a?* /% ^T«' A % C IV. *> ^ & o ,% , o « « j CpV . . s * A ^°<* -^/ ° c PIONEER LIFE; OR, CJjirtg gears a punter. i> * BEING r i SCENES AND ADVENTURES IN THE LIFL OP PHILIP TOME, FIFTEEN \!A.nS INIEUPSETEE FOR COBWPLANTEB AND CHIErS ON THE ALLEGANY RIVER. BUFFALO: PUBLISHED FOE THE AUTII » E 1354. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by James Faxon, i-n the Clerk's Office of the Northern District cf New York. I N T R D UC T I N . In presenting the following incidents of my life, to the public, I do not intend to claim for it beaut v of expression, for it is the production of one bom in the wilderness; one who is more conversant with the howl of the wolf and panther, and the whoop of the savage, than the tones of oratory, as heard in civilized life. It is said that truth is often more strange than fiction ; and those in pursuit of the marvelous will not be disappointed in perusing these rage's. fhey are full of scenes in Border Life, accidc- and hair-breadth escapes. The lover of the hunt will find faithfully por- trayed, the exciting scenes of the chase, the £ . with the elk, the wolf and the panther, and herein be enabled to gather the experience of nearly half a century as to the best mode of securing ever/ description of game to be found in- our fbrest3. 1 Yl INTEODUCTION. The general reader will find it replete with scenes of wild, stirring and thrilling ^interest ; it being the narrative of one who, in all the scenes of border life was never conquered by man or animal. P T. Corydon, Pa., April, 1854. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PARENTAGE AND EARLY LIFE, - - 9 CHAPTER U. HUNTING THE ELK, - - 18 CHAPTER HI. CAPTURING A LIVE ELK, - - -23 CHAPTER IV. FACE OP THE COUNTRY, - - - - - 33 CHAPTER V. FACE OF THE COUNTET— CONTINUED, - - 46 CHAPTER VI. DANGER FROM RATTLESNAKES, - 55 CHAPTER VII. WOLF AND DEER HUNTING-, 67 CHAPTER VHI. ANOTHER ELK HUNT, - - - 74 CHAPTER IX. ELK HUNTING ON THE SUSQUEHANNAH, 92 V1U COiXTEBls. PAGE. CHAPTER X. ELK HUNTING ON THE SUSQUEHANN AH— CONTINUED, 109 CHAPTER XL NATURE, HABITS, AND MANNER OF HUNTING THE ELK, ----... 11^ CHAPTER XII. ELK AND BEAR HUNTING IN WINTER - - 124 CHAPTER XHL HUNTING ON THE CLARION RIYEE, - - - 139 CHAPTER XIV. HUNTING AND TRAPPING, - - - * - - 150 CHAPTER XV. THE BEAR — ITS NATURE AND HABITS, - - 164 CHAPTER XVI. HUNTING DEER AT DIFFERENT SEASONS, - 176 CHAPTER XVII. nature and habits of the panther, wolf and fox, 186 CHAPTER XVIII. < RATTLESNAKES AND THEIR HABITS, - - - 193 CHAPTER XIX. DISTINGUISHED LUMBERMEN; &C, - - - 202 CHAPTER XX. REMINISCENCES OF CORNPLANTEE, - - 208 CHAPTER XXL INDIAN ELOQUENCE, - - - 220 CHAPTER L BIRTH AND EARLY LITE. I was born March 22d, 1782, in Dauphin County, Pennsylvania, near where the city of Harrisburg now stands. My parents were both of German extraction. They moved up the Susquehannah River about ninety miles in 1786, traveling in a keel boa' there being no roads or other mode of conveyance. They landed at a place called Farris Creek in what was then Northumberland county, and remained* there about four months, when the Six Nations oi Indians began to trouble the inhabitants on the west branch of the Susquehannah. We then moved back into Cumberland county, five miles from, Harrisburg, on the west side of the Susquehannah. At that time the Indians distressed the inhabitants for about eight- een months. We remained there two or three years, when, the Indians having become peaceable, we re- turned up the river, and stopped at Warry Run, about two miles above the junction of the two branches of the Susquehannah. 10 pioneek lite; or, In 1791, my father purchased some land about seventy miles up the west branch of the river in the wilderness. He hired men and paid them in advance to build a house. They did not fulfil their contract, but having raised and enclosed it, left it without chimney, door, window, or floor, while the bushes ten feet high were left standing in the middle of the house. On the first of November my father started lor his residence, and loaded a keel boat with provis- ions sufficient for one year, irons for a mill, and a supply of clothing. He was six days going fifty miles. He then arrived at the mouth of Pine Creek, six miles from his destination, but could proceed no farther with his boat, on account of low water. He then hired ten canoes, and started with such articles ae he most needed. He arrived at his house the 20th of November. It was very cold; the men had been dragging the boats, and the women were nearly frozen. "When within two miles of the house two of the men who assisted in building it asked the privilege of going ahead to make a fire. When we arrived in sight vre saw a large fire, which revived our spirits greatly, for the snow was falling rapidly, the wind blew cold. and we were chilled through. A hole had been left for a chimney, and a fire built on that side of the house, and when we arrived the men were cutting out the brush. My father asked why things had been left in this state. They replied that they could not induce the other men to proceed any farther with the' job. Father then demanded why they had THIRTY TEAKS A HUNTER. 11 not informed him a day or two earlier, and was in- clined to be somewhat angry, when my mother inter- posed, and said if we could get through the first night it would do. We soon became warm, had our supper, went to sleep and passed the night very comfortably. The next morning all hands went to work and made a floor and chimney, and plastered the house, and accomplished it in two days. On the 25th my father commenced his mill. He had to hew and split out all the timbers to be used for building. He had also a race to dig and a dam to build, and he had it all finished by the first of March. At that time game, such as bears, elk, deer and wild turkeys were very plenty in that section of the country. I had two brothers old enough to hunt, but they had no gun except an old musket which my father had used while training. In the morning we would frequently find the deer feeding within twenty rods of the house. Sometimes, wo would see a drove of elk, fifteen or twenty in number, crossing the river. At other times we saw bears traveling back and for- ward. But we had no hunters among the six men, and no gun but the old musket, and that was out of order. On the 5th of December two of our nearest neighbors, (who lived twelve miles distant) came to see us, bringing two guns and two dogs, but no am- munition. There was no powder or lead in that part of the country except what my father had, and he supplied them what they needed. They then hunted about two days for my father to procure him a supply of wild meat. Notwithstanding they were little ski^i :z h— :izir. sad lift -=W&er w*s ^sfiTersbk, tiser t2kd ftar deer, lad two burse to I_; ~::-:5- _:.:: z: _ ~:f '.-.r.y zz:'.-: z: r;z: ;: ;:if- zz;.zzi ::" -rzzz :.: ::; z:: z:>: --: z:zzz:: zs :_- "lz:;izf I-jr :zzz; .7 L:i --i: ~"i -;.:: i ziz_- ■:::■:£ :: - — :. :z ~i.:: : r~ ;. ;zz ::I :z^z: ;:::: /_:. z::^ zz z szzz;. '" ' z::z:z * 1 ;z : zr:~:z '.: zzi zzs: :.:z ~~zs ;.:.:: :~-;.~: z ..- ._: zzzi :zz:z^:z r'.ir zz~;i zr zzr r~fr :r;~ :_c _:_'_ -Z :_f ~:i*. 5::: 1 zzzz z : zzzz;z ~z_ ?:-:-: 7 :::z~ r.ifi iizzzzz^: :~:: '.z:- ^ fe tie be%at of two mites aad m isal£ : :: i::.: ~i lz=- rz-^i ::.::: izr*f ::zr±s : ... -_ - • zea uumri orer to the east skfc _ - - ■ ■ _ : ■ . - ~ '.--. zi-iz : : 1* *_t z:~"_ :: ;;: zzs~ : :z :: r z; THTBTT YEAB3 A HTTSTEP.. 13 I will now lay before the reader the height of the mountains, the kind of game that is to be found on them, and other particulars of the country, from the mouth of Pine Creek to the first point Every family owned a canoe for the purpose of traveling up and down the river. In winter they had good ice to travel on, which lasted about three months. That was the season in which the greatest amount of busi- tM done by the settlers. The mountains were about a mile in height, and abundance of deer, bear?, foxes, wolves and panthers, but no elk were fou: them. The most successful mode of killing deer from the first of June to the last of September was to fire-hunt them, which was done in the following manner: The deer would come to the river after dark to eat the moss which grew on the bottom, and collect together about the ripples, in groups from three to ten. The hunters would build a fire of yellow pitch pine in the middle of a canoe and station a man in the stern to steer, and one or two more in front to fire at the deer. When there were no deer in sight they could push and paddle the canoe along. When they came within sisrht of the deer the canoe was allowed to float down with the current, and the steersman laid it in a position the most advantageous for those who were in the bow with guns. The deer would generally raise their heads and stand looking at the fire until the canoe came within a few yards of them. The hunters could judge by their movements whether thev would make a break or stand still until thev II came near them, and tired or not according to tha movements of the deer. When the deer attempted to run out of the water where the bank was bluff and steep, they would see their own shadows, and think- ing it was a dog or a wolf, would utter a cry and spring back into the water, sometimes coming near enough to the canoe to give the hunters two or three more shots at them. In this manner they would kill from one to four deer in one place. Having dressed and laid out the meat on the shore, they would pro- ceed down the river in search of another group. If the night was favorable, from three to ten deer were killed in this manner. On their return they would fish for eels, salmon and other fish, and take in their venison as they came along. Their canoes were capable of carrying from 2,000 to 4,000 pounds with safety. With a five-tined spear they would take from twenty to sixty eels and a large quantity of salmon; and in the morning return home with iish and venison bufficient to supply an ordinary family two months. A woman belonging to a family residing on the bank of the creek, about half a mile above the first fork, was washing at the creek, accompanied by four or five small children, when one of them looking up the stream exclaimed, "What a handsome big red dog is coming ! " The animal made a halt on the top of the bank within fifty feet of the children, and stood looking at them. Another boy cried " It isn't a dog; it is a panther ! " At that moment a cat came out of the house, and the panther made a gpring at her, when she ran up a tree, followed by HiafT YEARS A HUNTER. 15 the panther. The cat leaped from the tree, and the panther seized her just as she struck the ground. The family hurried into the house and closed the doors, and thus escaped. After the panther had devoured the cat he stood looking at the house and moved along the path. In about half an hour a neighbor came along with a dog and gun. The pan- ther continued to move slowly off, and the woman came out and acquainted the neighbor with the cir- cumstances. He immediately started in pursuit, and the panther being driven up a tree by the dog, was brought to the ground by a well-aimed shot. It was a very large one, measuring four and a half feet from the tip of the nose to the tail. ^ Two miles from that place, up Big Pine Creek, lived a family consisting of a man and three females. The house stood on a flat lying between the river and the rocky bluff, which rose to the height of forty or fifty feet. In the month of January the man was absent teaching school, and no one was left at home but the women. On the morning of a blus- tering day in the early part of the month, as one of the women was going to the river for a pail of water she heard a scream proceeding from the side of the hill, which sounded like the voice of a woman in distress. She returned into the house and told the others that she thought there was woman on the hill in trouble. They all went to the door to ascer- tain the source of the cries, when they saw moving toward them an animal which they took at first for a dog. When it had approached within fifty yards, 16 PIONEER LIFE ; OR, they discovered to their horror that it was a panther. They retreated into the house and closed the doors. Three geese which belonged to the family were on the ice of the river ; the panther discovered them, and having captured one, he returned with it to his den among the rocks. After he had been gone some time, they went out together and procured wood and water enough to supply them until the next day. The following morning at about the same hour, the panther returned, uttering the same terrific cries, and carried away another of the geese. On the third morning he again made his appearance and took the remaining goose. He had now become wonted to the vicinity, and the terrified women were at a loss what they conld do. Their nearest neigh- bors were distant two miles in one direction, and three in the other, and any attempt to procure succor from that source would expose them to an attack from the animal which was prowling near. In order to prevent the panther from entering by the chim- ney, they covered it over witli boards taken from the floor, and kept up a fire all night. The next morn- ing, when the too familiar cries of their besieger were heard, they turned out the dog. The panther closed in with him, drove him against the door, and after a short struggle killed and carried him off. The morning following, Eice Hamlin, who lived about three miles distant, and who had been en- gaged to call on them once a week, to supply them with fire-wood and render any necessary assistance, paid them his customary visit. When he knocked THTBTT YEAE8 A HUNTER. 17 at the door they demanded who it was that desired admittance. Upon learning who was at the door they opened it at once, and informed him of the visits of their unwelcome neighbor. lie entered, and they cleared the house of the smoke, which had become almost suffocating. As he stepped to the door to see if the panther was near, Hamlin heard his scream. He immediately started in pursuit, ac- companied by his dog. As they came up, the pan- ther jumped upon a rock about twenty-five feet high. Hamlin did not discover him at first, but kept up a search, supposing him to be up a tree. The dog saw the panther, but being unable to follow, kept running around in an uneasy manner. Hamlin at length happened to look up the rocks and his eyes met those of the panther, just as the latter was about to make a spring upon him. Instantly bringing up his gun, he fired with an unerring aim, and the animal came tumbling heavily to the ground at Hamlin's feet. The ball had penetrated its forehead. It was a very large one, weighing about two hundred pounds. CHAPTER II. HUNTING THE ELK. In August, 1795, my father, Jacob Tome, Jerry Morrison and myself started for an elk hunt. Tak ing salt and flour with us, we pushed up our canoe to a place called Hound Island. After hunting two days among the islands, we became convinced tha< there were no elk there, although they were some times very plenty, collecting at this season in droves Morrison proposed that we should proceed to i point called Stony Lick, about seven miles back, on the east side of the river, at the second fork of Pine Creek, and twelve miles above their junction. My father readily consented to the proposal, as Morrison was an older and more experienced hunter than he. When we arrived within two miles of the Lick, wo discovered the tracks of two elks, a buck and a doe. We followed the tracks about half a mile, when we judged by the indications that they had taken a great leap, as if suddenly frightened. The trails from that place took a different direction. My father and Morrison followed the buck, while I took the track of the doe, keeping sight of my companions at the same time. Before I had proceeded far, I found some of the small intestines of the doe upon the THEBTT YEAB8 A HUNTER. 19 ground. I called to the others to come, and before they arrived I found the entrails strewn all along the track. My companions now came up, and Morrison said it was the work of a panther. After following the track a short distance we found the doe lying dead, and bearing marks which fully confirmed Morrison's conjecture. She was completely disem- bowelled, her throat torn open, and her blood suoked. We skinned her, salted the meat in the skin, and put it away between two logs. We now resumed our route for Stony Lick, and encamped near there that night. About eight o'clock the next morning, while we were preparing to return to the meat we had left the previous day, and- see if it had been disturbed by the panther, we heard the roar of an elk. Morrison decided at once that it was the buck which we had been tracking, and started in pursuit, taking with him his dog. If he could not shoot him, he was to let the dog chase him down. My father and I re- mained at our encampment waiting to hear the dis- charge of Morrison's gun. After goinV half a mile he met the elk coming on his back track, and browght him down at a distance of about sixty yards. We cut off his horns, which were upward of ♦six feet in length, having eleven branches — six on one horn, and five on the other. The carcass weighed between five and six hundred pounds. Our next object was to get him down to the water where we could skin him. This was finally accomplished after three hours dragging and rolling. Father and Morrison commenced skinning the buck, and asked me if I 20 . pioneer life; of, was willing to go where we had left the doe,"about three-quarters of a mile distant, and see if it had been disturbed. I roadily consented, on condition that they would allow me to take a gun and the two dogs. I was but thirteen years old, and they thought I would not venture so far from them. As I was starting away, I overheard Morrison saying to my father, " You will see him coming back soon " My father, however, said if I started he did not think I would return without seeing the doe. I went, and finding every thing undisturbed, returned to my companions. They finished skinning and salting the elk about two o'clock, and Morrison proposed to go himself over to Mud Lick, about two miles distant, on the east branch of the second fork, and see if any elk had been there, while my father and I were to watch for them at Stony Lick. We were to meet in the evening where we had skinned the elk. We went down to the Lick and concealed ourselves be- hind some logs. My father commenced mending his moccasins* and directed me to watch the Lick. I stationed myself in front of some roots, out of my father's sight. A small stream ran below me, in which were some very fine large trout. The stream was very shallow, and it occurred to me that if I could stop the water, I might throw out some of the trout So I slipped down to the stream, unper- ceived by my father, went up past him, threw an old log across, and gathered moss and stopped the water. Then I went below, and threw out some thirty fine large trout. My father looked after me, and seeing THIJBTY TEAKS A HUSTEB. 21 what I was doing, asked me laughingly if that was the way I watched the Lick. I replied that I wanted some trout for supper. While I was stringing my fish I heard a stone rattle about a hundred yards below me. I turned, and saw a panther looking at nae. I sprang up the bank and informed my father what I had seen. Telling me to keep quiet, and make the dog lie down, he stationed himself behind a root having a hole in it, through which he pointed his gun, and waited the panther's approach. When it had come within three rods of us, it paused, with its fore feet upon the bank, and its mouth open, dis- playing a formidable array of glistening teeth. My father fired, and it fell back dead. The ball had passed through its open mouth, and broken the ver- tebrae of the neck. We cut it open and left it there. It was larger than any panther I ever Saw before or since, and I have seen some thirty : we supposed it to weigh between two and three hundred pounds. When we returned to the camp we found Morrison there before us. We now brought our venison toge- ther, and built a scaffold upon which we placed it to dry. It may be well here to describe the manner of preserving elk's meat in the summer. It is firs 4- cut in thin slices, and salted down in the skin. We always carried a bag of salt with us for that purpose. Two large poles are laid across crotches about five feet high, and a number of smaller ones are laid across these. After the meat has lain a sufficient length of time in the skin, it is spread upon this scaffold, and a slow fire built under it. The fire is 22 pioneer life; ok, gradually increased and the meat turned until it it dried through. In t'us state it is called jerk. Leaving nay father to attend to this, Morrison and I started for home to procure horses with which to draw home our meat, going by way of the creek. It was twelve miles to the first fork, and four miles farther to Morrison's residence. I staid with Morri- son that night, and the next day went home, seven miles, took two horses and returned to Morrison's that night. When I arrived there, I found a man from Maryland, who wished to go into the woods and hunt elk. He took our horses, and Morrison's brother-in-law took two others, with whieh they started for the encampment, which they reached that night. The next day they loaded and came to Morrison's, and the following one we went home to my father's residence with his share of the venison and !>iso directed me to take particular notice when I saw an elk lick, or a place where elk were plenty, as any information on this point would be of service whenever we should wish to hunt. I was very much pleased with this last remark, as I was very fond ot 40 pioneer lite; oe, hunting. We started the next morning, and went up the river about twenty-one miles. We there unload- ed the boats, and all hands proceeded to build a large house and cover it with bark. In two days we had it raised and covered, when we left a man named John Church, with two pack-horses, to finish it. We divided into three companies, each consisting of two men to carry chain, one to blaze, and one surveyor. I went with Mr. Harris, as chain bearer. We com- menced on the east side of the stream, and surveyed back about sixteen miles. The following Sunday we laid by fifteen miles east of Pine Creek. Our pack- horse man came to us about twelve o'clock on Mon- day with a supply of provisions for the following week. We surveyed northward for two days, then touli a westerly course to Big Pine Creek, at a place called Round Islands, having been twelve days in the woods. Within this time I found three elk licks on our route. This was near the last of May. The elk were on the small streams, living on the new feed, and going toward Pine Creek to eat the moss. I then discovered where the elk crossed from the east to the west. I found that on the west side there were more indications of their going and returning, than on the east side. At the Round Islands our pack-horse man again brought us a supply of provisions. We then sur- veyed westward about fifteen miles. Here we made an encampment, and were again met by our pack- horse man with supplies. We then surveyed east to Pine Creek, near our block-house. We had then been THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 41 out from our place of rendezvous about a month. We were joined at this point by the three other com- panies. One of our pack-horse men was anxious to change places with some one, as he was not accus- tomed to the woods, and did not like to lie out alone for fear of wolves and panthers. Mr. Harris asked if any of the men in the company of surveyors was willing to pack. They all declined, when one named John Strawbridge asked me if I was not willing to take the post. I consented to try it for two or three weeks. On Monday all hands started from the camp and two companies went to the west side to survey. On Tuesday morning I took two horses loaded with provisions and started for the two companies on the west side of the river. I had to go about nine miles up the creek before I struck off to the west. I was to remain by the creek that night, on account of the pasturage it afforded the horses. About three o'clock in the afternoon I unloaded the horses, turned them out to feed, and made a fire. As I was seated by my fire, I heard a strange sound proceeding from some- thing a short distance up the creek. It' wa6 now the last of June, the season for the ^lk to come to the creek and eat moss. I looked up and saw as many as twenty of them, about fifty rods above me. I \et them feed quietly, not caring to disturb them. I ate my supper, looked to my horses, which were feeding on the blue grass, and then went to the river to look again at the elk. The stream was full of them, eating the moss and drinking. Twenty-two more had ar- rived, making in all forty-three. 42 pioneer life; ok, In the morning after I had eaten my breakfast, I loaded my horses and started. When I had pro- ceeded about half a mile up the stream, I found the pack-horse and elk trail which I was to take. About three rods from the creek, nearly the whole herd of elk I had seen the previous night were lying in the trail. When they saw me approaching they sprang up and ran on ahead, keeping the path and tearing up the ground as they ran along, for a mile and a half, when they turned off to the south and were soon out of sight. I went north until I struck the district line, which I kept for sixteen miles, when I encamped for the night, on the head wateis of Ket- tle Creek, finding good pasturage for my horses. At night I was surrounded by wolves, which fright- ened the horses by their howlings so that they came close to the fire. I tied them near the fire, fearing they might become so frightened as to break away and run home. The next morning, after proceeding Fix or seven miles, I arrived about eleven o'clock at a corner where I was to meet the two parties of sur- veyors. Neither party had arrived, and I saw no pasture for the horses. When I had unloaded and made a fire I commenced searching for pasturage. At length I found, about three quarters of a mile from the camp a small brook running through a swale, affording tolerable pasture, to which I led the horses. About dark one company of the surveyors arrived at the camp. The next day about noon, the other party came in. and we all remained there the following night. One of the chain bearers was THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 43 unwell, and they wished me carry the chain for him, and let him take my place with the pack-horse9. I consented to the arrangement, and he returned to the blockhouse. In four days we had completed the surveying which we had anticipated would occupy a week, and accordingly had three days of leisure be- fore the next Monday. We were now at the head waters of Kettle Creek, Cedar Eun, and Sinemahon- ing, which was a good country, with abundance of elk and deer, and some bears. We all had fishing lines, and we determined to employ the first day of our leisure in fishing. My comrade and I descended Kettle Creek about seven miles. There I found on the east side of the creek in the side of the mountain a large elk lick, to which I gave the name of Rock Lick. It was very much resorted to by the elk. As we were returning we 6aw a trail leading to the northeast, which was as fresh and distinct as if cattle had been traveling there. We all met at our camp and had a mess of trout which would have suited the palate of an epicure, had it not lacked the addition of a little salt. As I had another day at my com- mand I concluded to employ it in exploring the country in the vicinity of our camp to see if it was frequented by elk. I accordingly started down the creek, and in going four miles I discovered a great ji umber of elk-paths. After proceeding four miles farther down the stream I arrived at a fork which had its source near the head waters. of the Allegany River. I then returned to the camp, and supped again on trout, which some of our men had caught. 44 pioneer life; or, On Monday morning we commenced our final week's work of surveying, and completed it i as we had anticipated, on Saturday afternoon, at a place called Pine Island. We then started in pairs f jr our block-house. For a mile along the creek the rocks rose perpendicularly to the height of one, two and three hundred feet, and we were compelled to go two miles to the northward of our direct route. We then descended a sort of gully, picking our way along the rugged and broken rock, until we arrived within thirty feet of the bottom, when a perpendicular preci- pice presented itself. We crawled down the face of this by the crevices in its surface, until we reached a a ledge about fifteen feet from the bottom. On the brow of this grew a beech sapling, and near it an iron-wood about ten feet high, with limbs nearly to the ground. My companion, John Strawbridge pro- posed to cut down the iron-wood sapling and trim off the limbs, leaving only a hook at the large end which we could attach to the beech sapling, to assist us down the rocks. We accordingly prepared our hook, when we disagreed as to who should first make the perilous descent. Strawbridge finally broke a couple of sticks and presented them to me, to draw one, and whoever had the longest should take the lead. I drew the longest cut, and prepared to descend. As I was passing down the pole, Strawbridge, who was holding the upper end of the pole, so that it should not slip off the beech sapling, looked over the brow of the ledge and saw a large rattle-snake coiled up m the exact spot where I would alight. He instantly THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 45 called out to me, with an oath, to stop, as a rattle- snake lay coiled up beneath me. I was now about six feet from the top ; to return was impossible, and it was with difficulty that I could maintain my posi- tion. I called to Strawbridge to throw the axe at the snake, which he did, and fortunately hit it so as to disable it. But a new calamity awaited me. A swarm of yellow wasps which were disturbed by our sudden intrusion upon their premises, came at me, striking me in my face and breast. I let go my hold and dropped to the ground, striking within three feet of the snake. Upon examination I found I was not much hurt, and I called to Strawbridge to come down. He refused, being afraid of the wasps. I looked around and found a long sycamore pole, which I cut, and placed against the rocks a short distance from where 1 had descended. He came down, and we started for the camp, which was about four miles distant. When we arrived we found four companies of surveyors there. The next Monday morning, which was about the 5th or 6th of August, I was discharged and returned home. This was the last of my surveying, exploring elk countries and searching for elk-licks that year. CHAPTEE V. FACE OF THE COUNTRY. In the early settlement of the country, about the year 1792, the manner of life of the settlers, and the hardships and privations they were called upon to endure, rendered them capable iof bearing up under fatigue and exposure, which those more tenderly reared would be unable to surmount. At that time, panthers, wolves, bears, elk, deer, and other wild ani- mals filled the forest, and fish in great abundance, the streams. A person could go up the stream to where a dam had been built, and at any time with a hook and line could in an hour catch trout sufficient for a lanz;e family a day. Quite late one afternoon as I was fishing, I saw a great number of tfout trying to jump over the dam. Two thirds of them suc- ceeded in going over, but some of them would start too far away, and fall upon the dam, where 1 could catch them in my hands. While looking at them I contrived a plan for catching them, which was to set up a board about two feet in width, on the dam, to intercept them, and cause them to fall upon the dam. I at once set to work, and before leaving the place that night I placed boards the entire length of the dam. Early the next morning I took a basket and THIRTY YEAK8 A HUNTEE. 47 proceeded to the^dam. My father asked me, as I was starting, where I was going. I replied that I was going to get some trout. He said that I had not time that morning, and that they did not want the h'sh. But I told him I would return in a short time ; when I arrived at the dam I found as many as half a bushel of trout lodged on it. I filled my basket as quickly as possible, and hurried home. On my arrival there, my father expressing great surprise, inquired how I had caught so many. I informed him ; and ever after, when the water was at a middle stage, we took in this way a great many ; but when the water was high they could go over the dam. We caught eels in great numbers by lifting up the stones under which they were concealed, in the shallow part of streams* We speared a great many of them by night, in the following manner. Torches were made of yellow pitch pine, split fine, about seven feet in length, which threw a light so bright that we could see the fish on the bottom. We went up the stream to fish, as the eels kept on the bars and in the shallow water. My two older brothers and myself went together ; I would draw the canoe, and they take the eels. Sometimes as we were out fishing, deer would come to the river to eat moss, within sight of us. When we saw them, we would all get into the canoe — one held the light, another sat in the forward part of the canoe, generally with two guns, and the third one sitting in the stern, would push the canoe along the stream as carefully as possible. Sometimes we could approach so near as 48 pione:r lifz; or, to shoot them as they raised their heads erect to look at the light. Sometimes they would stand still long enough for the hunter to bring down a second one with the other gun. At other times they would start away, when we would wave the light, and as they ascended the bank they would become - frightened at their shadows, thinking it was a wolf or panther and run directly to the light, where they remained looking at it, till we could get another and perhaps two more shots at them. In tnis manner we would proceed up the stream from fire to six miles, and in that distance we could often kill from two to four deer, and if the night was favorable we could catch from sixty to a hundred eels, besides a quantity of salmon, pike, and rock-fish. We would generally fish while passing up the stream, and hunt in pass- ing down. Fish and venison being so abundant in the vicinity where we lived, and very scarce at the mouth of Pine Creek, twenty-six miles distant, we used them as articles of traffic, and by exchanging them with inhabitants there, for wheat, rye, corn, buckwheat, salt, -leather, and other necessaries, we obtained a supply of those articles. The night before we were to start, we would go up the stream from eight to twelve miles, andjfire-hunt as we went down, arriving at home in the morning, just as the others had the load ready to start. "We would then load in our fresh ven-ison, and as the river was rapid, we could go down in time to dispose of our load and load for the return voyage before night. As we had to ascend THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 4i* against the rapid current, this was more difficult, taking two or two and a half days. Frequently in hunting, the bears and wolves would follow us for the entrails of the deer. Some times after killing a deer, we found it too lean to eat, when we would abandon it to the wolves and foxes, which we could hear howling and barking in our rear, guided by our fires. Occasionally a still more savage panther would rush in and drive these from their repast. When a deer was suitable for food we dressed it at once, and they were thus sure of obtaining the refuse. After the first of October, the mode of taking fish was to make an oblique wall in the creek, letting it extend at the upper end about twenty feet, and come together at the lower end so near as only to admit the fish basket, which we made of laths and timber. It being in the center of the stream, the fish would mostly pass down between the walls and enter the basket. We generally built the wall where there was a slight rapid, leaving a fall of about eighteen inches at the basket, into which the fish would pass, and could not escape. The first season that my father constructed a basket, he took pattern by some of his neighbors below us. There came a rise of water about the last of October, and we caught but few fish that year. The next season he determined to put in a basket that would prove effectual whether the water was high or low. He commenced building in June, intending to be in season. He concluded to construct it differently from any he had seen. He made one wall shorter and at a sharper angle with 50 pioneer lite; or, the bank than the other, thus bringing his basket nearer the shore on which he lived, making it more easy of access, and left the lower ends of the walls about ten feet apart, enabling him to put in a large basket, and fastened the timbers so strongly under the wall that the basket stood there seven years. When winter came he let down the end of the basket and took off the sides, so that the ice could pass over it without injury. The next season, when we want- ed to use it, we had only to raise the end and sides and fasten the corners, and it was ready for use. At that time there were no boats or lumber rafts to run down, and only one family lived above ns, eight miles distant, so we only left an opening in our wall for hunters to pass through with their canoes. The second night after we had finished it was rainy, and upon such nights the eels played backward and for- ward over the ripples. In the morning my father went down to the basket, and found seven or eight large eels, and eight or ten salmon, with a quantity of suckers and other small fish. We found our bas- ket to be very profitable from that time until the last of October. We were so abundantly supplied with fish from this source that we used them to feed our hogs, and found them very useful for that pur- pose, as we were compelled to keep them in our enclosure to protect them from the wild animals. About the fifth of October, in that season, there came a rise of water in Pine Creek. The succeed ing night we caught about two barrels of eels and three wagon loads of suckers. From this time we THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 51 continued to take from twenty to thirty or forty eels besides a number of other fish nightly, until about the tenth of November, when there came another rise of water in the creek, and in three hours we took two barrels of good salmon and rock-fish, with four wagon loads of suckers. At dark the eels began to run, when my father, assisted by three of us boys and a man, began to carry out the eels, but the other fish came in so rapidly as to dam up the water, so that the eels would go over the sides of the basket and as they were difficult to catch, we threw out fish and eels to make room for the eels. Finding that we were losing many eels in this way, ray brother brought the canoe, and placed it under the basket at a place where the water did not come, and raked the eels back into it as they came. We made an opening in the basket, through which they fell, and we found the plan to work admirably. In about ten hours the river had risen so high as to overflow the basket, which put an end to our operations for that night. We had then carried out about twelve wagon loads of suckers, three barrels of eels and two barrels of salmon and rock fish, besides throw- ing a great quantity out of the basket, to keep it from overflowing. We then built a good tight house of slabs, into which we put our suckers, and threw over it a large quantity of pine and hemlock boughs, to prevent their freezing. We fed our fat- tening hogs for the next three weeks upon fish, when we commenced feeding them corn, and at the end of the next four weeks the pork was equally as good as 52 pioneer life; or, if fattened wholly on corn. We then kept three hogs through the winter on fish. Our supply lasted until about the middle of April. At that time, eels were worth in that country, from five to seven dollars dollars per barrel, according to the demand. Sal- mon and other good fish were worth from four to six dollars a barrel. We estimated the fish fed to our hogs to be worth no mor e than seven or eight dollars as corn was very cheap at that time. If we had sold our fish at a very low rate, the four barrels of salmon, at five dollars a barrel, and five barrels of eels at seven dollars a barrel, and the fish we fed to hogs at eight dollars (besides, two months of the year we caught enough to supply the family all the time,) this would show the value of our fish basket for the first year. We estimated that the fish caught in it was worth to us, at the lowest rate, from sixty to seventy-five dollars, besides the supply for the family. The trout caught that season, which wo kept for the family use, would have been worth twenty dollars more. During the first few years of our residence here, we would often look up the creek in the morning, and see a deer, coming at the top of its speed, fol- lowed by three or four wolves — sometimes two on each side of the creek. We would immediately prepare and go out to meet them. Sometimes we captured the deer with very little trouble, but often the wolves would catch and spoil it before we came up. In this manner the wolves ran the deer from the first of July until the last of January. During THIRTY YEAES A HUNTER. 