m LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. €^pr 3 l^'iop^rig^i l|u UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. \ WUIIOFTHE^T.ELMO'^ FROM THE NUTMEG STATE TO THE GOLDEN GATE 1883 ^ visit the terrible whirlpool where the daring 37 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. Webb went down yesterday. From thence to the Burning Spring, at the head of the upper rapids, all is awfully grand. The illuminated fountains at evening in Prospect park are very beautiful. Our return to Hamilton, Ont., brings our record of miles up to 834. We find our friend John E. Parker, formerly of Meri- den, at present superintendent of the Meriden Britannia company's extensive branch factories located here. Stephen M. Russell and Charles C. Foot, formerlv of Meriden, also came to meet us at the depot. It is a great pleasure thus to meet old friends. En route again, speeding through the provinces towards Michi- gan, the party beguiles the time with games and conundrums ; some of the latter were original and occasioned much mirth. We are passing through a country at once presenting indications of newness and age. We find at London, Ont., more railroad cars than any of us ever saw at once. We meet wonderfully long trains of cattle. The weather is still cool FOR T ED WARD FERR Y. and dust is not troubling us. The presentation of an engraved napkin ring this afternoon called out peals of laughter. Our cars are so large that the entire party can easily be accom- modated in either. We are notified when there's fun ahead. The engraving upon this ring was done on the train. It is unique. This is de- cidedly a happy party, enjoying each passing hour. At last we reach Sarnia, on the river St. Clair. At Fort Edward our train is run out to an immense ferry boat. Seventy-two cars crossed in less than one hour. One hundred and eight cars can be ferried over per hour, each hour in the day. Just as we start across we are favored with a visit from W. H. Pettibone, general superintendent of Chicago and Grand Trunk railroad, accompained by R. Luttrell, superintendent at this point. The general superintendent came up from Chicago to meet us. We are promised every attention. Mr. Luttrell invited the entire party to ascend to the upper deck and directed attention to the 39 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. chief points of interest "as we sailed." He has also referred to our Itinerary, and offers on our return trip a fishing expedition. He will fur- nish us with fine boats and all necessary tackle. At last having bidden the cross of St. George adieu we salute the beautiful stars and stripes. What loads of fun. We celebrate the occasion with games which make the roof ring. If hearty laughter promotes digestion, then good-bye dyspepsia. One half the entire width of the car being cleared we organize a grand ball, our useful companion Mr. Manning as prompter. There is no lack of exercise. We have room for eight couples and spectators. Among the musical instruments, quite an attraction is a tin pan and a shoe played with rare skill by His Honor Sir Knight Doolittle. Sir Knight Perkins also shows remarkable proficiency in his great skillet and knuckles act. We pro- pose to organize a minstrel troup, San Fran- cisco minstrels, jr. 40 COURT OF J C ST ICE. The announcement is made that the ladies' car is ready, and bidding them adieu we pro- ceeded to open court. Case follows case, and when Sir Knight Judge Coe comes in as an interested party, his honor the mayor occupies the wool-sack and dispenses "justice." The decisions of this court ought to go on record. There seems to be considerable chance-ry about it. Business is rushed and the docket cleared before turning in for the night. We are on a special train again with general superintendent Pettibone. St. Elmo is whirl- ed in advance of the regular, over the level line, a mile a minute. Great spikes, what a spin ! The speed is exciting. We can't sleep much, but most of us are a little ahead on sleep. The morning of the 27th shows us the eastern sky glowing as if it were the concave of a huge pearly shell. The air is delicious and we make ready for Chicago. The country is mainly a vast plain, the houses generally small. As we near Chicago we 41 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. note the strange custom of planting a single row of trees around a small plot, enclosing a house and barn. These are mainly poplars and look lonesome in the hundreds of shrubless acres. Other trees grow finely. The dark rich foliage is proof that the entire region might be made a veritable garden of Eden. Near the city, cab- bage patches are seen by the square mile. There's a pretty shepherdess leaning on her mop. But I must stop, for here is Chicago. Our route has crossed the state of Michigan and the upper portion of Indiana. 42 BRAIDWOOD. CHAPTER V. Hotel on Wheels, July 27. At Chicago we are met by Mr. James Charlton, general passenger and ticket agent of the Chicago and Alton railroad, and Mr. John M. Gates, general traveling agent of the same road, both residents of Chicago. These gentlemen will accompany our party over their railroad to Kansas City. They had set aside one of their luxurious dining palace cars and invited the knights and their ladies to a sumptuous repast. They have also put into our lockers a fine present for the party. We are off during a shower which settles the dust question effectually. In crossing the state of Illinois we pass through Braidwood, where the Diamond mine disaster occurred recently. It remains to-day as at the close of the ineffectual attempts to find the bodies of the miners. The road over ■/J TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. which we pass has a branch of loo miles run- ning through the coal district. The Chicago and Alton passes through an attractive region. There is more of variety in the landscape. We pass through fields of corn sometimes ex- tending as far as the eye can reach in either direction from the track. Trees of various kinds abound and the land is productive. East from Chicago there are no towns within forty miles on any of the railroad lines. One line runs fifty-seven miles before reaching a town. The land is not only flat but inclined to be marshv. West from Chicao^o one strikes towns at once. The management of the Chicago and Alton is in striking contrast with that of many roads. The regular train to which our cars are attached consists of an elegant smok- ing car, one day-coach, two reclining-chair cars, one Pullman sleeper and one dining-car. The reclining-chair cars are worthy of note. There is room for forty-four passengers. The chairs can be easily set at any desired angle. 