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 T. NELSON AND SONS. LONDON I 
 
THE 
 
 NORTHERN COASTS OF AMERICA, 
 
 THE HUDSON'S BAY TERRITORIES 
 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY AND ADVENTURE. 
 
 
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 T. NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW; 
 
 AND EDINBURG 
 
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PREFACE. 
 
 The progress of Discovery lias ever been regarded with 
 the deepest interest by mankind. Whether viewed with 
 reference to its bearing upon the commercial interests of 
 nations, its valuable additions to the acquisitions of science, 
 or regarded as bringing to light many of the hidden 
 wonders with which the Great and Good Creator has so 
 plentifully stored our world, it is fraught with interest and 
 instruction. Among the various Expeditions of Discovery 
 by land and sea, none have claimed our attention or 
 enlisted our sympathies more powerfully than those into 
 the Arctic Regions. Nowhere has the navigator to con- 
 tend with difficulties so formidable; nowhere is nature 
 presented more vividly under so terrific and beautiful an 
 aspect — now howling in the fury of elemental strife, and 
 anon reposing in all the fairy-like brilliancy peculiar to 
 the icy oceans of the north; and nowhere has been more 
 strikingly exemplified at once the power and the impotency 
 of man. In the volume of this series entitled Polar Seas 
 and Regions, full and interesting details are given of the 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 various expeditions by sea to these frozen regions. But 
 before we could be said to have obtained a complete view 
 of the efforts made to explore the extreme north by the 
 nations of Europe, there remained to be completed another 
 branch of adventure, equally arduous, and more varied in 
 character. "We allude to the expeditions undertaken, 
 partly by land and partly by lake and river navigation, to 
 trace the Northern Coasts of America. This desideratum 
 the present volume will supply, and in combination with 
 the work alluded to, will be found to give a complete 
 account of the whole series of Northern Discoveries by 
 land and water, from the earliest period down to the pre- 
 sent time. 
 
 The beautiful and romantic scenery through which the 
 successive adventurers passed, the wild uncultivated natives 
 with whom they came into contact, the manifold dangers 
 they encountered among the lakes and foaming cataracts, 
 and the stirring rencontres they frequently had with the 
 ferocious animals that inhabit the North American wil- 
 derness, form a large portion of the following pages. 
 
NELSON AND SONS LONDON AND EDINBURC 
 
PROGRESS OF DISCOVERY 
 
 NORTHERN COASTS OF AMERICA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Discovery of North America — Early Voyages of the Portuguese, 
 French, and Spaniards. 
 
 First Discovery of North America by John Cabot — Yoyages of Sebas- 
 tian Cabot — Of the Cortereals — Discovery of Labrador — French Dis- 
 coveries — Voyages of Verazzano — Of Jacques Cartier — Discovery of 
 Canada — Spanish Voyages of Discovery — Cortes — Ulloa — Alarchon 
 — Viscaino. 
 
 When we peruse the lives of such men as De Gama and 
 Columbus, and consider the complicated difficulties over- 
 come by these early navigators, their imperfect means, and 
 the dark and defective state of their knowledge, it is diffi- 
 cult to repress astonishment at the success which attended 
 their exertions, and the magnitude and splendour of their 
 discoveries. In reflecting, indeed, upon so great a theme 
 as the revelation of a new world, it becomes us to raise our 
 minds from the region of second causes to the awful con- 
 templation of that Almighty Being, who confounds the cal- 
 culations of man by bringing stupendous results out of the 
 feeblest human preparations; and it is one of the finest 
 features in the character of Columbus, that he invariably 
 
2 COLUMBUS. [1493. 
 
 acted under the conviction of being selected by God for the 
 task which he at length accomplished ; but the admiration 
 with which we regard this great man — and that belongs, 
 though in an inferior degree, to many of his contempora- 
 ries in the field of discovery — is enhanced rather than dimi- 
 nished by this union of simple and primitive faith with 
 ardent genius and undaunted resolution. 
 
 A former volume* has been devoted to the description of 
 the daring efforts which have been made to explore the 
 Polar Seas ; and we now proceed to direct our attention to 
 another, and a no less interesting and important chapter in 
 the history of human enterprise — the discovery of North 
 America, and the progress of maritime adventure on the 
 more northern coasts of this vast continent. Without de- 
 tracting in any degree from the fame of Columbus, it may 
 be mentioned as a remarkable circumstance, that although 
 the admiral landed in Hispaniola as early as the 4th of 
 February 1493, he did not ascertain the existence of the 
 continent of South America till the 30th of May 1498 ; 
 whilst there is certain evidence that, almost a year before, 
 an English vessel had reached the shores of North Ame- 
 rica. As much obscurity hangs over the circumstances of 
 this early voyage, and as I have arrived at a conclusion 
 completely at variance with that adopted by a late acute 
 writer,-)- it will be necessary to dwell with some minuteness 
 on the history of this great event. 
 
 * Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas and Regions, by Sir 
 John Leslie, &c. London, 1853. 
 
 -j- The author of the Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, pp. 50, 51, an anony- 
 mous work (London, 1831), which contains much ingenious criticism 
 and valuable research. It is, however, unhappily confused in its arrange- 
 ment, and written throughout in a tone of asperity which, in the discus- 
 sion of a subject of remote biography, is unpleasant and uncalled for. 
 The author has been unjustly severe in his animadversions on the labours 
 of Hakluyt, of whom a brief Vindication will be found at the end of 
 th'i3 volumo. 
 
1494.} JOHN CABOT AND HENRY VII. 3 
 
 The attention paid to navigation by the commercial states 
 of Italy, and especially by the republics of Genoa and 
 Venice, is familiar to all acquainted with the history of 
 Europe during the fifteenth century. Italian merchants and 
 agents of opulent commercial houses were found settled in 
 every European state ; and the impetus communicated to 
 the human mind by the discoveries of the Portuguese and 
 the Spaniards rendered the sciences of cosmography and 
 navigation the most popular subjects of instruction which 
 were taught in the schools. A devotion to them became 
 fashionable among the noble and ardent youths, who asso- 
 ciated with them all that was romantic and delightful; 
 they were considered as the certain guides to daring and 
 successful maritime adventure, and the handmaids to wealth 
 and fame. It was about this momentous period, in the 
 year 1494, that we find a Venetian, named John Cabot, or 
 Gabota, residing in the opulent city of Bristol. At what 
 precise time he settled in England is not now discoverable; 
 we only know that he left Italy for the purpose of devot- 
 ing himself to the mercantile profession. He was one of 
 those enthusiastic spirits upon whom the career of Colum- 
 bus made a deep impression ; and about a year after the 
 return of the great Genoese from his first voyage, the 
 merchant of Bristol appears to have embraced the idea 
 that new lands might be discovered in the north-west, 
 and a passage in all probability attained by this course to 
 India.* Animated by such a project, Cabot addressed him- 
 self to Henry VII., and found immediate encouragement 
 from that monarch, who, though of a cold and cautious dis- 
 position, was seldom slow to listen to any proposal which 
 promised an increase of wealth to his exchequer. On the 
 5th of March 1495, the king granted his royal commission 
 
 * Tiraboschi, Storia della Letter. Ital., vol. vi. b. i. cap. vi. § 24. 
 
[1495. 
 
 to John Cabot, citizen of Venice, and his sons, Louis, 
 Sebastian, and Sanchez, committing to him and them, and 
 to their heirs and deputies, full authority to sail to all 
 countries and seas of the East, West, and North, under the 
 banner of England, with five ships of whatever burden and 
 strength in mariners they might choose to employ. The 
 equipment of this squadron was cautiously stipulated to be 
 made "at their own proper costs and charges;" and its 
 object stated to be the discovery of the isles, regions, and 
 provinces of the Heathen and Infidels, which hitherto had 
 been unknown to all the nations of Christendom, in what- 
 ever part of the globe they might be placed. By the same 
 deed the Cabots were empowered to set up the banners and 
 ensigns of England in the newly discovered countries ; to 
 subdue and possess them as lieutenants of the king ; and 
 to enjoy the privilege of exclusive trade ; — the wary mon- 
 arch, however, annexing to these privileges the condition, 
 that he was to receive the fifth part of the capital gain 
 upon every voyage, and binding their ships to return to 
 the port of Bristol. * 
 
 Two important facts are ascertained by this authentic 
 document. It proves that John Cabot, a citizen of Venice, 
 was the principal author of, and adventurer in, the project ; 
 and that no voyage with a similar object had been under- 
 taken prior to the 5th of March 1495. 
 
 The expedition, however, did not sail till the spring of 
 1497, more than a twelvemonth subsequent to the date of 
 the original commission. What occasioned this delay it 
 is now difficult to determine ; but, as the fleet was to be 
 equipped at the sole expense of the adventurers, it is not 
 improbable that Cabot had required the interval to raise the 
 necessary capital. It is much to be regretted that in no 
 
 * I have nearly followed the words of this important document, which 
 is still preserved. Kymer, Fcedera Angliae, vol. xii. p. 596. 
 
1497.] DISCOVERY OF NORTH AMERICA. 5 
 
 contemporary chronicle is there any detailed account of the 
 voyage. We know, however, that it was conducted by 
 John Cabot in person, who took with him his son Sebas- 
 tian, then a very young man. Its result was undoubtedly 
 the discovery of North America ; and although the parti- 
 culars of this great event are lost, its exact date has been 
 recorded by an unexceptionable witness, not only to a day, 
 but even to an hour. On an ancient map, drawn by Sebas- 
 tian Cabot, the son, whose name appears in the commission 
 by the king, engraved by Clement Adams, a contemporary, 
 and published, as there is reason to believe, under the eye 
 of Sebastian, was written in Latin, the following brief but 
 clear and satisfactory account of the discovery : — " In the 
 year of our Lord 1497, John Cabot, a Venetian, and his 
 son Sebastian, discovered that country, which no one before 
 his time had ventured to approach, on the 24th of June, 
 about five o'clock in the morning. He called the land 
 Terra Primum Visa, because, as I conjecture, this was the 
 place that first met his eyes in looking from the sea. On 
 the contrary, the island which lies opposite the land he 
 called the Island of St. John — as I suppose, because it 
 was discovered on the festival of St. John the Baptist. 
 The inhabitants wear beasts' skins and the intestines of 
 animals for clothing, esteeming them as highly as we do 
 our most precious garments. In war their weapons are the 
 bow and arrow, spears, darts, slings, and wooden clubs. 
 The country is sterile and uncultivated, producing no fruit ; 
 from which circumstance it happens that it is crowded with 
 white bears, and stags of an unusual height and size. It 
 yields plenty of fish, and these very large ; such as seals 
 and salmon : there are soles also above an ell in length ; 
 but especially great abundance of that kind of fish called 
 in the vulgar tongue Baccalaos. In the same island, also, 
 breed hawks, so black in their colour that they wonderfully 
 
6 DISCOVERY OP NORTH AMERICA [1549. 
 
 resemble ravens ; besides which, there are partridges and 
 eagles of dark plumage." * 
 
 Such is the notice of the discovery of North America ; 
 and as some doubt has lately been thrown upon the subject, 
 it may be remarked that the evidence of the fact contained 
 in this inscription is perfectly unexceptionable. It comes 
 from Clement Adams, the intimate friend of Richard Chan- 
 celor ; and Chancelor lived, as is well known, in habits of 
 daily intercourse with Sebastian Cabot, who accompanied 
 his father on the first voyage of discovery. Unfortunately, 
 both the original map and the engraving are lost; but 
 happily Purchas has preserved the information, that the 
 engraved map by Adams bore the date of 1549 ; -j- at which 
 time Sebastian Cabot was in such great reputation at the 
 court of Edward VI., that for his services he had received 
 a princely pension. This young monarch, as we learn from 
 Burnet, showed a peculiar fondness for maritime affairs. 
 He possessed a collection of charts, which were hung up in 
 his cabinet, and amongst them was the engraving of Cabot's 
 map. The inscription, therefore, must have been seen there 
 and elsewhere by Sebastian ; and, when we consider that 
 the date of the engraving corresponds with the time when 
 he was in high favour with the king, it does not seem impro- 
 bable that this navigator, to gratify his youthful and royal 
 patron, employed Adams to engrave from his own chart 
 the map of North America, and that the facts stated in 
 the inscription were furnished by himself. The singular 
 minuteness of its terms seems to prove this ; for who but 
 he, or some one personally present, after the lapse of fifty- 
 two years, could have communicated the information that 
 the discovery was made about five o'clock in the morning 
 of the 24th June ? If, however, this is questioned as being 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 6. f Purchas' Pilgrims, vol. iii. p. 807. 
 
1407-] BY JOHN CABOT, 7 
 
 conjectural, the fact that Sebastian must have seen the 
 inscription is sufficient to render the evidence perfectly con- 
 clusive upon the important point of John Cabot being the 
 discoverer of North America. That he had along with him 
 in his ship his son Sebastian, cannot, we think, in the opinion 
 of any impartial person, detract from or infringe upon the 
 merit of the father. But, to complete the proof, a late 
 writer has availed himself of an imperfect extract from a 
 record of the rolls, furnished by the industrious Hakluyt, 
 to discover an original document which sets the matter alto- 
 gether at rest. This is the second commission for discovery, 
 granted by Henry VII. on the 3d of February, and in the 
 thirteenth year of his reign, to the same individual who 
 conducted the first expedition. The letters are directed to 
 John Kabotto, Venetian, and permit him to sail with six 
 ships " to the land and isles of late found by the said John 
 in our name and by our commandment."* It presents a 
 singular picture of the inabilit}^ of an ingenious and other- 
 wise acute mind to estimate the weight of historical evi- 
 dence, when we find the biographer of Sebastian Cabot 
 insisting, in the face of such a proof as this, that the glory 
 of the first discovery of North America is solely due to 
 Sebastian, and that it may actually be doubted whether his 
 father accompanied the expedition at all. -J* 
 
 Immediately after the discovery, the elder Cabot appears 
 to have returned to England; and on the 10th of August 
 we find, in the privy purse expenses of Henry VII., the 
 sum of ten pounds awarded to him who found the New 
 Isle, which was probably the name then given to New- 
 foundland. Although much engrossed at this moment with 
 the troubles which arose in his kingdom in consequence of 
 the Cornish rebellion, the war with Scotland, and the 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 76. f Ibid- p. 50. 
 
8 JOHN CABOT KNIGHTED. [1497. 
 
 attempt upon the crown by Perkin Warbeck, the king de- 
 termined to pursue the enterprise, and to encourage a 
 scheme for colonization under the conduct of the original 
 discoverer. To this enterprising navigator he, on the 3d of 
 February 1497,* granted those second letters-patent just 
 alluded to, which conferred an ampler author; t j and more 
 favourable terms than the first commission. Ee empowered 
 John Kabotto, Venetian, to take at his pleasure six English 
 ships, with their necessary apparel, and to lead them to the 
 land and isles lately found by him according to the royal 
 command. Cabot was also permitted to receive on board 
 all such masters, mariners, pages, and other subjects as 
 chose to accompany him; and it seems probable, from some 
 entries in the privy purse expenses, that Launcelot Thir- 
 kill of London, Thomas Bradley, and John Carter, embarked 
 in the adventure. -j- 
 
 When about to set sail on his second voyage, John 
 Cabot, who had previously received from Henry the honour 
 of knighthood, appears, from some cause not now discover- 
 able, to have been prevented from taking the command;]: 
 and though the name of Sebastian was not included in the 
 second royal commission, he was promoted to the situation 
 left vacant by his father. He must still, indeed, have been a 
 young man ; but he had accompanied the first voyage, and at 
 an early age developed that genius for naval enterprise which 
 afterwards so remarkably distinguished him. We know 
 from his account of himself that, at the time his parents 
 carried him from Venice to London, he had attained some 
 
 * Old style— 1498, new style. 
 
 f See Mr. Nicholas' excellent collection entitled Excerpta Historica, 
 pp. 116, 117. 
 
 % The cause might be his death, but this is conjecture; of the fact 
 there is no direct proof: of the knighthood it is not possible to doubt. 
 See, in the Vindication of Hakluyt, the remarks on the errors of the bio- 
 grapher of Cabot in his chapter on this subject. 
 
1498.] ACCOUNT OF SEBASTIAN CABOT S VOYAGE. 9 
 
 knowledge of the sphere; and when about this period the 
 great discovery of Columbus began to be talked of in Eng- 
 land as a thing almost more divine than human, the effect 
 of it upon his youthful imagination was to excite " a mighty 
 longing," to use his own words, " and burning desire in his 
 heart that he too should perform some illustrious action."* 
 With such dispositions, we may easily imagine how rapid 
 must have been his progress in naval science, with the 
 benefit of his father's example and instructions. It is not 
 matter of surprise, therefore, that though probably not more 
 than twenty-three years old, the conduct of the enterprise 
 was intrusted to him. He accordingly sailed from England 
 with two ships in the summer of 1498, and directing his 
 course by Iceland, soon reached Newfoundland, which he 
 called Terra de Baccalaos, from the great quantity of fish 
 of that name. 
 
 Of this remarkable voyage a short account is preserved 
 by Peter Martyr, the historian of the New World, a writer 
 of high authority, and so intimate a friend of the navi- 
 gator, that, at the time he wrote the passage which we now 
 give, Sebastian was in the habit of paying him frequent 
 visits at his house : " These northern seas," says this writer, 
 "have been navigated and explored by Sebastian Cabot, 
 a Venetian by birth, whom his parents, when they were 
 setting out to settle in Britain, according to the common 
 custom of the Venetians, who for the sake of commercial 
 adventure become citizens of every country, carried along 
 with them when he was little more than an infant.f He 
 fitted out two ships in England at his own charges, and first, 
 
 * Eamusio, Viaggi, vol. i. p. 414. 
 
 •j" Cabot was born in England, and carried by his father into Italy 
 when four years old. He was afterwards brought back to England 
 when a youth, " assai giovane." — Eamusio, vol. i. p. 414. Memoir of 
 Cabot, p. 69. 
 
10 ACCOUNT OP SEBASTIAN CABOT'S VOYAGE. [1498. 
 
 with three hundred men, directed his course so far towards 
 the North Pole, that even in the month of July he found 
 great heaps of ice swimming in the sea, and almost con- 
 tinual daylight. Yet he saw the land free from ice, which 
 had been melted by the heat of the sun. Thus observing 
 such masses of ice before him, he was compelled to turn his 
 sails and follow the west; and, coasting still by the shore, 
 was brought so far into the south, by reason of the land 
 bending much to the southward, that it was there almost 
 equal in latitude with the sea called Fretum Herculeum. 
 He sailed to the west till he had the Island of Cuba on his 
 left hand, almost in the same longitude. As he passed 
 along those coasts, called by him Baccalaos, he affirmed 
 that he found the same current of the waters towards the 
 west which the Spaniards met with in the southern naviga- 
 tions, with the single difference that they flowed more 
 gently. From this circumstance it appears to me," says 
 Martyr, " not only a probable, but an almost necessary 
 conclusion, that there must exist, between both the conti- 
 nents hitherto unknown, great gaps or open places, through 
 which the waters continually pass from the east to the 
 west. * * * Sebastian Cabot himself named these 
 lands Baccalaos, because in the seas thereabout he found 
 such an immense multitude of large fish like tunnies, called 
 baccalaos by the natives, that they actually impeded the 
 sailing of his ships. He found also the inhabitants of 
 these regions covered with beasts' skins, yet not without 
 the use of reason. He also relates that there are plenty of 
 bears in these parts, which feed upon fish. It is the prac- 
 tice of these animals to throw themselves into the midst of 
 the shoals of fish, and, each seizing his prey, to bury their 
 claws in the scales, drag them to land, and there devour 
 them. On this account he says that these bears meddle 
 little with men. * * * Cabot is mv intimate 
 
1498-] ACCOUNT OF SEBASTIAN CABOT'S VOYAGE. 11 
 
 friend, and one whom it is my delight to have frequently 
 under my roof; for, being called out of England by the 
 command of the King of Castile after the death of Henry 
 VII., he was made one of our council and assistants relating 
 to the affairs of the new Indies ; and he looks daily for 
 ships to be fitted out for him, that he may discover this 
 hidden secret of nature. I expect," concludes Peter Mar- 
 tyr, " that he will be able to set out on his voyage during the 
 course of the next year, 1516, and in the month of March." * 
 When it is known that Sebastian Cabot's second voyage-]- 
 from England to North America did not take place till 
 1517, it becomes certain that the above passage, written 
 in 1515, must relate to the expedition of 1498; and re- 
 membering that the author was personally intimate with 
 this navigator, and wrote only seventeen years after the 
 voyage had taken place, we are inclined to set a high 
 value on such an authority. It is deeply to be regretted 
 that the original maps drawn by so eminent a discoverer, 
 and the discourses with which he illustrated them, are now 
 lo3t ; \ but in this deficiency of original materials, the work 
 of Ramusio — a collector of voyages who was a contempo- 
 rary of Cabot — supplies some valuable information. 
 
 In the first volume of his Voyages, this amusing writer 
 has introduced a discourse upon the different routes by which 
 the spices of the East were conveyed in ancient times to 
 Europe ; and towards the conclusion of the essay he brings 
 
 * Peter Martyr, De Orbe Novo, 3d decad. cap. 6. Edition by Hak- 
 luyt, p. 232. — Eden's Translation in Willes' Hist, of Travayle, p. 125. 
 — The hidden secret, or natural phenomenon, of which Cabot was ex- 
 pected to penetrate the cause, is stated by Martyr at p. 231. It was to 
 resolve the question, " "Why the seas in these parts run with so swift a 
 current from the east to the west?" 
 
 f Although the son accompanied the father, I consider the voyage of 
 1497 as solely conducted by John Cabot. 
 
 J Memoir of Cabot, p. 41. 
 
12 RAMUSIO'S ACCOUNT OF SEBASTIAN CABOT. [1496. 
 
 in a subject which then deeply occupied the attention of 
 learned men — the project, namely, for discovering a passage 
 to the kingdom of Cathay and the coasts of India, by the 
 north-west. In the discussion of this point, Ramusio 
 minutely describes a conversation which took place at the 
 villa of the celebrated Italian physician and poet, Fracas- 
 toro, between Ramusio himself, Fracastoro, an architect 
 named St. Michael, and a certain philosopher and mathe- 
 matician, who gave them an account of an interview which 
 he once had with Sebastian Cabot in the city of Seville. 
 The whole passage is interesting, whether we look to the 
 information regarding Cabot, or to the pleasing picture it 
 brings before us of the great Fracastoro in his philosophic 
 and classical retreat at Caphi. No apology, therefore, need 
 be made for presenting it to the reader. " Having thus 
 given you," says the Italian writer, " all that I could ex- 
 tract from ancient and modern authors upon this subject, 
 it would be inexcusable in me if I did not relate a high 
 and admirable discourse, which, some few months ago, it 
 was my good fortune to hear, in company with the excel- 
 lent architect, Michael de St. Michael, in the sweet and 
 romantic country-seat of Hieronymo Fracastoro, named 
 Caphi, situated near Verona, whilst we sat on the top of a 
 hill, commanding a view of the whole of the Lago di 
 Garda. * * * Being then, as I said, at Caphi, where we 
 had gone to visit our excellent friend Hieronymo, we found 
 him on our arrival sitting in company with a certain 
 gentleman, whose name, from motives of delicacy and re- 
 spect, I conceal. He was, however, a profound philosopher 
 and mathematician, and at that moment engaged in ex- 
 hibiting to Fracastoro an instrument lately constructed to 
 show a new motion of the heavens. Having reasoned 
 upon this point for a long time, they, by way of recreation, 
 caused a large globe, upon which the world was minutely 
 
1496-] RAMUSIO'S ACCOUNT OF SEBASTIAN CABOT. 13 
 
 laid down, to be brought; and having this before him, the 
 gentleman I have mentioned began to speak to the follow- 
 ing purpose." Ramusio, after this introduction, gives us, 
 as proceeding from the stranger, a great mass of geogra- 
 phical information, after which he introduces him discussing 
 with Fracastoro the probability of a north-west passage to 
 India. "At this point of his conversation," says he, 
 " after the stranger had made a pause for a few moments, 
 he turned to us and said, — ' Do you not know, regarding 
 this project of going to India by the north-west, what was 
 formerly achieved by your fellow-citizen the Venetian, a 
 most extraordinary man, and so deeply conversant in every- 
 thing connected with navigation and the science of cosmo- 
 graphy, that in these days he hath not his equal in Spain, 
 insomuch that for his ability he is preferred above all 
 other pilots that sail to the West Indies, who may not pass 
 thither without his license, on which account he is denomi- 
 nated Piloto Mayor, or Grand Pilot ?' When to this ques- 
 tion we replied that we knew him not, the stranger pro- 
 ceeded to tell us, that being some years ago in the city of 
 Seville, he was desirous to gain an acquaintance with the 
 navigations of the Spaniards, when he learnt that there 
 was in the city a valiant man, a Venetian born, named 
 Sebastian Cabot, who had the charge of those things, being 
 an expert man in the science of navigation, and one who 
 could make charts for the sea with his own hand. ' Upon 
 this report of him,' continued he, ' I sought his acquaint- 
 ance, and found him a pleasant and courteous person, who 
 loaded me with kindness, and showed me many things ; 
 among the rest a large map of the world, with the naviga- 
 tions of the Portuguese and the Spaniards minutely laid 
 down upon it; and in exhibiting this to me, he informed me 
 that his father, many years ago, having left Venice and 
 gone to settle as a merchant in England, had taken him to 
 
14 RAMUSIo's ACCOUNT OF SEBASTIAN CABOT. [1496. 
 
 London when he was still a youth; yet not so backward, 
 but he had then acquired the knowledge of the Latin tongue, 
 and some acquaintance with the sphere. It so happened, 
 he said, that his father died at that time when the news 
 arrived that Don Christopher Columbus had discovered the 
 coast of the Indies, of which there was much talk at the 
 court of Henry VII., who then reigned in England.' " 
 The effect of this discovery upon Cabot's youthful ambition, 
 which we have already alluded to, is next described by 
 Ramusio from the report of the stranger, and he then pro- 
 ceeds in these remarkable words : — " ' Being aware,' said 
 Cabot to me, ' that if I sailed with the wind bearing me in 
 a north-westerly course, I should come to India by a 
 shorter route, I suddenly imparted my ideas to the king, 
 who was much pleased with them, and fitted out for me 
 three caravels with all necessary stores and equipments. 
 This,' he added, * was in the beginning of the summer of 
 the year 1496, and I began to sail towards the north-west 
 with the idea that the first land I should make would be 
 Cathay, from which I intended afterwards to direct my 
 course to the Indies ; but after the lapse of several days, 
 having discovered it, I found that the coast ran towards 
 the north, to my great disappointment. From thence 
 sailing along it, to ascertain if I could find any gulf to run 
 into, I could discover none ; and thus having proceeded as 
 far as 56° under the Pole, and seeing that here the coast 
 trended towards the east, I despaired of discovering any 
 passage, and after this turned back to examine the same 
 coast in its direction towards the equinoctial — always with 
 the same object of finding a passage to the Indies — and thus 
 at last I reached the country at present named Florida, 
 where, since my provisions began to fail me, I took the 
 resolution of returning to England. On arriving in that 
 country, I found great tumults, occasioned by the rising 
 
1498.] SEBASTIAN CABOT. 15 
 
 of the common people and the war in Scotland ; nor was 
 there any more talk of a voyage to these parts. For this 
 reason I departed into Spain to their most Catholic Majes- 
 ties, Ferdinand and Isabella, who, having learnt what I 
 had accomplished, received me into their service, provided 
 for me handsomely, and despatched me on a voyage of 
 discovery to the coast of Brazil, where I found an exceed- 
 ing deep and mighty river, called at present La Plata, into 
 which I sailed and explored its course into the continent 
 more than six score leagues. * * * This,' continued 
 the stranger gentleman, addressing himself to us, ' is the 
 substance of all that I learnt from the Signor Sebastian 
 Cabot.' "• 
 
 Such is the passage from Ramusio ; and from it we have 
 another proof, that of this second voyage, which probably 
 took place after the death of the original discoverer, Sebas- 
 tian Cabot had the sole command ; that its object was to 
 find a north-west passage to India, and that the highest 
 latitude which he reached was 56°. I am quite aware 
 some of the statements in this extract are erroneous, and 
 that Gomara, an author of good authority, carries Sebas- 
 tian as far as 58° north ;-j- but, considering the particular 
 circumstances under which the information is conveyed, 
 there is no reason to doubt that the general sketch of the 
 voyage is correct; and it establishes the important fact, 
 that as early as 1498, the coast of North America, from 
 the latitude of 56° or 58° north to the coast of Florida, had 
 been discovered by the English. The domestic affairs of 
 Henry, however, and the involved political negotiations 
 with France and the continent, undoubtedly prevented the 
 king from holding out to Sebastian that encouragement 
 with which so great a discovery ought to have been re- 
 
 * Viaggi del Ramusio, torn. i. pp. 413, 414. 
 f Memoir of Cabot, p. 87. 
 
1G CORTEREAL. [1500. 
 
 warded; and after an interval of fourteen years, of which 
 we have no certain account, this great navigator left Eng- 
 land and entered into the service of Spain. 
 
 The Portuguese, a nation to whose genius and persever- 
 ance the sister sciences of geography and navigation owe 
 some of their highest triumphs, were at this period in the 
 zenith of their fame, animated with an enthusiastic spirit 
 of enterprise, and ready to consider every discovery not 
 conducted by themselves as an encroachment upon their 
 monopoly of maritime glory. Inspired with this jealousy, 
 Gaspar de Cortereal, of whose expedition notice has already 
 been taken in this Library,* determined to pursue the track 
 of discovery opened by Cabot in the north-west, and in 
 1500, sailed with two ships from Lisbon, animated by the 
 desire of exploring this supposed new route to India.-)- 
 Cortereal touched at the Azores, where he completed his 
 crews, and took in provisions. He then steered a course 
 never, as far as he knew, traced by any former navigator, 
 and came upon a country to which he gave the name of 
 Terra Verde, but which is carefully to be distinguished 
 from that called Greenland. This was in truth the coast 
 of Labrador, denominated in an old map published at Rome 
 in 1508, Terra Corterealis. It lay between the west and 
 north-west; and, after having explored it for upwards of 
 
 * Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas, 3d edition, p. 184, and 
 Lives and Voyages of Drake, Cavendish, and Dampier, p. 24. 
 
 f Cortereal had been educated in the household of the King of Por- 
 tugal before he came to the throne, and when he still bore the title of 
 Duke de Beja. — Damiano Goes, Chronica del Rey Dom. Manuel, c. QQ, 
 cap. 66, p. 187. His character, as given by this ancient and contem- 
 porary chronicler, is brief and forcible: " Gaspar de Cortereal, son of 
 John Vaz Cortereal, was a man of an enterprising and determined char- 
 acter, ardently thirsting after glory; for which reason he proposed to 
 set out on a voyage of discovery, seeking countries in northern latitudes, 
 we (the Portuguese) having at this time discovered many in southern 
 parts." 
 
1500.] CORTEREAL 17 
 
 six hundred miles without reaching any termination, Cortereal 
 concluded that it must form part of the mainland, which was 
 connected with another region discovered in the preceding 
 year in the north — evidently alluding to the voyage of 
 Sebastian Cabot in 1498.* The most curious and authen- 
 tic aecount of this remarkable expedition of the Portuguese 
 navigator is to be found in a letter, written by Pietro Pas- 
 quiligi, the Venetian ambassador at the court of Portugal, 
 to his brothers in Italy, only eleven days after the return 
 of Cortereal from his first voyage. " On the 8th of Octo- 
 ber," says he, "there arrived in this port one of the two 
 caravels, which were last year despatched by the King of 
 Portugal for the discovery of lands lying in the north, under 
 the command of Gaspar Cortereal. He relates that he has 
 discovered a country situated between the west and north- west, 
 distant from this about two thousand miles, and which before 
 the present time was utterly unknown. They ran along the 
 coast between six hundred and seven hundred miles without, 
 arriving at its termination, on which account they concluded 
 it to be the same continent that is connected with another 
 land discovered last year in the north, which, however, the 
 caravels could not reach, the sea being frozen, and a vast 
 quantity of snow having fallen. They were confirmed in 
 the same opinion by finding so many mighty rivers, which 
 certainly were too numerous and too large to have pro- 
 ceeded from an island. They report that this land is 
 thickly peopled, and that the houses are built of very long 
 beams of timber, and covered with the furs of the skins of 
 fishes. They have brought hither along with them seven 
 of the inhabitants, including men, women, and children ; 
 and in the other caravel, which is looked for every hour, 
 they are bringing fifty more. These people, in colour, 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 241. 
 
18 CORTEREAL. [1500. 
 
 figure, stature, and expression, greatly resemble gipsies; 
 they are clothed with the skins of different beasts, but 
 chiefly of the otter, wearing the hair outside in summer, 
 and next to the skin in winter. These skins, too, are not 
 sewed together, nor shaped to the body in any fashion, but 
 wrapt around their arms and shoulders exactly as taken 
 from the animals ; whilst the slight and partial covering 
 which they wear is formed with strong cords made of the 
 sinews or entrails of fishes. On this account their appear- 
 ance is completely savage; yet they are very sensible to 
 shame, gentle in their manners, and better made in their 
 arms, legs, and shoulders, than can be expressed. Their 
 faces are punctured in the same manner as the Indians; — 
 wme have six marks, some eight, some fewer; they use a 
 language of their own, but it is understood by no one. 
 Moreover, I believe that every possible language has been 
 addressed to them. They have no iron in their country, 
 but manufacture knives out of certain kinds of stones, with 
 which they point their arrows. They have also brought 
 from this island a piece of a broken sword inlaid with gold, 
 which we can pronounce undoubtedly to have been made 
 in Italy; and one of the children had in his ears two 
 pieces (todini) of silver, which as certainly appear to have 
 been made in Venice — a circumstance inducing me to 
 believe that their country belongs to the continent, since it 
 is evident that if it had been an island where any vessel 
 had touched before this time, we should have heard of it. 
 They have great plenty of salmon, herring, stockfish, and 
 similar kinds of fish. They have also abundance of timber, 
 and principally of the pine, fitted for the masts and yards 
 of ships; on which account his Serene Majesty anticipates 
 the greatest advantage from this country, both in furnishing 
 timber for his shipping, of which he at present stands in 
 great need, and also from the men who inhabit it, who 
 
1501.] CORTEREAL. 19 
 
 appear admirably fitted to endure labour, and will probably 
 turn out the best slaves which have been discovered up to 
 this time. This arrival appeared to me an event of which 
 it was right to inform you; and if, on the arrival of the 
 other caravel, I receive any additional information, it shall 
 be transmitted to you in like manner."* 
 
 Nothing could be more cruel and impolitic than the con- 
 duct of Cortereal, in seizing and carrying into captivity 
 these unfortunate natives ; and it is difficult to repress our 
 indignation at the heartless and calculating spirit with which 
 the Portuguese monarch entered into the adventure, con- 
 templating the rich supplies of slaves that were to be im- 
 ported from this new country. -J- It is an ingenious con- 
 jecture of the biographer of Cabot, to whose research we 
 owe our acquaintance with this letter, that the name Terra 
 de Laborador was given to the coast by the Portuguese 
 slave merchants in consequence of the admirable qualities 
 of the natives as labourers, and in anticipation of the profits 
 to be derived from a monopoly of this unchristian traffic. 
 
 But distress and disaster pursued the speculation. On 
 the 15th May 1501, Cortereal departed on a second voyage 
 with a determination to pursue his discovery, and, as we 
 may plausibly conjecture, to return with a new cargo of 
 slaves and timber; but he was never again heard of. A 
 similar dark and unhappy fate befell his brother, Michael 
 de Cortereal, who sailed with two ships in search of his 
 lost relative, but of whom no accounts ever again reached 
 Portugal. The most probable conjecture seems to be, that 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, pp. 239, 240. 
 
 f I observe that in the History of Discovery and Adventure in the 
 Polar Seas, Mr. Murray has questioned the accuracy of the opinion 
 stated by the biographer of Cabot, " that the objects of Cortereal's 
 second voyage were timber and slaves." The letter, however, of Pas- 
 quiligi seems to me decisive, that, if not the sole, they were at least very 
 principal objects in the second voyage. 
 
20 UNFOUNDED CLAIM OF THE PORTUGUESE. [1503. 
 
 they both fell victims to the just indignation of the natives, 
 whose wives, children, and fathers had been stolen away 
 during their first visit to the coast. " The king," says 
 Goes, " felt deeply the loss of these two brothers, so much 
 the more as they had been educated by him; and on this 
 account, moved by royal and gracious tenderness, in the 
 following year, 1503, he sent at his own expense two armed 
 ships in search of them; but it could never be discovered 
 where or in what manner either the one or the other was 
 lost, on which account this province of Terra Verde, where 
 it was supposed the two brothers perished, was called the 
 Land of the Cortereals."* The description of the inhabitants, 
 as given by this contemporary chronicler, contains a few 
 additional particulars to those mentioned by Pasquiligi. 
 11 The people of the country," says he, " are very barbarous 
 and uncivilized, almost equally so with the natives of Santa 
 Cruz, except that they are white, and so tanned by the cold, 
 that the white colour is lost as they grow older, and they 
 become blackish. They are of the middle size, very lightly 
 made, and great archers. Instead of javelins, they employ 
 sticks burnt in the end, which they use as missiles to as 
 good purpose as if they were pointed with fine steel. They 
 clothe themselves in the skins of beasts, of which there are 
 great plenty in the country. They live in caverns of rocks, 
 and in houses shaped like nests (choupanas). They have no 
 laws, believe much in auguries, live in matrimony, and are very 
 jealous of their wives, in which things they much resemble 
 the Laplanders, who also inhabit a northern latitude under 
 70° to 85°, subject to the kings of Norway and Sweden. "\ 
 Upon these voyages of the Cortereals the Portuguese at- 
 tempted to establish a claim to the discovery of Newfound- 
 land and the adjacent coasts of North America, though 
 
 * Damiano Goes, Chronica del Key Dom. Manuel, part i. c. 66. 
 f Ibid, c. 66, p. 87. 
 
1498.] SEBASTIAN CABOT'S RETURN TO ENGLAND. 21 
 
 there is ample historical evidence that both had been visited 
 by the two Cabots three years prior to the departure ot 
 Cortereal from Lisbon. Maps appear to have been forged 
 to support this unfair assumption ; and in a volume published 
 by Madrignanon at Milan in 1508, which represents itself 
 to be a translation of the Italian work entitled " Paesi 
 Nuovamente Ritrovati," the original letter of Pasquiligi, 
 describing the arrival of Gasper Cortereal, is disgracefully 
 garbled and corrupted, for the purpose, as it would seem, 
 of keeping the prior discoveries of the Cabots in the back- 
 ground, and advancing a fabricated claim for the Portu- 
 guese.* It is unfortunate that this disingenuous process of 
 poisoning the sources of historic truth has succeeded, and 
 that many authors, not aware of its apocryphal character, 
 which has been acutely exposed by the biographer of Cabot, 
 have given currency to the fable of Madrignanon. 
 
 About fourteen years after his return from the voyage of 
 1498, we have seen that Sebastian Cabot was induced to 
 enter the service of Spain; but, though highly esteemed 
 for his eminent abilities, appointed one of the Council of 
 the Indies by Ferdinand, and nominated to the command 
 of an expedition to the north in search of a north-west 
 passage, he appears to have been baffled and thwarted in 
 his plans by the jealousy of the Spaniards, and was at last 
 compelled to abandon them on the death of Ferdinand. 
 He then returned to England; and, indefatigable in the 
 prosecution of that great object which formed the prominent 
 pursuit of his life, induced Henry VIII. to fit out a small 
 squadron for the discovery of the north-west passage to India. 
 Unfortunately, however, for the success of the voyage, Sir 
 Thomas Pert, at this time Vice-Admiral of England, was 
 intrusted with the supreme command, whose want of courage 
 
 * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, pp. 251, 252. 
 
22 POLAR DISCOVERIES. [1498. 
 
 and resolution was the cause of its ultimate failure. The 
 object of Cabot was to proceed by Iceland towards the 
 American coast, which he had already explored as far as 
 56°, according to Ramusio, or, if we follow Gomara, 58° 
 north. This would lead him, to use the expression of 
 Thorne,* by the back of Newfoundland; and from this point, 
 pursuing his voyage farther to the northward, he expected 
 to find a passage to the kingdom of Cathay. The ships 
 accordingly set sail, and en the 11th of June they had 
 reached the 67-J of northern latitude. They here found 
 the sea open, and Cabot entertained a confident hope of 
 sailing through a bay, or "fret," which they had then 
 entered, to the shores of the Eastern Cathay, when a mutiny 
 of the mariners, and the faintheartedness of Sir Thomas 
 Pert, compelled him, much against his inclination, to desist 
 from the farther prosecution of the voyage, and return 
 home.-|- From the high latitude reached by this enter- 
 
 * Letter of Eobert Thorne. — Hakluyt, edition of 1589, p. 250. — 
 " And if they will take their course, after they be past the Pole, towards 
 the Occident, they shall goe in the back side of the Newfoundland, which 
 of late was discovered by your Grace's subjects, until they come to the 
 back side and south seas of the Indies Occidental : And so, continuing 
 their voyage, they may return thorow the Straight of Magellan to this 
 country, and so they compass also the world by that way ; and if they 
 goe this third way, and after they be past the Pole, goe right toward the 
 Pole Antarticke, and then decline towards the lands and islands situated 
 between the tropicks and under the equinoctial, without doubt they shall 
 find there the richest lands and islands of the world, of gold, precious 
 stones, balmis spices, and other thinges that we here esteem most, which 
 come out of strange countries, and may return the same way." See also 
 Gomara, as quoted in the Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 21. 
 
 j- It is evidently to this third voyage that the passage in Eamusio, 
 vol. iii. p. 4, of the " Discorso sopra il terzo volume," applies. Memoir 
 of Cabot, p. 117. It is valuable, as this author, though he appears by 
 mistake to have put the name of Henry VII. for that of Henry VIII., 
 quotes in it a letter which many years before he had received from 
 Sebastian Cabot himself. He (Eamusio), in speaking of the discoveries 
 subsequently made by Verrazzano, and of the country of New France, 
 remarks, that of this land it is not certain as yet whether it is joined to 
 
1498.] SEBASTIAN CABOT ENTERS HUDSON^ BAY. 23 
 
 prising seaman, as well as from the expressions employed 
 by Sir Humphrey Gilbert in speaking of the voyage, it 
 appears certain that Cabot had entered the great bay after- 
 wards explored by Hudson, and since known by his name.* 
 It is an extraordinary fact, therefore, but it rests upon 
 evidence which it would be difficult to controvert, that 
 ninety years before the first voyage of Hudson, he had 
 been anticipated in his principal discovery by an early 
 navigator, to whose merits the world have done little 
 justice. 
 
 Whilst the Portuguese, the Spaniards, and the English, 
 had early entered upon the career of discovery, the French, 
 a people undoubtedly of the highest genius and enterprise, 
 evinced an unaccountable inactivity upon this great subject, 
 and appeared to view with indifference the brilliant suc- 
 
 the continent of Florida and New Spain, or whether it is separated into 
 islands, and may thus admit of a passage to the kingdom of Cathay. 
 " Come," he proceeds, " come mi fu scritto gia molti anni sono, dal Sig- 
 nor Sebastian Gabotto nostro Vinitiano huomo di grande esperienza et 
 rara nell' arte del navigare, e nella scienza di cosmografia : il quale avea 
 navicato disopra di questa terra della Nuova Francia a spese del Ee 
 Henrico VII. d'Inghilterra e me diciva, come essendo egli andato lunga- 
 mente alia volta de ponente e quarta di Maestro dietro queste Isole poste 
 lungo la delta terra fini a gradi sessanta sette e mezzo sotto il nostro polo 
 a xi. di Gruigno e trovandosi il mare aperto e senza impedimento alcuno, 
 pensava fermamente per quella via di poter passare alia volta del Cataio 
 Orientale, e l'avrebbe fatto, se la malignita del padrone e de marineri 
 sollevati non l'havessero fatto tornare a dietro." This discourse is 
 dated 20th June 1553. 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 16. It must be recollected that Sir Humphrey 
 Gilbert had the advantage of having examined the charts of Sebastian 
 Cabot, which, he tells us, were then to be seen in the Queen's privy gal- 
 lery at Whitehall. It has also been acutely remarked by a late writer 
 (Memoir of Cabot, p. 29), that Ortelius, who died nine years before 
 Hudson undertook his first voyage, in the map of America, published in 
 his great geographical work, the " Theatrum Orbis Terrarum," has laid 
 down the form of Hudson's Bay with singular precision. Now, we know 
 by the list of authorities cited by Ortelius, that he was in possession of 
 a map of the world by Sebastian Cabot. The source, therefore, from 
 which he derived his information is evident. 
 
24 VERAZZANO's VOYAGE. [1524. 
 
 cesses of other nations. At length Francis I., a monarch 
 who was deeply smit with the love of glory, caught the 
 enthusiasm for maritime discovery, and eager to cope upon 
 equal terms with his great rival Charles V., fitted out a 
 squadron of four ships, the command of which he entrusted 
 to Giovanni Yerazzano, a Florentine navigator of great 
 skill and celebrity. The destination of the armament, 
 however, appears to have embraced the purposes of plunder 
 as well as of discovery ; and in a cruise, three of his vessels 
 were so much damaged in a storm, that they were com- 
 pelled, for the purpose of refitting, to run into a port in 
 Brittany, from which, impatient of the delay, the admiral, in 
 a single vessel named the Dauphin, set sail with a determina- 
 tion to prosecute discoveries. He first steered his course for 
 Madeira, and thence sailed in a westerly direction for twenty- 
 five days, making in that time five hundred leagues. A 
 storm now attacked him, in which his little vessel had nearly 
 perished; but he at last weathered the gale, and proceed- 
 ing onwards for four hundred leagues^ arrived upon a coast 
 that, according to his own account, had never before been 
 visited.* It is probable that this shore belonged either to 
 North or South Carolina ;-j- and the appearance of many 
 large fires on the beach convinced him that the country 
 was inhabited. Yerazzano, however, in vain sought for a 
 port; and after exploring the coast both to the south and 
 north without success, he was compelled to anchor in the 
 open sea, after which he sent his boat on shore to open an 
 intercourse with the natives. This he effected not without 
 some difficulty; for as soon as the French landed, the 
 savages fled in great trepidation; yet they soon after stole 
 back, exhibiting signs of much wonder and curiosity. At 
 
 * Eamusio, Viaggi, vol. iii. p. 420. — " Dovi scopsimmo una terra 
 nuova, non piu da gl'antichi ne da moderni vista." 
 
 f " Sta qucsta terra m gradi 34°." — Eamusio, vol. iii. p. 420. 
 
1524.] VERAZZANO. 25 
 
 last, being convinced that they had nothing to fear, they 
 completely recovered their confidence, and not only brought 
 provisions to the French, but assisted in drawing their boat 
 on shore, and carefully and minutely scrutinized every- 
 thing belonging to the vessels and the crew. They ad- 
 mired the white skin of the strangers, handled their dress, 
 and exhibited the utmost astonishment and delight. They 
 themselves were a handsome race of people, their eyes 
 dark and large, their expression bold, open, and cheerful ; 
 their chests were broad, and they combined middle stature 
 and symmetry of limbs with great nimbleness and swiftness 
 of foot. Their colour was tawny, not unlike the Saracens, 
 and they wore their hair, which was black and thick, tied 
 behind their head in a little tail, and sometimes ornamented 
 with a garland of birds' feathers. Their bodies were not 
 disfigured or tattooed in any way, and they walked about 
 perfectly naked, except that they wore short aprons of furs 
 fastened round their middle by a girdle of woven grass. 
 In the immediate vicinity of the coast the country was 
 sandy, rising into gentle undulations ; as they proceeded it 
 became more elevated, and was covered by noble woods, 
 consisting, not of the usual forest trees, but of the palm, 
 laurel, cypress, and others then unknown in Europe, which 
 grew to a great height, and diffused a delicious perfume 
 that was discerned far out at sea. " The land also," says 
 Verazzano in his letter to Francis I., " is full of many 
 animals, as stags, deer, and hares, which were seen sport- 
 ing in the forests, and frequenting the banks of pleasant 
 lakes and rivers ; nor were there wanting great plenty 
 and variety of birds of game, fitted to afford delightful 
 recreation for the sportsman. The sky was clear, the 
 air wholesome and temperate, the prevalent wind blow- 
 ing from the west, and the sea calm and placid. In 
 short, a country more full of amenity could not well be 
 
26 VERAZZANO. 524. 
 
 imagined."* An excellent author and navigator thinks it 
 probable that the spot where Verazzano first landed was on 
 the coast of Georgia, near the present town of Savannah.-j- 
 From this he proceeded along the shore, which turned 
 to the eastward, and appeared thickly inhabited, but so low 
 and open, that landing in such a surf was impossible. In 
 this perplexity a young sailor undertook to swim to land 
 and accost the natives ; but when he saw the crowds which 
 thronged the beach, he repented of his purpose, and al- 
 though within a few yards of the landing-place, his courage 
 failed, and he attempted to turn back. At this moment 
 the water only reached his waist ; but, overcome with ter- 
 ror and exhaustion, he had scarcely strength to cast his 
 presents and trinkets upon the beach, when a high wave 
 cast him stupified and senseless upon the shore. The 
 savages ran immediately to his assistance, and carried him 
 to a little distance from the sea, where it was some time 
 before he recovered his recollection; and great was his 
 terror when he found himself entirely in their power. 
 Stretching his hands towards the ship, he uttered a pierc- 
 ing shriek, to which his friends of the New World replied 
 by raising a loud yell, intended, as he afterwards found, to 
 encourage him. But, if this was sufficiently alarming, 
 their farther proceedings proved still more formidable. They 
 carried him to the foot of a hill, turned his face towards the 
 sun, kindled a large fire, and stripped him naked. No 
 doubt was now left in the mind of the unhappy man that 
 they were about to offer him as a sacrifice to the sun ; and 
 his companions on board, who watched the progress of the 
 adventure, unable, from the violence of the sea, to lend him 
 assistance, were of the same opinion. They thought, to 
 use Verazzano's own words, that the natives were going 
 
 * Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 420. 
 
 f Forster's Discoveries in the North, p. 433. 
 
1524.] VERAZZANO. 27 
 
 to roast and eat him.* But their fears were soon turned 
 into gratitude and astonishment ; for they only dried his 
 clothes, warmed him, and showed him every mark of kind- 
 ness, caressing and patting his white skin; and on observ- 
 ing that he still trembled and looked suspicious, they assisted 
 him to dress, conducted him to the beach, tenderly em- 
 braced him, and, pointing to the vessel, removed to a little 
 distance, to show that he was at liberty to return to his 
 friends. This he did by swimming to the ship's boat, which 
 had been put out to receive him, followed by the kind ges- 
 tures of the savages, who gazed after him till they saw him 
 safe among his friends. The spot where Verazzano found 
 this amiable people is conjectured by Forster to have been 
 somewhere between New Jersey and Staaten Island. 
 
 From this the Florentine sailed onward, observing the 
 coast trending to the northward, and after a run of fifty 
 leagues, came to anchor off a delightful country covered with 
 the finest forests. The trees, although equally luxuriant, 
 did not emit the same perfume as those before seen ; but 
 the region was rich, covered with grass, and thickly peopled, 
 although the natives appeared more timid than the last, and 
 avoided all intercourse. The sailors, however, discovered 
 and seized a family who had concealed themselves in the 
 underwood, consisting of an old woman, a young girl of 
 a tall and handsome figure, and six children. The two 
 younger of the little ones were squatted on the shoulders 
 of the old woman, and another child hung behind her back, 
 whilst the girl was similarly loaded. On being approached, 
 both the females shrieked loudly ; but having succeeded in 
 pacifying them, the sailors understood, by their signs, that 
 all the men had escaped to the woods on the appearance of 
 the ships. Much persuasion was now used to induce them 
 
 * Kamusio, vol. in p. 421. 
 
28 VERAZZANO. [1524. 
 
 to go on board; but although the elderly lady showed 
 symptoms of acquiescence, and eagerly ate the food which 
 was offered her, no entreaties could soften the obstinacy and 
 rage of the younger. She uttered piercing cries, cast the 
 meat indignantly on the ground, and rendered the task of 
 dragging her through the thick woods so tedious and dis- 
 tressing, that they were obliged to desist and leave her, 
 only carrying with them a little boy, who could make no 
 resistance.* The people of this country possessed fairer 
 complexions than those whom they had just left, and were 
 clad with large leaves sewed together with threads of wild 
 hemp. Their common food was pulse, but they subsisted 
 also by fishing, and were very expert in catching birds with 
 gins. Their bows were made of hard wood, their arrows 
 of canes headed with fish-bone, and their boats constructed 
 of one large tree hollowed by fire, for they appeared to have 
 no instruments of iron or other metal. Wild vines crept 
 up the trunks of the trees, hanging in rich festoons from 
 the branches, and the banks and meadows were covered 
 with roses, lilies, violets, and many sorts of herbs different 
 from those of Europe, yielding a fresh and delightful fra- 
 grance. 
 
 Verazzano now proceeded one hundred leagues farther, 
 to a sheltered and beautiful bay surrounded by gently rising 
 hills, and discovered a large river, which from its depth 
 seemed navigable to a considerable distance. Fearful, how- 
 ever, of any accident, they ascended it in boats ; and the voyage 
 conducted them through a country so full of sweetness and 
 attraction, that they left it with much regret, -j- Prosecut- 
 ing their discoveries fifty leagues eastward, they reached 
 another island of a triangular shape, covered with rich 
 wood, and rising into gentle hills, which reminded them of 
 
 * Kamuiso, vol. iii. p. 421. f Ibid. 
 
1524.] VERAZZANO. 29 
 
 Rhodes, both in its form and general aspect. A contrary 
 wind, however, rendered it impossible to land, and pursuing 
 their course about fifteen leagues farther along the coast, 
 they found a port where there was an excellent anchorage. 
 Here they were soon visited by the natives, who came in a 
 squadron of twenty boats, and at first cautiously kept at 
 the distance of fifty paces. Observing, however, the friendly 
 gestures of the strangers, they ventured nearer, and when 
 the French threw them bells, mirrors, and other trinkets, 
 they raised a loud and simultaneous shout expressive of 
 joy and security, no longer hesitating to row their boats to 
 the ship's side and come aboard. They are described by 
 Verazzano, in his account of the voyage sent to Francis I., 
 as the finest and handsomest race, and the most civilized in 
 their manners, of any he had yet met in America. Their 
 colour was fairer than that of the more southern people, 
 and in the symmetry of their forms, and the simplicity and 
 gracefulness of their attitudes, they almost vied with the 
 antique. They soon became exceedingly friendly and inti- 
 mate, and conducted the French into the interior of the 
 country, which they found variegated with wood, and more 
 delightful than can be easily described. Adapted for every 
 sort of cultivation, whether of corn, vines, or olives, it was 
 interspersed with plains of twenty-five or thirty leagues in 
 length, open and unencumbered with trees, and of such 
 fertility, that whatever fruit might be sown, was certain to 
 produce a rich and abundant return. They afterwards 
 entered the woods, which were of great size, and so thick 
 that a large army might have been concealed in them. The 
 trees consisted of oaks and cypresses, besides other species 
 unknown to Europe. They found also apples, parsley, 
 plums, and filberts, and many other kinds of fruit different 
 from those of Italy. They saw likewise many animals, 
 such as harts, roes, wolves, and stags, which the natives 
 
30 VERAZZANO. [1524. 
 
 caught with snares, and destroyed with bows and arrows, 
 their principal weapons of offence. The arrows were made 
 with great neatness, and at the point, instead of iron they 
 inserted flints, jaspers, hard marble, and other kinds of cut 
 stones. These they also made use of in felling trees, and 
 in excavating their boats, which, with great skill, were 
 made of a single trunk, yet large enough to hold ten or 
 twelve men commodiously. Their oars were short and 
 broad at the extremity, which they plied in the sea without 
 any accident happening, trusting solely to their strength 
 of arm and skilful management, and seeming able to go at 
 almost any rate they pleased. Their houses were constructed 
 in a circular shape, ten or twelve paces in circuit, built of 
 boards, and separated from each other without any attention 
 paid to architectural arrangement, covered with tiles made 
 of clay, of excellent workmanship, and effectually protected 
 from the wind and rain.* On one subject alone they showed 
 suspicion, being extremely jealous of the least intercourse 
 between the French and their women. These they would 
 on no persuasion allow to enter the ship, and on one occa- 
 sion, while the king came on board, and spent some hours 
 in curiously examining every part of the vessel, his royal 
 consort was left with her female attendants in a boat at 
 some distance, and strictly watched and guarded. -J- 
 
 The French now bade adieu to this kind people, and 
 pursued their discoveries for one hundred and fifty leagues, 
 exploring a coast which extended first towards the east and 
 afterwards to the north. The country still presented an agree- 
 able and inviting aspect, although the climate became colder, 
 and the regions along which they passed more hilly. A pro- 
 
 * Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 422. 
 
 f This country, according to Verazzano, was situated in 411° of lati- 
 tude (Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 422), which, if correct, would point it out as 
 the present flourishing state of Massachusetts. 
 
1524.] VERAZZANO. 31 
 
 gress of other fifty leagues brought them to a more mountain- 
 ous district than any yet seen, covered with dark and dense 
 forests, and possessed by a people whose habits and temper 
 seemed to partake of the severer nature of their country. 
 On attempting to open an intercourse, Verazzano found 
 them as fierce and sullen as those with whom he had lately 
 dealt were agreeable and generous. Twenty-five of the 
 crew who landed were received with a shower of arrows ; 
 and although the exhibition of articles of barter overcame 
 their scruples, and tempted them to agree to an interchange 
 of commodities, the manner in which this was effected 
 evinced a striking mixture of avidity and suspicion. They 
 came down to the beach, choosing the spot where the surf 
 was breaking most violently, and insisted that the French 
 boat should remain on the other side; a rope was then 
 passed from it to the shore, and the different articles were 
 swung along it. Strings of beads, toys, or mirrors, they 
 utterly despised; but eagerly received knives, fishing-hooks, 
 swords, saws, or anything in the shape of cutting-metal, to 
 be used in war or in the chase, though such was their savage 
 temper, that during the process of exchange they expressed 
 their aversion to the strangers by uncouth gestures of con- 
 tempt and derision. It seems probable that the country, 
 now for the first time visited by Europeans, was the present 
 province of Maine — as we are told by Verazzano, that a 
 farther run of fifty leagues along the coast brought him to 
 a cluster of thirty islands separated by narrow channels — 
 a description which points out, in precise terms, the Bay of 
 Penobscot.* 
 
 * Murray's North America, vol. i. p. 79. The veracity of the Flo- 
 rentine navigator, in his description of the ferocious habits of the natives, 
 is strikingly corroborated by the determined and rancorous hostility 
 evinced afterwards by the Indians of this district in opposing every 
 attempt at settlement. 
 
32 VEKAZZANO. [1524. 
 
 From this point he pursued his indefatigable course for one 
 hundred and fifty leagues farther, till he reached the land 
 already discovered, as he says, by the Britons, in the latitude 
 of 50°, which is evidently Newfoundland. Here his provi- 
 sions began to fail, and thinking it prudent to sail for France, 
 he reached home in safety in the month of July 1524. 
 
 Verazzano had thus completed the survey of a line of coast 
 extending for seven hundred leagues, and embracing the 
 whole of the United States, along with a large portion of 
 British America. It was undoubtedly an enterprise of great 
 magnitude and splendour, and deserves to be carefully re- 
 corded, not only as comprehending one of the widest ranges 
 of early discovery, but as making us for the first time ac- 
 quainted with that noble country whose history is so 
 important, and whose destinies, even after a progress un- 
 rivalled in rapidity, appear at this moment only in their 
 infancy. The Florentine gave to the whole region which 
 he had discovered the name of New France ; he then laid 
 before the king a plan for completing his survey of the 
 coast, penetrating into the interior, and establishing a 
 colony ; and he appears to have met with encouragement 
 from Francis I., who embraced his proposals for coloniza- 
 tion. From this moment, however, his history is involved 
 in obscurity. Hakluyt affirms that he performed three 
 voyages to North America, and gave a map of the coast to 
 Henry VIII. The biographer of Cabot asserts, that he 
 was the " Piedmontese pilot" who was slain on the coast 
 of America in 1527,* not aware that Verazzano was a 
 Florentine, and alive in 1537 ; and Ramusio could not 
 ascertain the particulars of his last expedition, or even dis- 
 cover in what year it took place. All that is certainly 
 known is, that it proved fatal to this great navigator. 
 
 * Memoir of Cabot, p. 278. 
 
1534.] CARTIER. 33 
 
 Having landed incautiously upon the American coast, he 
 and his party were surrounded and cut to pieces by the 
 savages; after which they barbarously devoured them in 
 the sight of their companions.* 
 
 The death of Verazzano appears to have thrown a damp 
 over the farther prosecution of discovery by the court of 
 France; but at length, after an interval of ten years, 
 Jacques Cartier, an enterprising and able mariner of St. 
 Malo, was chosen by the Sieur de Melleraye, Vice- Admiral 
 of France, to conduct a voyage to Newfoundland, which, 
 since its discovery by Cabot, had been seldom visited, and 
 was imperfectly known. Cartier departed from St. Malo 
 on the 20th of April 1534, with two ships r each of 60 tons 
 burden, and having on board a well-appointed crew of 
 sixty-one men.-[- The voyage appears to have been limited 
 
 * Such is the account of Eamusio in his Discourse upon New France, 
 vol. iii. p. 417. But Cardenas, in a work entitled " Ensajo Cronologico 
 para la Historia de la Florida" (p. 8), has committed an error similar to 
 that of the writer of Cabot's Life. He believes that Verazzano was the 
 same as Juan the Florentine, a pirate in the service of France, who was 
 taken by the Spaniards in 1524, and hanged. The evidence which over- 
 turns the theories of both these authors is to be found in a letter of 
 Annibal Caro, quoted by Tiraboschi, Storia della Letteratura Ital., vol. 
 vii. part i. pp. 261, 262, from which it appears that Verazzano was 
 alive in 1537. Lettere Familiari del. Comm. Annibal Caro, vol. i. p. 11. 
 In his great work, Tiraboschi has collected all that is known regarding 
 the life of this eminent discoverer ; but this all i"> extremely little. He 
 was born about the year 1485 ; his father was Pier Andrea Verazzano, a 
 noble Florentine, his mother Fiametta Capelli. Of his youth, and for 
 what reasons he entered into the service of Francis I., nothing is known. 
 The only published work of Verazzano is the narrative in Eamusio, ad- 
 dressed to Francis I., written with much simplicity and elegance. But 
 in the Strozzi Library at Florence is preserved a manuscript, in which 
 he is said to give, with great minuteness, a description of all the countries 
 which he had visited during his voyage, and from which, says Tiraboschi, 
 we derive the intelligence that he had formed the design of attempting a 
 passage through these seas to the East Indies. It is much to be desired 
 that some Italian scholar would favour the world with the publication of 
 this MS. of Verazzano. 
 
 f Eamusio, vol. iii. p. 435. 
 C 
 
34 CARTIER. [1534. 
 
 to a survey of the northern coast of Newfoundland, of which 
 he gives a minute description, dwelling particularly on the 
 zoological features of the country. He found the land, in 
 most parts, extremely wild and barren, " insomuch that 
 he did not see a cart-load of good earth ; and the inhabit- 
 ants were of stout make, but wild and unruly." The} T 
 wore their hair tied on the top like a bunch of hay, fixed 
 with a wooden bodkin, and ornamented with birds' feathers. 
 Like their companions whom Cabot had described, they 
 were clothed in beasts' skins, and ornamented their bodies 
 by painting them with roan-colours. They paddled about 
 in boats made of the bark of birch trees, in which they 
 carried on a constant trade of fishing, and caught great 
 numbers of seals. After having almost circumnavigated 
 Newfoundland, Cartier stood in towards the continent, and 
 anchored in a bay, which, from the extreme heat, was de- 
 nominated Baye du Chaleur. The description of the in- 
 habitants of this spot is striking and interesting. " Taking 
 our way," says he, " along the coast, we came in sight of 
 the savages, who stood on the borders of a lake in the low 
 grounds, where they had lighted their fires, which raised a 
 great smoke. We went towards them, and found that an 
 arm of the sea ran into the lake, into which we pushed 
 with our boats. Upon this the savages approached in one 
 of their little barks, bringing along with them pieces of 
 roasted seals, which they placed upon wooden boards, and 
 afterwards retired, making signs that this was intended as 
 a present for us. We immediately put two men ashore, 
 with hatchets, knives, garlands for the head, and such like 
 wares. On seeing these articles they appeared much de- 
 lighted, and crowded to the bank where we were, paddling 
 their barks, and bringing skins and other articles, which 
 they meant to exchange for our merchandise. Their num- 
 ber, including men, women, and children, was upwards of 
 
1534.] CARTIER. 35 
 
 three hundred. Some of the women, who would not venture 
 nearer, stood up to the knees in water, singing and dancing. 
 Others, who had passed over, came to us with great fami- 
 liarity, rubbing our arms with their hands, which they 
 afterwards lifted up to heaven, singing all the while, and 
 making signs of joy; such at last was their friendliness and 
 security, that they bartered away everything they had, and 
 stood beside us quite naked; for they scrupled not to give 
 us all that was on them, and indeed their whole wardrobe 
 was not much to speak of. It was evident that this people 
 might be, without difficulty, converted to our faith. They 
 migrate from place to place, and subsist themselves by fish- 
 ing. Their country is warmer than Spain, and as beauti- 
 ful as can be imagined — level, and covered even in the 
 smallest spots with trees, and this although the soil is 
 sandy. It is full also of wild corn, which hath an ear 
 similar to rye. We saw many beautiful meadows full of 
 rich grass, and lakes where there were plenty of salmon. 
 The savages called a hatchet, cochi; and a knife, bacon."* 
 All the navigators who had hitherto visited Newfoundland, 
 on reaching its northernmost point, appear to have sailed 
 across the Straits of Belleisle to Cape Charles, upon the 
 coast of Labrador; but the course of Cartier led him through 
 the straits into the great Gulf of St. Lawrence, now for the 
 first time visited by any European. His predecessor, 
 Verazzano, after reaching the shore of the Bay of Fundy, 
 had probably sailed along the coast of Nova Scotia until 
 he reached Cape Breton. Cartier, on the contrary, saw 
 before him a wide and extensive field of discovery to the 
 west, which he pursued for some time, directing his course 
 along the coast of the Bay of St. Lawrence ; but as the 
 season was far advanced, and the weather became precari- 
 
 * Rarnusio, vol. iii. p. 438. 
 
36 cartier's second voyage. [1535. 
 
 cms, he determined to reserve a more complete examination 
 of this unknown country for a second voyage, and returned 
 safely to France, coming to anchor in the port of St. Malo 
 upon the 5th of September 1534.* 
 
 Having been received with favour and distinction, Car- 
 tier, after a short interval, embarked upon a second voyage. 
 His squadron consisted of three ships — the Great Hermina, 
 of which Cartier himself was master, being a vessel of about 
 120 tons; the Little Hermina, of 60 tons; and the Hermi- 
 rillon, of 40 tons burden. The crews solemnly prepared 
 themselves for their voyage by confession and the reception 
 of the sacrament ; after which they entered in a body into 
 the choir of the cathedral, and stood before the bishop, who 
 was clothed in his canonicals, and devoutly gave them his 
 benediction. Having fulfilled these rites, the fleet weighed 
 anchor on the 15th of May 1535, and the admiral steered 
 direct for Newfoundland. His ships, however, were soon 
 after separated in a storm, and did not again join company 
 till the 26th of June ; after which they proceeded to explore 
 the large gulf which he had already entered. " It was," 
 to use the words of the navigator himself, " a very fair 
 gulf, full of islands, passages, and entrances to what wind 
 soever you pleased to bend, having a great island like a 
 cape of land stretching somewhat farther forth than the 
 others." This island is evidently that named by the 
 English Anticosti, being merety a corruption of Natiscotec, 
 the appellation at this day given it by the natives. To the 
 channel between it and the opposite coast of Labrador, 
 Cartier gave the name of St. Lawrence, which has since 
 been extended to the whole gulf. 
 
 On reaching the eastern point of the island of Anticosti, 
 the French, who had along with them two of the natives 
 
 * Kamusio, vol. iii. p. 440. 
 
1535.] cartier's second voyage. 37 
 
 of the country, whom they had induced in their former 
 voyage to accompany them to France, requested their advice 
 as to their farther progress. The savages stated, that the 
 gulf in which they now lay gradually contracted its dimen- 
 sions till it terminated in the mouth of a mighty river 
 named Hochelaga, flowing from a vast distance in the 
 interior of a great continent ; that two days' sail above 
 Anticosti would bring them to the kingdom of Saguenay, 
 beyond which, along the bank of the same river, was a 
 populous territory, situated at its highest known point, 
 where the stream was only navigable by small boats. 
 Having received this information, Cartier sailed onwards, 
 exploring both sides of the river, and opening a communi- 
 cation with the inhabitants by means of the natives whom 
 he carried along with him. The good effects of this arrange- 
 ment were soon seen ; for at first they fled in great alarm 
 upon the approach of any of the ships' crews ; but on hear- 
 ing the interpreters cry out that they were Taignaogny and 
 Domagaia — names which seemed to inspire immediate ideas 
 of friendliness and confidence — they suddenly turned back ; 
 after which they began to dance and rejoice, running away 
 with great speed, and soon returning with eels, fishes, grain, 
 and musk-melons, which they cast into the boats with ges- 
 tures expressive of much kindness and courtesy."* This 
 soon led to a more intimate and interesting intercourse; 
 and on the following day the lord of the country, who was 
 named Donnaconna, made a formal visit to the admiral's 
 ship, accompanied by twelve boats, in which were a great 
 multitude of his subjects. On approaching the vessel, he 
 ordered ten of these boats to ship their paddles and remain 
 stationary, while he himself, with the other two boats, and 
 attended by a suite of sixteen of his subjects, advanced over 
 
 * Ranrasio, vol. iii., p. 441. 
 
38 cartier's second voyage. [1535. 
 
 against the smallest of the French ships, and standing up, 
 commenced a long oration, throwing his body into a variety 
 of strange and uncouth postures, which were afterwards 
 discovered to he signs indicating gladness and security. 
 Donnaconna now came aboard the admiral's ship, and an 
 enthusiastic interview took place between him and the two 
 savages who had been in France.* They recounted with 
 much gesticulation the extraordinary things which they 
 had seen in that country, dwelling on the kind entertain- 
 ment they had experienced; and after many expressive 
 looks of wonder and gratitude, the king entreated the admi- 
 ral to stretch out his arm, which he kissed with devotion, 
 laying it fondly upon his neck, and showing, by gestures 
 which could not be mistaken, that he wished to make much 
 of him. C artier, anxious to evince an equal confidence, 
 entered Donnaconna' s boat, carrying with him a collation 
 of bread and wine, with which the monarch was much 
 pleased ; and the French, returning to their ships, ascended 
 the river ten leagues, till they arrived at a village where 
 this friendly potentate usually resided, and which was named 
 Stadacona. " It was," according to the original account of 
 Cartier, " as goodly a plot of ground as possibly might be 
 seen, very fruitful, and covered with noble trees similar to 
 those of France, such as oaks, elms, ashes, walnut trees, 
 maple trees, citrons, vines, and white thorns which brought 
 forth fruit like damsons, and beneath these woods grew as 
 good hemp as any in France, without its being either planted 
 or cultivated by man's labour."* 
 
 From this time the intercourse between the French and 
 Donnaconna continued with every expression of friendliness ; 
 but on hearing that the admiral had determined to go to 
 Hochelaga, a sudden jealousy appeared to seize him lest he 
 
 * Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 443. Seconda Relatione di Jacques Cartier. 
 f Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 216. 
 
1535.] CARTIER S SECOND VOYAGE. 39 
 
 and his people should be deprived of the advantages of an 
 uninterrupted communication with the white strangers, and 
 every possible device was put in execution to deter them 
 from their purpose. One of these stratagems was so ludi- 
 crous, that we may be permitted to give Cartier's account 
 of it in an abridgment of the quaint translation of Hakluyt : 
 " The next day, being the 18th of September, these men 
 still endeavoured to seek all means possible to hinder us 
 from going to Hochelaga, and for this purpose devised a 
 pretty guile : They went and dressed three men like devils, 
 being wrapped in dogs' skins, white and black, with their 
 faces besmeared as black as a coal, and horns upon their 
 heads more than a yard long." These figures they caused 
 to be secretly put into one of the boats, which they con- 
 cealed within a winding of the wooded bay, waiting patiently 
 for the tide. When the proper moment had arrived, a 
 multitude of the boats, crowded with natives and conducted 
 by Taignaogny, suddenly emerged from the creek ; on a 
 signal given, the boat in which were the counterfeit devils 
 came rushing out of its concealment, and the middlemost 
 devil standing up, made a long oration, addressed to the 
 French ships, of which of course every syllable was unin- 
 telligible. " Then," to resume the words of Hakluyt, " did 
 King Donnaconna with all his people pursue them, and lay 
 hold on the boat and devils, who, so soon as the men were 
 come to them, fell prostrate as if the}?- had been dead ; upon 
 which they were taken up and carried into the wood, being 
 but a stonecast off, at which time every one of the savages 
 withdrew himself into the wood, and when there began to 
 make a long discourse, so loud that it was easy for the 
 French to hear them even in their ships. When this ora- 
 tion or debate, which lasted for half an hour, was ended, 
 Cartier and his crew espied Taignaogny and Domagaia 
 coming towards them, holding their hands joined together, 
 
40 cartier's second VOYAGE. [1535. 
 
 carrying their hats under their upper garment, showing a 
 great admiration, and looking up to heaven. Upon this 
 the captain hearing them, and seeing their gestures and 
 ceremonies, asked them what they ailed, and what was 
 happened or chanced anew, to which they answered that 
 there were very ill tidings befallen, saying in their broken 
 French, ' Nenni est il bon,' that is to say, it was not good. 
 Our captain asked them again what it was, and then they 
 answered that their god Cudraigny had spoken in Hoche- 
 laga, and that he had sent those three devils to show unto 
 them that there was so much ice and snow in that country, 
 that whosoever went there should die ; which words when 
 the French heard, they laughed and mocked them, saying 
 that their god Cudraigny was but a fool and a noddie, for 
 he knew not what he said or did. They bade them also 
 carry their compliments to his messengers, and inform them 
 that the god whom they served would defend them from all 
 cold if they would only believe in him."* 
 
 Having thus failed in the object intended to be gained by 
 this extraordinary masquerade, the savages offered no farther 
 opposition, and the French proceeded in their pinnace and 
 two boats up the River St. Lawrence towards Hochelaga. 
 They found the country on both sides extremely rich and 
 beautifully varied, covered with fine wood, and abounding 
 in vines, though the grapes, from want of cultivation, were 
 neither so large nor so sweet as those of France. The 
 prevalent trees were the same as in Europe — oaks, elms, 
 walnut, cedar, fir, ash, box, and willow ; and the natives on 
 each side of the river, who appeared to exercise principally 
 the trade of fishermen, entered into an intercourse with the 
 strangers as readily and kindly as if they had been their 
 own countrymen. One of the lords of the country did not 
 
 Haklnyt, vol. iii. p. 218 ; and Kamusio, vol. iii. p. 444. 
 
1535.] cartier's second voyage. 41 
 
 scruple, after a short acquaintance, to make a present to 
 Cartier of two of his children, one of whom, a little girl ol 
 seven or eight years old, he carried away with him, whilst 
 he returned the other, a boy, who was considered too young 
 to travel. They saw great variety of birds, almost all of 
 which were the same as those of Europe. Cranes, swans, 
 geese, ducks, pheasants, partridges, thrushes, blackbirds, 
 turtles, finches, red-breasts, nightingales, and sparrows of 
 divers kinds, were observed, besides many other birds. 
 
 By this time the river had become narrow, and in some 
 places dangerous in its navigation, owing to the rapids ; and 
 the French, who had still three days' sailing before them, 
 left their pinnace and took to their boats, in which, after a 
 prosperous passage, they reached the city of Hochelaga. 
 It consisted of about fifty houses, built in the midst of large 
 and fair corn-fields near a great mountain, which the French 
 called Mont Royale, corrupted by time into Montreal, which 
 name the place still retains ; whilst the original American 
 designation of Hochelaga has been long since forgotten. 
 The city, according to Cartier's description, was round, 
 compassed about with timber, and with three courses of 
 ramparts, one within another, framed like a sharp spire, 
 but laid across above. The enclosure which surrounded 
 the town was in height about two roods, having but one 
 gate, which was shut with piles, stakes, and bars. Over 
 it, and also in various parts of the wall, were places to run 
 along, and ladders to get up, with magazines or heaps of 
 stones for its defence. The houses were entirely of wood, 
 with roofs of bark very artificially joined together. Each 
 house had a court in the midst of it, and consisted of many 
 rooms, whilst the family lighted their fire in the centre of 
 the court, and during the day all lived in common ; at night 
 the husbands, wives, and children, retired to their several 
 chambers. At the top of the house were garners where 
 
42 cartier's second voyage. [1535. 
 
 they kept their corn, which was something like the millet 
 of Brazil, and called by them carracony. They had also 
 stores of pease and beans, with musk-melons and great 
 cucumbers. Many large butts were observed in their 
 houses, in which they preserved their dried fish j but this, 
 as well as all their other victuals, they dressed and ate 
 without salt. They slept upon beds of bark spread on the 
 ground, with coverings of skins similar to those of which 
 their clothes were made.* 
 
 The reception of the French by the inhabitants of Hoche- 
 laga was in a high degree friendly ; and indeed such was 
 the extent of their credulity and admiration, that they con- 
 sidered the strangers as possessed of miraculous power, and 
 their commander a divine person. This was shown by their 
 bringing their king, Agonhanna, an infirm paralytic about 
 fifty years of age, to be touched, and, as they trusted, cured 
 by the admiral, earnestly importuning him by expressive 
 gestures, to rub his arms and legs ; after which the savage 
 monarch took the wreath or crown which he wore upon his 
 head, and gave it to Cartier. Soon after this they brought 
 with them all the diseased and aged folks whom they could 
 collect, and besought him to heal them ; on which occasion 
 his conduct appears to have been that of a man of sincere 
 piety. He neither arrogated to himself miraculous powers, 
 nor did he altogether refuse their earnest request ; but read, 
 from the Gospel of St. John, the passion of our Saviour, 
 and praying that the Lord would be pleased to open the 
 hearts of these forlorn pagans, and teach them to know the 
 truth, he laid his hands upon them, and making the sign of 
 the cross, left the issue of their being healed or not in the 
 hand of their Creator.-}- 
 
 *" Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 445 ; and Hakluyt, vol. iii. pp. 220, 221. 
 f Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 448. 
 
1535.J cartier's second voyage. 43 
 
 On inquiring into their religious tenets, he found that 
 they were buried in the deepest ignorance and superstition, 
 unacquainted with the existence of the only true God, and 
 substituting in his place a capricious and horrid being of 
 their own imaginations, named Cudraigny. They affirmed 
 that he often spoke to them, and told them what kind of 
 weather they were to have; but, if angry, would punish 
 them by throwing dust in their eyes. They had a strange 
 and confused idea regarding the immortality of the soul, 
 believing that after death they went to the stars, and de- 
 scended like these bright sparks by degrees to the horizon, 
 where they wandered about in delicious green fields, which 
 were full of the most precious trees, and profusely sown 
 with fruits and flowers. Cartier explained as well as he 
 could the folly of such a creed, persuaded them that Cud- 
 raigny was no god, but a devil, and at his departure pro- 
 mised to return again, and bring some good and holy men, 
 who would instruct them in the knowledge of the true and 
 only God, and baptize them in the name of his Son, with 
 which they declared themselves well pleased.* " There 
 groweth here," says Cartier, " a certain kind of herb, of 
 which during the summer they collect a great quantity for 
 winter consumption, esteeming it much, and only permit- 
 ting men to use it in the following manner : It is first 
 dried in the sun; after which they wear it about their 
 necks, wrapped in a little skin made in the shape of a bag, 
 along with a hollow piece of stone or of wood formed like a 
 pipe; after this they bruise it into a powder, which is 
 put into one of the ends of the said cornet or pipe, 
 and laying a coal of fire upon it at the other end, they 
 suck so long that they fill their bodies full of smoke 
 till it comes out of their mouth and nostrils, even as 
 
 * Kamusio, vol. iii. p. 4-19. 
 
44 cartier's second VOYAGE. [1535. 
 
 out of the tunnel of a chimney. They say that this 
 keeps them warm and in health, and never go without 
 some of it about them." It is not impossible that the 
 reader, perplexed by this laboriously minute descrip- 
 tion, may have failed to recognise in it the first acquaint- 
 ance made by the French with the familiar and far-famed 
 plant of tobacco.* 
 
 Not long after this the ships' crews were seized with a 
 loathsome and dreadful disease, caught, as they supposed, 
 from the natives, which carried off twenty-five men, reduc- 
 ing the survivors to a state of pitiable weakness and suf- 
 fering. The malady was then new to Europeans ; but the 
 symptoms detailed by C artier — swollen legs, extreme de- 
 bility, putrified gums, and discoloration of the skin and 
 blood — leave no doubt that this " strange, unknown," and 
 cruel pestilence, was the scurvy, since so fatally familiar to 
 the European mariner. Providentially, however, they dis- 
 covered from the savages a cure in the decoction of the 
 leaves and bark of a species of tree called in their lan- 
 guage hannida, and since well known as the North Ame- 
 rican white pine. " This medicine," says Cartier, u worked 
 so well, that if all the physicians of Montpelier and Lou- 
 vain had been there with all the drugs of Alexandria, they 
 would not have done so much in one year as that tree did 
 in six days."-f- 
 
 The French began now to make preparations for their 
 departure ; but a dishonourable plot was first carried into 
 execution, by which they succeeded in seizing Donnaconna, 
 whose usefulness and liberality to them during their resi- 
 dence in Canada merited a more generous return. The 
 monarch, however, with the exception of a slight personal 
 restraint to prevent escape, was treated with kindness, and 
 
 * liainusio, vol. iii. p. 449. f Ibid. p. 451. 
 
1536.] ROBERVAL. 45 
 
 soon became reconciled to his journey to Europe, although 
 his subjects, inconsolable for his loss, came nightly howling 
 like wolves about the ships, till assured he was in safety. 
 Along with Donnaconna were secured Taignaogny and 
 Domagaia, who had already been in France; and after a 
 prosperous voyage, the French ships arrived at St. Malo on 
 the 6th July 1536.* It might have been expected that, 
 after a discovery of such magnitude and importance, imme- 
 diate measures would have been adopted to appropriate 
 and colonize this fertile, populous, and extensive country. 
 This seemed the more likely, as the arrival of C artier and 
 the introduction of the Indian king at court created an 
 extraordinary sensation; yet notwithstanding the manifest 
 advantages, both commercial and political, likely to result 
 from a settlement in Canada, the weak and shallow preju- 
 dice which at this time prevailed in most of the nations 
 of Europe, that no countries were valuable except such 
 as produced gold and silver, threw a damp over the 
 project, and for nearly four years the French monarch 
 would listen to no proposals for the establishment of a 
 colony. 
 
 Private adventure at length came forward to accomplish 
 that which had been neglected by royal munificence, and 
 the Sieur de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy, requested 
 permission of Francis I. to pursue the discovery, and 
 attempt to form a settlement in the country. This the 
 king readily granted; and as Roberval was opulent, the 
 preparations were made on a great scale. He was created 
 by Francis, on the 15th January 1540, Lord of Norim- 
 bega, Lieutenant- General and Viceroy in Canada, Hoche- 
 laga, Saguenay, Newfoundland, Belleisle, Carpon, Labra- 
 dor, the Great Bay, and Baccalaos — empty and ridiculous 
 
 Ramusio, vol. in. p. 453. 
 
46 ROBERVAL. [1540. 
 
 titles, which, if merited by any one, ought to have been 
 conferred upon Cartier. This eminent navigator, however, 
 was only permitted to accept a subordinate command ; and 
 as Roberval, who wished to appear with splendour in his 
 new dominions, was detained in fitting out two vessels 
 which were his own property, Cartier was ordered to sail 
 before him with the five ships already prepared. He 
 accordingly did so; but Dormaconna, the Canadian king, 
 had died in France, and the savages, justly incensed at 
 the breach of faith by which they lost their sovereign, 
 received the French with an altered countenance, devising 
 conspiracies against them, that soon led to acts of open 
 hostility. The French now built for their defence, near 
 the present site of Quebec, a fort, which they named 
 Charlesbourg, being the first European settlement formed 
 in that part of America. After a long interval, Roberval 
 arrived at Newfoundland ; but a jealousy had broken out 
 between him and Cartier, who took the first opportunity 
 during the night to part from his principal, and return with 
 his squadron to France. This of course gave a death-blow 
 to the whole undertaking, for Roberval was nothing with- 
 out Cartier; and, after some unsuccessful attempts to dis- 
 cover a passage to the East Indies, he abandoned the 
 enterprise, and returned to his native country. The pas- 
 sion for adventure, however, again seized him in 1549, 
 and he and his brother, one of the bravest men of his time, 
 set sail on a voyage of discovery; but they shared the 
 fate of Verazzano and the Cortereals, being never again 
 heard of. These disasters effectually checked the enthu- 
 siasm of France, whilst in England, the country to whose 
 enterprise we have seen Europe indebted for her first 
 acquaintance with the American continent, the spirit of 
 maritime discovery appeared for some years almost totally 
 extinct. 
 
HERMAN CORTES. 
 The bold and comprehensive mind of Cortes, the conqueror of Mexico, not 
 content with the acquisition of that noble empire, formed the most extensive 
 projects of discovery. — Page 47 
 
i 
 
1537.] CORTES. 47 
 
 The plan of this historical disquisition now leads us to 
 the examination of some remarkable enterprises of the 
 Spaniards for the extension of their immense dominions in 
 the New World, along the more northern coasts of Ame- 
 rica. The bold and comprehensive mind of Cortes, the 
 conqueror of Mexico, not content with the acquisition of 
 that noble empire, formed the most extensive projects of 
 discovery. Alarmed at the attempts of the English to dis- 
 cover a northern passage to China and Cathay, he resolved 
 to make a careful survey of the whole coast, extending 
 from the River Panuco in Mexico to Florida, and thence 
 northwards to the Baccalaos, for the purpose of ascertaining 
 whether there might not exist in that quarter a communi- 
 cation with the South Sea. At the same time a squadron 
 in the Pacific was to sail along the western coast of Ame- 
 rica, and by these simultaneous researches he trusted to 
 find a strait affording a far shorter and easier route to 
 India and the Moluccas, and connecting together the vast 
 dominions of the Spanish crown.* Charles V., to whom 
 these proposals were presented, although willing to en- 
 courage every scheme for the extension of his power, 
 ungenerously threw upon their author the whole expense 
 of the undertaking; in consequence of which, the idea of 
 the voyage for the discovery of a north-west passage was 
 abandoned, and the magnificent designs for the conquest 
 of many great and opulent kingdoms sunk at last into the 
 equipment of two brigantines on the coast of the South 
 Sea, the command of which was intrusted to Diego de 
 Hurtado. This expedition ended calamitously in a mutiny 
 of one of the crews, who brought back their ship to 
 Xalisco : the fate of Hurtado was still more unfortunate, 
 for, although he continued his voyage, neither he nor any of 
 
 * Eamusio, vol. Hi. p. 295. Memoir of Cabot, p. 263. 
 
48 DISCOVERY OF CALIFORNIA. [1539. 
 
 his crew were ever more heard of. A second expedition, 
 intrusted by Cortes to two Spanish captains, Grijalva and 
 Mendoza, was scarcely more fortunate : The vessels were 
 separated on the first night of their voyage, and never 
 again joined company. Grijalva penetrated to an island 
 which he denominated Santa Tome, supposed to have been 
 situated near the northern point of California, after which 
 he returned to Tehuantepec; whilst Mendoza, by his 
 haughty and tyrannical temper, having rendered himself 
 odious to his crew, was murdered by the pilot, Ximenes, 
 who assumed the command. Afraid of returning to Mexico, 
 the traitor sailed northward, and discovered the coast of 
 California, where he was soon after attacked and slain, 
 along with twenty of his crew, by the savage natives.* 
 
 The survivors, however, brought the vessel back to 
 Chiametta, with the tempting report that the coast abounded 
 in perils. Cortes now set out himself with a squadron of 
 three ships; and, although his vessels were dreadfully 
 shattered in a storm, pursued his voyage with his accus- 
 tomed energy, till compelled to return by a summons from 
 Mexico, where the breaking out of serious disturbances 
 required his immediate presence. He intrusted, however, 
 the prosecution of the voyage to Francisco de Ulloa, and 
 this enterprising navigator, though at first obliged by want 
 of provisions to return to Mexico, re-victualled his ships, 
 and again set sail. The pious solemnity with which these 
 ancient mariners were accustomed to regard their proceed- 
 ings, is strikingly shown by the first sentence of his journal: 
 — "We embarked," says he, "in the haven of Acapulco, 
 on the 8th of July, in the year of our Lord 1539, calling 
 upon Almighty God to guide us with his holy hand to those 
 places where he might be served, and his holy faith ad- 
 
 * ITakluyt, vol. iii. p. 364; and Bamusio, Viaggi, vol. iii. p. 355 
 
1539.] ulloa. 49 
 
 vanced ; and we sailed from the said port by the coast of 
 Sacatula and Motin, which is sweet and pleasant, owing to 
 the abundance of trees that grow there, and the rivers which 
 pass through these countries, for which we often thanked 
 God, their Creator." * A voyage of twenty days brought 
 the squadron to the harbour of Colima, from which they set 
 out on the 23d of August; and after encountering a tempest, 
 in which their ships were severely shattered, they stood 
 across the Gulf of California, and came to the mouth of the 
 River St. Peter and St. Paul. On both sides of it were rich 
 and extensive plains, covered with beautiful trees in full 
 leaf; and farther within the land exceeding high mountains, 
 clothed with wood, and affording a charming prospect; 
 after which, in a course of fifteen leagues, they discovered 
 two other rivers as great, or greater than the Guadalquiver, 
 the currents of which were so strong that they might be 
 discerned three leagues off at sea. 
 
