^^ 
 
 HARMON'S JOURNAL 
 
CLASSICS OF AMERICAN HISTORY 
 
 History of the Expedition Under the Command 
 OF Captains Lewis and Clark tg the Sources 
 OF the Missouri, Across the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, Down the Columbia River to the 
 Pacific in i 804—06. An unabridged reprint of 
 the 1 8 1 4 edition to which all the members of the 
 expedition contributed. With portraits and maps. 
 3 vols. 
 
 This is the only convenient, complete and inexpensive edition of the 
 most famous exploration in American history. 
 
 Voyages from Montreal through the Continent 
 OF North America to the Frozen and Pacific 
 Oceans in 1789 and 1793. With an account of 
 the Rise and State of the Fur Trade. By Alexander 
 Mackenzie. With portrait and map. 2 vols. 
 
 The History of the Five Indian Nations of Can- 
 ada which are Dependent on the Province of 
 New York, and are a Barrier Between the 
 English and the FrEx\ch in that Part of the 
 World. By Hon. Cadwallader Colden. With 
 portrait and map. 2 vols. 
 
 The Wild Northland. Being the Story of a Winter 
 Journey, with dog, across Northern North Amer- 
 ica. By Gen. Sir Wm. Francis Butler, K.C.B. 
 With portrait and route map. i vol. 
 
 A Journal of Voyages and Travels in the Inte- 
 rior OF North America. By Daniel Williams 
 Harmon. Portrait and map. i vol. (Just ready.) 
 
 In size the volumes are a synall i2rno., bound uni- 
 formly in decorated linen. Portraits in photogravure. 
 Pfice $jr.GO, net. per volume. 
 
 A. S. BARNES & COMPANY 
 
 PUBLISHERS, NEW YORK 
 
'• *>«*», t- „,y^«*«at«A' 
 
 IDANjEEIL. >V!lILiLIAI^llS MAl^lSHaDllf M S ©"o 
 
A JOURNAL of VOYAGES 
 and TRAVELS in the INTER- 
 IOR of NORTH AMERICA 
 
 Between the 47th and 58th Degrees of N. Lat., 
 
 extending from Montreal nearly to the 
 
 Pacific, a Distance of about 
 
 5,000 Miles 
 
 INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRINCIPAL 
 
 OCCURRENCES DURING A RESIDENCE 
 
 OF NINETEEN YEARS IN DIF- 
 
 FERENT PARTS OF . 
 
 THE COUNTRY 
 
 BY 
 
 DANIEL WILLIAMS HARMON 
 
 A PARTNER IN THE NORTHWEST COMPANY 
 
 WITH intr6d»:jctioj^ and map 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY 
 1903 
 
THP Ltef^ARYOF 
 
 00NQRE38, 
 
 CtA«3 '"^ XYfl No, 
 
 r ^ 7 r / 
 
 corV 8. 
 
 Copyj-ight 1903 
 By A. S. Barnes & Co. 
 
 November 12. 
 
 • •• 
 
 m % 
 
 • • • • 3 C t . 
 • • ( • 
 
 « I C « < r 
 
 A^^ 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The world is very considerably indebted to 
 various servants of the great North West Fur 
 Companies, not only for the valuable and 
 useful furs they have obtained for us, but for 
 the different kinds of wealth they have gar- 
 nered in the guise of accurate and scientific 
 knowledge regarding the wild inhabitants, 
 the fauna, flora, and the geographical con- 
 figuration of the immense wilderness in which 
 their lives for the most part have been spent. 
 The debt is none the less because many of 
 these men were obhged to undergo great 
 hardships in their business— cut off for years 
 from all civilized society, and compelled, if 
 human companionship must be had, to be 
 content with the company of the aboriginal 
 savages of the country. Some of these lonely 
 waifs occasionally varied the monotony of 
 their regular employment by studying the 
 strange land and its people and writing down 
 the results either for the benefit of friends in 
 the far-away home, or for a still wider constit- 
 uency, or from sheer lack of anything more 
 congenial to occupy their leisure hours. At 
 all events, whatever the motive might have 
 been, the literary world has been made the 
 
vi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 richer by a number of well written books 
 of great value, on account of the minute and 
 painstaking care they display in describing 
 the denizens of a hitherto unknown world. 
 The Indian and his country are displayed 
 before us; the languages, the folklore, the 
 habits, manners and customs of an alien peo- 
 ple have received patient attention; and all 
 this has been accomplished in the intervals 
 of long sledge and canoe journeys into the 
 pathless solitudes of the North West. 
 
 Among the books which had their origin in 
 some such way as this, the journal kept for 
 a number of years by Daniel W. Harmon of 
 the North West Fur Company ranks very 
 high. Harmon spent nineteen years of his 
 life in the service of the Company, eight 
 years of which were passed beyond the Kocky 
 Mountains, and between them and the Pacific 
 Ocean. When he first came among them the 
 Indians still wandered through the country in 
 their primitive simplicity, unconscious of the 
 existence of other human beings save them- 
 selves. He passed his life among these sav- 
 ages. He even took a wife, ad interim, from 
 one of the tribes and lived with her until he 
 forsook the country forever. He was there- 
 fore in a good position to study the people 
 from a very near standpoint. 
 
 Along with these valuable ethnographical 
 studies are interesting details respecting the 
 proceedings of the North West Company and 
 the geographical configuration of the several 
 
INTRODUCTION. yii 
 
 parts of America in which its establishments 
 are situated. Harmon held the position of a 
 partner in that Company, and was Superin- 
 tendent of all its affairs beyond the Rocky 
 Mountains. 
 
 The Journal was written from day to day 
 among the wild people and the scenes he 
 described. The account is a plain, unambi- 
 tious narrative and is, all things considered, 
 entitled to im.plicit credit for veracity. It is 
 only fair to state, however, that Field gives 
 some color to the suggestion that Mr. D. 
 Haskell, who revised and published the work, 
 introduced some religious reflections into it 
 not made by the Author. Certainly such pas- 
 sages look very strange in the same book 
 with Mr. Harmon's confession of his reasons 
 for accepting female companionship. This 
 confession is worth quoting here: "This 
 day," he writes, "a Canadian's daughter was 
 offered to me; and after mature considera- 
 tion concerning the step I ought to take, I 
 have finally concluded to accept of her, as it 
 is customary for all gentlemen who remain 
 for any length of time in this part of the 
 world to have a female companion, with 
 whom they can pass their time more socially 
 and agreeably, than to live a lonely life as 
 they must do if single. If we can live in 
 harmony together my intention now is to 
 keep her so long as I remain in this uncivil- 
 ized part of the world." 
 This was hardly the unselfish view of the 
 
viii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 marriage state, one would naturally con- 
 clude, and scarcely in harmony with Christian 
 precepts. The consequence of this remarkable 
 state of affairs was that the North West Fur 
 Company became responsible for the main- 
 tenance of hundreds of women and children 
 whose natural protectors had deserted them, 
 left the country and returned to civilized 
 society. Field, who was no mean authority, 
 also believed that the two subdivisions en- 
 titled, ''Account of the Indians Living East of 
 the Rocky Mountains," and ''Account of the 
 Indians Living West of the Rocky Mountains," 
 are written by another hand, although per- 
 haps dictated by Harmon. 
 
 A very valuable feature of the Journal is 
 the copious vocabulary of the Cree or Knist- 
 enaux Indians. 
 
 It is rather strange that very few biograph- 
 ical details are extant regarding an author 
 whose repute has been steadily growing for 
 so many years. He must still be judged 
 almost entirely by his book, of which, fortu- 
 nately for the author, the critics long ago 
 unanimously decided that the work had been 
 worthily performed and most of the facts 
 therein cited uncontrovertible. 
 
 ROBERT WAITE. 
 ' New York, January, 1903. 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 BY THE EDITOR. 
 
 TTAVING prepared the following work for 
 ^^ the press, I have a few things to say 
 respecting it, and the part in regard to it, 
 which I have performed. 
 
 The authour of these Voyages and Tr^^vels, 
 had no thought, while in the N. W. Country, 
 of mjaking publick his Journal. It was com- 
 menced and continued, partly for his own 
 amusement, and partly to gratify his friends, 
 who, he thought, would be pleased to be 
 informed, with some particularity, on his 
 return, how his time had been employed, 
 during his absence. When he returned to 
 civilized society, he found that curiosity was 
 awake, in regard to the state of the country 
 which he had visited ; and the repeated ques- 
 tions, relating to this subject, which he was 
 called upon to answer, together with the 
 suggestions of some persons, in whose judg- 
 ment he placed much confidence, that such a 
 publication might be useful, first determined 
 him to commit the following work to the 
 press. 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 Had he carried into the wilderness a greater 
 stock of general information, and expected, 
 on his return, to appear in this manner before 
 the publick, his inquiries would undoubtedly 
 have been more extensive, and the result of 
 them would be more satisfactory, to men of 
 science. Had literary men been in the habit 
 of traversing the regions which he has visited, 
 he would have left it to them, to give an 
 account of them to the publick. Having re- 
 mained nineteen years in the interiour of 
 North America, without visiting, during that 
 time, the civilized part of the world, and 
 having, many times, changed the place of his 
 residence, while there, he has had an oppor- 
 tunity for taking a wide survey of the coun- 
 try, and of its inhabitants; and if the infor- 
 mation which he has collected, be not equal 
 to his opportunities, it is such as no other 
 existing publication will fully afford. 
 
 McKenzie's Yoyages give some account of 
 a considerable part of the country which is 
 here described. His residence in it, however, 
 was much shorter than that of the authour 
 of this work, and his personal acquaintance 
 with the different parts of it, was much more 
 limited. It is not intended, by this remark 
 to detract from the reputation, which that 
 respectable traveller and his work, have de- 
 servedly gained. By his toilsome and dan- 
 gerous voyage to the North Sea, and by 
 leading the way, through the Eocky Moun- 
 tainS; to the Pacific Ocean, he has richly 
 
PREFACE. xi 
 
 merited the commendation which he has 
 received. By comparing the following work 
 with that of McKenzie, it will appear, that, 
 though the geographical details are less 
 minute, the country surveyed, if we except the 
 voyage to the North Sea, which is wholly 
 out of the sphere of this publication, is con- 
 siderably more extensive; and the informa- 
 tion, in regard to the inhabitants, is much 
 more particular. Considerable additions are 
 here made, to the existing stock of geo- 
 graphical information, particularly as it re- 
 spects the country beyond the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. The basis of the map, here given to 
 the publick, is that of Sir Alexander McKen- 
 zie, drawn by Arrowsmith. That map has 
 received many corrections, and to it many 
 important additions have been made, by the 
 authour of this work ; so that it is presumed 
 now to be the most correct map of the in- 
 teriour of North America, which has ever 
 been published. 
 
 Literary men have recently taken much 
 interest in comparing the different Indian 
 languages, spoken on this continent, with 
 each other, and with other languages, par- 
 ticularly with those anciently spoken on the 
 other continent. A very considerable vocab- 
 ulary of the one which is spoken, with a 
 little variation of dialect, through the long 
 tract of country, from a little back of Mon- 
 treal to the Rocky Mountains, and one less 
 extensive of the principal language spoken 
 
xii PREPACE. 
 
 beyond it, are here given. Sir Alexander 
 McKenzie has given a vocabulary of the first, 
 which will be found, on comparison, to be 
 somewhat different from that, which is con- 
 tained in this work. Two reasons may be 
 assigned for this. In the country about the 
 Athabasca Lake, where McKenzie principally 
 resided, the Cree or Knisteneux language is, 
 in some measure, a mixed dialect ; and it is 
 far less pure, than that which is spoken by 
 the inhabitants of the plains. The words, 
 also, are spelled by McKenzie, much accord- 
 ing to the French sound of the letters, which 
 is frequently calculated to mislead an English 
 reader. Thus, the name of God, or the Good 
 Spirit, which McKenzie spells Ki-jai-Manitou, 
 is here spelled Kitch-e-mon-e-too. The above 
 remark will account, in a great measure, for 
 this difference; and for that which will be 
 found, in the spelling of many other words. 
 This is the native language of the wife of 
 Mr. Harmon, (for so I may now call her, 
 as they have been regularly married) and 
 great pains have been taken to make this 
 vocabulary correct, by marking the nice 
 distinctions in the sound of the words, as 
 derived from her repeated pronunciation of 
 them. With this language he is, also, well 
 acquainted, since it has been daily spoken 
 in his family, and by himself, for many 
 years. 
 
 The education of the authour of this work 
 was not classical; and had it been more ex- 
 
PREFACE. xiii 
 
 tensive than it was, a residence for more 
 than half of his life, since he has arrived to 
 years of understanding, in a country where 
 the English language is rarely spoken, would 
 have poorly qualified him to give to this 
 publication, a suitable English dress. 
 
 The editor undertook the business of pre- 
 paring this work for the press, with some 
 reluctance, arising from the shortness of the 
 time that could be allowed him for the per- 
 formance of it, and the numerous avocations 
 of the gospel ministry, which would leave 
 but a part of that time at his own com- 
 mand. For undertaking it at all, in such 
 circumstances, his only apology is, that, in 
 the opinion of the authour, there was no 
 other person, conveniently situated for per- 
 sonal intercourse with him, who would be 
 willing to undertake it, whose circumstances 
 would be more favourable. It is by the par- 
 ticular request of the authour, and not be- 
 cause I suppose that I have performed the 
 office of an editor, in a manner creditable to 
 myself, that I have consented to connect my 
 name with this publication. 
 
 The following work was furnished to my 
 hand, fully written out; and though I have 
 written it wholly over, I should have been 
 much better able to satisfy myself, with re- 
 spect to its style, if I could as fully have 
 possessed the materials, in the form of notes 
 and sketches, or by verbal recitals. Every 
 man's own mind is the mould of his Ian- 
 
xiv PREFACE. 
 
 guage; and he who has attempted to vary 
 that of another, if he be at all accustomed 
 to writing, must have found the task more 
 difficult than original composition. The 
 style of this work is not properly my own, 
 nor that of Mr. Harmon, but something 
 between both. 
 
 There is one subject, on which I wish 
 especially to address a few remarks, through 
 the medium of this preface, to the christian 
 publick, and to all who feel any regard for 
 the welfare of the Indian tribes, whose con- 
 dition is unfolded in this work. As Mr. 
 Harmon has returned to the interiour of 
 North America, and, therefore, the obser- 
 vations which follow, will not be submitted 
 to his inspection, before they are made pub- 
 lick, the editor alone must be made account- 
 able for them. 
 
 In surveying the widely extended trade of 
 the North West Company, we perceive evi- 
 dence of an energy and perseverance, highly 
 creditable to the members of it, as men of 
 business. They have explored the western 
 wilds, and planted their establishments over 
 a tract of country, some thousands of miles 
 in extent. They have made the savages of 
 the wilderness tributary to the comforts of 
 civilized society ; and in many instances, they 
 have exhibited a surprising fortitude, in ex- 
 posing themselves to hardship and to danger. 
 
 The souls of the Indians are of more value 
 than their furs; and to raise this people in 
 
PEEFACE. XV 
 
 the scale of intellectual existence, to sur- 
 round them with the comforts of civilization, 
 to rescue them from the gloom of supersti- 
 tion, to mould their hearts to christian 
 kindness, and to cheer their dying hour with 
 a well founded hope of immortal glory and 
 blessedness, constitutes an aggregate of good 
 sufficient to call forth exertion for their relief. 
 The time is rapidly coming, when christian 
 benevolence will emulate the activity and per- 
 severance, which have long been, displayed in 
 commercial enterprizes ; when no country will 
 remain unexplored by the heralds of the 
 cross, where immortal souls are shrouded 
 in the darkness of heathenism, and are per- 
 ishing for lack of vision. The wandering and 
 benighted sons of our own forests, shall not 
 be overlooked. They are not a race aban- 
 doned by God, to inevitable destruction; 
 though the idea has, strangely, gotten pos- 
 session of some minds. In proportion to 
 the efforts which have been made, perhaps 
 no missions to the heathen have been 
 crowned with greater success, than those to 
 the American Aborigines. To this fact, the 
 fruit of the labours of Elliott, of the May- 
 hews, of Brainerd, of the Moravians, and, 
 especially of the recent establishment among 
 the Cherokees, will bear abundant witness. 
 
 The Indian tribes, whose condition is un- 
 folded in this work, have claims upon chris- 
 tian compassion ; and some facts, which the 
 authour has disclosed to me, have led me to 
 
xvi PREFACE. 
 
 suppose, that a missionary establishment 
 might be made, with reference to their in- 
 struction, with a fair prospect of success, and 
 with less expense, than ordinarily attends 
 such operations. 
 
 In the numerous establishments of the 
 North West Company, there are from twelve 
 to fifteen hundred women and children, who 
 are wholly, or in part, of Indian extraction. 
 Women have, from time to time, been taken 
 from among the Natives, to reside in the 
 forts, by the men in the service of the Com- 
 pany; and families have been reared, which 
 have generally been left in the country, when 
 these men have retired to the civilized parts 
 of the world. These women and children, 
 with a humanity which deserves commen- 
 dation, are not turned over to the savages ; 
 but they are fed, if not clothed, by the Com- 
 pany. They have become so numerous, as 
 to be a burden to the concern; and a rule 
 has been established, that no person, in the 
 service of the Company, shall hereafter take 
 a woman from among the Natives to reside 
 with him, as a sufficient number, of a mixed 
 blood, can be found, who are already con- 
 nected with the Company. There are, also, 
 in the N. W. country, many superannuated 
 Canadians, who have spent the flower of their 
 days in the service of the Company, who 
 have families that they are unwilling to 
 leave; and having nothing to attract them 
 to the civilized world, they continue under 
 
PREFACE. xvii 
 
 the protection of the Company, and are sup- 
 plied by them, with the necessaries of life. 
 
 A plan has been in contemplation, to pro- 
 vide for the future maintenance of these 
 people, and for the relief of the Company 
 from an increasing burden, which is, to es- 
 tablish a settlement on the Kainy Lake 
 Kiver, where the soil is excellent, to which 
 the people, above mentioned, may resort. 
 To enable them to make a beginning, in the 
 cultivation of the land, and in the erection of 
 mills, &c., the Company propose to give 
 them fifteen or twenty thousand dollars, 
 and to appoint one of the Partners to super- 
 intend the affairs of the settlement, for 
 three years, or for a longer time, if it shall 
 be necessary. 
 
 It appears highly probable, that a set- 
 tlement might thus be formed, which, in a 
 few years, would secure to those who should 
 belong to it, the comforts of life, as the fruit 
 of their own industry; and should they 
 prosper, so far as to raise a supply beyond 
 their own necessities, it might, with mutual 
 advantage, be disposed of to the Company. 
 
 The Partners and Clerks of the North 
 West Company, who are in the Indian coun- 
 try, as well as some of those who reside in 
 Canada, and elsewhere, have subscribed sev- 
 eral thousand dollars, toward the establish- 
 ment of a school, either at the Eainy Lake, 
 or at Fort William, for the instruction of the 
 children, connected with their establishments. 
 
xviii PEEFACE. 
 
 Some of these children are the offspring of 
 parents, who survey their comparative deg- 
 radation, with the deep interest of a strong- 
 natural affection, who are able to bear the 
 expense of their education, and who would 
 cheerfully contribute, in this way, to raise 
 them to increased respectability, comfort and 
 usefulness. Should this school be established, 
 such persons would be required to support 
 their children, who should belong to it ; while 
 the children of the poor, would be taught 
 gratuitously. 
 
 These facts have opened to my mind a 
 prospect, to which I wish to direct the eye 
 of christian benevolence. I would ask, with 
 deep interest, some one of the institutions, 
 whose object is the diffusion of civilization 
 and Christianity among the Indian tribes, 
 whether a missionary establishment might 
 not be formed, in concert with the North 
 West Company, which would, with much 
 less trouble and even expense to them, ac- 
 complish the object which the Company 
 have in view, than any establishment which 
 they could independently make; and which 
 would, at the same time, have a most aus- 
 picious bearing upon the religious interests 
 of the tribes of the N. W. Country. 
 
 A school for the instruction of children in 
 the arts of life, and in the rudiments of 
 science, as well as in the principles of the 
 christian religion, forms the basis of the most 
 efficient missionary exertions among the In- 
 
PREFACE. xix 
 
 dians. The school among the Cherokees, is 
 a most interesting object to christian be- 
 nevolence; and as the fruit of it, the light 
 of science, and' the still brighter light of the 
 Sun of Righteousness, is shedding a cheering 
 radiance over many minds, that would other- 
 wise have been shrouded in intellectual and 
 moral darkness. The school has received the 
 unqualified approbation of men of all de- 
 scriptions who have visited it, among whom 
 are many persons of the most distinguished 
 character and rank in civil life. If such a 
 school were established, at a convenient 
 place in the N. W. Country, it would be as 
 the Day Spring from on High to a region, 
 now overspread by an intellectual and moral 
 midnight. 
 
 Men, occupied as the gentlemen of the 
 North West Company are, in the overwhelm- 
 ing cares of a vast commercial concern, 
 would find it difficult to bestow all that at- 
 tention on a school for the instruction of 
 the children and youth, now in their estab- 
 lishments, whom they might think it proper 
 to educate, which would be necessary to 
 secure its proper management. Could this 
 care be entirely taken off their hands, by 
 men of known and approved characters, 
 acting under a responsibility to some re- 
 spectable society ; by men who would feel all 
 the interests which christian benevolence can 
 create in the welfare of the children and 
 youth committed to their care, it does ap- 
 
XX PREFACE. 
 
 pear to me, that they would gladly co-oper- 
 ate with them. 
 
 As the North West Company from motives 
 of interest, as well as from more noble con- 
 siderations, would contribute something to 
 the support of such an establishment, should 
 it meet their approbation, the expense of it 
 would, of course, be less to the society that 
 should embark in the undertaking, than is 
 commonly incurred, in establishments of this 
 sort. 
 
 The children and youth above mentioned, 
 might be instructed in the arts of civilized 
 life, in science and in Christianity, with much 
 greater ease than the children of the Natives, 
 even if they could as easily be obtained; 
 and when instructed, they would be equally 
 promising, as the instruments of spreading 
 civilization and the religion of the gospel, 
 among the Indian tribes. They have always 
 been habituated to a life, in a great measure 
 settled; and they would, therefore, endure 
 confinement, better than children who have 
 lived among the wandering savages. They 
 are partially civilized, by an intercourse with 
 those, who have carried into the wilderness 
 many of the feelings and habits of civilized 
 society. They would not be liable to be 
 withdrawn, at an improper time, from the 
 place of their education, by the whims and 
 caprice of unstable parents. At the same 
 time, being familiarly acquainted with the 
 manners and customs and feelings of the 
 
PREFACE. xxi 
 
 savages, by a frequent intercourse with them, 
 being able to speak their languages, and 
 having some of the Indian blood circulating 
 in their veins, they would, when properly in- 
 structed, be as well qualified to gain access 
 to the Natives, and to have influence over 
 them, as if they had originally been taken, 
 directly from their families. 
 
 As this establishment could probably be 
 made, with the greatest convenience, within 
 the British dominions, it might, perhaps, be 
 undertaken with the surest prospect of suc- 
 cess, by some society in Great Britain. The 
 Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian 
 Knowledge has, heretofore, contributed to 
 the support of missionaries among the Ameri- 
 can Indians; and might, perhaps, be willing 
 to engage in this undertaking. The Society 
 in Massachusetts for Propagating the Gospel 
 among the Indians of North America has, 
 in some instances, if I mistake not, acted in 
 concert with the Society in Scotland, above 
 mentioned ; and might, perhaps, conveniently 
 do it in this instance. Every association, 
 however, who may become acquainted with 
 the facts here disclosed, will be able them- 
 selves, to judge most correctly, of their own 
 resources, and of their own duty.— At Fort 
 William, on Lake Superior, a very consider- 
 able number of the partners of the North West 
 Company assemble annually, about the mid- 
 dle of June, at which meeting, many impor- 
 tant arrangements are made, respecting the 
 
xxii PREFACE. 
 
 business of the Company. At such a meeting 
 an agent from some benevolent association, 
 might ascertain their feelings, in regard to 
 such an establishment as I have proposed. 
 
 The Aborigines of America, are capable of 
 being exalted in the scale of existence, and 
 of arriving, even at eminence, in the arts and 
 sciences. The native oratory of some of 
 them, is proverbial in civilized countries, 
 and has caused them to be enrolled among 
 the sons of genius. Many of them afford 
 proof, that they possess acute and compre- 
 hensive minds ; and as a people, their mental 
 capacity is certainly respectable. Nor, per- 
 haps, can a people be found on the earth 
 who are not raised above them by superior 
 cultivation and means of improvement, who 
 possess greater elevation of feeling, and who 
 appear more majestick in ruins. Their vir- 
 tues and their vices too, are not those of 
 ignoble minds. Let their condition be im- 
 proved by the arts of civilized life, their 
 minds be enlightened by science, and their 
 hearts be softened by the genial influence of 
 Christianity, and they will assume a respect- 
 able rank among the nations. Could we hear 
 some of their superior geniuses unfold to 
 their countrymen the wonderful scheme of 
 'redeeming mercy, with the brilliancy and 
 pathos, which have characterised some of 
 their speeches, on the interests of their tribes, 
 — with a brilliancy, rendered more splendid 
 by cultivation, and a pathos, made doubly 
 
PREFACE. xxiii 
 
 tender by the softening influence of the gos- 
 pel, who would not listen to them with ad- 
 miration and with pleasure? Might we not 
 hope that, by the blessing of God, they would 
 be made the honoured and happy instru- 
 ments, of turning many of their countrymen, 
 from the errour of their ways to the wis- 
 dom of the just. Could numbers of them be 
 brought to concert plans for the extension 
 of the gospel, in the North Western wilds, 
 with the skill, and to execute them with the 
 fortitude and perseverance, which they dis- 
 play in warring upon each other, the hap- 
 piest results might be expected. 
 
 Whether the suggestions here made deserve 
 consideration or not, I cheerfully submit to 
 the wisdom and benevolence of those, for 
 whom they were especially intended. Such 
 has been my own view of the importance of 
 the subject here presented, that I should 
 have charged myself with a culpable neglect, 
 if I had failed to improve this opportunity, 
 to hold it up to the attention of the christian 
 publick. 
 
 DANIEL HASKEL. 
 
 Burlington, Yt., August 2, 1820. 
 
JOURNAL. 
 
 April, 1800. 
 
 Tuesday, 29. La Chine. Yesterday, I left 
 Montreal, for this place, in company with 
 several other Clerks ; and am on my way to 
 the interiour, or Indian countries, there to 
 remain, if my life should be spared, for seven 
 years, at least. For this space of time I am 
 under an engagement to serve as a clerk to 
 the North West Company, otherwise denomi- 
 nated McTavish, Frobisher & Co. The goods 
 intended for the interiour or upper countries, 
 are here put on board of canoes. These 
 canoes which are constructed of the bark of 
 the birch tree, will carry a burden of three 
 and an half or four tons each ; and are sever- 
 ally manned by eight or nine Canadians, 
 who are said to manage them with greater 
 dexterity, than any other people. 
 
 Wednesday^^O. Point Claire. Rainy even- 
 ing. For the first time in my life, I am to 
 pass the night in a tent. In the former part 
 of the day, I was employed in marking bales 
 of goods, which are to be sent to the Grand 
 Portage or General Rendezvous. About 12 
 
2 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 o'clock, I embarked on board of one of the 
 canoes, destined for the above mentioned 
 place. The whole squadron, which consists 
 of thirty canoes, is divided into three bri- 
 gades. One or two Guides or Pilots are at- 
 tached to each brigade. Their business is, 
 to point out the best course up and down 
 the streams and through the lakes, and to 
 take charge of the canoes and property on 
 board. They attend to the repairs of the 
 canoes, which are frequently broken, and 
 have the same command over the men, at- 
 tached to their respective brigades, as the 
 commander of a vessel has, over the men on 
 board. The Voyagers, as the men are called, 
 have many of the customs of sailors; and 
 among them the following. By all those on 
 board, who have never passed certain places, 
 they expect to be treated with something to 
 drink ; and should a person refuse to comply 
 with their requisitions, he would be sure of 
 being plunged into the water, which they 
 profanely call, baptizing him. To avoid such 
 a disaster, I gave the people of my canoe a 
 few bottles of spirits and porter, by drinking 
 which, they became very merry, and exhib- 
 ited the reverse of their appearance a few 
 days since, when, with heavy hearts and 
 keeping eyes, they parted from their rela- 
 tions. Shortly, after we had pitched our 
 tents, an Irish gentleman, whose house was 
 near the margin of the water, politely in- 
 vited me to take tea with him. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 3 
 
 Friday, May 2. Chute au Blondeau. We 
 have a strong head wind. But, since yester- 
 day morning, we have come nearly sixty 
 miles, and have passed two Rapids. At these 
 places, most of the property was taken out 
 of the canoes, and carried across the Port- 
 ages, on the backs of the people. The young 
 men, who have never been in the Indian coun- 
 tries, now began to regret that they had 
 enlisted into this service, which requires them, 
 as they say, to carry burdens like horses, 
 when, by remaining in their own country, 
 they might have laboured like men. 
 
 Sunday, 4. The wind has been so high, 
 during the whole of the day, that we could 
 not go upon the water. I have therefore 
 passed the time in reading, and in the so- 
 ciety of a fellow-clerk. 
 
 Monday, 5. We are now about one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles from Montreal. This 
 afternoon, our people killed a deer, Vv^ith their 
 setting poles, as he was crossing the river. 
 
 Tuesday, 6. The Three Kettles. In the 
 former part of the day, we passed a beauti- 
 ful water-fall, where the Riviere au Rideau, 
 or Curtain River, falls into this, which is the 
 Ottawa River. The former is ten or twelve 
 rods wide, and the water falls perpendicularly, 
 about forty feet, presenting at a little dis- 
 tance, an appearance at once pleasing and 
 grand. We are now about one hundred and 
 fifty miles from Montreal; the land on each 
 side of the river is very level, and the soil 
 
4 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 appears to be good. William McGilvray, 
 Esq. passed us this evening, in a light canoe, 
 bound like ourselves, to the Grand Portage. 
 
 Thursday, 8. Au Chat. We now, for the 
 first time, see Indian huts or tents. 
 
 Friday, 9. We arrived this morning, at 
 this place, where the North West Company 
 have a small establishment; and I have 
 passed the afternoon, in shooting pigeons. 
 
 Saturday, 10. Grand Calumet. This Port- 
 age is nearly two miles long; and over 
 it, the people carry both the canoes and their 
 loading. Here stands a house, built by those 
 who came here to traffick with the Indians; 
 but which has been abandoned for several 
 ■years, as the Indians, who formerly hunted 
 in this vicinity, are now gone farther north, 
 where Beaver, &c. are found in greater 
 plenty. Behind this house, I found a smaU 
 bark canoe, in which I embarked alone, for 
 the purpose of shooting ducks. Having pro- 
 ceeded some distance from the shore, the 
 canoe overset, and I fell, with my gun, into 
 the water. Having my great coat on, it 
 was with no small difliculty that I rea<3hed 
 the shore; and I was happy to escape, with 
 the loss of only my gun. 
 
 Sunday, 11. We are encamped on an Is- 
 land opposite to Fort Coulonge. Soon after 
 we arrived here, the person who has the 
 establishment in charge, came to invite a 
 feUow-clerk, who travels in the same canoe 
 with me, and myself, to sup with him, to 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. H 
 
 which I readily agreed; but my companion 
 chose to remain with the canoes. I was 
 treated with all the politeness of which a 
 Canadian is master, which is not a little; 
 for in this, as well as in many other respects, 
 the Canadians resemble their ancestors, the 
 French. 
 
 Monday, 12. We are encamped on a large 
 sand bank. I have had a little conversation 
 with my fellow-traveller, respecting his con- 
 duct the last evening, while I was absent. 
 When I departed for the Fort, I gave him 
 the keys of our travelling box and basket, 
 that he might have the means of making a 
 supper ; and on my return, I was not a little 
 surprised at finding not only him, but sev- 
 eral of the common labourers, much intoxi- 
 cated. I reprimanded Mr. P. with consider- 
 able severity, to-day, and told him, that if 
 I should ever again find him in the like 
 shameful condition, I should be under the 
 disagreeable necessity of informing our em- 
 ployers of his conduct, as soon as we should 
 reach Head -quarters. He promised that he 
 would not again be guilty of such conduct; 
 but I should place more reliance on his 
 promise, had not his mother been a squaw. 
 There seems to be in the blood of an Indian, 
 a kind of predisposition to intemperance. — 
 We barter with the natives, receiving sugar 
 for biscuit, of which, as well as of pork, beef 
 and spirits, they appear to be uncommonly 
 fond. 
 
6 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Tuesday, 13. We are encamped on a rocky 
 bank, where it is impossible to find a smooth 
 place, sufficiently large to pitch a tent; we 
 are therefore obliged to make our bed be- 
 tween two large rocks, and sleep in the open 
 air. On the north side of the river are moun- 
 tains, which appear almost destitute of tim- 
 ber, of any kind. 
 
 Wednesday, 14. We shall again sleep where 
 we did last night, as the people have been 
 employed, during the whole of the day, in re- 
 pairing the canoes, which had become leaky. 
 
 Thursday, 15. Roche Capitaine Portage. 
 This Portage is so named from a large rock, 
 that rises to a considerable height above 
 the water, in the middle of the rapid. Dur- 
 ing the day, we have come up several difficult 
 ones, where many persons have been drowned, 
 either in coming up or going down. For 
 every such unfortunate person, whether his 
 corpse is found or not, a cross is erected by 
 his companions, agreeably to a custom of 
 the Roman Catholics; and at this place, I 
 see no less than fourteen. This is a melan- 
 choly sight. It leads me to reflect on the 
 folly and temerity of man, which cause him 
 to press on in the path, that has conducted 
 so many of his fellow creatures, prematurely 
 to the grave. Thus in hope of gaining a 
 little money, which can minister but imper- 
 fectly to our comfort, and that, during a 
 short season, we expose ourselves to death. 
 
 Friday, 16. Came up a rapid where, a 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 7 
 
 few years since, two canoes, in going down, 
 were broken, and several men were drowned ; 
 therefore, we see more crosses erected. 
 
 Saturday, 17. Roderick McKenzie, Esq. 
 agent for the North West Company, passed 
 us, who, with those that accompany him, is 
 on his way to the Grand Portage. 
 
 Sunday, 18. The Lazy Portage. This 
 day we left the Ottawa River on our right 
 hand, and came up a small river, that falls 
 into it. About noon, we passed a cave, in 
 the side of a high hill. This cave, I am told, 
 is spacious ; but we were in too great haste, 
 to permit my examining it. This I was the 
 more inclined to do, as I am told that the 
 natives relate many remarkable stories re- 
 specting it ; and among others, that a large 
 animal remains in it, which they call a Man- 
 eater, and which devours all those, who have 
 the presumption to approach the entrance, of 
 his solitary dwelling. 
 
 Monday, 19. The Pines. Came up several 
 bad rapids ; but have been so fortunate, thus 
 far, as to meet with no disaster. The banks 
 on each side of the river, for a considerable 
 distance, are a perfect natural wall, formed 
 of smooth stones; and are about one hun- 
 dred feet high. 
 
 Tuesday, 20. La Vase, or Miry-place. Dur- 
 ing the whole of this day, we have been 
 crossing ponds, and small lakes. 
 
 Wednesday, 21. After coming over a num- 
 ber of short portages, and crossing several 
 
8 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 ponds, and descending a small river, at the 
 source of which is a height of land, we have 
 at length arrived at a place, called the 
 Meadows, which constitutes the north end of 
 Lake Nipisangue, or, as it is commonly writ- 
 ten, Nippising. Here we find several Indians, 
 who appear to be in poor circumstances. 
 We, however, obtain from them a little sugar, 
 and a few wooden dishes and spoons, for 
 which we give them provisions. 
 
 Thursday, 22. Sailed a part of the day, 
 on the above mentioned lake; but, towards 
 noon, the wind was so high, that we were 
 obliged to encamp on a small island, which 
 is almost destitute of wood. 
 
 Friday, 23. The Lost Child. This place 
 took its name from the following circum- 
 stance. Several years since, the natives, be- 
 ing encamped here, lost a child, for whom 
 they made diligent search, but in vain. They 
 imagined, however, that they heard his 
 lamentations in the bowels of the earth; 
 whereupon they commenced digging, but to 
 no purpose; the reason of which they con- 
 ceived to be, that the Devil, or Bad Spirit, 
 as he is called by the Indians, was continu- 
 ally carrying him from one place to another, 
 , in the earth. Many large holes have actually 
 been dug in the earth, as our people have 
 shown me. 
 
 In the morning we left Lake Nipisangue, 
 and have ever since been descending the 
 French River, which is a considerable stream. 
 
HARMON'S JOUBNAL. 9 
 
 In the latter part of the day, we passed 
 a narrow place in the French River, to which, 
 a number of years since, many of the most 
 abandoned and savage Natives were accus- 
 tomed to resort every spring, and where 
 they built a kind of Fort, or stone wall, 
 which is still to be seen. Behind this, these 
 villains secreted themselves; and, when the 
 voyagers were passing by, discharged volleys 
 of shot into their canoes, and of course, as 
 the distance was small, killed many of them. 
 They would then rush from their hiding place, 
 and fall upon and butcher the remainder, 
 and go off with the plunder, which they had 
 thus seized, into a distant part of the coun- 
 try. But the better sort of their country- 
 men, would not join them in such barbarous 
 and unprovoked hostilities. At length the 
 good Indians, who were well disposed to- 
 wards the white people from Canada, pro- 
 nounced these murderers a nuisance to so- 
 ciety, and made war upon them, until the 
 greater part of them were destroyed. The few 
 that survived, retired into a distant part of 
 the country, and nothing has since been 
 heard, respecting them. ^ The friendly Indians, 
 for their exertions in extirpating their un- 
 worthy relations, were handsomely rewarded 
 by the North West Company. 
 
 The Canadian Voyagers, when they leave 
 one stream to go up or down another, have 
 a custom of pulling off their hats, and mak- 
 ing the sign of the cross, upon which one in 
 
10 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 each, canoe, or at least, in each brigade, re- 
 peats a short prayer. The same ceremonies 
 are observed by them, whenever they pass a 
 place, where any one has been interred, and 
 a cross has been erected. Those, therefore, 
 who are in the habit of voyaging this way, 
 are obliged to say their prayers more fre- 
 quently perhaps, than when at home; for 
 at almost every rapid which we have passed, 
 since we left Montreal, we have seen a num- 
 ber of crosses erected ; and at one, I counted 
 no less than thirty ! It is truly melancholy, 
 and discouraging, seriously to reflect on the 
 great number of my fellow creatures, who 
 have been brought to an untimely end, by 
 voyaging this way, as I know not but I shall 
 myself, also, be doomed to the same watery 
 grave. With such dismal spectacles, however, 
 almost continually before our eyes, we press 
 forward, with all the ardour and rashness 
 of youth, in the same dangerous path, stimu- 
 lated by the hopes of gratifying the eye, and 
 of securing a little gold. 
 
 Saturday, 24. Lake Huron. We find on 
 the shore of this lake, low Cranberries, in 
 great abundance. 
 
 Sunday, 25. The wind has been so high, 
 that it has prevented us from sailing, the 
 greater part of the day. We are encamped 
 on an island, of which there are many in this 
 lake. On one of them, it is reported, that 
 the Natives killed a snake, which measured 
 thirty-six feet in length. The length and 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 11 
 
 size of this astonishing serpent, they have 
 engraved on a large smooth rock, which we 
 saw, as we passed by. But we have often 
 seen other engravings, on the rocks, along 
 the rivers and lakes, of many different kinds 
 of animals, some of which, I am told, are 
 not now to be found, in this part of the 
 world, and probably never existed. 
 
 Wednesday, 28. Island of St. Joseph. To 
 this place the British troops came and built 
 a fortification, when the Americans took 
 possession of Michilimackinack. There are 
 stationed here one Captain, one Lieutenant, 
 one Ensign, and thirty nine privates. The 
 fort is built on a beautiful rise of ground, 
 which is joined to the main island by a nar- 
 row neck of land. As it is not long since a 
 settlement was made here, they have only 
 four dwelling houses and two stores, on the 
 other parts of the peninsula; and the in- 
 habitants appear like exiles. The North West 
 Company have a house and store here. In 
 the latter, they construct canoes, for sending 
 into the interiour, and down to Montreal. 
 Vessels, of about sixty tons burden, come 
 here from Detroit and Mackana and Soult 
 St. Maries. The whole island is computed 
 to be about twenty miles in circumference; 
 the soil is good; it is distant, nearly nine 
 hundred miles from Montreal, and forty-five 
 from Mackana, and is in Lat. 47° North. 
 Spirits are sold here for six dollars a gallon ; 
 and other things, in the same proportion. 
 
12 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Thursday, 29. Duncan McGilvray, Esq. 
 one of the agents for the North West Com- 
 pany, arrived in the morning, at St. Josephs, 
 from Mackana ; and soon after, we embarked 
 on board of our canoes, to come to this 
 small Island. As the weather is calm, my 
 fellow-traveller and I intend sleeping in our 
 canoe ; but the labourers will pass the night 
 on shore. 
 
 Friday 30. Soult St. Maries. Here the 
 North West Company have another establish- 
 ment on the north side of the Rapid ; and on 
 the opposite shore, there are a few Americans, 
 Scotch and Canadians, who carry on a small 
 traflBc with the Natives, and also till the 
 ground a little. The soil about Lake Huron, 
 which we have just passed, appears to be 
 good, and the face of the country is low and 
 level.— Here the North West Company have 
 built locks, in order to take uploaded canoes, 
 that they may not be under the necessity of 
 carrying them by land, to the head of the 
 Rapid; for the current is too strong to be 
 stemmed by any craft. The Company are 
 likewise building a saw mill, at the foot of 
 the Rapid, to furnish boards, &c. for the 
 Grand Portage, &c. Here is the outlet of 
 Lake Superiour, by which its waters pass 
 into Lake Huron. On each of these lakes, 
 the North West Company have a vessel. 
 One goes to the Grand Portage, and the 
 other to Detroit, &c. 
 
 Saturday, 31. We shall sleep where we 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. l3 
 
 did the last night. Several of us have visited 
 the people, who live on the other side of the 
 rapid, where we saw a dance of the Natives, 
 who are Sauteux or Chippeways. 
 
 Sunday, June 1. Point a,u Pin, or Pine 
 Point, in Lake Superiour. We here find the 
 vessel that sails from this to the Grand Por- 
 tage. I went on board, and the Captain in- 
 formed me, that she would carry about ninety 
 five tons, and that she makes four or five 
 trips every season. I left the Soult St. 
 Maries, in company with three hundred men, 
 who are in thirty five canoes. 
 
 Monday, 2. Point slux Arable, or Maple 
 Point. We now form four Brigades, in which 
 there are six clerks. 
 
 Tuesday, 3. A high wind during the wholf 
 day. In the morning, we attempted to sail, 
 but soon found we could not, without ship^ 
 ping a great deal of water; we therefore 
 soon landed again, and are encamped, within 
 one hundred rods of the place where we tar- 
 ried the last night. 
 
 Wednesday, 4. As it has rained and 
 snowed all day, accompanied by a high wind^ 
 we have not been able to leave our encamp- 
 ment of the last night. Mons. St. Germain, 
 who has the charge of a small Fort, belong- 
 ing to the North West Company, not far 
 from this, visited us, and brought with him 
 a few necessaries. 
 
 Thursday, 5. Although the swells in the 
 Lake are very high, we have made good 
 
14 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 progress, during the whole day. We are 
 encamped near a large rock, on which the 
 Natives, as they pass this way, leave an 
 arrow or two, or some other article of little 
 value to appease the Devil, or Muchamuna- 
 too, as they call him, and prevent him from 
 doing them harm. 
 
 Sunday, 8. In the course of the day, we 
 have passed several islands, which, as well 
 as the main land, appear to be covered with 
 little else besides moss, with here and there 
 a shrubby spruce. 
 
 Monday, 9. In the morning we passed 
 another Fort, belonging to the North West 
 Company. 
 
 Tuesday, 10. We are obliged to anchor 
 our canoes by a small island, instead of un- 
 loading them, as is customary every night, 
 for the whole country is on fire ; but whether 
 by accident or design, I am unable to learn. 
 Our people, who pass this way every sum- 
 mer, say that, almost every year, fire runs 
 over this part of the country, which is, of 
 course, nearly destitute of animals, of any 
 kind. 
 
 Thursday, 12. Sugar Point. Our people 
 say we have sailed ninety miles during the 
 day. 
 
 Friday, 13. Grand Portage, where we 
 arrived late this evening. This place lies in 
 the 48th degree of north latitude ; and is 
 said to be nine hundred miles from the Soult 
 St. Maries, and eighteen hundred from Mon- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 15 
 
 treal. The Fort, which is twenty four rods 
 by thirty, is built on the margin of a bay, 
 at the foot of a hill or mountain, of con- 
 siderable height. Within the fort, there is a 
 considerable number of dwellinghouses, shops 
 and stores, all of which appear to be slight 
 buildings, and designed only for present con- 
 venience. The houses are surrounded by 
 palisades, which are about eighteen inches in 
 diameter, and are sunk nearly three feet in 
 the ground, and rise about fifteen feet above 
 it. The bay is so shallow that the vessel 
 cannot approach the shore, unless she is al- 
 most without lading. There is a consider- 
 able island, directly opposite to the fort, 
 which shelters the vessel from the winds that 
 blow from the Lake ; and which renders this 
 a tolerably good harbour. There is also an- 
 other fort, which stands about two hundred 
 rods from this, belonging to the X. Y. Com- 
 pany, under which firm, a number of mer- 
 chants of Montreal and Quebec, &c. now 
 carry on a trade into this part of the coun- 
 try. It is only three years since they made 
 an establishment here ; and as yet, they have 
 had but little success. 
 
 This is the Head Quarters or General Ren- 
 dezvous, for all who trade in this part of the 
 world; and therefore, every summer, the 
 greater part of the Proprietors and Clerks, 
 who have spent the winter in the Interiour 
 come here with the furs which they have 
 been able to collect; during the preceding sea- 
 
16 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 son. This, as I am told, is about the time 
 when thej generally arrive ; and some of them 
 are already here. The people who come from 
 Montreal with the goods, go no farther than 
 this, excepting a few who take those articles 
 to the Eainy Lake, which are intended for 
 Athabasca, as that place lies at too great 
 a distance from this, to permit people who 
 reside there to come to this place and return, 
 before the winter commences. Those who 
 bring the goods from Montreal, on their 
 return, take down the furs, &c. from the 
 north. 
 
 Excellent fish, I am informed, are taken 
 here. White fish are sometimes speared, which 
 will weigh twenty-tu^o pounds. The water 
 in the lake is uncommonly clear. 
 
 Sunday, 15. The people here pass the 
 Sabbath, much in the same manner as they 
 do, the other days of the week. The labour- 
 ing people have been employed, during the 
 day, in making and pressing packs of furs, 
 to be sent to Canada. This appears, not 
 as it should be, to me, who have been taught 
 to abstain from labour on the sabbath, 
 and to consider that it should be employed 
 in a religious manner. The people, how- 
 ever, who have been long in this savage 
 country, have no scruples of conscience on 
 this subject. 
 
 Tuesday, 24. I have, for some days past, 
 been employed, together with several other 
 clerks, in marking packs of furs. Almost 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 17 
 
 every day, for some time past, people have 
 been flocking in from the Interiour, with the 
 returns of the season. 
 
 Saturday, 28. The last night, a squaw, 
 in a state of intoxication, stabbed her hus- 
 band, who soon after expired. This after- 
 noon, I went to their tent, where I saw a 
 number of Indians, of both sexes, drinking 
 and crying over the corpse, to which they 
 would frequently offer rum, and try to pour 
 it down his throat, supposing him to be as 
 fond of rum when dead, as he was when 
 alive. The Natives of this place are Chippe- 
 ways. 
 
 Friday, July 4. In the day time, the 
 Natives were permitted to dance in the fort, 
 and the Company made them a present of 
 thirty six gallons of shrub. In the evening, 
 the gentlemen of the place dressed, and we 
 had a famous ball, in the dining room. 
 For musick, we had the bag-pipe, the violin 
 and the flute, which added much to the in- 
 terest of the occasion. At the ball, there 
 was a number of the ladies of this country; 
 and I was surprised to find that they could 
 conduct with so much propriety, and dance 
 so well. 
 
 Sunday, 13. Yesterday, several gentlemen, 
 on their way to their winter quarters, accom- 
 panied me to Charlotte, at the other end of 
 this Portage, which is nine miles over. My 
 business was to send off a number of canoes, 
 bound for Fort des Prairies. The country 
 
18 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 between this and Fort Charlotte, is tolerably 
 level ; and the soil appears to be pretty good. 
 
 Tuesday, 15. This morning a number of 
 gentlemen, as well as myself, left the Grand 
 Portage, to proceed to winter quarters. I 
 am to accompany John McDonald, Esq. to 
 Fort des Prairies. We left Fort Charlotte, 
 about 3 o'clock P. M. on board of two 
 canoes, each of which will carry about two 
 tons, and is pushed on by six Canadians. 
 This is a small river; and we have passed 
 several places, where the men were obliged 
 to carry the ladings, a short distance, and 
 in some places, to transport the canoes also. 
 
 Wednesday, 16. The Long Cherry Port- 
 age. In the former part of the day, we 
 crossed small lakes and ponds, connected by 
 several portages, and then came over the 
 height of land. Since passing this, we have 
 descended a small river, which, I am in- 
 formed, after running through several lakes, 
 at length discharges itself into Hudson's Bay, 
 in latitude 51° north. At the mouth of this 
 river, the Hudson Bay Company have a fort, 
 which is called Albany Factory. 
 
 Friday, 18. Great Pines. We have this 
 day crossed the Flinty Lake, so named from 
 the stones, found on its shore. For some 
 time past, I have had a fit of the ague and 
 fever, every day. It commenced when I was 
 crossing the large Lakes; and, I am told, 
 that it is seldom that a person is attacked 
 with it, in the region where I now am, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 19 
 
 Monday, 21. For the last few days, we 
 have been crossing small lakes and ponds, 
 and coming down a small river. The coun- 
 try appears thinly timbered, lies rather low, 
 and the soil is good. 
 
 Tuesday, 22. This evening, there came 
 here three canoes, manned by Iroquois, who 
 are going into the vicinity of the upper Red 
 River, to hunt Beaver, for the North West 
 Company. Some of them have their families 
 with them. 
 
 Thursday, 24. Rainy Lake Fort. This is 
 built about a mile and a half down the river, 
 from the entrance of the Lake, where there 
 is a considerable fall. Here the soil is better 
 than any we have seen, since we left the 
 Ottawa River. The timber, also, is of a very 
 good size. The Lake and River are said to 
 contain excellent fish, such as sturgeon, white- 
 fish, &c. In the vicinity, a considerable 
 quantity of wild rice is gathered, by the 
 Natives, who are Chippeways. This is 
 thought to be nearly as nourishing as the 
 real rice, and almost as palatable. The ker- 
 nel of the former, is rather longer than that 
 of the latter, and is of a brownish colour. 
 
 Friday, 25. In the former part of the day, 
 we overtook several gentlemen, who, like 
 ourselves, are on their way to their winter 
 quarters. This is a beautiful river, and 
 pretty free from rapids. 
 
 Saturday, 26. This morning, we met 
 twenty-four canoes from Athabasca. They 
 
20 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 saj they suffered much for want of food, on 
 their way; and during four days, ate nothing. 
 We gave them a dram, which made them 
 almost forget their late sufferings. They 
 will arrive at the Rainy Lake, later than 
 usual. 
 
 Monday, 28. We have come down several 
 rapids, at one of which a canoe was broken, 
 the last year, and a man drowned. We are 
 still in the Rainy Lake River, which is about 
 one hundred and twenty miles long, and 
 twelve or fifteen rods broad. The land on 
 each side is low, and is said to be excellent. 
 The timber consists of birch, a species of 
 pine, hemlock, poplar, aspin, cedar, &c. 
 
 Tuesday, 29. This day we came across 
 the Woody Lake, which is full of islands. 
 It is about thirty-six miles in length; and 
 the soil about it is much like that, along 
 the Rainy Lake River. We are now in Wini- 
 pick River, and have passed a rapid where 
 the last year, three men were drowned. One 
 of our men fired at a black bear, but did 
 not kill him. 
 
 Wednesday, 30. Passed a number of miry 
 Portages, and a place where, three years 
 since, the Natives, who are Chippeways, fired 
 upon our people, but without killing any of 
 them. One of the Indians was taken, with 
 the intention of carrying him to the nearest 
 Fort, and there punishing him as he deserved. 
 After proceeding a considerable distance, 
 however, and when near a rapid, he jumped 
 
- HARMON'S JOURNAL. 21 
 
 out of the canoe, intending, as was sup- 
 posed, to swim to the opposite shore, and 
 thus escape. But the current was too strong; 
 and he went down the rapid, and was prob- 
 ably drowned. 
 
 Thursday, 31. Mouth of the River Wini- 
 pick. Here the North West Company, and 
 the Hudson Bay Company, have each a 
 fort. Here the above named river discharges 
 its waters into Lake Winipick. The River 
 Winipick, through the greater part of its 
 course, is a succession of small lakes; and 
 in several places there are falls, of a con- 
 siderable height. The country around it is 
 broken ; and occasionally, majestick and 
 frightful waterfalls are to be seen, par- 
 ticularly where the White River joins this, 
 about thirty miles above where we now are. 
 A few miles above this, there is a small 
 lake, called Lac de Bonne, from which the 
 Hudson Bay people leave our rout, and pro- 
 ceed toward the Albany Factory. The soil 
 is good ; and among the fruit, I observe the 
 red plum. The grape, also, grows well in 
 this vicinity. In the neighbouring woods, a 
 few moose and deer are found ; and the Lake 
 and River are well supplied with fish.— Our 
 people are employed in drying the goods 
 some of which were wet, in coming down the 
 rapids, yesterday. 
 
 Saturday, August 2. When I left the Grand 
 Portage, it was expected that I should go 
 up the Sisiscatchwin river, to spend the win- 
 
22 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 ter. That river falls into the north western 
 end of Lake Winipick. But, since our arrival 
 here, we have received intelligence from the 
 Swan River Department, which country lies 
 between Lake Winipick and the Red and 
 Assiniboin Rivers, that, in the opinion of Mr. 
 McLeod, who superintends the concerns of 
 that region, it is necessary to make another 
 establishment there. It is therefore deter- 
 mined that I shall go and take charge of it ; 
 and I shall accordingly remain here a few 
 days, to wait for the arrival of the brigade, 
 destined to the Swan River department. — 
 The after part of the day, I spent in shoot- 
 ing pigeons, which I found to be numerous, 
 as at this season, red raspberries, and other 
 kinds of fruit, are ripe, and exist here in 
 abundance. 
 
 Sunday, 3. In walking in the adjacent 
 country, I saw the bushes and brambles 
 loaded with ripe fruit. WTiile partaking of 
 it, I was led to reflect on the beneficence of 
 the great Authour of nature, who scatters 
 his favours with an unsparing hand, and 
 spreads a table here in the wilderness, for 
 the refreshment of his creatures. 
 
 This is the first day which I have ever 
 spent, since my infancy, without eating either 
 bread or biscuit. As a substitute for bread, 
 we now make use of what the Natives call 
 pimican, which consists of lean meat, dried 
 and pounded fine, and then mixed with melted 
 fat. This compound is put into bags, made 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 23 
 
 of the skins of the buff aloe, &c. and when 
 cold, it becomes a solid body. If kept in a 
 dry place, it will continue good for years. 
 But, if exposed to moisture, it will soon be- 
 come musty, and unfit for use. Pimican is 
 a very palatable, nourishing and healthy 
 food ; and on it, our Voyagers subsist, while 
 travelling in this country. Sometimes we add 
 to the two above named ingredients, sugar 
 or dried berries, which we procure from the 
 Natives; and the taste of it is thus very 
 much improved. 
 
 Monday, 4. I have visited the Hudson 
 Bay people, whose fort is but a few rods 
 from ours. Mr. Miller, the gentleman who 
 has charge of it, informed me, that they 
 obtain their goods from Albany Factory; 
 that, in going down with their barges, they 
 are generally about forty days; but, that 
 they are nearly twice that time in returning, 
 in consequence of the current. The Factory 
 lies to the north east from this. 
 
 Wednesday, 6. This morning Mr. Mc- 
 Donell, whom we passed a few days since, 
 overtook, and informed us, that one of his 
 canoes broke, in coming down the rapids, 
 that one of the men was drowned, and most 
 of the property on board was lost. 
 
 Friday, 8. This evening, Mons. Mayotte 
 took a woman of this country for a wife, or 
 rather concubine. All the ceremonies attend- 
 ing such an event, are the following. When 
 a person is desirous of taking one of the 
 
24 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 daughters of the Natives, as a companion, 
 he makes a present to the parents of the 
 damsel, of such articles as he supposes will 
 be most acceptable; and, among them, rum 
 is indispensable; for of that all the savages 
 are fond, to excess. Should the parents 
 accept the articles offered, the girl remains 
 at the fort with her suitor, and is clothed 
 in the Canadian fashion. The greater part 
 of these young women, as I am informed, 
 are better pleased to remain with the white 
 people, than with their own relations. Should 
 the couple, newly Joined, not agree, they 
 are at liberty, at any time, to separate; 
 but no part of the property, given to the 
 parents of the girl, will be refunded. 
 
 Sunday, 10. Lake Winipick. In the former 
 part of the day, the people for whom I have 
 long been waiting, came up ; and soon after, 
 I embarked with them, and came hither. 
 Although we are not in want of provisions, 
 yet our people have killed a dog to eat, the 
 flesh of which, they say, is delicious. The 
 dogs of this country, which resemble wolves, 
 differ considerably from the dogs, found in 
 the civilized part of the world. 
 
 Monday, 11. We embarked, early in the 
 morning; but soon, the wind blew so as to 
 oblige us to make the land, which we have 
 done, on a point that projects far into the 
 Lake. Soon after we reached the shore, a 
 number of the Indians of this quarter, who 
 are Chippeways and Muscagoes, came to pay 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 25 
 
 their respects to us, to whom we gave some 
 rum, tobacco, &c. 
 
 Sunday, 17. Entrance of the River Dau- 
 phine. Lake Winipick, which we now leave to 
 go up this river, is about two hundred and 
 fifty miles in length, and from three to sixty 
 or seventy, in breadth. The country about 
 this lake, for a considerable distance, is 
 low, and is overspread with pretty heavy 
 timber, and the soil appears to be good. 
 Dauphine river is so shallow, at present, 
 that our people are under the necessity of 
 leaving half their ladings, for which they 
 will return, after having proceeded a certain 
 distance with the remainder. 
 
 Tuesday, 19. Last night, the wind blew 
 so high, that it drove the water of the Lake 
 to such a distance up the beach, that we 
 were under the necessity of removing our 
 baggage farther into the woods, at three 
 different times. This morning, our people 
 came back for the remainder of the prop- 
 erty; and we proceeded up the river, which 
 is about ten rods wide. The country about 
 it is level. 
 
 Wednesday, 20. Lac St. Martin. The river 
 Dauphine passes through this lake. We here 
 see a great number of swans, bustards, peli- 
 cans, &c. The country around is swampy; 
 and I am informed, that Moose are numer- 
 ous in the vicinity. 
 
 Friday, 22. This morning we left Lac 
 St. Martin, and entered the Muddy Lake, 
 
26 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 where we again find fowls, in great abun- 
 dance. 
 
 Saturday, 23. North End of the Plain 
 Portage. This portage is about two miles 
 over, through a beautiful country, and the 
 soil is excellent. 
 
 Sunday, 24. Little Lake Winipick. Here 
 we find a number of the Natives, who are 
 Chippeways, waiting our arrival, to get 
 rum to drink, and necessaries, to enable 
 them to hunt the beaver. 
 
 Mon day, 2 5 . We remain still, where we were 
 the last night; and have been employed, 
 during the day, in making out a selection 
 of goods for the establishment at the en- 
 trance of the river Dauphine, which falls 
 into the west end of this Lake. At that 
 place, a French missionary resided, before 
 the British obtained possession of Canada. 
 We remained there, but for a short time; 
 and great success, therefore, could not have 
 been expected. I am told, however, that 
 there • are some Indians, still living, who 
 recollect prayers, which were taught them 
 by the missionary. 
 
 Saturday, 30. Encampment Island. Here 
 we arrived, in the fore part of the day ; and 
 we have been employed, ever since, in setting 
 aside goods for the Eed Deer Kiver, which 
 falls into this lake, at the north end. We 
 are now nearly across the lake, which is 
 about one hundred and twenty miles long, 
 and from five, to thirty broad. There are 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 27 
 
 no mountains, of any magnitude, in this 
 part of the country. The land is generally 
 low, and well covered with timber, which 
 consists of a species of pine, birch, poplar, 
 aspin, willow, &c. 
 
 Friday^ September 1. In the morning, 
 Mr. McGillis, with most of the people, left 
 us to proceed to the Red Deer River, where 
 they are to pass the ensuing winter. Mr. 
 McLeod, with a number qf people in one 
 canoe, has gone to Lac Bourbon, which place 
 lies nearly north west from this. We here 
 take, in nets, the white fish, which are ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 Wednesday, 3. I have passed the day in 
 reading the Bible, and in meditating on my 
 present way of living; and, I must confess, 
 that it too much resembles that of a savage. 
 
 Sunday, 7. Late the last evening, Mr. 
 McLeod returned from Lac Bourbon; and, 
 this morning they again embarked for Swan 
 River, and left me here, with two men, and 
 as many women, to wait for the arrival of 
 a number of canoes, which are still behind, 
 but which are expected in daily. 
 
 Wednesday, 10. Yesterday, a part of the 
 people arrived, for whom I have been waiting, 
 some of whom I sent to the Red Deer River, 
 and others to Swan River. 
 
 Sunday, October 4. North End of Little 
 Lake Winipick. From the 29th of August, 
 until the morning of this day, I remained 
 on Encampment Island, waiting for the ar- 
 
28 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 rival of the people, who were left behind. 
 But, as they had almost constantly high 
 winds, which, I am told, are common in this 
 late part of the season, they did not make 
 their appearance, until the second instant. 
 
 During the long stay which I made at 
 that unpleasant Island, we had little or noth- 
 ing to eat, excepting what we took from 
 the water with our nets. There were times 
 when we met with little success. When the 
 wind was high, we could not set our nets; 
 and consequently took nothing. One night 
 the wind was so high, that it took the only 
 canoe which we had, to the other side of 
 the Lake, a distance of five miles, at least. 
 We were thus deprived of the means of set- 
 ting our nets. On the eighth day after this 
 disaster. Providence sent an Indian to the 
 place of our encampment, who lent us his 
 canoe to go in search of ours, which our peo- 
 ple found, uninjured. "WTiile we had no canoe, 
 we were under the disagreeable necessity 
 of living upon the fish which we had. left 
 on the beach, when we took them in plenty. 
 They had, by this time, become almost pu- 
 trid. Unsavoury, however, as they were, they 
 did not last so long ^s we could have wished ; 
 for, when they were expended, we had noth- 
 ing to eat, until a kind Providence sent a 
 black bear near our tent«. One of my men 
 fired, and killed him, which was a blessing, 
 for which we endeavoured to be thankful. 
 We considered it sent bjr Heaven; and felt,, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 29 
 
 that we deserved not such a favour. But 
 the rain descends on the unjust as well as 
 the just. — Yesterday, it snowed, during most 
 of the day, which prevented us from decamp- 
 ing. But early this morning, without re- 
 luctance, we left the solitary Island, where 
 many a moment of ennui passed over me. 
 As I had no other book, I read during my 
 stay there the greater part of the Bible. 
 This afternoon, we met two men, in a small 
 canoe, from Swan Eiver, loaded with pro- 
 visions, for the people of the Ked Deer River. 
 We did not suffer so good an opportunity, 
 for furnishing ourselves with a suflBciency 
 of food, to sustain us until we should meet 
 with another supply, to pass unimproved. 
 How delicious is food to a person who is 
 near famishing ! But there are thousands, 
 who know not how to prize abundance, be- 
 cause they have never experienced the dis- 
 tresses of want. 
 
 Thursday, October 9. Little Swan River. 
 Yesterday, on account of high winds, we 
 could not leave our encampment; but early 
 this morning, we embarked on board of our 
 canoes, and at twelve, left Little Lake Wini- 
 pick, and entered this river, which is eight 
 or ten rods wide, very shallow, and full of 
 rapids. I therefore debarked, and walked 
 along on the beach about four miles, in the 
 snow, mud and water. The people, also, 
 for want of a sufficiency of water, were 
 obliged to debark, and drag their canoes 
 
30 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 up the shallow places. But we are now en- 
 camped around a large fire, with plenty of 
 food; I have given to each of the people 
 a dram, and we have all ceased to think 
 of the fatigue and trouble of the day. To 
 make a place to lie down, the people scrape 
 away the snow, and lay down a few branches 
 of the pine, such as this country in every 
 part produces; and on this we spread a 
 blanket or two, and cover ourselves with 
 another. A day of hard labour, and of great 
 fatigue, will enable a person to sleep soundly 
 on such a bed; and to obtain refreshment, 
 such as a sluggard will seek for in vain, on 
 a bed of down. 
 
 Friday, 10. Swan River Fort. In the 
 morning we crossed Swan Lake, which is 
 nearly eight miles long, and then entered 
 the Great Swan River. This river is about 
 eleven rods wide ; there^ is a sufficiency of 
 water, and there is no rapid from its mouth 
 to the fort, a distance of twelve miles. The 
 country adjoining, is low, and in many places, 
 swampy, and the soil is rich. Mons. Perig-ne, 
 the superintendant of the fort, has a tolerable 
 kitchen garden. The Hudson Bay people 
 once came here ; but it is several years since 
 they abandoned the place. As they have 
 nothing to expect from the Company, but 
 their salaries, they seem, so far as I can 
 learn, to make but little exertion to extend 
 their trade, and, thereby, to benefit their 
 employers. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAi^ ^1 
 
 Saturday, 11. The day has been employed 
 in fitting out Mons. Perigne, who, with six 
 labouring men, is to go and build a fort, 
 about fifty miles up this river, where they 
 will pass the winter. A few miles from this, 
 there is a salt spring, by boiling down the 
 water of which, tolerable salt is made. It 
 is less strong than that brought from Can- 
 ada; but, used in suflacient quantity, it will 
 preserve meat very well. 
 
