. ^ -^ *Vv??^% ^ ^^ /<^Xl^<- rt>- -a, ^*;g^4^^«* ■^ a'* '■/vI^^ * ^ %> ^^^/ ^^\i. °^y^^/ < .^ ,0 o V ■P r\> .-^^ 4 G^ s 1 <=> ^r> THE AMATEUR ABROAD: Till'; ]<1X-()R1) ()]- A Sizfruiiei? Tour in. .Eui'()j>e. By George W. Tryon, Jr, S^^'-^i%- Z^'?' COPYRIGHT'^-, :c// PHI LA D ELPHIA R E p R r N T E I) I- ji () M "The A \\ a t i: Coi,yrit.|it, IST;-), by (Jeoikjk W. Tkvox, Jk s-r"- iO» rHOtOW THE AMATEUR ABROAD. I. THE VOYAGE. A life on the ocean wave, And a home on the rolling deep, Where the scattered waters rage, And the winds their revels keep. On Thursday, 28th May, 1874, at 9.20 A. M., started the good steamship Illinois, from the port of Philadelphia, bound for Queenstown and Liverpool. The Illinois is a new vessel of over 3000 tons burthen, built in Philadelphia, and one of the four splendid vessels owned by the American Steamship Company. This is her fourth voy- age, and she carries a full cabin, besides a very large steerage list of passengers, and a heavy and valuable cargo : indeed, offerings of both passengers and freight, had to be refused on ac- count of want of accommodation for them. A considerable portion of the first day out is occupied in arriving at the Capes, and thus far navigation is smooth, and naught occurs to dampen the bright spirits of the company ; but on the second day, many prominent Philadel- phians find it necessary to go into retirement, there to speculate on the instability of human affairs, and other themes appropriate to such occasions. Sea- sickness is exhibited in various phases, according to the temperament of its victim. Most people are solemn and melan- choly under the affliction, and want to be let alone, giving sullen answers to the kind inqui- ries of their more fortunate friends ; others are jolly, treating it as a good joke, and surely no one can be jolly under more creditable circum- stances, as Mark Tapley would say. The man who can laugh although compelled, day after day, to cast up his accounts with nature, may be suspected to possess latent heroism sufficient to stand him in good stead, in many a tryino- situation : the acquaintance of such a man is worth possessing. If I were a bank director, the first inquiry I would make concerning the "stability " of a new customer, would be " How does he stand sea-sickness ? " There is no re- medy for sea-sickness ; but its effects may be mitigated, by the exercise of prudence in eating, and patience in enduring ; a good temper, and plenty of fresh air, are more efficacious than the most deleterious drugs. After spending two or three days in the state of mind supposed to have possessed Cardinal Woolsey, when commanded by Shakspeare to " look on this and after this, and then to break- fast with what appetite ye may," one begins to feel an interest in the arrival of the dining hour ; which is considered a hopeful sign. Four meals a day are served on these steamers, namely : breakfast at 8, (coffee at any time pre- vious,) lunch at 12, dinner at 4, and tea at 7.30. The dinner is a vastly ceremonious affair, occupying nearly two hours, but is ex- cellent, even sumptuous. The only misfortune is, that those having any qualms are unable to sit it out, and generally retire to the fresh air, after getting their soup, still hungry, and there- fore discontented. The odor of the cooking, confined air of the saloon, and rolling of the vessel combined, make dining a real penance to weak stomachs. This rolling frequently occa- sions queer contretemps at table ; such as, de- livering one's tea into the lap of one's vis-a-vis, etc. An unexpected lurch, on one occasion, made a general slide of dishes to one side of the tables, and thence to the floor, spilling their contents on the way ; whilst the frantic attempts made by the guests, to hold half-a-dozen dishee at once, made a very laughable scene. Having THE AMATEUR ABROAD. lost our lunch in this manner, we were imme- diately asked hj a waiter, who comprehended the situation, "Will you take a roll, Sir?" *' No, thank you," answered the Amateur, " I have just had one," Whereupon, the tables smiled, and recovered their equanimity. Speaking of the Amateur reminds us that we have neither introduced ourself nor explained- our " mission/' — Onee-upon-a-time a solitary horseman ar- rived upon an eminence, and paused to gaze upon the varied — But no ; we forgot that this initial chapter, written when half seas over, must be nautical if anything, and that a solitary equestrian could not probably have arrived there ; indeed, I doubt whether G. P. R. James could comfort ably get a horseman into such a situation, al- though I will admit, that if the thing were possible James would have done it. Perhaps he has done it ; I can only say, from personal knowledge of 299 of his solitary horsemen that none of them ever arrived upon an eminence in the Atlantic Ocean. Well then : — Once-upona-time the publishers of the " Am- ateur " appreciating the services rendered by its editorial staff in increasing the value of that in- teresting paper, (which is, as everybody knowl- the standard authority, and leading periodical of its kind in America,) graciously gave per- mission to the said staff to put shekels in their pouches, and wend their united ways, " Foreign countries for to see ; " upon the conditions hereunto annexed, namely : 1. That the said staff absent itself not ex- ceeding the term of four calendar months, ex- tending from the date hereof ( 28th May). 