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Across the Isthmus 
 
 to California 
 
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 in '52 
 
 SARAH MERRIAM BROOKS 
 

8 
 
 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 TO 
 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 IN 52 
 
 BY 
 
 SARAH MERRIAM BROOKS 
 
 ^ 
 
 San Franxisco 
 
 '. A. MuRDOCK & Co., Printers 
 
 1894 
 

 Copyright, 1894, 
 
 BY 
 
 Sarah Merriam Brooks. 
 
ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 I HAD been living in Boston three years — 
 three years of the most exciting times, I 
 think, which that city has ever experienced. 
 I went in '49, and left in '52. 
 
 Theodore Parker, William Lloyd Garri- 
 son, Wendell Phillips, Emerson, and Lowell 
 were all in the lecture field. Kossuth went 
 there, and the question of intervention or 
 non-intervention was brought up in the Sen- 
 ate and House, and speeches from the bright- 
 est minds were called out. Then came Jenny 
 Lind to the music-lovers, and Anna Cora 
 Mowatt to the theatre-goers. To the lovers 
 of the exciting and horrible the Parkman 
 murder gave plenty of material, not only 
 there, but to the English-speaking world at 
 large. Swedenborg's doctrines had taken 
 root, and homoeopathy was coming to the 
 front, while w^omen physicians, with Harriet 
 K. Hunt at their head, were securing social 
 
4 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 recognition. Advance sheets of Dickens came 
 over fortnightly, and little coteries of ladies 
 were formed here and there to read them 
 aloud. Afterwards came a most distracting 
 discussion of the probable outcome of the 
 story. The first School of Design was started 
 in a small room over a store; and the first 
 woman's rights convention — of Boston wom- 
 en mostly — was held in Worcester. Mesmer- 
 ism and table-tippings were looking up, and 
 clairvoyants were doing a thriving business, 
 not only in diagnosing diseases, but in pre- 
 scribing for them. 
 
 In those years the Republican party got its 
 first recognition — not as a whole, but by get- 
 ting a Locofoco plank inserted in a party plat- 
 form. Webster was no longer the idol of the 
 Whigs. His advocacy of the Fugitive Slave 
 Law had deposed him, and the city went wild 
 over the attempts to enforce that law. 
 
 A friend of mine was sitting quietly at her 
 window opening on Bowdoin Square one day, 
 when she saw a carriage driven in from Court 
 Square, a block away. She had only time to 
 notice this, when a black man, hatless and 
 shoeless, assisted by two other black men, 
 came running in from Court Square, and 
 jumping into the carriage, were driven quick- 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 5 
 
 ly away. They were barely out of sight when 
 a crowd of people of all classes — police, civil- 
 ians, and many women — came whooping and 
 howling in from Court Square, in hot chase 
 after the black men. But they did not get 
 them! The man helped away was Shadrack, 
 the only fugitive slave who was publicly res- 
 cued from the workings of this law. 
 
 The next day being Sunday, Mr. Parker's 
 meeting-place (then the old Melodeon Music 
 Hall) was crowded to its utmost capacity with 
 people who were either sympathizers with him 
 in his opposition to the obnoxious law or were 
 curious to hear what he had to say of an act 
 which had set the city in a turmoil. He 
 opened the service by reading from a little 
 paper he held in his hand, that " Shadrack, a 
 fugitive slave, asked the prayers of this church 
 and all Christian people for aid in seeking his 
 liberty." After reading the note, amid the 
 most profound silence, Mr. Parker added: 
 ''But this Shadrack is delivered from the 
 hands of his enemies!" Then such applause 
 went up from the people as it is impossible to 
 describe. It was quite against Mr. Parker's 
 desire that any applause should be allowed at 
 his services ; but at this time full liberty was 
 given to the pent-up feelings of his hearers. 
 
b ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 Indeed, I doubt if he tliought he could help 
 it. After a while he gently raised his hands — 
 his way of enforcing silence — and went on 
 with his services as though nothing unusual 
 had happened. His friends felt that this was 
 his proper course. Others, who were in sym- 
 pathy with the slave-holders, went away much 
 disappointed, because they expected a fiery 
 and denunciator}^ sermon, and only heard one 
 of love and charity to all mankind. To me 
 the whole scene was the most impressive I 
 had ever witnessed. 
 
 I had friends or acquaintances in every 
 movement going on, and no one could help 
 feeling an interest when every topic of con- 
 versation seemed to have an element of ex- 
 citement. 
 
 From such associations and surroundings I 
 was suddenly summoned to California. My 
 first thought was, ''Impossible!" My next, 
 "Can I do it?" and the next, "Yes, this is 
 just w^hat I want — a new land, a chance to 
 live what I have learned, to be an actor in the 
 world, and not a waiting soul." I had the 
 usual experience of persons about to under- 
 take what was then considered a difficult and 
 hazardous journey for a man, — how much 
 more for a woman with a little child only 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 7 
 
 three and a half years old ! One said I ought 
 not to attempt such a thing; others wished 
 they had the chance, and still others saw all 
 sorts of dangers and disasters in my way. A 
 dear sister clung beseechingly to me, and only 
 gave way when she had exacted a promise 
 from me that in case I did not like the coun- 
 tr}^ or there were hardships to endure, I would 
 come back in a year. I said "Yes," but I 
 thought " No — most decidedly no ! " I resolved 
 to go forward, but never backward. 
 
 It took a long time then to arrange prelim- 
 inaries. It was midwinter when I decided to 
 go, and the 26th of April was the first date 
 on which I could secure tickets. Alvin Adams, 
 the king of expressmen, was a personal friend, 
 and he undertook the selection and purchas- 
 ing of tickets, and doing all else that was 
 possible in advance for my comfort. He was 
 anxious I should go at that time, as the 
 steamers "Illinois" and "Golden Gate" were 
 advertised to make a trial trip then, and any- 
 thing which promised a lessening in time of 
 the tedious journey was much to be desired. 
 
 For the first time he was sending a messen- 
 ger through with his express matter, and that 
 gentleman was to look after me on both sides 
 of the Isthmus. But in crossing the Isthmus 
 
8 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 I was to rely upon some one else, as he would 
 have all he could possibly do in looking after 
 his large business. Mr. Adams gave me an 
 order on Covy & Co., at Aspinwall, for especial 
 transportation for myself and escort, which 
 meant riding and baggage animals, and a 
 muleteer for our own use. How very valuable 
 it was to me will be seen later on. 
 
 After the matter of tickets was settled came 
 the next important one of trunks and ward- 
 robe. A friend of mine had spent nine months 
 in California, and returned the previous fall. 
 He gave me full instructions about my bag- 
 gage, w^hich was all right; but when it came 
 to wardrobe, his ideas were somewhat confused. 
 He had spent most of his time in the moun- 
 tains, where it was exceedingly warm, but start- 
 ing home, had come through San Francisco, 
 and found it quite cool. People had told him 
 it was never warm there, and if he knew any 
 one going there to advise them to take only 
 thick clothing. So between his experience of 
 extreme heat and others of none at all, there 
 was room for doubt as to a proper selection. 
 Only one thing was very sure. That was, I 
 was to take only new clothes. Transportation 
 was so expensive it was useless to take any 
 which w^ould not last until goods could be 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 9 
 
 sent there. I did the best I could with these 
 rather conflicting ideas, and took all the good 
 clothes for either hot or cold weather which I 
 was possessed of, and bought more, which I 
 thought might be needed. But oh, how I 
 longed for some old, or half- worn, or cheap 
 things on that long journey! Only in one 
 particular did I not follow any advice, — and 
 that was in my little daughter's wardrobe. I 
 had read how dirty a ship at sea could be; 
 and for her I took everything she had, how- 
 ever old it might be, and everything new that 
 I had room for. 
 
 My trunks were made expressly for the 
 trip (I have them now), and to be just a load 
 for a mule, — two trunks, and a bonnet-box 
 half their length, but otherwise the same. 
 They were made of light but strong Avood, 
 covered wdth sheepskin, and bound with many 
 bands of steel. The trunks were to go on 
 each side of the pack-saddle, and the box on 
 top and between them ; and the space left by 
 lack of length w^as to.be utilized for anything 
 I might wish afterwards. Of the trunks, one 
 w^as for packing, wdth no compartments; the 
 other had a space divided off in the top and 
 one tra^^ The bonnet-box had only one tray. , 
 
 It seems incredible to me now the amount 
 
10 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 of clothing I put in those trunks. I began 
 packing a month before I started, and as the 
 contents settled, I filled in more. The night 
 before I left, my trunks were locked; but the 
 box was left open for those things which are 
 sure to turn up at the last moment. Several 
 friends came in during the evening bringing 
 little gifts, and these were put in the tray with 
 other light articles. In the lower part were 
 oight bonnets, twenty-three pairs of under- 
 sleeves — everybody wore undersleeves with 
 -every dress then, — besides collars, pocket- 
 handkerchiefs, veils, and many other thhigs 
 which would not bear packing with heavy 
 clothes. I mention these things now, as that 
 box played quite an important part in my 
 Isthmus experience. 
 
 The parting with my friends came at last, 
 and while it seemed hard to them, there was 
 no sadness in it for me. I felt brave, hopeful, 
 and happy. My friend of California experi- 
 ence was to go with me to New York and see 
 me safely on board ship. We arrived late 
 Saturday night, and went to the Irving House. 
 A drizzling rain had accompanied us during 
 the afternoon, and had shut out all objects of 
 interest which might have helped to pass the 
 time during that tedious car ride. But a 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 11 
 
 cheerful fire and a good supper made amends, 
 and a sound sleep put us in spirits again. 
 
 Sunday my friend left me to visit a brother 
 in Brooklyn. Lena being busy with her doll 
 and picture-books, I felt rather at a loss for 
 something to interest me, when I noticed a 
 book which had been handed me by a friend 
 who bade me good-bye at the depot in Boston. 
 He gave it to me with the remark that it was 
 a new book — just out, in fact, — dealing largely 
 with a subject in which we were both much 
 interested, and he thought I might like to 
 read it on the steamer. 
 
 I meant to keep it for that purpose, but 
 had read only a few lines when I became 
 entirely absorbed in its pages. The book 
 was a paper-covered edition of "Uncle Tom's 
 Cabin." I read on until tears blinded my 
 eyes. Then I realized this was no reading 
 for one who had begun to experience the feel- 
 ing of being a stranger in a strange land, and 
 I resolutely shut the book and put it out of 
 sight, so that I should not be tempted to take 
 it up again — at least not while I was alone. 
 I little thought then how much in touch my 
 feelings were with a waking world — awaking 
 to the awful importance of the Slavery ques- 
 tion, which came so near wrecking our Union. 
 
12 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 While at breakfast that morning I thought 
 I had noticed some peculiar movements about 
 the waiters in the dining-hall. I fancied there 
 was whispering among them, and rather 
 pointed observation of me. I asked my friend 
 if it was so, and if so, why? He said the 
 direction on my baggage had been noticed, 
 and he had been asked if I did not want an 
 attendant; that I could have one on my own 
 terms, if I could secure a passage for one. 
 Now, going down to lunch alone, I was ap- 
 proached by one of the waiters, a fine-looking 
 mulatto, who made a similar offer. He would 
 serve me on the journey, and work for me after 
 getting to California for any time I might 
 name, if I would just take him there. As 
 servants could go for half fare, the offer seemed 
 tempting, but one which I had to decline, as 
 also that made by one of the girls, in almost 
 the same words. The desire of this class to 
 get to California was so great they would prom- 
 ise almost any terms to accomplish that end. 
 