 Sunday, 12. The people destined to build 
 a fort up the river, left us to day. I shall 
 remain here until some persons arrive from 
 Alexandria, which is situated nearly one 
 hundred miles to the westward of this, among 
 the Prairies. There I shall pass the winter, 
 with Mr. McLeod, or go and build by the 
 side of the Hudson Bay people, who are 
 about three leagues distant from him.— Our 
 men shoot a few horses and ducks. 
 
 Thursday, 16. We have taken a few fish 
 out of this river, with nets. This evening, 
 two men on horses arrived from Alexandria, 
 by whom I received a letter from Mr. Mc- 
 Leod, requesting me to accompany them to 
 that place. 
 
 Saturday, 18. Second crossing place in 
 the Swan River. In the morning we left the 
 fort. The country which we have passed 
 through, is low; and the timber, consisting 
 of poplar, aspin, birch, willow, pine and an 
 inferiour kind of maple, is small. Of the sap 
 of the maple, sugar is made ; but its quality 
 
32 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 is not equal to that, produced from the real 
 maple. 
 
 Monday, 20. Bird Mountain. Here Mons. 
 Perigne' and others are building a fort. Yes- 
 terday and to day, our way has been through 
 prairies, interrupted occasionally, by small 
 groves of wood. Cranes and Pheasants are 
 to be seen in the prairies ; and to-day I have 
 also seen and fired at eight Elk, without 
 having killed any of them. They are about 
 the size of a cow, and of a light grey col- 
 our. The males, which have long branch- 
 ing horns, are animals of a noble and majes- 
 tick appearance. 
 
 Wednesday, 22. The Foot of a High Hill 
 and near a Small Lake. The waters of this 
 lake have a sulphureous taste. In the morn- 
 ing, we left Swan Eiver on our right, after 
 having crossed it on a raft, made by tying 
 several dry trees together. Since leaving 
 that river the country appears more hilly, 
 and almost destitute of timber of any kind. 
 Cranes and pheasants are to be seen, every 
 where. 
 
 Thursday, 23. Alexandria. We arrived 
 here in the afternoon; and I am happy to 
 find myself, at length, at the end of my 
 journey, and where I hope to pass a few 
 months, at least, in quietness. The fort is 
 built on a small rise of ground, on the bank 
 of the Assiniboine, or Upper Red River, that 
 separates it from a beautiful prairie, about 
 ten miles long, and from one to four broad, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 33 
 
 which is as level as the floor of a house. 
 At a little distance behind the fort, are small 
 groves of birch, poplar, aspin and pine. On 
 the whole, the scenery around it, is delightful. 
 The fort is sixteen rods in length, by twelve 
 in breadth; the houses, stores, &c., are well 
 built, are plaistered on the inside and out- 
 side, and are washed over with a white earth, 
 which answers nearly as well as lime, for 
 white washing. This earth is found, in cer- 
 tain places, in all parts of the country.— 
 Here horses are to be bought of the Natives 
 for a mere trifle. They are well built, strong, 
 and tolerably fleet. 
 
 This place lies in Latitude 52° north, 
 and in 103° west Longitude. Mr. McLeod 
 is now gone to fort Dauphine, on horse 
 back, which lies only four day's march from 
 this, over land ; yet it is nearly two months, 
 since I passed there in a canoe. 
 
 Tuesday, 28. Mr. McLeod and company 
 have just returned from fort Dauphine; and 
 I am happy in meeting him, after so long a 
 separation, and he appears to be pleased to 
 see me, safely here. Prom the time that I 
 was left at the Encampment Island until 
 now, I have had no person with whom I 
 could converse in English; and I am not 
 yet able to converse in French, though lean 
 read it tolerably well. 
 
 Sunday, November 9. On the 30th ultimo, 
 I set off, in company with four Canadians, 
 on horse back, for Swan Eiver fort. The 
 
S4 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 day we left this, it snowed and rained, which 
 caused us to pass a very disagreeable night, 
 as v*'e had nothing but our wet blankets 
 with which to cover ourselves. The people 
 went down for goods; and as there is no 
 person there who can read and write, I went 
 to deliver out such articles as we are in 
 immediate want of here. 
 
 Sunday, 16. The Indians who come to 
 this establishment are Crees and Assiniboins. 
 The principal part of the former, generally 
 remain in the woody part of the country, 
 and hunt the moose, elk, beaver, &c. and 
 the latter remain in the large prairies, and 
 hunt buffaloes, wolves, &c. Last Wednesday, 
 twelve families of Crees and Assiniboins 
 came from the large prairies, and let us 
 have furs and provisions. Both the men 
 and women have been drinking, ever since, 
 and their noise is very disagreeable; for 
 they talk, sing and cry, at the same time. — 
 Our men play at cards on the sabbath, the 
 same as on any other day. For such im- 
 proper conduct, I once reproved them; but 
 their reply was, there is no Sabbath in this 
 country, and, they added, no God nor devil ; 
 and their behaviour but too plainly shows, 
 that they spoke as they think. It is a lamen- 
 table fact, that those who have been for any 
 considerable time in this savage country, 
 lay aside a greater part of the regulations 
 of civilized and christian people, and behave 
 little better than the savages. It is true, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 35 
 
 we have it not at all times in our power, 
 to observe the sabbath as we ought, as the 
 Natives come to our establishment as often 
 on that day, as any other; and when they 
 do come, they must be attended to, and 
 their wants must be supplied. We are, also, 
 frequently under the necessity of travelling 
 on the Sabbath. But it is likewise true, 
 that, if we were rightly disposed, our minds 
 might, on this day, be almost wholly occupied 
 with divine things. I must, therefore, ac- 
 knowledge, that we have no reasonable ex- 
 cuse for violating the Sabbath, as we all do. 
 Wednesday, 19. Last night, there fell 
 about four inches of snow, which is the first 
 that we have had, this season.— Yesterday, 
 eight families of Crees came in. While drink- 
 ing, one of the women, who had a sharp 
 pointed knife about her, fell down, and drove 
 it nearly 'two inches into her side; but the 
 wound is not thought to be mortal. To see 
 a house full of drunken Indians, consisting 
 of men, women and children, is a most un- 
 pleasant sight ; for, in that condition, they 
 often wrangle, pull each other by the hair, 
 and fight. At some times, ten or twelve, of 
 both sexes, may be seen, fighting each other 
 promiscuously, until at last, they all fall 
 on the floor, one upon another, some spilling 
 rum out of a small kettle or dish, which 
 they hold in their hands, while others are 
 throwing up what they have just drunk. 
 To add to this uproar, a number of children, 
 
36 HAEMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 some on their mothers' shoulders, and others 
 running about and taking hold of their 
 clothes, are constantly bawling, the older 
 ones, through fear that their parents may 
 be stabbed, or that some other misfortune 
 may befal them, in the fray. These shrieks 
 of the children, form a very unpleasant 
 chorus to the brutal noise kept up by their 
 drunken parents, who are engaged in the 
 squabble. 
 
 Sunday, November 30. This, being St. An- 
 drew's day, which is a fete among the Scotch, 
 and our Bourgeois, Mr. McLeod, belonging 
 to that nation, the people of the fort, agree- 
 ably to the custom of the country, early in 
 the morning, presented him with a cross, 
 &c., and at the same time, a number of 
 others, who were at his door, discharged a 
 volley or two of muskets. Soon after, they 
 were invited into the hall, where they received 
 a reasonable dram, after which, Mr. McLeod 
 made them a present of a sufficiency of 
 spirits, to keep them merry during the re- 
 mainder of the day, which they drank at 
 their own house. In the evening, they were 
 invited to dance in the hall; and during it, 
 they received several flagons of spirits. They 
 behaved with considerable propriety, until 
 about eleven o'clock, when their heads had 
 become heated, by the great quantity of 
 spiritous liquor which they had drunk, during 
 the course of the day and evening. Some 
 of them became quarrelsome, as the Cana- 
 
HABMON'S JOURNAL. 37 
 
 dians generally are, when intoxicated, and 
 to high words, blows soon succeeded; and 
 finally, two battles were fought, which put 
 an end to this truly genteel, North Western 
 ball. 
 
 Tuesday, December 2. As yet, we have 
 only a few inches of snow. Yesterday morn- 
 ing, accompanied by six men on horse-back, 
 I went to the lodge or tent of one of our 
 hunters. The people went for meat, and I, 
 for the pleasure of riding, and seeing the 
 country. We arrived at the place where the 
 Indian was encamped, just as the sun was 
 sinking below the horizon, and when the 
 hunter was about to take a sweat, which 
 is frequently done in the following manner. 
 The women make a kind of hut, of bended 
 willows, which is nearly circular, and if for 
 one or two persons only, not more than 
 fifteen feet in circumference, and three or 
 four in height. Over these, they lay the 
 skins of the buff aloe, &c. and in the centre 
 of the hut, they place heated stones. The 
 Indian then enters, perfectly naked, with a 
 dish of water in his hand, a little of which, 
 he occasionally throws on the hot stones, 
 to create steam, which, in connexion with 
 the heat, puts him into a profuse perspira- 
 tion. In this situation he will remain, for 
 about an hour ; but a person unaccustomed 
 to endure such heat, could not sustain 
 it for half that time. They sweat themselves 
 in this manner, they say, in order that their 
 
as HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 limbs may become more supple, and they 
 more alert, in pursuing animals, which they 
 are desirous of killing. They, also, consider 
 sweating a powerful remedy, for the most 
 of diseases. As the}^ come from sweating, 
 they frequently plunge into a river, or rub 
 themselves over with snow. The country 
 we passed through, is largfe prairies, with 
 here and there a grove of small trees. This 
 evening we returned to the *ort; and the 
 horses of our people were loaded with the 
 flesh of the moose and elk. The buffaloes 
 are as yet a considerable distance farther, 
 out in the spacious prairies. Nothing but 
 severe cold weather will drive them into 
 the woody part of the country, to which 
 they will then come, in order to be less ex- 
 posed to the wii'd and weather, than they 
 would be, to remain in the open plains. 
 
 Sunday, 21. There is now about a foot of 
 snow on the ground; and, on the 11th in- 
 stant, I left this place, in company with 
 seven Canadians, for Swan River fort. Each 
 man had a sledge, drawn by two dogs, 
 loaded with one hundred and fifty pounds 
 weight of furs, besides provisions to serve 
 man and beast, to perform the trip. On our 
 return, the sledges were loaded with goods. 
 We reached our fort, this afternoon, where 
 I am happy to find Mr. Hugh McGillis, on 
 a visit from Red Deer River, and also, two 
 men with letters, from Fort des Prairies, or 
 Sisiscatchwin River. The former place, lies 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 39 
 
 about one hundred and fifty miles from this 
 and the latter, four or five hundred, in nearly 
 a north direction. 
 
 Wednesday, 24. Yesterday, I went to see 
 the fort of the Hudson Bay Company, which 
 is situated about nine miles down this river 
 and is in the charge of a Mr. Sutherland. 
 He has a woman of this country, for a wife, 
 who, I was pleased to find, could speak the 
 English language, tolerably well. I under- 
 stand, also, that she can both read and 
 write it, which she learned to do at Hudson's 
 Bay, where the Company have a school. 
 She speaks, likewise, the Cree and Sauteux 
 languages. She appears to possess natural 
 good sense, and is far from being deficient, 
 in acquired knowledge. 
 
 Friday, January 2, 1801. The weather, 
 for several days past, has been severely cold. 
 Yesterday, being the commencement of a new 
 year, our people, according to a Canadian 
 custom, which is to get drunk if possible, 
 spent the day in drinking, and danced in 
 the evening ; but there was neither scratching 
 nor fighting on this occasion. 
 
 Sunday, 4. In the morning, the greater 
 part of our people, consisting of men, women 
 and children, were sent away to pass the 
 remainder of the winter, about two days' 
 march from this, in the prairie. They will 
 subsist on the flesh of the buffaloe, which 
 they will themselves kill in abundance. Dur- 
 ing their stay there, they will reside in tents 
 
40 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 or lodges, made of the skins of the buffaloe, 
 moose or elk. These skins, after having 
 been dressed, are sewed together; and one 
 tent will contain from ten to twenty five 
 of them. These tents are erected on poles, 
 and assume the form of a sugar loaf. Ten 
 or fifteen persons will reside in one of them ; 
 for while there, they are either sitting or 
 lying down. 
 
 The Indians, who come to this establish- 
 ment, are, as has been already observed, 
 Crees and Assiniboins ; or as some call th6m, 
 Kinistinoes and Stone Indians. Both of them 
 are numerous tribes ; and as they often meet 
 and intermarry, their manners and customs 
 are similar; but there is no resemblance in 
 their languages. Both tribes are well fur- 
 nished with horses. The Assiniboins, how- 
 ever, are, by far, the best horsemen; they 
 never go any distance on foot, and it is 
 generally on horse back, that they kill their 
 game. 
 
 They mount their horses, and run down 
 and kill the buffaloe, and some other animals 
 with bows and arrows, which they find every 
 way as convenient for this purpose, as fire 
 arms. But the Crees, when they can procure 
 them, always make use of guns. Their cloth- 
 ing consists of leggins of cloth or dressed 
 Antelope skins, a shirt or frock of the same 
 materials, and a blanket or dressed Buffaloe 
 skin, which they wrap round their bodies, 
 and tie about their waists. To the above 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 41 
 
 they will often add a cap or bonnet, of the 
 wolf skin, and shoes for their feet. 
 
 Last evening, I wrote to two fellow travel- 
 lers with me from Montreal; and the letters 
 will be taken to them by the winter express, 
 which leaves this, tomorrow, and is to pass 
 by the way of Fort des Prairies, thence to 
 the English River, and thence directly to 
 Athabasca. And, I am informed, there is 
 an express, which every year leaves Atha- 
 basca, in the month of December, and passes 
 through the whole country called the North 
 West, and in the latter part of March, reaches 
 the Soult St. Maries. Thus the gentlemen 
 who come up from Montreal, obtain from 
 the interiour, intelligence respecting the trans- ' 
 actions of the preceding summer and fall 
 much earlier than they could otherwise do. 
 This information, it is important that they 
 receive, as soon as possible. This convey- 
 ance of intelligence, extending to the dis- 
 tance of nearly three thousand miles, is at- 
 tended with but a trifling expense to the 
 Company. 
 
 . Thursday, 15. Beautiful weather. On the 
 eleventh, I accompanied six of our people to 
 the tent of one of our hunters ; and the day 
 following, they returned with their sledges 
 loaded with meat; but I remained, to go 
 along with the hunter, farther in the prairie. 
 Accordingly, the next day, I proceeded with 
 him, and saw, in different herds, at least a 
 thousand buffaloes, grazing. They would 
 
42 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 allow us to come within a few rods of them 
 before they would leave their places. At 
 this season, they are tame, and it is not 
 at all dangerous to go among them. But, 
 in the fore part of the summer, which is 
 their rutting season, it is quite the reverse. 
 Then, if they perceive a human being, the 
 males will pursue him, and if they can over- 
 take, will trample him under their feet, or 
 pierce their horns through his body. 
 
 The male buff aloe, when fat, will weigh 
 from one thousand, to fifteen hundred pounds, 
 and the female, from eight hundred, to a 
 thousand. Their meat is excellent eating; 
 but is not generally considered so dehcious, 
 as that of the moose. 
 
 Wednesday, February 11. On the 1st 
 inst. accompanied by eight of our people, 
 and one of the Natives as a guide, I set 
 off, with a small assortment of goods, to 
 go and trade with about fifty families of 
 Crees and Assiniboins. In going to their 
 camp or village, we were three days, and at 
 all times, in an open country. After we 
 had encamped the first night, there came on 
 a terrible storm of snow, accompanied by 
 a strong and cold north wind; and as we 
 were in an open plain, we had nothing to 
 shelter us from the violence of the weather. 
 In the morning, we were covered with snow, 
 a foot in depth. Our people, however, soon 
 harnessed the dogs; and we proceeded, hop- 
 ing to warm ourselves, by running. This 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 43 
 
 we found it difficult to do, as the wind was 
 strong, and directly in our faces. At the 
 close of the day, after we had encamped, our 
 guide killed a fat buffaloe, which supplied 
 food, both to men and beasts. While eating 
 it around a large fire, we almost forgot the 
 suffering which we endured, by the cold of 
 the preceding night and morning; and, if 
 we were not thankful for the blessing be- 
 stowed upon us, we were, at least, glad to 
 enjoy it. After having passed one or two 
 cold days without eating, there is a relish 
 in food to which the sons of indolence and 
 of pleasure, are perfect strangers ; and which 
 they can purchase only, at the expense of 
 toil and hardship. 
 
 When we had approached within about a 
 mile of the camp of the Natives, ten or 
 twelve of their Chiefs, or most respectable 
 men among them, came on horseback, to 
 meet, and conduct us to their dwellings. 
 We arrived at them, through a crowd of 
 people, who hailed us with a shout of joy. 
 Immediately after our arrival, the principal 
 Chief of the village sent his son, to invite 
 me and my interpreter to his tent. As soon 
 as we had entered it, and were seated, the 
 respectable old Chief caused meat and berries, 
 and the best of everything which he had, to 
 be set before us. Before we had eaten much, 
 we were sent for to another tent, where we 
 received a similar treatment ; and from this, 
 we were invited to another; and so on, till 
 
44 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 we had been to more than half a dozen. 
 At all these, we ate a little, and smoked our 
 pipes ; for, my interpreter informed me, they 
 would be greatly affronted, and think that 
 we despised them, if we refused to taste of 
 every thing which was set before ns. Hospi- 
 tality to strangers, is among the Indian 
 virtues. — During several days that we re- 
 mained with these people, we were treated 
 with more real politeness, than is commonly 
 shown to strangers, in the civilized part of 
 the world. 
 
 While I was at the camp of the Natives, I 
 was invited to attend and see them dance. 
 The dancers were about thirty in number, 
 and were all clothed with the skins of the 
 Antelope, dressed, which were nearly as white 
 as snow ; and upon their heads they sprinkled 
 a white earth, which gave them a very gen- 
 teel appearance. Their dance was conducted 
 in the following manner. A man, nearly 
 forty years of age, rose with his tomahawk 
 in his hand, and made, with a very distinct 
 voice, a long harangue. He recounted all 
 the noble exploits which he had achieved, 
 in the several war-parties with which he had 
 engaged his enemies; and he made mention 
 of two persons, in particular, whom he first 
 killed, and then took off their scalps; and 
 for each of these, he gave a blow with his 
 tomahawk against a post, which was set up, 
 expressly for that purpose, near the center 
 of the tent. And now the musick began, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 45 
 
 which consisted of tambourines, and the 
 shaking of bells, accompanied by singing. 
 Soon after, the man who had made the 
 harangue, began the dance, with great maj- 
 esty; then another arose, and joined him; 
 and shortly after, another; and so on, one 
 after another, until there were twelve or 
 fifteen up, who all danced around a small 
 fire, that was in the centre of the tent. While 
 dancing, they made many savage gestures 
 and shrieks, such as they are in the habit 
 of making, when they encounter their en- 
 emies. In this course, they continued, for 
 nearly an hour, when they took their seats, 
 and another party got up, and went through 
 with the same ceremonies. Their dancing 
 and singing, however, appeared, to be a 
 succession of the same things; and there- 
 fore after having remained with them two 
 or three hours, I returned to my lodgings; 
 and how long they continued their amuse- 
 ment, I cannot say. 
 
 In this excursion, we saw buffaloes in 
 abundance; and when on a small rise of 
 ground, I think I may with truth afiirm, 
 that there were in view, gazing on the sur- 
 rounding plains, at least five thousand of 
 them. Of these animals, we killed what we 
 wanted for our own subsistence, and the 
 support of our dogs; and this evening, we 
 returned to the fort, well pleased with our 
 jaunt, loaded with furs and provisions, and 
 without having received the least affront or 
 
46 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 the smallest injury from the Natives, not- 
 withstanding most of them became intoxi- 
 cated with the spirits, with which we sup- 
 plied them. 
 
 Tuesday, February 17. We have now 
 about a foot and a half of snow on the 
 ground. — Mr. Monteur, accompanied by two 
 Canadians, arrived, with letters from our 
 friends, in Fort des Prairies. — This morning, 
 one of our people killed a buffaloe in the 
 Prairie, opposite to the fort; and another 
 came within ten rods of the fort gate, when 
 the dogs pursued him, and he ran off. 
 
 Thursday, 19. This day, I am twenty 
 three years of age, and how rapidly does 
 this space of time appear to have passed 
 away ! It seems as if it were but yesterday, 
 that I was a child. The truth is, the time 
 that we are allowed to remain in this fleet- 
 ing world is so short, even if we should be 
 permitted to reach the utmost boundary of 
 human life, that a person can scarcely have 
 passed the threshold of existence, before he 
 must set his house in order to die. 
 
 Friday, 20. During the last night, we sat 
 up to deal out spirits to the Indians. One 
 of them has his own daughter for a wife, and 
 her mother at the same time ! Incest, how- 
 ever, is a crime, of which the Indians of this 
 quarter are not often guilty. "VMien one of 
 them does commit it, he is regarded by the 
 rest of his tribe, as void of sense. 
 
 Saturday, March 14. The greater part of 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 47 
 
 the snow is now dissolved. On the sixth 
 inst. accompanied by eighteen of our people, 
 I left this, to go to Swan River fort. We 
 had thirty sledges, some drawn by horses, 
 and some by dogs, which were loaded with 
 furs and provisions. 
 
 Saturday, April 4. Swan River Fort. Here 
 I arrived this afternoon, and have come to 
 pass the remainder of the spring. While at 
 Alexandria, my time passed agreeably in 
 company with A. N. McLeod, Esq. who is a 
 sensible man, and an agreeable companion. 
 He appeared desirous of instructing me in 
 what was most necessary to be known, 
 respecting the affairs of this country; and 
 a taste for reading I owe, in a considerable 
 degree, to the influence of his example. 
 These, with many other favours, which he 
 was pleased to show me, I shall ever hold 
 in grateful remembrance.— -But now I am 
 comparatively alone, there being no person 
 here, able to speak a word of English; and 
 as I have not been much in the company 
 of those who speak the French language, I 
 do not as yet, understand it very well. Hap- 
 pily for me, I have a few books ; and in pe- 
 rusing them, I shall pass most of my leisure 
 moments. 
 
 Monday, 6. I have taken a ride on horse- 
 back, to a place where our people are making 
 sugar. My path led me over a small prairie, 
 and through a wood, where I saw a great 
 variety of birds, that were straining their 
 
48 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 tuneful throats, as if to welcome the return 
 of another spring; small animals, also, were 
 running about, or skipping • from tree to 
 tree, and at the same time, were to be seen 
 swans, bustards, ducks, &c. swimming about 
 in the river and ponds. All these things 
 together, rendered my ramble beyond ex- 
 pression delightful. 
 
 Friday, 10. Fine pleasant weather. This 
 afternoon, I took a solitary, yet pleasing 
 walk, to the ruins of a fort, which was aban- 
 doned, a few years since, by the Hudson Bay 
 people, to whom it belonged, but who do not 
 now come into this part of the country. 
 While surveying these ruins, I could not 
 avoid reflecting on the short duration of 
 every thing in this fleeting and perishing 
 world. I then went to a spot, where a num- 
 ber of their people had been interred, far 
 from their native country, their friends and 
 relations ! And while I was lamenting their 
 sad fate, my blood chilled at the thought, 
 that what had happened to them might, 
 very probably, befal me also. But my prayer 
 shall ever be, that a merciful God will, in 
 due time, restore me to my friends and re- 
 lations, in good health, and with an un- 
 blemished character. 
 
 Sunday, 19. On Friday last, there fell 
 nearly a foot of snow, which, however, was 
 soon dissolved; and it caused the river to 
 overflow its banks to such a distance, that 
 our people who were making sugar, were 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 49 
 
 obliged to leave the woods and return to 
 the fort. 
 
 Tuesday, 21. All the snow has left us; 
 and we are again favoured with fine weather. 
 The last night, the ice in this river broke 
 up. 
 
 Monday, 27. It has snowed all day, and 
 has fallen to the depth of six inches.— I now 
 begin to feel the want of books, having 
 brought but few with me, on account of the 
 short time that I expect to remain here. 
 
 Saturday, May 2. It has rained all day, 
 which is the first time that any has fallen, 
 since the last autumn.— As I have but little 
 business that requires my attention, I em- 
 ploy the greater part of my time in reading 
 the Bible, and in studying the French lan- 
 guage. 
 
 Sunday, 10. It has rained constantly, dur- 
 ing three successive days, which has caused 
 the water in the river, since yesterday, to 
 rise more than four feet.— Yesterday, one of 
 my men went out to shoot ducks, and lost 
 his way, and was therefore under the neces- 
 sity of passing the night in the woods, with- 
 out any covering from the cold and the rain, 
 which poured down in torrents. This morn- 
 ing, however, by chance, or rather directed 
 by an all protecting Providence, he fell upon 
 a small foot path, which brought him di- 
 rectly to the fort, where he was not a little 
 pleased to arrive. Experience only can 
 teach us how to value such a deliverance. 
 
50 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Wednesday, 13. The late rains have caused 
 this river to overflow its banks to such an 
 uncommon distance, that when I arose this 
 morning, to my surprise, I found seven inches 
 of water, on the first floor of the house, 
 which is an event that the oldest person here 
 does not remember before to have witnessed. 
 We are obliged to leave the fort, and to 
 pitch our tents on a small rise of gTOund, 
 at no great distance off, where we shall re- 
 main until the deluge is abated. 
 
 Friday, 15. Sent five men with a canoe, 
 two days march up this river, for Mr. Mc- 
 Leod and company, as the face of the coun- 
 try extensively lies under water. 
 
 Wednesday, 20. The water has left the 
 fort ; and with pleasure, we leave our tents, 
 to occupy our former dwellings. This after- 
 noon Mr. McLeod, and company, arrived, 
 and are thus far on their way to the Grand 
 Portage. 
 
 Tuesday, 26. Yesterday, our people fin- 
 ished making our furs into packs, of ninety 
 pounds weight each. Two or three of these 
 make a load for a man, to carry across the 
 portages. This morning, all the hands, des- 
 tined to this service, embarked on board of 
 five canoes, for Head-quarters. To Mr. Mc- 
 Leod, I delivered a packet of letters, to be 
 forwarded to my friends, who reside at Ver- 
 gennes, in the state of Vermont, and tomor- 
 row, I shall set out for Alexandria, where I 
 expect to pass the ensuing summer, and to 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 51 
 
 superintend the affairs of that place and of 
 this, until the next autumn. 
 
 Monday, June 1. Accompanied by two 
 men, I arrived at Alexandria, this afternoon ; 
 and I here found six families of Crees, en- 
 camped about the fort. I have with me one 
 clerk, two interpreters and five labouring 
 m^en, also six women and thirteen children, 
 belonging to our people, and a number of 
 women and children belonging to the Na- 
 tives, whose husbands have gone to make 
 war upon the Rapid Indians, or as they call 
 themselves, Paw-is-tick I-e-ne-wuck. This is 
 a small but brave tribe, who remain a con- 
 siderable distance out in the large prairies, 
 and toward the upper part of the Missouri 
 river. We shall have nearly one hundred 
 mouths to fill, for the greater part of the 
 summer, out of our store ; but to furnish the 
 means, we have hired two of the Natives to 
 hunt for us, during the season; and moose, 
 elk, &c. are considerably numerous in this 
 vicinity. We hope, therefore, that we shall 
 not want for the means of subsistence. Buf- 
 faloes have now returned several days' march 
 from this place, into the spacious prairies; 
 but this is no serious loss to us, since, if 
 they were near they would be but indifferent 
 food, as at this season of the year, they are 
 always lean, and consequently, rank and 
 tough. 
 
 Wednesday, 10. It is currently reported 
 and believed, that the Rapid Indians are 
 
52 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 forming a war-party, in order to come 
 against the Indians of this quarter, whom 
 they consider, and I think with sufficient 
 reason, as their enemies. Should they come 
 this way, they will as probably fall upon us 
 as upon the Natives themselves ; for they say 
 that we furnish the Crees and Assiniboins 
 with what fire arms they want, while they 
 get but few. I have, therefore, thought it 
 expedient to direct our people, to build 
 block-houses over the fort gates, and to put 
 the bastions in order, that we may be pre- 
 pared to defend ourselves, in case of an 
 attack. 
 
 Sunday, 14. This afternoon, a number 
 of the Natives danced in the fort. Their 
 dance was conducted in the following man- 
 ner. Two stakes were driven into the ground, 
 about twenty feet apart; and as one per- 
 son beat the drum, the others, consisting of 
 men and women, danced round these stakes. 
 The men had a different step from that of 
 the women. The latter placed both feet to- 
 gether, and first moved their heels forward 
 and then their toes, and thus went twice 
 round the stakes. But the men rather hopped 
 than danced, and therefore went twice round 
 the stakes, while the women went once. 
 They all kept exact time with the music, for 
 they have excellent ears. Indeed, I believe 
 that all their senses are more acute than 
 those of the white people. 
 
 Thursday, July 9. This day, there came 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 53 
 
 here an American, that, when a small child, 
 was taken from his parents, who then re- 
 sided in the Illinois country. He was kid- 
 napped by the Sauteux, with whom he has 
 resided ever since; and he speaks no other 
 language excepting theirs. He is now about 
 twenty years of age, and is regarded as a 
 chief among that tribe. He dislikes to hear 
 people speak to him, respecting his white 
 relations ; and in every respect excepting his 
 colour, he resembles the savages, with whom 
 he resides. He is said to be an excellent 
 hunter. He remains with an old woman 
 who, soon after he was taken from his re- 
 lations adopted him into her family; and 
 they appear to be mutually as fond of each 
 other, as if they were actually mother and 
 son. 
 
 Thursday, 30. Different kinds of berries 
 are now ripe, such as strawberries, raspber- 
 ries, and what the Canadians call paires, 
 which the Natives denominate Mi-sas-qui-to- 
 min-uck. The last, if they are not the same 
 in kind, exactly resemble, in shape and taste, 
 what in the New England states are called 
 shad berries. When they are found in the 
 prairies, they grow on bushes, four or five 
 feet high ; but in a thick wood they often 
 reach to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. 
 Of this wood, the Natives always make their 
 arrows. These berries, when properly dried 
 by the sun, have an agreeable taste, and are 
 excellent to mix with pimican. The Natives 
 
54 HARMONS JOURNAL. 
 
 generally boil them in the broth of fat meat ; 
 and this constitutes one of their most dainty 
 dishes, and is introduced at all their feasts. 
 
 Mr. A. X. McLeod has a son here named 
 Alexander, who is nearly fire years of age, 
 and whose Mother is of the tribe of the 
 Rapid Indians. In my leisure time, I am 
 teaching him the rudiments of the English 
 language. The boy speaks the Sauteux and 
 Cree fluently, for a child; and makes him- 
 self understood tolerably well, in the Assini- 
 boin and French languages. In short, he is 
 like most of the children of this country, 
 blessed with a retentive memory, and learns 
 very readily. 
 
 We have made about ten tons of hay, to 
 feed those of our horses which we intend 
 shall work, during the winter season. The 
 others live the whole year, upon the gTass 
 which they find in the prairies. In the win- 
 ter, to procure it, they must scrape away, 
 with their feet, the snow, which is generally 
 eighteen inches deep, excepting on the highest 
 hills, from which the wind drives most of it 
 into the vaUeys. 
 
 Thursday, August 27. All the provision 
 which we now have in the fort, consists of 
 only about fifteen pounds of pimican; and 
 when we shall be able to add to our supply, 
 God only knows. All our dependence is on 
 our hunters; and it is now a considerable 
 time since they have killed anything, though 
 moose and elk are numerous in the vicinity. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 55 
 
 Sunday, 30. Yesterday, three of our peo- 
 ple arrived from the Grand Portage, with 
 letters from Mr. McLeod, &c., which inform 
 me, that the above mentioned people, to- 
 gether with others who remained at Swan 
 River fort, were sent off from head quarters, 
 earlier than usual, with an assortment of 
 goods, supposing, that we might need some 
 articles, before the main brigade arrives. 
 
 Sunday, September 6. This is the third 
 day, during which it has rained, without the 
 least cessation.— There are five families of 
 Crees, encamped about the fort, who have 
 been continually drunk, during the last forty 
 eight hours ; but now they begin to be troub- 
 lesome, for they have nothing more to sell, 
 yet they wish to continue drinking. 
 
 One of the Indians who was of the party 
 that last spring went to war, has recently 
 come in. When he arrived, his face was 
 painted entirely black, which I am informed, 
 is always their custom, when they return 
 from such expeditions. As he drew nigh to 
 the fort, he began to sing a war song. He 
 states, that his party, the Crees and As- 
 siniboins, have made great slaughter among , 
 their enemies, the Rapid Indians, and are 
 bringing a number of their women and chil- 
 dren home for slaves. He was sent for- 
 ward, as he says, to inform us of what they 
 consider glorious news. 
 
 Monday, 7. More of the Indians, who 
 have been to war, have reached this place, 
 
56 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 and have brought several slaves, and a few 
 scalps, with them. This afternoon, thej 
 danced and sung their war songs. Agreeably 
 to the custom of the country, I gave them 
 a few trifling articles, not as a reward for 
 having been to war, but because they have 
 done us honour, as they think, by dancing in 
 our fort. 
 
 Sunday, 27. It has snowed and rained all 
 day. This afternoon, Mr. McLeod and com- 
 pany, returned from the Grand Portage, and 
 delivered to me letters from my friends in my 
 natiye land; and I am happy in being in- 
 formed, that they left them blessed with 
 good health. Self -banished, as I am, in this 
 dreary country, and at such a distance from 
 all I hold dear in this world, nothing beside, 
 could give me half the satisfaction, which 
 this intelligence affords. I also received sev- 
 eral letters from gentlemen in different parts 
 of the widely extended North West Country. 
 
 Friday, October 2. Montague Aiseau, or 
 the Bird Mountain. In the morning, I left 
 Alexandria, on horse back, and arrived here 
 this, evening where, by permission of Provi- 
 dence, I shall pass the ensuing year. I have 
 with me three interpreters, six labouring men 
 and two women. The fort is built on the 
 bank of Swan River, a little more than fifty 
 miles distant from its entrance into Swan 
 Lake. The Indians who frequent this estab- 
 lishment are Sauteux, Crees and Mus-ca- 
 goes, all of whom speak nearly the same 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 57 
 
 language. Moose and elk are considerably 
 numerous, in this vicinity; but buffaloes 
 seldom come thus far, into the woody coun- 
 try. 
 
 Thursday, 29. On the 22nd instant, Mr. 
 McLeod, with ten of his people, arrived on 
 horseback; and on the day following, I ac- 
 companied them to the lower fort, where I 
 met Mr. William Henry, a clerk. Mr. McLeod 
 has also brought another clerk into this 
 country, by the name of Frederick Goedike. 
 This evening, Messrs. McLeod, Henry and 
 myself returned, but left the people behind, 
 whose horses are loaded with goods, for 
 this place and Alexandria. 
 
 Tuesday, November 3. Snow has fallen 
 to the depth of three inches, which is the 
 first that we have had, this fall. 
 
 Thursday, 19. A foot and a half of snow 
 has fallen. 
 
 Wednesday, December 23. Clear and cold. 
 On the 16th inst. I went to Alexandria, 
 where I passed several days agreeably, in the 
 company of Messrs. McLeod, Henry, and 
 Goedike. We have now more snow than we 
 had at any time the last winter. In con- 
 sequence of lameness, I returned on a sledge 
 drawn by dogs. 
 
 Friday, 25. This being Christmas day, 
 agreeably to the custom of the country, I 
 gave our people a dram, and a pint of spirits 
 each. 
 
 Monday, 28. Payet, one of my inter- 
 
58 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 preters, has taken one of the daughters of 
 the Natives for a wife; and to her parents, 
 he gave in rum, dry goods, &c. to the value 
 of two hundred dollars. No ceremonies at- 
 tend the formation of such connexions, as I 
 have before remarked, excepting that the 
 bridegroom, at the time to retire to rest, 
 shows his bride where their common lodging 
 place is; and they continue to cohabit, as 
 long as both parties choose, but no longer. 
 One thing is secured by this arrangement, 
 which is by no means always found in the 
 civilized world, and that is, while persons 
 live together, in a state of wedlock, they will 
 live in harmony. 
 
 Friday, January 1, 1802. This being 
 the first day of the year, in the morning, I 
 gave the people a dram or two, and a pint 
 of rum each, to drink in the course of the 
 day, which enabled them to pass it merrily, 
 although they had very little to eat ; for our 
 hunters say they can kill nothing. One of 
 them will not go out of his tent ; for he 
 imagines, that the Bad Spirit, as they call 
 the devil, is watching an opportunity to 
 find him in the open air, in order to devour 
 him. WTiat will not imagination do ! 
 
 Saturday, 9. Several days since, I sent a 
 number of my people to Alexandria for meat, 
 as neither of my hunters kill any thing; 
 though there is no scarcity of animals in 
 this vicinity. But they have just returned, 
 without any thing. They say that the buff a- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 59 
 
 loes, in consequence of the late mild weather, 
 have gone a considerable distance, into the 
 large prairie. We are therefore under the 
 necessity of subsisting on pounded meat, and 
 dried chokecherries. This latter article, is 
 little better than nothing. When we shall 
 be in a better situation, God only knows. 
 Hope, however, which seldom abandons the 
 wretched, denies us not her comforting aid ; 
 and past experience teaches us, that it is 
 possible our circumstances may suddenly 
 change for a better. 
 
 Sunday, 17. Last evening, our people 
 brought from the tent of the hunter, the 
 meat of a moose, which hghted up a smile 
 of Joy upon our countenances. We were 
 happy to find, that a kind Providence, in- 
 stead of abandoning, had favoured us with 
 one of the richest dainties, that this coun- 
 try affords. It would be well if our joy was 
 true gratitude to our kind Benefactor.— 
 There are twelve persons in the fort; and 
 yet for the last fifteen days, we have sub- 
 sisted on what was scarcely sufficient for two 
 people! These were certainly the darkest 
 days that I ever experienced, in this or any 
 other country. 
 
 Tuesday, 19. I have taken a walk, ac- 
 companied by Pa^^et, a short distance from 
 the fort, where we found hazelnuts, still on 
 the bushes, in such plenty, that a person may 
 easily gather a bushel in the course of a day. 
 I am told, that when sheltered from the wind, 
 
60 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 all of them do not fall off, until the month 
 of May. 
 
 Monday, February 1. For several days 
 past, the weather has been excessively cold; 
 and this has been, I think, the coldest day 
 that I ever experienced. In factj the weather 
 is so severe, that our hunters dare not ven- 
 ture out of their tents, although they, as 
 well as ourselves, have little to eat. 
 
 Sunday, 7. During the last three days, we 
 have subsisted on tallow and dried cherries. 
 This evening, my men returned from Alex- 
 andria, with their sledges loaded with buffaloe 
 meat ; and the sight of it, was truly reviving. 
 Had this favour been withheld from us a 
 few days longer, we must have all miserably 
 perished by famine. 
 
 Monday, 8, All the Indians of this place, 
 excepting my hunters, have gone to pass 
 about a couple of months, as they are ac- 
 customed to do, at this season, on their be- 
 loved food, the buffaloe. 
 
 Friday, 19. At present, thanks to the 
 Giver of all good, we have a pretty good 
 stock of provisions in store, and there fore 
 expect not to want, this season. 
 
 Saturday, March 6. I have just returned 
 from a visit to my friends at Alexandria, 
 where I passed four days very pleasantly, in 
 conversing in my mother tongue. This is a 
 satisfaction that no one knows, excepting 
 those, who have been situated as I am, 
 with a people with whom I cannot speak 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 61 
 
 fluently. And if I could, it would afford me 
 little satisfaction to converse with the igno- 
 rant Canadians around me. All their chat 
 is about horses, dogs, canoes, women and 
 strong men, who can fight a good battle. 
 I have, therefore, only one way left to pass 
 my time rationally, and that is reading. 
 Happily for me I have a collection of good 
 books ; and mine will be the fault if I do not 
 derive profit from them. I, also, begin to 
 find pleasure in the study of French. 
 
 Saturday, 20. The greater number of our 
 Indians have returned from the prairies; 
 and as they have brought little with them 
 to trade, I, of course, give them as little; 
 for we are at too great a distance from the 
 civilized world, to make many gratuities. 
 Yet the Indians were of a different opinion; 
 and at first made use of some unpleasant 
 language. But we did not come to blows, 
 and are now preparing to retire to rest, 
 nearly as good friends as the Indians and 
 traders generally are. With a few exceptions, 
 that friendship is little more, than their 
 fondness for our property, and our eager- 
 ness to obtain their furs. 
 
 Wednesday, April 21. The most of the snow 
 is now dissolved; and this afternoon the ice 
 in the river broke up.— All our Indians, who 
 for several days past encamped near the 
 fort, have now departed, to hunt the beaver. 
 While they were here, they made a feast, at 
 which they danced, cried, sung and howled, 
 
62 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 and in a word, made a terrible, savage noise. 
 Such feasts, the Crees are accustomed to 
 make, at the return of every spring; and 
 sometimes also at other seasons of the year. 
 By so doing, they say they appease the an- 
 ger of the Evil Spirit or devil, and thus 
 prevent him from doing them harm, to 
 which they consider him as ever inclined. 
 They have, also, certain places, where they 
 deposit a part of their property, such as 
 guns, kettles, bows, arrows, &c. as a sacri- 
 fice to the same Spirit. To the Supreme 
 Being, however, the creator and governor of 
 the universe, whom they call Kitch-e-mon-e- 
 too, that is. Great Spirit, they address their 
 prayers; yet they say there is no necessity 
 of paying him any sacrifice, since he is a 
 good Spirit, and is not disposed to do them 
 injury; whereas the Evil Spirit is malicious, 
 and therefore, it is proper that they should 
 strive to appease his anger.— The above 
 mentioned feast was made by the Chief of 
 the band, whose name is Ka-she-we-ske-wate, 
 who for the long space of forty eight hours, 
 previous to the entertainment, neither ate 
 nor drank any thing. At the commencement 
 of the feast, every person put on a grave 
 countenance; and the Chief went through 
 a number of ceremonies, with the utmost 
 solemnity. After the entertainment was over, 
 every Indian made a voluntary sacrifice of 
 a part of his property to the devil, or as 
 they call him, Much-e-mon-e-too. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 63 
 
 Sunday, May 2. Accompanied by one of 
 my interpreters, I have taken a ride to a 
 place where I intend building a fort, the 
 ensuing summer. The animals in this vicin- 
 ity are moose, red deer, a species of the 
 antelope, grey, black, brown, chocolate col- 
 oured and yellowish bears, two species of 
 wolves, wolverines, polecats or skunks, lynxes, 
 kitts, beavers, otters, fishers, martins, minks, 
 badgers, muskrats and black, silver, cross 
 and red foxes. Of fowls, we have swans, 
 geese, bustards, cranes, cormorants, loons, 
 snipes, several species of ducks, water-hens, 
 pigeons, partridges, pheasants, &c. &c. Most 
 of the above named fowls, are numerous in 
 spring and autumn; but, excepting a few, 
 they retire to the north in the summer, to 
 brood. Toward the fall, they return again ; 
 and before winter sets in, they go to the 
 southward, where they remain, during a few 
 of the coldest months of the year. 
 
 Thursday, 6. This morning, I received a 
 letter from Mr. McLeod, who is at Alexan- 
 dria, informing me, that a few nights since, 
 the Assiniboins, who are noted thieves, ran 
 away with twenty two of his horses. Many 
 of this tribe, who reside in the large prairies, 
 are constantly going about to steal horses. 
 Those which they find at one fort, they will 
 take and sell to the people of another fort. 
 Indeed, they steal horses, not unfrequently, 
 from their own relations. 
 
 Wednesday, 12. It has snowed and rained, 
 
64 . HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 during the day. — On the 7th inst. I went to 
 Alexandria, to transact business with Mr. 
 McLeod. During- this jaunt, it rained almost 
 constantly; and on my return, in crossing 
 this riyer, I drowned my horse, which cost 
 last fall, one hundred dollars in goods, as 
 we yalue them here. 
 
 Monday, 17. This afternoon, Mr. McLeod 
 and company passed this place, and are on 
 their way to the Grand Portage. But I am 
 to pass, if Proyidence permit, another sum- 
 mer in the interiour, and to haye the su- 
 perintendence of the lower fort, this place 
 and Alexandria, residing chiefly at the latter 
 place. 
 
 Tuesday, 18. All the Indians belonging 
 to this place, haye now come in with the 
 produce of their hunts, which is abundant ; 
 and to reward them for their industry, I 
 clothed two of their Chiefs, and gaye a cer- 
 tain quantity of spirits to them, and to the 
 others. With this they became intoxicated, 
 and continued so during the last night, which 
 preyented our closing our eyes in sleep; for 
 it is at all times necessary to watch the 
 motions of the Indians, and especially is this 
 the case, when reason has been dethroned, 
 and passion has assumed the sole dominion 
 oyer them, through the influence of ardent 
 spirits. While in that condition, they, hke 
 other people, often do things which they 
 will regret in their sober moments. 
 
 Sunday, 23. It has snowed all day; and 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 65 
 
 about six inches have fallen. I am waiting 
 the arrival of Mr. Henry to take charge of 
 this post, when I shall proceed to Alexan- 
 dria. Two women brought me a few hazel- 
 nuts, which they this day gathered from the 
 bushes. 
 
 Monday, 31. Alexandria. Here, accom- 
 panied by two of my people, I arrived this 
 afternoon. In crossing Swan River, I was so 
 unfortunate as to drown another horse; 
 and I was therefore obliged to perform the 
 remainder of the journey on foot, with noth- 
 ing to eat. Here, thanks to the Bestower 
 of all good, I find a tolerable stock of pro- 
 visions. Mr. Goedike is to pass the summer 
 with me, also two interpreters, and three 
 labouring men, besides several women and 
 children, who together, form a snug family. 
 
 Wednesday, June 23. On the 16th inst. 
 accompanied by two of my people, I set off 
 for Swan River fort, on horseback. The 
 first night, we slept at Bird Mountain; and 
 the day following we arrived at the lower 
 fort. From that place, I returned in one 
 day, which is a distance of ninety miles. I, 
 however, took a fresh horse at the Bird 
 Mountain. One of my people, who travelled 
 less rapidly, has arrived this evening, and 
 informed me, that he drowned his horse, at 
 the same place where I had before drowned 
 two. 
 
 On my return here, those in whose charge 
 I had left the place, had nothing to offer me 
 5 
 
66 . HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 to eat, excepting boiled parchment skiiis, 
 which are httle better than nothing, and 
 scarcely deserve the name of food. I have 
 therefore sent a part of my people, to en- 
 deavour to take some fish out of a small 
 lake, called by the NatiA^es Devil's Lake, 
 which lies about ten miles north from this. 
 If they should not succeed, and our hunters 
 should not be more fortunate than they 
 have been for some time past, I know not 
 what will become of us. All our dependence 
 is on a kind Providence; and we cannot 
 but hope for a speedy relief, from our truly 
 sad condition. 
 
 Friday, July 2. For six days, after I 
 sent the people to fish in the above men- 
 tioned lake, we subsisted at the fort on 
 parchment skins, dogs, herbs and a few small 
 fish, that we took out of the river opposite 
 to the fort. But now, we obtain fish in 
 greater plenty. 
 
 One of our hunters has been in, and told 
 me what he thought to be the cause why 
 he could not kill. He said that when he 
 went to hunt, he generally soon fell upon 
 the track of some animal, which he followed ; 
 but that, as soon as he came nigh to him, 
 he heard the terrible voice of the Evil Spirit, 
 that frightened both himself and the animal. 
 The animal would of course run off, and the 
 pursuit would end.— I told the hunter, that 
 I had a certain powerful medicine; and pro- 
 vided he would do with it as I would direct 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 67 
 
 him, it would not only frighten the Evil 
 Spirit in his turn, but would also render 
 him at first speechless, and that shortly 
 after it would cause him to die. I then took 
 several drugs and mixed them together, 
 that he might not know what they were, 
 which I wrapped in a piece of white paper, 
 and tied to the but-end of his gun, and thus 
 armed him to encounter great or little devils ; 
 for they believe in the existence of different 
 orders. I told him to go in search of a 
 moose or deer; and as soon as he should 
 hear the voice of the Evil Spirit, to throw 
 the paper tied to his gun behind him into 
 the air, and that it would fall into the mouth 
 of the Evil Spirit pursuing him, and silence 
 and destroy him. I warned him not to look 
 behind him, lest he should be too much 
 frightened at the sight of so monstrous a 
 creature, but to pursue the animal, which 
 he would undoubtedly kill. 
 
 The same day, the Indian went to hunt- 
 ing, and fell upon the track of an animal, 
 which he followed, as he has since told me, 
 but a short distance, before the Evil Spirit, 
 as his custom was, began to make horrid 
 cries. The Indian, however, did with the 
 medicine as I had directed him, and heard 
 no more of the frightful voice, but continued 
 following the animal until, approaching him, 
 he fired, and killed a fine fat red deer; and 
 he has since killed several others. Not only 
 he, but the other Indians place, from this 
 
68 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 circumstance, perfect confidence in my medi- 
 cines. What will not imagination, aided by 
 great superstition, make a person believe ! 
 it may be caused, however, at times, to re- 
 move the evils of its own creation. 
 
 Sunday, 4. Mr. William Henry and com- 
 pany arrived from the Bird Mountain, and 
 inform us, that they are destitute of pro- 
 vision there. They will, therefore, come and 
 pass the remainder of the summer with us; 
 for we now have provisions in plenty. 
 
 Monday, 17. In consequence of the great 
 increase of our family of late, we are again 
 poorly supplied with provisions. In order, if 
 possible, to obtain a supply, I have sent 
 seven of my people several different ways, in 
 search of the Natives, who will be able to 
 relieve our wants, should our men chance to 
 find them. For this is the season of the 
 year, when almost all wild animals are the 
 fattest ; and therefore, it is the best time to 
 kill them, and make them into dry pro- 
 visions. 
 
 Friday, 23. There are at present, in this 
 vicinity, grass-hoppers, in such prodigious 
 numbers, as I never before saw in any place. 
 In fair weather, between eight and ten 
 o'clock, A. M. which is the only part of the 
 day when many of them leave the ground, 
 they are flying in such numbers, that they 
 obscure the sun, like a light cloud passing 
 over it. They also devour every thing before 
 them, leaving scarcely a leaf on the trees, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 69 
 
 or a blade of grass on the prairies ; and our 
 potatoe tops escape not their ravages. 
 
 Tuesday, August 3. The most of the 
 mosquetoes and horse flies, which are so 
 troublesome to man and beast, have left 
 us, as the nights now begin to be cool. 
 
 Yesterday, six families of Crees came to 
 the fort; and they have been drinking, ever 
 since. An Indian had a few wrangling words 
 with a squaw, belonging to another man, 
 to whom he gave a slight beating. At that 
 time, the chief, who was the friend of the 
 Indian, was passing by; and he was so en- 
 raged at the abusive language given by the 
 woman to his friend, that he commenced 
 beating her on the head with a club, and 
 soon terminated her life. This morning, 
 the Indian women buried her corpse ; and no 
 more notice is taken of her death, than if a 
 dog had been killed ; for her relations are at 
 a considerable distance, in another part of 
 the country.— An Indian is not much re- 
 garded or feared by his fellows, unless he 
 has a number of relations to take part with 
 him in his contests while in life, or to avenge 
 his death, in case he should be murdered. 
 This is true among all the Indian tribes, 
 with whom I have been acquainted. 
 
 Wednesday, 11. On the ninth instant, a 
 Chief among the Crees, came to the fort, 
 accompanied by a number of his relations, 
 who appeared very desirous that I should 
 take one of his daughters, to remain with 
 
70 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 me. I put him off by telling him, that I 
 could not then accept of a woman, but prob- 
 ably might, in the fall. He pressed me how- 
 ever, to allow her to remain with me, at 
 once, and added, "I am fond of you, and 
 my wish is to have my daughter with the 
 white people; for she will be treated better 
 by them, than by her own relations." In 
 fact, he almost persuaded me to keep her; 
 for I was sure that while I had the daughter, 
 I should not onh^ have the father's furs, but 
 those of all his band. This would be for the 
 interest of the Company, and would there- 
 fore, turn to my own advantage, in some 
 measure; so that a regard to interest, well 
 nigh made me consent to an act, which 
 would have been unwise and improper. But, 
 happily for me, I escaped the snare. 
 
 Saturday, 28. I have sent Primault, one 
 of my interpreters, with a letter, about six 
 days' march from this, where I expect he will 
 meet Mr. McLeod and company, on their 
 way from the Grand Portage. Two of our 
 people, whom I sent a few days since into 
 the large prairie, have just returned with 
 the news, that buffaloes are numerous, with- 
 in two days' march from this. They say, 
 that the Natives, during the two days that 
 they remained with them, killed upwards of 
 eighty, by driving them into a f)ark, made 
 for that purpose. 
 
 Sunday, October 3. Yesterday, a little 
 snow fell, which is the first that we have 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 71 
 
 had this season. We now begin to think 
 some disaster has befallen our people, on 
 their way in, as they do not make their ap- 
 pearance so soon as usual. 
 
 Monday, 4. One of our men has just 
 arrived from the Grand Portage, and deliv- 
 ered me a letter from Mr. McLeod, informing 
 me, that he is going to Athabasca, and is to 
 be succeeded here by Mr. Hugh McGillies. 
 The canoe in which this man came, left head- 
 quarters alone, some time before the main 
 brigade was prepared to leave. 
 
 Thursday, 21. This afternoon, Mr. Hugh 
 McGillies, accompanied by one man on horse 
 back, arrived, and informs me, that they 
 were stopped by the ice, fifteen miles below 
 Swan River fort, whence they will be obliged 
 to bring the goods, on sledges. 
 
 Monday, 25. A large band of Indians 
 have been here, who were continually drink- 
 ing, during the last forty eight hours. They 
 have now taken their departure; but an- 
 other band has Just arrived, and, therefore, 
 we must pass another night without sleep; 
 for when the Natives are at the fort, and 
 have the means of purchasing spirits, they 
 expect to drink both night and day. 
 
 Saturday, 30. Several of our people ar- 
 rived from Swan River, and delivered me 
 letters from my friends in the United States, 
 the perusal of which, has afforded me much 
 satisfaction. 
 
 Samuel Holmes, a clerk and interpreter, 
 
72 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 and a countryman of mine, has left us, to 
 go and join our opponents, the X. Y. people. 
 [*Soon afterwards, he left the service of the 
 last mentioned company, and went to live 
 with the Natives, the Assiniboins, by whom, 
 a year or two after, he was killed, while he 
 was on his way from the Red River to the 
 River Missouri.] 
 
 Monday, Novemher 1. I have taken a 
 ride, accompanied by my interpreter, down 
 to see the Hudson Bay people. A Mr. Miller 
 has charge of the place, and has with him 
 fifteen labouring men, the gTeater part of 
 whom have just returned from Albany fort, 
 which stands at the mouth of Albany River. 
 
 Tuesday, 9. Bird Mountain, Here I am 
 to pass another winter; and with me there 
 will be one interpreter and six labouring men, 
 &c. Thus I am continually moving from 
 place to place; and when my residence will 
 be more stationary, God only knows. I can- 
 not, however, but look forward, with pleas- 
 ing expectation, to the time, when I hope 
 to be permitted to settle down in some part 
 of the civilized world. 
 
 Friday, 19. I have just returned from 
 the lower fort, where I have been accom- 
 panied with part of my people, for goods. 
 I find here a band of Indians, who have 
 been waiting for my return, in order to pro- 
 cure such articles as they need, to enable 
 
 *The remarks included in brackets were added at 
 a later date. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 73 
 
 them to make a fall hunt. The Indians in 
 this quarter have been so long accustomed 
 to use European goods, that it would be 
 with difficulty that they could now obtain 
 a livelihood, without them. Especially do 
 they need fire arms, with which to kill their 
 game, and axes, kettles, knives, &c. They 
 have almost lost the use of bows and arrows ; 
 and they would find it nearly impossible to 
 cut their wood with implements, made of 
 stone or bone. 
 
 Thursday, December 25. Severe cold 
 weather. This day being Christmas, our 
 people have spent it as usual, in drinking 
 and fighting.— My education has taught me, 
 that the advent of a Saviour, ought to be 
 celebrated in a far different manner.— Of all 
 people in the world, I think the Canadians, 
 when drunk, are the most disagreeable; for 
 excessive drinking generally causes them to 
 quarrel and fight, among themselves. In- 
 deed, I had rather have fifty drunken Indians 
 in the fort, than five drunken Canadians. 
 
 Thursday, January 27, 1803. I have just 
 returned from Alexandria, where I passed six 
 days, much to my satisfaction, in the com- 
 pany of Messrs. H. McGillies, W. Henry and 
 F. Goedike. While there, I wrote to Messrs. 
 McLeod, A. Henry and J. Clarke, all of Ath- 
 abasca, which letters will be taken to theifi, 
 by our winter express. 
 
 Sunday, February 20. Yesterday morn- 
 ing, one of the Indian women came to the 
 
74 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 fort and said, her husband had cut off her 
 nose, and was determined to kill her, and 
 that she therefore thought proper to leave 
 him, and go to Alexandria, where she would 
 be out of his reach, at least for the present. 
 But, after her arrival here, she altered her 
 mind, and desired my interpreter to put an 
 end to her life, which he, of course, refused 
 to do. Then said she, ' I will do the business 
 myself, for I am resolved that I will live 
 with my husband no longer.' We did not 
 believe, however, that she would execute this 
 determination.— Soon after, she went into 
 the woods, a short distance, and laid down 
 her load of the few things which she had 
 upon her back, and struck and kindled up 
 a j&re, into which she threw the most of her 
 property. When it was nearly consumed, 
 she took a little bag of powder and put it 
 into her bosom, and then set fire to it. The 
 explosion burned a great part of the hair 
 from her head, injured her face very much, 
 and rendered her perfectly blind. She now 
 commenced running about, in order if possi- 
 ble, to catch her dogs, which she was resolved 
 next to burn. When we heard her calling out 
 for them, we went out to see what she was 
 doing; for at this time, we knew nothing 
 of what had taken place.— The spectacle was 
 truly shocking! She was so disfigured, as 
 scarcely to appear like a human being. We 
 brought her to the fort, where she remained 
 very quiet, until we were all in bed and 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 75 
 
 asleep, when she got up, and went again 
 into the woods. There she tied a cord about 
 her neck, and then fastened it to the limb of 
 a tree. But on throwing herself off, the 
 branch broke, and she fell into the snow, 
 where she remained until morning, when we 
 found her nearly lifeless. On examining, we 
 discovered that she had run a needle its full 
 length, into her right ear. We brought her 
 again to the fort ; but her head is very much 
 swollen, and her face is perfectly black; and 
 whether she will recover, is uncertain. [Sev- 
 eral years afterward, I saw her with her old 
 husband ; and she appeared to enjoy as good 
 health as formerly.] 
 
 Wednesday, May 4. Alexandria. Here, if 
 Providence permit, I shall pass another sum- 
 mer, and have with me Mr. F. Goedike, one 
 interpreter and several labouring men, be- 
 sides women and children. As Mr. Goedike 
 will be absent from the fort, during the 
 greater part of the summer, I shall be, in a 
 great measure, alone; for ignorant Cana- 
 dians furnish little society. Happily for me, 
 I have lifeless friends, my books, that will 
 never abandon me, until I first neglect them. 
 
 Thursday, June 2. I have set our people 
 to surround a piece of ground for a garden, 
 with palisades, such as encompass our forts. 
 The X. Y. people are building a fort, five 
 miles up this river. 
 
 One of our men, a Canadian, gave me his 
 son, a lad of about twelve years of age. 
 
76 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 whom I agree, in the name of the North 
 West Company, to feed and clothe, until he 
 becomes able to earn something more. His 
 mother is a Sauteux woman. He is to serve 
 me as cook, &c. 
 
 Tuesday, 21. This afternoon, we had an 
 uncommonly heavy shower of hail and rain. 
 
 Yesterday, I sent Mr. F. Goedike, accom- 
 panied by several of our people, with a small 
 assortment of goods, to remain at some 
 distance from this, for several weeks. In the 
 absence of my friend, this is to me, a solitary 
 place. At such times as this, my thoughts 
 visit the land of my nativity; and I almost 
 regret having left my friends and relatives, 
 among whom I might now have been pleas- 
 antly situated, but for a roving disposition. 
 But Providence, which is concerned in all the 
 affairs of men, has, though unseen, directed 
 my way into this wilderness ; and it becomes 
 me to bear up under my circumstances, with 
 resignation, perseverance and fortitude. I 
 am not forbidden to hope, that I shall one 
 day enjoy, with increased satisfaction, the 
 society of those friends, from whom I have 
 for a season banished myself. 
 
 Sunday, 26. I have just returned from 
 an excursion to the large prairies, in which 
 I was accompanied by two of my people; 
 and in all our ramble we did not see a sin- 
 gle Indian. The most of them, as is their 
 custom every spring, have gone to war again. 
 We saw, and then ran down and killed, buf- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 77 
 
 faloes, and also, saw red deers and ante- 
 lopes, bounding across the prairies, as well 
 as bears and wolves, roving about in search 
 of prey. In the small lakes and ponds, which 
 are to be met with occasionally, all over the 
 prairies, fowls were in considerable plenty; 
 and with our fire arms, we killed a suffi- 
 ciency of them, for our daily consumption. 
 Although it rained during the greater part 
 of the time that we were absent from the 
 fort, yet the pleasing variety of the objects 
 which were presented to our view, made our 
 ride very agreeable. One night, we slept at 
 the same place where, a few days before, a 
 party of the Rapid Indian warriors had en- 
 camped. They were probably in search o-f 
 their enemies, the Crees and Assiniboins; 
 and it was happy for us that we did not 
 meet them, for they would undoubtedly have 
 massacred us, as they consider us as enemies, 
 for furnishing their opponents with fire arms. 
 Monday, August 8. We have now thirty 
 people in the fort, and have not a supply of 
 provisions for two days. Our hunters, owing 
 to a bad dream, or some other superstitious 
 notion, think they cannot kill, and therefore 
 make no attempt, notwithstanding animals 
 are numerous. In the civilized parts of the 
 world, when provisions are scarce in one 
 place, they can generally be obtained from 
 some other place, in the vicinity. But the 
 case is otherwise with us. When destitute, 
 we must wait until Providence sends us a 
 
78 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 supply; and we sometimes think it rather 
 tardy in coming. 
 
 Thursday, 18. An Indian has just arrived, 
 who brings the intelligence, that forty lodges 
 of Crees and Assiniboins, who the last spring, 
 in company with forty lodges of other tribes, 
 set out on a war party, are returning home. 
 They separated at Battle River from their 
 allies, who, the messenger says, crossed that 
 river, to go and make peace with their en- 
 emies, the Rapid and Black-feet Indians. The 
 tribes last mentioned, inhabit the country 
 lying along the foot of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, between the Sisiscatchwin and JMis- 
 souri Rivers. Both parties begin to be weary 
 of such bloody wars, as have long been 
 carried on between them, and are much dis- 
 posed to patch up a peace, on almost any 
 terms. Thus do ruinous wars, waged by 
 restless and ambitious people, in civilized 
 and savage countries, lay waste and destroy 
 the comforts of mankind. 
 
 Sunday, October 16. This afternoon there 
 fell a httle snow, which is the first we have 
 had, this fall. 
 
 It is now several days since the X. Y. 
 people arrived from the Grand Portage ; but 
 they give us no news of Mr. McGillies and 
 his company ; neither would they, were their 
 condition ever so bad. Neither company 
 will convey to the other the least intelligence, 
 that at all concerns their affairs in this 
 country. The North West Company look 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 79 
 
 upon the X. Y. Company as encroachers 
 upon their territories; and, I think, with 
 some reason, since the former company first 
 led the way into this savage country; while 
 the latter people think, that the former have 
 no more right to trade in this part of the 
 world, than themselves. This jarring of in- 
 terests, keeps up continual misunderstand- 
 ings, and occasions frequent broils between 
 the contending parties ; and to such a height 
 has their enmity risen, that it has, in several 
 instances, occasioned blood shed. But here 
 the murderer escapes without punishment; 
 for the civil law does not extend its pro- 
 tection, so far into the wilderness. I under- 
 stand, however, that measures are in con- 
 templation in England, which will remedy 
 this evil. If something should not be done 
 soon, I fear many of us may lose our lives. 
 
 Wednesday, 19. About six inches of snow 
 have fallen. Mr. McGillies and company 
 arrived from the Grand Portage, and de- 
 livered me letters from my friends in the 
 United States; and I rejoiced to hear that 
 they were in health and prosperity. 
 
 Saturday, 22. This afternoon, one of our 
 men, an Iroquois, died; and it is thought 
 the foundation was laid for his death, by 
 too great an exertion of his strength at 
 the portages, on his way into the country. 
 The death of our people is not unfrequently 
 occasioned by this circumstance. 
 
 Sunday, November 6. On the 28th ult. 
 
80 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 we sent eight of our men, on horseback, 
 into the plains, to look for buffaloes; and 
 they returned this evening, with their horses 
 loaded with the flesh of those animals. They 
 say that they are still three days' march 
 from this. 
 
 Tuesday, December 27. Messrs. Henry 
 and Goedike, my companions and friends, 
 are both absent, on excursions into two dif- 
 ferent parts of the country. I sensibly feel 
 the loss of their society, and pass, occasion- 
 ally, a solitary hour, which would glide away 
 imperceptibly, in their company. WTien they 
 are absent I spend the greater part of my 
 time in reading and writing. Now and then 
 I take a ride on horseback, in the neighbour- 
 hood of the fort, and occasionally I visit our 
 neighbours, drawn in a cariol by horses, if 
 the snow is light, or by dogs, if it is deep. 
 This afternoon, I accompanied Mr. McGillies, 
 to pay a visit to our X. Y. neighbours. 
 