44 CHICAGO AND ALT OX. For reclining, the top of the back comes for- ward, forming an easy pillow for the head. Having reclined, I am able to state that they are the easiest car seats in the world. For these this company makes to passengers no extra charge — think of that ! In each car is also a smoking room, and a cosy wash room with every convenience. The coupling is double and absolutely proof against telescoping. In the delightful reclining chair cars of the Chicago and Alton one can travel to Kansas City with less of weariness than an ordinary car would cause in one-fourth the distance. The dinins; car is the prettiest and most complete I ever saw. The railroad managers here know how to do things. Near Bloomington the country becomes a little rolling. Hedges of Osage orange are seen, adding materially to the attractiveness of the landscape, which is not only diversified but bright flowers are blooming along the track. The town of Normal is very pretty, 45 TOUR OF rilE ST. ELMO'S. and is the seat of the Normal schools and of the State University. It might be a beautiful town were it not for the very apparent lack of public spirit. The cars of the Chicago and Alton railroads are all built by the railroad company and the manufactories located at Bloomington are remarkable for solidity. The immensity of the company's works may be judged by the fact that their pay-roll here is over $100,000 a month. The officers of the Chicago and Alton at Bloomington, placed on our car two large crates of fruit for the party. Our ladies say that the people think a good deal of Connecticut. Six large and beautiful bouquets are also brought on board to adorn our tables. Their fragrance fills the air. Later the gentleman waiters from the Chicago and Alton dining car pin a button-hole bouquet to the coat of each Sir Knight and present one to each lady just before we are called to our even- ing repast. At Bloomington, in boring for coal, at the depth of two hundred feet, an un- 46 KAXSAS. derground river was struck. A stand pipe and pumping apparatus was erected and pipes to distribute water. It is of excellent quality and ample in quantity. At Greenville we dis- cover a huge hill of refuse from the coal mines on fire ; a case of spontaneous combustion. From Itinerary. " The Chicago and Alton railroad is the short line between Chicago and Kansas City, and is equipped with the finest cars in the world. Leaving Chicago the road traverses some of the most prosperous parts of Illinois and Missouri, passing through the following cities : Joliet, Bloomington and Jacksonville in Illinois; Louisiana, Mexico, Glasgow and Marshall in Missouri. The Mississippi River is crossed at Louisiana, and the Missouri River at Glasgow, Mo., by magnificent iron bridges. " Kansas City is a large and busy city of about 65,000 inhabitants, on the Missouri side of the line, and one of the most important rail- road centers in America. Some of its srreat 47 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. business enterprises, like the great trans-con- tinental railway line which stretches westward, owe their existence largely to Boston capital. While riding through Kansas the traveler finds that many familiar New England names have been bestowed upon towns by the way, one of the earliest of which is Lawrence, so called in honor of Amos Lawrence, of Boston. Topeka, the capital of Kansas, is 66 miles west of Kansas City," -The main line of the A., T. cSl S. F. R. R. extends a distance of no less than 486 miles within the borders of this great State. The surface of the State embraces in alternation broad, level valleys and high, rolling prairies, with a gradual rise towards the Rocky Moun- tains. The eastern section is well settled and is devoted largely to wheat and corn. The western section, with the neighboring parts of Colorado and Nebraska, is given up chiefly to cattle grazing. Dodge City, 369 miles w^est of Kansas City, is the chief center of the cattle 4S COLORADO. business. The route in passing out of Kansas enters Colorado, which it traverses for a con- siderable distance. The Rocky Mountains here come into view." 49 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. CHAPTER VI. Hotel on Wheels, July 28. We crossed the Illinois river in the early hours of the night, and about midnight were passing over the wonderful bridge spanning the broad Mississippi. Several of the Sir Knicrhts stood in the doors of the cars to look upon the mighty " Father of waters." The morning sun smiles on the hills and dales of Missouri. The cars free from dust, the morn- ing cool and delicious, and the sweet sleep of the night prepares us for the heat which the noon-hour may perhaps have in store. We speed along the iron road towards Kansas City. Glendale is passed, where a short stop enables us to look "upon the water tank showing the bullet marks of the Jesse James fight. Here the train was in the clutches of the gang. All seem to enjoy the immunity which Jesse James' retirement from business affords. ST. ELMO OF PA OLA. At Independence a committee from St. Elmo Commandery No. 22, of Paola, Kan., came on board. Introductions are in order, and on reaching Kansas City we meet the dele- gation sent to this point : Sir D. M. Ferguson, E. C, Sir J. F. Donahue, Gen. Sir H. C. Jones, C. G., Sir John Wherrell, Prel., Sir J. B. Jobson, S. W., Sir J. S. Beason, J. W., Judge Sir W. R. Wagstaff, Sir A. K. Sellers, Sir J. W. Rumby, and Sir J. L. Pettyjohn. With these fraters is Hon. Sir Knight Plumb, United States Senator from Kansas, and a warm friend of Hon. Sir Knight the Senator, O. H. Piatt, of our own city. A telegram reaches us here from E. Sir Knight H. Wales Lines congratulating the two St. Elmo com- manderies on this meeting. We are escorted to a breakfast in the immense building which is the depot for seventeen great lines. Then the Sir Knights and their ladies repair at once to our cars, accompained by Sir C. H. Wood, general agent of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. and Sir H. E. Moss, passenger and land agent. The speeches are short, but the feehng is deep and the friendships here cemented strong. The St. Ehnos of Paola, Kansas, came forty- three miles yesterday to meet us at the threshold of their state. They are named after us and the two commandries