 My experience afterwards proved that very 
 few who took them at their word got any 
 benefit from them. They would promise to 
 work for a certain length of time in payment 
 for their passage-money, and when they got 
 through would desert at the first offer of in- 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 13 
 
 creased wages. There was no way to keep 
 them to their word, and servants were so 
 scarce that few people were above getting 
 them away, even from a friend, if doubling 
 or trebling their wages would do it. 
 
 The "Illinois" was to sail Monday after- 
 noon, April 26th. We went down early to 
 avoid the rush, if possible; but there was no 
 avoiding that with all the people who were to 
 go. The crowd pushed and pulled, shouted 
 and swore, and somehow we got on board, and 
 halted in a sort of ante-saloon. With my 
 wraps and satchels disposed around me, I 
 waited for my friend to find my berth. He 
 w^as gone so long that I began to feel some- 
 what anxious, when he returned witli the 
 information that the stateroom as a whole 
 was taken and occupied by a party from New 
 York. How could this be possible, I said, 
 when there was my ticket, calling for the 
 lower berth in stateroom K, first cabin, one 
 of the very best on the steamer? Mr. Adams 
 had taken great pains to get this particular 
 berth, for which I had paid three hundred 
 and fifteen dollars, and here I was with ap- 
 parently no berth at all. 
 
 The noise and confusion, the ringing of 
 bells, the sbouting of all to come aboard, and 
 
14 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 finally the orders for all visitors to go on shore, 
 so upset me that I made no remonstrance when 
 my friend told he me had given my ticket 
 to the purser, who had assured him I should 
 be comfortably provided for as soon as the 
 bustle had a little subsided. He bade me 
 good-bye, and was gone before I fully realized 
 that 1 had nothing to show that I had paid my 
 fare and was entitled to my berth. At first I 
 felt dismayed, and then a little angry, at my 
 situation. I had travelled thousands of miles 
 alone without a mishap; and here I was sup- 
 posed to be under the care of a competent es- 
 cort, and yet left in a most awkward position. 
 
 I do not know how long I sat where my 
 friend left me; but matters had quieted down, 
 everybody seemed to have got their berths, 
 and still I was there. At last the stewardess 
 came along and asked me why I was there. I 
 said I was waiting to find out, and if she 
 w^ould ask the purser, perhaps 8lie would find 
 out. After a while she came back with word 
 that I could have a berth in stateroom K, 
 second cabin, for the present, and afterwards 
 some other arrangement might be made. But 
 no other arrangement ever was made, and all 
 my efforts to that end were fruitless. I could 
 not get the purser to see me, and any appeal 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 15- 
 
 to the captain was answered by referring me 
 to the purser. 
 
 I found out later on that this was not an 
 uncommon occurrence. Some one in New 
 York resold staterooms, and trusted to getting 
 their people on board before the fraud wa& 
 discovered and too late to make any trou- 
 ble about it. Generally, it was perfectly safe 
 to do this, — for in the scramble and anxiety 
 of people to get to California, a little thing 
 like being cheated out of a berth, and having 
 to sleep on a table or the floor, didn't count 
 for much with single men, and usually they 
 were the sufferers. When I wrote back to 
 Mr. Adams of my experience, he went on to 
 New York and had an overhauling of the 
 business. Many wrongs of this kind came to 
 light, and after this some safeguard was placed 
 around ticket-holders so they were sure of 
 getting what they had paid for. Who pock- 
 eted the money obtained by double and triple 
 selling of tickets was never found out, as far 
 as I know. 
 
 After being fully convinced that nothing 
 could be gained by holding out for my rights 
 any longer, I followed the stewardess to the 
 berth allotted me in the second cabin. This 
 second cabin had a row of staterooms around 
 
16 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 the side, the centre being entirel}^ taken up by 
 standees, each having two cots, entirely with- 
 out pillows or bedding. The occupants were 
 supposed to provide for themselves in that 
 respect. I was shown to stateroom K, and 
 found it so fully occupied there seemed no 
 room for me. Upon interviewing the per- 
 sons there, I found we had all been treated 
 alike. We were entitled to stateroom K, first 
 cabin, but had been ousted by the "party 
 from New York." There were two berths and 
 a sofa in our stateroom, and we soon came to 
 an amicable arrangement about places. ,The 
 woman with two children took the lower berth, 
 the other woman with one child took the sofa, 
 and I took the upper berth with my little girl. 
 As soon as we had arranged our belongings 
 to the best advantage, we went to the saloon 
 for our supper, the bell having rung while we 
 were getting settled. We had taken only a few 
 mouthfuls when a sea struck us, and some of 
 those who had outside seats were landed on 
 the floor. Those who had divan seats fared 
 better, but with stomachs too unsteady to stay 
 longer at the table. We were told we were off 
 •Sand}^ Hook, and might expect rough sailing 
 for some time. I took Lena and found my 
 way to my room, too sick to do anything but 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 17 
 
 creep into our berth, as we thought for a little 
 while, but which neither of us left for two 
 days and nights. Occasionally I would rouse 
 a little and look around, only to see every 
 available spot in the room occupied with all 
 kinds of food and liquids, w4iich had been 
 ordered by ray roommates, hoping thereby to 
 tempt a seasick appetite. Every opening 
 which could let in a breath of fresh air was 
 hermetically sealed. Let those who have suf- 
 fered at sea imagine the result! During this 
 time we had only once some gruel brought us, 
 of which we ate very little, and now, the third 
 morning out, w^ere completely exhausted and 
 consumed wdth thirst. 
 
 We had come into the Gulf Stream, and, of 
 course, a much warmer climate, and found 
 the garments we left New York in anything 
 but comfortable. I was w^ondering whether 
 I should make an effort to get up and dress, 
 or lie quiet and just die easy — an event which 
 seemed very likely to happen, — when I w^as 
 conscious of an unusual noise and loud talk- 
 ing about our door, and then a demand for 
 admission. One of the women answered, and 
 then brought me a card, which proved to be 
 that of my escort on the steamer, Mr. Adams' 
 express messenger. 
 
18 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 It seemed that as soon as he had taken care 
 of his business that first night out, he began 
 to look for us. Some one told him persons 
 answering our description had been taken sick 
 at the supper-table and had gone to their berth. 
 As this was to be expected, he thought no 
 more of it that night. The next day the same 
 answer was given; but when the second day 
 passed and we did not appear, he became anx- 
 ious, and now, the third morning out, began a 
 personal search, which resulted in his appear- 
 ance at our stateroom. He urged me to get 
 on deck, if possible, fearing if I stayed longer 
 in that close atmosphere I would bring on a 
 fever. 
 
 I told him if I could have the room to 
 myself for half an hour, the unpleasant ac- 
 cumulation removed, and the port opened, I 
 might possibly manage it. As my roommates 
 had been in possession of all the available 
 space except my berth during the two days 
 and three nights, I did not consider my re- 
 quest unreasonable. But although it was 
 granted, I realized I had given offence. My 
 first move was to open the port and transom 
 and let in the blessed pure air, which of itself 
 was enough to revive one. Lena was delighted 
 at the prospect of getting out of that dreary 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 19 
 
 room, and as soon as I had made her present- 
 able Mr. E took her on deck. By going 
 
 slowly and taking an occasional rest, I accom- 
 plished a sponge-bath — mostly cologne — and 
 got into more comfortable clothes. When thus 
 far along, I was in doubt of being able to as- 
 cend the stairs; but upon opening the door 
 found my escort and a friend waiting to help 
 me on deck. There I found a standee, with 
 pillow and blanket, and the stewardess wait- 
 ing with a dish of rice and an ice-cold drink. 
 
 When Lena and I had eaten and drunk, 
 I quite gave up the idea of dying just then. 
 There w^as an awning over that part of the 
 deck, but lying there on the cot, my eyes 
 seemed on a level with the ocean, which 
 looked bright and glorious in the morning 
 sun. Every breath I drew gave me life and 
 strength, and I began to feel an interest in 
 my surroundings. There were several stan- 
 dees around, occupied by those who had been 
 seriously ill, and could gain no strength while 
 confined to their berths. 
 
 I had only been on deck a short time when 
 a gentleman came to the standee next mine 
 and said something to the lady lying there. 
 I recognized him at once as having been head 
 salesman in a large dry-goods establishment 
 
20 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 in Boston, where I had done much of my pur- 
 chasing. As soon as he saw me, he gave me a 
 cordial greeting and then introduced me to 
 his wife, a lovely woman, who had been cru- 
 elly seasick, and was still unable to leave her 
 cot. From that time on, no brother and sister 
 could have been kinder. They were going 
 to Stockton, he having bought a partnership 
 in a wholesale grocery business, intending to 
 stay there two years, and then return to a 
 home in New England, which he had lately 
 purchased. 
 
 I wish to say here that of all the people 
 whom I met who were going to California for 
 " two years and for a certain sum of money," 
 — and their name was legion — he and one 
 other were the only persons who, to my knowl- 
 edge, lived up to their intention. Two years 
 after our journey he and his wife called on me 
 in San Francisco, while on their way home. 
 He had made ten thousand dollars, the sum 
 he went for, had no love for the country, and 
 was going back perfectly satisfied with his 
 venture. The other man was from Ohio, and 
 one of a family of very pious people. He 
 went into the mines, and, being handy with 
 tools, made " cradles" for washing gold. He 
 could make one in a day, for which he re- 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 21 
 
 ceived an ounce in gold-dust. He stayed 
 until he made much more than the sum he 
 went for, and, I believe, got frightened, fearing 
 if he did not keep faith with himself some- 
 thing might happen to him. He also went 
 home perfectly satisfied to have escaped with 
 his money and his life from a civilization so 
 wild and rough as was found in a mining- 
 camp. A few days ago this gentleman called 
 on me. He was making a visit to California 
 for his health. I reminded him of what he 
 had told me of his object in coming here. 
 "Yes," he said, " I came for a purpose, — and 
 there she sits over in that chair," pointing to 
 a sweet-faced, gray-haired lady opposite me, 
 his good wife, and the mother of several chil- 
 dren. How strange it all seemed! 
 