53 the winter, when the river was covered with ice, the deer would fall into the air holes and become an easy prey. "We took ofT the skin and if the deer did not prove to be very good, we would leave half of it to the wolves, but if it was good, we left the refuse parts to encourage them in pursuing the deer. Often while we were dressing deer the wolves would stand within twenty rods, howling most discordantly. We finally obtained a gun and dogs, and turned our attention to hunting. "We commenced about the first of July, and continued until November. The wolves and dogs hunting together, sometimes one and sometimes the other obtaining the deer, and if it fell into our hands we always left the wolves their portion to keep them near, for we considered them of great assistance to us in hunting. • As there was no bounty on wolves at that time, and we had no sheep for them to kill, we never destroyed them. They often aided us to three or four deer in a week. When we were fire-hunting, and had killed a deer, we often stopped to dress it, and left the wolves their portion, and if we had not the fortune to catch one, we would catch fish and leave them, to keep them in our vicinity. The howling of the wolves upon our track was generally mingled with the scream of wildcats, and often they would fight over the food we left them. Frequently when our dogs were chasing a deer the wolves would take it from them, and the dogs would sometimes take one from the wolves in the same manner. The wolves and the dogs would often be in pursuit of the same deer, 5* 54 pioneer life; ok, bnt when we were n ar enough, we could generally take it from them. In the months of June and July we could often see from two to five hundred fish sunning themselves in the shoal water. The wildcats would stand watch- ing them, and when they approached near enough to the shore, they would seize and bring out as many as three fish each, before they could escape. The black fox would sometimes dive in water two feet deep, and bring out fish. The red and silver tail foxes did not dive, but watched along the shore and took the fish in the same manner as the wildcats. We never killed them when we saw them fishing, as their skins were not as valuable then as in the fall and winter, but we would often shout and alarm them, to see them run. At the proper season, whe • their •kins were good, we used to trap them. * We began o trap for foxes about the beginning of November, waiting with fish, which we found to be the best bait. We would roast an eel and trail it throug the snow for some distance to the trap, and they would follow the scent. We found this to be the most successful manner of securing them. CHAPTER VI. DAGGER FROM RATTLESNAKES. The first season of our residence there the snakes were so numerous that we used to clear the yard and build fires around the house to keep them away. We were careful to have the house made very tight to prevent their entrance, and we closed the door early in the evening in summer, and did not open it until day-light in the morning for fear of them, they were so numerous. Before we commenced making fires around the house in the morning, we frequently found the snakes lying in the yard near the house. One morning quite early, as my father was leaving the house, he heard a hiss like a goose nearly over his head. He paid no attention to it, however, and on his return he cast his eyes up over the the door, and discovered a large rattlesnake lying directly over his head, hissing and darting its tongue toward him. He killed the snake and went into the house much alarmed, saying that he should leave that place, as he feared we would all be bitten by the rattlesnakes. About three days afterward, the hired man went on the roof of the house to repair it, he found a large rattlesnake in quiet possession, seeing which he was terribly alarmed, and jumped to the gTound. I then 56 PJONKEB life; ok, went to the roof and destroyed the snake. On leav- ing the house we always pnt on a pair of woolen socks and leggins over our shoes to protect our legs from the snakes ; this was a necessary precaution for many years. Burning the woods proved of some beneiit to us, as the snakes would not come near a place where a lire had been, for some time, x\bout the first of August they came in pairs, and should one be killed, the other would be found at the end of even three or four days near the dead one. Some- times toward the end of August, thirty or forty could be seen at one time lying on and among the rocks. My brother and myself were hunting and fishing one afternoon, and as we were pushing up the river in our canoe we passed a rattle-snake's den, near which we counted forty rattle-snakes, some coiled up, and others stretched out, sunning themselves. We went ashore and provided ourselves each with a stick made similar to a flail, so that we could kill them with a single blow. One then went below them and the other above, and we killed all we could until we met. We succeeded in killing thirty of the forty snakes which we first counted, hi killing so many snakes, we inhaled so much of the poisonous effluvia as to make us sick. We returned home immediately and took freely of sweet milk and hog's lard, to prevent any more serious effects. Frequently when hunting we saw eight or ten snakes, but we would only kill four or five of them nearest us, or that were ugly. We never found then; numerous at a greater dis- tance than three miles from the river, and there they TUIRTr YEARS A HUNTER 57 were near a brook or small stream, The country from near the mouth of Pine Creek extending several miles up to a place called the Big Elk Lick, was a great resort for them. Within this distance there were six rattlesnake dens. The first den was on the east side of the creek, near Clark's Bottom. Up the creek, about nine miles above Clark's Bottom, was another. About two miles farther, at Black Walnut Bottom, was a small island of about two acres, where we always found great numbers of them. Still far- ther up the creek, about nine miles from the last place, lying in the river, about twelve feet from the nearest shore was a rock about forty feet long by fifteen wide, called Kattle-snake Rock. Oil this the snakes would often lie in piles. On the opposite side of the river was another seventy feet long and twenty wide, on which could often be seen forty snakes at a time. In the year 1794, James King and a Mr. Manning went on an. exploring expedition up Pine Creek, to ascertain if any elk were to be found, and also if any Indians were in the neighborhood. They went up the stream above Big Meadows. When about twenty miles up the creek, they found the rattle- snakes so numerous that they were compelled to anchor their canoe in the middle of the stream to avoid them. The first night they built a fire on shore, and before morning three snakes made their appear- ance. They then concluded it would be more safe in the canoe. About the third day they arrived at the larger rock on the west side of the river? and found 53 PIONEER LIFE ; OR, as many as thirty rattle-snakes lying on the rock, sunning themselves. They pushed their canoe to the other shore, and when passing the smaller rock, they discovered on the top a pile of rattle-snakes as large as an out-door bake-oven. They lay with their heads sticking up in every direction, hissing at them. Pro- ceeding up the river a short distance, they could see, as they approached the shore, snakes lying where they intended to land. They therefore continued on a mile and a half to a thicket of hemlock, which they knew the snakes would not approach, and accord- ingly went ashore and prepared dinner. About one mile and a half farther they arrived at the second fork of Pine Creek. Here they saw about forty elk drinking in the creek, and as far as they could see they discovered elk in the stream. They estimated that there were nearly two hundred elk at the creek. The next day they pushed up the creek about eleven miles, when they came to the Round Islands, on the shore opposite which was a den of rattlesnakes, about a quarter of a mile back from the creek, in a rocky place. It being in the month of August, when the snakes always come to the water, they saw in a space of twenty rods as many as sixteen rattle-snakes, all about a rod from the water. Not wishing to land in such company, they proceeded up the creek half a mile to a hemlock thicket, where they landed and prepared supper. They then dropped out into the stream, and anchored for the night. But they found troublesome neighbors on the water, as well as on 'and. The gnats were so numerous and annoying THIRTY VEAIiS A HTJNTEH. 59 that it was impossible to sleep* They accordingly laid pieces of bark across the canoe, covered them with clay, and built upon it a fire of rotten wood. This raised a smoke which protected them effectually. The next day, about eight miles further up the creek, they arrived at the third fork of Pine Creek. On the west side, opposite the fork, they discovered a large tract of cleared land, consisting of as many as a hundred and sixty acres, to which they gave the name of the Big Meadows. They were the first white men ever there. It had been cleared by the Six Nations, and they thought had probably been vacated for twenty or thirty years, "but they could still discern marks of corn-hills. A few hickory trees grew next the river and along the foot of the hill, but besides these not a tree nor shrub was visi- ble, and it was covered with blue grass. On the opposite side of the creek, near the fork, they found a plum orchard of twenty acres, abounding with fruit. Between the plum orchard and the creek was a tract of cleared land of about thirty acres, which appeared to have once been a corn-field. In this vicinity they found a great many elk and bears. As it was not the season for the latter, and their fur and skins were of no value, they did not molest them They then ascended the fork seven miles, when they arrived at a place which they called Bi^ Marsh. Here the country was more level, and less rocky than it was down Pine Creek. From here they returned to the Meadows, where they left their canoe, and proceeded on foot twelve miles up the 60 PIONEER LIFE ; OR, creek, where they found a very large elk lick, and saw about sixty elk at the creek, at one time. They killed one elk, and the others became frightened at the report of the gun, and fled. When they had killed and dressed the elk, one of them preceeded about a mile further, and found an Indian camp, that appeared to have been occupied by as many as eight or ten persons, but a few days previous. On his return to his companion, he informed him of the discovery he had made, and they concluded to return. They started accordingly, going down the creek five miles to a small stream which they ascended two miles, and encamped for the night. The next morning they went to their canoe by a dif- ferent course, and descended the creek to the second fork. After exploring, for two days, the country lying on the second fork, they proceeded down the creek twelve miles to a place called Hamilton's Bot- tom, and the following day arrived at the town of Jersey Shore, which terminated their expedition. They were hired by a company in Philadelphia to explore the country for the purpose of locating land- warrants, and were the first white men that ever penetrated the wilderness lying on Pine Creek and its tributaries. The information which they obtained was of great importance to us when we first settled in this country, as it enabled us to find where and how the elk lived, where the dens of rattle-snakes were, and how to avoid them. "When hunting the elk we frequently went to the dens of rattle-snakes to see how many were visible at once. We used to TIIliiTY YEAIIS A HUNTER. 61 burn the woods in May to destroy the snakes ; and another mode was to make a large pile where they were the most numerous, and toward evening set fire to it, when the snakes would run into the fire, and vent their impotent rage upon it, until they were burnt to death. I hunted five years in this part of the conutry, and in all that time I noticed that the rattle-snakes were never seen farther than six miles from Pine Creek, and on the smaller streams they were never seen more than two miles from the waters. They were never found near the source of the small streams. I have taken particular notice of the habits of the snakes, while hunting on various streams. In the year 1816, I resided near Cornplanter's Town, on the Allegany River. I made inquiries of Cornplanter, then the head chief of the Six Na- tions, concerning the rattle-snake, and he told me that thirty years previous they had found the snakes as numerous from the place called Red Bank to the State line, as they used to be at Pine Creek. He said all the traveling in summer had to be done in canoes, on account of them. The way they destroyed them was to burn the woods in the same manner that we did. I asked him if any of the people were ever bitten. He replied that the men were seldom bitten as they wore woolen socks and leggins, but several of the women and children had been bitten, and it proved fatal in some cases before remedies could be procured. When they were obliged to lie out at night in a place which was infested by snakes, they 6 62 pioneer life; ok, drove four crotches into the ground, upon which they placed poles, and across these they laid pieces of bark. In this manner they avoided sleeping on the ground. In summer they always kept a fire around the place where they slept, to protect them- selves while asleep. I asked Cornplanter where lie thought the bears, elk, deer and panthers were the most plenty thirty years previous. He answered that in the year 1786 he found the deer more plenty from the State line to Red Bank, and about twelve miles back from the river, than they were on Pine Creek. But he thought bears were not as plenty, and that panthers were quite numerous on Kenzua Creek and the Tionesta and the country between the head waters of those streams and the Susquehannah river. Elk, he said were not as plenty on the Alle. gany as they were on Pine Creek ; and beaver, otter, and other animals valuable for their fur, he had found more abundant on the Susquehannah than on the Allegany. Bears were found in great numbers from the mouth of Conewango Creek to Chau- tauque Lake. They had a crossing place where they passed from the head waters of the Tionesta to the lake. He said his two sons, Henry and John O'Bayle, killed in one summer, fifteen bears on the banks of Chautauque Lake. Soon after our conversation I again saw Corn- planter and he told me that he had learned, by a letter from the Presbyterian Society of Pittsburgh, that they intended to send a preacher to establish a school at Cornplanter's Town, and he asked me to THIRTY YEAES A HUNTER. G3 send my children, as there was no school or place of instruction near us. I told him that when they sent the minister and teacher, I would give him an answer. In about two weeks the teacher arrived. He was from Virginia, and his name was Samuel Oldham, lie was accompanied by his wife. They were both pious people and members of the Presby- terian Church. A man by tlie name of George Ililderbrand came with them as interpreter. lie had lived for several years among the Indians on the Allegany, and understood the language. After the teacher had been here about two days, a man by the name of Walter Seaman and myself went to see him and Cornplanter about sending our children to their school. Cornplanter said he did not know as they would be willing to teach our children without pn} r , but he would be willing on his part as he thought it would be an assistance in teaching their children to speak the English language. He said that the minister was expected to arrive the next Saturday evening, and preach to them on the next Sabbath, and they could then asceitain whether we would be permitted to send our children to their school. I asked of Cornplanter the reason why the Quakers left them about four years previous. He said the Quakers did not keep the Sabbath, and he thought that was very wrong; and they taught the children that he was no wiser or better than any other man, and ought not to be considered so. This ciFpleaped him very much, as he wished to be con pidor^d the wisest and be?t of his tribe, and he told 64 PIONEEE, LIFE* OR, the Quakers that they might go, as the tribe did not wish to have them on their ground, or to have their children taught in that manner. About four years before this the oldest Indians removed into Catta- raugus County, New York. I asked him if he did not regret to have them all leave him. He replied that he was not sorry to have them go, as they were better situated on their own land, and the young men who were left would soon be gnywn up to take the places of those who had gone. He also said that they were not willing to be ruled by him, and he wa3 quite willing that they should leave. lie asked me what I thought of the Quakers. I said that I liked them very much, as they were a very sober people, and did not drink or swear. He did not coincide with me in my favorable opinion of them. In the year 1817, as Corn planter with his son and myself were going down the river in a canoe from the state of New York, where we had been at work, I inquired of his son, Henry O'Bayle. if his father would be willing to talk about the wars and battles in which he had been engaged. On being ques- tioned, he replied that it was a subject upon which he was fond of conversing. I asked him what was the first battle he was ever engaged in. He replied that it waa at Braddock'e defeat He was then sev- enteen years of age, and engaged with the French and Indians against the British. He said that there were about six thousand Indians, and some few French. He supposed there were about double the number of Indians that there were of white men THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER 65 He returned, after the battle, to his own place of residence. There was a smaller number of Corn- planter's own tribe, than of any other tribe then present. Thej had intended, in case they were vic- torious, to continue their march to Philadelphia, driving the whites before them, and compel them to quit the country. But when the battle was over and the plunder was divided, they became insubordinate and could no longer be kept in order. The original plan was therefore abandoned. On his return, Corn planter informed his tribe of the dissensions in their army and said, that in their then divided state it was useless to contend longer against the British, and they had better make peace with them as soon as possible. His advice, however, was not followed* I asked him if he was ever on the Susquehannah. He laughed and asked if any of my friends h^d ever been killed there. I answered in the negative- He then asked if the people on the west branch of the Susquehannah did not entertain feeling of enmity against him. I replied that nothing was cherished against him ; that whatever acts of hostility he had committed were undoubtedly instigated by the British, and upon them, therefore, rested the blame. He said this was true ; that the British supplied them with ammunition and paid them for scalps. I asked him how many men had fallen by his own hand, lie said lie had killed seven. I asked him if his half brother was not killed there, to which he an- swered that he was, in an attack upon a block-house* it Munsec hill, and that lie was present bimself J 66 pioneer life; OB, asked him if he remembered whether they intended to set fire to the block-house. He made no reply to this, but asked if I or any of my friends were there. I told him that I was not there, being but a boy at that time, nor had I friends there, but that I knew the man who shot his brother ; his name was Arm- strong. I also knew another man, by the name of Oarr, who was in the block-house, and who now lived within ninety miles of Cornplanter. Armstrong, Oarr and two others, were the only ones in the block- house at the time of the attack. CHAPTER. VIL WOLF AND BEAR HUNTING. The following is the manner in which wolves were hunted during the early years of our residence in the country. Early in May they were found near the heads of streams, either among the rocks or in hollow logs. When they were near, the hunter gen- erally found paths which were formed by the old she-wolf in passing to and from her den. If none were visible, he imitated the howl of a wolf, to which the old one, if within hearing, would reply, and thus betray her retreat. If not successful in one place, he continued his search from the head of one stream to another. Some times they were found a mile or two -from the head of a stream, if there was any convenient place for them to den. Occasion- ally the hunter could kill a deer, when he hung up different parts of it where it would be found by the wolves, and if upon his return, they had been taken. he felt sure there were wolves in the vicinity. He would then imitate the howl of a wolf, which would be answered if any wolves were within hearing. If the young ones were found in the absence of the dam, great care was used to leave no indications of any one having been at the den. If the hunter had 68 pioneek life; or, no trap, he would climb a tree and wait the approach of the old wolf. About the first of December was the best time for baiting them with meat, as the old ones weaned their young at that season, and the latter were scattered over the woods. The wolf generally has from five to ten puppies. The meat was sometimes roasted and dragged over the trail for thirty or forty rods before baiting the trap With it. The most favorable time for trapping wolves was during rainy weather, as the rain would oblite- rate the scent of the trapper. When there was no rain, it was customary to carry along a pail of water, and sprinkle on the_tracks for the same purpose. When the hunter had his traps set, he would climb into a tree and howl like a wolf until they collected near, when they would get into the traps, or he could shoot them from his retreat. The month of Febru- ary was another favorable time for taking them, as it le season for them to mate, when they collect in great numbers. They can be easily taken in traps at this season, as they are very ravenous, and will run any hazard for the sake of the meat with which the trap was baited. Another successful manner of taking them was in what was called wolf-houses, which were constructed in the folowing manner A favorable place was found on the steep side of a hill, in a place frequented by wolves in passing from one stream to another. In the side of the hill a hole was dug so deep that the upper side would be on a level with the roof of the house. In this hole the house, about ten leet square, was built and the THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 69 same hi height, of beech and maple logs. The top covered with heavy logs, leaving a hole five feet one way by two and a half the other. Into this a trap door is fitted, with a spring underneath. The bait is placed in such a position that the wolf, to reach it, must step upon the trap-door, when it drops down and precipitates the animal to the bottom, when it springs back to its place. If a female is the first to fall into the trap, the others will keep running about over the trap door, and one after another will fall in, until the greater part of the whole pack is caught. The house is built several months before the season for its use, to accustom them to it. About the first of September the wolves com- menced running deer into the river. This is another favorable season for hunting them. When we saw a deer running and no dog in sight, we were sure it was pursued by wolves. If we wished to save the deer for our own use, we shot it before it was over- taken by the wolves. We then let the deer lie some time, and if the wolves were not too much fright- ened by the report of the gun, they would come up to the deer, when we could perhaps kill two or three of them. This is always done early in the morn- ing, and the wolves lie still the rest of the day. When I was a young raan, steel traps were scarce and dear, and we were compelled to invent substi- tutes which would be unnecessary at the present day. Bears were hunted and caught by us in the follow- ing manner. About the first of May they could be found at the streams, turning over the stones along 70 pioneer life; ok, the shore in search of fish with which to feed their cubs. The hunter had to exercise great care to keep where the wind would not blow from him to the bear, as the latter would detect the slightest taint of his presence. After killing the old one he could some times take the cubs, but if they ran he concealed himself and they would return in a short time. If he failed to approach near enough to kill the bear, he let his dogs after her, and she would soon climb a tree, followed by her cubs, when he shot the old one from the tree, and then withdrew with his dogs until the cubs descended and gathered aronnd their dam. If he found it difficult to take them, he could set traps or snares for them, as they will linger near their dam for two or three days. Another manner of taking bears was in houses, similar to those used for wolves. They were made larger, being generally ten by fourteen, and built upon a floor of large logs, unless a large flat rock could be found in a convenient place to build upon. The top was covered with logs or rocks, so heavy that the bears could not raise them. The door was in the side, and hung at the top. When ready for use, the door was swung up and the bait connected with it by a rope, in such a manner that the bear when it pulled upon the bait, would loose the fasten- ing, and cause the door to fall down to its place, and fasten the bear into the house. In this manner we some times caught the old bear and cubs at once. When they were secured in this manner, we could convey them home alive in the following manner. TIIIRTr YEARS A HUNTER. 71 The eyes were covered, and the mouth muzzled. A rope was attached to each foot, and one around the neck ; to the neck was also fastened a pole twenty feet long, and another rope forty feet long, to which a horse was attached. A man then went ahead holding the pole and two behind, holding the ropes, to pre- vent the bear from going too rapidly. When the weather was warm and the bear fat we had to go very slowly. To tame them we used to attach a horse to them and lead them around. If they were stubborn and not easily tamed, we shut them up and fattened them for their oil, which was valuable. About the last of July and first of August, when berries were ripe, was a good season for taking bears, either in bear-houses or by shooting them. They were most plenty where there were whortleberries ; if they could find no whortleberries, they would eat blackberries, and if there were neither, they could be found where there were wild cherries. If not successful in taking them by means of bear-houses, the hunter pursued them with dogs. When he came within sight of one he let the dogs loose, when the bear would climb a tree, before running a great dis- tance. If the tree was so high that the bear could not be reached without much difficulty, the hunter retired a short distance and waited until it came down, when he would drive it up another. If he was prepared with ropes, he could capture it alive. My first experience in catching bears was in 1805, in the following manner. As a large party of young men and women were out picking whortleberries we 72 pioneer life; o::, discovered a bear eating berries. Having eight or ten good dogs with us, we thought it was a fine chance for sport, and accordingly gave chase. In a short time he ascended a tree, but it was too high for our purpose, and we withdrew until he came down, when we forced him up another. We continued in this manner driving him from one tree to another, until we had him up one about fifteen feet to the lower limb. One of the young men proposed to take the bear alive, but another said it could not be done ; but I concurred in the opinion of the first, and we began laying a plan to accomplish it. In the first place we peeled bark, with which we made ropes, with a noose in the end of each. We then made a scaffold by the tree, upon which one of the party stood, and with a pole slipped a noose over the neck and another over the fore paws of the bear. We now had him in our power, and drove him down the tree nearly to the ground. We then tied a pole across his neck, each end of which was taken by a man, and in this manner we drove him a couple of miles, when we concluded he had given us sufficient amusement, and cutting the ropes set him at liberty. Bears from six months to three years old can easily be taken in this manner, but old ones are not so easily managed. During the months of January and February was a favorable time for taking bears by tracking them to their dens. When the hunter had found the den, he approached it, well prepared with dogs and guns, and threw in burning sulpuur, which soon started them out. Thev could then be shot as THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 73 the j emerged from the hole. It was necessary to be well prepared, as the bears are very ferocious at this season, and it would be a perilous adventure for one to rouse them without plenty of dogs and guns. As many as five were sometimes found in one den, but there was not generally more than one. CHAPTER VIII. ANOTHER ELK HUNT. In December, 1811, 1 went to Lycoming county, for the purpose of catching a live elk. The hunting ground was in the vicinity of Pine Creek. I was accompanied by my brother Benjamin, then seven- teen years of age, and three men whom I had hired to assist me. On the 8th we started, each man carrying a knapsack with provisions for a week. We also took ropes sufficient to hold an elk. We ascend- ed Pine Creek about fifteen miles to a place called the Lower Round Islands. Here we left the creek and climbed a hill, the summit of which was two miles from the base. After traveling in a westerly direction about two miles we struck the track of three elk. We supposed, from their freshness, that they were made the evening previous, and by bucks. We followed the track about a mile and a half, when we came up with them, and they wheeled and gazed at us. We had four dogs with us, two of which we let loose. The elk started and ran about lour miles and then turned and fought the dogs until we came up. We then fired to encourage the dogs, when they singled out one of them, and attacked him furiously. Ife took a westerly course, with both dogs after him, THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 75 while the two others went to the north. "We pursued the one the dogs were after. He ran about eight miles, and then turned upon the dogs, which soon tired out and came back, meeting us about four miles from where they had fought. We continued on, and encamped near where the elk had stood at bay. The next morning we followed the elk about three-quar- ters of a mile, and came to where he had left his westerly course and turned to the south. About half a mile farther we came to where he had been feeding, and had lain during the night, and discov- ered him about fifty or sixty rods ahead of U3. We let the two fresh dogs go, and they approached within a few yards of him before he saw them. lie then started, running about six miles, when he turned to fight the dogs, tired them out, and they returned to us. We continued on, however, to the place where the elk had turned upon the dogs. As it was a very blustering day, and there was good camping grouud, we halted for the night, All of the hu\ed men now became discouraged. They said that our dogs were worthless for elk-hunting, that they had gone thus lar without accomplishing any thing, and would proba- bly not if we continued the chase ; and that they were tired and wished to return homo. I told them that the direction in which the elk was then travel- ing led toward home, and it was as well to follow the track as to take any other course. Also, that as they had engaged for an indefinite period, they were under obligations to remain with me, if I desired it, until we had caught a live elk. The next morniii" 76 pioneer life; or, they concluded to continue, and we started after the elk. We went two miles and found where he had been feeding. A short distance farther we saw him lying down. All the dogs were then let loose, when they pursued the elk very closely, and the whole party of us ran about four miles, whooping and shouting with all out might, when we met the dogs returning. The men were again discouraged, and desired to go home. I told them they were now going toward home, and they might as well continue. Some harsh words followed, when I told them it was my business whether they went home or not, and that I should not consider myself bound to pay them if they did not remain with me until I had secured an elk. They then concluded to go on, and we fol- lowed the^track about six miles, and arrived at a high mouutain, with steep, rocky sides, and within two miles of the place from which we started, be- tween Cedar Run and Big Pine Creek, at the mouth of the former stream. From there the elk took a westerly course again. On the side toward Pine Creek many of the rocks rose two or three hundred feet perpendicular. From appearances, we judged that the elk had been on the rocks, awaiting the dogs, and this would have been a capital chance to secure him, if the dogs had kept up the chase. The men, thinking that the elk had departed from the homeward course, wanted to leave the track. I had '*een there before, and knew where we were, but they were totally unacquainted with the place. I pointed to the rocks and said, "If you wish to sro THIRTY YEARS A IIUKTER. 