^ ^'Synija... LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Shelf ....HA 4 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. How to Grow Cut Flowers. A PRACTICAL TREATISE ox THE CULTIVATIOX OF THE ROSE, CARNATION, CHRYSANTHEMUM, VIOLET, AND OTHER WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. ALSO GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. ILLUSTRATED. A BOOK FOK THE FLOKIST AND AMATKUK. BY / / MAi. HUNT. A^ Published by the Author 1893. ^^•^- N\ ^•ii^:^ Entei'ed according to Act of Congress, in the vear 1893, bv M. A. HUNT, In the Oflftce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. b^ VX6 -. A Press of Moore & Langen, Terre Haute. K) HE1{ WHO HAS WALKED BY MY SIDE FOlt NEAULY A (^ AiriKK OK A CENTURY, HAS TEXDERLY CARED FOH ME IN SICK- NESS, CHEERED AIE IN DAYS OF ADVERSITY, AND EARNED HER FULL SHARE OF THE REST THAT HAS COME WITH THE EVEN TIDE OF LIFE, TO MY LOVED WIFE IS THIS \ OLTME DEDICATED. CONTENTS. Page. Preface i-iii. Chapter.— I. Greenhouse Construction 1-17 II. Ventilation— How Constructed 18-22 III. The Short Span to the South 2.3-28 IV. Greenhouse Heating 29-30 V. Hot Water Heating 31-34 VI. The DoAvn- Hill System 35-36 VII. Hot Water under Pressure 37-38 VIII. Heating by Steam .39-43 IX. Overhead Heating 44 X. Roses— Their Cultivation 45-46 XI. Soil 47-49 XII. Stock for Planting 50 56 XIII. The Renewal of Rose Plants 57-58 XIV. Roses in Summer 59-61 XV. Depth of Soil for Planting 62-63 XVI. Planting 63-65 XVII. Staking and Tying 66-71 XVIII. Mulching 72-73 XIX. Watering 74-76 XX. Ventilation 78-80 XXI. Temperature of Water 81-83 XXII. Shading 84-85 XXIII. The Cutting of Buds 86-89 XXIV. Grading and Packing 90 XXV. The Preservation of Flowers 91-93 XXVI. Insect Enemies 94-107 XXVII. Insect Exterminators 108-118 XXVIII. Diseases of the Rose 119-126 XXIX. Forcing Varieties— Cultural Notes 127-140 XXX. The Forcing of Hybrids 141-147 XXXI. Florists' Green 148-152 XXXII. The Carnation 153- XXXIII. Diseases of the Carnation 168-180 XXXIV. Chrysanthemums 181-187 XXXV. Violets 188-194 XXXVI. Mignonette 195-197 XXXVII. The Forcing of Bulbs 198-205 XXXVIII. Orchids 206-208 XXXIX. Miscellaneous Topics 209-228 ILLUSTKATIOX^^. PA<4E Anthracnose of Carnation 173 Bencliing 0-11 Hlack Spot r24-l->5 Bacterial Disease of Carnation 175 Club Root 103 Down-Hill System of laying Water-pipes 82 End of Sash Bar— How Made 14 Evaporating Pan lO'.i Form of Gutter where Houses Join 7 Forcing House for Lily of the Valley 2ill Gauge for setting Bars l(j (iutter for Outside Wall ' »i How to Join Gutters 5 Header used at foot of Ventilator 15 How to fill in between the foot of the Bars 16 Method of Laying Hot Water Pipes 32 Movable Wire Frame for Staking 69 New Method of Building 2s Pot Racks 212 Ridge — how joined 18 Red Spider . . . . • • 94 Rose Bug and Larva 96-97 Rust on Carnation leaf 169 Roof— how supported . '. 12 Ridge— how supported .... 18 Side Ventilation 20 Spot on Carnations 172 Tiie First American Greenhouse Frontisjiiece. Three -Fourths Span House 10 The Short Span to the South 24-26 'I'liri)) 99 Va))urizing Tank and Pipes 111-112 Violet House 190 Violet Root Galls 193 Wire Support for Carnations 159 /inc Joint 17 INDEX. Adiantums, to grow 150 American TJeaiity, cuttings for o4 Treatment of 136 Ammonia, to use 1<)8, '217, 205 Asparagus I'liimosa 152 ]>lack spot, remedy for 127 Jione Meal, value of 215 Boilers, care of 224 Bulbs, how forced 19B Calla Lilly, to grow 205 Carnations, average night temperature 161 ("ut worms on 166 Cuttings, when made 157,179,180 Early planting 157 Fungoid diseases of 169,17:-! Remedies for 174,177 Fertilizers for 168, 164 (irading the flowers 168 Improvements in 158 Insects injurious to 165,166 Kust on 169 To prevent 171 Soil for 168 Supporting, how performed 159,160 Vitality lost 155 When to house 158 When to syringe 165 Chrysanthemums, black apis to kill 187 Crops to succeed them 182 Cuttings, when made 182,184 Distance to plant 184 Grown in Sprays 182 To single flowers 188 Grown in pots 185 New disease of 186 Soil for 188 Varieties foi- cut flowers 186 iv Index, Page Cement, use of 222 C. Mermet, temperature for 131 Cleanliness 209 Club root, to prevent 105.214 Coal tar, its use 219 Grade oil 221 Cuttings, wood for 51 Cut worms Ifjfi 107 Disbudding carnations 165 Chrysantliemums 185 Roses 228 Distillery manure, value of 215 Eel worms, to prevent - 105 Fertilizers 215 Florists' Green 148 Freezias 200 Fungus in cutting bed, cure for 177 Fumigating . II7 Gi-een Fly, to kill 108,117 Greenhouse Construction 1 Benches, how made 0.11,12 Butted glass 17 Gutters, how to join 5 How to attach roof to gutter k; Houses for summer growing 223 Length of a house 4 Lumber, kind to use 8,4,8,0 Xew style of house 2S Outside wall, to cover 8 Painting 14,17 Purlin, what made of 13 Ridge, hOAV made Roof, to raise 15 Size of glass 17 Solid bench, new method 10 Support of ridges 13 Short span to the south 28. 26 Ventilation 18, 19 In wall 20.21 Greenhouse Heating 20 Boiler, kiad to use 39 Fuel lo use 311 Heating by steam 39 Index. v Greenhouse Heating.— Page Hot water heating -^1 T'nder pressure 37,38 Pipes to lay 33,3."') Overhead heating ^^ The down hill system 3ti The best system of heating 42,43 Steam boiler, to set 40 Pipes, size of 41 Xumber of 42 To lay 42 Harrisii, how forced -02 How to Scald a House 210 Horn Shavings 219 Hops, use of 1^^4 How to Kepair a Brick Fire r>ox '•^2G Hot Water, to heat with 31 Insect Exterminators 108,118 Lily of the Valley, house for 201 Forcing of "-02 Lilium Candidum "-04 Liquid >ranure 218 Leaking Pipes, to stop 227 3Iadam Hoste, treatment 140 Meteor, temperature for l-^O Mortar for Fire Drick, to make 22fi Miscellaneous topics 209 Mildew, how to prevent 120,123 INIignonette. butterfly to kill 1^6 Disease, remedy for 19" House, how constructed 196 Seed, selection of 19-5 When sown 196 Temperature for 197 Xai'cissus 198 Xitrate of Soda 217 Xiphetos, budded on 61 Orchids . . . ■ • 206 Best varieties to grow 208 Overhead Heating . . . . • • 44 Papa Gontier, treatment of 1-^4 Pot Racks 212 Preparation of Soil 213 Poses 45, 46 vi Index. Roses.— Page American lieaiit\ 54,186 A cellar for 92,93 Black Spot on 124, 126 liuds. Grading and Packing 9;) How to cut K(;. S9 How to preserve 91 Catharine Mermet lol Club Root 102 To prevent 105, 106 Cultural Notes on 128,140 Depth of soil to plant in 62 Diseases of 119 Forcing varieties of ... 127 Hybrids, forcing of 141,147 Impaired vitality 55,56,222 La France, culture of 135 Madam Cusin 140 Madam Hoste 140 Madam P. Guillott 137 Madam Watteville 138 Meteor 130 3Iealy Bug, to kill 99 Mildew, to prevent 119 Mulching of 72,73 Movable frame for 70, 71 New varieties 141 Xiphetos iss Papa Gontier 134 Perle des Jardins 128 Planting, when and how 63 Propagating from blind wood 51,52 Resting of 54 Renewal of 57 Red Spider 94,95 Solid beds for 62 Shading of 84, 85 souv de Wootton 1,S9 Staking and tying (it. Summer growing of 59, 60 Varieties for 61 Thrip 98 The IJride 13.^ The Leaf Roller 98 Index. vii Roses.— Page TheKoseUug 96,97 Two-eyed cuttings 53 Ventilating 77,80 Watering "4,76 Water, temperature of ^1 Wliite Grub in lOl Wire stakes, cost of "2 W. F. Bennett 1-^'J Komau Hyacinths 19S salt, its use 211 Sod, wheo to cut 214 Soil for certain varieties 47,50 Hov\' to jirepare 213,214 I'sed the second year 220 Steam, to heat with 39 Sniilax, to destroy worms on 14;t, 167 stock for planting 50 Tobacco extract HO Trough for evaporating 109 Tulips, forcinjc of 198 Vaporizing toljacco HI Vitality lost, how restored 223 Violet, club root in 193 Diseases of 192,195 Fungus on 194 House, how to build 190 How to plant 189 Wood ashes 216 White grub 101,215 PREFACE. Notwithstanding the fact that the industry in which we are engaged represents millions of capital, and that it gives employment to many thousands of people, there exists, as yet, no book which gives us information concerning the conduct of this great and constantly increasing business. To be sure, trade journals have been established within a few years, in which valuable experiences have appeared from time to time, but scarcely a decade has passed since a majority of the Avriters were themselves novices, groping in the dark as many a grower is obliged to do to-day. A few wide awake young men are to be found each year, giving time with some of the best growers. If bright and quick to observe, they are in a few years fitted either to conduct business for them- selves, or for others. To the majority, this method of study is not practicable, and there seems to be no way of mastering the business, but by stumbling on from year to year, making mistakes and undertaking experi- ments so costly in themselves, that when the lesson de- rived from them is learned, one finds himself in the possession of an experience, purchased at the cost of valuable time, and oftentimes with a balance on the wrong side of the ledger. ii Preface. Nor are those who are thus struggling along, traveling a new road ; it is a well beaten path, and many of us have pursued it so long, the years in the meantime have slipped away and more gray hairs than riches are left in their train. We have had the experience, but at what a cost ! I well remember, when a young man full of enthusi- asm, and at just that time of life when one knows more than any who have gone before, or who will ever come after him, having made an experiment contrary to the advice of those older than myself, and having had the mortification of seeing it fail, trying to draw consolation from the fact that I had the experience left, how well I remember my father's reply: " My son, purchased wit is good if not bought too dear." Well — I have been buying just such wit as that all my life, and it is with a view to assist those Avho are just entering the road over which I have traveled, that I have undertaken to chronicle the result of experinces that have come to me with the passing years. Could I have had access to the contents of this book fifteen years ago, no price within the limit of my means would have been too great for it, as it would have saved me thousands of dollars, and would undoubtedly have added some years to a life that has seen much of the " wear and tear " that comes from an uphill fight with circumstances. In the compiling of this volume no claim is made to Preface. in infallibility. Some of the deductions may not be in accord with the experience of others, but the facts have been stated as found by the author. Tt is a plain story, the result (^f a life of l)oth experience and observation. To the professors in our exi)eriniental stations we are indebted for mucli of the light already shed upon the diseases incident to plant life. To them, and all others whose opinions liave been quoted in these pages, the author desires to acknowledge his personal obligations. :m. a. hfxt. Terke Hai-te, January, l HM Tzr ^ "D m Fig. 19. the house being eighteen or twenty feet in width. The first cost is a little more, but it insures fully against great falls in temperature to which all sections are liable, and while five pipes will do the work in ordinary weather, there are a few days in nearly every season Hot Water Heating. 33 when they will all be needed, and the saving effected by not having the plants given a check, will oftentimes in one season compensate for the extra expense. To lay these pipes, carry one flow nearly to the ex- treme end of your north bench (See Fig. 19), and re- turn it in two pipes laid directly south of it. Put a valve on this flow at some convenient point near where it enters the house, and these three pipes can be used at will. Carry another flow under the south side of the same bench to within one foot of the extreme end, put on an ell and carry across the end of the house, bring- the water back under the south bench in four pipes, and wdien these approach the boiler they may be united in one and returned to it in that form. In this way you have your heat on the outside of your house for the entire distance, leaving the space under the middle bench clear and free. I have noticed that if the circulation is carried up and down a house without crossing the end farthest from the boiler, sev- eral feet of that end will be cooler than any other part of the house, causing dampness to be driven there, and a consequent condensation of moisture on the foliage during the night, which will soon cause the leaves to fall. The inlets to a boiler should always be greater than the outlet, and it is customary to use them in the pro- portion of a four-inch outlet or flow to two inlets or re- turns of the same size. If the boiler is of suitable ca- 34 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. pacity to carry several houses, it will facilitate the circu- lation to have the outlet six inches, and carried by a pipe of the same size as a header, from which all the four-inch flows may be taken. Should it seem advisable to adopt this, as it is termed " the up hill system," it will be necessary to observe four things : First. That your boiler is set low enough, so that the point from which the water flows out of it shall be at least twelve inches lower than where the flow pipe commences to return to the boiler. Second. That at the highest point of the flow there be a vent for the escape of air. This may be provided for by a regulation stand pij e. A simple way is to tap the casting at that point and screw into it a half inch gas pipe, letting its end be a few inches higher than your expansion tank, or by a simple pet cock which can be opened and closed at will. Third. That neither the flow nor return be allowed to make short dips or depressions from the settling of the rests, as by this means the circulation is sometimes impeded, but that the pipes be so graded that the rise and fall will be as nearly uniform as possible. Fourth. That what is called an "expansion tank" be placed at some convenient point near the boiler. This may vary in size from one-fourth to a full barrel, according to the amount of pipe it is expected to serve, a barrel being as large as will be needed for any ordi- Hot Water Heating. 35 nary sized boiler. Connect this barrel by means of an inch pipe with your return just before it enters the boiler, and all waste of water in the circulation can be supplied from this point. Should the flow at its highest point not be supplied with a stand pipe, it is best to tap the flow as it leaves the boiler, inserting an inch pipe and carrying it over and just into the top of the expansion tank. This will not only allow air to escape, but should the fires be crowded so that steam is generated, it can escape at this point and what is termed " kicking" pipes will be avoided. As to the height of this tank, the bottom of it should always be higher than the highest part of any of the pipes. CHAPTER VI. THE DOWN HILL SYSTEM. The second system of hot water heating is what is called the "down hill system," and differs from the one just described in that the water is raised to the highest point at once, and from that point gradually falls until it reaches the boiler again. This gives an opportunity for overhead heating, which for some crops is beneficial, while to others it is detrimental. To lay these pipes, commence with the flow, raising it perpendicularly from the boiler, to such a height as will permit you to carry the main from which your 36 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. flows are taken, over your doorways. From your highest upright point, let the pipes fall gradually all the way round. If you use a barrel for expansion, let the bottom of it be a little above the top of the flow. Connect it with the return as described already, tapping Fier. 20. the highest point on the flow pipe and carrying thence an inch pipe over and into the top of the barrel. See Fig. 20. It is also well to have one or more pet cocks at other points, in order to facilitate the exit of air when filling the pipes. Hot Water Under Pressure. 37 Two things can be said in favor of this system. It permits of setting the boiler on the surface of the ground. It can be used in the growth of such crops as are benefited bv overhead heat. CHAPTER VII. HOT WATER UNDER PRESSURE. The third system is that of hot water underpressure, and requires that both pipe and boiler be of wrought iron, if the pressure is over twenty pounds. Tw^o inch gas pipes are commonly used for this and they may be laid as already described, on the "down hill " plan ; but for this no expansion tank is required. This system is practicable only when it can be con- nected with water pressure, either public or private, and should not be less than ten pounds as indicated by a steam gauge. If you have city water works, carry an inch pipe from the coldest part of your boiler— w^hich is usually the rear and near the bottom— connecting the same at some convenient point with the hydrant. This will consti- tute your expansion tank, and the amount of pressure you can carry on your boiler without emptying it, will be a fraction less than a gauge will indicate as being the pressure of the hydrant w^ater. If a higher degree of pressure is maintained on the 38 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. boiler than the water works give, the result Avill be to emj^ty your boiler and pipes into the hydrant. While a valve is essential on the pipe connecting the hydrant with the boiler, it must always he left open when the boiler is in use. Do not commit the error of a brother florist who was also searching for "purchased wit," and be- cause the fire was moving the water towards and into the hydrant, shut the valve! — the result of his experi- ment being, that the next time he looked at his boiler the pressure was above danger point, and had not vent been given at once and the fire raked out, boiler, houses and all would have traveled skywards. To insure a free circulation, connect a stand pipe with the flow at its highest point near the boiler. This should be of the same size as the pipe with which it is connected, and from three to five feet long. Close the top securely, tap and screw into its highest point an automatic air cock, in order that all air may be ex- pelled as fast as it gathers. Marvelous figures were given, a few years since, of the saving in pipe by this method over the other two, but experience does not substantiate them. I have found seven two-inch pipes none too many to maintain a temperature of 65 degrees in a house twelve feet wide, and for one eighteen feet wide, sixteen are used. This is more than twice the amount of pipe needed when the circulating medium is steam. Heating by Steam. 8& CHAPTER VIII. HEATING BY STEAM. The fourth and last system is that of steam. To give all the various methods advocated for steam heating would of itself require a larger volume than this. For this reason only a few general principles can be given, leaving the builder to apply them to any particular system he may choose to adopt. First, the boiler should have a power of at least 50 per cent, in excess of what will be demanded of it in all ordinary weather, and more is better. What is true of this, is true of all heat generators. Time and coal are largely economized by having a capacity for heat far in excess of the need. For instance, if you are sat- isfied a boiler costing $300 will do your work with close attention, add $200 more to it and let your lire burn naturally, thus reducing much coal to ashes that other- wise would go out of the stoke hole in the form of coke and charred coal. These rules apply in the main to boilers in which a cheap grade of bituminous coal is used. Having had less experience in burning anthracite I cannot speak intelligently of its requirements. It is not uncommon for a boiler, especially if old or second hand, to fail at a time when needed most, and it is mistaken economy to ever set any but those newly made, and in which the best of material has been used. Even in this case, some prefer to insure themselves against loss by setting two, each of them being of suffi- 40 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. cient capacity to do the work required, but so con- nected that a change can be made at short notice in case a flue should collapse, or for any other reason one should become disabled. Many years ago, an accident of this kind occurred with the writer, and had it not been that it was during a "January thaw" when the thermometer did not fall below (iO at any time during the six days required for repairs, it would have been a serious matter and resulted in great loss. At the time alluded to, tlie work was being done by one thirty horse power locomotive boiler. One morning a crack was found in the crown sheet, from which water enough soon escaped to render firing impossible. Examination developed the fact that between the bars which held it in position, a deposit of scale and mud had formed, suf- ficient to prevent water from reaching the sheet and counteracting the heat of the fire. This fact is cited to show that whatever our heating system, boilers should be carefully examined every season before commencing a winter's work. The second thing to be observed is the setting of your boiler. A perfect circulation of steam should be obtained with a pressure of two pounds or less, and it is desirable to return the condensation directly to the boiler without the intervention of traps or pumps of any kind. To do this, it is necessary to have the boiler lower than the return pipes. If you are building on descending ground, have your boiler pit at the lowest Heating by Steam. 41 point. If on level ground, let your pit be deep enough so the top of the boiler will be two or three feet lower than are your returns at any point where they leave your liouses and are connected with a main ready to be dropped perpendicularly or otherwise, and be con- nected with the boiler at its lowest point. This will give a fall of from six to ten feet according to the size and kind of boiler you use, and is essential to a perfect circulation. Third, see that your main pipe from which all the lesser mains are fed, is of sufficient size. A boiler of sufficient capacity to feed 10,000 feet of IJ inch pipe should have a six-inch distributing main 15 feet long, when it may be reduced to 4 inches, and this should extend as far as the combined width of your houses, whether you feed them all from one end, or whether the distribution is made each way from a central house. The size of the connecting mains will depend upon the length and size of the house. Two inches is sufficient to feed six two-inch returns, or nine one and one-quarter inch. If radiation is not wanted from this pipe it, as well as the six-inch, should be well protected by some of the best forms of covering. The main which feeds the house should be carried" to its extreme end and from that point distributed into as many returns as are necessary to keep the temperature at the degree desired. For a house eighteen feet wide one two- inch flow and six two-inch returns, or one two-inch 42 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. flow and nine one and one-quarter inch returns will maintain a temperature of 60° when the outside tem- perature is twenty below zero. From the point where the main feed leaves the four or six inch pipe, all the pipes should have a fall until connected again with the boiler, and the point where they emerge from the house on their return should be supplied with air cocks. These should all be closed as soon as circulation is fully established. As the returns emerge from the houses connect them with a three- inch pipe, but place this last named pipe below the water line of the boiler before the returns are connected with it. It can then be joined to the base of the boiler. Although not absolutely necessarv, it is probably bet- ter to carry the main feed of a house down the centre, and from twelve to fifteen inches below the ridge. As before mentioned, if radiation from this pipe is not de- sired, it can very easily be retained by asbestos or other covering. A careful observance of ah these points is necessary to a perfect circulation. The valves and checks necessary to the control of the circulating me- dium are well known to all steam fitters and need not be enumerated here. I am sometimes asked the question Avhich of all these systems I like the best, and which I would advise a beginner to adopt. This last question cannot be answered definitely, for reasons already stated, and as to the first, I can only give my own experience. Heating by Steam. 43 For ten years and more prior to the general introduc- tion of steam for greenhouse heating I was conversant with its use, but in a more imperfect form in some respects than as used at the present time. In the growth of cut flowers for the past ten years, hot water in its various forms has been used by me exclusively. I am unable to say, however, by actual test, which of the two systems will produce the best results, as I have had no opportunity to try them in comparison and under equal circumstances. The consensus of opinion undoubtedly favors the use of steam on large places, and while it may be best to equip a new and large range of houses in this way, I have not as yet seen it to be to my interest to change a system that works satisfactorily, as that change must necessarily mean a large sacrifice of material in the process of reconstruction. On the other hand, if your place is small, you will doubtless find the old system of hot water to require less care and trouble in the production of good results. 44 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. CHAPTER IX. OVERHEAD HEATING. For growing roses, I am satisfied that "overhead heating" is a positive injury, unless the pij^es are at such a distance from the plants that the radiation will not foster spider. The distance not being less than that of the main feed pipe near the ridge previously described. But that it is beneficial to some crops has been demonstrated in my own experience. In the growth of carnations, I consider a portion of the heat thus applied of positive benefit, as it helps to dr}^ the foliage at a season of the year when artificial means are necessary. For the growth of small roses in pots, this method is also of great value, and were I piping my houses anew, I should provide an extra pipe over every bench used for this purpose, arranging it so as to be under perfect control, to be used or not, as seemed necessary. A knowledge of the benefit derived from this meth- od came to me bykaccident. In the winter of '91, being crowded for room, I' removed the contents of a north bench which had been occupied by " Wabans" (more experience) and filled it with young pot plants that had been potted about three weeks, and which up to date had been given what is considered the best room in a house, a south bench near the glass. The bench to which they were removed was fully three feet from the glass, and partially shaded by a rank growth of Roses. 