iW HWHimH w iiii i iiimtw IHIffiftWtfffflTf llirmTlTnf I WONDERS or THE OOLDEM WE5T R. Van Dine mmm GopyrightN^. COPYRIGHT DEPOSre GREAT FALLS FROM BELOW~YELLOWSTONE PARK. —Page 121. THE WONDERS OF THE GOLDEN WEST. BEING A GRAPHIC ELUCIDATION OF A THOUSAND MARVELOUS SPECTACLES WITNESSED IN CROSSING THE CONTINENT IN A PALACE CAR — DEPICTING THE CONTIGUITY OF TWO OCEANS AND THE SCENIC SPLENDORS OF THE WESTERN SECTION OF OUR GLORIOUS REPUBLIC — THE " LURE " OF THE GREAT WEST IS A LIVING FACT, AND THE AUTHOR TELLS WHY VISITORS AND TOUR- ISTS RETURN TO THE REGIONS OF SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS, INTERMINGLED WITH BRIGHT SUNSHINE AND EVER-BLOOMING FLOWERS. BY JOHN R. VAN DINE. ILLUSTRATED. New York : J. S. OGILVIE PUBLISHING COMPANY, 57 Rose Street. I ~" V^A copyright, 1909; by John R. Van Dine. g^CI.A25G3 68 CONTENTS OHAPTEB PAGE I Notes of Travei. — Westward, Ho! 33 II The Splendors of the Canadian Rockies 45 III Seattle — The A.-Y.-P. Exposi- • TION 59 IV The Pacific Coast — The Golden Gate 73 V Southern California — The Great American Desert 89 VI Salt Lake City — The Mormon Metropolis . 103 VII The Wonders of Yellowstone National Park 109 VIII Scenic Colorado — Pike's Peak — Garden of the Gods 133 IX Homeward Bound — ^Passing Com- ments 153 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PAGE Gbeat Falls from Below — Yellow- stone Park Frontispiece Our Special Train 39 Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier, Laggan, Alberta, Can 47 A Glimpse of the Canadian Rockies 51 The ** California " Party at the Big Trees, Santa Cruz, Cal 82 Hotel Del Monte, Del Monte, Cal. 83 Southern California 89 The Terrace at Mammoth Hot Springs 125 A Rocky Mountain Lake 135 Summit of Pike's Peak 144 The Author 159 1^ INTRODUCTION The following sketches of travel are appended as a simple, unadorned account of a very interesting tour to the Pacific Coast, which I earnestly trust will prove of interest to my fellow tourists, being a memento of a memorable event, and, moreover, that the observations recorded will interest and possibly inspire those who have not as yet gazed upon the wonders and scenic grandeur of the Western sec- tion of our glorious country, including a section of our neighbor on the north — Canada — to take the trip and thereby view the "Greatest and Grandest Show on Earth" through their own optics. Seated in a Pullman palace car, the reader (in imagination) is taken from New York through the Central West, touching or crossing twenty-one States, two Provinces in Canada and a portion of British Columbia, penetrating the heart of the Canadian Rockies — stopping at Banff, the Switzerland of North America, viewing beautiful Lake Louise — the Lake of the Clouds, and the Great Glacier of the Selkirks, hemmed in by snow-capped 29 So Introduction mountain peaks, colossal in magnitude and beautiful beyond description. Re-entering Uncle Sam's domain, we stop at Seattle, the rising metropolis of the great North- west, viewing the marvelous exhibits of the Alaska- Yukon-Pacific Exposition. We also take the reader through Port- land, the Rose City ; the Williamette Val- ley (a veritable Garden of Eden) ; we cross the famous San Francisco Bay and enter the new San Francisco and view the beautiful Golden Gate, the Big Trees of Calif ol-nia, Del Monte and Old Monterey, where we enjoy the famous seventeen-mile ride. We view gigantic Mount Shasta, beautiful orange groves and fruit orch- ards, passing through the Great American Desert, stopping at Salt Lake City, spending five days amid the wonders of Yellowstone National Park. We view the Rockies of Colorado, the Grand Can- yon of the Arkansas, ascend Pike's Peak, traverse the Garden of the Gods, the Crip- ple Creek gold and silver mines, stopping at Kansas City and St. Louis, etc.^ — a trip covering nearly 11,000 miles. Impressions recorded on the spot. The Authoe. Lawbence, L. I. NOTES OF TRAVEL — WEST- WARD, HOI The WONDERS of the GOLDEN WEST CHAPTER I Notes of Travel — Westward^ Ho! New York, June 30, 1909. — We are about to take a trip to the Far West — aspirations of many years now happily to be realized. "All aboard!" The train moves slowly at first out of the Grand Central Station, but soon we are skirting the banks of the noble Hud- son, so refreshing after leaving the hot, dusty city. A brief stop is made at Al- bany, passing Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo. Then, after refreshing the inner man in the dining-car, we in due time re- tire to our various sections in the Pullman sleeper. No husband can delude wifey about being detained downtown and she knows his whereabouts — both day and night. Thursday, July 1, finds us in Detroit, Mich. We simply get a bird's-eye view of the metropolis as we are transported across 33 S4 Wonders of The Golden West the Detroit River and are soon speeding over vast fields of corn, wheat, oats and well-cultivated farms of Michigan. At this point we seemingly gain one hour on Father Time, as we regulate our time- pieces backward one hour, corresponding to Central time. At Battle Creek, evi- dently a flourishing town, we note numer- ous cereal manufactories in full blast. The sand dunes at Michigan City were par- ticularly interesting. CHICAGO The blue waters of Lake Michigan at- test that we are nearing the great metropo- lis of the Central West, Chicago. Here all is bustle. The rush of traffic causes a Niagara of sounds. The city teems with life. Four sightseeing automobiles are soon whirhng the ninety-three members of our party through the busy business sec- tion, which contains skyscrapers on a par with little old New York, thence along the splendid boulevard skirting Lake Michi- gan to the grand public parks for which Chicago is justly noted. After the ordeal of a continuous ride from New York, with the thermometer cutting up high jinks, the refreshing breezes from Lake Michigan were truly delightful and fully appreci- ated. We voted Chicago a "wonder," destined to become even greater with the coming decades. Notes of Travel 85 Friday, July 2. — Shortly after sunrise we cross the Father of Waters, the Mis- sissippi River, always an inspiring sight to Easterners, and a little later dash into St. Paul, the Twin City. Our itinerary precluded sightseeing here, so we shook hands with St. Paul, so to speak, and pro- ceeded westward. We now traverse the vast farming sec- tion of Minnesota, luxuriant in vegetation. As we proceed over the prairie lands we note that the buildings are mostly sur- rounded with trees, very similar in appear- ance to our willows, which act as protec- tive agencies when the tornadoes sweep over this section. Occasionally we observe a "dug out," an excavation not unlike a cellar, having a roof of sods, with steps leading to the "lower regions." NORTH DAKOTA We cross the State line and swing into North Dakota. As the eye sweeps the horizon, the land appears to be as level as a board, so to speak, and, like Minnesota, is very luxuriant in vegetation. Space seems practically unlimited out here, far from the maddening crowd. Here the farmer is monarch of all he sur- veys. Droves of sleek-looking cattle are browsing in vast tracts of clover or alfalfa. The horn of plenty is in evidence. Who 36 Wonders of The Golden West enjoys life in its truest sense more than does the pros]3erous farmer? At various stops along the way we alight to pluck wild flowers and grasses, while the amateur photographers get in their "dark" work. Every soul aboard the train is enjoying the trip, anticipating greater things to come. We become better acquainted with our traveling companions and confidences are freely exchanged. The occupants of the various "sections" inaugurated "social calls" and every one was happy. The train stopped at Harvey, N. D., a typical Western town, profusely decorated with flags and bunting. A jolly automobile party serenaded us with the latest melodies of the day and the populace waved handkerchiefs as our train pulled out of the station. At various railroad crossings where the tracks are low snow drifts in winter are apt to stop trains re- gardless of schedules; here we observe curiously built contrivances called snow fences. A few of the city people mistook them for grape arbors. PROVINCE OF SASKATCHEWAN Saturday, July 3. — At sunrise we awoke to find ourselves beyond Uncle Sam's domain at a little station called Pas- qua, in the Province of Saskatchewan, Canada. We had passed through Portal, Notes of Travel 37 which is on the boundary line, while we were in the Land of Nod and our merchan- dise had been duly inspected by the Cana- dian customs officials. Moose Jaw, romantic appellation, was our next stop, where we alighted to view the landscape o'er. We again reset our watches backward one hour to conform with Mountain time, a difference of two hours from that of Eastern time. See what one gains in time by going westward ! For the simple life we commend the prairie lands of Saskatchewan. As far as the eye can sweep there is scarcely any sign of habitation. Occasionally we passed a little settlement of one-story houses, which reminded one of the days of the pioneers. However, the scene changes as we touch at Swift Current, which is in the centre of a very«flourishing agricultural district, the soil being particularly adapted for grain farming and is said to be rapidly filling up with American settlers. One doesn't need to be a very close ob- server to learn that our Uncle Sam is not the sole owner of all the fertile soil, for indeed Canada must be reckoned with on that score. PROVINCE OF ALBERTA The train halts for a few moments at Medicine Hat, a prosperous-looking town, 38 Wonders of The Golden West apparently the centre of ranching and farming district in the Province of Al- berta. The tourists made a dash for the neighboring stores, spending money reck- lessly for post cards, chewing gum and "sich" things. An Indian squaw came to- ward the train, and as several cameras were in line for a snapshot at her, she cun- ningly evaded capture by entering a con- venient car. Mrs. Indian evidently did not like the antics of the people from the cultured East; anyway she positively re- fused to have her photo taken. Our train was switched at a very remote spot, in order that a train could pass, and we improved the opportunity to investi- gate and explore the burrows inhabited by the cunning little prairie dogs. Mean- while the conductor of our party, accom- panied by a young lady hailing from the classic State of New Jersey, called upon a resident, a Scotch woman, who gave the visiting couple a warm welcome, stating during the social call that the aforesaid young lady from New Jersey was the first white woman she had "laid eyes on in thirteen months" and that her nearest neighbor resided eight miles distant. How is that for Lonelyville? The vast tracts of farming and prairie lands seemed al- most endless, so that we somewhat de- spaired reaching the goal of our ambitions i— to gaze upon the snowy mountains. It OUR SFECIAL TRAIN.— Page 39. Notes of Travel 39 was perhaps the only monotonous part of our trip. PULLMAN CAR LIFE Permit me right here to digress some- what by giving a glimpse of existence on a Pullman, inasmuch as we are to enjoy four more days ere reaching Seattle. From that city we shall, at various points, enjoy the comforts of the leading hotels of the Pacific Coast. From Chicago to Seattle we have the luxury of our own dining-car, but after reaching that point our diner will be de- tached. However, we shall then have to take chances. As to the daily routine en route being monotonous, that depends of course on circumstances, temperament, etc. The members of our party were a jolly set. Dull care, business anxieties, in fact all problems were left far, far behind. Most of us forgot there was such a place in ex- istence as New York. Every one was out for a good time and bound to have it! The usual routine at the beginning of the day is, of course, first breakfast, followed by reading, writing, chatting and gazing at the passing scenery. Midday luncheon is followed by conversation, social calls, games, reading and napping. Dinner is served from ^:30 to 7:30, after which '40 Wonders of The Golden West anything is in order. Recitations are ren- dered, singing was permitted or prohib- ited, depending mostly on the merits of the singer; for instance, some would sing who couldn't J while others could sing but wouldn't. We sang hymns and national anthems, but drew the line on *'Home, Sweet Home" — not because that was not dear to us, but rather to ward off any ten- dency to home-sickness. Sometimes there was fought a battle of pillows, in which the conflict was red hot without dire re- sults. Even some of the ministers proved good fighters and got "whipped," too, like the rest of us! Miss Margaret Winslow, a talented young lady, was indeed the human phono- graph, her impersonations in that line al- ways evoking generous applause, while Miss Kathryn Taylor rendered recitations which were highly appreciated by her fel- low tourists. At 10 o'clock P.M. nearly all the tour- ists were in the somnolent Land of Nod; at 11 o'clock the various kinds of snores, from falsetto to deep bass, were in full progress, broken only by the puffing of the engine ahead. At the little railway station, Brooks, we were informed by the agent in charge that we were now in the newly opened irrigation district of Alberta and that the Canadian Pacific Railway anticipated a ] Notes of Trcwel 41 great future from these vast tracts of land by the process of irrigation. At Calgary the train halts for a little while, giving us an opportunity to get a glimpse of this picturesque ranching city, sometimes termed *'The Sirloin of Can- ada." We note that Alberta occupies a somewhat similar position to Canada as does Kentucky to the United States ki regard to the breeding of horses, while the natural conditions in certain parts of Sas- katchewan are more suitable for mixed farming and dairying. The climate in this section is said to be very beneficial to those affected by pul- monary troubles. If the condition of the appetites of those on board the train be an indication of the healthfulness of the region through which we are passing, we will cheerfully cite it O. K. The Province of Alberta embraces 253,- 540 square miles. It is double the size of Great Britain and Ireland and larger than either Germany or France. This vast area has a population of less than two hundred thousand. While we are willing to admit the ad- vantages of "Sunny Alberta," we are not willing to give up our citizenship and swear allegiance to His Majesty the King. We are Yankees to the bone and proud of it. THE SPLENDORS OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES CHAPTER II The Splendors of the Canadian Rockies Sunday, July 4. — What a spectacle greets our vision as we behold snow- capped mountains — the long-looked-for Canadian Rockies! We were completely- surrounded and hemmed in by them. Truly a veritable Switzerland! How grand and majestic they appeared as they towered to dazzling heights above us, garbed in supernatural whiteness of matchless grandeur! Stages convey us to the Banff Springs Hotel, an ideal location, where the brac- ing mountain air enables one to do ample justice to an appetizing repast. The cheerful log fire was appreciated, too, on this summer morning. A religious service under the leadership of the Rev. Dr. Harper was held in an upper room of the hotel. Delegates to the coming Epworth League Convention at Seattle were present and much en- thusiasm prevailed. We were on for- eign soil, nevertheless "My Country 'Tis 45 46 Wonders of The Golden West of Thee" was sung with an intensity of feeling seldom witnessed in the States. BANFF^ THE BEAUTIFUL This certainly is no misnomer, for Banff is indeed beautifully situated 'mid immense mountain crags and peaks on the Bow River, in the valley bearing the same name, on the eastern slope of the Cana- dian Rockies. Banff is the property of the Canadian Government. This is a popular mountain resort for tourists from all parts of the globe. Several tourists at the hotel who had trotted around this mun- dane sphere enthusiastically affirmed that the mountain scenery here vies with that of the famous Alps in Switzerland. Here the snow-clad mountains stretch away as far as the vision can reach in every direction, one snowy peak rising above another in varied and sublime con- fusion. To the north rises Stony Squaw Mountain. Towering above this is Cas- cade Mountain, its sides ribbed and scarred by avalanche and tempest; then Mount Bundle looms before us at a height of 10,000 feet, its sides furrowed and trenched by snow slides. It was at this famous resort that we unexpectedly yet happily met an old-time friend. Miss Nellie Smith, who was re- turning East from Pasadena, Cal. We I < u < o o < w u < o The Canadian Rockies 47 enjoyed a lively stage ride up Tunnel Mountain and at its loftiest height the view of beautiful Bow Valley, the pic- turesque Bow River Falls below and the snow-capped mountains all about us on every side, making our environment in- deed superb. Many tourists climb this mountain as an appetizing walk before breakfast, and because of the magnificent view here attained it is frequented at all times of the day. Upon descending the mountain we rode to the Government Reservation and saw a herd of buffalo. Being in captivity they are very docile. Several members of our party climbed above an eagle's nest and