~^i8S^SSi^S^^^^«^i^^^M5S^^f*s^S(^^S^: S P^ROM THE SEA ILLUSTRATED LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. PRESENTED BY UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. ^;;;:P^, /^C^i-t^C^ Gleanings from the Sea SHOWING THE PLEASURES, PAINS AND PENALTIES OF LIFE AFLOAT, WITH CONTINGENCIES ASHORE. BY JOSEPH W. SMITH. " T/ie Sea is His, and He Made It:' Andover, Mass. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 1887. ^\ ^^' COPyRIOHT BY JOSEPH W. SMITH. Printed by Chas. C. Whitney, Marshall, Minn. o ^3- TO B. P. SHILLABER, THE GENIUS OF WHOSE PEN, AND THE GLOW OF A KINDLY NATURE, HAVE GLADDENED SO MANY, AND MADE HOME DUTIES LIGHTER AND MORE CHEERFUL; WHILE HE, HIMSELF NOW RIPE IN YEARS— A MARTYR TO PAIN — HAS BEEN FORCED INTO SECLUSION FROM THE OUT- SIDE WORLD, YET PATIENT AND UNCOMPLAINING UNDER THE MINISTRATION OF SORROW AND BEREAVEMENT; A PUBLIC BENEFACTOR, WHOSE LIFE WORK HAS BEEN MADE THE MORE RADIANT AND BEAU- TIFUL BECAUSE OF EARTHLY ATTRITION; AND UNDER ALL, AND ABOVE ALL, WHO HAS WON FOR HIMSELF THAT RARE DISTINCTION, THE "CHEERFUL INVALID," THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, BY HIS ADMIRING FRIEND, JOSEPH W. SMITH. CONTENTS Preface, _.---_ 5 Introduction, ----- 7 Trial Trip of the Jennie B., - - - 13 Biddeford Pool as a Watering Place, - 19 A Storm at the Pool, - - - - 29 The Industries of the Pool, - - - 32 Sword-fish, ------ 37 Sword-fish Capture on the Jennie B., - - 46 Halibut, . . - . - 48 The Lobster, ----- 53 Blue-fish, ------ 56 Cod-fish, ------ 62 A Fishing Episode, ----- 68 Mackerel, . - . . . ^4 Striped Sea Bass, ----- 83 Herring, ---.-- 86 Whale Fishing, - - - - 96 Yachting and Bathing, _ - - 109 Romance of the Pool, - - - 115 Pool Strategy, - - - - - 119 Early Fisheries of Cape Ann, - - 121 Fish, Fishing Stations, etc., - - - 127 The Gloucester of To-day, - _ - 135 Fish Weirs, - - - - - 138 The Bright Side of Fishing, - - 144 iv CONTENTS. The Dark Side of Fishing, - - - 148 From Biddeford Pool to Boothbay, - - 152 A Cruise ia the Jennie B., _ _ _ 162 Tropical Fish, _ _ _ _ i6p One of the Days, _ _ _ _ 1^2 A Shadow-Canoe Trip, - - - 176 Phenomena of the Sea, - _ _ - 184 Chemistry of the Sea, ... - ig^ The Tides, ..... 191 A Rhymed Record, _ _ _ ip2 A Home-made Pilot, _ - _ _ 204 Fall Fishing, _ _ _ _ 206 Old Time Fishermen, - - - - 214 A Day at York Beach, - - - 217 Svvampscott, - - - - - 223 Supplying the Market, _ _ _ 231 A Shore Town, ----- 236 A Rhymed Letter, _ - _ - 238 Cape Cod, - - - - - 241 Fish and Fishing, _ _ _ , 249 A Winter Letter, - - - - 256 The Menhaden, or Porgy, _ _ - 259 United States Fish Commission, - - - 263 Fisheries of Norway, _ _ _ 268 American Fish Bureau, - - - - 287 Old Monhegan, _ - _ _ 294 The Gulf Fisheries, _ _ _ _ 307 St. John's, Newfoundland, - - ^ 311 The Shad Running, - - - - ^ 3^7 Salt Water Lines, - - - - 319 The Life-Saving Service, - - - 327 Correspondence from Stations, ... 378 A Generous Testimonial, - - - 398 Conclusion, ----- 398 PREFACE. ONE of the principal objects in issuing the present book, "Gleanings from THE Sea," is to extend what has already been printed, in "Winter Talk on Summer Pastime," as that volume, being limited to a very small edition, onlv reached a few of my personal friends. Another reason is, that the book recites many incidents in which friends took part, and in which manv others, who might have done so but for business engagements, may be interested. Through this medium I can speak, face to face, with them all, and for them it is writ- ten. Should the public be so interested in the volume as to lead them to pur chase it, they are assured that the proceeds of its sale will go towards provid- ing reading matter for the Life Saving Stations upon our coast. In issuing a work upon so broad a subject as " Gleanings from the Sea," one must neces- sarily depend largely upon others for material, and in the present edition I am indebted to many, who have, from experience and acquired information, enabled me, by their contributions, to add a greater interest to the various mat- ters treated of in the previous edition. Not the least among the number is my particular friend, B. P. Shillaber (Mrs. Partington), who has freshened up these pages with verse and prose, and who, in a pleasant note to me, when enjoying my summer vacation at Biddeford Pool, July, 1S84, added these words: " I envy you your vacation, during which you avoid the madding crowd, and, out upon the breast of old ocean, can exchange politics for pollock, confusion for cod, and hurry for halibut; and I am sure that companionship with the trim biiilt 'Jennie B,' will afford you the greatest satisfaction. You are, indeed, a happj- man, and will enjoy the grave sea philosophy of Capt. Goldthwait far more than the theological discussions of Andover." In conclusion, to mv friends first, but to all who may read these pages, I trust that mv fishing ''lines''' will have " fallen in pleasant places." JOSEPH W. SMITH. Andover, Mass., 1S85. / INTRODUCTION. THERE is not a school boy, who trudges along the country road on his way to school, with his geography under his arm, but can tell something of the make-up of this grand country of ours. He knows about its discovery by Columbus, the landing of the Pilgrims, the Revolutionary war, the war of 1812, and also of the recent Rebellion; and he will open his map and point out to 3'ou the beautiful rivers, lakes and fer- tile \'alleys. The scholar more advanced, can tell you the pro- ducts of every state ; knows where the railroads cross and inter- sect each other; is somewhat acquainted with our agricultural and manufacturing interests, and in fact you find him pretty well posted on all that relates to our country. The riper scholar can tell you of other countries — England, France and Spain; Italy with its sunny clime; Switzerland and the Alps; Greece, once the seat of learning; China and Confucius; Egypt and the Holy Land; and you find that there is no part of the habitable globe that he does not know something about. But if you ask those, who live away from the ocean, about the in- habitants of the mighty deep; the different kinds of tish and animals that find their home in the sea, and their worth; or in relation to the men who pursue the business, and their various modes of catching fish for a living; the storms they encounter; the wind, snow and fog they have to contend with, I think the majority w^ould be found to know very little about it. viii I NT ROD UC TION. Do you ever think, when you sit down to a nice piece of hal- ibut or codfish for breakfast, of the hardships the fishermen undergo to give you that dainty bit ? I propose to tell you some experiences of my own in this matter, and also facts that I have gathered from the fishermen themselves, which I hope will in- terest and instruct you. There are two phases of deep-sea fishing, one called shore, the other bank. It is of the former that I shall speak, from experience, and of the latter, state some facts obtained from other sources. Shore fishing (so called by the fishermen) is where the fishermen go from three to thirty miles from land, and where their trips hardly ever exceed a fortnight, and are oftener less. Saco Bay is about one hundred miles from Boston, and is formed by Cape Elizabeth on the north and Fletcher's Neck on the south. Its width is about ten miles. The bay extends into the land about four miles, and its shores are nearly semi-circu- lar. The towns of Biddeford, Saco and Scarborough, are upon its shores. The central portion of the bay is called " Old Orchard." There are several islands in the bay — the two off Prout's Neck called Stratton and Bluff islands. The other islands are nearer Fletcher's Neck; the largest. Wood Island, upon which there is a revolving light. This island forms a nat- ural breakwater for the harbor. Neofro Island is two hundred and fifty yards west, and connected with it at low water. Stage Island is eight hundred yards west of Negro Island. On the north-east end is a monument of gray stone, forty feet high and surmounted by a circular cap. At low tide this island is con- nected with the main land of Biddeford by a pebbl}^ bar. A quarter of a mile west of Stage Island is Basket Island, also connected with the main land by a pebbly bar at low water. Two-thirds of a mile from the middle of Stage Island is Ram Island. It is oval in shape and entirely destitute of trees. Three-quarters of a mile north is Eagle Island, also destitute of trees. This island is about one mile from Ferry Beach. Be- tween Wood Island and the shore we find a small island called • fi •. f I'- •*. ^'' l^i ; '.il INTRODUCTION. ix Gooseberry, and on the back of the neck another small pebbly spot of ground called Beach Island. A rock which is nearly covered at high water, and upon which the surf breaks at all times, is called Washburn. At the mouth of the Saco River, projecting from the north- ern shore, is a granite pier or breakwater extending in a south- easterly direction for eleven hundred yards. The entrance to the river is between Stage Island monument and the breakwa- ter. The sweep of Old Orchard Beach, together with the tides and changeable winds, cause the movable sands to obstruct nav- ig-ation at the mouth of the Saco River. The breakwater was built by an appropriation of Congress, to prevent the channel of the river near the bar from filling up with sand, and chang- ing. The cities proper, Saco and Biddeford, lie up the river about six miles, opposite each other. " Biddeford Pool " — included in the topography of ward one, Biddeford, and giving its name to the entire vicinity — ^is a broad interior basin, about one-fourth of a mile from the sea, with which it is connected by a narrow channel. It covers about four hundred acres, and is filled and emptied at every tide. The water rushes with great force through the channel at ebb and flow, and it is almost impossible for a boat to cross it ex- cept at slack tide or still water. It is a picturesque sheet of water when filled, and excellent for boating. This Pool has no part, beyond its name, in the incidents presented in this volume. Of the early history of Fletcher's Neck I have space to say but little. A word or two may, however, suffice. It was settled in 1734. There are three houses in good condi- tion that date back to that time : the " Hussey House," the house occupied by Tristam Goldthwait, Sen., and the " Haley House." When I first knew the place there were fourteen houses. Two male heads of families now only remain. Ship- building was formerly carried on at this place and quite a busi- ness was done before the war of 18 12. At this place is located Life-Saving Station, No. 6, of which I shall hereafter speak. Fletcher's Neck is accessible by land between the inner and the X INT ROD UC TIOX. outer beaches, a distance of about one mile, by a hard gravel road built a few years ago. By water a steamer plies up and down Saco River and connects with some of the trains of the Old Orchard Beach railway. The Little Beach railway car- ries an average of fifteen thousand passengers each season. Among the notable points of interest in the vicinity of Bidde- ford, is an old church, about half way between Biddeford and the Pool, above which hover the limbs of a large pine tree, as if in loving benediction. The limbs extend out over the roof, contrary to the rules of trees of this description, wave solemnly over the edifice, and sigh as if pining for past importance. It is now but transiently used, a preacher coming from Bidde- ford only occasionally to occupy its pulpit, during the summer, and then it is but sparsely filled by visitors. It is not, by any means, like "Alloway's auld haunted kirk," open to the winds of heaven, and made the abode of warlocks and witches, but a grave pile, resting in melancholy reflection by the way, as if it had a great secret to tell but could not give it utterance. Pass- ers by regard it with reverent attention and wonder how it got there. I was curious to learn something about it myself, and wrote to a clerical friend for information regarding it, and kin- dred matters, to which he responded : " I suppose you know that the church organization to which this structure belonged was the first in Biddeford, though the first edifice was not on this spot. Where the first stood I am not quite sure. In 1 66 1 Rev. Seth Hetches was settled in Biddeford, and was the first Puritan minister. He continued his service till 1675. There was a church edifice near the old burying-ground, just above Eliot Jordan's house, and that was wh}- the burying-ground was located there, it being a custom to bury the dead under the shadow of the church, or as near the sanctuary as possible. Whether the first Puritan church stood here, or not, I am una- ble to determine. The Church of England service was the first introduced into Biddeford and Saco. Robert Jordan, who came to Cape Elizabeth in 1640, and from whom descended the vast family of Jordans in this country, was the first to in- I NT ROD UC TION. xi troduce the Episcopal service, and there was a church edifice, I suppose, somewhere on the Neck. In the Records in the clerk's otEce, Biddeford, there is a record of the action of the colony in regard to the seating of women in this church, cer- tain persons of distinction being assigned to the most import- ant positions. The services in this church were, for a time, conducted by a layman, named Robert Booth. A vote author- izing him to act in that capacity is recorded in the old town records. The originals, well preserved, are curious and diffi- cult to read, but Col. Edgerly, who was City Clerk some twenty years ago, made excellent copies of them which can be read with ease." But little satisfaction is derived from this, regarding the old " Pine Church," and I opine that little can be found, yet the church records may exist which would throw some light upon it, but simple allusion to it now is my object, speaking of it as an interesting relic of the devotional spirit of the past. The harbor proper of Biddeford Pool, is embraced within the arm of Fletcher's Neck, which affords facilities for a fish- ing commerce that is growing to be of much importance. Quite a fleet of vessels is now employed in the fisheries, and a fine new schooner — the Joseph Wai-ren — has just been added to the number, a very beautiful specimen of marine construc- tion, that will, doubtless, stimulate the production of others for the same purpose. At times the harbor presents a lively ap- pearance, with its show of incoming and outgoing vessels, and, as may be judged by the pictures contained in this volume, the people take a deep interest in their home commerce. The Pool, however, is not a great market for fish. They are, when caught, taken to Portland, for the most part, where there is a ready demand for them. Those engaged in fishing are a sturdy and energetic people, very industrious while the season lasts, and usually secure enough gain in the summer to last them comfortably through the winter. A happy association with them for years, warrants the good word I speak for them. \ rx \ K '"%^' GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. TRIAL TRIP OF THE JENNIE B. THE Jennie B. lay at Scituate, awaiting the voyage across the Ba}- and along the coast to Biddeford Pool, and, on a bright morning in June, Capt. W. F. Goldthwait and myself proceeded to join her and sail her to her destination. A boat and stores for her we had provided in Boston and placed on board the schooner Nausett, intending to intercept her in the Bay and transfer them to our own schooner. After the usual prelimi- naries of adjusting papers at the Scituate custom house, a trans- action which, after previous purchase, made the good schooner Jennie B. legally mine, we started from the wharf, under charge of Capt. Bates, her former owner, in search of the Nausett, bound out. It was nearly noon when we started, with a cheerful send-off from those on the wharf who had gathered to see us leave. The day was pleasant, although the wind was a little ahead. The scene was a charming one, and the Jennie B. showed her good sailing qualities as she cleared the harbor and beat out to sea, passing by Minors Ledge and up Boston Bay to meet the expected vessel. We met the Nausett at quarter past three, and, the boat and supplies put on board, Capt. Bates left us and returned to Scituate in the Nausett. Capt. Frank now took the tiller, and shaped the Jennie B.'s course for Cape Ann, wath a fair wind. Feeling proud of my 2 7^ GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. new purchase I watched her behavior with deep interest. She made a good promise of speed, was steady as a church, and I felt satisfied, as she was to stand in the relation of a home to me and my friends during the summer. The south- erly wind allowed us to keep a direct course, and we enjoyed every moment. We passed Marblehead — its pleasant summer houses gleaming in the warm light of the afternoon sun — the islands in Salem harbor, Manchester-by-the-Sea, Gloucester, East Point Light and Rockport South Side, then, rounding Thatcher's Island, we dropped anchor in Rockport harbor at 8 o'clock p. M., and turned in for the night. At 4 o'clock the next morning all hands were piped upon deck, and, with a fine breeze, the Jennie B. swept out of Rock- port harbor. As she was bowling along I hailed a fisherman with the query: "Are there any sunken rocks in the harbor?" "Yas," was the reply, "there's one clus to 3^e, and, if you don't keep a sharp look out, yer '11 be onto it. Th'raint more'n tew foot o 'water on 't." This was a comforting assurance, and it seemed somewhat churlish in him not to have informed us of our danger without my asking. But Capt. Frank was equal to the emergency, and, almost before the fellow had done speaking, he said: " I know the rock he speaks of, and we are pretty near it, but there's more water on it than he says." Running his oar down : " There," said he, " We will go over it without danger of touching." We did so, the Jennie B., with her ten and six one-hundredths tonnage and great draught, entirely ignoring its existence. To another fisherman I said: " It seems to me that you have some lively old mosquitoes here. ' Twas lucky for us that we anchored late last night; the suckers didn't find us till morning." He smiled and said, quaintly: " Wal, I guess, stranger, they '11 stick to ye long enough to make up for lost time." TRIAL TRIP OF THE JENNIE B. 75 This was at the time when the early fishermen were start- ing on their daily trips, in sailboats and dories, and quite a fleet of them were bound out. After getting out of the harbor we shaped our course for the Isles of Shoals. The towns along the shore we were leaving — Rockport, Essex, Ipswich, New- buryport — ^were all full of interest to me from early associa- tion. One of the most thrilling incidents of my early life had Newburyport for its pivotal point. The evening before one Fourth of July three young men (myself and two others) pro- cured a whaleboat at Newburyport for an excursion to the Shoals, and two days were spent there and along the New Hampshire coast. Returning, on the third day, we were beset by calm and fog, and reached the mouth of the river — and an ugly mouth it has at low tide, with the combers rushing in over the bar, — just at night, exhausted with rowing and in peril from the breakers that foamed around us. We barely es- caped being swamped, and managed to anchor near one of the immense sand spits off Salisbury Beach. The weight of the anchor was not deemed sufficient, and, taking some short pieces of railroad iron from the bottom of the boat, we placed them in an iron chowder pot, securing them by a piece of wood across the top, lashed to the pot legs below\ This was a capital anchor, we thought, and it answered its purpose. It rained fearfully, and thundered and lightened through the night, and as but two could sleep in the small cuddy at a time, the third must watch, and thus we alternately waited and soaked. I, for my part, have never felt any particular desire for the same experience again. Plum Island lights were near, but not visible for the fog. When we arrived next morning, we were informed that four men had been drowned on the bar a short time before we had anchored. The sky had become cloudy after leaving Rockport, and the freshening breeze denoted what the sailors call " dirty weath- er." It soon began to rain and I went below to keep out of the wet, but standing ready for a sudden call. The wind now blew quite a gale, and I sprang for the tiller in a jiffy. Frank i6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. held her up to it like a major, and there was nothing to do but let the boat " drive," and show what she was capable of per- forming as a "'sailer of the salt, salt seas." She stood the squall nobly and came out all safe from the sudden attack, which was very brief. We were obliged, as the wind was hauling round to the northward, to go outside the Shoals, with only a moderate breeze to assist us. The sun came out about 9 a. m., which toned down the chill that followed the north wind, and had rendered a great coat very desirable. We had passed Hampton Beach, Boar's Head, Little Boar's Head, and Rye Beach, all of which had peculiar interest to me, scenes of early visitation still gleaming amid the memories of youth. Fitting situation for such thoughts, becalmed two miles outside the Shoals, waiting, like Micawber, for something, in the way of a wind, to turn up. Oh for a little southerly breeze now, to set us towards the Pool! As we la}' in sight of the three islands — Star, Appledore and Smutty Nose — Frank said, as a slight breeze fanned up from the north : " Like St. Paul, when he came in sight of the three taverns, we will thank God and take courage." Frank is a philosopher, and, to make the calm less burden- some, he told me stories of his early sea life that were very entertaining. He has many wise conceits and practical sug- gestions, but his modesty dooms him to a position like the flower that is born to blush unseen. But during the calm he described to me a plan — original or not I cannot say — for saving fishermen from inconvenience who come down to the Pool for bait: that is, by hoisting flags on board the schooners to let those from Gloucester and other places know just where to go to procure the needed supply without going into port. The plan is ingenious and practicable. We were, at 11 130 a. m., past the Shoals with a gentle wind urging us on towards Boone Island, some ten miles distant. We laid her course with a S. E. breeze, and then took things easy, lying back — Frank and I — talking about the Pool and the happy hours of the past crowded so full with enjoyment. 'trial trip of the JENNIE B. 17 We were soon off York Ledge, a ver}- dangerous spot, with York Harbor in the back ground, fast becoming a popular wa- tering place, with cottages dotted along the several beaches beyond, formed into communities from towns as remote as Con- cord, Manchester, Great Falls and nearer localities, with Cape Neddock the terminal point. Fleets of mackerel fishers were around us and in sight, prospecting for their fares, and the Jennie B. moved 'gallantly on to her destination at the rate of six knots an hour, with Boone Island light on her weather beam, and the sea glorious beneath the sparkle of the summer sun, warranting the apostrophe: Oh Jennie B.! fair Jennie B.! The waves that round thee leap Seem full of fondest love for thee, Queen Beauty of the deep. With playful dalliance they fling Their snow wreaths round thy way, And, bowing like a sentient thing. Thou seem'st as glad as they. As an episode we spoke a fisherman off Boone Island light who indulged in an emphatic and characteristic grumble because there were so many dogfish round, that nothing else could be caught. These fish are the mosquitoes of the deep — always ready to bite. At 3:15 p. m., we were opposite Wells Beach, making better time with wind S. S. E. and considerable of it, with Cape Porpoise in prospect for the night, where we an- chored at 7 p. M., thirteen hours from Rockport, having had all sorts of wind and weather — storm and calm — to attend us. We voted the Jennie B. a success. The threatening clouds had no fear for us. "And calm and peaceful was our sleep, Rocked in the cradle of the deep." Early the next morning we completed our trip and arri\'ed at the Pool at 8 a. m. Thus terminated a delightful voy- age, in which the Jennie B. sustained her reputation as a sea- boat, her proprietor confirmed his satisfaction VN'ith her acqui- sition, the captain realized the delight of a true sailor in com- x8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. mand of a trim-built vessel, and the crew — all two of them- more than satisfied with everything. Said Tom Tarpaulin to his clium, Bob Reefpoint at the rail, " This 'ere 's a craft, now, as is somc^ In which I 'd allers sail." " Me, too," said Bob, " a craft as fine As ever sailed the sea; For gracefulness in every line, Give me the Jennie B." BIDDEFORD POOL AS A WATERING PLACE. THERE is no resort on the whole Atlantic coast that Biddeford Pool is second to as a summer watering place. I speak from my own experience, and my readers will pardon me if my en- thusiasm runs strong in this direction. Having visited various sea-shore resorts from Maine to Florida, I find that there is something lacking in them that gives to life the pleasures and joys that I find at the Pool. Although the hotels do not com- pare with those at Cape May, Long Branch, Newport and Nantasket, in splendor and fine appointments, yet they are all kept on a good principle, and one is very sure to get what he pays for. Those who seek a quiet retreat, away from the tur- moil and bustle of the city, cannot fail to find at the Pool that quiet and rest they need; and those who are fond of deep-sea fishing, boating and bathing, are sure to find a place that has no superior in this direction. Nice boats and intelligent skip- pers, who are very accommodating, make a fishing trip a real pleasure. If the wish is for sailing, a splendid sail among the islands may be enjoyed. The pure sea air and elegant scenery serve to make the heart glad and happy. Those who wish for only as much of the sea as can be had in row-boats, will have no trouble to get this in perfection at the Pool. A chance is offered for a row down the harbor among the shipping, and around the islands. Those who desire still water can also find inland waters just suited to their tastes. Another great fea- ture is bathing. A fine beach, where one can enjoy the sport 20 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. of sea-bathing, near the hotels, with the breakers rolling in, is a nice place to partake of a salt-water rough and tumble bath. Those who prefer still water will find plenty of opportunities for this. Fishing from the rocks always delights the children, and the older ones do not fail to improve the opportunity when offered ; while there is no place that has better advantages for deep-sea fishing. Are you a lover of nature? Then you will find much to amuse and instruct. The beautiful shore, coves and high bluffs, all washed by the waters of the Atlantic, are a school for the student of nature. My recollection of the Pool dates back previous to 1840. I well remember, though but a small bo}^ then, how my mother used to get her three children ready for the summer vacation, and the pleasure of our yearly visit to the Pool has never been effaced from my memory. I look forward to it at the present time with the same interest. At the time I first went to the Pool, the Portland, Saco and Portsmouth railroad was not built, and my father took his family from Dover, by the old stage route, to Biddeford. I can just remember the old-fashioned stage, the jolly driver, and how we children enjo3^ed the ride. Dr. Horace Bacon, of Biddeford, with whom Vv^e became ac- quainted, entertained us several times at his house. Wm. Lit- tlefield, of Saco, who owned a line of stages, took us to the Pool, and continued to do so for many years. A singular coinci- dence, and one worth mentioning, is the fact that, after a lapse of thirty-eight years, this same Wm. Littlefield carried my fam- ily to the Pool, from Saco, consisting of the same number of children as my father's family — two boys and a girl — and of nearly the same ages, and continued to carry us until he gave up his stable business. It gives me great pleasure to renew my acquaintance with Mr. Littlefield, from year to year, and I have often enjoyed a ride with him to the Pool since he gave up business. This I have mentioned incidentally as a bit of his- tory, and also as a mark of respect to an old friend who has the confidence of all who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. We wish him health and strength in his declining years. BIDDEFORD POOL. 21 The first house to entertain visitors at the Pool was the Mansion House, kept by Christopher Hussey, Sr,, and wife. Mrs. Hussey acted as landlady, and her pleasant, motherly, Quaker style will long be remembered by those who enjoyed her hospitality. The families of Peter Lawson and Alexander Wright were the first regular summer boarders. They went to the Pool about 1833, and became guests of the Mansion House during the hot weeks of summer, and continued their annual visits for nearly fifty years. One little incident is worth mentioning" to show the difference between then and now as regards hotel bills. The first year that Mr. Lawson stopped at the Mansion House, when he got ready to leave, he asked the landlady for his bill. She duly presented it, and after Mr. L. had looked it over, he asked her if she had not made a mis- take, as he saw, by the figures, that he had only been charged one dollar and twenty-five cents a week. The landlady re- plied in her quaint Quaker manner, " If thee thinkest it is too much thee may take off some." In 1837 Christopher Hussey, Jr., succeeded his mother, and became at once a popular land- lord. It was at this house my father stopped on his first visit to the Pool, and for many years the family found at Mr. Hus- se3-'s a restful summer home. My memory takes me back to the year 1838, and I can remember the joUy time we had with "Uncle Chris'," as he was called. Who, of all that company now living, that used to gather from year to year under his roof, does not remember the pleasant and social times enjoyed under the old " Balm-o'-Gilead tree," or strolling on the shores, gathering shells and mosses, or taking an evening row to Wood Island in the little boat "Jabe?" On pleasant days in summer a great many transient visitors came from Saco and Biddeford to spend the day and get a nice fish dinner, gotten up in Mrs. Hussey's best style. And those happy hours of my childhood will never be blotted from memory as long as reason holds her sway. Mr. Hussey continued the business with much success until his death, in 1876. Since that time his widow* and daugh- *Recently deceased. 3 22 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. ters have carried on the business, and the kind treatment their p'uests receive at their hands alwavs insures them a full house. Mr, Daniel Holman was the next to entertain visitors. He began in a small way in a one-story cottage. Business increas- ing from year to year, he made addition after addition, until he could accommodate one hundred and twenty-live persons. The old Highland House was well known for its pleasant location, comfortable quarters and genial landlord. This place was pat- ronized annually by families from many states of the Union, who always found, at Mr. and Mrs. Holman's, kind and hos- pitable treatment. Among the visitors who yearly found a cordial welcome were Senator Cragin, Hon. John P. Hale, Oliver Wendell Holmes, Hon. Anson Burlingame, Hon. N. P. Banks, Dr. Nathan Lord and Dr. Truman M. Post. Mr, Holman was a very energetic and persevering man. At the age of eighty he took the contract to carry the daily mail for four years from Biddeford to Biddeford Pool, a distance of eight miles. He continued in the hotel business until his death, in July, 1878; his wife survived him but a few da3's. Mr. Holman was suc- ceeded by his grandson, Walter S. Starkweather, who opened ,the house in 1879, ^'^^ '^^^ with great success in catering to the wants of his guests. In the fall of 1879 ^^'* Starkweather had the old Highland House removed from the spot on which it had stood for so many years, and in its place he erected one of the best hotels there was on the eastern coast. The new Highland House, as it was called, was truly a model house. Its appointments were all first-class, and it was litted with all the modern improvements. Three hundred people could be accommodated at this hotel. Mr. Starkweather continued in the business two years, and was well patronized. In April, 1882, the house caught fire and was burned to the ground, with all its contents. The lot on which it stood is one of the best at" the Pool, and we hope to see another hotel built on the same spot. In 1844 Mr. Moses Hill leased the Cutts House for five 3'ears, and kept it as a summer boarding house. This house was pat- BIDDEFORD POOL. 23 ronized by people from Lowell for a number of years. Mr. Hill was a popular landlord, and during the summer months his house was well filled with guests. In 1849 Mr. Isaac Bick- ford bought the Cutts property at the Pool, made additions to the house, and kept it as a hotel under the name of the Pool House. Mr. Bickford was very successful, and many are now living who look back with pleasure to the happy days they passed while under the care of the genial and courteous host of the Pool House, who is still living at the advanced age of eighty- nine.* Mr. Bickford gave up the business in 1862, sold the house to James Br^'ant, who carried on the hotel for a number of years, and then sold to the present proprietor, Mr. Frederick Yates, who changed its name from Pool to Yates House. Mr. Yates was a young man when he commenced hotel business, but his energy and perseverance won for him that success which comes to others through luck. His first step was to remodel the house, by making greater additions for the accommodation of summer travel, and to improve the surroundings in such a manner as should well please those who sought his house for a retreat during the hot weather. Mr. Yates has been very pros- perous, and at the present time he not onl}- runs his house at the Pool, but is also landlord of the Biddeford House, situated in the city proper. In the season of 1881, Mr. Yates, in con- nection with his other business, took the Sea- View Hotel at the Pool, but other matters were so pressing that he retired from it at the end of the season. -j- In 1847 Mr. John C. Hussey rebuilt his house and opened it to accommodate the sea-shore travel. The Ocean House was well patronized from year to year, those who came under its roof found a hearty welcome, and nothing was left undone that could promote the welfare of its guests. Mr. Hussey car- ried on the business for a great many years, and then retired in favor of his son Charles. After it came under the manage- ment of the latter it was a popular resort for the Canadian * Since the above was written Mr. Bickford lias passed away, at the ripe age of 81) years, months, t Yates House destroyed by fire June 188J. 24 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. people; and for many years they made the Ocean House their summer home. Mr. Hussey was well spoken of by his guests for his kind and obliging manners and attention to their wants, and gained many friends by his gentlemanly deport- ment and disposition to please. He continued the business until 1879, when he sold the house to Mr. Fred T. Brown, of New York, who made large purchases of property at the Pool. Mr. Brown remodeled the house and changed its name to Sea- View. He also removed the outbuildings, laid out w^alks and drive- ways, and there is no hotel at the Pool that surpasses it in fine appointments. In 1881 Mr. Brown opened it to the public with Mr. Fred Yates as manager. In 1882 Mr. S. New- man was chosen manager, and his popularity as a landlord soon became known. Latterly it has been under the manage- ment of Mr. J. A. Bailey, who has had much experience in hotel business, and, judging from the past, great success is predicted for the Sea- View. In 1862 Capt. G. L. Evans commenced to entertain visitors at his place, which was known as the Ellsworth House. This house was well patronized, for its fine location nxide it at once a favorite resort. Capt. Evans' success was due to his kind and courteous manners, and he will ever be remembered by those who have gathered beneath his roof as an attentive and obliging landlord. Capt. Evans continued the business until 1876, when failing health obliged him to retire. In this short sketch I have endeavored to give a brief outline of the summer hotels at the Pool, but for the want of time and space I am unable to enter more fully into the details as they have occurred from time to time since I became a visitor at that place. There is one fact which perhaps is worth mentioning, and that is, that not one of those who first started hotel business at the Pool is now living. They have crossed the shore of time, whose sands show the imprints of no returning footsteps. But they will ever live in the hearts of all those who remember the pleasant days they have enjoyed while at Biddeford Pool. The History of the Pool is replete with reminiscences and BIDDEFORD POOL. 25 incidents. I shall not attempt to go deeply into its history, but will just call to mind a few facts in reference to the earl}- set- tlement of the place and the origin of its name, and I trust this imperfect sketch may remind some one besides m3'Self of the pleasant days passed there. It appears from history, that Richard Vines, the founder of the towns of Saco and Bidde- ford, had a patent right, under the English government, of the land now known as Biddeford Pool. This land, by title, was conveyed to one Jordan, who sold it, in 1658, to Brian Pendle- ton and Capt. Roger Spencer. In 1660 Spencer sold his part to Pendleton, who took up his abode there, and the place was known for many years as Pendleton's Neck. Rev. Seth Fletcher, well known among the early settlers of Maine, mar- ried Pendleton's only daughter, Mary, who had one child which they named Pendleton Fletcher. This child was adopted by his grandfather, who gave to him the land known as Pendle- ton's Neck, together with Wood Island and other property in the vicinity. Pendleton Fletcher took possession of the estate, bequeathed to him by his grandfather, about 1680, and the place has been known since that time as Fletcher's Neck. This name it still retains and its geographical position is known by it. The name by which it is more familiarly known, at the present time, was adopted by the visitors. In 1737 Batchelor Hussey, of Nantucket, bought one-half of Fletcher's Neck, together with Wood Island, of the Fletcher heirs. The next year Mr. Hussey built the house now known as the Mansion House, which was, as I have before staled, the first house to entertain visitors at the Pool. Capt. Thomas Cutts, of Saco, bought the other half of the property and moved there, not far from 1800. Capt. Cutts was a successful ship- master, and at one time was sole owner and master of his ship. He made many prosperous voyages, being absent from home many years at a time. Soon after he retired from sea, he built a wharf and stores, and at once commenced ship-building on quite an extensive scale. When the war of 181 2-' 14 broke out he had quite a large number of ships which were engaged in 2b GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. the West India trade. During the war, the English frigate Bulwark came in, anchored off Wood Island, and sent two boats on shore, commanded by the first lieutenant. As soon as they landed they commenced to destroy the property of Capt. Cutts. Three ships (the Harmoine, Catherine and Equa- tor) were demolished, and one that was in the course of con- struction was burnt on the stocks. Some of the remains of the three vessels destroyed are still to be seen. Another ship was taken out to sea and held until redeemed by Capt. Cutts, he paying $6,000. Not being satisfied with the depredations that had already been committed, the keys of the stores were demanded, and the sailors were allowed to help themselves to anything they wished in the shape of clothing, hats, caps, whis- key, rum, etc. Besides destroying two other small vessels that did not belong to Capt. Cutts, and which they did against or- ders, no other damage was done to the place. And it ap- peared, from what was afterward learned, that this work of de- struction was the result of spite. It seems that, previous to the war, the lieutenant of the Bul- wark was in command of a brig, bound from the Provinces to Boston, with a load of grindstones. This vessel sprung aleak and he put into the Pool for a harbor, asking permission to unload the cargo on the wharf in order to find the leak. This was refused, and he was obliged to go to sea in a leaky vessel and make the best way he could to his point of destination. After the death of Capt. Cutts, his son Thomas succeeded him in business, and he is spoken of, by the people of the Pool, as a man of sterling integrity and one whose heart was always open to the wants of those in need. He sold his property at the Pool and afterwards went West, where he accumulated quite a fortune, and won the respect and confidence of all who knew him. He died while in the prime of life, but his memory will ever live in the hearts of those who knew of his kind and benevolent acts. I can just remember him and the pleasant sails I have had up and down Saco river in his little white whale-boat. BIDDEFORD POOL. zj The stores and wharves built by Capt. Cutts are still stand- ing, and, although the wharves are in a rather dilapidated con- dition, the stores look good for a number of years. The old store, as it is called, is one of the land-marks of the Pool. I can look back to the time when, a boy, I used to chmb the winding stairs and go up into the cupola, where, with other boys of my age, I would sit for hours at a time, cracking nuts and loooking out upon the ocean, watching the vessels as they sailed up and down by the Pool. The view from the cupola was grand : Saco Ba}- with its islands, the harbor and shipping on the one hand, and the broad Atlantic on the other. I hardly pass the old store without being reminded of the changes that have taken place since the crew of the Bulwark set themselves up in business there. When I lirst went to the Pool there were but thirteen fami- lies living there, with a population of about seventy-five. Onh' two of the heads of those families still survive. It gives me great pleasure to recall my early associations with those who have passed away, for I knew them for their christian virtues and social qualities, and I wash I could speak of them one by one, for the good impressions I had of them in my younger da3's have never been changed. It affords me much enjoyment to meet, from time to time, those two who are still living, and renew past friendship, for I alwa3^s get something good when in their company. Ma}^ peace and prosperity ever be their lot, and " their last days be their best days." At the present time there are fifty-three families living there, with a population of about two hundred. Quite a number of the former inhabitants have moved away — some of whom have settled in the Western states, and others have found occupations nearer the old homestead. A STORM AT THE POOL. The different points of interest about Biddeford Pool are so graphically stated by Capt. W. F. Goldthwait, in a rhymed description of a storm at the Pool, that I cannot refrain from printing it here, as a local specimen of the intellectual merit of the locality. The changes it has undergone in preparing it for the press but make more apparent its original strength. The clouds were gathering in the east, And to the westward swiftly flew, And o'er the southern sky they cast Their deep and darkening hue. The sea-bird, in her ocean nest, Seemed noting the wild tempest's sway, And, as she pecked her mottled breast, Poured forth a timely lay: " Though skies be dark, no fear have we Who live beside the heaving sea. We 've watched the rise of many a storm. Have seen its power in evei'y form. And Nature's phases aye unfold. In the wave that flashed and the cloud that rolled; The quack of the wild duck darting by, The loon's hoo-hoo, the sea-gull's cry ; The distant lands, uplooming clear. In the evening's dewy atmosphere. And ships, that seem to sail in air, Uplifted by the mirage there ; 4 jff GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. The murky clouds that hurry past, The mists that gather thick and fast, Tlie shifting \vinds, the eastern " glin," The waves, like mountains, rolling in: All these, and signs in every form, We've marked before the coming storn-i." Hark to the Storm King's boisterous roar!! List to the waves that lash the shore. Bringing from the far off sea Sounds of its awful minstrelsy ! And, all along our rock-bound coast. The storm-fiends rage from post to post„ And mermaids sing their wild refrain Which the winds whistle back again. From Poqroise Cape to Wood Isle light The seas display their caps of white ; Far o'er the Bay to Lizzie Cape The maddened surges roar and leap, And all around our shores, the while. The breakers into mountains pile ; No quiet at the Pool is found Until the sea has reached its bound. Upon the highest hill we stand And see the waves assail the land, Hurling their waters to our feet And damping us with vagrant sleet. We look away to Fortune's Rocks That whiten with the billowy shocks. And o'er the beach at old Sovith Point, Where ocean seems all "out of joint." Beach Island calls our gaze away. Half hidden in the foaming spray. And " Washerwoman " foams and boils, And wrings and twists in sudsy toils. To East Point is attached her line. On which her fleecy blankets shine ; While there, where Dancing Berry lies. The furious waves assail the skies. And Gooseberry Isle and Isle of Wood Seem deluged by another flood. Unlike that August day when we, For cod and haddock outward bound. Impelled the graceful Jennie B. Off to famed Tanto fishing ground, ui 3TORM AT THE POOL. ji And, finding none, 't was made pretence That quest of quiet brought us there; *' Ah yes," said Post, "and in that sense We've found it, with a lot to spare." Now darkness settles and we iurn To where the cheerful home fires burn, And think of those upon the deep For whom wives, mothers, sisters weep. Wood Island light beams like a star, To warn the sailors from afar, While the deep-sounding bell we hear, Proclaiming death and danger near. And then our earnest prayers arise To God of ocean, earth, and skies, That he, by his Almighty arm, May save the sailor from all harm; But even in fear, oh Holy One, We humbly say, "Thy will be done." THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. THE principal business of the Pool is fishing and lobster-catch- ing. About two thousand lobster traps are used. Five or six small fishing crafts are owned here and are engaged in shore fishing, some of which do a " pleasuring " business in the sum- mer. The fish taken off the coast are sword fish, halibut, blue fish, cod, haddock, mackerel, cusk, hake and dog-fish. Dur- ing the months of August and September, 1881, the fishermen captured five hundred sword fish, weighing upon an average four hundred pounds each, for which they received from two to six cents per pound, according to the demand. Let me illustrate fishing generally before giving an ac- count of the particular kinds, in the capture of which I have had some experience; and I can perhaps do it better by giving a dialogue between myself and a "regular fisherman," trusting the reader will glean from this some information, which would take much longer if told in any other way: AN OLD FISHERMAN INTERVIEWED. " Good morning. Captain," said I, (as I seated myself on a log beside an old skipper who had been out all night tending his trawls), "what luck did, you have?" " Morning, sir," said he, as he shifted his quid of tobacco to the other side and hitched up his oil pants, "not much luck to- night." "What was the matter; couldn't you get bait?" " Well, bait is very skerce, but I managed to git a few small THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 33 * mackerel, but the plaguy dog-fish are so plenty that they won't let a decent fish get onto the trawls." "The dog-fish, then, I take it, are not very profitable?" " Well, no, they ain't exactly, about this time ; but I have seen the time when I could make something catching 'em." " Then there has been a time when dog-fish were worth catching?" "Yes, during the war, when oil, like gold, was way up, a man could make good wages at this kind of fishing; but sence then nobody wants to have anything to do with 'em." " How do you manage to get the oil? " " Well, you see we take out the liver and throw the fish away; we put the liver into barrels and it makes out itself; then we dip the oil off for the market." "How many does it take for a barrel of oil? " "Well, it takes about thirty to make a gallon, I reckon; so you see the fish are worth less than a cent apiece, which don't pay much, if you reckon your gear anything." "What time of the year do you commence cod-fishing?" " Well, as a general thing, about the first of May, or as soon as fresh herring come." " Where do the herring come from ? " " They come in schools from the south, the same as other fish, and we catch 'em in nets and use 'em for bait." "Do you always get a plenty?" " No, not allers, we are bothered to death, almost, sometimes, for bait; then agin we get 'nuff bait and there ain't no fish." " Then I take it the fishermen have hard luck sometimes ? " " Yes, the old saying's true, ' Fishermen's luck, wet foot and hungry inards.' " " I suppose you find it pretty rough on the banks sometimes? " " Well, we do. We go out very often, get plentv of bait, set our trawls, and, before we get a chance to haul 'em, it'll come on to blow and get so rough that we have to get under way and make a harbor, and leave our trawls until we get a chance to go after 'em. Sometimes we find 'em and sometimes we 34 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. * don't, and when we don't we get new ones and try it agin. Sometimes when there's plenty of fish it will be so blowy and rough we can't get out for a week, and then agin we get out and there ain't no bait; so you see it's kinder hard work." " But you do have some good fishing? " " Yes, we hit on 'em once in a while. We get out, find plenty of bait and fish, have good weather, and then we jest hoe in, and when we are doing well we forget all about the bad luck." "I think it must be exciting when the fish are biting good?" " Well, you bet it's jest fun ; and then I would like to have you along when we get right into business. You'd find it dif- ferent work from catching trout with a pin-hook." "Do you find many haHbut?" "No, we don't; halibut is rather skerce on our coast." " Where are halibut mostly caught ? " "On George's and Grand Banks; very few catched on the inshore grounds." "Do you fish for mackerel?" " Not much ; we used to years ago, but they got to using seines and it broke 'em up, and it don't pay to try for 'em now. Catching mackerel, like everything else, has had its day, that is, catching 'em with a hook. I've seen the time when mack- erel fishing has paid, but that was before the seines got about." " How many mackerel did you ever know one vessel's crew to catch in a day with a hook?" "About seventy-five barrels." "That would be lively work, I should think?" " Well, you bet it is. When a vessel's crew gets seventy- five barrels of mackerel in a day, and get 'em taken care of ready for fishing next day, they have got to keep their hands out of their trouses." " Did you experience the same difficulties mackerel-fishing that you did cod-fishing?" "Jest about the same; sometimes we would cruise a week without catching a fish, and then agin we would find a plenty of fish and they wouldn't bite at all." THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL, j/ "Pretty exciting work when they do bite well, isn't it?" " Well, 'tis. When they take right hold in earnest, you can haul and slat 'em off as fast as you are a mind to. I think it is the best fishing that we have." "Then the most mackerel are taken now with seines.^" " Yes they be." " How many did you ever know to be taken at one time with the seine? " "About three hundred barrels." " How do the fishermen who don't use the seine, like this? " "Well, they don't like it very well; it breaks up the mackrel that used to come in shore years ago, and the small boats did first-rate catching 'em, but now it is very seldom that they come into the bay, and when they do, they are so shy they won't bite." "I understand they use steamers for seining?" " Yes, they do, but not for mackrel; the steamers are used for pogy-fishing." "What use do they make of the porgy fish?" " They make oil out of them. They have factories where they extract the oil and the refuge they use for fertilizing." " How does this branch of business pay ? " " It don't pa}^ very well on the coast of Maine. It used to, but them days are gone and the fishermen ain't sorry." " Did it injure the fishing business ? " " Well, we think it did, a great deal." " In vyhat way ? " " Well, they came right into the bay and drove all the pogys off so the fishermen couldn't git any for bait, and finally they broke up pogy fishing on the coast of Maine altogether." " Do they follow the porg}^ business elsewhere ? " " Yes, on New Jersey coast, on Long Island sound and around Block Island." " Do you follow cod-fishing in the winter months ? " " Well, we don't do much of it now ; we used to have some fine vessels here, and we done well 3^ears ago winter fishing, but 36 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. fish got skerce and we had to go so far for 'em, we had to give it up." " How far did you have to go? " " From ten to thirty miles the last of fishing, but twenty years ago we had good fishing right out here in our channel. Then we could do good business in our small boats." " How do you account for the scarcity of fish ? " " Well, I think they have been catched up, so many fishing for 'em; and setting so many trawls has stopped 'em coming inshore." " How many trawls did you use to a vessel ? " "Well, we generally had about thirty-five hundred hooks to a man, and a vessel that carried a crew of ten men had about eight miles of fishing gear." "Pretty good string, that; and did you manage to get them all right ? " "Well, no; sometimes we would have to leave 'em. It would come on to blow after we got 'em set, and we would have to go in without 'em ; and when we went out agin, if we found 'em all right we was lucky; if not, we got some more." " Did you ever get caught out in a storm and have to weather it ? " " Well, no, I never did, but have come pretty nigh it. Some of our boats have. We was out one day, four vessels of us, and jest before we got our trawls in it come on a regular old-fashioned snow storm; the wind was all around the com- pass and we started for a harbor as quick as we could, and as good luck would have it, two of our vessels got into the harbor jest after dark all right, but the other two didn't fare so well. One of 'em run ashore and done considerable damage, the other made the land, and in gibing over broke the main boom and had to anchor. It blowed so hard they parted both cables and had to put to sea. When the storm abated the}^ got into Gloucester putty well shook up. They lost their trawls and boats, but by skillful management saved themselves and vessel." " I don't think I should fancy that kind of fishing." THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. J7 " Well, I guess you wouldn't. It is all well enough for them who have good homes and plenty of everything, to set down by a good fire on a cold winter's night and enjoy themselves, but I guess they don't think much about the poor fishermen who are out buffeting the terrible storms, trvingr to make an honest living for themselves and famihes." " I hope they get well paid for the hardships they undergo ? " " Well, they don't, allers, as the fish-buyers take advantage of 'em, and the men who risk their lives git the least pay." " Yes, but we have to pay a good round price at the market for fish." " That's jest it, they beat the fishermen down and they have to take what they can git, and the marketman fixes his price to suit himself; so you see how it is. The fisherman in order to make a living, and a poor one at that, has to sell for what he can git, while the marketman makes his own price, and a pretty good one it is, ginerally." SWORD-FISH. Taking sword fish, is one of the industries of the Pool. " In form this fish resembles the mackerel. The scales are very smaD; the jaws proper, and sometimes the sword, are crowded with small, acute teeth, often hardly perceptible. Swordfish are swift swimmers, and feed on mackerel and other small fish. The common species attain a length of twelve to twenty feet, and are found in the Mediterranean and on both sides of the Atlantic. Thev make their appearance at Block Island, Long Island Sound, early in the summer, and are found, during the summer and early fall, all along the coast from New York to Cape Sable, having here and there favorite feeding grounds. Their flesh, both fresh and salted, is highly es- teemed, as food, and in Boston, Portland, and other seaports, forms a considerable article of commerce. They seldom at- tack other large fish, except when in compan}^ with the thresher or fox shark. They have been known to pounce upon a whale, and after a terrible contest, come off victorious." S8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. The modus operandi of capture is as follows : All vessels that are fitted for sword-lishing, have, at the extreme end of the bowsprit, what is called a pulpit. This is an iron rod, one and a half inches thick and three feet long, with an iron semi-circular band firmly secured at the top. It is well fastened to the bowsprit in an upright position. The har- pooner stands on the end of the bowsprit, within the iron pulpit, ready not to preach, but to practice. A pole, ten feet long and two inches in diameter, with an iron socket attached, is used to drive the dart into the fish. The dart is made of iron or composition, six inches long, and shaped like an arrow-head. The warp or line used is four hundred and eighty feet long, about the size of a common clothes line. One end of the line is secured to the dart, the other end is fastened to a barrel, and all but forty feet is wound around the same in such a manner that in case it is used it easily runs off. The pole and dart are always kept at the pulpit when cruising for sword-fish. It is the habit of these tish, in the warm da3^s of summer, to come to the surface of the water for food, when they can readily be detected by the dorsal fin which protrudes above the water. When discovered by " the lookout " at the masthead, the course of the vessel is laid right for the monster, and, with a little breeze to fill the sails, she soon gets near enough for the man in the pulpit to strike. As soon as the dart is thrown into the fish and he recovers from his surprise (for just a few seconds), he starts for the bottom of the sea like a shot out of a gun, and the barrel which is always in readiness is thrown overboard. This being done, another dart and line are procured and everything is ready for another strike. If another fish is not seen very soon, one of the crew takes the dory, rows to the barrel attached to the fish, and proceeds to haul him in. This work in most cases is soon accomplished. The fish is hauled up alongside the dory and a lance is put through his gills, to which he soon succumbs. He is then hoisted on board the vessel and the crew are all ready for another capture. THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. jg Having thus given the method of capturing the fish, let us imagine ourselves on board the yacht "Jennie B." setting sail for the sword-fish ground. I had invited a number of my friends to join me on this trip. Three of them — a gentleman from New York, one from Boston, and the other from Law- rence, Mass., — kindly accepted my invitation. The morning was beautiful, and at 5, a. m., we slipped our mooring and filled away with every prospect of a good day. While we were gliding along to our destined point, some fifteen miles south-east from the Pool, the time was taken up with pleasant reminiscences of the sea, and some pretty good fish stories were told. All on board were cheerful and hoping for a suc- cessful voyage. At 10:30, a. m., we were out fifteen miles from land, and had reached the place where we expected to have some sport. And here let me give this day's experience just as I witnessed it on board of my own craft. The captain had taken his stand in the pulpit, ready for action, while a man was stationed at the foremast-head to discover the fish. A large number of vessels were seen engaged in the same busi- ness as ourselves. The " lookout " had seen a splash quite a distance from us, and all hands were scanning the surface of the deep, with Eves out to windward, Eyes out to leeward, Eyes out ahead of us, Sword-fish to mark : Sword-fish to right of us. Sword-fish to left of us, Sword-fish in front of us. Out on a lark. I was consulting my watch noting the time, (11, a. m.), when the " lookout " sighted the long-expected object off our lee bow about two hundred yards distant. But the wind, which had been very light all the morning, had entirely left us now, and we were becalmed. Captain Jim, nothing daunted, called the lookout at the mast-head, and, after putting the needed gear into the small boat, they proceeded to execute 40 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. the design of capturing this fish. All eyes were bent upon the men. They rowed very cautiously until they got as near as they thought proper, when Captain Jim was seen to rise in the boat, and, with a well-directed throw, the dart was driven deep into the monster. So well was the work done, that in thirty minutes from the time the blow was struck, our first sword-fish lay on the deck of the Jennie B., we having used the main halyards to hoist him on board. We soon saw another, but, before we could get ready to attack, he disap- peared. The breeze had now sprung up and it looked a little more favorable for our business. Will Hussey was now in the pulpit, and, with his quick eye, discovered another sworder a short distance on our weather bow. Captain Jim was at the helm, and, by skillful manoeuvering, managed to get our ves- sel in good position, when, before the fish was aware of any dan- ger, the dart was driven clear through his body. This opera- tion was immediately followed by throwing the barrel over- board to which the line was attached; and, with this arrange- ment, we could leave Mr. Fish to his own meditation, while we sought other conquests. We cruised around for some time without discovering another, and concluded to take the one on board that was fast to the barrel. Just as we were ready to carry out this design. Captain Jim, who was now in the pul- pit, sang out "Luff, luff, quick! there's one right there!" and, sure enough, not fifty 3^ards distant, the betra3dng fin could be seen. With the same skill displayed that had marked our suc- cess thus far, we were soon in position for Captain Jim to give the fish what he called a " settler," and so it proved, for with strong arm and iron nerve he settled the dart nearly through his body. As it was getting toward 2, p. m., we thought best not to throw the barrel overboard, but hold it in readiness to do so if need be, accordingly we held on to the fish, on board our vessel, hauling in on the line as he came near the surface and paying out as he went down. And here I had an opportunity to watch one of these sea monsters in his dying struggles, and I will ven- THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 41 ture to say that if thev knew their strength, and how to use it, no vessel would dare to approach them. While we were at work with this one, from the deck of our vessel, one of the men was sent with the small boat to take care of the fish attached to the barrel, so as to have the care of both prizes going on at once, but found it no boy's play to handle the one from the deck. We would haul him up some twenty fathoms, then down he would go again like lightning. This was done a number of times, and we found we had a lively player on the end of the line. But Captain Jim got tired of this fun. " Now," said he, "let us all take hold and rouse the fellow up." All hands agreed to this, and soon we had our prize up along side the yacht, when with the aid of the lance, we were once more con- querors. We had just got our fish on deck, when the small boat came along side with the other trophy, and in a short time three fine sword-tish, weighing about live hundred pounds each, lay side by side on deck. It was just sixty minutes from the time we struck our last fish that we had him safely on board. It being now 3, p. m., I told the captain that we had better shape our course for the harbor, for I was anxious that my friends who were with me, and had enjoyed so well the sport of the day, should reach their homes before night. We were ver}' tired, for there had been no time since 10, A. M., that we had not been actively engaged in doing something towards the accomplishment of our object. While we were sailing along with a fair breeze towards our port of destination, our time was taken up in pleasant conversation, and the haps and mishaps of the sword-lishermen were freelv discussed. Noticing that Captain Jim was getting a little uneasy, and guessing the cause of his anxiety, I ventured to ask him if he thought we should be able to get into the harbor before dark. He shook his head and replied, " No sir, I don't." We soon found out that he was correct in his prediction, for at 6, p. m., the wind had entirelv left us, our gallant little craft lay becalmed on the bosom of the mighty deep, seven miles from land, and when the sun disappeared 42 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. behind the Western hills it went down upon as fine a sword- fish day as ever was seen outside of Biddeford Pool. At 9, p. M., a light wind sprang up, and, trimming our sails to catch the breeze, we were once more bound on our homeward track, reaching our homes at 11, p. m., all highly delighted with this day's sport. It is pleasant to note the fact that all the other Pool boats were successful, each capturing from one to four sword-fish. During August and September, each year, many fishermen and mackerel seiners go prepared with sword-fish gear, that they may employ their time and make a dollar during the scar- city of mackerel and other fish. There are many sword-fish incidents worth relating. One of the Pool fishermen related to me the fact that his vessel at one time had out eight barrels, and the extreme ones were eight miles apart when they commenced to take them up. All were secured. One fish, after being struck, went straight to the bottom, sixty fathoms, or three hundred and sixty feet, and stuck fast in the mud ; it required the united efforts of eight men to extricate him. When he was brought to the sur- face it was found that the whole length of the sword and half his head had been buried in the mud. Sword-fish swim with great velocity. Vessels very often go into dock for repairs, and, when examined, planks have been found pierced by the swords of these fish. There are now on exhibition, in some of the museums, veritable swords broken off just as they pene- trated planks five inches or more in thickness. Sword-fish have been captured of one thousand pounds weight. Some- times after being struck, instead of remaining on the bottom or keeping quiet, they have been known to carry a dory, with the end of the line made fast to it, for tw^o miles to wandward at a rapid rate. A few years ago, I, with two others, captured a seven hun- dred pound sword-fish; the story is rather an interesting one. We were sailing along quieth^, when, suddenly, a sword- fish made his appearance. We were far from being ready for THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 43 action, the warp in a tub being all kinked up from its last use. The dart was not attached to the rod, but there were lively times on that craft, and the striker was just able to reach the end of the bowsprit, with no time, we may say, to put himself even in a safe position to strike. Giving the monster a left- handed blow, which roused his spirit, down quicker than a flash the fish went for the bottom of the sea, the line fouled upon the anchor, and we had fine music forward. Fortunately the line did not catch so as to part it. It was drawn rapidly out of the tub, sometimes all clear, again in bunches, and the way the loose line flew around that boat was a caution to lands- men. Before he had run out all the line, one of the men got the dory alongside, and, placing the remaining line in the same, and attaching the end to the bow of the dory in such a manner that it could be easily cast off, if necessary, he remarked — " Now if you will hold on to your end of the line, I will mine," That fish carried the man two miles to windward, and by the time we could beat up to the boat, he had the fish up to the surface of the water and lashed to the side of the dorv. It may be easily imagined that we felt quite proud over our trophy. These fish are sometimes taken by splitting a mackerel and laying in it a hook ; a long line is then attached and the mack- erel is trolled through the water; but the method first described is the more common one. The following is an exceedingly interesting account of the capture of sword-fish, by a Cape Cod correspondent of a city paper, giving the particulars in the Cape dialect, also an- other part, not generally known, of the difficulty attending the procurement of the young sword-fish : " I've got a standin' offer of one hundred doUers for the first young so'dfish I can git," said a Cape Cod sword-fisherman. " You'd think," he continued, "tliat that was a hefty sort of an offer, when the fish is only bringin' eight cents a pound, but, ye see, tliere's never been a so'dfish seen in American waters less nor forty pounds, and only one at that. Where do they breed.'' Wall, that'.s the very p'int. They don't breed — leastwise around these diggins. I've been a so'dfishing around the south of the cape goin' on twenty year', and never see one less nor four foot long, and I've took thousands of 'em. 44 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. "Yes, it's a big business. I don't know jest how many are in it, but you kin count forty or fift}' sail right round here that makes it a p'int to take all they can git. July, August and September is the best months, and between the fust and 15th of September, in warm seasons, I've done pretty well and caught as many as 17 in a day, but that was extr'or'nary work. We hev a regular rig ; jest step aboard ; " and the reporter, who had been talking from the edge of the dock, accepted the invitation and jumped aboard the trim fore and aft schooner that, with its sharp bow and rakish masts, was not incomparable to the jaunty fish it followed. "There's not very much toggery to speak of," said the skipper, walking for- ward. "There, you see, is the place where the man stands in striking the fish — merely an iron stancheon extending up from the end of the bowsprit, with a resting pad of wood nailed to it, so the man can lean against it in striking. The harpoon is called a lily, and is always kept lashed near the rest, all ready, you see, for a 'mergency." " Why a lily.