 Wednesday, February 22, 1804. Lac La 
 Pecbe, or Fishing Lake. This lies about 
 two days' march into the large plains, west 
 from Alexandria, which place I left on the 
 15th ultimo, accompanied by twelve of our 
 people. I have come here to pass the win- 
 ter, by the side of the X. Y. people. For 
 some time after our arrival, we subsisted on 
 rose buds, a kind of food neither very pala- 
 table nor nourishing, which we gathered in 
 the fields. They were better than nothing, 
 since they would just support life. When we 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 81 
 
 should procure any thing better, I knew not, as 
 the buffaloes at that time, in consequence of 
 the mild weather, were a great distance, out in 
 the large plains, and my hunters could find 
 neither moose nor deer. We hoped, however, 
 that a merciful God would not suffer us to 
 starve; and that hope has not been disap- 
 pointed, for we have now provisions in abun- 
 dance, for which we endeavour to be thankful. 
 On the 11th instant, I took one of my 
 interpreters and ten labouring men with me, 
 and proceeded several days' march into the 
 wilderness, where we found a camp of up- 
 wards of thirty lodges of Crees and Assini- 
 boins, of whom we made a good purchase 
 of furs and provisions. They were encamped 
 on the summit of a hill, whence we had an 
 extensive view of the surrounding country, 
 which was low and level. Not a tree could 
 be seen, as far as the eye could extend ; and 
 thousands of buffaloes were to be seen graz- 
 ing, in different parts of the plain. In order 
 to kill them, the Natives in large bands, 
 mount their horses, run them down and 
 shoot, with their bows and arrows, what 
 number they please, or drive them into parks 
 and kill them at their leisure. In fact, those 
 Indians, who reside in the large plains or 
 prairies, are the most independent, and ap- 
 pear to be the most contented and happy 
 people upon the face of the earth. They 
 subsist upon the flesh of the buff aloe, and 
 of the skins of that animal they make the 
 
82 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 greatest part of their clothing, which is both 
 warm and convenient. Their tents and beds 
 are also made of the skins of the same ani- 
 mal. 
 
 The Crees and Assiniboins procure their 
 livelihood with so much ease, that they have 
 but little to confine them at home. They 
 therefore employ much of their time, in wag- 
 ing war with their neighbours. 
 
 Thursday, March 1. Es-qui-un-arwacb-a, 
 or the last Mountain, or rather Hill; for 
 there are no mountains in this part of the 
 country. Here I arrived this evening, hav- 
 ing left Lac La Peche on the 28th ultimo, 
 in company with my interpreter and seven 
 men. The men, I ordered to encamp at a 
 short distance from this, and to join me 
 early to-morrow morning ; as it is more con- 
 venient and safe, especially when we are not 
 in our forts, to give the Indians spirits to 
 drink in the day time, than in the night. 
 On our arrival, we were invited to the tents 
 of several of the principal Indians, to eat 
 and smoke our pipes. — Indians show great 
 hospitality to strangers, before they have 
 been long acquainted with civilized people, 
 after which, they adopt many of their cus- 
 toms; but they are by no means always 
 gainers, by the exchange. 
 
 Monday, 5. On the 2nd, the remainder of 
 our people arrived, and soon after I com- 
 menced dealing out spirits to the Natives; 
 and they continued to drink during all that 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 83 
 
 day and the following night. We were, there- 
 fore, prevented from resigning ourselves to 
 sleep. For though the Indians are naturally 
 well disposed toward the white people, and 
 seldom begin a quarrel with us, and will 
 even receive many insults, before they at- 
 tempt to defend themselves ; yet when drunk, 
 they often behave like mad men or devils, 
 and need to be narrowly watched. 
 
 This morning, I sent six of my people to 
 the fort with sledges loaded with furs and 
 provisions, in order to obtain another supply 
 of goods, to enable us to go and trade with 
 another large band of Indians, who are about 
 two days' march from this, into the plains. 
 
 Tuesday, 6. North side of the Great 
 DeviVs Lake, or as the Natives call it, Much- 
 e-man-e-to Sa-ky-e-gun. As I had nothing 
 of importance to attend to, while our peo- 
 ple would be absent in their trip to and 
 from the fort, and was desirous of seeing 
 my friend Henry, who, I understood, was 
 about half a day's march from where I was 
 the last night, I therefore, set off this morn- 
 ing, accompanied by an Indian lad who 
 serves as a guide, with the intention of visit- 
 ing this place. After walking all day, with- 
 out finding either wood or water, and but 
 a few inches of snow, just as the sun was 
 descending below the horizon, we thought 
 that we descried a small grove, at a con- 
 siderable distance, directly before us. So 
 long, therefore, as the light remained, we 
 
84 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 directed our course to that object; but as 
 soon as the daylight failed, we had nothing 
 by which to guide ourselves, excepting the 
 stars, which, however, answered very well, 
 until even their faint twinkling was utterly 
 obscured by clouds, and we were inveloped 
 in total darkness. In this forlorn condition, 
 we thought it best to continue our march 
 as well as we could; for we were unwilling 
 to lie down, with little or nothing with which 
 to cover us, and keep ourselves from freezing. 
 There was no wood, with which we could 
 make a fire, nor buffaloe dung, which Often 
 serves as fuel, when travelling about in those 
 plains. Neither could we find water to drink ; 
 and without fire, we could not melt the snow, 
 for this purpose. We suffered much for want 
 of water, as we had nothing to eat but very 
 dry provisions, which greatly excited thirst. 
 —To be deprived of drink for one day, is 
 more distressing than to be destitute of 
 food for two. — It would not have been safe 
 for us to encamp, without a fire; for we 
 should have been continually exposed to be 
 trodden upon by the large herds of buffaloes, 
 that are perpetually roving about in the 
 plains, or to be devoured by the wolves, 
 which ever follow the buffaloe. We therefore 
 continued travelling, uncertain whither we 
 were going, until at length, the dogs that 
 drew my sledge, suddenly passed by us, as if 
 they saw some uncommon object, directly 
 before us. We did not attempt to impede 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 85 
 
 their motion, but followed them as fast as 
 we could, until they brought us to the place 
 where we now are. — It is almost incredible 
 that my dogs should have smelt this camp 
 at such a distance; for we walked vigorous- 
 ly no less than four hours after they passed 
 us, before we arrived here. 
 
 We are happy in finding fifteen tents of 
 Crees and Assiniboins, who want for none 
 of the dainties of this country ; and I meet, 
 as usual, with a very hospitable reception. 
 The mistress of the tent where I am, un- 
 harnessed my dogs, and put my sledge, &c., 
 into a safe place. She was then proceeding 
 to give food to my dogs, which labour, I 
 offered to do myself; but she told me to 
 remain quiet and smoke my pipe, for she 
 added, "they shall be taken good care of, 
 and will be as safe in my hands, as they 
 would be were they in your own." — Notwith- 
 standing it was near midnight when I ar- 
 rived, yet at that late hour, the most of the 
 Indians rose, and many of them invited me 
 to their tents, to eat a few mouthfuls, and 
 to smoke the sociable pipe. 
 
 But now, all those necessary ceremonies 
 are ov«r; and I am happy in being able to 
 lay myself down on buff aloe robes, by the 
 side of a warm fire, expecting to obtain 
 sweet and refreshing repose, which nature 
 requires, after a day's march so fatiguing. 
 If I was ever thankful for any of God's 
 favours, it is, to find myself here among 
 
86 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 friends, and in comfortable circumstances, 
 when a few hours before, I expected to wan- 
 der with weariness, anxiety and danger, dur- 
 ing the whole night, in the open plain. 
 
 Wednesday, 7. Canadiaifs Camp. This 
 place is so called from the fact, that a num- 
 ber of our people have passed the greater 
 part of the winter here. As there is a good 
 foot path, from the place where I slept last 
 night to this place, I left my young guide 
 and came here alone. Frequently on the 
 way, I met Indians, who are going to join 
 those at the Devil's Lake. I came here in 
 the pleasing expectation of seeing my friend 
 Henry; but I am disappointed. Yesterday 
 morning, he set out for Alexandria. I hope 
 to have the satisfaction, however, of soon 
 meeting him at the fort. — I here find six Ca- 
 nadians with their families, who have passed 
 the winter in this vicinity, and have sub- 
 sisted upon the flesh of the buffaloe, which 
 animals are found in plenty. The people 
 appear to be happy in their situation. In- 
 deed, a Canadian, with his belly full of fat 
 meat, is never otherwise. 
 
 Friday, 9. North side of DeviTs Lake. 
 In the morning, I left the Canadian's Camp, 
 and this afternoon reached this place, where 
 I found my young guide, waiting my return. 
 He is the son of a chief, among the Crees 
 and Assiniboins. His grandfather was Mon- 
 sieur Florimeaux, a Frenchman, who passed 
 a number of years in the Indian country. 
 
HARMaN'S JOURNAL. 87 
 
 When he went to Canada, he took his son, 
 the father of my young guide, along with 
 him, as far as Quebec, intending to send 
 him to France. But the lad, who was then 
 twelve or thirteen years old, did not Hke to 
 leave his native country. After remaining 
 in Canada for some time, therefore, he de- 
 serted and returned to this part of the world, 
 where, he, in time, became a famous warrior, 
 and at length, a chief. He is much respected 
 and beloved by his relatives, and is revered 
 by his own family. As a husband he is 
 affectionate, and as a father he is kind. It 
 was perhaps fortunate for him that he did 
 not go to France; for, I am persuaded he 
 could not have lived more happily and at 
 ease, in any part of the world, than in this 
 independent country, which is abundantly 
 supphed with all of the necessaries, and many 
 of the luxuries of life. 
 
 Saturday, 10. In the middle of an exten- 
 sive plain. Early in the morning, accom- 
 panied by my young guide, I left our last 
 night's lodgings, to go to the place where I 
 expect to find my people, which is about 
 two days' march further into the great plain, 
 than where I separated from my interpreter, 
 on the 6th inst. After walking all day, with- 
 out finding either wood or water^ at eight 
 o'clock at night, we have concluded to lay 
 ourselves down, in order if possible, to get a 
 little rest. In the day time, the snow melted 
 a little; but in the evening it has frozen 
 
88 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 hard, and our feet and our legs, as high as 
 our knees, are so much covered with ice, that 
 we cannot take off our shoes; and having 
 nothing with w^hich to make a fire, in order 
 to thaw them, we must pass the night 
 with them on. A more serious evil is, the 
 risk we must run of being killed by wild 
 beasts. 
 
 Sunday, 11. Ca-ta-buy-se-pu, or the River 
 that calls. This steam is so named by the 
 superstitious Natives, who imagine that a 
 spirit is constantly going up or do^n it; 
 and they say that they often hear its voice 
 distinctly, which resembles the cry of a human 
 being. The last night was so unpleasant to 
 me, that I could not sleep, arising in part 
 from the constant fear which I was in, of 
 being torn to pieces before the morning, by 
 wild beasts. Despondency to a degree took 
 possession of my spirit. But the light of the 
 morning dissipated my fears, and restored 
 bo my mind, its usual cheerfulness. As soon 
 as the hght of day appeared, we left the 
 place where we had lain, not a little pleased,, 
 that the wild beasts had not fallen upon us. 
 It has snowed and rained all day.— Here I 
 find my interpreter, and eighty tents, or 
 nearly two hundred men, with their families. 
 — Along the banks of this rivulet, there is a 
 little timber, consisting principally of the 
 inferiour species of the maple; but no where 
 else, is there even a shrub to be seen. The 
 surrounding country is a barren plain, where 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 89 
 
 nothing grows excepting grass, which rises 
 from six to eight inches in height, and fur- 
 nishes food for the buffaloe. 
 
 Here, again, as usual, I meet with a kind 
 reception. These Indians seldom come thus 
 far into the plains, as the part of the country 
 where we now are, belongs to the Rapid In- 
 dians. A white man was never before known, 
 to penetrate so far. 
 
 Wednesday, 14. Last evening my people 
 returned from the fort ; and as I now had 
 spirits for the Natives, they, of course, drank 
 during the whole night. Being so numerous, 
 they made a terrible noise. They stole a 
 small keg of spirits from us, and one of 
 them attempted to stab me. The knife went 
 through my clothes, and just grazed the 
 skin of my body. To day I spoke to the 
 Indian who made this attempt, and he cried 
 like a child, and said, he had nearly killed 
 his father, meaning me, and asked me why 
 I did not tie him, when he had lost the use 
 of his reason.— My people inform me that 
 there is little or no snow, for three days' 
 march from this ; but after that, there is an 
 abundance, all the way to the fort. 
 
 Friday, 16. About twelve o'clock, we left 
 the Indians' camp ; but being heavily loaded, 
 considering there is no snow and our prop- 
 erty is drawn by dogs on sledges, we made 
 slow progress. After we had encamped, we 
 sent our dogs, which are twenty two in num- 
 ber, after the buffaloe; and they soon stopped 
 
90 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 one of them, when one of our party went 
 and killed him with an axe, for we have not 
 a gun with us. It is, however, imprudent 
 for us to venture thus far, without fire arms ; 
 for every white man, when in this savage 
 country, ought at all times to be well armed. 
 Then he need be under little apprehension 
 of an attack; for Indians, when sober, are 
 not inclined to hazard their lives, and when 
 they apprehend danger from quarrelling, 
 will remain quiet and peaceable. 
 
 Saturday, 17. North West end of DeviV s 
 Lake. The weather is extremely mild, for 
 the season. The surrounding country is all 
 on fire ; but happily for us, we are encamped 
 in a swampy place. When the fire passes 
 over the plains, which circumstance happens 
 almost yearly, but generally later than this, 
 great numbers of horses and buffaloes are 
 destroyed ; for those animals when surrounded 
 by fire, will stand perfectly still, until they 
 are burned to death.— This evening, we killed 
 another buffaloe, in the same manner as we 
 killed one, the last evening. 
 
 Sunday, 18. The weather is still mild, 
 and we see many grass-hoppers, which appear 
 unusually early in the season. As I found 
 that we were coming on too slowly with our 
 heavy loads, about twelve o'clock, I left our 
 property in charge of three of my people, 
 and am going to the fort with the others, 
 for horses to come for it. 
 
 This afternoon we met several of the X. Y. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL, 91 
 
 people, who were in search of Indians; but 
 from the information they received from us, 
 they thought them at too great a distance, 
 and they are, therefore, accompanying us to 
 the fort. — The same success has attended 
 us this evening, which we met with the two 
 preceding days, in regard to supplying our- 
 selves with food. Indeed, in these plains 
 where buffaloes are numerous, it is not cus- 
 tomary, nor is it needful for people who are 
 travelling, to burden themselves with pro- 
 visions; for if they have fire arms, they can 
 always kill a sufficiency for the day. This 
 renders travelling cheap and convenient. 
 
 Thursday, 22. Lac la P^cbe. Here we 
 have arrived, and I am happy in reaching 
 a place, where I can take a little repose, 
 after so long and fatiguing a jaunt. Yet it 
 has been in many respects, both pleasant 
 and profitable. The country which I travelled 
 over was beautifully situated, and over- 
 spread with buffaloes, and various other 
 kinds of animals, as well as many other de- 
 lightful objects, which in succession presented 
 themselves to our view. These things made 
 the day glide away almost imperceptibly. 
 But there were times, when my situation 
 was far from being agreeable; they, how- 
 ever, soon passed away, and we all have 
 abundant reason to render thanks to a kind 
 Providence, for his protection, and for our 
 safe return to our home and our families. 
 
 At three different times, while performing 
 
92 HARMOX'S JOURNAL. 
 
 the tour above described, I was in great 
 danger of losing my life, by the evil mach- 
 inations of the Natives. One escape has been 
 already mentioned, when one of them at- 
 tempted to stab me. While I was dealing 
 out spirits to the Savages, at the last moun- 
 tain, on the night of the 5th inst. an In- 
 dian, who was much intoxicated, told me, 
 that I should never see another sun arise; 
 and he, unquestionably, intended to kill me. 
 The night following, after I arrived at the 
 north side of the Devil's Lake, I was well 
 received by the greater part of the Natives 
 there ; but as I have since been informed, one 
 of them had resolved to take my life. And 
 yet, this villain invited me to his tent, and 
 I visited it, without suspicion. He was pre- 
 vented from executing his purpose by my 
 host, who was acquainted with his purpose, 
 and told him that he must first despatch 
 him; for, he added, ' Kitch-e-mo-cum-mon' 
 (that is Big Knife, w^hich is the name that 
 they give me,) 'is my brother, and has 
 taken up his lodging with me, and it there- 
 fore becomes me to defend him and his prop- 
 erty.' No Indian will suffer a stranger, if 
 he be able to defend him, to be injured, 
 while in his tent, and under his protection. 
 Therefore, he who had intended to massacre 
 me, thought it best to remain quiet. This 
 hostile Indian had nothing against me, but 
 that I was a friend to a person who he con- 
 sidered had injured him; and as this person 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 93 
 
 was at a great distance, and therefore be- 
 yond his reach, he was resolved to avenge 
 the affront upon me. It is the custom of all 
 Savages, not to be very particular on whom 
 the punishment of an offence falls, whether 
 the guilty person, or a relation or friend of 
 this person. The first of these whom he hap- 
 pens to meet, becomes the object of his ven- 
 geance ; and then his wrath is appeased, and 
 he will not even lift his hand against the 
 person who has offended him. 
 
 Saturday, 24. Yesterday, Mr. F. Goedike 
 arrived from Alexandria, and delivered me 
 a letter from Mr. McGillies, requesting me to 
 abandon Lac la Peche, and proceed, with 
 all my people, to Alexandria. In the fore 
 part of the day, we all left the former place. 
 There is a woman with us, belonging to one 
 of our men, who has walked the whole day, 
 in the snow and water, and who, this even- 
 ing, gave birth to a son. 
 
 Tuesday, 27. Alexandria. Here we ar- 
 rived this afternoon. The woman who, on 
 the 24th inst. was delivered of a child, took 
 it on her shoulders the day following, and 
 continued her march, as though nothing un- 
 usual had occurred ! It is a very happy cir- 
 cumstance, that the women of this country 
 are blessed with such strong constitutions, 
 as they would otherwise be utterly unable 
 to endure the hardships to which they are 
 often exposed, and particularly in child-birth. 
 
 Monday, April 9. Yesterday, the ice in 
 
94 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 this river broke up; and to day, we sent 
 off four men in a boat, loaded with pimican, 
 to be transported as far as the entrance of 
 Winipick River. — The country all around us, 
 is on fire. 
 
 Sunday, 29. Yesterday, the greater part 
 of our people set out for Swan River ; and to 
 'day, Mr. McGillies, and the most of those 
 who were left, have departed for the New 
 Fort, which is distant about forty-five miles, 
 to the north west from the former general 
 rendezvous, the Grand Portage, which the 
 Americans have obliged us to abandon. 
 
 It is thought necessary that I should pass 
 another summer at this place; but I am 
 happy in having with me my friends Henry 
 and Goedike. There are here also one inter- 
 preter and several labouring men, besides 
 women and children. We are preparing a 
 piece of ground for a garden, the cultivation 
 of which, will be an amusement ; and the 
 produce of it, we hope, will add to our com- 
 forts. Mr. Goedike plays the violin, and 
 will occasionally cheer our spirits, with an 
 air. But the most of our leisure time, which 
 is at least five sixths of the whole, will be 
 spent in reading, and in meditating and 
 conversing upon what we read. How valu- 
 able is the art, which multiplies books, with 
 great facility, and at a moderate expense. 
 Without them the wheels of time would drag 
 heavily, in this wilderness. 
 
 Tuesday, May 22. The seeds which we 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. . 95 
 
 put into the ground on the 10th inst. have 
 sprung up, and grow remarkably well. 
 
 Tuesday, 29. During the last forty eight 
 hours, it has rained without cessation; and 
 I think I never witnessed so great a fall of 
 water, within the same space of time. The 
 river has overflowed its banks, to a much 
 greater distance than is common; and our 
 garden, which is not far from it, now lies 
 under water. 
 
 Thursday, 31. In the morning, Mr. Goe- 
 dike, Collin, my interpreter, a young lad 
 and myself, set off for the purpose of paying 
 a visit to our X. Y. neighbours. On leaving 
 the fort, we had the river to cross, which, 
 in consequence of the late rains, is about 
 sixty rods broad. Our only means of cross- 
 ing it was a canoe, made of the skins of buf- 
 faloes, which, on account of the length of 
 time that it had been in the water, began 
 to be rotten. Before we reached the other 
 side of the river, the canoe was nearly half 
 fiilled with water. We drew it on shore, 
 mounted our horses, visited our neighbours, 
 and returned to the place where we had left 
 our canoe, at about three o'clock P. M. 
 Having repaired it a little, we embarked, for 
 the purpose of returning to the fort. We 
 soon perceived that the water came into the 
 canoe very fast ; and we continued paddling, 
 in hope of reaching the opposite shore, before 
 it would fill. We were, however, sadly dis- 
 appointed ; for it became full, when we had 
 
96 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 gone about one third of the distance; but 
 it did not immediately overset. The water, 
 in that place, was about five feet deep; but 
 the current was strong, and it soon carried 
 us to a i^lace where we could not reach the 
 bottom, and the canoe overset. We all clung 
 to it and, thus drifted a considerable dis- 
 tance, until the canoe was, at length, stop- 
 ped by a few willows, whose tops rose above 
 the water. Here I had a moment, in which 
 I could reflect on our truly deplorable con- 
 dition, and directed my thoughts to the 
 means of relief. My first object was, if pos- 
 sible, to gain the shore, in order to free my- 
 self from my clothes, which I could not do 
 where I then was. But my great coat, a 
 heavy poniard, boots, &c. rendered it very 
 difficult for me to swim; and I had become 
 so torpid, in consequence of having been so 
 long in the cold water, that before I had 
 proceeded one third of the way to the shore, 
 I sunk, but soon arose again, to the surface 
 of the water. I then exerted myself to the 
 utmost; but, notwithstanding, soon sunk a 
 second time. I now considered that I must 
 inevitably drown; the objects of the world 
 retire from my view, and my mind was in- 
 tent only upon approaching death ; yet I was 
 not afraid to meet my dissolution.* I how- 
 ever made a few struggles more, which hap- 
 
 *For at that time, I was ignorant of my lost con- 
 dition by nature, and of the necessity of being clothed 
 in a better righteousness than my own, to prepare me 
 to appear with safety before a holy God, in judgment. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 97 
 
 pily took me to a small tree that stood on 
 what is usually the bank of the river, but 
 which is now some rods distant from dry 
 land, I remainecl there for some time, to 
 recover strength, and at length proceeded to 
 the shore; and as soon as I had gained it, 
 my mind rose in ardent gratitude to my 
 gracious Preserver and deliverer, who had 
 snatched me from the very jaws of death ! 
 / was now safe on shore; but the condition 
 of my unfortunate companions, was far dif- 
 ferent. They had still hold of the canoe in 
 the middle of the river, and by struggling 
 were just able to keep themselves from sink- 
 ing. We had no other craft, with which to 
 go upon the water, nor could any of our 
 people swim, who were standing on the shore, 
 the melancholy spectators of this scene of 
 distress. I therefore took off my clothes, 
 and threw myself, a second time, into the 
 water, in order, if possible, to afford some 
 aid to my companions. When I had reached 
 the place where they were, I directed the boy, 
 to take hold of the hair of my head, and I 
 took him to a staddle, at no great distance, 
 and directed him to lay fast hold of it, by 
 which means he would be able to keep the 
 greater part of his body above water. I then 
 returned to the canoe, and took Collin to a 
 similar place. Mr. Goedike had alone pro- 
 ceeded to a small staddle, and would have 
 reached the shore, had not the cramp seized 
 him in one of his legs. I next tried to take 
 7 
 
98 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 the canoe ashore, but could not alone effect 
 it. I therefore, swam to the opposite shore, 
 caught a horse and mounted him, and made 
 him swim to the canoe, at 'one end of which 
 I tied a cord, and taking the other end in 
 my teeth and hands, after drifting a con- 
 siderable distance, I reached the land. After 
 repairing the canoe a little, I proceeded to 
 my three wretched fellow creatures, who had, 
 by this time, become nearly lifeless, having 
 been in the water at least two hours. By 
 the aid of a kind Providence, however, they 
 at last safely reached the shore; and so 
 deeply were they affected with their unex- 
 pected escape, that they prostrated them- 
 selves to the earth, in an act of thanksgiv- 
 ing, to their great and merciful Deliverer. 
 
 Sunday, July 1. We now begin to have 
 strawberries, and the prospect is, that they 
 will be abundant. 
 
 Tuesday, 17. On the 8th instant, some 
 Indians ran away with three of our horses; 
 and on the following morning, Mr. Goedike 
 and myself mounted two others, to pursue 
 the thieves. We followed them for two days, 
 and then, ascertaining that they were so far 
 in advance of us, and travelled so fast, that 
 it would be impossible to overtake them, 
 before they would reach their camp, which is 
 six or seven days' march from this, we ceased 
 following them. We directed our course an- 
 other way, for the purpose of finding buf- 
 faloe, but without success. We, however, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 99 
 
 killed as many fowls, in the small lakes, as 
 we needed for daily consumption; and this 
 evening returned to the fort, having had on 
 the whole a pleasant ride. 
 
 We have had a frost, so hard, that it has 
 injured many things in our garden. 
 
 Wednesday, 25. An Indian has arrived 
 here with six horses, who states, that he 
 came directly from the territory of the Black 
 feet Indians. He brings the intelligence, that ^ 
 this tribe have concluded a peace with the 
 Crees and Assiniboins; and that forty tents 
 of the latter tribes, who went into that 
 quarter, two years since, are on their way 
 home, and will reach this place before the 
 commencement of winter. 
 
 Saturday, September 1. This afternoon, 
 Mr. Ferguson and company arrived, from 
 fort Dauphin, bringing the intelligence, that 
 all the Indians who are accustomed to re- 
 main in that vicinity, have now gone to the 
 Great Winipick lake. 
 
 Thursday, October 4. This afternoon, 
 Mr. Francis la Rocque arrived, from Mon- 
 tague a la Basse, which lies about five days' 
 march from this, down the river. He brought 
 me letters from several gentlemen in this 
 country, one of which is from Mr. Charles 
 Chaboillez, who informs me that this place 
 will be supplied with goods, this season, by 
 the way of the Red River, of which depart- 
 ment he has the superintendence. As I am 
 to pass the winter here, he desires me to 
 
 iLofC. 
 
100 HARMONS JOURNAL. 
 
 axicompanj Mr. La Rocque, down to Mon- 
 tagne a la Basse, and receive such goods as 
 will be necessary for the Indians at this post. 
 Friday, 26. Agreeably to the instructions 
 of Mr. Chaboillez, in company with Mr. La 
 Rocque, and an Lidian, who served as guide, 
 I set out on the 6th instant, for Montague 
 a Ja Basse. Our course was nearly south, 
 over a plain country; and on the 9th, we 
 reached Riviere qui Apelle, where the North 
 West and X. Y. companies have each a fort, 
 where we tarried all night, with Monsieur 
 Poitras, who has charge of that post. The 
 next morning, we continued our march, which 
 was always in beautiful plains, until the 
 11th, when we arrived at the place of our 
 destination. There I found Mr. Chaboillez, 
 C. McKenzie, &c. The fort is well built, and 
 beautifully situated, on a very high bank 
 of the Red River, and overlooks the country 
 round to a great extent, which is a perfect 
 plain. There can be seen, at almost all 
 seasons of the year, from the fort gate, as I 
 am informed, buffaloes grazing, or antelopes 
 bounding over the extensive plains, which 
 cannot fail to render the situation highly 
 pleasant. I spent my time there very pleas- 
 antly, during eight days, in company with 
 the gentlemen above mentioned. At times, 
 we would mount our horses, and ride out 
 into the plains,' and frequently try the speed 
 of our beasts. On the 19th, I left that en- 
 chanting abode, in company with Messrs. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 101 
 
 Chaboillez, McKenzie, &c., and the day fol- 
 lowing, arrived at Riviere qui Apelle, where 
 we found the people, waiting our arrival. 
 They came here by water ; but at this season, 
 canoes go up no further, on account of the 
 shallowness of the river. The goods intended 
 for Alexandria, therefore, must be taken 
 from this on horse back. Accordingly, we 
 delivered out to the people such articles as 
 we thought necessary, and sent them off; 
 and the day following, Mr. Chaboillez re- 
 turned to Montague a la Basse, and Mr. 
 McKenzie and myself proceeded to Alexandria, 
 where we arrived this afternoon, after hav- 
 ing made a pleasant jaunt of twenty one 
 days. 
 
 Here I shall pass the winter, having with 
 me Mr. Goedike, two interpreters, twenty 
 labouring men, fourteen women and sixteen 
 children. 
 
 Saturday, November 24. Some people 
 have just arrived from Montague a la Basse, 
 with a letter from Mr. Chaboillez, who in- 
 forms me, that two Captains, Clarke and 
 Lewis, with one hundred and eighty soldiers, 
 have arrived at the Mandan Village on the 
 Missouri River, which place is situated about 
 three days' march distant from the residence 
 of Mr. Chaboillez. They have invited Mr. 
 Chaboillez to visit them. It is said, that 
 on their arrival, they hoisted the American 
 flag, and informed the Natives that their 
 object was not to trade, but merely to ex- 
 
102 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 plore the country; and that as soon as the 
 navigation shall open, they design to con- 
 tinue their route across the Rocky Mountain, 
 and thence descend to the Pacific Ocean. 
 They made the Natives a few small presents, 
 and repaired their guns, axes, &c., gratis. 
 Mr. Chaboillez writes, that they behave hon- 
 ourably toward his people, who are there 
 to trade with the Natives. 
 
 Tuesday, January 21, 1805. For nearly 
 a month, we have subsisted on little besides 
 potatoes; but thanks to a kind Providence, 
 the last night, two of my men returned 
 from the plains, with their slecJges loaded 
 with the flesh of the buff aloe. They bring 
 us the pleasing intelligence, that there is 
 a plenty of these animals within a day's 
 march of us. This supply of provisions could 
 not have come more opportunely, for our 
 potatoes are almost gone. 
 
 About a month since, I sent Mr. Goedike, 
 accompanied by ten men, out into the plains, 
 in hopes that they might fall in with the 
 Natives, who would be able to furnish us 
 with food; but we have heard nothing from 
 them, and I cannot conjecture what should 
 have detained them so long, as I did not 
 expect that they would be absent, for more 
 than ten days, from the fort. 
 
 Thursday, February 7. At the most of 
 the forts in the Swan River department, 
 they have not a sufBciency of provisions; 
 and they have therefore, sent the greater 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 103 
 
 number of their people, to pass the remainder 
 of the winter here. We now have buffaloe 
 in abundance, though our family consists 
 of upwards of seventy persons, who consume, 
 at least, four hundred and fifty pounds, 
 daily. 
 
 Thursday, 19. On the 8th inst. two men 
 arrived from Montague a la Basse, with a 
 packet of letters, informing me, that a coali- 
 tion took place, the last autumn at Montreal, 
 between the North West and the X. Y. com- 
 panies, which letters I have forwarded to 
 Fort des Prairies. 
 
 On the 16th inst. I left this, in a cariol, 
 drawn by a horse, to visit a place, about 
 two days' march from this, into the plains, 
 where a number of our people have passed a 
 greater part of the winter ; and in the course 
 of this pleasant ride, I saw thousands of 
 buffaloes. 
 
 Saturday, March 2. People arrived from 
 Fort des Prairies, with letters from that 
 place, the English Eiver, and Athabasca.— 
 Yesterday, swans passed this place, on their 
 way to the northward. 
 
 Monday, 18. A band of Crees and Assini- 
 boins came in, a few days since, consisting 
 of more than a hundred persons. As they 
 brought a considerable quantity of furs 
 and provisions, they were able to purchase 
 a large supply of spirits for several days, 
 and of course continued drinking, until their 
 means were exhausted. During this period. 
 
104 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 one of the Assiniboins stabbed one of the 
 Crees. The wound, however, is not thought 
 to be mortal. The injury has been atoned 
 for, therefore, by a horse, presented by the 
 aggressor, to the wounded Indian ; and now, 
 they appear to be as great friends, as they 
 were before the quarrel took place. 
 
 It is a common thing among all the Na- 
 tives, for an offender to offer property in 
 satisfaction for an injury; and when this is 
 accepted by the injured party, contention 
 between them entirely ceases. Even murder 
 is, sometimes, in this way, atoned for; but 
 not commonly. In ordinary cases, nothing 
 but the death of the murderer, or of some 
 of his near relations, will satisfy the desire 
 of revenge in an Indian, whose relative has 
 been murdered. 
 
 Wednesday, April 10. On the 24th ult. 
 I set out on horse back, accompanied by one 
 man, for Montague a la Basse. When we 
 arrived there, we were not a little surprised 
 to find the fort gates shut, and about eighty 
 tents of Crees and Assiniboins encamped in 
 a hostile manner, around it, and threatening 
 to massacre all the white people in it. They, 
 in a menacing manner, threw balls over the 
 palisades, and told our people to gather 
 them up, declaring that they would proba- 
 bly have use for them in the course of a 
 few days. After having passed several days 
 there, I set out to return home. Just as I 
 had gotten out of the fort gate, three vil- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 105 
 
 lainous Indians approached me, and- one 
 of them seized my horse by the bridle and 
 stopped him, saying, that the beast belonged 
 to him, and that he would take him from 
 me. I told him that he had disposed of 
 him to Mr. Chaboillez, who had charge of 
 the post ; and that of this gentleman, I had 
 purchased him, and that I had no concern 
 with the matter, which was wholly between 
 him and Mr. Chaboillez. Perceiving, however, 
 that he was determined not to let go of 
 the bridle, I gave him a smart blow on his 
 hand, with the butt end of my whip, which 
 consisted of a deer's horn, and instantly 
 striking my horse, I caused him to spring 
 forward, and leave the Indian behind. Find- 
 ing myself thus clear of this fellow, I con- 
 tinued my rout ; but he with one of his com- 
 panions, followed us nearly half of the day, 
 if not longer. After this length of time we 
 saw no more of them. Apprehensive, how- 
 ever, that they might fall upon us in our 
 encampment at night, and steal our horses, 
 and probably massacre us, after it became 
 dark, we went a Httle out of the path, and 
 laid ourselves down ; but we dared not make 
 a fire, lest the light or the smoke should 
 discover the place where we were. 
 
 On my return, I passed four days agree- 
 ably, at Riviere qui Apelle, in the company 
 of a number of gentlemen, whom I found 
 there. On leaving that place, I was obliged 
 to cross the river, and at this late season, 
 
106 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 the ice was bad. My horse, while I was on 
 him, fell through the ice twice, and the last 
 time, I came very near passing under it ; 
 but a kind Providence once more, granted 
 me deliverance. 
 
 While at Montague a la Basse, Mr. Cha- 
 boillez, induced me to consent to undertake 
 a long and arduous tour of discovery. I am 
 to leave that place, about the beginning of 
 June, accompanied by six or seven Cana- 
 dians, and by two or three Indians. The first 
 place, at which we shall stop, will be the 
 Mandan Village, on the Missouri River. 
 Thence, we shall steer our course towards 
 the Rocky Mountain, accompanied by a num- 
 ber of the Mandan Indians, who proceed in 
 that direction every spring, to meet and 
 trade with another tribe of Indians, who 
 reside on the other side of the Rocky Moun- 
 tain. It is expected that we shall return from 
 our excursion, in the month of November next. 
 
 IThis journey, I never undertook; for 
 soon after the plan of it was settled, my 
 health became so much impaired, that I 
 was under the necessity of proceeding to 
 Head Quarters, to procure medical assistance. 
 A Mr. La Rocque attempted to make this 
 tour ; but went no farther than the Mandan 
 Village.] 
 
 Thursday, 18. We are packing our furs, 
 in order to send them to the general ren- 
 dezvous ; and a few days hence, I shall aban- 
 don this fort, and the Indians in this vicinity 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 107 
 
 will go either into the region of Riviere 
 qui Apelle, or up the Sisiscatchwin River, 
 near Fort des Prairies. 
 
 Sunday, May 5. We are now about three 
 leagues below Alexandria, which place we 
 abandoned on the 28th ult. All our prop- 
 erty is on board of boats; but some of 
 us travel horse-back. As it has not rained 
 since the last Autumn, the water in the river 
 is uncommonly low, on account of which, 
 our boats make but poor progress. As we 
 have a pit saw with us, I have directed 
 some of my people to go into the woods, 
 and saw a sufficient quantity of boards, to 
 construct another boat, by means of which, 
 we may reduce the loading, in those that 
 we now possess. 
 
 Wednesday, 8. Riviere qui Apelle. On the 
 6th Mr. Goedike and several other persons 
 with myself, left our boats, and proceeded 
 on horse-back. As the fire has passed over 
 the plains, this spring, it was with difficulty 
 that we could find grass, sufficient for the 
 subsistence of our horses. 
 
 Monday, 20. Montagne a la Basse. Here 
 I have been waiting ever since the 15th for 
 the arrival of our boats. They arrived this 
 afternoon. 
 
 Monday, 27. Riviere a la Souris, or Mouse 
 River. This is about fifty miles from Mon- 
 tagne a la Basse. Here are three estab- 
 lishments, formed severally by the North 
 West, X. Y. and Hudson Bay companies. 
 
108 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Last evening, Mr. Chaboillez invited the 
 people of the other two forts to a dance ; and 
 we had a real North West country ball. 
 When three fourths of the people had drunk 
 so much, as to be incapable of walking 
 straightly, the other fourth thought it time 
 to put an end to the ball, or rather bawl. 
 This morning, we were invited to breakfast 
 at the Hudson Bay House, with a Mr. Mc- 
 Kay, and in the evening to a dance. This, 
 however, ended more decently, than the one 
 of the preceding evening. 
 
 It is now more than fifty years, since a 
 French missionary left this place. He had, 
 as I am informed, resided here, during a 
 number of years, for the purpose of instruct- 
 ing the Natives in the Christian religion. 
 He taught them some short prayers, in 
 the French language, the whole of which 
 some of them have not yet forgotten. 
 
 The surrounding country consists chiefly 
 of plains; and the soil appears to be richer, 
 than that which is farther up the river. 
 
 Tuesday, 30. In the morning, I left Mouse 
 River ; and I have with me upwards of forty 
 men, in five boats and seven canoes. 
 
 Saturday, June 1. We are now a little 
 below what was called the Pine Fort. It 
 is twenty years since this fort was built, 
 and eleven since it was abandoned. This 
 River is now so low, arising from the fact 
 that we have had no rain this spring, and 
 we have such a number of boats and canoes, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 109 
 
 that we drive the sturgeon upon the sand 
 banks, where there is but httle water ; and we 
 have no difficulty in kilHng any number of 
 them, that we please. We now subsist entirely 
 on these fish ; and they are excellent food. 
 
 Thursday, 13. Portage la Prairie, or 
 Plain Portage, Here the North West com- 
 pany have a miserable fort, the local situa- 
 tion of which, is beautiful, beyond any thing 
 that I have seen in this part of the world. 
 Opposite the fort, there is a plain, which is 
 about sixty miles long, and from one to 
 ten broad, in the whole extent of which, not 
 the least rise of ground is visible.— To this 
 place, the Natives resort every spring, to 
 take and dry sturgeon. 
 
 Saturday, 15. We are now encamped un- 
 der a beautiful range of oaks, which sepa- 
 rate the river from a pretty extensive plain. 
 Ever since we left Mouse Kiver, the soil on 
 each side of the Upper Red River, down which 
 we are passing, appears to be excellent, and 
 the timber is very different from what it is 
 near its source. We here find oak, elm, wal- 
 nut, basswood, «fec. and I am informed that 
 there are grapes and plums in this vicinity. 
 
 Tuesday, 18. Not far from the place 
 where we are now encamped, there is a con- 
 siderably large camp of Sauteux. Among 
 them I saw another of my unfortunate coun- 
 trymen, who, like one of whom I have 
 already spoken, was taken from his parents, 
 when a child. Thus, has many a fond 
 
110 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 mother, in the frontier settlements, been de- 
 prived of her beloved and tender offspring, — 
 but this fellow is lost, beyond recovery, 
 for he now speaks no other language, but 
 that of the Indians, among whom he re- 
 sides, and he has adopted all their manners 
 and customs; and it would now be as 
 difficult to reconcile him to the habits of 
 civilized life, as it would be, were he a real 
 Indian. 
 
 Wednesday, 19. The Forks. At this place 
 the Upper and Lower Red Rivers, form a 
 junction. The country around is pleasant, 
 the soil appears to be excellent, and it is 
 tolerably well timbered with oak, basswood, 
 walnut, elm, poplar, aspin, birch, &c. Grape 
 vines and plum trees are also seen. 
 
 Friday, 21. We are now encamped at 
 the place, where the Red River enters the 
 Great Winipick Lake. It is now nearly five 
 years since I passed this place, which, at 
 first thought, seems but a moment. But 
 when I deliberately recollect the scenes 
 through which I have passed, during that 
 space of time, it seems as if I had passed 
 the greater part of my days in this 
 country. 
 
 Monday, 24. We are now at the entrance 
 of Winipick River, into the Lake of the same 
 name. We, here, find a number of people, 
 who are from their respective winter quar- 
 ters, and who, like ourselves, are on their 
 way to the New Fort. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. Ill 
 
 Friday, July 5. Rainy Lake. On the 
 margin of the waters, which connect this 
 lake with the Great Winipick Lake, the wild 
 rice is found, of which I have spoken on a 
 former occasion. This useful grain is pro- 
 duced in no other part of the North West 
 Country ; though Carver erroneously states, 
 that it is found every where. It grows in 
 water, about two feet deep, where there is 
 a rich muddy bottom. It rises more than 
 eight feet above the water; and, in appear- 
 ance bears a considerable resemblance to oats. 
 It is gathered about the latter end of Sep- 
 tember, in the following manner. The Natives 
 pass in among it in canoes. Each canoe 
 has in it two persons, one of whom is In 
 .each end, with a long hooked stick, in one 
 hand, and a straight one in the other. With 
 the hooked stick, he brings the heads of the 
 grain over the canoe, and holds it there; 
 while, with the other, he beats it out. When 
 the canoe is thus sufficiently loaded, it is 
 taken to the shore and emptied. This mode 
 of gathering the wild rice, is evidently more 
 simple and convenient, than that which was 
 practised in Carver's day. This grain is 
 gathered in such quantities, in this region, 
 that in ordinary seasons, the North West 
 Company purchase, annually, from twelve 
 to fifteen hundred bushels of it, from the 
 Natives; and it constitutes a principal arti- 
 cle of food, at the posts in this vicinity. 
 
 I have here received letters from my friends 
 
112 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 in Yermont, which left them in April last; 
 and which have, as usual, afforded me much 
 satisfaction. 
 
 Saturday, 6. Rainy Lake. We are about 
 ten miles from the fort, on this lake; and 
 have been encamped, during the greater 
 part of the day, in order that our people 
 may repair their canoes; for they will soon 
 be obliged to transport them over a number 
 of long portages. 
 
 Monday, 8. Cross Lake. Here we meet 
 several canoes which, about the beginning of 
 May last, left Montreal, that have goods 
 on board, which will be carried in them to 
 the Rainy Lake fort, and will thence be 
 transported to Athabasca. — At this lake, 
 we leave the route which leads to the old 
 Grand Portage. 
 
 Tuesday, 9. During the whole of this 
 day, we have been crossing small lakes, and 
 coming down what deserve the name of 
 brooks, rather than rivers. — We have met 
 eight canoes, on their way to the Rainy 
 Lake. 
 
 Friday, 12. The Plain Portage. In the 
 former part of the day, we met, A. N. Mc- 
 Leod, Esq. who is now from the New Fort, on 
 his way back to Athabasca. We went on 
 shore, and took breakfast with him. He 
 has taken with him my friend Mr. F. Goe- 
 dike, a young man possessed of a good 
 understanding, and a humane and generous 
 heart, who has been with me for four years 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 113 
 
 past, and from whom I could not separate, 
 without regret. 
 
 Saturday, July 13. Overtook the Swan 
 Kiver people, and entered Nipignon River, 
 which is nearly ten rods broad. This and 
 Dog's river, excepting a few carrying places, 
 on account of rapids and falls, will carry us 
 to the New Fort. The land in this vicinity 
 is low, and in many places, it is swampy. 
 There are few animals in this region, ex- 
 cepting moose, bears, and a few beavers 
 and martins. This is the rout, by which 
 the French, in former times, passed into 
 the interiour. The Indians in this quarter, 
 are a few Sauteux and Muscagoes. The lat- 
 ter, come from towards Hudson's Bay. 
 
 Sunday, 14. Dog's Portage, which is 
 about three miles over. After coming down 
 Nipignon River, which is nearly fifty miles 
 long, we entered the Dog's Lake, which may 
 be about forty miles in circumference, and 
 by crossing which, we arrived at this place. 
 
 Monday, 15. The Mountain Portage. 
 Here the water falls perpendicularly, about 
 seventy feet. The North West company have 
 here a store house, to which they send pro- 
 visions, &c., from the New Fort, as the river 
 from this to that place is generally shallow, 
 and is full of rapids. Those, therefore, who 
 are going into the interiour, cannot take a 
 full load, until they arrive at this place ; and 
 here they usually take their supply of pro- 
 visions. 
 
114 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Tuesday, 16. New Fort, or, as it is called 
 by tlie Natives, Ka-mi-ni-ti-qui-a, is built on 
 the bank of Dog Eiver, which is a consider- 
 able stream, that empties into Lake Supe- 
 riour, about four or five hundred rods below 
 the fort. The vessel that runs on that lake, 
 can come, with a part of her lading, quite 
 up to the quay, before the fort. Here the 
 French, before the English conquered Canada, 
 had an establishment. 
 
 We here meet a number of gentlemen, some 
 of whom came this summer from Montreal, 
 and others from different parts of the Li- 
 teriour. There are also here, one thousand 
 labouring men, the greater part of whom, are 
 Canadians, who answer better in this coun- 
 try, for the service required by the Company, 
 than any other people would probably do. 
 
 The country, for some considerable dis- 
 tance round, is covered with heavy timber, 
 consisting of a kind of red pine, poplar, 
 aspin, birch, cedar, &c., but the soil does not 
 appear to be of the first quality. Potatoes, 
 pease, oats, &c., however, grow tolerably 
 well here. 
 
 Monday, 22. I have passed several days, 
 not unpleasantly, in the company of a num- 
 ber of young gentlemen. They now begin, 
 however, to leave this, to return to their 
 winter quarters ; and to-morrow, I expect to 
 depart, and to proceed for Fort des Prairies. 
 As there will be two other young gentlemen 
 in the same brigade, whom I know to be 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 115 
 
 sociable and pleasant companions, I expect 
 to have a pleasant passage to my winter 
 quarters. 
 
 Wednesday, August 28. During nearly a 
 month past we have been coming through a 
 country, which I have already described. We 
 are now at the Grand Rapid, where the 
 Sisiscatchwin River disembogues into the 
 north west part of Great Lake Winipick. 
 This is a noble stream, about two hundred 
 fathoms broad. 
 
 Thursday, September 5. Cumberland 
 House. This fort stands on the north side of 
 a considerable lake, called by the Natives, 
 who in this vicinity are Muscagoes, Sturgeon 
 Lake. The sturgeon are found in consider- 
 able plenty, in this lake. This post was es- 
 tablished, thirty three years since, by Mr. 
 Joseph Frobisher. At this place, the people 
 who are destined to Fort des Prairies, and 
 those who are proceeding to Athabasca, sep- 
 arate. The former go up the Sisiscatchwin 
 River, and the latter up the English River 
 The latter, is so called, in honour of Mr. 
 Joseph Frobisher, an Englishman, who was 
 the first trader that ever went into that part 
 of the country.— On the 30th ultimo, we 
 crossed Lac Bourbon, which is about forty 
 miles long, on which the North West Com- 
 pany had a fort, formerly ; but it was aban- 
 doned, in 1802. There are few mountains or 
 hills to be seen, between this place and Lake 
 Winipick. The country has a pretty heavy 
 
116 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 growth of timber, and the soil is rich. In the 
 lakes and rivers of this region, excellent fish 
 are taken, such as sturgeon, white-fish, cat- 
 fish, pike, pickerel, «&c. This country abounds 
 in fowls, among which are swans, bustards, 
 geese, and many kinds of ducks. Moose are 
 found in considerable plenty ; there are a few 
 black bears, otters, muskrats and martins; 
 and rarely, a beaver is found. 
 
 Saturday, September 21. South Branch 
 Fort. This is about one hundred and twenty 
 miles above the Fork, or the place where this 
 river forms a junction with the North Branch, 
 after which, it assumes the name of Sisis- 
 catchwin River. Both branches take their 
 rise in the Rocky Mountain, though at a dis- 
 tance of several hundred miles from each 
 other. The South Branch passes through 
 large plains ; but the country through which 
 the other runs is woody, particularly on the 
 north side. From Cumberland House to the 
 Fork, the country on both sides of the river 
 is covered with wood. In these woods, and 
 the small plains that are here and there scat- 
 tered among them, moose, red deer, &c., are 
 to be found. 
 
 This fort was put up the last summer, and 
 two stores were built ; but the dwelling houses 
 are still to be constructed.— I am informed 
 that buffaloes are in plenty within half a 
 day's march from this. There are four tribes 
 of Indians, who come to trade at this estab- 
 lishment. They are the Crees, Assiniboins, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 117 
 
 Sauteux and Muscagoes. A few also of the 
 Black feet Indians resort here. 
 
 In coming up this river, we saw many 
 places, where forts have stood, some of which 
 were abandoned thirty years since, and some 
 at a later period. One, which was situated 
 about six miles below this, was abandoned 
 fifteen years since, on account of an attack 
 from the Rapid Indians. The following cir- 
 cumstances, in regard to that affair, were 
 related to me by Mons. Louis Chattellain, 
 who, at that time, had charge of the fort. 
 The Hudson Bay Company had a fort in the 
 same, neighbourhood, which was first at- 
 tacked, by about one hundred and fifty 
 Indians on horse back; and the few people 
 who were in it, excepting one man, who 
 secreted himself, were killed. After they had 
 taken out of the fort all the property which 
 they could conveniently carry away with 
 them, they set fire to the fort, and proceeded 
 to the establishment of the North West Com- 
 pany, which was two hundred rods distant 
 from that of Hudson Bay people, with the 
 intention of treating it in a similar manner. 
 
 The fort gates had providentially, been 
 shut, previously to the approach of the In- 
 dians. There were in the fort, three men, and 
 several women and children. The men took 
 their stations in the block houses and bas- 
 tions ; and vfhen the Natives had come suffi- 
 ciently near, fired upon them. The Indians, 
 instantly returned the fire; and the contest 
 
118 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 continued, until the night approached. The 
 savage assailants, having had several of their 
 party killed, and others severely wounded, 
 while the people in the fort had sustained no 
 injury, thought it best to retreat ; and after 
 dragging their dead and dying into the river, 
 they retired. But Mr. Chattellain did not 
 think it prudent to remain there any longer. 
 Accordingly, the day following, they em- 
 barked all their property on board of several 
 canoes, and proceeded down the river, about 
 two hundred miles, where they commenced 
 building another fort. The only object of 
 the Indians, in attacking these forts^ was 
 plunder. 
 
 Mr. William Smith and myself, together 
 with fifteen labouring men, &c. are to pass 
 the winter here; and a few hundred paces 
 from us, the Hudson Bay people have a fort. 
 
 Thursday, October 10. This day, a Cana- 
 dian's daughter, a girl of about fourteen 
 years of age, was offered to me; and after 
 mature consideration, concerning the step 
 which I ought to take, I have finally con- 
 cluded to accept of her, as it is customary 
 for all gentlemen who remain, for any len^h 
 of time, in this part of the world, to have 
 a female companion, with whom they can 
 pass their time more socially and agreeably, 
 than to live a lonely life, as they must do, 
 if single. If w^e can live in harmony together, 
 my intention now is, to keep her as long 
 as I remain in this uncivilized part of the 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 119 
 
 world ; and when I return to my native land, 
 I shall endeavour to place her under the 
 protection of some honest man, with whom 
 she can pass the remainder of her days in 
 this country, much more agreeably, than it 
 would be possible for her to do, were she to 
 be taken down into the civilized world, to 
 the manners, customs and language of which, 
 she would be an entire stranger. Her mother 
 is of the tribe of the Snare Indians, whose 
 country lies along the Rocky Mountain. The 
 girl is said to have a mild disposition and 
 an even temper, which are qualities very nec- 
 essary to make an agreeable woman, and an 
 affectionate partner. 
 
 Thursday, November 7. The river froze 
 over the last night; but we have yet had 
 but little snow. 
 
 Saturday, March 15, 1806. This evening 
 the northern express arrived ; and I am sorry 
 to learn that no letters have come from 
 Athabasca, this season. This failure is owing 
 to the great depth of snow in that quarter. — 
 Buffaloes have been found in plenty, within 
 a few miles of the fort, during the whole 
 winter. 
 
 Tuesday, 25. The snow is chiefly dis- 
 solved. We have sent four men, about a 
 day's march from this, to make sugar. 
 
 Saturday, April 19. The greater part of 
 our Indians have gone to wage war upon 
 the Rapid Indians, their inveterate enemies, 
 with whom they frequently patch up a peace, 
 
120 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 wHich, however, is generally of short con- 
 tinuance. 
 
 Monday, 28. This afternoon, the ice in 
 this river broke up. — A few days since, a 
 small war party of the Rapid Indians came 
 and killed several Assiniboins, who were en- 
 camped within fifteen miles of our fort. They 
 also stabbed an old woman in several places, 
 and scalped her, who, notwithstanding, is 
 still alive, and, to appearance, likely to re- 
 cover of her wounds. 
 
 Monday, June 2. Last evening, Messrs. 
 J. Hughes and Alexander Stewart came here, 
 on horse back, from the North Branch) 
 which passes within fifteen miles from this. 
 There, they left their canoes and people; 
 and on their return, they will continue their 
 rout to the New Fort.— Mr. Smith and my- 
 self, if providence permit, are to pass the 
 summer at this place, where we have three 
 interpreters, four labouring men, and a num- 
 ber of women and children. As my com- 
 panion is a sensible, well informed and so- 
 ciable young man, I hope to pass my time 
 both pleasantly and profitably. 
 
 Friday, August 8. Six Assiniboins have 
 arrived, and inform us, that about eighty 
 tents of Crees and Assiniboins, with about 
 as many of the Black feet Indians, were on 
 their way to wage war with the Rapid In- 
 dians, their common enemy. But the two 
 former tribes quarrelled, in their march, re- 
 specting a horse, which they both claimed, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 121 
 
 and which neither would relinquish. This 
 circumstance occasioned a battle between 
 them, which lasted during a day, in which 
 twenty five of the Black feet Indians, and 
 three of the Assiniboins, were killed. This 
 put an end to the expedition, for this 
 season. 
 
 Wednesday, September 3. Two men have 
 arrived from Cumberland House, situated 
 on Sturgeon Lake, who have brought me 
 letters from my friends below, which com- 
 municate the melancholy intelligence, that 
 my father, after a severe illness of but a 
 few weeks, expired, on the 25th of June, 
 1805. The protector and guide of my youth, 
 whom I revered and loved, I shall never 
 more see in this world. It would have af- 
 forded me inexpressible satisfaction, could I 
 have seen and conversed with him, previously 
 to his departure. But "the Judge of the 
 earth has done right," and "his will be 
 done." I am not left to mourn, under this 
 severe bereavement, without consolation ; for 
 his christian character and profession, afford 
 the comfortable hope, that he has ceased to 
 sin and to suffer, and now participates in 
 blessedness, such as this miserable world can- 
 not afford. May his pious example stimu- 
 late me, and his other children, to follow 
 him in the path which conducts to a better 
 world. 
 
 I have also received letters from Mr. A. 
 N. McLeod, and Mr. J. McDonald, which in- 
 
122 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 form me, that I am to pass the ensuing 
 winter at Cumberland House, for which place, 
 I shall leave this, a few days hence. 
 
 Thursday, September 11. Cumberland 
 House. I arrived here this afternoon, and 
 find Messrs. J. Hughes, and David Thomp- 
 son, &c. who have just arrived from the 
 New Fort, and who are on their way to 
 Fort des Prairies. The Hudson Bay people 
 have a fort within a hundred rods of ours, 
 in the charge of Mr. Peter Fidler. 
 
 Wednesday, 17. Sent Mons. Peras and 
 company, with a small assortment of goods, 
 to go and pass the winter at Moose Lake, 
 which is situated about two days' march 
 from this, and nearly west from Lake Winni- 
 pick. 
 
 The Lidians, who resort to this estab- 
 lishment, are Sauteux and Muscagoes. Moose 
 and black bears are pretty abundant in this 
 vicinity; and a few beavers are found. We 
 subsist principally upon sturgeon and white 
 fish, which we take out of the lake. Geese 
 and bustards are numerous, in the fall and 
 spring. The surrounding country is very 
 low and level, so that, at some seasons, 
 much of it is overflowed. This accounts for 
 the periodical influx and reflux of the water, 
 between this lake and the Sisiscatchwin 
 River, which are distant six miles. 
 
 Friday, October 3. Hudson Bay people, 
 in three canoes, have just arrived from York 
 Factory. They bring late news from Eng- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 123 
 
 land; and inform us, that war continues to 
 rage as much as ever, on the continent of 
 Europe. 
 
 Friday, 24. We have now about four 
 inches of snow; and, the last night, the 
 greater part of this lake froze over.— I have 
 sent people to the other side of this lake to 
 fish for sturgeon, which will weigh from ten 
 to one hundred pounds. They are taken in 
 spread nets, which is the manner in which 
 we generally take all kinds of fish, in this 
 country. Some kinds, however, such as trout, 
 cat fish and pike, we at times take, by set- 
 ting hooks and lines. 
 
 Friday, January 30, 1807. Two of the 
 Hudson Bay people arrived from Fort des 
 Prairies, who were so obliging as to bring 
 me letters from several gentlemen in that 
 quarter. The greater part of the North 
 West and Hudson Bay people, live on ami- 
 cable terms; and when one can with pro- 
 priety render a service to the other, it is 
 done with cheerfulness. 
 
 Sunday, April 5. The ice in the Sisiscatch- 
 win river, is broken up ; and the great quan- 
 tity of snow which has recently been dis- 
 solved, has caused that river to rise so high, 
 as to give another course to a small river, 
 which generally takes its water out of this 
 lake, but which now runs into it. 
 
 Saturday, May 23. This lake is free from 
 ice; and we have planted potatoes, and 
 sowed our garden seeds.— Geese have returned 
 
124 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 from the south, and we now have them in 
 plenty. 
 
 Saturday, 30. Mr. John McDonald and 
 others, in seven canoes, have just arrived 
 from Fort des Prairies, and are on their 
 way to the New Fort. 
 
 Sunday, June 7. Grand Bapid. On the 
 1st inst. Mr. John McDonald, myself and 
 other people, in seven canoes and one boat, 
 left Cumberland House and arrived here, on 
 the 15th, where we have ever since been, 
 stopped by the ice in Lake Winnipick, which 
 is not yet broken up. — We here spwar as many 
 sturgeon as we please, as they are going 
 up or down the rapid, which is about six 
 miles in length. 
 
 Monday, 8. Lake Winnipick. The last 
 night there arose a strong north west wind, 
 which broke up the ice, and drove it to the 
 north east part of the lake. We, therefore, 
 embarked this morning, and have sailed all 
 day. 
 
 Tuesday, 16. White River. In the morn- 
 ing we left the fort, at the entrance of Lake 
 Winnipick River, and this afternoon, Mr. A. 
 N. McLeod and company, from Athabasca, 
 overtook us. With this gentleman, to whom 
 I am under many obligations, I am happy 
 to spend an evening, after so long a sepa- 
 ration. 
 
 Saturday, July 4. New Fort. Once more, 
 I have arrived at the general rendezvous, 
 and find myself among my friends and ac- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 125 
 
 quaintances, from different parts of the coun- 
 try.— Here I have received letters from my 
 friends below, which inform me of their health 
 and reasonable prosperity. It is a great 
 satisfaction thus to hear from them; but 
 this satisfaction would be greatly increased, 
 could I be permitted to see and converse 
 with them. Although the seven years, for 
 which I was under an engagement to the 
 North West Company, have now expired, I 
 cannot with the least degree of propriety, as 
 I think, gratify the ardent desire which I 
 have of seeing my friends, by going down 
 this year. And when the happy time will 
 come, that I shall visit them, God only 
 knows. It is trying to a person who has the 
 least affection for his friends, to be separated 
 from them, for such a series of years, in such 
 a savage country. My duty and happiness, 
 however, require that I endeavour to make 
 the best of my situation. Notwithstanding 
 the bad examples which we daily witness, a 
 person can be as virtuous in this, as in any 
 other part of the world. True it is, if a per- 
 son were here to lead a really religious life, 
 he would find but few associates, who would 
 directly encourage him in his course. But 
 this is in a great measure true in every part 
 of the world. 
 
 Sunday, July 19. This, which was former- 
 ly called the New Fort, is now named Fort 
 William, in honour of William McGilvray, 
 Esq. the head agent of the North West Com^ 
 
126 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 pany. At the time of giving this name, the 
 Company made a present to their Voyagers, 
 of a considerable quantity of spirits, shrub, 
 &c. and also a similar present to the Indians, 
 encamped about the fort. 
 
 As I am still in ill health, I shall pass the 
 winter with Doctor McLaughlin, at Sturgeon 
 Lake, in the department of Nipigon, which 
 lies to the north west from this. 
 
 Saturday, 2b. This afternoon, in company 
 with three canoes, I left Fort William; and 
 we are now encamped on an island, in Lake 
 Superiour. 
 
 Monday, August 3. First long Portage 
 in the Xipigon Road. We yesterday, sepa- 
 rated from Messrs. Chaboillez and Leith, who 
 have gone to winter at the Pic and Michip- 
 cotton ; and to day, we left Lake Superiour, 
 and have come up a small river. 
 
 Tuesday, 4. South west end of Lake Xipi- 
 gon. This lake is said to be one hundred 
 and fifty miles in length, and from one, to 
 twenty, broad. Trout are here taken, supe- 
 riour to those that are found in any other 
 part of the North West country, which will 
 weigh upwards of seventy pounds, and are 
 of an excellent quality. — The country through 
 which we have passed in coming to this place 
 from Lake Superiour, is rocky and contains 
 but little wood, of any kind. Whortleberries 
 are found in plenty. 
 
 Friday, 7. Fort Duncan, at the north end 
 of Lake Xipigon. The surrounding country 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 127 
 
 is very rough ; but where the ground is arable 
 the soil appears to be good. — Moose and 
 carriboo are found in this vicinity ; and there 
 are, also, a few black bears, beavers, otters, 
 muskrats, martins, &c. Great numbers of 
 white fish are taken out of the lake, par- 
 ticularly in the fall of the year. These are 
 hung up by their tails, in the open air, and 
 are preserved good, in a frozen state, during 
 the winter. Most people prefer those that 
 have been thus kept, to fish that are taken 
 immediately out of the water. 
 
 Sunday, 9. In the morning, we sent off 
 three canoes, and in the after part of the 
 day, some of the people returned, with the 
 melancholy intelligence, that one of their 
 companions was drowned, in going up a 
 small rapid. The canoe overset, and most 
 of the property on board, was lost. The 
 other persons, who were in it, saved them- 
 selves by swimming to the shore. 
 
 Thursday, 13. In the morning, Mr. Hol- 
 dane, the Doctor and myself, with our com- 
 pany, left fort Duncan, where Mr. R. Mc- 
 Kenzie will pass the ensuing winter. There, 
 also, we separated from two Messrs. Camer- 
 ons, whose route is northward, towards Hud- 
 son's Bay. Our course is nearly south west. 
 
 Monday, 24. Portage du Fort, or Stur- 
 geon Lake. Here, we arrived, yesterday ; and 
 this morning, Mr. Holdane and his com- 
 pany left us, to continue their route to Red 
 Lake. The Doctor and I, with our company, 
 
128 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 shall leave this tomorrow, to go and build 
 at the other end of this lake, which may be 
 about forty miles long, and from one to five 
 broad. — The country through which we have 
 passed, since we left Fort Duncan, is low and 
 level; no mountains, or even hills, are to 
 be seen; in many places it is swampy, and 
 small lakes and ponds and rivers and brooks 
 are numerous. Where the land is dry, the 
 soil appears to be principally a black loam. — 
 This tract of country was formerly well 
 stocked with beavers and otters; but they 
 have now become scarce, as they have been 
 hunted by the Natives, during more than the 
 last hundred years. Moose and carriboo are 
 still considerably numerous, in this region. 
 
 Tuesday, September 1. Our people are 
 erecting houses for our winter habitations. 
 We now take white fish in considerable num- 
 bers. — The Indians, who frequent this post, 
 are Sauteux and Muscagoes. 
 
 Saturday, October 3. We sent people to 
 the other end of this lake, to make a fall 
 fishery. They will take white fish, trout, 
 pike, carp, &c., which constitutes the prin- 
 cipal food for those who are in the Nipigon 
 country. In this country, which is at least 
 seven hundred miles long and five or six 
 hundred broad, more people have starved to 
 death, than in all the rest of the Indian 
 country. At this lake, several years since, 
 eleven Canadians lost their lives for want of 
 food. We experience at present, no difficulty 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 129 
 
 in this respect ; and I am of opinion that 
 the distresses of our predecessors were, in a 
 considerable measure, owing to the want of 
 good management. 
 
 Monday, November 9. Our people have 
 returned, and inform us, that they have 
 caught only fourteen hundred fish of all de- 
 scriptions. These, however, with what corn, 
 flour, wild rice and meat we have, together 
 with the trout which we hope to take with 
 set hooks and lines, as soon as the lake is 
 frozen over, will, we expect, furnish us with 
 a comfortable subsistence, during the winter. 
 We are in a solitary place, where we see no 
 one, excepting the Natives; and they are 
 few in number, compared with those, among 
 whom I have formerly been. Happily for us, 
 we have a few good books; and in perusing 
 them, we shall pass the greater part of the 
 time. The Doctor, who is of about the same 
 age with myself, is an excellent companion, 
 and fond of conversation; and I trust, that 
 a friendly intercourse will mutually cheer our 
 spirits, and that we shall spend the winter 
 in a manner, that will be both pleasant and 
 profitable. — We have now about four inches 
 of snow, which will probably remain with 
 us through the winter. 
 
 Sunday, 15. The last night, this lake froze 
 over. 
 
 Friday, December 4. We now take great 
 numbers of excellent trout from under the 
 ice, with hooks and lines. 
 
 9 
 
130 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Early this morning, the woman whom I 
 have taken to reside with me, became the 
 mother of a boy, whom I name George 
 Harmon. 
 
 Monday, December 28. Doctor McLaugh- 
 lin, accompanied by two Canadians and one 
 of the Natives, has gone to visit Mr. Hol- 
 dane, at Red Lake. 
 