 Ulloa spent a year in examining the coasts and havens 
 on each side of the Gulf of California. In some places the 
 Spaniards found the inhabitants of great stature,-)- armed 
 with bows and arrows, speaking a language totally distinct 
 from anything they had hitherto heard in America, and 
 admirably dexterous in diving and swimming. On one 
 occasion the crews, who had landed, were attacked with 
 fierceness by two squadrons of Indians. These natives were 
 as swift as wild-goats, exceedingly strong and active, and 
 leaped from rock to rock, assaulting the Spaniards with 
 their arrows and javelins, which broke and pierced their 
 armour, and inflicted grievous wounds. It is well known 
 that this nation had introduced the savage practice of em- 
 ploying bloodhounds in their wars against the Mexicans, 
 and Ulloa now used some of these ferocious animals. The 
 
 * Eamusio, vol. iii. p. 339. Murray's North America, vol. ii. p. 68. 
 f Eamusio, vol. iii. p. 342. 
 D 
 
50 ULLOA. [1540. 
 
 Indians, however, discharged a shower of arrows against 
 them, " by which," says Ulloa, " Berecillo, our mastiff, who 
 should have assisted us, was grievously wounded by three 
 arrows, so that we could by no entreaty get him to leave 
 us ; the dog was struck in the first assault of the Indians, 
 after he had behaved himself very gallantly, and greatly 
 aided us, having set upon them and put eight or ten of them 
 out of array. But the other mastiffs did us more harm than 
 good, for when they attacked the Indians, they shot at them 
 with their bows, and we received hurt and trouble in defend- 
 ing them."* 
 
 From this unfriendly coast the Spanish discoverer pro- 
 ceeded to the Baya del Abad, about a hundred leagues dis- 
 tant from the point of California, where he found a more 
 pacific people, who, though they exhibited great symptoms 
 of suspicion, were prevailed upon to traffic, exchanging 
 pearls and parrots' feathers for the beads and trinkets of the 
 strangers. So little, however, were they to be trusted, that 
 they afterwards assaulted the ships' crews, compelling them 
 to retreat to their vessels and pursue their voyage. They 
 now discovered, in 28° north latitude, a great island, which 
 they denominated the Isle of Cedars, taking possession of it 
 in the name of the Spanish monarch. It was inhabited by 
 a fierce race of Indians, powerful and well-made, and armed 
 with bows and arrows, besides javelins, and long staves 
 thicker than a man's wrist. With these they struck at the 
 sailors, braving them with signs and rude gestures, till at 
 last it was found necessary to let loose the tAvo mastiffs, 
 Berecillo and Achillo ; upon which they suddenly took to 
 flight, flying over the rough ground with the speed of wild 
 horses. -f- Beyond this island the Spaniards attempted to 
 continue their discoveries along the coast of California ; but 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 409. Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 345. 
 f Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 351. Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 419. 
 
1540.] ULLOA. 1 
 
 a tempest having driven them back and damaged their 
 vessels, they determined to return to New Spain. In their 
 homeward voyage they were in danger from a new and 
 extraordinary enemy ; for, when sailing in the main ocean 
 at a rapid rate, above five hundred whales, in separate 
 shoals, came athwart them within one hour's space. Their 
 monstrous size created great astonishment, some of them 
 approaching so near the ship, as to swim under the keel 
 from one side to the other, " whereupon," says Francis 
 Preciado, who wrote the relation of the voyage, " we were 
 in great fear lest they should do us some hurt ; but they 
 could not, because the ship had a prosperous and good wind, 
 and made much way, so that it received no harm although 
 they touched and struck her."* 
 
 In this voyage, which for the first time made the world 
 acquainted with the Gulf of California, or Sea of Cortes, 
 Ulloa had not been able to spend sufficient time either in a 
 survey of the coast, or in establishing an intercourse with 
 the natives. But not long after his return, Mendoza, the 
 viceroy of New Spain, despatched Friar Marco de Nica, 
 upon an expedition of discovery from Culeacan, at that time 
 the most northerly Spanish settlement, to a province called 
 Topira, situated in the mountains. The account brought 
 back of the riches and extent of the country, proved so 
 tempting to the ambition of the Spaniards, that soon after 
 Vasquez de Coronado, an officer of great courage and expe- 
 rience, was appointed by Mendoza to the command of a 
 large force, for the reduction of the new territory, whilst, to 
 co-operate with this land expedition, a naval armament was 
 fitted out, of which Ferdinand de Alarchon was appointed 
 admiral, with orders to explore the Gulf of California. As 
 far as conquest was intended, these mighty preparations 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. Hi. p. 424. 
 
52 ALARCHON. [1542. 
 
 conducted to no permanent results ; but the voyage of Alar- 
 chon led to some important discoveries. 
 
 After a survey of the lower part of the coast of the gulf, 
 he penetrated with much difficulty and hazard to the bottom 
 of the bay, where he found a mighty river, flowing with so 
 furious a current, that they could hardly sail against it.* 
 This was evidently the noble river now known by the name 
 of the Colorado, which has its rise in the great mountain- 
 range near the sources of the Rio Bravo del Norte, and 
 after a course of nine hundred miles falls into the head of 
 the Gulf of California. Alarchon determined to explore it ; 
 and taking with him two boats, with twenty men and some 
 small pieces of artillery, he ascended to an Indian village, 
 the inhabitants of which, by violent and furious gestures, 
 dissuaded the Spaniards from landing. The party of natives, 
 at first small, soon increased to a body of two hundred and 
 fifty, drawn up in warlike fashion, with bows and arrows, 
 and displayed banners. The Spanish admiral appeased 
 them by signs, throwing his sword and target into the 
 bottom of the boat, and placing his feet upon them. "They 
 began," says he, in his letter to the viceroy Mendoza, " to 
 make a great murmuring among themselves, when suddenly 
 one came out from among them with a staff, upon which he 
 had fixed some small shells, and entered into the water to 
 give them to me. I took them, and made signs to him that 
 he should approach. On his doing so I embraced him, 
 giving him in exchange some trinkets, and he returning to 
 his fellows, they began to look upon them and to parley 
 together ; and within a while many of them cheerfully ap- 
 proached, to whom I made signs that they should lay down 
 their banners and leave their weapons; which they did 
 immediately." Alarchon gives a minute description of the 
 
 * Eamusio, Viaggi, vol. iii. p. 363. 
 
1542.] ALARCIION. 53 
 
 dress, weapons, and appearance of these Indians. They 
 were decked after sundry fashions : the faces of some were 
 covered with tattooed marks, extending lengthwise from the 
 forehead to the chin ; others had only half the face thus 
 ornamented ; but all were besmeared with coal, and every 
 one as it liked him best. Others carried vizards before 
 them, which had the shape of faces.* They wore on their 
 heads a piece of deerskin two spans broad, like a helmet, 
 ornamented by various sorts of feathers stuck upon small 
 sticks. Their weapons were bows and arrows, and two or 
 three kinds of maces of wood hardened in the fire. Their 
 features were handsome and regular, but disfigured by holes 
 bored through the nostrils, and in many parts of the ears, 
 on which were hung pendants, shells, and bones. About 
 their loins was a girdle of divers colours, with a large bunch 
 of feathers in the middle, which hung down like a tail. 
 They cut their hair short before, but allowed it behind to 
 grow down to their waist. Their bodies were tattooed with 
 coals, and the women wore round their waist a great wreath 
 of painted feathers, glued together, and hanging down both 
 before and behind. f 
 
 Having procured by signs a pacific reception from this 
 new people, Alarchon found to his mortification that they 
 did not understand his interpreter ; but after a little inter- 
 course, observing that they worshipped the sun, he un- 
 scrupulously intimated to them by significant gestures, that 
 he came from that luminary; "upon which they marvelled," 
 says he, " and began to survey me from top to toe, and 
 showed me more favour than they did before." Soon after 
 this a man was found among them who could speak the 
 language of the interpreter ; and an intercourse of a very 
 
 , %- 
 
 * Such is the translation of Hakluyt ; but the passage in the original 
 is obscure. 
 
 f Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 364. 
 
54 ALAKCHON. [1542. 
 
 extraordinary nature took place, in which the honesty and 
 simplicity of the Indians are strikingly contrasted with the 
 false and unprincipled policy of the Spaniards. The passage 
 is uncommonly graphic and interesting : " The Indian first 
 desired to know what nation we were, and whence we came ? 
 "Whether we came out of the water, or inhabited the earth, 
 or had fallen from the heaven?" To this the admiral re- 
 plied, that they were Christians, and came from far to see 
 them, being sent by the sun, to which he pointed. " After 
 this introduction, the Indian," continues Alarchon in his 
 account of the voyage, " began again to ask me how the 
 sun had sent me, seeing he went aloft in the sky and never 
 stood still, and for these many years neither they nor their 
 oldest men had ever seen such as we were, and the sun till 
 that hour had never sent any other. I answered him, it 
 was true the sun pursued his course aloft in the sky, and 
 never stood still, but nevertheless they might perceive that 
 at his setting and rising he came near the earth, where his 
 dwelling was, and that they always saw him come out of 
 one place ; and he had created me in that land whence he 
 came, in the same way that he had made many others whom 
 he sent into other parts ; and now he had desired me to 
 visit this same river, and the people who dwelt near it, that 
 I might speak with them, and become their friend, and give 
 them such things as they needed, and charge them not to 
 make war against each other. On this he required me to 
 tell them the cause why the sun had not sent me sooner to 
 pacify the wars which had continued a long time among 
 them, and wherein many had been slain. I told him the 
 reason was, that I was then but a child. He next inquired 
 why Ave brought only one interpreter with us who compre- 
 hended our language, and wherefore we understood not all 
 other men, seeing we were children of the sun? To which 
 our interpreter answered, that the sun had also begotten 
 
1542.] ALARCHON. 55 
 
 him, and given him a language to understand him, his 
 master the admiral, and others; the sun knew well that they 
 dwelt there, but because that great light had many other 
 businesses, and because his master was but young, he sent 
 him no sooner. The Indian interpreter," continues Alar- 
 chon, " then turning to me, said suddenly, ' Comest thou, 
 therefore, to be our lord, and that we should serve thee ?' 
 To which I answered, I came not to be their lord, but 
 rather their brother, and to give them such things as I had. 
 He then inquired whether I was the sun's kinsman, or his 
 child ? To which I replied I was his son, but those who 
 were with me, though all born in one country, were not his 
 children ; upon which he raised his voice loudly and said, 
 ' Seeing thou doest us so much good, and dost not wish us 
 to make war, and art the child of the sun, we will all re- 
 ceive thee for our lord, and always serve thee ; therefore we 
 pray thee not to depart hence and leave us.' After which he 
 suddenly turned to the people, and began to tell them that 
 I was the child of the sun, and therefore they should all 
 choose me for their lord."* The Indians appeared to be 
 well pleased with this proposal, and assisted the Spaniards 
 in their ascent of the river to the distance of eighty-five 
 leagues ; but finding it impossible to open a communication 
 with the army under Coronado, Alarchon put about his 
 ships, and returned to Mexico.-j- 
 
 After the expeditions of Coronado and Alarchon in 1542, 
 the spirit of enterprise amongst the Spaniards experienced 
 some check, owing probably to the feeling of mortification 
 and disappointment which accompanied the return of these 
 officers. Yet Mendoza, unwilling wholly to renounce the 
 high hopes he had entertained, despatched a small squadron 
 under Rodriguez Cabrillo, which traced the yet undiscovered 
 
 * Hakluyt, vol. iii. t). 429. Kamusio, vol. iii. p. 356. 
 f Hakluyt, vol. iii. pp. 438, 439. 
 
56 DE FUCA. [1602. 
 
 coast of North America some degrees beyond Cape Mendo- 
 cino; and in 1596 and 1602, Sebastian Viscaino extended 
 these discoveries along the coast of New Albion to a river 
 which appears to have been the present Columbia. It has 
 even been asserted by some authors, that, four years prior 
 to the voyage of Viscaino, Juan de Fuca, a veteran Spanish 
 pilot, conducted a ship beyond the mouth of the Columbia, 
 and doubling Cape Flattery, entered the Straits of Georgia, 
 through which he passed till he came to Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound. De Fuca imagined, not unnaturally, considering 
 the imperfect and limited state of geographical knowledge, 
 that he had now sailed through the famous and fabulous 
 Strait of Anian; and that, instead of being in the Pacific, 
 as he then actually was, he had conducted his vessel into 
 the spacious expanse of the Atlantic. With this informa- 
 tion he returned to Acapulco; but the Spanish viceroy 
 received him coldly, and withheld all encouragement or 
 reward — a circumstance to which we may perhaps ascribe 
 the cessation from this period of all farther attempts at 
 discovery by this nation upon the north-west coast of Ame- 
 rica. The whole voyage of De Fuca, however, rests on 
 apocryphal authority. 
 
 CHAPTEK II. 
 
 Russian and English Voyages. 
 
 Behring — Tchirikow — Cook — and Clerke — Meares — Vancouver — 
 Kotzebue. 
 
 As the zeal oi the Spanish Government in extending their 
 discoveries upon the north-west coast of America abated, 
 another great nation, hitherto scarcely known to Europe, 
 
1717.] PETER THE GREAT. 57 
 
 undertook at a later period the task which they had aban- 
 doned. Russia, within little more than half a century, had 
 grown up from a collection of savage, undisciplined, and 
 unconnected tribes, into a mighty people. Her conquests 
 had spread with amazing rapidity till they embraced the 
 whole of the north of Asia, and under the energetic admin- 
 istration of Peter the Great, this empire assumed at once 
 that commanding influence in the scale of European nations 
 which it has continued to preserve till the present times. 
 Amongst the many great projects of this remarkable man, 
 the solution of the question, whether Asia, on the north- 
 east, was united with America, occupied a prominent place; 
 and it appears that during his residence in Holland in 1717, 
 he had been solicited by some of the most eminent patrons 
 of discovery amongst the Dutch to institute an expedition 
 to investigate the subject. The resolution he then formed, 
 to set this great point at rest by a voyage of discovery, 
 was never abandoned; but his occupation in war, and the 
 multiplicity of those state affairs which engrossed his atten- 
 tion, caused him to delay its execution from year to year, 
 till he was seized with his last illness. Upon his death- 
 bed he wrote, with his own hand, instructions to Admiral 
 Apraxin, and an order to have them carried into immediate 
 execution. They directed, first, that one or two boats with 
 decks should be built at Kamtschatka, or at any other con- 
 venient place; secondly, that with these a survey should 
 be made of the most northerly coasts of his Asiatic empire, 
 to determine whether they were or were not contiguous to 
 America; and, thirdly, that the persons to whom the expe- 
 dition was entrusted should endeavour to ascertain whether 
 on these coasts there was any port belonging to Europeans, 
 and keep a strict look-out for any European ship, taking 
 care also to employ some skilful men in making inquiries 
 regarding the name and situation of the coasts which they 
 
58 BEHRING AND TCHIRIKOW. [17z5. 
 
 discovered — of all which they were to keep an exact jour- 
 nal, and transmit it to St. Petersburg. 
 
 Upon the death of Peter the Great, which happened 
 shortly after these instructions were drawn up, the Empress 
 Catherine entered fully into his views, and gave orders to 
 fit out an expedition for their accomplishment. The com- 
 mand was intrusted to Captain Vitus Behring. Under his 
 orders were two lieutenants, Martin Spangberg and Alexi 
 Tchirikow; and, besides other subaltern officers, they en- 
 gaged several excellent ship-carpenters. On the 5th of 
 February 1725 they set out from St. Petersburg, and on 
 the 16th March arrived at Tobolsk, the capital of Siberia. 
 After a survey of the rivers Irtisch, Ob, Ket, Jenesei, Tun- 
 gusca, and Ilim, they wintered at Him, and, in the spring of 
 1726, proceeded down the river Lena to Jakutzk. The 
 naval stores and part of the provisions were now intrusted 
 to Lieutenant Spangberg, who embarked on the Juduma, 
 intending to sail from it into the Maia, and then by the 
 Aldan into the Lena. He was followed by Captain Behring, 
 who proceeded by land with another part of the stores, whilst 
 Lieutenant Tchirikow stayed at Jakutzk, with the design 
 of transporting the remainder overland. The cause of this 
 complicated division of labour was the impassable nature 
 of the country between Jakutzk and Ochotzk, which is 
 impracticable for waggons in summer, or for sledges during 
 winter. Such, indeed, were the difficulties of transporting 
 these large bales of provisions, that it was the 30th July 
 1727 before the whole business was completed. In the 
 meantime a vessel had been built at Ochotzk, in which the 
 naval stores were conveyed to Bolscheretzkoi in Kamts- 
 chatka. From this they proceeded to Nischnei Kamts- 
 chatkoi Ostrog, where a boat was built similar to the 
 packet-boats used in the Baltic. After the necessary 
 articles were shipped, Captain Behring, determining no 
 
1727.] behring's first voyage. 59 
 
 longer to delay the most important part of his enterprise, 
 set sail from the mouth of the River Kamtschatka on the 
 14th of July, steering north-east, and for the first time 
 laying down a survey of this remote and desolate coast. 
 When they reached the latitude of 64° 30', eight men of 
 the wild tribe of the Tschuktschi pushed off from the coast 
 in a leathern canoe, called a baidar, formed of seal- skins, 
 and fearlessly approached the Russian ship. A communi- 
 cation was immediately opened by means of a Koriak in- 
 terpreter; and, on being invited, they came on board with- 
 out hesitation. By these natives Behring was informed 
 that the coast turned towards the west. On reaching the 
 promontory called Serdze Kamen, the accuracy of this 
 information was established, for the land was seen extend- 
 ing a great way in a western direction — a circumstance 
 from which Behring somewhat too hastily concluded, that 
 he had reached the extremest northern point of Asia. 
 He was of opinion that thence the coast must run to the 
 west, and therefore no junction with America could take 
 place. Satisfied that he had now fulfilled his orders, he 
 returned to the River Kamtschatka, and again took up his 
 winter- quarters at Nischnei Kamtschatkoi Ostrog.* 
 
 In this voyage it was conjectured by Behring and his 
 officers, from the reports of the Kamtschadales, that in all 
 probability another country must be situated towards the 
 east, at no great distance from Serdze Kamen; yet no im- 
 mediate steps were taken either to complete the survey of 
 the most northerly coasts of Ochozkoi, or to explore the 
 undiscovered region immediately opposite the promontory. 
 In the course of a campaign, however, against the fierce 
 and independent nation of the Tschuktschi, Captain Paw- 
 lutzki penetrated by the Rivers Nboina, Bela, and Tcherna, 
 
 * Harris's Collection of Voyages, vol. ii. pp. 1020, 1021; Coxe's 
 Russian Discoveries, pp. 23, 24, 94. 
 
60 PAWLUTZKl's EXPEDITION. [1741. 
 
 to the borders of the Frozen Sea; and, after defeating the 
 enemy in three battles, passed in triumph to a promontory 
 supposed to be the Tgchukotzkoi Noss. From this point 
 he sent part of his little army in canoes, whilst he himself 
 conducted the remaining division by land round the pro- 
 montory, taking care to march along the sea-coast, and to 
 communicate every evening with his canoes. In this man- 
 ner Pawlutzki reached the promontory which is conjectured 
 to have been the farthest limit of Behring' s voyage, and 
 thence by an inland route returned, on 21st October 1730, 
 to Anadirsk, having advanced an important step in ascer- 
 taining the separation between America and the remote 
 north-westerly coast of Asia. 
 
 Although the separation of the two continents had been 
 thus far fixed, a wide field of discovery yet remained unex- 
 plored; and in 1741, Behring, Spangberg, and Tchirikow, 
 once more volunteered their services for this purpose. 
 These offers were immediately accepted; the captain was 
 promoted to the rank of a commander, the two lieutenants 
 were made captains, and instructions drawn up for the con- 
 duct of the expedition, in which it was directed that the 
 destination of the voyages should be eastward to the con- 
 tinent of America, and southward to Japan, whilst, at the 
 same time, an endeavour was to be made for the discovery 
 of that northern passage through the Frozen Sea which 
 had been so repeatedly but unsuccessfully attempted by 
 other European nations. The voyage to Japan, under the 
 command of Captain Spangberg and Lieutenant Walton, 
 was eminently successful; and one of its material results 
 was the correction of a geographical error of considerable 
 magnitude, by which that island had hitherto been placed 
 under the same meridian as Kamtschatka instead of 11° 
 more to the westward. The expedition of Behring, no less 
 important and satisfactory, was destined to be fatal to its 
 
1741.] beiiring's second voyage. 61 
 
 excellent commander. After a winter spent in the harbour 
 of Awatscha, or Petropalauska, on the west side of the great 
 peninsula of Kamtschatka, Behring got his stores on board 
 the two packet-boats built at Ochotzk, expressly for the 
 intended American discoveries. The first of these, the St. 
 Peter, was that in which the commander embarked; the 
 second, the St. Paul, was intrusted to Captain Tchirikow. 
 Along with Behring went Lewis de Lisle de la Croyere, 
 Professor of Astronomy, whilst Mr. George William Stel- 
 ler, an experienced chemist and botanist, accompanied 
 Tchirikow. 
 
 All things being ready, a council of officers was held, in 
 which the question regarding the course they should steer 
 was considered, and it happened, unfortunately for the ex- 
 pedition, that an important error had crept into the map 
 presented by the Academy of Sciences at St. Petersburg 
 to the Senate, in laying down a coast south-east from 
 Awatscha, extending fifteen degrees from west to east, 
 whilst no land was marked due east. At this spot were 
 written on the map the words " Land seen by Don Jean 
 de Gama;" and, trusting to the accuracy of this information, 
 it was determined to steer first south-east by east, in the 
 hope of discovering this continent; after which they might 
 follow its coasts as a guide towards the north and east. 
 On the 4th of June 1741 they accordingly weighed anchor, 
 and steered south-east by south, till, on the 12th, they found 
 themselves in latitude 46°, without the slightest appearance 
 of the coast of De Gama. Convinced at last of their error, 
 they held on a northerly course as far as 50° north latitude, 
 and were just about to steer due east, with the hope of 
 reaching the continent of America, when the two ships 
 were separated in a violent storm accompanied by a thick 
 fog. Behring exerted every effort to rejoin his consort; 
 but all proved in vain. He cruised for three days between 
 
62 BEHRING AND TCHIRIKOW: [1741. 
 
 50° and 51° north latitude, after which he steered back to 
 the south-east as far as 45° ; but Tchirikow, after the storm, 
 had taken an easterly course from 48° north latitude, so 
 that they never met again. 
 
 Both, however, pursued their discoveries simultaneously, 
 and on the 15th of July, being in 56° north latitude, Tchiri- 
 kow reached the coast of America. The shore proved to 
 be steep and rocky, and in consequence of the high surf, 
 he did not venture to approach it; but anchoring in deep 
 water, despatched his mate, Demetiew, with the long-boat 
 and ten men, on shore. The boat was provisioned for some 
 days, the men armed and furnished with minute instruc- 
 tions as to their mode of proceeding, and the signals by 
 which they were to communicate with the ship. But nei- 
 ther mate, men, nor barge, were ever again heard of. This 
 was the more mysterious, as all at first appeared to go well 
 with them. The barge was seen from the ship to row into 
 a bay behind a small cape, and the appointed signals were 
 made, intimating that she had landed in safety. Day after 
 day the signals agreed on continued from the shore. The 
 people on board began at last to think that the barge had 
 probably received damage in landing, and could not re- 
 turn till she was repaired; and it was resolved to send the 
 small boat on shore, with the boatswain Sawelow and six 
 men. Amongst these were some carpenters and a careener, 
 well armed and provided with the necessary materials; 
 and the boatswain had orders to return with Demetiew in 
 the long-boat the moment the necessary repairs were com- 
 pleted. But neither mate nor boatswain ever came back; 
 and the most dark surmises of their fate were excited by 
 the cessation of the signals, and the continual ascent of a 
 large volume of smoke from the landing-place. Next day, 
 however, a revival of hope was felt at the sight of tw* 
 boats which were observed rowing from the land towards 
 
1741.] THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 63 
 
 the ship. It was believed to be Demetiew and Sawelow; 
 and Tchirikow ordered all hands on deck, to prepare for 
 setting sail on a moment's warning. A few minutes 
 changed these cheerful anticipations into sorrow; for, as 
 the boats approached, it was discovered that they were 
 filled by American savages, who, seeing many persons 
 on deck, instantly shipped their paddles and remained at a 
 cautious distance. They then stood up, and crying with a 
 loud voice " Agai, agai!" returned with great speed to the 
 shore. A strong west wind now rose, and threatened to 
 dash the vessel on the rocky coast, so that they were obliged 
 to weigh anchor and put to sea without the slightest hope 
 of hearing any farther intelligence of their men ; for they 
 had no more small boats, and all communication with the 
 shore was cut off. Tchirikow, however, cruised some days 
 in the neighbourhood, and when the weather became milder, 
 returned towards the spot where his people landed ; but all 
 appeared silent, lonely, and uninhabited ; and in a council 
 of the officers, it was determined to set out on their return, 
 though with the most poignant regret at being obliged to 
 leave this remote and desolate coast without hearing the 
 slightest account of their companions. They arrived at 
 Kamtschatka on the 27th of July.* No news of the fate 
 of Demetiew and Sawelow ever reached Russia ; but it is 
 evident that they had been successively attacked and mur- 
 dered by the savages. "The natives of this part of the 
 north-west coast of America," says Captain Burney, "live 
 principally by hunting and catching game, in which occu- 
 pations they are in the continual practice of every species 
 of decoy. They imitate the whistlings of birds, — they 
 have carved wooden masks resembling the heads of animals, 
 which they put on over their own, and enter the woods in 
 
 * Muller, Decouvertes faites par les Busses, vol. i. p. 244. 
 
64 BEHRING AND TCHIRIKOW : [1741. 
 
 masquerade. They had observed the signals made to the 
 ship by the Russian boat which first came to land ; and the 
 continuance of signals afterwards seen and heard by the 
 Russians onboard were doubtless American imitations."* 
 
 Exactly three days after Tchirikow descried land, it 
 appears that Commodore Behring also got sight of the 
 continent in 58° 28", or, according to another account 60° 
 north latitude. The prospect was magnificent and awful, 
 exhibiting high mountains covered from the summits with 
 snow. One of these, far inland, was particularly remarked: 
 It was plainly discernible sixteen German miles out at sea; 
 and Steller says in his journal, that in all Siberia he had 
 not met with a more lofty mountain.-]- The commodore, 
 being much in want of water, approached the coast with 
 the hope of being able to land. He accordingly reached 
 the shore on the 20th July, and anchored under a large 
 island not far from the continent. A point of land projecting 
 into the sea at this place they called St Elias. Cape, as it 
 was discovered on that saint's day; whilst another headland 
 was denominated St. Hermogenes ; and between these lay a 
 bay, in which, if it became necessary to take shelter, they 
 trusted they would find security. Two boats were now 
 launched, in the first of which, Kytrof, the master of the 
 fleet, was sent to examine the bay, whilst Steller proceeded 
 with the other to fetch water. Kytrof found a convenient 
 anchorage; and on an adjacent island were a few empty 
 huts formed of smooth boards, ornamented in some places 
 with rude carving. Within the huts they picked up a small 
 box of poplar, a hollow earthen ball in which a stone rattled, 
 conjectured to be a child's toy, and a whetstone, on which it 
 appeared that copper knives had been sharpened.:): Steller, 
 
 * Burney's History of North-eastern Voyages of Discovery, p. 180. 
 
 f Ibid. p. 164. 
 
 X Coxe's Russian Discoveries, pp. 42, 43. 
 
1741.] THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 65 
 
 on the other hand, near the spot where he landed, discovered 
 a cellar in which was a store of red salmon, and a sweet 
 herb dressed for food in the same manner as in Kamts- 
 chatka. Near them were ropes, and various pieces of 
 household furniture and of domestic utensils. At a short 
 distance he came to a place where the savages had recently 
 dined; beside which they found an arrow, and an instru- 
 ment for procuring fire exactly similar to that used for the 
 same purpose in Kamtschatka. The sailors who fetched 
 the fresh water had found two fire-places with the ashes 
 newly extinguished, and near them a parcel of hewn wood, 
 with some smoked fishes like large carp. They observed 
 also marks of human footsteps in the grass, but no natives 
 were seen. In case, however, they should return, some 
 small presents, such as it was conjectured might be suited 
 to their taste or their wants, were left in the huts. These 
 consisted of a piece of green glazed linen, two iron kettles, 
 two knives, two iron Chinese tobacco-pipes, a pound of 
 tobacco leaves, and twenty large glass beads. Steller, an 
 enthusiastic naturalist, entreated that he might have the 
 command of the small boat and a few men, to complete a 
 more accurate survey of this new coast ; but Behring, who 
 was from his advanced age rather timid and over- cautious, 
 put a decided negative upon the proposal ; and his scientific 
 companion, having climbed a steep rock to obtain a view 
 of the adjacent country, found his progress interrupted by 
 an immediate order to come aboard. " On descending the 
 mountain," says he in his journal, "which was overspread 
 with a forest without any traces of a road, finding it im- 
 passable, I reascended, looked mournfully at the limits of 
 my progress, turned my eyes towards the continent which 
 it was not in my power to explore, and observed at the 
 distance of a few versts some smoke ascending from a 
 wooded eminence. * * * Again receiving a posi- 
 
 £ 
 
66 BEHRING AND TCHIEIKOW : [1741. 
 
 tive order to join the ship, I returned with my collec- 
 tion."* 
 
 Having put to sea next day, the 21st of July, they 
 found it impossible, according to their original intention, to 
 explore the coast as far as 65° north latitude, as it seemed 
 to extend indefinitely to the south-west. It was studded 
 with many small islands, the navigation through which, 
 especially during the night, was dangerous and tedious. 
 On the 30th of July they discovered, in latitude 56°, an 
 island, which they called Tumannoi Ostrog, or Foggy 
 Island ; and soon after the scurvy broke out with the most 
 virulent symptoms in the ship's crew : so that, in hopes of 
 procuring water, they again ran to the north, and soon dis- 
 covered the continent, with a large group of islands near 
 the shore, between which they came to anchor. These 
 they called the Schumagins, after the name of one of their 
 men who died there. Whilst at this anchorage the weather 
 became boisterous, and some brackish water procured from 
 one of the largest islands increased the virulence of the dis- 
 ease, which prevailed to an alarming degree. All attempts 
 to put to sea proved for some days unsuccessful, owing to 
 the strong contrary winds ; and at length one morning they 
 were roused by a loud cry from one of the islands, upon 
 which they saw a fire burning. Soon after, two Americans 
 rowed towards the ship in their canoes, which in shape 
 resembled those of Greenland and Davis' Strait. They 
 stopped, however, at some distance, and it was discovered 
 that they not only understood the language of the Calumet, 
 or Pipe of Peace, employed by the North American Indians, 
 but had these symbolical instruments along with them. 
 They were sticks with hawks' wings attached to one end. 
 It was at first impossible to induce the natives to come on 
 
 * Coxe's Russian Discoveries, pp. 40, 41. 
 
1741.] THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 67 
 
 board ; and Behring, anxious to establish a communication, 
 and to become acquainted with the country, despatched 
 Lieutenant Waxel in the boat, with nine men well armed, 
 amongst whom was a Tschuktschian or Koriak interpreter. 
 It was found, however, that the savages were utterly igno- 
 rant of his language ; and Waxel having sent some men 
 on shore, who fastened the boat by a long rope passed 
 round a rock on the beach, commenced a friendly inter- 
 course by means of signs. The Americans were disposed 
 to be on the most amicable terms with their new acquaint- 
 ances, giving them whales' flesh, the only provision they 
 appeared to possess ; and at last one of them so far over- 
 came his fears as to join the Russian lieutenant in the boat, 
 which still lay a little way from the shore. Anxious to 
 conciliate his favour and treat him with distinction, Waxel 
 somewhat thoughtlessly presented him with a cup of brandy j 
 but the effect proved the reverse of what was expected. He 
 made the most ludicrous wry faces, spit violently out of his 
 mouth all that he had not swallowed, and cried aloud to his 
 companions on the shore, complaining of the treatment he 
 had experienced. " Our men," says Mr. Steller in his 
 journal, " thought the Americans had sailors' stomachs, and 
 endeavoured to remove his disgust by presenting him with 
 a lighted pipe of tobacco, which he accepted; but he was 
 equally disgusted with his attempt to smoke. The most 
 civilized European would be affected in the same manner if 
 presented with toad- stool, or rotten fish and willow bark, 
 which are delicacies with the Kamtschadales." It was evi- 
 dent he had never tasted ardent spirits or smoked tobacco 
 till this moment ; and although every effort was made to 
 soothe him and restore his confidence, by offering him needles, 
 glass beads, an iron kettle, and other gifts, he would accept 
 of nothing, and made the most eager and imploring signs 
 to be set on shore. In this it was judged right to gratify 
 
68 BEHRING A.ND TCHIRIKOW : [1741. 
 
 him, and Waxel, at the same time, called out to the sailors 
 who were on the beach to come back; the Americans made 
 a violent attempt to detain them, but two blunderbusses 
 were fired over their heads, and had the effect of making 
 them fall flat on the ground, whilst the Russians escaped 
 and rejoined their companions. 
 
 This adventure gave them an opportunity of examining 
 this new people, now for the first time visited by Europeans. 
 " The islanders were of moderate stature, but tolerably well 
 proportioned ; their arms and legs very fleshy. Their hair 
 was straight, and of a glossy blackness ; their faces brown 
 and flat, but neither broad nor large; their eyes were 
 black, and their lips thick and turned upwards ; their necks 
 were short, their shoulders broad, and their bodies thick, 
 but not corpulent. Their upper garment was made of 
 whales' intestines, their breeches of seals' skins, and their 
 caps formed out of the hide of sea-lions, adorned with 
 feathers of various birds, especially the hawk. Their nos- 
 trils were stopped with grass, and their noses as flat as 
 Calmucks' ; their faces painted, some with red, others with 
 different colours ; and some of them, instead of caps, wore 
 hats of bark, coloured green and red, open at the top, and 
 shaped like candle- screens, apparently for protecting the 
 eyes against the rays of the sun. These hats might lead 
 us to suppose that the natives of this part of America are 
 of Asiatic descent; for the Kamtschadales and Koriaks 
 wear the like, of which several specimens may be seen in 
 the Museum at St. Petersburg."* 
 
 At this time, Behring being confined by severe sickness, 
 the chief command fell on Waxel, who was preparing to 
 sail, when seven Americans came in their boats to the 
 ship's side, and two of them, catching hold of the entrance- 
 
 * Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. 63. 
 
1741.] THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 69 
 
 ladder, presented their bonnets, and a carved image of bone, 
 bearing some resemblance to a human figure. They like- 
 wise held up the calumet, and would have come aboard, but 
 the sailors were taking up the anchor, and the breeze fresh- 
 ening, they were under the necessity of making towards the 
 shore as quickly as possible. There was time, however, to 
 give a few presents, and as the ship passed by the point 
 where they stood, she was saluted with loud and friendly 
 shouts.* 
 
 They had now to struggle against a tedious continuance 
 of westerly winds, accompanied with thick fogs, which ren- 
 dered the navigation in these unknown seas perilous in the 
 extreme. On the 24th of September the mist cleared away, 
 and disclosed a high and desolate coast, which a strong 
 south wind made it dangerous to approach. The majority 
 of the crew were by this time disabled by the scurvy, and 
 the rest so weak, that to manage the vessel during the 
 tempestuous weather was almost impossible. A violent 
 gale soon after began to blow from the west, which gradu- 
 ally increased, and drove the ship far to the south-east. 
 The storm continued for seventeen days — a fact to which 
 there are few parallels in the history of shipwrecks j and 
 the pilot, Andrew Hesselberg, who had served for fifty 
 years in several parts of the world, declared he had never 
 witnessed so long and terrible a gale. Meanwhile they 
 carried as little sail as possible, and were driven for a fort- 
 night at the mercy of the wind, under a sky as black as 
 midnight, so that all the time they saw neither sun nor 
 stars. When the storm abated, they found themselves, by 
 the ship's reckoning, in 48° 18" north latitude. Steller, 
 in his journal, draws a striking picture of their extreme 
 misery : — " The general distress and mortality," says he, 
 
 * Burney's North-Eastern Voyages of Discovery, p. 170. 
 
70 BEHRING AND TCHIRIKOW : [1741. 
 
 " increased so fast, that not only the sick died, but those 
 who still struggled to be numbered on the healthy list, 
 when relieved from their posts, fainted and fell down dead, 
 of which the scantiness of water, the want of biscuits and 
 brandy, cold, wet, nakedness, vermin, fear, and terror, 
 were not the least causes."* In these circumstances, it be- 
 came difficult to determine whether they should return to 
 Kamtschatka or seek a harbour on the nearest American 
 coast. At last, in a council of officers, they embraced the 
 first of these alternatives, and again sailed north, after 
 which they steered towards the west. 
 
 On the 29th of October they approached two islands re- 
 sembling the two first of the Kurilian group. The long- 
 wished-for coast of Kamtschatka, however, did not appear, 
 and the condition of the vessel and crew began to be 
 deplorable. The men, notwithstanding their diseased 
 state and want of proper food, were obliged to work in the 
 cold ; and as the continual rains had now changed into hail 
 and snow, and the nights shortened and grew darker, their 
 sufferings were extreme. The commodore himself had 
 been for some time totally disabled by disease from taking 
 an active command, his wonted energy and strength of 
 mind left him, and he became childishly suspicious and 
 indolent. Amongst the seamen the sickness was so dread- 
 ful, that the two sailors whose berth used to be at the 
 rudder, were led to it by others, who themselves could 
 walk with difficulty. When one could steer no longer, 
 another equally feeble was supported to his place. Many 
 sails they durst not hoist, because no one was strong 
 enough to lower them in case of need, whilst some of the 
 sheets were so thin and rotten, that a violent wind would 
 have torn them to pieces. The rest of this interesting but 
 
 * Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. 65. 
 
1741.] THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 71 
 
 deeply affecting voyage may be given in the excellent 
 abstract of Captain Burney : — " On November 4th, at eight 
 in the morning, they once more saw land; but only the 
 tops of the mountains at first appeared, and the shore was 
 so distant, that although they stood towards it the whole 
 day, night came on before they could get near enough to 
 look for anchorage. At noon that day they made their 
 latitude by observation to be 56° north. On the morning 
 of the 5th, it was discovered that almost all the shrouds on 
 the starboard side of the ship were broken, which happened 
 from contraction and tenseness caused by the frost; for, 
 without other mention made of the weather, it is com- 
 plained that the cold was insupportable. In this distress, 
 the commodore ordered the lieutenant to call all the 
 officers together, to consult on their best mode of pro- 
 ceeding; and the increased numbers of the sick, with the 
 want of fresh water, determined them at all hazards to 
 seek relief at this land. The wind was northerly, and 
 they had soundings at the depth of thirty- seven fathoms, 
 with a sandy bottom. They now steered in towards the 
 land, west- south-west and south-west, and two hours after, 
 at five in the evening, they anchored in twelve fathoms, the 
 bottom sand, and veered out three-quarters of a cable. The 
 sea now began to run high, and at six the cable gave way. 
 Another anchor was let go, yet the ship struck twice, 
 though they found by the lead five fathoms depth of water. 
 The cable quickly parted; and it was fortunate a third 
 anchor was not ready, for whilst they were preparing it, a 
 high wave threw the ship over a bank of rocks, where all at 
 once she was in still water. They now dropt their anchor in 
 four fathoms and a half, about six hundred yards from the 
 land, and lay quiet during the rest of the night; but in the 
 morning they found themselves surrounded with rocks and 
 breakers. They were certain that the coast of Kamts- 
 
72 BEHRING AND TCHIRIKOW : ("1741. 
 
 chatka was not far distant; but the condition of the ship 
 and the crew, with the advanced season of the year, ren- 
 dered it apparent that they must remain upon this land all 
 winter. Those who were able to work went on shore to 
 prepare lodgings for the sick. This they accomplished by 
 digging pits or caverns between some sand-hills near a 
 brook which ran from a mountain to the sea, using their 
 sails as a temporary covering. There was no appearance 
 of inhabitants ; nor were any trees seen, although drift- 
 wood was found along the shore. No grass nor anti- scor- 
 butic herbs were discoverable; the island, indeed, was so 
 deeply covered with snow, that even if it produced any 
 antiseptic plants, the patients had not strength to lay them 
 open; and at this time the Russians were little acquainted 
 with the proper remedies for this dreadful disease. On the 
 8th of November they began to transport the sick to the 
 miserable habitations which had been prepared for them ; 
 and it was remarkable that some who seemed the least re- 
 duced expired the moment they were exposed to the fresh 
 air, and others in making an attempt to stand upon deck."* 
 On the 9th of November, Behring himself was carried 
 ashore by four men on a hand-barrow, carefully secured 
 from the air. The ship had been cast on the east side of 
 the island, and the coast was examined both to the north 
 and south ; but no traces of inhabitants were found. Along 
 the shores were many sea- otters, and the interior swarmed 
 with blue and white foxes. " We saw," says Steller in his 
 
 * " It must," says Captain Burney, " be within the memory of many, 
 the great care with which the apartments of the sick were guarded 
 against the admission of fresh air, and in few instances more than in what 
 was called the sick-berth on board a ship of war, where it was customary 
 to keep a number of diseased persons labouring under different maladies 
 enclosed and crowded together ; and fortunately, since the date of this 
 expedition, the management of the sick with respect to air has undergone 
 a very essential reform." 
 
1741.] THEIR SECOND VOYAGE. 73 
 
 journal, "the most dismal and terrifying objects: the 
 foxes mangled the dead before they could be buried, and 
 were even not afraid to approach the living and helpless 
 who lay scattered here and there, and smell at them like 
 dogs. This man exclaimed that he was perishing of cold; 
 the other complained of hunger and thirst; and their 
 mouths were so much affected by scurvy, that their gums 
 grew over their teeth like a sponge. The stone-foxes, 
 which swarmed round our dwellings, became so bold and 
 mischievous, that they carried away and destroyed different 
 articles of provision and clothing. One took a shoe, another 
 a boot, a third a glove, a fourth a coat; and they even stole 
 the iron implements; whilst all attempts to drive them 
 away were ineffectual."* 
 
 Lieutenant Waxel, on whom, since the illness of the 
 commodore, the command devolved, and Kytrow, the ship- 
 master, continued healthy at sea; and the necessity for exer- 
 tion, in seeing everything sent on shore, had a favourable 
 effect in repelling the attacks of the disease. At last, how- 
 ever, they too were laid up, and soon became so weak, that 
 on the 21st of November they were carried ashore like the 
 rest. During this dreadful residence on the island, the 
 men lived chiefly on the flesh of the sea-otters, which was 
 so hard and tough that it could scarcely be torn to pieces 
 by the teeth. The intestines were mostly used for the sick ; 
 and Steller, in his descriptions of the marine animals of 
 these regions, reckons the flesh of the sea-otter as a specific 
 against the scurvy. When not wanted for food, they were 
 killed for their fine skins, nine hundred being collected on 
 the island, and equally divided among the crew. A dead 
 whale, which was thrown upon the coast, they called their 
 magazine, as it proved a resource when nothing better could 
 
 * Coxe's Russian Discoveries, pp. 73, 74. 
 
74 DEATH OP BEHRING. [1741. 
 
 be got. The flesh was cut into small pieces, which they 
 boiled a long time, to separate the oil from it as much as 
 possible, and the remaining hard and sinewy parts they 
 swallowed without chewing. 
 
 In this miserable manner they continued to support life ; 
 but some of the crew sunk daily under the disease, and on 
 the 8th of December the commodore expired. Behring 
 was an officer of extraordinary merit; and, until reduced 
 by the disease of which he became the victim, endowed with 
 unshaken perseverance and energy. His voyage set at rest 
 the disputed point regarding the separation of the two 
 continents of Asia and America; and he has deservedly 
 bequeathed his name to the strait which he was the first to 
 explore, and the desolate island on which he died. It is 
 melancholy to think, that after the exertions he had made 
 in the cause of naval discovery, his life terminated so miser- 
 ably ; for it may almost be said that he was buried alive. 
 The sand rolled down continually from the side of the 
 cavern in which he lay, and at last covered his feet ; nor 
 would he suffer it to be removed, saying he felt warmth 
 from it, when he was cold in all other parts. It thus gra- 
 dually increased upon him, till his body was more than half 
 concealed ; so that, when he at last expired, it was found 
 necessary to unearth him previously to his being interred. 
 u Behring," says Steller, who was by no means disposed to 
 exaggerate the good qualities of his commander, " displayed 
 in his illness the most affecting resignation to the will of 
 the Supreme Being, and enjoyed his understanding and 
 speech to the last. He was convinced that the crew had 
 been driven on an unknown land ; yet he would not terrify 
 others by declaring his opinion, but cherished their hopes 
 and encouraged their exertions. He was buried according 
 to the Protestant ritual, and a cross was erected over his 
 grave to mark the spot, and to serve also as an evi- 
 
1742.] STATE OP THE EXPEDITION. 75 
 
 dence that the Kussians had taken possession of the 
 country."* 
 
 Soon after the death of the commodore, the whole crew 
 were sheltered from the severity of the winter in subter- 
 ranean dwellings contiguous to each other, and recovered 
 so much strength by the use of sweet and excellent water, 
 and the flesh of the sea- animals killed in hunting, that their 
 existence became comparatively comfortable. Of the manner 
 in which they passed their time during the dreary winter 
 months, from December to May, Steller has left us in his 
 journal a minute and interesting account. In March the 
 sea- otters disappeared, either from the instinct of changing 
 their abode at particular seasons of the year, or banished 
 by continual persecution ; but their place was supplied by 
 other marine animals, which, in their turn, also left them. 
 u To supply ourselves with fuel," says Steller, "was like- 
 wise a considerable labour : As the island produced nothing 
 but willow-bushes, and the driftwood was often deeply 
 buried in the snow till the end of March, we were compelled 
 to bring it from a distance of even fifteen or sixteen versts ; 
 and our load upon these expeditions amounted to from sixty 
 to eighty pounds, besides our hatchets and kettles, with the 
 necessary implements for mending our shoes and clothes. 
 In April, however, we were relieved from this labour by 
 the thaw and breaking up of the vessel. An anecdote of 
 an escape made by them in hunting, as it is given by the 
 same lively writer, presents us with a striking picture of 
 their manner of life upon the island. "On the 5th of 
 April," says he, " during a gleam of favourable weather, 
 Steneser and myself, with my Cossack and a servant of 
 Behring, went on a hunting expedition. Having killed as 
 many sea-otters as we were able to carry, we made a fire 
 
 * Coxe's Russian Discoveries, p. 79. 
 
76 THEY BUILD A NEW VESSEL. [1742. 
 
 in a cliff, where we proposed to pass the night. At mid- 
 night a violent hurricane arose, and the snow fell in such 
 quantities that we should have been buried had we not run 
 continually backwards and forwards. In the morning, 
 after a long and fruitless search for shelter, we resigned 
 ourselves to our fate ; but the Cossack fortunately discovered 
 a large cavern, which seemed to have been formed by an 
 earthquake, where we entered with our provision and wood. 
 It afforded a secure retreat from the weather, contained a 
 cavity in which we could hide our provisions from the 
 depredations of the stone-foxes, and was provided with an 
 aperture which served the purpose of a chimney. The cave 
 and bay, which were named in compliment to me, were 
 inhabited by numerous foxes, which retired on our approach 
 through the chimney ; but the smoke from our fire caused 
 such a spitting and sneezing amongst them, as gave no 
 small diversion to the party. At night, however, they 
 occasionally returned into the cavern, and amused them- 
 selves with taking away our caps, and playing other similar 
 gambols. On the 4th we returned to our abode with a rich 
 booty, and were received with great delight by our com- 
 panions, who thought us lost."* 
 
 On the 6th of May, such of the crew as were able to 
 work began to build from the relics of the wreck a vessel, 
 which was intended to carry the survivors to Kamtschatka. 
 Their number was now reduced to forty -five, thirty having 
 died on the island, including the three carpenters ; but a 
 Siberian Cossack named Starodubzow, who had for some 
 time worked as a shipwright at Ochotzk, superintended 
 the building of the new ship. At first they were put to 
 great inconvenience from a deficiency of tar; but by an 
 uigenious contrivance it was extracted from the new cord- 
 
 * We have availed ourselves of Coxe's translation of this passage, as 
 published in his Russian Discoveries, pp. 85. 86. 
 
1742.] RETURN TO KAMTSCHATKA. 77 
 
 age which they had to spare. After being cut and picked, 
 they put it into a large copper kettle, having a cover fitting 
 close, with a hole in the middle. They then took another 
 vessel with a similar cover, which they fixed firm in the 
 ground, and upon this set the copper kettle turned upside 
 down, the apertures in the lids being placed exactly against 
 each other. Part of this machinery was then buried in the 
 earth, and a fire kindled round what was above ground, by 
 which means the tar of the new cordage melted, and ran 
 into the inferior vessel. This contrivance having removed 
 their greatest difficulty, by the 10th of August the new 
 vessel was launched, and on the 16th Lieutenant Waxel 
 set sail with the melancholy remnant of his crew; but, 
 owing to contrary winds, they did not make the coast of 
 Kamtschatka till the 25th, although from Behring's Island 
 the distance was not more than thirty German miles. On 
 the 27th they anchored in Awatchka Bay; and the Cos- 
 sack, Starodubzow, to whose efforts in constructing the 
 vessel the preservation of the crew was mainly owing, 
 received the rank of sinbojarski, a degree of Siberian 
 nobility. Such is an account of the celebrated and un- 
 fortunate expedition of Commodore Behring, of which the 
 results were highly important to geographical science, 
 although dearly bought by the death of so many brave 
 men. 
 
 Although Lord Mulgrave had failed in his attempt to 
 discover, by a northerly course, a communication between 
 the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans,* the British Government 
 did not abandon all hope; and in 1776, Captain James 
 Cook, who had already established his reputation as the 
 greatest of modern navigators, was selected by the Ad- 
 miralty to conduct another expedition, reversing only the 
 
 * Polar Seas and Eegions, 3d edit. p. 327-335. 
 
78 COOK AND CLERKE'S VOYAGE. [1776. 
 
 plan, and endeavouring to sail from the Pacific into the 
 Atlantic, instead of from the Atlantic into the Pacific. 
 
 In prosecution of this plan, on the 12th of July 1776, 
 Cook sailed from Plymouth Sound in the Resolution, 
 leaving instructions for the Discovery, the command of 
 which was intrusted to Captain Charles Clerke, to join him 
 at the Cape. From that place the two ships proceeded, in 
 a course marked by important discoveries, through the 
 Southern Hemisphere, by Van Diemen's Land, New Zea- 
 land, Otaheite, and the Sandwich Islands. They then 
 steered north-eastward, and on the 7th of March, in lati- 
 tude 44£° north, came in sight of the American continent 
 at the coast of New Albion. Owing to unfavourable winds, 
 which forced the ships to the south, it was the 29 th before 
 Cook anchored in Nootka Sound, where he was soon visited 
 by thirty boats of the natives, carrying each from three to 
 seven or eight persons, both men and women. At first 
 none of the Americans would venture within either ship ; 
 and from the circumstance of their boats remaining at a 
 short distance all night, as if on watch, it was evident they 
 regarded the arrival of the strangers with much suspicion. 
 A friendly intercourse, however, was soon established; and 
 although theft, particularly of any iron utensil, was un- 
 scrupulously committed, they were pretty fair and honest 
 in their mode of barter. " They were," says Cook, " docile, 
 courteous, and good-natured; but quick in resenting what 
 they looked upon as an injury, and, like most other pas- 
 sionate people, as soon forgetting it. Their stature was 
 rather below the common size of Europeans ; and although 
 at first, owing to the paint and grease which covered their 
 skins, it was believed that they were of a copper com- 
 plexion, it was afterwards discovered that they were in 
 reality a white people. They were well armed with pikes, 
 some headed with bone, and many with iron; besides 
 
1776.] INTEKCOUKSE WITH THE NATIVES. 79 
 
 which they carried bows, slings, knives, and a short club, 
 like the patow of the New Zealanders ; their arrows were 
 barbed at the point, and the inner end feathered." A dis- 
 pute occurred after the arrival of the English, between the 
 inhabitants of the northern and southern coasts of the 
 sound; but a pacific treaty was concluded, and the event 
 celebrated by a species of music, in which they bore alter- 
 nate parts. "Their songs," says Captain Burney, who 
 was himself present, " were given in turn, the party sing- 
 ing having their pikes erected. When the first finished, 
 they laid down their pikes, and the other party reared 
 theirs. What they sung was composed of few notes, and 
 as wild as could have been expected; yet it was solemn 
 and in unison, and what I thought most extraordinary, 
 they were all well in tune with each other. The words 
 were at times given out by one man, as a parish-clerk gives 
 out the first line of a psalm."* 
 
 It appeared evident to Captain Cook, that previous to 
 this the inhabitants had never entertained any direct com- 
 munication with Europeans. "They were not startled," 
 says he, " by the report of a musket, till one day, upon 
 endeavouring to prove to us that arrows and spears would 
 not penetrate their war-dresses, a gentleman of our com- 
 pany shot a musket -ball through one of them folded six 
 times. At this they were so much staggered, that their 
 ignorance of fire-arms was plainly seen. This was after- 
 wards confirmed when we used them to shoot birds, the 
 manner of which confounded them." On the ships leaving 
 Nootka Sound, the natives accompanied their farewell with 
 a singular exhibition :—" When the anchor was heaving 
 up," says Burney, " they assembled in their boats, which 
 covered the cove, and began a song, in which they flour- 
 
 * Burney's North-Eastern Voyages of Discovery, p. 213. 
 
80 COOK AT NOOTKA SOUND. [1776. 
 
 ished the swords, saws, hatchets, and other things, which 
 they had obtained from us. In the midst of this valedic- 
 tory chorus, one man, mounted on a stage of loose boards, 
 which was supported by the people in the nearest canoes 
 or boats, danced with a wooden mask on, which he occa- 
 sionally changed, making himself resemble sometimes a 
 man, sometimes a bird, and sometimes an animal. Of 
 these masks they have great variety, and they parted with 
 them willingly, except those of the human face ; if they 
 sold any of these, it seemed to be with some repugnance, 
 as if they were parting with the image of a friend or a 
 relation, and were ashamed to be seen so doing."* 
 
 From Nootka Sound Captain Cook made a survey of the 
 coast by Mount Saint Elias, till he arrived at a cape which 
 turned short to the north, to which he gave the name of 
 Cape Hinchinbroke. Thence he proceeded to Prince Wil- 
 liam's Sound ; after which he pursued the coast to the 
 west, which was found to take a southerly direction, as 
 described by Behring and Tchirikow. These navigators, 
 however, as we have seen, had not made a very particular 
 examination; and although the tenor of Cook's instructions 
 did not permit him to devote much time to the exploring 
 rivers or inlets, till he reached the latitude of 65°, still that 
 eminent officer deemed himself at liberty to complete an 
 accurate survey of this hitherto undiscovered coast, from 
 the arm of the sea afterwards denominated Cook's Inlet, 
 round the great Peninsula of Alaska, terminating in Cape 
 Oonamak. He thence proceeded along the shores of 
 Bristol Bay, till he doubled Cape Newenham, from which 
 he steered in a north-easterly direction, and anchored in 
 Norton Sound. Leaving this, the ships entered Behring' s 
 Strait, and followed the coast to the north-west, till they 
 
 * Burney's North-Eastern Voyages of Discovery, pp. 217, 218. 
 
1776.] cook crosses behring's STRAITS TO ASIA. 81 
 
 doubled a promontory situated in 65° 45" north latitude, 
 which they named Prince of Wales' Cape, regarding it 
 as the western extremity of all America hitherto known. 
 Soon after, in the evening, they discerned the coast of Asia, 
 and standing across the strait came to anchor in a bay of 
 the Tschuktschi country, near a village, from which the 
 natives crowded to the shore. Observing this, Cook landed 
 with three boats well armed, and was received by the 
 Tschuktschi with cautious courtesy. About forty men, 
 armed each with a spontoon, besides bow and arrows, stood 
 drawn up on a rising ground close by the village ; and as 
 the English drew near, three of them came down towards 
 the shore, politely taking off their caps and making low 
 bows. On seeing some of the English leap from their 
 boats, they retired, and expressed by signs their desire that 
 no more should land; but when Cook advanced alone, with 
 some small presents in his hand, their confidence was re- 
 stored, and they exchanged for them two fox-skins and two 
 seahorse-teeth. All this time they never laid down their 
 weapons, but held them in constant readiness, except for a 
 short time, when four or five persons disarmed themselves 
 to give the English a song and a dance; even then, how- 
 ever, they placed them in such a manner that they could 
 reach them in an instant, and evidently for greater security 
 they desired their audience to sit down during the dance. 
 This Asiatic people, although dwelling within fifty miles 
 of the American coast, were evidently a different race from 
 the inhabitants of the shores of Behring's Strait. All the 
 Americans whom the English had seen since their arrival 
 on the coast were low of stature, with round chubby faces 
 and high cheek-bones. The Tschuktschi, on the contrary, 
 had long visages, and were stout and well made. Several 
 things which they had with them, and more particularly 
 their clothing, showed a degree of ingenuity surpassing 
 F 
 
82 RETURNS TO AMERICA. [1778. 
 
 what one could expect among so northern a people. Their 
 dress consisted of a cap, frock, breeches, boots, and gloves, 
 all made of leather or skins extremely well dressed, some 
 with the fur on, some without it, and the quivers which 
 contained their arrows were made of red leather neatly 
 embroidered, and extremely beautiful.* 
 
 From this bay the ships again stood over to the north- 
 east, and continuing their examination of the American 
 coast, Cook soon found himself surrounded by the dreary 
 features which mark the scenery of the Polar latitudes ; a 
 dark and gloomy sky, thick showers of snow and hail, and 
 immense fields and mountains of ice, covered in some places 
 by the huge forms of the walrus or seahorse, which lay in 
 herds of many hundreds, huddling like swine one over the 
 other. The flesh of these animals, when new killed, was 
 preferred by the crew to their common fare of salt meat, 
 but within four- and- twenty hours it became rancid and 
 fishy. From a point of land, which was denominated 
 Cape Mulgrave, they now explored the coast to the latitude 
 of 70° 29", where their progress was arrested by an un- 
 broken wall of ice apparently stretching from continent to 
 continent.-^- At this time the nearest land was about a 
 league distant, and the farthest eastern point seen* a low 
 headland much encumbered with ice, to which Cook gave 
 the name of Icy Cape, and which, till the recent disco- 
 veries of Captain Beechy, constituted the extreme limit of 
 European discovery in that quarter of the globe. It was 
 now the end of August; and as nothing farther could be 
 attempted at that season on the American coast, the ships 
 returned to the Sandwich Islands, with the intention of 
 resuming in the succeeding summer the attempt for the 
 discovery of a communication between the Pacific and the 
 
 * Cook'd Voyages, vol. vi. pp. 409, 410, 411. f Ibid. pp. 415, 417. 
 
1779.] MEARES' FIRST VOYAGE. 83 
 
 Atlantic — an object which their great commander did not 
 live to execute, having been killed in an unfortunate scuffle 
 with the natives of Owhyhee, on the 11th of February 1779. 
 The farther conduct of the expedition now fell to Gierke 
 and King, and an attempt was made to penetrate beyond 
 Icy Cape; but the continued fields of ice rendered it utterly 
 abortive. The ships therefore, having repassed Behring's 
 Strait, came to anchor in the Bay of St. Peter and St. 
 Paul, in Kamtschatka. Here Captain Clerke, who had 
 long been in a declining state, died ; upon which, to the 
 great satisfaction of the crews and officers of both ships, 
 who were sick of the dreary navigation in these inhospitable 
 latitudes, they returned home. 
 
 Subsequent to the voyages of Cook and Clerke, the 
 north-west coast of America was visited at different periods 
 by Meares, Vancouver, and Kotzebue; and though the 
 limit of discovery was not extended beyond Icy Cape, the 
 shores were more minutely examined, and a beneficial 
 commercial intercourse established with the natives. Of 
 Captain Meares' voyages, the great object was to establish 
 a trade between China and the north-west coast of America. 
 For this purpose an association of the leading mercantile 
 men *in Bengal fitted out two vessels — the Nootka, com- 
 manded by Meares himself, and the Sea-otter, by Lieu- 
 tenant Walter Tipping. The Sea-otter in the first instance 
 took a cargo of opium to Malacca, thence she proceeded to 
 America, and is known to have made Prince William's 
 Sound ; but after leaving that harbour, no accounts of her 
 were ever received, and it appears certain that she and her 
 crew perished at sea. The fate of Meares in the Nootka 
 was scarcely more tolerable : After a tedious and perilous 
 navigation in the China seas, they made their way through 
 the straits between Oonamak and Oonalaska against a cur- 
 rent running seven knots an hour, from which they sa'lcd 
 
84 MEAEES' FIRST VOYAGE. [1788. 
 
 across to America by the Schumagin Islands, and anchored 
 under Cape Douglas.* Thence they proceeded to Prince 
 William's Sound to winter ; and their residence here during 
 October, November, and December, though dreary and 
 tedious, was not without its comforts. The natives were 
 friendly, and brought them provisions ; they caught plenty 
 of excellent salmon, and the large flocks of ducks and geese 
 afforded constant sport to the officers, and a seasonable 
 supply for the table. But the horrors of an Arctic winter 
 began soon to gather round them. The ice closed in upon 
 the ship ; the snow fell so thick that all exercise became 
 impossible ; the ducks and geese collected into flocks, and 
 passed away to the southward ; the fish totally deserted the 
 creeks ; and the natives, a migratory race, imitating the 
 instinct of these lower species, travelled off in a body with 
 their temporary wigwams to a more genial district. To 
 add to these distresses, the scurvy made its appearance ; 
 whilst the sun described weekly a smaller circle, and shed 
 a sickly and melancholy light. Even at noon, through 
 an atmosphere obscured by perpetual snows, " tremendous 
 mountains forbade almost a sight of the sky, and cast their 
 nocturnal shadows over the ship in the midst of day." 
 The decks were incapable of resisting the intense freezing 
 of the night, and the lower part of them was covered an 
 inch thick with a hoar frost that had all the appearance of 
 snow, notwithstanding fires were kept constantly burning 
 twenty hours out of the twenty-four. Between the months 
 of January and May, twenty-three men died of the scurvy, 
 and the rest of the crew were so disabled as to be incapable 
 of any labour ; but the sun's return and the commencement 
 of more genial weather produced an instantaneous effect on 
 the health and spirits of the crew. The natives returned, 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. i. p. 19. Introductory Voyage. 
 
1788.] NATIVES OF PRINCE WILLIAM^ SOUND. 85 
 
 and assured the poor sufferers that the cold must soon be 
 gone, making them understand by signs that the summer 
 would commence about the middle of May ; and the sun, 
 which now began to make a larger circle over the hills, 
 not only chased away the huge and gloomy shadows that 
 like a funeral pall had covered the ship, but brought back 
 the fish to the rivers, and the migratory birds to the shore ; 
 so that they soon enjoyed an ample supply of fresh food. 
 On the 17th of May, a general breaking up of the ice took 
 place throughout the cove, and the feeling that they were 
 once more in clear water, with the prospect of soon leaving 
 a scene of so much distress and horror, cheered the minds 
 of the crew with inexpressible comfort.* These happy 
 anticipations were soon realized by their sailing from 
 Prince of Wales' Sound on the 21st June, and reaching 
 the hospitable cluster of the Sandwich Isles, where such 
 was the effect of the genial climate, that in ten days' resi- 
 dence every complaint had disappeared. On the 2d of 
 September they left the Sandwich Islands, and arrived on 
 the 20th October at Macao in China. 
 
 It may easily be imagined, that during so disastrous a 
 sojourn on the American shore, little or no progress could 
 be made in the survey of the coast, which was rugged ; and 
 at no great distance were mountains, covered with thick 
 woods for about two-thirds of their ascent, beyond which 
 they terminated in immense masses of naked rock. The 
 black pine grew in great plenty, and a few black currant 
 bushes were noticed, but no other kind of fruit or vegetable. 
 The number of savages seen by Meares did not exceed 
 five or six hundred, and these had no fixed place of 
 abode, but wandered up and down as fancy or necessity 
 impelled them. They were strong and athletic, rather 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. i. Introductory Voyage, p. 47# 
 
86 NATIVES OF PRINCE WILLIAM S SOUND. [1788. 
 
 exceeding the common stature of Europeans, with promi- 
 nent cheek bones, round flat faces, eyes small and black, 
 and hair, which they cut short round the head, of the same 
 jetty colour. A slit in the under lip, parallel to the mouth, 
 and a perforation in the septum of the nose, in which was 
 inserted a large quill or a piece of bark, gave them a 
 hideous look ; whilst a singular practice of powdering their 
 hair with the down of birds, allowing the frostwork and 
 icicles to hang from the beard, and painting the neck and 
 face with red ochre, increased the savage singularity of 
 their appearance. Their clothing consisted of a single frock 
 of the sea-otter skin reaching to their knees. When em- 
 ployed in their canoes, they used a dress made of the entrails 
 of the whale, which covered the head, and was so disposed 
 that it could be tied round the hole in which they sat, so as 
 to prevent the water from getting into the canoe, whilst it 
 kept the lower part of the body warm and dry. Their 
 hardihood and capacity of enduring pain astonished the 
 English, and was remarkably evinced upon an occasion 
 mentioned by Meares : — " In the course of the winter," says 
 he, " among other rubbish, several broken glass bottles had 
 been thrown out of the ship, and one of the natives, who 
 was searching among them, cut his foot in a very severe 
 manner. On seeing it bleed, we pointed out what had 
 caused the wound, and applied a dressing to it, which he 
 was made to understand was the remedy we ourselves 
 applied on similar occasions; but he and his companions 
 instantly turned the whole into ridicule, and at the same 
 time taking some of the glass, they scarified their legs 
 ind arms in a most cruel and extraordinary manner, 
 informing us that nothing of that kind could ever hurt 
 them."* 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. i. Introductory Voyage, p. G6. 
 
1789.] MEARES' SECOND VOYAGE. 87 
 
 The disastrous result of this first expedition did not deter 
 either Meares or his liberal employers from hazarding a 
 second voyage to the same coast, which was attended with 
 more important results. The Felice, of 230 tons burden, 
 and the Iphigenia, of 200, were fitted out on this adventure ; 
 the command being given to Captains Meares and Douglas. 
 Both vessels were copper-bottomed and strongly built, and 
 their crews consisted of Europeans and Chinese, among 
 whom were some excellent smiths, shipwrights, and other 
 artisans. The taking the Chinamen aboard was an experi- 
 ment. Before this time they had never formed part of the 
 crew of an English merchant-ship ; and it is but justice to 
 say that they proved hardy, good-humoured, and industrious. 
 Two other very interesting passengers were on board of 
 Captain Meares' ship — Teanna, a prince of Atooi, one of 
 the Sandwich Isles, who had volunteered to leave his native 
 country when Meares visited it during his former expedition, 
 and Comekala, a native of King George's Sound, who had 
 at the same time entreated to be carried to China. Of these 
 two specimens of savage life, Teanna was by far the finest, 
 both in moral and in physical qualities. He was about 
 thirty-two years old, near six feet five inches in stature, 
 and in strength almost Herculean. His carriage was dig- 
 nified, and, in consequence of the respect paid to his superior 
 rank in his own country, possessed an air of distinction, 
 to which his familiarity with European manners had not 
 communicated any stiffness or embarrassment. Comekala, 
 on the other hand, though cunning and sagacious, was a 
 stranger to the generous qualities which distinguished the 
 prince of the Sandwich Isles. He was kind and honest 
 when it suited his own interest ; but stole without scruple 
 whatever he wished to have, and could not procure by 
 fairer means. Brass and copper were metals which he 
 might almost be said to worship. Copper halfpence, but- 
 
88 king george's sound. [1789. 
 
 tons, saucepans — all possessed in his eyes the highest 
 charms. It was evident that he coveted the brass buttons 
 of the captain's uniform ; and his mode of fixing his eyes 
 on the object of his desire, and the pangs of ungratified 
 avarice, as exhibited in the contortions of his countenance, 
 proved matter of much amusement to the crew. The cause 
 of his insatiable thirst for copper became afterwards ap- 
 parent. 
 
 In the meantime, Captain Meares found it necessary to 
 separate from his consort, whose slow sailing threatened to 
 impede his progress ; and, after a long and hazardous pas- 
 sage, the ship anchored in Friendly Cove, in King George's 
 Sound, abreast of the village of Nootka, on the morning 
 of the 13th of May. Comekala, who for several days had 
 been in a state of high excitation, now enjoyed the genuine 
 delight of once more beholding his native shore ; and when 
 his intention of landing was made known, the whole inha- 
 bitants poured forth to give him welcome. The dress in 
 which he chose to appear for the first time after so long an 
 absence was very extraordinary. On a former occasion, 
 when visited by Hannapa, a brother chief, he contented 
 himself with an ordinary European suit ; but he now, says 
 Meares, arrayed himself in all his glory. His scarlet coat 
 was decorated with such quantities of brass buttons and 
 copper appendages of one kind or other, that they could 
 not fail to procure him profound respect from his country- 
 men, and render him an object of unbounded admiration to 
 the Nootka damsels. At least half a sheet of copper formed 
 his breastplate ; from his ears copper ornaments were sus- 
 pended ; and he contrived to hang from his hair, which was 
 dressed with a long pig-tail, so many handles of copper 
 saucepans, that their weight kept his head in a stiff upright 
 position, which very much heightened the oddity of his 
 appearance. For several of the ornaments with which he 
 
1789.] RECEPTION OF COMEKALA. 89 
 
 was now so proudly decorated, Comekala had lived in a 
 state of continual hostility with the cook, from whom he 
 purloined them ; but their last and principal struggle was 
 for an enormous spit, which the American prince had seized 
 as a spear to swell the circumstances of that splendour 
 with which he was preparing to dazzle the eyes of his 
 countrymen. In such a state of accoutrement, and feeling 
 greater delight than ever was experienced on the proudest 
 European throne, the long boat rowed Comekala ashore, 
 when a general and deafening shout from the crowd assured 
 him of the universal joy felt on his return. The whole 
 inhabitants moved to the beach, welcomed the traveller on 
 shore, and afterwards conducted him to the king's house, 
 which none but persons of rank were permitted to enter, 
 and where a magnificent feast of whale blubber and oil was 
 prepared. On the whole, Comekala' s reception, and the 
 impression made by his extraordinary costume, evinced his 
 intimate knowledge of the character of his countrymen ; for 
 though to the English the effect was irresistibly comic, the 
 natives regarded him with a mixture of silent awe and 
 wonder, which after a while broke forth into expressions 
 of universal astonishment and delight. 
 
 Not long after this exhibition, two Nootka princes, — 
 Maquilla and Callicum, paid a visit to the English. Their 
 little squadron, consisting of twelve canoes with eighteen 
 men each, moved with stately parade round the ship. The 
 men wore dresses of beautiful sea-otter skins, covering them 
 from head to heel ; their hair was powdered with the white 
 down of birds, and their faces bedaubed with red and black 
 ochre, in the form of a shark's jaw and a kind of spiral 
 line, which rendered their appearance extremely savage. 
 Eight rowers sat on each side, and a single man at the 
 bow; whilst the chiefs, distinguished by a high cap, pointed 
 at the crown, and ornamented with a small tuft of feathers, 
 
90 NOOTKA MUSIC. [1789. 
 
 occupied a place in the middle. All this was very striking ; 
 but the most remarkable accompaniment was the air which 
 they chanted, the effect of which is described by Meares as 
 uncommonly pleasing. "We listened," says he, "to their 
 song with an equal degree of surprise and pleasure. It 
 was indeed impossible for any ear susceptible of delight 
 from musical sounds, or any mind not insensible to the 
 power of melody, to remain unmoved by this solemn un- 
 expected concert. The chorus was in unison, and strictly 
 correct as to time and tune ; nor did a dissonant note escape 
 them. Sometimes they would make a sudden transition, 
 from the high to the low tones, with such melancholy turns 
 in their variations, that we could not reconcile to ourselves 
 the manner in which they acquired or contrived this more 
 than untaught melody of nature. There was also something 
 for the eye as well as the ear, and the action that accom- 
 panied their voices added very much to the impression 
 which the chanting made upon us all. Every one beat 
 time with undeviating regularity against the gunwale of 
 the boat with their paddles ; and at the end of every verse 
 they pointed with extended arms to the north and south, 
 gradually sinking their voices in such a solemn manner as 
 to produce an effect not often attained by the orchestras of 
 European nations." This account of the impressive music 
 of the people of Nootka Sound is, the reader may remember, 
 corroborated by Captain Burney.* The ceremony, however, 
 did not end with the song ; but after rowing twice round 
 the ship, rising up each time as they passed the stern, and 
 vociferating " Wacush! Wacush!" (friends), they brought 
 their canoes alongside, and the two chiefs came on board. 
 Both were handsome men of the middle size, possessing a 
 mild but manly expression of countenance. They accepted 
 
 * Supra, p. 70. 
 
1789.] HUNTING THE SEA-OTTER. 91 
 
 a present of copper, iron, and other articles, with signs of 
 great delight; and throwing off their sea-otter garments, 
 laid them gracefully at the feet of the English, and stood 
 on the deck quite naked. Each of them was presented 
 with a blanket, which they threw over their shoulders with 
 marks of high satisfaction, and descending into their canoes, 
 were paddled to the shore. 
 
 A brisk trade in furs now commenced, which, though 
 interrupted occasionally by the petty thefts of the savages, 
 was highly favourable to the commercial interests of the 
 expedition. Skins of the sea-otter, beaver, martin, sable, and 
 river-otter, of the ermine, black-fox, gray, white, and red 
 wolf, wolverine, marmot, racoon, bear, and mountain- sheep, 
 and in addition to all these, of the furred, speckled, and 
 common seal, sea-cow, and sea-lion, were all procured, 
 though some in greater abundance than others. Of these, 
 by far the most beautiful and valuable was the skin of the 
 sea- otter. The taking of this animal is attended with 
 considerable hazard ; but constant practice has taught the 
 natives both skill and courage. " When it is determined 
 to hunt the sea-otter," says Meares, " two very small canoes 
 are prepared, in each of which are seated two expert hun- 
 ters. The instruments they employ are bows and arrows, 
 with a small harpoon, which differs somewhat from the in- 
 strument of the same kind used in hunting the whale, the 
 shaft being much the same, but the harpoon itself of greater 
 length, and so notched and barbed that when it has once 
 entered the flesh it is almost impossible to extricate it. It 
 is attached to the shaft by several fathoms of sufficient 
 strength to drag the otter to the boat. The arrows em- 
 ployed are small, and pointed with bone formed into a 
 single barb. Thus equipped, the hunters proceed among 
 the rocks in search of their prey. Sometimes they sur- 
 prise the animal when sleeping on his back on the surface 
 
92 HUNTING THE WHALE. [1789. 
 
 of the water ; and if they can approach without awakening 
 him, which requires infinite caution and skill, he is easily 
 harpooned and dragged to the boat, when a fierce battle 
 often ensues between the otter and the hunters, who are 
 frequently severely wounded by his teeth and claws. The 
 more usual manner of taking him, however, is by pursuit, 
 and the chase is sometimes continued for hours. As the 
 animal cannot remain long under water, the skill is here 
 chiefly exerted to direct the canoes in the same line which 
 the otter takes when under water, at which time he swims 
 with a celerity that greatly exceeds that of his pursuers. 
 The moment he dives, therefore, the canoes separate, in 
 order to have the better chance of wounding him with their 
 arrows at the moment he rises, although it often happens 
 that this wary and cunning animal escapes, and baffles the 
 utmost skill of his persecutors. Should it happen that the 
 otters are overtaken with their young ones, the instinct of 
 parental affection comes out in its most deep and interest- 
 ing shape; all sense of danger and of self-preservation is 
 instantly lost, and both male and female defend their cubs 
 with the most furious courage, tearing out with their teeth 
 the arrows and harpoons fixed in them, and often attacking 
 the canoes themselves. On such occasions, however, their 
 utmost efforts are unavailing, and they and their offspring 
 never fail of yielding to the power of the hunters."* 
 
 The hunting the whale, however, is a still nobler sport ; 
 and nothing can exceed the skill and intrepidity with which 
 the Americans of Nootka engage in it. When it is de- 
 termined to proceed against this mighty creature, the chief 
 prepares himself with great ceremony. He is clothed in 
 the sea-otter's skin, his body besmeared with oil and painted 
 with red ochre ; the canoes selected for the service are of a 
 
 * Meares, vol. ii. p. 56. 
 
1789.] NOOTKA MECHANICAL ARTS. 93 
 
 size between those used in war and the ordinary kind, and 
 contain eighteen or twenty men, the bravest and most active 
 that can be found. When the whale is discovered, the chief 
 himself throws the first harpoon ; but all the people in the 
 various attendant canoes are armed with the same instru- 
 ment, to be employed as occasion may require. As soon 
 as the huge fish feels the smart of the first weapon, he dives, 
 and carries the shaft with all its bladders along with him, 
 on which the boats follow in his wake, and as he rises con- 
 tinue to fix their weapons till he finds it impossible to sink, 
 from the number of floating buoys attached to his body. 
 The whale then drowns, and is towed on shore with great 
 triumph and rejoicing.* He is immediately cut up, part 
 being dedicated to the feast which concludes the day, and 
 the remainder divided among those who shared the dangers 
 and glory of the chase. 
 
 The ingenuity of the Nootka savages in many mechanical 
 arts was very remarkable. Their manufacture of harpoons, 
 lines, fish-hooks, bows and arrows, their skill in tanning 
 and preparing furs, their ingenious manner of forging the 
 metals procured from the English into various ornaments 
 for their wives or favourites, and above all, their art in 
 constructing canoes, astonished the European and Chinese 
 artisans. Of the iron received in exchange for furs they 
 made tools ; and it was seldom they could be prevailed on 
 to use European utensils in preference to their own, with 
 the exception of the saw, the utility of which in abridging 
 labour was immediately perceived and made available. 
 They formed of the same metal a species of tool for hollow- 
 ing out large trees, which purpose it served far better than 
 any instrument the carpenters of the Felice could give 
 them. In this operation a flat stone was employed in place 
 
 * Meares, vol. ii. pp. 52, 55. 
 
91 NOOTKA ARCHITECTURE. [17S9. 
 
 of an anvil, whilst a round one served for a hammer; and 
 with these rude implements they shaped the red-hot iron 
 into a tool resembling a cooper's adze, which they fastened 
 to a wooden handle with cords made of sinews; it was then 
 sharpened, and proved admirably adapted for the purposes 
 for which it was intended.* 
 
 After the English had been for some time in King 
 George's Sound, the Americans began to make use of sails 
 formed of mats, in imitation of Captain Meares' ship. 
 Hannapa got the sailors to rig one of his war-canoes in the 
 English style, of which he was extremely proud, never 
 omitting the csremony of hoisting his pendant whenever 
 he approached, to the great amusement of the crew. Not 
 long after this, the English were waited upon by Wicananish, 
 a prince of greater wealth and power than any they had 
 yet seen, who invited them to visit his kingdom, which lay 
 at some distance to the southward, that a commercial inter- 
 course might be established for the advantage of both par- 
 ties. The invitation was accepted, and Wicananish himself 
 met the Felice at some distance from the shore with a small 
 fleet of canoes; and, coming on board, piloted them into 
 the harbour. They found the capital to be at least three 
 times the size of Nootka. The country round was covered 
 with impenetrable woods of great extent, in which were 
 trees of enormous size. After the king and his chiefs had 
 been entertained on board, the English were in return in- 
 vited to a feast by Wicananish ; and it is not easy to con- 
 ceive a more interesting picture of savage life than is given 
 by Meares on this occasion: — " On entering the house," says 
 he, " we were absolutely astonished at the vast area it 
 enclosed. It contained a large square, boarded up close on 
 all sides to the height of twenty feet, with planks of an un- 
 
 * Meares, vol. ii. pp. 58, 59. 
 
1789.] PALACE OF WICANANISH. 95 
 
 common breadth and length. Three enormous trees, rudely 
 carved and painted, formed the rafters, which were sup- 
 ported at the ends and in the middle by gigantic images, 
 carved out of huge blocks of timber. The same kind of 
 broad planks covered the whole to keep out the rain ; but 
 they were so placed as to be removable at pleasure, either 
 to receive the air and light, or to let out the smoke. In 
 the middle of this spacious room were several fires, and 
 beside them large wooden vessels filled with fish- soup. 
 Large slices of whales' flesh lay in a state of preparation, 
 to be put into similar machines filled with water, into which 
 the women, with a kind of tongs, conveyed hot stones from 
 very fierce fires, in order to make it boil. Heaps of fish 
 were strewed about ; and in this central part of the square, 
 which might properly be called the kitchen, stood large 
 seal- skins filled with oil, from whence the guests were 
 served with that delicious beverage. The trees that sup- 
 ported the roof were of a size which would render the mast 
 of a first rate man-of-war diminutive on a comparison with 
 them; indeed, our curiosity as well as our astonishment 
 was at its utmost stretch, when we considered the strength 
 which must have been required to raise these enormous 
 beams to their present elevation, and how such strength 
 could be commanded by a people wholly unacquainted, as 
 we supposed, with the mechanic powers. The door by 
 which we entered this extraordinary fabric was the mouth 
 of one of these huge images, which, large as it may, from 
 this circumstance, be supposed to have been, was not dis- 
 proportioned to the other features of its colossal visage. 
 We ascended by a few steps on the outside; and, after 
 passing the portal, descended down the chin into the house, 
 where we found new matter for wonder in the number of 
 men, women, and children who composed the family of the 
 chief, which consisted of at least eight hundred persons. 
 
96 FEAST GIVEN TO THE ENGLISH. [1789. 
 
 These were divided into groups according to their respec- 
 tive offices, which had distinct places assigned them. The 
 whole of the interior of the building was surrounded by a 
 bench, about two feet from the ground, on which the various 
 inhabitants sat, ate, and slept. The chief appeared at the 
 upper end of the room surrounded by natives of rank, on a 
 small raised platform, round which were placed several 
 large chests, over which hung bladders of oil, large slices 
 of whales' flesh, and proportionable gobbets of blubber. 
 Festoons of human skulls, arranged with some attention 
 to uniformity, were disposed in almost every part where 
 they could be placed; and, however ghastly such orna- 
 ments appeared to European eyes, they were evidently 
 considered by the courtiers and people of Wicananish as a 
 very splendid and appropriate decoration of the royal apart- 
 ment." "When the English appeared, the guests had made 
 a considerable advance in their banquet. Before each per- 
 son was placed a large slice of boiled whale, which, with 
 small wooden dishes filled with oil and fish -soup, and a 
 muscle-shell instead of a spoon, composed the economy of 
 the table. The servants busily replenished the dishes as 
 they were emptied, and the women picked and opened 
 some bark, which served the purpose of towels. The 
 guests despatched their messes with astonishing rapidity 
 and voracity, and even the children, some of them not 
 above three years old, devoured the blubber and oil with a 
 rapacity worthy of their fathers. Wicananish in the mean- 
 time did the honours with an air of hospitable yet dignified 
 courtesy, which might have graced a more cultivated 
 society. 
 
 At the conclusion of the feast, it was intimated to the 
 English that the proper time had arrived to produce their 
 presents. Upon this a great variety of articles were dis- 
 played; among which were several blankets and two copper 
 
17S9.] BRISK TRADE IN FURS. 97 
 
 tea-kettles. On these last, considered to be almost ines- 
 timable, the eyes of the whole assembly were instantly 
 riveted; and a guard was immediately mounted, who kept 
 a jealous watch over them till curiosity was gratified; after 
 which they were deposited in large chests, rudely carved 
 and fancifully adorned with human teeth. About fifty men 
 now advanced into the middle of the apartment, each hold- 
 ing up a sea- otter skin nearly six feet in length; and while 
 they remained in that position the prince delivered a speech, 
 during which he gave his hand in token of friendship to 
 the captain, and informing him that these skins were the 
 return he proposed to make for the present he had just 
 received, concluded by ordering them to be immediately 
 conveyed on board. 
 
 The English now opened a brisk trade, procuring the 
 finest furs, whilst they were supplied with excellent provi- 
 sions. Salmon, cod, halibut, rock-fish, and herrings, were 
 brought to them fresh from the water; and the women and 
 children sold them berries, wild onions, salads, and other 
 esculent plants, Wicananish, however, was anxious to 
 establish a rigid monopoly, and evinced the utmost jealousy 
 lest any neighbouring princes should be admitted to trade 
 with the English. None were allowed to go on board 
 without his license; and one unfortunate stranger was 
 detected without a passport, hurried into the woods, and, 
 as was strongly suspected, instantly put to death. At last 
 two chiefs, who had already entered into some transactions 
 with Captain Meares, remonstrated against such illiberal- 
 ity; and Wicananish, rather than go to war, concluded a 
 treaty, which had the effect of restoring a good understand- 
 ing by mutual sacrifices. Hanna and Detooche agreed to 
 resign to Wicananish all the otter- skins in their possession, 
 on condition of receiving the two copper tea-kettles already 
 mentioned. These last articles, however ludicrous it may 
 
98 NATURE OF THE COUNTRY. [1789. 
 
 appear in the eyes of European diplomatists, formed the 
 grand basis of the treaty, and the terms of exchange were 
 not arranged without much difficulty. During these pro- 
 ceedings the English had little opportunity to examine 
 the country; but everything which they saw was inviting. 
 An archipelago extended from King George's Sound to 
 the harbour of Wicananish, most of the islands being 
 covered with wood, with few clear spots. The soil was 
 rich, producing berries and fruits in abundance, and the 
 timber of uncommon size and beauty, consisting chiefly of 
 red oak, large cedar, black and white spruce-fir. In their 
 expeditions into the interior they met with frequent groves, 
 where almost every second tree was fit for masts of any 
 dimensions.* 
 
 From Wicananish Captain Meares sailed southward 
 along a coast not visited by Cook, of which the chart by 
 Maurelle was so inaccurate, that it seemed almost certain 
 he had never surveyed it in person. During this voyage 
 they were visited by a small fleet of canoes, filled with 
 people far more savage than those hitherto met with. The 
 face of the chief was bedaubed with black ochre, and pow- 
 dered with a glittering sand, which communicated a singular 
 fierceness of expression; whilst his manners were rude, and 
 gave no encouragement to any more intimate intercourse. 
 Meares continued his survey of the coast as far north as 
 latitude 49° 37'; after which he retraced his progress, and 
 on reaching the Strait of Juan de Fuca, took possession of 
 it, with all the usual ceremonies, in the name of the King 
 of G reat Britain. The existence of this channel, which 
 had been doubted since its discovery in 1592, was now 
 positively ascertained, and the long-boat was despatched 
 ap the strait under the command of Mr. Duffin, first officer 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. i. p. 239. 
 
1789.] STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA. 99 
 
 of the Felice. Her crew consisted of thirteen sailors, well 
 armed, and provisioned for a month. In a week, however, 
 they returned — with their full complement indeed, but 
 every one of them wounded. They had been attacked by 
 the natives with a ferocity and determination which set at 
 nought the usual terror of fire-arms. The assailants used 
 their bows and arrows, clubs, spears, stone-bludgeons, and 
 slings, with great skill and courage. The boat itself 
 showed this, being pierced in numerous places with the 
 barbed arrows, many of which were still sticking in the 
 awning, which, by intercepting the heavy showers of these 
 missiles, and breaking the fall of the large stones discharged 
 from the slings, was the principal means of preserving the 
 lives of the crew. 
 
 On returning down the strait, they were met by a canoe 
 paddled by two subjects of Wicananish; and after purchas- 
 ing some fish, were about to bid them farewell, when the 
 savages made them aware that they still had another com- 
 modity to dispose of, and to their inexpressible horror 
 exhibited two human heads still dripping with blood. 
 " They held up these detestable objects by the hair," says 
 Meares, " with an air of triumph and exultation; and when 
 the crew of the boat discovered signs of disgust and detes- 
 tation at so appalling a spectacle, the savages, in a tone 
 and with looks of extreme satisfaction, informed them that 
 they were the heads of two people belonging to Tatootche, 
 the enemy of their own king Wicananish, whom they had 
 recently slain."* 
 
 This last occurrence threw a gloom over the spirits of 
 the ship's company, and caused them to make more minute 
 inquiries into the habits of the savages, which brought to 
 light some very extraordinary circumstance* ». Mild and 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. i. p. 289« 
 
100 CANNIBALISM. [1789. 
 
 amiable as were the general manners of the inhabitants of 
 Nootka Sound, it was discovered, by their own confession, 
 that they not only tortured captives with every refinement 
 of cruelty, but feasted on human flesh. Callicum, a chief 
 described by Meares as a model of kindness and even of 
 delicacy in his intercourse with the English, acknowledged 
 that he slept nightly on a pillow filled with human skulls, 
 which he often exhibited as trophies of his valour. Maquilla 
 betrayed his cannibal propensities in a manner still more 
 decided : — " It so happened that the chief, in ascending the 
 side of the ship, by some untoward accident received a hurt 
 in the leg. Orders were immediately given to the surgeon 
 to attend, and when he was about to apply a plaster to the 
 wound, Maquilla absolutely refused to submit, but sucked 
 himself the blood which freely flowed from it ; and when 
 we expressed our astonishment and disgust at such conduct, 
 he replied by licking his lips, patting his belly, and 
 exclaiming, ' Cloosh, cloosh!' or 'Good, good!' Nor did 
 he now hesitate to confess that he ate human flesh, and to 
 express the delight he took in banqueting upon his fellow- 
 creatures ; not only avowing the practice, but informing the 
 crew, as they stood shuddering at the story, that not long 
 before this the ceremony of killing and eating a slave had 
 taken place at Friendly Cove." * This acknowledgment 
 was confirmed by Callicum and Hannapa, who, protesting 
 they had never tasted the smallest bit of human flesh 
 themselves, described Maquilla as peculiarly fond of it, 
 and in the practice of killing a slave once a month to 
 gratify his unnatural appetite. Perhaps there might be 
 some exaggeration in this ; but the ghastly ornaments 
 of Wicananish's dining-room, the extraordinary pillow of 
 Callicum, the exposure of men's heads and limbs for sale, 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. ii. p. 49. 
 
1789.] SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES. 101 
 
 and the admission of the chief himself, sufficiently prove 
 the existence of this atrocious custom, whatever might be 
 the extent to which it was carried. 
 
