msm I ^;< &. \^\^ *2Km sPvj| ¥-% 7 ** ■'iii ■ c5! 178J [.EmJ ife^'^^^KaZ^ M, HIPP? LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, §fmp t §opijri]$t fa* &i+ UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. % f^f? mci^ 6e 6eaufi{?uf, fto woman \p at {?au£t cofio ^ not 6eauffj?uf at ^i^teen, 6ut an^ coomaa not •eaufifuf at *igfy, ft a/ fteri>e$ to fcfame." MABEL JENNESS. HOW : SHE : BECAME BEAUTIFUL A GUIDE TO THE CULTIVATION AND PRESERVATION OF BEAUTY By Mrs. A. H. EMMS C V "All may be beautiful. No woman is at fault who is not beautiful at sixteen, but any woman not beautiful at sixty, has herself to blame." — Mabel Jenness. Copyright, 1890 By BRANDOW PRINTING COMPANY All rights reserved JFovt ©range $t:ess Brandow Printing Company Albany, N. Y. CONTENTS Chapter I. Page. Duty of Cultivating Personal Beauty, . 5 Chapter II. The Complexion, 8 Chapter III. The Eyes, 16 Chapter IV. The Hair, 21 Chapter V. The Teeth, . . . 26 Chapter VI. The Hands, - . 30 Contents. Page. Chapter VII. The Feet, 34 Chapter VIII. Development of the Form, 36 Chapter IX. How to Reduce Flesh, 44 Chapter X. How to Increase Flesh, ...... 47 Chapter XL Face Eruptions , . . 49 Chapter XII. Removal of Superfluous Hair, .... 52 Chapter XIII. Hints on Traveling, 55 Chapter XIV. The Use and Abuse of Perfumes, ... 59 CHAPTER I. 11 Beauty, whether waking or sleeping, Shoots forth peculiar graces." — Milton. T> EAUTY, in a woman, is a dower more prec- ious than gold or silver. Its presence is indefinable and impressive, and should be con- sidered by the possessor a great boon — its culti- vation and preservation a duty. A popular authoress affirms that, however frivolous it may sound, she would have women develop their physical attractions rather than their mental. An ill-dressed woman, be she as learned as all the 'ologies and all the sciences can make her, is an unlovely object; but a tasteful " guise" ren- ders a woman attractive. The new school of beauty culturists declare that the woman who is not beautiful by the time she is sixty years of age, has wasted her time. Correct living will preserve her complexion and figure, and an indomitable determination 6 How She Became Beautiful. to " grow old gracefully" will, in a great degree, preserve her youth. A quiet, natural, unobtrusive manner is of utmost importance to render a woman attractive. Alow, sweet voice, that ''excellent thing in woman," is ever one of her chief charms and indicative of " good breeding." A prominent society lady says: ' * Women who are gifted with a remarkable power of song sway the multitude ; but the women who can make music as they talk, sway hearts." The foundation of good breeding should begin at home. From infancy, this 'should be taught ; but if education, in this respect, has been neg- lected, much can be learned through observation and association with people of refinement and culture. To be a favorite in society, self must be ignored and the comfort and happiness of others receive special consideration. Madame De Stael said she "would give half her knowledge for personal charms," and a cele- brated actress asserts that ' 'men prefer semi-fools; " but this is rather a sweeping assertion. It must be acknowledged that the sweet, femi- nine, witty little woman, with sufficient knowl- Introductory. 7 edge not to commit a " frightful faux-pas," is more frequently chosen for the wife and mother ; but it is none the less true that men place a high estimate upon intellectual qualities, and admire the highly educated woman, if she be also womanly. A popular author asserts that u tranquil happi- ness causes a woman to grow old and wrinkled." If this be true, the cares and anxieties of life only enhance beauty and give expression to the countenance. " What, then, is beauty? Not the show Of shapely limbs and features, no; These are but flowers That have their dated hours To breathe their momentary sweets, then go. 'Tis the stainless soul within That outshines the fairest skin." The real charm of any face is in the impress of thought and character, rather than in regularity of feature and brilliant complexion. By cul- ture, then, of the intellect and the soul, all may become beautiful in the truest, highest sense; for 11 Beauty was lent to nature as the type Of heaven's unspeakable and holy joy, Where all perfection makes the sum of bliss." 8 Hoiv She Became Beautiful. CHAPTER II. The Complexion. " Her cheek had the pale pearly pink Of sea-shells, the world's sweetest tint, as though She lived, one half might deem, on roses sopped In silver dew."— Bailey's Festus* ^VTOTHING is more suggestive of purity of mind and health of body than a " clear complexion/' and, even though the features be irregular, no woman is wholly unattractive if she is the fortunate possessor of this "good gift." Emma Abbott asserts that "intelligence and goodness will atone for ugly features ; but an ugly complexion is not to be condoned in these days of advanced science. To be beautiful a ?v/ woman needs only — knowledge." Mme. Jane Hading tells us that "if we can- not make beautiful what nature has failed to furnish, we do not know the value of art." This desirable complexion cannot be secured by mere outward application of cosmetics, but many things are essential, among which health and cleanliness are, perhaps, most important. The Complexion. 9 Exercise in the open air also develops the form, and gives roundness to the limbs, thus contribut- ing largely to health and, consequently, to beauty of complexion. The instrumentality of the digestive organs in producing a good complexion, is frequently ignored ; but it is an established fact that indi- gestion darkens and reddens both face and hands. Attention to the laws of health and proper medical treatment will, in time, overcome this difficulty. That cleanliness is one of the most potent promoters of health and beauty, needs no argu- ment here. A Turkish bath, once in two weeks, followed by a generous anointing with almond oil, will benefit the skin more than a year's steady application to the face alone. At the same time, the Turkish bath does not prove beneficial to all, and there are a number of €ases on record where the alternate heat and cold have been attended with disastrous effects ; but with all such the warm w^ater bath, once or twice weekly, may be substituted. More frequent bathing is desirable for those who find it healthful; but it is debilitating to many and hence detrimental; to such, the daily use of a flesh brush or coarse towel will be found advan- 10 How She Became Beautiful. tageous, as it increases the circulation and re- stores vigor to the system. A tepid bath is adapted to every age and, in declining years, will preserve youthful appearance and strengthen waning faculties. A little ammonia in the bath will be found very refreshing. It will give tone to the system, firmness to the flesh, and remove all odor of perspiration. Bran put in a thin muslin bag and allowed to remain in the bath for some time before use, is excellent for softening and whitening the skin. This is equally beneficial to the face. Fill a soft flannel bag, six or eight inches square, with bran or almond meal, and, with it, wash the face; if applied at night, allow it to dry on the skin. When washing and drying the face, rub always from the chin toward the ,ears. This prevents the flabby appearance of the cheeks and neck in later years, if strictly observed from childhood. Add a few drops of lavender or other extract to the water, in which the face is washed. It will be all the perfume a lady of refinement will desire — the " perfume of the presence," as it might well be styled. A London physician says: " It is best to bathe The Complexion. 