77 down the sides of that mountain and take the chance of finding your way home, go ; I shall keep on the track." But they concluded to follow me, and we again started in pursuit of the elk. We went about six miles, to the east branch of Cedar Bun, in the forks of which we encamped for the night. The next morning we proceeded about a mile and a half, to the west branch of Cedar Bun, where we discov- ered the elk feeding. I told them to keep the dogs quiet, and we would drive him up the hili, the sum- mit of which was about a mile distant. We followed him about half a mile, when I told them to let loose all four of the dogs, and to encourage them by firing a gun. The elk then ran directly south about five miles, and turned to the east. We walked on quite briskly. I told them that the elk was going toward a famous elk-crossing, about six miles distant, and half a mile from our starting-point, called Black Walnut Bottom. This seemed greatly to encourage them, and they pushed on, anticipating a speedy return home. About a mile and a half farther, the elk ran toward a rock which rose about two feet above the surface of the ground, and was about twenty-five by forty feet on the top, but for some unaccountable reason, turned away and passed on. The nice scent of the dogs, however, enabled them to detect the cause at once, and they left the track of the elk, and commenced barking furiously arouncl a hole in the center of the rock. Two of the rnen, Francis and Fleeharty, .were in advance of me, and when they arrived at the rock, they sent all the log^ •7 (S pioneer life; or, down the hole. In a short time a bear made his appearance at the surface. The men drove it back, but it still endeavored to force its way out as often as they kicked it back. I heard their shouts, and ran to them, leaving two others behind with the gun. Soon after I arrived the bear retreated to his cave, and we listened, expecting to hear a struggle between him and the dogs. We were not disappointed, for in about ten minutes we heard the barking of the dogs, and soon one of them rushed out as fast as possible. Very soon another followed, and then the two others came bounding out. The bear stuck his nose again out of the hole, and I jumped upon his head with both feet, knocking him back, and called to the men to give me a* club. While speaking I observed that Francis had an axe upon his shoulder, but was so much excited that he was not aware of it. The bear once more made his appearance, and I asked Francis to give the axe to me. But he called to me to stand out of the way, and giving the bear a glancing stroke, the axe slipped from his hands and went rattling down the hole We then kicked the bear back, and kept him there, until the rest of the party came up with the gun. Upon trial I found that it was wet, and would not go off. I dried the pan and a second time attempted to shoot, but with no better success. I then picked out the caked powder, put some priming into the pan, and told the men to stand back. The bear soon came to the top of the hole, but paused upon seeing so many of us in the vicinitv. I fired into his mouth, and the THIRTT YEARS A HUNTER. 79 bullet broke his neck bone. He fell back, slid down the hole, gave a heavy plunge, and all was silent. Our next object was to bring our booty out to the surface. None of us wished to enter the den, yet we were not willing to leave it there. We finally concluded to decide it by drawing cuts, and the longest two were drawn by Fleeharty and myself. We drew again, to decide which should take the lead, and the lot fell upon Fleeharty. A rope was placed around his waist, and taking a torch in his hand, he started and I followed, leaving orders with those above not to raise the rope until I called. After descending obliquely about thirty feet, we arrived at a precipice of about three feet, at the bottom of which lay the bear on its back. The fears of Fleeharty magnified into a live bear each foot of the dead one, as it lav in the flickering: light of his torch, and, thinking he had at least four bears to encounter, he screamed, "Pull me np!" I quieted him, and taking the torch from his hands, and peer- ing down into the hole, I discovered the cause of Fleeharty's alarm. I told him what I saw, and requested him to proceed, but he could not muster courage enough to descend the precipice, and I pushed him off, following myself. As he struck the bottom, the torch fell from his hands, and he set up a scream of, "Murder! Murder!" "Pull me up ! " u The bears are after me ! " I picked up the torch and showed him that all his panic was caused by one dead bear. We then commenced exploring the cave, and found it to be quite a curiosity. The 80 PIONEER LIFE ; OR, room was, as I judged about twelve by eighteen feet in size, and seven or eight feet high. The ceiling was very smooth, with right-angled corners, and on two adjacent sides were projections like seats about eighteen inches high, and fifteen wide, regulary formed, with well-defined angles. They extended the entire length of their respective sides, while on the opposite sides was no such formation, or traces of any. Every thing had an artificial appearance. I called to those above to come down, and make further researches. In the northwest corner w r as an opening five feet high and three wide, which led to another regularly formed room, eleven by sixteen feet, but without seats or any thing remarkable. In the northwest corner of this room was an opening three feet by two, which led into a long, narrow passage. AYe entered and proceeded about three rods, when our light began to burn dimly, and the thought occurred to me that there might be half a dozen bears or panthers concealed within, and if one should meet us in that narrow passage, our situation would be neither safe nor pleasant. I told the others my fears, and we accordingly returned to the large room. As we concluded that w r e could .not find more confortable quarters, we made arrange- ments to stay there all night. From the moss, leaves and branches which we found there, we supposed the bear must have made this rock his habitation for many winters — perhaps a dozen. We gathered some of the larger blanches, and brought some dry wood from the outside, with wh'ch we made a large THIRTY YEARS A HU.NTEB. 81 and cheerful fire. In a short time the smoke filled the room so densely that we were nearly suffocated, before we could gather up our implements and leave the place. It was now nearly dark, and a cold blustering night. There was no pine or hemlock in that region, with which to build a shanty, and we stretched blankets across poles and made a tent. "We then built a fire, and as the ground was covered with snow, we procured bark and brush to lie on. When every thing was prepared we ate our supper and went to sleep. The next morning after eating breakfast, we went to the rock, to take out our bear. Two of us entered the cave and tied a rope around „he neck of the bear. The three men on the outside pulled on the rope, while we pushed, but we coukl not raise it over the ledge. We then cut a pole about twenty feet long, which we used as a lever, and by this means drew him out. We estimated that he weighed between four and five hundred. We then skinned it, tried out the oil, and cut up the meat* One of the party took the skin, and as much of the oil as he could carry, and each of the others took thirty or forty pounds of meat. The rest we hung about twelve feet from the ground, between two trees. We were then about three and a half miles from home. We started again on the elk- track, and kept it about two and a half miles, arriv- ing at the top of a high hill, within sight of home. .From there the elk turned to the northeast, when I told my companions they might go home, but I continued on the track for about two miles, when 82 PIONEER LIFE* OR, the elk crossed the creek. I then left the track and went home. When I arrived there I found all my hands seated around the fire, talking about my elk- hunting abilities. All but my brother Benjamin said that I could not catch an elk. They said that I was not like my father, but more like other men, and all of my attempts to catch a live elk would be vain. My brother, however, insisted that I could catch one. I told them that I was not so discouraged but that I should try again. I then sent my brother to a place about twenty-five miles distant to procure a man and good dogs, and some articles that I wanted, and told him to join me with them at a place fifteen miles up thj creek. 1 went to another brother who lived three miles distant, and told him that I wanted him to assist me in hunting, and that I would give him the hides of all that we should kill, but if we should succeed in taking one alive, I would pay him for his time and trouble. He consented to go, and said that another man by the name of Blackwell, who lived some eight or nine miles above, had a good elk dog, and would be glad to occompany me on the same terms. We drove up there with a horse and cutter, and engaged Blackwell. We started from there with a two-horse sleigh and a supply of pro- visions, going to what was called the Lower Round Islands, where we encamped for the night, and sent back our team. The next day we started on a west- erly course, and after proceeding about five miles, we found some old elk-tracks. They were so full of newly-fallen snow that we could scarcely distinguish TIIIKrTT YEAKS A BUNTER. S3 tliem, ana could only determine their direction by digging out the snow and examining them. After satisfying ourselves on that point, we followed the tracks about three miles, when we found a fresh track. The elk was going toward the east, and I remarked that he would probably cross at the Upper Round Islands, if we did not catch him first. After following the track about three miles we arrived at a small hollow surrounded by rocks, with abundance of timber. As' it was nearly night, and the weather cold and stormy, we concluded to cut some hemlock boughs and make a shanty. The next morning we started again on the elk-trail, and after proceeding about two miles, we found where he had been feed- ing. I went on ahead to reconnoiter, and had gone but a short distance when I discovered him resting, chewing his cud. When the rest of the party came up, I directed them to loose two of the dogs, of which we had three very good ones. The elk sprang up and started off toward the Lower Round Islands with the dogs in full pursuit. When he arrived at the bluff overlooking the creek, he halted upon a large rock on the brow of a precipice of four hun- dred feet. From the lower side a large fragment had been disengaged, and torn a path forty feet wide ^nd a mile long, to the creek, where it lodged, and stuck about fifteen feet out of the water, which was eight or ten feet deep. When I arrived I did not think it prudent to rope the elk there, fearing he would jump off and kill himself. I accordingly returned to the others, to prevent their approaching 84 riONEER LIFE ; OR, bo near as to frighten him. We passed by him as cautiously as possible, built a fire and called off the dogs. We thought that the elk would then come oft* himself, during the night. Blackwell and my brother, however, became impatient, and wanted to see the elk. I consented but desired them not to disturb him, and to' return soon. When they came within sight of the elk, Blackwell observed that, there was a good chance to rope him, and my bro- ther consented to try. They slipped the noose over his head without much difficulty, with the aid of a pole. They then attempted to draw the noose tight, and at the same moment the dogs seized the elk in the rear, when he sprang with one of the dogs clinging to him, down the precipice. At a distance of four hundred feet, he struck upon a sheet of ice which had been formed by water falling from the rocks above, from which he bounded, and slid seven nundred feet, stopping in a snow-bank, four hundred feet above the creek, three hundred of which was a sheet of frozen snow, and below that a perpendicular precipice of one hundred feet. I heard the plunge and suspected the truth. The men soon returned, and I asked what was the matter. They answered evasively, saying that they were sorry for what had happened. I told them my suspicions, and they acknowledged that they were true. I took it good-humoredly, as it could not now be helped, and told them we had better go after him. We started accordingly, going north about a mile, and came to a brook that ran down through the rocks, the bed of THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 85 which we followed down to the creek. We then descended the creek three quarters of a mile and encamped under a projecting rock. My brother remained to build a fire, while Blackwell and myself went farther down to find, and if possible, to get the elk. We soon saw his hind quarters' projecting out of the snow bank far above us. We followed a ravine which led obliquely up the steep bank to a large rock which had arrested the impetuous descent of the elk, and above which he now lay. On the rock stood a sapling, over which we threw a rope by attaching a stone to one end. When we had secured the rope, we resorted to our usual method of deciding which should take the lead, as we both shrunk from the perilous enterprise of scaling the rock by the aid of a slender rope, with nothing but a steep expanse of frozen snow between us and the brow of a precipice of one hundred feet. The lot fell upon Blackwell, and sticking the tomahawk in his belt, he went up. He then cut steps in the snow to the elk, which lay about forty feet above the sap- ling. I followed him, but believing the steps to be too small and unsafe, I requested him to slip the tomahawk down to me that I might enlarge them. One false step would have precipitated me down the crust of snow and over the precipice. I reached the elk safely, and we began to dig away the snow from the lower side, intending to roll it out upon the crust and let it elide down the snow bank. But Blackwell noticed that the sapling stood in the course it would ts»Vp arid feared that it would so with such force as 8 86 PIONEER LIFE ; OB, to break it if he should hit it, and thus cut off our means of returning. 1 called to my brother to bring a pole with which to guide the elk, and then rolled it out upon the crust. It flew down the snow, giving the sapling a glancing stroke, and over the precipice striking the ice below with a heavy plunge. We retraced our steps and arrived safely on the ice. The meat of the elk was so badly bruised as to be of little value, but we obtained enough for our im- mediate use, which we carried to the camp. The next morning we skinned and cut up our elk, Black- well securing the meat for his dog, and my brofner took the skin. Soon after, Benjamin arrived with the man James Gamble, and the two dogs he had been sent to procure, in a sleigh, which gave the other men a conveyance in which they returned Home. Gamble, Benjamin and myself started again for elk about one o'clock the same day. Afterreach- ing the top of the hill, we struck a northwestern course, and went about five miles when we encamped. The next morning before we had proceeded three* quarters of a mile, we found where three large bucks had been feeding during the previous night. About a mile farther we discovered them lying down, and let loose two of the best dogs. One of the elk came forward to meet the dogs, the other two started off to the south. The one which remained maintained his ground for a time, but the dogs were so furious that he finally started off in a westerly direction, ran eight miles, and stopped to fight the dogs. From appearances we judged that he must have remained THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. S7 here about half an hour. "We traveled on as fast as possible in a direct westerly course toward Kettle Creek, for about ten miles from where the elk had stopped, when Gamble remarked that the elk would not stop in such open woods as we were then trav ersing, and that we had better encamp. I told him that it could not be more than two or three miles to Kettle Creek, and perhaps he would stop on a rock in going down the hill. Accordingly we went two miles farther where we found good camping ground, and as the others were tired and wanted to rest, I told them to build a fire while I continued on to see if I could learn any thing of the dogs. After run- ning about a mile I came to a high bluff where I stood listening until I thought I heard them. I then ascended a tree which stood near, when I could dis- tinctly hear the barking of the dogs, about two miles distant on the other side of the creek. I called to Benjamin and Gamble, and they hurried along in my track. When they had passed two or three rods by the tree in which I was concealed I set up a yell like the cry of a panther. They looked up the tree, and seeing a dark object in the branches, they were very much frightened. After enjoying their alarm a moment I laughed, and told them to hurry on and I would come down immediately. We went in the direction from which the sounds proceeded, crossed Kettle Creek on the ice, and found the elk on a rock fighting the dogs. The rock was about fifteen feet by thirty on the surface, and was fifteen feet above the creek on the side next the creek, and four feet on 88 pioneer life; or, the other. We encamped wit-Inn live rods of the rock, and prepared our supper After some consulta- tion, we concluded not to attempt catching the elk until daylight, as it was now two o'clock at night. We accordingly called oft' the dogs, and arranged it so as to take turns in watching him. 1 watched for the first two hours, when he lay down and I awoke Gamble, who was to take the next watch. In a short time he laid down again, thinking the elk would not leave the rock before morning. At daybreak I awoke and perceived that the elk had gone, and the dogs were asleep. I soon dressed and took the dogs to the rock and sent them after the elk, which had taken the back track I thought that if the dogs foimfl and attacked hini he would return to the rock. When I returned to the camp I found the others dressing, and told them what I had done. They thought we might as well pack up and start in pur- suit immediately after breakfast, as they did not believe he would return to the rock. In a short time, he came bounding back, and again took his station on the rock. We found that we could not rope him while he remained on the rock, and we therefore withdrew and allowed him to come off. He went down to the ereek, when I cut a large club and went ^on the rock, telling the others to drive the elk back. They let the dogs loose and he came toward the rock. As he passed me, I gave him a blow with the club, which made little impression on him, when I gave him two more with all my strength, which dropped him to his knees. He rose, wheeled around and THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 89 went to the lower side of the rock, against which he backed himself, and stood warding off the attack of the dogs. I took a rope to that part of the rock which overhung the elk, and threw the rope over his horns, drawing it close down to his head. We then attached the other end of the rope to a tree, and proceeded to build around him a pen of logs, ten by twenty-two feet square, and twelve feet high. When it was completed, we threw in browse sufficient to supply him four or five days, and then laid poles across the top, which we covered with hemlock boughs, forming a snug and comfortable shelter. Before leaving him, we gave him about twenty feet of slack rope. We then packed up and started for home, encamping that night about five miles below, on the west side of the creek. The next morning, when we started, the snow was three feet deep. We crossed Kettle Creek, and struck a direct east course, expecting to reach a creek with which we were acquainted, but missed our way, and struck Cedar Creek, ten miles from where we had started in the morning. As it was becoming dark, we provided ourselves with torches of yellow pin^, and started down the creek. After wading five miles through water from two to ten inches deep, we reached Big Pine Creek about two o'clock in the morning We had now either to wade through the creek, then very high and full of slush ice, or to go around a moun- tain and reach the creek at a crossing place a mile and a half below. We finally determined to cross, jf possible, where we were, as we were nearer home, 90 pioneer life; or, and on the opposite shore lived three lumbermen, who could afford us the refreshments we felt we so much needed. I went out into the stream, to see whether a crossing was practicable. The water was three feet deep, unusually rapid, and a short distance below was a deep hole, but I resolved to make the attempt. Returning to the shore I took hold of Benjamin with one hand, while in the other I car- ried the axe ; Benjamin took hold of Gamble, who in his other hand carried a stick with which to brace us against the force of the current. The bottom was rocky, with moss growing upon it, which aided us in retaining a footing. We finally succeeded in reaching safely the other shore, a distance of fifteen rods. Our dogs swam after us, but the best one was carried down under the ice and drowned. About four o clock we reached the lumberman's, and they immediately arose and prepared some refreshments, for us, which we took, and without stopping to rest, we started for my brother's, six miles distant. The traveling was so difficult that we did not arrive there until two o clock in the afternoon. The next day, a» I was quite lame, I hired four men to go and bring the elk home. There was a kind of trail to Kettle Creek fifteen miles, and from there to the pen was ten miles. In the afternoon of the second day they reached the place, but found that the elk had thrown down the pen, gnawed off the rope, and escaped with twenty feet of it. The party returned, and gave me an account of my misfortune. I was still lame, and hired three others to catch him. Thov were to THIRTY YEA.R8 A HUNTER. 91 Lave sixty dollars when they had secured him unin jured, and assisted me to bring him home. They started out with two good dogs, and had not gone more than three miles before they found him entan- gled by the rope among the trees and bushes. They secured him, built a pen around him, and leaving with him a supply of food, came and informed me of their success. I hired another man and proceeded to the spot. In four days we brought him in — a large and beautiful animal, with antlers five and a half feet long. CHAPTER IX. ELK-HUNTING ON THE SUSQUEHANNAH When I lived on Kenzua Flats, in 1816, I went to see Coruplanter, about catching some elk. He said that I could not do it ; that no Indian of the Six ]S"ations had done it, or any white man that he knew of. He said that young elk three or four months old had been caught, but no live, full-grown one could be — they were lords of the forest. I told him that I had caught or assisted in catching and leading in three. He asked how we led them, and I informed him. He said he did not know but it was possible, but he did not believe I could take one that winter on the Allegany, as he thought they were larger and wilder than those on the Susquehannah. I told him that if he would show me the track of an elk — I did not care how large — the larger the better; I would willingly wager a small sum of money that I would bring one in alive. He said that he could show plenty of elk-tracks. I told him to find a man that I could hire, and I would employ him. He brought a man who charged a dollar a day, which I agreed to pay him on condition that he would find a track. He said there was ho doubt but that we could find one There was no rope to be orocured THIRTY YEAES A HUNTER. 93 except one that belonged to Cornplanter, for which he wanted two dollars, but agreed to refund the money if I returned the rope uninjured. I agreed to his terms, and left the money. As we parted he wanted to shake hands, saying that he never expect- ed to see me again if I attempted to catch an elk alive. The next morning the Indian I had engaged joined me, and I entered into a partnership with a Mr. Campbell, each of us to stand half the expense and have half the profits. We hired two other men who were to have all they killed and half that we killed. On the third day of January, Campbell and myself, the two white men, the Indian, and four dogs started up Kenzua Creek. We went about twelve miles up the south branch, and encamped for the night. The next morning we continued about six miles, to the top of a hill, and halted. The Indian said we would find elk within four or five miles of this spot. I proposed to divide, Campbell, myself and the Indian each taking a separate course while the two others should remain to build a camp where we would all meet at nign:. lccordr>gly 'vs soon as we had eaten dinner we all started, an 1 remained out until dark, when we met at the camp. No one had discovered any indications of elk. The next morning I told them we would hunt one day more, each upon a different course. 1 took a direct easterly course, and the others chose each his own route. At night all but the Indian came in, without having discovered any signs of an elk. I told Campbell I thought it useless to hunt here longer. 94 pioneer life; ok, as there were probably no elk in the vicinity. About eight o'clock one of the party discovered the Indian coming in, followed apparently by one of the dogs. He remarked that one of the dog3 was loose, and following the Indian in. I found the dogs all in their places, and told the men I thought it was a wolf they saw. At this moment he stopped and we saw at a glance that it was a panther. We sprang forward with our guns, when he turned and moved off. We followed him two miles, without obtaining a shot at him, when we returned to the camp. We paid the Indian and let him go. I told Campbell I would not be disappointed in this manner, but would hunt all winter rather than give up. We concluded to go to the head waters of the Susquehannah, and accordingly started on the eighth of January, going about fifteen miles up the Kenzua, and encamped for the night. The next day, when we had proceed- ed about twelve miles we arrived at a place where a village now stands, but at that time there was but a solitary house in which lived a family named Smith. The man had gone to procure a barrel of lour, and since his departure a deep snow had fallen. He had now been gone three days beyond the ex- pected time, and the supply of provisions and fuel which he had left was nearly exhausted. In addition to the prospect of starvation which stared them in the face, his family were harrassed with the fear that he had perished in the snow: The next day we prepared her a supply of fire-wood, left a loaf of bread and flour enough to supply her for two days, THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 95 and promised to send a man back, on our arrival at the canoe place. "We arrived there a little before night, and engaged a man named Burt to go back to the distressed family. lie took with him some corn meal and potatoes, and we continued on to Isaac Lyman's, about twelve miles farther. He asked us to come in ; we got to talking about elk-hunting, and I asked him what a full-grown live elk would be worth. He said from three to four hundred dollars. I asked him if he would purchase one if I had the luck to catch one. He replied that he had not the means, but would like to join us, and would furnish three men, a horse, and all the provisions necessary, and have one-half the profits. After some consulta- tion, Campbell and I finally consented to accept the proposal. The whole party, consisting of Campbell, myself, three assistants, a horse and four dogs, start- ed the next morning, taking the road to the Susque- hannah River. About twelve miles from Lyman's e came upon the track of eight elk, going west. We followed about four miles and encamped for the night. The next morning Campbell, myself, and one of the men continued on the track of the elk, leaving the others to build a shanty. We went about five miles, started the elk and killed one, with which we returned to the camp. We sent one of the men home with the meat, and started with the other two for the Susquehannah. The man who went home was to return to the camp in three days, with a sup- ply of provisions. After traveling seven or eight miles, we came to where a large drove of elk had 96 pioneer life; ok, been some time before. We hunted during the day to ascertain what course they had taken, and about five miles distant we came to where they had lain the preceding night. Campbell and one of the men George Ay res, went forward, while the other man and myself remained behind with the dogs. They were to call to us when they saw the elk, and we were to let the dogs loose, though I told him I did not believe there were any there we would want to catch, as I thought they were all fawns and does. After they had gone a short distance they saw them, and counted forty-two. They called to us, and we let the dogs loose. The elk scattered, and each of the dogs took after a separate animal, but none of them stopped, and we did not kill any. The dogs all came back that night, and the next morning we went sotheast, and found signs of elk, but they all appeared to be small ones. By this time Mr. Ly- man's hands wished to go home, so we told them we would keep ou to the southeast, and they might go. The following morning they said they did not like to go, as the tracks might be filled with snow. We then said we would strike the road and they might go home from there, while we would go to our log hut, and procure some more provisions. When we reached the road, we told them they might as well go to the shanty and stay with us that night, as it was late. We found two men there with an abun dance of provisions. The next morning two men left, while Ayres and another remained. We hunted the next three days without seeing any tracks which THIRTY YEAR8 A HUNTER. 9T we thought best to follow. We then came back to the road, and the remaining two men left for home with two dogs. We sent word by them to Lyman to send provisions to the camp on Kettle Creek, where we should be in a few days. We hunted the next two days without accomplishing any thing, when we returned to the camp. On our arrival there I told Campbell he might take his choice to make a fire or kill some game. He preferred to kill the. game, and I proceeded to cut wood and make a, fire. He had not been gone more* than half an hour when 7 heard the report of his gun. He soon came dragging a large fat deer, which enabled us to make an excellent supper. After we had eaten, we began to talk about our success, when Campbell said he would hunt but three days longer unless we were more successful. I told him I should hunt until the snow went off before I would give up. The next morning we went south toward Sinemahoning, seeing no signs of elk, and at night we returned to out camp. The following day Campbell was somewhat unwell, and I told him if he would remain and keep camp and dry some of the venison, I would go out toward Pine Creek, to which he consented. After proceeding about seven miles, I found where an elk had been browsing. The manner in which the limbs had been pulled down showed that it must have been a very large animal. I hunted in the vicinity several hours to ascertain the direction in which he went, but the tracks were so old that I could not decide. As I arrived at the camp a man came along 98 pioneer life; oe, who said that he had seen in the road the largest elk tracks he ever saw. I told Campbell of the indica- tions I had discovered, and that the tracks were probably those of the same animal. We invited the man to eat supper with us, as we were greatly obliged to him for the information he had given us. Campbell thought we could not catch him, as we had not sufficient force. I told him I could take the elk alone. The next morning we started at daybreak and found the tracks of the elk, going west. A mile and a half farther he had lain the previous night. In a moment Campbell saw him, and cried out, " There he stands : the largest elk I ever saw ! " I let the dogs go, they attacked him vigorously, and he ran south ten miles to Kettle Creek. He then ran around a hill, and: turned up the east branch, which he ascended four miles on the ice, when he broke through, into water about four feet deep. Here the dogs worried him, as we judged, about two hours, when he started again, ran up a hill, and halted on a rock. The dogs pursued him to the rock, and then returned to us. We met them two or three miles from the elk, which had taken a circuitous course, so that the track at one place was but a fourth of a mile from the rock on which he was stationed, while it was two miles to follow the track. The dogs tried to go directly to the elk, but we thought they saw some- thing else, and compelled them to keep the track, reaching the elk about dark.. Campbell made ready the rope, while I cut a pole about fifteen feet long. He went to the south side of the rock with the dogs. THIRTY YEAES A HOJPTEB. 99 to call his attention in that direction, while I mounted the rock on the north side, and endeavored to put the rope over his horns with the pole. He wheeled and came toward me, when I jumped from the rock, and he turned again to the dogs. About eight feet from the rock stood a hemlock tree, about two feet in diameter, with branches six or eight feet above the ground. It occurred to me that if I could climb this it would be an easy matter to slip the noose over the horns of the elk. I made the attempt, but did not succeed as my moccasins were frozen. I pulled them off and tried again, but with no better success. I then took off my coat, which was by no means pleasant, as the weather was intensely cold, but it enabled me to climb the tree. Campbell then passed the pole and- rope up to me, and called off* the dogs. 1 shouted, and the elk turned and advanced toward me, when I slipped the noose over his horns, and with a jerk drew it tight. I then descended and attached the end of the rope to a tree about forty feet from the elk, and we pulled him from the rock, when we left him for the night. It was then half- past eleven, and we were compelled to go three-quar- ters of a mile to find a suitable place for encamping Arriving there I was attacked so severely with ner- vous headache that I could scarcely walk. Campbell, in looking for a suitable camping- place, found a shanty which had been built by a party of hunters the previous night. We found here a bed of coals and plenty of wood cut. Campbell replenished the fire, and prepared a decoction of hemlock boughs 100 pioneek life; ok, which greatly relieved me. He then cooked supper, and when we had eaten, it was two o'clock. Our next thought was to procure assistance enough to convey home our elk. The nearest settlement was forty miles distant, and I told Campbell that as I was the stronger I had better go. He said he pre* ferred going himself, as he did not understand how to take care of an elk. As he desired it I consented. He started the next morning, taking with him the dogs, went to Cowdersport, the nearest settlement, and in four days returned with three men and a horse. About ten o'clock one night during his absence I heard bells on the east side of Kettle Creek. I walked down to the creek, and as I reached the bank a sleigh drawn by two horses drove into the creek on the opposite side. The weight of the horses broke the ice the entire width of the stream, and when they reached the bank they could not draw the sleigh out of the water. The man then went to the hind end of the sleigh with a bar of iron, which he used as a lever, and spoke to the horses. They made another attempt to extricate the sleigh, and fell. He came to the forward end, and for the first time saw me. He was startled at the unexpected appearance of a human form in that wilderness, and cried out, "In the name of God, what are you? A man, or a ghost?" I assured him that I was flesh and blood, and he said I should have spoken to him. I replied I was so intent in watching his operations that I had not thought of speaking. He asked me TIIIBTY YEARS A HUBTEB. 