 For a long time the English thought the inhabitants 
 had no religious belief whatever. To the huge misshapen 
 images seen in their houses they address no homage ; they 
 had neither priests nor temples, nor did they offer any 
 sacrifices; but an accidental circumstance led to the dis- 
 covery that, though devoid of all superstitious observances, 
 and wholly ignorant of the true God, they were not without 
 a certain species of mythology, including the belief of an 
 existence after death. "This discovery," says Meares, 
 " arose from our inquiries on a very different subject. On 
 expressing our wish to be informed by what means they 
 became acquainted with copper, and why it was such a 
 peculiar object of their admiration, a son of Hannapa, one 
 of the Nootkan chiefs, a youth of uncommon sagacity, 
 informed us of all he knew on the subject ; and we found, 
 to our surprise, that his story involved a little sketch of 
 their religion." When words were wanting, he supplied 
 the deficiency by those expressive actions which nature or 
 necessity seems to communicate to people whose language 
 is imperfect ; and the young Nootkan conveyed his ideas 
 by signs so skilfully as to render them perfectly intelli- 
 gible. He related his story in the following manner : — 
 " He first placed a certain number of sticks on the ground, 
 at small distances from each other, to which he gave 
 separate names. Thus, he called the first his father, and 
 the next his grandfather : he then took what remained, and 
 threw them all into confusion together, as much as to say 
 that they were the general heap of his ancestors, whom he 
 could not individually reckon. He then, pointing to this 
 bundle, said, when they lived, an old man entered the 
 Sound in a copper canoe, with copper paddles, and every- 
 
]02 SPECULATIONS ON A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. [1789. 
 
 thing else in his possession of the same metal; that he 
 paddled along the shore, on which all the people were 
 assembled to contemplate so strange a sight, and that, 
 having thrown one of his copper paddles on shore, he 
 himself landed. The extraordinary stranger then told the 
 natives that he came from the sky, to which the boy 
 pointed with his hand ; that their country would one day 
 be destroyed, when they would all be killed, and rise 
 again to live in the place from whence he came. Our 
 young interpreter explained this circumstance of his narra- 
 tive by lying down as if he were dead, and then, rising up 
 suddenly, he imitated the action as if he were soaring 
 through the air. He continued to inform us that the 
 people killed the old man and took his canoe, from which 
 event they derived their fondness for copper, and he added 
 that the images in their houses were intended to represent 
 the form, and perpetuate the mission, of this supernatural 
 person who came from the sky." * 
 
 As the objects of this voyage were principally of a com- 
 mercial nature, Captain Meares had better opportunities to 
 observe the character of the natives than to explore the 
 coast or the interior of the country. The range of his 
 navigation, extending only from Nootka Sound to the lati- 
 tude of 49° 37' north, disclosed no regular continuity of 
 land, but in every direction large islands, divided by deep 
 sounds and channels. The time which this intelligent 
 seaman could spare was not enough to complete the survey; 
 but judging from what he did see, he was led to the belief 
 that the entire space from St. George's Sound to Hudson's 
 Bay and Davis' Strait, instead of a continent, was occupied 
 by an immense archipelago, through which might reach a 
 passage from the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean. " The 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. ii. pp. 70, 71. 
 
1790.] VOYAGE OF VANCOUVER. 103 
 
 channels of this archipelago," says he, in his memoir on 
 the probable existence of a north-west passage, " were 
 found to be wide and capacious, with near two hundred 
 fathoms depth of water, and huge promontories stretching 
 out into the sea, where whales and sea-otters were seen in 
 an incredible abundance. In some of these channels there 
 are islands of ice, which we may venture to say could never 
 have been formed on the western side of America, which 
 possesses a mild and moderate climate; so that their 
 existence cannot be reconciled to any other idea, than that 
 they received their formation ia the Eastern Seas, and have 
 been drifted by tides and currents through the passage for 
 whose existence we are contending." * 
 
 To determine this great question, and complete an accu- 
 rate survey of the north-west coast of America, Captain 
 Vancouver, an excellent officer, who had received his pro- 
 fessional education under Cook, was despatched in 1790 ; 
 and commencing his voyage at Cape Mendocino, in lati- 
 tude 41°, he sailed northward two hundred and nineteen 
 leagues to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, never losing sight 
 of the surf which dashed against the shore, taking once or 
 twice every day the meridional altitude, and minutely 
 noting the position of the most conspicuous points. The 
 whole coast presented an impenetrable barrier against 
 approach from the sea, and no opening was found to afford 
 his vessels the smallest shelter. He then explored the 
 Strait of Juan de Fuca ; and having satisfied himself that 
 no passage across America was to be discovered there, 
 devoted his time to the survey of the labyrinth of islands, 
 sounds, and inlets, between 50° and 60° of latitude. After 
 a series of patient and scientific observations every way 
 worthy of the school in which he had been bred, he ascer- 
 
 * Meares' Voyages, vol. ii. p. 242. 
 
104 KOTZEBUE. [1816. 
 
 tained the grand fact that the coast was throughout con- 
 tinuous, and thus dispelled all hope of a north-west passage 
 in this quarter. It was his fate to encounter not a little 
 unreasonable scepticism when the result was made public ; 
 and, like many other travellers and navigators, he found too 
 much reason to complain of those lazy closet-philosophers 
 who refuse to admit any testimony which happens to con- 
 tradict their own preconceived theories. Time, however, 
 ha,s done him justice, and fully confirmed the accuracy of 
 his report. 
 
 After the disastrous result of the expedition of Behring, 
 more than eighty years elapsed before Russia thought 
 proper to pursue the career of discovery on the extreme 
 coasts of North-western America. At length Count 
 Romanzoff, a scientific and patriotic nobleman, determined 
 to despatch Lieutenant Kotzebue on a voyage to the 
 straits which bear the name of that great mariner. His 
 equipment consisted of a single vessel, the Rurick, 100 
 tons burden, with twenty-two sailors, a surgeon, and a 
 botanist. Having doubled Cape Horn, he arrived on the 
 19th June 1816 at Awatscha. Continuing his course, 
 he passed the boundary explored by Behring, and on 
 the 1st of August descried on his right, in latitude 68°, 
 a broad opening, which he trusted would prove the long- 
 sought-for passage. Having entered, he landed on the 
 beach, ascended a neighbouring hill, and saw nothing but 
 water as far as the eye could reach. Full of ardent expec- 
 tation, he employed a fortnight in examining this sound, 
 making a complete circuit of its shores. No outlet, how- 
 ever, was discovered, except one, which it appeared almost 
 certain communicated with Norton Sound, and Kotzebue 
 resumed his voyage, which, however, was attended with 
 no new or important results. To this arm of the sea, 
 the discovery of which forms the principal feature in 
 
1516.] COLONIZATION OF CANADA. 105 
 
 his enterprise, he has very properly communicated his 
 name. 
 
 With Kotzebue terminates our account of the progress 
 of discovery upon the north-western shores of America; 
 for an outline of the survey made by Captain Beechey 
 belongs to a future portion of this disquisition. It is a 
 pleasing reflection, that almost exclusively to the British 
 navy belongs the hard-earned praise of having explored 
 nearly the whole of this coast, with an accuracy which 
 leaves nothing to be desired by the most scientific navi- 
 gator. 
 
 CHAPTEK III. 
 
 Hearne and Sir Alexander Mackenzie. 
 
 Colonization of Canada — French Fur-Trade — Eise of Hudson's Bay 
 Company — Hearne's Three Journeys — North-West Fur Company — 
 First Journey of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in 1789 — His Second 
 Expedition in 1792. 
 
 Having completed a brief sketch of the progress of dis- 
 covery along the wide extent of the eastern and western 
 shores of North America, from the first expedition of Cabot 
 to the latest attempts of Kotzebue, two important subjects 
 present themselves — the rise of the fur-trade, and the 
 great discoveries which were achieved by British subjects 
 connected with this branch of commercial enterprise. The 
 expedition of C artier conferred on the French that title to 
 the countries round the St. Lawrence which results from 
 priority of discovery; and other circumstances combined to 
 direct their efforts chiefly to the colonization of the more 
 northern tracts of America. Amongst these causes may be 
 reckoned the disastrous failure of their attempt to establish 
 a settlement in Florida, the great power of the Spaniards 
 
106 SI EUR DE LA ROCHE. [1598. 
 
 in that quarter, and the pre-occupation of the middle 
 regions of the continent by the English. In 1598, the 
 Sieur de la Roche, a Breton gentleman of ancient family, 
 obtained from Henry IV. a patent, equally unlimited with 
 that granted by Elizabeth to Gilbert and Raleigh. He 
 was nominated Lieutenant- General of Canada, Hochelaga, 
 Newfoundland, Labrador, and of the countries lying on the 
 River of the great Bay of Norimbega (meaning the St. 
 Lawrence), and the supreme command, both civil and mili- 
 tary, was concentrated in his single person. His prepara- 
 tions were singularly disproportionate to these high-sound- 
 ing titles, and the whole expedition was unfortunate. La 
 Roche, with a small squadron, and crews consisting prin- 
 cipally of convicted felons, landed on Sable Island, near 
 the coast of Nova Scotia. From this barren spot, ill 
 adapted for a settlement, he reached the opposite shore, 
 which he surveyed ; and having intrusted the temporary 
 command of the colony to an inferior officer, he returned 
 to France to procure additional supplies. On arriving in 
 Brittany, a dispute arose between him and the Duke de 
 Mercoeur, a nobleman enjoying the confidence of the French 
 monarch, by whose influence the royal favour was wholly 
 withdrawn from La Roche. That adventurer, deprived of 
 all means of prosecuting his enterprise in the New World, 
 soon after died of a broken heart. 
 
 Meantime the colony on Sable Island were exposed to 
 famine and disease, and totally neglected by the king, 
 amid the occupation and excitement of his vast political 
 schemes. Their existence was at length accidentally 
 recalled to the mind of Henry, who, in deep remorse for his 
 forgetfulness, despatched a vessel, which on its arrival found 
 only twelve survivors. They had formed a hovel of the 
 planks of a shipwrecked Spanish vessel, supported them- 
 selves by fishing, and replaced their worn-out European 
 
1G00.] CHAUVIN AND PONTGRAVE. 107 
 
 garments with the skins of the sea- wolf. On their return 
 to France, the monarch was greatly moved by the account 
 of their sufferings, corroborated as it was by their emaciated 
 and haggard aspect, matted hair, beards which almost swept 
 the ground, and singular dress. He hastened to compen- 
 sate for his neglect, by granting to such as were felons a 
 free pardon, and presenting to each a sum of fifty crowns.* 
 These disasters were followed soon after by an attempt 
 of Chauvin and Pontgrave, two fur-merchants, to establish 
 a colony at Tadoussack, on the mouth of the Saguenay, 
 which proved abortive, and gave place to an expedition 
 on a more enlarged scale, planned and conducted by De 
 Monts, a gentleman of Saintonge, whose squadron consisted 
 of forty vessels. His first settlement was on the Island of 
 St. Croix, from which he removed to Port Royal, now known 
 by the name of Annapolis, where he appears to have aban- 
 doned his more pacific designs for the superior excitation 
 and profits of piracy. The complaints of the merchants 
 engaged in the Newfoundland fishery terminated in the 
 recall and disgrace of De Monts; but Champlain, on whom 
 the command devolved, showed himself every way worthy 
 of the trust. From Tadoussack he removed the principal 
 settlement to Quebec, where he built and fortified a town, 
 reduced the surrounding territory into cultivation, and 
 became the founder of the government of Canada, or New 
 France. Leaving his infant settlement, he next deter- 
 mined to penetrate into the interior ; and his emotions of 
 wonder and astonishment may be easily conceived, when, 
 ascending the St. Lawrence, the majestic forests of Canada 
 first met his eye, encircling in their bosom the greatest 
 lakes known to exist in the world. Surveying first the 
 southern bank of the river, and of the Lakes Ontai'io and 
 
 * Histoire General dcs Voyages, vol. xiv. pp. 589, 591. 
 
108 CHAMPLAIN. [1763. 
 
 Erie, lie found that he had reached the very cradle of savage 
 life, surrounded by nations whose manners, occupations, 
 and superstitions, were as new as they were bold and 
 terrific. 
 
 To pursue the discoveries of the French into the interior 
 of North America does not properly fall within the limits 
 of this work ; and it is sufficient at present to observe, that 
 after a long and sanguinary struggle between the arms 
 of France and England, in the war which broke out in 
 1756, Canada was at last subdued by the English, and the 
 possession of the province confirmed to Great Britain by 
 the treaty of 1763. During the war between the United 
 States and the mother country, Upper Canada once more 
 became the theatre of an obstinate contest, which concluded, 
 however, unfavourably for the American troops ; and the 
 country has since remained an integral part of the British 
 dominions, Under the French, the fur-trade, notwithstand- 
 ing the restrictions with which commerce was oppressed, 
 was carried to a great height, and embraced an immense 
 extent of country. It was conducted by a set of hardy 
 adventurers, who joined the savages in their hunting-par- 
 ties, and thus collected large cargoes of furs, with which 
 they supplied the merchants. Their distant inland expe- 
 ditions sometimes occupied twelve or even eighteen months ; 
 and during this period their uninterrupted familiarity with 
 the natives almost transformed them into as wild and bar- 
 barous a condition as that of the tribes with whom they 
 associated. " It requires less time," says Sir Alexander 
 Mackenzie, " for a civilized people to deviate into the man- 
 ners and customs of savage life, than for savages to rise 
 into a state of civilization. Such was the event with those 
 who thus accompanied the natives on their hunting and 
 trading excursions ; for they became so attached to the 
 Indian mode of life, that they lost all relish for their former 
 
1750.] FRENCH FUR TRADE. 109 
 
 habits and native homes. Hence they derived the title of 
 Coureurs de Bois, became a kind of pedlars, and were 
 extremely useful to the merchants engaged in the fur trade, 
 who gave them the necessary credit to proceed on their 
 commercial undertakings. Three or four of these people 
 would join their stock, put their property into a birch-bark 
 canoe, which they worked themselves, and would then either 
 accompany the natives in their excursions, or penetrate 
 at once into the country. At length these voyages extended 
 to twelve or fifteen months, when they returned with rich 
 cargoes of furs, and followed by great numbers of the 
 natives. During the short time requisite to settle their 
 accounts with the merchants, and procure fresh credit, 
 they generally contrived to squander away all their gains, 
 when they returned to renew their favourite mode of life, 
 their views being answered, and their labour sufficiently 
 rewarded, by indulging themselves in extravagance and 
 dissipation during the short space of one month in twelve 
 or fifteen. This indifference about amassing property, and 
 the pleasure of living free from all restraint, soon brought 
 on a licentiousness of manners, which could not long escape 
 the vigilant observation of the missionaries, who had much 
 reason to complain of their being a disgrace to the Chris- 
 tian religion, by not only swerving from its duties them- 
 selves, but bringing it into disrepute with those of the 
 natives who had become converts to it, and consequently 
 obstructing the great object to which these pious men had 
 devoted their lives. They therefore exerted their influence 
 to procure the suppression of these people ; and accordingly 
 no one was allowed to go up the country to traffic with the 
 Indians without a license from the French Government." * 
 This change of system was not at first attended with the 
 
 * Sir Alexander Mackenzie's History of the Fur Trade, prefixed to 
 his Voyages, pp. 1-3. 
 
110 COUREURS DE BOIS AND GROSSELIEZ. [1668. 
 
 expected benefits ; for the licenses were sold in most in- 
 stances to retired officers or their widows, who again dis- 
 posed of them to the fur merchants, and they of necessity 
 recalled to their service the Coureurs de Bois as their agents : 
 thus matters assumed, though by a somewhat more circui- 
 tous process, the same aspect as before. At last military 
 posts were established at the confluence of the great lakes, 
 which repressed the excesses of the wood-runners, and 
 afforded protection to the trade; whilst under this new 
 system, a body of respectable men, usually retired officers, 
 introduced order and regularity in the traffic with the 
 natives, co-operated with the efforts of the missionaries, 
 and extended their intercourse with the various tribes to 
 the distance of two thousand five hundred miles, from the 
 most civilized portion of the colony to the banks of the 
 Saskatchewine River in 53° north latitude, and longitude 
 102° west* Of these trading commanders two individuals 
 attempted to penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but appear to 
 have been unsuccessful. 
 
 The discoveries of the English in Hudson's Bay, and the 
 latest attempts of Fox and James to reach the Pacific 
 through some of its unexplored channels, have been suffi- 
 ciently enlarged upon in a former volume ; -{- but though 
 unsuccessful in their great design, the accounts brought 
 home regarding the rich furs of these extreme northern 
 shores excited the attention of Grosseliez, an enterprising 
 individual, who undertook a voyage to survey the country, 
 and laid before the French Government a proposal for a 
 commercial settlement upon the coast. The minister, 
 however, rejected it as visionary ; and Grosseliez, having 
 obtained an introduction to Mr. Montagu, the English 
 resident at Paris, was introduced to Prince Rupert, who, 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, Gen. Hist, of the Fur Trade, p. 6. 
 f Polar Seas and Regions, chap. vi. 
 
1668.] Hudson's bay company. Ill 
 
 struck by the probable advantages of the project, eagerly 
 patronized it. By his interest with the English king, 
 he obtained the grant of a ship commanded by Captain 
 Zachariah Gillam, who sailed with Grosseliez in 1668, and, 
 penetrating to the top of James' Bay, erected Fort Charles 
 on the bank of the Rupert River. In the succeeding year, 
 Prince Rupert, with seventeen other persons, were incorpo- 
 rated into a company, and obtained an exclusive right to 
 establish settlements and carry on trade in Hudson's Bay. 
 Their charter recites, that those adventurers having at their 
 own great cost undertaken an expedition to Hudson's Bay, 
 in order to discover a new passage into the South Sea, and 
 to find a trade for furs, minerals, and other commodities, 
 and having made such discoveries as encouraged them to 
 proceed in their design, his Majesty granted to them and 
 their heirs, under the name of " the Governor and Company 
 of Adventurers trading into Hudson's Bay," the power of 
 holding and alienating lands, and the sole right of trade in 
 Hudson's Strait, and with the territories upon the coasts of 
 the same. They were authorized to fit out ships of war, to 
 erect forts, make reprisals, and send home all English sub- 
 jects entering the bay without their license, and to declare 
 war and make peace with any prince or people not Christian.* 
 Instituted with such ample powers, and at first placed 
 under the management of enlightened men, this company 
 soon arrived at considerable prosperity. They have, indeed, 
 been severely censured, as exhibiting little zeal to promote 
 discovery, and for uniformly opposing every attempt on the 
 part of their servants to solve the long-agitated question of 
 a north-west passage. There appears to have been much 
 personal pique in these accusations ; and the expedition of 
 Knight, in 1721, fitted out on the most liberal scale at the 
 
 * Macpherson's Annals of Commerce, vol. ii. pp. 555, 556. 
 
112 HEARNE. [1768. 
 
 company's expense, and the tenor of their original instruc- 
 tions to their governor, certainly prove that they were not 
 enemies to the cause of discovery ; whilst the failure of the 
 voyages of Middleton in 1742, and of Captains Moore and 
 Smith in 1746, must at length have convinced the bitterest 
 opponents of the company, that if they had not discovered 
 the long-expected passage in some of the straits leading 
 into Hudson's Bay, it was for the very sufficient reason that 
 such did not exist. But the most remarkable refutation of 
 these allegations is to be found in the important and interest- 
 ing journey of Hearne, from Prince of Wales' Fort to the 
 Northern Ocean, brought to a successful termination in 1772, 
 which, in its origin and progress, merits our particular 
 attention. 
 
 The native Indians, who range over rather than inhabit 
 the large tract of country north of Churchill River, having 
 repeatedly brought specimens of copper ore to the company's 
 factory, it was plausibly conjectured that these had been 
 found not far from the British settlements ; and as the 
 savages affirmed that the mines were not very distant from 
 a large river, it was imagined, most erroneously as was 
 proved by the result, that this stream must empty itself into 
 Hudson's Bay. In 1768, the Indians, who came to trade 
 at Prince of Wales' Fort, brought farther accounts of this 
 river, exhibiting at the same time samples of copper, which 
 they affirmed to be the produce of a mine in its vicinity. 
 The governor now resolved to despatch an intelligent 
 person across the continent to obtain more precise informa- 
 tion. Samuel Hearne was chosen for this service, a man 
 of great hardihood and sagacity, bred in the employment 
 of the company, and who, without pretensions to high scien- 
 tific attainments, possessed sufficient knowledge to enable 
 him to construct a chart of the country through which he 
 travelled. His instructions directed him to proceed to the 
 
1769.] hearne's first journey. 113 
 
 borders of the country of the Athabasca Indians, where it 
 was expected he would meet with a river represented by 
 the Indians to abound with copper ore, and to be so far to 
 the north that in the middle of summer the sun did not 
 set. It was called by the natives Neetha-san-san Dazey, or 
 the Far-off Metal River ; and Mr. Hearne was directed to 
 explore its course to the mouth, where he was to determine 
 the latitude and longitude, to ascertain whether it was 
 navigable, and to judge of the practicability of a settlement. 
 He was enjoined also to examine the mines alleged to exist 
 in that district, the nature of the soil and its productions, 
 and to make every inquiry and observation towards dis- 
 covering the north-west passage.* 
 
 On the 6th of November 1769 he set out from Prince of 
 Wales' Fort, Hudson's Bay, upon this perilous journey. 
 He was accompanied by two Englishmen only — Ilbester, 
 a sailor, and Merriman, a landsman ; by two of the Home- 
 guard Southern Indians — a name given to those natives 
 residing as servants on the company's plantation, and em- 
 ployed in hunting ; and by eight Northern Indians, under 
 the command of Captain Chawchinahaw and Lieutenant 
 Nabyah. He was provided with ammunition for two years, 
 some necessary iron implements, a few knives, tobacco, and 
 other useful articles. As to his personal outfit, his stock 
 consisted simply of the shirt and clothes he wore, one spare 
 coat, a pair of drawers, as much cloth as would make two 
 or three pairs of Indian stockings, and a blanket for his 
 bed. "The nature of travelling long j ourney s, ' ' he observes, 
 " in these countries will not admit of carrying even the most 
 common article of clothing ; so that the traveller is obliged 
 to depend on the district he traverses for his dress as well 
 as his sustenance." The baseness and treachery of the 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, Introduction, p. 40. 
 
] 14 ITS FAILURE. [1769. 
 
 Indians, however, soon put a period to the first journey, and 
 the desertion of Chawchinahaw, with his whole escort, 
 rendered it absolutely necessary for the little party to make 
 the best of their way back to the fort, where they arrived 
 on the 8th of December, after penetrating only two hundred 
 miles into the interior. 
 
 It was now determined to resume the expedition with 
 greater precautions against failure. The Indian women 
 who accompanied their husbands in the first journey were 
 left behind, as were the two Englishmen, who had been of 
 little service ; and instead of the treacherous Chawchinahaw, 
 Hearne selected an Indian named Connequeesee, who affirmed 
 he was acquainted with the country, having once been near 
 the river, the discovery of which formed one great object 
 of the journey. Attended by this man, along with three 
 Northern Indians and two of the Home-guard natives, the 
 traveller once more set out on the 23d February, whilst the 
 snow was so deep on the top of the ramparts of the fort, 
 that few of the cannon could be seen. After undergoing 
 the severest extremities from hunger and fatigue, Mr. 
 Hearne reached in August the River Doobaunt, in latitude 
 63° 10' north. The progress thus far, however, had been 
 painful beyond measure, owing to the difficulty of pushing 
 forward through a wild unexplored country, intersected 
 with rivers, lakes, and woods, at the outset thickly covered 
 with snow ; and on the approach of the warmer months so 
 flooded and marshy, as to render travelling on foot inex- 
 pressibly fatiguing. To add to this, the voracity, improvi- 
 dence, and indolence of the Indians, subjected the party to 
 repeated distress. If from fishing or hunting a larger 
 supply than usual was procured, instead of using it with 
 moderation, and laying up a store for future necessities, all 
 was devoured by the savages, who, like the boa after he 
 has gorged his prey, coiled themselves up, and remained 
 
1770.] HIS SEVERE SUFFERINGS. 115 
 
 in a state of sleepy torpor till the call of hunger again 
 roused them to activity. 
 
 At first the party subsisted without difficulty on the fish 
 which abounded in the lakes and rivers ; but in the begin- 
 ning of April they entirely disappeared ; and as the " goose 
 season," or period when the geese, swans, ducks, and other 
 migratory birds, resort to these latitudes, was yet distant, 
 they began to suffer grievously from want of provisions. 
 Occasionally they were relieved by killing a few deer or 
 musk-oxen; but the ground and the brushwood were so 
 saturated with moisture from the melting of the snow, that 
 to kindle a fire was impossible. With their clothes drenched 
 in rain, and their spirits depressed, they were compelled to 
 eat their meat raw — a necessity grievous at all times, but 
 in the case of the flesh of the musk-ox, which is rank, 
 tough, and strongly impregnated with the sickening sub- 
 stance from which it derives its name, peculiarly repulsive 
 and unwholesome.* 
 
 The simple and modest manner in which these severe 
 sufferings are described by Hearne is peculiarly striking. 
 " To record," says he, " in detail each day's fare since the 
 commencement of this journey, would be little more than a 
 dull repetition of the same occurences. A sufficient idea of 
 it may be given in a few words, by observing that it may 
 justly be said to have been either all feasting or all famine ; 
 sometimes we had too much, seldom just enough, frequently 
 too little, and often none at all. It will be only necessary 
 to say, that we fasted many times two whole days and 
 nights, twice upwards of three days, and once, while at 
 Shenanhee, near seven days, during which we tasted not 
 a mouthful of anything, except a few cranberries, water, 
 scraps of old leather, and burnt bones." On these pressing 
 
 Hearne's Journey, p. 31. 
 
116 HIS SEVERE SUFFERINGS. [1771. 
 
 occasions, Hearne often saw the Indians examine their 
 wardrobe, which consisted chiefly of skin clothing, consider- 
 ing attentively what part could best be spared, when some- 
 times a piece of half-rotten deer-skin, and at others a pair 
 of old shoes, would be sacrificed to alleviate extreme hunger. 
 " None of our natural wants," he observes, " if we except 
 thirst, are so distressing or hard to endure as hunger, and 
 in wandering situations like that which I now experienced, 
 the hardship is greatly aggravated by the uncertainty with 
 regard to its duration, and the means most proper to be 
 used to remove it, as well as by the labour and fatigue we 
 must necessarily undergo for that purpose, and the disap- 
 pointments which too frequently frustrated our best concerted 
 plans and most strenuous exertions. It not only enfeebles 
 the body, but depresses the spirits, in spite of every effort 
 to prevent it. Besides which, for want of action, the sto- 
 mach so far loses its digestive powers, that, after long fast- 
 ing, it resumes its office with pain and reluctance. During 
 this journey I have too frequently experienced the dreadful 
 effects of this calamity, and more than once been reduced 
 to so low a state by hunger and fatigue, that when Provi- 
 dence threw anything in my way, my stomach has been 
 scarcely able to retain more than two or three ounces without 
 producing the most oppressive pain."* 
 
 On 30th June they arrived at a small river called Cafha- 
 whachaga, which empties itself into White Snow Lake, in 
 64° north latitude. Here, as the guide declared they could 
 not that summer reach the Coppermine River, Hearne 
 determined to pass the winter, with the intention of pushing 
 on to his destination in 1771. They accordingly forsook 
 their northward route, and taking a westerly course, were 
 joined in a few days by many troops of wandering Indians ; 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 33. 
 
1771.] RETURN FROM CATHAWHACHAGA. 117 
 
 so that by the 30th July they mustered about seventy 
 tents, containing nearly six hundred souls, and on moving 
 in the morning the whole ground seemed alive with men, 
 women, children, and dogs. The deer were so plenty that, 
 though lately five or six individuals had almost perished 
 from hunger, this numerous body supported themselves with 
 great ease, and often killed their game for the skins, leaving 
 the carcass to be devoured by the foxes.* In this manner, 
 engaged alternately in hunting and fishing, making obser- 
 vations on the country, and studying the extraordinary 
 manners of his associates, the English traveller was pre- 
 paring for his winter sojourn, when an accident rendered 
 his quadrant useless, and compelled him, on 13th August, 
 to set out on his return to the fort. 
 
 The hardships he endured on his route homeward were 
 various and accumulated : He was plundered by the Nor- 
 thern Indians, who, adding insult to injury, entered his 
 tent, smoked a pipe which they filled with the white man's 
 tobacco, asked to see his luggage, and without waiting for 
 an answer, turned the bag inside out, and spread every 
 article on the ground. The work of appropriation was 
 equally rapid, and the empty bag was flung to the owner ; 
 but a fit of compunction seizing them, they restored a knife, 
 an awl, and a needle. On begging hard for his razors, 
 they consented to give up one, and added enough of soap 
 to shave him during the remainder of his journey, making 
 him understand that the surrender of these articles called 
 for his warmest gratitude. 
 
 As the cold weather approached, the party thus plundered 
 suffered grievously from want of that warm deer- skin 
 clothing used by the Indians at this season. A dress of 
 this kind is rather costly, requiring the prime parts of from 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 40. 
 
118 HEARNE MEETS MATONABBEE. [1771. 
 
 eight to eleven skins. These Hearne at last managed to 
 collect • but as the Indian women alone could prepare them, 
 he was compelled to carry this load along with him from 
 day to day, earnestly begging the natives at each suc- 
 cessive resting-place to permit their wives to dress his 
 skins. He met, however, with a surly and uniform refusal ; 
 and at last, after bearing the burden for several weeks, was 
 forced to throw it off, and sustain the cold as he best could, 
 without either skin- clothing or snow-shoes. When con- 
 tinuing their course in this forlorn condition to the south- 
 east, they met with Captain Matonabbee, a powerful and 
 intelligent chief, who was then on his way to Prince of 
 Wales' Fort with furs and other articles of trade. It was 
 this person who brought the accounts of the Coppermine 
 River, which induced the company to fit out the expedi- 
 tion, and he was naturally interested in its success. He 
 evinced the utmost activity in relieving their wants, fur- 
 nished them with a warm suit of otter and other skins ; 
 and, not being able to provide them with snow-shoes, 
 directed them to a small range of woods, where they found 
 materials for both shoes and sledges. Matonabbee then 
 treated the party to a feast, and took occasion, in his con- 
 versation with Hearne, to explain the causes of his failure, 
 and to offer his assistance in a third expedition. He attri- 
 buted all their misfortunes to the misconduct of the guide, 
 and to their having no women with them. " In an expedi- 
 tion of this kind," said he, " when all the men are so heavily 
 laden that they neither can hunt nor travel to any consid- 
 erable distance, in case they meet with success in hunting, 
 who is to carry the produce of their labour? Women were 
 made for labour; one of them can carry or haul as much 
 as two men can do. They also pitch our tents, make and 
 mend our clothing, keep us warm at night; and, in fact, 
 there is no such thing as travelling any considerable dis- 
 
1771 -J hearne's third journey. 119 
 
 tance, or for any length of time, in this country without 
 them; and yet though they do everything, they are main- 
 tained at a trifling expense; for, as they always act the 
 dook, the very licking of their fingers in scarce times is 
 sufficient for their subsistence."* Assisted by this friendly 
 chief, the English traveller again set forward, and after 
 experiencing an intense degree of cold, by which the 
 favourite dog in his sledge was frozen to death, he reached 
 the fort on 25th November, having been absent eight 
 months and twenty-two days. Matonabbee arrived a few 
 days after. 
 
 Though twice compelled to return, Hearne, whose spirit 
 was not to be overcome by fatigue or disappointment, 
 offered his services to proceed on a third journey, which 
 was ultimately crowned with success. For this he engaged 
 Matonabbee as guide, and declined taking any Home- 
 guard Indians. Their place, however, was occupied accord- 
 ing to the principles already laid down, by seven of Maton- 
 abbee' s wives, who, by the assistance they afforded, did no 
 disparagement to the singular picture of female activity 
 which he had drawn. They set out on the 7th of Decem- 
 ber, and notwithstanding frequent privations, want of food, 
 and intense cold, their sufferings were not so aggravated 
 as in the former attempts. The country through which 
 they passed towards the west was wild and barren, occa- 
 sionally covered with thick shrubby woods of stunted pine 
 and dwarf juniper, studded with frequent lakes and swamps 
 whose sides were fringed with willows. Through this 
 ground they travelled in high spirits, but rather on short 
 commons, owing to the scarcity of deer and the impro- 
 vidence of the Indians, who consumed everything in the 
 store during the first days of their march, trusting to find 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 55. 
 
120 CATCHIKO DEER IN A POUND. [1772. 
 
 a stock of provisions which they had hid in a certain spot 
 on their way to the fort. On reaching the place, however, 
 they discovered that the provisions had been carried off; 
 and the equanimity with which the Indians bore the dis- 
 appointment, and travelled forward under the conjoined 
 miseries of hunger and fatigue, was very striking. At last 
 they succeeded in killing a few deer, and halted to take 
 some refreshment. For a whole day they never ceased 
 eating, and an additional repast on two large buck-deer, 
 which they killed a few days after, at last fairly overcame 
 Captain Matonabbee, who, after devouring at one sitting 
 as much as would have satisfied six moderate men, seemed 
 somewhat unreasonably astonished to find himself indisposed. 
 Having recovered from the effects of this surfeit, they 
 proceeded from Island Lake towards the main branch of 
 the Cathawhachaga, which they crossed, and directing their 
 course by Partridge Lake and Snow Bird Lake, arrived on 
 the 2d March at a large tent of Northern Indians, not far 
 from the Doobaunt Whoie River. Although these people 
 had remained in the same spot since the beginning of 
 winter, they found a plentiful subsistence by catching deer 
 in a pound. Their mode of accomplishing this is to select a 
 well-frequented deer-path, and enclose with a strong fence 
 of twisted trees and brushwood a space about a mile in 
 circumference, and sometimes more. The entrance of the 
 pound is not larger than a common gate, and its inside is 
 crowded with innumerable small hedges, in the openings of 
 which are fixed snares of strong well-twisted thongs. One 
 end is generally fastened to a growing tree; and as all the 
 wood and jungle within the enclosure is left standing, its 
 interior forms a complete labyrinth. On each side of the 
 door, a line of small trees, stuck up in the snow fifteen or 
 twenty yards apart, form two sides of an acute angle, 
 widening gradually from the entrance, from which they 
 
pi 
 
 DEER-HUKTIKG. 
 When all things are prepared, the Indians take their station on some eminence 
 commanding a prospect of this path, and the moment any deer are seen going that 
 way the whole encampment steal under cover of the woods till they get behind 
 them. They then show themselves in the open ground, and drawing up in the 
 form of a crescent advance.— Page 121. 
 
1772.] THELEWEY-AZA-WETH. 121 
 
 sometimes extend two or three miles. Between these rows 
 of brushwood runs the path frequented by the deer. When 
 all things are prepared, the Indians take their station on 
 some eminence commanding a prospect of this path, and 
 the moment any deer are seen going that way, the whole 
 encampment — men, women, and children — steal under 
 cover of the woods till they get behind them. They then 
 show themselves in the open ground, and, drawing up in 
 the form of a crescent, advance with shouts. The deer 
 finding themselves pursued, and at the same time imagining 
 the rows of brushy poles to be people stationed to prevent 
 their passing on either side, run straight forward till they 
 get into the pound. The Indians instantly close in, block 
 up the entrance, and whilst the women and children run 
 round the outside to prevent them from breaking or leaping 
 the fence, the men enter with their spears and bows, and 
 speedily despatch such as are caught in the snares or are 
 running loose.* 
 
 M'Lean, a gentleman who spent twenty-five years in the 
 Hudson's Bay territories, assures us that, on one occasion, 
 he and a party of men entrapped and slaughtered in this 
 way a herd of three hundred deer in two hours. 
 
 On the 8th of April they reached an island in a small 
 lake named Thelewey-aza-weth, and pitched their tent; 
 and as the deer were numerous, and the party, which had 
 been joined by various wandering Indians, now amounted 
 to seventy persons, they determined to remain for some 
 time, and make preparations for their enterprise in the 
 ensuing summer. They were busily employed during 
 their intervals from hunting, in providing staves of birch 
 about one and a quarter inch square and seven or eight 
 feet long, which served for tent-poles all the summer, and 
 
 * Hearne's Journej, p. 78-80. 
 
122 NORTHERN INDIAN WOMEN [1772. 
 
 were converted into snow-shoes in winter. Birch-rind, 
 with timbers and other wood for canoes, formed also ob- 
 jects of attention; and as Clowey, the place fixed upon for 
 building their canoes, was still many miles distant, all the 
 wood was reduced to its proper size, to make it light for 
 carriage. At this place Matonabbee solaced himself by 
 purchasing from some Northern Indians another wife, who 
 for size and sinews might have shamed a grenadier. 
 " Take them in a body," says Hearne, " and the Indian 
 women are as destitute of real beauty as those of any 
 nation I ever saw, although there are some few of them 
 when young who are tolerable ; but the care of a family, 
 added to their constant hard labour, soon make the most 
 beautiful amongst them look old and wrinkled, even before 
 they are thirty, and several of the more ordinary ones at 
 that age are perfect antidotes to the tender passion. Ask 
 a Northern Indian what is beauty? he will answer, a 
 broad flat face, small eyes, high cheek-bones, three or four 
 broad black lines across each cheek, a low forehead, a large 
 broad chin, a hook nose, and a tawny hide. These beauties 
 are greatly heightened, or at least rendered more valuable, 
 if the possessor is capable of dressing all kinds of skins, 
 and able to carry eight or ten stone in summer, and to haul 
 a far greater weight in winter. Such and similar accom- 
 plishments are all that are sought after or expected in an 
 Indian Northern woman. As to their temper, it is of 
 little consequence ; for the men have a wonderful facility 
 in making the most stubborn comply with as much alacrity 
 as could be expected from those of the mildest and most 
 obliging turn of mind."* 
 
 Before starting from this station, Matonabbee took the 
 precaution of sending in advance a small party with the 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, pp. 89, 90. 
 
1772.] TREATED WITH CRUELTY. 123 
 
 wood and birch-rind; they were directed to press forward 
 to Clowey, a lake near the barren ground, and there build 
 the boat, to be ready upon their arrival. When the 
 journey was about to be resumed, one of the women was 
 taken in labour. The moment the poor creature was 
 delivered, " which," says Hearne, " was not till she had 
 suffered a severe labour of fifty- two hours," the signal was 
 made for setting forward ; the mother took her infant on 
 her back, and walked with the rest ; and though another 
 person had the humanity to haul her sledge for one day 
 only, she was obliged to carry a considerable load in ad- 
 dition to her little one, and was compelled frequently to 
 wade knee- deep in water and wet snow. Amidst all this, 
 her looks, pale and emaciated, and the moans which burst 
 from her, sufficiently proved the intolerable pain she en- 
 dured, but produced no effect upon the hard hearts of her 
 husband and his companions. When an Indian woman is 
 taken in labour, a small tent is erected for her, at such a 
 distance from the encampment that her cries cannot be 
 heard, and the other women are her attendants, no male 
 except children in arms ever offering to approach; and 
 even in the most critical cases no assistance is ever given — 
 a conduct arising from the opinion that nature is sufficient 
 to perform all that is necessary. When Hearne informed 
 them of the assistance derived by European women from 
 the skill and attention of regular practitioners, their answer 
 was ironical and characteristic : "No doubt," said they, 
 " the many hump-backs, bandy legs, and other deformities 
 so common amongst you English, are owing to the great 
 skill of the persons who assisted in bringing them into the 
 world, and to the extraordinary care of their nurses after- 
 wards."* 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 93. 
 
124 AERIVAL AT CLOWEY. [1772. 
 
 In eleven days they travelled a distance of eighty -five 
 miles, and on 3d May arrived at Clowey, where they were 
 j oined by some strange Indians, and commenced the im- 
 portant business of building their canoes. The party sent 
 ahead for this purpose arrived only two days before, and 
 had made no progress in joining the timbers they had car- 
 ried along with them. The whole tools used by an Indian 
 in this operation, in making snow-shoes and all other kinds 
 of wood-work, are a hatchet, a knife, a file, and an awl; 
 but in the use of these they are very dexterous. In shape, 
 their canoes bear some resemblance to a weaver's shuttle, 
 having flat-bottoms, with straight upright sides, and sharp 
 at each end. The stern is the widest part, being con- 
 structed for the reception of the baggage ; and occasionally 
 it admits a second person, who lies at full length in the 
 bottom of the little vessel, which seldom exceeds twelve 
 or thirteen feet in length, and about twenty inches or two 
 feet in breadth at the widest part. The forepart is un- 
 necessarily long and narrow, and covered with birch-bark, 
 which adds to the weight without contributing to the burden 
 of the canoe. The Indians, for the most part, employ a 
 single paddle ; double ones like those of the Esquimaux 
 are seldom used unless by hunters, who lie in ambush for 
 the purpose of killing deer as they cross rivers and narrow 
 lakes. Upon the whole, their vessels, though formed of 
 the same materials as those of the Southern Indians, are 
 much smaller and lighter; and, from the extreme simpli- 
 city of build, are the best that could be contrived for the 
 necessities of these poor savages, who are frequently obliged 
 to carry them upon their back a hundred and sometimes one 
 hundred and fifty miles, without having occasion to launch 
 them. 
 
 At Clowey the expedition was joined by nearly two 
 hundred Indians from various quarters, most of whom 
 
1772.] JOINED BY MANY INDIANS. 125 
 
 built canoes there ; and on the 23d May, Mr. Hearne and 
 Matonabbee, whose character and consequence effectually 
 protected the white man from plunder, proceeded north- 
 ward. For some time they met with no distresses, except 
 those occasioned by the intense cold, which had been pre- 
 ceded by thunder-storms and torrents of rain. Misfortune, 
 however, now attacked Matonabbee on the tender side of 
 his eight wives, the handsomest of whom eloped in the 
 night, accompanied by another woman. Both having been 
 carried off by force, it was suspected they had fled to the 
 eastward, with the plan of rejoining their former husbands. 
 Scarce had the savage polygamist recovered from this blow, 
 when he experienced a fresh mortification : An Indian of 
 great strength, from whom Matonabbee a short time before 
 had purchased a stout, and therefore valuable wife, insisted 
 on taking her back, unless he instantly surrendered a cer- 
 tain quantity of ammunition, a kettle, some pieces of iron, 
 and other articles. The hardship of this case arose from 
 an extraordinary custom, by which the men are permitted 
 to wrestle for any woman to whom they are attached, the 
 victorious party carrying off the prize. It is for this reason 
 that the greatest emulation prevails in all athletic exercises 
 among the young Indians ; and the children are perpetually 
 seen trying their powers in wrestling, under the idea that 
 this is the education which will chiefly benefit them when 
 they grow up. A weak man seldom long retains a wife 
 whose services another wants ; for when the help-mates of 
 an able-bodied savage are too heavily laden with furs or 
 provisions, he makes no scruple of seizing the spouse of his 
 weaker neighbour, and transferring part of the burden to 
 her back; whilst, if the injured party cannot challenge the 
 aggressor to a wrestling-match, he must not otherwise com- 
 plain. The distress, therefore, of Matonabbee upon this 
 occasion may be easily accounted for, as he was wounded 
 
126 matonabbee's pbide. [1772. 
 
 in his pride and in his property, if not in his affections. 
 But a personal contest was out of the question, and he was 
 obliged to purchase his favourite over again, by yielding 
 up all that was demanded by his antagonist. This affair 
 had nearly proved a serious obstacle to the expedition; for 
 so bitterly did the chief resent the affront, entertaining the 
 highest ideas of his personal consequence, that he had re- 
 solved, like a Coriolanus of the New World, to renounce all 
 farther alliance with his countrymen, and join the Athabasca 
 Indians, among whom he had formerly resided. But 
 Hearne strenuously opposed this project, and at last suc- 
 ceeded in dissuading him from it* 
 
 Having agreed to proceed, Matonabbee, for the better 
 prosecution of the enterprise, determined to make some new 
 arrangements : He selected his two youngest wives, who 
 were unencumbered with children, as alone worthy to ac- 
 company him, whilst the remainder, with all their luggage 
 and a considerable number of the men, were commanded 
 to await the return of the party from the Coppermine 
 River. This change of plan, however, was not carried 
 through without difficulty. When the hour of separation 
 came, and Matonabbee and Hearne set out in the evening 
 of 31st May, a low murmur of lamentation proceeded from 
 the tents of the women who were left behind, which, run- 
 ning through all the notes of increasing grief, at last burst 
 into a loud yell. This continued as long as the party were 
 in sight ; nor was it without much angry expostulation that 
 some of them were prevented from following their husbands. 
 The Indians, however, regarded all this, which deeply 
 affected their European associate, with indifference, walking 
 forward without casting behind them a single look or word 
 of sympathy, and joyfully congratulating themselves on 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, pp. Ill, 112. 
 
1772.] THE PARTY CROSS THE ARCTIC CIRCLE. 127 
 
 getting rid of the women, dogs, children, and other encum- 
 brances, which added so greatly to the toil of the journey. 
 One article they all carried, although to Hearne it appeared 
 unnecessary, considering the expedition to be pacific : this 
 was a target of thin boards two feet broad, and about three 
 feet long. On inquiring for what purpose these shields 
 were to be used, he discovered that the main consideration 
 which reconciled the Indians to this expedition was the 
 hope of attacking and murdering the Esquimaux who fre- 
 quented the Coppermine River, between whom and the 
 other Indian tribes there had long existed a deadly enmity. 
 All the arguments employed by Hearne were insufficient 
 to dissuade them from these hostile intentions. 
 
 The party having crossed the Arctic circle, arrived at 
 Cogead Lake, which they found frozen over ; so that they 
 traversed its creeks and bays without the aid of their 
 canoes. Thence they directed their course due north, till 
 they met with a branch of the Congecathawhachaga River, 
 where some Copper Indians received them with great kind- 
 ness, and readily sent all their canoes to their assistance 
 — a piece of courtesy particularly seasonable, as the ice had 
 now broken up. To these Indians Hearne explained the 
 object of his journey, and his guide being personally known 
 to them, they treated the party, which consisted of one 
 hundred and fifty persons, with distinguished honour. A 
 feast was given, the English traveller smoked with them 
 his calumet of peace, and their chiefs expressed the greatest 
 anxiety that a European settlement should be established 
 in the neighbourhood of the Coppermine River. They 
 acknowledged they had never found the sea at the mouth 
 of the river free from ice; but with singular simplicity 
 seemed to consider this a very trifling objection, observing 
 that the water was always so smooth between the ice and 
 the shore that even small boats could sail there with great 
 
128 VARIATIONS IN THE CLIMATE. [1772. 
 
 ease; and inferring that what a canoe could do, a large 
 ship must be sure to accomplish. As Hearne was the first 
 white man they had seen, he was surrounded by numbers, 
 who examined him with the utmost minuteness. The re- 
 sult, however, was satisfactory ; for they at last pronounced 
 him to be a perfect human being, except in the colour of 
 his hair and eyes. The first, they insisted, was like the 
 stained hair of a buffalo's tail, and the last, being light, 
 were compared to those of a gull. The whiteness of his 
 skin, also, was a circumstance on which they demurred a 
 little, observing that it looked like meat which had been 
 sodden in water till all the blood was extracted. He con- 
 tinued, however, to be viewed with a mixture of curiosity 
 and admiration, and at his toilet was generally attended 
 by a body of the Indians, who, when he used his comb, 
 asked for the hairs which came off. These they carefully 
 wrapped up, saying, " When I see you again, you shall 
 again see your hair."* 
 
 On reaching Congecathawhachaga, in latitude 68° 46 
 north, Matonabbee deemed it expedient to leave all the 
 women, taking the precaution to kill as many deer as were 
 necessary for their support during his absence. The flesh 
 was cut into thin slices and dried in the sun — a frequent 
 mode of preserving it in these high northern latitudes, by 
 which it is kept palatable and nourishing for a twelve- 
 month. Having completed these arrangements, the party 
 resumed their journey on the 1st of July, proceeding 
 amidst dreadful storms of snow, and occasional torrents of 
 rain, which drenched them to the skin, through a barren 
 and desolate country, where it was impossible with the 
 wet moss and green brushwood to kindle a fire. Compelled 
 to take shelter in caves at night — for they had no tents — 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 122. 
 
1789.] WILD-FOWL THE BALD-EAGLE. 145 
 
 was every appearance that the ice would detain the expe- 
 dition for a considerable time ; and it was thought neces- 
 sary to pitch their tents. The nets were now set ; the 
 Indians went off in different directions to hunt ; the women 
 gathered berries of various sorts, which abounded in the 
 neighbouring woods; and their larder was soon supplied 
 with plenty of geese, ducks, and beaver, excellent trout, 
 carp, and white fish, and some dozens of swan and duck 
 eggs, which were picked up in an adjacent island. Their 
 stay, therefore, was far from unpleasant, combining the 
 novelty of a residence in a strange country with the excita- 
 tion and variety of a hunter's life ; and on the 15th, after 
 a rest of six days, as the ice had given way a little, they 
 resumed their journey. 
 
 Numerous flocks of birds of all kinds flew around them 
 and filled the air with their wild plaintive cries ; while, far 
 away, perched on a dead tree, might be seen here and there 
 a solitary owl or an eagle, watching for prey. A large 
 and very impudent bird of this kind which inhabits the 
 American wilderness is the bald-eagle. Fish is its favourite 
 food, and the way in which it obtains it is curious and 
 interesting. " Elevated," says Wilson, " on the high dead 
 limb of some gigantic tree that commands a wide view of 
 the neighbouring shore and ocean, he seems calmly to con- 
 template the motions of the various feathered tribes that 
 pursue their busy avocations below. The snow-white gulls, 
 slowly winnowing the air; the busy tringce, coursing along 
 the sands; trains of ducks, streaming over the surface; 
 silent and watchful cranes, intent and wading; clamorous 
 crows, and all the winged multitudes that subsist by the 
 bounty of this vast liquid magazine of nature; — high over 
 all these hovers one whose action instantly arrests all his 
 attention. By his wide curvature of wing, and sudden 
 suspension in the air, he knows him to be the fish- hawk, 
 
 K 
 
146 RED-KNIFE INDIANS. [1789. 
 
 settling over some devoted victim of the deep. His eye 
 kindles at the sight, and balancing himself, with half- 
 opened wings, on the branch, he watches the result. 
 Down, rapid as an arrow from heaven, descends the object 
 of his attention; the roar of its wings reaching the ear as 
 it disappears in the deep, making the surges foam around! 
 At this moment the eager looks of the eagle are all ardour, 
 and levelling his neck for flight, he sees the fish-hawk once 
 more emerge, struggling with his prey, and mounting in 
 the air with screams of exultation. These are the signal 
 for our hero, who, launching into the air, instantly gives 
 chase, and soon gains on the fish- hawk; each exerts his 
 utmost to mount above the other, displaying in these ren- 
 contres the most sublime aerial evolutions. The unencum- 
 bered eagle rapidly advances, and is just on the point of 
 reaching his opponent, when, with a sudden scream, pro- 
 bably of despair and honest execration, the latter drops his 
 fish; the eagle, poising himself for a moment, as if to take 
 a more certain aim, descends like a whirlwind, snatches it 
 in his grasp ere it reaches the water, and bears his ill- 
 gotten booty silently away to the woods."* 
 
 Since leaving Athabasca, the twilight had been so bright, 
 owing to the short disappearance of the sun below the hori- 
 zon, that even at midnight not a star was to be seen ; but as 
 they glided along the lake they were greeted by the moon, 
 which rose beautifully above the woods, with her lower 
 horn in a state of eclipse. The obscuration continued for 
 about six minutes in a cloudless sky.-j- Coasting along the 
 shore, they came to a lodge of Red Knife Indians, so 
 denominated from their using copper knives. One of these 
 men engaged to conduct them to the mouth of the river, 
 which was the object of their search; but such were the 
 
 * American Ornithology, vol. i. p. 23. 
 f Mackenzie's Travels, p. 11. 
 
1789.] MACKENZIE RIVER. 147 
 
 impediments encountered from drift-ice, contrary winds, 
 and the ignorance of the guide, whom the English Chief 
 threatened to murder for engaging in a service for which he 
 was unfit, that it was the 29 th of the month before they 
 embarked upon the river since known by the name of the 
 traveller who now first ascended it. On leaving the lake, 
 the Mackenzie River was found to run to the westward, 
 becoming gradually narrower for twenty-four miles, till it 
 diminished into a stream not more than half a mile wide, 
 with a strong current, and a depth of three and a half 
 fathoms. A stiff breeze from the eastward now drove them 
 on at a great rate, and after a rapid run of ten miles, the 
 channel gradually widened till it assumed the appearance 
 of a small lake, which proved to be the utmost limit known 
 to their guide. They now came in sight of the chain of 
 the Horn Mountains, bearing north-west, and had some 
 difficulty in recovering the channel of the river. 
 
 Having resumed their course on 1st July, they met 
 with no interruption for five days, when they observed 
 several smokes on the northern bank. On landing they 
 discovered an encampment of five families of Slave and 
 Dog- ribbed Indians, who, on the first appearance of the 
 party, fled into the woods in consternation. The entreaties 
 of the English Chief, whose language they understood, at 
 length dissipated their apprehensions; and the distribution 
 of a few beads, rings, and knives, with a supply of grog, 
 reconciled them entirely to the strangers. Their account 
 of the difficulties in the farther navigation of the river was 
 not a little appalling. They asserted that it would require 
 several winters to reach the sea, and that old age would 
 inevitably overtake the party before their return. Monsters 
 of horrid shapes and malignant disposition were represented 
 as having their abodes in the rocky caves on the banks, 
 ready to devour the presumptuous traveller who approached; 
 
148 SLAVE AND DOG-RIBBED INDIANS. [1789. 
 
 and the more substantial impediment of two impassable 
 falls was said to exist about thirty days' march from 
 where they then were. 
 
 Though such tales were treated with contempt by Mac- 
 kenzie, the Indians, already tired of the voyage, drank 
 them in with willing ears, and they could scarcely be per- 
 suaded to pursue their journey. On consenting to proceed, 
 one of the Dog-ribbed Indians was induced, by the present 
 of a kettle, an axe, and some other articles, to accompany 
 them as a guide; but when the time of embarkation 
 arrived, his love of home came upon him with such violence, 
 that he used every artifice to escape from his agreement, 
 and at last was actually forced on board. Previous to his 
 departure, a singular ceremony took place: with great 
 solemnity he cut off a lock of his hair, and dividing it into 
 three parts, fastened one to the upper part of his wife's 
 head, blowing on it thrice with the utmost violence, and 
 uttering certain words as a charm. The other two locks 
 he fixed with the same ceremonies to the heads of his two 
 children. These Indians were in general a meagre, ugly, 
 and ill-favoured race, particularly ill- made in the legs. 
 Some of them wore their hair very long, others allowed a 
 tress to fall behind, cutting the rest short round their ears. 
 A few old men had beards, whilst the young and middle- 
 aged appeared to have pulled out every hair on their chin. 
 Each cheek was adorned by two double lines tattooed from 
 the ear to the nose, of which the gristle was perforated so 
 as to admit a goose- quill or a small piece of wood. Their 
 clothing consisted of dressed deer-skins. For winter wear 
 these were prepared with the fur, and the shirts made of 
 them decorated with a neat embroidery, composed of porcu- 
 pine-quills and the hair of the moose-deer, coloured red, 
 black, yellow, or white. Their shirts reached to the 
 mid-thigh, whilst their upper garments covered the whole 
 
1789.] EFFECT OF ELOQUENCE ON BRUIN. 149 
 
 body, having a fringe round the bottom. Their leggins, 
 which were embroidered round the ankle and sewed to their 
 shoes, reached to mid-thigh. The dress of the women 
 was nearly the same as that of the men. They wore gor- 
 gets of horn or wood, and had bracelets of the same mate- 
 rials. On their head was placed a fillet or bandeau, formed 
 of strips of leather, embroidered richly with porcupine- 
 quills, and stuck round with bears' claws or talons of wild 
 fowl. Their belts and garters were neatly constructed of 
 the sinews of wild animals and porcupine- quills. From 
 these belts descended a long fringe composed of strings of 
 leather, and worked round with hair of various colours, and 
 their mittens hung from their neck in a position convenient 
 for the reception of their hands.* Their arms and weapons 
 for the chase were bows and arrows, spears, daggers, and a 
 large club formed of the rein- deer horn, called a pogamagan. 
 The bows were about five or six feet long, with strings of 
 sinews; and flint, iron, or copper, supplied barbs to the 
 arrows. Their spears, nearly six feet long, were pointed 
 with bone, whilst their stone- axes were fastened with cords 
 of green skin to a wooden handle. Their canoes were 
 light, and so small as to carry only one person. 
 
 Some of the men wore collars made of the claws of the 
 barren-ground bear, an ornament much coveted and gloried 
 in by them, as being incontestible proof of their courage 
 and prowess in slaying an animal of which Indians gene- 
 rally are exceedingly afraid. It is narrated, that as Kes- 
 karrah, an old Indian, was one day seated at the door of 
 his tent near Fort Enterprise, a large bear suddenly made 
 its appearance on the opposite bank of a small stream, and 
 remained stationary for some time, curiously eyeing the 
 old gentleman, and apparently deliberating whether to eat 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 35-37. 
 
150 GREAT BEAR LAKE RIVER. [1789. 
 
 him up at that moment or wait till supper- time. Keskar- 
 rah, thinking himself in great jeopardy, and having no one 
 to assist him but a wife as old as himself, immediately gave 
 utterance to the following oration : — " Oh, bear ! I never 
 did you any harm ; I have always had the highest respect 
 for you and your relations, and never killed any of them 
 except through necessity : go away, good bear, and let me 
 alone, and I promise not to molest you." Bruin instantly 
 took his departure ; and the orator, never doubting that he 
 owed his safety to his eloquence, on his arrival at the fort 
 frequently favoured the company with his speech at full 
 length. In the stomach of one of these animals which 
 Dr. Richardson dissected, he found the remains of a seal, a 
 marmot, a large quantity of the long sweet roots of some 
 Astragali and Hedysara, with some wild berries and a 
 little grass. 
 
 On 5th July the party re- embarked. Continuing their 
 course west- south-west, they passed the Great Bear Lake 
 River ; and steering through numerous islands, came in 
 sight of a ridge of snowy mountains, frequented, according 
 to their guide, by herds of bears and small white buffaloes. 
 The banks of the river appeared to be pretty thickly peo- 
 pled ; and though at first the natives uniformly attempted 
 to escape, the offer of presents generally brought them 
 back, and procured a seasonable supply of hares, partridges, 
 fish, or rein-deer. The same stories of spirits or manitous 
 which haunted the stream, and of fearful rapids that would 
 dash the canoes to pieces, were repeated by these tribes ; 
 and the guide, upon whom such representations had a power- 
 ful effect, decamped in the night during a storm of thunder 
 and lightning. His place, however, was soon supplied; 
 and, after a short sail, they approached an encampment of 
 Indians, whose brawny figures, healthy appearance, and 
 great cleanliness, showed them to be a superior race to 
 
1789.] QUARRELLER INDIANS. 151 
 
 those lately passed. From them Mackenzie learnt that he 
 must sleep ten nights before arriving at the sea, and in 
 three nights would meet the Esquimaux, with whom they 
 had been formerly at war, but were now in a state of peace. 
 One of these people, whose language was most intelligible 
 to the interpreter, agreed to accompany the party, but be- 
 came dreadfully alarmed when some of the men discharged 
 their fowling-pieces. It was evident none of this race had 
 ever heard the report of fire-arms. To reconcile him to 
 his departure, his two brothers followed in their canoes, 
 and diverted him with native songs, and other airs said to 
 be imitations of those of the Esquimaux. The triumph of 
 music was never more strikingly exhibited; from deep 
 dejection the Indian at once passed into a state of the 
 highest and most ludicrous excitement, keeping time to the 
 songs by a variety of grotesque gesticulations, performed 
 with such unceasing rapidity, and so little regard to the 
 slenderness of the bark, which quivered under his weight, 
 that they expected every moment to see it upset. In one 
 of his paroxysms, shooting his canoe alongside of Mac- 
 kenzie's, he leaped into it, and commenced an Esquimaux 
 dance. At last he was restored to some degree of com- 
 posure, which became complete on their passing a hill, where 
 he informed them that three winters ago the Esquimaux 
 had slain his grandfather.* 
 
 Mackenzie soon after reached the tents of a tribe named 
 Deguthee-Dinees, or Quarrellers, who justified their name 
 by the menacing gestures with which they received the 
 strangers' approach. A few presents, however, reconciled 
 them to the intrusion ; and they communicated the gratify- 
 ing intelligence that the distance overland to the sea, either 
 by an easterly or westerly route, was inconsiderable. The 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 51. 
 
152 ESQUIMAUX HOUSES. [1789. 
 
 party now pushed on with renewed hopes ; and the river 
 soon after separating into several streams, they chose the 
 middle and largest, which ran north. This shortly brought 
 in sight a range of snowy mountains, stretching far to the 
 northward ; and, by an observation, Mackenzie found the 
 latitude to be 67° 47', which convinced him that the waters 
 on which their frail barks were then gliding must flow 
 into the great Hyperborean Ocean.* At this moment, 
 when within a few days of accomplishing the great object 
 of their journey, the Indians sunk into a fit of despondency, 
 and hesitated to proceed. The guide pleaded his ignorance 
 of the country, as he had never before penetrated to the 
 shores of the Benahulla Toe, or White Man's Lake. Mac- 
 kenzie assured them he would return if they did not reach 
 it in seven days, and prevailed on them to continue their 
 course. 
 
 It was now the 11th of July, and the sun at midnight 
 was still considerably above the horizon, whilst every- 
 thing denoted the proximity of the sea. On landing at a 
 deserted encampment, still marked by the ashes of some 
 Esquimaux fires, they observed several pieces of whale- 
 bone, and a place where train-oil had been spilt. Soon 
 after they came to three houses recently left by the natives. 
 The ground-plot of these habitations was oval, about fifteen 
 feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at 
 either end; the whole was dug about twelve inches below 
 the surface, one-half being covered with willow-branches, 
 and probably forming the bed of the whole family. In the 
 middle of the other half, a space four feet wide, which had 
 been hollowed to the depth of twelve inches, was the only 
 spot where a grown person could stand upright. One side 
 of it was covered with willow-branches, and the other 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 54. 
 
1789.] DISAPPEARANCE OF VEGETATION. 153 
 
 formed the hearth. The door, in one end of the house, 
 was about two feet and a half high by two feet wide, and 
 was reached through a covered way about five feet long; 
 so that the only access to this curious dwelling was by 
 creeping on all fours. On the top was an orifice about 
 eighteen inches square, which served the triple purpose of 
 a window, a chimney, and an occasional door. The under 
 ground part of the floor was lined with split wood, whilst 
 cross pieces of timber, laid on six or eight upright stakes, 
 supported an oblong square roof ; the whole being formed 
 of drift-wood, and covered with branches and dry grass, 
 over which was spread earth a foot thick. On either side 
 of these houses were a few square holes, about two feet deep, 
 covered with split wood and earth, excepting one small 
 place in the middle, which appeared to be contrived for the 
 preservation of the winter stock of provisions. In and 
 about the houses lay sledge-runners, and bones, pieces of 
 whalebone, and poplar-bark cut in circles, used evidently 
 to buoy the nets ; and before each habitation a great num- 
 ber of stumps of trees were driven into the ground, upon 
 which its late possessors had probably hung their nets and 
 fish to dry in the sun. 
 
 The signs of vegetation were by this time scarcely per- 
 ceptible; the trees had dwindled into a few dwarf willows, 
 not more than three feet high; and though the foot-marks 
 on the sandy beach of some of the islands showed that the 
 natives had recently been there, all attempts to obtain a 
 sight of them proved unavailing. The discontent of the 
 guide and of the Indian hunters was now renewed; but 
 their assertion that on the morrow they were to reach a 
 large lake in which the Esquimaux killed a huge fish, and 
 whose shores were inhabited by white bears, convinced 
 Mackenzie that this description referred to the Arctic Sea, 
 with its mighty denizen, the whale. He accordingly pressed 
 
154 MACKENZIE REACHES THE ARCTIC SEA. [1789. 
 
 forward with fresh ardour, and the canoes were soon car- 
 ried hy the current to the entrance of the lake, which, from 
 all the accompanying circumstances, appears to have been 
 an arm of the Arctic Ocean. It was quite open to the 
 westward, and by an observation the latitude was found 
 to be 69°. From the spot where this survey was taken, 
 they now continued their course to the westernmost point 
 of a high island, which they reached after a run of fifteen 
 miles, and around it the utmost depth of water was only 
 five feet. The lake appeared to be covered with ice for 
 about two leagues' distance, no land was seen ahead, and 
 it was found impossible to proceed farther. Happily, when 
 they had thus reached the farthest point of their progress 
 northward, and were about to return in great disappoint- 
 ment, two circumstances occurred which rendered it certain 
 that they had penetrated to the sea: The first was the 
 appearance of many large floating substances in the water, 
 believed at first to be masses of ice, which, on being ap- 
 proached, turned out to be whales; and the second, the 
 rise and fall of the tide, observed both at the eastern and 
 western end of the island, which they named Whale 
 Island.* Having, in company with the English Chief, 
 ascended to its highest ground, Mackenzie saw the solid 
 ice extending to the eastward; and to the west, as far as 
 the eye could reach, they dimly discerned a chain of moun- 
 tains apparently about twenty leagues' distance, stretching 
 to the northward. Many islands were seen to the eastward ; 
 but though they came to a grave, on which lay a bow, a 
 paddle, and a spear, they met no living human beings in 
 these arctic solitudes. The red-fox and the rein-deer, flocks 
 of beautiful plovers, some venerable white owls, and seve- 
 ral large white gulls, were the only natives. Previous to 
 
 * Mackenzie, pp. 64, G/5. 
 
1789.] Mackenzie's return. 155 
 
 setting out on their return, a post was erected close to the 
 tents, upon which the traveller engraved the latitude of 
 the place, his own name, the number of persons by whom he 
 was accompanied, and the time they had spent on the island. 
 It was now the 1 6th of July, and they re- embarked on 
 their homeward voyage. On the 21st the sun, which for 
 some time had never set, descended below the horizon, and 
 the same day eleven of the natives joined them. They re- 
 presented their tribe as numerous, and perpetually at war 
 with the Esquimaux, who had broken a treaty into which 
 they had inveigled the Indians, and butchered many of 
 them. Occasionally a strong body ascended the river in 
 large canoes, in search of flints to point their spears and 
 arrows. At present they were on the banks of a lake to the 
 eastward, hunting rein-deer, and would soon begin to catch 
 big fish (whales) for their winter stock. They had been 
 informed that the same Esquimaux, eight or ten winters 
 ago, saw to the westward, on White Man's Lake, several 
 large canoes full of white men, who gave iron in exchange 
 for leather. On landing at a lodge of natives farther down 
 the river, the English Chief obtained some other particulars 
 from a Dog-ribbed Indian, who had been driven by some 
 private quarrel from his own nation, and lived among the 
 Hare Indians. According to his information, there was a 
 much larger river to the south-west of the mountains, 
 which fell into White Man's Lake. The people on its 
 banks were a gigantic and wicked race, who could kill 
 common men with their eyes, and sailed in huge canoes. 
 There was, he added, no known communication by water 
 with this great river; but those who had seen it went over 
 the mountains, and it flowed towards the mid-day sun. 
 This description proceeded, he acknowledged, not from 
 personal observation, but was taken from the report of 
 others who inhabited the opposite mountains. Mackenzie 
 
156 NEW TRIBE OF INDIANS. [1789. 
 
 having fallen in with one of these strangers, by a bribe of 
 some beads prevailed upon him to delineate the circum- 
 jacent country and the course of the unknown river upon 
 the sand. The map proved a very rude production. He 
 traced out a long point of land between the rivers without 
 paying the least attention to the courses. This isthmus 
 he represented as running into the great lake, at the extre- 
 mity of which, as he had been told by Indians of other 
 nations, fhere was built a Benahulla Couin, or White 
 Man's Fort. " This," says Mackenzie, " I took to be 
 Oonalaska Fort, and consequently the river to the west to 
 be Cook's River, and that the body of water or sea into 
 which the river discharges itself at Whale Island communi- 
 cated with Norton Sound." 
 
 Mackenzie now endeavoured to procure a guide across 
 the mountains, but the natives steadily refused ; and any 
 additional intelligence which they communicated regarding 
 the country only consisted of legends concerning the super- 
 natural power and ferocity of its inhabitants. They were 
 represented as a sort of monsters with wings, who fed on 
 huge birds which, though killed by them with ease, no 
 other mortal would venture to assail. Having gravely 
 stated this, they began, both young and old, to jump and 
 dance with astonishing violence and perseverance, imitating 
 the cries of the rein-deer, bear, and wolf, in the hope of 
 intimidating Mackenzie ; but when he threatened with an 
 angry aspect to force one of them along with him across 
 the mountains, a sudden fit of sickness seized the whole 
 party, and in a faint tone, which formed a ludicrous con- 
 trast to their former vociferation, they declared they would 
 expire the instant they were taken from their homes. In 
 the end, the traveller was compelled to leave them without 
 accomplishing his object.* 
 
 * Mackenzie, p. 87. 
 
1789.] THE HORNED OWL. 157 
 
 On 1st August, as the expedition approached the River 
 of the Bear Lake, the stars, which hitherto, from the 
 extreme clearness of the twilight, had continued invisible, 
 began to twinkle in the sky, and the air from being oppres- 
 sively sultry became so cold, that perpetual exercise could 
 scarcely keep the men warm. At nights they lay shiver- 
 ing and wakeful, looking up into the cold sky, or dreamily 
 listening to the solemn cry of the horned- owl. This ill- 
 omened bird of darkness seldom fails to serenade the arctic 
 traveller during the silent hours of night. " Its loud noctur- 
 nal cries," says Dr. Richardson, "issuing from the gloomiest 
 recesses of the forest, are said to bear a resemblance to a 
 hollow and sepulchral human voice, and have thus been 
 the frequent source of alarm to the benighted traveller. 
 A party of Scottish Highlanders, in the service of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, happened in a winter journey to 
 encamp after nightfall in a dense clump of trees, the dark 
 tops of which, and their lofty stems, gave a solemnity to 
 the scene, strongly excitable of superstitious feelings. The 
 solemn effect was heightened by the discovery of a tomb, 
 which, with a natural taste not unfrequently exhibited by 
 the Indians, was placed in the centre of this secluded spot. 
 The travellers had finished their evening repast, and were 
 trimming their fire for the night, when for the first time the 
 slow and dismal tones of the horned- owl fell on their ear. 
 They at once concluded that a voice so mysterious and 
 unearthly must be the moaning spirit of the departed, whose 
 hallowed fane they had disturbed by inadvertently making 
 a fire of the timber of his tomb. They consequently passed 
 a long night of sleepless fear, and gladly quitted the ill- 
 omened spot with the earliest dawn." The women were now 
 constantly employed in making shoes of moose- skin, as a 
 pair did not last more than a day, whilst the hunters 
 brought in supplies of geese, rein-deer, and beaver ; and on 
 
158 MACKENZIE CONCLUDES HIS FIRST JOURNEY. [1792. 
 
 one occasion a wolf was killed, roasted, and eaten with 
 great satisfaction. On 22d August they reached the 
 entrance of the Slave Lake, after which their progress 
 homeward presented no feature of interest, and on 12th 
 September they arrived in safety at Fort Chepewyan, after 
 an absence of one hundred and two days. The importance 
 of this journey must be apparent, on considering it in con- 
 nection with the expedition of Hearne. Both travellers had 
 succeeded in reaching the shores of an arctic sea ; and it 
 became not only an established fact that there was an ocean 
 of great extent in the north of America, but it was rendered 
 extremely probable that this sea formed its continuous 
 boundary. 
 
 Mackenzie concluded his first journey in September 1789, 
 and about three years afterwards undertook a second expe- 
 dition, which proved still more difficult and hazardous, and 
 equally important and satisfactory in its results. His object 
 was to ascend the Peace River, which rises in the Rocky 
 Mountains, and crossing these, to penetrate to that unknown 
 river which in his former journey had been the subject of 
 his unwearied inquiry. This he conjectured must com- 
 municate with the sea ; and, pursuing its course, he hoped 
 to reach the shores of the Pacific. Setting out accordingly 
 on 10th October 1792, he pushed on to the remotest Euro- 
 pean settlement, where he spent the winter in a traffic 
 for furs with the Beaver and Rocky Indians. Having 
 despatched six canoes to Fort Chepewyan with the cargo 
 he had collected, he engaged hunters and interpreters, and 
 launched the canoe in which he had determined to prose- 
 cute his discoveries. Her dimensions were twenty-five 
 feet long within, exclusive of the curves of stem and stern, 
 twenty- six inches hold, and four feet nine inches beam. 
 She was at the same time so light, that two men could 
 carry her three or four miles without resting. In this 
 
1792.] Mackenzie's second journey. 159 
 
 slender vessel they not only stowed away their provisions, 
 presents, arms, ammunition, and baggage, to the weight of 
 three thousand pounds, but found room for seven Europeans, 
 two Indians, and the leader himself. On embarking, the 
 winter interpreter left in charge of the fort eould not refrain 
 from tears when he anticipated the dangers they were about 
 to encounter, whilst they themselves fervently offered up 
 their prayers to Almighty God for a safe return. 
 
 The commencement of their voyage was propitious ; and 
 under a serene sky, with a keen but healthy air, the bark 
 glided through some beautiful scenery. On the west side 
 of the river the ground rose in a gently- ascending lawn, 
 broken at intervals by abrupt precipices, and extending in 
 a rich woodland perspective as far as the eye could reach. 
 This magnificent amphitheatre presented groves of poplar 
 in every direction, whose openings were enlivened with 
 herds of elks and buffaloes ; the former choosing the steeps 
 and uplands, the latter preferring the plains. At this time 
 the buffaloes were attended by their young ones, which 
 frisked about, whilst the female elks were great with young. 
 The whole country displayed an exuberant verdure; the 
 trees which bore blossoms were rapidly bursting into flower, 
 and the soft velvet rind of the branches reflected the oblique 
 rays of a rising or a setting sun, imparting a cheerfulness 
 and brilliancy to the scene, which gladdened the heart with 
 the buoyant influences of the season.* "The transition," 
 says Dr. Richardson, " is so sudden from the perfect repose, 
 the deathlike silence of an Arctic winter, to the animated 
 bustle of summer j the trees spread their foliage with such 
 magical rapidity, and every succeeding morning opens with 
 such agreeable accessions of feathered songsters to swell 
 the chorus — their plumage as gay and unimpaired as when 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, pp. 154, 155. 
 
160 GRIZZLY BEARS. [1793. 
 
 they enlivened the deep green forests of tropical climes — 
 that the return of a northern spring excites in the mind a 
 deep feeling of the beauties of the season, a sense of the 
 bounty and providence of the Supreme Being, which is 
 cheaply purchased by the tedium of nine months of winter. 
 The most verdant lawns and cultivated glades of Europe, 
 the most beautiful productions of art, fail in producing that 
 exhilaration and joyous buoyancy of mind which we have 
 experienced in treading the wilds of Arctic America, when 
 their snowy covering has been just replaced by an infant 
 but vigorous vegetation. It is impossible for the traveller 
 to refrain, at such moments, from joining his aspirations to 
 the song which every creature around is pouring forth to 
 the Great Creator." After a few days the air became 
 colder, the country more desolate, and the weather was 
 occasionally broken by storms of thunder and lightning. 
 The track of a large grizzly bear was discerned on the banks. 
 The Indians treat this monster of the woods with con- 
 siderably more respect than they do most other animals, 
 owing to his great ferocity, and the readiness with which 
 he resents an insult, or accepts a challenge. An amusing 
 adventure occurred to Catlin one morning after he had 
 passed the night on the banks of the Missouri. " In the 
 morning," says he, " before sunrise, as usual, Bogard (who 
 was a Yankee, and a wide-awake fellow, just retiring from 
 a ten years' siege of hunting and trapping in the Rocky 
 Mountains) thrust his head out from under the robe, rubbed 
 his eyes open, and exclaimed as he grasped for his gun, 
 1 By darn, look at old Cale, will you I ' Ba'tiste, who 
 was fonder of his dreams, snored away, muttering some- 
 thing that I could not understand, when Bogard seized him 
 with a grip that instantly shook off his iron slumbers. I 
 rose at the same time, and all eyes were turned at once 
 upon Caleb (as the grizzly bear is familiarly called by the 
 
1772.] INDIAN COOKERY. 129 
 
 obliged to eat their meat raw, with the enjoyment of no 
 higher luxury than a pipe, they yet pushed forward with 
 unshaken perseverance, and, after a week of great suffer- 
 ing, had the comfort to observe a complete change in the 
 weather, which first became moderate, and soon after so 
 sultry that it was sometimes impossible to move at all. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 13th July, the expedition 
 crossed a long chain of hills, from the top of which they 
 discerned a branch that joins the Coppermine, about forty 
 miles from its influx into the sea. Here the Indians killed 
 a few fine buck-deer, procured some excellent firewood, 
 and, as it was not certain that so favourable an opportunity 
 would soon occur again, they sat down with appetites 
 sharpened by long privation, spirits raised by the recollec- 
 tion of hardships overcome, and the almost certain prospect 
 of ere long accomplishing the great object of their expedi- 
 tion, to the most cheerful and comfortable meal they had 
 enjoyed for a long period. The reader will be amused 
 with Hearne's description of this delicious repast, and of 
 the mysteries of Indian cookery : — " As such favourable 
 opportunities of indulging the appetite," says he, " happen 
 but seldom, it is a general rule with the Indians, which we 
 did not neglect, to exert every art in dressing their food 
 which the most refined skill in Indian cooking has been 
 able to invent, and which consists chiefly in boiling, broil- 
 ing, and roasting ; but of all the dishes cooked by these 
 people, a becatee, as it is called in their language, is cer- 
 tainly the most delicious (at least for a change) which can 
 be prepared from a deer only, without any other ingredient. 
 It is a kind of Scotch ' haggis,' made with the blood, a 
 good quantity of fat shred small, some of the tenderest of 
 the flesh, together with the heart and lungs, cut, or more 
 commonly torn, into small shivers — all which is put into 
 the stomach and roasted, by being suspended over the fire 
 I 
 
130 THE COPPERMINE RIVER. [1772. 
 
 by a string. Care must be taken that it does not get too 
 much heat at first, as the bag would thereby be liable to 
 be burnt, and the contents let out. When it is sufficiently 
 done, it will emit a rich steam, in the same manner as a 
 fowl or a joint of meat, which is as much as to say, * Come, 
 eat me now !' and if it be taken in time, before the blood 
 or the contents are too much done, it is certainly a most 
 delicious morsel, even without pepper, salt, or any other 
 seasoning.' 7 * 
 
 Having regaled themselves in this sumptuous manner, 
 and taken a few hours' rest, they once more set out, and, 
 after a walk of nine or ten miles, at last arrived at the 
 Coppermine. Scarcely had Hearne congratulated himself 
 on reaching the great object of his mission, unpacked his 
 surveying instruments, and prepared to follow its progress 
 to the great Arctic Ocean, when one of those dark and 
 terrible scenes occurred which are so strikingly character- 
 istic of savage life. As soon as Matonabbee and his party 
 gained the banks of the river, three spies were sent out to 
 discover whether any Esquimaux were in the neighbour- 
 hood. After a short absence, they returned with intelli- 
 gence that they had seen five tents, about twelve miles 
 distant, on the west side of the river. All was now warlike 
 preparation : the guns, knives, and spears, were carefully 
 examined; and as they learned that the nature of the ground 
 would render it easy to advance unperceived, it was deter- 
 mined to steal upon their victims in this manner, and put 
 them to death. This plan was executed with the most 
 savage exactness ; and nothing could present a more dread- 
 ful view of human nature in its unenlightened state, than 
 the perfect unanimity of purpose which pervaded the whole 
 body of Indians upon this horrid occasion, although at 
 other times they were in no respect amenable to discipline. 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 144. 
 
1772.] ATTACK ON THE ESQUIMAUX. 131 
 
 Each man first painted his target, some with a represen- 
 tation of the sun, others of the moon, and several with the 
 pictures of beasts and birds of prey, or of imaginary beings, 
 which they affirmed to be the inhabitants of the elements, 
 upon whose assistance they relied for success in their enter- 
 prise. They then moved with the utmost stealth in the direc- 
 tion of the tents, taking care not to cross any of the hills 
 which concealed their approach. It was a miserable circum- 
 stance that these poor creatures had taken up their abode 
 in such ground that their enemies, without being observed, 
 formed an ambuscade not two hundred yards distant, and 
 lay for some time watching the motions of the Esquimaux, 
 as if marking their victims. Here the last preparations for 
 the attack were made: The Indians tied up their long 
 black hair in a knot behind, lest it should be blown in their 
 eyes ; painted their faces black and red, which gave them 
 a hideous aspect ; deliberately tucked up the sleeves of 
 their jackets close under the armpits, and pulled off their 
 stockings ; whilst some, still more eager to render them- 
 selves light for running, threw off their jackets, and stood 
 with their weapons in their hands quite naked, except their 
 breech-clothes and shoes. By the time all were ready it 
 was near one o'clock in the morning ; when, finding the 
 Esquimaux quiet, they rushed from their concealment. In 
 an instant, roused by the shouts of the savages, the unfor- 
 tunate wretches, men, women, and children, ran naked out 
 of the tents, and attempted to escape ; but the Indians had 
 surrounded them on the land side, and as none dared to leap 
 into the river, all were murdered in cold blood; whilst 
 Hearne, whom a regard for his personal safety had com- 
 pelled to accompany the party, stood a short way off rooted 
 to the ground in horror and agony. 
 
 " The shrieks and groans of the poor expiring wretches," 
 says he, in his striking account of this dreadful episode in 
 
132 DREADFUL MASSACRE. [1772. 
 
 savage life, " were truly distressing ; and my horror was 
 much increased at seeing a young girl, about eighteen years 
 of age, killed so near me that when the first spear was struck 
 into her side she fell down at my feet and twisted round my 
 legs, so that it was with difficulty that I could disengage 
 myself from her dying grasp. As two Indian men pur- 
 sued this unfortunate victim, I solicited very hard for her 
 life ; but the murderers made no reply till they had stuck 
 both their spears through her body, and transfixed her to 
 the ground. They then looked me sternly in the face, and 
 began to ridicule me by asking if I wanted an Esquimaux 
 wife, whilst they paid not the smallest regard to the shrieks 
 and agony of the poor wretch, who was turning round their 
 spears like an eel. Indeed, after receiving from them much 
 abusive language on the occasion, I was at length obliged 
 to desire that they would be more expeditious in despatch- 
 ing their victim out of her misery, otherwise I should be 
 obliged out of pity to assist in the friendly office of putting 
 an end to the existence of a fellow- creature who was so 
 cruelly wounded. On this request being made, one of the 
 Indians hastily drew his spear from ihe place where it was 
 at first lodged, and pierced it through her breast near the 
 heart. The love of life, however, even in this most miser- 
 able state, was so predominant, that though this might be 
 justly called the most merciful act which could be done for 
 the poor creature, it seemed to be unwelcome ; for, though 
 much exhausted by pain and loss of blood, she made several 
 efforts to ward off the friendly blow. My situation and the 
 terror of my mind at beholding this butchery cannot easily 
 be conceived, much less described. Though I summoned all 
 the fortitude I was master of on the occasion, it was with 
 difficulty that I could refrain from tears ; and I am confi- 
 dent that my features must have feelingly expressed how 
 sincerely I was affected at the barbarous scene I then wit- 
 
1772.] COPPER MINES. 133 
 
 nessed. Even at this hour I cannot reflect on the transac- 
 tions of that horrid day without shedding tears." * 
 
 After making an accurate survey of the river till its 
 junction with the sea, Hearne proceeded to one of the 
 copper mines, which he found scarcely to deserve the name, 
 it being nothing more than a chaotic mass of rocks and 
 gravel, rent by an earthquake, or some other convulsion, 
 into numerous fissures, through one of which flowed a small 
 river. Although the Indians had talked in magnificent 
 terms of this mine, after a search of four hours a solitary 
 piece of ore was all that could be discovered ; and instead 
 of pointing out the hills entirely composed of copper, and 
 the quantities of rich ore with which they had affirmed it 
 would be easy to freight a large vessel, they now told a 
 ridiculous story of some insults offered to the goddess of the 
 mine, who in revenge declared that she would sit upon it 
 till she and it sunk together into the earth. In consequence 
 of this threat, they next year found her sunk up to the waist, 
 and the quantity of copper much decreased, whilst the fol- 
 lowing summer she had entirely disappeared, and the whole 
 mine along with her. 
 
 In reaching the sea, Hearne had accomplished the great 
 object of his journey, and his homeward route did not vary 
 materially from his course to the Arctic Ocean. On 31st 
 July they arrived at the place where the Indians had left 
 their families, and on 9th August resumed their course to 
 the south-west ; travelling, with frequent intervals of rest, 
 till, on 24th November, they reached the northern shore of 
 the great Athabasca Lake. In this latitude, at this season, 
 the sun's course formed an extremely small segment of a 
 circle above the horizon, scarcely rising half-way up the 
 trees; but the brilliancy of the stars, and the vivid and 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, pp. 154, 155. 
 
134 BUFFALO HUNTING [1772. 
 
 beautiful light emitted by the aurora borealis, even without 
 the aid of the moon, amply compensated for the want of the 
 sun, so that at midnight Hcarne could see to read very 
 small print. In the deep stillness of the night, also, these 
 northern meteors were distinctly heard to make a rushing 
 and crackling noise, like the waving of a large flag in a 
 fresh gale of wind.* According to the information of the 
 natives, the Athabasca Lake is nearly one hundred and 
 twenty leagues long from east to west, and twenty wide from 
 north to south. It was beautifully studded with islands, 
 covered with tall poplars, birch, and pines, which were 
 plentifully stocked with deer, and abounded with pike, 
 trout, and barbie, besides the species known by the Indians 
 under the names of tittameg, methy, and shees. 
 
 The country through which they had hitherto travelled 
 had been extremely barren and hilly, covered with stunted 
 firs and dwarf willows ; but it now subsided into a fine 
 plain, occasionally varied with tall woods, and well stocked 
 with buffalo and moose-deer. The party spent some days 
 with much pleasure in hunting ; and as the flesh of the 
 younger buffaloes was delicious, their exhausted stock of 
 provisions was seasonably supplied. 
 
 The bison or buffalo is, in appearance, one of the most 
 terrific animals in America, and perhaps in the whole 
 world. It roams the boundless prairies in immense herds, 
 and its flesh forms the principal food of the Indian tribes 
 who dwell there; while its hide, covered with long shaggy 
 hair, supplies them with bedding and raiment. It is hunted 
 on foot, but more frequently on horseback, and a more 
 exciting species of chase can scarcely be imagined. Cat- 
 lin, who spent several years among the Indians at the 
 head- waters of the Missouri, gives many animated accounts 
 
 * Hearne's Journey, p. 224. 
 
ss^i 
 
 
 ■ .'La *£ 
 
 ^ . tipper. 
 
 BUFFALO-HUNTING. 
 
 The Bison or Buffalo is, in appearance, one of the most terrific animals in 
 
 Amercia, and perhaps in the whole world. . . . It is hunted on foot, but 
 
 more frequently on horseback ; and a more exciting species ot chase can 
 
 scarcely be imagined. — Page 134. 
 
1772.] IN THE PRAIRIES. 135 
 
 of his rencontres with the buffalo. The following sketch 
 of a hunting excursion made by him, with several gentle- 
 men and Indians belonging to a trading company in these 
 regions, will show how these huge monsters are destroyed, 
 and what risks are encountered by those who destroy 
 them : — 
 
 " As we were mounted," says he, " and ready to start, 
 M'Kenzie called up some four or five of his men, and told 
 them to follow immediately on our trail, with as many one- 
 horse carts, which they were to harness up, to bring home 
 the meat : ' Ferry them across the river in the scow,' said he, 
 ' and, following our trail through the bottom, you will find 
 us on the plain yonder, between the Yellowstone and the 
 Missouri Rivers, with meat enough to load you home.' * w * 
 We all crossed the river, and galloped away a couple of 
 miles or so, when we mounted the bluff; and, to be sure, 
 as was said, there was in full view of us a fine herd of 
 some four or five hundred buffaloes, perfectly at rest, and 
 in their own estimation (probably) perfectly secure. Some 
 were grazing, and others were lying down and sleeping. 
 We advanced within a mile or so of them in full view, and 
 then came to a halt. Mons. Chardon ' tossed the feather ' 
 (a custom always observed, to try the course of the wind), 
 and we commenced ' stripping,' as it is termed (i. e., every 
 man strips himself and his horse of every extraneous and 
 unnecessary appendage of dress, &c, that might be an 
 incumbrance in running) : hats are laid off, and coats, and 
 bullet-pouches ; sleeves are rolled up, a handkerchief tied 
 tightly round the head, and another round the waist ; car- 
 tridges are prepared, and placed in the waistcoat pocket, 
 or half-a-dozen bullets ' thro wed into the mouth,' &c. ; all 
 of which takes up some ten or fifteen minutes, and is not, 
 in appearance or in effect, unlike a council of war. Our 
 leader lays the whole plan of the chase ; and, preliminaries 
 
336 BUFFALO HUNTING [1772. 
 
 being fixed, guns charged, and ramrods in our hands, we 
 mount and start for the onset. The horses are all trained 
 for this business, and seem to enter into it with as much 
 enthusiasm, and with as restless a spirit, as the riders 
 themselves. While ' stripping' and mounting, they exhibit 
 the most restless impatience ; and when ' approaching' 
 (which is all of us abreast, at a slow walk, and in a straight 
 line towards the herd, until they discover us and run), they 
 all seem to have caught entirely the spirit of the chase, for 
 the laziest nag among them prances with an elasticity in 
 his step — champing his bit, his ears erect, his eyes strained 
 out of his head, and fixed upon the game before him, whilst 
 he trembles under the saddle of his rider. In this way 
 we carefully and silently marched, until within some forty 
 or fifty rods, when the herd discovering us, wheeled and 
 laid their course in a mass. At this instant we all started 
 (and all must start, for no one could check the fury of those 
 steeds at that moment of excitement), and away we sailed, 
 and over the prairie flew, in a cloud of dust which was 
 raised by their trampling hoofs. M'Kenzie was foremost 
 in the throng, and soon dashed off amidst the dust, and 
 was out of sight — he was after the fattest and fastest. I 
 had discovered a huge bull, whose shoulders towered above 
 the whole band, and I picked my way through the crowd 
 to make my way alongside of him. I went not for ' meat,' 
 but for a trophy : I wanted his head and horns. I dashed 
 along through the thundering mass, as they swept away 
 over the plain, scarcely able to tell whether I was on a 
 buffalo's back or on my horse — -hit, hooked, and jostled 
 about, till at length I found myself alongside of my game, 
 when I gave him a shot as I passed him. I saw guns 
 flash in several directions about me, but I heard them not. 
 Amidst the trampling throng, Mons. Chardon had wounded 
 a stately bull, and at this moment was passing him again, 
 
1772.] IN THE PRAIRIES. 137 
 
 with his piece levelled for another shot ; they were both 
 at full speed — and I also — within the reach of the muzzle 
 of my gun, when the bull instantly turned, receiving the 
 horse upon his horns, and the ground received poor Char- 
 don, who made a frog's leap of some twenty feet or more 
 over the bull's back, and almost under my horse's heels. 
 I wheeled my horse as soon as possible, and rode back to 
 where Chardon lay, gasping to start his breath again; 
 and, within a few paces of him, his huge victim, with his 
 heels high in the air, and his horse lying across him. I 
 dismounted instantly ; but Chardon was raising himself on 
 his hands, with his eyes and mouth full of dirt, and feeling 
 for his gun, which lay about thirty feet in advance of 
 him!"* 
 
 Dr. Richardson relates an anecdote which illustrates the 
 danger sometimes encountered in hunting the buffalo on 
 foot : " While I resided at Carlton House," says he, " Mr. 
 Finnan M 'Donald, one of the Hudson's Bay Company's 
 clerks, was descending the Saskatchewan in a boat, and 
 one evening, having pitched his tent for the night, he went 
 out in the dusk to look for game. It had become nearly 
 dark, when he fired at a bison-bull, which was galloping 
 over a small eminence ; and as he was hastening forward 
 to see if his shot had taken effect, the wounded beast made 
 a rush at him. He had presence of mind to seize the 
 animal by the long hair on its forehead, as it struck him 
 on the side with its horn ; and being a remarkably tall 
 and powerful man, a struggle ensued, which continued 
 until his wrist was severely sprained, and his arm rendered 
 powerless. He then fell, and after receiving two or three 
 blows, became senseless. Shortly after, he was found by 
 his companions tying bathed in blood, being gored in 
 
 * Catl in's North American Indians, vol. i. pp. 25, 26. 
 