11 just before going to bed, as any danger of taking cold is thus avoided, and the complexion is im- proved by keeping warm several hours after the bath. Another important " factor" in this desirable " product " is a generous "amount " of " tired nature's sweet restorer." Patti says: "Plenty of sleep is the secret of preserving one's beauty." The air of the sleeping apartment, however, m order to be conducive to health and beauty, must never become vitiated, but be kept pure by free circulation. Early rising, also, has a beneficial effect upon the complexion, the purity and invigorating qualities of "morning air" being everywhere conceded, and a short, brisk walk before break- fast acts like a tonic to the system. While this "pale, pearly pink of sea-shells" is, for the most part, considered very attractive for the complexion, by a strange perversity of human nature, the favorite summer tint of late years has been "tan," and many of the "fair sex," sojourning at watering places, expose them- selves to the sun to obtain a dark " coat of tan" — the darker the more fashionable. This is a great mistake, for, in many cases, the complexion never 12 How She Became Beautiful . resumes its fresh, white, healthy appearance. A beautiful child of ten years lost her clear skin forever, in consequence of this foolish "fad." She is now a young lady with a thick, swarthy complexion, and all that money can procure, or care devise has been done to eradicate the unfor- tunate fashion of a season; but to no avail. Ladies with delicate complexions, which burn easily in the sun, should wear red veils, as they give the best protection to the face. Various specifics for whitening and beautifying the complexion are recommended, and we append a few which may be used with impunity. During the reign of Charles II, the court beau- ties were said to use the following lotion : To a quart of rose, orange or clear water, add, drop by drop, stirring all the while, an ounce of simple tincture of benzoin. This emulsion has a deli- cious odor and looks like cream. It is most excel- lent for removing wrinkles, and, as a preventive, nothing can compare with it. A mask of quilted cotton w r et with cold water, and worn while sleeping has been found excellent for softening and refining the complexion. This should be worn for two or three months, and one will be amply rewarded for the discomfort endured. The Complexion. 13 The following recipe for making cold cream is recommended by a reliable authority: Pure white wax, - one ounce, Spermaceti, - - two ounces, Almond oil, - - one-half pint. Melt these in an earthen jar over hot water, beat with a silver spoon while cooling, until snow-white. As for "powders/ 5 there must be wise and careful selection, as grave disfigurements, some- times, arise from the use of cheap powders, injurious by reason of certain chemical ingre- dients. By absorption into the skin, the health has often been impaired and, in not a few in- stances, death has resulted. Tw t o young ladies living in a western city used a cheap powder containing white lead, and, in consequence, one lost the use of her fingers and arms, and the other is subject to frequent spasms. Another lady purchased a cheap pink powder and in a short time her face was covered with rough red spots resembling ring worms. There are, in short, among the toilet powders now in the market, many which irritate delicate skins. In making up the face for evening, first apply cold cream thoroughly, wipe off with a fine linen handkerchief, and carefully powder. Pencil the eyebrows, apply a little color to the lips, the 14 How She Became Beautiful. lower part of the cheeks and inside the ears. Tint the mouth with great care, as too much color in the corners widens it, and a large mouth can be toned down by powdering the corners and increasing the arch in the centre of the upper lip. Touch all lightly with powder to soften the tint. For the color, a red silk rose is inexpen- sive and harmless; or the following recipe for rose lip salve may be used : Almond oil, - four ounces, Spermaceti, - - one ounce, Alkanet root, - one ounce, White wax, - - one ounce. Melt together in an earthen bowl placed in a pot of hot water ; keep hot for five hours to extract the color from the alkanet root ; strain through flannel ; add perfume when cool ; stir until cold. To give natural color to the cheeks, rub the throat and neck sharply. This friction will ren- der the skin there smooth and w T hite, and will send the blood surging to the face. That the use of arsenic will whiten the com- plexion, for a time, is undoubtedly true, but no one, who understands the terrible effects of such folly, will ever make use of so dangerous a cos- metic. Physicians testify that the result is dropsy, idiocy and death, and the sallow, deadened com- The Complexion. 15 plexion produced by its use for a few years is far from beautiful. Preferable, indeed, is the " clear, pink and white," which is the exponent of per- fect health. The recklessness of some women in the use of liberally advertised toilet articles and drugs, can not be too emphatically condemned. Paralysis and death have been proved to result from the use of poisonous powders. Arsenic, oxide of zinc, white lead and Paris white are all used, to a greater or less extent, in many deliciously perfumed powders. We know of nothing so harmless, and yet so beneficial to the complexion, as Mrs. Emms' Medicated Powder Rags. They contain their own cold cream and powder, both warranted to be of the purest quality. They are for general use, and any additional powder does not injure them, but renders their use more effectual. They are the conception of a prominent society actress, who is the unfortunate possessor of a shiny com- plexion which she finds necessary to tone down, constantly, and hence is compelled to carry pow- der with her at all times. In sheer desperation, she consulted us; gave several suggestions upon the subject, and after many ineffectual attempts to utilize them, success crowned our efforts. 16 How She Became Beautiful. These "rags" can be slipped in the pocket, and quietly used in any emergency when the face is over-heated. After using a few times, no trace of powder will be seen on the face, but the complexion will appear clear and brilliant. Eubbing the hands with the powder-rag will keep them white and soft, and also prevent chap- ping. No application of cold cream is necessary before boating, driving or sea-bathing, as the powder-rag furnishes its own, and will prevent tan and sunburn. For summer outings, and, indeed, upon all occasions, where the application of cold cream or powder is desirable, Mrs. Emms' Self-supplying Powder Rags will be found invaluable. CHAPTER III. The Eyes. 14 From women's eyes this doctrine I derive; They sparkle still the right Promethean fire; They are the books, the arts, the academies, That show, contain, and nourish all the world; Else none at all in aught proves excellent."— Shaks2)ea?*e. npHE eye is the most beautiful optical instru- ^ ment in the world. Without it, as another The Eyes. 17 has said, all the beauties of field and forest, the very face of nature, indeed, would be to us a perfect blank. Through it, flows into the soul of man as he goes forth amid the beauties of nature with which a bounteous Creator has surrounded us, an ever-constant stream of happiness and delight. But this organ, like all others of the body, is subject to decay, and its delicate structure ren- ders it extremely liable to accident and disease, in the treatment of which, the greatest possible care should be exercised. Applications of tepid or cold water are usually very efficacious for inflamed eyes, unless caused by erysipelas, in which case moisture is often injurious. Saliva is considered excellent for ordinary inflammation of the eye, especially if applied in the morning. One lady cured a small tumor on her eyelid in this way, and another successfully removed a wart from her nose. The use of borax dissolved in cold water is strongly recommended by some physicians as a soothing remedy for inflamed eyes. When washing and drying the face, the eyes should be rubbed inward instead of outward, as this has a tendency to preserve the eye-sight. A 2 X 18 How She Became Beautiful. lady who followed this plan from childhood, though now fifty years of age, has never worn glasses. Near-sightedness has, also, been cured in the same manner. To remove a speck of any kind from the eye, rub the opposite eye or insert a grain of flax seed under the lid ; this is excellent, and will alleviate the pain in a short time. For tired, aching or weeping eyes, put into a two ounce vial of water, half a teaspoonf ul of essence of peppermint, and having shaken well, apply to the eyes. Increase the proportion of water if found too strong. It should produce, for the