45 roses on a middle bench south of it. Directly under the gutter was a four-inch hot water main running the entire length of the house, and notwithstanding it was in January when sun heat is scarce, the radiation from this main evaporated all dampness and moisture from the plants, rendering it possible to syringe often, and to produce under these seemingly unfavorable circum- stances, a health and vigor of growth seldom seen at that season of the year, even under the best possible conditions. CHAPTER X. ROSES. THEIR CULTIVATION, DISEASES, ETC. No other. plant is to-day so largely grown for cut flowers as the rose. Nor is there another upon which so much time and thought has been expended in its development, or in its perfection. The short season during which roses are sold at a profit renders it im- perative that he who would make the most of that period, must avail himself of every facility which will contribute to success. To this end essays have from time to time been called for from the most successful growers. Discussions calculated to bring to the surface thoughts born of experience have been called out, and while in this way many valuable facts and suggestions id, How TO Grow Cut Flowers. have been brought to our attention, still each grower has had to act largely upon his own judgment, and draw conclusions in the main from his own experi- ence. I well rememJDcr the eager anticipation with which I listened to the first essay on this subject, as well as the unsatisfied hunger and disappointment with which I turned away at its close, simply because I did not find in it the solution of the one c^uestion above all others which was then troubling me. In the liglit of subse- quent events I can see that it was all clear to the mind of the essayist, and that he could not have known the conditions which constituted a failure with me, while with him, seemingly, similar conditions Avere a success. As this line of thought tends directly to the use of soils, and as my belief increases with each passing year, that on them, and on their adaptability to the needs of the different varieties of roses we grow, depends, in no small degree, our success, it seems to me wise to com- mence with what may be truly considered the foun- dation stones of our superstructure. Soil. 47 CHAPTER XL SOIL. The impression at one time prevailed to a consider- able extent that a chemical analysis would reveal what was lacking to make a perfect soil, and that this ingredi- ent could be supplied artificially. Unfortunately, ex- periments in this line only went to prove that Dame Nature resented any such interference with her secret laboratory, so that observation and experiment seem to be the only means at our command with which to prove their adaptability for producing certain desired results. For ten years past, no one rose has been cultivated so extensively, as Perle des Jardins, and still in some localities it cannot be grown with any degree of suc- cess. In fact it has been discarded by some prominent growers for that reason. Where I am located, the soil is a rich loam with a slight mixture of sand, and has a sandy clay subsoil, but not of sufficient strength for the manufacture of either brick or pottery ware. It is a soil perfectly adapted to the growth of Perle, and in which a crop has never failed to give the best results. When Catherine Mermet and American Beauty ap- peared and were given a trial, disappointment was the only result. Both made a magnificent growth, but the Beauties rarely formed a bud, while those that matured on Mermet were so inferior in size and color as to be 48 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. practically worthless. It was at this stage that I found myself so hungry for the essay already alluded to. Visits to eastern growers made about this time, re- vealed the fact that some of them were unable to grow Perle, while other varieties which failed with me, grew there to perfection. A careful examination and comparison of soils showed theirs to be much firmer and heavier than mine, with a stiff subsoil, through which there was no apparent mixture of sand. This convinced me that herein lay the secret of my failure and their success, but how to supply the needed soil was a knotty prob- lem. One summer day a short time previous to this, while visiting a brother florist, my attention was called to a magnificent growth of roses, as well as to the peculiar character of the soil in which they were planted. In- quiry elicited the fact, that being out of sod soil, the thought had occurred to him to try a gravelly paste which was found ten feet below the surface. He had discovered this in a bank he was excavating close by in order to make room for another house. No fertilizing material was added, and still the luxuriance of foliage was astonishing. So impressed was I with these re- sults that I took a sample of the soil home with me, and called the attention of my foreman to its peculiar char- acter. Not long after, he brought me one day a soil of similar texture found on our own premises, and upon Soil. 49 land hitherto considered worthless. This vein is from one to two feet thick and about six feet below the sur- face, and consists of both coarse and fine gravel, thor- oughly mixed and held together by a sticky, paste-like substance. A trial of this proved it to be the one thing lacking in my soil for the successful growing of certain varieties. Now, with one-third of this added to our natural soil, as good Brides, or Mermets can be grown as are to be found anywhere, while Beauties, instead of climbing out through an aperture in the roof as of old, form buds on a majority of the shoots, which de- velop into first-class flowers. In order to prove the theory upon Avhich I started, a part of a bench was planted to Perles in which this mixture was used. The growth was grand. Foliage dark and glossy, rich be- yond anything I had ever seen, but not one perfect flower was cut from that bench during the entire sea- son, all being what are termed "bullheads." These were grown in a house with Mermets and at the same temperature. In addition to those varieties mentioned, Madam Hoste, Gontier, and Souv de Wootton, thrive well in this kind of soil, but for La France, Duchess of Albany and Niphetos this mixture is useless, in fact a positive injury. I have been thus explicit in giving my experience m this matter, because no one can afl()rd to overlook the minutest details while studying soils, and cause and 50 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. effect connected with their use. Also, because others may find conditions to exist which call for a systematic search not only for the cause, but the remedy. Those conversant with the black prairie soil of Illi- nois will have noticed its peculiar texture when wet, and it would seem that it must possess these necessary ingredients. Certain it is, the writer has seen Ameri- can Beauty in perfect form with some growers who aie using this upland sod, and it would seem that if otxiers fai*; of good results with the same soil, there must be other conditions necessary to success that have not been complied Avith. These will be considered un- der their various heads as we proceed. CHAPTER XII. STOCK FOR PLANTING. An important preliminary to planting, is the selec- tion and propagation of the stock we are to use for that purpose. While a general description of the art of propagation and growth of plants is foreign to my purpose, so far as it relates to the subject matter under consideration, I think it of sufficient importance to claim our earnest thought. With good stock, planted at the proper time, succeeding steps are comparatively easy. With medium or inferior plants at the start, it is an uphill fight all the Avay through, and a conse- quent loss. Stock for Planting. 51 The class of wood to be used for cuttings, is in my estimation, an important matter. I am aware that this has given rise to much controvers}^ of late, but notwith- standing the opinions given by some of our best grow- ers, I still claim that an indiscriminate use of wood in propagating— if we would obtain the best results— is a mistake. When practicable to do so, I would never use anything l)ut clean healthy shoots terminated by buds. Reject absolutely, all "trimmings" or weak growth, and have as little to do with blind wood as possible. It stands to reason, that a succession of the best will gradually raise the standard of excellence. We know this to be true in animal life. It has also been proved in various ways in the vegetable king- dom. All know the unswerving law of heredity in the human organism. The sooner we apply these p>roved principles to matters horticultural the more rapid will be our approach to the ideal standard. The propagation of roses from blind wood may show no appreciable evil results for one, two or three years. But let him who would demonstrate it thoroughly per- sist in the use of this wood alone for ten or fifteen years, and we shall then know whether the tendency is to de- preciate the blooming qualities of the stock or not. As for myself, I have no desire to experiment in that di- rection, preferring to use such as I know will bring sat- isfactory results. No practical riian will attempt to improve any species 52 How TO Gkow Cut Flowers. either in the animal or vegetable kingdom, by repro- ducing them through the medium of inferior parent- age. But a prominent grower once said to me, " You are unfair in your premises ; plants are not governed by any such laws." Let us look into the matter. Some time since, while examining the plants in the Botanical Garden at Washington, my attention was called to one, Avith the request that I name it. It re- sembled a familiar variety, but was so far superior in every way that I hesitated to call it by name. It proved to be what it seemed, Ficus Repens, but so greatly changed b}^ careful selection and the propaga- tion each year for fifteen years, from each year's im- provement, as to be scarceh^ recognized at the end of that time. If this proved true in this instance and with this plant, why does it not apply to other plants as well ? 1 have felt confident for years that it was one of the fac- tors of success, and am confirmed in this belief through the recently published statement of one of our most in- telligent carnation growers, who in an able article con- tends that he has proved these conditions necessary in the propagation of this, his specialty, if he would foster and preserve freedom of bloom*. In many instances it is necessary to the trade of the grower, or the wants of the locality where he may be, to raise a miscellaneous stock. On such a place it will -American Florist, Vol. 8, page 236. Stock for Planting. 53 usually be found that every nook and corner is filled Avith market plants at the season of the year when the roses, upon which he must depend for his next winter's bloom, need both room and careful attention, preclud- ing the possibility of his giving them the care and watchfulness necessary to have them in perfect form Avhen needed for planting. Many growers so situated have given up trying to raise their own flowering stock, being satisfied that it is to their interest to contract with some specialist for their supply, giving him time to grow their plants so that they may be delivered at a specified time, and in size and condition superior to what his limited facilities would permit. We hear of " two-eyed cuttings," and see plants ad- vertised as having been grown from such. The suppo- sition is that there is an eye at either end of the cutting, one of which is placed in the sand and around which the roots form, while the other constitutes the nucleus of the future plant. Unless it is desired to have roses send up canes from the base, or from underneath the surface soil, it is a mistake to insert an eye in the sand, or to leave a heel on the cutting, as that is full of eyes. Such canes almost invariably throw a cluster of buds, and are deficient in length of stem and foliage. Every encouragement should be given to have the plants break from their heads, throwing long stems, ter- minated by single buds, and thus be enabled to give both the length of stem and luxuriance of foliage so 54 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. much in demand. If it is desired to produce plants quickly several eyes may be left above the sand; otherwise I know of no advantage gained by the use of more than one eye to a cutting, provided, always, that the stem of the cutting is of sufficient length to maintain itself in the sand until rooted. American Beauty is an exception to the rule of one- eyed cuttings, because it is so closely jointed it is often necessary to use several eyes in order to obtain a cut- ting of sufficient length. It is also desirable to encour- age this variety to break from the base, and to this end it is well to place one or more eyes in the sand. It is customary with some to grow their plants to a good size in four-inch pots, and then rest them for two weeks before planting. This is done by plunging the pots outside, or setting them on a bed of coal ashes, withholding water in a measure, until the wood is well ripened, and I have seen them sometimes so thoroughly ripened that the foliage assumed a yellowish tint as though autumn had really overtaken them. I have never been able to see any beneficial results from this method, and prefer planting permanently without any rest after reaching this stage of growth. From the time the cutting is placed in the sand un- til it is thrown out as an exhausted pJant the following season, I do not believe it should receive a check of any kind, but on the contrary, that every possible means should be employed to keep it in a healthful^ Stock for Planting. 55 vigorous growth, and the later the planting is done, the more advanced and vigorous should the pot plants be. The question naturally arises, will not this impair the constitutional vigor of our stock ? I am aware that at least two extensive growers of the rose so contend. They advocate an occasional outside planting of a year's stock, giving it a summer's growth in the open ground, a natural rest in winter, then starting it into growth early in the spring and from the wood thus grown, make the stock for flowering. If it is found to be necessary, this is a rational way of restoring impaired vitality, but being an expensive method, should be avoided if others more inexpensive can be found which will accomplish the same result, and I think an occasional renewal of stock through the use of semi-dormant cuttings made in the fall, and rooted cool, a better, as well as a less expensive method. When cuttings are first potted, they should be screened from bright sunshine until root action begins. Ever after this stage until planted, give the young plants the benefit of the best bench in the house under full sunlight. Carefully observe all the conditions of syr- inging, airing and shifting, necessary to a perfectly healthy stocky growth, and I do not think you need fear any deterioration in the constitutional vigor of your roses. When roses are planted carelessly, left to the care of incompetent help, the temperature allowed to run up 56 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. to 100° more or less before ventilation is given, and drop to 40 or 50 at night while the fireman enjoys a quiet nap, you can certainly look for impaired vitality. If you have a healthy child, will you keep him in a close, unventilated room at a high temperature for fear a breath of air will subject him to a cold and its at- tendant evils, or will you follow your physician's ad- vice — clothe him warmly and send him out into the air and sunshine, to romp on the lawn or roll in the sand as suits his inclination, taking care at the same time to supply him liberally with the Scotchman's diet? Then, so far as these principles accord with common sense and experience, apply them to plant life and you will find healthy, sturdy, vigorous growth your reward. It is mistaken economy when obliged to defer plant- ing later than July, to use anything but the best and strongest of stock ; in fact, there is no economy in using or buying plants for this purpose because they are cheap. Whether you raise your own, or whether you buy of others, never use or buy any but the best, and for such, if obliged to purchase, be willing to pay the grower a fair compensation. Renewal of Rose Plants. 57 CHAPTER XIIL THE RENEWAL OF ROSE PLANTS. It will have been noticed that I have assumed that all planting was to be renewed each year. I sincerely wish I could advise flowering them the second season, especially such as are not overgrown and exhausted ; it would save so much time and expense. Sometimes, owing to a delay in planting, a bench does not arrive at its best until March or April, and as we look it over, note the size and number of the buds, as well as the fine thrifty foliage, we persuade ourselves easily, that this bench will certainly do well another season. So I have thought several times, al- though previous experience had taught me better. Two years since I allowed inclination to get the bet- ter of judgment, and a house of Mermets answering the description just given, were flowered the second season, or rather, an attempt was made in that direc- tion. They were carefully summered, not being al- lowed to become dry enough to injure the fibrous roots as we thought. In the fall they were pruned, tied, as much of the soil as possible removed without injuring the roots, fresh soil and composted mulching applied, and they started slowly into growth. The result was less than half a crop, and in March they were thrown out, making a net loss for that bit of experience of $500. This was on an ordinary raised bench. 58 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. Early last summer I prepared a solid bed, drained it well and transferred to it some one year old Beauties from a raised bench. They were fine plants, had not been overworked, and in moving them we first cut all around the plant, then taking them one by one, with a shovel removed them with as little disturbance to the roots as possible. Root growth was encouraged in these at once, and although they gave excellent prom- ise and made a fair growth, less than one-half as many buds have been cut from it, as from the bench from which they were taken, which Avas replanted in June with young plants propagated early in March. I know men who have in a few instances had fair success in growing roses in shallow benches the second year. But they are experts, and I notice do not try it if they have plenty of nice young plants to use in- stead. As a rule, it is not the expert grower who tries this method. It is the novice to whom it seems not only a sacrifice of money, but of product as well, to throw the stock out and start anew. I have two establishments in mind, both large, and they are illustrations of these two methods. One dis- carded all his stock, planted early Avith fresh young plants, and now at the close of the year, the growth is a marvel of beauty, and the product unexcelled. Four- fifths of the plants on the other place were retained, and the spectacle is as much of a marvel, in its way, Roses in Summer. 59 as the first. Could photographic views of these living illustrations of our subject matter be placed before you side by side in these pages, I think it would forever cure any one of following in the footsteps of the " econo- mical" man. CHAPTER XIV. ROSES IN SLMMEK. Those having a summer trade in cut flowers can raise a better class of flowers, and at the same time bridge over the gap made each season in the supply through the renewal of the benches, by having a few houses de- voted to this special purpose. Oftentimes during the summer there is a scarcity of first class cut blooms. For this various reasons exist. In many instances the plants have been allowed to be- come exhausted through lack of nourishment at the proper time. Others may have had their vitality im- paired through inattention and consequent inroads of insects which sap their life. Plants, too, that have been handled well, and made to produce to their utmost for six months, are not in a condition to do as successful work during the warm months. They have been con- stantly pushing up towards the light, and now as the weather becomes warmer, the rank growth is too near 60 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. the glass to produce buds of fine form and size. Added to tliese reasons is the fact that buds from newly planted stock are not, until the approach of cool weather, as firm nor as large as the market requires. This want can be supplied by planting in solid beds and allowing them to come in and go out with the sea- son. They should be housed to protect them from winds and storms, as well as the various insects which mar both flower and foliage on plants in the open ground. These houses should be so arranged as to keep out severe frosts, heat being supplied in sufficient quan- tity to keep them at from thirty to thirty-five during the winter months. With the turn of the season — usu- ally in February — they can be pruned back, tied down if need be, mulched and brought gradually on, so that by the time the winter plants commence to fail, you will have a succession of sturdy bloom. As fall approaches, leave the houses open to the weather until frost, letting nature ripen them in her own way and prepare them for their Avinter's rest. The varieties to be selected for this work are such as observation teaches us need a warm summer tempera- ture to bring them to perfection. There are many va- rieties, grand for summer flowering, that are utterly worthless in winter, and the reverse is equally true. It is useless to exjject fine blooms in summer from plants which require a low temperature to bring them to perfection in winter. For instance, Mermet, Bride, Roses in Summer. 61 or any other rose requiring the same temperature as these, is valueless in a high temperature. On the con- trary, there are many varieties that need just such a temperature to bring out their greatest beauty. For a yellow, Etoile de Lyon is a fine summer rose, and still I doubt Avhether it will suit the buyer in all respects as well as Perle. In pink, both La France and Duchess of Albany are grand, and if we desire the more delicate shades, Mad. Pierre Guillott and Grace Darling will supply the want. For white, Marie Guillott is the best, unless it be Niphetos, but the latter, if on its own roots, is not strong enough for this purpose. If you will plant a house to a few Chromotella, say one every twenty feet, train them to cover an entire bench, budding the branches with Niphetos from time to time as they fill the space, you will in a few years have a wonderfully productive house of the very best of white roses. Red can be supplied by the use of Meteor, which rev- els in a high temperature. There are still others, and they are favorites with all rose lovers, but this list gives a good range of color and others can be added according to the taste of the grower. A system like this enables one to commence planting for winter bloom in season to have his plants at their best during the time when flowers are wanted most, and give the greatest returns. 62 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. CHAPTER XV. DEPTH OF SOIL FOR PLANTING. There is but little diversity of opinion to-day, among men of experience, as to the advisability of rising shal- low benches, instead of solid beds for winter flowering. In the early days of forcing, solid beds were in general use, and it was not until the necessity arose of devising some means for the extermination of the rose bug, or "little joker," as it is sometimes called, that the discov- ery was made that roses planted on shallow benches were more easih^ controlled, and could be made much more profitable even when renewed every season, than the un- certain, slow moving bushes whose roots take such deep hold of the soil as to make them in a measure beyond control, and hence uncertain for early forcing. We must remember that we are in a measure, reversing one of Nature's laws, and coaxing plants to bloom at a season of the year when it is natural for them to rest. This can only be done successfully when we are able to control root action, and this is accom- plished by means of the shallow bench. As to the depth of soil to be used, authorities vary. Some say two and one-half inches, some three, others six and more. The objections to benches as fleet as those first mentioned are two. First, the roses must be planted while small in order to be able to cover the ball. This necessitates planting earlier than it is often advisable to remove the bearing crop, if sufficient time is to be given the Depth of Soil for Planting. 03 new plants in which to make the growth they should before their season of flowering commences. The other objection lies in the fact that during the heated term, when air must be given day and night, and in quantity, evaporation is so rapid as to endanger root action unless the utmost vigilance is exercised. To be sure, constant watchfulness is the key to success, but it is not advisable for one to double his responsi- bility in this respect, and as I believe, unnecessarily. It is my custom, as a rule, to commence planting in May, selecting for this early work such benches as are paying the least. The plants used during this month and next are usually from three-inch pots, but all planting after June is, as a rule, from four-inch pots. This necessitates a depth of about five inches of soil in order to cover the ball well, and I am satisfied this depth is better than either more or less, if for a year's work. CHAPTER XVI. PLANTING. To secure perfect drainage and thus keep the soil sweet, the benches should be constructed of boards not more than six inches wide, with a crack of half an inch between them. When sod can be had in abundance it is well to cover the cracks in the bottom of the bench with it, putting 64 How TO Geow Cut Flowers. the grass side down. This should be of uniform thick- ness, and as thin as it will hold together and permit of handling. The spade is too slow for this work, and every place of any size should possess a sod cutter where much is to be used. In case sod cannot be obtained, cover with clean straw, or with that which can be shaken out from the stable waste. Bring in your pre- pared soil and fill the bench. Level and firm the soil well, either by treading it with the feet or by tamping it with a brick, being careful to observe that there are no loose spots in the corners or around the edges. Many growers plant so those in the second row will be half way between those of the first, and so continue with each row, claiming for this method the advan- tage of each plant occupying an equal amount of space. See Fig. 21 o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Fig. 21. This is correct, but beds are more easily cared for when the rows run at right angles vrith each other, the first plan necessitating a walk through a centre bench. When planting at right angles, in a bench eight feet wide plant seven rows. This will give twelve inches Planting. 65 between the plants one way, and allow the two outside rows to be six inches from the edge of the bench. Fifteen inches, at least, should be the distance between the short rows across the bench. Some plant them as far as eighteen inches apart. Planting should be done with accuracy, in order that each plant may have its exact amount of space. This will be rendered easy of accomplishment if the ends of the bench are spaced off, nails driven and a line stretched the whole length of the bench, the short rows across the bench having been previously marked out. Start with your middle row, and with a trowel cut out enough to receive the ball of the plant, letting its top be a little below the surface of the soil. Firm the soil well around the plant, leaving a slight depression where planted, for the better retention of water. Should your plants be uneven in size, assort them so that the strongest will be at the back or north row of the mid- dle bench and the shortest in front, grading the bed with the slope of the roof. Care should be taken not to plant a dry ball. If such are found, dip in Avater until thoroughly soaked before planting. If the side benches are of equal width, or three feet each, three rows can be planted on each of them, mak- ing a house one hundred feet by eighteen, to hold about 1,000 plants. If the soil was in what is termed "a good growing condition " when placed in the bench, let your water- 66 How TO Geow Cut Flowers. ing be light for a few clays, filling the depression spoken of around the plant the first time water is ap- plied, but confining its use to frequent light syringing until root action commences. In this way the roots will seek the surrounding soil much more rapidly than if the entire bench is water soaked. In about ten days the surface will be covered with a multitude of small weeds. To exterminate these, on a bright sunny day, take a small fine rake and go over the whole carefully. If this is practiced every week for three or four weeks, there will be no necessity for hand picking, and by that time, the plants if strong at first, will have put out a vigorous growth and be ready for their first mulching, but to facilitate this they should be properly staked and tied. CHAPTER XVII. STAKING AND TYING. I am not sure whether the old practice of cutting bean poles for the purpose of staking, in order to save buying canes, has been entirely abandoned or not. If not it should be, as it is a case of mistaken econo- my, for after filling the soil with timber and shading the plants with miniature forest trees, the poor roses have a hard struggle for their share of room and sun- shine. Staking and Tying. 67 Cane stakes from the Ohio river bottoms have been extensively used for this purpose, but are objectionable for several reasons. First, the lack of depth of soil will not permit any stake to enter a sufficient distance to stand erect without support. Second, such portion of it as enters the soil must be removed the following season, and one or two repetitions of this so shortens the stake as to render a new^ supply necessary. Third, being hollow they make an excellent harbor for insects, some of which if they obtain a foothold, will nest and live there, and be on hand at an early date to sample the new crop. A better, though at first more expensive way, is to use galvanized wire. This requires two sizes, number six for the standards, and number sixteen for staying their tops and holding them in place. At either end of the bench place frames for the reception of the small wire. These can be constructed of gas pipe, or of wood as preferred. The horizontal part to which the wires are fastened, should be about three and one-half feet above the soil, or the top of it a few^ inches below the purlin. Brace these frames well either in front, or by attaching strong wdres, one end of which has been fastened to the end of the house, so that the tension will not spring the frame. Take an end of the wire, double and make a twist about ten inches long, pass this around the pipe or through a staple as the case may be, and fasten securely by neatly winding 68 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. one-half of the twisted piece around the other. This will give it greater strength and render it more capable of withstanding the tension. With a wire stretcher draw the wire taut, double and fasten around the frame at the other end of the bench in the same way as the first. Continue in this manner until all your upper wires are in position, being careful to draw all of them equally taut. The number required will depend upon the number of plants. If there are seven across the bench, it will require sixteen stakes, or two to a plant, and the same number of small wires for their support. Before stretching the first v/ire, mark each end of the frame so that the spaces between the wires will be equal, and after they are all in position they can be staid in the following manner: Arrange the supports to both the ridge and purlin so that at every twenty or twenty-five feet they shall be opposite each other, and at right angles to the bench. To these fasten at each end a strip two inches b}^ half an inch, into one edge of which a saw calf has been made a quarter of an inch deep, and of a size and corresponding distance that will just receive the wires, and you will have a firm wire frame to work to. This should all be in place before the bed is planted. If it is your custom to bring in and carry out the soil in hand flats, the wire frame over the middle bench can be made permanent, but if wheelbarrows or hand Staking and Tying. 69 carts are used, necessitating travel back and forth on the bench, the frames can with little trouble be so con- structed as to admit of the wire frame being raised on the north side nearly to the glass and thus be out of the way. To do this, if it is desired to construct the Fig. 22. 70 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. frame of wood, use four bv four oak or some other firm woodj join one end of the horizontal bar to the shorter upright by means of a bolt passing through both, and thus form a flexible joint. Let the longer upright extend as far as it will be de- sirable to raise the wire frame. The bar to which the wires are attached should extend beyond this upright sufficiently — about eight inches — to prevent its slip- ping inside when raised to its top. Fasten this bar at the height desired by a bolt passing through both it and the standard, so that when the frame is raised the bolt can be drawn, and the same bolt again used in another set of holes to keep it in place. It is needless to add that the frames at both ends should be alike and raised simultaneously. There are two objections to a wood frame. While it is the cheapest, it looks clumsy, and projecting over the walk, as a movable one must, is apt to be in the way when one is thoughtlessly passing. In order to construct a movable frame of gas pipe, the bar to which the wires are attached should be two-inch, but the uprights may be of one and a half inch if de- sired. For making the flexible joint, use an ell, or a close nip and a tee. See Fig 22. Let the tee (a) be rimmed out so that the bar (b) will pass through it, and drill a hole for a pin (c), also drill two sets of holes through the bar for the reception of the pin (c), these should be at right angles to each Staking and Tying. 