138 EXTRAORDINARY STORY [1772. 
 
 several places; and the bison was couched beside him, 
 apparently waiting to renew the attack had he shown any 
 signs of life. Mr. M 'Donald recovered from the immediate 
 effects of the injuries he had received, but died a few 
 months afterwards."* 
 
 In one of their excursions an incident occurred strikingly 
 characteristic of savage life. Hearne and his party came 
 suddenly on the track of a strange snow-shoe, and follow- 
 ing it to a wild part of the country, remote from any human 
 habitation, they discovered a hut, in which a young Indian 
 woman was sitting alone. She had lived for the last eight 
 moons in absolute solitude, and recounted with affecting 
 simplicity the circumstances by which she had been driven 
 from her own people. She belonged, she said, to the tribe 
 of the Dog- ribbed Indians, and in an inroad of the Atha- 
 basca nation, in the summer of 1770, had been taken pri- 
 soner. The savages, according to their invariable practice, 
 stole upon the tents in the night, and murdered before her 
 face her father, mother, and husband, whilst she and three 
 other young women were reserved from the slaughter, and 
 made captive. Her child, four or five months old, she 
 contrived to carry with her, concealed among some cloth- 
 ing; but on arriving at the place where the party had left 
 their wives, her precious bundle was examined by the 
 Athabasca women, one of whom tore the infant from its 
 mother, and killed it on the spot. In Europe, an act so 
 inhuman would, in all probability, have been instantly fol- 
 lowed by the insanity of the parent; but in North America, 
 though maternal affection is equally intense, the nerves are 
 more sternly strung. So horrid a cruelty, however, deter- 
 mined her, though the man whose property she had become 
 was kind and careful of her, to take the first opportunity of 
 
 * Fauna Boreali Americana, vol. i., p. 281. 
 
1772.] OF AN INDIAN WOMAN. 139 
 
 escaping, with the intention of returning to her own nation; 
 but the great distance, and the numerous winding rivers 
 and creeks she had to pass, caused her to lose the way, 
 and winter coming on, she had built a hut in this secluded 
 spot. When discovered, she was in good health, well fed, 
 and, in the opinion of Hearne, one of the finest Indian 
 women he had ever seen. Five or six inches of hoop made 
 into a knife, and the iron shank of an arrow-head which 
 served as an awl, were the only implements she possessed; 
 and with these she made snow-shoes and other useful 
 articles. For subsistence she snared partridges, rabbits, 
 and squirrels, and had killed two or three beavers and some 
 porcupines. After the few deer- sinews she had brought 
 with her were expended in making snares and sewing her 
 clothing, she supplied their place with the sinews of rab- 
 bits' legs, which she twisted together with great dexterity. 
 Thus occupied, she not only became reconciled to her deso- 
 late situation, but had found time to amuse herself by 
 manufacturing little pieces of personal ornament. Her 
 clothing was formed of rabbit-skins sewed together; the 
 materials, though rude, being tastefully disposed, so as to 
 make her garb assume a pleasing though desert-bred 
 appearance. The singular circumstances under which she 
 was found, her beauty and useful accomplishments, occa- 
 sioned a contest among the Indians, as to who should have 
 her for a wife; and the matter being decided, she accom- 
 panied them in their journey. On 1 st March they left the 
 level country of the Athabascas, and approached the stony 
 hills bounding the territories of the Northern Indians, tra- 
 versing which they arrived in safety at Prince of Wales' 
 Fort on the 29th of June 1772, having been absent eighteen 
 months and twenty-three days. 
 
 The journey of Hearne must be regarded as forming an 
 important era in the geography of America. For some 
 
140 NORTH-WEST FUR COMPANY. [1772. 
 
 time it had been supposed that this vast continent extended 
 in an almost unbroken mass towards the Pole; and we 
 find it thus depicted in the maps of that period. The cir- 
 cumstance of Hearne having reached the shore of the great 
 Arctic Ocean at once demonstrated the fallacy of all such 
 ideas. It threw a new and clear light upon the structure 
 of this portion of the globe, and resting upon the results 
 thus distinctly ascertained, the human mind, indefatigable 
 in the pursuit of knowledge, started forward in a career of 
 still more enlarged and interesting discovery.* 
 
 Whilst the Hudson's Bay Company, by the mission of 
 Mr. Hearne, vindicated their character from the charge of 
 indifference to the cause of geographical discovery, another 
 institution had arisen, under the title of the North-West 
 Fur Company, which, though it did not rest on a royal 
 charter, and had experienced in its earliest exertions many 
 severe reverses, at last arrived, by the intelligence and 
 perseverance of its partners and servants, at a degree of 
 prosperity which surpassed the chartered companies of 
 France and England. In the counting-house of Mr. Gre- 
 gory, a partner of this company, was bred a native of 
 Inverness, named Alexander Mackenzie. In conducting 
 the practical details of the fur trade, he had been settled at 
 an early period of life in the country to the north-west of 
 Lake Superior, and became animated with the ambition of 
 penetrating across the continent. For this undertaking he 
 was eminently qualified; possessing an inquisitive and en- 
 terprising mind with a strong frame of body, and combin- 
 ing the fervid and excursive genius which has been said to 
 characterize the Scots in general, with that more cautious 
 and enduring temperament which belongs to the northern 
 Highlander. 
 
 * Murray's Discoveries and Travels in North America, vol. ii. p. 149. 
 
1789.] SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 141 
 
 On 3d June 1789, Mackenzie set out from Fort Che- 
 pewyan, at the head of the Athabasca Lake, a station 
 nearly central between Hudson's Bay and the Pacific. He 
 had resided here for eight years, and was familiar with the 
 difficulties of the journey, as well as aware of the most 
 likely methods of surmounting them. He took with him 
 four canoes. In the first he embarked with a German and 
 four Canadians, two of the latter being accompanied by 
 their wives. A Northern Indian, called the English Chief, 
 who had been a follower of Matonabbee, the guide of Mr. 
 Hearne, occupied the second, with his two wives. The 
 third was paddled by two stout young Indians, who acted 
 in the double capacity of hunters and interpreters ; whilst 
 the fourth was laden with provisions, clothing, ammunition, 
 and various articles intended as presents for the Indians. 
 This last canoe was committed to the charge of Mr. le 
 Roux, one of the company's clerks. 
 
 On 4th June the party reached the Slave River, which 
 connects the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, in a course of 
 about one hundred and seventy miles ; and on the 9 th of the 
 same month they arrived at the Slave Lake, without experi- 
 encing any other inconveniences than those arising from the 
 attacks of the mosquitoes during the heat of the dsiy, and the 
 extreme cold in the morning and evening. In the river were 
 frequent rapids, which obliged them to land and transport 
 their canoes and luggage over the carrying-places — a toil- 
 some process, but attended with no danger, as the path had 
 been cleared by the Indians trading with the company. The 
 banks were covered with various kinds of trees ; but owing 
 to its inferior level and its rich black soil, the western side 
 was more thickly wooded than the other. On the eastern 
 bank, composed of a yellow clay mixed with gravel, the 
 trees were smaller, but in full leaf, though the ground was 
 not thawed above fourteen inches in depth. At a little 
 
142 BEAVER HOUSES. [1789. 
 
 distance from the river were extensive plains frequented 
 by herds of buffaloes ; the woods bordering its sides were 
 tenanted by moose and rein-deer; and numerous colonies of 
 beavers built their habitations on the small streams which 
 fed the lake. 
 
 The situation of beaver-houses is found to be various. 
 When the animals are numerous, they inhabit lakes, ponds, 
 and rivers, as well as those narrow creeks which connect 
 the lakes together. Generally, however, they prefer flow- 
 ing waters, probably on account of the advantages presented 
 by the current in transporting the materials of their dwell- 
 ings. They also prefer deepish water, no doubt because it 
 affords a better protection from the frost. It is when they 
 build in small creeks or rivers, the waters of which are 
 liable to dry or be drained off, that they manifest that 
 beautiful instinct with which Providence has gifted them — 
 the formation of dams. These differ in shape, according 
 to their particular localities. When the water has little 
 motion, the dam is almost straight ; when the current is 
 considerable, it is curved, with its convexity towards the 
 stream. The materials made use of are drift-wood, green 
 willows, birch, and poplars; also mud and stones inter- 
 mixed in such a manner as must evidently contribute to 
 the strength of the dam ; but there is no particular method 
 observed except that the work is carried on with a regular 
 sweep, and all the parts are made of equal strength. " In 
 places," says Hearne, " which have been long frequented 
 by beavers undisturbed, their dams, by frequent repairing, 
 become a solid bank, capable of resisting a great force both 
 of ice and water ; and as the willow, poplar, and birch, 
 generally take root and shoot up, they by degrees form a 
 kind of regular planted hedge, which I have seen in some 
 places so tall, that birds have built their nests among the 
 branches." 
 
1789.] BEAVER HOUSES. 143 
 
 The beaver-houses are built of the same materials as the 
 dams, and seldom contain more than four old, and six or 
 eight young ones. There is little order or regularity in 
 their structure. It frequently happens that some of the 
 larger houses are found to have one or more partitions, 
 but these are only parts of the main building left by the 
 sagacity of the beavers to support the roof; and the apart- 
 ments, as some are pleased to consider them, have usually 
 no communication with each other, except by water. Those 
 travellers who assert that the beavers have two doors to 
 their dwellings, one on the land side, and the other next 
 the water, manifest, according to Hearne, even a greater 
 ignorance of the habits of these animals, than those who 
 assign to them an elegant suite of apartments — for such a 
 construction would render their houses of little use, either 
 as a protection from their enemies, or as a covering from 
 the winter's cold. 
 
 It is not true that beavers drive stakes into the ground 
 when building their houses ; they lay the pieces crosswise 
 and horizontal ; neither is it true that the wood- work is 
 first finished and then plastered ; for both houses and dams 
 consist from the foundation of a mingled mass of mud and 
 wood, mixed with stones when these can be procured. They 
 carry the mud and stones between their fore- paws, and the 
 wood in their mouths. They always work in the night, and 
 with great expedition. They cover their houses late every 
 autumn with fresh mud, which freezes when the frosts set 
 in, and becomes almost as hard and solid as stone ; and thus 
 neither wolves nor wolverenes can disturb their repose. 
 When walking over their work, and especially when about 
 to plunge into the water, they sometimes give a peculiar flap 
 with their tails, which has no doubt occasioned the errone- 
 ous belief that they use these organs exactly as a mason uses 
 his trowel. Now, a tame beaver will flap by the fireside, 
 
144 TAME BEAVERS. [1789. 
 
 where there is nothing but dust and ashes ; and it therefore 
 only uses the trowel in common with the water- wagtail ; 
 in other words, the quadruped, as well as the bird, is char- 
 acterized by a peculiar motion of its caudal extremity. 
 
 The food of this animal consists chiefly of the root of the 
 plant called Nuphar luteum, which bears a resemblance to 
 a cabbage- stalk, and grows at the bottom of lakes and 
 rivers. It also gnaws the bark of birch, poplar, and willow 
 trees. In summer, however, a more varied herbage, with 
 the addition of berries, is consumed. When the ice breaks 
 up in the spring, the beavers always leave their houses 
 and rove about until a little before the fall of the leaf, when 
 they return again to their old habitations, and lay in their 
 winter stock of wood. Hearne gives the following account 
 of some tame beavers which belonged to him : — " In cold 
 weather they were kept in my own sitting room, where they 
 were the constant companions of the Indian women and 
 children, and were so fond of their company, that when the 
 Indians were absent for any considerable time, the beavers 
 discovered great signs of uneasiness, and on their return 
 showed equal marks of pleasure, by fondling on them, 
 crawling into their laps, lying on their backs, sitting erect 
 like a squirrel, and behaving like children who see their 
 parents but seldom. In general, during the winter, they 
 lived on the same food as the women did, and were remark- 
 ably fond of rice and plum-pudding ; they would eat part- 
 ridges and fresh vension very freely, but I never tried them 
 with fish, though I have heard they will at times prey on 
 them. In fact, there are few graminivorous animals that 
 may not be brought to be carnivorous." 
 
 The lake was covered with ice, which had not given 
 way except in a small strip round the shore, where the 
 depth, nowhere exceeding three feet, was scarcely sufficient 
 to float the canoes. Though now the 9th of June, there 
 
1793.] GRIZZLY BEARS. 161 
 
 trappers in the Rocky Mountains — or more often ' Calc,' 
 for brevity's sake). She was sitting up in the dignity and 
 fury of her sex, within a few rods, and gazing upon us, 
 with her two little cubs at her side ! Here was a fix, and 
 a subject for the painter ; but I had no time to sketch it. 
 I turned my eyes to the canoe, which had been fastened to 
 the shore a few paces from us, and saw that everything had 
 been pawed out of it, and all eatables had been without 
 ceremony devoured. My packages of dresses and Indian 
 curiosities had been drawn out upon the banks, and de- 
 liberately opened and inspected. Everything had been 
 scraped and pawed out to the bottom of the canoe ; and 
 even the raw-hide thong with which it was tied to a stake, 
 had been chewed, and, no doubt, swallowed, as there was 
 no trace of it remaining. Nor was this peep into the 
 secrets of our luggage enough for her insatiable curiosity : 
 we saw by the prints of her huge paws that were left in the 
 ground, that she had been perambulating our humble mat- 
 tresses, smelling at our toes and noses, without choosing to 
 molest us — verifying a trite saying of the country, ' that 
 man lying down is medicine (i. e., mystery) to the grizzly 
 bear,' though it is a well-known fact that man and beast, 
 upon their feet, are sure to be attacked when they cross the 
 path of this monster, which is the terror of all the country, 
 often growing to the enormous size of eight hundred or one 
 thousand pounds. Whilst we sat in the dilemma which I 
 have just described, each one was hastily preparing his 
 weapons for defence, when I proposed the mode of attack ; 
 by which means I was in hopes to destroy her, capture the 
 young ones, and bring her skin home as a trophy. My 
 plans, however, entirely failed, though we were well armed; 
 for Bogard and Ba'tiste both remonstrated with a vehe- 
 mence that was irresistible, saying that the standing rule 
 in the mountains was ' never to fight Caleb except in self- 
 L 
 
162 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. [1793. 
 
 defence.' I was almost induced, however, to attack her 
 alone, with my rifle in hand and a pair of heavy pistols, 
 and a tomahawk and scalping-knife in my belt, when 
 Ba'tiste suddenly thrust his arm over my shoulder, and, 
 pointing in another direction, exclaimed in an emphatic 
 tone, ' voila ! voila ! un corps de reserve, Monsr. Cataline, 
 voila sa mari ! ' to which Bogard added, ' These darned 
 animals are too much for us, we had better be off! ' at which 
 my courage cooled, and we packed up and re- embarked as 
 fast as possible, giving each one of them the contents ot 
 our rifles as we drifted off in the current."* 
 
 From this time till the 21st of May, the passage was 
 attended with difficulties that would have disheartened a 
 less energetic leader. The river being broken by frequent 
 cascades and dangerous rapids, it was necessary to carry 
 the canoe and luggage till they could resume their voyage 
 in safety. On their nearer approach to the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, the stream, hemmed in between stupendous rocks, 
 presented a continuance of frightful torrents and imprac- 
 ticable cataracts. The dangers to which they had already 
 been exposed had greatly disheartened the men, and they 
 began to murmur audibly, so that no alternative was left 
 but to return. Indeed, there was some reason for this 
 irresolution : by water farther progress was impossible, and 
 they could only advance over a mountain whose sides were 
 broken by sharp jagged rocks, and thickly covered with 
 wood. Mackenzie despatched a reconnoitring party, with 
 orders to ascend the mountain, and proceed in a straight 
 course from its summit, keeping the line of the river till 
 they ascertained that it was navigable. During their 
 absence his people repaired the canoe, whilst he took an 
 altitude which ascertained the latitude to be 56° 8'. At 
 
 * Catlin's North American Indians, vol. i. pp. 71, 72. 
 
1793.] PERILS OF THE JOURNEY. 163 
 
 sunset the scouts returned by different routes. They had 
 penetrated through thick woods, ascended hills, and dived 
 into valleys till they got beyond the rapids, and agreed, 
 that though the difficulties to be encountered by land were 
 alarming, it was their only course. Unpromising as the 
 task appeared, their spirits had risen, and their murmurs 
 were forgotten ; so that a kettle of wild rice sweetened with 
 sugar, with the usual evening regale of rum, renewed their 
 courage; and after a night's rest, they proceeded at break 
 of day on their laborious journey. 
 
 In the first place, the men cut a road up the mountain 
 where the trees were smallest, felling some in such a 
 manner as to make them fall parallel to the road without 
 separating them entirely from the stumps, in this way 
 forming a kind of railing on either side. The baggage 
 and the canoe were then brought from the water-side to the 
 encampment — an undertaking exceedingly perilous, as a 
 single false step must have been followed by immersion 
 into the river, which flowed here with furious rapidity. 
 Having accomplished this labour, the party breathed a 
 little, and then ascended the mountain with the canoe, 
 having the line or rope by which it was drawn up doubled, 
 and fastened successively to the stumps left for this purpose, 
 whilst a man at the end hauled it round a tree, holding it 
 on, and shifting it as they advanced. In this manner the 
 canoe was warped up the steep ; and by two in the afternoon 
 everything had been carried to the summit. Men were 
 then despatched to cut the road onwards ; and the incessant 
 labour of another day could only penetrate about three miles, 
 whilst mountains much more elevated raised their snowy 
 summits around in every direction. These, however, were 
 at a distance; and another day's exertion brought them 
 through a wood of tall pines to the banks of the river above 
 the rapids. Before again embarking, Mackenzie left 
 
164 THE VOYAGE RESUMED. [1793. 
 
 attached to a pole a knife, a steel, flint, beads, and other 
 trifles, as a token of amity to the natives ; and one of his 
 Indians added a small round stick of green wood, chewed 
 at one end in the form of a brush, used to pick marrow out 
 of bones — an instrument which he explained to be intended 
 as an emblem to the people of a country abounding in 
 animals.* 
 
 They now resumed their voyage, enclosed on all sides 
 by mountains whose summits were covered with snow, and 
 one of which to the south rose to a majestic height. The 
 air became chill ; the water, through which they frequently 
 waded towing or pushing their bark, was intensely cold ; 
 and on 31st May they reached a point minutely described 
 to them before setting out by an old Indian warrior. Here 
 the river separated into two streams, one running west- 
 north-west, and the other south- south-east. The first of 
 these they had been warned to avoid, as it soon lost itself 
 in various smaller currents among the mountains ; and the 
 steersman accordingly proceeded into the eastern branch, 
 which, though not so broad as the other, was far more 
 rapid. The course of their journey now led them through 
 many populous beaver settlements. In some places these 
 animals had cut down several acres of large poplars; and 
 they saw multitudes busy from sunrise to sunset erecting 
 houses, procuring food, superintending their dykes, and 
 going diligently through all the labours of their little com- 
 monwealth. Perceiving soon after a smoke in the forest 
 which lined the banks, and hearing the sounds of human 
 voices in great confusion, they became aware that they 
 were near an Indian encampment, from which the inhabit- 
 ants were retreating. Accordingly, on approaching the 
 shore, two ferocious-looking men sprung from the woods, 
 
 * Mackenzie, p. 181. 
 
1793.] DESPONDENCY. 165 
 
 and took their station on a rising ground, brandishing their 
 spears with loud vociferations. A few words of explana- 
 tion from the interpreter, and some presents, pacified them, 
 and Mackenzie made anxious inquiries regarding the 
 nature of the country, and the great river which formed 
 the object of his search. To his mortification, he found 
 that they were unacquainted with any river to the west- 
 ward; they had just arrived over a carrying- place of 
 eleven days from another stream, which was nothing else 
 than a large branch of the one the expedition was then 
 navigating. Their iron, they said, was procured in ex- 
 change for beaver and dress moose- skins from the people 
 there, who travelled during a moon to the country of other 
 tribes living in houses, and these in their turn extended 
 their journeys to the ocean, or, to use their disparaging 
 epithet, the Great Stinking Lake, where they traded with 
 white people, who came in canoes as large as islands. 
 Their knowledge of the country, however, appeared so 
 vague, that all hope of procuring a guide was vain, and 
 the heart of the traveller sunk within him as he felt that 
 his favourite project was on the point of being utterly dis- 
 concerted. 
 
 Amidst this despondency, a faint hope remained that the 
 natives, under the influence of suspicion, timidity, or from 
 imperfectly understanding the interpreter, had not com- 
 municated all they knew; and after a night sleepless from 
 anxiety, the traveller rose with the sun to repeat his in- 
 quiries. At first nothing satisfactory could be elicited; 
 but suddenly Mackenzie, who stood beside the interpreters, 
 understood, from the few words he knew of their language, 
 that one person mentioned a great river, whilst he pointed 
 significantly to that which lay before them. On a strict 
 inquiry, the interpreter, who had been tired of the voyage, 
 and of whose fidelity some suspicion was entertained, ac- 
 
166 MANNERS OF THE INDIANS. [1793. 
 
 knowledged that the Indian spoke of a large river whose 
 course was towards the mid-day sun, a branch of which 
 flowed near the source of the stream they were now navi- 
 gating. This branch, he added, it would not be difficult 
 to reach, there being only three small lakes and as many 
 carrying-places on the way to it; but he also insisted that 
 the great river did not discharge itself into the sea* This 
 last assertion was imputed to his ignorance of the country, 
 whilst a rude map, which he delineated with a piece of coal 
 on a strip of bark, convinced them that his information, so 
 far as it went, was to be relied on. A new ray of hope 
 now arose; and having induced an Indian to go forward 
 as a guide to the borders of the small lakes, Mackenzie 
 resumed his journey on 10th June, promising, if successful 
 in his object, to revisit these friendly Indians in two 
 moons. 
 
 These people were of low stature and meagre frame, 
 owing probably to the difficulty of procuring subsistence ; 
 round faces, high cheek-bones, black hair hanging in elf- 
 locks over their shoulders, and a swarthy yellow complexion, 
 combined to give them a forbidding aspect ; whilst their 
 garments of beaver, rein- deer, and ground-hog skins, 
 dressed with the hair outside, having the tail of this last 
 animal hanging down the back, might, when seen at a 
 distance, occasion some doubt whether they belonged to the 
 human race. Their women were extremely ugly, lustier 
 and taller than the men, but much inferior in cleanliness. 
 Their warlike weapons were cedar bows, six feet long, with 
 a short iron spike at one end, so that they might also be 
 used as spears. The arrows were barbed with iron, flint, 
 stone, or bone, from two to two feet and a half long, and 
 feathered with great neatness. They had two kinds of 
 
 * Mackenzie, pp. 203, 204. 
 
1793.] CANOE WRECKED. 167 
 
 spears, both double-edged, of well -polished iron, and with 
 shafts from eight to six feet long. Their knives were of 
 iron worked by themselves, and their axes resembled a 
 carpenter's adze. They used snares of green skin, nets, 
 and fishing-lines of willow-bark, hooks of small bones, and 
 kettles of watape so closely woven as not to leak. Besides 
 these they had various dishes of wood and bark, horn and 
 wooden spoons and buckets, and leathern and net-work 
 bags. Their canoes, of spruce-bark, calculated to hold 
 from two to five persons, were propelled by paddles six feet 
 long, with the blade shaped like a heart.* 
 
 Pursuing their journey under the direction of the new 
 guide, they reached a small lake in latitude 54° 24', which 
 Mackenzie considered as the highest or southernmost source 
 of the Ungigah, or Peace River. They passed two other 
 lakes, and again entered the river, the navigation of which, 
 from its rapidity and the trees and rocks in its channel, 
 now became dangerous. The canoe struck on a sharp 
 rock, which shattered the stern, and drove her to the other 
 side, where the bow met the same fate. To complete the 
 disaster, she passed at this moment over a cascade, which 
 broke several holes in her bottom, and reduced her to a 
 complete wreck, lying flat upon the water. All hands now 
 lumped out, and clinging desperately to the sides, were 
 hurried several hundred yards through a foaming torrent 
 beset with sharp rocks, upon which they were every instant 
 in danger of being dashed to pieces. Being carried, how- 
 ever, into shallow water, where the canoe rested on the 
 stones, they were relieved from their perilous situation by 
 their companions on shore. 
 
 After this escape, a consultation was held regarding their 
 future proceedings. Benumbed with cold, and intimidated 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, pp. 205, 206. 
 
168 MACKENZIE REACHES THE GREAT RIVER. [1793. 
 
 by their recent dangers, the Indians proposed an immediate 
 return ; but the remonstrances of their leader, enforced by 
 the usual arguments of a hearty meal and an allowance of 
 rum, banished their fears. It was next proposed to aban- 
 don the wreck, to carry the baggage to the river, which 
 the guide affirmed to be at no great distance, and there to 
 construct a new vessel. But as it was suspected that this 
 representation was not to be relied on, a party was de- 
 spatched to reconnoitre, and brought back a very confused 
 and unpromising account of the country. It was therefore 
 determined to repair the canoe, and proceed as before. For 
 this purpose bark was collected, which, with a few pieces 
 of oil-cloth and plenty of gum, restored their shattered boat 
 to something like a sea- worthy condition. Her frail state, 
 however, rendered it necessary to carry part of the lading 
 on men's shoulders along the banks ; and as a road had to 
 be opened with hatchets, their progress was extremely slow. 
 
 On 16th June, Mr. Mackay and two Indians were de- 
 spatched with orders to penetrate if possible to the great 
 river in the direction indicated by the guide. They suc- 
 ceeded ; but returned with a discouraging account of the 
 interminable woods and deep morasses which intervened. 
 These gloomy prospects were increased by the desertion of 
 their guide ; but nothing could repress Mackenzie's ardour. 
 Cutting a passage through the woods, carrying the canoe 
 round the rapids and cascades, they held on their slow and 
 toilsome way, till at last, after passing a swamp, in many 
 places wading to mid-thigh, they enjoyed the satisfaction 
 of reaching the bank of the great river, which had been 
 the object of so much anxious expectation and protracted 
 hope.* 
 
 Embarking anew, they were borne along by a strong 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 228. 
 
1793.] HOSTILITY OF THE NATIVES. ] 69 
 
 current, which, slackening after a short time, allowed them 
 to glide gently between banks of high white cliffs, sur- 
 mounted with grotesque and singularly- shaped pinnacles. 
 After some progress, the party were alarmed by a loud 
 whoop from the thick woods ; at the same moment a canoe, 
 guided by a single savage, shot out from the mouth of a 
 small tributary stream, and a number of natives, armed 
 with bows and arrows, appeared on an adjacent rising 
 ground, uttering loud cries, and manifesting by their ges- 
 tures that instant death would be inflicted on any one who 
 landed. Every attempt to conciliate them proved unavail- 
 ing; and a canoe was observed to steal swiftly down the 
 river, with the evident design of communicating the alarm 
 and procuring assistance. At this critical moment the 
 courage and prudence of Mackenzie providentially saved 
 his party. He landed alone, with two pistols stuck in his 
 belt ; having first, however, given orders to one of his 
 Indians to steal into the woods with a couple of guns, and 
 to keep near him in case of attack. " I had not been long/' 
 says he, " in my station on the bank, with my Indian in 
 ambush behind me, when two of the natives came off in a 
 canoe, but stopped when they got within a hundred yards 
 of me. I made signs for them to land, and as an induce- 
 ment displayed looking-glasses, beads, and other alluring 
 trinkets. At length, but with every mark of extreme 
 apprehension, they approached the shore, taking care to 
 turn their canoe stern foremost, and still not venturing to 
 land. I now made them a present of some beads, with 
 which they were going to push off, when I renewed my 
 entreaties, and after some time prevailed on them to come 
 ashore and sit down by me. My Indian hunter now 
 thought it right to join me, and created some alarm in my 
 new acquaintance. It was, however, soon removed, and 
 I had the satisfaction to find that he and these people 
 
170 THEY ARE CONCILIATED BY MACKENZIE. [1793. 
 
 perfectly understood each other. I instructed him to say 
 everything to them which might tend to soothe their fears 
 and win their confidence. I expressed my wish to con- 
 duct them to our canoe ; but they declined this offer ; and 
 when they observed some of my people coming towards us, 
 they requested me to let them return, and I was so well 
 satisfied with the progress which I had made in my inter- 
 course with them, that I did not hesitate a moment in com- 
 plying with their desire. During their short stay, they 
 observed us, and everything about us, with a mixture of 
 admiration and astonishment. We could plainly perceive 
 that their friends received them with great joy on their 
 return, and that the articles which they carried back with 
 them were examined with a general and eager curiosity. 
 They also appeared to hold a consultation which lasted 
 about a quarter of an hour, and the result was an invita- 
 tion to come over to them, which we cheerfully accepted. 
 Nevertheless, on our landing they betrayed evident signs 
 of confusion, which arose probably from the quickness of 
 our movements, as the prospect of a friendly communica- 
 tion had so cheered the spirits of the people that they 
 paddled across the river with the utmost expedition. The 
 two men who had been with us appeared very naturally to 
 possess the greatest share of courage on the occasion, and 
 were ready to receive us on our landing ; but our demean- 
 our soon dispelled their apprehensions, and the most fami- 
 liar communication took place between us. When I had 
 secured their confidence by the distribution of trinkets 
 among them, and had treated the children with sugar, I 
 instructed my interpreters to collect every necessary infor- 
 mation in their power to afford me."* 
 
 The intelligence procured from this tribe was discourag- 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, pp. 244, 245. 
 
1793.] AMERICAN COSMOGRAPHY. 171 
 
 ing. They stated, indeed, that the river ran towards the 
 raid-day sun, and that at its mouth white people were 
 building houses; but that the navigation was dangerous, 
 and in three places absolutely impassable, owing to the 
 falls and rapids. The nations through whose territories 
 the route lay, they represented as ferocious and malignant, 
 especially their immediate neighbours, who dwelt in sub- 
 terranean houses. Unappalled by this description, Mac- 
 kenzie re-embarked, and he was accompanied by a small 
 canoe, with two persons who consented to act as guides. 
 Coming to a place where some savage-looking people were 
 seen on a high ground, it was thought expedient to land, 
 and an amicable interview took place, which led to im- 
 portant consequences. On explaining the object of the 
 journey, one of the natives, of superior rank and intelligence, 
 drew a sketch of the country on a piece of bark, appealing 
 during his labour to his companions, and accompanying 
 the rude but perfectly intelligible map by details as to their 
 future voyage. He described the river as running to the 
 east of south, receiving in its course many tributary streams, 
 and broken every six or eight leagues by dangerous falls 
 and rapids, six of which were altogether impracticable. 
 The carrying- places he represented as of great length 
 across mountains. He depicted the lands of three tribes 
 in succession, who spoke different languages; and con- 
 cluded by saying that beyond them he knew nothing ot 
 the country, except that it was still a great way to the sea, 
 and that there was a lake of which the natives did not 
 drink.* 
 
 Whilst the route by water was thus said to be imprac- 
 ticable, they asserted that the road across the country to 
 the ocean was short in comparison, and lay along a valley 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 253. 
 
172 OVERLAND JOURNEY. [1793. 
 
 free from wood, and frequently travelled. Other consi- 
 derations combined to recommend this latter course to 
 Mackenzie : — Only thirty days' provisions were left, and 
 the supply procured by hunting was very precarious. The 
 ammunition was nearly spent; and if the prosecution of 
 the voyage appeared perilous, a return would have been 
 equally so. Under these circumstances, it was resolved 
 to abandon the canoe, and to penetrate overland to the 
 Western Ocean. 
 
 To arrive at the spot where they were to strike off across 
 the country, it was necessary to return a considerable way 
 up the river — a service of great danger, owing to the shat- 
 tered condition of the boat and the hostile dispositions of 
 the natives, who were apt to change in an instant from the 
 greatest friendliness to unmitigated rage and suspicion. 
 The guides deserted them, and it became absolutely neces- 
 sary to build a new canoe. She proved better than the old 
 one, and they at last reached the point whence they were 
 to start overland. " We carried on our back," says Mac- 
 kenzie, " four bags and a half of pemmican, weighing 
 from eighty-five to ninety-five pounds each, a case with 
 the instruments, a parcel of goods for presents, weighing 
 ninety pounds, and a parcel containing ammunition of the 
 same weight; each of the Canadians had a burden of 
 about ninety pounds, with a gun and ammunition, whilst 
 the Indians had about forty -five pounds' weight of pem- 
 mican, besides their gun — an obligation with which, owing 
 to their having been treated with too much indulgence, they 
 expressed themselves much dissatisfied. My own load and 
 that of Mr. Mackay consisted of twenty-two pounds of 
 pemmican, some rice, sugar, and other small articles, 
 amounting to about seventy pounds, besides our arms and 
 ammunition. The tube of my telescope was also slung 
 across my shoulder; and owing to the low state of our 
 
1793.] FRIENDLY INDIANS. 173 
 
 provisions, it was determined that we should content our- 
 selves with two meals a-day."* 
 
 Thus laden, they struck into the woods, and travelling 
 along a tolerably beaten path, arrived before night at some 
 Indian tents, where they were joined by an elderly man 
 and three other natives. The old man held in his hand a 
 spear of European manufacture, like a Serjeant's halberd, 
 which he stated he had lately received from some people on 
 the sea-coast, to whom it had been given by white men. 
 He added, that those heavily laden did not take more than 
 six days to reach the tribes with whom he and his friends 
 bartered their furs and skins for iron, and that thence it 
 was scarcely two days' march to the sea. He recommended 
 also that, whilst they retired to sleep, two young Indians 
 should be sent forward to warn the different tribes whose 
 territories they were approaching — a precaution which had 
 the best effects. Another pleasing distinction between 
 their present hosts and the other savages whom they had 
 passed soon presented itself. When the weary travellers 
 lay down to rest, the Indians took their station at a little 
 distance, and began a song in a sweet plaintive tone, un- 
 accompanied by any instrument, but with a modulation 
 exceedingly pleasing and solemn, not unlike that of church 
 music. The circumstance may remind the reader of the 
 descriptions of American music given by Mr. Meares and 
 Captain Burney, whom it strikingly corroborates. 
 
 Having procured two guides, they now proceeded through 
 an open country sprinkled with cypresses, and joined a 
 family of the natives. The father, on hearing their inten- 
 tion of penetrating to the ocean, pointed to one of his wives 
 who was a native of the sea-coast ; her appearance differed 
 from the females they had hitherto seen. She was of low 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 285. 
 
174 THE GUIDES DESERT. [1793 
 
 stature, inclined to corpulency, with an oblong face, gray 
 eyes, and a flattish nose. Her garments consisted of a 
 tunic covered with a robe of matted bark, fringed round 
 the bottom with the beautiful fur of the sea-otter. She 
 wore bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, whilst her hair 
 was braided with large blue beads, and her ears and neck 
 adorned with the same. With these people age seemed to 
 be an object of great veneration : they tiamed an old woman 
 by turns upon their backs, who was quite blind and infirm. 
 The country appeared well peopled, and the natives, though 
 at first alarmed, were soon conciliated by the guides. In 
 some places they observed chains of small lakes, the val- 
 leys were verdant and watered with pleasant rivulets, and 
 the scenery varied by groves of cypress and poplar, in 
 which they were surprised to see no animals. The inha- 
 bitants indeed seemed to live exclusively on fish ; and the 
 people of one small settlement containing thirteen families 
 were denominated, in the language of the country, Sloa- 
 cuss-Dinais or Red Fish Men. They were healthy looking, 
 and more provident, cleanly, and comfortable, than the 
 neighbouring tribes. 
 
 One of Mackenzie's greatest and most frequent perplexi- 
 ties arose out of the sudden fits of caprice and change of 
 purpose which characterize most savages, but none more 
 than the Americans. An example of this now occurred. 
 The guides, upon whose fidelity the success of the expedi- 
 tion mainly depended, were advancing apparently in the 
 most contented and friendly manner, when, in a moment, 
 without uttering a word, they sprang forward, and dis- 
 appeared in the woods, leaving the party, who were utterly 
 unacquainted with the route, in a state bordering on de- 
 spair.* Pushing forward, however, at a hazard, they per- 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 302. 
 
1793.] TERROR OF THE NATIVES. 175 
 
 eeived a house situated on a green spot by the edge of a 
 wood, the smoke of which curled above the trees, intimat- 
 ing that it was inhabited. Mackenzie advanced alone, as 
 his party were too much alarmed to second his intrepidity ; 
 and so intent were the inhabitants upon their household 
 labours, that he approached unperceived. Nothing could 
 exceed the terror and confusion occasioned by his sudden 
 appearance. The women and children uttered piercing 
 shrieks, and the only man about the place sprung out of a 
 back-door with the rapidity of a wild-cat, and fled into the 
 woods. Their dismay arose from the belief that they were 
 surprised by enemies, and would be instantly put to death — 
 an atrocity too common among the Indian tribes. The con- 
 duct of the man who had fled was amusing. By degrees 
 he crept sufficiently near to watch the party ; and on ob- 
 serving the kindness with which the women and children 
 were treated, came cautiously within speaking distance. 
 His eyes were still staring in his head. No assurances of 
 the interpreters or the women could persuade him to return ; 
 no beads, knives, or presents of any kind, had the effect of 
 restoring his confidence. On being approached, he kept 
 dodging about behind large trees, brandishing his bow and 
 arrows, grinning hideously, and displaying a variety of 
 strange antics, till at last, in one of his paroxysms, he dived 
 into a thicket and disappeared. As suddenly he emerged 
 in an opposite quarter, and becoming pacified, after a suc- 
 cession of parleys, agreed to accompany them as a guide. 
 
 On advancing from this station they travelled over an 
 elevated tract, and at length gained the summit <pf a hill, 
 affording a view of a range of mountains covered with 
 snow, which, according to the guide, terminated in the 
 ocean. Passing along the borders of several small lakes, 
 through a swampy country, they arrived at a lodge of 
 natives, who received them with hospitality, and minutely 
 
176 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. [1793. 
 
 scrutinized their appearance. The hair of the women was 
 tied in large loose knots over the ears, and plaited with 
 great neatness from the division of the head, so as to be 
 included in the knots. Some had their tresses adorned 
 with beads, producing a very graceful effect ; whilst the 
 men were clothed in leather, their hair nicely combed, their 
 complexion fair, and their skin cleanly. One young man 
 was at least six feet four inches in height, with a prepos- 
 sessing countenance, and affable and dignified manners. All, 
 not excepting the children, carried a burden proportioned 
 to their strength, consisting of beaver-coating and parch- 
 ment, skins of the otter, marten, bear, and lynx, besides 
 dressed moose- skins. These last they procured from the 
 Rocky Mountain Indians ; and for the purposes of trade 
 the people of the sea- coast preferred them to any others. 
 
 They now continued their journey through a beautiful 
 valley, watered by a gentle rivulet, to a range of hills 
 which they ascended till surrounded by snow so firm and 
 compact that it crunched under their feet. Before them 
 lay a stupendous mountain, whose summit, clad with the 
 same spotless coronet, was partly lost in the clouds. Be- 
 tween it and the route they were to follow flowed a broad 
 river; and descending from their present elevated ground, 
 they plunged into woods of lofty and umbrageous cedars 
 and alder trees.* As they got lower into these primeval 
 forests, they were sensible of an entire change of climate. 
 The guides pointed out to them, through the openings in 
 the dark foliage, the river which flowed in the distance, and 
 a village on its banks, whilst beneath their feet the ground 
 was covered with berries of an excellent flavour, and com- 
 pletely ripe. The effect of sunset upon this noble scenery 
 was strikingly beautiful; but their admiration was inter- 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, pp. 316, 317. 
 
1793.] VILLAGE IN THE FOREST. 177 
 
 rupted by the decampment of their guides, who, as the 
 shades of evening began to fall, pushed forward at such a 
 pace that the party were soon left without conductors, in 
 darkness and uncertainty. The men, who were much 
 fatigued, now proposed to take up their quarters for the 
 night; but their indefatigable leader groped his way for- 
 ward, and at length, arriving at the edge of the wood, per- 
 ceived the light of several fires. On coming up, he entered 
 a hut where the people were employed in cooking fish, 
 threw down his burden, and shook hands with the inmates, 
 who did not show any surprise, but gave him to understand 
 by signs that he should go to a large house, erected on 
 upright posts at some distance from the ground. A broad 
 piece of timber, with steps cut in it, led to a scaffolding on 
 a level with the floor; and ascending these, the traveller 
 entered the apartment, passed three fires at equal distances 
 in the middle of the room, and was cordially received by 
 several people seated on a wide board at the upper end. 
 Mackenzie took his place beside one whom, from his dig- 
 nified look, he took to be the chief. Soon after the rest of 
 the party arrived, and placed themselves near him; upon 
 which the chief arose and brought a quantity of roasted 
 salmon. Mats were then spread, and the fish placed be- 
 fore them. When the meal was concluded, their host 
 made signs which they supposed to convey a desire that 
 they should sleep under the same roof with himself; but 
 as his meaning was not sufficiently plain, they prepared 
 to bivouac without. Everything was done to render their 
 repose agreeable : — A fire was kindled, boards placed that 
 they might not sleep on the bare ground, and two delicate 
 dishes of salmon-roes, beat up to the consistency of thick 
 cream, and mixed with gooseberries and wood- sorrel, were 
 brought for supper. On awaking in the morning, they 
 found all their wants anticipated in the same hospitable 
 M 
 
178 SALMON FISHERY. [1793. 
 
 manner: a fire was already blazing, a plentiful breakfast 
 of roasted salmon and dried roes was provided, and a 
 regale of raspberries, whortleberries, and gooseberries, 
 finished the meal.* 
 
 Salmon was so abundant in this river that the people 
 had a constant supply. They had formed across the stream 
 an embankment for placing fishing-machines, which were 
 disposed both above and below it. For some reason, how- 
 ever, they would permit no near inspection of the weir ; 
 but it appeared to be four feet above the water, and was 
 constructed of alternate layers of gravel and small trees, 
 fixed in a slanting position. Beneath it were placed 
 machines into which the salmon fell in attempting to leap 
 over ; and on either side was a large timber frame six feet 
 above the water, in which passages were left leading 
 directly into the machines, whilst at the foot of the fall 
 dipping-nets were successfully employed. These people 
 were observed to indulge an extreme superstition regard- 
 ing their fish, refusing to taste flesh, and appearing to con- 
 sider such an act as a pollution. One of their dogs having 
 swallowed a bone which the travellers left, was beaten by 
 his master till he disgorged it; and a bone of a deer being 
 thrown into the river, a native dived, brought it up, con- 
 signed it to the fire, and carefully washed his hands. They 
 would not lend their canoes for the use of the party, having 
 observed some venison which they concluded was to be 
 stowed on board; and they alleged that the fish would 
 immediately smell it and leave them. Although generous 
 in furnishing the strangers with as much roasted fish as 
 they could consume, they would part with none in a raw 
 state: — They believed salmon to have an invincible anti- 
 pathy to iron, and were afraid that, if given raw to the 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 318-320. 
 
1793.] INDIAN MECHANICAL ARTS. 179 
 
 white men, they might take serious offence at being boiled 
 in a vessel of this ominous metal. In other respects no- 
 thing could exceed their friendliness ; and at a neighbour- 
 ing village belonging to the same tribe, the reception of 
 Mackenzie was if possible still more kind. The son of the 
 chief took from his own shoulders a beautiful robe of sea- 
 otter skin, and threw it over the traveller, whilst the father 
 expressed the utmost satisfaction in being presented with 
 a pair of scissors to clip his beard — a purpose to which, 
 with the eager delight of a child, he instantly applied them. 
 The houses in this village were constructed in the same 
 way as those already described, and remind us of the lively 
 account given by Mr. Meares. At a little distance, Mac- 
 kenzie observed some singular wooden buildings, which 
 he conjectured to be temples. They consisted of oblong 
 squares, about twenty feet high by eight broad, formed of 
 thick cedar-planks beautifully joined. Upon these were 
 painted hieroglyphics and figures of various animals, with 
 a remarkable degree of correctness. In the midst of the 
 village was a large building, at first supposed to be the 
 unfinished frame-work of a house. Its dimensions, how- 
 ever, were far greater than those of an ordinary dwelling, 
 the ground-plot being fifty feet by forty -five, each end 
 formed by four stout posts fixed perpendicularly in the 
 earth. The corner posts were unornamented, and sup- 
 ported a beam of the whole length, having three inter- 
 mediate props on each side. Two centre posts at each end, 
 about two feet and a half in diameter, were carved into^ 
 colossal human figures, supporting ridge-poles on theiir 
 heads ; the hands were placed on the knees, as if they felt 
 difficulty in sustaining the weight, whilst the figures op- 
 posite to them stood in an easy attitude, with their hands 
 resting on their hips. The posts, poles, and figures were 
 painted red and black, and the carving was executed with 
 
180 , MACKENZIE KEACHES THE SEA. [1793. 
 
 a truth and boldness which bespoke no little advancement 
 in sculpture.* In the mechanical arts they had arrived at 
 considerable perfection. The chief's canoe was of cedar, 
 forty-five feet long, four wide, and three feet and a half 
 deep. It was painted black, and ornamented with draw- 
 ings of various kinds of fish in white upon the dark ground, 
 and the gunwale, both fore and aft, was neatly inlaid with 
 the teeth of the sea-otter. In this vessel, according to the 
 old chiefs account, he undertook, about ten winters before, 
 a voyage towards the mid-day sun, having with him forty 
 of his subjects ; on which occasion he met with two large 
 vessels full of white men, the first he had seen, by whom 
 he was kindly received. Mackenzie very plausibly con- 
 jectured that these might be the ships of Captain Cook. 
 
 It was now the 1 8th of July, and, surrounded by friendly 
 natives, with plenty of provisions, pleasant weather, and 
 the anticipation of speedily reaching the great object of 
 their wishes, they resumed their voyage in a large canoe, 
 accompanied by four of the Indians. The navigation of 
 the river, as they approached the ocean, was interrupted 
 by rapids and cascades; but their skill in surmounting 
 these impediments was now considerable, and on the 20th, 
 after a passage of thirty-six miles, they arrived at the 
 mouth of the river, which discharges itself by various 
 smaller channels into an arm of the Pacific Ocean. The 
 purpose of the expedition was now completed, and its in- 
 defatigable leader painted in large characters, upon the 
 face of the rock under whose shelter they had slept, this 
 simple memorial: — "Alexander Mackenzie from Canada 
 by land, the twenty-second of July, one thousand seven 
 hundred and ninety- three." The inscription was only 
 written in vermilion, and has probably long ago been 
 
 * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 331. 
 
1820.] franklin's first journey. 181 
 
 washed away by the fury of the elements ; but the name 
 of Mackenzie is enduringly consecrated in the annals of 
 discovery, as the first person who penetrated from sea to 
 sea across the immense continent of North America. His 
 return by the same route it is unnecessary to pursue. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Discoveries along the Shores of the Arctic Ocean. 
 
 First and Second Expeditions of Franklin — Voyage of Captain 
 Beechey. 
 
 The discoveries of Hearne and Mackenzie established the 
 great fact that there is a northern coast in America, washed 
 by the Arctic Ocean, which forms, in all probability, its 
 continuous boundary; and they demonstrated the practica- 
 bility of reaching this limit by passing over the vast plains 
 which stretch northward from Canada and Hudson's Bay. 
 The voyages of Captain Parry, also, which have been 
 already detailed,* fully corroborated this opinion; and it 
 appeared evident that another expedition, properly con- 
 ducted, might reach this shore, and more fully examine its 
 whole extent. Such an expedition, accordingly, sailed from 
 England on the 23d of May 1820, its command being 
 entrusted to Lieutenant, now Sir John Franklin, assisted 
 by Dr. Richardson, an able mineralogist and natural his- 
 torian. During the first portion of their journey, they 
 followed the chain of the great lakes, instead of the more 
 eastern track pursued by Hearne; and having descended 
 the Coppermine River, arrived, on 21st July, at the shore 
 of the Arctic Ocean, where they commenced their career of 
 
 * Polar Seas and Regions, 3d edit. p. 263—323. 
 
182 VOYAGE ALONG THE ARCTIC SHORES. [1820. 
 
 discovery. Important as were the particulars of their sur- 
 vey, when considered in relation to the furtherance of 
 geographical science, a minute detail is here unnecessary, 
 and we shall attempt only a general sketch. 
 
 Paddling along the coast to the eastward, on the inside 
 of a crowded range of islands, they encamped on shore after 
 a run of thirty- seven miles, in which they experienced little 
 interruption, and saw only a small iceberg in the distance, 
 though that beautiful luminous effulgence emitted from the 
 congregated ices, and distinguished by the name of the 
 ice-blink, was distinctly visible to the northward. The 
 coast was found of moderate height, easy of access, and 
 covered with vegetation; but the islands were rocky and 
 barren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. In 
 continuing their voyage, the dangers which beset a navi- 
 gator in these dreadful polar solitudes thickened gloomily 
 around them. The coast became broken and sterile, and 
 at length rose into a high and rugged promontory, against 
 which some large masses of ice had drifted, threatening 
 destruction to their slender canoes. In attempting to round 
 this cape the wind rose, an awful gloom involved the sky, 
 and the thunder burst over their heads, compelling them to 
 encamp till the storm subsided. They then, at the immi- 
 nent risk of having the canoes crushed by the floating ice, 
 doubled the dreary promontory, which they denominated 
 Cape Barrow, and entered Detention Harbour, where they 
 landed. Around them the land consisted of mountains of 
 granite, rising abruptly from the water's edge, destitute 
 of vegetation, and attaining an elevation of fourteen or 
 fifteen hundred feet; seals and small deer were the only 
 animals seen, and the former were so shy that all attempts 
 to approach within shot were unsuccessful. With the 
 deer the hunters were more fortunate, but these were 
 not numerous ; and whilst the ice closed gradually around 
 
1820.] CAPE KATER AND BANKES* PENINSULA. 183 
 
 them, and their little stock of provisions, consisting of 
 pemmican and cured beef, every day diminished, it was 
 impossible not to regard their situation with uneasiness. 
 Rounding Cape Kater, they entered Arctic Sound, and sent 
 a party to explore a river upon the banks of which they 
 expected to find an Esquimaux encampment. All, how- 
 ever, was silent, desolate, and deserted; even these hardy 
 natives, bred amidst the polar ices, had removed from so 
 barren a spot, and the hunters returned with two small 
 deer and a brown bear, the latter animal so lean and sickly 
 looking, that the men declined eating it; but the officers 
 boiled its paws, and found them excellent. 
 
 Proceeding along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, to 
 which they gave the name of Bankes' Peninsula, the 
 expedition made its painful way along a coast indented by 
 bays, and in many places studded with islands, till, on 10th 
 August, they reached the open sea; and sailing, as they 
 imagined, between the continent and a large island, found 
 to their deep disappointment that, instead of an open chan- 
 nel, they were in the centre of a vast bay. The state of 
 the expedition now called for the most serious consideration 
 upon the part of their commander. So much time had 
 already been spent in exploring the sounds and inlets, that 
 all hope of reaching Repulse Bay was vain; both canoes 
 had sustained material injury; the fuel was expended; their 
 provisions were sufficient only for three days ; the appear- 
 ances of the setting in of the arctic winter were too unequi- 
 vocal to be mistaken; the deer, which had hitherto supplied 
 them with fresh meat, would, it was well known, soon 
 disappear ; the geese and other aquatic birds were already 
 seen winging their way to the southward ; while the men, 
 who had up to this moment displayed the utmost courage, 
 began to look disheartened, and to entertain serious appre- 
 hensions for their safety. Under these circumstances, 
 
184 LAND JOURNEY. [1820. 
 
 Franklin, with the concurrence of his officers, determined 
 not to endanger the lives of his people by a farther advance; 
 and after spending four days in a minute survey of the 
 bay, it was resolved to return by Hood's River to Fort 
 Enterprise. Franklin's researches, as far as prosecuted at 
 this time, favoured the opinion of those who contended for 
 the practicability of a north-west passage. It appeared 
 probable that the coast ran east and west in the latitude 
 assigned to Mackenzie's River, and little doubt could, in 
 his opinion, be entertained regarding the existence of a 
 continued sea in that direction. The portion over which 
 they passed was navigable for vessels of any size ; and the 
 ice met with after quitting Detention Harbour would not 
 have arrested a strong boat, whilst the chain of islands 
 afforded shelter from all heavy seas, and there were 
 good harbours at convenient distances. Having, with 
 much severe privation, completed their course, from 
 Point Turnagain in Melville Bay to the entrance of 
 Hood's River, they ascended as high as the first rapid, and 
 encamped, terminating here their voyage on the Arctic 
 Sea, during which they had gone over six hundred and 
 fifty geographical miles. 
 
 On the prospect of commencing their land journey, the 
 Canadians could not conceal their satisfaction; and the 
 evening previous to their departure was passed in talking 
 over their past adventures, and congratulating each other 
 in having at length turned their backs upon the sea, little 
 anticipating that the most painful and hazardous portion 
 of the expedition was yet to come. Before setting off, an 
 assortment of iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and 
 other articles, was put up in a conspicuous situation for the 
 Esquimaux, and the English union was planted on the 
 loftiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships 
 passing in the offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box, 
 
1820.] EXTREME COLD. 185 
 
 a letter containing an outline of the proceedings of the 
 expedition, the latitude and longitude of the principal places, 
 and the course intended to be pursued towards Slave Lake. 
 They now proceeded up the river in their canoes, and though 
 upon a short allowance of provisions, the produce of their 
 nets and fowling-pieces furnished for a few days enough to 
 ward off absolute want; but they were often on the very 
 brink of it. Their progress was much interrupted by shoals 
 and rapids, and one evening they encamped at the lower 
 end of a narrow chasm, the walls of which were upwards of 
 two hundred feet high, and in some places only a few yards 
 apart. Into this the river precipitates itself, forming two 
 magnificent cascades, to which they gave the name of 
 Wilberforce Falls. On taking a survey of its farther 
 course from a neighbouring hill, it was discovered to be so 
 rapid and shallow, that all progress in the large canoes 
 seemed impossible. Two smaller boats were therefore 
 constructed; and on 1st September they set off, with the 
 intention of proceeding in as direct a line as possible to the 
 part of Point Lake opposite their spring encampment — a 
 distance which appeared comparatively trifling, being only 
 one hundred and forty-nine miles. Their luggage consisted 
 of ammunition, nets, hatches, ice-chisels, astronomical in- 
 struments, clothing-blankets, three kettles, and the two 
 canoes, each so light as to be carried easily by a single 
 man. But disaster attacked them in their very first stage. 
 A storm of snow came on, accompanied by a high wind, 
 against which it was difficult to carry the canoes, that were 
 damaged by the falls of those who bore them. The ground 
 was covered by small stones, and much pain was endured 
 by the carriers, whose soft moose-skin shoes were soon cut 
 through. The cold was intense ; and on encamping they 
 looked in vain for wood ; a fire of moss was all they could 
 procure, which served them to cook their supper, but gave 
 
186 FAILURE OF PROVISIONS. [1820. 
 
 so little heat that they were glad to creep under their 
 blankets.* 
 
 Having ascended next morning one of the highest hills, 
 they ascertained that the river took a westerly course, and 
 Franklin, thinking that to follow it farther would lead to a 
 more tedious journey than their exhausted strength could 
 endure, determined to quit its banks and make directly for 
 Point Lake. Emerging, therefore, from the valley, they 
 crossed a barren country, varied only by marshy levels and 
 small lakes. The weather was fine, but unfortunately no 
 berry-bearing plants were found, the surface being covered 
 in the more humid spots with a few grasses, and in other 
 places with some gray melancholy lichens. On encamping, 
 the last piece of pemmican, or pounded flesh, was distri- 
 buted, with a little arrow-root, for supper. The evening 
 was warm ; but dark clouds overspread the sky, and they 
 experienced those sudden alternations of climate which 
 occur in the polar latitudes at this season. At midnight 
 it rained in torrents ; but towards morning a snow-storm 
 arose, accompanied by a violent gale. During the whole 
 day the storm continued, and not having the comfort of a 
 fire the men remained in bed, but the tents were frozen ; 
 around them the snow had drifted to the depth of three 
 feet, and even within lay several inches thick on their 
 blankets. Though the storm had not abated, any longer 
 delay was impossible, for they knew every hour would 
 increase the intensity of an arctic winter ; and though faint 
 from fasting, and with their clothes stiffened by frost, it 
 was absolutely necessary to push forward. They suffered 
 much in packing the frozen tents and bedclothes, and could 
 hardly keep their hands out of their fur mittens. On 
 attempting to move, Franklin was seized with a fainting 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 399. 
 

 1820.] cracroft's river. 187 
 
 fit, occasioned by hunger and exhaustion, and on recovering 
 refused to eat a morsel of portable soup, which was imme- 
 diately prepared for him, as it had to be drawn from the 
 only remaining meal of the party. The people, however, 
 kindly crowded round, and overcame his reluctance. The 
 effect of eating was his rapid recovery ; and the expedition 
 moved on. 
 
 Disaster now crowded on disaster. The wind rose so 
 high, that those who carried the canoes were frequently 
 blown down, and one of the boats was so much shattered 
 as to be rendered unserviceable. The ground was covered 
 with snow ; and though the swamps were frozen, yet the 
 ice was often not sufficiently strong ; so that they plunged 
 in knee- deep. A fire, however, was made of the bark and 
 timbers of the broken canoe ; and, after having fasted three 
 days, their last meal of portable soup and arrow- root was 
 cooked. Each man's allowance at this melancholy dinner 
 was exceedingly scanty ; but it allayed the pangs of hunger, 
 and encouraged them to press forward at a quicker rate. 
 They had now reached a more hilly country, strewed with 
 large stones, and covered with gray lichen, well known to 
 the Canadians by its name tripe de roche. In cases 1 of 
 extremity, it is boiled and eaten ; but its taste is nauseous, 
 its quality purgative, and it sometimes produces an intoler- 
 able griping and loathing. The party not being aware of 
 this, gathered a considerable quantity. A few partridges 
 also had been shot ; and at night some willows were dug 
 up from under the snow, with which they lighted a fire and 
 cooked their supper. 
 
 Next day they came to Cracroft's River, flowing to the 
 westward over a channel of large stones, that rendered it 
 impossible to cross in the canoe. No alternative was left 
 but to attempt a precarious passage over some rocks at a 
 rapid j and in effecting this, some of the men, losing their 
 
188 CONGECATHAWHACHAGA. [1820. 
 
 balance, slipt into the water. They were instantly rescued 
 by their companions; but so intense was the frost, that 
 their drenched clothes became caked with ice, and they 
 suffered much during the remainder of the day's march. 
 The hunters had fallen in with some partridges, which they 
 shot, and they found enough of roots to make a fire; so 
 that their supper, though scanty, was comparatively com- 
 fortable. Next morning they pushed forward with ardour, 
 and passed the River Congecathawhachaga of Mr Hearne. 
 The country which lay before them was hilly, and covered 
 with snow to a great depth. The sides of the hills were 
 traversed by sharp angular rocks, where the drifted snow, 
 filling up the interstices, presented a smooth but fallacious 
 surface, which often gave way and precipitated them into 
 the chasms with their heavy loads. In this painful and 
 arduous manner they struggled forward several days, feed- 
 ing on the tripe de roche, which was so frozen to the rocks, 
 that their hands were benumbed before a meal could be 
 collected, and so destitute of nutritive juices, that it allayed 
 hunger only for a very short time. At length reaching the 
 summit of a hill, they, to their great delight, beheld a herd 
 of musk-oxen feeding in the valley below ; an instant halt 
 was made, the best hunters were called out, and whilst they 
 proceeded with extreme caution in a circuitous route, their 
 companions watched their proceedings with intense anxiety. 
 "When near enough to open their fire, the report reverbe- 
 rated through the hills, and one of the largest cows was 
 seen to fall. " This success," says Franklin, in that simple 
 and beautiful account of his journey which any change of 
 language would only weaken, " infused spirit into our starv- 
 ing party. The contents of its stomach were devoured upon 
 the spot ; and the raw intestines, which were next attacked, 
 were pronounced by the most delicate of the party to be 
 excellent. A few willows, whose tops were seen peeping 
 
1820.] PROVIDENTIAL SUPPLY. 189 
 
 through the snow in the bottom of the valley, were quickly- 
 grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper cooked and devoured 
 with avidity. It was the sixth day since we had had a good 
 meal. I do not think that we witnessed, through the course 
 of our journey, a more striking proof of the wise dispensa- 
 tion of the Almighty, and of the weakness of our own judg- 
 ment, than on this day. We had considered the dense fog 
 which prevailed throughout the morning as almost the 
 greatest inconvenience which could have befallen us, since 
 it rendered the air extremely cold, and prevented us from 
 distinguishing any distant object towards which our course 
 could be directed. Yet this very darkness enabled the 
 party to get to the top of the hill, which bounded the valley 
 wherein the musk-oxen were grazing, without being per- 
 ceived. Had the herd discovered us and taken alarm, our 
 hunters, in their present state of debility, would in all pro- 
 bability have failed in approaching them." * 
 
 On the following day a strong southerly wind blowing 
 with a snow-drift, they took a day's rest, and as only enough 
 remained of the musk-ox to serve for two days, they con- 
 tented themselves with a single meal. Next morning, 
 though the gale had not diminished, they pushed forward, 
 and notwithstanding their rest and recent supply of animal 
 food, the whole party felt greater weakness than they had 
 hitherto experienced. The weather was hazy, but after an 
 hour's march the sky cleared, and they found themselves 
 on the borders of a lake, of which they could not discern 
 the termination in either direction. In these circumstances 
 they travelled along its banks to the westward, in search 
 of a crossing -place. Credit, one of the Canadians, left the 
 party in hopes of falling in with deer, but did not return ; 
 and on encamping in the evening, hungry and fatigued, 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, vol. iv. p. 13, small edition of 1829. 
 
190 SUFFERINGS FROM FAMINE. [1820. 
 
 they had to divide for supper a single partridge and some 
 tripe de roche. This weed from the first had been unpala- 
 table, but now became insupportably nauseous, and began 
 in many to produce severe pains and bowel-complaints, 
 especially in Mr. Hood, one of the young officers attached 
 to the expedition. This solitary partridge was the last 
 morsel of animal food that remained; and they turned 
 with deep anxiety to the hope of catching some fish in the 
 lake, but discovered that the persons intrusted with them 
 had improvidently thrown away three of the nets and 
 burnt the floats on leaving Hood's River. Things now 
 began to look very gloomy ; and as the men were daily 
 getting weaker, it was judged expedient to lighten their 
 burdens of everything except ammunition, clothing, and 
 the instruments necessary to guide them on their way. 
 The dipping-needle, the azimuth compass, the magnet, a 
 large thermometer, and the few books they carried, were 
 therefore deposited at this encampment, after they had torn 
 out from these last the tables necessary for working the 
 latitude and longitude. Rewards also were promised by 
 Franklin to such of the party as should kill any animals, 
 and in the morning they prepared to go forward. 
 
 At this moment a fine trait of disinterestedness occurred : 
 As the officers assembled round a small fire, enduring an 
 intense degree of hunger which they had no means of satis- 
 fying, Perrault, one of the Canadians, presented each of 
 them with a piece of meat out of a little store which he had 
 saved from his allowance. " It was received," says Frank- 
 lin, " with great thankfulness, and such an instance of self- 
 denial and kindness filled our eyes with tears." Pressing 
 forward to a river issuing from the lake, they met their 
 comrade, Credit, and received the joyful intelligence that 
 he had killed two deer. One of these was immediately cut 
 up and prepared for breakfast; and having sent some of 
 
1820.] CANOE SWAMPED. 191 
 
 the party for the other, the rest proceeded down the river, 
 which was about three hundred yards broad, in search of a 
 place to cross. Having chosen a spot where the current 
 was smooth, immediately above a rapid, Franklin and two 
 Canadian boatmen, St. Germain and Belanger, pushed from 
 the shore. The breeze was fresh, and the current stronger 
 than they imagined, so that they approached the very edge 
 of the rapid ; and Belanger employing his paddle to steady 
 the canoe, lost his balance, and overset the bark in the 
 middle of it. The party clung to its side, and reaching a 
 rock where the stream was but waist-deep, kept their footing 
 till the canoe was emptied of water, after which Belanger 
 held it steady, while St. Germain replaced Franklin in it, 
 and dexterously leaped in himself. Such was their situa- 
 tion, that if the man who stood on the rock had raised his 
 foot, they would have been lost. His friends therefore were 
 compelled to leave him, and after a second disaster, in which 
 the canoe struck, and was as expeditiously righted as before, 
 they reached the opposite bank. Meanwhile Belanger 
 suffered extremely, immersed to his middle, and enduring 
 intense cold. He called piteously for relief, and St. Ger- 
 main re- embarking, attempted to reach him, but was hurried 
 down the rapid, and on coming ashore was so benumbed as 
 to be incapable of farther exertion. A second effort, but 
 equally unsuccessful, was made by Adam : they then tried 
 to carry out a line formed of the slings of the men's loads, 
 but it broke, and was carried down the stream. At last, 
 when he was almost exhausted, the canoe reached him with 
 a small cord of one of the remaining nets, and he was dragged 
 to shore quite insensible. On being stripped, rolled in 
 blankets, and put to bed between two men, he recovered. 
 During these operations Franklin was left alone upon the 
 bank, and it seemed a matter of the utmost doubt whether 
 he should be ever rejoined by his companions. " It is im- 
 
192 DESOLATE SITUATION. [1820. 
 
 possible," says he, " to describe my sensations as I witnessed 
 the various unsuccessful attempts to relieve Belanger. The 
 distance prevented my seeing distinctly what was going 
 on, and I continued pacing up and down the rock on which 
 I stood, regardless of the coldness of my drenched and 
 stiffening garments. The canoe, in every attempt to reach 
 him, was hurried down the rapid, and was lost to view 
 amongst the rocky islets, with a fury which seemed to 
 threaten instant destruction; once, indeed, I fancied that 
 I saw it overwhelmed in the waves : such an event would 
 have been fatal to the whole party. Separated as I was 
 from my companions, without gun, ammunition, hatchet, 
 or the means of making a fire, and in wet clothes, my doom 
 would have been speedily sealed. My companions, too, 
 driven to the necessity of coasting the lake, must have 
 sunk under the fatigue of rounding its innumerable arms 
 and bays, which, as we learned afterwards from the Indians, 
 are extensive. By the goodness of Providence, however, 
 we were spared at that time, and some of us have been 
 permitted to offer up our thanksgiving in a civilized land 
 for the signal deliverance we then and afterwards ex- 
 perienced." * 
 
 On setting out next morning, Perrault brought in a fine 
 male deer, which raised the spirits of the party, as it 
 secured them in provisions for two days ; and they trusted 
 to support themselves for a third on the skin which they 
 carried with them. Having ascended the Willingham 
 Mountains, they entered upon a rugged country, intersected 
 by deep ravines, the passage of which was so difficult, that 
 they could only make ten miles with great fatigue. The 
 deer was now picked to the last morsel, and they ate pieces 
 of the singed hide with a little tripe de roche. At other 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 410, 411. 
 
1820.] TRIPE DE ROCHE FAILS. 193 
 
 times this meal might have sufficed; but, exhausted by 
 slender food and continued toil, their appetites had become 
 ravenous. Hitherto events had been so mercifully ordered, 
 that in their utmost need some little supply in the tripe de 
 roche had never failed them; but it was the will of God 
 that their confidence should be yet more strongly tried; 
 for they now entered upon a level country covered with 
 snow, where even this miserable lichen was no longer to 
 be found ; and a bed of Iceland moss, which was boiled for 
 supper, proved so bitter that none of the party, though 
 enduring the extremities of hunger, could taste more than 
 a few spoonfuls. Another distress now attacked them : 
 the intensity of the cold increased, while they became less 
 fit to endure it. Their blankets did not suffice to keep 
 them warm, and the slightest breeze pierced through their 
 debilitated frames. "The reader," says Franklin, "will 
 probably be desirous to know how we passed our time in 
 such a comfortless situation. The first operation after 
 encamping was to thaw our frozen shoes, if a sufficient fire 
 could be made; dry ones were then put on. Each person 
 then wrote his notes of the daily occurrences, and evening 
 prayers were read. As soon as supper was prepared it was 
 eaten, generally in the dark, and we went to bed, and kept 
 up a cheerful conversation until our blankpts were thawed 
 by the heat of our bodies, and we had gathered sufficient 
 warmth to enable us to fall asleep. On many nights we 
 had not even the luxury of going to bed in dry clothes ; 
 for, when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes, we 
 dared not venture to pull them off, lest they should freeze 
 so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morning, and there- 
 fore inconvenient to carry." * 
 
 Hunger, fatigue, and disappointment, began now to have 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 414. 
 
194 INSUBORDINATION. [1820. 
 
 a calamitous effect upon the tempers of the men. One, 
 who carried the canoe, after several severe falls, threw 
 down his burden, and obstinately refused to resume it. It 
 was accordingly given to another, who proved stronger, 
 and pushed forward at so rapid a rate that Mr. Hood, whose 
 weakness was now extreme, could not keep up with them; 
 and as Franklin attempted to pursue and stop them, the 
 whole party were separated. Dr. Richardson, who had 
 remained behind to gather tripe de roche, joined him, and 
 on advancing they found the men encamped among some 
 willows, where they had found some pieces of skin and a 
 few bones of deer which had been devoured by the wolves. 
 On these they had made a meal, having burnt and pounded 
 the bones, boiled the skin, and added their old shoes to the 
 mess. With this no fault could be found; but on questioning 
 the person to whom the canoe had been intrusted, it was dis- 
 covered that he had left the boat behind, it having, as he 
 said, been broken by a fall, and rendered entirely useless. 
 
 To the infatuated obstinacy of the men in refusing to 
 retrace their steps and fetch it, even in its shattered state, 
 is to be ascribed much of the distress of their subsequent 
 journey. Every argument and entreaty seemed entirely 
 thrown away; and they had apparently lost all hope of 
 being preserved. When the hunters, who had been out 
 for some time, did not make their appearance, they became 
 furious at the idea of having been deserted, and throwing 
 down their bundles, declared they would follow them at all 
 hazards, and leave the weakest to keep up as they best 
 could. The remonstrances of the officers at length opened 
 their minds to the madness of such a scheme; and on en- 
 camping in the evening, they found some pines seven or 
 eight feet high, which furnished a comfortable fire, when 
 they made their supper on tripe de roche. Next morning 
 a herd of deer came in sight, and they killed five — a 
 
1820.] THE COPPERMINE RIVER. 195 
 
 supply which, considering the extremity of hunger and 
 despair to which they were reduced, was especially provi- 
 dential. It was evident that He, without whom not a 
 sparrow falls to the ground, was with them in their extre- 
 mity of distress ; and, casting themselves upon his care, 
 every heart expanded with hope and gratitude. 
 
 The Canadians now earnestly petitioned for a day's rest. 
 They pleaded their recent sufferings, and that the enjoy- 
 ment of two substantial meals, after eight days' famine, 
 would enable them to press forward more vigorously. The 
 flesh, the skins, and even the stomachs of the deer, were 
 accordingly equally divided among the party, and some of 
 them suffered severely from too free an indulgence in the 
 use of this food after so long an abstinence. Next morning 
 the party resumed their journey, and after a walk of three 
 miles, came to the Coppermine River. Its current was 
 strong ; but with a canoe there would have been no diffi- 
 culty in crossing; and the reckless folly of the men, 
 in abandoning their only means of transport, was now 
 brought strongly to their mind. No ford could be dis- 
 covered, and the plan was suggested of framing a vessel of 
 willows, covered with the canvass of the tent; but the 
 most experienced boatmen declared the willows were too 
 small to bear the weight, and no pines could be found. 
 Nothing remained but to resume their march along the 
 borders of the lake ; and looking out eagerly, but in vain, 
 for some fordable place, they encamped at the east end. 
 Anxious to adopt every possible means for preserving the 
 party, Franklin sent Mr. Back forward with the interpre- 
 ters to hunt. He was directed to halt at the first pines, 
 and construct a raft; and if his hunters had killed animals 
 sufficient to provision them, he was to cross immediately, 
 and send the Indians with supplies of meat to the party 
 behind. 
 
196 A EAFT CONSTRUCTED. [1820. 
 
 At this time it was discovered that two of the men had 
 stolen part of the officers' provision, though it had been 
 doled out with the strictest impartiality, and they saw 
 their leaders suffering more acutely than themselves. To 
 punish this was impossible, except by the threat that they 
 should forfeit their wages, which produced little effect. 
 Despondency had deeply seized upon the party, and in the 
 morning strict orders could not prevent them from strag- 
 gling in search of the remains of animals; in consequence 
 of which much time was lost in halting, and ammunition 
 in firing guns to collect them. The snow, however, had 
 disappeared, and pressing forward with more alacrity, 
 they came to an arm of the lake running north-east. The 
 idea of making the long circuit round it was distressing ; 
 and having halted to consult what was to be done, some 
 one discovered in a cliff the carcass of a deer which had 
 fallen into a chasm. It was quite putrid, but even in that 
 state appeared delicious, and a fire being kindled, a large 
 portion was rapidly devoured ; whilst the men, cheered by 
 this unexpected breakfast, regained their confidence, and 
 requested leave to return to the rapid, insisting on the 
 practicability of making a sufficiently strong raft of willows, 
 though they had formerly pronounced it impossible. Their 
 advice was followed; and having sent off Augustus, one of 
 the interpreters, to inform Mr. Back of this change of 
 plan, they commenced their retrograde movement, and 
 encamped at night in a deep valley among some large 
 willows, where they supped on the remains of the putrid 
 deer. 
 
 Next day they regained the rapids, commenced cutting 
 willows for the raft, and a reward of three hundred livres 
 was promised by Franklin to the person who should convey 
 a line across the river strong enough to manage the raft 
 and transport the party. The willows when cut were 
 

 1820.] Richardson's generosity. 197 
 
 bound into fagots, and the work completed ; but the green- 
 ness of the wood rendered it heavy, and incapable of sup- 
 porting more than one man at a time. Still they hoped 
 to be able to cross ; but all depended on getting a line 
 carried to the opposite bank, through a current one hun- 
 dred and thirty yards wide, strong, deep, and intensely 
 cold. Belanger and Benoit, the two strongest men of the 
 party, repeatedly attempted to take the raft over, but for 
 want of oars were driven back. The tent- staves were then 
 tied together, and formed a strong pole; but it was not 
 long enough to reach the bottom even at a short distance 
 from the shore. Dr. Eichardson next produced a paddle 
 he had brought from the coast, but which was found not 
 powerful enough to impel the raft against a strong breeze. 
 The failure of every attempt occasioned a deep despondency, 
 which threatened to have the most fatal effects, when Dr. 
 Richardson, with a disinterested courage that made him 
 forget his own weakness, threw off his upper garments, and 
 attempted to swim with a rope to the opposite bank. 
 Plunging in with a line round his middle, he at first made 
 some way, but the extreme cold was too much for him, and 
 in a few moments his arms became powerless ; still, being 
 an expert swimmer, he not only kept himself afloat, but 
 made way by turning on his back and using his legs, so 
 that he had nearly reached the other side, when, to the in- 
 expressible anguish of those who watched his progress, his 
 limbs became benumbed, and he sank. All hands now 
 hauled on the line, and drew him ashore almost lifeless; 
 but, placed before a fire of willows and stript of his wet 
 clothes, he gradually revived enough to give directions as 
 to the mode of treating him. His thin and emaciated limbs, 
 which were now exposed to view, produced an involuntary 
 exclamation of compassion and surprise: — "Ah, que nous 
 sommes maigres!" said the French Canadians; but it is 
 
198 ACCUMULATED SUFFERINGS. [1820. 
 
 probable that few of them would have presented so gaunt 
 and attenuated an appearance as the brave and excellent 
 man who had thus nearly fallen a sacrifice to his humanity, 
 for it was discovered about this time that the hunters were 
 in the practice of withholding the game which they shot, 
 and devouring it in secret.* 
 
 Soon after this the party were joined by Mr. Back, who 
 had traced the lake about fifteen miles farther up without 
 discovering any place where it was possible to get across; 
 and towards evening, Credit, who had been out hunting, 
 returned without any game of his own killing, but brought 
 the antlers and backbone of a deer shot during the summer. 
 These relics had been already picked clean by the wolves 
 and birds of prey, but the marrow remained in the spine; 
 and though completely putrid, and so acrid as to excoriate 
 the lips, it was not the less acceptable. The bones were 
 rendered friable by burning, and the whole eagerly de- 
 voured. St. Germain, one of the voyagers, now suggested 
 that a canoe might be made of the painted canvass used to 
 wrap up the bedding, and offered to construct it upon a 
 framework of willows. For this purpose he and Adam 
 removed to a clump of willows, whilst another party pro- 
 ceeded to the spot where they had encamped on the 25th, 
 to collect pitch amongst the small pines to pay over the 
 seams. A snow-storm at this moment came on, and the 
 sufferings of the men hourly increasing, a deep gloom 
 settled upon their spirits. Mr. Hood was by this time re- 
 duced to a perfect shadow; Mr. Back required the support 
 of a stick ; Dr. Richardson was lame ; and Franklin so 
 feeble, that, after a struggle of three hours, he found him- 
 self utterly unable to reach the spot where St. Germain was 
 at work, a distance of only three quarters of a mile, and 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 423, 424. 
 
1820.] THE RIVER CROSSED. 199 
 
 returned completely exhausted. The Canadian voyagers 
 had now fallen into a state of despondency which bordered 
 on despair, and, indifferent to their fate, refused to make 
 the slightest exertion. The officers were unable to undergo 
 the labour of gathering the tripe de roche, and Samandre, 
 the cook, sullenly declined continuing his labours. At this 
 miserable crisis the conduct of John Hepburn, an English 
 sailor, was especially admirable, presenting a striking con- 
 trast to the gloomy selfishness of the Canadians. His firm 
 reliance on the watchful goodness of God, and a cheerful 
 resignation to his will, never for a moment forsook him; 
 and, animated by this blessed principle, his strength ap- 
 peared to be preserved as the means of saving the party. 
 He collected the tripe de roche for the officers' mess, cooked 
 and served it out, and showed the most indefatigable zeal 
 in his efforts to alleviate their sufferings. 
 
 A gleam of hope at length arose, when St. Germain 
 completed the canoe. It was impossible not to feel that 
 their last chance of escape seemed to hang upon this little 
 bark; would it prove sufficient for its purpose? or, con- 
 structed of such wretched materials, would it not at once 
 sink to the bottom? Amid this conflict of contending 
 emotions it was launched on the river, and every heart 
 bounded with exultation when it floated and St. Germain 
 transported himself to the opposite side. It was drawn 
 back, and, one by one, the whole party were ferried over, 
 though, from the leaky state of the little bark, their gar- 
 ments and bedding were completely drenched. Franklin 
 immediately despatched Mr. Back and three men to push 
 on to Fort Enterprise in search of the Indians, whilst he 
 himself followed with the rest. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the joy of the Canadian voyagers 
 at this unlooked-for deliverance. Their spirits rose from 
 the deepest despondency into tumultuous exultation. They 
 
200 SLOW PKOGRESS. [1820. 
 
 shook the officers by the hand, cried out that their worst 
 difficulties were at an end, and expressed a confident hope 
 of being able to reach Fort Enterprise in the course of a 
 few days — a boisterous and sudden confidence, to which the 
 silent gratitude and quiet resolution of the pious Hepburn 
 presented a striking contrast. 
 
 Their tents and bedclothes were so much frozen, and the 
 men, who had kindled a small fire, so weary, that it was 
 eight in the morning before the bundles were packed, and 
 the party set forward. They travelled in single files, each 
 at a small distance from his neighbour. Mr. Hood, who 
 was now nearly exhausted, was obliged to walk at a gentle 
 pace in the rear, Dr. Richardson kindly keeping beside him ; 
 whilst Franklin led the foremost men, that he might make 
 them halt occasionally till the stragglers came up. Credit, 
 hitherto one of their most active hunters, became lamentably 
 weak from the effects of tripe de roche on his constitution, 
 and Vaillant, from the same cause, was getting daily more 
 emaciated. They only advanced six miles during the day, 
 and at night satisfied the cravings of hunger by a small 
 quantity of tripe de roche mixed up with some scraps of 
 roasted leather. During the night the wind increased to 
 a strong gale, which continuing next day, besides being 
 piercingly cold, filled the atmosphere with a thick snow- 
 drift. Having boiled and eaten the remains of their old 
 shoes, and every shred of leather which could be picked up, 
 they set forward at nine over bleak hills separated by 
 equally barren valleys. 
 
 In this manner they journeyed till noon, not without 
 much straggling and frequent halts, at which time Samandre 
 came up with the melancholy news that Credit and Vaillant 
 had dropt down and were utterly unable to proceed. Dr. 
 Richardson went back, and discovering Vaillant about a 
 mile and a half in the rear, assured him a fire was kindled 
 

 1820.] TWO MEN LEFT IN THE SNOW. 201 
 
 a little way on, and that he would recover if he could but 
 reach it ; the poor fellow struggled up on his feet, and 
 feebly tried to advance, but fell down every step in the 
 deep snow. Leaving him, Dr. Richardson retraced his 
 steps about a mile farther in a fruitless search for Credit. 
 In returning he passed Vaillant, who had fallen down, 
 utterly unable to renew his efforts to rejoin the party. 
 Belanger went back to carry his burden and assist him to 
 the fire ; but the cold had produced such a numbness that 
 he could not speak or make the slightest exertion. The 
 stoutest of the party were now implored to make a last 
 effort to transport him to the fire, but declared themselves 
 utterly unable for the task. They eagerly requested leave 
 to throw down their loads, and proceed with the utmost 
 speed to Fort Enterprise — a scheme projected in the de- 
 spair of the moment, and which must have brought destruc- 
 tion upon the whole. 
 
 Matters had now reached a dreadful crisis; it was 
 necessary to come to an immediate decision regarding their 
 ultimate measures, and a plan proposed by Mr. Hood and 
 Dr. Richardson was adopted. These gentlemen consented 
 to remain with a single attendant at the first spot where 
 there were sufficient firewood and tripe de roche for ten 
 days' consumption, whilst Franklin and the rest were to 
 proceed with all expedition to Fort Enterprise, and to send 
 immediate assistance. This scheme promised to relieve 
 them of a considerable portion of their burdens — for one of 
 the tents and various other articles were to be left ; and it gave 
 poor Credit and Vaillant a fairer opportunity, should they 
 revive, of regaining their companions. On the resolution 
 being communicated to the men, they were cheered with 
 the prospect of an alleviation of their misery, and pressed 
 forward in search of a convenient spot for the proposed 
 separation. Near nightfall they encamped under the lee 
 
202 RICHARDSON AND HOOD REMAIN. [1820. 
 
 of a hill amongst some willows, which furnished a small fire, 
 but not sufficiently strong to thaw their frozen clothes ; and 
 no tripe de roche having been found during the day, they 
 lay down hungry, cold, and full of the gloomiest apprehen- 
 sions, whilst sleep fled from their eyelids, and the images 
 of their dying companions rose before their imagination in 
 colours which made them shudder for a fate that might so 
 soon become their own * Next morning the weather pro- 
 videntially was mild, and setting out at nine they arrived 
 towards noon at a thicket of willows, in the neighbourhood 
 of some rocks bearing a pretty full supply of tripe de roche. 
 Here Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood determined to remain. 
 The tent was pitched, a barrel of ammunition and other 
 articles were deposited, and Hepburn, who volunteered the 
 service, was appointed to continue with them. The rest of 
 the party now had only to carry a single tent, the ammu- 
 nition, and the officers' journals, in addition to their own 
 clothes and a single blanket for Captain Franklin. When 
 all was ready, the whole party united in thanksgiving and 
 prayers to Almighty God for their mutual preservation, 
 and separated with the melancholy reflection, that it might 
 in all probability be the last time they should ever again 
 meet in this world. 
 
 On leaving their friends, Captain Franklin and his party 
 descended into a more level country ; but the snow lay so 
 deep, that they were so little able to wade through it that 
 they encamped, after a painful march of only four miles 
 and a half, in which Belanger, and Michel, an Iroquois, 
 were left far behind, yet still struggling forward. In the 
 evening they came in dreadfully exhausted, and Belanger, 
 till now one of the strongest of the party, could not refrain 
 from tears as he declared he was totally unable to proceed, 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 431, 432. 
 
1820.] FRANKLIN PUSHES FORWARD. 203 
 
 and implored permission to return to Dr. Richardson and 
 Mr. Hood. Michel made the same request, and it was agreed 
 that they should do so. The cold of the night was exces- 
 sive, and the men were so weak that they could not raise 
 the tent ; from its weight it was impossible to transport it 
 from place to place, and it was cut up, the canvass serving 
 them for a covering ; but though they lay close together, 
 the intense frost deprived them of sleep. Having no tripe 
 de roche, they had supped upon an infusion of the Labrador 
 tea-plant, with a few morsels of burnt leather. Michel and 
 Belanger, being apparently more exhausted in the morning 
 than over night, were left, whilst the rest moved forward. 
 After a very short progress, Perrault was attacked with a 
 fit of dizziness ; but on halting a little, again proposed to 
 proceed. In ten minutes, however, he sunk down, and 
 weeping aloud, declared his total inability to go on. He 
 was accordingly advised to rejoin Michel and Belanger — a 
 proposal in which he acquiesced. These examples of the 
 total failure of the strongest in the party had a very un- 
 favourable effect on the spirits of the rest, and the exertion 
 of wading through the snow and crossing a lake on the ice, 
 where they were frequently blown down, was so severe, that 
 Fontano, after having repeatedly fallen, piteously com- 
 plained that he was utterly unable to go farther. Being 
 not two miles from the others, it was thought best that he 
 also should attempt to rejoin them ;* and as he was much 
 beloved, the parting was very distressing. They watched 
 him for some time, and were comforted by seeing that, 
 though his progress was very slow, he kept his feet better 
 than before. 
 
 The whole party was now reduced to five persons, 
 Captain Franklin, Adam, Peltier, Benoit, and Samandre, 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 436, 437. 
 
204 ARRIVAL AT FORT ENTERPRISE, [1820. 
 
 the interpreter Augustus having pressed forward by himself 
 during the late frequent halts. They made that day only 
 four miles and a half, and encamped for the night under 
 a rock, supping again on an infusion of the Labrador tea- 
 plant and some shreds of boiled leather. The evening was 
 comparatively mild, the breeze light, and having the com- 
 fort of a fire, they enjoyed some sleep. This was of infinite 
 advantage ; it gave them new spirits, which were farther 
 invigorated by a breakfast of tripe de roche, this being the 
 fourth day since they had a regular meal. On reaching 
 Marten Lake they found it frozen over — a circumstance 
 which they knew would enable them to walk upon the ice 
 straight to Fort Enterprise. 
 
 It may be easily imagined what were the sensations of 
 the party in approaching the spot which they trusted would 
 be the end of all their toils and privations. From the 
 arrangements previously made, it was judged certain that 
 they would here find relief, and be able to send assistance 
 to their unfortunate companions. It was a spot where they 
 had enjoyed at a former period of the expedition the 
 greatest comfort ; but it was possible, though they scarcely 
 permitted themselves to contemplate so dreadful an idea, 
 that circumstances might have occurred to defeat their 
 present expectations. On approaching the house their 
 minds were strongly agitated betwixt hope and fear, and 
 contrary to their usual custom, they advanced in silence. 
 At length they reached it, and their worst apprehensions 
 were realized. It was completely desolate. No provisions 
 had been deposited — no trace of Indians could be discovered 
 — no letter lay there from Mr. Wentzel to inform them 
 where the Indians might be found. On entering, a mute 
 despair seized the party. They gazed on the cold hearth, 
 comfortless walls, and broken sashes, through which the 
 wind and snow penetrated, and awakening to a full sense 
 

 1820.] WHICH IS FOUND DESERTED. 205 
 
 of the horrors of their situation, burst into tears.* On re- 
 covering a little, and looking round with more attention, a 
 note was found from Mr. Back, stating that having two 
 days before this reached the house, he had proceeded in 
 search of the Indians; but described his party as so 
 debilitated that it was doubtful whether they would be able 
 to reach Fort Providence. The sufferings endured by this 
 meritorious officer and his little party, one of whom was 
 frozen to death, were equally dreadful with those which fell 
 to the share of his excellent commander* -j- 
 
 The poor sufferers thus grievously disappointed, now 
 examined the deserted habitation for the means of sub- 
 sistence, and found several deer- skins thrown away during 
 their former residence at the fort. The heaps of ashes 
 were carefully raked, and a considerable collection of bones 
 discovered, which were hoarded up for the purpose of being 
 pounded and manufactured into soup. The parchment 
 originally employed instead of glass had been torn from 
 the windows, and the place was exposed to all the inclem- 
 ency of an arctic winter ; but they succeeded in filling the 
 sashes with loose boards, and as the temperature of the outer 
 air was now from 15° to 20° below zero, this precaution 
 was especially necessary. To procure water, they melted 
 the frozen lumps of snow, and the flooring of the neighbour- 
 ing apartment was broken up for fuel. 
 
 Having completed these arrangements, they assembled 
 round the fire, and were busy singeing the hair off a deer- 
 skin, when they were cheered by the entrance of the inter- 
 preter, who had made his way to the fort by a different 
 route, through a country he had never traversed before. 
 Though by far the strongest of the party, he was now so 
 enfeebled by famine that he could not follow two deer 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 438, 439. 
 
 f See Mr. Back's interesting Narrative, Franklin's Journey, p. 477. 
 