moment, a slight warmth, the after effect being agreeable, cooling and healing. A harmless way of brightening the eyes, is to eat a piece of lump sugar, wet with cologne. It will also sweeten the breath, and thus serve two purposes. Spectacles were formerly considered necessary for the aged only, but, at the present day, it is not uncommon to see them worn by young chil- dren. A well-know r n oculist says this is often made necessary by the use of baby carriages in which infants are not properly shaded from the sun; many of them being uncanopied, or having The Eyes. 19 a canopy as flimsy as a butterfly's wing. An old-fashioned baby-cart is not so stylish, but it is far better for the eyes of the delicate infant. Sight has often been improved by gently press- ing the eyes when closed, and by bathing them frequently. Twitching of the muscles of the eye is caused by general weakness of the system, and the remedy is — rest. Extreme sleepiness and inability to keep the eyes open is not a disease of the eye, but nature's demand for her just dues. A physician once prescribed a week's sleep and rest in such a case, and a cure was effected. Training the eyes to distinguish objects at a long distance, strengthens and prolongs the eye- sight. The sty is caused by a hair which grows inward and irritates the eye, until a little boil is developed. If this hair can be removed, a cure will speedily be effected. An application of black tea, or a bread poultice, to which a little olive oil has been added, will draw the inflammation from a sty. The eyes and the mouth are the two features most easily improved. Penciling will give the 20 How She Became Beautiful. eyes depth and expression, and a large mouth can be made considerably smaller by covering the corners with powder, and by emphasizing the curves of the lips with rouge. A face can be wonderfully improved by adding a line here and there, or by removing a shadow, with a dash of powder. If the eyebrows are imperfect, a burnt match will supply deficiencies, and if skillfully used the application will not be perceptible. The mixture of rum and bitter apple, referred to in the article on " Hair," will promote the growth of the eye- brows ; apply with a chamois hairbrush. Appli- cations of common salt or warm vaseline, are also recommended. Carefully cutting the ends of the eyelashes every five or six weeks, will promote their growth. A dye for the eyebrows and lashes is prepared by slowly boiling an ounce of walnut bark in a pint of water for an hour. Add a lump of alum, the size of a thimble, to set the dye, and apply wittf a small hair pencil. For inflammation of the skin under the eyes and inflamed eyelids, nothing can excel Mrs, Emms' Marvelone, which, however, should be carefully kept from the eye itself, as it will cause a smart- The Hair. 21 ing pain. To keep the inflamed skin cool during the day, use "Mrs. Emms' Self -supply ing Powder Rags." CHAPTER IV. The Hair. "Hair! 'tis the robe which curious nature weaves, To hang upon the head."— Decker. A BUNDANT hair is an ornament to woman, *^ but it is, also, a great care. There is no dust-catcher equal to it, as every floating particle lodges in the flowing tresses, over which the poets love to rave. In its care, one of the first and principal requi- sites is to brush it ; the second, to brush it, and the third, to brush it. If the hair is dull in color and wiry in texture, brush it. If it is losing the gloss it had when you were younger, brush it. If it looks old and sickly, brush it. Brush often and brush long, and the hair will become more soft and silky than the most persistent combing can ever make it. A London physician says, "The chief require- ment for the hair is cleanliness." A society lady, now upon the stage, has her hair 22 How She Became Beautiful washed every clay in extract of violets, and fan- ned until dry. It is said to resemble burnished gold and is greatly admired. But for most ladies a less expensive bath for the hair is desirable, and many effective ones are recommended. An excellent wash is made by beating the yolk of an egg into the froth of any pure soap, and adding half an ounce of spirits of rosemary, rinsing the hair afterward with cold water or bay rum. Or the beaten yolk of an egg added to a quart of boiling water, makes a good and harmless wash. If the hair is naturally moist, dissolve a little borax and glycerine in the rinse water. If it is harsh and dry, use vaseline only. If the hair is thin and threatens to fall out, or if the " parting," that " Silver line, which from the brow to the crown, And in the middle, parts the braided hair, And serves to show how delicate a soil The golden harvest grows in," is becoming inconveniently wide, massage the scalp at night thoroughly, and change the loca- tion of the "parting." Treatment of this sort will not produce sudden results, but, if there be no disease of the scalp, marked improvement will be apparent after a few months of faithful effort. The Hair. 23 Three or four times a year the hair should receive the attention of a good hair-dresser, who will give it just the treatment necessary for its healthy growth. To promote the growth of the hair, the follow- ing recipe was published in a recent magazine, and has been used with great success. Put half an ounce of bitter apples (colocynth) into half a pint of the best Jamaica rum ; let it remain for three days, shaking daily ; strain, and apply to the roots of the hair, three times a week with a sponge mop. Cutting off the ends of the hair once a month, is practiced by many, and with good results. Burdock root tea is strongly recommended for falling hair. Boil one pound of burdock root in two quarts of water until the mixture is reduced to a pint, and add half an ounce of coarse salt. The New York Medical Record advises, ' ' per- sistent and thorough cleansing of the scalp," and says, " Young Americans, who do not wish to lose their hair before they are forty, must begin to look after their scalps before they are twenty.' The removal of dandruff should never be neg- lected, as its tendency is to cause baldness. Frequent applications of heated vaseline, is 24 How She Became Beautiful. the best remedy known for baldness. Apply at night, and thoroughly cleanse the head in the morning. Daily friction of the scalp with a coarse brush has, in some cases, proved sufficient for remedying this difficulty. Cutting the hair of children is a mistake, as it stunts its growth and renders it harsh and wiry. Curling the hair with irons, does not, of neces- sity, injure it, if the precaution is taken to wrap the lock in thin paper before applying the iron. If the hair be stubborn, it will better retain the curl if moistened with water in which a few drops of maple syrup have been placed. Quince seed, gum tragacanth and Irish moss, are all excellent for keeping the hair in curl, but care must be taken that it be prepared of the proper consistency. In washing the hair, always dry in the way it is to be combed or curled. Switches and false fronts may be cleansed by dipping in diluted ammonia, which will impart life and freshness. The hair of a young lady is said to have turned gray, in spots, by having lemon juice accidentally spilled upon it. As many are resort- ing to bleaching in order to obtain the "gray The Hair. 25 locks," which are, at present, considered so attrac- tive even to a young face, this accident may furnish the clue to a harmless and inexpensive bleacher. Peroxide of hydrogen will impart to the hair a golden hue. The hair must first be thoroughly washed and dried, and the peroxide rubbed into the roots with a sponge mop. If the hair is desired only a little lighter, the peroxide should be used sparingly — once in two months, — but if a " golden hue" is sought, it must be applied more frequently. To bleach the hair light, wash, nightly, with water, into a quart of which, one tablespoonful of ammonia, one of washing soda and one of borax has been dissolved. To keep the hair light, wash once a week with the same mixture. Or wash once a fortnight with salts of tartar, five cents worth being dissolved in a pint of boiling water. After cooling, pour over the head and rub until it ceases to lather. Einse first with hot, then with cold water and fan until dry. To darken the hair, boil the parings of pota- toes in a little water, strain, and when cold apply with a fine comb or a sponge, taking care not to touch the skin of the face or neck. Ex- posure to the san will set the dye. 26 How She Became Beautiful. Hair powder is made from powdered starch sifted through muslin, and diamond powder is prepared from ground isinglass and, afterward, perfumed. As for the arrangement of the hair, study it until a becoming style is obtained, and, through all changes of fashion, retain it, as the gradual fading of the countenance will be less noticeable, if the contour of the head and face remain un- changed. CHAPTER V. The Teeth. 