101 to start the horses, while he went behind and pushed with his lever. I told him it was useless ; the horses had already tried, and were unable to draw the 6leigh out. He went in, however, and spoke to the horsey when they made another effort and fell again. I told him to come out of the water and go to the camp, and I would be there soon with his horses and sleigh. He was quite willing to accept my offer, and started for the camp. I detached the horses from the sleigh, brought them to the top of the bank and connected them by a chain which I found in the sleigh to the end of the tongue. As they could now obtain firm footing, they brought the sleigh to the top of the bank without difficulty. Just as I was starting for the camp, another man arrived at the opposite bank, with a horse and cutter, and wished to cross. I advised him to leave his cutter and ride his horse through the creek, which he did, and we went to the camp together. On our arrival there we found the other man in excruciating pain. His clothes were so frozen before he reached the camp, that he could scarcely walk, and he had nearly perished. They both believed that they would have frozen, had it not been for the assistance I rendered. Tne following morning as they did not like to leave me there alone, I accompanied them to their destination, ten miles distant, where we left the sleighs and harness, and rode the horses back to the camp. Quite early the next morning Campbell arrived with the four men, the horses and sleigh. We immediately set to removing the elk, and in two 102 pioneer life; ok, days we arrived with liirn at Cowdersport. We there settled with Lyman, he to be one-half owner of the elk, and Campbell and myself, each a quarter. Lyman sold one-half his share to a man named Waterman, for two hundred and fifty dollars, the elk being valued at a thousand dollars. We all four went with him to Olean, forty miles distant, where we obtained twelve dollars by exhibiting him. We then exhibited him at a place six miles farther, and made six dollars more. At the latter place a man bet five dollars that he could hold him by grasping his nose with one hand, with his other arm around his horns. He lost the money, however, the animal striking him in the back with one of its hind feet, so severely that it drew blood, December tenth, 1818, I started out on an elk- catching expedition, accompanied by John Camp- bell, Joseph Darling, and an Indian named Billy Fox. The first day, Campbell killed a fine, fat deer, and in the evening, at a distance of seven miles from home, we regaled ourselves with a steak from it. The following day we dismissed Darling, and sent Fox to hunt for an elk-track, while Campbell and I dried meat. Fox crossed Kenzua Creek, and went in the direction of Stump Creek, where he found a track. He ascertained its direction, and returned to the camp. The next morning, as there was bright moonlight, we started at three o'clock. We followed the track but a short distance, as it was an old one. We ascended a hill, and found the track of an elk which had passed that morninc After following THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 103 the track three-quarters of a mile, we saw the elk feeding upon moss. We let loose our three dogs, two of which chased him to a rock, while the other one turned and came back to us in a short time, and the two, after stopping the elk, went to the camp. When we reached the rock the elk had gone, but we had one good dog, which soon sent him bounding hack. »We stood aside and let him mount the rock, out when we attempted to rope him he leaped from the rock at a place where it was ten feet to the ground, and ran down the hill. It was nearly dark, but notwithstanding, we chased him about two miles, when the dogs stopped him on another rock. In an hour we had secured him. I then sent for men and a horse to assist us in conveying him home, which was forty miles distant. We arrived there in three days, and Campbell sold his share fur two hundred dollars. I soon after sold my share for two hundred and sixty dollars, with the privilege of exhibiting him in Warren, which brought me fourteen dollars and a half. This elk was captured with less trouble, expense and time than any I ever caught. A few days after, Morrison, Campbell and myself departed from Warren on another elk-hunt. At Kenzua we hired a man, two horses and four good dogs. We went to an old camp, about sixteen miles distant, and sent back the man and team. The next morning we started, and after traveling twelve miles we struck the tracks of two elk, which we followed till we found them quite fresh, when, it being late. we encamped. The day following, a warm south 104- PIoNEEE LIFE | OR. wind was blowing, accompanied oy a drizzling rain, started out, and when we had gone two miles we iound where they had rested during the night. Let- ting the dogs go, they chased them twenty miles, when one of the elk halted upon a rock. We arrived there about dark, and in half an hour succeeded in capturing him. We then built a fire by the side of a projecting rock, and my companions went to sleep notwithstanding the rain and mud, but I sat up and kept fire, as I could not sleep. In the morning the rain ceased, but as we ail felt the need of some repose, we concluded to remain there another day. We were now thirty miles from the head of Stump Creek, thirty miles from Kenzua. For that place Campbell and Morrison started the next day, to procure a horse, as the easiest manner of removing an elk was to lead it with a horse. After going fifteen miles Campbell returned, saying that he did not wish to walk so far, when Morrison could do the business as well without him. At the end of three davs Morrison returned with a man and a horse. In the meantime Campbell and I had cut a road through the underbrush twelve miles. With our increased force we started for Kenzua, arriving there in two days. We had contracted with a Mr. Tanner, of Warren to take the elk at five hundred dollars, if it was a large, handsome one, but as the one we had did not answer the conditions, we sent word to him that he might take the elk a* - a lower price, or we would take him east, where we would undoubtedly find a THIETT YEAES A I1UNTEU. 105 good sale for him. Tanner said that if we would take the "animal to Warren, he would purchase it at some price. We accordingly built a raft upon which we conveyed it to Warren. When Tanner saw it he offered three hundred dollars, if one of us would assist him in taking it to Pittsburgh, and to the one who went he would pay a dollar a day. We accepted the terms, and I offered sixteen dollars to either of the others who would go and leave me at liberty to return to my family. Morrison and Campbell each offered me sixteen dollars if I would go, as they thought I could manage the elk better than either of them; and Tanner offered me all I could make by exhibiting him until we arrived within forty -five miles of Pittsburgh. I concluded to accept the offer and set to building cabin on a raft, for the elk. We took him on board with the assistance of a horse, and the next day started for Pittsburgh. In 1822, Campbell and myself hired another man named Avery, and went out about twenty miles for an elk-hunt. Having established our camp, Camp bell and myself left the next day, leaving Avery to keep camp. For three days we hunted without any success, and returned to the camp. During our absence Avery had been kept in a constant state of alarm by wild animals. Two panthers and eight wolves had prowled around the camp, and so terrified him that he declared he would not again stay alone in the woods for all the elk in them. We wanted him to remain until we had taken an elk, which he agreed to do, if he could be with us while we hunted 106 fioneeb life; ok. We accordingly took him with us the next day, but when we returned to our camp at night, he was nearly exhausted, having waded through deep snow ail day, and the following day was quite willing to remain in the camp. At a moment when Avery was out for wood, Campbell and I packed provisions sufficient for three days, and when we left the camp, he supposed we would return at night. For two days we hunted without finding a track that we con- sidered best to follow, and on the morning of the third started for the camp, but soon struck the track of a large elk, which had just passed and was within a short distance We let loose the dogs and gave chase. The snow was two and a half feet deep, with a stiff crnst, rendering it extremely difficult for the elk to run, w T hile the dogs could skip along over the crust, and worry him at every step. He ran toward onr camp seven miles, when he turned and stood at bay upon a large rock. We roped him without much difficulty, and watched him that night. The next morning we started for the camp, arriving there about eleven o'clock, and found Avery with a sad tale. He said that after our departure the wolves kept howling around the camp, and as night began to approach, an examination into the stores revealed the cruel trick we had played upon him. When the suspicion flashed upon his mind that he was doomed to pass another night here, with no com- pany, save that of the wolves and panthers, which might possibly form a repast of him before morning, he gave vent to his feelings in a flood of tears. The THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 107 next day he resolved to leave the camp, and go home, but before he had proceeded more than a mile, he heard the howling of wolves, and as he had no gun, he hastened back to the camp. He had a good knife, an axe and a tomahawk, and to these means of defence he added clubs and pointed sticks. He also kept a large fire constantly blazing, and built a scaffold about five feet high, on which he slept. He had passed the time, notwithstanding all these pre- cautions, in constant anxiety, and was heartily glad to see human faces again, but when he learned that we had captured an elk, he was much more delighted. We all went to a traveled road about fifteen miles distant, and from there sent Avery to procure a man and horse, to assist in taking the elk home, while Campbell and I returned to the camp. On the sec- ond day after leaving us, he returned with a Mr. Dixon and a horse. We started the next morning for our elk, but when we arrived at the place where we had left him, he was not there. He, as one had done several years before, probably commenced lick- ing the rope and continued until it was chewed off, and escaped. We let the dogs loose, and followed •ourselves about two miles, where the elk stopped among some logs. Now that we had him we resolved to make sure of him, so we watched him all night, and the next day took him to the camp. From there we traveled by way of Kenzua, and in three days arrived at my residence near Cold Spring, in Catta- raugus county, New York. We remained there a few days, and exhibited the animal, and then went 108 pioneer life; ok, with him to Ellicottviile, where we sold him'for one hundred and ten dollars. This was the last elk I ever caught, the low price obtained for him making the business so unprofitable that I abandoned it CHAPTER X. ELK-HUNTING — CONTINUED. Tn 1800, a party of four, my brother Jacob, George Wilson, Joshua Knapp, and myself proceeded on an elk-hunt. Expecting the campaign would last about 6ix weeks, we took an abundant supply of provision!:, consisting of flour, potatoes, sugar, chocolate, corn, and a quantity of salt with which to cure our meat. We were also provided with half a dozen empty barrels for the meat, an iron pot holding about six gallons, a camp kettle, four axes, a broad axe, a chalk line, a canoe howel, (an instrument for scooping out canoes,) a drawing knife, two augurs, six tomahawks, and several pounds of powder and lead. Each of us took, besides, a rifle, two knives, a quart cup, four shirts and two blankets, not forgetting a supply of soap. Thus equipped, and accompanied by four dogs, we set out, placing our effects in a canoe, whicii two of the party pushed up the stream, while the others hunted along the shore. We left on the 12th of October, starting for the Big Meadows. The second day we saw seven elk, in the river, eating moss. As Knapp said he had never killed an elk. I told him to take two of the dogs and go. As the dogs started for the elk, two does turned, advanced 10 110 toward tuein, but as they met, the does left the water ran down the stream about half a mile, and went into the creek where Wilson and my brother hap- pened to be with the canoe. The does stopped in the water, where it was three feet deep, and they shot them, dragged them out of the water and cut their throats. I then sent my dogs after an elk, which ran into the stream from the east bank, near where they were pulling the canoe over some rapids. The elk approached within thirty feet of them before they were observed, but they were so much excited that they did not take good aim, and both missed. The elk ran down the stream, about half a mile, when the dogs stopped them, and Knapp shot one of them. Two of us skinned and dressed the elk, while the other two made a pine trough holding about four barrels, in which to salt the meat. When the meat was cut from the bone and nicely salted down in the trough, we put it under a bank in a cool place, and covered it over with large, flat stones, over which we placed larger ones, and then rolled on two large logs which we fastened down with withes. We then broke the bones and extracted the marrow, of which, and the fat, we secured forty-five pounds from the three elk. The next day, leaving the meat there, but taking the tallow and skins, we proceeded up the creek, and the second day killed two large, fat does, which we dressed and quartered, and laid the meat in the canoe. We arrived at the place of rendezvous about two o'clock, and proceeded to erect a log house. When tliis was completed, we tried the tallow, saked THIRTY TEARS A HUNTKR. Ill our meat, and in two days set out with provisions sufficient for a couple of weeks. Jacob and Wilson ascended the creek to the Big Elk Lick. When they arrived there they counted forty -seven elk in the vicinity. They tied up their dogs in blankets, so that they could not see, hear, or make any noise, and shot eight elk, singling out the largest and fattest. When the first ones fell, the whole herd commenced squealing, creating such a noise as to make the ground tremble. The men had but about a bushel of salt with them, and drove away the rest of the elk, not wishing to destroy wantonly more than they could save. Wilson was inexperienced in elk-hunting, and was alarmed. He said that the elk would 6trike the wounded one, run their horns against the trees, and jump to a great height, some of them touching branches fifteen feet high. On the day they started for the licks Knapp and myself went up the Marsh Fork about five miles, and came upon the track of seven elk, which we followed into the marsh and there encamped. The marsh con- tained about two thousand acres and was surrounded by bluff hills. In high water it was overflowed, but was dry in summer. In the morning I ascended one of the bluffs, where I could see the whole of the marsh, and discovered the elk about half a mile off. After observing them awhile I descended, ate break- fast, and we started out after the elk. I wen 4 : forward, telling Knapp to keep his dog back. As we approached the elk they sprang to their feet and ran off. We let the dogs loose, each taking after 112 pioneee life; ok, different elk. He followed his dog and I followed mine. In a short time I heard the report of his gun, but followed on after my elk for about seven miles, when I returned to the place where I had left my companion. I asked him where was the elk that I had heard him shoot. He replied that as he fired the elk fell, and he supposed him dead. Laying down his gun and bag of four, he approached the elk, placed his foot upon his antlers, and attempted to cut his throat, but as soon as the knife touched his neck the elk sprang up, and seeing the bag of flour, he rushed at it, struck his antlers through it and ran off with the flour above his head. We started in pursuit, and followed the track to a dry, stony ridge, where we could no longer distinguish it, and we struck across to our camp, arriving there a little after dark. As we had bread enough for only two days, we concluded to go down to the block-house and recruit. The others had been there before us, and left word upon a shingle that they had killed eight elk, and there was still a chance to kill more. They desired us to come up with the canoe after the meat, which Knapp wished to do ; but I resolved not to join the others and incur their ridicule until I had met with better success. Knapp said he should take the canoe and meet the others, even if he was compelled to go alone. I accordingly put up a sup- ply of provisions and prepared to hunt alone Just before I started, however, Knapp's courage failed, and he concluded to accompany me. We proceeded up Big Pine Creek, in the direction the others had THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 113 taken. When we had gone about three miles we discovered five elk in the creek eating moss. I asked Knapp for his gun, so that I could fire twice without loading. He handed it to me, and remained behind, holding back his dog, while I crept along to within sixty yards of them, with my dog behind me. As one of them raised his head I fired, and the elk fell: The others gathered around it, and I snatched up Knapp's gun and shot another. The three others then left the water and started up the hill. I let my dog go, and he singled out a large buck, which he stopped about a mile and a half ahead. I tried to drive him back to the creek by throwing clubs, but he would not go. I shot him low in the breast, so as to wound without killing him. This started him toward the water, and when he reached it- Knapp shot him. We then brought up our canoes, which were two and a half miles below, skinned the elk put them into the canoe, and proceeded with them to the block-house. Expecting the other party down the next day, we left word on a shingle that we had killed ten elk, and then left the camp to hunt in the vicinity. We went down' the creek and returned about three o'clock. The others were there, an: we approached the cabin we heard them say they wished they had killed a few more, so as to have least one more than we. On going into the ca they asked us where our other seven elk were, as they saw but three. We replied that we left them at the Big Marsh. They said it would be a difficui: job to bring them down, in which opinion we fully ♦10 114 pioneek life; or, •concurred in our own minds, especially as the prin- cipal part of the difficulty consisted in killing them. They sat in silence until we told them that the elk we left at the Big Marsh were still alive and at liberty, which piece of intelligence raised their spirits greatly. When I informed them of Knapp's adventure, they nearly went wild with merriment, lying on the floor and rolling in an ecstacy of mirth. When their merriment had subsided, it was judged that Knapp should be randeled, inasmuch as he had transgressed an important rule of the chase. The rule was that when a gun was discharged it should instantly be reloaded, so that the hunter would be prepared for any exigency ; but Knapp had lain down his gun empty, instead of reloading it, and thus lost the game. The operation of randeling was the usual punishment among hunters for any neglect of duty, and consisted in seating the offender upon a stool^ while others, in turn went up and pulled his hair, sometimes plucking out a few. The odor of this adventure never left Knapp. The following morning we took the canoe and all our tools, and ascended to the Lick, where we in- tended to make another canoe. Ko elk had been there since Jacob and Wilson had made such havoc among them. The next day we concluded to start out, each one in a different direction, and to meet again at night. Jacob tossed up with Wilson, and Knapp with me, to decide which should take the west side of the creek, that side being preferable. It fell on Wilson and me to take the west side. I THIETY YEABS A HUNTEE 115 went d o wn the creek to where a branch came in and found there some old elk tracks, which I fol- lowed until it was so late that I could not return to the camp that night. I encamped on the elk- track, and spent the most dismal night that I ever experienced. The wolves flocked around me in droves, and their unearthly howling, mingled with -ae dismal screeching of the owls overhead made a concert of sounds that banished sleep from my eves the greater part of the night. I sat in my shanty, with my gun in one hand, a tomahawk in the other, and a knife by my side. When the wolves became unusually uproarous, I would send the dog out to drive them away, and if they drove him in, I would fire in among them. At length. toward morning, I fell asleep from 6heer exhaustion, and slept until daylight, when I arose, ate my break- tast, and started again on the elk-track. About four miles from where I had slept I arrived at a creek running southwest and emptying into Pine Creek at a point about five miles below the Lick. The elk had ascended the creek, and thinking it would not be best to follow I descended the stream to its junc- tion with Pine Creek. When I arrived at the mouth I found the others there making a canoe, and the sight of a human countenance was a welcome one to me, with the horrors of the previous night still fresh in my mind. As I approached them I concealed myself and imitated the howl of a wolf. After the lessons of the previous night, I made a very success- ful imitation, and thought I would try my powers by 116 pioneeb life; o::, imitating the cry of a panther. I repeated the cry twice, when they all stood listening in considerable consternation, and one of them cried out, " It is a panther!" My brother's practiced ear, however, detected the fraud, and he replied that he thought it was a two-legged one, and would soon make his appearance. As I came up, they asked what luck, expecting I had killed something. I marked three, and they asked, why I had killed three elk up there. I told them to give themselves no uneasiness about my elk, as they were as well able to take care of themselves as ever. The rest of the party had killed nothing. In about a week we had finished three good canoes, each capable of carrying from twenty-live to fifty hundred weight. We started on another hunt, examining the country throughout, but could find no elk. We then commenced hunting deer. Three men stationed themselves on the creek, about a mile apart, while the other, with the dogs, scoured the woods. When he saw a deer, he let a dog go, which would chase it to the creek, and as it ran up or down the stream, would come within shot or one of the men. If the man saw another deer, he let loose another dog, and in this manner we frequently killed three or four deer in a day. In five days we killed fifteen handsome animals, one being driven in by a wolf. We secured their skins, tallow, and meat, and as the water was so low that we could not get over the rapids with our canoe, we continued to hunt. In three days we killed five more, when a rain caused a rise in the water, which THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 117 enabled us to start down with our canoes, loaded with our tools and game In five days we arrived at my father's residence, where we divided our skins, venison, and tallow, giving to Wilson and Knapp a few more than an even proportion of the skins, as they had furnished a greater share of the supplies. They also took the two large canoes, and we the small one, and a rifle worth thirty dollars. After our return that winter, we were very suc- cessful in hunting, my brother and myself killing fortv-seven deer fifteen bears and two elk. V. CHAPTER XL NATURE, HABITS. AND MANNER OF HUNTING THE ELK. The elk is a member of the same family as the deer, but; is a much more noble specimen than the common deer, growing sometimes sixteen hands Hi^h. which is the height of a medium sized horse, and often weighing six hundred pounds. The buck ia provided with large and beautiful antlers. These grow the second year to the length of two or two and a half feet, being sometimes a single spike, but >ften with one or two branches. The sixth year the antlers are from rive to six and a half feet long, with several branches, the largest number I ever observed lug seven on one antler and six on the other: the which projected forward being from fifteen to -:teen inches long. Between the nostiil and the :s a:, opening or vent through which they blow to produce the peculiar noise which is heard during the rutting season, or when they are frightened. ue noise in the doe resembles very nearly in tone whinny of a horse, while that produced by the k is not as shrill, being somewhat more like the c: an ass. but can be heard sometimes at a Itmrffi of three miles. During the rutting season this sound often betravs the elk to the hunter, lie THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 119 can easily perceive whether it proceeds from a buck or a doe, and replies to it in the tone of the opposite sex, until the animal approaches within shot. In the month of March the elk sheds his antlers, and new ones begin to grow about the middle of April, which arrive at their full growth in August. During the process of their formation they are covered with a substance of a reddish-brown color, called the velvet under which course innumerable blood-vessels. At this period they are extremely sensitive, but about the middle of August, when they have attained their full growth, they lose their sense of feeling, and the animal begins to rub them against the trees to remove the velvet. During this process the antlers have a gory appearance, but at length the extraneous matter is all removed, and they appear in their per- fect state, seamed in every direction by the traces of the blood vessels with which they were covered luring their growth. The tail of the elk is about five inches long, and is similar to that of a bear.. Their color in winter is a dun, which changes in April or May to a light reddish-brown, except the hips, which are always yellow, like those of a deer. The motion of the elk is an ambling trot, which it will maintain for a long period, without apparent fatigue. Sometimes they will run six or seven days before they become exhausted. In their manner of breeding, as well as many other things, they resem- ble domestic cattle. They bring forth their young in May — rarely more than one at a time, and never more than two. Hie inost favorable that fin : : : p i :.k :s Uft the : rd together, and the us sixty in one herd. utter a Jiar hollow roar, which can be hear ,:eat roaehed them cant gc and when near : of running, would race the C orert near, and shot the: •vonld gather around U mpanions, makiu^ :. «:<:.■.: i ppear as if as rail of them. In this manner I have fij , killing red. N : ' : mne the slanghter, I then came 1 at them, and did but stood 1-bound. A I tnrned and K A: together in great nnmbers at U ?, where emain a week or two. In b jled in snch numbers at a '.. that the trees for an acre or two around were killed htm in rubbing off ; the bark. W}m ; 4 r the licks they would fight so that the weaker ones could not reach the lick in three or :; From June to the middle of August they moss, remaining a short an to the woods and scatter th : >~ member, Tlie does and THIBTY TEARS A EIT5TE?.. fawns wouia collect in droves and remain * until the U -Then they would a_- scatter through the woods. About the tenth of June the does would leave their young at a little d and come to the river for the moss in its bed. anc tender feed which grew on the banks. If we saw a doe near the river without her fawn, we started i her with our best dogs, and she would run at to where she had left her fawn, with which she would take to the water. When the dogs pressed her hard, she would turn and face them, to pr her fawn, until she had reached a place w water was deep enough to protect them from dogs. If we wished to secure the fawn we sho: doe, and then sent the dogs into the water, phmgmg in after them ourselves, to prevent them :. destroying the fawn. This was the most successful manner of taking young elk. On taking them fa I we generally put them in a yard with a cal: which it would become* much attached. as easily trained to work as a colt or a steer. I ; taken full grown buck elk which were very unman- ageable at first, but after shedding their ant. became tractable and were roken to the -5, and were ever after very gentle, excep- time in September and October, when their -vere full-grown. A female elk will stand ar herself to be milked, and their milk is near to that of a cow, both in quality and quan: my opinion the elk would prove a valuable add:- I 11 122 pioneeb life; or, among them. It possesses strength and speed supe- rior to any other cloven-footed animal, while for food or milk they are equally valuable. Their growth is very rapid, and they are easily kept in good, condition. Indeed, all the qualities which render the reindeer so indispensable to the inhabitants of- Lapland, are possessed by the elk. When domes- ticated, they become greatly attached to the locality in which they were reared, and the animals with which they have associated. A doe which had been reared by our family with a cow, was taken twenty four miles from home to stay with another tame elk. After staying there a month, the fence being left* down it escaped and started for home, leaving an » animal of its own species for those with which it had been accustomed to associate. It was -ten days in coming home, stopping in every corn-field until driven out by the dogs. The men seeing it was a tame one did not molest it, and it arrived home in safety When it met the cow which was its foster-mother, it manifested the greatest joy, and ever after kept near her, jealously driving away any other animal that approached. When the first snow of winter comes, the elk paws it away and feeds upon the grass and .herbage under it. When the snow becomes deep and crusted so that they cannot get at the grass, they browse upon a small tree called elk-wood. This tree or . shrub never grows more than five inches in diameter, and generally not as large. It has a scraggy topi and is easily reached and pulled down by the elk. f THIRTY TEAKS A HUNTER. This shrub must not be confounded with the one sometimes called moose-wood, which has a very tough, fibrous bark, and the proper name of which is leather-wood. When the elk-wood is scarce, they I eat the twigs of basswood, elm, hickory or white ash. PSi severe storms they seek sheltered places, under rocks, the points of hills, or in hemlock thickets. A favorite resort for them is in places where old trees have been blown down, and a thick second growth of underbrush has sprung up. In the spring they scatter through the woods, alone or in pairs, seeking the heads of small streams, and other localities where the^oung feed first begins to start. Before x the axe -of 'the settler had leveled the forests in which they ranged, their most frequented resorts in the interior of Pennsylvania were between the Alle- gany and the Susquehannah, and on the west side ot the north braneh of the Susquehannah, from the Loyaisock Creek to the New York state line. I have found them most numerous in the western part of Lycoming and the eastern part of McKean coun- ties, on the head waters of the Susquehannah and the Allegany. The elk is tne lord of the forest in which he ranges^ no animal inhabiting the same localities be- ing able to conquer him. Terrific combats some- < times ensue among themselves, and I have often found them dead in the woods, with deep wounds mad e hxr thp antlers of their antagonists. CHAPTER XII. ELK AND BEAR HUNTING IN WINTER In hunting elk in the winter, if the ice was strong enough, we would go up the creek in sleighs ; but if it was too weak for that purpose we would take a hand-sleigh to carry our necessaries. It was usual for two or three of the party to go together; one staying along the river and watching, while the others went in search of tracks, and when they fouud one, followed it, and alarming the elk, it would gene- rally make for the rocks on the bank of the creek, where, being stopped by the dogs, we could shoot them. Sometimes, after they had received a shot, they would fall fifty or sixty feet down the bank to the creek or towards it. When we shot them some distance from the creek, we took out their entrails, and sprinkled powder or sulphur around, to keep off the wild animals, and left the elk there with its skin on, until we could procure a horse to draw it to the river. Bear-meat, at that time, brought a much higher price than elk-meat ; bear-oil and bear-skins were also in great demand. The skins sold for from four to ten dollars. If we saw a bear track when we were in pursuit of elk, we would always leave the elk and THIRTY YEARS A HUXTER. 125 follow the bear. From the middle of January until July we did not make a business Of hunting bears or elk. In our winter hunts we used to go to the Round Islands, and be gone from three to six days, killing, in that time, from six to eight elk. Some- times we would kill three or four bears in one hunt. We seldom failed in killing a bear after having found the track. The dogs would either drive them up a tree or stop them. We owned three well-trained dogs. If we put them on a track they would not leave it for any other; they would always come when we called, and never go until we gave the word. When- ever a bear crossed the creek, the dogs always fol- lowed ; if the water was too deep for us to wade through, we had to construct a float on which to cross, always keeping up the pursuit with success. If the guns missed fire the dogs would manage to stop the bear ; they would not give up the chase unsuccess- fully. I have known them to tree a bear and remain by it two days. During the three years that we lived at that place we never lost one after we came up with it. The one that killed the first of any kind of ani mal was to have the skin. My brother killed from twenty-five to thirty elk and twenty to twenty-five bears each year. I did not kill as many. I usually killed from ten to twenty bears, and one season 1 killed thirty-five elk. By fire-hunting, hunting in the woods, and by hounding deer, my brother has taken as many as seventy in a season. When the deer were fat, which was about the last of October, we depended a great deal tm •n 126 PIONEER LIFE *, OR, hounding them. About break of day we would send a dog out after a deer ; when he found one he would drive it towards the creek where some of us were sta- tioned to shoot it. If the deer should happen to cross the creek without our getting a shot, we let another dog after it on the other side, to drive it to the creek again. If a second deer came in sight during the chase we let another go after it ; and in this manner we have had all the dogs out at once. Sometimes a dog would drive one deer to the creek, and sometimes he would bring in two, a doe and her fawn, or a doe and a buck. The three dogs have, in this manner, in one chase, brought in five deer. In that locality, I killed, in one season, from the time we first began to lire-hunt, in June, until the middle of January, forty- seven deer. During one season, my brother killed, of bears, elk and deer, nearly two hundred. The greatest number that I killed, in any one season, of the same kind of animals, was about one hundred and thirty. In the month of June, 1801, my father with his family removed to a more settled part of the country, twenty-two miles down Pine Creek, near the west branch of the Susquehannah and within six miles of it. We took up our residence in an old barn, which was partly occupied by another family. I thought I had left all my hunting ; but we had been there but a short time when we were told that a bear was mak- ing havoc among the sheep, hogs, etc., in the neigh- borhood, and that he was as large as a cow. My father had retained only two rifles, one for himself THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 127 and one for me, and kept but two of the hunting dogs, as he did not expect to hunt much down there. One day, just as we had arisen from dinner, we heard a hog squealing, and our neighbors informed us that the bear had seized another hog. I took my gun, and accompanied by one dog, started out to kill him. He was about one hundred rods off, walking on his hind i'eet with his back towards me, his fore paws firmly embracing the nearly dead hog, which weighed one hundred and forty pounds. He looked back occa- sionally as I approached him, and when I was within seventy yards of him, he dropped the hog and turned toward me, standing erect, and making, at the same time, a noise peculiar to the animal. I raised my gun, and taking aim at a white spot on his breast where the hair was parted, sent the ball through his heart. About the middle of August, we were reap- ing wheat on an island that my father owned, three fourths of a mile above our residence, when a boy, who had been procuring water at a spring on the main land, informed me that he had seen three bears crossing the creek above. Taking my rifle, which I always had with me when I went to work, I immedi- diately started in pursuit, and soon had the satisfac- tion of shooting the largest of the three, but the others escaped, and I did not think it worth while to follow them. About the middle of September, when the corn was sufficiently large for roasting, the bears were in the habit of coming to the island for it ; we therefore took a number of poles sixteen feet long, placed them in 128 pioxei:r life ; or, the ground, and connecting the ends at the top secured them firmly with bark. A Dutchman, who was in my company, thatched it from bottom to top with rye straw, so that when finished, it had the appearance of a stack of straw. This house was for the purpose of concealing ourselves and dogs when the bears came to the island, so that we could surprise them suddenly. The first night we both watched, but did not kill anything. The next night the Dutchman watched alone and succeeded in killing a large bear. He asked me to watch with him the following night, which I refused to do, and he watched alone, but did not see any game. The next night I again refused to watch with him, it being Sunday. He said it was not best to let the bears eat the corn, and desired me to let him have my dog. I told him to let them have a little corn on Sunday. He watched but did not kill any. Three days afterwards he told me that he had not seen any signs of bears, but that the racccons were troubling us ; accordingly I watched with him, and we killed two in the evening and four at break of day. Our dogs would seize them and we would knock them in the head with a tomahawk, or take them by the tail and dash their heads against a tree. We did not watch again for some time One night my father said there was every appear- ance of raccoons having been in the fields. The Dutchman and I went out to hunt them, but returned unsuccessful. Sometime after that, he said he had seen the tracks of a large bear, which had torn down considerable corn, and as he exnected the bear would THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 129 return, he asked me to go with him and watch, but I declined doing so. He watched alone, undisturbed by the bear. At this season, the bears subsisted principally on the chestnuts and acorns which were then ripening ; so I told the Dutchman that if we hunted any more for bears we would go into the woods, as they gene- rally laid still when there were nuts to eat. He coin- cided with me. A few weeks after that, another bear commenced his ravages among the corn which was in stacks ; they would pull them down, making great havoc. The Dutchman and I pursued him with the dogs, came up with him, and the dogs worried him so that when he came to a fence he was unable to get over. We called them off and allowed him to pass over and go about half way across the stream be- tween the island and main land, when we let our dogs go again. They caught him as he was leaving the water, and soon treed him. We did not dare to to fire at him until morning, for should we only wound him he would come down and kill our dogs. I returned home, but Hans remained all night and at day-break shot the bear. A few weeks after, we had a slight fall of snow, and I went out after bears, but found none, though I killed two deer; I skinned them and hung the venison up on such small poles that the bears could not climb, and out of reach of the wolves. About ten days after, more snow having fallen, we went out again, but returned home unsuccessful, and hunted no more until July, when the bears again commenced 130 PIONEER LITE ; OK, their depredations by killing a calf belonging to one of our neighbors, after which they killed several hogs. At that time the bears were traveling from the west to the east. The Dutchman and myself started out after the first and killed three which we had driven up a tree. By the first of August we had killed six. We did not hunt any except when they killed the hogs and sheep. On the tenth of August I went twenty-two miles up the creek to haul logs. We had to load them in the creek, near what was called a bear run-way. At this time th# bears were going from the east to the west, and as they all crossed the creek at the same place, they stepped in the same track, so that it had the appearance of being the track of but one bear. Occasionally when there were three or four bears together, I would go down towards where they crossed and throw stones and clubs to drive them back ; but I could never make them return up the hill ; they would always go down the stream a short distance, and so gain the opposite slwre, then come back on the bank to the old track. Every time I saw a bear I marked it down, and in a month I counted forty-three. I then went home, but returned to work again in about four days. The first bear that I saw after my return was a very large one — about as large as a common sized cow, and the largest I ever saw. I thought I would see what I could do with him ; so I waded into the water about knee deep, and commenced throwing stones at him. He paid no attention to them or me either, but kept on his course the same as though I had not been THIRTY YEARS A IICNTER. 