206 NOTE FROM MR. BACK. [1820. 
 
 which he had seen on his way. Next morning there was 
 a heavy gale from the south-east, and the snow drifted so 
 thick that no one ventured abroad. On the evening of the 
 succeeding day, a figure covered with ice, benumbed with 
 cold, and almost speechless, staggered into the house. It 
 was one of the Canadians, who had been despatched with a 
 note by Mr. Back, and having fallen into a rapid narrowly 
 escaped being drowned.* To change his dress, wrap him 
 in warm blankets, and pour some soup over his throat, was 
 their first care; and after a little he revived enough to 
 answer the anxious questions with which he was assailed. 
 From his replies but little comfort was derived. Mr. Back 
 had seen no trace of the Indians, and the messenger's re- 
 collection appeared confused with regard to the part of the 
 country where he had left his officer, who, as he stated, 
 intended to proceed to the spot where the Indian chief 
 Akaitcho had encamped last summer — a distance of about 
 thirty miles. Thither he proposed to follow when he was 
 a little recruited ; and, though dissuaded from the attempt, 
 persisted that as the track was beaten he would be able to 
 make it out, and to convey intelligence of the situation of 
 Captain Franklin's party. Accordingly, the fifth day after 
 his arrival, he departed from the fort with a small supply 
 of singed hide. 
 
 Not long after, Adam, one of the five men who now re- 
 mained with Captain Franklin, became so ill that he was 
 utterly incapable of moving, and it was discovered that he 
 had been for some time afflicted with oedematous swellings 
 in various parts of his body, which he had hitherto gener- 
 ously concealed, from a wish not to impede the movements 
 of his companions. As it was impossible for this poor man 
 to travel, it was necessary to abandon the original intention 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 440, 441. 
 
1820.] FKANKLIN ATTEMPTS TO PKOCEED. 207 
 
 of proceeding with the whole party to Fort Providence, and 
 Peltier and Samandre, who were in almost as weak a state, 
 having expressed a wish to remain with Adam, Captain 
 Franklin, along with Augustus and Benoit, determined to 
 press on to Fort Providence, and to send relief to their 
 companions by the first party of Indians they should meet. 
 Having accordingly given directions regarding the jour- 
 nals and charts which were left in their custody, and the 
 best mode of forwarding succour to Mr. Hood and Dr. 
 Richardson, Franklin set forward with his two attendants ; 
 but so feeble had they become, that the distance accom- 
 plished in six hours was only four miles. They encamped 
 on the borders of Round Rock Lake, and, unable to find 
 any tripe de roche, made their supper upon fried deer- skin. 
 The night proved intensely cold, and although they crept 
 as close to each other as possible, they shivered in every 
 limb, and the wind pierced through their famished frames.* 
 Next morning was mild, and they set out early, but had 
 scarce proceeded a few yards, when Franklin fell between 
 two rocks, and broke his snow-shoes, an accident which 
 incapacitated him from keeping up with Benoit and Au- 
 gustus. In a very short time his attempt to press forward 
 completely exhausted him ; and as the only hope of pre- 
 serving the lives of the party appeared to rest on their 
 speedily reaching Fort Providence, he determined, rather 
 than retard them, to retrace his steps to the house, whilst 
 they proceeded for assistance. Calling a moment's halt, 
 he addressed one note to Mr. Back, requesting an imme- 
 diate supply of meat from Rein Deer Lake, and another to 
 the commandant at Fort Providence, with urgent entreaties 
 for assistance. This done, Augustus and Benoit resumed 
 their journey, and Franklin returned to the house. 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 444. 
 
208 FRANKLIN JOINED BY HIS FRIENDS, [1820. 
 
 On arriving, he found Adam, Samandre, and Peltier 
 still alive; but the two first, whose minds seemed quite 
 enfeebled, could not be prevailed on to leave their bed, 
 and their nervous weakness was so great that they scarcely 
 ceased shedding tears all day. It was even with difficulty 
 that they were prevailed on to take any nourishment ; and 
 the labour of cutting and carrying fuel, gathering the tripe 
 de roche, and cooking, fell entirely upon Franklin and 
 Peltier. The frost was now so severe, that it was evident 
 this lichen would soon be bound up in ice, and as their 
 strength daily declined, every exertion became irksome. 
 When once seated, it required a painful effort to rise up, 
 and not unfrequently they had to lift each other from their 
 chairs. This miserable condition could not last long. Pel- 
 tier soon became almost incapable of holding the hatchet ; 
 the bone- soup had become so acrid as to corrode the inside 
 of their mouths ; the tripe de roche, covered with ice, defied 
 all efforts to detach it from the rock ; and though the rein- 
 deer sported on the banks of the river, no one had strength 
 to go after them, or to hold a gun so steadily as to secure 
 an aim. 
 
 Still the hopes and cheerfulness of Franklin did not de- 
 sert him. From his knowledge of the places mostly fre- 
 quented at that season by the Indians, he was sanguine as 
 to the likelihood of their being found ; and their speedy 
 arrival formed a constant subject of conversation. At 
 length, on the evening of the 29th, when talking of his 
 long-looked-for relief, and sitting round the fire, Peltier 
 suddenly leapt up and uttered a joyful exclamation, ima- 
 gining he heard the bustle of the Indians in the adjoining 
 room. It was not the Indians, however, but Dr. Richard- 
 son and Hepburn, who came in, each carrying his bundle. 
 The meeting was one of mingled joy and sorrow. Poor 
 Hood's absence was instantly perceived, and their saddest 
 

 1820.] DR. RICHARDSON AND HEPBURN. 209 
 
 anticipations were confirmed by Dr. Richardson declaring 
 that this young officer and Michel were dead, and that 
 neither Perrault nor Fontano had reached the tent, or been 
 heard of. Such news could not fail to create despondency. 
 All were shocked at the emaciated countenances and hollow 
 voices of Dr. Richardson and his companion, while Captain 
 Franklin and his fellow-sufferers, having become gradually 
 accustomed to the dreadful effects of famine upon each other, 
 were not aware that, to the eyes of their friends who had 
 just arrived, the alteration upon themselves was equally 
 melancholy. "The doctor," says Franklin, "particularly 
 remarked the sepulchral tone of our voices, which he re- 
 quested us to make more cheerful if possible, not aware 
 that his own partook of the same key."* 
 
 The arrival of these friends, however, was soon attended 
 with a favourable change. Though greatly reduced, they 
 were still in a better condition than their unfortunate com- 
 panions, and it was not long till Hepburn shot a partridge. 
 Dr. Richardson speedily tore off the feathers, and having 
 held it for a few minutes at the fire, divided it into six 
 pieces : Franklin and his companions ravenously devoured 
 their portions, " being the first morsel of flesh that any of 
 them had tasted for thirty-one days;" and Dr. Richardson 
 cheered them with the prospect that Hepburn might pos- 
 sibly bring in a deer in his next expedition. The counsels 
 and example of this pious and intelligent man produced the 
 best effects on the spirits of the party. He had brought 
 with him his Testament and Prayer-book, and by reading 
 portions of Scripture appropriate to their situation, and en- 
 couraging them to join in prayer and thanksgiving, he led 
 them to the only source whence, under the awful circum- 
 stances in which they were placed, they could derive hope 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 447. 
 
210 HAPPY EFFECTS OF HEPBURN'S COUNSELS. [1820. 
 
 or consolation. He taught them the necessity of exertion, 
 whatever pain it might at first cost ; roused them to pay- 
 some attention to the cleanliness of their apartment, and 
 insisted particularly, that during the day they should roll 
 up their blankets, which they had been in the practice of 
 leaving beside the fire where they slept. Their several 
 tasks were now allotted to each : Hepburn and Richardson 
 went out in search of deer ; while Franklin, being unable 
 to walk far, remained nearer the house, and digged under 
 the snow for skins, which, during their former happy winter 
 residence at this station, when they killed and ate abun- 
 dance of game, were thrown away as useless, but now in 
 their almost putrid state formed their principal support. 
 The cutting of firewood was intrusted to Peltier and Sa- 
 mandre ; but both were so weak and dispirited, that it was 
 generally performed by Hepburn on his return from hunt- 
 ing ; as for Adam, his legs were still so severely swollen 
 that he kept his bed, though an operation performed by 
 Dr. Richardson gave him some ease. In the midst of 
 these necessary cares, all seemed for a while to dread ap- 
 proaching the subject of Hood and Michel's death ; but at 
 length one evening, on the return of the doctor from hunt- 
 ing, and after having despatched their usual supper of 
 singed skin and bone- soup, they requested him to relate 
 the particulars, and a more afflicting, or, in some respects, 
 a more terrific story, as it appears in his published narra- 
 tive, could not well be conceived. 
 
 He stated, that after being left by Captain Franklin, 
 they remained beside the fire as long as it lasted. Having 
 no tripe de roche, they supped on an infusion of the country 
 tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth, but afforded 
 no nourishment, and retired to rest. Next day proved 
 stormy, and the snow being so deep that a fire could not 
 be kindled with the green willows, they lay in bed reading 
 
1820.] Richardson's narrative. 211 
 
 some religious books with which the party had been fur- 
 nished before leaving England by the affectionate and pious 
 care of a lady. " They proved," says Richardson, " of in- 
 calculable benefit to us. We read portions of them to each 
 other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and 
 evening service, and found that they inspired us on each 
 perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a 
 beneficent God, that our situation in these wilds appeared 
 no longer destitute; and we conversed not only with calm- 
 ness, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained con- 
 fidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope 
 upon our future prospects."* 
 
 The weather clearing up, Dr. Richardson went out in 
 search of tripe de roche, leaving Mr. Hood in bed, and 
 Hepburn cutting willows for a fire; but the rocks were 
 covered with ice and snow, and he was unsuccessful. On 
 his return he found Michel, the Iroquois, who delivered 
 the note from Franklin. -J- All were surprised to see him 
 alone; but he stated that Belanger had separated from him, 
 and, as he supposed, lost his way, he himself having wan- 
 dered far from the straight road. They had afterwards 
 good reason to suspect the truth of this story, but believed 
 it at that moment, and were rejoiced to see him produce a 
 hare and a partridge — an unlooked-for supply, which they 
 received with humble thankfulness to the Giver of all good. 
 Franklin's note advised them to advance to a little wood of 
 pines which would afford better fuel ; and to thi3 they re- 
 moved under the guidance of Michel, who led them straight 
 to the spot. 
 
 As he had declared himself so little acquainted with the 
 country as to lose his way, it seemed strange that he should 
 at once conduct them to the thicket. This roused their 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 449. t Ibid. p. 449. 
 
212 michel's suspicious conduct. [1820. 
 
 attention, and made them feel rather uneasy as to his 
 honesty; and various circumstances occurred to increase 
 their suspicions. He requested the loan of a hatchet, when 
 any other hunter would have taken only his knife. He 
 remained abroad all day without any definite employment. 
 He brought them some raw meat, saying it was part of 
 the carcass of a wolf, but which they had afterwards rea- 
 son to believe was a portion of the bodies of Belanger and 
 Perrault, whom they suspected him to have murdered. 
 He shunned the society of Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, 
 refusing to sleep in the tent, and preferring to lie alone at 
 the fire. On going out with the purpose of remaining a 
 whole day, he often returned abruptly, and when questioned 
 gave vague answers. In a few days he began to regret 
 that he had left Captain Franklin's party, refused to take 
 any share in the labour of cutting wood, talked in a surly 
 and insolent manner, and could scarcely be prevailed upon 
 to go out and hunt at all. These symptoms of gloomy 
 dissatisfaction increased; he resisted all entreaties, and 
 when Mr. Hood, who was now reduced by famine to the 
 last extremity, remonstrated with him, he flew into a vio- 
 lent passion, and exclaimed, " It is of no use hunting ; 
 there are no animals; you had better kill and eat me." 
 He afterwards, however, consented to go out, but returned 
 upon some frivolous pretence; and on the succeeding day 
 that dreadful catastrophe took place, which will be best 
 given in the words of Dr. Richardson's Journal. 
 
 "In the morning," says he, "being Sunday, October 
 20th, we again urged Michel to go a-hunting, that he 
 might, if possible, leave us some provision, to-morrow being 
 the day appointed for his quitting us; but he showed great 
 unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the fire under 
 the pretence of cleaning his gun. After we had read the 
 morning service, I went about noon to gather some tripe 
 
1820.] MURDER OF MR. HOOD. 213 
 
 de roche, leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the 
 fireside arguing with Michel. Hepburn was employed 
 cutting down a tree at a small distance from the tent, being 
 desirous of accumulating a quantity of firewood. A short 
 time after I went out, I heard the report of a gun, and 
 about ten minutes afterwards Hepburn called to me in a 
 voice of great alarm to come directly. When I arrived, I 
 found poor Hood lying lifeless at the fireside, a ball having 
 apparently entered his forehead. I was at first horror- 
 struck with the idea that in a fit of despondency he had 
 hurried himself into the presence of his Almighty Judge 
 by an act of his own hand ; but the conduct of Michel soon 
 gave rise to other thoughts, and excited suspicions which 
 were confirmed, when, upon examining the body, I found 
 that the shot had entered the back part of the head and had 
 passed out at the forehead, whilst the muzzle of the gun 
 had been applied so close as to set fire to the nightcap 
 behind. The gun, which was of the longest kind supplied 
 to the Indians, could not have been placed in the position 
 to inflict such a wound except by a second person. Upon 
 inquiring of Michel how it happened, he replied that Mr. 
 Hood had sent him into the tent for the short gun, and 
 that during his absence the long gun had gone off, he did 
 not know whether by accident or not. He held the short 
 gun in his hand at the time he was speaking. Hepburn 
 afterwards asserted, that previous to the report of the gun, 
 Mr. Hood and Michel were speaking to each other in an 
 elevated, angry tone; — he added, that Mr. Hood being 
 seated at the fireside, was hid from him by intervening 
 willows ; but that on hearing the report he looked up, and 
 saw Michel rising up from before the tent-door, or just 
 behind where Mr. Hood was seated, and then going into 
 the tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharged for 
 the purpose of cleaning it, he did not go to the fire at first; 
 
214 MURDER OF MR. HOOD [1820. 
 
 and when Michel called to him that Mr. Hood was dead, a 
 considerable time had elapsed. * * * Bickersteth's Scripture 
 Help was lying open beside the body, as if it had fallen 
 from his hand, and it is probable he was reading it at the 
 instant of his death."* 
 
 Such was the melancholy fate of Mr. Hood, a young 
 officer of the highest promise, who, by his conduct, had 
 endeared himself to every member of the expedition, and 
 whose sufferings, as they were more intense, from the 
 peculiarity of his constitution, were borne with a placid 
 and unpretending fortitude, which it was impossible to 
 contemplate without emotion. Both Dr. Richardson and 
 Hepburn were convinced he had met his death from the 
 hands of Michel ; but to have accused him at that moment 
 would have been the extremity of rashness. They were 
 so reduced by famine that he could easily have overpowered 
 both. His appearance showed that he possessed secret 
 supplies of food ; he was of great bodily strength, and was 
 armed to the teeth, carrying, besides his gun, a brace of 
 pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. To have hinted a 
 suspicion, therefore, might have been instantly fatal, and 
 they affected to consider the death of their companion 
 entirely accidental. As his weakness had been the chief 
 cause of delaying their journey, they now set out for the 
 fort, having first paid the last rites to the dead in the only 
 way which their situation would permit. The ground was 
 so hard, and their strength so exhausted, that to dig a grave 
 was impossible ; so they carried the body into the willow 
 grove behind the tent, and returning to the fire, read the 
 funeral service in addition to their evening devotions. 
 
 In the morning, having singed the hair off a portion of 
 Mr. Hood's buffalo robe, they boiled and ate it for break- 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, vol. iv. 12mo ed. p. 109-112. 
 
1820.] BY MICHEL THE IROQUOIS. 215 
 
 fast. Meanwhile, the conduct of Michel was so extraordi- 
 nary, that had they not been already convinced of his 
 guilt, no doubt of it could have remained. Though not a 
 breath of their suspicions reached his ears, he repeatedly 
 protested that he was incapable of committing such an act ; 
 he kept constantly on his guard, appeared fearful of leaving 
 Dr. Richardson and Hepburn alone even for the shortest 
 time, and when Hepburn spoke he listened anxiously, 
 though very imperfectly acquainted with the English lan- 
 guage, fixed his eyes keenly upon him, and asked fiercely 
 if he accused him of the murder. He evinced great un- 
 willingness to set out for the fort, and wished Dr. Richard- 
 son to proceed to the Coppermine River, where he said the 
 woods would supply plenty of deer. On finding this advice 
 disregarded, his conduct became more and more alarming; 
 he muttered to himself, fell into sullen fits of abstraction, and 
 used those convulsive and abrupt gestures often involun- 
 tarily exhibited by a person whose mind is full of some 
 dreadful purpose. Suddenly awakening from this reverie, 
 he again expressed his unwillingness to return to the fort, 
 and renewed his solicitations to Dr. Richardson to repair to 
 the southern woods, where they would find ample subsist- 
 ence. On being requested to pursue his own plan alone, 
 and leave them to continue their journey, he broke into an 
 ungovernable fury, accused Hepburn of having told stories 
 against him, and assumed such airs of superiority as showed 
 that he knew they were both in his power, at the same 
 time giving vent to expressions of hatred against the white 
 people, calling them deadly enemies, and affirming they 
 had killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. 
 
 None of these menaces were lost upon Richardson and 
 Hepburn; both felt they were not safe in this man's com- 
 pany; and these dreadful surmises rose into certainty when 
 he threw out hints that he would free himself from all 
 
216 michel's death. [1820. 
 
 restraint on the morrow. Being now convinced that, as he 
 had cruelly murdered Hood, he was resolved also to sacri- 
 fice them, they ascribed his not having already done so to 
 the circumstance of his not knowing the way to the fort, 
 and requiring their guidance. They came to this conclu- 
 sion without any communication with each other ; for their 
 fierce companion would not leave them a moment, watching 
 them with a malignant look, and frequently muttering 
 threats against Hepburn. Towards evening, as they ap- 
 proached the spot where it would be necessary to stop for 
 the night, Michel halted to gather tripe de roche, and to 
 their surprise bade them walk on, and he would soon over- 
 take them. Hepburn and Dr. Richardson, now left alone 
 together for the first time since Mr. Hood's death, rapidly 
 opened their minds to each other. In addition to the facts 
 already mentioned, others came to light, which left not the 
 slightest doubt as to Michel's guilt; and so convinced was 
 Hepburn of there being no safety for them but in his death, 
 that, though a man of extreme benevolence and deep reli- 
 gious principle, he offered to be the instrument of it him- 
 self. " Had my own life," says Dr. Richardson, " alone 
 been threatened, I would not have purchased it by such a 
 measure; but I considered myself as intrusted also with the 
 protection of Hepburn's, a man who by his humane atten- 
 tions and devotedness had so endeared himself to me, that 
 I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own." Ani- 
 mated by such feelings, and convinced that Michel's death 
 was necessary to self-preservation, he determined that it 
 ought to be by his own and not by Hepburn's hand, and on 
 his coming up shot him through the head with a pistol. 
 It appeared that he had gathered no tripe de roche, and had 
 halted to put his gun in order, no doubt with the intention 
 of attacking them when in the act of encamping.* 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 457, 458. 
 
1820.] DEATH OP PELTIER AND SAMANDRE. 217 
 
 Dr. Richardson and Hepburn now pursued their way to 
 the fort ; but fatigue, and want of food and fuel, had nearly 
 proved fatal to them. They remarked, however, that re- 
 peatedly when death seemed inevitable, an unexpected sup- 
 ply of provisions again restored them; and the confidence 
 that, when no human help was nigh, they were supported 
 by a merciful God, inspired them with renewed hope. At 
 last they had the delight of beholding from an eminence 
 the smoke issuing from the chimney of the fort, and imme- 
 diately after, embracing those friends for whose fate they 
 had entertained so many melancholy forebodings. So 
 ended this interesting narrative. 
 
 The whole party were now once more united, but under 
 circumstances of the most distressing privation; all ema- 
 ciated to such a degree as to look like living skeletons ; 
 their hands shook from weakness, so that to take an aim 
 was impossible; and the rein-deer, partridges, and other 
 game, flew or bounded past in joyousness and security, 
 whilst the unhappy beings who beheld them were gaunt 
 with hunger. The winter was closing in with all its hor- 
 rors; it became daily more difficult to procure fuel, the 
 labour of cutting and carrying the logs being so grievous 
 that only Dr. Richardson and Hepburn could undertake it; 
 and to scrape the ground for bones, and to cook this miser- 
 able meal, was all Captain Franklin could 'accomplish. On 
 1st November the doctor obtained some tripe de roche; 
 and as Peltier and Samandre were in the last stage of 
 exhaustion, it was hoped a little of the soup might revive 
 them. All was in vain ; they tasted a few spoonfuls, but 
 soon complained of a soreness in their throats, and both 
 died in the course of the night, apparently without pain. 
 To inter the bodies, or even carry them to the river, was a 
 task for which the united strength of the survivors was 
 inadequate; all they could do was to remove them into an 
 
21.8 COURAGEOUS ENDURANCE. [1820. 
 
 opposite part of tlie house; and the living and the dead 
 remained in awful contiguity under the same roof. 
 
 The party was now reduced to four — Franklin, Richard- 
 son, Hepburn, and Adam. The last had become dreadfully 
 low since the death of his companions, and could not bear 
 to be left alone for a moment. Their stock of bones was 
 exhausted, and in a short time it was evident that the 
 severity of the frost must render the gathering of the tripe 
 de roche impossible. Under these circumstances, with 
 death by famine approaching every hour, this little band 
 of pious and brave men were supported by an unwavering 
 reliance on the mercy of God. " We read prayers," says 
 Captain Franklin, " and a portion of the New Testament 
 in the morning and evening, as had been our practice 
 since Dr. Richardson's arrival; and I may remark, that 
 the performance of these duties always afforded us the 
 greatest consolation, serving to reanimate our hope in the 
 mercy of the Omnipotent, who alone could save and deliver 
 us." * It seemed as if it were the mysterious design of the 
 Almighty to* permit them to be reduced to the lowest 
 depth of suffering, that his power might be magnified at 
 the very moment when every human effort appeared utterly 
 impotent. Hitherto Dr. Richardson and Hepburn had 
 been the healthiest of the party, but they had overwrought 
 themselves, and both sunk rapidly. Owing to their loss of 
 flesh, the hardness of the floor, from which they were only 
 protected by a single blanket, rendered the whole surface 
 of their bodies sore ; yet the labour of turning from one 
 side to the other was too much for them. As their strength 
 sunk, their mental faculties partook of the weakness of 
 their frame; and, to employ the candid and simple expres- 
 sions of the excellent leader, " an unreasonable pettishness 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 464. 
 
1820.] UNEXPECTED RELIEF. 219 
 
 with each other began to manifest itself, each believing the 
 other weaker in intellect than himself, and more in need of 
 advice and assistance." During this gloomy period, after 
 the first acute pains of hunger, which lasted but three or 
 four days, had subsided, they generally enjoyed the re- 
 freshment of sleep, accompanied by dreams which for the 
 most part partook of a pleasant character, and very often 
 related to the pleasures of feasting.* 
 
 Help, however, was now near at hand, and we shall not 
 impair the affecting description of their deliverance by 
 giving it in any other than Captain Franklin's own words: 
 — " On November 7th, Adam had passed a restless night, 
 being disquieted by gloomy apprehensions of approaching 
 death, which they tried in vain to dispel. He was so low 
 in the morning as scarcely to be able to speak, and Captain 
 Franklin remained by his bedside to cheer him as much as 
 possible, whilst the doctor and Hepburn went out to cut 
 wood. They had hardly begun their labour when they 
 were amazed at hearing the report of a musket, and could 
 scarcely believe that there was any one near till they heard 
 a shout, and espied three Indians close to the house. Adam 
 and Franklin heard the latter noise, and were fearful that 
 some part of the house had fallen upon one of their com- 
 panions — a disaster which had been thought not unlikely. 
 The alarm was only momentary ; for Dr. Richardson came 
 in to communicate the joyful intelligence that relief had 
 arrived. He and Captain Franklin immediately addressed 
 their thanksgivings to the Throne of Mercy for this de- 
 liverance; but poor Adam was in so low a state that he 
 could scarcely comprehend the information. When the 
 Indians entered, he attempted to rise, but immediately 
 sank down again. But for this seasonable interposition 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, pp. 465, 466. 
 
220 ARRIVAL OF THE INDIANS. [1820. 
 
 of Providence, his existence must have terminated in a few 
 hours, and that of the rest probably in not many days."* 
 
 The Indians who had been despatched by Mr. Back 
 had travelled with great expedition, and brought a small 
 supply of provisions. They imprudently presented too 
 much food at first; and though aware of the effects which 
 might arise from a surfeit, and warned by Dr. Richardson 
 to eat very sparingly, the sight of the venison was irresis- 
 tible ; and it was devoured by them all, not excluding the 
 doctor himself, with an avidity that soon produced the 
 most acute pains, which during the night deprived them of 
 rest. Adam, whose weakness rendered him unable to feed 
 himself, was not subjected to the same inconvenience, and 
 taking moderate meals revived hourly. All now was 
 thankfulness and cheerful activity. Boudel-kell, the 
 youngest Indian, after an hour's rest, returned to the 
 encampment of Akaitcho, the Dog-rib chief, carrying a 
 note from Captain Franklin, and a request for another 
 supply of provisions. The two others, named in their 
 familiar manner Crooked Foot and the Rat, remained to 
 nurse the white men. Under their care the apartment 
 lately so desolate, and something between a sepulchre and 
 a lazar-house, assumed a gladdened look, which had the 
 best effect. The dead bodies were removed, the room 
 cleaned of its filth and fragments of pounded bones, and 
 large cheerful fires produced a sensation of comfort to 
 which they had long been strangers. The poor sufferers 
 had often cast a wishful eye on a pile of dried wood near 
 the river, but were utterly unable to carry it up the bank. 
 When pointed out to the Indians, they fetched it home 
 with a rapidity which astonished their feeble friends. 
 "They set about everything," says Franklin, "with an 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 467. 
 
1820.] GREAT KINDNESS OF THE INDIANS. 221 
 
 activity which amazed us. Indeed, contrasted with our 
 emaciated figures and extreme debility, their frames ap- 
 peared to us gigantic, and their strength supernatural." 
 
 Under the care of the Indians, and the blessing of 
 wholesome and regular meals, the strength of the party 
 was so far restored, that, although still feeble, on the 16th, 
 after having united in prayer and thanksgiving to God for 
 their deliverance, they left Fort Enterprise — a spot where, 
 as they had formerly enjoyed much comfort if not happi- 
 ness, they had latterly experienced a degree of misery 
 scarcely to be paralleled.* The Indians treated them with 
 unremitting kindness, gave them their own snow-shoes, 
 and walked at their side to be ready to lift them up when 
 they fell. In this manner they pushed forward to the 
 abode of Akaitcho, the Indian chief, who welcomed them 
 with the utmost hospitality. Soon after they received 
 letters from their friends at Fort Providence, and the mes- 
 senger also brought two trains of dogs, a package of spirits 
 and tobacco for the Indians, and a supply of shirts and 
 clothes for Captain Franklin and his companions. The 
 gratification of changing their linen, which had been un- 
 interruptedly worn ever since their departure from the 
 sea- coast, is described as conveying an intensity of comfort 
 to which no words can do justice. From this spot their 
 progress to Fort Providence and thence to Montreal was 
 prosperous and easy ; and thus terminated their long, fa- 
 tiguing, and disastrous travels in North America, having 
 journeyed by water and by land, including their navigation 
 of the Polar Sea, 5550 miles. 
 
 So disastrous had been the result of his first expedition, 
 and so appalling the sufferings with which it was accom- 
 panied, that nothing assuredly can convey a more honour- 
 
 * Franklin's Journey, p. 470. 
 
222 franklin's second journey. [1823. 
 
 able testimony to the enthusiastic zeal and unshaken per- 
 severance of Captain Franklin, than the statement of the 
 simple fact, that towards the close of 1823, having learnt 
 the determination of government to make another attempt 
 to effect a northern passage by sea between the Atlantic 
 and Pacific Oceans, he, to use his own words, " ventured 
 to lay before his Majesty's government a plan for an ex- 
 pedition overland to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, 
 and thence by sea to the north-western extremity of 
 America, with the combined object also of surveying the 
 coast between the Mackenzie and the Coppermine Rivers." 
 
 It was the opinion of this able officer that, in the course 
 he now proposed to follow, reverses similar to those which 
 had surrounded his first journey were scarcely to be ap- 
 prehended ; and his views having met the approbation of 
 government, he received directions for the equipment of the 
 expedition, and was nominated its commander. He had 
 the satisfaction also of being once more accompanied by 
 his valued friend Dr. Richardson, who, unappalled by his 
 former dreadful sufferings, again offered his services as 
 naturalist and surgeon, and volunteered to undertake the 
 survey of the coast between the Mackenzie and Copper- 
 mine Rivers, while Captain Franklin was occupied in an 
 attempt to reach Icy Cape.* Previous to the departure of 
 the ships, a correspondence was opened with the governor 
 and directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, who trans- 
 mitted injunctions to their officers in the fur-countries, to 
 provide depots of provisions at the stations pointed out by 
 Franklin. 
 
 The building of proper boats for the navigation of the 
 Arctic Sea, as well as the passage of the rapids between 
 York Factory and Mackenzie River, formed the next 
 
 * Franklin's Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the 
 Polar Sea. Introductory Chapter, p. 10. 
 
1825.] HIS PREPARATIONS. 223 
 
 object of attention. It was evident that the canoes o A 
 birch-bark employed by Sir A. Mackenzie, and by Cap- 
 tain Franklin in his first journey, though excellently 
 adapted for the American rivers, uniting lightness and 
 facility of repair with speed, were yet, from the tenderness 
 of the bark, little fitted to resist the force of the arctic 
 waves, or the collision of the sharp-pointed masses of ice. 
 Captain Franklin accordingly obtained the Admiralty's 
 permission to have three boats constructed at Woolwich 
 under his own superintendence. aJ They were built," says 
 he, " of mahogany, with timbers of ash, both ends exactly 
 alike, and fitted to be steered either with a ship- oar or a 
 rudder. The largest, being twenty- six feet long and five 
 feet four inches broad, was adapted for six rowers, a steers- 
 man, and an officer ; it was found to be capable of carrying 
 three tons weight in addition to the crew, and could be 
 transported with ease on the shoulders of six men. The 
 two other boats were twenty-four feet in length, four feet 
 ten inches broad, and held a crew of five men, besides a 
 steersman and an officer, with an extra weight of two and 
 a half tons. In addition to these, another little vessel was 
 constructed at Woolwich, which reflected great credit upon 
 its inventor, Lieutenant- Colonel Pasley of the Royal En- 
 gineers. Its shape was exactly that of one of the valves 
 of a walnut- shell, and it was framed of well- seasoned 
 planks of ash, fastened together with thongs, and covered 
 with Mackintosh's prepared caiwass. It weighed only 
 eighty-five pounds, and when taken to pieces could be 
 made up in five or six parcels, and again put together in 
 less than twenty minutes, although it was nine feet long 
 by four feet four inches in breadth."* Each person on 
 board was provided with two suits of waterproof dresses, 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, Intro. Chap. pp. 15, 18 
 
224 DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION. [1825. 
 
 prepared by Mr. Mackintosh of Glasgow ; the guns, which 
 were of the same bore as the fowling-pieces furnished by 
 the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indian hunters, had 
 their locks tempered to resist the cold — each being fitted 
 with a broad Indian dagger similar to a bayonet, which, 
 on being disjoined, could be used as a knife. Ammunition 
 of the best quality, and a store of provisions sufficient for 
 two years, were also supplied. 
 
 The expedition sailed from Liverpool on 16th February 
 1825, and after a favourable passage to New York, pro- 
 ceeded to Albany, travelled through Utica, Rochester, and 
 Geneva, crossed the Niagara and Lake Ontario, coasted 
 the northern shore of Lake Superior, and thence pushed 
 forward through Rainy Lake, the Lake of the Woods, Lake 
 Winipeg, Saskatchawan River, and arrived at Cumberland 
 House on 15th June. From this station, proceeding north- 
 ward to Isle a la Crosse, and passing through Deep River 
 and Clear and Buffalo Lakes, they overtook their boats in 
 Methye River on the morning of 29 th June. The advanced 
 period of the season rendered it impossible to embark on 
 the Mackenzie before the middle of August, so that it be- 
 came necessary to postpone the great expedition till the en- 
 suing summer. They accordingly established their winter 
 quarters on the banks, erecting a habitation and store, which 
 they named Fort Franklin. The superintendence of these 
 buildings was committed to Lieutenant Back, while Captain 
 Franklin determined to descend the river, take a view of 
 the state of the Polar Sea, and return to winter quarters 
 before the extreme cold should set in. In this voyage 
 there occurred nothing worthy of particular notice till the 
 arrival at Whale Island, where, though Mackenzie had the 
 strongest reasons to conclude that he had reached the sea, 
 he appears not to have been completely satisfied on that 
 point. Probably his doubts arose from the fresh taste of 
 
1825.] ARRIVAL AT WHALE ISLAND. 225 
 
 the water. Franklin, however, proceeded beyond Whale 
 Island, and reached the shore of the great Arctic Ocean. 
 " Embarking," says he, " at eleven a.m., we continued our 
 course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we found its 
 coast trending southward of east. There we landed, and 
 were rejoiced at the sea-like appearance to the northward. 
 An island was now discovered to the north-east, looking 
 blue from its distance, towards which the boat was im- 
 mediately directed. The water, which for the last eight 
 miles had been very shallow, became gradually deeper, and 
 of a more green colour, though still fresh, even when we 
 had entirely lost sight of the eastern land. In the middle 
 of the traverse we were caught by a strong contrary wind, 
 against which our crews cheerfully contended for five hours. 
 Unwilling to return without attaining the object of our 
 search, when the strength of the rowers was nearly 
 exhausted the sails were set double-reefed, and our excellent 
 boat mounted over the waves in a most buoyant manner, 
 whilst an opportune alteration of the wind enabled us in the 
 course of another hour to fetch into smoother water under 
 the shelter of the island. We then pulled across a line of 
 strong ripple, which marked the termination of the fresh 
 water, that on the seaward side being brackish ; and in the 
 farther progress of three miles to the island, we had the 
 indescribable pleasure of finding the water decidedly salt. 
 The sun was setting as the boat touched the beach ; we 
 hastened to the most elevated part of the island, about two 
 hundred and fifty feet high, to look around ; and never was 
 a prospect more gratifying than that which lay open to us. 
 The Rocky Mountains were seen from S.W. to W.JN., and 
 from the latter point, round by the north, the sea appeared 
 in all its majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any 
 visible obstruction to its navigation. Many seals and black 
 and white whales were seen sporting on its waves, and the 
 P 
 
226 ACCURACY OF MACKENZIE. [1825. 
 
 whole scene was calculated to excite in our minds the most 
 flattering expectations of our own success and that of our 
 friends in the Hecla and the Fury." * Franklin pronounces 
 a high encomium on the accuracy of Mackenzie, and con- 
 siders him as completely entitled to the praise of having 
 reached the Arctic Sea, although, owing to the frail con- 
 struction of the Indian canoes, it was impossible for him to 
 sail to the point where the water became salt. 
 
 Having accomplished his design in this preliminary 
 journey, Franklin returned on 5th September to his winter 
 quarters on Great Bear Lake. About the same time Dr. 
 Richardson arrived from his excursion to the north-eastern 
 shores of the same extensive sheet of water, having com- 
 pleted his survey as far as the influx of Dease's River, and 
 ascertained that the first rapid was the best point to which 
 the eastern detachment of the expedition should direct its 
 course on their return from the Coppermine in the follow- 
 ing season. Meantime the people were so busily employed 
 that time never hung heavy on their hands, and the shortest 
 day came almost unexpectedly upon them. The Canadians 
 and Indians were engaged in fishing and hunting for the 
 support of the whole party, and during the autumn the 
 nets yielded daily eight hundred fish of the kind called 
 herring- salmon. Four Dog-rib Indians, along with the 
 two interpreters, Augustus and Ooligbuck, were employed 
 in hunting rein-deer, and the sailors were divided into 
 different parties, to whom separate duties were allotted ; 
 such as attending on the nets, bringing home the venison 
 killed by the hunters, felling, carrying, and splitting wood, 
 and exercising themselves in running as letter-carriers on 
 snow-shoes between Fort Franklin and two other small 
 posts established on the Mackenzie and Slave Lake. A 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 3 1-3G. 
 
1S25.] APPROACH OF SPRING. 227 
 
 school also was opened, in which, during the long winter 
 evenings, the officers instructed the sailors in reading, 
 writing, and arithmetic ; and during the hours of relaxation 
 the hall was given up to the men to divert themselves with 
 any game they chose ; on which occasions they were 
 always joined by the officers. Sunday was invariably a 
 day of rest, and the whole party attended divine service 
 morning and evening. Besides this, the officers had ample 
 employment in noting down the thermometrical, magnetical, 
 and atmospherical observations, in writing their journals, 
 finishing their charts and drawings, and arranging the 
 objects of natural history which had been collected.* They 
 were amused by occasional visits of the Dog-rib Indians, 
 and various other tribes ; and Christmas-day falling on a 
 Sunday, they on the succeeding evening gave a dance and 
 supper, which was attended by sixty persons, including 
 savages. " Seldom," says Franklin, a in such a confined 
 space as our hall, or amongst the same number of persons, 
 was there a greater variety of character, or greater con- 
 fusion of tongues. The party consisted of Englishmen, 
 Highlanders (who mostly conversed with each other in 
 Gaelic), Canadians (who spoke French), Esquimaux, Che- 
 pewyans, Dog-ribs, Hare Indians, Cree women and children, 
 all mingled together in perfect harmony, whilst the amuse- 
 ments were varied by English, Gaelic, and French songs."-j- 
 The spring now approached, and the migrator}'- animals, 
 which observe with beautiful exactness their periods of 
 departure and arrival, began to appear, gladdening the yet 
 wintry face of nature. On 5th October the last swan had 
 passed to the southward, and on the 11th the last brown 
 duck was noticed. On 6th May the first swan was seen, 
 and on the 8th the brown ducks reappeared on the lake. 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 54-56. t Ibid., p. 67. 
 
228 EMBARKATION ON THE MACKENZIE. [1826. 
 
 The mosses began to sprout, and various singing birds and 
 orioles, along with some swifts and white geese, arrived soon 
 after. It is remarked by Dr. Richardson, that the singing 
 birds, which were silent on the banks of the Bear Lake 
 during the day, serenaded their mates at midnight; at 
 which time, however, it was quite light. On 20th May 
 the little stream which flowed past the fort burst its icy 
 chains, and the laughing geese arrived to give renewed 
 cheerfulness to the lake. Soon after this the winter green 
 began to push forth its flowers ; and under the increasing 
 warmth of the sun's rays the whole face of nature under- 
 went a delightful change. The snow gradually melted, the 
 ice broke up from the shores of the lake, the northern sky 
 became red and luminous at midnight, the dwarf-birch and 
 willows expanded their leaves, and by the 3d June the 
 anemones, the tussilago, the Lapland rose, and other early 
 plants, were in full flower.* 
 
 Admonished by these pleasing changes, Captain Frank- 
 lin prepared to set out, and on 15th June the equipments 
 for the boats were completed. Fourteen men, including 
 Augustus, the Esquimaux interpreter, accompanied the 
 commander-in-chief and Lieutenant Back in the two larger 
 boats, the Lion and the Reliance; whilst nine men, and 
 Ooligbuck, another interpreter, attended Dr. Richardson 
 and Mr. Kendall in the Dolphin and the Union. Spare 
 blankets, and all that could be useful for the voyage, or 
 as presents to the Esquimaux, were divided between the 
 eastern and western parties. On the Sunday before their 
 departure, the officers and men assembled at divine wor- 
 ship, and, in addition to the usual service, the special pro- 
 tection of the Almighty was implored lor the enterprise 
 upon which they were about to be engaged. All was now 
 
 * Richardson's Meteorological Tables. 
 
1826.] MOUTH OF THE MACKENZIE. 229 
 
 ready, and on Tuesday, 28th June, they embarked upon 
 the Mackenzie, with the navigation of which the reader is 
 already familiar. On the 4th July they reached that part 
 where the river divides into various channels, and the 
 two parties had determined to pursue different directions. 
 The expedition which was to follow the western branch, 
 commanded by Captain Franklin, embarked first, at Dr. 
 Richardson's desire, with a salute of three hearty cheers 
 from their companions ; and as they dropt down the river 
 and passed round a point of land, they perceived their 
 friends who were to follow the eastern branch employed in 
 the bustle of embarkation. All were in high spirits, and 
 it was impossible not to contrast their present complete 
 state of equipment with the circumstances of their first 
 disastrous journey. 
 
 On reaching the mouth of the Mackenzie, the western 
 expedition came almost immediately into contact with the 
 Esquimaux. Captain Franklin observed an encampment 
 upon a neighbouring island, and instantly proceeded to open 
 a communication. A selection of presents was made, and 
 at the same time every man was directed to have his gun 
 ready for use. Having adopted these precautions, they 
 steered direct for the island with their ensigns flying. The 
 boats touched ground when about a mile from the beach. 
 Signs were made to the Esquimaux to come off, and the 
 English pulled back a little to await their arrival in deeper 
 water. Three canoes, each carrying only a single person, 
 pushed off, and these were followed rapidly by others; so 
 that in a few minutes the whole space between the boats 
 and the shore was alive with those little vessels which they 
 name kayaks. An attempt was at first made to count 
 them, and the sailors got the length of seventy; but they 
 increased in such quick succession as to baffle their farther 
 efforts. 
 
230 ESQUIMAUX. [1826. 
 
 At first everything proceeded in a friendly manner. 
 Augustus, after delivering a present, informed them, that 
 if the English succeeded in finding a navigable channel for 
 large ships, an advantageous trade would be opened. This 
 intimation was received with a deafening shout, and the 
 sight of the presents which had been carried away by the 
 three foremost kayaks inflamed the cupidity of their com- 
 panions ; so that the boats were in a moment surrounded 
 by nearly three hundred persons, offering for sale their 
 bows, arrows, and spears, with a violence and perseverance 
 which became at last exceedingly troublesome, and Captain 
 Franklin directed the boats to be put to seaward. At this 
 moment a kayak was upset by one of the oars of the Lion, 
 and its unhappy possessor was stuck by the accident with 
 his head in the mud, and his heels in the air. He was 
 instantly extricated, wrapt in a warm great -coat, and 
 placed in the boat, where, although at first excessively 
 frightened and angry, he soon became reconciled to his 
 situation, and looking about, discovered many bales and 
 other articles which had hitherto been carefully concealed. 
 His first impulse was to ask for everything he saw, his 
 next to be indignant that his requests were not granted ; 
 and on joining his companions, as they afterwards learned, 
 he harangued on the inexhaustible riches of the Lion, and 
 proposed a plan for a general attack and pillage of both the 
 boats. This scheme was immediately carried into execu- 
 tion; and although the plunderers at first affected to be 
 partly in sport, matters soon assumed a serious complexion. 
 Two of the most powerful men, leaping on board, seized 
 Captain Franklin, forced him to sit between them, and 
 when he shook them off, a third took his station in front to 
 catch his arm whenever he attempted to raise his gun or 
 lay his hand on the broad dagger which hung by his side. 
 During this assault the two boats were violently dragged to 
 
1826.] VIOLENT CONDUCT OF THE ESQUIMAUX. 231 
 
 the shore, and a numerous party, stripping to the waist and 
 brandishing their long sharp knives, ran to the Reliance, 
 and commenced a regular pillage, handing the articles to 
 the women, who, ranged in a row behind, quickly conveyed 
 them out of sight. No sooner was the bow cleared of one 
 set of marauders, than another party commenced their 
 operations at the stern. The Lion was beset by smaller 
 numbers, and her crew, by firmly keeping their seats on 
 the canvass cover spread over the cargo, and beating off 
 the natives with the butt-end of their muskets, succeeded 
 in preventing any article of importance from being carried 
 away. Irritated, at length, by their frequent failure, the 
 Esquimaux made a simultaneous charge, and, leaping on 
 board, began to wrest the daggers and shot-belts from the 
 sailors, and to strike with their knives. In the midst of 
 this attack, when the crew in the Lion were nearly over- 
 powered, and their commander disarmed, all at once the 
 natives took to their heels, and concealed themselves 
 behind the drift timber and canoes on the beach. This 
 sudden panic was occasioned by Captain Back, whose boat 
 at this time had been got afloat, commanding his crew to 
 level their muskets — a proceeding which was immediately 
 observed by the Esquimaux, though not noticed by Captain 
 Franklin's men, who were wholly occupied in defending 
 themselves. The Lion happily floated soon after; and as 
 both boats pulled off, Captain Franklin desired Augustus 
 to inform some of the Esquimaux, who manifested a dispo- 
 sition to follow and renew the attack, that he would shoot 
 the first man who ventured to approach within musket- 
 range.* 
 
 In the evening, Augustus anxiously entreated permission 
 to attend a conference of his countrymen on the shore, to 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 101-107. 
 
232 SPEECH OF AUGUSTUS. [1826. 
 
 which he had been formally invited. The courage and 
 fidelity of this person had much endeared him to the 
 English, and it was not without hesitation that Captain 
 Franklin agreed to his request, as he stated his determina- 
 tion to reprove the natives for their disgraceful conduct. 
 He was at length allowed to go, and by the time he 
 reached the shore the number of Esquimaux amounted to 
 forty, all of them armed. On landing, he walked un- 
 dauntedly into the middle of the assembly, and addressed 
 them in the following animated speech, which he afterwards 
 repeated to his English friends : — " Your conduct," said 
 he, " has been very bad, and unlike all other Esquimaux. 
 Some of you even stole from me, your countryman; but 
 that I do not mind. I only regret that you should have 
 treated in this violent manner the white people, who came 
 solely to do you kindness. My tribe were in the same 
 unhappy state in which you now are before the white people 
 came to Churchill ; but at present they are supplied with 
 everything they need ; and you see that I am well clothed, 
 I get everything I want, and am very comfortable. You 
 cannot expect, after the transactions of this day, that these 
 people will ever bring any articles to your country again, 
 unless you show your contrition by returning the stolen 
 goods. The white people love the Esquimaux, and wish to 
 show them the same kindness that they bestow upon the 
 Indians. Do not deceive yourselves, and suppose that they 
 are afraid of you ; I tell you they are not, and that it is 
 entirely owing to their humanity that many of you were 
 not killed to-day, for they have all guns with which they 
 can destroy you either near or at a distance. I also have 
 a gun, and can assure you that if a white man had fallen, 
 I would have been the first to have revenged his death." 
 During this speech, which was delivered, as they perceived 
 from the boats, with much energy and spirited gesticula- 
 
1826.] CONTINUANCE OP THE VOYAGE. 233 
 
 tion, the Esquimaux expressed their approbation by frequent 
 shouts, and on its conclusion made a very penitent, though 
 somewhat singular apology: " They had never seen white 
 men before," they said, " and really all the things in the 
 boats were so beautiful and desirable that it was impossible 
 not to steal them. As they were very anxious, however, 
 for the friendship and trade of the white men, they 
 solemnly promised never to repeat such conduct, and, at 
 the request of Augustus, sent back the large kettle, the 
 tent, and some pairs of shoes which they had carried off." * 
 The interpreter was afterwards invited to a dance, and a 
 friendly understanding seemed to be established; but Cap- 
 tain Franklin soon discovered that the professions of the 
 natives were hollow and treacherous, and nothing but his 
 jealous precautions saved him and his companions from 
 massacre, in which it had been resolved to include the 
 faithful Augustus. 
 
 Their voyage along the coast in the direction of west- 
 north-west, after a progress of twelve miles, was impeded 
 by the ice stretching from the shore far to seaward. The 
 boats were in consequence hauled up; and as the frozen 
 masses were piled round to the height of thirty feet, it 
 became necessary to await the breaking up of this formid- 
 able barrier. Having gone to sleep, the officers were startled 
 at midnight by the guard calling to arms : Three Esqui- 
 maux, belonging to a larger party encamped at some dis- 
 tance, had stolen forward, and been only discovered when 
 close at hand. Alarmed at the appearance of the men, 
 who stood to their arms, the strangers were on the point of 
 discharging their arrows, when they were arrested by the 
 loud voice of Augustus, who explained the object of the 
 expedition, and dilated upon the advantages which they 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, pp. 108, 109. 
 
234 FRIENDLY ESQUIMAUX : [1826. 
 
 would derive from it. A present confirmed his statement, 
 and an amicable intercourse was opened— a line, however, 
 being first drawn at a certain distance from the tents, across 
 which no Esquimaux was to pass, under the penalty of 
 being instantly shot. Against this they made no remon- 
 strance, only remarking, when informed of the treacherous 
 conduct of the natives at the mouth of Mackenzie River, 
 that " these were bad men, altogether different from them, 
 and never failed either to steal or quarrel whenever an 
 opportunity was offered." The delight exhibited by these 
 people, including the most elderly among them, on receiving 
 any little present, was exactly similar to that of children 
 when they get hold of toys. They ran from one thing to 
 another; examined with restless curiosity every part of 
 Augustus' dress, who, to gratify his vanity, had put on his 
 gayest apparel; and, ignorant of the uses of the articles 
 presented to them, they walked about with cod-fish hooks 
 and c./vls dangling from the nose, and copper thimbles 
 strung to their trousers or rein-deer jackets. The men were 
 robust, and taller than those seen on the east coast by 
 Captain Parry, though their manner of life appeared to be 
 nearly the same. With the broad nose and small eyes, 
 which peculiarly distinguish the whole Esquimaux tribes, 
 they had the cheekbones less projecting than those of the 
 eastern coast. From a constant exposure to the glare of 
 the ice and snow, the whole party were afflicted with sore 
 eyes, and two of the old men seemed nearly blind. They 
 wore the hair on the upper lip and chin, and every man 
 had pieces of bone or shells thrust through the septum of 
 the nose, whilst holes were pierced on each side of the under 
 lip, in which were placed circular pieces of ivory with a 
 large blue bead in the centre — ornaments which they 
 valued highly, and declined selling. Their clothes con- 
 sisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin. Avith a skirt behind and 
 
1826.] THEIR DEESS AND MANNERS. 235 
 
 before, and a small hood ; breeches of the same material, 
 and large seal-skin boots. The dress of the females differed 
 from that of the men only in their wearing wide trousers, 
 and in the size of their hoods, which did not fit close to the 
 head, but were made large for the purpose of receiving their 
 children : these were ornamented with stripes of different 
 coloured skins, and round the top was fastened a band of 
 wolf's hair, made to stand erect. The women were from 
 four feet and a half to four feet three quarters high, and 
 some of the younger, though too corpulent, were pretty; 
 their black hair was tastefully turned up from behind to the 
 top of the head, and braided with strings of white and blue 
 beads and cords of white deer-skin. Both men and women 
 were much pleased by having their portraits sketched by 
 Captain Back; and one young lady, who sat for a full- 
 length, and chose the extraordinary attitude of stuffing both 
 hands into her breeches-pockets, interrupted the labours of 
 the draughtsman by repeatedly jumping into the air, and 
 smiling in a very ludicrous and irresistible manner. The 
 men were armed with bows and arrows, long knives, which 
 they concealed in the shirt-sleeve, and spears tipped with 
 bone.* 
 
 The Esquimaux had predicted, that as soon as a strong 
 wind began to blow from the land it would loosen the ice ; 
 and on 12th July a heavy rain with a pretty high gale set 
 in, and opened up a passage. The boats accordingly were 
 launched; and, passing a wide bay named by the com- 
 mander after his friends Captains Sabine and King, they 
 were suddenly arrested by a compact body of ice, and en- 
 veloped at the same time in a dense fog. On attempting to 
 pull back for the purpose of landing, they discovered that 
 the ice had closed between them and the shore. In this 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, pp. 118, 119. 
 
236 POINTS SABINE AND KAY. [182G. 
 
 situation only one alternative was left, which was to pull 
 to seaward and trace the outer border of the ice. This they 
 at last effected ; though a sudden change of wind brought 
 on a heavy swell, and surrounded them with floating masses 
 of ice, which threatened to crush the boats to pieces. They 
 succeeded, however, after five hours employed in pulling in 
 and out between these floating icebergs, in reaching the 
 shore and landing a little to the west of Point Sabine. After 
 a detention of two days they proceeded as far as Point Kay ; 
 but being here again impeded by a compact body of ice, 
 which extended to seaward as far as the eye could reach, 
 they were obliged to encamp and wait patiently for the first 
 strong breeze from the land. 
 
 The time of their sojourn in these arctic solitudes was 
 pleasantly occupied in making astronomical observations, 
 collecting specimens of the plants in flower, sketching 
 scenery, and completing charts of the coast. Augustus 
 went in search of his countrymen, and returned at night 
 with a young Esquimaux and his wife, who, after a few 
 presents, became loquacious, and informed them that the 
 ice would soon break up. Symptoms of this desirable 
 change were accordingly observed next day, and with great 
 labour they reached Herschel Island. At the moment they 
 made the shore a herd of rein-deer came bounding down to 
 the beach, pursued by three Esquimaux hunters, and imme- 
 diately took the water, whilst the natives, startled at sight 
 of the strangers, gazed for a moment, consulted amongst 
 themselves, changed the heads of their arrows, and prepared 
 their bows. Their hostile intentions, however, were laid 
 aside when they were addressed by Augustus ; and in the 
 evening a large party arrived, bringing dried meat, fish, 
 and game, for which they received presents in exchange, 
 which set them singing and dancing round the encampment 
 for the greater part of the night. 
 
1826.] HERSCHEL ISLAND. 237 
 
 From these people was collected some curious informa- 
 tion. They stated that they procured beads, knives, and 
 iron, principally from Esquimaux residing far away to the 
 west, and also from Indians who came annually from the 
 interior by a river directly opposite the encampment, to 
 which Captain Franklin gave the name of Mountain Indian 
 River.* Whence the Indians or the Esquimaux obtained 
 these goods they could not tell, but supposed it was from 
 Kabloonacht or white men, at a great distance to the west. 
 The articles were not of British manufacture, from which 
 Captain Franklin concluded that the Kabloonacht must be 
 the Russian fur-traders. 
 
 It was with great difficulty that the boats made even a 
 short distance from Herschel Island. The ice repeatedly 
 closed in upon them, leaving only a narrow channel, often 
 too shallow to float the boats; and dense fogs now became 
 frequent, rendering their navigation peculiarly hazardous. 
 These dreary curtains hanging over the ice gave it the 
 appearance of water, and exposed them to the danger of 
 being shut in by an impenetrable barrier when they ex- 
 pected an open sea. They continued their course, however, 
 till they came abreast of Mount Conybeare, when they 
 encamped, and crossing a swampy level, ascended to the 
 summit, from which they enjoyed a striking view into the 
 interior. Three noble ranges of mountains were seen 
 parallel to the Buckland chain, but of less altitude, whilst 
 the prospect was bounded by a fourth range, mingling their 
 pyramidal summits with the clouds, and covered with snow. 
 From this last encampment their advance was extremely 
 slow. The boats were pushed forward through small lanes, 
 the utmost vigilance being necessary to prevent their being 
 entirely shut in, as a few hours often made essential 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, pp. 130, 131. 
 
238 DENSE FOGS. [1826. 
 
 changes, and their frail craft could only be saved by being 
 frequently hauled upon the beach. The calm weather also 
 retarded them, and they earnestly longed for a strong gale 
 to break up the compacted fields of ice, and permit them to 
 continue their voyage. 
 
 After a detention of some days their wishes seemed about 
 to be gratified. At midnight, on the 25th July, a strong 
 south-westerly breeze sprung up, accompanied by thunder 
 and lightning; but in the morning an impenetrable fog 
 hung over the sea. On the land side the prospect was 
 equally dreary ; an extensive swamp, in which they sunk 
 ankle- deep at every step, prevented any excursions into the 
 interior, and the clouds of mosquitoes which for ever buzzed 
 around them kept them in a perpetual irritation. At length, 
 however, the fog dispersed, disclosing an open lane of 
 water about half a mile from shore; following its course 
 for eight miles, they came to the mouth of a wide river, 
 which had its rise in the British range of mountains. Its 
 course approached near the line of demarcation between the 
 American dominions of Great Britain and Russia, and Cap- 
 tain Franklin named it the Clarence River, after his present 
 Majesty, then Lord High Admiral. On the most elevated 
 part of the coast near its mouth they erected a pile of drift 
 wood, under which was deposited a tin box, containing a 
 royal silver medal, and an account of the proceedings of 
 the expedition; after which the Union flag was hoisted 
 with three hearty cheers. 
 
 They now continued their voyage, though often beset by 
 ice and interrupted by fogs ; and passing the boundary be- 
 tween Russian and British America, descried an encamp- 
 ment of natives on a low island, surrounded by many 
 oomiaks and kayaks guarded by Esquimaux dogs, whilst 
 their masters were fast asleep in the tents. The inter- 
 preter being despatched to rouse them, a singular scene 
 
1826.] 
 
 MOUNT COPLESTON. 239 
 
 took place. At his first call a little squabby woman rushed 
 out in a state of perfect nudity, uttered a loud yell, and 
 instantly ran back again to rouse her husband, who, shout- 
 ing out that strangers were at hand, awoke the whole band. 
 In a moment all seized their arms, and without waiting to 
 put on their deer-skin breeches or jackets, swarmed out 
 upon the beach, which in an instant was covered with fifty- 
 four grown-up persons, completely naked, very outrageous, 
 dirty, and ugly. A short parley quieted their fears, an 
 interchange of presents took place, and the boats crossed 
 Camden Bay, having in view the noble range of the Roman- 
 zoff Mountains, whose peaks were covered with snow. 
 
 Soon after they arrived at the mouth of a river, which 
 discharged into the sea so great a volume of water, that 
 even three miles from land the taste was perfectly fresh; 
 and having reached latitude 70° 7', farther progress was 
 prevented by ice closely packed on the outer border of a 
 reef, and they discovered that the great chain of the Rocky 
 Mountains either terminated abreast of their present situa- 
 tion, or receded so far to the southward as to f^de away in 
 the distance. During their detention, Captain Back, to 
 whose pencil we are indebted for many admirable drawings 
 of arctic scenery, made a sketch of the most western moun- 
 tain, which they named Mount Copleston.* Various cir- 
 cumstances now warned them that much farther progress 
 along this inhospitable coast was impracticable. The fogs 
 became more frequent and perilous, the water was often 
 so shallow that even at two miles from shore the boats 
 grounded, and on getting into deeper soundings, the re- 
 peated shocks received from masses of floating ice severely 
 injured their timbers, especially those of the Lion, which 
 was very leaky. Still they struggled on from Flaxman 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 150. 
 
240 ILLUSIONS OF THE FOG. [1826. 
 
 Island along a low desolate shore, rendered more dreary 
 by the stormy weather, till on the 1 0th a gale brought 
 along with it a thick fog, and they hauled up the boats, 
 encamping on a low spot, which they named Foggy Island. 
 Here they kindled fires, dried their clothes, which were 
 completely wet with the moisture of the atmosphere, and 
 amused themselves in their murky prison by proceeding in 
 search of rein-deer. The fog caused frequent and some- 
 times ludicrous mistakes; and on one occasion, after the 
 men had spent a long time in stealing upon some deer, and 
 were congratulating themselves on coming within shot, to 
 their amazement the animals took wing and disappeared in 
 the fog, with a scream and cackle which at once declared 
 their genus, and seemed to deride the credulity of their 
 pursuers. u We witnessed with regret," says Captain 
 Franklin, " in these short rambles, the havoc which this 
 dreary weather made among the flowers. Many which had 
 been blooming upon our arrival were now lying prostrate 
 and withered, and these symptoms of decay could not fail 
 painfully to remind us that the term of our operations was 
 fast approaching. Often at this time did every one express 
 a wish that we had some decked vessel, in which the pro- 
 visions could be secured from the injury of salt water, and 
 the crew sheltered when they required rest, that we might 
 quit this shallow coast and steer at once towards ley Cape."* 
 So frequently did they attempt to fulfil this desire, and so 
 perpetually were they driven back by the fog closing in 
 upon them, that the sailors declared the island was enchanted. 
 Indeed, to a superstitious mind, the appearances furnished 
 some ground for believing it. The fog would often dis- 
 perse, and permit a short glimpse of a point about three 
 miles distant, bearing north-west by west; in a moment 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 154. 
 
1S26.] DIFFICULTIES. 241 
 
 every hand was at work, the boats were launched, the crews 
 embarked ; but before they could be dragged into deep 
 water, the spirit of the mist once more drew his impene- 
 trable curtain round them, and after resting a while on their 
 oars, they were compelled to pull back to their old quar- 
 ters. Scarcely had they kindled a fire and begun to dry 
 their clothes, soaked with wading over the flats, when the 
 fog again opened, the boats were launched, and the desired 
 point almost gained; but their tormentor once more enve- 
 loped earth and ocean in a thicker gloom than before. 
 " Fog is, of all others," says Captain Franklin, "the most 
 hazardous state of the atmosphere for navigation in an icy 
 sea, especially where it is accompanied by strong breezes ; 
 but particularly so for boats where the shore is unapproach- 
 able. If caught by a gale, a heavy swell, or drifting ice, 
 the result must be their wreck, or the throwing their provi- 
 sions overboard, to lighten them so as to proceed in shoal 
 water. Many large pieces of ice were seen on the border 
 of the shallow water, and from the lowness of the tempera- 
 ture we concluded that the main body was at no great dis- 
 tance."* 
 
 The nights were now lengthening ; the grasses and the 
 whole aspect of the vegetation was autumnal; their stores 
 of drift-wood had been so much drawn upon, that though 
 the tents were wet through, and they were for warmth 
 obliged to wrap their feet in blankets, no fire was allowed 
 except to cook the victuals. The provisions were barely 
 sufficient for the support of the party on their return, whilst 
 the frequency of the fogs, the shallowness which prevented 
 the boats from floating, the heavy swell, that, as the wind 
 freshened, rose upon the flats, compelled them to haul 
 farther from land ; and the danger which in doing so they 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 156. 
 
242 APPROACH OF WINTER. [1826. 
 
 necessarily incurred from the drift-ice, formed an accumu- 
 lation of difficulties which rendered their progress from 
 Point Anxiety across Prudhoe Bay to Return Reef the 
 most discouraging and painful part of the whole voyage. 
 It was now the 16th of August, and the boats, though the 
 exertions of the crews had been unwearied, were only half- 
 way between the mouth of Mackenzie River and Icy Cape. 
 The young ice had already begun to form at night on the 
 pools of fresh water, and the mind of the commander re- 
 curred naturally and wisely to his former experience. He 
 recollected that only one day later, and in a latitude two 
 degrees more southerly, he had in his first voyage encoun- 
 tered severe storms of wind and snow, and that in another 
 fortnight the winter would set in with all its horrors. 
 Already the sun began to sink below the horizon, and with 
 this change the mean temperature of the atmosphere rapidly 
 decreased; the deer were hastening from the coast; the 
 Esquimaux had ceased to appear; no winter houses gave 
 indications that this remote coast was inhabited; and the 
 autumnal parties of geese hourly winging their flight to the 
 westward, indicated that winter had already surprised them 
 in their polar solitudes. It had been Franklin's great 
 object to double Icy Cape, and meet the expedition under 
 Captain Beechy in Kotzebue's Inlet; but from the distance 
 and the advanced season this was now impracticable. On 
 the other hand, his instructions directed him, "if, incon- 
 sequence of slow progress, or other unforeseen accident, it 
 should remain doubtful whether the expedition should be 
 able to reach Kotzebue's Inlet the same season, to com- 
 mence their return on the 15th or 20th of August." To 
 relinquish the great object of his ambition, and to disap- 
 point the confidence reposed in his exertions, was a sacri- 
 fice which cost him no ordinary pain; and had he been 
 then aware of the fact (with which the reader will be 
 
1826.] EASTERN EXPEDITION. 243 
 
 immediately acquainted) that the barge of the Blossom was 
 at that moment only one hundred and forty- six miles dis- 
 tant, we have his own authority for stating that no difficul- 
 ties or dangers would have prevailed on him to return ; but 
 under the circumstances in which he was placed, to make 
 any farther effort in advance was incompatible with the 
 higher duties which he owed to his officers and crew. After 
 a mature consideration of everything, he formed the reluc- 
 tant conclusion that they had reached the point where per- 
 severance would have been rashness, and their best efforts 
 must have only led to a more calamitous failure.* It was 
 resolved therefore to return; and on the morning of the 
 18th August they began their retreat to the Mackenzie 
 River, which, without any material danger, with the excep- 
 tion of a severe gale encountered off Point Kay, they re- 
 gained on the 4th of September. Thence they proceeded 
 to Fort Franklin, where they met Dr. Richardson, Mr. Ken- 
 dall, and their friends of the eastern expedition, who, after 
 a prosperous and interesting voyage to the mouth of the 
 Coppermine, had returned to the Fort on the 1 st September. 
 Of this interesting journey our limits will only permit 
 a very cursory glance. Fortunately for the eastern expe- 
 dition, the coast between the mouths of the Mackenzie and 
 the Coppermine Rivers presented none of those serious 
 obstacles which at every step were starting up in the dreary 
 and protracted route of the western party; and they con- 
 sequently accomplished a voyage of about five hundred 
 miles between the 4th of July and 8th of August. It was 
 eminently successful in the accurate survey of this hitherto 
 unexplored coast, but unvaried by any remarkable incidents. 
 The Esquimaux on various parts of the coast were more 
 numerous, pacific, comfortable, and wealthy, than the 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, pp. 161, 162, 165. 
 
244 ESQUIMAUX TOWN. [1826. 
 
 western tribes; but their civilization had not eradicated 
 the propensities for thieving. On one occasion the boats 
 were surrounded by a fleet of about fifty kayaks, and an 
 attack w r as made exactly similar to that upon Franklin; 
 but though the object was the same, it was pursued with 
 less vigour, and the moment the sailors levelled their 
 muskets the whole party dispersed with precipitation. 
 
 On arriving at Atkinson Island they discovered, under 
 shelter of a chain of sand-hills drifted by the wind to the 
 height of thirty feet, a small Esquimaux town, consisting 
 of seventeen winter houses, besides a larger building, which 
 Dr. Richardson at first conjectured to be a house of assembly 
 for the tribe. Ooligbuck the interpreter, however, whose 
 ideas were more gross and commonplace, pronounced it to 
 be a general eating-room. " This large building," says 
 Dr. Richardson, " was in the interior a square of twenty- 
 seven feet, having the log roof supported on two strong- 
 ridge-poles two feet apart, and resting on four upright 
 posts. The floor in the centre formed of split logs, dressed 
 and laid with great care, was surrounded by a raised border 
 about three feet wide, which was no doubt meant for seats. 
 The walls, three feet high, were inclined outwards, for the 
 convenience of leaning the back against them, and the 
 ascent to the door, which was on the south side, was formed 
 of logs. The outside, which was covered with earth, had 
 nearly a hemispherical form, and round its base were ranged 
 the skulls of twenty-one whales. There was a square hole 
 in the roof, and the central log of the floor had a basin- 
 shaped cavity one foot in diameter, which was perhaps 
 intended for a lamp. The general attention to comfort in 
 the construction of the village, and the erection of a building 
 of such magnitude, requiring a union of purpose in a con- 
 siderable number of people, were evidences of a more 
 advanced progress towards civilization than had yet been 
 
1826.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES.! 245 
 
 found amongst the E squimaux. Whale-skulls were confined 
 to the large building, and to one of the dwelling-houses, 
 which had three or four placed round it. Many wooden 
 trays and hand-barrows for carrying whale-blubber were 
 lying on the ground, most of them in a state of decay."* 
 
 On making the traverse of Harrowby Bay, land was 
 seen round the bottom ; and on nearing shore twelve tents 
 were distinguished on an adjoining eminence. When the 
 boats appeared, a woman who was walking along the beach 
 gave the alarm, and the men rushed out, brandishing their 
 knives, and employing the most furious expressions. In 
 vain Ooligbuck endeavoured to calm their apprehensions, 
 explaining that the strangers were friends; they only 
 replied by shouts, leaps, or hideous grimaces, intended 
 to inspire terror, and displayed great agility, frequently 
 standing on one foot and throwing the other nearly as high 
 as their head. Dr. Richardson, nothing intimidated by these 
 gesticulations, bethought himself of enouncing, at the 
 highest key he could reach, the word "Noowcerlawgo," 
 meaning, " I wish to barter," and the sound operated like 
 a spell. The savages instantly became quiet ; one of them 
 ran to his kayak, paddled off to the boats, and was followed 
 by crowds, who fearlessly came alongside, readily exchang- 
 ing bows, arrows, spears, and dressed seal-skins, for bits of 
 old iron-hoop, files, and beads. " The females," says 
 Richardson, " unlike those of the Indian tribes, had much 
 handsomer features than the men; and one young woman 
 of the party would have been deemed pretty even in Europe. 
 Our presents seemed to render them perfectly happy, and 
 they danced with such ecstacy in their slender boats as to 
 incur more than once great hazard of being overset. A 
 bundle of strings of beads being thrown into an oomiak, it 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 217. 
 
246 THE COPPERMINE RIVER. [1826. 
 
 was caught by an old woman, who hugged the treasure to 
 her breast with the strongest expression of rapture; while 
 another elderly dame, who had stretched out her arms in 
 vain, became the very picture of despair. On its being 
 explained, however, that the present was intended for the 
 whole party, an amicable division took place; and to show 
 their gratitude, they sang a song to a pleasing air, keeping 
 time with their oars. They gave us many pressing invita- 
 tions to pass the night at their tents, in which they were 
 joined by the men ; and to excite our liberality, the mothers 
 drew their children out of their wide boots, where they are 
 accustomed to carry them naked, and holding them up, 
 begged beads for them. For a time their entreaties were 
 successful; but being desirous of getting clear of our visiters 
 before breakfast- time, we at length told them the stock was 
 exhausted, and they took leave."* 
 
 The voyage, owing to the clear atmosphere, the unen- 
 cumbered state of the coast, and the abundant supply of 
 provisions, was pursued with ease and comfort; and on 8th 
 August having made a bold cape, rising precipitously from 
 the sea to the height of three hundred and fifty feet, Dr. 
 Richardson and Mr. Kendall climbed the promontory, and 
 descried in the distance the gap in the hills at Bloody Fall, 
 through which the Coppermine holds its course. Delighted 
 with the prospect of so near a termination of their labours, 
 they communicated the intelligence to the crew, who re- 
 ceived it with expressions of profound gratitude to the 
 Divine Being for his protection during the voyage. On 
 reaching the river the men were in excellent condition, 
 fresh and vigorous for the march across the barren grounds 
 on their return to Fort Franklin, which, as already men- 
 tioned, they reached in safety on the 1st of September. 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 226. 
 
1826.] RETURN TO FORT FRANKLIN. 247 
 
 On approaching within a few days' journey of the fort, a 
 pleasant adventure occurred, characteristic of Indian grati- 
 tude and friendship. The party had supped, and most of 
 the men were retired to rest, when Mr. Kendall, in sweep- 
 ing the horizon with his telescope, descried three Indians 
 coming down a hill towards the encampment. More moss 
 was thrown on the fire, and the St. George's ensign hoisted 
 on the end of a musket, to show the comers that they were 
 approaching friends; but they hid the youngest of their 
 number in a ravine, and approached slowly and with sus- 
 picion. Mr. Kendall and Dr. Richardson immediately 
 went unarmed to meet them, and as they came up one held 
 his bow and arrows ready in his hand, and the other cocked 
 his gun; but as soon as they recognised the doctor's dress, 
 the same he had worn the preceding autumn in his voyage 
 round Bear Lake, and which was familiar to most of the 
 Hare Indians, they shouted in an ecstacy of joy, shook 
 hands most cordially, and called loudly for the young lad 
 whom they had hid to come up. " The meeting," says Dr. 
 Richardson, " was highly gratifying to ourselves as well as 
 to the kind natives ; for they seemed to be friends come to 
 rejoice with us on the happy termination of our voyage/'* 
 It had naturally occurred to government, that if the 
 expeditions under Captains Parry and Franklin should be 
 successful, their stores would be exhausted by the time 
 they reached Behring's Strait. It was certain also that 
 Franklin would be destitute of any means of conveyance to 
 Europe; and to supply these wants, government resolved 
 that a vessel should be sent out to await their arrival in 
 Behring's Strait. For this purpose, accordingly, Captain 
 F. W. Beechey sailed in the Blossom from Spithead on 
 the 19th May 1825. The vessel was a twenty-six gun 
 
 * Franklin's Second Journey, p. 274. 
 
248 beechey's voyage. [1825. 
 
 ship; but on this occasion mounted only sixteen. She 
 was partially strengthened, and adapted to this peculiar 
 service by increasing her stowage. A boat was also sup- 
 plied to be used as a tender, built as large as the space on 
 deck would allow, schooner-rigged, decked, and fitted up 
 in the most complete manner. Cloth, beads, cutlery, and 
 various other articles of traffic, were put on board, and a 
 variety of anti- scorbutics were added to the usual allowance 
 of provision. Aware that he must traverse a large portion 
 of the globe hitherto little explored, and that a consider- 
 able period would elapse before his presence was required 
 on the coast of America, Captain Beechey was instructed 
 to survey the parts of the Pacific within his reach, of which 
 it was important to navigators that a more correct delinea- 
 tion should be laid down. These observations were not, 
 however, to retard his arrival at the appointed rendezvous 
 later than the 10th of July 1826; and he was directed to 
 remain at Behring's Strait to the end of October, or to as 
 late a period as the season would admit, without incurring 
 the risk of spending the winter there. During this interval 
 he was to navigate from Kotzebue's Sound northward, and 
 afterwards to continue in an easterly course along the main 
 shore as far as the ice would allow. Captain Beechey's 
 survey of various portions of the Pacific does not fall within 
 the plan of thi3 work. 
 
 On the 2d of June, having left the Sandwich Isles, he 
 shaped his course for Kamtschatka, and on the 27th was 
 becalmed within six miles of Petropalauski. The best 
 guides to this harbour are a range of high mountains, on 
 one of which, upwards of eleven thousand feet in height, 
 a volcano is in constant action. It was a serene and beau- 
 tiful evening when they approached this remote quarter of 
 the world, and all were struck with the magnificence of the 
 mountains capped with perennial snow, and rising in solemn 
 
1826.] STILL NIGHT IN THE AECTIC REGIONS. 249 
 
 grandeur one above the other. At intervals the volcano 
 emitted dark columns of smoke ; and from a sprinkling of 
 black spots upon the snow to the leeward it was conjectured 
 there had been a recent eruption. From Petropalauski 
 Captain Beechy sailed on the 1st of July for Kotzebue's 
 Sound. " We approached/' says he, " the strait which 
 separates the two great continents of Asia and America, 
 on one of those beautiful still nights well known to all who 
 have visited the arctic regions, when the sky is without a 
 cloud, and when the midnight sun, scarcely his own dia- 
 meter below the horizon, tinges with a bright hue all the 
 northern circle. Our ship, propelled by an increasing 
 breeze, glided rapidly along a smooth sea, startling from 
 her path flocks of aquatic birds, whose flight, in the deep 
 silence of the scene, could be traced by the ear to a great 
 distance." Having closed in with the American shore 
 some miles northward of Cape Prince of Wales, they were 
 visited by a little Esquimaux squadron belonging to a vil- 
 lage situated on a low sandy island. The natives readily 
 sold everything they possessed, and were cheerful and 
 good-humoured, though exceedingly noisy and energetic. 
 Their bows were more slender than those of the islanders 
 to the southward, but made on the same principle, with 
 drift-pine, assisted with thongs of hide, or pieces of whale- 
 bone placed at the back, and neatly bound with small cord. 
 The points of their arrows were of bone, flint, or iron, and 
 their spears headed with the same materials. Their dress 
 was similar to that of the other tribes on the coast. It con- 
 sisted of a shirt, which reached half-way down the thigh, 
 with long sleeves, and a hood of rein-deer skin, and edged 
 with gray or white fox fur. Besides this they had a jacket 
 of eider-drake skins sewed together, which, when engaged 
 in war, they wore below their other dress, reckoning it a 
 tolerably efficient protection against an arrow or a spear- 
 
250 LUDICROUS APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES. [1826. 
 
 thrust. In wet weather they threw over the fur dress a 
 shirt made of the entrails of the whale, which, being well 
 saturated with oil and grease, was water-tight ; and they 
 also used breeches of deer's hide, and seal-skin boots, to 
 the upper end of which were fixed strings of sea-horse hide. 
 It was their fashion to tie one of these strings round the 
 waist, and attach to it a long tuft of hair, the wing of a 
 bird, or sometimes a fox's tail, which, dangling behind as 
 they walked, gave them a ridiculous appearance, and may 
 probably have occasioned the report of the Tschuktschi re- 
 corded in Muller, that the people of this country have tails 
 like dogs.* 
 
 On the 2 2d July the ship anchored in Kotzebue's Sound, 
 and after exploring a deep inlet on its northern shore, which 
 they named Hotham Inlet, proceeded to Chamisso Island, 
 where the Blossom was to await Captain Franklin. A dis- 
 cretionary power had, however, been permitted to Captain 
 Beechey, of employing the period of his stay in surveying 
 the coast, provided this could be done without the risk ot 
 missing Captain Franklin. Having accordingly directed 
 the barge to keep in- shore on the look-out for the land- 
 party, he sailed to the northward, and doubling Cape Kru- 
 senstern, completed an examination of the coast by Cape 
 Thomson, Point Hope, Cape Lisborn, Cape Beaufort, and 
 Icy Cape, the farthest point reached by Captain Cook. As 
 there were here strong indications of the ice closing in, and 
 his instructions were positive to keep in open water if pos- 
 sible, he determined to return to Kotzebue's Sound, whilst 
 he despatched the barge under Mr. Elson and Mr. Smyth, 
 to trace the coast to the north-eastward, as far as they could 
 navigate. 
 
 On this interesting service the barge set out on 17th 
 
 * Beechey's Voyage, vol. i. p. 341. 
 
1826.] AURORA BOREALIS. 251 
 
 August, whilst Beechey returned towards Kotzebue's 
 Sound. On the night of the 25th they beheld, for the 
 first time in these northern latitudes, a brilliant display of 
 the Aurora Borealis. " It first appeared," says Captain 
 Beech ey, "in an arch extending from west by north to 
 north-east ; but the arch, shortly after its first appearance, 
 broke up and entirely disappeared. Soon after this, how- 
 ever, a new display began in the direction of the western 
 foot of the first arch, preceded by a bright flame from which 
 emanated coruscations of a pale straw colour. An almost 
 simultaneous movement occurred at both extremities of the 
 arch, until a complete segment was formed of wavering 
 perpendicular radii. As soon as the arch was complete, 
 the light became greatly increased, and the prismatic 
 colours, which had before been faint, now shone forth in a 
 very brilliant manner. The strongest colours, which were 
 also the outside ones, were pink and green, on the green 
 side purple and pink, all of which were as imperceptibly 
 blended as in the rainbow. The green was the colour 
 nearest the zenith. This magnificent display lasted a few 
 minutes ; and the light had nearly vanished, when the 
 north-east quarter sent forth a vigorous display, and nearly 
 at the same time a corresponding coruscation emanated 
 from the opposite extremity. The western foot of the arch 
 then disengaged itself from the horizon, crooked to the 
 northward, and the whole retired to the north-east quarter, 
 where a bright spot blazed for a moment, and all was 
 darkness. There was no noise audible during any part 
 of our observations, nor were the compasses perceptibly 
 affected."* During the voyage back to Chamisso Island, 
 where they arrived on 27 th August, they had repeated in- 
 terviews with the Esquimaux, whose habits and disposition 
 
 * Beechey 's Voyage, vol. i. p. 387. 
 
252 ESQUIMAUX CHARACTER AND CUSTOMS. [1826. 
 
 were in no respect different from those of the natives already 
 described. They found them uniformly friendly, sociable, 
 devotedly fond of tobacco, eager to engage in traffic, and 
 upon the whole honest, though disposed to drive a hard 
 bargain. On some occasions they attempted to impose 
 upon their customers, by skins artfully put together, so as 
 to represent an entire fish ; but it was difficult to determine 
 whether they intended a serious fraud or only a piece of 
 humour, for they laughed heartily when detected, and ap- 
 peared to consider it a good joke. Their persons, houses, 
 and cookery, were all exceedingly dirty, and their mode 
 of salutation was by a mutual contact of noses ; sometimes 
 licking their hands, and stroking first their own faces, and 
 afterwards those of the strangers.* The rapidity with 
 which these people migrated from place to place was re- 
 markable. On one occasion the motions of two baidars 
 under sail were watched by the crew of the Blossom. The 
 people landed at a spot near Choris Peninsula, drew up the 
 boats on the beach, turning them bottom upwards, pitched 
 tents, and in an incredibly short time transferred to them 
 the whole contents of their little vessels. On visiting the 
 encampment an hour after, everything was found in as 
 complete order as if they had been domiciliated on the spot 
 for months ; and the surprise of the sailors was raised to 
 the highest by the variety of articles which, in almost 
 endless succession, they produced from their little boats. 
 u From the two baidars they landed fourteen persons, eight 
 tent-poles, forty deer-skins, two kayaks, many hundred- 
 weight of fish, numerous skins of oil, earthen jars for cook- 
 ing, two living foxes, ten large dogs, bundles of lances, 
 harpoons, bows and arrows, a quantity of whalebone, skins 
 full of clothing, some immense nets made of hide, for taking 
 
 * Beechey's Voyage, vol. i. pp. 345, 391. 
 
1826.] elson's expedition. 253 
 
 small whales and porpoises, eight broad planks, masts, 
 sails, paddles, &c, besides sea-horse hides and teeth, and 
 a variety of nameless articles always to be found among 
 the Esquimaux."* 
 
 In the meantime, Mr. Elson in the barge proceeded 
 along the shore for seventy miles, as far as a promontory, 
 denominated by Beechey Cape Barrow, which was after- 
 wards discovered to be only distant one hundred and forty- 
 six miles from the extreme point of Franklin's discoveries. 
 Upon this new line of coast posts were erected at various 
 distances with directions for Captain Franklin, should he 
 succeed in pushing so far to the westward. A frequent 
 communication was opened with the inhabitants, who were 
 found to resemble the other Esquimaux, with the unplea- 
 sant difference that their manners were more rude and 
 boisterous, and their conduct in some instances decidedly 
 hostile. Point Barrow, the most northerly part of Ame- 
 rica yet discovered, formed the termination to a spit of 
 land jutting out several miles from the more regular coast 
 line. The width of the neck did not exceed a mile and a 
 half; on the extremity were several small lakes, and on 
 its eastern side a village. The danger of being shut in by 
 the ice was now great, and Mr. Elson determined to land, 
 obtain the necessary observations, erect a post, and de- 
 posite instructions for Franklin. This plan, however, was 
 frustrated by the violent conduct of the natives, who as- 
 sembled in formidable numbers, and threatened to attack 
 the crew of the barge, which consisted only of eight men. 
 It was therefore judged prudent to proceed as speedily as 
 possible to the rendezvous at Chamisso Island, which they 
 reached on the 9th of September, not without considerable 
 difficulty, having been obliged to track the barge round 
 
 * Beechey's Voyage, vol. i. p. 405. 
 
254 RETURN OF REECHEY. [1827. 
 
 Cape Smyth, through a sea thickly beset with ice, that 
 threatened every moment to close with its impenetrable 
 walls, and cut off their return. The result of Captain 
 Beechey's voyage, and of the expedition undertaken under 
 his orders by Mr. Elson and Mr. Smyth, was the addition 
 of a new and extensive line of coast to the geography of 
 the polar regions. The actual distance between the ex- 
 treme points reached by Captain Franklin and Mr. Elson 
 being so small, there is every reason to believe that the 
 navigation of this remaining portion will not be attended 
 with any very formidable or insurmountable obstacles. 
 
 In the following year, Beechey, in obedience to his 
 instructions, returned to Kotzebue's Sound, and recom- 
 menced his examination of the coast in the hope of ex- 
 tending his survey beyond Cape Barrow, and either joining 
 Franklin or collecting some certain intelligence regarding 
 his enterprise. In both objects he had the mortification 
 to fail. He found the posts erected the preceding year 
 and the buried bottles remaining untouched, and the state 
 of the weather rendered it necessary to put about before 
 reaching Icy Cape. It had been previously arranged, that 
 the signal to be used by Franklin, if he arrived on an 
 unknown coast during the night, should be a beacon kindled 
 on the cliffs ; and on passing Cape Krusenstern after dark, 
 their attention was arrested by a large fire blazing on an 
 eminence. Every eye on board was fixed on the welcome 
 light, and every bosom beat with the delightful expectation 
 of soon seeing their friends. The ship was brought to, and 
 hope almost passed into certainty, as a boat was seen pull- 
 ing from the shore. On examining her through the teles- 
 cope by the light of the Aurora Borealis, some sanguine 
 spirits declared they could discern that she was propelled 
 by oars instead of paddles, and it needed only a slight 
 additional exertion of the fancy to be assured that the dress 
 
1827-] ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. 255 
 
 of the crew was European. In the midst of these excited 
 and enthusiastic feelings, the harsh and boisterous voices 
 of the natives suddenly broke on their ear, and the pleasing 
 picture which their imagination had been so busy in con- 
 structing faded away in a moment, leaving nothing before 
 them but two sorry Esquimaux baidars and their unlovely 
 occupants. 
 
 From this point Captain Beechey's voyage presented 
 few features of new or striking interest. In Behring's 
 Strait they were visited by a splendid exhibition of the 
 Aurora Borealis, and under its coruscations of pink, purple, 
 and green rays, which shot up to the zenith in the shape 
 of a gigantic cone, they anchored off Chamisso Island. 
 After the discovery of two capacious harbours, which they 
 named Port Clarence and Grantley Harbour, they took 
 their final departure from the Polar Sea on the 6th October 
 1827. On the 29th, a flight of large white pelicans ap- 
 prized them of their approach to the coast of California ; 
 and after touching at Monterey and San Bias, they arrived 
 at Valparaiso on the 29th April 1828. On the 30th June 
 they passed the meridian of Cape Horn in a gloomy snow- 
 storm, and made Rio on the 21st July. Their voyage 
 from Rio to England was completed in forty-nine days, 
 and they arrived at Spithead on the 12th October 1828. 
 He found that the expedition of Franklin had preceded 
 him in his return by more than a year, having reached 
 Liverpool on the 26th September 1827 ; its transactions 
 occupied two years and nearly eight months, whilst Beech ey 
 had been absent on his voyage three years and a half. 
 
256 EXPEDITIONS TO THE NORTHERN COASTS. [1832. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Recent Discoveries. 
 Captain Back's Overland Journey to the Arctic Sea, 1833-35. 
 
 While Captain Franklin, with that persevering energy 
 which forms one of the prominent features in his character, 
 was struggling against innumerable difficulties in surveying 
 the northern coasts of America by land, as narrated in the 
 last chapter, two expeditions, in addition to the one under 
 the command of Captain Beechey, were fitted out and 
 despatched from England to aim at the accomplishment of 
 the same object by sea. The first, commanded by Captain 
 Parry, sailed in 1824, with the view of exploring the 
 bottom of Prince Regent's Inlet, through which, it was 
 hoped, a passage might be found leading into the Polar 
 Sea. It consisted of two ships, the Hecla and Fury — the 
 first being commanded by Captain Parry, the second by 
 Commander Hoppner. After spending a long, dreary 
 winter in the arctic seas, they returned to England in the 
 autumn of 1825, having abandoned the Fury, which was 
 so severely damaged by the ice as to be quite unfit for sea. 
 
 The second expedition referred to was that of Captain 
 Lyon, who sailed in the "Griper," in June 1825, and after 
 a voyage, in which he and his gallant crew experienced 
 the most dreadful sufferings and danger, returned to Eng- 
 land the same year. As these attempts, however, were 
 made by sea, and are described in another volume of this 
 series, we pass them over without further detail, and hasten 
 to notice the overland journeys which form more specially 
 the object of the present volume. 
 
 From the year 1826 to 1833, no attempt had been made 
 by land to continue the survey of the northern coasts of 
 America. But about 1832 great anxiety began to be felt 
 
1833.] PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 257 
 
 about the fate of Sir John Ross, who sailed from England 
 in the year 1829, and had not been heard of since. He 
 commanded a small vessel called the Victory, which was 
 fitted out entirely at the expense of himself and the late 
 Sir Felix Booth, for the purpose of continuing his northern 
 discoveries, and enabling him to vindicate his reputation as 
 an able and enterprising navigator, which latter had been 
 somewhat doubted in consequence of the ill success of a 
 previous voyage to Baffin's Bay. 
 
 It was accordingly resolved by the friends of Captain 
 Ross to send an expedition overland to the shores of the 
 Arctic Sea in search of him, and a fitting leader for it was 
 found in the well-tried and experienced Captain Back, 
 who no sooner heard of such a project being contemplated, 
 than he hastened from Italy, where he happened to be 
 at the time, and offered his services. Mr. Ross, the 
 brother of Sir John, and father of Captain James Ross, 
 drew up a petition to the king, " praying his Majesty's 
 gracious sanction to the immediate despatch of an expedi- 
 tion for rescuing or at least ascertaining the fate of his 
 son and brother;" and Captain Back's name being in- 
 serted as a leader, the petition was forwarded, and shortly 
 after received the royal assent. A grant of £2000 was 
 also made by government, while a public subscription 
 soon placed at the disposal of Captain Ross's friends a 
 sum that was more than sufficient to defray all the ex- 
 penses of the undertaking. 
 