^" " Wall, the prongs are branched out something like a fiower. There are five or six, all barbed, and the whole thing ends in an iron cap that fits into a wooden handle about ten foot long. A line is made fast to the iron, that is about two hundred feet long, the other end being fastened to a keg or barrel. When we're out to sea, the watch is always in the foretop, and as soon as he sees a fish he sings out, and the harpooner takes his place in the rest, and, as soon as the man at the wheel gits sight of the fish, he tries to put it over the bow ; then the inan jams her with the iron ; the line is kept clear and, when it all runs out, the keg is tossed over for the fish to tow until tired out, and the schooner keeps away for another fish. Sometimes five or six are sighted and struck before any are taken in. The kegs are generally painted white and easily followed, and you usually don't have much of a fight with the fish, as towing the keg a mile plays 'em out. But sometimes we git a big fellow on, and then there's what green hands call fun, though I don't see it in that light. I call to mind one fish we struck off Nantucket a year or so ago, that kem near cleanin' us all out. We got on to hiin all right and followed close up, nothin' else bein' in sight, and me and two of the boys jumped into the dory and sono hed the keg aboard ; but as soon as we touched the rope to take in slack he started off, and you'd a thought we'd run foul of a whale. It was an hour before we got the fish alongside, the schooner keepin' on and by, but we were afraid of passing the rope, thinkin' it might pull out the iron. Wall, we gradually hauled in and I stood up, holding an oar already to hit the brute on the head, when it gave a kind of lunge or side cut, taking the oar right between my hands and knocking me head over heels down in the bottom. In the flurry, the man in the bow slacked the rope, and the next minute crunch kem the fish, and up its so'd kem through the planking, stickin' about a foot into the boat, not three foot froin me. I had sense enough to grab it, and while I hung on and lashed it with the painter, the boys pulled alongside the schooner and we got it aboard. He measured fourteen foot — a putty big one. In fair weather they lie mosth' on the surface and whether they're asleep or just sunning themselves is hard to tell." "It's a great sight," he added, "to see 'em in among the bony fish. They THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 4^ go just like a cavalryman, striking up and down, right and left, killin' hundreds of 'em; and I've seen 'em keep a-doing it, which shows they kind o'like the fun of it." The sword-fish is perhaps one of the most interesting of our coast fishes, and the one hundred dollars offered for a young one would be as safe as one thousand dollars, as the fish do not breed on this side of the Atlantic, and the young only being occasionally found out to sea in the mid- Atlantic or on the shores of the Mediterranean, where they are followed by the fishermen of Messina. Here a rowboat is used, having a tall mast, upon which the watcher sits. The young sword-fish, even if found here, would hardly be recognized, so different are they in appearance from the adults. A young histiophorous, seven inches long, resembles if anything a young stickleback more than it does a sword-fish, with a head like a plesiosaurus. The jaws are equal in length and armed with fine teeth ; the eyes are enormous for the size of the body, while fi'om the head over the dorsal and ventral region extend two sharp spines. When about sixteen inches long the dorsal fin has become higher, the spines begin to disappear, and the upper jaw commences to look like a sword. We had an opportunity, August, 1885, while the Jennie B. was anchored on one of our favorite fishing grounds, about four miles S. E, of Wood Island, of w^itnessing a most sangui- nary fight between two of these "monsters of the mighty deep," that was quite exciting to m^'self and guests — Rev. Ith- aman W. Beard, of Dover, N. H., and Peter D. Smith, of Andover, Mass, We were attending to our lines, when we were attracted by a great splashing not far from us, and two sword fish made a breach in the water engaged in a fearful conflict. They evidently "meant business," and put their swords to use like gladiators in an arena. The largest would w^eigh, probably, some five hundred pounds, the other was con- siderably smaller. The fight was too fierce to last long, and ended by the larger fish thrusting his sword through the body of the other, the blood spouting from the wound and coloring , the water near them a deep red. The thrust was too fiercely given to leave hope for the escape of its object, and the wounded fish sank to be seen no more. The victor rushed around, after he had done the deed, with the velocity of an express train, and for quite a distance, after he left, his black back was out of water. The sea near by was bloody for some time after the fight was over, and it was evident that the sav- 6 4.6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. age wound had proved fatal. It would have been an act of justice, had we been close enough, had Capt. Frank set the '2-rains' into the back of the fratricidal fish. SWORD-FISH CAPTURE ON THE JENNIE B. The following is a letter from the proprietor of the Jennie B. to a young friend, describing the capture of a monster of the deep off Biddeford Pool, during his summer vacation: — BiDDEFORD Pool, Maine, Aug. ii, 1884. My Dear Don : If you can be patient for a short time, I will tell you the story of one of my recent exploits in the Jennie B., that may be of interest to you. On Saturday morning at five o'clock we started on a fishing cruise, our crew consisting of Capt. Frank, Albert, Edward Sly, Peter D. Smith and myself. We started with a fair wind, and were soon outside of Wood Island. After a little discussion as to our destination we concluded that the Peak should be our objective point. The breeze continued good and the prospects were fine for the day, although the wind from the N. E. had made the sea a little lumpy. We had breakfast about six o'clock, consisting of boiled eggs, boned turkey, bread and butter and tea. By this time all eyes were upon the shore marks, and when Old Orchard Sands came in sight by Wood Island, and the Butter- Pot hills over the high ground of Cape Porpoise, we knew that the Peak had been reached, and, rounding to, we dropped anchor in twenty-six fathoms of water. We immediately commenced fishing with mackerel for bait, but the dogs were so fierce, and there were so many of them on the rail at the same time — the dog-killer being in requisition a little too often — we abandoned fresh bait and took to clams. Matters soon changed, and it was not long before we had some fine cod and haddock in our kid, the cod weighing from five to thirty pounds. The haddock were nice large specimens, two of which were dressed for an excellent chowder, that was ready at 12:30; but, as the chowder was about to be passed out upon deck, there came a cry: " A sword-fish! See him there just astern of us!" " Shall we go for him.? " asked Capt. Frank. "Yes, by all means," said I, and quickly our anchor was upon deck, the Jennie B. giving chase to the finny monster. " There he breaches," said Albert, " and," he continued, " I have never known a sword-fish to fin after such a perform- ance as that." We still plowed on, however, but no sword-fish came in sight. Order was given to about ship and proceed to the inner Peak, for the purpose of drifting for cod-fish, when, before proceeding far, we discovered a small sword-fish to windward. " He aint bigger'n one of our cod-fish," said Albert. Capt. Frank threw the dart at him, but it did not take effect. In a few min- utes we discovered a large fish to leeward, and went for him. When the Jen- nie B. was in good position, the dart, that had been airing on the end of the pole, was quickly transferred by Capt. Frank to his fishship below, while pass- ing vinder the bow of our good schooner. Albert shouted, from aloft, " I guess you have back-boned that sword-fish, Frank." Frank said nothing. '!lll!ll!i!ll[!llil!ni[IVIIIlllillH:i|i!!lll']liUlilMi|il'Tli:!l!IIIIJ'illUllHUl»aii,!i!l,liV'ti"' mm m lihilillimil iiP'illlP ir;:: '"i, ilk THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 47 but immediately came aft to surperintend matters. Our barrel had been left behind by mistake, so the end of the warp had been attached to the dorv and made ready to be cast off at a moment's warning. Frank paid out the line, travelling around the stern of the vessel, as he wished to keep the warp from fouling, and brought the dory up along-side as the last foot of the warp was being paved out. " Now whoever is going with this team has got to hurrv up," said Capt. Frank. Albert and I jumped in, and swiftly we left the side of the Jennie B., bound south. Albert remarked: "I never kriew a sword-fish to take a man toward home." How the water gurgled at the bow of our boat as she glided over the main at a 2.40 gait! After hauling us a mile or so, his lordship stopped for a little rest, and we embraced the opportunity for getting a little slack line to come and go on in our dory. Then Albert com- menced hauling, and I sat amidship with the oars, in order to obey the com- mand of "back water!" Three times the fish was hauled almost to the sur- face, and as many times we were treated to a gratuity in the shape of an ocean " skip," with our single hitch. Each time the fish came to the surface, and get- ting wind of something foreign to his nature, he would be off, but the fourth time the slapping of the monster's tail against the warp was more weak. I thought of the Portland vessel's dory that was pierced by a sword-fish, and divested m^'self of mv barvel, laying it one side — not wishing to use it, how- ever, to stuff into holes made by the sword-fish, but to be free from any incumbrance in case of accident. Soon Albert remarked: "He is growing feeble, and I think that in a few minutes you will see a handsome fish along- side." And we did. The warp was passed to me, and Albert, raising the fish's head with the gaff, reached his gills and made old ocean pretty red in the vicinity of the dory. He then took a rope and lashed the tail of the fish, which Avas secured to the stern of the dorj', the line still attached, and we rowed toward the Jennie B., that had all the time been trying to reach us against the wind. A few moments and the huge fish was on the vessel's deck, hoisted on board by the main throat halyards. And now for his length. The sword lav under the seat, as far aft as possible, while his tail rested upon the thwart bv the mainmast, all of thirteen feet; weight about four hundred pounds. The fish had one of the longest and finest swords I ever saw. In all snug, and Capt. Frank, noticing that the fish was well ironed, sarcastically said to Albert: "He looks as though he Avas hackboncd .'" Albert said nothing, but put on one of those looks you have seen him wear when thinking of the dog in the back yard, as he is questioned regarding the fruit there. We imme- diately wheeled around for home — time, one hour in capturing the fish. It was now 4, p. m., the breeze light, and our progress homeward slow, until we found ourselves becalmed four miles S. E. of Wood Island, and remained in almost the same position for three hours, with the exception of being brought nearer the land by the incoming tide. At 11, p. m. we passed in by Gooseberry Island, and at 11 :3o we rounded to and made fast to our moorings, Avhere the Jennie B. was allowed to rest upon the rise and fall of the tide till Monday morning. And there ends the tale of my fish. Saturday was a good day for sword-fish. The Brookmeyer yacht, " The Whisper," was fortunate enough to get one, and another one was secured by 48 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Capt. J. E. Goldthwait from the bow of the " Emma Pearl," after two dories had chased the fish for an horn* or two. It happened thus: It was calm, and Chas. Verrill and J. E. G. in one dory, and Paul Hussey and another man in a second dory went in pursuit of the same fish, but the fish ran the gauntlet of both and escaped, and the chase was abandoned. Afterwards the Brookmeyer's dory, manned by C. V. and J. E. G., went in chase, this time in company with James Bruell, (Emma Pearl). No chance offering, Capt. J. E. G. proposed taking the pulpit of the Emma Pearl, and letting James and Atwater Bruell row, so, with wind and rowing, the sword-fish was taken. J. W. S. HALIBUT. "This fish is characterized by a flat, oblong body, com- pressed vertically. The eyes and colored surface are on the right side; the lips large and fleshy, the lower jaw 'the longer. The common species grow to a length of from three to six feet, varying in weight fi"om one hundred to five hundred pounds. The right side is of an almost dark brown, and the left or under surface pure white. It is found from the coast of New York to Greenland and also on the Northern shores of Europe. The Boston market is supplied principally from Georo-e's and Grand Banks, and Nantucket Shoals. In summer it is caught by hook and line in shallow water, retiring to deeper in the winter; it is abundant in the Bay of Fundy and in the waters of Nova Scotia. It is an exceedingly voracious fish, feeding upon cod, haddock, skates, mackerel, flounders and other species of similar size." The foil owing extract from my diary I give for the benefit of the young folks: August 3, 1882. This is " children's day." In many places excursion parties are given for the benefit of children. The older people give up the day and devote their time wholly to the little ones. Now at the sea-side there are scores of children to amuse, when they get tired of playing in the sand or climbing the rocks. Fishing from the rocks is good sport, and taking a dory and rowing among the islands, is exhilarating, but deep-sea fishing seems to be the crowning delight of both old and young. The THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 49 Jennie B. was brought into requisition for the sole benefit of the children — those belonging to my family. The start for the outside tishing-ground was made at 11, a. m. We anchored and fished awhile near the " Hussey Buoy " about two miles out, but not finding fish very plent}^ we " up anchor " and pro- ceeded to the eastern edge of the channel, anchoring alongside of Captain Wm. M. Hussey, who had some gentlemen on board his boat; a St. Louis party. Not much luck there, either, only a few dog-fish and a stray cod or two. The chil- dren, however, enjoyed the sport. I had been in the habit, when out, of baiting a line and let- ting it " set " in the hope of perhaps capturing a halibut. By the voracious appetites of the dog-fish we were getting rather short of bait, so I cut up a pollock and baited my big line with that, and presently I felt something of more than ordinary size tugging away at the end of the line. I settled the hook into whatever it was, and commenced to draw. I presume that, had I been a regular fisherman, I should not have let the fish had his own way so much, but I did not want to get completely " tuckered out," and I was not hasty in drawing in my line. I made a mistake, as the sequel will show. Frank Goldthwait unreeled the line and Captain James E. Goldthwait stood by with the gaff. The fish ran out nearly all my double shot line of forty-five fathoms — two hundred and seventy feet — and I remarked to Frank, " Bend on the sword- fish warp if you need it, and let the fish have the barrel to play with." But after running twice, his "lordship" was willing to come my way once more, and with the perspiration standing on my brov^, I hauled the " critter," whatever it was, up about two-thirds of the distance from the bottom, when suddenly my gear gave away and down went the fish deeper into his native element, leaving me standing in blank astonishment upon the deck of the yacht, a disappointed lover of fish. Upon drawing in my line I found that the hook had been " boned " and the point gone. I determined to try again, but what was I to do for bait? j-o GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. A fine cusk lay in the tub, from which was cut a tempting morsel, and down went my line again for "chances." I remarked to Capt. Jim, " I think that we had better run in soon on account of the children, as the clouds begin to look dark, with every appearance of a thunder shower;" but, with almost the same breath, I continued, " I guess we had better wait a min- ute, as I have a rousing bite from some kind of a large fish." A few heavy " sags " stimulated my courage to pull a halibut, and, fetching the line a sudden draw, I succeeded in hooking the prize. I drew the fish a fathom or two; "Here, Frank," said I, "you don't seem to be very busy, here is a job for you to haul in this fish." He took hold in right good earnest, and, hand-over-hand, he hauled the " unknown " till it was near the surface of the water. To go under the boat was the next move of the fish, which hindered the capture very much. As soon as we caught a glimpse of him we recog- nized a good sized halibut, but the fish was not ours yet, by any means. What were we to do? As the fish struggled on the surface of the water, to have used the gaff would have been poor judgment, as the power he possessed, would have wrenched the gaff from the hand of the striker, and, prob- ably, down the fish would have gone by "jigging" the hook clear. The hook was set deep in the throat. This was awkward, as it was difficult to give the usual " settler " upon the snout. As soon as the fish became in a measure quiet, and the revolving motion ceased, he got that desired settler upon the end of his nose. The splashing and foaming of old ocean then ceased, and striking the gaff deep into the upper jaw of the fish, we made the matter pretty certain that we might carry that halibut home. It was quite a lift to bring the fish over the rail of the Jennie B., but strong arms accomplished it, and soon the treasure lay in the bottom of the vessel, much to the satisfaction of the children, who went into ecstasies over the capture. Upon reaching shore the hali- but was put upon the scales and he " tipped the beam " at one hundred and sixty-two pounds. THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 31 When the halibut was landed, many gathered around to view the trophy, and one person, with a merry twinkle of the eye, remarked: "I sa}-, what do they charge for halibut when thev are taken out of a ' Bank fisherman ' outside the Pool, on their way to Gloucester?" thinking, doubtless, to create a laugh, as such a thing might occur. Just at that moment the fish raised his tail and brought it down upon the pebbly beach with considerable force, when the gentleman remarked, " I've nothing further to say, as I see the fish is able to tell his own ' tale.' " Knowing my long familiarity with the Pool, a St. Louis gentleman upon being asked by a fisherman why he did not go out and catch a halibut, replied — "Well, when I have been at the Pool playing marbles with the natives for forty years or so, I'll go out and get a halibut." Perhaps I may take some credit to myself, as this halibut was the only one taken in the immediate vicinity of the Pool during the summer, and I may add I am the only " visitor " that ever succeeded in capturing a halibut at Biddeford Pool within the memory of the oldest inhabitant; so it was said. Of course, I cannot vouch for this saying — - this is the story as I heard it. Supplementary to the foregoing halibut stor}^ I will relate another experience, and although recently published, yet I reproduce it to show the voracity of this fish : A gentleman from New York was recommended to go to some fishing place upon the coast of Maine for his health, and, wishing to give zest to his sailing, tried fisHing one day. The writer was very willing to do all for his comfort possible, so arranged a trip among the deep-sea peoples. Having never caught a salt water fish, he was jubilant over the prospect of landing a fine cod or haddock, never dreaming of an3'thing larger. The first time his line went down there was a response, and, quite elated, he drew his hook to the surface to find that a hungry cod had seized the tempting bait of another line also, and there the fish was with both hooks in his mouth. The skipper remarked, " You will have to try again, Mr. B., ^g. GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. I don't see that you have captured more than half a fish." The line was soon down again, and in a moment, with a nerv- ous twitch of the hand and a countenance bespeaking pleas- ure, he exclaimed, " Oh, I've got a buster this time!" The skipper glanced toward him, and seeing him tugging away at the line, remarked, " I wouldn't pull out that rock, please, as we shall have difficulty in getting ashore if the water all runs out through that hole!" The response was, "That's no rock, I tell you, I've got a big fish on; my! how he pulls; there is no mistake about that." The skipper by this time was convinced that such was the case, and supposing it to be a halibut cautioned B. about hand- ling him. In a moment, with hands thrown up, he ejaculated, "Oh! he's gone; that's too bad!" Hauling in the line he found his hook gone. While the captain was putting on a hook, the gentleman fished with the captain's line upon the other side of the boat. He in a moment shouted, " Oh ! I've got him again, or another just as big!" The captain, seeing that he had a big fish of some kind, said, "Now be careful; that pulls like a halibut, don't let him ' jig ' on 3^ou, if you do you will lose him." But the gentleman was much excited, not being used to hauling large fish, and he had his gear broken asrain. Misfortune number two for him. All this time the writer was quietly fishing at the for- ward part of the boat, and only letting up long enough to wit- ness the fun, with the disappointing sequel. Said he to himself, " There seem to be some monsters below ; I guess I .will go for them and see what luck I'U have." A good, strong line was brought into requisition, and, baiting the hook with a tempting morsel of mackerel, it was not many minutes before I had a big fish hooked. The first thing to do was to have another line " bent on," as he had already began to run on the bottom. I hauled him three times nearly to the surface and as many times he had it all his own way. He ran out more than half of the second line, when he became wear}^ and was will- ing to come my way. Brought to the surface the cap- THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. si tain gave him a smart rap upon the nose, and, striking the gaff deep into him, the fish soon lay low in the bottom of the boat — a seventy pound halibut — and, strange to say, had the two hooks in him that the gentleman in the stern of the boat had lost only a little while before; one in his mouth and the other in his side. He evidently had been caught by swim- ming around the hook, and, by his hauling so hard, the cap- tain thought Mr. B. had hold of a rock. The second time, the fish was hauled by the mouth, but by "jigging" broke away, leaving the other hook in his jaw. It may be be- lieved that there was some jollity over that funny capture. THE LOBSTER. This " long-tailed Crustacea," well known at the Pool, enters so minutely into the constituents of man's gastronomic taste, that he deserves extended mention — more, indeed, than can be given here. Like some eminent wit, he is welcomed at every table, where he holds most prominent position. The elements in him are so finely mixed that he draws all to him. He is smooth and oily in his manner, yet has a tinge of sharp acridity that gives him a charming piquancy, and is always well dressed for company. He is not, naturally, a handsome beast, but, like Capt. John Smith's alligator, has a very amiable expression when he smiles. His habits, however, are stern, as he moves backward in going forward, and, like a mediaeval warrior, cases himself in armor, which he casts off but once a year. He is a pugnacious fellow, before coming into society, and is always getting into hot water. Though nominally a cold wa- ter man, he steams it, sometimes, and is seen thereafter as red as others make themselves by the same process. His reputa- tion, however, does not suffer much by it, as his friends and admirers like him all the better for his ruddy aspect. He is called, in his native element, " The Shore Sentinel," or " Sea Soldier," and it is supposed that the British soldier adopted the color of his uniform from that of the lobster. The lobster's uniform at first is black, which fades into red upon being 7 S4 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. boiled: the British remains the same to the clo'es. A negro philosopher was deceived by this similarity of color. A party of soldiers insulted him by taunting him about his blackness. He turned upon them with the remark: " You needn 't say nuffin — you was as black as me afore you was b'iled." There is no mistaking the identity of a lobster, especially if you should try to shake hands with him before he loses his sea habits. Mrs. Nickleby had an obscure idea regarding him when she recom- mended to Madeline Bray, who was recovering from fever, that she take a dozen lobsters on the half shell, as a means of recu- peration, although she admitted that oysters might be the thing she had in her mind, and the great English naturalist. Sir Joseph Banks, conceived the idea that fleas and lobsters were of the same family, and boiled a lot to convince a party of savants, to find that his theory was fallacious. As defined by the books, the lobster is "a well known ma- rine crustacean. The common lobster of the United States has the general form of the craw fish, the shell of which is olive, or blackish green, with darker spots and blotches, that, as is well known, become red by boiling. The principal organ of locomotion is the tail, which by a sudden bending under- neath, sends the animal backward with great velocity. One of the most striking peculiarities of the lobster is the ease and fre- quency with which the large claws are separated, either by ac- cident or from injury received in their constant attacks upon each other. These and the other limbs are soon replaced, and it is very common to catch one of these animals with one claw absent or smaller than its fellow. They are said frequently to lose them after a heavy clap of thunder, at which they are al- ways much disturbed. They vary in length as caught for the market, from one to two feet, though specimens are seen con- siderably larger than this, and in weight from two to fifteen pounds. They are common in the market, and are considered a great delicacy." They are caught principally in "traps," the construction of which is as follows: Two ends and a centre piece, made of THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 55 hard wood and half round, say at the base by two feet, joined a substantial piece of hard wood. Then laths are used of the whole length and laid open, the space left being the width of a lath, so the openings are uniform. At either end strong cord made into a net work, concave and ending in a circle of six inches in diameter; then a hoop completes it. These are held in place by being attached, by a line, to the centre of sides of the trap. A cover is made by nailing three short cleats across say three or four laths, with hinges, of pieces of leather, and are commonly introduced just below the centre of the trap on top. A cord with a wooden pin is attached, which serves to hold the bait in place and also to fasten the door of the trap. In the summer months these traps are set near shore and around the rocky bottoms near ledges and islands, and the plan is to sink them, with a strong line attached, and a floating buoy to mark the spot. The winter lobstering is much more haz- ardous, as the traps are arranged upon a long trawl and sunk to the bottom some two or three miles from land, and in ten to twenty fathoms. Commonly a small vessel will carr}^ say six men and as many dories, and while the men are drawing their traps, the vessel is jogged by a man w^io has that part of the programme to perform, and shares equally with the catchers. The lobsters are brought on shore alive and placed in cars, and when sutficient quantities are collected, a smack containing a " well " takes them, or they are boiled and shipped to the nearest market. There is a large business carried on all along the New England shore, of w^hich Biddeford Pool gets her share. Boston is a great market for the lobster, and its commonness renders it dangerous lest the supply give out. The legislature of Maine has secured, by law, the protection of the lobster dur- ing the months of August, September and October, when it is casting its shell and is not wholesome to eat; and Massachusetts has passed a law to regulate the size at which they may be caught and sold (10^ inches long), which is regarded no more than the idle wind, each dealer keeping a measure of his own, suited to all circumstances. j6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Lobsters are to be had all the year around, sick or not, and a law like that of Maine is needed, which would af- ford, perhaps, ample protection if the law were properly re- garded, and all prosecuted who take them or keep them for sale during the months named. The consumption of lobsters for the home market and for canning is enormous. So much is the lobster used for food in Boston, that it has been said by some one, doubtless sardonically, that its people are dis- tinguished by lobster traits of look and action, and that it would not be strange to see those at table get up and crawl around among the dishes; and another declared that Bostonians derive so much phosphorus from eating lobsters that many of them glow in the dark like decayed fish. This is a lurid slander, that no one of any intelligence can believe, the utterer being ac- tuated by a frivolous desire to make light of the Hub. THE BLUE-FISH. It is within but a few years, comparatively, that the blue- lish has appeared, to any great extent, in our waters, and its coming, in any great numbers, is a matter of uncertainty, de- pending mainly upon the abundance of the alewife and herring that flock up the rivers to their spawning places. The Mer- rimac, Piscataqua and Saco rivers are famous resorts for them, in their season, and they afford rare sport for their captors, who find in them a very difficult prey. They are very vora- cious and seize a bait with avidity, but it requires the utmost skill and activity to "land them" in a boat. They double and turn and rush ahead, and, if the hook is not securely settled, they will shake it out of their jaws and escape, requiring a very adroit fisherman to master them. If not rapped on the head, the moment they are captured, it is not quite safe, espe- cially to a novice, to put his finger in the mouth of a blue-fish in extracting the hook, for the long and sharp teeth of the fish may close on the intruding digit, instinctively or maliciously, and inflict serious injury. There have been cases where fin- gers have been bitten to the bone by the struggling victim. In THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 57 pursuit of their food they are very destructive, and not at all particular about " eating clean " as they go along, for where they have made a dash into a school of herring or young mackerel, thousands of wounded and dead fish float upon the water, with parts bitten out of them, presenting evidence of the reckless waste of these ravenous feeders. They are caught in rivers, by anchoring boats in the eddy and throwing a line — furnished with an inverted eelskin bait, a bare hook at the end, the skin drawn up over the line to prevent it from being bitten off — into the channel through which they pass, and, on the open water, by trolling a line, baited in the same manner, over • the stern of sailing vessels, which affords exhilerating sport. During a season when the blue fish were plenty in the Mer- rimac, a small party was formed in Newburyport for a day's fishing down the river. The party was to consist of but five, and all were on the qui vive for the promised enjoyment. A Merrimac wherry was chartered for the day, a craft of the most anomalous character, almost as broad as long, with one mast stepped at the bow, and made to meet a reqirement that she should be proof against upsetting. It was a very roomy boat for fishing, and, although her sailing qualities might not much excel those of a mud- dredger, she was safe and clean, very desirable qualities to the two amateur fishermen of the party. One of these, was a homeopathic physician, whose " path " had never been upon deep water, but who went into the spirit of this treat with a real old school enthusiasm. He was on hand promptly on the morning of the excursion, as if he had been summoned to a consultation, or some case demanding immediate attention, but he had left his book of medicines at home with the other paraphernalia of his profes- sion, and appeared as fresh and bright as a man off duty should appear. It being so pleasurable an affair — only an excursion down the river — that he had made no change in his dress, was immaculate from hat to boots, and wore his gloves to prevent the sun from burning his hands. He was jolly at the prospect. It was a bright day. The river, away down to its mouth. 5« wouldn't a gone by the Sandwich Islands." " Well, it strikes me as rather a rovindabout way to get to the Arctic Ocean." " Oh, does \\.t You'd make a healthy sea captain, you would. I'd like to be on a lay with you^ " Let's get on with the lay we're at. What did you go to the Sandwich Islands for.' " " What for.'' What does any of 'em go for? " " Give it up." " Well, they goes for sperm oil. They gets the rigging set, a-going there, and they provisions up at the Sandwich Islands to help out the salt horse and hard tack." " And is the sperm oil you get in the tropics as good as that in the Arctic? " " Now you've got it. I see you've got the hang of the whole thing. Sperin oil in the Arctic. Oh, Lord! You're a bright 'un. Sperm oil? Well, if that don't — Now I suppose it wouldn't supprise you to see a sperm whale in the Detroit river, oi", ma'be, a walking up Wood'ard avenue? Oh, it would, eh? Well, it 'ud supprise me just as much to see a sperm whale up North — so it would any sensible man. Why, sperm whales is Tropic whales. North we get the bowhead." " The bowhead, eh ? " " Certainly. There's a gi-eat difference in them whales. The spenu's a cuss — you can't depend on hiin. No, sir. His oil's worth a dollar a barrel, and he knows it and puts on style. The bowhead's only worth fifty cents a barrel, and so he's meeker like. You can depend on a bowhead. You can't on a sperm. The bowhead's got certain feeding gi-ounds, and there you find him at certain seasons of the year. In the fall they go south. In the spring they go north. You see, they have certain feeding grounds, and all yovi have to do is to go to their feeding grounds at the right time and there's your bow- head. The bowhead lives on insects, and he — " " On insects? " " Oh, thafs set you off, has it? I said on insects, didn't I? " " Does your bowhead jump out like a lake fish and catch his insect? " " Now, you can't come any of your smart Aleck business on me. If you know more about whales than I do — then good-by-" " No, but I didn't know they lived on insects, and I wanted to find out how they caught 'em, that's all." " The insects are in the water. Look like fine meal — all little white nubs. When the man on the fore crosstrees sees a whale he sings out, " There she blows." The officer on deck cries, " Where away ? " And the man aloft he sings, 'Six points off the lee bow.' " " Svippose it is six and a half or seven?" "/'w tellin' this. So we clears away the boats — larboard boat first — that's the first mate's, then the second mate's and then the third. Some of the steain whalers have seven mates. The Sea Breeze had four. There's six men — the mate, four oarsmen and the boat-steerer — ^in each boat, with two irons " — "The boat-steerer steers the boat, of course?" THE INDUSTRIES OF THE POOL. 107 *' Of course he don't. The mate steers the boat." *' Well, what is the boat-steerer.' " *'The boat-steerer stands in the bow and irons the whale." " Ironing the whale takes all the starch out of it, I suppose." " Right you are. You'd call irons harpoons, I suppose, all landsinen do. We try to sail on the whale if the wind holds and sometimes we run right on it. Then we lets go the halliards and the sail; unsteps the mast and runs it under the thwarts out o' the way ; and he irons the whale abaft the fluke." " What's the fluke? " "Why, the tail, of course; what else.'' Then the mate takes the bomb-gun and fires into the whale. If the bombs strike the lungs or a vital spot it's all day with that fellow. I've seen it take a dozen bombs to kill a whale." "I thought they shot the harpoon now-a-days." " Some does and some don't. With Fletcher's improved gun they can shoot jin iron into a whale ten fathoms off in still weather, but with the boat a-bob- bin' up and down you can't do much with a gun at that distance. Two or three fathoms with the old-fashioned iron and a good boat steerer's better than them new-fangled things." " Ever get wrecked? " " Got upset once and stove in twice. When a whale's struck she makes for an ice field. One got us in a lake among the ice and took to millin'." "What's that?" " Turnin' round, of course. How else could a whale mill? Then she hoists her fluke clear over us, and blow me if she didn't smash the opposite gun'- nel!" " Did you get thrown out? " " Oh, course not! Course we went right along with the starboard gun'nel a-stove in! Lord, yes! Now, what'ud you a done? " " I'd got out and walked." " Oh, I dassay. Well, -ve didn't. We didn't have no regetta arterwards, neither. We was all in the drink in a jiffy, and the second mate's boat picked us up." " What do you do with the whale when it's dead?" " We wreathe a strap through the fluke and wreathe the eighty-fathom line through the strap and tow her to the ship. There's a 300-fathom line in the tub, that line's on the iron, then an eighty-fathom line in the midship thwart. First one lip is hoisted aboard, then the tongue, then the other lip, and put in the blubber room 'tween decks. Then they cut the blanket pieces with cut- ting spades — five inches wide, of sharp steel, with twelve-foot handles. When we gets two or three whales aboard we lays to or anchors and tries out the oil." " How long were you out, and how many whales did vou get on that voyage ? " " We were out eleven months and got seventeen whales. My lay was $220. A hundred-barrel whale's a good one. And say — you put in, that the Sea Breeze was the last ship as saw the Jeannette. No, sir; 'taint no fun whale fishin', vou bet." YACHTING AND BATHING. THE perils of the sea are descanted upon by landsmen, who watch our yachts and smaller craft as they glide over the waves, subject to sudden storms and vicissitudes of the deep, but seldom to experienced boatmen, especially those at the Pool, do serious accidents occur, or anything, indeed, beyond the mere carrying away of some part of the rigging, or meeting with some trifling disaster that may be easily remedied. Almost all the casualties that occur proceed from inexperience, and it should be an object of especial care, with those who let boats, to know that those to whom they entrust their property are competent to take care of it. But a few years since, a sail-boat, containing three young men, was capsized at the mouth of the Piscataqua, by a sudden squall, and one of the three drowned. Two were rescued and the boat was allowed to drift away; when recovered it was found that eight turns of the sheet had been made around the cleat at the stern. The melan- choly fate of the crew of the yacht M3^stery, from New Haven for Nantucket, wrecked in Buzzard's Bay, probably proceeded from the same cause. She was manned by four young men, embarked on a pleasant summer trip, who were never heard of, their fate left to conjecture, the wreck of their vessel being found in the Bay. Such instances as these illustrate the necessity of caution. No boat should be no GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. allowed to go out upon the sea without assurance being given of competency to man her. An excellent life-long Pool pilot thus gravely discourses: "It is lamentable, but nevertheless true, that scores of yachts which cruise along our coasts during the summer season are not properly manned; or, as an old salt looks at it, manned by a crew that really don't know when to take in sail, when to make sail, or what to do in an emergency, when good judgment is needed. This may seem strange to many who are but little acquainted with boats and boat-sailing, but the only strange thing there is about it is, to the man of experience, that there are no more lost than is reported. Accidents will happen to the best of men and managers, and sometimes it even seems that the ignorant steer clear, when those who are fully posted run into danger. But this is not so, and the record will show that nine-tenths of the accidents that happen to the yacht- ing and boating fleets, result from inexperienced manage- ment. No vessel or boat, from the size of the Great East- ern to the smallest craft that floats, should ever start on a voyage, be it ever so long or short, without being in charge of some one who is, in every respect, competent for his position. "But while speaking of the danger that attends the unskillful boatman, attention may be called to the danger that surf-bathers incur when they undertake to brave old Ocean, for however hard the beach, and however well assured bathers may be that there is no danger lurking near, still the sea is an insidious worker, and the fearful undertow, on what are considered the safest beaches, may be doing its treacherous work underneath. Take any beach you please, and you will find it at one time so hard that the iron shoe of a horse will barely indent its surface; at another time it will be found gullied out, with the sand removed, in wide streaks for the entire length, with per- haps here and there little ledges of rock peeping above the YACHT TNG AND B*ATHING. m surface, plainly indicating that the undertow has been there; even though at another tide the smooth sand may be restored and the ledges covered. If that unfortunate partv at Wells Beach, who went to their death, had but known the danger they were to meet, or had listened to the coun- sel of one who advised them, a terrible affliction would have been averted. '"Oh mother!' said a lovely young lady, a few years ago, as she stood amid a group of bathers, 'do let me go in just once more,' for the breakers looked very fascina- ting as they broke upon the shore and she could not resist the temptation. She went in and in less than ten minutes was taken out a corpse. "A young man, full of life, strong physicall}^, and a fine swimmer, plunged into the wave, to encounter the under- tow, that caught him and swept him out beyond any help from the shore. Strong men in a boat barely rescued him from his perilous situation just as he was sinking, exhausted, beneath the sea. " Every summer what multitudes of these cases we see reported — distressing cases of bathers swallowed up by the sea in the presence of loving friends, powerless to aid them. In many places great precautions for safety are taken, by providing life-lines and skillful boatmen to protect the bath- ers; but yet, maugre all precautions, many are drowned through their own recklessness in going into the surf at moments when aid is not at hand." The sea philosopher thus concludes: " I would like to ask if there is any more virtue in surf- bathing than there is in still-water bathing.^ If there is not, then why not keep in smooth water? Should the bather feel that he or she must have a plunge in the foamy brine, then let the subject take some one along, who is well acquainted with the shore and the whirl of the tides, to point out the dangerous places. It seems to me, that any one, or any number, embarking on vessel, yacht, or boat, 112 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. for a voyage along the coast, without having a skillful boatman and pilot on board, or an}^ that attempt surf-bath- ing without first taking advice from those who know its danger, are just as foolhardy as was Capt. Webb, when he attempted to brave the whirlpool of Niagara, knowing that it was almost sure death to make the plunge." H. C. Folkard, of London, the best of authority in nau- tical matters, published a treatise in 1870, upon English and foreign boats and yachts, touching every point relating to building and sailing. He gives some directions regarding the management of sailing-boats in squalls, that may be of practical value: " On a wide expanse of water," he says, " signs of a squall may generally be seen on the surface some few moments before it reaches and strikes the sails of the boat; and at sea a squall may sometimes be seen at a distance of many miles; in which case there is plenty of time for shortening sail before its effects are felt. But in narrow rivers, and when sailing close under the land, squalls often come down upon the boat with all the suddenness imagina- ble. Such are the most dangerous of all squalls, and it is, besides, difficult to suggest a means of avoiding their dan- gerous effects on an open boat; except that double caution should be taken that the main-sheet is always ready to be let go in an instant, whenever you are sailing along the coast; for squalls come sometimes sweeping down the val- leys with great force, and often catch the boats in a calm, as it emerges from the shelter of some high cliff or mound, and many and sad are the accidents that have arisen from such squalls. "When sailing in an open boat, if a heav}" squall is observed approaching, the peak of the mainsail should be lowered, or the sail brailed up. If only a light or little squall, allow it to just strike the sails, then lift the boat up to it, but not so as to lose all way: keep the boat going, or she will not answer to the helm. If a very IHMMM' YACHTING AND BATHING. lij heavy squall, the sprit should be taken out and the fore- sheet slacked. When threatened with a white squall, it is safest to let the fore-sail run down and to drop the peak of the main-sail; also to take in the jib if it be a large one. In an ordinary squall, if the sails be reefed and the boat a safe and powerful one, there is nothing to fear under judicious management. The boat may be conducted through it in safety by sailing her narrow; i. e., so close to the wind that the fore-leeches of the sails just begin to shake; but great caution is necessary, lest the sails be taken aback. In all cases of heavy squalls and strong winds, it is of the highest importance to keep good way on the boat, for if the boat lose way, or is stationary, the squall will tell upon it with double force and treble danger to that to which it would be liable if moving rapidly ahead. If a squall should strike the sails whilst the boat is running free, the helm should be j)ut down\ and this is a very important precaution to take in such cases, for if a mistake be made and the helm -put up, the squall will most likely capsize the boat." The author then treats of the causes of boats capsizing, agreeing with our own sea philosopher from whom we have quoted: " Notwithstanding the numerous and melancholy accidents that occur, year after year, through the mismanagement and upsetting of sailing boats, there are persons who will not take warning therefrom, but persist in rushing head- long into danger which, with ordinary prudence, they might certainly avoid. The casualties that occur are not always occasioned by stress of weather, but are mainly attributable to causes within control. Boats are not so fre- quently capsized on account of large sails, strong winds, and heav}' seas, as the}' are from mismanagement and care- lessness—by far the greater portion of accidents occurring in fine or moderate weather. Among the principal causes of boats capsizing are: inattention to the main and jib 114 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. sheets; wrong adjustment of the sails, particularly the head-sails, or those before the mast; large and dispropor- tionate spars; improper trim of hull, whereby the boat carries a lee-helm instead of a weather-helm; missing stays; sluggishness on coming about; insufficient ballast; the ballast shifting and rolling over to leeward; the jamb- ing of a rope, whereby it is checked in running through the blocks or sheaves; the sail not coming down freely; ill-fitting blocks; reckless pressure of sail; overcrowding the boat with people; intoxication; standing up in the boat; leaning over the gunwale," &c. The author proceeds, inculcating the greatest care regard- ing the coiling of ropes and keeping the halliards free, especially the several sheets on which all the safety of the craft depends. "In moderate weather," he says, "or dur- ing a steady breeze, with a clear sky, and when not likely to be squally, seamen and boatmen are frequently inclined to take what is called a ' slippery hitch ' in the sheet : this is done by twisting the bight of the rope round its own part. A careful sailor, however, will never, under any circumstances, allow the main sheet to be belayed: he either holds or orders the slack to be held in hand." This counsel, from an English view of things, may have room for application here where the same perils exist. At any rate it harmonizes with our exhortation to caution, and it matters not whether this is secured by English or Yan- kee means. ROMANCE OF THE POOL. THERE are many incidents, legends, and traditions told at Biddeford Pool, some of which have found their way into print, and, as Hamlet says, " more remains behind." The following, by Major Pearson, whose name is mentioned in the succeeding paper, tells its own story: A LEGEND OF SACO BAY. Off Wood Island Light, at the entrance to Saco Bay, coast of Maine, is a lone, foam-covered rock, known to sailormen as "Washburn" or "The Wash- erman." It is believed that in old times, while Neptune yet ruled the sea, this rock was the abode of a mermaid. With this rock and its romantic tradition for the subject, the ensuing lines were written to amuse a friend, while sojourning at that Paradise of watering places, Biddeford Pool, Maine. A. W. Pearson. Fair lady, I'll tell you a story in rhyme, A story of love it of course will be ; A tale of what happened in olden tiine, Mid the beautiful scenes of our eastern clime, By the shore of its restless sea. Strange, strange is the story, and yet it is true ; Improbable still as it all may seem; For I dreamed it last night, and while dreaming I knew That since t'was a dream it was sure to be true. For there's nothing so true as a dream. ii6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. 'Twas a dream of the reef at the mouth of the bay, Where the waves as they burst ever whiten in foam: ' Tis the Washerman rock, and our sailor boys say That once, in the long ago time far away,, ' Twas a beautiful mermaiden's home. And sometimes when sailing belated at night, The siren was seen by the sailor boy there. Where the spray dashes high and the breakers are white. Sitting perched on the rock in the moon's misty light, Sweetly singing while combing her hair. Beneath this lone rock was her fairy-built cell. Far down, where the light of the sun never came ; It was garnished with sea-weed, and inlaid with shell. And 'twas lit by a phosphorus flame. Its ceiling was crystal, around on the wall Thickly studded were Rubies and diamonds rare ; But purer than crystal, and brighter than all Of the jewels adorning her glittering hall. Was the mermaiden languishing there. Lonely and sad she reclined in her cave. Encircled by splendor and wealth untold, And mused by the light of the gleaming wave. As it sparkled o'er sands of gold. " Ah ! why, alone in the dreary sea Am I, in my beauty condemned to dwell '? Is there no one on earth my adorer to be ; To rest in my arms while he whispers to me, The tale of his true love to tell.^ " " Ah! if he only were by my side, How closely I'd cling to his fervid breast! How happy I'd be as his ocean bride! And he, in my love how blest! " " I'd spread for hiin softly a mossy bed, And seat myself by my darling there. And sing him to rest, while I pillowed his head In the waves of my golden hair." " I'd tenderlj' watch him, and, as he slept, If fairy-born visions his spirit beguiled, I'd drink up his tears when his eyelashes wept, And kiss his warm lips when in dreams they smiled." ■ 4' \V t 11 ,15 iriii''^''*^'' €: ROMANCE OF THE POOL. ,iy " And when he awakened, my bright eyes should be The mirrors of love, where m}' lover might see As he gazed in their depths that their crystal throne, Like my heart, held his image and it alone." She mused, and her breathing was warm and quick; She sighed, and her throbbing heart beat fast; Her eyes became humid, and heavy and thick, From their silken fringe fell the tears at last. She rose; one parting look she gave At her virgin home, then clasped the wave, Where the crystal door of her palace swung; Deep down in the yielding flood she sprung. With rapid stroke, yet firm and free, Her white arms flashed through the shining sea, And her gleaming track left its light afar. Like the glittering train of a falling star. She glided along o'er the coral groves, Where the nymphs of Neptune sing their loves, She passed where the water Kelpies sleep In their shady caves in the sunless deep, — From her meteor path, as she cleft the tide The crab and the lobster scuttled aside, And the dolphin turned, with astonished eye. To gaze, as the Ocean's Queen swept by. Then upward, upward, away, away, vShe swiftly sprang to the light of day: Another stroke, and her speed was done ; She shook the spray from her streaming hair ; It gleamed like gold in the evening sun, Which never shone on a face .so fair. 'Twas the close of a sultry summer dav: The sea shone bright in the .sunset rav: The sky was pure, and the winds were still, And with softened voice and a nameless thrill The murmuring ocean's deep-toned roar Seemed turned to a gentle hymn of jov. In the ear of the slumbering .sailor bov, As he rocked in his barge by th e sounding sliore. The mermaid came o'er the placid sea. And swam to the slumbering sailor's side. *' My wish is granted at last!'' said she, *' This dreaming mortal my lover shall he, " To live in my ocean home with me. "Oh! come! My darling! behold thy bride! 1.-) ri8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. "Though the maids of the shore may be kind and fair, " My love is more fond than theirs ever can be ; " Oh, hasten ! my beautiful home to share " In the deep of the dark blue sea! " He dreamily turned, as she sweetly sung. And closer still to his ear she crept; His languid arm o'er the barge was hung. And drooped in the wave, while he deeply slept. " Ah come! to my wave-girt home with me! " Come, my dearest! and do not fear. " Long, long and happy our lives shall be, " And I'll hide thee safe in the secret sea, " When the winds of the storm come near." The waves grew rough, and the sky was dark ; The surge foamed white on the misty strand : The youth still slept, in the quivering bark. And the siren had clasped his hand. " Come, love ! with me to my ocean home ! "To my fairy garden, so cool and blest! " Through groves of coral together we'll roam, " And when we are weary, beneath a dome " Of jewelled beauty we'll rest." The sky is darker, and cold the wind ; The barque is tossed on the breaker's crest ; The siren's arms round the youth are twined, And her eager lips to his own are pressed. Next morn, in the light of a stormy dawn, The sea cast a wreck on the lonely shore — The sailor boy's boat, — but its freight was gone ; The dreamer returned no more. X H 2 o o: ui z < o o (X Q K O t, Q Q POOL STRATEGY. A CAPITAL story is told at Biddeford Pool, illustrating a rivalry that formerly existed among the pilots of that vicin- ity, whose custom it was to watch for Saco bound vessels in the offing, and board them at sea. There were quite a number who were acting as pilots, and a spirit of emula- tion actuated them as to which should get first to the ves- sel, and there were pretty exciting contests in their efforts to obtain the job. All were capital sailors, and every bit of their agility and skill was put in requisition to win. One day a brig was seen in the offing, and it signalled for a pilot. She was not far from land, but to reach her it was necessary to round East Point, making a long stretch of miles for the pilot to overcome. Two pilots in one boat started on a run for the prize, and put in all they knew to accomplish the object, tussling with the tide and sweating with their endeavor. After the boat had left the landing, a stout pilot, who had stood calmly whittling a stick, with a queer expression on his face and a twinkle in his eye, showed signs of activity. He gave no indication, however, of intention to follow his rivals, though he watched them eagerly until they were hidden from his sight by the Lob- ster Rocks. Then he became all alive, like a black-fish. Seizing a common light gunning float, that lay at the wharf, he yanked her from the water, and without a word I20 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. to any one, signifying his intention, he threw her upon a wheelbarrow, and started upon a run across the neck to Long Beach, where he launched his boat and was soon on his way to the brig, hidden from his contestants by the intervening land and rocks. He soon gained her deck and took charge of her, when soon, rounding the point, in the distance, came the rival pilots, pulling for dear life. The occupants of the boat rushed up the brig's side and were astonished to find Capt. Bill at the helm, whom they had lately left at the landing, whittling, as meek as Moses, but as crafty as a cat. Between the two disappointed ones remarks were made about Capt. Bill, more emphatic than complimentary, but they soon got over their chagrin and stood the laugh at their expense like heroes. Capt. Bill's " strategy " was long a story at the Pool, and some of the older ones laugh at it even now. EARLY FISHERIES OF CAPE ANN. IN 1623 a fishing vessel from England, having completed her cargo in " Mattachusetts Bay," sailed for Spain leaving fourteen men in the country at Cape Ann, to await her return. Early in the next year the same ship, with a con- sort, came to Cape Ann, and after an unsuccessful fishing season set sail for England, leaving thirty-two men here. The following year three vessels came from England, and an effort was made to establish a colony here under the governorship of Roger Conant, but the attempt was aban- doned. In the course of the year, Mr. Conant, and some of his companions, removed to Salem and founded the col- ony of Massachusetts Bay, The fisheries of Cape Ann, as a considerable and permanent industry, seem to have become fairly established about 1722, when the business was conducted on a somewhat extensive scale at Annis- quam, and also in a lesser degree in the harbor parish. About seventy schooners were owned in Gloucester in 1 74 1, nearly all of which were employed in the Grand Banks fishery. The tonnage employed in the Cape Ann fisheries at the outbreak of the Revolution, could not have been far from 4800, employing about 600 men; yearh' product $100,000. The Revolution put an embargo upon bank fishing- After peace had been declared the business was resumed. 