feel the deepest interest each in the other's welfare. Good-byes are said, one Paola Sir Knight puts it thus in Missouri parlance : " It's hard for jou'uns and we'uns to part, When you'uns know that 30iruns have got we'iinses' lieart." Senator Plumb accompanies us on our trip, and Sir Knight William H. Decker, of Las Vegas commandery, also comes among us at this point. We are met here by Sir Knight Max Frost, eminent commander of Santa Fe commandery, who is chairman of a committee to extend to us the hospitalities of his com- mandery. This Sir Knight also becomes a member of our party. He is Register of the United States land office. It is a pleasant THE KA W. party swiftly skirting the shore of the Kaw and tearing away towards the wonderful corn-fields of eastern Kansas, corn so high as to hide a mounted horseman and fields too extensive to limit by the sweep of the eye. The town of Meriden is on the line of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad, not far from Kansas City. Kansas City is on the south side of the Missouri river. After leaving this city, we cross the line into the great state of Kansas. We are peculiarly fortunate in the selection of the route. The Kansas City people declare unhesitatingly the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad is decidedly the best of the seventeen lines which radiate from this center ; steel rails throughout its length, 2289 miles, stone ballast- ing, best cars, best hotels on the route, which by the way are all owned by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, best eating-houses, and Manning says the best looking set of men in the world. Judging by the specimens seen, S3 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. including our friend Manning, the facts bear out the assertion. " He is just as good as he looks, too." " So say we all of us — so say we all." We admire the new depot at Lawrence, the historic city. How fertile the soil is ! Sir Knight Mather says he has seen corn enough to feed the world. It is a delightful land, low hills heavily timbered, level fields which are gigantic gardens, and fruit trees in their lusty youth surprising their owners by the size of their productions. We watch a diminutive ferry taking its precious load over the muddy waters of the Kaw (or Kansas) river ; a broad scow, on board a vehicle with its single horse, the mother calmly seated, carefully shielding her darling from the rays of the sun (a future statesman, perhaps president, they all come from the West), standing at the fore, evidently ready to do and to dare, two little folks cud- dled together near the wheel, and the strong man with brawny bare arms wielding a pole longer than the spire of the Corner church. J4 rOPEKA. Now we sweep by fields again with corn to the right of us, corn to the left of us. " Pretty' tall corn." At Topeka, Mr. Manning points out the extensive works of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad. Topeka, i,ooo feet above sea level, has a population of 20,000, half of them said to be good looking women. All the state offices are located here, with fine public buildings. We have lost the trees; the heavily wooded hills we saw further east are not to be found. It is a treeless country except so far as a few are planted here and there. Near Osage City we come upon the coal regions. In this section it is found near the surface and is a dull looking, soft, smoky fuel. This sort of country must make a man long sighted, yet it is beautifully rolling, and corn and then more corn. Lon Jeffcry says the sight of this goodly land elicited from good brother Joseph Morse the words "The Sheen of Queba." We are shown by Senator Plumb 55 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. the farm of his brother, 2,000 acres, lying on both sides of the track. At long intervals some railroad conductor steps in. We note they each remove the hat. Some one remarks, " What a contrast ! Here they take off the hat ; at home they come in with a club." Emporia, with its four railroads, its beauti- ful wide streets and its substantial buildings, is a lively town. It possesses for us a peculiar interest, being the home of Senator Plumb, who has chatted so pleasantly while riding sixty miles in our car. He kindly points out his fine residence at our request, and shaking hands all round bids us God-speed and good- bye. We do not see any lonesome hay stacks. They are placed in families, immense stacks, frequently thatched, bunched together, looking in the distance like a cluster of great brown tents. Beyond Emporia the prairies widen a\vay interminably. Stony City presents a lively J6 " THING OF BE A UTY." sight. Its stock yards are full of colts ; hun- dreds of them. On the fences are long rows of chaps, and others standing picturesquely around, bent on trade. The cars of the St. Elmo's become immediately the great attrac- tion and all necks are stretched and twisted to get a sight. Just beyond, the prairie-plows are turning up the furrows black as muck. The regular excursion ticket furnished by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, is a " thing of beauty." It is in book form bound at the end and illuminated with Knight Templar emblems in gold ; on the covers an original design in brilliant colors giving a view of the Golden Gate with the legend, " An ocean sounding welcome to the Knights." The loading of a wagon by machinery in a grain field now attracts attention. We see broad wheat fields, also large herds of cattle. One of the ladies quotes, " A thousand cattle on a hill." Prairie chickens put in an appearance. Near the streams a few plover and a few long- S7 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. legged blue heron have been seen. Windmills are everywhere. Gangs of plow boys seated on the wheeled plows drawn by three horses, make things lively where the "tickled soil" will shortly laugh with harvest burden. Think of straight furro.ws more than a mile in length. We have passed Florence, at which point the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe enters "the happy hunting grounds." We are told that prairie chickens and quail are abundant in the fields, and the streams and small lakes abound in duck and geese. " Twenty minutes for refreshments," the well known cry ! We are at Newton, a lively town of 5,000 inhabitants. Our friend Manning had telegraphed ahead and invited the entire party to dine. The dining room is one of many owned by this tip- top company and is as nicely fitted up as the dinner is complete. So our cooks and waiters are given a respite while the favor accorded the party is enjoyed. The terrible heat proph- esied for this day's ride has not cost us any INTO COLORADO. 