131 there. I was just beginning to think of retreating, when I thonght I would throw one more ; picking up a large stone, 1 threw it and hit him on the fore- head. He raised himself on his hind feet, uttered a savage growl and rushed furiously towards me. 1 ran to the logs, caught up my axe and sprang upon a pair of timber wheels, which were eleven feet high. Before springing upon the wheels I looked around and saw him close at my heels. I raised my axe, in- tending to plunge it into his brain ; but in the excite- ment missed my aim, and the handle struck his feet, which caused him to give another cry of pain. I was now on the wheels, and took off my hat and shook it at him, causing him to step back a little. I saw death staring me in the face. I knew their nature so well, and knew that if he got hold of me, he would not relinquish his hold until I was dead ; but soon he began to move slowly off, looking around every few steps to observe my movements. When he had gone about two rods I started the oxen, which were hitched to the timber wheels, with a log loaded. As soon as I saw the bear strike the trail I got off and hastened to my brother's house, where I lived, to procure a gun. lie had frightened me worse than I ever was before or since, and I wanted to take revenge. The house was a little more than half a mile distant, and 1 reached it in a very short time. When I arrived there, my sister inquired why I looked so pale, and if I was sick? 1 told her ; and taking my gun, toma- hawk, and a hunting knife, started in a direction to strike the trail about half a mile from the river, in 132 pioneer life; or, hopes of meeting the gentleman and giving him a proper reception, bnt when I reached the river I found that lie had passed. During the next six weeks they were not molested, and in that period I saw sixty-three, and my brother thirty-three, making ninety-six that were seen crossing, besides those that probably crossed unobserved. About the tenth of October they commenced crossing from the west to the east, making a trail across my father's island, which was planted to corn in five fields of ten acres each. The Dutchman and I made another house between the bank and a root, which served for two sides, of the house. The first night we watched we wore unsuccessful, and did not make another attempt for several nights. At length the Dutchman, another man and myself went out to watch. Three times in the night they rose and went out to look for them, but without succcess. Just at break of day I awoke, went to the door, and saw a bear coming. Taking my gun and dog I stole out cautiously, leaving the others sleeping soundly. The dog gave chase, and stopped him as he had crossed the island and was about to plunge into the stream on the opposite side. Here was an abrupt bank of about eight feet, and as the bear attempted to descend this the dog would seize him and he would turn upon the dog. When I came up, the bear plunged off the bank, followed by the dog, which continued to worry him in the water. Seizing a moment when the bear turned to face the dog, I fired, killing him instantly. The men in the hut, hearing the report of my gun, ran out THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 133 to see wnat was my success, but I drew the bear under the bank, where it could not be seen, and moved off a short distance. When they approached me, they asked me what I had shot. I replied that I guessed it was some one below. Tb'ey did not believe this, but told me they thought I had killed a bear. I told them to come and see, leading them to where I had left my booty. About two weeks after the last occurrence, a boy belonging to a neighboring family came to us saying that there were three bears in one of their corn-iieldsi pulling down the corn, and requested me to come and kill them. I accordingly took my gun and rode over there. The old man and woman were mounted on stumps, watching the depredations of their unwel- come visitors, all three of which I dispatched without much difficulty. In two days I killed two more while they were crossing the creek. I now hunted until the middle of December, killing fourteen bears, and seventeen deer. "When the ground was covered with snow I took a dog with me and treed them. When there was no snow I generally found them on the ground eating acorns and chestnuts. In February I was 9hown the tracks of two bears, which I flowed to a hole in the rocks, in which they were concealed. The man who accompanied me went into the hole with a pole about twelve feet long, on the end of which was a lighted match. He penetrated as far as was prudent, threw in the match with all his force, and then hastened out. After waiting some time in vain for the bears to make their appearance, we 19 134 pioneer life; or, •both went in with a lighted match and a gun. After going in gome distance, we found the opening so narrow that it was very difficult to proceed, and we threw in the match and beat a retreat. In about fifteen minutes we heard a rustling in the cave, and calling to my companion to stand clear, I stationed myself where I could shoot them as they emerged. As the first one made his appearance at the entrance, I fired, and he fell dead. The other one rushed out over him, and during the delay of reloading my gun, he obtained quite a start of me. I set the dog after him, and after chasing him two miles, he ran up a tree, and I shot him. This was the last I killed until the first of May, when I shot one which was very large and fat, having been but a short time out of its winter quarters. We estimated that it would weigh five hundred pounds. In June I shot one that was carrying off a hog. I hunted no more for about three years. In 1 800 I removed to Black Walnut Bottoms, and •the next year I went fire-hunting, accompanied by a man named Clark. We pushed up the creek about &ve miles, when we made a fire and lay there until midnight. There was another party below us which 'had hunted down the river since nine o'clock without success. We started about half-past twelve o'clock. J sat in front for the first three miles, killing nothing, when I exchanged places with Clark. He had been seated ibrward but a short time when he said that he saw twenty deer, he could count them by their eyes. He observed that they were very long-legged, THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 135 and held their heads remarkably higb, for deer. As we floated nearer them we discovered that they were elk. "We both leveled our rifles to fire together, but tne smoke from the torch blew into my face so that I could not see to take aim. Clark fired, however, and one of the elk leaped from the water, and fell heavily to the earth. Then ensued a scene which I shall never forget. The frightened animus rushed to the shore, and seeing their shadows on the bluff bank, in the flickering light of our torch, took them for new enemies, and turned again iuto the water, roaring so that the very earth seemed to tremble. They dashed down the stream, a few rods, clashing their hoofs and antlers together, then turned and again went to the shore a short distance below us. During the whole time I was so blinded by the smoke that it was im- possible to use my rifle with any effect. As they approached the bank they were again frightened by the immense shadows moving in front of them, and dashing again into the water, they struck for the opposite shore. We lay directly in the course they took, and in the rush two of them leaped over the canoe between Clark and myself, and a third ran against one end and overturned it. The light being extinguished, there was nothing to excite their fears, and they all ascended the bank, and made off. The water into which we were precipitated was but about three feet deep, and we reached the shore without difficulty. We then righted our canoe and proceeded to bail out the water with our hatg. As it was a very large one, this was a work of much labor. Our 136 pioneer liee; OB, f ncxt object was to procure dry wood and make a fire, which, as the rain was now falling quite hard, was no easy matter. When Clark stepped upon the shore, he was met by the warning note of a large rattle -snake which lay coiled up at his feet. He returned to the canoe and proposed to float down to a more favorable place, but I told him I should not go farther in our present plight. I made the next at- tempt to land, and met with a similar reception from another rattle-snake. I stepped to the canoe, pushed up the stream, and once more stepped ashore, beat ing about me with a stick to find whether there were snakes about, until I reached the top of the bank, which was there about ten feet high. On the top I found a half-decayed pine stump, which leaned over in such a manner that the lower side was dry. Calling to Clark, and informing him what I had found, I proceeded to set fire to it. Fortunately, my powder had kept dry, and in a few moments the stump was enveloped in a blaze. We then built a fire in our canoe, and pushed down the creek, arriv- ing at home about daybreak. I told Clark he might have the elk we had killed, if he would go after it. About ten days after, Clark and I started again on a fire-hunt. Pushing up the stream about seven miles, we turned and commenced floating down at nine o'clock. After proceeding about a mile, Clark, who sat forward, saw a large buck, a short distance ahead. He fired and wounded the animal, when it wheeled and attempted to plunge over the- canoe. Clark held up his hand to protect himself, which THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 137 frightened him still more, and he sprang across the canoe, giving Clark a blow between the eyes, with its hind feet, which knocked him prostrate. I asked aim if he was hurt, and he replied that he was nearly killed. I pushed ashore as soon as possible, and took him out of the canoe. His face was bathed in blood, and presented a ghastly appearance. Upon washing away the blood I discovered that he was not as badly injured as I had feared. There was a severe contusion in the spot where he was struck, but the skin was not broken, and the blood had dropped from the wounded deer. I then went after the deer, which I found lying down, badly wounded, but not dead. I finished it by a ball through; the head, and dragged it to the canoe. We floated down a mile, when we saw a buck and doe eating moss. Clark fired, killing the buck, and the doe ran ashore, when, becoming frightened at her shadow, she leaped back toward the canoe. As she raised to spring over, I hit her on the nose with a paddle, and she fell back into the canoe, when I cut her throat. We then floated down, picked up our buck, and proceeded homeward with three deer, one of which had not cost us even a shot. About the first of the next December, I went on a bear- hunt, accompanied by a man named Hamlin. We soon treed and killed a large bear, which we dressed and hung up. In a short time we met two more, one of which we killed. We returned home, and the next morning started with a horse to convey home our bears, and before we reached thorn we • : V2 133 PIONEER LIFE ; OR killed another. This made a load lor our horse, and we accordingly started at once for home, and the next day went for the first two. When we had loaded them and proceeded a short distance, we killed another, which we were compelled to leave and return for the next day. About the middle of July, 1805, Morrison, Francis and myself were out on a hunt. Going up the creek about five miles, we commenced floating down, and soon shot a deer, which we stowed away in our canoe. When we had gone a short distance farther, two of us saw a deer in the stream, and both fired at the same time, but neither appeared to hit it. We re-loaded and directed the man who was steering t« run the canoe to the shore. We then stood on the shore, about thirty rods from the deer, and each fired eight shots at it, as rapidly as we could load, when our guns became so hot that we were compelled to stop. The steersman had been holding up the torch^for us to see by, yet the position of the animal was the same as when first observed. At each shot it had seemed to spring up, each time higher and higher, and dropping into the same spot. We now threw sticks at it, to drive it away, when it gave two or three leaps, and suddenly disappeared. This affair may appear somewhat strange to the reader, as it did to me, but the facts arc as I have stated, and alwavs appeared to me unaccountable. CHAPTER XIII. HUNTING ON THE CLARION RIVER. In November, 1817, William Gibson, Joseph Hook and myself started for the head waters of Kenzua Creek and Clarion River, to capture and bring home a live elk. The}' were to defray all the expenses and own one-half the elk when caught. They hired an Indian named George Silverheels, to assist, pay- ing him a dollar a day. On arriving at the head waters of the Kenzua, we built a camp. Hook and myself then went to look for elk-tracks, leaving the others at the camp to cook provisions. About four miles northeast of the camp we found the tracks of quite a herd, which we followed for a mile and a half, when we found where twenty-nine had lain in the snow. We concluded to return to the camp, but it soon became dark, and we-found it very difficult to follow our track back. We arrived there about eleven o'clock, and informed them that we had tracked twenty-nine. I told Silverheels, in Indian, that I thought they were all middling-sized does and fawns, and did not think there was one we would wish to catch. The following day, each man carry- ing provisions for six days, we set out, accompanied by four dogs. About ten o'clock we reached the 14:0 PIONEEPw LIFE*, OR, elk-beds. I told them that we should find them not more than two miles ahead, and proposed that one should go ahead and kill a couple of them, and the others remain behind with the dogs. They desired me to go and when I had proceeded ahout three, quarters of a mile I discovered about ten elk. I raised my rifle, but it had become wet in coming through the snow, and having a flint lock, would not go. I tried three times, when the elk became alarmed, and I waited for the others to arrive. I told Silverheels that my gun was wet, and if his was in order to follow with the dogs, and if they stopped the elk, to kill one. They all went on, leaving me to unbreech my gun. I worked at it about half an hour, unsuccessfully, when, as the snow was falling very rapidly, and I feared to lose the track, I started after the others, overtaking them about seven miles distant. I soon heard the barking of the dogs, and told Silverheels he had better go on ahead, while we would remain, lest so many should alarm the elk. When we heard the report of his rifle we went to him, and found that he had killed an elk. Silver- heels and myself continued on the trail, leaving the others to dress the elk and prepare a camp for the night. When we had proceeded three-quarters of a mile, we found one of the dogs and an elk which Silverheels shot. It was now quite dark, and we left it and went back to the others. They had stretched the skin of the elk across poles to form a shelter, but could not succeed in making a fire out- side, and were compelled to light one under the skin. THIRTY YEARS A HUNTEK. 141 The snow was falling rapidly, which rendered it extremely difficult, and it was not until one o'clock that we finally succeeded. In the meantime we suffered severely from cold. At daylight the snow had fallen to the depth of four feet, and it was with much labor that we beat down the snow sufficiently to procure wood. We were unable to reach the elk which we had left out, until the second day, when we dressed and brought it into the camp. We remained there three days, drying our venison, and tramping down the snow, but were unable to go a great distance from the camp. The fourth day it thawed sufficiently to settle the snow a few inches, and we left our camp, and after toiling through the snow all day, encamped at night seven miles from our starting-place. The following day we traveled nine miles farther, reaching our old camp. We re- mained here three days, waiting for a thaw. I told the others that I thought we might find two or three large elk near where we had started the small ones. Silverheels and Gibson objected to the idea of going after them in the snow, but Hook consented to go with me. The following day we went four miles, and found the tracks of three large elk, which had passed the day before. We followed them half a mile, and found them on the side of a hill, eating moss. They were large, noble animals, and each one would have been worth five hundred dollars if we could have taken them. We thought it best not to attempt this, without the rest of the party and the dogs, and accordingly returned without disturb- 142 pioneer life; or, ing them, reaching the camp about nine o'clock, greatly fatigued. Gibson and Silverheels awoke on jour arrival, and inquired what luck. Hook replied that we had started three fine elk, worth five hun- dred dollars each. Upon this they became quite animated, and Gibson said he would chase them two weeks, if necessary to catch one. I told him he might follow them a month without taking one, if the dogs would not go. The next morning all set out, and at eleven o'clock arrived at the place where we had left the elk, when I went on in advance j the others following at the distance of a hundred yards. I soon saw the elk, and h. r1 ted till the others came up. They loosed the dogs, but it was difficult for them to run through the deep snow, and tl e elk gained upon them. I said it was useless for us to make any farther attempt, as the dogs would soon return ; but the others were eager to follow them, and my objections were overruled. We followed them three miles, when two of them struck off to the west, the other keeping on a straight course, with the dugs after it. After going another mile the dogs returned. It was now between three and four r o'clock, and we were all heartily discouraged. Sil- verheels said it was useless to go farther, as the dogs would not go through the deep snow, which I had told them before. They asked me what I thought it best to do. I told them that as it was near night, we had better make a hemlock shanty, and stay there over night, which we did, and passed the night very comfortably. In the morning theyjagain asked THIRTY YKAR8 A HUNTER. 143 my opinion about our next movements, and I told them we could do nothing until the snow had settled so that the dogs could run. We returned to our camp and waited two days for a thaw, but the wea- ther became colder, and we concluded to go home. "When we had arrived within six miles of Kenzua, 'xibson gave out, and could go no farther. We made him a fire, and when we reached the settle- ment, we sent back a man and horse to bring him in. This was the second time that I failed to take an elk alive, after having attempted it, and in this case we should have probably succeeded, had we not been prevented by the deep snow. In August, 1820, I left Kenzua Flats, in company with John Campbell and Robert McKean, for the head waters of the Susquehannah River, to take an We hired two Indians, named Morris Ilalftown and John Geebuck, with a packhorse, to assist us. L had never taken an elk alive, in summer, but with good dogs I thought we might, as they would be most likely to flee to a creek or * er. I had killed many that I might have caught if I had attempted it. We encamped the first night on a small stream flowing into the Kenzua, seventeen miles above the Kenzua Flats. The following day Campbell, myself, and the two Indians went to look for elk-tracks, each taking a different direction, leaving McKean to keep camp, take care of the horse, and cook. We all returned at twelve o'clock, as had been agreed upon except Halftown, who came in about half-past one, having, about nine miles from the camp started seven 144: pioneer life; ok, doe elk and fawns, and killed one of them. We all went to secure the one he had killed, arriving there about dark. Campbell and the two Indians skinned the elk, while McKean cut wood, and I went in search of water. When I returned they had dressed the elk, and we cut up and salted it in the skin. The following day Halftown and Qeebuck went down Stump Creek to look for signs of elk. If they found the tracks of large ones they were to return and inform us, but if small they were to follow and kill some. They took a supply of salt, with which to cure the meat of any they might kill at a distance from the camp. Campbell, McKean and myself made a scaffold upon which to dry our meat, and when done we spread out the meat, and Campbell and myself went to hunt a camping-ground near a large lick, leaving McKean to dry the venison. We found a suitable place about half a mile above the lick, where we built a camp. The following morning we returned to where we had left McKean, loaded the horse with our dried venison, and waited until noon for the Indians to come in, when, as they had not arrived, we marked our road so that they could find us, and went to the other camp. The Indians joined us that evening. They had seen some signs of elk, that had passed some days before, but no fresh ones. The next morning they again departed in the direction of the Susquehannah and Stump Creek, to look for elk, and should they find does or small bucks they were to kill as many as as possible. Campbell and myself started with THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 145 three days provisions and two dogs, leaving McKean in the camp to take care of the horse. We went south toward tbe head of the Tionesta, and about three o'clock came where two bucks had passed the day before. Judging by the tracks they were about three years old. They were heading toward the lick near which we had encamped. We followed till evening, and encamped on the trail. Next morning after going four miles we found them. We let loose the dogs, and they went off after the elk at a rapid rate, heading toward the Kenzua. We followed as fast as possible, thinking to catch one of them in some deep hole in the creek. We kept on the track to the creek, found that the elk had gone down the stream, sometimes in the water and sometimes on the shore. We followed on for two miles, when we met our dogs returning. It being a very warm day, we returned, discouraged, to our camp near the elk lick. I told Campbell that with six dogs, if they were not better than these, we could not catch an elk, as they would not keep on the track. When we arrived at the camp, we found the Indians there, but the horse had strayed away. It was now Saturday night, and Campbell said that he did not wish to hunt horses on the Sabbath. I said that it was not a day for such business, but in this case I considered it a work of necessity, as he might stray so far before Monday as to be lost beyond recovery. I offered to go with the Indians, and leave the other two at the camp. We started early the following day, and when we had gone a short distance I directed Halftown to 13 it* a ;- :: i: :: :•. : 7 :: -IT: Z^ -r*r-' I : '- --f -, — arrived at a place wbere some tree? had been pffkd by wi rtown knew the creek to be the math f the Kenzna, ai.d that he and his father had peeled that bark tw m before, and anty. in which they had wintered. We encamped here for the night, and in the morn- ing revived to give up the pursuit and retnrn hone, think .able that Campbell and Gee- back had done so. We arrive i at Kenzna at the same time with Campbell and Geebuck, but the been found. We went to Campbell's ~e took dinner and settled onr affairs, after which we sent the Indians back to the camp for onr meat, cooking utensil= We paid r the h ch with the provisions, wage* of the Indians, and loss of onr own time made tal loss one hundred an! twenty-six dollars, being forrr-t wo dollars ea; ... IfcFryji ad agreed, in case wc : secure an elk, to assist me in building, half r each : !Qm great of the failure of our exped: the want I will i: ription of the pi ^rren to Oiean, on the ile of th re 1 one hunted elk, bears. panthers and My first elk-hunting in this n was in 1S16. and I continued it for five years. During this time I traveled over every part c : section oi .vania ar.i New York, and became familiar with the com. een the Allegany and Susquehannah. In a circuit of ten miles around the 148 pioneer life; or, head of the Tionesta, I thought the pine timber was better than in any other part of the region I have mentioned. The timber region commenced about seven miles from the Allegany river, two miles above Warren. The southeast branch heads in a good farming country, covered with beech, maple, chestnut, and some scattering wild-cherry trees, some of which latter measured three feet in diame- ter, and not a branch within fifty feet of the ground. Here were also white-wood trees, four feet in diame- ter, with the lower limbs sixty feet from the ground. The country around the mouth of the creek was covered with a magnificent growth of pine and oak. Hence to the head of Willow Creek is a good farming country, covered with oak, chestnut, beech, maple, and a sprinkling of pine, hemlock and wild cherry. Around the head of Tuneangwant creek and on the south side is also a good farming country. I never hunted on the north side, but have been told that it is as good a country for farming purposes as the south side. From the Quaker Run to the head of Tune- angwant, thence to Sugar Eun, Kenzua Creek, and on to the Tionesta, I have been familiar, and know it to be good farming land. On the north branch of the Kenzua I have seen indications of stone-coal and have no doubt there are large deposits of it in that vicinity, as well as around the head of Willow Creek. Six miles from the mouth of Kenzua Creek, on the north side, is good land for cultivation. Also, up Sugar Run, about the same distance from the Allegany, is a fine tract of land. East from the THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 149 head of Stump Creek I think the land is not quite as valuble for farming as it is farther north, toward the state line, beyond which it is excellent From the source of Stump Creek the land is good for about ten miles, when the surface becomes very uneven, as it is near the river, on most of the streams. Be- tween the Keiizua and Stump Creek I have seen cherry trees from two to three feet in diameter, straight, and nearly sixty feet to the fir6t branch. White- wood is also interspersed through this region, of the finest quality, and growing to an immense size. Groves of smali cherry trees, from six to fif- teen inches in diameter, were quite numerous, and aiinUar groves of white ash were often met with in places where the first growth had been prostrated bv the wind. •13 CHAPTER XIY. HUNTING AND TRAPPING. In November, 1821, in company with Walter Sea- man, John Campbell and George Morrison, I went on a general hunting expedition to catch elk, hunt bears, deer and panthers, and to trap foxes and sables. We hired a man named Goodwin, with a horse, to act as porter to the expedition, and Marshall Whitcomb as cook and camp-keeper.. We were six in all, in a double sleigh. Having gone about six miles we found the tracks of a panther. I told Seaman and Goodwin that I must go with the sleigh, and that they should follow the tracks, and if they did not come np with the panther in two or three miles to return and they would find me encamped at night about three mileu ahead. Campbell and Morrison were forward, and Whitcomb had charge of the dogs. Seaman and Goodwin took two dogs with them and followed the track, finding it nearly parallel with the road. They had proceeded but two miles when the panther came out from under some rocks. Seaman tired and brought him down. I heard the gun and led out to them. They answered, and soon I saw them drag out a very large panther, weighing about i hundred pounds, and place it on the sleigh. THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 151 Proceeding on we found Morrison and Campbell making a fire for us ; they had not killed anything. We there encamped for the night and arranged our hunting matters. The next morning Morrison hunted on the north side of the road, Seaman on the south side and I went on in the road, telling them that I would stand as good a chance as either of them. We were all to meet at four corners about seven miles beyond and encamp that night. Three miles ahead was an open beech woods on the side of a hill down which the road passed ; and in the road, at the bottom of the hill, trotting along towards me, I saw nine wolves. I stepped behind a large beech tree and waited their approach. A large tree with the leaves on had fallen across the road about twenty rods from me, and the wolves came up and stopped behind it, so that I could but partially see one of them. I fired at him and he rolled over once or twice and then got up and ran west. I followed him, but he would skulk around in the tops of fallen trees and thickets. I fired at him three times at a great distance but did not succeed in killing him. I followed him until three o'clock in the afternoon and it was night before I arrived at the place where I first shot at him. Then I had seven miles further to go after dark to our en- campment at the four corners, which I reached about eleven o'clock, very tired. During the night snow fell ten inches deep, and of course covered the wolf's tracks, which prevented me from following him the next day, when I should probably have found him dead. During the day Goodwin returned to Kenzus 152 PIONEER LIFE J OE, with the horses and sleigh, and was to come back with but one of the horses. That morning Morrison and Whitcomb set forty sable traps, called dead-falls ; they were so constructed that when the sable came to eat the bait a small log would fall and kill him. Seaman, Campbell and myself, with two dogs, went forth on a hunt. We crossed the Kenzua, and going south about twelve miles, found the fresh tracks of a large sized elk, which we followed one mile and found its bed of the night previous* We remained y/ith the dogs, and Campbell went ahead about a hundred rods, when he saw a fine buck elk. He called to us to let the dogs go ; we did so, and the elk ran north toward Smethport, about nine miles, and stopped on a rock. A deer pursued by two wolves, passing near the rock, so frightened our dogs that they left the elk and made for the camp. When we arrived and saw the wolves tracks we mistook them for those of our dogs, thinking they had gone after the deer. We followed down the creek eleven miles to a settlement, and inquiring for the dogs, were told that two wolves had brought in a deer,, but that they had not seen any dogs. We could not credit this story, and searched until three o'clock, think- ing that the inhabitants had concealed them. Sea- man and Campbell returned to the camp, leaving me to keep up the search for the dogs. The next day I went up Potato creek, where a man said he had seen a handsome black hound, which I thought must be ours. All day I searched for the dogs up ihe creek, and passed the night twelve miles from THIRTY YEARS A HEKTEB. 153 the settlement, still under the impression that the inhabitants had concealed them. The next day I went to Smethport, and there found a man who said there were people enough in the vicinity that would hide my dogs, I hired him to assist me in my search, but of course we were unsuccessful. I remained at Smethport that night, and the next day returned to the camp, but found no one there except the dogs that 1 had lost. I knew then that the wolves had frightened the dogs from the elk. In the evening the re&t of the party came in from hunting. I found that during our absence Morrison had killed three deer, and Whitcomb had caught ten sables ; Camp- bell and Seaman had also each killed a deer since they arrived. I inquired why they did not go elk hunting, as they had all the dogs with them ? Seaman replied that if the dogs had stopped twenty elk, they could not have caught one, for none but me could rope one. I said that perhaps they could and per- haps not, but it might be that I could not do so myself. I told them that they must prepare for another campaign. The next day I remained at the camp to bake bread, and the rest hunted. I baked it in the ashes, and having good success, finished by two o'clock. Then I took my gun and went about a mile and a half, and came to the tracks of seven "deer. I followed them half a mile and found the deer lying in a thicket. I got upon a log to see them, when a 'arge doe jumped up. I fired and broke her shoulder blade. She ran, her fawn after her ; and by the time I had loaded my gun and was prepared to follow. 