 My first day on the steamer deck was full of 
 wonder to me. I had heard of the crowded 
 steamers, but had no conception of what it 
 meant until that day. In the second cabin, 
 coming up, in the first cabin, looking through 
 as I came up the stairs, on deck, everywhere, a 
 crowd! Men, women, and children of all na- 
 tions seemed to have a representation more or 
 less numerous. At first all were mixed in 
 one confused mass; but after a while I be- 
 came accustomed to the moving throng, and 
 
22 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 thought I could single out some of my own 
 country people. The impression of a crowd 
 was not to be wondered at, — for, although the 
 steamer was allowed only twelve hundred pas- 
 sengers, we were told, and every one believed 
 it, there were fully sixteen hundred, counting 
 stowaw^ays, extra deck-hands, and smuggled-in 
 steerage passengers. Those who occupied first 
 or second cabins were allowed on deck at all 
 times; but a portion of it was roped off once 
 a day for an hour or two, when the steerage 
 passengers could come up and enjoy the fresh 
 air. At such times the cabin passengers "^gen- 
 erally went below\" 
 
 The first day was spent on my cot, and at 
 
 night Mr. E^ proposed I should sleep there 
 
 next his wife, while he swung his hammock 
 just above us, and where he could reach us, in 
 case he was needed in the night. This was 
 altogether delightful to both Lena and myself, 
 as we dreaded that fearful berth. There were 
 a great many others who slept on deck — in 
 fact, everybody who could, — for it was much 
 pleasanter than a stuffy stateroom. Those who 
 could not have a standee camped on the seat 
 which ran along the edge of the deck, and 
 others, wrapped in their blankets, slept on the 
 floor for at least part of the night. All of these 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 23 
 
 were routed out by daylight by the men who 
 came to wash down the decks; but those who 
 were in standees could remain until the decks 
 were dry. After a few days the standees were 
 discarded — as everybody was able to sit up 
 and go to meals — until night, when many 
 were brought up and occupied by those who 
 were fortunate enough to secure them. 
 
 Lena had found pleasant companions, and 
 was gay as a bird. Neither then nor afterwards 
 was she the least trouble to me ; and I attrib- 
 uted many of the kindnesses I received to her 
 loving and dainty ways, which attracted most 
 of our companions. I had heard men so often 
 refer to children as unmitigated bores in trav- 
 elling that I had felt somewhat anxious on her 
 account where all were strangers. But I can 
 truly say that never once was I made uncom- 
 fortable on her account, or was she snubbed. 
 On the contrary, after we became a little ac- 
 quainted with people, I was often asked for the 
 *'loan of her for a while," and she was brought 
 back with a report of good conduct and a 
 desire for her company again. Upon my 
 expressing some surprise at this to a gentle- 
 man, he remarked that most children would 
 be liked and all tolerated, if their faces and 
 hands were kept clean, and they were made to 
 
24 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 mind their own business. I thought there 
 was a sermon in that for all mothers. 
 
 Having occupied a standee for several nights, 
 I thought myself equal to taking my berth 
 again. Upon going down to prepare it in some 
 measure, I found it had been used during that 
 day by a preacher for the purpose of taking a 
 wet pack to break up a fever. He was a friend 
 of my roommates, and a doctor among the 
 passengers had prescribed that treatment. As 
 I had only gone down twice a day for a few 
 moments, they felt justified in making such 
 good use of my berth. I quite fell in with 
 their idea, and gave up all further claim to 
 it, only using the stateroom for toilet purposes 
 when the others were on deck. 
 
 Now, that we were all well, making acquain- 
 tances was next in order, and from introduc- 
 tions to friends of Mr. Eastman, I soon had a 
 number of pleasant companions. I found this 
 trial trip of the "Illinois" and ''Golden Gate" 
 had been looked forward to and planned for by 
 a party of old Californians who had spent the 
 winter in the East, and were now returning. 
 Later on, I found they were rather notable 
 people; but then I knew them only as gentle- 
 men kind and attentive to a stranger, and 
 anxious to make the time pass pleasantly. All 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 25 
 
 had stories to tell of themselves or the new 
 country which I was soon to know, and which 
 seemed charming to me, an eager listener. 
 
 Tom 0. Larkin told of Monterey and south- 
 ern ranches. He had a famous watch-chain 
 of black pearls, and could tell some bit of his- 
 tory connected with each one. Benjamin Ken- 
 dig went to California in '49, stayed one year^ 
 and returned to New Orleans. He fitted out 
 a ship with merchandise and sent it to sea, 
 with his son, twenty-three years old, as super- 
 cargo. Nothing was ever heard of the vessel, 
 and Mr. Kendig was on a journey — round the 
 world, if need be, — in hopes of finding some 
 trace of his son. Tom Cahill — "Genial Tom," 
 they all called him, — placed his big bamboo 
 chair (which he slept in nights) at my disposal 
 during the day. It could be elevated or low- 
 ered to any angle desired, and was a most 
 luxurious resting-place. He had been in San 
 Francisco during the two great fires, in one of 
 which a dear brother perished before his eyes. 
 Many a sigh came from him when others 
 around were careless and happy, and we knew 
 what thought caused it. Isaac Friedlander had 
 gone to California in '49. He was so homesick 
 he could not stay; but after being home two 
 years was more sick to get back again. Speak- 
 
26 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 ing of his life in Charleston, South Carolina, he 
 mentioned a firm to which he felt particular- 
 ly indebted for kindness and assistance in his 
 early business career. The men comprising 
 that firm were my uncles, and I mentioned the 
 fact, which seemed to greatly please him, and 
 he assured me nothing would gratify him more 
 than to be of service to Lena or myself during 
 our journey. Mr. Cavalier, a French gentle- 
 man, made many efforts to be agreeable, but 
 as he spoke little English and I less French, 
 our attempts at conversation were a source of 
 much merriment to all of us. There was 
 another person who was a rather prominent 
 Californian. He kept much to his stateroom, 
 and no one seemed anxious for his society. 
 The man was Sam Brannan, a person of great 
 wealth and position in San Francisco for many 
 years. He entertained largely in his state- 
 room, and at times became very hilarious, and 
 had to be remonstrated with rather severely. 
 Among passengers from New York on a visit 
 to San Francisco, was Wilkes, of the Spirit of 
 the Times and Police Gazette. I made his ac- 
 quaintance through Dr. Mott, a son of old Dr. 
 Mott of New York, but of world-wide fame. 
 Mr. Wilkes seemed quite a pleasant person, 
 until one day I made confession that I had 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 2/ 
 
 never read a Police Gazette! To correct this 
 lack of intelligence, he brought me an armful 
 the next time he came on deck. I pitied his 
 apparent sorrow when I declined to read them, 
 and I am sure it was beyond his comprehen- 
 sion — such a lack of appreciation of what to 
 him was first-class literature. Of Fernando 
 Wood, it was said he was going out to ex- 
 change a hundred thousand dollars' worth of 
 New York property for a like value in San 
 Francisco with Tom 0. Larkin. I do not 
 know if this was so, or only steamer gossip. 
 
 Among all our passengers there were only 
 eighty women and children; but this was by 
 far the largest number which had ever crossed 
 at one time. When the dangerous nature of 
 the journey is considered, and the fact that 
 most of the men were fortune-hunters, who ex- 
 pected to make that fortune in two years, the 
 small number of women and children is not to 
 be wondered at. In that number, however, we 
 had all kinds — the gentle invalid, who was so 
 nervous! — the large, jolly one, who, sitting 
 bolt upright, with her arms crossed on her 
 capacious bosom, and arrayed in a loose gown 
 of immense pattern, made fun for everybody; 
 my Lady Vere de Vere, who in dignified state 
 sat in lofty silence apart from the motley crowd. 
 
28 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 Two representatives of the world of fashion 
 occasionally came out of retirement, and gaz- 
 ing around for a while, seemed to be oppressed 
 with that "tired feeling" which at the present 
 time is a distinctive feature of fashionable life. 
 They had been to Europe; and as that was a 
 much more uncommon affair then than it is 
 now% perhaps it accounted for the hlase appear- 
 ance which they so much affected. 
 
 One of another class there w^as, with three 
 of her chattels; but they kept so closely to 
 themselves w^e knew nothing of them. But 
 crossing the Isthmus she found a poor German 
 and his wife dying with fever by the roadside, 
 with two little children crying beside them. 
 While others passed them by, this poor soul 
 had them put on a litter and taken into Pan- 
 ama. There they died, and her money gave 
 them decent burial in consecrated ground. 
 Then putting the little ones into clean gar- 
 ments, albeit not the best of fits, she took them 
 on the steamer, and shared her room with 
 them. Whenever their clothing got dirty she 
 made bold to ask of mothers to give of their 
 abundance to the orphans, and was seldom 
 refused. She took these children to San Fran- 
 cisco, and placed them with good German peo- 
 ple, and saw that they were well brought up 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52, 29 
 
 and educated. A sum of money was placed 
 in such a way as to provide for all this, but 
 they never knew from whom it came. Would 
 my Lady Vere de Vere have done that? 
 
 One of my roommates w^as a plain, good 
 woman, happy in the thought of joining hus- 
 band and father, and the hope that the climate 
 would make him a strong man again. The 
 other was the wife of a street contractor in 
 San Francisco. He had made much money, 
 and invested a portion of it in specimen quartz 
 jewelry. She had a chain of great length, 
 reminding one of Dick's hat-band, which we 
 are told went three times round and tucked 
 under. Pins, rings, and buckles, all of speci- 
 men jewelry, and all worn morning, noon, and 
 night, made her a rather conspicuous person. 
 
 Another woman brought her little girl, who 
 after we crossed the Isthmus developed a case 
 of measles, the germs of which were sown 
 broadcast before we knew w^hat was the trou- 
 ble. Many a left-handed blessing was cast 
 after the unwitting offender after we landed 
 in San Francisco. Some were going to the 
 mines; others were waiting their arrival at 
 San Francisco to know where or w-hat w^as 
 their destination. But w^hy go on? Each 
 and every one had a hope or expectation as 
 
30 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 widely different as was their past and present 
 life. 
 
 One of the first things I did after I got over 
 my seasickness was to finish reading "Uncle 
 Tom's Cabin." From the time I opened the 
 book it became an object of interest to many 
 people. The steamer was officered by South- 
 ern people, and nearly all with whom I be- 
 came acquainted w^ere more or less in sym- 
 pathy with the South. It was not strange 
 then that my book and I came in for a goodl}^ 
 share of curiosity. I could not stop reading 
 a moment but some one would want to look 
 at it, "just to see what it was like." Of course, 
 no one could read a few words without wish- 
 ing for the whole, and I was besieged with 
 requests for it from w^ould-be borrowers. I was 
 perfectly willing to lend it; but soon realizing 
 the strong feeling it was creating, I made each 
 one who took it personally responsible for its 
 safe return. This became necessary from the 
 number who were waiting their turn, and I 
 thought it prudent to keep a close watch upon 
 it. Whenever it was returned some discus- 
 sion followed. There was no attempt to lessen 
 its merit as a book, but a great diversity of 
 opinion as to its truthfulness in depicting plan- 
 tation life. While I was not afraid to express 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 31 
 
 my belief on the subject, I shunned argument^ 
 feeling it would be extremely unpleasant to 
 create antagonism to me personally and could 
 do no good to the cause. The consequence 
 was all talked freely and good-naturedly on 
 the subject, and I got nothing worse than a 
 little raillery and being alluded to as the "Bos- 
 ton Abolitionist." How true my fears were 
 for the safety of my book was proven later on. 
 The last morning we were on the steamer it 
 was taken out of my satchel in my stateroom 
 while I was eating breakfast, and I never 
 heard of it afterward. 
 