2. That all expenses of way -faring be charged to account of any firm in the music trade, save and except the said publishers of the " Amateur." Under these liberal and sagacious arrange- ments, the Amateur prepared to travel. First, let me describe the Amateur (personified) to you. He is an exceedingly prepossessing young man, both in appearance and manners, his only fault being his excessive modesty. With the ladies he is very popular, and it was on this account, principally, that he was selected by its worthy publishers, to conduct a paper which numbers among its readers, every lady of .taste and refinement in the land. In speaking of the Amateur hereafter, we will designate him simply by an initial capital, whilst the pa- per which is, as it were, the mere bantling of his mind, will be appropriately indicated by quota- tion markb''. Having given to the editor-in-chief that first position due to his official dignity, politeness re- quires that the lady-member of our staff, be next presented to our readers. Miss Araminta Squibbs is the accomplished editress of the fashion department of this magazine and is con- sidered prime authority upon the fripperies and appurtenances of feminine costume. We doubt not that our lady readers will anxiously search for her article in the present number and impa- tiently await its successors. Miss Squibbs knows a French bonnet when she sees it, and is not to be deceived in guipures, or guys either. All ladies have more or less temper, and Miss S. possesses, perhaps rather more than less. She says that the Amateur himself is decidedly headstrong (meaning headwrong?) ; we will not condescend to refute this accusation; but leave Miss Araminta to speak for herself hereafter, and our readers to judge between us. Our third associate, Junius, has long sat at the receipt of customs, where his beaming coun- tenance and elegant signature have proved ir- resistable in attracting feminine subscribers to the " Amateur." Junius is principally oonnec- tf'd with the business interests of oar journal ; still, he can write forcibly on occasions. He expressly disclaims, now and forever, the au- thorship of the celebrated letters which falsely bear his name, and further declares that he has never disputed Mark Twain's claim to the said authorship. Having thus introduced our dramatis personae, we will resume our narrative at that critical period, when literary high-art required this re- trospective digression. Steamer life is dull and monotonous. At first the appearance of a sail in the offing is hailed with enthusiasm, but its recurrence soon ceases to excite remark. A Providential iceberg, how- ever, proved a stronger attraction than a meal in the saloon. A meeting of passengers was called and the lucky discoverer immortalized by having his name conferred upon this estray from Greenland's Icy Mountains. As we pro- gress day after day, we find that being " Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep" THE AMATEUR ABROAD. is no joke, and that it is not conducive either to harmony of the elements that internally vex us or to that external harmony which might other- wise soothe us into forgetfulness of all our woes. Music is pursued under difficulties it must be ad- mitted when it suddenly flies into the centre of the saloon, the pianiste, music stool, sundry bouquets, etc., being "completely carried away with it." We are nearing Queenstown, and note-books, note-sheets, letter-sheets, and manuscript litera- ture of various kinds abound, whilst pencils travel rapidly. And is there not good occasion for all this scribbling in retired corners ? Know ye not that there will soon be a mail, and that by prompt use thereof the dear ones at home may be informed ten days after receipt of telegraphic news of like teiior, that we have duly arrived? Sunday morning, June 7th, enthusiastic pas- sengers got up at 82 A. M. to look out for the Irish coast, " Do you see anything green ?" was the constant query, which was finally satisfac- torily answered in the affirmative. Soon the bold headland of Cape Clear with its rocky and barren frontispiece was reached, and for hours thereafter we slowly passed a rolling and rocky coast, devoid of tree or undergrowth and lying fully exposed to the broiling rays of the sun. "Oh, what a beautiful country," said a fellow voyager. " How I would like to build me a country house on one of these headlands !" We arrive abreast the harbor of Queenstown — which looks like a little country village, and discharge a portion of our passengers. The daily papers will inform you that the Illi- nois made excellent time to this port, namely : nine days and a few hours ; but do not believe them. The Amateur and all his staff are ready to make deposition before any justice of peace in the United States or New Jersey that it was the longest voyage on record. The run up the Irish Sea was delightful ; the water perfectly placid, the sky bright, the air fresh without being cold. We had broad day- light at 3.30 A. M., and when we took tea at 8 P. M. in the saloon, below deck, no artificial light was required. An acquaintance wa-ote a letter by sunlight at 9.10 P. M. and even after 10 o'clock it was barely dark ! — And the sunset ! It put the brightest conceptions of Turner to shame with its gorgeous sky of burnished gold and blazing crimson, surmounting a fog-bank of bluish -purple to cast a metalic shimmer over each ripple of the deep blue sea. On the preceding day, at dinner, a legal gen- tleman from Philadelphia made a speech eulo- gistic of the management of the steamship and of the endeavors of its officers to promote the comfort of the passengers. With the usual bun- combe of such occasions, he first wrapped himself in the American flag, and then praised Capt. Shackford for the profound knowledge of naviga- tion manifested by him during this trying voyage, now so successfully terminating. To the remo- test future ages the name of Shackford, the dis- coverer of Liverpool would descend ; covered with imperishable renown — the peer of Columbus, of Cabot, and of Vespucci. During this speech, the captain amused himself by eating an apple with the utmost deliberation, and, I am sorry to say, appeared to be no more appreciative of the mag- nificent periods of his learned friend than a boiled lobster. Other speeches not intended