brought down some real snow from the mountain. We were somewhat reluctant to leave this en- chanted region. BEAUTIFUL LAKE LOUISE Monday, July 5. — Our next point of interest is Laggan, where we leave the train. Stages and saddle ponies convey us up steep and rocky mountain roads to beautiful Lake Louise, the lake in the clouds, which lies at an elevation of 5,645 feet, shut in on every side by rocky snow- capped heights. Here amid the most lav- ish scenery and magnificent environment Nature can bestow is the lake, the loveli- ness and charm of which is beyond de- 48 Wonders of The Golden West scription. It is about a mile and a half long and half a mile broad. In close proximity is discerned the pure white snow field on Mount Victoria at a height of 10,000 or 12,000 feet. This moimt, joining with other lofty peaks, forms a beautiful expanse of snow and ice, and it was here that several members of our party witnessed the novelty of a real snow slide while viewing the splen- dors of the lake. The ladies simply went into ecstasies at this delightful spot, while others lin- gered and nearly missed the train. There was a shortage of stages and several were obliged to "foot it" down the mountain, a distance of nearly three miles. We were covered with dust, but enjoyed the "walk." Our train again gets under headway. As we proceed westward several of us who had industriously attempted hitherto to view the passing scenic splendors, jotting down our impressions "on the spot," were obliged to suspend operations indefinitely, simply because the increasing grandeur of the Canadian Rockies made note-taking impossible. Hence if what is to follow be not in "regular order," the defect cannot be remedied. We made a short stop at Field, a favo- rite resort for tourists. This is the gate- 5vay of the wonderful Yoho Valley. -This The Canadian Rockies 49 valley is now included within the confines of the Canadian National Park. Here the spectator gazes on Mount Stephen, a mass of rock towering 10,450 feet above sea level and 6,500 feet above the valley. The outlines of the peaks con- stituting the Great Cathedral, resplendent in beauty and overwhelming in grandeur, compel our deepest admiration. Cathe- dral Mountain, 10,204 feet high, is hap- pily named, as it bears a wonderful resemblance to a magnificent cathedral perched on the summit of the mountain. KICKING HORSE RIVER Who on this memorable trip will ever forget the Kicking Horse River, forming picturesque cascades, seemingly furious in its limited confines as it dashes through deep gorges in impotent rage, creating at times gorgeous waterfalls and roaring cataracts? The story of why the river was so called runs as follows: "An ex- ploration expedition was encamped on the banks of the Wapta, where a pack horse broke three of the leader's ribs by a kick. He lay unconscious for hours till his In- dians thought him dead and prepared to bury him, but as they bore him along he regained his senses. When he recovered he went to inspect his grave, that had been dug some little way from the camp, and 50 Wonders of The Golden West then fired by curiosity, determined to dis- cover where led the valley in which it had been intended to leave him forever. He explored it further and found it a prac- ticable way of crossing the mountains. Thus was the Kicking Horse River brought to light and received the name of a vicious animal which all unintentionally Had led to so important a discovery." THE GEEAT DIVIDE A short distance from Laggan the sum- mit ot the Rockies is reached, at which in- i^llfl^ P°'"t ^e pass the Great Divide, 5,269 feet above sea level. AU one ob- serves irom the train is a rustic arch span- ning a stream under which the waters di- vide^ two little brooks seemingly to the observer, but the little stream that devi- ates to the east, reinforced later by other waters eventually reaches Hudson Bay, while the httle rivulet turning to the west hnally empties into the Pacific. I re- marked to a fellow tourist, a clergyman, that there was material for a good sermon suggested by the finality of those appar- ently to us insignificant streams. He agreed with me, but no sermon was brought out from them during the trip. Ihis leads me to remark that most preach- ers are all right, but some will delve into musty books in order to be deep and pro- '" Jj ^^ m "^IM 9 ■y w iWMm i - lissjifi ^%^,' ^i^^ ■0' -JP^: A GLIMPSE OF THE CANADIAN RCCKIES. Page 51. The Canadian Rockies 51 found, often inducing drowsiness on the part of their hearers. What ringing ser- mons a preacher should dehver, especially after viewing these majestic, awe-inspir- ing Canadian Rockies! Ah, the divine message of these colossal peaks ! We pass great snow sheds, built di- rectly over the railroad tracks at certain points where the snows in winter from these colossal mountains ofttimes develop into vast snow slides. Patches of snow were in evidence along the roadbed on this day, July 5. The "Greatest Show on Earth" was on in earnest and exhilaration was stamped on every countenance. The contrast of long stretches of prairie lands to these awe-inspiring mountain peaks, capped with glistening snow towering toward the sky, and the gorgeous scenic splendors all about us evoked exclamations of delight. The "oh's!'; and "ah's!" "Just look on this side — is not that superb — magnifi- cent?" necessitated an enlarged vision to take it all in. Meanwhile the train keeps puffing at great rate as it continues on the up-grade, seemingly at times to us almost to the cloud line as we look below into deep canyons yawning to take us, "bag and baggage," should the train jump the track. However, we pin our faith in the engineer, who in due time brings us into Glacier, British Columbia, 52 Wonders of The Golden West a delightful stopping place for tourists in the heart of the Selkirks. The altitude here is 4,122 feet. THE GREAT GLACIER We are now anticipating a feast of de- light as the members of the party start forth to view at close range that colossal mountain of ice, the Great Glacier, neces- sitating a tramp of nearly three miles — a veritable "Rocky Road to Dublin." No stage can traverse it. As we proceed dan- gerous paths and mountain streams are crossed and various hindrances beset us. However, most of us had perused John Bunyan's "Pilgrim's Progress," and as several of the weary tourists fell by the w^ayside, we determined to reach the de- sired point if we were obliged to wade there. At last patience and persistence were rewarded as we stood before the gigantic spectacle — a wondrous mountain mass of ice. We entered the ice cave. The bluish hues from within are exceed- ingly fine. Probably thirty to forty per- sons can comfortably stand within the cave. The Doxology was sung with great enthusiasm and photos taken while here. The writer of these lines walked on the roof of this truly great wonder, and it seemed to be as solid as the "Rock of Ages," with this exception, while the The Canadian Rockies 53 glacier is receding on an average of 35 feet a year, caused by the rays of the sun, the "Rock of Ages" is not receding an iota! The environment here is sublime, as the outside world seems shut in by seem- ingly great mountains of ice, for in close proximity can be seen a group of glaciers embracing an area of over 150 square miles, while Mount Sir Donald, towering to dazzling heights, commands our ad- miration. "When in Rome do as the Romans do." So now again we regulate our timepieces, adjusting the hour hand back one hour, conforming to Pacific time, or three hours earlier than Eastern time. We shall re- verse the order when we proceed eastward. The C. P. R. R. has adopted the novel 24-o'clock schedule of time, thus abolish- ing the A.M. and p.m. by the new system. It seemed quite amusing to read at vari- ous stations from the train bulletin, for instance, that train No. 79, due at Glacier at 13:45 o'clock, was 15 minutes late. Why should not that system prevail uni- versally? Tuesday, July 6. — At 4 o'clock a.m. our train moves out of Glacier, passing over the great engineering feat called "The Loop." About twenty-two miles from Glacier the lUecillewalt River runs through the Albert Canyon, a gorge so marvelous that most of the trains stop for 54 Wonders of The Golden West a short while to permit passengers to view its wonders. Our train, which arrived here at an unseemly hour in the morning, stopped, but unfortunately the writer of these lines was not awakened in time — was "caught napping" — consequently missed the spectacle. To add to my discomfiture, my wife had slipped out from the lower berth and gazed upon the wondrous scene and returning informed me "it was just grand," while others with fiendish triumph tauntingly said, "Wouldn't have missed it for the world!" "Oh, it was superb!" "Be- yond description!" At Sigamous Junction we stop ten min- utes and view beautiful Shuswap Lake, a magnificent body of water extending for fifty miles amid picturesque environments. The climate in this part of the Northwest is exceedingly fine and bracing. They told us that people actually lived here to such an advanced age that unless such met with fatal accidents they were obliged to move south into the "States" when they wished to "cash in their checks" — that is, die. BESIDE DEEP GORGES Thompson River, now running parallel with us to the right, finally empties into the Fraser River, and then we enjoy the antics of that interesting river, as it at TJie Canadian Rockies '55 times is narrowed by mountainous walls and goes dashing through deep gorges with frightful velocity. Meanwhile our train is winding in serpentine fashion through ledges of rock, at times right close to the mouth of a deep abyss, causing one to thrill with a peculiar sensation for the time being. A young lady said to me, "What if our train left the rails?" "It would mean simply a case of good-by all," I hastened to assure her. Shall we ever forget Fraser Canyon? I trow not! The achievement of constructing a rail- way through and across the Canadian Rockies was indeed colossal and beneficial to mankind, but there is one thing almost impossible of achievement — namely, see- ing the Canadian Rockies through an- other's "specs." Their beauty and gran- deur must be seen through one's own optics; mere descriptions or the camera will not, cannot do them justice. AGAIN IN UNCLE SAM^S DOMAIN At North Bend the entire party was photographed, and everybody was happy. We finally reached Sumas, the boundary line, and Uncle Sam's men inspected our baggage. It was amusing to think that when we passed over into Canada en route our baggage was looked into by the Cana- dian customs agents, the ceremony was 56 Wonders of The Golden West repeated upon our entrance into British Columbia and finally Uncle Sam holds us up to learn if we brought anything duti- able from a "foreign land." To my way of thinking, all this tomfoolery should be abolished. Why should not all of North America be subject to and under the au- thority of the United States of America? Let the Stars and Stripes wave over this wonderful section of country. Shall we some day take it by divine right of con- quest — that is, if all other methods fail? One indissoluble Union forever! We glide into the great State of Wash- ington in the darkness — very much to our regret — a State already demonstrating it- self worthy of its exalted name. We an- ticipate scanning the blue waters of Puget Sound, the white-capped Olympics and the peaks of the Cascades, with its greatest spectacle. Mount Rainier. SEATTLE— THE A.-Y.-P. EXPOSITION CHAPTER III Seattle — The A.-Y.-P. Exposition Wednesday^ July 7. — Here we are at last, no longer sojourners or aliens on for- eign soil, but "at home" in the great bus- tling city of the Northwest, Seattle, where the Stars and Stripes are waving in great profusion. The city appears in gala at- tire. What means this grand array? Trains were bringing hosts of tourists into the metropolis. At the Union Station an incoming Canadian host of Ep worth Leaguers, full of enthusiasm, start an im- promptu praise service by singing the Doxology. After the process of getting settled at our several hotels and stopping places, we go en masse to the large Armory building, where the International Convention of the Epworth League is about to open. The exterior and interior of the vast audi- torium were gaily decorated with the na- tional emblems of the United States and Canada. The great convention opened in due form and the addresses and singing were enthusiastic. One of the speakers, 69 60 Wonders of The Golden West in alluding to the long trip across the con- tinent and the great sights we had wit- nessed, including the vastness of our coun- try and particularly the wonders of the great Northwestern section, said that we would return to our respective homes nec- essarily changed men and women, having enlarged conceptions of our glorious coun- try, of its resources and opportunities and our responsibilities and duties as citizens of the same. During one of the meetings "My Country, 'Tis of Thee," was enthusi- astically rendered, the Canadian delegates singing as heartily as did the rest. Then the great convention reciprocated by sing- ing "God Save the King," an innovation to most of us. Seattle is a charming city, nestling on the breast of Puget Sound, having a splendid harbor big enough for Uncle Sam's warships to steam back and forth without difficulty. Seattle, like Quebec, is a city built upon a hill or hills. Its streets are cleanly. It bespeaks prosper- ity, everywhere apparent. It is wide awake — a metropolis where things are being done. Its steep hills are being rap- idly cut down or graded. Buildings are going up and business is forging ahead. Keep your eyes on Seattle, for it is a win- ner. Its delightful climate and go-ahead- iveness of its people make a strong combi- ' nation. Seattle — The Eocposition 61 The city boasts a population of nearly 300,000, with a gain of 25,000 yearly. The suburbs abound with charming resi- dences and cozy bungalows. We enjoyed a delightful sail on Lake Washington and a trip on Puget Sound around Bainbridge Island. It was there we were promised a luscious clambake. We waited — in vain. The shrill whistle of our steamer blew, the waters of the sound were blue, while we felt unmistakably "blue" because we missed the ''clambake!" THE A.-Y.-P. EXPOSITION The exposition was beautiful, instruc- tive, inspiring, entertaining and exhaust- ing, the latter because there was so much to see, and our time to view the landscape o'er at that interesting point was neces- sarily limited to two days, so we were obliged to "go it" some. The purposes of the exposition were to exploit the Alaska- Yukon Territory and the Pacific Coast States, also to foster commercial relations with all countries bordering on the Pacific Ocean. There is no doubt that all of these laudable objects will be attained and the A.-Y.