 The last few days on the Atlantic side were 
 anything but pleasant, — for the weather had 
 become uncomfortably warm and several cases 
 of fever had developed, which, in our crowded 
 condition, created anxiety. 
 
 As we neared the Isthmus, the interest of 
 all centred in that much-dreaded part of our 
 journey. The papers had given accounts of 
 the dangers to be met with there — of robbers, 
 loss of baggage, of people being left behind 
 and having to wait for another steamer; and, 
 worst of all, getting the much dreaded Pan- 
 ama fever. We knew transportation facilities 
 were much improved ; still we believed there 
 was trouble of some sort ahead for us all. How 
 
:82 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 the eighty women and children were to be 
 disposed of when it came to mule carriage was 
 matter for much speculation. One woman 
 going to Salem, Oregon, had eight children, 
 ranging from a young man of nineteen to an 
 infant in arms. Some one asking her what 
 she expected to do with them when she came 
 to the mules, she said she expected to find 
 out when she did come to them, and not be- 
 fore. Anyway she was not going to worry 
 about it. The rest of us took the hint, and 
 there were fewer questions asked after this. 
 Dr. Mott had kindly offered to take care of 
 Lena and myself, and seemed to fear more for 
 our baggage than anything that might hap- 
 pen to us. He had, beside his ordinary trunk 
 of clothing, a case of surgical instruments, 
 which would be extremely valuable to him in 
 San Francisco, if he could get them there in 
 good condition. I showed him my order on 
 Covy & Co., at Aspinwall, which Mr. Adams 
 had given me, but told him candidly that after 
 my experience about my berth I did not know 
 as any order from him would be respected. 
 He thought it would be, and felt very hopeful 
 about it, and some others to whom he spoke 
 were sure it would be of great benefit to us. 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 33 
 
 PART II. 
 
 WE left the steamer at Aspinwall in the 
 early morning, and walked to the cars 
 in a drizzling rain. There were nine miles of 
 railroad completed, but there was nothing yet 
 done for the comfort of passengers — no depot 
 or waiting-room. But what a ride and what 
 a work the construction of that nine miles had 
 been ! 
 
 AVhen I first got in the car there was a terri- 
 ble crowd, and ' not seats for half the people. 
 It seemed as if some "one or many must be 
 crushed. A gentleman who was in the car 
 before we came gave me his seat, and then 
 picked up Lena and put her in my lap. See- 
 ing me interested in everything about us, he 
 answered patiently and with apparent pleasure 
 my innumerable questions about the countr}^ 
 and people. He introduced himself by telling 
 his name and position, which was a guarantee 
 for the truthfulness of his information. He 
 was Mr. Stevens, chief engineer in the construc- 
 tion department of the road. 
 
 First we talked of the difficulties of the 
 
d4 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 work. They had driven piles in many places 
 sixty feet deep, to get a foundation for the 
 sleepers. It seemed there was nothing but 
 decomposed vegetation as far down as that. 
 Then the difficulty with laborers was very 
 great, — for no one could work longer than a 
 week in that fever-laden air. If a man did 
 not leave then and fill up on quinine, he died ; 
 and most of them died anyhow. If the fever 
 was broken up, they took a cough which usu- 
 ally developed into quick consumption, and 
 that was the end of them. Mr. Stevens said^ 
 and I heard it from others afterward, that a 
 double row of these dead men could have been 
 laid on the wdiole of that nine miles. 
 
 This gentleman was an enthusiastic bot- 
 anist, and never once wearied of my many 
 questions concerning the wonderful flowers 
 and ferns which \yere in bewildering profusion 
 everywhere. Huge trees bore aloft great ban- 
 ners of moss and flung out trails and vines of 
 brilliant parasites. It seemed as if the ground, 
 burdened with its wealth of verdure, was 
 sending up emissaries to make a second world 
 of loveliness on the sunny tree-tops. I have 
 never visited a fine conservatory since without 
 seeing many a plant and flower which I saw 
 there growing in wihlest luxuriance. All were 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 35 
 
 not handsome, however; two were positively 
 wicked-looking, and I was not surprised to 
 learn they were very poisonous. 
 
 At the end of the nine miles of railroad, 
 we came to the Chagres river, where we were 
 to take boats for the next stage of our journey. 
 It took some time to get started, — for we had 
 to select our baggage and see it on the boat in 
 Avhich we were to go. Our boat took twenty 
 people and this baggage, which was piled in 
 the Qentre, in a sort of pyramid. The boat 
 was a flat-bottomed affair, with a seat which 
 ran all round the inner edge. The outer edge 
 was provided with a wide board, which served 
 as a sort of promenade, as it were, for the 
 boatmen. They had long poles, which they 
 stuck from the prow of the boat into the bot- 
 tom of the river, and held there while they 
 trotted back, and the boat glided along under 
 their feet the length of the pole. Running 
 forward again, they repeated the performance. 
 
 We had eight of these boatmen — big, black 
 fellows, almost naked. Desperately ugly in 
 looks, they proved equally so in character. 
 It was about nine o'clock when we w^ere fairly 
 under way. For the first hour or so it was 
 cool, and the river was shaded by trees. Then 
 the sun came out with a fierce heat, which 
 
36 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 caused the perspiration to pour off the boat- 
 men in copious streams, and eventually to 
 make them discard their solitary garment. 
 
 Almost every one was provided with thick 
 umbrellas, for protection from the sun, as well 
 as the showers, which were frequent and un- 
 expected. We would see a little thick, white 
 cloud, not unlike a bit of cotton, sailing in the 
 sky; and when it was over our heads it just 
 tipped up, and, after giving us a shower-bath, 
 passed serenely on. Then we steamed^ in the 
 heat of the sun, and, after being dried, were 
 consumed with fever. 
 
 People resorted to all sorts of things to 
 quench their thirst. Some took "fire-water," 
 in any quantity or quality they had in private 
 stock. Some provident ones had coffee pre- 
 pared for them before leaving the steamer, 
 and now drank it nearly all at once, and 
 thirsted mord than ever. One elderly person 
 had a bottle of pickled onions along, of which 
 he partook freely, and then drank the vinegar! 
 Some dipped up the water from the river and 
 drank, and repented ever after, for it had a 
 way of "cottoning" up in the mouth that was 
 intolerable. I had read somewhere that wet- 
 ting the wrists would allay fever. So when I 
 could bear the thirst no longer, I tried putting 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 37 
 
 my arm over the side of the boat for a few 
 moments, and found it a great relief. Soon 
 ever3^body was doing the same, and after this 
 there was less resorting to the bottle. 
 
 When our boatmen discarded their small 
 amount of clothing the female portion of our 
 company sought the seclusion of their umbrel- 
 las, whereupon the gentlemen commanded the 
 boatmen to resume their garments. A stormy 
 scene ensued, with the result that at the first hut 
 w^e came to on the bank of the river our men 
 deserted and left us to our fate. Their excuse 
 Avas they wanted breakfast; but after waiting 
 an hour for them, and being nearly suffocated 
 with heat, a delegation of well-armed men 
 sought them out, and found them fast asleep 
 under tlie trees. They were yelled at and 
 prodded with sticks, but being half drunk, it 
 was hard work to waken them. After much 
 threatening with knives and pistols, they sul- 
 lenly came down to the boat, with our men 
 bringing up the rear, with their weapons very 
 much in evidence. They were an ugly set, 
 and were constantly inventing excuses for 
 tying up at every hut that promised a drink 
 or snooze, which necessitated a constant watch- 
 fulness on the part of our men. 
 
 The terrible day wore on, and as the shadows 
 
38 ACROSS TPIE ISTHMUS 
 
 lengthened a little breeze came up, wliicli made 
 it possible to breathe with some comfort. At 
 sunset we reached Taverneer, where we were 
 to spend the night. The boat was run up on 
 a little gravelly beach, and we all got out so 
 cramped, sore, and miserable altogether as to 
 make walking, even the short space required, 
 almost an impossibilitv- AVe were here to get 
 supper, lodging, and breakfast. 
 
 Taverneer consisted of two log houses. One 
 was the tavern proper; the other a place where 
 the sick men were sent when no longer able to 
 work on the railroad. If any one ate of that 
 supper, I did not know it, — for all were suffer- 
 ing for an opportunity to loosen tlieir clothes 
 and stretch their limbs after the long confine- 
 ment in one position. This we were not allowed 
 to do until all had a chance to eat their sup- 
 per; and as there were people enough to oc- 
 cup}^ the tables several times replenished, it 
 took a long while. 
 
 At last a man took a candle and beckoned 
 us to the side of the room, where were slats 
 nailed to the logs, forming a rough ladder, and 
 we were expected to climb these slats to our 
 sleeping-rooms! We looked at each other in 
 dismay, and asked how we were to do it. The 
 serving-man could not speak a word of Eng- 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX 'o2. 39 
 
 lisb, and we no Spanish: so there we were 
 huddled together at the foot of the ladder — if 
 those slats were Avortliy that name — waiting 
 for something to turn up. Soon the men came 
 along, having been told that was the way to 
 their sleeping-room. So they literally lent a 
 hand, and by giving us one and using the other 
 to pull themselves up, we managed the ascent. 
 There was always one man between two wom- 
 en, to help in case of a misstep or lost grip. 
 After we were all up, the men looked around 
 for their separate quarters, and,lo and behold! 
 there was only the one garret for us all. This 
 seemed a dilemma, surely; but b}^ this time 
 we were "in for it," and had to take anything 
 that came our way; and the less we grumbled 
 the better. 
 
 The beds were single cots — no pillows, blan- 
 kets, or bedding of any kind. There were not 
 enougli cots for even the women and children; 
 so the men had to take the floor. I believe 
 every man who crossed the Isthmus had pro- 
 vided himself with a pair of blankets, and 
 many women also, or a heav}^ shawl, which 
 answered the same purpose. Some of the men 
 took their blankets and went down, thinking- 
 it would be pleasanter to sleep under the trees. 
 They soon returned, however, concluding any 
 
40 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 shelter was better than the night air and the 
 innumerable insects buzzing about. 
 
 Among our number were some young Ger- 
 mans who had a stock of diamonds and jew- 
 elry with them. They were determined not to 
 lose sight of their baggage for a moment; so 
 some were always on the watch, while the 
 others got a few winks of sleep. There was a 
 tarpaulin over the baggage, and some of our 
 party crept under it and slept there. 
 
 The crying of children with fever and thirst, 
 and the sick men who had persisted in drink- 
 ing all sorts of ''fire-water," contrary to the 
 advice of those who knew better, made night 
 hideous. The elderly person who had eaten 
 so freely of pickled onions and drank the vine- 
 gar awoke from a troubled sleep with a whoop 
 and a howl, and made haste for the one win- 
 dow, where he delivered up to Mother Earth 
 her own again — and felt better. 
 
 The chattering of monkeys, the shrieks of 
 night-owls, and every form of expression pos- 
 sible for paroquets, mocking-birds, and the 
 like, beside many others of which we had no 
 knowledge, made that niglit at Taverneer one 
 to be remembered, but a repetition of which 
 could hardly be desired. It seemed as if ever}^ 
 tree in that dense forest by Avhich we were sur- 
 
T(3 CALIFORNIA IX '52. 41 
 
 rounded was the home of beast or bird and 
 teeming with life which had hidden away or 
 slept during the heat of the day. Then the 
 woods were as silent as thougli every living 
 thing was struck dumb. Add to this the coughs 
 of the sick men in the other log house, and the 
 experience was not conducive to rest or sleep. 
 