11 The turnpike road to people's hearts, I find, Lies through their mouths, or I mistake mankind." HpHE proper care and preservation of the teeth is a subject demanding the attention of every thoughtful person, for upon them depend, largely, health, comfort and appearance. Nothing adds more to the beauty of a person than a handsome set of teeth, and nothing subtracts more than a mouthful of unclean, irregular and half decayed teeth. Defective teeth, besides presenting an unsightly The Teeth. 27 appearance, are a great detriment to health, as the inability to masticate properly the food, pro- duces dyspepsia and indigestion ; for '* Good digestion waits on appetite And health on both." It is claimed that flouring mills are the source of great injury to the teeth of all who subsist largely upon their fine bolted flour. The carbonates and the phosphates of lime — the bone producing ingredients — are removed in order to produce this fine white flour, which is proving a whitened sepulcher to so many teeth. Oat meal is one of the best foods for supplying the teeth with the requisite nutrition ; and the Germans possess strong teeth, the result of the habitual use of rye bread. Keeping the lips apart and breathing through the mouth instead of the nose is very injurious to the teeth and gums, as dirty and gritty particles are inhaled and settle upon them, causing decay. Mr. George Catlin, the explorer, who spent many years in studying the habits of the Ameri- can Indians, was so impressed by their habit of breathing through the nose — a habit early fos- tered by the Indian mothers — and the freedom of the Indians from lung and throat diseases, that he 28 How She Became Beautiful. wrote a book upon the subject entitled, "The Breath of Life." A predisposition to consumption and a habit of snoring, that he carried into the wilderness, were corrected, in a great measure, by adopting the prac- tice of keeping the mouth closed, learned from his Indian friends. He writes : " From observations I have made among the two classes of society, added to my own experience, I am compelled to believe, and feel authorized to assert, that a great portion of the diseases prematurely fatal to human life, as well as mental and physical deformities and des- truction of the teeth, are caused by the abuse of the lungs, in the mal- respiration during sleep ; and, also, that the pernicious habit, whether con- tracted in infancy and childhood, or in manhood, may generally be corrected by a steady and de- termined perseverance, based upon a conviction of its baneful effects." For the preservation of the teeth, the first and principal requisite is cleanliness. Powdered orris root and pulverized charcoal, mixed into a paste with white honey, makes an excellent dentrifice. Powdered charcoal and lemon juice will also The Teeth. 29 render the teeth white, but, in all cases, the char- coal must be thoroughly removed from the teeth. Sage leaves are said to clean teeth beautifully, and precipitated chalk is highly recommended by some dentists. Tincture of myrrh and a little green sage, mixed with two spoonsful of white honey, forms a tooth paste excellent for both teeth and gums. Ordinary tooth-ache may be relieved by insert- ing in the tooth, cotton saturated with oil of cloves, turpentine or creosote. The use of cachous of any kind is in bad taste. Licorice or orris root is the best sweetener of the breath, or the mouth may be rinsed occa- sionally in water containing a few drops of cologne. Unpleasant breath arises from decayed teeth, disordered stomach or catarrhal affections, and, in all cases, the cause should be determined and the effect remedied. Many of the ill-shaped mouths and crooked teeth, so frequently seen, are the result of the habit, so common in childhood, of sucking the fingers. A woman, whose beauty is much disfig- ured by coarse lips, attributes the blemish to the habit of putting her thumb in her mouth, while 30 How She Became Beautiful. going to sleep. Another, whose lips protrude con- siderably, now censures her mother for allowing her to find consolation in her two forefingers. If persuasion will not correct this pernicious habit ; more vigorous measures should be adopted and, if necessary, the hands should be tied together. Another very unfortunate habit among chil- dren, is the continual biting of the lips. This results in a thickening of them, and in making them super-sensitive, and the habit should be speedily corrected. Wooden tooth-picks are said to be injurious to the health, as small bits of the wood are often swallowed and lodge in the walls of the stomach, producing innumerable ills. CHAPTER VI. The Hands. " The instrument of instruments, the hand, Courtesy's index, chamberlain to nature, The body's soldier; and mouth's caterer; Psyche's great secretary; the dumb's eloquence, The blind man's candle, and his forehead's buckler; The minister of wrath, and friendship's sign."— Lingua. HAT the hand is indicative of noble birth, is an assertion that can scarcely be substanti- The Hands. 31 ated by facts, for many beautiful hands are seen among the lowly born, and many very ill-shaped ones among the aristocratic, " blue-blooded dames." Whatever the shape of the hand, whiteness and softness are considered very desirable by all, and for securing these, several things are recom- mended, some of which are subjoined. Great care must be exercised in the selection of soaps. Only those containing oil or fat should be used, and of those sparingly. Coarse soap ren- ders the skin dry and rough, and should, in con- sequence, be avoided. Indian meal and vinegar may be used, instead of soap, and will whiten the hands and prevent chapping. Oat meal, if used persistently, will answer the same purpose. The w r ater, also, should receive attention, and if hard, should be softened by using powdered borax. The wearing of kid gloves, at night, is prac- ticed by many ladies, for whitening the hands and undoubtedly, this is very beneficial. The gloves should be loose and of a light color, and before putting them on, apply freely to the hands a paste made from the yolks of two eggs, two 32 How She Became Beautiful. teaspoons of the oil of sweet almonds, one ounce rose water and thirty-six drops of tincture of benzoin. Or the hands may be thoroughly rub- bed with sweet almond oil and covered thickly with refined chalk or any powder. A Southern lady keeps her hands beautifully white by wearing, every night, large mittens made from waterproof, filled with wet oat-flakes. Ladies compelled to wash their own dishes, are advised to use dish-mops, which can be purchased for a small sum. Eubber gloves are, also, excel- lent for this purpose, but they are expensive and are not durable. Eed hands are caused, often, by tight sleeves, and from too much blood. A warm foot-bath, each night, will remedy this defect in a measure, by drawing the blood from the hands. For chapped hands, camphorated oil is excel- lent, and a few applications will be found very effectual. An excellent camphor-ice for chapped hands is made as follows: Spermaceti, - - - one and one-half ounce. Gum camphor, pulverized fine, three-fourths ounce. Sweet almond oil, - - four teaspoonsful. Heat slowly, and stir constantly, until dis- solved. Raw potatoes will remove vegetable and berry The Hands. 