71 other, or in other words, by them divide the circumfer- ence of the bar into four spaces of equal distance. Instead of letting the bar project beyond the long standard (d), cap it with a coupling (e) that wdll project but an inch, and when it is desired to raise the frame, a short piece of pipe (f ) can be screwed into the coup- ling, and provision can be made for fastening both this and the main bar, b}^ drilling holes in both them and the post, that will admit a bolt (g) of suitable size to hold them in place. These frames should be held firmly in place by strong wires fastened securely to the ends of the house. Before staking in the fall, if the wires have become slack, place a pair of tongs on each end of the bar (b), remove pins (c) and (g) and turn the bar until the wires are taut, then fasten as before. The upright wires should be cut at the factory into suitable lengths. For a middle bench of ordinary height the first four rows on the south side should be four feet in length, the balance six inches longer. Those four feet long can also be used on the north bench. On a south bench overhead wires will not be neces- sary, and they had better be put in permanently on the north bench. In staking, wires are inserted about three inches in the soil and the same distance each w^ay from the i:)lant, and then tied to the top wdres, care being taken to keep 72 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. them in exact line and eyen at the top. This system of tying permits of spreading the plant so that all the space may be occupied, and still not have the foliage bunched, a great assistance in syringing thoroughly. It also leaves space between the rows for the free admis- sion of both air and sunlight, not only to the plants, but to the soil as well. The cost of fitting up a house one hundred by eight- een feet in this way, exclusive of labor, is about twenty- five dollars, but it has to be done but once, and posses- ses so many advantages that no one after trying it will regret the outlay. CHAPTER XVIII. MULCHING. The roses being staked and tied, are now ready for mulching. This should be composed of two-thirds well rotted cow manure, and one-third good soil. If the manure is two years old, all the better. Mix well and apply about an inch deep all over the surface. From this time on the soil should never be disturbed, as the plants will throw up a multitude of new roots to absorb this covering, and any weeds that appear after this should be carefully removed by hand. If all goes well, the earlier beds may be mulched again in seven or eight weeks, using, if the first is well spent, Mulching. 73 a little more, and it can also be made a little stronger now by the addition of a gallon of bone meal to a cubic yard of mulch. If the weather is bright and clear and the plants in perfect health, an inch and a half may be applied, but if from any cause, known or unknown, the plants seem sickly, they are in no better condition to absorb strong food than are either men or animals un- der the same conditions, and it should be withheld until such time as root action is better. Asa rule, it is not well to mulch heavily in Novem- ber or December, but on bright days during these months, if you are satisfied more nourishment is needed and that the plants are in a condition to receive it, a very small amount of fresher manure may be scattered very lightly here and there between the rows, allowing the same to be washed in from time to time as the plants are either watered or syringed. This is quicker than to apply food in liquid form, where but little can be used. I am no advocate of the use of green manure in quan- tity for this purpose at this season of the year. Besides being offensive, it is dangerous in the hands of any but experts, but during the months mentioned, when a heavy mulch cannot be safely applied, used very spar- ingly, it often helps sustain the plants until the dull cold months are passed. Another and heavier coat than ^he second one may usually be added by February, and this will be the last to be applied to such benches as are to be used for the 74 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. first planting for another season's work. Or if the plants are healthy and the soil full of working roots, liquid manure may be used quite freely. In addition to these applications, it will under some conditions be found advisable to use nitrate of soda in small quantity after the buds are formed and just be- fore maturing. Used thus, if the mulching has been on for some time, it will materially aid the bud to develop size, but its use at other times is inadvisable, because it tends to make a rapid soft growth, which in some varieties les- sens productiveness. CHAPTER XIX. WATERING. Watering and ventilating are no doubt the rocks on which many a man's hopes have been wrecked. Every- thing went beautifully as long as the sun shone brightly, but when November came with its grey, leaden sky, followed by December with its piercing cold, its storms, covering what of the glass frosts had not claimed, some- how, the plants seemed to grow less day by day, instead of pushing on vigorously as they had during the sum- mer and early fall. One day's mistake at this critical period, and your summer's work goes for naught. No set rules can be either laid down or followed in Watering. 75 regard to watering. It is largely a matter of intuition. A nameless something, that comes to the individual only through close observation and careful study, and then only as he develops daily an aptitude for grasping the situation. I have known those who performed this important work by rule. Every morning at just such an hour, cold or hot, wet or dry, syringing was done, and to save early firing as fall weather came on, all ventilation was closed early in the afternoon. It is un- necessary to add that these methods were not productive of pecuniary success. Even now, as I write (December loth), a letter of inquiry reaches me from a beginner wishing to know why the outer petals cling and de- cay on the buds in his house. A question easy of solu- tion Avithout seeing the conditions. Either too much water or too little air, or both combined and admin- istered injudiciously. One finds pen and ink to be poor and imperfect me- diums through which to convey to another the elements of success in this most difficult part of the work attend- ing artificial growth. I wish I could describe it, but it is beyond the power of pen or tongue. It is like the blind girl yearning for knowledge. Her delicate touch brings her in contact with form, and that form imparts to her mind language in embryo, until by the most per- sistent effort, and constant watchfulness, words, sen- tences, language, is at her command. So in this. To the delicate touch and watchful eye it comes as by intui- 76 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. tioD, and I cannot tell you better how a man comes into possession of this art, for art it is if ever there Avas one. Only general principles can be outlined. The applica- tion of them to existing circumstances must be largely at the discretion of the operator. During the summer and fall, the soil should be kept in a good growing condition, not dry, neither should it be saturated, for it must be remembered the soil is far from being filled with working roots, and in their ab- sence moisture cannot be as readily taken up as in the spring when these conditions are different. Examine carefully ever}^ bed each day and determine what it needs. If the soil has a "'growing touch," if you can close the hand upon it and upon opening have the soil retain its form as though it had been cast in a mould, syringe only, letting the quantity of water used be gov- erned by the character of the day. Never let your soil get in such a condition that you can squeeze water from it, not even a drop. This applies, of course, only to a soil that has become sodden from too much water, not to one recently Avatered. Occasionally let the benches get a little dry, then on a bright day Avater well, re- membering always, the more dense the foliage, and the more the plants are bearing, the greater Avill be the amount of moisture they Avill need and absorb. On every bright day the foliage should be well syringed. This should be done early in the day in order that it may have sufficient time to dry should it become cloudy Ventilation. 77 later on. If possible to avoid it, night should never find any dampness on the foliage, especially after the days begin to shorten and the nights to grow cool. As winter approaches, more care still must be exercis- ed, and if the day is dull, or moist, use no water unless careful examination reveals dry spots in the soil, and then sparingly. In a clear, bright winter day, examine all the benches thoroughly, giving to each in proportion to its need. Also use every opportunity when the sun is bright and the glass clear of snow and frost, to syr- inge well. If you succeed in tiding over the winter months and keep your roses in a healthy growing con- dition, as the sun grows stronger and the soil becomes full of roots, the quantity must be increased, and after the middle of February there is but little danger of giv- ing them too much on bright, airy days. CHAPTER XX. VENTILATION. It is a difficult matter to say which of the two, this or the former, constitutes the key stone upon which success depends. Certain it is they go hand in hand and require equally intelligent action. From the day the houses are planted until the roses are thrown out as worthless, all the air possible should be given. 78 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. Not that every day in this respect is like the one that preceded it, in which the same treatment is required, but the days are rare that ventilation in some form can- not be given. It must be borne in mind constantly that the health and vigor of your plants, and that their ability to af- ford you remuneration during the winter, is largely de- pendent upon the growth they make previous to No- vember. If the heat is extreme, throw wide open every ventilator, and these are the days when you reap the benefit of having a house stand by itself, with nothing joined to it to radiate heat or impede a free circulation of air through the doors in the walls. These ventila- tors should be shut at night unless the temperature is extremely high, and gives indications of continuing so through the night, but as long as possible leave roof ventilation open night and day. Also in seasons of extreme heat, while syringing freely, be careful not to saturate the soil, as it tends to soften and enfeeble the growth. As fall approaches, gradually lessen the amount of air at night, tempering it to the weather, but still leav- ing on all that the plants will bear without engender- ing mildew. If the wind is raw, shut the ventilators on the side from which it comes, keeping the other side open, but not allowing strong drafts of cool air to blow directly on the plants. Some times as early as August a cold rain will set in Ventilation. 79 for a day or two, and although the thermometer may not fall below ^ixty, the change from summer heat is very great. Whenever this occurs, no matter if it is in July, start a little circulation in your pipes, leaving the ventilators open sufficiently to prevent the temper- ature from rising unduly, and this will allow gathered moisture to escape. The great aim to be sought after is an even tempera- ture, and as often as the changes of the season rise above or fall below our standard, just so often must we employ every means in our power to counteract their extremes. The habit of closing the ventilators to save fuel, or the trouble of starting the fires, as well as the idea that no fire is needed until frosts come, has not yet wholly passed out of practice or belief, and it may truly be said to be the lazy man's economy. Not a season passes but what, somewhere, I enter just such houses as these. Could their owners but know that for every dollar saved in this way they were drawing on the future for ten, and perhaps hundreds of dollars, they would, if they desired to consult their own best interest, reverse the practice. Should the day be bright and warm and the night following so cool as to cause the thermometer to fall to 50 or 55, you will find in the morning that the foliage is covered with dew. To the novice this may seem a healthy condition, but a few nights of this, and in a 80 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. short time the leaves will begin to fall, the young red shoots will take on a "waterlogged," purplish hue, and the plants will have received a check from which they will not recover until spring, and it will require the ut- most skill to bring them through alive. I feel that too much stress cannot be laid upon this point, for the evil described is but one of several that arise from the same cause. Never leave your houses without starting a fire, if you are satisfied the night temperature will fall much below 60, leaving on at the same time a little air, the amount of which must be gov- erned by the outside temperature. As soon as the weather becomes cool enough to close the ventilators nights, every bright morning, as soon as the sun strikes the glass, open one side a little. In a half hour open another notch. Watch the day, the winds and the outside temperature, as well as that in the house, and continue to give more as the day advances. If the sun enters a cloud for any length of time and the air outside is keen, lower your ventila- tors in proportion until the sun appears again. Should the wind change and blow into the house, close that side and open the other at once. Do not think when you have once opened the ventilators your work for the day is over. During the winter months, scarcel}^ an hour will pass in which some change is not required, and ever remember that eternal vigilance is the price at which a paying crop is grown. Temi>eratike of Watki;. 81 CHAPTER XXI. THMrEKATlRE OF WATER. Bob Biirdette yays the man who wrote so charmingly of the invigorating and healtliful results attending the practice of rising early, taking a bath in ice water, a brisk walk and then breakfasting, drew entirely upon liis imagination for this unpopular advice; that, in fact, the author theorized for the benefit of otbcrs whil(> snugly ensconced in a warm bed, which he e performed, in cool weather, before the day is sufficient!}^ advanced, to gather such as have devel- oped during the night. Experience and careful watch- fulness will enable one to form an accurate opinion as to the amount a bud will develop between the hour it is cut, and the time it is to be placed on the market. For this reason the cutting of buds is work the pro- The Cutting of Buds. 87 prietor should either do himself or train some trusty young man to have charge of, and if possible it should be done b}^ one or two men, giving each charge of a section to which their personal attention is given, and for the care of which they are responsible. In this way every bush and every bud is known to the person in charge, and he will soon be able to keep them in mind and tell very nearly the hour in Avhich they will need to be gathered, thus avoiding a useless expenditure of time watching them, and loss as well from overdevelop- ment. No more should be cut in the morning than are ready, and the stems of these should be put in fresh cool water, and placed where they are to be kept with- out any unnecessary delay, and they should be gath- ered in the same manner throughout the day whenever they are matured. If the morning gathering is more than can be attended to by those in charge after work- ing hours commence, either train others to assist or have this work commenced earlier in the day, giving those Avho i)erform it an equal amount of time at its close. If your helpers are i)ermanently located with you, this will be found to l)e the most satisfactory sys- tem. If they are not, you must liave others in train- ing to till their place when they step out. This is not the only kind of work that cannot be performed by fixed rules, but perfect system must be mantained if we would make the most of our opi)ortunities. •SM How TO Grow Cut Flowers. Buds for distant shipment need to be cut closer than those for home use. This must also be performed upon tlie judgment of the operator. Time, distance, varie- ties, all have their bearing and must be considered, and while not demanding the close watchfulness of those cut for home use, they should be gathered at least three times on sunny days. This will bring them to matu- rity evenly, and the stems of those cut in the early part of the day Avill have absorbed water enough by evening to permit of their being forwarded to their destination. The demand for long foliage is now such, there is little danger of so many joints being left as in time to make the plants unduly tailor ''leggy," as it is some- tmies expressed, but there is danger of cutting back too far. A new break will be formed and another bud mature soonest from a leaf about midway between the bud and the union of its stem to the main plant, but if this is practiced every time a bud is cut, the plants will soon reach the glass, and the amount of foliage accom- panying the buds will be too small to satisfy the buyer. If cut back too far, the leaf remaining will be small and the new break slower in making its appearance, as well as less vigorous than it should be. For this reason a bud should not be severed without leaving two eyes, and three if the others are shown 1)y small or under- sized leaves. It is usually the case that the second leaf will throw a strong renewal of bud and foliage. If underbrush accumulates and has passed its useful- Tup: Cuttin*; of Buds. S',) ness, remove it; also varieties inclined to make a (jiian- tity of blind wood should oeeasionally be gone over and enough of it pruned out to jnvvent its bunching and making it difficult to reach all parts of the foliage with a syringe. At the same time, it must be borne in mind the plant must have an al)undance of foliage to breathe through, and that excessive trimming will impair its vitality if not destroy it altogether. This condition of things Avill sometimes be seen in Ameri- can Beauty. This rose does not incline to make side shoots as do many others, and will oftentimes throw several canes which come to matui-ity at about the same time. If these are all cut back sharp in order to ol^tain the length of stem which establishes their value, the plant is nearly robbed of its foliage, and unless water has been and is withheld at once, and the plant al- lowed to l)ecome soniewhat dry for a short time, the fibrous roots will cease to act, the foliage left will turn yellow, the plant sicken and randy recover in season to be of further use. As before mentioned, the cutting should be done by the proprietor or his foreman, whenever practicable; if not, then under their personal supervision, as it is of great importance that it Ijc performed at the right time and in the right way. This daily care also brings to one's attention constantl v, all the conditions pertaining to success — ventilation, watering, syringing, etc. It gives also opportunity for watchfulness, and if the per- 90 How TO (iRow Ct-t Flowkks. son is (juick to observe, this experience Avill soon make him as mucli of an adept in all tliat pertains to tlie health and life of plants as is the physician who studies the healtli of liis patient. CHAPTER XXIV. GRADING AND PACKING. In making up your shipment, whether for home or abroad, carefully assort them into two or three grades, as will best suit those to whom you sell, aiul you will usually find the first grade will sell, even if the market is dull, while those sent in by your less particular neigh- bor, unsorted, will often be seen at night Avhere they were placed in the morning. It is better to throw away all culls, short stems and imperfect flowers, than, by })lacing all togc^ther, so impair the quality that they must V)e sold for a lcox in order to keej) them, is a mistake, and it is worse than a mistake to "pickle" them for a prospective future demand. My attention was once called to the fact that a pot of roses was placed in the unused ash pit of a cool cel- lar. This ash pit connected with an old-fashioned chimney, up which a strong draft constantly passed. These roses were forgotten for several days, but to the surprise of all who saw. them, they were in perfect con- dition Avhen found, and greatly superior in size to what they were when placed there. This suggested to me that we might be pursuing a wrong practice in placing roses in a damp, cold box, 92 How TO Grow Cut Floweks. from which all light was excluded, and that the acci- dental discovery just given was the true method. Sub- sequent trials proved this to be correct, and for some years I have discarded the use of ice as a preservative, except in cases of shipment, having prepared a cellar for their storage in the following manner: Select a sheltered, shady location for a cellar, and if you do not wish to cover it with a packing room, let it be on the north side or end of some building, so that the sun will be excluded. Excavate to a sufficient depth, Imck or wall up the sides, provide drainage if inclined to be damp, and lay a brick flooi'. Let the cellar i)roject two feet beyond the end of the l)uilding, and over this place a roof of heavy glass, slanting the same sufficiently to shed any water that ma}" fall upon it. Arrange a shutter over this that can Ijc used or removed at will, giving light or excluding it in the bi'ighter part of the day. Make a Avooden Hue, eight or ten inches square, and let one end of it be near the ceiling of the cellar, from which it should rise from ten to twenty-five feet, according to circumstances. Ar- range the end that is in the cellar with a slide, so more or less of it can be utilized at will, and it will serve to carry off all dampness, keeping the air in the cellar clean and sweet. It may be unnecessary to add that this should be kept scrupulously clean, and should not be used for general purposes. Till-: riMosEKVATiON OF Flowers. 93 side ventilation should be provided by having one or more narrow windows. If shaded so the sun cannot strike it either morning or evening, it is Avell to have one on both the east and west sides. In the spring and fall these will be found very useful, as they can be thrown open in the early morning hour, before the sun changes the temperature, or they can be opened late in the evening and closed before sunrise, which will result in lowering the inside temperature several de- grees, and if they are kept closed through the day it will rise but little. This will require early rising, and is not the method for the man who wants to save all the work ])ossible, whether it conduces to success or not. In the extreme heat of summer it may be found ad- visable to lower the temperature by the use of ice. This will not often occur, and when it is necessary, see that it is as far from the blooms as possible, as it tends to l)leach all colored varieties. As the roses are cut and brought in, they should be set on the floor under the skylight, and most varieties will be found to improve Avith this treatment, and the next day they will be found to l)e in much better con- dition for retail sale than when placed there. It is a well-known fact in cities that the poor "fakir" who stores the flowers not desired for display under tlie sidewalk in some cool cellar, keeps his stock longer and in better condition than the tradesman who places 94 How TO (tkow Ct't Fi>o\vj:ks. them in high priced ice boxes. In the cooling ceUar, pain,> should be taken to prevent the ingress of warm air. The entrance should be used as little as possible during a warm day. CHAPTER XXVI. INSECT ENEMIES. From the day Adam found himself surrounded by "thorns and thistles,'' until the [»resent time, it would seem that everything l)eauti- ful in nature liad an enemy to either mar or destroy it, and the higher tlie degree of cultivation to which tliey are brought, the more numerous do these pests seem to become, and the m<)re malignant are their attacks. Insect enemies of all kinds have increased so rapidly of late, as to require the services of experts from Fig- 23. government stations to inves- tigate cause and cure, but not in all cases have they been able to point out the latter. Red Spider is one of the most ancient as well as ever present enemies of the rose. While very minute, it Insect Enemies. 95 can easily be seen Avith the naked eye, and viewed under a microscope, we cease to wonder at its ravages, when left in undisputed possession for any length of time. See Fig. 23. Their depredations will always be found to be on the under side of the leaves, and unless carefully Avatched for, their presence may not be known until the face of the leaf assumes a spotted ashen hue, caused Ijy their having destroyed the tissue, and in such cases they will be found in considerable quantity and of all sizes. That they should never be alio wed to gain a foothold, is the rule, but in practice it is not always accomplished. They thrive and multiply rapidly in a dry, hot atmos- phere, hence, from the time the cutting is made it should be the effort of the grower to prevent this condition. They cannot thrive in a moist atmosphere; for this rea- son it is desirable to frequently syringe lightly, during drv warm days, wetting, at the same time, all wood work of the benches, the walks and ground under- neath, being careful always to give the spray full on the under side of the leaves. To do this effectually, it will be necessary to syringe from different sides alternately, and if the middle bench is wide enough for a narrow walk in the center, see that a small hose is taken through it occasionally, lest they find lodgment there- You 'ma\^ set him down as a careless workman who lets this enemy gain the ascendancy. If, from any cause, they do become too numerous to conquer in the 96 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. usual way, to a bucket of Avater add a pint of very sharp vinegar and apply with a hand syringe to the under side of the leaves. An application every other day, for a week, Avill so reduce them in numbers, that at the expiration of that time a proper amount of syringing will keep them down. Another troublesome pest is tlie Rose Bug. Ardiiiigu'^ fallerli (Horn). This is supposed to have been im- ported from Europe some years since, and until its habits were studied and means taken to prevent its multiplying, was very destructive. The beetle is about one-half the size of the illustra- tion, of a very dark brown, almost black, color, and feeds upon the foliage. See Fig. 24. Its presence may be detected by small semi-circular pieces being taken from the edge of the leaves. It is ex- tremely shy, remaining hid in some safe sheltered place on the i)lant dur- Fig. 24. ing the day, seeking its food during the night. Hand picking, though slow and tedious, is a good wa3dn which to become acquainted with its habits, but if much of a foothold has been obtained by them the quicker way is to spread white cloth under the plants, then giving the plant several sharp jars, by striking it with the hand, they will usually be dislodged and fall on the cloth, from which they may be gathered and de- stroyed. A careful, persistent course like this is the only wav in which they can be exterminated where plants are Insect Enemies. 