154 PIONEER LIFE J CB, Seaman's dog, who had gnawed his rope and broke- loose, came up and put off on the track. I followed them about a mile, but it was so late that I returned to the camp, where I arrived at eight o'clock. The dog caught the deer and did not return for three days, but when he came he looked fat and sleek, having eaten the deer. When I arrived at the camp they inquired what luck I had. I told them that if it had not been for Seaman's dog, I would have had a fine doe, for I had wounded it and it could not have gone far before I should have shot it. I told them we must hunt for elk the next day, and that they must build another camp on the south side of the Kenzua, six miles from the main stream and twelve or fourteen from the old camp, as I did not believe there were any more elk on the west side of the creek, where we were now stationed. This they agreed to ; but thought that Goodwin (who had now got back with his horse) and Whitcomb had better go and make the camp, and the rest start immediately after elk. We took four dogs with us and were loaded with four days provisions. Crossing the Kenzua, we went southwest about twelve miles, and found the tracks of seven elk, which we followed three miles and then encamped for the night. The next morning we followed them five miles and found the fresh tracks of the same elk returning. I said it was no use to try to take one alive, for they were all does and young elk, and that we had better try to kill them. Morrison and Seaman said they wanted to be the ones to go on. So they went and we stayed THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 155 behiud with the dogs. They were told to whistle if the elk saw them and run so that they could not get a shot, and we would let the dogs go. They had not gone more than a hundred yards when we heard them whistle. We let the dogs loose and they stopped the herd about a mile distant. Morrison and Seaman came up with them in a few minutes and shot three. After we had dressed them, Morrison and Seaman wished to take the dogs and attempt to kill one or two more, but I was afraid the dogs would not run, in consequence of having been fed too much. The four elk ran together about two miles, when three of them turned off to one side, and all the dogs but mine returned. The men followed the other dog and elk twelve miles, when they saw the dog lying down beside a large log, and supposed that he had lain down to rest, and of course thought the elk had gone on ; but when Morrison called to the dog, " Hunter, have you given out? he sprang over the log, gave a yelp and up jumped the elk. It was so tired, how- ever, that it did not go more than twenty rods before Morrison killed it. One of the men procured fuel whilst the other skinned the elk. They stretched the skin on poles, made a fire near it but passed a very uncomfortable night, as it snowed quite hard. The next morning, taking their elk skin with them, they started for the place where Campbell and myself had made quite a comfortable encampment, arriving about eleven o'clock. I told them I thought instead of having our new camping place on the Kenzua, we had better make it on a road called the Kittaning 156 riONEER life; op road, as we should not have so far to carry our game, to which the others assented. Seaman then obtained permission to go home and remain about a week, and the following day we proceeded by way of the Kit- taning road, to our encampment near the Four Corners. On our road we found an old log house, which was built at the time the road was made. The roof had fallen in, but we decided to repair and make it our head quarters. Whitcomb had caught twenty-three sables, and Morrison had killed two deer. That night, for the first time in three weeks, our whole party was together. The following day Morrison and Seaman went home, and the remainder of us proceeded to the Kittaning block-house, which we fitted up for use. Next day Goodwin brought in the three elk which had been killed, and after dinner Campbell, Morrison and myself went to hunting, and "Whitcomb to set sable traps After hunting until the afternoon of the next day, we found the track of a single elk, which we judged to be a young buck. Wq followed it seven miles and then stopped for the night. The next morning we were early on the trail, and about ten o'clock we found the tracks quite fresh, and knowing the animal could not be far away, we let loose the dogs, which soon came up with him. He ran near our second camp, keeping a west course. In his course he passed a fox-trap which I had set several days before, and in passing, I discovered that a large fox was in the trap. I dis- patched him with my tomahawk, and left him in the trap. The elk, still keeping west, crossed two small THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 157 branches of the Kenzua, and the Smethport road, and then, turning north, ascended a mountain, stop- ping on a rock about twenty-five feet high. We did not arrive until nine o'clock, when, on approaching the elk, I observed to my chagrin that it was a doe. I communicated my discovery to Morrison, who had the gun, and he shot her. We then went down to the Tuneangwant, and encamped. It was after mid- night when we had our arrangements completed, and soon after a furious storm of hail and snow set in which covered the earth, to the depth of two feet, before morning. The following day we skinned the elk, and hung up the meat where it was killed. We then remained there a day and a half, waiting for more favorable weather. The third day the weather became somewhat more propitious, and we set out for the camp at the Cor- ners, finding it very difficult traveling, as the snow was three feet deep. We arrived there about nine o'clock that .evening, nearly exhausted, from toiling through the deep snow. Campbell and Morrison were discouraged, believing it useless to attempt catching an elk while the snow was so deep, and the next morning we started for home, arriving at my house at Cold Spring late at night. The next day I returned to Kenzua, and offered Morrison and Campbell my share of every thing but the sable skins if they would bring home the meat and skins. They did not wish to go, and accordingly I went alone to the Kittaning block-house, where I found Seaman, Whitcomb and Goodwin, with forty sable 14 158 pioneer life; or, skins and the meat of four elk. The next day Whit- comb and Goodwin conveyed to Kenzua the meat of the fifteen deer we had killed, while Seaman and myself remained behind, resolved, if possible, to catch an elk. The next day at noon it began to thaw, and we set out with two of our best dogs, in search of tracks. We returned to our block-house that eve- ning. Seaman felt considerably disheartened and proposed that we should give up the hunt and go iiome. I could not abandon the idea of making one more effort, and to encourage my companion I told him of my success two years before, when I took two elk in less than a month, and received as my share three hundred and sixty dollars. This gave him new animation, and he said he would stick by me as long as there Was a * flake of snow to track them by. The following day, when we had proceed- ed about four miles we found some large tracks which had been made about the time of the hail- storm. We followed them until about three o'clock, when we concluded that they must have gone to the rocks at the head of Marvin's Creek, and decided to return to our block-house, and in the morning endeavor to strike the trail between that place and the creek. The next day we found the track about three o'clock, and followed until night when we made a comfortable camp. Our spirits for the past day had not flagged, and now that we seemed so near the object of our long and weary hunt, we felt impatient for the morning, feeling confident that we should secure our prize before another night. In- THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 159 deed, we had already sold him in imagination, and each was counting on his share of the thousand dollars it might bring, while the lowest figure was not less than three hundred dollars. "We arose m the morning in high spirits, took a hasty breakfast, and by daylight were on the track. About eight o'clock the snow began to fall very rapidly, and soon obliterated every vestige of the trail. But the icy sheet did not lie colder upon the earth than it did upon our hopes. We followed on in the best way we could until noon, when it was impossible to pro- ceed farther, and we encamped. By night the wea- ther cleared up, and the cold became intense. The following night was the coldest one we experienced that winter. The next day we decided to return home. We proceeded to the Kenzua, which we descended on the ice to the Kittaning road about three miles from the Corners, and then went to our first camp, where we staid that night. We there struck a balance of the profit and loss of the expe- dition. The wages of the men amounted to thirty dollars; provision for ourselves and provender for the horse fifteen dollars; a dog had been lost which had cost ten dollars ; making the total expense fifty- five dollars, besides our time. Of the four partners to the expedition, two were out a month, and the other two five weeks, making in all one hundred and twenty-six days. The receipts were forty sable-skins and fifteen deer-skins at seventy-five cents each ; the panther's head brought a bounty of 6ix dollars, in all forty-seven dollars and forty-five cents; which, 160 pioneer life; ok, with the venison, was all we obtained. The next day we returned home. On our arrival at Kenzua T gave my share of the venison and elk-skins in the woods to my partners, as I resided at such a distance that I did not think they would pay fur the trouble of conveying home. In October, 1823, in company with John Camp- bell, Marshall Whitcomb and a Mr. Whitmore, I set out from Kenzua, in a large canoe, of above three tons burthen, to hunt and fish down the Alle any. We took with us four dogs and a seine. At the Big Bend, three miles below Kenzua, we took seven barrels of fish of various kinds, among which were salmon, muskelonge, and some remarkably fine speci- mens of pike as well as white and yellow bass. We proceeded down to Glade Bun, two miles above Warren, where we caught two barrels of fish and killed a fawn and buck deer. At the village we caught another barrel of fish. At Dunn's Eddy, nine miles oelow Warren, we killed two deer, but took no fish. One of the deer was a spike buck — the antlers running up straight, without branches. Three miles below, at the residence of Robert Thompson, we caught two barrels of fish, among which were some immense muskelonge ; and also killed five deer. We then moved down about four- teen miles, to White Oak Shoot, where we shot two deer. Returning from our hunt, we again went to fishing with our seine, assisted by a resident there, named Daniel Jones, and three of his sons. Here we had a large haul, the weight of the fish being so THIRTY YEAES A HUNTER. 161 great as to break the seine. The water being very clear, we conld see an immense number of fish in the seine; not less, as we judged, than thirty barrels. I jumped in where the water was three feet deep, and held one side of the seine, while Jones held the other , but in spite of all our efforts, two-thirds of the fish escaped. We secured, however, about ten barrels. The seine was so badly torn that it occu pied three of us nearly a day to repair it ; while so engaged Whitmore, Campbell and the boys went out with the dogs and killed three deer. On draw- ing the net again, the fish had all disappeared ; and we caught but twenty or thirty. At Horse Creek, seventeen miles below, we killed two deer. That evening I was at Oil Creek, three miles below, and there I heard that two men named Cams, had threatened, if we hunted any farther down the river, to shoot our dogs, tar and feather me, and then, if the others did not leave the vicinity, to treat them to a coat of the same. I told my informant that I should come down there and hunt, and give the Cams an opportunity of executing their threat, if they could ; but I thought it was .a game at which two could play. I considered their interference entirely uncalled for, unless I killed a deer on their own land. Mrs. Holiday, who kept a tavern for raftsmen, said they were ugly men, and ad7ised me to keep away, as she was unwilling to have an old customer injured. The next day the Cams went down to Franklin, five miles below their residence, and said that a man named Tome, and two others, •14 162 pioneer life; or, were hunting down the river, killing all the deer, and that they would tar and feather him, kill his dogs and send him home, if he came any farther down. They asked a man named Thomas Hewling, who kept a tavern there, what sort of a man Tome was. Hewling said he was a good-natured sort of a man, but if they attempted any violence they would find trouble, as he was a stout, active man, and not easily frightened. Campbell was rather timid, and thought we had better leave the vicinity. I told him that I should hunt there one day, at least, to see what they would do. Whitmore went off with the dogs in search of deer, and I told them if they would hunt down the river to Franklin I would join them there at night. Whitmore proceeded to hunt on one side of the river, and I on the other, within fifty rods of the house of one of the Cams. Before I had been there a long time, Cams came out and asked if I was hunting in their vicinity. I replied that I was, as game was more abundant there than where I lived. He said that he would join me a short time, and I told him that I had no objection to his taking an equal chance with me. Whitmore killed a deer in the water, and drove another into the river which Cams shot, and we divided it equally with him. On our arrival at Franklin we found Campbell there, with a large buck which he had killed. The next day we killed in that vicinity three deer, the following another, and the next day two more, when we started homeward. While going home, the water was so high that we did not try to THIBTY YEABS A HUNTER. 163 fish, except in one place, when we obtained over one hundred fine salmon. We killed, during the hunt, sixty-seven deer. This was my last hunting expe- dition CHAPTER XV. THE BEAR ITS NATURE AND HABITS I have found the favorite haunt of bears to be in Lycoming county, above Pine Creek, on the head waters of Larry's Creek, and on the first fork of Pine Creek. I have also found them near the head of Kettle Creek, Cedar Run, and Young "Woman's Creek. In the month of August they were to be found traveling west, and crossing Pine Creek, twen- ty-four miles from the mouth, where they had a beaten road that might be followed fifteen or twenty miles. At that time the bears were lean and their skins were worthless, we did not, therefore wish to kill them. I have noticed that generally every sev- enth year the bears travel west in August, and return about the middle of October, but scattering wide apart and paying no attention to the path. I have also noticed that the winter succeeding the season in which they travel west is a very hard one. In severe winters ths bears retire to the holes that they last occupied, whether it is ten, thirty or sixty miles distant, and when started they go in a straight course, not stopping for mountains, rivers or other obstructions, and when one is seen traveling in a direct line, without stopping, it is pretty certain thai THIRTY TEAKS A HUNTER. 165 he is on the way to his hole. In very open winters they remain but a week or two in their holes. In more severe winters when they lie long in their holes the usual method is to smoke them out. After ascertaining by the tracks, or by entering the holes, that they are within, a cloth is covered with a mix- ture of lard and sulphur, ignited and inserted on a pole as far possible. The fumes of the burning sulphur will soon drive forth any bears that may be concealed there, two or three, sometimes taking up their quarters in one den. It is well to have a dog along, as in case of there being more than one bear the dog will prove useful in driving one of them up a tree. I have mentioned this manner of hunting bears in another place, but as I am about explaining their nature and habits, it might not be out of place to repeat it here. Many suppose that the bear is constantly on the move, because seldom seen at rest. The reason of this is that when one who is not a hunter finds a bear, the animal has seen him first, and moves off, while he supposes that the bear was in motion before discovered The truth is that from the middle of May until the same time in August, the bear sleeps as much as any other animal. 1 have seen them during the day sleeping by a log or among the brakes, and occasionally I have surprised and killed a bear while asleep, but not often, as they are worthless at this season. They are very vora- cious, and this often tempts them into the settle- ments for forage, and renders them an easy prey to traps and bear-houses. When he obtains sight or 166 pioneer life; 01?, scent of any thing lie desires, x ae takes it, regard- less of traps, and thus falls an easy prey. I have described the manner of constructing bear-houses, in another chapter. When berries and nuts are to be found, he doe? not leave the woods, but in the absence of these he helps himself without ceremony to any sheep, calf or hog that may come within his reach. If a bait is hung even within a few rods of a dwelling, they will come for it, if they scent it. In one instance a bear took a hog weighing one hundred and fifty pounds from a sty within four rods of the dwelling. The bear came in the early part of the evening, and broke down the roof of the sty, the hog protesting so loudly against the proceeding that the man in the house heard his squeals, but suspect- ing the cause, he did not dare to venture out and face the bear, as he had no gun. About half an hour after, I passed the place, and the man informed me of what had occurred. I told him he should have attacked the bear with an axe, if he had no gun. He replied that he did not wish to risk him- self in such company, without a good weapon. On my way I passed the residence of a young naan whom I sent back with a gun. The two went in pursuit of the bear, and found him feasting on the hog, in a thicket, not more than twenty-five rods from the house. They fired and the bear rushed with a loud growl out of the thicket. Men and dogs took to their heels, but on visiting the spot in the morning the bear was found dead. He was very largo, and the skin was valuable, and as he had THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 167 only made a beginning upon the hog, his hide and carcass more than* paid for the damage he had done. About the first of [November is the rutting season for bears, and at this time the old he-bears keep up a noise which may be heard a mile. They are very fond of honey, and when one finds a bee-tree, he will not rest until he has obtained the honey. Once while I was in the woods hunting I heard a noise like that made by a bear while in a tree after nuts. It seemed somewhat strange, as it was not the season for nuts, and after reconnoitering for some time, I discovered a bear high up on a dead pine tree, scratching and pawing at the wood very industriously. I resolved to ascertain the cause of his strange conduct, and seated myself, where I could see the performance. In about half an hour he had penetrated the shell, and thrusting in his paws he brought them out loaded with honey. The bees flew at him, stinging his head, paws and tongue. He rubbed his head with his reeking paws, but did not allow the stings to interrupt his feast for a mo- ment. He continued to gorge himself, and growl his impotent rage at his little tormentors, until I had witnessed enough, when I called loudly to him. He looked at me, but was so intent upon his repast that he paid but little attention. I repeated my call and swung my hat, when he comprehended the nature of the intruder, and letting go his hold he dropped to the ground, and made a precipitate retreat. I allowed him to move away unmolested, as the skin and flesh were worthless, it not being the season for 168 pioneer life; OB, them, and I did not wish to kill him out of mere wantonness. The bear has an Instinctive fear of man, and unless wounded will always flee from his presence. When wounded they will fight with a desperation which renders it perilous to attack them. Once while out on a deer-hunt, my wanderings hav- ing led me to a grove of tall cherry-trees, I heard a crackling and rustling overhead. After looking and listening awhile I perceived a bear in a lofty cherry- tree, gathering the fruit, it being the season when it was ripe. He would break and drop to the earth the large limbs which were covered with fruit, watching each limb until it reached the ground, and if one lodged on a lower branch, he went down and liber- ated it. I observed his proceedings for fifteen or twenty minutes, and then concealing myself behind a tree, I called to him at the top of my voice If a sudden shock of an earthquake had prostrated the tree in which he was stationed, Bruin could not have experienced more astonishment than he exhibited at the sound of my voice, breaking the stillness of the forest. He raised himself erect upon his haunches and stood looking eagerly around with a ludicrous mixture of astonishment and defiance. I stepped out from my concealment, and again called, when, with a loud cry of terror, he slipped off the limb, but while still grasping it with his fore paws he looked to the ground. The tree leaned over a small precipice, and if he relinquished his hold he must fall at least a hundred feet. He hung there appa- rently balancing the matter in his mind, for a few THEBTV YEARS A HUNTER. T59 minutes, when hia dread of man prevailed, and gradually relaxing his hold, he fell heavily to the earth, relied up like a ball Ke quickly recovered from the shock, and straightening himself out, he made the best possible use of his legs, and was soon out of sight I allowed hyn to escape unharmed for the same reason as the one last mentioned. With many I am aware this would not be considered suffi- cient reason for permitting a bear to escape, after having it in my power ; but I never wantonly killed an animal, when I could gain nothing by its destruc- tion. From October to May their skins are good, and at this season I always killed all I could. With a true hunter it is not the destruction of life which affords the pleasure of the chase ; it is the excitement attendant upon the very uncertainty of it which induces men even to leave luxurious homes and ex* po6e themselves to the hardships and perils of the wilderness. Even when, after a weary -chase, the game is brought down, he cannot, after the first thrill of triumph, look without a pang of remorse, upon the form which was so beautifully adapted to its situation, and which his hand has reduced to a mere lump of flesh. But with us, who made our homes in the wil- derness, there was a stronger motive than love of excitement for seeking out and destroying the deni- zens of the forest. We did it in obedience to the primal law of nature : for the subsistance or defence of ourselves and those whom we were oound by the ties of nature to support and defend. When neither of these demanded the destruction of an animal, J 170 pioneer life; ok, never felt any desire to harm it. It is often danger- ous to meet an old she-bear with her cubs, although the old one will endeavor to escape with her young, but the simple creatures will often come directly up to a man when they meet him, and the enraged dam will attack him with a fury which leaves him no hope but in his weapon. If he attempts to flee, the cubs will follow him, which increases the rage of the old bear. A few years since, I was near the south bank of the Allegany river, in Cattaraugus county, New York, examining a road which had been made for drawing logs, when I observed three black animals approaching me, but thinking they were hogs, I paid no attention to them. When I again looked in the same direction they were but a short distance from me, and I perceived that it was a bear with two cubs. I was somewhat alarmed, as I knew the ferocity of a bear when with her young, but knowing there wa3 no chance for flight, I seized a handspike and pre- pared to defend myself the best I could. As the bear came near she raised herself erect and advanced with open mouth. When she was within reach I prostrated her by a blow upon the back. She fell upon one of her cubs, injuring it severely. This enraged her still more, and she sprang up and again rushed at me. I struck her on the head, and she fell again. She rose and slowly retired with the wounded cub. The other cub ran off in another direction, and I attempted to capture it, but it continually eluded me just as I had it almost within my grasp. After chasing it nearly half a mile I finally succeeded in THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 171 taking it by throwing ray coat over it. It was but little larger than a good-sized cat, and I carried it home in a basket which I borrowed of an Indian who lived in the vicinity. When a bear is attacked and wishes merely to act upon the defensive, it stands erect and with its fore-paws repels the attack. If it wishes to close in with an enemy, it grasps it with its fore-paws, while with its teeth and hind-paws it tears its victim in pieces. I know of but one animal rang- ing our forests which I think capable of defending itself successfully against a bear — that is a buck elk with full-grown antlers. I never knew of a contest between a bear and an elk, but I have no doubt the elk would prove more than a match. Bears seldom fight among themselves, and I never witnessed but one instance of a conflict between two of them. It was in November, a light snow lay upon the ground and in wandering through the woods I struck the tracks of three bears. After following them some distance I arrived at a place which had evidently been the scene of a desperate encounter. The snow and shrubbery were beaten down and the ground covered with blood. As there were no other tracks in the vicinity than those of the bears, they were undoubtedly the belligerents. Half a mile beyond' were the marks of another struggle. At this place one of the animals had taken another direction from the other two, leaving no blood in the track. He had probably become disgusted at the conduct of his companions, and left them to fight it out between themselves. I continued on the track of the two, 172 PIONEEE LIF$ ; OK, and before night the dogs treed one of them and 1 .shot it through the head. Near by I found a shelter about four feet wide, and twice that length, formed by a projecting rock, under which I dragged the dead bear, and prepared to pass the night. The animal bore shocking marks of the recent encounter, his throat and forward parts being so badly lacerated that he could not have survived the winter. About dark it commenced raining, and I considered myself fortunate in having found so snug a shelter. About nine o'clock two panthers made their appearance, and finding what was perhaps their jisual quarters invaded, they set up a screaming that would have sent the blood to the stoutest heart. I took my gun in one hand, my tomahawk in the other, while my dog stood near me, and I resolved, if they should attack me, to give them a warm reception. They kept up their fearful serenade until midnight, when they withdrew, and I heard no more of them. In the morning all traces of the other bears was obliterated, and I was accordingly compelled to abandon the idea of any further search for them. I have tamed at different times four bears, but disposed of them when they were about a year old, except the one I have now in my possession. I com- menced training this one when he was about a year (*!d # at first using the lash freely, but I soon found that whipping did not subdue him, but rendered him obstinate. I then tried milder means, and soon had him completely under my control. I taught him to lead bv -nnlline* gently upon the string, offering food THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. l7o at the same time. He soon learned to follow when- ever I pulled upon the string, and spoke his name. After this he would perform any thing I ordered, if I could make him understand what I wished. By persuasion they may be taught almost any thing that a brute can learn, but will not be driven. Sometimes however, when they understand what is required of them, and refuse to obey, it may be necessary to use the lash. When a complete mastery is once obtained over it, the bear is as easily taught as any animal I ever attempted to train. They are very irritable when touched from behind, and on one occasion as I was leading my bear through a gate, he hung back, and a person struck him behind with a stick, when he sprang forward and bit me severely in the leg. At another time, while in the house, teaching him to walk backward, he struck against a table, when he seized me by the the hand. He instantly lay down and began to cry, knowing the whipping which awaited him. My bear will allow any animal to approach him, but if they should touch him behind, he resents it at once. In the months of July and August, when the weather is very warm, bears re- quire water in which to wallow. They subsist, during the early spring, upon the worms which they find under the bark of dead trees, as well as under stones and pieces of wood. When the grass and herbage begins to sprout they feed upon that, but at this sea- son they are always savage with hunger, and will attack any animal which affords a prospect of a meal. It is at this season that they are the most *I5 1 74 PIONBEB UFE ; OB, troublesome to the settlements, for if they once obtain a taste of a domestic animal they will prfcwl around the settlement until July, when they can find plenty of blossoms and berries, of which they are very fond. As soon as nuts ripen they feed upon them, particularly atoms, chestnuts and beechnuts. My first serious adventure with beats was when 1 was about fourteen years of age. Alexander Smith and James McMullen had left my father's house to hunt, and tracked seven raccoons tp their hole in the rocks. Having no means of driving then out, they returned home. The next day we prepared matches and yellow pitch pine torches, and I accompanied them. When we arrived at the hole, Smith and my- self entered, while McMullen remained outside to kill them as they emerged. The entrance for twenty- five feet was nigh enough to admit our walking upright, when it became narrower, and we were compelled to creep upon our hands and knees. We penetrated as far as neccessary, and then, throwing in a lighted match, we lay still, waiting the result. Four of the animals soon went past us, and the next moment we heard the report of Smith's gun. Upon ^arriving at the outside, however, we ascertained that |he had not killed any of the animals, having become | so much excited that he had fired at random. The ; the next time Smith remained outside with the gun, and McMullen entered the cave with me. We went in about as far as before, threw our matches, and lis- tened. In a short time I heard a noise that I thought was produced by some animals larger than a raccoon. THIBTY tEABS A mXNTEE,. 175 I took the light from the baad of my companion, and peering into the Jiole I discovered two bears moving toward ns. I told McMnllen, who secreted himself in a hole near the entrance. In attempting to foil him I stumbled, fell, and the bears passed over Smith shot the largest one as it emerged from tV hole. He was a very large animal, weighing three hundred pounds. As we had no dogs, the smaller one escaped. lj^ CHAPTER XVI. HUNTING DEEP. AT DIFFERENT SEASONS. In the latter part of June, deer generally keep themselves in the swales, or marshes, near the small streams, where the grass starts the earliest. The usual method of hunting them at these places was to encamp in the vicinity, and watch early in the morn- ing and late at evening, when they go out to feed. If the woods are not open, the hunter ascended a tree or eminence where he could command a more extended view. When he discovered a deer, he slip- ped down, and endeavored to approach it by another direction than the one in which they were moving, as they always look behind them for danger. It is always necessary for the hunter to keep on the lee- ward side of the deer, as their keen scent will detect I his presence and flee, long before he can approach within shot, if the wind blows from him to the deer. The manner of curing the meat is the same as that / of the elk. It is first cut from the bone in thin slices ' and salted in the skin. It is easily preserved, less than a pint of salt with a little saltpeter, being suffi- cient for a deer. When it has lain from twelve to twenty-four hours, a scaffold is built, upon which the meat is spread, and a slow lire built underneath. THIBTT YBABS A- HUNTER. 177 If the weather was stormy, the skin could be spread over the meat, and the drying still continued, the fire being gradually increased until the meat was thoroughly cured. In the mean time the hunter could continue his operations without much interrup- tion, as the fire had no effect in frightening away the deer. When I went on a hunt, I usually carried a good supply of salt, and arranged it so that if I did not return at the end of three days a man foDowed me with a horse, bringing me supplies, and conveying home the venison I had taken. During all my hunts I kept a constant lookout for deer licks, and if I found none in a place favorable for deer, I made one near an unfailing spring. The manner in which I made the lick was to bore several holes in a black oak log with an augur which I always carried with me for the purpose, and into them put about three pints of salt, with a small quantity of saltpeter, and insert a plug in each hole. The wood soon becoming satura- ted with the salt, the deer would gnaw it. If I found a lick to which the deer at the proper season resorted , I proceeded at once to build a scaffold, in order that the deer might become accustomed to the sight of it before I made use of it. If a tree stood within three or four rods of the lick I built my scaffold upon that If there was no tree in a favorable place, I set four crotches in the earth, lay poles across, and make a screen of bushes or bark to conceal myself from the deer. About a month after I had prepared a log, I visited it, and if the deer had found it, I built a scaffold near it. fn hunting at these licks, I mounted 178 the scaffold by a ladder which I drew up after me, and patiently awaited the approach of the deer. If none came during the day, I prepared a torch of pitch pine, sometimes adding lard or bear's grease, which I swung upon a pole reaching from the scaf- fold to the ground. The torch was attached to a crane of withes and bark, made to slide upon the pole, and slipped down by a cord to within three feet of the ground. As the deer came along, they would stop and stare &t the light, forming an easy mark for me. When alone in these expeditions, I was always provided with two guns, a musket and a rifle. If several deer came at once within shot, I iired the musket, which was loaded with buckshot, and the deer frequently stood fixed to the spot, not knowing which way to flee, and I could kill three or four before coming down from the scaffold. Besides the light near the ground, I had another upon the scaffold, about as high as my head, and when firing from the scaffold, I raised the gun above the range of the deer, and lower it gradually until the end of the barrel became dark, and then fire, scarcely ever missing my aim. When I fired from the ground by torchlight, I pointed the gun below the game, and raised it till the end became dark. After killing the first ones, there is no further chance that night, as the smell of the blood will frighten away the deer. I generally had a companion and a dog, and one of us remained at a distance with the dog, while the other watched from the scaffold. In the morning, if any were wounded, we set the dog on the track, if THIETY TEAKS A HUNTEE. 179 we could not track it by the blood without difficulty. About the tenth of November, the deer begin to -ravel from one place to another, and by that time I- jad generally chosen my hunting ground. I would ake my station upon the summit of some hill, where [ could command a view in all directions. I would iome ^mes mount a tree to the height of fifty feet. 3n one occasion I discovered from the top of a tree even deer and three bears. I descended and killed wo of the deer, but the bears escaped. My first lessons in hunting were received from an )ld hunter, named John Mills. He lived near my ather's, and wishing to remove to Canada, sold his arm to my father. He then offered to sell me his log, and teach me all he knew aoout deer hunting, or fifteen cfollars, which I accepted, I had already mnted several years, but his instructions were of greater value to me than all my previous experience. Che substance of his instructions I have given the •eader. The following autumn I went out on a hunt- ng expedition, taking with me the dog I had bought >f Mills and another one which I had previously >wned. I followed the directions I had received, md with a success which showed their value. From ;he early part of October until the first of February [ killed twenty-eight bears and a large number of leer. Mills also taught ' me, among other things, iow to train dogs for hunting, as well as the kind of tnimals to select. The usual resorts for deer at dif- ferent seasons, which I also learned from my Mentor ire as follows. In June they frequent beech and 180 pioneer life; OB, maple woods, or feed in the marshes bordering on the streams. About the last of July they take to the highlands, among the chestnut and white oak woods, feeding on pea-vines ond other herbage. In the hot weather of August they lie in the thiclcest shades upon high hills, and at this time the manner of hunting them is to watch by a spring, as near the summit of a hill as may be found. They will come at evening to drink, and fall an easy prey to the hunter as he lies concealed within a few yards. The last of September the deer begin to leave the thick- ets and move from one place to another, and for several months they are constantly in motion. The hunter has only to station himself near one of their paths, and shoot them as they pass. When the first snows come they can be tracked to the places where herds of them lie at night, and the hunter can keep near a herd and pick them off with his rifle. In 1805 a colony consisting of about forty families of English people, made a settlement between the first and second forks of Pine Oreek. They cleared about two hundred and fifty acres of land, and built several good houses, but being unaccustomed to the hardships and dangers of pioneer life, they aban- doned the settlement after struggling along for five year3. As soon as the coast was clear, the deer from all the country around came to feed in the cul- tivated fields and sunny pastures of the deserted settlement. This afforded a capital opportunity for hunters, and the place became a favorite resort for them. We would lodge in the upper story of some THIETY YBAE8 A HUNTER. 