122 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. In 1804 the whole number of vessels, over thirty tons, engaged in the Cape Ann fisheries, was only eight, and for nearly a half century fishing was almost totally aban- doned. The shore fishing reached its maximum in 1832, when it employed a tonnage of 6483, and 799 men. Annual value, 157,784 dollars. From this time the business, except as a winter industry, began to decline, giving place to mack- erel fishing, and other modern branches of the industry. Following are a few statistics in regard to the present fleet and bank fishing: Cape Ann of To-day. — Cape Ann is a prominent head land, dividing the waters of Ipswich Bay on the north from those of Massachusetts Bay on the south. Next to Maine, it is the most bold of the New England coast. In Ipswich Bay and upon the shoal grounds, the cod-fish and other species find favorite feeding places. It is here the Cape Ann fishermen have the best shore fishing during the fall and winter. Ipswich Bay has thus proved to be a good place for cod-fish, the fish remaining until into June before going into deeper water. The catch in late years has been very large, reaching, in the spring of 1879, ^^'" 000,000 pounds of round fish. Extending along the coast of Massachusetts, New Hamp- shire and Maine, we find the cod and other species. Jeffrey's Bank, to the eastward of Biddeford Pool, is resorted to quite frequently. Fishermen who go out only for the day are obliged to keep pretty well circumscribed as to distance and generally have their own shoal marks opposite their homes and places of evening shelter. Two methods of capture only are extensively used by fishermen on our coast; hand-line and trawling. Hand- lines have always been used from the earliest times, and are still used largely on the shoal grounds. When a fisher- man uses the hand-line, after the desired shoal is reached. EARLY FISHERIES OF CAPE ANN. 123 the "killock" is dropped, and then he seats himself upon the middle thwart of his boat, with his face toward the stern, his lines and gaff by his side, and his bucket of bait before him. He uses two lines, each having two hooks (or one on each just as he fancies). The leads var}^ in size from two to four pounds, as the tide may be swift at times and it will require more weight to keep the line down. The depth also has something to do with the size of the lead. The hooks are baited with herring or clams, the lines run down till they reach the bottom, and, when the lead strikes, about six feet of the line is drawn in, which allows the bait to swing just clear of the bottom. The lines are then made fast to a cleat or oar-lock, and occasionally the lines are sawed across the edge of the boat, which keeps the bait moving, as fish are more likely to be induced to bite. On hooking a fish, the fisherman stands and hauls hand- over-hand, until the fish is at the surface of the water, and, if a large one, he strikes it with the gaff and brings it in over the rail of the boat. The best fishing is generally early in the morning. The quantity of fish taken is dependent upon three conditions: the dexterity of the fisherman, abundance of fish, and quan- tity and kind of bait used. With regard to bait, it is often the case that fish change their tastes in this direc- tion, as will be seen from the following fact. While her- ring are considered excellent bait, 3^et w^e find fish vary re- garding it. Two vessels were fishing on " Tanto," thirteen miles from Wood Island, in a south-east direction, one of them hauling pollock, and large ones, too, the other fish- ing with fresh herring and catching nothing but dog-fish. Watching closely all the manoeuvres of the other vessel, and thinking something might be wrong, the skipper got into his dory, rowed to the vessel, and inquired the kind of bait they were using. To his astonishment he found they were using salted clams two years old; and, inquiring whether the captain would sell him a barrel, got this answer: 124 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. " I don 't care about selling a barrel of clams, but I '11 lend you a barrel and when we are in Portland together you can put a barrel aboard my vessel." He returned on board his vessel and almost immediately was just as suc- cessful in hauling pollock as the other, and the next day went into Portland with a good fare of fish. I knew of an instance where four men caught, with hand-lines, and with fresh mackerel, four thousand pounds of nice pollock, and had them all taken care of between sunrise and sun- set, on the very same ground I was speaking of. I am in possession of many facts in regard to large quantities being taken by small vessels, fifteen to twenty tons meas- urement, and by hand-lines. The other method of fishing is called trawling — and by this means it is thought the fish will soon be made scarce — which originated about twenty-five years ago, and has since come into general use. This method is used almost exclusively where the bottom is smooth. When used on a rocky bottom, the trawls become fastened and the fisher- men often lose all their gear. The trawl consists of a long cod-line — two or more are sometimes used to get length — ■ and hooks are attached to short snoods, about six feet apart. The trawl has an anchor, of from eight to sixteen pounds weight, at either end, to hold it in position, while it is buoyed by small lines in order to discover its whereabouts if left over night, or even for a few hours during the day. Generally little kegs with flags are used for buoys. A large vessel carries, say, from eight to twelve men and as many dories; the dories are nested upon deck, and when the desired ground is reached, each man, with his gear, leaves the vessel and proceeds to run his trawl. Of course the fishermen have wind and tide to encounter, and often it is so rough, even with the sun shining, that they meet with serious difficulties while fishing in this way. As before stated, each fisherman uses from one thousand to EARL r FISHERIES OF CAPE ANN. 125 twenty-five hundred hooks. The trawls are allowed to remain down several hours, and then they are hauled up and either coiled in a tub, to keep the whole from getting into a tangled mess, or, they are "underrun," rebaited, and allowed to run down again, perhaps to remain over night; in this case, a second buoy line is attached to a small weight on the end of the trawl, the other line being attached to a larger anchor only. In underrunning the fisherman stands in the bow of the boat, with a bucket of bait, takes off the fish, rebaits the hook and lets the line run down again. This keeps the ground if the fishing is good, and no time is lost, as some part of the trawl is always upon the bottom to tempt the fish with the alluring bait. Great quantities of fish are often taken in a single day. Record of 1878, made by schooner Geo. A. Upton, of Gloucester: 55,906 pounds round fish, two and one- half days, eight dories, nine hundred hooks to a man. Gill nets a're being used for cod-fish but they are often cut to pieces. Though not successful at first, I understand that large catches have since been made, and some think the nets, on the whole, are going to be successful as another means of taking cod and haddock in quantities. The bait is a vexed question for all salt-water fishermen. Much might be written and said about it, and when I state that fishermen will go with their vessels one hundred miles out of their way, simph' to get bait, it will not be thought strange that they get discouraged sometimes. Fish are occasionalh' dainty (I have before spoken of this matter), and sometimes a hungr}' cod or haddock will take any kind of bait and that upon a rusty hook, but often are what we call "pickers," and require the sharpest of hooks and the most tempting bait. The prices often rule very high for such bait as Sperling, mackerel and squid. Fish- ermen like to know what the fish are feeding upon and secure that if possible. Salt clams and frozen herring are used largely in the winter. Fresh clams and lobsters are 16 12b GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. used b}' the inshore fishermen in summer. Fishermen who go out daily like always to have their bait fresh. The bank fishermen must lay in a supply, in ice, sufficient for a week or fortnight. The fish find a ready market in Portland, Gloucester and Boston. The curing of fish has its peculiarities, and a few words upon this branch of busi- ness may not be out of place. Shore fish are brought in by the fishermen and sold to buyers, who salt them in butts that are tight and made for the purpose. During the hot weather in summer it is very difficult to dry the fish for market and they have to be kept in salt, covered with pickle until cool weather, when they are taken out and dried for market. The bank fishermen salt their fish, in bulk, in the holds of the vessel, or what is called "kench salting." A sufficient quantity of salt is used to keep them in good condition, and, as a voyage to the Banks requires some months, the cool days will have come before the fishermen return. When they do return, their fish are ready to be taken out of the vessel and put upon the flakes to dry. At Newfoundland and Labrador, the weather being cooler through the summer months, fish can be cured at all times, and it is from these places we get many of our finest dried fish. FISH, FISHING STATIONS, & C. TWO occupations feed the world, the plowman and the fisherman. Timid men plow, brave men fish. It is esti- mated that the latter, in all the world, gather from the sea, annually, one hundred and forty millions of dollars value, in food. Water harvests require no planting or seed time, for the sea is generous, " restoring, in one annual birth, the vast decay," and no man lifts a hand. Fishing is an honorable calling. The apostles, and great folks of the world, not apostles, engaged in fishing for food. A rich merchant in London, named Tobias, a long while ago, got up a plan to make England the wealthiest nation on the globe, by embarking, on a large scale, in sea fishing. In the old Catholic centuries of Britain, 13th to the i6th, fish food predominated over meat. The first market in London, called the Stock Market, contained fifty-four stalls, thirty-six for fish and eighteen for meat. Indeed, through this period, the wealthy people were fish dealers. In the fifteenth centurv, the Venetian ambassador to Lon- don wrote home to his master hi^ surprise at the wealth of the fish-mongers. These men organized their guild in the twelfth century, and from that date the city of London was permitted to elect its own mayor. Early in the thir- teenth century, this ancient company of fish-mongers had sixty-six of its members. Lord Mavors, of London, and 128 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. among them, the renowned Sir William Walworth, who slew Wat Tyler, a leader of rebels, in the city of London, 1 38 1, in the time of young Richard II, Fish was the prin- cipal food. An ox averaged three hundred weight, sheep twenty-eight pounds, killed, but in one hundred years after England became Protestant, meat became general at all meals, and improvements carried the ox to seven hundred pounds, and sheep to ninety-four pounds. When King Henry VIII. organized the English navy, he manned his vessels with fishermen, and their wives took their place at the net and line on the wide seas. On this continent is found the best fishing grounds of the globe — from Nain, on Labrador, bordering the Hudson Bay, to Alaska, on the Northern Pacific, — and these include the Grand and other adjacent banks. At present, fifty-five millions of peo- ple in the United States, from these sources, draw their fish food. When our population doubles a corresponding demand will be made for fish, and the commerce in that commodity, to supply the increased population, must neces- sarily pass and repass, between Cape Ann and Cape Cod, as the grounds for the fish of commerce lie in that direc- tion, in the cold waters of the continent north, and no shift or drift of a central power in this country, that may carry with it commerce, manufactures and population to the interior of the continent, can disturb these great fishing grounds; a source of inexhaustible wealth for all ages to come. A prolific fish commerce will forever pass out and in, between the capes, and Gloucester, Portland and Prov- incetown, will be populous cities. Gloucester. — The foregoing, from a distinguished con- tributor to these pages, having included Gloucester in his prophecy, an article relating to the place, embracing old and new facts, may be interesting. From the voyage of Sebastian Cabot, to our eastern coast, in 1497, until that of Bart. Gosnold, in 1601, nothing is known regarding the discovery of New England. No attempts, indeed, were F/SH, FISHING STATIONS, ETC. i2g made until Gosnold, that year, passed by what is now Cape Ann to the discovery of Cape Cod. It was left to the famous John Smith — honored afterwards w^ith the empty title of "Admiral of New England," though he was denied, by unfavorable circumstances, more than one visit — ^to locate Gloucester in 1614, name Cape Ann (as now known), " Tragabigzanda," in honor of a Turkish lady, who saved his life, (called subsequently, by Prince Charles, "Ann," in honor of his mother. Queen Ann), attempt fishing settlements in Ipswich Bay, and do many other things for which his memory should to-day be honored. The first attempted settlement was from 1623 to 1625, and from the latter date, probably, Gloucester may reckon its beginning. It was of very slow growth for many years, alternating between agriculture and fishing, the settlement of Scituate, on the bay opposite, being a formidable rival on the water, and, though the facilities of harborage and convenience to sea made it a natural fishing station, they were not availed of to profitable extent, though the gen- eral court, at several times, gave its aid and support to the fishing enterprise. The territory contained much fertile land, and agriculture offered superior inducements. Proba- bly the same perils attended the occupation as at the pres- ent day, and it was not until a comparatively late period that it assumed proportions which have kept on increasing until it is the governing business at the present time. To show the intimacy of the sea cultivation with that of the land, it used to be said, that in planting corn there were two kernels of corn and a herring in a hill. Glou- cester is the commanding fishing station in our country. Eastman, in his "Coast Guide," calls it the second in the world. Wm. O. Haskell, Esq., now of Mason, N. H., a native of Gloucester, has furnished in the following paragraphs, a gossippy contribution of interesting items. Local Items: — What is now Cape Ann is bounded by /j-o GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Ipswich Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, Massachusetts Bay and the towns of Manchester and Essex. The principal settlement is Gloucester (or "Cape Ann Harbor" as it was called in early days), situated on the south side of the town. The whole coast of the peninsula is rock-bound (excepting Coffin's Beach at Annisquam, on the northerly side of the cape, that being several miles sandy), abounding in coves, inlets, seams and cracks — Rafe's crack (named for a man named Ralph), a remarkable fissure in the ledge between Nor- man's Woe and Kettle Cove, upwards of two hundred feet in extent, at right angles with the shore, varying in width from three to ten feet. The depth from the top of the rock, or hill, in shore to low water, is sixty-six feet, a remarkable ledge of large size, compact and of striking boldness. The waves rush into this chasm, and, as they dash back from the upper end, send out most frightful sounds. There are several rocking stones hereabouts: one near Bass Rocks, at the end of a high ledge jutting out into the sea. Its weight is computed at one thousand tons, and it has a rocking motion of one inch, which can be effected by one hand at low tide. Rev. Cotton Mather called the attention of the public to this natural curiosity in his usual exaggerated style. At another place on the shore, between low and high water marks, stands a rock upon a rock, twenty feet .long and ten feet wide, which moves many inches as the heavy waves strike its, flat sides. In a pas- ture, at the north side of the cape, is a boulder, weighing seventy-five to eighty tons, resting upon a level rock, which may be set in motion by one person, so as to produce fif- teen vibrations. The highest elevation in town is a hill in West Parish (or "The Precinct"), called Thompson's Mountain, two hundred and fifty feet above sea level, affording a very extensive view in every direction. On this summit formerly stood the "King of Rocking Stones," a small mountain of FISH, FISHING STATIONS, ETC. ijr itself — a monster and a marvel. The U. S. Signal corps, fearing it miglit be an obstruction to their view, had it demolished several years ago. "Governor's Hill" is a noted eminence in town, where the General Court, durinc- the Revolutionary struggle, resolved, April i6th, 1776, that a beacon should be erected, '" the selectmen and two commissioned officers to have charge, and, when the enemy's fleet was discovered, to fire the alarm guns and set the bells a ringing." " Pigeon Hill," on the northerly part of the cape, is the first land that salutes the eve of the mariner as he approaches the coast from the east. Here are, likewise, the "Poles" or Poules, and "Farm Ledge," large masses commanding the attention of every beholder. The rocks of Cape Ann are granite, of a beau- tiful dark color and easily wrought. Large quantities are quarried, dressed, and sent off to southern and western cities. The botony of Cape Ann boasts of a rare plant called the Magnolia glanca, growing naturally in a swamp at the westerly part of the town. It grows about ten feet high and bears a beautiful fragrant flower through the whole summer season. There are but two ponds of magnitude in Gloucester. " Cape Pond " is the largest, which is near the easterly end of the cape, a charming sheet of water, covering eio-hty acres, surrounded by high rocky hills and is a favorite resort for parties, celebrations, pic-nics, &c., from surround- ing towns and cities, and even as far as Boston. Another pond, of smaller size, is on the eastern point, and covers most of the width of the land on the point. A very nar- row ridge, composed of sand and pebbles, separates it from the ocean. At times of unusual high winds, the spray is driven over the barrier and mingled with the water of the pond. The islands near the cape and its harbors are few and small. Thatcher's Island, on which are situated two lio-ht 132 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. houses and a dwelling house, contains eighty-five acres of good soil. "Milk Island," south of Thatcher's, is but little above the sea. " Kettle Island," owned by John Kettle in 1634, "Ten Pound Island," on which is a light, and "Five Pound Island," are inside the harbor. On the westerly side of the harbor, is Norman's Woe, noted for the loss of the ship Hesperus, the subject of Longfellow's poem. It is a large rock, a few rods from the shore, and connected with it by a reef, which the sea leaves bare at low water. Rev. John Wyeth, minister of the third parish, was disliked by a portion of his society as lacking in sanctified dignity, and means were tried to get rid of him : such as firing musket balls into his house, and molesting him in various ways. It is related that on one occasion his horse could not be found by him in the pasture, where he had been put with several others, and some of his friends went in search of the missing animal, to saddle him for church attendance. After a long while he was found with a coat of whitewash all over his black hide. This settled his set- tlement. Persons bearing the name of Haskell seem to have had a monopoly of Deaconship, in the several churches. Joseph Haskell and Benjamin Haskell were deacons in the first parish, and when the second, or new church was formed, they became members, and were immediately elected to the same office in that. At their decease their places were filled by other members of the same family, which kept this prominence in the church to the end of its existence. The first privilege to build a pew, was sold for twenty shillings, to Benjamin Haskell, Jr., Mark Haskell and Wil- liam Haskell, 3rd, who were to have the two back seats, going in at the west door, " to build a pew for them and their wives, and to be seated nowhere else." They had a committee to " seat " the people in the meeting house and sometimes, by vote of the parish, designated where persons should sit. Instance: 1742, Second parish votes that Capt. F/SH, FISHING STATIONS, ETC. 133 William Haskell should sit in the fore seat where Capt. Eveleth sits, and that Joseph Haskell should sit in the side fore seat, that Mr. Joseph Hibbard's wife move out of the lonfT fore seat into the short fore seat. Gloucester was famous for smuggling exploits in colonial days, as officers of revenue would not be tolerated among the inhabitants. A schooner came in from a foreign port during the night; the hatches were immediately opened and discharge of cargo commenced, and a large portion dis- charged and stored before day-break A " tide waiter " was expected from Salem in the morning. On the cut was a watch-house where a stout Irishman was employed, to stop all strangers entering town and subjecting them to fumiga- tion on account of small-pox being prevalent. When his majesty's officer of the customs arrived, he was ushered into the watch-house, kept till after dark, and purified from all infectious diseases. The schooner was unloaded and hatches secured when the officer found her. For Gloucester is claimed the discovery that clams were good for bait, Zebulon Haskell, about 1734, being the dis- coverer. He left his son on shore, with a rising tide, to dig for clams, while he went gunning for ducks. The water surrounded the boy and he stood on his pile of clams, for protection, of course crushing them. While thus situated he saw small fish come and eagerly eat the clams, and, when rescued by his father, told him the fact. The old man took the hint, stored his cellar with clams and crushed them for bait, until his bo}^ got a jackknife and opened them, making a business of selling bait to the fish- ermen. At Chebacco, once a part of Gloucester (now Essex), the first " pinkey " or pink-stern schooner, was built, a small vessel now almost entirely unknown, but popular in old times as a sea-boat. One of these could weather any storm and ride the waves like a corked bottle. Sandy Bay (now Rockport), is named from some local n /j^ GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. association, as there is no sand there to give it its title. The probability is, that it is a corruption, or derivative, from John Smith's Tragabigzanda, reduced first to ' Bazanda, and from this, in time, becoming Sandy Bay. Many accept this as the probable fact. Among the first Gloucester settlers, named to-day in his- tory and tradition, was Capt. Andrew Robinson, grandson of Rev. Leyden John, of pilgrim memory, who was a remarkable man and a great Indian fighter and strategist. He was rewarded by the General Court, in 1730, by a gift of 300 acres of land in Worcester county. Among the generations of old time Gloucester people, were Azarikam Blindman, Ebenezer Goslin, Samuel Absar- soak, Robert Scamp, Harlakendere Symonds, and Daubin Tarr. There was a witch in Gloucester, old time, who, for an insult from two soldiers going with Pepperell to Louisburg, threatened them with vengeance. At the siege a crow flew ominously over their heads, which they shot at but could not hit with a leaden bullet. At last one of them loaded his gun with a silver sleeve button, and fired, when the bird disappeared. Upon returning home they found the witch was dead from a gun shot, and the identical button was found in the wound ! Gloucester's chronology is rich with events, historical and traditional, of which but few of Mr. Haskell's gleaning has been taken for want of room. The following chapter by a Gloucester editor, gives a fine sketch of " The Gloucester of To-day." THE GLOUCESTER OF TO-DAY IF some of the ancient fishermen, who followed fishing from this port a century agone, could by some subtle met- amorphosis have the power to return to earth, and wander about the old spots familiar to their youthful days, what a marked change would they observe in the place itself, and in everything pertaining to the fishing business. Let us imagine one of these old time, weather-beaten "toilers of the sea," suddenly awakening and finding him- self here in our young city by the sea. The harbor, where he spent so many hours of his earthly pilgrimage, sailing in and out, with his good luck and his bad luck, in sum- mer's heat and winter's cold, would, undoubtedly, first attract his attention. We can imagine his great surprise as he wanders around the wharves. All is change. But lit- tle remains to-day to remind him of his day and genera- tion. In place of the few insignificant landing places, which memory holds dear, he finds the entire harbor front, the old Fort, and all, lined with well built wharves, covered with spacious warehouses. The old moorings with their " stumps " used for fastening boats to, have been built over and disappeared. Instead of the small craft emploved in his day, his eyes shine with delight as they take in the gracefully modeled, able looking yacht-like vessels of the present fishing fleet, as they come sailing up the harbor. /j6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. The marine railways would astonish them; the steamers of the Gloucester Steamboat Co., with their loads of fish en route for Boston, from whence it is distributed all over the country, or gliding in with their freight of supplies for the vessels. The tow-boats steaming along would fill the old fisherman with wonderment. The salt ships, laying at anchor, or discharging their cargoes, would also give him an opportunity for thought. Surprise would hold him cap- tive, and, as he walked around in quest of something which would prove familiar, he would become more and more dazed. He reaches one of the Halibut Company's Wharves, and gazes with wonder at the extreme celerity with which a fresh halibut trip is landed, iced, packed and shipped; he visits the canning establishment, the oil factories, the box factory, the net and twine manufactories, wuth their cunning mechanism and labor saving machines, the bone- less fish establishments, where fish are stripped of their skins, divested of their bones, and placed in neat packages, and shipped with marvelous speed. Everything is changed except the fish themselves. He handles the cod and rec- ognizes an old friend. There is no change there. He is the same old fish which he pulled up from many fathoms down, when he, too, was a factor of this fishing sport, and lived his life, and passed on to that country where all the living will follow. He asks questions, and then he realizes that there is a great change in the catching of the fish, the handling, and all the modus operandi of the business. It has been revolutionized, and the bustle and activity which meets him on every hand, makes him feel uncomfortable and out of his reckoning, and the old man, tired with his tramp, disappointed, as he surely is, in not meeting with any of the old familiar faces which were wont to greet him, begins to feel lonesome, and is not sorry when his time is up, and he takes his departure from scenes which have only served to remind him that he belongs to another age entirely. THE GLOUCESTER OF TO-DAT. rjy A few statistics will not be amiss, to give some idea of the change of tonnage and catch, of the day when the old man was in his prime, and of to-day. At the outbreak of the Revolutionary war, the tonnage of Gloucester was esti- mated at 4,800 tons, represented by 150 schooners and boats, employing some 600 men. The yearly product may be estimated at 48,000 quintals of fish, of a value of $100,000. To-day Cape Ann has the finest fishing fleet of any port in the world, and the largest in the United States. There are 501 schooners and boats, aggregating 30,827.02 tons. There are 48 fitting out establishments. Employment is given to nearly 7,000 men, including those on shore who are engaged in handling the fish. During the year 1883 there was landed, on an average, 130 tons of fish per day, Sundays included, which formed a fine food product, valued in round numbers at nearly $5,000,000. This will give some conception of the importance of this industry to the country at large, and the great need of protecting it from such foreign competition as seeks its own aggrandizement. FISH WEIRS. MENTION is made, in several places along the pages of this book, of Fish Weirs, by means of which much of the fish that supplies our markets is taken, without which, it is to be feared, we should often have an inadequate amount. Though long employed for taking fish, the importance of fish weirs has not, until recently, been fully recognized. The immense demand attendant on the growth of our country, in point of numbers and appetites, has called for increased efforts to meet it (or fish it), and a monstrous " catch " is the result. Through its agency we have a con- stant and abundant supply of many varieties of the fish known to our waters, and at rates so low that none need be debarred from their enjo3'ment. The trawl divides, with the weir, the credit of this, but that is onl}^ employed in deep-sea fishing, and they work separately for the general good, of which the poor, especially, reap the benefit. The family of no man, who has five cents in his pocket, need go without a good fish dinner. However great the draft made upon the briny capital, and notwithstanding the fear lest it be exhausted by the demand upon it, there is no evidence of its diminution. The increased demand does not seem to affect it any, and opposition, at first active against these extra appliances, has measurably died out. That the early Indians used weirs, of a simple form, as FISH WEIRS. ^39 well as the spear and hook, for the capture of their fish, is proved by relics of their fish-craft, occasionally found on streams by which they camped to procure their winter sup- phes; probably unlike the weirs of to-day, but sufficient for their simple need. At the outlet of Lake Winnipiseo- gee, where the water leaves for the Merrimac, the remain- ders of such weirs have existed until within a few years, that have given the name, " The Weirs" to a station on the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad. It is true, authorities differ regarding their aboriginal claim, but the traces of these old weirs bore evidence of sufficient anti- quity to warrant the assumption. The construction of weirs as now generally made, which last localil}^ endeavors to improve, is as follows: It consists of what is called a pocket and two leaders, the leaders conducting into the pocket. They are made of coarse twine net work, and the meshes are about one and one-half-inches, or small enough to pre;vent the meshing of diminutive fish. One of the leaders runs out from the land, in a straight line, a distance of one hundred yards or more. The network is attached to long poles, which are set deep in the sand and project above the surface of the water high enough to be above the tides. The other leader is laid out in nearly the form of a circle, with a circumference of two or three hundred yards, there being an opening on the shore side, into which the first named leader enters. Inside of the circular leader is the pocket, or "trap," in which the fish are caught. The entrance of this pocket is wide enough to admit a small boat. The pocket is attached to poles and set in the sand, similar to the leaders. Every pole has attached to it a line and anchor to keep it permanently fixed. Fish, on striking these leaders from any point, follow them along, attempt- ing to get by. If they strike the straight leader, and fol- low it to the shore, they turn and follow it back, which takes them into the other leader. Here thev soon strike I40 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. the network of the pocket, which they follow, and find themselves inside, completely entrapped, with not a chance for escape. There being a bottom to the pocket, there is no way for the fish to get out, except by that through which it got in. It requires four or live men, with two boats, to tend a weir, one boat a dory, the other a larger and stronger one to carry away the fish. The weir is visited every morning, and the pocket is entered at the same opening employed by the fish. When inside, the men haul up a door made of network, which closes the entrance. They then take hold of the pocket at one side and gather it up until they get the fish into as small a compass as possible, when they pass them into the boats with dip-nets. By a letter and diagram that I have received from a gentleman at Cape Cod, ^ — written at the request of E. H. Brazier, Esq., of Chelsea, a sojourner during the summer at Orleans, — I am enabled to present the Cape Cod method, between which and that of places to the eastward there is little difference. The '^ pockets " at the Cape are called " pounds." The " gathering " is done by attaching the net to the fear of wagons going in different directions which bring the fish to the centre. In plentiful seasons, Mr. Brazier informs the writer, the amount of blue fish and mackerel caught is enormous. On one occasion a large number of carts were driven down into the enclosure, and loaded with large fresh blue-fish pitched on with hay forks. This is doing grand business by the " pound." The f olio win rr is the substance of the letter alluded to which was accompanied by a diagram of the pound, which is here introduced: " From the shore to the outer end of the Aveir is one mile. The little pound is about seventv-five feet across. The big pound about two hundred feet. It requires for the whole weir two thousand poles ; for the little pound thirty long and two hundred short poles, for the big pound, two hundred long and three hundred and fifty short. It requires three hundred and fifty short poles for the wingers, and nine hundred for the leader. The short poles are set LITTLE •, • POUND ll ••• •• •• WINGER ••• LARGE POUND " • • • • • • • • 111 O 0. f^ • , • • • • • .' • WINGER *. • •« ••• •- • • • • • . •• u o X i FALL FISHING. an catchers were seen here and there, ploughing along through the sea under close-reefed sails, having no port in view, but scudding their way along like' sea-gulls. The two small boats that we towed out to the Peak started in before the blow came on, and had nearly reached a place of safety, when they were struck by the squall. Amber proceeded as well as he could, with his "tender sail," until he was overhauled by the Agnes and towed in. Capt. Bruell anchored, as he could make no headway, his oars being blown out of the rowlocks and moving impossible. Freeman Rich, who was on the fishing-grounds, endeav- ored to reach the land and was obliged to anchor, and the life-boat crew, from the Life-Saving station, were sent off to his assistance. It was a "galy" day for the spirits of the deep, but as no calamity attended the demonstra- tion, the mortals who participated in it may talk about it as a chapter from the book of their experiences. SWORDFISH. Swordfish are taken without interference from "dogs," and the summer of 1884 yielded a prolific harvest to the fishermen of the Pool, the Eva A. Race, Capt. Warren Rich, and the Etta B. Rich taking nearly a hundred each. These two made swordfish a specialty. Other vessels en- gaged, in part, were proportionally successful. These con- sisted of the W. H. Clement, Capt. Jacob Verrill, Emma Pearl, and the iVgnes. Portland has been the market. Swordfish were very plenty all along the shore from Block Island to Mount Desert, and large numbers have been captured off Seguin and Monhegan. For a de- scription of the modes of taking swordfish, the reader is referred to details in other pages of this volume. There is no end to interesting stories of swordfish capture, and the listener sits entranced to hear the hardv fisherman reel off his yarn of adventures that make him an object of admiration. They are stories of daring and peril, and the 212 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. garrulous old "salt" loves to tell them, even though they wax ancient from recital, but the experiences he describes are far more interesting than amusing, and the listener would hardly like to fill his position to win his fame. It may be romantic and brave and picturesque to balance for hours on the end of a bowsprit, in a pulpit, with pole and dart in hand waiting for game, but the fisherman fails to see it, his thought bent on some occupation on shore. He would willingly change places with his listener, even if he were not worth more than a few up-town blocks and a cotton mill; and he who swings at the mast-head, on the look-out, takes a wider view than the limited deck below, and longs for a " cot beside the hill " where he can plough the land instead of the sea. Of course the same men are not confined to the same constrained position. Where a crew consists of three or four they change places, but their lot is a hard one, any way, and they would gladly resign their most exalted place for some employment a little nearer the level of the deck. There is an interesting story told, among the incidents of last summer, relating to the taking of a swordfish. As the W. H. Clement neared a swordfish catcher, it was observed that the vessel's dory was being pulled on deck. When the Clement was within hail, the skipper of the strange vessel cried: "If you'll secure that barrel and swordfish warp you may have the fish." Capt. Jacob went for the fish, and secured it with- out much difficulty. When the barrel and warp were landed on the vessel — from Portland as it proved — ■ the fact was revealed that two men in a dory were in the act of capturing the fish, when suddenly the monster came to the surface and commenced swimming around the boat, during which operation he had driven his sword through the bow streak of the dory, causing a formidable rent, and the men were obliged to abandon the fish, still attached to their barrel, and attend to their boat, which was leaking badly. -They stuffed their oil jackets into the leak, and FALL FISHING. ^'3 then, by sitting in the stern, which brought the bow out of water, they were enabled to get back to the vessel. The Jennie B.'s dory was fastened to a large swordiish for three hours, with two men fighting for his capture, be- fore he could with safety be brought to the surface. OLD TIME FISHERMEN. THE Swampscott correspondent of the Lynn Union, in speaking of the fishermen of fifty years ago, goes over to Marblehead, to us the " Cunny Lane" and "Barnegat boys," representatives of " Mugford," who captured the British powder ship and ran her through the blockade into Boston harbor in 1777, descendants of Gerry, of Revolu- tionary fame, and Colonel Glover, who commanded a regi- ment of Marblehead fishermen, the boys who paddled George Washington across the Delaware and landed him safely on the plains of New Jersey — Descendants of the men who manned the frigate " Constitution " or who were starved in the dungeon of the prison ship "Jersey," and later on who participated as privateer men in the war of 1812-14. Capt. Thos. Widger, the old hero of many a close en- counter on the ocean's highway, was a privateersman, and later well known in Swampscott as a sturdy fisherman, who, tired of the Grand Banks and merchant service, set- tled down among our townsmen and lived to a good old age. Dying, he left a good name behind him, and a large generation who appear to be endowed with much of the old gentleman's patriotism and devotion to country. Another of the old-timers, is Captain John P. Harris, who came from Marblehead to Swampscott fifty 3'ears ago. OLD TIME FISHERMEN. atj and is still here, hale and hearty at the good old age of 82 years. May he still continue to stop with us. " Cap'n Jack," as he is cleverly called by his intimate friends, is a gentleman who has spent nearly his whole life on the ocean, and principally as a fisherman. Fifty-two years ago he was skipper of the "Paul Jones," a Marblehead fishing vessel of fifty-eight tons burden. His last trip to the Grand Banks, of Newfoundland, in this craft, was made in 1832, and it was a voyage thrilling with narratives of the sea. Leaving Marblehead in August, with a crew of seven men, the second day out the vessel sprung a leak, and put into Portland for repairs, the Banks being reached without further disaster. The season's catch began, and the result was 12,400 codfish — a pretty good haul for the time engaged (about three months). Nov. 28th, Cap- tain Harris, having wet his salt, stood to the west 'ard homeward bound. December 5th, he struck a big gale, which threw the vessel on her beam ends, and broke in live stanchions, lost his boat, and split the main-boom in three pieces, scudding for seventy-two hours in a terrible sea. The vessel could not possibly beat to wind'ard, and after a run of twenty-nine days he made St. Thomas, West Indies, " considerably broke up and demoralized," says the captain. He lay there twenty days for repairs, and then set sail again for home, making the run in nine- teen days, when he dropped his anchor in the Vineyard Sound, and finally reached the home port, Marblehead, on the 2 2d day of February, having been gone six months, and passed through more hardships and dangers than he ever before or since experienced on the wild old ocean. The " Cap'n " succeeded in bringing home his trip of cod, but they were well pickled. With few exceptions, his friends all supposed the vessel and crew at the bottom of the sea, but his good wife never gave him up, but watched and waited for his safe return. Instead of bringing the customary smoked halibut, and the odoriferous hagdon, he 2ib GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. presented his wife with a half barrel of sugar, and a keg of tamarinds. Captain Harris's memory is fresh and good, and to hear him relate his past experiences is really a treat to any one who has reverence for the grand old days in which our fathers lived in their prime. This is a good story of the Lynn Union, but it pales before the one about old Capt. Brace, of Salem, one of Pingree's captains, who sailed between Salem and Calcutta in the Rosa Dexter for many years, and at last retired with a grand reputation for seamanship, and yet he never knew the first thing about navigation. He made his voy- ages by instinct and the stars, and his owners, not know- ing his deficiency, never questioned him about it. That he made quick voyages was enough for them, and he won the title of " The Ninety Day Man." On one voyage, near the last of his career, he brought home a service of plate, that the captains and underwriters of Calcutta had given him for saving their shipping. The facts were that, on a bright calm day, in Calcutta river, Capt. Brace was seen busily housing his upper spars, and everything was in a bustle on board, taking care of the rigging and securing the ship. Watchful captains asked why he was doing it, and he told them there was going to be a typhoon. He was an old fellow and others heeded his example, lowering their masts likewise. Some, however, laughed at the old man and his prediction, but in an hour or two there came on a most tremendous gale, driving ashore those who had sneered at him, while those who had imitated him were all right. He paraded his present with triumph, but never told how he knew the typhoon was coming. One day, after he had retired from the sea, he was sitting in the sun upon his veranda that overlooked Boston Bay, when he suddenly yelled out " A typhoon 's coming! A typhoon 's coming!" and it was found that he had been suddenly seized with gout, and, through his pain, had betra^^ed the secret he had kept so long. A DAY AT YORK BEACH. THE following rhymed record of a day at York Beach may not be inappropriate here, as York is in near neigh- borhood with the Pool, and the proceedings of one may serve as an alternate for the other: POETRY OF THE SHORE. The morn is calm, the billows' rhythmic roar, Measured to time that time can never beat, Rings in grand cadence o'er the sounding shore, And foaming surges, with invading feet, Press on the silver sands that, evermore, Resist attack with a persistence meet. Back the assailants constantly compelling. Whose ranks are e'er with reinforcements swelling. Sublime a scene like this ! as here I stand ; Confronting nature in domestic battle. Although the sea but simply chafes the land. And its deep voice is but as infants' prattle ; But when the wintry waves in anger grand Assail the shores to make the windows rattle. Then is the time — though very few that do it — To come a thousand miles, or less, to view it. And what a view is this, at morning hour ! The deep sea stretching to infinitude. Heaving in vast sublimity and power, But in the gentle air, with breath subdued, GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. And half awakened, as its eyelids lower, Smiles placidly, in beatific mood, Meeting the sun, as o'er the distant Nubble It comes, a fierce, huge, incandescent bubble. A beauteous change! The waves grow sparkling bright Beneath the presence of the jocund sun, Dancing like fairies 'neath the new born light, While Sol looks down, benignant, on the fun! And the paternal ocean smiles bedight, RoUs on, as bid to do by every one. From Byron down, and morning's fretful surges Become transmuted into playful splurges. Here at York Beach may the sojourner find More happiness than anywhere aWaits Those who to see old Neptune are inclined, Dressed in his bathing suit, who circulates His billows lavishly to please each mind. If bold or timid, and the heart elates To own a serfdom (however independent). To the old York sovereign of the sea, resplendent. See the horizon into distance dips. The heavens there hanging upon earth's far marge, And the faint outlines of receding ships, (Or schooners) small, in seeming, as a barge; While the night's mist before the morning slips, Like to some ghost, permit/tedly at large — For instance that old one of HamlcPs father. Who came it o'er his "cranky " offspring rather. Bfione Island, but a candle-stick by daj', Stands pointing upward with persistent will. Like those who strive to point the heavenly way. But stick, tenacious, to earth's doings still; Though when the night succeeds, the timely ray Doth with glad confidence the sailor fill. Sending him on with gratified emotion. Lord of himself and master of the ocean. There tiny boats row out upon the brine, Or else are rowed with cultured muscle strong, To gather something in the fishing line. That to this province fitly doth belong. Where cunners, credulous 'neath ocean shine. And round the bait in nibbling numbers throng. Until they find, as one of old has spoken, A pitcher gone too oft may come back broken. A DAT A7' rORK BEACH. 2ig Oh! What delight to dawdle o'er the tide, With line suspent, addressed to those below, And feel the teeth decidedly applied Of those there waiting, curious to know Just what we'd furnish them, so much denied Of luxuries that we have to bestow, Until they find, the epicurean sinners. That they 're without their jackets, for our dinners. It may be cruel in a human sense, But just like other things of man's device, There 's fun in it of magnitude iinmense. And though it may be naughty, it is nice; And Mr. Bergh may talk from now till hence. Mourning the fish's agonized demise — He 'd quite forget the cruelty that hooks 'em — To taste the way in which Louisa cooks 'em. Talk of your brook trout from your mountain stream! They're well enough to those who can't get these; Here is the height of epicurean dream, The culmination of the art to please; The acme of all hope, as all must deem Whose appetite is qualified to tease, And the impossibility to match 'em Is in accordance with the fun to catch 'em. The tempting surf to bathing now invites. And naiads seek the beach in queer array. To revel in the breakers' fierce delights, And in abandon gives themselves away; ' Tis not the most delectable of sights. To see such objects in the light of day, And I can 't think a wife was ever chose on A beach with such abominable clothes on. And I have seen a dude with horror held, Standing before a party in the wave. With every seeming faculty dispelled. His outspread hands applied his eyes to save, Shocked toforgetfulness as dress rebelled. When in the surf the wearers fair did lave, And only left the contemplated dimity. When apprehensive of a boot's proximity. The tide goes out. The watery line retreats , As if about relinquishing attack. But still the surf, in fierce endeavor, beats Upon the shore and then skedaddles back. GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. And, though subdued in myriad defeats, 'Twill still press on, with power in no wise slack, Banging away with a success as futile As man's, engaged in some emprise inutile: What time I 've roamed along the sounding shore. The breakers thundering at my very foot, All irrespective, in their equal roar. Of favor, as in days of King Canute; Minding the monarch not one fraction more Than yonder dog, a half amphibious brute. Who in the rolling waves defies disaster. And plunges in to follow his young master. Oh ! restless evermore majestic sea! Thy monotone, like music, fills my brain ; My heart in deepest sympathy with thee, Catches the cadence of thy grand refrain, That saddens, as it sounds, a mystery Of feeling seemingly akin to pain. And yet not quite, a sense of something louder. An earnest longing, waked by sinell of chowder. * * * * Yon is a storm, and far there o'er the main, The curtained clouds descend the view to hide, A mist pervades the air, and distant rain Scuds with the breeze above the ruffled tide; The yachtsmen douse their sail, who deem it vain, With canvass full, the gathering winds to bide. And then drop anchor in the billows' bosom, Letting the fierce winds blow as it shall choose 'em. Like those philosophers of ancient Spain, Who, we are told, when a great deluge poured. Magnanimously chose to let it rain. With good cigars and other matters stored ; And others, too, at such times should be fain, When they can 't help a thing, how'er deplored, To let it happen with a mind contented. The more because it cannot be prevented. 'T was but a squall — the clouds to seaward sweep. The sails are up again, and the bright sun Shines on the vapor that the clouds still keep. And the fair bow of promise spans the dun, The waves again in gay exuberance leap, As though exultant, with a playful run, . A DA 7' AT YORK BEACH. And everything is for the storm more glowing; Even the grand old waves seem brighter flowing. Now night, in calm benignity, "comes down," With stars and silence its paternal "tip,'' The lighted cottages that darkness crown, And mirthful cadences, from many a lip, Plainly reveal, as shadows deeper frown, That sea-shore votaries won't give up the ship, And there's a saying here, of those who've stayed out, It is not late till Nubble Light is played out. The Nubble light sheds forth its lurid gleam, Succeeded by the starlike ray of Boone, And sea and shore seem but a mystic dream, A summer phantasy set to the tune Of gentle surges, that enchantment seem, When, on the dreamer's eyes, outflashing soon, A flame appears, by the wide ocean glaring, Proclaming that a clambake is preparing. Now, of all groundnuts that are dug by man, The clam has precedence, and old and young Have gustatory longings as the}- scan The luscious morsel, scenes like these among. Where a weird circle, like those under ban Of furies, as the light is round them flung, Sit patiently and sing, or, eager looking, Waiting for clams that are in seaweed cooking. And such was this wherein my palate took An active part — more active than my feet — And as the bivalves in their shells did cook. My watering mouth and eyes, with zeal replete. Took in the situation like a book, And scene and seasoning made the feast more sweet. Needing but this al fresco exposition To give supreme delight to deglutition. Ah, old York Beach! I '11 bear away from thee A rich remembrance of tliy sovereign worth. Where scenes sublime, and hospitality. Made it yon time, the crown of all the earth ; Where the deep music of the summer sea Blent with the tones of human song and mirth, Where cunners fried, the best of little fishes. And chowder ruled, the monarch of all dishes. 28 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. And long within mv inner ear shall sound, The rjthm of thy billows as they roll, In memory's eye appear their wild rebound, As they fall back before the land's control; And I shall pray the season be brought round When I again may bathe with earnest soul, In thy grand tide, needing no bathing garment, And, as ' tis only soul, there '11 be no harm in 't. Prof. Wideswath. SWAMPSCOTT. THE ideal fishing village: that for fifty *^s>\ years was Swampscott, Mass., an an- Vci\ cient hamlet on the coast of Essex £| county, until 1852 a part of the city of ^^ Lynn. If in these latest years, the ,, ^.^s.^^^ /^-^c5>^^ place, instead of a fishing village, has Vi^^^^s^^^^-s^ become a fashionable summer resort, with eleganl: villas and thronged hotels, it has the grace not to forget, but to glory in, its early industry. The town seal, upon which old residents look with unceasing pride, represents a Swampscott skipper getting his schooner under way at the rising of the sun. The occasion of this just pride is in the fact that while the fishing interest was in its best days, it was carried on by an exceptionally high class of men, and distributed its gains so equitably as to benefit, not alone a few favored citizens, but the entire community. Notwithstanding that considerable capital was embarked in the business, it was carried on upon such terms that the men who braved the dangers and per- formed the work in catching the fish were the principal sharers in the profits. Some of our readers may have visited the village of Scheveningen in Holland, the place where the herring fisheries, which have brought such abundant wealth into the Netherlands, had their origin. 224 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Like Swampscott, this place has now become a famous smnmer resort, but unlike Swampscott her fishermen, who have wrested wealth from the waves, have not themselves profited by their toils, but have passed their gains over into the hands of a few capitalists. While the latter, therefore, have grown immensely rich, the workers and their families have remained a class by themselves, poor, untrained, unaspiring — fishermen and fishwives and nothing more. Whereas, the fishermen of Swampscott have been men among men. The skipper who commanded a vessel was the equal of his crew and shared the same with them; and all alike were the equals of the owners, oftener than not, being themselves the owners. Thus the man, who with his own hands drew the cod from the brine, and who as he walked up the beach, clad in his oil suit, may have seemed to the sauntering visitor but a common laborer, was yet a substantial citizen, having his own comfortable, well- furnished home, not devoid of luxuries, and was an influential director of the affairs of the town, while his children were growing up, well trained and educated, to take their places in life beside the sons and daughters of men in the profes- sions. A contrast this, to the Dutch fisherman content with his pipe, who to-day goes down the Scheveningen beach to his place aboard another's ship, followed by his peasant wife, carrying on her head his hamper of stores, to return and wait for him in a home which will never even aspire to those appointments which all Swampscott homes contain as matters of course. Truly, as compared with foreign fishing interests, or as compared with the con- ditions under which the industry is now carried on from Gloucester or Boston, those old-time Swampscott ways were the very poetry of fishing life. Indeed a berth upon a Swampscott vessel in those days, was accounted a prize to look forward to, as one may desire a lucrative commer- cial appointment. The consequences of this prosperity were that a pretty village grew up — almost every house 5 WAMPSCOTT. 225 owned by its occupant — and gained for itself in time churches, schools, a town organization, and all the ap- pliances of modern New England life. As to the origin of this fishing industry, it w^as coeval with the settlement of our shores. The most distinguished name in the early history of Swampscott, is that of Deputy Governor John Humphrey, who came from Eng- land in 1634 and made this place his home until his return in 1641. We have a record that in 1632 a vessel laden with fish, of which he was a part owner, was wrecked off Cape Charles, and twelve men w^ere drowned. As his in- terest in the business would hardly ha^•e ceased when he came here upon the ground, w^e may reasonably say that Swampscott fishing interests date back 250 3-ears, and be- gan under no less honorable auspices than the patronage of the w^orshipful Deputy, afterwards General John Humphrey. Daniel King also, a merchant of considerable enterprise, who died in Swampscott in 1672, is supposed to have been interested in fishing. Little, however, can be positively af- firmed of the business, until near the close of the eighteenth century. Shore fishing from small boats, it may be assumed, was alwa3^s carried on to some extent; but in 1795 James Phillips and several associates purchased a schooner of about twenty tons burden, called the " Dove," and embarked in a larger enterprise. In 1820, this single schooner had given place to six, of from twenty-seven to fort}^ tons measurement. Another thirty 3'ears, and the fleet, great and small, numbered thirty-nine sail with an aggregate of a thousand tons measurement. Three decades more and the maximum as to number of sails — reached about 1870 — was passed, the fleet consisting in 1886 of twenty -four registered vessels, with an aggregate (new or custom house) measurement of not far from a thousand tons. Some noteworthv chancres have been made in the con- struction of these Swampscott vessels. The first schooners. 226 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. known as "jiggers" or "pinkies," were nearly as sharp at the stern as at the stem, the stern rising to a point several feet higher from the deck than the bow, in which point was a groove for resting the main boom. The last Swampscott pinkey to be built was the " Bonny Boat," constructed in 1836; but it was some twelve years later before this style of boat had ceased to be in the majority in the fleet. The immediate successors of the pinkey were the old fashioned, square-stern, clumsily-built, slow-going vessels, modeled after the heavy, sea-going ships, and of which the "Banner" was perhaps the best Swampscott specimen. The " Launch," one of the last of the pinkies, used often to contest with the " Banner " the claim for im- provement on the part of these square stern vessels. It is, perhaps, doubtful how this contest might have ended, had not a new vessel, superior to either, entered the field. In 1842 the "Jane" was added to the Swampscott fleet by Mr. Eben B. Phillips. This vessel, built a few years be- fore at Duxbury, had distinguished herself by outsailing the Boston pilot boats, and as speed was a great desideratum in the fishing trade, vessels of her general build were destined to displace both pinkies and square sterners. As to the "Jane's" own exploits. Postmaster D. P. Stimpson of Swampscott, who was for several years her master, relates that she once sustained a creditable contest with the first large pleasure yacht owned in Boston, Mr. W. P. Winchester's " Northern Light. " Coming in to Boston fully loaded with fish the "Jane " was overtaken off Mino'c's Ledge by the " Northern Light," and the skipper supposed of course the yacht would go by him. Finding, however, that his vessel was doing so well, he made her do a little better, and the yachtsman doing his very best and indignant that a fisherman should lead him such a race, was yet unable to pass until they had reached the Castle, a course of some fifteen miles. For the first half hour the crew of the "Jane " had been busy on deck SWAMPSCOTT. 22y cleaning their fish, making it an additional wonder that she had stood the yacht such a contest. The conservative old skippers, in their heavy going crafts, said at first that the "Jane" would do well enough in fine weather; but that such a boat would never stand the storms and rough seas which fishermen have to encounter. On the very first oc- casion, when she and what was allowed to be the crack old-timer, were caught out together in a gale, the "Jane" gathered up and went into port and was all unloaded be- fore her rival came in sight. From that time onward there was no question as to her abilities. As to her shape, no other craft was ever exactly like her; but the model, which she was the means of introducing into the fleet, and which now obtains in all Scampscott vessels, was that of the sharp, graceful clipper. Constructed upon this clipper model, some of the present fleet have attained to great speed, and might take no mean place beside our famous ocean racers. The " Paul and Essie," for example, built in 1882, has been mistaken for a yacht, and complimented as such, for her beauty and speed. In her one might easily and pleasantly make a voyage around the world. As this is a typical Swampscott boat, a brief description of her may be given. She has one deck and two masts, is 78 feet long, 20 feet in breadth and 7^ feet deep, her total custom house measurement being 66 88-100 tons (old measurement 90 tons), 6 38-100 tons of this capacity being in enclosures upon deck, so as to give facility for handling a large catch of fish at one haul. She carries a mainsail, foresail, staysail, gaff-topsail jib, flying-jib, and balloon-jib; and if she does not " walk the water like a thincr of life," she yet, like all her companions of the fleet, can make a quick run to market. Methods of fishing have also changed, as well as the style of vessels. The fish taken are chiefly cod and had- dock, for ground fish, and mackerel. Until 1857, ground fish were caught by hand lines, each fisherman handling S2S GLEAX/XGS FROM THE SEA. two or three of them, with one hook on each. From that date began the practice or trawling, or fishing with hun- dreds or even thousands of short lines (about two feet long) and hooks suspended (about six feet apart) from a long trawl line. These trawls are "set" — extended in place upon the fishing ground with anchors at both ends — bv men who ffo off from the vessels in dories. To *' haul," a long and heavv trawl is perhaps the hardest work a fisherman has to do. Since 1855 mackerel have been taken in large seines measuring from 100 to 200x20 fathoms. All mackerel vessels carry a seine boat, in con- struction a large size, lap-streak whale boat. When a school of mackerel is sighted by the look out, this boat at once puts off and lowers its long seine entirely around the school, and then with a pursing string the bottom is closed, and, if the work has been successful the game is secure. Unless the vessel has been able meantime to sail alongside, the seine is then towed to her, and the fish are bailed out bv dip nets. When convenient to run to market the mack- erel are iced and carried in fresh: otherwise they are salted. In former vears, Swampscott was itself the best market; indeed, prior to 1840. was almost the only extensive mar- ket along the coast, teams coming hither from aU the up- per countrv for their fish supply. -It was nothing unusual," says Mr. Thompson's book, "to see from fift}- to one hundred vehicles at the beach at a time, some of them from Canada and drawn by four horses, which came to town from Boston after their proprietors had purchased merchandise and loaded in that city. Such teams would be put up here, and in the early morning would be started on the home trip." Even within a decade, many fish were brought in and sold in Swampscott and carried up to Bos- ton in wagons: but latterly, it has proved better to carry the fares directly to the Boston market. Reform has been made in the clothing of the fishermen. SWAMPSCOTT. 