 So great was the anxiety felt by the public and private 
 friends of the Arctic explorer, that everything was done 
 that could be devised for the furtherance of the searching 
 expedition. The Hudson's Bay Company, besides supply- 
 ing a large quantity of provisions, two boats, and two 
 canoes, gratis, took the expedition under their special pro- 
 tection, by issuing a commission under their seal to Captain 
 
 R 
 
258 INSTRUCTIONS. [Jg^ 
 
 Back as its commander, thereby securing to him the effec- 
 tual co-operation of all parties throughout their extensive 
 territories. It was also deemed expedient on many accounts, 
 but more especially to give Captain Back additional autho- 
 rity over the men under his command, that the mission 
 should be taken under the direction of his Majesty's govern- 
 ment; and accordingly he received the following instruc- 
 tions from the Colonial Office: — "The Lords Commissioners 
 of the Admiralty having been pleased to lend your services 
 to this office, that you may conduct an expedition now 
 preparing to proceed to the Polar Sea in search of Captain 
 Ross, you are hereby required and directed to undertake 
 this service, placing yourself for the purpose at the disposi- 
 tion of the governor and committee of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, who have undertaken to furnish you with the 
 requisite resources and supplies. You are to leave Liver- 
 pool early in the present month [February 1833], and 
 proceed with your party by way of New York to Montreal, 
 and thence along the usual route pursued by the North- 
 west traders to Great Slave Lake. * * * You are 
 then to strike off to the north-eastward, or in such other 
 direction as you may ascertain to be most expedient, in 
 order to gain the Thlew-ee-choh-desseth, or Great Fish 
 River, which is believed either to issue from Slave Lake, 
 or to rise in its vicinity, and thence to flow with a navigable 
 course to the northward, till it reaches the sea. On arriving 
 on the banks of this river, you are to select a convenient 
 situation for a winter residence, and immediately appoint a 
 portion of your force to erect a house thereon ; but, if pos- 
 sible, you are to proceed yourself, with an adequate party, 
 and explore the river to the coast the same season, erecting 
 a conspicuous landmark at its mouth, and leaving notice 
 of your intention to return the ensuing spring, in case Cap- 
 tain Ross should be making progress along this part of the 
 
fg^gj THE EXPEDITION SAILS. 259 
 
 shore." After directing him to construct two boats, with 
 which to proceed to the sea, and explore the coast of the 
 Arctic Ocean, and especially to examine the coast around 
 Cape Garry, where the Fury was wrecked, and on the 
 stores of which it was known that Captain Ross in some 
 measure relied, the instructions go on to say : " Devoting 
 the summer, then, to the interesting search in contempla- 
 tion, it is unnecessary to recommend to you to make it 
 as effectual as possible, consistently with a due regard for 
 the health and preservation of your party." * * * 
 " Subordinate to your object of finding Captain Ross, or 
 any survivors or survivor of his party, you are to direct 
 your attention to mapping what yet remains unknown of 
 the coasts which you will visit, and making such other 
 scientific observations as your leisure will admit, for which 
 purposes the requisite instruments will be supplied to 
 
 y OU '»* * * * 
 
 Armed with this authority, as well as by that given to 
 him by the Hudson's Bay Company, Captain Back, Mr. 
 King (surgeon and naturalist to the expedition), and three 
 men, two of whom had served in a former expedition under 
 Captain Franklin, embarked in the packet- ship Hibernia, 
 Captain Maxwell, from Liverpool, and on the 17th Feb- 
 ruary 1833 sailed for America. 
 
 Eight months after their departure, Captain Ross and the 
 survivors of his party, whom a merciful God had brought 
 in safety through dangers and privations unparalleled in 
 arctic story, arrived in England after an absence of four 
 years and five months. During this protracted period they 
 had made very important geographical discoveries; fixed 
 the position of the northern magnetic pole, and experienced 
 hardships and privations, and encountered dangers, that 
 
 * Back's Journal, pp. 13, 16. 
 
260 REACHES CANADA. Km* 
 
 fill us with admiration and wonder at the endurance and 
 fortitude of the men who dared and overcame them all. 
 Their little vessel, the Victory, having become unfit for 
 use, had been abandoned, and the wanderers were at last 
 providentially discovered by a whaler, the Isabella of Hull, 
 which conveyed them from the icy regions, where they had 
 been so long immured, to the sunny shores of their native 
 land. Although the principal object of the expedition 
 under Captain Back was thus obviated, yet the despatches 
 containing the intelligence did not overtake him until after 
 he had reached his winter quarters in the sterile and 
 romantic regions of the north; so that, even had it been 
 desirable, he could not have returned home. As it was, 
 however, he received the intelligence early enough to pre- 
 vent his wasting time in the now unnecessary search; and 
 he accordingly turned his undivided attention to the second 
 object of the expedition. 
 
 Following, then, in the wake of our enterprising ex- 
 plorer, let us wing our way over the heaving surges of the 
 wide Atlantic; let us track him and his gallant companions 
 as they thread their way through the forests of Canada, and 
 dive fearlessly into the wild unpeopled solitudes of the far 
 north, casting a glance to the right and left as we go, and 
 noting the wonders of a land, than which there is not 
 another on this fair earth more fraught with interest, or 
 more prolific of strange and wild adventure. 
 
 After spending a few days in Montreal, where he en- 
 gaged three artillerymen for the service, Captain Back and 
 his party went to Lachine, a small village on the banks of 
 the Ottawa, a short distance below the confluence of that 
 noble river and the St. Lawrence. Here they found that 
 the Hudson's Bay Company's agent had made every pre- 
 paration for their voyage ; and here they were introduced 
 to the first tangible bit of north-west life, in the shape of 
 
jgg L ] CANOES LEAVE LACHTNE. 261 
 
 their two bark canoes, manned by Canadians and Iroquois. 
 Into these the travellers stepped. After bidding adieu to their 
 friends at Lachine, who, along with a number of the officers 
 of the garrison at Montreal, and a large concourse of the 
 villagers assembled to see them depart, " we embarked," 
 says Back, " amidst the most enthusiastic cheers and firing 
 of musketry. The two canoes shot rapidly through the 
 smooth water of the canal, and were followed by the dense 
 crowd on the banks. A few minutes brought us to the St. 
 Lawrence, and, as we turned the stems of our little vessels 
 up that noble stream, one long loud huzza bade us farewell!" 
 One of the canoes in which they commenced their 
 journey was of the kind used by the fur traders while 
 travelling on the great lakes of Canada. They are much 
 larger than those afterwards used in ascending and de- 
 scending the innumerable lakes and rivers of the interior, 
 and are capable of carrying fourteen or sixteen men as a 
 crew, besides their provisions for many weeks ; yet can be 
 carried, when necessary, on the shoulders of four men. 
 At the head of Lake Superior, the last of the great Cana- 
 dian chain, these large canoes are usually changed for 
 "north canoes," which, being much smaller, are more 
 manageable in shallow and intricate waters; taking only 
 eight men as a crew, two of whom are capable of carrying 
 them many miles overland. They are made of birch bark, 
 cut into oblongs, and sewed over a framework of exceed- 
 ingly thin timbers, the seams being covered over and 
 -endered water-tight by a coating of gum. The bow and 
 stern are nearly alike, being sharp and turned up at the 
 ends, which ends are fancifully, and sometimes tastefully 
 painted by the voyageurs, and, combined with the bright 
 yellow colour of the bark, give to the fragile boat a light 
 and pleasing, though somewhat gaudy appearance. They 
 are very elegant and rapid when in motion, and it is quite 
 
262 INDIAN CANOES. 
 
 Mat 
 1833. 
 
 impossible to give an adequate idea of the fairy-like buoy- 
 ancy of the north canoe as it bounds upon the surging 
 rapids, or skims over the lovely lakes, urged forward by 
 the vermilion- coloured paddles of eight stalwart voyageurs, 
 whose swart countenances, wild locks, glittering eyes, and 
 gaudy habiliments, harmonize in character with the rapid 
 yet mellodious and peculiarly plaintive songs with which 
 they fill the air and awaken the echoes of the wilderness. 
 Canoes are very shaky machines, however, and are easily 
 upset or broken, especially those used by the Indians, 
 which are much smaller than north canoes, being often 
 made so small as to be capable of carrying but two persons, 
 and sometimes only one. The following description of a 
 paddle over an American lake will convey some idea of the 
 buoyancy and portability of the Indian canoe. The writer, 
 who had been spending the afternoon with some friends 
 who lived on the shores of a small lake in the woods, says : — 
 " In the evening I began to think of returning to the 
 fort, but no boat or canoe could be found small enough to 
 be paddled by one man, and as no one seemed inclined to 
 go with me, I began to fear that I should have to remain 
 all night. At last, a young Indian told me that he had a 
 hunting canoe, which I might have, if I chose to venture 
 across the lake in it, but it was very small. I instantly 
 accepted his offer, and, bidding adieu to my friends at the 
 parsonage, followed him down to a small creek overshaded 
 by trees, where, concealed among the reeds and bushes, 
 lay the canoe. It could not, I should think, have measured 
 more than three yards in length, by eighteen inches in 
 breadth at the middle, whence it tapered at either end to a 
 thin edge. It was made of birch bark, scarcely a quarter 
 of an inch thick, and its weight may be imagined, when I 
 say that the Indian lifted it from the ground with one 
 hand and placed it in the water, at the same time handing 
 
ISal.] ROMANTIC PADDLE. 263 
 
 me a small light paddle. I stepped in with great care, 
 and the frail bark trembled with my weight as I seated 
 myself, and pushed out into the lake. The sun had just 
 set, and his expiring rays cast a glare upon the overhang- 
 ing clouds in the west, whilst the shades of night gathered 
 thickly over the eastern horizon. Not a breath of wind 
 disturbed the glassy smoothness of the water, in which 
 every golden-tinted cloud was mirrored with a fidelity that 
 rendered it difficult to say which was image and which 
 reality. The little bark darted through the water with the 
 greatest ease, and as I passed among the deepening sha- 
 dows of the lofty pines, and across the gilded waters of the 
 bay, a wild enthusiasm seized me ; I strained with all my 
 strength upon the paddle, and the sparkling drops flew in 
 showers behind me, as the little canoe flew over the water, 
 more like a phantom than reality; when, suddenly, I missed 
 my stroke ; my whole weight was thrown on one side ; the 
 water gurgled over the gunwale of the canoe, and my heart 
 leapt to my mouth, as I looked for an instant into the dark 
 water. It was only for a moment; in another instant the 
 canoe righted, and I paddled the remainder of the way in 
 a much more gentle manner — enthusiasm gone, and a most 
 wholesome degree of timidity pervading my entire frame. 
 It was dark when I reached the fort, and upon landing I 
 took the canoe under my arm, and carried it up the bank 
 with nearly as much ease as if it had been a camp-stool!" 
 The canoe here spoken of is a hunting canoe, and is only 
 used by the native of these regions when away from his 
 wigwam on a hunting expedition. Those generally used 
 are somewhat larger, and, when the natives are changing 
 their place of residence, and travelling by water in search 
 of another, are so stuffed with men, women, children, furs, 
 guns, kettles, blankets, and dogs, as to leave little more 
 than two or three inches out of the water. Nevertheless, 
 
264 SCENERY ON THE LAKES AND K1VEKS. [^ 
 
 they rarely upset, their owners being accustomed to them 
 from the tenderest years of infancy. Many a good duck- 
 ing, however, have these same canoes given to the servants 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company, especially during their 
 first year's sojourn in the country; and oftentimes have 
 bragging young fellows — just landed, fresh from the re- 
 straints of the old country, and big with thoughts of daring 
 deeds and wild adventure — ventured into these unsteady 
 conveyances ; and, after galvanically heaving about their 
 arms and jerking their bodies to and fro, in the vain attempt 
 to recover their equilibrium, have been obliged to souse into 
 the water, and splutter ingloriously to the shore. 
 
 The scenery through which Captain Back and his com- 
 panions here passed was varied and beautiful. Sometimes 
 the canoes were glancing over the calm waters of a little 
 lake, whose unruffled bosom reflected, with softened out- 
 line, the luxuriant verdure on its shore. At other times the 
 picturesque voyageurs were slowly stemming the current of 
 a brawling rapid, or, when a foaming cascade intercepted 
 them, carrying canoe and baggage on their shoulders; 
 tearing through break and over plain, sometimes on good 
 ground, and often over the ankles in mud or swamp, with the 
 light-hearted indifference peculiar to Canadian voyageurs. 
 Now, they were crossing a traverse in one of the great 
 lakes, whose boundless horizon, rolling waves, and pebbly 
 shore, gave it all the appearance of the ocean; and anon 
 they were driven to seek shelter from the thunder- storm or 
 the tempest in some bay or inlet, where, under the canopy 
 of the forest trees, their tents were pitched, their fires kin- 
 dled, and soon crackling and blazing up into the heavens ; 
 their kettles bubbling ; their tobacco pipes smoking, and 
 themselves reclining on their blankets, the very picture of 
 terrestrial happiness, in spite of wind and weather ! They 
 were not exempt from real discomforts, however. Occa- 
 
1833.3 LAKE SUPERIOR FORT WILLIAM. 265 
 
 sionally they were detained by head winds, and, during the 
 first part of the journey, Captain Back was much annoyed 
 by the tendency of his men to desert ; the fickle Canadians 
 being much addicted to change their minds, especially 
 when the voyage on which they enter is likely to prove 
 long or arduous. 
 
 They proceeded up the Ottawa, passing several of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company's establishments, at which they 
 were always most hospitably entertained, and the detached, 
 thinly scattered dwellings of the bush farmers and wood- 
 cutters, who may be looked upon as the pioneers of civili- 
 zation. Leaving the Ottawa, they diverged to the left, up 
 a deep black stream, so overhung by sombre rocks and 
 trees, and so bleak and lifeless, that it seemed the very 
 home of melancholy and despair. It took them to Lake 
 Nipising, whence they descended by the Riviere des Fran- 
 cais into Lake Huron, where their progress was so impeded 
 by fogs and head winds, that it was not until the 11th of 
 May that they reached the Sault de Ste Marie, at the head 
 of the lake, and the extreme point to which civilization has 
 yet extended. 
 
 Here they purchased a third canoe to carry additional 
 provisions, and commenced coasting along the northern 
 shores of Lake Superior — a distance of upwards of three 
 hundred miles — and arrived on the 20th May at the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company's establishment, Fort William. It 
 was here that the large canoes were to be exchanged for 
 the smaller, and a short delay took place in consequence 
 of the difficulty the men had in dividing the lading among 
 them. 
 
 " An entire day," says Back, " was now devoted to the 
 examining and repacking of our various stores and instru- 
 ments. Our ' north canoe,' brought from Montreal, was 
 also repaired ; for, lumbered as we were with provisions, it 
 
266 ARRANGING CARGOES. [^ 
 
 was found impracticable to ascend the shallow waters of 
 the Kamenistaquoia without taking her, in addition to the 
 two new ones ; and I did this the less reluctantly as no extra 
 expense was thus incurred, and there were hands enough 
 to manage the three. 
 
 " The Canadian voyageur is, in all respects, a peculiar 
 character ; and on no point is he more sensitive, or rather, 
 to use an expressive term, more touchy, than in the just 
 distribution of ' pieces ' * among the several canoes forming 
 a party. It must be admitted, at the same time, that he 
 has very substantial reasons for being particular in this 
 matter, for he well knows that, supposing the canoes to be 
 in other respects equally matched, a very small inequality 
 of weight will make a considerable difference in their rela- 
 tive speed, and will occasion, moreover, a longer detention 
 at the portages. The usual mode is for the guide to sepa- 
 rate the pieces, and then to distribute or portion them out 
 by lots, holding in his hand little sticks of different lengths, 
 which the leading men draw. From the decision so made 
 there is no appeal, and the parties go away laughing or 
 grumbling at their different fortunes/ '-(- 
 
 Having settled these preliminaries to the satisfaction of 
 those concerned, they bade farewell to their host at Fort 
 William, and began the ascent of the Kamenistaquoia 
 River, encamping at night near the Kakabeka or Mountain 
 Fall. This fall is as high, if not a few feet higher, than 
 the Falls of Niagara, and surpasses them in picturesque 
 effect, although it is a much smaller body of water. 
 
 Passing the height of land which separates the waters 
 which flow into Lake Superior from those which enter Hud- 
 
 * All packages or bales, whether of provisions or goods, in these 
 countries, are made as nearly as possible 90 lbs. weight, and each pack- 
 age of this kind, whatever be its contents, is called a "piece." 
 
 f Back's Journal, p. 38. 
 
J^I] DANGERS OP CANOE TRAVELLING. 267 
 
 son's Bay, the three canoes proceeded rapidly on their 
 ever-changing and romantic route, sometimes careering 
 down the rapids, or hurrying over the portages — crossing 
 the small lakes, and not unfrequently sticking or making 
 but slow progress in numberless small and shallow rivers. 
 While descending one of the latter, called the Savannah, 
 which is rendered almost impassable by the great number 
 of fallen trees which bridge it across, William Malley, one 
 of the artillerymen, slipped off a floating tree, as he was 
 attempting to open a passage for the canoes, and narrowly 
 escaped being drowned ; but he bore the accident with so much 
 indifference and good-humour as to call forth the admiration 
 of Paul, the Iroquois guide, who at once predicted that he 
 would make a good voyageur. Accidents of this kind are 
 of frequent occurrence among these dangerous rapids — some- 
 times of a ludicrous, and sometimes of a more serious nature. 
 On one occasion, not many years ago, a north canoe was 
 pursuing its way quietly down one of the streams through 
 which the arctic exploring party was now passing. It was 
 approaching one of the many portages with which these 
 streams abound, and the bow and steersmen were standing 
 erect at stem and stern, casting quick glances ahead and 
 on either side as they neared the waterfall which obstructed 
 their progress. The approach to the landing-place was 
 somewhat difficult, owing to a point of rocks which projected 
 into the stream in the direction of the fall, and round which 
 point it was necessary to steer with some dexterity in order 
 to avoid being drawn into the strong current. The fearless 
 guides, however, had often passed the place in former 
 years in safety, and, accordingly, dashed at the point with 
 reckless indifference, their paddles flinging a circle of spray 
 over their heads as they changed them from side to side 
 with graceful but vigorous rapidity. The swift stream 
 carried them quickly round the point of danger, and they 
 
268 DANGERS OF CANOE TRAVELLING. 
 
 Mat 
 1833. 
 
 had almost reached the quiet eddy near the landing-place, 
 when the stem of the canoe was caught by the stream, 
 which in an instant whirled them out from the shore, and 
 carried them downwards with fearful rapidity. Another 
 moment, and the gushing waters dragged them, despite 
 their most frantic efforts, to the verge of the waterfall, 
 which thundered and foamed among frightful chasms and 
 rocks many feet below. The stem of the canoe overhung 
 the abyss, and now the voyageurs plied their paddles with 
 the desperation of men who felt that their lives depended 
 on the exertions of that terrible minute. For a second or 
 two the canoe remained stationary, and seemed to tremble 
 on the brink of destruction, and then, inch by inch, it began 
 slowly to ascend the stream. The danger was past ! A 
 few more nervous strokes, and the trembling bark shot like 
 an arrow out of the current, and floated in safety on the 
 still water under the point. The whole thing, from begin- 
 ning to end, was the work of a few seconds ; yet who can 
 describe or comprehend the tumultuous gush of feelings 
 created, during these short seconds, in the bosoms of the 
 careless voyageurs! The sudden, electric change from 
 tranquil safety to the verge of almost certain destruction — 
 and then — deliverance I It was one of those thrilling inci- 
 dents which frequently occur to those who tread the wilder- 
 nesses of this world, and was little recked of, by those to 
 whom it occurred, beyond the moment of danger; yet it 
 was one of those solemn seasons, more or less numerous 
 in the history of all men, when the Almighty speaks to 
 his careless, reckless creatures, in a way that cannot be 
 mistaken, however much it may be slighted, awakening 
 them, with a rough grasp, to behold the slender cord which 
 suspends them over the abyss of eternity. 
 
 There are lights as well as shadows in every picture. 
 The rippling streams and the waving trees have their spots 
 
VOYAGEURS. 
 For a second or two the canoe remained stationary, and seemed to tremble 
 on the brink of destruction, and then inch by inch, it began slowly to ascend 
 the stream. The danger was past !— Page 268. 
 
Mat 
 1833, 
 
 ANECDOTES OF CANOE TRAVELLING. 269 
 
 of shadow and their checkered gleams of light; and, as it is 
 in the physical aspect of nature, so it is in the every-day 
 history of men, more especially of those men who travel in 
 the wilds of North America, where grave succeeds to gay, 
 and rain to sunshine, with a violence and frequency that 
 renders a life in the woods at once captivating and instruc- 
 tive. The preceding anecdote illustrates one of the dangers 
 to which the traveller is sometimes exposed ; the following 
 extract from the journal of one who resided in these soli- 
 tudes, will exhibit one of the many ludicrous incidents that 
 tend to enliven the voyage and furnish food for agreeable 
 reminiscence in after years : — 
 
 " One cold frosty morning," says he, " (for the weather 
 had now become cold from the elevation of the country 
 through which we passed), while the canoe was going quietly 
 over a small, reedy lake or ford, I was awakened out of a 
 comfortable nap and told that the canoe was aground, and 
 that I must get out and walk a little way to lighten her. 
 Hastily pulling up my trousers (for I always travelled 
 barefoot), I sprang over the side into the water, and the 
 canoe left me. Now, all this happened so quickly that I was 
 scarcely awake; but the bitterly cold water, which nearly 
 reached my knees, cleared up my faculties most effectually, 
 and I then found that I was fifty yards from the shore, 
 with an unknown depth of water around me, the canoe 
 out of sight ahead of me, and my companion (who had 
 been turned out while half asleep also), standing with 
 a rueful expression of countenance beside me. After 
 feeling our way cautiously — for the bottom was soft and 
 muddy — we reached the shore ; and then, thinking that all 
 was right, proceeded to walk round to join the canoe. 
 Alas ! we found the bushes so thick that they were nearly 
 impenetrable; and, worse than all, that they, as well as 
 the ground, were covered with thorns, which scratched and 
 
270 LAKE WINIPEG. [Jgg 
 
 lacerated our feet most fearfully at every step. There was 
 nothing for it, however, but to persevere ; and, after a pain- 
 ful walk of a quarter of a mile, we overtook the canoe, vow- 
 ing never to leap before we looked upon any other occasion 
 whatsoever." 
 
 On the 6th of June the canoes arrived at Fort Alexander 
 — situated at the southern extremity of Lake Winipeg. 
 Here Captain Back found it necessary to remain a few days, 
 to await the arrival of Governor Simpson, who was expected 
 daily. During this period he and Mr. King employed 
 themselves in making a set of observations for the dip of the 
 needle, while the men busied themselves in unpacking and 
 drying the provision and packages, which had got slightly 
 damp during the voyage. Any spare time they had, one 
 would almost suppose, had been devoted to the destruction 
 of mosquitoes ; which tormentors Captain Back speaks of 
 as being awfully numerous. This voracious little insect is 
 fully two-eighths of an inch long, exclusive of the proboscis, 
 or trunk, with which its head is armed; and it would be 
 highly amusing, were it not tremendously irritating, to 
 watch the vigorous way in which it goes to work. Alight- 
 ing, it may be, on the hand, it applies its trunk instantly to 
 the skin, and with surprising rapidity finds out the tender 
 points which occur where the lines of the skin intersect 
 each other. For an instant the villain's head remains 
 ominously still, as if collecting all its energies for the 
 plunge, and then down goes the probe, full quarter of an 
 inch, up to the very butt. Having performed this feat, it 
 retracts the weapon a little, and begins to suck, which it 
 continues doing till quite surfeited. On close inspection the 
 proboscis is found to be enclosed in a sheath, which is split 
 all the way up on one side, and does not penetrate into the 
 wound, but doubles conveniently away to one side when the 
 probing is going on. So numerous and tormenting are 
 
JgSJjf] MOSQUITOES. 271 
 
 these insects, that they drive the deer into ponds of water 
 for shelter, where the agonized animals remain for hours, 
 with their noses alone out of the water; and it is said that 
 bisons are not unfrequently suffocated by the swellings in 
 their nostrils and mouths caused by the unremitting assaults 
 of mosquitoes. Poor Back speaks feelingly on the subject. 
 The men had been making a portage. 
 
 i ' The laborious duty," says he, "which had been thus 
 satisfactorily performed, was rendered doubly severe by the 
 combined attacks of myriads of sand-flies and mosquitoes, 
 which made our faces stream with blood. There is cer- 
 tainly no form of wretchedness, among those to which the 
 checkered life of a voyageur is exposed, at once so great and 
 so humiliating, as the torture inflicted by these puny blood- 
 suckers. To avoid them is impossible; and as for defend- 
 ing himself, though for a time he may go on crushing thou- 
 sands, he cannot long maintain the unequal conflict; so 
 that at last, subdued by pain and fatigue, he throws him- 
 self in despair with his face to the earth, and, half suffocated 
 in his blanket, groans away a few hours of sleepless rest."* 
 
 On the 10th of June the governor arrived, and communi- 
 cated the measures which had been taken for the furtherance 
 of the object of the expedition. Letters were given to 
 Captain Back, addressed to various experienced gentlemen 
 who resided near to the remote scene of intended operations, 
 urging them to lend all the assistance in their power to 
 the exploring party, and, if required, to accompany it. 
 Provisions were laid up at several stations on the route for 
 their use, and all that could possibly be accomplished was 
 done by the agents of the company, with a zeal and alacrity 
 which called forth Captain Back's warmest expressions of 
 gratitude. 
 
 * Captain Back's Journal, p. 117. 
 
272 ENGAGING MEN FOK THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 June 
 1833. 
 
 As the most of the men for the expedition were yet to be 
 engaged, it was necessary that they should proceed to Nor- 
 way House — a depot of the company near the opposite ex- 
 tremity of Lake "Winipeg — where the brigades of boats 
 from the distant regions of the interior converge on their 
 way to the sea; and, as they have all to repass this estab- 
 lishment on their return, there is a constant succession of 
 arrivals and departures. From these brigades Captain 
 Back hoped to engage men for his arduous undertaking ; 
 and accordingly left Fort Alexander on the 1 1th of June, 
 and coasted Lake Winipeg towards Norway House, at which 
 place he arrived on the 17th, and met with a cordial recep- 
 tion from the gentlemen who were staying there at the time. 
 
 Engaging men, however, was not so easy a matter as had 
 been anticipated. " The bulk of the people from the more 
 remote stations had already passed the depot, and those who 
 remained were either reluctant to expose themselves to the 
 hazard of what was justly considered an enterprize of dan- 
 ger, or, influenced by the strong desire of gain, demanded 
 the same privileges and emoluments which had been granted 
 to the men employed on the two government expeditions 
 under Sir John Franklin." Difficulties of another kind 
 also arose. Two Canadians who had engaged to go, on 
 returning to their tents were met by their wives, who re- 
 sorted to different, though, as it turned out, equally efficacious 
 methods of diverting their husbands from their purpose. 
 The one, a good strapping dame, cuffed her husband's ears 
 with such dexterity and good will that he was fain to cry 
 pecavi, and seek shelter in a friendly tent; the other, an in- 
 teresting girl of seventeen, burst into tears, and with piteous 
 sobs clung to the husband of her love as if she would hold 
 him prisoner in her arms! At length, however, the requi- 
 site number of able and experienced hands were engaged 
 (eighteen in all), part of whom were sent off in advance with 
 
June 
 1833, 
 
 J] LEAVE NORWAY HOUSE. 273 
 
 Dr. King, while Captain Back, retaining sufficient to man 
 his canoe, remained a few days longer; and then, on the 
 28th June 1833, started for Cumberland House, where two 
 boats and a large supply of stores and provisions awaited 
 him. 
 
 " This," says he, " was a happy day for me ; and as the 
 canoe pushed from the bank, my heart swelled with hope 
 and joy. Now, for the first time, I saw myself in a con- 
 dition to verify the kind anticipations of my friends. The 
 preliminary difficulties had been overcome. I was fairly 
 on my way to the accomplishment of the benevolent errand 
 on which I had been commissioned ; and the contemplation 
 of an object so worthy of all exertion, in which I thought 
 myself at length free to indulge, raised my spirits to a more 
 than ordinary pitch of excitement." 
 
 " We paddled along with little respite, until 5 p.m., 
 when a small speck was seen under the steep sandy cliffs 
 round Mossy Point, on the northern boundary of Lake 
 Winipeg. It was coming towards us, and was at first 
 taken for an Indian canoe ; but as we approached, I had 
 the satisfaction to find that it was the company's light 
 canoe from Athabasca, with Messrs. Smith and Charles, two 
 gentlemen whom I had long wished to see. From the 
 latter I now learnt that he had made every endeavour to 
 obtain, by inquiries from the Indians, a tolerably correct 
 notion of the situation of the River Thlew-ee-choh ; the 
 result of which was an opinion that it ran somewhere to 
 the north-east of Great Slave Lake, in a position not far 
 from that which had been speculatively assigned to it by 
 my friend Dr. Richardson and myself. Mr. Charles had 
 further been informed by an Indian chief, called the 
 ' Grand Jeune Homme,' whose hunting grounds were in 
 the neighbourhood of Great Slave Lake, that the Thlew- 
 ee-choh was so full of rapids, as to make it doubtful il 
 
274 DISCOMFORTS OF VOYAGING [mi. 
 
 boats, or indeed large canoes, could descend it ; but that by 
 pursuing a different course to a large river, called Teh-Ion, 
 such difficulties would be avoided ; whilst the distance be- 
 tween the mouths of the two rivers was so trifling, that the 
 smoke of the fire made at one was distinctly visible at the 
 other. * * * The waters were described as abound- 
 ing in fish, and the country in animals ; and, what was not 
 less gratifying, the chief and some others were willing and 
 desirous to accompany me."* 
 
 The voyage thus auspiciously commenced was not des- 
 tined to continue long, however, without evolving some of 
 those ills to which the flesh is heir ; and the joyous exulta- 
 tion with which Captain Back and his party set out, was 
 changed into chagrin on the second day, when a breeze, 
 sprang up, and, freshening into a gale with that peculiar 
 pertinacity with which breezes do freshen when particularly 
 wanted not to blow, obliged them to run the canoe into 
 shoal water in order to prevent their being swamped in 
 deep : and then getting out, they waded to the shore with 
 the baggage on their shoulders. Now, this is one of the 
 severest species of annoyance to which arctic travellers are 
 subjected. To bear the discomforts of wet feet and pained 
 muscles while tracking the boats or canoes up muddy 
 streams, which appear to have no end, or across rivulets 
 which have no bottom (or at least not till the cooling ele- 
 ment embraces the waist or armpits), is nothing. To 
 scramble through bushes that interlace with almost impene- 
 trable firmness, and when forced through, give way with a 
 crash that pitches the traveller forward on his head, and 
 recoil with a sharp switch on his face as he staggers to his 
 feet again, is less than nothing, so long as under these, or 
 any other imaginable species of disagreeable circumstances, 
 
 • Back's Journal, pp. 57-59. 
 
lg 3 N 3 B ] IN THE BACKWOODS. 275 
 
 he can only advance; but, to be stopped for days on a rocky 
 point running out into a lake, or on the shores of a swampy 
 bay, with the storm yelling in his teeth and upsetting his 
 tent, with the rain putting out his fire, and obstinately search- 
 ing for, and finding holes in his oil-cloths, whereat to 
 enter and soak his blankets or flood his provisions — and this, 
 too, with the knowledge perhaps that an hour or two of fair 
 sailing would bring him to a river where he might pursue 
 his voyage in spite of wind and weather ; to be thus 
 situated, we say, is a species of annoyance which quite 
 overcomes his philosophy — and Back said so too upon the 
 present occasion, when, to relieve his aggravated spirits, he 
 put on his Esquimaux boots, shouldered his gun, and sallied 
 forth in search of game among the deep, soft swamps which 
 lay around. After expending his energy pretty effectually 
 in this way, he returned to his tent so thoroughly tired 
 as fully to enjoy repose, and feel a placid interest in the 
 objects that surrounded his tent. His own graphic lan- 
 guage describes the scene well. " I amused myself," says 
 he, " with observing the odd assemblage of things around 
 me. At my feet was rolled a bundle in an oil- cloth, con- 
 taining some three blankets, called a bed ; near it a piece 
 of dried buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long black 
 hairs, which no art, alas ! can prevent from insinuating 
 themselves between the teeth as you laboriously masticate 
 the tough, hard flesh ; then a tolerably clean napkin 
 spread, by way of table-cloth, on a red piece of canvass, and 
 supporting a tea-pot, some biscuit, and a salt-cellar ; near 
 this a tin plate, close by a square kind of box or safe of 
 the same material, rich with a pale greasy ham, the pro- 
 duce of the colony at Red River ; and last, the far renowned 
 pemmican, unquestionably the best food of the country for 
 expeditions such as ours. Behind me were two boxes 
 containing astronomical instruments, and a sextant lying on 
 
276 ASCEND THE SASKATCHEWAN. [J^ 
 
 the ground ; whilst the different corners of the tent were 
 occupied by washing apparatus, a gun, Indian shot pouch, 
 bags, basins, and an unhappy-looking japanned pot, whose 
 melancholy bumps and hollows seemed to reproach me for 
 many a bruise endured upon the rocks and portages betwixt 
 Montreal and Lake Winipeg. Nor was my crew less 
 motley than the furniture of my tent. It consisted of an 
 Englishman, a man from Stornoway, two Canadians, two 
 Metifs (or half-breeds), and three Iroquois Indians. Babel 
 could not have produced a worse confusion of unharmoni- 
 ous sounds than was the conversation they kept up."* 
 
 Entering the Saskatchewan River, they ascended its 
 stream, and on the 5th July arrived at Cumberland House, 
 where they were received by Mr. Isbister, the company's 
 agent, and Mr. King, who had arrived without accident. 
 Here the greater number of the party embarked in two new 
 bateaux, each being laden with a cargo of sixty-one pieces 
 of 90 lbs. each, making for both 10,980 lbs., exclusive of 
 men, bedding, clothes, masts, sails, oars, and other spars. 
 They sailed, under the command of Mr. King, on 6th July, 
 while Captain Back, still retaining his canoe, remained 
 behind to take some observations and write despatches for 
 England. Although this occupied him a few days, yet in 
 a very short time he overtook the boats in his light canoe, 
 and proceeded on his way, leaving them to advance more 
 slowly to their wintering ground. 
 
 On the 17th July the canoe reached Isle a la Crosse, 
 where arrangements were made for the boats receiving 
 additional supplies of pemmican, and a few dogs to be 
 afterwards used in hauling wood, &c. during the winter. 
 Dogs in this part of the world are by no means permitted 
 to lead the lazy life that they spend in other climes. They 
 
 * Back, pp. 61-G2. 
 
JjJgT] DOG-CARIOLE TRAVELLING. 277 
 
 are invaluable in the arctic regions, where horses are 
 utterly useless, owing to the depth of snow which covers 
 the earth for so large a portion of the year. The com- 
 paratively light weight of the dogs enables them to walk 
 without sinking much, and even when the snow is so soft 
 as to be incapable of supporting them, they are still able 
 to sprawl along more easily than any other species of 
 quadruped could do. Four are usually attached to a sledge, 
 which they haul with great vigour, being followed by a 
 driver on snow shoes, whose severe lash is brought to bear 
 so powerfully on the backs of the poor animals, should any 
 of them be observed to slacken their pace, that they are 
 continually regarding him with deprecatory glances as 
 they run along. Should the lash give a flourish, there is 
 generally a short yelp from the pack, and should it descend 
 amongst them with a vigorous crack, the vociferous yelling 
 that results is perfectly terrific. These drivers are some- 
 times very cruel, and when a pack of dogs have had a fight 
 and got their traces hopelessly ravelled (as is often the 
 case), they have been known to fall on their knees, in their 
 passion, seize one of the poor dogs by the nose with their 
 teeth, and almost bite it off. Dogs are also used for 
 dragging carioles, which vehicles are used by gentlemen 
 in the company's service, who are either too old or too 
 lazy to walk on snow shoes. The cariole is in form not 
 unlike a slipper bath, both in shape and size. It is lined 
 with buffalo robes,* in the midst of a bundle of which the 
 occupant reclines luxuriously, while the dogs drag him 
 slowly through the soft snow, and among the trees and 
 bushes of the forest, or scamper with him over the hard 
 beaten surface of a lake or river, while the machine is pre- 
 
 * Skins of the bison, dressed on one side till the skin becomes like 
 rough chamois leather, and the hair left on the other. When lined with 
 cloth they make excellent travelling wrappers. 
 
278 ISLE A LA CROSSE. [Jg£ 
 
 vented from capsizing by a voyageur who walks behind on 
 snow shoes, holding on to a line attached to the back part 
 of the cariole. This kind of travelling, luxurious though 
 it be however, is not without its discomforts and annoy- 
 ances. The weather during winter is so cold, that it is 
 often a matter of the greatest difficulty for the traveller to 
 keep his toes from freezing, despite the buffalo robes; and 
 sometimes, when the dogs start fresh in the morning with 
 a good breakfast, a bright, clear, frosty day, and a long 
 expanse of comparatively open country before them, where 
 the snow, from exposure, has become quite hard, away they 
 go with a loud yelp, upsetting the driver in the bolt, who 
 rises to heap undeserved and very improper epithets upon 
 the poor brutes, which, careering over the ground at the 
 rate of eleven miles an hour, swing the miserable cariole 
 over the snow, tear it through the bushes, bang it first on 
 one side, then on the other, against stumps and trees, 
 yelling all the while, partly with frantic glee at the 
 thought of having bolted, and partly with fearful anticipa- 
 tion of the tremendous welting that is yet to come; until 
 at last the cariole gets jammed hard and fast among the 
 trees of the forest, or plunges down the steep banks of a 
 river, head over heels, till they reach the foot — a horrible 
 and struggling compound of dogs, traveller, traces, parch- 
 ment, buffalo robes, blankets, and snow ! 
 
 Leaving Isle a la Crosse, the travellers pursued their 
 romantic and truly interesting journey. Keeping to the 
 left of Clear Lake, they coasted it, and entered Buffalo 
 Lake, in which they experienced one of the dangerous 
 gales for which that sheet of water is famous. On the 21st 
 of July they arrived at Portage La Loche, the high ridge 
 of land which divides the waters running into Hudson's 
 Bay from those flowing into the Arctic Ocean. Here they 
 had to carry their canoe and baggage over the ridge, a 
 
1S3&D BEAUTY OP THE SCENERY. 279 
 
 distance of fourteen miles— a piece of work which tried the 
 poor fellows to the utmost of their strength. Scarcity of 
 water during a part of the way, and myriads of bull- dogs 
 (a large ferocious fly), combined to aggravate their suffer- 
 ings. Mr. King, who arrived at this place with the loaded 
 boats nearly three weeks later, tells us that his men 
 suffered very severely from heat and thirst. The boats 
 were left at the end of the portage where they first arrived, 
 two others having been provided at the farther end. Eight 
 days were consumed in passing Portage La Loche, during 
 which period each man of the party carried twelve pieces 
 in six journeys, and thus travelled one hundred and fifty- 
 four miles, during eighty-four of which he had one hundred 
 and eighty pounds attached to his back. 
 
 The beauty of the scenery at this place was superior to 
 anything that had been seen hitherto. " Within a mile of 
 the termination of the portage," says Mr. King, "a most 
 extensive and magnificent scene burst upon our view, and 
 we discovered ourselves, through an opening in the trees, 
 to be on a hill upwards of a thousand feet high, and at 
 the brink of a tremendous precipice. We were certainly 
 prepared to expect an extensive prospect, but the beautiful 
 landscape before us was far superior to anything that could 
 be anticipated from the nature of the country we had 
 hitherto seen. At a depth of two hundred fathoms below 
 the summit on which we stood, the Clear Water River 
 was to be seen winding its serpentine course in beautiful 
 meanders for thirty miles, broken here and there, and in- 
 terrupted by intervening woods ; while 
 
 ' The tall pines dwindled as to slirubs, 
 
 In dizziness ot distance ! ' 
 
 The valley, at once refreshed and adorned by the smooth 
 pellucid stream, was embanked by two parallel chains of 
 
280 JOINED BY MR. M'LEOD. [JjJJ 
 
 hills extending towards the west, till it became lost in the 
 purple hue of distance. The inclining heights, here and 
 there covered with stately forests, and occasionally inter- 
 spersed with barren spots or promontories of the most 
 luxuriant verdure, were beautifully contrasted with the 
 incinerated tinge which overspread vast tracts of country 
 where once the dense forests had been consumed by fire. 
 We sat down awhile to contemplate the magnificent scene, 
 the picturesque and diversified appearance of which 
 awakened in our minds mingled sensations of wonder and 
 delight ; while the calmness of the view infused an equan- 
 imity into our souls which it would be difficult to describe. 
 We tore ourselves at length from this enchanting spot; 
 and having descended to the banks of Clear Water River, 
 we encamped."* 
 
 But to return to Captain Back. On the 23d July the 
 last loads were brought down to the water's edge, and the 
 weary men threw themselves down on the earth, where 
 they remained quite motionless for an hour, after which 
 they gummed the canoe, and again proceeded on their 
 journey. At the Pine Portage they met Mr. A. R. 
 M'Leod, one of the gentlemen who had been appointed 
 by the governor to accompany the expedition. This 
 gentleman no sooner heard of the appointment, than he 
 expressed his willingness to go, and during the following 
 year Captain Back had reason to rejoice in the acquisition 
 of a man who was eminently qualified for the service in all 
 respects. The party now proceeded with the additional 
 load of Mr. M'Leod, his wife, and three children; not, 
 however, without some grumbling from the guide, who did 
 not at all relish this addition to his ahead}*- well- laden 
 canoe. On the 29th July they reached Fort Chepewyan. 
 
 * King's Arctic Ocean, pp. 86, 88. 
 
j|JJ] SLAVE LAKE INDIANS. 281 
 
 Here some slight, though, vague, information was obtained 
 f/om the Indians, regarding the position of the river of 
 which they were in search. They also completed their 
 stock of provisions, leather for making moccasins, guns, 
 and inplements for building an establishment in which to 
 pass the winter. Another canoe was also obtained, which, 
 it was thought, might prove convenient in the event of 
 finding shoal rivers to the north; and further instructions 
 having been left for Mr. King on his arriving with the 
 bateaux, they left the fort late on the evening of the 1st 
 of August. 
 
 On reaching the Salt River, they met with a large body 
 of Slave Lake Indians, who notified their approach by 
 horrible and discordant sounds. As it was hoped some 
 information might be obtained from them, a council was 
 called by Mr. M'Leod, which was ceremoniously opened by 
 passing round the pipe according to Indian custom, from 
 which each councillor drew a few puffs in solemn silence, 
 and with imperturbable gravity ; after which there was a 
 very large amount of talk, resulting in a very small amount 
 of information. 
 
 " The tout ensemble of these l people/ as they, with 
 some vanity, style themselves," says Back, "was wild 
 and grotesque in the extreme. One canoe in particular 
 fixed my attention : it was small even for a canoe ; and 
 how eight men, women, and children managed to stow 
 away their legs in a space not large enough for more than 
 three Europeans, would have been a puzzling problem to 
 one unacquainted with the suppleness of an Indian's un- 
 bandaged limbs. There, however, they were, in a tem- 
 perature of 66°, packed heads and tails like Yarmouth 
 herrings — half naked — their hair in elf-locks, long and 
 matted — filthy beyond description — and all squalling to- 
 gether. To complete the picture, their dogs, scarce one 
 
282 INDIANS GROTESQUE COSTUMES. [^ 
 
 degree below tliem, formed a sort of body-guard on each 
 side of the river ; and as the canoe glided away with the 
 current, all the animals together, human and canine, set 
 up a shrill and horrible yell."* 
 
 On the 8th of August they reached Great Slave Lake, 
 and arrived at Fort Resolution. At this post they re- 
 mained some days to arrange about an interpreter, com- 
 plete their stock of necessaries, and repair the canoes ; and 
 then, launching forth again, they coasted along the northern 
 shores of Great Slave Lake. 
 
 At the eastern extremity of this lake, a river entered it 
 which, it was supposed, flowed from the country where the 
 Thlew-ee-choh took its rise; and towards this river Captain 
 Back directed his course with increasing hope, notwith- 
 standing the account given of it by the Indians, who assured 
 him that it was full of rapids and waterfalls. On the way 
 he experienced the usual alternations of storm and calm, rain 
 and sunshine, while his I'oute was enlivened by occasional 
 meeting with Indians. One of these fellows, to show his 
 respect for the white men, put on a surtout which he had 
 purchased at the fort; and, as the surtouts sent out for the 
 fur trade are made of snuff-coloured brown cloth, in the 
 cut of the last century — with a rolling collar about four 
 inches wide reaching half-way up the back of the head, 
 single breast, particularly long skirt, and peculiarly short 
 waist, the buttons behind being in close proximity to each 
 other, and looking as if they wished to creep up the back, 
 and make acquaintance with the collar — it may be sup- 
 posed the awkward son of the forest did not improve his 
 appearance by the adoption of such a garb. Being al- 
 lowed to remain unbuttoned, it disclosed the fact that he 
 was unprovided with inexpressibles, which produced an 
 irresistibly comical effect. 
 
 * Back, p. 79. 
 
^JJJ] KILLING MOOSE-DEEE. 283 
 
 One evening, as they were paddling among the tall reeds 
 that grew in a bay of the lake, winding out and in among 
 them, and obtaining through their occasional openings a 
 partial view of the scene beyond, the sharp-eyed Indians 
 descried the ponderous antlers of a moose deer ; and La 
 Prise, a Chepewyan, being expert at approaching these 
 quick-eared animals, went in pursuit. Meanwhile they 
 dropped silently down a small stream until a place was 
 found dry enough for encamping. The night was clear 
 and bright; and the men were earnestly watching the 
 boiling of a kettle of meat, when they were startled by a 
 long shrill whoop, which Louison, the interpreter, im- 
 mediately answered, announcing at the same time that it 
 was the small canoe, and that La Prise had killed his game. 
 The plash of paddles was soon heard in the still night air, 
 and in a few minutes the canoe, with its inmates, glided 
 against the long grass on the bank of the encampment, 
 under the broad shade of which nothing was visible but 
 the dark heads of the Indians, as they appeared and van- 
 ished with the motion of their canoe. On being interro- 
 gated, the Indian, according to a curious custom among 
 them, said that he had been unsuccessful ; but in a few 
 minutes he produced the nose and tongue of a fine moose, 
 exclaiming at the same time, " There, I shot it through the 
 heart through an opening in the bushes not wider than 
 my hand, and the rest lies at the bottom of the canoe for 
 your disposal." 
 
 On another day they shot a bear, which, with a few fish 
 caught in their nets during the night, served to keep them 
 in a supply of fresh provisions. 
 
 In chasing the moose during winter in some parts of 
 these countries, where the ground is broken and rugged, 
 the hunters are not ^infrequently exposed to the danger of 
 falling over the precipices which the deceptive glare of 
 
284 ANECDOTE OF A DEER-HUNT. 
 
 Aue. 
 1833. 
 
 the snow conceals from view, until, too late, lie finds the 
 treacherous snow giving way beneath his feet. On one 
 occasion, a young man, in the service of the company, 
 received intelligence from an Indian that he had seen fresh 
 tracks of a moose, and being an eager sportsman, he sallied 
 forth, accompanied by the Indian, in chase of it. A long 
 fatiguing walk on the Chepewyan snow shoes, which are 
 six feet long, brought them within sight of the deer. The 
 young man fired, wounded the animal, and then dashed 
 forward in pursuit. For a long way the deer kept well 
 ahead of them. At length they began to overtake it; but 
 when they were about to fire again, it stumbled and dis- 
 appeared, sending up a cloud of snow in its fall. Suppos- 
 ing that it had sunk exhausted into one of the many hol- 
 lows which were formed by the undulations of the ground, 
 the young man rushed headlong towards it, followed at a 
 slower pace by the Indian. Suddenly he stopped and cast 
 a wild glance around him as he observed that he stood on 
 the very brink of a precipice, at the foot of which the 
 mangled carcass of the deer lay. Thick masses of snow 
 had drifted over its edge until a solid wreath was formed, 
 projecting several feet beyond it. On this wreath the 
 young man stood with the points of his long snow shoes 
 overhanging the yawning abyss; to turn round was im- 
 possible, as the exertion requisite to wield such huge snow 
 shoes would, in all probability, have broken off the mass. 
 To step gently backwards was equally impossible, in con- 
 sequence of the heels of the shoes being sunk into the snow. 
 In this awful position he stood until the Indian came up, 
 and taking off his long shash, threw the end of it towards 
 him; catching hold of this, he collected all his energies, 
 and giving a desperate bound threw himself backwards at 
 full length. The Indian pulled with all his force on the 
 belt, and succeeded in drawing him out of danger, just as 
 
ANECDOTE OP A DEER-HUNT. 
 
 Suddenly he stopped and cast a wild glance around him, as he observed that 
 he stood on the very hrinkof a precipice, at the foot of which the imngled car- 
 cass of the deer lay. — Page 284. 
 
n 
 
 t 
 
Aug. 
 1833 
 
 BACK, THWARTED BY INDIANS. 285 
 
 the mass, on which he had stood a moment before, gave 
 way, and thundered down the cliff, where it was dashed 
 into clouds against the projecting crags long before it 
 reached the foot. 
 
 Continuing their route along the hard and rocky line of 
 the northern shore, the canoes passed a picturesque torrent, 
 which from a thread of shining silver in the distance, came 
 gambolling down the steep declivities, and then mingled 
 gently with the broad waters of the lake. Near it was 
 the Rocky Point River, just beyond which they encamped 
 at the close of a beautiful day, in which the thermometer 
 had stood at 52°. 
 
 They now approached the eastern extremity of Great 
 Slave Lake, where was the river whose sources, it was said, 
 rose near the springs of the Thlew-ee-choh. Captain Back 
 had great difficulty here in getting a satisfactory answer 
 from the Indians who accompanied him, as to the where- 
 abouts of this river. Many of them said that it existed, 
 but only one admitted that he had ever seen it; and as 
 that was long ago, when he was a little boy, while hunt- 
 ing with his father in the barren grounds, he expressed 
 great doubts as to his being able to find it. We cannot 
 but admire the steady persevering energy of Captain Back, 
 in facing and overcoming the innumerable and often vexa- 
 tious difficulties which were thrown in his way by these 
 lazy natives. They thwarted him continually; told lies 
 with imperturbable gravity, and sometimes, under pretence 
 of paying a visit to their relations, deserted him altogether. 
 
 On the 18th of August they at last reached the object of 
 their search — the river which was to conduct them to a 
 chain of lakes leading to the Thlew-ee-choh. It broke 
 upon them unexpectedly, when rounding some small rocks 
 which shut out from their view a bay, at the bottom of 
 which was seen a splendid fall, upwards of sixty feet high, 
 
286 ASCENT OF HOAR FROST RIVER. [^JJJ 
 
 rushing in two white and misty volumes into the dark gulf 
 below. Here they landed, and set about thoroughly repair- 
 ing the small canoe which was to proceed up the rapids, 
 while the other, and the greater part of the baggage, was 
 left in charge of La Prise, who undertook to deliver them 
 to Mr. M'Leod; that gentleman having been deputed to 
 choose a convenient situation, at the eastern extremity of 
 Great Slave Lake, whereon to build a winter residence, 
 while Captain Back should proceed in his light canoe as far 
 down the Thlew-ee-choh as was practicable, returning again 
 to the establishment before the winter fairly set in. 
 
 The observations here gave the latitude 62° 50' 15" N. ; 
 longitude 109° 47' 54" W. ; and variation 36° 52' E. 
 
 The true work of the explorers had now fairly begun. 
 Before them the gushing stream, which was called the 
 Hoar Frost River, roared down the scattered rocks like the 
 thundering cannonade that streams through the breach of a 
 stormed fortress, while the forlorn hope of voyageurs below 
 prepared to storm the stream, and take possession of the 
 unknown barren grounds that lay beyond. 
 
 " A new scene," says Back, " now opened upon us. 
 Instead of the gentle paddling across the level lake, by 
 which we had been enabled to penetrate thus far, we had 
 to toil up the steep and rocky bed of an unknown stream, 
 on our way to the high lands, from which the waters take 
 an opposite course. The labours which had hitherto been 
 so cheerfully undergone, were little more than those to 
 which voyageurs are accustomed ; but in what was to come, 
 it was evident that extraordinary efforts and patient per- 
 severance would be required to overcome the difficulties 
 of our route." Up this stream, then, they went, carrying 
 canoe and provisions over rocks, mountain, and plains, in 
 order to avoid a succession of rapids which intercepted them 
 all the way up the river. Their old friends the sand-flies, 
 
Aug. 
 1333, 
 
 J CANOEING IN THE RAPIDS. 28" 
 
 too, assailed them here with extreme vehemence, and, to 
 add to their miseries, Maufelly, the interpreter, fell sick. 
 Having only a box of common pills, and a bottle of brandy, 
 Captain Back at first refused the Indian's request to doctor 
 him, but, being much pressed, he at last indulged him, first 
 with the contents of the box, which made him worse, and 
 then with the contents of the bottle, which made him better. 
 
 The scenery here was exceedingly wild. High beetling 
 cliffs overhung dark gorges, through which the water 
 rushed impetuously, while here and there lay quiet sheets 
 of clear water, reflecting in their bosoms the bold outlines 
 that towered overhead, and the variously- coloured mosses 
 that covered the rocks and enriched the scene. 
 
 Among these wild rapids, De Charloit, the bowman, 
 exhibited admirable adroitness and dexterity. In the midst 
 of dangers the most imminent from rapids or falls, he was 
 cool, fearless, and collected; and often when the pole or 
 paddle was no longer available, he would spring into the 
 curling water, and, with a foot firmly planted, maintain his 
 position, where others would have been swept away in an 
 instant. But in spite of all his care and exertion, the canoe 
 was sorely buffeted, and the bark hung in shreds along its 
 sides, ripped and broken in every quarter. 
 
 One day, on entering upon a magnificent lake, a rein- 
 deer appeared, running at full speed, chased by a large white 
 wolf, which, though it seemed to have little chance in 
 swiftness, was nevertheless resolute in pursuit. The deer 
 gradually made for a pass below the rapid, at the other side 
 of which another wolf was perceived, crouching down, with 
 his eyes fixed on the chase, evidently prepared to spring on 
 the poor animal should it take the water. Fortunately, 
 however, it flew past, near to where Captain Back was 
 standing, who, shouting loudly as the wolf approached, 
 succeeded in scaling the rascally animal away. 
 
288 SOURCE OF THE THLEW-EE-CHOH DISCOVERED. [j g gj 
 
 On the 29th of August, while the men were out scouring 
 the country in search of the Thlew-ee-choh, which, it was 
 supposed, must be in the neighbourhood of the spot where 
 their tent was pitched, Captain Back sallied forth with his 
 gun. " Becoming anxious," says he, " about the men, I 
 took my gun, and following a N.N.W. direction, went out 
 to look for them. Having passed a small sheet of water, 
 * * * I ascended a hill, from the top of which I discerned, 
 to my great delight, a rapid, evidently connected with the 
 stream which flowed through the narrow channel from the 
 lake. With a quickened step I proceeded to trace its 
 course, and, in doing so, was farther gratified at being 
 obliged to wade through the sedgy waters of springs. 
 Crossing two rivulets whose lively ripples ran due north 
 into the rapid, the thought occurred to me that these feeders 
 might be tributaries of the Thlew-ee-choh ; and, yielding to 
 that pleasing emotion which discoverers, in the first bound 
 of their transport, may be pardoned for indulging, I threw 
 myself down on the bank, and drank a hearty draught of 
 the limpid water." 
 
 That this was actually the source of the river of which 
 they were in search, was speedily confirmed by the men, 
 who returned soon afterwards saying that they had dis- 
 covered it on the second day, and described it as being 
 large enough for boats. Proceeding across some small 
 lakes and portages, they travelled towards the river until 
 their canoe, which had been showing unmistakeable symp- 
 toms of a broken constitution, became at last so rickety as 
 to render it advisable to return. From the appearance of 
 the country, and especially of some blue hills in the dis- 
 tance, it was conjectured that the river was full of rapids, 
 and that their work of next summer would not be child's play. 
 
 The observations gave the latitude 64° 40' 51" N.j 
 longitude 108° 08' 10" W. ; variation 44° 24' E. 
 
jg3g] RETURN TO WINTER QUARTERS. 289 
 
 Their route back to winter quarters was even more 
 harassing than their advance. The rickety canoe having 
 nearly gone to pieces in several rapids, was finally aban- 
 doned, and her cargo strapped to the backs of the men, 
 who set off to walk back over land. The account of this 
 journey, as given by the indefatigable leader, is particularly 
 interesting, but our limits forbid our entering upon it in 
 detail. Over hill and dale, through swamp, jungle, and 
 morass, they pursued their toilsome march ; now crashing 
 with their heavy loads down the tangled and bushy banks 
 of a small creek, and then slowly clambering up the craggy 
 sides of the opposite bank ; sometimes plodding through 
 a quaking swamp, at other times driving through a wood 
 of stunted trees ; and all the while assailed by a host of 
 sand-flies and mosquitoes, in a way that mortal combatants 
 never did and never will assail their foes ! Talk of hero- 
 ism ! no band of Spartans ever left their black soup to rush 
 tumultuously on certain death — no forlorn hope ever dashed 
 up the crashing ruins of a blazing breach, with half the 
 determination, or half the obstinacy, with which these same 
 sand-flies and mosquitoes rushed upon destruction ! Thou- 
 sands flew, with ready darts, straight in the eyes, noses, 
 and ears, of the frantic voyageurs — thousands fell under the 
 withering force of one tremendous slap of their ever-moving 
 hands— down they go, millions at a sweep, while millions 
 more supply their places, coolly, calmly, but decidedly, 
 with as much indifference to death as if it were a mere joke 
 — nry, they even came on with a merry hum and buzz, as 
 if they revelled in the wholesale slaughter of themselves, 
 while their luckless foes rolled their heads in the very dust 
 in agony. At last, however, their sorrows, for a time, 
 came to an end. " We had now," says Back, " reached 
 the lake where, in my letter of the 1 9th of August, I had 
 directed Mr. M'Leod to build an establishment. Proceed- 
 
290 A HOME IN THE WOODS. [ S £™ 
 
 ing onward, over the even and mossy surface of the sand- 
 banks, we were one day gladdened by the sound of the 
 woodman's stroke; and, guided by the branchless trunks 
 that lay stretched along the earth, we soon came to a bay, 
 where, in agreeable relief against the dark green foliage, 
 stood the newly-erected framework of a house. Mr. M'Leod 
 was walking under the shade of the trees with La Prise, 
 and did not hear us till we were within a few yards of him. 
 We were ranged in single file, the men having, of their own 
 accord, fallen into that order; and, with swollen faces, 
 dressed and laden as we were, some carrying guns, others 
 tent poles, &c, we must have presented a strangely wild 
 appearance, not unlike a group of robbers on the stage."* 
 
 Captain Back and his hardy companions had now reached 
 their winter quarters. In the cold heart of the wilderness, 
 thousands and thousands of miles from the dwellings of 
 civilized men, between whom and them lay the almost 
 impassable barriers of broad foaming rivers and sea-like 
 lakes, whose waters were becoming crusted with the fine 
 intersecting needles of ice, which, ere long, would solidify 
 them nearly to the bottom — high, broken, rugged mountains, 
 dreary morasses, boundless prairies, and dense, dark, inter- 
 minable forests. In the cold heart of the northern wilder- 
 ness they built their little huts, and took up their abode 
 for nine dreary months — surrounded by a few scattered, 
 starving families of Indians, and solitude ; depending for 
 food upon the success of their Indian hunters and the pro- 
 duce of their nets, both of which often fail, and neither of 
 which were likely to do more than furnish a meagre sub- 
 sistence for the party. There is something truly grand in 
 the courage and energy of men who thus, with the humane 
 motive of delivering their fellow-men from impending 
 
 * Back, p. 181- 
 
Sept. 
 1333. 
 
 ARRIVAL OF MR. KING. 291 
 
 destruction, or for the purpose of adding to the geographical 
 knowledge of the human race, leave friends, and home, and 
 country, to face the rigours and overcome the difficulties 
 of a hyperborean winter — rigours and difficulties compre- 
 hended in their full extent and terrible reality only by 
 those who have endured them. And our admiration 
 deepens into respect, when we see the heroic leader of the 
 band, whose stern courage and unflinching resolution 
 endured and conquered all, recording his gratitude and 
 trust in God in the following simple, humble language : — 
 " The following day," says he, " being Sunday, divine 
 service was read, and our imperfect thanks were humbly 
 offered to Almighty God for the mercies which had already 
 been vouchsafed to us ; and though in this imperious cli- 
 mate, with everything to do, time was certainly precious, 
 yet, feeling that the first opening of the sacred volume in 
 this distant wilderness ought not to be profaned by any 
 mixture of common labour, I made it a day of real quiet 
 and repose." 
 
 Mr. King, who, as has been previously mentioned, was 
 left behind with the two boats, rejoined the party on the 
 16th September, having incurred not a little difficulty 
 in consequence of his want of experience in these climes, 
 and had been occasionally imposed upon by the voyageurs. 
 The whole party now set briskly to work to complete their 
 buildings. Trees were soon felled, branched, squared, and 
 put together, with a celerity peculiar to Canadians and 
 half-breeds, who, being all but born with the axe in their 
 hands, become very expert in the use of it. Though the 
 trees were small, a sufficient number for their purpose were 
 speedily procured ; slabs and planks were sawn, stones 
 chipped, mud and grass collected for mortar ; and, in a 
 few days, as if by magic, a dwelling-house was raised, 
 sufficiently weather-tight to shelter the whole party during 
 
292 FORT RELIANCE THE OBSERVATORY. C 1 833! 
 
 a winter that was to last fully eight months. All estab- 
 lishments in the Indian country, however lowly and inno- 
 cent in appearance, being dignified with the title of Fort, 
 Captain Back thought proper to call this one Fort Reliance. 
 Its exact position was in latitude 62° 46' 29" N., longitude 
 109° 0' 38-9" W. It consisted of a house fifty feet long 
 by thirty broad, having four separate rooms, with a spa- 
 cious hall in the centre for the reception and accommoda- 
 tion of Indians. Each of the rooms had a fireplace and 
 a rude chimney. A miserable apology for a room, with 
 many a yawning crevice inviting the entrance of the cold 
 elements, was, out of courtesy, called a kitchen; and another 
 house, standing at right angles to this one on the western 
 side, formed a dwelling for the men. An observatory was 
 also constructed at a short distance from the establishment, 
 wherein certain mysterious and complicated instruments 
 were fixed and erected ; iron in all forms being carefully 
 excluded, and a fence run round it to guard it more effec- 
 tually from the men, as they walked about with their guns, 
 ice chisels, and axes. Here Captain Back and Mr. King 
 used to sit in solemn conclave for many an hour during 
 the winter, closely observing the various and interesting 
 phenomena of earth and sky ; and awfully mysterious did 
 this building appear to the simple Indians and voyageurs. 
 They would approach as near as they dared, and with their 
 arms folded, brows knit, and heads down, would stand for 
 hours wondering at the dead silence of its occupants, broken 
 only at long intervals by such exclamations as "now" — 
 " stop" — insomuch that they at last, after very mature and 
 grave deliberation, came to the conclusion that they were 
 " raising the devil!" 
 
 The site of the establishment was a level bank of gravel 
 and sand, covered with rein-deer moss, shrubs, and trees, 
 looking more like a park than an American forest. It 
 
° C l T 83 T 3°Ji N '] PEOSPECT OF STARVATION. 293 
 
 formed the northern extremity of a bay, from twelve to 
 fifteen miles long, and from three to five miles broad, which 
 was named after Mr. M'Leod. The Ah-hel-dessy fell into 
 it from the westward, and another small river from the 
 east. Granitic mountains of gray and flesh-coloured felspar, 
 quartz, and in some places large plates of mica, surrounded 
 the bay, and rose from five to fifteen hundred feet in height. 
 These hills, however, instead of proving a shelter, acted as 
 conductors to the wind, which occasionally blew from E.S.E. 
 and W.S.W. with great violence. 
 
 Here they took up their abode, and the miseries through 
 which they were doomed to pass during that dreary winter 
 began even at this time. Fish, upon which they depended' 
 in a great measure, began to fail at the very commencement 
 of the season. From one place to another the nets were 
 shifted, with the hope of finding a larger supply ; but, so 
 far from succeeding in this, the men who were sent found 
 that there was scarce sufficient to maintain themselves from 
 day to day, and on more than one occasion returned to the 
 ibrt, being unable to support themselves. Deer also failed 
 them ; for, although there were plenty of these animals in 
 the country, they kept so far away from the fort, and con- 
 tinued so long among the barren grounds, where it was 
 exceedingly difficult to approach them, that very few were 
 obtained, and these at long intervals. The bags of pern- 
 mican which Mr. King had brought in his boats were 
 intended for the expedition of the following summer ; and 
 as it could not be carried on without that article of food, 
 nothing but the utmost extremity would induce Captain 
 Back to break upon it. During all this period, and for 
 months afterwards, the fort was besieged by starving 
 Indians, who flocked to it in the vain hope of obtaining 
 assistance from its almost equally unfortunate inmates. As 
 this, however, was a disposition which it would have been 
 
294 OLD WOMAN FORSAKEN BY HER RELATIVES, f 00 ^!!^* 
 
 ruinous to the expedition to encourage, Captain Back posi- 
 tively refused any assistance in the shape of food, except to 
 those of them who, from infirmity or sickness, were abso- 
 lutely incapable of going forth to hunt. One of this class 
 was picked up in the woods and brought to the fort. A 
 miserable old woman, " clad," says Back, " in deer- skin, 
 her eyes all but closed, her hair matted and filthy, her skin 
 shrivelled, and feebly supporting, with the aid of a stick 
 held by both hands, a trunk which was literally horizontal, 
 she presented, if such an expression may be pardoned, the 
 shocking and unnatural appearance of a human brute. It 
 was a humiliating spectacle, and one which I would not 
 willingly see again. Poor wretch ! Her tale was soon 
 told : old and decrepit, she had come to be considered as a 
 burden even by her own sex. Past services and toils were 
 forgotten, and, in their figurative style, they coldly told her, 
 that ' though she appeared to live, she was already dead,' and 
 must be abandoned to her fate. ' There is a new fort,' said 
 they, l go there ; the whites are great medicine men, and 
 may have power to save you.' This was a month before ; 
 since which time she had crawled and hobbled along the 
 rocks, the scanty supply of berries which she found upon 
 them just enabling her to live." This pitiable object was 
 brought to the fort, fed and taken care of — being permitted 
 to live in the hall, where she crawled about on all fours at 
 will, moaning over the fire, or creeping into Mr. King's 
 room, whom she found to be the only one who could alle- 
 viate her sufferings. These, however, had been greater 
 than she could bear. Notwithstanding all their care, she 
 sank from day to day, until she appeared a living skeleton, 
 and was found dead at last in a tent, beside the ashes of a 
 small fire. ! there is something that thrills to the very 
 soul in this picture of misery and cruelty. The feeling of 
 affectionate pity with which one usually regards these poor 
 
° C 183 T 3^34 AN '] MISERIES FROM SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS. 295 
 
 Indians, is turned to bitter indignation as we read of the 
 unnatural, cold-hearted cruelty of those who would thus 
 iorsake their feeble, helpless mother in her old age ; — the 
 mother who had borne them in her arms over many and 
 many a weary mile of that waste howling wilderness — 
 whose breasts had once sustained them with the stream 
 of life, and, though all withered and shrunken now, still 
 covered the poor, trembling, timid old heart, which often- 
 times had beat more warmly and powerfully with love for 
 those whom she watched departing, as they left her to her 
 fate, than it beat for fear as she gazed upon the cold wintry 
 woods, and slowly realized her desolation. It is past now, 
 and she's at rest. How many more such scenes shall occur 
 to raise a wail of indignation, a burning tear of sympathy, 
 and prompt the earnest prayer that the blessed Gospel of 
 Jesus Christ may soon shine upon the dark places of the 
 earth ? God knows ! 
 
 Famine in its worst form now began to stare them in the 
 face. Day after day brought fresh intelligence from the 
 various fisheries of their ill success, while parties of starving 
 natives arrived from the hunting grounds, in the hope of 
 getting a few scraps of food at the fort. Captain Back, 
 with characteristic benevolence, imparted to them as much 
 as could be spared from his own little stock, endeavouring 
 to revive their drooping spirits and urge them on to action. 
 It was in vain, however. The scourge was too heavy, and 
 their exertions were completely paralyzed. No sooner had 
 one party been prevailed on to leave the fort, than another, 
 still more languid and distressed, feebly entered, and con- 
 firmed, by their half-famished looks and sunken eyes, their 
 heart-rending tale of suffering. They spoke little, but 
 * crowded in silence round the fire, as if eager to enjoy the 
 only comfort remaining to them. And, truly, fire was a 
 comfort of no ordinary kind, when it is remembered that 
 
296 INTENSE COLD. 
 
 Feb- 
 1834- 
 
 the temperature during that terrible winter fell to 70° below 
 zero of Fahrenheit I 
 
 It is difficult for those who have not experienced it, to 
 comprehend the intensity of this degree of cold. Captain 
 Back and his friend Mr. King made a few experiments 
 during their long dreary winter, which will serve to convey 
 some idea of it. A bottle of sulphuric ether was placed on 
 the snow when the temperature was 62° below zero. In 
 fifteen minutes the interior upper surface of the bottle was 
 coated with ice, while the ether became viscous and opaque. 
 A small bottle of pyroligneous acid froze in less than thirty 
 minutes at a temperature of 57° minus; and a surface of four 
 inches of mercury exposed in a saucer became solid in two 
 hours, at the same temperature. On the 4th of February 
 so intensely cold was it, that a higher temperature than 
 12° above zero could not be obtained in the house, even 
 although there were eight large logs of wood blazing in the 
 chimney of a small room. As might be imagined, cold, of 
 such a peculiarly sharp nature, used to prove inconvenient in 
 more ways than one, and Captain Back tells us that his ink 
 froze, and that in making an attempt to finish a water-colour 
 sketch he signally failed — the material becoming frozen 
 even while he sat so close to a huge fire as considerably to 
 endanger the legs of his trousers ! All metal implements, 
 on being brought into the house in such weather, become 
 instantly covered with a species of hoar frost; and often- 
 times have the eyes of a novice on returning from a day's 
 shooting been opened to their utmost width in undisguised 
 astonishment at beholding his gun, which a few minutes 
 before he had placed on his table glittering in all its pristine 
 freshness, gradually become dim and then pure white with 
 a coat of hoar-frost! At an establishment near the shores 
 of Hudson's Bay, a very curious phenomenon occurred which 
 further illustrates the intensity of the cold in these regions. 
 
"lS34 L ] CAPT. BACK'S KINDNESS NEWS FROM ENGLAND. 297 
 
 A ball was given to the Indians about the place — being 
 New Year's day — and, during its progress, the heat of the 
 room, and violent exercise of the guests, besides the steam 
 from a pan of water placed on the stove, so moistened the 
 atmosphere as to cause moisture to run in streams down the 
 walls and hang in drops from the ceiling. During the night 
 the fires were allowed to die out, and in the morning the 
 whole room was covered with white crystals of ice ! 
 
 During this period of suffering, that which tried Captain 
 Back's benevolent nature most severely, was the longing 
 looks of the poor little Indian children, as they stood watching 
 him and his men eating their small daily allowance of pem- 
 mican. tt Often," says he, " did I share my own plate with 
 the children, whose helpless state and piteous cries were 
 peculiarly distressing. Compassion for the full-grown may 
 or may not be felt; but that heart must be cased in steel 
 which is insensible to the cry of a child for food. I have 
 no reserve in declaring the pleasure which it gave me to 
 watch the emotions of these unfortunate little ones, as each 
 received its spoonful of pemmican from my hand." 
 
 On the 25th of April 1834, while the snow still lay deep 
 on the ground, and everything wore the same unchanging, 
 and seemingly unchangeable, aspect that it had worn ever 
 since October, the winter packet arrived, bringing intelli- 
 gence of the safe arrival of Sir J. Ross and his crew in 
 England. To those who were to have devoted the ensuing 
 summer to the search, this was a subject of unmixed plea- 
 sure, both as assuring them of the safety of their enterpris- 
 ing countrymen, and as setting them free to devote them- 
 selves entirely to the secondary object of the expedition; 
 and that night, Captain Back, resolving to devote himself 
 to the enjoyments of social intercourse, invited all the world 
 within his reach (i. e. Mr. King) to sup with him, and in- 
 dulged in a generous bowl of punch. The men were treated 
 
298 PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. [i83t* 
 
 to an additional allowance of food, wherewith to warm the 
 cockles of their half- starved hearts. 
 
 Part of the men were now sent to the only clump of pines 
 which afforded trees of a sufficient size to saw up into planks 
 for building a boat — this conveyance being deemed better 
 than a canoe for the summer journey. The famine still 
 continued to press heavily upon them. Many of the natives 
 died, while some of them tried to allay the cravings of 
 hunger by eating parts of their deer- skin shoes and coats. 
 At the fisheries little or nothing was caught, and at the fort 
 they were obliged reluctantly to break upon the supply of 
 pemmican. The solitude and desolation of the establish- 
 ment was extreme, and perhaps no better idea of it could 
 be conveyed than by the quotation of a paragraph from 
 Back's journal in which he speaks of the death of two tame 
 ravens. " For the last fifteen days," says he, " our habita- 
 tion had been rendered more cheerfal by the presence of two 
 ravens, which having, by my express direction, been left 
 unmolested, had become so tame as scarcely to move ten 
 paces when any one passed them ; they were the only living 
 things that held communion with us, and it was a pleasure 
 to see them gambol in their glossy plumage on the white 
 snow. A party of men had arrived overnight, and amongst 
 them an Iroquois, who, perceiving the birds together, and 
 being ignorant of my wishes, could not resist the temptation 
 of a double shot, and so killed them both. In any other 
 situation such an event would, perhaps, have seemed too 
 trifling to be noticed; but in our case the ravens were the 
 only link between us and the dreary solitude without, and 
 their loss therefore was painfully felt. * * * When 
 they were gone, I felt more lonely, and the moaning wind 
 seemed as if complaining of the barbarity." 
 
 Towards the end of winter one of the men, called William- 
 son, was lost. He had been an invalid during greater 
 
MA 1834. 0NE ] SPRING EXPEDITION SETS OUT. 299 
 
 part of the winter, and had been discharged from the service 
 in consequence ; but while travelling to the next establish- 
 ment, he separated from his companions, lost himself in the 
 woods, and was found long after dead upon the snow. 
 
 Winter, with its cold, dreary, deathlike stillness, at last 
 began to give way and melt beneath the warm touch of 
 spring. The lumps of snow and bits of ice, which had lain 
 so long around the fort as to have acquired all the famili- 
 arity of household objects, at last began to diminish in size 
 and change in appearance. The door, which it had been 
 customary to keep closed with jealous care, was allowed 
 occasionally to stand open, and soon a few pools of water 
 formed on the ice, and the unusual sound of tinkling rills 
 was heard as the great fields of snow began to melt and 
 send forth the first few tiny threads of water, which, ere 
 long, were to gush in volumes throughout the land, and 
 help to burst the icy barriers of lake and stream. On 
 the 13th May the first goose of the season was seen. On 
 the 18th Mr. M'Leod arrived; and on the 7th of June, 
 things being considered in a sufficiently advanced state to 
 permit of operations being commenced, Captain Back and 
 his party set out once more upon their travels. 
 
 The boat, which was thirty feet long, was placed upon 
 runners, and dragged over the yet unmelted ice of the lakes 
 and swamps, across many of which they had to pass ere 
 they could launch upon the Thlew-ee-choh. The men had 
 each a small sled, or runner, on which to drag a certain 
 amount of the baggage and provisions — averaging about 
 one hundred pounds — and away they went with great 
 merriment at the grotesque appearance they cut as they 
 stumbled and slipped over the jagged surface of the ice. 
 In a very short time this work began to tell upon the run- 
 ners of the sledges, which peeled up, and otherwise evinced 
 symptoms of veiy speedy dissolution. In this dilemma 
 
300 HAULING THE BOATS OVER THE ICE. [^ E 
 
 the captain bethought himself of two pitsaws which they 
 had with them. These were got out, cut into stripes, 
 nailed to the runners, and in a few hours away they went 
 again with increased speed, and very much diminished tear 
 and wear. 
 
 Mr. M'Leod, with a party of Indians, was sent on ahead 
 of the main body to hunt, and make caches of the meat, to 
 be picked up as the party behind came up to them. An 
 encamping place of this advance guard was fallen upon by 
 Captain Back while he was straying a little from his party. 
 As he stood looking at it, he observed a tin kettle half 
 buried in the snow, which on examination was found to 
 contain thirty-four balls, a file broken in three pieces, an 
 awl, a fire- steel, and a crooked knife. This, the most 
 valuable portion of an Indian's possessions, had been thrown 
 away, according to a custom prevailing among that people, 
 either as an expiatory sacrifice for some calamity, or as a 
 token of extreme affliction for the loss of a wife or child. 
 The captain usually kept ahead of his party, being desirous 
 of finding the caches, and laying the meat on an exposed 
 place in his track, so as to avoid waste of time in collecting 
 it. In this way they continued their route for many days, 
 over every sort of lake, pond, river, swamp, creek, or pool 
 that can or cannot be imagined ; sometimes comfortably, 
 and sometimes miserably. The want of fire was their chief 
 discomfort. " The thermometer," says Back, " stood at 
 33°, with snow, and a raw cold wind that pierced through 
 us in spite of cloaks and blankets. It was two o'clock in 
 the morning ; and as I had not yet dined, certain internal 
 gnawings began to intimate the propriety of supplying the 
 organs of digestion with some occupation which might keep 
 them from quarrelling among themselves. ! thought I, 
 fur a cheerful fire and a warm, comfortable meal ! Accord- 
 ingly, having managed to collect a beggarly account of 
 
JjJJ] STRANGE SUMMER WEATHER. 301 
 
 wet branches, we applied ourselves with laudable zeal to 
 ignite and blow them into a flame. The moss and shrubs 
 were saturated, and would not burn; but it was fondly 
 imagined that, by dint of perseverance, and relieving each 
 other quickly, the dwarf birch might be importuned into a 
 blaze. We puffed, and it smoked — again, and it lighted — 
 still more, and it went out : the puffing was renewed — it 
 looked cheerful, and wanted only a little more coaxing. 
 'The least thing in the" world/ said one, blowing gently, 
 though at the distance of a yard. ' Mind what you're 
 about/ cried another — ' there ! it will go out — it's all 
 over' — '0! get out of the way, let me come/ bawled a 
 third; and thrusting himself forward, applied himself to 
 the work with such vigour and force of lungs, that the few 
 embers yet living flew scattered about like the sparks of an 
 exploded cracker." That day, and on many others, the 
 captain dined on " some pemmican and a little cold water." 
 
 Towards the middle of June the weather became very 
 cold and boisterous, especially Midsummer's-day, which was 
 the coldest, blackest, and most wintry day they had. On 
 the 2 2d of June, being Sunday, divine service was read in 
 the tent, where, to the credit of the men, be it mentioned, 
 they all came clean and shaved, notwithstanding the dis- 
 comforts to which they were exposed. 
 
 On the 28th they arrived near the banks of the Thlew- 
 ee-choh, and on the afternoon of the same day were fairly 
 launched upon its head waters. These, however, were full 
 of ice, and it was not until several days afterwards that 
 Captain Back felt it safe to dismiss his extra hands, and 
 the Indians who had accompanied him thus far to carry 
 provisions. On the 3d of July, however, having assembled 
 them on the banks of the river, he relieved them of their 
 burdens, and arranged the party which was to accompany 
 him to the Polar Sea. And greatly did it surprise the 
 
302 EMBARK ON THE THLEW-EE-CHOH. [JjJJ 
 
 Indians to see a boat manned by Europeans, and stored 
 with the provision of the southern country, after having 
 been hauled, carried, and dragged over every imaginable 
 kind of obstacle for full two hundred miles, at last fairly 
 launched on the clear waters of the barren lands. Mr. 
 M'Leod was dismissed at this point, with instructions to 
 collect provisions against their return, and to meet them 
 again in September on the banks of the Thlew-ee-choh. 
 
 While he and his party were debating as to which part 
 of the country would be best to return by, "provisions being 
 somewhat scarce, the fog cleared away, and discovered the 
 branching antlers of twenty rein- deer spread over the sum- 
 mits of the adjacent hills. " To see and pursue was the 
 work of a moment, and in a few minutes not an active 
 hunter remained in the encampment. It was a beautiful 
 and interesting sight ; for the sun shone out, and lighting 
 up some parts, cast others into deeper shade ; the white ice 
 reflected millions of dazzling rays; the rapid leapt and 
 chafed in little ripples, which melted away into the un- 
 ruffled surface of the slumbering lake ; abrupt and craggy 
 rocks frowned on the right, and, on the left, the brown land- 
 scape receded until it was lost in the distant blue mountains. 
 The foreground was filled up with the ochre- coloured lodges 
 of the Indians, contrasting with our own pale tents ; and 
 to the whole scene animation was given by the graceful 
 motions of the unstartled deer, and the treacherous crawl- 
 ing of the wary hunters." 
 
 The very first day introduced them to the perils which 
 they were to encounter in that rugged river. Coming up 
 to a strong rapid and fall, down which the boat could only 
 be run in a light state, all the baggage was earned over 
 the rocks, and four good hands left in the boat. They 
 pushed off into the stream, and ran the first fall in safety ; 
 but having steered too much to the left, they were drawn 
 
JjJJ] DANGEKS AMONG EAPIDS. 303 
 
 on to a ledge of rock, forming part of the second ; this 
 brought the boat up with a crash which threatened imme- 
 diate destruction, and called forth a shriek from the pros- 
 trate crew. The steersman jumped out on the rock and 
 tried to lift her off, but without success. Another moment, 
 and the fierce current swung her stern round, and it seemed 
 as if nothing could save her from descending in a gush of 
 green water straight on to a sharp rock below, against 
 which a wave of five feet high was breaking. Happily 
 the steering oar had been left projecting out astern, and, as 
 the boat swung, it caught a rock, which pitched her out 
 broadside to the current, when she was carried down in 
 safety. 
 
 The party now consisted of eight boatmen, Mr, King, 
 and the commander, and seldom has so small a band of 
 adventurers experienced such a hazardous, comfortless, and 
 truly rough-and-tumble journey as they did. The weather, 
 which had been all along boisterous and cold, became 
 worse and worse as they went on, so that they were fre- 
 quently wet all day, and, owing to the want of firewood, 
 they were of necessity wet all night. Nevertheless, they 
 kept up their spirits — not ' by pouring spirits down ' — for- 
 tunately for them they had but little " fire-water," and 
 cared little for it — but by being contented and cheerful 
 under all circumstances. Captain Back, too, in the midst 
 of discomforts which might have damped the ardour of 
 most men, cheered up his party by word and action — 
 keeping ever before their minds, that, however well man 
 may order his plans, the disposal of all is in the hands of 
 God. 
 
 The river expanded sometimes into immense lakes, which 
 often detained, and sometimes threatened to arrest them 
 altogether; at other places it narrowed into a deep and 
 rapid stream, which gushed in a black boiling mass through 
 
304 RUNNING THE EAPIDS. 
 
 July 
 1834. 
 
 between high cliffy or foamed over a rugged bed of broken 
 rocks and boulder- stones — terminating not unfrequently in 
 a stupendous fall. Obstacles of this kind, however they 
 may interrupt the progress of ordinary men, are no barriers 
 in the way of nor'-westers ; so they swept through the gorges, 
 manoeuvred skilfully down the rapids, and made portages 
 to avoid the falls, with a degree of facility and safety that 
 was little short of miraculous. In one place they had a 
 narrow escape, which is but a specimen of what was of 
 daily occurrence. " A little sheet of water," says Back, 
 " bounded to the right by mounds and hills of white sand, 
 with patches of rich herbage, where numerous deer were 
 feeding, brought us to a long and appalling rapid, full of 
 rocks and large boulders ; the sides hemmed in by a wall 
 of ice, and the current flying with the velocity and force of 
 a torrent. The boat was lightened of her cargo, and I 
 stood on a high rock, with an anxious heart, to see her run 
 it. I had every hope which confidence in the judgment 
 and dexterity of my principal men could inspire ; but it 
 was impossible not to feel that one crash would be fatal to 
 the expedition. Away they went, with the speed of an 
 arrow, and, in a moment, the foam and rocks hid them 
 from my view. I heard what sounded in my ear like a 
 wild shriek, and saw Mr. King, who was a hundred yards 
 before me, make a sign with his gun, and then run forward. 
 I followed, with an agitation which may be conceived ; and, 
 to my inexpressible joy, found that the shriek was the 
 triumphant whoop of the crew, who had landed safely in a 
 small bay below. This was called Malley's Rapid, in con- 
 sequence of one of the party, so called, having lost him- 
 self in the adjacent willows for some time." 
 
 On the 13th July, a glimpse of sunshine tempted the 
 captain to halt for the purpose of taking observations, and, 
 while he was thus engaged, the men were permitted to 
 
July 
 
 1834. 
 
 GEESE WITHOUT FEATHERS. 305 
 
 scour the country in pursuit of deer and musk-oxen, which 
 literally swarmed in the barren grounds, and infused life 
 and animation into many a wild picturesque scene. The 
 hunters soon returned with four fine bucks, which afforded 
 them an agreeable change from the customary meal of 
 pemmican. 
 
 The latitude was 65° 38' 21" N., and longitude 106° 35' 
 23" W. At this place the river began to take an easterly 
 bend, which perplexed and annoyed them much ; causing 
 great anxiety as to whether it would ultimately lead them 
 to the frozen sea, or terminate in Hudson's Bay. In any 
 case, they had nothing for it but to push on, and their 
 labours were rewarded afterwards by their finding that 
 the river trended again in a northerly direction, and their 
 hopes were further increased by the discovery, on the 16th 
 July, of some old Esquimaux encampments. Once, indeed, 
 they thought they saw tents of the Esquimaux ahead, but 
 on a nearer approach they turned out to be some luxuriant 
 clumps of willows, which were inhabited by thousands of 
 geese. They had selected the spot as being a convenient 
 one for the operation of casting their feathers. 
 
 Geese, while in this condition, are most superb runners, 
 and put the hunters to their utmost metal sometimes to 
 catch them ; leading them through bog, pool, and swamp, 
 with a dexterity that often brings their pursuers into many 
 an awkward and watery predicament, leaving it often- 
 times a point in dispute w r hether the chasers or the chased 
 were the greatest geese ! They observed thousands upon 
 thousands of the most excellent quills scattered over the 
 sand. 
 
 A curious feature in this part of the country was the 
 number of huge boulder-stones scattered around, not only 
 in the river, but on the very pinnacles of the highest hills. 
 
 On the 28th July they met the first Esquimaux, who, 
 
30G MEET WITH ESQUIMAUX. L'isS? 
 
 as usual on their first seeing Europeans, exhibited at once 
 their consternation and astonishment, by shouts, yells, 
 antics, and gesticulations of the most inhuman sort; labour- 
 ing under the impression, apparently, that by so doing they 
 would frighten their new visiters away. As is also usual 
 on such occasions, of course they found themselves mis- 
 taken, for the boat continued to approach the shore despite 
 the brandishing of spears and other belligerent demon- 
 strations ; whereupon the whole nation formed in a semi- 
 circle round the spot where the boat grounded, and stood 
 on the defensive. Captain Back, however, soon established 
 friendly relations with them, by walking boldly up, unarmed 
 and alone, at the same time calling out Tima — peace — with 
 great emphasis, tossing up his arms in true Esquimaux 
 style, and, finally, shaking hands all round. This quieted 
 them, and they soon mingled with the men, from whom 
 they received a few buttons with great delight. They 
 evidently had not souls above buttons ; indeed, were one to 
 judge from the joy occasioned on receipt of these ornaments, 
 it might be doubted whether their souls had yet attained 
 to such a height of savage felicity as ever to have come up 
 to buttons before ! 
 
 A portage had to be made at this place; so, to divert 
 the attention of the poor natives, and prevent their being 
 tempted to steal, Captain Back went up to their tents and 
 sketched them. He describes them as being neat and well- 
 made, not so cunning as those further to the west, and 
 altogether a harmless, inoffensive race. The crew of the 
 boats pronounced the girls to be "bonnie creatures;" but 
 really, upon turning to an engraving from the captain's 
 portrait of one of these ladies, one can only come to the 
 conclusion that the crew's notion of bonnie creatures was, 
 to say the least of it, peculiar ! His description of the 
 taking of this portrait is so humorous that we give it in his 
 
lg^/] BACK TAKES A PORTRAIT. 307 
 
 own words: "The only lady," says he, "whose portrait 
 was sketched, was so flattered at being selected for the 
 distinction, that, in her fear lest I shonld not sufficiently 
 see every grace of her good-tempered countenance, she 
 intently watched my eye; and, according to her notion of 
 the part I was pencilling, protruded it or turned it, so as 
 to leave me no excuse for not delineating it in the full 
 proportion of its beauty. Thus, seeing me look at her 
 head, she immediately bent it down, stared portentously 
 when I sketched her eyes; puffed out her cheeks when 
 their turn arrived; and, finally, perceiving that I was 
 touching in the mouth, opened it to the full extent of her 
 jaws, and thrust out the whole length of her tongue I" From 
 these friendly natives they received assistance in carrying 
 the boat over a very bad portage — a task to which the 
 men were quite unequal; so that to them Captain Back 
 was indebted for aid, without which he would not have 
 reached the sea at all. 
 
 Leaving these interesting denizens of the north, the 
 party pursued their way, and, on the 29th July, were 
 gladdened with a sight of the first headland in the Polar 
 Sea, which was named Victoria Headland. This, then, 
 was the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which, after a violent 
 and tortuous course of five hundred and thirty geographical 
 miles, running through an iron-ribbed country, without a 
 single tree on the whole line of its banks, expanding into 
 fine large lakes with clear horizons, most embarrassing to 
 the navigator, and broken into falls, cascades, and rapids, 
 to the number of no less than eighty-three in the whole, 
 pours its waters into the Polar Sea in latitude 67° 1 1' 00" N. 
 and longitude 94° 30' 0" W. 
 
 The mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh opened into a broad 
 firth, the western shore of which was so beset by ice, that 
 they resolved on coasting to the eastward, which was more 
 
308 THE MOUTH OF THE THLEW-EE-CHOH. [^£ 
 
 open, till some favourable opportunity offered for crossing 
 over. So stormy was the weather, however, that they 
 succeeded in this at length with great difficulty, after 
 having been detained several days on an island which they 
 mistook for the main. This they called Montreal Island. 
 By slow degrees they proceeded along the ice- girt shore, 
 sometimes advancing a few miles, when a favouring breeze 
 opened a lane in the ice, but more frequently detained in 
 their dreary encampments, in which they suffered much 
 from cold and rain. In reading the graphic account of the 
 journey by Captain Back, one cannot fail to be struck by 
 the constant repetition of such sentences as the following : 
 " The morning set in with rain, for which, custom had now 
 taught us to look as a thing of course; but a faint hope 
 was excited by the view of a narrow lane of water, which 
 had opened, how or from what cause we knew not, outside, 
 between the grounded ice and the main body ; and prepara- 
 tions were already making for a start at high water, when 
 the wind suddenly chopped round from S.E. to N.W., and 
 fixed us once more to the spot;" and, again: " A wet fog 
 ushered in the morning of the 14th August, and left every 
 object dark and indefinable at eighty or ninety paces 
 distant. The breeze increased, and was fast packing the 
 seaward body of ice, which now came with considerable 
 velocity towards the shore, and threatened to lengthen our 
 tedious and most annoying detention." To render their 
 position even more deplorable, scarcely any fuel was to 
 be found, and they experienced the greatest difficulty in 
 procuring sufficient to cook their food, often being obliged 
 to breakfast, dine, and sup on a morsel of dry pemmican 
 and a cup of cold water. One day three deer came within 
 shot, and were killed. No savoury steaks, however, tickled 
 their olfactory nerves with pleasant fumes, or gratified 
 their palates with an unaccustomed meal ; — they could not 
 
1 8 ™;] FARTHER PROGRESS ARRESTED. 309 
 
 be cooked for want of dry fuel !" The low flat country, 
 too, was the picture of desolation. " It was one irregular 
 plain of sand and stones ; and had it not been for a rill of 
 water, the meandering of which relieved the monotony of 
 the sterile scene, one might have fancied one's self in one 
 of the parched plains of the East, rather than on the shores 
 of the Arctic Sea." 
 