4. appreciable discomfort. This little town has its commandery, Newton, No. 9 ; eighty mem- bers ! A delegation appears and welcomes us. We exchange hasty greetings and speed away tow^ard the Golden Gate. Beyond Newton the level reaches are astonishers. We can see twenty miles aw^ay, the surface like a floor, presenting the various lines of immense tracts of different crops, all fertile as a garden. Near Newton we pass the first emigrant wagon, suggestive of the olden time. Hutchinson, the county seat, has a remark- ably wide street, which presents a fine appear- ance. We notice door yard fences, which are quite an innovation. Why are not all the streets laid out wide ? Surely there's room enough. At Nickerson we strike the Arkansas river. The repair shops of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe employ a large number of men. It is a full grown town just five years old last September. Here is a very large round-house strongly built of stone. A telegram from Mr. 59 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. W. F. White, general passenger" and ticket agent, to Mr. Manning, acquaints us with the pleasing fact that Mr. Charles T. Parsons has received telegraphic instruction to accompany the party on our return from Denver to Peublo and Santa Fe or Deming. We ride beside the Arkansas river for a distance of 700 miles into Colorado. The ladies are enjoying the long journey with the keenest relish. No one is weary and all are delighted with the' " solid comfort " this mode of traveling affords. 60 LA JUNTA. CHAPTER VII. Hotel on Wheels, July 29. The gray dawn discloses level plains, with here and there on the right a silvery sugges- tion of the flowing Arkansas. Just as the glowing disk pours floods of golden glory over all, we note the slackening speed, and lo, La Junta. The little place is very pretty. Two tiny lawns between the track and the neatly painted depot, give the impression of oases really re- freshing. Several of the buildings near are the property of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe, and are neat and pretty. Here they have also built a large stone round-house. Just beyond the station we are given hints of coming changes. A perpendicular bank is passed, and further on an infant canon has been suddenly stopped in the midst of its gyratory convolutions. We are informed that 61 rOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. these sand dunes and plains need only irriga- tion. Between La Junta and Pueblo the principal productions seem to be sage brush, cactus, jack-rabbits and prairie dogs. Judge of our surprise on learning that here is excellent grazing ground. In fact, on many ranches there are large herds. One can hardly believe the fine condition of the cattle and horses is due to the quality of the " feed." Our break- fast is served and at an early hour we reach Pueblo. This city must be seen to be appre- ciated. We shall return to it. At this point we are met by- Sir Knight J. B. Kilbourn and wife, who present our ladies with two mag- nificent bouquets. Sir Knight Kilbourn was formerly resident at Middletown, Conn., and is a personal friend of many of our party. He was at one time Grand Generalissimo of Con- necticut. With him also came an eminent Sir Knight, Colonel M. H. Fitch, Grand Com- mander of Colorado. He is president of the 62 THE " SCENIC ROl'TEr Stock Growers' National Bank ; also Sir Knight J. W. Stanton, Past Grand Commander, a congressman and a personal friend of Sir Knight H. Wales Lines. He is postmaster at Pueblo ; also Sir Knight H. N. Banks, E. C., of Pueblo commandery. Sir Knight J. B. Kilbourn and wife join us for a few days, and we are notified of a reception awaiting us on our return. Our ride during the night was a restful one, the line being level, straight and smooth. One Sir Knight said this morning, " The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe is the best railroad I have ever seen." I believe it. We leave for Denver over the Denver and Rio Grande, known as "the Scenic Route." What these words mean, only those know who have looked upon these scenes. Pike's Peak lifts its snow- clad summit through the blue mists and we begin to realize that we are far from home. This mountain is 14,216 feet above the sea- level — almost three miles in an upright line. 6? rOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. Pueblo is 4,713 feet in altitude and the grade is up until' we reach the " Divide," at which point we are more than a thousand feet higher than the top of Mount Washington. I have spoken of the rich, nutritious quality of the grass. Sir Knight Kilbourn states that one hundred weight of it is equal to three of east- ern grass. Sir Knight John W. Coe casually remarks that " the cream is a thick coat before they have done milking." The day is cool and the car windows are all open, yet no dust, owing to the recent rains. Colorado Springs is a lovely place, and is a temperance town. Not a drop of liquor is sold and none can be, the land being deeded conditionally in this regard. The Antler house is a very fine building and splendidly located. Here at the "Divide" is a fine artificial lake with a fountain playing in its center. It is the highest point. We have climbed 3,000 feet since leaving Pueblo, and the city of Denver is 2,000 feet lower. A stop of twenty minutes 64 THE ROCKIES. enables us to wash our hands in this lofty little lake. A run of a single rod to reaeh the start- ing train makes one pant, for 7,200 feet is pretty well up for breath. The atmosphere is dry. We have on our way passed such queer little houses, some adobe, some board shanties, some log huts, all small, little queer houses from which the family step out into scenes of grandeur. From Colorado Springs the scenery is un- deniably fine. We cannot take our eyes from the new beauties disclosed at every turn. Now and then fantastic forms appear; huge masses, some near, some a score of miles away ; strange, weird, castellated rocks. The air is marvelously transparent. In the blue of the far away haze, great chains of lofty mountain peaks are piled among the clouds. Steep es- carpments, rugged canons, mighty masses like castle walls, over and among which black shadows of fleeting clouds lose themselves in the blacker shades of beetling