 I sat on the floor as long as I could, and 
 then tried lying on the cot at Lena's feet, with 
 a bag for a pillow. Then giving up in despair 
 of rest, went to the window to look out on that 
 strange night, and take in its, to me, wonder- 
 ful aspects. The moon was shining brightly, 
 throwing shadows everywhere; and if any thing 
 had been lacking in the reality of tlie weird 
 scene, the fancy could easily fill the void. 
 
 While I was thus musing, a pistol-shot star- 
 tled us all and filled us with alarm. Some of 
 the men went on a tour of inspection, and re- 
 turned with word that a man in the boat shot 
 oft' his pistol, just to let people know he was 
 watching all right. I was told afterwards that 
 he saw a head of some kind peering over the 
 edge of the boat, and shot at it. He heard 
 nothing from it, and did not know what it 
 was; nor did he care, I imagine. If it was a 
 robber, all right; if a beast, all right. It was 
 not worth thinking about, anyway. 
 
42 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 As soon as it was daylight, we gathered our 
 belongings and descended from our sleeping- 
 quarters in the same order in which we as- 
 cended the night before; but being rather more 
 conspicuous in the morning light than by a 
 tallow dip, we did not accomplish it quite so 
 complacently. Our breakfast was a repetition 
 of supper, Avith the addition of coffee, which 
 was a veritable godsend ; and we took the pre- 
 caution to buy some crackers, which I reallv 
 think saved our lives that day. 
 
 Thefirstof our ride that mornino- was through 
 much the same scenery as the day before; but 
 that which so charmed us then became ex- 
 "Ceedingly monotonous now. Tree, fern, and 
 flower failed to draw our minds from our ex- 
 hausted bodies — exhausted from heat and want 
 of proper food and starved for sleep. I re- 
 member nothing of that day but a dreadful 
 consciousness of those conditions and a half- 
 stupid realization that the day was over, and 
 some one was encouraging me to make an 
 -effort to leave the boat and climb the steep 
 path at Gorgona. I was assured tliat the worst 
 was over, and a rest and good food at hand. 
 
 I looked at the hotel and doubted it. More 
 pretentious than Taverneer, certainly, but all 
 the stories I liad heard before I left home of 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 4o 
 
 robbery and murder at this place seemed quite 
 possible from the looks of the people swarm- 
 ing about. AVe were made to stop in the eat- 
 ing-room, as at Taverneer the night before, 
 until every one had a chance to eat, and I 
 wondered if the experience of getting to our 
 sleeping apartment would be repeated. 
 
 Fortunately there were stairs and beds — 
 really beds and bed-clothes. But sleep was 
 almost as hard to get as on the night before, 
 on account of the numbers of flying and creep- 
 ing things which, attracted by our light, 
 would swarm in the moment a door or win- 
 dow was opened. To sleep in a crowded room 
 without some place open was impossible. So 
 we divided up into watchers and sleepers. 
 AVhile some watched the children, wuth the 
 merest ghost of a light, and did battle with 
 the creatures which flew or crawled in, others 
 snatched a little rest and sleep. The morning 
 light showed us many dead things that made 
 us shiver, slain by a vigorous hand, wielding 
 a woman's shoe — our only weapon. 
 
 At intervals during the night other boats 
 arrived, and having unloaded their passen- 
 gers, the latter climbed the hill as we had 
 done, and were taken up in the great caravan- 
 sary. The noise of quarrelling and fighting 
 
44 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 going on in tlie saloon and gambling-room 
 seemed continuous, and just after midnight 
 there was added that of tlie mules comine: in 
 from Aspinwall to take us over the mountain. 
 ]\Iany of the mules had bells which kept up a 
 tinkling sound of varied tones. The "Hoop- 
 la!" of the muleteers, the jingling of their 
 spurs, and the delivery of every form of " cuss" 
 words known to man, went on until every beast 
 had his feed and every man his drink, and 
 then silence reigned. 
 
 The silence lasted only for a short time, 
 however, — for at the first ray of light the 
 "Hoop-la! " rang out again and again. Kicks 
 and oaths were delivered indiscriminately, 
 pack-saddles were cinched, and every mule in 
 waiting for his load. And what a sight they 
 were! Such broken-down, miserable beasts! 
 Hundreds of them, lame, halt, and blind, 
 ringboned and spavined, big and little, mostly 
 little, — everything that could be gathered up 
 in all the country, — were brought into requisi- 
 tion to carry the army of people who every 
 two weeks had to cross that mountain. 
 
 Dr. Mott had taken my order for special 
 transportation given me by Mr. Adams, to the 
 office at Aspinwall, and had been assured that 
 it would be properly attended to. But as I 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 45 
 
 stood on the porch that morning and looked 
 at the crowd of wretched animals and the 
 crowd of waiting people, I wondered if it was 
 possible for any one to find me if they wanted 
 to. Some one did want to find me. A man 
 whom I had noticed as one in authority came 
 up to me and asked if I was the person referred 
 to in tlie order he held? The order was the 
 one given me b}^ Mr. Adams. Being satisfied 
 that I was the right person, he asked for my 
 escort. I introduced Dr. Mott, and he then 
 took him to where he had our animals already 
 selected and waiting to be packed. 
 
 I have never experienced more complete 
 satisfaction and relief than when I saw that 
 little band come up for my inspection. First 
 were two good, strong mules for baggage, then 
 a riding mule for my escort, and one for our 
 especial muleteer, and, last of all, the dearest 
 pony for myself and a nice side-saddle. The 
 pony must have been some one's pet, — for the 
 gentle creature rubbed its nose on my shoul- 
 der and poked it into my hand, where it evi- 
 dently expected to find a tidbit, and treated 
 me altogether in a most friendly manner. Dr. 
 Mott's satisfaction was immense. That heavy 
 case of his as well as his other beloncrins^s 
 would be perfectly safe on that stout mule's 
 
46 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 back. While our -baggage was being packed, 
 we were getting ourselves ready for our ride. 
 Our movements were watched with the great- 
 est interest by other parties. How we could 
 have such fine animals, and I a horse and side- 
 saddle, seemed unaccountable, and some grum- 
 bling was indulged in. But the agent told 
 all such persons that his orders came from 
 headquarters and had to be carried out, and 
 that settled the question. 
 
 My baggage fitted on the mule just as I had 
 arranged for it. Dr. Mott's was a load for the 
 other mule. He took Lena on the saddle in 
 front of him. I had with me a long Scotch 
 shawl, which the muleteer wound around 
 them both in such a manner as to leave them 
 the use of their arms, but kept her from fall- 
 ing off, and left him free to guide his animal. 
 Our two travelling bags were tied to my sad- 
 dle; and so disposed we started off, in high 
 spirits and hopeful hearts, for our last day's 
 journey on land. 
 
 The gentle breeze of the mountain, so dif- 
 ferent from the sluggish and humid air which 
 had oppressed us on the river, seemed to make 
 all nature revive. P]ven the birds attempted 
 a feeble song occasionally, and the busy ants 
 hurried along, each with its bit of bright 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 47 
 
 flower, carried like a little sail on its back. 
 They seemed as anxious to get somewhere as 
 though the day were but an hour long. What 
 did these busy creatures do with this floral 
 burden, was a question we could not answer. 
 Sometimes there were several lines of them 
 going in one direction; others were returning 
 unladen. One never wearied of watching 
 their undulating lines as they faithfully fol- 
 lowed their leader around a bowlder, or root 
 of tree, or little pool of water wdiich the fre- 
 nuent showers made common along the road. 
 
 Our trail lay over a spur, or high peak, and 
 as we gradually ascended we frequently came 
 in sight of the Chagres river far below^ us, 
 bordered with huge trees, which were gar- 
 landed and festooned with brilliant flowers. 
 Toward noon tlie heat became oppressive, and 
 we w^ere obliged to stop occasionally to give 
 the animals a breathing-spell after a particu- 
 larly tough bit of climbing. 
 
 It was after one of these rests that our flrst 
 mishap occurred. When we were ready to 
 start we missed our muleteer and baggage 
 mules. We had been told by the agent at 
 Gorgona never to let them out of our sight, 
 and up to this time we had kept them in front, 
 calling the muleteer in when he seemed in- 
 
48 ■ ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 clined to o'et too far a way. But now he had 
 got the best of us, and disappeared as com- 
 pletely as though the earth had opened and 
 taken him in. Tiie Doctor shouted in vain, 
 and then rode back and forth through the 
 underbrush in a fruitless search which con- 
 sumed much valuable time and availed noth- 
 ing. 
 
 In a half-hour's ride we came upon a |)rob- 
 able solution of the desertion. Around a large 
 mud-hole or pond, tliere were a number of 
 disabled mules and stranded riders. Tlie ani- 
 mals, weak and tired out, would, as soon as 
 they came in sight of water, utterly refuse to 
 go farther and calmly lie down, as much of 
 themselves as they could in the water, and no 
 amount of profanity or prodding could move 
 them. The good woman witli the eight cliil- 
 dren, who "expected to get along somehow," 
 had been dumped partly in the mud, and as I 
 came in sight of her was dragged out, and 
 was being scraped off preparatory to mount- 
 ing another animal, when one could be found. 
 
 Some of the mules that had fallen or sat 
 down could not get up with their packs on, 
 and had them taken off and lighter ones put 
 on. If a good, stout mule came along which 
 seemed able to carrv more load than he had, 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 49 
 
 he was relieved of the lighter part, and the 
 heavy part of a weaker animal's load was put 
 on him. Any number of these changes were 
 made; but as we could see nothing of our 
 man or mules, we moved on considerably 
 sobered by our loss, and the Doctor nursing a 
 great wrath against our faithless muleteer. 
 
 At noon we reached the divide, and stopped 
 for dinner at a booth put up at the side of the 
 trail. There was little shelter for the table 
 in these few sticks and bushes, and a brisk 
 Vvind blowing brought clouds of dust on our 
 food, which was uninviting enough without 
 that addition. 
 
 A boiled ham, with the mouldy skin stick- 
 ing to it, a large dish of very dirty-looking 
 boiled rice, and some chunks of black bread 
 comprised the bill of fare. If you wanted a 
 drink, there was a bucket of water under a 
 tree and a gourd to drink out of; but there 
 was not much call for water among that crowd 
 of people. I took a little rice, but finding too 
 much dirt in the rice, left it for a piece of 
 bread, and got on my horse as soon as possi- 
 ble, — for the swarms of stinging flies made it 
 uncomfortable to stay in the booth. 
 