 Friday, February 19, 1808. The Doctor 
 and company have returned, from their long 
 jaunt; and I am happy in again enjoying 
 his society, after a season of comparative 
 loneliness. 
 
 Another year of my life is gone, which 
 makes me thirty years of age. This anni- 
 versary leads me to reflect on the rapid flight 
 of time, and the brevity of human life. When 
 I attentively consider these things, it seems 
 surprising that we should encounter so much 
 difficulty and labour in the acquisition of 
 property, which, if it could minister more 
 effectually to our enjoyment than it does, 
 we must very soon relinquish forever. 
 
 Friday, May 13. The Doctor, with one 
 man in a small canoe, has set off for Fort 
 William, where he will be wanted, as soon 
 as he can arrive, to attend on the sick. 
 Among the great number who visit that 
 rendezvous every summer, there are always 
 some, who need medical aid ; though I firmly 
 believe, that no part of the world is more 
 healthy than this.— The Doctor has not been 
 able to learn, to his satisfaction, what my 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 131 
 
 complaint is. I think that the medicines, 
 which I have taken, in the course of the win- 
 ter, have been of essential service to me ; and 
 I hope, before long to regain my former 
 state of good health. 
 
 The Indians of this place have subsisted^ 
 during the greater part of the past winter, 
 upon hares.— There is an old Sauteux woman 
 here, who compels her own son to have 
 criminal intercourse with her. 
 
 Thursday, June 9. Portage du Fort. 
 Here, we shall wait the arrival of the people 
 of this department ; and we shall then con- 
 tinue our route, with them to Fort WilUam. 
 It is nine months and fifteen days since I 
 passed this place, the last autumn, in going 
 into the country, which evinces that our 
 winter has been long; and I may add too, 
 that it has been dreary. But we have rea- 
 son to be thankful to God, that we have 
 not suffered at all, for the want of the means 
 of subsistence. 
 
 Wednesda,y,22. Fort Duncan. The people 
 for whom we were waiting at Portage du 
 Fort, arrived on the 12th, and the day 
 following, we set out for this place, which we 
 reached this afternoon. 
 
 Saturday, 25. Yesterday, we left fort Dun- 
 can, and came to an island in Lake Nipigon, 
 on which we are now encamped, and where 
 we intend to pass a few days, in fishing for 
 trout, which are here in plenty, and are of 
 an excellent quality. 
 
132 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Thursday, July 7. Yesterday morning, I 
 arrived at Fort William, where I had only 
 time to read mj letters from my friends be- 
 low, and answer them, and prepare myself 
 for a long journey. This afternoon I em- 
 barked for Athabasca, in company with Mr. 
 J. G. McTavish; and both of us are to re- 
 main at the place of our destination, for 
 three years, at least. 
 
 Wednesday, 20. Rmny Lake. We here 
 find all the Athabasca people, excepting one 
 brigade, which is expected daily. 
 
 Saturday, 22. Ever since my arrival 
 here, we have been busily employed in pre- 
 paring to leave this place, for our winter 
 quarters. 
 
 Tuesday, 26. Rainy Lake River. In the 
 morning, I left the fort in company with 
 Mr. Archibald McGillivray. Our brigade con- 
 sists of ten canoes. 
 
 Friday, 29. Portage de Ulsle, in Winni- 
 pick River. In the morning, we met Mr. 
 David Thomson ' and company from the 
 Columbia River. 
 
 Monday, August 1. Lake Winnipick. This 
 morning, we arrived at the fort on this lake, 
 where we remained until noon. While there, 
 I wrote to my old friend Mr. William Henry, 
 who is at the Lower Red River. I also 
 received a letter from him, in which he in- 
 forms me, that his fort was attacked this 
 summer, by a considerable party of Sieux. 
 Two shots, from cannon in the block houses, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. - US 
 
 however, caused them to retire, in doing 
 which, they threatened that they would be- 
 fore long, return and make another attempt 
 to take the fort. — The Sieux are a numerous 
 tribe of Indians, who are scattered over a 
 large tract of land, that lies between the 
 Mississippi and Missouri rivers ; and they are 
 said to be the greatest villains, in this part 
 of the world. They are the same tribe that 
 Carver distinguishes, by the name of Naudo- 
 wesseis. 
 
 Saturday, 6. Grand Rapid, at the north 
 west end of Lake Winnipick. The wind has 
 been high, during the day ; and in the latter 
 part of it, one of our canoes filled with water. 
 Happily, it was near an island, when this 
 disaster happened. The people were, how- 
 ever, under the necessity of throwing a part 
 of their property overboard. 
 
 We find here Mons. Perigne, who was for- 
 merly a clerk to the North West Company, 
 but who, as he informs me, has lately been 
 to Canada, and has come up on his own 
 account. He has brought up a few goods, 
 to enable him to carry on a small traffick 
 with the Natives. He, also, intends, occasion- 
 ally to hunt the beaver, &c., himself. But 
 I am convinced, that, at this great distance 
 from the place of market for furs, the trade 
 cannot be profitably carried on, unless it 
 be done on a large scale, which requires a 
 greater capital than an individual can em- 
 bark in this undertaking. The experiment 
 
134 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 has been made, in a number of instances; 
 and it has uniformly failed. 
 
 Friday, 12. Cumberland House. From 
 this place, I shall take a route, which I have 
 never before travelled. 
 
 Saturday, IS. Entrance of River Maligne, 
 or Bad Eiver. This is a considerable river, 
 which runs into Sturgeon Lake. 
 
 Sunday, 14. Beaver Lake. The greater 
 part of the day, we have employed in com- 
 ing up the river last mentioned, which, 
 through its whole course, has a continual 
 succession of rapids. The country around is 
 low, and the timber, like that of the North 
 West country generally, is small. 
 
 Tuesday, 16. Pelican Lake. Most of the 
 day has been passed in crossing Lac Mar- 
 tin. 
 
 Wednesday, 17. Portage du Forte de 
 Traite, or Trading Fort Portage. This was 
 so named, from a circumstance which occurred 
 here, thirty four years since. Mr. Joseph 
 Frobisher and company, who were the first 
 traders who ever came into this quarter, 
 here met a large band of Natives, whose 
 canoes were loaded with furs, which they 
 were taking to York Factory, at Hudson's 
 Bay. He succeeded in bartering his goods 
 for their furs, which amounted to more than 
 he could take to headquarters, the next sea- 
 son. He therefore built a fort, and, with his 
 people passed several winters here; and at 
 that time, it was the most northern post, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 135 
 
 belonging either to the North West, or the 
 Hudson Bay Company. 
 
 All the waters from this side of the port- 
 age, pass through Lake Winnipick, and 
 finally fall into Hudson's Bay, at York Fac- 
 tory. But, on the other side of the portage, 
 which is about half a mile over, the stream, 
 which is called Mis-sin-ni-pi or Great River, 
 runs in a different direction, and enters Hud- 
 son's Bay, at Churchill Factory, which is the 
 most northern post belonging to the Hudson 
 Bay Company. The river last mentioned, 
 is called, by the Hudson Bay people, Church- 
 ill River, and by the people from Canada, 
 English River. 
 
 Thursday, August 18. This afternoon we 
 obtained some dried meat from the Natives, 
 which we find much more palatable than the 
 salted provisions, on which we have subsisted, 
 ever since we left Fort William. In the In- 
 teriour we never make use of salted pro- 
 visions; not, however, for want of salt, which 
 is found in most parts of the country, and 
 which can be obtained in plenty, at all our 
 establishments. 
 
 Tuesday, 23. Isle a la Cross Lake. Ever 
 since we left Portage du Forte de Traite, we 
 have been in what may with propriety, be 
 called the English River, though it passes 
 through several small lakes; and in this 
 river, our way has been obstructed by thirty 
 six portages. 
 
 Thursday, 25. Isle la Cross fort. This 
 
136 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 fort stands on the north side of the lake of 
 the same name, is well built and has at- 
 tached to it an excellent kitchen garden. 
 Out of the lake, the best of white fish are 
 taken, during the whole jear; and it is the 
 only place in this country, in which these 
 fish can be taken, at all seasons.— The In- 
 dians who come to this establishment, are 
 Chippewyans, in considerable numbers, and 
 a few Crees. I am informed that there are, 
 in this vicinity, many moose and cariboo, 
 and a few black bears, beavers, otters, cats, 
 &c. The country is low; and scarcely any 
 mountains are to be seen. 
 
 Tueschiy, 30. East end of Portage la 
 Loche, or Loach Portage. This is so named, 
 from a neighbouring lake, where these fish are 
 taken, in abundance. This portage is twelve 
 miles over; and across it, the people are 
 obliged to transport both canoes and lading. 
 The road, however, is excellent, through a 
 level country, thinly wooded with cypress. 
 In coming here from Isle la Cross, we have 
 passed two considerable lakes, and come up 
 a small river, which is between those lakes. 
 The country through which we have passed, 
 is generally level, and the soil is tolerably 
 good. The streams, before we cross this 
 portage, discharge themselves into Hudson's 
 Bay at Churchill Factory; but afterward, 
 the water, after passing through Athabasca, 
 Great Slave, and other lakes, enters the 
 North Sea. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 137 
 
 Sajturday, September 3. North west end of 
 Portage la Loche. We here find a small 
 band of Chippewyans, who assist our people 
 in transporting our property across the port- 
 age, and who supply us with provisions, 
 which we very much need, since our former 
 stock is nearly exhausted. 
 
 About a mile from this end of the portage 
 is a hill, which towers majestically, to the 
 height of a thousand feet, above the plain 
 below; and which commands a most exten- 
 sive and delightful prospect. Two lofty and 
 extensive ridges, enclose a valley, about 
 three miles in width, which stretches, far as 
 the eye can reach. The Little Kiver, which is, 
 also, by different persons, denominated Swan, 
 Clear water, or Pelican River, winds, in a 
 most delightful manner, along this charming 
 valley. The majestick forests, which wave 
 upon these ridges, the delightful verdure of 
 the intervening lawn, and the beautiful 
 stream, which wanders along through it, 
 giving a pleasing variety to the scene, until 
 these objects become blended with the hori- 
 zon, form, on the whole, the most delightful, 
 natural scenery, that I ever beheld. 
 
 Sun del J, 4. In the morning, we left the 
 Portage; and are now in Little Athabasca 
 River; which is about twenty rods wide. 
 
 Tuesday, 6. We are now in the Great 
 Athabasca River, which is about three quar- 
 ters of a mile in breadth. In the early part 
 of the day, we passed the Fork, where Little 
 
138 HAKMON"S JOUENAL. 
 
 Athabasca river and Bed deer, or as some 
 call it, Elk river, form a junction.— At a small 
 distance from Portage la Loche, the naviga- 
 tion of the river is interrupted by several 
 carrying places, in about the middle of which,, 
 are some mineral springs, that are evidently 
 impregnated with sulphur, as appears by the 
 incrustations on their margins. At about 
 twenty miles from the Fork, several bitu- 
 minous fountains are found, into which a 
 pole of twenty feet in length, may be plunged, 
 without the least resistance. The bitumen, 
 which is in a fluid state, is mixed with gum, 
 or the resinous substance collected from the 
 spruce fir, and is used for gumming canoes. 
 WTien heated, it emits a smell, like that of 
 sea coal.— There are some places, along this 
 river, which are of many miles in extent, 
 where there is scarcely a tree standing. They 
 were killed by the fire, and were then thrown 
 down by the winds. At these places, a few 
 buffaloes, moose and cariboo, are found. 
 
 Wednesdaj^, 7. Fort Chippewvmi. This 
 fort stands on a rocky point, at the south 
 western end of Athabasca Lake, or, as some 
 call it, the Lake of the Hills.— This is the 
 general rendezvous for all Athabasca. Here 
 the goods are set apart for all the different 
 posts, in this extensive department; and to 
 this place, the greater number of persons 
 who have the charge of these posts, come 
 every fall, to receive their merchandise from 
 those, who have brought it from the Rainy 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 139 
 
 Lake.— This place is in N. Lat. 58° 40' and 
 W. Long. 111°. 
 
 A few Crees, and a greater number of 
 Chippewyans, resort to this estabUshment. 
 The latter tribe were accustomed, formerly, 
 to take their furs to Churchill Factory, at 
 Hudson's Bay. They were, generally, six 
 months in performing the journey; and many 
 of them have actually starved to death, on 
 their return home, as the country through 
 which they passed, is almost destitute of 
 game. — This lake is, in no part of it, more 
 than fifteen miles wide; but it is, at least, 
 two hundred miles long, and extends east- 
 wardly, toward Churchill Factory. 
 
 About sixty miles from this, down Slave 
 Kiver, there are several places, where almost 
 any quantity of excellent, clean, white salt 
 may be taken, with as much ease, as sand, 
 along the sea shore. From these places, the 
 greater part of the North West is supplied 
 with this valuable article. 
 
 The country around this place, is low and 
 level, and, in the spring of the year, much 
 of it is covered with water. A few moose are 
 found, in this vicinity; but, the fish of the 
 lake form the principal dependence for food, 
 and they are abundant, and of an excellent 
 quality.— Every fall and spring, bustards and 
 geese are found in greater numbers, than in 
 any other part of the North West. 
 
 Wednesday, 21. Ever since my arrival in 
 this place, people, from almost every corner 
 
140 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 of this extensive department, have been 
 flocking in, some of whom are from more 
 than a thousand miles down McKenzie's 
 River, which is nearlv north west from this. 
 Others are from Great Slave Lake and Peace 
 River. Mr. Simon Frazer has just returned 
 from the Pacific Ocean. The last spring, ac- 
 companied by two other gentlemen, twelve 
 Canadians, and two of the Natives, he set 
 out from New Caledonia, on the west side of 
 the Rocky Mountain, on this tour. Mr. 
 Frazer states, that his party met with some 
 ill treatment from the Indians who live along 
 the sea coast, but that they were hospitably 
 received by those who reside farther up the 
 country. The Indians in that quarter, he 
 says, are less scattered than those who live 
 on this side of the Rocky Mountain, and 
 reside, not in tents, but in houses or huts, 
 constructed of wood. He also reports, that 
 the country through which they passed, is 
 far from being well stocked with beavers, 
 or any other kind of animals; and that the 
 Natives subsist principally upon fish. 
 
 Thursday, 22. This afternoon, in com- 
 pany with a number of persons, in several 
 canoes, I left Fort Chippewyan; and, after 
 coming two miles in Athabasca Lake, we en- 
 tered a small river, which is about thirty 
 six miles long, and which now runs out of 
 that Lake into Peace river; but, when this 
 river is high, it discharges itself into the 
 Lake. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 141 
 
 Friday, 23. Peace River. This river is 
 about seventy rods in breadth, and has a 
 gentle current. It rises on the west side of 
 the Rocky Mountain, at the distance of 
 nearly a thousand miles from this. Below 
 this, it assumes the name of Slave River; 
 and, after a course of one hundred and forty 
 or fifty miles, it discharges itself into Great 
 Slave Lake. 
 
 Sunday, October 2. Fort Vermillion. To 
 this post, great numbers of Beaver Indians 
 bring their furs; and there are a few Iro- 
 quois, also, from Canada, who hunt in this 
 vicinity. — About sixty miles below this, where 
 the river is about thirty rods wide, there is a 
 fall, of about twenty feet. Through the whole 
 course, from this fall, nearly to the Rocky 
 Mountain, at a little distance from the river, 
 on each side, there are plains of considerable 
 extent, which afford pasture for numerous 
 herds of the buffaloe, the red deer or elk, 
 and a few moose. Great numbers of black 
 bears are found, that feed on the berries, 
 which are abundant on the hills, on both 
 sides of the river. 
 
 Friday, 7. Encampment island Fort. 
 This place is, also established, for the purpose 
 of trading with the Beaver Indians. They 
 are the only Indians who live along this 
 noble river, excepting a few Crees, who oc- 
 casionally come to this quarter, from the 
 Lesser Slave Lake. 
 
 Monday, 10. Bunvegan. This is a well 
 
142 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 built fort, pleasantly situated, with plains on 
 each side of the river, in N. Lat. 56° and 
 W. Lon. 119^. 
 
 About the Fort a number of Iroquois 
 hunters and a band of Beaver Indians, have 
 encamped, who have been waiting our ar- 
 rival, in order to obtain the articles which 
 they need. At this place I expect to pass the 
 ensuing winter. There will, also, be here, 
 Messrs. D. McTavish, J. G. McTavish, J. 
 McGillivray, thirty two labouring men, nine 
 women and several children, which renders 
 this place very different from my solitary 
 abode the last winter. 
 
 Our principal food will be the flesh of the 
 buffaloe, moose, red deer and bear. We have 
 a tolerably good kitchen garden ; and we are 
 in no fear that we shall want the means of a 
 comfortable subsistence. Wehave,also, a pro- 
 vision for the entertainment and improve- 
 ment of our minds, in a good collection of 
 books. The gentlemen who are to remain 
 with me, are enlightened, sociable and pleas- 
 ant companions; and I hope, therefore, to 
 spend a pleasant and a profitable winter. 
 
 Friday, 14. This morning, my old friend 
 Mr. F. Goedike, whom I have been happy to 
 meet at this place, left us, with his company, 
 for St. Johns, which is about one hundred 
 and twenty miles up this river, where he is 
 to pass the ensuing winter. 
 
 Saturday, November 12. About a foot of 
 snow has fallen. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 143 
 
 Tuesday, December 20. During the last 
 night, this river froze over; and, at nine 
 o'clock this morning, the thermometer was 
 at 40 degrees below 0. 
 
 Wednesday, January 4, 1809. Sent the 
 express to the Lesser Slave Lake, which lies 
 about two hundred and fifty miles to the 
 south east from this, whence it will be for- 
 warded to -Fort des Prairies. 
 
 Wednesday, March 1. A band of our In- 
 dians have come in, who went a considerable 
 distance to the northward, the last autumn, 
 in search of beavers. They state, that where 
 they were, the snow fell to an extraordinary 
 depth, in consequence of which, they suffered 
 greatly for want of provisions. In this vi- 
 cinity, the snow was, at no time, more than 
 two feet and an half deep. 
 
 Monday, 20. The snow is fast dissolving.— 
 Mr. A. R. McLeod and company, have just 
 arrived from the Encampment Island; and 
 they bring the melancholy intelligence of the 
 death of Mr. Andrew McKenzie, natural son 
 of Sir Alexander McKenzie. He expired at 
 Fort Vermillion, on the 1st inst. The death 
 of this amiable young man, is regretted by 
 all who knew him.— They, also, inform us, 
 that several Canadians have lost their lives 
 by famine, in the vicinity of Great Slave 
 Lake. Those who survived, were under the 
 necessity of subsisting, several days, upon 
 the flesh of their dead companions. It is 
 reported, that one man killed his wife and 
 
144 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 child, in order to supply himself with food, 
 who, afterwards, himself starved to death. 
 These Canadians came up into this part of 
 the world, free, to hunt the beaver, &c. and 
 they were at too great a distance from our 
 establishments, to receive any aid from us, 
 until it was too late, for the greater part of 
 them. 
 
 It is not unfrequently the case, that, the 
 surviving part of a band of the Natives, sub- 
 sist upon the flesh of their dead companions, 
 when compelled to do it for want of other 
 food, sufiicient to sustain life. I know a 
 woman who, it is said ate of no less than 
 fourteen of her friends and relations, during 
 one winter. In the summer season, the In- 
 dians can find food, almost any where; but 
 the case is far otherTvise, when the ground is 
 covered with snow, to the depth of several 
 feet. 
 
 Wednesday, 22. Sent people to look for 
 birch bark, to make canoes, to take out our 
 returns to the Rainy Lake. The greater part 
 of the canoes, in which we bring our mer- 
 chandise into the country, will not answer 
 to transport our furs below. 
 
 Thursday, April 6. The weather is mild. 
 The people, whom we sent for bark, have re- 
 turned, with one hundred and eighty fathoms, 
 which will make nine canoes, that will carry 
 about two tons burthen, each. Two men 
 will easily transport one of them on their 
 shoulders, across the portages. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 145 
 
 Tuesday, 11. Geese and bustards begin to 
 come from the south. 
 
 Tuesday, 18. This morning, the ice in this 
 river broke up. 
 
 Saturday, May 6. The surrounding plains 
 are all on fire.— We have planted our pota- 
 toes, and sowed most of our garden seeds.— 
 Our people are preparing to set out for the 
 Eainy Lake. 
 
 Thursday, 11. We, yesterday, sent off 
 eleven canoes, loaded with the returns of this 
 place and of St. John's ; and, early this morn- 
 ing, Messrs. D. McTavish, J. G. McTavish, 
 F. Goedike and J. McGillivray, embarked on 
 board of two light canoes, bound for the 
 Rainy Lake and Fort William. But I am to 
 pass the ensuing summer, at this place.— The 
 last winter was, to me, the most agreeable 
 one that I have yet spent in this country. 
 The greatest harmony prevailed among us, 
 the days ghded on smoothly, and the winter 
 passed, almost imperceptibly, away. 
 
 Tuesday, 16. In the morning, Messrs. 
 Simon Frazer and James McDougall and 
 company, arrived, in four canoes. The former 
 gentleman came from the Rocky Mountain 
 Portage, which is about one hundred and 
 eighty miles, up this River. The later is from 
 New Caledonia, on the west side of the Rocky 
 Mountain, which is distant from this, about 
 four hundred and fifty miles. After passing 
 the most of the day with me, they con- 
 tinued their route toward the Rainy Lake. 
 
 lO 
 
146 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Friday, June 2. The seeds which we sowed 
 in the garden, have sprung up, and grow re- 
 markably well. The present prospect is, 
 that strawberries, red raspberries, shad ber- 
 ries, cherries, &c., will be abundant, this sea- 
 son. 
 
 This river since the beginning of May, has 
 risen twelve feet perpendicularly ; and it still 
 continues to rise. This circumstance arises, 
 in part, from the large quantity of rain, 
 which has lately fallen, but more, I presume, 
 from the dissolving of the snow, on and near 
 the Rocky Mountain. 
 
 Tuesday, 13. An Indian has come here, 
 who says, that one of their chiefs has lately 
 died ; and he requests that we furnish a chief's 
 clothing to be put on him, that he may be 
 decently interred; and, also, that we would 
 supply a small quantity of spirits, for his 
 relations and friends to drink, at his inter- 
 ment; all of which I have sent, for the de- 
 ceased was a friendly Indian. Nothing pleases 
 an Indian better, than to see his deceased 
 relatives, handsomely attired; for he be- 
 lieves that they will arrive in the other world, 
 in the same dress, with which they are clad, 
 when they are consigned to the grave. 
 
 Wednesday, July 19. A few days since, 
 Mr. John Stuart and company, came here, 
 from New Caledonia, for goods ; and to day, 
 they set out on their return home. During 
 the few days which that gentleman passed 
 here, I derived much satisfaction from his 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 147 
 
 society. We rambled about the plains, con- 
 versing as we went, and now and then stop- 
 ping, to eat a few berries, which are every 
 where to be found. He has evidently read 
 and reflected much. How happy should I be 
 to have such a companion, during the whole 
 summer. But such is our mode of life in 
 this country, that we meet but seldom ; and 
 the time that we remain together, is short. 
 We only begin to find the ties of friendship, 
 binding us closely together, when we are 
 compelled to separate, not to meet again 
 perhaps for years to come. 
 
 Baptiste La Fleur, my interpreter, will 
 accompany Mr. Stuart and his men, as far as 
 St. John's, in hopes of obtaining some in- 
 formation respecting his brother, who, it is 
 supposed, was killed by an Indian, the last 
 spring, while on his was from the Rocky 
 Mountain Portage to St. John's. 
 
 Wednesday, July 19. Baptiste La Fleur 
 has returned from St. Johns, without having 
 been able to obtain the least intelhgence, re- 
 specting his poor brother, and the two In- 
 dians, who were coming down the river, in 
 the same canoe with him. We are, therefore, 
 apprehensive that all three of them have 
 been drowned, in coming down the rapids, 
 as their canoe was made of the bark of the 
 spruce fir tree, and was, therefore, very 
 weak. 
 
 Friday, 21. We have cut down our bar- 
 ley; and I think it is the finest that I ever 
 
148 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 saw in any country. The soil on the points 
 of land, along this river is excellent. 
 
 The mother of the chief, who died this 
 summer, and who is far advanced in years, 
 now remains in a tent, at the distance of a 
 few rods from the fort. Many of the Natives, 
 of both sexes, when they become old and in- 
 firm, and unable to travel with their rela- 
 tions, who depend upon the chase for sub- 
 sistence, and are frequently moving from 
 place to place, settle down near our fort; 
 and it is easy for us to render them more 
 effectual aid, than their friends could possi- 
 bly afford them. 
 
 Almost every day. Just as the sun is sink- 
 ing below the horizon, the old lady, above 
 mentioned, goes to the place where her de- 
 ceased son, when alive, was accustomed to 
 encamp, when he came to the fort, and there 
 weeps, and sings a mournful kind of song, of 
 which the following is a translation. "My 
 dear son, come to me ! why do you leave 
 me, my son?" This she repeats for two 
 hours together, in the most plaintive and 
 melancholy tone imaginable. 
 
 It is customary for the women, among 
 the Beaver Indians, when they lose a near 
 relation, to cut off a joint of one of their 
 fingers ; and, in consequence of so barbarous 
 a custom, we frequently see some of their 
 aged women, who want the first two joints 
 of every finger, on both hands. The men 
 content themselves, on such occasions, by 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 149 
 
 (Cutting off their hair, close to their heads, 
 and by scratching or cutting their faces and 
 arms, frequently in a most barbarous and 
 shocking manner. 
 
 The Beaver Indians are a peaceable and 
 quiet people, and, perhaps, the most honest 
 of any, on the face of the earth. Theft is 
 rarely committed among them ; and when one 
 of their tribe is known to have stolen, he is 
 regarded with a detestation, like that w^hich 
 follows a highwayman in civilized countries. 
 
 Pormerly, their clothing was made of the 
 rskins of the buffaloe, moose, and red deer, 
 and their arms were bows and arrows; but 
 the greater part of them, are now clothed 
 with European goods, and are supplied with 
 fire arms. They have, also, iron axes and 
 knives, in the place of those which were made 
 of stone and of bone. 
 
 Friday, September 1. Fowls begin to 
 leave the north, to go to the southward. 
 
 Friday, October 6. As the weather be- 
 gins to be cold, w^e have taken our vegeta- 
 bles out of the ground, which we find to 
 have been very productive. 
 
 Saturday, 7. Mr. A. R. McLeod and com- 
 pany, passed this place, to-day, in three 
 canoes, which are on their way to the Rocky 
 Mountain Portage, and thence to New Cale- 
 donia. This gentleman delivered me letters, 
 not only from different persons in this coun- 
 try, but also from my relatives below. To 
 be informed, in this way, of the health and 
 
150 HAEMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 prosperity of the latter, to attend to the ef- 
 fusions of their hearts, and a detail of many 
 of the circumstances of their lives, transports 
 me in imagination, for a short season, into 
 the midst of their society, and communi- 
 cates a pleasure resembling that of personal 
 intercourse. Excellent invention of letters ! 
 thus to enable us to keep up a kind of con- 
 versation with beloved friends, while sepa- 
 rated from them by thousands of miles. 
 
 Sunday, February 2d, 1810. On the even- 
 ing of the 15th inst. my woman was de- 
 livered of two living boys. They appear, 
 however, to have been prematurely born; 
 and, from the first, little hope was en- 
 tertained that they would long survive. 
 One of them died on the morning of the 
 22d, and the other the last night ; and to- 
 day, they were both buried in the same 
 coflBn. He who gave them life, has taken 
 it away. He had an undoubted right so 
 to do; and though his ways are to us, 
 inscrutable, he has the best reasons for what- 
 ever he does. It becomes us, therefore, hum- 
 bly to acquiesce in this aflBiictive dispensa- 
 tion. 
 
 Thursday, May 3. This day, the ice in the 
 river broke up. 
 
 Tuesday, 15. Early this morning, Mr. D. 
 McTavish and company, set out for Fort 
 William; and this afternoon, Mr. J. Clarke 
 and company, from St. John's, passed this, 
 on their way to the Eainy Lake. But I 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 151 
 
 shall remain, if providence permit, at this 
 place, during another summer. The local 
 situation is pleasant ; and we have good 
 horses, by means of which, I can, at pleas- 
 ure make excursions into the surrounding 
 plains, over which are scattered buffaloes, 
 moose, red deers, antelopes, black and grey 
 bears, &c. I shall have no intelligent com- 
 panion, with whom to converse. But this 
 deficiency will be in a measure supplied, by 
 a good collection of books, with which I am 
 furnished. Were it not for this resource, 
 many a dreary day would pass over me. 
 
 Tuesday, 22. Messrs. J. Stuart, and H. 
 Faries and company, passed this place in 
 four canoes, with the returns of New Cale- 
 donia and Kocky Mountain Portage; and, 
 like many others, they are on their way to 
 the Rainy Lake. 
 
 Saturday, June 23. The last night was so 
 cold, that the tops of our potatoes were 
 frozen. This morning, as several red deer 
 were crossing from the opposite side of the 
 river, one of our people leaped into a canoe, 
 and pursued them, and succeeded in kilHng 
 one of them. 
 
 Thursday, September 13. Two men have 
 arrived from New Caledonia, who bring the 
 disagreeable intelligence, that salmon, this 
 season, do not come up the rivers of that 
 region, as usual. As this kind of fish forms 
 the principal article of food, both for the 
 Natives and white people, it is apprehended 
 
152 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 that they will all be under the necessity of 
 proceeding towards the Pacific Ocean, until 
 they find a people who have been more 
 favoured by Providence. 
 
 Weclnesdaj, October 3. We have taken 
 our potatoes out of the ground, and find, 
 that nine bushels, which we planted the 10th 
 of May last, have produced a little more 
 than one hundred and fifty bushels. The 
 other vegetables in our garden have yielded 
 an increase, much in the same proportion, 
 which is sufiicient proof, that the soil of the 
 points of land, along this river, is good. 
 Indeed, I am of opinion, that wheat, rye, 
 barley, oats, pease, &:c. would grow well in 
 the plains around us. 
 
 Saturday, October 6. JVIr. John Stuart 
 and company, in four canoes, have arrived 
 from Fort Chippewyan, having on board, 
 goods for the establishment at the Rocky 
 Mountain Portage and New Caledonia. This 
 gentleman delivered me a packet of letters 
 from home, and also a number of others 
 from gentlemen in this country, one of which 
 is a joint letter, signed by three of the part- 
 ners, requesting me to go and superintend 
 the affairs of New Caledonia; or, if I prefer 
 it, to accompany Mr. Stuart, as second in 
 command to him, until the next spring, at 
 which time it is presumed, that I shall have 
 learned sufficient of the state of. things in 
 that country, to assume the whole man- 
 agement myself. As Mr. Stuart has passed 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 153 
 
 several years in that part of the country, 
 the information which his experience will 
 enable him to afford me, will be of great 
 service. I prefer, therefore, accompanying 
 him, to going alone, especially in view of the 
 late unfavourable reports from that coun- 
 try, in regard to the means of subsistence. 
 
 Wednesday, October 10. St. John's. On 
 the 7th Mr. Stuart and myself, with our 
 company, left Dun vegan; and this evening, 
 we arrived here. The current in the river 
 begins to be much stronger than we found 
 it below Dunvegan. On both sides of the 
 river, are hills of a considerable height, 
 which are almost destitute of timber of any 
 kind. At different places, we saw buffaloes, 
 red deer, and bears. During our passage 
 to this place, the weather has been bad. The 
 snow and rain have been very unpleasant, 
 unprotected against them, as we are, in our 
 open canoes. 
 
 Thursday, 11. In the early part of the 
 day, our people w^ere busily employed in pre- 
 paring provisions to take with us to New 
 Caledonia. This afternoon, Mr. Stuart and 
 company embarked in three canoes, for the 
 Rocky Mountain Portage. Having a little 
 business still to transact, I shall pass the 
 night here. 
 
 Monday, 15. Rocky Mountain Portage 
 Fort. We here find nearly eight inches of 
 snow. Mr. Stuart and company reached here 
 yesterday; and I arrived this morning. Be- 
 
154 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 tween this place and St. John's, the river is 
 very rapid, its banks are high, and the coun- 
 try, on both sides of it, is generally clothed 
 with small timber. Ever since our arrival, 
 we have been employed in delivering goods 
 for this place, and dividing the remainder 
 among our people, to be taken on their 
 backs, to the other end of the portage, which 
 is twelve miles over, through a rough and 
 hilly country. We leave our canoes and 
 take others, at the other end of the carrying 
 place. 
 
 From the Great Slave Lake to this place, 
 there are few rapids, and only one fall; but 
 at several places, the current is very strong. 
 Yesterday, we came up one of these places; 
 and as our progress was very slow, I went 
 on shore alone, to walk along the beach. 
 Having proceeded some distance, I arrived 
 at a place which I could not pass, without 
 making a considerable turn into the woods. 
 I, therefore, left the side of the river, and, 
 after having walked a mile or two, I fell up- 
 on a well beaten footpath, which I supposed 
 would take me directly to the fort. After I 
 had followed it for several miles, I perceived 
 that it had been trodden by wild animals, 
 and was as I thought, leading me in a dif- 
 ferent direction from that which I ought to' 
 have taken. I was unwilling to retrace iny 
 steps; and I, therefore, proceeded in a dif- 
 ferent direction, hoping soon to come to the 
 river, farther up than the place where I left 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. ^ 155 
 
 it. I marched a good pace, for a considera- 
 ble time, through the snow, eight inches in 
 depth, until I found myself in a swampy 
 country, thickly wooded, when the sun was 
 just sinking below the horizon. Even while 
 the light lasted, I knew not which way to 
 steer; but it soon became so dark, that I 
 could not distinguish any object, at the 
 distance of more than ten yards from me. 
 I had no means of striking fire; and with- 
 out this cheering element, it would have 
 been uncomfortable and unsafe encamping. 
 I must have suffered severely with the cold; 
 and might have been torn in pieces by wild 
 beasts, which are numerous in this region. 
 I concluded it best, therefore, to continue 
 walking, until the light of the morning should 
 enable me to find the bank of the river. 
 Contrary to my expectation, however, a 
 kind Providence directed my way, out of 
 that dreary swamp, where at every step, I 
 sunk up to my knees in snow, mud and 
 water. 
 
 With great Joy, about ten o'clock, I 
 reached the river side, which I followed down, 
 some distance, where I found our people, 
 encamped around a large and cheering fire. 
 During the greater part of this excursion, 
 the rain poured down in torrents. 
 
 Wednesday, 17. North West end of the 
 Roeky Mountain Portage. In the morning, 
 Mr. S. myself and our company, left the 
 fort; and, this evening, we reached this 
 
156 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 place, where we find some of our people, 
 repairing four, crazy, old canoes, in 
 which, I should suppose that no one 
 would be willing to embark, who attaches 
 much value to life. The remainder of our 
 hands are employed in transporting our 
 baggage, which is still behind, to this place. 
 Thev are assisted in doing this, by some of 
 the Natives, who are Sicannies. They have 
 just returned from the other side of the 
 Rocky Mountain, where they go to pass the 
 summer months. During the winter season, 
 they remain on this side of the Mountain, 
 where they find buffaloes, moose and deer. 
 On the other side, none of these animals, 
 excepting a few straggling ones, are to be 
 found. 
 
 The Sicannies are a quiet, inoffensive peo- 
 ple, whose situation exposes them to pe- 
 culiar difficulties and distresses. Y^lien they 
 proceed to the west side of the mountain, 
 the Natives of that region, who are Tacullies 
 and Atenas, attack and kill many of them; 
 and when they are on this side, the Beaver 
 Indians and Crees, are continually making 
 war upon them. Being thus surrounded by 
 enemies, against whom they are too feeble 
 successfully to contend, they frequently suffer 
 much for want of food ; for when on the 
 west side, they dare not, at all times, visit 
 those places, where fish are in plenty, and 
 when on the east side, they are frequently 
 afraid to visit those parts, where animals 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 157 
 
 abound. They are compelled, therefore, often- 
 times to subsist upon the roots, which they 
 find in the mountains, and which barely 
 enable them to sustain life ; and their emaci- 
 ated bodies frequently bear witness, to the 
 scantiness of their fare. 
 
 We here begin to see lofty mountains at a 
 distance. This place is in the 56° of North 
 Latitude, and 121° of West Longitude. 
 
 Monday, 22. It has snowed and rained, 
 during the whole of this day.— We are now 
 in the heart of the Rocky Mountain, the 
 lofty summits of which, on each side of the 
 river, tower majestically toward the heavens, 
 and are perpetually whitened by snows, 
 that are never dissolved, by solar heat. 
 They are by far the highest mountains that 
 I have ever seen. The timber, which grows 
 upon them, is chiefly spruce fir, birch and 
 poplar. It is a curious fact, in the geog- 
 raphy of North America, that so many of 
 the lakes and rivers, on the west side of this 
 lofty range of mountains, discharge their 
 waters through one narrow passage, in this 
 great barrier, and eventually enter the North 
 Sea. 
 
 Wednesday, 24. Although we have found 
 the current in this river very strong, ever since 
 we left the Rocky Mountain Portage, yet, 
 until this day, we have found no place where 
 we were under the necessity of unloading our 
 canoes, in order to stem the current. This 
 afternoon, just as we got through the moun- 
 
158 HARMON'S JOtTBNAL. 
 
 tain, we passed Finlay's or the North Branchj 
 which appears to be of about the same mag- 
 nitude as the South Branch, which we are 
 following. These two branches take their 
 rise in very different directions. The source 
 of the South Branch, is in the Rocky Moun- 
 tain, at the distance of nearly two hundred 
 miles from the place where we now are. The 
 North Branch runs out of a very large lake, 
 called by the Natives Musk-qua Sa-ky-e-gun, 
 or Bears Lake. This lake, which is so large 
 that the Indians never attempt to cross it in 
 their canoes, and which, those who reside at 
 the east end of it, affirm, extends to the 
 Western Ocean, is situated nearly west from 
 the place where the two branches form a 
 junction, at the distance, as is thought of 
 about one hundred and fifty miles. Both 
 branches, before their junction, run along 
 the foot of the mountain, as if in search of 
 a passage through. 
 
 Thursday, November 1. McLeod's Lake 
 Fort. This place is situated in 55° North 
 Latitude, and 124° West Longitude. The 
 country lying between this place and Fin- 
 lay's Branch, is thickly covered with timber, 
 on both sides of the river ; and, on the right, 
 in coming up, the land is low and level. 
 Mountains, it is true, are to be seen; but 
 they appear at a considerable distance. We 
 have not seen a large animal, nor even the 
 track of one, since we left the Rocky Moun- 
 tain Portage. About twenty miles from this 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 159 
 
 place, we left Peace River, and have come up 
 a small river, of five or six rods in breadth, 
 which, a little below this, passes through a 
 small lake. Here, we leave our canoes, and 
 take our goods by land, to the estabhsh- 
 ment at Stuart's Lake, which place is sit- 
 uated nearly one hundred miles to the west 
 from this. There is a passage by water to 
 that lake; but it is so circuitous, that we 
 could not make it in less than twelve or 
 fifteen days. 
 
 McLeod's Lake may be sixty or seventy 
 miles in circumference. Small white fish and 
 trout are here taken; but those who reside 
 here subsist, during the greater part of the 
 year, on dried salmon, which are brought in 
 the winter, on sledges, drawn by dogs, from 
 Stuart's Lake. 
 
 The Indians who frequent this establish- 
 ment, are Sicannies, and belong to the same 
 tribe with those who take their furs to the 
 Rocky Mountain Portage. Their dialect dif- 
 fers but little from that of the Beaver In- 
 dians. They appear to be in wretched cir- 
 cumstances, frequently suffering much for 
 want of food; and they are often driven to 
 the necessity of subsisting on roots. There 
 are but few large animals, in this part of the 
 country; and w^hen the snow is five or six 
 feet deep, as is frequently the case in the 
 winter, few beavers can be taken, nor can 
 many fish be caught, in this cold season of 
 the year. Yet after all the difiiculties which 
 
160 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 these people encounter, in procuring a sub- 
 sistence, such is their attachment to the 
 country that gave them birth, that they 
 would not willingly exchange it, for any 
 other part of the world. 
 
 Wednesday, 7. StuRrfs Lake. This lake 
 is called by the Natives Nuck-aws-lay, and 
 the establishment on it, where we now are, is 
 situated in 54° 30' North Latitude, and in 
 125° West Longitude. On the third instant, 
 Ileft Mr. Stuart at McLeod's Lake, where he 
 designs to pass the winter ; and, accompanied 
 by thirteen labouring men, I arrived at this 
 place, this afternoon. In coming here, I 
 passed over an uneven country, which is in 
 general thickly covered with timber. We 
 saw, on our way, several lakes or ponds, one 
 of which was about six miles long. 
 
 This fort stands in a very pleasant place, 
 on a rise of ground, at the east end of Stu- 
 art's Lake, which I am informed, is at least 
 three hundred miles in circumference. At the 
 distance of about two hundred rods from the 
 fort, a considerable river runs out of the lake, 
 where the Natives, who call themselves Tacul- 
 lies, have a village or rather a few small huts, 
 built of wood. At these they remain during 
 the season for taking and drying salmon, on 
 which they subsist, during the greater part of 
 the year. 
 
 Monday, 12. I have sent J. M. Quesnel, 
 accompanied by ten labouring men, with a 
 small assortment of goods, to Frazer's Lake, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 161 
 
 to reestablish the post there. That lake lies 
 nearly fifty miles due west from this. We 
 understand that the Indians, this fall, have 
 taken and dried a considerable quantity of 
 salmon, in that vicinity. I have also sent 
 people to the other side of this lake, hoping 
 they will take a few white fish, although the 
 season, in which we usually take them, is 
 nearly past. 
 
 Wednesday, 14. The lake, opposite to the 
 fort, froze over the last night. To day Mr. 
 Stuart and company, arrived from McLeod's 
 Lake. 
 
 Saturday, 17. We have now about eight 
 inches of snow on the ground. 
 
 Sunday, 18. Mr. Stuart and company, 
 have gone to Frazer's Lake. I accompanied 
 them to the other side of this lake, where I 
 saw all the Indians belonging to the village 
 in this vicinity. They amount to about one 
 hundred souls, are very poorly clothed, and, 
 to us, appear to be in wretched circum- 
 stances ; but they are, notwithstanding, con- 
 tented and cheerful. My interpreter informs 
 me, that their language strongly resembles 
 that spoken by the Sicannies ; and no doubt 
 they formerly constituted a part of the same 
 tribe, though they now differ from them, in 
 their manners and customs. The Sicannies 
 bury, while the Tacullies, burn their dead. 
 
 Monday, 26. The corpse of a woman of 
 this place, who died on the 20th instant, was 
 burned this afternoon. While the ceremony 
 II 
 
162 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 was performing, the Natives made a terrible 
 savage noise, by howling, crying, and a kind 
 of singing. 
 
 Saturday, December 29. Frazefs Lake. 
 In coming to this place, I passed through a 
 country, which is very rough, and thickly 
 covered with timber, consisting of spruce, fir, 
 poplar, aspin, birch, cypress, j&c. We crossed 
 one considerable mountain, and several small 
 lakes. 
 
 This establishnlent is at the east end of 
 Frazer's Lake, which received its name from 
 that of the gentleman, who first built here, 
 in 1806. At the distance of about a mile 
 from this, there runs out of this lake, a con- 
 siderable river, where the Natives have a 
 large village, and w^here they take and dry 
 salmon. This lake may be eighty or ninety 
 miles in circumference, and is well supplied 
 with white fish, trout, &c. 
 
 Tuesday, January 1, 1811. This being the 
 first day of another year, our people have 
 passed it, according to the custom of the 
 Canadians, in drinking and fighting. Some 
 of the principal Lidians of this place, desired 
 us to allow them to remain at the fort, that 
 they might see our people drink. As soon as 
 they began to be a little intoxicated, and to 
 quarrel among themselves, the Natives began 
 to be apprehensive, that something unpleas- 
 ant might befal them, also. They, therefore 
 hid themselves under beds, and elsew^here, 
 saying, that they thought the white people 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 16^ 
 
 had run mad, for they appeared not to know 
 what they were about. They perceived that 
 those who were the most beastly in the early 
 part of the day, became the most quiet in the 
 latter part, in view of which, they exclaimed, 
 "the senses of the white people have returned 
 to them again," and they appeared not a 
 little surprised at the change; for, it was the 
 first time, that they had ever seen a person 
 intoxicated. 
 
 Sunday, 27. This day the Natives have 
 burned the corpse of one of their chiefs, who 
 died in the early part of this month. Shortly 
 after his death, one of his nieces painted her 
 face with vermillion; and, in other respects 
 arrayed herself in the gayest manner possible. 
 Her mother, observing this unbecoming con- 
 duct, reproved her in the following manner. 
 "Are you not ashamed, my daughter," said 
 she, "to appear so gaily clad, so soon after 
 the decease of your uncle? You ought rather 
 to daub your face with black, and to cut 
 your hair short to your head." This re- 
 proach for the apparent destitution of nat- 
 ural affection, so afflicted the girl, that, soon 
 after, she went into a neighbouring wood, 
 and hung herself, from the limb of a tree. 
 Happily for her, however, some people passed 
 that way, before she had long been in this 
 situation, and took her down. She was, at 
 first, senseless; but soon after recovered.— 
 Instances of suicide, by hanging, frequently 
 occur, among the women of all the tribes, 
 
164 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 with whom I have been acquainted ; but the 
 men are seldom known to take away their 
 own hves. 
 
 Wedaesdaj', 30. Two nights since, an In- 
 dian cut a hole in a window in my room, 
 which is made of parchment, at the distance 
 of not more than two feet from the foot of 
 my bed, where I lay asleep, and took from 
 a table, near it, several articles of clothing. 
 The next morning, two other Indians brought 
 back to me a part of the stolen property, 
 and informed me who the thief was, and 
 where he could be found. Soon after, accom- 
 panied by my interpreter, I went, and found 
 the young rillain, in a hut under ground, 
 along with about twelve others, who are as 
 great thieves as himself. I told him, that, as 
 he was young, I hoped this was the first time 
 he had ever been guilty of theft ; and, pro- 
 vided he would return all the property which 
 he had taken away, I would forgive this 
 offence; but if he should ever in future be 
 guilty of any misconduct toward us, he 
 might depend on being severely punished.. I 
 then returned to our house; and, shortly 
 after, two Indians brought me the remainder 
 of the property which had been stolen, and I 
 gave them a little ammunition, for having 
 made known the thief.— Nearly all the TA cul- 
 lies, or Carriers as we call them, are much 
 addicted to pilfering; but there are few 
 among them who dare steal from us. 
 
 Friday, February 15. Yesterday and to- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 165 
 
 day, we found the cold to be more intense, 
 than at any other time this season. 
 
 Monday, 18. Baptiste Bouche, my inter- 
 preter, has taken the daughter of one of the 
 Carrier chiefs, as a wife. She is the first 
 woman of that tribe, ever kept by any of the 
 white people. 
 
 Friday, April 5. Stuarfs Lake. In the 
 morning, I left and abandoned the post at 
 Frazer's Lake, and arrived here this evening. 
 
 Monday, 15. The weather is pleasant, and 
 seems to presage an early spring. — Swans 
 and ducks of several kinds, have passed the 
 winter with us ; but bustards and geese, now 
 first begin to make their appearance. 
 
 Sunday, 21. A few days since, I sent the 
 greater part of my people to McLeod's Lake, 
 to prepare for the voyage from that place to 
 the Rainy Lake. Tomorrow, I shall leave 
 this place myself, in company with Mr. 
 Quesnel and others, for McLeod's Lake. I 
 shall take with me my little son George, 
 who was three years old last December, 
 for the purpose of sending him to my 
 friends in the United States, in order that 
 he may receive an English education. Mr. 
 J. M. Quesnel will have the care of him, until 
 he shall arrive at Montreal. 
 
 Wednesday, 24. McLeod's Lake. I find 
 Mr. Stuart and the men very busy, in pre- 
 paring for the voyage to the Rainy Lake.— 
 The spring here is less advanced, by fifteen 
 days, than it was at Stuart's Lake. This 
 
166 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 great difference of climate, I conclude, is 
 owing to the fact, that this place lies nearer 
 the mountains. 
 
 Weclnesdar, May 8. People have just ar- 
 rived from Stuart's Lake, who inform me 
 that the mother of my son was delivered on 
 the 25th ultimo, of a daughter, whom I name 
 Polly Harmon. 
 
 As the ice in Peace River begins to be bad, 
 it is expected that a few days hence the 
 navigation will be opened, when Messrs. 
 Stuart, Quesnel, and their company, will em- 
 bark, with the returns of this place, for the 
 Rainy Lake. Tomorrow, I design to return 
 to Stuart's Lake, where I expect to pass the 
 ensuino; summer. But mv attention is chieflv 
 taken up with the separation, which is soon 
 to take place between me and mv beloved"..^ 
 son. A few months hence, he will be at af. ,- 
 great distance, from his affectionate father^; 
 and, it may be, I shall never more see him, 
 in this world. No consideration could induce 
 me to send him down, especially while he is 
 so young, excepting the thought, that he will 
 soon be under the fostering care of my kind 
 relatives, who will be able to educate him 
 much better than it would be possible for me 
 to do, in this savage country. As I do that 
 which I apprehend will be for the benefit of 
 my little son, so I earnestly pray, that God 
 would gTaciously protect him, in his absence 
 from me. 
 
 Sunday, 12. Stuart's Lake. Here, I ar- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 167 
 
 rived this afternoon, after having passed 
 four of the most disagreeable days that I 
 ever experienced. My spirits were dejected, in 
 view of the departure of my child ; the snow, 
 which was three feet in depth, had become 
 softened by the late warm weather, so that 
 walking was attended with great fatigue; I 
 broke my snow shoes, on the way, which the 
 Indian lad with me mended as well as our 
 circumstances would permit, though but 
 poorly ; and finally we had scarcely any thing 
 to eat. I am happy, therefore, to find myself 
 at a place where I can enjoy a little repose, 
 after such an unpleasant jaunt. 
 
 Tuesday, 21. This afternoon, the ice in 
 this lake broke up. Musquetoes begin to 
 come about; and troublesome companions 
 they are in the wilderness. 
 * Wednesday, 22. As the frost is now out of 
 the' ground, we have planted our potatoes, 
 and sowed barley, turnips, &c. which are the 
 first that we ever sowed, on this west side of 
 the mountain. — We now take trout in this 
 lake, with set hooks and lines, in considerable 
 numbers; but they are not of a good kind.— 
 It is, perhaps, a little remarkable, that pike 
 or pickerel have never been found in any of 
 the lakes and rivers, on the west side of the 
 Rocky Mountain. 
 
 Tuesday, June 11. Three Indians have 
 arrived from Sy-cus, a village, lying about 
 one hundred and thirty miles down this river, 
 who say, that it is reported by others, from 
 
168 HARMONS JOURNAL. 
 
 farther down, that there is a very extraordi- 
 nary and powerful being on his way here, 
 from the sea, who, when he arrives, will 
 transform me into a stone, as well as per- 
 form many other miraculous deeds ; and the 
 simple and credulous Natives fully beheve this 
 report. 
 
 Sunday, 16. A number of Indians have 
 arrived, in six large wooden canoes, from the 
 other end of this lake ; and among them are 
 two, a father and his son, who say, that they 
 belong to a tribe, who call themselves Nate- 
 ote-tains. These are the first of that nation, 
 whom we have ever seen here. They state, 
 that their tribe is numerous, and scattered, 
 in villages, over a large extent of country, 
 lying directly west from this; and that it is 
 not more than five or six days' march, to 
 their nearest village. They, also, inform us, 
 that a large river passes through their coun- 
 try, and at no considerable distance from it, 
 enters the Pacific Ocean. They, likewise, say, 
 that a number of white people come up that 
 river, in barges, every autumn, in order to 
 trade wit"h the Indians, who reside along its 
 shores. But I could not learn from them, to 
 what nation those white people belong. I 
 imagine, however, that they are Americans, 
 who come round Cape Horn, to carry on, 
 what is called a coasting trade ; for, I cannot 
 learn that they ever attempted to make es- 
 tablishments, along the sea coast. 
 
 Tuesday, July 2. Yesterday, five Sicannies 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 169 
 
 came here, from McLeod's Lake, who form a 
 small war party. Their leader, or war chief 
 desired me to allow them to go where they 
 might think proper; upon which, I inquired 
 of them, whither they wished to direct their 
 course, and what their business was. The 
 speaker replied, that, when they left their 
 lands, their intention was to go and try to 
 take a scalp or two from the Indians of 
 Frazer's Lake, ''who," he added, ''have done 
 us no injury. But we have lost a relation; 
 and we must try to revenge his death, on 
 some one." — This is a custom common to a 
 greater or less extent to all the tribes. 
 
 I asked him whether he supposed that we 
 supplied them with guns and ammunitions, 
 to enable them to destroy their fellow crea- 
 tures, or to kill the beaver, &c. I added, 
 that should they, in the fall, bring in an hun- 
 dred scalps, they could not, with them all, 
 procure a pint of rum, or a pipe full of to- 
 bacco ; but, if they would bring beaver skins 
 they would able to purchase the articles 
 which they would need. After reflecting for 
 some time on what I had said, the speaker 
 informed me, that they would, in compliance 
 with my advice, return and hunt the beaver ; 
 and they performed their promise, by proceed- 
 ing immediately to their own lands. 
 
 Monday, 29. Several days since, one of 
 our men, who remains at McLeod's Lake, 
 came here with the information, that there 
 were Indians lurking around that fort, wait- 
 
170 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 ing, as was supposed, for a favourable oppor- 
 tunity to attack it. I, accordingly, went 
 over, hoping that I should be able to ascer- 
 tain who they were; but I have not been 
 able to obtain the least information respect- 
 ing them. Probably, they had not courage 
 to make the attack, and have returned to 
 their own lands. 
 
 Shad berries begin to ripen, which is about 
 twenty days later than they ripen, in the 
 same Latitude, on the east side of the Rocky 
 Mountain. 
 
 Friday, August 2. Our whole stock of 
 provisions in the fort, for ten persons, con- 
 sists of five salmon, onh^ It is impossible, 
 at this season, to take fish out of this lake 
 or river. Unless the salmon' from the sea, 
 soon make their appearance, our condition 
 will be deplorable. > 
 
 Saturday, 10. Sent all our people, con- 
 sisting of men, women, and children, to 
 gather berries at Pinchy, a village about 
 twelve miles distant from this, toward the 
 other end of this lake. At no great distance 
 from that village, as I am informed, there is 
 a small lake, out of which the Natives take 
 small fish, which very much resemble a sal- 
 mon in shape and in fiavour, which are not 
 more than six inches long. They are said to 
 be very palatable; but, if they were not so, 
 they would be very acceptable to us, in our 
 present circumstances. 
 
 Thursday, 22. One of the Natives has 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 171 
 
 caught a salmon, which is joyful intelligence 
 to us all ; for we hope and expect, that, in a 
 few days, we shall have them in abundance. 
 These fish visit, to a greater or less extent, 
 all the rivers in this region, and form the 
 principal dependence of the inhabitants, as 
 the means of subsistence. 
 
 Monday, September 2. We now have the 
 common salmon in abundance. They weigh 
 from five to seven pounds. There are, also, 
 a few of a larger kind, which will weigh 
 sixty or seventy pounds. Both of them are 
 very good, when just taken out of the water. 
 But, when dried, as they are by the Indians 
 here, by the heat of the sun, or in the smoke 
 of a fire, they are not very palatable. When 
 salted, they are excellent. 
 
 As soon as the salmcn come into this lake, 
 they go in search of the rivers and brooks, 
 that fall into it ; and these streams they 
 ascend so far as there is water to enable 
 them to swim ; and when they can proceed 
 no farther up, they remain there and die. 
 None were ever seen to descend these streams. 
 They are found dead in such numbers, in 
 some places, as to infect the atmosphere, 
 with a terrible stench, for a considerable 
 distance round. But, even when they are in 
 a putrified state, the Natives frequently 
 gather them up and eat them, apparently, 
 with as great a relish, as if they were fresh. 
 
 Tuesday, 17. Between nine and ten 
 o'clock, this forenoon, the sun was eclipsed. 
 
172 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 for nearly half an hour, which event alarmed 
 the Natives greatly ; for they considered it as 
 foreboding some great calamity, about to 
 fall upon them. They therefore cried and 
 howled, making a savage noise. Their 
 priests or magicians took their hands full 
 of swan's down, and blew it through their 
 hands toward the sun, imploring that great 
 luminary to accept of the offering, thus made 
 to him, to be put on the head of his sons, 
 when engaged in dancing, and to spare the 
 Indians. They suppose that the sun has 
 children, who, like those of the Carriers, are 
 fond of putting swan's down on their heads, 
 when they dance. — I explained to them the 
 cause of the darkness ; at which they appeared 
 both pleased and astonished, and acknowl- 
 edged that my account of the subject was 
 rational, but wondered how I could obtain 
 a knowledge of such hidden and mysterious 
 things. 
 
 Monday, 23. Bustards and geese begin to 
 come from the north. 
 
 In the early part of the day, I found it 
 necessary to chastise the chief of this village, 
 with considerable severity. He is the first 
 Indian that I have ever struck during a resi- 
 dence of eleven years, in this savage country. 
 
 The following circumstances attended this 
 transaction. The name of the Indian, who 
 was chastised, was Quas. He had a friend, 
 who was a worthless fellow, to whom he 
 wished me to advance goods on credit, which 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 173 
 
 I declined doing; for two reasons. The first 
 was, that I did not believe that the Indian 
 would ever pay me for them. The other was? 
 that Quas wished to make the Indians be- 
 lieve, that he had a great deal of influence 
 over us, which w^ould be prejudicial to our 
 interest, if he should effect it. He tried every 
 method, which he could devise, to persuade 
 me to advance the goods, but to no purpose ; 
 for I perceived what was his object. He then 
 told me, that he saw no other difference be- 
 tween me and himself, but this only : 'you,' 
 said he, ' know how to read and write ; but I 
 do not. Do not I manage my affairs as well, 
 as you do yours? You keep your fort in 
 order, and make your slaves,' meaning my 
 men, 'obey you. You send a great way off 
 for goods, and you are rich and want for 
 nothing. But do not I manage my affairs as 
 well as you do yours? When did you ever 
 hear that Quas was in danger of starving? 
 When it is the proper season to hunt the 
 beaver, I kill them ; and of their flesh I make 
 feasts for my relations. I, often, feast all the 
 Indians of my village ; and, sometimes, invite 
 people from afar off, to come and partake of 
 the fruits of my hunts. I know the season 
 when fish spawn, and, then send my women 
 with the nets which they have made, to take 
 them. I never want for any thing, and my 
 family is always well clothed." — In this man- 
 ner, the fellow proceeded, for a considerable 
 time. 
 
174 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 I told him that what he had said, con- 
 cerning himself and his family, was true ; yet, 
 I added, 'I am master of my own property, 
 and shall dispose of it as I please.' 'Well,' 
 said he, 'have you ever been to war?' 'No,' 
 replied I, 'nor do I desire to take the life of 
 any of my fellow creatures.' 'I have been to 
 war/ continued he, 'and have brought home 
 many of the scalps of my enemies.' I was 
 now strongly tempted to beat him, as his 
 object manifestly was, to intimidate me. But 
 I wished to avoid a quarrel, which might be 
 evil in its consequences; and especially to 
 evince to the Indians, who were spectators of 
 what passed between us, that I was disposed 
 to live in peace with them.— Quas proceeded 
 to try me another way. He asked me if I 
 would trust him with a small piece of cloth, to 
 make him a breech cloth? This I consented 
 to do, and went into the store, to measure it 
 off. He followed me together with my inter- 
 preter, and ten or twelve other Indians. I 
 took up a piece of cloth, and asked him, if he 
 would have it from that? He answered, no. 
 I then made a similar inquiry, respecting an- 
 other piece, to which he made a similar reply. 
 This persuaded me, that his only object was 
 to provoke me to quarrel with him. I, there- 
 fore, threw down the cloth, and told him, if 
 he would not have that, he should have 
 this, (meaning a square yard stick which I 
 had in my hand) with which I gave him a 
 smart blow over the head, which cut it, con- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 175 
 
 siderably. I then sprang over the counter, 
 and pelted him, for about five minutes, dur- 
 ing which time, he continually called to his 
 companions, all of whom had knives in their 
 hands, to come and take me off. But, they 
 replied that they could not, because there 
 were two other white people in the room, who 
 would prevent them. It was happy for us 
 that these Indians stood in such fear of us; 
 for there were only four white men, at this 
 time in the fort, and they could easily have 
 murdered us.— As Quas and his company left 
 "us, he told me that he would see me again 
 tomorrow, when the sun should be nearly in 
 the south, meaning between ten and twelve 
 o'clock. 
 
 Monday, October 1. The next day after I 
 chastised the Indian, as above described, he 
 sent one of his wives to request me, either to 
 come and see him, or to send him some 
 jmedicine. I, therefore, sent him some salve? 
 with which to dress the wound in his head. — 
 A few days after, he became so well as to be 
 able to hunt; and he killed and brought 
 home a number of beavers, with which he 
 yesterday made a feast. He sent an invita- 
 tion to me to attend this feast; and I con- 
 cluded that it would be necessary for me to 
 go, or he might think that I was afraid of 
 him. I, accordingly, put a brace of pistols in 
 my pocket, and hung a sword by my side, 
 and directed my interpreter to arm himself in 
 a similar manner, and to accompany me. We 
 
176 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 proceeded to the house of the chief, where we 
 found nearly an hundred Indians, assembled. 
 As soon as we arrived, he requested us to be 
 seated. He then rose, and stood in the mid- 
 dle of the circle, formed by the guests, and 
 with a distinct and elevated voice, made a 
 long harangue, in which he did not forget to 
 make mention of the beating which he had 
 lately received from me. He said, if it had 
 been given to him by any person but the 
 Big Knife (the name which they give to me) 
 he would have either lost his own life, or _ 
 have taken that of the person attacking him. 
 But now, he said, he considered himself as 
 my wife; for that was the way, he said, that 
 he treated his women (of whom he has four) 
 when they behave ill. He said, that he 
 thanked me for what I had done, for it had 
 given him sense.— To this I replied, that, in 
 a remote country, I had left my friends and 
 relations, who wanted for none of the good 
 things of this world, and had come a great 
 distance, with such articles as the Indians 
 greatly needed, and which I would exchange 
 for their furs, with which I could purchase 
 more ; and in this way, I could always supply 
 their necessities; that I considered the In- 
 dians as my children, and that I must chas- 
 tise them when they behaved ill, because it 
 was for their good. 'You all know,' said I, 
 'that I treat good Indians well, and that I 
 strive to live in peace with you.'— 'Yes,' re- 
 plied the father-in-law to the chief, ' Big Knife 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 177 
 
 speaks the truth. My son had no sense, and 
 vexed him, and therefore deserved the beating 
 which he has received.'— Quas then told the 
 Indians, that if he. ever heard of any of them 
 laughing at him for the beating which he had 
 received, he would make them repent of their 
 mirth. 
 
 After this the feast was served up in a 
 manner, which I shall describe in another 
 place.— It will be seen, by this account, that 
 the white people have a great ascendency 
 over the Indians ; for, I believe that this chief 
 is not destitute of bravery. But it is very 
 necessary, in order to secure ourselves from 
 aggression, that we manifest that we are not 
 afraid of them. 
 
 Saturday, 12. During the last three days, 
 it has snowed continually; and it has fallen 
 to the depth of nearly two feet. 
 
 Monday, 21. We have now in our store, 
 twenty five thousand salmon. Four in a day 
 are allowed to each man.— I have sent some 
 of our people to take white fish. 
 
 Thursday, 31. Two men have arrived 
 from McLeod's Lake, and have delivered me 
 several letters, one of which, from Mr. James 
 McDougall, who accompanied our people from 
 the Rainy Lake, informs me, that the canoes 
 were stopped by the ice, on the 12th inst. 
 about three days' march below McLeod's 
 Lake, where they still remain, together with 
 the property which they had on board. 
 
 Saturday, November 16. Our fishermen 
 
178 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 have returned to the fort, and inform me 
 that they have taken seven thousand white 
 fish. These fish, which, singly, will weigh 
 from three to four pounds, were taken in nine 
 nets, of sixty fathoms each. 
 
 Sunday, 17. Clear and cold. The last 
 night, the lake, opposite to the fort, froze 
 over. — The greater part of the snow, which 
 fell in October, is now dissolved. 
 
 Friday, December 13. On the 20th ult. I 
 set off, accompanied by twenty of my people, 
 for the goods which were stopped by the tak- 
 ing of the ice in Peace River, the last October. 
 We all returned this evening accompanied by 
 Mr. McDougall, who has come to pass the 
 holidays with us. Our goods were drawn on 
 sledges by dogs. Each pair of dogs drew a 
 load of from two hundred, to two hundred 
 and fifty pounds, besides provisions for them- 
 selves and their driver, which would make the 
 whole load about three hundred pounds. I 
 have seen many dogs, two of which would 
 draw on a sledge, five hundred pounds, 
 twenty miles, in five hours. For a short dis- 
 tance, two of our stoutest dogs will draw 
 more than a thousand pounds weight. In 
 short, there is no animal, with which I am 
 acquainted, that would be able to render half 
 the service that our dogs do, in this country, 
 where the snow is very deep in the winter 
 season. They sink but little into it, in fol- 
 lowing a person on snow shoes. 
 
 Wednesday, January 1, 1812. This being 
 
HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 179 
 
 the first day of the year, Mr. McDougall and 
 I dined with all our people, in the hall. 
 After our repast was ended, I invited several 
 of the Sicanny and Carrier chiefs, and most 
 respectable men, to partake of the provisions 
 which we had left ; and I was surprised to see 
 them behave with much decency, and even 
 propriety, while eating, and while drinking a 
 flagon or two of spirits. 
 
 After they had finished their repast, they 
 smoked their pipes, and conversed rationally, 
 on the great difference which there is, between 
 the manners and customs of civilized people, 
 and those of the savages. They readily con- 
 ceded, that ours are superior to theirs. 
 