for ver- batim reporting, duly followed, and the proceed- ings were appropriately closed by three cheers for everybody concerned. A reporter has sent off Ms account of this happy occasion to two Philadelphia newspapers, but you are warned in advance not to confide in him ; the speeches that will be printed were never spoken, and especially the captain did not " in a few happy remarks," etc. Sunday evening, (we blush to write it of that sacred day,) the lady passengers convened privately " to drink a little lemonade," and " none of those horrid brutes," were admitted to their parlor. The proceedings were evidently exceedingly hilarious, and were prolonged into the night, far beyond the time when all good citizenesses should be in bed. We learn from Miss Araminta, (who had the audacity to participate actively,) that the pi'oceedings, speeches, etc., were a burlesque on the male performances of the preceding day. Thus did a miserable travesty terminate the fourth outward ocean voyage of the Illinois. THE AMATEUR ABROAD. IT. LIVERPOOL, and on to LONDON. On Monday morning, June 8th, we steamed up the Mersey to Liverpool ; gazing with aston- ishment at its six miles of granite-faced docks, enclosing thousands of masts, covering two hun- dred acres, with fifteen miles of quays, and cost- ing nearly a hundred million dollars for con- struction. The entrances to these docks are closed by water-gates, which are only opened at high-water ; the tides rising here from fifteen to eighteen feet. Having landed by means oi a miserable tug-boat, we drove to the North Western Hotel, the terminus of the railroad line to London. This is a noble house, superbly fitted up, having a frontage of an entire square. Its clerks are ladies — which is quite usual in Europe. Some of the customs observed in England appear very strange at first to Americans. It is proper to ascertain in advance the prices of lodging and board, which are both graduated to suit one's purse. We dine in a magnificent apartment, (in very fine style), yet it bears the humble designation of coffee-room. An order for roast beef is not understood, and must be modified to " off joint." We sally out and see the town ; a most sub- stantially built town of smoke-begrimed stone and brick, containing half a million population. The streets are full of life, and of interest to strangers ; here are long lines of old clothes stores, the whole front covered with cast-off suits, whilst second-handed shoes encumber the narrow pavements. Then we pass provision stores, where salt and fresh meats are displayed in separate cuts of assorted sizes, qualities and prices. Some of these slices would not be con. sidered fit for dog meat in the United States. Thence to the cook shops, where genuine " weal-and-'ammers," pork-pies, etc., of al^ sizes, with and without upper-crust, are fur- nished ready-baked, cold and greasy, and fitter for an Esquimeaux than for a civilized human being. Everywhere one meets with anomalies ; the bakers, who sell flour and feed as well ; the grocer who calls himself dealer in provender ; the trimmings store disguised under the name of haberdashery ; the lumber dealer whose sign reads timber merchant ; the tavern keeper who is " licensed to sell liquors, to be consumed on the premises, and dealer in segars." The draught horses belong to an immense race, never seen in America ; they draw enormous carts furnished with great wheels of most sub- stantial weight ; an American horse would faint at the very sight of the loads which these giants haul with ease. The public conveyances are oddities ; omnibuses are frequently driven with three horses abreast, or by a span and a leader ; passenger railway cars have two rows of seats back to back in the centre, with an additional row on either outside of the car ; the hansom- cab, is a curious gig-like affair, with the driver perched aloft on a box behind it ; railway car- riages are short " vans" of three compartments each, either of which is entered from the sides and contains two rows of seats, so that one- half the passengers are compelled to ride back- wards. Railway accommodations and prices are graduated according to the amount of up- holstering in the compartments, thus : Bare benches and no carpet, is third-class and lowest cost ; upholstered seats, with easy cushioned back for sleeping, is second-class ; while the ad- dition of a carpet with the name and arms ot the R. R. Co. woven into its centre, constitutes the aristocratic first-class, costing more than American prices, with inferior accommodation. The Pulman Palace Cars have just been intro- duced by the Midland Railroad Co., and are highly appreciated by our English cousins. The Amateur, mindful of his dignified posi- tion, travels first-class in England, and con- siders the additional expense a cheap invest- ment for the consideration of the hotel and railway porters, cabmen and snobs. He in- tends, however, when reaching the more practi- cal continent, sometimes to travel second-class, and for three reasons : 1st. The English snob who always goes first- class, must be endured at home, where he is " to the manner born,'' if one would study him ; but abroad, he is a disagreeable nuisance, and it is THE AMATEUR ABROAD. 9 as well to avoid him, with his ubiquitous leather hat box, umbrella and telescope. 2d. On the continent, the people or natives travel second-class, and are there to be studied. 