cliffs. A rain 65 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. Storm sweeps down the mountain sides miles upon miles away. The nearer foot-hills are clad in their verdure while the foreground, brilliant with many-hued flowers, swarms with saucy little prairie dogs. Close to the track a mountain stream winds along with its margin of cotton-wood and pine. At last the wonder- ful gateway to the Garden of the Gods comes into view. We reach Denver on time and take carriages for St. James hotel. Here we rest. Sunday in this w^onderful city is a surprise to us. The places of business are all closed excepting the Jew stores. Liquor saloons are in full blast, yet the streets are quiet. The churches are all well filled. The evening service is enjoyed by the Sir Knights and their ladies. Denver is a marvel. A score of years and a wild, lonely spot, becomes a beautiful city of 70,000 inhabi- tants, with magnificent buildings. The rail- road depot built of lava stone and light sand- stone trimmings, extorted the admiration of 66 AT DENVER Vanderbilt. We find by experience that slight exertion here calls for rest, but one becomes readily accustomed to the elevation. On Monday some of the party will visit the Exposition buildings and all go sight-seeing. Senator Tabor, Sir Knight M. Splangler, sheriff of Denver, Sir C. H. Gunn, formerly of Danbury, Connecticut, Sir R. M. Wallace, General of South Carolina Commandery of Charleston, S. C, Sir D. Downing, vice-presi- dent of the Invincible Mining Company, Eminent Sir C. H. Sherman, Commander of Dunkirk Commandery, of Dunkirk, N. Y., Eminent Sir G. W. Bence, Eminent Com- mander of Greencastle, Ind., and very many other Sir Knights are met. The best trip of a single day is through the Clear Creek Canon to Central City. On Monday we start early via the narrow gauge railroad for Central City. Leaving Denver, itself " marvelous as a dream," in a special observation car kindly furnished us, we 67 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. are gratified on learning that we are to have the company of a Sir Knight who is thorough- ly acquainted with the route. He is Past Grand Commander of Colorado — Sir Knight H. M. Orahood, an attorney of the Union Pacific and the law partner of Secretary of the Interior, Sir Knight H. M. Teller. He is Eminent Commander of Central City Com- mandery, No. 2. (Jur route crosses the Platte. We pass Argo and the famous smelting works of Senator Hill, the largest works of the kind in the world. The better class gold ores of Colorado, Montana and Idaho are shipped here and to Denver and Golden for smelting. We cross the moving Longmont train on a bridge over their track. Our course is the arc of an immense circle until we strike the rapid waters of Clear Creek. Up, up, towards Golden, with Long's and Pike's Peak in view. A pretty ranch now attracts attention. This is a Spanish word signifying a place for cattle. There are no farms here ; all are ranches. 68 CLEAR CREEK CANON. Wc reach Golden. Distance, sixteen miles, altitude, 5,710, population, 3,300. Here is a very fine Court-house. A large and elegant building also is the State School of Mines. The State Reform School is fine and sugforests our distant home. The photograph of the Grand Army is offered here for sale, and Sir Knight John Coe will take it on condition that he can have St. Elmo's. Judge of his countenance when gravely informed that the plate is broken in attempting the picture. Mr. Wooster, treasurer of Deep River Savings bank, of Connecticut, comes on the train to greet us. We are near the entrance to Clear Creek Canon. The toy railroad sweeps round a curve between high rounded mountains and in a trice we find ourselves climbing a fearful grade, the railroad winding like a serpent on a drunk in a narrow gorge amid rugged crags a thousand feet in height. All is wild, yet de- lightful. We run right straight toward a per- pendicular wall, and as we are about to strike, ,6g TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. the little locomotive pokes its nose to one side and we are whipped around a sharp curve, all on the up hill principle. We are beside a foam- ing stream which is also all the time " on a bender." How on earth did a railroad ever get lost in this narrow chasm ? At one of the stops on a siding where breath- ing room for the engine is found, some of our party jump off and go to prospecting. An old resident gleefully laughs and says with face all aglow : " It is worth a pile to see the wonder on every countenance in here." On and up we speed. Impossible curves and bends in impossible places ! Every rod a totally differ- ent view ! All grand, all wonderful. The rush of the plucky little engine mingles with the roar of the twisting cataract beside it. Nar- • row gorges at sharp angles come down every- where. The mountains try to get over our heads, and make it out. If they should fall just ahead no harm could ensue for the train wouldn't be there. The track gets tangled 70 HANGING ROCK. with the creek, and finally gets the better of it. We see the poor creek underneath. It will keep the other side of the train perhaps. We notice pretty falls, and just beyond an old ruin- ed bridge leading to a tunnel. We pass dug- outs and queer huts, and as the squirming train threatens to "get ev^en " with the engine we come across placer miners. May, 1859, saw the first of that work in this part of the country. It would be interesting to watch it, but there's too much to see. There's the engineer close to us, looking ahead by twisting his neck to see both sides of the engine at once. Hanging Rock gets right over our heads. All along the sides we keep in view wild frightened looking pines, losing their lives in a vain attempt to maintain an ex- istence. Here we pass a huge mass of rock supported by a bracing timber; it almost touches the passing car. The colors of these rocks are varied, but generally sombre. If aerial navigation permits, some future botanist 71 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. may add new beauties to his collection in this gorge. The walls close in, we strain our necks to look up and out. No room for so many in here, so the railroad struggles with the stream and at last both take u]) with the same bed. The retaining walls of the road are staunch and men are here everywhere watching it. The mountain on one side recedes, leaving a small place in the heart of which stands a strange pillar of rugged stone. The train crawls up into new