33 stains from the hands, or diluted oxalic acid may be used for the same purpose. For agnails, use mutton tallow freely on the nails after washing, and rub in thoroughly. To manicure the nails, allow the hand to he in warm water for some time, dry, and with a sharp pair of small scissors, clean and cut the nails and loosen the superfluous flesh about the onyx. Polish the nails with fine powder, composed of equal parts of pulverized pumice stone and pre- cipitated chalk. Wash the hands again with warm water and soap, dry and polish without the powder and, finally, rub with a rosy unguent to give them a shell-like polish. To tint the finger-tips pink, soak an eighth of an ounce of alkanet chippings, tied in coarse muslin, in a half -pint of diluted alcohol for a week. With a piece of cotton, apply to the tips of the fingers after manicuring. The wearing of thimbles on the fingers, over night and when the hands are unemployed, to improve the finger-tips, is well-known and proves, in many cases, very effectual. For warts, the application of simple lemon juice is an infallible cure. Saturate with the juice two or three times a day for a week, and 3 34 How She Became Beautiful. the wart will gradually diminish and disappear. Above all, to secure hands, "as soft as dove's down, and as white as it," use Mrs. Emms 5 Self- supplying Powder Rags. CHAPTER VII. The Feet. " Her grace of motion and of look, the smooth And swimming majesty of step and tread, The symmetry of form and feature, set The soul afloat, even like delicious airs Of flute or harp."— Milman. >T\EIE comfort of every individual depends largely upon the condition of the feet — therefore it is of the utmost importance that at- tention^ given to their proper care. The first requisite to this is thorough cleanli- ness — a requisite which will assuredly need no argument. Frequent washing, also, has the addi- tional advantage of preserving the elasticity, pliancy and j shape of the feet. The nails^should not be allowed to grow beyond the toes, as they are liable to be forced back by pressure of the shoes, and cause tenderness and pain ; and, in many cases, produce ingrowing nails. The Feet. 35 Occasionally, at night, anoint the feet with al- mond oil, rubbing in thoroughly. This will loosen the dry, scaly skin, so that it may readily be re- moved, leaving the feet as soft and rosy as an infant's. The soreness and stiffness of the feet and limbs, resulting from long pedestrian excursions, can readily be obviated by a Turkish bath. If this be inaccessible , a warm bath with a generous quantity of ammonia in the water, is a good substitute. To prevent corns, wear close fitting shoes, as loose shoes, which are usually recommended, are sure to produce them. To remove corns, a mixture of one part of car- bolic acid to two parts of glycerine is excellent. Turpentine applied night and morning will also frequently effect a permanent cure. Tissue pa- per worn between the toes will often cure soft corns, and afford almost instant relief from pain. For frost-bite or chilblain, snow is one of the best remedies, if applied immediately. Rub until the pain ceases, and wrap with oiled cotton. Alum water is also recommended for this purpose. The feet must be immersed in a strong hot solution for a half hour or more. To relieve ingrowing nails, cut a V from the cen- 36 How She Became Beautiful. treof the nail, and insert cotton under the corner. Stepping backward and forward before a mir- ror, will frequently correct pigeon-toed walking, and is certainly worth trying, to remedy so un- graceful a gait. It has become quite the rage among fashiona- ble shoemakers, to sift either orris-root powder or some lasting sachet powder between the leather and lining of ladies' boots. They have also, in stock, dainty little shakers, filled with scented powder, which may be used at pleasure. For fetid feet, nothing can compare with Mrs. Emms' "Bontravato." It is very inexpensive, and a few applications will effect a permanent cure. CHAPTER VIII. Development of the Form. "A native grace Sat fair-proportioned on her polished limbs Veiled in a simple robe, their best attire Beyond the pomp of dress ; for loveliness Needs not the foreign aid of ornament But is, when unadorned, adorned the most."— Thomson. 44 TV/TAKING one's self beautiful is a w^ork of time but it can be done." Exercise is of the utmost importance to develop the figure and Development of the Form. 37 to keep it pliant and graceful. Walking, rowing, swimming, dancing and housework will accom- plish much, and help to give an erect, elegant carriage which has been styled a u patent of nature's nobility." No other women hold themselves so well as the aristocratic English women, much of whose beauty lies in their proud carriage, delicate erect- ness of figure and fine pose of head. The same aristocratic carriage is within the reach of any American lady who will take the trouble to acquire it. A few years of " eternal vigilance," however, are necessary. Invalidism is out of fashion at present ; neither is it fashionable to be puny. Women are culti- vating robust figures, and the results are already manifest in the clear complexions, straightened figures, and elastic, graceful carriage of the girls and women who have indulged in out-door exer- cise, gymnastics, horseback riding, etc. Men admire women who are companionable, who can take little jaunts with them, and not return completely exhausted. The out- door exercise and physical culture that limbers up every muscle in the body and keeps it full of electric life, will have a tendency to 38 Hoiv She Became Beautiful. make an elderly woman seem young, and a woman is never too old to begin such training. " All women are not pretty, all are not graceful, but every woman has a best side, and it is her duty to know it and to keep it in view, instead of the worst side, which so many of the dear crea- tures seem determined to present " — so says Mrs. Frank Leslie, who may, perhaps, be regarded as authority in such matters. Women who wish to preserve the slimness and contour of their figure, must begin by learning to stand well. This is explained to mean the throwing upward and forward of the chest, the flattening of the back with the shoulder-blades held in their proper places, and the definite curving in the small of the back, thus throwing the weight of the body upon the hips. Teachers of physical trainingassert that the will, alone, should be employed to secure proper carriage of the body, except in cases of feeble, delicate persons, when shoulder-braces may be allowed, as they relieve the heart and lungs by throwing the weight upon the back. " Round shouldered " forms are the most common offense against symmetry and beauty of figure, and pillows are, to a great extent, charge- Development of the Form. 39 able for this, as lying in bed with the head bol- stered up several inches higher than the shoulders, naturally inclines the head forward. A stooping form can be entirely cured by the simple exercise of raising one's self upon the toes leisurely several times daily, keeeping the heels together and the arms dropped by the sides. A persevering mother succeeded in'straighten- ing the shoulders of her daughter, by securely binding her to the back of an old-fashioned straight backed chair, daily, during her study hours. Most young girls are one-sided, caused by car- rying school-books on one arm, or by sitting and standing in a careless position. A dressmaker asserts that nearly all her patrons are deformed in this way. All this can be overcome by a care- ful study of the defects and careful attention to the proper remedies for these defects. Many women are in the habit o£ going up stairs with the body inclined forward and the chest contracted. This is very injurious, espe- cially to those who have a predisposition to pul- monary diseases, and should be corrected without delay. A prominent society lady has her three daugh- 40 How She Became Beautiful. ters sing the scales every morning to develop their chests, and finds it accomplishing the desired result. Skipping the rope backward will widen the chest, and is a very healthful exercise, well calcu- lated to develop the muscles. A friend affirms that she has developed her throat and shoulders by slowly turning her head from side to side as far as possible, for five or ten minutes daily. Certainly a great improvement is noticeable, as her neck was more than thin. The right arm, being developed by constant use, is usually larger than the left, and in many cases the breast on the right side is