3d. Second-class is the cheapest, " which," Miss Araminta remarks parenthetically, " need not have been mentioned, as the first two reasons are sufficient." The principal objections to the European Railway arrangements are, that much room is wasted in their cars ; that half the passengers must ride backward ; that there is no chance whatever to gamble in prize candy boxes, or to patronize cheap literature while en route. It, must be confessed, however, that the English railway official is extremely polite and obliging and never commits the error of supposing him self the autocrat of all the Russias ; and that the precautions taken against accidents are admir- able. The public buildings of Liverpool are not numerous but good. St. George's Hall, devoted to musical purposes, is an immense building situated on a commanding site, and having an entire square of frontage. The entablature is supported by a row of Corinthian columns, and the approach is by a broad flight of steps. Upon the plaza in front of the Hall, are four immense stone lions, couchant, while on either side are equestrian bronzes of the Queen and Prince Consort. There is also a column over one hundred feet high, surmounted by a statue of Nelson, clad in a Roman toga ! The Free Public Museum and Library, Sir Wm. Brown's munificent gift to the citizens, contains some very good pictures, besides a large collection of casts from antique statuary. There is a small but choice collection of minerals, fossils, etc. The Exchange, the Municipal Buildings, the Great Market, a few very good churches, etc., complete the list of noticeable public edifices. On Tuesday, June 9th, we took the train starting from under the hotel roof, and in less than an hour, steamed froin Liverpool into the middle ages. The quaint town of Chester is re- markable for its antiquity, and appears to make a very respectable subsistence off of it. The ancient walls which were repaired, A. D. 70 ! may have been erected " once-upon-a-time" or even earlier, for aught we know to the contrary. Enfeebled by age, they are no longer able to stand alone, and have been sustained by exter- nal courses of the same material, (red sandstone) applied from time to time as required. In jus- tification of this, it could be alleged that the stone used in these reparations, was made quite as long ago as the original budding of the wall. This circumvallation forms a two mile prome- nade, anything but level on the top, curiously approached by inclined ways at various points. Two (genuine) old towers form outworks to this primitive fortification, which was built as a defence against the Welsh barbarians, and stood many a siege at their hands ; in our time, a ten-pounder cannon would knock daylight through such a wall in about ten minutes. Near to one tower, dignified by the name of The Castle, are some Roman remains ; a column, several badly damaged bases for ditto, fragment of bas-relief, representing general riding on a triumphal car, or a rail, or seated in a hansom- cab. The King Charles' Tower was used by that foolish but brave monarch, as a council chamber, and from the top thereof, he beheld his army defeated at Rowton Moor, by the round- heads. You can stand where King Charles stood for two pence, or you can look up at the tower for nothing. Araminta very sensibly re- marked, that the fee was not sufficient to give credibility to the legend, and Junius said that it was impossible to grow sentimental on two pence, so we gazed at the interesting object, free gratis. The Ancient Cathedral is undergoing "re- storation," and when finished, it will probably look more ancient than ever before. But you ought to see the hundreds of curious old houses, with projecting second-stories, tiled roofs, gabled to the street, innumerable queer chimneys, old beams and carved wood work, little leaden windows, tile floors, doorsteps almost worn in two by use, streets worn down several feet below the footways, the latter sometimes barely two feet wide. Then you ought to see the quaint footways erected over the tops of the houses, and covered by an additional roof to pro- tect the passengers from the rain, and provided with old stairs at each cross-street; and you ought to see also, how modern store keepers have erected beautiful stores in the rear of these passages, thus making of them an arcade, wherein to dispose of modern fabrics and luxu- ries. Yes, and you ought to see the crypt, now used by Blank & Co. as a wine vault. We dis- 10 THE AMATEUR ABROAD. covered the localities of several " crypts," as ad- vertised on the walls of the houses — " the only genuine ;" but as our time was limited, we de- clined investing in an uncertainty. If, however, any ci'ypt proprietor will afford us conclusive evidence that he owns the Simon Pure article, we will insert said evidence in the " Amateur," at the usual advertising rates. Lastly, you ought to see the ancient modern houses ! For reader, Chester is a dear old fraud, and, probably by provision of its munici- pality, all the recently built houses are imita- tions of the ancient ones, and are finished by a very tlin antiquarian wash laid on at night, when there are no tourists looking on ! In the evening, we returned again to Liver- pool for a night's rest, and next morning set out for London. III. Our First Week in London. Having reached the railway terminus in Lon- don, we encountered an unexpected difficulty : it was the height of the season, and several hotels to which we applied could not accommodate us. However, we soon found very comfortable quar- ters at the Midland Grand Hotel, connected, (like the North-Western Hotel at Liverpool J, with the depot of a great railway line. Our house is situated on high ground in a beautiful portion of the city, and is itself one of the most beautiful buildings in London, apart from the public institutions. In Europe, dinners are served either a-la- carte or at table-d'-h5te at the ojition of the guest. At the lattei", one misses the variety of dishes prepared for an American hotel dinner, but as a rule, the cooking is better and one is served more promptly. The courses, ready carved on a large dish, are served around by the waiters, and each guest supplies himself in turn with such pieces as suit his fancy. An excellent dinner, cooked to order, and served hot and in liberal quantity, consisting