wonders. We shoot around a corner of a perpendicular rock ; on the top, high in air, a lofty pine springs from its ex- treme edge. Here is a wider space with a min- er's camp. The chasm widens with sloj)ing sides. We take deep inspirations of the free air in the open space. Wonderful domes close in on one side ; then suddenly the merciless walls surround us. A sharp turn leads out to lovely open spaces between receding mountain tops, seamed and gashed by countless chasms. At 6904 feet altitude a fork in the canon sends one 73 " THEM'S MINES. tortuous railroad to Georgetown and another to Central City. A pretty depot nestles beneath the crags. Central City being a temperance town this station is said to be for lager, coal and water. The rain begins to sift down as we commence our winding way. We notice num- erous holes burrowing in the sides of the mountain. A lovely girl seated near us who says she is from Pennsylvania, parts her ruby lips and imparts the information, "Them's mines." Standing in the swift waters, three miners are washing out the gold. Flere, as we ascend, the rounded ])eaks, opens a wide expanse of sky. The sands are pitted, channeled and seamed for the precious })articles. Chinese characters appear over the doors of the log huts. Our guide informs us that the China- men live wxll. Their pay is $45 per month. They "keep house," using rice, with quantities of fine meat and vegetables and always have confections brought from China. The wash- 73 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. ing for gold pays where not previously done. The grade is steep and the rocks again close in and almost touch us on either side. Tun- nels abound, and also abandoned smelting works. The great establishments below can procure fuel while these cannot. We reach the end of placer mining ; we pass the first quartz mill. The first smelting works were put up here by Senator Hill. Golden, at the mouth of the caiion, is the outgrowth of this small beginning. General Fitz John Porter built the second works. We reach Black Hawk. It is impossible to tell where this min- ing town ends and Central City begins, yet the railroad runs four miles to Central City. It is a very high point to reach. The train is sent out on a back switch like the letter V, then another V sends us up again till we can look straight down on the three tracks, the highest 300 feet above the lower. The four miles ad- vances us only one. We are " up in the world " 8,300 feet, two thousand feet and more above 74 CENTRAL CITY. Mount Washington. The air up here does not seem to satisfy. One can get tired easily. However, when accHmated it is just as fit for hard work foundation. Up this " scarey " cHmb we were pushed. Sir Knight Orahood shows us his mountain home. Senator Hill and Secretary Teller also have homes here. We cross an iron bridge far above the houses ; a lofty trestle lifts itself right over an exten- sively worked mine. The mountain sides liter- ally honeycombed w^th mines and the railroad climbing recklessly, combine to produce a rare scene. " It's the greatest thing I ever thought of," says one Sir Knight. We find carriages in waiting which Sir Knight Orahood has provided by telegraphing. At the Teller house w^e are introduced to Sir John Best and Sir E. S. Clinton. A capital dinner is provided, and we visit the banks to look at gold. One piece worth $2,700 is in sight. Some purchase specimens, and all are kindly shown the yellow treasures. We are TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. taken to the oldest mine, "The Bobtail," so called because its original productions wrapped in a bullock's hide were drawn to the smelting works by a bobtailed ox. We walk to the ex- treme end with Sir Knight Best, half a mile in- to the bowels of the earth and 1,200 feet under the surface. Rich specimens are gathered, and on our return Sir Knight Clinton takes us through a stamp mill running one hundred stamps. Then we are conducted to his own mill which he orders stopped and his workmen clear off the sand, remove the copper sheets covered with quicksilver and show us how the amalgam is collected, and how it is retorted till the gold is obtained ready for market. Good-byes are said at last. Our walk having taken us down to the upper mouth of the canon, we take the observation car again and into the narrow, tortuous cleft madly plunges the train, with a sense of absolute security on our part. In the line drizzling rain the rugged walls reach above the clouds. The river by our 76 THE "CLOUD-BCIRST." side is a series of tumbling rapids. Down the steep incline we glide, wheeling and twining at break-neck speed. This is the rainy season of Colorado, and an exciting episode is a cloud- burst in the mountain range at our right. A side canon, which was dry on our upward trip sent down great volumes of black angry floods just as we reached the place. The track was flooded instantly and the debis floating every- where on the swift waters, called a halt. Men went ahead feeling the track. We slowly passed, the road bed showing by its dropping in places that a wash-out would necessitate re- pairs, and the track was swept away just after we passed. Safely over, we turn back to note how the clear creek is dammed up and set back by the impetuous rush across it. What a sight ! The torrents plunge amid the rocks, throwing the dashing spray afar. How the waters pile up and leap down the wild gorge ! We rush along in a mad, wild race and the engine seems to enjoy the sport. 77 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. We threaten to dash with the cataract against some beethng chff and with the angry waters we swiftly turn to meet some new obstruction. All is indescribably grand. We "took that in" just in time. Finally the lofty battlements re- cede. High, sloping cloud-capped mountains environ us ; then, underneath perpendicular walls and overhanging crags accompanied every- where by the wild torrent, we curve along un- til at last the rounded mountains dwarf to hills on either side, and so we bid adieu to Clear Creek Canon. From Itinerary. " The city of Denver lies at an altitude of 5197 feet, near the western border of the plains, within 12 miles of the Rocky Mountains, the Colorado or Front range of which may be seen for an extent of over 200 miles. The view of the snowy summits, with Pike's Peak in the southern part of the range and Long's Peak in the north, is indescribably grand. The " Queen City of the Plains " was born of the Pike's 7^ DEN