smaller, continual use of the arm interfering with its growth. A lady affected in this way, and doing the light por- tion of her housework, increased the size of her left arm by using the carpet sweeper with that arm only. Bathing the breasts with cold water, every night and morning, will certainly develop them, an in- crease of two inches in bust measure having been attained in this way, by one lady, in six months. Another lady, while using cold water, found that one breast developed more rapidly than the other. She was much perplexed, but investiga- Development of the Form. 41 tion revealed the fact that she always attended to that side first, really using more water and giving it more attention. By reversing the application, success soon rewarded her efforts. Avoid padding by all means. Sew a covered steel, of the kind used for dress waists, at the top of the corset, and if anything more is needed lay a piece of starched lawn, carelessly crumpled across the chest. A thin lady can do much to conceal her "lean- ness" by winding sheet wadding around her body before putting on her corset, and by put- ting the same between the lining and goods of the dress-waist and sleeves. The corset may not be injurious if sufficiently loose to admit of free and full respiration, and used simply as a "stay;" but there can be no question in regard to the pernicious effects of this article of dress, in any case w r here the facts would warrant the following words of Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes : 11 Still she strains the aching clasp That binds her virgin zone; I know it hurts her, though she looks As cheerful as she can. Her waist is larger than her life, For life is but a span." 42 How She Became Beautiful. To those who object to wearing the corset, its place can be readily supplied by using the gar- ments of Annie Jenness Miller, which are now becoming so popular. The shape and style of the corset is of consid- erable importance. A stout lady, accustomed to wear a high-priced one with an abdominal band, suffered for years with tenderness about the waist line. She was advised to try an ordi- nary corset of the same manufacture without the band, and, to her astonishment found her form improved and the tenderness entirely removed. Gently rubbing the stomach night and morn- ing, and more frequently if possible, will greatly reduce it in size, if persistently tried. Projecting ears may be remedied, in a measure, by bandaging them at night. Many have resorted even to surgery to correct this blemish to per- sonal appearance. Large nostrils can be modified and reduced by gently pressing them together many times daily. The mouth should be kept closed for hygienic reasons and for personal appearance. An open mouth gives a vacant, and sometimes almost idiotic expression to the face. Development of the Form. 43 Never swing the arms when walking, as it causes one to appear masculine and ill-bred. Many stout people are troubled with chafing under the arms and between the thighs. Per- fect cleanliness and careful drying after bathing are necessary. An application of powder or corn- starch is also beneficial. The benefit derived from the use of cotton batting basted on the inside of one's underwear is invaluable, for it not only affords relief but in many cases effects a cure. A recent New York daily condemns the prac- tice of crossing the limbs indulged in by some ladies, and asserts that they are in this way inviting serious physical ailments. A woman, more modest and restricted in her movements than one of the sterner sex, rests the entire weight of one limb upon the upper part of the other, and this pressure upon the sensitive nerves will, if continued, produce sciatica, neuralgia, and other serious difficulties. In regard to dress, never adopt a fashion, but adapt it. 14 Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed in fancy ; rich, not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man." 44 How She Became Beautiful. An elegant simplicity of dress, with unaffected manners, demands respect and admiration. Finery and furbelows are especially unbecoming to an elderly woman, and serve to make her age more apparent. " Youth no less becomes The light and careless livery that it wears, Than settled age his sables and his weeds, Importing health and graveness." CHAPTER IX. To Reduce Flesh. " Make less thy body hence and more thy grace."— ShaJcspeare. /^VER abundance of flesh, besides being a great ^^^ impediment to one's movements is, as a rule, indicative of disease. To reduce flesh, attention to diet is the sine qua non. This Banting has proved, as also Fanny Davenport and others of his disciples. In consequence of his dietary regimen, his flesh was reduced at the rate of a pound a week for thirty-five weeks and his waist measure dimin- ished twelve inches. His sight and hearing, which had become considerably impaired, were much improved. To Reduce Flesh. 45 Bismarck is said to have reduced his flesh by the following method : Three goblets full of cold water were taken every morning before break- fast, one, upon rising ; another, fifteen minutes later ; and the third, just before eating breakfast. One will feel at first as if a whole water melon had been eaten ; but, in a short time, all incon- venience disappears. The habit of drinking freely with the meals, however, has a tendency to increase corpulency. In Spain, where men drink little, a fat man is unknown. In Paris, where men content themselves with small cups of black coffee, or thimblesful of absinthe, they are thin to a remarkable degree. The women drink large quantities of champagne, beer and burgundy, and are inclined to stout- ness. In England and Germany, large quantities of ale and beer are consumed, and, in both countries, corpulent men are the "rule," instead of the "exception." A good substitute for liquids is juicy fruits, which will readily quench thirst. One lady used, for corpulency, lemon juice in an equal quantity of water. Another took bro- 46 How She Became Beautiful. mide of ammonia. Both succeeded in securing considerable reduction in weight. A physician prescribes, for reducing flesh, walking slowly up and down stairs. Walking up and dow r n hill is, also, recommended to accom- plish the same result. Stout people require a great deal of exercise, and its importance and benefit can scarcely be understood without faithful trial. A gentleman residing in Brooklyn, declares that if a person stands so that lips, chin, chest and toes are on the same vertical line, and breathes freely and deeply, meanwhile drawing in the abdomen, all unnecessary fat will be con- sumed and the lung power and general strength greatly increased. Since women began to enter the arena as pro- fessional pedestrians, there has appeared a class of trainers who promise to reduce flesh without injury to health. Many society ladies put them- selves in the hands of these trainers, and subject themselves to the regimen necessary to gain the coveted prize. Most trainers begin by, at least, one -day's entire fasting, and, for three days, no substantial food is allowed. Then the patient takes very extended walks, interspersed with To Increase Flesh. 47 running and jumping. This is followed by a bath of salt water and vigorous rubbing. The only nourishment allowed is rare beef and or- anges. This treatment overcomes the sluggish- ness that results from excessive corpulence, and the habits of activity, thus established, prevent, usually, the recurrence of flesh. CHAPTER X. To Increase Flesh. " Let me have men about me that are fat, Sleek-headed men, and such as sleep o'nights: Yond' Cassius has a lean and hungry look; He thinks too much; such men are dangerous."— Shakspeare. TT has been said that " clever people are never fat," but this is an exaggeration, as obesity and intellectual acumen are by no means incompati- ble and are often found in combination. Shirley Dare advises eating before retiring, and says ' ' nourishment taken then is not wasted in exertion, but laid up in the form of tissue which rounds the figure, and is a little reserve of strength for the next day, and women who work hard, frequently require some light nourishment before sleeping." 