 Tuesday, 7. On the 4th inst. accompanied 
 by several of our people, I set off for Tachy, 
 a village, toward the other end of this lake. 
 We there saw a number of Indians, who ap- 
 pear to be very indolent, and who are, of 
 course, wretchedly clad, and not better fed. 
 From that place, w^e proceeded up a consider- 
 able river, about half a day's march, to an- 
 other village, inhabited chiefiy by Sicannies, 
 who appear to be more industrious than the 
 inhabitants of the former village ; and, there- 
 fore, they are better clothed, and live more 
 comfortably. Their principal food consists 
 of salmon, white fish, and trout; and they, 
 at times, kill a beaver, or a cariboo. The 
 country around the lake is hilly; but, on 
 both sides of this river, it is level ; and from 
 the appearance of the timber which grows 
 
180 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 on it, I should think that the soil is not 
 bad. 
 
 Monrlnr, 13. On the 9th inst. a Sicannj 
 died at this place ; and the following circum- 
 stances attended his incineration, to day. — 
 The corpse was placed on a pile of dry wood, 
 with the face upwards, which was painted 
 and bare. The body was covered with a 
 robe, made of beaver skins, and shoes were 
 on the feet. In short, the deceased was 
 clothed in the same manner as when alive, 
 only a little more gaily. His gun and powder 
 horn, together with every trinket which he 
 had possessed, were placed by his side. As 
 they were about to set fire to the wood, on 
 which the deceased lay, one of his brothers 
 asked him if he would ever come among 
 them again ; for, they suppose that the soul 
 of a person, after the death of the body, can 
 revisit the earth, in another body. They 
 must, therefore, believe in the immortality, 
 though they connect with it the transmigra- 
 tion, of the soul. 
 
 The deceased had two wives, who were 
 placed, the one at the head, and the other at 
 the foot of the corpse; and there they lay 
 until the hair of their heads was nearly con- 
 sumed by the flames, and they were almost 
 suffocated by the smoke. \Mien almost sense- 
 less, they rolled on the ground, to a little 
 distance from the fire. As soon as they had 
 recovered a little strength, they stood up, and 
 began to strike the burning corpse with both 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 181 
 
 their hands alternately ; and this disgusting, 
 savage ceremony was continued, until the 
 body was nearly consumed. This operation 
 was interrupted by their frequent turns of 
 fainting, arising from the intensity of the 
 heat. If they did not soon recover from 
 these turns, and commence the operation of 
 striking the corpse, the men would seize them 
 by the little remaining hair on their heads, 
 and push them into the flames, in order to 
 compel them to do it. This violence w^as 
 especially used toward one of the wives of the 
 deceased, who had frequently run away from 
 him, while he was living. 
 
 When the body was nearly burned to 
 ashes, the wives of the deceased gathered 
 up these ashes, and the remaining pieces of 
 bones, which they put into bags. These 
 bags they will be compelled to carry upon 
 their backs, and to lay by their sides, when 
 they lie down at night, for about two years. 
 The relations of the deceased will then make 
 a feast, and enclose these bones and ashes 
 in a box, and deposit them under a shed, 
 erected for that purpose, in the centre of the 
 village. Until this time, the widows are kept 
 in a kind of slavery, and are required to 
 daub their faces over with some black sub- 
 stance, and to appear clothed with rags, 
 and frequently to go without any clothing, 
 excepting round their waists. But, at the 
 time of this feast, they are set at liberty 
 from these disagreeable restraints. 
 
182 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Thursday, -30. On the 17th inst. accom- 
 panied by Mr, McDougall, twelve of my men 
 and two carriers, I set out on a journey 
 to the territory of the Nate-ote-tains, a tribe 
 of Indians, who hare never had any inter- 
 course with white people, and few of whom 
 have ever seen them. After travelling, with 
 all possible expedition, during* seven days^ 
 generally on lakes, we arrived at their first 
 village. The inhabitants were not a little 
 surprised and alarmed to see people come 
 among them, whose complexion was so dif- 
 ferent from their own. As their village stands 
 on a rise of ground, near to a large lake, 
 they saw us coming, when we were at a con- 
 siderable distance from them; and the men, 
 women and children came out to meet us, 
 all of whom were armed, some with bows 
 and arrows, and others with axes and clubs. 
 They offered no offence; but, by man}" savage 
 gestures thej manifested a determination 
 to defend themselves, in case they were at- 
 tacked. We soon dissipated their fears, by 
 informing them, that we came not to make 
 war upon them, but to supply them with 
 articles which they needed, and to receive their 
 furs in exchange. They treated us with much 
 respect and with great hospitalit3^ 
 
 The day following, we proceeded on our 
 route, and, during our progress, we saw four 
 more of their villages. At the second of these, 
 we found the two men who, the last summer, 
 visited my fort. These people were not, there- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 183 
 
 fore, surprised at seeing us among them; 
 for, I had promised these two men, that, in 
 the course of the winter, I would visit their 
 country. They gave us the same account as 
 they had before given at the fort, of the 
 white people, who come up a large river, 
 already mentioned. And to convince us of 
 the truth of the account, they showed us 
 guns, cloth, axes, blankets, iron pots, &c. 
 which they obtained from their neighbours, 
 the Atenas, who purchase, them directly of 
 the white people. 
 
 The five villages which we visited, contain 
 about two thousand inhabitants, who are 
 well made and robust. They subsist prin- 
 cipally on salmon, and other small fish. The 
 salmon here have small scales, while those 
 at Stuart's Lake, have none.— The clothing 
 of these people, is much hke that of the Car- 
 riers. I procured from them vessels, curi- 
 ously wrought, of the smaller roots of the 
 spruce fir, in different shapes. Some of them 
 are open, hke a kettle, and will hold water. 
 They also, let me have a blanket or rug, 
 which was manufactured by the Atenas, of 
 the wool of a kind of sheep or goat. These 
 animals are said to be numerous, on the 
 mountains, in their country.— They told us 
 that we had seen but a small part of the 
 Nate-ote-tains, who, they say, are a numerous 
 tribe. They speak a language pecuhar to 
 themselves, though the greater part of them 
 understand that, spoken by the Carriers. 
 
184 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 The country, which we travelled over, in 
 this route, is generally level. Few mountains 
 are to be seen. A heavy growth of timber 
 evinces, that the soil is good.— We saw no 
 large animals, excepting the cariboo; but 
 we were informed, that black bears, and other 
 kinds of the larger animals, exist in con- 
 siderable numbers, in that region. 
 
 Sunday, February 2^. I have just returned 
 from a jaunt of eight days, to Frazer's Lake 
 and Stilla. The latter place lies about twenty 
 miles beyond the former. Wherever we went, 
 the Natives, as usual, appeared to be pleased 
 to see us, and treated us hospitably. 
 
 Monday, April 6. Six Indians have arrived 
 from Frazer's Lake, who delivered to me a 
 letter, written by Mr. David Thompson, 
 which is dated August 28th, 1811, at Hk- 
 koy-ope Falls, on the Columbia River. It in- 
 forms m&, that this gentleman, accompanied 
 by seven Canadians, descended the Columbia 
 River, to the place where it enters the Pacific 
 Ocean, where they arrived on the 16th of 
 July. There they found a number of people, 
 employed in building a fort for a company 
 of Americans, who denominate them^selves 
 the Pacific Fur Company. He also writes, 
 that Mr. Alexander McKay and others, have 
 proceeded to the northward, in the vessel 
 that brought them there, on a coasting 
 trade.— Mr. Thompson, after having remained 
 seven days with the American people, set out 
 on his return to his establishments, which 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 185 
 
 are near the source of the Columbia River. 
 From one of these posts, he wrote the letter 
 above mentioned, and delivered it to an In- 
 dian, to bring to the next tribe, with the 
 direction, that they should forward it to the 
 next, and so on, until it should reach this 
 place. This circumstance accounts for the 
 great length of time, that* it has been on the 
 way ; for the distance that it has come, might 
 be travelled over, in twenty five or thirty 
 days. 
 
 Monday, May VI. This morning I returned 
 from McLeod's Lake, where I have been to 
 send off my people, who are to go to the 
 Rainy Lake. While there, one of my men, 
 Pieere Lambert, while crossing a small lake 
 on a sledge, fell through the ice; and, before 
 his companions who were near could ex- 
 tricate him, he was drowned. The day follow- 
 ing, his corpse was brought to the fort and 
 interred. 
 
 On my way home, the walking was exceed- 
 ingly bad. The snow was three feet deep, 
 and the weather was so mild, that it had 
 become very soft. About ten miles from this 
 place, I left my guide, and came on forward 
 of him. I had not proceeded far, before I 
 wandered from my proper course. I might 
 have followed my tracks back ; but this I was 
 unwilling to do, and I continued, therefore 
 to wander about during the remainder of the 
 day. The night came upon me, while I was 
 in a thick wood; and, as I had nothing to 
 
186 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 eat, I could only kindle up a fire, and en- 
 deavour to solace myself, by smoking my 
 pipe.— I passed the greater part of the night 
 in melancholy reflections on the unpleasant 
 condition, into which I had brought myself, 
 by leaving my guide. Very early in the morn- 
 ing, I left my fire, and commenced travelling, 
 without knowing what direction to take. 
 The sun was concealed by clouds, and the 
 rain fell copiously. Before I had gone far, I 
 perceived, at no great distance from me, a 
 pretty high hill, which I at length ascended, 
 with much difficulty. From its summit, 1 was 
 cheered by a prospect of this lake, at a con- 
 siderable distance from me. Having ascer- 
 tained the course which I must take, I de- 
 scended into the valley, and took the follow- 
 ing method to keep in the direction to the 
 fort. I at first marked a tree; and from 
 that, singled out one forward of me, to 
 which I proceeded; and by means of these 
 two fixed upon another, in a straight line 
 ahead; and continued the same operation, 
 for several hours, until, with great joy, I 
 reached the fort. And now, therefore, I desire 
 to return thanks to kind Providence, for 
 having once more directed my steps to my 
 home and my family. 
 
 Thursday, 21. The last night, an east 
 wind drove the ice to the other end of the 
 lake. 
 
 Tuesday, 23. This morning, the Natives 
 caught a sturgeon that would weigh about 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 187 
 
 two hundred and fifty pounds. We frequently 
 see in this lake, those which are much larger, 
 which we cannot take, for the want of nets, 
 sufficiently strong to hold them. 
 
 Saturday, August 15. Salmon begin to 
 come up this river. As soon as one is caught 
 the Natives always make a feast, to express 
 their joy at the arrival of these fish. The 
 person, who first sees a salmon in the river, 
 exclaims, Ta-loe nas-lay ! Ta-loe nas-lay I 
 in English, Salmon have arrived ! Salmon 
 have arrived ! and the exclamation is caught 
 with joy, and uttered with animation, by 
 every person in the village. 
 
 Wednesday, September 2. Mr. McDougall 
 and company, who came here on the 25th 
 ult. set out this morning, on their return 
 home, to McLeod's Lake. This visit has 
 afforded me much satisfaction. In this lonely 
 part of the world, we enjoy the pleasures of 
 social intercourse, when we are permitted to 
 spend a little time with a friend, with the 
 highest relish. 
 
 Sunday, October 25. Early this morning, 
 my people returned from the Rainy Lake. 
 By them I have received letters from home, 
 which have given me more satisfaction than 
 I can express. My friends are in good health, 
 and my beloved son George has arrived 
 safely among them. For these blessings, I 
 cannot be sufficiently thankful, unless a 
 merciful God is graciously pleased to change 
 my heart of stone into a heart of flesh. 
 
188 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Friday, November 6. We have now about 
 six inches of snow on the ground. — On the 
 27th ult. I set out for McLeod's Lake, where 
 I arrived on the 29th. I there found Mr. 
 John Stuart, who, with his company, arrived 
 the day before, from Fort Chipewyan. His 
 men are on their way to the Columbia 
 River, down which they will proceed under 
 Mr. J. G. McTavish. The coming winter, 
 they will pass near the source of that river. 
 At the Pacific Ocean, it is expected that 
 they will meet Donald McTavish, Esq., and 
 company, who were to sail from England, 
 last October, and proceed round Cape Horn 
 to the mouth of Columbia River. This after- 
 noon Mr. Stuart and myself, with our com- 
 pany, arrived at this place, (Stuart's Lake) 
 where both of us, God willing, shall pas^ 
 the ensuing winter. With us, are twenty-one 
 labouring men, one interpreter, and five 
 women, besides children. 
 
 Saturday, January 23, 1813. On the 29th 
 ult. Mr. Stuart and myself, with the most 
 of our people, went to purchase furs and 
 salmon, at Frazer's Lake and Stillas. The 
 last fall, but few salmon came, up this river. 
 At the two places, above mentioned, we were 
 so successful as to be able to procure a suf- 
 'ficient quantity. While at Frazer's Lake 
 Mr. Stuart, our interpreter and myself, came 
 near being massacred by the Indians of that 
 place, on account of the interpreter's wife, 
 who is a native of that village. Eighty or 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 189 
 
 ninety of the Indians armed themselves, some 
 with guns, some with bows and arrows, and 
 others with axes and clubs, for the purpose 
 of attacking us. By mild measures, however, 
 which I have generally found to be the best, 
 in the management of the Indians, we suc- 
 ceeded in appeasing their anger, so that we 
 suffered no injury ; and we finally separated, 
 to appearance, as good friends, as if nothing 
 unpleasant had occurred. Those who are 
 acquainted with the disposition of the Indians 
 and who are a little respected by them, may, 
 by humouring their feelings, generally, con- 
 troul them, almost as they please. 
 
 Sunday, February 21. Rocky Mountain 
 Portage Fort. Here I arrived this afternoon, 
 accompanied by five Canadians and one 
 Carrier. We left Stuart's Lake on the 6th 
 inst. and are on our way to Dun vegan, where 
 I am going to transact some business with 
 Mr. John McGillivray, who is there. As the 
 mountains, on both sides of the river, for 
 the distance of seventy or eighty miles, are 
 very lofty, there is generally a strong wind 
 passing, either up or down the stream, which, 
 at this season, renders it extremely cold and 
 disagreeable travelling. On the 18th, we 
 were in the heart of those mountains; and 
 we had to encounter such a strong head 
 wind, that my upper lip became very much 
 frozen, without my having perceived it at 
 the time. It is now much swollen, and very 
 painful. We all caught severe colds, in con- 
 
190 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 sequence of a fall of snow upon us, to the 
 depth of eight inches, after we had encamped 
 and resigned ourselves to sleep, the second, 
 night after leaving Stuart's Lake ; and I have 
 become unable to speak, excepting in a 
 whisper. It requires indeed, a strong con- 
 stitution, to conflict with the hardships, 
 incident to our mode of life. 
 
 We here find no person, excepting two Ca- 
 nadians. Mr. A. R. McLeod, who has charge 
 of this place, is now absent on a visit to his 
 hunter's tent, which is five days' march from 
 this. From such a distance, provisions are 
 obtained for this post, as there are very few 
 large animals at this season, in this vicinity, 
 in consequence, I presume, of the great depth 
 of snow, which always falls in places, so near 
 the mountain, as this. The people who are 
 here say, that the hunters had such difficulty 
 in finding animals of any kind, the last fall, 
 that they all passed five days, without any 
 kind of food. 
 
 Monday, March 1. Dun vegan. I have, at 
 length, reached this place, where I passed the 
 years 1809 and 1810, and revisiting it, many 
 a pleasing scene is recalled by memory, and 
 many hours of agTeeable conversation, which 
 I passed, with the gentlemen who were then 
 here, rise fresh to my recollection. — Mr. Mc- 
 Gillivray is now absent, on a visit to the 
 Lesser Slave Lake ; and Mr. Collin Campbell 
 has charge of the fort. 
 
 Sunday, 14. Mr. McGillivray returned, on 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 191 
 
 the 10th inst. He is an amiable and excellent 
 man ; and I have enjoyed his society, during 
 my short stay here, very highly. Having 
 completed my business here, I shall set out 
 tomorrow, on my return to Stuart's Lake. 
 I here received the intelligence, that Niagara 
 and Makana had surrendered to the British 
 forces; but not before many valuable lives 
 were lost, on both sides. 
 
 Sunday, April 4. Stuart's Lake. We left 
 Dunvegan on the 16th ult. and arrived here 
 this evening, without- having experienced any 
 disaster by the way. 
 
 Saturday, May 1. Present appearances 
 justify the expectation, that the ice in the 
 river will soon break up, so that our people 
 will be able to commence their journey to the 
 Rainy Lake with our returns, all of which 
 we have sent to McLeod's Lake, together 
 with letters to people in this country, and to 
 our friends in the civilized part of the world. 
 
 Thursday, 13. The weather is fine. In the 
 early part of the day, Mr. J. Stuart, accom- 
 panied by six Canadians and two of the 
 Natives, embarked on board of two canoes, 
 taking with him a small assortment of goods, 
 as a kind of pocket money, and provisions 
 sufficient for a month and a half. They are 
 going to join Mr. J. G. McTavish and his 
 company, at some place on the Columbia 
 River; and to proceed with them to the 
 ocean. Should Mr. Stuart be so successful as 
 to discover a water communication, between 
 
192 HARMON'S JOLTRNAL. 
 
 this and the Columbia, we shall, for the 
 future, obtain our Yearly supply of goods 
 by that route, and send our returns out that 
 way, to be shipped directly for Chma, in 
 yessels which the company, in that case, 
 design to build on the North West coast. 
 ^Tiile the execution of this coniprehensiye 
 plan is committed to others, my more humble 
 employment, in which, howeyer, I am quite 
 as sure of being successful, is to be, the sup- 
 erintendence of the affairs of New Caledonia. 
 No other people, perhaps, who pursue busi- 
 ness to obtain a liyelihood, haye so much 
 leisure, as we do. Few of us are employed 
 more, and many of us much less, than one 
 fifth of our time, in transacting the business 
 of the Company. The remaining four fifths 
 are at our own disposal. If we do not, with 
 such an opportunity, improye our under 
 standings, the fault must be our own; for 
 there are few posts, which are not tolerably 
 well supplied with books. These books are 
 not, indeed, all of the best kind ; but among 
 them are many which are yaluable. If I were 
 depriyed of these silent companions, many a 
 gloomy hour would pass oyer me, Eyen with 
 them, my spirit at times sinks, when I reflect 
 on the gTeat length of time which has elapsed, 
 since I left the land of my natiyity, and my 
 relatiyes and friends, to dwell in this sayage 
 country. These gloomy moments, thank 
 God, occur but seldom, and soon ghde away. 
 A Uttle reflection reconciles me to the lot, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 193 
 
 which Providence has assigned me, in the 
 world. 
 
 Saturday, June 12. A Sicanny has just 
 arrived, who states, that a Httle this side of 
 McLeod's Lake, where he was encamped with 
 his family, an Indian of the same tribe, 
 rushed out of the wood, and fired upon them, 
 and killed his wife. Her corpse he immedi- 
 ately burned upon the spot; and then, with 
 his son and two daughters, he proceeded 
 directly to this place.— All the savages, who 
 have had a near relation killed, are never 
 quiet until they have avenged the death, 
 either by killing the murderer, or some person 
 nearly related to him. This spirit of revenge 
 has occasioned the death of the old woman, 
 above mentioned, and she undoubtedly, de- 
 served to die ; for, the last summer, she per- 
 suaded her husband to go and kill the cousin 
 of her murderer, and that, merely because 
 her own son had been drowned. — The custom, 
 which extensively prevails among the Indians, 
 of revenging the natural death of a relative, 
 by the commission of murder, seems to 
 arise from a superstitious notion entertained 
 by them, that death, even when it takes place 
 n this manner, has, in some mysterious way, 
 been occasioned by a fellow creature. 
 
 Sunday, 20. Yesterday, an Indian of this 
 village killed another, who was on a visit 
 from the other end of this lake, just as he 
 was entering his canoe to return. The former 
 approached the latter, and gave him five 
 13 
 
194 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 stabs witli a lance, and ripped open his 
 bowels, in such a shocking manner, that his 
 entrails immediately fell upon the ground; 
 and he, of course, instantly expired. The 
 murderer made his escape; and the chief of 
 the village, wrapped the corpse in a moose 
 skin, and sent it to his relations. Notwith- 
 standing this conciliatory act, the people of 
 this place are apprehensive, that the relations 
 of the person murdered, will make war upon 
 them; and they will, therefore, set out to- 
 morrow, to go a considerable distance down 
 this river, where they will pass a greater 
 part of the summer, until harmony is re 
 stored between the two villages.— This mur- 
 derer has a wife, who is known to be a 
 worthless woman, with whom he supposed 
 that the person murdered had had improper 
 irntercourse ; and it was to revenge this, that 
 the act was committed. — All the Carriers are. 
 extremely jealous of their wives; while, to 
 their unmarried daughters, they cheerfully 
 allow every liberty ! 
 
 Thursday, August 12. Salmon begin to 
 make their appearance in this river, which 
 is a joyful event to us ; for the stock of pro- 
 visions which we have in the fort, is sufficient, 
 but for a few days, and the Natives, for some 
 time past, have suffered gTeatly for the want 
 of food. We ought to be thankful to our 
 merciful Preserver and Benefactor, who con- 
 tinually watches over us, and supplies our 
 wants. Often has he appeared for our relief, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 195 
 
 when we were in urgent need, and taught us, 
 that he is the proper object of our confidence. 
 Wednesday^ Septemher 1. A few days since,- 
 Mr. McDougall arrived here from McLeod^^ 
 Lake, and took all the people, belonging to 
 this fort, with him to Pinchy, to gather ber- 
 ries. Having been left entirely alone, I have! 
 had a favourable opportunity for serious 
 reflection, and for self examination; and I. 
 have been disposed to employ it for this pur- 
 pose. On reviewing the exercises of my heart, 
 and the course of my conduct, during my 
 past hfe, I have been filled with astonishment 
 and with grief, in view of my wide departure^ 
 from the path of duty. My sins have riseii 
 in gloomy array before me, and I have been 
 led to feel, that I am, indeed, the chief of 
 sinners; and that, on account of my trans- 
 gressions, I deserve to be banished forever 
 from the gracious presence of God, and to be 
 consigned to the world of future misery. 
 This view of my guilt would have been over- 
 whelming, had not God been graciously 
 pleased, as I trust, to reveal the Saviour to 
 me, in his glorious fullness, as an all sufficient 
 and an accepted Mediator between sinful men 
 and the offended majesty of heaven. He has 
 appeared to me amiable in himself, and en- 
 tirely suited to my necessities ; and I humbly 
 hope that I have committed my soul to him, 
 to be washed from the defilement of sin in 
 his blood, to be accepted of God through his 
 intercession, and to be sanctified by his 
 
196 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Spirit. The change in mj views and feel- 
 ings, is certainly great; and it is surprising 
 to myself. WTiat I once considered as the 
 foibles and follies of my youth, now appear 
 to be grievous sins, against a righteous and 
 a long suffering God ; and a religious course 
 of life, I regard as the path, not only of wis- 
 dom, but of happiness; and by the aid of 
 Divine grace, it is my resolution, for the 
 time to come, to labour after a compliance 
 with every Divine requirement. 
 
 Until this day, I have always doubted 
 whether such a Saviour as the scriptures de- 
 scribe, ever really existed, and appeared on 
 earth ! So blind was I, that I could see no 
 necessity for an atoning Mediator between 
 God and men. Before I left the civilized part 
 of the world, I had frequently heard the 
 cavils of infidelity urged; and these cavils 
 followed me into the wilderness, frequently 
 came fresh to my recollection, and con- 
 tributed to overshadow my mind with the 
 gloomy doubts of infidelity. My intention, 
 however, was, by no means to cast off all 
 religion ; but, I attempted to frame to myself 
 a religion, which would comport with my 
 feelings, and with my manner of life. — For 
 several years past, however, my mind has 
 not been at rest. I was taught in early life, 
 by parents whom I respected and loved, the 
 truths and duties of Christianity ; and I had 
 a wish to believe in the same religion which 
 they professed, and from which, I have fre- 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 197 
 
 quently heard them say, they derived the 
 most substantial consolation. I, therefore, 
 some time since, commenced reading the 
 Bible, with more attention than I had before 
 done; for, from my youth up, I had been 
 accustomed to read it. I also read all other 
 books that I could find, which treated of the 
 christian religion. Some excellent notes, re- 
 specting the Saviour, in the Universal History, 
 affected my mind much; as did, also, the 
 serious letters which I received, every year, 
 from my brother Stephen. I also prayed a 
 gracious God to enable me to believe on I is 
 Son, the Lord Jesus Christ. As I was pray- 
 ing to-day, on a sudden, the faith, respecting 
 which I was so solicitous, was, I trust, gra- 
 ciously granted to me. My views of the Sav- 
 iour,- underwent a total change. I was en- 
 abled, not only to believe in his existence, 
 but to apprehend his superlative excellency; 
 and now he appears to be, in truth, what 
 the scriptures describe him to be, the chiefest 
 among ten thousand, and one altogether 
 lovely. May the grace of God enable me to 
 follow his heavenly example through life, 
 that I may dwell with him in glory, forever ! 
 As I seem to myself to have hitherto led 
 a more wicked life than the rest of my fellow 
 creatures, I deem it proper, for the time to 
 come, to devote the first day of every month 
 to religious fasting, employing it in reading 
 the scriptures, in devout meditation, and in 
 prayer, that I may keep in mind the great 
 
198 HAEMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 business of life, which I now consider to be, 
 a preparation for eternity. My prayer shall 
 ever be, that a gracious God would be 
 pleased to blot out my numberless and ag- 
 gravated transgressions, for the sake of the 
 atonement which Jesus has made; and that 
 he would keep me, by his grace, without 
 which, I am convinced I can do nothing 
 acceptable to him, in the path of holiness, 
 until it shall terminate in heavenly glory. 
 
 Tuesday, 7. I have this day composed 
 two prayers, which I design to use regularly 
 and devoutly, morning and evening. It is 
 not only a duty, but a privilege, thus to ap- 
 proach the mercy seat of the great Sovereign 
 of the Universe, in the name of a prevalent 
 Intercessor, and to supplicate the numerous 
 blessings which we need, as well as to give 
 thanks for those which we are continually 
 receiving. 
 
 Saturday, 25. An Indian has arrived, from 
 a considerable distance do^m this river, who 
 has delivered to me three letters from Mr. J. 
 Stuart. The last of them is dated at 0-ke- 
 na-gun Lake, which is situated at a short 
 distance from the Columbia River. Mr. 
 Stuart writes, that he met with every kind- 
 ness and assistance from the Natives, on 
 his way to that place ; that, after descending 
 this river, during eight days, he was under 
 the necessity of leaving his canoes, and of 
 taking his property on horses, more than 
 one hundred and fifty miles, to the above 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 199 
 
 mentioned Lake. From that place, he states, 
 that thej can go all the way by water, to 
 the Ocean, by making a few portages; and 
 he hopes to reach the Pacific Ocean, in twelve 
 or fifteen days, at farthest. They will be de- 
 layed, for a time, where they are, by the 
 necessary construction of canoes. 
 
 Friday, October 1. The first of my ap- 
 pointe I days of religious fasting, has arrived ; 
 and I have endeavoured to observe it, agree- 
 ably to my resolution. 
 
 Sunday, November 7. This afternoon, Mr. 
 Joseph La Roque and company arrived from 
 the Columbia River. This gentleman went, 
 the last summer, with Mr. J. G. McTavish 
 and his party, to the Pacific Ocean. On their 
 return, they met Mr. Stuart and his company. 
 Mr. La Roque, accompanied by two of Mr. 
 Stuart's men, set off thence, to come to this 
 place, by the circuitous way of Red Deer 
 River, Lesser Slave Lake, and Dunvegan, 
 from which last place, they were accompanied 
 by my people, who have been, this summer, 
 to the Rainy Lake. By them I have received 
 a number of letters from people in this 
 country, and from my friends in the United 
 States. 
 
 Tuesday, December 14. On the 1st inst. I 
 set out for McLeod's Lake; and I there re- 
 ceived several letters from my brothers below, 
 which announce the truly afflicting intelli- 
 gence, that my beloved son George is no 
 longer to be numbered among the living ! 
 
200 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 He was in good health on the second of 
 March last, and a corpse on the eighteenth 
 of the same month.— For some time, I could 
 scarcely credit this intelligence ; though I had 
 no reason to doubt its truth. This dispen- 
 sation of divine providence is so unexpected, 
 and so afflictive, that at first, I could scarce- 
 ly bear up under it, with a becoming chris- 
 tian resignation. My tenderest affection was 
 placed upon this darling boy; and I fondly 
 hoped, that he would be the solace of my de- 
 clining years. But how delusive was this ex- 
 pectation ! How frail and perishing are all 
 earthly objects and enjoyments. A few days 
 since, in my imagination, I was often wander- 
 ing with delight, to the remote land of my 
 kindred, and parental love centered in this 
 promising son, for whom, principally, I wished 
 to live, and for whom I would have been 
 willing to die. Perhaps this child occupied 
 a place in my heart, which my God and 
 Saviour only may of right occupy. I hope 
 that this affliction may be the means of dis- 
 engaging my affections from an inordinate 
 attachment to earthly objects; and that it 
 may induce me to fix my confidence and hope 
 on things, which will never disappoint my ex- 
 pectation. The Judge of all the earth has 
 done right; and it becomes me to be still 
 and know, that he is God. I, too, must soon 
 die ; and this dispensation is, perhaps, a sea- 
 sonable warning to me, to be prepared to 
 meet my own dissolution. I desire that the 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 201 
 
 Holy Spirit may sanctify this affliction to 
 me, and make it subservient to this impor- 
 tant end. 
 
 On my return from McLeod's Lake, I was 
 accompanied by Mr. McDougall and family, 
 who came to mourn with me, and the mother 
 of my departed son, the loss of this dear 
 object of our mutual affection.— Her distress, 
 on receiving this intelligence, was greater, 
 if possible, than my own. I endeavoured, 
 by some introductory remarks, on the uncer- 
 tainty of earthly things, to prepare her mind 
 for the disclosure, which I was about to 
 make. Her fears were alarmed, by these 
 remarks; and, probably, she discovered in 
 my countenance, something to confirm them. 
 When I informed her that our beloved son 
 George was dead, she looked at me, with a 
 wild stare of agony, and immediately threw 
 herself upon the bed, where she continued, 
 in a state of delirium, during the succeeding 
 night. 
 
 Saturday, Januajry 22, 1814. On the 4th 
 inst. Mr. McDougall and family, left this 
 place, to return home. They were accompa- 
 nied by two men, who have gone to Peace 
 Kiver, with letters. — The same day, Mr. La 
 Roque and myself, accompanied by fourteen 
 of my people, went to Frazer's Lake. On the 
 9th I sent him, accompanied with two Ca- 
 nadians and two Indians, with letters to the 
 people, who are on the Columbia River. 
 After having purchased what furs I could, 
 
202 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 and a sufficient quantity of salmon, I set 
 out on my return home, where I arrived 
 this evening. 
 
 Friday, February 4. This evening, Mr. 
 Donald McLeunen and company, arrived here 
 from the Columbia Department, with a pack- 
 et of letters. One of these is from Mr. John 
 Stuart, informing me that the last autumn, 
 the North West Company purchased of the 
 Pacific Fur Company, all the furs which they 
 had bought of the Natives, and all the goods 
 which they had on hand. The people who 
 were engaged in the service of that company, 
 are to have a passage, the next summer, to 
 Montreal, in the canoes of the North West 
 Company, unless they choose to enter into 
 our service. 
 
 Sunday, April 17. As the ice appears to be 
 out of this river, I have sent Mr. McLeunen, 
 accompanied by two Canadians, in a small 
 canoe, with letters to the gentlemen on Co- 
 lumbia River. I am, therefore, deprived of 
 an agreeable companion, who, I expected 
 until lately, would pass the summer with me. 
 — Happy are those, who have an amiable 
 and intelligent friend, with whom they can, 
 at pleasure, converse. 
 
 Friday, 22. Sent off my people to Mc- 
 Leod's Lake, in order that they may be in 
 readiness to embark for the Rainy Lake, as 
 soon as the navigation opens. By them I 
 have, as usual, forwarded my letters, and 
 accounts of the place. If God permit, I shall 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 203 
 
 pass another summer at this place, having 
 with me ten persons. 
 
 As this is the only season of the year when 
 we can leave this country, now it is, that we 
 have the most ardent desire of visiting the 
 land of our nativity. At other seasons, the 
 impossibility of a departure, suppresses the 
 rising wish to go, stern necessity binds us to 
 our situation, and we rest in quietude until 
 the return of another spring. Then all the 
 finer feelings of affection take possession of 
 our souls; and their strength seems to be 
 increased, by the previous restraint, which 
 had been laid upon them. 
 
 Saturday, May 7. The weather is fine 
 and vegetation is far advanced, for the sea- 
 son. This lake is clear of ice; and the frost 
 is chiefly out of the ground. Swans, 
 bustards, and ducks, are numerous in the 
 rivers and lakes; and, during the last ten 
 days, an incredible number of cranes have 
 passed this, on their way to the north; but 
 none of them stopped here. 
 
 Three Indians have come to this place 
 from Frazer's Lake, to obtain the piece of a 
 garment, belonging to an Indian of that 
 place, which they say, was cut off by an 
 Indian of this village. They are so super- 
 stitious as firmly to believe, that, by virtue 
 of this piece of garment, the Indian, who has 
 it in his possession, is able to destroy the life 
 of its owner, at pleasure. 
 
 Friday, August 5. Salmon begin to come 
 
204 HARMON'S JOUl^NAL. 
 
 up this river. They are generally to be taken, 
 in considerable numbers, until the latter 
 part of September. During about a month, 
 they come up in multitudes ; and we can take 
 any number of them that we please. 
 
 Tuesday, September 20. We have had 
 but few salmon here, this year. It is only 
 in every second season, that they are very 
 numerous ; the reason of which, I am unable 
 to assign. 
 
 I have sent an Indian, with letters, to 
 Dunvegan, on Peace River, which is distant 
 from this place, at least, five hundred miles. 
 
 Friday, 30. We have had but a few sal- 
 mon in this river, during the past season. 
 We hope, however, that a kind Providence 
 has sent them to some of our neighbouring 
 villages, where we shall be able to purchase 
 what will be necessary, in addition to the 
 white fish, which we expect to take, for oti' 
 consumption, during the ensuing winter. But 
 let my condition be ever so deplorable, I 
 am resolved to place all my dependence on 
 that Being, who depends on no one. 
 
 Tuesday, October 18. This afternoon, I 
 was agreeably surprised by the arrival of 
 Mr. J. La Roque and company, in two 
 canoes, laden with goods, from Fort George, 
 at the mouth of the Columbia River, which 
 place they left, the latter part of last Au- 
 gust. Our vessels arrived there, in the 
 months of March and April ; and, soon after, 
 one of them set sail again, loaded with furs, 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 205 
 
 for Canton in China. — Mr. La Roque brings 
 the melancholy intelligence, that Messrs. D. 
 McTavish, Alexander Henry, and five sailors 
 were drowned, on the 22d of May last, in 
 going out in a boat, from fort George, to 
 the vessel called the Isaac Tod, which lay 
 at anchor without the bar, in going over 
 which, this disaster befel them. With the 
 former gentleman, I passed two winters at 
 Dun vegan, on Peace River. He stood high 
 in my esteem, and I considered him as one 
 of my best friends; and I shall ever lament 
 the sad catastrophe, which has thus suddenly 
 removed him from my society, and from 
 all earthly scenes. I hope that I may not 
 be regardless of the admonition, addressee^ 
 to me by this providence, to be also ready 
 for my departure, to the world of spirits. 
 
 Monday, 24. Sent Mr. La Roque, and 
 the people who came up with him, to re- 
 establish the post at Frazer's Lake. 
 
 Saturday, 29. My people have returned 
 from the Rainy Lake, and delivered me let- 
 ters from my relatives below. They afford 
 me renewed proof of the uncertainty of earthly 
 objects and enjoyments, in the intelligence, 
 that a brother's wife has been cut down by 
 death, in the midst of her days, leaving a 
 disconsolate husband, and two young chil- 
 dren, to mourn over her early departure. I 
 ought, however, to be thankful, that the 
 rest of my numerous relatives, are blessed 
 with health, and a reasonable portion of 
 
206 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 earthly comforts. I have also received a 
 letter from Mr. John Stuart, who has ar- 
 rived at McLeod's Lake, desiring me to go 
 and superintend the affairs at Frazer's Lake, 
 and to send Mr. La Roque, with several 
 of the people who are there, to this place, 
 that they may return to the Columbia de- 
 partment, where it is presumed they will be 
 more wanted, than in this quarter. To- 
 morrow, therefore, I shall depart for Frazer's 
 Lake. 
 
 Thursday, Xovember 3. Frazer's Lake. 
 Here we arrived this afternoon, and found 
 Mr. La Roque and his people, busily em- 
 ployed, in bartering with the Natives, for 
 furs and salmon, and in constructing houses. 
 With this gentleman, I have spent a pleasant 
 evening ; and I am happy to find that, from 
 having been thoughtless and dissolute, he 
 now appears to be the reverse of this. It is 
 manifest, that he has recently reflected much, 
 on the vanity of this world, and on the im- 
 portance of the concerns of eternity ; and he 
 now appears determined, by the aids of 
 God's Holy Spirit, on a thorough reforma- 
 tion. May he be enabled to persevere in 
 this important undertaking. 
 
 Tuesday, December 20. Messrs. Stuart 
 and McDougall, with a number of men, have 
 arrived from Stuart's Lake, for the purpose 
 of proceeding ^th me to Stilla, in order to 
 purchase salmon. The Indians of this vil- 
 lage have not a sufficiency for themselves and 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 207 
 
 for us, owing to the scarcity of salmon at 
 several neighbouring villages, whose inhab- 
 itants flock to this place, in hopes of ob- 
 taining a subsistence, during the winter. 
 
 Saturday, January 7, 1815. On the 29th 
 ult. I accompanied my two friends to Stuart's 
 Lake, where we passed the holidays together, 
 in the intercourse of an intimate and endear- 
 ing friendship. Each related how he had 
 passed his youthful days, and even in what 
 manner he had lived to the present hour; 
 and we all readily acknowledged, that our 
 lives had been very different from what we 
 then wished they had been. I hope and 
 believe, that we all parted, fully determined 
 on a thorough reformation of conduct. May 
 none of us fail to carry this resolution into 
 effect. 
 
 Friday, February 3. During the whole 
 of the last month, it has been the coldest 
 weather, by far, that I have ever experi- 
 enced, in New Caledonia. 
 
 On the 11th ult. accompanied by six of 
 my people and two of the Natives, I set 
 out to visit the lands of the Nas-koo-tains, 
 which lie along Frazer's River. This river 
 Mr. Stuart followed some distance, when 
 he left this place to proceed to the Columbia 
 River. The above mentioned Indians never 
 had any intercourse with the white people, 
 until I went among them. We reached their 
 first village, on the 19th; but as they were 
 nearly destitute of provisions, and we had 
 
208 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 expended those which we took with us from 
 this place, we passed only one night with 
 them. The next morning, we continued 
 our route down the river, every day passing 
 one or two small villages, until the 22d, 
 when we met people from the Columbia River, 
 with letters, <S:c. 
 
 Frazer's River is about fifty rods wide, 
 and has a pretty strong current. On the 
 north side, the bank is generaly high; but, 
 on the other, it is low, and the country is 
 level. In going from this, to the place where 
 we fell upon the river, we occupied nine days, 
 and the country which we passed over, is 
 very uneven. We, however, crossed several 
 ponds and small lakes, which were from 
 one to fifteen miles in length. At these 
 waters, the Natives pass the gTeater part of 
 the summer, and subsist on excellent white 
 fish, trout and carp ; but, towards the latter 
 part of August, they return to the banks 
 of the river, in order to take and dry salmon, 
 for their subsistence during the succeeding 
 winter. 
 
 Sunday, 12. As salmon are becoming 
 rather scarce among the Indians of this 
 village, they are preparing to visit the neigh- 
 bouring lakes, in order to obtain a subsist- 
 ence, from the fish that they hope to be 
 able to take out of them. 
 
 Monday, 27. The weather is serene and 
 cold; and thus far, this has been much the 
 coldest winter that I have experienced in this 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 209 
 
 part of the country. — The winters are, gen- 
 erally milder here, than in most parts of 
 the North West. Mr. Stuart has just left 
 me, on his return home. The few days which 
 he has spent here, were passed much to our 
 mutual satisfaction; and I hope that we 
 shall reap some benefit from this visit. Re- 
 ligion was the principal topic, on which we 
 conversed, because, to both of us, it was 
 more interesting than any other. Indeed, 
 what ought to interest us so much, as that 
 which concerns our eternal welfare? I, at 
 times, almost envy the satisfaction of those, 
 who live among christian people, with whom 
 they can converse, at pleasure, on the great 
 things of religion, as it must be a source 
 of much satisfaction, and of great advantage, 
 to a pious mind. 
 
 Thursday, April 6. About ten days since, 
 an Indian of this place lost his wife, after 
 a lingering illness of several months; and, 
 shortly after, the disconsolate husband hung 
 himself from the limb of a tree. For several 
 days previous to the fatal act, he appeared 
 to be much cast down, which being observed 
 by his companions, they endeavoured to cheer 
 his spirits, by the consideration, that what 
 had befallen him, had been suffered by mul- 
 titudes of others, and was the common lot. 
 He replied that .he should conduct as his 
 own feelings dictated ; and that he had not 
 forgotten the request of his dying companion, 
 which was, that he would accompany her. 
 14 
 
210 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Not long after, lie was missing; and, search 
 being made for him, he was found in the 
 situation above mentioned. The strength 
 of conjugal attachment is not an unfrequent 
 cause of suicide, in every part of the Indian 
 country. 
 
 Monday, 24. The snow is fast leaving us, 
 and fowls begin to come from the south. 
 
 Wednesday, 26. I have sent letters to 
 my friends below, to Stuart's Lake, which 
 place they will leave, on their way, the first 
 of next month. I expect to pass the ensuing 
 summer here, having but a few people with 
 me. But, by dividing my time between read- 
 ing, meditation and exercise, I hope that 
 it will pass not unpleasantly, away. 
 
 Wednesday, May 10. We have surrounded 
 a piece of ground with pahsades, for a garden, 
 in which we have planted a few potatoes, 
 and sowed onion, carrot, beet and parsnip 
 seeds, and a little barley. I have, also, 
 planted a very little Indian corn, without 
 the expectation that it will come to maturity. 
 The nights in this region are too cool, and 
 the summers are too short, to admit of its 
 ripening. There is not a month in the whole 
 year, in which water does not congeal; 
 though the air in the day time, in the sum- 
 mer, is warm, and we even have a few days 
 of sultry weather.— The soil, in many places 
 in New Caledonia, is tolerably good. 
 
 Tuesday, May 30. I have just returned 
 from a visit to Mr. Stuart, who passes the 
 
HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 211 
 
 summer at Stuart's Lake. On the mountain, 
 which I crossed in going there, I found snow, 
 two feet, at least, in depth. 
 
 Friday, June 16. Soon after the Natives 
 left their village, last February, to go to 
 the small lakes, for the purpose of taking- 
 fish, four of their number deceased. Their 
 corpses were kept, by their relations, to the 
 present time, when they are bringing them 
 to the village in order to burn them. Little 
 else but the skeletons, now remain. — In the 
 winter season, the Carriers often keep their 
 dead in their huts during five or six months, 
 before they will allow them to be burned. 
 At this season, the coldness of the weather 
 enables them to keep the bodies, without 
 their becoming offensive; and they are un- 
 willing that the lifeless remains of the objects 
 of their affection, should be removed forever 
 from their sight, until it becomes a matter 
 of necessity. 
 
 Sunday, 18. This afternoon eight of the 
 Nate-ote-tains came to pay a visit to the 
 Indians of this village, by whom they were, 
 at first, treated in a friendly manner. Soon 
 after their arrival, they began to play, as is 
 the custom of the Indians, whenever the 
 people of different villages meet. Things 
 proceeded smoothly, until the strangers 
 began to be winners, when disputes arose. 
 An open contest was prevented, by the res- 
 toration of the property won ; but a coolness 
 between the parties, was visible. The stran- 
 
212 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 gerssoon set out, to return home; but as they 
 Y/ere embarking in their canoes, a worthless 
 fellow fired upon them, and killed one of 
 them. This disaster caused them to hasten 
 their departure, uttering at the same time 
 the threat, that they would soon return, 
 with a large band of their relations, to 
 revenge the death of their companion.— 
 Human life is often sacrificed for a trifle, 
 among the savages; and he only may feel 
 secure, who is prepared to oppose strength 
 to aggression. 
 
 Monday f July 24. Fruits, of various 
 kinds, now begin to ripen. Of this dehcious 
 food, the present prospect is, that we shall 
 soon have an abundance; and for this favour, 
 it becomes us to be gTateful to the Beslower. 
 The person who is surrounded with the com- 
 forts of civilized life, knows not how we 
 prize these delicacies of the wilderness. Our 
 circumstances, also, teach us to enjoy and 
 to value the intercourse of friendship. To 
 be connected, and to have intercourse, with 
 a warm and disinterested friend, who is able, 
 and -uill be faithful, to point out our faults, 
 and to direct us by his good counsel, is 
 surely a gTeat blessing. Such a friend, I 
 have, in my nearest neighbour, Mr. Stuart. 
 For some time past, he has frequently writ- 
 ten to me long, entertaining and instructive 
 letters, which are a cordial to my spirits, 
 too often dejected, by the loneliness of my 
 situation, and more frequently, by reflections 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 213 
 
 on my past life of folly and of sin. Mr. 
 James McDougall, also, another gentleman in 
 this department, is equally dear to me. His 
 distance from me, renders intercourse less 
 practicable ; but when we meet, we endeavour 
 to make up in conversation, for our long 
 separation. 
 
 Friday, August 4. The holy scriptures 
 contain the most abundant instruction, in re- 
 gard to the duties which we owe to God, and to 
 our fellow creatures. To aidmein keeping these 
 instructions, habitually and distinctly in view, 
 that my life may thereby be more exemplary, 
 I think proper to form the following resolu- 
 tions, which I hope, by the aid of the Holy 
 Spirit, to be enabled to observe, during my 
 life. 
 
 Resolved, that the scoffs of the wicked, di- 
 rected against serious religion, shall never 
 have any other effect upon me, than to 
 make me strive, the more earnestly, to lead 
 the life of a sincere christian. 
 
 Resolved, to be in the company of the 
 wicked, as little as possible ; and when among 
 such people, to endeavour to persuade them 
 in such a way as may be consistent with 
 propriety, to forsake their evil courses. 
 
 Resolved, to assist the poor and needy, 
 so far as may be consistent with my means ; 
 hoping that avarice may never prevent me 
 from judging correctly, in regard to this 
 subject. 
 
 Resolved, never to let a day pass, when 
 
214 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 at home, or when convenient, abroad, with- 
 out reading a portion of the holy scrip- 
 tures, and spending half an hour or more, 
 in meditating on what I have read ; and that 
 the whole of the Sabbath, when it is not in 
 my power to attend publick worship, shall 
 be spent in prayer, reading the bible, or 
 sermons, or some other religious book, in 
 self examination, and in meditating on the 
 eternal world. 
 
 Resolved, to offer up daily prayers to 
 the throne of grace, for a right temper of 
 mind, that I may be constant and diligent, 
 in strictly observing the above resolutions. 
 And I pray that my humble endeavours may, 
 by the blessing of God, keep me in the path 
 of holiness, so that I may, from day to day, 
 become better prepared to enter the world 
 of bliss, whenever my Maker and Redeemer 
 shall see fit to terminate my mortal course. 
 Amen. 
 
 Monday, 7. At half past seven, A. M. 
 we had an earthquake, which lasted about 
 twenty seconds. At that time I was sitting 
 in a chair, in the house, and the agitation 
 put me, and the whole house, in a motion 
 like that of a canoe when rolled about by 
 considerable swells. The Natives say, that 
 a similar shaking of the earth occurs, almost 
 yearly, at this place. 
 
 Sunday, 13. Salmon begin to come up 
 this river, which lights up joy in the counte- 
 nances, both of ourselves and of the Natives j 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 215 
 
 for we had all become nearly destitute of 
 provisions, of any kind. A kind Providence 
 will not allow us to suffer want, though we 
 so little deserve favours. 
 
 Monday, October 2. Within a few days 
 past, we have caught, in nets made for the 
 purpose, of strong twine, three sturgeon, one 
 of which measured ten feet and three inches 
 in length, and four feet and one inch round 
 his middle, which might weigh about four 
 hundred pounds. All that we have taken, 
 were uncommonly fat, and of the best flavour 
 of any that I have ever eaten. 
 
 Friday, 13. This afternoon, the Natives 
 sent for me to come and see one of their 
 young women, who lay at the point of death, 
 at their village ; and, merely to please them, 
 I went, without expecting to render her any 
 service, especially with the medicines which 
 we have here. I found her so far gone that 
 I thought it would not be proper to give her 
 any thing. I told the Indians, moreover, 
 that if she should die, shortly after taking 
 our medicines, they would say, as they ever 
 do in such cases, that I was the cause of 
 her death. They assured me however, to 
 the contrary ; and I gave her a simple medi- 
 cine, which I supposed could do her neither 
 good nor harm, with which they Were 
 satisfied. 
 
 I understood that her relations had said, 
 that a certain Indian, by his magic, had caused 
 her illness, and that he would finally take 
 
216 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 her life. I, therefore, took this opportunity 
 of repeating again, what I had often told 
 them before, that God, the infinitely power- 
 ful being, who made every thing, had alone 
 the power of causing their dissolution, when- 
 ever he thought proper. Upon this, one of 
 the chiefs, who thought himself more knowing 
 than the others, observed, that it was the 
 God of the salmon, who remained at the 
 sea, who was taking the girl's life. I re- 
 plied, that God is in heaven above; but 
 that, so searching are his eyes, he can easily 
 see what takes place on the face of the whole 
 earth. They said, it might be so; but they 
 could not conceive, by what means I came 
 to have a knowledge of these things. This, 
 I endeavoured to explain to them. 
 
 Weclnesch\v, Xovember 1. This afternoon, 
 three of our men arrived from the Rainy 
 Lake, who say that they left the remainder 
 of their company at McLeod's and Stuart's 
 Lakes. They delivered me letters from people 
 jn this country; but none from home. By 
 the men in the other canoes, I hope to re- 
 ceive letters from my friends below. We 
 are happy to be informed, that peace has 
 taken place between Great Britain and the 
 United States. My earnest desire is, that 
 they may long continue to enjoy this blessing. 
 
 Thursday, 16. We have now about three 
 inches of snow on the ground. 
 
 Sunday, March 17, 1816. In consequence 
 of the late arrival, at fort Chipewyan, of 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 217 
 
 the men who went to the Eainj Lake, two 
 canoes, which were expected last fall, could 
 not then proceed here, which is the reason why 
 I have but just received the letters that I then 
 expected, from my friends below. They bring 
 me the distressing intelligence, that two of 
 my brothers are brought, by a consump- 
 tion, to the borders of the grave. Happy 
 should I consider myself, could I once more 
 see them in this world. But, if this may 
 not be, the will of the Lord be done. By 
 this affliction I have renewed proof, that 
 this world cannot be my rest ; and I pray 
 God to prepare me, and my dying brothers, 
 for that happy abode, where a separation 
 of friends never causes the heart to bleed. 
 
 Monday, April 15. My desire to return 
 to my native country has never been so 
 intense, since I took up my abode in the 
 wilderness, as it is now, in consequence of 
 the peculiar situation of my friends; yet, 
 I cannot think of doing it this season, as 
 it is absolutely necessary that I should pass 
 the ensuing summer at this place. 
 
 I shall write to my friends below, a few 
 days hence; and as we live in a world of 
 disappointment and death, I am resolved 
 to forward to them by Mr. John Stuart, 
 a copy of my Journal, in order that they 
 may know something of the manner in which 
 I have been employed, both as it respects 
 my temporal and spiritual concd'ns, while 
 in the wilderness, if I should never enjoy 
 
218 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 the inexpressible pleasure of a personal inter- 
 course with them. 
 
 Wednesday, 24. I have just returned 
 from Stuart's Lake. While there, I agreed 
 with Mr. George McDougall to remain in 
 this country two years or more, as clerk to 
 the North West company. He came out 
 the last summer from Canada, with Lord 
 Selkirk's party, without haying obligated 
 himself to continue with them, for any defi- 
 nite time. After they arriyed at Fort Ver- 
 milion on Peace Riyer, he was treated by 
 his superiour, Mr. John Clarke, in so unbe- 
 coming a manner, that he left them, and had 
 come into this quarter to yisit his brother, 
 Mr. James McDougall, before he should re- 
 turn to Canada, which he designed to do 
 the ensuing summer. 
 
 Saturday, July 20. Strawberries begin 
 to ripen, and we haye the prospect of an 
 abundance of them, as well as of other kinds 
 of fruit. 
 
 I now pass a short time eyery day, very 
 pleasantly, in teaching my little daughter 
 Polly to read and spell words in the Eng- 
 lish language, in which she makes good 
 progress, though she knows not the mean- 
 ing of one of them. In conyersing with my 
 children, I use entirely the Cree, Indian lan- 
 guage; with their mother I more frequently 
 employ the French. Her native tongue, how- 
 ever, is more familiar to her, which is the 
 reason why our children have been taught 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 219 
 
 to speak that, in preference to the French 
 language. 
 
 Tuesday, September 9. Salmon begin to 
 come up this river. 
 
 Thursday, October 3. We have taken 
 our vegetables out of the ground. We have 
 forty-one bushels of potatoes, the produce 
 of one bushel planted the last spring. Our 
 turnips, barley, &c. have produced well. 
 
 Saturday, November 23. By our people 
 who returned this afternoon from the Rainy 
 Lake, I have received letters, which announce 
 the afflictive intelligence, that two of my 
 brothers, of whose decline I had before been 
 informed, are gone into eternity. The happy 
 days that I had fondly hoped that I should 
 pass in their society on earth, I shall never 
 enjoy. Such is the uncertainty of all earthly 
 expectations. But the Judge of all the earth 
 has done right.— My departed brothers gave 
 evidence, to those around them, that they 
 died in the faith and hope and peace of 
 the gospel. They are gone, I trust, to a 
 world where sin and suffering cannot follow 
 them. 
 
 When the cold hands of death shall have 
 been laid upon a few more of my relatives, 
 there will be nothing remaining on the earth 
 to console me for their loss. Nothing revives 
 my drooping spirits in view of the departure 
 of my friends, one after another, from year 
 to year, into eternity, like the hope that, 
 through rich grace, I may be at length per- 
 
220 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 mitted to join their society, in a world of 
 perfect purity and of uninterrupted and ever- 
 lasting joy. 
 
 We rarely prize our blessings in a suitable 
 manner, until we learn their value by being 
 deprived of them. I feel the force of this 
 truth, in regard to my deceased brothers. 
 To one of them in a particular manner, I am 
 deeply indebted ; and I have never been fully 
 sensible of his worth, until now. During 
 the whole period of my residence in this 
 country, he has written to me annually, 
 long, affectionate, and instructive letters. 
 For a number of years past, religion was the 
 gTeat subject of them. He was tenderly con- 
 cerned for my spiritual welfare; and doubt- 
 less learned from my letters, that I was 
 lingering on the gloomy confines of infidelity, 
 and little disposed to heed, as I ought to 
 have done, his friendly admonition. So 
 far from being discouraged by this circum- 
 stance, it only rendered him more vigorous 
 and persevering in his efforts ; and his letters 
 stand chief among the means, which have 
 been blessed, as I would hope, to my con- 
 version from the love and practice of sin, 
 to the fear and service of God. These letters 
 have also been of use to the fev»; friends, to 
 whom I have shown them. It would have 
 given me great pleasure to have acknowl- 
 edged, in person, the obligation which I am 
 under to him; but it becomes not me to 
 dictate to infinite wisdom. » 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 221 
 
 I have, also, received letters from gentle- 
 men in different parts of this country, which 
 inform me of the many disasters that befel 
 the people whom Lord Selkirk sent the year 
 before, from Scotland, the Orkney Islands, 
 and Canada, some of whom were destined 
 to form a colony on the Red River, and 
 others to traffic with the Natives, in dif- 
 ferent parts of the Indian country. They 
 consisted at first, as I am informed, of two 
 or three hundred men, together with a few 
 women and children. Those, who went to 
 establish themselves on the Red River, at a 
 short distance from its entrance into the 
 great Winnipick Lake, began, soon after 
 their arrival, to behave in a hostile manner 
 toward the people of th« North West Com- 
 pany, who have establishments in that quar- 
 ter. Of some of our forts, they actually 
 took possession, and carried away the prop- 
 erty which they found in them ; and, in some 
 instances, they set fire to the forts, and 
 reduced them to ashes. They also took 
 Duncan Cameron Esq. a partner of the North 
 West Company, and another gentleman, 
 who is a clerk, whom they carried, in the 
 spring, to Hudson's Bay, with the intention, 
 as they stated, of taking them to England. — 
 In the course of the winter, as the Express 
 of the North West Company was passing 
 that way, destined to the Soult St. Maries, 
 they took possession of that also, perused 
 the letters and other papers which had been 
 
222 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 sealed up, and finally carried them to York 
 Factory, at Hudson's Bay. 
 
 All this unmerited treatment, at length so 
 provoked the people of the North West Com- 
 pany, that they proceeded to retake their 
 own forts, which had not been burned, as 
 well as some property belonging to those 
 disturbers of the peace. 
 
 Ill June, a number of the Brules, that is, 
 people whose fathers were white men, and 
 whose mothers were Indian women, proceeded 
 from the upper part of Red River, toward 
 the place of* its entrance into the I^ake, in 
 order to guard some property there be- 
 longing to the N. W. Company. On their 
 way, they were obliged to pass, for about 
 two miles, over an open plain, directly behind 
 Lord Selkirk's establishment. As soon as 
 they were observed, his people came out in 
 a body, and fired upon them, twice. This 
 was unexpected by the Brules; neither were 
 they prepared for such an encounter, as 
 many of them had neither gun nor ammuni- 
 tion. Perceiving however, that they must 
 defend themselves or be cut off, those who 
 had arms returned the fire; and the contest 
 continued, until twenty two of the noble 
 Earl's people fell, and some others were 
 wounded. The Brules had only one man 
 killed, and one wounded. — This unhappy 
 affair broke up the colony. Some of the 
 people went to Hudson's Bay; but the 
 greater number returned to Canada. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 223 
 
 Those of Lord Selkirk's people who came 
 to the English Eiver and Athabasca, suf- 
 fered greatly for the want of provisions. 
 Out of nearly one hundred who came to 
 Athabasca, twelve actually lost their lives 
 by starvation ; and all the others must have 
 shared the same unhappy fate, had not the 
 people of the North West Company supplied 
 them with provisions. In short, Lord Sel- 
 kirk lost the last year, in fight and by star- 
 vation, sixty eight of his men ! and still, 
 with the phrenzy of a madman, he is re- 
 solved on pursuing his wild projects. 
 
 Wednesday, December 4. There is now 
 about a foot and an half of snow on the 
 ground. 
 
 I have sent fifteen men, with each a sledge 
 drawn by two dogs and loaded with salmon, 
 to McLeod's Lake, for the subsistence of 
 the people who are to pass the winter there 
 and for the additional number who will be 
 there in the spring, to make up the furs into 
 packs. Salmon are our chief subsistence 
 here ; and they are taken only in the waters 
 which are discharged into the Pacific Ocean. 
 The outlet of McLeod's Lake enters Peace 
 River, whose waters, are finally discharged 
 into the North Sea. 
 
 Thursday, January 2, 1817. I have just 
 returned from a neighbouring village, where 
 my interpreter gave one of the natives a 
 decent drubbing, for having stolen from us. 
 Soon after, the Indian who had been beaten, 
 
224 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 with a number of his relations, flew to arms, 
 and surrounded our camp; but they pro- 
 ceeded at first no farther than to gesticulate 
 in a threatening manner. This I permitted 
 them, for a short time, to do, when I ordered 
 my men to load their guns; though I was 
 determined that they should not fire, unless 
 it became a matter of necessity. I then told 
 the Natives that we were prepared to defend 
 ourselves, and, if they int-ended to fire upon 
 us, to begin; or otherwise, to walk off, and 
 lay aside their arms, which if they would 
 not do, we should fire upon them. They 
 concluded to retire, and shortly after came 
 back without their arms, and began to trade, 
 as if nothing had happened. 
 
 Monday, February 10. This evening the 
 mother of my children, was delivered of a 
 daughter, whom I name Sally Harmon. 
 
 Wednesday, 19. I am this day thirty 
 nine years of age. VThen I refiect on the 
 events of my past life, and recollect, especial- 
 ly, in how many instances a merciful God has 
 snatched me from the very jaws of death, 
 when it would undoubtedly have dehvered 
 me over to everlasting destruction, I am 
 grieved and ashamed, in view of the in- 
 gratitude with which I have requited such 
 infinite kindness. My past life now appears 
 to me to have been a continual course of 
 sins, committed against a merciful Creator, 
 Benefactor and Redeemer. I have even de- 
 nied the Lord that brought me, and that 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 225 
 
 because I could see no need of that atone- 
 ment for sin, which is the only thing that 
 has stood between me and hopeless perdition ! 
 If I have indeed been rescued from such a 
 wretched condition, if I have been effectually 
 convinced of my sinfulness, and have been 
 led, in the exercise of faith, to apply unto 
 the Lord Jesus Christ for pardon and for 
 sanctification, surely, it can be attributed to 
 nothing but the grace of God. Much of 
 my life has been spent in the service of sin; 
 the little that remains, ought to be sacredly 
 devoted to God and the Redeemer. May 
 the Holy Spirit enable me to live in the time 
 to come, as a disciple of the blessed Saviour. 
 Monday, September 1. Stuart's Lake. 
 On the 8th of May last, I left New Cale- 
 donia, and went as far as Fort Chipewyan, 
 on the Athabasca Lake. This afternoon, 
 I returned to this place. While I was at that 
 lake, the Indians who were encamped about 
 the fort, to the number of about one hun- 
 dred, rose up in arms against us, on account 
 of a quarrel between one of their people and 
 one of our men. We did not, however, come 
 to blows; and, after a parley, the Indians 
 were persuaded to lay down their arms.— 
 Those Chipeways are a savage people; and 
 they have as I believe, killed more white 
 men, than any other tribe in the North 
 West country. A few years since, they burned 
 one of our forts, and killed every person 
 belonging to it. 
 15 
 
226 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 On the 21st of June, I left Athabasca 
 Lake, at which period, there was still ice 
 floating about in it. In coming up Peace 
 River, we saw many of the buffaloe and red 
 deer, and killed as many of them as wci 
 wanted for oiir own consumption. Black 
 bears, also, were in plenty; and of them, we 
 killed eleven. One day as I was walking 
 along the beach alone without my gun, a 
 black bear, that had cubs, pursued me for 
 nearly a mile. Happily for me, I could oiit- 
 run her; and I therefore escaped from her 
 terrible paws. 
 
 A little below the Rocky Mountain Port- 
 age, along the side of the river, there is a 
 kind of marsh where earth, of a beautiful 
 yellow colour is found, which when burned, 
 becomes a pretty lively red. The natives use 
 it as paint, for which it answers tolerably 
 well. We, also, use it to paint our forts and 
 houses. 
 
 Saturday, October 4. This evening, an 
 Indian arrived from Frazer's Lake, bringing 
 the disagreeable intelligence, that yesterday 
 in the afternoon, our fort there was con- 
 sumed by fire. We have reason to be thank- 
 ful, however, that most of the property which 
 was in it, was saved. 
 
 Thursday, 16. We have taken our vegeta- 
 bles out of, the ground. In consequence of the 
 very dry summer, they have yielded but 
 poorly. There were months, during which 
 not a drop of rain fell.— Fruit of all kinds 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 227 
 
 has been uncommonly abundant this sea- 
 son. 
 
 Wednesday, February 18, 1818. 1 have 
 just returned from a jaunt of twenty three 
 days, to a place down Frazer's River. While 
 there, the Natives had concerted a plan to 
 massacre us all ; but I discovered it, and kept 
 my people on their guard. The Indians, per- 
 ceiving this, dared not attempt to execute 
 their bloody and unprovoked purpose. 
 
 Saturday, May 2. Expecting that the ice 
 in Peace River will soon break up, I have 
 sent off the last of our people who are going 
 to the Rainy lake; and by them I have for- 
 warded, as usual, my accounts of the place, 
 and letters to my friends below. I look for- 
 ward, with pleasing anticipation, to the re- 
 turn of another spring, when I hope, if my 
 life is spared, I shall myself leave this coun- 
 try on a visit to the civilized world. 
 
 Thursday, September 3. Last night, there 
 fell about four inches of snow, which is earlier 
 than I have ever before seen it fall, in this 
 part of the country. On the 6th ult. salmon 
 began to come up this river; but they are 
 not very numerous. 
 
 In the month of June, we took out of this 
 lake twenty one sturgeon, that were from 
 eight to twelve feet in length. One of them 
 measured twelve feet two inches, from its ex- 
 treme points, four feet eleven inches round the 
 middle; and would weigh from five hundred 
 and fifty, to six hundred pounds. All the 
 
228 HAKMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 sturgeon that we have caught, on this side of 
 the mountain, are far superior in flavour, to 
 any I ever saw in any other part of the 
 world. 
 
 A few days since, we cut down and threshed 
 our barley. The five quarts, which I sowed 
 on the first of May, have yielded as many 
 bushels. One acre of ground, producing in 
 the same proportion that this has done, 
 would yield eighty four bushels. This is 
 sufficient proof that the soil, in many places 
 in this quarter, is favourable to agriculture. 
 It will probably be long, however, before it 
 will exhibit the fruits of cultivation. The 
 Indians, though they often suffer for the want 
 of food, are too lazy to cultivate the ground. 
 I have frequently tried to prevail on some of 
 them to hoe and prepare a piece of ground, 
 promising them that I ^^ould give them po- 
 tatoes and turnips, with which to plant it ; 
 but I have not succeeded. Having been from 
 their infancy trained up to privation, the fear 
 of want is a much less powerful stimulus to 
 excite them to industry, than it is to those 
 who have always been accustomed to the 
 comforts of civilized life. 
 
 Tuesday, October 13. We have several 
 inches of snow on the ground. 
 
