremely irregular country. Further 
 on, the post road from Verkneoudinsk to Stretensk 
 traverses very difficult places, where sometimes 
 no snow whatever falls, in consequence of which, 
 in winter, the driver is not seldom obliged here 
 to carry his sledge on a cart, or, on the other 
 
THE SIBERIAN RAIL WAY 197 
 
 hand, to put the cart on runners. The thinness 
 of the population in the country along this road, 
 inhabited mainly by vagrants, makes the convey- 
 ance of freights extremely difficult and expensive. 
 From this point to Khabarovka the road follows 
 the Amour, but few make use of it. In summer 
 people prefer to take advantage of the water 
 communication. In winter they travel in sledges 
 over the ice, and only the break up of the ice or 
 some other hard necessity forces them to turn to 
 the natural earth road. The further communica- 
 tion with the terminal points of Siberia, Niko- 
 laevsk, and Vladivostok, is carried on in summer 
 by water and in winter on the ice. In autumn 
 and spring almost all communication is stopped 
 here. 
 
 After the annexation of the extensive Amour 
 and littoral territories and of the Ussuri region, 
 the want was felt of good ways of communication, 
 on the one hand, in order to keep possession of 
 them, and, on the other, in order to attract 
 settlers and form new centres of population. 
 In consequence of this a series of schemes 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 appeared for the construction of new roads in 
 Siberia, and Count Mouraviev-Amourski himself 
 was almost the first who conceived the idea of a 
 railway in this country. Finally, by an Imperial 
 rescript given the 17th of March 1891, in the 
 name of His Imperial Highness the Tsarevitch, 
 the question of the construction of the Great 
 Siberian Railway was finally and irrevocably 
 decided in the affirmative. The gracious will 
 of His Majesty the Emperor clearly expressed in 
 this rescript put an end to many years of hesita- 
 tion and doubt as to the accomplishment of the 
 said great undertaking, and now the Government 
 has taken all the necessary measures for the most 
 successful realisation possible of this good con- 
 ception, which has a perfect right to take one of 
 the first places among the most extensive and 
 important enterprises of the expiring century, not 
 only in this country but in the whole world. 
 
 The total length of the Siberian Railway, from 
 Cheliabinsk to Vladivostok along the main line is 
 7063 versts, and 71 12 versts including branch 
 lines to the principal rivers intersecting the main 
 
THE SIBERIA N RAILWAY 1 99 
 
 road. The whole line across Siberia will, there- 
 fore, be terminated in twelve years, counting from 
 1893. The Great Siberian Railway lies in the 
 mean geographical latitudes, and, as regards 
 climate and soil, possesses all the qualities favour- 
 able to the development of agriculture, rural 
 economy, and the industries connected with them. 
 It is worthy of attention also that, according to 
 the propitious choice of the direction of the 
 Great Siberian Railroad, which connects the 
 fertile lands of western Siberia and the distant 
 region of Ussuri, it also embraces the richest 
 deposits of the noble metals. It cannot be dis- 
 puted that the line, when once laid, will give a 
 powerful impetus to the whole economical de- 
 velopment of the country, and will call into 
 existence many new branches of industrial 
 activity. 
 
 Turning to the more intimate influence of the 
 Great Railroad upon the various features of 
 industrial and economic life in Siberia, it is 
 evident that the chosen route traverses the rich 
 Ishimsk, Barabinsk, and Kulundinsk steppes, 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 which have always been renowned for their 
 fertility, and serve as a granary for Siberia. 
 