-P. Exposition will hasten the con- summation. Here we see the personification of ma- terial progress and culture as represented in the vast sea of storehouses of exhibits — 62 Wonders of The Golden West a veritable panorama — a feast for the gods, as it were. The transcendentally beautiful exposi- tion buildings, the gardens of sweet- scented flowers, the picturesque cascades, the exquisite walks complete a scenario of perfection, and when viewed at night, the vast grounds and buildings emblazoned and resplendent with myriads of electric lights, the spectacle is stupendously fine, beyond description. To one who, for the first time, views the products of this, the great Northwest, the exhibits prove not only a surprise, but a revelation. Perfectly amazing to me were the exhibits particularly from the States of Washington, Oregon and California. An entire day can be profitably spent in viewing the exhibits of those three States and then one could easily spend another day to make sure that one took "every- thing in" from these three interesting, in fact marvelous, commonwealths. Such corn, wheat, oats, alfalfa, apples, oranges, lemons, grapefruit, sugar beets, potatoes, prunes, apricots, nuts, minerals and nu- merous other products too numerous to mention! And those specimens of big trees were truly wonderful to behold — ^but seeing is believing! Seattle — The Eooposition 68 WASHINGTON The industries of the State of Washing- ton are here exhibited, a few of which may- be mentioned, such as the bee culture, coal mining, dairying, wheat farming, stock raising, lumbering, fisheries, fruit grow- ing, poultry raising, truck gardening. In the Washington State Building some po- tatoes of Jumbo proportions were seen, the average yield, it was asserted, being 400 to 600 bushels per acre. The loyalty of the Western folks to their respective States is really refreshing. A man who hails from California will swear by that State till the cows come home, and the man who lives in Washing- ton State will picture an earthly paradise to any man who will come there, roll up his sleeves and is not afraid of work. OREGON While viewing the exhibits in the Ore- gon Building I met a genuine Oregon tiller of the soil, who affirmed that Oregon was by far the greatest State in the Union — could raise anything that Washington did, and "a derned sight better'n bigger!" "Can Oregon lead California?" I inno- cently inquired, and he quickly responded : "Yes, sirree, we've got Calif orny beat way 64 Wonders of The Golden West out'n her boots! Why, bless yer heart, Oregon's top soil is six to eight feet deep, an' we don't have to irrigate as they do in Californy." He further elucidated the in- formation that any farm less than 200 acres in Oregon "was only a garden"; that a neighbor of his had a field of corn, the rows being "four miles long." I did not dispute that whatsoever. If he had put those rows of corn ten miles long it would have been just the same to me, be- cause after viewing the exhibits from Ore- gon one is prepared to believe that nothing was impossible in that great State. But I firmly believe that the finest apples, so far as beauty and size "go," are grown in Oregon. It is worthy of note that the annual rainfall in Oregon is ample for the production of fruits of all kinds with- out the aid of irrigation in that portion of the State lying west of the Cascade Moun- tains. They will tell you at "the Fair" that Oregon is rich in natural wealth and abounding in natural beauty, young and undeveloped, busy, invigorating, with a climate unsurpassed. CiLIFORNIA The California Building is in the old mission style of architecture. Here one views sub-tropical gardens, trees bearing fruit and the mineral and agricultural re- Seattle — The Exposition 65 sources of this wonderful State are herein displayed to attract and interest the visi- tor. It makes a Long Islander marvel to behold the exhibits of California. The fruit exhibit is truly marvelous, while the vegetable and grain exhibits are stupen- dous. Washington, Oregon and Califor- nia are indeed three wonderful States. We also visited the Government Build- ing and its varied departments. The Alaska Building, with its exhibit of the resources of that Territory, was indeed very edifying. Its gold and vast mineral wealth, its furs and its agricultural prod- ucts proclaim it a land of promise and great resources. The Philippine Build- ing, with the exhibits of Uncle Sam's new accession, was interesting. The Forestry Building, with its imposing colonnade of giant fir logs hewn from the forest, houses a display of the Northwest's two greatest industries, lumbering and fisheries. The Agriculture Building, the Manufactures Building, Machinery Building, Fine Arts Building, Canada Building, the European Building and others were duly visited and their respective exhibits were hugely en- joyed and appreciated beyond expression, but I will refrain from further details lest I tire the reader. However, it was a beau- tiful, a stupendous exposition worth cross- ing the continent to behold, and the writer deeply regretted not having more time 66 Wonders of The Golden West here to revel in the vast panorama of ex- hibits that were so profusely displayed for the edification of all concerned. Surely we shall bear away to our Eastern homes bright and lasting impressions of this splendid exposition of the Northwest. Sunday, July 11. — This is our last day in Seattle. It was Epworth League Rally Day at the Armory Building. At the afternoon meeting the vast auditorium was filled. Bishop Quayle gave a power- ful discourse on the dignity of labor, sway- ing the great audience in a wonderful manner by his impassioned eloquence. It was a memorable occasion. During our stay in town we had gazed upon the snow-capped Olympics, but un- fortunately the atmosphere was not suffi- ciently clear for us to distinguish the out- lines of Mount Rainier. Au re voir, Se- attle! Monday, July 12. — The train has been on the "go" all night and shortly after the dawn of day we crossed the Columbia and Williamette rivers. PORTLAND^ THE ROSE CITY Soon we found ourselves within the lim- its of Portland. Some cities prove a dis- appointment, but not so Portland. This was apparent when we boarded an obser- vation car and traversed the business, then Seattle — The Exposition 67 later the residential sections. A very en- joyable ride is the ascent of Portland Heights, viewing with increasing admira- tion the elegant homes with their spacious lawns of green. It was apparent as we proceeded why this was called the "Rose City," as in evidence thereof gardens and hedges of the most exquisite roses we had ever beheld greeted our vision ; the air was permeated with their fragrance. Each yard seemed to rival its neighbor in beauty. It was rivalry among the roses. The view becomes decidedly picturesque as we continue to ascend, when lo! far be- low is spread the splendid panorama of the Williamette Valley, resplendent in its verdure and vegetation, such fine farms, quaint and lovely, bespeaking contentment and prosperity. Proceeding in the ascent we finally reach the summit of Council Crest, where we view the landscape o'er from heights sublime. The name should be Inspiration Point, for from this exalted point we beheld the beautiful city of Port- land at our feet, set in the valley on the Williamette River. From this elevation, when the atmosphere is perfectly clear, one can view the area of several States, gaze into twenty counties and discern five snow- capped mountain peaks, viz: Mount Rai- nier towering 14,519 feet; St. Helens, 10,500 feet; Mount Adams, 12,000 feet; Mount Hood, 11,225 feet, and Mount Jef- 68 Wonders of The Golden West ferson, 10,206 feet. If there be a spot on this mundane sphere to eclipse this, we know it not! It was the most enchanting scene I had ever beheld. We also visited the Oregon Forestry Building, the one permanent structure which commemorates the 1905 fair and which houses one of the finest forestry ex- hibits now extant. We were informed that roses bloom here out of doors in this beautiful city until Christmas. Portland is splendidly located. It boasts a population of more than 260,- 000 and is rapidly growing. The lecturer on our observation car de- clared the scenery from Council Crest to be superior to that of any city in America. He also submitted figures to prove that Portland is by far the healthiest city in the United States, largely because of its pure drinking water, coming direct from the mountains. Portland, thy fame shall spread even to the East, from whence we came. Fair city, adieu! Tuesday, July 13. — Our train has been on the "go" all night and the morning sun- light finds us still in Oregon. Great foot- hills are all about us, while in the distance we catch a glimpse of the Cascade Moun- tains, and notwithstanding all this scenic splendor and vastness, why do masses crowd into the nerve-destroying cities? Seattle — The Exposition 69 Ah ! life must be sweet amid these moun- tains. Why are they not peopled? Three cheers for the great Northwest ! The beau- tiful Roque River Valley, with its great stacks of golden wheat glistening under the bright July sun, and the well culti- vated fields form a pastoral scene worthy of a poet's pen or an artist's brush. One is almost inspired to become a Western farmer. At Ashland the train halts twenty minutes to "ice up." It is a typical Western town, being 1,890 feet above sea level, 431 miles north of San Francisco. We now pass over deep ravines as two en- gines pull us up steep inclines; thus w^e ride for hundreds of miles and our eyes never grow weary because the scene is ever changing, for the Supreme Artist of the Universe has painted these everlasting hills with a master hand, commanding the admiration and adoration of all His crea- tures. MOUNT SHASTA We are thrilled with joy as at last we catch a glimpse of snow-capped Mount Shasta, which stands like a colossal senti- nel between earth and heaven! This spec- tacle was to me the reflection of the Great Builder of the Universe, who holdeth even the mountains in His hands. Distance is deceiving, particularly when the atmos- phere is clear. The mount seemed near 70 Wonders of The Golden West at hand, yet we knew a day's ride would elapse ere we should reach its base. We are now in Southern Oregon, speeding to- ward the great State of California. Oregon has exceeded our expectations. Will California do likewise? THE PACIFIC COAST — THE GOLDEN GATE CHAPTER IV The Pacific Coast — The Golden Gate A SIGN-POST marks the State boundary, and we now actually pass into the great State of California. What Easterner has not aspired to tread upon its soil? The State that grows big trees and luscious fruits, where the climate is incomparable, where the rising sunbeams kiss the moun- tain tops, where the ocean calls out all the year "Come in, boys; the water's fine!" As, therefore, we glide over California soil we note first Shasta Valley, beautiful to the beholder, evidently profitable to the husbandmen and dwellers therein. The Shasta range seems of formidable propor- tions, as Mount Eddy looms before us at a height of nearly 10,000 feet. Mount Shasta, which has been in sight nearly all day and toward which we have been travel- ing as fast as steam could take us, now as- sumes gigantic proportions. The train descends into Sacramento Canyon below, forming almost a perfect loop, a ride weird and picturesque as we cross and re- cross the Sacramento River, finally arriv- 7^ ^ i74« Wonders of The Golden West ing at Shasta Springs, where we slake our thirst from the renowned waters direct from Mount Shasta, which looms above us 14,440 feet! We were surprised to find snow sheds in Northern California, but we were in- formed that only at a very high altitude snow impedes railway traffic, while in the valleys below snow is unknown. Wednesday, July 14. — The train dashes into Sacramento, where a stop of twenty minutes is made. We catch a glimpse of the dome of the capitol and in a short time arrive at Oakland, Cal. SAN FRANCISCO We immediately board a ferryboat for San Francisco. The view of beautiful San Francisco Bay from the upper deck was indeed superb. The newly arisen city loomed before us in all its peculiar gran- deur. How glad we feel to tread the streets of this magnificent metropolis of the Golden West ! The first thing in order was to secure a special observation car and view the various points of interest. The conductor acts as lecturer. We traverse Market Street in the business section and our "lecturer" proceeded to enlighten us as to the area that was literally destroyed in the great calamity of 1906. The Call Building, the Mint and also the General The Pacific Coast 75 Post Office Building were designated as having withstood the fire and earthquake. Our lecturer alwaj^s alludes to the late calamity as "the fire," never as "the earth- quake." We note Panhandle Park, in which stands the McKinley statue. This statue was unveiled by President Roosevelt. Golden Gate Park, although entirely arti- ficial in its make-up, is decidedly pictur- esque. By the way, the parks do not ap- pear to advantage or at "their best" at this period of the year, as we are informed that this (July) is the "dry" season in California. As we near the heights of the city we catch our first view of the Pacific Ocean. How glad we are to gaze upon the rolling, white-crested billows as they break upon the sands! At last we have reached the Pacific Coast. THE GOLDEN GATE A short walk brings us to the new Cliff House, where we observe the sporting seals on the Seal Rocks, and then, lo! we behold the beautiful Golden Gate. How grand is the picture now unfolded to our enraptured vision! The scene was com- plete and well worth our time in crossing the continent. We actually felt that our youth was renewed at the splendid pano- rama spread before us. 76 Wonders of The Golden West Returning to the busy section of the metropohs, one observes scarcely any evi- dences of the great catastrophe of 1906, as most of the debris has been supplanted by new structures and the city stands re- newed, like a giant refreshed with new wine. Our lecturer pointed to a dwelling where resides a man who is the happy par- ent of twenty-one children, and we rever- ently removed our (ladies excepted) hats in honor of the worthy father. After partaking lunch at San Francis- co's finest hotel — the Fairmount — we were taken "below" to the culinary department, where we inspected the entire parapher- nalia, including the Chinese and Japanese cooks, who smiled blandly and seemed "velly glad" to see us. A visit to the new Chinatown, including an informal call at an opium joint and the Joss House, concluded our observations of the city. We regret that the itinerary did not permit a longer sojourn at this inter- esting metropolis. Every true American has a peculiarly tender feeling for San Francisco and its courageous citizens — a people whom fire and earthquake cannot retard. Truly a city and people typical of the American spirit ! Au revoir, San Francisco, but not fare- weU! The Pacific Coast 77 While the train is getting under head- way and as a diversion from "sightseeing" permit me to state that since reaching the Northwest there has been an adjustment or thinning out of our tourist companions. The original members of "Tour E" num- bered 93, the conductors being Revs. Ap- pleton Bash and John J. Foust, repre- senting the well-known Gillespie-Kin- ports Tourist Company. At Seattle and prior to reaching that point several mem- bers branched off to view the wonders of Alaska. The division under the direction of Rev. Bash returned eastward, via Yel- lowstone Park direct, consequently we now number 27 members, known as the "Cahfornia Company," Plan Four, the Rev. J. J. Foust being our personal con- ductor. PERSONAL MENTION The following comprise the genial mem- bers of our happy company and the occu- pants of the "Chesterton," our special car, which we term our moving flat. Would you like an introduction? The Rev. J. J. Foust is a genial guide and leader and we are particularly pleased to follow him on dangerous paths leading to dazzling mountain tops or to banquet halls, where the tables are laden with lus- cious viands. Rev. M. W. Womer is noted as the 78 Wonders of The Golden West athletic parson. At a "pillow battle" or in assisting a lady to an upper berth he is supreme. Mr. George C. Johnson is a gallant, with a weakness for the gentler sex. Rev. S. T. Jackson is a happy combi- nation of philosopher and protector to lonely females on the trip. His injunction to "keep sweet" acted as a balm to the weary tourists. Mrs. B. Moore is jolly as a miss of six- teen summers. Miss Margaret Moore is a devoted sis- ter to her brother Alexander. Alexander Moore is a devoted brother to his sister Margaret. The Misses Mary and Martha Mc- Combs are amiable and jolly and they are alluded to as the Biblical "Mary and Mar- tha." There was lacking a brother Laza- rus, but a little bird whispered that on the sisters' next trip to the West a brother-in- law will appear on the scene. Aha ! Mr. and Mrs. James V. Austin — al- ways sedate and uncomplaining. Miss Minnie J. Harper — ever smiling and contented. Miss Kathryn Taylor is a splendid en- tertainer, always drawing a "full house." Moreover, she has an especial fondness for missionaries. Mr. and Mrs. B. Atkinson — always serene as the noonday sun. The Pacific Coast 79 Miss Helen S. Atkinson, charming her- self, is ever on the lookout for the beautiful in Nature. She has a camera. Master Benjamin Atkinson is known as the boy traveler from New Jersey. Miss Minnie L. Hursh — unobtrusive, yet having a kind word for every one. Miss Margaret C. Houston — retiring and smiling in manner; a profound thinker. Mrs. Susan R. Leach— ever beaming with intense interest at Nature's wonders; a true and appreciative lover of Nature. Miss H. H. Stevenson — always full of Western humor; she hails from Ohio and is proud of it. Mrs. C. M. Knight — ever calm and op- timistic by day and by night. Mrs. L. L. Hunter, accompanied by her charming daughters, Leila May and Dorothy, also son Livingston, constitute the "model family." Mrs. John R. Van Dine — unostenta- tious in manner and, hke her illustrious (ahem!) husband, is ever on time to dine. Last but not least is our faithful porter, Joe, who contributed much to our comfort during the trip. Joe was nearly lost to us at Ogden, and rumor has it a black-eyed damsel was the cause of it all. There were several complaints made against snoring. Of course, each member pleaded "not guilty" to the indictment as 80 Wonders of The Golden West charged (and one night the engineer stopped the train) . To put an end to this annoyance a secret committee was ap- pointed to take active measures if deemed necessary. The conmiittee did good work. The culprits were found to be George C. Johnson and Rev. S. T. Jack- son, who were duly reprimanded and sen- tence was suspended. Our trip was not without romance, as a real count fell hopelessly in love with one of the members of our party, a young lady of sixteen summers. Moreover, the count did swear that he would never return to his castle on the Rhine without leading cap- tive thereto the fair maid of his heart's desire ! Now that the reader knows "who we are," further nonsense must be eliminated as we proceed on our journey. A pleasing ride from San Francisco takes us over a variety of scenery as we glide by orchards of luscious fruit and fields of sweet peas whose fragrance is wafted to us in the train. A glimpse is had of the dome of Stanford University as we proceed southward. A short stop is made at Santa Clara, a town of 5,000 in- habitants, which adjoins San Jose on the northwest and is a great fruit-shipping point. Santa Clara Valley is some pump- kins, so to speak, as they claim here that pne-half of the prunes in the United States < 1 The Pacific Coast 81 are grown in this valley, and not only prunes, but that the peaches, apricots and pears command the market of the world. In fact, they assert that Santa Clara Val- ley is the most fruitful spot in the world; that malarial fever and ague and such ills of the flesh are unknown here. Nice pic- ture, don't you think? SAN JOSE Thursday, July 15.