97 l)ermanent and remain for years in the same soil. It is not the beetle, however, -which destroys the plant, but its young while in the larva state, by feeding on tlie roots, and if they have been allowed to multiply undis- turbed they soon become numerous enough to destroy whole benches. See Fig. 25. It is the habit of the female beetle to deposit her eggs around the base of the plant, in crevices of the bark, or just under the soil. One writer recommends placing around the base of Fig. 25. the plants a piece of cloth in which they will seek to hide their eggs. This being removed every two weeks, thoroughly scalded and replaced, will help to exterminate them. So troublesome were these pests in some localities a few years since, that solid benches were almost entirely given up. Shallow ones were substi- tuted, and new soil and plants being used every year, so l)re vented their multiplying we now seldom hear of any one being troubled with them. They are fond of helio- trope, and old plants used for flowering from year to year are liable to become infested with tliem if they enter the houses. When houses are thoroughly cleaned every year, and all soil and plants removed, there is nothing to fear from them, but it is well to be always on the watch where any kinds of plants are retained from year to year, as they have been known to attack other species in the absence of those thev like best. 1)8 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. The Leaf Roller, though comparatively new under glass, is a great annoyance, and as yet no remedy has been discovered for it but hand picking. Its presence will be indicated by the rolling of a leaf, an examina- tion of which reveals a worm about a half an inch in length, enveloped by a web around which the leaf rolls. These greatly disfigure the foliage if allowed to remain, and I am told some growers find it necessary to make a thorough and systematic search for them every morn- ing. Protected as they are by both web and leaf, noth- ing in the way of liquids or fumes have any effect upon them. At some seasons of the year an insect known as Thrip is more or less troublesome. Prof. Baker, of Michigan Agricultural College, to whom we are greatl}^ indebted for the publicit}' he has given to his researches regard- ing the habits of injurious insects, says of this : " These belong to the family Thripidae, the members of which may be recognized by the following characterestics : They have four long, narrow membranous wings which are fringed with long hairs and sometimes have one or two longitudinal veins; in repose the wings lie along the back. The mouth parts resemble somewhat those of biting insects, and somewhat those of sucking insects. The bod}^ is long and narrow, the head being somewhat narrower than the thorax. The compound eyes are large, and there are three simple eyes. Some forms are wingless, in this species the male being wingless. They IxsECT Ene.mip:s. m are light yellow in color, very lively, being able to run and jum}) with great rapidity.'' See Fig. 26. There are several spe- cies of Thrips. Those ^^ troublesome to the rose belong to the genus Limothrips. These us- ually put in their ap- pearance, if at all, late in the spring, after the Pig^ 26. weather becomes Avarm, and the plants more or less debilitated. They are very lively, disappearing quickly at the base of the petals, when disturbed, among which they work, and often render worthless before the Inids mature enough to cut. Protected as they are among the unopened petals, it is a question whether any of the applications now in use are of any value in their extermination. None of the old remedies, so far as I know, will do it, and the vaporizing of tobacco is of such recent origin it is im- possible to say what its effect on them may be. Fortu- nately their appearance is at a season of the year when their depredations do not occasion the loss they would at an earlier date. Mealy Bugs are exceedingly annoying, but it is not often they attack roses if there are other plants at hand more congenial to their taste. Should their ])resence 100 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. be detected, look the plantt^ over and remove by hand any nests that may have been formed, as their web is water proof. Those scattered on the plants can be exterminated by a few applications of kerosene emul- sion. Different formulas have been given for this l)y various writers, the best of which I think is the follow- ing: Take equal parts of kerosene and fir tree oil; mix thie with water in the proportion of 3 per cent, to 97 of of water, and apply through a fine hand syringe in the morning an hour before syringing, at which time wash the foliage well, and no harm will follow. Applied in this manner two or three times in ten days, will rid the plants of them. One grower recommends one part (^f kerosene to thirty-two of water, the application to be made in the same manner. I have never been able to discover that tobacco had any efiect upon them ; in fact, they rather seem to like it than otherwise, and in this respect at least, lay claim to what is popularly supposed to be a luxury belonging to a higher order of beings. They especially love coleus, but for use on this plant the proportion of kerosene given should be lessened one third, or injury may result. Although at times the " Thousand Legged Worm '' appears in quantity, I know of but little harm arising from them save in their disturbance of the soil. If pres- ent on the benches, they will often enter a pot through the drainage, and the presence of several in a small pot will check root action. Both air slacked lime and fine IxsE( T Enemies. 101 tobacco sprinkled over the bench will kill those it reaches. I remember once filling a solid bed for roses, in the soil of which the germs must have been present in quan- tity, as, early in the spring multitudes appeared on the surface. These were most of them killed by covering the surface two inches thick with tobacco stems, leav- ing them there a week before being removed. Experiments were also made at that time with a so- lution of potash in water, with good results. Perhaps one of the most destructive enemies of the rose is the White Grub. We occasionally hear of whole benches being destroyed by these pests, often after the plants are one- third grown. If suitable care is taken in the preparation of the soil this should not occur. A season rarely passes in which some are not found, and it is well to have a few plants grown in pots to a good^ size, ^\ith which to replace such as may be de- stroyed. Keep these shifted and in good growing con- dition so that as little time may be lost as possible if it is necessary to use them. If some morning you notice a plant wilting while all around it are doing well, you may be pretty sure the roots have been severed by this grub. Remove the plant and search every inch of soil around it until the grub is found, or in a few days an- other will succuml) to its ravages. When present in a bench there is no other way of stopping their w.ork, but the better wav is not to let them enter the house. As 102 How TO Grow Cut Flowers is well known, they are nearly always present in sod, and sometimes when the supply has run short and I have been obliged to cut some just before planting, it has been thoroughly examined and if any were found every portion of it has been carefully handled and all the grubs destroyed. This is slow work and should he avoided, but it must be done where soil is for any reason provided late in the season, or a whole crop may be ruined. Other means of prevention will be found under the head of "The Preparation of Soil." It is doubtful if anything in the line of insect ene- mies has ever caused more anxiety to rose growers, where they have obtained a strong foothold, than has the insect which causes what is known as Club Root. See Fig. 27. Evidently this is no new disease, it having been ob- served in various species of plants, and occasionally roses have been subject to it in individual cases. It is the cause that is new, and for its discovery we are in- debted, I believe, to Prof. Halstead, of New Jersey, and the illustration of it used here is the same as used by him in his description of it in a recent number of the A merican Florist. He found the cause to be a worm formed somewhat like an eel, and invisible to the naked eye. The knots, or lobes, on the roots are their house, and here they live and multiply. The writer remembers to have seen wliat he now believes to have been the same thing, many Fig. 27. 104 How TO Gijow Cut Flowkijs. years ago, and little doubt exists in his mind ])in that their presenee at that time was due to the use of manure which came from the eattle pens of a distillery, although the manure was two years old when jipplied. In(iuiries have been heard for several years from one and another as to what was the cause of the trouble, but not until quite recently has it become so serious as to demand special investigation, some- groAvers having lost whole houses through its ravages within a year or two. When a plant is seriously attacked by club root, the growth ceases, or at least is very feeble ; the foliage turns a light yellowish green, similar to a plant when it is said to Ix^ " water logged.'' The edges of the leaves in some cases seem to burn, turn brown and dry up ; in fact, the ]:>lant looks, as one writer expresses it, '' as though it had the grippe." Such a plant, if lifted, will show more or less of these knotty roots. Should a majority of the plants in a bed become infested, it will be better to remove and destroy both them and the soil they wen^ in by fire at once, as there is no known remedy at present which will kill them and at the same time restore life and vigor to the plants. These are supposed to be brought into the houses in the summer, either liy being present in the soil or manure, or both, and as it is ap- parent no remedy will easily be found to cure, it seems to me attention should be turned to preventive meas- ures. Some have advocated heating the soil. This is not practicable, as not only the insect, but the life of the lN." the coming season, if they are located in sections where the elements will come to their aid. This I know will entail (piite an additional amount of work, Init it seems to lie a case similar to 106 How TO Grow Cut Flowkrs. that of a man with a gangrenous limb, — the choice is to part with either limb or life. So in this, as it seems to me, the most serious matter connected Avith rose grow- ing that has ever come to onr knowledge, the cause must be overcome, or the business abandoned where they have taken })ossession. Another precautionary measure is, never to propa- gate from any plants which have become infested with this disease, even in the least. It is my belief that wherever these nematoids are present in the roots, even if only one cell has been Ibrmed, their power to multiply and spread to other roots on the same plant must be accomplished through the circulation of the sap of the plant. So very minute are their eggs they may be conveyed to any part of the plant through this circulating medium. Sever a cut- ting containing any of these eggs, root it, and what as- surance is there that it will not be the home of a future colony. Some in vestigations right along this line, made l\v one interested in them, were recently witnessed by the writer. The rooted cutting of a rose was the sul)- ject. This was rooted in clean sand which had been taken from a bank fifteen feet below the surface. The callus was reduced to pulp, put under a powerful mi- croscope, and in it could be seen distinctly two living nematoids. Under a lens of 300 diameters, these ap- peared to be about -^^ of an inch in length. Where did th(\v come from, unless the germs were present in the Insect Enemies. 107 sap, and descended to tlie callus as that grew, where they developed into the forms revealed by the micro- scope? Evidently there is still opportunity, as well as a great call, for the further study of this much to be dreaded pest. Green Hy is the name by which the most common of all insects is famililarly known, but Prof. Baker denom- inates it " The Rose Plant Louse." Its method of attack is like that of the spider, puncturing the plant and ab- sorbing its juices. Although not as dangerous an ene- my of the rose as many already described, because it can more easily be kept at bay, still from September to May it will be found ever present if measures are not taken to prevent it. Its power of reproduction almost passes belief. Prof. Baker tells us, "one single louse might have in one summer six thousand million descendants." The danger to be apprehended from them is from neglect. If this occurs for a short time, even a few days, some of them will have attained a size and strength which makes it difficult to kill them, while in number, the smaller ones will be legion. There is no excuse whatever for the person who allows them to attain any size, or even to be seen. It is sim- ple neglect on the part of the one in charge, where this state of things exists, as there are many devices for their prevention. 108 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. CHAPTER XXVII. INSECT EXTERMINATORS. Tobacco smoke has been the most common agent used in the destruction of insect life, but to fumigate houses of cut flowers so injures some varieties, other means of applying it have been sought that would accomplish the same result without damage to delicate blooms. Scattering dry stems through the walks or under the benches will do it, but to this there are two objections. The untidy appearance the houses present, and the cost, if stems have to be purchased, for to do it effectually in this way, requires large quantities. Others advocate the use of tobacco dust sprinkled on the foliage, but for roses this is impracticable on account of the frequent syringing required. Some who heat by steam have tried evaporating liquid tobacco in galvanized iron troughs, and strongly recommend this method. Not heating with steam my- self, I have not tried and cannot speak of it from ex- perience. I have tried the same plan on hot water pipes, but found they were not hot enough to evaporate the liquid. When steam is used, this objection does not prevail, but in the early fall and late spring, those who have used it, tell me other means must be adopted, as it raises the temperature of the houses too high, un- less -special pipes are arranged for this purpose and radiation from them prevented. At all seasons of the year, when this objection does not exist, it is doubtless I N SK ( "I- K XT E KM 1 N ATORS. 109 the most simple way, and one making the least troul:)le. For a lioiise 100x18, four troughs are recommended. Fig. 27. In order not to have any li(|uid remain unevaporated, they may l)e constructed as sliown in fig. 27. A size three feet long by four inches deep and wide, will he sufficient. To prevent them from leaking where the pipe passes through the ends, make a running thread on each jnece thus running through, say six inches long, and this will admit of using a rubber packing, and a nut on each side of the galvanized iron, render- ing it perfectly tight, and capable of resisting any ex- pansion or contraction there may be in the pipe. If the extract of tobacco is evaporated in these twice a week, scarcely a fly will be seen, provided they are not allowed to multiply and become mature before it is ai)i>lied. Another i)lan that is being used in some 110 How TO Grow Cut Floweks. establishments is, to have two or more half barrels filled with dry stems and placed in the south walk about thirty feet apart. A steam jet is then conveyed to each through pipes arranged for the purpose, the steam be- ing discharged near the bottom of the barrel; this lib- erates the nicotine and the air of the house becomes impregnated with it. I have seen this in operation and think well of it where stems can be obtained cheaply, al- though the labor attending it is much more than where extract is evaporated in a somewhat similar manner. The mingling of a high strength of tobacco extract with steam, and diffusing it through the house in that form, is comparatively new, but is to be commended for the following reasons: Its cleanliness; no dust or litter attend its distribution; no odor remains to of- fend those to whom it is disagreeable; the rapidity with which it can be administered, saving much valuable time; its reasonable cost. Observations made last season were so favorable, I went to the expense of a complete outfit in September, and am now using it with great satisfaction. Finding it necessary to change the boiler that tempered the water used, one was set that can be changed at will from that purpose to that of raising the amount of steam neces- sary for vaporizing the tobacco. To all those who are heating by steam, no change will be necessary, save to supply the pipe and fixtures needed, and I think on all large places heated by water the time is not far distant Insect Exterminators. Ill EEyCRIPTION. A— Cylinder. B— Steam from boiler. C— Main distributing pipe. D— Water glass. K__Valve for draining cylinder. F— Valve for distributing va- por. G, I and K— Valves. ij T-*pt cock. J _ Opening for supplying ex- tract to cylinder. 112 How TO (iRow Cut Fj.oweks. when it will be found to be best to add a power boiler for this and other purposes. The illustration ( Fig. 28) shows all pipes necessary saving those leading into the house through which the vapor is discharged. These may be of three-fourths inch gas pipe, and after connecting with the main and plac- ing a cut of!" valve at some convenient point, drop to where they are to be carried into the house. The point where it enters should be under and near the south side of a middle bench. If the house is 100 feet in length, have three openings in the pipe for the liberation of the vapor; the first one twenty feet fi^om where the pipe enters the house, the second in the centre, and the third within twenty feet of the extreme end, and when in use this last may Fig. 29. be left fully open. 8ee Fig. 29. The opening in the centre should be half-inch, while that nearest the main feed should notbe over three-eighths. These variations in the size of the discharge Avill materially assist in the equalization of the distribution, and if so arranged as to discharge in a straight line with the pipe, no harm will ensue from burning or scalding either root or foliage. If it is desired to use this line of pipe for any other Insect Extek.minators. Ho purj^ose, such as the burning of sul^jhur in early fall, it will be necessary to equip each disclmrge with \alves, and, although thi^ adds to the expense, it Avill, I think, Ijc found to be the best way. One of the objects I had in view when thinking of adopting this system, was the suppression of mildew in the (^arly fall l)y use of the same set of pipes. In laying these pipes, raise the main distributing one to the height wanted; then, from that point to the ex- treme end of the discharge pipe, let the fall be gradual, in order that no condensation may ever remain in them. All the mains through which the vapor passes, should be well protected with asbestos, or some other covering, as it is very important in the line of economy, that no condensation occurs while the vapor is being used. It is best to so arrange the pijjcs as to he able to va- porize the houses in blocks of four or eight. For the former number, the main from the cylinder, as avcU as the feed from the boiler, should be of one and a quarter inch pipe, all the other connections al)out the cylinder may be of inch if preferred. If it is desired to vaporize eight at once, one and three-fourths inch mains should l)e used. Of strong manufactured extraet, one half pint is al- lowed to a house of 100 feet. If four houses are to be vaporized, place one quart of extiact in cylinder A by means of a funnel at J, after Avhich replace the plug or whatever is used for closing the aperture. If it is de- 114 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. sired, a supply tank can l)e cunnected with the cylinder at J and operated by a valve, but the lirst method is pre- ferable and is little trouble, and one then knows just the amount used. With all valves (tlosed except the four three-quarter ones leading direct from the main to the different housf^s, as well as those through Avhieh the va- por passes into the houses from the same sized pipe, open the one at K, examining l)y pet cock If if there is any condensation in the feed l>ipe. If not, close pet cock and open valve (I, winch will admit steam to the cylin- der A, which it will 1111 and soon 1)e ready for disti"il)U- tion. To avoid the condensation of the vai)or, it is necessary that all i)ii>es used for its distribution should be hot when it is admitted to them. T^y closing now for a short time valve (J and ojiening valve I, dii'cct steam from the boiler will accomplish this, and as soon as steam is dischai'gcd from the extreme vnd of the dis- tributing pipes, clos(^ valve I, open valve G, also in a moment after, valve F, and the va})()r will at once be distributed through the liouses. From thi'ce to five minutes will be rerpiired to emj)ty the cylinder of nico- tine. Steam then l^eing shut out of the cylinder by closing valve (J, all ])i"essure will soon pass off into the main through \alve F. ^\'hen tliis is accomplished, another (piart niay be supplied through point J, and the same process repeated for the next four houses, taking care to close the valves to those alread}' finislied, and opening those that are to receive the next treatment. In.sect Exterminatohs. 11-') If eight houses are to l)e vaporized at once, instead of four, the process is the same except that double the amount of extract must be sup})lied to the cylinder. With the price of extract at ^i.oO per gallon, the cost of material will be about 10 cents per house. To avoid condensation and make quick work, al)out fift}^ pounds steam pressure should be indicated and maintained until through, ai.d whatever is used for a cylinder it should be strong enough to stand that amount of pressure. I am using, at present, a common range boiler, three and one-half feet in length by one in diameter, but before being set up it should be tested by means of either steam or h^Tlraulic pressure. Tlie thing to be most guarded against, is the conden- sation of the steam and conse([uent weakening of the extract, as well as the condensation of the vapor itself while being applied. If the latter occurs, the extract Avill dri}) from the end of the distributing pipe, Avhile it should all be sent] into the house mingled with the steam. No water should ever be allowed to enter the cylinder with the extract, and when through, valve E should be opened and any sediment remaining washed out, otherwise stoppage, may occur in either the feeds to the glass or the pet cock H. Another thing to be avoided is entrance to a house while the })rocess is going on. or for a short time after the vapor has been applied as the nicotine sometimes affects either the eyes or stomach unpleasantly. The 116 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. writer had occai^ion to niii-se a pair of sore eyes for two Aveeks after his first experiment, the temptation being ver}' great at that time to see if it was strong enough to accomplish what was intended. It should be applied at a time when all ventilation can be dispensed with. If a night fireman is employed, and it will not interfere with the usual circulation, it is well to do it early in the morning, an hour or more before working hours com- mence. It can also be done in the evening, and the moisture seen upon the leaves after its use very soon disappears and no harm seems to arise from it. I con- sider the morning hour, however, fai' i)referable during the winter months, while in the fall and early spring it will be found more convenient to attend to it after work has ceased, and the sun disappeared. Two applications a week, and no fiy need ever De seen, nor have any who have used it ever noticed any injurious effects either on foliage or flower, so far as I am able to learn. If applied only once a week, one pint to a house will be found necessary, which Avill make the cost about twenty cents. The tobacco extract used is what is known as "Rose Leaf." This is a highl}^ concentrated article, and may also be used where the heating system is hot water, in the following manner : "Apply the extract pure on the pipes when they are hot, using an ordinary paint brush for the purpose. The heat from the pipes will soon evaporate the moist- Inject Extekminatoks 117 ure in the extract, leaving more or le.sy of a dry deposit on the pipes. This should l)e moistened with water the next day and on the following day renewed with pure extract. Repeat this general programme as necessary, depending of course upon the condition of the houses as to freedom from insects. In exceptional cases it may be necessary to i)Ut the })ure extract on the pipes every day for two or three days, but the exact line of proced- ure in these cases of exception can, of course, only l)e determined by the personal judgment of the party in charge of the house." There is still another method very convenient on a small place, and exceedingly handy when it is desired to treat only a few houses. Its work is thorough when used for green fly, but has no perceptible effect on young scale, spider or mealy bug, as claimed by some for va- porized extract. It also possesses the merit of great simplicity. Procure three oil stoves having a four-inch burner. Place one in the south walk of a hundred foot house, and the others within twenty feet of either end. Take two and one-half pounds of prepared tobacco dust and divide into three parts. A very convenient dish for holding this is a common tin pie plate. Give each its proportion, place the plates on top of the stoves and turn up the flame, but not enough to have it smoke, and leave until consumed, which should take about half an hour. This process precipitates the killing proper- ties of the tobacco with verv little smoke. For a house 118 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. longer than one lumdred feet, more stoves should he used, as, at a cost of seventy-nine cents each, it is not economy to spend time watching and moving one to all parts of the house. The tohacco can l)e obtained of any one keeping florists' supplies, at a cost of al)out four cents i)er pound, and if used twice a week, either at night or on cloudy daj^s, no green Hy will l)e seen. If one or two tablespoonfuls of tobacco extract are added to the portion of fine tol)acco that is directly over the flame of the lamp, it will add to the strength, and the killing i)roperties will ])e greatly increased. If througli neglect the fly has become old and strong, this for a flrst appplication is very cfFective, and it will also destroy such " thousand legged'' worms as chance to he out of the soil. This remedy, while simple and efl'ectivc. cannot be used on such varieties of rose buds :is arc injured i)y the use of strong tobacco smoke. For roses grown in the open air. Ellwangcr recom- mends spraying them with c'.car water, dusting them afterwards with powderc(l white hellebore. DlSEAr^ES OF THE RoSE. 110 CHAPTER XXVin. DISEASES OF THE EOSE. The common saying that "Death hn-es a shining mark"' we hnd exemplitied in vegetable, as well as physical life, and while many strong plants whieli \)Yi)- duee beautiful flowers seem tu l)e in a measure exempt, the Queen of all is very susceptible to many forms, among which the most nnnmon is mildew. Tliis is a fungoid growtli and is produced by sudden changes in the atmosphei-e. or drafts of air. As wdth man or beast, the power of resistance to disease which a plant is able to i)Ut forth, is in proportion to its state of liealtli and vigor. Pampered, sickly plants that have been poorly ven- tilated or overfed, are fit subjects for any Ibrm of dis- ease, and especially liable to this. The flrst great preventative is a sturdy, hardy growth. An abundance of air from the time the plant has its flrst shift, is what makes it sturdy. I do not mean that thev should be exposed to drafts of cool air, but that if accustouKMl to receive all the air possible wdthout this exposure, thev will be in condition to withstand the changes that come with the varying seasons. Some roses are much more susceptible to mildew than others, and unfortunately they are our most valued varieties and cannot be dispensed with. With the ad- vent of early fall the trouble begins, and unless the ut- most care is given to methods of ventilation, a little fire 120 How TO (tkow Cut Flowers. started to drive out dampness on a wet day, or temper sudden atmospheric changes, before one is aware of it, the seeds of mildcAv are sown and the battle with it must commence at once lest it gain a foothold, and if this occurs as late as October and is not conquered imme- diately, nine times out often all profit from that house is gone for the season. Both Mermet and Bride are pecu- liarly susceptible to this fungus, and no matter how fine the buds may be, if the beauty of the foliage is destroyed by this unsightly discoloration, they are practically valueless for sale as cut flowers. There is no season of the year in which plants require to be so closely guarded against mildew as during the months of September and October. After the weather becomes cool enough for fires to be regularly maintained, it is much easier to prevent its appearance. The meth- ods of prevention or cure vary with different growers, but the basis of nearly all remedies is sulphur in some form. An occasional painting of the flow pipe after fires are started, with a wash made of sulphur and water with enough water slacked lime to hold it together — say one-tenth — will keep it in check. Another method is to thicken linseed oil with sulphur, and apply in the same way. To either prevent or conquer before this time, the same method may be emplo3^ed through the medium of the pipe used for vaporizing. Extend tliis pipe temporarily nearly to the end of the house, put on an ell, raise from it another piece to such a point Disease."? of the Rose. 121 a^; it is convenient to carry through tlie end of the house. Cap this end with a pet cock or valve, leaving the same partially open for the discharge of condensa- tion. This pipe may he painted as already described with the sulphur wash, or two small galvanized iron troughs as seen on page 109 can be permanently placed on this pipe, a small qnantity of the wash evaporated from them, Avhile the balance of the i>ipe is wrap})ed to prevent radiation of heat when not wanted in the house. In this way, all houses needing it can be served at once by turning the steam into the vaporizing main. Two applications a week will in most cases pre- vent its gaining a. foothold. \'ai'ious formulas are also recommended by those who liave used them. After preparing them they are applied to the foliage in the form of a spray. The oldest of these is the one given by Peter Henderson many years since. "Boil o pounds of sulphur and ?> pounds of lime in 6 gallons of water until it is reduced to 2 gallons ; allow the liquid to settle until it becomes clear, then put it in ajar, or bottle it for use. Use one gill of this to 5 gallons of Avater and apply to the foliage by means of a syringe." To this there are two objections. It can not be ])Y0- cured ready for use, and appliances for compounding it are not always at hand. Another ol>jection is, no matter how carefully the liquid is poured off after l)oil- ing, the lime in it will whiten and thus greatly disfigure the foliage, makinu' the buds unsalable. 