181 deserted house, and in the morning looking out of a window, could see perhaps forty deer. I have often shot a couple of deer from the window before leaving the house in the morning. From this con- gregation of deer in the openings a man in the vicinity conceived the idea of entrapping them in fields cleared and sowed with wheat or grass. The next season he accordingly cleared two acres, partly on a hill-side, built a high fence around it and sowed it with wheat. About the last of August, when the young wheat had obtained a good start, he made openings in the fence to admit the deer. "When they had fed upon the wheat 'for three weeks, it was gnawed so close that he closed the fence for a few weeks to give it a fresh start. About the first of October he again opened the fence for a week, when he kept it closed till near the middle of November. The deer had now become wonted to the place, and he made places in the fence where they could easily leap into the field, but once in they could not get out. In a few days he had two bucks and two does in his enclosure. He killed the bucks, and let the does stay in the field to decoy other deer. This had the desired effect, and during the season he took in this manner between sixty and seventy deer. This method is successful only where deer are numerous. The wheat crop is not materially injured, if the deer are not permitted to remain on it too long. The . best kind of dog for hunting deer is a large variety, half bloodhound, a quarter cur and the other quarter grayhound. I have had two dogs of this kind, for JO 182 pioneer life; OB, one of which I paid ten dollars and for the other six. They were of more practical value than four smaller dogs would have been. When they were once in chase of a deer, they would not lose one in ten. So famous did they become for their prowess, that if any of the neighbors saw them running, they would exclaim, "There are Tome's dogs; the deer cannot be far off." The deer could never baffle them by any of their usual etrategems, and they often ran them down before they reached the water. Those wishing to hunt successfully should always procure at any cost, the largest and best dogs to be found. A fawn when very young, can be easily tamed and kept near the house. They soon become attached to their home, and if removed twenty miles will find their way back in a few days, unless forcibly prevented. I have never succeded in making a deer s f and and suffer me to milk her, nor in breaking one to the halter. They can be coaxed to follow, but will not be led. A doe, if at perfect liberty, will remain about half the time near the house where it was brought up, and the other half in the woods, but never forgets to return. When returning home, it always takes a straight course, through fields, streams and forests, unless attacked. They are very quiet and good-natured in a domesticated state, unless they have young, and then they will stamp, kick and drive every other animal from them. The bucks, until they are a year old, are very mild and gentle, but even then they will not learn to do any labor. At two years old they are very untractable, THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 1$3 and cannot be subdued by whipping or any other means, but will plunge at their keeper upon every opportunity. At three years old it is dangerous to approach them at any time after the middle of Sep- tember, when their antlers have attained their full size, until they shed them in February. Their vi- ciousness increases with their years, and unless kept in a park they are very dangerous animals. ; The color of the deer changes twice during the year. They shed their hair the last of April, and in May their color is a bright red. By the last ot October they are covered with a short coat of a blue color. The color of the young fawns is a light red- dish brown, beautifully variegated with small white spots. About the middle of October these spots* disappear, and they are then bluish, like the old ones- In November their hind quarters become white in places. I have seen in my life, two white deer. The first one I saw with a drove of other deer eating moss in the Susquehannah river, where I was fire-hunting. Three years afterward, I saw another, while hunting for elk at night, fifteen miles above the place where I had seen the first. I could have killed both, but being such rare specimens, I let them go. They are not a distinct species of deer, but are merely deviations from the general color of common deer. Every seventh year in April, they move west in herds of from three to fifteen, generally going about thirty miles from their usual haunts, and remaining, if undisturbed until some time in Julv. If they are molested, they return at once to 184: PIONEER LIFE; OB, their old haunts. This disposition to fly in danger to their accustomed place, is always shown by them, whether in a wild or domesticated state. I knew a tame buck to disappear from its owner, and nothing was heard of it for some time. At length it returned one night, very weary, but with its bell on, just as when it went away. It had taken up its quarters at a farm fifteen miles distant, where it remained con- tented until attacked by dogs. From the last of June until September, deer are light and in good condition for running, and at this season they are not easily run down. When driven to the water by dogs at this time they will cross and run a long time on the opposite side. By the last of October they are very fat, taking immediately to the water when pursued, and do not cross it, but run either up or down a mile or two, so that the dogs lose their scent, and then leaving the water lie down at a short dis- tance, keeping a keen watch for their pursuers. I always found it desirable to have a man and dog at the water to watch for the deer, and with a good dog they seldom escaped. A deer will not mate with any other animal than one of its own species. If one is placed when young, in company with a calf, lamb, or any other animal, it will not, as might be expected, form an attachment for it. The bucks are very quarrelsome, and during the running season desperate conflicts often ensue between them, result- ing sometimes in the death of both the belligerents. I have often found two of them lying dead, at the season I have mentioned, each bearing fatal marks THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 185 of the other's antlers. I once found one lying in the last gasp, his antlers interlocked with those of ano- ther, already dead. A neighbor once found two of them fighting with their antlers locked, and a doe standing near. He first shot the doe and then both the bucks CHAPTER XYII. lU-TtEE AND HABITS OF THE PANTHEB, WOLF AND FOX The jaguar, American panther, or as it is usually corrupted by hunters, " painter " — is* one of the most formidable animals encountered in the forests of this continent. It belongs to the cat tribe, and in its manner of springing upon its prey, as well as in many other particulars, it resembles the domestic cat. Its color is the same as the deer, changing in May with its new coat to a red, which changes again to a bluish color in October. They subsist entirely upon animal food, their usual prey being deer and rabbits. About the first of January, is called the running season, being the time when they mate. When the first snows of winter come, they seek the rocky hills and sheltered places, where they remain until driven forth by hunger, when they frequently visit the farmyards of the settlers, and help them- selves to any sheep or fowl that is within their reach. From an Isrealitish antipathy to pork, or some other cause, they never attack a hog, passing by good fat ones to reach other animals. A half-grown panther once entered a poultry-house at night, making such a disturbance that it was heard in the dwelling by two/emales, who were the only ones at home. They THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 187 supposed it was a fox, and taking a loaded gun and a torch, they went to the scene of the robbery. As they peered into the poultry-house, they perceived the animal, but still ignorant of its character they fired. The creature gave a yell that thrilled them with horror, and dropping their torch, they retreated to the house, but upon going out again, when all was silent, they found the panther lying dead. The females carefully conceal their young until they are half-grown, and so effectually do they accomplish it, that during a life time spent in the forest, I never found a nest with young in it. I once saw a panther thrust her head ont of a hole in an old hollow tree, but as I had no gun or axe, I went home, and in a few days returned and cut down the tree. I found in it a snug, warm nest, which she had occupied with her young but she had seen me, and removed them to other quarters. They seldom have more than one at a time, and never more than two, which they probably rear in holes near the tops of trees. The bear is the only animal that can cope with the panther. I once witnessed an encounter between a bear and a panther. From its superior agility the panther had the advantage at first, but when the bear became enraged by his wounds, he grasped his antagonist in his powerful paws, crushing and biting him to death almost instantly. Its gait is the same as that of a cat, treading stealthily along upon its toes, when moving at leisure, but when pursued or pursuing and it wishes to accelerate its pace, it moves in tremendous bounds, passing over the ground so 188 pioneer life; ok, rapidly as to defy pursuit, but it can maintain this movement but a short time, soon becoming fatigued and ascending a tree. When a panther is about to attack its prey, it creeps noiselessly along until within a few yards of it, when crouching flat, it pauses for a moment, with its eyes dilated, its tail quivering, and every muscle strained to its utmost tension, and then, with a sudden spring, it fastens upon its vic- tim, which it soon dispatches with its teeth and long powerful claws. From this peculiar manner of attack, it is sometimes enabled to conquer even an elk, and I have twice found elk, which had been killed by panthers ; one of them so recently that it was yet warm, and I killed the panther within a short distance. I have attacked a panther with eight dogs, for which it proved more than a match, driving them all from the field. Notwithstanding its ferocity and strength, it is little feared by hunters, and many of the marvelous tales of its attacks upon men are undoubtedly without foundation. It may be that in some instances they have been driven by ii unger to attack the human species, but with that instinctive consciousness of man's superiority which every animal exhibits, they will generally avoid him if possible. I have often watched by the carcases of deer, which had been killed and partly devoured by panthers, but none ever returned for the remain- der while I was near. They are less numerous than ~ny other animal ranging tbe same forests, and are solitary in their habits, never herding together like wolves and many other animals. THIETT YEARS A HUNTER. 189 The breeding season for wolves is in May, and at this season they are very shy, keeping themselves scattered through the woods, near the head waters of the streams, and seldom approaching the settlements. An old she-wolf will occasionally sally forth and pick up a sheep. They generally have three or four young at a time, and never more than seven. The young wolves are weaned in November, when they have attained their full size. When left by the old ones to shift for themselves, they become nearly famished, and are more troublesome to the settlements than at any other season. In February, which is the running season, they collect in large gangs, and do much mis- chief. They will attack a dog or any other animal that they can master. In 1822, while hunting on the Clarion Kiver, my dogs were attacked by wolves. One of them escaped, but the other, a valuable ani- mal, was torn in pieces. Frequent and sometimes fatal conflicts occur among themselves, and I have several times found dead ones which had been torn in pieces by their comrades. One night a gang of wolves passed my house, howling and screaming fearfully, and chasing a dog to the very door. The next morning I found one of their number lying dead, and another was found a few miles distant. In the latter part of May they begin to chase deer, and from that time until the following March, they subsist principally in this manner. In the winter, when the snow is deep, with a crust upon the surface, it is difficult for the deer to run, and great numbers of them are destroyed by wolves. In the spring, 100 PIONEER LIFE J CR, when it is more difficult for them to catch deer, they live upon rabbits, frogs, fish, etc. I have often seen them watching for fish in the Susquehannah. This river abounds in a kind of fish called the white suck- er, which lie in schools near the shore, sunning them- selves. The wolves come slyly to the water and seize them, sometimes taking two or three before the school escapes to deep water. When there was no bounty on wolves, we did not kill them, as they were useful in driving in deer. Wolves never attack cattle, colts, or hogs. They will intermix with dogs, and I once knew an old she-wolf to come into the setlement and entice away a number of dogs. The next summer she was seen with six half-wolf pups. The hunter shot her, aDd endeavored to capture the pups, but they made their escape. Two of them had spots on them exactly like one of the dogs. A slut belonging to an Indian living at the head of Kenzua Creek, had a litter of half-wolf pups. They were larger than common dogs, very sharp-scented, and would some times run deer. In stormy weather wolves take shelter under rocks and in hollow trees, which in the early spring, they also occupy at night. They generally come to their nests about sunset, and the hunter can shoot them as tbey arrive, by taking his station upon a tree or a scaffold, where they can- not scent him. Of foxes there are three kinds, the black, the silver grey, and the red. The black fox is the largest and most valuable. It is very sly and cunning, seldom approaching within three or four miles of the settle- THIRTY TEAKS A HUNTER. 191 ment, and when hotly pursued, will ascend any tree that leans. I have killed foxes which I supposed to be a cross between the black and the silver grey. The silver grey is also very shy, and in size it is between the black and the red. They subsist upon squirrels, rabbits, mice and fish. The red fox is smaller and more numerous than either of the other varieties. Though they are not as shy as the other kinds, they still possess so much cunning that it is very difficult to catch them. The most successful manner of taking them is to track them to their holes when there is a light snow on the ground, and set traps covered with straw, near the entrance. The snow falling soon covered both trap and straw, when the foxes, not suspecting danger, would step into the trap and be caught. Another manner of trapping them is to set a trap in a spring which they frequent, and attach the bait to sticks which are set in the water beyond the traps, and as the fox attempts to reach it, he steps into the trap. After his visits to the farmyards, the fox strikes a direct course for his hole, and a person by secreting himself near the path, can shoot them as they pass. They breed in the same manner as dogs, the litters numbering from three to six. They rear their young in holes which they dig in the ground. Young foxes are easily tamed, and will remain around the premises until the season for mating, when they generally go to the woods, and often remain. Red foxes generally stay near the settlements, preferring to live in white ash or chestnut woods, near water. I never saw a young 192 noNEEB life; or, black or silver-grey fox. So jealously do they avoid the haunts of man, that but little can be learned of - its habits. Indeed, the black fox is so shy as well 80 rare, that its very existence is by some regarded as fabulous, and it undoubtedly forms the foundation for many a mystic tale which is recounted in awe- struck tones by the settler's children as they gather of a winter evening around the blazing hearth of their log-cabin. I never succeeded in running one down with hounds in the manner that red ones are caught. One which I was once after with hounds ran up a leaning tree and I shot it, but this was the only case in which I was successful with dogs. CHAPTER XYIH. KATTLESNAKE8 AND THEIEHABITS Having always lived where rattle-snakes were numerous, I have taken particular notice of their habits. It was only after ten years observation that I learned the manner in which they travel when they emerge from their holes, how they propogate, and how they live at different seasons. It is a common error to suppose that a new rattle is added every year to their tail. I had two rattle-snakes which were taken when about three years old, and both had by some accident, lost all but one of their rattles. In three months three new rattles had grown upon one and one upon the other. Eattle-snakes shed their skin in June. It first begins to loosen at the tail, and gradually approaches the head, coming off entire a day or two after it is loose at the head. About this time they collect together in large num- bers, upon rocks near the water, I have seen forty of them sunning themselves upon one rock, and have heard others tell of seeing three hundred together. When they have remained at these places a few weeks, they mate and disperse. Many suppose that the black ones are males and the yellow are females. This is a mistake ; as I have seen two of each color 194: pioneer life; ob, together. The ones which I owned were both males, and one was yellow and the other black. The black one was bitten by the other, from the effect of which it died in about a week. In July they lay their eggs in the sand on the margin of rivers and creeks, a little above high water mark. The eggs are about as large as those of a quail, and are all deposited at one time. They always lay an odd number, seven, nine or eleven. After leaving their eggs in the sand for about four weeks they return and swallow them. I never saw this done, but I have watched the place where the eggs were deposited, and at the end of four weeks the eggs were gone, the sand disturbed and the track of the snake could be seen. An old man named James English has told me that he had seen them swallow their eggs, and at one time about the middle of September, he saw a number of small snakes issue from the mouth of the old one, and as she moved on, they followed. I cannot vouch for the truth of this as I never witnessed any thing of the kind, but have killed snakes in September, with live young in them. In my opinion the snakes swallow the eggs when they are about to hatch, in order to preserve the young until they attain some size. From the middle of June to the middle of August, the male and female are never far apart. The female takes the lead, and the male follows within a short distance. If the female is killed at this season, her mate will always bo found near her within three days. A person of my acquaintance killed a female snake TIIJBTY YEAK9 A HUNTER. 195 which ho laid upon the limb of a small tree, eight feet from the ground. In a short time its mate crawled up to the limb and remained by its side fur three days. After the middle of August they dis- perse and retire to their holes. I do not think, as many do, that they live together in dens, during the winter, but that each one finds quarters for itself, where it remains singly, until spring. While dig- ging for a mill-pit in January, I found a snake two feet below the surface. It appeared to be frozen, but upon taking it near the fire it soon revived. They have been found under rocks and in other places, not more than a foot from the surface. They are always found lying perfectly straight, and as it is not probable that they emerge tail first from their holes, they must dig another hole to come out of. The rattle-snake moves very slowly, sometimes con suniing a month in going a mile or two to the water. They sometimes lie upon the surface of the water and float some distance. Wben in the water they become bloated, but soon recover their natural size, after leaving the water. Besides rattlesnakes, the country east of the Allegany mountains was infested by copperheads, blowing vipers, black-snakes, racers and hoop, or horn-snakes. The copperheads were not as numerous as the rattle-snakes, but are much more venomous and spiteful, striking at every thing that comes within their reach. The blowing viper is so named from its emitting a hissing like that pro- duced by the blowing of a goose. It is larger than tho. orvouerhead, but not as venomous, being more so 196 however, than the rattle-snake. The black -snakes were very numerous, and so many are still found in all the northern States that every one living there is familiar with their appearance. They are harmless, but very voracious, using their powers of fascination to secure birds, squirrels and other small animals, which they afterward devour. The racer is very long and slim, sometimes growing to the length of eleven feet, while its diameter does not exceed an inch. Their color is black, with the exception of white rings around the neck. They glide over the ground with their heads elevated about eighteen inches, as rapidly as a dog can run. I was at one time while ploughing, very much alarmed by one of these snakes. I heard a hissing, but passed on without paying much regard to it. When I again came around to the place, it was repeated, but I passed on as before. When I approached the spot the third time my curiosity was excited, and I resolved to ascertain the source of the hissing. When I was near the spot from which it seemed to proceed my attention was called for a moment to my team, and when I again turned my head, I was in contact with a racer, eleven feet in length, stand- ing nearly erect, and darting his forked tongue, not more more than a foot from my head. I sprang back with a scream which startled one of the horses, and plunging forward, it threw the other, broke loose, and ran to the house. Eecovering myself, I advanced toward the snake, when it settled down, and retreated to the hollow in which it was first THIRTY TEAKS JL HUHTEB. 197 concealed. I halted at a little distance, when it again raised its head erect, and stood eyeing me. As I turned to run, the snake followed me, but retreated when I advanced toward it. In this man- ner we chased each other alternately across the field three times, when I picked up a club and killed it. The hoop-snake, or horn-snake is very rare. It is about five feet long, aud an inch and a quarter in thickness. It is similar in color to a yellow rattle- snake, but the light spots are less dingy. Its tail terminates in a black horn, four or five inches in length, and very sharp at the point. When preparing to make an attack, it bends itself into a circular form, and rolls over the ground like a hoop, striking its spike with graat force into the object of its attack. So deadly is the venom contained in this spike or horn, that it is fatal even to trees. In one instance with which I was cognizant, one of these snakes rolled at a man, who avoided it, by stepping to one side, and the snake, being under such velocity that iJt could not turn, struck its horn into an elm tree with such force that it could not extricate it. The suake died, hanging there, in two weeks, and the tree was lifeless at the end of a month, Notwith- standing the deadly nature of a rattlesnake's bite, they are easily destroyed by dogs which have been taught how to attack them. The dog seizes it by the middle, and with a few vigorous shakes scatters it in fragments. If the dog should be bitten, it immedi- ately digs a hole in the ground, in which it lies until the swelling disappears. I have always found this *17 198 PIONEER LIFE J OB, simple remedy the best one which can be resorted to for the bite of a rattle-snake. A young man of my acquaintance was once bitten, and I immediately dug a hole in the ground, eighteen inches deep, into which the leg was placed and covered with earth. At first he experienced no pain, but in a short time it became so severe that I was compelled to hold him down, but in three hours he fell asleep. After sleeping two hours he awoke, and the leg was entirely free from pain. Upon removing it from the earth, it was very white, and the poison was all drawn out. Another remedy is a plant called rattle- snake-weed or ox-weed. It is found upon low land, growing three or four feet high, with a slender stem, and limbs like those of the sun-flower. Its blossoms also resemble the sun-flower in form, but- are much smaller. The juice is pressed from the leaves, and applied to the wound, as well as administered inter- nally. In the year 1804, a man named John English was bitten by a rattle-snake while harvesting. He was struck in the large vein of the ankle, and in fifteen minutes the effects of the bite were visible in every part of his body and face. We carried him to the house, and as soon as possible obtained the weed, all of which required about half an hour. At this time his jaws were set so firmly that we were compelled to pry them open to administer the juice. He revived immediately, and we made a decoction of the weed, which we continued to give him. In four days he was able to sit up, but it was some time before he entirely recovered. A poultice of red THIRTY YEABS A HUNTEB. 199 onions, salt and gunpowder, applied to the wound, and renewed frequently, is also an effectual remedy. Before I was twenty-six years of age I had seen thousands of rattle-snakes, but had never witnessed an exhibition of the powers of fascination which they are said to possess, and was therefore incredu- lous upon that point. A man in my employ told me that he had seen it, but I could not be convinced until I had occular evidence. One morning in August, about the period I have mentioned, I saw a rattle-snake upon the ground, with its keen eyes fixed upon a rat, which was about eighteen inches distant, and advancing slowly toward the snake. In a few minutes it had approached close to the snake, and just as the latter was about to seize it, I struck the rat lifeless with a stick which I held in my hand. The snake instantly coiled himself and prepared to strike at me, when I held out the stick, and he bit it with more venom than I ever saw ex- hibited. He drove his fangs in'with such force that I could feel the jar of the stick in my hand. A blow from the stick immediately placed him where he would never charm another rat. At another time I saw a rattle-snake charming a large black squirrel. As soon as the animal came within reach, the snake seized it, but the squirrel, after dragging it about twice its length, escaped. I have also seen black- snakes climb trees and charm birds. I have heard many say that snakes of different kinds will mate together, but from many experiments which I have made I am convinced that this is an error. I once 200 PIONEER LITE ', CK, saw a rattle-snake lying upon a rock beside the water, and finding a water-snake at a short distance, I laid it upon the rock, near the other. It instantly fled from the rattle-snake, and continued to, as often as I placed them near each other. At another time I placed a black-snake near a rattle-snake, and at first the latter took no notice of the other, which exhibited the greatest terror, but upon placing them together again, the rattle-snake flew at it and would have bitten it, had it not been too nimble, and eluded the stroke. The rage of the one and terror of the other increased, as I continued to place them near each other. When a rattle snake and a blowing- vipea were brought together, both ran, each seem- ing to have an instinctive dread of the other. Find- ing a copperhead and a blowing-viper at the same time, I brought them together, when the viper beat a retreat, but the copperhead made no attempt to bite it. The last experiment I made was to place together a water-snake and an eel. Contrary to what might have been expected, the snake ran from the eel. These experiments convinced me that there is no affinity between snakes of different kinds, but that those which are less venomous are kept in terror by those which are more so. 1 have generally found snakes very numerous south of the New York State line, between the Tioga river and Lake Erie. They ^ere always very numerous east of the Allegany mountains, but the state of New York was never as badly infested with them as Pennsylvania. I have endeavored, in a former chapter, to give some idea THIKTY YEARS A HUNTER. 201 of their numbers in the country lying upon Tine Creek. West of there, upon the Sinemahoning it was little better in this respect, but from there to the Allegany river, the country was clear of them. They were very numerous on both sides of this river, but were not as troublesome north of the State line aa they were nearer its mouth. CHAPTER XIX DISTINGUISHED LUMBERMEN, ETC. Lumber is the great staple of trade in this section of country, and among those most prominent in the business, none stand higher than Guy 0. Irvin. He has been justly called the Napoleon of the lumber business. His name, person and character are known in every large town from Olean to New Or- leans. Coming into the section at an early day with little capital save a vigorous and comprehensive mind and an untiring spirit of enterprise, he has amassed a large fortune, having owned more pine timber lands and sawmills than any other individual upon the Allegany. When the business was driven to its extent in 1836 — 38, he frequently sent to market twenty million feet of lumber in a single season, and both shores for a mile above Pittsburgh are some- times lined with his rafts, waiting a rise of the water. I have been acquainted with him from childhood, and it is in the hope that young men will follow the example thus held up to them, that I record hia character and career. In his business operations he never loses sight of the rights or welfare of the laboring classes. 1 never knew him, upon any pre- text, to pay those running his lumber less than was THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. agreed upon, but] on the contrary he has often made np, out of his own purse, for the mishaps of those in his employ. Upon one occasion he advanced seven hundred dollars more than had been agreed upon for running two million feet of boards to Louisville. He never hoards his money, but keeps it constantly in circulation, building mills, sawing and buying lum- ber and running it from the head waters of the Alle- gany to points on the Ohio and to New Orleans. He built a flouring mill on the Connewango, seven miles from Warren. At the same' place he also built a gang sawmill, several single sawmills, and a railroad for conveying his timber, together with the mansion where he resides, which is the most elegant and com- modious residence in the county. Besides these, the aggregate cost of which could not have been less than thirty thousand dollars, he has built a flouring mill at Kennedyville, costing four thousand dollars, and two double sawmills nine miles below Olean. He was also a partner with Henry Saxton, in build- ing on the Indian Reservation a mill costing between eight and ten thousand dollars, and a mill above the State line, on the Allegany river, which cost some ten thousand dollars. When his contracts have ex- pired, the money is always ready, and he has often advanced it before, when he thought the work was progressing properly. I was once present at Louis- ville when he settled with his men for running eighteen million feet of lumber, two millions of it having been rafted by me. I received a dollar and seventy-five cents per thousand, and some of thfl 204 ionekr life; or, others two dollars. There were also five or six mil- lions of shingles, for running which he paid thirty- one and a half cents per thousand. This large amount was not only paid in full, but some who had met with ill success and had still done their duty faithfully were paid more than had been agreed upon. I once made a contract to raft lumber for him, and three months before I commenced operations he asked me if I wished any advance of funds. I answered that I had done nothing yet, and could not expect any advance, but upon his repeating the offer I told him that if he was willing I would be glad to have him advance sufficient to purchase provisions while I was rafting. He handed me nearly two hundred dollars, which proved very acceptable. I saw him next at Bucktooth mills, where he came to see how I was progressing. He again offered to advance funds if I desired it. I told him I would like fifty dollars, as I wished to be prepared to pay off and discharge any hand that proved incompetent. He gave me two hundred and fifty dollars, asking me if that would be sufficient. I have run seven million feet of boards for him in three successive years, and while engaged I never wanted money without obtaining it. One season having met with bad luck, he presented me with a hundred dollars. The secret of his success I consider to be his punctuality in his business en- gagements ; always doing as he agreed, so that the most implicit reliance could be placed upon his word. I think he possesses more tact in selling his lumber readily and obtaining good prices than any other THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 205 lumberman I ever knew. His mansion is always open to every one, and his urbanity and affability is the same to rich and poor. No word of censure was ever breathed against him until the failure of the Lumberman's Bank at Warren, when for a short time reports injurious to his reputation were circulated, but he outlived them, and was almost the only one who paid his indebtedness to the Bank. Whenever a transaction terminates to his satisfaction he is always willing to share his good fortune with others, who have aided in bringing it about. At one time while I was interpreter for the Seneca chiefs, I acted in that capacity for them in negotiating with a num- ber of persons, one of whom was Mr. Irvin, for a lease of land on which to build mills. It required two days to complete the arrangements, during which time my whole efforts were exerted for the benefit of the Indians, but before going away, Mr. Irvin gave me twenty -five dollars in cash, and said that I had done so well for the Indians, I might have twenty- five thousand feet of boards at the Bucktooth Mills, worth at that time fifty dollars, saying that if I had not earned it then he was sure I would some other time. Mr. Irvin, in company with Edwin Sanderson and Mr. Clark of Vermont, are now erecting on Willow Creek, in McKean county, the most extensive sawmill in that section of country, to be driven by steam, in addition to two good mills they now have, driven by water power. They are the owners of about seven- teen thousand acres of excellent land, covered with l 18 206 pionkrr life; op pine, hemlock, maple, beech, chestnut and oak. They are also building a plank road four miles in length, from their mills to the river. They paid in cash fur their land, over seventy thousand dollars, and are paying cash for every thing they roquiro in building, thereby doing great good to tho inhabitants of the neighborhood — more than any other establishment on the Allegany. They have also built a number of dwelling-houses and barns. The steam mill is ex- pected to saw about thirty-five thousand feet of lum- ber per hour. They intend building this year a railroad through their land, which, with buildings to be erected, will furnish employment for a large number of persons, The lands of theso gentlemen Btill abound with bears and deer, furnishing fine ground for the hunter. Corydon, at the mouth of Willow Creek, is a flourishing village, chiefly owing to the enterprise of the gentlemen above named. Dr. William Irwin, who resides at the mouth of the Bnokenstraw creek, is considered the wealthiest man in Warren county. Ho owns a very large tract of fine land at the mouth of the creek, a valuable grist- mill, a largo double sawmill, a woolen factory, an iron foundry, the Cornplantor Hotel, a store and a largo tract of pine timber land, up the Brokenstraw, upon which are four or five stone dwellings. In addition to tho above, he is the owner of more than one hundred thousand acres of land in different parts of the country, on which aro many mills, Btores and houses. His wife was a most exemplary woman, devoting her whole life to deeds of benevolence. THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 207 Her active charity did not stop with feeding and clothing all the destitute within her reach, but she was mindful of their spiritual wants, and opened a Sabbath School in her own house, bringing in all in the vicinity. Among her other good deeds she built at a cost of four thousand dollars, a stone church for the Presbyterian congregation of which she was a member. Her earthly labors ended 6oon after its completion, the first sermon ever delivered in it being upon the occasion of her funeral, and her remains were the first laid in the adjoining gravej T ard. She was universally lamented, and will long live in the memory of those who knew her, as one of those upon whom the bestowal of wealth is a blessing to all within their inflner.ee. OHAPTEK XX. REMINISCENCES OF COKNPLAKTEK. Few names are more distinguished in the frontier history of Pennsylvania than that of Cornplanter. His Indian name was Ganiodienh, or handsome Lake. He was born at Conewaugus, on the Genesee River, being a half-breed, the son of a white man named John O'Bail, a trader from the Mohawk valley. In a letter written in later years to the Governor of Pennsylvania, he thus speaks of his early youth : "When I was a child I played with the butterfly, the grasshopper and the frogs ; and as I grew up I began to pay some attention and play with the In- dian boys in the neighborhood ; and they took notice of my skin being of a different color from theirs, and spoke about it. I inquired of my mother the cause, and she told me that my father was a resident of Albany. I still ate my victuals out of a bark dish. I grew up to be a young man, and married me a wife, and I had no kettle or gun. I then knew where my fattier . lived, and went to see him, and found he was a white man, and spoke the English language. He gave me victuals while I was at his house, but when I started to return home, he gave me no provisions to eat on the way. He gave me THIRTY YE4.E8 A HUNTER. 