— Our sojourn in the beautiful city of San Jose was like a dream. The city appealed to us, so cleanly, bright and attractive. Delight- fully located in the Santa Clara Valley, its favored residents claim it to be the rose garden of the West. Structures of stone and brick, two to seven stories high, line its well-paved streets. Its population is esti- mated over 50,000. Again on the train we bid adieu to San Jose and soon are passing immense orch- ards of prunes and apricots ; the trees of the latter were in some instances breaking un- der their luscious burdens. The process of drying, or "curing," the fruit by plac- ing the same on large wooden trays in the sun was very interesting to us. THE "big" trees The twenty-seven-mile side trip from San Jose brings us into Big Tree Station, 82 Wonders of The Golden West where we alight to view the great redwood trees of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The Cathedral Group average 300 feet in height, the circumference of the entire group being 110 feet. We had our photos — twenty-seven of us— taken under the branches thereof. General Fremont is a pretty big fellow, standing without boots, 280 feet high, circumference 71 feet. Our party of 27 members stood within its trunk, its holding capacity being 75 per- sons. The Giant is well named. It stands 306 feet high, circumference 70 feet. It for- merly towered 381 feet prior to its top being broken. The General Grant is 325 feet tall, 55 feet around the waist. There are several trees 200 feet high, having a reach of 150 feet to the first limb. These figures were taken verbatim from our courteous and versatile guide on the grounds. One fallen monarch is named Bryan, and following the general. custom, the entire party was photographed stand- ing on the prostrate Bryan. There is a McKinley tree, said to be the straightest tree in the grove ; also a Roose- velt tree. There are several trees of huge dimensions reserved for celebrities, one in honor of the present Chief Executive, and upon his visit to the grove it will be chris- tened Taft. A very pleasant afternoon was spent at The Pacific Coast 88 Santa Cruz, a delightful seaside resort on Monterey Bay. The natural bridge of solid rock contiguous thereto was very in- teresting to behold. Luncheon and dinner were served at the Casino, which overlooks the beautiful waters of the bay. DEL MONTE AND MONTEREY Friday, July 16. — A day of unalloyed bhss was ours at Del Monte amid luxuri- ous surroundings. The hotel nestles amid a beautiful landscape of 126 acres. After breakfast we enjoyed the famous seven- teen-mile ride in autos, passing through the streets of Monterey, the oldest town in California. Here we observed many points of interest, viz. : The first frame and also the first brick building erected in Cali- fornia. The old Custom House is still standing. In rapid succession we pass the old Mission House, the Chinese settle- ment, thence through the famous Cypress Grove. Many of these old cypress trees are covered with moss and we were in- formed they have weathered the blasts for centuries. Soon we skirt the blue waters of the Pacific, viewing in the distance the Seal Rocks on the coast, upon which sev- eral seals were basking in the warm sun. The Ostrich Tree is discerned, so called because the outlines in the distance bear a striking resemblance to the ostrich. At 84 Wonders of The Golden West Cypress Point we alight and view the pic- turesque scenery of the coast at closer range. THE MARINE GAEDENS The next point of interest was the Ma- rine Gardens in Monterey Bay, where in a glass-bottomed boat were seen the won- ders of submarine growth — beautiful plants, the star and other species of fish, curious rocks and various marine forma- tions which were indeed beautiful to be- hold. On the Pacific Coast I boldly stand And cast a wistful eye (To the dear old Bay of Monterey, Where my eyeglasses lie! Saturday, July 17. — An enjoyable day- light ride is that en route to Santa Barbara through Monterey Valley. At the A.-Y.- P. Exposition we attended an illustrated lecture demonstrating the operation of the great harvesting machine cutting the grain, threshing the straw, then bagging the grain for the mill, the entire process requiring the united services of several men, the machinery being drawn by about thirty horses. From the train in Mon- terey Valley we witnessed one of these huge machines in operation. The train skirted the waters of the Pa- The Pacific Coast 85 cific Ocean for many miles and with the passing of the day we witnessed a gor- geous sunset. The great orb of day was seemingly sinking into the waters of the Pacific. Slowly it was receding from view, lower, until nothing was seen but the vast expanse of waters and the radiance of the after-glow. It was a novelty to us from the East — a glorious sunset on the Pacific Coast! SANTA BARBARA Sunday, July 18. — ^A day of rest at the famous mountain and seaside resort of Santa Barbara. The beautiful bay and the neighboring mountains, combined with a climate unsurpassed, attract many tour- ists to this section. The streets are lined with handsome residences, adorned with beautiful lawns and flowers of exquisite beauty and fragrance typical of Southern California. A goodly number of our party attended the morning service at the M. E. Church and we were very warmly greeted by the Barbaraans (not barbarians) at the close of the service. At the Hotel Potter we felt like millionaires for the time being — and then we woke up ! Monday, July 19. — Ere taking our leave of this truly delightful spot we visit the Old Mission, which proves very inter- esting. The history of these missions is a 86 Wonders of The Golden West very profitable study. Arriving at the grounds, an attendant monk, gowned and decorated with the crucifix, acts as our guide. The interior of the mission is plain and even austere in appearance. Passing to the grounds adjoining we note that there are interred many of the Mission Fathers. Some of the historic tombs are mildewed and crumbling with the passage of time. This historic mission was built in 1782 and contains many relics and me- mentos of the early days. In one of the rooms are framed photo- graphs of Presidents McKinley and Roosevelt, taken upon the occasion of their respective visits to this mission. A walk up the winding stairway to the old belfry concludes our visit here. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AND THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.— Page CHAPTER V Southern California and the Great American Desert We are now fairly in Southern Califor- nia, certainly a great section of the State. We Easterners, however, received a set- back to our preconceived ideas of this boasted section, as we observed that the grasses were not clothed in their wonted verdure of green (except where artificially watered) and the roads were dusty. It seemed the country was suffering from drought. As we say in the East, "We need rain." An individual who was evi- dently familiar with the climatic conditions endeavored to enlighten the writer of these lines by stating that California had its "dry" season and its "wet" season; more- over, that if the "wet" season were to set in now (in July) the fruits would be irrepar- ably ruined. The elucidation was plaus- ible, indeed, showing how well Nature pro- tects its own. LOS ANGELES The train in due time brings us into Los Angeles, the city that has been lauded to 89 90 Wonders of The Golden West the skies. The fun began when we at- tempted to board a trolley car to our hotel, with our grips in hand. The cars all seemed to be well filled, but we clambered in, anyway. Then there was more fun when we essayed to make our exit. Ruffled clothing and tempers were a natural result. "But all is fair in love, in war" and in travel ! One readily observes that this is an up- to-date city. Progress and activity walk hand in hand and prosperity is in evidence. This is our impression as we walk through the crowded thoroughfares. The city is attractive and more cleanly than many of our Eastern cities. The streets are busy with traffic. UP MOUNT LOWE Tuesday, July 20. — All tourists have the "sightseeing" mania — a development resulting, methinks, because of the travel microbe's proximity to the braineatus. All physicians will not, of course, agree with me on this, but be this as it may. Mount Lowe was to us the first point of interest. This is a peak of the Sierra Madre range of mountains which rises 6,100 feet above sea level. As we ascended the mount the panorama spread before us was indeed fine. The trip might have been thrilling. In fact, we were eager to be "thrilled," but the lazy electric railway suddenly ends at Southern California 91 Alpine Tavern, 1,100 feet from the sum- mit! The electric railway should extend the trip to the summit — in other words, should finish the job. The trip to Mount Lowe did not meet our expectations. AN OSTRICH FARM 'A visit to the Ostrich Farm at South Pasadena proved very interesting. Some very fine specimens are here exhibited. When a male ostrich, w^e were informed, finds a mate the happy (?) couple are given a separate enclosure, thus avoiding any domestic infelicities. We were "introduced" to "Col. and Mrs. Roosevelt," but the "Colonel" strut- ted off in high dudgeon and absolutely ignored us. •'Mr. and Mrs. Wm. H. Taft" were at home and leading the "simple life." "Carrie Nation," so named because of a proclivity for smashing things; neverthe- less a member of our party — a Methodist parson — essayed to ride "Carrie" around the pen, and he succeeded in doing so, evoking great applause thereby. Pasadena is worthy of passing remark, as it is a beautiful city. Its suburbs are adorned wdth picturesque homes, embow- ered with plants and flowers such as only Southern California can grow. A pleas- ing ride, and we are again in Los Angeles. 92 Wonders of The Golden West It is claimed that the metropolis of Southern California is adding to its popu- lation 25,000 annually. The city has a great influx of tourists both summer and winter, but it is at the latter time that Los Angeles and Southern California are at their best. The city is very comfortable at this writing. The nights are usually cooler than in the East. LONG ISLAND UNKNOWN It is worthy of mention that many East- ern people having settled in California as- sert that thej^ would not return East to live under any circumstances. The loyalty of these Calif ornians to their State was re- freshing and worthy of imitation. So when in conversation the writer was asked from whence he came, he replied from Long Island, New York State. Now, do you know that many of those Western- ers had never heard of Long Island! Well, what do you think of that? Most of them had heard of New York City and the rapacious Tammany Indians and of their attacks on the city treasury. I was compelled to admit there was considerable truth in the report. Met a gentleman at the Angeles, who had just finished a deal in securing a vast tract of land in Califor- nia. Said he : "When the waters from the mountains are brought down to these val- leys, the process of irrigation will trans- Southern California 93 form California into the garden spot of the [United States. I came from Missouri and am here to stay." Wednesday, July 21. — This is our final day in the city, and it is go-as-you-please day. The writer and wife arose before breakfast and later boarded an electric train for Long Beach, the Coney Island of Los Angeles, and it was here we en- joyed our first dip in the Pacific Ocean. It must be great to enjoy Old Neptune every day in the year. Why not live here always ? Walking down to the Long Pier, we observed, at a rough guess, about 200 fish- ermen vainly trying to induce a fish to bite. RIVERSIDE Thursday, July 22. — We took our leave of Los Angeles via Salt Lake route to Riverside, ofttimes described as the "Orange Grove Trip." About noon we arrived at Glenwood Inn, California's mission hotel, built in the style of the old Spanish missions, with the vineclad per- golas clinging to the walls, the roof gar- den, the long arcades and the inviting swings. From the graceful campanile peal forth at intervals the sweet tones of the old mission bells, a symbol of the quiet and peace characteristic of this haven of rest. 94 Wonders of The Golden West "paradise" An esteemed friend who had previously visited the Far West described this spot, "Paradise," as follows: "Returning to the hotel you take a seat in one of the swings, and as you sway back and forth, toying with the oranges you have gathered and dreaming day-dreams, as you look up through the foliage to the perfect peace of the sky above, suddenly from the stately campanile come the sweet chimes of the bells as they peal out * Nearer, My God, to Thee,' or 'My Faith Looks Up to Thee.' This signifies that the evening meal is about to be served, and as the last peal dies away slowly you make your way to the dining-room with its stately mission furniture, and here, while you dine, softly and sweetly float around you the sweet tones of the harp. Am I not right, is it not 'Paradise'?" The picture is true to life — only I could not describe it as beau- tifully as quoted above. After luncheon we took a memorable ride in autos through the famous Magno- lia and Victoria avenues and other beauti- ful thoroughfares. UP MOUNT RUBIDOUX Here are many miles of palm-shaded driveways, flanked on either side by thou- Southern California 05 sands of acres of golden-fruited orange trees brought to a state of perfection by irrigation. Proceeding up Rubidoux Mountain, we reach the summit, 1,300 feet above the city, at which point a magnifi- cent panorama is unfolded of the beauti- ful city of Riverside, the Santa Ana River and groves of orange, lemon and grape- fruit trees covering an area of 20,000 acres, flanked in the background by lofty mountain peaks, completing a picture no artist could paint. Returning to the inn we are escorted through the suite of rooms called the President's Suite, occupied by the Presi- dent and other celebrities when guests at this hostelry. A large bearskin ornaments the suite, being one of the trophies of ex- President Roosevelt's skill as the mighty hunter. From Riverside great shipments of lus- cious oranges and lemons are sent to all parts of the United States. Oranges need water during the "dry" period and the city has 60 miles of cement- lined canals and 500 miles of ditches and pipe lines, with a capacity for distribut- ing eighty million gallons per day during the irrigating season. Riverside boasts a population of 12,- 000; 15 public schools; 4 banks; $300 de- posits for each man, woman and child; 25 96 Wonders of The Golden West churches; no slums and no saloons. A good showing, is it not? It was a source of regret that being so near famous Redlands — about 40 miles — yet our itinerary did not include that pic- turesque region. While we were descending Mount Ru- bidoux I remarked to our chauffeur that the environments of Riverside were almost perfection and that a sojourn here for an extended period would be very desirable, to which he readily assented, and he then related that a short time previously an ex- chief of police of New York had visited this region and after enjoying its beauties, he remarked to the chauffeur: "Riverside is all right. It is a beautiful spot; it has a heavenly aspect, only it's h not to be able to get a drink of whiskey. I'd give $5 to get it." The chauffeur smiled as he said, "Well, he got it all right." The Morning Mission and Riverside Enterprise gave the members of our party the following "puff": '^^EPWORTH LEAGUERS ARRIVE IN THE CITY — ^DELEGATES TO NATIONAL CONVEN TION AT SEATTLE VIEW GROVES ON RETURN "An excursion composed of Epworth League members from New York and Pittsburg arrived in the city yesterday morning and are at the Glenwood. Southern California 07 "This morning they leave for Salt Lake City. 'The party is Tour E of the Gillespie- Kinports excursions. After making the trip through the Canadian Rockies they spent five days in Seattle at the Epworth League National Convention. They have visited Portland, San Francisco, Santa Cruz and the big trees, Santa Barbara and Los Angeles before coming here. After leaving Salt Lake City they will visit the Yellowstone National Park and Pike's Peak and some of the scenery around Colorado Springs before returning to the East. Their entire trip will consume 39 days. "After lunch yesterday the Leaguers spent the afternoon in touring the valley by automobile and taking in the view from Mount Rubidoux. "They were enthusiastic in their praises. Rev. John J. Foust, who is in charge of the party, said last night: 'The groves and flowers about Riverside are the most pleasing sight that we have seen so far on our trip. I have been charmed with the Western bustle and activity that has been evident in Southern California. Every- thing seems to be teeming with life.' "Rev. Foust is the pastor of the Astoria Methodist Episcopal Church, one of the largest New York churches. 