 We were now going down hill all the time, 
 and the effort to keep from going over our 
 
50 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 animals' heads was as great as it had been 
 before to keep from sliding off behind. After 
 a while of this riding we came to a pretty 
 thatched cottage, with a well under a big tree 
 in front of it, and we thought it was just the 
 place for a cool drink and a rest for the ani- 
 mals. I did not get off ni}^ horse, but the Doc- 
 tor did. He had seen a pair of bright eyes 
 and rosy cheeks in the cottage door, and could 
 not resist the temptation to air his little stock 
 of Spanish by making complimentary speeches 
 while asking for a cup to drink from. 
 
 I was smiling at his efforts, when I saw some- 
 thing which made me start and call quickly 
 for him to come to me. I said, "There is a 
 man watching you. Get on your male quick- 
 ly." He did not obey me a moment too soon, 
 — for a peon jumped from a thicket beside the 
 house, and but for the woman coming between 
 them I. have no doubt he would have given 
 Dr. Mott something to remember, if he had 
 not taken his life. His knife and pistol shone 
 brightly in his belt, and there was an angry 
 gleam in his eyes. 
 
 The Doctor made good time in getting away ; 
 and when 1 came up with him he was quite 
 willing to take a little wholesome advice, 
 which was to save his compliments for some 
 
TO CALIFORXIA IX '52. 51 
 
 one beside Spanish women, unless he was quite 
 sure they had no man about. 
 
 Our descent of the mountain was much 
 more rapid than the ascent had been, and the 
 knowledge that the worst of the journey was 
 nearl}^ over gave us courage to bear what was 
 still left to us. Now we began to see signs of 
 living in the increasing number of thatched 
 huts and paled-in bits of ground, overflowing 
 with fruits and vegetables. Children swarmed 
 around, entirely naked, and the paroquets 
 seemed as numerous and as much at home 
 as the children. They hopped on the chil- 
 dren's heads, crawled up their legs, pecked 
 at their food, and made thejiiselves quite 
 happy in any way which suited them. The 
 monkeys were also common, but not quite 
 as free, being usually fastened to something 
 about the hut. 
 
 The wonder was that children, birds, and 
 monkeys were not trampled under the ani- 
 mals' feet, — for there was no yard or fence ; 
 all seemed to live in the road, and made no 
 effort to get out of our way. 
 
 About three o'clock we rode into Panama, 
 hot, dusty, and weary beyond expression. We 
 had lost so much time in looking for our bag- 
 gage mules and muleteer that the greater part 
 
52 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 of the travellers bad found some sort of quar- 
 ters; but there were stragglers in plenty to 
 keep us company, and we stopped witb many 
 otbers at a long, low adobe building, labelled 
 ''Philadelphia House." We ordered dinner, 
 and when it was served we sat on benches, and 
 I suppose must have eaten, but I can not now 
 recall a thing on the table. 
 
 To have to sit on a wooden bench after be- 
 ing in the saddle since daybreak was almost 
 too much to endure. After a short trial of it, 
 I left the table and took a seat on the broad 
 window-ledge, where I could look out on the 
 busy street and get a breath of fresh air. Soon 
 Lena and the Doctor joined me, and after he 
 had made us as comfortable as he could with 
 our bags and shawls, he left us to go to the 
 transportation office, to see if our baggage had 
 come in. 
 
 I sat in the window watching the strange 
 sights and sounds until the sun began to go 
 down before I realized the lapse of time. 
 There was an old church nearly in front of 
 us which was entirely covered with seashells 
 of nearly uniform size. In front of that was a 
 little house, not unlike a guardhouse, but open 
 on all sides except one. On that side was fas- 
 tened a large font, filled with holy (?) water. 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 53 
 
 As the sun went down a chime of little bells 
 rang out from the church tower, and imme- 
 diately every man, woman, and child in the 
 street turned toward the little house. When 
 each one's turn came to enter in, he bent his 
 knee, dipped his fingers in the water, and 
 making the sign of the cross on his forehead 
 and bosom, passed quickly out, to make way 
 for others. Long after the bells had stopped 
 ringing, and the twilight had come on, strag- 
 glers from the fields and laborers of all kinds 
 came along; but no one passed by without first 
 entering the little house and paying his slight 
 devotions. 
 
 After it became quiet, I took Lena and went 
 over to the church, and the w^itchery of the 
 time and place was so strong upon me that I 
 believe I should have put my fingers in the 
 font had not the thought of those who had 
 been there before me and the looks of the wa- 
 ter entered a strong protest against it. But I 
 felt so alone, so entirely apart from everything 
 and everybody I had ever known, that for a 
 moment the full reality of what I had under- 
 taken came over me w^ith an overwhelming 
 force. I was afraid of myself, and ran back 
 into the old house with a feeling of being 
 pursued. 
 
54 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 The da34ight had lingered so long that, al- 
 though it was not dark outside, I found, on 
 looking at my watch, that it was nearly nine 
 o'clock ; and I felt very anxious about the 
 Doctor. Just then Mr. Friedlander came in. 
 He, too, had been at the transportation oftice, 
 looking after his baggage, and the Doctor had 
 asked him to tell me that one of our mules 
 had come in with his load all right, and he 
 hoped soon to get the other. He also said that 
 a friend of his who lived in Panama had in- 
 vited him to bring Lena and myself to spend 
 the night at his house. His wife, who was 
 from Boston, would be delighted to welcome 
 any one from there. The Doctor urged me to 
 hold out a little longer, and then I could have 
 a good night's rest in a decent house. 
 
 But the thought of staying in that place 
 any longer, with numbers of 2:)eople of all con- 
 ditions around me, was intolerable, and I 
 begged Mr. Friedlander to find some place 
 Avhere I could be alone, even if I had to sit up 
 all night. He said that he would do his best, 
 but every place was so crowded, and it was so 
 late that it seemed almost hopeless to get any- 
 thing. 
 
 . After a time which seemed endless, he re- 
 turned and said he had found a room — if it 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 55 
 
 could be called that — in the building next 
 the one we were then in; and, as there was a 
 Avhite woman there who could speak English, 
 he reall}^ thought I had better take it. I was 
 too glad of anything which promised rest and 
 seclusion to hesitate; so I went with him. He 
 took Lena in his arms — by this time she was 
 fast asleep — and delivered us over to the ser- 
 vant, with many regrets that he could not do 
 better by us. I think, however, if he had 
 known that night what the daylight revealed 
 to me, he would have felt doubtful about leav- 
 ing me there. 
 
 The room I had secured was perhaps eight 
 feet long and nearly as wide. The only furni- 
 ture in it was a cot, with no pillows or bed- 
 ding, one wooden chair, and in one corner a 
 washstand. There was a tin wash-basin and 
 a broken-nosed pitcher, but no water or tow- 
 els. After much coaxing and a generous tip, I 
 got the pitcher filled and two towels brought 
 me. 
 
 When the woman left, I examined my quar- 
 ters. The door by which we entered seemed 
 to open from a very wide corridor; but, as our 
 light was only one candle, I could not tell 
 much about it. Within the room was another 
 door, the upper part of which was an iron 
 
56 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 grating. Looking out of this, I saw that it 
 opened upon a balcony which ran around an 
 open court. There were trees and things down 
 there; but, although the moon was shining 
 brightly, making everything clear around 
 me, the court was in deep shadow, and one's 
 imagination could fill it with anything wild 
 and weird. 
 
 After making Lena as comfortable as I 
 could, I sat down to think what was best for 
 me to do. I had asked Mr. Friedlander to 
 tell the Doctor where I was, so that he would 
 be able to find me in the morning. As I had 
 his watch and money and a small box of val- 
 uables with me, I thought it possible he might 
 hunt me up during the night, if he got the 
 baggage all right. So I put my feet on the 
 chair, and sitting on the cot at Lena's feet, I 
 managed to get into a partly reclining posi- 
 tion, using my bag for a pillow. The air was 
 so soft and refreshing after the heat of the day 
 that one did not feel the need of much cover- 
 ing, and my ever-serviceable shawl answered 
 for both of us. 
 
 About twelve o'clock the Doctor came 
 around to tell me that the mule with my bag- 
 gage had come in, with the trunks all right ; 
 but mv bonnet-box had been taken of! and 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 57 
 
 some other person's heavy trunk put in its 
 place. The agents were very sorry about it, 
 but thought that it would be put on some 
 other mule, and probably get in before morn- 
 ing. So the Doctor, leaving particular in- 
 structions to have it put with our other bag- 
 gage, came to look after me. He was so sorry 
 to find me in such a miserable place that he 
 would gladly have taken me to his friend's 
 house, late as it was. But I was so completely 
 tired out that nothing could induce me to 
 make the change; so he gave up the idea of 
 going out himself, and camped somewhere in 
 the old house. 
 
 It seemed to me that I had only shut my 
 eyes again when loud talking and the sound 
 of many feet in the wide corridor put to flight 
 all thoughts of sleep. I soon found out the 
 cause of the coilimotion. The steerage passen- 
 gers all walked across the Isthmus. Some 
 took the upper (or Cruces) trail, and others 
 the lower one — the same that we came over. 
 Travellers over both routes had arrived near- 
 ly together, and finding all the cots taken, or 
 not wishing to pay for one, had got permis- 
 sion to sleep on the balcony around the court. 
 From the noise they made, I thought there 
 were hundreds of them. 
 
58 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 Some were so near my door that I could 
 hear their conversation, and something cauglit 
 my ear which aroused my keenest attention. 
 They were telling some others of the men who 
 had not been with them about a man who, 
 they said, had been " fool enougli to talk to a 
 pretty woman" at a place where they stopped 
 for water. He was w^arned against it; but 
 having taken just enough liquor to be brave, 
 persisted in his attention a little too long, and 
 was stabbed to the heart by the husband, who 
 was hiding near the house. 
 
 The man's companions at first ran away, 
 but afterw^ards gathered a few new-comers, 
 and returned to see if there w^as any life in 
 him. But he was "sure enough" dead. His 
 body w^as thrown aside in the bushes, and the 
 men passed on. No one seemed to know him, 
 and there was no time for burial. The great 
 ship was waiting for us, and one man more or 
 less did not count. If he had friends any- 
 where who looked for him, they looked in 
 vain, and then counted him with many others 
 who started on that perilous journey, and 
 ^vere left on the wa}^ either by sickness, acci- 
 dent, or murder. When I told the Doctor 
 what I had heard, he was more than ever con- 
 vinced he had a very narrow escape. 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 59 
 
 I sat at my door that night while the moon 
 lasted, looking at the ruins of churches and 
 other buildings, which were quite near me. 
 One had a particular fascination for me. There 
 were four immense openings, with rounded 
 arches joined to a wide cornice. All were 
 overgrown with ivy, vines, and ferns, which 
 swayed on top, or swung in the openings with 
 every gentle breeze. When the moon left me 
 in darkness, I made another attempt to sleep. 
 I may have succeeded ; but as the Babel of 
 donkey-bells commenced jingling at daylight, 
 it must have been for a very short time indeed. 
 The steerage passengers made haste to leave 
 the balcony and get to the ship, hoping to 
 secure a choice of bunks. 
 