 Of late years, in many parts of European 
 Russia, the increase of population from natural 
 causes has brought about an excess of the 
 labouring contingent, and the systematic in- 
 crease of the number of peasants insufficiently 
 provided with land, due to this fact, has already 
 for some time past attracted the attention of the 
 Government. For these reasons free Govern- 
 ment lands in the mentioned localities are granted 
 to settlers, and for their benefit a cheap rate has 
 been fixed for conveying them by rail ; in some 
 cases they receive loans of money from the 
 Government, and certain other privileges are 
 granted to them in order to assist them in the 
 difficulty of emigrating and of acquiring new 
 household goods. Thus the Great Siberian 
 Railway, animating the uninhabited fertile lands, 
 ruled by the Governor - General of the steppes, 
 and opening up an extensive market for the 
 sale of all products of the earth, would at the 
 same time assist the successful solution of one of 
 
THE SIBERIAN RAIL WA Y 201 
 
 the most difficult problems of the State, namely, 
 the definite organisation of the economical condi- 
 tion of the peasants badly provided with land in 
 the internal Governments of European Russia. 
 The mineral wealth and mining industry of 
 Siberia shows how enormous are the riches in 
 the bowels of the country, and what little use has 
 been made of them up to the present time. Iron 
 and coal, the two great factors of industrial de- 
 velopment, are found nearly over all Siberia, and 
 in very rich veins. The Great Siberian Railway 
 will also have a great influence upon gold mining, 
 as well as upon the extension of local trade, 
 which beyond a doubt will be most considerable, 
 many articles or raw materials, for which there is 
 at present no local demand, will find a ready sale 
 at more distant markets. 
 
 In order to grasp the whole extent of the 
 actual importance of the Great Siberian Railway 
 for Russian trade, we must bear in mind the fact 
 that uninterrupted railroad communication will be 
 established between Europe and the Pacific and 
 the Far East. Thus the Siberian Railway opens 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 a new route and new horizons for universal as 
 well as for Russian trade ; it will be of immense 
 economic importance to Russia, and will give a 
 great impulse to Russian industry ; it will con- 
 nect 400 million Chinese and 35 million Japanese 
 with Europe through Russia. The strenuous 
 endeavours made by Germany to gain possession 
 of the markets of the Pacific, and the efforts 
 which have been made to complete the Panama 
 Canal, visibly show that the economic struggle 
 already commenced will end on the Pacific 
 Ocean. The Canadian railroad has now appro- 
 priated part of the freight of silk, tea, and furs 
 which previously reached Europe through the 
 Suez. Undoubtedly part of these goods will 
 pass through Russia, as the journey from Europe 
 through Vladivostok to Shanghai will be made 
 in eighteen or twenty days, instead of forty- 
 five through Suez, or thirty - five days at 
 present by the Canadian Railway. The 
 Siberian line will therefore not only have the 
 effect of increasing the importance of Russia 
 in the universal markets, but new sources of 
 
 
 
THE SIBERIAN RAIL WA Y 203 
 
 national wealth will abundantly open around 
 her. 
 
 There is no occasion to dwell upon the poli- 
 tical importance of the Great Siberian Railway. 
 Its significance is clear from the fact that when 
 the line is completed Russia will not only nomin- 
 ally, but actually occupy that position in the 
 east of Asia which it holds among its friends 
 and enemies in Europe. 
 
APPENDIX B 
 
 SOME EXTRACTS FROM THE BLENCATHRA S 
 LOG-BOOK 
 
 Monday, August 7, 1893. 
 
 3 RM. — Ran into Vardoe Harbour, and moored 
 with two anchors ahead and stern to buoys. 
 
 Log showed 108 miles. Barometer 29.86. Ther- 
 mometer 57. 
 
 Wind westerly, moderate. 
 
 Later. — A strong north-west gale, with heavy rain. 
 
 Friday ', August 1 1. 
 
 Heavy rain till 7 A.M. 
 
 Taking coals and water on board, and sending pro- 
 visions to Orestes and Minusinsk. 
 Bar. 29.80. Therm. 54. 
 
 Thursday, August 17. 
 
 A moderate west to north-west breeze and showery. 
 The Russian vessels came in at 8.30 A.M. 
 Bar. at 2 P.M. 29.72. Therm. 52. 
 Later. — Wind freshening. 
 
THE BLENCA THRA'S LOG-BOOK 205 
 
 Tuesday, August 22. 
 Light south-east breeze and hazy. 
 The Russian vessels and Minusinsk went at 8 A.M. 
 Bar. 30. Therm. 53. 
 