08 Wonders of The Golden West "The following is a list of the members of the party : "Mr. and Mrs. B. Atkinson, Miss At- kinson, INIiss Houston, Rev. S. T. Jack- son, Miss Harper, Miss Hursh, the Misses McComb, Mrs. S. R. Leach, Mrs. B. Moore and daughter, Alexander B. Moore, G. J. Johnson, Mr. and Mrs. J. V. Austin, Mr. and Mrs. J. R. Van Dine, Miss Kathryn Taylor, Mrs. L. L. Hun- ter, Mrs. C. M. Knight, Miss Lilla Hun- ter, Miss D. Hunter, Livingston Hun- ter." Friday, July 23. — The train glides out of Riverside, leaving the luxurious orange groves and the exquisite flowers of beauti- ful Southern California. O^^R THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT We are now bound for Salt Lake City, but ere we reach the Mormon city we are to traverse a somewhat different section of country, not entirely unlooked for as we had learned something of the vast area of arid lands known as the IMojave, or Great American Desert, extending some 375 miles. Hitherto I have written about the beau- tiful things we have seen on the trip; the majestic mountains, the fertile valleys, the picturesque rivers and the busy cities, but Southern California 99 one cannot eat pie and have pie all the time, so now we have a picture of barren waste. The verdure and vegetation seem to have entirely disappeared as we behold the barren mountain ranges and vast stretches of plains devoid, actually stripped of all signs of vegetable growth, with the possible exception of dwarfed bushes, called greasewood. Ere reaching Kelso we learned that rain had fallen in the desert the previous morning, the first rainfall here in two years. Kelso, by the way, is a settlement within the borders of Southern California of about a dozen dwellings and we read on the railway station that we are 236 miles from Los Angeles and 5^5 miles from Salt Lake City. So we feel encour- aged as we proceed still further into the desert. On, on — sand, sand. The heat was in- tense; the dust arose like a fog. All the doors and windows were closed and still it penetrated the car. The tourists had divested themselves of all unnecessary clothing; some of necessity had to be re- tained. Drops of perspiration were on every noble brow. Conversation lagged, then completely ceased. Every one was busy with a single thought, viz: How long, oh. Lord! will this last or how long will I last if this thing keeps up? The situation was brief yet interesting while 100 Wonders of The Golden West it lasted, then relief came. The rainfall had been for us a balm of Gilead. We had during the trip witnessed beau- tiful sunsets, the orb of day sinking, as it were, amid snow-capped mountains and from the Pacific Coast, but we now en- joyed the innovation of beholding a glori- ous sunset on the desert, transforming the barren mountains and plains into a sem- blance of weird grandeur, while the West- ern horizon never seemed more beautiful than in this instance as the lingering rays bathed the arid wilderness in golden splen- dor. Will man ever reclaim at least a por- tion of these vast wastes of land? Saturday, July 24. — At early morn our train is dashing through the land of the Mormons. The first impression one re- ceives of Utah is not altogether favorable, as we are still in the barren lands. At long intervals we pass small settlements, finally arriving at Tintic, the great mining section. Some of the humorists of the party sug- gested that inasmuch as we were now in the land of the Mormons a "committee of protection" be forthwith appointed to guard the interests of the unmarried fe- males of our party against any encroach- ment of the said Mormons, but there was such a protest on the part of the ladies that no action was taken. SALT LAKE CITY, THE MOR- MON METROPOLIS CHAPTER VI Salt Lake City^ The Mormon Me- tropolis Soon fertile valleys are again in evi- dence. Then lo! in the distance we catch a glimpse of the blue waters of the great Salt Lake. The Wasatch Mountains loom before us in their grandeur and about noon the train lands us safely in Salt Lake City. The Mormon metropolis was gaily deco- rated with flags and bunting, commemo- rating the fiftieth anniversary of the late Brigham Young's advent to Salt Lake City. It was apparent that we were in a very pleasant and prosperous city. The streets are cleanly; the stores are up to date and one cannot discern a Mormon from the average citizen. After partaking of luncheon at our ho- tel we feel perfectly at home and at peace with all the world, including the Mor- mons. An enjoyable jaunt is that to Salt Air, a popular resort where we take a dip in the famous'Great Salt Lake, the waters of which are so strong and buoyant that it 103 104* Wonders of The Golden West is almost impossible to go down if one sim- ply keeps one's equilibrium. The masses flock to this lake resort by the thousands and it is great sport to witness the bathers bob up and down like corks. In the eve- ning we witnessed a bicycle contest in Salt Lake Place. Sunday, July 25. — Day of rest. At- tended morning service at the M. E. Church. The pastor, in concluding his discourse, alluded to the numerous tour- ists in the city, saying he hoped some would remain permanently in the West and that others would return to their re- spective duties in the East. THE TABERNACLE Every one, of course, pays a visit to the world-famed Mormon Tabernacle, an im- mense auditorium, elliptical in shape and which seats over 8,000. It is 250 feet long, 150 feet wide and 80 feet in height. The acoustic properties are indeed remarkable. At a distance of 200 feet our guide dropped a pin on the wooden railing and whispered to us in the gallery, *'Did you hear that?" both of which we heard with incredible distinctness. We .attended the afternoon meeting, but unfortunately for us it was not a Mormon service. In the west end of the tabernacle is the great organ, conceded by many musicians The Mormon Metropolis 105 as being the finest instrument of its kind m America. It was constructed more than thirty years ago from native materi- als New mechanism is of necessity placed m the instrument from time to time, con- sequently It is up to date. It is capable of many tonal varieties. The free recitals given on various occasions are largely at- tended and highly appreciated by all lov- ers of music. Brigham Young's grave is within a pri- vate enclosure on First Avenue. Several of his wives and a favorite son also repose An imposing monument, dedicated to the memory of the late President of the l.atter-day Saints, stands at the head of Mam Street. The Eagle Gate, formerly an entrance to the private grounds of Brigham Youno- IS another interesting point to the tourist' Ihe Gate has been rebuilt and now ap- pears as m the days of its late owner THE TEMPLE Visitors are not permitted to invade the sacred precincts of the Mormon Temple as it IS a holy place devoted to sacred ordi- nances of marriage, baptism and services tor the dead. All marriages solemnized within the temple are binding through all eternity, while marriages solemnized out- 106 Wonders of The Golden West side the temple are binding only during the earthly life. Surmounting the central spire of the temple is a figure of hammered copper, covered with gold leaf, representing the Angel Moroni. An enjoyable trolley ride is that to the United States army post at Fort Doug- las. On the brow of the hill a magnificent view is had of the picturesque Salt Lake Valley and the city environed by the Wa- satch Mountains, some of the snowy peaks glistening under the rays of the midsum- mer sun. The residential section of the city is noted for its handsome homes, many being embowered with fragrant flowers and shrubbery. At 6:45 P.M. our train is bearing us nearly northward through a prosperous farming section of the State. Soon we traverse a mountainous roadbed and dark- ness precludes further sightseeing. We cannot outline our environment, but we feel that the landscape all about us is un- trammeled by the haunts of man and that peace and tranquillity reign supreme. THE WONDERS OF YELLOW- STONE NATIONAL PARK CHAPTER VII The Wonders of Yellowstone Na- tional Park Monday^ July 26. — Here we are at Yellowstone railway station, a corner of Montana, at the western entrance to the Yellowstone National Park. This grand reservation is located in the northwest cor- ner of Wyoming. Its boundaries overlap a few miles into Montana on the north and Idaho on the west. Its area is a fraction over 3,312 square miles. Three of the great rivers of the United States — the Missouri, Yellowstone and Columbia — have their respective sources in Yellow- stone Park. We are to spend five entire days in this reservation and the first thing in order was to breakfast at the station restaurant, after which the fun began, as there were not sufficient conveyances to take us through the park, ov/ing to the unusual rush of tourists ahead of us, consequently we were compelled to "lay over" until the next morning. Our tempers were some- what ruffled by the enforced delay. Rev, 109 110 Wonders of The Golden West Jackson said, "My brother, let us take a walk and 'keep sweet.' " So he and the writer plunged into the Montana forest, unmindful of bears or other lurking dan- gers, inasmuch as my ministerial compan- ion had on the "whole armor" and the "Sword of the Spirit," while my faith was strong and running capacities fairly good. At the midday luncheon we had re- gained our proverbial good tempers and on board the "Chesterton" good cheer pre- vailed. GREAT TREES FROM ACORNS GROW! A fair maiden hailing from the wilds of New Jersey, in a spirit of fun, started can- vassing on the train for an imaginary book narrating the stirring incidents of our trip. She met with great success in se- curing subscriptions. Thus partly through jesting there followed inspiration and then realization — hence this tale. In the evening Miss Kathryn Taylor entertained us with "I'm Keeping This Seat for a Friend" and other humorous recitations, while Brother Jackson submit- ted injunctions pertinent to the occasion, consequently our "lay over" day in the wilds of Montana proved a cloud with a silver lining. Departed this (Western) life: Rev. M. W. Womer and Mr. George C. Johnson. Yellowstone National Park 111 After camping out they will return to the cultured East. Miss H. H. Stevenson bade us a tearful farewell at Los Angeles. In fact, we all felt the parting very keenly, especially when the quartette (home talent) sang with great emotion, concluding with the touching refrain "Good-by, Stevy; you're goin' to leave us now." Joe, our porter, went into a paroxysm of laughter; even the train stopped as Miss Stevenson alighted. Tuesday, July 27. — In the early morn- ing at the western entrance to Uncle Sam's reservation two heavy stages and one sur- rey, containing our party of twenty-five members, roll merrily into Christmas Tree Park under leaden skies, but who cares for the weather? Not we. The beautiful Madison River comes into view, then the military post near the western approach to Madison Canyon — the canyon, by the way, being a prelude to the wonders we are to witness in this won- drous reservation. At National Park Mountain we come to the junction of Gibbon and Firehole rivers, the source of the Madison River, the latter being one of the main branches of the Missouri River. The Cascades of the Firehole are very beautiful and the driveway becomes more interesting as the Rockies continue to un- 112 Wonders of The Golden West fold before us a series of moving pictures. After crossing Nez Perces Creek we catch sight of our first stopping place, the Fountain Hotel. We were chilled to the bone and the cheerful log fire was fully appreciated. Ere starting on the after- noon drive Governor Hughes, of New York, entered the hostelry. We gave him three hearty cheers and he smiled and ex- tended the gubernatorial hand. FREAKS OF NATURE The skies brightened and we were soon viewing the wonders and freaks of nature abounding here on every hand. We are now in the Lower Geyser Basin, embrac- ing an area of thirty to forty square miles, over which are scattered hot boiling springs, geysers active and otherwise, paint pots numbering more than 600 — ^but fear not, life is too short ; we shall mention a few only. The Fountain Geyser, south of the ho- tel, failed to erupt during our brief stay here. Near the roadway are the Mam- moth Paint Pots. This remarkable cal- dron has a basin which measures 40 by 60 feet, with a mass of fine whitish substance which is in a state of constant agitation. It resembles a boiling pot of paint, produc- ing a continuous "plop-plop." The cones are of various hues and very pleasing to Yellowstone National Park 113 the eye. In close proximity is the Excel- sior Geyser (or "Hell's Half Acre"), Morning Glory Spring, noted for its beau- tiful coloring, as is the Punch Bowl. There is a boiling spring here; it should be named Laundry Spring. One drops a handkerchief into the boiling waters, and lo! it disappears into the depths. If one is patient, the handkerchief finally comes up whiter than snow, with no charge for the service. There are many others worthy of mention. OLD FAITHFUL INN This is the end of the first day's coach- ing, and we are glad to alight. One im- mediately feels perfectly "at home" in this quaint hostelry, an extensive log structure so quaint and decidedly unique in its con- struction that one is lost in admiration. The stairways have split logs for steps and the old-time fireplace is a cheerful sight with its burning logs of lurid flame, while the massive clock, keeping Mountain time, ticks, ticks merrily the hours away. The interior is artistically arranged, in- dicative of a forest conquered and utilized. OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER The guide escorts the tourists from (every clime and nation to the various boil* 114 Wonders of The Golden West ing springs and geysers which abound in the immediate vicinity, as the Giant, the Beehive, the Lion, the Lioness and Cubs, the Sponge and many others, but the most noted, the rehable friend of the tourist, is the Old Faithful Geyser. Every sixty- five minutes (with rarely any variation), day and night, summer or winter, rain or shine, this wondrous freak of nature gives a performance. Its eruptions begin with a few spasmodic spurts, followed by a col- umn of hot water projected upward 125 to 150 feet for a period of three to five minutes. At night the searchlight from the roof of the hotel is turned upon it, and it is then Old Faithful shines forth in all its glory as the ascending waters assume the various hues of the rainbow, then changing to ethereal snowy whiteness of dazzling splendor. A FEAST OF "pOPCORN" After enjoying the spectacular exhibi- tion every one returned to the hotel and from the great log fire the porter popped a big pan of corn, passing it in turn to the guests, reminding us of the good old days — or wintry nights — "down on the farm." Governor Hughes is here and is evi- dently enjoying himself. The Governor is also making a circuit of the park, ac- companied by his secretary. A gentle- Yellowstone National Park 115 man at the hotel said to me : "You people of New York should be proud of your Governor Hughes. He would make an ideal President, and though I am not a Republican, he would receive my support were he to be a candidate." Wednesday, July 28. — We take our leave of Old Faithful Inn. Castle Gey- ser, in the immediate vicinity, one of the oldest active geysers, failed to give us an exhibition. A splendid view is had of Kepler Cascades as the waters leap from shelf to shelf of a rocky chasm in a series of enchanting falls. As we roll merrily along our driver in- dicates the point of the Continental Di- vide, where the waters, insignificant at the start, divide, one stream sloping towards the west, finally reaching the Pacific, and the other, reinforced later by "feeding" waters, eventually reaching the Atlantic Coast. A view is obtained of Shoshone Lake and in due time, or in time for lunch, we reach Thumb Bay Lunch Station, which is on the west arm of Yellowstone Lake. The blue waters of the lake, with the snow peak range of mountains in the background, forms a delightful panorama from our point of view. A "fish" story Prior to refreshing the "inner man" a guide, acting in the dual capacity of leq- 116 Wonders of The Golden West turer, takes us in charge and leads us to various pools of beauteous effects in col- ors, hues of dazzling brilliance, boiling springs, spouting geysers and curious for- mations of considerable area. At one of these pools it is a remarkable fact that one can fish from the bank of the lake and then boil the "catch" in the boiling spring without changing one's position. To one who has never visited the Far West this may appear fishy. An esteemed friend who had previously taken the trip to the West stated having seen geranium trees in California eight feet high and the writer of these lines cheerfully corroborates the statement, hav- ing viewed some of those trees when pass- ing through that State. Therefore marvel not at any statement emanating from the West. AN ELECTRIC RAILWAY VERSUS STAGE COACHES The second day of coaching in the park is up a precipitous mountain roadway. Uncle Sam would do a good turn for both the horse and tourist were the lumbersome horse-killing stage coaches abolished and an electric road substituted to traverse this reservation. The circuit of Yellowstone Park by stage covers about 170 miles. Even with four horses to each stage, the Yellowstone National Park 117 strain upon the horses at some of the al- most endless hills was indeed terrific. The veins of the animals would stand out like whipcords. The ordeal is cruelty to ani- mals. One of our horses