of, say : soup, roast-beef, vegetables, and dessert, may be had for a dollar. Fair wines at 37|^ to 50 cents per pint bottle. The cab system established throughout Europe is a surprise and great convenience to Ameri- cans, for at home everything in the way of hired vehicles is a delusion and a snare. Those of us who have paid two and three dollars for a ride to the opera can scarcely realize that it costs but a shilling in London, whei'e the hackney coaches number several thousand. The cheapness and privacy of the cabs causes them to be used al- most exclusively by the ladies, who rarely patronize the omnibuses or the street cars. Another favorite mode of traveling is by the Metropolitan Railway, which tunnels the city in all directions, runs trains (underground) every three minutes from every station, and takes you rapidly anywhere you wish to go for a merely nominal price. Seventy millions of peoi)le were carried over this road last year. And this is how, with the above facilities, we saw London in two weeks ; not hurriedly, but at leisure, taking in ne more daily than we could properly label and pigeon-hole for future refer- ence. 1st day. The Bank of England. This building of marble, is more vast than beautiful, covering nearly eight acres of ground. The bank issues no notes of less than five pounds ($25) value, and never re-issues the same notes, but destroys them when returned to its counter. The current numbers on all notes in circulation are taken by the clerk when he pays them out to customers, and tradesmen invariably keep the names of those from whom they receive^or to whom they pay them, as well as the numbers thereof; and by this means missing or stolen notes are readily traced. Gold is paid out at the banks by weight, instead of by count which much expedites the transaction of busi- ness. From the Bank we went to the Royal Exchange, completed in 184:4, at a cost of nearly a million dollars. A statue of George Peabody, the late eminent American banker, is in the immediate vicinity. London Bridge, a modern structure costing a million dollars, spans the Thames upon the site of the picturesque histor- ical bridge of the same name, which was de- stroyed by fire. Over 100,000 persons cross London Bridge daily : the vast throng, with vehicles, merchandise and horses, make a very animated ensemble. Near-by is the Custom House, a large building facing the river, where- THE AMATEUR ABROAD 11 in are employed 2400 clerks ; for in London are collected nearly one-half the custom-dues of Great Britain ; Liverpool only taking one-fifth as much revenue. Keeping along Lower Thames Street, with its immense warehouses and crowded pavements, we pass Billingsgate, the last refuge of classical English, and where the fish- god is daily worshipped, to emerge in front of the great object of our day's expedition, the Tower of London. Gazing upon this vener- able structure, of which portions have endured for eight centuries, what a flood of recollections rushes over one ! Here, is almost an epitome of English history, done into stone and iron. We shudder at beholding the veritable Traitor's Gate, the Bloody Tower, where Richard III. murdered his nephews, (if he did it), the Bowyer Tower, where the Duke of Clarence suflTered a whimsical death by drowning in a butt of Malmsey, the prisons of Lady Jane Grey, of Anne Boleyn, of Raleigh, the block on which Mary, Queen of Scots, was beheaded. Then one passes through the Horse Armory, and, sur- rounded by a display of the weapons of all ages and nations, beholds the mounted effigies of En- gland's great monarchs and warriors clothed in their actual suits of armor. Ushers, clad in the picturesque costume of Henry Vlllths yeomen of the guard, (a scarlet coat, with the arms of England in gilt embroidery on the front and back) conduct you thus far, explaining the principal objects of interest by the way, including the dungeons with inscriptions on the walls, labori- ously cut by illustrious victims of despotism, and the armory, where sixty-five thousand improved arms are ready for instant use. Then, under the guidance of a reverentially loyal female, whose every tone betrays the awe and admira- tion which have penetrated her very soul, one is permitted to view the Royal Regalia, in an as- cending series from the Royal Club or Walking Stick, and the Royal Salt-Cellar (large enough for a two years' supply of that useful condi- ment), up to the Royal Crown, which it should he the acme of human felicity to behold, and which cost a million pounds! (The old lady's loyalty is $4,400,000 in excess of the truth in this item, but we forgive her. ) 2d day. Regent's Park and Zoological Gardens. The Park contains somewhat less than five hundred acres, without much diversity of surface. It is planted with young trees, and numerous flower-beds, blooming profusely. Per- ipatetic photographers pervade the Park and sell their wares at popular prices. We were in- formed that our party would make a very nice group for a shilling, which was doubtless the truth. In the upper end of the park, a portion of ground, beautifully laid out in shrubbery and garden, is occupied by the London Zoological Society; and here, in capacious cages, contain- ing all in the shape of trees, shrubs, herbage and running water, necessary to make captivity endurable, are collected upwards of two thousand specimens of the animal kingdom, properly class- ified and named. So comfortably are they quartered, that the most shy animals breed here in confinement, and unequaled facilities are en- joyed by the scientific and the curious for be- coming acquainted with the manners and customs of the brute creation. The monkey-house ap- pears to be the chief centre of attraction, for here we see the wisdom and the follies of man- kind alike mimicked by clever artists, whose philosophy is alike indifferent to the praises or censures of