 Wednesday, August 23. 
 
 4 A.M. — Unmoored and steamed to sea. 
 
 5.10 A.M. — Set log and course east by south. 
 Wind fresh, south-east by east. Set fore and aft 
 sails. 
 
 Bar. 30.2. Therm. 50. 
 
 Noon. — Wind increasing. 
 
 4 p.m. — Fog and rain. Hauled in light sails. 
 
 5 P.M. — Hauled in jib. 
 
 Thursday, August 24. 
 
 A fresh breeze from south-east by east, and hazy. 
 
 Bar. 30.4. Therm. 52. 
 
 Log showed 126 miles. 
 
 4.30 P.M. — Orestes took us in tow. 
 
 Friday, August 25. 
 
 A fresh easterly breeze, with overcast sky. Set 
 fore and aft sails. 
 
 Log showed 174 miles at noon. 
 
 Latitude at noon 70.59. Longitude 48.9 E. 
 
 Saturday, August 26. 
 Foggy, rain and sleet first part of day. 
 
2o6 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 J A.M. — Saw some ice, and kept round south end 
 of it. 
 
 Bar. 29.64. Therm. 42. 
 
 Latitude 70.11. Longitude 55.52. 
 
 10 p.m. — Orestes hove off our tow-rope. 
 
 Sunday, August 27. 
 
 8 A.M. — Anchored at mouth of Yugor Straits. 
 The three Russian vessels lying here and a sloop-of- 
 war. 
 
 1 P.M. — Weighed anchor and steamed through the 
 Straits ; found no ice. 
 
 Came back and dropped anchor to wait for Minu- 
 sinsk. 
 
 Bar. 29.84. Therm. 41. 
 
 Tuesday, August 29. 
 
 5 A.M. — Weighed anchor and proceeded under 
 steam. 
 
 A few pieces of ice coming through the Straits. 
 
 8.20 a.m. — Anchored off Khabarova. Put the 
 launch and two dinghies out and started to take in 
 fresh water. 
 
 1.30 P.M. — Took the boats on board, weighed 
 anchor and proceeded, the Orestes towing the Minu- 
 sinsk. 
 
 5 P.M. — Came to some loose ice ; going slow all 
 night ; thick fog. 
 
 10 P.M. — Got into open water. 
 
THE BLENCATHRA'S LOG-BOOK 207 
 
 Wednesday, August 30. 
 
 Started full speed at daylight 
 
 8 A.M. — Had to stop for the Russian vessels. 
 
 I o A.M. — Set all sail and stopped engines. 
 
 I I P.M. — Mr. Popham shot two walrus ; saw a 
 great many on the ice and in the water. 
 
 Thursday, August 31. 
 
 Latitude 72.00. Longitude 67.5 1. 
 Bar. 29.86. Therm. 43. 
 Sighted the Yalmal Land. 
 
 Keeping the lead going 1 5 fathoms. 1 o P.M. 1 3 
 fathoms ; hauled up north by west. 
 
 Friday, September 1. 
 
 At 4 A.M. altered course to north-east by north, 
 12 fathoms, log showed 95 miles. 
 
 Latitude 73.56 N. Longitude 70.37 E. 
 
 Saturday, September 2. 
 
 5.30 P.M. — Dickson's Haven, north-east, 3 miles. 
 1 1.30 p.m. — Came to anchor on the north side in 
 10 fathoms. 
 
 Sunday, September 3. 
 
 3.30 a.m. — Weighed anchor and proceeded ; set all 
 sail. 
 
 10 AM. — Hauled in sails ; going dead slow ; using 
 lead ; 5 fathoms. 
 
2o8 POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Steering south-east, then east by south ; water 
 deepening to 7 fathoms. 
 
 10.30 P.M. — Came to anchor at Golchika. 
 
 Monday, September 4. 
 
 Bar. 29.46. Therm. 50. 
 
 Strong breeze from westward and passing showers 
 of hail. 
 