48 How She Became Beautiful. Some thoroughly healthy people never become fleshy. This is due, in a measure, to undue physi- cal exercise, or to constant activity of the mental faculties. To acquire flesh, use glutinous food — oatmeal, wheaten grits, cerealine, etc., with milk or cream. Soups, fat meats, eggs and foods containing an abundance of saccharine are, also, a flesh- forming diet. Chicken, beef or mutton soups, thickened with barley or rice, are fattening, as are also lobster or chicken salads with mayonnaise dressing. Eat freely of fresh fruits and vegeta- bles, especially potatoes. A tablespoonful of salad oil taken after each meal superinduces flesh and has, in several instances, brought the desired roundness to the limbs of really skinny ladies, but this was after several years of constant use. Cod liver oil taken in small quantities about an hour after meals is considered very efficacious for making blood and for improving the general con- dition of the system. A cup of chocolate or clam broth will build up the strength far more effectually than port wine. In partaking of any beverages, they should be sipped. Drenching the stomach with large quan- Face Eruptions. 49 tities of hot or cold liquids is a pernicious habit, greatly impairing the digestive organs, and thus hindering the increase of flesh. CHAPTER XI. Face Eruptions. " The thrifty heavens mingle our sweets with gall, Lest, being glutted with excess of good, We should forget the giver."~l?awlins. • TDIMPLES and other face eruptions betoken impurity of the blood, and are supposed to be occasioned by a secretion of bile which finds an outlet in these humors. Many have rough, eruptive skins because they wash the face and neglect the full bath. The pores thus become clogged and the impure matter in the blood manifests its presence, in the only place where it can find egress — the face. Proper attention to the bath and the diet are, then, of vital importance to persons afflicted in this way. Salt food should be avoided and all pastries and other rich foods. The use of greasy soaps is also injurious. 50 How She Became Beautiful. "Marvelone" will cure all eruptions of the skin, and its use renders the complexion marvel- ously clear and brilliant. In cases of black worms or grubs, bathe the face for fifteen minutes with warm water in which a little borax has been dissolved. This will soften the skin and the heads can easily be removed with the fingers, or by placing a watch key over them and gently pressing down. Upon removing the key, the grub will be found imbedded therein. Follow this with an application of " Marvelone," and repeat, if not effectual at first. For sallowness and moth spots, out door exer- cise is strongly recommended. A tablespoon ful of salt in a glass of water taken before breakfast, three mornings every week, will also be found very efficacious. This, in conjunction with u Marvelone/' will usually effect a cure. Pock marks can be almost obliterated by fre- quent use of warm sweet almond oil. With this, rub the face thoroughly, and always use warm water for washing it and, in a short time, decided improvement will be apparent, as proved in cases within our knowledge, where this treatment has been persistently and faithfully followed. Face Eruptions. 51 Moles can be removed by touching them, every other day, with nitric acid or lunar caustic. If containing hair, extract before application. Redness of the nose is caused by bad circula- tion and impure blood. Apply " Marvelone " at night, and take half a teaspoonful of flowers of sulphur in milk. As all skin diseases are more or less contagious, the indiscriminate use of combs, brushes and towels should be avoided. Ladies and gentlemen will find a positive cure for the worst cases of eruption or pimpled face, blackheads, ring- worms, freckles, frost-bites, tan, sallowness, red noses, red hands, and all skin blemishes, including wrinkles, in Mrs. Emms' Marvelone, which leaves the complexion of ala- baster brilliancy. Apply at night, wash with pure white castile soap in the morning, and dry carefully. Afterward, dust the face with rye flour, which is both healing and cooling. While using " Marvelone," Mrs. Emms' Medi- cated Powder Eags, will be found very grateful and very beneficial to the complexion. 52 How She Became Beautiful. CHAPTER XII. Removal of Superfluous Hair. " Misfortune does not always wait on vice, Nor is success the constant guest of virtue." —Havar&s Eegulus. 44 VX7HY are we so afflicted, and what is the cause of this mortifying misfortune ? " are questions that are very frequently pro- pounded to us. That superfluous hair is a comparatively modern evil, increasing constantly, afflicting old and young alike, must be acknowledged. From sad experi- ence and corroborating testimony, we are com- pelled to believe that it results, in part, from the extensive use of vaseline. Ladies who use cold cream and liquid cosmetics, should exercise extreme care in their selection and satisfy them- selves that they do not contain this ingredient. Sweet almond oil may be used with impunity, to soften the skin, as it is perfectly harmless and very reliable authority pronounces it a foe to the development of hair. To the afflicted, we would say, if the hairs are few, do not extract them as they are sure to Removal of Superfluous Hair. 53 return accompanied by several companions, but keep them cut close. Avoid the use of warm water, as this promotes the growth of hair, as does, also, exposure to the light. For the removal of superfluous hair, electricity is often used, and sometimes with success, but in many cases, it has proved a total failure. One young lady tried this treatment twice, the second time after an interval of six months, but the hair returned, heavier than ever. And yet the operation was performed by a specialist who had been successful in another case and who had, also, removed a large mole of thirty years' stand- ing, from the upper lip of a patient. Another lady had a decided moustache removed by the usual electric process, but the effect upon the facial nerves was such that she was deprived of eyesight for nearly a year, and the loss threat- ened to be permanent. Another lady, after this treatment, was afflicted with partial paralysis of the face, which was very perceptible whenever she laughed. That superfluous hair is contagious, we feel almost compelled to believe, as in one family it appeared, first upon one, then another, until a girl in her teens showed unmistakable signs of 54 How She Became Beautiful. a light beard. The utmost precaution, therefore, should be exercised in regard to the promiscuous use of towels, brushes, and other toilet articles. After making the subject of superfluous hair a study for several years, and after an unsuccessful trial of many depilatories, a sure remedy for this mortifying trouble has been evolved. In testing any preparation, faithful and per- sistent use is imperative. To destroy blemishes of this character, is a work of time, and declar- ing an article worthless, after a brief trial, may be unjustly condemning an excellent one. Any remedy that will instantly remove the hair, is necessarily very powerful and, therefore, danger- ous; but Mrs. Emms' Superfluous Hair Eradi- cator, can be employed with perfect safety, and without any of the danger accompanying the use of electricity. To accomplish the desired result may require weeks .of constant application, but, if faithfully and persistently used, success will reward the effort, and permanent removal of the hair be secured. The 4 ' Eradicator" will, also, be found invalu- able for removing, speedily, the fine, downy hair from the face, neck and arms. In all cases, the cure will be facilitated, if the affected parts be Hints Upon Traveling. 55 bathed frequently with almond oil or rancid olive oil. " He that may hinder mischief And yet permits it, is an accessary." Take advantage, then, of the sure antidote to this mischief, which is the result of much study and experiment, and if your druggist cannot furnish you, send to P. 0. Box 650, Albany, N. Y., for Mrs. Emms' Superfluous Hair Eradicator. CHAPTER XIII. Hints Upon Traveling. " His travel has not stopped hirn As you suppose, nor altered any freedom, But made him far more clear and excellent ; It drains the grossness of his understanding And renders active and industrious spirits ; He that knows men's manners, must of necessity Best know his own, and mend those by examples ; 'Tis a dull thing to travel like a mill-horse Still in the place he was born in, round and blinded." —Beaumont and Fletcher. 