their audiences. Sc? day. Past the government offices, including the Horse-Guards, where two sentinels, moun- ted, stand guard during four mortal hours, en- during in silence the jibes of the street-gamins, and on to Westminster Palace, appropriated to the uses of parliament. This building, the most magnificent in Europe, is modern in con- struction, replacing one destroyed by fire in 1834. It is situated directly on the Thames, and partly built upon a foundation eight centu- ries old. The palace is of Gothic architecture, profusely ornamented with hundreds of statues and most elaborate carvings, and has a frontage of nine hundred feet. The cost of the building Js about eight million dollars. The carvings, gilding, paintings and frescoes of the interior, are rich beyond description. A popular guide- book mentions that " there are eighteen statues of barons between the windows w^io signed the magna-charta." But how the windows managed to affix their autographs, our friend Junius can- not exactly make out. Contiguous to the palace is Westminster Abbey. This historic pile in- cludes a number of chapels of various ages, portions of the building being twelve hundred years old — indeed, an interesting tomb of a Saxon King bears date, A. D. 637. Here are monuments of marble, granite, painted alabas- 12 THE AMATEUR ABROAD. ter, bronze and gilt, to most of England's mon- archs, warriors and statesmen. In close prox- imity but peaceful quiet, until the Resurrection Day, repose those mortal foes Elizabeth and Mary. Many Kings and queens are simply buried beneath the pavement — their names only recorded upon it, to be worn out ere long by the tread of irreverent feet. "Look out," we said to Araminta, " do you know that you are tramp- ling on royalty ?" "I cannot help it, if I do," replied that independent young woman. The chapel erected by Henry VII is one of the larg- est in the Abbey and is very beautiful. The arched ceiling is elaborately carved in stone, and is the finest example of the kind in the world. The tombs of statesmen, warriors, philosophers and poets surround one during his progress through this great national Walhalla. The Poets' Corner, with the monuments to Shakes- peare, Milton, Handel, Southey, Dryden, Camp- bell, Garrick, Chaucer, Spencer, Cowley, etc., is a principal object of attraction. Then there are monuments erected at the public expense, (too often a very late recognition,) to the virtues and prowess of the great men, who have made England what she is. Here too, looking all the meaner in the midst of the great and the worthy, are the pretentious monuments of the rich and ambitious, who have bought place (for even place in Westminster Abbey is purchasable) in the company of those with whom they never dared to associate whilst living. The monarchs of England and their consorts are always crowned in the Abbey and under the plain wood- en coronation chair is placed the stone from- Scone, upon which the Scottish kings used to be crowned. They brought it from Ireland, where it had served a similar purpose for many centu- ries, ante-dating the Christian era. When Ed- ward I conquered Scotland, he brought away this stone, because the Scots -believed tliat who- ever was crowned upon it would reign over them. Subsequently, many unsuccessful at- tempts Vv^ere made by the Scotch to recover pos- session of this precious historical relic. The Abbey is a cruciform Gothic structure, about four hundred feet long by half as wide. No description can do justice to its magnificent vistas and hoary columns. We left it with great regret, for here, as in the Tower, are the ar- chives of history, and weeks might be profitably spent in their study. St. Paul's Cathedral, although a vast and imposing structure, struck us as being very much inferior in beauty to the Abbey. The choir, ho'fever, is magnificently ornamented^ and the organ doubtless a very fine one — but the acoustic qualities are not to be commended^ sound echoing fearfully through the lofty aisles^ The monuments in St. Paul's are principally those of naval and military heroes ; so that, as a writer has recently remarked, when the New Zealander of the future, excavating among the ruins of London, exhumes St. Paul's, he will assure himself that the English worshipped the god of war. \t}i day. (Sunday afternoon.) We took the train for the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, some nine miles out of the city. This is the largest conservatory and garden in the world, and contains many thousand species of plants from every clime, all systematically arranged and labeled. The chief glory of Kew is the great Palm House, a cruciform building con- structed entirely of iron and glass, with a rounded roof ; the entire length in either direc- tion being 375 feet, while the central portion has an elevation of 63 feet. The vistas within this- house are magnificent, and the visitor, upon gazing in every direction upon the giant palm- growths may imagine himself transported into the midst of a luxuriant tropical forest — some of the trunks attaining sixty feet in height. The houses devoted to the Temperate Ferns,^ the Tropical Ferns, the Orchidaceiu, and the Cactacea?, are each large and well-filled with forms and blooms. The great water-lily (Vic- toria Regia) spreads its giant leaves, sufficiently large to float a child, upon the surface of a huge basin of water, which contains numerous other water-plants. Then there are three very in- structive museum buildings stored with vegetable products, both in their natural state and as transformed by mechanical processes into articles of food, and raiment, and use for man. Many new species of plants bloom first for the eyes of science at Kew Gai'dens, the seeds being brought hither by travelers from distant lands. The establishment, which comprises seventy- five acres, is presided over by Sir William Hooker, assisted by numerous botanists and gardeners, and is maintained at the expense of the government. The gates to its beauties are always open, without price, to the people. THE AMATEUR ABROAD. 