22g Their oil suits, enveloping them from head to foot, have been worn now for more than half a century, having been substituted for the old cumbersome and expensive suits of leather about the vear 1828. The making of this oil clothing is the onlv manufacturing industry of Swampscott, save the building of boats. Not a few of the latter are built here for other waters, the builders having earned a high reputation. A not unimportant feature of Swampscott hshing, indeed the feature which has given to tishermen from this port their exceptionally high rank, has been the liberal "lay," or contract between the owners of the vessels and the men emploved. This is such as to give a much larger propor- tion of the profits to the tishermen than is the case with Cape Ann or Boston vessels. For example, the settlement on a fare of fish at Boston would be as follows : First of all, before anv bills are paid for food, cook, etc., the vessel draws one- fourth part of the gross receipts for a cargo. Then from the remainder the bills are deducted, and the balance is divided among the men. Whereas, upon the Swampscott lay. the bills are tirst paid, then the vessel draws a tifth and the balance is shared bv the crew. Thus on a fare of $300.00 when the bills amounted to $100.00, according to the Swampscott lay, a crew of twelve men would receive $13.33 each, and the vessel S40.00: while on the Boston lay, the men would get onlv $10.41 each, and the vessel would draw S75.00. Though this fishing business has passed its palmiest days, it still is a flourishing industry and mav vet assume its old proportions, though the fish are never likelv to be marketed here again. All told there have been 132 reg- istered Swampscott vessels engaged in fishing, and their contributions to the wealth of the state has not been in- sigfnificant. To those who are now inclined to this kind of sport, no pleasanter vacation trip could be suggested than to arrange 2SO GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. with an intelligent and companionable Swampscott skip- per — and most of them are of that kind — to take a week or ten days with him upon the waters of Massachusetts Bay. Or, perhaps, he will go outside of Cape Cod, or down the coast of Maine. What with the chances of falling in with some fine looking yacht and perhaps beating her at sailing; or of sighting a school of mackerel at the same moment with some other vessel and then seeing a lively contest as to which should first cast a seine around them; or of getting a good fare and then scampering with all sail for market, beating or getting beaten by the rival boat, the amateur, if a true fisherman, would find himself quite in his element. SUPPLYING THE MARKET. SHORE fishing for the Boston market has greatly changed since fifty 3^ears ago, when and since, for a long time, the business was done, almost exclusively, at Com- mercial Wharf, where the boats landed and sold to customers — dealers and others — who chose to buy. The wholesale business was limited, and people residing at the north of Boston or in towns beyond, would visit the wharf on their return home, to procure fresh fish from the boats, that were sold very low. Quite a procession would at times be formed of fish purchasers carrying home their cod, haddock or mackerel, and a dinner or breakfast of fine fresh fish, was the best and cheapest meal that the domestic man could procure. The wharf was a favorite resort for many who visited it for the fun of it, to listen to the breezy altercations that often occured between the fishermen and their customers, and often the visitors would be tempted to become purchasers where a string of fine fat mackerel could be had for a mere "song of sixpence." Portly citizens, merchants, clerks, and housekeepers gener- ally, would embrace the occasion to supply their larders at home with the fresh-fish luxury, and go awa}'^ bending under the weight of large bunches of .delicate mackerel. This was continued until companies were formed to pur- chase of the fishermen at wholesale, hucksters increased, 232 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. and retail fish-stores grew numerous, when the romance and fun departed. Apropos to the visitation alluded to, a friend tells me a funn}^ anecdote of one who would pass in these days as a dude, who was so nicely fastidious that he could hardly have been induced to carry a bundle, even though it should contain a silk dress for his wife. One day, happening upon the wharf, he entered into the spirit of the scene and naturally made a purchase! He enclosed it nicely in paper, tied it up carefully, and proceeded home- ward. Dropping in upon the one who told me the story, he held out his bundle, saying : " You can 't guess what I have in this." " Nothing easier," was the reply, entirely at random, " I should say you had three fresh mackerel there. " The man actually turned pale. " What," said he, "does it look like it?" He was assured that it did not, but, confessing to two mackerel in the bundle, he could not be assured that they had not betrayed themselves, and employed an office boy to carry them home. The vessels engaged in the old trade were principally "pink-stern" schooners — the origin of which name I never could learn — defined by Webster as having a very narrow stern, who supposes it to proceed from a " casual " mean- ing of an Italian word, signifying " a little eye or prepara- tion, " but the philologist must have had a strong imagina- tion to have so applied it to the Chebacco boat. These boats were from Kingston, Cohasset, Scituate, Duxbury, and a few from Plymouth and Provincetown, the South Shore preponderating over the North, though there were some from Gloucester and Marblehead. They were from 25 to 75 tons burthen, each, the latter tonnage very rare. They always went home Saturdays, and left for the fishing- grounds Sunday night. This was the constant practice for a long time, the crews being principally town's people. They would come into Boston on the afternoon of each day, and, if they did not sell out, close the balance of their fare next morning, in season to leave for the fishing SUPPL7'ING THE MARKET. 233 grounds. The business after a while extended from Com- mercial to Lewis and T wharves, the fleet constantly growing. Some of the fleet subsequently crowded upon the packet piers, others occupied City wharf and any- where that they could find an opening, and others even went to South Boston above the bridge, but the recognized headquarters were at Commercial street. None of the ves- sels paid for the wharf privileges that they enjoyed. The fish business was, for the greater part, peripatetic, peddlers, with handcarts, thronging the wharves, dealing directly with the fishermen, and carrying their merchandise from door to door. There were no wagons then employed for the purpose, and by daylight, in hundreds of localities, the huckster proclaimed the merits of his wares — "All alive ! Just out of the water ! " — - with lungs like a stentor. The handcarts were the rivals of the long-tailed trucks of those days, of which tens of thousands were owned in Bos- ton, for transportation. After a while both trucks and handcarts disappeared, superceded by the express wagon, and now the huckster yells from his wagon and sells his wares with an effrontery commensurate with his new-found importance. The business soon began to attract attention, and one or two agents established stores, acting intermediately betw^een the buyers and sellers, and the trade grew until it became the voluminous and thrifty system of to-day. The pink stern boats disappeared — -rarely now to be seen — suc- ceeded by substantial square-sterns of from 80 to 180 tons, the most substantial and costly vessels built. In summer they are able to carry from five to ten tons of ice, to stay away three or four days, and make a great saving in their passage to and from the city, thereby increasing their stock of fish. The agents, who own parts in these vessels, have increased to a host; so much so that they have leased T wharf for their special accommodation, and a more energetic set of merchants Boston does not possess. 234 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. The business has fallen off, on the South Shore, and is principally confined to Gloucester and Provincetown vessels, and the old-time crews of town's people have changed to include all nationalities. The " catch " is simply enormous. The old-fashioned way of taking fish was by hook and line; in the new way, by setting a line, with 300 to 500 hooks attached, over night, to be hauled in the morning, and frequently a fish will be found on every hook. The hooks are baited with pogy or herring, that are obtained from down-east fishermen that do little besides catching these fish for bait. This bait is cut by hand and the trawls are coiled in tubs or baskets. The men are never idle. All either fish or cut bait, and, soon as free from any special toil, over go their lines to see what response may come from below. These vessels carry from twelve to twenty-five hands, and each being so heavily manned is a guarantee of their greater safety. The crews are a very hardy set, and, as a general thing, they are more orderly than those in the merchant service. One thing, they can't do anything with a drunkard, on a fish- ing voyage, and shun him. As regards the profits of the business, the middle man makes the greatest, as is usual in most of such cases, as the fish to the consumer costs him as much as lamb, if not more, and average higher every day in the year. The more there is sold the more is the return, and none of our dealers show any particular reasons for dissatisfaction. The distance to which the Boston fish trade extends is enormous. Our railroads transport its product to the far west and all in- termediate points, and fish from the water, to-day, packed in ice, to-morrow may be served for dinner in thousands of homes beyond the Hudson, or away up north hundreds of miles from sea-water. California and the western states are supplied by the railroads with fish, due to the ice for their sweetness, and New York city depends upon Boston market for a supply. SUPPLJ-ING THE MARKET. ^jj The fresh fish business has become one of Boston's largest interests, and it differs from that of the mackerel and salt fish trade as much as a Russian goods importer does from a West India sugar importer, having no relations with each other, beyond drawing their several products from the deep. A SHORE TOWN. A FRIEND has furnished me with a sketch of the little town of Sedgwick, in Hancock county, Maine, that ma}^ not be irrelevant to the readers of my book, which is discur- sive in its scope, and of which it may be said that "every- thing is fish" that comes within its net. " Sedgwick is on the Benjamin River, which stream is mostly formed by flowage of the tide, and is but a mere brook at half tide. It runs into the Eggarnoggin Reach, which is a sort of ocean river, running between the islands and main land. The town is twelve miles from Castine, east from Blue Hill, about twenty from Bar Harbor, and two from Deer Island. It is mainly hills and valleys, with not much level ground except on a ridge, that leads to Sar- gentville. Besides farming and fishing, there is little doing in the town. A great many eggs and berries, however, are sent from there. Blueberries are very abundant, together with raspberries and mountain cranberries. A daily mail and telegraph connect Sedgwick with the busy world. It has a doctor or two, but no lawyers, and two stores where can be had anything in the grocery line, boots and shoes, hats and caps, clothing and furniture, ship-furnishing goods and all kinds of rigging, indeed everything but rum. That is not to be had in town, and, as a consequence, there are no rows or rowdies there. Every- thing is peaceful and lovely. A steamboat touches there every day, in sum- mer, from Boston or Bangor. " I can 't say what the town is most celebrated for, but deem that for enter- prise and spirit the ladies bear the palm. Most of the church fund is raised by them, the public hall was built by their exertions, and the plank sidewalk owes its existence to them. The religion of the town, like most of the down-east towns, is Baptist — not the real old hard-shell sort, but of a more liberal kind. "The views about Sedgwick are very fine. That from Caterpillar Hill is grand beyond description. The Mt. Desert mountains on one side, the Cam- den Hills on the other, with Katahdin and Gold Mountain on the north, and A SHORE TOWN. 237 many others, with numerous towns and villages and hundreds of islands and bays, form a picture never to be effaced from the memory. "The people are kind and very hospitable, and never tire in doing kindness. The hotel, which the town boasts, carries the idea of temperance so far that not even a cigar is to be had, although the natives of the place come, now and then, into the office to have a friendly smoke with the genial landlord and guests, and discuss the various topics of the day. The hotel is named the "Traveler's House," and it is well named, as it is more like a home than any other public resort anywhere. The commercial traveler, who gets within ten miles of here and does not come to this hotel to spend the night, must be a stranger in these parts. Old Mr. Lawson, who is three score and ten, is the hostler, and if a horse gets within the above-named distance, he will surely come, without being driven, to get the good care and generous feed of old Un- cle Lawson. At least, so says an old peddler who has been on the road for twentv-five years. "Sedgwick is celebrated for its old people. At a party in the fall of 1SS4, there were some fifteen or twenty of over seventy-five years. There are several in town who are eighty and ninety years old, and Mr. Philip Prevear was one hundred and fi-ce years old the 8th of December, 1884, having been born at Hampton Falls, N. H., December 8th, 1779. His second wife, still living, is over eighty. He is full of fun and as lively as people who are not ^et sixt^^ He voted for Blaine and Logan, and looks good for ten or twelve years yet. "The principal buildings in Sedgwick are the Church, Masonic Hall, Hotel and Custom House, which latter is a small wooden building, with the Post Office under the same roof. This latter would not give a stranger a very high opin- ion of Uncle Samuel's business there, but, since the renovating and remodel- ing which has just been done, one can now get into the office without climb- ing a pair of rickety stairs; for, strange to say, the building, which is only one story and a half high, was formerly a carpenter's shop, down stairs, with the post office and custom house above. There was only a part of the premises where one could stand up without bumping his head. "There are about thirty thousand bushels of clams dug in Sedgwick every winter and sold for bait." From the above description it may be judged that it is a very nice little place to visit, and fishermen and yachtsmen find it a convenient and desirable stopping place. Its near proximity to Bar Harbor, with the increasing importance of that watering place — soon, perhaps, to become a commer- cial depot in connection with steamers from Europe — must tend to its advantage, and the time may come when its custom house and post office will arrive at a two story distinction, and be a coveted place for some modern seeker after official emolument. 30 A RHYMED LETTER. THE following rhymed letter, received from my friend Mr. Shillaber, explains itself. Oppressed by a fit of the gout, to which he is subject, he writes, from his " auld chair's well worn leather," as cheerful a strain as though he were ac- tively on his pins: TO THE MASTER OF THE JENNIE B. Chelsea, Mass., May 2j, '85. Dear Smith, — though stern misfortune dour Hauds me enslavit by its power, Thanks be to pen an' ink, the hour Rins not so bad, When I can banish feelings sour Wi' jou, mj^ lad. An', stickit here my desk beside. My thoughts gang free an' far an' wide, Flowing out swiftly, like a tide, Wi' purpose true. An' swift as railway trains they glide, To crack wi' you. What pity ' t is, this simmer weather, That we twa couldna meet thegither. Beside my auld chair's well-worn leather. An', face to face, Gie interchange wi' ane anither O' talk's best grace. A RHYMED LETTER. 23^ An' how are ve, my worthy fren'? I hope ye 're hearty, but an' ben, An' that auld shoulder ache has taen Itself awa'. An' that the mind o'er pain agen Is sovereign law. I wish yovn- mind o' wheels an' cranks, So deft controlling mills an' banks. Could gar distemper show its flanks, • An' make it flee, As easily as Captain Frank's The Jennie B. Oh, wad the power that ae directs Gie ye release frae ail's effects That sae annoy ye an' sae vex Wi' bitter pang, I could forget my ain defects To see ye Strang. To-day a breath comes frae the Maine, And Capt. Frank has kindly taen Plis pen, in happiest refrain, To gie me cheer. But hands out promises, in vain, I mauna hear. He beckons me, in fishing line. The Jennie B's good crew to join. An' where auld Tanto's waters shine. Cast o'er my bait. To draw the beauties frae the brine That there await. Ah, glad wad I the beck obey. An' tak' my willing steps away Where codlings bide an' dogfish play ; An' what for no.'' The gout holds unremitting sway. An says " No go." But you, my fren, hae this in store. Anticipate, an' muckle more. Awaiting you on sea an' shore, An' may your joy Be unimpaired by ache or sore. Nor "dogs'' annoy. 240 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. You scent the pleasure from afar, When July's incandescent star Shall drive you from the town awa', To seek the cool That's ne 'er denied or checked ava At Saco pool. There, out upon the bright blue sea, The win's an' waves cavorting free. The fair, half conscious Jennie B., Wi' bounding keel. The " Commodore," wi' rapturous glee Will new life feel. No monarch of the mighty deep Whose royals the empyrean sweep. Will feel more pride, as on will leap His bark o' grace. To where the festive codlings keep Their well known place. Or should a swordfish show his fin, Awa' he '11 drive the prize to win, Wi' Capt. Frank, so used, lang sin'. The dart to throw, He'll feel a pride that town nor "tin" Can e'er bestow. I '11 here reel up my ragged rhyme, Wi' hope that a' may happen " prime,'' An' gie ye fun an' joy sublime, The season through. An' every moment of the time Be quid to you. B. P. Shillaber. CAPE COD. AT the time of the May Flower's arrival at Cape Cod, and while stopping at what is now Provincetown Harbor, a number of those on board wished to make a settlement there, but, being overruled by the majority, they all pro- ceeded to Plymouth. Shortly after a number of the party favoring settlement at the Cape, returned thither and settled at Nauset, now Eastham, but the steriHty of the soil was such that they were forced to find some other occupation by which to obtain a livelihood. Fish of all kinds, the cod especially, abounded along the shores, and the colonists naturally took to fishing as a pursuit, and it has been the main branch of industry at the cape ever since. It was from the cape, in early days, that some of the fishermen went to the Island of Nantucket to teach the people there the art of whaling, who thrived so abundantly under their instruction, that Nantucket was at one time the largest port in the country, and had the largest fleet engaged in that business. Now, however, scarcely a vessel sails from that port. The exact date when Cape Cod vessels commenced their fishing on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, it is hard to determine, but it was ver}- early in the i8th century. The vessels employed were not larger than some of our shore fishing boats, to-day, and would carry from four hundred 242 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. to eight hundred quintals of cod-fish, according to their sizes. At the present time they have vessels engaged in the same business that carry four thousand quintals and upwards, Provincetown having a fleet of large vessels, sec- ond to none in the states, numbering some sixty sail in all. The mackerel fishery has passed through many changes. Every town on the cape once had its mackerel fleet upon the waters, but now the industry is confined to but a few towns, and the fleet sailing therefrom is very small. During the ^^ears between 1840 and 1850, Truro had some twenty sail of vessels engaged in the fishing interests and other maritime occupations, but by the closing of the har- bor, caused by shifting sands, not a vessel of any kind now leaves that port, and where there was once a large village, where ship-building was carried on to some extent, and all the different artizans plied their respective vocations, with flourishing stores to supply every article used, now the town has entirely disappeared, and the only structure there is the Old Colony railroad station and its out-buildings. It was from Truro, in 1848, that Capt. Rich, in the schooner Richard, made a mackerel trip, and took, with hook and line, on what is called the Middle Bank, situated between Cape Cod and Cape Ann, one hundred and seventy-five barrels in about five hours, the largest catch ever known to be taken with hook and line. During the years 1847 and '48, — known as the "Chatham Years," on account of the vast shoals of mackerel being off that part of the cape, — it was no uncommon occurrence for vessels from Truro to get two trips per week, at Chatham, of from two hundred to three hundred barrels, and land them at Truro. With all the modern appliances of seines, etc., that season's catch has not been beaten. Truro has suffered largely in the loss of her seamen. In the memorable gale on the 2d and 3d of October, 1841, forty of her seamen were lost, at one time, all in the prime of life, one only having arrived at the age of fifty years. There is a monument erected to CAPE COD. 243 their memoiy by their fellow citizens, on which is inscribed the names and ages of those who were lost. Wellfleet is the only town on the cape that carries on the mackerel fisheries to any great extent, and the business has so decreased there, that at present there are but about twenty sail engaged in it, where, in prosperous times, there were nearh' one hundred. Other fishing interests of Cape Cod, like our merchant marine, are nearly ruined, and unless something is done to revive the business, our mari- time occupations will be entirely destroyed, and supplanted by others. Many incidents of the sea, along the Cape Cod shore, could be written that would seem marvellous, and the old adage that " truth is stranger than fiction " might be appli- cable in many cases. The schooner Bion, Capt. Isaac F. Mayo, belonging to Provincetown, was in Boston fitting for the Grand Banks. Having completed arrangements, the schooner started to return home. The wind was at north- east, the weather thick and rainy. After sailing what was judged a reasonable time, and expecting to see Long Point Light, a light was made off the port bow which was deemed the one wished for, and the vessel was steered to what was supposed to be Truro shore. Soundings were taken, and she was tacked about for Provincetown Harbor. When it was judged that she was off the wharves, the anchor was let go, and the crew turned in, as the night was dark and stormy, concluding not to go ashore. In the morning, upon going on deck, through the driving mists and rain, a strange land was discovered. The boat was lowered, and, upon going ashore, it was found to be Well- fleet, the southern part, know^n as Great Island, the Well- fleet light having been taken for Long Point. The vessel had been steered towards Chatham, then tacked and stood across Wellfleet Bay, coming out through a verv narrow passage, (known as James Harbor), not over one hundred yards wide, with a rock in the centre of the channel, the 244 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. passage only available at the very top of high water and requiring a skillful local pilot to take a vessel through, and in that case never attempted by any one in the night. Thus this little vessel, by accident and luck, had come through, and anchored upon the outside in Cape Cod Bay, without any damage and unbeknown to the captain and crew, all expecting to find themselves in Provincetown Harbor in the morning. Captain Mayo and several of the crew are alive to-day to bear witness to the fact. Many narrow escapes from drowning, by Cape Cod men, could be narrated, but one of the most miraculous charac- ter will suffice. The schooner Frank Herbert, Captain T. L. Mayo, on the voyage from the West Indies to Boston, while running before a gale in the Gulf Stream, had two men washed overboard, by shipping a sea, as they were reef- ing the foresail. Their names were A^^dlath and Hawes. The vessel was immediately brought to the wind, but her boat was damaged so that she could not float, and would have hardly been available if she could, in such a heavy sea, and Captain Mayo made different tacks to keep as near the spot as possible, in hope of saving the men. He was determined not to leave the scene till daylight, or till all hope was exhausted, .though urged to do so by a pas- senger. He would not abandon the chance of saving his men. The night was very dark but the water shone with a strong phosphoresent light. About two o'clock in the morning, the vessel, then on the port tack, a streak of light in the water was seen approaching like that made by a large fish swimming. The passenger called the captain's attention to it, remarking that it was made by a shark, and it was no further use to look, longer for the men. While watching its progress, it gradually drew nearer the vessel, and, as it got to the main chain plates, a body rose out of the water and seized hold of the irons, when a rush was made to the side and Hawes was helped on board, after having been in the water three hours and forty min- CAPE COD. 24s utes. He was an extra good swimmer, had divested him- self of all his clothing, and only tried to keep himself afloat till he saw the vessel so near that he could reach her. He had her in view all the time and knew that Captain Mayo would not abandon them while there w^as any possibility of their rescue. The other kept up for about two hours, when he told his companion it was of no use to try longer, raised his hands above the water and sunk. Hawes said that his faith in Capt. Rich was better, in his peril, than a life-preserver. There are effective life-saving stations on Cape Cod, and during the fearful winter of 1885, every test was made of the humanity and manhood of their crews. These stations were established on the cape in 1873. ^^^ ^''^t upon the extreme end, comprehending in its scope Highland Light to the Race, another at what is called Peaked Hill Bars, the third at Highland. Since then another has been placed between, at what is called Highland Head, and the others have been moved to equalize the distance between the sta- tions, so the end of the cape has got all the protection possible. They are supplied with all the approved appara- tus, and the crews are composed of young men inured to the toil and hardship of sea-life and experienced boatmen. The captains of the stations are men of undoubted skill and energy. Together they present a tine body of men, ready to dare and do in the service of humanity. Every year the government makes additions to and improvements in the apparatus, comprehending improved boats, rafts, and mortars for throwing lines to wrecks, and it seems hardly possible that anything can be added to increase the facili- ties of the service. There are times w^hen, despite of all the skill and power that is available, lives will be lost. Such is the nature of our coast, where long sandy bars extend far out into the ocean, that vessels will strand out of the reach of the rocket or shot, and the sea is so heavy that it is impossible to 31 246 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. launch the boat. In such cases all that can be done is to watch the beach and rescue any of the crews that may come to the shore on debris of the wreck. One of the most notable instances of this kind was narrated to me by one of the life-saving service men who participated in the scene. On March ist, 1875, the Italian bark Giovanni, from Palermo for Boston, came ashore, during a very severe gale and snow-storm, and struck the Bars, two miles to the eastward of Peaked Hill station, at 1 130, p. m. Unfortunately it was low tide and the bark stopped on the Bars, nearly one quarter of a mile from shore. The crew of the station immediately started to their assistance. The weather for some time previous had been exceedingly cold and a heavy icewall was formed along the beach, in some places from twelve to fifteen feet high. It was impossible to get a boat along the shore, and the sea was so rough that it could not have been launched through the breakers had it been attempted. It was thought best to try to save the men by the use of the shot line and car. Accordingly the cart was loaded with as much of the apparatus as it would contain, and started for the scene of the wreck. After great effort the beach was reached, over the ice blocks, opposite the wreck, at 5 130, it having required four hours to overcome two miles of distance. The men, though greatly fatigued, went to the next station to procure other needed apparatus, assisted by some of the station's crew who were on the spot. A life-car was obtained and other gear, and with volunteer aid, over impracticable roads, all was ready at midnight, the crews having been incessantly at work. It was then so dark that the vessel could not be seen from the shore. A lire was kindled and a watch kept on the shore till da^-light. During the absence of the station-men, two of the bark's crew attempted to save themselves by coming ashore on a plank. One of them was washed off and drowned, the other clung to the plank and finally reached the shore only through the assistance of CAPE COD. 247 one Bernard Jason, who, tying a line around his body, phmged into the boiling surf and brought him safely to land, when he was instantl}^ taken to the station and cared for. As soon as da34ight opened so that the bark could be seen, the mortar was loaded and fired, with hauling line attached, which failed. Three shots were fired in the attempt to get a line on board, the line breaking several times, when it was found that the wreck covild not be reached in that way. Upon the cessation of firing, the crew on the wreck, who had been sheltered under the top- gallant forecastle, came on deck, seeing that operations were suspended on shore, and, the vessel fast breaking up, they went up the fore rigging and out on the yards, from which thev jumped into the sea in hope of reaching the shore by swimming. The water was so cold that they chilled and sank. Some, howe;ver, kept on top of the waves for nearly half an hour, but a strong westw-ard tide prevailing, thev could not land and thus perished within the sound of the human voice. No aid could be rendered to them. The narrator of the incident said it was one of the most heart-rendering sights he ever witnessed. Upon the breaking up of the wreck, her cargo, masts, spars and sails strewed the beach for miles, affording a rich opportun- ity for wreckers to secure a large share for salvage. The bodies of the major part of the crew came to land and were buried in the cemetery at Provincetown. The Peaked Hill station did an immense work during the storm and cold of January, 1885, saving thirty-one lives from two crews stranded upon the beach. It was, truly, a noble record. The achievement was performed at great sacrifice to the station-men, whose hands and ears, in a number of cases, were frozen in the attempt at rescue, while they were encased in armors of thick ice that ren- dered action almost impossible. Besides those upon Cape Cod left at home to pursue fishing, and look after their cranberry bogs in the summer, 248 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. many, prompted by their early love for the sea, go away to fill places in our merchant service, every one inspired by a laudable desire to become ship-masters, and for the most part they succeed. A glance through the shipping list will prove this — the Baxters, Crowells, Phinneys, Hallets, Thaxters and Riches revealing the place of their origin — and no better or more reliable ship-masters are to be found than those from Cape Cod. I have alluded to the cran- berry cultivation of the Cape, w^here, by a providential dis- pensation, the growth of this crop is made to supply what is lacking in the diminished fishing business. The decrease in the fishing return has been caused by its own redun- dance. Plenty of fish are caught — blue-fish and mackerel — as stated in the chapter on Fish Weirs, but there is no market for them with the vast competition along the north- ern shore, and the fishermen yield to fate. Schools of black-fish entering the bay, as they do quite often, afford rare sport as well as profit to the Cape Cod fishermen, who make lively times with their irons and bombs, and one good school will yield a profit far exceeding what is obtained in the best seasons of fishing. Cape Cod, itself, is a very interesting spot to visit, pre- senting as it does less changes from old custom than any place in the state. Isolated and apart from the rest, yet wdth a good railroad and telegraph connection, the mass of the people move on according to good old custom, and, although many fine dwellings have been built within a few years, by prosperous retiring sons of the Cape, the old building tastes are generally preserved, which is especially the case at Provincetown, where all the dwellings and stores are erected on one long street, wath their peaked ends, all alike, looking toward the harbor, presenting a very odd and foreign appearance. There are churches and schools and banks in the place, with Masonic and Odd Fellows lodges, and a cultivated society that renders its iso- lation bearable, and affords a fine summer resort FISH AND FISHING. All Essay delivered in yaiiuaiy, 1886, before the Fanners Cliil>, of Andover, Mass., by y. W. Smith. Mr. President and Gentlemen: — I rise, responsive to your wish, as the loaf said to the baker. There is an old Turkish cry, "In the name of the prophet. Jig's f' but here, in the name of the projii, I say, Jis/i.^ and everybody will accept the amendment. What I am to say about fish and fishing must necessarily be confined to generalities, as the subject is so vasl, that you would cry avast, before I could get half through. I can only hope that, by hook and by crook, I can invest the subject with interest to repay your attention. That horticulture and pisciculture have relationship, is argued by the fact, that the great Fisheries Exhibition held in London in 1883, was in the Gardens of the Royal Hor- ticultural Society, South Kensington — a strong presumptive proof of their affinity. The two sciences are also 5/^«^owed b}^ the practice in Maine of putting three kernels of corn and a herring in every hill, and also a closer intimacy in that tender union of the products of sea and land — minced fish and potatoes. I cannot, however, dwell on this, but spread my sails for the broad ocean of facts relating to my 2JO GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. subject, and cast my nets for a fare that may be profita- ble to ni}' hearers. The fishing interests, all over the world, become more important every year, as demand for the products of the sea increases, and marine food, cheap and nutritious, affords wider scope for men and money in meeting the increased supply. Nearly as many, if not quite as many, are employed in fishing as in the mercantile marine service, — in our own, probably, far more; and assuming our own fisheries for comparison, we can imagine the vast aggre- gate of those engaged in the fishing interest throughout the globe. According to the United States census of 1880, the number engaged in the fisheries was 131,426, of which 101,684 were fishermen, the balance shoremen. The fish- ing fleet consisted of 6,605 vessels, (with a tonnage of 208,- 297 and a fraction), and 44,804 boats; the total capital invested $37,985,349, thus distributed: vessels $9,357,282; boats $2,465,393; minor apparatus and outfits $8,145,261, and other capital, including shore property, $17,987,413. These figures are not Jigiirative, however speculative they may be, and they have been increased since to far greater proportions. The fisheries of other countries, stim- ulated by demand of the dense populations bordering upon distant seas and bays, have doubtless increased in propor- tion as great at least as our own, and statistics would exhaust themselves, and human patience, in presenting the details. Common calculation would break its slate and run awa}' before the accumulation of figures representing the fishing interests of the world. Large as our business is, it is but a mole-hill in comparison with the mountainous whole. And 3^et, notwithstanding its vast importance, how little is known of sea fishing, or fresh water fishing indeed, beyond the stories of tourists and amateur fishermen, whose exploits tax our credulity and serve as themes for wit in the papers; — in one instance, where a sojourner by Lake F/SH AND FISHING. 251 "Winnipiseogee caught a fish through a hole in the ice, which, the fisher said, he lifted up out of the water to his full height, and then could only see Us eyes, " What a whopper!" was the comment. "Do you doubt my word?" asked the fisher. "Oh, no," was the reply, "I only meant what a whopper of a fish." All that is known of either is that a need is supplied through their instrumen- tality. The purchaser who secures his bit of halibut, or the cod or haddock for his fry or chowder, does not think of the peril incurred to procure it, until he reads of some fierce gale on the "Banks" or elsewhere, where fishermen go down with their barks and are never heard from more, whose widows and orphans are thrown on the mercies of the world. Let us hope they may find them. The cold blasts of w^inter nor the heats of summer, the charms of home nor the pleasures of the shore, deter the fisherman, impelled b}'^ a destiny that binds him to a servitude unknow^n in other avocations. His foot is on the deck, and, come what may of peril, he braves the danger for the public good, expecting nothing beyond the pittance that his precarious toil may win. There is a vast deal to be thought of in a fisherman's career that commends him to our grateful consideration, and we should not forget it. Then the fishing business has few^ landmarks b}' which its course may be noted. Its field is the sea. No tall chimneys w^ith their black smoke trailing the sky, no lofty piles eloquent with whirring spindles, no palatial blocks filled with the merchandise of all nations, parade themselves for inspection as in other trades, but awa}' upon the waste of waters, with an ocean between him and his home, the fisherman's sinker plumbs the depths, where the rolling wa^'es toss him at their will; and thus he pursues his toil, the monotony of which would be appalling to a shoreman, reheved only at times when he does not catch an3'thing, and his empty kit is an aggravation. Published statistics and exhibitions — like that of London 2^2 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. in 1883, patronised by the Prince of Wales, (a good name for a patron of fisheries, though a whale is not a fish) and the Duke of Edinburg, and Lord Granville, and the Lord knows who — are exciting interest, and people are wonder- ing why they never saw the fisherman's importance before. And yet he has been at the business a great while. Fish- hooks, of bone and of rough iron, are found among the rel- ics of the most distant ages, and it was a calling upon the Sea of Galilee, and of course the Mediterranean, two thou- sand years ago, and when the ones who were called by the Master were dispersed by his death, Peter said "I go a fishing." The Sea of old Galilee is full of history, tra- dition and fish. Almost all countries have legislated regarding the fisher- ies, from time immemorial, in fixing bounds and establishing treaties, the earliest recorded instance in Italy, 13 14, and from that down to the present day. In feudal times rivers and lakes were the province of the barons, and the law of protection lay in strong sinew and iron armor, and if foe- men dared catch fish in forbidden waters, they caught it at the hands of the barons aforesaid. Laws regulating the fisheries of Newfoundland and Labrador have existed since the discovery of their value by the English and French, excluding our occupancy, but our fishermen of past gener- ations did not regard restrictions much, but pushed their pinkies over the tabooed lines, or came so near it that they could reach over and take what they wanted from the other side. Many new fish are coming into our waters, though the cod still remains king. I am well acquainted with him through my own introduction to him at Biddeford Pool, and I call bn him every summer, sure of a very satisfac- tory reception. There are various kinds of cod, among which the "boneless cod" is very deceptive. He is a scaly fellow, and it is almost impossible to detect the difference between him and a cusk or hake. The cod in our Hall FISH AND FISHING. -s-jS of Representatives is one of the right species, and was placed there in order to aid in cod\iy\ng the laws. He swims the aerial tide, above taking a bait, though it has been intimated that " ground bait " distributed among the "schulls" below has succeeded in luring too many to the hook. The cod is known in all the cool waters of the world, and our yet unappreciated Alaska is prolific in this monarch of the deep. We find him in his corned condition a great traveller in warm climes, and he is greatly prized where the shadow of a man at noon is measured by the size of his sun umbrella on the ground, served up with plantain, ^ — ^the staple food of the Indies. The improvements in implements for taking fish are greatly adding to the progress of our fisheries. The modes of thirty years ago have mostly been discarded, the trawl and the improved net having succeeded, in a great degree, the slower method of hook and line in taking fish for the market; but such of former methods as have been employed in the past still hold their place, and amateurs and inshore fishers for ordinary domestic purposes are retained, the hook still resorted to. One improvement can scarcely be hoped for, and that is to repel dog-fish when fishing for cod. This fish is one of the greatest annoy- ances to fishermen, who justly call them the " mosquitoes of the sea," for they swarm in numbers, and are always ready to bite. I have found my own patience, though cherubic to a wonderful degree, reduced to a minimum by these pesky fish, and have actually enjoyed the use of the club for their immolation on the rail. They are of the shark family, and are miserable go-betweens, the contempt of the fish below and the fishers above them. The majestic halibut, the night-walking hake, the agile and graceful pollock, the seductive mackerel, the fierce and soldierh' sword-fish, the voracious blue -fish, the aldermanic salmon, and the modest haddock, have, besides the cod, a home in our waters, wdth many others, of which the had- 32 2S4 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. dock is most prolific and most approved by many for domestic purposes. Hucksters procure them from the boats when plenty, and cry them " All alive," to suburbans for five and ten cents apiece. They vie with the mackerel for cheapness, and for quality are often as doubtful as " No. i mackerel, ten cents a dozen." Lobsters — "long-tailed Crustacea," so-called by science, — form another branch of the fisheries, though, I am sorry to say, the lobster crop is diminishing, and I repeat the lines of Goldsmith: — ."111 fares the land, to threat 'ning ills a prey, When lobsters threaten failure and decay." Law may try to save them, but laws are not self-sus- tained, and law-makers are too fond of lobster salad to be very rigorous in enforcing them, — making a compromise between the love of law and the love of salad, as delicate an operation as " splicing the main brace " at sea. A num- ber of states in our own country are passing laws for the protection of fish, and the U. S. Government is liberal in its appropriations to enable the excellent Fish Commis- sioner, Prof. Spencer F. Baird, to prosecute his piscatorial researches. 1 his Commission has reported that there are one thousand and five hundred different varieties of fish in American waters, salt and fresh, of which but one hundred and fifty are utilized as food. I shall say but little of fresh water fishing, although it is matter for warm congratulation that fish-culture in our streams and ponds is crowned with the best results, restor- ing to our inland waters the descendents of peoples that once inhabited them, with a possibility of causing a plenty as great as that of the olden time, when, in taking an apprentice, his indentures specified that the urchin should not be compelled to dine on salmon more than four days in a week. The salmon in our streams will be heartily welcomed to his old haunts, and that he may increase, in size and numbers, is our epicurean wish. When the Colum- bia River is fished out, and the last "lone fisherman" has •L:.. ;:^. 'V FISH AND FISIIIA'G. 255 reeled in his line, then, perhaps, the Merrimac, restored to its pristine status, may make the world glad by its muniti- cent supply of the old-time luxury. Such, in a modified form, is the hope of enthusiasts, and any approximation to it will be regarded as a beneyf^V^ al dispensation. Efforts should be made by commissioners, by hybridizing, to pro- duce a boneless shad. Fish culture, in our own country, is in its infancy, and, like experiments in horticulture, devoted attention and needed time are required to bring it to perfection. The spirit is awakened, and the means are ready to make it a success, and the science of the soil and the science of the stream are identical in one particular, the production of the best, whether fruit or fish, for human benefit.^ One ploughs the land, the other ploughs the sea; one whips his cattle, the other whips the stream; one cultivates the acre., the other wields his rod\ one looks to his )ict profits, the other to the profit of his ncts\ — and land and sea cultivation have harrozuing experiences. But, while shore culture may be improved through science, fishing on the stern sea is unchanged, the same to-day as at the beginning, when the water was separated from the dry land by Almighty fiat. It is true, as I have said, that new means are constantly being devised for working this vast field, — new instruments, new boats, new seines; but the crops remain the same, yielding bountifully for the good of man, with no mildew, nor blight, nor season's difference to mar their quality. Gentlemen, — my limited time admits of no more exten- sion of this grand and vast subject, the importance of which must be admitted even from the little I have shown. Its scope is limited only by the bounds of the universe, and as it is said that the drum-tap of England is heard around the world, so the fisherman's conch shell or tin horn penetrates every fog from Newfoundland to earth's remotest shores, and returns again, bringing airs from every sea beneath the sun. A WINTER LETTER. I HAVE, in previous portions of the book, introduced a Sum- mer Letter from the same source as the following, and in- sert this as a balance to that, showing that friendship, in its wintry aspect, may be as genial, with icy air about it, as when invested with the atmosphere of summer. Chelsea, Feb. 4, 18S6. My Dear Friend Smith: — The hurtling air is cold without, And rattling at the water spout, It greets the ear with elfish shout And fearful din. And struggles with persistence stout To worry in. It struggles with each window pane, As if to dash them in 't were fain ; Half yielding to the forceful strain, The chattering frames Scarce their integrity maintain To thwart its aims. It dashes round the feathery snow, As if 't were out upon a "blow," Dimming the street lamps' honest glow With fierce assail, And making it a thing of woe To face the gale. A WINTER LETTER. 257 Pedestrians called to meet the blast, With stamping footsteps hurry past, Their thoughts on home attaining cast, Which stays and cheers, Achieved with grateful heart, at last. And frozen ears. But I defy its fierce attack, With good coal fire behind my back ; I hear the stiffening branches crack On yonder tree, And make no groans, nor cry Alack! But smile with glee. My duplex burner squelches night. And by its bright and cheerful light, I sit in slippered ease to write. With whate'er pith, A letter, in the storm's despite. To my friend Smith. Dan Shakspeare wished a "pen of fire," But no such agent I require ; My pen is warm as my desire To please my friend; I don't wish higher to aspire Than this one end. Old Winter is progressing fast, With Candlemas some three days past. And all the signs of that forecast Were counted good; May't prove more gentle to the last Than this fierce mood. Bring forth the steeds! on with the sleigh! Let tinkling sleigh-bells glad the way, While the warm blood's harmonious play Keeps tune and time, And rosy health asserts its sway Above the rime. And you who revel in such scenes As winter brings, with handy means. Take in the gentle wife and weans, — A dainty load — Or some good friend who sleighward leans. And try the road. 258 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Then give to mirth the guiding reins, Forget jour penalties and pains, Till shoulder ache no more distrains. And care is stilled. The crispy road, the whitened plains, With pleasure filled. Leave business toils that so annoy, And give the passing time to joy, That Nature's agencies employ, To quicken health. And you will gain from this, my boy, Far more than wealth. I connot sleigh, but I can slew A few rough rhymelets round to you, And tell you what you should pursue, Like many more Who preach but never practice do, Except to bore. As I sit here immured, alone. How much advice abroad I 've thrown. But rare accepted, I must own ; For man, not shrewd, Rejects such wise suggestions known For his best good. But you do not my counsel need. Behind that active-going steed, Where inclination prompts the deed, And all advice May follow at whatever speed. Upon the ice. I'm out of breath with cantering rhyme. And trenching rudely on your time, Waiting perhaps to hear the chime Of sleigh-bells sweet. That make our frozen wintry clime With bliss replete. B. P. Sim. LAMER. THE MENHADEN, OR PORGY. THE accompanying plate is an exact portrait of the men- haden, a fish abounding in our waters, and, which, through recent discovery, has assumed a distinguished position in our commerce. It belongs to the family of the shad and herring, but can give them points in regard to bone. Men- haden have never been popular as an article of food, but have long been recognized as food producers, of which toilers by the sea have availed themselves by employing them for manure, three to a hill of potatoes and corn. The rivers and creeks so swarm with them, in their sea- son, that they are a very easy prey, and crops of farm produce are not so sensitive to bone as human crops, and their digestion is easy. Science has determined that the chemical constitution of menhaden is similar to the phosphates of the south, the accu- mulation of ages, and that by chemical process the fish may be made immediately available for agricultural uses. To this end menhaden fishing has become momentous. Thou- sands of vessels are employed in their capture, millions of capital invested, and the amount taken of almost infinite magnitude. By actual statistics, in 1875, (and the number has greatly increased the past decade) there were employed in taking menhaden, 2,643 men and 343 vessels, (of which 39 were steamers), and the anount of capital employed 2bo GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. was $2,000,650. The number of menhaden taken was 563,000,327, equal to 1,877,767 barrels. The ammonia of the fish is produced by grinding and compressing the bone and fibre, the oil separated for other uses, and phosphate of hme, likewise a result, that is con- verted into an agricultural appliance. Notwithstanding the vast numbers taken of the fish, there seems to be no diminution of the quantity. The water where they swarm is literally alive with them. At sea the schools extend for miles, and expert fishers, with their nets, draw in immense numbers. Yet, as large as the amount may be, there is not enough to meet the demand for the product made from them, which reveals in increased crops and lux- uriant grasses. Thus it will be seen that the menhaden takes rank over fishes of far weightier importance, individually, and becomes a power through his combined status. He is a handsome little fellow, as may be seen from his portrait, and of not much consequence as a single fish beyond his good looks, but, though not even fit for food, follow him logically on his mission and he will crop out in both food and clothing, seen in rich fields of wheat and corn for the former, and in cotton and wool for the latter. The menhaden, in his chemical form, becomes a mine, as rich as Golconda, to the country, and renders the product of decayed guano undesirable, with a resource as substitute inexhaustible in its supply when its capacity is evolved. So the agile Httle fish is to be respected and reckoned among the wealth of the land, more certain in its yield than more pretentious assets. In 1880, Professors Goode and At water published an ex- tensive history of the menhaden, including its habits and uses, extending through nearly six hundred pages, the latter devoting himself to its value as an agricultural application, and the various modes of preparation and adaptation, and I refer my readers to that work for all necessary description THE MENHADEN. 26 1 and statistics, my space being too limited to admit of their introduction. There are many works engaged in the pro- duction of superphosphates from Menhaden, the largest of which are the Pacific Guano Company, located at Wood's Holl, Mass., on Vineyard Sound, and on Chisholm's Island, Charleston Harbor, the business headquarters of which are at Boston. The compan}-, originally, was formed for the importation of guano from an island purchased by them in the Pacific ocean, from whence its name. The imported guano having deteriorated somewhat in quantity and its commercial properties, the attention then awakened by Mad- dock & Goodale, regarding the Menhaden as a stimulant to cultivation of the soil, led to the present manufacture, which surpasses or equals the best guano imported. The fish is combined with the phosphatic rock of Chisholm island, and formed of fossilized matter descending from infinite ages, and the result is an article of immense agricultural value. The Holl manufactory is ver}^ extensive, superior to anything of the kind in the country. The superphosphates are made from the "scrap" of the tish after it has been tried out for its oil, which is procured from the manufacturers of the article and shipped to the works at Wood's Holl. The above describes but part of the pro- cess, sulphuric acid, kainite, incidentally, and sometimes com- mon salt, also entering into their composition. There is none of the guano imported now that formerly w^as com- bined in it, but the South Carolina phosphatic rocks are deemed equally as good without it. The works for mak- ing the superphosphates, including those for preparing the acids — covering acres of ground — are ver}^ extensive, pre- senting an imposing appearance from the sound. These works are situated about half a mile north-west of the vil- lage of Falmouth, and as the spot was eligible for a water- ing place fashion protested against their being placed there, but the town deemed that a good tax bill was better than the uncertainty of summer visitation, so the plant was made 2b2 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. to the mutual content of the company and the town, and there it will remain. The works at Charleston are about two-thirds as large as those at Wood's Holl, and consume about the same relative quantity of "scrap," amounting at both works to from ten thousand to twelve thousand tons yearly. The company own Swan Island, in the Caribbean sea, and Chisholm's Island, its phosphates coming from the former during the "family disturbance." The entire surface of Chisholm's is composed of this phosphate, a very rich deposit, though surpassed by that from Havana, between Cuba and San Domingo, from which source, likewise, the company receives its supply. Dog fish and sharks are utilized at some works for the same purpose as the Menhaden, but the farmers will find it out through diminishing crops, though the fishermen would hold up both hands for the extermination of the "dogs," the pests of the sea. Sharks are more endurable than the imps that are inimical to both fisher and fish — preventing the former from reaching his prey, and the latter from the priv- ilege of preying, at his own risk. UNITED STATES FISH COMMISSION. ERNEST INGERSOL, IN HARPER S WEEKLY. THE work of Professor S. F. Baird, as United States Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries, is popularly thought of mainly, as one of propagation and the restocking of vacant streams with fish, but at the beginning the Com- mission did not mean to undertake any such labor. The duties of the Commissioner were defined by the law of February 9, 1874, creating his office, to be an investiga- tion whether any and what diminution of food fishes of the coasts and lakes of the Union had taken place, and to inform Congress what ought to be done about it. For three years previously, in fact, Baird had been making such investigations privately, and his first official work was to examine into the condition of the fisheries and fishermen of New England. The wide knowledge thus obtained led to the despatch of himself and staff to Hali- fax, in 1877, to serve as witnesses and experts during the examinations which resulted in the existing treaty between Canada and the Uuited States in regard to fishing. Only a short time had elapsed, however, after the appointment of the Commissioner, before a proposition was made by the American Fish-Cultural Society, which resulted in an appropriation by Congress, and instructions 2b4 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. requiring Baird to begin the introduction and propagation of useful fishes throughout the country. The inland streams and the Great Lakes received the earliest attention in this direction, carp, trout, salmon, and white-fish being raised in government hatcheries and distributed. Such hatcheries now exist in all parts of the country, and the most benefi- cial results have followed in the restocking of depleted waters. Parallel with this, and necessary to its success, went constant study into the characteristics and habits of the fresh-water fishes, the earlier reports teeming with this kind of information. Professor Baird had been a student of fishes for many years, and for ten years anterior to his appointment as Commissioner had spent each summer in scientific study on the Northern coast. He well knew, therefore, the bulk and value of the sea fisheries of New England, and had been watchful of their decrease in some directions. To these the Commission, therefore, turned early and earnest attention. At Gloucester and other lishing ports, statistics and information were gathered at all seasons. In addition, the Commission each summer established itself at some shore station, and by spade, net and dredge, dissecting knife, microscope and experiment, made itself thoroughly acquainted with the whole life of the ocean adjacent to the shores, seeking to discover the breeding, migratory, or feed- ing habits, the subsistence, enemies, or associates, and the influences generally which affected the presence or absence, plenty or paucity, of all the cetaceans, fishes, mollusks, and crustaceans useful to us. An enormous quantity of speci- mens of marine life were gathered — hundreds of novel forms every year. These were all properly preserved for the National Museum, while any duplicates obtained were distributed to prominent institutions of learning throughout the country, thus bringing to the assistance of teachers and learners everywhere (and especially in the interior) speci- mens of many classes of animal life wholly inaccessible to UNITED STATES FISH COMMISSION. 265 the ordinary collector. Probably half a million specimens have thus' been sent out by the National Museum — a fact not generally known. At each summer station a temporary laboratory would be fitted up, where the staff of naturalists and experiment- ers could work. This staff includes not only those few in pay of the Commission, but many volunteers — special stu- dents or teachers in colleges — who were glad to contrib- ute their help in order to get sight of the pelagic zoology and profit by it. This volunteer contingent increases from year to year, to the advantage of the government work, as well as to those who embrace the opportunities offered by the operations of the Commission; and as the latter are principally teachers, the good they get is passed on to their classes in better and better instruction. This is another important educational influence exerted by this bureau. A third flows from the elaborate publications of the Commission. The Annual Reports since 187 1 number twelve illustrated volumes averaging 1000 pages each; since 1881 five illustrated volumes of Bulletins — publica- tions distributed at frequent intervals to persons specially interested, a signature at a time — each containing 500 pages. There are other publications. In these pages is contained a vast quantity of exact scientific and thoroughly practical information, written by specialists or translated from investigators abroad, which forms the basis not only, but almost the entirety, of what is known in regard to the fisheries and deep-sea life of our Atlantic and inland waters. Dredging and net-towing were at first done by hand from row-boats or hired sail-boats. Then the Navy Department loaned a little steamer or two, and deeper water could be traversed. Finally the Commission got money to build or buy steamers of its own, of which it now has four. One of them (the Albatross) is a splendid sea-going vessel of a thousand tons, fitted with every mod- 266 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. ern appliance for the dredging, sounding, and experimental fishing in the profoundest parts of any ocean. -Her work has been mainly in the Gulf Stream, and in the deep waters surrounding the Antilles, and has been highly suc- cessful. To do the oceanic work of the Commission, and take care of its steamers and property, it became necessary to fix upon a settled sea-shore station, and Wood's Holl, at the heel of Cape Cod, was chosen as the best point. The water there is of remarkable clearness and salinity- — quali- ties needful in hatching the delicate eggs of fishes like the cod, which is carried on there; it is comparatively warm, since the southerly currents are drifted in, while the arctic current is fended off by the Cape, and the sea fauna and flora are remarkably rich. in consequence. The abundance of aquatic life in Vineyard Sound is amazing. The excel- lence of the harbor and easy accessibility of the station are also advantages. Congress granted successive appropriations for preparing the harbor and constructing buildings. A rocky point was sur- rounded by a massive stone breakwater, which enclosed a basin something over an acre in area, and, at the same time formed a harbor of refuge, behind which storm- driven vessels could find a safe anchorage. The basin was subdivided into two parts, one of which formed a great cage for keeping large captive fishes whose spawn was wanted, or which it was desired to observe, and the other became a shelter for the small boats, and was occupied by lesser fish pens. Beside this basin were erected a large building intended as a residence and otfices for the staff (there were no suitable quarters and scant boarding accom- modations in the village), and a commodious laborator}^ and hatchery. Between the two stands an engine-house and water-tower, where the heating and gas-making apparatus is placed, the powerful pumps which hoist salt-water for the use of the aquaria (healthier and handsomer aquaria do UNITED STATES FISH COMMISSION. 267 not exist in the world), the hatching-boxes and fire-extin- guishing pipes, and the great machines that furnish distilled water for the use of the station and the steamers, and for the support of the fresh-water aquaria. Wharves sur- round a portion of the basin wall, and will ultimately be extended, so that the whole fleet of the Commission — including the new model fishing schooner, Grampus, of w^hich much is expected — might lie there at once if desired, while a huge shed contains coal enough for their ordinary supply. Though the station makes a pleasing appearance, and is as neat and tasteful as the people like to see their govern- mental quarters, nothing of effectiveness has been sacrificed for ornament; and it is amusing to hear Professor Baird recount the ingenuity he resorted to in order to accomplish certain desirable things cheaply enough. The expenditures of the Fish Commission since its organization have amounted to about $3,000,000, and no waste, much less any fraud, has been charged in regard to a dollar. It is doubtful whether even the " private business man," of whom one hears so much nowadays, could have set up this station for what it has cost the government (less than $75,000, all told, if I am not mistaken) ; and it is certain that no one could manage it more economically, and that no investment of an equal sum by the government is pro- ductive of greater or more wide-spread benefit. FISHERIES OF NORWAY. NORWAY has, from time immemorial, been celebrated for its fisheries, their product affording the largest propor- tion of the commerce of the countr}-, the cool waters of the sea forming a coveted home for cod and herring. The taste of the lower classes of Norwegians is for the water, and fishing is the chosen occupation. This, however, is di- vided with farming, as the fisherman aspires to own a small farm by the sea, on which to raise potatoes, rye, turnips, and barley; cutting hay enough to feed one horse, two cows and some dozen or so of sheep. It is a poor but independent life, and the farmer-fishermen are a hardy and healthy race. They do their farming during the four months between the spring and fall fishing seasons. Each farm, or lot, has upon it a small house and barn that are situated closely by the sea, for the convenience of change when the season demands. The children of these are taught very early to earn their own living, and many leave home at ten or twelve years, to literally paddle their own canoe. They start out, happy and brave, with little or no schooling, and become fishermen or farmers, or, fired by a higher ambition, leave for America. "Its population," — a friend writes me concerning Norway — "are cradled in their fisheries. They are the babe's joy and the old man's com- fort." While the boys are farmers or fishermen, the girls FISHERIES OF XOFIVA]'. zbg are provided with a school at wliich they are taught to spin, weave and make clothing. This school is situated at Sparsberg, but is not free, the pupil paying $5.14 for four months' instruction. At times of emergency women and girls lend a hand to cleaning and curing fish. The iishermen use nets mostly for their purpose, the cod and herring procured from different localities. The former is cured in the same manner as was employed b}^ the fore- fathers. The herring are salted in barrels and are sold at the average price of $2.75 per barrel. Stock-tish, which takes its name from the manner in which it is cured, is the cod dried to the consistency of wood, and is much used along the Mediterranean and in the tropics. Purchas- ers procure them from the fishermen, and prepare them for market by cutting off their heads and disemboweling them, after wliich they are tied together, in pairs, by the tail, and hung over a " stock," or spar, out in the sun and air, un- salted, and allowed to remain six weeks before they are taken down. They are as hard as wood. The fish are inspected before they are shipped. Stock-tish is an exclu- sive Norwegian commodit3^ Halibut are numerous on the North coast of Norway, from Christiansund to Hammerfest. Thev are causfht mostly with trawls. Halibut for the most part are shipped to England ; the balance salted in flitches. Some 3'ears, mackerel are plenty on the southern part of the Norwe- gian coast, but they are seldom caught north of Aalesund. From Aalesund to Bergen, and from Bergen to Lindesneer (the southernmost point, or cape, on the coast of Norwa}-), and thence up to Christianin fjorden, mackerel have been seen in large schools. Sometimes mackerel come along the shores and are caught with sweep-seines and nets, but most of them are caught by trawling. The wav this is done is to take a common-sized cod-line, from twelve to fifteen fathoms long, with a three-quarters-of-a-pound lead on the end, (attached to the lead three fathoms of fine 3:( 270 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. • gauging), and one hook. The small boats have from four to six of these lines attached to the stern, and, saiHng along at a speed of from two to five knots, the lines are almost on top of the water, when the mackerel, attracted by the moving bait, will seize it. The fishermen know nothino- about heaving a boat to, and throw bait to toll them along- side, and thus they are caught. The same practice v\'as pursued by New England fishermen years ago, and some are employing the same method off Block Island to-da3\ Mackerel off the coast of Norway differ in size as they do here, but the mackerel caught in American waters, during the months of August and September, are far superior in taste and qualit}' to those of Norway, but they appear to be the same kind of fish. Some of them are shipped to England; the remainder salted for other markets, at about ip5 per barrel. Purse seines are hardly known among the fishermen in Norway, but seven years ago Capt. C. Mason, of Glouces- ter, fitted up the schooner " Notice " with seines and boats and sailed for Norway. Whether he intended to fish there or not did not appear, but on arrival in Norway he sold out everything at a good price, and that was the first purse seine ever known there. The fishermen are a hard}^ and jolly class of people. Although they have to face dangers and hardships through the winds and storms of the treacherous winter months on the sea, when they get on shore they forget all the nar- row escapes that they have experienced while out in open boats many miles from land. They gather in their boat houses, play cards, tell stories, and fix their fishing gear for new encounters with the elements. There is more or less superstition among them, and it is their custom to mark almost everything — buckets, brooms, etc., — w- ith a cross, to repel evil spirits. They believe in mermaids, and occasionally reports are made that some one of them has been seen; but not one has been known to be caught. -I, FISHERIES OF XOFWA)'. 