 Lifted anchor and shifted off shore, and moored 
 with 45 fathoms each way. 
 
 Monday, September 1 1 . 
 
 Light south-east wind and clear. All hands at the 
 Orestes. The Minusinsk went up the river to Yeneseisk 
 at 2 P.M. 
 
 7 p.m. — The wind freshening. Went up the river 
 with steam launch. 
 
 Wednesday, September 1 3. 
 
 A fresh gale from south-west, with fog and rain. 
 Two lighters broke adrift from the Orestes and 
 went on shore at 5 A.M. 
 
 Thursday, September 14. 
 
 6 A.M. — Weighed anchors and steered for a few 
 miles up the river. The wind veered to south and 
 freshened to a gale with snow. Ran back, and moored 
 with 75 and 80 fathoms. 
 
 Barometer fell from 29.40 to 28.80. 
 
 Noon. — Less wind. 
 
THE BLENCATI/RA'S LOG-BOOK 209 
 
 4 P.M. — The wind veered to north - west, and 
 freshened to a strong gale. Barometer commenced to 
 rise. 
 
 10 P.M. — Bar. 29.22. Therm. 43. 
 
 Saturday, September 16. 
 
 A strong southerly gale, with fog and rain. 
 
 At 6 a.m.— The anchors commenced to drag. 
 Started engines. 
 
 7.30 A.M. — Weighed anchors, and steamed across 
 to the west side of the river, and came to anchor in 
 j\ fathoms. 
 
 Bar. 29.8. Therm. 44. 
 
 Monday, September 18. 
 
 A fresh southerly breeze and cloudy. 
 
 6 A.M. — Got under way and steamed up river a few 
 miles ; much sea and thick fog at times. 
 
 Mr. Popham and Mr. James went shooting, and 
 secured ten brace of ptarmigan. 
 
 Wednesday, September 20. 
 
 4 a.m. — Weighed anchor, and proceeded down the 
 river. 
 
 Bar. 29.20. Therm. 38. 
 
 7 a.m. — The Orestes took us in tow. 
 
 Thursday, September 21. 
 
 A strong westerly breeze, clear, with frequent thick 
 showers of snow. 
 
POLAR GLEAMS 
 
 Going along the south edge of the ice in tow by 
 the Orestes. 
 
 Latitude 73.39. Longitude 76.29. 
 Bar. 29.40. Therm. 38. 
 
 Sunday, September 24. 
 
 A fresh south-south-east breeze, with thick fog. Sea 
 smooth. 
 
 6 A.M. — Cleared. Had to haul out south-south- 
 east for ice. 
 
 Noon. — Thick fog. Steaming through loose ice 
 towards the land. 
 
 8 P.M. — Cleared a little, and saw land. 
 
 9 P.M. — Anchored in 14 fathoms. 
 Latitude 70.18 N. Longitude 62.14. 
 Bar. 29.70. Therm. 45. 
 
 Monday, September 25. 
 
 5.30 A.M. — Weighed anchor, and proceeded along 
 the land. 
 
 Noon. — Thick fog ; ship going dead slow ; keeping 
 lead going. 
 
 Grounded off Waigatz Island ; anchor run out and 
 hove off, and brought up to wait till cleared. 
 
 3.30 P.M. — Weather cleared, weighed anchor, and 
 steamed across to Khabarova, and anchored in 5 
 fathoms. 
 
 Tuesday, September 26. 
 1.30 P.M. — Orestes came in. 
 
THE BLENCATHRA'S LOG-BOOK 
 
 2.30 P.M. — Weighed anchor, and proceeded in tow 
 by Orestes. 
 
 Saturday ; September 30. 
 
 A light south-west breeze, with fine clear weather. 
 7.30 A.M. — Log showed 162 miles. 
 12.30 A.M. — Got a pilot at the light - ship and 
 proceeded up the river. 
 Bar. 30.4. Therm. 45. 
 6 P.M. — Came to anchor at Archangel. 
 
 THE END 
 
 Printed by R. & R. Clark, Edinburgh. 
 
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