of the surrey was completely exhausted. After considerable difficulty a new team was obtained and we proceeded. The sun shone brightly and the chipmunks and squirrels came forth from their hiding places to greet us, while some beautiful specimens of deer seemed to welcome our intrusion to their haunts in the Rockies. Here, amid the luxuriant pines and tow- ering cliffs, one breathes the pure air of heaven at an altitude of over 8,000 feet above sea level. From the roadway is af- forded a good view of the Natural Bridge, an interesting arch of stone, which our driver informs us is some forty feet high and six feet wide. Looking toward the mountain range on the east side of the lake is seen the "Sleep- ing Giant," formed of the peaks of Saddle Mountain. Soon we are beside the placid waters of Yellowstone Lake as our stages roll up to the Lake Hotel, where we are to sojourn for the night. FEEDING THE BEARS Just before sunset quite a number of the guests sauntered out to where the bears 118 Wonders of The Golden West come down from the mountains to their "feeding place" for their evening meal, generously provided by the hotel manage- ment. There were nine in all, big and small. Their antics were highly amusing, as each bear would try and eat everything in sight regardless of his fellow bears. Many of the "bears" in the human family are doing that very same thing in this work-a-day world of ours. What's the sense in being "bearish," anyhow? Finally big black "Joe," a stalwart grizzly, came stalking upon the scene and then the other bears slunk away as "Joe" asserted his authority. Governor Hughes was one of the spectators and hugely enjoyed the novel exhibition. YELLOWSTONE LAKE A delightful spot this, beside the waters of Yellowstone Lake, noted as the coldest body of water in North America at so great an altitude, 7,741 feet above sea level. It is fifteen by twenty miles in size. In the distance is Mount Sheridan, its peaks snow-capped, radiant and superb. Thursday, July 29. — This is our third day in the park. All Nature smiles. How good it is to be alive and in perfect health to enjoy and appreciate God's scenic splendors so lavishly displayed in this reservation. Yellowstone National Park 119 As we now skirt the banks of the Yel- lowstone River, having passed the confines of the lake, our driver suddenly halts the team as he points to the waters on the brink, saying, "Look down there." We do so and behold the waters teeming with bright, shining trout. The conveyances halt and we alight to view the Mud Volcano, so called because of its peculiar formation, a grewsome freak of Nature about 30 feet in depth, emitting through a cave-like opening a lead-colored mass of mud having the sem- blance of soft mortar, which is being con- stantly belched forth, accompanied by dull, muffled sounds. Gazing thereon, one is lost for words and simply says: "Won- derful, wonderful!'* We enter Hayden Valley, the largest in the reservation, which is especially adapted as a grange for game. In the distance towers Mount Washburn at an elevation of 10,388 feet. We cross the Grand Canyon Bridge, the current of the river at this point being very rapid, the waters tumbling and swirl- ing in picturesque cataracts around masses of rocks, and a little later our driver draws rein as we catch our first view from the roadway of the Upper Falls of the Yel- lowstone, which have a drop of 135 feet. A quarter of a mile below the Yellowstone takes another leap of 360 feet, called the 120 Wonders of The Golden West Lower or Great Falls. They are stu- pendous, majestic and awe-inspiring and we shall view them later at closer range. THE GRAND CANYON Our conveyances halt at Artist's Point, where we alight, and here we obtain the first and never-to-be-forgotten view of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. What pen can give any adequate conception of that great chasm yawning at one's feet. Its depth awes us ; its radiance charms the senses as we behold the exquisite hues of every conceivable color blended in perfect harmony, seemingly splashed from a gi- gantic palette, and yet so artistically painted by the Master Artist that the spectacle irresistibly conamands our high- est admiration I Before taking this trip I had read de- scriptions and looked at views of the Grand Canyon. Arriving upon the scene, my preconceptions of it were necessarily changed because the grandeur here un- folded cannot be described. It is the do- main where man is and should be silent, that the soul might commune with the Su- preme Power manifested in the splendors all about us. We next get a closer view of the Upper Falls as we stand upon the brink, gazing upon the great volume of water as it goes Yellowstone National Park 121 foaming over the precipice, resplendent in its various hues. By this time nearly all of us were too full for utterance, yet we were glad to reach the Canyon Hotel in time for lunch- eon. I trust, for the sake of the ladies of the party, the above will not be misunder- stood. VIEW FROM INSPIRATION POINT In the afternoon special conveyances take us first to Inspiration Point, where, to our surprise, we espy an eagle's nest on a rock far below us ; it is seldom one gets higher than the American eagle. And then we gaze far into the depths at our feet below into the gorge, viewing its vast- ness and myriads of colored effects and the seemingly narrow stream winding its w^ay through the chasm transcendentally picturesque, flecked with foaming white, tinged with blue — the Yellowstone River. A young lady was heard to remark at this point: "Well, I've got my fifty-five dol- lars' worth right at this spot!" (that being the cost of a five-days' stage trip through the park) . THE LOWER FALLS After visiting Grand View and Point Lookout, where the tourist observes the 122 Wonders of The Golden West canyon at various viewpoints, and one must do this in order to form a true con- ception of it in its entirety, we next de- scend the 497 steps leading to the brink of the Lower or Great Falls. Here we view the river as it dashes over the bank in glassy sheets. The spray in its wake, touched by the sunbeams, forms a perfect rainbow. The picture was indeed com- plete! IN THE GLOAMING !At twilight the Rev. S. T. Jackson and myself again visited Point Lookout, and in the gloaming there seemed in the soli- tude and the quietness, broken only by the sound of the falls, new beauties and revela- tions unfolding before us as we continued to gaze upon the glorious spectacle. Thus we tarried and communed until it was time to say "good-night." Friday, July 30.— A truly delightful ride is that from the Grand Canyon to Mammoth Hot Springs, passing many points of interest on the way. We note the "wedded trees." The trunks in their vigorous growth had inter- locked and thus grown up as one great tree. The white-capped waters of the Vir- ginia Cascades were decidedly pictur- esque, as were the Twin Lakes. Our driver drew rein at a curious boil- Yellowstone National Park 123 ing spring, the "Frying Pan," and, sure enough, the shape exactly corresponds with the aforesaid utensil. We quenched our respective twenty-five thirsts at the noted Apollinaris Spring, the waters of which are refreshing, delicious and without price. NORRIS GEYSER BASIN We catch a glimpse of Electric Peak, which rises to supernal heights, and our "coaches" roll up to the Norris Hotel, where we alight for luncheon. The moun- tain air sharpens one's appetite, conse- quently the call to the dining-room is hailed with considerable satisfaction. Pre- paratory to that interesting feature a guide escorts us through Norris Geyser Basin, where we view more spouting gey- sers and boiling springs galore. A re- markable little geyser is the Constant, or Minute Man, which plays every three min- utes, with only a slight variation. The pool is twenty-four feet in diameter, filled with water of crystal clearness. A wondrous freak seen here is the Black Growler. It throws out but little water, which is very dark, having an odor of sul- phur. The continuous growl or roar from its internal or infernal regions below gives one the impression that a great factory is working overtime. Another neighboring monster is the 124 Wonders of The Golden West ''Hurricane," possibly related to the ''Black Growler," being similar in the character of its eruptions, which is destruc- tive to surrounding vegetation and foliage. The afternoon drive brings us to Beaver Lake, a beautiful body of water, so called because the beavers have constructed real dams at certain points in the lake. Ob- sidian Cliff looms 250 feet above the road- way. This was formerly a famous resort for all the tribes of Rocky Mountain In- dians. It was here they assembled for their pow-wows and to adjust tribal diffi- culties. THE GOLDEN GATE Our stages now s^omg into one of the most picturesque points of the park, a rugged pass between the base of lofty Bunsen Peak and the southern extremity of Terrace Mountain, known as the "Golden Gate." The sides of these rocky walls, which rise nearly 300 feet above the roadway, are covered with a yellow moss, hence the suggestive name the pass now bears. THE SILVER GATE Another surprise awaits us as we pass through a strange, weird region, called the "Silver Gate and the Hoodoos." These curious formations, comprising huge Oh Yellowstone National Park 125 blocks of limestone of grotesque shapes and weird proportions, cover an area of a square mile, in the midst of which the road- way makes an abrupt turn, passing be- tween these great freaks, which rise fully 75 feet high; hence the name "Silver Gate." MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS We shortly land, twenty-five strong, in vigorous condition at our hotel at Mam- moth Hot Springs, and very soon we start out to view the terrace building hot springs, which are noted for their great beauty and to which tourists have been lured to behold from the uttermost parts of the habitable globe. These peculiar springs occupy several acres on the north- ern slope of Terrace Mountain. Minerva Terrace covers an area of nearly an acre, having a mass of deposit with a hot spring on the summit, some twenty feet in diameter, the temperature of which is 154 degrees Fahrenheit. These layers of deposit present the most delicate coloring, from the lightest cream to the deepest shades of yellow and orange, com- mingled with transparent hues of blue. Jupiter Terrace, the largest of the en- tire group, has a brilliantly colored deposit extending some 2,000 feet along the edge of a high mound south of Minerva Ter- race. It is a good climb to the summit, 126 Wonders of The Golden West where one observes two large springs of boiling water trickling down over the ter- races. This great mass of terrace-building de- posit is the result of ages of continuous deposition from these boiling springs. The flowing portion grows rapidly, while the larger dry part is crumbling. Contiguous to this point is located a large United States cavalry post. Scouts are employed by the Government, their duties being to protect the beauties of the reservation from vandalism, prevent the spreading of camp fires and to preserve good order in general. Indeed, since our entrance into the park we have been in close touch with guards on horseback fol- lowing our coaches, so that the tourist is quite as safe here as at "home, sweet home." It was from the Mammoth Springs Ho- tel that Governor Hughes took his depar- ture from the park by way of Gardiner entrance. A member of our party, an enthusiastic admirer of the Governor, re- marked as he grasped the gubernatorial hand, "Well, Governor, I hope some day to greet you as ^President,' " to which Gov- ernor Hughes quickly responded; "Thank you, but don't worry about that, sir." We all esteemed it a privilege as well as an honor to have toured the park at the iden- tical time with the Governor, while some Yellowstone National ParJc 127 of the ladies declared it was a piece of good luck, as they were unanimous in the thought that the present Governor of New York will in due time become "the Presi- dent." I noted that there are no "frills" on the Governor, no "big stick" in evidence; that he ate, drank and smoked like the common run of mankind and that if he "gets the job" of being President he will measure up to the "job." That, in plain words, is my impression of the man. Saturday, July 31. — This is our fifth and last day in the park. We bid adieu to Mammoth Hot Springs, repassing some of the scenes we had observed the previous day. Our driver grows communicative. Was it because of "tips"? Perish that ig- noble thought ! He informs us that snow- storms begin here some seasons as early as October; that snowbanks were in evi- dence up to July 1 of the present year. In answer to the inquiry as to whether he was married, he replied emphatically, "No, and never shall be; never liked women well enough to marry one." He further eluci- dated that while he "did not like the women," he provided a home for his two sisters. We told him jocularly that there was still hope for him and that when we again visited the park we hoped to learn that he was supporting some "other fel- 128 Wonders of The Golden West low's sister," to which suggestion he snapped his w^hip at the "off" mare and said: *'Never, on your life!" Stopping at Norris Hotel for luncheon, we soon skirt the Gibbon River and can- yon, the boiling Beryl Spring and view gigantic Mount Sheridan at close range, in due time reaching the junction of the Gibbon and Firehole rivers, then the Madison River, and a little later we are made glad at the familiar sight of Christ- mas Tree Park, our starting point at the western entrance to Yellowstone Park. We had made an actual circuit of Uncle Sam's great park; had experienced five days of life on the *'stage"; had drawn the curtains behind the scenes, and the won- ders we had witnessed will abide with us as long as we live. We partake of a "farewell' luncheon at the Yellowstone railway station and as the sun is sinking in the western horizon we are gliding over the green fields of Idaho, rich in verdure and attesting in silent elo- quence the bountiful harvests awaiting the husbandmen. Salt Lake City, Sunday, August 1.— ' Day of rest. Again we find the city be- decked with flags and bunting. Is it be- cause we are back in the Mormon metropo- lis? If so, we will be frank and state our sojourn is because we were about fifteen Yellowstone National Park 129 minutes too late to make comiections with an outgoing train. No, we are informed the decorations are not in "our" honor, but in honor of the G. A. R. Very well; we don't want any fuss made over us. We are not used to that sort of thing. A MORMON SERVICE At 3 o'clock P.M. there was a special service for tourists at the Mormon Taber- nacle. We attended and first we were fa- vored with an organ recital, which was indeed very fine, demonstrating the won- drous powers and capacities of that great instrument. Then an elder of the Latter- day Saints gave a very brief synopsis of the Mormon faith. He submitted no thoughts or dogmas for special contro- versy. He steered his bark clear of the snag of polygamy. He claimed the right to worship as one's conscience dictated, and with true Methodistic fervor we said *'Amen" to that. The speaker used his words very skillfully, made no vigorous effort to "convert" us, and we listened re- spectfully, and at the close of the service felt none the worse because of the "talk"; in fact, we appreciated the effort to en- lighten us. The train is again in motion, whirling us through beautiful Salt Lake Valley. During the night we traverse a section of 130 Wonders of The Golden West the Wasatch Mountains, the ascent at certain points necessitating three engines to pull us through. In the moonlight the mountain peaks appear strangely weird, while silence reigns o'er the vast domain. SCENIC COLORADO — PIKE'S PEAK— GARDEN OF THE GODS CHAPTER VIII Scenic Colorado — Pike's Peak — Gar- den OF THE Gods Monday^ August 2. — The train is now bearing us over the grand State of Colo- rado; majestic mountains in the back- ground, while fertile valleys expand be- fore us, forming a panorama of perfect beauty and tranquillity. GLENWOOD SPRINGS At the Hotel Colorado, Glenwood Springs, a day of rest is fully appreciated, especially by the ladies of the party fol- lowing the five days' coaching in Yellow- stone Park. This is one of the best known pleasure resorts in the West. It is noted for its sulphur springs. If the sulphur water does not kill — beg pardon — cure the ills of the flesh, the hot sulphur baths will finish the job. Seriously speaking, it is asserted that the sulphur baths here are great curative agencies in many cases. Here Roaring Fork River empties into 133 134 Wonders of The Golden West the Grand, while Mount Sopris stands forth in its peculiar grandeur. This is the spot par excellence to renew one's youth. Drink from the springs, indulge in sul- phur baths, take the "rest" cure and lo! one is a new creature. Another one of our members has de- parted this Western life for — Brother Jackson's left our party-— Never more out West to roam. Dead? Oh, no! For his laugh is blithe and hearty [Ajs he speeds t'ward his New Jersey home! Our beloved fellow traveler through the wilderness was just a little homesick. He longed to see the partner of his joys and sorrows — even scenic Colorado could not hold him. Was there ever such filial de- votion as this! As one departeth so two others