271 There is a graver superstition regardinijf a flat tish, cover- ing acres of land, by the name of skagen. He is said to lie upon the bottom, and the flshermen anchor upon his back, the fish below feeding upon the monster. When fishing is begun, the skagen rises slowly from the bottom until he gets within a few fathoms of the surface. They then pull up killock and he slowh' sinks to his -former position. This has belief among very intelligent persons, and Prof. Berg, in his work, claims that he has seen the skagen, and that he looks more like a huid than a Jish, which is very likety if at all. For one thinfj the fishermen have reason to be ijfrateful: there are no dog-fish on the whole Norwegian coast. The fishermen, generallv, have great regard for the Lord's day, and the Sunday law is rigidly enforced, by the otiicers of the police boat, against those who violate it, a heavy fine being imposed for fishing on Sundav. Arbors, the beer gardens, dance houses, and other places of amuse- ment, do a better business on Sunday than on any of the other days of the week, and are supported by what is called a far better class than the fishermen. The habit of drinking is common in Norwa}", the people being as " dr}^ as a fish," whether of the fishing fraternity or not. Liquor is in almost every household, and if a stranger or familiar acquaintance happens in, the master of the house will treat him with the best he has, touching glasses and drinking to friendship and health. Christmas is a great time in Norway, lasting fourteen days. Girls and boys take their wine, which seems almost as free as water, but drunkenness is seldom seen. Fishermen use goat skin, instead of oil clothing, when fishing. The skin is put through a process of tanning and oiling, so that it is water proof, and is sewed together with strings that are cut from the same skin, or the edge of one similar. The toilers' wives make their husbands' clothinir. 272 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. The tishermen have the choice of going to sea on shares or wages, receiving in the latter case thirty-five cents per day, and furnish their own provisions. Masters' wages are $14 per month; sailors' $9. Fresh water fish are not plenty in Norway. The prin- cipal among these are the salmon, which are shipped to Engrland. Tonsberg, it is claimed, leads the world in seal fishing. A large fleet is fitted out every year from that town, which is owned mosth' by a rich merchant, named Floen, who has carried on the business for many years and got very wealthy. He holds great authority among the peo- ple of Tonsberg. He has the power to ship his men before the Navy can procure its crews. The sealing ves- sels are mostly barks and brigs. The men go on wages or shares as may be determined. Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla are the fishing grounds. The sealers are proud of their vocation, and it is pleasant to see a bod}^ of them off dut}', smoking their long pipes in an independent way, with luxuriant whiskers, and long caps made of wool, called tophiic, esteemed a very stylish article by that class of peo- ple. I have been indebted, for the foregoing information, to Capt. C. Johansen, of schooner Oscar and Hattie, of Swampscott, Mass., a Norwegian sailor, and Mr, Wm. Stowe, President of the Boston Net and Twine Compan}-, and express my profound acknowledgment of their kind- ness. Most of the vessels that go on Lofoden and Finmarken, during the cod-fishing season, return home, generall}-, dur- ing the month of July, in order to get ready for what they call Sildfiskery, (herring fishery). Fishermen as well as bu3'ers depend as largely on the herring as they do on the FISHERIES OF XOinrAV. syj cod-fish season, and if the latter prove a failure, thev gen- erally make it up during the herring season. Almost everv ^•ear large bodies of herring come on the coast of Nor- way, and sometimes they play off shore, in deep water, so thev cannot be caught by drag seines. Therefore gillnets are used and the fish are drifted for, some good trips being made in that way. Large schools of herring are driven in shore, at times, by whales, when the long and narrow bavs are filled with them. Fishermen, who are lookino- for a chance of that kind, stretch a seine across the coves, from point to point, and thus pen the herring inside, giving them room enough to play in, and they are thus kept for several days. Then a drag seine is employed to draw on shore all that can be conveniently dressed, the fishermen taking their own time, and out of one of these schools over 3000 barrels have been dressed. If the herrine: do not come into these creeks, the fishermen club together, and, taking four boats, (the easiest one to row, called '-sh-ster-boat" for the leader), they go out in quest of the herring. The cap- tain stands in the bow with a pole 20 feet long, the size of a swordfish pole, called Lysterstanga. The boats are rowed swiftly, the captain pushing his pole in the water now and then, and, if the herring run against it, as mav be readily felt, he will know that the school is sufficientlv large, and throw his seine, thus often procuring immense quantities of the fish. Then the boats are loaded, the her- ring carried to vessels awaiting them, and there sold to the best advantao-e. The herring are large and fat, and the wav to dress them is, first, to cut a piece out of the throat of the fish, and take a small portion of the gill with it in order to make the fish bleed. Then the fish are laid down carefullv in the barrel, with the backs down, in a row, to be salted thorouo-hlv. As soon as vessels in the herring fisheries unload, thev are off again for another fare. The herring season is over i-j4 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. about Christmas time. The days are very short, then : only four hours long; while in June the sun is up the whole twenty-four hours on the northern coast of Norway. At Christmas the fishermen start for home, and, if they have had good luck, they make great preparations for Christmas festivities. The wives and children of the mar- ried ones meet them on their return, and escort them to their house, welcoming them to home and happiness; while the single ones do not leave their sweethearts much longer waiting, but get married as soon as possible, making a home for themselves. Hundreds of people are invited to the weddings thus celebrated, and everybody gives presents of some kind to the happy pair; generally money. The marriage celebration sometimes lasts three days and nights, devoted to eating, drinking, dancing, card-pla3nng, singing and courting for amusement. For two months during the winter scarcely any fishing is done. During this time the fisherman shoulders his gun and goes in search of game, of which there is plenty. The eider duck abounds in Norwa}^ but he is not permitted to shoot one under heavy penalt3\ Thousands of these birds flock together defying the fowler under their government protection. The fishermen repair and make their gillnets during the winter, their seines and other gear being made by state prison convicts. They live very simply, their houses being mostly made of logs, in which the old-fashioned fire place is retained. For fuel, wood and turf are used. Wooden shoes are worn to a great extent by both sexes. Boys and girls are free at eighteen years of age. Any good citizen can vote at an election, but he must have an income of $ioo to en- title him to the suffrage. The 17th of June is a great day in Norway, it being the anniversary of the separation from Sweden, and it forming a celebration as nearly like our 4th of July as possible, the occasion beinor similiar. FISHERIES OF NORWA7'. 275 "LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN." Du Chaillu, in his " Land of the Midnight Sun," devotes a chapter to the fisheries of the Lofoden Islands that is intensely interesting, and comes so completely within the scope of this book that I cannot forbear making a few extracts from it. I confine myself chiefly to this chapter on the fisheries, though there comes, with reading, a strong temptation to give some of his descriptive passages of mountains and native customs. My space, however, does not admit of it. " The Lofoden are famed for their cod-fisheries, which begin in the latter part of Januar}' and last until the begin- ning of April. At that time the rocky and deserted islands become full of life: then bands of fishing craft come, and hundreds of small vessels are seen nestled among the islands. The codfish, in untold numbers, make their ap- pearance, whence no one knows, to spawn. They begin to arrive in January, and leave at the end of March or the beginning of April, migrating toward the North Cape and along the Finmarken Coast; they then disappear for the year. How wonderful is the migration of fish! Whither do they go? How will they know the time for returning to deposit their ova? The codfish are found in large num- bers along the coast; they occur in vast shoals onl}' from the Lofoden Islands east, northward along the Finmarken Coast." His destination was Henningsva^r, having arrived at which place, "Several sharp whistles warned the people of the fact. From the deck of the vessel no sign of habitation was seen, when suddenly boats emerged from behind the rocks, and speedily came alongside. I left the steamer and soon entered a natural canal formed of two islands, Hennings- vaer- and Nalrando, where an unexpected sight burst upon us: A fleet, hitherto unseen, was at anchor, and in large num- 2-j6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. bers. Seventy-five sail had come here tliis year — sloops, schooners and cutters — with crews aggregating three hun- dred and twenty-eight men. Most of these vessels bought their fish directly from the fishermen; several had stores, and sold sugar, coffee, ship-bread, tobacco and many other things. There were six hundred and eighty-eight fishing boats, three hundred and fifty-one of which had come to fish with nets, the remainder with hook and line; the crews of all numbered three thousand, three hundred and thirty- seven men. Craft laden with fish, some almost to the water's edge, were going to and fro, stopping alongside of a vessel to make a bargain, puUing their loads on board, or making for the land. Immense quantities of cod were piled one upon another on the shore, men were busy open- ing and cleaning them, and tens of thousands of the fish were hanging upon poles to dry. Numerous log-houses were surrounded by barrels filled with cod livers, and every rock was covered with heads. Hundreds of boats lined the shore, crowdino- the narrow channel. Great numbers of eider ducks, as tame as those on farms, were swimming to and fro, seeming to know that no one would do them harm." Having been welcomed into the family of the richest man in Norland (worth $300,000 or $400,000) he proceeds with his description: " Henningsvasr is the largest fishing station on the Lofo- den Islands — there are years when over eight hundred boats go there to fish. The warehouse of m^- host was a sight worth seeing: long deep rows of freshl3'-salted cod- fish, six feet high, were packed together, to be afterwards laid on the rocks and dried. There are three different ways of curing the cod. The first, and the most common, is to cut the fish open, flatten, and salt it, putting it after- wards on the rocks to drv. The second is to open the fish, tie them two and two, without being salted, and hang them on frames. The third is to divide each in halves, FISHERIES OF jYORWAl'. 277 connected only by the gills; the spine is then taken out, and the fish hung upon the frames. This method is much the quickest, as the air now operates directly on the ex- posed flesh of the fish, soon making it as hard as wood. It takes one or two months to dry the fish, according to the season." * * * " The settlement is built on both sides of the channel formed by the two islands. The houses of the fishermen are of logs, generally with a single large room, around the walls of which are bunks, as in the forecastle of a ship. These rooms could hold from twenty to twen- ty-five men, two or three sleeping in the same bunk; but, as there were no women to take care of the premises, the beds were far from invitinfj. The surroundincjs were worse. Each boat pa3^s one hundred and twenty codfish for lodg- ings during the season, and each house brings four hun- dred and eighty." " The Norwegian government exercises a paternal care over the men who form such an important part of its pop- ulation, and who contribute so much to the wealth and prosperity of the country. If it were not for the fisheries maay districts of that rocky coast would be uninhabited." But the fishermen have to submit to severe rerrulations. "Formerly no nets or lines were laid, nor any fishing permitted from Saturday afternoon until Monday morning. But a law has been passed allowing the fishermen to raise their nets till 7 o'clock Sunday morning. The maximum fine for fishing during the prohibited time is one thousand dollars." Naval vessels patrol the sea as police, and, by telegraph along the coast, the actual catch of all the towns is known. Thus the state secures all its dues. "The fleet of fishermen is classified in three cateirories: Litters, those who fish with lines and numerous hooks; Garni, those who fish with nets, and Dybsagn, those who fish with a single hook or line. The fishing grounds in Lofoden are divided into twenty-one districts; at each of 3) 2y8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. these all the boats have to start together, and all must return the same day, and about the same time, if possible. Every fishing district has its own letter, and each boat has a number; the name of every fisherman being registered, with his place of residence, birth, etc., so that in cases of disaster the crew of any missing craft can be identified. Formerly the men were obliged to remain during the whole season in the fishing district they had chosen; but now they can go from one district to another, though they must report at once before beginning to fish." * * * " Two kinds of boats are used; one is open, from thirty to thirty -five feet long and six and a half feet beam; the Finmarken boats are longer- — they have a house on the poop — being from thirty-five to forty feet and more in length and from seven to seven and a half feet beam; a pole several feet long is attached to the rudder, and held by the last rower, who steers as well as pulls, thus saving the labor of one man. Their cabins are about eight or nine feet long, affording protection at sea and sleeping accommodations, as the men do not return to land every day. There are also little craft used for transporting the fish from the shore to the vessels; these are not more than nine feet long by four wide." Determined to see everything, he says : "The morning after my arrival I was up at four o'clock to witness the start of the fishing fleet. I stood by the flagstaff on the highest point of the island. No one is allowed to leave before the flag is hoisted. The fishermen came one by one, and all were seated in their boats for some time before the signal was given. At five, precisely, the flag was hauled up by the lensmand, and the air was filled with a heavy booming sound from several thousand oars dipping into the water at the same time, and working with astonishing regularity, which continued for quite a while. As they moved away the boats began to scatter, and by the time they reached the fishing bank — about : Hi 1 '*i J It i " i » i ,1 ,( ' , .|(f' ^. ; 'M -'Pi'' 'i: I ^ FISHERIES OF NOR WAT. zyg seven or eight miles from Henningsvaer, covered with from sixty to one hundred fathoms of water — they were widely apart." * * * "At ten o'clock, one by one, the boats came back, and by noon the whole fleet was in, with an im- mense number of fish. Life had returned to Henningsveer. Boats moved to and fro, going from vessel to vessel, the fishermen trying to make the best bargains they could, and everybody was busy. On the decks were piled the fish just caught; these were cleaned on board, washed, salted, and laid in the hold one on top of another. These vessels would, after the fishing season, go home to solitary farms by the fjord, and their cargo would be dried on the rocks. The price of the fish varied somewhat every day, accord- ing to the catch; that day it was seven Norwegian dollars per hundred, without livers, eggs, and heads; it is some- times less. Great numbers of ducks and gulls were feeding upon the mass of offal thrown upon the water. On that day the catch was said to have reached nearly three hundred and fifty thousand codfish; I have been told that sometimes it goes as high as half a million a day. Many boats landed their loads along the shore, where men were busy preparing the fish. Those engaged in this work were dressed in large pantaloons, aprons, and cuffs of leather. One man cut off the heads; another took out the intes- tines and cast them on one side; others put the heads, the livers, and the eggs by themselves; the latter carefully put in barrels and salted — a barrel containing the ova of three hundred fish. These were sold for nine dollars. They are sent to France or Italy, where they are used for catching sardines. The livers were put in barrels by themselves, sold to the merchants, and kept till rotten, when cod liver oil is made from them. Two barrels of fat livers are said to yield a barrel of brown oil. The tongues were salted, and kept by the fishermen for their own use. The heads were scattered on the rocks to dry, to be used to feed the cattle, at home, or to be sold with the bones for fish manure, a 28o GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. manufactory of which is close at hand, on another island." M. Du Chaillu resolved to go fishing: "The lensmand kindly chose the craft in which I should go. When I came out a profound silence reigned over the fishermen's houses, and nothing was heard but the shrill cry of gulls; the boats were by the shore ready to start. The quietness of the scene soon changed; the men came, and within a short time all was activity. I was fortunate in my arrival here, for it was the first fine weather of the winter. The crew was composed of two strong elderh^ men, two younger, of about twenty, and one boy fourteen years of age, who was serving his apprenticeship. All eyes were watching the flagstaff. Suddenly the flag was hoisted, and thousands of oars struck the water. We pulled to get out of the channel, and, as the wind was favorable, the boats steadily approached their fishing grounds. The crew were guided entirely by the position of the surrounding mountains, and with great accuracy came to their lines. "Every fisherman has his distinct buoys, representing the different objects that they may need to recognize. We went to the first one — a pine roller about four feet long — to the centre of which was tied the thick fine which held the net. As the line was pulled in, two men stood by, each drawing one side of the net into the boat, which is the hardest work; two others behind placed the nets in good order; near the pullers there was a man who hooked the fish and threw them into the boat. There were some twenty nets tied together in fours, each net twenty fath- oms long, and two to three in depth. Eight minutes was passed in raising one set to the surface, and it required fifty minutes to hoist the whole number. The length of time in hauling depends, of course, on the number of fish caught, and on the weather.* Though some cod were taken they were not plentiful, partial migration to some other ground having taken place. We caught only a few more FISHERIES OF NOR WAT. 281 than three hundred, the catch sometimes being more than double this, and heavily loading the boats. " A consultation was now held as to where to cast anew, and seeing others going toward a northerly point, our crew concluded to go also, and leave their nets there for the night. In what direction fish will migrate is only a matter for conjecture, and success during the season depends en- tirely upon striking the right places. The wind was ahead, and our destination was about ten miles distant. It was a hard pull, consuming five hours in reaching the ground. The boats were evidently too heavy or the crew to row, and they would take advantage of, or beat against, the wind. During this time the men inspect their nets, and four, with their drawing-lines, were replaced by new ones that had been brought. Then we began to sound. The first trial showed no bottom at one hundred and twenty fathoms, the length of the sounding line ; the ^second, a lit- tle farther on, gave one hundred fathoms. All along the nets at intervals there were glass balls, about four and one half inches in diameter, each securely enclosed, and attached by a cord three feet long. These were to keep the nets afloat, while stones at the bottom kept the lower part downward. We finished by casting the first buoy, one man throwing the net while another threw the float from the stern of the boat. When they reached the last of the nets it was let down, with a heavy stone attached, four buoys being arranged on the upper surface, there to re- main until the next day. At three o'clock we reached KenningsvEer, none of us having touched a mouthful of food since our start. The fortunate ones that day were those that had lines. The average of each of such boats was about three hundred fish. In the nets two salmon were caught, a not uncommon circumstance. I was invited to spend the remainder of the day with my new friends, three other boats' crews being in the same house. I accepted on the condition that I should partake of their 282 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. regular fare. The dinner was composed of a sort of por- ridge, or pudding, made of ship-bread, liver and fish. I put on the best face I could, but cannot say I enjoyed the meal. "The next day I went hook-fishing, and consequently had to take another kind of boat, and go with another set of men. Each of these craft generally carries twenty-four lines. The captain with whom I went was Hans Mikel Nikolaisen, from Tennerold, in Ebestad, a place not far distant from Tromoso. He was a married man, with three children, and his eyes glowed with happiness when he talked to me of his wife and little ones. This boat was much smaller than the other one, the fishing by hook being much lighter work, and the whole crew consisted of two Sea Laplanders and three strong men. The Laps were easily recognized by their short reindeer costumes, with the hair inside, and Finland boots. The wind was good from the very start, and we rapidly passed the light-house on the island of Nellanddo. About a thousand boats were scat- tered within a few square miles, near Henningsvaer, for there were boats from other stations. After four hours we came to the place where our lines were and lowered sail. Several buoys were taken into the boat, and then began the hauling of the lines by the help of a little roller along- side. There were four lines attached to one another, each one being one hundred fatj^oms long. The hooks were four to six feet apart, generally one hundred and twenty on each line, and at intervals a buoy was attached to the line to prevent it from getting snarled, and sinking too deeply. The lines of all those who fished by hook con- tained on an average, per boat, about twenty-four hundred fathoms in all. An immense number of these lines are cast into the sea every day with the nets, occup3ang the waters for miles. We had not pulled in over two hundred fath- oms of our own when we found they had drifted into a net, and that some of our hooks had caught it — an awk- FISHERIES OF NORWA7'. 283 ward yet common accident — but we were able to free the hooks without much trouble. We continued to haul in the fish, which were very abundant. Once again our line became entangled, this time with three or four belonging to other fishermen, and great care was necessary to sepa- rate them. The men know well their own lines, as, for greater certainty, each one is marked from place to place with the letter of the district and the number of the boat. The work was hard and tedious, for the tides and cur- rents had done considerable twisting for several different fishermen. After the lines had been separated they were thrown back into the water with the fish attached to them. The end of our third one came to the surface, and we saw that it had been cut with a knife, and the rest lost with all its fish, probably about seventy-five. Sometimes, when too badly mixed up, fines have to be cut and hauled into the boat; in that case the men bring them ashore, and give the fish found on them to the owner, who is always known by the marks on his tackle. We then went to the other buoys and hauled in another line, capturing in all three hundred and seventy-five large cod-fish. "After our fishing was over we went to several of the boats near us, and made inquiries about our lost line. In one or two cases, as we came alongside of the boats, my men looked suspiciously into them. Sometimes, when they find lines entangled in the nets, they draw everything on board, being obliged to do so to separate them, and return the fish. Some of the boats had parts of lines not belong- ing to them, which they intended to take ashore. When the fish are stolen the tackle is thrown away, but this very seldom happens. Evidently many of the crews mistrusted each other, and I was told that some fishermen would take fish that did not belong to them simply by way of retaHa- tion, thinking that others who had found their fines had done the same. Of course it is very difficult to prove a theft of this kind; but, when caught, the culprits are 284 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. severely punished by the judges. We cast out again, our hooks being baited by young herrings cut in two. There was a general complaint this year of the scarcity and dearness of bait. There are men whose only business is to catch bait and sell it to the tishermen. My host had a small steamer employed for this purpose during the fish- ing season. When the fishing ground is near the line, fish- ermen return to the shore and go again, and so do also those with nets. " Another sail, two hours long from Henningsv^er, brought us to Slamsund. My object in coming to Slam- sund was to visit Herr M , a celebrated manufacturer of cod-liver oil, which enjoys such great and well-deserved reputation in the United States. The room where the oil is made was not very large, but everything was extremely clean. Several men were engaged in separating the good livers from the bad; all were fresh from fish caught that day. The fat and healthy livers were whitish, while the diseased ones were greenish, and the lean ones red. I was surprised to see the number of diseased and lean livers. The season for the best ones would soon be over, and it happens that the cod arrive at Lofoden when their livers are in the finest condition. The men were very particu- lar in selecting the choicest kinds. After they had been assorted they were put into a large tank, washed thoroughly in warm water, and then placed over an open wire net to let the water drip away. I noticed that extreme care was taken in all stages of the preparation of the oil. There were five large, high, rounded kettles or vessels, sur- rounded by steam at a pressure never exceeding five pounds. By this process the livers boil very slowly for eight hours, after which the oil is filtered twice through cotton, and put in large tin vessels tightly soldered. The product was clean and white, and appeared to me perfectly pure; but the process does not end here. The oil is shipped to Christiania, where it undergoes chemical treat- FISHERIES OF NORWA7'. 285 merit which frees it from the microscopic globules of blood, and from stearine. It is then filtered through paper, and is ready for the market. Some sort of brown oil is made from most of the residue, and what is left after this is manufactured into a fertilizer, said to be very rich. The process has nothing of the repulsiveness of the methods by which brown oil is usuall}^ made, namely by letting the livers rot, skimming the oil, and afterwards boiling it. "There is a church at Henningsvaer, and, during the short fishing season, a resident clergyman. On Saturday no nets or Hues are put out, the law not allowing sufficient time in which to return to raise them on Sunday. Buy- ing and selling cease; the captains come ashore; the fish- ermen shave themselves and put on their best clothes; and all feel that a day of rest has come. " The fisherman's life is arduous. At dawn of day he goes out, and, when he has to row against a head wind, often comes back tired and weary. On their return, after the first meal, all are very busy outside; those who do not clean and prepare the fish, cut bait for the lines, replace the last tackle, and repair the nets. "I left the Lofoden on the thirteenth of April, bid- ding farewell to those who had been so kind to me. The deck of the vessel was literally packed with fisher- men, and their heavy wooden chests were piled every- where; so also were numerous nets and lines and cooking utensils. Everyone was good-natured — laughing, talking, and looking forward to the Finmarken fisheries. They were going to sleep wherever they could on deck, for hardly any of them had taken second-class tickets; they wanted to save their money, and were satisfied with third- class. In a few days the Lofoden would be entirely de- serted — boats and fishermen gone — and on the shores of many an island not one would be left to watch the sea." I quote Johnson's New Cyclopedia in summing up this chapter on Norway fisheries: "All the rivers teem with 36 286 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. salmon and salmon-trout; rich oyster beds are found all along the coasts; lobsters of the finest quality abound; the cod-fisheries in Lofoden give an annual return of 9000 tons of dried fish, besides 22,000 barrels of oil and 6,000 bar- rels of roe, and the herring fisheries along the southwest- ern coast yield annually between 500,000 and 600,000 tons of fish." AMERICAN FISH BUREAU. THE following statements from the annual report of the American Fish Bureau for 1887 are here presented. Dur- ing the past few years, for the first time in this country, anything like adequate figures and statements with regard to the fishing industry have been presented, and to the American Fish Bureau, an institution with headquarters at Gloucester, it is entirely owing that this state of things has taken place. Below are some of the statements referred to: THE FISHING INDUSTRY. " From the most reliable available statistics, we find the fishing industry of North America and Europe gives employment to between 600,000 and 700,000 men and near 150,000 vessels, the total annual products being about 1,500,000 tons, 3,000,000,000 pounds of fish, equal to 150,000 carloads, and would load a railroad train 910 miles long. " A few of the leading nations that help make up these figures are as follows: The United States, with 101,684 fishermen and 6,605 vessels, not counting the small boats and unenrolled vessels of under five tons. Great Britain is reported with 120,000 fishermen, reporting on Jan. i, 1SS7: England, 57 ports, 4352 ves.sels. Isle of Man, 3 ports, 305 vessels. Scotland, - - - -.- - - - -21 ports, 4459 vessels. Ireland, --.------17 ports, 521 vessels. Total ------.-- 98 ports, 9637 vessels. "France employs 126,000 persons in the sea fisheries, the annual pro- ceeds valued at $16,660,000. Norway produces for export $11,900,000, and for home consumption $3,500,000 to $4,500,000 worth of fish. Italy produces $9,520,000, Russia $16,600,000 annually. Gerinany is reported as receiving annually $18,326,000 worth of fish, two-thirds of which were herring." 288 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. THE NEW ENGLAND FISHERIES. " The history of the New England fisheries is one of peculiar interest. In its earliest days ahnost tlie sole industry of the colonies, the salary of the min- ister, the debt due the merchant, in fact, most of the obligations being settled for in the staple commodity, fish. " Probably few of the consumers, as well as many that from the agitation of the fisheries, take an interest in them, could locate, or have much of an idea where the bulk of the salt water fish that supply the nations are caught. They little think of the fisherman as sailing from home for weeks or months ere his return, as being from 150 to as far as 2400 miles from home before he enters his little dory, and there, often 100 miles or more from the nearest land, begins to take his cargo. Yet such is the fact. "In the early history of the fishing industry of New England, the business was carried on in small vessels or boats, that from the abundance of fish had no occasion to go far from shore. In those days the near shore fishing grounds along the New England coast were well supplied with all the desir- able varieties of salt water fish, and were of great value to the producer. The same, probably, might be said of the near shore fishing grounds of the British Provinces at that date. " As far back as 1818, the year of the treaty of London, very little attention was paid to the mackerel fishery, only 30,969 barrels being packed that year in Massachusetts, and for ten years— 1S09-1818 inclusive — the total pack was only 180,492 barrels. "In 1819, the mackerel fishery first makes much of a showing, the pack of Massachusetts being 100,111 barrels. Fluctuating, yet growing in importance up to 1831, in which year Massachusetts packed out 383,548 barrels, an amount that has never since been reached by this state in any one year. " As is well known, the mackerel is a migratory fish; while in one or a series of years it is found in immense quantities in one part of the North Atlantic ocean and its bays, another year, or series of years, it will be found hundreds of miles away. No part of the North American continent can justly lay claim to this fishery. "In those early days, and up to about 1870, the mackerel catch was made with hook and line, as these could be used near shore. Often a considerable part of the catch was made thus. Since the introduction into general use of the purse seine, in 1870, we find nearly all of the mackerel catch has been made on the fishing ground of no nation, but on the high seas, or more than three miles from shore. Of late years mackerel, in common with other vari- eties of fish that once were found plenty near shore, are now seldom found in abundance within three miles of land, and oftener wide out, or on the more distant fishing banks. The fact remains that, while the near shore fisheries of New England and the British provinces are to a small extent valuable to the fishermen adjacent to them, they are not to others, the amount of fish there caught, compared with the aggregate catch, being insignificant, the bulk of the catch being taken on the distant fishing banks of the high seas." AMERICAN FISH BUREAU. zSg THE FISHING GROUNDS. "The fishing grounds of tlie western Atlantic are the largest and most valua- ble in the world. They quickly attracted the attention of the early explorers who visited America, and who reported to their countrymen the extraordinary wealth of the western seas. It is a well established historical fact that the colonization of North America was largely due to the interest felt in the pos- session of the fishing groimds, and for ^heir possession or retention fierce wars were waged between the French and English for upward of two centuries; and Sabine holds the opinion that the disputes and contentions which origi- nated in the struggle for obtaining exclusive rights on the fishing banks by the English colonists led ultimately to the revolutionary war and tlie birth of a new nation. "The Biscayan fishermen have a tradition that Newfoundland was visited by their countrymen prior to the time of Columbus, but this storv is improba- ble. The French fishermen were, however, the pioneers in the cod-fisheries of the western Atlantic, and it is fairly certain that as early as 1504 the Nor- mans and Biscayans knew of the Newfoundland fisheries. Within 25 years of the discovery of America by Columbus the crews of fifty ships, Basque, Norman, Spanish and Portuguese, were plying their lines on the great banks of Newfoundland — more than 300 years ago. In 1577, the French had em- ployed not less than 150 vessels in the American fisheries, and w-e are told that ' the}' prosecuted the business with great vigor and success.' From that time to the present the fishing banks of the western Atlantic have been vis- ited by fleets of varying magnitude, and they have proved an unexampled storehouse of wealth in supph'ing innumerable millions with food. " These banks, of which we have so hastily and imperfectly sketched the early history, constitute a chain of submerged ocean plateaus elevated consid- erably above the surrounding sea bottom, and extending from Cape Cod to and including the Flemish Cap, of wliich they have an unquestioned right. Or, if we include the south shore of Nova Scotia off the eastern coast of New- foundland. While there are cod fishing grounds of some importance nearer the land, both off the coasts of the United States and the British provinces, these ocean banks generally are at considerable distance from the land, and therefore free from any national jurisdiction. They are the natural and favorite resort of the cod and halibut, and, as previously stated, constitute the richest and most unfailing resort for fishermen which is known to exist. LOCATIOx\ OF FISHING GROUNDS. " According to the United States fish commission, the area of the off-shore banks, exclusive of the fishing grounds off Greenland and Iceland, is 73,123 square geographical miles, all of which, being on the high seas, are under the control of no nation, and free to all. " Capt. J. W. Collins of the United States fish commission, in an article lately published in the Centurj-, gives the area and location of the mackerel fishing grounds as follows: " ' According to a report on fishing grounds of North America, prepared bv the United States fish commission, the total area of the mackerel fishing 2go GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. grounds off the eastern coast of the United vStates is 56,000 square geograph- ical miles. Here, in our own waters, the most extensive and valuable mack- ei-el fishery of the world is carried on. In addition to this, our fishermen have the right to fish in the waters of the gulf of St. Lawrence, outside the three-mile limit; and thus is opened to them an additional area of 15,200 square miles, making a total of more than 70,000 square miles over which they have an unquestioned right to prosecute their operations. Now, if we estimate the inshore waters frequented by our fishermen in pursuit of mack- erel, we will be able to get an idea of their relative importance-, always sup- posing that the fishery can be prosecuted as well inshore as it can off, which is not the fact, as will be shown hereafter. The north shore of Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton are the localities in the inshore British waters which are now chiefly visited by American vessels in pursuit of mackerel. The total area of inshore waters in these regions commonly resorted to by Ameri- can fishermen does not much exceed 775 square miles (if we follow the coast line), or about i per cent, of the area of the mackerel fishing grounds to and Cape Breton, the east side of Cape Breton and what is known as the " West Shore" — from Point Escumenac to Point Miscou — in the Gulf of St. Law- rence, we shall have a total area of 2064 square miles. But a simple state- ment of the area of these inshore waters over which alone England has any control can convey little idea of their value. The mackerel fishery is now exclusively prosecuted with the great purse seine instead of by hook and line, which were formerly used. Therefore, the larger portion of this inshore area of water being too shallow and the bottom too rough to admit of the success- ful manipulation of the fishing apparatus, it is comparatively seldom that anv fish are caught near the land. On the southern coast of Nova Scotia few fish are taken by American vessels, and these only during their migratory period. Thus it will be seen that the available area inside the limit is exceedingly small. " 'Then, too, the change in the method of fishing has, in recent years, led to the almost practical abandonment of the mackerel fishery in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Occasionally a considerable fleet enters the gulf; but since the results have generally been unsatisfactory there have been seasons when only a very few vessels went there. It is true, perhaps, that the mackerel being a remarkably erratic species, its movements cannot be predicted from year to year with any absolute certainty. " ' The results obtained in the past ten years, since the universal employ- ment of the purse seine, may serve, however, as a fair basis in judging of the future. It is an historical fact, now well established by the most accurate and careful investigation and inquiry, that the catch of mackerel in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, not to speak of the inshore waters under British control, has been of comparative insignificance during the last decade. And even under the most favorable conditions, when the catch there has been exceptionally large, as in 1885, the total product of the Gulf mackerel fishery did not amount to more than 8 per cent, of the entire catch of the New England fleet. Of this, less than one-third was taken inside of the three-mile limit.'" AMERICAN FISH BUREAU. 2gi WEIRS AND TRAPS. " Yearly this branch of the fisheries grows in size, importance and value. In view of international complications, it is of especial service in furnishing plenty of bait to the New England fishermen. This they have been amply able to do during eight months of the past season that they have been worked. This fact should be borne in mind by the enemies of the weirs and traps, that annoy and threaten their business, if not their extermination, through legislative action. Weirs are put down in Narragansett bay as early as May, and fished up to the ist of November; 70 of them, located in Rhode Island, report their catch the past season as follows: 18,000 barrels scup. 3iOoo barrels sea bass. 2,500 barrels butter-fish. 200 barrels flat-fish. 1,500 barrels tautog. 1,400 barrels mackerel. "At times the weirs were full of scfuid, often thousands of barrels that were turned loose for want of customers. " The weirs of Cape Cod, from their nearness to the fishing grounds as well as the home port, are chiefly resorted to by the fishermen. They are put down in April and taken up in December. The past season the catch of her- ring was not up to the average, but was large in squid from June 20 up to Sept. r. A large proportion of the catch of squid was turned loose from want of bu^'ers. Aside from bait, the weirs take more or less cod, pollock, floun- ders, blue-fish and mackerel ; the catch of the latter is usually from Mav 25 to July 30, and from Oct. i to Dec. 10, with a less amount between those dates. Advices from along the coast as far as Southwest Harbor, Me., report an abundance of herring all the season. After furnishing the fishermen and packers, thousands of barrels were turned loose from want of buyers. " Connecticut has heretofore been neglected in the annual returns of the Nev? England fisheries. In past years it could make a large showing in the cod, mackerel, whale and seal fisheries. Of late j'ears the productions have been largely represented by the oyster and menhaden fisheries. New London has for many years been largely interested in the food fisheries, hav- ing in 1854, 124 sail in the cod fishery; in 18S6, 42 vessels in cod and other fisheries, two in mackerel, and six steamers in the menhaden fishery. Thirty- four sail of good sized vessels were engaged in the cod and halibut catch on George's banks and off Nantucket shoals, nearly all of them being welled smacks, taking their catch to the New York market alive; there it is trans- ferred to cars located in the docks at the fish markets, and sold to the pur- chaser fresh as he pleases, alive or dead. The catch of the New London fleet the past season aggregated as follows: 1,086,010 pounds - - - Codfish. 367,600 pounds -----..... Bluefish. 59,600 pounds ---------- Swordfish. 268,950 pounds ---.-..... Halibut. 116,750 pounds Sea bass. 12,100 pounds ..-..-.-. Flounders. 700 pounds ----- : - . . Striped bass. 12,500 pounds --.--.-.- Red snappers. 17,750 pounds .---.----. Tautog. 275 barrels - Mackerel. 2g2 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. IMPORTANCE OF THE FISHERIES. "Probably no industry, with equal capital, gives employment to and sup- ports so many persons as the fisheries. The last official returns for the United States are as follows: Number of vessels, 6605; tonnage, 208,297.82; persons employed, 131,426; capital invested, $37,955,349- The New England states make the following report for the past year: Vessels engaged in all branches of the fisheries, including oyster and whaling, 1956; tonnage, 115,130, men employed, 17,996. Whale Cod Mackerel Year ending fisheries. fisheries fisheries. Total June 30. Tons. Tons. Tons. Tons. i860 166,841 136,653 26, 1 1 1 329,605 '61 145,734 137,846 54,795 338,375 '62 117.714 133,601 80,596 331,911 '63 99,228 177,290 51,019 267,537 '64 95,145 103,742 55,499 254,386 '65* 90,516 65,185 41,209 196,910 '661^ ioi;,i7o 51,642 46,589 203,401 '62 52,384 71,343 44,567 31,498 1 28,449 '68 83,887 155,230 '69 70,202 62,704 132,906 '70 67,954 91,460 159,414 '71 61,490 92,865 154,355 '72 51,608 97,5-15 149,155 '73 44,755 109,519 154,274 '74 39,108 78,290 117,398 '75 38,229 80,207 118,436 '76 39,116 87,802 126,918 '77 40,593 91,085 131,678 '78 39,700 86,547 126,247 '79 40,028 79,885 119,913 '80 38,408 77,538 115,946 '&i 38,551 76,137 114,688 '82 32,802 77,863 110,665 '83 32,414 95,038 127,452 '84 27,249 82.940 110,189 '85 25,184 82,565 107,749 * The tonnage for 1865 and 1866 is partly by new measurement and partly by old. Note. — The mackerel licenses have not been issued separately since 1867, when a general fishing license was provided to replace cod and mackerel fisheries. THE WHALE FISHERIES. "The total number of vessels of all classes engaged in the business is 121, of which 19 hail from San Francisco, and all are engaged in right whaling. The decrease of tonnage during last year was 827 tons. The present tonnage of the entire fleet is 28,291, of which 6,500 tons are now in eastern ports, and over one-third is offered of this tonnage for sale. The North Pacific fleet comprised 38 vessels. The total catch yielded about 20,000 barrels of oil and 309,000 pounds of whalebone. The Arctic fleet took 153 whales, as against 222, in 1885. The season was an unprofitable one. Imports for 1886 were: AMERICAN FISH BUREAU. zgj Sperm oil, 23,312 barrels; whale oil, 27,249 barrels; whalebone, 352,590 pounds. Exports were: Sperm oil, 3,iiS barrels; whale oil, 18,253 barrels; whalebone, 184,511 pounds. Stock in the United States Jan. i, 18S7: Sperm oil, i8,2io barrels; whale oil, 9,270 barrels; whalebone, 322,900 pounds. The average price of whale oil during the year was 33 cents; sperm oil, 74^ cents; whalebone, $2.73. These statistics are from the 43d annual review of the whale fishery of the United States, published bj the Whalemen's Shipping List of New Bedford." MENHADEN FISHERIES. " Several persons claim to be first in producing oil from this little fish, but the most reliable report sajs: 'About the year 1850, Mrs. John Bartlett of Blue Hill, Maine, while boiling some fish for her chickens, noticed a thin scum of oil upon the surface of the water. Some of this she bottled, and, when on a visit to Boston soon after, carried samples to Mr. E. B. Phillips, one of the leading oil merchants of that city, who encouraged her to bring more. The following year the Bartlett family industriously plied their gill nets and sent to market 13 barrels of oil, receiving $11 per barrel, or $143 for same. Mr. Phillips gave them encouragement, furnishing nets and large kettles, which were set up out of doors in brick frames for trying out the fish. Thinking that much oil was thrown away with the scrap, the idea of pressing the refuse was suggested. This was at first accomplished by pressing it in a common iron kettle, with a heavy cover and a long beam for a lever; after- ward, by placing it under the weights of heavy rocks, in barrels and tubs per- forated with auger holes.' " From such a beginning, and with varying fortune, has the business grown that now represents between $1,000,000 and $2,000,000 of capital, emploj'ing nearly 100 steamers and thousands of men. The report for 1884 and 1885 is as follows: Number of factories in operation Men employed _ - . . Sailing vessels . . . . . Steamers ..... Fish caught ..... Gallons oil made ..... Tons dried scrap made Tons crude scrap made - Average yield oil per 1000 fish - Capital invested . . . . " The aggregate annual catch ranges from 1,750,000 to 2,250,000 barrels of fish. " Menhaden continue to draw the northern line of migration at Cape Cod, seldom being found north of there. The large importation from France and England, at a very low duty, of de-gras, which is said to be a much inferior substitute for oil, and nitrate of soda froin South America as a substitute for fish guano, is seriously injuring this valuable home industry. 37 IS85. 1884. 50 52 2,064 2,114 84 157 7S 59 479,214,415 858,592,691 2,346,319 3,722,927 33,914 58,438 7>^25 10,430 4Xgls- ^% gls- $1,314,500 $1,534,756 OLD MONHEGAN. SPECIAL CORRESPONDENCE OF BOSTON HERALD. MoNHEGAN Plantation, Me., Aug. 31, 1886. The topography of the coast of Maine is unique. You can sail into a new world every day, for the course of the indented shores covers 2500 miles, which a direct line would limit to less than 300. And the long reaches of white sand beaches, which gleam and glitter in the sunlight every- where in the United States, are almost never seen on the Maine coast, especially about the islands. Here we find great sloping shelves of rock worn smooth by centuries of surf irritation; craggy, broken ledges, caverned and seamed, and always sounding with rebutting rush the dirge of an eternal element; or huge bowlders and outlying rocks, rearing like guards against incoming waters. The islands scattered along the shores number hundreds. Old Monhegan stands sentinel over all, the first sighted as the coast is approached. It has been fittingly called the " Key- stone of New England." Many miles from the main, it looms from the dark ocean a mighty granite cliff, where the sea fogs pitch their tents and mists complete the isola- tion. You are as much upon the ocean as if upon a ship, barring the tossing. You can live here almost as exclu- sively as if upon another planet. The deep, compressing waters, heaving as from the beginning "since first the OLD MONHEGAN. sgs spirit of God moved upon the face of the waters," with the glowing, tonic atmosphere and influence, exulting and saturating the sober senses, envelope the busy thoughts of cosmopolitan conflicts with the indefinite mood of a far dis- tant and troublesome dream. Here the sojourner finds nothing whatever resembling the typical summer resort. The novelty, strange leisure and sweet enjoyment at such a remote corner — though ambition would not long covet it — give the simple fact of living much of grateful content, and the restfulness is profound. We wake to the freshness ,of each sunny morn with the feeling that it is made for the first time. With the whole Atlantic murmuring in our ears, we fall asleep letting all sombre cares slip beneath the mighty waves and beyond the obscuring horizon. And we recognize the benediction of that eternal harmony as never remembered within the contrasting world of bricks. Where is Monhegan? Take a map of the Maine coast and look for the outermost island, and twenty miles southeast also of Pemiquid, the island is noted. From the beginning of New England history, and before the prilgrims had landed at Plymouth, the island had become a noted fishing station, and was the seat of the first fishery in Maine, and the home of fishermen. Capt. John Smith was the pioneer, and in his correspondence devoted many pages in discussing the methods by which the fisheries should be carried on. His vessel in 1614 took 47,000 fish. He was shrewd and valued his spoils. " And is it not pretty sport," he wrote, " to haul up twopence, sixpence and twelvepence, as fast as you can hale and veare a line? He is a bad fisher who cannot kill in one day with his hooke and line, 100, 200, or 300 cods." It was from Monhegan came the sachem Samoset to Plymouth, March 16, 162 1, with his welcome, having learned some broken English from the colonists at Pemiquid and Monhegan. And a year later, it was to Monhegan that Edward Winslow went for provisions, sure of succor, for his starving band of exiles. The fishermen zgt GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. would not sell, as their own supply was limited, but gave sufficient to relieve the sufferings at Plymouth. So it has always been the QUAINT AND PICTURESQUE HOME to all " they that go down to the sea in ships " and " that do business in great waters!" But its importance has been of trifling interest to those who live within the cities. Eight years ago Mrs. Albee began taking a few boarders — wan- dering artists* generally — but this year fifty or more have sought the extreme quiet and coolness, while excursions from the main coast have been frequent. The only route is, at Bath to board one of the Eastern Steamboat Com- pany's boats which connects the Kennebec with the islands and Boothbay. At Boothbay the mail boat, "Goldsmith Maid," Capt. Humphrey, leaves every Tuesday and Sat- urday noon, and, if the day be fair and the sea pleasant, a few hours' swift sailing will carry one to the desired haven. You may be seasick, but what of that? We start fairly, passing the summer resorts " Ocean Point " and "Squirrel Island" as we round out of the harbor, out be- yond Ram and Fisherman's islands, then crossing Lenni- ken's bay, running between its islands at the mouth. We sail on by the Damariscotta river and East Bristol, noting with our glass a new resort just opened at Inner Heron island — but rechristened Summer Christmas Isle — and thence by old Pemiquid — the site of ancient Jamestown and rival of Boston — with its old forts and lighthouse. Beyond Muscongus bay we veer out to seaward. On the eastern side of Pemiquid Point we note the little village of New Harbor (formerly old Popham fort,) which was discovered and settled by Champlain in 1604, with 100 French Royalists. Under Des Monts, it became an elab- orate colonial French plantation, and held this part of America by right of France. In 1610 possession was transferred to Fort Popham, now Hunnewell's point, at the mouth of the Kennebec river. Northeast of old Popham OLD MONHEGAN. zgj and Pemiquid is Muscongus, or Loud's Island, where was Samoset's royal wigwam and burial place. At the north- ern extremity are many Indian graves, and at every turn of the sods their relics are unearthed. Our hostess, Mrs. Albee, tells us that her great great grandfather Loud, an Englishman, once possessed the' whole island, purchased from the Indians. They considered him a god, as he was of immense size and strength and his voice could be heard a long distance. He is buried on the island, which his sons inherited and afterward sold to many others. As our boat left the island and swept seaward, we curiously watched the approach to the huge mountain of dark rock lying on the ocean beyond, tacking at last into a little har- bor between another mountain of stone (Manan) and Mon- hegan. The harbor, long and narrow and ten fathoms deep, was filled with a hundred boats, dories, punks, yachts, sailboats and fishing schooners. A boat is the vehicle of the islanders. A pony was brought upon the island some 3^ears ago, but he soon died of loneliness and laziness. A few cows are kept, many sheep, some poultry and one pair of oxen to truck the seine and luggage from the shore. Monhegan has a troubled history. It was discovered in 1605 by Champlain and Sir George Weymouth. The first distinct mention of it is in Rosier's journal of Weymouth's voyage, wherein he says that the island was sighted May 17: "because it blew a great gale of wind, the sea was very high, and near night, not fit to come upon an unknown coast, we stood off till two o'clock in the morn- ing, being Saturday." But the island they thought " the most fortunate ever yet discovered." Here they found the fish so plentiful and great, that " one of the mates, with two hooks at a lead, at five draughts together hauled up ten fishes, all were generally very great, some they meas- ured to be five feet long and three feet about." Cham- plain called the island "La Nef," to signify the appearance of a ship, but it has more the look of a black whale. 2g8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Capt. Weymouth, on landing, named it " St. George " and set up a cross as the symbol of Christian possession. But the St. George title has drifted to the adjacent islands and river and La Nef is a forgotten name. In 1614 Capt. John Smith with two English ships took possession. Build- ing boats, he ranged the whole coast to Cape Cod making fresh discoveries and trading with the Sagamore chief Nahanada, who was reigning when Popham and Gilbert came in 1607. Capt. Smith prepared a map, to which he applied the name of New England, and presented it to Prince Charles. On Monhegan he made a garden, as he says, "upon the top of a Rockie He in 43^, 4 leagues from the main, in May, that grew so well, as it served us for sallets (salads) in June and July." The description of "Monhegan" (a corruption of the aboriginal Menahan, "an island,") is as accurate now as then, exhibiting "the remarkablest isles and mountains for landmarks," "a high round isle," with the "little Monas" by its side, "betwixt which is a small harbor, where their ship was anchored," says Smith. The first owner of Monhegan was an Eng- lish merchant, Abraham Jennings, who bought it of the Plymouth council in 1622. He sold it in 1626 to Messrs. Elbridge and Aldworth for £50. They also bought Pemi- quid, which they named " Bristol " after their English town, a title it still retains. The council granted the title on condition "that they have and will transport, at their own costs and charges, divers persons into New England, and there erect and build a town and settle inhabitants." Mr. Abraham Shurt, a Justice of the Peace at Pemiquid, made out the bill of exchange for Monhegan, the first transaction of the kind known in our commercial history. This Justice also wit- nessed the first deed of land given in America by an Indian to a white man, the deed given by Samoset and his brother sachem Unongoit, of the country around Pemiquid, July 25, 1625, to John Brown. Justice Shurt is thus pleas- OLD MONHEGAN. 2gg antly remembered by Bowditch in his novel volume of "Suffolk Surnames:" TO THE MEMORY OF A. SHURT, " THE FATHER OF AMERICAN CONVEYANCING," WHOSE NAME IS ASSOCIATED ALIKE WITH MY DAILY TOILET AND MY DAILY OCCUPATION. It was at Monhegan that the first sermon in English on this continent was preached Aug. 9, 1607, by Rev. Rich- ard Seymour. He was chaplain of the Popham colony that settled at the mouth of the Kennebec river. It was a thanksgiving service, when the crews of the vessels the Gift of God and the Mary and John, who had got sepa- rated, met at the island where they landed, "gyving God thanks for a happy metinge and saffe aryvall into the country." It was by the breaking out of King Phillip's war that the island was depopulated. The ruins of a few old cellars still remain, and the present settlers often exca- vate such relics as quaint Dutch spoons, pipes, firearms, iron kettles and other utensils which have lain for 200 years. An old watch and spoon is deposited with the Maine Historical Society. Indian relics are abundant, yet not one colonist has a vital remembrance. At one neg- lected part of the island are a number of grave-like depressions, which are supposed to contain their bones. At another point are TRACES OF THEIR *SALT WORKS, for they made their own salt to cure fish. Two well known New York girls, who are here sketching, are to-day zealously digging over an old cellar, an occasional relic of iron, old bricks and cinders coming to the surface. In the earlier days of Monhegan it was the scene of a cruel massacre. While the men were away fishing, the Indians descended upon the place, murdering the women and children, pillaging and burning ev^erywhere. The burnt wood that is so often dug from the old cellars is regarded 300 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. as remains of the dreadful pillage. (It is said that the Indian's exclamation, "Man-he-gone," when telling of the massacre, is the corruption of "Monhegan.") Previous to the revolution the island was repeopled. In 1774 Mr. Trefethern of Portsmouth bought the land for $1000 of a Mr. Rogers. Then a Mr. Jennings put in a claim of $1000, which was paid, and in 1807 another claim of $1000 from the government was made, because of a defect in the title. The island was divided between Mr. Trefethern's son Henry and two sons-in-law, Thomas Orne and Josiah Starling. These had large families and many of their descendants still reside here. In 1880 the island polled 39 votes with 133 population, and was taxed for $10,305 (the rate of taxation is 25^ per cent). In 1870 it polled 42, and was valued at $24,345. The decline of the fisheries of late years and consequent decrease of popula- tion, with a total relinquishment of farming operations, has evidently depressed the valuation. Moreover, the song of the "Three Fishers" has been of such frequent recital, off the Georges and bevond, that the young men, and even the older, are finding in the industries of the main a safer song of profit. The island, of about 1000 acres, now contains 30 cottages, with a number of dilapidated fish-houses, a school-house for twenty to thirty pupils, two small stores and a little chapel. In 1880' Mr. McClary, of Philadelphia, learning that the plantation was without a church, gave $600 for that purpose, under condition that $200 more should come from the inhabitants. The church was deeded to the Methodist conference. As the Adventists mostly control the religious fervor, they would not help maintain it, so after a struggle of six years the chapel and land has been deeded to the island as the "Union Chapel," and they all worship together. Of course, having no funds they have no pastor. Here is the divine chance for the sacrificing Christian minister who does not care to "lay up treasures on earth." I am always impressed by the simple OLD MOXHEGAN. 