13 bth day. Temple Bar, the ancient city gate whose arches still span the Strand, is a building of historic interest, being the badge of London's freedom. Even at this day, the ponderous old gates, ever open for the ebb and flow of com- merce, are closed at the approach of the sovereign, and only opened for her entrance into her an- cient city, after her request for admittance has been granted by the Lord Mayor. Near-by are the ancient Temple Inns and Church, vener- able structures once the dwelling-places of the Military Monks, whose name they bear, but now sacred to the law. Fleet Street and the Strand, full of business life and showy stores, soon bring us to Trafalgar Square, with its foun- tain. Nelson monument and lions. Facing the square is the National Picture Gallery, a large but not beautiful building, finished in 1838, at an expense of half-a-million dollars. The col- lection embraces about six hundred paintings of the Italian, Spanish, French and Flemish Schools, including many undoubted old masters, such as Raphaels', Corregios', Rubens', Murillos', Titians', Guidos', Rembrandts', acquired at great expense. We anticipated much pleasure, in gazing upon such a large collection of celebrated paintings, but we were much disappointed : find- ing out, before long, that the old masters, with rare exceptions, are old humbugs. It requires all the enthusiasm of the antiquarian to see great- ness in the glaring colors and stitT, ungainly figures and want of perspective which characterize these so-called gems. The rooms devoted to the Tur- ner collection contain many of his best pictures, and not a few of those which he painted alter he became afflicted with that color-blindness, which has resulted in so much bewilderment t j the critic. Some of these pictures are dreadful, rainbow- hued daubs, representing anything your imagi- nation can make out of them. A few good Land- seers' and other English artists, and a host of beautiful Dutch pictures, are well worthy in- spection. In the evening we went to the Drury Lane Opera House, to hear the second performance of Balfe's posthumous opera, "The Talisman." The exterior of the theatre is not prepossessing although dignified by the title of Royal and guarded by red-coated soldiers. The house is about the same size as the Arch Street Theatre, in Philadelphia, but there is probably not a variety or minstrel hall in the City of Broth- erly Love which does not surpass it in beauty and comfort. The floors are worn and patched, the coverings of the very narrow seats, old and torn, and their straight backs, give the occupants aches in about ten minutes. The auditorium is insufliciently lighted by a very old-fashioned chandelier, side lights with glass lustres and foot- lights separately furnished with glass chimneys. The ceiling is elegantly frescoed with white paper or whitewash, we could not justly detect which. Into this enclosure are driven the victims of fashion, there to expiate their sins by four hours of agony. When we gazed upon the in- struments of torture preserved in the Tower, we felt thankful that the time for their use had passed away ; but more ingeniously contrived is the modern instrument of agony, the opera-chair into which, fashion squeezes perspiring and aching humanity. A few privileged people only, enjoy the use of two rows of miserable little boxes, reminding one of nothing else so much as the oyster stalls of some cheap restaurant, and for these eligible situations, are paid prices, far exceeding the highest rates charged for ad- mission in America. In the lower part of the house, no gentleman is admitted unless he wears a dress coat and white cravat, and the ladies cannot wear bonnets, and generally, do not wear dresses long enough at the upper end ; and oh, such colors! The one word, exactly descriptive of English taste in dress, is decidedly "loud." The man who shows your seat, and hands you a programme, expects a shilling for the service, and by the time you are are all aches, the very respectable orchestra of sixty-seven performers, commences the symphony ; the conductor. Sir Michael Costa, finding it necessary to empha- size his beat upon his desk, more i'requently than usual in America. Anon, the ugly, old green-and-white curtain rolls up, and you are transported into the Eastern Desert. We will not describe the plot of the opera now, but at a future period, will endeavor to do it ample jus- tice ; for it has come to stay, and will cross the Atlantic in due time. The numerous chorus was very effective, the auxiliaries well-trained, the scenery, the properties and dresses superb — the ensembles being quite as excellent as the exceptionable manner in which Strakosch pre- sented Aida and Lohengrin to us, last season. The opera is founded on Scott's romance. The Talisman, and its striking situations have af- 14 THE AMATEUR ABROAD. forded excellent material for librettist and com- poser. The two principal roles are entrusted to Nilsson and Campanini ; sufficient guarantee of finished singing and acting. Musically, II Tal- ismano is as far in advance of the Bohemian Girl as Verdi's Aida is of his Trovatore, and it is quite as striking an example of the progress of musical taste of late years. Although we paid heavy prices for secured seats, we were glad to vacate them after the first act, and retire to the rear, where we could rest ourselves by standing up. From this vantage point, we watched with infinite amusement, the natives served in their seats, with ices, cakes and drinks, and some of the ladies taking strong pulls from good-sized pocket-flasks. At midnight, we re- turned to our hotel, resolved to criticize the London Operas hereafter, from the