cometh, as Miss Evelyn M. Paries and Miss Har- riet D. Lindsley rejoined our noble band at Glenwood Springs. They are blithe- some as larks. In fact, they declare most emphatically that the entire trip is a lark. GRAND RIVER CANYON Tuesday, August 1. — Just out of Glen- wood Springs an open observation car is A ROCKY MOUNTAIN LAKE. —Page 135. Scemc Colorado 135 added to the train, which fact is highly ap- preciated, as we now enter the wondrous canyon of the Grand River. This canyon is sixteen miles long. The Rockies seem- ingly hem us in, as they tower 2,500 feet high, while the Grand River, lashed to fury because of its limited confines, makes the scene highly enchanting and we enjoy it to the utmost. In a short space of time we enter the celebrated canyon of the Eagle River, also impressive with the grandeur of Nature. Here is witnessed the curious sight of mines being worked on well-nigh perpen- dicular mountainsides 2,000 feet high on either hand. MOUNT or THE HOLY CEOSS From the train we catch a view of the wondrous Mount of the Holy Cross. The cross is formed by two transverse canyons of immense depth, riven down and across the mountain. In these canyons lie eter- nal snow. Whether from lack of snow or from a defective point of view, the "cross" did not appear to good advantage to us. However, we were willing to concede the "mount's" full height of 14,176 feet. CONTINENTAL DIVIDE OF THE CONTINENT At the crest of Tennessee Pass we have attained an altitude of 10,240 feet. The 136 Wonders of The Golden West snow fields seem almost in touch with us, and we are "de-lighted!" No South Africa for our crowd ! Already we are in love with scenic Colorado. It is here the Pacific slope is changed for the Atlantic, this being the top of the Continental Divide of the continent. The scene now changes as we enter the Valley of the Arkansas, amid hay and cat- tle ranches. Peace and contentment go hand in hand. As we further traverse the valley we presently observe Mounts Har- vard, Princeton and Yale of the Collegiate Range and a little later a glimpse is had of glorious Pike's Peak in the distance. GRAND CANYON OF THE ARKANSAS We had been surprised and awed into mute silence many times during this grandest trip on earth; our adjectives had completely "played out" long since, but we were to witness another "thriller" as we entered the confines of the Grand Can- yon of the Arkansas, which is ten miles long. The narrowest part of the passage is the Royal Gorge, scarce space between mountain wall and river for the single track. At one point (the Hanging Bridge) the width is but ten yards and the road- bed has been built out* over the river. The mountain walls tower aloft 2,627 feet and the river boils madly through its tortuous ^Scenic Colorado 137 course. Amid this scenic splendor the spectator is completely lost in admiration, mingled with awe. Emerging from the Grand Canyon the train skirts the State Penitentiary. Making a brief stop at Pueblo, the second city of the State, we in due time arrive at Colorado Springs and from thence proceed to our hotel, the Cliff House, Manitou. Our eyes had beheld such a surfeit of wondrous sights amid the majestic Rockies of scenic Colorado that we were glad to rest them for a while. How sweet and beneficent to mortals is the precious boon of Nature — balmy sleep and rest! MANITOU Wednesday, August 4. — This is a little Eden, where health, comfort and delight- ful surroundings blend in perfect har- mony. If one has any love for the beauti- ful in the realm of Nature in one's make- up it must surely "break out" in this lovely spot, and if it doesn't — better go straight home and chop wood or dig clams, with no aspersions on those occupations. Here numerous mineral springs abound, a spring for each and every ailment, real or imaginary. It is the Saratoga of the West at the entrance to the Garden of the Gods and the starting point for Pike's Peak. 138 Wonders of The Golden West SIDE TRIP TO CRIPPLE CREEK In the early morn we start from Mani- tou by trolley to Colorado Springs ; from thence we shall take the side trip of forty miles by steam to the celebrated mining camps of Cripple Creek. As we pass through Colorado Springs we admire the broad streets and magnifi- cent residences of the city, reputed an ideal home city of great private wealth. The city claims a population of 30,000. We are on the train and have "special reserved seats." "All aboard" — we're off! They tell us this is the trip that to describe bankrupts the English language, but me- thinks we went into bankruptcy in that respect back yonder amid the glories of the Canadian Rockies and capped the cli- max upon re-entering the domains of our Uncle Samuel. Our guide and megaphone man calls out the points of interest as we proceed upward: "Colorado City on the right." We next cross the trestle over Bear Creek Canyon. The train is now ascending rug- ged passes. Towns begin to look very in- significant in size from our elevated point of view. Hurrah! Ascend, old train, higher and still higher, as we have wit- nessed such a wealth of scenic grandeur that it seems scarcely any scene on this mundane sphere could daze us nowl 'Scenic Colorado 139 "Point Sublime," our guide announces. The point is well taken as we gaze down into the yawning abyss at our feet. We are now 7,200 feet above sea level. "North Cheyenne Canyon," another magnificent panorama is outstretched be- fore us. Then the announcement, "Silver Cascades on the right," and we gaze with enraptured vision at the beautiful water- falls, sparkling and shimmering with va- ried hues in the morning sunlight. "St. Peter's Dome." A huge mass of granite looms up before us, towering o'er the heights sublime — about 10,000 feet high. "Devil's Slide on the right." The an- nouncement was somewhat startling, in- asmuch as we had hitherto conceived the region of His Satanic Majesty being at a much lower altitude than this. At Goldfields we boarded an electric car en route to Cripple Creek, and soon we are in close proximity to famous gold and silver mines, some being in active op- eration while others are abandoned. Here is observed the American Eagle Mine, said to be the highest mine in the world, at an altitude of 11,000 feet. The Portland Mine, we were informed, is the longest mine in the United States. Mountains in New Mexico, 100 miles distant, can be discerned. That is, our 1 10 Wonders of The Golden West guide tells us that they are that distance, so we take his word for it. On the sides of neighboring mountains we observe small cave-like openings, in- dicating the track of prospectors in their search for hidden wealth. Gold King Mountain is pointed out, showing the spot where gold was first discovered in 1891, there being but one log cabin in Cripple Creek at that time. We get a glimpse of Altman, which our guide informs us has the distinction of being "the highest incorporated town in the world." In the distance, fifty miles away, can be seen the snow-capped peaks of the Sangre de Cristo range of mountains. CRIPPLE CREEK In the valley at our feet lies Cripple Creek, now boasting a population of 15,- 000. A little later we find ourselves in the famous mining city. Many have reached here with great expectations — and gone ''broke." We promenade the principal streets of the city, noting that the dwellings and business houses are built of substantial brick, averaging two and three stories in height. Numerous stores are "to let." At one of the leading hotels we were served with luncheon fit for a potentate Scenic Colorado l^l or the President of the United States, and I so expressed it to the wife of the pro- prietor, and her beaming smile lit up the room. Ere taking our departure from the city the members of our party who had any money left at this stage of the trip entered jewelry stores to look at the "pretty things" — and the jewelers did the rest. Upon returning we noted numerous mines at Victor in active operation, also some abandoned mines. But ah ! if these mines could speak, what tales would be regaled of man's insatiable thirst for gold. And these abandoned mines, what could be told of unrealized hopes, of unrequited toil, of the widows' and orphans' savings ruthlessly sacrificed therein! The Cripple Creek gold and sil- ver mining region is likened unto a great checkerboard in the great drama of life. The side trip to Cripple Creek was in- deed an interesting one, aside from its scenic features. Enjoying the high alti- tude of 10,000 feet, we hope to go still higher on the morrow, as we anticipate as- cending Pike's Peak. pike's peak by rail Thursday, August 5. — One may walk or ride a "broncho" up the precipitous mountain paths, but we choose making 142 Wonders of The Golden West the ascent by the Cogwheel Route. The sun shines brightly as the car, with the engine in the rear, begins the climb of 14,147 feet. Some handshaking is done and irrelevant remarks indulged in, such as "We'll meet you above," etc., and then we await developments. Some very de- vout mortal (or mortals) have utilized the big rocks for religious purposes, as upon one is: "All the v/icked and all nations shall be turned into hell that forsake God," and a little further an individual, evi- dently with a vein of humor, has inscribed: "Let the wicked forsake this way." We are slowly yet surely ascending, as is attested by the passing objects on either side as the conductor announces them from time to time. Various rocks are given suggestive names, such as "Lone Fisherman," I^Hanging Rock," "Plum Pudding," "Turtle Rock," etc., because they very much resemble in form the objects thus designated. There are six stations or stopping points on the line and three water tanks, for the engine is a hard drinker. As we proceed upward our conductor announces "Son-of-a-Gun Hill." We thought this somewhat irreverent, but after we viewed the "hill" the name seemed very fitting and appropriate and no change in the name was even suggested. Scenic Colorado 143 Our first stop was at Minnehaha; quite romantic station this. A little further on and another stop is made at the Half-way House, a rustic mountain hotel, and tow- ering above it are the rocks of *'Hell Gate," through whose portals our car passes. A view is had of Mount Burley, 12,000 feet high, in the distance. We can now sweep the horizon for 100 miles. The at- mosphere is rapidly changing. The con- ductor states that the ascent is at an angle of 25 per cent., adding that the power house on the right is the highest in the world. Every one is now entering with great zest into the sensations of the trip. Ex- pressions are heard, "Wouldn't missed this for the world!" "Are you cold, Doro- thy?" "Cheer up — the worst is yet to come!" At the next stop an opportunity is given passengers to purchase or hire extra wraps, but this is not the north pole — only "tenderfeet" put on extra clothing. The United States Government seal stamped close to the track indicates that we have attained an altitude of 11,000 feet. Picturesque Lake Marie, far below, re- sembles a small pond. At 11,500 feet we pass beyond the vegetation line into the bare rock region and the point of view becomes still grander. Looking to the 144 Wonders of The Golden West south we can discern the sharp outlines of the Spanish peaks in New Mexico, said to be 140 miles distant! At "Windy Point" we have attained an elevation of 12,000 feet. Passengers seri- iously don more wraps. Feels like a frosty morning in November on Long Island, but the date is August 5. A pretty flower girl now appears on the car with Pike's Peak forget-me-nots for sale, grown above the timber line. The engine takes another drink and wheezes ahead. Still another rock inscription reads: "Where will you spend eternity?" "Crip- ple Creek," says our conductor, and, sure enough, in the distance we discern Cripple Creek and its surrounding mines, also the mountains marking the Continental Di- vide, and then at last we have reached the glorious summit of Pike's Peak. THE SUMMIT We are now at an altitude of 14,147 feet, but there are no unpleasant physical sensations, such as shortness of breath, or fainting on the part of the gentler sex. The matchless environment alone dazes and awes the spectator, for here is sublim- ity enthroned. One feels like the hero in "Monte Cristo" who in triumph declares, "The world is mine 1" The panorama out- 'Scenic Colorado 145 stretches and unfolds before one's enrap- tured vision in all its grandeur and its im- mensity seems incredible. The view from this exalted point simply baffles descrip- tion. We are above the cloud line, but in forty minutes we shall return to the lowlands of earth. Amid ledges of rock we hunted high and low for traces of snow without avail, when to our satisfaction the Hon. Wm. F. Cody's nephew kindly proffered a handful he had descried, and with a por- tion of this heaven-born article the writer washed the fair cheeks of a young lady hailing from New Jersey. She struggled not and sweetly murmured, "It's awfully nice!" We purchased a copy of the paper pub- lished on the summit and, presto! our names were recorded "on high" among the "latest arrivals." On the summit we note the tablet dedicated to the memory of "Zebulon Montgomery Pike, Soldier, Explorer," etc. At the summit no postal cards can be mailed therefrom unless the same be pur- chased at that point ; the price charged per postal, including stamp, is 10 cents. This, to my way of thinking, is a piece of impo- sition. It is un-American and should be stopped. 146 Wonders of The Golden West After having our photos taken on the summit to certify to our friends at home that we actually did the "peak," reluc- tantly we began the descent, happy in the thought that one of the aspirations of school days had been gratified. GABDEN OF THE GODS The descent was made in due time, and after partaking of luncheon at our hotel we soon found ourselves in carriages at the entrance to the Garden of the Gods. The redstone formations seen here are cer- tainly unique. The driver calls our attention to two portions of stone being similar in propor- tion, called "The Siamese Twins," and we notice the resemblance. Then our lecturer introduces us to "The Washerwoman," and, sure enough, the outline of the afore- said woman is observed bending over the washtub. In rapid succession we note Punch and Judy, the Balanced Rock, the Steamboat, the Cemetery, the Lion's Head, the Kissing Camels and other for- mations too numerous to mention. The peculiar beauty and striking resemblance to the object named in each instance elicited our heartiest approval and deep- est appreciation. The ladies' "ah's" and "Isn't that just too cute for anything!" demonstrated that imagination is a great ^Scenic Colorado 147 thing, for, of course, in viewing these for- mations or freaks, one must have an imagi- native turn of mind in order to see the beauties thereof. However, the driver usually attends to this, and he readily makes up any deficiency existing on the part of the spectator. CAVE OF THE WINDS We continue our drive through Will- iams Canyon. The drive proved a veri- table "Rocky Road to Dublin," along nar- row ledges of rock, then winding up high mountain cliffs, and as one gazes into the depths a creepy feeling steals up and down the spinal column. However, one is tol- erably safe if the driver is strictly sober and horses shy not. Just at this point one of the occupants of our carriage an- nounced in measured tones, "Look! three beautiful deer at the right." We looked and what do you t-hink we beheld? Why, three "dear" mountain lassies! The joker was a married man, too. Finally we arrived at the Cave of the Winds, where we each deposited a dollar as an act of good faith and a guide with a defective articulation took us through a subterranean passage lighted by elec- tricity, and the aforesaid lecturer-guide proceeded to unwind his stock of knowl- edge about the queer and curious forma- 148 Wonders of The Golden West tions here exhibited. The formations, termed stalactites, grow downward from the ceihng and are very beautiful, while the stalagmites grow upward from the floor of earth and rock. Some of these formations are undoubtedly fine, but do not compare in size and beauty with those of the Luray Caverns in Virginia. It is with reluctance we take our leave of beautiful Manitou. At twilight, from the train, we catch a fleeting view of the light on the summit of Pike's Peak, seem- ingly bidding us adieu as we turn toward the East. We rather like Colorado, its climate being all that mortals can desire ; its lands are rich in vegetation; its valleys are fer- tile and surpassingly beautiful to behold, while its mountains teem with precious sil- ver and gold. Methinks any individual doing well in that State should remain there, as it is one of the scenic spots and health resorts of Mother Earth. The "dry farming" section of the State was traversed in the darkness. Dry farm- ing is the process of retaining the natural moisture of the soil sufficiently to mature the crop when rain falls only at long in- tervals and irrigation is not feasible. We have touched or crossed the States where women have full suffrage — Idaho, Wyoming, Utah and Colorado — and it seems, in passing, that these common- Scenic Colorado 149 wealths are not going to the bow-wows in consequence of its female citizens utilizing their rights. The woman suffrage pot is boiling over in England, and if we read aright the signs of the times, it would seem the pot is beginning