122 How TO riRow Cut Flowers. Mr. Richard Bagg gives the following, which is more easily prepared and leaves no discoloration : '' Put a three incli pot full of Hour of sulphur into an earthen vessel, to which add water sufficient to form it into a paste, being careful to have all the sulphur wet. To this add an equal amount of broken caustic potash, stir again and it will rapidly assume an orange brown color, become very hot and turn liquid. Add now wa- ter enough to make a quart, bottle, and it is ready for use. A desert spoonful to a gallon of water used in the form of a spray every day will soon cure ; l)ut, as a pre- ventive, use once, twice or three times a week, accord- ing to the weather." Mr. H. M. Wheeler recommends the following: "Take one pound of sulphur, one of slacked lime, three-fourths of an ounce of carbolic acid, add two gal- lons of water and boil to one gallon. Cork well and set away for use. Use a two and a half inch pot full to five gallons of Avater. Keep the ventilators down two or tln'ce hours after application to retain the fumes. We use this twice a week, not only as a cure, but a pre- ventive. " The objection to this, if there is any, is in the line of that of Henderson's. Prof. Maynard of Ma,ssachusetts says : " In the fall of the year I find the us: of a small ker- osene stove the most convenient form in which to ap- l»ly sulphur; the same being put in a kettle and boiled ])isEAsi:,>< OK THE Rose. 123 for a few liours twice a week. The only precaution is to use no more heat than is sufiicient to boil the suli)hur, for should it catch fire it would damage the plants." Mr. Sewall Fischer recommends the use of liyposul- phite of sodn, in tlie proportion of half an ounce to a gallon (^f water. Still another formula, from Mr. R. 8. Hallidav, is as follows: " I would recommend the use of sulphuret of potassi- um in i)lace of tlour of sulphur, in the proportion of two ounces to twenty-four gallons of water. Syringe Avith tlie mixture once in two weeks, or oftener if you see any signs of the fungus appearing. I liave also found it a remedy for black spot." Dry sul})hur applied directly to the foliage by means of a bellows or by beating it from a cheese cloth bag, is also used by many, and after applying, the house is kept closed for an hour and the temperature allowed to rise to about 100°. One objection to the various washes lies in the fact that if used too strong, they will cause the foliage to drop, while in plants badly affected, the wash needs to be used thoroughly, and this necessitates incurring some risk. If sulphur is used in the dry state and care is not taken to distribute evenly and in small quantit}", the result sought will not be accomplished, more will be required, which the subsequent syringing will carry to the soil. 124 How TO Grow C'ut Flowers. I do not remember to have seen harm from this, but it should be avoided as mucli as possible on general prin- ciples, for certainly no one would recommend the use of sulphur in the soil. I have known of several, belonging to the class of those who think '' if little is good, more is better," who have tried burning the pure article on a hot brick, or by throwing some among the tobacco while fumigating, thinking thus to relieve the plants of the fungus. They succeeded, and were able to carry out both fungus and leaves at the same time. This cannot occur when ap- plied to the flow pipes as a wash, and the fumes pro- duced in this way accomplish the purpose at a mini- mum of risk. Black spot is an- other fungoid dis- ease. Prof. Windle, of Purdue Univer- sit3\ illustrated an article upon this subject, with views ^ie. 30. of the disease ob- tained through the use of the microscope, and I am in- debted to him for the illustrations used here. This fungus appears to the naked eye like black spots on the surface of the leaves as seen in fig. 80. The growth is rapid and soon assumes form under the glass as seen in fig. 31. Prof. Seymour tells us tlicse throw oft s})ores "Diseases of the TvOse. 125 which float in the air and impregnate healthy tissues. See Fig. 32. Fig. 31. The reason why some varieties are more liable to its ravages than others, is not easy of explanation. That it is oftener present in teas containing an admixture of hybrid blood is unquestioned, and would seem to confirm the theory of some that it is engen- dered by such crosses. I am more inclined to think it is transmitted, and that for some reason unknown to us, the cross is much more subject to it than is the parent hybrid. It is rarely seen in a true tea rose unless it has been subjected to contagious influences, while many of the hybrids cannot be grown in the open air on account ot its ravages. Of the many hybrid teas which have appeared within the last ten years and have been given a trial, none re- 12G How TO (Jiiow Cut Flowers. main in general use save La France, and Ijotli lliis and American Beauty need careful handlinu" in order to keep the disease at bay. It will have been noticed by those who grow byljrids in the open air, that usually they show comparatively little tendency to take on the disease until late summer or early autumn, then with the heavy dews, cool nights and scorching sun at midday it develops rapidly, oft- times stripping the plants of foliage in a few days. The same conditions, though in less severe form, will have the some efiect on both La France and Beauty under glass. I have seen a house of the former ruined in three days, b}^ an over watered bench being exposed for a short time to a sudden change of temperature, though the themometer did not fall below fift}'. Tliis teaches us that the conditions producing this result must be avoided. Another means of prevention is perfect clean- liness. Leaves showing the disease should be removed and burned as fast as they appear, thus preventing the spores from maturing and spreading. Having been careful to observe the preventives mentioned, I have not had a serious case of spot for some years, conse- quently have had no occasion to prove the remedies others have advocated, but enumerate them here for the benefit of any who desire to give them a trial. Jean Sisley recommends spraying the foliage with a solution of salt water, in the proportion of six pounds of salt to twenty-four gallons of vrater. Cultural Notes. TiT Mr. Halliday finds the remedy he gives for mildew, as found on page 123, beneticial for this also, while both Mr. Wheeler and Mr. Fisher recommend their com- pound for this form of fungus. In relation to its cure Prof. Halstead says: ''This trouble may be held in check by the carbonate of cop- j)er compound, using three ounces of carbonate of cop- per, one quart of ammonia and fifty gallons of water. The spraying should be done once a week, using a hose and nozzle that gives a fine spray. The point should be to wet every part of the plant and yet not to drench it." After giving the whole matter careful study, I have come to the conclusion that wherever it is met with in an advanced stage, it is more the fault of the grower than the plant — that is, the laws governing a healthy plant growth have not been observed, thus inviting this disease to fasten upon an impaired vitality, no matter which of the various causes producing that state of things has been the medium through which the disease has been invited. CTlAPTEPv XXIX. FOKCING VARIKTIES— CULTURAL NOTES. The number of forcing varieties suitable for contin- uous winte'r flowering, is exceedingly limited, ^hiny varieties which are simply grand under glass in sum- 128 How TO Grow Ct't Flowers. mer, are utterly worthless for winter work, and the re- verse is also true of some of our best winter bloomers. Perle des Jardins undoubtedly stands at the head of the list as an all the year around rose, and still, if not proper- ly treated, or if the weather is for a long time unfavor- able during the winter months, its buds will be more or less imperfect. The conditions being favorable, and particularly the nights being cool, the most perfect specimens are produced in the month of October, and again in March on plants that were set late, and have bloomed lightly previous to that date, and this will occur Avithout any specially prepared soil. To insure paying results during November, December and Jan- uary, while the days are shortest and often sunless, is a conundrum that has confronted many a grower. I am satisfied so-called " bullheads " may be attributed large- ly to four causes: Too heavy soil, excessive feed, a low temperature, absence of sun heat. All these influences have a direct bearing, and singly or combined, each plays a part in producing unsatis- factory results. It can be accepted as a fixed rule, that all varieties which do well in summer heat, need a higher tempera- ture in winter than the average standard. Applying this to Perle, we find it does not require as high a degree of heat in summer to bring it to perfection, as do Mad. Margottin, Etoile de Lyon and others that might be mentioned. From this Ave reason that the degree of CuLTTRAL Notes. 129 temperature given it should be above the average, but still under the maximum. Repeated trials have con- vinced me that in my soil the night temperature best suited to Perle during the three dark months, is 62°, and prefer 63° to 60° or 61°. Allusion has previously been made to a trial of this rose in a heavy soil, and the unfavorable result that followed. If your soil is very heavy and you have not the means of lightening it, the temperature will need to be some higher, 63° to 65°. A light loam is undoubtedly the best, and if that is not at hand, reduce the texture of your soil by the addition of one-fourth clean sand. Let the compost used be old and well decomposed. Mix all thoroughly by turning several times before bringing into the house. I would not advise the use of bone meal for this variety except in a very small quantity, until Januar}', being careful during December not to mulch or feed heavily. From the time the buds are Avanted until October, the quality of the buds will be greatly enhanced by disbud- ding all laterals, but after this date this should not be practiced, as throwing all the sap to the centre bud tends to malform it. On the contrary, from this time until spring, the buds should be watched as they form, and if the centre one on the strong shoots shows any tendency to curve or cling its petals, it should be re- moved at once, thus giving the strength of the plant to the development of laterals, which will usually form fine buds. With the turn of the season and strong 130 How TO Grow Cut Flovv'ers. sunlight, liberal treatment may be used with safety and disbudding resumed. As this is really the only yellow rose that can be relied upon for winter work at present, a vacancy occurs and a want is felt if it is not in good form. A careful observance of the foregoing suggestions, to- gether with an intelligent application of general cul- tural treatment, and I do not think any grower will have cause to complain that this rose does not pay him. Meteor is one of the roses requiring a high summer temperature to develop it perfectly, and possesses some characteristics which render it almost indispensable. It is the only rose of its color available during the win- ter months. Its habit of throwing single terminal buds instead of clusters is in its favor, while the length of stem and foliage that can be given with each bud ma- terially increases its Value for retailing. It revels in a temperature of sixty-eight to seventy and will need more heat by day than others. Still, air must be given, and in sufficient quantity to keep the house pure and sweet. It is very sensitive to sudden changes and takes on mildew easily, hence careful watch is necessary. During the short days, should any of the canes throw buds in cluster form, remove the center one as soon as it forms. Spider, also, quickly gains a foothold with this variety, not that it is a favorite, and toothsome above all others, but on account of the higher temperature, coup- led with the tendency the larger leaves have to cup CuLTiKAL Notes. I'M slightly, making it necessary to be careful about syring- ing, and to see that all under surfaces are reached. It is a rose that cannot be spared, and should be found in every collection where enough are grown to be able to give it a house by itself, or in connection with another requiring the same amount of heat, and even where this cannot be done, those growing for their own retail trade, will find it to add greath* to their assortment if given a warm corner in one of their houses. Catherine Mermet, all things considered, has been, u}) to the present time, the leading favorite in pink. Its habit of bleaching in dark weather is against it, l)ut when in perfect form and color, nothing of this shade, in the opinion of many, approaches it in beauty. Unlike the preceding rose, this requires a tempera- ture below the average, and is practically worthless six months in the year, because it cannot be grown cool enough. For this reason diligence should be exercised to have it in good producing form by the last of Octo- ber, and this necessitates early planting, .as well as constant care. It is not reasonable to expect a large cut of buds during the winter, unless there is a corres- pondingly large and strong plant from which to grow them. Spring work and sales often reach into the sum- mer months, retarding both shifting and planting. The loss resulting, is noticeable in this variety more than in some others, owing to the limited time during whicli the buds mature perfectly; hence it is of the utmost 132 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. importance they should be planted early, in order that they may have a large amount of bud producing wood by the last week in October. As previously stated, the soil best adapted to the* growth of Mermet is a stiff loam with little if any admix- ture of sand. They are strong feeders, and will repay anything administered to them intelligently. When a new growth is forming, and just before the buds set, the tendency to go blind can be controlled to a certain ex- tent, by applying a little less water to the roots for a few days, but syringe the foliage as usual. Neither should stimulants of any kind be given in this stage — either apply when the breaks are commencing, or else after the buds are set. Quality is always produced at the expense of quantity, and if large, perfect buds are desired, the night temperature should not be above tifty-five, and if it occasionally falls to fifty or fifty- two, no harm will result, providing the plants are hardy and if sufficient air is given to keep the day tempera- ture well in hand. This rose is more liable to mildew than some of the other teas, and requires constant watchfulness. I have seen the entire crop for the two best paying months in the year, utterly ruined by one day's carelessness. Some one has said, "Success in this business depends upon constant watchfulness every moment, every hour, twenty-four hours each day and three hundred and six- ty-five days in the j^ear," and if true of any variety, it is doubly so of this. Cultural Notes. 1o?> For a fancy wliite, nothing as yet equals the Bride — Victoria being of too recent introduction to have been able to prove her claim to first place. As the Bride is a sport from Mermet, partaking of all the characteristics of that plant, save in color, conditions suitable to the development of the latter are applicable to this also. We have another useful white in Niphetos, and this is the most prolific rose in cultivation, as well as the purest white. It is not a strong grower, and if used on its own roots should be planted on a south bench near the glass. Purchasers sometimes find fault because this is not as large as stronger growing varieties bought at the same price. This cannot be expected unless the plants have had one or two more months in which to grow than their more vigorous companions. For this reason this is another variety requiring time in which to make flowering wood, and should be made from strong cuttings, as early in the year as the wood is in prime condition. If they attain good size in the bench, it will not pay to flower them the second season. If planted late and they have not grown too large, they may, per- haps, do good work the second year, if one cannot ob- tain new and better stock. The only way promising success, if they are to be carried over, is to withhold water from them in May until the wood is ripened, prune them back, take up, shake out all the soil, and pot in as small pots as will well contain the roots. Set in a shaded place outside, and as soon as thev have 134 How TO Grow Cut Fi.owers. formed roots that will hold the ball together give one shift, move to a sunny place, and when well established plant where they are to remain for the winter. Far finer buds can be obtained by budding as described on page 61, (Roses for Summer), the ground where the stocks are to remain having been excavated to a good depth, drainage sui)plied, and a quantity of rich soil filled in. Niphetos will thrive in a moderately high or low tem- perature. If quantity is desired, keep them at sixty- three to five. If quality, on budded stock, fifty-five to fifty-eight. At fifty the flowers will be of monstrous size, but correspondingly less in quantit}'. The petals of this rose being so delicate in both structure and color, excessive dampness, as well as tobacco smoke even in moderate quantity, is equally disastrous. For a lighter color in red than Meteor, Papa Gontier su})plies the place so long held by the now nearly ob- solete Bon Silene, of which it is a seedling. This rose seems to do well in any good rose soil, if porous and well drained. It matures best in a cool atmosphere, not over fifty-six at night, and with an abundance of air by day, but is impatient of sudden changes or too wet soil. While the wood is of good size, it does not grow as rap- idly as some varieties; root action is not so vigorous; for these reasons it will not absorb so much water, and requires a fleet bench, not over four inches of soil, and this well drained. If you discover in it a tendency to shed its leaves, look for sudden changes in temperature Cultural Notes. 185 or over watering as the cause. To show at their best, the buds should be cut before they are open at the tip, and be placed in water under the cellar skylight until matured. One who has not tried this will be astonished at the transformation that will take place in a few days. Sometimes in cold weather four days after cutting will be required to develop them perfectly and shoAV them at their best. If exposed to the light and no ice allowed to come near them in the cellar they will retain their fine coloring and be of twice the value they w^ere when first cut. All lovers of color admire the silvery pink of La F" ranee, and in popular favor it stands second only to Mermet, while Avith man}' it occupies first place. It is by no means a difficult rose to grow, though somewhat delicate in comparison with others. It loves a soil suit- al)le for Perle, ])ut as it is subject to black spot, water- ing and atmospheric changes must be carefully attended to. To develop well it should be grown in a tempera- ture varying but little from sixty-two at night. The buds should never be cut until well expanded, which detracts from its value as a shipping rose. With- in a few hours from the time they are open, they should be on the market, undergoing in the meantime as little handling as possible, the delicacy of both petals and color — which makes them such favorites — forbidding what to some varieties is a benefit. White La France, a rose of exceedingly delicate col- 136 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. oring, and a favorite in some sections, requires much the same treatment as that ah'eady described for La France. American Beauty supplies both form and color not found in any of the foregoing. Not all who try, suc- ceed with it, but the cause of failure is not always easy to determine. Some who succeed once, fail on the next trial, and it is desirable that all the conditions of botli success and failure should be made a subject of careful study. No one would dare lay down any set formula of treatment, as may be done with some varieties, for all such are liable to fail, as the writer has had the op- portunity of proving. This dear rose — in more senses than one — is exceed- ingly capricious, and often found in the condition in which a cynic once classed her glorious namesake, " when she will she will, and when she wont she wont." 1 venture the assertion, however, that he whose percep- tions are keen enough to match the latter, will usually succeed with the first also. Were I to venture any cultural suggestions they would be the following: Give it the same soil as Mermet, plant early, the last of May if possible, and with good strong plants that have never been allowed to become pot bound. Do not let the night temperature fall below 58° or exceed 63°. Should verv thick, heavy canes come up from the bot- tom, that will not form a bud when left to mature, pinch off such as they appear when from twelve to fifteen CuLTUKAL Notes. 187 inches high, and from one to four side shoots will form that are pretty sure to bud. Strong shoots that go blind will, if bent over, usually throw blooming shoots from the lower buds, or from the base of the plant. It is a ravenous feeder and you must do well b}- it if you would see a tine growth. The remaining roses used for winter woi'k are mainly duplicates in color of those already described. Among these, Sunset, asport from Perle, and Duchess of Albany, from La France, should be given in the main the same treatment as described for the varieties from which they originated. Sunset is less apt to come deformed in winter than its parent, Perle, the buds being formed mainly on single stems instead of in cluster form, as is sometimes the case with the latter. Waban, a sport from Mermet, has, so far as I know, been utterly unable to redeem herself in the estimation of growers, and must be set down as worthless in most localities, but the color so much sought after, as well as good habit, seems to have been found in her sister, the Bridesmaid. This is also a sister of the Bride and bids fair to rank with her in popular favor. It shows no inclination to throw malformed buds, and holds its color well dur- ing long continued dark weather, the only defect which can be found Avith its illustrious parent. I have had the opportunity of watching this rose for a year, and find treatment accorded Mermet, suited to this also. Madam Pierre Guillott is another rose not as well VoH How TO Grow Cut Flowers. known as some but one highly prized by those who luve variagation in color. The ground work of lemon white, daintily bordered with pink, gives us a shade not found in any save Watteville, and superior to that va- riety in both coloring, productivness and ease with which it is grown. Like many others it is better suited for summer flowering, being seen at its best in early fall and spring. To be made profitable in winter, it should be given a shallow bench near the glass, and grown in a night temperature of from 65° to 68°. It is one of the best keepers we have and exceedingly productive. Those desiring to grow Meteor, and not Avishing to plant an entire house of it, will find this to do well in the same temperature, the three south rows of a middle bench, as well as the south bench itself, being well adapted to its growth. Pierre Guillott is another of this class though different in color. It may not re- quire quite so high a temperature as the former, but should not be grown at less than (38°. This also is a better summer than winter rose. jNIadam Watteville succeeds well with only a few growers; with me it does best in a soil and temperature suited to La France, but burns easily and needs care- ful Avatching and the glass clouded slightly, as soon as the sun commences to take strong effect. It should be allowed to expand well on the bush before cutting, placed in water and kept twenty-four hours before being offered for sale. Cult URAL Xotes. 139 Wm. Francis Bennett has been grown less with each passing year, for the reason that it is not an easy rose to cultivate, and that others of nearly the same shade, with which success is more assured, have in a great measure taken its place. Its delicious fragrance, warm color, perfect form and beautiful foliage, made all ac- quainted with it reluctant to part company with so agreeable a variety, but one by one the growers have abandoned its cultivation. It should be grown at about 60°, allowed to expand fully, cut and placed in a cool cellar for a few hours, when it will gather its petals like a tulip and be ready for a quick sale. Many who are unable to grow American Beauty to {)rofit, find a substitute for it in some respects in Souv. de Wootton. It will bear very high feed, and if the manure is two years old and well composted, use half manure and half soil. Let the soil used be a stiff strong loam. Grow in a night temperature of from 50° to 55°, and do not allow more than one bud to mature on a cane. If we could all grow such blooms of this as were shown at Toronto in the winter of '90, I very much fear American Beauty would fall into " innocu- ous desuetude." If those who cannot grow Beauty successfully, and still desire a rose of that form and color for their own retail trade, will give this a trial under the above con- ditions, they will find in it a very fair substitute for Beauty save in fragrance. 140 How TO Ojjow Ct't Flowers. Mad. Ciipin is a rose which seems to succeed with only a few, and these few eastern growers. I am free to say I have not as yet found what it requires, nor do I kno^v a western grower who succeeds with it as well as they do around New York. Those who have had the best success, grow it in a heavy soil and in a night temperature of 58 to 60°. At first sight, it displays but few qualities except prolificness that are calculated to attract the grower, and the purcliaser must also be educated to its use. Unattractive in color by sunlight, its beauty of color is brought out only under gaslight. Seen thus in masses with an abundance of foliage, it at once chains the attention of all beholders. This makes it one of the most popular roses for evening decoration. For a rose to "till in.'' used either for cut sprays or as a substitute for white in designs when that color cannot be obtained, probably no one rose grown to- da}^ answers the purpose better than Clothilde Soupert. Though worthless from a commercial standpoint, it is valuable to the small grower for home trade, as it will grow in almost any good soil, and in a mixed collection. The last rose among the older teas worthy of men- tion in this connection, is Mad. Hoste. It requires a stiff soil, strong feed and a temperature of from o8 to 60°. It is very productive, man}- who grow for their own use preferring it to any other of its color, because they can, if necessary, substitute it for either Perle or 1 The Forcing of Hybrids. 141 Bride. All we;ik wood, as well as buds, should be re- moved, as it has the habit of producing more than it cjin mature into first-class flowers. Among the new roses of more recent date, Kaiserina Augusta Victoria and Mad. Testout give great prom- ise, and there is no doubt a place for both if they con- tinue as they have commenced. The former resembles Cornelia Cook in form, more than any now grown, but is much more easily handled than that variety was ever capable of being. It is an exceedingly strong grower, and will undoubtedly become popular wher- ever a rose of that color is needed for vase decoration, as the foliage is fine and abundant. Mad. Testout re- sembles La France in many respects, but is a stronger grower, and the blooms larger. It is of too recent origin to be able to say just what treatment is best adapted to its need. CHAPTER XXX. THE FORCING OF HYBRIDS. The difficulties attending hybrid forcing are so great, very few, comparatively, attempt it. In order to be }>rofitable, wholesale prices should range from $100 per 1(X) at Christmas, to $25.00 per 100 two months later, and the markets are few that encourage a grower to incur the necessary risk. Three methods are employed for blooming this class — the solid border, growing in 14:^ How TO Ghow Cut Flowers. pots, and in shallow benches. The first of these nietli- ods was the only way nntil within a few years, and Gen- eral Jacquimenot about the only variety, and there are many fine producing beds of this kind in existence yet. Before planting, the ground should be thoroughly and deeply trenched, tile drainage provided where inclined to be wet, rich soil filled in and planted with Ijudded or grafted stock, as these unquestionably give larger blooms. After blooming they will make their growtli for the following season's Avork, and after this time water should be withheld in order to have the wood ripen early, in some cases scarcely any water being used save that applied to the foliage during the period of growth. Plenty of air should be given, but the sash should be so arranged as to exclude all rain. After two or three severe frosts in the fall, to which they should be ex- posed, prune them back to strong eyes, clean the house of leaves, give a mulch of cow manure two inches deep and wash this into the soil by a good watering. Bend over and tie all canes so as to fill the space evenly, and for the first week carry a low temperature. As the buds swell and breaks commence, the temperature can be gradually raised, but should not be above fifty until the buds commence to set, which will be in from four to six weeks. During this time, or while the buds are form- ing, water must be used with great care, but syringing on bright days should be well attended to. After the buds are formed, both water and feed may be supplied Ti!]-: FoK< rxG ok Hyhhids. \4.\ more liberally, and from this; time the temperature grad- ually raised to tifty-six or eight. From ten to twelve weekn are required from the time the plant:< are started until the first buds are ready for market. One thing to be avoided in a erop of this kind is to have it mature to any extent during Lent, but as these dates vary, each grower must figure for himself, taking into account the ripeness of the ^vood as well as the coolness, or other- wise, of the fall. The blooming period can then be advanced by a week, or retarded several at the option of the operator, by either raising or lowering the tem- perature of the house. Less risk attends this than othei- methods, and it is well adai)ted to the want of those who have a retail trade which will warrant them in de- voting a small house to this purpose, but of course early bloom cannot be obtained in this way. (Growing hy- brids on benches for early bloom is a trade in itself, and requires not only experience but great skill and sound judgment. Although I have tried this method to some extent in years past, the markets of the west have not as 3'et given the encouragement necessary for supplying this class of stock, consequently I have not given the time and study needed to render success assured in this method. For this reason I give here the system recom- mended by a prominent eastern grower, who has had great success in this special line. The Hon. Jno. Burton, who has the reputation of be- ing the best grower of hybrids about Philadelphia, thus states his method of growing them on shallow benches : 144 How TO (J HOW Cut Flowp:ks. " Shallow benches are preferred, not because they will produce more flowers, but for the reason the moisture is under such perfect control they can be produced much earlier than in solid beds. No matter what plan is adopted, there is great uncertainty about getting hybrid roses to bloom early. I have often had a par- tial failure when the treatment has been as nearly as ])Ossible the same as that given in other houses in which the l)est success was obtained. But when you do obtain them in perfect form it will repay you, whether grown for profit, or for your own pleasure or amusement. A few well finished hybrids on stems two feet long, with tine foliage and good substance of petal, will give as much satisfaction generally, as an armful of teas. " The houses used for this purpose are of the ordinary l)attern, three-fourths span, the benches constructed in the usual way, provided with good drainage and filled with soil five inches deep. For two years past I have used no manure in the soil provided for this work, but have mixed with it flour of bone at the rate of two hundred pounds to a house one hundred feet long. Were the soil poor I Avould also add one load of manure to eight of soil. '' For early planting, two methods are adopted for ob- taining the plants needed. They are either soft cut- tings taken from the crop flowering the last of Decem- l)er, or, as is more generally the case, plants made from cuttings from the last crop of the ])revious summer's- The FoR(iN(i of Hviirids. 