VER. Peak gold excitement in 1858-9. In i860 it was a struggling camp, consisting principally of log cabins and tents. In 18 70 it had a pop- ulation of 4579 ; in 1880 of 35,719 ; and within the succeeding year over 600 buildings were erected, and the population increased to over 40,000. Its streets are regularly and hand- somely laid out ; its public and business edifices and its private residences are elegant and sub- stantial ; schools, churches and newspapers abound, and in short, Denver has every sign of thrift, enterprise, wealth and progress. The new Union Depot is one of the finest edifices for railway uses in America, and the magnifi cent new opera house, which cost $600,000, is another structure which will challenge admira- tion. " The Garden of the Gods is a park-like tract enclosed by hills, and rising from its surface are fantastic rock-forms carved by the elements of ages. The approach is through a great gateway, the massive portals of red sandstone 79 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. rising to a height of 380 feet. The view of Pike's Peak as seen through this gigantic frame is very picturesque. Within, the rock-forms are scattered about singly and in groups, rising above the astonished visitor like grim spectres." So SLWA'/S£ A T PIKE'S PEAK. CHAPTER VIII. Hotel on Wheels, August i. After forty miles of an exciting ride, mucli of it without steam, we find ourselves "at home" again. From Denver up 2,000 feet to the "Divide" two engines are required. From thence to Colorado Springs is down grade. At 5 o'clock we are placed on a side track, directly at the foot of Pike's Peak, The sky is clear and the sunset worth going a hundred miles to see. To realize the wondrous possibilities of sunset one should witness it here. The evening is devoted to a grand con- cert and ball in honor of the location. This morning is also fine, and the sunrise is beyond conception beautiful, as from the first golden gleam on the snowy peak the gorgeous change from dawn to day sweeps down the mountain side. One Sir Knight this morning hires another 81 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. to black his shoes. After blacking one, the implements disappear and the day's fun is started. We finish a capital breakfast in time to fill the carriages for a delightful drive to Manitou and the Garden of the Gods. Among the Algonquins any object of religious rever- ence or dread is called " Manitou." Gitche Manitou (the Great Spirit) is the Supreme Being. The soda springs and iron springs were well known to the Indians for their rare medicinal qualities. No wonder they named this locality Manitou. It is a region of rare wonder and full of interest. A neat little city now clusters about the Springs, with fine hotels, a large bathing establishment, and a very pretty depot. The bubbling, sparkling soda water pours up a large volume and we find it palatable. On the road to Ute Pass the iron springs are fine. Ute Pass which was a trail to Leadville dur- ing and after the building of that city, is cut along the steep face of an awful precipice with 82 WILLIAMS' CA.VO.V. a roaring stream at the foot. This place gives one a specimen of rugged grandeur. Gog and Magog Hft up their heads from the two oppo- site sides. The narrow road with its sharp curves and short bends threatens to end by a sudden plunge down to the whirling waters. We saw the beautiful rainbows which gave to the falls its name and wdiich furnish one of the attractions of the wild pass. After a fine din- ner at the Manitou House we drive through Williams' cafion, a fearful spot. The gorge is so narrow that at times it is easy to touch the sides from the wagon seat. It is a long crooked canon between queer lofty walls. You can imagine how pleasant it is when I tell you that right here where our horses draw us be- tween imprisoning rocks, a sudden cloud-burst last summer sent dow^n fifteen feet of rushing water, which little feat took only one minute. Our party climb the steep side by a sloping, zig-zag, thread-like path until a dizzy height is reached; then up a steep flight of 134 stairs TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. to the entrarnce of the celebrated cave of the winds where guides conduct us half a mile into the mountain. The cave beine recently dis- covered, its beauties are substantially intact. Here are rare stalactite formations not to be found elsewhere. Coral, alabaster, and the most wonderful cascade and fern-like forma- tions abound. In this comparatively new cave a fine room was named bv one of the proprie- tors who accompained us, " St. Elmos' Rest," by which name it will be known hereafter. The cave is dry and can easily be explored. Descending" the mountain, we rode through the wonderful "Garden of the Gods." We failed to find any garden but the gods were all in. The remarkable features of this wonder- ful spot are too well known to require de- scription at my hand. Weird shapes, wild forms, fantastic beyond any conception. Here a rock as large as a house balanced on a mere point ; there a sphynx, a buffalo, a lion or some other strange shape.- S4 LINES AND GARVEY. Glen Eyrie, further up the valley, is the resi- dence of General Palmer, and is romantic in the extreme. A ride about his extensive grounds reveals wonderful and impossible rocks sur- rounding the residence, in the heart of the grandest scenery imaginable. We drive up to the table lands of the foot-hills, and on a plain high above the surrounding country we follow for miles an old Indian race-course, straight as an arrow and level as the sea. The rare won- ders, the beauties, the glories of this day transcend all powers of language to describe. Reaching our "home on wheels," we take the train for Pueblo. While at the Manitou House we were all surprised by the familiar face of Sir Knight Captain Patrick Garvey. We also meet at Colorado Springs our good friend and com- panion Sir Knight H. Wales Lines whom we gladly greet, and from whom we receive the latest news from home. To-night we sleep en route. Last night we tarried here, and while S5 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. the Sir Knights locked every window and in cautious tones discussed cow boys and train robbers, the ladies left their car windows open and faced the situation as bold as lions. Dur- ing our trip to Pueblo, Sir Knight Lines brings into our car his friend Sir Knight Rose, of Rondout Commandry, of Rondout. N. Y., at present residing at Rock Island, 111. Our