 As soon as all had gone, I looked out again 
 for my ruin, and found it more fascinating- 
 even than during the night. The sun was 
 gilding the towers and tree-tops, and over all 
 were sailing in their slow, majestic flight great 
 numbers of buzzards. I thought I had never 
 seen anything so beautiful as their movements 
 were, — and the}^ were so far away I could not 
 know tlie}^ were '' noisome to sight and another 
 sense." I am glad now that I then knew noth- 
 ing of their unlovely nature, — for the picture 
 of that ruin in the morning light will remain 
 
60 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 with me as one of the most charming memo- 
 ries of my life. 
 
 The steamer was advertised to sail at ten 
 o'clock, and it was nine before the Doctor made 
 his appearance. I suppose I ought to have 
 been anxious about him, and fearful of being 
 left behind. But I could do nothing but wait. 
 I think I never cared less what became of me. 
 He hunted up the servant, and got her prom- 
 ise to bring me some breakfast, while he went 
 out for one more hunt for my bonnet-box. 
 My breakfast consisted of some black liquid 
 in a coffee-cup and a piece of dark-looking 
 bread. There had been sugar put in the' cup, 
 and when I stirred the liquid it gave forth 
 such a grating sound that I concluded I did 
 not want sweetening in mine. So, dipping 
 the bread in the cup, we ate what we could, 
 hoping for nothing but to sustain life until we 
 reached the steamer. 
 
 While waiting for the Doctor, I asked the 
 servant what kind of a house it was in which 
 I had passed the night. She told me it had 
 been a grand house; but when the travel be- 
 came so great, with such a demand for sleeping 
 facilities, it had been turned into one great 
 barn-like room, filled with standees, cots, and 
 bunks, where hundreds of men could spend 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 61 
 
 the night. Onl}^ a few rooms had been left 
 intact for the use of the family, and where I 
 had spent the night was one of them, and 
 seemed quite apart from the living portion of 
 the house. It was not a pleasant situation to 
 think over; but I was as safe probably as I 
 am at this moment, and I doubt if any one 
 knew a woman was there, or if they had known, 
 would have cared. It was wholly a time of 
 each one for himself. 
 
 At last the Doctor came for us. He had 
 waited as long as possible, hoping to get my 
 box, but was forced to give it up and send the 
 other baggage out to the steamer. 
 
 I may as well give the sequel to the box 
 affair here as elsewhere. When I arrived in 
 San Francisco I went to Adams Express Office 
 and reported my loss. I gave the whole his- 
 tory of Mr. Adams' personal eff'orts in getting 
 my tickets, ordering particular transportation 
 across the Isthmus, and the desertion of our 
 muleteer and the loss of my box, for which I 
 claimed three hundred dohars. I found after- 
 ward I could not have replaced its contents in 
 California for twice that amount. They took 
 down my statements very carefull}^, and on 
 the next trip the steamer made she brought 
 my box, which was forwarded to me many 
 
62 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 miles in the country, with everything in it as 
 nice, and sweet, and safe as if it had never 
 been lost or strayed away. I fancy from what 
 Mr. xVdams told me when he afterward came 
 to California that the transportation office in 
 Panama got a raking over and muleteers some 
 rough handling, which made baggage much 
 safer after that time, particularly light articles. 
 Before that they had been nearly all plun- 
 dered or stolen outright. I saw many persons 
 wlio had lost their light baggage in the same 
 way I had, but, unlike myself, never recov- 
 ered it. 
 
 The things that impressed me most that 
 morning, as we made our way to the steamer, 
 were, first, the streets, wdiich were no streets — 
 just a strip of ground paved with cobble-stones, 
 so laid as to dip toward the centre, forming a 
 gutter for surplus water. Tlien the absence 
 of teams, — I don't remember having seen a 
 vehicle of any kind. Only mules, mules every- 
 where! Then the absence of people, who all 
 seemed to have gone somewhere in the early 
 morning, for there were plenty of people at 
 that time, — some to church, others to market, 
 and others still to labor. 
 
 Soon we came in sight of the great steamer 
 lying far out in the bay. How were we to get 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 63 
 
 to it? There was no wharf or hinding-place. 
 We were now close to the water, which came 
 up in gentle ripples near our feet. All about 
 in the water were natives, big and little, old 
 and young, and among these little boats were 
 tossing idly about. Farther out, nearer the 
 steamer, many large barges, or lighters, were 
 hurrying along, each one trying to get its 
 human freight first on board. I saw all this, 
 and still thought how were we to get there? 
 But I had learned not to ask questions! 
 
 All at once, without a word of warning, I 
 was grabbed from behind. One black arm 
 was around my waist, another under my knees, 
 and I was lifted up and carried straight out 
 into the water. I wanted to scream, but a laugh 
 from the Doctor and a shout from Lena, who 
 were treated the same way, changed my mind. 
 The water deepened so gradually that it seemed 
 a long time before we reached one of the little 
 boats which I had looked upon as idle things, 
 and into which we were dumped without cere- 
 mony. One native was sufhcent to row us out 
 to one of the lighters; the others waded back 
 to shore. Our lighter was the last to reach 
 the steamer, and as we came up to her, there 
 were two still to unload before our turn came. 
 
 There were no women or children on the 
 
64 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 other boats, and only Lena and myself on ours. 
 It was high noon, and the heat was intense. 
 I doubted if I could live until those boats were 
 unloaded, with that terrible sun pouring its 
 rays on my unprotected head. Captain Pat- 
 terson, who commanded the "Golden Gate," 
 was standing at the stairs b}^ which the pas- 
 sengers got on board, and seeing Lena and 
 myself w^aiting in the sun, ordered one of his 
 men to pass us over the other boats and on to 
 the steamer. 
 
 The natives made no objection to Lena and 
 I being so passed, but when tlie Doctor at- 
 tempted to follow, he was set upon and held 
 back. I heard the noise and confusion of 
 tongues, and when I reached the top of the 
 stairs I looked around just in time to see a 
 native thrust his knife, as I thought, into the 
 Doctor's heart. 
 
 A shout went out from everybody, natives, 
 sailors, and passengers, and in an instant the 
 offender was thrown into the water, and made 
 to gain the shore as best he might. It was no 
 lack of intent on his part that he did not kill 
 wdien he struck, but his knife was caught on 
 an uplifted arm, and before he could repeat 
 the blow he was plunged into the water. Some 
 -one tied a handkerchief around the Doctor's 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 65 
 
 arm, and he came up to where I was standing, 
 looking very white, and the whole of his shirt 
 front spattered with blood. He was taken to 
 the surgeon's room and his arm dressed ; but 
 an artery had been cut, and he was much 
 weakened from loss of blood. 
 
66 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 PART III. 
 
 AT any time this sight would have been 
 distressing to me; but my three days of 
 exhausting travel and nights of unrefreshing 
 sleep had so unnerved me that I could bear 
 no more. I sank down on a coil of rope, and, 
 although I did not faint, I was very near in- 
 sensibility. I knew people were coming and 
 going — getting settled, I supposed ; but I could 
 do nothing but w^ait. Lena lay on my arm, 
 quite content to look on as long as she w^as 
 with me. 
 
 After a while some one came along, and see- 
 ing me in such an uncomfortable position, 
 took Lena and put her on a skylight, and 
 helped me to a bench beside her. He put my 
 shawls and bags about us, and I then felt 
 quite indifferent as to what else might hap- 
 pen. The steamer had started out, and a 
 refreshing breeze seemed to promise a chance 
 for life again. [ began to realize that the 
 deck was gradually clearing, and that soon I 
 would be, as once before on the " Illinois," 
 quite alone there. 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 67 
 
 I asked the first person I saw who looked 
 intelligent enough to deliver a straight mes- 
 sage, to ask the purser to " please come to me." 
 When he came I stated to him the circum- 
 stances connected with my ticket and loss of 
 berth on the "Illinois." He heard my story, 
 and said he would investigate. Soon he came 
 back with the same story I had been told 
 before, — " A party from New York had the 
 stateroom, and would not leave it," — but he 
 (the purser) would give me another just as 
 good. 
 
 I knew^ what that meant, and was determined 
 I would not be imposed upon again. I asked 
 to see the captain. The purser said all he 
 could to persuade me to take another berth, 
 "just while he could arrange things," he said. 
 I insisted upon seeing the captain, and said I 
 would wait there all night, if need be; but 
 take any other berth than the one I was en- 
 titled to, I would not! 
 
 Finding I really meant what I said, he sent 
 Captain Patterson to me. Again I went over 
 tlie story of my ticket. He listened politely, 
 and then asked if I had an escort or any one 
 else who knew of the circumstances. Yes; 
 Adams Express messenger had charge of me 
 on the steamers. Dr. Mott took charge of me 
 
68 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 on the Istlniius. " Where were they ?" The 
 messenger was probably looking after his ex- 
 press matter, and Dr. Mott was the gentleman 
 who was wounded while trying to pass me 
 over the lighters, and had gone to the sur- 
 geon's room. The captain began to look 
 interested. ''But," I said, " there are several 
 gentlemen on board to whom the captain of 
 the 'Illinois' had told my trouble, and he 
 assured them I should have my proper place 
 on this side." When I named them, he said 
 he would see about it and return soon, and 
 advised me to take another berth until he had 
 arranged matters. But I was not to be caught 
 that way again, and declined with thanks, 
 saying I preferred to make only one change. 
 
 It was not very long before he came back 
 with Mr. Friedlander, who corroborated all I 
 had said, and was quite determined to see me 
 righted on this side, if he could do anything 
 towards it. Again the captain offered me the 
 use of a stateroom to rest in while he could 
 make the changes necessary; and with Mr. 
 Friedlander's assurance that he would take 
 the matter into his own hands, I accepted and 
 "retired in good order." 
 
 Oh, the luxury of clean face and hands and 
 a change of clothing I Add to that a bowl of 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IX '52. 69 
 
 clean gruel, served by a clean woman, instead 
 of a nasty peon, and our satisfaction was com- 
 plete. 
 
 Toward evening Captain Patterson and Mr. 
 Friedlander again presented themselves — this 
 time with an attendant — to transfer our belong:- 
 ings to our own quarters, and for the second 
 time on that journey I felt I was making a 
 triumphant procession! Thanks to my persis- 
 tence, or stubbornness, my roommates on the 
 other side had gained their rights, and were 
 settled in stateroom K, first cabin, much to 
 their comfort and gratification. The " parties 
 from New York " were ousted, and none knew 
 whither they went. 
 
 Every one that afternoon was engaged in 
 a private "cleaning-up spell," but at dinner 
 time all were cheerful, and disposed to look 
 upon our troubles as being over. During the 
 night, however, there seemed much noise and 
 confusion, and next morning the breakfast 
 tables were comparatively deserted. We soon 
 learned the cause, which was that many of 
 our passengers had been taken sick with a 
 more or less serious attack of fever. Almost 
 every one who had eaten freely of fruit at 
 Panama was affected, and it seemed almost 
 impossible for any one to abstain when the 
 
70 ACR0S8 THE ISTHMUS 
 
 heat was so great and the water so bad. Many 
 had bought fruit and brought it on board the 
 steamer, partaking of it before going to bed. 
 Of those, I believe, none escaped the fever. 
 
 Before daylight one man died, and during 
 the next two days there were sixty cases of 
 fever and nine deaths! This state of things 
 was not generally known; but Dr. Holman, 
 the ship's surgeon, was one of the sick, and 
 Dr. Mott had taken his place among the pa- 
 tients. Of course, I knew what only a few 
 others did. 
 