14") ^^rowtli. These should ])e grOAvn in thvee-incli pots, rested through Novemher and December, washed out and repotted about Januai'v iirst, and in this way they make fine plants for placing in the border in March or April. " A\'hen planting, place the weaker growers on the low benches, and those required for first flowering should be in position by April, as the growth must be made ])y the last of July and the ])lants ready for ripening. Some growers prefer plants budded or grafted on ma- netta, but if I have a good plant from a three inch pot, as already described, ready to plant April first. T am ^^atisfied. •'From this time until you are ready to ripen the wood every means must be adopted for producing a strong, rapid growth. Give them plenty of water, and all the air needed for a healthy, sturdy growth. When the days are hot and dry, do not fail to sj^ringe often, in order to keep down red spider, for if there is much of this when it becomes necessary to ripen the wood, as soon as water is withheld the leaves will begin to fall and the result will be, the plant will have neither leaves nor flowers. " The ripening of the wood is the most important, as well as difficult part of the process. What is sought to be accomplished is to stop the growth, harden the wood and drop the leaves uithoiit loosing the roots, and this can only be done by the very careful use of water. If they have 10 14() How TO (Jijow CiT Flowers. been getting water every day, nse it only every other da}', then every third day, l)ut watcli carefully that the wood does not shrivel, or the leaves burn. When water is given, do not be afraid of supi)lying it liberally, for if the plants are kept fresh bv syringing, or damping the to}) soil only, the surface roots will be ke})t alive, while all below will be dead. ''Two months will be required in Avhich to thoroughly harden the wood. After this is accomplished, prune out all soft and weak wood, leaving from two to four canes, according to the strength of the plant, the chances being that the strongest of these will break from two eyes, and mature buds from each. These canes should be cut l)ack to within from six to twelve inches of the bed, according to the strength of the plant. The house should be cleaned of dead leaves, trimmings and ac- cumulations of any kind, by a thorough sweeping, after which give two or three light waterings to soften the soil. When this has been done, give a toj) dressing of two inches of strong, fresh cow manure, and water un- til the bed is well soaked. "If this is the first house to l)e brought to bloom, it will now be the last of September or the tirst of ( )ctober, so give all the ventilation possible as they will soon start into growth. Syringe every fine day, but be careful about water, as the heavy top dressing will keep them from drying out very fast, and root action has only just commenced. Guard against green fly and mildew, as the last is apt to appear with the advent of cool nights. TlIK Fol.MINd OK Hviil.'IDS. 147 " Early hybrids arc apt to be sliort stemmed, so as soon as you are satisfied the buds are set, give a little higher temperature, about sixty-tive at night, which will have a tendency to lengthen out the stem and not injure the flowers, if you gradually reduce the temperature some time before the buds show color. The flowers should open in a night temperature of from fifty to fifty-five; lower than that they do not develop freely. " Never let the beds get dry after the plants are well covered with foliage, as a bed of healthy hybrids carries a great quantity of large leaves that quickly suffer if the soil become at all dry. Occasionally 1 find it neces- sai'v to use manure water after the buds are set, but only when the plants are not of the right color, or the top dressing appears dried, which will happen if too old when applied. ''After the flowers have been cut from an early house, the plants can be removed and the room occupied W'ith those grown in boxes foi' the purpose, or they can be dried off for about three weeks, the blind wood removed and started up as before. By this plan you will obtain about half a crop of flowers for Easter, or early si)ri ng, when they are still in demand. " The treatment of later houses will be the same, ex- ce})t the planting need not be done as early, and the drying will not be so tedious, the cool nights helping to check the growth. AVhen starting a house in midwin- ter, use a little more heat and a little less water. 148 How TO (h{()W Cut Fj-owkhs. '' The best soil is a rich, free, sandy loam. If too stiff and heavy it is ai)t to open large cracks, when quite dry, in tliat way breaking and injuring a great many of the roots; because of this it would be well to use plenty of sand with such a soil. " The varieties mostly grown around Philadelphia are, Mrs. John Laing, Magna Charta, Uhlrich Brunner, Ba- roness Rothschild and Madam Gabriel lAiizet. Some other varieties are also used, but not in quantity. Baroness Rothschild will not succeed well if brought into Hower before the last of Febl•uar3^ Mrs. John Laing must not be dried too severely or it Avill die after being cut back." . CHAPTER XXXI ELOKIST'S GREEN. This tills such an important place in all cut Mower work, especially in connection with roses, this volume would seem incomplete without a short description of such kinds as are most in demand. For many years smilax was all that could be de- pended upon for this purpose, but now both ferns and asparagus are largely grown, and in many instances by specialists. Smilax is of exceedingly easy culture, but to be grown to profit, should have under heat and a rich soil about eight inches in depth. If grown more than one year, it should have a rest in July and l)e started Fl(i1{|s'1'"s (ti;ki-:.\. 141) into growth in August l»y top di'essing and watering, and the stringing should be all done before it makes much growtli. After the runners begin to push out strong, it should be gone over every few days and pains taken to keep the growth of each plant on its own string. This takes but little time if attended to often, but wlien neglected a few days causes no end of trouble. When growing rapidly, it will take considerable water, but care should be taken not to have the soil become sod- den, neither will it do to let it go for any length of time, Avithout examining to see if the bed is dry at the bottom, as the under heat so necessary to grow a crop ({uickly, soon dries the nearest roots if not carefully watched. The syringe must be used to keep spider at bay, and for this purpose perfectly clear water should be used, as any sediment, clay or lime deposit will mar the clear glossy surface of the leaves. The usual reme- dies for the subjugation of green fly must be used, and in the fall when the new crop is growing, grass- hoppers must be carefully excluded, as well as con- stant watch kept for cut worms. These last are very destructive, and sometimes attain a size equal to any seen in cornfields or truck gardens. Two varieties of cut \\orms are often found, — the dark ones, which as a rule cut the plant at the root ; and the lighter brown, that climb the plant and destroy tlie young shoots. Until recently no means of extermination were thought to be practicable l)ut hand picking. Those that climb l-")() How TO (iuow Cut Fi.oweijs. and work aniono' the foliage may l)e easils' fouiul by lami)light, and a few iiiglits oi" careful hunting will rid the bench of them. The others are more difficult to find, but the same course must be pursued, and thor- ough search made in the soil where one is suspected of being secreted. A more detailed description of the methods of destroying these worms will be found on page 167. When a crop has nearly made its growth, it ma}- be hardened by a partial withholding of water, commenc- ing wdth one end and progressing each day as fast as it will be needed when ready to cut. In this way, when cutting commences, it can all be taken, the bed cleaned, mulched, watered and started into a new growth as fast as the first crop is removed. A little liquid manure applied with the water is very beneficial after growth has commenced, and when beds are grown two years, considerable of this will be needed the second year. I would neither divide old roots for replanting, or grow them more than two seasons. It is l)etter to grow from f^ced and plant at least every two years, and thus be enabled to furnish a new and unexhausted soil. Young plants should be well grown in four inch pots by the first of August and ready to plant. Adiantums are also grown in large ([uantities for this purpose. ( )f these, cuncatum and gracillimum are used most in connection with cut fiower woi'k and res})ond to the same treatment. It is not necessarv to raise Fl(>kistV (Ji{ken. 1.")1 seedlings every season, for if properly performed the stocks may be divided several times. This should be done in June. It is preferable to divide to crowns that will go in a three inch pot, removing at the same time all rusty fronds and stumps of former cuttings. If at hand, obtain a i)art of the soil from some upland locality where wild ferns grow, or leaf mould is to l)e found. If these are not to be had, chop some sphagnum fine, mix with it flour of bone in the proportion of four quarts to a bushel, usingone bushel of sphagnum so mixed, to six of good loam. The soil should be good, but free from anything in the shape of manure that is not thoroughly decomposed, and the manure should be used rather sparingly even then. When these plants have been di- vided and potted, they should l)e set on a bench that has been properly shaded, all drafts kept from them, and the house kept warm, damp, and free from the en- trance of any air for a few days, or until they commence to make root. When the plants are ready, shift to a five inch pot, and from this size to an eight, which will be the last, and this should be done early in September. Crock the pots Avell, and for the last shift cover the crocking with a handful of sphagnum through which bone meal has been mixed in the i)roportion of one to eight. Fill around the ball with soil as first recom- mended, being careful to settle it with a tamping stick so there shall be no vacancies or loose places. In the spring a little liquid manure in the water once or twice 152 How TO (iKOw Cut Flowehs. a week will earry them through, being careful not to apply it to them when they are dry. They should he grown in a temperature of from 08° to 70°, no air ad- mitted to the plants direct, but sufficient allowed to es- cape to keep the house sweet. Shading should be sup- plied in a way that will be permanent, and for this, com- mon paint is best. If desired to giye it a green tinge, it can be easily done, and the effect produced is much the same as seen in their native Avilds. Warmth, a moist atmosphere and shade are the three great requi- sites to a successful growth. Of insect enemies, the snail is the worst, and must ]>e guarded against. Before any plants areputina house it shouldbe thoroughly scalded, eyery inch of it, wood work benches and all the soil underneath them, witli boiling water. If this is done thoroughly, and snails are not brought in afterwards l)y means of soil or other methods, but little trouble will be had from them during the entire season. I would not advise tlie planting of ferns on benches, as they will not produce as many fronds by one third as when treated in the way described. Asparagus plumosus is largely taking the place of smilax for decorations. Form a solid bed on the ground where plent}^ of head room can be had, giving tile drainage and a foot of good soil. For the first sea- son's growth, plant as early as you can spare the room, giving it as much of the season as possible, l)ut the same plants will do well for two or three years. After TiiK Caijna rio.N. 1"):') the crop lias been cut. if ])encli room is neecled. l)uilda temporary one over it and let it go wild until August 1st, withliolding water from it. This gives a natural period of rest. As early as September 1st, clean up, to]) dress and start into growth, and by December it should have made its growth, been hardened of!" and be ready for cutting. As a good two year old plant will make from one to three strings, commanding from oO to 7-") cents each, it will readily be seen that this is a paying crop. ("HAPTER XXXII. THE C'AIJXATION. Ivi tlie estimation of most flower lovers, this ranks second only to the rose. The beautiful variegations in color, its deliglitful fragrance, and good keeping (piali- ties rendering it a favorite with all. and I somewhat doubt if the rose, even, is now claiming as much atten- tion from growers of cut flowei'S as is this grand flower. Improvements through hybridization during the past few years have been very marked, and to-day buyers are oftentimes at a loss to decide which of the many varieties offered, they shall replace the older ones with. It is a well established fact that the life of all varie- ties is comparatively short. Some place the period during which any one variety can be grown to |)rotit, as beino- limited to five or six vears. It is certainlv true 104 How TO Grow Cut Flowers, — and as we look backward oui- own experience proves it beyond question — tliat many well known varieties fail to do as well as at first, some having failed altogether, deterioration going on from year to year until they ceased to be a source of profit and had to be discarded. There is little doubt but that the method of reproduc- tion is largely responsible for this state of things, for the reason that nature designed a period of rest for this plant, but Avhen we find a variety suited to our trade or locality, we usually keep it growing three hundred and sixty- five days in the year, and as many years as its consti- tutional vigor will sustain it. That the vigor of all plants of this class is greater the nearer they are to the parent seed, the numerous new seedlings now produced ever}^ year fully attest. It has come to be a fixed oi)in- ion, with those wlio have given the matter careful stud}', that so long as plants arc renewed from cuttings with- (Hit rest— which, by the way, it seems almost impossi- ble to give to any extent when propagated in the usual way — ^just so long will it be necessary to replace the old plants, every few years, with seedlings. Some of our best growers are raising seedlings each year with this end in view, hoping thus to keep the product fully up to the standard in quantity, quality also being- increased through ability to kee}) them in more perfect health. Some varieties show a greater degree of vital- ity than others, but with few exceptions the tendency dowuAvard can ])e detected early in their career. Care- TiiK Cak'nation. 155 fill obi^ervation and trial will undoubtedly prove the life of any seedling to be longest when surrounded by all the conditions of soil and climate where it origi- nated. The record of two well known varieties, Butter- cup and ( Jrace Wilder, would seem to prove this. The former of these grows luxuriously in sections near where it orisrinated, while few have anv success with it else- where. (Jrace Wilder also is still a favorite in many localities, while in others, notwithstanding it usually makes a fine growth of foliage, the color of bloom — so ex(piisite in some sections — is badly mottled, rendering it utterly worthless. This would seem to indicate that growei's would do well to try new varieties carefully, until they i)rove to be adapted to tlieir soil and loca- tion. That a seeming necessity exists for a change of stock every few years, none who have given the matter thought will hardly deny, and the carnation grower should carefully test every meritorious variety each year, retaining only such as suit his soil and climate. The large place this plant fills in the world of flowers warrants much more space than can be accorded it here, and if all its various interests were fully treated, it would require a volume of itself. Opinions differ materially among growers in relation to many points in its cultivation, and as these differences of opinion cannot all be given here, the writer can only state the conditions producing success or failure with him. I l.')6 How TO (trow C'lT Floweks. know of no plant, f^eemingly of sucli easy cultivation, that requires more careful study than this, and this fact is coming to be generally recognized more and more each year. So important has it become in the eyes of cultivators, a national society has recently been formed, through means of which, it is hoped, an interchange of thought and experience will result in greatly ad- vancing the interest and value of this general favor- ite, as well as stimulate all to a closer study of botli its nature and needs. This is well, and everyone should avail himself of every means at his com- mand relating to its wants, through intercourse with others, and knowledge of their experience; and still, perhaps more than Avith any other Hower we culti- vate, are we at last obliged to fall back upon our own resources. And this, because varieties and conditions whicli succeed with one fail with another, so there is no certainty without a trial — however })opular or per- fect a plant may be in one section of the country — of its reproducing itself in tliese respects in another. It is a study absolutely necessary for each grower to make for himself. Only a few general principles can be laid down as a l)asis of growth, and some of these must be varied to meet the want produced b\' variety, soil, or climate. With the writer, the following conditions have l)een conducive to the greatest degree of success, though failures have sometimes come where thev have been Till-: (\\i;na rioN. \~)i observed ; but, as already stated, these failures were due mainly to changing to such varieties as had not been previously proved, but which had succeeded in other localities, and in other soils. My experience has been that cuttings made in December, potted and kept in a temperature of from 50 to 5o° until shifted to a two and a half or three inch pot, gave the best results, as when this shift is given, the centre can be removed, causing eyes to break from the base of the plant, and if allowed to remain in the same temperature until the new roots begin to push, the plants can then be I'emoved to a cold house or frame. This not only relieves benches always needed at that season of the year, but gives the plant a short ])eriod of rest, hardens and fits it for being placed in the open ground without injury, as soon as the season opens sutficiently. Early planting, especially in warm latitudes, is one of the great essentials, otherwise I'oot action will not be well established with the advent of dry or warm weather, rendering the plant liable to a feeble stunted growth. For soil, the best in my opinion for field growth, is an upland light loam that was thoroughly manured the l)revious season, no fertilizer whatever being used the year of planting, unless it be wood ashes, bone meal, or some known and proved commercial fertilizer that will not increase the dryness of the soil. Plant in S([uares fourteen by fourteen inches, so they can be worked botli wavs with a hand cultivator. Care should be had 158 How TO (J ROW Ci'T Flowers. not to plant too deep, and if done early, tlie V)all i^liould be just below the surface, pressed down carefull>% leav- ing a slight depression around the plant. If the season is dry, a light stirring of the soil each day will be of benefit, as will also a slight syringing of the foliage just at night. Topping, as a rule, should cease by the middle of August, but this must be modified by the time bloom is desired, by variety and locality, and is a point for each grower to determine for himself. No frost should ever be allowed to touch them in the fall, though a light frost on acclimated plants in the spring is not harmful. Benches should be well drained, and the soil in them six inches deep. Early out of doors, and earW in doors, is the result of my observation, as it gives a strong plant early in the fall for lifting, and one that will soon adapt itself to the new order of growth. Taking one season with another, in all localities north of central Indiana, they should be housed by Septem- ber 10th. If grown and planted as already recom- mended, b}" the first of September tlie new breaks will have formed from the last topping, the plant will be strong and in a condition to bear transplanting much better than when the blooming stems are well advanced, as in this condition the check given sometimes blasts the first buds. For this class of plants, and at this season of the year, provided the soil from which they are taken and to which the}' are to be removed is simi- lar in character, lifting carefully with a ball is far pre- TiiK Cai.'Na ri<»N. ir)9 lerable to sliakiniiout clvav., as may safely l)e done with smaller plants. A preservation of all the roots should be sought first, and as much of the l)all supporting them as can l)e handled conveniently, second. The distance at which they should be planted in a bench depends upon the growth they have made in the field, as well as to the length of time they are to remain in the house. In either case, they must not be so close that air cannot circulate freely among them. Never plant them any decider in the bench than they were grown in the held, or tliey are liable to decay at the base and their usefulness be destroyed. The method of planting depends upon the way it is desired to support them, and this supporting should be T" Fig. 33. done as soon as planted. If the plants of a row are so arranged as to come between those of the preceding row, they can be supported best by wires running lengthwise of the bed, interlaced with string running across them. To do this, stretch rows of Xo. 16 galvanized wire from end to end of the bench, ten inches apart and six inches above the soil. Support these by light wooden cross 1<)0 How TO (J Row ('it Flowers. pieces every twenty feet. Take common white cord, and instead of runnin,i>- at right angles witli the first wire, carry it across the bed diagonally, passing the ball around each wire as you proceed. The distance between the strings should be six inches, and when finished the surface will be as represented in Fig. 88. Two men, one on each side of a bench, will perforin the work rapidly. The plants will soon grow uj) through this net work and it Avill prevent their being pressed to the ground l)y the weight of additional growth. For strong plants my preference is for wire netting. Take a roll of two inch mesh chicken-v.ire, cut in lengths the width of the bench, divide this into two pieces, lengthwise, fasten each edge to oak or yellow pine strips one inch by half inch with small staples one-fourth of an inch in length. A still more durable way is to sew the edges with wire to live-eighths inch iron rods of suitable length. Bend this now in the form of an inverted V, and place be- tAveen the rows, fastening the ends of the strips to which the wire is fastened to the edge of the bench, by means of common sta])les. This will commend itself to all who adopt it, for the following reasons: It keeps all foliage from touching the ground at any time during the season ; a constant current of air passes through the space caused by the inverted V, drying out an}- damp- ness that may have gathered ; liquid food can easily be supplied without wetting the foliage, and when the sea- son is over, shut one into another, they occupy but little TiiK Caknatiox. 1()1 Fpace, fan (}ui('kly be placed in position Avhen wanted, and will last for years if properly cared for. Earl}^ in-door planting requires watchfulness as well as the best of facilities for keeping down the tempera- ture. To grow carnations successfully, abundant ven- tilation must be provided both in the roof, at the ends and in both walls, and for this reason houses used for them should never join each other. Build to obtain the greatest amount of sunlight, but above all, provide all the ventilation possible. The soil in which they are planted should not be made as lirm as described for roses, but left loose enough to be able to plant with the hand, after which, water well. For the tirst week shade with a clay wash, put on every inch of air possible, and if very warm, syringe the foliage with a tine spray as often as it becomes dry, being careful not to saturate the soil. Root action under these conditions will com- mence at once, and no matter how hot it is, your plants will in a week forget that they were ever moved. The average night temperature in which carnations should be grown for tiowering, is tifty-six, but varies with varie- ties, some requiring more, some less. It also depends upon the use to which the plants are to be put. If it is to till up space that will be wanted for other purposes after the tirst crop is off, they should be cut back in the Held with this end in view. In this case the night tem- perature can be a few degrees higher, but all plants Avhich vou desire should bloom from November to Jul v 162 How TO (trow Cct Floweiis. must be given a lower temperature; nor will it do to deprive them to any extent of their foliage. I eonsider this a fruitful source of some of the obstacles we meet to- day, and shall have occasion to refer to it again under the head of the diseases to which this plant is susceptible. It will have been observed by those acquainted with carnations, that the conditions most suitable to their development in the open air, are to be found in the month of September. It is then they make the most rapid as well as healthy growth, and if we would obtain the most perfect success it is well for us to study nature's methods during the month spoken of. At this season of the year the days are usuallv warm, but the nights cool, and in the latter part of the month, mercur}' often indicates forty. I do not believe in grow- ing carnations cool, as it is termed, if that means the thermometer should never be allowed to rise above sixty during the day if it can be kept that low. Sep- tember days are warm, and from this we may conclude warmth with plenty of air is not injurious, and if the temperature remains at sixt\' during the evening, grad- ually falling from that during the night, even to forty, it is much more in accord with the condition of things in the month referred to, than to aim to keep a low tem- perature both day and night. While a mean degree is given at fifty-six, there is no doubt l)ut that varia- tions during the twenty-four hours of from seventy-five at noon to forty or forty-live at four in tlie morning, TiiK Caknatiox. K):*) jire more in accord with natural conditions, at the season of the year in which they do the best in the field. The soil, if it be a sandy loam sod, may be made as strong as one part of manure to five of soil, but it is imperative that the manure be so thoroughly decom- posed and mixed through the soil, as to render its pres- ence difficult of detection. Bone meal and wood ashes are also good; but to be available as food, should be incorporated with the soil pile when made, and this should be several months in advance of the time when it will be needed, in order to have it thoroughly de- composed, as the 'structure of carnation roots is fine, and they are impatient of any coarse or green material. When necessary to supply food during their period of flowering, if the dirt has settled so the top has fallen below the balls of the plants, a light mulching between the rows will be of benefit, otherwise it is easiest to supply what is needed in a liquid state, but it is always better to supply this in small doses and often, than to give it in any abundance. Some growers supply a lit- tle with the water every time it is applied to the soil. For a change from the usual forms, aqua ammonia is good, and if used should not exceed one pint to two barrels of water, and in this strength no fears need l)e entertained of injury to the plants, even though used quite often. As in the feeding of roses, it is well to rotate liquids, but care must be taken not to give them more than thev can assimilate. 