outside. It is but fair to add, that a friend who went to the Covent Garden Opera House, found that estab- lishment to be much better, and more comfort- ably fitted up, although much inferior to our Philadelphia Academy. Gth day. Crystal Palace at Sydenham. This magnificent structure occupies an elevated site in the midst of its own beautifully planted grounds, and commands a lovely and extensive view. AVithin, are very extensive technological, fine arts and natural history collections, and — a principal feature — suites of rooms, decorated in the various orders of architecture, Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Moorish, (the Alhambra), By- zantine, Medieval, etc. These are elaborately ornamented, and contain statuary, bas-reliefs, monuments, frescoes, etc., of their various styles and periods, being copies of the most celebrated antiques. The palace also contains several beautiful fountains, many exotic plants, a palm- house, orangery, two concert rooms and a theatre, where English opera is frequently performed for a shilling admission. The great concert-room is fitted up with an immense organ, and stage for several thousand singers, and here is to be held, within a few days, the Handel Triennial Fes- tival, which is to last for several days. Four thousand singers and instrumental performers, under the conductorship of Sir Michael Costa, will assemble on this occasion. A large portion of the palace is rented to London dealers, who here exhibit and sell their goods, making brilliant displays. Ample re- freshment and dining rooms are provided, and access from London is obtainable every few minutes, by two railways. On the day of our visit, there was a grand orchestral concert, at 12 o'clock, and another at 3.30 P. M., each consisting of seven numbers ; and a performance on the Great Organ, at 5.45 P. M., besides other entertainments ; all for the single admission price of one shilling. IV. Our Second Week in London. On Wednesday, June 17 tk, we visited the British Museum, a noble Grecian building, with a front of 370 feet, and a good sized plaza before it, which much enhances its appearance. The edifice is two stories in height, and a large portion of the upper floor is devoted to the Zoological Museum, which is large and^well ar- ranged. The mammalia, reptiles and fishes are particularly noticeable for their completeness ; but Americans, and especially Philadelphians, will be interested to learn that in at least two de- partments of zoology, namely : ornithology and conchology — the collections of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia are far greater and more valuable. Probably we possess in Philadelphia, in either of these important de- partments, nearly double the number of species and specimens that are contained in this national museum, reputed to be the largest in the world. The mineralog'cal collections are very rich and extensive ; but the fossils disappointed us, al- though there is a skeleton of the Mastodon of North America, a Glyptodon, the cast of a Megatherium, etc. The most interesting portion of the museum is that devoted to the very extensive collections of Assyrian, Egyptian, Pha'nician, Grecian, and Roman antiquities. These include originals or casts of the most famous statuary, the colossi and bas-reliefs excavated from the ruins of Nimroud by Layard, numerous Egyptian statues, bas-reliefs and frescoes, the Elgin collection of marbles from the Acropolis at Athens, etc. There are also many thousands of useful and THE AMATEUR ABROAD. 15 ornamental articles, seals, rings, bronzes, wares of pottery, china, glass, ivory, iron, textile fab- rics ; all of which testify to the high civilization attained by the Assyrians, Egyptians and Phoe- nicians, many centuries ago. Here is also the famous Rosetta stone bearing the same inscrip- tion in three languages, namely : Egyptian, Demotic and Greek, by the aid of which, the Egyptian hieroglyphics were rendered translat- able. Next after the antiquities, follow modern ethnological collections illustrative of the habits and civilization of the Esquimaux, Indians, Polynesians, Malays, etc. There are also ex- tensive remains of the pre-Adamitic cave and lake dwellers of Europe. Connected with the museum are several spec- ial libraries of great value, including thousands of rare and curious manuscripts, autographs, and prints. The centre of the quadrangle is occupied by the New Reading Room, a m,agnificent circu- lar apartment, one hundred and forty feet in diameter, surmounted by a dome over one hun- dred feet high. This room contains desks and accommodations for three hundred readers, and the library, placed in wall cases, includes over one million volumes, and is the largest in the world. Both museum and library are the prop^ erty of the government, which expends half a million dollars annually for their maintenance, and employs over three hundred custodians. The collections are exhibited daily, free of cost, to the public, and every facility is granted to students and readers. After visiting the Museum, the Amateur took a short constitutional through classic by- ways and modern thoroughfares, meeting at every corner familiar names endeared by many a recollection of the pages of famous romancists and historians. High Holborn, with its beauti- ful stores, Chancery Lane, the antique buildings and gardens of Lincoln's Inn, Queen Victoria Street, a new thoroughfare with magnificent buildings just erected, then through Cheapside to the great Post Office, Aldersgate Street, and so on, back to our hotel, a walk teeming with interest and revealing more of London life than can be learned from books in years, or acquired by a week of carriage drives. Thursday, June X'^tli, we devoted to walks in the same manner ; seeing Oxford Street and Regent Street with their fine stores, the dwell- ings in the aristocratic West-End, and the bor-