 Nevertheless, with unflinching ardour did Captain Back 
 and his gallant crew push forward, in the hope of reaching 
 a more open sea, and connecting their discoveries with 
 those of Captain Franklin at Point Turnagain. Indeed, a 
 spirit of endurance and cheerfulness distinguished the whole 
 party, which nothing seemed capable of damping. On the 
 7th of August they reached the extreme point of land, which 
 terminates the wide mouth of the river, and whence the 
 coast trends to the westward. This was named Point 
 Ogle, and another cape, seen far to the west, was named 
 Point Kichardson. Several portions of the coast of Boothia 
 Felix were also seen in the distance to the northward. 
 Here they were completely baffled in every attempt made 
 to advance. The ice became more firmly wedged every 
 day; one of the men fell sick; the season was far advanced, 
 and any further attempts to proceed would have been fool- 
 hardy; so, under these untoward circumstances, Captain 
 Back resolved to retrace his steps. Before doing so, how- 
 ever, the British flag was unfurled, and the land taken 
 possession of, with three enthusiastic cheers, in the name 
 of His Most Gracious Majesty William IV. The latitude 
 of the place was 68° 13' 57" N., longitude 94° 58' 1" W., 
 and variation, as well as the sluggishness of the instru- 
 ments would allow it to be determined, 1° 46' W. 
 
 Our limits do not permit us to follow the adventurous 
 voyageurs as they retrace their route up the foaming cata- 
 racts of the Thlew-ee-choh. In the middle of August they 
 
310 CONCLUSION OF THE EXPEDITION. [JJg? 
 
 left the cold precincts of the Arctic Sea, and on the 17th 
 September met Mr. M'Leod, according to appointment, at 
 Sand- Hill Bay. He had long been expecting them, and had 
 spent many an anxious hour in watching the distant objects 
 in the direction of their route. With this gentleman they 
 returned to Fort Reliance, " after an absence of nearly four 
 months ; tired, indeed, but well in health, and truly grate- 
 ful for the manifold mercies we had experienced in the 
 course of our long and perilous journey." 
 
 Preparations were soon set on foot to spend another 
 winter in the wilderness. Once more the woods resounded 
 with the woodman's axe, and the little rooms glowed with 
 the blazing fires of wood. Again the nets were set and 
 the guns loaded, and the white man and the red ranged 
 the woods in company ; while Captain Back and Mr. King 
 found ample and interesting occupation in mapping their 
 discoveries and writing their journals. 
 
 On the 28th of May 1835, Captain Back bade adieu to 
 the polar regions, and returned to England, where he 
 arrived on the 8th September, after an absence of two 
 years and seven months. The remainder of the party 
 returned by the Hudson's Bay Company's ship in October. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Recent Discoveries. 
 
 Dease and Simpson's Overland Journey to the Polar Sea, 1837-38-39. 
 
 The joyous whoop and plaintive song of Captain Back's 
 retreating party had hardly ceased to reverberate among 
 the hills and valleys of the barren grounds — the echoes 
 had scarce rolled their last faint murmur across the clear 
 waters of the far north, and the startled deer had scarcely 
 
iJjjT] DEASE AND SIMPSON'S EXPEDITION INSTRUCTIONS. 311 
 
 ventured to indulge in a feeling of security, or ceased to 
 gaze around in bewildered astonishment at the unexpected 
 intrusion on their sterile domain, when the echoes were 
 re-awakened, and the antlered monarchs of the waste re- 
 disturbed, by another adventurous party of white men, 
 whose restless curiosity and insatiable thirst for knowledge 
 led them once more to attempt the completion of the sur- 
 vey of the northern coasts of America. On this occasion 
 the expedition was conducted by two gentlemen in the ser- 
 vice of the Hudson's Bay Company — Messrs. Dease and 
 Simpson, men eminently qualified for the arduous task 
 given to them to accomplish — the one from his long 
 acquaintance with the nature and resources of the country 
 to be explored, and his thorough experience in arctic tra- 
 velling; the other from his scientific attainments, super- 
 added to an experience of nor' -west life of some years' 
 standing, his youth, and energetic resolution in encounter- 
 ing and overcoming difficulties. 
 
 The instructions for the guidance of these gentlemen were 
 conveyed to them in a letter from Sir George Simpson, the 
 governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, dated Norway 
 House, 2d July 1836, the substance of which was as follows : 
 
 The expedition, which was to consist of twelve men, was 
 to be conducted to Fort Chepewyan or Great Slave Lake, 
 as might be considered expedient, where they were to pass 
 the winter of 1836-7. On the opening of the navigation 
 in June, they were to proceed by boat down the Mackenzie 
 River to Fort Norman, and there leave four men, with 
 directions to proceed to Great Bear Lake, and, on the most 
 convenient position, erect buildings, establish fisheries, and 
 collect provisions for the maintenance of the party during 
 the winter of 1837-8. In the meantime, Messrs. Dease and 
 Simpson were to continue their journey down the Mac- 
 kenzie to the sea, along the shores of which they were to 
 
312 INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 July 
 1836. 
 
 explore, as far as to the most easterly point reached by 
 Captain Beechey's barge in 1826. Returning to their 
 winter quarters on Great Bear Lake, they were to make 
 preparations for another voyage of discovery in the summer 
 of 1838. The object of that voyage was to trace the coast, 
 from Franklin's Point Turnagain, eastward to the mouth 
 of the Thlew-ee-choh, or as much farther as the nature of 
 the ground, their resources, and the advanced state of the 
 season, would admit. 
 
 The necessary outfit of provisions, clothing, astronomical 
 instruments, &c, being completed, Mr. Dease and his 
 voyageurs took their departure for the far north, in the 
 Athabasca brigade, on the 21st July — reaching Fort 
 Chepewyan, where they were to winter, on the 28th of 
 September ; while Mr. Simpson proceeded to the colony of 
 Red River, there to spend as much time as he had to 
 spare in brushing up his scientific knowledge, (which, amid 
 the care and bustle of a trader's life, had got somewhat 
 rusty,) and in making preparations for his journey. 
 
 As the long summer journey performed by Mr. Dease 
 to Fort Chepewyan has been, at least in its principal 
 features and characteristics, described in the similar jour- 
 ney accomplished by Captain Back, we shall leave him 
 for the present, and follow the fortunes of Mr. Simpson — 
 accompanying him to the Red River settlement, and 
 thence, in a winter journey, to Fort Chepewyan. 
 
 It were foreign to our purpose to enter into a minute 
 account of Red River settlement, yet we think that a cur- 
 sory glance in passing at this oasis in the desert, may 
 not be uninteresting to the reader. 
 
 Red River settlement is situated on the banks of the 
 Red and Assiniboine Rivers, both of which unite their 
 streams at a point about the centre of the colony, and 
 nearly opposite Fort Garry, the principal establishment of 
 
JgjT] RED RIVER SETTLEMENTS. 313 
 
 the Hudson's Bay Company. From this point they roll 
 their united waters into Lake Winipeg, watering, in their 
 course, the wooded slopes, covered with luxuriant vegeta- 
 tion, amid which the wooden cottages of the settlers are 
 picturesquely embedded. The colony is well supplied with 
 schools and churches, is salubrious and productive, and 
 were it not for the fact that there is no market beyond that 
 which is furnished by the Hudson's Bay Company, it would 
 be a flourishing settlement. As it is, the company, of 
 course, can purchase but a comparatively small quantity 
 of the produce; so that the remainder, if not consumed at 
 home, must either be lost, or conveyed, at great risk and 
 expense, over the prairies some hundreds of miles, to the 
 American town of St. Peter's, through the country of the 
 Sieux and other warlike tribes of Indians. 
 
 Three races of men compose the population of this 
 sequestered spot : the descendants of Scotch Highlanders, 
 who originally emigrated under the auspices of the Earl 
 of Selkirk ; Indians of the Cree and Salteaux tribes, who 
 have been induced to give up the chase, and settle under 
 the pastoral wing of a clergyman of the Church of Eng- 
 land; and Canadian half-breeds, who are the wildest, 
 gayest, and most reckless set of dare-devils that ever scat- 
 tered death and destruction among the terrified buffalo of 
 the prairies, or with hilarious revelry startled the outraged 
 echoes of the wilderness. These half-breeds spend their 
 time in hunting the buffalo, at which they are very expert, 
 or in conveying the company's goods from post to post in 
 boats, up rapids, over cataracts, lakes, and portages that 
 would seem to defy the utmost powers of man. Nothing 
 daunts them, nothing quiets them (but sleep), nothing 
 tires, and nothing tames them ! 
 
 Great quantities of that delicious compound of dried 
 buffalo meat, fat and hairs, called pemmican, is used by the 
 
314 RED RIVER HALF-BREEDS. [1836. 
 
 servants of the company ; and as this calls for a pretty ex- 
 tensive supply of beef, these wild fellows find their interest 
 and inclination felicitously conjoined in the chase of the 
 buffalo. Owing to the regularity of this hunt, the buffaloes, 
 labouring, doubtless, under that trepidation which self-love 
 is apt to engender in the presence of dangerous society, 
 have retired to some distance from the colony, so that the 
 hunters have to make a journey of upwards of three days, 
 and sometimes longer, ere they meet with their game. 
 And a wild, interesting sight it is, to behold these demi- 
 savages assembling on the banks of the Assiniboine in 
 large bands, with waggons, carts, guns, and horses, pre- 
 paratory to setting out for one of their periodical hunts. 
 Being fond of gaudy show, and restrained by no Parisian 
 code of fashion, the half-breeds dress in light blue cloth 
 capotes, fastened round the waist with bright scarlet or 
 parti-coloured worsted sashes. Very broad and conspicuous 
 belts of the same colour, ornamented sometimes with white 
 beads, cross their breasts and backs, to which they append 
 powder-horns and shot-pouches. Leggins of variously 
 coloured cloths, all more or less ornamented by the women, 
 with beads or silk thread according to taste, clothe their legs. 
 Moccasins, garnished with porcupine quills, dyed red, 
 blue, and yellow, defend their feet, while their heads are 
 decked with hats, caps, bonnets, and nightcaps, or nature's 
 own covei'ing, all of which are covered profusely with tinsel 
 hat-cords, gold and silver tinsel tassels, ribbons of every hue 
 in the rainbow, and a good many more that the rainbow 
 never displayed. 
 
 Imagine some fifty or sixty of these fellows dashing 
 over the prairies with their black hair streaming; dark 
 eyes flashing ; swart faces glittering ; loud voices shouting ; 
 guns glancing in the sun, and dust flying in clouds from 
 the hoofs of their buffalo runners, as they prance, rear, 
 
183S.] HUNTING BUFFALOES ON THE PRAIRIES. 315 
 
 gallop, and curvette in a species of frenzy — imagine it, we 
 say, and if you think that you have realized it, we assure 
 you that you are mistaken! Let us join them in a hunt. 
 
 Far away over the undulating prairies the line of march 
 extends, carts, waggons, horsemen, and pedestrians, looking 
 from a distance like the great sea-serpent, coiling its lazy 
 length over the waves of a petrified ocean. The carts are 
 taken for the purpose of conveying the pemmican home, and 
 the women and children are taken for the purpose of com- 
 pounding it. Arrived at a little clump of trees, near which 
 a herd of buffalo have been observed, the women begin to 
 unharness their cattle and pitch their camp; while the 
 men, having mounted their buffalo runners, trot off in a 
 band, with the design of surrounding their prey; now de- 
 scending and now rising on the swells of the prairie. The 
 buffalo runners are usually good, fleet nags, well trained 
 to the work; so that, when they see the buffalo, it is un- 
 necessary to use whip, spur, or rein, as they set off at full 
 speed of their own accord, apparently as much interested 
 in the chase as their riders ; a propensity of no small ad- 
 vantage to the hunters, who have both hands fully occupied 
 in loading and firing their guns. As they cautiously 
 ascend the brow of a swell, a sudden halt among the fore- 
 most apprizes those in the rear that game is at hand ; and 
 as they press eagerly forward, they behold an immense 
 herd of buffalo browsing quietly down in a hollow. A 
 few hurried exclamations take place. Priming is examined, 
 and away they go, down the slope like a legion of demons. 
 Soon the unsuspecting herds toss their ponderous heads in 
 the air; and, beholding this host of rushing monsters, away 
 they go with a heavy lumbering gait, which, however, soon 
 increases to a sharp run, as a shot or two from the more 
 impatient spirits helps to quicken their perceptions. Soon 
 the pursuers gain on the animals, every fibre of whose bulky 
 
316 BUFFALO HUNTING. [1836. 
 
 frames quiver as they strain to distance them ; but in vain. 
 A few minutes more, and the hunters are up with them. 
 Shots begin to fly in quick succession, and here and there 
 a black spot on the prairie tells that the work of destruc- 
 tion has begun. That big fellow with the red nightcap is 
 an old hand at the work. Already he has dropt two fat 
 cows, on each of which as he passed her he threw a mitten 
 to mark it his. He now nears another. The terrified 
 animal, with starting eye-balls, spurns the earth behind it 
 at a rate that makes the hunter's nag stretch to its utmost, 
 and gain but slowly even then. He is within ten yards; 
 and, pointing the gun without placing it to his shoulder, 
 he lets fly. The buffalo staggers, falls; one last struggle 
 of its vast frame, and it falls dead — shot clean through the 
 heart — while the hunter, reloading his gun, dashes past at 
 fall speed, pitching his red nightcap at the dead animal as 
 he bounds away. All around, the same scene, with slight 
 modifications, is being enacted. Horsemen and buffalo, 
 mingled together, dash wildly over the ground, while 
 shouts and yells, the bellowing of animals, incessant rat- 
 tling of shots, and thunder of hoofs, combined with clouds 
 of dust and smoke, make up a confusion of sights and 
 sounds absolutely bewildering; while the great number of 
 black spots that cover the whole land give promise of rich, 
 marrow-bone suppers, and lots of greasy occupation to the 
 squaws, who follow in the rear for some days to come. The 
 pemmican compounded from the meat thus obtained is 
 very well adapted for travelling provision, being compact 
 and nutritious, and will keep good for years. It has 
 proved invaluable to all arctic explorers in their long, 
 perilous journeys. 
 
 At this settlement, then, Mr. Simpson remained till the 
 commencement of winter; and then bethinking himself 
 that it was time to set out for Fort Chepewyan, that post 
 
Jg3^] MR. SIMPSON STARTS FOR FORT CHEPEWYAN. 317 
 
 being distant about 1277 miles, all of which had to be 
 traversed on foot, he prepared for the journey. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 1st December 1836, he left Red 
 River on horseback, the ground being still free from snow 
 and not well adapted for the use of sleighs, three of which 
 and a cariole were therefore left to follow, drawn light by 
 the dogs, until their arrival at a frozen lake, or a fall of 
 snow, should render them available. Several young friends 
 from the colony conveyed him to his first encampment, and 
 on their way fell in with a wolf, after which they had a 
 spirited hunt. It was unsuccessful, however, as might have 
 been expected, on hard frozen ground. 
 
 Wolf-hunting is a favourite pastime with some of the 
 settlers, and is practised in spring when the first thaws 
 begin. These soften the surface of the snow, so that the 
 wolves can no longer bound rapidly over it, as they did in 
 winter, but sink deep at every step, while the long legs of 
 the pursuing horse enables him to plunge rapidly through 
 it, and so gain upon the wolf, which may be easily shot with 
 gun or pistol. 
 
 At the first encampment Mr. Simpson and his friends 
 spent a few hours together, and then the latter, bidding 
 him adieu, returned to Fort Garry, while he and his party 
 laid their heads on their saddles and sank into repose under 
 the starry canopy of the winter sky. 
 
 The waning moon shone brilliantly when they awoke; 
 and taking an early breakfast, they all started on foot. 
 The morning was cold, but exhilarating: the sun, rising in 
 cloudless splendour, threw his horizontal rays across the 
 wide plain, and, illuminating the hoar-frost upon the long 
 dry grass, gave to the expanse around them the appearance 
 of a silver- spangled sea. At noon they halted for a short 
 time at a cluster of trees, in whose shade they obtained 
 sufficient snow for their horses and dogs, in lieu of water, a 
 
318 FIRES IN THE PRAIRIES. [^ 
 
 luxury not to be found in these arid plains. The country 
 over which they passed was studded with a few copses of 
 poplar and dwarf oak; but a great part of it having been 
 swept by the running fires, so frequent and terrible in the 
 prairies, presented a blackened and dismal aspect. These 
 fires are often occasioned by the carelessness of Indians, 
 who sometimes leave the lighted embers of their camp- 
 fires burning, and the first breeze of wind that springs 
 up sets the surrounding grass in a blaze. Lightning occa- 
 sionally ignites the dry grass in summer, and sometimes 
 the warring tribes that infest the prairies set them on fire 
 for the purpose of driving away the buffalo from the hunt- 
 ing grounds of their enemies. In any case, whether 
 kindled by the flashing flames of heaven, or set on fire by 
 the hands of savage men, the results are most terrific; 
 especially in those places where the grass is long and 
 luxuriant, affording food of the most inflammable nature to 
 the fire, and which burns with a fierce rapidity that bids 
 defiance to the utmost efforts that human power can make 
 for its extinction, as it rolls its smoke-capped volumes 
 along the undulating ground, with a speed that soon over- 
 takes the fleetest courser in the land. Well does the savage 
 know this, and when the distant roar of the devouring ele- 
 ment is borne faintly to his ear upon the breeze, the sudden 
 start of alarm, the distended nostril, the glaring eye-ball, 
 and the deeply attentive ear, tell eloquently of the terrible 
 character of the dreaded enemy that approaches ; while the 
 bound on to his horse, and the burst away across the prairie, 
 show that life and death are pending on the race. An 
 ingenious method is often resorted to by the natives on 
 occasions of this kind, if they happen to have the materials 
 for producing fire along with them. Hastily tearing up 
 the grass around them, they clear a space as well as they 
 can, and, getting into the middle of it, set fire to the grass 
 
THE PRATRIE ON FIRE. 
 
 . . . The sxidden start of alarm, the distended nostril, the glaring eye- 
 ball, and the deeply attentive ear, tell eloquently of the terrible character of 
 the dreaded enemy that approaches ; while the bound on to his horse, and the 
 burst across the prairie, show that life and death are pen 
 Page 318. 
 
 the race.- 
 
^ S 3g] DOG CAKIOLES. 319 
 
 to leeward. In a few minutes a large space of ground is 
 burnt bare, on wbich tbey take their stand in safety, well 
 assured that when the flames reach the spot they will 
 naturally die out for want of fuel. It may be imagined, 
 however, that it is no easy matter to clear a space suffi- 
 ciently large where the grass is long and matted; and 
 sometimes, ere this can be accomplished, the fire rushes in 
 upon and consumes them. The particular part of the 
 prairie, however, over which Mr. Simpson and his party 
 now walked, had been covered with grass of a shorter 
 growth, which, although it burns fiercely enough, and 
 leaves a melancholy blackened tract behind, is not danger- 
 ous to the traveller; a good rush and a light spring being 
 generally sufficient to carry him over the fiery billow. 
 
 On the 3d December they reached Manitobah Lake, 
 which had but recently assumed its icy covering. It pre- 
 sented so formidable an appearance of rough, broken, and 
 jagged peaks, as to induce some of the party to suggest the 
 propriety of trying another route. This, however, Mr. 
 Simpson would not do ; so, dismissing the wheeled vehicles 
 and horses, they packed their baggage upon the dog-sledges, 
 and started after them on foot. The dog-sledge is a thin, 
 light slab of wood, turned up at one end, and is usually 
 drawn by four dogs, whose feet are covered with little cloth 
 shoes for the purpose of protecting them from the snow, 
 which, when slightly frozen on the surface, soon cuts and 
 maims the poor animals if not thus defended. A cariole 
 had been provided for Mr. Simpson, who, however, pre- 
 ferring the more manly conveyance of a pair of excellent 
 legs, used it to carry his books and instruments. " Then 
 began," says he, " the flourishing of whips, the shouts of 
 drivers, and the howling of refractory dogs — all blending 
 together in one horrible outcry. For some distance we 
 found the ice almost impracticable, but on doubling a point 
 
320 WINTER TRAVELLING. [J^J 
 
 the broken rugged masses gave place to a smooth and 
 glassy level. To walk on such a surface with the moc- 
 casins, or soft leather shoes of the country, was next to 
 impossible; we were, however, provided with iron cram- 
 pets, which we strapped on much in the same manner as 
 the Kamtschatdales wear their " posluki," or ice shoes. 
 Thus secured from many an awkward fall, we advanced 
 rapidly, but found it no easy matter to keep pace with our 
 dogs, who, rejoicing in the ease with which they now 
 dragged their burdens, scampered along at a great rate. 
 The young ice, as yet but a few inches thick, crashed and 
 rumbled like thunder under our tread. About noon a vio- 
 lent storm of snow-drift suddenly arose, and compelled us 
 to seek shelter among the spreading oaks and elms that 
 ornament the banks of this extensive lake."* 
 
 On the 5th they travelled thirty-four miles across a series 
 of gently rounded bays fringed with rushes. The wind 
 blew piercingly cold, so that when they stopped to cut a 
 hole in the ice for water, after being a good deal over- 
 heated, their clothes, gloves, and caps immediately became 
 solid, and they were glad to run again in order to repro- 
 duce caloric. 
 
 It is difficult for those who have not experienced it to 
 comprehend the intensity of the cold in these regions in the 
 depth of winter, especially if it be accompanied (and driven 
 vigorously into the eyes, up the nose, and down the throat) 
 by a stiff nor'-west breeze! Let it be ever so cold — even 
 forty degrees below zero — and it is bearable so long as 
 there is no wind; but should the wind rise in such weather, 
 it is next to impossible to face it. No language can convey 
 a correct idea of its bitter intensity. Cold — biting cold — 
 doesn't come near it: frost — bitter, withering frost — ia 
 
 * Simpson's Discoveries, p. 30. 
 
Dkc. 
 
 1836. 
 
 FROST AND FIRE. 321 
 
 rather a warm, balmy idea than otherwise, compared with 
 it. It is, in fact, beyond all description, and the only thing 
 that it is not beyond is, being thoroughly understood and 
 appreciated when felt! During their long and tedious 
 journey the travellers experienced a good deal of this cold 
 weather. In speaking of it one night, on which the frost 
 seems to have been more peculiarly vicious than usual, Mr. 
 Simpson says : " The night was intensely cold, and I 
 literally turned my fingers with the sextant while taking 
 the usual observations." This burning of the fingers is no 
 figure of speech, at least as far as effect goes. The conse- 
 quence of touching cold metal at such a temperature is 
 somewhat similar to that which follows on coming into 
 contact with metal at a red heat. As an instance of this, 
 we may mention the case of a traveller in these regions, 
 who, having been out with his gun, got so benumbed in his 
 right thumb as to be incapable of opening the catch of his 
 powder-flask. Several grouse were sitting temptingly 
 before him within shot; but, do what he would, the only 
 result of his frequent attempts to open the flask was to 
 double up his awkward and utterly useless thumb. In 
 this dilemma he seized thellask with his teeth and effected 
 his object, at the expense, however, of a large piece of the 
 skin of his tongue, which adhered to the cold metal ! 
 
 There is a proverb which asserts that extremes meet, 
 and, certainly, if frost and^re may be called extremes, they 
 did meet, and verified the proverb, in the experience of Mr. 
 Simpson's party, on the night of the 13th December. The 
 men, after travelling all day over a country which became 
 at every step more difficult to traverse, owing to the fast 
 falling snow, laid their shivering frames beneath the shelter 
 of a fine wood of elms, when the dry grass, on which they 
 lay, caught fire, and before they were aroused, their blankets 
 were in a blaze. Fortunately they were not burned ; so, 
 x 
 
322 CURIOUS VARIETIES OF EEDS. \a$36. 
 
 with characteristic indifference to all things sublunary, they 
 bundled up their scorched blankets on the following morn- 
 ing, and resumed their march. 
 
 During the journey they saw numbers of grouse of 
 various kinds, as also a great many white hares, which 
 afforded them some sport as they walked over hill and dale, 
 and proved an agreeable addition to their evening meals, 
 as they encamped, night after night, under the trees, and 
 made their beds upon the snow. Beds, in this world, are 
 of various, and not unfrequently of curious kinds ; and, in 
 the Hudson's Bay territories, more, perhaps, than in any 
 other part of this world, beds are uncommonly various, and 
 particularly curious. There is first the bed of moss ; which, 
 adapting itself to the various outlines of the human figure, 
 approximates more nearly than any other to the feather 
 bed, and many a good sleep have weary voyageurs had upon 
 such a couch. Then there is the bed of pine branches, 
 which is a very excellent one, full of spring, and if care- 
 fully spread, so as to prevent the ends of the branches from 
 boring into the ribs, is quite luxurious. Sometimes, how- 
 ever, pine branches are not to be had, and moss is not; in 
 which case a flat rock forms a pretty good, though un- 
 doubtedly a hard bed. If, however, as is sometimes the 
 case, the only spot of level ground on which the luckless 
 traveller can prostrate his exhausted limbs, be a bank of 
 sand, or a place covered with rounded stones, varying in 
 size from a marble to a cannon shot, the case is very de- 
 plorable. The latter may be somewhat improved by care- 
 fully removing the largest stones, but in any case it will be 
 found to be unmitigated misery ; and, whether the sand or 
 the stones be preferred, the inevitable result will be, that 
 the traveller will sincerely wish he had preferred the other. 
 There is also a species of hydraulic bed very much used in 
 these parts. This, however, is not so much a bed of choice, 
 
JJJg] PRAIRIE WOLVES. 323 
 
 as a bed of necessity, being oftentimes unavoidable in con- 
 sequence of frequent showers of rain rendering a dry spot 
 of ground unattainable. Besides these, there are infinite 
 varieties of what may with propriety be called composite 
 beds, partaking, in part, of all the different kinds; but 
 among the various descriptions, the snow beds on which the 
 arctic voyageurs nightly reposed were certainly not the 
 worst. 
 
 During the greater part of the journey, troops of prairie 
 wolves followed them, for the purpose of devouring anything 
 that happened to be left in the encampments ; and they grew 
 so bold at last, as to menace the dogs, when exhaustion 
 induced the latter to lag behind the party. " Our dogs," 
 says Simpson, " began to knock up one by one, and three 
 were untackled all day. These lagged behind, unobserved, 
 in the afternoon ; and I had to send a man back to look for 
 them. He met them just as our pertinacious followers, the 
 wolves, were coming up ; and saved the poor animals, who 
 were in no condition to resist such powerful adversaries. 
 In the plain districts, many horses fall a prey to their 
 voracity." Of the different varieties of wolves that infest 
 the plains and forests of North America, the large gray one 
 is the most voracious and daring. " On the barren grounds 
 through which the Coppermine River flows, I had more 
 than once an opportunity of seeing a single wolf in close 
 pursuit of a rein-deer ; and I witnessed a chase on Point 
 Lake when covered with ice, which terminated in a fine 
 buck rein- deer being overtaken by a large white wolf, and 
 disabled by a bite in the flank. An Indian, who was con- 
 cealed on the borders of the lake, ran in and cut the deer's 
 throat with his knife, the wolf at once relinquishing his 
 prey, and sneaking off. In the chase the poor deer urged 
 its flight by great bounds, which for a time exceeded the 
 speed of the wolf; but it stopped so frequently to gaze on 
 
324 MEET WITH INDIANS. 
 
 Dkc. 
 1836. 
 
 its relentless enemy, that the latter, toiling on at a long 
 gallop, with its tongue lolling out of its mouth, gradually 
 came up. After each hasty look, the poor deer redoubled 
 its efforts to escape; but, either exhausted by fatigue or 
 enervated by fear, it became, just before it was overtaken, 
 scarcely able to keep its feet."* 
 
 During their march they seldom met with Indians, and 
 the whole country appeared a vast solitude. On the 28th, 
 however, they met with two hunters who were visiting their 
 traps. On that morning a strong, cold, north wind blew, 
 driving in their faces a storm of snow which almost blinded 
 them. About breakfast-time they fell in with a Chepe- 
 wyan hunter, and invited him to share their breakfast. A 
 cup of tea and a handful of biscuit were given to him after 
 he had messed with the men, the former of which he 
 swallowed, and put the latter into his pouch to carry to his 
 little ones at home. At noon they met another belonging 
 to the same camp, who had just killed a badger, which he 
 was taking home. These red children of the woods were 
 well clad, and living in the midst of plenty — supplied by 
 the hand of Him who giveth liberally, and upbraideth not, 
 alike to the dweller in the city, and the inhabitant of the 
 wilderness. 
 
 New Year's day arrived ! What a flood of associations 
 rush in upon us when we think of New Year's day ! The 
 day that seems from time immemorial to have been dedi- 
 cated to mirth and joy, and good feeling and hearty fellow- 
 ship among men ! The day, of all others, famous for huge 
 fires, and cold frosty weather, and happy faces hurrying to 
 and fro, not very well knowing with what purpose in view, 
 but with a confused sort of intention of shaking everybody 
 by the hand, and wishing them a "happy New Year." The 
 
 * Fauna Boreali Americana, vol. i. p. 63. 
 
Jan. 
 
 18 
 
 {JJ NEW-YEAR'S DAY FORT CARLTON. 325 
 
 sun of New Year's day arose too, according to its ancient 
 custom ; and, as it rolled up the eastern sky, how many 
 happy homes and merry faces did it shine upon in old 
 England ! what a stir did it create throughout the length 
 and breadth of that thickly-peopled land ! It rose red and 
 bright on the wilderness, and sending its horizontal rays 
 through the frosty air, tipping the white mounds of snow ; 
 and penetrating the dark branches of the shrubs and trees, 
 it shone upon the figures of our arctic wanderers, as they 
 rose from their cold couches, and prepared to resume their 
 long, long journey. There was a smile upon their faces 
 too on that morning, as if its joyous influence penetrated 
 even there. And so it did, for that night they hoped to 
 reach Fort Carlton, and there — with the comfort of a dozen 
 new faces and fresh voices, with whom to interchange the 
 good wishes of the season — spend the opening days of 
 the New Year. On the day following their arrival at 
 Carlton, a ball was given at the fort, whereat all the in- 
 mates, young and old, gave free vent to their passion for 
 dancing, if the motions of the performers may be so desig- 
 nated. Both the women and men in these climes, being 
 very much accustomed to snow shoes, and very much un- 
 accustomed to dancing-pumps, draw much more largely on 
 the services of the heels than the toes, and the effect of 
 this, combined with a peculiar inaptitude to graceful action 
 generally, is to produce a motion something between that 
 of an elephant's head and a boat in a heavy sea, which 
 may be pleasant, but undoubtedly doesn't seem so. 
 
 Allowing themselves a rest of three days here, they 
 started again on the 4th, reinforced with fresh men and 
 dogs. The succeeding part of their journey was very 
 much a repetition of the first. Lake and river, hill and 
 valley, plain and woodland, were traversed — with difficulty 
 sometimes, it is true, but always with cheerfulness and per- 
 
326 ARRIVE AT FORT CHEPEWYAN. \Xm. 
 
 severance — Mr. Simpson undertaking the trying task of 
 opening the track, that is, leading the way; and, in so 
 doing, beating down the deep snow into a sort of path, 
 which very much relieves those who follow behind. During 
 the whole month they travelled thus; and on the 1st of 
 February, the very day on which it had been calculated 
 before they set out they expected to conclude their journey, 
 they arrived at Fort Chepewyan; having performed, in 
 two months, a journey of 1277 miles, every inch of which, 
 with the exception of the first day, had been traversed on 
 foot by the whole party. On the route they touched at 
 three of the company's establishments : Forts Pelly, Carlton, 
 and Isle a la Crosse. At Fort Chepewyan, which is situated 
 on Lake Athabasca, they were cordially welcomed by Mr. 
 Smith, the gentleman in charge of the post, and Mr. Simp- 
 son's colleague in the expedition, Mr. Dease. 
 
 Here they remained until the end of May. Among other 
 preparations that were made for the voyage, two substantial 
 "boats were built, of twenty-four feet keel and six feet beam 
 — each carrying two lug- sails. They were built for shallow 
 navigation, and were each provided with a small, oiled 
 canvass canoe, and portable wooden frame; and being ex- 
 actly similar in size and appearance, they were respectively 
 named Castor and Pollux ; while a capacious bateau, in- 
 tended for Great Bear Lake, gloried in the name of Goliah. 
 
 On the 1st of June 1837 the expedition left Fort Chepe- 
 wyan, under a salute, which they returned, in genuine 
 British style, with three hearty cheers; and, with beating 
 hearts and high hopes, they congratulated each other on 
 having at length fairly commenced their voyage of dis- 
 covery, anticipating a success in their enterprise which was 
 afterwards fully realized. 
 
 Traversing the western extremity of Athabasca Lake, 
 they entered Rocky River, its principal outlet, and encamped. 
 
June 
 1837. 
 
 STARTING OF THE EXPEDITION. 327 
 
 " We formed," says Simpson, " a small but happy party; 
 and as our white tents glittered in the rays of the sun, now 
 declining to the horizon after his long diurnal course, with 
 the broad river running in front, and around us the green 
 woods, the view was pleasing if not picturesque." On the 
 following morning they were afloat by three o'clock ; and 
 passing the confluence of Peace River, entered Great Slave 
 River, where they were much struck with the advanced 
 state of vegetation, as compared with the country they had 
 just left, which was retarded in consequence of the chilling 
 influence of the lake. Bright green poplar and willows, 
 blending with the sombre verdure of the pine, clothed the 
 banks of the stream. Not far from this place they overtook 
 their hunters, who had been sent on two days ahead, squatted, 
 along with a party of Chepewyans, like so many beaver, on 
 the banks of the Salt River. As a supply of salt could be 
 obtained at a plain in the vicinity of this river, Mr. Simpson 
 got three of the largest Indian canoes and ascended it. The 
 distance to the opening of the plain exceeds twenty miles, 
 following the tortuous course of the stream, which is 
 shallow, and, as they advanced, became salt as brine. They 
 had not the good fortune to fall in with buffaloes, though 
 their tracks, and those of the moose and bears, were 
 numerous; but they consoled themselves by making a 
 terrific assault on the swans, geese, and ducks, which were 
 attracted thither in great numbers by the briny waters. 
 They did not search long for salt. A single mound on the 
 plain furnished them with thirty bags of the finest quality, 
 and seemed undiminished by the removal of a quantity 
 sufficient for their own wants, and for the supply of the 
 Athabasca and Mackenzie River districts! A mountain, 
 which terminates the plain at the distance of four or five 
 miles, glistened as if incrusted with the same pure white 
 substance, and yet, although the whole land seemed to be 
 
328 FORT RESOLUTION MIDNIGHT AMUSEMENTS. [Jjg* 
 
 saturated with salt, delicious springs of fresh water gushed 
 from the mountain sides. 
 
 Having finished their work, they bivouacked and feasted 
 under as lovely an evening sky as fancy could paint. A 
 sudden gust of wind, which bent the tall poplars like wands, 
 cleared off the mosquitoes, and permitted them to enjoy a 
 few hours of refreshing rest in the soft twilight ; for there 
 was no longer any night in these regions. 
 
 On the morning of the 10th they reached Great Slave 
 Lake, and every eye was eagerly bent upon the horizon of 
 that great inland sea, but to their chagrin they saw an 
 unbroken line of ice barring their further progress. On 
 advancing to its edge, it was found to be firm and solid, 
 and likely to remain so for some time. There was nothing 
 for it, however, but patience; so, calling as much of this 
 virtue as they possessed to their assistance, they made their 
 way to Fort Resolution that evening, by the help of canoes, 
 and dragging the boat light over the shallows. From the 
 10th to the 21st of June they were kept prisoners at this 
 establishment, and amused themselves as they best could 
 with dances and games. Wherever we go in this world 
 we shall find something or other which will tend to elevate 
 our eyebrows! and we doubt not that it will surprise our 
 readers a little to learn, that the men of the expedition chose 
 the hour of midnight for their out- door sport3 and games; 
 this being the coolest and most agreeable part of the day! 
 The dances were conducted in the most approved Indian 
 style; venison and fish being the food, and tea the only 
 beverage — the remnants of the supper being carried off by 
 the ladies, at least by such of them as had an atom of mus- 
 cular energy left in their dusky frames. Mr. Dease took 
 the opportunity of vaccinating all the young people at the 
 place; half-breeds and Indians, all underwent the operation, 
 and felt the benefit of it in after years, when the smallpox 
 
j™ 7 T ] MACKENZIE RIVER DOG-RIBS. 329 
 
 swept off the North American Indians by hundreds. The 
 same benefit had been previously conferred upon the whole 
 concourse of natives at Fort Chepewyan. 
 
 The ice at length opened sufficiently on the 21st to enable 
 them to advance ; and accordingly they set off once more, 
 having embarked a cargo of twenty-one dogs in the Goliah. 
 This was deemed a sufficient number of dogs for seven 
 sledges. At midnight on the 24th they reached the head 
 of the great Mackenzie River, and encamped upon its banks. 
 
 The travelling here became pretty easy. The noble 
 stream, on whose broad and rapid bosom they now floated, 
 was so deep as to permit of their drifting down the current 
 at night, instead of going on shore to encamp as heretofore, 
 so that they made much more rapid progress; travelling, 
 on one occasion, two hundred and fifty miles in forty-eight 
 hours. Numerous camps of Dog-rib Indians were passed 
 on the route, all of whom were exceedingly friendly, and 
 testified the utmost delight at beholding white men. On 
 the 1st of July they arrived at Fort Norman. Here the 
 Goliah was despatched to the north-eastern extremity of 
 Great Bear Lake, where winter quarters were to be estab- 
 lished, in charge of John Ritch, a boat-builder, who took 
 with him John Morquay, Lawrent Cartier, and Francois 
 Framond, besides three Dog-ribs to guide them and com- 
 plete the crew. The exploring party then made their final 
 arrangements, before leaving Fort Norman, in the way of 
 laying in provisions and a few trifles as presents to the 
 Esquimaux on the coast. Three pounds of pemmican was 
 the allowance to each man per day, and it was afterwards 
 found that, although the provisions were used without any 
 restriction, the average daily consumption had been exactly 
 two pounds per man. The crews of the two boats consisted 
 of twelve men, three of whom had accompanied Captain 
 Back in 1834, and one had been with Franklin in 1826. 
 
330 TERRIFIC POWER OF THE ICE. [' 
 
 July 
 1S37. 
 
 At sunset they left the fort, and descended the rapid 
 stream, travelling, as usual, all night. On either hand 
 rose the rocky mountains and the eastern hills, from whose 
 snowy peaks the dazzling sunshine was brilliantly reflected. 
 A few Hare Indians were seen fishing in the eddies along 
 a part of the shore called the Ramparts. As soon as they 
 observed the boats, they embarked in their small canoes, 
 and followed them down the stream till they arrived at 
 Fort Good Hope, where they were welcomed by a son- 
 in-law of Mr. Dease. This establishment was entirely 
 destroyed in June 1836, at the disruption of the ice, " which 
 rushed down with such overwhelming force as to sweep 
 almost completely over the island, though several miles in 
 extent, cutting down the timber like grass before the scythe, 
 and burying the place under two fathoms' water. The 
 terrified residents took to their boat, and escaped, almost 
 miraculously, into a small lake in the centre of the island. 
 There the ruins of the overthrown wood averted the fury 
 of the inundation, and in this place of refuge they remained, 
 with ice tossed up in huge fragments, forming a gigantic 
 wall around them, till the danger was past."* It is difficult 
 to conceive of a position more terrible than that in w r hich 
 these men were placed ; especially when w r e consider that 
 the river in which the island stood was the deep, broad 
 Mackenzie, whose rapid stream was at that time swelled 
 into a roaring torrent by the melting snows of spring, which 
 poured into it from every creek and crevice in its banks, 
 while the masses of ice that rolled impetuously down the 
 swollen current with irresistible force were nearly six feet 
 thick ! 
 
 There are few things in nature more awfully grand than 
 the disruption of the ice near the mouths of the great 
 
 * Simpson's Journal, p. 99. 
 
JJJJ] ESQUIMAUX LADIES. 331 
 
 North American rivers that flow into the arctic seas. The 
 rapidity with which the spring sets in converts the deep 
 snows of winter so quickly into water, that the icy covering 
 of the rivers, notwithstanding its great strength and thick- 
 ness, is unable to withstand the tremendous pressure, and 
 bursts at last with a crash that equals the thunder of the 
 artillery of heaven and earth combined ,* and, carrying all 
 before it, rushes towards the sea, tearing up the banks, 
 sweeping completely over the smaller islands, grinding 
 itself to atoms, and throwing up piles which seem as if they 
 would rival the hills in height ; till, becoming top-heavy, 
 and being pressed upon by the accumulating masses, they 
 fall, with a fearful crash, into the boiling water. Sometimes 
 the mouths of the rivers become choked with the ice, which 
 then remains at rest, in all its broken, jagged, and fantastic 
 shapes, even for two or three days, till the ever-increasing 
 flood again asserts its superiority ; and, once more bursting 
 the frozen barriers, sweeps it with irresistible violence into 
 the ocean. 
 
 After taking some observations, which gave the latitude 
 66° 16' N., they took their final departure for the sea, and 
 soon crossed the arctic circle. They were now approach- 
 ing the Esquimaux country, and as these people have fre- 
 quently proved to be a treacherous race, guns and ammu- 
 nition were given to the men. On passing the mouth of 
 Peel's River, the sun was seen at midnight, elevated more 
 than his own diameter above the horizon. 
 
 On Sunday the 9th, upon turning a sharp point, they 
 came suddenly upon an Esquimaux oomiak, containing 
 four women and a couple of dogs. No sooner did the ladies 
 behold the unwonted apparition of two boats full of white 
 men, than they threw off their coverings, leaped ashore, 
 and fled through the willows with the utmost precipitation. 
 Being under sail, and running before a good breeze, the 
 
3o2 BARTERING WITH THE NATIVES. [l83? 
 
 boats passed on. The same evening they met with an old 
 fellow in his canoe, who told them that it was he who 
 interfered to stop the plunder of Franklin's party by his 
 countrymen at Pillage Point. He was presented with an 
 axe, a knife, and several other articles, besides a share of 
 their repast ; but, notwithstanding the generosity of his 
 entertainers, he was detected concealing a knife and fork in 
 his breast, having previously secreted a tin dish among the 
 willows. The old rascal only laughed on being found out, 
 considering it, apparently, to be an excellent joke ! Im- 
 mediately after parting with this inhabitant of the ice-bound 
 north, the Arctic Ocean burst upon their view, and drew 
 from them three hearty cheers. 
 
 Scarcely had they floated upon the northern sea, when 
 a band of its noisy inhabitants paddled up to the boats in 
 their kayaks, shouting and gesticulating as they came. 
 A few presents were distributed, which, however, instead 
 of satisfying them, only made them more vociferous in their 
 desire to barter. 
 
 " One lively youngster," says Simpson, " attracted our 
 notice by his activity in the noisy barter. He shot his 
 arrows and lance repeatedly on the water to show us their 
 excellence, at the same time shouting ' Neittuke ' and 
 'Took-took' — the seal and rein-deer. On receiving a 
 hatchet and some other things for his weapons, he beat 
 upon his breast, laughed, whooped, and capered in the 
 utmost extravagance of animal joy. He was afterwards 
 employed by several of his less adroit friends to exchange 
 their goods. A fine-looking young man, whose face was 
 not disfigured by the labrets, was remarkable for his 
 modesty, but did not fare the worse on that account. 
 There was only one old man of the party. They appeared 
 to us a stout, well-looking people, with complexions con- 
 siderably fairer than the Indian tribes. Having finished 
 
JjJJ] ESQUIMAUX EEFEACTOEY. 333 
 
 our transactions with them, and satisfied our curiosity, we 
 told the strangers to return to their village ; upon which 
 they gave us to understand that they wished to accompany 
 us to our encampment, and to spend the evening in our 
 society. To this, however, we had a decided objection. 
 Already had they made several unsuccessful attempts to 
 pilfer out of the boats; fresh numbers would soon have 
 joined them, stimulated by the remembrance of their former 
 success; and we had Escape Reef, and a shallow, bad 
 navigation, before us. We therefore peremptorily ordered 
 them back, but to no purpose. Two or three guns were 
 shown, which alarmed them a little. They held up their 
 hands deprecatingly, calling out ' Caw-caw ! ' — but per- 
 sisted in following at a short distance, even after one or 
 two blank shots, till I fired with ball over them ; upon 
 which they instantly ducked their heads, veered round, and 
 after paddling out of reach, halted to hold a consultation — 
 more canoes now appearing in the distance. Thus delivered, 
 we continued our course under sail, with a light, close 
 wind, passing the reefs and shoals about four miles from 
 the land, the weather dark and threatening. At ten o'clock 
 a violent squall took us, and it was with the utmost exertion 
 that we w T ere able to gain the shore at midnight."* 
 
 This part of the coast proved to be a very interesting 
 portion of their voyage — interesting, at least, in so far as 
 dangers and adventures could make it. They had scarcely 
 escaped the clutches of the Esquimaux and weathered the 
 squall, when they reached the edge of the ice, which seemed 
 to defy their further progress ; however, " we twisted and 
 poled our way through it," says Simpson, " the transparent 
 masses exhibiting every variety of fantastic shapes — altars, 
 caverns, turrets, ships, crystal fabrics — which changed as 
 
 * Simpson's Journal, pp. 109-111. 
 
334 DANGERS AND DIFFICULTIES. ElS37- 
 
 we gazed upon them ; and often rolling over or breaking 
 down, with a thundering noise, tossed our little boats on 
 the swell caused by their fall. In the small open spaces, 
 and on the floes, numberless seals were sporting ; one of 
 which would every now and then follow in our wake, rising 
 breast-high to gratify his curiosity, and then giving place 
 to another." In the afternoon the ice blocked up the 
 passage altogether, and they were under the unpleasant 
 necessity of encamping on the bleak shores ; and there, 
 while masticating their pemmican beside the fire, ruminated 
 on the possibility of being detained until the season was 
 far advanced. To add to their annoyance, a band of Esqui- 
 maux found them out. They proved, however, to be much 
 less troublesome than were their predecessors, and took their 
 departure quietly in the evening, after they had twisted 
 their greasy countenances into every variety of contortion, 
 indicative of the quintessence of joy upon receiving a few 
 presents. It is truly amusing to read of the delight of 
 these poor creatures on receiving a gift of the most insig- 
 nificant description. A few beads produce raptures ; a 
 knife or an axe, unspeakable felicity ! 
 
 While detained here, they made long excursions over 
 the green hills, which were clothed with innumerable flowers, 
 whose brilliant tints enriched the scene and furnished 
 specimens for their botanical boxes. Their guns, too, were 
 not silent on these occasions ; and oftentimes the echoes 
 awoke to the unwonted sound, as the water-fowl flew past, 
 unsuspecting, doubtless, the vicinity of blood-thirsty man 
 in these cold, icy regions. A row of marks was observed 
 extending across a point, evidently designed to lead the 
 rein- deer to the edge of a steep bank ; over which, pursued 
 by one party of hunters, they dash into the sea, where they 
 fall an easy prey to another party stationed in canoes below. 
 
 Beset by ice and tossed by storms, the party pursued their 
 
j^ 7 T ] BOATS BESET BY ICE. 335 
 
 toilsome way along the coast. Sometimes they were 
 detained by wind and weather — sometimes proceeded 
 slowly, and at much hazard, through lanes of water in the 
 ice ; often in the cold water all day, occasionally all night, 
 and suffering all the time from severe colds brought on by 
 their being so constantly wet ; but always in good spirits 
 and determined to advance in spite of all difficulties. Indeed, 
 it were vain to have attempted a voyage of discovery in 
 such a land, unless the men composing the party were of 
 that stamp who set difficulties at defiance, and rejoice in 
 the midst of danger. In reading the interesting narratives 
 of such men as Hearne, Mackenzie, and Franklin, we can- 
 not but be struck by the indomitable energy, the untiring 
 perseverance, which characterized not only the leaders, but 
 the men who acted under them, in the face of difficulties 
 apparently insurmountable. 
 
 Dease and Simpson were not less resolute than those 
 who had preceded them in arctic discovery. They pushed 
 energetically through and over all obstructions. On one 
 occasion, while beset by ice, they were tempted by the 
 partial clearing away of the fog, which revealed some lanes 
 of open water, to try once more to push forward ; but hardly 
 had they advanced a few miles, when the wind rose, and 
 blowing the ice together, placed them in great jeopardy. 
 " The boats were repeatedly squeezed," says Simpson, 
 " and mine, which was foremost, was only saved from 
 entire destruction by throwing out everything it contained 
 upon the floating masses. By means of portages made 
 from one fragment to another, the oars forming the perilous 
 bridges, and after repeated risks of boats, men, and baggage 
 being separated by the motion of the ice, we at length 
 succeeded, with infinite labour, in collecting our whole equi- 
 page upon a small floe, which being partially covered with 
 water, formed a sort of wet dock. There wc hauled up our 
 
336 RETURN REEF BEGIN DISCOVERIES. 
 
 Jlt.t 
 
 1837. 
 
 little vessels, and momentarily liable as we were to be 
 overwhelmed by the overturning of our icy support, trusted 
 to a gracious Providence for the event. We were three 
 miles from land ; the fog again settled round us, and the 
 night was very inclement." 
 
 On shore the Esquimaux continued to give them annoy- 
 ance, keeping them constantly on the alert to guard 
 against their unconquerable propensity to appropriate their 
 neighbours' goods. On Sunday, the 23d of July, they 
 reached the Return Reef of Franklin, from which point 
 their discoveries began; and as they encamped on the 
 shore, and looked anxiously out upon the unknown land 
 before them, they offered their humble thanks to the 
 Omnipotent Being whose arm had guarded them so far, 
 and fervently implored a continuance of his gracious pro- 
 tection. Simpson attributes their early arrival at this 
 point to inflexible perseverance in doubling the great icy 
 packs, any of which might have detained them a fortnight 
 on the beach, had they waited for their breaking up. 
 
 Their progress after this was somewhat more rapid. 
 The land was generally very low, consisting of mud and 
 gravel; but it is a curious fact, that not a rock or boulder- 
 stone was seen during the whole journey, except one near 
 an inlet not far from Point Barrow. A glimpse was ob- 
 tained of a magnificent range of mountains, about fifty 
 miles from Point Milne, which they named the Pelly Moun- 
 tains — after the governor of the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 No chronometers had been furnished to the party by the 
 company, but fortunately they obtained an excellent watch 
 from one of the chief factors in the country, which answered 
 their purpose almost equally well. Running along the 
 coast, and naming the several bays and headlands as they 
 passed, they arrived on the 24th at Point Comfort, so 
 called in consequence of the satisfaction with which they 
 
JV 3 L 7 Y ] WINTRY SUMMER I 337 
 
 partook of a warm supper round a cheerful fire after hav- 
 ing fasted for twenty-five hours ; during which they had 
 run nearly half-way between Return Reef and Point Bar- 
 row. This was ascertained by an observation which a 
 short glimpse of sunshine enabled them to take, and 
 showed the latitude to be 70° 43' N., longitude 152° 14' 
 W., variation 43° 8£' E. 
 
 The country here, between the Pelly Mountains and the 
 shore, consists of plains clothed with a very short grass 
 and moss, the favourite pasture of rein-deer, of which large 
 herds were frequently seen. The immediate coast-line 
 is formed of frozen mud-banks, from ten to fifteen feet 
 high. Several large rivers were passed, and named; and 
 one of these, called after Nicholas Garry, Esq., is one 
 mile wide at its mouth, the banks of which were thickly 
 covered with drift timber, brought down the stream; and, 
 though the tide was full, the water tasted fresh for several 
 miles. 
 
 Notwithstanding that it was the height of summer, the 
 weather was bitterly cold. The spray froze on the oars 
 and rigging, and the earth was impenetrably frozen at the 
 depth of four inches, so that the tent pegs could not be 
 driven home. Yet, even here, a few flowers raised their 
 modest heads; with the frozen earth below, the bleak 
 ocean and the cold icebergs around, and the bitter blasts, 
 laden with the withering frost of these hyperborean climes, 
 sweeping over them, they struggled for existence; their 
 only comfort being an occasional ray of sunshine, which 
 pierced the leaden clouds, and bathed their drooping petals 
 in a cheering glow. Not unlike were they to many tender 
 flowers of the human family, who struggle for a bare exist- 
 ence in this frigid earth of ours, surrounded by the chilling 
 atmosphere of apathy ; swept by the bitter winds of adver- 
 sity, but gladdened sometimes by the Sun of Righteousness, 
 
 Y 
 
338 PEDESTRIAN PARTY SETS OUT. [im. 
 
 whose warm beams, piercing through the surrounding gloom, 
 reminds them that the winter is passing and the summer 
 drawing nigh; that the earth shall yet be bathed in light 
 from pole to pole; that the desert shall rejoice and blossom 
 as the rose. 
 
 Dense fogs delayed the expedition very much during 
 the whole voyage; and, in the middle of one of these, they 
 reached a cape which appeared to be covered over with 
 white tents. These turned out to be the points of a great 
 many icebergs which towered over the land on the northern 
 side of the point, which was named Cape George Simpson, 
 after the resident-governor of the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 It is situated in latitude 70° 59' N., longitude 154° 21' W. 
 The rise of the tide here was ten inches, which, small though 
 it was, enabled them to advance some distance ; but on the 
 31st they found that their progress was so slow, and the 
 ice in such great quantities, that it was resolved to give up 
 the attempt to penetrate farther with the boats, and per- 
 form the remainder of the journey to Point Barrow on foot. 
 For this service Mr. Simpson volunteered, while Mr. Dease 
 agreed to remain with some of the men in charge of the 
 boat. As Point Barrow was now distant about two de- 
 grees of longitude, ten or twelve days were considered 
 sufficient to accomplish the distance and return. Five of 
 the best men of the party were therefore selected for the 
 journey; and at 8 a.m., on the 1st of August, they left the 
 encampment. 
 
 a My little party," says Simpson, " quitted Boat Ex- 
 treme on foot at 8 a.m. Our provisions consisted of 
 pemmican and flour ; besides which each man carried his 
 blanket, spare shoes, gun, and ammunition. A single 
 kettle and a couple of axes sufficed for us all ; and a few 
 trinkets were added for the natives. I carried a sextant 
 and artificial horizon; and one man was charged with a 
 
Aug. 
 
 1837. 
 
 MEET WITH ESQUIMAUX. 339 
 
 canvass-canoe stretched on its wooden frame, which proved 
 not the least important part of our arrangements. The 
 whole amounted to forty or fifty pounds per man. * * * 
 The day was dark and dismal in the extreme; a cutting 
 north wind bearing on its wings a fog that hid every ob- 
 ject at the distance of a hundred yards. We were therefore 
 under the necessity of closely following the coast-line, which 
 much increased the distance and fatigue." 
 
 Slowly and with difficulty they pursued their way, 
 winding out and in with every curvature of the coast, and 
 crossing rivers and streams in their canvass-canoe — the 
 water, through which they often waded, at the freezing 
 point — the ground, on which they slept, hard and damp, 
 and the dark sky their curtain. One evening, as they were 
 slowly pushing their way over the muddy shore, the land 
 turned off to the eastward of south, and a boundless inlet 
 lay before them. At the same moment, to their inexpres- 
 sible joy, their eyes fell upon four Esquimaux tents, round 
 which the natives were moving ; but no sooner did they 
 observe the white men approaching them, than they rushed 
 incontinently into their canoes, and shoved out from the 
 shore. A few conciliatory words, however, soon brought 
 them back. They were chiefly women and children, the 
 men being out hunting. 
 
 From a sketch made by one of the most intelligent 
 females, Mr. Simpson concluded that Point Barrow lay on 
 the other side of the inlet; so, borrowing from the Esqui- 
 maux one of their oomiaks, or women's boats, they em- 
 barked in it and rowed out to sea. No sooner had they 
 done so, than the east wind rose and brought back the fog, 
 obliging them to direct their course by compass. The 
 waves ran high, but the light boat surmounted them with 
 wonderful buoyancy. On the opposite shore they en- 
 camped, and spent the night under the oomiak, sleeping 
 
340 REACH POINT BARROW. [^ 
 
 on ground which was frozen to within two inches of the 
 surface. The inlet was named after Mr. Dease. 
 
 On the morning of the 4th August, about one o'clock, 
 they reached Elson Bay. The sun, which had shone but 
 little upon them during the greater part of their journey, 
 now broke forth in full splendour, and revealed to the 
 delighted gaze of Mr. Simpson and his men, Point Barrow, 
 stretching out to the northward. The goal that was to 
 crown the enterprise was nearly won. Step by step the 
 way had been traced between Return Reef and Elson Bay, 
 and a few hours more would complete the survey. 
 
 "We had now only to pass Elson Bay," says Simpson, 
 " which is for the most part shallow. It was covered with 
 a tough coat of young ice, through which we broke a 
 passage, and then forced our way amid a heavy pack, 
 nearly half a mile broad, that rested upon the shore. On 
 reaching it, and seeing the ocean spreading far and wide 
 to the south-west, we unfurled our flag, and, with three 
 enthusiastic cheers, took possession of our discoveries in 
 his Majesty's name." 
 
 The first object that met their gaze here was an immense 
 Esquimaux cemetery, where great numbers of dead bodies, 
 covered with the seal-skin dresses which had clothed them 
 when alive, lay exposed to the voracity of dogs and wild 
 animals. So fresh were many of them, that the party were 
 alarmed, lest the cholera or some other dire disease was 
 raging among the natives. A village of Esquimaux was 
 also observed not far from this place; and the loud huzzas 
 that greeted the planting of the British standard on their 
 inhospitable shores, brought them out of their tents in a 
 state of great trepidation and amazement. Like their 
 countrymen to the west, they were soon reassured, by 
 Simpson advancing with four of his men and calling out 
 that their visit was a friendly one. One man was left with 
 

 W3?!] RENCONTRE WITH NATIVES. 341 
 
 the canoe to guard it. After a little animated barter, the 
 party returned to the canoe, followed by the whole village; 
 and after the bartering was concluded, and a large supply 
 of seal-skin boots, jackets, &c. obtained, the Esquimaux 
 ladies treated the Avhite men to a dance; in which, however, 
 elegance of motion was not displayed in a very high degree 
 of perfection. 
 
 While they were thus pleasantly occupied, Mr. Simpson 
 took an observation, which placed the Point in 71° 23' 33" 
 north latitude, and 156° 20' 0" west longitude. 
 
 Although the natives seemed friendly, a strict watch was 
 kept upon the things in the canoe ; but, upon going down 
 to embark, the oars were not to be found. They were 
 restored, however, after some trouble, and the party finally 
 left Point Barrow on their return to Boat Extreme ; their 
 only regret being that there was nothing more to discover ! 
 
 On reaching the camp of the Esquimaux who had lent 
 them the oomiak, they re-borrowed it for the purpose of 
 rowing round to Boat Extreme, and engaged four of their 
 men to accompany them, so as to take back the canoe. At 
 Point Tangent, however, they refused to go farther, and 
 determined to remain with several of their friends whom 
 they found encamped there, demanding an axe for the canoe. 
 " I immediately," says Simpson, " gave them one of our 
 axes, together with all the tobacco we had left; and my 
 bowman was in the act of shoving off, when the strangers, 
 nine in number, seized the canoe with the intention of 
 dragging it ashore. On my pointing my gun at them they 
 desisted ; but, quick as thought, they snatched their bows 
 and quivers, expecting to take us by surprise. When, 
 however, they saw the whole crew ready for the combat, 
 they lowered their tone of defiance ; and I remarked with 
 a smile, that, as sometimes happens in more civilized com- 
 munities, the most blustering, turbulent fellow was the first 
 
342 REACH WINTER QUARTERS. [ ^g|£ 
 
 to show the white feather. * * * When the threatened 
 fray was blown over, I explained, as well as I could, to the 
 aggressors, that the visit and intentions of the whites were 
 altogether friendly; but we parted in mutual distrust." 
 
 On the following morning, at five o'clock, the pedestrians 
 rejoined their comrades at Boat Extreme, and the re-united 
 party, turning their boats' heads to the eastward, retraced 
 their route to the Mackenzie. 
 
 Our limits will not permit us to detail their return jour- 
 ney up the Mackenzie to winter quarters at Great Bear 
 Lake, which occupied them during the month of August and 
 the greater part of September. Their progress was as 
 tedious as heretofore ; ice, "wind, rain, and natives combin- 
 ing to interrupt and detain them. On the 28th August 
 they reached Fort Good Hope, where their party was plea- 
 santly increased by the wife, niece, and grand- daughter of 
 Mr. Dease. 
 
 Leaving this post, they proceeded on their way up the 
 rapid Mackenzie, and arrived at Fort Norman, where they 
 received despatches from England, and answered them; 
 after which they proceeded to Great Bear Lake, picking 
 up the batteaux and hunters with their outfit on the way. 
 The whole of this part of the journey was excessively 
 stormy, and everything gave indication of the approach of 
 an arctic winter. The magnificent sheet of water, on whose 
 shores they were to spend so many dreary months, was 
 reached on the 14th September, and presented a black, frown- 
 ing surface, under the influence of a stiff easterly breeze. 
 Several showers of snow fell while they crossed its stormy 
 waves, and proved to be the first white coat of permanent 
 snow that clothed the country till the following spring. 
 
 On the 25th the establishment was reached ; and then it 
 was found that the party which had been sent to build the 
 fort had been delayed so much by ice in the lake, that they 
 
?637-" ] PREPARATIONS FOR THE WINTER. 343 
 
 did not arrive at the appointed wintering ground till the 
 17th of August; consequently, all that presented itself to 
 the gaze of the weary travellers was, a small store, and 
 the skeleton of a dwelling-house ! Thankful, however, to 
 have at last reached the end of their journeying for the 
 present, they hailed its appearance with delight ; and, with 
 feelings of sincere gratitude to their Almighty Protector, 
 named their infant establishment Fort Confidence. It was 
 situated in latitude 66° 53' 36" N., longitude 118° 48' 45'' 
 W. " The situation judiciously chosen for the establish- 
 ment was a wooded point, on the northern side of a deep 
 and narrow strait formed by a large island. It commands 
 a fine view of the lake to the east and west, and the rocks 
 form a natural landing-place for the boats at the very door." 
 Here, then, they prepared to spend the long, long winter, 
 in a small wooden hut, thousands of miles from the haunts 
 of civilized men j provided with but a slender stock of pro- 
 visions, and dependent for food, to a great extent, on the 
 activity and friendship of Indian hunters. Unfortunately, 
 they found on their arrival that most of these poor men were 
 laid up with influenza ; and, so far from being of any assist- 
 ance to them, proved, at least for a long period, to be a 
 burden. " To commence a winter," says Simpson, "within 
 the arctic circle, with a considerable party destitute of pro- 
 visions, and the Indians, upon whom we mainly depended 
 for subsistence, requiring our aid and support, was an alarm- 
 ing condition, which demanded the utmost exertion of our 
 personal resources." Accordingly, Mr. Simpson exchanged 
 his sextant and astronomical instruments for the gun and 
 snow shoes, and personally led the Indians in the chase ; 
 crossing the rugged barren grounds after the rein-deer ; 
 stretching beside the red men at nights by the camp-fire on 
 the snow, without any other protection from the weather 
 than w r as afforded by a slight tent made of skins, and the 
 
344 DEER HUNTING. [ OC 1837.° V ' 
 
 deer- skin that he used as a blanket. He also visited the sick 
 in their encampments, to administer medicine, and cheer 
 them in their distress. During these excursions he was 
 pretty successful in obtaining rein- deer, which were not 
 scarce, although somewhat difficult to approach, owing to 
 their keeping long in the open grounds. " Our tents," 
 says he, " were usually pitched in the last of the stunted 
 straggling woods, whence we issued out at daybreak among 
 the bare snowy hills of the 'barren grounds,' where the 
 deer could be distinguished a great way off, by the contrast 
 of their dun colour with the pure white of the boundless 
 waste. * * * On one occasion I witnessed an extra- 
 ordinary instance of affection in these timid creatures. 
 Having brought down a fine doe at some distance, I was 
 running forward to despatch her with my knife, when a 
 handsome young buck bounded up, and raised his fallen 
 favourite with his antlers. She went a few paces, and 
 fell; again he raised her, and continued wheeling round 
 her, till a second ball — for hunger is ruthless — laid him 
 dead at her side." As the winter advanced, however, they 
 managed, by unremitting perseverance in the chase, to 
 accumulate a sufficient quantity of food to enable them to 
 keep a week's supply always in store. 
 
 The cold, as usual in these climes, was very intense. 
 The lowest point to which the thermometer fell was 60° 
 below zero on the 11th of February. All the streams 
 flowing into Great Bear Lake were frozen to the bottom, 
 and Simpson mentions casting a pistol bullet of quick- 
 silver, when the thermometer stood at 49° below zero, 
 which he fired through an inch plank. From the 17th 
 of October till the 24th April the temperature never rose 
 to the freezing point — a period of six months and a 
 week — the mean temperature for the whole winter being 
 14° below zero. During forty-three days of this dismal 
 
Dec. 
 
 1837. 
 
 DEATH OF A VOYAGEUR. 345 
 
 period the sun did not rise over a small hill which stood in 
 front of the fort. 
 
 The winter packet, in these solitary regions so ardently 
 longed for, and the contents of which are so fervently 
 gloated over, arrived on the 29th December, in charge of a 
 Canadian, whose comrade had perished by the way. They 
 had left Fort Norman in a small canoe, but were soon set 
 fast by ice, and finally abandoned her, and took to their 
 snow shoes. Soon, however, poor Taylor, who was affected 
 with a pulmonary complaint, began to complain of weak- 
 ness ; upon which his friend, Le Sourd, with considerate 
 kindness, carried his provisions and spare clothing. At 
 last he became unable to walk farther, and Le Sourd made 
 a comfortable encampment, in which he tended his dying 
 companion ; and, when he expired, carefully laid his body 
 in a grave, made by thawing the frozen earth with fire. 
 He even placed, with Indian superstition, a valuable gun, 
 that the grateful sufferer had given him, beside the remains 
 of its former owner. After performing this act of kind- 
 ness to his deceased companion, he pursued his solitary way 
 to Fort Confidence. 
 
 During the whole winter divine service was pei-formed 
 on Sabbath, at which all the people regularly attended; and 
 the few books that they had with them were diligently 
 perused, while the monotony of their life was occasionally 
 relieved by the arrival of Indians, sometimes with pro- 
 visions, but oftener for them. Among others, a family 
 arrived, the youngest member of which, a boy scarcely 
 two years old, and still unweaned, walked on snow shoes ! 
 and this precocious piece of copper-coloured humanity not 
 only used the snow shoes from necessity, but rejoiced in 
 them to such an extent that he began to bellow lustily when 
 his mother attempted to take them from him. Towards 
 the end of winter Indians flocked in greater numbers than 
 
346 PLEASURES OF SPRING. [mi. 
 
 ever to the fort, in a state of starvation. One poor, old 
 blind man was hauled there on a sledge, or led -with a 
 string, and sometimes carried by his wife and daughter. 
 
 May — bright, warm May, the month of flowers and glad 
 sunshine — opened upon the dwellers in arctic land, as upon 
 the inhabitants of the sunny south; but it came not in 
 " with flowers." The only flowers to be seen there were 
 those traced by the frost on the window-panes ; while the 
 thermometer stood at zero! The snow-clad earth, the 
 wintry sky, the lurid sun, were still unchanged; but 
 about the beginning of June the genius of the spring began 
 to put forth his power. His warm fingers touched the 
 land, and straightway the snows melted, the rivers flowed, 
 the lakes burst their icy coats, the ducks and geese and 
 all the wild denizens of the marshes began to arrive from 
 the regions of the south ; supplying the hitherto scantily 
 furnished tables of the party, and filling the surrounding 
 air with wild harmony. Smile not, gentle reader, at the 
 idea of harmony in the hoarse cries or the wild cackling 
 of geese or ducks. Hadst thou spent nine long, dreary 
 months in a land of solitude, where no sound broke upon 
 the ear save the howling of the arctic storm, or the sighing 
 of thine own voice, or the hoarse croak of an adventurous 
 raven, the trumpet tones of the Canada goose and the 
 plaintive cry of wild-fowl would sound as music in thine 
 unaccustomed ear! 
 
 It will be remembered that Governor Simpson's instruc- 
 tions to the leaders of the expedition enjoined them to 
 devote their second summer in the north to the exploring 
 of the coast from Franklin's farthest — Point Turnagain — 
 eastward to the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh; or as much 
 farther as they thought proper to advance. Accordingly, 
 on the 6th of June 1838, they started to cross over the 
 land that separated them from the Coppermine River, down 
 
June 
 
 1838. 
 
 BOATS SAILING ON THE ICE. 347 
 
 which they purposed to descend to the sea. During this 
 journey, about one hundred miles of unexplored coast 
 was traced by Mr. Simpson and a party on foot ; the boats 
 being set fast by ice near Point Turnagain. As, however, 
 the greater part of their route on this occasion was ground 
 which had been traversed by former explorers, we shall 
 merely glance at a few of the more interesting events that 
 occurred by the way. 
 
 Leaving Ritch, one of the men, in charge of Fort Con- 
 fidence, they commenced the ascent of Dease River in their 
 two boats, which were manned by four men each — two others 
 having been sent forward some days' journey to watch a 
 quantity of provisions which they were to pick up in pass- 
 ing. The water, in which they had often to walk waist 
 deep, was bitterly cold, and laden with ice, which rose in 
 blue walls on either side of them. Not unfrequently these 
 masses came tumbling down with great violence; and, on 
 one occasion, a ponderous mass of snow fell from the banks 
 so close to the boats as nearly to swamp them. The river 
 was at length safely ascended, and, after making a portage 
 of six miles long, they arrived at the Dismal Lakes. 
 Dismal, indeed, did these lakes seem, covered as they were 
 entirely over with the thick and still unbroken coat of win- 
 ter. Although the rivers break up early in spring, owing 
 to the sudden flush of water caused by the melting snow, 
 the lakes are much longer of delivering themselves from 
 the bondage of winter, as the ice does not give way until 
 thoroughly decayed; but this was well known to the party, 
 and they had provided for emergencies of the kind. Two 
 stout iron-shod sledges were placed under the boats, which 
 were then dragged on the ice ; a rope was fixed to their 
 bows which the crews laid hold of; the sails were set, the 
 colours hoisted, and away they went over the frozen lake 
 at the rate of two miles an hour, to the inexpressible sur- 
 
348 MUSK-OX KILLED. [J™* 
 
 prise of a band of natives, who happened to be in the 
 neighbourhood when they arrived. In this curious way 
 they proceeded till a stream of open water enabled them 
 once more to commit the boats to their native element. 
 
 At the Dismal Lake portage, Mr. Simpson came upon 
 a white wolf's den, where were four fine pups. Without 
 asking their mother's permission, he took possession of them, 
 intending to send them to Fort Confidence by the Indians. 
 Their dam, attracted by their cries, rushed to the rescue, 
 and was shot, while the more cowardly male contented 
 himself with howling all night on a neighbouring emi- 
 nence. 
 
 Deer and musk-oxen were numerous. One of the latter, 
 which was espied by the quick- sighted hunters among the 
 willows, was fired at several times without effect, when he 
 started off in the direction of the boats ; but, stumbling into 
 a deep creek, swam out into the river, where he was 
 wounded in the act of crossing. The animal instantly 
 turned about and endeavoured to climb the bank where 
 they stood, his eyes darting fire, and his nostrils distended 
 with pain and rage; but ere he ascended it many steps, 
 several well-aimed bullets stretched him lifeless on the 
 ground. 
 
 On arriving at the Coppermine River, which they reached 
 on the 20th of June, they found it still frozen over, and 
 were detained a couple of days on its banks, after which a 
 narrow stream opened in the centre of it. Into thi3 they 
 launched, and swept rapidly down the swollen tide. Much 
 difficulty was experienced in avoiding the huge masses 
 of ice, which, having now become thoroughly broken up 
 by the rising of the spring floods, descended with great 
 impetuosity, as if resolved to dispute with them the 
 passage to the sea. " Shortly before noon," says Simpson, 
 " we came in sight of Escape Rapid of Franklin, and a 
 
X83S 5 ] PERILOUS DESCENT OF THE COPPERMINE, 349 
 
 glance at the overhanging cliff's told us that there was no 
 alternative but to run down with full cargo. In an instant 
 we were in the vortex; and, before we were aware, my 
 boat was borne towards an isolated rock, which the boiling 
 surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was 
 no longer possible ; our only chance of safety was to run 
 between it and the lofty eastern cliff. The word was 
 passed, and every breath was hushed. A stream, which 
 dashed down upon us over the brow of the precipice more 
 than a hundred feet in height, mingled with the spray that 
 whirled upwards from the rapid, forming a terrific shower- 
 bath. The pass was about eight feet wide, and the error 
 of a single foot on either side would have been instant 
 destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's consummate skill, 
 the boat shot safely through those jaws of death, an in- 
 voluntary cheer arose." 
 
 After a rough and hazardous journey, they reached the 
 sea- coast at the beginning of July, having been detained 
 five days by ice at the Bloody Fall. Here, however, a 
 gloomy prospect opened upon them. Ice lay in thick 
 masses all along the coast and far out to sea, and they 
 were compelled to wait as patiently as they could for its 
 disruption. When Captain Franklin reached the same 
 spot, twenty days later in the season in 1821, he found a 
 clear sea — so greatly do the seasons vary in these uncertain 
 climes. This unfortunate state of the coast Mr. Simpson 
 attributes to the calmness of the season — rain and tempest 
 being, in his opinion, the most favourable accompaniments 
 of arctic discovery. 
 
 "With the utmost difficulty they reached a small bay on 
 the 9th of August, which they called Boathaven, and which 
 is situated about three miles west of Point Turnagain. 
 Here they were detained till the 19th, and at last, finding 
 that there was no chance of doing more that season with 
 
350 MR. SIMPSON AND PARTY PROCEED ON FOOT. [JgJ 
 
 the boats, Mr. Simpson set off for ten days to the eastward, 
 on foot, accompanied by seven of the men. Each man 
 carried a load weighing about half a hundredweight, which 
 consisted of food, blankets, cooking utensils, a canvass- canoe, 
 tent, &c. ; in short, as Simpson says, their " food, lodging, 
 bedding, arms, and equipage.' 7 The walking proved to be 
 very fatiguing, owing to the softness of the ground in many 
 places, and one or two of the men began to knock up 
 before the termination of the journey. They persevered, 
 however, and succeeded in tracing about a hundred miles 
 of the coast eastward of Point Turnagain. 
 
 The coast was generally of the same low and swampy 
 character, intersected here and there by streams of various 
 sizes. Fortunately the weather continued clear during the 
 whole time, enabling Mr. Simpson to take repeated obser- 
 vations, and lay down the coast very correctly. An exten- 
 sive line of coast, seen to the north, was named after 
 Queen Victoria, and an elevated cape on which they stood 
 was called Cape Alexander, after a brother of the adven- 
 turous discoverer. From this cape, situated in latitude 68° 
 56' N., longitude 106° 40' W., an extensive open sea was 
 seen, rolling its free waves at their feet and beyond the 
 reach of vision to the eastward. On the 25th they reached 
 a small stream, whose waters ran into a bay of such extent, 
 that it was deemed prudent to terminate their journey here 
 for the present, the more especially that their time was 
 expired. The stream was called the Beaufort, and the lati- 
 tude of the place was 68° 43' 39" N., longitude 106° 3' 0" 
 W., and variation 60° 38' 23" E. 
 
 A pillar being erected, the Union Jack hoisted, and the 
 country taken possession of in her Majesty's name, the 
 party then retraced their steps to Boathaven, where they 
 arrived in safety; and, re-embarking in the boats, com- 
 menced the ascent of the Coppermine. The ascent was 
 
1»3& ] WINTER AGAIN AT FORT CONFIDENCE. 351 
 
 found to be very laborious; but, after running many risks 
 and making many hair- breadth escapes, they happily 
 arrived, through the preserving goodness of God, at Fort 
 Confidence, on the 14th of September, having left the boats 
 on the banks of the Coppermine. 
 
 At Fort Confidence they spent the winter of 1838-9 in 
 much the same routine as before. Although much had 
 been accomplished during the summer, it was but a small 
 portion of what they had hoped to achieve; so, having 
 permission from the governor to devote another summer 
 to the same object, they resolved to do so, and made the 
 requisite preparations accordingly. A great accession was 
 made to the expedition towards spring in the person of 
 Ooligbuck, the Esquimaux interpreter who had accompanied 
 Franklin in a former expedition. 
 
 During the winter, starvation again stared them in the 
 face, and the poor natives, who seem to lead a truly miserable 
 life in those inhospitable realms, were constantly throwing 
 themselves for the means of subsistence on the generosity 
 of their white brothers, who could ill afford them such 
 assistance. Towards spring, however, things improved. 
 Deer became more plentiful, and fish were taken in the 
 nets. In June the frost entirely gave way ; the tempera- 
 ture at mid-day was sometimes up to 70° in the shade, 
 causing the snow to melt, the brooks to run, the willows to 
 bud forth, and the birds to sing, or, at least, to pour forth 
 the wild notes and cries which constitute the songs of the 
 tuneless feathered tribes of America. The genial influence 
 of the weather had its effect too upon the lonely, but ever 
 cheerful, party at Fort Confidence. The men, and even 
 the Indians, amused themselves with out-of-door games, of 
 which foot-ball seemed to be the favourite; and Mr. Dease r s 
 violin, oftener than heretofore, sent its thrilling tones 
 through the hearts of the whole party, causing them to 
 
352 FISHING SALMON AT THE BLOODY FALL. [issS 
 
 shake the entire fabric of the fort as they vigorously danced 
 and capered about in the hall. 
 
 On the 15th of June they started on foot for the place 
 where they had left the boats at the Coppermine, with 
 renovated hopes and thankful hearts, resolved to try their 
 fortunes a third time on the Polar Sea. 
 
 Their second descent of the Coppermine was accomplished 
 without much difficulty; but the sea, which they reached 
 on the 24th, was found quite solid. It was therefore 
 resolved that Mr. Simpson should examine Richardson's 
 River, while the rest of the party remained at the Bloody 
 Fall. During their detention at this place, the men amused 
 themselves by angling. Like everything else in these 
 extraordinary regions, this was conducted in a somewhat 
 outlandish manner. The setting- poles, with which they 
 were in the habit of pushing the boats against the roaring 
 torrents, were converted into ponderous fishing-rods ; and 
 with hooks baited with fat meat, they succeeded in luring 
 to their destruction several arctic salmon, in the boiling 
 eddies at the foot of the fall. Throughout the country 
 generally, the fish display a singular indifterence to the 
 clumsiness of the tackle with which they are tempted. 
 River trout are often caught with large cod hooks, converted 
 into flies by means of a duck's feather and a thread of a 
 scarlet worsted belt, the rod being a stout branch of a tree, 
 and the line a bit of coarse twine ! We need scarcely add 
 that the anglers do not play their fish. 
 
 Emerging from the Coppermine on the 3d of July, 
 their first day's progress was only five miles, the first 
 week's but twenty; and it was the 18th ere they reached 
 Cape Barrow. Running betore a fresh breeze off the land, 
 they made Cape Franklin on the 20th, just one month 
 earlier than on the previous summer; and instead of a sea 
 covered with an unbroken sheet of ice, as it was then, they 
 
AjS'l EASTERN SEA DISCOVERED. 353 
 
 1S39 
 
 found an open channel, nearly two miles wide, extending 
 all along the main shore. On the 27th they reached the 
 point where their discoveries had terminated in 1838; 
 and, putting ashore to exhume the portable canoe which 
 had been buried there, entered upon ground till then 
 untrodden by the foot of civilized man. 
 
 From the Minto group of islands, seen by Mr. Simpson 
 the previous season, a view of the coast was obtained. It 
 was bold, rocky, and indented; running far away to the 
 south, and skirted by numerous islands. These latter, from 
 their numbers, continued to perplex them during the greater 
 part of their voyage. As they proceeded, threading their 
 tortuous way among islands and round bays and points, the 
 coast gradually lost its bold character, becoming low and 
 stony; obliging them to ascend every little eminence to 
 prevent their being involved in its intricacies. The weather 
 was often foggy and always variable — one peculiar feature 
 in its variableness being, that it usually turned from bad to 
 worse; but, with bold hearts and strong muscles, they 
 pursued their way, until, on the 1 1 th of August, they pene- 
 trated a strait through which the tide rushed with such 
 force as to leave no longer any room to doubt the neighbour- 
 hood of an open sea leading to the mouth of Back's Great 
 Fish River. From an eminence here Mr. Simpson first 
 beheld this much- desired eastern sea. 
 
 " That glorious sight," says he, " was first beheld by 
 myself from the top of the high limestone islands. 
 The joyful news was soon conveyed to Mr. Dease, who 
 was with the boats at the end of the island, about half a 
 mile off ; and even the most desponding of our people for- 
 got, for the time, the great distance we should have to 
 return to winter quarters." Point Seaforth, the eastern 
 outlet of this remarkable strait, is situated in latitude 
 68° 32' N., longitude 97° 35' W. 
 
354 REACH POINT OGLE. [^ 
 
 At this place they were visited with one of the most 
 terrific thunderstorms they ever experienced. Travelling 
 onwards as rapidly as the weather would allow, they 
 reached Back's Point Ogle on the 13th of August, where, 
 directed by M'Kay, they found the two bags of pemmican, 
 several pounds of chocolate, two canisters of gunpowder, 
 and a box of percussion caps, which had been deposited 
 there by their enterprising predecessor five years before ! 
 The pemmican was alive! and the chocolate rotten; never- 
 theless, enough of it was extracted to produce a kettle-full, 
 wherewith the men celebrated the grand event of the day. 
 
 All the objects for which the expedition was undertaken 
 had now been accomplished; but Messrs. Dease and Simp- 
 son were not quite satisfied. They had determined the 
 northern limits of America to the westward of the Thlew- 
 ee-choh ; but it still remained a question, whether Boothia 
 Felix might not be united to the continent to the east of 
 that river. The men were therefore summoned, and the 
 importance of proceeding some distance farther explained 
 to them, when they agreed to advance without a murmur. 
 
 On the evening of the 16th they crossed over the river's 
 wide mouth. " It was a lovely night," says Simpson. 
 " The fury of the north lay chained in repose. The Harp, 
 the Eagle, the Charioteer, and many other bright constella- 
 tions, gemmed the sky, and sparkled on the waters, while 
 the high Polar Star seemed to crown the glorious vault 
 above us." A six hours' pull brought them to a bluff 
 cape, from which Mr. Simpson, who climbed to its summit, 
 saw the coast turn sharply and decidedly eastward; while 
 round to the north-west stretched a sea free from all ice, 
 and devoid of all land, except what looked like two very 
 distant islands. The point was named Cape Britannia. 
 
 The wind now began to prove adverse, and on the 19th 
 they were almost tempted to give up farther advance as 
 
iJg'] RESOLVE TO RETURN. 355 
 
 hopeless, when the land suddenly turned more towards the 
 north-east; so, hoisting their sail, they made a fine run 
 of thirty miles, and landed at 4 p.m. to breakfast, on a 
 cape which was named Cape Selkirk. They then advanced 
 six miles farther; but after being buffeted by wind and 
 waves, and making very little progress, they were com- 
 pelled to take shelter in a small river, which they named, 
 after their boats, the Castor and Pollux River. 
 
 It now became quite evident that the time was come for 
 commencing their return to the distant Coppermine; so 
 orders were given to the men to erect a pillar in com- 
 memoration of their visit, while the two leaders walked to 
 an eminence three miles off, whence they saw the coast 
 trending off more to the right. Far without lay several 
 lofty islands, and in the north-east, more distant still, 
 appeared some high blue land, which was designated Cape 
 Sir John Ross, and was supposed to be the southern shores 
 of Boothia. The latitude of their farthest encampment is 
 68° 28' 23" N., longitude 94° 14' W., variation 16° 20' 
 W. They turned their faces once more homewards on 
 the 21st of August. 
 
 The stormy winds, which obstinately resisted their pro- 
 gress to the eastward, lent wings to their retreat. Point 
 after point, bay after bay, were rapidly passed and left 
 behind. Crossing over to Victoria Land, they explored a 
 hundred miles of its coast, denominating the eastern and 
 western visible extremes respectively Point Back and 
 Point Parry; then, recrossing the strait and continuing 
 their voyage along the main, they finally reached the 
 mouth of the Coppermine on the 16th of September, in a 
 bitter frost, and the surrounding country covered with 
 snow, after by far the longest voyage ever performed in 
 boats on the Polar Sea, the distance they had gone being 
 not less than 1408 geographical, or 1631 statute miles. 
 
356 GRIZZLY EEAR. [^gj 
 
 The Coppermine was ascended in safety, the only thing 
 of an unusual kind that they saw being a huge grizzly 
 bear, to which Mr. Dease and Mr. Simpson gave chase, 
 and fired several shots without effect. The monster's foot- 
 prints in the snow measured fifteen inches by six ! 
 
 This is the most formidable animal of the American 
 continent. When full-grown, it equals in size the large 
 polar bears, and is not only more active, but of a fiercer 
 and more vindictive disposition. Its strength is so great 
 that it will drag the carcass of a buffalo, weighing a thou- 
 sand pounds. The following story of its prowess is well 
 authenticated : — A party of voyageurs had been occupied 
 all day in tracking a canoe up the Saskatchewan, and had 
 seated themselves round a fire in the evening. They were 
 engaged in the agreeable task of preparing their supper, 
 when a huge grizzly bear sprang over the canoe, which 
 they had tilted behind them, and seizing one of the party 
 by the shoulder, carried him off. The remainder fled in 
 terror, with the sole exception of a metif named Bourasso, 
 who, grasping his gun, followed the bear, as it was delibe- 
 rately retreating with the man in its mouth. He called out 
 to his unfortunate comrade that he was afraid of hitting him 
 if he fired at the bear ; but the latter entreated him to fire 
 instantly, because the animal was squeezing him to death. 
 On this he took a steady aim, and lodged a ball in the 
 body of the brute, which immediately dropped its original 
 prey, that it might revenge itself upon Bourasso. He 
 escaped, however, and the bear soon after retreated into a 
 thicket, where they were too happy to let him lie unmo- 
 lested. The rescued man had his arm fractured, and was 
 otherwise severely bitten, but he ultimately recovered. 
 
 Dr. Richardson tells us that a man is now living, in the 
 vicinity of Edmonton House, who was attacked by a grizzly 
 bear, which suddenly sprang out of a thicket, and scalped 
 
lm] ANECDOTES OF THE GRIZZLY BEAR. 357 
 
 him by a single scratch of his tremendous claws, laying 
 bare the skull, and pulling down the skin of the forehead 
 quite over his eyes. Assistance being at hand, the beast 
 was driven off; but the unfortunate man, although his life 
 was saved, never recovered his sight after the event. 
 
 Mr. Drummond, who made a botanical trip to the Rocky 
 Mountains, frequently met with these disagreeable com- 
 panions. When he happened unintentionally to come 
 suddenly upon them, they would rear themselves upright 
 on their hind legs, and utter a loud, harsh, and rapid 
 breathing. From what is known of the habits of these 
 animals, it is certain that, had he lost his presence of 
 mind and attempted to flee, he would have been pursued,, 
 overtaken, and torn to pieces. But the bold Forfar-man 
 stood his ground to an inch, and beating a huge botanical 
 box, made of tin, his discordant music so astounded the 
 grizzly monsters, that, after eyeing the Scottish Orpheus 
 for a few minutes, they generally wheeled to the right- 
 about, and galloped away. On one occasion he observed 
 a male caressing a female, and soon after the couple came 
 towards him, but whether by accident or design, he was 
 uncertain. However, he thought there was no great harm 
 in climbing a tree ; and as the female drew near, he very 
 ungallantly fired at and mortally wounded her. As usual 
 in such cases, she uttered some loud screams, which threw 
 the male into a most furious rage, and he reared himself 
 up against the trunk of the tree on which Mr. Drummond 
 was perched. Fortunately, it is so ordained that grizzly 
 bears either can't or won't climb; and the female in the 
 meantime having retired to a short distance, lay down, 
 while the male, following to condole with her, was also 
 shot. 
 
 Winter had fairly set in ere the expedition reached the 
 head of the Coppermine, which they did on the 20th, and 
 
358 FORT CONFIDENCE CONSIGNED TO DESTRUCTION. [%H, 
 
 then proceeded across the country on foot to Fort Con- 
 fidence, where they arrived in safety on the 24th of Sep- 
 tember, just as the shades of night were casting their sable 
 mantle over the wintry scene. 
 
 Here, however, they were not to rest. The little fort 
 in which they had, through the goodness of God, success- 
 fully struggled through so many dreary months, was to 
 be abandoned; and the scene that ensued soon after their 
 arrival was at once amusing and sad. " I despair," says 
 Simpson, " of conveying an idea of the scene enacted by the 
 natives during the two following days, which were occu- 
 pied in settling with them, and packing up our own goods. 
 They hurried in from all quarters ; and as everybody 
 wanted everything, the distribution of our commodities was 
 rather a difficult problem. As for the clamour of young 
 and old, Bedlam itself cannot match the ordeal we under- 
 went. * * * Our spare guns, kettles, ironwork, 
 dogs, and sledges, were given to the most deserving. All 
 were furnished with ammunition, for hunting their way to 
 the regular trading-posts on the Mackenzie. Our old 
 clothes graced the persons of our young fellow-travellers; 
 and last, not least, the whole assemblage was abundantly 
 fed. In the afternoon of the 26th this noisy scene was 
 brought to a close, and we took a last leave of Fort Con- 
 fidence. Larocque Maccaconce, and some of the old men 
 and youths who had been most about us, appeared afftcted 
 as we shook hands with them ; but all the rest were too 
 busily engaged in rifling our forlorn abode to notice our 
 departure. Even before finally quitting the house, the 
 parchment windows were cut out by the women and chil- 
 dren; the legs of the few miserable chairs and tables were 
 torn off; and by the time we were out of sight, I verily 
 believe that not a single nail remained undrawn, or a scrap 
 of any sort unappropriated, on the premises." 
 
Feb. 
 
 1840. 
 
 MR. SIMPSON RETURNS TO RED RIVER. 359 
 
 In concluding this sketch of Messrs. Dease and Simp- 
 son's expedition, we think it right to give a brief account 
 of the early and violent death of the spirited young man 
 to whose energy and perseverance its successful termination 
 must be partly attributed. 
 
 After leaving Fort Confidence, Mr. Simpson proceeded 
 to Fort Simpson, on the Mackenzie, and thence, over the 
 country on foot, to Ked River settlement, at which place 
 he arrived on the 2d February 1840, having traversed 
 1910 miles on foot in sixty-one days. 
 