 The day was Sunday, and it was the custom 
 for the captain to read a service. He thouglit 
 this a fitting time to commit "our brother" 
 to the deep. So we gathered on deck about 
 noon. The Episcopal service was read, and 
 some very good singing followed. Then the 
 body was brought out and placed on a plank 
 where all could see it. It had been sewn up 
 in a sail-cloth, and was Aveighted sufficientl}" 
 to insure a deep resting-place. The service for 
 burial at sea was read, and then the wheels 
 were stopped. The men uncovered their heads, 
 the plank was tipped over the side, and a 
 splash of water told the rest. 
 
 It is safe to say that of those who witnessed 
 this ceremony all who were at all indisposed 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 71 
 
 took to their berths and were very sure they 
 had the fever. The well ones told the sick of 
 this scene, and before night there was such an 
 alarming increase of new patients, and the 
 old ones were so much worse, that the captain 
 and doctors held a consultation and decided 
 upon a different course. The sick were iso- 
 lated as much as possible. We were told every- 
 body was getting well and that nobody died. 
 This view of the case really had a good effect 
 and lessened the terror of the fever. 
 
 Ajter this when a soul passed away nothing 
 was said about it, and when niglit came on 
 the ocean received tlie bod}^, and not so much 
 as one revolution of the wheel was stayed. 
 This was the easier done from the fact that 
 a majority of the sick, and I believe all who 
 died, were steerage passengers, and had no 
 one to particularly care for them. Of the 
 saloon andifetateroom passengers, all recovered 
 after a few days' illness; but I believe the 
 malarial sj^mptoms would recur years after. 
 One doctor stoutly maintained that if a per- 
 son once had Panama fever it was never wholly 
 eradicated from the system. 
 
 Lena and I escaped entirely, and I believe 
 it was due to caution in eating and drinking. 
 We drank no water unless in tea or coffee and 
 
72 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 ate no fruit except oranges, and these only in 
 the morning before breakfast. They were a 
 great thin-skinned, delicious fruit, and we were 
 never without them. 
 
 By the time we reached Acapulco, where we 
 stopped to coal, there were no new cases of 
 fever, and most of the old ones were in a fair 
 way to recovery. 
 
 At Acapulco were many people who made 
 great efforts to get on our steamer. There had 
 been a shipwreck ninety miles below, and of 
 those who were saved many had reached that 
 place, and were now very anxious to get on 
 some vessel going to San Francisco. We had 
 been from the first very much crowded, but 
 I am sure we saw many strange faces after 
 we left that port. 
 
 While we were lying there, the captain came 
 to the ladies' saloon with a pitiful story of a 
 woman who had been shipwrecked, and wa& 
 now at Acapulco, so very sick that the Sister-s 
 had taken her to the convent and were trying^ 
 to save her life. The person who had cliarge 
 of her had been to Captain Patterson, and 
 begged him to take her on his steamer, as he 
 was sure she would never recover in that hot 
 climate. There was no stateroom, or even 
 berth, unoccupied; but the captain said there 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 73^^ 
 
 could be a place made for her in our saloon, if 
 we did not object. No one did object; but 
 it was not a pleasant prospect to have a per- 
 son in our sight who might die at any mo- 
 ment. However, she was brought in on a 
 mattress, — and I never saw a living being look 
 so deathly. One good soul on board saw her 
 doleful state, and gave up his stateroom to 
 lier. She was moved into it the next morn- 
 ing. From the moment she came on board 
 she began to mend, and before we reached San 
 Francisco was comparatively well. She after- 
 Avard married Mr. Peck, of the firm of Well- 
 man, Peck & Co., and became rather notable 
 in connection with a long lawsuit involving 
 her husband's estate, wliich she gained but 
 did not live long to enjoy. 
 
 The day after we left Acapulco the captain 
 had some trouble with one of the stowaways,, 
 who had got on, no one knew how, at that 
 place. The man had been ordered to do 
 something and had not obeyed with the alac- 
 rity desirable on shipboard, for which he 
 was sent to the coal-hole. If there is any 
 hotter place than a coal-hole on a steamer in 
 the tropics, mortals have not yet found it, or 
 a way to live in it, and this poor fellow quiet- 
 ly lay down and died after a few hours' trial. 
 
74 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 Some one saw the man lying there, and re- 
 ported to the captain. He said the man was 
 probably shamming, and ordered a whipping 
 unless he went on with his work. The man 
 did not mind that a bit, and persisted in being 
 dead, which seemed to irritate the ca])tain, 
 and made him think something really ought 
 to be done about it. So that night he got the 
 doctors together, and they made a iwst morfchi 
 examination and found it was a case of brain 
 fever! Probably had it when he came on 
 board ! 
 
 This was the verdict of two physicians, 
 made out in proper form and duly signed, as 
 I understood, for future reference, in case any 
 question arose about the man's death. The 
 passengers' verdict was a little different, being 
 that the man died of liunger and thirst in a 
 coal-hole in the tropics. 
 
 This was our last unpleasant experience. 
 The sea was calm, the nights beautiful. While 
 the moon lasted, we would go on the wheel- 
 house and watch the phosphorescent liglit on 
 the water, looking as if we were in reality 
 sailing over a silver sea. The sight would 
 charm us into silence for a while; then some 
 one would hum a tune, one and anotlier would 
 fall in with some old-fashioned air, and we 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. <5 
 
 would wind up with all* sorts of tunes, or no 
 tune at all. 
 
 During the day how delightfully lazy we 
 were ! Those of us who had a bit of embroidery 
 about thought we worked some, but the result 
 was not worth mentioning. Every day some 
 incident arose in our little world which caused 
 as much gossip as though we were on land and 
 had our daily paper. I will say this much in 
 our favor: there were no quarrels or bicker- 
 ings, which I was told was very unusual, and 
 we rather dreaded the breaking up of our 
 pleasant intercourse. 
 
 We had only one rough day on this side. 
 While passing Cape St. Lucas we were beaten 
 and banged about in a rough sea, just as we 
 were going down for breakfast. Some returned 
 to their berths, and others persisted in their 
 efforts to dress, with varying success. Others 
 still, who felt like the canny Scot who had 
 " contracted for his food " and meant to get his 
 money's worth, went to breakfast only to fight 
 their way on deck again, and set down that 
 meal to account of profit and loss. 
 
 Sometimes we saw a sail at a distance, and 
 again a school of porpoises. Anything, every- 
 thing, little or big, caused a rush on deck and 
 animated discussion or exchange of opinion. 
 
76 ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 But as we neared the end of our journey, 
 all other interests were swallowed up in the 
 one anxiety of how much were we going to 
 beat all former records. Twenty-five days 
 was the shortest time in which the trip had 
 been made; l^ut Captain Patterson had said 
 he thought the "Illinois" and "Golden Gate," 
 being then the two fastest boats running to- 
 gether, could make it in twenty days, or in 
 twenty-two at the outside. 
 
 Now, as we sighted San Diego, we realized it 
 was to be no twenty days' trip for us, and some 
 bets were made as to how much less than the 
 twenty-five days' record w^e should make. San 
 Diego seemed a place of great interest to every- 
 body. It was the first land in sight, and to 
 those who had been to California before w^as 
 as dear to their hearts as though their lives 
 had been spent there. But it was " Old Cal- 
 ifornia! Hurrah and hurrah! for the bang- 
 upest place in the whole world!" Every glass 
 was brought out and levelled at what was sup- 
 posed to be San Diego; but as the captain's 
 desire was to keep as far out to sea as he could 
 consistent!}^ with his proper course, I doubt if 
 many of those who so persistenth^ glued their 
 eyes to their glasses really saw the land. But 
 it w^as " San D^'ego " and " San Deago " and 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 77 
 
 '' San Da/go " all day, every individual using 
 a pronunciation to suit himself. 
 
 When the "Golden Gate" went down to 
 Panama for us, she had taken San Francisco 
 papers, which had been sought after with the 
 greatest interest. There had been an election 
 of some kind, and followers of both parties 
 were on our ship. Two nights before we ar- 
 rived, every stateroom seemed to be holding a 
 political meeting. Speeches, hurrahs, and 
 songs made sleep impossible. I do not know 
 in the least what it was all about. One of the 
 songs was of that kind where there are any 
 number of verses made to order, and the chorus 
 — in which everybody joined — was, " And Solo- 
 men Heydenfeldt ! " This seemed to please both 
 parties immensely, and hearty cheers always 
 followed its utterance. 
 
 We reached San Francisco in the evening 
 of the twenty-third day out — beating all other 
 records by two and a half days, which, if not 
 all we wished, was a heat, anyhow. A pilot- 
 boat came out, bringing papers, which were 
 eagerly sought by those who knew anything 
 of the country. For us who were strangers a 
 quiet night's rest seemed the best preparation 
 for the new life we were to begin the next day. 
 I do not know if any one else slept. I know 
 
V« ACROSS THE ISTHMUS 
 
 I did not, but am only telling one woman's 
 experience, and how she felt about it. 
 
 We lay out in the bay that night, and the 
 next morning steamed up to the wharf in the 
 bright and beautiful sunshine. The strangest 
 sight then was the forest of dismantled ships. 
 It seemed to me there were hundreds of them^ 
 and their blackened spars cut out sharply 
 against the blue sky without a particle of canvas 
 on them. The ships had been deserted by their 
 crews, and the sails taken for tents, either here 
 or carried into the mines. They were a sorry 
 sight, lying there so idly fretting their lives 
 away. Very few ever floated a canvas again, 
 but became "old hulks," or were converted 
 into storehouses. Some were run up on the 
 flats as far as possible, and served as founda- 
 tions for buildings in locations now considered 
 the heart of the city. 
 
 As soon as we landed I sent some letters 
 which I had brought with me to their ad- 
 dresses. Sooner than I could have thought 
 possible, Caleb T. Fay answered one of them 
 in person. He took us to the Rassette House, 
 where I was to wait for messages from the 
 country. He treated me in the kindest man- 
 ner, and during my three days' stay there I 
 had few lonely hours, which but for his kind- 
 
TO CALIFORNIA IN '52. 79 
 
 iiess I might have had, as Lena was quite 
 sick, and I could not take her out or leave her 
 in the house without me. 
 
 When I entered my room that first day I 
 went to the window, which was a front one 
 and near the centre of the building, and looked 
 up the street a distance which seemed a few 
 blocks away. There all vestige of a street van- 
 ished, and the rickety fences ended in a sand 
 heap. 1 thought, "Can this ever be a city?" 
 And yet the spot where my eyes rested that 
 morning has been my well-beloved home for 
 thirty-two years! 
 
 No longer a sand-heap surely — but pleasant 
 and accessible beyond most parts of the city. 
 
 AVhen I left Boston, I said, "No; I will never 
 go backward! " I have kept my word, and no 
 shadow of regret has ever found a lodgment 
 in my heart for my venture. If days were 
 dark, I would rather have them here than 
 elsewhere, and if bright, they were all the 
 brighter for being in California. 
 
46 80 
 

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