porters transform the saloon into a sleeper and we came to a halt at Pueblo for the night and a sound sleep. In the early morning of the 2d we were visited by Charles B. Kirtland and wife, who are living here. It seems strange to meet Meriden faces in such a region as this. Sir Knight Stanton, postmaster at Pueblo, goes with us to-day. We are pro- vided with a special train, narrow gauge, and are off for the Grand Canon. The day is bright and beautiful, and with our usual good fortune, recent rains constantly preceding us have laid all the dust. We approach a strange country. The rounded foot-hills are very high 86 THE ARKANSAS. and all along their summits are lofty forti- fications and ruined walls with strong castles and towers, all on a scale of unparalleled mag- nificence. A halt of a few minutes and we see on the ground fossil shells which we must get out and sample for our Scientific association at home. We pass great cattle ranches ; are whirled over arrayos where only yesterday were swollen streams; and so approach the narrow walls ahead. The bottom lands are absolutely level. The changing forms on either hand are grand and present views of varying beauty, each moment new and picturesque. Along the banks of the Arkansas we pass through fields of wild sunflowers bright with their golden crowns ; beautiful groves of cottonwood, hemmed in by lofty perpendicular walls ; long irrigated fields of growing corn, or wheat ; and then a wild tangle of reeds, flags and brilliant flowers. The swift waters of the river would afford facilities for baths, provided TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. one could find a place in which to wash on coming out. We pass a long train of ordinary slatted cattle cars laden with silver bullion and precious ores. The short, sharp screams of the little locomotive give notice to the road-men that this one is a "Wild" train. A lady on the look-out speaks : " quick, see," and all hands quickly look. An engine and two cars lie in a pile beside the track. It was a bad smash-up. The engine, a wreck, lay on its side and over it the cars all broken up. It seems a train preceding ours ran over a cow. If the animal was as badly damaged as the train, there was not even " a hide " left. We all indulge the hope that cattle will " clear the track " in future. Bunches of sage-cactus two feet in height grow all along the track. At last the valley widens with distant mountains and their rounded foot-hills. We pass pe- troleum wells — whether anyone has really struck oil here, I am unable to state. ss CANON CITY. Our good railroad friend, Mr. Manning, bade us adieu at Pueblo. We are all under ofrcat obligations to him. He has been of great service each day. We thank the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe for furnishing such a genial, capable companion. Nor is this all. Charles T. Parsons succeeds Mr. Manning. He is a general passenger agent of the same road, and joins our party to help us on our way. At Caiion City we notice the light colored stone buildings and prison walls of the State Penitentiary. Gangs of convicts are out in zebra garb, while guards with loaded rifles are closely watching. These striped fellows seem to receive marked attention. Here are also fine soda springs. Just before leaving, some of the Sir Knights post themselves on the engine and three take front seats on the cow-catcher, a position af- fording the finest chance for sight-seeing im- aginable, but it is a wild ride, as I can testify. We enter the steep mountains by a narrow TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. valley giving exactly room for the railroad and the river. Our friend Parsons supplies gog- gles to protect our eyes from cinders since the observation cars here are without a top. It seems quite a masquerade party. On our right is a perpendicular cliff over i,ooo feet high, and on the left grand lofty masses "with verdure clad." We pass caverns, lateral canons and cliffs, 2,000 feet aloft the river, and the telegraph which stretches from crag to crag, keeping us company. At one point three mighty canons meet. We sweep by a sharp curve to the left at the foot of a smooth wall of 1,500 feet. Then come such lofty piles that one cannot stop gaz- ing up. It is awfully grand, literally thousands of feet right over our heads are towering pin- nacles and ragged rocks, the walls over half a mile in height. /We spin around lofty spires where lines of red granite and gray alternate, and at last, right over the river we are all held up by powerful iron rods suspended from strong go THE ROYAL GORGE. braces placed against the opposite walls of the awful chasm. To the right of this bridge is a cleft not half a yard in width, and more than a thousand feet deep. Our ladies are in ecstacies over the wild grandeur of the Royal Gorge. This work is a triumph of engineering skill. Men were let down this yawning gulf to the , raging waters below by ropes, 1800 feet, and the cuts were made by such means. Every- thing in the canon is on a scale of immensity. Sir Knight Kelsey says, "We Americans bet- ter call Switzerland the Colorado of Europe." Having seen both, as has also Sir Knight Strong, they pronounce this more grand and imposing. Our train is stopped at the bridge and we alight to gaze. Starting again, we pass a sweeping semi-circle in the mountain, the brim dripping with many streams. On we whirl until at last we emerge into the open fields at Park Dale. The scenic beauties of the route thus far have proven a grand succession of marvels. At Park Dale we stroll about, 91 TOUR OF THE ST. ELMO'S. watching a group of goats far up the Rocky- Mountains, or picking up specimens and pre- paring for a return down through the wonder- ful Grand Caiion of the Arkansas. From Itifierary. " The Royal Gorge begins just above Canon City. The Arkansas River, here a rushing, turbulent stream, is crowded close to the rail- way bed, and the massive walls of rock grow higher and steeper. Great spire-like masses lift their summits half a mile above our heads, and seem ready to topple over upon us. The roadway follows the river in all its devious turnings, and in one place the space is so nar- row that a hanging bridge had to be thrown over a portion of the stream. The scenery at every point is grandly impressive. From Canon City to Park Dale, just below which the Royal Gorge terminates, the distance is ten miles. " The Raton Mountains, comprising one of the lateral spurs of the " Rockies," and the nat-