301 Sunday service led by Fisherman Davis, and the tiny Sabbath school conducted by Mrs. Stevens, who is also postmistress. They are without singing books and a library, and need much assistance that the outside world can abundantly furnish. The little dwelHngs are dropped anywhere, only suiting the convenience of being near the harbor and the lines of rocks on which are spread the drying fish, while the larger and woodv portion beyond the lighthouse is unsettled. One ston}-, grassy lane (like that which all remember leads from "grandfather's" pastures to road or barn) twists about among the buildings, sometimes sending off a footpath toward the straggling cots out among the hillocks. The zig-zag fences and capsized stone walls were once built to keep the wandering cows from the little gardens, where the flowers are of unusual beaut}^ and brilliancy, acquired from the salty atmosphere. All the simple characteristics of very humble living, are visible. When the men are not abroad fishing or making prepara- tions, thev idly lie about the fish houses and upon the sand, watching the wind and waves. At the slightest ripple indicating the erratic mackerel or other fish, they are on the alert. The}' are utterly unable, or, perhaps, unwilling to undertake any other occupation, and the little hamlet wears a COMICAL ASPECT OF NEGLECT. But the houses within are exquisitely neat, for the women love their homes, and are seeminfrlv contented and cheer- ful. Several who have been here from 25 to 30 years tell me that when they visit the main land they are always homesick to return. Mackerel, cusk, haddock, pollock, cod, hake, herring and lobster are caught, and the return of a fishing schooner with yawls piled to the brim with shin- ing fish is a wonderous sight to our unaccustomed eves. Think of an hundred barrels at one catch! As soon as the boats touch the shore every man is in readiness, for the fish must be salted down without delay. With a keen J02 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. knife, several men deftly slit down the backs, throwing them upon a large wooden waiter, each man cutting about seventy a minute. Then they are seized by other hurried men, who, with mittened hands tear them open, "gutting" out the entrails and throwing them into a huge tub of bloody water, from which they are taken by other men and salted down into barrels. These men all carry the weather-beaten, practical, shrewd, humorous manners, char- acterizing the born native of the seafaring place, and they understand at once the curiosity of an outsider. Try to guy a fisherman and before you are aware you have been the dupe. To "go trawling" is another exciting work to us. Each half-mile of coil is baited with 500 hooks, and as they are drawn in over one side of the boat and the fish taken off they are again baited and thrown over the other side. Several miles of hooks are thus operated upon at one time. But we summer visitors only see from the surface, as the boats go out upon the sea under summer skies of pleasant sunshine and placid waters. So it is difficult to believe in the terrible gales and raging waves, concerning which the risky fishermen can relate almost incredible incidents of terror, suffering and loss. It is a fearful branch of industry. The little they gain is dearly earned from the pitiless sea. Small wonder is it that the fisheries were considered in colonial days so important that, before peace was secured from the mother country, Massa- chusetts would have no treaty until the fishing grounds were secured to the United States. The fishermen were among the class of persons exempt from the performance of military duty. I know now why the old carved cod-fish was hung in the Boston State House — not as a choice work of art, but to memorialize the determined spirit of our predecessors, that the future generations may be duly grateful. Let us cherish the revolutionary record! Monhe- gan's prosperity will be lightsome this year. The "hard times" have even reached this obscurity and made times OLD MONHEGAN. 303 harder. Nearly 6000 quintals of fish are waiting for a market, and the fisherman counts his profits in vain. As the pogies suddenly disappeared in 1879, ^° ^^^ summer the mackerel have departed. But few barrels have been taken, and conjecture is without answer. Until three years ago Monhegan was without a post- office. The mail, which would accumulate at Herring Gut — now Port Clyde — on George's Island, would be brought over by some chance fisherman and distributed at the wharf. They were often without communication with the main land for weeks. Think of going two months or more without a newspaper or letter! Through the exertions of Congressman Dingley a mail was allowed twice a week from Boothbay. Few people can realize the hardships Capt. Humphrey endures in carrying the mail between Monhegan and Boothbay every Tuesday and Saturday — forty miles' sailing — for which he is paid $262 per year. During our stay here we have several times gladly watched the mail boat depart, and impatiently waited two days for its return. One Tuesday last winter, with the thermome- ter 15'^ below zero, and the vapor so thick that it was impossible to see, the captain started. The boat had pro- ceeded nearly half-way to Boothbay, when in reefing the mainsail, the man with him was knocked into the water, and rescued with the utmost difficulty, making it necessary to return to port. Wednesday, with the mercury and vapor the same, he again attempted to reach Boothbay, when his bowsprit and jib were torn away by the gale. Thursday his mainsail torn to tatters, and he tossed about help- lessly. Friday, while proceeding, he was knocked down by the sea, and the boat nearly filled and swamped with water. Saturday he arrived at Boothbay, having hired another boat to take him there. On the highest elevation of Monhegan stands a cheerful sentinel, the granite lighthouse, over 200 feet above the sea level. It is a revolving light, a Lepante, the same as manufac- jo^ GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. tured for the coast of France. It is called the " record order " of light, having three concentric wicks, with eight bull's eyes, and twelve open prisms above and five below\ Some 800 gallons of kerosene per 3'ear are required. Between the flashes the time elapsing is one minute, and they are seen 19 nautical miles. From the cupola we have a mag- nificent view of the coast of Maine, from Penobscot bay on the east to Casco bay on the west. The Camden moun- tains back the northeast horizon, and we see Vinalhaven, the Georges islands, Pemiquid, Seguin, the mouths of the Georges, Damariscotta, Sheepscot and Kennebec rivers, and all the prominent coast landmarks. On the ocean side the sea is dotted with white sails laden with the freights of commerce. An evening pasttime is to watch from the rocks the phosphorescent waves breaking against the craggy shore, while above us, the flashes, trailing like comets far from the bright pinnacle, twirl slowly about the island, as if seeking us. This light was established in 1825 and re- built in 1851. In 1861 Mr. Humphrey, of Bristol, was appointed light keeper. Two years after, he died, and his wife was appointed in his place, which she filled with per- fect satisfaction to the government inspectors until her death in 18S0. At present William Stanley is in charge, and Mrs. Humphrey's son Frederick is assistant. On neighboring Manana is stationed a steam fog trumpet and a sonorous bell, which often in the night wakes us to the remembrance of others upon the deep. A few years ago an attempt was made to put telegraphic communication between the lighthouse and fog trumpet. The wires were passed to Smutty Nose, a large black rock in Small Har- bor, and thence to Manana. After several trials and a waste of $1000 the unfaithful wires were abandoned. Mr. C. C. WiUiams, who assumed his father's place, deceased four years ago, is keeper, with his young brother as assistant. Here they dwell on the rocky eminence of 33 acres, where a few sheep exist, 100 feet above the sea. OLD MONHEGAN. 305 with the faithful mother keeping their society. Here she has dwelt for nine years. On Manana we were shown the hieroglyphic characters on the rocks, which some antiqua- rians maintain to be the mysterious writings of the North- men visiting the Maine coast about the year 990. As the" " prehistoric " inscriptions are apparent in many places along the battered coast of Maine, our prosaic mind inter- pret only the action of frosts and storms. The wisdom of the savants is too far fetched for us. In a depression just below the lighthouse is the inevitable " God's Acre." Here are headstones, moss-grown and weather-beaten, and the quaint epitaphs which we find in all old graveyards. The oldest incription reads " Phebe Starling, died March 4, 1784," that of a little girl who died of "canker rash," and she was buried by the crew of a coasting vessel, which came ashore to perform the service for the parents. The natural attractions of this island are wonderful, far sur- passing those of Mt. Desert. When the steamers can be induced to touch at Monhegan then it will become a resort of much interest. Some of the old people are against an influx of different fish to fry, and refuse to encourage the building of a proper wharf. The high sea walls, almost rimming the island, will make necessary a breakwater, and the expenditure of several hundred thousand dollars as a simple beginning. The whole southern side of the island are sheer cliffs, called Whitehead and Blackhead, of 150 to 200 feet. Grand indeed is the view — impressive as the desolation of death! The isolation, the surging immensity so far below, in front and all about — deep green beneath, deep blue above — arouses a weird, shuddering awe, which remains with us for days. At another cliff, where the sea has beaten out a cave, many years ago a large amount of rock was exploded out to secure Capt Kidd's treasure. The legend relates that the treasure was reached, and they were about to lift a singular iron chest, when one spoke and the treasure vanished. One dear woman assures me 3ob GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. that "lots of money is buried on this island," and many others believe it. The proverb runs : " Dig six feet, and you'll find iron; dig six feet more, and you'll find money," Susie V. THE GULF FISHERIES. FOR the last few years we have heard considerable about Snapperfishing, and going out to Pensacola, and so forth; and feeling that some would like to know something more about it we assume the task. Every winter there are a number of vessels fitted out at Pensacola and Mobile to engage in snapper-fishing, run- ning their fish fresh on ice to Pensacola. Some northern men, knowing this, fitted out vessels at Portland, Me., Cohasset, Mass., Provincetown, Mass., and New London, Conn., tak- ing single dories, and crews ranging from ten to seventeen men, and went south to make money and get clear of the cold weather. The result was, that fish fell in price from five to three cents per pound; and the price of ice has risen to seven dollars per ton. Owing to this, and finding that although not so cold as it was at home, the wind could blow just as hard and raise a worse sea, and that they could be sure of a gale of wind at least once a week, the Northern vessels have dropped off, until this winter there are only two out here, and they are not doing extra well. Let us take a trip together in the "Paul and Essie" with Captain Benson, a real old veteran: Leaving the wharf at Pensacola in the afternoon, we drop down to the Navy Yard at Warrington, where we 3o8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. come to anchor and remain all night, the wind being light and dead ahead from -the southeast with a little rain. At daylight in the morning all hands are roused out and find a fine breeze from the northwest, so it is up anchor, make sail, and away we go over the bar with a fair wind, bound down to Middle Ground, a bank about two hundred miles east southeast from Pensacola. The " Paul and Essie " being a good sailer, we find ourselves in eighteen fathoms of water, with rough coral bottom, in twenty-four hours time, when we at once proceed to try for fish. Every man has his lines and tub of bait ready, and the two top dories all in the slings ready for starting over the side at the first sign of fish. A man is stationed at the main rigging with heaving lead and line with baited hook attached, and he keeps that going all the time, throwing the lead as much as twenty fathoms ahead of the vessel at each throw, until he gets a fish; then out goes one dory and the rest try their lines over the side (the boat being hove-to), and if fish are found plentiful the rest of the dories are sent out, and the vessel jogs round them until it is time to come aboard for dinner. The fish are thrown down in the hold out of the sun ■ — ■ four hundred being a good morning's catch — and, it becoming calm, the vessel is anchored. After dinner the dories go out again, each man going where he thinks best and not coming aboard until he gets a load or dark- ness drives him. The fish are then iced, the anchor watch set and we turn in pretty well tired out. The next day, it is rough, all hands fish from the rail, until we lose the fish, when we heave up and fish to a drift until we strike them " solid," when we anchor. So it goes on until the barometer falling, and rain clouds making up in the south- east, warn us that we must take advantage of the wind to get on before the dreaded " Norther," which invariably fol- lows rain, comes on. We make all sail and let her go for home, getting in safely before the gale, take out our fish GULF FISHERIES. 309 and lie snugly at the wharf while it blows outside. Per- haps we are not so fortunate, and the Norther catches us before we get in, so we heave to under double reefed fore- sail and make the best of it, which is bad enough. Besides snappers, we catch yellow and black gropers, also Jew fish, which weigh sometimes as much as four hundred pounds. We also catch water-snakes, or eels, with a head and bill like a bird, colored black with small white spots all over it. Another fish we catch, which makes the best bait and is also the best eating, the porgie; it is not like the northern porgie, but nearly twice as large, tail forked, nose like a parrot's beak and very pret- tilv colored; body silver gray, tinged with purple and hned with orange toward the head and tail. Mullet and blue fish are obtained in great quantities round the shore by drag seines, not our northern blue-fish, however. These last named fish can be split and salted, keeping fully as well in pickle as mackerel. There is, also, a small silver- colored fish called Lady-fish. The principal fishing ground lies about seventy-five miles southeast by east from Cape San Bias, in N. Lat. 28 deg. 24 min., West Lon. 84 deg. (14:20.) and consists of coral ridges with about fifteen fathoms on them, sand and mud between, with about twenty-five fathoms. The fish are on these ridges and are caught on hartd- lines, the bottom being so rough as to render trawling impracticable. A drift about east northeast from this gives fair fishing, with about twenty-one fathoms sand and coral. There is another good spot about forty miles southwest by west from San Bias in N. Lat. 29 deg. (i5:35) W. Lon. 85 deg. (35:50) with from twenty-four to thirty fathoms mixed bottom. There are other places, but not so good and are uncertain. A man makes a great mistake when he comes out here expecting to have a fine, easy time, and a little fortune in the winter. The months of December and January, espe- 3IO GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. cially, are rough and boisterous, not to say cold, but we have had over half an inch of ice on deck already this winter and one snow storm. However, a man by attending to his business and work- ing in the right way can make wages, but I would advise any man who can make a living at all at home not to come to Pensacola snapper-fishing. Jas. M. Henderson. ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. FROM THE NEW YORK OBSERVER. SOME one has wittily said that St. John's "is the fishiest city in the world." This one may well believe when he learns that the annual value of the cod fishery products is upwards of six millions. As we enter the land-locked har- bor through the " narrows," Signal Hill, five hundred and twenty feet, on one side, and Fort Amherst Lighthouse, a hundred feet higher, on the other, we are struck with the picturesque approach to the city. Since we sighted land, for many miles we have followed an iron-bound coast, dangerous in the extreme. Giant cliffs three hundred feet high, crowned with fir, threateningly face the sea, almost a solid wall, save as an arm of the sea reaches in now and then, forming a beautiful bay, a few white cottages crouch- ing on the shore. At intervals the rock has been wrenched aparc, and in the distant darkness a white ribbon of foam is fluttering to the breakers, a cascade that pours almost perpendicularly to the ocean beneath. Farther on is a ge3^ser, which finds its force and movement in the sea, the tide sending the water up in white jet at intervals. Some of the estuaries have a charming perspective as we pass, a great rock dividing the entrance and the far-off fishing hamlet with its back ground of green. But what a face the cliff has, — grim, stern, unrelenting; like the ^12 . GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Sphinx, telling no tales of the wrecks that have gone down before its eyes! ISLAND OF NEWFOUNDLAND. As we look at the map of North America we find that a triangular shaped island, England's oldest colony, lies across the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to which it affords access at its northern and southern extremities. It is the tenth in size among the islands of the globe, 317 miles in length and 316 miles in breadth, containing 42,000 square miles. Its coast line is 2,000 square miles. Five hundred years before the days of Columbus and Cabot the Northmen dis- covered Newfoundland, as well as some portion of the main land of America. Leif, son of Eric, the Red, discov- ered what he called Helluland, which, no doubt, was New- foundland. But it was John and Sebastian Cabot, under "letters patent" from Henry VII, in 1497, who re-discov- ered the island, and brought it to the notice of the world. He was allowed by the stingy king to go at his own charges, but at last on his return was rewarded with a gratuity of £10 for discovering an island which has brought in millions for years to the English people. It was said of Sebastian Cabot, who died at eighty years, that " he gave England a continent, — and no one knows his burial place." No spot bears his name save a little island on the eastern coast of Newfoundland. The aborip;inal inhabitants of the island were Red Indians or Bceothies. They were originally, doubtless, from Canada, coming by the Straits of Belle Isle. They are supposed to have belonged to the Algonquin branch. There is now in the Museum of St. John's a human skull, the last token of a once powerful but now extinct tribe. It is said Cabot on his second voyage brought away three of the aborigines, and they were kept by the king in the palace of Westminster. They gradually melted away on the approach of civilization. In 1804 a female was taken by a fisherman, kindly treated and sent back loaded with ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. 313 presents. It was believed that she was murdered by the miscreant who was charged with her protection. In 1819 another female was taken by a party of trappers and brought to St. John's, and in 1823 three more, two of whom died, but one lived two years. There is a pathetic account of how the last traces of the aborigines were found by a party from St. John's, who, in the interest of the "Boeothick Societ}-," went in .search of them. The sum- mer and winter wigwams; a wooden building constructed for drying venison; among the bushes of the beach a large and beautiful birch canoe, twenty-two feet in length, but Httle used, yet in wreck; even a "canoe rest" with the daubs of red ochre fresh upon it. But the Indians themselves were not found, they were all gone to the Great Spirit, and their history is untold. THE FISHERIES. The fishing interests of Newfoundland are the great source of its wealth at the present time; that it has unde- veloped possibilities there can be no doubt. The interior has not been known until a comparatively recent day. The geological survey, under the oversight of scientitic and thoroughly competent men, which is now going on, has been a revelation to the residents of the coast. Farming, lumbering and mining will yet employ thousands of men, and furnish occupation and homes to multitudes of emi- grants. Here is virgin soil capable of supporting millions of people; a climate much milder than Canada in the interior. Timber is of pine, birch, ash, poplar, willow and cherry. The sea may yield its millions to the people of the coast, but w^hen the railroad opens up the island the lands will yield millions more. The cod are taken on the Grand Banks, submarine islands six hundred miles long, and along the coast. The Banks fisheries are chiefly carried on by French and Americans, Newfoundlanders fishing along the shore. It is 314 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. estimated there are taken in the aggregate annually 150,- 000,000 or 3,700,000 quintals of tish which at $4 would be $14,800,000. Thus we see this is a great industry. It has been going on for three hundred and seventy years. Cold water seas are necessary to the life of the com- mercial food fishes. They could not exist in tropical seas or in the warm waters of the Gulf Stream. The Arctic current, which washes the shores of Labrador, Newfound- land, Canada and part of the United States, is the source of this vast wealth. Not only its temperature is favorable to the development of the commercial fishes, but it brings with it the food upon which they thrive. The Arctic seas are full of living slime. This becomes the food of minute crustaceans, and they the food of larger fishes. Newfound- land has 2,000 miles of coast washed by this Arctic cur- rent, while no other country has much more than half of the amount. THE YOUNG COD. These fish do not migrate to the Arctic regions, as was once supposed. They are local in their habits and confined to a limited area. They are governed in their movements by the presence or absence of food, the spawning instinct and the temperature of the water. At the period of repro- duction they return to the place of their birth. The cod drops its spawn free into the sea at a considerable distance from the bottom. The spawn does not sink, but goes through all its stages of development, swimming free in the sea quite near the surface. The eggs are transparent, and have a specific gravity so near that of seawater that they float as stated. They hatch in about sixteen days. The young cod in its first year grows to be about a foot in length. The cod taken on the Banks are much larger and nicer than those taken along shore. About thirty of Bank cod when dried make a quintal. The cod begin to appear on the coasts of Newfoundland about June ist. They are heralded by the caplin, a beautiful little lish ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. 315 about seven inches in length, which arrives in vast multi- tudes, swarming in enormous schools. These the cod fol- low and devour. The caplin furnishes the best bait for the fisherman. Rev. Mr. Harvey, the historian of the island, to whom we are indebted for this rcsiiDic, in describing the scene when, in a calm moonlight night in June, the fish are plentiful and the waters alive with marine forms, the sil- very sides of the cod flashing in the moonbeams as they leap out of the water and dash upon their prey, remarks: — "The world of waters, it would seem, is no more free from terror, pain, torture, than the land. Surrounded by ravenous foes, watching for their assaults, flying for dear life, fishes, it may be easily conceived, form a part of the creation that groaneth and travaileth in pain." The squid follow the caplin, which furnish food for the cod and bait for the fisherman. They are caught with hook-and-line, seine, the cod-net and the bultow. When the fisherman's boat comes in with the da^'^'s catch they are flung on the " stage," a rough- covered platform, projecting over the water and supported on poles, with* an instrument called a "pew." They are then seized by the "cut-throat," who severs the attachment between the gill-covering and the belly at a stroke, and from the opening slits the abdomen. He then makes a cut on either side of the head at base of the skull. Then the "header" takes them; the liver is taken out, the head wrenched off, the viscera removed; the tongue and sounds are also taken out. The fish is then passed to the split- ter, who places it on its back and holding it open with his left hand, takes a splitting knife with his right and cuts along the left side of the backbone to the base of the tail. The fish now lies open on the table. With a sharp stroke of the knife the backbone is severed at a short distance from the extremity. Catching the end thus freed he lifts it slowly and following along its side with his knife quickly cuts it from the body. It then passes to the " Salter," is 3i6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. carefully washed and salted in piles on the floor. After remaining the proper time in salt it is carried to the "flake" to be cured. Among the industries of Newfoundland is seal fishing, which comes at a time of year when the cod-fishers are not employed, about the first of March. There are em- ployed about twent3^-five steamers carrying from 150 to 300 men each. This brings in more than a million dollars, and has amounted to more than a million and a half in some years. It is intensely exciting, but cruel, work; none but hardy and vigorous men could endure it. The salmon of Newfoundland are exceptionally fine; 20,000 pounds were exported in cans in 1881, and 3,689 tierces; they are frequently so plentiful in the season as to sell for four or five cents a pound in St. John's. They might be a source of immense income to the island if reck- lessness and ignorance had not depleted many of the rivers. " The Great American and Short-line Railway Com- pany" have applied for a charter. Their desire is to con- struct a line from the eastern coast of Newfoundland to a point near Cape Ray, thence a steam ferry to carry mails and passengers near Cape North in Cape Breton, a distance of fiftv-six miles, from which point a railway is to be built to the strait of Canso. This being crossed, the railroad system of Canada and the United States is reached. A line of swift steamers is to ply between a port on the west coast of Ireland and the Newfoundland port. Thus, it is thought, two days would be saved and a thousand miles of ocean travel. When this scheme is fulfilled, Newfoundland, a terra incognita to man}^, will be opened to the world. The Red Cross Line put on two new steamers last year, ■ — the Miranda and Portia, — iron screws, offering an elegant and well-appointed line for tourists from New York, which make the trip in forty-five hours to Halifax and from Hal- ifax in forty-eight. . ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. 31? The mining interest of the island bids fair to be of great value. It stands sixth now among copper-producing coun- tries of the globe, and yet is but just begun to be devel- oped. Among the pleasant friendships we made in St. John's was the Rev. Mr. Harvey, historian of the island, who is authority for the facts in this article. He is a scientific gentleman, widely known as a writer, and cordially remem- bered by those who have had the pleasure of his acquaint- ance. I know of no tour of eleven hundred miles which com- bines so much unique pleasure and perfect rest as the trip to this island in the North Atlantic. The frowning coast was swiftly passed by our good ship, and the Miranda was at her pier. — A Country Parson. THE SHAD RUNNING. FROM THE PHILADELPHIA TIMES. THE fisheries lie a few miles down the river from Philadelphia, where the Delaware pushes a beautiful arm into the Jersey shore. During the shad season thousands from Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, New York and, indeed, from all parts of the country, are frequently present to witness the " hauls" of the great seine and revel in shad planked in less than thirty min- utes after the gleaming beauties have been landed from the dripping nets. The tide is sweeping in and the shad are running. The gigantic seine, a mile and a quarter in length, averaging 60 feet in width, has been "shifted aboard" upon the square 12-foot stern of a 70-foot rowboat. Manned by a crew of sixteen at their 18-foot oars, and the seine made fast to a hand-end capstan by 300-fathom lines, the seine boat, often lustily cheered by the great crowds ashore, sets out to the south until the slack-line from the capstan be- comes taut, when they cast anchor and await the flood-tide signal from old Capt. Gossar from the Point Here between the crew's picturesque cabin and a two-century-old cottage, worthy a romance or a poem, stands a little hut covering a " tide clock." 40 3i8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Mouldy precedent makes this sacred ground; and, as if the fate of a nation depended upon the exact instant of action, the venerable fisherman, trem- bling with excitement, gives the signal — a white flag in a clear skj, a heave on the line from the capstan in a fog, and a red light by night. It is a fine sight as the great seine-boat now bears west towards League Island, " rak- ing " or paving off the seine over the stern roller. After one third of a mile has been traversed the seine-boat heads due north for another third of a mile, and thence east toward the landing place in front of the one hotel which has made planked shad famous throughout America. Here upon the beach the seine lines are fastened to a tremendous reel. At the moment the seine-boat casts anchor and begins paying off the seine, old Capt. Gossar and his land end crew commence hauling in the seine lines at the shore end capstan. Following this is seen a picturesque grouping of men wading waist deep in the surf and along the glistening beach, slowly dragging the great seine north along shore, with many merry " Yo-o-o — • ho-o-os!" and much melodic " chantying," so that the "haul "is really begun long before the water end has been given the great two-mile sweep which brings it in shore to its own capstan fastenings. The busy crews wear "beckets," or loops of netting over their shoulders, to which are attached doubled lines and wooden pegs. Each man scampers into the water to his middle, fastens up his "becket" by loop and peg to the rope-edge of the seine and then heaves ashore right merrily, hastening back to repeat the labor; thus keeping a sort of endless chain of man power in the haul on the seine, from which all sorts of flotsam and jetsam are taken as it comes dripping ashore. At the windlasses in the water, wherever any of these men are at labor, every one is straining his powers to the utmost, for a quick haul after seine-ends are landed is profitable. The " bag," or say about sixty fathoms of the middle of the seine, contains all the fish taken, among which are frequently found the rock and sturgeon; and as the "bag" now comes speedily ashore, the splashing and cavorting of the gleaming fish, the shouts of the crews, the increasing animation of the lookers-on and the ragged, nondescript craft hovering about from curiosity and for prey, assist in forming as interesting a scene as one could witness. Market boats are instantly brought alongside ; the shad are taken with great rapidity from the seine by hand and in scoop-nets, and inside a half hour — by which time scores of pilgrim epicures are luxuriating over their planked shad taken in that very haul — a steam tug has landed the catch at the old Dock street Market in Philadelphia. SALT WATER LINES. Some Gleanings from the Sea. A Poem, delix'ered before the Farmers' Club, at Andover, Alass., Feb. "jth., iSSj, by Joseph W. Smith. Poets, the proverb says, are bom, not made, And I 'm convinced the poet's not my trade, Whether by birth or making— neither one— And you may deem it strangest 'neath the sun That I am here, all bubbling- o'er with rhyme. To add my quota to your festive time. But many queer things happen now-a-days. And we are found in most incongruous ways ; Round posts are placed in holes exactly square, The square posts in the round, seen everywhere. And we are forced, despite our do or say. In untoward positions day by day. We have been told that the surrounding hills Pour out some product in exuberant rills, Which we believe or not— no matter which — But likely not until we prove it " sich." Fair Arlington may yield its milky tide. And Ipswich cider burst the hill's green side. Old Medford from its hidden 8i)rings may flow, And Andover has mighty springs to show, Where deep philosophy runs forth in streams. And other springs, perhaps, the fancy deems, And, without anj' incubating pains That torture bards with offspring of their brains. May it not be that I have tapped some spring And filled my inkstand with the song I sing. Pouring my strains for your uncertain ken. And shed my lay as if I were a hen f From Topics of an agricultural turn, —Embracing everything from plow to churn- Big crops, big steers, big porkers and big schemes With which the farmer's conversation teems, — ( Teaming with power more great than hath an ox. That all endeavor to surpass it "knocks,")— I leave the field and seaward turn my face. Upon whose ample breast I take my place. J20 GLEAIV/NGS FROM THE SEA. And g-uide my ijlough, with fiuTows Xowa and deep. Along- the waves, majestic in their sweep. Wider and grander their extended charms Than all the compass of your landed farms. And gather crops from 'neath the yielding tide. At once my recreation and my pride. The morn is fair, haul taut the flapping sail : We spread our wings to catch the favoring gale; The water sparkles brightly at our prow. And joy inspires the heart as on we plough. Leaving the lap of mother earth behind As 't were her children for a " lark " inclined, Dashing the waves aside with rapturous glee. From trammels of the town's observance free. The sea in dalliance bathes our flashing sides. And seeming laughter murmurs in the tides, The glad display of ocean pleading more Than all the humdrum racket of the shore. But let the novice in his fireside nook With no fond longing on the ocean look, For how'er kindly Neptune greets his friends. To green novitiates he rough treatment lends. And, making sailors, he commends a cup Of old school practice in the bringing up. All love the sea, but those of gentler blood Were better home than on the heaving tlood; But if of ocean they would have their flU, 'T were wiser far to climb some neighboring hill. And watch the billows beaming in their sight. Without a hinderment to appetite. The killock cast, now drop the tempting line. Inviting denizens below to dine. A treacherous allurement this, no doubt. But as a victual question counted out. When all accord, with sentiment and wish. To leave the matter wholly with the fish. A bite !— all scruples quickly disappear. As o'er the rail the mammoth cod we rear. And every thought compunctious now is hid Within the limits of the fisher's kid. The farmer may enjoy a triumph keen When some new product of his skill is seen. The merchant gladden o'er his profits snug. The savant glow with some new plant or bug. The grave philosopher in bi-ighter light May joy in some old truth set nearer right. The maiden glory in her new caught flame. The matron smile approval of the same, But none, with full attainment of their wish. Can rival his who takes his first cod fish. E'en wise professors, learned in the schools, Forget sedateness and collegiate rules. With the first fish exhibiting a joy That beats the glad exuberence of the boy. Whom he 'd chastise for half the wild offence That he commits in his delight intense. SALT WATER LfXES. J^r As hand o'er hand the festive fish are drawn. No conscience tender need he put in pawn By any story that the credence tries. For all fulfill the complement of size. And, if exaggeration 's used at all. It must, to be believed, make fish more small ! ! How they come in ! What monsters do we pull ! All twenty-pounders, and the kid is full ; And there is one, full fifty pounds, I 'd 8aj% The big-gest yet— by George, he's got away! Fifty, said I ?— I '11 set him twenty more. And then the figure is quite low I 'm sure, A scent pervades the air— a pungent smell- That fishers and their guests know very well. Which blends in unison of land and sea. An epicurean sweet mystery. The onion dominant, in presence thei-e. That with the strongest perfumes may compare. A flagrant outrage often deemed at home. But fragrant out upon the ocean's foam. Where the grand chowder magnifies its claim. As chief of stews, to epicurean fame. To Yankee taste the chowder holds a lot. That's not surpassed by haggis to the Scot, But ne'er so grateful as when, on the sea. Alfresco serving gives it poignancy. I 've heard it said that vessels, outward bent. Will leave their course to catch the chowder scent, As from some fisher 's deck it may ascend. And on the wind to their glad noses wend, (Reminder of the land from which they part). The ne plus ultra of the cooking art. Now clouds the sun, and in the darkening west An angry looking squall makes manifest. And muttering thunder, heard above the sea. Betokens elemental anarchy. The winds released rave o'er the darkened main, And our good vessel chafeth at her chain; Now drenching pours the rain with furious night. Shutting all trace of neighboring land from sight. While howling o'er the waves the tempest's wail Proclaims the struggle of the hostile gale. The fisher heeds not the ferocious din. Save to make sure his anchor, and turns in. To wait the clearing of the summer sky. That well he knows will be along " by 'n by," For, like the sea-birds, he the warning tells And in all sea philosophy excels. But not alone the cod and smaller fry Content the fisher, with ambitious eye : His the impulsion and his warmest boast To meet the sword-fish— monarch of the coast. Who, foe to all (the finny tribe his prey). Has drawn his sword, and thrown the sheath away. 322 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. His bannered fln, of buckaneerish black, Swing-ing defiant from his warlike back. One g-lance alone— the fisher swiftly steers To where, above the wave, the fin appears. And, mounting to the pulpit's toppling- site. His trained eye seconding his muscle's might. He drives the iron through the monster's side. Who darts away like lightning 'mid the tide, Feeling the barb, but vain his mad essay From his approaching doom to get away. The boat is manned, the tub of lines bestowed. And on they go like racers o'er the road I The stricken fish his fate impending feels With his brisk foeman close upon his heels, 'Till, his endeavor counting him as nought, He yields to the conviction that he 's " caught." Weakens and weakens in his dying strait. And yields him to the certainty of fate— Unless, perhaps, enough of life remains To put the fisher to the utmost pains. And, by a sword-thrust or malignant blow. Treats his pursuer to an overthrow, Who, ere he has a chance to wink or think. Finds himself floundering in the briny "drink." Hunters may seek to kill the mild-eyed deer. The timid tenants of the woodland sphere, But here upon the ocean's broad expanse. The fisher with his nerve-directed lance, Findeth a foeman worthy of his steel. And risks his life the victory to seal. But not exclusively the fisher's art Captures the fancy and controls the heart. The yachtsmen with the fishermen divide The honors of the everlasting tide. And every water exultation feels At the invasion of their daring keels. We hail the yacht, enlivening the scene. Where floated once our mercantile marine. Like fairy craft their white sails flout the air. As on they flee in sportive action fair. Cleaving the waves with rapid speed and grace. And winning praise, if not, all times, the race. All cannot win— that 's so, since time began— But all who own a yacht contend she can. Of late how every Yankee pulse was up To keep possession of the champion cup, A nation's honor trembling in the scale. And what if, in the trial, we should /aii .' Portentous thought! possessing every man. When up popped Burgess and his Puritan. The eagle screamed, the lion roared his bass. And the white sloop retained the cup in place! So when another trial came about— The cup— momentous dipper !— still in doubt. The Mayflou'er—gv&nd. old Puritanic name !— Bespoke the job and took the cup the same. From the proud note of joy that then went up. It might be thought that all had ta'en a cup SALT WATER LINES. J2j Of something strong-er than the silver mug. O'er which the sturdy yachtsmen had their tug. The British lion angrily withdrew, The Eagle screaming up the empyrean flew. Gazing in triumph on the scene below. While the whole nation felt a cheerful glow! Puritan stock, though watered in this case, Will e'er claim standard value on its face. And representatives of Plymouth Rock Will always hold first place as premium stock. And what a pride the jaunty yachtsman shows, When, home returning, beams his ruddy nose- Perhaps the only trophy he has won, A badge of honor from the regal sun! I often feel that yachts may be like men. Improving on examples that they ken. And that the dash and vim they sometimes make From their ;?erce masters they the impulse take. My own sweet, modest, graceful Jennie B., I know takes all her pleasant traits from me. Coyly and kind she courses o'er the main. For no erratic execution fain, Content to yield submission to my wish, If bound for pleasure or to seek for flsh; A yacht sedate, with no eccentric pranks. If at her moorings or on Tanto's Banks, I feel secure, with tiller at command, As if with any tiller of the land. But fearful is the aspect of the main. When, worse than wind, or wave or drenching rain. The fog comes stealing o'er its surface bright, Like a vile thief in the obscuring night, And, ere we half the subtle change may mark. The cloud envelopes us and all is dark!— All gone the land— no vestige can we see— And all around us is one dread mystery. The world shut out. creation in eclipse. The Jennie B. through fog and wat«r slips, A wall of cloud above and all around. An oar's length limit our encircling bound. In lonliest abandonment ai-e we. With no companion but the seething sea. That seems to hold the darkening gloom in fear. And fain would board us for imagined cheer. Oh, what a sense of dreariness prevails As the dense cloud persistently assails ! The damp environment our pulses chills. While dread uncertainty our being thrills. Not knowing where we are, or what, or how, Ourselves, alone, of all existence now. Remainders frail of the great world below. Our bound the fog banks that around us grow. The sticky helm scarce heeds the steerer's hands, As en the Jennie B. at random stands. 324 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. The while we hear, mid pauses of the sea. Imagined breakers booming- on our lee. Giving the heart anxiety intense, With interposing fog's obscuring dense. Drop anchor !— there, kind heaven be thanked, we know There is no fog to worry us below. All clear again ! the sun asserts its power. The foggy banks before his influence cower. The anchor raised, and with the grateful wind We leave our care and grumbling all behind; More fair the sea to our admiring eyes, More brightly bend the ovei-arching skies. More gay the world, late buried in the gloom. As if 't were resurrected from its tomb. And on we speed, above the summer wave. With nothing for our happiness to crave; The bounding keel responds to urgent sail. And the pulse quickens 'neath the gentle gale. Talk of your spans and your equestrian bliss! What are they to a turn-out such as this ? But there are times that yield not such delight. When flsh are scarce, and what there are won't bite. And all the longing of the heart and soul Is centered on the hooks you vainly troll. Giving the flsh a chance along your wake. Which they seem very ill disposed to take. This thing occurs when mackerel are shy. Who watch the flsher with contemptuous eye. His lavishment of bait bestowed in vain. While they cavort in schools about the main. Picking a bit with a fastidious look. But e'er avoiding carefully the hook. At such time patience leaves the fisher's breast. And the poor fellow jieldeth to the test. Searches his lexicon for thunderous words Of imprecation on the scaly herds. Who come and go with infinite content. And for his fretting do not care a cent. Thus did I find it once with Captain Frank, When we of clams had failed a solvent bank. And not a mackerel gave a look or sign Of anything desired in ovir line, As on we drifted mid a summer day. Across the waters of old Saco Bay. ( Who's Captain Frank V My captain and my friend. Born by the sea and there will, may be, end, A student of it since his earliest look. And reads its mysteries as it were a book.) We had discussed the theologic schism At Andover about the catechism. When Captain Frank, in tone chagrined a mite. Failing to get the inkling of a bite, As he drew in his far extended line Said—" This is hopeless fishing, I opine. SALT WATER LINES. "Come, let's no more this dodge persuasive make, " But from the ' old school ' new departure take." But with the " new departure " comes a doubt Whether 't is quite so safe to venture out! And if, when gained some other fishing ground, A better catch may there be likely found. But on the new departure may await A change in modus, and a change in bait Adapted to the fishes' change of mind. Which to a different diet is inclined. Shall we depart or not ?— " Ay, there 's the rub ! " — Shall we lay back, while others fill their tub. Who only share with us the hope and wish For the riffM grounds and better fare of fish ? Are we quite wise in drifting o'er the Bay, While others, ./MS? beyond, may win the day. Dropping their lines in ocean deep and wide. And drawing in the treasures from its tide ? The fishermen of Galilee, we 're taught. Had "toiled all night" and ne'er a fish had caught. But when "The Master" new departure bade. They pushed from land and further trial made. With such success that e'en their nets gave way Beneath the burden of the finny prey. The safest course ive crave— with doubt oppressed- May God, all wise, reveal which is the best ! Therefore we wait, midst clouds and vapors dark. And drop our anchor to secure our bark, — Drop also, with the anchor, all our fight. Hoping and praying fervently for light. These episodes embodied in my rhyme, Are but the sea-shore rote in summer time, (Where plaj'f ully the shore and water meet. And timid Savmterers gaily dip their feet,) Compared with interests hinged upon the deep. The whole world comprehended in their sweep ! The fisher's art a place momentous shares. But little his for all he does and dares ! Wealth, station, ease upon his toils attend. And he is but a toiler at the end. Daring vicissitudes of strife and pain, A scanty living from the sea to gain. But swelling coffers, others to possess. With small return his vacant jjouch to bless. And varied fortunes do the fishers meet! When fi-om fair Gloucester starts the Georges fleet. All buoyant with exuberance of hope Successfully with wind and wave to cope. The vessels bending to the favoring gale. While benedictions follow as they sail. The gleaming waves of Massachusetts Bay Flecked with their canvas as they speed away ! Forgotten in excitement of his art The parting sad that rung the fisher's heart— 41 S^S 32b GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Those farewells spoken but so little past, Those partings bitter that may prove the last! These all return when out upon the main, And quietude has come to him ag-ain. With blissful power, all other thoughts above, Sweet recollections of domestic love ! His heart inspired, he feels nor doubt nor fear With those fond benedictions in his ear. Alas ! the sequel far too often shows How hope all fled as raging storms arose. And all in vain could sturdy skill contend Against the tempest's power to wreck and rend; And those returning shock with grief the town By tales of how the gallant bark went down. Hark to the widow's cry! the orphan's moan! God pity them— and hearts are not of stone. And others come not back from other cause: The want of knowledge of the fishery laws; The "three-mile limit" is so dimly shown That they depend on guessing it, alone; The headlands bother them and these they guess. And find themselves in just a "pretty mess," With frowning gun-boats, armed with real guns And manned by Canada's all thundering sons. With customs officers, backed up by laws. Which force the Yankee skipper overawes. But says : " Well, here I 'm stuck, but give me chance "To show my heels, and you may go to France. " I may through ignorance have been amiss, " But don't you think my country '11 hear of this';' " And then, I guess, you '11 have to let me go." But Echo answered, with a wink, " Do n't know:'' Now home returning— moves the Jennie B.— I for the moment leave the mighty sea. And bring my gleanings on your ears to throw. Though ?ort(7— the gleanings, not the ears, you know,— Showing a little of a wondrous whole, A subject far beyond my mind's control; To write of which I 'd have again to go And test that spring, supposed, of wondrous flow. And dip my inkstand in its running tide. Which aided me to run this circuit wide. But now avast ! my muse suspends her flight, And will not budge another foot to-night. Her sea-legs shaky, and her steps at fault. She 's stiff as Lot's wife from excess of salt. THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. IN 1883 I published a small book, entitled " Winter Talk on Summer Pastime,'''' the matter being composed, mainly, of yachting and fishing experiences the summer previous, among which I introduced a chapter upon the Life-Savin g Service along the coast of New Hampshire and Maine. In the present volume, based upon the former, this chapter has been retained, mainly as it then appeared, thus ac- counting for the remoteness of the occurrences described, but which will always be read as historical evidences of the valor and prowess of the brave men of that past, to be compared with the conduct of those of succeeding time, so meritorious and grand, of which I have herein included a goodly account. I have brought the record of incidents down to nearly the time of publishing my volume, most of them replies to my personal solicitation, and they reveal a quality of merit unsurpassed in the annals of maritime ex- ploit. With the loftiest idea of duty, combining in their conduct philanthropy and heroic daring, these noble sons of the sea will, as has lately been shown in the Vineyard service, give their lives to the cause, the poor return of a scanty salary not half equivalent for their risk; and with an indifferent public appreciation, their virtue is almost literallv left to its own reward. A mere mention in the newspa- pers constitutes their fame, and this, mingled with an 328 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. account of beach strewn fragments and local incidents, re- duces their effort to a commendable but commonplace affair. But they, nevertheless, pursue their round of duty with an earnest will, unheralded and unknown, until it comes to notice through accidents by flood, with loss of life perhaps attending it. I hope that those who read these pages, portraying the dangers as well as benefits attending this service, will take a more kindly interest in the brave fellows who compose the crews, whose gallant efforts have done, and are doing, so much for humanity and the saving of property. FROM THE "WINTER TALKS. Having reeled up our fishing lines, I will now give a few sketches of the Life-Saving Service. One of the sta- tions is located at Biddeford Pool, and since its organiza- tion I have been interested in the men in charge, and mindful of the dangers they may have to encounter. The brief history of this service is replete with adventures and wonderful achievements in life-saving. All along our rugged coast are placed life-saving sta- tions manned by stalwart and fearless men, who have fol- lowed the sea and know the wants of, and can administer aid to, a fellow man in trouble, as no others can. The life- saving service had its origin in Great Britain, The Amer- ican life-saving service, under the present system, is ten vears old. In the year 1871, Hon. Sumner I. Kimball succeeded to the head of the Revenue Marine Bureau of the Treasury Department, under the charge of which were the life-saving stations. In his brain originated the idea of guarding the entire coasts of the nation by establishing a chain of these stations, to be in charge of thorough sea- men, men living in the neighborhood and having a knowl- edge of the shoals and dangerous rocks along the shore. A code of regulations was prepared, and so stringent THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. j2g were they, that none but the courageous and fearless were fit subjects to fill the positions as surfmen. Political pre- ferment was entirely abandoned. Volumes might be writ- ten of the preliminary steps and workings of the institu- tion during the short time since its organization. A bill was introduced in Congress after the ground had been thoroughly looked over by men competent to have the matter in charge, and in June, 1874, ^^ became a law. The bill provided for the extension of the field of labor, and of the bestowing of medals of honor upon persons risking their lives to save others. It is impossible to make statements to exaggerate a shipwreck; those who have experienced its thrilling scenes can testify to the truth of this remark. The machinery which has been devised is no less remarkable than the successful handling of the same. There is a room in Washington set apart for all known life-saving implements, and open at all times for visitors. Great credit is due to the daring men who have so many times performed the service of saving life and property. The English life-boat is in general use in our western lakes, but its heavy weight (two to four tons), precludes its use on the flat beaches and shoal waters of the Atlantic. An American boat of one thousand pounds weight is best suited to the eastern shores. It is placed upon wheels, and drawn to the place opposite the wreck by the men themselves, when no horses can be procured. It re- quires great skill in launching the boat and afterwards manning it. Perhaps most of my readers have seen a fish- erman go over the breakers on a beach in his dory. How skillfully he watches his chances, and his movements must be well-timed, if not his boat is swamped; so with the managing of the life-boat. It is an imposing sight to see a hfe-boat launched and skillfully managed through the breakers. Then, when the wreck is reached, no less skill is necessary to keep the boat from thumping in her sides as she lies alongside, or jjo GLEAXIXGS FROM THE SEA. in performing the hazardous undertaking of embarking her living freight and landing them safely upon shore. JNIanv are the number of vessels that have been safely piloted into a snug harbor, while wreck after wreck has been re- lieved of those imperilled, and afterwards dashed to pieces upon the rocks. The annual reports issued by the Bureau every year show an admirable record of the saving of life and property. To those unacquainted with the workings of the institu- tion I would say that suitable buildings are erected at dan- gerous points upon the coast, containing a large room, with double doors for the life- boat, and all the implements and paraphernalia for the service: a general room for cooking and where the men can sit when off duty; above, a room for the keeper, and a large room for the men, seven in number, and a bed for each man. The duties of the men are as follows: On the coast where the stations are near together, systems of checks have been adopted. At sunset two men start from the station, one going to the right, the other to the left: each travels on his lonely path over loose sand, ragged boulders, or climbing his way along the rocky shore, notwithstanding the blinding snow storms, if in winter, and at any time of the year contending- against hio-h winds and rain storms. When men meet from differ- ent stations thev exchange checks and return to their re- spective quarters. The night is divided into four watches. The keeper has a log-book, in which he puts down the name of each patrolman and his duty, and has to see that the requirements are lived up to. A record has also to be made of the direction and force of the wind at sunrise, noon, sunset and midnight, together with the events of each day. Every week the keeper is obliged to send a trans- cript of events, just as they occurred, to headquarters at WashiniTton. As soon as it is ascertained that a vessel is ashore and wants assistance, the keeper must use his judg- ment whether it is prudent to launch the life-boat. THE LIFE-SAVIXG SERVICE. jji Upon the lakes, during 1881, some of the deeds of res- cue have enveloped the rough figures of the life-saving men in a blaze of heroism. One example was at the wreck of the Amazon off the Grand Haven piers in Lake Michigan — a large four-masted twin-screw steamer, with sixty-eight persons on board, thirty of whom were passen- gers. The wind and waves were dashing the steamer to pieces, and it was beginning to sink, when, after almost superhuman exertions, the hawser and hauling lines were connected with the foremast, and the life-car was sent out with one of the life-saving crew to superintend operations. In an hour and a quarter every one on board was landed. The first trip of the car brought on shore four ladies and a little girl, the second came with six ladies. It made fourteen trips in all, the last two or three being devoted to bringing ashore the United States mails and some of the baggage of the passengers. A dog was also brought on shore. These men, who confront danger and face death, ought to receive, at the hands of Government, ample compensa- tion; also social protection in the form of pensions to the widows and orphans of those who perish in the perform- ance of their humane work. More than once has a life- saving crew been lost outright. In 1S76, on the North Carolina shore, a surf-boat went out to assist a vessel and never returned. Upon the Atlantic coast it is oftentimes in winter too rough even to launch a boat, and in this case thev resort to the life-saving ordnance, which has been greatlv im- proved of late years. The gun in use was cast iron, weighing two hundred and eighty-eight pounds and throw- ing a ball, with a line attached, four hundred and twentv- one yards. This gives place to the Parrott gun, weighino- two hundred and sixty-six pounds, with a range of four hundred and seventy-three yards. The first ball fired in the United States to save life is preserved, in the museum 332 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. of the life-saving service at Washington, with tender care. It was used at the wreck of the Ayrshire, on Squam Beach, New Jersey, in 1830, and two hundred and one lives were saved through its means. The Lyle gun is of bronze, weighing one hundred and eighty-five pounds, with a range of six hundred and ninety-five yards. This has superseded all others, and is considered the best in exist- ence. The rocket, so much used abroad, is found to be uncertain. The shot line in use, like the gun, is the result of careful experiment. It is made of strong linen thread, closely and smoothly braided and water proof. It is coiled in a " faking box " so exactly that it will run off freely and fly to a wreck without getting tangled. The gun must be aimed so that the line will fall over the ship; rather a difficult matter to manage in the night-time, and more especially if there is a blinding snow storm. In case of failure the Hne is drawn in and coiled or laid out in loops upon a " tarpaulin " spread upon the shore, ready for the second trial. The sailors, as soon as the line reaches them, pull upon it till the whip or hauling line — an inch and a half in circumference — -is made fast to the shore end of the shot line, which is drawn on board with a pully- block, or tail-block, and a tablet or tally-board with in- structions (English on one side, French on the other) how to arrange it for use. When this is fixed, the surfmen haul upon one part of the whips and send the hawser, which rests on a crotch, quickly erected on shore as a sort of temporary pier. The sand-anchor sustains this slender bridge of rope. It is composed of two pieces of wood crossed at their centres and bolted together, and is buried in a trench behind the crotch and connected with the hawser by a double pully-block. The breeches-buoy is drawn to and fro upon these ropes, bringing one person at a time. " All this seems very easy upon paper, particularly when the sun shines through the lattice, or the reader occupies a soft-cushioned chair before a warm cheerful tire. But THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. jjj when darkness reigns, and the winds howl, and every drop of spray freezes until the rescuers are encased in ice, and the wreck rises, and rolls, and turns half somersaults, with each gust, in total disregard of the convenience of the surf- men, and a hundred possible mishaps, which break just beyond the borders of vision, the aspect changes and the reality becomes more wonderful than any trick of fancy or fiction." The use of the life-car involves more labor and difficulty, but is of great advantage when extreme haste is required and many are to be brought ashore. It is a covered boat of sheet iron into which six or seven persons ma}- be crowded at once. A philanthropic work was commenced by the ladies of America, in 1880, for supplying the stations with warm clothing and blankets, for those who might be rescued from a w^atery grave. Medals of honor, in gold and sil- ver, are awarded for extraordinary acts of heroism in sav- ing life. The area of the work yearly increases and recommendations for the increase of means should not be allowed to pass unheeded. There is not a department connected with the government, where money is disbursed, that brings any more satisfactory returns. The Life-Saving Stations in District No. i, comprising the states of Maine and New Hampshire, were opened for active service, Dec. ist, 1874. These were five in num- ber, situated as follows: West Quoddy Head, Cross Island, Crumple Island, Biddeford Pool, Me., and Locke's Point, N. H. Since that time two more have been added, one of them situated on Little Cranberrv Island, the other at White Head Island, Me. Thus it will be seen that six of these stations are situated on the very roughest parts of the coast of Maine, some of them on islands miles from the main land and far from any habitation. The stations were manned with crews consisting of a keeper, and six men, who went on dutv Dec. ist, and remained until Mav 334- GLEAXIXGS FROM THE SEA. I St, following, making five months" active service. The keepers' salary was fixed at izvo hundred dollar's a year, and he was not only obliged to be at the station during active service, but to have full charge during the inactive season. The crews received a compensation for their ardu- ous task of forty dollars a month! These were, indeed, very small wages in comparison with the work required of them, and when we take into consideration the exposure b}- day and night thev met with, the storms and tempests they encountered, we almost wonder that men were to be had at this price, who were willing to risk their lives to save others. In 1878 the active season commenced Sept. ist, and continued eight months. The keepers' salarv at this time was raised to four hundred dollars a vear, while that of the crews continued as before. In March, 1882, the crews' pay was raised to forty-five dollars a month, and in June following, by an act of Congress, the pav of the crews was fixed at fifty dollars a month, and that of the keepers at seven hundred dollars a year. The crews of all stations in the district are chosen, as I have before stated, from shore fishermen and boat-men, men who are skilled in boating and who are not afraid of danger when the elements are at war, and they are all obliged to undergo a strict examination, physically, by a marine hospital surgeon, before being allowed to sign arti- cles. If they cannot pass the surgeon thev cannot enter the service, as it is imperative to have tough, hardv and sound men for this duty. The keepers must be men who are used to command, must have a fair education, as everything connected with the stations is directly under their charge, and they must render a strict account for all that transpires at their respective stations. That my readers may understand the dangers and hard- .ships that are encountered by the surfmen at different sta- tions, I will give them the account of the loss of the Kate THE LIFE-SAVIXG SERVICE. 