1()4 How TO Gkow Cut Flowej^s. One of tlie most congenial fornis of food is to be found in spent hops. These must never l)e used in the green state, but should be nt least a year old before they are fit for plant food, and if exposed to the air and weather for two years, so much the better. When brought from the brewery they should not be piled more than three feet deep, and turned often in order not to have them fire-fang. When all danger of this is passed, they can be brought together in more compact form, and turned occasionally until wanted for use. I would not advise mixing them with the soiK but have had excellent success when the}^ have l)een used on the bottom of a bench. Before filling Avith soil, spread evenly over the whole surface a coat from an inch to one and a half inches deep, and let the roots seek them when they wish. Eventually they will be completely matted with roots if a proper degree of moisture is given. Some of the finest and most prolific plants I have ever grown were the result of this treatment. When it is desired to bloom a house of carnations the entire season, the night temperature should not exceed 55° during the winter months, nor should any foliage be taken from the plants. As the power of the sun increases in the spring, a light shading should be applied to the glass. Keep all weeds removed, and earh^ in March apply a mulching two inches deep. The manure used for this purpose should be a year old. For spider and green fiy, both spraying and fumiga- 'I'llK CaIv'NA'IIoX. K).") ting must l)e attended to. l)iit never syringe in the lat- ter part of the (Uiy, or allow any dampness to be pre- sent on the foliage as night approaches. Some of our finest varieties, in order to make first-class flowers, need to be disbudded. This also each grower must regulate in accordance with the requirement of his market. Varieties change so often, and there are so manv in cultivation, it does not seem best to occupy space here in an endeavor to describe their individual treatment, and in this eonnection I will only speak of Buttercup, as up to the present time it is the best of its color, and comparatively few succeed with it. More than usual care should be exercised to have every cutting in per- fect health when taken from the plant. These should be rooted, and treated as previously described, as they are more difficult to propagate after January. In the field tbey can be planted in a good loam, but for bench work they nee!. Mice are often ver}^ destructive and must ])e disposed of by trapping, or by poison. Twitter is caused by a small insect similar to the green fi\^ — so says Prof. Ba- ker — and the remedies effectual with that, are with this also. Their presense becomes known when the leaves are seen to curl, and the shoot curve as though it had been stung. For a remedy in the field, kerosene emulsion is recommended by the same authority. Not having been troubled with it since knowing what it was, I have not had occasion to try this remedy. Cut worms work on the buds, cutting a small hole through its case and eating off the petals at tlieir juncture with its base Their work is done at night, secreting them- selves in the soil, under anything on its surface, or among the foliage at the base of the plant as soon as dawn appears. The appearance of cut worms among carnations is comparatively new, and the writer has been afflicted with their presence but once, in the win- ter of '92. The fact that only one variety was at- tacked by them, although there was another in the same house, led to the conclusion the eggs must have been deposited on the plants while in the field, as no others were affected, nor were other carnations growni in the same part of th(^ field as those U])on which the worms were found. When their depredations are first noticed, they should be attended to at once, or. every bud is lia])le to 1)e destroved in a short time. In the instance referred to, but little attention was The Cak'xation. Kh paid to tlieni at first, tlie carnations were removed when the bencli was needed, a little sand spread over the soil and the bench filled with plants of Meteor in five inch pots. After these had been there a short time, it was noticed something was at work on the foliage, but no worms were found at first, but in a short time they had grown so rapidly that in two nigh's they nearly stripped the ])lants of foliage. A search among the pots unearthed nearl}- a quart two-thirds grown, on a bench of seven hundred S(piare feet. Al- though no opportunity has been given to try it, I feel confident a dose of vaporized extract applied at night would exterminate them. Mr. Lombard, a large grower in Massachusetts, recommends Dalmation powder in about the proportion of one pound to 1, ()()() plants, dusting it all over the foliage. He states lie has tried it for both carnations and smilax, with tlie result that large quantities were killed, and that three applications rid the place of them. Carnation blooms are benefited by keeping the stems in water in a cool place a few hours before placing them on the market. If you would establish a repu- tation for first-cdass fiow^ers, careful attention must 1)e given to every detail connected with their growth. Keep i)ace with the times by proving varieties that take high rank elsewhere, and if adapted to youi" soil, be in a condition to compete with others for the pat- ronage of vour section. As the cut fiower business is IBS How TO (lifow Cir Fi.owEi.'s conducted now, it i.s the man who keeps both even and ears open to what is going on around him, who reaps profit from his investment. Study carefully all the peculiarities of both plant and soil. Allow no flowers to go on the market until fully developed, and thus in- crease both size and value. Above all, do not place first and second-class flowers together. Bunch the lat- ter by themselves or discard them altogether, the others Avill bring more money, even if their number is con- siderabh^ less. As fast as a variety ceases to do as well with you as in former years, no matter how great a favorite it has been, substitute for it new and younger l)lood from among the varieties you have tested, and that have proved to be adapted to your locality. C HAPTER XXXIII. DISEASES OF THE CAKXATIOX. The subject of the various diseases to which this plant is liable, is being made a careful study by men well qualified for this particular line of investigation. Mucli has already been revealed by these researches, much also is yet to be discovered as to prevention and cure. No doubt exists in my mind but what the disease de- nominated the "yellows" in former years, was caused to a great extent through exhausted vitality. The plant had served its day and generation, had l)een grown without cessation, and either died of [)remature DiSKASKS OF TIIF. (' A UN AT K ).\. 1<)J) old age or l)ecame so debilitated as to fall an easy })ri'y to some of the diseases about whieli ue then knew so little. I remember also that some years sinee, when living where land was scarce, this trouble was more frequent among plants grown for two or more years upon the same ground. An experience of many years with various species of plants, has convinced me that almost without exception, health and vigor are best preserved when a system of rotation is strictly adhered to. I do not believe the carnation is an exception to the gen- eral rule, but on the contrary, that disease is less liable to attack plants full of vigor, and that this vigor is in- creased when the phmts are grown in fresh soil each season. Fig, 34. Rust, a later and very dangerous enemy, scientists tell us is a fungus, and spreads with great rapidity. It is only within a few days that the writer has seen this pest, and from what little was seen of it then, he be- came convinced it was a disease every grower should take the utmost precaution to avoid. There is no doubt but that it is highly contagious, and if once seen, vigorous measures should be taken to stamp it out. It first appears on tlie leaves in form of small brown 170 How TO (Jkow ('it Fi.owkijs. spots. These are raised above the surface and will rub off and discolor the hand when it is passed over them. Prof. Arthur, of Purdue University, describes this very fully in a paper read l)efore the American Carna- tion Society at Buftalo. in 1S92, from which I make the following extract : "Rust has long been known in Europe, and is especi- ally common in Italy and Germany. The first impres- sion that it was brought from Europe in the importa- tion of l.SV)l is found to be erroneous, it having been found by Prof. Taft, of Lansing, Mich., in 1890, and was known in some places along the Hudson River three years previous. So far as present information goes, the distribution of carnation rust in America has been accomplished within four years. It is now known to occur in Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, Xew York, Ohia, Michigan and Indiana, and a few infected centres might distribute the rust by means of rooted cuttings, as widely as there is a demand for the flowers." " A precautionary measure, after rust has appeared in a house, is to keej) the air as cool and dry as is com- patible with the health of the plants, thus retarding the growth and distribution of the spores." " Wherever the rust has obtained much headway, and especially where it appears shortly after the plants have been housed in the fall, the use of some fungi- cide is almost imperative." The full text of this paper may be found in Vol. 7, Diseases of the Caknation. 171 page 587 of the American Florist. Anotiier illustrated paper from the pen of Prof. Atkinson, of Cornell Uni- versity, may also be found in Vol. 8, No. 247, of the same publication. The main thing is to avoid rust by being careful not to import upon the place any diseased plants, as well as to use preventive measures, and not wait for the disease to develop and have to burn the cro}). Mr. Ward, a large grower in the state of New York, recommends the following treatment: CritArnK A;allons water and let cool and mix the two solution?. Pour same into a kerosene l)arrel containing 40 gal- lons water and stir while using. Ammonia Sou tion. — Two quarts ammonia in which dis- solve (me pound sulphate of copper, and pour this solution in 21) or 80 gallons of water. THEATMENT. l)ii'iMN(;. — All youuii" plants are immersed in the liquid Bor- deaux mixture when set in the open liround. All mature plants are immersed (tops only, not the roots) in the same nuxture when l>enchiuii" in. Si'i;avin«4. — All young plants are sprayed Avith either the liquid Bordeaux or ammonia solution once in two weeks while under tilass. and all tield plants are sprayed the same intield. 1T2 How TO Grow Cut Flowehs. FosTiTE. — Under glass all plaut houses are l>lowii full of Fostite in a fine cloud every dark, cloudy day. Dry Bordeaux is sprinkled over all paths and under all 1 tenches everv two months. Fig. 35. Diseases of the Carnation. 173 These precautionary measures it is well to adopt if there is the least suspicion of the presence of the disease. If it should appear, avoid using water on the foliage save in the distribution of the solu- tion, and remove and burn all affected plants at once. The other diseases to which the carnation is subject are : Leaf spot (Septoria), as shown in Fig 35. Anthracnose, as seen in Fig. 06, and ])acterial disease showni in Fig. 87. These engravings were used in illus- trating the pai)ers read before the Car- n atio n Society at Pittsburgh in Febru- ary of the present year by Professors Atkinson and Hal- stead. A fuller de- scription of the en- gravings will be found in those pa- pers as published. Fig. 36, Bv these illustrations readers will l)e able to ri^cog- 174 How TO (fROvv Cut Ft^oweks. nize the difterent forms of disease as they may develop, without the detailed description so clearly given in tlie pages referred to. The practical question which arises is, how shall these diseases be avoided, oi- if they ap- pear, what is the remedy. In answer to this last ques- tion Prof. Halstead, who has given this matter careful study, recommends the following formulas: "(1.) Potassium sulphide solution: Potassium sul- phide, one ounce; water, ten gallons. The potassium sulphide is a solid, costing fifteen cents a pound, and is easily dissolved in the water as needed. In some cases it has been most convenient for me to dissolve the solid in a quart bottle and ask the gardener to pour out the required amount as needed. The application is by spraying thoroughly about once a week. The results have been so marked that in one instance a large grower of carnations after using this mixture fora sea- son wrote me that he felt confident that it had saved him a great deal and that if generally used it would prove a blesssing to all who are affected with carnation diseases of the sorts above mentioned. Possibly it would be of benefit when rust is the leading enemy. " (2. ) The Bordeaux mixture. Perhaps the best fun- gicide now in use in orchard and garden is the Bor- deaux mixture. This is made as follows : Copper sul- phate, three pounds; lime (unslacked), two pounds; water, twenty- two gallons. Dissolve the sulphate of copper in one vessel and slack the lime in another, Diseases of the Carnation. 17') then mix the two and dilute to the required strength. This is the so-called half-strength Bordeaux mixture which has, in many instances, during the past season, proved as effective as the full strength, and for car- Fig. 37. nations will be strong enough. It is seen that this is a lime mixture and the foliage will be covered with a bluish white layer. But it is to be remembered that this does not differ greatly from the natural color of 176 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. the carnation leaf and stem, and it is one that can be quickly removed from the portion sent to market. A weekly spraying of the plants with this Bordeaux mix- ture should prove remunerative in houses troubled with fungous enemies. The Bordeaux mixture is in- expensive, the copper sulphate (blue vitriol or blue stone) costing eight cents per pound. "(3.) The ammoniacal solution : A third compound that does not have the lime and therefore gives the sprayed plants no marked coating is the ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate. Its formula is as follows: Copper carbonate, five ounces; aqua ammonia (26)^ five pints ; water, fifty gallons. The copper carbonate is first mixed with water into a paste and the ammonia slowly added until the solution becomes clear. This can be kept in a bottle and the required amount diluted as desired for spraying. The carbonate of copper costs thirty-five cents a pound and ammonia sixteen cents a quart, and therefore enough for spraying a large house weekly is a small bill of expense. " Taking all things into consideration it is probable that the three preparations above described are arranged in the order of excellence, the best being placed last." The disease called anthracnose, is 1)etter known by fiorists as ''the cutting bed fungus." This is the form so destructive at times to cuttings when in the sand. Hard wooded cuttings are often blackened by it, but its ravages are greatest among the more tender kinds,. J)lSEA? a lioiise with them, try to mature fine show hlooms, at the same time stripping the plants of every euttinu that can be obtained for sale. Disease is thus invited, and I think that eases in which the invitation is not (|uiekly responded to, will l)e found to be the excep- tion. Two instances of this kind have come under my observation within twelve months, one of them upon my own place. The varieties in question were very strong growing two year old seedlings, apparently in perfect health. The treatment given them was such as has just been described, and resulted in l>oth in- stances in a bad case of the spot disease, while other varieties within the same walls, treated in a more hu- mane manner, gave no indication of its presence. While the removal of a few cuttings from healthy plants that produce them in abundance may be no in- jury, yet as a rule such as are set apart , for tiowering, especially if cut with long stems, should be given all the foliage with which nature surrounds them. Again we should be more in the line of natural con- e disposed of, and that will consume the space without loss of time? The amount of bloom placed on the market each season, l)y those who plant and gather it in much the same way they would sow and reap a sheaf of grain, and with as little care, is appalling. If this is the only class of bloom your market will take, it is better to leave their culti- vation to others, saving what little of time and strength would l)e expended on them, for other things. If on the other hand the taste of the consumer in your vicinity has l)een educated to look for, and be willing to ])ay for a better article, n(^ one who grows 182 How TO Gkow Cut Flowers. and sells his own product without the intervention of middlemen, will need to hesitate long as to the form in which they are to be grown or as to what shall succeed them. The demand will regulate the form, and on all retail places there are many ways of supplying a crop to occupy the vacant space. With the commercial grower, the matter of succession must be decided be- fore commencing. \f your market will take a crop of Harrisii lilies for Piaster, or of hybrids that have l)een grown through the summer in boxes, then a crop of chrysanthemums will add materially to the income to be derived from a house, as either of the above can then 'he followed by a crop of teas or hybrids for the season following, and no time will be lost. When the market demands well grown sprays, the cuttings should be made in April, potted, toi>ped once, shifted, and planted in the bench in June twelve inches each way, and the first shoots pinched out once only. As they grow, all weak wood should be removed, and the buds on those allowed to mature, thinned to the number of blooms desired in a spray. This method will not give as strong or straight stems as when each plant is allowed to mature but one spray. When grown in the last named form the cuttings may 1)6 made and the planting done two or three weeks later. When grown to single stem the top should never be removed, but every facility given the plants to make straight stems l)y staking them at the proper time. ('lIRYSAXTlIEMrMS. 18o Thev can also l:>e more easily eared for when the roAvs jKTOss a bench are 12 inches apart, but the plants con- stituting the row may be six inches apart. Again, if single flowers on long stems are desired, soft cuttings should be rooted by the first of July, and l)lanted as soon as ready from a two inch pot, in four inches of soil, six inches by 12, as before described. Care should be taken to plant the low growing varieties where there is the least amount of head room. If they are to be supported by Avire stakes, the upper wires should be in position before the bench is planted. The soil should be composed of two-thirds decayed sod of a rather light texture, and one-third well com- posted manure, to which add fifty lbs of flour of bone to the amount of soil necessary for a hundred foot house, (live them plenty of air without drafts. See that they never lack for water, or receive a check of any kind from the time the cutting is made, until the bloom is perfected. Remove all laterals as fast as they appear, and as soon as the buds are formed, remove all but one. This should usually be the crown, but if that is in any way imperfect, select the best one. From this time until the flowers show color, li(iuid manure should be supplied liberally, but not too strong, or when the soil is in the least dry. In whatever por- tion of the house your highest colors are planted, see that the glass is shaded slightly, or the full sunlight will fade the bloom. l''>4 How TO Grow Cit Flowkrs. When flowers are grown for exhibition purposes, the plants should be given more room, at least 10x12 inches. Borne prefer planting 12 inches each way when grow- ing for single blooms, the plants being rooted in April, and pinched back twice, giving in this way three or four individual flowers and stems to a plant. The same objection is met in this method as when they arc grown for sprays, the crooked stem lessens their value Exhibition flowers, or such as it is desired to keep a week or more, should be cut just before they are fullv developed, placed in water immediately, and set on a cool, light cellar bottom. Each morning the water should be changed and the stems freshened by cutting a thin slice from the ends. It does not properly come within the province of this work, to treat of growing pot plants for exhibition pur- poses, but it may not be amiss to speak of growing sin- gle flowers in small pots, as. some may desire to grow a few in this way, who cannot devote a house to them. The cuttings should be made the last of June. Par- ticular care should be taken to see that each pot has a good sized hole for drainage. When they need a shift, they should be changed from a two inch to a four inch pot and matured in that size. As soon as they need it, supply them with a neat stake of sufficient length to confine the plant to as it groAvs. Great care must be taken not to let them become dry in the least. On hot or windy days, examine them every hour. Keep them ClIKYSANTlIEM IMS. 185 inside tlirougli the entire season, encouraging them by every possible means to make as rapid a growth as is con- sistent with sturdy vigor. Use weak liquid manure water every day. Keep all laterals removed, and just as the buds begin to show, strew a liberal sprinkling of flour of bone on the sand on which they stand. As soon as the bud that is to remain is selected, and the others are removed, handle and size them, giving to each plant three inches of space each way, and place them where they are to remain trit/ionf hciiu/ diMirrJx'd ((gain until the flower is perfected. It will be but a few days before the roots will go through the bottom of the pot and spread out like a fan in search of the bone. This will cause the plants to produce flowers of enormous size compared with the amount of pot room given to the roots, and when placed where the size of the pot and bloom can be compared, beholders are filled with wonder and amazement at tlie result. Of course the}' are in blissful ignorance as to the cause, but that does not warrant any one in saying it is a trick. There are no tricks in our business. They were all appropriated by the trades which preceded us. If it is desired to exhibit any of these in pots, the roots should be severed that are outside of them, and in doing this no harm will result to the blooms if they have matured, and if tliey are kept liberally supplied with water. Changes are taking i)lace yearly thi'ough the intro- l>i() How TO Grow ('it Flowers. (luction of new seedlings, some of which prove supe- rior to existing varieties of the same shade. For this reason no list can be given which can be expected to stand intact for many years, but the following are some of those best adapted to growing for cut flowers, and the future will have to produce a more perfect list, before these will be supplanted : Joseph H. White, Ivory, Minnie Wanamaker, Flora Hill, Niveus, for white. For yellow, H. E. Wiedner, (Jolden Wedding, W. H. Lincoln. Pink — Vivian Morel, ^lermaid, Ada Spalding. The chrysanthemum has always been considered as healthy and rugged as a weed, but experiences of the past year prove that this plant also is liable to disease. Eel worms liave been found in the roots in sections where there they have infested the rose. If there is any indication of their being present in either the soil or manure used for chrysanthemums, the same measures of prevention should be adopted as described for the treatment of soil used for roses. In the fall of 1892, a new fungoid disease attacked a bed of chrysanthemums that were being grown for cut flowers. The plants were in a vigorous state of growth at the time, and the gentleman under whose care they were, states that they were treated with the usual fun- gicides but without avail. Mr. Dearness thus describes the disease : " •' The fungus (^an be easily recognized by the dark ("IIRVSANTHEMIMS. 187 blotches, usually about half to three-quarters of in inch in diameter. In these blotches are found the spore heaps or pits and beyond them the leaf turns yellow ; not long afterwards the whole leaf shrivels and is drawn downward to the stem. '' As the hypha' of this fungus grow through the tis- sue of the leaf it cannot be easily reached by external applications. Doubtless the best course is to burn the affected leaves or destroy the i)lant as soon as the dis- ease is observed." Another grower of the chrysanthemum tells me he observed the same disease on some imported plants at about the same time as those just described. These he removed at once and burned them. Evidently this was accomplished before the spores had time to ripen and spread, as he saw no indications of the disease af terwards. The experience of these two growers shows us conclusively, that we cannot be too watchful, and that great care must l)e taken if the disease is once dis- covered, to stamp it out immediately. Th(^ black aphis so troublesome to the chrysanthe- mum is more tenacious of life than the common green fly. If tlie usual fumigation does not destroy it, the plants should be syringed with a strong decoction of tobacco water. 18'S How TO Grow Cut Flowers. CHAPTER XXXV. VIOLETS. The amount of capital invested in tlie production of the violet, while seeminglv small, is in the aggregate a large sum. True, the greater part of it is repn^sented by labor, but in some states and localities much time is devoted to its cultivation. In its native home the win- ters are mild, and here it is found at its best in a night temperature of from forty-five to fifty. Any attempt towards forcing this sweet scented flower through the application of heat, imuiediately defeats the object sought, and natural changes of temperature that come with the advent of s-[)ring, tend to gradually lessen the formation of buds, and at the same tin^e encourage in their place an output of new foliage as the temperature incident to the change is raised. Since the advent a few years since of the disease which has proved so de- structive in some localities, much discussion has arisen in relation to the propagation and growth of the plants, some claiming their vitality was lessened, and their lia- Ijilit}' to disease increased, by a division of the parent stool at the expiration of the flowering season. How- ever this may be, it is the S3'stem i have always prac- ticed, and I have never been troubled Avith the disease. This leads me to the belief that the disease is commu- nicated rather than produced, and that if none has ever appeared, and no interchange of plants brings it on the l)lace, it is immaterial whether the new plants are made ViOI.ETS. IX'.) in September from cuttings, or ])y a division of both the old and new growth in spring. In either case the young plants should be potted and kept cool until the ground can be worked in early spring, when they should be planted. The soil should be in a good state of cul- tivation, and if that removed from the rose houses is spread one or two inches deep and worked into the beds wdiere violets are to be planted, it will be l>enelicial to them. The distance at w^hich they should be planted depends upon the amount of land at one's disposal, and the mode of cultivation it is desired to adopt. If for a wheel hoe, fourteen inches each way will be sufficient ; if by a horse culti vator, eight inches in the row by three feet l)etween. All runners should be removed during the season of growth, but discrimination must be made be- tween thin runn(^rs and the formation of new crowns, and by September there should be from four to eight of these bud producers surrounding the original plant. Many living south of the snow line prefer to Hower them in frames, cliietly l)ecause the preparation for doing so can l)e made at less expense, but in all parts of the north tlie great inconvenience attending their protec- tion from frost in frames, the regulation of temperature, as well as largely increased labors through heavy falls of snow, I'ender house cultivation the more desirable method. Houses ten feet wide facing the south, with I'oof of ereventive. both plants and soil being dusted with it. Mr. Hiehard Donovan, a suceessful grower of the violet near Chieago. recommends the use of the ammonia solution in the following pro})ortions : Three oz. of the earbonate of c()p]>er dissolved in one qt. of ammonia. Use one gill to three gallons of water, and ai>ply to the foliage by means of a syringe onee a week. This will not eradi- cate the disease, Ijut if a])plied as soon as any indica- tions of it are seen, it will do much towards holding it in check. Were it not for these diseases, the Howers would be so alnindant there Avould be no market for them. As it is, a scarcity is caused, and he who succeeds is reason- ablv sure of licing al)le to dis})Ose of his cro]i to advan- tage. CHAPTER XXXVl. mi(;n()>ettk. Vov wintci' cutting, the tirst care is to ol>tain good seed. The giant varieties used for this purpose are not always reliable, and it is a much safer way for each grower to raise his own seed, after once obtaining a strain suited to his trade. 1 *.)