'TpHE New York World is authority for the following bit of sensible advice : " It is the wisest thing in the world for a woman traveling alone, to regard all men, whom she may meet, as gentlemen, and to manifest that conviction when- 56 How She Became Beautiful. ever approached by them. A cad will usually take great pains not to dispel this illusion when he finds himself taken for a gentleman. k ' Men have a beautiful regard for womankind in the abstract. They may be quite capable of abusing the particular woman dependent, upon them, bat, as a rule, they are always ready to exhibit courtesy and kindness toward the woman on the street, in the horse-cars and in railway travel — especially if chance seems to demand their protection or their assistance." Travel cannot improve features, but it gives expression — for expression is the product of impression — to those who endeavor " By foreign arts," domestic faults to mend, Enlarge the notions and the views extend ; The useful science of the world to know, Which books can never teach, nor pedants show." Not imitating the traveler of whom Cowper speaks in his "'Progress of Error," who, " Returning, proclaims by many a grace, By shrugs, and strange contortions of his face How much a dunce that has been sent to roam Excels a dunce that has been kept at home." The woman who travels should, if she can afford it, have her undergarments entirely of silk. Hints Upon Traveling. 57 It will be found more comfortable and will not need so frequent change as linen, besides being cooler and a better protection against taking cold. Pearl colored surah, is best for this purpose, but pongee, which is considerably cheaper, may be substituted. This was first introduced by Mrs. Potter, and it is much used by the theatrical profession, as it laundries equally as well as mus- lin or linen. Mrs. Langtry and Mary Anderson use pale gray silk/ and Bernhardt always wears the heav- iest Japanese crepe, in dull tints of pink and blue, and she has never taken cold or been afflic- ted with hoarseness since wearing these gar- ments. The traveling night-robe should be of some thin woolen material, as this furnishes the best protection against the damp sheets one is likely to encounter, in hotels and sleeping cars. For comfort or protection in cases of accident or emergency, while traveling, the most desirable night-robe, is one of black china or surah silk, made in " Mother Hubbard" style, the shirred yoke being drawn up with colored ribbons, and the neck and sleeves finished with black or white lace. 58 How She Became Beautiful. The silk petticoat, also, is invaluable for travel- ing wear. A black, or any dark colored silk, with deep hem or ruffles, gored to fit the hips for stout people, and full straight skirts for thin ladies, can be purchased ready made. The traveling outfit is never complete without one or more of Mrs. Emms' Self- supplying Pow- der Bags. They will keep the skin free from the soreness resulting from car dust and cinders, and will impart a look of freshness and cleanliness during the entire journey. Since they supply their own powder, they are always ready for use, and a single trial will fully establish their merits. The Use and Abuse of Perfumes. 59 CHAPTER XIV. The Use and Abuse of Perfumes. "Her form was fresher than the morning rose When the dew wets its leaves ; unstained and pure As is the lily,- or the mountain snow."— Thomson. A FAINT, delicate perfume is far preferable to - ^ strong scents, which surely do not betoken good taste or good breeding, and many ladies have small sachet bags fastened in all their apparel, perfumes being worn in any place and every place, except on the handkerchief. Among dainty ladies, a distinctive perfume, that invests all their possessions as well as their per- sons, has become as much a part of their per- sonnel as the tone of their voice or other idio- syncrasy. The Creole women of New Orleans use orris root exclusively, and never occupy a room with- out leaving behind a faint, delicate odor like that of violets. They use it in everything — in their powder, in sachets that are placed among their gloves, their linen, their laces. French women use a powder called " Cordova,' 5 and their apparel is permeated with the delicate, but lasting perfume peculiar to this. 60 How She Became Beautiful. One New York lady has a perfume that is the envy of all the women of her acquaintance — an odor of carnations, which is as spicy and refresh- ing as that from the flowers themselves — the secret of obtaining which, she alone possesses and jealously guards. Another clings to the delicious, old-fashioned lavender and adds a teaspoonful to her bath, every morning. Sachets of it hang in her closets and are laid among all her "belongings." Another lady, fond of oriental perfumes, has an incense jar, in which she burns sticks of Chinese incense, allowing the smoke to perme- ate her garments. And so a lady of fashion chooses her distinct- ive perfume and anything that she has ever used, a book she has read, or a ribbon she has worn, retains some faint memory of her. Perfumes are not, however, a necessity, but one thing is indispensable to the well-dressed woman, and that is, as Mrs. Leslie says, an " atmosphere of freshness, so characteristic of the upper classes in England, well-groomed they call themselves, and a young Englishman, what- ever else you may say of him, does suggest the idea of buckets of water, sponges, towels, combs The Use and Abuse of Perfumes. til and brushes. So, in a more subdued style, should the well-dressed woman, whether her costume be of cotton, wool, silk, or cloth of gold." While it will be conceded by all that mental and spiritual graces are of highest importance, and should receive especial culture, yet it is, also, true that one duty, peculiar to woman, is "that of beautifying the earth and counteracting, so far as possible, any sordid or unlovely influences that are ever struggling for mastery." u Some souls lose all things but the love of beauty, And by that love they are redeemable. For in love and beauty they acknowledge good, And good is QodP MRS. EMMS' MARVELONE FOR THE COMPLEXION Ladies and Gentlemen will find a positive cure for the worst case of Eruptive or Pimpled Face, Blackheads, Ringworms, Freckles, Frost Bites, Tan, Sallowness, Red Noses, Red Hands, and all skin Blem- ishes, including Wrinkles, in Marvelone, the use of which produces a complexion of Alabaster Brilliancy. It has never failed in any case, and clears the skin to such an extent, that cosmetics can be entirely avoided, as all impurities vanish forever with its use. PRICE 50 CENTS. Mrs. Emms' Self-Supplying Powder Rags, (MEDICATED.) A Secret from the Toilet of a Prominent Society Actress. Invaluable for general use, for the Theatre and Party, Summer Outings, Traveling, etc., also receiving highest commendation for Gentlemen to use after shaving. The " rag " supplies its own powder, and is conceded to be the most ingenious toilet article ever offered to the public. 3?rice 15 Cents. MRS. EMMS' Superfluous : Hair : Eradicator. Removes Superfluous Hair from the Face, Neck and Arms ; also the fine downy hair with which ladies of middle age are sometimes afflicted, and without the danger accom- panying electricity, which has caused facial paralysis in many cases, besides avoiding the unpleasant publicity attend- ing such treatments. If directions are faithfully followed, the " Eradicator ' ' will prove a permanent cure, and one dollar covers all expense, no renewal being necessary. If your druggist cannot furnish it, forward address and one dollar, and we will send it, postage paid. Correspondence confidential. Mrs. A. H. EMMS, P. O. Box 650. Albany, N. Y. " Bontravato" for Perspiring Feet. Supplies a long-felt necessity and is warranted to cure the most stubborn cases; decided improvement being noticeable after a few applications. ^rice 15 Cents, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 11 021 062 765 M ■ - . » .jffl! pi ' T> " - >T, '#' * - "Ss*"i&^.^ '