 At Great Slave Lake, Mr. Simpson drew up a plan for 
 an expedition to complete the survey of the coast between 
 the extreme east of the discoveries of 1839, and the Straits 
 of the Fury and Hecla, which he transmitted to the direc- 
 tors of the Hudson's Bay Company in London; at the 
 same time offering to assume the command of the expedi- 
 tion without a moment's respite. At Red River he anxi- 
 ously waited for letters in reply, which would authorize 
 him to undertake it ; but in consequence of his despatches 
 not having reached England in time to be acknowledged 
 by the spring canoes, he received no communication 
 from the directors. Deeply disappointed at this, and un- 
 willing to remain idly at Red River for a year until his 
 offer could be accepted, he resolved to proceed to Eng- 
 land. 
 
 With this end in view, he left Red River settlement 
 on the 6th of June, intending to cross the prairies to 
 St. Peter's, on the Mississippi, and proceed thence to Eng- 
 land. 
 
 On leaving the settlement he was accompanied by a 
 party of settlers and half breeds ; but becoming impatient 
 of their slow movements, he started ahead with four men. 
 He travelled with great rapidity, as was learned from a 
 chart, which was found with his other papers after his 
 
360 MELANCHOLY DEATH OF MR. THOMAS SIMPSON. [ jJJJ 
 
 death; on which their day's journey on the 11th of June 
 was traced as forty- seven miles in a straight line. 
 
 " Subsequent to that date," writes Mr. Alexander Simp- 
 son in his brief memoir of his brother's life, " every circum- 
 stance is involved in mystery. All that can be ascertained 
 with certainty is, that, on the afternoon of the 13 th or 
 14th of June, Mr. Simpson shot two of his companions ; 
 that the other two mounted their horses and rejoined the 
 larger party, a part of which went to the encampment 
 where Mr. Simpson was alone, on the next morning ; and 
 that Mr. Simpson's death then took place. Whether he 
 shot these men in self-defence, and was subsequently put 
 to death by their companions ; or whether the severe stretch 
 to which his faculties had been subjected for several years 
 brought on a temporary hallucination of mind, under the 
 influence of which the melancholy tragedy took place, is 
 known only to God and to the surviving actors in that 
 tragedy." 
 
 Many different opinions exist on this point ; some think- 
 ing that Mr. Simpson committed suicide, while others 
 maintain that he must have been murdered by his half- 
 breed companions. The latter opinion is more generally 
 received, as the half-breeds are a fierce, vindictive race, 
 and Mr. Simpson had incurred their animosity, some years 
 before, by inflicting a chastisement on one of them who 
 grossly insulted him. But whether by his own hand, or 
 that of an assassin, the young traveller's short but brilliant 
 career terminated thus violently in the wilderness, and hi3 
 body now rests in the distant settlement on the borders of 
 the wide and lonely prairie. 
 
1846.] NEW EXPEDITION. 361 
 
 CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 Recent Discoveries. 
 Expedition of Dr. Eae, 1846-7. 
 
 The stormy shores of the Arctic Sea had now been surveyed 
 from Behring's Straits, on the west, to Castor and Pollux 
 River (the farthest point reached by Dease and Simpson), 
 and, from the shores of Hudson's Bay, on the east, to the 
 Straits of the Fury and Hecla. Betwixt these two points 
 a terra incognita of between two and three hundred miles 
 existed, regarding which there w r as much variance of 
 opinion among scientific men; some asserting that, from 
 the nature of things, Boothia Felix must be a peninsula — 
 others holding as confidently that it must needs be an 
 island. To set this question at rest — which, by the way, 
 involved the existence or non-existence of the north-west 
 passage, at least in that direction — the Hudson's Bay 
 Company resolved to fit out another expedition, which 
 should proceed to Repulse Bay, and from that point start 
 overland to survey the large bay which, it was supposed, 
 separated the two extreme points of discovery. 
 
 Hitherto the expeditions which had been despatched to 
 the polar seas by land, had carried on their operations 
 chiefly during summer ; depending upon supplies of pemmi- 
 can and flour for their maintenance during the long winter 
 of the arctic regions, should all other resources in the shape 
 of fish and game fail them. The expedition now sent out, 
 however, was conducted on quite a different principle. 
 Spring, or, more correctly speaking, the latter end of win- 
 ter, was the season during which its operations were to be 
 carried out. Only four months' provisions were taken, 
 
362 OPINION REGARDING THE EXPEDITION. [1846. 
 
 although it was anticipated that the objects for which it 
 was sent could not be accomplished in less than eighteen 
 months, if not longer. The net and the gun were to be 
 the only hope of the little band of adventurers who thus 
 ventured to penetrate into a land so barren, and of whose 
 resources so little was known, that it was feared, even by 
 those who were long accustomed to a desert life, that the 
 whole party would infallibly starve ; and all the more was 
 this thought probable, when it was remembered that little 
 or no fuel could be obtained there, with the exception of a 
 small quantity of oil from the Esquimaux. Starve, how- 
 ever, they did not. Under the command of Dr. Rae, a 
 man of practical experience in arctic life, of scientific attain- 
 ments, and indomitable resolution, the expedition was 
 brought back in safety, after a long sojourn in these lands 
 of ice and darkness, where they suffered privations, and 
 encountered dangers out of which the Father of light and 
 love alone could have delivered them. 
 
 In the following pages we shall follow the footsteps of 
 Dr. Rae and his hardy associates, as they pursue their 
 devious and interesting journey— ^interesting, whether we 
 view it in connection with the long-disputed passage which 
 has tried the metal and cost the lives of so many of Britain's 
 sons during the last two hundred years, or look at it in the 
 light of a daring and novel incursion into the regions of 
 the far north. 
 
 The instructions given to him by Sir George Simpson, 
 directed Dr. Rae to proceed to Fort Churchill, the mosl 
 northerly establishment of the company on Hudson's Bay, 
 with two boats and twelve men, and to proceed thence to 
 the scene of his labours; devoting as much time as he 
 could, without occasioning serious delay, to ascertaining 
 the latitudes and longitudes of the most remarkable points 
 within the range of his operations, noting the incidents 
 
1846.] INSTRUCTIONS TO DR. RAE. 363 
 
 of the journey, and, generally, to registering the various 
 peculiarities and phenomena of the regions he was about to 
 explore. Having achieved the object of his journey, he 
 was to return, according to his own discretion, either by 
 his original course to Churchill, or by Back's Great Fish 
 River, to Great Slave Lake. " In conclusion," writes Sir 
 George, " let me assure you that we look confidently to 
 you for the solution of what may be deemed the final pro- 
 blem in the geography of the northern hemisphere. The 
 eyes of all who take an interest in the subject are fixed on 
 the Hudson's Bay Company ; from us the world expects 
 the final settlement of the question that has occupied the 
 attention of our country for two hundred years ; and your 
 safe and triumphant return, which may God in His mercy 
 grant, will, I trust, speedily compensate the Hudson's Bay 
 Company for its repeated sacrifices and its protracted 
 anxieties."* 
 
 Rae was just the man for such an expedition. He was 
 surgeon, astronomer, steersman, and leader to the party ; 
 had spent several years in the service of the company ; 
 and added to his other attainments the by no means insig- 
 nificant accomplishments of a first-rate snow-shoe walker 
 and a dead shot ! 
 
 On the 8th of October Dr. Rae landed at York Factory, 
 on the shores of Hudson's Bay, after a canoe journey of 
 about two months' duration, through the interior from 
 Canada. Here he took up his residence for the winter, 
 purposing to sail for Fort Churchill in the following spring, 
 so soon as the icy bands, which lock up the waters there 
 for nearly eight months, should give way. The two boats 
 were fine-looking, strong, clinker-built craft, twenty-two 
 feet long by seven feet six inches broad, each capable of 
 
 * Eae's Expedition, p. 17. 
 
o64 PREPARATIONS AND DEPARTURE. [Jj^g 
 
 carrying between fifty and sixty pieces of goods, of 90 lbs. 
 weight per piece. They were each rigged with two lug 
 sails, to which jibs were afterwards added, and were named 
 the "North Pole" and the "Magnet." Besides the usual 
 amount of sails, oars, cordage, and ballast, the boats were 
 laden with twenty bags of pemmican, two bags of grease, 
 twenty-five bags of flour, and four gallons of alcohol for 
 fuel, with a good supply of sugar, chocolate, and tea, four 
 gallons of brandy, and two gallons of port wine ; amount- 
 ing in all to little more than four months' provisions at 
 full allowance. To these were added a small sheet-iron 
 stove for each boat, a set of sheet-iron lamps for burning 
 oil after the fashion of the Esquimaux; several small 
 kettles, called conjurers, having a little basin and per- 
 forated tin stand for burning alcohol, a seine net, and 
 four small window frames, with double panes of glass in 
 each. This method of glazing windows, besides rendering 
 the room to which they are attached warmer, prevents 
 the heated air within from congealing on the glass, and so 
 rendering it opaque. Windows glazed with single panes 
 soon become covered with moisture, which freezes the instant 
 it settles upon the cold glass, and accumulates frequently 
 to the thickness of an inch. An oiled canvass canoe was 
 also taken, and one of Halkett's portable air boats, which 
 latter was large enough to carry three persons. 
 
 About the beginning of May 1846, the increasing power 
 of the sun began to work a rapid change over the whole 
 land, which, since October, had lain in that cold, dead, and 
 seemingly unconquerable stillness, of which none but arctic 
 travellers can form an adequate conception. Gradually at 
 first, and as if unwillingly, the ice gave way before the 
 genial beams of the spring sun, till at last it melted away 
 and left the released earth and streams to rejoice in their 
 deliverance; reminding one forcibly of the manner in 
 
}^6.] BEGINNING OF DIFFICULTIES. 365 
 
 which the Sun of Righteousness, by the all-powerful influ- 
 ence of His bright beams of forbearance and protracted 
 love, thaws and sets free the icy heart and frozen soul of 
 unregenerate man. 
 
 On the 5th of May, Hayes River began to break up, but it 
 was not until the 12th of June that the coast was sufficiently 
 free from ice to permit the exploring party to commence 
 their voyage. On that day, however, it was reported 
 practicable, and on the 13th, after saying farewell to their 
 friends at York Factory, they set sail in the " North Pole" 
 and " Magnet," along the shores of Hudson's Bay. 
 
 The crews of the two boats consisted of twelve men, six 
 to each boat ; but small though the party was, it embraced 
 no less than six different races of men — Orkneymen, Can- 
 adians, Indians, half-breeds, Zetlanders, and Highlanders ; 
 and to these was afterwards added an Esquimaux interpreter, 
 who rejoiced in the name of Ooligbuck, and his son, who 
 rejoiced in an incurable habit of thieving, which afterwards 
 proved to be no small annoyance to the party. A foretaste 
 of the difficulties which this strangely assorted crew were 
 afterwards to experience, was afforded them on the day of 
 their departure, in the shape of a stiff head wind. They 
 had scarcely proceeded a mile down the river in the direction 
 of the sea, and the smoke of the guns, with which they had 
 been saluted at departure, was still floating in the air, when 
 the wind chopped round directly in their teeth and blew 
 a gale. Dr. Rae, however, was much too sanguine to think 
 of turning back after having fairly started; he therefore 
 ordered the sails to be close reefed, and the boats' heads 
 turned out to sea, despite the ugly cross sea which was 
 occasioned by the meeting currents of the river and tide. 
 A good deal of water was shipped, but he succeeded in 
 making good his point; cleared the shallows that jutted 
 out from the end of the Point of Marsh ; and after a good 
 
366 SLEEPING IN BOATS AT NIGHT. [^J 
 
 deal of difficulty in forcing a passage through the ice which 
 drove along the coast with the current, finally anchored for 
 the night near Sam's Creek, to which place the lonely in- 
 habitants of York Factory send a party every spring and 
 autumn to shoot and salt geese for their winter consumption. 
 Here being unable to land, they slept in the boats. " The 
 night," says Rae, " was beautiful, and as all my men had 
 gone to sleep, nothing interrupted the stillness around but 
 the occasional blowing of a white whale, the rather musical 
 note of the * caca wee' (long-tailed duck), or the harsh 
 scream of the great northern diver. Yet I could not close 
 my eyes. Nor was this wakefulness caused by want of 
 comfort in my bed, which I must own was none of the 
 most inviting, as it consisted of a number of hard packed 
 bags of flour, over which a blanket was spread, so that I 
 had to accommodate myself the best way I could to the 
 inequalities of the surface. To a man who had slept 
 soundly in all sorts of places, on the top of a round log in 
 the middle of a swamp, as well as on the wet shingle 
 beach, such a bed was no hardship; but thoughts now 
 pressed upon me which during the bustle and occupation 
 of preparation had no time to intrude. I could not conceal 
 from myself that many of my brother officers, men of great 
 experience in the Indian country, were of opinion that we 
 ran much risk of starving ; little was known of the resources 
 of that part of the country to which we were bound ; and 
 all agreed that there was little chance of procuring fuel, 
 unless some oil could be obtained from the natives. Yet 
 the novelty of our route and of our intended mode of opera- 
 tions had a strong charm for me, and gave me an excite- 
 ment which I could not otherwise have felt."* 
 
 The shores of Hudson's Bay between York Factory and 
 
 * Kae's Expedition, pp. 7-8. 
 
^ 6 E ] KILLING WHITE WHALES. 367 
 
 Fort Churchill are low, flat, and uninteresting. Not a single 
 rock is to be seen in all its dreary length, though here and 
 there boulder- stones, of various sizes, were observed. A 
 short distance from the sea, were numerous small lakes 
 and swamps, which were filled with ducks, geese, and other 
 water -fowl, whose wild cries served in some degree to break 
 the monotony of the way, while their fat little bodies helped 
 nightly to fill the kettles, and tickle the palates of the 
 miscellaneous crew that invaded their usually undisturbed 
 domain. Ice, with its unfailing attendant, fog, floated in 
 abundance on the ocean, now compelling them to pursue a 
 devious track among the open lanes of water ; then causing 
 them to bore slowly through its closely packed but broken 
 masses ; anon, vanishing as if by magic, leaving them in 
 an open sea, and oftentimes interrupting their progress 
 altogether. Notwithstanding these difficulties, however, 
 they pursued their route along the coast, and landed at 
 Churchill on the 27th of June. 
 
 Here they remained a few days repairing the boats and 
 examining the provisions, this being the last establishment 
 they would meet with. Some tobacco and salt, being 
 looked upon as unnecessary luxuries, were exchanged for 
 additional supplies of pemmican and flour, and everything 
 was finally arranged for the voyage. 
 
 The people at the fort were engaged in killing white 
 whales when they arrived. These fish abound in the polar 
 seas, and are often seen rolling their unwieldy forms up the 
 rivers that flow into Hudson's Bay. They are used by the 
 fur-traders as food for the dogs, the house in which their 
 flesh is kept being called the blubber-house ; to find which 
 house, especially in summer, no other direction would be 
 necessary than the trite one of " follow your nose ! " The 
 method of killing the white whale is very simple. A boat, 
 having a harpooner both at bow and stern, sails oat among 
 
368 LEAVE CHURCHILL THE LAST ESTABLISHMENT. [i](J| 
 
 the shoal, and being painted white, it does not alarm them. 
 When close enough, the harpoons are thrown, and the 
 whales dive under the water. They do not, however, run 
 any great distance in one direction, but dart about much in 
 the way that a trout does when hooked. Indians employ 
 another method of killing them. They erect a stage in the 
 water, as far from shore as they can, and sit perched upon 
 this, gun in hand, till the whales pass, when they shoot 
 them with ball, and afterwards fish up their carcasses in 
 their canoes. 
 
 Having taken on board Ooligbuck, the Esquimaux, and 
 his son, and said farewell to the inhabitants of Churchill — 
 the last civilized beings whom they were to see for a year 
 and a half — Dr. Eae and his men started on their voyage 
 of discovery on the 5th of July 1846. The weather was 
 fine, and the coast, fortunately, free from ice, so that they 
 sailed cheerily along under the influence of a light breeze 
 from the N.N.E. The men were in excellent health and 
 spirits ; and, like most men of daring, adventurous spirits, 
 rejoiced at the prospect of facing and overcoming difficulties 
 and dangers. The general brightness and liveliness of 
 the whole scene at their departure had doubtless some 
 influence in producing the exuberance of joy with which 
 they left the last settlement of the white man. The broad 
 expanse of Hudson's Bay lay stretched out before them ; 
 its calm surface flickering in the beams of a bright sun, 
 and enlivened with the wild cry and splash of water-fowl, 
 as they bathed their plumage, or pursued each other over 
 the surface, and down into the blue depths of the ocean. 
 Up in the clear sky flocks of gulls sailed calmly on ap- 
 parently motionless wings, giving to the beholders a strange, 
 irresistible desire to be up there too, disporting in the 
 atmospheric ocean ; while from among the happy revellers 
 every now and then, would dart one or two of their number, 
 
184&] BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE OF THE SEA. 369 
 
 and descending, with collapsed wings, from their giddy 
 height, plunge into the water in pursuit of unsuspecting 
 fish. The peculiar characteristics of arctic scenery also 
 tended to heighten the wild beauty and interest of the 
 scene. Far away in the distance might be seen the witite 
 pinnacles of a gigantic iceberg — huge, firm, and solid in 
 appearance, like the snow-clad summits of the everlasting 
 hills, but in reality brittle and unstable, liable to drift and 
 change with every ray of sunshine, and every breath of 
 wind, and ready, without a moment's warning, to lose its 
 balance, and, like the airy castles erected in the mind of 
 man, bury its towering heights and fair battlements in the 
 unsteady gulf from which it rose. White whales rolled 
 their uncouth forms about, and ruffled the otherwise calm 
 bosom of the sea, coming frequently within a few yards of 
 the boats ; while here and there the bullet head of a seal 
 bobbed suddenly up to the surface, its grave countenance 
 and wide goggle eyes seeming to inquire what new wonders 
 of creation had come to invade the Arctic Sea — already 
 sufficiently well peopled with hyperborean monstrosities ! 
 
 During the day they passed a river whose name was in 
 keeping with the wild land through which it flows, being 
 called the Pauk-a-thau-kis-cow. The shore was flat and 
 low, obliging them to keep six miles out to sea in order to 
 avoid being stranded at the ebb tide; but this mattered little 
 in such fine weather. As the night was clear, and the 
 wind fair, they continued their course without interruption, 
 till the forenoon of next day, when it was found that they 
 had made a run of ninety-five miles. Here they were 
 overtaken by three Esquimaux in their kayaks. These 
 little canoes were propelled by their vigorous owners so 
 swiftly, that they overtook, and easily kept up with the 
 boats, while sailing at the rate of four miles an hour. The 
 kayak " is about twelve feet in length, and two feet in 
 2 a 
 
370 ESQUIMAUX CANOES. [JJJJ 
 
 breadth, tapering off from the centre to the bow and stern, 
 almost to a mere point. The frame is of wood, covered 
 with seal- skin, having an aperture in the centre, which 
 barely admits of the stowage of the nether man. These 
 canoes are calculated for the accommodation of one person 
 only; yet it is possible for a passenger to embark upon 
 them, if he can submit to the inconvenience and risk of 
 lying at full length without stirring hand or foot, as the 
 least motion would upset the canoe. Instances, however, 
 have been known of persons being conveyed hundreds of 
 miles in this manner. The kayaks are used solely for 
 hunting ; and, by means of the double paddle, are propelled 
 through the water with the velocity of the dolphin. No 
 land animal can possibly escape when seen in the water ; 
 the least exertion is sufficient to keep up with the rein- deer 
 when swimming at its utmost speed."* 
 
 Some Esquimaux have the power of righting themselves 
 after being upset, while others are utterly helpless, and 
 would infallibly be drowned, were no assistance at hand. 
 Such assistance, however, is seldom wanting, as accidents 
 of the kind rarely occur except in the excitement of the 
 chase, when a number of comrades are always present, 
 ready to replace the luckless diver once more on his centre 
 of gravity. The oomidk, or women's boat, is much clumsier, 
 slower, and safer, more in the form of a boat than a canoe, 
 and is used to convey the female portion of the community 
 and their families from one part of the coast to another, 
 being propelled by the women, who use small paddles for 
 the purpose. 
 
 Dr. Rae took advantage of these Esquimaux going to 
 Churchill, to write a few lines to Sir George Simpson. 
 
 In the afternoon the wind increased, and the water began 
 
 * M'Lean's Hudson's Bay Territory, vol. ii. pp. 49, 50. 
 
JjJJ] CHANGEABLE WEATHER. 371 
 
 to grow shallow. The boats' heads were instantly put out to 
 sea, but the ebb tide proved too quick for them, and they 
 grounded about ten miles from the shore. This was all the 
 more aggravating that the wind was fair. There was 
 nothing for it, however, but patience ; which virtue they 
 exercised as they best could until two o'clock the next 
 morning, when the rising tide once more set them free. 
 How strikingly, in these regions, the power and helpless- 
 ness of man is brought under our observation ! An inch 
 more of the mighty deep, and he roams at will over its wide 
 expanse ; an inch less, and he lies a helpless log upon its 
 surface ! A clear sea and a favouring breeze, and his huge 
 ship, obedient to every impulse of his will, ploughs bravely 
 over the waves, dashing the spray from her swelling bows, 
 and seeming as if nothing could check or interrupt her 
 course. A slight current sweeps the icy mountains of the 
 polar seas down upon her course, with all the slow, resist- 
 less majesty and power that marks the operations of the 
 works of God — and his sturdy bark is crushed, carried 
 hither and thither on its icy cradle, a helpless hulk, at the 
 mercy of the wind and sea. 
 
 A good deal of rough weather was experienced as they 
 coasted along shore, and Dr. Rae had cause to congratulate 
 himself on having taken Orkneymen as part of his crews ; 
 for the Indians, half-breeds, and Canadians, albeit inferior 
 to none as boatmen in river, lake, or rapid, are the veriest 
 children when fairly launched on the billows of the salt sea. 
 " The boats," says Rae, " fully realized the good opinion 
 we had of them ; but being so deeply laden, the sea broke 
 frequently over them, and kept us continually baling. At 
 last the Magnet shipped a heavy sea, and the steersman, 
 either from losing his presence of mind, or from not know- 
 ing how to act, allowed the boat to broach to. Fortunately 
 no other sea struck her whilst thus placed, else both she 
 
372 MEET WITH ESQUIMAUX. [JJjJ 
 
 and the crew must inevitably have been lost." The gale 
 continued to increase, and at last became so violent, that 
 they were forced to run for shelter under the lee of a large 
 island. On a neighbouring island, a number of Esquimaux 
 tents were seen, but it could not be discovered whether or 
 not they were inhabited. Rain poured down in torrents, 
 but, rather than recline in lazy luxuriance on his wet 
 blanket, Dr. Rae seized his gun and proceeded, after the 
 manner of Robinson Crusoe, to make a survey of the island. 
 Like him, too, he discovered a footprint in the sand, but it 
 was that of a large white bear, which, from the havoc made 
 in the nests of the wild-fowl, had evidently been dining on 
 a few hundred eggs. He also fell in with a number of 
 Esquimaux graves, protected, though not very effectually, 
 from the depredations of wild animals by arches of stone. 
 Among these graves were found a number of spear heads 
 and knives ; but Esquimaux do not generally destroy all 
 the property of the deceased, as do most of the Indian 
 tribes. 
 
 In the evening the wind moderated, and they received a 
 visit from five Esquimaux, from the tents before mentioned. 
 They each received a small piece of tobacco, of which they 
 seemed remarkably fond. A large, deep river, which 
 empties itself into the sea not far from the island they had 
 landed on, abounds in white whales, seals, and salmon. 
 One of the latter, weighing ten pounds, was caught, and 
 proved an acceptable variety to their supper of pemmican. 
 Salmon, however, are not always, in these wild countries, 
 partaken of with the gusto that might be supposed by those 
 who dwell in more civilized climes. There is a great truth 
 enunciated when it is said, a man may have " too much of 
 a good thing.' 7 There is a river called the Moise, which 
 flows near the Labrador coast, and empties itself into the 
 Gulf of St. Lawrence. Go there, reader — you will find 
 
JjJJ] TOO MUCH OP A GOOD THING. 373 
 
 dwelling in a solitary trading establishment, about twenty 
 miles from the banks of that river, a lonely clerk of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company. One other human being, a 
 Canadian, helps him to inhabit the spot ; all the rest of his 
 party, eight or ten in number, being away at a salmon- 
 fishery on the Moise. He has just risen from a breakfast 
 of roasted salmon, and now takes down his gun and sallies, 
 forth into the woods behind the house. For the last three 
 weeks he has done so, and has returned, day after day, 
 with the same charge in his gun; for it is summer, and 
 the water-fowl are away north, and everything else has 
 vanished, no one knows where — away south, probably! 
 He empties his piece into the blue sky, however, and calls 
 for dinner. Several large cuts of boiled salmon are brought 
 and set before him. " No hardship this," you will say. 
 Perhaps not ; but it certainly approximates to discomfort, 
 when fried salmon appears at tea, and kippered salmon 
 graces the table next morning at breakfast, and so on un- 
 ceasingly for weeks together, till at last he loaths salmon, 
 kippered, fried, roasted, or boiled, with a frenzied intensity 
 that can scarcely be understood by those who purchase the 
 delicacy in a British market at two shillings per pound ! 
 This is no ideal case, got up to show how a good thing 
 might be detested when one had too much of it. It is a 
 well -authenticated instance in which salmon once was 
 actually superabundant, and was heartily abhorred. 
 
 The relish with which Dr. Rae and his party ate their 
 supper was not, however, blunted on the present occasion, 
 by having too much of it ; nor was the doctor's apprecia- 
 tion of rest at all lowered by the uncomfortable condition 
 in which he found his couch upon retiring to it after the 
 evening meal. " When about to go to bed," says he, " I 
 found my blankets quite wet by the seas that washed 
 over me in the morning. This, however, made them 
 
374 FEATURES OP THE COAST. [JjJJ 
 
 keep out the wind better, and did not certainly affect my 
 rest!" 
 
 The island and its neighbourhood, they found, was a 
 favourite resort of the natives. The following day was 
 more moderate, but not sufficiently so to permit of their 
 venturing out of harbour. On the 9 th, however, the wind 
 shifted, and they were enabled to lie their course. The sea 
 was studded with numerous islets, the resort of immense 
 flocks of birds, which the travellers used as food (although 
 not very palatable) to save their pemmican. A few of the 
 birds called guillimots were also observed here. The 
 weather was very variable, with calms and light breezes 
 alternating. Nevertheless they made good way, taking- 
 advantage of every favouring puff to spread their sails and 
 court the winds, and continuing steadily at the oars, often 
 by night as well as by day. The shores had become steep 
 and rugged; the whole coast being lined with bare primi- 
 tive rocks, and the sea dotted occasionally with rocky 
 islands, from among which were obtained constant and 
 large supplies of eggs and water-fowl. Several deer were 
 also shot by the men, so that their larder was usually over- 
 flowing with the fat of the land. 
 
 On the 13th Chesterfield Inlet was passed. Here they 
 were visited by a solitary Esquimaux, one of a band which 
 resorts to this place for the purpose of spearing deer 
 whilst swimming across the inlet in autumn. A number of 
 walruses were seen here. " They were grunting and bellow- 
 ing," says Rae, " making a noise which I fancy would much 
 resemble a concert of old boars and buffaloes." During 
 a two days' detention at an inlet into which they had run 
 for shelter, Dr. Rae and one of his men traced eight miles 
 of the course of a considerable river which flows into the 
 bay. At its mouth upwards of thirty seals were observed 
 basking in the sun, among whom a ball was sent, which 
 
July 
 
 ARRIVE AT REPULSE BAY. 375 
 
 had the effect of sending them walloping into the water in 
 ludicrous haste. During their walk a hen partridge and 
 her brood were found. This bird afforded them an inter- 
 esting instance of the strong power of love in overcoming 
 natural timidity and weakness when it exists strongly in 
 the breasts even of the lower animals. " I have seen," 
 says Rae, " many birds attempt to defend their young, but 
 never witnessed one so devotedly brave as this mother: 
 she ran about us, over and between our feet, striking at 
 our hands when we attempted to take hold of her young, 
 so that she herself was easily made prisoner. Although 
 kept in the hand some time, when let loose again she con- 
 tinued her attacks with unabated courage and perseverance, 
 and was soon left mistress of the field, with her family safe 
 around her." 
 
 The rest of their voyage along the coast was unmarked 
 by any incident of peculiar interest. Light winds and 
 sunshine succeeded to stiff breezes and clouds; and they 
 experienced the usual vicissitudes attendant upon arctic 
 travelling, in the shape of ice, fogs, rain, and snow. To- 
 wards the end of July they drew near the scene of future 
 operations; and, on the 25th of that month, landed at the 
 head of Repulse Bay. Here they met a party of Esqui- 
 maux, who, as usual, received their pacific advances with 
 some distrust. Under the influence of Ooligbuck's per- 
 suasive tongue, however, they soon threw aside their fears, 
 and became communicative, informing their interrogators 
 that the bay (called Akkoolee) of which they were in 
 search was not much more than forty miles distant from 
 the spot where they stood, in a N.N.W. direction, and 
 that about thirty-five miles of this distance was a chain of 
 deep lakes. This decided Dr. Rae in his resolution to 
 penetrate to the sea in his boats, in preference to a method, 
 which he had once contemplated, of going round and de- 
 
376 PLEASING APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES. [JjJJ 
 
 scending into the bay by the Straits of the Fury and Hecla. 
 Accordingly, the boats were hauled up on the beach, and 
 a reconnoitring party went off to examine a small stream 
 which falls into Repulse Bay not far from the spot on 
 which they landed. 
 
 The Esquimaux were good-looking fellows, of low sta- 
 ture, and much more cleanly than those of Hudson's Straits. 
 One of the men had a formidable beard and whiskers, and 
 another, a youth with ruddy cheeks and sparkling black 
 eyes, which beamed with fun and good-humour, was dressed 
 somewhat fancifully even for an Esquimaux, and seemed 
 to entertain a high opinion of his personal appearance. 
 
 Having ascertained that the little river rose in a lake 
 about five miles from its mouth, they commenced, on the 
 following day, to drag the North Pole up the stream, 
 having first secured the cargoes, and placed them, with the 
 Magnet, in a place of security, with a guard to protect them 
 from the natives, who assembled to the number of twenty- 
 six to welcome their visiters. From these people was ob- 
 tained a seasonable supply of seal-skin boots, which, being 
 perfectly waterproof, are well adapted for travelling over 
 wet ground. These boots are made of undressed seal-skin, 
 the sole being made of walrus hide. They are so hard, 
 that it is impossible to get them on until after being 
 thoroughly soaked, outside and in, with water, in which 
 state they are pliable, and after being rubbed dry with a 
 cloth, are ready for use. If parts of them have not been 
 sufficiently softened during the soaking, the natives hasten 
 the process by chewing the refractory portions between 
 their teeth. u When about to put on a pair of Esquimaux 
 boots," says Rae, " one of our female visiters, noticing that 
 the leather of the foot was rather hard, took them out of 
 my hands, and began chewing them with her strong teeth!" 
 
 The work of discovery now commenced. No white 
 
July 
 1846 
 
 FIRST STEPS ON UNKNOWN GROUND. 377 
 
 man had ever penetrated into the interior of the land on 
 whose shores they now stood. All beyond the shores of 
 Repulse Bay was an unknown wilderness, except in so far 
 as it had been described to them by the natives; and it 
 was with renewed energy and freshened hope that they 
 began the difficult ascent of the little river before mentioned. 
 The bed of this stream was extremely rocky and broken, 
 obliging the men to be constantly up to their waists in the 
 ice-cold water; and, despite their utmost endeavours to 
 prevent it, the boat got severely rubbed and bruised — not, 
 however, so as to damage her materially. They soon 
 passed the river, and entered upon a lake whence it flows, 
 where they encountered a gale of wind. This did not arrest, 
 although it impeded their progress, and, in a few hours, 
 they came to the end of the lake, which, with the river 
 that flowed out of it, was named after the boat. A narrow 
 channel conducted them into another lake towards evening, 
 on whose treeless shores they encamped for the night. No 
 wood of any kind was to be found; but they were so for- 
 tunate as to discover a kind of plant which, although it did 
 not make the cheerful, bright, crackling blaze which affords 
 so much comfort and enjoyment to the voyageur in the 
 thick- wood lands, still served the purpose of cooking their 
 supper and warming their fingers. 
 
 Next morning (the 28th) they started at six, and con- 
 tinued their journey. The banks of the lake were low and 
 without rocks, being covered with short grass in many places. 
 At ten o'clock they arrived at a neck of land about half a 
 mile broad, which separates this lake from another; and 
 while part of the crew were occupied in carrying the goods 
 over it, some were busily engaged in preparing breakfast. 
 Here they were in some doubt as to what course ought to 
 be pursued, having got confused in the intricacies of the 
 lake. After some difficulty in conveying the boat over 
 
378 DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED [ 
 
 Jtn.T 
 1846. 
 
 one or two of the portages, which being covered with 
 granite stones, the boat's keel stuck to them like glue, they 
 reached a point whence was obtained a view of the Arctic 
 Sea, bearing north, at a distance, apparently, of about 
 twelve miles. Not a pool of open water, however, was to 
 be seen upon its broad expanse, the whole of which was 
 covered to the horizon with immense fields of ice. Crossing 
 two more portages and another small lake, they entered 
 upon a body of fresh water of nearly six and a half miles 
 in length, and not more than half a mile broad. Its banks 
 were steep and rugged, being in many places upwards of 
 three hundred feet high. At the end of this lake they 
 found a portage, the most difficult to surmount that had yet 
 obstructed their passage. A short passage from Dr. Rae's 
 interesting work will give some idea of the difficulties 
 encountered at this place, which was little worse after all 
 than the rest of the route. " The following morning was 
 cloudy, with a cold, north breeze, which was not at all 
 unfavourable for the work we had to do. We went to work 
 at an early hour, but our advance was very slow, as the 
 portage fully realized the bad opinion that we had formed 
 of it. Hitherto, by laying the anchor out some distance 
 ahead, and having a block attached to the bow of the boat 
 by a strop, or what sailors call a swifter passing round 
 her, we could form a purchase sufficiently strong to move 
 her with facility; but here our utmost exertions were re- 
 quired, and the tracking line was frequently broken. A 
 piece of iron, an eighth of an inch thick, which lined the 
 keel from stem to stern, was actually drawn out and doubled 
 up, so that it was necessary to remove the whole. At half- 
 past ten, when half way across, we breakfasted, after which 
 we met with a bank of snow, over which we went at a 
 great rate, * * * Near the extremity of the portage 
 there were some ponds of water deep enough to float the 
 
Aug. 
 1646. 
 
 AND OVERCOME. 379 
 
 boat, that helped us not a little. The descent of a steep 
 bank fully a hundred feet high brought us into another 
 fine lake eight miles long and one mile broad, lying nearly 
 north and south, with steep rocky shores on its west side. 
 * * * This lake was named i Miles,' after a friend. 
 As it was quite calm, we pulled up due north, and entered 
 a narrow inlet, out of which there was no passage. * * * 
 It was now too late, however, to look for another exit, and 
 we all betook ourselves to rest after a hearty supper, for 
 which the fatigues of the day gave us an excellent appetite. 
 Some of the men had large pieces of skin stripped from 
 their backs whilst lifting the boat over the various obstruc- 
 tions on the portage."* 
 
 Perseverance at last overcame all obstacles ; and, on the 
 2d of August, they launched upon the salt waters of a 
 lake which communicated, through a narrow channel, with 
 the sea. Here they found two Esquimaux tents ; and while 
 the men put ashore to prepare breakfast, Dr. Rae walked 
 up to them to pay a morning call and introduce himself to 
 the inmates, if any there were. On reaching the tents he 
 found all quiet inside, but, after calling once or twice outside 
 the door of one, the lady of the house suddenly made her 
 appearance, apparently just out of bed, as she was very 
 composedly drawing on her capacious boots, whilst she 
 surveyed the doctor without showing the slightest symptom 
 of alarm, although, as he afterwards learned, she had never 
 seen a white man before. Immediately afterwards an old 
 man popped out his head, and stood beside his better half in 
 great perplexity. He was evidently a cipher, and seemed 
 utterly incapable of putting forth a single effort to check 
 the torrent of volubility with which his lady assailed her 
 visiter. It was all expended in vain, however, until 
 
 * Eae's Expedition, pp. 46, 47. 
 
380 UNPROPITIOUS CONDITION OF THE SEA. [£j£ 
 
 Ooligbuck's opportune arrival, when, with the help of a 
 few presents, all parties came to a friendly understanding. 
 Their report of the state of the ice in the large bay was 
 sufficiently discouraging. They said that there was sel- 
 dom enough of open water to float one of their small canoes; 
 and, from the appearance of it at the time, Dr. Rae was 
 inclined to believe they spoke truth. The remainder of 
 their party, consisting of two sons and their wives, had 
 gone a day's journey inland to hunt the musk-ox. After 
 breakfast they proceeded on their way; and, the same 
 evening, launched their boat on the waters of the Polar Sea, 
 in latitude 67° 15' N. From this point Dr. Rae sent 
 three of his men back to Repulse Bay on foot, a distance 
 of forty-three miles, for the purpose of making every pos- 
 sible preparation for the winter; instructing them to be 
 particularly careful to keep up a friendly intercourse with 
 the natives. With the remaining seven men he proceeded 
 to survey the coast to the north-westward in his boat. 
 
 It was now the 3d of August; yet the ice filled the bay 
 in such quantities that they were completely set fast in the 
 evening, and had to put ashore. A wooden sledge was 
 found, which was evidently made of the planks of a vessel 
 (probably the Fury or Sir John Ross's steamer the Victory). 
 It furnished them with a seasonable supply of fuel. On 
 landing they were much disappointed to find that the only 
 fresh water to be obtained was so bad as to be nearly 
 undrinkable. It resembled chocolate in appearance; but 
 arctic travellers are not nice, and the dirty water was 
 swallowed without comment after the first disapproving 
 growl. The coast was generally low and flat, being in 
 some parts lined for miles with mud banks, from eight to 
 ten feet high, frozen quite solid, and, in other parts, broken 
 by rocky capes and headlands. Although desolate enough, 
 as far as man was concerned, there was no lack of animal 
 
f 8 "gj DEEP* SHOT ON THE ICE. 381 
 
 life to enliven the scene. Wolves serenaded them by night ; 
 marmots chattered at them by day, standing up on their 
 hind-legs, as the exploring party passed, to gaze (it is 
 presumed) in wonderment at the unwonted sight. Foot- 
 prints of musk cattle and deer were observe d in the sand, 
 while the air thrilled with the wild music of hundreds of 
 golden plovers and sand-pipers. One morning a young 
 buck was observed on a piece of ice half a mile to seaward. 
 It had been forced to take to the water to escape the wolves, 
 one or two of which were seen skulking along shore, await- 
 ing the poor animal's return. The boat instantly started in 
 pursuit, as the state of their larder did not allow them to 
 be merciful ; and after a long chase, the poor deer was shot 
 whilst swimming from one floe to another. The weather 
 was very unsettled. Fogs continued to retard them con- 
 stantly, while they tracked and poled amongst the masses 
 of ice which beset them on every side. It also rained 
 continually; so that, besides being wet all day, their fuel 
 was so saturated as to render it impossible to make a fire, 
 obliging them to sleep in wet clothes and wet beds night 
 after night. " Fortunately," says Rae, with characteristic 
 coolness, " the weather was mild, so that we did not feel 
 much inconvenience from this !" Besides being surrounded 
 by ice, they were constantly exposed to the danger of 
 being overwhelmed by the ponderous masses under which 
 they were compelled frequently to pass. Some of these 
 masses were twenty feet up in the air, and they were 
 crashing into the sea all round them, without a moment's 
 warning to give indication of the approaching catastrophe ! 
 What a position ! How utterly futile the power or pre- 
 caution of man in such a case. How eminently conspicuous 
 the protecting goodness of God. 
 
 Finding that there was no possibility of tracing the 
 western shore in the direction of Dease and Simpson's 
 
382 FARTHER PROGRESS ARRESTED. [^J 
 
 farthest, owing to the ice, Dr. Rae resolved, on the 5th, 
 to retrace his route, and endeavour to proceed along the 
 eastern shore towards the Straits of the Fury and Hecla. 
 In this attempt, however, he failed, in consequence of the 
 ice blockading that coast as thickly as it did the other. A 
 gale which blew on the 7th failed to clear it away; and 
 from this circumstance he felt convinced that Akkoolee 
 Bay must be completely blocked up. 
 
 On the 8th the flood-tide carried the ice down upon them 
 so as to render their position unsafe; and as it was impos- 
 sible to advance, the boat's head was unwillingly turned 
 towards the point whence they had set out ; at which place 
 Dr. Rae resolved to await some favourable change in the 
 state of the ice, and ascertain how things were going on at 
 Repulse Bay. 
 
 On arriving opposite the tents of their Esquimaux 
 friends, they beheld them running down to the beach, led 
 on by the old lady whose volubility of utterance has been 
 already noticed. On the present occasion she seemed to 
 have added an additional spring to her tongue, which went 
 like the clapper of a mill; and, for riotous noisiness, threw 
 all the others entirely into the shade, as she rushed towards 
 the party with loud shouts of joy at their return. The ox 
 hunters had returned, and brought information that the 
 deer had commenced migrating to the southward, which 
 determined the doctor to walk over to Repulse Bay, to see 
 what his men were doing towards procuring a supply of 
 venison for the winter. 
 
 Leaving three men and Ooligbuck's son in charge of 
 the boat, he set out on his journey with the remainder, 
 intending to cross the isthmus in a S.S.E. direction; " but 
 it was impossible," says he, " to keep this course for any 
 great distance, as we were forced to make long circuits to 
 avoid precipices and arms of the lake. After a most 
 
1846'.] JOURNEY ON FOOT OVER THE ISTHMUS. 383 
 
 fatiguing day's march over hill and dale, through swamp 
 and stream, we halted at half-past 6 p.m., close to the 
 second portage crossed on our outward route. To gain a 
 distance of twenty miles, we had travelled not less than 
 thirty. Our supper was soon finished, as it was neither 
 luxurious, nor required much cooking, consisting of our 
 staple commodities, pemmican, cold, with water. The 
 morning (of the 10th) was raw and cold, with some hoar 
 frost, and there not being a blanket among the party, and 
 only two coats, our sleep was neither long, sound, nor re- 
 freshing. In fact, I had carried no coat with me except 
 a thin Mackintosh, which being damp from the rain of 
 yesterday, had become an excellent conductor of caloric, 
 and added to the chilly feeling instead of keeping it off. 
 There is one advantage in an uncomfortable bed, it induces 
 early rising; and it proved so on the present occasion, for 
 we had finished breakfast and resumed our journey by 
 half-past 2 a.m. The travelling was as difficult as that 
 of yesterday, but we had the advantage of a cool morning, 
 and got on more easily. At seven o'clock we arrived at 
 the narrows which separate Christie and North Pole Lakes, 
 where we found the greater number of the Esquimaux we 
 had seen, encamped, waiting for the deer crossing over."* 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon they arrived at Repulse 
 Bay, with enviable appetites, but rather foot- sore, having 
 completely worn through their socks and shoes on the 
 journey. 
 
 Here the men were found to be living from hand to 
 mouth, having only enough of salmon and deer to prevent 
 them from starving. As the lives of the whole party 
 depended on their success in fishing and shooting, Dr. Rae, 
 after mature consideration, resolved to give up the idea of 
 
 % Eae's Narrative, pp. 59, 60. 
 
384 PREPARATIONS FOR WINTERING. Ltm. 
 
 prosecuti g the survey that autumn — a resolution which 
 was strengthened by the fact, that the immense quantities 
 of ice in the bay, and the prevalence of northerly winds, 
 rendered it more than probable that the objects of the 
 expedition could not have been completed during that year; 
 and as they should have no means of subsistence on re- 
 turning to Repulse Bay, it would have been necessary to 
 pass the winter at Churchill. 
 
 Having once formed his plans, the doctor lost no time 
 in putting them into execution. A house had to be built, 
 provision stores and observatories erected, fisheries estab- 
 lished, hunting parties sent out, fuel collected, and all the 
 multifarious preparations for a winter campaign in the 
 regions of ice, fog, snow, and desolation, attended to. 
 Accordingly, a party of the men were immediately de- 
 spatched to bring over the boat, and place her in a place 
 of safety, while Dr. Rae, shouldering his gun, sallied forth 
 to look for an eligible site whereon to erect his dwelling. 
 After a lengthened search, no better place could be found 
 than a deep valley, about a hundred and fifty yards to the 
 eastward of North Pole River, and not far from the spot 
 where they had originally landed. Besides being the best 
 locality as regarded shelter, there was the additional 
 advantage of several large bays close at hand, which were 
 likely to produce fish. During his survey, Dr. Rae fell 
 in with a covey of ptarmigan, out of which he bagged 
 eighteen brace in a couple of hours, an earnest of the 
 plentiful supply of food which they afterwards obtained. 
 
 At this time it became a matter of serious consideration 
 what was to be done for fuel. There was not a single tree 
 in the whole land; and even willows were scarce and 
 small- sized. Of these, however, they set vigorously to 
 work to collect as many as possible, and it was hoped 
 that, by dint of economy and a supply of oil from the 
 
JjJjF'] FORT HOPE. 385 
 
 natives, they should be able to keep the fire going all 
 winter. 
 
 On the 2d September the house was finished. The 
 walls, formed of mud and clay, were fully two feet thick; 
 three small openings were left, into which a like number 
 of windows were fixed, having two panes of glass each. 
 The door was made of parchment deer-skins, stretched over 
 a wooden frame. The roof was in keeping with the other 
 parts of this palace, being constructed of the oars and masts 
 of the boats with a moose-skin and oiled-cloth covering. 
 The entire edifice measured, internally, twenty feet long 
 by fourteen wide ; height in front, seven and a half feet, 
 sloping to five and a half at the back. One end of this 
 space was partitioned off with a screen of moose- skins; and 
 besides forming the library, parlour, and bed-room of Dr. 
 Rae, also served as a store-room for the pemmican which 
 was to be the travelling provision of the party on the 
 following spring, or their last hope in case of starvation. 
 A meat store was built close to the dwelling-house, and 
 afterwards, when the snow became sufficiently consolidated 
 to form slabs, two observatories were built with a pillar of 
 ice in each — one for the dip circle, the other for a hori- 
 zontally suspended needle on which to try the effect of the 
 Aurora. The establishment, when completed, was called 
 Fort Hope, and truly a more hopeful band of men have 
 seldom tenanted a house or dwelt in a land less hopeful in 
 appearance than was the little fort of Dr. Rae and his 
 voyageurs on the well-named shores of Repulse Bay. 
 
 The whole time and energies of the party were now 
 devoted to providing themselves with the means of sus- 
 taining life and caloric; and in accomplishing this, they 
 found themselves full occupation. The following is a 
 description of their procedure : — 
 
 " The routine of our day's work," says Rae, " was as fol- 
 2b 
 
386 DAILY ROUTINE OF THE FORT. [®JJJ 
 
 lows : In the morning we were up before daylight; the men 
 got orders for the several duties they had to perform, which 
 were principally carried on out of doors, and at which they 
 set to work immediately after rolling up their bedding and 
 taking breakfast. This meal usually consisted of boiled 
 venison, the water with which it was cooked being con- 
 verted into a very excellent soup by the addition of some 
 deers' blood, and a handful or two of flour. Our dinner, 
 or rather supper, consisted of the same materials as our 
 breakfast, and was taken about four or five o'clock ; after 
 that, my time was employed in writing my journal, or 
 making calculations, whilst the men were busy improving 
 themselves in reading, arithmetic, &c, in which I assisted 
 them as much as my time would permit. Divine service 
 was read every Sunday when practicable." 
 
 Towards the end of September, the pools of water were 
 frozen over, and a considerable portion of the bay set fast, 
 its smooth surface being broken here and there by the 
 thick heads of the seals, who did not seem to relish the 
 idea of being debarred from an occasional visit to the 
 atmospheric world, and took this method of keeping air- 
 holes open during the winter. The deer also became 
 numerous at this time, and often tempted the doctor, who 
 pleads guilty to the charge of being much addicted to 
 field-sports, to exchange the sextant for the rifle, an ex- 
 change which was certainly advantageous to the larder, 
 for he tells us that, out of ten deer shot one day, seven were 
 killed by himself within a few miles of the house. The 
 sporting-book for September showed that they had been 
 diligent and successful: 63 deer, 5 hares, 1 seal, 172 
 partridges, and 116 salmon and trout, having been brought 
 in. 
 
 About the beginning of October the cold became suffi- 
 ciently intense to penetrate within doors; but this, strange 
 
f 8 C 4 T g ] ADVENTUKE WITH A DEER. 387 
 
 though it may appear, added to, rather than diminished, 
 their comfort — for a time at least — as it froze the clay- 
 walls of the building, which had at first been disagreeably 
 damp. The frost, however, effectually removed this, until 
 the succeeding spring thawed them down again. 
 
 On the 19th the doctor very narrowly escaped an un- 
 pleasant rencontre with a deer. " When out shooting," 
 says he, " having killed one deer, I went in pursuit of 
 another (a large buck) that had been wounded, and put 
 four balls through him. Thinking that the last ball had 
 settled the business (for he had fallen), I went carelessly 
 up to him without reloading my rifle, and when within a 
 few yards I exclaimed, ' Ah ! poor fellow, you are done for 
 at last,' when the deer, as if he understood what I said, 
 and thought I was adding insult to injury, sprang to his 
 legs in a moment, and, at a couple of bounds, his horns 
 were within a foot of me. Circumstanced as I was, I 
 thought with Falstaff, ' that discretion was the better part 
 of valour,' and beat a hasty retreat, laughing heartily all 
 the time at the strange figure we must have cut. Taking 
 the deer by the horns could have been of no use, and might 
 have cost me some troublesome bruises and scratches." 
 
 Notwithstanding the strenuous exertions that had been 
 made, it was found, towards the middle of November, that 
 they could not afford fuel to dry their clothes ; warm food 
 being considered more essential to health and comfort than 
 dry clothing. They therefore adopted the plan of taking 
 them under the blankets at night, and drying them by the 
 heat of their bodies ! As may be supposed, this was not 
 agreeable, particularly when the cold became so great as 
 to freeze the moisture which collected in the house during 
 the day, depositing it in a thick coat on the blankets, which 
 were found sparkling with hoarfrost when they retired to 
 rest at night ; and these blankets were not entirely free 
 
388 INTENSITY OF THE FROST. [^184?°* 
 
 from ice till the first of March, when the sun first became 
 powerful enough to dry them ! Dr. Rae tells us that his 
 waistcoat became so stiff at last, owing to the constant 
 deposit of moisture from his breath, which was frozen as 
 soon as deposited, that he could scarcely manage to button 
 it ; and, as the fuel became more scarce, the heat raised in 
 Fort Hope was never sufficient to thaw this said garment. 
 On the 1st of February, however, the waistcoat experienced 
 a temporary disenchantment from its sad condition, on the 
 occasion of its wearer paying a visit to the snow habitation 
 of an Esquimaux, which edifice was so warm that the waist- 
 coat actually thawed ! As time wore on, things grew more 
 and more desperate ; and one cannot help smiling at the 
 cool way in which Dr. Rae speaks of his discomforts. The 
 room in which they lived was so constantly filled with 
 tobacco smoke, that it was not quite certain whether it or 
 atmospheric air predominated. " Of course," says the 
 doctor (who was no smoker), " I might to a great extent 
 have put a stop to this, but the poor fellows appeared to 
 receive so much comfort from the use of the pipe, that it 
 would have been cruelty to do so for the sake of saving 
 myself a trifling inconvenience." In speaking of the cold, 
 he says, " Of oil our stock was so small that we had been 
 forced to keep early and late hours, namely, lying occa- 
 sionally fourteen hours in bed, as we found that to sit up 
 in a house in which the temperature was some degrees below 
 zero, without either light or fire, was not very pleasant!" 
 Nevertheless, the whole party seemed actually to enjoy 
 themselves under these circumstances; and one poor fellow 
 who had his knee frozen while in bed, only got laughed at 
 for his effeminacy, instead of being commiserated, when 
 he made known the fact ! 
 
 On the 28th of January 1847, North Pole River was 
 frozen to the bottom, so that it became necessary to go to 
 
jg 4 N ? - ] RENCONTRE WITH THE WOLVES. 389 
 
 a "lake about half a mile from the house for water. Dur- 
 ing the constant gales which swept the snow-drift in thick 
 volumes round their little dwelling, the boat became com- 
 pletely drifted over, so that not a trace of her was to be 
 seen. She was found at last; and after the greater part of 
 the men had been employed for fourteen days in clearing 
 her of snow, she was at length extricated from a hole 
 more than twelve feet deep. 
 
 Wolves were exceedingly numerous during the whole 
 winter. One morning Ooligbuck shot one, not more than 
 ten yards from the door of the house, and six or eight more 
 were seen not far off. When pressed by hunger, these 
 fierce but cowardly brutes, if strong in numbers, will some- 
 times attack a man. Early one morning, before day- light, 
 Dr. Rae met a pack. " I observed," says he, " a band of 
 animals coming over a rising ground at a quick pace directly 
 towards me. I at first supposed them to be deer, but on a 
 nearer approach they proved to be wolves, seventeen in 
 number. They continued to advance at full speed until 
 within forty yards, when they formed a sort of half circle 
 to leeward. Hoping to send a ball through one, I knelt 
 down and took what I thought a sure aim at a large fellow 
 that was nearest; unfortunately it was not broad day-light, 
 and the rascals all kept end on to me, so that the ball 
 merely cut off a line of hair and a piece of skin from his 
 side. They apparently did not expect to meet with such 
 a reception, for, after looking at me a second or two, they 
 trotted off, no doubt as much disappointed at not making 
 a breakfast of me, as I was at missing my aim. Had they 
 come to close quarters, which they sometimes do when hard 
 pressed for food, I had a large and strong knife which 
 would have proved a very efficient weapon." 
 
 The winter passed slowly away ; and, towards the month 
 of March, the weather became somewhat milder, and the 
 
390 RENEW THE SURVEY ON FOOT. [is*"' 
 
 deer began to migrate northward again. Still there were 
 many weeks to pass away before the massive cakes of ice, 
 which bound river, lake, and sea, would yield to the power 
 of spring and set the waters free. Dr. Rae had deter- 
 mined to prosecute part of his discoveries on the ice, and 
 accordingly about this time he began to make preparations 
 for setting out. Two sledges were constructed of the bat- 
 tens which lined the inside of the boat, three of which were 
 nailed together to form runners of sufficient thickness. It 
 had been intended to start on the 1st of April, but this 
 was prevented by an accident which happened to Ooligbuck. 
 He had been out hunting one day, and happened acciden- 
 tally to stumble. In falling, a large dagger, which he 
 usually carried, ran completely through his arm, and 
 caused such a flow of blood that he had scarcely strength 
 left to return to the fort. A little care, however, soon 
 restored him ; and preparations were made for setting out 
 finally on the 5th of April. 
 
 The men who went on this winter expedition were, Dr. 
 Rae, George Flett, John Corrigal, William A damson, 
 Ooligbuck's son, and Ivitchuk, an Esquimaux. The pro- 
 visions, &c, were drawn on two sledges, to each of which 
 four dogs were harnessed. Their provision for the journey 
 consisted of three bags of pemmican, seventy rein-deer 
 tongues, half a hundredweight of flour, some tea, choco- 
 late, and sugar, besides a little alcohol and oil for fuel. 
 Each man had a blanket and a supply of moccasins and 
 socks. Thus equipped, they started from Fort Hope early 
 in the morning, in the midst of a gale of wind, with clouds 
 of drifting snow. Towards breakfast-time, however, the 
 weather smiled propitiously on them. The clouds dis- 
 persed, leaving the deep blue of the wintry sky to spread 
 a gladdening influence over the scene and over the spirits 
 of the arctic travellers. Five suns shone forth with dazzling 
 
Aprii/1 
 
 lg'47 ] CURIOUS DWELLINGS. 391 
 
 brilliancy ! four of which, however, were parhelia, or mock 
 suns, and they rivalled in brightness the orb of day him- 
 self. The track followed was that formerly pursued in 
 the boat ; their intention being to cross the isthmus that 
 separates Akkoolee from Repulse Bay, and coast along 
 the former on the ice until they reached Lord Mayor's 
 Bay, which was the most southerly part of Boothia Felix 
 discovered by Sir John Ross. 
 
 During the day's march, numerous bands of deer crossed 
 their path, which served greatly to enliven the scene, and 
 proved a capital stimulus to the dogs, which, from the bad 
 state of the roads, were frequently inclined to lag. To- 
 wards seven o'clock in the evening the whole party began 
 to feel inclined for rest, and finally called a halt on the 
 eastern shore of Christie Lake, where they prepared to 
 pass the night. 
 
 In this world of wonders, we become so much accus- 
 tomed to hear of and to behold astounding facts, that they 
 cease very much to make any impression upon us. Never- 
 theless, we do think that it is somewhat calculated to make 
 an impression on the most obtuse minds, to be told that 
 Dr. Rae and his men built a house every evening during 
 their journey, and forsook it, without the smallest feeling 
 of regret, every morning I But let the doctor speak for 
 himself. " Our usual mode," says he, " of preparing 
 lodgings for the night was as follows : — As soon as we 
 had selected a spot for our snow-house, our Esquimaux, 
 assisted by one or more of the men, commenced cutting 
 out blocks of snow. When a sufficient number of these 
 had been raised, the builder commenced his work, his 
 assistants supplying him with the material. A good 
 roomy dwelling was thus raised in an hour, if the snow 
 was in a good state for building. Whilst our principal 
 mason was thus occupied, another of the party was busy 
 
392 SNOW HUTS ESQUIMAUX. Di847? 
 
 erecting a kitchen, which, although our cooking was none 
 of the most delicate or extensive, was still a necessary 
 addition to our establishment, had it been only to thaw 
 snow. As soon as the snow-hut was completed, our sledges 
 were unloaded, and everything eatable (including parch- 
 ment-skin and moose- skin shoes, which had now become 
 favourite articles with the dogs) taken inside. Our bed 
 was next made, and by the time the snow was thawed or 
 the water boiled, as the case might be, we were all ready 
 for supper. When we used alcohol for fuel (which we 
 usually did in stormy weather), no kitchen was required." 
 
 They sat rent-free, however, which no doubt reconciled 
 them in some degree to their cold dwelling, which, besides 
 being unheated by ought save the animal caloric of the 
 inmates, was but dimly illuminated by a small window of 
 clear ice placed in the roof. These truly primitive edifices 
 were usually erected in a couple of hours, and are spoken 
 of as being "very snug !" Be this as it may, the whole 
 party spent the night in one of these snow-huts, and on 
 the following morning emerged, like bees out of a huge 
 white hive, to resume their toilsome journey. 
 
 A little before noon they arrived at a snow-hut inhabited 
 by two Esquimaux, one of whom, Kei-ik-too-oo, agreed to 
 accompany them for a short way with his sledge, to help 
 them over the isthmus. Some of the party were slightly 
 affected with snow-blindness, a disease very common in 
 arctic regions, especially in spring, when the intense 
 brilliancy of the sun causes such a glare upon the white 
 snow as to produce severe inflammation of the eyes. The 
 Indians do not take any precautions to prevent snow-blind- 
 ness, although they suffer very much from it; but the 
 Esquimaux, who are every way more ingenious than their 
 red neighbours, make wooden blinds or spectacles, which 
 very effectually prevents this unpleasant malady. On the 7th 
 
l£JJ # L ] ROUGHNESS OF THE ROUTE. 333 
 
 they reached the sea. The weather was dark and gloomy, 
 though somewhat milder, the thermometer standing five 
 degrees above zero. The coast was found to be so rough 
 with broken ice, that the men and dogs had great difficulty 
 in dragging the sledges over it ; and a stiff breeze, which 
 dashed the snow-drift continually in their faces, prevented 
 them from picking their way along the smoothest parts. 
 One of the dogs also became so much exhausted as to be 
 quite useless ; so it was unharnessed, and allowed to walk 
 behind. Even this it was not able to do long, and at 
 last it lay down. Eather than leave it to the mercy of the 
 wolves, they shot it. At a small river, near which they 
 encamped on the 9th, a number of loose stones were found, 
 which enabled them to form a "cache" of provisions for 
 the homeward journey. 
 
 The coast varied much in appearance, being in some 
 places low and flat, at other parts more elevated and 
 broken. Several hills were also observed a few miles 
 inland, one of which appeared to be fully five hundred 
 feet high. The latitude was observed here, 67° 53' 24' , 
 and the coast turned off to the westward, forming a point, 
 which was named Cape Weynton. 
 
 Thus they proceeded, sometimes making rapid progress, 
 when the ice on the sea was smooth and the weather calm ; 
 at other times struggling slowly against biting winds and 
 driving snow, or stumbling over the broken ice along the 
 shore. Dr. Rae frequently fell behind the party to take 
 the bearings and observations, on which occasions he had 
 considerable, difficulty sometimes in preventing his face 
 and fingers from freezing. The scarcity of fuel anno}^ed 
 them not a little. Their alcohol and oil ran so low at last, 
 that it could not be used to cook the pemmican ; and for 
 the purpose of economising it still further, they gave up 
 using it to melt snow for water, and obtained this indis- 
 
394 NEW METHOD OP OBTAINING^ WATER. [Is*? 1 * 
 
 pensable fluid by filling two small kettles and a bladder 
 with snow, which they took to bed with them ! Strange 
 bed-fellows, and somewhat unpleasant too, for on one occa- 
 sion the fastening of the bladder came off, and the natural 
 consequences followed. Severe work had now given the 
 dogs such strong appetites, that they became perfectly 
 ravenous, and although they received a fair allowance of 
 provisions, devoured everything that came in their way — 
 shoes, leather mitts, and even a worsted belt, was eaten, 
 much to the chagrin of the owners, and the merriment of 
 the others. The party usually supped on pemmican and 
 cold water, as they could only afford one hot meal in the 
 day, and preferred taking it in the morning. 
 
 On the 12th, being informed by the Esquimaux that, 
 by crossing over the land in a north-west direction, to a 
 large bay which he had formerly visited, the way would 
 be shortened considerably, it was resolved to do so; and 
 accordingly, leaving the coast at latitude 68° 18' N., lon- 
 gitude 88° 26' W., they struck across the land. Here the 
 walking was found to be much more laborious, and the 
 snow too soft to support the sledges, so that they were 
 obliged to encamp an hour after noon on the borders of a 
 small lake, as the dogs were quite knocked up. During 
 the day they passed a small river, which was frozen to 
 the bottom; but the ice on the lake was found to be only 
 four feet eight inches thick, so that they cut through it, 
 and enjoyed, for once, the luxury of drinking fresh water 
 ad libitum. Ivitchuk drank with an intensity of zest that 
 was of itself quite refreshing to behold. This part of the 
 country was miserably barren. No signs of deer or musk- 
 oxen were seen, the tracks of a few foxes alone indicating 
 that the desolate spot was inhabited. 
 
 For several days after this, the weather became ex- 
 tremely stormy, and on the 14th it blew a complete storm 
 
\H] h ] STORMY WEATHER. 395 
 
 all night ; nevertheless, Dr. Rae assures us that they were 
 as comfortable in their snow-hive as if they had been 
 lodged in the best house in England. Next day they 
 reached the sea again, on the shores of a large bay upwards 
 of twenty-three miles broad, which was named Pelly Bay, 
 and encamped under the lee of a group of islands six miles 
 from the shore. On the 16th the gale increased, with 
 snow-drift from the north-west, so that it was impossible 
 to advance. This did not much matter, however, as the 
 doctor had intended to rest a day here to recruit the men 
 and dogs, and at the same time to send out in search of 
 the Esquimaux, whose tracks had been discovered in the 
 neighbourhood, and from whom he hoped to procure some 
 seals' flesh and blubber ; the first for food, and the latter 
 for fuel. In this they were not successful, the drift being 
 so thick that the men who were sent out could not see any 
 distance. In the meantime Corrigal and Adamson had 
 been collecting fuel, and Dr. Rae obtained an observation 
 for latitude, which gave 68° 53' 44", from which he con- 
 cluded that Sir John Ross's most southerly discoveries 
 could not be distant more than two days' journey. 
 
 It was now resolved that part of the men should be left 
 here, while Dr. Rae should proceed the remainder of the 
 way in company with two of the men. Flett and Corrigal 
 were chosen for this service, being the strongest of the 
 party, and the remainder were instructed to kill seals if 
 they could; to trade with the natives, if they saw any; 
 and, above all, to moderate their appetites to the lowest 
 possible ebb, whether they could or not. Having made 
 these arrangements, Dr. Rae and his men set off, and 
 travelled briskly over the snow. 
 
 Being lightly laden, they made good progress. A brisk 
 walk of seventeen miles brought them, an hour before noon 
 of the 1 7th, to the shore, near a high point formed of dark 
 
rApRii, 
 
 396 REACHES LORD MAYOR S BAY. LaS47. 
 
 gray granite, which was named Cape Berens ; and at 3 p.m. 
 they came to two narrow points in a small bay, which 
 were called the Twins, and between which they built their 
 snow-hut for the night. 
 
 The morning of the 18 th was fine, but hazy, with a light 
 wind from the N.W., the thermometer 3° below zero, 
 and the walking good, so that they soon traversed twelve 
 miles of country, when they reached what proved to be the 
 head of a deep inlet, whose western shores they had been 
 tracing. It was named Halkett's Inlet. Two rein-deer 
 were seen here. As there could be no doubt that they 
 were now in the vicinity of Lord Mayor's Bay, they im- 
 mediately struck across the land instead of following the 
 coast. The walking proved to be very tiresome, however ; 
 and after floundering three miles through the deep snow, 
 Dr. Rae ordered his men to halt and prepare their night's 
 lodgings, while he proceeded on alone to search for the 
 coast. 
 
 A walk of twenty minutes brought him to an inlet, not 
 more than quarter of a mile wide, which he traced upwards 
 of a league, when his course was again obstructed by land. 
 There were some high rocks near at hand which he 
 ascended, and from their summits thought he could discern 
 rough ice in the desired direction. With renewed hopes, 
 he slid down a declivity, plunged among snow, scrambled 
 over rocks and through rough ice, until he gained a rising 
 ground close to the sea-shore, from whose summit he beheld 
 Lord Mayor's Bay stretching out before him far as the eye 
 could reach, clothed with ice and studded with innumerable 
 islands. These were the islands named the sons of the 
 clergy of the Church of Scotland by Sir John Ross, to 
 whose discoveries Dr. Rae had now joined his own ; thus 
 completing a link which had long been wanting in the 
 chain of arctic geography, and going far to settle the 
 
"l84?] TAKE POSSESSION OF THE LAND AND RETURN. 397 
 
 disputed point as to whether Boothia Felix is an island or a 
 peninsula. There is still, however, a doubt hanging over 
 this question. In his journey northward, Dr. Rae tells us 
 that he was on the eve of making a survey of Pelly Bay, 
 when he was informed by one of the natives that a com- 
 plete view of its shores could be obtained from the island 
 on which they were encamped. He accordingly ascended 
 to the highest point, the evening being beautifully clear, 
 and " obtained a distinct view of the whole bay, except a 
 small portion immediately under the sun." Dr. Rae does 
 not appear to have entertained a doubt of this being a 
 more distant part of the coast line ; yet it is possible that 
 this portion of the supposed bay may be a narrow strait, 
 which perhaps communicates with the large bay seen by 
 Messrs. Dease and Simpson from their farthest point of 
 discovery, and from which it cannot be distant more than 
 a hundred miles. 
 
 Having taken possession of his discoveries, Dr. Rae and 
 his men returned to the companions they had left behind, 
 whom they found in a fat and flourishing condition. They 
 had taken advantage of the doctor's absence to supply 
 themselves more largely from the pemmican bags than 
 was at all necessary or expedient. Fortunately, however, 
 a quantity of seals' flesh, blood, and blubber, was obtained 
 from a party of Esquimaux whom they encountered during 
 their march; and being thus reinforced, it was resolved to 
 trace the shores of the peninsula across which they had 
 formerly cut in their anxiety to reach Lord Mayor's Bay. 
 This object was successfully accomplished after a severe 
 walk, when they experienced the usual alternations from 
 heat to cold, and storm to calm, in which the weather in 
 these hyperborean climes seems to take such peculiar de- 
 light. The increasing power of the sun, too, rendered 
 walking so difficult arid painful during the day that they 
 
398 RETURN TO FORT HOPE. 
 
 Mat 
 
 were fain to reverse the ordinary course of things, and 
 travel during the night, devoting the day to rest. 
 
 It was now approaching the end of April; and as it was 
 desirable, if possible, to survey the shores of the Akkoolee 
 (named by Dr. Rae Committee) Bay, before the breaking 
 up of the ice, no time was lost in retracing their route to 
 the fort at Repulse Bay. All the caches of provisions 
 which had been made during the outward journey were 
 found quite safe, and thus afforded them a plentiful supply 
 of food. On the morning of the 5th of May they reached 
 some Esquimaux dwellings on the shores of Christie's Lake, 
 about fifteen miles from Fort Hope. " At 2 p.m. on the 
 same day," says Rae, " we were again on the march, and 
 arrived at our home at half-past 8 p.m., all well, but so 
 black and scarred on the face from the combined effects of 
 oil, smoke, and frost bites, that our friends would not 
 believe but that some serious accident from the explosion 
 of gunpowder had happened to us. Thus successfully 
 terminated a journey little short of six hundred English 
 miles, the longest, I believe, ever made on foot along the 
 arctic coast.'' 
 
 During the absence of the exploring party, things had 
 gone on prosperously at winter quarters. Provisions, 
 although not superabundant, had been procured in sufficient 
 quantities to prevent the necessity of breaking upon the 
 pemmican, which they were so anxious to preserve for 
 travelling fare. Once, indeed, after consuming all they 
 had in store, and scouring the neighbourhood fruitlessly 
 in search of game, they were obliged to have a dinner of 
 tongues ; but soon afterwards the deer became more numer- 
 ous, the hunters more successful ; and, during the remain- 
 der of their stay at Fort Hope, they never wanted fresh 
 provisions. At the time of Dr. Rae's return with the ex- 
 ploring party, the meat store was well filled. This was a 
 
J^7.] PREPAEATIONS FOR ANOTHER JOURNEY. 399 
 
 happy circumstance, as they arrived as ravenous as wolves. 
 The short but hearty congratulations over, they made a 
 vigorous assault on the venison, and ate, according to their 
 own confession, a great deal more than would have been 
 good for them had the food been other than venison; as 
 it was, however, they gormandized with impunity. 
 
 Several families of Esquimaux had taken up their resi- 
 dence about a quarter of a mile from the fort. Here they 
 erected a city of snow, and occupied themselves in paying 
 visits to the white men, when not engaged in killing seals 
 or trapping deer. The way in which they approach seals 
 is somewhat amusing. The hunter lays himself flat on his 
 face upon the ice, and, by a series of motions, resembling 
 those of the unsuspecting animal that sits enjoying the 
 winter sun beside its ice-hole, approaches it with such seal- 
 like grace that the animal is actually deceived into the 
 belief that a friend desires his company, and, with commend- 
 able politeness, approaches to meet him. When near enough, 
 the deceiver jumps to his feet, and the deceived bolts for 
 his hole, but is generally intercepted and slain. The 
 women are said to be particularly aufait at this work, and 
 on such occasions arm themselves with a stout club with 
 which to knock the seals on the nose. Deer were taken by 
 the natives in pits dug in the snow, over which a thin cake 
 of snow was spread ; over this the deer walked, and were 
 precipitated to the bottom of the hole. Wolves were also 
 taken in this way. 
 
 Having recruited themselves at Fort Hope for some days, 
 preparations were now made for another journey along the 
 western shore of Melville Peninsula as far as the Straits of 
 the Fury and Hecla. On this occasion Dr. Rae was accom- 
 panied by four of his men, who each carried a load of 70 
 lbs. weight, while the doctor himself carried his books, 
 instruments, &c, which weighed altogether about 40 lbs. 
 
400 FROM BAD TO WORSE. [{J*J 
 
 Some of the party who were to remain behind, accompanied 
 them to the shores of the bay, which they reached on the 
 16th of May, and then, bidding adieu to their comrades, 
 commenced their journey. 
 
 Bad as the walking had been in their former expedition, 
 it was nothing to what they experienced now. As soon as 
 they had rounded a cape, designated Cape Thomas Simpson, 
 after the distinguished arctic traveller of that name, the 
 land turned to the eastward, and the walking became 
 shockingly disagreeable. The whole shore was indented 
 with deep, narrow inlets, which were so packed with rough 
 and jagged masses of ice, that it cost the travellers many a 
 deep sigh and ludicrous scramble. " At one moment," 
 writes the energetic leader of the band, " we sank nearly 
 waist-deep in snow, at another we were up to our knees in 
 salt water, and then again on a piece of ice so slippery, 
 that, with our wet and frozen shoes, it was impossible to 
 keep from falling. Sometimes we had to crawl out of a 
 hole on all fours like some strange-looking quadrupeds ; at 
 other times falling backwards, we were so hampered by 
 the weight of our loads, that it was impossible to rise with- 
 out throwing them off, or being assisted by one of our 
 companions. We therefore found it better to follow the 
 shores of the inlets than to cross them, although by so 
 doing we had double the distance to go over." 
 
 At half-past three in the morning they encamped for 
 the night! if we may be allowed the somewhat paradoxical 
 expression. As usual, they constructed a snow-hut to sleep 
 in, and another in which to cook their food. The walking 
 became so bad, however, that they were ultimately obliged 
 to curb their appetites, as, had they lived on full allowance, 
 there would not have been enough food left for the return 
 journey; and as comparatively few tracks of animals were 
 seen, it was resolved on the 21st of May to content them- 
 
}^7.] DR - RAE SHOOTS A DEER. 401 
 
 selves in future with one meal per day, and that not over- 
 abundant. Truly we cannot but admire the resolution of 
 these iron-built men. It is bad enough to walk through 
 and over slush, snow, ice, gravel, and rocks, on one's head, 
 knees, neck, and shoulders (for these parts, from continual 
 falls, seem to have come in contact with the ice very nearly 
 as much as did their feet), with a full allowance of good 
 provisions; but to be under the necessity of doing this 
 with empty stomachs, is so bad, that we can find no term 
 by which to characterize it! To add to their discomforts, 
 the weather, during the greater part of the journey, was 
 stormy, and heavy showers of snow fell continually, which 
 rendered the walking, if possible, still more difficult. 
 Still, there were occasional gleams of sunshine, which 
 enabled the doctor to find his latitude and longitude, and 
 cast a pleasant glow across their desolate track; creat- 
 ing also a sympathetic gleam of sunshine in their hearts. 
 Among other pleasant things, too, there was one which 
 caused a sunny ray of hope to warm their empty stomachs, 
 and cause their longing mouths to water: this was the 
 shooting of a fine buck, which, fortunately for them, and 
 unfortunately for itself, crossed their path early on the 
 morning of the 22d. Their first shot only wounded him, 
 and he led them so long a chase that they were on the 
 point of giving it up in despair, when Dr. Rae raised his 
 rifle, and although far out of ordinary range, succeeded in 
 sending a ball through its head. This proved a seasonable 
 supply, and served to strengthen them greatly. Fuel was 
 very scarce during the whole journey, and they were fre- 
 quently under the necessity of taking their old friends — 
 the kettles of snow — to bed with them, in order to save as 
 much as possible their small supply of alcohol. 
 
 The general features of the coast along which they 
 travelled were rough and varied; being in some places 
 2c 
 
402 PROVISIONS FAIL OBLIGED TO RETURN. [}J*£ 
 
 quite level, and consisting of mud, shingle, and fragments 
 of limestone; in other parts rising into bold rocky capes 
 and headlands, and receding into deep bays and inlets, 
 which were all more or less studded with rocky islands. 
 As they advanced northwards, this became a more prominent 
 feature in the landscape; the islands becoming so numerous 
 at times, both in the bays and out to seaward, as to cause 
 them some trouble in following the proper route. A few 
 miles beyond Cape W. Mactavish, a large island of table- 
 land was seen without a single rock in situ upon it. ' It is 
 in latitude 67° 42' 22" N., and longitude 86° 30' W.; 
 \he strait that separated it from the mainland being not 
 more than a mile and a half wide. It was named after 
 his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. A few miles 
 north of this they came to a bay, on the north shore of 
 which were two strangely- shaped rocks of granite, which 
 had the appearance of an old ruin or portion of a fortress, 
 of a square form, and each of about twenty-five feet high. 
 On the 25 th they reached a bay, to which was given the 
 name of Garry, after one of the Hudson's Bay Company's 
 directors. It was the most curiously- shaped and irregular 
 in outline of any that had been seen, and was crowded with 
 islands. Five miles inland was a range of hills varying 
 from five to eight hundred feet high. The latitude here 
 was 68° 59' 15" N., and longitude 84° 48' W. 
 
 At this point the provisions began to fail, a circumstance 
 all the more to be regretted that a day or two would have 
 brought them to the Straits of the Fury and Hecla. 
 
 On the 25th Dr. Rae had left two of his men behind, for 
 the purpose of procuring some venison, while he and the 
 other two advanced with a small stock of provisions. As 
 this was now nearly finished, they could only advance half 
 a night farther ; so, leaving another of the men behind, the 
 doctor pressed forward with the remaining one, and found 
 
ls£ 7 B ] CONCLUSION OF THE SURVEY. 403 
 
 himself, on the morning of the 28th of May, on the south 
 shore of a large bay, from which he obtained a distinct view 
 of the coast for about twelve miles. To the most distant 
 visible point was given the name of Cape Ellice, after one 
 of the directors of the company. It lies in latitude 69° 
 42' K, longitude 85° 8' W. The bay was named after 
 the celebrated Sir Edward Parry, and the headland on 
 which they stood was called Cape Crozier. From Cape 
 Ellice the Straits of the Fury and Hecla could not be dis- 
 tant more than ten miles ; but from want of provisions, it 
 was impossible to proceed; so Dr. Rae and his man took 
 formal possession of their discoveries, and, once more, 
 turned their faces homeward. 
 
 Thus terminated the discoveries of 1846-47, which have 
 left but a few links of the chain incomplete. The few miles 
 yet unsurveyed between Cape Ellice and the Straits of the 
 Fury and Hecla, are scarcely worth speaking of as un- 
 known ground; since, from the nature of the coast, and the 
 immense extent of the neighbouring sea, there can be no 
 doubt that they consist of a line of coast similar to that 
 already traversed by Dr. Rae. The only portion of the 
 North American coast that now remains to be surveyed is 
 that which lies between Rae's farthest western, and Simp- 
 son's farthest eastern discoveries, comprehending a space 
 of about one hundred miles ; which, though not great in 
 extent, has occasioned more dispute perhaps than any 
 other part of the coast ; as, within this terra incognita lies, 
 either the isthmus which connects, or the strait which flows 
 between, Boothia Felix and the mainland. 
 
 During the homeward journey nothing of particular in- 
 terest occurred. It was but a repetition of the same rough 
 walking, snow-hut building, neck- or- nothing scrambling, 
 and short commons, that had characterized their advance 
 northward; with, now and then, an incident, chiefly of a 
 
404 SEVERITY OF THE JOUKNEY. [ "Jjj^ 
 
 ludicrous kind, which served to enliven the way. On one 
 occasion their snow-house, owing to the increasing power 
 of the sun, gave way, and proved its evanescent character 
 by tumbling down about their ears ; and a few days after- 
 wards the same melancholy instance of decay took place 
 while they were sitting at supper. Dr. Rae speaks of this 
 journey as being the most fatiguing he had ever undergone. 
 He had often walked on snow shoes, with a day's provisions, 
 axe, and blanket, on his back, forty, fifty, and on one 
 occasion sixty-five miles; but this out-did all his former 
 experience. This, doubtless, was as much owing to the 
 want of food as anything else; for he speaks of his belt 
 coming in six inches during the journey! The whole 
 party, however, seem to have enjoyed wonderfully good 
 spirits in the midst of these hardships, and the only 
 time they were fairly floored, and induced to grumble 
 at their fate, was when they ran short of tobacco, and had 
 to retire to rest after the day's toil without the comfort of 
 a soothing pipe. 
 
 On the 9th of June the travellers once more arrived at 
 Fort Hope. Here everything was found in a prosperous 
 condition. The stores were loaded with venison, the house, 
 though somewhat damaged in consequence of the immense 
 weight of snow which had accumulated on its roof in spite 
 of all efforts made to prevent it, was still in good repair; 
 and the weather began to give indubitable indications of 
 the speedy departure of aged winter, and the hilarious 
 advent of youthful spring. 
 
 In narrating the progress of events in these regions of 
 our world, we feel that it is necessary occasionally to check 
 the imaginations of those readers who, having passed their 
 days in the sunny regions of the south, or in the more 
 equable climates of the temperate zones, will naturally 
 form erroneous conceptions of things, if not sometimes 
 
Jtr 
 1847 
 
 ■ ] INDICATIONS OF SPRING. 405 
 
 reminded of the peculiarities of the seasons in the icy north ; 
 and it may not be out of place here to state, that the indi- 
 cations of approaching spring, of which we have made 
 mention, were not the chirping of birds among the budding 
 trees, or the trickling of rills among the green meadows. 
 It was June, and well might the incautious reader imagine 
 such things ; but we have already said it is necessary to 
 check this erroneous tendency of the imagination. The 
 wide sea still presented its cold, solid surface of ice, in pro- 
 tracted defiance of the sun. Snow covered the landscape, 
 and hung in masses on the drooping willows. Water, 
 except in the profound depths of the laboriously excavated 
 waterbole, was unknown; and all around, above, below, 
 was winter — cold, obdurate, adamantine winter! The only 
 signs of the approach of spring were the increasing power 
 of the sun, and consequent warmth of the atmosphere, and 
 softening of the surface of the snow ; the occasional falling 
 of a drop of water from an icicle — an event full of interest 
 to those who know how painfully long an icicle retains a 
 dry point in these climes ; the apparition of an adventurous 
 sand-piper, and the cackle of a solitary laughing- goose. 
 
 These and similar occurrences increased and became 
 more frequent every day, though it was long ere a spot of 
 verdant green refreshed their eyes, and brought to remem- 
 brance other lands and bygone days. Dr. Rae mentions 
 in his journal, that on the 21st of June the ice on the lakes 
 was still four feet thick, though very porous and unsafe. 
 
 On the 13th, divine service was read, and thanks 
 returned to God for His protection throughout the winter, 
 and during the late journey. 
 
 During the latter part of this month the weather was 
 exceedingly stormy and variable, but the destruction of 
 winter's power continued to progress rapidly, and they 
 finally deserted their dwelling, which had become disa- 
 
406 HONESTY OF THE NATIVES. [JJj? 
 
 greeable from the thawing and consequent dampness of the 
 clay, of which it was chiefly formed, for the less substantial 
 but more agreeable habitation of a tent. Esquimaux con- 
 tinued to visit and trade with them from time to time, sup- 
 plying them with seal- skin boots, and other articles of 
 savage clothing. It is recorded to the honour of these 
 poor creatures, that they were not guilty of stealing during 
 all the transactions they had with the party — a vice which 
 characterizes, more or less, all the other tribes on the 
 North American coast. One incorrigible rascal, however, 
 annoyed them by his depredations. This was Ooligbuck's 
 son, who not only appropriated all the tobacco belonging to 
 the men on which he could lay hands, but cleared off all 
 the buttons from their trousers, and consummated his 
 wickedness by twice opening his father's bale and eating 
 the old man's sugar. 
 
 On the 23d the sun was seen at midnight, his lower 
 limb touching the high grounds to the northward; but the 
 weather still continued cold, notwithstanding the advanced 
 state of the season, and it was not till the end of July that 
 the ice on the bay began to give way before the gushing 
 torrents that issued from the swollen current of North Pole 
 River. Out at sea it looked firm and white as ever. 
 
 The 25th of July was the anniversary of their arrival at 
 Repulse Bay, which appeared in a very different garb at 
 that time. Dr. Rae remarks, that " last summer at this 
 date there was no ice to be seen in Repulse Bay ; the snow 
 had nearly all disappeared, and the various streams had 
 shrunk to their lowest level. Now there was not a pool of 
 water in the bay, except where the entrance of a river or 
 creek had worn away or broken up the ice for a short dis- 
 tance. There was much snow on the ground in many 
 places, and most of the streams were still deep and rapid." 
 
 To add to this incongruous jumble of summer and winter, 
 
i&S] BOULDER- STONES ON THE ICE. 407 
 
 heat and cold, the mosquitoes made their appearance; 
 " but this," says Rae, " I was not sorry for, as the Esqui- 
 maux said that the ice in the hay would soon break up 
 after these tormentors made their appearance.' ' 
 
 About this time Dr. Rae observed that a number of 
 large boulder- stones made their appearance on the top of 
 the ice in the bay. " I was much puzzled," says he, "to 
 make out how they came there. They could not have 
 fallen from the shore, as the beach was sloping at the 
 place, nor had they been carried in by drift ice of the pre- 
 vious season. The only way that I could account for it 
 was this : At the commencement of winter, the ice, after 
 acquiring considerable thickness, had become frozen to the 
 stones lying on the bottom, and raised them up when the 
 tide came in. The stones would get gradually enclosed in 
 the ice, as it grew thicker by repeated freezings, whilst by 
 the process of evaporation, which goes on very rapidly in 
 spring, the upper surface was continually wasting away, so 
 that in June or July there was little of the first formed ice 
 remaining; and thus the stones, which at first were on the 
 under surface of the ice, appeared on the top. This may 
 perhaps in some measure account for boulders, sand, shells, 
 &c. being sometimes found where geologists fancy they 
 ought not to be." 
 
 A severe storm arose on the 10th of August, accompa- 
 nied by rain and snow. It had the happy effect of creating 
 great havoc among the ice in the bay, which, when it 
 abated, presented a clear sea as far as the point. All was 
 now bustle and preparation for sea. The boats were over- 
 hauled and got ready; one of the anchors and chain were 
 missed, and at last it was recollected that they had been 
 placed on a spot of ground which, at an earlier period of 
 the previous year, was exposed to view, but was now buried 
 under a mass of ice eight feet thick! Out of this tomb it 
 
408 FAREWELL TO FORT HOPE. [^ 
 
 was speedily dug, and removed to the boat. The natives 
 crowded round them at seeing these vigorous preparations 
 for departure, and Dr. Rae, in the fulness of his heart, 
 began to distribute among them all the files, knives, and 
 axes that could be conveniently spared. The weather con- 
 tinued to improve rapidly. Nibitabo was despatched to 
 procure venison for the voyage, and succeeded in shooting 
 two young deer, while St. Germain and Mineau set the 
 nets for a supply of salmon; and, on the 12th of August, 
 all being got ready, the boats were launched, and the party 
 floated once more on the salt sea. Dr. Rae was about to 
 distribute among the Esquimaux their spare kettles and 
 some hoop iron, before taking final leave of them, when it 
 was discovered that one of the boat's compasses was miss- 
 ing. Search was made, but no compass was to be found. 
 At last it was discovered under some heather, where it had 
 been concealed by one of the women. The farewell gifts 
 were then distributed, and some of the men appeared to be 
 really sorry at parting, wading into the water to shake 
 hands with the doctor as the boat moved slowly from the 
 shore. 
 
 A light air of N.E. wind carried them slowly from the 
 desolate scene of their recent home; and, leaving Repulse 
 Bay to the swarthy hunters of the walrus and the seal, 
 they shaped their course for York Fort, at which place 
 they arrived on the 6th of September 1847, having been 
 absent nearly fifteen months in the dark and stormy regions 
 of the north. 
 
 The northern coasts of America were not again visited 
 from the landward side until the year 1848, when the 
 increasing anxiety regarding the fate of the gallant 
 veteran, Sir John Franklin, induced Government to 
 despatch an overland searching expedition under the 
 
1848, '49, '50.] THE LAST LAND EXPEDITION. 409 
 
 command of Sir John Richardson. Dr. Rae was chosen 
 as a fitting companion to the well-known colleague of 
 Franklin in his former voyages ; and in March 1848 they 
 sailed from Liverpool, and proceeded through the United 
 States and Canada to the scene of their operations at the 
 mouth of the Mackenzie. As the ground over which they 
 travelled, however, is the same with that explored by 
 former discoverers, the details of whose exploits have been 
 already recounted in this volume, it is not necessary to do 
 more than say that, during the years 1848, '49, and '50, 
 Drs. Richardson and Rae made a minute but unsuccess- 
 ful search for the missing ships along the various parts 
 of the arctic coast, where it was considered probable they 
 might have been wrecked. A short account of these jour- 
 neys, along with a concise and graphic description of the 
 various searching expeditions sent out from time to time, 
 will be found in " Polar Seas and Regions." 
 
 The little spot of unknown territory which has already 
 cost the British nation so much, is soon to be surveyed, we 
 understand, by Dr. Rae, whose fitness for the object has 
 been amply attested by his energetic and successful explo- 
 rations in 1846. Should he be successful, a question of 
 considerable importance will be finally settled, and the 
 narrative of his travels and exploits in the regions of per- 
 petual ice and snow will form another chapter in the 
 interesting annals of arctic story. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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 Honesty the Best Policy. 
 
 Who Direct3 our Steps? 
 
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 Lucy Roberts. 
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 Jane Scott. 
 
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16 T. NELSON AND SONS, LONDON AND EDINBURGH. 
 
 SABBATH STORIES FOR LITTLE READERS. 
 
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 With Frontispiece and Picture Cover. 
 The Arthur Family. Mary Evans. 
 
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 With Frontispiece and Beautiful Gilt Cover. 
 
 Sarah and Laura. 
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 WiUiam Bartlett 
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 Alfred Singleton. 
 
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 Helen Maurice. Ellen Hart. 
 
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 Just Ready, a series of beautiful 
 
 PICTURE REWARD CARDS, 
 
 Each containing a Hymn and a neat Engraving. 
 
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 U 1 
 
 NEW PICTURE BOOKS FOR GHILDREN. 
 
 ■NCLE TOM'S PICTURE BOOK. In verse. Dedicated, by permission, to 
 Her Grace the Duchess of Sutherland. Small Quarto, price Cd. 
 
 A most pleasing and happy adaptation of the leading incidents in Mrs. Stowe's interesting 
 work to the understanding and tastes of the youngest readers. It is admirably flitted to prove 
 a favourite in the nursery library, and no higher recommendation can be needed for it than 
 this, that the poems which constitute its chief features are from the pen of the gifted poetess, 
 Kiss Frances Browne. 
 
 SIMPLE HANS, AND OTHER FUNNY PICTURES AND STORIES. 
 Numerous Engravings. Small Quarto, price 6d. 
 
 This is one of the most humorous books ever published for the nursery, while at the same 
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