209 neither kettle nor gun. * * *" Little further is known of his early life, beyond the fact that he was allied with the French in the engagement against Braddock, in July, 1775. He was probably at that time about seventeen years old. During the Revolu- tion he was a war chief of high rank, in the full vigor of manhood, active, sagacious, eloquent and brave ; and he most probably participated in the principal engagements against the United States, during that war. He is supposed to have been pres- ent at the cruelties of Wyoming and Cherry Yalley, in which the Senecas took a prominent part. He was in the war-path with Brant during Gen. Sulli- van's campaign, in 1779, and in the following year under Brant and Sir John Johnson, he led the Sene- cas in sweeping through Schoharie Kill and the Mohawk. On this occasion he took his father pris- oner, but with such caution as to avoid an immediate recognition. After marching the old man ten or twelve miles, he stepped before him, faced about and addressed him in the following terms : "My name is John Q'Bail, commonly called Corn- planter. I am yt>ur son ! You are my father ! You are my prisoner, and subject to the rules of Indian warfare. But you shall not be harmed. You need not fear. I am a warrior ! Many are the scalps I have taken ! Many prisoners I have tortured to death ! I am your son. I was anxious to see you, and greet you in friendship. I went to your cabin and took you by force, but your life shall be spared T Indians love their friends and their kindred, an4 ♦18 210 PIONEER LIFE ; OB, treat them with kindness. If now you choose to follow the fortunes of your yellow son, and live with our people, I will cherish your old age with plenty of venison, and you shall live easy. But if it is your choice to return to your fields and live with your white children, I will send a party of my trusty young men to conduct you back in safety. I respect you, my father. Tou have been friendly to Indians, and they are your friends." The elder O'Bail preferred his white children and green fields to his yellow offspring and the wild woods, and chose to return. Notwithstanding his bitter hostility while the war continued, Cornplanter became the fast friend of the United States, when once the hatchet was buried. His sagacious intellect comprehended at a glance the growing power of the States, and the abandonment with which Great Britain had requited the fidelity of the Senecas. He therefore threw all his influence at the treaties of Fort Stanwix and Fort Harmer in favor of peace ; and notwithstanding the vast concessions which he saw his people were necessitated to make, still, by his energy and pru- dence in the negotiation, he retained for them an ample and beautiful reservation. For the course which he pursued on those occasions, the state of Pennsylvania granted him the fine reservation upon which he resided, on the Allegany river. The Sen- ecas, however, were never well satisfied with his course in relation to these treaties ; and Red Jacket, more artful and eloquent than his elder rival, but less frank and honest, seized upon this circumstance THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 211 to promote his own popularity at the expense of Cornplanter. Having buried the hatchet, Corn- planter sought to make his talents useful to his people by conciliating the good will of the whites, and securing from further encroachment the little remnant of the national domain. On more than one occasion, when some reckless and bloodthirsty whites on the frontier had massacred unoffending Indians in cold blood, did Cornplanter interfere to restrain the vengeance of his people. During all the Indian wars from 1791 to 1794, which terminated with Wayne's treaty, Cornplanter pledged himself that the Senecas should remain friendly to the States. He often gave notice to the garrison at Fort Frank- lin of intended attacks from hostile parties and even hazarded his life on a mediatorial mission to the Western Tribes. He ever entertained a high respect and personal friendship for Washington, " the great counsellor of the thirteen fires," and often visited him during his presidency, on the business of his tribe. His speeches on these occasions exhibit both his talent in composition, and his adroitness in diplo- macy. Washington fully reciprocated his respect and friendship. They had fought against each other on the disastrous day of Braddock's defeat. Both were then young men. More than forty years after- ward, when Washington was about retiring from the presidency, Cornplanter made a special visit to Phil- adelphia to take an affectionate leave of the great benefactor of both the white and the red man. Af- ter peace was permanently established between tbe 212 pioneer life; ok, Indians and the United States, Cornplanter retired from public life, and devoted his labors to his own people. He deplored the evils of intemperance and exerted himself to suppress them. The benevolent efforts of missionaries among his tribe always re- ceived his encouragement, and at one time his own heart seemed to be softened by the words of truth ; vet he preserved in his later years many of the peculiar notions of the Indian faith. In the war of 1812 — 11, when the Senecas took up the hatchet in alliance with the United States, Cornplanter appears to have taken no active part ; but his son, Major Henry O'Bail and his intimate friend and neighbor, ILilftown, were conspicuous in several engagements on the Niagara frontier. Rev. Timothy Alden, President of Allegany College, who visited Corn- planter in 1816, thus describes the aged chief: " Jennesadaga, or Brant Town, Cornplanter's vil- lage, is on a handsome piece of bottom land, and comprises about a dozen dwellings. It was grateful to notice the agricultural habits of the place, and the -numerous enclosures of buckwheat, corn and oats. We also saw a number of oxen, cows and horses, and many logs designed for the sawmill and the Pittsburg market. In the year 1815, the Western Missionary Society established a school in the village under Mr. Samuel Oldham. Cornplanter, as soon -* apprised of our arrival, came over to see us, and took charge of our horses. Though having many around him to obey his commands, yet in the an- cient patriarchal style, he chose to serve us himself, THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 213 and actually went into the field, cut the oats, and fed our beasts. He appears to be about sixty-eight years of age, five feet ten inches in height His countenance is strongly marked with intelligence and reflection. Contrary to the aboriginal custom, his chin is covered with a beard three or four inches in length. His house is of princely dimensions, compared with most Indian huts, and has a piazza fin front. He is owner of thirteen hundred acres of, excellent land, six hundred of which encircle the ground plot of his little town. He receives an annual stipend from the United States, of two hundred and fifty dollars. Cornplanter's brother, lately deceased, called the Prophet, was known by the high-sounding name of Goskakewanna Konnediu, or Large Beauti- ful Lake. Kinjuquade, the name of another chief, signified " The Place of Many Fishes," hence, prob- ably, the name of Kenzua. In 1821 — 22, the Commissioners *of Warren coun- ty assumed the right to tax the private property of Corn planter, and proceeded to enforce its collection. The old chief resisted, conceiving it not only unlaw- ful, but a personal indignity. The sheriff again appeared with a small posse of armed men. Corn- planter took the deputation to a room around which were ranged about a hundred rifles, and with the sentious brevity of an Indian, intimated that for each rifle a warrior would appear at his call. The sheriff and his men withdrew, determined to call out the militia. Several prudent citizens, fearing a san- guinary collision, sent for the old chief in a friendly 214 pioneer life; or, way, to come to Warren and compromise the matter. He came, and after some persuasion, gave Lis note for the tax, amounting to $43,79. He addressed, however, a remonstrance to the Governor of Penn- sylvania, soliciting a return of his money, and an exemption from such demands against land which the state itself had presented to him. The Legisla- ture annulled the tax and sent two Commissioners to explain the matter to him. ne met them at the court-house in "Warren, on which occasion he deliv- ered the following speech, eminently characteristic of himself and his race : "Brothers : Yesterday was appointed for us all to meet here. The talk which the Governor sent us pleased us very much. I think that the Great Spirit is very much pleased, that the white people have been induced so to assist the Indians as they have done, and that he is pleased also to see the great men of this state and of the United States so friendly to us. We are much pleased with what has been done." * * "The Great Spirit first made the world, and next the flying animals, and found all things good and prosperous. He is immortal and everlasting. After finishing the flying animals he came down on earth and there stood. Then he made different kinds of trees, and weeds of all sorts, and people of every kind. He made the spring and other seasons, and the weather suitable for planting. These he did make. But stills to make whiskey to be given to the Indians he did not make. The Great Spirit bids me tell the white people not to give the THIRTY YEARS A HUNTEB. 215 Indians this kind of liquor. When the Great Spirit had made the earth and its animals, he went into the great lakes, where he hreathed as easily as any where else, and then made all the different kinds of fish. The Great Spirit looked back on all that he had made. The different kinds he made to be separate, not to mix with and disturb each other. But the white people have broken his command, by mixing their color with the Indians. The Indians have done better by not doing so. The Great Spirit wishes that all wars and fightings would cease. He next told us that there were three things for our people to attend to : first, we ought to take care of our wives and children ; secondly, the white people ought to attend to their farms and cattle ; thirdly, the Great Spirit has given the bears and deer to the Indians. He is the cause of all things that exist, and it is verv wicked to go against his will. The Great Spirit wishes me to inform the people that thoy should quit drinking intoxicating drink, as being the cause of disease and death. He told us never to sell any more of our lands, for he never sold lands to any one. Some of us now keep the seventh day, but I wish to quit it, for the Great Spirit made it for others but not for the Indians, who ought every day to attend to their business. He has ordered me to quit intoxicating drink, and not to lust after any woman but my own, and informs me that by so doing I should live the longer. He has made known to me that it is very wicked to tell lies. Let no one suppose this I have said is not true." * * "I have 216 pioneer life; ok, now to thank the Governor for what he has done. I have informed him what the Great Spirit has or- dered me to cease from, and I wish the Governor to inform others of what I have communicated. This is all I have at present to say." The old chief appears after this again to have fallen into seclusion, taking no part even in the poli- tics of his people. He died at his residence, on the 7th of March, 1836, at the age of one hundred and upward. " Whether at the time of his death he expected to go to the fair hunting grounds of his own people, or to the heaven of the Christian, is not known." " Notwithstanding his professional Chris- tianity, Cornplanter was very superstitious. c Not long since,' says Mr. Foote, of Chautauque county, 4 he said the Good Spirit had told him not to have any thing to do with the white people, or even to preserve any mementoes or relics that had been given him, from time to time, by the pale-faces — whereupon, among other things, he burnt up his belt, and broke his elegant sword." In reference to the personal appearance of Cornplanter at the close of his life, a writer in the Democratic Arch, (Yenango county,) says : " I once saw the aged and venerable chief and had an interesting interview with him, about a year and a half before his death. I thought of many things, when seated near him, beneath the wide-spreading shade of an old sycamore, on the banks of the Allegany — many things to ask him — the scenes of the Revolution, the generals that fought its battles and conquered the Indians, his THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 217 tribe, the Six Nations, and himself. He was consti- tutionally sedate, was never observed to smile, much less to indulge in the ' luxury of a laugh.' When I saw him he estimated his age to be over one hun- dred years. I think one hundred and three was about his reckoning of it. This would make him near one hundred and five years old at the time of his decease. His person was much stooped, and his stature was far short of what it had once been — not being over five feet six inches, at the time I speak of. Mr. John Strathers of Ohio, told me some years since, that he had seen him nearly fifty years ago, and at that period he was about his own height, viz : six feet one inch. Time and hardship had made dreadful impressions upon that ancient form. The chest was sunken and his shoulders were drawn for- ward, making the upper part of his body resemble a trough. His feet, too, (for he had take off his moc- casins,) were deformed and haggard by injury. I would say that most of the fingers on one hand were useless; the sinews had been severed by a blow of the tomahawk or scalping knife. How I longed to ask him what scene of blood and strife had thus stamped the enduring evidence of its existence upon his person ! But to have done so would, in all proba- bility, have put an end to all further conversation on any subject- — the information desired would cer- tainly not have been obtained — and I had to forego my curiosity. He had but one eye, and even the socket of the lost organ was hidden by the overhang- ing brow resting upon the high cheek bone. His 19 218 PIONEER LIFE J CR, remaining eye was of the brightest and blackest hue. Never have I seen one, in young or old, that equalled it in brilliancy. Perhaps it had borrowed luster from the eternal darkness of its neighboring orbit. His ears had been dressed in the Indian mode : all but the outside ring had been cut away. On one ear this ring had been torn asunder near the top, and hung down his neck like a useless rag. He had a full head of hair, white as the driven snow, which covered a head of ample dimensions and admirable shape. His face was swarthy ; but this may be ac- counted for from the fact that he was but half Indian. He told me that he had been at Franklin more than eighty years before the period of our conversation, on his passage down the Mississippi, with the warriors of his tribe, on some expedition against the Creeks or Osages. He had long been a man of peace, and I believe his great characteristics were humanity and truth. It is said that Brant and Corn- planter were never friends after the massacre of Cherry Valley. Some have alleged, because the Wyoming massacre was perpetrated by the Senecas, that Cornplanter was there. Of the justice of this suspicion there are many reasons for doubt. It is certain that he was not the chief of the Senecas at this time ; the name of the chief in that expedition was Ge-en-quah-toh, or He-goes-in-the-Smoke. As he stood before me — the aged chief in ruins — how forcibly was I struck with the truth of the beautiful figure of the old aboriginal chieftain, who, in descri- bing himself, said he was 'like an aged hemlock, THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 219 dead at the top, and whose brandies alone were green.' After more than a hundred years of most varied life — of strife — of danger — of peace — he at last slumbers in deep repose on the banks of his own beloved Allegany." — [From Sherman Day's Historical Collections of the State of Pennsylvania. CHAPTER^XXI tNT)IAN ELOQrENCE. Their natural eloquence is acknowledged by every person who has heard their orators speak. In order > therefore, that the reader may be convinced of this, I shall offer a few specimens, the authors of some of which were personal acquaintances of my own : SPEECH OF CORNPLANTER. The Speech of Cornplanter to President Washington, at Philadelphia, in the jear 1790. Father : the voice of the Seneca nation speaks to you, the great counsellor, in whose heart the wise men of all the thirteen fires have placed their wis- dom. It may be very small in your ears, and we therefore entreat you to hearken with attention ; for we are able to speak of things which to us are very great. When your army entered the country of the Six Nations, we called you the Town Destoyer ; to this day, when this name is heard, our women look be- hind and turn pale, and our children cling close to the necks of their mothers. THIBTY TEAKS A HUNTEK. 221 When our chiefs returned from Fort Stanwix and laid before our council what had been done there, our nation was surprised to hear how great a country you had compelled them to give up to you, without payiDg to us any thing for it ; every one said that your hearts were yet swelled with resentment against us for what had happened during the war, but that one day you would consider it with more kindness. We asked each other, What have we done to de- serve such severe chastisement? Father: when you kindled your thirteen fires sep- arately, the wise men assembled at them told us you were all brothers ; the children of one great father, who regarded the red people as his children. They called us brothers, and invited us to his protection. They told us that he resided beyond the great water, where the sun first rises ; and that he was a king whose power no people could resist, and that his goodness was as bright as the sun. What they said went to our hearts ; we accepted the invitation and promised to obey him. What the Seneca nation promise they faithfully perform. When you refused obedience to that king, he commanded us to assist his beloved men in making you sober. In obeying him we did no more than yourselves had led us to promise. We were deceived ; but your people teaching us to confide in that] king, had helped to deceive us ; and we now appeal to your heart. Is all the blame ours ? 222 PIONEER LIFE ; OK, Father : when we saw that we had been deceived, and heard the invitation which you gave us to draw near to the fire you had kindled, and talk with you concerning peace, we made haste toward it : you told us you could crush us to nothing ; and you de- manded from us a great country, as the price of that peace which you had offered to us, as if our want of strength had destroyed our rights. Our chiefs had felt your power and were unable to contend against you, and they therefore gave up that country. What they agreed has bound our nation, but your anger against us must by this time be cooled, and although our strength has not increased, nor your power be- come less, we ask you to consider calmly — Were the terms dictated to us by your commissioners rea- sonable and just? SPEECH OF RED JACKET TO A MISSIONARY. Friend and brother, it was the will of the Great Spirit that we should meet together this day. He orders all things, and he has given us a fine day for our council. He has taken his garment from the sun and caused it to shine with brightness on us. Our eyes are opened, that we see clearly : our ears unstopped, that we have been able to hear distinctly the words that you have spoken ; for all these favors we thank the Great Spirit and him only. Brother, this council fire was kindled by you ; it THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 223 was at your request that we came together at this time ; we have listened with attention to what you have said ; you requested us to speak our minds freely ; this gives us great joy, for we now consider that we stand upright before you, and can speak what we think, all have heard your voice, and all speak to you- as one man ; our minds are agreed. Brother, you say you want an answer to your talk before you leave this place. It is right you should have one, as you are a great distance from home, and we do not wish to detain you ; but we will h'rst look back a little and tell you what our fathers have told us, and what we have heard from the white people. Brother, listen to what we say. There was a time when our forefathers owned this great land. Their seats extended from the rising to the setting sun. The Great Spirit had made it for the use of the Indians. He had created the buffalo, the deer, and other animals for food. He had made the bear and the beaver, and their skins served us for clothing. He had scattered them over the country, and taught us how to take them. He had caused the earth to produce corn for bread, and this he had done for his red children, because he loved them. If we had any disputes about hunting grounds, they were gen- erally settled without the shedding of much blood ; but an evil day came upon us ; your forefathers crossed the great waters and landed on this island. Their numbers were small ; they found tribes, and not enemies ; they told us they had fled from their 224: pioneer life; ok, own country, for fear of wicked men, and come here to enjoy their religions. They asked for a small seat ; we took pity on them granted their request, and they sat down among us : we gave them corn and meat ; they gave us poison in return. The white people had now found our country, tidings were carried back, and more came among us, yet we did not fear them, we took them to be friends; they called us brothers ; we believed them, and gave them a larger seat. At length their numbers had greatly increased ; they wanted more land ; they wanted our country. Our eyes were opened, and our minds became uneasy. Wars took place; In- dians were hired to fight against Indians; and many of our people were destroyed. They also brought strong liquors among us ; it was strong and powerful, and has slain thousands. " Brother, our seats were once large, and yours were very small ; you have now become a great people, and we have scarcely a place left to spread our blankets ; you have got our country, but are not satisfied ; you want to force your religion upon us. Brother, continue to listen. You say that you are sent to instruct us how to worship the Great Spirit agreeably to his mind, and if we do not take hold of the religion you white people teach, we shall be unhappy hereafter ; you say that you are right, and we are lost; how do we know this to be true? We understand that your religion is written in a book; if it was intended for us as well as you, why has not the Great Spirit given it to us, and not only to us, THIRTY YEARS A HUNTER. 2^5 bnt why did he not give to our forefathers the know- ledge of that book, with the means of understanding it rightly ? We only know what you tell us about it; how shall we know what to believe, being so often deceived by the white people ? Brother, you say there is but one way to worship and serve the Great Spirit; if there is but one reli- gion, why do you white people differ so much about it ? Why not agree, as you can all read the book ? Brother, we do not understand these thing ; we are told that your religion was given to your fore- fathers, and has been handed down from father to son. We also have a religion which was given to our forefathers, and has been handed down to us, their children. We worship that way. It teaches us to be thankful for all the favors we receive ; to love each other, and to be united. We never quar- rel about our religioD. Brother, the Great Spirit has made us all ; but he has made a great difference between his white and his red children ; he has given us a different com- plexion and different customs ; to you he has given the arts, to these he has not opened our eyes ; we know these things to be true. Since he has made so great a difference between us in other things, why may we not conclude that he has given us a different religion according to our understanding ? The Great Spirit does right ; he knows what is best for his chil- dren ; we are satisfied. Brother, we do not wish to destroy your religion, or take it from you; we only want to enjoy our own. 226 PIONEER LIFE ; OK, Brother, you say that you have not come to get our land o.- our m ney, but to enlighten our minds. I will now tell you that 1 have been at your meet- ings, and saw you collecting money from the meet- ing. I cannot tell what this money was intended for, but suppose it was for your minister, and if we should conform to your way of thinking, perhaps you may want some from us. Brother, we have been told that you have been preaching to white people in this place ; these people are our neighbors ; we are acquainted with them ; we will wait awhile and see what effect it has upon them. SPEECH OF RED JACKET. "What ! do you denounce us as fools and bigoL^ because we still continue to believe that which you sedulously inculcated two centuries ago? Your divines have thundered this doctrine from the pulpit, your judges have pronounced it from the bench, your courts of justice have sanctioned it with the formalities of law, and you would now punish our unfortunate brother (he that killed the woman) for xdherance to the superstitions of his fathers! Go to Salem! Look at the records of your government, and you will find hundreds executed for the very crime which has called forth the sentence of con- demnation upon this woman, and drawn down the arm of vengeance upon her. What have your bro~ THTETY YEAES A HUNTER. 227 thers done more than the rulers of your people have done? and what crime has this man committed by- executing, in a summary way, the laws of his nation and the injunctions of his God ? SPEECH OF BLACK HAWK, WHEN HE SUEEENDEEED HIM- SELF TO THE AGENT AT PEAJEIE DU CHTEN. You have taken me prisoner with all my warriors. I am much grieved, for I expected, if I did not defeat 3 r ou, to hold out much longer, and give more trouble before I surrendered. I tried hard to bring you into ambush, but your last general, understands Indian fighting. I determined to rush on you, and fight you face to face ; I fought hard. But your guns were well aimed. The bullets flew like birds in the air, and whizzed by our ears like the wind through the trees in winter. My warriors fell around me; it began to look dismal. I saw my evil day at hand. The sun rose dim on us in the morning, and at night it sank in a dark cloud, and looked like a ball of fire. That was the last sun that shone on Black Hawk. His heart is dead, and no longer beats quick in his bosom. He is now a prisoner to the white man ; they will do with him as they wish. But he can stand torture and is not afraid of death. He is no coward. Black Hawk is an Indian. He has done nothing for which an Indian ought to be ashamed. He has fought for his countrymen, the souaws and PIONEER LIFE; OR, papooses, against white men, who came, year after year, to cheat them and take away their lands. You know the cause of our making war. It is known to all white men. They ought to be ashamed of it. The white men despise the Indians, and drive them from their homes. But the Indians are not deceitful. The white men speak bad of the Indian and look at him spitefully, But the Indian does not tell lies ; Indians do not steal. An Indian who is as bad as the white men could not live in our nation ; he would be put to death, and eaten up by wolves. The white men are bad school- masters ; they carry false looks and deal in false actions ; they smile in the face of the poor Indian to cheat him ; they shake them by the hand to gain their confidence, to make them drunk, to deceive them, to ruin their wives. We told them to let us alone, and keep away from us ; but they followed on, and beset our paths, and they coiled themselves among us, like the snake. They poisoned us by their touch. We are not safe. We lived in danger. We were becoming like them, hypocrites and liars, adul- terers and lazy drones, all talkers and no workers. We looked up to the Great Spirit. We went to our father. We were encouraged. His great council gave us fair words and big promises, but we got no satisfaction, things were growing worse. There were no deer in the forest. The oppossum and beaver were fled ; the springs were drying up, and our squaws and pappooses without food to keep them from starving ; we called a great council, and kindled a large fire. THIRTY TEAES A HtJNTEB. 290 The spirit of our fathers arose and spoke to us to avenge our wrongs or die. We all spoke before the council fire. It was warm and pleasant. We set up the war whoop, and dug np the tomahawk ; our knives were ready, and the heart of Black Hawk swelled high in his bosom, when he led his warriors to battle. He is satisfied. He will go to the world of spirits contented. He has done his duty. His father will meet him there, and commend him. Black Hawk is a true Indian, and disdains to cry like a woman. He feels for his wife, his children and friends. But he does not care for himself. He cares for the nation and the Indians. They will suf- fer. He laments their fate. The white men do not scalp the head ; but they do worse — they poison the heart; it is not pure with them. His countrymen will not be scalped, but they will, in a few years, become like the white men, so that you cannot trust them, and there must be, as in the white settlements, nearly as many officers as men, to take care of them and keep them in order. Farewell, my nation ! Black Hawk tried to 8a v* you, and avenge your wrongs. He drank the blood of some of the whites. He has been taken prisoner, and his plans are stopped. He can do no more. He is near his end. His sun is setting, and will rise no more. Farewell to Black Hawk. ?0 230 pioneer life; or, red jacket and the wyandot claim to supremacy. At a great council of the western tribes, assembled near Detroit, prior to the late war, the celebrated Seneca orator, Red Jacket, was present, when the right of the Wyandots to light the council fire, was brought up. This claim he strenuously -resisted, and administered a rebuke to this nation in the following terms : " Have ^the Quatoghies forgotten themselves ? Or do they suppose we have forgotten them? Who gave you the right in the west or east, to light the general council fire? You must have fallen asleep, and dreamed that the Six Nations were dead I "Who permitted you to escape from the lower country? Had you any heart to speak for yourselves ? Remem- ber how you hung on by the bushes. You had not even a place to land on. You have not done p g for fear of the Konoshioni. High claim, indeed, for a tribe who had to run away from the Kadarakwa. " As for you, my nephews," he continued, turning to the Lenapes, or Delawares, u it is fit you should let another light your fire. Before Mic^uon came, we had put out your fire, and put water on it ; it would not burn. Could you hunt or plant without our leave ? Gould you sell a foot of land ? Did not the voice of the Long House cry c go ! ' and you went ? Had you any power at all ? Fit act, indeed, for you to give in to our wandering brothers — you, from whom we took the war-club and put on petticoats." THIRTY TEARS A HUNTER. 231 LITTER FROM REV. ASHER BLISS TO H. R. BCHOOLCRAFT. Cattaraugus Mission, Sept. 4th, 1845. Dear Sir : — Agreeably to your request, I forward you some facts in regard to the establishment and progress of the gospel among the natives of this reservation. The Cattaraugus Mission Church was organized July 8th, 1827, (which is a little more than eighteen years.) It consisted of Mr. William A. Thayer, the teacher, his wife and twelve native members. There have been additions to it from time to time, until the whole number who have held a connection with this church is one hundred and eighteen. Thirteen of these have been white per- sons, and most of them connected with the mission family. Of the one hundred and five native mem- bers, seven or eight have come by letter from other reservations, 60 that the number who have united on profession of faith is a little short of one hundred. Twenty-five of these have gone to their final account. Some have died in the triumphs of faith, and we humbly hope and trust that they are among the blessed, in the kingdom of our common Father. A number (as it was natural to expect from converts out of heathenish darkness) have apostatized from Christianity, and returned to their former courses. The proportion of these is not prabably more than one in ten. Between sixty and seventy are now con- nected with some of the mission churches. A few only have removed to Allegany, Tuscarora, while the remainder still live on this reservation. fioneee life.; OE, The effect of the gospel in promoting morality and ^civilization, may be learned in part from the fact that the public worship of God has been steadily main- tained ever since the organization of the church, with members ranging from fifty to one hundred, and sometimes one hundred and fifty and two hun- dred as regular hearers of the word. A Sabbath school has been sustained a considerable share of the time. Many copies of the Holy Scriptures, and the Kew Testament, together with tracts, Sabbath school books, temperance papers, and religious peri- odicals, having been circulated among the chil- dren and youth. Temperance societies have been patronized by nearly all the chiefs and leading men en the reservation. Pledges have been circulated and received the signatures of a large majority of the population, of all parties, on the Washingtonian plan. Day schools for teaching the English language have been kept in operation almost without interrup- tion for more than twenty years, under the patronage of the A. B. C. F. M. During the thirteen years that I have superintend- ed these schools, nearly thirty different persons have engaged for a longer or shorter time, as teachers. I?or the past year there have been four schools under the patronage of the American Board, and one under the Society of Friends. The whole number who have been instructed in the five schools is prob- ably not far from one hundred and twenty-five. The attendance of a part has been very irregular, some- THISTY YKABS A HUNTEB. times attending no school at all. Several of the earliest pnpils in the mission schools are now heads of families, well informed, industrious, frugal, tem- perate and religious, and in good circumstances. Some are interpreters, some teachers of schools, and others engaged in transacting the business of the nation. You can, sir, best judge of the influence of the gospel in promoting worldly prosperity, when you have fully completed the census which is now being taken. When you count up the framed houses, aad barns, the horses, cattle, sheep and 'hogs, the acres of improved land, with the wagons, buggies and sleighs, clocks and watches, and the various productions of agriculture, you can easily conceive the difference between the present, and thirty years ago. I suppose there was not then a framed build- ing of any description, and scarcely a log house, properly so called, no teams, no roads, no ploughed land, and but small patches of corn, beans and squashes. What an astonishing change ! As to the capacity of Indian children for improve- ment, my own impression is that there is no essen- tial difference between them and white children. The fact that Indian children usually make slow pro- gress in studying English books, can be accounted for in three ways : 1. They generally have little or no assistance from their parents at home. 2. They are irregular in their attendance on schools, for want of order and discipline on the part of parents. 3. Being ignorant of the English language, it is a r 234 PIONEER LIFE ; OR, long time before they comprehend fully the instruc- tion of their teachers. These circumstances operate to make the school room a very dull and uninteresting place to the teacher, and the reflex influence gives the scholar the same appearance. When they can once rise above these circumstances, and overcome these ob- stacles, they make good proficiency in their studies. Believing that these statements cover the ground of your inquiries, I subscribe myself, dear sir, Respectfully and truly yours, ASHER BLISS. LETTER FROM REV. WILLIM HALL TO H. R. SCHOOLCRAFT Allegany Mission, Sept. 8th, 1845. Dear Sir: — Your inquiries in relation to the state of religion, education, etc., among the Indians of this reservation, if I rightly understand them, are briefly answered as follows : Christianity Very much prospered here during the four years next preceding the past. The number of church members during that period was nearly tripled, and very encouraging additions were made to their knowledge and zeal. But the past year has been one of stupidity and drought. There has, however, been four additions from the Jndians made to the church, by profession of faith, and two whites. THIRTY YEARS A. HUNTER. 235 The present number of Indian members is about one hundred and fifteen. The number of whites is eight Seven of the Indian members are under censure. I have sustained three schools during the pa6t summer, in which about eighty Indian children have been more or less taught. One of these schools, whose whole number is only about thirty, gives an average attendance of nearly twenty-five. In this neighborhood the population is sufficiently compact for a farming community, and the younger parents are partially educated. In the other neighborhoods, the population is very sparse, and the parents very ignorant. The conse- quence is, that the daily attendance falls short of one half the whole number of scholars, and cannot be called regular at that. Many do not get to school earlier than half past eleven, and very few earlier than ten. and half-past ten. Those who attend regu- larly, evince a capacity to acquire knowledge, equal- ing the whites, and one of our schools will suffer nothing, in comparison with common country schools. I am, dear sir, Yours, &c. WILLIAM IIALL, 236 LETTER FROM REV. GILBERT ROCEWOOD TO HENRY B. SCHOOLCRAFT. Tuscarora Mission, August 1, 1845. Sir: — In the following communication yon can make use of such statements as you may deem pro- per. If all the statements should not be necessary for your official objects, yet they may be interesting to you as an individual. This mission was comn^enced about fifty years since, under the care of the " New York Missionary Society." It was transferred to the "United For- eign Mission Society," in 1821, and to the American Board of Com. for Foreign Missions," in 1826, The church was organized in 1805, with five persons. The whole number of native members who have united since its organization is o«e hun- dred and twenty -three. The present number of native members is fifty-three ; others five, total fifty- mght Between July 1st, 1844^and July 1st, 1845, there were only three admissions, two by profession, and one by letter. About one-third of the population attend meeting on the Sabbath. Their meeting house was built by themselves, with si little assistance from abroad. They have also a school house, the expense of which was nearly all defrayed by themselves. There is but one school among them, which is kept the year through, with the exception of the vacations. The teacher is appointed by the American Board. THIETY YFARfl A HUNTEB- 237 The number of scholars the past year, is not far from 50. I have been among these Indians now nearly eight years. I can see that there has been an advance, both in their moral and physical condition. It is within the memory of many now living among them, when drunkenness was almost uni- versal ; now, comparatively, few are intemperate. A majority of the chiefs, are decidedly temperance men, and exert a salutary influence. They have a temperance society, and hold frequent meetings. They utterly forbid the traffic in intoxicating drinks on their own soil. The marriage relation is being better understood by them, and more appreciated. More of the young men and women enter into the marriage relation, in the regular christian way, than a few years ago. Four couple have been regularly married the past year. Number of deaths, 8 ; an unusual number since I have been among them. There is besides the church, above referred to, a Baptist church, organized a few years since, the par- ticulars of which, I am unable to give. For any in- formation you may wish respecting it, I would refer you to James Cusick, their minister. On the whole, there is much to encourage the philanthropist and the christian in labors for the good and well being of the Indians here, although we meet with many obstacles and difficulties in tho way. tmmmmmmmmmtnmmmm They are becoming more and more industrious in $3$ pioneer life; or, their habits, as the appearance of their farms, and the amount of produce, and their personal appearance will testify. With these brief statements, I subscribe myself, Yours, truly, GILBERT KOCKWOOD. ®* ion . _ ■-- ^ ^ -: -; 5-5 - - C * • • < -i • jy o. * o N o