to simmer on this side of the Atlantic and by and by the women will be victorious and the right to go to the polls and vote in all the States will be theirs. By what right, human or Divine, do the so-called "lords of creation" deny woman the privilege of full suffrage? HOMEWARD BOUND— PASSING COMMENTS CHAPTER IX Homeward Bound — Passing Comments Friday^ August 6. — The dawn of day- brings us into new scenes. The moun- tains, the yawning canyons, the pictur- esque cascades and the beautiful valleys are no longer in evidence, as our train is forging across the fertile soil of Kansas. Vast fields of corn, seemingly as far as the eye can reach, outstretch before us, and the stubble of extensive fields of wheat at- test the harvest of the latter has been gar- nered. A young lady who was jotting down notes of our trip was asked what she would say about Kansas and she replied: "I shall simply remark that 'Kansas stands for corn!' " Kansas is a glorious State nevertheless. At Phillipsburg we adjust our time- pieces one hour forward, changing from Mountain to Central time. We shall re- peat the performance at Buffalo, chang- ing from Central to Eastern time; in all probability our final change until the lure of the mountains again brings us west- ward. 163 154 Wonders of The Golden West PLEASANTRIES OF TRAVEL While we are traversing the "corn belt" kindly permit me to digress for the time being to remark that there is a world of enjoyment in travel if one simply adjusts oneself to circumstances. It is just as well to find out first as last it doesn't pay to be too exacting; one must not expect all the comforts of home even on a Pull- man car. Moreover, if matters do not al- ways revolve in heavenly cycles pour in a little oil of forbearance, superior to Omega Oil in allaying irritation. Above all, "keep sweet." We tacked that motto on the curtains of our car. Some individuals are born travelers, others are not. Some gaze with rapture on scenic grandeur, while others will be ap- parently unmoved, reminding us of those recorded in Holy Writ: "Having eyes, they see not; having ears, they hear not." If one is seeking information while on the trip it is well to keep one's wit on the alert, with pencil sharpened, and ask ques- tions. Keep on the right side of the train- men, as they are pretty well posted on the routes traversed. It pays to be courteous to every one — helps one over the "bumps." ONE ON "jOE," OUR PORTER Before entering the Sacramento Valley our train was traversing a high plateau, Homeward Bound 155 and looking across the valley and down into the canyon, I espied a railroad track. I said to our affable porter: "Joe, this train is evidently on the down grade, and I think it is heading for that track way down yonder. Am I right?" Joe scanned the rails way down in the canyon and answered: "I think you are wrong, sir. That track is on another road." "Thank you, Joe." Our train proceeded down the valley, actually forming a loop in one instance, and after a long interval, just as I had surmised, we were finally traversing the track down in the canyon, to Joe's utter amazement, who said "Well, I couldn't see how in the Lord's world it was possible for the train to get away down here!" But the real joke on Joe was that he had previously traveled over this identical route; in fact, he had actu- ally "forgotten" this wondrous spot. Per- haps I, too, shall forget this "spot," but methinks it will not be until the lights of earth flicker and go out. LOYAL TO THE EAST I have hitherto alluded to the loyalty of the people of the Far West to their re- spective States, and it seems fitting at this point to record particularly the loyalty of the unmarried ladies of our party to their Eastern homes. To illustrate : Way back 156 Wonders of The Golden West in the Far Northwest, I think it was in Oregon, a resident of that State (a wid- ower) having a fine ranch and his house- hold was blessed with two lovely little tots — alas! now motherless. This Oregonian desired a wife for his bosom and at the same time a mother to his little "kiddies," and the announcement was made on the "Chesterton." Would the offer or "pro- posal" be accepted by any unmarried fe- male member of our party? But we were not long kept in suspense. One young, blithesome creature said, "No; could not leave her happy home in the East." An- other replied she would not forsake her "dear mamma"; another tkat "Oregon was too far from Jersey." A maiden from the Empire State said her heart was "loyal to New York." Still another objected on the ground that "there were two tots too many." All the returns were in save from our fair neighbor in the section opposite the writer of these lines. Laying aside her magazine, she sweetly said, "Really, I could not leave my little Wellsville, Ohio !" Was there ever such devotion to kindred, to the home or to the respective Central and Eastern States as this? "tipping' One of the bugbears of travel is the giv- ing of "tips." The moment the tourist Homeward Bound 15^ gets fairly started on the trip he (or she) is expected to hand over tips until safely- home again. Whether the tourist hap- pens to be in the bondholding class or can scarcely afford to take the trip matters not. But simply dare to ignore the "un- written law" of tip-giving and the "knight of the apron" will look at you, but oh! what a look you'll get! Why should this un-American system prevail? Why not tip all clerks, salesmen and salesladies in the stores ? On railway trains why tip only the waiters, cooks and porters? Why not tip the conductor for looking and taking up our tickets, the engineer who takes us safely through, and perhaps the road we are privileged to ride upon is not pay- ing good dividends, so why not tip the stockholders? But here is the biggest "Why" of all. Why do not the railroad companies pay sufficient wages to all their employees on trains crossing the continent and thereby make tipping un- necessary? I understand that the porters could scarcely get along with the wages paid them by the railroad, but this ought not to be so. While indulging in these passing com- ments our train is still dashing through Kansas and finally makes a stop at To- peka, the capital, thence on to Kansas City, where we alight. 158 Wonders of The Golden West KA.NSAS CITY At this interesting point we have a few hours in which to get a glimpse of the town, and a large sightseeing automobile is soon whisking us through the streets of the city. We soon note that Kansas City is a wide awake, flourishing metropolis. The stores and business houses have a prosperous appearance. Traversing the fashionable residential section we saw many palatial homes vying in elegance with any we had seen hitherto in our tour of the West. We had but one grievance against the city, viz. : The ther- mometer was down or rather "up" on us, and we were unanimous in the conclusion that for a red-hot, sizzling town Kansas City was certainty it. ST. LOUIS Saturday, August 7. — About 7 a.m. the train brought us into the great metropolis of the Southwest — St. Louis. After breakfast we again board a sightseeing au- tomobile, taking in the sights of the city. We were greatly pleased with St. Louis, as it is both beautiful and great. Its For- est Park is next to that of Fairmount Park in Philadelphia in size, and we greatly admire its beauties and artistic features as we are whirled over its hand- some drivewavs. It was also somewhat THE AUTHOR.— Page 159. Homeward Bound 159 cooler than we found it in Kansas City. We shall not again leave our train until reaching the East. THE HOMESTRETCH All aboard for the homestretch! The train crosses the noble Mississippi River into the good old State of Illinois, the home State of America's greatest human product, Abraham Lincoln, and soon we are whizzing by towns and vast fields of luxuriant vegetation. A TOURIST^S "impressions" When one has taken a trip of this na- ture many inquiries are naturally made, such as What particular State or city did vou like the "best of all"? What are the opportunities for the average worker out West? Can a person do better out West than in the East? These, of course, are difficult questions and to answer them in- telligently would require a perfect knowl- edge and familiarity with the conditions and resources of the localities specified. A tourist can truthfully state one's impres- sions only. To the young man seeking a commercial career my impression is that Seattle, Wash., offers a splendid field. It is a busy centre, is not overcrowded like our Eastern cities and has an air of gen- eral prosperity. San Francisco is another rising city. For a residential city I would 160 Wonders of The Golden West commend Portland, the Rose City. The spot that appealed to me was that won- drous section in the beautiful Williamette Valley in Oregon. It seemed to me that the environment there was all that mortal could desire, but after noting scenic Colo- rado and breathing the invigorating air of that great State I was in the position of the maiden who had two suitors for her hand — she was undecided which to accept, loving each equally well. Southern Cahfornia is the winter resort for the people of the East. When the ice king waves his sceptre o'er the frozen East then flee to Del Monte, Santa Barbara or Riverside, if your purse-strings happily permit, for this is the perpetual land of flowers and warm sunshine, verily the gateway between earth and heaven. The trip from the Atlantic to the Pacific Coast is nearly finished. We have touched or crossed twenty-one States and covered nearly 11,000 miles. Over in Canada we crossed the Provinces of Saskatchewan and Alberta, also a goodly portion of British Columbia, and again I repeat that, in my humble estimation, the Stars and Stripes should float over the entire Cana- dian and British possessions in North America ! We feel that the trip has been of great benefit to us; it has enlarged our concep- tions of this grand country of ours. The Homeward Bound 1^ 1 scenic wonders our eyes beheld amazed and awed us. No mortal can view the stupendous Canadian Rockies, towering in colossal magnitude toward heaven, and God's wonderland, which we term Yel- lowstone Park, without realizing that there is an Unseen Power all about us, be- speaking the Divine Hand, the Great Architect, Builder and Scenic Artist ot the Universe! The great and mighty West charmed us as we beheld its beauty, its productive- ness and its great resources. Its climate is all that mortal can desire. We shall miss the snow-capped moun- tains, the grand canyons, the dashing cata- racts, the majestic waterfalls leaping gracefully over the precipices, the boiling springs and spouting geysers — these sights cannot be witnessed m the l^ast. However, we have the Atlantic Ocean, noble rivers and splendid bays, and, above all, this fact, that this great country in its entirety is ours, and that the splendid ta- cilities of travel soon take one to any point under the sun. The train is now traversing picturesque Indiana, the State that produced that ster- ling statesman, Benjamin Harrison. A short stop is made at Indianapohs, but the itinerary did not permit any sightsee- ing at this interesting metropolis. After touching the Pacific Coast one 162 Wonders of The Golden West doesn't feel very far westward in Indiana, seems kind of neighborly like; coming closer to Smith's Corner, Lawrence, the most desirable spot on Long Island. NEARING HOME Sunday, August 8.— During the night our train has traversed the State of Ohio, noted for its Presidential timber and the home State of our two martyred Presi- dents, James A. Garfield and William McKinley. All honor to the State that produces men of that stamp, including our present Executive, William H. Taft. We touch a corner of Pennsylvania and later catch a glimpse of the blue waters of Lake Erie in the distance, thence on to Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Utica, mak- ing a stop at Albany and soon we are skirting the familiar Hudson River. THANKSGIVING We are about to bid adieu to the mem- bers of our party whose warm friendship contributed largely in making the trip so enjoyable, and it is fitting that we give ex- pression to our thankfulness that we have traveled across the continent and returned without accident, our train arriving at Se- attle on schedule time, a tribute to the splendid railway system of our great land. Furthermore, we feel under obligations to Rev. J. J. Foust, our genial conductor Homeward Bound 163 of the tour, for his earnest efforts to make the trip as pleasant as possible. We also desire to speak a word of commendation of the Gillespie- Kinports Company, mi- der whose direction this tour was taken. Above all, we feel grateful to our Heav- enly Father for the privilege of beholding the vast area of this glorious Republic — glad that we are citizens thereof and per- mitted to live and enjoy its blessings and freedom — this land now more wondrous to us than ever before. In the sweet by and by we hope to tour another Land that is even more glorious than this. In order to preserve this fair country of ours how essential it is that only America's best type of men should be permitted to enact and execute its laws. Gentle reader, our trip is ended, but its sweet memories will abide down to life's eventide. We trust that the foregoing chapters will inspire those who have not yet taken the glorious trip to the Pacific Coast to do so, for indeed no description is adequate to do it justice. "My native country, thee, Land of the noble free, Thy name I love ; I love thy rocks and rills. Thy woods and templed hills : My heart with rapture thrills Like that above." THE END PERSONNEL "TOUR E" Conductors: Rev. Appleton Bash, Rev. J. J. Foust Miss Fannie Abbott Brooklyn, N. Y. Miss Gertrude Altaffer Pittsburg, Pa. Rev. J. E. Apply Pittsburg, Pa. Mr. B. Atkinson Paterson, N. J. Mrs. B. Atkinson Paterson, N. J. Miss Helen Atkinson Paterson, N. J. Master Benjamin Atkinson. . . .Paterson, N. J. Mr. James V. Austin. . . .Astoria, L. I., N. Y. Mrs. Sarah Austin Astoria, L. I., N. Y. Miss Anna Zelma Baker .... Hummelstown, Pa. Rev. C. H. Baldwin Rev. Appleton Bash . Sewickley, Pa. Mrs. J. J. Bogardus Brooklyn, N. Y. Miss E. R. Bragaw Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. A. Louise Brewster Rochester, N. Y. Miss Anna Brewster Rochester, N. Y. Mr. Chas. M. Chamberlin Maspeth, L. I. Mrs. Chas. M. Chamberlin Maspeth, L. I. Miss A. L. Coe Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. J. E. Crisman Windber, Pa. Mrs. A. F. Eckert Orange, N. J. The Misses Eckert Orange, N. J. Mrs. C. A. Ferris Washington, D. C. Mrs. Mary E. Fifield Paterson, N. J. Miss Florence Fifield Paterson, N. J. 164 Personnel ''Tour E'' 165 Mr. G. P. Foulk. Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. G. P. Foulk .Brooklyn, N. Y. IRev. John J. Foust Astoria, N. Y. Mr. A. L. Freeman . . ^ Maspeth, L. I. Mrs. A. L. Freeman. Maspeth, L. I. Mr. Frank E. Freeman. .,..._.. .Maspeth, L. I. Miss Emily R. French. ...... Beaver, Pa. Mr. G. Haflinger Maspeth, L. I. Mrs. G. Haflinger .Maspeth, L. I. Rev. E. P. Harper ... . . .^ . Jeannette, Pa. Miss Minnie J. Harper. . . . .Imperial, Pa. Miss Hartman. Washington, D. C. Mr. and Mrs. E. L. Henderson. . .Carrolton, O. Miss E. M. Hood Pittsburg, Pa. Miss Emma M. Hood Pittsburg, Pa. Miss Margaret C. Houston Paterson, N. J. Miss E- E. Hunt. Washington, D. C. Mr. J. Livingston Hunter. . . . . .Tidioute, Pa. Mrs. L. L. Hunter. Tidioute, Pa. Miss Lilla May Hunter. . . . .Tidioute, Pa. Miss Dorothy Hunter. ...r. . .Tidioute, Pa. Miss Minnie L. Hursh. Harrisburg, Pa. Miss L. M. Hursh. ..;.,.. Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. Joe Jackson ,. Sewickley, Pa. Rev. S. T. Jackson Sewickley, Pa. Mrs. M. L. Jepson .Brooklyn, N. Y. Mr. Geo. C. Johnson. .. Allegheny, Pa. Rev. J. M. King .St. Clair sville, 0. Mrs. C. M. Knight. Akron, O. Miss Emma Kroas Brooklyn, N. Y. Miss Lizzie Lawrence. . . .Brooklyn, N. Y. Miss Josie Lawrence. ...... .Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. Susan R. Leach , .Astoria, L, L Miss Harriet D. Lindsley Jersey City, N. J. Miss Mary A. McCombs Pittsburg, Pa. Miss Martha J. McCombs . .Pittsburg, Pa. 16G Wonders of The Golden West Mr. C. C. McFarland New York City Mrs. C. C. McFarland. . New York City Miss Mary Marshall. ...... .Jersey Shore, Pa. Rev. J. M. Mason East McKeesport, Pa. Mrs. B. Moore .Astoria, L. I., N. Y. Miss Margaret Moore. ........ .Astoria, L. I. Mr. Alex. Moore Astoria, L. I. Mr. John Oliver Myers. ...... .Carnegie, Pa. Miss Nellie E. Myers. ...... .Johnstown, Pa. Miss N. E. Myers Johnstown, Pa. Mrs. Elizabeth N. Oliver. ...... .Carnegie, Pa. Miss Evelyn M. Paries. .... .Jersey City, N. J. Mr. W. N. Ridge New York City Mrs. W. N. Ridge New York City Miss Mary M. Robinson..Rockville Centre, N. Y. Miss Minnie R. Root Brooklyn, N. Y. Miss Sylvia Mae Rosenteel. . . . .Sewickley, Pa. Mr. A. H. Scudder Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. E. H. Scudder Brooklyn, N. Y. Miss Sarah F. Small. Bayonne, N. J. Miss H. H. Stevenson Wellsville, O. Miss Kathryn Taylor ........ Newton, N. J. Miss Lucy Todd Brownsville, Pa. Mr. J. R. Van Dine Lawrence, L. I. Mrs. J. R. Van Dine ..Lawrence, L. I. Miss F. Van Wagnen Yale, Mich. Mr. F. L. Warner. .New York City Mrs. F. L. Warner. New York City Mrs. F. L. Wanzer East Cleveland, O. Miss Margaret Winslow. . . .East Orange, N. J. Rev. M. W. Womer East Orange, N. J. m 24 JBte One copy del. to Cat. Div. iAH 24 laiU