(■> How TO Grow Cvr Flowers. When it is desired to gi"ow this in (juantity, the Ijest success will he obtained in a span roof liouse with solid beds on either side of the walk. ( 'ontinnons ventilation should be supplied in the same way as described for carnations, (rood drainage should also l)e provided for tlie beds, after which from 1 whole leaf is destroyed by it. Upon the first signs of its appearance, syringing should be resorted to, using the same formula as given for violets on page 195, and though it may not in all cases prevent its increase, it is as yet the best known agent in that direction. IDS TIow TO (Jj{()\v Cut Flowers. CHAPTER XX XV 11. THE FORCING OF BULBS. So many of our American growers are of foreign })ar- entage, if not themselves born and reared where all that l)ertains to the eare and culture of Inilbous stock is v(m-v familiar, it may seem to them like a waste of space to treat of a subject so generally understood. It must be remembered that with the rapid development of this country, many men are led every year to take up our industry without having had enough special training for it. To such, this chapter will contain as much of interest, ]»rol)ably, as any that have preceded it, and if they are desirous of learning, it will be equally beneficial to them. Whatever bulbs are used for this purpose, it will be to the interest of the grower to purchase none but the best. Xarcissus, Roman hyacinths and tulips are available during August and September. It is much more convenient to })lant these in boxes than in pots. The boxes should be made three inches deep and of a size to economize l)ench room in the house where they are to mature. Xarcissus and white Romans should i)e l)lanted al>out two inches apart, but tulips may be nearer together. In the northern states it is very convenient to have a cold house where they may be stored until the roots are well grown and the bulbs wanted for ma- turing their Mowers. If this is not to be had, water well after planting, and place the boxes on well drained Thk For(IN(; of Brij?s. 19i) <:i-()un(l, arranging' and lalx-ling tliem so tlie kinds wanted for eai'ly tiowering may Ik' readily found. ( Vjver the Itoxes witli about three inehes of soil, and as cohl weather approaches give a covering that will exclude frost, as it is anything but pleasant work to take them out when frozen in one niass. Tulii)s and Romans will not l)e injured l)y light freezing, but narcissus are more tender and will not endure it. Of those mentioned Pa|)er White narcissus are the earliest, and if planted in August the}' lUtiy be brought into flower in Xovem- l»cr. If a succession of ib)wer is desired, l)ring in the number of ])oxes wanted eveiy two weeks, planting and setting away others to take theii' places, but these should have four weeks at least in which to make root, before being })laced in heat. \'on Sion needs the same treat- njciU. but no attempt should l)e made to In'ing it into flower befoi'e the middle or last of Januar3^ Both these and White Romans should be given an inside tem- |)erature of from ()5° to 7t>°. Tulips should all be planted when i-eceive«l and en- couraged to make all the root growth they will. If planted eai'ly, those varieties which are the first to bloom can be brought inside soon after the middle of November and matured in a temperature of from 60° to 7'")°. In order to draw tlu^ stems, some growers place them over the pipes under the bench and curtain the front of the bench to exclude a, portion of the light, ("are must be taken in this case to give them plenty of •200 Plow TO (Ik'ow Cut Fi.owkijs. water. Others grow on the l)enehes in a temperature of 7^-)° to 80°. and cover the under side of the glass with cheese clotli. This also tends to lengthen the stem . The great thing to be assured of is, that all varieties are well rooted. This accomplished, succeeding steps are easy. Freesias should be ])oxed every three or four weeks, allowed to root Avell in a cool room or pit, and brought in as wanted. Tliey require about tlie same tempera- ture as described for Narcissus, and can be brought to bloom in from 12 to 14 weeks after they are rooted. Ihilike the bulbs just descril)e(l, lily of the valley cannot be obtained 1)efore November, and ])i[)S from the new crop can rarely be forced with satisfactory re- sults for Christmas. For this reason a few hirge growers liave built refrigerators in which to store them for use until wanted. Those stored in this way are used through the following fall and early winter, the new crop being used only for h\te winter and spring flower- ing. When the lily of tlie valley arrives it should all be heeled away in sand or soil under some kind of a roof, so that rains shall not drench it. The sand in which the roots are i)acked should be moist, and about two inches should be placed between each row of l)unches. When all are in or the frame is full, cover two inches deep with sand which is not as moist as that used for The Fokcin(; oj- J>rij5s. 201 the r(>oti>. This will protect tlie fiower hiids from tlie direct action of frosts, while the sand below Avill keep them plump. For convenience, the bench in which they are forced shonld not be over two feet wide, and if enough are Fig. 40. handled to be able to devote a house to tlicm it can be ari-ano-ed as seen in Fig. 40. The sides of the bench should be sealed up, doors being provided at the same time for the escape of heat when it is not all wanted •202 How TO Gifow CiT Fi.owEiJS. beneath the l)ench. Cloth screens sliould also be hinged that may be either used on the under side of the glass, or as a cover for the l)eds as desired. Before putting the jnps in the forcing house, trim the roots so they will more readily absorb water. They need not be left more than two inches long. Plant them in the sand in rows, letting the rows be from two to three inches apart according to the amount of foliage they will make. The sand in which they are planted should indicate from S()° to S5°, and the top tempera- ture 6.")°. Use water lil>erally and let it be of the same temperature as the house. After the bells are formed, water must be given between the rows, as the bloom is very easily injured if water comes in contact with it. ^latured flowers may be kept several days by freshly cutting the ends of the stems, changing the water, and keeping them in a cool })lacc. The forcing of lilies has increased rapidly during the l)ast few years. With some growers, near our large cities, these constitute the main crop for Easter. Mr. James Dean, an extensive grower of lilies, thus gives his method of preparing them for Easter: "Fully three-(juarters of all the lilies that are now forced are Harrisii, which is a great deal more profitable to grow, as it flowers more freely than the Longifiorum, and the plants are not liable to come Idind. It can 1)e forced with safety at a higher temiu'rature than the LongiHorum, and if the ])lants are removed to a tem- The Fohcinc; of Jiri.p.s. 203 iK'j-atui'o of 50 (leiiTees at night and given aii- during the (hiy two weeks l>efore the flowers open, they will be just as firm as the Longitiorum and you Avill be able to eut nearly double the number of flowers. Most of the lily bulbs come from Bermuda, arriving here during the months of July and August. On the receipt of the bulbs they are potted in a light, sandy loam to which has been added al)out one-third of well rotted manure, using a o^ and (> inch pot for the o to 7 inch bulbs; a ()T and 7 inch pot for the 7 to 9 inch l)ulbs; and a 7 and S inch pot for the i) to 12 inch bulbs. In potting the bull) we place it about one inch ])elow the surface of soil. They are then set close together in a frame out of doors, given a good watering and covered with a niulch of hay or straw which prevents the soil from drying out so rapidly and saves watering. They can. re- main out of doors until frost comes, although a degree or two of frost will not injure the plants. From the time they are brought into the greenhouse until New Years, a night tem])erature of 40° to 45° with plenty of air during the day is all they ]-e([uire. After New Years they may be removed to another house or the night temperature increased to 60° oi- 6o° and even to 70° if the weather i)roves bad and there i^ little sunshine. Try to have the Hower buds well al)ove the foliage six weeks before Easter, so that stand- ing in the door way of the greenhouse y(^u can plainly see all the buds; bearing constantly in mind that it is 204 How TO (tiu)W Cu'i- Fi.owkks. II great deal easier to hold the tiowers back by .>rows a part or all of his own Howcrs. there exists a necessity for being able to supply the wants of his customers if he would keep l)ace with his competitors in business. To accomplish this in the best way is the object we have under con- sideration. If you have a home trade, and it is of a nature that demands a good line of decorative plants, you can grow a few Orchids with both pleasure and profit to yourself, as well as pleasure, if not i)rotit, to your cus- tomers. It may take a little time to educate people to their use. l)ut you will find it to be a great advertising medium, and if the pul)lie is invited on some special \v TO Oi.'ow Ci'f Flowers. or other accunuilations, after which thorouglily scahl the liou.se. No phice of any size can he considered eonj- plete without having a hoiler for this purpose, no mat- ter what the system of heating may he. Usually this hoiler can he used for other purposes also, — power, tem- })ering of water, or for steam circulation. The interest on two or three hundred dollars hears no comparison to the henefit derived, i^ven if the boiler is used for tliis sole purpose and remains idle ten months of the year. The boiler once set can he attached to tlie water sys- tem, thus iXMjuiring hut little ex])ensc in extra pi})e, and this connection should be made with the"l)lo\v- ofi''' at the rear. When a house is ready for scalding till the l)oiler four-hfths full of water, heat it thoroughly, and when from forty to fifty i)ounds pressure is indi- cated on the steam gauge, draw the tire. Connect a hose Avith the hydrant to be used. Fasten to the end of this a "leader'' in much the same wa}' you would a ring in the nose of an animal. Take the "leader'' in one hand and with a thick glove the hose in the other, open the connecting valves and tiie head of steam will drive all the water from the boiler. With this, thoroughly scald every inch of ground surface, the benches, walls and sides of gutters. By opening the ends of the building before commencing, a draft will be created which will obviate any inconvenience arising from the hot steam, care being taken, of course, to begin at the end at which the draft escapes from the house. Never attempt this Cl.EANMNKSS. 211 without a •' leader" with which to guide th(> stream of l)oiling water as the ju'essure drives it through the hovse. Vou might as well dance around among the folds of a living snake, or attempt to lead a refractory animal with a string. Do not ever commence, either, until the tire has heen drawn from the boiler, or ruin to it will be the result. The under sides of benches sometimts harbor vermin and are hard to reach in all i)arts with the stream of hot water. To make thorougli work, shut the house up tight, and burn sulphur under them. This can be done by means of the stoves spoken of for fumi- gating, or if you do not have these, red hot bricks will answer the purpose. The only care to be taken is not to have plants within reach of the sulphur fumes. Salt is very cheap, and a liberal coat of it applied after this on the ground under the benches will not only })revent weeds from springing u\\ but will render it almost im- possible for insects to burrow and live in the soil. After this has been done, whitewash all interior surfaces of benches and walls. Wash, if needed, and i)aint all roof and gutter work, and you are prepared to commence anew. This process, followed every year, is almost enient ])ot rnck every year. (See Fig. 41.) ri!Ei'A]jArioN oi son.. In this, several things are sought to be accomplished. The decomposition, as well as the preservation of the fibre, destruction of, and protection against insect ene- mies,and thethorough minglingof all ingredients added to tlie soil. At first thought there is a seeming inconsistency in the lirst two, both destruction and preservation being sought in the same thing. This is because time is re- quired to turn the sod and make it tender, but it should not be so thoroughly decomposed as to destroy the tibre and thus allow the soil to pack too closely. All rose soil should contain sod and its roots. If it is a tough old blue grass sod, so much the better. The depth at which it should be taken must be regulated somewhat by the time elapsing l)ef()re needed for use, as well as 1)y the amount of land available. The ideal soil pile is com- posed of sods cut two inches deep and allowed to re- main in the jtile several months before being used. It '214 llow TO (Jkow ('it Flow Kits. ^^hould also 1)0 frozen in all set-tions i)Ossible to do it, in order to destroy worms and insects usually found in grass lands. 8ome recommend cutting and storing in seasons of extreme drought, claiming that in this con- dition no insect life will be found to exist. This I have never proved, but can recommend early winter frosts. If the sod is tough it can be so ])lowed as to stand partially on edge, and in this condition the first cold spell will freeze it thoroughly, after which it can be brought together in a pile, whatever is to be mixed with it added, and the whole be ready for turning early in the spring. This cannot always be accom- plished in this way even in frosty sections, but some means should be devised for its accomi)lishment, and if no other offers, the labor entailed in the plan outlined on page 1(>5 is to be preferred to using soil that has not been thus renovated. There are but few roses that will not l)e benefited by an addition to the soil of at least one-fifth manure— some use as much as one-third. In either case, especially in that of the larger amount, it must have been so well composted when added to the soil, as to have nearly disappeared when the soil is ready for use, or to have become so thoroughly incorporated as to be nearly indistin- guishable. If green manure is all that can be had, not more than one yard, to seven of sod should be used, in which case more dependence will have to ])e had on the various modes of top dressing as the i)lants re- FKirrrFJZKRs. -21.") (liiirc it. Whatever manure is used, it sliould ]><> a))- }>lied in layers as the pile is formed, and when turned, the pile should be cut through in narrow strips from top to bottom and well mixed. Piles put up late in tlie fall will require early and close attention in order to have them in readiness for the first planting. If more time elapses, turning need not be as frequent. In case sutiicient tibre is not present in the soil when gathered, layers of straw through the }>ile and incor- j)orated with it will be of l)enetit, though it will not take the ])lace of good grass sod. FERTILIZERS. For mixing with the soil, nothing equals grain fed cow manure. Avoid distillery products as you would p How lo (Jl{<)\V ClT riJ)\VKIfS. of bone. Imf Ix' '•• purr. Somt' years since the writer lost $2,000 worth of new roses through the use of bone which had been cut with acids. Tlie manu- facturer's purse being the longer, discretion counseled bearing the loss in silence, which was done. This ex- perience leads me to emphasize the advice given, that you know absolutely that the article you are using is pure. With a change of manufacturers I have since found no trouble, and have used it freely every season. This is a matter of so much importance to all growers that I cannot do less than to say the article last referred to is obtained of the Cincinnati Dessicating Co. For field carnations unleached ashes sown broadcast and worked into the soil are very beneficial, they are also good as a top dressing on benches when used in small quantities. It will be remembered the color of To- ronto grown Woottons was referred to in the cultural notes on that variety. Since those notes were written, I have been told by one in whom I have every confi- dence, and who is in a position to know, that the ex- traordinary size and color produced l)y our Canadian growers in this particular variety was the result of a liberal use of unleached hard wood ashes. No oppor- tunity has been had to test this personally since learn- ing of it, and I would say to those disposed to try it. do so carefully until it proves to do for you as it is claimed to do for others. That ashes are good for al- most any field crop is a well known fact, but without Fi:iM'ii.i/i:i;s. 217 liaving given them any very practical test on the rose, I had formed the opinion there were other fertilizers that were better. Nitrate of soda has already been re- ferred to. and it only remains to say in addition, if used at all. let it be with the greatest care. Only a few days since, in visiting a florist in another city. 1 was sur- prised to see the condition of bis roses, as he has the reputation of being a good grower. Enfjuiring the reason, he told me it was through the use of the article in (juestion. Careful man as he is. he had. unwittingly, used enough to burn the surface roots. Action was destroyed, water had to be witldield, and the plants allowed to go dormant for a time, and this during tbe three months when flowers are in the greatest demand. While exceedingh^ sorry for his loss, many of us have been in the same })osition, not fi-om just such a cause, perhaps, Init through over-confidence in what we were trying, either as an experiment of our own, or acting on the advice of others. Another argument for conduct- ing experiments on a small scale. The application of aqua ammonia to the roots of ])lants, has also been referred to. For roses it is some- times 'beneficial when used on the foliage, but I would not advise it, unless from some cause tbey need a quick stimulant late in the season, and tlicn only on plants that are to be rejected at its close. No doubt many of tbese more powerful liquids stimulate a plant to greater exertion for a short time, but as a rule it is safer to con- 21 S How 'I'o (J ROW Ci r l^'i.owK Hs. fine stimulants to such as seem to ])e the natural food of all plants. If your soil has been properly prepared they Avill find in it all the food they can assimilate for the first two months. When the last mulching seems exhausted, li<[ui(ls may be applied with beneficial re- sults if abundant root action is present to absorb it, but it should not l)e given too strong, oi- when the soil is (by. If it is iV)und desiral)le to use liquid food to any extent, use it lightly once or twice a week as the state of the soil demands, and change tlie ingredients from time to time. X peck of fresh cow manure after remaining twenty-four hours in a barrel (►f water will be as strong as should be used. Alternate with the same quantity of sheep manure prepared in the same way, and that with half the (juantity from the poultry yard. This in turn may be changed for one-half pint of a(iua ammonia in a barrel of water, after which conunence with the first if more is needed. Licjuids should nevc^r be a[)p]ied to a di-y soil. If the l)ed has for any reason become dry, or dry in spots, go over it first with clear water giving the larger portion of what is needed in this wav, following with the li(iuid to be jjpplied. Experience and watchfulness alone can reg- ulate the amount and frequency of the applications. Horn shavings are used l)y some, both in the soil and by letting them stand in water a few days and then using the liquid. 1 also know of some wlio will not use them the second time, having had all the ex- Fkutii.izfjjs. 2111 perience they desire in tliat line already. While some have used them successfully, they are dangerous and should be avoided. Brirmr of tri/iiKj iicir thinijs on a lan/c sni/c^ before prov- ing them foi- yourself. This has not reference so much to plants as to methods of l)uilding, food given to plants, or any treatment not in accord with past expe- rience or good common sense. Experimenting is one of the ways by which we learn, but it should be con- ducted on a small scale until proved to be both useful and reliable. The instance recently cited of the loss that attended the use of nitrate of soda, is only one of the many whei'c great loss has occurred through using certain things largely on the recommendation of others. ^5,(KJ0 would not compensate the man of my ac(juaint- ance who risked liis crop in the season of '02 on horn shavings. Opportunities for success coming with each year, if lost, never come again; a whole year's work is blotted out. Worse than that, there is danger that the savings of years ol toil may go with it. Some years ago an ac(juaintance conceived the idea that his hot watei- pipes needed a preservative, so during the early fall he gave them a coat of coal tar. A more senseless thing was never thought of, and still we occasionally hear of a case of tliis kind, and they are always at- tended with the same results, a total lo.ss of the crop for the season. It is to be ho})ed the next generation Avill l)e wiser. •2'20 How TO (fHow CiT Fij)\vKi;s. A more recent error — for mistake I believe it to l)e — is the use of soil for any jmrpose but field work, that has been used in the houses one season. Rejected rose soil is rich in unspent food, and will bear al)undant crops in the field where it can ]>e fully (exposed to sun- shine and air, but I have never seen good n^sults from its use for any crop the second year, indoors. When used for potting, as it sometimes is, instead of great white feeding roots being tlirown out, they are often small and wiry, and plants are not apt to flourish in it. As I write the case of two growers comes to my mind who are lamenting the fact that they persuaded them- selves the i)ast season to plant their carnations in spent rose soil, an experiment they will not try again, as it has lessened the production by at least one- third. Considerable has been written m relation to this matter of late by growers having a soil composed largely of mica. This soil seems to be well adapted to tlie growth of the carnation, cultivators telling us but little manure can be used with it, and while those in possession of soil of this nature may be able to use the same more than one year, the rule does not hold good with soils that must be heavily fertilized. The writer dried out a pile of rejected rose soil the past season, thinking thus to sweeten and counteract any sourness there might l)e in it, and used it for carnations. The result is not satisfactory, leadingto the conclusion that the best is none too good for artificial growtli. For all ('uri)K Oil. 221 fiowering plants u^e nothing but new, fret^li, sw(>et soil. Make it rich with all the food the plants will assimi- late, but let the l)asis of it each and every year, be virgin sod fresh from the field. CRUDE OIL. The use of this as a preservative is advocated by many, w hile others are emphatic and decided in their belief that it is injurious. The writer once washed w ith it some new boards used in a partition wall. The l)ench near them was afterwards planted to Duchess of Albany, time enough having elapsed for the oil to become perfectly dry and all scent to evaporate. The result was, these plants rusted l)adly, while others, from the same lot, planted on another bench, in the same kind of soil, all the conditions in fact being the same save in the use of the oil. remained perfectly healthy. No form of })lant life seems to have any affinity for this product when brought in contact with it in any quan- tity, and it seems reasonable to suppose small quantities are proportionately injurious, though it may scarcely l)e perceptible. I would much rather chance a bed covered with decomposed hops than coal oil, whether for the growth of carnations or roses, and even if the result required a renewal of the lumber one-third sooner in the former case, I believe tliat the increased product would more than compensate for its early decay. It is best to keep on the safe side of all things about wliich '2'2'2 How TO (l}{r)\v ('it Fl.oWF.fJS. cultivators disagree. We oftentimes see roots growing in the decayed tissues of the hench when the soil is re- moved, l)Ut I do not helieve that any one ever saAv the same where the hench had Ijeen washed Avith crude oil the fall hefore. Lime we know is a preservative in a small degree, hesides l)eing food for plants. If any part of a huilding is henefited hy its use without injury to a croi>, it is the posts which form the walls, hut an exterior coat is claimed l)y some to he injui'ious to the timher if applied while the sap is present in the wood. If the posts are seasoned and placed in a vat and the pores allowed to fill with the oil, there can he little doubt hut what the life of the tind)er is greatly length- ened. Another preservative of wood is cement, some claim- ing the life of a l)ench is twice as long when waslied with this yearly. However this may be. from the na- ture of the material it seems safe, and is to be com- mended on that account, if it is desired to use any- thing l)ut lime for this purpose. RKSTOIUNc; LOST VITALITY TO liOSES. In relation to the necessity of this, oi)inions vary, some claiming that a ceaseless round of propagation and growth of our tea roses will, in the end. produce this result. The writer has never experienced any neces- sity for taking rested stock for this purpose. As usu- ally advocated, it is a very expensive method to follow. IJi:>'i'()i;i.\(; Lost N'lTAi-riv i*! Uosks. '2'2'.\ ve( quiring for its accomplislimeiit two seasons of growth. The vitality of a tea rose is often imi)aire(l througli the ignorance or neglect of conditions i)ertaining to a liealthy growth, and when the jdant sickens, or ceases to br protital)le as a [)roducer. it is easy to see that its vitality is impaired, but tlie cause is sometimes mis- stated, and should be laid at the door of the operator, in8tealock of houses for summer growing exclusively. In these such of the winter flowering varieties as will thrive in a summer temperature will be planted, and from the dormant wood of these, after the term of flowering is over in the fall, a series of experiments will be made in ordtn* to fully test th(^ advantage, if any. that is to be derived IVom a })artial rest. Any gi'ower who has stock in a condition to try this method, can easily satisfy himself as to its utility, without the risk of loss or ex}>ense. The cutting.s should be treated much as are those of hard wood, rooted slowly in a cool house, but after once rooted no check should ever be i)er- mitted to occur in theii- growth. i)isi;ri)i)iN(; roses. During the summer it is bettei" to let no buds ma- ture, but the practice of ni})})ing them out as soon as they appear is to be deprecated, as it leaves a mass of (\ves on unri])e wood. an A LEAK. Leaks in heating pipes sometimes occur at a time when fires cannot be dispensed with long enough to repair them permanently. If these leaks are found to be caused by a flaw in the pipe, or by an 0})ening seam, they can be controlled temporarily in the following manner: Mix fine sand with white lead until it is of the consistency of putty ; spread this half an inch thick on a strip of canvas, long and wide enough to cover the rent ; if i)0ssible shut off the pressure of steam, or flow of water; ajjply the cement and canvas to the pipe, and bind it securely with a canvas bandage. When this is accomplished take some strong cord, commence at one end winding tight and close, until the whole surface is firmly covered with the cord. Great damage can often be prevented in this way, especially when cast iron pipe fails at a season of the year at which permanent repairs are impossible. Should a seam open in a steam pipe which is re- quired to resist several pounds of pressure, and at a time when permanent repairs cannot be made, split a piece of rubber hose and lay it over the seam. Cover this with a semi-circular piece of iron that will fit the pipe closely. Fasten all to the pipe by means of clamps similar to those used to fasten wood work to the axle- 228 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. tree of a buggy. If one is living at a distance from where these materials can be quickly obtained, it will be prudent to have a few on hand before the commence- ment of cold weather. The following advertisements have the endorsement of the author of this book. First, because he has had occasion to prove their worth in his own business. Second, because a personal acquaintance with the men and firms they represent, has satisfied him they are men worthy of the confidence of all tradesmen. .. PURE.. BONE FLOUR Manufactured with great care for the special use of R05E GROWERS AND ♦ GREENHOUSE MEN POSITIVELY FREE FROM SULPHURIC ACID. Prices and samples furnished on application to CINCINNATI DESICCATING CO. No. SSI West Sixth St. CINCINNATI, OHIO. Greenhouse Construction Lumber. SHORT SPAN TO THE SOUTH. THREE QUARTER SPAN. GABLE ROOF. See opposite page. (B^een\^e^he> ©or^^tpcaetioi^^- J0I79 (^. fr\09i9(^er Successor to John L. Diez & Co., MANUFACTURER OF (pFess Roildinii 4* MaM, -FOR Grcenl^olises, Roscl|oases ai^d (Toi^scrVatorics. Office and Factory, 297 TO 307 HAWTHORN AVE. CHICAGO, ILLINOIS Catalogue on Ttpplication. LOWE BROTHERS HIGH STANDARD LIQUID PAINTS ARE MADE FROM HIGHEST GRADES OF STOCK Expressly for Painters' Vs^. For Florists' Use our "Outside White," Properly used, wiH wear longer, look better, cover more surface, rub out better under the brush, fade less and more uniformly, and prove more economical to the consumer than Pure Linseed Oil and White Lead mixed by hand. LOWE BROTHERS, Manufacturers, DAYTON, OHIO. THE FI^UUTUESS FViRWlIkU 5TEAM AND HOT WATER BOILERS For GREENHOUSE HEATING. Used in I IJ --i '"lif — '^■^M w^'^i Green- houses of the Principal Agricul- ^^^ tural Colleges urman ;:s"' Nii;i,,i;;,:;":«ii ECONOMICAL, SUBSTANTIAL, SAFE. SCREW JOINTS Hence no leakage. Vertical Circulation ; rapid flow. Cool Smoke Pipe : Econom}^ in Fuel. Large Fire Box ; requires very little attention. Send for Our Large Catalogue and Book on "flodern Qreen= house Heating"— FREE. HERENDEEN MF'Q CO. lO Fay St., GENEVA, N. Y. The Evans Improved Challenge Roller Bearing Ventilating This the Best! Apparatus. Why? No pull on the roof. Xo friction on tlie pipe. Self acting. Operates quicker and easier. A ciiild can operate a loo foot house. The only H^ roller bearing ventilating apparatus 1^ on the market. Roller bearing is to a ventilating apparatus as ball bearing is to a bicycle. Illustrated catalogue free. Address, QUAKER CITY MACHINE CO. Richmond, Indiana. KEEP YOUR ^ ON US. EVERY WIDE-AWAKE, PROGRESSIVE FLORIST WHEN NEEDING CUT FLOWERS, FLOWER SEEDS, FALL BULBS, SPRING BULBS, OR FLORISTS' SUPPLIES OF ANY KIND WHATEVER TURNS FIRST TO HUNT As it is well known he keeps neari^y everything the trade requires. E. H. HUNT, SEEDSMAN, r^ Lake Street. CHICffGO, ILL. fi<^",SEND FOR Catalogue. John Davis Company, 69 to 79 nichigan Street, CHICAGO. CONTRACTORS FOR QREEN= HOUSE HEATING APPARATUS AND DEAIvERS IN All Kinds of Material FOR QREEN=HOUSE =:= HEATING. Write for Prices. ESTABLISHED 1854. INCORPORATED 189: FRANK DAN. BLISH, President. WELLS B. SIZER, Vice-President. DANIEL W. BLISH. Secretary. ARTHUR HATFIELD, Treasurer. Steam ^^ Hot Water Boilers yir-4//!'A SCHILLER No. 9 HOT WATER BOILER, As used in Greenhouses of M. A. Hunt and many others. Photographs on receipt of inquir}-. Shops, Fifty=Sixth and Wallace Sts. OFFICE, 189 STATE ST., CHICAGO, U. 5. A. ROSE LEAF Extract of Tobacco. SURE DEATH .. to all insects infesting Greenhouses, and a certain cure for tlie diseases caused by Para= site Life to ... FLOWERS, VEGETABLES and PLANTS. Also an Excellent FERTILIZER. For Particulars as to its use. see Pasre ii6, this Book. Packed in 5 Gallon Cans. F»rice $1.50 per gallon, F. O. B. MANUFACTURED BY LOUISVILLE SPIRIT CURED TOBRGGO GO. LOUISVILLE, KV., U. S. A. r\oore and Langen • • • a2 II south F«th Printers Book Binders BlanKBooUnaKers Specialty- w ' hi « m '■'k '^-:^^m '^- yjjr~'\^vO~ ft. ^/ M ■r^i ^i.;;: >^ ?j' \ ii^ /, |m:y\^^ yi**. •iiV^S:^^^- H ^4^ 'i^'Si,!'^ ■-^'/=«,'. '^^^ ,,'^*""" ^^s»i ^*'-^-,^'fjl-^fe'"'- ■.^#:^:(;^p|| Ai. 9^. ■r^ M' /•"<:-'-. ■^r^'' '^;Smr'0 "^'^i^i^'^ft fr^ 1:':l ^V'> ^v* '^^V '^/ A%S- ^^"C 5'^^ 2^ -i-^ :'iy ^;^'.