335 Upham, as taken from Hon. S. I. Kimball's (the General Superintendent's) report of 1881: " At 9 o'clock on the morning of October 23. iSSo, the weather being rainy, with occasional heavy hail and snow-squalls from the eastward, the two patrolmen on dutv from Station No. 3, (Crumple Island, Maine,) discovered a brig, afterwards found to be the Kate Upham. of St. John, Xew Brunswick, with eleven men on board, in an apparantly disabled condition, about three miles south-east from Red Head, the easterly point of the island on which the station stands. One of them immediately reported the fact to the station. Keeper Hall, with his crew, at once hurried out to the point named, and, after watching the vessel for a few moments, became satisfied that she was in trouble. No distress signals were set; the reason, as was afterward learned, being that the cabin was full of water and the flags could not be got at. As soon as possible keeper Hall hoisted a warning signal from the flag- staff on the Head, but received no answer from the vessel. He now saw that the spars and sails were gone, and lumber from her deck-load was floating in the water as she rapidly drifted toward the rocks in an apparently unmanage- able condition. The keeper and his men, finding their signals unanswered, endeavored to attract attention by waving their hats and coats in such a man- ner as to give the brig's crew to understand that they ought to use all possible efforts to head the vessel to the westward, toward the channel between the Crumples and Great Wass islands. These signals were soon discovered by the brig's crew, and they could be seen endeavoring to pay her off in the di- rection indicated. Satisfied that he was understood on board the vessel, the keeper directed his men to return to the station and run out the new surf-boat and then wait his further instructions; he remaining meanwhile to watch the movements of the brig. Observing that they had succeeded in heading her for the channel, he ran back to the station and found the boat outside the house in readiness for its perilous voyage. The crew had divested themselves of their heavy clothing and donned cork life-belts, in anticipa- tion of rough work. and. thus attired, they stood leaning on their boat, grimly watching the storm and sea, awaiting the order to start, their minds fully made up, as one said, -To save the brig's crew or go with them.' The keeper hastily put on his cork-belt, and then giving the word to launch, away they went and pulled for the channel. The wind was blowing with nearly the force of a hurricane, and although the depth of water in mid- channel is full five fathoms, the sea was breaking clear to the bottom. As the life-saving crew cleared the point of the island with the boat, thev saw the brig just entering the breakers in the channel, and coming like a race- horse, the seas breaking all over her — one, more heavy than the rest, rush- ing over her stern, as an eye witness said — 'Like a wall of water fully ten feet high, and smashing her two decks together.' The crew of the brig, eleven in all. two St. John pilots being of the number, with scared and anx- ious faces, watched the almost superhuman efforts of the surfmen to get to their assistance. The boat was gallantly pulled into the breakers and a close watch kept for a chance to approach the brig. Soon the vessel struck J.J.6 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. on a small sunken ledge and swung around. This gave the keeper an op- portunity, by watching the seas as they tumbled in, to pull up and allow the men on the brig to jump into the boat. The captain, in the excitement of the moment, missed the boat and fell o\erboad. He was speedily hauled in, and after a hard and exciting tussle with the sea and wind the entire number were rescued. It was afterward related that the captain of the brig, when he saw the life-saving crew delib- erately pulling out into the whirl of waters, exclaimed, 'Good God! what can that little white boat do.'' He in good time found out, and when, after an hour's hard pull, he and his men Avere safely landed on the island, they could not find words to express their gratitude to the crew of the station, nor to extol the 'little white boat,' which, under the management of brave men, had been the instrument of their rescue from a watery grave. They were sheltered at the station two days." A gentleman from Logansport, Indiana, who was visit- ing on one of the islands and witnessed the rescue, ad- dressed to Capt. J. M. Richardson, the district superin- tendent, the following letter. Logansport, Ind., November 4, 1S80. Dear Sir: — On the morning of the 23d ultimo, I witnessed an act of heroism on the part of Capt. Hall and his crew, of the Crumples life-saving station, which deserves especial mention. The English brig Kate Upham, was driven into the western bay, between Pond Point and the Crumples, during a fearful storm, and struck on a ledge near Fisherman's Island. She had lost her rudder, boats, and was otherwise injured. The brave crew of the life-saving station, with more courage than it required to face a battery, launched their surf-boat and went to the rescue. Standing on Beal's Island, looking through my glass, I had a good view of the surroundings. It seemed impossible for a boat to live in such a sea. "Tempest tossed" was no longer an imaginary picture. On every hand the sea was breaking, and the life-boat, with her noble crew, seemed but the sport of the angry waves; one moment hidden in the trough of the sea, the next borne rapidly on a vast comber toward the ill-fated brig. While I could but admire the spirit that prompted the daring men to risk their lives in the noble service, it seemed a suicidal attempt; for the chances were greatly against them. By almost superhuman efforts they reached the brig and saved the crew — eleven men. In my western home I learned something of the life-saving service, but never dreamed of its importance until I saAv it practically dem- onstrated a few days ago. The service commends itself to every lover of his race, and should receive the support of the people of all sections of the country. Will Congress render it more efficient by needed appropriations.' We cannot weigh life in the balance with dollars and cents. What better or easier way to expend a fair proportion of our revenue than in the cause of humanity.' Very respectfully, W. G. Nash. THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. j>j7 Crumple Island, on which station No. 3 is located, is a little, rough, rocky island of about thirty acres, 6ight miles from the main land. The nearest point of land is Fisher- man's Island about a mile to the westward, and Great Wass Island, two miles to the eastward. On the upper end of Great Wass Island, about six miles from the sta- tion, live a few fishermen and their families. On the lower end is a camp used by Hon. W. G. Nash and others, who are occasionally down there looking after sheep that are pastured on the island. It was at the time of Mr. Nash's visit that the w^reck occurred. And it will readily be seen, that this crew were a long way from help, had any acci- dent happened to them. There were eight chances against them to two in their favor, and they knew full well that, if anything befel them, not only the eleven men on the brig, but they also, must perish, for there was no one but Mr. Nash nearer than five miles of them, with no way of being seen or heard. Mr. Nash afterwards stated that he thought the boat's crew crazy to start on so perilous an undertaking, for he expected to see them all drown before his eyes, and he said it seemed as though his heart stopped beating as he watched them pull deliberately into the open sea, in which he thought no boat could live. This was indeed a true act of bravery. And if those who are ever ready to find fault with this branch of service, could have been present, and witnessed this heroic act, they would forever hold their peace, and make no more unnecessary comments on the effectiveness of the life- savingr stations. By the kindness of J. M. Richardson, Superintendent of Life-Saving stations in District No. i, I am permitted to give my readers the account of the total loss of the barque Scotia, of Liverpool, England, and the rescue of the captain and crew, fifteen in number, by the use of the breeches- buoy. This account, which is from the keeper's journal, is in his own style of writing, and has never been published. jj-ee it. Our report this vear will be late — unavoidably so, bvit when you receive it. vou will see that we maintain our supremacy as life-savers. With renewed thanks for your letter, Sincerely yours, S. I. Kimball, General Superintendent. . I append the letter of Capt. W. F. Goldthwait, com- mended bv Superintendent Kimball. The captain is a soundlv practical man, fullv acquainted with the service, and his opinions carry with them great weight: the life-saving stations. Editor Methuen Transcript : — There is some little stir in Congress to have the Life-Saving Stations put under the control of the Navy Department, and to those who have never given this subject a thought it may be well to THE LTFE-SAVIXG SERVICE. 341 call their attention to a few facts in regard to the operations of this branch of service. The Life-Saving Service, as now carried on by government, was commenced a few vears ago under many difficulties. Scattering Sta- tions were built along the shores in places supposed to be the most danger- ous to navigation, manned by the best men that could be had, and in nearly every instance these men have displayed so much skill, and proved them- selves in such manner, that it has called forth the praise of all those who have seen the great benefits derived from it. The result of this has been that the number of Stations have been largely increased on our seaboard, and many have been erected on the Lake shores. This has been brought about by the untiring zeal of a few persons, although there is not a ship- owner in this or any other country, nor a man that follows the sea, nor those who have friends that do business on the "mighty deep,"' nor who are in anv wav connected with our shipping interests, but know and acknowl- edge the fact that the Life-Saving Service has done a great good in saving life and property. But when these facts are known, and Congress has been asked to make appropriations to increase the facilities for saving the lives of those who have been driven on shore and shipwrecked, and to alleviate the sufferings of seamen who have been cast away and lost everything, we are sorry to say, but it is nevertheless true, that only a few of the many that we send to Congress have taken an active part in this matter. And here permit me to give the condensed yearly report of Mr. Kimball, Gen- eral Superintendent of Life-Saving Stations, for iSSi, which I hope will be read with interest and care. The report says: " The number of disasters to documented vessels within the field of Sta- tion operations during the year was 2S7. There were 2,268 persons on board these vessels of whom 2,256 were saved and only twelve were lost. The number of shipwrecked who required succor was 450, and to those 1,334 days' relief in the aggregate was afforded. The estimated value of the vessels involved in these disasters was S3.265.S30 and that of their car- goes $1,492,062 making the total value of property imperiled $4,757,892, of this amount $3,109,537 was saved and $1,648,355 lost. The number of disasters involving the total destruction of vessels was sixty-seven. In addition to the foregoing there have been fifty-eight in- stances of disasters to small craft as sail-boats, row-boats, etc., on which were one hundred and twenty-eight persons, all of whom were saved. The property involved in the lattar disasters was $7,870 of which $6,470 was saved and $1,400 lost. The results of all the disasters in the scope of the service aggregate therefore as follows: Total number of disasters, 345. Value of property involved, $4,765,762. Value of property saved, $3,106,007. Value of property lost, $1,654,755. Number of persons involved, -096. Number of persons saved, -.384- There were thirty-nine persons rescued in addition to those saved from vessels (they having fallen from wharves, piers, etc.) who would certainly have been drowned but for the assistance rendered by Life-Saving crews. The investigations held in each case show that the twelve persons lo>t during the year were entirely beyond the reach of human aid. Although 43 :;^2 GLEAXIXGS FROM THE SEA. there were fortv-four more disasters than during anv previous vear since the general extension of the service, the loss of life is smaller with one ex- ception than that of any vear preceeding. The assistance rendered in saving vessels and cargoes has been very sjreat this vear, 298 vessels having been worked off when stranded, piloted out of dangerous places, repaired when damaged, or assisted in similar ways bv the Station crews. There were besides seventy-six instances when ves- sels running into danger of stranding were warned oS by the night signals of the patrol and thus probably saving most of them from partial loss or destruction." It has been said that facts are stubborn things and that figures don't lie, and here we have them right before us. Let them be looked over care- fullv. Don't lay them aside and give to this subject but a passing thought. Read them over until you thoroughly understand the great blessings de- rived from this branch of service. The lives of nearly 2,500 persons have been placed in jeopardy and all but twelve saved, during the year, and this by the brave and heroic men that man the stations, and in many cases under the most trving dilBculties. Numerous are the instances where they have risked their lives to rescue those who were in peril, and no time have we heard that thev shrank from their duty on any occasion. Yet we are com- pelled to sav that they have not always the full co-operation and sympathy of the people in the neighborhood of wrecks and disasters. This has arisen out of pettv jealousies and feeling towards the men, they being in the em- plov of the government which calls for the best men that can possibly be had, and this leaves a chance for some one to find fault, but let us hope the day is not far distant when this fault-finding, which we think has cost some noble lives, will cease, and the full, hearty sympathy of all will be enlisted in this work. But we must not forget the men who have nobly volunteered, with- out thought of pay or emolument, and have even risked their lives while assisting the keepers and crews of stations to save the lives of others. They deserve crreat praise, indeed, we cannot say too much for them, and they richlv merit the heartiest commendation of all. For, while they do not act in an otficial capacity, it shows that their hearts are open to those who are determined, and they are ready at all times to do all they can to help others who may be in trouble. For those who have never seen old ocean lashed into fury by the terrible >torms of winter, and who know nothing of the hardships and dangers the surfmen encounter, I will append an extract from Superintendent Kimball's report: " It is perhaps well known, but probably feebly realized that for eight months of the year the patrols of the Life-Saving Service keep watch upon the ocean beaches from sunset to dawn, in other words, that for hundreds of miles of dark coast beaten by incessant breakers every night and all night long while others sleep, a line of solitary men march and counter- march to and from each other with eyes that ransack the offing for ships in peril. The wav is long, dreary, obscure, lonesome, sinister, difficult, peril- ous. It lies along a waste of foot-detaining sand, whereon to walk is to trudge laboriously, frequently ankle deep, at times to stumble over stones, or wreck-wood washed up by the sea. or to sink suddenly in spots of quick- sand, often the surf shoots seething across the path, or the sentinel wades knee-deep and even hip-deep across inlets which traverse the beach into THE LIFE-SAVIXG SERVICE. S4S the bars bevond. or cuts -which trench through into the sand hills. The fit- ful lights and shadows of a lantern alone mark the sombre wav. Winter and rough weather are the companions of the journey. All natural vicissi- tudes, all hardships, all exposures known between the autumnal and vernal equinoxes, bitter cold, rain in torrents, cutting sleeL blinding flights of sand and sprav. tides that flood the very dunes behind the beaches, the terrible snow storm, the suffocating blasts of the hurricane. There is a case where a man perished in one of these heroic marches. In several instances men have been found fallen and nearly dead by the comrades whom their long absence from the station has sent out in alarmed quest of them. In still others there have been accidents involving broken limbs to the noctumai journeyers. There is no case where their patrollings are less than irksome and toilsome and they are often hazardous and sometimes fatal. But the dutv is necessary in interest of seafarers and nothing so much as this stern and noble watch upon the beaches has contributed to the success of the Life-Saving Service, because its performance involves the early discoverv of vessels driven ashore, and the opportunity to rescue their crews before the surf can destroy them. On the other hand, no duty could make higher demands upon the moral nature of the patrolman, for Avhat task can offer stronger temptations for shirking than this gloomy and dangerous tramp, undertaken from a warm station, away from the snug rest of a comfortable bed. into the awful solitude of the winter beaches, perhaps on nights when tempest makes the heavens and the earth tremble.- The very companion- lessness of the patrol, which strengthens the temptation to evade dutv. offers also ready facilities for doing so, and considerable trouble has been given at times both to the Life-Saving crews and the oflicers of the service bv accusations of unfaithfulness against the patrolman brought bv active members of the coast population. It is due to the life-saving watch to say that while in a few cases these charges have almost universally been kept with perfect fidelity, a fact fully established by the record of the prompt discoverv of wrecks in nearlv every instance, and the swiftness with which in so many cases the rescues have followed stranding, and this fact, remem- bering that the dutv with all its involved demands upon the fortitude, the loyaltv, and the intrepidity of the individual, has been performed under no task-masters eye, is not only in the highest degree creditable to the crews engaged, but an honor to human nature."" To the casual reader this may seem to be overdrawn. But he can be as- sured that it is no mere flight of the imagination, or a fancy picture of Mr. Kimball's gotten up for effect. It is simply a plain, truthful statement of the hardships and dangers the surfmen undergo, to which hundreds of men who live on our sea-coast can testify. These are not all the discomforts that these brave, heroic and self-denying men meet with. Two-thirds of the mem- bers of this station have families, and many of them are compelled, bv the long storms of winter and the rough weather that follows these storms to be away from their hoines for weeks and even months at a time ; and it is only during pleasant weather that they can get leave of absence. At no time, except in cases of sickness or death, are tAvo allowed to be absent on the same day, and then only for a few hours. And do we realize, as we sit by our fire- sides, these cold winter nights, while the storm is raging without, with every- thing to make us comfortable and happy, — surrounded by those we love and hold so dear. — that brave and noble men, isolated from their families, are constantly on the watch, day and night, braving all dangers, exposed to the fiercest blasts of wintry winds, A\atching with vigilance and fidelity, and alwavs true to the trust confided to them.- To us that have friends out unon 344 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. the troubled waters, when storm comes up, who are tossed up and down by the winds and waves, driven on a lee and rocky shore into the very jaws of death, the elements seemingly bent on their destruction — when hope gives way to despair and a watery grave stares them in the face, — it is good to know that brave and true men stand ready to take their lives in their hands and launch forth to the rescue. Then, how shall we express our gratitude for these brave unselfish men? Language is inadequate. But we are glad to know that while they keep guard through the lonely hours of night, kind friends think of them, and have done much to while away the weary hours, when off duty, with gener- ous donations of reading matter; even whole libraries have found their way into the stations, contributed by men, and women too, whose hearts are always open to the wants of humanity. As for the change that is talked of, it matters little, we opine, whether the Life-Saving Service is under the control of the naval or treasury department, as long as it is kept up to the high standard of its present management. It would make no difference to us who pulled us out of the water if we were saved from drowning, nor who piloted our ship off a lee shore if we found a safe harbor. The great question is, will it be any better; and if we see no chance for it to be more effectual, is it not better as it is.? We believe that at present it is in good hands. The men who are at the head of this department, have worked laboriously, zealously and faithfully, and they deserve great credit for bringing this service so near perfection. They have shown good judgment in selecting district superintendents, and these have been very careful to get nothing but the best men possible for keepers and crews. And when we look at it in the true light, laying aside all prejudice, if we have any, viewing it from the high stand-point of humanity, I think that the verdict will be, well as it is; and it were better to leave well enough alone. W. F. G. It has . been my good fortune to find an ample illustrated account of the " United States Life-Saving Service," in Scribner's Monthly for January, 1880, three years previous to the date of my book, but containing matter so entirely relevant, in the main, to the subject as it stands to-day, that I gladly introduce it, even though, in some respects, it may repeat descriptions given in the other pages. Such repetition, however, is merely the result of a view of the same subject from different points, and tends to impress it more con^'incingly. Therefore I make no apology for it, nor for the matter of the date of publication of the article, THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 345 as it is so admirably adapted to my use in illustrating the means and modes in practice to-day. Such improvements as have been made since the article was written are alluded to elsewhere, but in all essential features the service re- mains the same as then. S4t) GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. UNITED STATES LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. BY J. H. MERRYMAN, IN SCRIBNER S MONTHLY. IN the principal newspapers of commercial cities there may be seen, under the caption of "Marine Intelligence," or some such title, a column made up of items, set in non- pareil type, like the following, cut from a recent journal: Bark Halycon (of Bath), Dickinson, from Boston for Perth Ambov, in bal- last, went ashore on Long Beach, LI, A M of Sept. 4. All hands were taken off by the crew of Life-Saving Station No. 32. Has the reader any idea of the stirring drama a dry paragraph like this may conceal ? Let us endeavor to make it apparent. No portion of the ten thousand and more miles of the sea and lake coast line of the United States, extending through every variety of climate and containing every fea- ture of coast danger to the mariner, can exhibit a more terrible record of shipwreck than the long stretch of sandy beaches lying between Cape Cod and Cape Hatteras. Of this region the New Jersey coast is notoriously the worst. It has been said that if all the skeletons of vessels lying upon or imbeded in the sand between Sandy Hook and. Barnegat could be ranged in line, the ghastly array would reach from one point to the other. Here in 1848, the government placed a few rude huts that formed the nucleus from which the United States Life-Saving Service has been developed. These were intended to afford shelter to distressed mariners and to contain boats and such other Hfe-saving appliances as were then known, volunteers from among the fishermen being relied upon to use them on occasions of shipwreck. And right gallantly, in many instances, did the brave beachmen respond, though their undertakings and deeds remain mostly unwritten, existing chiefly in the legends of the coast. Congress continued THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 347 small appropriations from time to time, until Long Island was also provided with huts, and a small increase was made to the number on the coast of New Jersey. But from lack of proper direction and want of system the movement languished and subsided. In the meantime, the Royal National Life-boat Institution, a society started in Great Britain under royal patronage nearly fort}^ years prior to our own attempt, had gone on improving its methods and extending its means, and the people of other maritime nations were developing similar humane projects. The hour and the man at length came for our own institution. In 1871, Mr. Sum- ner I. Kimball, the present able Super- intendent, effected the organization and introduced the ex- isting s^-^stem. There are now upon the sea and lake coasts nearlv two hundred life-saving stations, the greater number being established at the more dangerous and exposed points. The buildings are plain, yet picturesque, and similar in general dimensions and arrangement, though varying somewhat in outward design, according to location — those near cities or popular watering-places being in keeping with their sur- 348 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. roundings and presenting a more finished appearance than those on desolate beaches. Those located in harbors or at inlets are each provided with an annex containing a self- righting and self-baiHng life-boat, which cannot be launched from a flat beach on account of its great weight and huge size, objections which are unavoidable in securing the valu- able qualities that distinguish it. The main building has, below, a boat-room and a mess- room, or kitchen, each provided with convenient closets and lockers, and, above, two sleeping apartments and a store- room. The boat-room contains the surf-boat, which is used on flat beaches and in shoal waters. It is mounted on a light carriage, which ma}' be drawn by the crew when draught animals are not available, unfortunately too often the case on remote outlying beaches. Within the same room also stands the mortar-cart, loaded with the wreck ordnance, lines, and various implements, while prop- erly bestowed throughout the apartment are various arti- cles, most of which will come under our notice in the operations to be described. The kitchen and sleeping rooms are sparingly provided with appropriate furniture, while the store-room is used for the stowage of the sea- son's provisions, cordage, spare oars, etc. Here the keeper and crew live during the active season, which varies according to the latitude of the districts into which the coast is divided. The keeper commands the crew of six surfmen. His position is one of grave responsibility, demanding long experience in his vocation and rare judgment in the execu- tion of his important trusts. The selection of his men, upon whose fidelity and skill depend not only his success, but oftentimes his life, as well as the fate of those whom he is expected to succor, is very properly confided solely to him. Both keeper and men are chosen from among the fish- ermen in the vicinity of the stations, who are most distin- THE lAFE-SAVING SERVICE. 349 guished for their ability as surfmen. Drawing their first breath within sound of the surf, they pass through child- hood viewing the sea in all its moods. In early youth they make their first essay in the breakers, and from that on to manhood advance from the least important oar through regular graduations, until the most skillful reach the command of the boat. This life gives them familiarity with the portion of the beach upon which they dwell, and DRILL AND EXERCISE IN THE SURF-BOAT. its bordering currents, eddies, and bars, and an intimate a:quaintance with habits of the surf. It is an erroneous notion that the experience of the sailor qualifies him for a surf-boatman. The sailor's home is at sea. He gives the land a wide berth, and is never at ease except with a good ofiing. He is rarely called upon to ply an oar in a small boat, particularl}' in a high surf, and his vocation gives h'm little knowledge of the surfman's realm, which is the beach and a portion of the sea extending but little beyond jjo GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. the breakers. The number of mariners who are annually lost in attempting to land from stranded vessels through the surf in their own boats, sorrowfully attests this fact. On the other hand, the most expert surfman may not be, and often is not, a sailor, though generally he has an ex- cellent knowledge of every part of a ship and her apparel, gained in his occupation of stripping wrecks. The training of the surfmen as life-saving men is com- pleted by officers of the Revenue Marine, whose own pro- fessional training, familiarity with the coast (acquired in their cruises along shore for the prevention of smuggling), and experience in assisting vessels in distress, especially qualify them for the duty. The life of the station surfmen is rather a monotonous, though not an idle, one. Each day has its portion of drill and exercise in the various methods employed in rendering aid to the shipwrecked, and considerable of the spare time of the men is occupied in keeping the building and appa- ratus in repair, and in making improvements around the station. At night their duties become severe and often perilous. The interval from sunset to sunrise is divided into three watches. At the beginning of each watch two men set out from the station on patrol duty, and follow their beats to the right and left respectively, until they meet the patrolmen from the adjacent stations, with whom they exchange certain tokens as proof to the keepers in the morning of the faithful performance of the duty. The relieving watches keep up this scrutiny until sunrise, and, if the weather be foul, throughout the day. The meeting and exchange of tokens is required, of course, only upon continuous beaches, or uninterrupted stretches of coast, where the stations average a distance of from three to five miles apart. At isolated stations the limits of the patrol are fixed by specific boundaries. Watching the beach is of cardi- nal importance, and neglect of the duty is punished by ban- ishment from service and prohibition of future employment. THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. jji The beach guardians are no idle promenaders. A march of four or rive miles through the soft sea-sand is a task at any time ; what is it in the fury of a winter storm? The prevalent strong winds, which must be en- countered in one direction or the other of the beat, drive before them rain, snow, hail, and sleet, or oftener sharp sand, which cuts the face until, smarting with pain, the patrolman turns and walks backward for relief. Such is the force of this natural sand-blast that it soon dulls the glass of the patrol lanterns, and at some of the more ex- posed stations has made ground-glass of the window-panes. In a snow-storm the ocean beach is the wildest of pathless deserts, and even by da3dight, shut out from prominent landmarks, the foam of the breaking surf alone serves to guide the panting patrolman on his way. Leaving it, he would wander helplessly among the sand-dunes that crown the beach. When the darkness of night is added, and his lantern, if not extinguished by the gale, but feebly lights his path through the slush of snow and sand, he strays and stumbles into pitfalls and quick-sands, to recover his way and accomplish his journey only through his life-long acquaintance with ever}^ foot of the ground. Sometimes, faihng in this, benumbed with cold and bewildered by his mishaps, he is found by his comrades in the snow insensi- ble, or perhaps dead. Then there come, fortunately not often, the blast of the hurricane and the inundation of the tidal wave, pregnant with terrors indescribable. These are the tornadoes which, inland, uproot trees, unroof and prostrate buildings, destroy flocks and herds, and create general havoc. On the beach the stations are sometimes torn from their strong foundation-posts and overset and borne away by the flood, the inmates escaping as best they can. The patrolman cannot stand up against the fury. Again and again he is overthrown as he struggles to reach the top of a sand-hill, his only refuge from the waters which rush upon the land and sweep through the 352 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. depressions between the hillocks, separating them into islets. In the memorable tempest of October 22 and 23, 1878, the patrolmen suffered severely, and several were in extreme peril. In one instance, a patrolman not returning in the morning, and his fellows not being able to discover him with their glasses from the look-out of the station, a boat expedition was sent in search of him among the still flooded sand-hills, upon one of which, nearly covered with water, he was at length found, barely alive. When a vessel is driven ashore in a storm, the patrol- LAUNCHING THE SURF-BOAT. man, being the first to discover her, takes the initiative steps in the operations for the rescue. He carries at night, besides his lantern, a signal, which ignited by percussion emits a red iiame. He is quick to observe the slightest indication of a disaster; the glimmer of a light, the white apparition of a sail, the faint outline of a slender spar just beyond the breakers, or at his feet on the strand perhaps a grating, a bucket, or some other article which he knows THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. "tSJ THE XIGHT PATROL. to have come from the ship. Then with all his faculties bent to the search, he descries a vessel either too close in for safety or actually stranded in the breakers, hi either case he burns his signal, whose crimson light flashes far out to sea, and warns the unwary ship to stand off, or 354 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. assures the shipwrecked that aid is near at hand. Being certain it is a wreck, he hurries to his station, perhaps a mile or two away. His hasty entrance is sufficient to arouse the slumbering inmates. Struggling for breath he makes his report, the nature of which determines to the keeper the means to be emplo3'ed for the rescue. If the surf-boat is to be taken, at the word of command the wide doors of the boat-room are thrown open and the boat-carriage drawn by willing hands rolls out bearing the graceful craft fully equipped for service. In the absence of horses, the burden must be hauled by the men, and their laborious task may be conceived, when it is stated that each man must drag nearly one hundred and eighty pounds through soft, yielding sand, whatever the distance may be between the station and the wreck, while one hun- dred and fifty pounds is the estimated load for a man to draw over a level turnpike. Arrived at the scene of the disaster, the boat is launched with as little delay as possible from a point opposite the wreck, in order to get the benefit of the slight breakwater which the position of the vessel affords, and is soon off and away on its errand of mercy. The height of human skill is required of the keeper, standing at the steering oar, to guide the boat safely m its passage through the wild running breakers. The surfmen, with their backs to the dangers lurking in the treacherous seas, do not go blindly to uncertain fate, for they rest their eyes continuously upon the keeper, while they ply their oars in obedience to his commands, and mark his slighest gesture. Their first attempt is not always successful. Despite every care, a suddenly leaping sea may break, and fill the boat, compel- ling a return to the shore, or capsize her, tumbling the men into the water, where they are tossed about in the surf, but are sustained by their cork life-belts until, making a foothold, they struggle to the beach, and righting the boat try again and perhaps a third or fourth time, before finally THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 355 reaching the wreck. Here the most careful manoeuvring is necessary to prevent collision of their light craft against the huge hull of the stranded vessel, or to avoid fatal in- jury from falling spars and floating wreckage. Taking off as best they can the anxious people, whom the overwhelm- ing seas have driven into the rigging of the vessel, per- haps fast going to pieces, the difficult return to the shore remains before them. The keeper must now decide upon one of the several methods of landing, as the nature of the sea may demand. Under favorable conditions he may run in immediately behind a roller, and by quick work keep well ahead of the following one, and so reach the beach in safety. With a different sea he may back in, occasionally pulling ahead to meet an incoming breaker; and again, for a worse sea he may use a drag to check the headway with which a swift rolling comber would otherwise carry the boat high upon its summit until a portion of the keel would be out of water, the bow high in the air and the stern still resting upon the crest, — from which position, on account of the slight hold the boat has in the water, the sea behind is liable, in spite of the efforts of the steersman, to turn it to the right or left, causing it to "broach to" and capsize, or if this be avoided, perhaps to be " pitch- poled," end over end. When the patrolman has reported at the station that the boat cannot be used, the mortar-cart is ordered out. Like the boat-carriage it must be drawn by the men, and though the load is somewhat hghter, the state of the sea or the weather increases the labor; the one compelhng them to take a route close to the low sand-hills in the wash and foam of the spent breakers, or back of the hills in the looser sand by a circuitous course, and the other harassing and retarding them with its fury. Reaching at length their destination, each man, well trained in his duties, pro- ceeds to handle and place in position the portion of the apparatus assigned to his special charge. Simultaneously S5(> GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. the different members of the crew load the gun, place the shot-line box in position, dispose the hauling lines and hawser for running, attach the breeches-buoy, put the tackles in place ready for hauling, and with pick and spade begin the digging of a trench for the sand-anchor, while the beach lantern lights up the scene. And now the gun is fired! The shot with its line goes flying against the gale, over the wreck into the sea beyond; the line falls across a friendly spar or rope, and is soon seized by the eager benumbed hands of the imperiled sailors, whose glad shouts, faintly heard on shore, make known to the life- savers their- success. The surfmen connect the whip (an endless line), the tail-block and tally-board to the shot-line already being hauled in by the impatient sailors. The whip ■ passes rapidl}' toward the BiKMNtT A Mi.NAL. wrcck, aud arriving there the sailors make fast the tail-block in accord- ance with the directions on the tally-board and show a signal to the shore. Hauling upon one part of the whip, the surfmen then send on board, attached to the other part, the hawser and a second tally-board, which directs how and where the end of the hawser should be THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 357 secured to the wreck. The tackles now connecting the sand-anchor and the shore end of the hawser are hauled upon until the hawser is straight and taut, when it is lifted several feet in the air, and further tightened by the erec- tion of a wooden crotch, which constitutes a temporary pier while the wreck answers for another, and the hawser stretched between the two suggests a suspension bridge in an early stage of construction with but one cable in place. The breeches-buoy is drawn to and fro upon the hawser, and by means of it the shipwrecked are brought safely to shore. This method is expeditious when once well in operation, but is frequently attended with difficulties which evoke every resource and expedient. Often in storms a strong swift current runs along the coast between the outer bar and the shore, called by the surfmen the "set" or "cut," which, in connection with the action of the surf, twists and entangles the lines, as the attempt is made to haul them across from shore to ship, or sweeps them away to a great distance, causing heavy strains that sometimes prove too much for their strength. Occasionally, when the appa- ratus is well set up for use, the motion of the wreck, as it is lifted and rolled about by the powerful seas, is so violent and constant that, even with the most watchful care, the strong lines snap and break asunder like pack- thread; and at times the careless or bungling manner in which those on board perform their part, allowing the shot-line or whip to saw across the stiff rigging of the vessel, or chafe against other portions of the wreck until it parts, hinders the work or altogether prevents success. Now and then, in extreme cold weather, the lines become rigid and clogged with ice as soon as they are exposed to the air when lifted out of the water; and again, unless proper care has been observed in the arrangement of the blocks and lines, the velocity with which the freighted ropes run through the blocks, may set on fire the wooden ..^■„.A. A:s^s^^-s!s,.^^.i^jsrifrmBiikkmiiapas tS ^ THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. j^g shells or cases that contain the sheaves or pulley-wheels. These mishaps and reverses tax the patience and resources of the surfmen to the utmost, and often put their courage to the severest test. The breaking of the lines involves the toil and delay of the duplication of their work, and perhaps the anxious suspense necessitated by a return to the station for spare lines. Sometimes it is found neces- sary to abandon altogether the use of the hawser, and to draw the people ashore through the water with the whip and breeches-buoy, or even without the latter, the ship- wrecked persons securing themselves into the whip by tying it around their bodies. In some of these contingen- cies people have been held suspended in the breakers or ensnarled in the floating cordage and debris of the vessel, and only extricated from their perilous positions by the most daring exploits of the surfmen, who have worked themselves out through the surf, and, at the most imminent risk of their own lives, released the helpless beings from their bonds, or disentangled them by severing the meshes with their knives, and returned, bearing their gasping tro- phies safely to the shore. Other accidents and obstacles are likely to embarass the efforts of the life-saving crews, who usually arrive at the scene of disaster exhausted by their wearisome march. The breeches-buoy, although it is an exceedingly useful contrivance for bringing men ashore, is hardly a suitable one for transporting women and children, or for rescuing a large number of persons with dispatch, or invalids whom it is necessary to protect from wet and exposure. In such cases the life-car is usually brought into requisition and used with the arrangement of ropes already described; or, as externally it is simply a covered boat, under favorable circumstances it may be drawn back and forth through the water by a line attached to each end. More frequently, however, it is connected with the hawser by a simple de- vice, in such a manner as to permit it to float upon the s6o GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. water, while preventing it from drifting, in strong currents, too far from a direct course for the length of the hauhng lines. The life-car is about two hundred pounds heavier than the breeches-buoy, and accordingly increases to that extent the burden of apparatus to be brought to the scene of a wreck; but it has sufficient capacity for five or six adults, and has carried, at a single trip, nine half-grown children. Practically water-tight, but provided with means for supplying air, its passengers are landed high and dry and without serious discomfort. The occasions of its use have been numerous, and in one notable instance — the wreck of the Ayreshire below Squan Beach, on the coast of New Jersey — two hundred and one persons were res- cued by it, when no other means could have availed. Silks, fine fabrics, jewelry, and other valuable goods have often been saved by its use, and from one vessel the car took ashore a large sum in gold bullion, belonging to the United States, together with the mails. The general features of the Lake and Pacific coast ad- mit of the use of the self-righting and self-bailing life-boat. On the Lakes the stations are situated, with few excep- tions, at, or very near, commercial towns, or cities having artificial harbors. These harbors are formed at the mouths of rivers by long piers projecting some distance into the lake. The passages between the piers are quite narrow and difficult to enter when high seas are running at right angles to them; thus vessels in attempting to go in are frequently thrown out of their course at the critical mo- ment, and are cast upon the end of the pier to quick destruction, or, escaping that danger, are driven ashore outside. Here the self-righting and self-bailing life-boat is used with good effect. This marvellous product of inven- tive thought, which has been developed by a century of study and experiment, from the first model, designed by the English coach-maker, Lionel Lukin, in 1780, is the best life-boat yet devised. It has great stability, and is THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 361 with difficulty upset, but when this happens, it instantly rights itself, and when full of water empties itself in from fifteen to twenty seconds. The attainment of the first of these wonderful qualities is secured by means of a heavy iron keel, weighing from six hundred to fifteen hundred pounds, according to the size of the boat, and two large air-chambers placed in the bow and stern — the keel, when the boat is capsized, being drawn by the force of gravitation back toward and into the water, while the submerged air-cham- bers seek the surface at the same moment. The property of self-bailing is produced by the insertion of a deck or floor, some inches above the load- line, in which there are placed several tubes ex- tending down through the bottom of the boat, fitted with valves at the top, which open downward by the pressure of any water in the boat, and are self- closing when the press- ure ceases. The draugrht and great weight which the construction of such a boat involves — the smallest weighs scarcely less than four thousand pounds — generally precludes its use, as has been stated, along the sand}'^ flat beaches of the Atlantic. The Lake stations being inside the harbors and fronting directly upon, or over comparatively smooth and sufficiently deep water, the heavy boats launched directly from their ways, are propelled by eight oars, or towed by a tug-boat out SURFiMAN WITH LIFE-BELT. 362 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. between the piers to the rescue. Not unfrequently, just before navigation is suspended by winter on the Lakes, a single life-saving crew is employed upon several vessels at a time. Recently four wrecks occupied half a station crew in the vicinity of their station on the same day, while the remainder were at work on a fifth, forty miles away, whither they had been transported by rail, on a special train secured for the occasion. It is a common occurrence for the life-boats to go under sail and oars ten or twelve miles from their stations to the assistance of vessels in dis- tress. On the Pacific coast, where the prevailing gales blow along and not upon the shore, and where there are few outlying dangers, and these at long intervals apart, coast disasters are comparatively rare, and it has been deemed necessary to provide for the establishment of but eight stations. With one exception, these are at points where the self-righting and self-bailing life-boat is available. But the work of the crews does not always end with the rescue. The pressing necessities of the moment admin- istered to, the sufferers are led, supported, or carried, as their condition will admit, to the station, which is quickly transformed into a hospital. The neglected fire is replen- ished with fuel; the kitchen stove soon glows with heat; the plethoric clothes-bags and well-filled chests of the surf- men are opened, and dry clothing is put upon all that need it; snow and cold water, and afterward scrapings of raw potatoes from the mess stores, are applied to the frost-bitten; the prostrated are put to bed in the extra cots provided in the upper rooms, and tenderly tucked in by rough hands, suddenly grown gentle; the medicine chest, filled with simple remedies and restoratives, is opened, and stimulants dispensed to the exhausted, while plasters, lint, and bandages are applied to those who have been bruised and wounded by the wreckage. Meanwhile, shipwrecked and surf men are inhaling the delicious aroma of boiling coffee, which the mess-cook deems it his first duty to pre- THE life-saving SERVICE. 363 pare. This having been partaken of, the keeper designates the least weary of the crew to attend to the wants of the strangers, while the others retire for rest until required to relieve the watch. Occasionally, in the exigencies of ship-wreck, persons reach the shore senseless and seemingly without life. That the surfmen may be able to act intelligently in such cases, the regulations of the service contain plain directions for FIRING THE MORTAR. the application of a simple method for restoring the appar- ently drowned, in which the men are regularly practiced, according to the instructions of a medical officer of the Marine Hospital Service, who visits the stations once a 3^ear as a member of the board for the examination of the keepers and crews, as to their physical and professional qualifications. The principal features of the method are indicated by the cuts on page 374, one showing the first S64 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Step taken, by which the chest is emptied of air, and the ejection of any fluids that may have been swallowed is assisted; and the other the position and action of the oper- ator, in alternately producing artificial expiration and inspi- ration, in imitation of natural breathing, which may be expected to ensue if the patient is not really dead. There are many appliances auxiliary to the principal means employed in the operations of the service, of which space will not permit present notice. The life-saving dress, however, which has been made familiar to the public through the exploits and expeditions of Paul Boyton, is one of considerable importance, and on several occasions has been used with great advantage. At the stranding of a schooner in the night on Lake Ontario last year, in a sea which would not admit of the use of the boat, a shot- line was fired over her, with the intention of setting up the lines for the use of the breeches-buoy. The sailors hauled the whip-line on board, and when the tally-board, on which the directions for the method of procedure are printed in English on one side and French on the other, was received, the captain attempted by the light of the lantern to read them. Puzzling over them for some time, he at length contemptuously threw the board down on the deck, finding it impossible to make anything of it, having seen only the French side. Not knowing what else to do, therefore, he simply made the line fast, but in such a manner that it could not be worked from the shore. The surfmen vainly endeavored to convey instructions by signs. In the mean- time, the destruction of the vessel and the loss of all on board seemed imminent. In this dilemma, one of the surf- men put on the life-saving dress, and, after a gallant strug- gle, succeeded in hauling himself along the line through the breakers to the vessel, where he remained and took charge of the operations on board until all were safely landed. On another occasion three sailors, in spite of the warning signals of the life-saving crew, committed the com- THE LI FES A VING SER VICE. 3^5 BREECHES-BUOY APPARATUS IN OPERATION. "HAUL AWAY !" mon error of attempting to land in one of the ship's boats. A strong current was running between the ship and the beach, and the water was full of porridge-ice for a long distance from the shore. Knowing what would happen, two of the surfmen put on their life-saving dresses and ran up the beach, with difficulty maintaining their race with the boat, which continued for the distance of two miles, until reaching an open space in the ice, the sailors attempted to land, when they were capsized in the surf, 366 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. but were rescued from drowning by the surf- men, who rushed into the breakers and safely dragged them ashore. Clad in the life-saving dress, the wearer pre- sents a strange appear- ance, and to an uniniti- ated observer he might seem, while engaged in his weekly practice, to be some amphibious monster, disporting one moment in the water and the next on land. Sometimes in cold weather, a surfman thus arrayed, goes on some errand from the station to the mainland, his route being an air-line across deep sloughs or creeks and wet marshes for two or three miles. A surfman once going from an outlying beach in his life-saving dress, had just crossed a THE BREECHES BUOY. wldC SlOUgh, aud Hs- ing suddenly among the reeds on its muddy banks, be- held two snipe shooters a hundred yards away, gazing in undisguised astonishment. "I seen they was mighty skeered," said he, "and took me for the devil or some other sea varmint, so I beginned to cut up and prance round like a yearlin' calf in a two-acre medder, a-yellin' THE LI FES A VING SER VICE. jdy and a-screechin' all the time as loud as I could holler, and ye 'd jest orter seen them fellers scoot fur the cedars. I guess they's runnin' yit." To a doubting Thomas who asked, "But whar was their guns all this time?" he re- plied: "Pshaw! them fellers never knowed they had no guns." The hunters' version of the adventure has never reached the beach, but it may be easily imagined. When the life-saving dresses were first introduced into the service, the surfmen regarded them with as little favor as they usually manifest for any innovation upon the simple devices and methods which were transmitted to them from their fathers, especially as regards appliances for their own safety, such as life-belts and cork jackets. They prefer to rely upon their skill and endurance as swimmers, with unencumbered limbs and bodies. Probably, also, a certain degree of pride disinclines them to wear anything that might suggest the least suspicion of a faint heart. For a long time, to insure their use in the face of these preju- dices, firm and judicious measures on the part of the offi- cers of the service were required, and the life-belts were not willingly donned by the men throughout the service until they had been taught a sad lesson, by the capsizing of a surf-boat and the loss of the crew, who had gone to a wreck at night without them. Only recently, a brave volunteer, on taking an oar in a station boat, in a danger- ous sea on Cape Cod, was proffered a spare life-belt but declined it saying : " Oh, no ! I don't want to go floating by Highland Light carrying a deck load of cork." The Hfe-belt is manufactured from selected cork, and is so ad- justed that the wearer has free use of his limbs in any position. Its buoyancy is sufficient to support two men in the water. Since its adoption by the men, none have been drowned, although many have been thrown into the water by capsized boats. The fife-saving men, of course, must have their hours of relaxation. Among the people of the coast, more than j68 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. elsewhere, perhaps, a pronounced religious sentiment pre- vails; hence, carousing and gaming and other immoralities are rarely indulged in. Especially is this true at the sta- tions, where prohibitory regulations add their restraint. Each station is provided with a substantial library, of well- selected books, the donations of generous people, with the view of contributing to the diversion of the crews and the solace of the victims of shipwreck who may be temporarily THE SELF-RIGHTING LIFE-BOAT. detained there. These libraries are the source of much entertainment and instruction to the men. In fine, clear weather, when the wind is off shore, and there is little occasion for anxiety, the surfmen gather in the mess-room and while away the time rehearsing the legends of the coast, spinning yarns, singing or listening to the tuneful strains of violin or flute. Now and then when the moon is full, there is a "surprise party" at the station. From THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. s6g the mainland or the neighboring settlements come men and women, the friends and relatives of the surfmen, bringing cakes and pastries, and other good things from their homes. Then all is joy unconfined; the boat-room is cleared of carriage and cart, and the merry dance goes round. Do not imagine, however, that in these festivities the patrol is relaxed. Not at all, the rule is inflexible, and its violation would be discovered. Indeed, who knows that the beach watch is not then doubled and that, with wife or sweetheart to share his vigils, the patrolman yearns not for the pleasures at the station ? A mute but interested spectator of the entertainment is perhaps a Newfoundland dog. These noble animals, whose good qualities are so well known, are kept at many of the stations and they often seem instinctively to understand the object of the service, to which they soon become faithfully attached. The celebrated picture of Landseer, entitled "A Distinguished Member of the Humane Society," will read- ily be recalled by the reader. One remarkable illustration which the service furnishes of the characteristics of this sagacious animal is worthy of note. At the sad disaster to the steamship Metropolis on the coast of North Carolina, while the life-saving men were engaged in rescuing the crowd of passengers thrown into the sea by the breaking up of the vessel, a large Newfoundland dog belonging to a gentleman residing in the vicinity, seemed suddenly to com- prehend the situation, and joining the throng of rescuers, plunged into the surf, seized a drowning man, and dragged him safely ashore. Shortly afterward he left his master and went to the station of the crew with whom he ren- dered this first service in life-saving, and there he still re- mains, steadily resisting every inducement to return to his former master. Every alternate night he sets out with one of the first patrol and accompanies him until the patrolman from the next station below is met, when he joins the lat- ter and proceeds with him to that station, where he re- 370 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. mains until the first watch of the next night, when he returns to his own station in the same manner. These self-assumed duties he performs with the peculiar gravity of demeanor that distinguishes his species, changing his station daily, for some good and sufficient dog-reason, no doubt, while very sensibly keeping but one watch each night. The plan of the organization of the service is simple but effective. The coast-line is divided into twelve districts, THE SELF-RIGHTING LIFE-BOAT UNDER SAIL. there being eight on the Atlantic coast, three on the Lakes, and one on the Pacific. , In each of these the sta- tions are distinguished by numbers, from one upward, be- ginning at the most northerly or easterly. Each district is under the immediate charge of a superintendent, who must be a resident thereof, and familiar with the character and peculiarities of its coast-line. He nominates the keepers of the stations, makes requisition for needed supplies, etc., and pays the crews their wages. To each district is also THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 37' assio-ned an inspector, who is the commanding officer of the revenue cutter whose cruising grounds embrace the limits of the district. These officers, under the direction of a chief inspector, who is also an officer of the Revenue Marine, make stated inspections and drill the crews. The entire service is under the charge and management of a general superintendent, whose office is a bureau of the Treasury Department. All the officers of the service are invested with the powers of customs officers, which enable them to protect the interests of the government in prevent- ing smugghng, and assisting in securing the collection of duties upon dutiable wrecked goods. They are also required to guard wrecked property until the owners or their agents appear. The officers and men of the service are chosen without reference to any other consideration than those of profes- sional fitness and integrity. In the introduction and main- tenance of this principle of selection much opposition and diffiiculty have been encountered. In the older districts, owing to the fact that until 187 1 the keepers of stations were regarded only as custodians of public property, with- out responsibility in the success or failure of efforts at wrecks, surfmanship was not a standard of quahfication, and these positions were generally made the rewards of political service by each of the parties, as they alternately succeeded to power ; and so, when the employment of crews was authorized, the local politicians endeavored to control the appointment of these also. Their success soon became only too evident, and it was to counteract these injurious influences that the board of examination already mentioned was constituted. A thorough inspection of the service was made ; every station was visited, the incompe- tent were dismissed, and qualified men were employed in their places. The advantageous changes in the corps some- what altered its political complexion, and the nullification of the effort to subordinate the service to poHtical ends was 37^ GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. not quietly accepted. Threats and appeals were in turn resorted to, to overcome the determination of those in charge of the service. Upon the establishment of new districts, similar attempts to gain control of them are gen- erally made, but they are not so tenaciousl}^ persisted in. These attempts are not confined to the party in power. No sooner is a keeper appointed from the oppo- sition than he is beset with solicita- tions and demands to remember his party friends. The offi- cial injunction, however, issued ■.r\ LIFE-SAVING DRESS. TALLY-BOARD AND WHIP-BLOCK. yearly, at the commencement of the season, to the superin- tendents and keepers, that only capability and worth are to be regarded in the choice of their subordinates, supple- mented by the action of the examining board, keeps the service well exempt from political domination. THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. jyj But, it will be asked, what results have been attained by the service? At this writing, (1880), the last published report is that of the fiscal year ending June 30th, 1878. From this it appears that during that year there were 171 disasters to vessels within the limits of the operations of the service. There were on board these vessels 1,557 persons. The number of lives saved was 1,331, the num- ber lost 226, and the number of days' succor afforded to shipwrecked persons at the stations was 849. Of the 226 lost, 183 perished in the disasters to the steamers Huron and Metropolis, the former occurring four days prior to the manning of the stations, which the appropriations for the maintenance of the service did not then permit to take place until the first of December, and the latter occurring at a distance so remote from the nearest station as to ren- der prompt aid impossible; — defects which the reports of the service had repeatedly pointed out, and asked to have remedied. The loss of fourteen others occurred where the stations were not open. Making allowance for these, the loss of life legitimately within the scope of life-saving operations, was twenty-nine. The sad catastrophes of the Huron and Metropolis contributed largely in securing the passage of the effective bill of June, 1878, which was in- troduced and warmly advocated by Hon. S. S. Cox, and which established the service on a stable basis, with pow- ers and functions somewhat commensurate with its pur- poses and capabilities. From November, 1871, the date of the inauguration of the present system, to the 30th of June, 1878, the number of disasters stated to have occurred within the field of operations of the service was 578; the number of persons on board the vessels involved was 6,287; the number saved was 5,981; the number lost 306, and the number of days' relief afforded to shipwrecked persons at the stations, 3,716. It should be observed that during the first of these seven years the service was limited to the coasts of Long Island 374 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. RESUSCITATION: EJECTING WATER FROM BODY. and New Jersey; the two following years, to those coasts, with the addition of Cape Cod; the next year to the fore- going, with the addition of the coasts of New England and the coast from Cape Henry to Cape Hatteras; the next, RESUSCITATION: RESTORING RESPIRATION. to the foregoing, with the addition of the coast from Cape Henlopen to Cape Charles; the next, to all the foregoing, with the addition of Florida and the lake coasts; and the last year, to the coast at present included. It is not claimed that the entire number of persons des- THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 375 ignated in the above figures as saved would have perished but for the aid of the life-saving crews, since not unfre- quently, in cases of shipwreck by stranding, a portion of the imperiled succeed in escaping to the shore, as did sev- eral in the instance of the Huron; and it often happens that the sudden subsidence of the sea spares the threatened vessels from destruction. But it is certain that a large proportion of the number would have perished. A closer approximation to the real efficacy of the service could be reached, if statistics of the loss of life in former years upon the coasts where life-saving stations are now estab- lished could be obtained. Unfortunately no such record exists, except an im- perfect one, consist- ing of meagre data relative to disasters be- tween 1850 and 1870 in the vicinity of the rude station-huts of the Lono- Island and New Jersey coasts. It is known that this record by no means includes near all the dis- medicine chest, asters which occurred on lanterns, etc. these coasts. A comparison, however, of the record of the service since 1871 with this list shows an average annual reduction in the loss of life of about eighty-seven per cent! The record is a shining one. How much of it is due to official organization may readily be conceived, but it is less easy to realize how much of it belongs to the gallant crews of the stations, some of whose hardships, together with the methods they employ, the foregoing pages dis- close. The professional skill of these men, their unfaltering energy and endurance, their steady bravery in the hour of supreme ordeal, and at all times their sober fidelity to duty, 37(> GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. however hard or irksome, are beyond all tribute. None can better know it than the officers in charge of the ser- vice, whose main reliance must be, after all, upon the manly virtue of these crews. What, indeed, can ever stand in lieu of men! Many things are yet needed in aid of the labors of the crews. Numerous articles of outfit and equipment are re- quired, which the appropriations, so far, have not been sufficient to provide; an imperative need is an additional man for each station; at present, when a wreck occurs, the station is left without a proper custodian, who would thus be provided to guard the public property and to keep the house in the state of comfortable preparation befitting the return from a rescue of the exhausted crew, with a convoy of drenched, frozen, wounded, and famished people. In. the routine of station duty, another man would also greatly relieve the others, now too severely tasked. An- other urgent requirement at many of the stations is horses, which Congress should provide. The heavy draught labors involved in hauling a ponderous load of apparatus for miles to a wreck would thus be spared the men, giving them time and strength for their daring and perilous work of rescue. Another need, surely, is pensions for those who are permanently disabled in the line of their duty, and for the widows and orphans of those who perish in the en- deavor to save life from shipwreck. The guns trained to destroy life in the service of the country carry this grate- ful condition. The guns trained to save life, no less in the service of the country, have an equal right to carry it also. What soldiers have a better claim to this form of public remembrance than the noble beachmen who surrender life, as did those in North Carolina, in 1876, when endeavoring to rescue the sailors of the Nuova Ottavia? In the thought of this deed let us close. A gallant soul whose name honors the roll of the Life-Saving Service, once said: "When I see a man clinging to a wreck, I see THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 377 nothing else in the world, and I never think of family and friends, until I have saved him," It is certain that this is the spirit which pervades the- men of the coast. All report, all record testifies to it, and every winter their deeds sublimely respond to the divine declaration : " Greater love hath no man than this, that a man la}- down his life for his friends." THE MESS-ROOM, "WHEN THE WIND IS OFF SHORE." 