 For several years past, Iroquois from 
 Canada, have been in the habit of coming 
 into different parts of the North West coun- 
 try, to hunt the beaver, «fec. The Natives of 
 the country, consider them as intruders. As 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 2^1) 
 
 they are mere rovers, they do not feel the 
 same interest, as those who permanently 
 reside here, in keeping- the stock of animals 
 good, and therefore they make great havock 
 among the game, destroying alike the ani- 
 mals which are young and old. A number of 
 Iroquois have passed several summers on 
 this side of the mountain, which circumstance 
 they knew to be displeasing to the Indians 
 here, who have often threatened to kill them 
 if they persisted in destroying the animals on 
 their lands. These menaces were disregarded. 
 A month since, an Iroquois, with his wife and 
 two children, were all killed, while asleep, by 
 two Carriers of this village, which melancholy 
 event, I hope, will prevent any of the Iro- 
 quois from coming into this region again. 
 
 Saturday, November 7. We have now 
 about a foot of snow on the ground. — To- 
 day our people returned from the Kainy 
 Lake, and say that, on account of the large 
 quantities of ice that was drifting in Peace 
 River, they were obliged to leave the greater 
 part of the goods, which they had on board 
 Of the canoes, but a short distance this side 
 of the Rocky Mountain Portage. We shall 
 be obliged, therefore, to bring these goods on 
 sledges, drawn by dogs from that place, 
 which is distant from this, about two hun- 
 dred and eighty miles. 
 
 Saturday, February 28, 1819. Mr. George 
 McDougall has arrived here from Frazer's 
 Lake, to remain, as I am going to McLeod's 
 
280 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 Lake, to prepare for a departure for Head 
 Quarters; and my intention is, during the 
 next summer, to visit my native land. I 
 design, also, to take my family with me, and 
 leave them there, that they may be educated 
 in a civilized and christian manner. The 
 mother of my children will accompany me; 
 and, if she shall be satisfied to remain in that 
 part of the world, I design to make her regu- 
 larly my wife by a formal marriage. It will 
 be seen by this remark, that my intentions 
 have materially changed, since the time that 
 I at first took her to live with me; and as 
 my conduct in this respect is different from 
 that which has generally been pursued by the 
 gentlemen of the North West Company, it 
 will be proper to state some of the reasons 
 which have governed my decision, in regard 
 to this weighty affair. It has been made 
 with the most serious deliberation; and, I 
 hope, under a solemn sense of my accounta- 
 bility to God. 
 
 Having lived with this woman as my wife, 
 though we were never formally contracted to 
 each other, during life, and having children 
 by her, I consider that I am under a moral 
 obligation not to dissolve the connexion, if 
 she is willing to continue it. The union which 
 has been formed between us, in the providence 
 of God, has not only been cemented by a 
 long and mutual performance of kind offices, 
 but, also, by a more sacred consideration. 
 Ever since my own mind was turned effectually 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 231 
 
 to the subject of religion, I have taken 
 pains to instruct her in the great doctrines 
 and duties of Christianity. My exertions have 
 not been in vain. Through the merciful 
 agency of the Holy Spirit, I trust that she 
 has become a partaker with me, in the con- 
 solations and hopes of the gospel. I consider 
 it to be my duty to take her to a christian 
 land, where she may enjoy Divine ordinances, 
 ' grow in grace, and ripen for glory.— We have 
 wept together over the early departure of 
 several children, and especially, over the 
 death of a beloved son. We have children 
 still living, who are equally dear to us both. 
 How could I spend my days in the civilized 
 world, and leave my beloved children in the 
 wilderness? The thought has in it the bitter- 
 ness of death. How could I tear them from a 
 mother's love, and leave her to mourn over 
 their absence, to the day of her death? Pos- 
 sessing only the common feelings of human- 
 ity, how could I think of her, in such cir- 
 cumstances, without anguish? On the whole, 
 I consider the course which I design to pur- 
 sue, as the only one which religion and hu- 
 manity would justify. 
 
 Mr. McDougall informs me, that, not long 
 since, an Indian died at Frazer's Lake, and 
 left behind him a widow, who had been in 
 similar circumstances before, by the loss of a 
 former husband. A day or two before the 
 corpse was to be burned, she told the rela- 
 tions of her late husband, that she was 
 
232 HARMON'S JOURNAL. 
 
 resolved not to undergo a second slavery. 
 She therefore left the tent, secretly, in the 
 evening, and hung herself from a tree. 
 
 Among the Carriers, widows are slaves to 
 the relations of their deceased husbands, for 
 the term of two or three years from the 
 commencement of their widowhood, during 
 which, they are generally treated in a cruel 
 manner. Their heads are shaved, and it be- 
 longs to them to do all the drudgery, about- 
 the tent. They are frequently beaten with a 
 club or an axe, or some such weapon. 
 
 Saturday, May 8. McLeods Lake. I ar- 
 rived here about two months since. Yester- 
 day, the most of our people embarked with 
 the returns of this place, in three canoes ; and 
 a few hours hence, I shall, with my family, 
 proceed in another, which will be pushed on 
 by six Canadians. 
 
 It is now eight years and an half, since I 
 came to the west side of the Rocky Mountain. 
 My life, which has often been in jeopardy, is 
 still preserved ; my family have generally en- 
 joyed, in a high degree, the comfort Sj which 
 this part of the world affords ; and, especially, 
 they have been extensively blessed with 
 health of body, and contentment of mind. 
 Our worldly affairs have prospered, to as 
 great an extent as we could reasonably ex- 
 pect. For all these blessings, it becomes us 
 to return unfeigned thanks, to the great 
 Giver of every good gift. 
 
 Friday, 14. Rocky Mountain Portage. 
 
HARMON'S JOURNAL. 233 
 
 All the way to this place, we have drifted 
 down, amidst great quantities of ice, by 
 which, at five different places, the river was 
 completely blocked up, so that we were 
 obliged to tarry, until the water rose so 
 high, as to remove these barriers. This is 
 the reason why we have been so long in com- 
 ing to this place. Had the river been high, 
 and yet clear from ice, the current is so 
 strong, that we might have reached here in 
 two days. 
 
 Wednesday, August 18. Fort William. I 
 have at length arrived at head quarters. In 
 coming from New Caledonia to this place, 
 which is a distance of at least three thousand 
 miles, nothing uncommon has occurred. A 
 few days hence, I shall leave this place, to 
 proceed to Canada. As I have already de- 
 scribed the country between this, and Mon- 
 treal, I shall here conclude my Journal. 
 
CHARACTER 
 
 OF THE CANADIAN VOYAGERS. 
 
 Like their ancestors the French, the Cana- 
 dian Voyagers possess lively and fickle dis- 
 positions; and they are rarely subject to 
 depression of spirits, of long continuance, 
 even when in circumstances the most adverse. 
 Although what they consider good eating 
 and drinking constitutes their chief good, 
 yet, when necessity compels them to it, they 
 submit to great privation and hardship, not 
 only without complaining, but even with 
 cheerfulness and gaiety. They are very talka- 
 tive, and extremely thoughtless, and make 
 many resolutions, which are almost as soon 
 broken as formed. They never think of pro- 
 viding for future wants ; and seldom lay up 
 any part of their earnings, to serve them in 
 a day of sickness, or in the decline of life. 
 Trifling provocations will often throw them 
 into a rage; but they are easily appeased 
 when in anger, and they never harbour a 
 revengeful purpose against those, by whom 
 they conceive that they have been injured. 
 They are not brave; but when they appre- 
 
236 CANADIAN VOYAGERS 
 
 liend little danger, they will often, as thej 
 say, play the man. They are very deceitful, 
 are exceedingly smooth and polite, and are 
 even gross flatterers to the face of a person, 
 whom they will basely slander, behind his 
 back. They pay little regard to veracity or 
 to honesty. Their word is not to be trusted ; 
 and they are much addicted to pilfering, and 
 will even steal articles of considerable value, 
 when a favourable opportunity offers. A 
 secret they cannot keep. They rarely feel 
 gratitude, though they are often generous. 
 They are obedient, but not faithful servants. 
 By flattering their vanity, of which they have 
 not a little, they may be persuaded to under- 
 take the most difficult enterprises, provided 
 their lives are not endangered. Although 
 they are generally unable to read, yet they 
 acquire considerable knowledge of human 
 nature, and some general information, in 
 regard to the state of this country. As they 
 leave Canada while they are young, they 
 have but little knowledge of the principles of 
 the religion, which their Priests profess to 
 follow, and before they have been long in the 
 Indian country, they pay little more atten- 
 tion to the sabbath, or the worship of God, 
 or any other Divine institution, than the 
 savages themselves. 
 
AN 
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS 
 
 LIVING WEST OF THE 
 ROCKY MOUNTAIN. 
 
ACCOUNT, &c. 
 
 As the Indians living on the west side of 
 the Rocky Mountain, differ greatly in their 
 language, manners, customs, religion, «S:c. 
 from those on the east side, it may be proper 
 to give concisely a separate account of them, 
 and of the country which they inhabit. In 
 doing this, I shall dwell more particularly on 
 those things which are peculiar to these peo- 
 ple, as I design, in another place, to give a 
 general description of the Indians, which shall 
 have a principal reference, however, to the 
 more numerous tribes on the east side of the 
 Mountain. I shall, I hope, be pardoned, if 
 some repetition shall be found, of things con- 
 tained in my journal, as it cannot easily be 
 avoided. 
 
 That part of the country, west of the 
 Rocky Mountain, with which I am ac- 
 quainted, has, ever since the North West 
 Company first made an establishment there, 
 which was in 1806, gone by the name of 
 New Caledonia ; and may extend from north 
 to south, about five hundred miles, and from 
 east to west, three hundred and fifty or four 
 
240 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 hundred. The post at Stuart's Lake, is 
 nearly in the centre of it, and lies, as already 
 mentioned in my Journal, in 54° 30' North 
 Latitude, and in 125*^ West Longitude from 
 Greenwich. In this large extent of country, 
 there are not more than five thousand In- 
 dians, including men, women and children. 
 
 New Caledonia is considerably mountain- 
 ous. Between its elevated parts, however, 
 there are pretty extensive valleys, along 
 which pass innumerable small rivers and 
 brooks. It contains a great number of small 
 lakes, and two which are considerably large. 
 These are Stuart's Lake, which is about three 
 hundred miles in circumference, and Nate- 
 ote-tain Lake, which is nearly twice as large. 
 I am of the opinion that about one sixth 
 part of New Caledonia, is covered with water. 
 There are but two large rivers. One of these 
 I denominate Eraser's River, which may be 
 sixty or seventy rods wide. It rises in the 
 Rocky Mountain, within a short distance of 
 the source of Peace River; and is the river 
 which Sir Alexander McKenzie followed a 
 considerable distance, when he went to the 
 Pacific Ocean, in 1793, and which he took to 
 be the Columbia River ; but it is now known 
 to be several hundred miles north of that noble 
 stream. The other large river of New Cale- 
 donia, arises near Great Bear's Lake ; and 
 after passing through several considerable 
 lakes, it enters the Pacific Ocean, several 
 hundred miles north of Fraser's River. 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 241 
 
 The mountains of New Caledonia, in point 
 of elevation, are not to be compared with 
 those which we pass through in coming up 
 that part of Peace River, which lies between 
 the Rocky Mountain portage and Finlay's 
 Branch. There are some, however, which are 
 pretty lofty; and on the summits of one in 
 particular, which we see from Stuart's Lake, 
 the snow lies during the whole of the year. 
 
 The weather is not severely cold, except 
 for a few days in the winter, when the mer- 
 cury is sometimes as low as 32*^ below zero, 
 in Faranheit's thermometer. The remainder 
 of the season, is much milder than it is on 
 the other side of the mountain, in the same 
 Latitude. TKe summer is never very warm, 
 in the day time ; and the nights are generally 
 cool. In every month in the year, there are 
 frosts. Snow generally falls about, the fif- 
 teenth of November, and is all dissolved by 
 about the fifteenth of May. About McLeod'a 
 Lake the snow sometimes falls to the depth 
 of five feet ; and I imagine that it is to be 
 attributed to the great depth of the snow, 
 that no large animals of any kind, excepting 
 a few solitary ones, are to be met with. 
 
 There are a few Moose; and the Natives 
 occasionally, kill a black bear. Cariboo are 
 also found, at some seasons. Some smaller 
 animals are found, though they are not 
 numerous. They consist of beavers, otters, 
 lynxes or cats, fishers, martins, minks, wol- 
 verines, foxes of different kinds, badgers, pole- 
 i6 
 
242 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 cats, hares and a few wolves. The fowls are 
 swans, bustards, geese, cranes, ducks of 
 several kinds, partridges, &c. AU the lakes 
 and rivers are well furnished with excellent 
 fish. Thej are the sturgeon, white fish, trout, 
 sucker and many of a smaller kind. Salmon, 
 also, visit the streams, in very considerable 
 numbers, in Autumn. A small share of in- 
 dustry, therefore, would enable the Natives, 
 at aU times, to provide for themselves a suf- 
 ficient supply of agTeeable, wholesome and 
 nutritious food. 
 
 The Natives of New Caledonia, we denomi- 
 nate ^ Carriers ; but they call themselves Ta- 
 cul-lies, which signifies people who go upon 
 water. This name originated from the fact 
 that they generally go from one village to 
 another, in canoes. They are of the middle 
 stature, and the men are well proportioned; 
 but the women are generally short and 
 thick, and their lower limbs are dispropor- 
 tionately large. Both sexes are remarkably 
 negligent and slovenly, in regard to their 
 persons ; and they are filthy in their cookery. 
 Their dispositions are lively and quiet; and 
 they appear to be happy, or at least con- 
 tented, in their \^Tetched situation. They are 
 indolent ; but apparently more from habit 
 than by nature; and probably this trait in 
 their character, originates from the circum- 
 stance, that they procure a livelihood, with 
 but little labour. Whenever we employ any 
 of them, either to work about the fort or in 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 243 
 
 voyaging, they are sufficiently laborious and 
 active ; and they appear to be pleased, when 
 we thus furnish them with employment. 
 They are not in the habit of stealing articles 
 of great value; but they are the sliest pil- 
 ferers, perhaps, upon the face of the earth. 
 They will not only pilfer from us, but, when 
 favourable opportunities offer, they are 
 guilty of the same low vice among their 
 friends and relations. They are remarkably 
 fond of the white people. They seldom begin 
 a quarrel with any of us, though they are 
 naturally brave. When any of our people, 
 however, treat them ill, they defend them- 
 selves with courage, and with considerable 
 dexterity; and some of them will fight a 
 tolerable Canadian battle. 
 
 Their language is very similar to that of 
 the Chipewyans, and has a great affinity to 
 the tongues, spoken by the Beaver Indians 
 and the Sicannies. Between all the different 
 villages of the Carriers, there prevails a dif- 
 ference of dialect, to such an extent, that 
 they often give different names to the most 
 common utensils. Every village has its par- 
 ticular name, and its inhabitants are called 
 after the name of the village, in the same 
 manner as people in the civilized world re- 
 ceive a name, from the city or country which 
 they inhabit. 
 
 Their clothing consists of a covering made 
 of the skins of the beaver, badger, muskrat, 
 cat or hare. The last they cut into strips, 
 
244 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 about one inch broad, and then weave or 
 lace them together, until they become of a 
 sufficient size to cover their bodies, and to 
 reach to their knees. This garment they 
 put over their shoulders, and tie about their 
 waists. Instead of the above named skins, 
 when they can obtain them from us,' they 
 greatly prefer, and make use of blankets, 
 capots, or Canadian coats, cloth or moose 
 and red deer skin. They seldom use either 
 leggins or shoes, in the summer. At this 
 season the men often go naked, without any 
 thing to cover even that part of the body 
 which civilized, and the most, also of savage 
 people, think it necessary to conceal. Indeed 
 they manifest as little sense of shame in re- 
 gard to this subject, as the very brute crea- 
 tion. The women, however, in addition to 
 the robe of beaver or dressed moose skins, 
 wear an apron, twelve or eighteen inches 
 broad, which reaches nearly down to their 
 knees. These aprons are made of a piece of 
 deer skin, or of salmon skins, sewed together. 
 Of the skin of this fish, they sometimes make 
 leggins, shoes, bags, &c. but they are not 
 durable ; and therefore they prefer deer skins 
 and cloth, which are more pKable and soft. 
 The roughness of salmon skins, renders them 
 particularly unpleasant for aprons. 
 
 A few of the male Carriers recently make 
 use of the breech-cloth, made of cloth which 
 they procure from us; but as evidence that 
 no great sense of delicacy has induced them 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 245 
 
 to wear it, you will see it one day at its 
 proper place, the next, probably, about their 
 heads, and the third around their necks ; and 
 so on, repeatedly shifted from one place to 
 another. 
 
 Both sexes perforate their noses ; and from 
 them, the men often suspend an ornament, 
 consisting of a piece of an oyster shell, or a 
 small piece of brass or copper. The women, 
 particularly those who are young, run a 
 wooden pin through their noses, upon each 
 end of which they fix a kind of shell bead, 
 which is about an inch and an half long, and 
 nearly the size of the stem of a common clay 
 pipe. These beads, they obtain from their 
 neighbours, the At-e-nas, wlio purchase them 
 from another tribe, that is said to take them 
 on the sea shore, where they are reported to 
 be found in plenty. 
 
 All the Indians in this part of the coun- 
 try, are remarkably fond of these beads ; and 
 in their dealings with each other, they consti- 
 tute a kind of circulating medium, like the 
 money of civilized countries. Twenty of these 
 beads, they consider as equal in value to a 
 beaver's skin. The elderly people neglect to 
 ornament their heads, in the same manner as 
 they do the rest of their persons, and gener- 
 ally wear their hair short. But the younger 
 people of both sexes, who feel more solicitous 
 to make themselves agreeable to each other, 
 wash and paint their faces, and let their hair 
 grow long. The paint which they make use 
 
246 ACCOUNT OF THE IXDIAXS. 
 
 of, consists of vermilion, which they occasion- 
 ally obtain from us ; or more commonly, of a 
 red stone, pounded fine, of which there are 
 two kinds. The powder of one kind of these 
 stones, mixed with grease, and rubbed upon 
 theirfaces, gives them a glittering appearance. 
 
 The young women and girls wear a parcel 
 of European beads, strung together, and tied 
 to a lock of hair, directly behind each ear. 
 The men have a sort of collar of the shell 
 beads already mentioned, which they wind 
 about their heads, or throw around their 
 necks. In the summer season, both sexes 
 bathe often ; and this is the only time, when 
 the married people wash themselves. One of 
 their customs is sufficient to evince their ex- 
 treme filthiness, and that is, whenever they 
 blow their noses, they rub the mucus between 
 both hands, until they become dry. 
 
 Among the Carriers, it is customary for 
 the girls, from the age of eight to eleven 
 years, to wear a kind of veil or fringe over 
 their eyes, made either of strung beads, or of 
 narrow strips of deer skin, garnished with 
 porcupine quills. While of this age, they are 
 not allowed to eat any thing, excepting the 
 driest food ; and especially they may not eat 
 the head of any animal. If they should, their 
 relat'ons, as they imagine, would soon lan- 
 guish and die. The women, also, during their 
 pregnancy, and for some time after they are 
 delivered, are restricted to the same kind of 
 food. 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 247 
 
 The lads, as soon as they come to the age 
 of puberty, tie cords, wound with swan's 
 down, around each leg, a little below the 
 knee, which they wear during one year, and 
 then, they are considered as men. 
 
 The Carriers are unusually talkative; and 
 when fifteen or twenty of them get into a 
 house, they make an intolerable noise. Men, 
 women and children, keep their tongues con- 
 stantly in motion; and in controversy, he 
 who has the strongest and clearest voice is 
 of course heard the most easily, and, conse- 
 quently, succeeds best in his argument. They 
 take great delight, also, in singing, or hum- 
 ming, or whistling a dull air. In short, 
 whether at home or abroad, they can hardly 
 be contented with their mouths shut. It was 
 a long time before we could keep them still, 
 when they came to our forts. And even yetj 
 when they visit us, which is almost every 
 day, during the whole year, they will often, 
 inadvertently, break out into a song. But 
 as soon as we check them, or they recollect 
 of themselves what they are about, they stop 
 short; for they are desirous of pleasing. 
 The above trait in their character, certainly 
 evinces much contentment with their condi- 
 tion, and cheerfulness of spirit. 
 
 Both sexes, of almost every age, are much 
 addicted to play, or rather gambling. They 
 pass the greater part of their time, especially 
 in the winter season, and both days and 
 nights, in some kind of game; and the men 
 
248 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 will often loose the last rag of clothes, which 
 they have about them. But so far from 
 being dejected by such ill fortune, they often 
 appear to be proud of having lost their all ; 
 and will even boastingly say, that they are 
 as naked as a dog, having not a rag with 
 which to cover themselves. Should they, in 
 such circumstances, meet with a friend, who 
 should lend them something to wrap around 
 their bodies, it is highly probable, that they 
 would immediately go and play away the 
 borrowed garment. Or, if the borrower be- 
 longed to another village, he would be likely 
 to run off with it, and the owner would 
 never hear of him afterward; for I never 
 knew a Carrier to be gTateful for a favour be- 
 stowed upon him. At play, they often loose 
 a part of a garment, as the sleeves of a coat, 
 which some of them now purchase from us, 
 a whole, or the half of a leggin, which they 
 will tear off, and deliver to the winner. They 
 have been known to cut off a foot or more 
 of their guns, when lost at play; for, like 
 more gentlemanly gamblers, they consider 
 such debts, as debts of honour. 
 
 The Carriers are not so ingenious as their 
 neighbours, the Nate-ote-tains and At-e-nas. 
 The men, however, make canoes, which are 
 clumsily wrought, of the aspin tree, as well as 
 of the bark of the spruce fir. The former, 
 will carry from half a ton to a ton and a 
 half burthen, while the latter, will carry 
 from one to four grown persons. The women 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 249 
 
 make excellent nets, of the inner bark of the 
 willow tree, and of nettles, which answer 
 better for taking small fish, than any which 
 we obtain from Canada, made of twine or 
 thread. 
 
 The Carriers, in common with the other 
 Indian tribes, before their country was visited 
 by white people, made use of stones, instead 
 of axes, and of bones, for knives; and with 
 these, they constructed wooden dishes, and 
 other vessels of the rind of the birch and 
 pine trees, &c. Some of these vessels were 
 used to cook their victuals in, and many of 
 these people still make use of them ; for they 
 are too poor to purchase brass or copper 
 kettles from us. They have, also, other ves- 
 sels, which are manufactured of the small 
 roots or fibers of the cedar or pine tree, 
 closely laced together, which serve them as 
 buckets to put water in. I have seen one at 
 Fraser's Lake, made of the same materials, 
 that would hold sixty or seventy gallons, 
 which they make use of when a feast is given 
 to all the people of the village. All the ves- 
 sels fabricated of roots, as well as the most 
 of their bows and arrows, they obtain from 
 their neighbours, above mentioned. 
 
 The Carriers are remarkably fond of their 
 wives, and a few of them have three or four ; 
 but polygamy is not general among them. 
 The men do the most of the drudgery about 
 the house, such as cutting and drawing fire 
 wood, and bringing water. In the winter 
 
250 ACCOUXT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 months, they drink but little water; but to 
 quench their thirst, they eat half melted 
 snow, which they generally keep on the top 
 of a stick, stuck into the ground, before the 
 fire. 
 
 As the Carriers are fond of their wives, 
 they are, as naturally might be supposed, 
 yery jealous of them ; but to their daughters, 
 they allow eyery liberty, for the purpose, as 
 they say, of keeping the young men from 
 intercourse with the married women. As the 
 young women may thus bestow their favours 
 on whom, and as often as they please, with- 
 out the least censure from their parents, or 
 reproach to their character, it might nat- 
 urally be expected that they would be, as 
 I am informed they actually are, yery free 
 with their persons. — In the following par- 
 ticular, the Carriers differ from all the other 
 Indian tribes, with whom I haye been ac- 
 quainted. Among other tribes, the father 
 or mother in law, will neyer, excepting when 
 drunk, speak to a son or daughter in law ; 
 but the Carriers make no distinction, in this 
 respect. 
 
 The Carriers reside a part of the year in 
 villages, built at convenient places for taking 
 and drying salmon, as they come up the 
 rivers. These fish they take in abundance, 
 with little labour ; and they constitute their 
 principal food, during the whole year. They 
 are not very palatable when eaten alone; 
 but with vegetables, they are pleasant food. 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 251 
 
 The Natives, however, are too slothful to 
 raise vegetables, and use none, excepting a 
 few which they obtain from us. 
 
 Toward the middle of April, and some- 
 times sooner, they leave their villages, to go 
 and pass about two months at the small 
 lakes, from which, at that season, they take 
 white fish, trout, carp, &c. in considerable 
 numbers. But when these begin to fail, they 
 return to their villages, and subsist on the 
 small fish, which they dried when at the lakes, 
 or on salmon, should they have been so 
 provident as to have kept any until that 
 late season; or they eat herbs, the inner 
 bark or sap of the cypress tree, berries, &c. 
 At this season, few fish of any kind, are to be 
 taken out of the lakes or rivers of New Cale- 
 donia. In this manner the Natives barely 
 subsist, until about the middle of August, 
 when salmon again begin to make their ap- 
 pearance, in all the rivers of any consider- 
 able magnitude ; and they have them at most 
 of their villages in plenty, until the latter end 
 of September, or the beginning of October. 
 For about a month, they come up in crowds ; 
 and the noses of some of them are either 
 worn or rotten off, and the eyes of others 
 have perished in their heads ; and yet, in this 
 maimed condition, they are surprisingly alert, 
 in coming up the rapids. These maimed 
 fishes are generally at the head of large 
 bands, on account of which, the Natives 
 call them Mi-u-ties, or Chiefs. The Indians 
 
252 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 say that they have suffered these disasters; 
 by falling back among the stones, when com- 
 ing up difficult places in the rapids which 
 they pass. 
 
 The Carriers take salmon in the following 
 manner. All the Indians of the village assist 
 in making a dam across the river, in which 
 they occasionally leave places, to insert their 
 baskets or nets of wicker work. These bas- 
 kets are generally from fifteen to eighteen feet 
 in length, and from twelve to fifteen feet in 
 circumference. The end at which the salmon 
 enter, is made with twigs, in the form of the 
 entrance of a wire mouse trap. When four 
 or five hundred salmon have entered this 
 basket, they either take it to the shore to 
 empty out the fish ; or they take them out 
 at a door in the top, and transport them to the 
 shore in their large wooden canoes, which are 
 convenient for this purpose. When the salmon 
 are thrown upon the beach, the women take 
 out their entrails, and hang them by their 
 tails on poles, in the open air. After remain- 
 ing in this situation for a day or two, they 
 take them down and cut them thinner, and 
 then leave them to hang for about a month 
 in the open air, when they will have become 
 entirely dry. They are then put into their 
 store houses, which are built on four posts, 
 about ten feet from the ground, to prevent 
 animals from destroying them; and pro- 
 vided they are preserved dry, they will re- 
 main good for several years. 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 253 
 
 The Carriers take beavers in nets, made 
 of thongs of cariboo skins, or in baskets 
 made of young cypress stadles; and some- 
 times they shoot them with bows and arrows, 
 or guns, or take them in steel traps, which 
 we sell to them, and of which they begin to 
 understand the value. Cats, martins, fishers, 
 foxes, minks, &c. they take in a kind of 
 spring trap, which consists of a large piece 
 of wood, which these animals, by nibbling 
 at the bait, cause to fall upon and crush 
 them. Bears, swans and hares they gener- 
 ally take in snares, and the cat, also, they 
 sometimes take in this manner. They hunt 
 the beaver and bear, more for the sake of 
 their flesh, than to obtain the skins; for 
 it is with the meat of these animals that 
 they make their feasts, in remembrance of 
 their deceased relatives. 
 
 At such festivals, they cut up as many 
 dressed moose and red deer skins as they 
 can well procure, into slips, about eighteen 
 inches long, and twelve inches broad, and 
 distribute them among their friends and 
 relatives. And they firmly believe, that 
 these ceremonies must be performed, before 
 their departed relative can be at rest, in the 
 place whither he has gone, which they think 
 to be the interiour of the earth, where they 
 expect that they shall all at length be 
 happy. 
 
 The Carriers have little that can be denom- 
 inated civil government, in the regulation 
 
254 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 of their concerns. There are some persons 
 among them, who are called Mi-u-ties or 
 Chiefs, and for whom they appear to have 
 a little more respect than for the others; 
 but these chiefs have not much authority or 
 influence over the rest of the community. 
 Any one is dubbed a Mi-u-ty, who is able and 
 willing, occasionally, to provide a feast, for 
 the people of his village. An Indian, how- 
 ever, who has killed another, or been guilty 
 of some other bad action, finds the house or 
 tent of the chief a safe retreat, so long as he 
 is allowed to remain there. But as soon as 
 he leaves it, the Chief can afford the criminal 
 no more protection, than any other person of 
 the village can, unless he lets him have one 
 of his garments. This garment of the Chief, 
 will protect a malefactor from harm, while 
 he wears it ; for no person would attack 
 him, while clothed with this safe guard, 
 sooner than he would attack the chief him- 
 self ; and if he should, the chief would revenge 
 the insult, in the same manner as if it were 
 offered directly to himself. The revenge which 
 the Chief, in this case, would take, would be 
 to destroy the life of the offending person, 
 or that of some of his near relations, or the 
 life of one of the same tribe, if he should 
 happen to be a stranger. 
 
 When two or more persons disagree at 
 play, as is frequently the case, or contend 
 on any other account, the chief, or some 
 respectable and elderly man, will step in 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 255 
 
 between the two wranglers, and settle the 
 dispute, generally without their coming to 
 blows. 
 
 The people of every village have a certain 
 extent of country, which they consider their 
 own, and in which they may hunt and fish; 
 but they may not transcend these bounds, 
 without purchasing the privilege of those 
 who claim the land. Mountains and rivers 
 serve them as boundaries, and they are not 
 often broken over. 
 
 The people of one village do not often visit 
 those of another, as there are generally mis- 
 understandings existing between them, which 
 are occasioned by murders, and at times 
 by the hunting of the people of one village, 
 in a clandestine manner, on the territories 
 of their neighbours. By one cause or another, 
 they are kept in a perpetual broil. They 
 say however, that murders do not occur so 
 frequently among them as they did before 
 they were visited by the white people. 
 
 The Carriers are the most ignorant people 
 among whom I have ever been. They appear 
 to have only a very confused and limited 
 idea of the existence of a Supreme Being, 
 the maker and governour of the world, or 
 of the devil or any evil spirit; and they, 
 therefore, neither worship the former nor fear 
 the latter. But they believe, as it has been 
 already observed, in the immortality of the 
 soul, and think when it leaves its present 
 body, it goes into the bowels of the earth, 
 
256 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 where, they suppose it will be more happy 
 than when an inhabitant of its surface. But 
 they seem to have no idea of future rewards 
 or punishments, in consequence of any thing 
 which they may have done, while resident 
 on earth. And whether the soul will be fur- 
 nished with another body, when it leaves 
 that which it animated on earth, they say 
 they cannot tell, it being, as they add, be- 
 yond their comprehension. They firmly be- 
 lieve, however, that a departed soul can, if it 
 pleases, come back to the earth, in a human 
 shape or body, in order to see his friends, 
 who are still alive. Therefore, as they 
 are about to set fire to the pile of wood, 
 on which a corpse is laid, a relation of the 
 deceased person stands at his feet, and asks 
 him if he will ever come back among them. 
 Then the priest or magician, with a grave 
 countenance, stands at the head of the corpse, 
 and looks through both his hands on its 
 naked breast, and then raises them toward 
 heaven, and blows through them, as they 
 say, the soul of the deceased, that it may 
 go and find, and enter into a relative. Or, 
 if any relative is present, the priest will hold 
 his hands on the head of this person, and 
 blow through them, that the spirit of the 
 deceased may enter into him or her; and 
 then, as they affirm, the first child which 
 this person has, will possess the soul of the 
 deceased person. 
 
 When the Carriers are severely sick, they 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 257 
 
 often think that they shall not recover, un- 
 less they divulge to a priest or magician, 
 every crime which they may have committed, 
 which has hitherto been kept secret. In such 
 a case, they will make a full confession, and 
 then they expect that their lives will be 
 spared, for a time longer. But should they 
 keep back a single crime, they as fully believe 
 that they shall suffer almost instant death. 
 The crimes which they most frequently con- 
 fess, discover something of their moral char- 
 acter, and therefore deserve to be mentioned. 
 A man will often acknowledge that he has 
 had a criminal and incestuous connexion with 
 his own daughter or sister, or a criminal inter- 
 course with a bitch ! and a woman will con- 
 fess, that she has had the same infamous con- 
 nexion with her own relations, or with a dog ! 
 Murder is not considered by the Carriers 
 as a crime of great magnitude; and, there- 
 fore, it makes no part of their acknowledg- 
 ments, in their confessions to the priests or 
 Uagicians. If a murder be committed on a 
 person belonging to a tribe with whom they 
 are at enmity, they regard it as a brave and 
 noble action. Should one Indian kill another, 
 belonging to the same village with himself, 
 the murderer is considered as a person void 
 of sense; and he must quit his village and 
 remain away, until he can pay the relations 
 of the deceased for the murder; and even 
 after this has been done, it often occasions 
 quarrels, between the parties. 
 17 
 
258 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 The Carriers are so very credulous, and 
 have so exalted an opinion of us, that they 
 firmly believe, though I have often assured 
 them of the contrary, that any of the 
 Traders or Chiefs, as they call us, can, at 
 pleasure, make it fair or foul weather. And 
 even yet when they are preparing to set out 
 on an excursion, they will come and offer to 
 pay us, provided we will make or allow it 
 to be fair weather, during their absence 
 from their homes. They often inquire of us 
 whether salmon, that year, will be in plenty 
 in their rivers. They also think, that by 
 merely looking into our books, we can cause 
 a sick person to recover, let the distance 
 which he may be from us be ever so great. 
 In short, they look upon those who can 
 read and write, as a kind of supernatural 
 beings, who know all that is past, and who 
 can see into futurity. 
 
 For a considerable time after we had been 
 among them, they were fully of the opinion, 
 that the white people had neither fathers nor 
 mothers ; but came into the world in a super- 
 natural way, or were placed on the earth 
 by the sun or moon. 
 
 As a farther specimen of their limited 
 conceptions, they now firmly believe that a 
 watch is the heart of the sun, because it is 
 ever in motion, as they say, like that great 
 body of light. They add further, that unless 
 a watch and the sun were nearly related, it 
 would be impossible for the watch, consider- 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 259 
 
 ing the distance which there is between them, 
 to point out so precisely the minute when 
 the sun is to make its appearance and to 
 leave us. In short, they say that the one 
 must know perfectly well what the other is 
 about, and that there must be the same con- 
 nexion between them, as between the mem- 
 bers of the human body. 
 
 The Carriers give the following account 
 of a tradition, which they believe, respecting 
 the formation of the earth, and the general 
 destruction of mankind, in an early period 
 of the world. Water at first overspread the 
 face of the world, which is a plain surface. 
 At the top of the water, a muskrat was 
 swimming about, in different directions. At 
 length he concluded to dive to the bottom, to 
 see what he could find, on which to subsist ; 
 but he found nothing but mud, a little of 
 which he brought in his mouth, and placed 
 it on the surface of the water, where it re- 
 mained. He then went for more mud, and 
 placed it with that already brought up ; and 
 thus he continued his operations, until he 
 had formed a considerable hillock. This 
 land increased by degrees, until it overspread 
 a large part of the world, which assumed 
 at length its present form. The earth, in 
 process of time, became peopled in every 
 part, and remained in this condition for 
 many years. Afterwards a fire run over it all, 
 and destroyed every human being, excepting 
 one man and one woman. They saved them- 
 
260 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 selves by going into a deep cave, in a large 
 mountain, where they remained for several 
 days, until the fire was extinguished. They 
 then came forth from their hiding place ; and 
 from these two persons, the whole earth has 
 been peopled. 
 
 Besides \he feasts, made for their dead, 
 which have been described in my Journal, 
 the Carriers give others, merely to enter- 
 tain their guests, who are frequently all the 
 people of a village, as well as a few who 
 belong to a neighbouring village. The follow- 
 ing ceremonies attend such festivals. The 
 person who makes the entertainment, who is 
 always a Chief, boils or roasts several whole 
 beavers ; and as soon as his guests are seated 
 around a fire, which is in the centre of his 
 house, he takes up a whole beaver, and with 
 a raised voice, relates how and where he 
 killed it, that all present may know that it 
 came from his own land. After that neces- 
 sary explanation is over, he steps forward, 
 and presents the tail end to the most re- 
 spectable person of the house, and stands 
 holding the animal with both hands until 
 this person has eaten what he chooses. The 
 chief then passes on with his beaver to the 
 second person, who eats as the first had 
 done; and then to a third; and so on, until 
 he has presented it to the whole circle. Should 
 any part now remain, it is laid down near 
 the centre of the house; and another whole 
 beaver is taken up, which is served round 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 261 
 
 in the same manner as the first. And thus 
 the chief continues to do, until his guests 
 have tasted of every beaver, which he had 
 prepared for the feast. The remaining frag- 
 ments of the beavers, are now cut up into 
 smaller pieces, and distributed among the 
 women and children, or put into dishes, 
 which the men have before them, and which 
 they always bring with them, when they 
 attend upon a feast. The women then come 
 in with large dishes full of berries, and each 
 puts a ladle full into every dish of the men. 
 When they have eaten what they choose of 
 the berries, ( for the Indians never urge their 
 guests to eat more than they please) both 
 men and women join, in singing several 
 songs. The airs of many of these songs, 
 which have been composed and set to musick, 
 by their poets, expressly for the occasion, 
 greatly resemble those which I have heard 
 sung, in Roman Catholic churches. After 
 singing is concluded, each guest rises, with 
 his dish and whatever it contains, and returns 
 to his own dwelling, and thus the festival 
 ends. At these feasts, there are frequently 
 Indians, who will drink at least a quart of 
 melted bear's oil, merely to show how much 
 they can drink. 
 
 At some of their festivals, the men and 
 women join in a dance. Their musick on 
 these occasions, consists of the singing of 
 one person or more, accompanied by the 
 shaking of the she-she-qui, which is, ordinari- 
 
262 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 ly, a covered dish, with a handle ; but some- 
 times it is curiously made in the form of a 
 bird, and within it, are either gravel stones 
 or shot. Others beat on a drum, with but 
 one head; and these are all the musical in- 
 struments, if they can with propriety be so 
 denominated, which I have ever seen among 
 them. When they dance, they paint their 
 faces, and put swan's down on their heads, 
 and while they are dancing, others are al- 
 most continually blowing more through both 
 their hands, on the dancers. They have 
 not many different kinds of dancing; but 
 they have a great variety of songs, the airs 
 of which are pleasant to the ear when heard 
 at some distance from the singers, who gener- 
 ally have strong voices. All Indians have 
 accurate ears ; and, therefore, they keep exact 
 time when they dance or sing. 
 
 The Carriers are almost entirely ignorant 
 of medicine, not having any knowledge of 
 the virtue which is found in roots and herbs, 
 when administered to the sick. ^\Tien one of 
 them is sick, they call in the priest or doctor, 
 for the same person discharges the functions 
 of both; and he is joined by several other 
 persons in singing a very melancholy air, 
 over the sick person, which they think serves 
 greatly to mitigate his pain, and often re- 
 stores him to perfect health. Before the 
 doctor will afford his assistance, in doing 
 which he makes many jestures, and goes 
 through much ceremony, he must receive a/ 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 263 
 
 present. But should his patient die under 
 his care, he must restore to the relations of 
 the deceased, the present which he had re- 
 ceived. The Carriers are the only Indians 
 with whom I have been acquainted, who 
 make no use of roots and herbs, and the 
 bark of certain trees, with the sick. They, 
 however, place great confidence in our medi- 
 cines. 
 
 During the winter months many of the 
 Carriers make their dwellings in the earth, 
 in the following manner. They dig a hole 
 in the ground to the depth of about two 
 feet, from the opposite sides of which, they 
 erect two considerable sticks, to support 
 a ridge-pole. They then lay poles from the 
 margin of the hole to the ridge-pol.e, until 
 they have completely enclosed the dwelling, 
 excepting a hole which is left near the top, 
 which serves the double purpose of a door 
 by which they enter, and leave the hut, upon 
 an upright post, in which, notches are cut; 
 and an opening for the smoke to pass off. 
 The poles are made tight, by stopping the 
 interstices with hay, or by covering them 
 with bark; and dirt is then thrown over 
 them, to a considerable thickness. These 
 huts are far from being healthy; but they 
 are commodious for people who are clad as 
 poorly, as are most of the Carriers. 
 
 The Indians on the west side of the Rocky 
 Mountain, erect buildings, in which they 
 deposit the ashes and bones of their dead. 
 
264 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 The side posts of these structures, are about 
 six feet high; a roof, covered with bark, is 
 erected upon these posts, in the form of the 
 roofs of houses in the civiHzed part of the 
 world ; and around their sides, are broad 
 boards, made by sphtting trees, which they 
 hew, and then smooth over with a crooked 
 knife. On these boards, which are about an 
 inch thick, they paint images to represent 
 the sun, moon, stars and different kinds of 
 animals. Within these buildings, the remains 
 of the dead are contained in boxes, of dif- 
 ferent dimensions, which in some instances, 
 stand on the top of one upright post, and 
 in other cases, are supported by four. The 
 paints which they use, in describing the 
 figures on these buildings, consist of black 
 and red stones, which they grind fine, and 
 of a yellow and a red earth. These sub- 
 stances, they mix with glue, which they 
 obtain by boiling the feet of the buffaloe, 
 or from the inside of sturgeon, where these 
 fish are in plenty. They put on their paints 
 with a brush, made of the hair which they 
 take from the leg of the moose. 
 
 Among the Carriers, there are some con- 
 jurors, who whenever they please, will vomit 
 blood; or swallow a small toad, alive. By 
 doing the latter, however, they are made 
 : sick, for three or four days; and yet they 
 are ever ready to do it, for a mere trifling 
 recompense. 
 
 Among the Indians who inhabit New 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 265 
 
 Caledonia, the Sicannies deserve to be men- 
 tioned. Thej are a small part of a tribe 
 who, but a few years since, came from the 
 east side of the Bockj Mountain. Th^ej now 
 bring the produce of their hunts to McLeod's 
 Lake. The winter months, however, a greater 
 part of them pass among their relations, 
 on the east side of the Mountain, where 
 thej subsist on buffaloe, moose and red 
 deer. Notwithstanding they are tolerable 
 hunters, they would not be able to kill a 
 sufficiency of beavers to serve themselves 
 and families, during the winter, where the 
 snow is so deep, as it generally is in New 
 Caledonia. 
 
 The people who are now called Si-can-nies, 
 I suspect, at no distant period, belonged 
 to the tribe, called Beaver Indians, who 
 inhabit the lower part of Peace Kiver; for 
 they differ but little from them in dialect, 
 manners, customs, &c. Some misunderstand- 
 ing between the Sicannies and the rest of the 
 tribe to which they formerly belonged, prob- 
 ably drove them from place to place, up 
 Peace Eiver, until they were, at length, 
 obliged to cross the Kocky Mountain. The 
 Sicannies, are more brave, and better armed 
 than the Carriers, who have, as yet, but 
 few fire arms; and it is probable that the 
 former will make encroachments upon the 
 latter. The Sicannies, however, are a wretch- 
 ed people; for they suffer greatly for the 
 want of food, during nearly one fourth part 
 
266 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 of the year, when they barely support life, 
 by means of a few unpalatable roots. Yet 
 they are remarkably fond of the country, 
 where they now are; and frequently inter- 
 marry with the Carriers, and pass a part 
 of their time with them, at their villages. 
 They have, also, adopted many of the cus- 
 toms of the Carriers, one of which is, to 
 burn their dead ; whereas, while they resided 
 on the other side of the Mountain, they 
 were accustomed to bury them in the earth. 
 The Sicannies are not an ingenious people; 
 and I know of nothing which they manu- 
 facture, excepting a few ill wrought bows 
 and arrows, wooden dishes, &c. 
 
 There is a tribe of Indians not far from 
 the Columbia River, who are called Flat- 
 Heads. By fixing boards upon the heads 
 of their children, they compress them in such 
 a manner as to cause them to assume the 
 form of a wedge. Another tribe in New 
 Caledonia, denominated Nate-ote-tains, pierce 
 a hole through the under lips of their daugh- 
 ters, into which they insert a piece of wood, 
 in the shape of the wheel of a pulley; and 
 as the girls grow up, this wheel is enlarged, 
 so that a woman of thirty years of age, 
 will have one nearly as large as a dollar. 
 This they consider, adds much to their beauty ; 
 but these wheels are certainly very incon- 
 venient, and to us, they appear very un- 
 couth and disagreeable. 
 
A GENERAL 
 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS 
 
 ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAIN. 
 
ACCOUNT, &c. 
 
 I have been acquainted with fifteen dif- 
 ferent tribes of Indians, which are the Sau- 
 teux, Crees, Assiniboins, Rapid Indians, 
 Black feet Indians, Blood Indians, Sursees, 
 Cautonies, Muskagoes, Chipeways, Beaver In- 
 dians, Sicannies, Ta-cullies, Atenas and Nate- 
 ote-tains. The parts of the country, which 
 they severally inhabit, have already been 
 noticed, in my Journal. 
 
 The tribes that are the most enlightened, 
 and that have advanced the farthest toward 
 a state of civilization, are the Sauteux or 
 Chipeways, the Muskagoes and the Crees, 
 or Knisteneux, as they have been sometimes 
 denominated. These tribes have a greater 
 knowledge than the other Indians, of the 
 medicinal qualities of the bark of trees, and 
 of herbs, roots, &c. and their medical skill, 
 enables them heavily to tax the other tribes. 
 Indeed, their medicines, with their skill in 
 regard to their application, form considerable 
 articles of commerce with their neighbours. 
 Sometimes, for a handsome compensation, 
 they will instruct a person where to procure 
 
270 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 ingredients, and how to prepare tliem as 
 medicines, to be used in particular cases. 
 It is very probable, however, that the In- 
 dian doctors, like some apothecaries in the 
 civilized world, sell some medicines, of little 
 or no value. It is also well known to those 
 acquainted with the Indians, that their 
 physicians frequently effect cures with their 
 roots, herbs, &c. in cases, which would baffle 
 the skill and the drugs, of a scientifick phy- 
 sician. 
 
 The white people have been among the 
 above mentioned tribes, for about one hun- 
 dred and fifty years. To this circumstance 
 it is probably to be attributed, that the 
 knowledge of these Indians is more extensive, 
 than that of the other tribes. But I very 
 much question whether they have improved 
 in their character or condition, by their 
 acquaintance with civilized people. In their 
 savage state, they were contented with the 
 mere necessaries of life, which they could 
 procure, with considerable ease; but now 
 they have many artificial wants, created by 
 the luxuries which we have introduced among 
 them; and as they find it difficult to obtain 
 these luxuries, they have become, to a degTee, 
 discontented with their condition, and prac- 
 tise fraud in their dealings. A half civilized 
 Indian is more savage, than one in his orig- 
 inal state. The latter has some sense of 
 honour, while the former has none. I have 
 always experienced the greatest hospitality 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 271 
 
 and kindness among those Indians, who 
 have had the least intercourse with white 
 people. They readily discover and adopt 
 our evil practices ; but they are not as quick 
 to discern, and as ready to follow the few 
 good examples, which we set before them. 
 
 The Indians in general, are subject to 
 few diseases. The venereal complaint is 
 common to all the tribes of the north ; many 
 persons among them, die of a consumption; 
 fevers, also, frequently attack them; and 
 they are likewise troubled with pains in their 
 heads, breasts and joints. Many of them, 
 and especially the women, are subject to 
 fits. For a relief, in nearly all of their dis- 
 eases, they resort to their grand remedy, 
 sweating. 
 
 There is no material difference in the size, 
 features and complexion of the different 
 tribes, with whom I have been acquainted. 
 The Sauteux, Crees and Assiniboins, to- 
 gether with the other Indians who inhabit 
 the prairies, are, however, the fairest and 
 most cleanly. The Sauteux women differ 
 from all others, by turning their toes very 
 much inwards, in walking. The Assiniboins, 
 of both sexes, are the best made, and walk 
 the most erect, of any tribe that I have 
 ever seen. Fools and disfigured persons, are 
 seldom to be met with among the Indians; 
 the reason of which, I believe to be, that 
 their mothers put them to death as soon 
 as they discover their unhappy condition. 
 
272 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 All Indian children, when young, are laced 
 in a kind of bag. This bag is made of a 
 piece of leather, about two feet square, by 
 drawing a string, inserted in the lower end, 
 and lacing the two sides together. Some 
 moss is placed in the bottom of this bag; 
 the child is then laid into it, and moss is 
 inserted between its legs. The bag is then 
 laced the fore side of the child as high as 
 its neck. This bag is laid upon a board, to 
 which it is fastened by means of a strip of 
 leather, passing several times round both 
 the board and the bag. At the top of this 
 board, a bow passes round from one side 
 to the other, perpendicular to its surface, 
 on which the Indians fasten small beUs, 
 which they obtain from us, or the claws 
 of animals, by way of ornament, and which 
 rattle, when the child is carried by its mother^ 
 suspended from her shoulders, by means of a 
 cord or belt fastened to the board. From 
 two points in this bow, equally distant from 
 the board, two strips of leather, worked 
 with porcupine quills, are suspended, at the 
 ends of which, tassels, composed of moose 
 hair, are fixed. This bag is commonly orna- 
 mented, in different parts, with porcupine 
 quills. The women who are particular in 
 keeping their children clean, shift the moss 
 which is put into these bags, several times 
 in a day; but others do it not more than 
 twice. They often fix conductors so that 
 their male children never wet the moss. The 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 273 
 
 Carrier women will nurse their children, 
 when thus suspended at their backs, either 
 by throwing their breasts over their shoul- 
 ders or under their arms. Their breasts are 
 larger and longer than those of the other 
 tribes ; but I am unable to assign any cause 
 for this peculiarity. 
 
 The dress of the Indians is simple and 
 convenient. They wear tight leggins, each 
 of which is composed of a single piece of 
 leather or cloth, sewed up with a single 
 seam, about an inch from the edge, which 
 projects upon the outside. These garments 
 reach from the ancle nearly to the hip. They 
 have a strip of cloth or leather, called assi- 
 an, about a foot wide, and five feet long, 
 which passes between the legs, and over a 
 thong tied round the waist, so that the 
 ends hang down, behind and before. The 
 body is covered with a shirt, reaching down 
 to the thighs, which is belted with a broad 
 piece of parchment, fastened together behind. 
 They wear a cap upon the head, composed 
 of a single piece of fur sewed up, or of the 
 skin of a small animal of a suitable size, 
 which is cut off at both ends, and sewed up 
 at the top; and at some times it is only 
 cut off at the end towards the head, while 
 the tail is left at the top, to hang down 
 behind, by way of ornament. They have, 
 also, at the proper season, the tail of a 
 buff aloe, fastened to one of their wrists, 
 
 which they use in keeping off flies, A sort 
 i8 
 
274 ACCOUNT OF TBGE INDIANS. 
 
 of robe or blanket is occasionally worn over 
 the rest of their dress. They also wear shoes 
 and mittens. The articles of their clothing 
 by day, constitute their covering when they 
 lie down at night. The materials of which 
 their clothing is composed vary with the 
 season, consisting of dressed moose skins, 
 beaver prepared with the fur, or European 
 woollens. The leather, they frequently paint 
 or work with porcupine quills, with no small 
 degree of taste. The skirts of their shirts, 
 and the seams of their leggins, are often 
 ornamented with fringe and' tassels, com- 
 posed of the hair of the moose, which is 
 naturally white, but which they die yellow 
 and red. Their shoes and mittens have, 
 likewise, an appropriate decoration. At a 
 feast or dance, they wear the feathers of the 
 swan, eagle and other birds; and they oc- 
 casionally wind a string of the teeth, horns 
 and claws of different animals, around their 
 head or neck. They all rub greese upon their 
 hair, which gives it a smooth and glossy 
 appearance. 
 
 It belongs to the women to make up the 
 articles of clothing. In sewing leather, in- 
 stead of thread, they make use of the sinews 
 of animals. When this substance is some 
 moistened, they separate a fibre, and by 
 running their finger along between it and 
 the main sinew, they part it to a sufficient 
 length. The sinews of the cariboo may be 
 made as fine and even, as fine thread. These 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 275 
 
 fibres, when thus separated, they twist at 
 one end between their fingers, which gives 
 them a sharp stiff point, when they are dry. 
 They use awls, which they obtain from us, 
 or an instrument of bone which they con- 
 struct themselves, in sewing. The men paint 
 their faces and ornament their persons, with 
 no less care than the women; and the mar- 
 ried women, while they neglect not their 
 own persons, are still more attentive to the 
 appearance of their husbands. The young 
 women often make some ornamental articles, 
 particularly garters, neatly worked with 
 porcupine quills and present them to their 
 favourites; and the standing of a young 
 male Carrier among the young females may 
 often be determined by the number of garters 
 which he wears. 
 
 The female dress is made of the same 
 materials as that of the men, but differently 
 constructed and arranged. Their shoes are 
 without ornament ; their leggins are gartered 
 beneath the knee ; the shirt or coat, which 
 is so long as to reach the middle of the leg, 
 is tied at the neck, is fringed around the 
 bottom, and fancifully painted, as high as 
 the knee. Being very loose, it is girded 
 around the waist with a stiff belt, ornamented 
 with tassels, and fastened behind. The 
 arms are covered as low as the wrists with 
 sleeves, which are not connected with the 
 body garment. These sleeves are sewed up, 
 as far as the bend of the arm, having the 
 
276 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 seam the under side; and extend to the 
 shoulders, becoming broader toward the 
 upper end, so that the corners hang down 
 as low as tlie waist. They are connected 
 together, and kept on, by a cord, extending 
 from one to the other, across the shoulders. 
 The cap, when they have one, consists of a 
 piece of cloth, about two feet square, doubled, 
 and sewed up at one end, which forms an 
 enclosure for the head; and it is tied under 
 the chin. The bottom of it falls down the 
 back, like a cape, and in the centre, is tied 
 to the belt. This cap is fancifully garnished 
 with ribbon, beads or porcupine quills. The 
 upper garment, is a robe or garment, similar 
 to that worn by the men. Their hair is 
 parted on the top of the head, and tied 
 behind; or, at some times, it is fastened 
 in large knots over the ears, and covered 
 with beads of various colours. They prefer 
 European clothes, when they can obtain 
 them, to the skins, furnished by their own 
 country. For ornaments they use bracelets, 
 composed of brass, bone or horn ; and rings, 
 and similar trinkets. Some of the women 
 tattoo a line, which is sometimes double, 
 from the middle of the under lip, to the 
 center of the chin; and two other lines, ex- 
 tending from the corners of the mouth, some- 
 what diverging from the other line, down 
 the sides of the chin. 
 
 The greater part of the Indians, who make 
 use of European cloths for their dress, frfe- 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 277 
 
 quentlj cleanse them, by washing them in 
 cold water, without soap. They do not 
 understand the art of making soap; and if 
 they did, the process is so laborious, that 
 they would readily forego the use of this 
 article, which they consider of very little 
 value. When their clothing consists of leather, 
 they occasionally cleanse it, by rubbing it 
 over with a ball of white earth. This earth, 
 which is the same which we use for white 
 washing, they moisten, and mould into balls, 
 and thus preserve it for use. 
 
 The Indians who subsist principally on 
 fish, and who kill but few large animals, 
 cover their habitations with some kind of 
 bark, or with mats made of rushes. But 
 those who subsist on the buffaloe, moose 
 and red deer, dress their skins, and cover 
 their tents with them, as described in my 
 Journal. When they are in their tents they 
 sit or lie down on buffaloe or bear skins, 
 which constitute, also, their beds ; and when 
 in bed, they cover themselves with a buffaloe 
 skin, dressed with the hair on, or with a 
 blanket. But many of the Carriers, have 
 nothing to lie on, excepting the branches 
 of the spruce fir tree, with little or nothing 
 with which to cover themselves; and their 
 huts constitute but a poor shelter. To 
 keep themselves from freezing, in cold winter 
 nights, therefore, they are under the necessity 
 of keeping up a constant fire, to which they 
 are compelled to turn their sides, alternately ; 
 
278 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 and they are, at such times, able to procure 
 but little sleep. Indeed, almost any other 
 people, in the same condition, would freeze 
 to death. But as they hare always been 
 accustomed to such a mode of living, they 
 seem not at all aware of the misery of their 
 condition. 
 
 The Sauteux, Muscagoes, many of the 
 Chipewyans and some of the Crees, in short 
 all the Indians who live about large lakes, 
 subsist principally on fish, which they take 
 with hooks and lines, or in nets. Their 
 hooks they frequently obtain from us; and 
 when this is impracticable, they make them, 
 by inserting a piece of bone obliquely into 
 a piece of wood, and reducing the upper 
 end of the bone to a point. Their lines are 
 either single thongs of leather, tied together, 
 or they are braided of the bark of the willow. 
 The Assiniboins, Rapid Indians, Black feet 
 Indians and those Crees who remain in the 
 strong thick woods, or on the large plains, 
 live upon the flesh of the buffaloe, moose, 
 red deer, antelope, bear, &c. which they 
 either boil or roast. Those of them who 
 can obtain brass or copper or tin kettles 
 from us, use them for boiling their food ; 
 and hang them over the fire. Those who 
 cannot obtain such kettles, use those which 
 are made of bark. Although water might 
 be made to boil in these bark kettles over 
 the fire, yet they would not be durable; 
 and therefore, this operation is more com- 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 279 
 
 monly performed, by throwing into them, 
 heated stones. Those Indians, however, 
 who have only bark kettles, generally roast 
 their meat. This they do, by fixing one end 
 of a stick, that is sharpened at both ends, 
 into the ground, at a little distance from 
 the fire, with its top, on which the meat 
 is fixed, inclining towards the fire. On this 
 stick, the meat is occasionally turned, when 
 one part becomes sufficiently roasted. 
 
 The Indians, in general, like to have their 
 food, whether boiled or roasted, thoroughly 
 done; but those who inhabit the plains, 
 frequently make their meals without the 
 aid of fire, of particular parts of the entrails 
 of the buffaloe, which I have, also, eaten 
 raw, and have found to be very palatable. 
 When there is no water to be found, they 
 at times kill a buffaloe, and drink his blood, 
 or the water which they find in his paunch. 
 The paunch of a male buffaloe, when well 
 cooked, is very delicious food. The Natives 
 scarcely ever wash it ; but boil it with much 
 of its dung, adhering to it ; and even then, 
 the broth has an excellent taste, to those 
 who can forget, or from habit pay no regard 
 to the filth, which settles, to the thickness 
 of two fingers, at the bottom of the kettle. 
 Many consider a broth, made by means of 
 the dung of the cariboo and the hare to be 
 a dainty dish. 
 
 The Chipewyans can never patiently see a 
 fish without gouging out its eyes, and eating 
 
280 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 them in a raw state; and they say, that 
 they are delicious. They, also, often make 
 their meals upon raw fish or meat, that is 
 frozen; and appear to relish it fully as well, 
 as when cooked. — The Carriers, when they 
 take fish that have roes in them, squeeze 
 them, with their thumb and finger, through 
 their natural outlet, into their mouths, 
 and swallow them down, with avidity. They 
 also bury in the earth large boxes, filled 
 with the roes of salmon, where they are 
 suffered to remain, until they are a little 
 putrified, when they take them out, and 
 eat them, either cooked or raw; and they 
 appear to relish them well, though they 
 fill the air with a terrible stench, for a con- 
 siderable distance round. A person who eats 
 this food, and rubs salmon oil on his hands, 
 can be smelt in warm weather, to the dis- 
 tance of nearly a quarter of a mile. 
 
 The natives in a part of the country 
 called Nipigon, as well as in some other 
 parts of the country, are frequently obliged, 
 by necessity, to subsist on a kind of moss, 
 which they find adhering to the rocks, and 
 which they denominate As-se-ne Wa-quon-uck, 
 that is, eggs of the rock. This moss when 
 boiled vrith. pimican, &c. dissolves into a 
 glutinous substance, and is very palatable; 
 but when cooked in water only, it is far 
 otherwise, as it then has an unpleasant, 
 bitter taste. There is some nourishment 
 in it ; and it has saved the life of many of 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 281 
 
 the Indians, as well as of some of our voy- 
 agers. 
 
 On the Columbia River, there is a people 
 who subsist, during the greater part of the 
 summer, on nothing but roots, and a kind 
 of bread, if it may be so called, made of the 
 mossy stuff, which grows on the spruce fir 
 tree, and which resembles the cobwebs, spun 
 by spiders. This substance contains a little 
 nourishment. They gather it from the trees, 
 and lay it in a heap, on which they sprinkle 
 a little water, and then leave it, for some 
 time, to ferment. After that, they roll it 
 up into balls, as large as a man's head, 
 and bake them in ovens, well heated, which 
 are constructed in the earth. After having 
 been baked about an hour, they are taken 
 out for use. This substance is not very 
 palatable ; and it contains but little nourish- 
 ment. It will, however, barely support life, 
 for a considerable time. 
 
 The Indians frequently eat the flesh of 
 the dog; and our Canadian voyagers are 
 as fond of it, as of any other meat. I have 
 frequently eaten of them myself; and have 
 found them as palatable as a young pig, 
 and much of the same flavour. These dogs 
 are small ; and in shape, very much resemble 
 the wolf. The large dogs are of a different 
 breed, and their flesh always has a rank 
 taste; but this is never the case with the 
 small kind. 
 
 Perhaps I cannot more properly, than 
 
282 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 in this connexion, state, that all the Indians, 
 when thej look in each other's heads, and 
 find li^e, of which they have a plenty, both 
 there ahd on their bodies, crush them be- 
 tween their teeth, and frequentlj^ swallow 
 them. The reason which they give for this 
 nauseous custom is, that, as the lice have 
 first bitten them, they are only retaliating 
 the injury upon them. 
 
 As the Indians use no salt in the pres- 
 ervation of their meat, the lean part is 
 cut into thin slices, and hung up in their 
 tents, and dried in the smoke, and the fat 
 is melted down; and in this situation, it 
 will keep for years. They make marrow 
 fat, by cutting the joints of the bones, which 
 they boil for a considerable time, and then 
 skim off the top, which is excellent to eat 
 with their dried meat. They find a root in 
 the plains, that is nearly a foot long, and 
 two or three inches in circumference, which 
 is shaped like a carrot, and tastes like a 
 turnip, which they pound fine, and then 
 dry it in the sun. This, when boiled in fat 
 broth, is one of their most dainty dishes, 
 at their feasts. The ordinary drink of the 
 Indians is the broth of flesh or fish, or only 
 water. 
 
 The Indians on the east side of the Rocky 
 Mountain, pound choke cherries fine, and 
 dry them in the sun, which are palatable, 
 either eaten alone, or boiled in broth. They 
 have also a small berry, about the size of 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 283 
 
 a common currant, shaped like an egg, which 
 I have called, in my Journal, shad berries, 
 as I have heard them so denominated in New 
 England, which they dry in the sun, and 
 either boil them in broth, or mix them' with 
 pounded meat and fat, in making pimican. 
 But the Carriers prepare these berries in a 
 different manner, in order to preserve them. 
 They make a kind of tub, which will con- 
 tain twenty or thirty gallons, of the bark 
 of the spruce fir tree. Into the bottom of 
 this tub they put about a peck of these 
 berries, and upon the top of them stones, 
 that are nearly red hot; they then put an- 
 other layer of berries, and upon these, a 
 layer of stones, and so on until the tub is 
 full. They then cover it up, and let it re- 
 main in that situation for about five or 
 six hours, when they will have become per- 
 fectly cooked. They are then taken out, 
 and crushed between the hands, and spread 
 on splinters of wood, tied together for the 
 purpose, over a slow fire; and, while they 
 are drying, the juice which ran out while 
 they were cooking in the tub, is rubbed 
 over them. After two or three days drying, 
 they will be in a condition to be kept for 
 several years. They are very palatable, 
 especially when a few whortleberries are 
 mixed with them. The above described 
 method of cooking berries, is far better than 
 doing them in brass or copper kettles, as I 
 have proved by repeated experiment. 
 
284 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 The Carriers cut off the heads of salmon, 
 and throw them into the lake, where they 
 permit them to remain a month, or at least 
 until they become putrified. They then take 
 them out, and put them into a trough, made 
 of bark, filled with water. Into this trough 
 they put a sufficiency of heated stones, to 
 make the water boil for a time, which will 
 cause the oil to come out of the heads of 
 the salmon, and rise to the top of the water. 
 This they skim off, and put into bottles 
 made of salmon skins; and they eat it with 
 their berries. Its smell however is very dis- 
 agreeable; and no people would think of 
 eating it excepting the Carriers. 
 
 The Indians are not regular in their meals ; 
 and they will eat a little, half a dozen times 
 in a day, if they have food at hand. But 
 they are not great eaters; and they often 
 subsist for a great length of time, upon a 
 very little food. When they choose, how- 
 ever, and in a particular manner, sometimes 
 at feasts, they will gorge down an incredible 
 quantity. They do not drink largely, ex- 
 cepting the Carriers, who live upon dry fish. 
 They will sometimes swallow, at one draught, 
 three pints, or two quarts. When they can 
 procure food that is palatable, they will 
 eat in the same proportion. No favour 
 which can be bestowed upon them is so grate- 
 fully received, as the means of making a 
 good meal. 
 
 From the month of June, until the latter 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 285 
 
 end of September, all animals have but little 
 fur ; and therefore, at this season, the Indians 
 do not hunt them much. The greater part 
 of the Indians, on the east side of the Eocky 
 Mountain, now take the beaver in steel traps, 
 which we sell them; frequently they shoot 
 them, with fire arms; and sometimes they 
 make holes through their lodges or huts, 
 and then spear them. Otters they take in 
 the same manner as beavers. The lynx or 
 cat, they take in snares. Foxes, fishers, 
 martins, minks, &c. they take in a spring 
 trap. — The large animals are hunted chiefly 
 for their flesh; and are therefore killed, 
 principally when they are the fattest, which 
 most of them are in the fall, and some of 
 them in the winter. Buffaloes, moose, red 
 deers, bears, &c. are generally killed with fire 
 arms. The Indians, however, in the plains, 
 have other methods of killing the buffaloe. 
 
 Sometimes the young men mount their 
 horses, and pursue them and bring them 
 down with their bows and arrows, which 
 they find more convenient for this purpose 
 than fire arms, as they can more easily 
 take an arrow from the quiver, than load 
 a musket, in such a situation. The following, 
 is another method of taking the buffaloe. 
 The Natives look out for a small grove of 
 trees, surrounded by a plain. In this grove 
 they make a yard, by falling small trees, 
 and interweaving them with brush ; and they 
 leave an opening into it about twenty feet 
 
286 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 broad. Tliey select, for this purpose, a rising 
 piece of ground, that the yard may not be 
 seen at a distance. From each side of this 
 opening, they fix two ranges of stakes, at 
 about an angle of ninety degTees from each 
 other, extending about two miles into the 
 plains. These stakes rise about four feet 
 above the gTOund, and are about forty feet 
 apart. On the top of each stake, they put 
 buff aloe dung, or tie a wisp of hay. After 
 this preparation, when a herd of buffaloes is 
 seen at no gTeat distance off, thirty or forty 
 or more young men mount their racers, 
 which are weU trained to this business, and 
 surround them; and httle difficulty is found 
 in bringing them, within the range of the 
 stakes. Indians are stationed by the side 
 of some of these stakes, to keep them in 
 motion, so that the buffaloes suppose them 
 all to be human beings. The horsemen press 
 forward by the sides of the herd and behind 
 them, until, at length, with their tong-ues 
 lolling from their mouths, they are brought 
 to the entrance of the yard; and through 
 it they rush without perceiving their danger, 
 until they are shut in, to the number, often- 
 times, of two or three hundred. VThen they 
 find themselves enclosed, the Indians say, 
 and I have frequently seen myself, that they 
 begin to walk around the outside of the 
 yard, in the direction of the apparent rev- 
 olution of the sun, from east to west. Be- 
 fore any of them are killed, the Indians go 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 287 
 
 into the tent of the chief to smoke, which 
 they denominate making the buffaloe smoke. 
 They then go out to the yard, and kill the 
 buffaloes with bows and arrows; and there 
 are Indians, who will send an arrow, entirely 
 through one buffaloe, and kill, at the same 
 time, a second. When the buffaloes are all 
 killed and cut up, the tongues of all of them 
 are taken to the tent of the chief; and with 
 a part of them he makes a feast, and the 
 remainder he allows his neighbours to keep. 
 The meat and skins are then distributed 
 among the people of the whole camp: ?j2'^ 
 whether equally or not, no one wllrcOi^i^plain. 
 Should any be displeased with their share, 
 they will decamp, and go and join another 
 party. 
 
 The Natives generally cut up the body of 
 an animal into eleven pieces, to prepare it 
 for transportation to their tents, or to our 
 forts. These pieces are the four limbs, the 
 two sides of ribs, the two sinews on each 
 side of the back bone, the brisket, the croup, 
 and the back bone. Besides these, they save 
 and use the tongue, heart, liver, paunch, 
 and some part of the entrails. The head, 
 they carry home, the meat Which is on it 
 they eat; and the brains they rub over the 
 skin, in dressing it.— After they have taken 
 all the meat off from the skin, they stretch 
 it on a frame, and suffer it to dry. They 
 next scrape ol all the hair, and rub the 
 brains of the animal over the skin, and 
 
288 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 then smoke it; after which they soak it in 
 water, for about a day. They then take it 
 out and wring it as dry as possible; and a 
 woman takes hold of each end, and they 
 hold it over a fire, frequently pulling it and 
 changing its sides, until it is perfectly dry. 
 After this it is smoked with rotten wood, 
 and it becomes fit for use. This last part 
 of the process, is to prevent it from becom- 
 ing hard after it has been wet. 
 
 The Sauteux, who remain about the Lake 
 of the Woods, now begin to plant Indian 
 ^^corn and potatoes, which grow well. The 
 Man?j^:.xi.^ ,also, along the Missouri Eiver, 
 cultivate the soil, and produce Indian corn, 
 beans, pumpkins, tobacco, &c. As they do 
 not understand curing their tobacco, it is of 
 little use to them. The Sauteux, who live 
 back from Mackana, raise large quantities of 
 Indian corn, beans, &c. And also make 
 much sugar, from the maple tree, which they 
 dispose of to the North West Company, for 
 cloth and other ^ articles. As soon as the 
 animals become scarce, that are hunted for 
 their furs, the Natives must till the ground 
 for subsistence, or live upon fish. This state 
 of things already exists, in many places; 
 and must, in all probability, be extended. 
 
 The Indians sometimes take the largest 
 fish, such as sturgeon, trout, and some 
 white fish, with spears. At other times, they 
 take their fish in drag-nets or scoop-nets. 
 But the more general way of taking them 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 289 
 
 is the following. They have nets, of from 
 twenty to sixty fathoms, in length, which 
 contain from twelve to forty meshes, of from 
 two to seven inches in depth. Upon lines, 
 which are fixed upon each side of the net, 
 for the purpose of streng'thening it, they 
 fasten, opposite to each other, a small stone 
 and a wooden buoy, once in about the dis- 
 tance of two fathoms. The net is carefully 
 thrown into the water, and by means of the 
 stones on the one side, and the buoys on the 
 other, it becomes extended, to its full breadth. 
 The ends of the net, which forms a semicircle, 
 are secured by stones ; and it is visited every 
 day, and taken out of the water every second 
 day, to be cleaned and dried. This is a 
 very easy operation, when the water is not 
 frozen. But the ice which, at some places, 
 acquires the thickness of five feet, renders 
 the setting and taking out of the nets, a 
 work of greater difficulty. They then cut 
 holes, at the distance of thirty feet from 
 each other, to the whole length of the net, 
 one of which, is larger than the rest, being 
 generally about four feet square, and is called 
 the basin. Through these holes, by means 
 of poles of a suitable length, the net is placed 
 in and drawn out of the water. 
 
 The Indians, throughout the whole country 
 that I have visited, have no other animals 
 domesticated, excepting the horse and the 
 dog. Of the latter, they have several dif- 
 ferent species. Some of them are very large 
 
 J9 
 
290 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 and strong, and are employed in carrying 
 burdens ; while others, which are small, assist 
 their masters in the chace. — All Indians are 
 very fond of their hunting dogs. The people 
 on the west side of the Rocky Mountain, 
 appear to have the same affection for them, 
 that they have for their children; and they 
 wiU discourse with them, as if they were 
 rational beings. They frequently call them 
 their sons or daughters ; and when describing 
 an Indian, they will speak of him as father 
 of a particular dog which belongs to him. 
 WTien these dogs die, it is not unusual to 
 see their masters or mistresses place them 
 on a pile of wood, and burn them in the 
 same manner as they do the dead bodies 
 of their relations ; and they appear to lament 
 their deaths, by crying and howling, fully 
 as much as if they were their kindred. Not- 
 withstanding this affection, however, when 
 they have nothing else with which to pur- 
 chase articles which they want, they will 
 sell their dogs. • 
 
 Those Indians, who live in a woody country, 
 make no use of horses, but employ their large 
 dogs, to assist in carrying their baggage 
 from place to place. The load is placed 
 near their shoulders, and some of these dogs, 
 which are accustomed to it, vdll carry sixty 
 or seventy pounds weight, the distance of 
 twenty five or thirty miles in a day. 
 
 The Assiniboins, Rapid Indians, Black feet 
 and Mandans, together with all the other 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 291 
 
 Indians who inhabit a plain country, always 
 perform their journies on horse back. Indeed 
 they seldom go even a short distance from 
 their tents, in any other manner. They 
 have some excellent horses, which will carry 
 them a great distance in a day. They some- 
 times go seventy miles, in twelve hours; 
 but forty or forty five miles is a common 
 day's ride. They do not often use bridles,, 
 but guide their horses with halters, made 
 of ropes, which are manufactured from the 
 hair of the buffaloe, which are very strong 
 and durable. On the back of the horse, 
 they put a dressed buffaloe skin, on the top 
 of which, they place a pad, from which are 
 suspended stirrups, made of wood, and cov- 
 ered with the skin of the testicles of the 
 buffaloe. 
 
 Some of these Indians have forty or fifty 
 horses; and they attach a great value to 
 those, that are distinguished for their speed. 
 Whenever an Assiniboin sells a racer, he sepa- 
 rates from him, in a most affectionate manner. 
 Immediately before delivering him to the pur- 
 chaser, he steps up to the favourite animal, 
 and whispers in his ear, telling him not to 
 be cast down or angry with his master for 
 disposing of him to another, for, he adds, 
 "you shall not remain long where you are. 
 I sold you to obtain certain articles, that I 
 stood in great need of; but before many 
 nights have passed, I will come and steal 
 you away." And, unless great vigilance on 
 
292 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 the part of the purchaser prevent, he gener- 
 ally fulfils his promise ; for they are the great- 
 est horse thieves, perhaps upon the face of 
 the earth. As there never falls much snow 
 on the large plains, the horses have not much 
 difficulty in finding a sufficiency of grass, on 
 which to subsist, during the whole year ; and 
 they are generally in good order. 
 
 The Indians who reside about large lakes 
 and rivers, voyage about in the summer 
 season, in canoes, made of the bark of the 
 birch or spruce fir tree; and two persons in 
 one of them, ^ill easily go fifty miles in a 
 day. The paddles, with which the canoe is 
 moved, are about five feet long, half of which 
 length, is a blade, four inches wide. 
 
 The Indians are good walkers; and will 
 at sometimes, travel forty miles in a day, 
 with a pretty heavy load upon their backs. 
 
 In the winter season, the Indians use snow 
 shoes; and it would be impossible to travel 
 without them. They are constructed in sev- 
 eral different shapes ; but the following is the 
 most common form. They take a piece of 
 wood, and with a crooked knife, work it 
 down, until it is about two inches wide, and 
 an inch thick. These sticks are fastened to- 
 gether at one end, which constitutes the hind 
 part ; they are then bent so as to be about 
 a foot asunder in the middle, and to come 
 nearly together forward. The space between 
 these sticks, they fill up with a lace work of 
 thongs of deer skin. Other snow shoes come 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 293 
 
 quite to a point before, where they are turned 
 up; the side pieces are from eighteen to 
 twenty four inches apart, and, in the fall of 
 the year, when the snow is light, they are 
 seven feet in length. The inner side piece is 
 nearly straight, and the outside is arching, 
 and the extremities behind, come together in 
 a point. The space between them, is worked 
 as above mentioned. It is a little surpris- 
 ing that the Indians, who are accustomed to 
 them, will walk farther in a day on good 
 snow shoes, than they could do on bare 
 ground. But it is very fatiguing for those to 
 walk on them, who are not accustomed to do 
 it. The Indians are trained to this exercise 
 from the age of four years. Even at that 
 early age, they will go five or six miles in a 
 day upon them, through the whole winter, 
 as often as the Indians decamp, which, at 
 sometimes, is every day, and at other times, 
 once in eight or ten days. Indians, who 
 live upon the chace, in a country where ani- 
 mals are scarce, cannot remain long in a 
 place; and those who hunt the beaver and 
 some other animals, must continually shift 
 their residence. 
 
 Few of the Indians live in a state of celib- 
 acy. They generally marry when they are 
 between eighteen and twenty five years of age. 
 Polygamy is allowed among all the tribes; 
 but only a few persons among them, have 
 more than one wife, each. I knew, how- 
 ever, a chief, among the Beaver Indians, 
 
294 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 who had eleven wives, and more than forty 
 children. 
 
 Their courtship and marriage are con- 
 ducted in the following manner. A young 
 man who is desirous of taking a wife, looks 
 around among the young women of his ac- 
 quaintance, to find one that pleases his fancy. 
 Having thus singled out one, to her he makes 
 known his intentions ; and if his addresses are 
 favourably received, he visits her, in the night 
 season, by crawling softly into the tent where 
 she lodges, and where she is expecting him, 
 after the other inhabitants of the lodge are 
 asleep. Here the}^ pass the night, by con- 
 versing in a whisper, lest they should be 
 heard by the rest of the family, who all oc- 
 cupy the same apartment. As the morning 
 light approaches, he withdraws in the same 
 silent manner, in which he came. These 
 nocturnal visits are kept up for several 
 months; or, until the young couple think 
 that they should be happy, in passing their 
 days together. The girl then proposes the 
 subject to her mother, and she converses with 
 the father in regard to the intended match. 
 If he give his consent, and the mother 
 agree with him in opinion, she will direct her 
 daughter to invite her suitor to come and 
 remain with them. It is now only, that the^^ 
 cohabit ; and whatever the young man kills, 
 he brings home and presents it to the father 
 of his wife. In this way he lives, during a 
 year or more, without having any property 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 295 
 
 that he can call his own. After his wife has 
 a child, she calls her husband by no other 
 name but the father of her son or daughter. 
 And now he is at liberty to leave the tent 
 of his wife's father, if he pleases. All the 
 Indians on the east side of the rocky moun- 
 tain, think it very indecent for a father or 
 mother in law, to speak to, or look in the 
 face of a son or daughter in law; and they 
 never do either unless they are very much 
 intoxicated. The reason which they give for 
 this custom, when questioned on the subject 
 is, the peculiar intercourse which this person 
 has had with their child. 
 
 When two young persons of different sexes, 
 have an affection for each other, and wish 
 to be connected in marriage, to which the 
 father of the girl will not consent, they fre- 
 quently leave the tents of their parents, and 
 go and join some distant band of Indians. 
 They are, however, often pursued, by the 
 father of the young woman ; and should he 
 overtake them, he will bring his daughter 
 back, and keep a strict watch over her con- 
 duct, to prevent all intercourse between her 
 and her suitor. All neighbouring tribes fre- 
 quently intermarry. 
 
 Chastity in young women, is considered as 
 a virtue, by the Indians, generally, on the 
 east side of the Rocky Mountain ; and many 
 mothers, among some tribes are so particu- 
 lar, that they never allow their daughters, 
 who have arrived at a certain age, to go 
 
296 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 from home alone, but always send some per- 
 son with them, as a protector. Chastity 
 in married persons is universally regarded as 
 a virtue; and the want of it in a woman, 
 is frequently the cause of her being rejected 
 by her husband. A separation, also, at some 
 times, takes place, on account of the slothful- 
 ness of the woman. WTien such an event 
 does occur, all the children, if small, remain 
 with their mother, but should they have sons, 
 advanced beyond the period of childhood, 
 they remain with their father. Their sepa- 
 rations, however, are seldom lasting; and 
 after a few days absence, the parties gener- 
 ally have an inclination to return to each 
 other. These separations commonly take 
 place in obedience to the will of the husband, 
 only because, possessing greater physical 
 strength, he has more power to drive his 
 wife from him, or to retain her with him, 
 against her choice, than she has to treat 
 him in a similar manner. 
 
 The Indian women sit down in a decent 
 attitude, placing their knees close to each 
 other. They are very particular, also, in 
 regard to their behaviour, during their peri- 
 odical illness. They then leave the tents 
 where their families reside, and go and put 
 up temporary ones, at a little distance from 
 them, where they remain during the continu- 
 ance of their illness. While they are there, 
 the men will not deign to hold any con- 
 versation with them; nor will they suffer 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 297 
 
 them to make use of any article, which they 
 expect to want the use of afterwards. This 
 custom prevails among all the tribes, with 
 whom I have been acquainted. The first 
 time that the young women, among the 
 Sauteux, Crees and some other tribes, experi- 
 ence this illness, they run into the woods, 
 and remain there for several days. They 
 then return to their tents, and immediately 
 proceed to cut and pile up a cord of wood, 
 as high as their heads; after which all the 
 women of the camp come and scramble for 
 it, and carry it away, saying, that the per- 
 son who cut the wood, is now a woman like 
 themselves, and that they hope she will prove 
 to be industrious. 
 
 The men among the Indians, are very sub- 
 ject to be jealous of their wives. In their fits 
 of jealousy, they often cut off all the hair 
 from the heads of their wives, and, not un- 
 frequently, cut off their noses, also; and 
 should they not in the moment of passion 
 have a knife at hand, they will snap it off 
 at one bite, with their teeth. But such a 
 circumstance does not ordinarily produce a 
 separation between them. The man is satis- 
 fied in thus revenging a supposed injury; 
 and having destroyed the beauty of his wife, 
 he concludes that he has secured her against 
 all future solicitations to offend. 
 
 All the Indians consider women as far in- 
 feriour in every respect, to men ; and, among 
 many tribes, they treat their wives much as 
 
298 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 they do their dogs. The men chastise their 
 wives, frequently, with an axe, or with a 
 large club; and in the presence of their hus- 
 bands, the women dare not look a person in 
 the face. When they decamp, the women 
 transport the baggage ; and when they stop, 
 while the men are quietly smoking their 
 pipes, the women are required to pitch the 
 tents, and to set the encampment in order. 
 Among the Sauteux, Crees, Muscagoes and 
 Assiniboins, however, the women are treated 
 with more gentleness and respect. The hus- 
 band shares the labour with his wife; and 
 the women govern every thing in their tents, 
 so that the husband presumes not to dispose 
 of the most trifling article, without the con- 
 sent of his wife. Among them the husband 
 kills animals and generally brings the meat 
 to his tent, where his viife prepares it for 
 drying, and melts down the fat. She, also 
 generally does the cooking; not, however, 
 without the occasional assistance of her hus- 
 band. He assists her, likewise, in taking- 
 care of the children; and, if his wife is too 
 much loaded, in marching from one place of 
 encampment to another, he will take one of 
 the small children in addition to the load 
 already on his own back. But the Indians, 
 who inhabit the plains, never carry any 
 thing on their backs, as they are well sup- 
 plied with horses. 
 
 The following ceremonies attend the birth 
 of children. When the time of a woman ap- 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 299 
 
 proaches, she erects a small hut, at a little 
 distance from the tent in which she usually 
 lives ; and at the time of labour, she sends 
 an invitation to several neighbouring women, 
 to come to her assistance. As soon as the 
 child is born, it is washed in water, that 
 had been previously prepared, by boiling in 
 it a sweet scented root. The mother then 
 orders a feast to be prepared. As soon as 
 it is ready, the most aged woman of the 
 company, takes a little out of the dish, and 
 throws it into the fire, and then helps the 
 whole company; not passing by the mother 
 of the child, who is generally able to join 
 them in the repast. The old lady of cere- 
 monies, now offers up a short prayer to the 
 Creator, or the Master of life, as they denom- 
 inate him, in behalf of the new born babe, 
 the substance of which is, that its life may be 
 spared, and that it may grow ; and if a son, 
 become a handsome young lad. 
 
 A woman after child birth, remains in the 
 separate dwelling which she had erected, for 
 the space of about thirty days, during which 
 time, no man would, on any account, enter 
 the place of her residence. At the close of 
 this period, she returns to her tent, and the 
 father of the child prepares a feast to which 
 all their neighbours are invited, the object of 
 which as they say, is, to welcome the arrival 
 of the little stranger, from a far country. 
 
 Should a male child live, the parents dry 
 the meat of the first animal that he kills, 
 
300 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 and carefully keep it, until they can collect 
 a suflBciency of something to make a feast. 
 They then invite their friends, of both sexes, 
 to come and partake of the fruits of the 
 hunt of their son ; for, they so call it, because 
 the animal which he killed, they mix with 
 what his parents have procured. Before any 
 taste of the feast, one of the most respectable 
 men present, takes a little out of the dish, 
 and throws it into the fire; and then be- 
 seeches the Great Spirit, to be kind to the 
 lad, and to allow him to grow up, and to 
 become a skilful hunter; and to cause that 
 when he goes to war, he ma}" not behave 
 like an old woman, but may return with the 
 scalps of his enemies. 
 
 Indian women appear to suffer less pain in 
 child birth, than women in civilized countries. 
 They rarely ever take any medicine, at the 
 time of delivery, though they do, at time*^, 
 drink water, in which the rattle of a rattle- 
 snake has been boiled. In the season of 
 labour, they place their knees upon the floor 
 or ground, and lean forward over something, 
 raised about two feet high. It is seldom 
 more than a quarter or a half an hour, be- 
 fore the child is born ; and, in a few days the 
 mother is as active and vigorous as ever. 
 The Indian women rarely ever die, at this 
 critical period. 
 
 Among the natives, those persons who are 
 in any way deformed, or have any blemish 
 about them, receive their name from this 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 301 
 
 circumstance ; while the others are named, 
 after some beast or bird. No Indian will 
 inform another, even if requested, what his 
 own name is; though he will, if asked, give 
 the name of other Indians. Of the reason of 
 this reserve I am ignorant. 
 
 It is not often that an Indian chastises 
 his children ; and, indeed, it is not necessary, 
 for they appear, in general, to have much 
 affection and respect for their parents, and 
 are therefore ready to obey them. A father 
 never interferes in the bringing up of his 
 daughter; but leaves lier wholly to the care 
 of her mother. When a son becomes of a 
 suitable age, his father takes him with him in 
 hunting, and learns him the different modes 
 of taking animals. A son until he is married, 
 considers himself as under his father's con- 
 troul; and even after that, he will gener- 
 ally listen to any advice, which his father 
 may give to him. The aged are commonly 
 treated with much respect, which they con- 
 sider themselves as entitled to claim. Should 
 a young man behave disrespectfully toward 
 an old man, the aged will refer him to his 
 hoary head, and demand of him, if he be 
 not ashamed to insult his grey hairs. In 
 short, the aged of both sexes are generally 
 treated with kindness; and are not suffered 
 to want any thing which they need, and which 
 it is in the power of their relations to procure 
 for them. 
 
 The superior influence of the white people, 
 
302 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 where they have, for a considerable time, 
 resided among the Indians, has very much 
 diminished their respect for their own chiefs ; 
 though there are some among them, who 
 bear this title. The feasts are commonly 
 made by the chiefs; and they, also, gener- 
 ally make the harangues, in behalf of their 
 bands, when they visit our forts. Their war 
 chiefs have considerable influence over the 
 young men, who accompany them, in their 
 war parties. 
 
 Murder and theft are considered as crimes ; 
 and the former is always punished with 
 death, unless the murderer makes his escape, 
 which is generally the case. Theft, also, is 
 frequently punished in a similar manner. 
 Sometimes, the party offended will be ap- 
 peased, by the restoration of the stolen 
 property, or of an equivalent. 
 
 Generosity is among the Indian virtues. 
 They are more ready, in proportion to their 
 means, to assist a neighbour who may be in 
 want, than the inhabitants, generally, of 
 civilized countries. An Indian rarely kills an 
 animal, without sending a part of it to a 
 neighbour, if he has one near him. 
 
 The private property of the Indians, con- 
 sists of horses, dogs, tents, guns, and the 
 utensils that belong to their tents. Some 
 of these things, a little before their death, 
 they bequeath to some of their friends; but 
 all of their clothing, guns, powder horns, &c. 
 are buried with them. Indeed, the Indians 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 303 
 
 suffer nothing to remain in or about the 
 tent of a person who has died, which he was 
 accustomed to make use of while he was 
 alive. They consider it a kind of sacrilege to 
 mention the name of a person after he is 
 dead ; and they never speak of him as dead, 
 but as miserable, because, they say, he has 
 taken a long journey alone, to the country, 
 to which his deceased relations had gone be- 
 fore him. 
 
 Whenever any one is very sick, the whole of 
 his family, and frequently all of his relations, 
 will give some part of their clothing in sac- 
 rifice to the devil or evil spirit, who, they 
 suppose, is the cause of his illness. They, 
 however, pray to the Good Spirit, or Master 
 of life, for his recovery, as they believe that 
 he has the power, if he choose to exercise it, 
 of restoring him to health, notwithstanding 
 the design which the evil spirit has, of tak- 
 ing his life from him. 
 
 All the Indians on the east side of the 
 Rocky Mountain, bury their dead. After a 
 person is dead, some of his deceased relatives 
 cut off a lock of his hair, which they care- 
 fully lay up; and they sometimes preserve 
 such relicks, for a great number of years. 
 Preparatory to its interment, they dress the 
 corpse in as gay a manner as possible; and 
 then wrap a blanket, over the whole. But 
 they never sew or pin this blanket together, 
 lest he should be unable to shake it off with 
 ease, when he arrives in the other world. If 
 
304 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 it were fastened, they say, he might lie in it 
 for several days, after his arrival in the land 
 of his departed relations, before any one 
 would meet with, and release him. The bot- 
 tom and sides of the grave, which is two or 
 three feet deep, are lined with the branches 
 of trees. The corpse is then deposited in it ; 
 and along with it, a pipe and tobacco, a dish 
 or small kettle, an awl and sinews to repair 
 his shoes, and a sufficiency of provisions, to 
 support him for a few days, until he shall 
 arrive in the land of plenty. They then 
 cover the body with branches, and fill up the 
 grave with earth ; and on the top of it, they 
 place bark, to protect it from the rain or 
 snow. They then clear off the bushes and 
 grass, for eight or ten feet around the grave ; 
 and every spring, the ground is thus renew- 
 edly cleared, for several years after. About 
 the grave, they set up a few stakes on which 
 they hang strips of cloth, tobacco, &c. While 
 the ceremonies of interment are performing, 
 the relatives and friends of the deceased, 
 make the most dismal moans and cries; 
 and, to convince others of their grief, and, 
 as they say, to ease their wounded hearts, 
 some of them cut the hair of their heads 
 short, or make incisions in their faces and 
 arms, while others, to whom the deceased 
 was more dear, will seize an arrow, in an 
 agony of grief, and run it through the fleshy 
 part of their thighs. 
 
 The Indians generally appear to be more 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 305 
 
 afflieted with the loss of an infant, helpless 
 child, than of a person that has arrived to 
 mature age; for the latter, they say, can 
 provide for himself, in the country whither 
 he has gone, while the former, is too young 
 to depend upon himself. 
 
 The men appear to be ashamed to mani- 
 fest their grief at the loss of any one, how- 
 ever dear he might have been to them; but 
 the women give full vent to the feelings of 
 nature. The fond mother, when she looses a 
 young child, will pull out all the hair of her 
 head ; cut her face, arms and legs, in a shock- 
 ing manner ; burn all her clothes, excepting a 
 few rags, which she has upon her; and, to 
 render herself as wretched, as she expresses 
 it, as her child, when the weather is stormy, 
 she will stand for hours at a time, in the 
 open air, and pitifully moan, in such lan- 
 guage as this. "How wretched are you, my 
 child, to be torn from your friends while so 
 young and helpless; and to be sent alone, 
 into a strange country ! Who will now give 
 you bread when you are hungry, and water, 
 when you are thirsty, and make a covering 
 for you to lie under when it rains or snows ! 
 that I could once more press you, my dear 
 child, to my troubled breast ! Of what use 
 to me are all my medicines, since they could 
 not save your life, and keep you a little longer 
 with us !" Then, in a rage of passion and of 
 grief, she will rush into her tent, and seize 
 
 her medicine bag, and throw it into the fire. 
 
 20 
 
306 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 All the Indian tribes are frequently at war 
 with each other; and at some times, two 
 tribes will league together, against one 
 tribe or more. Those who reside in a woody 
 country, do not as frequently wage war 
 against their neighbours, as those who live 
 in the large plains. The latter, generally 
 engage in war, either offensive or defensive, 
 at the opening of every spring. The summer 
 is the only season of military operations, 
 among the Indians; though they frequently 
 employ much time in the winter, in providing 
 bows, arrows, guns and ammunition, with 
 reference to a campaign, the ensuing season. 
 Preparatory to hostilities, the chiefs, toward 
 the close of winter, send young men with 
 presents of tobacco, to the whole tribe, who 
 are scattered over their territory, inviting 
 them to meet, at a specified place, early in 
 the spring, in general council. At this meet- 
 ing, chiefs are appointed to conduct the war. 
 The war pipe is then lighted up, and those 
 who are willing to become soldiers in the 
 campaign, smoke the pipe. None are com- 
 pelled to enlist; but, to excite in the young 
 men a martial spirit, and to stimulate them 
 to become his followers, the war chief makes 
 a long harangue, in which he relates the in- 
 juries, that they have received from their 
 enemies. By a strong appeal to their savage 
 feelings, he labours to convince them, that 
 it will be sweet and manly, to revenge these 
 insults ; and to return from the war, with the 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 307 
 
 scalps of their enemies, and with their wives, 
 and children, and horses, &c. 
 
 A feast is then made, of which all partake, 
 after which, the young men dance, and sing 
 war songs. After these ceremonies are ended, 
 the chief or chiefs set out on the war ex- 
 pedition, with as many as choose to follow 
 them ; and as they leave the camp, the war 
 party join in a war song. After their depar- 
 ture, the old men and women and children 
 pursue their usual occupations, to obtain a 
 subsistence. Frequently, after the war party 
 has been gone several days, some of the 
 young men return, to join their relations or 
 lovers. All the punishment to which they 
 subject themselves is, to be called old women, 
 by which is meant, cowards ; a charge which 
 touches an Indian to the quick. 
 
 War parties frequently travel four or five 
 hundred miles, before they reach the territory 
 of their enemies. On their way, they subsist 
 upon animals which they kill, and fish which 
 they take, from the lakes and rivers. These 
 supplies are often very inadequate, and they 
 suffer greatly by hunger. 
 
 Having arrived near the place where they 
 expect to find their enemies, the chiefs send 
 out scouting parties, in order to ascertain 
 their position, numbers and any other cir- 
 cumstances which it may be necessary for 
 them to know, in order to form a plan for 
 taking them by surprise. The Indians never 
 attack their enemies in the open day; but 
 
308 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 fall upon them when asleep, near the ap- 
 proach of the light of the morning. 
 
 If they succeed in conquering their enemies, 
 as is generally the case, since those who 
 make the attack have greatly the advantage, 
 they make terrible havoc among the men; 
 but they labour to take as many of their 
 women and children alive, as they possibly 
 can, in order to carry them home as slaves. 
 They never torture these captives; but keep 
 them to perform the menial service about 
 their tents, or dispose of them to others. 
 Sometimes they are adopted into the families 
 of their enemies, in the place of children that 
 they have lost; and then they are treated 
 with all the tenderness and affection, which 
 would be exercised toward a near relation. 
 
 On their return from the expedition, the 
 war party approach the tents of their band, 
 with their faces blackened, and singing the 
 war song. Their relations immediately make 
 a feast, at which the warriours dance, with 
 the scalps of their enemies which they have 
 taken, in tiieir hands; and recount the his- 
 tory of the expedition, particularly relating 
 the manner in which they fell upon their 
 enemies, the number of men that they killed, 
 and of slaves, horses, &c. which they have 
 taken. They then distribute a part of the 
 booty, among the aged chiefs, and most 
 respectable men of the tribe, who remained 
 at home. The young men, who deserted the 
 party, are treated with contempt; and the 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 309 
 
 young women, whose charms may have at- 
 tracted them back, frequently compose songs 
 of derision, in regard to their behaviour. 
 
 The occasions of war among the Indians 
 are various. Sometimes a person in one 
 tribe has been murdered by a person be- 
 longing to another tribe; sometimes the 
 members of one tribe have hunted on the 
 lands of another; and sometimes horses 
 have been stolen. The Indians, who inhabit 
 the large plains, who always go to war on 
 horseback, frequently attack their neighbours 
 merely to obtain, by this means, horses and 
 slaves. It is not uncommon, also, for the 
 Natives, when they lose a respected chief, 
 or any other person generally beloved, either 
 by an ordinary or a violent death, to form 
 a war party, for the purpose of killing one 
 person or more, of a neighbouring tribe ; and 
 the Case is the same, whether this tribe be 
 at peace with them, or not. This slaughter, 
 they say, enables them to calm their grief, 
 and sets their hearts at rest, as blood has 
 thus been offered to the manes of their de- 
 parted friend. 
 
 A person appointed to head a war party, 
 is called a chief, or 0-ke-maw. He must 
 have given distinguished proof of his bravery, 
 prudence and cunning, in former war ex- 
 peditions, in order that he should be con- 
 sidered as qualified to fill this post. Great 
 skill, in coming upon an enemy by surprise, 
 as on this circumstance the success of an 
 
310 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 attack depends, is considered as the first req- 
 uisite in a military leader. It is considered 
 necessary, also, that he should be well ac- 
 quainted mth the situation of the territories 
 of the enemy, and with the course leading to 
 them, in which provisions can most easily be 
 obtained. A war party sometim.es consists 
 of several hundreds; but frequently it does 
 not amount to more than twenty. The war 
 chief has no authority over his followers, 
 but his advice is generally respected and fol- 
 lowed. 
 
 It is not often that two tribes, who have 
 been in the habit of carrying on war against 
 each other, formally enter into terms of 
 peace. When such an event does take place, 
 the following circumstances attend it. One 
 chief or more, and several young men of his 
 tribe, go with their pipe of peace, to find 
 their enemies; and on their arrival among 
 them, they express a desire to hold a council 
 with them. Upon this, all the elders of the 
 tribe visited are called together; and the 
 chief, who is an ambassadour for peace, 
 makes known his business, and strives to 
 convince his enemies, that it will be for their 
 advantage to live on amicable terms with 
 his tribe. 
 
 Should the terms of peace be agreed on, 
 the parties smoke in each ether's pipes, after 
 which a feast is prepared; and w^hen that is 
 concluded, the remainder of the night is spent 
 in singing and dancing. — But should the 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 311 
 
 embassy be unsuccessful, the chief, with his 
 attendants, will return, and make report of 
 his proceedings to his own tribe; and those 
 of them who are able and willing to bear 
 arms, will immediately, though as secretly as 
 possible, commence making preparations for 
 a campaign, the ensuing spring. The points 
 of the arrows, which the Indians use in at- 
 tacking their enemies, are sometimes dipped 
 in a poisonous liquid which they extract 
 from certain roots. 
 
 All the Indians spend much of their time 
 in some kind of amusement. The inhabi- 
 tants of the plains, generally, and of New 
 Caledonia, live in large bands ; and are much 
 more addicted to a^:?usements, than the in- 
 habitants of woody countries who are more 
 scattered. Every tribe has amusements pe- 
 culiar to itself; but some plays are com- 
 mon to all, who reside on the east side of 
 the Rocky Mountain. The As«iniboins, as 
 well as all the other Indians in the plains, 
 spend much of their time about their horses, 
 and are fond of trying their speed. Their 
 youth, from the age of four or five to that 
 of eighteen or twenty years, pass nearly 
 half of their time in shooting arrows at a 
 mark; and to render this employment more 
 interesting, they always have something at 
 stake, which is generally nothing more than 
 an arrow, or something of small value. From 
 so early and constant a practice, they become, 
 at length, the best marksmen, perhaps, in 
 
312 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 the world. Many of them, at the distance 
 of eight or ten rods, will throw an arrow 
 with such precision, as twice out of three 
 times, to hit a mark of the size of a dollar. 
 The young men often amuse themselves, in 
 the summer season, by a game of ball. 
 
 What is denominated by the Indians, the 
 dish game, is played with peculiar interest, 
 by all the tribes with whom I have been 
 acquainted. Eight or ten little pieces of 
 bones, or so many buttons, or some similar 
 things, have a certain number of marks upon 
 their different sides, so that they bear 
 some resemblance to dice. These are put into 
 a dish, which two persons shake alternately, 
 and turn its contents on the ground. The 
 marks on the sides of the bones, &c. which 
 are uppermost, are then counted; and, in a 
 given number of throws, he who can count 
 the greatest number of marks, wins whatever 
 is at stake; for they never play, without 
 something. 
 
 The Sauteux and Crees are very fond of 
 playing at draughts ; and they are consider- 
 ably skilful, at this game. They have, also, 
 many other plays and diversions, which 
 enable them to pass away the greater part 
 of their leisure time, gaily. The Indians, 
 generally, appear cheerful and contented, 
 when oppressed by no present diflficulty or 
 danger; for they take little thought for the 
 things of the morrow. 
 
 The Indians do not often dance, in the 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 313 
 
 day time; but they frequently spend their 
 long winter evenings, in this amusement, 
 accompanied by singing; and they appear 
 to enjoy themselves fully as well, on such 
 occasions, as civilized people do, at their 
 more refined assemblies. 
 
 All the Natives are accustomed to make 
 feasts, on various occasions, and particularly 
 when any uncommon or important business 
 is to be transacted. When a band of from 
 thirty to fifty tents is collected, scarcely a 
 day passes without an entertainment, made 
 by some one of the number. 
 
 When a chief proposes to make a feast, he 
 invites such guests as he pleases, by sending 
 to them quills, or small pieces of wood. 
 Every person, who attends, brings with him 
 a dish and a knife. The chief generally re- 
 ceives his guests, standing, but oftentimes, 
 sitting ; and a person who assists him, seats 
 them, according to their ages or respect- 
 ability, the most honourable place being 
 next to the chief. After having made a divi- 
 sion of what had been provided, into a num- 
 ber of parts, equal to the number of persons 
 present, the chief lights his pipe, and smokes 
 a few whiffs himself; and he then presents 
 the stem toward the sun, as if offering it 
 to that luminary, and to the earth, and 
 then t/o his deceased relations, pointing it 
 toward the fire. These ceremonies being over, 
 he presents it successively to each person 
 present, who smokes a few whiffs in his turn. 
 
314 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 A small quantity of meat or drink is then 
 sacrificed, by throwing it into the fire, or 
 on the earth, and the provisions are served 
 round. While the company are partaking of 
 them, the chief sings, and accompanies his 
 song, by the che-che-quy or tambourin. The 
 person who devours his portion the soonest, 
 is considered as deserving applause. If any 
 cannot eat all that is set before him, as cus- 
 tom does not allow him to leave any thing, 
 he endeavours, by the promise of a reward 
 of tobacco or ammunition, to prevail upon 
 his friends to assist him. These substitutes, 
 it is frequently difficult to procure, as the 
 food provided on these occasions, is gener- 
 ally much more than is necessary to satisfy 
 the calls of nature. At some of their feasts, 
 a more rational custom prevails, of permit- 
 ting the guests to carry away what they do 
 not wish to eat, of their portions. The meat 
 which is generally eaten on these occasions, 
 is that of the beaver; and the bones of this 
 animal, which are extremely hard, that re- 
 main after the feast, are burned, lest the 
 dogs, by attempting to break them, should 
 injure their teeth. 
 
 The public feasts are conducted in the 
 same manner, but ^ith additional ceremony. 
 Several chiefs unite in preparing a suitable 
 place, and in collecting suflficient provisions, 
 for the accommodation of a numerous assem- 
 blage. To provide a place, poles are fixed 
 obliquely into the ground, enclosing a suf- 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 315 
 
 ficient space to hold several hundred, and at 
 times, nearly a thousand people. On these 
 posle, skins are laid, at the height of twelve 
 or fifteen feet, thus forming a spacious court, 
 or tent. The provisions consist both of dried 
 and of fresh meat, as it would not be prac- 
 ticable to prepare a sufficient quantity of 
 fresh meat, for such a multitude, which, 
 however, consists only of men. At these 
 feasts, the guests converse only on elevated 
 topics, such as the public interests of the 
 tribe, and the noble exploits of their pro- 
 genitors, that they may infuse a publick and 
 an heroic spirit, into their young men. Dan- 
 cing always forms the concluding ceremony, 
 at these festivals; and the women, who are 
 not permitted to enter the place where they 
 are celebrated, dance and sing around them, 
 often keeping time with the music within. 
 
 All the different tribes of Indians, on the 
 east side of the Rocky Mountain, believe in 
 the existence of one Supreme Being, the 
 creator and governour of the world, whom 
 they call Kitch-e-mon-e-too, or the Great 
 Spirit; and to him they ascribe every per- 
 fection. They consider him as the authour 
 of all good, and as too benevolent to inflict 
 any evil upon his creatures. They render him 
 little worship ; but occasionally supplicate of 
 him success in their important undertak- 
 ings, and very rarely, render him some sacri- 
 fices, consisting of some part of their prop- 
 erty. 
 
316 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 They, also, believe in the existence of a 
 bad spirit, whom they call Much-e-mon-e-too, 
 to whom they ascribe great power, and who, 
 they believe is the authour of all evils, by 
 which mankind are afflicted. To him, there- 
 fore, in order to obtain deliverance from 
 evils which they either experience or fear, 
 they offer many, and sometimes expensive, 
 sacrifices. They consider him as ever em- 
 ployed, in plotting against their peace and 
 safety; and they hope, by such means, to 
 appease his anger. 
 
 They, also, believe that there are good 
 and bad spirits, of an inferiour order, who 
 are superiour to men in the scale of existence, 
 and who have allotted spheres of action, in 
 which they are contributing to the happiness 
 or misery of mankind. These beings they 
 suppose preside over all the extraordinary 
 productions of nature, such as large lakes, 
 rivers and mountains, and spacious caverns, 
 &c. and likewise over the beasts, birds, fishes, 
 vegetables, and stones, that exceed the rest 
 of their species in size, or in any other re- 
 markable quality. On this account, they pay 
 to all these objects, some kind of adoration. 
 
 They, also, believe in a future state of 
 existence. Those who, while in the present 
 world, have, according to their ideas of right 
 and wrong, led a good life, will, at death, 
 immediately enter on another and a better 
 state of existence, where they will meet their 
 departed relatives and friends, who will 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 317 
 
 welcome them in the most affectionate manner, 
 to their happy abode. In the future world, 
 they believe that they shall possess bodies 
 more beautiful and healthy and vigourous, 
 than those which they animated on earth; 
 and that they shall be much more happy, 
 than they were in the present life, since the 
 country in which they will reside, abounds 
 with all kinds of game, which they will be 
 able to take, with little or no trouble, and 
 supplies every gratification, in which they 
 now delight, in perfection and without end. 
 
 But those who lead wicked lives on earth, 
 they suppose will, at death, be conveyed 
 into the middle of an extensive swamp or 
 marsh, where they will, for a considerable 
 length of time, be doomed to wander about 
 alone, in search of their deceased friends. 
 After having suffered greatly, from hunger 
 and cold, they suppose that they will, at 
 length, arrive at the pleasant habitation of 
 their departed relatives, and participate with 
 them, in all its delights forever. 
 
 The religious observances of the Indians, 
 consist of prayers, of feasts, and of a sacrifice 
 of some part of their property.— Their pray- 
 ers, which are offered only on special oc- 
 casions, are always, addressed to the Supreme 
 Being, or Master of Life. Their religious 
 festivals are attended with much serious cere- 
 mony. They commence with opening the 
 medicine bag, and displaying its contents, 
 and with smoking out of the sacred stem. 
 
318 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 Almost every male Indian has a medicine bag, 
 which is commonly made of leather, and is 
 about two feet long, and a foot broad. The 
 following articles are generally contained in 
 this bag. The principal in importance is 
 a small image, caryed to resemble a bird, 
 beast or human being, which they seem to 
 consider as the peculiar residence of their tute- 
 lary spirit. This image, they carefully wrap 
 in down, around which a piece of birch bark 
 is tied, and the whole is enclosed in several 
 folds of red and blue cloth. Every Indian 
 appears to have a reverence for the Image 
 in his own medicine bag; but will often 
 speak disrespectfully of one, belonging to 
 another person. The next article in the 
 bag, is the war cap of its owner, which is 
 decorated with the plumes of scarce birds, 
 and with the claws of the beaver, eagle, &c. 
 It has also a quill or feather, suspended from 
 it, for every enemy, whom its owner has slain 
 in battle. The other contents of the bag are 
 a piece of tobacco, and some roots and other 
 substances, which are supposed to possess 
 valuable medicinal qualities. To the outside 
 of the bag, the sacred stem is tied, which is 
 generally about six feet long. This stem is 
 used only for smoking on sacred occasions. 
 This medicine bag is generally hung, in fair 
 weather, on the limb of a tree, or on a stake, 
 at a little distance from the tent; and an 
 Indian would severely beat his wife, if she 
 should presume to touch it. This is the 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 319 
 
 only article which the men invariably carry 
 themselves, when they are decamping. Many 
 of them pretend, that by examining it, they 
 can foretel future events. — The women, also, 
 have their own medicine bag; but they are 
 not considered as of a sacred character, and 
 merely contain their own articles of medicine. 
 — Smoking out of the sacred stem, is per- 
 formed with numerous ceremonies, many of 
 which are probably unmeaning. 
 
 Some Indians make a promise to the 
 Master of Life, that they will make a feast 
 every spring during a certain number of suc- 
 cessive years, if their lives are spared; and 
 they religiously fulfil such vows. 
 
 Some of their feasts are designed to pro- 
 pitiate the evil spirit, as are nearly all the 
 sacrifices which they make of their property. 
 Sometimes in an open enclosure, on the bank 
 of a river or lake, they make large sacrifices 
 of their property. They choose a conspicuous 
 situation, that those who pass by, may 
 be induced to make their offering. If any 
 of the tribe that makes these offerings, or 
 even a stranger who is passing these places, 
 should be in urgent want of anything 
 which has been deposited as an offering, he 
 is allowed to take it, by replacing it with 
 another article which he can spare, though 
 of inferiour value; but to take wantonly any 
 of those devoted articles, is considered as 
 sacrilege. 
 
 There are also certain large rocks and 
 
320 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 caves, which they never pass without leaving 
 at them some trifling article; for they sup- 
 pose that they are the habitations of 
 some good or evil spirits. Indeed they 
 think that almost every lake, river and 
 mountain has its tutelary spirit, whom they 
 attempt to propitiate, by some offering. 
 
 All the Natives suppose the earth to be 
 an extensive plain, and that it is always at 
 rest ; and that the sun and moon and many 
 of the stars continually revolve around it. 
 The sun, they believe to be a large body 
 of fire. To many of the stars they have 
 given names, such as the morning star, the 
 evening star, and the seven stars; and 
 by their position in the heavens, they are 
 able to determine the time of night. They, 
 also, direct their course by them in travel- 
 ling, in the night season. The stars which 
 they have named, they perceive change their 
 position continually in the heavens ; and they 
 believe that, like the sun and the moon, they 
 revolve around the earth. Of the motion of 
 the other stars, they take no notice and con- 
 sider them as stationary. The following is 
 the manner in which they divide a day and 
 night, or twenty four hours : from the first 
 appearance of day light to sunrise, from this 
 time tiU noon, from noon to sunset, from 
 this to midnight, and from midnight to day 
 break. They are ignorant of the number of 
 days, which there are in a year; but reckon 
 thirteen moons, to complete the four seasons. 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 321 
 
 The following are the names of the four 
 seasons, in the Cree tongue. Winter, A-pe- 
 pook or Pepoon; Spring, Me-is-ka-mick or 
 Se-gum-uck ; Summerj Nic-pin ; Autumn, Tuck- 
 wa-gin. 
 
 The names, which they give to the moons 
 that compose the year, are descriptive of 
 the several seasons, and in Cree, are the 
 following : 
 
 May, I-ich-e Pes-im, Frog Moon. 
 
 June, 0-pin-a-w^ we Pes-im, the Moon in 
 which birds begin to lay their eggs. 
 
 July, 0-pus-ko we Pes-im, The Moon when 
 birds cast their feathers. 
 
 August, 0-pa-ko we Pes-im, The Moon when 
 the young birds begin to fly. 
 
 September, Wa-was-kis o Pes-im, The 
 Moon when the moose cast their horns; or 
 A-pin-nas-ko o Pes-im, The Moon when the 
 leaves fall off from the trees. 
 
 October, 0-no-chi-hit-to-wa o Pes-im, The 
 rutting Moon; or 0-ke-wa-ow o Pes-im, The 
 Moon when the fowls go to the south. 
 
 November, Ay-e-coop-ay o Pes-im, Hoar 
 frost Moon. Kus-kut-te-no o Pes-im, Ice 
 Moon. 
 
 December, Pa-watch-e-can-a-nas o Pes-im, 
 Whirlwind Moon. 
 
 January, Kush-a-pa-was-ti-ca-num o Pes- 
 im, Extreme cold Moon. 
 
 February, Kee-chay o Pes-im, The Moon 
 when small birds begin to chirp or sing; 
 or Kich-ee o Pes-im, Big, or old Moon. 
 
322 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 March, Me-ke-su o Pes-im, Eagle Moon. 
 
 April, Nis-ka o Pes-im, Goose Moon, as at 
 this season, these animals return from the 
 south. 
 
 The Indians compute the distance from 
 one place to another, by the number of 
 nights which they have passed, in perform- 
 ing a journey from one to the other. 
 
 All the Natives employ hieroglyphicks, 
 for the purpose of conveying information 
 to those who are distant from them; and 
 this mode of communication, is often of 
 great service to them, as the following cir- 
 cumstances will evince. Portions of each 
 tribe, generally assemble at certain places, 
 every year. \Mien they separate, they proceed 
 in different directions; and at every place 
 where they severally encamp, they fix a num- 
 ber of sticks in the ground, leaning towards 
 the place where they next intend to pitch 
 their tents. If they have been successful in 
 the chace, they paint or draw on a piece of 
 bark, the number and kinds of animals which 
 they may have killed, and hang the bark 
 upon a stake. When Indians who have been 
 unsuccessful in regard to killing animals, fall 
 upon these notices, they derive important 
 advantages from them, as they are thus 
 guided to the place, where they may prob- 
 ably obtain a supply of food. Indeed, with- 
 out some such regulation, the Natives would 
 often be in great danger of perishing with 
 hunger. On the piece of bark, containing 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 323 
 
 information respecting their past success, and 
 their future course, thej leave, also, the date 
 of their encampment, by painting the animal, 
 or whatever else it is that gives name to the 
 then present Moon, or month, and by de- 
 scribing the figure of the Moon at that par- 
 ticular time. And so correct is this mode of 
 conveying intelligence, that a person accus- 
 tomed to it, will generally ascertain, within 
 from twelve to twenty four hours, the time 
 designed to be specified. 
 
 The Indians possess a quick perception, 
 and strong curiosity, and a very retentive 
 memory; and every circumstance which oc- 
 curs, and the various objects which present 
 themselves to their view, are noticed and rec- 
 ollected. And, therefore, at the expiration 
 of twenty years after they have passed only 
 once through a country, to the distance of 
 several hundred miles, they will return by the 
 same way in which they came. Mountains, 
 hills, prairies, lakes, valleys, remarkable rocks, 
 &c. are the objects which they especially 
 notice, and the situation of which, they treas- 
 ure up in their memories ; and by these they 
 are enabled to follow a former track. Al- 
 most any Indian, who has passed once 
 through a country, is able to draw so correct 
 a chart of it, with a piece of charcoal, on 
 bark, that an entire stranger, by its assis- 
 tance, would be able to direct his course tft 
 a particular place, several hundred miles dis- 
 tant, without varying a league from his 
 
324 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 object. — The Natives are never at a loss in re- 
 gard to the different points of the compass, 
 particularly in a woody country, as they well 
 know, that on the north side of the trees, 
 more moss is found, than on the other sides. 
 The priest among the Indians, is also a 
 physician and a conjurer or magician. — When 
 he acfcs as priest, he presides at feasts and 
 funerals. — In the capacity of physician, when 
 sent for, he visits the sick and wounded, and 
 prescribes medicines for their healing, and 
 directs in their application, in doing which 
 he goes through with many ceremonies, with 
 great gravity. If the patient is very ill, he 
 attends him at least every morning, and 
 sings and shakes his che-che-quy, for an hour 
 or two, over his head, making an unpleasant 
 noise, which, it would seem, must do injury 
 to the sick person. These Indian physicians 
 do at times, however, perform distinguished 
 cures. Their medicines consist of the bark 
 of particular trees, of roots and of herbs, 
 used at some times in their simple state, and 
 at others in a compounded form. For wounds 
 and sores, they use, chiefly, decoctions of 
 roots. The doctor is always well paid for 
 his services, and his profession is the most 
 lucrative of any among the Indians. — When 
 he acts as conjurer, he shuts himself up in 
 a small cabin, where he is completely con- 
 cealed from the view, and where he remains 
 silent, during ten or fifteen minutes. He 
 then begins to sing, and to beat his drum, 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS 325 
 
 and continues to do so, for about half an 
 hour. And then, if any one has a question 
 to propose respecting futurity, he is ready 
 to answer it, which, however, he will not do, 
 without a trifling recompense. It is not un- 
 common for events to take place, much as 
 these conjurers predict ; but whether this is 
 to be attributed to their natural sagacity, 
 or to accident, or to other circumstances, 
 I pretend not to determine. 
 
 A person who is desirous of becoming a 
 physician or conjurer, is publickly initiated, 
 with much mysterious ceremony. Among 
 these ceremonies are the following. The old 
 physicians prepare an entertainment for a 
 certain number of people ; and for the young- 
 candidate, they have a peculiar mess, which 
 consists of a bitch, boiled with her young in 
 her. A part of this animal, he must eat ; and 
 they suppose that, it possesses the magical 
 power, of inspiring him with a knowledge 
 of the medicinal qualities of all kinds of 
 barks, herbs, roots, &c.— A woman, who 
 wishes to become a midwife, must not only 
 eat a part of the bitch, but must, also, 
 partake of her puppies, and drink of the 
 broth in which they were boiled; and by 
 this means, she gains, as is supposed, all 
 the knowledge requisite to the practice of 
 this difficult art. 
 
 The Indian physicians never fail of leaving 
 in the place where they collect the roots, 
 herbs, &c. which they use as medicines, 
 
326 ACCOUNT OF THE LNDIANS. 
 
 some trifling article, as a recompense to the 
 guardian spirits, that preside over these 
 substances, for what they have taken. An 
 omission of this would, in their apprehension, 
 destroy most, if not all the efficacy of their 
 medicines. 
 
 The Natives, in general, are very credu- 
 lous and superstitious. They believe that 
 many of their own medicines, when properly 
 applied, will effect almost any thing. They 
 think, however, that we possess some, which, 
 for certain purposes, are much more eflBca- 
 cious than their own. All Indians are very 
 desirous of having a numerous offspring ; and, 
 therefore, those, whose wives are barren, will 
 frequently apply to us for such a medicine 
 as will cause them to become the mothers of 
 children. — The young women, also, make use 
 of a certain powder, of their own composi- 
 tion, for the purpose of engaging or increas- 
 ing the affections of their favourites, for 
 them. By throwing this even upon a stran- 
 ger, who is passing, they believe, it will cause 
 him to be in love with them. In a word, 
 they ascribe a power to this medicine, like 
 that, which more refined imaginations have 
 attributed to the arrows of Cupid. The 
 young women, also, employ many other 
 magical arts, to accomplish the same object. 
 — A woman who is fond of her husband, and 
 who supposes that he has little affection for 
 her, will rub a certain medicine in the palm 
 of her hand, as she is going to bed; and 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 327 
 
 after he falls asleep, she will lay her hand 
 on his heart; and the medicine, she thinks, 
 possesses the power of uniting their hearts 
 together, and of causing their affection, ever 
 afterward, to be reciprocal. 
 
 The Indians have no professional mechan- 
 icks among them. Every man is his own 
 artificer, and is able to construct the few 
 domestick manufactured articles, which he 
 uses. Some persons among them, more in- 
 genious than the rest, are frequently applied 
 to, to execute some things which require 
 considerable skill, such as putting a stock 
 to a gun; but they take no compensation, 
 for such a service. Their bows and arrows 
 are neatly constructed. In order to make 
 their arrows round and straight and 
 smooth, after they have been reduced nearly 
 to their proper size with a knife, they use the 
 following method. They take two pieces 
 of wood, of suitable thickness, which are 
 several inches long, and cut in each of them 
 a straight channel, of the same size, and 
 of such a shape, that, when both are placed 
 together, they form a circular hole. Over this 
 channel, they spread glue, and upon that 
 they sprinkle sand; and they repeat the 
 operation, until a complete file is formed. 
 The arrow is then placed in the channel, 
 between the two pieces of wood, and is 
 briskly passed backward and forward, until 
 it is reduced to its proper size. Their pipes 
 are made of a soft stone. The bowl, into 
 
328 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 which the tobacco is put, is circular, and 
 at the bottom it is flat, and much broader. 
 These pipes are frequently carved, in a curi- 
 ous manner. The pipe is connected with its 
 stem by a chain, generally made of brass 
 wire, which the Indians obtain from us, and 
 which hangs loosely from one to the other. 
 The stem is of wood, such as has a small 
 pith; and as their sacred stems are about 
 six feet in length, the manner in which they 
 extract this pith, deserves to be mentioned. 
 They use, for this purpose, a piece of sea- 
 soned hard wood. It is sharpened to a 
 point, at one end; and at a little distance 
 from this, it is reduced to a smaller size, 
 by a perpendicular cut around it, by which 
 a kind of head or barb is formed. By 
 pushing this in and drawing it out, the 
 pith is gradually extracted. The wood which 
 forms the handle to this barb, is reduced to 
 a very small size, as fast only as is required 
 by the length of the hole. Wooden dishes, 
 they construct, with crooked knives. The 
 women manifest much ingenuity and taste, 
 in the work which they execute, with porcu- 
 pine quills. The colour of these quills is 
 various, beautiful and durable; and the art 
 of dying them, is practised only by females. 
 To colour black, they make use of a choco- 
 late coloured stone, which they burn, and 
 pound fine, and put into a vessel, with the 
 bark of the hazel-nut tree. The vessel is 
 then filled with water, and into it the quills 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 329 
 
 are put, and the vessel is placed over a small 
 fire, where the liquor in it is permitted to 
 simmer, for two or three hours. The quills 
 are then taken out, and put on a board, to 
 dry, before a gentle fire. After they have 
 been dried and rubbed over with bear's oil, 
 they become of a beautiful shining black, 
 and are fit for use. To dye red or yellow, 
 they make use of certain roots, and the 
 moss which they find, on a species of the 
 fir tree. These are put, together with the 
 quills, into a vessel, filled with water, made 
 acid, by boiling currants or gooseberries, 
 &c. in it. The vessel is then covered tight, 
 and the liquid is made to simmer over the 
 fire, for three or four hours, after which the 
 quills are taken out and dried, and are fit 
 for use. Feathers, they also dye in a simi- 
 lar manner, and these colours never fade. 
 
 Many of the Indians, particularly those 
 on the west side of the Rocky Mountain, 
 who have not procured steels from us, for 
 the purpose of striking fire, produce it, by 
 placing one end of a small dry stick against 
 another piece of dry wood; and by rolling 
 it briskly between their two hands, the fric- 
 tion, in a short time communicates fire to 
 dry hay or touchwood, placed around it. 
 
 Among the Indians, there are poets, who 
 are also musicians. The person who com- 
 poses a song, does it by singing it over 
 alone, in the air which he designs shall ac- 
 company it ; and he repeats this exercise, 
 
330 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 until he has committed both sufficiently to 
 memory. After that, he frequently teaches 
 it to others. Songs are frequently composed 
 for particular occasions^ such as feasts, &c. 
 Among the Carriers, there are often several 
 competitors for this honour; and he who 
 composes the best song, is rewarded, while 
 the unsuccessful poets are treated with deri- 
 sion. The subjects of their songs are gener- 
 ally love and war, though they have some 
 which are ludicrous and obscene. They have 
 a great variety of songs ; and I have known 
 an Indian who could sing at least two hun- 
 dred, and each song had its peculiar air. 
 Female poets are not common among them. 
 Some of the women, however, are excellent 
 singers. 
 
 No two, of the fifteen tribes of Indians, 
 with whom I have been acquainted, speak 
 precisely the same language; but the lan- 
 guages of nine of them only, seem to be 
 radically different. There is only a variation 
 of dialect among the Crees, Sauteux and 
 Muscagoes. The same is true of the Chipe- 
 \<yans, Beaver Indians, Sicannies, Tacullies 
 and Nateotetains. The language spoken by 
 the Sauteux, Crees and Muscagoes is by far 
 the most copious and manly ; but that used 
 by the Assiniboins^ is the most harmonious 
 and elegant. 
 
 Every tribe has its particular tract of 
 country; and this is divided again, among 
 the several families, which compose the tribe. 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 331 
 
 Rivers, lakes and mountains, serve them as 
 boundaries; and the Hmits of the territory 
 which belongs to each family are as well 
 known by the tribe, as the lines which sep- 
 rate farms are, by the farmers, in the civil- 
 ized world. The Indians who reside in the 
 large plains, make no subdivisions of their 
 territory; for the wealth of their country 
 consists of buffaloes and wolves, which exist 
 in plenty, everywhere among them. But the 
 case is otherwise, with the inhabitants of the 
 woody countries. These people have nothing 
 with which to purchase their necessaries, ex- 
 cepting the skins of animals, which are valu- 
 able for their fur; and should they destroy 
 all these animals in one season, they would 
 cut off their means of subsistence. A pru- 
 dent Indian, whose lands are not well stocked 
 with animals, kills only what are absolutely 
 necessary to procure such articles as he can- 
 not well dispense with. 
 
 The foregoing account of the Natives, hav- 
 ing a principal reference to the tribes on the 
 east side of the Rocky Mountain, it may be 
 proper, in concluding it, to make a few gen- 
 eral remarks on the country which they 
 inhabit. 
 
 That part of it which lies between the 
 44th and the 5 2d degrees of north latitude, 
 is a plain or prairie country, almost wholly 
 destitute of timber, of any kind. It is, in 
 general, sufficiently dry for any kind of cul- », 
 tivation; and is covered with grass, which ' 
 
332 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 commonly grows to the height of from six 
 inches to a foot, though in some marshy 
 places it is much higher. This grass fur- 
 nishes food for innumerable herds of buf- 
 faloes, which are constantly roving about, 
 from place to place, followed by thousands 
 of wolves, and many grey and black bears, 
 that are always on the watch, for favourable 
 opportunities to fall upon and devour them. 
 The grey bear, on account of his strength 
 and ferocity, may well be denominated th© 
 monarch of the forest ; and should he at any 
 time find an hundred wolves or more, feed- 
 ing on the carcase of the buffaloe, the sight 
 of him would cause them all to retire, with 
 all the humility and submission of conscious 
 weakness, and he would be permitted to 
 make his meal, at his leisure and in quiet- 
 ness. 
 
 The country lying between the 5 2d and 
 the 70th degree of north latitude, may be 
 denominated mountainous. Between its ele- 
 vated parts, however, there are valleys and- 
 plains, of considerable extent, and which are 
 covered with timber, of a small growth, 
 more than one fourth part of which is the 
 spruce fir. The other kinds of timber are 
 aspin, poplar, birch, hemlock, spruce, cedar, 
 willow, and a little pine. Much of this coun- 
 try, in its less elevated parts, is covered 
 with large rocks and stones, with so thin 
 a coat of earth upon them, that it could 
 not be cultivated. I am of opinion, however, 
 
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 333 
 
 that one fourth, if not one third part, of 
 the whole of this great extent of country, 
 might be cultivated to advantage. The soil, 
 in general, is tolerably good; and, in many 
 places, is not exceeded in richness, by any 
 part of North America. I think it probable, 
 that as much as one sixth part of the whole 
 of this country, is covered with water. The 
 great number of large lakes, which are scat- 
 tered over it, and of noble streams, which 
 pass through it, afford a water communi- 
 cation, in almost every direction. 
 
 As this country is so extensive, it is natu- 
 ral to suppose, that the climate is various. 
 In all parts it is considerably cold. In 
 latitude 54® or 55*^ the mercury, for 
 several successive days, in the month of 
 January, is as low as 30 or 32 degrees be- 
 low zero. There are not, however, more 
 than ten or twelve days, during a winter, 
 that are so severely cold. The summers are 
 suflBciently warm and long, to bring most 
 kinds of grain and vegetables to perfection. 
 Indian corn will never ripen farther north, 
 than about latitude 53*^. 
 
 The following fact may be Interesting to 
 some persons, as perhaps no similar dis- 
 covery has been made, equally far north. 
 In the summer of 1816 there was found, on 
 the margin of a small stream that falls into 
 Peace River, in about the 56th degree of 
 north latitude, and the 118th of west lon- 
 gitude, a part of the thigh bone of a Mam- 
 
334 ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 moth, which was about eighteen inches, in 
 length, and which weighed twenty eight 
 pounds. During that summer, the waters 
 rose very high, in all the streams in that 
 region; and when they subsided, the banks 
 in many places, fell in. It was in such a 
 place, that this bone was found. It was 
 sent to Canada, and I believe, thence to 
 England. 
 
A SPECIMEN 
 
 OP THE 
 
 CREE OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE, 
 
 WHICH IS SPOKEN, BY AT LEAST THREE FOURTHS 
 
 OF THE INDIANS OF THE NORTH WEST 
 
 COUNTRY, ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAIN. 
 