37B GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. CORRESPONDENCE. The correspondence following, having occurred since the publication of the "Winter Talks," I have deemed it advisable to append it to the work without disturbing the previous arrangement. The letters that I have received from the several station keepers fully illustrate the benefit of their mission, and give the reader an insight into the quality of those composing the service. They are men of pluck, daring and intelligence, and bring to their work excellent seamanship and sound judgment, as well as humanity, to make it effective. Those who have little to report are as efficient and ready for service as those who by chance are called to report more — their turn likely to occur at any moment. Capt. A. L. Remick, keeper of Rye Beach Station, thus writes : The schooner Rockaway, a small vessel of about 40 tons, left York, Me., about noon, Dec. 23, with a cargo of bricks, bound for Boston. Wind N. W., light; thermoineter 40° below, and a thick vapor. Everything went vvell until about midnight, but when near Thatcher's Island the wind sud- denly shifted to S. E., with a heavy sea on, and finding he would not weather Cape Ann, the captain bore away for Portsmouth. During the night the wind blew away some of his sails and the sea sent his boat adrift, the vessel leaking badly. When about four miles from Portsmouth, took the wind from N. N. E., and in the crippled condition the vessel was it be- came necessary to anchor her three-quarters of a mile from shore, and two and a half miles from this station. As it was misty and thick we could not see the vessel from the station, but a man who lived on the beach, near by, saw her at anchor, with signal of distress flying, and, coming to this station, notified us of the fact. We at once run the surf boat down the beach. There was a tremendous sea rvmning, but we launched the boat, and in at- tempting to get over the inner bar a heavy sea partly filled the boat, break- ing the twenty-two foot steering oar, and knocking the keeper (G. B. Cas- well) down into the bottom of the boat, compelling him to return to the shore. Holding a council, we decided that it would be quicker and surer to get a team and haul the boat to Rye Harbor, one mile to the eastward of the THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. jjg station, and launch from there, as it was getting late in the afternoon. We launched the boat in Rve Harbor, with comparatively smooth water, but soon encountered the heavy sea again after passing a point of land, but after a hard pull of one hour and a half, against a head wind and heavy sea, we arrived at the wreck, from which we took Capt. Kingsbury, his wife and fifteen year old son, who constituted the crew, returning with them safely to Rye Harbor, from which the Captain's wife was conveyed to the station in a team, the others remaining by the boat. We did not reach the station till after dark, where the three were provided for for. two days. Next morning, the sea having subsided somewhat, the vessel was still above water, and we again launched our boat and went to her. She had two and a half feet of water in her hold, but as she had a powerful pump we soon freed her, and then started for Portsmouth, in a surf-boat, to procure a tug to take her in. This we succeeded in doing, and, after again pumping her out, she was towed safely into Portsmouth, thus saving vessel, cargo and crew." Capt. J. H. Haley, Keeper Hunnewell Point, Maine, Sta- tion, sends me the following, which covers a period of great activity, and affords convincing argument of the great benefit of the system: "This station was ready for duty Jan. 14, 1884, and since that time we have rendered assistance to fourteen vessels, besides three that were warned off the coast by the burning of the Coston night-signal. We have rendered assistance to light-keepers in several ways, in one instance suppressing fire, and three small boats have been aided. The fourteen vessels imperiled were valued at $148,000, their cargoes at $10,675. The following were the vessels aided, and the nature of the assistance rendered: Jan. 19, 1884, the three masted schooner Electric Lig-Jif, from Philadelphia for Bath, Me., with a cargo of coal, anchored between Seguin and Pond Island light, and a gale from N. N. E. having arisen, in attempting to get under weigh, her anchor broke ground, with a long scope, exposing her to peril. We launched the surf-boat and went to her assistance, heaving up anchor and furling sails, leaving her to be towed to Bath by the Eastport cutter, that had come to her assistance but could not render any owing to the violence of the gale. March i, 1884, the Br. schooner Astra, of St. Johns, N. B., bound to that port from Lynn, Mass., light, made the breakers in a thick snow storm, the vessel just clearing the rocks, when the anchor was dropped. When the snow lifted we saw the vessel and went out to her. Found the crew all packed up and ready to leave when the worst should happen. Went on board, cleared the deck of snow, furled up the sails, and made things as comfortable as could be under the circumstances. The vessel lay all right, and when the wind subsided she went on her wa}'. My men got somewhat rost-bitten, as it was very cold. j8o GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. April 22, 1S84, the schooner Cockeco, of Deer Island, Maine, for Rockland, with a cargo of cord-wood from Cape Small Point, Phipsburg, signaled for assistance. Her sails had blown away and she was leaking badly. Mended the sails, and went with the schooner to Boothbaj, where we left her with thanks of her crew. The next one aided was the schooner Agnes R. Bacon, of Brighton, N. J., bound to Philadelphia, Pa., from the Kennebec with a cargo of ice. She broke adrift in the night and struck some sunken rocks called the Black Jacks. We went on board, and, knowing she would fill as soon as the tide flowed, went to work at once to take everything in the cabin to the shore. When the tide flowed, got the vessel off the rocks, and a steam tug towed her to Portland, Me., for repairs. The schooner Katie Mitchell, of Bath, loaded with cord-wood for Boston, while beating out of the river miss-stayed and went ashore on the Lower Sugar Loaf. The steamer Knickerbocker, after considerable trying, failed to release her. It being in the inactive season, it was some time before I could pick up my men, as they were all fishing. I found three, who, with mvself, went on board the vessel, which was pounding the bottom hard. We went to work, and in one hour had her afloat. Tried the pumps and found her tight, when the captain proceeded on his way, well pleased with what we had done; Sept. 10, 1884, the Charles E. Balch, a four master schooner, of Bath, light,, on her wav up the Kennebec for ice, anchored off the beach just above this station. There came a heavy squall from the east, which drove her ashore. We launched our boat and run hawsers from the vessel to a steamboat, by which she was towed to a safe anchorage. While launching the boat one of my men got badly hvirt, from which he has not yet recovered. The Sloop Gnll, while trying to get out of the river, ran on the rocks, keeled off, and would have filled if we had not kept constantly bailing with buckets. She was a little vessel, worth only about $600, but she was all her captain owned in the world, and of more consequence to him than would have been a full-rigged ship to others. We meet, in the discharge of our duties, some very peculiar people. Some appear to appreciate the service rendered, while others watch us with most crafty suspicion. Oct. 19, 18S4, the schooner James Barrett, of Gardiner, while beating into the river, missed in stays, and went on the rocks at Parker's Point. We went on board, ran out a kedge anchor, and warped the vessel to safe anch- orage. Oct. 21, 1884, a brig ran on the bar in the night. We went on board, got out anchors, and soon had her in a safe position. Nov. 6, 1884, three-masted schooner J. F. Merrotvs, of Boston, anchored off this station at twelve, midnight, the wind blowing a gale from the west. She struck adrift and went down on the Jacks. The captain burnt his torch for help, to which the watch replied with his Coston night-signal. We launched our boat and went to him. The vessel lay in a hard place, and it was seen that she must be kept from the Lower Shug, or Cape, if possible. We ran out a kedge and got lines to the rocks to hold her from going on THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 381 the Shug. This was done with great difficulty, as the sea deluged my men and and myself, and the night was very cold. The wind held more to the north, and the sea went down with the ebb tide, when we parted our kedge anchor hawser and the lines attached to the rocks. The only thing to be done was to make sail and keep the vessel if possible from a breaking ledge under her port quarter. We succeeded in keeping her in this position until the tide commenced to flow, when she was towed to Bath. The captain was happy at his escape, and gave us a letter of thanks for our timely services. Nov. 32, boarded the schooner Isabella., of Wiscasset, which we found in a bad condition, with jib-boom gone, and main topmast and spring stay. Let- ting the mast hang over the stern we went into the cabin where we found one man sick and another trying to get some breakfast. We asked the cap- tain how he carried away his spars. He said the vessel " rolled them away in the night," which did not seem probable. We asked if he wanted assist- ance. He said he did, as his best man was sick and not able to do anything. Went to work, clearing away the broken spars, and, getting up a temporary sparing stay, we hove up anchor and got the vessel into the river out of all danger. In about three weeks the schooner came out again, loaded with slab-wood for Boston, but when off Cape Elizabeth was abandoned and drifted on Beach Island, Fletcher's Neck, bottom up. Dec. 12, 1884, the schooner Alice Oakes, of Portland, Me., from Bath for New York, with a cargo of lumber, while trying to get out of the river, found herself in a dangerous position near the Jacks, and lost one of her anchors; went on board and helped her out of her trouble, when she went on her way. The sloop Alice, of Bath, Me., for Portland, with a load of furniture, when off Seguin was dismasted. We saw the accident and went to her assistance. We got the broken mast on board and as much of the sail as we could by raising up the gaff, when the svirf-boat, with her sail set, towed the sloop with a fair wind, to Harmond's Harbor, the nearest place that could be reached, where we cut the mast over and stepped it again, set up the rig- ging, and left the sloop in a better condition for carrying sail than before. The last one to call for our services was the schooner Orina B. Kimball that left Portland on the i8th of Jan., '85, for Boothbay with a general cargo. When off Halfway Rock she jibed her foresail, which took the foremast off about half wav up. The wind continued to blow until it had increased to a gale. The vessel was kept before the wind, with a little bit of the mainsail, the only sail that could be made on her, and when off the Black Rocks, the captain, thinking the vessel was going ashore, let go both anchors, and fetched the schooner up just clear of the breakers. The crew then left her to her fate, and landed at Fire Island Harbor, more or less frost-bitten. They got a man to come to this station for assistance, who arrived at 4 o'clock in the morning. We launched the boat and immedi- ately went in search of the schooner. We found her as she had been left, with chances looking hard for our having the vessel and cargo. The sails were all torn to pieces, and broken spars lay all around the decks, with a coating of ice about three inches thick over everything. We went to work 48 3S2 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. with a will, beat off tlie ice, cleared awaj' the rigging, spars and sails, run the fore gaff up the mast, (jaws up) with tackle attached, hoisted throat of foresail, lifting the peak bj a block in the lee main rigging, making all as taut as we could. Then the anchors were got in and the vessel headed for Boothbay. We got a little more of the mainsail on her, and arrived all right. When the captain and crew came on board the first thing they did was to go down in the cabin and see that nothing had been stolen — a pot of beans that had been baking in the oven being the only thing missing. The captain was grateful enough to say that he felt "much obliged" to us for saving his vessel and cargo, valued at $5,000. I asked him for a letter ex- pressing his thanks for our services, which he said he would write, but it has not been received yet. On board of these fourteen vessels there were seventy-nine persons, with two women passengers, all of whom were saved. The following is by a correspondent of The Bath, Me., Independent : A STRUGGLE WITH THE WAVES. I was summoned Tuesday, Jan. 25th, to go to Seguin to see Mr. Abbott, the second light keeper, at about one o'clock p. m., by Capt. Parker Haley and a Mr. Barton, a keeper on Seguin. The wind was breezing up south- west quite fresh at the time. I went with them from the lower part of Georgetown in a dory across to Fort Popham. We left the wharf there at about half past two o'clock in the life-boat with Capt. John Haley and five of his crew, Warren Davis, Ephraim Marr, Will Haley, Cyrus L. Oliver, Zina H. Spinney, also the first keeper, Mr. Henry Day, and wife. The ebb tide was setting out quite strong and the wind increasing every moment. We had a not very rough passage on to the island, except occasionally we were wet with a little spray. We were there nearly an hour, and left for our trip home not far from 3:45 o'clock. Meanwhile the wind had risen to a gale from the southwest and the tide was running out of the river at its greatest strength, making a tremendous sea. The Captain put up sail and we started before it to run for Stage Island. We were fairly flying over the water, when I saw the Captain throw overboard a canvas bag attached to a long line, which they told me was a drag to keep her steady, and I noticed that he had every man at his post, and that each man had got out his knife, and had a hatchet laid near by to cut with. We had now gotten out into the sea about half way from Seguin to Pond Island. Every man stood firm at his post, with an eye on the seas as they rose and fell and foamed all ai-ound us like so many demons, threatening every moment to swallow us up in their madness. Orders were promptly obeyed, and every nerve put on the strain. I sat about midships watching the seas. First we were riding on the top of one about fifteen or twenty feet high and then down between them, and they about the same distance above us. Presently one broke over our boat and partly filled it. They let go the sail, and part of the crew THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 383 went to bailing for life with the buckets, which were cut from their lashings in a twinkling. The others held her steady. Before she rallied from that we looked astern and there towered above us a sea nearly Wenty-five feet in height, which rolled above us until about amidships and then came down on us with a roar which seemed to say to us all, "Now we have got you!" com- pletely engulfing the men and boat at one time. Our boat was full of water. For a moment she was overpowered, but she again rallied and the water was quickly bailed out. We got our sail in place again, and once more all took a breath of relief. One second's time of mismanagement and we should all have been lost. No one could have got to our relief. The Captain said it was the roughest time that they had ever had. They managed the boat grandly, and she is a noble boat. In a short time they landed me at Martin Todd's shore. They were a wet, and at the same time a happy crew. The people ashore watching us with glasses, thought we had gone down for the last time. None of us ever expected to again reach land. O. M. Kingsbury, M. D. Captain Freeman Shea, keeper of White-Head Station, thus writes to me, Feb. 9, 1885: "We are having a pretty hard winter here, with sudden changes and severe cold weather, and now there is ice for two miles in either direction. The boys have had their faces and ears frozen a little several times, but they don't seem to mind it much. Regarding our work in this service, we have had so many disasters that I hardly know what to select as an example. One incident I may, however, relate that did not find its way into the annual report of 1884. On Nov. 26, 1883, the British schooner Emma E. Potter, 146 tons, of Annapolis, N. S., bound from Clemmonsport, N. S. to Boston, Mass., with a cargo of wood and fish and a crew of six men, stranded on Grind- stone Ledge, about eight miles E. N. E. of this station, at 2:30 p. m. The patrolman discovered her at the same time, and promptly reported the disas- ter to the keeper. It was then blowing strong from the southeast, with a heavy sea. The weather was dark and cloudy, and every indication of a storm and gale. The new surf-boat was launched at once, and after pulling about a mile to the windward, so the sail would draw, we set the sail, and, under sail and oars, arrived at the wreck a little past 4 p. m. The wind at this time had increased to a strong gale. Found the vessel, with a signal of distress tlving, rolling and striking heavily on the ledge and leaking badly. Had some difficulty in boarding her, as the sea was breaking heavily all around her. The vessel's boat had been cleared away with the intention of leaving her, but as the boat had become partly filled, the crew did not dare to leave for fear of swamping. After listening to the captain's story — (which was, that he was part owner of the vessel, and his share in her was all the property he had in the world; that he had spent nearly a lifetime upon the ocean to accumulate this, and it was hard to lose it, and, being entirely unac- quainted with the coast, gave the vessel up to the keeper to do what he 384 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. thought best) as the schooner appeared good and strong, it was decided to remain on board until she floated and save her if possible. So the first thing done was to reef the mainsail and hoist it, to keep her steady and prevent her from rolling and staving on the rocks, which had the desired effect for a while. The pumps were manned, and for three hours she could just be kept free. Then the water commenced gaining, and at 8 p. m. there was three feet of water in the hold. It was raining, the wind blowing a perfect gale, a high sea running, and the vessel striking heavily upon the rocks, when the captain wished to leave her, but the keeper told him that affairs were no worse than had been expected, and if we left now our work would be all for nothing; that the vessel would float or stave up in a short time, and we could then de- cide what to do. At about 8:30 she washed over the ledge and floated. All sail was set that she could bear, which was but little, she being half full of water and the sea breaking over her. It was then so thick and dark with rain that we could not see more than the length of the vessel. The keeper took the helm, and, placing two of his men on the lookout, managed to run her in, through a narrow crooked channel, upon the flats in a sheltered part of Owl's Head Harbor. We ran hawsers to the shore, made her well fast and fvirled sails. The vessel was then full of water, but could sink no deeper, as she was hard on bottom. It was now midnight and the life-saving crew were nine miles from the station, the gale preventing their reaching it, and, being wreary, all laid down on the cabin floor until morning. Capt. Jones was very grateful and thanked the crew for the service they had done him, saying that without their assistance his vessel, cargo, and probably the lives of all on board would have been lost. The vessel was worth about $9 000 and it cost but a few hundreds to repair damages. At daylight it was blow- ing a gale from northwest, with snow squalls. The life-saving crew left the vessel for the station where they arrived at 9:30 A. M." Capt. Myers, of Quoddy Head Station, gives the follow- ing thrilling description of the " most dangerous work he ever engaged in " during his experience in the service : " On a cold morning in December my patrol reported a schooner dragging ashore on Duck Pond Ledge, at the entrance of Quoddy Bay, the wind at the time blowing south with a heavy sea. We were obliged to haul our boat about half a mile before we could launch. After launching we pulled down under the lee of the land, in smooth water, for a mile, when we got the wind and sea from Quoddy Head, the wind carrying us straight down to the ves- sel. Our boat fairly flew across the bay, the sea increasing. On approach- ing the vessel, it was suggested by one of the men that our boat would not come about in such a wind and sea without swamping. I told the crew on the port oars to be ready to swing the boat when I gave the word. I watched my chance and gave the order, when she went around like a top and met the first sea head on, or nearly so, without shipping any water. I saw by the faces of my men that all felt better after this first trial had passed. THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 385 I then dropped down to the vessel very carefully. The spars had been cut away and were lying alongside with rigging attached, the crew trying to clear the wreck. I gained the starboard side and threw the heaving stick on board. The crew eagerly caught the line and hauled our painter in. I ordered them to take our line aft and let the boat drop astern. Then hauled in as close as I dared, and, using the speaking trumpet, asked the captain if he wished to leave the vessel. He replied that he did not, but his crew did. I told him I could not take his men unless he came with them, and they must make up their minds quickly. Finding me in earnest he said he would come, and the crew made a rush for the main-boom, that was hanging over the stern, to get into the boat. I shoved clear and told them to wait till I saw the way clear to save ourselves before receiving them. I stood in the stern of the boat and watched for some time for a passage through the ledges, where the sea did not break, and at last found one. I then called the men to rig a line from the end of the main-boom and come one at a time, and I would haul in and get them. First came the colored cook, crying, next a Dutchman nearly dead with fright, then Jack, a boy, who seemed to think it fun to be taken from the vessel in the Life-Service boat, and last the captain and mate. In the meantime my men had rigged a slipline to the vessel so that we could slip and go in a moment. I then had each one placed so as to trim the boat just right, and then told my men that they must pull about three hundred yards to windward to reach the shore safely, otherwise the chance was slim. The line was let go and we were off. It was a hard pull, but we cleared the breakers a short distance from the point, and then dashed on before the wind through a narrow channel, between two ledges, about a boat's length wide, going safely through, then over a second reef, and when about three seas from the shore one combed up too heavy for her to raise, and the hollow cap, coming down over the stern, raked her fore and aft. The next carried us high up the beach, all safe, the boat half full of water. We had landed on the island of Campobello, N. B. There was a fishing camp about two miles from where we landed, to which we went for shelter after pulling our boat up. It was a six miles walk to Lubec, which would have been far better to take, but the captain of the schooner wished to stay near his vessel, that he expected would strike the ledge at low water, and so we all went to the camp. Here we found a stove, but no pipe. I sent a man to Lubec for the stove pipe, while the rest got wood and things ready to stay all night. The man was gone four hours — six miles each way — and brought back with him the needed pipe, and some tea and coffee. We had put provisions in our boat in the morning before leaving the station, knowing that we could not get back till the gale let up. About 4 p. M. the wind changed to west and at dark it was blowing a north- west gale with thick snow squalls. AH hands were wet and cold. We got all the fire in the old stove that we could, and six at a time would hover over it to try and get warm and dry their clothes, while the other six walked the narrow floor. Myself and men gave the best chance to the wrecked crew, as they had lost, or expected to lose, all their personal effects, and felt badly. The night grew colder and colder. At midnight, at Lubec, we afterwards j86 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. learned, the mercury stood at 14° below, at sunrise 19°. I did not dare let the men go to|bleep, as I knew thej would freeze to death when uncon- scious. I therefore moved from one to the other and kept them awake. At 3 A. M. our supply of wood gave out, and then we tore down the berths in the camp and burnt them. We went out, and, cutting down a large tree, we dragged it to the camp, upon which we took turns chopping until daylight. We kept an iron pail, full of hot coffee, on the stove all night, and each drank what he wanted. The bread brought from th^ station, though wet with salt water, was quite palatable. We had a good supply of salt beef, also, from the station. At daylight everything was covered with frost ---all the trees and bushes white. Some of the men proposed to start for Lubec, against which I protested, until after the sun should rise and warm the air a little. At 8 A. M. we discovered the schooner lying in as good a condition as when we left her the day before. The wind from northwest had swung her clear of the ledges and she was riding at her anchors all right. At 9 A. m. we prepared to leave the camp. We had, for two miles, to face a cutting north- west wind to reach our boat, part way through woods, and, starting the party ahead, I remained to put out the fire, overtaking them in about ten minutes. I found the negro cook with his face frozen and one of my crew taking the frost out of it with snow. I had put on a long oil cloth coat, on leaving the camp, and it froze so that I could not walk. I tried to tear it off, but it was new and would not be torn, and so, after sending the negro ahead, I went back to the camp where I found heat enough to warm my coat, and then fol- lowed the men through the woods, calling upon them as I went along fearing lest they should get separated. On reaching the edge of the woods I could only see ten ahead of me. I asked the captain who was missing. He said, " No one." "Why," said I, "here are only eleven." "Jack has not come out of the wood vet," he replied. "Why did you leave that boy?" I asked, rather severely. "Ah," said he, laughing, "he's a cute scamp and will come out all right." I went back to find Jack, and, after going some distance into the woods, I called and the boy answered, coming along with the captain's grip- sack almost as large as himself. I asked him where he had been. He said he had to carry the sack and took his time. "Did he give you that to lug for him.^" I asked. "Yes," he replied. "Why did you not throw it awa}'.'" " Oh, the captain's papers and some good clothes are in this." " Well, Jack, I expected to find you frozen." "Oh, I am all right, but this got heavy, and I had to stop and beat my hands and rub my face." The captain might weigh two hundred pounds and Jack perhaps one hundred, still he had shirked the bag, containing his papers and good clothes, upon the boy, with the mercury 19 o below zero. I took the sack, and Jack and I soon reached the boat where the others had assembled. We launched and pulled out to the vessel, finding her iced up badlv. When alongside one man managed to climb on board and put over a ladder, and, as fast as possible, all hands got over the side. I stopped in the boat, passed out everything movable, and then went on deck. Had our boat dropped astern to stay till the weather modulated. After get- ting on deck I found that my right hand was frozen, the two middle fingers very badlv. Leavitt, of my crew, had his face frozen. Small the same. Fan- THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 387 ning, fingers, A. Guptil, ears and nose (bad), G. L.Guptil, both hands. Of the vessel's crew. Captain, ears, nose and two fingers, negro cook both hands, Dutcliman, face, mate, feet and hands, Jack, the boy, not a nip. Morong, of my crew, not frozen any. We stayed on board the vessel until 3 p. m. when the wind died away, when I thought we could get home and started, arriving at the station at 5 p. m., a sorry crew enough. The worst of it was that had we not gone near the vessel the crew would have fared better than they did in our hands, as the wind changed and she swung clear of the ledges, but had the wind kept south, and no one gone to them, no doubt all would have been lost. After arriving at the station I sent a dispatch for a towboat, and next day she came down and towed the vessel away. She was the Com/no- dore Carney of Calais, Me., Capt. John Mason, and four men." Capt. William Marshall, keeper of Crumple Island Sta- tion, thus writes: " One of our hardest jobs was on Feb. 7, 1883, when the schooner Eliza- beth., of Calais, Me., was wrecked on Steals Harbor Island. We boarded her at about 6 p. m., but found no one on board. She was full of water, loaded with a general cargo. We could not get her off. Stopped by her all night, to protect her cargo, and until 4 p. m., next day without food. The distance from the station was about four miles. The Captain and crew of the schooner stopped at the light house." Capt. L. E. Wright, keeper Cross Island Station, de- tails one severe experience: " I have rendered assistance to a large number of vessels, among them the schooner Billow., Dec. 13th, 1S83. The lookout sighted her with his glass about 8 A. M. eight miles off shore. The weather was very cold, the svind blow- ing very strong, and a heavy sea running at the time. We launched our boat and pulled off to her. She was lying on her beam ends and full of water, having been in collision and abandoned. After several hours of hard labor we succeeded in righting her and bringing her into Cross Island Harbor. 1 then telegraphed to her hailing port, (Canning, N. S.,) her crew having landed at Eastport, Me., in the vessel in collision with the Billov.\ and started for home, having given the vessel up as lost. Hearing that their vessel was saved they came back, arriving at the station, several days later, in a destitute condition ; we having, in the meantime, repaired the break in the vessel's side, freed her from water, and put everything about her in as good order as possi- ble. After keeping the crew several days at the station, and giving them provisions to last to Eastport, I secured the services of the Revenue Steamer Levi Woodbury to tow the disabled schooner to that port. The Captain left, feeling thankful to the Life-Saving Service." j88 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. Capt. G. T. Hadlock, keeper Cranberry Isles Station, Me., writes as follows: " I shall try to give jou a little account of the risks that are taken and the exposures endured by us in trying to save life and property. December 4, 1882, the East patrolman came to the station and informed the keeper that he thought he saw a light over by East Bunker's Ledge, but could not tell whether it was a vessel at anchor or not. The keeper went over to the north side of the island, taking the glasses with him, but though he could make out the light, he could not tell whether it was a vessel at anchor or not. He got back to the station as quick as he could, and, at 11 p. m., launched the surf-boat and started to find out what it was. Upon arriving at the ledge it was found to be the side light of schooner Wm. Lancaster^ of Weymouth, N. S., on the ledge. Boarded her and told the captain to remain by his vessel, and on the flood tide we would try and get her off, as she was not much damaged. He said that if I thought I could take them off, after the flood tide made, he would stick by the wreck. I told him that we would go ashore on the ledge, and would be sure to take them off if there was no chance of saving the vessel. It was so rough that we could not keep our surf-boat alongside without being stove, so we went ashore on the ledge, hauled our boat up out of the water and turned her up, to break the storm off from ourselves as much as we could, and then trav- elled back and forth under the lee of the boat to keep from freezing. As soon as the tide flowed enough to let us get alongside the wreck, we went to her. 1 put two of our boat's crew on board, and ordered them with the assistance of the vessel's crew to hoist a two-reefed four topsail and jib and guy them over on the windward side, to press her bow off as soon as it lifted off the rocks. The wind was at that time one point on the starboard bow, and on a heavy sea she lifted forward and the sails pressed the bows off. The keeper told them to lay aft to hoist the two-reefed mainsail, and on the next heavy sea the sails pressed her off. There was more sail than the vessel could bear, but our object was to keel her over on her side and slide her off the ledge if we could. By doing as was done, the vessel and crew were saved. We towed her into Cranberry Island with safety, and, but for the assistance of the Life-Saving crew, she would have gone to pieces and the crew have been lost, as the sea was so rough that their poor boat could not have been got from the davits without being swamped if not stove to atoms. We returned to the station at 7 A. m., after being exposed seven hours and a half, wet, tired, hungry and cold. Feb. 11, 1883, the schooner Madaivaska Maid, of Gloucester, Mass., ran on the East Bunker's Ledge, in a blinding southeast snow storm, about one and a half miles from the island. She was not discovered until sometime after, when the surf boat was launched, the wind then blowing a southeast gale. Upon arriving at the wreck we could not see any one on board and no boat was visible. We pulled around the ledge to see if the crew had got on shore in their boat. Seeing nothing of them, we pulled back to the wreck and dropped our anchor to windward. The sea was then breaking over the vessel half mast high. Watched our cliance and dropped under her stern ; then put one of THE LTFE-SAVING SERVICE. j8g our surfmen on board to see if there was any one in the cabin dead or alive. While our man was on board she broke in two, abaft the mainmast, and the stern was thrown farther over the ledge. We had to take our man off the jib-boom. He came very near being washed off, but saved himself by get- ting hold of a rope, under the waist of the vessel, and holding on with all his might. He came up out of the water, spouting like a whale, fully water- logged. There was no one on board, the crew having got off, as soon as the vessel struck, in their own boat, and landed at Southwest Harbor. The ves- sel went to pieces." Capt. James E. Goldthwaite, Biddeford Pool Station, writes very modestly of the business of his field during the past year; but, though spared the fierce trials of other stations, he has in former seasons done good work, and has been ready for emergencies that have providentially been spared. There is no better or more efficient crew in the service, as I can certify, and no better keeper than Capt. Goldthwaite. He says: "We are about making preparations (April 20, 1885) for getting the house in order before leaving, or, in other words, we have begun our 'spring cleaning.' We have been very fortunate, this winter, in being spared any serious disaster, but we feel that we have done our dut}', and done it well ; and although we have not been called upon to try our mettle, we hope the public is satisfied with our service, assured of our willingness and readiness to do when occasion offers." In addition to the above, I submit the following pleasant bit of rhyme, which shows the keeper in the light of a poet as well as sailor, and serves to brighten up the atmosphere of storm and peril that invests the rest: THESE BOYS AND ME. If you'll give me your attention, I '11 see what I can do. In relating circumstances About myself and crew. We watch the coast for vessels, • That may drive upon the lee. And that's what Uncle Sam expects Of these boys and me. 49 jgo GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. When night shuts in around us, The boys then have to go Along the beach and o'er the hills, Amid the driving snow. They take their lantern in their hand, And gaze out o'er the sea, For that 's what Uncle Sam expects Of these boys and me. If a wreck should be discovered, We must try what we can do ; We'll launch the boat and pull away. And try to save the crew, Or harness on the mortar car. If there 's a heavy sea; That's just what Uncle Sam expects Of these boys and me. If we should be successful In bringing them ashore, We '11 take them to the station. Dry clothing to procure; We'll give to them hot coffee, Or a cup of Oolong tea, And that's what Uncle Sam expects Of these boys and me. And when our winter's work is done, We'll close the station door; Then will return unto our homes And friends, we left, once more ; We will take our wives and sweethearts And trot them on our knee; That's what will be expected Of these boys and me. LATER EPISTLES. The unavoidable delay attending the publication of my book has enabled me to procure further and fresher details of the service, and they are hereto appended, presenting further testimony as to its efficiency. I feel, under obliga- tion to correspondents for their prompt answers to my re- quest for information: THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. 39' Capt. A. L. Remick, of Rye Beach L. S. Station, writes as follows: .. I don't know that I can interest you much, but I will give V- a sketch of the saving of schooner Farr Dealer, of Castine, Me., m April, 1879. At That time I was surf-man at this station and took part in the occurrence. On March 31st, the wind being strong from north northeast, accompamed by Teavy snow squalls, the man on the east patrol discovered a schooner stand ng in for the land under short sail, which was evidently trymg to make Ports- mouth Harbor, but during the thick snow had got to leeward, and, bemg hght Is unable to make it. Consequently she came to anchor about one mile Touth east of our station. We kept a close watch on her, and just before n:gh saw the crew lower their boat and leave their vessel. It was very evident that they would not reach the shore before dark, if at all, and, it bemg dan- gerous to land even in the day time, the chances would be smaller m the darkness We immediately launched the surf-boat, went to their assistance, and brought them off in safety, although there was a heavy sea on the "ore Three men constituted the crew, whom we fed and lodged for the r^I ■ During the night the wind veered to the northwest, and blowed heavy at six o'clock A. m., April xst. We discovered that the schooner had p'te"^ her chains and was drifting away to sea. We at once launched the surf-boat manned by five station men and the schooner's own crew, and Tent af e'r the truant vessel, which we overtook and boarded about four mile Trom land. We found her tight, but with one chain parted and the stock of the other anchor broken. We made sail and attempted to work into Portsmouth Harbor, but the wind increased to a heavy gale, and we bea about until nearly night, losing ground all the ti-, -d, as d-kne- wa coming on, we were obliged to run for the Isles of Shoals for shelter, or be driven to sea. The latter not being very pleasant, as there were scarcely anv provisions on board, the captain of the schooner gave up command to th; station men, to save his vessel if possible. About five o clock p. m. we kept off for the Isles of Shoals. It being low tide when we arrived, we were obliged to run the vessel aground until the tide made, and then hauled into the wharf without much damage to the schooner. The wind blowed heavy off the land and we were obliged to remain on board three days before we got back to the station. We were on very short allowance during our stay, Though the people on the Island shared their provisions with us; but they were nearly destitute themselves, owing to the long stress of bad weather. Our efforts" saved the vessel, and possibly the crew." Hunnewell's Beach Life Saving Station. One of the ugliest features of our rocky coast, is between Popham and Secruin, including the Kennebec region. Capt. Haley, of the" Life Saving Station here, has very little to say for j9^ GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. himself, letting his actions speak for him, but there is no more efficient keeper along the Maine shore. He says: "This station has been manned three vears the 14th day of January, 1887, and during that time we have rendered assistance to twenty-eight vessels, valued at $290,000, with cargoes vulued at $18,775, '^^d having on board 144 people, causing us to go off in our boat forty-five times, rescuing seventeen men and two lady passengers. Besides this we have made four trips to Seguin Island, the last the worst, which came near being our last anywliere. (Experience given in previous letter, on page 382.) I would further say that, during the four winters we have been here, the men have never missed walking twelve miles in four hours but three times, and then two men were out together, for company, in case of need." Capt. G. F. Hadlock, of Cranberry Isle Station, gives a very interesting letter, descriptive of life at the station, and shows activity of mind as well as body in discharge of duty. He says: "I write you at this time with a wish to give you an idea of our every-day life at this station, in fine weather. After the regular routine work is done, consisting of making beds, sweeping, trimming lamps, examining boats and gear to see that everything is in its proper place, then our exercises are taken, as follows: On Monday, Beach Apparatus Drill and examination of all the lines, together with exercise of surf-boats. Tviesday, exercises with surf-boats. Wednesday, exercise with Code signals. Thursday, Beach Apparatus drill. Friday, exercise at restoring the apparently drowned. Saturday, general house-cleaning. One surfman at a time is allowed to \'isit his home, and the men are allowed to gun or fish, bvit they must not go out of sight of the station, and must be within call if needed. We have good duck-shooting near the station in the fall and fipring, but mid-winter there are but few birds. We get some rare birds here : the Glancus gull, black- backed gull, burgomaster gull, white-winged gull, etc. When stormy weather comes, all hands must be at the station, unless on patrol or wreck duty. The patrol is kept up day and night if the weather is thick. If a wreck occurs, as soon as we get back to the station everything is put in order as quickly as possible and a patrolman sent out. If a boat is stove it must be mended at once, so that it can be used, if needed, before we rest or sleep. Sunday afternoon, when the weather is fine, our wives come to the station and take tea with us. Sometimes we have preaching at the station and peo- ple come from the other islands. We play dominoes, sometimes, for past- time. No cards are allowed at this station. We have a great many papers sent us by tourists who have visited this station, and we are very glad to get them." THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE: 393 One incident that occurred at this station, which re- ceived attention at the time, was the wreck of schooner Afton, from St. John for Portland, Me., which, ran upon Cranberry Island Bar, and was a complete wreck. From a printed account, we learn that the men were reduced to the utmost extremity, took to the rigging, where they were compelled to stay for many hours, until -relieved by the men from the station. Their rescue is thus described: c. When their hopes were well nigh gone, the men espied the Cranberry Island Life Saving Station men coming to their rescue. The high sea pre- .:: ed^ en. fronr boarding the vessel, but with promptness the hfe savmg nen -t about to effect their rescue. The rocket apparatus was quickly put n u^e and a line thrown towards the schooner. The men on board the chrner failed to catch the line. Again line after 1;- was thrown^and as the men failed to catch them, they became disheartened. The eighth line thrown however, was caught and secured, and the exhausted men effected a aTdii." o le by one. As quickly as possible they were taken to the hfe L!ing"t;tion and supplied with dry clothes, and everything possible was done for their comfort." A letter from Capt. Wm. Marshall, of Crumple Island Station, which has been the scene of very etHcient action in past years, is a pleasant addition to the matter which has already been gathered: April 230, 18S7. Mr. Joseph W. Smith, Andover, Mass. />.,„• 5.V.— Our station is about seven miles from town and three tronn the nearest inhabitant. I. is a small island of about ^ight acres up™ »h,ch there is no. a living tree, and consists most^.v o -=";->-- ^' " J^ being some hundred feet above the level of the sea. ilie greai Ue a mile to the eastward, and a small island, called ' Irishman s Island o he northwest, one fourth of a mile. There is a large ledge lying to t^^e westwa d, and sunken rocks, between that and the island, presen very prett, Tenerv for anv one not accustomed to the seashore. There is also a reef of rocks running'in a westerly direction about a mile and a half, which affo.ds a cata esort for gunners, who go there to shoot sea birds flying eastward in the spring, and wfstward in the fall. Our crew consists of eigh men includ- ns myseH and we keep ourselves busy by performing the duties of the ta- 2^12 dav and night. We have had few wrecks this season, the worst of Sg^ GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. which was the British brig Dart, which occurred on the 6th of Sept., 1886. The crew consisted of eight, witli four passengers: two ladies and a child, and one gentleman. She struck about ten a. m., and I boarded her in the surf-boat in about fifteen minutes, taking the passengers ashore. I tried to get the vessel off, but she bilged on the rock as the tide flowed. I com- iTienced to strip her, and, with the help of five fishermen, had her all stripped and her gearing ashore, except spars and standing rigging. About six o'clock p. M. she began to break to pieces, and was a total wreck. Our time is about up, and my crew leave me about the first of May, when I have to stop here alone for about four months to look after the property, the wrecks if there are any, and take my share of gunning during the gunning season. Yours truly, (Signed) Wm. Marshall. Cross Island, near Cutler, Me., is a very important sta- tion, and some good work has been done there. Its keeper, Capt. L. E. Wright, writes me as follows: " We do not have many wrecks, but have assisted nine in about three vears. In everj^ case we have done all in our power to render them service. We have not lost a life in this immediate vicinity since I took charge in 1879. We are situated on an island about six miles from a post ofiice. The only dwelling house on the island is occupied by one of the surf-men be- longing to this station. Our island is quite large— about 2,000 acres — mostly covered with a thick growth of birch and spruce. It is quite a place for game. All kinds of sea-fowl that frequent these waters make us a visit, either on their spring or fall migration. There are quite a number of wild deer on the island — seventy-five or a hundred of them I should judge. The owners of the island have had a special law passed for their protection. Thev are increasing very fast. I have one tamed that follows my cows round every day and comes home with them at night. The sum- mers are quite pleasant here, but the winters are very monotonous. You can rest assured that the books you presented to this station have been well read. My boat's crew are all local fishermen, and have spent a good part of their davs in a boat. They all attend to their duty in good shape. They are all steady, sober men and have been here, with one or two exceptions, about seven winters, during which time I have not known of a quarrel among them. All of the officers of the Life Saving Service who have vis- ited us seem to be perfect gentlemen. We go through our drills every day, Sundavs excepted, and think we are quite proficient in them. The shortest time we have made with the beach apparatus gear was before Capt. Lay, of U. S. schooner Dallas. We fired the shot seventy-five yards, with line, and set up the gear exactly as if working at a wreck at that distance, and landed one man in three and a half minutes, as recorded by Capt. Lay. He said that it was the quickest that it had ever been done by any crew within his THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. jgj knowledge. The men get leave of absence about once In three weeks, as only one can go at a time, and then only in pleasant weather. There is a good harbor on the north side of the island." The books alluded to by Capt. Wright were supplied by myself, to this and the like to other stations, a gift that gave me the greatest delight to bestow, and has been met by a return of thankfulnesss, from all the stations, that has proved it an unrivalled investment. These form but a nucleus of what I hope may be added to, and become respectable libraries. Life-Saving Station, Quoddy Head. The coast along the Lubec shore is exceedingly dangerous, and the station men there have to be constantly on the alert. Capt. A. H. Myers, the keeper, has a very graphic way of narrat- ing incidents, and, in response to my request for facts, he writes me the following: "Jan. 9, 1886, at 4:30 A. m., the man on the west patrol saw the lights of a vessel through the mist, and burnt a Coston light to warn them to haul off shore. He watched for some answering signal, and found the vessel was at anchor, with her side lights burning. He returned to the station and re- ported. The wind was light, with snow. I sent him back, as it was not uncommon for a vessel to anchor where she was, to wait for the tide. He passed close by where she lay, burned another light and passed on, o-etting no answer. He reached the end of his beat, struck his watch, and started to return, when the gale set in with a blinding snow storm. He hurried alono- and heard some one call for help, and a crew of half frozen men appeared to him on the beach. They had left the vessel when the tempest struck them in their own boat, and steered for where they had seen his light, doubtless saving their lives by so doing. He conducted them to the station, where they were cared for. The vessel dragged in and sank at her anchor, after- wards beating up the beach. No boat could have reached her half an hour after the gale struck her. The vessel proved to be the schooner Frederic D., of St. John, N. B, The crew were badly frozen. While caring for this crew, the eastern patrol reported a vessel driving ashore near the Relief House in Quoddy Bay. We all started for that point, carrying our gear for working the beach apparatus. On reaching the beach, I saw that the vessel would not strike there, and that no boat could live in such a sea. I ordered all hands back to the station for the new surf-boat and apparatus cart. We dragged the boat across the neck of land and then the jgd GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. • apparatus. The whole beach was covered with ice. But I knew that, as the tide rose, the ice would pile up in such a sea, when I would place the apparatus in the boat and risk the chance of reaching a sand bar about half a mile distant, where the vessel would probably strike. If I could get to leeward of that bar with the boat, we would be comparatively safe and have boat or apparatus to work with. As the ice cleared off with the rising tide, wa launched our boat, and I am sure no one thought she would live, but all took their chance. Hardly a word was spoken. She floated like a duck and reached the bar, but I then found it impossible to row against the wind and drift ice. I sent the men ashore with a line, and went myself, leaving one man to steer. We started, dragging her up the beach by the line. I had just reached the shore, when one of the men saw the vessel coming in on the rollers. I told my men to drag the boat along abreast of her, and I would run ahead and show myself, to let them know that help was coming. I had got to within about fifty yards of the vessel when they saw me and com- menced to call for help. I then saw the yawl boat trailing astern, full of water, as she rose on a sea, and three men, standing, pulling on a line from the boat. I followed the range of the line, and saw a man's head come out of the water at the bow of the boat. I saw that he was about gone, and resolved to save him, if possible. The vessel was coming in all the time and I made a rush for her. Just as I reached the stern, with my hands fast to it, the sea piled over me. I hauled myself into the boat and worked my way to the bow. The man had lost consciousness and his head had svmk. I found his arm caught in the painter. I pulled his head out of the water but could not get him into the boat. He was fouled by lines under the boat, and every sea was covering me all up. The vessel's stern struck the shore, and as she lav at an angle, the sea came around the bow and carried me, boat and all, fifteen fathoms out to windward of the vessel. As I went out, I heard the men on the vessel say, " For God's sake save yourself ! He is dead," meaning the man whom I was trying to rescue. I still held the man out of water as the vessel went side on, and the boat passed in again by the stern. I heard the men call to me to save myself, and I thought it time, as I began to chill in the icy cold water. As the boat went in on a roller I let go the man and put for the shore. I had just strength enough to reach it. I got my breath, and, seeing two men, not belonging to my crew, coming over the beach, I called to them for help, but they kept clear of the sea. I rushed for the boat again, and this time caught the stern, and held on until the next sea, when I ran the boat up on the beach. The waves left her free. I cleared the man froin his entanglement among the ropes, and, four of my men arriving, we carried him over the ice wall to the dry beach, where we tried to resuscitate him. He breathed after a few moments, and our hopes were strong that he would recover, but his head and face were fearfully bruised between the ves- sel and boat, when he fell overboard. I sent for a team while we were work- ing upon him to get up circulation, upon which he was placed and taken to the nearest house, where he died in about eight minutes. We threw the line to the rest of the crew, which they took up the rigging, and swung ashore dry. If the captain had been seaman enough to have stayed by the vessel he THE LI FES A VING SER VICE. 397 could have saved all in ten minutes after she struck the beach, but he was not a practical sailor, and was running his vessel under a sailing master, who told him not to try to get in the boat, and endeavored to stop him, but while his attention was called to something else, the captain attempted to haul the boat alongside. The bight of a line caught him on the back, the line being fast to the boat which was full of water, and pulled him over, the men being too frightened to save him. After they were safe they told conflicting stories about it, and I concluded that they were so frightened on finding the vessel going ashore that they were not accountable for anything they did or allowed their captain to do. The vessel was the Myrtel Purdy, of St. John, N. B., captain W. E. Elsworth, whose remains were properly cared for and sent to his friends. Half an hour after the Purdy struck, the schooner Billow, of St. Andrews, N. B., came on about one hundred yards further north. I shot a line to her, and had the crew ashore in ten minutes. At the same time the schooner Alabama, of Calais, Me., was riding at anchor with flag of distress flying. Too far for a shot-line, we launched the boat and pulled out to her, offering to take the crew off, but, after the captain had asked for advice, they con- cluded not to leave, and they rode out the gale. We had a fearful race back to the shore. We were obliged to reach a cer- tain point before the tide had got too low, and I kept her before the wind and sea, letting her go without drag or anything to hinder her. She did go, and we reached the shore safely and on time, glad to get off so well. We found hundreds of waiting hands to help us with our boat. At eight p. m. we reached the station, as tired as we could be, with the first loss to record out of seventy-three disasters to vessels. I must also mention our volunteers for the day. Captain James, of the schooner Frederic D., and his crew, though frostbitten more or less, willingly came out and helped us get our apparatus and boat to the beach through the deep snow. Captain George Bently, likewise, whose vessel, the Sea Flozvcr, wrecked December 26, he was trying to save, left her to go where she might, was a volunteer in the surf-boat, and worked valiently all day. I afterwards got a letter of thanks for him from the department." Captain Myers likewise gives a description of the rou- tine life of the crew, their characters and customs, their privileges, about the same as at the other stations. " My crew," he says, "are all middle aged men, used to rough- ing it. Two belong to the church; the rest of us are outside the fold, but rather pride ourselves on our morality. For eight months in the year we have no entertainments. Our time is employed in the discharge of our daily routine business, a few games, and plenty of reading, thanks to yourself and others." ^8 GLEANINGS FROM THE SEA. A GENEROUS TESTIMONIAL. Just as we close this volume we learn of a most gener- ous remembrance of the services of a Hfe-saving crew of a Virginia station, all of whom perished, save two, in an heroic attempt to rescue a German ship, on the 8th of January, 1887. Such recognition is not only richly merited, but must serve to encourage the brave fellows who risk their lives in the cause of humanity. The following dis- patch from Washington, D. C, was published in the daily press of July 19, 1887: The secretary of state has received through the German minister at Washington, from the emperor of Germany, a check for $10,000 and two handsome gold watches embellished with the likeness and monogram of the emperor, with the request that the money be divided equally among the families of the five members of the life-saving crew at Damneck Mill Sta- tion, Va., who lost their lives in attempting to rescue the German ship Eliza- beth., on Jan. 8th, and that the watches be presented to Frank Tedford and Joseph F. Fetheridge, the only survivors of the life-saving crew. CONCLUSION. The Life-Saving Service having proved its effectiveness, and those engaged in it their worthiness of pubHc regard, an appeal in their behalf may not be amiss in this connec- tion. From their isolated position, shut off from association with the world during the six inclement months of the year, their lot is a very dreary one, with few resources of rehef. Even the perils they are at times called to en- counter would tend to diversify the dreary hours of wait- ing and watching amid the cold and tempest. These may seldom occur, but the duty of readiness is imperative, and they must remain at their post amid solitude and gloom, exposed as much to the danger of mental derangement in their quiet, as to physical peril when the time of trial comes. True they are companioned and not left, Crusoe- like, to complete loneliness, yet it is little better; confined to THE LIFE-SAVING SERVICE. jgg solitary isles, on the worst part of the coast, with the stormy sea their exclusive field of observation, their thought and conversation constantly turning to the nature of their em- ployment and the contingencies involved, the mind must necessarily be depressed. In some lighthouses that are upon remote rocks in the sea, in order to prevent the evil likely to result from the monotony of such position, the keepers are required to engage in fishing, or, where prac- ticable, in some little agricultural employment whereby to preserve their mental balance. There was a story told of one in former time who, appointed to the Whale's Back Light, off Portsmouth Harbor, took his plow with him to meet the emergency, but, as the rock on which the Ught- house was placed was under water nearly all the time, without a grain of soil, the plow was unused. Our Life- Saving crews are composed of intelligent, sober men, the graduates of our New England schools, and therefore a supply of intellectual food is necessary, to keep their minds in healthy vigor during the time of their incarcera- tion between September and May. Struck with this neces- sity I have, in a small way, endeavored to supply the want in the several eastern stations. This needs the co-operation of those who cannot help seeing the benefit to result from such a course, and who, I am assured, will respond to the appeal made to them. No more worthy object than this could commend itself to the consideration of the generous, and the assurance is felt that it will be successful. I am induced thus further to introduce my personality in this matter from a sincere conviction of the great merit of the object, having become thoroughly acquainted by direct observation, with the necessity of the case, and of the worthiness of those to be benefited. Actuated by no wish for fame in the premises, my aim simply being to further a great good, I trust that my personal appeal may induce the friendly readers of my book to take an interest in the work thus commenced. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 042 606 4 WA-^ -^