 Good Spirit 
 
 Evil Spirit 
 
 Man 
 
 Woman 
 
 Young man 
 
 Young woman 
 
 Infant 
 
 Head 
 
 Forehead 
 
 Cheek 
 
 Chin 
 
 Hair 
 
 Eye 
 
 Nose 
 
 Kit ch-e-mon-e-t o o 
 
 Mut ch-e-m on-e-t o o 
 
 A-ye-nu 
 
 Es-qui 
 
 Os-kin-e-gew 
 
 Os-kin-e-gis-qui 
 
 A-wa-sis 
 
 Is-te-gwen 
 
 Mis-kaw-tick 
 
 Mon-o-wy 
 
 Ta-lis-kun 
 
 Mis-te-ky-ah 
 
 Mis-kee-sick 
 
 Mis-kee-won 
 
S66 
 
 SPECIMEN OF THE CREE 
 
 Nostril 
 
 Mouth 
 
 Tooth 
 
 Tongue 
 
 Beard 
 
 Brains 
 
 Ear 
 
 Neck 
 
 Throat 
 
 Arms 
 
 Hands or fingers 
 
 Thumb 
 
 Nail 
 
 Side 
 
 Back 
 
 Belly 
 
 Thigh 
 
 Body 
 
 Knee 
 
 Leg 
 
 Foot 
 
 Heart 
 
 Spirit or soul 
 
 Father 
 
 Mother 
 
 Son 
 
 Daughter 
 
 Brother (elder) 
 
 Sister (elder) 
 
 Brother (younger) 
 
 Sister (younger) 
 
 Grand Father 
 
 Grand Mother 
 
 0-tay-e-cum 
 
 Mee-toon 
 
 Mee-pit 
 
 0-tay-e-nee 
 
 May-ist-won 
 
 We-it-tip 
 
 Me-ta-wa-ki 
 
 Me-qui-yow 
 
 Me-koo-ta-gun 
 
 Mis-pe-toon 
 
 Me-chee-chee 
 
 Me-se-chee-chon 
 
 Ms-cus-see 
 
 Ose-pe-ki 
 
 Mis-pis-quon 
 
 Mot-ti 
 
 Me-pwam 
 
 Me-yow 
 
 Mitch-e-quon 
 
 Mis-kate 
 
 Me-sit 
 
 Me-tay 
 
 Me-cha-chake 
 
 0-ta-we 
 
 E-ka-we 
 
 E-qus-sis 
 
 E-ta-nis 
 
 E-stays 
 
 E-miss 
 
 E-shim 
 
 E-mo-shome 
 0-kome 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 337 
 
 Uncle 
 
 Aunt 
 
 Nephew 
 
 Niece 
 
 Father in law 
 
 Mother in law 
 
 Brother in law 
 
 Sister in law 
 
 Friend 
 
 Husband 
 
 Wife 
 
 Old man 
 
 Old woman 
 
 Chief 
 
 Thief 
 
 Coat 
 
 Shirt 
 
 Breech cloth 
 
 Leggin 
 
 Garter 
 
 Shoe 
 
 Hat or cap 
 
 Handkerchief 
 
 Mittens (a pair) 
 
 Petticoat 
 
 Bracelet 
 
 Ring 
 
 Ear knobs 
 
 Comb 
 
 Needle 
 
 Pin ( headed needle ) 
 
 Scissors 
 
 Blanket 
 
 22 
 
 0-ko-mis 
 
 E-to-sis 
 
 E-to-sim 
 
 E-to-sim-es-qui 
 
 E-sis 
 
 E-se-goose 
 
 Ish-taw 
 
 E-tim 
 
 E-wich-i-wa-gun 
 
 Ne-na-bem 
 
 E-che-ma-gun 
 
 Kis-a-ye-new 
 
 No-to-ca-ow 
 
 0-ke-mow 
 
 Ke-mo-tisk 
 
 Pis-is-cow-e-gun 
 
 Pe-puck-e-wy-un 
 
 As-si-an 
 
 Me-tass 
 
 Sis-ca-pis-soon 
 
 Mos-ca-sin 
 
 As-to-tin 
 
 Ta-bis-ka-gun 
 
 Us-tis-uck 
 
 Kis-ke-sa-ki 
 
 Us-ton 
 
 Us-ton-is 
 
 Ta-be-ta-soon ^ 
 
 Se-ca-hoon 
 
 S^-bo-ne-gun 
 
 Is-te-goine Sa-bo-ne-gun 
 
 Pus-co-ma-to-in 
 
 Wa-bo-e-un 
 
338 
 
 SPECIMEN OF THE CREE 
 
 Gown 
 
 Horse 
 
 Buffaloe 
 
 Ferret 
 
 Skunk 
 
 Elk 
 
 Moose 
 
 Carriboo 
 
 Beaver 
 
 Wolverine 
 
 Squirrel 
 
 Mink 
 
 Otter 
 
 Wolf 
 
 Hare 
 
 Martin 
 
 Bear 
 
 Fisher 
 
 Lynx 
 
 Hog 
 
 Porcupine 
 
 Fox 
 
 Musk rat 
 
 Cat 
 
 Mouse 
 
 Meat 
 
 Dog 
 
 Bitch 
 
 Eagle 
 
 Duck 
 
 Crow 
 
 Swan 
 
 Pheasant 
 
 Pa-to-nis 
 
 Mish-ta-tim 
 
 Moos-toosh 
 
 Se-goose 
 
 Se-hawk 
 
 A-was-kis 
 
 Moose-wa 
 
 At-tick 
 
 A-misk 
 
 Ke-qua-a-kisk 
 
 An-nick-o-chass 
 
 At-cha-kass 
 
 Ne-kick 
 
 My-e-gun 
 
 Wa-poos 
 
 Wa-pis-ton 
 
 Musk-quaw 
 
 0-chake 
 
 Pe-su 
 
 Ko-koosh 
 
 Ka-quaw 
 
 Muck-ca-sis 
 
 Wa-chesk 
 
 Ka-sha-kess 
 
 A-pe-co-sik 
 
 Wee-as 
 
 At-tim 
 
 Kis-ke-sis 
 
 Me-ke-su 
 
 See-sip 
 
 Ka-ka-ku 
 
 Wa-pis-see 
 
 0-kis-kew 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 339 
 
 Bird 
 
 Pe-a-sis 
 
 Outard 
 
 Nis-ka 
 
 White goose 
 
 Why-why 
 
 Grey goose 
 
 Eitch-a-ca-pi-sis 
 
 Partridge 
 
 Pe-yew 
 
 Water hen 
 
 Se-kip 
 
 Pigeon 
 
 0-ma-mee 
 
 ^gg 
 
 Wa-wa 
 
 Pike 
 
 I-e-ne-ke-no-see 
 
 Carp 
 
 Na-ma-be 
 
 White fish 
 
 At-tick cum-mick 
 
 Pickerel 
 
 0-cow 
 
 Fish (in general) 
 
 Ke-no-see 
 
 Fish roes 
 
 Wa-quock 
 
 Fish scales 
 
 Wa-wa-ki 
 
 Trout 
 
 Na-ma-goose 
 
 Frog 
 
 I-ick 
 
 Wasp 
 
 A-mo 
 
 Turtle 
 
 Mis-ca-n^ck 
 
 Snake 
 
 Ke-na-bick 
 
 Rattle snake 
 
 Si-si-qua ke-na-bick 
 
 Toad 
 
 Pe-pe-quot-ta-tu 
 
 Lizzard 
 
 0-sick-ke-ask 
 
 Owl 
 
 Oh-ho 
 
 Fire steel 
 
 Pe-wa-bisk Ap-pit 
 
 Fire wood 
 
 Mis-tick 
 
 Cradle 
 
 Wa-wa-bis-soon 
 
 Dagger 
 
 T^-cuch-e-gun 
 
 Lance 
 
 Se-ma-gun 
 
 Bow 
 
 A-cha-pee 
 
 Arrow 
 
 At-toos 
 
 Fish hook 
 
 Qu a s- qui-pit ch-e-gun 
 
 Axe 
 
 Chee-ki-e-gun 
 
340 
 
 SPECIMEN OF THE CREE 
 
 Hoe Pe-mich-e chee-ki-e-gun 
 
 Net I-ap-pee 
 
 Tree ( wood standing 
 
 upright) Mis-tick A-che-mus-so 
 
 Paddle 
 
 Canoe 
 
 Birch bark 
 
 Bark 
 
 Touch wood 
 
 Gun Flint 
 
 Grass 
 
 Leaf ( of a tree ) 
 
 Raspberries 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 Whortleberries 
 
 Choke berries 
 
 Gooseberries 
 
 Grapes 
 
 Ashes 
 
 Fire 
 
 Current 
 
 Rapid 
 
 Winter 
 
 Spring 
 
 Summer 
 
 Autumn 
 
 Island 
 
 Lake 
 
 River 
 
 Sun 
 
 Moon (night sun) 
 
 Stars 
 
 Sky 
 
 A-buy 
 
 0-see 
 
 Was-qui 
 
 Wy-a-kisk 
 
 Poos-sa-gun 
 
 Chak-is-say-e-gun 
 
 Mos-ko-se-ah 
 
 Ne-pee-ah 
 
 I-os-cun-nuck 
 
 0-ta-me-nah 
 
 I-e-ne-me-nah 
 
 Tuck-quy-me-ne-na-nah 
 
 Sa-sa-bo-min-uck 
 
 Sho-min-is-uck 
 
 Pe-co 
 
 Es-quit-tu 
 
 Kis-se-che-wln 
 
 Pow-is-tick 
 
 Pe-poon 
 
 Me-os-kum-ick 
 
 Ne-pin 
 
 Tuck-wa-gin 
 
 Me-nis-tick 
 
 Sa-ki-e-gun 
 
 Se-pee 
 
 Pe-sim 
 
 Tip-is-co pe-sim 
 
 At-tack I 
 
 Kee-sick 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 341 
 
 Clouds 
 
 Ma-ma-musk- wow 
 
 Thunder 
 
 Pe-is-su 
 
 Lightning 
 
 Wa - wa s-sis-quit-a-pi-u 
 
 Rain 
 
 Ke-me-won 
 
 Snow 
 
 Mis-poon 
 
 Hail 
 
 Sa-sa-gun 
 
 Calm 
 
 I-was-tin 
 
 Day light 
 
 Wa-bun 
 
 Morning 
 
 Ke-ke-Jape 
 
 Day 
 
 Ke-se-cow 
 
 Night 
 
 Tip-is-cow 
 
 Noon ( half the day ] 
 
 ) A-be-tow Ke-se-cow 
 
 Sun setting 
 
 Pung-kis-se-mo 
 
 Midnight 
 
 A-be-tow Tip-is-cow 
 
 Snow 
 
 Ko-nah 
 
 Drift 
 
 Pe-won 
 
 Ice 
 
 Mis-co-mi 
 
 Frost 
 
 Ya-ya-co-tln 
 
 Dew 
 
 A-co-sa-pa-ow 
 
 Water 
 
 Ne-pee 
 
 World 
 
 Mis-si- wa-as-kee 
 
 Mountain 
 
 Wa-chee 
 
 Sea 
 
 Kitch-e-ga-ming 
 
 Portage 
 
 0-ne-gape 
 
 Rivulet 
 
 Se-pe-sis 
 
 Sand 
 
 Ya-cow 
 
 Earth 
 
 As-kee 
 
 Heat 
 
 Ke-se-ta-oW;, or Ke-jas- 
 
 
 ta-ow 
 
 Tomorrow 
 
 Wa-bunk 
 
 Yesterday 
 
 0-ta-ca-sin 
 
 To day 
 
 A-nouch ke-se-cow 
 
 Bone 
 
 Ose-kun 
 
342 
 
 SPECI^IEN OF THE CREE 
 
 Broth 
 
 Provision 
 
 Feast 
 
 Grease or oil 
 
 Marrow fat 
 
 Marrow 
 
 Sinew 
 
 liodge or tent 
 
 Bed 
 
 Door 
 
 Dish 
 
 Spoon or ladle 
 
 Plate 
 
 Knife 
 
 Fork 
 
 Kettle 
 
 Tea kettle 
 
 Sack or bag 
 
 Trunk 
 
 Table 
 
 Chair 
 
 Fort or house 
 
 Floor 
 
 Window 
 
 Chimney 
 
 Cupboard 
 
 Keg 
 
 Sledge 
 
 Cincture or belt 
 
 Socks 
 
 Cloth 
 
 Thread 
 
 Smoking bag 
 
 Mich-e-ma-boi 
 
 Me-chim 
 
 We-ko-ka-ow 
 
 Pe-me 
 
 Ose-kun-e-pe-me 
 
 We-ne 
 
 As-tis 
 
 Me-ke-wape 
 
 Ne-pa-win 
 
 Es-qua-tem 
 
 We-a-gun 
 
 A-me quen 
 
 Na-puck-e-a -gun 
 
 Mo-cum-mon 
 
 Chis-ti-e-gun 
 
 As-kick 
 
 Se-sip as-kick 
 
 Mus-ca-moote 
 
 Mis-tick-o-wis 
 
 Mit-te-sou-win-a-tic 
 
 Ta-e-tup-pe-win 
 
 Was-ky-e-gun 
 
 A-nas-cun 
 
 Was-sa-e-mon 
 
 Cou-ta-na-bisk 
 
 A-cou-cha-gun 
 
 Muck-kuck 
 
 Ta-bin-ask 
 
 Pa-qua-ta-hoon 
 
 As-se-gun 
 
 Mon-ne-too-wa-gen 
 
 As-se-bape 
 
 Ap-pit 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 343 
 
 Portage sling 
 
 Powder 
 
 Balls 
 
 Shot 
 
 Powder horn 
 
 Shot bag 
 
 Gun 
 
 Ramrod 
 
 Gun case 
 
 Pistol 
 
 Steel trap 
 
 Grave 
 
 Grave yard 
 
 Spirits 
 
 Wine 
 
 Milk 
 
 Breasts 
 
 Butter 
 
 Flour or bread 
 
 Indian corn 
 
 Potato 
 
 Turnip 
 
 Onion 
 
 Carrot 
 
 Tea or medicine wa- 
 ter 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Wild rice 
 
 Glass or mirror 
 
 General or great 
 chief 
 
 Soldier 
 
 Ap-pe-can 
 
 Kus-ke-ta 
 
 Mo-sus-se-nu 
 
 Nis-cus-se-ne-uck 
 
 Pa-che-pa-quon 
 
 Pa-tus-se-non 
 
 Paw-skis-se-gun 
 
 Se-se-quit-is-ca-we-^- 
 
 gun-a-tick 
 As-pick-e-na-gun 
 Paw-skis-se-gun-is 
 Pe-wa-bisk-won-a-e-gun 
 Ni-e-now 
 A-qua-os-cun 
 Squit-te-wa-bo 
 Sho-min-a-bo 
 To-toos-a-bo 
 To-toos 
 
 To-toos-a-bo pe-me 
 Pa-qui-se-gun 
 Mun-da-nin-uck 
 Aske-pwow-wa 
 0-te-se-kan 
 We-cha-kus-ka-se 
 Os-kate-ask 
 
 Mus-ca-kee-w^-bo 
 Se-se-bas-quit 
 Mus-co-se-me-nah 
 Wfi-bim-oon 
 
 Kitch-e-o-ki-mow 
 Se-ma-gun-is 
 
344 
 
 SPECIMEN OF THE CREE 
 
 Home 
 
 Iron 
 
 Money 
 
 Book or letter 
 
 Medicine 
 
 Lover 
 
 Pipe 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 Weed for smoking 
 
 Part ( of a thing ) 
 
 Slave 
 
 Orphan 
 
 Peninsula 
 
 Relation 
 
 Ship 
 
 Sword 
 
 Stone 
 
 Store 
 
 ^Tiite earth 
 Tatler 
 Liar 
 
 Bad man 
 Good man 
 Earthquake 
 
 Track (of the feet) 
 
 Road or path 
 
 Whirlwind 
 
 Good weather 
 
 Bad weather 
 
 Male 
 
 Female 
 
 E-ke-nake 
 
 Pe-wa-bisk 
 
 So-ne-ah 
 
 Mish-e-my-e-gun 
 
 Mus-ca-kee 
 
 Jim-is-sim 
 
 Os-poa-gun 
 
 Chis-ta-mow 
 
 A-ch a -c a-che-puck- wo w 
 
 Puck-ee 
 
 A-wa-kun 
 
 Ke-watch-e-wa-sis 
 
 Kis-is-tig-guy-ow 
 
 E-to-tame 
 
 Na-pe-quon 
 
 She-maw-gun 
 
 As-se-ne 
 
 Tut-tow-o-way-gum- 
 
 mick 
 Wa-but-toon-isk 
 O-zom-e-toon-ew 
 Ka-ke-as-ku 
 Much-e-pe-ma-tis-su 
 Me-u-pe-ma-tis-su 
 An-ne-mus-kum-ke-py- 
 
 you 
 I-a-sa-se-ta-you 
 Mays-ke-now 
 Cus-tin 
 Me-u-ke-si-cow 
 Mut-cha-ke-si-cow 
 Na-bew 
 O-ne-chji-nee 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 345 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 A-quos-quon 
 
 Windy 
 
 E-o-tin 
 
 North 
 
 Ke-wa-tin 
 
 South 
 
 Sa-win-oke 
 
 East 
 
 Cos-kow-kos-take 
 
 West 
 
 Ke-wa-noke 
 
 Straight 
 
 Qui-esk 
 
 Crooked 
 
 Wa-kow 
 
 Red 
 
 Me-quow 
 
 Blue 
 
 Che-ba-tock-wow 
 
 Yellow 
 
 0-saw-wow 
 
 Green 
 
 As-ke-tuck-wow 
 
 Black 
 
 Kus-ke-ta-wow 
 
 Ugly 
 
 My-a-te-su 
 
 Handsome 
 
 Cut-e-wa-se-su 
 
 Beautiful 
 
 Me-u-nog-won 
 
 Deaf 
 
 Na-mo-ta-wa-cow 
 
 Good natured 
 
 Me-wa-tick-e-su 
 
 Pregnant 
 
 Pwow-wew 
 
 Fat or fleshy 
 
 We-in-no 
 
 Large 
 
 Me-chus~ca-wa-ke-su 
 
 Small 
 
 Up-pe-se-se-su 
 
 Short 
 
 Che-mis-se-su 
 
 Tall 
 
 Me-sick-e-tu 
 
 Merry 
 
 Me-wa-tick-won 
 
 Melancholy 
 
 Pe-kis-ca-tum 
 
 Long 
 
 •Keen- wow 
 
 Strong 
 
 Mus-ca-wow 
 
 Weak 
 
 Na-ma mus-ca-wow 
 
 Cowardly 
 
 Sa-koo-ta-ow 
 
 Brave 
 
 So-ca-te-ow 
 
 Lean 
 
 Se-kut-chu 
 
 Foolish 
 
 Ke-squiow 
 
346 
 
 SPECIMEN OF THE CREE 
 
 Sensible 
 
 I-e-ne-su 
 
 Stiff 
 
 Se-ta-wow 
 
 Sick 
 
 A-quis-su 
 
 Dead 
 
 Ne-poo 
 
 Alive 
 
 Pe-ma-tis-su 
 
 Miserable 
 
 Kit-te-ma-ga-su 
 
 Upper 
 
 Is-pe-mink 
 
 Lower 
 
 Tup-pa-sis 
 
 All 
 
 Kuck-e-ow 
 
 Half 
 
 A-be-tow 
 
 Drunken 
 
 Ke-squi-ba-ow 
 
 English 
 
 A-qui-as-se-wock 
 
 French 
 
 Wa-mis-t o-go-she- wock 
 
 Equal or alike 
 
 Ta-bis-kootch 
 
 Far off 
 
 Wy-yow 
 
 Nigh 
 
 Kis-se-wake 
 
 Few or little 
 
 Up-pa-sis 
 
 Fatigued 
 
 Ty-is-co-sin 
 
 Good 
 
 Me-wa-shin 
 
 Bad 
 
 My-a-ton 
 
 Avaricious 
 
 Sa-sa-kis-su 
 
 Generous 
 
 May-ye-kis-ku 
 
 Greedy 
 
 Ka-shock-ca-ow 
 
 Hidden 
 
 Kas-so 
 
 Lazy 
 
 Kit-te-mew 
 
 Lame 
 
 Mus-kip-pi-you 
 
 Much 
 
 Me-chet 
 
 Flat 
 
 Nah-puck-ow 
 
 Round 
 
 Wa-way-ye-you 
 
 Quick 
 
 Ka-ke-e-pe 
 
 That 
 
 A-o-co 
 
 This 
 
 Muck-o-mao 
 
 Too little 
 
 0-som-up-pe-sis 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 347 
 
 Too much 
 
 Deep 
 
 Shallow 
 
 Frightful 
 
 Wicked 
 
 Difficult 
 
 First 
 
 Behind 
 
 Last 
 
 More 
 
 Better 
 
 Good scented 
 
 Each 
 
 Other 
 
 My own 
 
 Your own 
 
 His or her own 
 
 Their own 
 
 Our own 
 
 We? 
 
 Who? 
 
 What? 
 
 I am angry 
 
 I fear 
 
 To rejoice 
 
 To hear 
 
 To see 
 
 To smell 
 
 To taste 
 
 To feel 
 
 To come in 
 
 To sing 
 
 To halloo 
 
 0-som-me-chet 
 
 Tee-mew 
 
 Pake-wow 
 
 Sa-sis-ke-na-guon 
 
 My-a-che-ta-ow 
 
 I-ye-mon 
 
 Ne-kan 
 
 0-take 
 
 Squi-atch 
 
 Me-nah 
 
 Ka-me-wa-shin 
 
 We-cum-a-gun 
 
 PA-pa-uck 
 
 Pa-toosh 
 
 Nene-ty-un 
 
 Kene-ty-un 
 
 We-ah-one-ty-un 
 
 We-ah-wow-one-ty-un 
 
 Nene-ty-un-e-non 
 
 Ne-on 
 
 A-way-nah 
 
 Ka-qui 
 
 Ne-kis-se-wa-sin 
 
 Ne-koos-ta-chin 
 
 Me-wa-tum 
 
 Pa-tum 
 
 Wa-ba-tum 
 
 Me-a-tum 
 
 Goo-chis-tum 
 
 Goo-te-num 
 
 Pe-to-ca 
 
 Ne-cum-moon 
 
 Ta-boi 
 
348 
 
 SPECIMEN OF THE CREE 
 
 To whistle 
 
 To weep 
 
 To laugh 
 
 To sigh 
 
 To arrire 
 
 To depart 
 
 Assist me 
 
 To beat 
 
 To believe 
 
 To rattle 
 
 To suck 
 
 To puke 
 
 To carry 
 
 I am cold 
 
 To take courage 
 
 To dance 
 
 To jump 
 
 To slide 
 
 To run 
 
 To walk 
 
 To ride ( horseback ) 
 
 To finish 
 
 To starve 
 
 To fall 
 
 To strike fire 
 
 To find 
 
 To loose 
 
 To paddle 
 
 To give 
 
 To take 
 
 To hate 
 
 To keep 
 
 To know 
 
 Ques-qui-su 
 
 Ma -too 
 
 Pa-pee 
 
 Ma-ca-ta-tum 
 
 Tuck-a-shin 
 
 Che-boi-ta-ow 
 
 Ne-sho-cum-a-win 
 
 0-tom-me-wow 
 
 Ta-boi-tum 
 
 Se-se-quin 
 
 No-nu 
 
 Pa-cum-moon 
 
 Ni-och-e-ga-ow 
 
 Ne-cow-a-chin 
 
 Ye-ag-wa-me-se 
 
 Ne-me-too 
 
 Quas-quit-ta 
 
 So-squotch-e-wew 
 
 Pe-me-pa-tow 
 
 Pe-mo-ta-ow 
 
 Tay-tup-pew 
 
 Po-ne-ton 
 
 Ka-wa-cut-tis-so-wock 
 
 Punk-a-sin 
 
 Se-ka-ta-ow 
 
 Mis-cum 
 
 Won-e-ton 
 
 Pim-is-cow 
 
 Me-yow 
 
 0-te-nah 
 
 Much-a-ye-mow 
 
 Kun-ne-wa-e-ten 
 
 Kis-ka-e-ta-gwun 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 349 
 
 To leare 
 
 To love 
 
 To go to bed 
 
 To arise from bed 
 
 To sit down ■ 
 
 To get up 
 
 To marry 
 
 To play 
 
 To make peace 
 
 To make war 
 
 To pray 
 
 To take notice 
 
 To respect 
 
 To sail 
 
 To steal 
 
 To sleep 
 
 To talk 
 
 To lie 
 
 To go 
 
 To lend 
 
 To groan 
 
 To beat 
 
 To cut 
 
 To cover 
 
 To dispute 
 
 To give 
 
 To do 
 
 To tie 
 
 To unite 
 
 To sew 
 
 To sit down 
 
 To fall 
 
 To work 
 
 Nuck-a-tum 
 
 Sa-ke-how 
 
 Ka-wish-e-mo 
 
 0-nis-caw 
 
 Ap-pee 
 
 Pus-se-co 
 
 Wee-ke-mow 
 
 Ma-te-way 
 
 We-tus-ke-to-wuck 
 
 Na-t o-py-e- wuck 
 
 I-ye-me-how 
 
 Cun-ne-wa-bum 
 
 Ke-tay-e-mow 
 
 A-cus-tim-moon 
 
 Ke-mo-tu 
 
 Ne-pow 
 
 A-che-moon 
 
 Ke-as-ku 
 
 Ke-to-tain 
 
 Ow-we-hin 
 
 Ma-ma-pin-ow 
 
 0-tom-me-wew 
 
 Kis-ke-sah 
 
 A-quoon-e-hah 
 
 Ke-ka-to-wuck 
 
 May-gu 
 
 Oo-she-half 
 
 Tuck-oop-e-tah 
 
 Ap-pu-co-nah 
 
 Kus-ke-qu£i-so 
 
 Up-pu 
 
 Pun-ga-sin 
 
 0-se-che-ga-ow 
 
350 
 
 SPECIMEN OF THE CREE 
 
 To kill 
 
 To sell 
 
 To come 
 
 Always 
 
 Because 
 
 Bj and bye 
 
 Doubtless 
 
 Formerly 
 
 Here 
 
 How 
 
 How many 
 
 Immediately 
 
 Lately 
 
 Never 
 
 No 
 
 Yes 
 
 Not yet 
 
 Not at all 
 
 Good for nothing 
 
 There 
 
 Truly 
 
 Together 
 
 Wliere 
 
 Yet 
 
 Oh 
 
 Now and then 
 
 Sometimes 
 
 Seldom 
 
 Thank you 
 
 What is that? 
 
 WTiat now? 
 
 Who is there? 
 
 Ne-pa-how 
 
 Ut-ta-wa-ow 
 
 Us-tom-e-tay 
 
 Ka-ke-ca 
 
 A-o-co-chee 
 
 Pitch-is-qua 
 
 Mos-kootch 
 
 Gy-ass 
 
 0-taw 
 
 Ta-ne-say 
 
 Ta-ne-tut-to 
 
 Ka-qui-ah-ho 
 
 Gy-ass-an-e-watch 
 
 Na-mow-we-katch 
 
 Na-maw 
 
 Ah-hah 
 
 Na-mas-qua 
 
 Na-maw-waw-watch 
 
 Na-maw-ca~qui-me-wa- 
 
 sin 
 A-quo-tah 
 Ta-boi 
 
 Ta-bis-cootch 
 Ta-ne-tay 
 Ka-a-bitch 
 Ah! 
 
 I-os-cow 
 
 We-na-cum-m^ 
 Ka-qui-o-ko 
 Ta-ne-me-ne-kick 
 A-way-na-nah 
 
OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE. 
 
 351 
 
 Get out of the way 
 What is your name? 
 Where areyou going? 
 I wish to depart 
 What do I hear? 
 
 Will you trade? 
 
 A-wis-se-tay 
 
 Ta-ne-tick-o-way-on 
 
 Ta-ne-ta ke-we-to-tain 
 
 Ne-we-ke-won 
 
 Ka - qui - ka-pa-tum- 
 
 mon 
 Ke- we-ut-t a- won-chee 
 
NUMERICAL TERMS 
 
 OF THE CEEES OE KNISTENEUX. 
 
 One 
 
 Pa-uck 
 
 Two 
 
 Ne-sho 
 
 Three 
 
 Nish-to 
 
 Four 
 
 Nay-o 
 
 Five 
 
 Nay-ah-nun 
 
 Six 
 
 Ni-co-twa-sick 
 
 Seven 
 
 Ta-boo-coop 
 
 Eight 
 
 I-a-na-na-on 
 
 Nine 
 
 Ka-gate me-ta-tut 
 
 Ten 
 
 Me-ta-tut 
 
 Eleven ( and 
 
 one 
 
 more) 
 
 Me-ta-tut pa-uck o sawp 
 
 Twelve 
 
 Me-ta-tut ne-sho sawp 
 
 Thirteen 
 
 Me-ta-tut nish-to sawp 
 
 Fourteen 
 
 Me-ta-tut nay-o sawp 
 
 Fifteen 
 
 Me-ta-tut nay-ah-nun o 
 
 
 sawp 
 
 Sixteen 
 
 Me-ta-tut ne-co-twa-sick 
 
 
 o sawp 
 
 Seventeen 
 
 Me-ta-tut ta-boo-coop 
 
 
 tah-to sawp 
 
 Eighteen 
 
 Me-ta-tut i-a-na-na-ow 
 
 
 tah-to sawp 
 
TACULJ.Y OR CARRIER TONGUE. 353 
 
 Nineteen 
 
 Ka-gate me-ta-tut tah- 
 
 
 to sawp 
 
 Twenty 
 
 Ne-sit-te-no 
 
 Twenty one 
 
 Ne-sit-te-no pu-uck o 
 
 
 sawp 
 
 Twenty two &c. 
 
 Ne-sit-te-no ne-sho sawp 
 
 Thirty 
 
 Nish-to mit-te-no 
 
 Forty 
 
 Nay-o mit-te-no 
 
 Fifty 
 
 Nay-ah-nun o mit-te-no 
 
 Sixty 
 
 Ne-co-twa-sick o tut-to 
 
 
 mit-te-no 
 
 Seventy 
 
 Ta-boo-coop o tut-to 
 
 
 mit-te-no 
 
 Eighty 
 
 I-a-na-na-ow o tut-to 
 
 
 mit-te-no 
 
 Ninety 
 
 Ka-gate me-ta-tut o 
 
 
 mit-te-no 
 
 Hundred 
 
 Me-ta-tut-to mit-te-no 
 
 One thousand 
 
 Me-ta-tut o tut-to mit- 
 
 
 te-no 
 
 A SPECIMEN OF 
 
 THE TACULLY OE CARRIER TONGUE, 
 
 Man 
 
 Ten-nee 
 
 Woman 
 
 Cha-ca 
 
 Young man 
 
 Chilk 
 
 Infant 
 
 Chu-tun 
 
 Head 
 
 Pit-sa 
 
 Eyes 
 
 0-now 
 
 23 
 
354 SPECIMEN OF THE TACULLY 
 
 Hair 
 
 Ote-zega 
 
 Nose 
 
 Pa-nin-chis 
 
 Teeth 
 
 Oh-goo 
 
 Tongue 
 
 Tsoo-la 
 
 Ears 
 
 0-cho 
 
 Hands 
 
 0-la 
 
 Belly 
 
 0-put 
 
 Legs 
 
 0-ca-chin 
 
 Knees 
 
 0-kate 
 
 Feet 
 
 0-ca 
 
 Nails 
 
 E-la-ki 
 
 Grand father 
 
 Ut-che-yan 
 
 Grand mother 
 
 Ut-soo 
 
 Father 
 
 Ap-pa 
 
 Mother 
 
 Un-nung-cool 
 
 Son 
 
 E-yaze 
 
 Daughter 
 
 E-a-cha 
 
 Brother 
 
 E-chill 
 
 Sister 
 
 E-taze 
 
 Nephew 
 
 Quaze 
 
 Grand child 
 
 E-chi 
 
 Husband 
 
 E-ki 
 
 Wife 
 
 Ay-eye 
 
 Aunt 
 
 A-ki 
 
 Old man 
 
 0-yun 
 
 Blood 
 
 Sko 
 
 Path or road 
 
 Tee 
 
 Chief 
 
 Me-u-tee 
 
 Excrement 
 
 Chou 
 
 Urine 
 
 Al-luze 
 
 Coat 
 
 Chute 
 
 Breech cloth 
 
 Chon 
 
 ^ Leggins 
 
 Ca-chy 
 
OR CARRIER TONGUE. 
 
 355 
 
 Shoes 
 
 Kis-coot 
 
 Hat or cap 
 
 Tcha 
 
 Handkerchief 
 
 Za-zo 
 
 Mittens 
 
 Pat 
 
 Petticoat 
 
 Cha-ca-chute 
 
 Bracelet 
 
 Nal-ton 
 
 Comb 
 
 Chil-cho 
 
 Ring 
 
 Ne-la-ta-ah 
 
 Needle 
 
 A-a-bate-so 
 
 Scissors 
 
 Clay-yee 
 
 Blanket 
 
 A-a-pi 
 
 Frock or robe 
 
 Nal-tay 
 
 Goat or sheep 
 
 Spye 
 
 Ferret 
 
 Nah-pye 
 
 Moose 
 
 Ten-nee 
 
 Cariboo 
 
 0-chee 
 
 Beaver 
 
 Cha 
 
 Otter 
 
 A-bay 
 
 Hare 
 
 Kah 
 
 Martin 
 
 Chin-nee 
 
 Bear 
 
 Suss 
 
 Lynx 
 
 Was-say 
 
 Porcupine 
 
 Cho 
 
 Musk rat 
 
 Cha-kate 
 
 Fisher 
 
 Chin-ne-cho 
 
 Mouse 
 
 Ten-ne-tay 
 
 Meat or flesh 
 
 Ut-son 
 
 Dog 
 
 Cling 
 
 Bitch 
 
 Clee-chay 
 
 Crow 
 
 Tate-sun 
 
 Swan 
 
 Chin-cho 
 
 Outard 
 
 Hok 
 
 Partridge 
 
 Tee! 
 
356 SPECIMEN OF THE TACULLY 
 
 Water lien 
 
 Eggs 
 
 Loon 
 
 St argeon 
 
 White fish 
 
 Fish (in general) 
 
 Fish roes 
 
 Trout 
 
 Salmon 
 
 Fire steel 
 
 Wood or tree 
 
 Dagger 
 
 Bow 
 
 Arrow 
 
 Axe 
 
 Net 
 
 Paddle 
 
 Canoe (bark) 
 
 Canoe (wooden) 
 
 Touch wood 
 
 Gun flint 
 
 Grass or hay 
 
 Whortleberries 
 
 Ashes 
 
 Fire 
 
 Winter 
 
 Autumn 
 
 Summer 
 
 Sun 
 
 Moon (night sun) 
 
 Stars 
 
 Thunder 
 
 Day 
 
 Chel 
 
 0-gaze 
 
 Tad-joy 
 
 Clay-cho 
 
 Clo 
 
 Cloo-lay 
 
 0-koon 
 
 Pilt 
 
 Tal-loo 
 
 Kone 
 
 Tuch-in 
 
 Pa-she-al 
 
 Al-tung 
 
 Ka 
 
 Cha-chiU 
 
 Clim-pelt 
 
 Chell 
 
 Al-la-chee 
 
 Tuch-in-chee 
 
 Kel-cha 
 
 Sa-zo-en 
 
 Clo 
 
 Chil-cho 
 
 Clees 
 
 Kone 
 
 Yas-ca 
 
 Ta-ea-ta 
 
 Ole-ol-ta 
 
 Sa 
 
 Cha-ol-cus sa 
 
 Clum 
 
 Date-nee 
 
 Ja-ness 
 
OR CARRIER TONGUE. 
 
 357 
 
 Rain 
 
 Na-ol-ton 
 
 Snow 
 
 Na-chaze 
 
 Night 
 
 Al-cheese 
 
 Morning 
 
 Pun-e-ta 
 
 Sun setting 
 
 Na-ah 
 
 Ice 
 
 Clum or Ton 
 
 Water 
 
 Too 
 
 World 
 
 Ton-ate-suck 
 
 Mountain 
 
 Chell 
 
 Sea 
 
 E-a-pack 
 
 Earth 
 
 Ote-luss 
 
 Heat 
 
 0-zell 
 
 Tomorrow 
 
 Pun-tay 
 
 Yesterday 
 
 Hul-ta 
 
 To day 
 
 Un-tit 
 
 Broth 
 
 Ta-zell 
 
 Grease 
 
 Kane-loo 
 
 Sinews 
 
 Tsay 
 
 Tent or lodge 
 
 Yah 
 
 Bed 
 
 Kus-tee 
 
 Door 
 
 Ta-tee 
 
 Dish 
 
 Tsi 
 
 Kettle 
 
 0-sa 
 
 Spoon or ladle 
 
 Chin-ne-sko 
 
 Knife 
 
 Cles-tay 
 
 Sack or bag 
 
 Aze-la 
 
 Trunk or box 
 
 Chin-kale 
 
 Chimney 
 
 Pa-kone-tas-kone 
 
 Fort or house 
 
 Yock 
 
 Sledge 
 
 Sclu-sa 
 
 Cincture or belt 
 
 Say 
 
 Socks 
 
 Ca-tell 
 
 Cloth 
 
 Tell-kuz-za 
 
358 SPECIMEN OF THE TACULLY 
 
 Thread 
 
 Garters 
 
 Medicine 
 
 Portage sling 
 
 Powder 
 
 Balls 
 
 Shot 
 
 Powder horn 
 
 Shot bag 
 
 Gun 
 
 Gun case 
 
 Steel trap 
 
 Stench 
 
 Skin 
 
 Melancholy 
 
 Spirits 
 
 Breasts 
 
 Flour or bread 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 Heart 
 
 Entrails 
 
 Home 
 
 Iron 
 
 Letter or book 
 
 Lover 
 
 Pipe 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 Orphan 
 
 Ship 
 
 Stone 
 
 Gooseberries 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 WTiite earth 
 
 A-a-bate-saj 
 
 Chal-chase 
 
 You 
 
 Ka-nal-ta 
 
 Al-la-cha 
 
 Ca-tee 
 
 No-do-tone 
 
 Da-ka 
 
 No-do-to-bost-la 
 
 Al-tee 
 
 Al-tee-zus 
 
 Cha-co 
 
 Ill-chun 
 
 0-zuss 
 
 Cho-let-nee 
 
 Kone-too 
 
 Tsoo 
 
 Clays 
 
 Hon-elt-ya 
 
 0-gee 
 
 At-zee 
 
 E-yok 
 
 Cles-tay 
 
 Dush-lush 
 Na-ho-hul-ya 
 
 Da-kate-say 
 
 Da-ka 
 
 Till-in-yaze 
 
 Chee-cho 
 
 Tsay 
 
 Ton-gueese 
 
 In-gee 
 
 Clis-paw 
 
OR CARRIER TONGUE. 
 
 359 
 
 Windy 
 
 Days-chee 
 
 White 
 
 Yell 
 
 Red 
 
 Ten-il-cun 
 
 Black 
 
 Tel-kuz-zay 
 
 Yellow 
 
 Dat-leese 
 
 Ugly 
 
 Ne-chay 
 
 Handsome 
 
 Ne-zo 
 
 Deaf 
 
 Ot-so-hoo-lah 
 
 Pregnant 
 
 El-chon 
 
 Short 
 
 En-took 
 
 Long 
 
 En-yeaze 
 
 Strong 
 
 Na-chet 
 
 Weak 
 
 At-too-na-chet 
 
 Heavy 
 
 Na-kull 
 
 Foolish 
 
 Wos-se-nay 
 
 Sensible 
 
 Ho-na 
 
 Sick 
 
 Tut-tay 
 
 Dead 
 
 Tas-si 
 
 Alive 
 
 An-na 
 
 Miserable 
 
 Til-len 
 
 All 
 
 Tche-ow 
 
 Drunken 
 
 Too-nis-to 
 
 French 
 
 Ned-do 
 
 Distant 
 
 Nee-zolt 
 
 Nigh 
 
 Nill-took 
 
 Few or little 
 
 En-soole 
 
 Shameful 
 
 Clou-cha 
 
 Full 
 
 Dees-pun 
 
 Good 
 
 Oo-choh 
 
 Bad 
 
 Ni-ka-tel 
 
 Avaricious 
 
 Kane-chee 
 
 Much 
 
 Clyne 
 
 Quick 
 
 Ut-cho-in-tin 
 
360 SPECIMEN OF THE TACULLY 
 
 Deep 
 Shallow 
 I am angry 
 To hear 
 To see 
 To smell 
 To feel 
 To eat 
 To drink 
 To sing 
 To halloo 
 To whistle 
 To weep 
 To laugh 
 To arrive 
 To depart 
 Assist me 
 To beat 
 To suck 
 To be cold 
 To dance 
 To walk 
 It is done 
 To starve 
 To fall 
 I wiU go 
 Come with me 
 To give 
 To take 
 To hate 
 I do not know 
 To keep 
 To know 
 
 Ta-kull 
 
 Too-hoos-ka 
 
 Son-e-chee 
 
 At-tade-zuck 
 
 Nee-tlen 
 
 In-chis 
 
 Oan-ton 
 
 A-al 
 
 Ate-ni 
 
 Ut-chin 
 
 Ca-an-ni 
 
 Tool 
 
 A-chuck 
 
 At-lo 
 
 Na-tell 
 
 Ni-ne-tell 
 
 Sly-en-e-lay 
 
 Chil-tul-ta 
 
 El-took 
 
 Na-zes-lay 
 
 Nate-tah 
 
 Ni-yah 
 
 A-chel-ist-la 
 
 Ne-cho-al-hoo-lah 
 
 Nal-chet 
 
 0-che-to-se-ah 
 
 An-nee 
 
 Won-nel-lay 
 
 Ill-shute 
 
 0-cha-dus-se-ne 
 
 Tuch-a-hoo-ny 
 
 Hone-lay 
 
 At-dy-e-tay 
 
OR CARRIER TONGUE. 
 
 361 
 
 To love 
 
 To lie down 
 
 To arise from bed 
 
 To sit down 
 
 To be merry 
 
 To paddle 
 
 To steal 
 
 To sleep 
 
 Go away 
 
 To talk 
 
 To lie 
 
 That 
 
 My own 
 
 Your own 
 
 Our own 
 
 I or me 
 
 Thou or thee 
 
 We 
 
 Above 
 
 Because 
 
 Bye and bye 
 
 Enough 
 
 Formerly 
 
 Here 
 
 How 
 
 How many 
 
 Immediately 
 
 No 
 
 Yes 
 
 Not yet 
 
 There 
 
 Truly 
 
 Too little 
 
 Qui-see or Kane-chee 
 
 Sin-tee 
 
 Ta-deen-yal 
 
 Sin-taw 
 
 Ous-ta 
 
 At-to 
 
 Way- to 
 
 N^-mis-tee 
 
 Us-se 
 
 Yal-tuck 
 
 On-chit 
 
 In-tee 
 
 Se-ilt sun 
 
 Ne-ne-ilt sun 
 
 Wa-ne-ilt sun 
 
 Se 
 
 Ne or Ye 
 
 Wa-ne 
 
 Ya-took 
 
 A-doo-aw 
 
 Kud-dah 
 
 Coo-14 or Ate-sel 
 
 Ul-ta 
 
 Ne-chan 
 
 Tuch-ah 
 
 Ta-nil-suck 
 
 An-tit 
 
 Own-too 
 
 Ah-ah or A-ma 
 
 Katch-ah-own-too 
 
 En-chan 
 
 Al-late-ne 
 
 Stan-sooi 
 
362 TACULLY OR CARRIER TONGUE. 
 
 Too much 
 Where 
 Yet 
 
 I thank jou 
 \Miat is that? 
 What is the matter? 
 Who is there? 
 What is your name? 
 Where are you go- 
 ing? 
 Let us depart 
 Will you trade? 
 WTience are you? 
 
 Stan-clyne 
 
 En-chay 
 
 Ka-cha 
 
 Se-na-chal-le-ah 
 
 Tee 
 
 Ta-how-cha 
 
 Te-ween-tal 
 
 Ba-zee 
 
 Ne-cha~en-e-gal 
 Na-zo-tell 
 Ba-che-o-kate 
 Ne-cha-si-il-tal 
 
NUMERICAL TERMS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 TACULLIES. 
 
 One 
 
 Clot-tay 
 
 Two 
 
 Nong-ki 
 
 Three 
 
 Toy 
 
 Four 
 
 Ting-kay 
 
 Five 
 
 Skoon-e-ly 
 
 Six 
 
 Al-ke-tate 
 
 Seven 
 
 Te-kal-ti 
 
 Eight 
 
 Al-ke-tin-ga 
 
 Nine 
 
 Clo-hoo-ly 
 
 Ten 
 
 Lan-ne-zy 
 
 Eleven 
 
 0-un-na Clot-tay 
 
 Twelve 
 
 0-un-na Nong-ki 
 
 &c. to 
 
 
 Twenty 
 
 Not-won-ne-zy 
 
 Twenty one 
 
 Not-won-ne-zy O-St Clo 
 
 Twenty two 
 
 Not-won-ne-zy 0-at 
 
 
 Nong-ki 
 
 &c. to 
 
 
 Thirty 
 
 Tat-won-ne-zy-ah 
 
 Forty 
 
 Tit-won-ne-zy-ah 
 
 Fifty 
 
 Skoo-nee-lot-won-ne-zy 
 
 Sixty 
 
 Al-ke-tate-won-ne-zy 
 
864 NU] 
 
 MERICAL TERMS. 
 
 Seventy 
 
 Tee-kal-ty-o-tate-won- 
 
 
 ne-zy 
 
 Eighty 
 
 Al-ke-ting-o-tSte-vroii- 
 
 
 ne-zy 
 
 Ninety 
 
 Clo-hoo-ly-o-tate-won- 
 
 
 ne-zy 
 
 Hundred 
 
 Na-ne-zy-o-ne-ze-ah 
 
 Thousand 
 
 Lan-ne-zy-o-lan-ne-zy-o- 
 
 
 lan-e-zy 
 
A CONCISE ACCOUNT 
 
 OF 
 
 THE PRINCIPAL ANIMALS 
 
 WHICH ARE FOUND IN THE NORTH WESTERN 
 PART OF 
 
 NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 Buffaloes are found in great numbers, in 
 all of the plain or prairie countries, on both 
 sides of the Rocky Mountain, as far north 
 as about latitude fifty six or seven. The 
 bull is larger than an ox, has short black 
 horns, and a beard under his chin; and his 
 head is filled with a long, fine hair, which 
 falls over his eyes, and gives him a frightful 
 aspect. On his back is a bunch or excres- 
 cence, commencing a little forward of his 
 haunches, the highest part of which, is over 
 his shoulders, and which terminates at the 
 neck. His whole body is covered with a long 
 hair or wool, of a dark brown colour, the 
 whole of which, and particularly that which 
 is on the fore part of the body, would an- 
 swer well for manufacturing coarse cloths 
 
366 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS 
 
 and blankets. The head of the buffaloe is 
 larger than that of the bull, his neck is 
 short, his breast is broad; and his body 
 decreases towards the buttocks. He -will 
 generally flee, at the approach of a man, 
 excepting the male, at the rutting season, 
 when he becomes ferocious. 
 
 The flesh of the buffaloe is excellent food ; 
 the hide is applied to many important uses ; 
 and the long soft hair, the natives put into 
 their shoes, about their feet, which supplies 
 the place of socks; and it is fully as warm. 
 The speed of the buffaloe, is much the same 
 as that of an ox; and when he runs he in- 
 clines his fore feet considerably^ on one side 
 of his body, for a short distance, and then 
 shifts them upon the other, and continues 
 thus, alternately to change them. 
 
 Those that remain in the country between 
 the Sisiscatchwin and Peace rivers, are called 
 the wood buffaloes, because they inhabit a 
 woody country; and they are considerably 
 smaller than those, which inhabit the plains. 
 They are, also, more wild and difiicult to 
 approach. 
 
 The horses, which the Indians possess, 
 came originally from Mexico, and are of the 
 Spanish breed. They are in general stout, 
 and well built; and many of them are of 
 great speed. They are very serviceable to 
 the Natives in the plain countries, are used 
 to transport their property from place to 
 place; and on them they run down and kill 
 
ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS 367 
 
 their game. These animals will subsist, dur- 
 ing the winter months, on the grass which 
 they find under the snow, which is seldom 
 more than six inches deep, on the plains. 
 There are but few horses to be found, farther 
 north than latitude fifty four or five. 
 
 There are three kinds of bears, the grey, 
 the brown or chocolate coloured, and those 
 which are perfectly black. The grey bear, 
 which are by far the largest, are about the 
 size of a common cow; and are remarkably 
 strong built, and very ferocious. They at- 
 tack human beings, as well as all kinds of 
 beasts, that fall in their way; and in their 
 terrible paws, the resistance, even of the 
 male buffalo, weighing fourteen or fifteen 
 hundred pounds, is utterly vain. Three or 
 four of the Natives join together whenever 
 they attempt to hunt them, and each man 
 is well armed, with a musket and a long 
 spear. 
 
 The grey bear differs but little in shape, 
 from those of a smaller kind and of a differ- 
 ent colour. Their heads are rather shorter, 
 in proportion to their bodies, their noses 
 are less pointed ; and they are more stoutly 
 built. Their colour is a beautiful lively sil- 
 ver grey. Their flesh has not so good a 
 flavour as that of the black bear, it being 
 more rank. The Natives, formerly, made 
 use of their skins for beds; but now, they 
 always exchange them with us, for blankets, 
 &c. 
 
368 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 
 
 The grey, in common with the other kinds 
 of bears, pass the winter months, without 
 taking any kind of nourishment. Their 
 retreats are by the sides of the roots of 
 large trees, that haye fallen down, or 
 in the cayerns of rocks; and in some in- 
 stances thej dig holes, in the sides of hills. 
 These habitations are enclosed on eyery side, 
 with the branches of trees, filled in with moss, 
 &c. so as completely to surround the animal, 
 excepting his nose, where a small hole is 
 left, to enable him to breathe fresh air. They 
 leaye these retreats, as soon as the warm 
 weather comes on in the spring, when they 
 are apparently as fat, as they were when 
 they entered them, in the preceding autumn. 
 
 This flesh has less substance, probably, 
 as they loose most of it, soon after their 
 egress; though they then deyour, with an 
 appetite rendered strong by a winter's ab- 
 stinence, whateyer comes in their way. Their 
 food, however, at this season, is not so 
 abundant as it is afterwards, as they general- 
 ly liye upon roots, and the different kinds 
 of fruit. They eat, likewise, ants and honey, 
 whenever they meet with that which is made 
 by bees and wasps. They rarely eat animal 
 food. 
 
 The brown and black bear differ little, 
 excepting in their colour. The hair of the 
 former, is much finer than that of the latter. 
 They usually flee from a human being. One, 
 however, that has been wounded, or a female 
 
ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 369 
 
 that has cubs, will attack a pursuer. The 
 brown and the black bear, climb trees, which 
 the grej, never does. Their flesh is not 
 considered so pleasant food as that of the 
 moose, buffaloe or deer; but- their oil is 
 highly valued by the Natives, as it consti- 
 tutes an article at their feasts, and serves, 
 also, to oil their bodies, and other things. 
 Occasionally, a bear is found, the colour 
 of which is like that of a white sheep, and 
 the hair is much longer than that of the 
 other kinds which have been mentioned; 
 though, in other respects, it differs not at all 
 from the black bears. 
 
 There are two kinds of wolves, one of 
 which is rather larger than a stout dog, 
 and the other is not more than half as 
 large. Their legs are long, in proportion 
 to their slender bodies. Their heads, also, 
 are long; and their noses are sharply pointed. 
 Their tails are long and bushy. The colour 
 of the larger kind, is generally a light grey ; 
 but some of them, are nearly white. The 
 smaller kind are commonly a silver grey; 
 but some of them are nearly black. They 
 are all very voracious; but they never at- 
 tack a human being, unless when suffering 
 greatly from hunger. They display great 
 ingenuity and cunning; generally, herd to- 
 gether, especially in the winter season; and 
 make a hideous noise, particularly when 
 thirty or forty of them are employed in 
 
 surrounding a herd of the buffaloe or deer, 
 24 
 
370 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 
 
 in order to drive them down a precipice. 
 They frequently take this method to make 
 these animals their prey; and, in order to 
 carry a project of this kind into execution 
 they form lines, by separating to a certain 
 distance from each other, and frequently 
 make noises, resembling the human yoice; 
 and they appear to act in concert, as regu- 
 larly as the Indians themselves do, when they 
 drive the buffaloes into their yards. 
 
 The wolves know the effects of a discharge 
 of a musket ; and when a hunter fires his gun 
 at a buffaloe or deer, in a few minutes, from 
 ten to twenty of them will rush to the spot 
 whence the report proceeded ; and, at some 
 times, they are so pinched with hunger, that 
 while standing beside his game, it is with 
 difficulty that the hunter preserves it from 
 being devoured by them. 
 
 There are three sorts of foxes, which, 
 however, differ only in their colour. The 
 most common are of a yellowish red, some 
 are of a beautiful silver gTey, and some in the 
 more northern latitudes, are almost black. 
 The last, are by far the most valuable. 
 
 The Indians have several kinds of dogs. 
 Those which they make use of in hunting, 
 are small, their ears stand erect ; and they 
 are remarkable for their fidelity to their 
 masters. — They now have a large breed 
 among them, which were brought into their 
 country from Newfoundland, by the English, 
 when they first established themselves on 
 
ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS 373 
 
 Hudson's Bay; and from that place they 
 have been spread into every part of the 
 country, east of the Eocky Mountain. They 
 are used only as beasts of burthen. In the 
 summer season, they carry loads upon their 
 backs ; and in the winter when there is snow, 
 they draw them upon sledges. These sledges 
 are made of two thin boards, turned up at 
 the fore end, and joined closely together, 
 so that this vehicle is twelve or fourteen 
 inches broad, and seven or eight feet in 
 length. The collar, by which the dogs draw, 
 is much like that with which a horse is usu- 
 ally harnessed, in the civilized parts of the 
 country. Their weiglit is, generally, from 
 sixty to one hundred pounds. 
 
 The cat or lynx, in its shape and nature 
 resembles the domestic cat ; but is much 
 larger. It has long legs and a long body ; 
 but a very short tail. Its hair is exceeding- 
 ly fine, considerably long, and of a lively 
 and beautiful, silver grey colour. When full 
 grown, the cat will weigh thirty five or forty 
 pounds; and when fat they are excellent 
 food. They generally live on mice, the dead 
 fish which they find along the rivers and 
 lakes, and partridges and hares. In taking 
 their prey, they manifest all the adroitness 
 and activity of the domestic cat. In some 
 years, these animals are very numerous; 
 and, frequently, the following year, very few 
 can be found. 
 
 There are two species of the deer. One of 
 
372 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS 
 
 these, denominated the jumping deer, is like 
 those which are found in the northern parts 
 of the United States ; and none of them are 
 found farther north than about latitude 
 48° or 50^. The other kind is sometimes 
 called the red deer or the elk. They are 
 about the size of a horse; and their bodies, 
 are shaped like those of the jumping deer. 
 Their tails are remarkably short, being not 
 more than three inches long. Their hair, 
 which is three inches in length, is of a light 
 grey colour, and is as coarse as that of the 
 horse. The horns of these animals grow to 
 a prodigious size, their extreme points are 
 about six feet asunder; and they branch 
 out before and behind, like those of the 
 common deer. Their bodies are well pro- 
 portioned, their air is noble; and, on the 
 whole, they are the most majestick animal, 
 that I have ever seen. They shed their horns, 
 in the month of February or March ; and by 
 August, the new ones are nearly at their 
 full growth. Not\^ithstanding the size and 
 strength of these animals, and the means 
 of defence with which they are furnished, 
 they are as timorous as a hare. Their skins 
 are very useful, and will dress as well as 
 that of a buck. They feed on grass and 
 buds, and the twigs of trees. Their flesh 
 is tender, and of a fine flavour. 
 
 The moose is, in size, next to the buffaloe, 
 among the animals of the North West. The 
 body is in shape, somewhat like that of 
 
ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 378 
 
 an ox, raw boned, with high haunches; 
 but its neck and head resemble those of a 
 horse. The ears are large, like those of an 
 ass. The horns are flat, and branched out 
 only behind; and are shed every year. The 
 feet resemble those of the deer, excepting 
 that they are much longer and broader ; and 
 when it puts them on the ground, the hoofs 
 separate, two or three inches. The head is 
 about two feet long. Tho upper is much 
 longer than the under lip of this animal; 
 and the nostrils are so wide, that a man 
 might thrust his hand into them, to a con- 
 siderable distance. The colour of the moose 
 is a light grey, mixed with a deep red, and 
 the hair is so elastic, that its shape cannot 
 be altered by beating. The flesh of this 
 animal is exceedingly good food, it being 
 easy of digestion, and very nourishing, as 
 well as very palatable. The nose and the 
 upper lip, which is large, and loose from the 
 gums, are esteemed a great delicacy; it is 
 of a consistence between marrow and gristle, 
 and when properly dressed, it is a rich and 
 luxurious dish. The hide of this animal 
 makes excellent leather, as it is thick and 
 strong; and w^hen dressed it is soft and pli- 
 able. The pace of the moose, is a walk or 
 trot; and it is exceeded in swiftness, by few 
 of its fellow tenants of the forest. It will, 
 with ease, trot over a fallen tree, of five 
 feet in diameter. This animal is commonly 
 found in low grounds, where it feeds on 
 
374 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 
 
 moss, and the buds of trees. The moose, 
 generally, remains alone; though at some- 
 times five or six of them are found together. 
 Their senses of hearing and smelling are 
 uncommonly acute; and, therefore the least 
 noise made by a hunter, such as the rustling 
 of dry leaves, or the breaking of a small 
 branch, will be heard by this animal, at 
 a great distance, and will alarm its fears. 
 When put to flight, the moose does not like 
 the deer and most other animals, run a 
 little distance, and then stop, until a new 
 appearance of danger; but, oftentimes, he 
 will not make the least halt, until he has 
 run ten or fifteen miles. No other animal 
 that runs in the woods, is so difficult of 
 approach. 
 
 There are two kinds of the cariboo. The 
 only difference between them is, that the 
 one is about twice as large as the other, 
 and the hair of the smaller, is of a much 
 lighter colour. The larger, will weigh nearly 
 as much as the elk; but, in shape and the 
 colour of the hair, it more nearly resembles 
 the moose; and like this animal it feeds 
 only on moss, and the buds of trees. The 
 horns are round, like those of the elk; but 
 they approach nearer to each other, at the 
 extremities, and bend more over the face, 
 than those of either the moose or the elk. 
 The gait of this animal is much the same 
 as that of the moose, and it is almost as 
 difficult of approach. 
 
ACCOUNT OF vVNIMALS. 375 
 
 The flesh is equally good for food; and 
 the tongue, particularly, the Natives con- 
 sider as one of the greatest dainties, which 
 their country affords. The skin, being 
 smooth and free from veins, makes the finest 
 of leather; and of it, excellent leggins and 
 shirts are made. The Indians attach great 
 value also to the dung of the cariboo, of 
 which they make, what they consider, a 
 delicious broth. They make use of the lower 
 bone of the leg of this animal, in the place 
 of a tanner's scraping knife, to separate the 
 hair from skins. 
 
 There are two kinds of antelope, which 
 differ only in size, and in the colour of their 
 tails, which are about two inches long. The 
 colour of these animals is a light grey or 
 mouse colour, with here and there a spot 
 of white. The tail of the larger, is of the 
 same colour as the body, while that of the 
 smaller, is white. The larger, is about the 
 size of the jumping deer, which animal it, 
 also, very much resembles, in shape. The 
 smaller, will weigh about as much as a sheep ; 
 and the flesh resembles mutton, in its taste. 
 These animals herd together, like the deer, 
 and always remain in an open country ; and 
 their speed is little inferiour to that of the 
 horse. They are very timorous, and as 
 soon as they perceive a human being, they 
 run off to a considerable distance, but soon 
 make a halt ; and, if the person hides him- 
 self, they will soon return, near to the spot 
 
376 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 
 
 where they had seen the object which alarmed 
 them. It is thus that the Natives manage, 
 in hunting them. Their skin is thin, and will 
 dress equally well with that of the chamois ; 
 and the lea^ther is very suitable for leggins 
 and shirts for the Natives, during the summer 
 months. The males have horns, resembling 
 those of the deer, excepting that they are 
 smaller. 
 
 The carcajou or wolverine, in shape and 
 the colour of the hair, greatly resembles 
 the skunk : but it is nearly twice as large. 
 The hair of the carcajou is about the same 
 length as that of a bear : and its colour 
 is black, excepting a narrow strip of white, 
 on the rump. The tail is about six inches 
 long, and is very bush3\ This animal is 
 remarkably strong built, for its size : and is 
 extremely voracious. He feeds on dead fish, 
 which he finds along the shores of the rivers 
 and lakes : and on mice, hares, &c. He is 
 often found about the places where human 
 beings have been interred ; and, if they have 
 not been buried deep in the earth, he will 
 take them up, and feed on their carcases. 
 On this account, the Natives never feed on 
 the flesh of this animal, though it has an 
 excellent flavour. Wlien he falls upon a large 
 animal, that has been killed and cut up and 
 left by the hunter, he will, within a very short 
 time, remove the whole of it to a consider- 
 able distance, and strive to hide it under the 
 grass, or the branches of trees. 
 
ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 877 
 
 The skunk differs not at all from the same 
 animal, as it is found in most parts of the 
 United States : and it is too well known to 
 need a description. 
 
 The porcupine, in shape, and size, differs 
 but little from the skunk. Its tail is much 
 shorter, and has little hair on it. The body 
 is covered with hair of a dark brown colour, 
 about four inches in length. This hair is 
 interspersed with quills, about the size of a 
 straw, that are white, with black ends, sharp- 
 ly pointed : and for about half an inch from 
 the end, they are covered with a kind of 
 beard, which renders it very difficult to ex- 
 tract them from any soft substance which 
 they have entered. These quills are merely 
 defensive weapons : for it is not true, though 
 it has by some been asserted, that they can, 
 at pleasure, eject them from their bodies. 
 They are an inoffensive animal, move very 
 slowly; and when overtaken by man or 
 beast, they place their heads and their legs 
 under their bodies, and place all their re- 
 liance on their quills, for protection. The 
 Indian women highly value these quills, 
 which they die of different colours, and use 
 for garnishing their shoes, leggins, &c. They 
 also hold their flesh in high estimation, as 
 an article of food. 
 
 There is a small animal, found only on 
 the Rocky Mountain, denominated, by the 
 Natives, Quis-qui-su, or whistlers, from the 
 noise which they frequently make, and always 
 
nr.s ACCOUNT of animals. 
 
 when surprised, strongly resembling the noise 
 made by a person in whistling. They are 
 about the size of a badger, are covered with 
 a beautiful long silver grey hair, and have 
 long bushy tails. They burrow in the sides 
 of the mountain, and feed on roots and 
 herbs. Their flesh is very delicious food. 
 They generally produce two young at a 
 time ; and sit upon their hind feet when they 
 give them suck. The skins of these animals 
 are very useful to the Natives, for clothing- 
 They dress them, with the hair on ; and sew 
 a sufficient number of them together, to make 
 a garment, as large as a blanket, which they 
 wrap around their bodies. 
 
 The racoon is an animal never found 
 farther north, than about latitude forty 
 eight. It is considerably smaller than a 
 beaver, with legs and feet resembling this 
 animal. The legs are short in proportion 
 to the body, which is like that of a badger. 
 It has a head like that of a fox; but with 
 ears shorter, rounder, and more naked. The 
 hair is thick, long, soft and black at the 
 ends, like that of a fox. On the face there 
 is a broad stripe, that runs across it, which 
 includes the eyes, which are large. The tail 
 is long and round, with annular stripes 
 upon it, like those of a cat. The feet have 
 five slender toes, armed with sharp claws, 
 by which it is enabled to climb trees. It 
 feeds itself with its fore feet, as with hands. 
 The flesh of this animal is very good, in the 
 
ACCOtTNT OF ANIMALS. 379 
 
 months of September and October, when 
 fruit and nuts, on which it hkes to feed, 
 are found in plenty. 
 
 The martin is some larger than a squirrel, 
 which it resembles in shape, excepting that 
 its legs and claws are considerably shorter. 
 In the darkness of the night, the eyes have 
 a shining appearance, like those of a cat. 
 It has short ears, which are of a roundish 
 shape. The whole body is covered with a 
 thick fur, which in a mild climate, is of a 
 yellowish colour; but in the colder regions 
 of the north, it becomes of a dark brown, 
 and, in some instances, is nearly black. The 
 skins, which have this dark coloured fur, 
 are much more valuable than the others. 
 The tail is covered with long hair ; and under 
 the neck, even of those of the darkest colour, 
 there is a small spot, of a yellowish cast. 
 The flesh of this animal has a rank, dis- 
 agreeable taste; and is, therefore seldom 
 eaten. 
 
 The muskrat, which receives its name 
 from the musk that it affords, resembles 
 the beaver, in every respect excepting its 
 size, which is little larger than the badger. 
 It builds for itself a cabin in marshy places, 
 at no great distance from some water : and 
 feeds on roots, herbs, mice and fish, which 
 it finds dead, on the margin of lakes and 
 streams. In the spring, these animals leave 
 their huts, as they are built in places so 
 low, that they are generally, at that season, 
 
3i?0 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 
 
 overflowed by water. During the summer 
 months, they have no fixed residence : but 
 are found in different places, among the 
 gTass. As the winter approaches, they erect 
 new huts, in which they pass the winter. 
 Carver is surely mistaken when he states, 
 that they winter in hollow trees, -without 
 any sustenance, and that, in the summer, 
 they feed on raspberries, strawberries and 
 other kinds of fruit. 
 
 In the North West country, there are only 
 three kinds of squirrels, which are the red, 
 the striped and the flying. The black and 
 gTey squirrel, seldom go farther north, than 
 latitude forty five or six. 
 
 The beaver has been so frequently and so 
 minutely described, and his sagacity, in- 
 genuity and industry are so well known, 
 that a very particular account of this animal, 
 in this place, would be superfluous. As some 
 other animals, in the foregoing description, 
 have been compared with the beaver, it may, 
 be necessary to state, that his weight is 
 usually about sixty pounds : that his body 
 is about four feet in length, and that his 
 logs are short, particularly his fore-legs, 
 which are not more than four or five inches 
 in length. His fore feet are armed with 
 claws, and his hind feet are furnished with 
 a web or membrane between the toes, for the 
 convenience of swimming, as he is an amphi- 
 bious animal. His fore-teeth stand ob- 
 liquely, projecting forward out of his mouth, 
 
ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 381 
 
 and are broad, crooked and sharp. His 
 incisors, or side teeth, are firmly set and 
 sharp, and his grinders are very strong. By 
 means of these teeth, he is able to cut down 
 considerable trees, and to break the hardest 
 substances. The ordinary colour of the 
 beaver is brown, which becomes darker in 
 the northern, and lighter in the more south- 
 ern latitudes. The number of beavers in 
 the North West country, is continually di- 
 minishing. The skins of this animal consti- 
 tute, with the Natives, the principal article 
 of trade; and the price of other things is 
 computed, by comparing them with a beaver 
 skin. 
 
 The otter is an amphibious animal, bear- 
 ing some resemblance to the beaver, and yet 
 in many respects, differing from it. His body 
 is, in every part, less than that of the beaver, 
 though it is nearly as long. His teeth are 
 different, being in shape like those of a dog 
 or wolf. The hair of the otter is not more 
 than half the length of the beaver; and in 
 some parts particularly under the neck, 
 stomach and belly, is more greyish. This 
 animal, when closely pursued, will not only 
 defend himself; but he will attack dogs and 
 even men. His food consists of roots and 
 fish ; and his fiesh tastes and smells of the 
 latter, and is not very palatable food. 
 
 The mink is of the otter kind, and sub- 
 sists on similar food, and resembles this 
 animal in its colour. In shape and size, 
 
382 ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS. 
 
 it bears a strong resemblance to the martin ; 
 but its hair is much shorter. A musky scent 
 proceeds from this animal. It is generally 
 found along small rivers. 
 
 The following catalogue of animals, will 
 exhibit the comparative value of the furs, 
 which are annually purchased and exported 
 to the civilized parts of the world, by the 
 North West Company. The animal is first 
 mentioned, the skins of which will amount 
 to the greatest sum; and so on, in order, 
 to the last, the skins of which, will amount 
 to the smallest sum. — Beaver, otter, musk- 
 rat, martin, bear, fox, lynx, fisher, mink, 
 wolf, buffaloe. 
 
 The following catalogue will exhibit the 
 comparative weight of the skins, of the differ- 
 ent animals, which are annually purchased 
 and exported, as above mentioned. — Beaver, 
 martin, muskrat, bear, otter, wolf, buffaloe; 
 lynx, &c. 
 
 END. 
 
;i 
 
JUL '0 m 
 

 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS