t ^ V * • , LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, ©^Jjp — . Capgrigljt 1>. Shelf JEy4 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. OUR SOCIETY :i|>ans. London Crumpets. Sift together one and one-half pints flour, one-half teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful sugar, and two teaspoonfuls baking powder; add one beaten egg, a scant pint of milk and cream in equal parts, a little ground cinnamon or a teaspoonful extract of cinnamon; half fill greased muffin rings, place on a hot, well-greased griddle. Bake on one side only. Serve hot with cottage cheese. Kentucky Corn Dodgers. Place your griddle where it will heat, for this is much better than a bread pan, there being less danger of scorching at the bot- tom. Take an even pint of sifted meal, a heaping tablespoonful of lard, a pinch of salt, and a scant half pint of cold water; mix well and let it stand while you grease your griddle and sprinkle some meal over it. Make the dough into rolls the size and shape of goose eggs, and drop them on the griddle, taking care to flatten as little as possible, for the less bottom crust the better. Place in the oven and bake until brown on the bottom. Then change to the grate, and brown on top, taking from twenty to thirty minutes for the whole process. Eaten while hot with plenty of good butter, they are better than any other bread. The same amount of meal, lard and salt mixed with boiling water, till of the consistency of thick batter, will give you delight- ful hot cakes, to be cooked like any other batter bread. 26 FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Green Corn Fritters. Grate green corn from the cob, and allow an egg and a half for every cupful, with a tablespoonful of milk or cream; heat the eggs well; add the corn by degrees, beating very hard; salt to taste. Put a tablespoonful of melted butter to every pint of corn; stir in the milk, and thicken with just enough flour to hold them together — say a tablespoonful for every two eggs. You may fry in hot lard, as you would fritters, or cook upon a griddle like batter cakes. Eaten at dinner or breakfast, these always find a cordial welcome. Green Corn Fritters, No. 2. Two cups of grated corn, two eggs, one cup of milk, flour for thin batter, a pinch of soda, salt, one tablespoonful melted butter. Mix and fry as you would griddle cakes. Apple Fritters. Beat three eggs very lightly, then stir in one teaspoonful of salt, Dnedialf cup of sugar, one pint of milk, two cups of chopped apple and two cups of flour. Flavor with nutmeg. Stir all well together and fry in lard as pancakes. Sift sugar over them and send to the iable. Celery Fritters. Boil some thick but tender stalks of celery in salted water; when done dry them on a cloth, cut them in equal lengths about one and a-half inches; fry them in batter to a golden color, sprinkling fine salt well over, and serve. Oyster Fritters. Drain them thoroughly, chop fine, season with pepper and salt. Make a batter of eggs, milk and flour; stir the chopped oysters in this and fry in hot butter; or fry them whole, enveloped in batter, one in each fritter. In this case the batter should be thicker than if they were chopped. FRITTERS. 27 Clam Fritters. Twelve clams, minced fine; one pint milk; three eggs. Add the liquor from the clams to the milk; beat up the eggs and put to this, with salt and pepper, and flour enough for thin batter; lastly, the chopped clams. Fry in hot lard, trying a little first to see if the fat and batter are right. A tablespoonful will make a fritter of moderate size. Or you can dip the whole clams in batter and cook in like manner. Fry quickly, or they are apt to be too greasy. Lobster Fritters. Put one lobster in two quarts boiling water with half a cup salt; boil twenty-five minutes; when cold remove the meat and fat, cut into small slices; put one tablespoonful butter, one tablespoonful flour, one cup cream, a little celery, salt, thyme, white pepper, and a salt-spoon of parsley, into a stew-pan; let boil two minutes; add yolks of four eggs, and the lobster; mix and set it back to simmer five minutes; pour it out on a well-greased dish and set it away to get firm by cooling; cut into slices, dip into common batter and fry to a light brown in hot lard. Serve on the fritters a few sprigs of parsley, quite dry, fried in the lard fifteen seconds. Rice Fritters. Boil one cup of rice in one pint of milk until soft; add the yolks of three eggs, one tablespoonful sugar, two tablespoonfuls butter, two tablespoonfuls flour; when cold add the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth; drop in spoonfuls in plenty of hot lard and fry to a light brown color. Serve with cream, wine or lemon sauce. Blackberry Fritters. Mix one cup blackberries with one and a-half cups common batter and drop by tablespoonfuls into hot lard. All berry fritters can be made as directed for the above and served with spiced sauce made as follows: Set on the fire three- fourths pint of water, one cup sugar; boil twenty minutes, remove from the fire and add one teaspoonful each of extract cloves, mace,, and ginger. 28 GEMS. GEMS, Graham Gems. One pint milk, one pint Graham flour, salt-spoonful salt; beat well; heat the gem pan hot, butter it and drop the dough into the sockets with a spoon, filling each one-half full. Graham Gems, No. 2. One pint buttermilk, one teaspoonful soda, a little salt, one egg, one-half cup sugar, tablespoonful lard; thicken with Graham flour, and bake in gem tins. Graham Gems; No. 3. One pint milk, one cup flour, one cup Graham flour, one egg, a little salt. Have the irons hot before using. Cold Water Gems. Take cold watei - , Graham flour, and a little salt, make rather a stiff batter; heat and grease the irons, or tins, and bake twenty minutes. Mixed Gems. One-half pint Graham, half pint corn meal, half pint rye flour, half pint buckwheat flour, one teaspoonful salt, two heaping tea- spoonfuls baking powder, one pint rich milk; mix into a thin batter, then half fill well-greased gem pans. Bake in hot oven fifteen minutes. Corx Gems. One pint corn meal, one pint flour, one teaspoonful salt, two large teaspoonfuls baking powder, one pint milk; mix into a firm batter, two-thirds fill well-greased gem pans and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Oatmeal Gems. Soak one cup oatmeal over night in one cup water; in the morn- ing add one cup sour milk, one teaspoonful soda, one cup of flour, a little salt, bake in gem irons. If on trial they are a little moist or sticky, add a little more flour. MUFFINS. 29 MUFFINS. To one quart of milk add two well-beaten eggs, a lump of butter half the size of an egg, a little salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter; stir in half a pint of yeast. Let them stand until they are perfectly light and then bake on a griddle in rings made for the purpose. These are merely strips of tin three-fourths of an inch wide, made into rings two and a half or three inches in diameter, and without bottoms, the ring being simply placed on the griddle and the batter being poured in to fill it. Muffins, No. 2. One pint flour, one cup milk, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls baking powder, butter the size of an egg; beat the yolks of the eggs with the butter, then add the whites well beaten. Sift baking powder with the flour, and mix all together into a battel*. Bake in muffin rings. Muffins, No. 3. One pint new milk, one egg, one tablespoonful sugar, one table- spoonful butter, half teaspoon ful salt, one cake yeast (or better, half cup home-made yeast) ; mix with flour until a very stiff batter is formed; leave in a warm place over night and bake in the morn* ing in rings. Rice Flour Muffins. One and one-half cups rice flour, two cups wheat flour, one pint milk, one egg, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, a little salt, a small piece of butter. Bake as usual. Rice Muffins. One pint sifted flour, two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder and a little salt. Thoroughly mix together; then add one cup cold boiled rice, two eggs, one tablespoonful butter, and enough sweet milk to make a thick batter. Bake immediately. .30 MUSH. Graham Muffins. Two cups sour milk, one teaspoonful saleratus, two eggs, a little salt, butter half the size of an egg, three cups Graham flour. Bake in rings. Graham Muffins, No. 2. Two cups Graham flour, one cup sweet milk, one-third cup sugar, ■ one egg, butter the size of an egg, two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Bake in rings twenty or thirty minutes in hot oven. Corn Meal Muffins. One and one-half cups of corn meal, the same of flour, two heap- ing teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half cup sugar, one-half tea- spoonful salt, one tablespoonful butter, two eggs, and milk enough to make a stiff battel*. MUSH. Corn Mush. Take boiling water (soft water is preferable), salt to the taste, add meal very slowly so as to prevent any lumps being formed; cook thoroughly. Oatmeal Mush. Put four tablespoonfuls oatmeal into one quart cold water; add one teaspoonful salt, let it cook slowly for from one to two hours, adding hot water when needed; just before serving stir in one teaspoonful butter, or soak the meal over night and add boiling water and cook in the morning. Cracked Wheat Mush. To one quart salted water add three-fourths cup cracked or rolled wheat, and boil two hours; or it may be soaked over night and boil one hour. PUFFS. 31 Cracked Wheat Mush, No. 2. Moisten one and one-half cups cracked wheat with cold water, add one-half teaspoonful salt, place in a muslin bag, leaving half the space for the wheat to swell; put into a small colander and place in a kettle of water and keep boiling from three to four hours. Serve with syrup and butter or cream and sugar. It is nice sliced and fried when cold. Fried Mush for Breakfast. Night before, stir into two quarts of boiling water a little salt and one pound of farina, boil for ten minutes, and pour it into a shallow dish to cool; next morning cut it into slices, and fry in lard light brown. This is far superior to corn meal mush. Homhsty. Take one cup hominy to one quart salted water and soak over night and boil three-fourths of an hour. Serve with milk and .sugar. Slice and fry when cold. PUFFS. Puffs. Two eggs, two cups of milk, two cups of flour, and a little salt. Pour into hot roll pans and bake in a quick oven. Fill the pans about half full. German Puffs. Two cups of sweet milk, two cups of flour, three eggs, and a little salt. Graham Puffs. One egg, one pint sweet milk, one pint Graham flour, and a pinch of salt; beat the eggs thoroughly; add the milk, then the flour gradually; beat the whole mixture briskly with an egg-beater; pour into cast-iron gem pans, well-greased, and hot; bake in very hot oven; this mixture is just sufficient for twelve gems. :',2 PUFFS. Oatmeal Puffs. Sift together one-half pint oatmeal, one-half pint Graham, one- half pint flour, one teaspoonful sugar, one-half teaspoonful salt, and two teaspoonfuls baking powder; agg and rub over the top, then sprinkle with sugar; put into the oven again for a moment, and serve hot. RUSKS. 37 Baking Powder Rusks. Thoroughly mix with one quart sifted flour, two heaping tea- spoonfuls baking powder, and one teaspoonful salt; then mix the beaten yolks of three eggs with a half cup butter and one cup sugar; now stir up the flour prepared as above with water, making a dough of the proper consistency for bread; then add the eggs, butter and sugar, and mix all well together. Form into little cakes and rub the tops with sugar and water, and then sprinkle dry sugar over them and bake immediately. Scones. Thoroughly mix one quart sifted flour, two heaping tenspoonfuls baking powder; then rub into one-fourth pound batter and enough sweet milk to make a smooth paste; roll out the paste to one-fourth of an inch in thickness and cut it into triangular pieces, each side of which is about four inches long; put them into a greased tin and bake immediately in a very hot oven; when half done, brush them over with sweet milk. Scotch Scones. Sift together one quart flour, one teaspoonful sugar, one-half teaspoonful salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder; rub in a large tablespoonful lard cold; add two beaten egg? aud nearly one-half pint milk; mix into a smooth dough, knead up quickly and roll out to one-third of an inch in thickness, cut out with a knife into squares larger than soda crackers, fold each in half to form three-cornered pieces, bake on a hot griddle eight or ten minutes; brown on each side. Sally Lunn. One quart of flour, a piece of butter the size of an egg, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, two teacups of milk, twe tea- spoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of soda, and a little salt. ScMter the cream of tartar, the sugar and the salt into the flour; add the eggs, the butter melted and one cup of milk; dissoR* tha 38 SANDWICHES. soda in the remaining cup, and stir all together steadily a few moments. Bake in two round pans. Sally Lunn, No. 2. Sift together one quart flour, one teaspoonful salt, two teaspoon- fuls baking powder; rub in two-thirds cup butter cold; add four beaten eggs, one-half pint milk; mix into a firm batter like cup cake, pour into two round cake tins, and bake twenty-five minutes in a pretty hot oven. Plain Shokt Cake. One quart flour, one saltspoonful salt, two heaping teaspoon!' uls baking powder; mix thoroughly; then add one-quarter pound butter, and one-eighth pound lard, and enough cold water to make a thick paste. Roll out about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut into squares; prick with a fork and bake immediately. Scotch Shokt Cake. Sift together one and a half pints flour, four tablespoonfuls sugar, one-half teaspoonful salt, a heaping teaspoonful baking powder; rub in four tablespoonfuls butter cold, add three beaten eggs, nearly one cupful milk, a teaspoonful extract of orange, or lemon; mix into a smooth dough without much handling, and roll out to the thickness of a quarter inch, and cut into shape of small envelopes; wash over with milk, and lay on each three thin slices of citrom and a few caraway seeds. Bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. SANDWICHES. Ham Sandwiches. Take well-boiled ham, one-third fat and two-thirds lean, chop it until it is as fine as paste, then stir in the yolk of an egg. To one teaspoonful mustard, mix one tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce. Use this or more in such proportions as you may require. SANDWICHES. 39 Egg Sandwiches. Take slices of buttered bread and grate hard-boiled eggs on each slice with a coarse grater, sprinkle with pepper and salt; then lay two slices together. This sandwich may be varied by grating a layer of cold smoked tongue or ham over the egg on one slice and not on the other. These require a light and dexterous hand to keep the egg from being crushed. Sardine Sandwiches. Open a can of sardines, remove the skin and bones, lay bits of the fish on well-spread bread and butter; squeeze lemon over it; lay a slice of buttered bread on top. School Lunch Sandwiches. Beat three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of milk, saltspoonful «f salt, and a dash of pepper; fry it as you would a griddle cake, and lay between buttered bread or biscuit, or slice hard-boiled eggs or nice stewed codfish left cold, and lay between slices of bread and butter. Oyster Sandwiches. Chop one quart raw oysters very fine, season with pepper, salt, a little nutmeg; mix with one-half cupful melted butter, the same of rich cream, whites of three eggs beaten, and eight powdered crackers. Heat them over steam in an oatmeal boiler or over the fire until a smooth paste; set away until very cold; then cut and lay between buttered slices of bread. Tongue or Ham Sandwiches. Chop fine the lean of cold boiled tongue or ham, season with prepared mustard and black pepper; add melted butter and sweet cream until smooth like a paste, then spread between buttered slices of bread. 40 TOAST TOAST, Cream Toast. Take slices of stale bread, one quart of milk, three Tablespoonfuls butter, whites of three eggs beaten'stiff, salt, and three tablespoon- fuls Hour. Toast the bread to a golden brown, have a dish half full of boding water in which a tablespoon ful of butter has been melted; as each slice is toasted dip it in this for a second and lay- in the deep heated dish in which it is to be served. Have ready, by the time the bread is all toasted, the milk scalding hot, but not boiling; thicken this with the flour; let simmer until cooked; put m the remaining butter, and when this is melted the beaten whites of the eggs; boil up once and pour over the toast, lifting the slices that the cream may run between; cover closely; set in the oven a few moments before sending to the table. Breakfast Toast. Mix two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, and a well-beaten eo-g, in one-half pint of milk. In this mixture dip slices of bread and fry them on a buttered griddle until they are light brown on each side. Cheese and Egg Toast. Put a cupful of cheese crumbs into half a pint of rich milk; boil until it melts. Have two eggs well beaten. Season the milk with salt, pepper and butter to taste; turn in the eggs; stir rapidly for a few minutes; remove from the fire and spread it over some hot slices of toasted bread. Cut them in halves and quarters and serve on a hot platter. Ham Toast. Melt in a stew pan a small piece of butter till it is browned a little; put in as much finely-minced ham as will cover a round of buttered toast, and add gravy enough to make moist. When quite hot stir in quickly with a fork one egg. Place the mixture ov^y the toast, which cut into pieces of any shape you may fancy. WAFFLES. 41 Spanish Toast. Beat three eggs to a foam; toast a few slices of bakers' bread; dip them in the egg, and fry them to a light brown. Fried Bread. Take dry bread, dip it in hot water quickly, and lay on a hot pancake griddle, which has some lard or butter melted, salt; when nicely browned on one side, turn on the other and brown; add more butter when needed. Some prefer the bread dipped in egg first. WAFFLES. One quart of sweet milk, warm, four eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, one teaspoonful of salt, teacup of yeast, flour enough to make a stiff batter; let it rise three hours. Bake in waffle-irons. Waffles, No. 2. Four eggs, whites beaten separately; two tablespoonfuls short- ening, one quart milk, one teaspoonful soda, salt; add the whites last; add two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar to flour enough to mak« thin batter. Waffles, No. 3. One pint sour cream (or part milk), two eggs, one spoonful soda, half spoonful salt; then make same as above. Waffles, No. 4. One pint of buttermilk, flour enough to make a thin batter, one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda; mix your milk, flour and salt, then sift the soda over the batter; break the white of one egg in a plate and put the yolk in the batter; beat in well; now whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth and stir in thoroughly — do not beat it in. Have the waffle-iron smoking hot and grease with lard or other grease, whieh should be free from either vater 42 WAFFLES. or salt, as both make the waffles stick. If the milk be very sour, use more soda to sweeten it. Sour batter will slick to the irons, too. Bread Waffles. Crusts and pieces can be put in a pitcher and milk poured over them; when needed, add more milk, and a little flour, to make the right consistency; enough soda to make sweet, salt, and make waf- lles, or pancakes. Rick Waffles. One and one-half cups of boiled rice, the same of flour, one cup sour milk, a scant teaspoonful soda, a little salt, three eggs, and butter the size of a walnut. Graham Wafers. Put a pinch of salt into one-half pound of Graham flour; wet it with one-half pint of sweet cream; mix quickly and thoroughly; roll out as thin as possible; cut in strips, prick, and bake in a quick oven. Sweet Wapeks. One pint flour, one cup sugar, three eggs, one tablespoonful butter; flavor with lemon; mix into a batter with a little milk to cue consistency of sponge cake, and bake in wafer-irons. CHAPTER III. C AKE. t Almond Cake. OUR cups sifted flour, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, two cups powdered sugar, one cup butter, ten eggs (the yolks and v$s> whites whipped separately, the yolks strained), one-half pound sweet almonds blanched and pounded, one tablespoonful orange-flower water, nutmeg. Beat butter and sugar until they are like whipped cream, add the strained yolks, rub the baking powder into the flour and add alternately Avith the whites, then the almond paste in which the nutmeg and orange-flower water have been mixed; beat well and bake as "snowballs" in small, round, rather deep pans, with straight sides; when done cover with almond frost* ing. Very rich. Almond Cake, No. 2. One and one-half cups sugar, half cup butter, four eggs, half cup milk, two cups of flour, two teaspoonfuls baking powder; bake in sheets. Icing — whites of three eggs beaten stiff, three tablespoon- fuls white sugar, one cup chopped nut meats; flavor to taste and put these between and on top of layers. Adelaide Cakk, One cup butter, one and one-half cups sugar, four eggs, one pint flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one cup dried stoned cherries, one-half cup milk, one teaspoonful vanilla; mix smoothl) into a firm batter by beating the sugar, butter and eggs together. and adding the flour with the baking powder and the other ingredi ents. Bake about forty minutes. 44 CAKE. Apple Cake. Two eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, one and one-half cups sugar, scant three-fourths cup butter, half cup sweet milk, three cups flour, one teaspoonful cream of tartar sifted in the flour, Hie-half teaspoonful soda in the milk. Bake in jelly tins or cut for dressing. Dressing for Same. Three good sized sour apples grated, the juice and grated rind of one lemon, one egg beaten, one cup sugar. Cook all together three minutes and spread between the layers. Angels' Food. Take the whites of eleven eggs, one and one-half tumblerfuls of granulated sugar, one tumblerful of flour, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one teaspoonful of cream of tartar; sift the flour four times, then add the cream of tartar, and sift again; but have the right measure before putting in the cream of tartar. Sift the sugar and measure. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth on a large platter; on the same platter add the sugar lightly, then the flour very gently, then the vanilla; do not stop beating until you put it in the pan to hake; bake forty minutes in a very moderate oven, try with a straw, and if too soft, let it remain a few minutes longer. Turn the pan upside down to cool, and when cold, take out by loosening around the sides with a knife. Use a pan that has never been greased, ami there must be on the edge three projections of tin an inch or two deep, so that there will be a space between the pan and the table when it is turned upside down. The tumbler for measuring must hold two and one-quarter gills. Andalusia Sponge Cake. Three eggs, well beaten, one cup white sugar, one cup flour, and one teaspoonful baking powder; flavor to suit the taste. Beat -quickly and bake at once. Black Fruit Cake. Two pounds raisins, one pound currants, one-half pound citron. CAKE. 45 four cups sugar, two cups butter, one cup molasses, eight eggs, two teaspoonfuls soda, one wine glass brandy, five cups flour, spice to taste. Half of this receipt makes two small loaves. Bride Cake. The whites of sixteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one pound of sugar, one pound of flour, one-half pound of butter. Flavor with almond. Mix the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the eggs, then the flour. Bride Cake, No. 2. One and one-half pounds butter, one and three-fourths pounds sugar (half New Orleans sugar), two pounds eggs well-beaten, four pounds raisins seeded and chopped, English currants, thoroughly cleaned, five pounds, citron shaved fine two pounds, sifted flour two pounds, two nutmegs, and an equal quantity of mace, one gill of alcohol, in which are put fif- teen drops of oil of lemon. Cut the butter in pieces and put it where it will soften; stir it tc> a cream, then add the sugar and work till white; next beat the yolks of the egg*, and add them to the sugar and butter; have the whites beaten to a stiff froth and add them to 'the mixture, then the spices 'and flour, and last of all the fruit except the citron, which is to be put in in about three layers, one an inch from the bottom, one an inch from the top, and one between; smooth the top of the cake by putting on a spooonful of water. Bake three or four hours. Bread Cake. Four cups light dough, two cups sugar, one cup butter, three eggs, one cup raisins, a little nutmeg, one-half teaspoonful cloves, 46 CAKE. the same of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful soda, dissolved in hot water. Let it rise a short time before baking, then put in the raisins and bake in a very slow oven. Black Cake. Two cups brown sugar, one cup butter, one cup molasses, one cup sour milk, in which dissolve one teaspoonful soda, the yolks c e flight eggs, four cups of browned flour, and spice to your taste. Bridgeport Cake. One cup butter, two cups brown sugar, one cup sour milk, thref and one-half cups flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful saleratus, one cup raisins, spice and one glass brandy. Butternut Cake. One and one-half cups sugar, one-half cup butter, two cups flour, three-fourths cup sweet milk, one cup meats of nuts, whites of four egg*, and two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Boston Cream Cake. One-half pint water, one-fourth pound butter, six ounces flour, five eggs. Boil the butter and water together, adding the flour wh?le they are boiling; when thoroughly stirred take it from the fire; when it is cold add the eggs, one at a time, beating the mixture until it is entirely free from lumps. Wet the baking pai> with a little soda water, drop the mixture onto the pan by spoon fuls. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven; avoid opening the ovec door while baking. When the cakes are cool, open them on one side and fill with the following mixture: One cup sugar, one-half cup flour, two eggs, and one pint milk. Beat the eggs, sugar, and flour together, and stir them into the milk while it is boiling, stir ring constantly until it thickens; when cold, flavor to suit the taste Cocoanut Cake. Two beaten eggs, one cup sugar, rolled fine, one-third cup butter, one-half cup milk, two cups flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Bake in layers and put together with frosting CAKE. 47 and a layer of desiccated cocoanut which has been previously- soaked in milk; frost the top of the cake and sprinkle thickly with the cocoanut. Cocoanut Cake, No. 2. One cup butter, three cups sugar, whites of six eggs, four and one-half cups sifted flour, two and one-half teaspoonfuls baking powder, one grated cocoanut, and one cup milk. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, add the whites of the eggs, then the milk; mix the baking powder with the flour by sifting. After all are mixed together put in the cocoanut, mixing thoroughly, and bake imme- diately. This cake will keep for some time, retaining its freshness. Chocolate Cake. One-half cup butter, two cups sugar, four eggs, one cup sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful soda, one teaspoonful vanilla. Bake in layers. Paste for Same. — One-half cake chocolate warmed in the oven ten minutes, one heaping teaspoonful white sugar, one teaspoon- ful cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful ground cloves, a pinch of ginger, and two teaspoonfuls vanilla. Pour a little water on the sugar, put it on the chocolate, heat on the stove and put in the spice when boiled. Corn Starch Cake. Take whites of three eggs, one cup white sugar, one-third cup butter, one-half cup milk, one cup flour, one cup corn starch, one teaspoonful soda and two of cream of tartar; flavor with lemon or vanilla. Corn Starch Cake, No. 2. Whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, one cup butter, two cups sugar, one cup sweet milk, one cup corn starch, two cups flour, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, one teaspoonful soda; flavor to suit the taste. «8 CAKE. COFFEE Cake. Take two eggs, well beaten, one-half cup butter, one-half cup sugar, one eup molasses, one cup strong cold coffee, one teaspoonful cinnamon, one teaspoonful cloves, one teaspoonful allspice, one teaspoonful soda stirred into the molasses, one cup of raisins, Hour to make o( the consistency of pound cake. Chocolate Eclaibs. Make a batter as for " Boston Cream Cake," form it with a spoon on the baking pan into long narrow cakes, leaving a space between; when baked ami cold make an opening in the side and put in tho cream, which must also be cold. Make the cream as follows: Break, dissolve, and mix smoothly one ounce o( chocolate with three tablespoonfuls warm water in a bowl; set over a boiling tea-kettle, add gradually a cup o( milk and leave it to scald; beat one egg and add to it one-half oup of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls corn starch; mix well and stir into the scalded milk, then put the whole into the bowl over the boiling water, and stir till it is much thicker than boiled custard; add a very little salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla; after tilling the cakes with the custard, 'rest with hot icing with two ounces of chocolate dissolved in it. Vrost the top only. Charlotte Caches. One thick loaf of sponge or plain cup cake, two kinds of fruit- jelly, tart and sweet, whites of five eggs, one heaping cup of pow- dered sugar, juice of one lemon. Cut the cake into horizontal slices of uniform width; spread each with jelly — first the tart, then the sweet — and tit into their former places; ice thickly with a frosting made of the whites, sugar, and lemon-juice; set in a sunny window or slow oven, to harden. The former is the better plan. Cider Cake. Cue t'lij) of sugar, half cup of butter, one egg, well-beaten, one large cup of cider, one teaspoonful of soda, flour sufficient to make CAKE. 49 it as thick as pound cake. One cup of raisins can be added if desired. Cake Without Eggs. One cup butter, three cups sugar, one pint sour milk or cream, three cups flour, one pound raisins, one teaspoonful saleratus; spice to taste. Cream Puffs. Melt one-half cup of butter in a cup of hot water, and while boiling beat in one cup of flour. Take it from the fire and when cool stir in three eggs, one at a time, without beating them. Drop the mixture on tins in small spoonfuls and bake in a moderate oven. Custard for the Filling. — One and one-half cups of milk, two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of flour, sugar to the taste, and flavor with vanilla. Beat up the eggs and sugar and stir in the milk with the flavoring, and when it comes to a boil stir in the flour, previ- ously mixed smooth in a little milk. Cool and fill the puffs by- opening them a very little. Citron Cake. One cup of butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, one cup of milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt Make the cake as above, put in the pan, cut the gitron thin and put in the cake endways; push down until the batter covers the citron, and tfhis will prevent the citron from falling to the bottom of the pan. Cream Cake. Three eggs, one cup of sugar, one cup of flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one-half cup of sweet cream. Bake like jelly cake. Put one cup of pulverized white sugar into one-half cup of very thick sweet cream, and spread between the cakes; flavor both the cake and cream to suit taste. This is delicious. Chocolate Cake, No. 2. One cup white sugar, one-half cup sweet milk, one-half cup melted butter, whites of four eggs beaten stiff, one and one-half 50 CAKE. cups flour, with three teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted in. Bake on three tins. Take whites of two eggs and make a frosting as for any other cake; add one teaspoonful vanilla and two-thirds cake of German sweet chocolate grated. Spread between layers but not on the top one. Take white of one egg to ice the top and Bides. Do not frost the cake until cool. The same cake recipe may be used for cocoanut. Christmas Cake. Take five pounds of flour, mix with it a dessert-spoonful of salt, rub in three-quarters of a pound of butter and one pound of lard. Put in half a pint of good fresh brewers' yeast, and knead as for common bread. If there is any difficulty about the yeast, baking pow- der may be used, allowing a heaped teaspoonful of ordi- nary baking powder for every i pound of material. If yeast is used, let the dough rise before adding the other in- CmusTMAs Cake. gredients. Mix in three pounds of currants, one and one-half pounds of moist sugar, a whole nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon peel finely minced., a tablespoonful of brandy, and four eggs, well-beaten. Butter the mold and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours. Cinnamon Cake. Three-fourths of a cup of butter, a cup of white sugar, one and one-half cups flour, four eggs (yolks and whites beaten separately), a tablespoonf id of sweet milk, one and one-half teaspoonfuls baking powder, lemon, and a little salt. Rub the baking powder into the ilour. CAKE. 51 Cinnamon Cake. One cup sour cream, one cup sugar, one-half cup melted butter, one egg, one-half teaspoonful soda. Mix as for cookies, roll out, and spread ground cinnamon over the top; then roll up as a roll jelly cake and slice off with a sharp knife and bake. Any good cookie recipe will do. Cup Cake. Rub to a cream one cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add four beaten eggs, and three cups of flour, into which one and one- half teaspoonfuls of baking powder have been sifted, season with extract of almonds; mix into a smooth batter and bake in well- greased cups or muffin pans. Cocoanut Pound Cake. Beat half a pound of butter to a cream; add gradually one pound of powdered sugar, four well-beaten eggs, one pound of flour sifted with two tablespoonfuls baking powder, a pinch of salt, a teaspoon- ful of grated lemon peel, one-fourth pound of prepared cocoanut, and a cup of milk; mix thoroughly, butter the tins, and line them with buttered paper; pour the mixture in to the depth of one and one-half inches, and bake in a good oven; when baked spread icing over them. Return the cake to the oven a moment to dry the icing. Clove Cake. One pound of brown sugar, one pound of flour, one pound of raisins, one-half pound of butter, one cup of milk, two large tea- spoonfuls of baking powder stirred well into the flour, one table- spoonful of cloves, one tablespoonful cinnamon, one tablespoonful of nutmeg, four eggs; chop the raisins. For less quantity divide proportionately. Delicate Cake. One and one-half cups of granulated sugar, one cup of butter, two-thirds cup of milk, whites of six eggs beaten to a stiff froth, three even cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder ptf* 52 CAKE. in the flour and mixed; stir butter and sugar well together, to them add the milk, then put in the flour, and last add the beaten eggs; flavor with lemon. Stir the whole mixture well. Delicious Cake. Two cups of white sugar, one cup of butter, one cup milk, three eggs, one teaspoonful soda, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, three cups of sifted flour. Stir butter and sugar together, then add the beaten yolks of the eggs, then the beaten whites; dissolve the soda in the milk, rub the cream of tartar into the flour and add; flavor with extract of bitter almond. Drop Cake. One pound of sugar, three-fourths of a pound of butter, one and one-fourth pounds flour, five eggs. To be dropped by the table- spoonful on buttered pans and baked. Dough Cake. Two cups light dough, two cups sugar, one cup butter, half cup milk, two eggs, one and a half cups flour, one teaspoonful soda, one cup raisins; flavor with nutmeg and cinnamon. Dover Cake. Rub to a cream one cup of butter and two cups of sugar, add six eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between each addition, one cup of milk, one and one-half pints of flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder; season with one teaspoonful each of extract of cinnamon and orange; bake in rather hot oven forty minutes. Dundee Cake. Whip to a cream one and one-half cups of butter and the same amount of sugar; add eight eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes between each addition, one-half cup of cream or milk, one and one- half pints of flour, sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half of a lemon peel cut in thin slices, one cup of washed, picked, and dried currants, one and one-half cups sultana raisins,. CAKE. 53 -one teaspoonful each of extract nutmeg, cloves, and vanilla; mix into a firm batter, pour into a shallow, square cake pan; chop one cup of almonds coarsely and sprinkle over the top; then bake one hour in a moderate oven. Dried Apple Cake. Two cups of dried apples, chopped fine and soaked in water over night, then cook in one cup 'of molasses until soft; add one cup each of butter, sugar, and sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one teaspoonful each of cinnamon, cloves and lemon extract, one nut- meg. A cup of raisins may be added. Bake in a greased cake dish in a moderate oven. Flour for stiff batter. Election Cake. Beat one and one-half cups of butter and two cups of sugar to a white, light cream; add three eggs, beating a little longer, one and one-half pints of flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls baking powder, two cups of raisins, stoned, one cup of currants well cleaned, one- half cup chopped citron, one-half of a lemon peel, chopj^ed, one-half cup of almonds, blanched and cut into shreds, one teaspoonful each of extract of vanilla and of bitter almonds, one cup of milk; mix into a consistent batter, put into a paper-lined tin and bake in a moderate, steady oven one and one-half hours. Everyday Fruit Cake. One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, two cups of sour milk, two th vanilla if desired. This amount makes about fifty drops. Chocolate Kisses. One pound of sugar and two ounces of chocolate pounded together 1ad finely sifted; mix with the whites of eggs well beaten to a froth; drop on buttered paper and bake slowly. Fruit Candy. One and one-half pounds of granulated sugar, wet with the milk -of a cocoanut; put into a sauce-pan and let it heat slowly; boil rapidly five minutes, then add one cocoanut grated very fine, and boil ten minutes longer, stirring constantly. Try a little on a cold plate, and if it forms a firm paste when cool, take from the fire. Pour part of it out on to a large tin lined with greased paper; then add to the remaining cream one-fourth pound of stoned raisins, one-half pound of blanched almonds, one pint of pecans, one-half cup of chopped walnuts. Pour over the other cream, and when cool cut into bars and squares. x Hickory-nut Candy. Boil two cups of sugar, one-half cup of water, without stirring, until thick enough to spin a thread; flavor; set the dish off into" cold water; stir quickly until white, then stir in one cup of hicko- ry-nut meats; turn into a flat tin, and when cool cut into squares. Horehound Candy. Prepare a strong decoction, by boiling two ounces of the dried herb in a pint and a half of water for about half an hour; strain CONFECTIONERY. 95 this, and add three and one-half pounds of brown sugar; boil over a hot fire until it reaches the requisite degree of hardness, when it may be poured out in flat tin trays, previously well greased, and marked into sticks or squares with a knife, as it becomes cool enough to retain its shape. Lemon-Cream Candy. Six pounds best white sugar, strained juice of two lemons, grated peel of one lemon, one teaspoonful of soda, three cups clear water. Steep the grated peel of the lemon in the juice for an hour; strain, squeezing the cloth hard to get out all the strength. Pour the water over the sugar, and, when nearly dissolved, set it over the fire and bring to a boil. Stew steadily until it hardens in cold water; stir in the lemon; boil one minute; add the dry soda, stirring in well; and, instantly, turn out upon broad, shallow dishes. Pull as soon as you can handle it, into long Avhite ropes, and cut into lengths when brittle. Vanilla cream candy is made in the same way, with the substitu- tion of vanilla flavoring for the lemon-juice and peel. Lemon and Peppermint Drops. Take of dry granulated sugar a convenient quantity; place it in a saucepan having a lip from which the contents may be poured or dropped. Add a very little water, just enough to make, with the sugar, a stiff paste; two ounces of water to a pound of sugar is about the right proportion. Set it over the fire and allow it to nearly boil, keeping it continually stirred. It must not actually come to a full boil, but must be removed from the fire just as soon as the bubbles, denoting that the boiling point is reached, begin to rise. Allow the syrup to cool a little, stirring all the time; add strong essence of peppermint or lemon to suit the taste, and drop on tins or sheets of smooth white paper. The dropping is per- formed by tilting the vessel slightly, so that the contents will run out, and with a small piece of stiff wire the drops may be stroked off on to the tins or paper. They should be kept in a warm place 96 CONFECTIONERY. for a few hours to dry. In the season of fruits, delicious drops may be made by substituting the juice of fresh fruits, as straw berry, raspberry, lemon, pineapple or banana, or any of these essences may be used. Molasses Candy. Into a kettle holding at least four times the amount of molasses to be used, pour a convenient quantity of Porto Rico molasses; place over a slow fire and boil for a half hour, stirring all the time to diminish as much as possible the increase of bulk caused by boil- ing, and checking the fire or removing the kettle if there is any danger of the contents running over. Be very careful not to let the candy burn, especially near the close of the boiling. When a little, dropped in cold water, becomes quickly hard and snaps apart like a pipestem, add a teaspoonful of carboftate of soda, free from lumps, to every two quarts; stir quickly to mix, and pour on greased platters to cool. When the candy is sufficiently cool to handle without burning the hands, it is pulled back and forth, the hands being rubbed with a little butter (do not use flour) to prevent the candy from sticking to them. The more the candy is worked, the lighter it will be in color. White Molasses Candy. Take two pounds of refined sugar (termed by grocers " Coffee C "), one pint of pure sugar-house syrup, and one pint' best Porto Rico or New Orleans molasses. Boil together until it hardens, as above described, add one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and work in the usual manner. Peanut Candy. One scant pint of molasses, four quarts of peanuts, measured before they are shelled, two tablespoonfuls of vanilla, one teaspoon- ful of soda. Boil the molasses until it hardens in cold water, when dropped from the spoon. Stir in the vanilla, then the soda, dry. Lastly, the shelled peanuts. Turn out into shallow pans well buttered, and press it down smooth with a wooden spoon. CONFECTIONERY. 97 We can heartily recommend the candy made according to this receipt as being unrivaled of its kind. The molasses should be good in quality, and the peanuts freshly roasted. Pop-Corn Balls. Add one ounce of white gum arabic to a half pint of water, and let it stand until dissolved. Strain, add one pound of refined sugar and boil until wherj cooled it becomes very thick, so much so as to be stirred with difficulty. To ascertain when it has reached this point, a little may be cooled in a saucer. A convenient quantity of the freshly popped corn having been placed in a milk pan, enough of the warm syrupy candy is poured on and mixed by stirring, to cause the kernels to adhere in a mass, portions of which may be formed into balls by pressing them into the proper shape with the hands. Ordinary molasses, or sugar-house syrup may be used as well, by being boiled to the same degree, no gum being necessary with these materials. Corn cake is prepared in a similar manner. This mass, while warm, is put into tins and pressed by rollers into thin sheets, which are afterwards divided into small, square cakes. Taffy. Either of the two kinds of molasses candy, if poured from the kettle into tin trays without working, will produce a fine plain taffy. It may be left in one sheet the size of the tray, or, when slightly cold, may be marked off in squares. Efferton Taffy. This is a favorite English confection. To make it take three pounds of the best brown sugar and boil with one and one-hall pints of water, until the candy hardens in cold water. Then add one-half pound of sweet-flavored, fresh butter, which will soften the candy. Boil a few minutes until it again hardens and pour it into trays. Flavor with lemon if desired. 1 98 CONFECTIONERY. Vinegar Candy. Three cups white sugar; one and one-half cups clear vinegar; stir the sugar into the vinegar until thoroughly dissolved; heat to a gentle boil, and stew uncovered until it ropes from the tip of the spoon. Turn out upon broad dishes, well buttered, and cool, and, as soon as it can be handled, pull. It can be pulled beautifully- white and porous. Vinegar Candy, No. 2. To one quart of good New Orleans molasses, add one cup of good cider vinegar; boil until it reaches the point where a little dropped into cold water becomes very hard and brittle. Pour into shallow platters until cool enough to be handled, and form into a large roll, which may be drawn down to any size and cut off in sticks. Walnut Candy. The meats of hickory-nuts, English walnuts, or black walnuts may be used according to preference in that regard. After removal from the shells in as large pieces as practicable, they are to be placed on the bottoms of tins, previously greased, to the depth of about a half inch. Next, boil two pounds of brown sugar, a half pint of water, and one gill of good molasses until a portion of the mass hardens when cooled. Pour the hot candy on the meats and allow it to remain until hard. Meringues. Take one pound of powdered sugar, and add to it the beaten whites of eight eggs (slowly), until it forms a stiff froth; fill a tablespoon with the paste, and smooth it over with another spoon to the desired shape; sift a little sugar over a sheet of paper, drop the meringues about two inches apart; dust a little sugar over them, and bake in a quick oven with the door left open part way, so they can be continually watched; when fawn colored, take them out; remove them from the paper with a thin knife; scrape out of each a little of the soft part. They may be neatly arranged CONFECTIONERY. 99 around a dish of whipped cream, or filled with ice cream. If whipped cream is used, they would be improved by the addition of a little bright jelly inside each meringue. Cream Meringues. Four eggs (the whites only), whipped stiff, with one pound pow- dered sugar, lemon or vanilla flavoring. When very stiff, heap in the shape of half an egg upon stiff letter-paper lining the bottom of your baking pan. Have them half an inch apart. Do not shut the oven door closely, but leave space through which you can watch them. When they are a light yellow-brown, take them out and cool quickly. Slip a thin bladed knife under each; scoop out the soft inside and fill with cream whipped as for charlotte russe. They are very fine. The oven should be very hot. Macaroox. Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched sweet almonds and one and one-fourth pounds of lump sugar until they are fine; then add one-half pound of corn starch, one-fourth pound of rice or wheat flour; mix into a fine smooth batter with the whites of about eight eggs. Drop the mixture in small quantities through a cornucopia on a sheet of paper, dust with sugar, and bake in a steady oven. They should be baked a fawn color. Bachelor Buttons. Rub two ounces of butter into five ounces of flour; add five ounces of white sugar; add one beaten egg; flavor; roll into small balls with the hands; sprinkle with sugar. Bake on tins covered with buttered paper. Corn Starch Rateffes. One-fourth pound sweet and the same of bitter almonds, one-half pound corn starch, one-fourth pound of rice flour, one and one- fourth pounds of pulverized sugar, the whites of eight eggs. Pro- ceed the same as for macaroons, only drop one-fourth the size. Do not dust with sugar, and bake in a hotter oven. CHAPTER VI. CATSUPS. OOD home-made catsup is a most valuable addition to the store-room, and a good housekeeper will always look with pride upon it as it stands upon the shelves in closely-corked bottles, neatly labeled, feeling, as she may, that she possesses close at hand the means of imparting a delicious flavor to her sauces and gravies without at the same time placing any deleterious compound before her friends. Though excellent preparations are no doubt sold by respectable dealers, the superiority of catsup when made at home is undisputed, and the comfortable certainty attending its use is so great, that we would earnestly recommend every lady who has the time and opportunity to do so, to superintend personally the manufacture of that which is used in the kitchen. It is not well, however, to make a very large quantity, as it is rarely improved by being long kept. Catsup should be stored in a cool, dry place; the corks should be covered with resin, and the liquid should be exam- ined frequently, and if there are the slightest signs of fermentation or mold, it should be re-boiled with a few pepper-corns, and put into fresh, dry bottles. Always select perfect fruit, and cook in a porcelain-lined kettle. Currant Catsup. Boil five pints of ripe currants in one pint of vinegar until soft;, strain all through a sieve, then add three pints of sugar, and one tablespoonfui each of cinnamon and allspice; boil about one hour.. 100 CATSUPS. 101 Cucumber Catsup. Take one-half bushel of full-grown cucumbers, peel and chop them, sprinkle them with salt, aud put them in a sieve and let them stand over night; add two dozen onions, cut up small, one-half pound white mustard seed, one-half pound of black mustard seed, two ounces of black pepper, ground. Mix well with the best cider vinegar, making it the consistency of thick catsup, and fill your jars, tying up closely. It requires no cooking. Gooseberry Catsup. Ten pounds of gooseberries, six pounds of sugar, one quart of vinegar, three tablespoonfuls cinnamon, one tablespoonful each of allspice and cloves. Mash the gooseberries thoroughly; scald and put through the colander; add the sugar and spices, and boil fifteen minutes, then add the vinegar; bottle immediately. Ripe grapes may be prepared in the same manner. Plum Catsup. To three pounds of fruit put one and three-fourths pounds of sugar, one tablespoonful of cloves, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one tablespoonful of pepper, a very little salt; scald the plums and put them through a colander; then add sugar and spices, and boil to the right consistency. Tomato Catsup. Take sound ripe tomatoes, slice and cook until done enough to put through a sieve; then to every gallon of the pulp and juice add one cup of chopped onion, one-half cup of black pepper, four pods of red pepper, cut fine, one-half cup of ground ginger and mustard mixed, one ounce celery seed, one-half cup of allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon, mixed, one-half teaspoonful cloves, two cups of sugar, and sufficient salt to taste distinctly, one pint strong cider vinegar; put all together and cook two hours, or longer if not thick enough. It must not be thin or watery. Bottle and seal while hot, an$ in a good cellar it will keep two years. 102 CATSUPS. Tomato Catsup, No. 2. One bushel of good ripe tomatoes, one-half gallon of cider vine- gar, one-fourth pound of allspice, two ounces of cloves, three tablespoonfuls of black pepper, six large onions or two heads of garlic, one pint of salt, four large red peppers; cook thoroughly, and strain through a sieve, then boil till it is thick enough, and juld the vinegar. CHAPTER VII. DESSERTS. Puddings. ITHOUT pretending to make a skillful cook by book, we 11 believe that any intelligent beginner may compound a good pudding by attending to the following simple rules and plain directions: Attention is all that is required, and a little manual dexterity in turning the pudding out of the mold or cloth. Let the several ingredients be each good and fresh of its kind, aa one bad article, particularly eggs, will taint the whole composition Have the molds and pudding cloths carefully washed when used the cloths with wood ashes, and dried in the open air. Lay them aside sweet and thoroughly dry. Pudding ought to be put into plenty of boiling water, which must be kept on a quick boil; or, baked, in general in a sharp but not scorching oven. A pudding in which there is much bread must be tied loosely, to allow room for swelling. A batter pudding should be tied up firmly. Molds should be quite full, well buttered and covered with a fold or two of paper floured and buttered. Eggs for puddings must be used in greater quantities when of small size. The yolks and whites, if the pudding is wanted particularly white and nice, should be strained after being separately well beaten. A little salt is neces- sary for all potato, bean, or pease puddings, and all puddings in which there is suet or meat, as it improves the flavor. The several ingredients, after being well stirred together, should in general have a little time to stand, that the flavors may blend. A frequent fault of boiled puddings, which are often solid bodies, is being 104 DESSERTS. underdone. Baked puddings are as often scorched. Puddings may be steamed with advantage, placing the mold or basin in the steamer and keeping the water boiling under it. When the pud- ding-cloths are to be used, dip them in hot water, and dredge them with flour; the molds must be buttered. When a pudding begins to set, stir it up in the dish, if it is desired that the fruit, etc., should not settle to the bottom; and, if boiled, turn over the cloth in the pot for the same reason, and also to prevent it sticking to the bottom, on which a plate may be laid as a preventive. The time of boiling must be according to size and solidity. When the pud- ding is taken out of the pot, dip it quickly into cold water. Set it in a basin of its size; it will then more readily separate from the cloth without breaking. Remember that sugar, butter, and suet become liquids in boiling; it is from their excess that puddings often break. Be, therefore, rather sparing of sugar; for if you have much syrup you must have more eggs and flour, which make puddings heavy. It is often the quantity of sugar that makes tapioca and arrowroot, boiled plain, troublesome to keep in shape when molded. Rice or other grain puddings must not be allowed to boil in the oven before setting, or the ingredients will separate and never set; so never put them in >a very hot oven. As a rule, We may assume that such flavoring ingredients as lemon — grate or juice, vanilla and cocoanut, are more admired in modern puddings than cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Care must be taken to mix batter puddings smoothly. Let the dried flour be gradually mixed with a little of the milk, as in making starch, and afterwards, in nice cookery, strain it through a coarse sieve. Puddings are lighter boiled than baked. Raisins, prunes, and damsons, for puddings must be carefully stoned; or, Sultanas may be used in place of other raisins; currants must be picked and plunged in hot water, rubbed in a floured cloth, and plumped and dried before the fire; almonds must be blanched and sliced; and in mixing grated bread, pounded biscuit, etc., with milk, pour the milk on them while hot, and cover the vessel for an hour, which is both better and easier DESSERTS. 105 than boiling. Suet must be quite fresb and free from fiber. Mut- ton suet for puddings is lighter than beef; but marrow, when it can be obtained, is richer than either. A baked pudding, for com- pany, has often a paste border, or a garnishing of blanched and sliced almonds about it, but these borders are merely matters of ornament; if molded, puddings may also be garnished in various ways, as with bits of currant jelly. The best seasoning for plain batter puddings are extracts of orange or lemon, or orange-flower' water. The sweetness and flavor of pudding must, in most cases, be determined by individual tastes. Sugar can be added at table- To Young Housekeepers. All young housekeepers should learn as soon as possible how to prepare dishes for dessert which can be made on very short notice, that they may not be annoyed in the event of unexpected company to dinner. In summer, fruit answers every purpose, but at othe^ seasons, and particularly if the first course is not very elaborate- she will need to have something more substantial. A delicious pudding can be made in a few minutes by taking one pint of milk and stirring into it half a cup of cassava, half a cup of cocoanut, two eggs, a little butter, salt and sugar to taste; flavor with vanilla. Cook this as you would boiled custard. When cooked and put in the dish in which it is to be served, pour over the top the white of' •one egg beaten to a stiff froth, with a tablespoonful of pulverized sugar added. Set it in the oven for a short time to brown. This may be eaten warm or cold, with jelly or preserves or without. Another dish which is easily made and which is economical as well as palatable, is to take slices of cake which are a little dry and pour over them while hot some boiled custard; cover the dish quickly, and the hot custard will steam the cake sufficiently. Raisin cake steamed and served with some pudding sauce is good. Velvet cream, to be eaten with cake, is made in this way: Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth; add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, two tablespoonfuls of raspberry 106 DESSERTS. jam; beat all well together; cream may be added or not, as you choose. Oranges cut up, with sugar and grated cocoanut sprinkled over them are also nice for cake. Arrowroot Pudding. One quart milk, three and one-half tablespoonf uls arrowroot, four eggs, one cup sugar, one teaspoonful each of extract nutmeg and cinnamon. Boil the milk, add the arrowroot dissolved in a little water, and the sugar; let reboil; take from the fire; beat in the eggs, whipped a little, and the extracts; pour in a well-buttered earthen- ware dish, and bake in a quick oven one-half an hour; a few minutes before taking from the oven, sift two tablespoonfuls sugar over it, and set back to glaze. This pudding is generally eaten cold. Almond Pudding. Two egg muffins, one cup almonds, blanched — pouring boiling water on them till the skin slips easily off — and pounded to a fine paste, one and one-half cups sugar, four eggs, one and one-half pints milk, one teaspoonful each of extract bitter almonds and rose. Cut off the top crust from muffins very thin; steep them in the milk; beat the yolks of the eggs and sugar with the almonds, then add the steeped muffins squeezed a little dry; dilute with the milk, add the extract, and put it thus prepared into a well-buttered earthenware dish; then stir gently in the whites beaten to a dry froth, and bake in a moderately quick oven about one-half hour. Pie-Plant Charlotte. Wash and cut the pie-plant into small pieces, cover the bottom of a pudding dish with a layer of pie-plant and sugar, then a layer of bread crumbs and bits of butter, or thin slices of bread nicely buttered, and so on until the dish is full. Bake three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. If preferred, turn over the charlotte a boiled custard when ready for the table. DESSERTS. 10? Croquettes of Rice. Put a quarter of a pound of rice, one pint of milk, three table- spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, a piece of butter the size of a small nut and the thin rind of a lemon, into a saucepan. Any other flavoring may be used if preferred. Simmer gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be boiled until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould into croquettes. Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes, then turn it out, and when it is cold and still, form it into small balls; dip these in egg, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over them, and fry them in clar- ified fat till they are lightly and equally browned. Put them on a piece of clean ^gjk 1 blotting paper, to drain the fat from them, and serve them piled high on the dish. If it can be done without breaking them, it is an improvement to introduce a little jam into the middle of each one; or jam maybe served with them. Time, about one hour to boil the rice, ten minutes to fry the croquettes. Bombes au Riz. Take half a pint of rice, put in three pints of boiling water, and salt. Let it boil fifteen minutes. At the end of that time drain the rice, pour on milk enough to cover it; put it on the back part of the stove, where it will not burn, and let it absorb the milk; put in enough milk to make the rice soft. While the milk is being absorbed add four tablespoonfuls of sweetening and one teaspoonf ul of flavoring. When the rice is thoroughly tender take it from the fire and add the yolks of three eggs. If the rice is not hot enough to thicken the eggs, put it back on the fire; stir constantly and let it remain just long enough to thicken, but don't let it burn. As soon as it thickens put it on a dish and rub with salad oil; then put it where it will get very cold. As soon as cold it is ready to use 108 DESSERTS. for rice croquets or bombes. Take a tablespoonful of rice in your hand and flatten it; put a plum or any sweetmeat in the center, roll the rice round the sweetmeat, roll in cracker dust, dip in Qgg, then roll in the cracker dust again. Fry in smoking hot lard and, serve hot or cold. Green Corn Pudding. A most delicious accompaniment to a meat course. Take one quart of milk, five eggs, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, one tablespoonful white sugar, and a dozen large ears green corn; grate the corn from the cob; beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately; put the corn and yolks together, stir hard and add the butter, then the milk gradually, beating all the while, next the sugai-, and a little salt, lastly the whites. Bake slow at first, cover- ing the dish for an hour; remove the cover and brown nicely. Cottage Pudding. One cup milk, two of flour, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, one egg, one cup of sugar. Steam three-quarters, or bake one hour. Serve with sauce. Cranberry Roll. - Stew a quart of cranberries in just water enough to keep them from burning. Make very sweet, strain, and cool. Make a paste, and when the cranberry is cold, spread it on the paste about an inch thick. Roll it, tie it close in a flannel cloth, boil two hours and serve with a sweet sauce. Stewed apples or other fruit may be used in the same way. Delmonico Pudding. One quart scalded milk, three tablespoonfuls corn starch, moist- ened with a little cold milk; stir into the boiling milk the yolks of six eggs well beaten, four tablespoonfuls sugar; stir all together. Take it off the fire, flavor it, and put into a pudding dish. Then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, spread over the top, and brown in the oven. DESSERTS. 109 Eve's Pudding. Take equal quantities of flour, fresh butter, and sugar, six ounces of each; beat the butter to a cream, and beat the sugar and flour into it. Separate the yolks from the whites of four eggs, beat them until light, and add the yolks first, then the whites, to the batter, and lastly half a dozen almonds, blanched and pounded, and the grated rind of a lemon. Beat well, and fill small cups to about half; then set before the fire to rise. In five minutes put them into the oven and bake for half an hour. Fig Pudding. Half a pound figs, half cup suet, half a pound bread crumbs, one tablespoonful sugar, three eggs, one cup milk; chop the suet and figs fine, add some cinnamon and nutmeg, and a glass of wine, if you choose, or leave it out if you prefer. Boil it three hours — sauce. Fruit Pudding. Take one cup each sweet milk, suet (minced), raisins, currants, and molasses. Stiffen with bread crumbs and a little flour, having added three teaspoonfuls baking powder to the flour and crumbs; boil or steam till done. This pudding is equally as good the second day as the first. Baked Farina Pudding. Stir into a quart of milk when boiling one-half pound farina, cook it five minutes and set it aside to cool, meanwhile stir four ounces of butter to a cream, grate the rind of a lemon and add the yolk of six eggs, one cup each of sugar, raisins, and currants, and mix all well together with the cooked farina. Beat the whites of the eggs to a froth, stir it into the batter, and bake slowly for an hour. Plain Fruit Pudding. Take one and a half cups of flour, one cup of bread crumbs, one cup of raisins, half a cup of currants, two nutmegs, one cup of suet chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, four eggs, a wine glass 110 DESSERTS. of brandy, a wine glass of syrup, and a little milk if necessary. Mix very thoroughly; tie it in a cloth as tight as possible, and boil fast for five or six hours. Serve with wine sauce. Florentine Pudding. Put a quart of milk into your pan, let it come to a boil; mix smoothly three tablespoonfuls of corn starch and a little cold milk; add the yolks of three eggs beaten, half a cup of sugar, flavor with vanilla, lemon, or anything your fancy suggests; stir into the scalding milk, continue stirring till of the consistency of starch (ready for use), then put into the pan or dish you wish to serve it in; beat the whites of the eggs with a cup of pulverized sugar, and spread over the top ; place in the oven a few minutes, till the frosting is a pretty brown. Can be eaten with cream, or is good enough without. For a change, you can bake in cups. Gelatine Pudding. One ounce gelatine, one pint cold milk; set on range, and let come slowly to a boil, stirring occasionally; separate the yolks and whites of six fresh eggs; beat the yolks well and stir slowly into hot milk; add half a pound of granulated sugar; when quite cold, stir in a quart of whipped cream; flavor with vanilla and lemon extract mixed; have the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff, and stir in the last thing; pack on ice. Ginger Pudding. One egg, one cup of molasses, half a cup butter, half a cup of fruit, half a cup of hot water, one tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of soda. Stir stiff and steam one hour. Sauce for Ginger Pudding. — One egg, one cup sugar, one-third of a cup of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of lemon. Pour boiling water in and make like thin starch. Honey Comb Pudding. Three cups flour, one cup beef suet, one cup milk, one cup DESSERTS. Ill molasses, one cup raisins, currants or whortleberries in the season, one teaspoonful soda, a little salt. Boil or steam three hours — sauce. Huckleberry Pudding. One cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two of milk, two eggs, two cups of berries, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, salt. Mix stiff as gingerbread. Boil two hours in a tin pail. Serve with sauce. Hen's Nest. Make blanc mange, pour in egg shells and set to cool; when cold, break the egg shells, place in glass dish, cut strips of lemon peel and let boil in syrup of sugar and water till tender, and sprinkle on the egg shapes, and make custard and pour over the nest. Indian Pudding. Stir a pint of corn meal into a quart of boiling milk; melt four ounces of butter; mix it first with a' pint of molasses, and then, very gradually, with the meal. Flavor with nutmeg and grated lemon peel, or cinnamon, and as soon as the mixture has cooled, add, stirring briskly, six well-beaten eggs. Butter a dish and bake at once. Apple Pudding. A loaf of stale bread, steamed twenty minutes before dinner, sliced, spread with stewed apple, and a little butter, strewn with sugar and browned lightly in a quick oven, makes as good a pud- ding as any one would like, with either hard or liquid sauce. Apple Batter Pudding. Six or eight fine juicy apples, pared and cored, one quart of milk, ten tablespoonfuls of flour, six eggs, beaten very light, one table- spoonful butter — melted, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful soda, one teaspoonful cream of tartar. Set the apples close together, in the baking dish; put in enough cold water to half cover tbem. a- 5 hate, closelv covered, until the edges are clear, but 112 DESSERTS. not until they begin to break. Drain off the water, and let the fruit get cold before pouring over them a batter made of the ingre- dients enumerated above. Bake in a quick oven. Serve in the baking dish, and eat with sauce. Apple Float. To one quart of apples partially stewed and well mashed, put tbje whites of three eggs well beaten, and four heaping tablespoonfulg loaf sugar; beat them together fifteen minutes, and eat with rich milk and nutmeg. Apple Slump. One quart flour sifted with three teaspoonfals baking powder; shorten with one teaspoonful butter rubbed into the flour. Mix with cold milk or water, the same as for biscuit. Put two quarts of pared, sliced or quartered apples with one pint of water into the dish in which the slump is to be cooked. Roll the crust about an inch thick, cut into quarters and with it cover the apples in the dish; then cover the whole with a close fitting cover, and boil or steam till done. Take out on a platter and grate nutmeg over the apple. Serve with a sweet sauce or sugar and cream. Baked Apple Dumplings. To one quart flour add two heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, and the usual quantity of salt. Thoroughly mix while dry and sift. Then take one tablespoonful lard and one tablespoonful but- ter and chop them into the flour prepared as above. Then mix with sweet milk to a thin dough, just stiff enough to handle. Roll it out half an inch thick and cut into squares. Apples Surprised. Peel, core, and slice about five nice cooking apples, sprinkle the slices with a spoonful of flour, one of grated bread, and a little sugar. Have some lard quite hot in a small stew-pan, put the slices of apple in it, and fry of a light yellow; when all are done, take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a good spoonful of grated DESSERTS. 113 bread, a spoonful of sugar, and a cup of milk; put into the pan, and when they boil up throw in the apple slices, hold the whole over the fire for two minutes, when it will be ready to serve. Amber Pudding. Six eggs beaten light, one cup of cream, creamed with one-half cup of butter, juice of a lemon, and half the grated peel, a good pinch of nutmeg, puff paste. Mix sugar, butter, eggs, together; put into a custard kettle, set in hot water, and stir until it thickens. Stir in lemon and nutmeg, and let it get cold. Put a strip of paste around the edge of a pie plate; print it prettily; pour in the cold mixture, and bake in a steady, not too hot oven. Eat cold. Ambrosia. Eight fine oranges, peeled and sliced, one-half grated cocoanut, one-half cup of powdered sugar. Arrange slices of orange in a glass dish; scatter grated cocoanut thickly over them; sprinkle this lightly with sugar, and cover with another layer of orange. Fill the dish in this order, having a double quantity of cocoanut and sugar at top. Serve soon after it is prepared. Apple Omelette. Six large pippins or other large tart apples, one tablespoonful of butter, three eggs, six tablespoonfuls of white sugar, nutmeg to the taste, and one teaspoonful of rose water; pare, core, and stew the apples, as for sauce; beat them very smooth while hot, adding butter, sugar, and flavoring; when quite cold, add the eggs, beaten separately very light; put in the whites last and pour into a deep bake-dish previously warmed and well buttered. Bake in a mod- erate oven until it is delicately browned. Eat warm — not hot. A wholesome dish for children. Apple Charlotte. Butter your pudding dish, line it with bread buttered on both sides; put a thick layer of apples, cut in thin slices, sugar, a little cinnamon and butter on top, then another layer of bread, apples, 114 DESSERTS. sugar, cinnamon and butter last. Bake slowly one and a half hours, keeping the pan covered until half an hour before serving; let the apples brown on top. Bancroft Pudding. One tablespoonful melted butter, one cup sugar, one egg well beaten, one pint flour, two teaspoonf uls cream of tartar, one of soda, one cup sweet milk; beat well and bake thirty minutes. Bread Pudding. One pint fine bread crumbs to one quart of milk, one cup sugar, yolks of four eggs, well beaten, grated rind of lemon, piece of butter size of an egg. Don't let it bake till watery. Whip the whites of the eggs with one cup sugar to a stiff froth, and put into this the juice of the lemon; spread over the pudding a layer of jelly or other sweemeat; then spread the whites of eggs over this, and replace in the oven and bake lightly. Banana and Apple Tart. Make crust of fine flour and fresh butter. Make little crust, but make it good. Slice apples fine and put in dish with three or four bananas sliced, only adding sugar and perhaps a little syrup, if you have got it. Cover crust over fruit; brush a little melted butter over top, strew white sugar on and bake twenty minutes or more, as required. Bird's Nest Pudding. Pare, quarter and core nice tart apples; butter a pie tin and slice the apples in it; make a batter of one cup cream (sour and not very rich), one teaspoonful soda, one egg, a little salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Pour this over the apples and bake; when done turn bottom side up and spread thickly with good sweet butter and sugar. To be eaten warm. Bird's Nest Pudding, No. 2. Take eight or ten nice apples, pare whole and core; place in a DESSERTS. 115 pudding dish; fill the cores with sugar and nutmeg. Make a cus- tard of five eggs to one quart of milk, sweeten to taste; pour this over the apples and bake half an hour. Cabinet Pudding. In making it use one pint of milk, six eggs, and a quantity of stale cake — stale bread could be used. The tin must be carefully- greased with butter, and around the inside place bits of fruit. For this, citron, cherries, currants, or any kind of dried fruit, could be used. Over this is put a layer of light colored cake, sponge cake perhaps, and the center is filled to near the top of the dish with broken up pieces. Upon this is poured the custard made of the eggs and milk thoroughly beaten up and flavored to suit the taste. The dish is then placed in a kettle of boiling water, the water coming up within about two-thirds of the way to the top. The pot is covered and boiled until done thoroughly. Cream Batter Pudding. Take one cup of sour cream and rub with one cup of flour until smooth; then pour in one cup of sweet milk, three eggs — the yolks and whites beaten separately, a little salt and two-thirds of a tea- spoonful of soda. Bake in a quick oven. To be eaten with cream and sugar. Cracker Pudding. Four ci*ackers pounded and sifted, small piece of butter, one and one-half pints milk, scalded and poured on the cracker and butter, four eggs, sugar to sweeten, nutmeg. Chocolate Pudding. One quart of sweet milk, three ounces grated chocolate. Scald the milk and chocolate together; when cool, add the yolks of five eggs and one cup sugar. Bake about twenty-five minutes; beat the whites from the top; brown in the oven; eat cold. Charlotte Pudding. Remove the crust from a loaf of bread, dip in milk, and spread 116 DESSERTS. the slices with butter. Pare and cut apples very thin. Lay the bread in a buttered dish, spread over the apples, sweeten and flavor with the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Bake till the apples are tender. Cottage Pudding. Warm two and one-half tablespoonf uls butter, stir in a cup of sugar and two eggs well beaten, two teaspoonfuls cream of tartar in one pint flour, one teaspoonful soda dissolved in one cup milk, flavor with nutmeg or lemon. Bake three-quarters of an hour and serve hot with sauce. Custard Bread Pudding. Two cups fine dry crumbs; one quart of milk; five eggs, beaten light; one tablespoonf ul corn starch; one teaspoonfnl of salt, and one-half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in milk; flavor to taste. Soak the crumbs in the milk, and heat in a custard kettle to a boil. Add the corn starch wet with cold milk, cook one minute, turn out and beat hard. When smooth and almost cold, whip in the yolks, the flavoring, lastly, the whites. Boil in a buttered mold an hour and a half. Eat hot with sweet sauce. It is excellent. Cocoanut Pudding. Take sufficient stale bread to make a pudding, the size you require; pour boiling water over it. After it is soaked well, take a fork and see that no lumps of bread remain; then add half a cup of grated cocoanut, make a custard of one quart of milk, and four eggs, flavor with nutmeg (of course you will sweeten it with white sugar) ; pour over and bake immediately. Cream Pudding. One quart of milk; one cup of hot boiled rice well cooked but not broken; one cup of sugar; one heaping tablespoonf ul of corn starch; five eggs; one-fourth teaspoonful of cinnamon and the same of grated lemon peel. Heat the milk, stir in the corn starch wet up with cold milk; then the beaten yolks and sugar. Add to these the heaping cup of boiled rice. Stir until it begins to thicken, add ASSERTS. 117 the seasoning, and pour into a buttered bake-disk. Bake until well ""set;" spread with a meringue of the whites and a little sugar, made very stiff. When this has colored lightly, take from the oven. Make on Saturday, and set on ice until Sunday. The coldeP it is the better. Crumb Pudding. Three egg yolks, one ounce of sugar, one ounce of bread crumbs, half a teaspoonf ul of cinnamon. Beat the egg-yolks, sugar, crumbs, and spice in a basin for five minutes. Add the three egg-whites beaten to a white snow (not too firm), bake in a buttered shallow tin or dish, and when quite cooled turn into a flat dish with the lower side upward, pour over it a glassful of wine boiled with a little sugar and spice, and serve while hot. Irish Rock. A sweet for dessert. Wash the salt from half a pound of butter, and beat into it a quarter of a pound of finely powdered sugar; blanch a pound of sweet almonds and an ounce of bitter; pound these in a mortar, reserving enough of the sweet almonds to spike for ornamenting the dish when sent to table; add the butter and sugar, with a quarter of a glass of brandy, and pound until smooth and white; when, after having become firm, it may be molded into a large egg-like shape, and stuck full of almond meats. It should be placed high on a glass dish, with a decoration of green sweetmeats and a sprig of myrtle, or garnish with any green fruits or sweetmeats. Jelly Rice. Mix four ounces of rice flour smoothly and gradually with a quart of cold milk; put them into a sauce pan, with a quarter of an ounce of clarified isinglass, the thin rind of half a lemon, four bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, and four ounces of sugar. Boil and stir briskly until quite thick; take out the lemon rind and pour the mixture into a damp mold. When it is firmly set, turn it on a glass dish, pour melted currant jelly, or any fruit syrup, round it, ^nd send a dish of cream to table with it. 118 DESSERTS. Jelly Custard. One quart of milk, six eggs — whites and yolks, one cup sugar, flavoring to taste, some red and yellow jelly, — raspberry is good for one, orange jelly for the other. Make a custard of the eggs, milk and sugar; boil gently until it thickens well; flavor when cold; till your custard glasses two-thirds full and heap up with the two kinds of jelly — the red upon some, the yellow upon others. Jelly Tartlets. Make the paste the same as for pies; line small patty pans, prick- ing the paste in the bottom to keep it from puffing too high; bake in a quick oven and fill with jelly or jam. Kiss Puddino. Beat the yolks of three eggs and half a cup of sugar till light, add one and a half (ablespoonfuls of corn starch, stir in one pint of boiling milk, stir on the stove till thick, pour in a pudding dish; beat the whites of the eggs with half a cup of sugar, spread over the toj) and brown. Lemon Pudding. One lemon grated, rind and pulp, one cup of sugar, one cup of water or sweet milk, four eggs, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour. Line a deep dish with pastry crusts, pour t he custard in, bake thirty minutes. Heat l he whites of three or four eggs to a stiff froth, sweeten, spread over the top of the pudding, and let brown slightly. Lemon Trifle. Two lemons — juice of both and grated rind of one, one cup sherry, one large cup of sugar, one pint cream well sweetened and whipped stiff, a little nutmeg. Strain the lemon juice before adding the wine and nutmeg. Strain again and whip gradually into the frothed cream. Serve in jelly glasses and send around cake with it. It should be eaten soon after it is made. DESSERTS. 119 Lemon Pudding. Two eggs, four tablcspoonfuls of flour, one-half cup sweet cream, one cup sweet milk, one tablespoonful butter, one cup sugar, grated rind and juice of one-half lemon, liake in a moderate over. Meringue Rice Pudding. Take a cup of rice to one pint of water; when the rice is boiled dry add one pint milk, a pieoe of butter size of an egg, and Ave eggs. Beat the yolks, and grated rind of a lemon, and mix with the rice. Butter a dish; pour in the mixture, and bake lightly. Beat the whites to a stiff froth; add a cup of sugar and the juice of a lemon. When the pudding is nearly done-, spread on this frosting, and bake in a slow oven till tlie top is light brown. Malagan Pudding. One-third cup rice, one cup sugar, two eggs, one pint milk, half a lemon and salt. Soak the rice over night. Beat the yolks of the eggs with one tablespoonful of the sugar, and grate in the lemon rind; add the rice and milk. Bake one hour. Take the whites of the eggs and beat to a stiff froth with the rest of the sugar, then add the lemon juice. Pour it over the pudding after it is baked, and brown it in the oven two or three minutes. To be eaten cold! Mitchell Pudding. One cup raisins, one cup chopped suet or butter, one cup molasses —some like one cup sugar with two spoonfuls molasses better—one cup sour milk, one teaspoonful soda, salt, flour to make a stiff batter. Steam three or four hours. Sauce. Maud's Pudding. Six eggs, ten tablcspoonfuls flour, butter the size of an egg, salt; mix to a light batter with sweet milk and baking powder in flour- it will rise high, bake in ten minutes in a quick oven— put into the oven just as dinner is being served so it will not fall before coming to the table. Serve with cream flavored with lemon or other extract to taste. 120 DESSERTS. Orange Pudding. Soak the crumbs of a French roll in milk, let it drain in a colander for half an hour, break it with a spoon in a basin, add two ounces of sugar, grated, one ounce of butter, warmed, the yolks of four eggs, the juice of four oranges, the grated rind of one, and finally the four egg-whites beaten (not too stiffly) on a plate with a knife, and bake in a buttered dish in a quick oven. The pudding will be equally good boiled in a mold for an hour and a half, and served with a sweet sauce. Christmas Plum Pudding. Shred finely three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, and add to it a pinch of salt, one pound and a half of bread crumbs, half a pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of raisins, three-quarters of a pound of currants, picked and dried, two ounces of candied lemon and citron together, and half a large nutmeg. Mix these thor- oughly, then add four eggs and milk enough to moisten it, but not too much or the pudding will be heavy. Tie in a pudding cloth, well floured, and boil for five or six hours; or, we think bet- ter when boiled in a mold* which should be well buttered before the mixture is put in. The mold should not be quite full and should be covered with one or two folds of paper, buttered and floured, and then with a floured pudding cloth. Plum Pudding. One pound of raisins, one of currants, one of suet chopped fine, and add three-quarters of a pound of stale bread crumbs, one- quarter pound of flour, one-quarter pound of brown sugar, rind of one lemon (chopped fine), one-half nutmeg grated, five eggs, one- half pound mixed candied peel, one-half pint of brandy; mix well DESSERTS. 121 the dry ingredients; beat the eggs with the brandy; pour this over the other things and thoroughly mix; to be boiled in a basin or mold for six hours at the time of making, and six hours when wanted for use. English Plum Pudding. One pound beef suet, three-quarters pound bread crumbs (not flour), three-quarters pound raisins, three-quarters pound currants, two ounces sweet almonds, with two or three bitter ones, eight eggs, well beaten, one quarter pound citron, a glass of brandy and one of sherry wine; grate in one-half of a nutmeg, and sweeten to your taste; mix all these ingredients well; boil six hours in a bowl or cloth. When turned out and ready for the table, pour over brandy, set on fire and carry to table surrounded by blue flame. This quantity will be dessert for six persons. Two or three times the quantity may be made, boiled five hours, and set away for use New Year's, Easter, or any intervening birthday. It will be good at the end of twelve months. When wanted to use, boil two hours longer. Plum Pudding. One coffeecup of molasses, one coffeecup of milk, one coffeecup of chopped suet, one coffeecup of chopped raisins, four coffeecups of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking pow- der, and one egg. Boil or steam three hours. Flavor with wine, or extract of orange, on sauce. Rich Plum Pudding. Beat up eight eggs, yolks and whites separately, and strain; mix them with a pint of thick cream; stir in half a pound of flour and half a pound of bread crumbs rubbed through the colander; when well mixed beat in one pound of beef suet, chopped very fine, one pound of currants, one pound of finely chopped raisins, one pound of powdei-ed sugar, two ounces of candied lemon, and two of citron, and a nutmeg grated; mix up all with half a pint of brandy or of wine; boil in a cloth for six or seven hours. Any of these Christ- 122 DESSERTS. mas puddings may be kept for a month after boiling, if the cloth in which they are made be replaced by a clean one, and the puddings be hung to the ceiling of a kitchen or any warm store-room; they will then be ready for use, and will require only one hour's boiling to heat them thoroughly. Baked Plum Pudding. One and a half cups of suet, chopped fine, one cup of raisins, stoned, one-half cup of milk, one cup of currants, one teaspoonful of saleratus, one-half cup of citron, chopped, one-half teaspoonful each of spice and salt, one-half cup sugar, one-half cup of molasses, two eggs, flour enough for a stiff batter. Bake two hours and serve with sauce. Poor Man's Pudding. Take one quart of milk, six eggs, six tablespoonfuls of flour, and a little salt. Bake half an hour. Use butter and sugar dip. Raisin Puffs. Two eggs, one-half cup butter, three teaspoonfuls baking powder, two tablespoonfuls sugar, two cups of flour, one of milk, one of raisins, chopped very fine. Steam one-half hour in small cups. Roly Poly Pudding. The pastry for this favorite pudding may be made in several different ways, according to the degree of richness required. For a superior pudding, mix a pound of flour with half a pound of very finely shred suet, freed from skin and fibre; add a good pinch of salt, an egg, and nearly half a pint of milk; roll it out to a long thin form, a quarter of an inch thick, and of a width to suit the size of the saucepan in which it is to be boiled; spread over it a layer of any kind of jam, berries, or fruit, and be careful that the sauce does not reach the edges of the pastry. Begin at one end and roll it up, to fasten the fruit inside, moisten the edges and press them securely together; dip a cloth in boiling water, flour it well, and tie the pudding tightly in it; put it into a saucepan of boiling DESSERTS. 123 water, at the bottom of which a plate has been laid to keep the pudding from burning, and boil quickly until done. If it is neces- sary to add more water, let it be boiling when put in, or the pud- ding may be steamed. Marmalade, sliced lemon or orange and sugar, chopped apples, or currants, may be used for filling. If boiled, it will require from an hour and a half to two hours to boil. Rice Pudding. One quart of milk, one cup of rice (boiled), three eggs, two tablespoonf uls of sugar, and one teaspoonful of extract of lemon, vanilla, or orange. Sago Pudding. One quart rich, sweet milk, four tablespoonfuls of sago, four eggs, one cup sugar, and flavoring; soak sago over night in water; then beat yolks of eggs, sugar, and sago together; add milk and flavoring; set a basin in the steamer, pour in the mixture and steam one hour; beat whites with one tablespoonf ul of sugar to a stiff froth; spread over pudding and brown in oven five minutes; stir while steaming or the sago will settle to the bottom. Suet Pudding. One small cup of suet cut fine, one cup of molasses, one cup chopped raisins, one cup sour milk, half a teaspoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, and one teaspoonful of soda. Stir thick with flour, and put in pudding bag, leaving room to rise, and boil three hours. Steamed Pudding. One cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, three eggs, one cup of milk, three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and three cups of flour; steam one hour. Snow Pudding. Pour one pint of boiling water on half a box of gelatine; add juice of one lemon and two cups sugar; when nearly cold, strain it, add the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, then beat all 124 DESSERTS. well together again, put it into a mold to shape it, and let it cool. Take the yolks of these eggs, one pint milk, and one teaspoonful corn starch, flavor with vanilla; cook this like any soft custard, put the hard part of the pudding into a dish, when you want to serve it, with the custard round it. Steamed Pudding. One cup sweet milk, two-thirds cup butter, one cup molasses, one cup chopped raisins, three cups flour, two-thirds teaspoonful soda. Put into a covered pail and steam three hours. Strawberry Short Cake. Rub into one quart of flour five ounces of lard, a pinch of salt, and three tablespoonfuls of baking powder; add gradually enough milk to make a soft dough; divide into four parts; roll one part out lightly; cover a straight-sided Vienna cake tin with it. Roll out another part and lay it on top of the first. Proceed in the same way with the other two parts, ush.g another baking tin. Bake quickly, and when done, while hot, lift the upper part from each pan, butter the inner surfaces, and place between the two crusts a layer, an inch thick, of fresh berries, mashed and sweetened. Serve immediately, with cream. A raspberry shortcake may be made with the same pastry. Custard to pour over Strawberry Shortcake. — One cup sugar, one tablespoonful corn starch, one egg, and one pint of milk. Flavor and cook as custard. STRATTREirRY SriORTCAKE, "No. 2. Mix a saltspoonful of salt with a pound of flour; chop in three tablespoonfuls of butter; dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in a little hot water, and add with a well-beaten egg to a large cup of sour cream or rich " lobbered " milk, and a tablespoonful of sugar. Put all together, handling as little as possible, and mix as soft as can be rolled. Roll lightly and quickly into two sheets, and bake in round tins, well greased, laying one sheet on the other. When done, DESSERTS. 125 separate, they will part where they were joined. Lay on the lower sheet a thick layer of strawberries, and dust with powdered sugar. If desired, strawberries can be placed on top and sugared as before. Serve with sweet cream. If the strawberries are just heated a little and crushed lightly with a spoon and then put between the crusts, it is much improved. Tapioca Pudding. Put a cup of tapioca and a teaspoonful of salt into a pint and a half of water and let it stand a couple of hours where it will be quite warm and not cook. Peel six tart apples, take out their cores and fill them with sugar in which is grated a little nutmeg and lemon peel, and put them in a pudding dish. Over these pour the tapioca, first mixing with it a tablespoonful of melted butter and a little cold milk. Bake one hour. Eat with sauce. Tapioca Pudding, No. 2. One cup tapioca, soaked in water an hour, one quart milk, three eggs, one cup sugar. Bake. To Cook Rice. To cook rice so that the grains will be whole and tender, wash it in cold water until the water looks clear, then cook it rapidly in boiling water for fifteen minutes, after which drain and place the covered saucepan on the back of the stove to steam until the grains crack open and are tender, which will be about fifteen minutes longer. Vegetable Pudding. Half a pound of carrots, half a pound of cold, mashed potatoes, the same of flour, suet, sugar, four ounces candied lemon peel, one- quarter of a pound of currants. Boil slowly for two hours. Whipped Syllabubs. One pint of cream, rich and sweet, one-half cup sugar, powdered, one glass of wine, vanilla, or other extract one large teaspoonful. 126 DESSERTS. .Sweeten the cream, and, when the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, stir in the wine carefully with the flavoring extract, and churn to a strong froth. Heap in glasses and eat with cake. Yankee Pudding. One cup of molasses, one cup of sour milk or buttermilk, one-half cup sugar, two teaspoonf uls of butter, two teaspoonfuls of saleratus, one teaspoonf ul of ginger, same of cinnamon, five of flour, one egg; bake in a shallow pan. Sauce. — One pint of milk or cream, half cup sugar, white of one ego-, beaten lightly, one teaspoonf ul of corn starch; flavor with nutmeg. Boil one minute. Pudding Sauce. A nice and easily made sauce for plum and all kinds of rich pud- dings may be made as follows: Beat the yolks of two eggs, and add four ounces of powdered sugar and half a pint of Madeira, and set it upon a slow fire and stir until it becomes smooth, and thickens. Serve in a sauce-tureen. Sweet Sauce. Sweeten a little good, melted butter, and flavor it with grated lemon rind, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon, strew a little of the grate over the top, and serve in a tureen. A little wine or brandy may be added at pleasure. This sauce is suitable for almost all ordinary boiled puddings. Fruit Sauce. Boil fruit (almost any kind may be used) with a little water until it is quite soft; rub it through a fine sieve; sweeten to taste; make it hot, and pour over boiled or steamed puddings. Fruit Pudding Sauce. One-half cup butter, two and one-half cups sugar, one dessert- spoonful corn starch wet in a little cold milk, one lemon— juice and half the grated peel, one glass of wine, one cup boiling water. DESSERTS. 127 Cream the butter and sugar well; pour the corn starch into the boiling water, and stir over a clear fire until it is well thickened; put all together in a bowl and beat five minutes before returning to the saucepan. Heat once, almost to the boiling point, add the wine, and serve. Arrowroot Sauce. Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water; add a third of a pint of water, a glass of wine, the juice of a lemon, and sugar and flavoring; stir the sauce over the fire till it boils. This sauce may be varied by omitting the wine, and using milk with the arrowroot. The juice of almost any fruit, too, may be boiled with the arrowroot. German Custard Sauce. Four yolks eggs, two ounces powdered sugar, grated rind of a lemon, a glass of sherry, and a little salt. Beat it sharply over a slow fire, until it assumes the appearance of a light, frothy custard. It is a good sauce. Pudding Sauce. Two eggs, two cups sugar, and one cup butter, one glass of wine ; beat all well together till creamy, and set over the fire a few minutes to scald through once, or set it in the tea kettle top to heat through. Puff Paste. Use for each pound of butter one pound of flour. First the butter should be worked or kneaded with the hand until all the buttermilk or water which may be in it is squeezed out. Wet the hand and the molding board with cold water. The butter must not be put in with the cracks in it, which you will see on breaking it, for these make the pastry full of flakes. By working with the hand a smooth even paste can be made without melting the butter. After working, wrap in a towel dusted with flour and put in a cool place. Mix one pound of flour, the yolk of one egg, one teaspoon- ful of butter, the juice of a lemon, and a saltspoonful of salt, with 128 DESSERTS. cold water enough- to make a paste as soft as bread dough. The lemon juice is for making the dough tender, and the egg is used simply to give a yellowish appearance to the crust. This is the French method of preparing paste. The pastry is worked to mix the gluten with the water to make, first, a slightly tough dough to hold the butter; the lemon juice afterward makes it tender. It should be kneaded about five minutes. You can always tell when it is kneaded enough, because it will then pull away from the hand and not stick. Roll it out about the size of a large dinner plate, lay in it the butter, fold the sides over, turn it over and roll into a strip three times as long as it is wide, square at the corners, and one-quarter of an inch thick. Fold one-third over the middle and the other third over that, making three layers; roll again into a Strip three times as long as it is wide. Fold a second time and roll out again in the same way. Fold again and wrap in a cloth, place it in a pan and set where it will get very cold. This is called giving the pastry " one turn." When it is made by fine confec- tioners it usually has six " turns." Pie Crust. Into one quart sifted Hour, thoroughly mix two heaping tea- spoonfuls baking powder, and sift again. Weigh out three-quar- ters of a pound good butter. Take half of it and chop into the Hour until it is very fine. Then add enough cold water (ice water is the best) to make a stiff dough. Roll out into a thin sheet and baste with one-third the remaining butter, then roll it up closely into a long roll, flatten and re-roll, then baste again. Repeat this operation Until the butter is gone. Then make out your crust. Do it all as quickly as possible. The quantity of butter may be increased or decreased to suit the taste, following the other direc- tions as stated. Good and Cheap Pie Crust. One quart sifted flour, one teaspoonful salt, two heaping tea- spoonfuls baking powder; mix thoroughly together while dry, and DESSERTS. 129 sift. Then add cold sweet milk enough to make a stiff dough, and roll out as usual. Use the " Pie Crust Glaze " on both the bottom and top crusts, as per following recipe. Some prefer less of the baking powder in the pie crust. A trial will determine what quan- tity best suits your taste. Pie Crust Glaze. To prevent the juice soaking through into the crust and making it soggy, wet the crust with a beaten egg just before you put in the pie mixture. If the top of the pie is wet with the egg it gives it a beautiful brown. Pie Crust for Four Small Pies. One and a half cups lard, one cup cold water, three and a half cups flour, mix lard and flour together; add water last. Tart Crust. One cup of lard, one-half teaspoonful of salt, the white of an egg t one-quarter teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one tablespoonful of sugar, one-eighth teaspoonful of saleratus, three tablespoonfuls of ice water; flour to roll; mix lard with one cup of flour; add salt, sugar, and cream of tartar; beat egg; mix with water and saleratus, all together; keep the dough cold; add flour to roll, one-quarter of an inch thick. The above makes eighteen tarts. Icing Pastry. "When nearly baked enough, take the pastry out of the oven and sift fine powdered sugar over it. Replace it in the oven, and hold over it a hot salamander or shovel till the sugar is melted. The above method is preferred for pastry to be eaten hot; for cold, beat up the whites of two eggs well, wash over the tops of the pies with a brush, and sift over this a good coating of sugar; cause it to adhere to the egg and pie crust; trundle over it a clean brush, dipped in water, till the sugar is all moistened. Bake again for about ten minutes. 9 130 DESSERTS. Puff Paste with Beef Suet. When you cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the fol- lowing is an excellent substitute: Skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening with a little oil, till it become as it were one piece, about the consistency of butter. Apricot Pie. Pare, stone, and half the apricots; place them in a pie dish, piling them high in the center, strew over them a little sifted sugar, and a few of the kernels, blanched and chopped fine. Cover them with a good, 'light crust and bake in a moderate oven. Apple Pie. Fill the pie crust with sour, juicy apples, pared and sliced thin, put on the upper crust and bake until the apples are soft, then remove the upper crust, adding sugar to taste, a small piece of butter, and a little grated nutmeg; stir this well through the apple and replace the crust. Apple Custard Pie. Peel sour apples and stew until soft and not much water left in them, then rub them through a colander, beat three eggs for each pie to be baked, and put in at the rate of one cup of butter and one of sugar for three pies. Line the pie tins with paste, put in the apples first, spread the beaten eggs, butter and sugar, flavored with nutmeg over it. Bake as pumpkin pie. Boiled Cider Pie. A boiled cider pie may be a novelty to some' one. Take four tablespoonfuls of boiled cider, three tablespoonfuls each of sugar and water, two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one egg; beat all together. Bake in a deep plate and with upper and under crusts. Baxana Pie. Slice raw bananas, add butter, sugar, allspice, and vinegar, or boiled cider or diluted jelly. Bake with two crusts. DESSERTS. 131 Cracker Pie. Soak ten crackers in one and one-half cups of boiling water, add ■one cup of molasses, one cup sugar, one cup butter, one cup raisins, two-thirds cup of vinegar, one-half nutmeg, one-half teaspoonful ground cloves, one teaspoonful cinnamon. Bake with two crusts. Chocolate Pie. One coffeecup milk, two tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, three- fourths cup sugar, yolks of three eggs. Heat chocolate and milk together; add the sugar and yolks together, beaten to cream. Flavor with vanilla. Bake with under crust. Spread meringue of the whites over the top. Cocoanut Pie. Open the eyes of a cocoanut with a pointed knife or gimlet, and pour out the milk into a cup; then break the shell and take out the meat and grate it fine. Take the same weight of sugar and the grated nut and stir together; beat four eggs, the whites and yolks separately, to a stiff foam; mix one cup of cream and the milk of the cocoanut with the sugar and nut, then add the eggs and a few drops of orange or lemon extract. Line deep pie-tins with a nice crust, fill them with the custard, and bake carefully one-half an hour. Jelly Custard. To one cup of any sort of jelly, add one egg and beat well together with three teaspoonfuls cream or milk. After mixing thoroughly, bake in a good crust. Custard Pie. Line a deep plate with pie crust and fill with a custard made of one pint of milk, three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of white sugar and a pinch of salt; flavor with nutmeg; bake until firm in the center; this you can tell by inserting the handle of a teaspoon; do not let the oven get hot enough to boil it. 132 DESSERTS. Cream Pie. Pour + pint of cream upon a cup and a half of powdered sugar;: let it s*and till the whites of three eggs have been beaten to a stiff froth; add this to the cream, and beat up thoroughly, grate a little nutmeg over the mixture and bake as custard pies. Cream Pie, No. 2. Three eggs, one cup sugar, one and one-fourth cups flour, juice and grated rind of lemon, half teasj)oonful soda dissolved, and one tablespoonful cold water, stirred in the last thing. Bake in round sheets. Custard for Cream Pie. A little more than half pint milk, half cup flour, one cup sugar, two eggs. Boil, when cold, spread on the cakes and lay them together. This receipt makes two pies. Delicate Pie. To stewed apples sufficient for four pies, one-half pound of butter, six eggs, beaten separately, one pound of sugar; flavor with lemon, the apples being quite cold before adding the eggs. Bake as a tart pie. Lemon Pie. One cup of hot water, one tablespoonful of corn starch, one cup of white sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, the juice and grated rind of one lemon. Cook for a few minutes, add one egg, and bake with a top and bottom crust. Fruit Pie. Line a soup plate with a rich paste, and spread with a layer of strawberry or raspberry preserves; over which sprinkle two table- spoonfuls of finely-chopped almonds (blanched of course), and one- half ounce of candied lemon peel cut into shreds. Then mix the following ingredients: One-half pound white sugar, one-quarter pound butter, melted, four yolks and two whites of eggs, and a few drops of almond essence. Beat well together and pour the mixture DESSERTS. 133 into the soup plate over the preserves, etc. Bake in a moderately warm oven. When cold, sprinkle or sift a little powdered sugar over the top. A little cream eaten with it is a great addition. Lemon Pie, No. 2. The juice and grated rind of one lemon, one cup of white sugar, the yolks of two eggs, three tahlespoonfuls of sifted flour, and suf- ficient milk to fill a plate. Make with undercrust, but not the uppercrust. Bake till nearly done and then add a frosting made of the beaten whites of two eggs, and two tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar, and set back in the oven and brown slightly. Mince Meat. One pint of chopped meat, two pints of chopped apples, one pint each of molasses and vinegar, two pints of sugar, one tablespoonf ul each of cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, a cup of chopped suet or butter, a little salt, and a little brandy if liked. Add raisins when the pies are baked. Mince Meat. Two pounds of lean beef boiled; when cold chop fine; one pound of suet minced to a powder, five pounds of juicy apples, pared and chopped, two pounds of raisins, seeded, two pounds of sultanas or seedless raisins, two pounds of currants, one-half pound of citron, chopped, I luce fcablespoonfuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of mace, one tablespoonful of allspice, one tablespoonful of fine salt, one grated nutmeg, three pounds of brown sugar, one-half gallon of sweet cider. Mince meat made by this recipe will keep till spring. Minck "Pirc. It is supposed you have your me'at ready for the paste. Make the paste by rubbing into a quart of your best Hour one-third of a pound of sweet lard; chop it in with a broad knife, if you have time; wet up with ice water; roll out very thin and cover with dabs of butter, also of the best ; fold into a tight roll; flatten with a few strokes of the rolling-pin, and roll out into a sheet as thin as 134 DESSERTS. the first; Dasce again with the butter; roll up and out into a third sheet hardly thicker than drawing paper; a third time dot with butter and fold up closely. Having used as much butter for this purpose as you have lard, set aside your roll for an hour on ice, or in a very cold place; then roll out, line your pie plates with the paste, fill with mince meat, put strips across them in squares or triangles and bake in a steady and not dull heat. Mince Pie, No. 2. Boil a piece of beef weighing six pounds, and a beef's tongue weighing six pounds, six hours. Then skin the tongue, chop it and the beef fine; add five pounds beef suet chopped fine, five pounds raisins stoned, three pounds dried currants, one and one-half pound citron, four pounds brown sugar, one pint good molasses, one quart brandy, one quart wine, or, omit these, and add in their place boiled cider; half a cup each of salt, cinnamon, allspice and cloves, three nutmegs and a tablespoonf ul of mace. Mix all well together, and let it stand over night. Mix apples stewed when you make the pies, as the meat keeps better without apple. Keep it in a stone jar. You should have about a third as much apple as you have of the mince meat for a batch of pies. Mince Meat Without Meat. Take nine lemons, squeeze out the juice, boil the rinds and pulp (remove seed) in three or four waters till bitterness is out and rinds quite tender; beat them to a pulp; two and one-half pounds beef suet after it is picked from the skins, two pounds currants after they are picked and washed, one and one-half pounds raisins after they are stoned, two ounces almonds, two pounds sugar, one- half pound citron, a glass of brandy, and one of any kind of sweet wine; mix all these ingredients well together with the juice from the lemons, and as many sweetmeats as you please. Marlborough Pie. Grate six apples, one cup sugar, three tablespoonfuls melted DESSERTS. 135 butter, four eggs, juice and grated rind of a lemon, two tablespoon- fuls brandy or wine, if you choose; if not, omit it. Bake in an under, but without top crust. Orange Pie. Take four good-sized oranges, peel, seed, and cut in very small pieces. Add a cup of sugar, and let stand. Into a quart of nearly boiling milk stir two tablespoonfuls of corn starch mixed with a little water, and the yolks of three eggs. When this is done, let it cool, then mix with the oranges. Put it in simply a lower crust. Make a frosting of the whites of the eggs and one-half cup sugar. Spread it over top of pies, and place for a few seconds in the oven to brown. Cream Peach Pie. Pare ripe peaches and remove the stones; have your pie dishes ready lined with a good paste, fill with the peaches; stew these with sugar; lay the upper crust on lightly, slightly buttering the lower at the point of contact. When the pie is done, lift the cover and pour in a cre^m made thus: One cup (small) of rich milk, heated; whites of two eggs, whipped and stirred into the milk; one tablespoonf ul of sugar; one-half teaspoonful of corn starch wet up in milk. Boil three minutes. The cream must be cold when it goes into the hot pie. Replace the' crust, and set by to cool. Eat fresh. Pine-Apple Pie. One granted pine-apple, its weight in sugar, half its weight in butter, five eggs, the whites beaten to a stiff froth, one cup of cream; cream the butter and beat it with the sugar and yolks until very light; add the cream, the pine-apple and the whites of the eggs. Bake with an under crust. To be eaten cold. Pumpkin Pie. Pare the pumpkin and take out the seeds without scraping the inside; stew and strain through a sieve. To every quart of milk add five eggs, and stir the pumpkin into the milk and eggs until 136 DESSERTS. the proper consistency; sweeten with sugar or the l>est syrup; molasses makes it too strong. Add some salt,, powdered cinnamon, powdered ginger and the grated peel of lemon. Bake in either deep or shallow dishes in a hot oven. Potato Pie. One pound mashed potato, rubbed through a colander; one-fonrth pound Of Imtter, creamed with the SUgar; six eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately; one lemon, squeezed into the potato while hot; one teaspoon!' ul of nutmeg and the same of mace; two cups of white SUgar. Cream the butter and sugar; add the yolks, the spice, and beat in the potato gradually until it, is very light. At last, whip in the whites. Bake in open shells of paste. Eat cold. Sweet Potato Pie. A plate deeper than the common pie plate is necessary. Pake medium-sized potatoes, not quite done. Yams are best. Line the plate with good paste; slice the potatoes; place a layer upon the bottom of the plate; over this sprinkle thickly a layer of good brOWll sugar; over this place thin slices of butter and sprinkle with flour, seasoning with spices to the taste. A heaped t ablespoonful of butter and a heaped teaspoonful of Hour will be sufficient for one pie. Put on another layer of potatoes, piled a little in the middle. Mix together equal quantities lemon juice and water, or vinegar and water and pour in enough to half till the pie; sprinkle over the potato a little Hour and pla< n the upper crust, pinching the edges carefully together. Cut a slit in the center and bake slowly an hour. Sweet Potato Pie, No. 2. Boil potatoes until tender, pare and put through a colander or sieve. To one pint of potato add one pint of milk, three eggs, and from one to two cups sugar, to suit taste; flavor with ginger or lemon. DESSERTS. L87 Apple ob Peace Mickinouk I'ik. Slew the apples or peaches and sweeten to taste, Mash smooth and Beason with Qutmeg. Fill the crusts and bake until just done. Put on no top onsts, Take the whites of three eggs for each pie and whip to a stiff froth, and sweeten with three tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. Flavor with rose water or vanilla. Beat until it will stand alone, then .spread it on the pie one-half to one inch thiok, and set back into the oven until the meringue is well "set." Bat cold. Peach Pie. Peel, stone unci .slice the peaches; line a pie plate with crust and lay in your fruit,, sprinkling sugar liberally over them in proportion to their sweetness. Allow three peach kernels chopped fine to each pie; pour in a very little water and bake with an upper crust, or wit.li cross-bars <>r paste across the top. Quince I'm:. Pare, slice, ami stew six ar an instant's inattention, Owing to these oircum- stanoes, in addition to the fact that in order to do good work it is necessary to roast, a considerable quantity at a time, none of the small hand machines produoe uniformly good results, and they are onlv to lie tolerated where distanoe makes it, impossible Tor the niail merchants to obtain regular and (when not in air-tight pack- ages) frequent supplies of the roasted artiole. How much it, should be roasted is also an important part, of the question, For making "black" or " French" ooffee it, should he roasted hig-hcr than usual (the French, also, often add a little chicory), and some sections are accustomed to a higher roast than others, hut, as a whole the ous tomary New York standard will best suit the average American palate. Retail dealers should buy their roasted ooffee of a reliable house that has a reputation to sustain, and that, cannot he induced to out down prioes below what, they can afford to furnish an artiole that will do them credit. Do not, buy much at, a time (unless in air-tight packages), a week or ten day's supply is enough, and if you are situated no you can buy it, twice a week, so much the better, Keep it in a dry place and, if possible, in a tin can which shuts tightly, never in a pine box Or bin, lor the smell of the wood is quickly absorbed by the coffee. Get your customers in the habit of buying it, in the berry, or, if they have no mill at home and want you to grind it, Tor them (every grocer should have a mill), grind it, pretty line, so that when used the strength is readily extracted, but do not, sell I hem much at, a lime, as it is a necessity to have il, freshly ground. "Consumers should adopt the ahove suggestions to retail dealers — buy of a reliable dealer who will not represent an inferior article as '.lava;' buy in small quantities and buy often; keep it dry in a tightly closed tin can or in a glaSl or earthen jar. I!a»'c a small 142 DRINKS. hand coffee mill and grind only when ready to use it, and if, during rainy weather, the kernels become damp and tough warm them up in a clean pot or skillet but do not scorch them; this drives off the moisture, restores the flavor and makes it grind better. The grinding is an important feature; if ground too coarse you lose much of the strength and aroma of the coffee; if too fine it is hard to make it clear, but of the two the latter is the least objectionable; both the strength and the flavor of the coffee, however, is a neces- sity, and if a little of the finely powdered coffee flows out with the liquid extract it is clean and will hurt nobody. It is better, how- ever, to grind it just right, which is that the largest pieces will be no larger than pin heads." We now come to the important part of making coffee. For this there are many receipts and formulas, including a large number of new and so-called improved coffee-pots, but we have never seen any of the new methods which, in the long run, gave as satisfactory results as the following old-fashioned receipt: Grind moderately fine a large cup of coffee; break into it one egg with shell; mix well, adding just enough cold water to thor- oughly wet the grounds; upon this pour one pint boiling water; let it boil slowly for ten to fifteen minutes, and then stand three minutes to settle; pour through a fine wire sieve into coffee-pot, which should be first rinsed with hot water; this will make enough for four persons. Coffee should be served as soon as made. At table, first rinse the cup with hot water, put in the sugar, then fill half full of hot milk, add your coffee, and you have a delicious beverage that will be a revelation to many poor mortals who have an indistinct remembrance of and an intense longing for an ideal cup of coffee. If you have cream so much the better; and in that case boiling water can be added either in the pot or cup to make up for the space occupied by milk, as above; or condensed milk will be found a good substitute for cream. General -Remarks. — We have thus briefly indicated the points necessary to be observed in obtaining uniformly good coffee, DRINKS. 143 whether made from Rio, or Java, and other mild flavored coffees. In the Eastern and Middle States, Mocha, Java, Maracaibo, Ceylon, etc., are most highly esteemed and generally used; but at the west and south more Rio coffee is consumed. The coffee par excellence, however, is a mixture of Mocha and Java together, and thus thoroughly blended. Mocha alone is too rough and acrid, but, blended as above, it is certainly delicious. In all varieties, how- ever, there is a considerable range as to quality and flavor, and, as before stated, the best guide for the consumer is to buy of a reli- able dealer and throw upon his shoulders the responsibility of fur- nishing a satisfactory article. Hotels and restaurants that desire good coffee, should make in srnaN. quantities and more frequently. It is impossible for coffee to be good when it is kept simmering for hours after it is made. Coffee Substitutes. French cooks, who are celebrated for making good coffee, mix three or four different kinds, and recommend as a good proportion, to add to one pound of Java about four ounces of Mocha and four ounces of one or two other kinds. It is said that from three parts of Rio, with two parts of Old Government Java, a coffee can be made quite as good, if not superior, to that made of Java alone. Wheat coffee, made of a mixture of eight quarts of wheat to one pound of real coffee, is said to afford a beverage quite as agreeable as the unadulterated Rio, besides being much more wholesome. It is probably known to many that a very large per cent, of the ground coffee sold at the stores is common field pease, roasted and ground with genuine coffee. There are hundreds of thousands of bushels of peas annually used for that purpose. Those who are in the habit of purchasing ground coffee can do better to buy their own pease, burn and grind them, and mix to suit themselves. Novel Mode of Making Coffee. Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which set upon jhe fire, stirring the powder around with a spoon until quite hot, 144 DRINKS. when pour over a pint of boiling water; cover over closely for five minutes, when strain it through a cloth, rinse out the stewpan, pour the coffee, which will be quite clear, back into it, place it on the fire, and when near boiling, serve with hot milk. Tea. We find the following eminently sensible lines in Household Hints : One of the most surprising things one constantly meets is to find that the people who have the same duties to perform, day after day, or year after year, do not improve in their method or even once blunder into the right way of doing them. Nothing is more easily made than good tea, and yet how seldom, away from home, does one enjoy delicately fragrant tea which Hawthorne calls "an angel's gift " and which Miss Mitford said she could be awake all night drinking. The first thing needed is a clean tea-pot; it is useless to try to make good tea in a rusty pot, or one in which the leaves have been allowed to remain all night. The water should be boiling but the tea itself should never boil. I wish these words could be painted on the wall of every hotel and restaurant kitchen in the United- States. After the boiling water has been poured over the tea set the tea-pot on an extra griddle on the back of the stove. All that is good in the tea will be gradually extracted from it; then when brought to the table one may well echo De Quin- cey's wish for an " eternal tea-pot," though not inclined to follow his example of drinking it from eight o'clock in the evening until four o'clock in the morning. The most satisfactory steeper I ever used is an old-fashioned brown earthern tea-pot. This may be kept perfectly clean with almost no trouble. Whatever may be said of the hurtfulness of tea, when immoderately used, a cup of the afternoon tea so fre- quently mentioned in novels and essays is an unpurchasable luxury. Hamerton says in "The Intellectual Life:" " If tea is a safe stimu- lant it is certainly an agreeable one; there seems to be no valid reason why brain workers should refuse themselves this solace." DRINKS. 145 Iced Tea. The tea should be made in the morning, very strong, and not allowed to steep long. Keep in the ice-box till the meal is ready and then put in a small quantity of cracked ice. Very few under- stand the art of making iced tea, buc pour the scalding hot tea on a goblet of ice lumped in, and as the ice melts the tea is weak, insipid, and a libel on its name. Iced coffee is very nice made in the same way. Too much ice is detrimental to health and often causes gastric fever; so beware of it when in a heated state, or do not drink of it in large quantities. A Good Summer Drink. Two pounds Catawba grapes, three tablespoonfuls loaf sugar, one cup of cold water. Squeeze the grapes hard in a coarse cloth, when yon have picked them from the stems. Wring out every drop of juice; add the sugar, and when it is dissolved, the water, surround with ice until very cold; put a lump of ice into a pitcher, pour out the mixture upon it, and drink at once. You can add more sugar if you like, or if the grapes are not quite ripe. Cottage Beer. Take a peck of good wheat bran and put it into ten gallons of water with three handfuls of good hops, and boil the whole together until the bran and hops sink to the bottom. Then strain it through a hair sieve or a thin cloth into a cooler, and when it is about lukewarm add two quarts of molasses. As soon as the molasses is melted, pour the whole into a ten-gallon cask, with two tablespoonfuls of yeast. When the fermentation has subsided, bung up the cask, and in four days it will be fit to use. Ginger Beer. Boil six ounces of bruised ginger in three quarts of water, for half an hour; then add five pounds of loaf sugar, a gill of lemon juice, quarter pound of honey, and seventeen quarts more of water, 146 DRINKS. and strain it through a cloth. When it is cold put in the whole of an egg, and two drachms of essence of lemon. After standing three or four days, it may be bottled. Spruce Beer. Take four ounces of hops, boil half an hour in one gallon of water; strain it; add sixteen gallons of warm water, two gallons of molasses, eight ounces of essence of spruce dissolved in one quart of water; put it in a clean cask, shake it well together, add half pint of yeast, let it stand and work one week; if •warm weather, less time will do. When drawn off, add one teaspoonf ul of molasses to each bottle. Iced Buttermilk. There is no healthier drink than buttermilk, but it must be the creamy, rich buttermilk to be good. It should stand on the ice to cool, though if very rich and thick a little ice in it is an improve- ment. Claret Cup. Put into a bowl three bottles of soda water, and one bottle of claret. Pare a lemon very thin and grate a nutmeg; add to these, in a jug, one pound of loaf sugar, and pour over them one pint of boiling water; when cold, strain and mix with the wine and soda water; a little lemon juice may be added. Fruit Cup. Pare the yellow rind very thinly from twelve lemons; squeeze the juice over it in an earthern bowl, and let it stand over night if possible. Pare and slice thinly a very ripe pine-apple, and let it lay over night in half a pound of powdered sugar. Crush one quart of berries, and let them lay over night in half a pound of powdered sugar. If all these ingredient cannot be prepared the day before they are used, they must be done very early in the morning, because the juices of the fruit need to be incorporated witli the sugar at least twelve hours before the beverage is used. After all DRINKS. 147 the ingredients have been properly prepared, as above, strain off the juice, carefully pressing all of it out of the fruit; mix it with two pounds of powdered sugar :ui<1 three quarts of ice water, and stir it until all the sugar is dissolved. Then strain it again through a muslin or bolting-cloth sieve, and put it on the ice or in a very cool place until it is wanted for use. Cream of Tartar Drink. Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, the grated rind of a lemon, half a cup of loaf sugar, and one pint of boiling water. This is a good summer drink for invalids, and is cleansing to the blood. Jelly Drinks. A little jelly or fruit syrup dissolved in a goblet of water with a little sugar is a refreshing drink. Lime juice squeezed into lemon- ade gives it a tart but pleasing flavor. A little orange juice is also an improvement, in nearly all summer drinks. Simon Pure Lemonade. Take thin-skinned lemons; roll them on the table until very soft; slice very thin with a sharp knife into a large pitcher, averaging one lemon to a person, thus allowing them two glasses apiece. Put in the pitcher with the sliced lemon a cup of white sugar to five lemons (or more if yon want it sweeter) and pound all well together with a potato masher; put in a lump of ice; let it stand a few minutes and fill the pitcher with ice water. This makes lemonade that is lemonade, and the peel in the pitcher is delicious. Jelly Lemonade. Pare the yellow rind thinly from two oranges and six lemons and steep it four hours in a quart of hot water. Boil a pound and a half of loaf sugar in three pints of water, skimming it until it is clear. Pour these two mixtures together. Add to them the juice of six oranges and twelve lemons, mix and strain through a j f> lly- bag until clear; keep cool until wanted for use. If the beverage is 148 DRINKS. to be kept several days, it should be put into clean glass bottles and corked tightly. If for a small party, half of the quantity will be sufficient. Ginger Lemonade. Take a half cup of vinegar, one cup of sugar, two teaspoonf uls ginger; stir well together, put in a quart pitcher and fill with ice water. If one wants it sweeter or sourer than these quantities will make it, more of the needed ingredients may be put in. It is a cooling drink and almost as good as lemonade, some preferring it. Berry Sherbet. Crush one pound of berries, add them to one quart of water, one lemon sliced, and one teaspoonful of orange flavor, if you have it. Let these ingredients stand in an earthen bowl for three hours; then strain, squeezing all the juice out of the fruit. Dissolve one pound of powdered sugar in it, strain again, and put on the ice until ready to serve. Excellent Mead. Three pounds brown sugar, one pint of molasses, one-fourth pound tartaric acid; mix, pour over them two quarts boiling water, stir till dissolved. When cold, add half ounce essence sassafras and bottle. "When you wish to drink it, put three tablespoonfuls of it in a tumbler, fill half full with ice water, add a little more than one-fourth teaspoonful soda. An excellent summer beverage. CHAPTER IX. EGGS AND OMELETTES. ei GGS of various kinds are largely used as food for man, and it is scarcely possible to exaggerate their value in this capacity, so simple and convenient are they in their form and so mani- fold may be their transformations. They are exceedingly delicious, highly nutritious and easy of digestion, and when the shell is included they may be said to contain in themselves all that is required for the construction of the body. It has been claimed for them that they may be served in about six hundred ways, although it is generally found that the more simply they are prepared the more they are approved. Although other eggs besides birds' eggs are eaten it is generally agreed that the eggs of the common fowl and of the plover possess the sweetest and richest flavor. The eggs of ducks and geese are frequently used in cookery, but they are of too coarse a nature to be eaten alone. The eggs of the turkey and of the peahen are highly esteemed for some purposes- The weight of an ordinary new-laid hen's egg is from one and a half to two and a half ounces avoirdupois, and the quantity of solid matter contained in it amounts to two hundred grains. In one hundred parts about ten parts consist of shell, sixty of white and thirty of yolk. The white of the egg contains more water than the yolk. It contains no fatty matter but consists chiefly of albumen in a dissolved state. All the fatty matter of the egg is accumulated in the yolk, which contains relatively a smaller proportion of nitro- genous matter and a larger proportion of solid matter than the white. Therefore, in an alimentary point of view the white and 149 150 EGGS AND OMELETTES. the yolk differ considerably from each other, the former being, mainly a simple solution of albumen, the latter being a solution of a modified form of albumen together with a quantity of fat. Raw and lightly boiled eggs are easy of digestion: It is said that raw eggs are more easily digested than cooked ones; but this may be doubted if the egg is not over-cooked. A hard-boiled egg presents a decided resistance to gastric solution, and has constipa- tory action on the bowels. Breaded Eggs. Boil hard and cut in round, thick slices; pepper and salt and dip each in beaten raw egg, then in fine bread crumbs or powdered cracker crumbs and fry in butter, hissing hot. Drain off every drop of grease and serve hot. Egg a la Mode. Remove the skin from a dozen tomatoes, medium size, cut theni up in a saucepan, add a little butter, pepper and salt; when suffi- ciently boiled, beat up five or six eggs, and just before you serve, turn them into the saucepan with the tomato, and stir one way for two minutes, allowing them time to be well done. How to Bake Eggs. Butter a clean, smooth saucepan, break as many eggs as will be needed into a saucer, one by one. If found good, slip it into the dish. No broken yolk allowed, nor must they crowd so as to risk breaking the yolk after being put in. Put a small piece of butter on each, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Set into a well-heated oven, and bake till the whites are set. If the oven is rightly heated, it will take but a few minutes, and is far more delicate than fried eggs. Egg Baskets. Boil quite hard as many eggs as will be needed. Put into cold water till cold, then cut neatly into halves with a thin, sharp knife; remove the yolk and rub to a paste with some melted butter,. EGGS AND OMELETTES. 151 adding pepper and salt. Cover up this paste and set aside till the filling is ready. Take cold roast duck, chicken, or turkey which may be on hand, chop fine and pound smooth, and while pounding mix in the paste prepared from the yolks. As you pound moisten with melted butter and some gravy which may have been left over from the fowls; set this paste when done over hot water till well heated. Cut off a small slice from the end of the empty halves of •the whites so they will stand firm, then fill them with this paste; place them close together on a flat, round dish, and pour over the rest of the gravy, if any remains, or make a little fresh. A few spoonfuls of cream or rich milk improves this dressing. To Pickle Eggs. Sixteen eggs, one quart of vinegar, one-half ounce of black pepper, one-half ounce Jamaica pepper, one-half ounce of ginger; boil the eggs twelve minutes; dip in cold water and take off the shell; put the vinegar with the pepper and ginger into a stew pan and simmer ten minutes; place the eggs in a jar, pour over the seasoned vinegar boiling hot, and when cold tie them down with a bladder to exclude the air; ready for use in a month. Scrambled Eggs. Heat the spider and put in a little butter; have the eggs broken into a dish, salt and pepper them; add a small piece of butter; beat up *just enough to break the eggs, then pour into the buttered spider; scrape them up from the bottom with a thin knife to prevent their cooking fast. Do not cook too dry. To Poach Eggs. Have the water well salted, and do not let it boil hard. Break the eggs separately into a saucer, and slip gently into the water; when nicely done, remove with a skimmer, trim neatly, and lay each egg upon a small thin square of buttered toast, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Some persons prefer them poached, rather than fried, with ham; in which case substitute the ham for toast. 152 EGGS AND OMELETTES. Stuffed Eggs. Boil the eggs hard, remove the shells, and then cut in two either waVj as preferred. Remove the yolks, and mix with them pepper, salt, and a little dry mustard — some like cold chicken, ham, or tongue chopped very fine — and then stuff the cavities, smooth them, and put the halves together again. For picnics they can simply be wrapped in tissue paper to keep them together. If for home use, they can be egged, and bread-crumbed, and browned in boiling lard; drain and garnish with parsley. Omelette. First have fresh eggs, not omelette eggs (in restaurants all eggs that will not in any way do to boil, are put aside for omelettes), break the eggs in a bowl and to every egg add a tablespoonful of milk and whip the whole as thoroughly as you would for sponge cake. The omelette pan must be so hot that butter will melt almost brown in it but not quite. Then run the whipped egg and milk into the pan and put it directly over the fire. Take a thin-bladed knife and run it carefully under the bottom of the omelette so as to let that which is cooked get above. If the fire is right the whole mass will swell and puff and cook in just about one minute. Watch carefully that it does not burn. It is not necessary to wait till the whole mass is solid as its own heat will cook it after it has left the pan, but begin at one side and carefully roll the edge over and over till it is all rolled up, then let it stand a moment to brown. Turn Dut on a hot plate and serve immediately. Omelette, No. 2. Six eggs, one tablespoonful of flour, one cup of milk, a pinch of salt; beat the whites and yolks separately: mix the flour, milk and salt, add the yolks, then add beaten whites. Have a buttered spider very hot; put in. Bake in a quick oven five minutes. EGGS AND OMELETTES. lo3 Apple Omelette. Eight large apples, four eggs, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon- ful of butter, nutmeg or cinnamon to taste. Stew the apples and mash fine; add butter and sugar; when cold, add the eggs, well beaten. Bake until brown, and eat while warm. , Baked Omelette. Set one-half pint of milk on the fire and stir in one-half cup of flour mixed with a little cold milk and salt; when scalding hot, beat the yolks of six eggs and add them; stir in whites and set imme- diately in the oven. Bake twenty minutes and serve as soon as done. Oyster Omelette. Allow for every six large oysters or twelve small ones, one egg; remove the hard part and mince the rest very fine; take the yolks of eight eggs and whites of four, beat till very light; then mix in the oysters, season and beat all up thoroughly; put into a skillet a gill of butter, let it melt; when the butter boils, skim it and turn in the omelette; stir until it stiffens, fry light brown; when the under side is brown, turn on to a hot platter. If wanted the upper side brown, hold a red-hot shovel over it. Omelette Souffle. Stir five tablespoonfuls of sifted flour into three pints of milk, strain through a sieve; add the yolks of eight eggs, beaten very light, and, just as it goes into the oven, the whites beaten stiff. Bake quickly. French Omelette. One quart of milk, one pint of bread crumbs, five eggs, one table- spoonful of flour, one onion chopped fine, chopped parsley, season with pepper and salt. Have butter melted in a spider; when the omelette is brown, turn it over. Double when served. L54 EGGS A^D OMELETTES. Omelette with Ham. Make a plain omelette, and just before turning one-half over the other, sprinkle over it some finely chopped ham. Garmsh Avith small slices of ham. Jelly or marmalade may be added in the same manner. Eggs a la Bonue Femme. Take six large eggs, boil them ten minutes; when cool, remove the shells carefully; divide them equally in halves, take out the yolks, and cut off from each the pointed tip of the white, that they may stand flatly. Make tiny dice of some cold chicken, ham, boiled beet root, and the eggs. Fill the hollows with these up to the brim, and pile the dice high in the center — two of ham and chicken, two of boiled beetroot, and two with the hard yolks. Arrange some neatly cut lettuce on a dish and place the eggs amongst it. CHAPTER X. FRESH FRUITS. Pine Apples. ^LICE on a slaw cutter, or very thin with a knife; mix with finely-powdered sugar. Set on ice till ready to serve. A Nice Way to Prepare Apples. Pare a dozen tart apples, take out the core, place sugar, with a small lump of butter, in the center of each apple, put them in a pan with half a pint of water, bake until tender, basting occasionally with the syrup while baking; when done, serve with cream. To Stew Apples. One pound sugar boiled in one quart of spring water and skimmed, one pound of the largest pippins, cut in quarters and the cores taken out. Have the syrup boiling; when you put them in let them stew till they are quite tender, then add the juice of two large lemons, and the peel cut small; give them a few more boils after the lemons are put in. If you want them to keep all the year, the syrup must be well boiled after the apples are taken out. As you peel the apples fling them into cold water. Bananas and Cream. Peel, slice, and heap up in a glass dessert-dish, and serve raw, with fine sugar and cream. To Crystallize Fruit. Pick out the finest of any kind of fruit — leave in the stones; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth ; lay the fruit in the 155 156 FRESH FRUITS. beaten egg, with the stems upward; drain them and beat the part that drips off again ; select them out, one by one, and dip them into •<■ cup of finely-powdered sugar; cover a pan with a sheet of fine paper, place the fruit on it, and set it in a cool oven; when the icing on the fruit becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and set them, in a cold place. To Keep Grapes. Select nice fresh clusters, and cut the end of the stem smooth and dip it into melted sealing wax; then put it in cotton batting; pack them away in wooden boxes; keep them in a dry cool place. In this way they will keep fresh all winter. Another way — Take full bunches, ripe and perfect; seal the end that is cut from the vine so that no air can get in, or the juice of the stem run out, and let them stand one day after sealed, so as to be perfectly sure they are sealed (if not they will shrivel up) ; then pack in boxes of dry "sawdust and keep in a cool place; they will keep nicely all winter without losing their flavor; in packing, do not crowd the bunches; sprinkle the sawdust over the bottom of the box, then lay the grapes carefully, a bunch at a time, all over the box, then sawdust and grapes alternately until the box is full. Melons. Melons are much nicer if kept on ice until time for serving. Cut off a slice at each end of the water-melon, then cut through the center; stand on end on platter. Cantaloupe melons should have the seeds removed before sending to the table. Eat with a spoon- ful of strained honey in each half of melon. Oranges. Slice, mix with powdered sugar, and strew grated cocoa-nut over the top. Are also nice served whole, the skins quartered and turned down. Form in a pyramid with bananas and white grapes. Candied Cherries. Two quarts large, ripe, red cherries, stoned carefully; two pounds loaf sugar, one cup water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water FRESH FRUITS. 157 and boil until it is thick enough to " pull," as for candy. Remove to the side of the range, and stir until it shows signs of granula- tion. It is well to stir frequently while it is cooking, to secure this end. When there are grains or crystals on the spoon, drop in the cherries, a few at a time. Let each supply Me in the boiling syrup two minutes, when remove to a sieve set over a dish. Shake gently but long, then turn the cherries out upon a cool, broad dish, and dry in a sunny window. Stewed Peaks. Peel pears. Place them in a little water, with sugar, cloves, cinnamon and lemon peel. Stew gently, and add one glass of cider. Dish up cold. Glace Cherries. Make as above, but do not let the syrup granulate. It should not be stirred at all, but when it " ropes " pour it over the cherries, which should be spread out upon a large flat dish. When the syrup is almost cold, take these out, one by one, with a teaspoon, and spread upon a dish to dry in the open air. If nicely managed - these are neany :.s good as those put up by professional confec- tioners. Keep in a dry, cool place. Candied Lemon-Peel. Twelve fresh, thick-skinned lemons, four pounds loaf sugar, a little powdered alum, three cups clear water. Cut the peel from the lemons in long, thin strips, and lay in strong salt and water all night. Wash them in three waters next morning, and boil them until tender in soft water. They should be almost translucent, but not so soft as to break. Dissolve a little alum — about half a tea- spoonful, when powdered — in enough cold water to cover the peel, and let it lie in it for two hours. By this time the syrup should be ready. Stir the sugar into three cups of water, add the strained juice of three lemons and boil it until it " ropes " from the end of the spoon. Put the lemon-peels into this, simmer gently half an 158 FRESH FRUITS. hour; eake them out and spread upon a sieve. Shake, not hard, but often, tossing up the peels now and then, until they are almost dry. Sift granulated sugar over them and lay out upon a table spread with a clean cloth. Admit the air freely, and, when per- fectly dry, pack in a glass jar. CHAPTER XI. CANNING FRUIT. ^ OR the benefit of those thrifty housewives who have fruit of their own which they wish to save, or who think that any preparation of food made outside of the home kitchen, and branded " factory make," should be considered " common and unclean," we append a few recipes which will be found in every way satisfactory. The canning industry has grown within the few years of ita existence to such enormous dimensions and includes so great a variety of articles, and competition is so sharp among the different firms who make it a specialty, that in point of expense it is cheaper to buy on the market than to purchase the fruit and be to the trouble and further expense of canning it at home. There is, probably, no one thing which has done more to drive stern winter beyond the threshold than this simple but late-discov- ered process of keeping fruit freah by excluding the air, and there is genuine satisfaction in contemplating the rows of cans filled with the different kinds of fruit, showing clear and distinct through the glass, and we are conservative enough to hope that the time will not come when the business of canning fruit shall be relegated, entirely, into the hands of the mercenary factory owner with his tin can with its overdrawn label. General Directions. First. See that the cans and elastics are perfect and that thts .screw fits properly. Second. Have fruit boiling hot when sealed. 159 160 CANNING FRUIT. Have pan on stove in which each empty can is set to be filled after it is rolled in hot water. Fill can to overflowing, put on the top quickly, screw tightly; as contents cool, screw again and again, to keep tight. Third. Use glass cans, and keep in a cool, dark, but dry place. Light spoils them. Table for Canning Fruit. Time for Quantity boiling of sugar fruit. per qt. Apricots 10 min. 8 oz. Sour Apples 10 6 ' Crab Apples 25 •' 8 " Blackberries 6 " 6 Gooseberries 8 " 8 Raspberries 6 " 4 " Huckleberries 5 " 4 " Strawberries 8 " 8 Cherries 5 " 6 Currants 6 " 8 Wild Grapes 10 " 8 " Sour Pears, whole 30 " 8 Bartlett Pears 20 " 6 " Peaches, in halves 8 " 4 Plums 10 " 8 " Peaches, whole 15 4 Pine-apple, sliced 15 " 6 Tomatoes SO " " Quinces 30 " 10 Rhubarb 10 " 10 " Apple Sauce. Ready for table use or for pies may be kept till apples are out of the market by putting it into hot jars and sealing at once. Canned Pine-apple. Pare the fruit and be very particular to cut out the eyes; chop fine and weigh it; add to it the same weight of sugar; mix thor- oughly in a large crock; let it stand twenty-four hours, then put CANNING FRUIT. 161 into cans, filling them full, and seal tight. After leaving them about two weeks it is well to see if there are any signs of working; if so, pour into a kettle and heat through and replace in the cans. Canned Pine-apple, No. 2. Three-fourths pound of sugar to one pound of fruit, allowing one cup of water to a pound of sugar. Pick the pine-apple to pieces with a silver fork; scald and can hot. Canned Berries. Heat slowly to boiling in a porcelain kettle; when they begin to boil, add sugar according to table above/ Before doing this, how- ever, if there is much juice in the kettle, dip out the surplus and save for jelly; it will only increase the number of cans. Leave the berries almost dry before putting in the sugar, this will make syrup enough. Boil all together and can. Canned Pears. Prepare a syrup, allowing a pint of water and one-fourth pound of sugar to one quart of fruit. While this is heating peel the pears, dropping each as it is pared into a pan of clear water. When the syrup has come to a fast boil, put in the pears carefully and boil until they look clear and can be easily pierced by a fork. Have the cans ready rolled in hot water; pack with the pears and fill to over- flowing with the scalding syrup, which must be kept on the fire all the while, and seal. The tougher and more common pears must be boiled in water until tender, and thrown while warm into the hot syrup, then allowed to boil ten minutes before they are canned. Canned Peaches. Pare, cut in half and stone, taking care not to break the fruit; drop each piece in cold water as soon as it is pared. Allow a heaping tablespoonful of sugar to each quart of fruit, scattering it between the layersl Fill your kettle and heat slowly to a boil. Boil three minutes, until every piece of fruit is heated through. 162 CANNING FRUIT. Can and seal. Put a cup of water in the bottom of the kettle before packing it with fruit, lest the lower layer should burn. Dried Peaches. Peaches, as usually dried, are a very good fruit; but can be made vastly better if treated the right way. Last season, the recipe which had quite a circulation in the papers, of drying the fruit by a stove after halving it, and sprinkling a little sugar into the cavity left by the extracted pits, was tried in our family. The fruit was found to be most excellent; better to the taste of nine out of ten persons, than any other peach preserves, by far. The peaches, however, were good ones before drying; for it is doubtful whether poor fruit can be made good by that process or any other. CHAPTER XII. ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. ^SE only the best materials for making and flavoring if good ice-cream is desired, and avoid using milk thickened with %$? arrow-root, corn starch or any other farinaceous substance. Pure cream, ripe natural fruits, or the extracts of the same, and sugar of the purest quality, combine to make a perfect ice-cream. In the first place secure a good ice-cream freezer. Of these several are made. Without recommending any particular make, we would suggest one be secured working with a crank and revolving dashers. Next secure an ice tub not less than eight inches greater in diame- ter than the freezer. See that it has a hole in the side near the bottom, with a plug, which can be drawn at pleasure, to let off water accumulating from melting ice. Get a spatula of hard wood — not metal— with a blade about twelve inches long and four or five inches wide and oval shaped at the end. This is used to scrape off cream which may adhere to the sides of the freezer in the process of freezing, also for working fruits and flavorings into the cream. A smaller spade is also necessary for mixing ice and salt together, and for depositing this mixture in the intervening space between can and ice tub. Ice must be pounded fine in a coarse, strong bag. To freeze the cream after it has been flavored, first pound up ice and mix with it a quantity of coarse salt, in the proportion of one- third the quantity of salt to the amount of ice used. Put freezing can in center of tub, taking care that the lid is securely fastened on, and pile the mixed ice and salt around it on inside of tub to within three inches of top. First turn the crank slowly, and as the cream. 103 164 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. hardens increase the speed until the mixture is thoroughly con- gealed and the revolving dashers are frozen in. Remove the lid, take out the dashers, cut away the cream which has adhered to the sides and proceed to work the mixture with the spatula until it is smooth and soft to the tongue. Re-insert the dashers, cover the can again, and work the crank until the entire contents are hard and well set. It is now ready to be served. Berry Cream. Any kind of berries may be used for this, strawberries being the nicest. Mash with a potato masher in an earthen bowl, one quart of berries with one pound of sugar; rub it through the colander; add one quart sweet cream and freeze. Very ripe peaches or mashed apples may be used instead of the berries. Burnt Sugar Ice-Cream. Take one-half pound of sugar, burn half of it in a sauce-pan or skillet; stir in sufficient water to bring to a liquid state; add the other sugar with one pint of milk containing four eggs well beaten. Flavor strongly with lemon, proceed as with other ices. Chocolate Ice-Cream. Use three or four ounces of the common unsweetened chocolate to a gallon of cream, or boiled custard. Boil the chocolate in some milk and sweeten to taste; strain it into the cream and flavor with vanilla. Beat the ice-cream to make it bright and rich colored. Melted chocolate cannot be mixed at once in cold cream as it sets and makes trouble. It must be considerably diluted first. Coffee Ice-Cream. To three quarts of pure, sweet cream add one pint of a decoction of very strong clear coffee. Sugar as usual — eight ounces to the quart. Lemon Ice-Cream. This is made with the same proportion of cream and sugar and one lemon; grate the lemon rind into the sugar; this extracts the ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 160 oil; then add the juice and the raw cream; strain and freeze imme- diately. Lemon cream sours more quickly than any other. Peach Ice-Cream. Take one quart of milk, two eggs, sugar to taste, one quart of peaches pared and stoned — mash and add to the custard. Proceed as usual. Pine-Apple Ice-Cream. Take two cans of pine-apples, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of cream (the cream must be nearly frozen, else the pine-apple pulp or syrup, upon being added, will immediately curdle it). Beat all thoroughly and finish freezing. Orange Ice-Cream. Make a custard same as for vanilla; add orange pulp, or simply flavor with orange, if preferred. Strawberry and Raspberry Ice-Cream. Bruise a pint of strawberries or raspberries with two large spoonfuls of fine sugar; add a quart of cream and strain through a sieve and freeze it. If you have no cream, boil a teaspoonful of arrowroot in a quart of milk, and if you like, beat up one egg and stir into it. Vanilla Ice-Cream. One quart of cream, half a pound of sugar, granulated, half a vanilla bean. Boil half the cream with the sugar and bean, then add the rest of the cream; cool and strain it. If extract of vanilla, or any other extract is used, do not boil it, but put it in the cream with the sugar and freeze. Make it strong with the flavoring, as it loses strength with freezing. COCOANTTT ICE-CREAM. Same as vanilla, omitting vanilla flavoring, and adding chopped cocoanut. 166 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. Frozen Tapioca Custard. Soak six or seven ounces of tapioca in one quart of milk; when soft, boil two quarts of milk sweetened with one and one-fourth pounds of sugar; then add the tapioca and let it cook fifteen min- utes; then stir in two ounces of butter and eight beaten eggs and * take the custard immediately off the fire; cool and flavor with vanilla or lemon and freeze like ice-cream; when nearly finished, add one cup of whipped cream and beat well. Frozen Rice Custard. Wash six ounces of rice in several waters and cook it in milk; then proceed as in tapioca custard, using cinnamon or any other flavoring desired. Frozen Sago Custard. Soak the sago in cold milk fii-st, it will then cook in a few minutes; then proceed as in tapioca custard. "Water-Ices. These are made with the juices of ripe fruits, sweetened and frozen like ice-cream; but it must be remembered that if the juices are sweetened excessively they will not freeze. It is therefore generally necessary to test them with an instrument called a saccharometer. This applies equally to ice-creams and all drinks to be frozen; and for water-ices clarified sugar should be used, which may be prepared in the following manner: To a quart of water add three pounds of sugar and half of the white of an egg well beaten up. This should be boiled ten minutes and skimmed. Cherry Water-Ice with Nut Cream. Two freezers will be required. For the cherry ice take two quarts of sweet cherries, one quart of water, one and one-half pounds of sugar. Pound the raw fruit in a mortar so as to break the stones and strain the juice through a fine strainer into the freezer. Boil the cherry pulp with some of the sugar and water to ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 167 extract the flavor from the kernels, and mash that also through the strainer; add to the remainder of water and sugar and freeze. No eggs are needed and only beat the ice enough to make it even and smooth. For the nut cream, use one pound of either pecan or hickory-nut meats, three-fourths of a pound of sugar, one quart of rich milk or cream, one tablespoonf ul of burnt sugar for coloring. Pick over the kernels carefully, that there be no fragments of shells to make the cream gritty, then pound them in a mortar with part of the sugar and a few spoonfuls of milk. Only a few can be pounded effectually at a time. Mix the milk with the pulp thus obtained, the rest of the sugar and caramel coloring, enough to make it like coffee and cream, and run it through a strainer into a freezer. Freeze it as usual and beat smooth with a spatula, then pack down with more ice to freeze firm. Line the moulds with cherry ice and fill the middle with the cream, or dish the ice as a border in shallow glasses with the cream piled in the center. Strawberry Water-Ice. To a pound of ripe strawberries and half a pound of currants add a pint of clarified sugar. If desired, a little coloring may be used. The whole must then be strained through a hair sieve and frozen. Raspberry Water-Ice. This may be' made the same as strawberry water-ice by merely substituting raspberries for strawberries. Burnt Almond Ice Cream and Orange-Ice. First make the almond candy as follows: Take one pound of sugar, three-fourths pound of sweet almonds, two ounces of bitter almonds. Blanch the almonds, split them and put them in a slow oven to dry and acquire a light yellow color; put the sugar in a kettle on the fire, without any water, and stir it until it is all melted and of the color of golden syrup; then put in the hot almonds, stir gently to mix and pour the candy on a platter. When cold, pound the candy quite fine, put it into three pints of rich milk, set it on 168 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. the fire, and when it boils add the beaten yolks of ten eggs. Strain the burnt almond custard thus made into a freezer, and freeze as usual and beat well. For the orange ice: Take three pints of water, one pound of sugar, five or six oranges, according to size, juice of one lemon, if the oranges are sweet, whites of four eggs. Make a thick syrup of the sugar and a very little water. Peel half the oranges, divide them by their natural divisions and drop the pieces of oranges into the boiling syrup. Grate the yellow peel of the other three oranges into a bowl and squeeze in the juice, then pour the syrup from the scalded orange slices also into the bowl through a strainer and keep the slices on ice to be mixed in at the last. Add the water and lemon juice to the orange syrup in the bowl, strain and freeze. Beat in the whipped whites as usual, and when finished stir in the sugared fruit. Use the burnt almond cream and fill with the orange ice. Biscuit Glaces. To half a pound of powdered sugar add the yolks of four eggs; flavor with vanilla; beat well, then take two quarts of whipped cream and mix with the sugar and yolks; color some of it red and spread on the bottom of paper capsules and fill up with fresh cream. Then put them in a tin box with cover and pack well up on all sides with pounded ice and salt and let stand for two hours; it is then ready for use. Rateffe Biscuit Cream. Make the same as vanilla; when nearly frozen add one-half pound of rateffe biscuit and finish freezing. Tutti Frutti. When a rich vanilla cream is partly frozen, candied cherries, chopped raisins, chopped citron or any other candied fruit chopped rather fine are added; add about half the quantity of fruit that there is of ice-cream; mold and imbed in ice and salt; or make also two quarts of orange ice in another freezer, add the white of eggs ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. 169 in the usual manner and beat it up white and smooth, then spread it evenly over the insides of two or three melon molds to coat them. Imbed the molds in the freezing mixture, and when the coatino- of orange ice is frozen firm fill up with the tutti frutti. Spread the orange ice also on top, put on the lids, secure with a number of rubber bauds, close all spaces securely with butter and place the molds in the freezing mixture to remain two or three hours. When to be served wash the outsides with a cloth dipped in tepid water carefully turn out the tutti frutti on to a folded napkin on a dish lay a decoration of gelatine paste upon the white surface and serve. Gelatine Paste fob Ornamenting Ices. Make clear jelly in the usual manner, then reduce it by slow boiling to little more than half, color it as desired, filter again, flavor, and cool it on large platters. Stamp out leaves, fern leaves, flower shapes, etc., and have them ready to place on the molded ices as soon as they are turned out. Pine-Apple Sherbet. Take two cans of pine-apples or the same amount of ripe pine- ipples, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, whites of six ^ggs. Strain the juice from the cans into the freezer. Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and one quart of water. Chop the pine- apples small, scald it in the boiling syrup, then rub it through a colander with the syrup and the remaining quart of water into the freezer. Freeze and add the whites of four eggs, and beat it per- fectly white. To Color Ice Cream or Water Ices. For Green, use juice of spinach or beet leaves. Vegetable green, already prepared, can be bought at the druggists. For Yellow, saffron soaked in warm water. For Red, take cochineal, which can be had at any druggists, or made as follows: One-quarter ounce cochineal, pound finely and add one-half pint boiling water, one-half ounce cream of tartar, one-quar- 170 ICES AND ICE-CREAMS. ter ounce alum, and one-quarter ounce salt of tartar. Let it stand until the color is extracted, then strain and bottle. For Purple, mix a small quantity of cochineal and ultramarine blue. For Brown, use powdered chocolate. Other colors can be used, but these are all good, showy and quite narmless. CHAPTER XIII. ICINGS. ^[jTOR icing cakes use only fresh eggs and sift your pulverized sugar. Almond Icing. Whites of three eggs, whisked to a standing froth, three-quarters pound of powdered sugar, one-half pound of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded to a paste. When beaten fine and smooth, work gradually into the icing; flavor with lemon juice and rose water. This frosting is delicious. Dry in the open air when this is practicable. Boiled Icing. One and one-half cups of sugar; put to this two tablespoonfuls of water; let it boil on the back of the stove until it is waxy, or stringy; then add whites of two eggs. Boiled Icing, No. 2. Whites of four eggs, beaten stiff; one pint of sugar, melted in water and then boiled; add to it the eggs, and beat until cold. Chocolate Icing. Take the whites of two eggs, one and one-half cups powdered sugar, and six large tablespoonfuls of chocolate. Chocolate Icing, No. 2. One-half cake of chocolate grated fine, two-thirds of a cup of sugar, one-half cup of milk or cream ; boiled and stirred to a paste, 171 172 ICINGS. Chocolate Icing, No. 3. One-half cake chocolate; warm in the oven ten minutes; add one heaping cup of sugar, one teaspoonful cinnamon, one-half teaspoon- ful cloves, the same of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla; pour a little water on the sugar, put it on the chocolate, heat on the stove, melt it to a smooth paste, stir in the spices. Clear Icing, for Cake. Put one cup sugar into a bowl with a tablespoonful lemon juice and whites of two eggs. Just mix together smooth and pour over the cake; if the cake is not hot enough to dry it, place it in the mouth of a moderately warm oven. Icing for Cakes. Whites of four eggs, one pound of pulverized sugar, flavor with lemon; break the whites into a broad, cool, clean dish; throw a small handful of sugar upon them and begin to whip it in with long, even strokes of the beater. A few minutes later throw in more sugar and keep adding it at intervals until it is all used up. Beat until the icing is of a smooth, fine and firm texture; if not stiff enough, put in more sugar; use at least a quarter of a pound of sugar for each egg. To spread it, use a broad-bladed knife dipped in cold water. Tutti Frtttti Frosting. One-half cup of water, three cups of sugar, whites of two eggs; boil sugar and water until very thick and waxy; beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and pour the syrup over them, beating all till cool; then add one-half pound of almonds, chopped fine; one small half cup of large white raisins, and a little citron, sliced thin. Very nice for sponge cake. Lemon Icing. Whites of two eggs, two cups of sugar, juice and a part of the rind of two lemons. ICINGS. 173 Ornamental Icing. Fill a paper cone with the icing, and work upon the cake, by slightly pressing the cone, any design you may choose. Yellow Icing. Yolk of one egg to nine heaping teaspoonf uls of pulverised sugar and flavor with vanilla, or lemon. Rose Coloring. Mix together one-fourth ounce each of powdered alum and cream of tartar, one ounce cochineal, four ounces loaf sugar, a s:\ltspoon- ful of soda. Boil ten minutes in a pint of clear, soft water; when cool, bottle and cork for use. This is used for jellies r eitkes, ice- cream, etc. CHAPTER XIV. JAMS AND JELLIES. •N making jam, the first thing to be looked after is the fruit. As a general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It should be gathered in the morning of a sunny day, as it will then possess its finest flavor. The best sugar is the cheapest; indeed, there is no economy in stinting the sugar either as to quality or necessary quantity, for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and the jam will not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar is boiled with the fruit. At the same time too large a proportion of sugar will destroy the natural flavor of the fruit, and in all probability make the jam candy. The sugar should be dried and broken up into small pieces before it is mixed with the fruit. If it is left in large lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if it is crushed to powder it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. The quantity to be used must depend in every instance on the nature of the fruit. Fruit is gen- erally boiled in a brass or copper kettle uncovered, and this should be kept perfectly bright and clean. Great care should be taken not to place the kettle flat upon the fire, as this will be likely to make the jam burn to the bottom. Glass jars or cans are much the best for jams, as through them the condition of the fruit can be observed. Whatever jars are used, howevei*, the jam should be examined every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are any signs of mold or fermentation it should be boiled over again. If you do not use the patent glass jar, the best way to cover jam is to lay a piece of paper the size of the jar upon the jam, to 174 JAMS AND JELLIES. 175 stretch over the top a piece of writing paper or tissue paper which has been dipped in white of egg, and to press the sides closely down. When dry, this paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. The strict economist may use gum Arabic dissolved in water instead of white of egg. The object aimed at is to exclude the air entirely. Jam should be stored in a cool, dry place, but not in one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has a tendency to make the fruit mold, and heat to make it ferment. Some cooks cover the jam as soon as possible after it is poured out, but the generally- approved plan is to let the fruit grow cool before covering it. In making jam continual watchfulness is required, as the result of five minutes' inattention may be loss and disappointment. Apricot Jam. Pare three pounds of fresh, sound apricots, halve them, and take out the stones. They should be ripe enough to halve with the fingers. Place them in a deep dish, and strew over them one pound of finely sifted sugai\ Let them remain for eight hours. Then place them with the syrup that will have oozed from them in ? preserving-pan; add a few of the kernels blanched and sliced, anc 1 another pound and a half of sugar. Let them boil veiy gently, and, when done, put them into glasses or jars and cover closely with gummed paper. Marmalades and Jams. In making marmalades, jams, etc. — If put up in small quantities and for immediate use, three-quarters of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit is sufficient; but if desirable to keep them longer, a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is a better proportion. As in preserves, the best sugar should be used. Apple Jam. Peel and core the apples, cut in thin slices and put them in a preserving kettle with three-quarters of a pound of white sugar to every pound of fruit; add (tied up in a piece of muslin) a few 176 JAMS AND JELLIES. cloves, a small piece of ginger and a thin rind of lemon; stir with a wooden spoon on a quick fire for half an hour. ■ Blackberry, Raspberry, Currant or Strawberry Jam, May be made by putting into a preserving kettle and boiling fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring often and skimming off any <5cum that may rise; then add sugar in the proportion of three- fourths pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Boil thirty minutes longer stirring continually; when done pour into small jars or jelly glasses. A good way is to mix raspberries and currants in the pro- portion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter. Grape, Gooseberry, or Plum Jam. Stew the berries in a little water, press through a coarse sieve or colander; then return to the kettle and add three-fourths pound of sugar to one pound of the pulped fruit. Boil three-fourths of an hour, stirring constantly. Pour in jars or bowls and cover as directed for other jams. Apple Marmalade. Peel and slice the apples; weigh and put into a kettle and stew until tender; wash fine and add sugar in proportion of pound to pound; let them cook slowly, stirring very frequently; be careful not to allow it to scorch; when the mass has a jellied appearance it is done. About half an hour will generally be found sufficient for making the marmalades after adding the sugar. Orange Marmalade. Eighteen sweet, ripe oranges, six pounds best white sugar. Grate the peel from four oranges, and reserve it for the marmalade. The rinds of the rest will not be needed. Pare the fruit carefully, removing the inner white skin as well as the yellow; slice the orange; remove the seeds; put the fruit and grated peel in a por- celain or enamel saucepan and boil steadily until the pulp is reduced to a smooth mass; take from the fire and rub quickly through a JAMS AND JELLIES. 177 clean, bright colander, as the color is easily injured. Stir in the sugar, return to the fire, and boil fast, stirring constantly half an hour, or until thick. Put while warm into small jars, but do not cover until cold. This is a handsome and delicious sweetmeat. Pine-Apple Marmalade. Pare, slice, core, and weigh the pine-apple; then cut into small bits; make a syrup of a cup of water to two pounds of sugar; melt and heat to a boil; heat the chopped pine-apple in a vessel set within one of boiling water, covering it closely to keep in the flavor; when it is smoking hot all through, and begins to look clear, add to the syrup; boil together half an hour, stirring all the while, or until it is a clear, bright paste. Peach Marmalade. Pare, stone, and weigh the fruit; heat slowly to draw out the juice, stirring up often from the bottom with a wooden spoon; after it is hot, boil quickly, still stirring, three-quarters of an hour; add, then, the sugar, allowing three-quarters of a pound to each pound of the fruit; boil up well for five minutes, taking off every particle of scum; add the juice of a lemon for every three pounds of fruit, and the water in which one-fourth of the kernels have been boiled and steeped; stew all together ten minutes, stirring to a smooth paste, and take from the fire ; put up hot in air-tight cans, or, when cold, in small stone or glass jars, with brandied tissue-paper fitted neatly to the surface of the marmalade. A large ripe pine-apple, pared and cut up fine, and stirred with the peaches, is a fine addi- tion to the flavor. Quince Marmalade. Such quinces as are too knotty and defective to make good pre- serves may be pared and cored, cut into small pieces and put into the kettle with three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; put a small cup of cold water in first to prevent burning. When the quince begins to soften, take a potato masher and mash it 12 178 JELLIES. to a pulp, without taking it from the fire; let it boil gently from fifteen to twenty minutes, not longer than twenty. Take from the fire and put into jars. Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and grapes all make nice marmalades. Plum Marmalade. Choose plums that are fully ripe; scald them till the skins peel off, and take out the stones. Allow a pound and a half of sugar to a pound of fruit; let them lie in the sugar a few hours, then boil to a smooth mass. Pumpkin Marmalade. Take ripe, yellow pumpkins, pare and cut them into large pieces, scraping out the seeds with an iron spoon; weigh the pieces, and to every pound allow one pound of white sugar, and a small orange or lemon; grate pieces of pumpkin on a coarse grater, and put, together with the sugar, into a preserving pan, the yellow rind of the orange, grated, and the juice, strained. Let all boil slowly, stirring it frequently and skimming it well till it is a smooth, thick marmalade; put it warm into small glass jars or tumblers anf j)ICKLES are made of fruit or vegetables preserved in vinegar, and may be used as accompaniments to cold meat, to garnish dishes, and to flavor hashes and sauces. It is generally understood that they can be bought cheaper than they can be made. Nevertheless, there is always a certain amount of satisfaction in using home-made preparations, as by this means the quality of the article can be assured beyond all question, and many ladies take great pride in their store of home-made pickles. A great outcry was raised some years ago about the unwholesomeness of pickles, and attention was called to the fact that most of those ordinarily sold were positively pernicious, because the vinegar used in making them was boiled in copper vessels. This evil has now been, to a great extent, remedied; and it may be reasonably assumed that pickles which are sold by respectable dealers have been properly prepared. At the same time, for safety's sake, the rule should be laid down that all pickles which are beautiful and brilliant in color and appearance should be avoided, as this is a certain sign that the vinegar used has been boiled in a metal pan. In making pickles, care must be taken that the vegetables and fruit used for the pur- pose are procured at the right season, that they are perfectly sound, not overripe, and have been gathered on a dry day. They should be trimmed and wiped before they are used, and not washed, unless they are afterwards to be partially boiled or soaked. The vinegar must be of the best quality. White wine vinegar is generally recommended, for the sake of the appearance, but it is not as PICKLES. 191 ■wholesome as the best cider vinegar. Metal utensils should never be used in making pickles, as the vinegar acting upon the metal produces a poison. Enameled or stone vessels and wooden spoons should therefore be used; and the best method that can be adopted is to put the vinegar into a stone jar, and heat it on a stone or hot hearth. Pickles should be kept in glass bottles, or unglazed earthen jars, and should be closely corked, and the corks sealed down, or covered with wet bladder. They should be stored in a dry place. As the vinegar becomes absorbed more should be added, as it is important that the vegetables should be covered at least two inches above the surface with vinegar. If any of the vinegar is left after the pickle is used, it should be boiled up with fresh spices, and bottled for flavoring sauces, etc. It should be remembered that to boil vinegar is to decrease its strength. If it is wished to hasten the preparation of the pickles, partially boil the vegetables in brine and let them cool and get quite dry before the vinegar is poured over them. Pickled Artichokes. Boil your artichokes in strong salt and water for two or three minutes; lay on a hair sieve to drain; when cold, lay in narrow- topped jars. Take as much white wine vinegar as will cover the artichokes, and boil it with a blade or two of mace, some root ginger, and a nutmeg grated fine. Pour it on hot, seal and put away for use. Pickled Butternuts and Walnuts. Gather them when soft enough to be pierced by a pin; lay them in brine five days, changing this twice in the meantime; drain, and wipe them with a coarse cloth; pierce each by running a large needle through it, and lay in cold water for six hours. To each gallon of vinegar allow a cup of sugar, three dozen each of cloves and black peppers, half as much allspice, and a dozen blades of mace. Boil five minutes; pack the nuts in small jars and pour over them scalding hot. Repeat this twice within a week; tie up and set away. They will be good to eat in a month. 192 PICKLES. Pickled Beans. The beans should be gathered young. Place them in a strong brine of salt and water; when turning yellow, which will be in a day or two, remove them and wipe them dry. Boil the vinegar with a little mace, whole pepper, and ginger (two ounces of pepper and one ounce each of ginger and mace to each quart of vinegar) ; pour this over the beans. A small bit of alum, or a teaspoonful of soda will bring back the color. Cover them to keep in the steam and reboil the vinegar the next day; throw over hot as before. Cover, but do not tie down till cold. Pickled Beets. Take the beets, cleanse and boil two hours. When cold peel and slice, put into a jar and cover with vinegar prepared in the following manner: Boil half an ounce each of cloves, pepper-corns, mace and ginger in a pint of vinegar, when cold add another pint. Pickled Bkocoli. Choose the finest, whitest and closest vegetables before they are quite ripe. Pare off all green leaves and the outsides of the stalks. Parboil them in well-salted water. When drained and dry pull off the branches in convenient sized pieces and put them into a jar of pickle prepared as for onions. Time to parboil, four or five minutes. Bottled Pickles. Wash and wipe small cucumbers; put into a stone jar and cover with salt — allowing a pint of salt to a half bushel of cucumbers — and pour over them boiling water enough to cover. Place a gallon at a time on the stove, cover with vinegar, and add a lump of alum about the size of a hickory nut. Put on the stove in another kettle a gallon of the very best cider vinegar, to which add half a pint of brown sugar; have bottles cleansed and placed to heat on stove in a vessel of cold water; also have a cup of heated sealing-wax. Have spices prepared in separate dishes as follows: Green and red PICKLES. 193 peppers sliced in rings; horse-radish roots washed, scraped and cut in small pieces; black and yellow mustard seed if liked, each pre- pared by sprinkling with salt and pouring on some boiling water, which let stand for fifteen minutes and then draw off; stick of cinnamon broken into pieces and a few cloves. When pickles come to boiling point, take out and pack in bottles, mixing with them the spices. Put in a layer of pickles, then a layer of spices, shaking the bottles occasionally so as to pack tightly. When full, cover with the boiling hot vinegar from the other kettle (using a bright funnel and tin cup), going over them a second time and filling up, in order to supply shrinkage, for the pickles must be entirely covered with vinegar. Put in the corks, which should fit very snugly; lift each bottle and dip the corked end in the hot sealing- wax; proceed in this manner with each bottle, dipping each a second time into the wax so that they may be perfectly secure. Glass cans, the covers of which have become defective, can be used by supplying corks. Pickles prepared in this way are superior to imported pickles. Mary's Pickled Blackberries. Three quarts blackberries, one quart vinegar, one quart sugar, No spice is required; put all together at the same time into your kettle and boil ten or fifteen minutes. After standing a few weeks they are very nice. To Put up Cucumbers in Brine. Leave at least an inch of stem to the cucumbers, and wash well in cold water. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; put your cucumbers in this as you gather them each day from the vines. Cut a board so as to fit inside of your barrel; bore holes here and there through it, and put this board on the cucum- bers with a weight sufficient to keep it down. Each day take off the scum that rises. When wanted for use, take out what is necessary and soak them two or three days, or until the salt is out 13 194 PICKLES. of them, and then pom* boiling spiced vinegar over them. A red pepper or two is an improvement if one likes hot pickles. Pickled Cabbage. Select solid heads, slice very fine, put in a jar, then cover with boiling water; when cold, drain off the water, and season with grated horse radish, salt, equal parts of black and red pepper, cinna- mon and whole cloves. Pickled Cauliflower. Choose such as are firm, yet of their full size; cut away all the leaves and pare the stalks; pull away the flowers in bunches, steep in brine two days, then drain them, wipe them dry, and put them in hot pickle, or merely infuse for three days three ounces of curry powder in every quart of vinegar. ■ Pickled Cauliflower, No. 2. These should be sliced and salted for two or three days, then drained, and spread upon a dry cloth before the fire for twenty- four hours; after which they are put into a jar, and covered with piced vinegar. Picked Cabbage, No. 2. Slice red cabbage very thin; put on it a little coarse salt, and let it rest twenty-four hours to drain; add sliced onions, if you like them. Boil four spoonfuls pepper, and four of allspice in a quart of vinegar, and pour it over. Pickled Cucumbers. Wash with care your cucumbers, and place in jars. Make a weak brine (a handful of salt to a gallon and a half of water). When scalding hot, turn over the cucumbers and cover; repeat this process three mornings in succession, taking care to skim thor- oughly. On the fourth day have ready a porcelain kettle of vinegar, to which has been added a piece of alum the size of a v-alnut. When scalding hot, put in as many cucumbers as may be covered with the vinegar; do not let them boil, but skim out as PICKLES. 195 soon as scalded through, and replace with others, adding o-aoa ^i.me a small piece of alum. When this process is through, throw out the vinegar, and replace with good cider or white wine vinegar; add spices, mustard seed and red pepper. Sort the pickles and place them in stone or glass jars, turn over the hot spiced vinegar; seaS and put away the jars not wanted for immediate use. Pickles thus prepared are fine and crisp at the expiration of a year. Those that are kept in open mouth jars may be covered with a cloth, which will need to be taken off and rinsed occasionally. Chow-Chow. Two quarts of tomatoes, two white onions, half-dozen green pep- pers, one dozen cucumbers, two heads of cabbage, all chopped fine; let this stand over night; sprinkle a cup of salt in it. In the morn- ing drain off the brine, and season with one tablespoonful of celery seed, one ounce of turmeric, half teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one cup of brown sugar, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of all- spice, one ounce of black pepper, one-quarter ounce cloves, vinegar enough to cover, and boil two hours. Chow-Chow, No. 2. Two heads of cabbage, two heads of cauliflower, one dozen cucumbers, six roots of celery, six peppers, one quart of small white onions, two quarts of green tomatoes; cut into small pieces and boil each vegetable separately until tender, then strain them. Two gallons of vinegar, one-fourth pound of mustard, one-fourth pound of mustard seed, one pot of French mustard, one ounce of cloves, two ounces of turmeric; put the vinegar and spices into a kettle and let them come to a boil; mix the vegetables and pour over the dressing. Pickled Cherries. Take the largest and ripest red cherries, remove the stems, have ready a large glass jar, fill it two-thirds full with cherries, and fill up to the top with best vinegar; keep it well covered and no boil- 196 PICKLES. ing or spice is necessary, as the cherry flavor will be retained, and the cherries will not shrivel. French Pickles. One peck of green tomatoes, sliced, six large onions, sliced; sprinkle over fchem one cup of salt; let them stand over night; in the morning drain and boil for fifteen minutes in two parts water and one part vinegar; drain again; take two quarts vinegar, one pound sugar, one tablespoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and all- spice; boil together for fifteen minutes and pour over the pickles. Pickled Grapes. Fill a jar with alternate layers of sugar and bunches of nice grapes, not too ripe; fill one-third full of good, cold vinegar and cover tightly. Pickled Grapes, No. 2. When grapes are not quite ripe, but dark colored, pick from the stem and wash ; put in bottles ; in a dish pm, sugar and vinegar, and boil a few minutes; add spices to taste; boil a few minutes., pour over the grapes and seal up the bottles. To Harden Pickles. After they are taken out of the brine take a lump of alum and a horse-radish cut in strips; put this in the vinegar, and it will make them hard and crisp. When you wish to make a few cucumber pickles quick, take good cider vinegar; heat it boiling hot and pour it over them. When cool, they are ready for use. Lemon Pickles. Wipe six lemons, cut each into eight pieces; put on them a pound. of salt, six large cloves of garlic, two ounces of horse-radish, sliced thin, likewise of cloves, mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of an ounce each, and two ounces of flour of mustard; to these put two quarts of vinegar. Boil a quarter of an hour in a well-tinned sauce- pan; or, which is better, do it in a strong jar, in a kettle of boiling PICKLES. 197 water; or set the jar on the hot hearth till done. Set the jar by, and stir it daily for six weeks; keep the jar close covered. Put it into small bottles. Mangoes of Melons. Take green melons and make a brine strong enough to bear up an egg; then pour it boiling hot on the melons, keeping them under the brine; let them stand five or six days, slit them down on one side, take out all the seeds, scrape them well in the inside, and wash them clean; then take cloves, garlic, ginger, nutmeg and pepper; put all these proportionately into the melons, filling them up with mustard seed; then lay them into an earthern pot, and take one part of mustard seed and two parts of vinegar, enough to cover them, pouring it on scalding hot. Keep them closely covered. Imitation Pickled Mangoes. Large cucumbers, or small melons, are split so that a marrow- spoon may be introduced, and the seeds scooped out; they are then parboiled in brine strong enough to float an egg, dried on a cloth before the fire, filled with mustard seed and a clove of garlic, and then covered with spiced vinegar. Real mangoes are pickled in the same way. Pickled Nasturtiums. Soak for three days in strong salt and water; then strain and pour boiling vinegar over them, omitting the spice. Vinegar for any pickle should never be allowed to boil over one minute. Pickled Onions. Small silver-skinned onions; remove outer skin so that each one is white and clean; put them into brine that will float an egg for three days; bring vinegar to a boiling point, add a little mace and whole red peppers and pour hot over the onions, well drained from the brine. Pickled Onions, No. 2. Peel the onions and let them lie in strong salt and water nine days, changing the water each day; then put them into jars and 198 PICKLES. pour fresh salt and water on them, this time boiling hot; when it is cold, take them out and put them on a hair sieve to drain, after which put them in wide-mouthed bottles and pour over them vinegar prepared in the following manner: Take white wine vinegar and boil it with a blade of mace, some salt and ginger in it; when cool, pour over the onions. Pickles. An excellent way to make pickles that will keep a year or more is to drop them into boiling hot water, but not boil them; let them stay ten minutes, wipe them dry, and drop them into cold, spiced vinegar, and they will not need to be put in salt and water. Stuffed Peppers. Chop a large cabbage finely, add one large spoonful grated horse- radish root and one ounce of white mustard seed; mix all this well; cut pieces out of the stem ends of large green peppers, large as a silver dollar; fill with the filling and sew the piece in again with cotton thread; then take vinegar enough to cover; spice with cloves, mace and allspice, whole; boil, and when nearly cold, pour over the peppers; no salt is to be used. Mangoes are pickled and stuffed in the same manner. Mixed Pickles. One quart raw cabbage chopped fine; one quart boiled beets chopped fine; two cups of sugar, tablespoonful of salt, one tea- spoonful red pepper, one cup of grated horse-radish; cover with cold vinegar and keep from the air. Mixed Pickles, No. 2. Three hundred small cucumbers, four green peppers sliced fine, two large or three small heads cauliflower, three heads of white cabbage sliced fine, nine large onions sliced, one large horse-radish, one quart green beans cut one inch long, one quart green tomatoes sliced; put this mixture in a pretty strong brine twenty-four hours; drain three hours; then sprinkle in one-fourth pound black and PICKLES. 199 one-fourth pound of white mustard seed; also one tablespoonful black ground pepper; let it come to a good boil in just vinegar enough to cover it, adding a little alum; drain again and when cold put in one-half pint ground mustard; cover the whole with good cider vinegar; add turmeric enough to color if you like. India Pickles. Take three quarts of vinegar, quarter pound mustard, half ounce of black pepper, one ounce cloves, one ounce allspice, one ounce turmeric, one ounce ginger, one ounce Cayenne pepper, hand- ful of salt and the same of sugar; boil for twenty minutes. When cold put in the vegetables, cucumbers, onions, cauliflower cut up small, and cover closely. If the liquid should seem thin, boil again and add more mustard in three weeks after making. Pyper Pickles. Salt pickles down dry for ten days, soak in fresh water one day; pour off water, place in porcelain kettle, cover with water and vinegar and add one teaspoonful pulverized alum; set over night on a stove which had fire in it during the day; wash and put in a jar with cloves, allspice, pepper, horse-radish, onions or garlic; boil fresh vinegar and pour over all. Ready for use in two weeks. Ragan Pickles. Two gallons of cabbage, sliced fine, one gallon of chopped green tomatoes, twelve onions, also chopped, one gallon best vinegar, one pound of brown sugar, one tablespoonful of black pepper, half an ounce of turmeric powder, one ounce celery seed, one table- spoonful of ground allspice, one tablespoonful of ground cloves, one-quarter pound white mustard, and one gill of salt. Boil all together, stirring well, for two hours; take from the fire and add the spices, then put in air-tight jars; set in a cool, dry place, and this delicious pickle will keep all winter. Sweet Pickles. To every seven pounds of fruit allow three and one-half pounds 200 PICKLES. of sugar and one pint of cider vinegar, two ounces whole cloves, two of stick cinnamon. This is for peaches, pears, apples or musk melons. Peaches, pears, and apples should be ' pared only, not divided. Then in each stick two whole cloves. The cinnamon should be boiled in the vinegar. Put the prepared fruit into a jar and pour the vinegar, scalding hot, over it. Repeat this for three mornings. These sweet pickles will be found delicious, and will keep any length of time. The melons should be cut in strips as if to serve fresh on the table, and should not be too ripe. Simmer them thirty minutes slowly in the prepared vinegar, and they will need no further attention except to keep them closely covered, and they will keep good a year. Sweet Apple Pickle. Pickled sweet apples can be made by taking three pounds of sugar, two quarts of vinegar, one-half ounce of cinnamon, one-half ounce of cloves; pare the apples, leaving them whole; boil them in part of the vinegar and sugar until you can put a fork through them; take them out; heat the remainder of the vinegar and sugar and pour over them. Be careful not to boil them too long or they will break. Sweet Tomato Pickle. Seven pounds of ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced, three and a lalf pounds of sugar, one pound of mace and cinnamon mixed, one ounce of cloves, one quart of vinegar. Mix all together and stew an hour. Green Tomato Pickles.. Slice one peck of tomatoes into a jar and sprinkle a little salt over each layer; let them stand twenty-four hours, drain off the liquor; put the tomatoes into a kettle with a teaspoonful of each of the following spices: Ground ginger, allspice, cloves, mace, cinnamon, a teaspoonful of scraped horse-radish, twelve small or three large red peppers, three onions, a cup of brown sugar; cover all with vinegar; boil slowly for three hours. PICKLES. 201 PlCALILLI. One peck green tomatoes, one large cabbage, one dozen onions; add half pint salt; after the above have been chopped line let it stand over night; in the morning drain off the brine and scald in weak vinegar; drain this off and stir in ground spices to suit the taste; add six red peppers and a little horse-radish root; pack in a crock and cover with strong vinegar; a few small cucumbers put in whole are quite an addition. PlCKLETTE. Four large crisp cabbages chopped fine, one quart of onions chopped fine, two quarts of vinegar, or enough to cover the cabbage, two tablespoonf uls each of ground mustard, black pepper, cinnamon, turmeric, celery seed, and one of allspice, pulverized alum and mace. Pack the onions and cabbage in alternate layers with a little salt between them. Let them stand until next day. Then scald the vinegar, sugar and spices together and pour over the cabbage and onions. Do this three mornings in succession. On the fourth put all together over the fire and heat to a boil; let them boil five minutes. When cold pack in small jars. It is fit for use as soon as cold and will keep well. Spiced Vinegar for Pickles Generally. Bruise in a mortar two ounces black pepper, one ounce ginger, one-half ounce allspice, and one ounce salt. If a hotter pickle is desired, add one-half drachm Cayenne, or a few capsicums. For walnuts add also one ounce shallots. Put these in a stone jar, with a quart of vinegar, and cover them with a bladder wetted with the pickle, and over this a piece of leather. Set the jar near the fire for three days, shaking it three time a day; then pour it on the walnuts or other vegetables. For walnuts it is used hot; for cabbage, etc., cold. Pickled Peaches. To fourteen pounds of peaches peeled, put three pounds of brown 2 % PICKLES. sugar, three tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, same of powdered cloves,, to one quart of strong cider vinegar. Let the vinegar, sugar,, and spices boil a very little while; then put in your peaches and let them scald enough to stick a straw through them with ease. Take them out and put them in an earthen jar, seeing that the vinegar covers them well, which must be poured over the packed peaches. Put a cover over them lightly the first day; the second pour off the vinegar, heat and pour it boiling hot over the fruit. Repeat till the fruit is ready for use. Four or five times heating will generally cure them. Watch closely and if any fermentation occurs pour off the vinegar and scald it, skimming off any scum that arises. Pickled Peaches that will Keep. Four pounds sugar, one pint vinegar, to twelve pounds of fruit; put sugar and vinegar together and boil; then add the fruit and let it come to a boil; the next day drain off the liquor and boil again; do this three times and your pickles are delicious; add cinnamon to the liquor and stick two or three cloves in each peach. To Pickle Plums. For eight pounds of fruit take four pounds of sugar, two quarts of vinegar, one ounce cinnamon, and one ounce cloves; boil the vinegar, sugar, and spices together; skim, and pour scalding hot over your fruit; let it set three days, pour off the syrup, scald and skim and pour over again, and continue this process every three days till you have scalded it three times, after which it will be fit for use. Plums prepared in this way we think superior to the old method of preserving with sugar alone. Green Tomato Soy. Two gallons of green tomatoes sliced without peeling; slice also twelve good sized onions; two quarts of vinegar, one quart of sugar, two tablespoonfuls each of salt, ground mustard, and ground black pepper, one tablespoonful of cloves and allspice. Mix all together and stew until tender, stirring often lest they should scorch. Put up in small glass jars. A good sauce for all kinds of meat or fish. pickles. 203: To Keep Tomatoes Whole. Fill a large stone jar with ripe tomatoes, then add a few whole cloves and a little sugar; cover them well with one-half cold vinegar and half water; place a piece of flannel over the jar well down in the vinegar, then tie down with paper. In this way toma- toes can be kept a year. Should mildew collect on the flannel it will not hurt them in the least. Pickled Tomatoes. Let the tomatoes be thoroughly ripe and let them lie in strong salt and water for three or four days; then put them down in layers in jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horse- radish; then pour on vinegar, cold, after having spiced it. Use plenty of spice, cover carefully, and let stand for a month before using. CHAPTER XVII. PRESERVES. Preserved Apples for Tea. AKMl ft nive syrup of sugar and water, and put in some small pieces of ginger root or the yellow of orange peel; have some good firm apples pared and halved — pippins are best — and when the syrup has boiled up three or four times and been skimmed, drop in the apples and cook until transparent, but they must not go to pieces. Let them be quite cold before eaten, and good cream greatly improves it. Apple Preserves. Take three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of apples; make a syrup of the sugar and water, and a little lemon juice or sliced lemon; skim off all scum and put a few apples at a time into the syrup and boil uniil they are transparent; skim out and put in a jar. When all are done, boil the syrup down thick; pour boiling hot over the apples and cover closely. Well-flavored fruit not easily broken should be selected. Apricot Preserves. Proceed the same as for preserving peaches, save that apricots, having a smooth, thin skin, do not require paring. Citron Preserves. Pare and take out the seeds and cut them in pieces one inch thick and two inches in length; weigh them and put into a preserving kettle and cook them until they are clear, or steam them, then 204 PRESERVES. 205 make a syrup of their weight in sugar with water and add two sliced lemons for each pound of fruit; put the citron into the syrup, a part at a time, and boil about fifteen minutes; skim out and put into a jar. When all has been thus cooked, boil the syrup down thick, and pour over it. Cover closely with paper which the air cannot penetrate, or use air-tight jars. Citron Preserves, No. 2. First, peel and cut the citron in pieces an inch square; then boil in water until soft; drain off the water and add one pound of sugar to each pound of citron; to every five pounds of the -preserve add one pound of raisins, one lemon sliced, half an ounce of white cloves, one ounce of stick cinnamon; dissolve the sugar, and when hot, add the fruit and simmer slowly for two hours. Currant .Preserves. Take ten pounds of currants and seven pounds of sugar; pick the stems from seven pounds of the currants and press the juice from the other three pounds; when the juice and sugar are made into a hot syrup, put in the currants and boil until thick and rich. Brandied Cherries or Berries. Make a syrup of a pound of sugar and a half gill of water for every two pounds of fruit. Heat to boiling, stirring to prevent burning, and pour over the fruit while warm — not hot. Let them stand together an hour; put all into a preserving kettle, and heat slowly; boil five minutes, take out the fruit with a perforated skim- mer, and boil the syrup twenty minutes. Add a pint of brandy for every five pounds of fruit; pour over the berries hot, and seal. Lemon Preserves. One pound of pounded loaf sugar, quarter pound of butter, six eggs and the whites of four, well beaten, the rind of two lemons, grated, and the juice of three. Mix together and let it simmer till of the consistency of honey. Be careful to stir all the time or it will burn. 206 PRESERVES. Preserved Oranges. Take any number of oranges, with, rather more than their weight in white sugar. Slightly grate the oranges and score them round and round with a knife, but do not cut very deep. Put them in cold water for three days, changing the water two or three times a day. Tie them up in a cloth, boil them until they are soft enough for the head of a pin to penetrate the skin. "While they are boiling place the sugar on the fire, with rather more than half a pint of water to each pound; let it boil for a minute or two, then strain it through muslin. Put the oranges into the syrup till it jellies and is a yellow color. Try the syrup by putting some to cool. It must not be too stiff. The syrup need not cover the oranges, but they must be turned, so that each part gets thoroughly done. Preserved Pine-Apple. Pare, cut into slices, take out the core of each one, and weigh, allowing pound for pound of sugar and fruit. Put in alternate layers in the kettle and pour in water, allowing a cup to each pound of sugar. Heat to a boil; take out the pine-apple and spread upon dishes in the sun. Boil and skim the syrup half an hour. Return the pine-apple to the kettle and boil fifteen minutes. Take it out, pack in wide-mouth jars, pour on the scalding syrup; cover to keep in the heat, and, when cold, tie up, first putting brandied tissue paper upon the top. To Preserve Plums or Cherries. Make a syrup of clean, brown sugar, and clarify it; when per- fectly clear and boiling hot, pour it over the plums, having picked out all the unsound ones and stems. Let them remain in the syrup two days, then drain it off; make it boiling hot, skim it, and pour it over again ; let them remain another day or two, then put them into a preserving kettle over the fire, and simmer gently until the syrup is reduced, and thick or rich. One pound of sugar to each pound of plums. Small damsons are very fine preserved, as are PRESERVES. 207 cherries, or any other ripe fruit. Clarify the syrup, and when hoiling hot, put in the plums; let them boil very gently until they are cooked, and the syrup rich. Put them in pots or jars the next day; secure as directed. Purple Plums Preserved. Take an equal weight of fruit and nice sugar. Take a clean stone jar and fill it with the fruit and sugar in layers. Cover them and set the jar in a kettle of water over the fire. Let them stand in the hoiling water all day, filling up the kettle as the water boils away. If at any time they seem likely to ferment, repeat this pro- cess. It is a simple 'and excellent way of preserving plums. To Preserve Pears. Pare them very thin, and simmer in a thin syrup; let them lie a day or two. Make the syrup richer and simmer again. Repeat this till they are clear; then drain and dry them in the sun or a coo' oven a little time; or they may be kept in the syrup and dried a* wanted, which makes them richer. Brandy Peaches. Drop the peaches in hot Avater, let them remain till the skin can be ripped off ; make a thin syrup, and let it cover the fruit; boil the fruit till they can be pierced with a straw; take it out, make a very rich syrup, and add, after it is taken from the fire, and while it is still hot, an equal quantity of brandy. Pour this, while it is still warm, over the peaches in the jar. They must be covered with it. Peach Preserves. Take any nice peaches that will not cook to pieces, pare them and take out the pits; take their weight in sugar, or, if they are to be canned, three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit, and a coffee-cup of water to each pound of sugar. Boil part of the pits in the water until the flavor is extracted, then remove the pits; add about as much water as has evaporated, then add the sugar; skim 208 PRESERVES. thoroughly, then add a small quantity of fruit at a time, cook slowly for about ten minutes, skim out into a jar, then add more. When all are done, pour the boiling syrup over them. The next day drain off the syrup and boil again and pour back; do the same for two or three days, then make them air-tight with paper as directed for jellies; or, if to be sealed in cans, the first boiling is sufficient. Cling stone peaches are preserved the same way, whole, except that they must be cooked longer. Quince Preserves. Pare and core the quinces, and cut into halves or quarters, as suits the size of your jars; let them stand over night in enough cold water to cover them; in the morning put them in the kettle with the same water and let them cook gently until you can just stick a fork-in them; take the fruit out with a skimmer, weigh it and to each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar; put the fruit and sugar into the kettle, with enough of the water to make a good syrup, and let them boil gently until they are clear; take out carefully with the skimmer and put into the jars; fill the jars to the top with the syrup. If there is a large quantity of fruit, and the kettle is not large, it is best to put the fruit in the syrup a little at a time. Preserving Strawberries. Select the largest and finest strawberries. Hull them, weigh and allow to each pound one pound of the best double refined loaf sugar finely powdered. Divide the sugar into two equal portions. Put a layer of strawberries into the bottom of a preserving kettle and cover them with a layer of sugar, until half the sugar is" in; next set the kettle over a moderate fire and let it boil till the sugar is melted; then put in, gradually, the remainder of the sugar, and, after it is all in, let it boil hard for five minutes, taking off the scum with a silver spoon; but there will be little or no scum if the sugar is of the very best quality. Afterwards remove the kettle from the fire and take out the strawberries very carefully in a spoon. Spread out the strawberries on large, flat dishes, so as not to touch each other, and PRESERVES. 209 set them immediately in a cold place or on ice. Hang the kettle again on the fire, and give the syrup one boil up, skimming it if necessary. Place a fine strainer over the top of a mug or pitcher, and pour the syrup through it. Then put the strawberries into glass jars or tumblers; pour into each an equal portion of the syrup. Lay at the top a round piece of white paper dipped in brandy. Seal the jars tightly. Raspberries may be preserved as above; also large ripe goose- berries. To each pound of gooseberries allow one and a half pounds sugar. Bury them in a box of sand, or keep in a dark, cool place. Green Tomato Preserves. Eight pounds small, green tomatoes; pierce each with a fork; seven pounds sugar, juice of four lemons, one ounce of ginger and mace mixed; heat all together slowly and boil until the fruit is clear; remove from kettle with skimmer and spread upon dishes to cool; boil the syrup thick; put the fruit in jars and cover with hot syrup. Ripe Tomato Preserves. Seven pounds round yellow or egg tomatoes, peeled, seven pounds sugar, juice of three lemons; let them stand together over night, drain off the syrup and boil it, skimming well; put in the tomatoes, and boil gently twenty minutes; take out the fruit with a perforated skimmer and spread upon dishes; boil the syrup down until it thickens, adding, just before taking it up, the juice of three lemons; put the fruit into the jars and fill up with hot syrup. When cold, seal up. Spiced Currants. Four quarts ripe currants, three pounds brown sugar, one pint cider vinegar, one tablespoonful each of allspice and cloves, and a ,itfcie nutmeg and cinnamon. Boil one hour, stirring occasionally. Spiced Gooseberries. Six quarts of gooseberries, ripe or green, nine pounds of sugar, one pint of vinegar (not too strong), one tablespoonful each of 14 210 PRESERVES. cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Put the berries in the kettle with half the sugar and a little water; boil an hour and a half. When nearly done, add the rest of the sugar; set it off the fire and add the spices and vinegar. Spiced Grapes. Five pounds of grapes, three of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of cin- namon and allspice, half teaspoonful of cloves; pulp grapes; boil until tender; cook pulps and strain through a sieve; add to it the spices, put in sugar, spices and vinegar to taste; boil thoroughly and cool. Spiced Nutmeg Melon. Select melons not quite ripe; open, scrape out the pulp, peel and slice; put the fruit in a stone jar, and, for five pounds of fruit take a quart of vinegar and two and a half pounds of sugar; scald vin- egar and sugar together, and pour over the fruit; scald the syrup and pour over the fruit for eight successive days. On the ninth, add one ounce of stick cinnamon, one of whole cloves, and one of allspice; scald fruit, vinegar and spices together, and seal up in jars. This pickle should stand two or three months before using. Blue plums are very nice prepared in this way. Spiced Peaches. Five pounds peaches, two of brown sugar, one quart vinegar, one ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace. Wipe the peaches and boil until done in the vinegar and sugar, then take out, put in spices, boil well and pour over. Spiced Plums. Spiced plums are delicious with cold meat. Cook the plums in a little water until they are soft; then, so far as possible, remove the stones, sweeten and spice to your taste, and boil until thick; put in large-mouthed bottles and seal, or can in the usual way. PRESERVES. 211 Spiced Plums, No. 2. Nine pounds blue plums, six pounds sugar, two quarts vinegar, one ounce cinnamon; boil vinegar, sugar and spice together, pour over plums, draw off next morning and boil; pour back on plums; repeat the boiling five mornings, the last time boiling the fruit about twenty minutes. CHAPTER XVIII. VEGETABLES. l-.lHE following excellent remarks on the cooking of vegetables are from the pen of Miss Corson: Spinach is an excellent dish when well cooked; take two quarts, wash, boil for two minutes in salted boiling water, drain, chop and heat in a trying-pan for two minutes with an ounce each. of buttei and flour; halt' a pint of meat broth is added, the com- pound is stirred and heated for five minutes, and served with small pieces of fried bread. Second only to spinach are beet, sprouts; we all know them boiled, but after they are boiled they gain in flavor by being fried for two or three minutes in butter. "New cabbage scalded for five minutes in fast boiling water, coarsely chopped, sprinkled with flour, salt and pepper, and gently stewed for five minutes with milk or cream enough to cover it, is good. So, too, is red cabbage sliced, thrown for fifteen minutes into scalding salted water and vinegar, then drained and fried five minutes with butter, and served with a little hot meat gravy. Let- tuce, which seems devoted to "salad days," is excellent stuffed; it is well washed in salted cold water, the roots trimmed off, two tablespoonfuls of cooked force-meat of any kind, or chopped cold meat highly seasoned, inclosed within the leaves, which are bound together with tape or strips of cloth; several heads thus prepared are placed in a saucepan, covered with broth or cold gravy well seasoned, and set over the tire to simmer about five minutes; the tapes are then removed and the lettuce heads and sauee are served hot. A link between cabbage and lettuce are Brussels sprouts. VEGETABLES. 818 those tender, baby cabbages, which, stowed in cream, or quickly fried in batter, almost inoline one's thoughts to vegetarianism, Beets are familiar enough boiled and sliced, either served hot with butter, pepper and salt, or piokled, but a novelty is a beet. pudding, made by mixing a pint of oooked Bugar beets, ohopped, with four eggs, a quart of milk, a little salt ami pepper, a table- spoonful of butter, ami baking them about half an hour. Cold boiled beets slieed and fried with butter are palatable; to cook them so that none o( their eolor shall be lost, carefully wash them without breaking the skin or OUtting off the roots or stalks, ami boil them until tender, about an hour, in boiling salted water. Turnips, either white or yellow, stewed in gravy, are oxoellont. Choose a quart of small, even size; peel them; boil fifteen minutes in well salted boiling water; drain them; put them into a frying-pan with suffioienl butter to prevent burning; brown them; stir in a tablespoonful of Hour; oover them with hot water; add a palatable seasoning of sail ami pepper, and stew them gently until tender. Or peel and eut them in small regular pieces; brown them over the tire with a little butter and a slight sprinkling ol' sugar; add salt ami pepper ami boiling water enough to OOVer them, and gently stew them until tender; serve them hot. Parsnips are not sufficiently appreciated, perhaps because o( their too sweet taste; but this can be overcome to a palatable extent by judicious cookery; they are excellent when sliced, after boiling, and Warmed in a sauce made by mixing Hour, butter and milk, over the fire, and seasoning it with salt and pepper; as soon as warm they are served with a little ohopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. For parsnips fried brown in an old-fashioned iron pot with slices o\' salt pork and a seasoning o( salt and pepper, several good ■words might be said. Carrots boiled ami mashed and warmed with butter, pepper and salt de8erve to be known; or sliced and quickly browned in butter; Or tossed for five minutes over the fire With chopped onion, parsley, butter, seasonings and sutlicient gravy to moisten them; or boiled. 214 VEGETABLES. quartered, heated with cream, seasoned, and, at the moment of serving, thickened with the yolk of eggs. , Onions are capital when sliced and quickly fried in plenty of smoking hot fat, or roasted whole until tender, and served with butter, pepper and salt; or chosen while still small, carefully peeled without breaking, browned in butter, and then simmered tender with just boiling water enough to cover them; or boiled tender in broth and then heated live minutes in nicely seasoned cream. Oyster plant, scraped under cold water, boiled tender in salted water containing a trace of vinegar, and then heated with a little highly seasoned melted butter, is excellent; the tender leaves which it often bears make a nice salad. Somewhat like oyster plant are Jerusalem artichokes, which are good and cheap in this market. Like oyster plant, they must be peeled under water, boiled tender, and then served with melted butter, or quickly browned in butter, either plain or with chopped herbs, or served with an acid sauce of any kind. Celery we know best in its uncooked state, but it is very good stewed in any brown or white gravy or sauce, or rolled in fritter batter and fried brown. Squash and pumpkin are very good either boiled, sliced, and broiled or fried, or made into fritters like oyster plant. Potatoes, most important of all hardy vegetables. Lives there a cook with soul so dead as not to be willing to expend all the powers of fire, water and salt to produce mealy potatoes ? If so, the writing of her epitaph would be a cheerful task. And if cold ones are left they can rehabilitate themselves in favor by appearing chopped, moistened with white sauce or cream, and either fried in butter or baked quickly, with a covering -of bread crumbs. Steam-fried, that is sliced raw, put into a covered pan over the fire, with butter and seasoning, and kept covered until tender, with only enough stirring to prevent burning, they are capital. To fry them Lyonnaise style they are cooled in their jackets to keep them whole, sliced about a quarter of an inch VEGETABLES. 215 thick, browned in butter with a little sliced onion, sprinkled with chopped parsley, pepper and salt, and served hot. Larded, they have bits of fat ham or bacon inserted in them, and are baked tender. Note well that the more expeditiously a baked potato is cooked and eaten the better it will be. Boiling is the ordinary mode of cooking vegetables. The rule is to throw them (whether the roots, flowers, foliage, or unripe seeds) into cold water, after trimming or other preparation; to let them lie there, if shriveled or drooping, until they have recovered their natural crispness; then to throw them into soft water, or, if hard water, made soft by the addition of a small pinch of carbonate of soda; to keep them boiling without the lid (with roots this is imma- terial, though it is one means of keeping greens a good color) ; to remove all scum as it rises; to cook them enough; and to take them up as soon as they are done through, instead of leaving them to seethe, and lose their natural juices in the water. To this there are exceptions. Peas and beans may be thrown into cold water when they are dried, but when green are best not thrown into cold water; and the former should be boiled in the least quantity of water possible. Potatoes requh-e different treat- ment, according to their kind and the soil in which they grew. Very mealy or large potatoes, if thrown into boiling water, will fall to pieces outside, while still raw in the center; while small, firm, or waxy varieties are best thrown into boiling salt water. If you buy of the grower, he will often tell you what treatment suits them. At any rate, an experiment both ways will soon settle the difficulty. But the qualities of potatoes vary, not only with soil and kind, but also with the period in the season. We have known potatoes, waxy and watery when first dug up, become light and floury in February and March, after the eyes have sprouted three or four inches. The reason is plain: Superabundant moisture had been drawn off, and the starch, which forms one of its component ele- ments, had had time to mature itself. 216 VEGETABLES. How to Cook Potatoes. It is well known that a good potato may be spoiled by bad cook- ing; and by good management a bad one may be rendered com- paratively good. In fact, no vegetable depends more on the cooking than a potato. In the first place, if the skin is taken off them before boiling, it should not be peeled, but scraped, for the follow- ing reasons: If peeled, it is reduced in size considerably; besides, the outside removed is the very best part of the root. An iron saucepan is preferable to a tin one for cooking them, as it prevents their boiling so fast; but the best way is, first to wash them very clean, then to put them on the fire with just cold water enough to cover them; when it has begun to boil, throw in a handful of salt, and add a pint of cold water, which checks their boiling and gives them time to be done through, without allowing them to crack. As soon as done, rather under than over, which may be ascertained with a fork, pour the water off from them, and replace the pan on the fire for a short time, until the remaining moisture is evaporated. If not immediately wanted, do not place the lid upon them, or the steam will be confined, but cover them with a cloth. New potatoes require great caution not to over-boil them, or they will be tasteless and watery. Artichokes (Jerusalem), Fried. Pare and cut the artichokes into slices about an eighth of an inch in thickness, and fry them in sufficient boiling oil or lard for them to swim in until they are a rich brown. Strew a little salt over them, pile high on a dish, and send to the table hot. They may also be peeled and cut pear-shaped and stewed in a little salt water, to which a little butter has been added, and used as a garnish for a dish of mashed potatoes. Asparagus, Boiled. Choose bunches of asparagus which have been cut fresh and the heads straight. If the cut end is brown and dry, and the heads bent on one side, the asparagus is stale. It may be kept a day or VEGETABLES. 217 two with the stalks in cold water, but is much better fresh. Scrape off the white skin from the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal length; let them lie in cold water until it is time to cook them; put a handful of salt into a gallon of water, and let it boil; tie the asparagus into bundles and put them into it; toast a slice of bread brown on each side, dip it in the water, and lay it on a dish. When the asparagus is sufficiently cooked, dish it on the toast, leaving the white ends outward each way. Serve with melted butter. Asparagus, Fricasseed. Wash twenty-five heads of asparagus, cut off the tender portion and lay them into cold water until they are required. Drain them and chop them with a young head of lettuce, half a head of endive and a small onion. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, melt it, then mix with it smoothly a dessert-spoonful of flour, and half a pint of stock. Add the chopped vegetables, with pepper and salt, and let all stew gently until the sauce is thick and good. Serve hot. Time to stew, half an hour. Egg Broccoli. Take half a dozen heads of broccoli, cut off the small shoots of blossoms and lay them aside for frying; trim the stalks short and pare off the rough rind up to the head; wash them well, and lay them in salt water for an hour; then put them into plenty of boil- ing water (salted) and let them boil fast till quite tender. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and stir it over a slow fire till it is melted; then add gradually six or eight well-beaten eggs, and stir the mixture until it is thick and smooth. Lay the broccoli in the center of a large dish, pour the egg around it, and having fried the broccoli blossoms, arrange them in a circle near the edge of the dish. Beets and Potatoes. One of the most delicious ways to serve these early vegetables is this: Take new potatoes and young beets, boil until done in sepa- rate kettles, then slice into the dish in which they are to be put on 218 VEGETABLES. the table; first put a layer of potatoes, sprinkled with pepper and salt and little lumps of butter, then a layer of beets, treated in the same way, and so on until the dish is full, then pour over all a very little sweet cream or milk. Lima Beans. Shell, wash, and put into boiling water with a little salt; when boiled tender, drain and season them, and either dress with cream or large lump of butter, and let simmer for a few moments. String Beans. Choose fine young beans, and be careful they are the right sort. The best kind is the case-knife, because they have no strings and need only to be broken in two and not cut. Should these not be obtainable take the youngest that can be procured; remove the thread or string that runs along the pod, then cut them in a slanting direction lengthwise in very thin slices, throw them into boiling water well salted, and to preserve their color boil without the lid of the saucepan, When tender, drain in a colander, put in a small piece of butter and a dash of pepper, and give the whole a shake. This dish may be varied in a great many ways and with great success. Cold beans, with oil and vinegar, make an excellent and refreshing salad. They may also, when cooked and drained, be mixed with some good brown gravy, and served alone as a course after the meat. Brussels Sprouts. Pick, trim, and wash a number of sprouts. Put them into plenty of fast boiling water; add a tablespoonful of salt, keep the sauce- pan uncovered and boil very fast for fifteen minutes. Drain as soon as done and serve with melted butter. Stewed Carrots. Scrape and boil whole forty-five minutes. Drain and cut into round slices a quarter of an inch thick. Put on a cup of weak broth — a little soup if you have it — and cook half an hour. Then VEGETABLES. 21?V add three or four tablespoonf uls of milk, a lump of butter rolled iu flour, with seasoning to taste. Boil up and dish. Celery. Wash, trim, and scrape the stalks, selecting those that are white and tender. Crisp by leaving in ice cold water until they are wanted for the table. Arrange neatly in a celery glass. Pas? between the oysters and the meat. Fried Celery. Boil the celery entire until tender; drain it, divide into small pieces and fry in dripping until lightly browned. Stewed Celery. Clean the heads thoroughly. Take off the coarse, green, outer leaves. Cut in small pieces, and stew in a little broth. When tender, add some rich cream, a little flour, and butter enough to thicken the cream. Season with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg if that is agreeable. Cream Cabbage. Beat together the yolks of two eggs, one-half cup of sugar, one- half cup of vinegar, butter size of an egg, salt and a little Cayenne pepper. Put the mixture into a saucepan and stir until it boils} then stir in one cup of cream; let it boil, and pour over the cabbage while hot. Cabbage a la Cauliflower. Cut the cabbage fine as for slaw; put it into a stewpan, cover with water and keep closely covered; when tender, drain off the water; put in a small piece of butter with a piece of salt, one-half a cup of cream, or one cup of milk. Leave on the stove a few minutes before serving. Boiled Cabbage. Cut off the stalk, remove the faded and outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cabbages; wash them thoroughly and lay 220 VEGETABLES. them for a few minutes in water, to which a tahlespoonful of vin- egar has been added, to draw out any insects that may be lodging under the leaves. Drain them in a colander; have ready a large pan of boiling hot water, with a tahlespoonful of salt and a small piece of soda in it, and let the cabbage boil quickly until tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. Take them up as soon as they are done, di'ain them thoroughly and serve. Time to boil: young sum- mer cabbages, from ten to fifteen minutes; large cabbages, half an hour or more. Baked Cabbage. Cook as for boiled cabbage, after which drain and set aside until cold. Chop fine, add two beaten eggs, a tahlespoonful of butter, pepper, salt, three tablespoonfuls rich cream; stir well and bake in a buttered dish until brown. Eat hot. Hot Slaw. One small, firm head of cabbage, shred fine, one cup of vinegar, one tahlespoonful of butter, one tahlespoonful of sugar, two table- spoonfuls of sour cream, one-half teaspoonful of made mustard, one saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of salt. Put the vinegar and all the other ingredients for the dressing, except the cream, in a saucepan and heat to a boil; pour scalding hot over the cabbage; return to the saucepan, and stir and toss until all is smoking again; take from the fire, stir in the cream, turn into a covered dish and set in hot water ten minutes before you send to the table. Cauliflower. This favorite vegetable should be cut early, while the dew is still upon it; choose those that are close and white, and of medium size. Whiteness is a sign of quality and freshness. Great care should be taken that there are no caterpillars about the stalk, and to insure this, lay the vegetable with its head downward in cold salt and water for an hour before boiling it; or, better still, in cold vinegar and water. Trim away the outer leaves, and cut the stalks quite close. Cauliflowers are in season from the middle of June till the middle of November. VEGETABLES. 221 Cauliflower a la Francaise. After preparing as above, cut the cauliflower into quarters and put into a stewpan and boil until tender; drain and arrange it neatly on a dish. Pour over it melted butter. Cauliflower with Stuffing. Take a saucepan the exact size of the dish intended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, white cauliflower and cut it into sprigs; throw those into boiling salt water for two minutes; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downwards, in the saucepan, the bottom of which must have been previously covered with thin slices of bacon; fill up the vacant spaces with a stuffing made of three tablespoonfuls of finely minced veal, the same of beef suet, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a little pepper and salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of minced chives, and a dozen small mushrooms, chopped fine. Strew these ingredients over the cauliflowers in alternate layers, and pour over them three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked, add sufficient nicely-flavored stock to cover the whole; simmer gently till the cauliflowers are tender, and the sauce very much reduced; then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savory mixture. Cauliflower with. Sauce. Boil a large cauliflower — tied in netting — in hot salted water, from twenty-five to thirty minutes; drain, serve in a deep dish with the flower upwards and pour over it a cup of drawn butter in ■which has been stirred the juice of a lemon and a half teaspoonful of French mustard, mixed up well with the sauce. Corn, for Winter Use. Cut the corn from the cob (raw) before it gets too hard; to each gallon of cut corn add two scant cups of salt, pack tightly in a jar (don't be afraid of getting the jar too large), cover with a white cloth, put a heavy weight to keep the corn under the brine which 222 VEGETABLES. soon forms; now the most important part is to wash the cloth every morning for two weeks, or the corn will taste queerly. If the corn is too salty, freshen before cooking. This is as good as canned corn, and is much easier put up. Put tomatoes in jugs and seal with good corks and sealing wax; get a large funnel, and you can put up as fast and as much as you please. Baked Corn. Grate one dozen ears sweet corn; one cup milk, small piece but- ter; salt, and bake in pudding dish one hour. Green Corn on the Cob. Take off the outside leaves and the silk, letting the innermost leaves remain on until after the corn is boiled, which renders the corn much sweeter. Boil for half an hour in plenty of water, drain, and, after removing \he leaves, serve. Corn Oysters. Eight ears of sweet corn, grated; two cups of milk, three eggs, salt and pepper; flour enough to make a batter. Put a tablespoon- ful of butter into a frying pan and drop the mixture into the hot butter — a spoonful in a place; brown on both sides. Serve hot for breakfast or as a side dish for dinner. Stewed Corn. Stew one quart of canned corn in its own liquor, setting the vessel containing it in an outer one of hot water; should the corn be dry, add a little cold water; when tender, pour in enough milk to cover the corn, bring to a boil, and put in a tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour, and salt to taste. Stew gently, stirring well,' three or four minutes and turn into a deep dish. Keep the vessel containing the corn closely covered while it is cooking; the steam facilitates the process and preserves the color of the corn. Stewed Cucumbers. Cut the cucumbers fully half an inch thick right through; put VEGETABLES. 223 them in a saucepan, just covering them with hot water, and let them hoil slowly for a quarter of an hour, or until tender, but not so as to break them; then drain them; you want now a pint of good cream, and put your cream, with a teaspoonful of butter, in a saucepan, and when it is warm put in the cucumbers; season with a little salt and white pepper, cook five minutes, shaking the saucej)an all the time, and serve hot. It is just as delicate as asparagus, and a very nice dish indeed. Celery. This vegetable imparts an agreeable and peculiar flavor to soups, sauces, etc. It is generally eaten raw, the brittle stalks with salt; but there are many ways in which it may be nicely prepared, and Avhen cooked it is more digestible and equally palatable. When the roots are not to be had, the pounded seed is an excellent sub- stitute for flavoring. It is in season from October to February, and is better when it has been touched by the frost. Fried Celery. Cold boiled celery will answer for this purpose. Split the heads and dip them into clarified butter, or dip them into a batter, and fry a light brown. Garnish the dish prettily with parsley. Carrots. This vegetable should be served with boiled beef. When the carrots are young they should be washed and rubbed, not scraped, before cooking, then rubbed with a clean, coarse cloth after boiling. Young carrots need to be cooked about half an hour, and full grown ones from one hour and a half to two hours. They are excellent for flavoring, and contain a great amount of nourishment. Carrots Boiled. Wash and prepare the carrots. Throw them into plenty of boiling water with salt. Keep them boiling till tender, and serve with melted butter; or they may be boiled with beef and a few placed round the dish to garnish, and the rest sent to table in a tureen. 224 VEGETABLES. Dandelions. Cut off the leaves, pick over carefully, wash thoroughly, put into boiling water and boil a half hour; drain well and put into salted boiling water and boil till tender. When done drain in a colander, season with butter, salt and pepper; or they may be boiled with gait pork or corned beef, omitting the butter. They are good from early spring until they blossom. Endive Stewed. Strip off the outer green leaves from the heads of endive. Wash thoroughly, soak in salted water to dislodge the insects; then drain and boil for twenty-five minutes in water salted slightly. Have ready a stewpan with an ounce of butter, drain the endive and put it into the pan, and add a saltspoonful of salt, pepper, and a gill of cream. Serve hot. Egg Plant. Pare and cut in slices half an inch thick; sprinkle with salt; cover and let stand for an hour. Rinse in clear cold water; wipe each 6lice dry; dip first in beaten egg, then in rolled cracker or bread crumbs. Season with pepper and salt, and fry brown in butter. • Egg Plant, No. 2. Boil until quite tender, then mash and add bread crumbs, pepper, gait, onions and butter or lard; put in a pan and bake until brown. You can put in all these things to your own taste, then you can boil and mash as before; season with salt and pepper, and add a little flour or meal as you like best. Make into little cakes and fry. These are nice. They should be picked when full grown, but before they are ripe. Fricasseed Egg Plant. Having peeled and sliced the egg plants, boil them in water with a saltspoonful of salt, until they are thoroughly cooked. Drain off the water, pour in sufficient milk to cover the slices, and add a few VEGETABLES. 225 bits of butter rolled in flour; let it simmer gently, shaking the pan over the fire till the sauce is thick, and stir in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs just before it is served. Stuffed Egg Plants. Halve and pai-boil. When soft enough to stick with a fork remove from the water and let cool. Then cut out the inside, being careful not to break the skin. Next take bread that has been previously soaked in water. Squeeze as dry as possible and mix with the pulp of the vegetable. Add to that a good sized tomato, the juice of an onion, a little parsley and two or three eggs, season with pepper and salt, and the filling is ready for use. Before putting into the stove sprinkle with toasted bread crumbs. An- other and quicker way to make the stuffing is to mix the pulp with the juice of an onion, a tomato and a couple of eggs. Thicken with boiled rice and season to taste. Garlic. Garlic requires to be used most judiciously, or it will spoil what- ever is cooked with it. If used carefully, however, it will impart a most delicious flavor to salads and sauces; but it is so strong that, for many dishes, all that is necessary is to rub the dish which is to be sent to table sharply round with a slice of it; or, better still, to rub it on a crust of bread, and put the bread into the soup, etc., for a few minutes. A very general prejudice exists against garlic, probably on account of its being used in the same way as an onion. If it is desired to diminish the strength of the flavor, this may be done by boiling the garlic in two or three waters. Greens, Stewed. Take a bunch of fresh greens, wash in several waters; drain them well and throw them into plenty of fast boiling water, salted and skimmed, and boil them for ten minutes. Take them up, press the water from them, and throw them into cold water for half an hour: drain them, cover with stock, and add a bunch of herbs, an onion. 15 226 VEGETABLES. one clove, a slice of fat bacon, and a little pepper and salt. Stew very gently until tender. Serve with mutton, lamb, or veal. Horse-radish as Garnish. Wash and scrub the horse-radish thoroughly; let it lie for an hour in cold water; their scrape it very finely with a sharp knife; arrange it in little bunches around the dish, or, if there is gravy with the meat, put it in a small glass dish near the carver. Lettuce. There are two ports of lettuces, the cabbage and the cos. They /re chiefly used for salad, but may be also boiled or stewed, and nerved as a vegetable. They may be had all the year, but are in full season from April to September. Lettuce, Stuffed. Wash four or five large heads of lettuce; boil them in plenty of salt and water for fifteen minutes; throw them at once into cold water, and afterwards let them drain. Open them, fill them with joDod veal forcemeat, tie the ends securely, and put them into a stewpan with as much good gravy as will cover them, a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Simmer gently for another fifteen minutes, remove the strings, place them on a hot dish, and pour the gravy around them. Macaroni. Three long sticks of macaroni, broken in small pieces; soak in a pint of milk two hours; grate bread and dried cheese. Put a layer of macaroni in a padding dish; add pepper, salt and butter; then sprinkle the bread and cheese crumbs over it, and so continue until the dish is filled. Bake until brown. Macaroni as a Vegetable. Simmer one-half pound of macaroni in plenty of water till tender, but not broken; strain off the water. Take the yolks of five and ihe whites of two eggs, one-half pint of cream, white meat and ham VEGETABLES. 22^ chopped very fine, three spoonfuls of grated cheese; season with salt and pepper; heat all together, stirring constantly. Mix with the macaroni; put into a buttered mold and steam one hour. Macaroni with Oysters. Boil macaroni in salt water, after which draw through a colander; take a deep earthen dish or tin; put in alternate layers of macaroni and oysters; sprinkle the layers of macaroni with grated cheese; bake until brown. Macaroni with Tomatoes. Boil one-half pound of macaroni till tender, pour off all the water, then add one-half cup sweet cream, one-third of a cup of butter, pepper and salt; let simmer for a short time, but be careful that it does not become much broken; turn into vegetable dish; have ready one pint stewed tomatoes, season with butter, salt and pepper, pour over the macaroni. Stewed Macaroni. Boil two ounces of macaroni in water, and drain Avell; put into a saucepan one ounce of butter, mix with one tablespoonful of flour, moisten with four tablespoonf uls of veal or beef stock, one gill of cream, salt and white pepper to taste; put in the macaroni, let it boil up, and serve while hot. Boiled Onions. Skin them thoroughly. Put them to boil; when they have boiled a few minutes, pour off the water and add clean cold water, and set them to boil again. Pour this away, and add more cold water, when they may boil till done. This will make them white and clear, and very mild in flavor. After they are done, pour off all the water, and dress with a little cream ; salt and pepper to taste. Boil in two waters, drain, and if they are large, cut into quarters and pour over them a cup of scalding milk in which a pinch of soda has been stirred; set over the fire, add a tablespoonful of buttor, half teaspoonful corn starch wet with milk, a little minced parsley, with pepper and salt. Simmer and pour out. 228 VEGETABLES. Boiled Okba. Put the young and tender pods of long, white okra into salted boiling water in a porcelain or tin-lined saucepan (as iron discolors it), boil fifteen minutes, take off stems, and serve with butter, pepper, salt and vinegar if p referred; or, after boiling, slice in rings, season with butter, dip in batter and fry; season and serve; or stew an equal quantity of tomatoes and tender sliced okra, and one or two sliced green peppers; stew in porcelain kettle fifteen or twenty minutes, season with butter, pepper and salt and serve.. Onion Ormoloo. Peel ten or twelve large wbite onions, steep them an hour in cold water, then boil them soft. Mash them witb an equal quantity of boiled white potatoes, adding half a pint of milk and two or three well-beaten eggs. Stir the mixture very hard, season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and bake it in a quick oven; when half done pour a little melted butter or gravy over the top. Scalloped Onions. Boil till tender six large onions; afterward separate them with a large spoon; then place a layer of onion and a layer of grated bread crumbs alternately in a pudding dish; season with pepper and salt to taste; moisten with milk; put into the oven to brown. Wash but do not peel the onions; boil one hour in boiling water slightly salt, changing the water twice in the time; when tender, drain on a cloth, and roll each in buttered tissue paper, twisted at the top, and bake an hour in a slow oven. Peel and brown them; 6erve with melted butter. Vegetable Oyster. One bunch of oysters; boil and mash. One pint sour milk, half a teaspoonful soda; flour to make a batter; add two eggs, beaten,, and the oysters. Fry in hot lard — drop in spoonfuls. VEGETABLES. 229 Mock Stewed Oysters. One bunch oyster plant, eight teaspocnfuls butter, a little flour or corn starch, vinegar and water for boiling, pepper and salt, one- half cup milk. Wash and scrape the oyster plant very carefully; drop into weak vinegar and water, bring quickly to a boil, and cook ten minutes; turn off the vinegar water; rinse the salsify in boiling water; throw this out and cover with more from the tea-kettle; stew gently ten minutes longer; add pepper and salt and two tablespoon- fuls of butter; stew in this until tender. Meanwhile heat in a farina kettle the mfflc, thicken, add the remaining butter, and keep dry until the salsify is done, then transfer it to this sauce; pepper and salt; let all lie together in the inner kettle, the water in the outer at a slow boil, for five minutes; pour into a covered dish. Parsley. The foliage of parsley is of use in flavoring soups, etc.; it U nutritious and stimulating. Crisp Parsley. This is used for garnishing dishes. Pick and wash young parsley, shake it in a cloth to dry it thoroughly, and spread it on a sheet of clean paper and put in the oven. Turn the bunches frequently until they are quite crisp. Parsley is much more easily crisped than fried. Parsley, Fried. Wash and dry the parsley thoroughly; put it into hot fat and let it remain until it is crisp; take it out immediately and drain it in a •colander. If the parsley is allowed to remain in the fat one moment after it is crisp it will be spoiled. Parsley is best fried in a frying basket. Parsnips. Parsnips may be dressed in the same way as carrots, which they 1 very much resemble. When boiled, they are generally served with boiled meat, or boiled salt fish; when fried, with roast mutton. If 230 VEGETABLES. young, they require only to be washed and scraped before they are boiled. If old and large, the skin must be pared off, and the roots cut into quarters. Carrots and parsnips are often sent to the table together It should be remembered that parsnips are more quickly boiled than carrots. Fried Parsnips. Boil until tender in hot water slightly salted; let them get almost cold, scrape off the skin, and cut in thick, long slices; dredge with flour and fry in hot dripping, turning as they brown; drain very dry in a hot colander; pepper and salt to serve. Parsnip Stew. Three slices of salt pork, boil one hour and a half; scrape five large parsnips, cut in quarters lengthwise, add to the pork and let boil one-half hour, then add a few potatoes, and let all boil together until the potatoes are soft; the fluid in the kettle should be about a cupful when ready to take off. Canned Pease. Open a can of pease an hour before cooking them, that there may be no musty, airless taste about them, and turn into a bowl. When ready for them, put on a farina-kettle — or one saucepan within another — of hot water. If dry, add cold water to cover them, and stew about twenty-five minutes; drain, stir in a generous lump of butter; pepper and salt. French Way of Cooking Pease. Put your pease in a nice dish, where they will not turn black in cooking. Cut up fine one small head of lettuce; put in a few sprigs of parsley, tied up; salt and pepper; enough of water to cover the pease. Cook gently until tender, one and three-quarters of an hour, then drain off most of the water; dissolve one full teaspoonful of flour in water and stir in; add one-half tablespoonful of butter, one-half cup of sweet milk and one lump of sugar; cook about ten minutes; just before serving stir in one yolk of an egg, previously beaten with a little water. VEGETABLES. 231 No. 2. — Put some thin slices of bacon in a skillet and brown a little on both sides; then put in your pease, with one large onion cut in four, one head of lettuce, and a few sprigs of parsley, tied up, water enough to cover them; salt and pepper (not much salt, as the bacon salts them); cook one hour. Ten minutes before serving sprinkle a little flour to thicken the gravy. Remove the bunch of lettuce and parsley. Green Pease. Boil a quart of young, freshly-gathered pease in slightly salted water until they are tender; then drain them in a colander. Melt two ounces of fresh butter over the fire, mix smoothly with a dessert- spoonful of flour, and add very gradually a cup of thick cream, or, failing this, use new milk. When the sauce boils, put in the pease, stir them until they are quite hot, and serve immediately. Potato Balls. Bake the potatoes, mash them very nicely, make them into balls, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and put them in the oven or before the fire to brown. These balls may be varied by the introduction of a third portion of grated ham or tongue. Browned Potatoes. While the meat is roasting, and an hour before it is served, boil the potatoes and take off their skins; flour them well, and put them under the meat, taking care to dry them from the drippings before they are sent to the table. Kidney potatoes are best dressed in this way. The flouring is very essential. They should always be boiled a little before being put into stews, as the first water in which they are cooked is thought to be of a poisonous quality. Potatoes when boiled, if old, should be peeled and put whole upon the gridiron until nicely browned. English: Potato Balls. Boil some potatoes very dry; mash them as smoothly as possible; season well with salt and pepper; warm them, with an ounce of 232 VEGETABLES. butter to every pound of potatoes, and a few spoonfuls of good cream; let them cool a little, roll them into balls; sprinkle over them some crushed vermicelli or macaroni, and fry them a light brown. Southern Baked Potatoes. Parboil, or take the cold ones left over from dinner; place in a deep pie pan; between each layer sprinkle sugar; over the top drop small drops of butter and more sugar, about one small cup of sugar and one spoonful of butter to a plate of potatoes. Then pour over all one-half cup of butter and set in oven to bake. The common pumpkin is delicious prepared in the same way, using, instead of sugar, syrup or molasses. The pumpkin must be thoroughly steamed before baking, and requires two hours' baking. Some cooks add spice. Cream Potatoes. Pare and cut the potatoes into small squares or rounds, cook twenty minutes in boiling water and a little salt. Turn this off, add a cup of milk, and when this bubbles up a tablespoonful of butter, with a teaspoonful of water, wet up with cold milk; also a little chopped parsley; simmer five minutes and pour out. Potato Croquettes. Take six boiled potatoes, pass them through a sieve; add to them three tablespoonfuls of ham grated or minced finely, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste, and some chopped parsley; work into this mixture the yolks of three or four eggs, then fashion it into the shape of balls, roll them in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard, and serve with fried parsley. Potato Cake. Take potatoes, mashed ones are best, but boiled ones can be mashed, immediately after dinner, before getting too cold; add about an equal amount of flour and a small piece of butter or lard; rub thoroughly together, roll out and cut as for biscuit — not too thick — and bake in a rather quick oven. "When done to a light brown, cut open, butter and eat warm. VEGETABLES. 233 Fried Potatoes. Take cold boiled potatoes, grate them, make them into flat cakes, and fry them in butter. You may vary these cakes by dipping them in the beaten yolk of an egg and rolling the;n iD bread crumbs, frying them in boiling lard. Fried Potatoes, No. 2. Raw potatoes, peel, cut in rings the thickness of a shilling, or cut in one continuous shaving; throw them into cold water until you have sufficient; drain on a cloth; fry quickly in plenty of hot fat, and with as little color as possible; dry them well from the grease, and sprinkle with salt. When nicely done, and piled up properly, they make a fine side dish, which is always eaten with great relish. Or cut a potato lengthwise the size and shape of the divisions of an orange, trim them neatly and fry them; they are an excellent garnish for meat. Cold potatoes may be cut in slices somewhat less than an inch thick, and fried in like manner. They can also be fried Avith onions, as an accompaniment to pork chops, sliced cod, red herring, or with a rasher of bacon. Another nice way is to boil them and let them become cold, then cut them into rather thin slices. Put a lump of fresh butter into a stewpan, add a little flour, about a teaspoonf ul for a moderate-sized dish ; when the flour has boiled a short time in the butter add a cup of water and a little cream; boil all together; then put in the potatoes covered with chopped parsley, pepper and salt; stew them for a few minutes, an serve it is to put a bit of the bacon in each dish. Hard-boiled eggs, sliced when cold, are also liked with the greens. Cream of Spinach. Take the leaves of spinach — no stalks — wash thoroughly; put them into enough salt boiling water to cover them. When boiled tender, take them out and put them into cold water to fix the fresh green color. Let them remain until cold and then rub them through a colander with a potato-masher. The spinach is then ready for table use. Winter Squash. Pare, cut up and cook soft in boiling water and a little salt. Drain, mash smooth, pressing out all the water; work in butter, pepper and salt, and mound in a deep dish. Stuffed Squash. Pare a small squash and cut off a slice from the top; extract the seeds and lay one hour in salt water; then fill with a good stuffing of crumbs, chopped salt pork, parsley, etc., wet with gravy; put on the top slice; set the squash in a pudding dish; put a few spoonfuls of melted butter and twice as *nuch hot water in the bottom; cover 238 VEGETABLES. che dish very closely and set in the oven two hours or until tender; lay within a deep dish and pour the gravy over it. Turnips. Pare and cut 'into pieces; put them into boiling water well salted, and boil until tender; drain thoroughly, and then mash and add a piece of butter, pepper and salt to taste, and a small teaspoonful of sugar. Stir until they are thoroughly mixed, and serve hot. Mashed Turnips. Pare, quarter and cook tenderly in boiling water; a little salt. Mash and press in a heated colander; work in butter, pepper and salt; heap smoothly in a deep dish and put pepper on top. Tomatoes a la Cream. Pare and slice ripe tomatoes — one quart of fresh ones or a pound can; stew until perfectly smooth, season with salt and pepper, and add a piece of butter the size of an egg; just before taking from the fire, stir in one cup of cream, with a tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth in a part of it; do not let it boil after the flour is put in. Have ready in a dish pieces of toast; pour the tomatoes over this and serve. Browned Tomatoes. Take large round tomatoes and halve them, place them, the skin side down, in a frying-pan in which a very small quantity of butter and lard have been previously melted, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and dredge well with flour. Place the pan on a hot part of the fire, and let them brown thoroughly; then stir, and let them brown again, and so on until they are quite done. They lose their acidity, and their flavor is superior to stewed tomatoes. Baked Tomatoes. One can of tomatoes, stale bread crumbed fine, one tablespoonful of butter, pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, and white sugar. Drain off two-thirds of the liquor from the tomatoes (the rest can VEGETABLES. 239 be saved for to-morrow's soup). Cover the bottom of a bake-dish with crumbs; lay the tomatoes evenly upon this bed; seas'on with pepper,, salt, sugar, and parsley, with bits of butter here and there. Strew bread crumbs over all, a thicker layer than at the bottom ; put tiny pieces of butter upon this and bake, covered, about thirty-live minutes. Take off the cover and brown upon the upper shelf of the oven. Do not let it stay there long enough to get dry. Baked Tomatoes, No. 2. Cut in slices good fresh tomatoes (not too ripe) ; put a layer of them in a dish suitable for baking; then a layer of bread crumbs over them, salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, another layer of tomatoes, and so on until the dish is full. Bake one hour. Broiled Tomatoes. Cut large tomatoes in two, crosswise ; put on gridiron, cut surface down; when well seared, turn, and put butter, salt and pepper on,, and cook with skin-side down until done. Fried Tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes in slices without skinning; pepper and sa' *; them; then sprinkle a little flour over them and fry in butter untd brown. Put them on a hot platter and pour milk or cream into the butter and juice. When boiling hot, pour over the tomatoes Scalloped Tomatoes. Butter an earthen dish, then put in a layer of fresh tomatoes, sliced and peeled, and a few rinds of onion (one large onion for the whole dish), then cover with a layer of bread crumbs, with a little butter, salt and pepper. Repeat this process until the dish is full. Bake for an hour in a pretty hot oven. Stuffed Tomatoes. Choose a dozen large, round tomatoes; cut them off smooth at the stem end; take out the seeds and pulp; take a pound of lean steak and two slices of bacon; chop them fine, with the inside of 240 VEGETABLES. the tomatoes; season with a finely-chopped onion, fried, a desserts spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of white pepper, as much Cayenne pepper as you can take on the end of a knife and a table- spoonful of finely-chopped parsley; add four rolled crackers, and if too stiff, thin with stock, water or cold gravy; fill the tomatoes with this forcemeat, packing tight; sift cracker crumbs over the top, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. French Batter for Frying Vegetables. Moisten a little flour with water, and add to it a small quantity of salt, a tablespoonf ul of olive oil, and a spoonful and a half of French brandy. Beat up the mixture thoroughly, and, when you are ready to use it, beat into it the white of an egg previously beaten to a strong froth. This batter may be used for frying sweet entremets, in which case sugar must be used instead of salt. Rules for Cooking Them. Green vegetables should be thoroughly washed in cold water and then dropped into water that has been salted and is beginning to boil. There should be a tablespoonf ul of salt to each two quarts of water. If the water boils long before the vegetables are put in, it has lost all its gases, and the mineral ingredients are deposited on the bottom and sides of the kettle, so that the water is flat and tasteless, then the vegetables will not look well or have a fine flavor. The time for boiling green vegetables depends much upon the age and time they have been gathered. The younger and more freshly gathered the more quickly they are cooked. Below is a very good time-table for cooking vegetables: Potatoes boiled, thirty minutes. Potatoes baked, forty-five minutes. Sweet potatoes boiled, fifty minutes. Sweet potatoes baked, sixty minutes. Squash boiled, twenty-five minutes. Green pease boiled, twenty to forty minutes. Shelled beans boiled, sixty minutes. VEGETABLES. 241 String beans boiled, one to two hours. Green corn, thirty to sixty minutes. Asparagus, fifteen to thirty minutes. Spinach, one to two hours. Tomatoes, fresh, one hour. Tomatoes, canned, thirty minutes. Cabbage, forty-five minutes to two hours. Cauliflower, one or two hours. Dandelions, two or three hours. Beet greens, one hour. Onions, one or two hours. Beets, one to five hours. Turnips, white, forty-five to sixty minutes. Turnips, yellow, one and a half to two hours Parsnips, one or two hours, Carrots, one or two hours. 16 CHAPTER XIX. FISH. 4|iilSH, when considered with reference to the nourishment which 2kp\ they contain, appear to rank between animals and vegetables. ^Ijf) When fish is consumed as the principal article of food, larger quantities are required than when meat is used, owing to the smaller amount of nourishment that it contains. From this cause, and, also, because fish is so much more easily digested than meat, food is required much sooner after a meal of fish than when animal food is taken. Owing to its greater digestibility than meat, fish is better adapted to invalids, more especially as it does not produce feverish- ness like meat diet. The most digestible kinds of fish are those with white flesh, such as the cod, turbot, sole, whiting, haddock and flounder, the flesh of all these presenting a whitish appearance. Of the fish just men- tioned, the whiting, haddock and flounder are easiest of digestion. The flesh of fish when in good condition is always fleshy and opaque; when it is of a bluish color, or appears slightly transparent after being boiled, it proves either that the fish is out of season, or of inferior quality. Sometimes fish have been found to exert a poisonous action on the system, producing headache, giddiness, and an eruption on the skin resembling that produced by being stung with nettles. In some cases, even death has been caused by this means. Although it may be true in some cases, that the ill effects produced by fish may be due to the bad condition of health in which the patient happens to be at the time, yet in most cases it can only be attrib- 242 FISH. 243 uted to some poisonous principle developed in the fish. This may be due to their being eaten in a season when the fish is out of health, and, therefore, unfit for food, or it may be produced by the poison- ous nature of the food on which the fishes lived. Oysters, when fresh and in season, are very nutritious; when, however, they have a bluish appearance, they are liable to produce affections of the bowels. Salmon contains much nourishment, which is due to the oily matter which its flesh contains; and for this reason this fish is less suited for invalids than the white kind. Most kinds of fish lose their flavor soon after being taken from the water. The cod and one or two others are exceptions to this general rule. Fish are fresh when the eyes are clear, the fins stiff, the gills red, and without bad odor. Fresh shad have gills of quite a crimson red, bright scales and a firm body; and shad are unfit to eat when the gills are a whitish blue and the eyes are sunken. In a good salmon, when cut, the flesh should appear quite red, solid and flaky. The Dutch and French bleed the cod, which accounts for the better quality and whiteness of their codfish. All large fish, in fact, should be bled as soon as caught. Almost every kind of fish is either boiled, broiled or fried. Any small fish of the size of a smelt, or smaller, is better fried than pre- pared in any other way. Fish like salmon trout are best when baked and some fine sauce poured over them. A cup of diluted cream, in which is stirred two tablespoonf uls of melted butter and a little chopped parsley, makes an excellent sauce for salmon trout. Bass weighing from one-half pound to a pound are best fried; those weighing from one to three pounds are best broiled, and larger sizes are best when boiled. Very large bass are dry eating. They should be thoroughly cleansed, washed, and sprinkled with salt. Before broiling fish, rub the gridiron with a piece of fat, to pre- vent its sticking. Lay the skin side down first. The earthy taste often found in fresh-water fish can be removed by soaking in salt and water. 244 pish Most kinds of salt fish should be soaked in cold water for twenty- four hours — the fleshy side turned down in the water. Baked Fish. Stuff it with plain dressing; put in a pan with a little water; salt, pepper, and butter. Baste while baking. A fish weighing four pounds will cook in an hour. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs and parsley, and serve with drawn butter or egg sauce. To Boil Fish. Sew them in a cloth, and put in cold water, with plenty of salt. Most fish will boil in thirty minutes. Boiled Fish. For four or five pounds of fish, nearly cover with water, and add two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt. Boil thirty minutes and serve with drawn butter. Baked Black Fish. Rub a handful of salt over the surface, to remove the slimfl pecu- liar to the fish. For the stuffing, two ounces of beef drippings, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and one ounce of salt pork; put in a saucepan and fry brown; then add a teaspoonful of chopped capers, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt, five ounces of bread, and one gill of broth; then stir until scalding hot; place inside the fish; cut a quarter of a pound of pork in thin slices and lay on either side of the fish, holding in place by twine around it — a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper completing it for the baking pan. Bake in a -hot oven one-half hour, and serve on slices of fried bread with a sauce made of stock seasoned with one tablespoonful each of walnut and Worcestershire sauce, one tablespoonful of chopped capers, and one tablespoonful of parsley. Brook Trout. If small, fry them with salt pork; if large, boil, and serve with drawn butter. FISH. 245 Flounders. These may be boiled or stewed; but we hold that they never do themselves so much credit as when making their appearance really well fried. Halibut. Of all flat fish, a halibut is the largest, measuring sometimes about seven feet in length, and weighing from three hundred to four hundred pounds. In its proportions, the halibut is rather longer than other flat fish. The flesh has not much flavor, but is light and wholesome. To boil halibut plain, after scaling the skin on both sides, salt it for six hours, and (unless the piece is very large) plunge it in boiling water. The time of boiling, of course, will depend on the size. Serve, accompanied by white sauce made with milk instead of water, liberally dosed with butter and slightly seasoned with salt and a small pinch of scraped horse-radish. Shrimp or anchovy sauce goes well with it. "Where there are the means and skill of frying well, halibut, cut into steaks of the proper thickness, and so prepared, is both sightly and palatable garnished with fried parsley. Some well-buttered sauce is desirable, to obviate its natural dryness. Slices from the middle of a halibut may be divided and trussed into convenient sized cutlets, by cutting them into equal halves directly through the vertebra. The same plan may be adopted with slices from the thick part of other large fish (cod, over-sized pike, and salmon), which it is customary to dress as steaks. We have never heard or read of halibut being in any way served whole. Perch, Eels and Small Pike Are excellent fried. Potted Eels. After cleaning your eels and cutting off their heads, cut them into pieces about two inches long. Put them into a brown earthen pot, to which, if there is not an earthen cover, have a tin one. Season them with salt, pepper, allspice, and a few sprigs of parsley 946 fish. and thyme. Pouroverthe ools a little more vinegar and wain than will oover them; put on the lid and set the pot into a slow oven. They should not bo too much done. As soon as the flesh will oome away from the bones they are done enough, Herrings may ho pot tod in the samo way. Collared Eels. Those, though a little more trouble than potted ools, make a very good and handsome dish. For this, the larger the ools the better; quite small ools ean hardly ho collared. Clean the ool, out off the head, open it on the under side the whole of its length, wash it, take out the backbone, tearing the flesh as little as possible. Dry it by pressing it with a coarse doth. You will then have a tlat strip of ool flesh, broad at one end and narrow at the other. Season the inner surfaee of ool by dusting it with salt, pepper, and allspice. Then roll it tightly upon itself, as you would a ribbon, beginning at the broad end, until you have rolled it into a lump something like a short, thick sausage, blunt at both ends; tie it with broad tape (not with string, which would out into the flesh when cooked) to keep it from unrolling, and then oook in an earthen pot with a lid ezaotly as you do potted eels. Sturgeon. There are few people so poor that they will consent to eat stur- geon, yet this fish, if properly eooked, affords, it is said, a luxurious meal. Get a few shoes, moderately thick, put them in a pot or pan of water, and parboil them to get rid of the oil; then roll in erumbs of cracker and egg, just as you would a veal outlet, and fry. This makes a veal outlet that beats the original by far, and you are sure that it is '"full six weeks old," as the butcher always certifies in regard to the veal. Tops' 11k a p. Tn some places, fishmongers take the heads off their codfish before they out up the rest of the fish to retail it by the pound. Tn that oase the heads are sold cheap; and when they ean be thus had they FISH. 247 are well worth the buying. We have enjoyed many a cheap fish treat with a dish of cods' heads, which contain several of the tit- hits prized by epicures, namely, the tongue, the cheek-pieces, and the nape of the neck. After taking out the eyes, wash the heads, drain them, and, if you can let them lie all night with a little salt sprinkled over them, they will be none the worse for it. Put them into a kettle of boiling water and boil from fifteen to twenty minutes, according to size. Dish them on a strainer, if you can, and help with a spoon. For sauce, drawn butter is good. For sharp sauce, take a few tablespoonfuls of the cods' heads boilings; put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter or dripping and a tablespoonful of vinegar; thicken with a little flour and keep stirring in one direction till they are all raised smooth and come to a boil. Both these sauces go well with any boiled fish. To these we will add a third which will be found equally simple and good. For brown sauce, put a good lump of butter or dripping into a saucepan. Set it on a brisk fire, shake it around now and then, and keep it there until it is browned, not burnt. Take it off the fire and stir into it a good tablespoonful of vinegar. When they are well mixed, pour into your sauce-boat and serve. The mixing of the vinegar with the hot fat had better be done out of doors, on account of the quantity of vapor that arises when they are put together. Any meat remaining on the cods' heads after a meal should be separated from the skin and bone before it gets cold. This rule applies to all other fish. Arrange it neatly on a plate and dust a little pepper and drop a little vinegar over it. It will furnish a nice little delicacy when cold, or you may warm it up with mashed potatoes, adding any sauce that may be left; or, after putting on it the cold sauce left, or a little butter, you may cover with mashed potatoes and sprinkle over it bread crumbs; pour over it beaten egg and brown in the oven. 248 FISH. Fbesh Codfish. Cut it in slices and fry or broil; if fried, roll it first in flour. Salt Codfish. Pick the fish up fine and let it soak for two hours, then rinse, and (f fresh enough, cook in a little milk thickened with flour; add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and eggs to taste. The eggs may be beaten and stirred in, or dropped into boiling water, and then put into the codfish gravy whole, or laid on a platter and have the fish poured over them. It may also be boiled and served with a gravy made of melted butter and flour. Scalloped Codfish. One quart of pickled codfish, one pint of bread crumbs, or rolled crackers, one-half pint of cream, four ounces of butter, one tea- spoonful of pepper; wash and freshen the fish. When ready, put it into a baking dish with the crumbs in alternate layers, with a little butter and pepper; have the top layer of crumbs and cover with beaten egg } then pour the cream over all and bake half an hour. Codfish Balls. Pick the fish fine, and freshen. Boil potatoes and mash them; mix fish and potatoes together while potatoes are hot, taking two- thirds potatoes and one-third fish. Put in plenty of butter; make into balls, and fry in hot lard. Salt Mackerel. Soak for a day or two, after taking out of the brine, in cold water, or buttermilk; lay in a pan with the flesh side down, and change the water occasionally. Just before cooking, lay it into a shallow dish and cover with hot milk, which removes the strong taste. Take it out of the milk and wipe dry with a napkin. Then lay on a gridiron and broil the same as fresh fish and serve with sauce with lemon juice. FISH. 249 Baked Cod. When purchasing a four-pound cod ask your fishdealer to send you three or four codfish heads. Rub a little salt on the fish, chop the heads into six pieces each, and sprinkle a little salt over them. Place them in the center of the baking-pan (to be used as supports for the fish), with two ounces of butter, one carrot, a turnip, a potato, and one onion cut into slices, two blades of mace, a tea- spoonful of white pepper, one tablespoonful of celery seed, six cloves, and a cup of red wine. Set the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod. , Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill the fish; drain off the water and pound the bread to a paste; mix with it two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two raw eggs, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, with salt and pepper to taste. Put this stuffing inside the fish and sew it up; place the cod in the pan with two or three pieces of butter on the top, and baste it frequently; when it is cooked lay the fish on a hot platter, and garnish with fried oysters if convenient. Add two tablespoon- fuls of prepared flour to the pan, a wineglass of sherry; mix and strain the gravy into a sauce-boat. Boiled Pike. If the fish is sent home split through the underside sew it up. Then run a thread through the fish so as to draw it into the shape of a letter S. Tie it fast, and then tie it up in a cloth. Not having any fish kettle, lower it into the pot of boiling water if it is small or a small piece, if a large fish put it into cold water. If a large fish is put into hot water the outside cooks first, but in cold water it cooks evenly through. While boiling add a tablespoonful of salt, a slice of lemon or a half cup of vinegar and a few cloves. When done lift the fish from the pot upon a platter, untie the cloth, and by gently scraping the skin down the sides, from the top of the back, you can take the whole fish from the shell and place upon a dish for the table. 250 ' FISH. TURBOT. Take a fine large whitefish, steam until tender; take out the bones- and sprinkle with pepper and salt. For the dressing heat one quart of milk and thicken with a half or two-thirds of a cup of flour. When cool add two eggs and a quarter of a pound of butter; put in the baking-dish a layer of fish, then a layer of sauce, until full. Season with garlic, parsley and thyme. Cover the top with bread crumbs and bake three-fourths of an hour. To Fry White Fish. One of the best ways to fry white fish, or any other fish, is to first fry some slices of salt pork, then roll the pieces of fish in fine Indian meal, and fry in the pork gravy. About three slices of pork for a medium-sized fish. White fish needs less fat than almost any other. Fish needs to be cooked a long time and very slowly to make it flaky and white. Salmon. A delicious way to cook salmon is to boil it and serve with a gravy made of butter, flour, pepper, salt, and »plenty of oysters. Cook the oysters in a very little water, the^ stir into the sauce. You may prepare canned salmon in this way. CHAPTER XX. SHELL FISH. Clams. 10 judge whether clams and oysters are fresh insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes firmly on the knife the oysters are fresh. If it shuts slowly and faintly or not at all they are dying or dead. When the shells of raw oysters are found gaping open they are not good. Cla.m Bake. Lay the clams on a rock, edge downward, forming a circle; cover them with fine brush, cover the brush with dry sage, cover the sage with larger brush; set the whole on fire, and when the brush and sage are a little more than half burnt look at the clams by pulling some out, and if done enough brush the fire, cinders, etc., off; mix some tomato or cauliflower sauce or catsup with the clams after being taken out of their shells; add butter and spices to taste and serve. Clam Chowder. Put in a pot some small slices of fat salt pork, enough to line the bottom of it; on that a layer of potatoes cut in small pieces; on the potatoes a layer of chopped onions; on the onions a layer of tomatoes in slices, or canned tomatoes; on these a layer of clams, whole or chopped (they are generally chopped), then a layer of crackers. Season with salt and pepper, and other spices if desired. Then repeat this process, layer after layer, in above order, seasoning each, until the pot is full. When the whole is in, cover with water, 251 £52 SHELL FISH. set on a slow fire, and when nearly done stir gently, finish cooking and serve. When done, if found too thin, boil a little longer; if found too thick, add a little water, give one boil and serve. Fish Chowder is made exactly like clam chowder, except that fish are used instead of clams. Clam Fkitters. Twelve clams, minced fine, one pint of milk, three eggs; add the liquor from the clams to the milk; beat up the eggs and add to this, with salt and pepper and flour enough for a thin batter; lastly add the chopped clams. Fry in hot lard, trying a little first to see if fat and batter are right. A tablespoonful makes a fritter of moderate size. Fry quickly and serve hot. Fried Clams. Take large soft-shell clams, dry them in a napkin, and dip them first in beaten egg and then powdered cracker or bread crumbs, and fry in sweet lard or butter or both mixed. Clam Pie. Take a quantity of clams, if large chop them, put in a saucepan and cook in their own liquor, or, if necessary, add a little water; boil three or four medium-sized potatoes until done, then cut in slices; line a pudding-dish half way up its sides; turn a small teacup bottom up in the middle of the dish to keep up the top crust, put in first a layer of clams and then a few potatoes, season with bits of butter and a little salt and pepper and dredge with flour; add another layer of clams, and so on till the dish is filled; add the liquor in which the clams were cooked and a little water if neces- sary. There should be as much liquid as for chicken or other meat pie. Cover with top crust, cut places for steam to escape and bake three-fourths of an hour. Clam Stew. Put the clams in a stewpan with about the same quantity of vater as the juice of the clams. Boil twenty-five or thirty minutes; SHELL FISH. 253 remove all the scum that rises, and season with butter, salt and pepper. Clam Soup. Take the required number of clams, chop them fine, then cook in a little water with butter, pepper and salt; when almost done put in milk or cream, and in soup enough for four persons put one cup of rolled crackers. Serve hot. Crabs. To fit them for the table, living crabs require to be boiled in salt water; they are either placed in cold water which is then made hot or put at once into boiling water; crabs cooked by the latter method are found to have the finest flavor. The male crab is the most valuable for the table, and may be distinguished by possessing larger claws. In purchasing crabs in the living state preference should be given to those which have a rough shell and claws. When selecting a crab which has been cooked it should be held by its claws and well shaken from side to side. If it is found to rattle, or feels as if it contained water, it is a proof that the crab is of inferior quality. . The crab may be kept alive, out of water, two or three days. Soft Crabs. Many will not eat hard-shell crabs, considering them indigestible, and not sufficiently palatable to compensate for the risk they run in eating them. And it must be owned that they are, at their best, but an indifferent substitute for the more aristocratic lobster. But in the morning of life, for him so often renewed, his crabship is a different creature, and greatly affected by epicures. Do not keep the crabs over night, as the shells harden in twenty- four hours. Pull off the spongy substance from the sides, and the sand-bags. These are the only portions uneatable. Wash well and wipe dry. Have ready a pan of seething hot lard or butter and fry them to a fine brown. Put a little salt into the lard; the butter will need none. Send up hot, garnished with parsley. 254 SHELL FISH. Scalloped Crab. Pick out all the meat of the crab and mix thoroughly; add to it one-third its quantity of bread crumbs, a good lump of butter, divided into little bits; season with salt and pepper, a dust of grated nutmeg and a dessertspoonful of vinegar or lemon juice sprinkled over the mass. Mix all equally together. Clean out the bottom shell of your crab, and fill it with the mixture; what is left you may put into scallop-shells or tins. Set them into a moderately hot oven. "When hot through and slightly browned on the surface they are fit to serve on a dish covered with a napkin, the crab-shell in the middle and the scallop-shells around it, garnished with sprigs of parsley. Frogs. Scald the hind quarters in boiling water, rub them with lemon juice and boil for three minutes, wipe them, dip them first in cracker dust, then in a mixture of two beaten eggs in half a cup of milk seasoned with pepper and salt, then again in cracker crumbs. When they are well covered with crumbs fry in a mixture of hot lard and butter. Lobster Croquettes. Chop the lobster very fine; mix with pepper, salt, bread crumbs and a little parsley; moisten with cream and a small piece of butter; 6hape with your hands; dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry. Lobster Cutlets. Mince the flesh of lobsters fine; season with salt, pepper and tspice; melt a piece of butter in a saucepan; mix with it one table- spoonful of flour; add lobster and finely-chopped parsley; mix with some good stock; remove from the fire, and stir into it the yolks of two eggs; spread out the mixture, and, when cold, cut into cutlets, dip carefully into beaten egg, then into fine baked bread crumbs; let them stand an hour, and repeat, and fry a rich brown. Serve with fried parsley. SHELL FISH. 255 Fried Lobster. If, when making a salad, you have more lobster than you wish to use for that, keep it in a cool place and fry in butter and bread crumbs for breakfast. Lobster Patties. Make some puff-paste and spread it on very deep patty pans. Bake it empty. Having boiled well two or three fine lobsters, extract all the meat and mince it very small, mixing it with the coral smoothly mashed, and some yolk of hard-boiled egg, grated. Season it with a little salt, some Cayenne, and some powdered mace or nutmeg, adding a little yellow lemon rind, grated. Moisten the mixture well with cream, fresh butter, or salad oil. Put it into a stewpan, add a very little water, and let it steam till it just comes to a boil. Take it off the fire, and the patties being baked, remove them from the tin pans, place them on a large dish, and fill them up to the top with the mixture. Similar patties may be made of prawns or crabs. Lobster Rissoles. Extract the meat of a boiled lobster; mince it as fine as possible; mix it with the coral pounded smooth, and some yolks of hard- boiled eggs, pounded also. Season it with Cayenne pepper, pow- dered mace, and a very little salt. Make a batter of beaten egg, milk and flour. To each egg allow two large tablespoonfuls of milk, and a large teaspoonf ul of flour. Beat the batter well, and then mix the lobster with it gradually, till it is stiff enough to make into oval balls about the size of a large plum. Fry them in the best salad oil, and serve them up either warm or cold. Similar rissoles may be made of raw oysters minced fine, or of boiled clams. These should be fried in lard. Lobster Salad. Pick the meat from the shell, cut into nice square pieces, cut up some lettuce and mix. Make a dressing of four tablespoonfuls of -oil, two of vinegar, one of mustard, the yolks of two eggs and pep- 256 SHELL FISH. per and salt to taste; rub smooth together, forming a creamy look- ing sauce, and cover the lobster with it. Garnish with sliced cucumber pickles, egg-rings, parsley and cold beet cut in fancy shapes. Broiled Lobster. Cut the tail part of a lobster in two, rub a little sweet oil over the meat and broil. When done, brush a little butter over it with the juice of half a lemon and a very little Cayenne. Place the meat back into the shell and send to the table with a dish of broiled tomatoes and a fresh baked potato. Lobsters en Brochette. Cut up the tail of a lobster in square pieces; take a few thin slices of bacon and cut into lengths to match the lobster; place them on a skewer alternately and broil; baste as in broiled lobster and send to the table on a bed of water-cresses. Roasted Lobsters. When lobsters are half cooked, remove from the water and rub thoroughly with butter; lay before the fire; continue basting with butter until it has a line froth and the shell becomes a dark brown. Place on a dish and serve with plain melted butter in a sauce-boat. Gratin of Lobster. Take out all the meat from a large lobster, then wash the body, tail, and shells, if the lobster is first cut in halves down the back, then dry and butter them and sprinkle with bread crumbs; chop the meat fine, with a little parsley and shallot, a few drops of essence of anchovies, a spoonful of vinegar, Cayenne pepper and salt, a little bechamel sauce, and boil all well together, add a yolk of 'egg, put it to cool, then fill your shells or paper cases, cover with bread crumbs and some pieces of butter; brown them in the oven, and dish on a napkin. Broiled Oysters. Drain select oysters in a colander; dip them one by one into SHELL FISH. 257 melted butter, to prevent sticking to the gridiron, and place them on a wire gridiron. Broil over a clear fire. When nicely browned on both sides, season with salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, and lay them on hot buttered toast, moistened with a little hot water. Serve very hot, or they will not be nice. Oysters cooked in this way and served on broiled beefsteak are nice. . Oyster Chowder. Fry out three rashers of pickled pork in the pot you make the chowder; add to it three potatoes and two onions, booh sliced; boil until they are nearly cooked; soak two or three dozen crackers in cold water a few minutes, then put into the pot half a can of oys- ters, one quart of milk and the soaked crackers. Boil all together a few minutes; season with salt, pepper and butter. Fish chowder can be made the same way by using fresh fish instead of oysters. Oyster Croquettes. Take the hard end of the oyster, leaving the other end in nice chape for a soup or stew; scald them, then chop fine and add an equal weight of potatoes rubbed through a colander; to one pound of this add two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, half a teaspoonful of mace, and one-half gill of cream; make in small rolls, dip in egg and grated bread, fry in deep lard. Fricasseed Oysters. Drain the liquor from a quart of oysters, strain half a pint and put in a porcelain kettle, and when it boils put in the oysters. Have a tablespoonful of flour rubbed well into two tablespoonfuls of butter. When the oysters begin to swell, stir in the butter and flour, cook until the oysters are white and plump; then add a gill of cream and pepper and salt. Fried Oysters. Take large oysters, wash and drain. Dip them into flour; put in a hot frying pan with plenty of lard and butter; season with salt 258 SHELL FISH. and pepper; fry brown on both sides. Fried in this way, they are similar to broiled oysters. Fried Oysters, No. 2. Drain, remove all bits of shell, and sprinkle with pepper and salt, and set in a cool place for ten minutes. Then, if the oysters are small, pour them into a pan of crackers, rolled fine; add liquor, mix well and let stand five minutes; add a little salt and pepper, mold into small cakes, with two or three oysters in each, roll in dry crackers and fry in lard and butter. Serve hot in a covered dish. Chicken and Oyster Pie. Parboil a chicken; cut up and place in a pie dish; cover with oysters and season to taste; add two hard-boiled eggs cut into slices, with a piece of butter, size of an egg, in the center; dust the whole with flour, and pour on one-half pint of milk; put on a puff- paste crust and bake about three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Scalloped Oysters. Prepare stale bread-crumbs, season to taste with pepper and salt; butter a deep dish; cover the bottom with the crumbs; add a layer of large-sized oysters, with butter; fill the dish alternately with oysters, crumbs and butter. Bake in a hot oven until cooked entirely through; if they become too brown on the top, cover with paper. If preferred, scallop the oysters separately and serve in the shells, observing that the shells are well cleaned. Instead of crumbs use slices of well-buttered bread, if you like, or bake with a crust of puff-paste. Park Row Oyster Stew. Put the oysters into a stewpan with a little liquor to cover them; add a little butter, pepper and salt; stir every now and then while on the fire, and when poured into the dish, put in about a table- spoonful of milk to every ten oysters. Oyster soup is made in the same way, except that more liquor is SHELL FISH. 259 added, and a tablespoonful of pounded butter crackers; add plenty of milk the last thing when the oysters are cooked, and let it boil up once. Maryland Stewed Oysters. Put the juice into a saucepan and let it simmer, skimming it care- fully; then rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and one large spoonful of flour well together, and stir into the juice. Cut in small pieces a quarter of a pound of butter, half a teaspoonful of whole allspice, a little salt, a little Cayenne, and the juice of a fresh lemon; let all simmer ten minutes, and just before dishing, add the oysters. This is for two quarts of oysters. Plain Stew. One quart of oysters with liquor, pint and a half of milk, piece of butter size of egg, pepper and salt; boil all together until done. Oyster Sauce. Set the oysters in their liquor over the fire for a few minutes; then remove them from the liquor and stir into it some flour and butter well rubbed together, add salt and pepper, and when it has boiled well for five minutes put in the oysters and s 4 the ham, dark, bright, crimson red; the fat, white and firm, and never too deficient in quantity according to the joint. Bad mutton is of an unsightly brownish color, and has a bad smell with a little fat, and that flabby and yellowish, often, but not always, the car- cass looks as if the beast had been devoured by consumptive lean- ness. If you can get a sight of the liver, its state will sometimes tell you tales of the creature's healthf ulness or the reverse. Pork. — Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the greatest care. The pig, from his gluttonous habits, is particularly liable to disease, and if it is killed and its flesh eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who partake of it will prob- ably have to pay dearly for their indulgence. It is generally understood that dairy-fed pork is the best. Where it is possible, therefore, it is always safest to obtain pork direct from some farm where it has been fed and killed. When this cannot be done, it should either be purchased from a thoroughly respectable and reliable person or dispensed with altogether. Pork is best in cold weather. It is in season from November to March. It should be avoided during: the summer months. The fat should be white and firm, the lean finely grained, and the skin thin and cool. If any kernels are to be seen in the fat, the pig was diseased at the time it was killed. Pork should not be allowed to hang more than a day or two before it is cooked, as it will not keep unless it be salted. If cooked quite fresh, however, it will be hard. The head, heart, liver, etc., should be cooked as soon as possible. Care should be taken that the pork be thoroughly cooked. Veat is best when the animal is from two to three months old. Veal, like all your?: msat, has a tendency to turn very quickly It is both unpalatable and most unwholesome when it is at ail tain's, ■ :.»._, and it cannot be recovered, as brown meats sometimes can, by the use of charcoal. Therefore it ought not to be kept more than two •lays in summer and four in winter. If eaten quite fresh it is apt t,c be a little tousrh. MARKETING. 275 If there is any danger of the veal becoming tainted, wash it, and put it into boiling water for ten minutes. Plunge it into cold water till cool, wipe it dry, and put it into the coolest place that can be found. No meat is more generally useful for making soups and gravies than veal. 1. Loin, chump end. 2. Loin, best end. 3. Neck, best end. 4. Neck, scrag end. 5. Fillet. 6. Hind knuckle. SECTIONS OP CALF. 7. Fore knuckle. 8. Breast, brisket end. 9. Breast, best end. 10. Blade-bone. 11. Head. Turkeys. — A young cock-turkey is the best, and may be known by its smooth, black legs and short spurs. The spurs must be closely looked into, because it is an old trick of the dealers to cut and scrape them in order to get rid of old birds as young ones. If in good condition the eyes will be bright and full and the feet soft and pliable; whereas where stale the eyes will be dim and sunken and the feet stiff and dry. The beak of a young turkey is some- what soft, but hard and rigid in an old one. The legs of an old hen-turkey are red and rough. In other respects a hen-turkey may be judged of as a cock-turkey, spurs excepted. Fowls. — A young cock will have short spurs, which will require the same inspection as turkeys. A fine bird will have a smooth comb, a full fat breast, and a large rump. The skin should be delicate and transparent. Pullets are best when about to lay, at which time they have partially formed eggs inside. Fowls with black legs are best roasted. Game birds should, also, be roasted. 276 MARKETING. Young Dorking, Spanish and Cochin should he provided for boil- ing. For broth, an old hen will do, if well cooked. Geese. — A young goose will have its beak and feet yellow with a very few bristles about them; but an old bird will have the feet and bill red and bristly. When fresh, the feet are pliable, but stiff and dry when stale. The fat of a young bird is whiter and softer than that of an old bird, and the breast is plump, as is the case with all poultry in good condition; knowing which the dealer* have a trick of breaking the breast bones to deceive their custom- ers, and foist upon them old birds for young ones. Ducks. — The feet and legs of a fresh killed duck are pliable and soft, but those of a stale one are stiff and dry. Freshness of the eye is an indication of a fresh bird. A wild duck has rather small,, reddish feet, while those of a tame duck are a dusky yellow, and somewhat large. An old duck should be kept hanging a few days before it is cooked; it will generally be lean and thin as compared *vith a plump young bird. CHAPTER XXIIL MEATS. Beep, Aitchbone of, to Caeve. ;N carving an aitchbone of beef it is necessary tbat it should be cut across the grain. In order to do this the knife should follow the line A to B in the illustration. The meat should be cut of a moderate thickness, and very evenly. Cut the lean and the fat in one slice, and if more fat is wanted it should be taken horizon- tally from the side. Before proceed- • ing to serve, a slice of about a quarter of an inch in thickness should be cut from the top, so that the juicy part of the meat may be obtained at once. Brisket of Beef Stewed. Take six pounds of beef, and, before di-essing it, rub it over with vinegar and salt; place it in a stewpanwith stock or water sufficient to cover it. Allow it to simmer for an hour, skimming it well all the time. Put in six each of carrots, turnips, and small onions; and allow all to simmer until the meat is quite tender, which will require about two hours more. As soon as it is ready the bones should be removed. Boil for a few minutes as much of tbe gravy as will be required with flour and a little butter, and season it with catsup, allspice and mace. Pour a little of it over the brisket, and send the remainder to the table in a separate dish. Making Tough Steak Tender. Take one teaspoonful of salad oil, two teaspoonful? of vinegar 278 MEATS. and a very little Cayenne pepper. Lay the steak upon it and let it remain one hour; then turn it over and let it lie an hour. Then fry or broil as usual. The vinegar softens the fibre and the oil keeps it soft. Steak may stand over night this way if turned about ten o'clock. Pounding steak is a great mistake; it breaks up the fibre, but drives out the juice and destroys much of its nutriment. Beef, Brisket of, to Carve. The accompanying engraving represents the appearance of a brisket of beef ready for the table. There is no difficulty in carving it. The only thing to observe is that it should be cut cleanly along the bones, in the direction indicated by the dot- ted line, with a firm hand, in moderately thick slices. Cut it close down to the bones, so that they may not have a rough and jagged appearance when removed. Broiled Steak. Never put salt on a steak until after it is cooked. After trim- ming on each side equally, dress to taste with sweet fresh butter, pepper and salt, and add, if preferred, a teaspoonful of lemon- juice. Broiled Beefsteak. To cook a good, juicy beefsteak, never pound it, but slash it several times across each way; have a nice bright fire and broil as quickly as possible, without burning; if the coals blaze from the drippings, sprinkle on a little salt, which will instantly extinguish the flames. Steak should be turned constantly while broiling, and to be rare should not cook over three minutes; butter and salt after taking up. This should be served very hot. Rump Steak tvtth Oyster Sauce. Let your oysters give a turn or two with plenty of butter in a frying-pan, then add pepper and salt, a little flour, and the juice of MEATS. 279 half a lemon, with enough water to make up the quantity of sauce you want, stir till the oysters are done, and serve with the steak hroiled in the usual way. To Fry Steak, or Cook in Frying Pan. If you have not a broiler, steak may be cooked nearly as well by heating the frying pan very hot and just greasing it with a little butter, or a little of the chopped suet, and lay in the steak and keep turning until sufficiently cooked; then transfer to a hot platter and season with salt and pepper, and cover with butter and serve. German Way of Frying Beefsteak. Pound the cut steak a little, salt it and fry quickly with hot lard on both sides; pour off the lard and place the steak on the dish; put into the pan some fresh butter and fry with it some finely cut onions and pour this over the steak. Beefsteak Smothered with Onions. Melt a lump of butter in a frying pan; cover the bottom of the pan with onions sliced very thin; then lay the steak over them. "When the onions are fried until they are tender, put the beef on the bottom of the pan and cover it with the onions; add butter or lard as you need it. Liver cooked in this way is nice also. When it is done, lay it on a platter and heap the onions on the meat. A very little gravy made in the pan in which you have cooked the meat and onions is an addition, but make only a little and turn over the meat, seasoning it well with salt and pepper. Beefsteak Pie. Cut the steak into pieces an inch long, and stew with the bone (cracked) in just enough water to cover the meat until it is half done. Line a pudding dish with a good paste. Put in a layer of the beef, with salt and pepper, and a very little chopped onion; then one of sliced boiled potatoes, with a little butter scattered upon them, and so on until the dish is full. Pour over all the •280 MEATS. gravy in which the meat is stewed, having first thrown away the bone and thickened with flour. Cover with a crust thicker than the lower, leaving a slit in the middle. Ribs or Beef, to Carve. The rib should be cut in thin and even slices from the thick end towards the thin. This can be more readily and cleanly done, if the carving-knife is first run along between the meat and the end and rib bones. To Roast Ribs of Beef. The best piece to roast is the fore-rib, and it should be hung for two or three days before it is cooked. The ends of the ribs should be sawn off, the outside fat fastened with skewers, and the strong sinew and chime bones removed. The joint should first be placed near the fire, and after a short time it should be drawn back and roasted steadily. Baste freely with clarified drippings at first, as there will not be sufficient gravy when first put down; keep basting at intervals of ten minutes until done. Care must be taken not to allow it to burn, as it is easily spoiled. Serve with horse-radish sauce. To Roast Sirloin of Beef. Take out the suet and lay it thickly over the fillet. Tie the flap under the fillet and make all firm before it is put into the oven. Should .he oven be very hot place a paper over the meat while yet raw, in which case it will need very little basting; or turn the rib side up toward the fire for the first twenty minutes. The time it will take in cooking depends entirely upon the thickness of the joint and the length of time it has been killed. Skim the fat from the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared brown flour and a glass of sherry to the remainder. MEATS. 281 Sirloin" of Beep, to Carve. A sirloin should be cut with one good, firm stroke from end to end of the joint, at the upper portion, making the cut very clean from A, B to C. Then disengage it from the bone by a horizontal cut exactly to the bone, B to D, using the tip of the knife. Bad carving bears the hand away to the rind of the beef, eventually, after many cuts, peeling it back to the other side, leav- ing a portion of the best of the meat adhering to the bone. Every slice should be clean and even, and the sirloin should cut fairly to the very end. Many persons cut the c" under side whilst hot, not reckoning it so good cold; but this is a matter of taste, and so is the mode of carving it. The best way is first of all to remove the fat, E, which chops up well to make pud- dings, if not eaten at table. Then the under part can be cut as already described, from end to end, F to G, or downwards as shown by the marks at H. Beef Balls. Mince very fine a piece of tender beef, fat and lean; mince an onion, with some boiled parsley; add grated bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg and lemon peel; mix all together and moisten it with an egg beaten; roll it into balls, flour and fry them in boiling fresh dripping. Serve them with fried bread crumbs. Fillet of Beef. This is to be larded and dressed with a brown mushroom sauce. Trim the fat off a tenderloin of beef, and if you are going to dress it for dinner trim off the corners somewhat. It wants to be the shape of a fillet whole. A whole fillet is usually too large for a family dinner. Trim down the loin so it is smaller at each end. 282 MEATS. Save the pieces of meat trimmed off, cut up in bits an inch square and make a stew with a few mushrooms or potatoes. Never by any means throw them away. After the fillet is trimmed lard it by inserting little strips of fat salt pork over the upper surface with a larding needle. After larding lay on a baking-pan with thin slices of salt pork under it, and put buttered paper over it to prevent burning the pork. Bake or roast it. It is usually served rare; then it should roast fifteen minutes to a pound. If it is to be well done it should roast twenty minutes for each pound. Season when brown, not before, with pepper and salt. A Goon and Cheap "Wat to Coo^i Beef. A cheap dish can be made of a brisket or flank of beef. Cut a slice eight inches long and an inch thick, season highly, spread a stuffing of soaked bread highly seasoned over it, tie it up and lay in water enough to cover, and cook slowly a long time. This makes a very nice dish and should be served with red cabbage. Cut up the cabbage as for cold slaw. Put in a saucepan one table- spoonful of sugar, one of butter, half a cup of vinegar, half a dozen pepper corns, and half a dozen cloves; then put in the cab- bage, cover tight and set on the back of the stove and let it steam an hour, when it will be tender. The beef may also be served with red beets, boiled till tender without breaking, peeled and laid around the dish of meat. A nice way to bake beef is to put in the pan under it a bed of vegetables and scraps of pork, a tablespoonful of carrot, turnip, sprigs of parsley, a half dozen cloves and a half dozen pepper corns; add a bay-leaf, if you wish, and a teaspoonful of onion. You will find that all these will give a nice flavor not only to the meat but also to the gravy made from the drippings. Beep a la Mode. Take a round of beef, remove the bone from the middle, also all the gristle and tough parts about the edges. Have ready half a pound of fat salt pork, cut into strips as thick and long as your MEATS. 283 finger. Prepare a nice dressing the same as for stuffing a turkey, With a thin sharp knife make perpendicular incisions in the meat about half an inch apart, thrust into them the pork, and work in with them some of the dressing. Proceed thus until the meat ii thoroughly plugged. Put it into a baking pan with a little water at the bottom; cover tightly and bake slowly four hours; then uncover, and spread the rest of the dressing over the top, and bake until a nice brown. After taking up, thicken the gravy and pour over the beef. It should be sliced horizontally. Is good either hot or cold. Pounded Beef. Boil a shin of twelve pounds of meat until it falls readily from the bone; pick it to pieces; mash gristle and all very fine; pick out all the hard bits. Set the liquor away; when cool, take off all the fat; boil the liquor down to a pint and a half. Then return the meat to it while hot; add pepper and salt and any spice you choose. Let it boil a few times, stirring all the while. Put into a mold jr deep dish to cool. Use cold and cut in thin slices for tea, or warm it for breakfast. Beef Coquettes. Use cold roast beef; chop it fine; season with pepper and salt; add one-third the quantity of bread crumbs, and moisten with a little milk. Have your hands floured; rub the meat into balls, dip it into beaten egg, then into fine pulverized cracker, and fry in but- ter; garnish with parsley. Deviled Beef. Take slices of cold roast beef, lay them on hot coals, and broil? season with pepper and salt, and serve while hot, with a small lumf of butter on each piece. Beef Sausages. To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one and one-half pounds of suet, and chop very fine; season with sage in powder, allspice, pepper and salt; have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat into them. "284 MEATS. Beef au Gratin. Take cold beef, either boiled or roasted, and cut it in thin slices. Urease a tin pan with butter, dust with bread crumbs, put in a little chopped parsley, and lay on the slices of beef. Put salt, pepper, and parsley on top, dust with bread crumbs, drop on lemon-juice, and a little broth, just to cover the bottom of the pan, and place it in the oven. Beef Heart. Wash it carefully and stuff it nicely with dressing as for turkey; roast it about one and a half hours, and serve with the gravy, which should be thickened with some of the stuffing. It is very oice hashed. Dried Beef in Cream. Shave your beef very fine; pour over it boiling water; let it stand for a few minutes; pour this off and pour on good rich cream; let it come to a boil. If you have not cream, use milk and butter, and thicken with a very little flour; season with pepper, and serve on toast or not, as you like. Beef Omelette. Three pounds of beefsteak, three-fourths of a pound of suet, xhopped fine, salt, pepper, and a little sage, three eggs, six Boston crackers, rolled; make into roll and bake. Broiled Beef Tongue. Put a fresh tongue on the fire with just cold water enough to cover it, and with it a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, a couple of slices of lemon, some black pepper, salt and a little garlic. Let it simmer gently for about two hours till quite tender. Skin and trim it. Either serve it whole or cut it in slices, and arrange in a ring with the following thick sauce in the center: Strain the liquor in which the tongue was cooked (this should be reduced by simmering to a mere gravy) ; brown a large tablespoonf ul of flour in a good sized piece of butter; braize two or three cloves of garlic, and let them MEATS. 28fr steam a little while in the browning; then add the strained gravy by degrees, stirring it quite smooth. Add a little lemon-juice or vinegar; and whether it be served whole or sliced, dish the sauce with the tongue. If garlic is objected to, make a sauce of grated horse-radish, a carrot bruised fine, capers and a little wine. Gar- nish with lemon slices and parsley. To Boil Beef. Put fresh beef into boiling water (unless you wish to make soup, then it should be put into cold water) and bring quickly to a boil, then set on back part of the stove and simmer gently till done. Corned beef, if very salt, should be soaked over night, then put into lukewarm, not boiling, water. Simmer from the time of boil- ing till it is served up. Skim the pot thoroughly and turn the meat twice during the simmering. The meat will be much better if allowed to cool in the liquor in Avhich it is cooked. Tongue Roasted. Parboil a tongue that has been salted about ten days; roast, baste with red wine, and cover it at last with butter. Serve with a rich gravy and sweet sauce. Tripe. This may be served in a tureen, stewed tender with milk and onions, or fried in bits dipped in butter. In both the above ways serve melted butter for sauce. Or cut the thin parts in oblong bits and stew in gravy; thicken with butter rolled in a very little flour, and add a spoonful of mushroom catsup. Or boil it tender in milk, and serve in milk-white sauce. Tripe a la Lyonnaise with Tomatoes. This economical dish, which is in reach of every family, is also very fine. Take two pounds of dressed and boiled tripe, cut into small strips two inches long and put into a saucepan. Parboil and drain off the first water; chop a small onion fine, and let all stew twenty minutes; add half a cup of thickening and then stir in half 286 MEATS. a can of tomatoes; season with salt and pepper. This dish has become very popular in all the hotels throughout the country. Bullock's Heart, Roasted. Wash the heart in several waters, clean the blood carefully from the pipes, and put it to soak in vinegar and water for two hours or more. Drain it and fill it either with ham forcemeat or sage and onion stuffing. Fasten it securely, tie it in a cloth, put into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently for two hours. Take off the cloth and roast the heart while hot, basting it plentifully with good dripping for two hours longer. Serve with good brown gravy and currant jelly. The stewing may be omitted and the heart simply roasted for three or four hours, but the flesh will not then be so tender. Calf's Heart, Roasted. Wash the heart very clean, soak it in vinegar and water, fill it with a forcemeat made of four ounces of bread crumbs, two ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon rind, and a little salt and Cayenne. Fasten the heart securely and bake for two hours. Serve it with good melted butter, mixed with a tablespoonful of lemon-juice or vin- egar. A calf's heart is improved by partially boiling before it is roasted. Calf's Heart, Fried. Wash and soak the heart, cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick and fry these in a little hot dripping or butter. About five minutes before they are done, put a slice of bacon into the pan for each slice of heart and when they are sufficiently cooked, serve on a hot dish and cover each piece of heart with a slice of bacon. Boil two or three tablespoonfuls of thin flour and water in the pan in which the, meat was fried. Season it with pepper and salt; add one tablespoonful of red currant jelly and serve as hot as possible. The slices of heart will fry in fifteen minutes. MEATS. 287 Sheep's Heart. Baked. Wash two or three sheeps' hearts in lukewarm water, fill them with veal forcemeat, and skewer them securely. Fasten a rasher of fat bacon around each, place them in a deep dish, and with them a little good stock, and an onion stuck with two cloves. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours; draw off the gravy; thicken with a little flour and butter, and season it with salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup. Put the .hearts on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and send red currant jelly with them to the table. Sweetbreads. Sweetbreads should be chosen as fresh as possible, as they very quickly spoil. There are two sorts — heart sweetbreads and throat sweetbreads. The heart sweetbreads are the best. In whatever way sweetbreads are dressed, they. should first be soaked in luke- warm water for a couple of hours. They should then be put into boiling water and simmer gently for five or ten minutes, according to size, and then taken up and laid in cold water. Sweetbreads are quite as frequently employed as ingredients in sundry made dishes as served alone, and as they do not possess a very decided natural flavor, they need to be accompanied by a highly seasoned sauce, or they will taste rather insipid. They are in full season from May to August. Sweetbreads Fried. Prepare them as usual. Cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, dip them in clarified butter, bread them again, and fry in plenty of hot fat till they are brightly browned on both sides. Drain them, and then dish on toast. Serve with cucumber sauce. Sweetbreads Baked. After preparing the sweetbreads as above, brush them over in every part with beaten egg, roll them in bread crumbs, sprinkle •clarified butter over them, and bread-crumb them again. Put them 288 MEATS. in a baking-tin with about two ounces of butter, and bake in a well- heated oven; baste them till they are done enough and brightly- browned. Take as many slices of hot toast as there are sweetbreads, put them in a dish, lay the sweetbreads upon them, pour brown gravy round, but not over them, and serve immediately. Sweetbreads Broiled. Take moderate-sized sweetbreads and prepare them in the usual way. Stew them in good stock till they are done enough. Then drain them and press them between two dishes till they are cold. Split them in halves and trim them neatly; brush them over with butter, and broil them over a clear but very gentle fire. Have a plate with clarified butter on it near the gridiron and keep dipping the sweetbreads in it, turning them frequently. When they are brightly browned all over they are done enough. Dish the slices in a circle, and send brown sauce, flavored with lemon-juice, to table in a tureen. Sweetbreads and Cauliflowers. Take four large sweetbreads and two cauliflowers. Split open the sweetbreads and remove the gristle. Soak them awhile in luke- warm water; put them into a saucepan of boiling water, and set them to boil ten minutes. Afterwards lay them in a pan of cold water to make them firm. The parboiling is to whiten them. Wash, drain and quarter the cauliflowers. Put them in a broad stewpan with the sweetbreads on them; season with a little Cayenne and a little nutmeg and add water to cover them. Put on the lid of the pan and stew one hour. Take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and roll it in two tablespoonfuls of flour; add this with a cup of milk to the stew, and give it one boil up and no more. Serve hot, in a deep dish. This stew will be found delicious. Tomato Sweetbreads. Cut up a quarter of a peck of fine ripe tomatoes; set them over the fire, and let them stew in nothing but their own juice till they MEATS. 289 go to pieces — then strain them through a sieve; have ready four or five sweetbreads that have been trimmed nicely and soaked in warm water. Put them into a stewpan with the tomato juice, and a little salt and Cayenne; add two or three tablespoonf uls of butter rolled in flour. Set the saucepan over the fire, and stew the sweetbreads till done. A few minutes before you take them up, stir in two beaten yoli:s of eggs. Serve the sweetbreads in a deep dish, with the tomato poured over them. Kidneys, Broiled or Roasted. Split the kidneys in two without separating the halves; peel oft the thin outer skin. Season them with salt and pepper; broil them, laying the flat sides first on the gridiron, to keep the gravy in; or, fry them the same. Or place them with the flat side upwards in a baking dish and put them in the oven. When done, serve in the same diyh in which they were baked. Immediately before serving, put on each half -kidney a piece of butter and a little finely-chopped parsley. Stewed Kidneys. Split die kidneys and peel off the outer skin as before; slice them thin on a plate; dust them with flour, pepper and salt; brown some flour in butter in a stewpan; dilute with a little water; mix smooth and in it cook the sliced kidneys. Let them simmer, but not boil. They will cook in a very short time. Butter some slices of toast and lay on a hot dish and pour over it the stewed kidneys, gravy and alt Fried Liver. Cut one pound of liver into slices one-fourth inch in thickness, and dredge some flour over them. Take an equal number of slices of bacon; fry the bacon tirst, and when it is done enough remove from the fat and place them on a hot dish. Fry the slices of liver in the same fat, and when lightly browned on both sides, dish bacon and liver in a circle, a slice of each alternately. Pour the fat from the pan and dredge a little flour into it; add a quarter of a pint of 19 290 MEATS. broth, a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup. Stir smoothly together until the sauce boils, and pour into the dish with the liver. Garnish with sliced lemon. If liked, a tablespoonful of fine\y-m\nced gherkins or pickled walnuts may be added to the sauce. Fried Liver, No. 2. Take one egg to one pound of liver; cut the liver thin, scald with hot water and wipe dry; beat up the egg, dip the slices of liver into the egg, then into powdered cracker, and fry brown. - Roast Quarter of Lamb. Trim the joint and skewer three or four slices of bacon securely to the outer side, brush three ounces of clarified butter over the inner part and strew upon it a thick covering of finely-grated bread crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt and a little finely-minced parsley. Put in the oven, and when nearly done remove the bacon and baste the meat with the beaten yolk of egg mixed with the gravy, throw some more bread crumbs over it and let it remain until nicely browned. If liked, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it and serve with mint sauce. Lamb Chops, Fried. Cut a loin or neck of lamb into chops from half to three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Dip each one into beaten egg and after- wards into bread crumbs, flavored as follows: Mix three ounces of finely-grated bread crumbs with a saltspoonful of salt, half a salt- spoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley and a quarter of a teaspoonf ul of finely-mixed lemon rind. Fry the chops in good drippings until lightly browned on both sides. Serve on a hot dish and garnish with slices of lemon or crisped parsley. MEATS. 291 Lamb Chops, Broiled. Cut the chops about half an inch thick, trim them neatly, remov- ing the superfluous fat, place them on a hot gridiron over a clear fire and brown them nicely on both sides. Season them with salt and pepper, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish with parsley. Mashed potatoes, asparagus, green pease, or spinach, are usually served with lamb chops. Stewed Lamb with Green Pease. Take two pounds of lamb, put it into a stewpan and cover with cold water; after removing the scum add a little pepper and salt, then let the meat stew for an hour and a half or nearly two hours; now add some boiling water (to make gravy); add your green pease (half a peck before shelling); let these cook about twenty minutes; stir up a tablespoonful of flour into half a cup of milk and mix with the stew. Let this cook two minutes. Lamb Cutlets. Trim the slices free from fat, beat up the yolk of an egg with rasped bread or crackers, seasons with pepper and salt, dip in the cutlets and fry in butter gently, until thoroughly done. Boiled Breast of Mutton. Take out the bones, gristle, and some of the fat; flatten it on the kneading-board, and cover the surface thinly with a forcemeat made of bread crumbs, minced savory herbs, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt and an egg. The forcemeat should not be spread too near the edge, and when rolled, the breast should be tied securely, to keep the forcemeat in its place. If gently boiled, and served hot, it will be generally liked. Serve with good cape** sauce. Haunch of Mutton a la Venison. Mix two ounces of bay salt with half a pound of brown sugar; rub it well into the mutton, which should be placed in a deep dish 292 MEATS. for four days, and basted three or four times a day with the liquor that drains from it; then wipe it quite dry, and rub in a quarter of a pound more of sugar, mixed with a little common salt, and hang it up, haunch downwards; wipe it daily till it is used. In winter it should be kept two or three weeks and roasted in paste, like ven- son. Serve with currant jelly. The paste (made with flour and water) should be removed fifteen minutes before serving. Breast of Mutton with Pease. Cut about two pounds of the breast of mutton into small square pieces. Put them into a stewpan with about an ounce of butter, and brown them nicely, then cover with weak broth or water, and stew for an hour. Remove the meat from the stewpan, and clear the gravy from fat. Put the meat into a clean stewpan, add an onion or shallot sliced finely, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pepper and salt, and strain the gravy over all. Stew for another hour, then put in a quart of young pease, and serve in about twenty minutes. Macaroni may be used in the place of pease. Mutton Curried. Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan, and chop fine, or pound in a mortar four onions; add the onions to the butter with an ounce of curry powder, a teaspoonful of salt, a dessertspoonful of flour, and half a pint of cream; stir until smooth. Fry two pounds of mutton — cut in neat pieces without bone — to a light brown color. Lay the meat into a clean stewpan, and pour the curry mixture over; simmer until the meat is done. Mutton Chops. First select well-fed mutton, but not too fat, and get the chops evenly cut; if not, beat them into shape with the chopper. Not more than one-third of the chop should be fat. Put an ounce of butter or lard into the frying-pan; when it is entirely melted seize the chop at the bone end with a fork, and dip it for half a minute into the fat, then turn on one side, sprinkle with salt and pepper, MEATS. 293 and if liked, finely-chopped shallot or onion, and savory herbs. In three minutes turn, and serve the other side the same; equalize the cooking by frequent turning, but give the chop altogether not more than ten minutes. A piece of garlic, if the flavor be approved, may be rubbed across the dish when hot, or it may be rubbed lightly across the chop. Serve with plain or maitre d'hotel butter. Mutton Cutlets a la Minute. The mutton for these cutlets should be cut from the middle of the leg, and sliced thin; season slightly with salt and pepper. Fry the meat quickly over a brisk fire, to make it crisp, turning it often. Let the cutlets be kept warm in the oven while the gravy is pre- paring. Have ready some mushrooms, chopped with a shallot, a sprig or two of parsley and thyme, minced fine. Stew these in the butter for a few minutes, and season with salt and pepper; add flour and water, strain and serve round the cutlets. Mutton Cutlets and Puree of Potatoes. Boil or steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, mash them smooth, put them into a stewpan with two or three ounces of butter, two or three tablespoonfuls of cream or broth, pepper and salt; make them hot, and pile them in the center of a hot dish. The cutlets may be bread-crumbed and fried, or, if preferred, broiled and served round the puree. Boiled Leg of Mutton. Cut off the shank bone, put it into a large stewpan or kettle, with as much boiling water as will cover it. When restored to its boil- ing state, skim the surface clean, and set the stewpan back and allow the contents to simmer until done. Allow for a leg of mut- ton of nine or ten pounds, from two and a half to three hours from the time it boils. Boil very young turnips for a garnish, also boil larger turnips to mash. Place the young turnips, which should be of equal size, round the dish with the mutton and send the mashed ones to the table separately. Melted butter, with capers added, 294 MEATS. should accompany the dish. The liquor from the boiling may be converted into good soup at a trifling expense. Mutton Kebbobed. Take a loin of mutton; joint well; take the following dressing and put between each joint: Two tablespoonfuls chopped parsley, a little thyme, a nutmeg grated, a cup of bread crumbs; mix well with two eggs; roast one hour. If there is a large flap to the loin, some of the dressing may be put in and then skewered securely. Leg of Mutton, To Carve. The leg of mutton comes to the table as shown in Fig. 1. Take the carving fork, as usual, in your left hand, and plant it firmly in tbe joint, as shown by A, in Fig. 1, placing it rather over to the other side of the joint, and drawing the leg over toward you on the dish about one-third, which brings the position of the fork from A to B. Cut straight down across the joint at the line marked C, not quite to the bone. Make the second cut a little on the slant, as shown in D, and take the piece out; continue cutting from each *ide slantingly as the line marked D, either from the thick or the knuckle end, ac- cording to the taste of the per- son to be helped. A very small piece of the fat should be given with each slice of meat to those who like it. The knuckle, if any one asks for it, is first cut off in a lump, as shown by the circular line at F, and after- wards in slices. Mutton should be cut thick, but it should not be «ut to the bone; the slice in the centre should not penetrate so far MEATS. 295 as the circular kernel of fat found there, and called the "pope's eye," which is generally considered best to leave for hashing. The back of a leg of mutton is not generally cut until cold, when it is best sliced lengthwise, as shown in Fig. 2 ; the meat is still cut thick, but not quite so thick as in the cuts previously described. Cold mutton should be served with mashed potatoes and pickles, and the re- mains hashed, as there is much left on the bone that c does not cut up well hot or ^^g/t^^^^^ ~"j2Et/, cold. There is a part called H~ the " crump bone " in a leg of mutton, which may be removed by a circular cut from H to J in Fig. 2; it is usually relished cold. Fig. 2 shows the joint when turned three parts over, held by the fork as previously described, and the dotted line at J indicates the direc- tion of the first cut. Roast Leg of Mutton. Get a leg of about eight pounds, which has hung at least a week, weather allowing. During hot summer weather this joint gets quickly tainted. Rub it lightly with salt, and put it at once into a hot oven for the first few minutes, then allow the oven to cool, and roast more slowly until done. Baste continually with a little good dripping until that from the joint begins to flow. When within twenty minutes to being done, dredge it with flour, and baste with butter or dripping; and when the froth rises serve on a hot dish. Make a gravy and pour round the meat, not over it. Mutton Cutlets with Provtncale Sauce. Use one-fourth of a medium-sized onion, tablespoonful of butter; put over the fire and gradually add a spoonful of flour, cup of 296 MEATS. water, one-half cup thyme, season with pepper and salt and stir constantly; add the yolks of two raw eggs and cook until about as thick as cream. This sauce can be used on cold meats, or in cook- in «■ raw meat. When used in cooking cutlets or other meats, the meats should be very slightly cooked on both sides in a hot skillet, then have a pot of fat large enough for the meat to swim in. Dip the cutlets in the sauce and put them in the boiling fat. Take them out and roll in cracker dust and bread crumbs; put them back, and do this occasionally until the meat floats on top of the fat. They are then done. Pork — To Keep Fresh in Summer. Take pork, when killed in the early part of the winter, and let it lie in pickle about a week or ten days, or until just sufficiently salted to be palatable; then slice it up and fry it about half or two- thirds as much as you would for present eating; now lay it away in its own grease, in jars properly covered, in a cool place, as you would lard. Re-fry when ready to use. Pork, to Cook. Large pork, such as portions of the shoulder, loin, or spare-rib, of large bacon hogs, may be cooked as follows: Rub the joint with pepper and salt, and put it into a large saucepan with a closely- fitting lid. When nearly done,, add two or three onions and carrots, with half a dozen sticks of celery, four sage leaves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of marjoram and thyme, and as much stock or water as will cover the whole. Le$ the liquors boil up; skim carefully; then set back and simmer gently for three or four hours, according to size of joint. When the pork is done enough, lift it out, put the vegetables round it, strain and thicken a portion of the gravy, and pour it boiling hot over the poi-k. When the pork is removed from the table, trim it neatly and place on a clean dish to be eaten cold, or thicken the rest of the gravy and pour over the meat to be warmed over. MEATS. 297 Pork, Belly Rolled and Boiled. Salt a belly of pork — young meat is the best — by mixing a salt- spoonful of powdered saltpetre with two tablespoonf uls of common salt, sprinkle the mixture over the pork, and let it lie for three days. When ready to dress the meat, wash it in cold water, and dry it with a cloth. Lay it, skin downwards, on the table, remove the bones, and cover the inside with pickled gherkins cut into thin slices. Sprinkle over these a little powdered mace and pepper. Roll the meat tightly and bind securely with tape. Put it into a saucepan with two onions stuck with six cloves, three bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Bring the liquid slowly to a boil, skim carefully, draw it to the back of stove, and simmer gently till the meat is done enough. Put it between two dishes, lay a weight upon it, and leave it until quite cold. The bandages should not be removed until the meat is ready to be served. Time to simmer, half an hour per pound. Pork Brawn. Take a small pig's head with the tongue, and two pig's feet. Clean and wash them, sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of salt over them, and let them drain until the following day; dry them with a soft cloth and rub into them a powder made of six ounces of common salt, six ounces of moist sugar, three-quarters of an ounce of saltpetre, and three-quarters of an ounce of black pepper. Dry the powder well, and rub it into every part of the head, tongue, ears, and feet; turn them over and rub them again every day for ten days. Wash the pickle from them, cut off the ears, and boil the feet and ears an hour and a half; then put in the head and tongue, cover with cold water, and boil until the meat will leave the bones. Take them up, drain, cut the meat into small pieces; first remove all bones, and skin the tongue. Season the mince with a teaspoonful of white pepper, three saltspoonfuls of powdered mace, one saltspoonful each of powdered nutmeg and Cayenne. Stir all well together, press the meat while warm into a brawn tin, and lay a heavy weight 298 MEATS. on the lid. Put it in a cool place until the following day; dip the mold in boiling water, turn the brawn out, and serve with vinegar and mustard. Pork Chops, Broiled. Cut the chops rather less than half an inch thick. Have a clear fire; make the gridiron hot before putting the chops on it; pepper the chops, and when nearly done sprinkle salt, and a little powdered sage over them. Let them be done through, turn frequently, and serve hot. Tomato sauce eats well with pork chops. Pork Chops, Fried. Cut pork chops a half an inch in thickness; trim them neatly; sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and pepper. Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, put the chops in it and fry them until they are thoroughly done. If liked, a little powdered sage may be sprinkled over them before serving. Send apple sauce to table with them. Pork Cutlets, Broiled. Pork cutlets are best taken from the neck or fore loin of small dairy-fed pork, not very fat. Neatly trim them. Score the skin at regular intervals and flatten the cutlets with a cutlet-bat. Brush them over with oil, season with salt and pepper, and place them on a hot gridiron over a clear fire. Turn them occasionally, that they may be equally browned on both sides, and let them be thoroughly cooked. Put them on a hot dish, and send tomato, piquant or any appropriate sauce to table with them. Leg of Pork, Good as Goose. Parboil a leg of pork and take off the skin. Make a stuffing as follows: Mince two ounces of onion very finely; mix with it half a chopped apple, four ounces of bread crumbs, half a dozen chopped sage leaves, an ounce of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Make a slit in the knuckle, put the stuffing into it, and fasten securely. Put the pork into the oven and baste liberally. Half an hour before it is taken MEATS. ?99' up, sprinkle over it a savory powder made of two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs mixed witb one tablespoonful of powdered sage, and a little pepper and salt. Do not baste the meat after the powder is put upon it. Serve with good brown gravy and apple sauce. Pork Cutlets, Fried. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and stir into it a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonf ul each of chopped sage, and minced shallot. Move these ingredients about for a few minutes, then add a little salt and pepper, and two well-beaten eggs. Dip the cutlets first into this mixture, then into finely-grated bread crumbs, and let them stand ten minutes. Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, fry the cutlets in it, and when thoroughly done, serve with a good brown sauce. Boiled Leg of Pork with Pease Pudding. Take a leg of pork and rub it over with salt; put it into a vessel and cover with salt and let it stand for ten days. At the end of that time boil it in soft water, and serve with cabbage all round it, and a pease pudding made as follows: Take a quart of dry pease, wash them, tie them in a clean bag, and boil with the pork. When the pease are done, strain them through a colander, put in a large lump of butter, some salt, and two yolks of eggs, and put back into the bag, and boil again for half an hour. The pease must be put into- cold soft water for two hours before being boiled, otherwise they tvill never boil tender. Pork Pies. Make a crust as for chicken pies. Cut the meat into pieces the size of a small nut, and keep the lean and fat separate. Season the whole with pepper and salt and a teaspoonf ul of powdered sage. Pack the fat and lean closely into the pie in alternate layers until it is filled; put on the top crust and ornament according to taste; brush over with well-beaten egg, and bake in a slow oven as the meat is solid and requires to be cooked through, the outside pieces will be hard unless cut very small and pressed closely together. Take the 300 MEATS. bones and trimmings of the pork and stew them to make gravy; boil it until it will jelly when cold, strain, thicken and flavor, and when the pie is done raise the top crust and fill it with the gravy, and send the balance of the gravy to table in a tureen. Roast Loin of Pork. Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork at equal distances about a ■quarter of an inch apart. Brush it over with salad oil, season with salt and pepper, and place in a moderate oven. Baste liberally with butter or dripping at first, and when done serve on a hot dish, and serve with brown gravy and apple sauce. If liked, a little sage and onion stuffing may be served on a separate dish. Pork Cake. Cut the meat, fat and lean, from a cold joint of roast pork, and mince it very finely; mix with it a couple of large potatoes freshly boiled and mashed, a little salt and pepper, a chopped onion, and a little powdered sage. Add two or three eggs, a little milk, suffi- cient to make a very thick batter. Fry the cake like an omelet, or bake in a buttered dish. Serve with pickled onions or gherkins. Pork Sausages. Have two-thirds lean and one-third fat pork; cnop very fine. Season with one teaspoonful pepper, one of salt, three of pow- dered sage to every pound of meat. Warm the meat so that you can mix it well with your hands, do up a part in small patties, with a little flour mixed with them, and the rest pack in jars. When used, do it up in small cakes, flour the outside and fry in butter, or alone. They should not be covered, or they will fall to pieces. A little cinnamon to a part of them will be a pleasant addition. They should be kept where it is cool, but not damp. They are very nice for breakfast. Pork and Beans. Take two pounds side pork, not too fat nor too lean, and two quarts of marrowfat beans; put the beans to soak the night before MEATS. 301 you boil them in a gallon of milk- warm water. After breakfast, scald and scrape the rind of the pork, and put on to boil an hour before putting in the beans; as soon as the beans boil up, pour off the water and put on one gallon of fresh water; boil until quite tender, adding more water if necessary; great care must be taken that they do not scorch. When nearly as stiff as mashed potatoes, put into a baking-dish, score the pork and put in the center; brown in the oven one hour. If preferred use corned beef instead of pork. Pressed Head. Boil the several parts of the entire head and the feet, in the same way as for souse. All must be boiled so perfectly tender that the meat will separate easily from the bones. After neatly separated, chop the meat fine while warm, seasoning with salt, pepper, and other spices, to taste. Put it in a strong bag, place a weight on it and let it remain till cold. Or put it in any convenient dish, placing a plate with a weight on it to press the meat. Cut in slices, roll in flour, and fry in lard. Boiled Pig's Feet. Take the fore feet, cut off the hocks, clean and scrape them well; place two feet together and roll them up tightly in common mus- lin; tie or sew them so that they will keep in perfect shape, and boil them seven hours on a moderate fire — they will then be very soft; lift them out carefully and let them cool off; then remove the muslin and you will find them like jelly. Serve with vinegar, or split them and roll in bread crumbs or cracker dust, and fry or broil them. Serve with a little tart sauce. Pig's Foot Cheese. Boil the hocks and feet of equal quantity loose in a pot till the meat will fall freely from the bones; season well with pepper and salt; put into a pan while hot and press it. Cut in slices and serve with vinegar or Worcestershire sauce. Both of the above are great delicacies if properly cooked. 302 MEATS. To Roast a Sucking Pig. If you can get it when first killed this is of great advantage Let it be scalded, which the dealers usually do; then put some sage, a large piece of stalish bread, salt and pepper in the inside and sew it up. Observe to skewer the legs back, or the underpart will not crisp. Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter in a dry cloth and rub the pig with it in every part. Dredge as much flour over it as will possibly lie, and do not touch it again till ready to serve; then scrape off the flour very carefully with a blunt knife, rub the pig well with a buttered cloth, and take off the head while at the fire; take out the brains and mix them with the gravy that comes from the pig. Then take it up and cut it down the back and breast, lay it into the dish and chop the sage and bread quickly as fine as you can, and mix them with a large quantity of melted butter, that has a very little flour. Put the sauce into the dish after the pig has been split down the back and garnished with the ears and the two jaws; take off the upper part of the head down to the snout. In Devonshire it is served whole, if very small, the head only being cut off to garnish with as above. It will require from an hour to an hour and a half to roast, accord- ing to size. To Cure Hams. Take coarse salt, with a sprinkle of saltpetre, pepper and sugar; powder and mix; rub this in well a few times; smoke and wrap closely in paper of four folds or more; pack in dry ashes four inches thick around each ham. They will keep through the. hottest of weather and be as good as new. Ham Pie. Make a crust the same as for soda biscuit, line your dish, put in a layer of potatoes, sliced thin, pepper, salt, and a little butter, then a layer of lean ham; add considerable water, and you will have an excellent pie. MEATS. 303 Boned Ham; Fine Substitute for Turkey. Take a good salted but unsmoked ham, remove the bone so as to leave the meat as solid as possible. In place of the bone put dressing made same as for turkey, and bake. It is good hot or cold. Baked Ham. Make a thick paste of flour (not boiled) and cover the ham with it, bone and all; put in a pan on a spider or two muffin rings, or anything that will keep it an inch from the bottom, and bake in a hot oven. If a small ham, fifteen minutes for each pound; if large, twenty minutes. The oven should be hot when put in. The paste forms a hard crust around the ham and the skin comes off with it. Try this and you will never cook a ham any other way. Smoked Meat on Toast. Take a cold smoked tongue or ham that has been well boiled, and grate it with a coarse grater or mince it fine, mix it with cream and beaten yolk of egg, and let it simmer over the fire. Prepare some nice slices of toast, butter them rather slightly, lay them in a flat dish that has been heated over the fire, and cover each slice with the meat mixture, which should be spread on hot. Place on the table in a covered dish, for either breakfast or supper. PIam and Eggs. Cut the ham into thin slices and broil, and spread over it a little butter. Poach the eggs in salted water and lay neatly upon the ham. Boiled Ham. Soak twenty -four hours; put into a pot with cold water and boil gently for five or six hours; take it off the fire and let it remain in the water until cold. Peel off the skin and sprinkle with bread or ■cracker crumbs, and brown in the oven. Slice very thin for the iable. $04 MEATS. Ham Balls. Take one-half cup of bread crumbs and mix with two eggs well beaten; chop fine some bits of cold boiled ham and mix with them. Make into balls and fry. Ham Garnishing and Ornamenting. The usual way of finishing a ham, when it is not glazed, is to draw off the skin carefully, dredge bread raspings all over the fat, and put the ham in the oven to become brown and crisp. Fasten a frill of white paper round the bone, and garnish with parsley or cut vegetables. To Glaze Hams. Remove the rind by caking hold of the thick end first. Trim it neatly, put it in the oven for a few minutes; and press a cloth over it to dry it; brush it over with a paste brush dipped in glaze (a strong clear gravy boiled down as thick as syrup). To melt the glaze, put the jar which contains it into a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until dissolved. Brush the ham with two or three coats. Collared Breast of Veal. Bone a breast of veal; lay it on the table and spread on it a thick layer of oyster forcemeat [See oyster forcemeat); roll the veal as tightly as possible, and bind it with a tape. - Put it into boiling water; let it boil up once; skim the liquor carefully; set the sauce- pan back and simmer the contents gently until done; put the bones into a separate saucepan with a moderate-sized onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt; let them simmer till the liquor is strong and pleasantly flavored; strain it, thicken with a little flour and butter, and stir into it two or three tablespoonfuls of thick cream, or, if milk has to be used, beat into it the yolk of MEATS 305 an egg. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. This dish may be garnished with forcemeat balls, and with the sweetbreads cut into slices, egged, and bread-crumbed and fried; or a little parsley and sliced lemon may be used instead. The meat may be baked instead of boiled, and then a little weak stock should be put into the pan with it, and it should be basted frequently. Boiled Breast of Veal. If the sweetbread is to be boiled with the veal, let it soak in water for a couple of hours; then skewer it to the veal. Put this into a saucepan, with boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, and care- fully remove the scum as it rises; add a handful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of pepper-corns, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Draw it back, and then simmer gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, and pour a little good onion sauce or parsley sauce over it. Send boiled bacon to the table on a separate dish. The sweetbread may, of course, be dressed separately. Ragout op Breast of Veal. Take off the under bone, and put the veal into a stewpan with as much boiling stock as will cover it; let the liquor boil up, then add a large carrot, sliced, three onions, a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, the thin rind of a lemon, and pepper and salt; skim the gravy and simmer it gently until the veal is quite tender- Thicken the gravy till it is of the consistency of sauce, and stir into it the strained juice of a lemon and a glass of sherry or Madeira. Put the veal into a dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with savory forcemeat balls and slices of lemon. Roasted Breast of Veal. If the sweetbread is retained, skewer it to the back; season and cover with a buttered paper. Put it into a moderate oven and baste liberally till it is done. When it is roasted about an hour and a half, remove the paper, flour the joint and let it brown. Serve on a hot dish with melted butter poured over. Garnish with sliced 20 306 MEATS. lemon. Forcemeat balls may be served with the veal and mush- room sauce sent to the table with it. Time, twenty minutes to the pound. Bubble and Squeak of Veal. Take the remains of cold veal; cut the meat into neat slices; fry them in hot fat; put them where they will keep hot. Take some boiled spinach, fry this, also, and when it is quite hot, pile it on a dish and arrange the pieces of meat around it. Send tomato or any kind of piquant sauce to table with it. Veal Cake. Butter a plain earthenware dish or mold; fill it with alternate layers of hard-boiled yolks of eggs, chopped parsley, and veal and ham, minced, seasoned highly, mixed thoroughly and beaten to a smooth paste. Pour a spoonful or two of seasoned stock upon the meat, cover the pan closely and bake in a gentle oven. When done enough, press firmly into the mold, put a plate with a weight upon it, and let it remain untouched until cold. Turn it out, garnish with parsley, and serve for luncheon or supper. Time to bake, about one hour. Veal Scallop. Chop fine some cold veal, and put a layer in the bottom of a pudding dish, and season with pepper and salt. Next put a layer of finely powdered crackers, and strew some bits of butter over it and wet with a little milk; then more veal, seasoned as before, and another round of cracker crumbs with butter and milk. When the dish is full, wet well with gravy or broth, and spread over all a thick layer of cracker, seasoned with salt, wet into a paste with milk and a beaten egg or two, and stick bits of butter thickly over it, and cover and bake a half or three-quarters of a hour; then remove the cover and brown nicely. Calf's Head, Boiled. Take a calf's head, cut it in two, and take out the brains; wash the head in several waters, and let it soak in warm water for a MEATS. 307 quarter of an hour. Place it in a saucepan of cold water, and when the water comes to the boil, skim carefully; season when nearly - and this is done in the direction of A to B, only dividing the joint with a knife. The four quarters having been removed in this way, take off the merry -thought and the neck bones; these last are to be removed by putting the knife in at C and pressing it, when they will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. Next separate the breast from the body of the fowl by cutting through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tad. Turn the fowl now back upwards; put the knife into the bone midway between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn the rump from you and take off very neatly the two sidesmen, which completes the operation. The breast and wings are considered the best parts -of a roast fowl, but in young fowls the legs are most juicy. In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off the breast. Croquettes. Chop fine any cold pieces of cooked meat or chicken, or whatever you may wish to use, first removing all fat, bone, etc. ; add half the quantity of fine bread crumbs, one egg, pepper and salt; make into balls and cook in a buttered spider; serve hot. POULTRY. 317 To Carve Roast Goose. Begin by turning the neck end of a goose toward you, and cut- ting the whole breast in lcng slices, from one wing to another. (See the lines A B.) To take off the leg, insert the fork in the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body; put the knife in at A, turn the leg back, and if the bird be young it will easily come away; if old, we will not answer for it. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; put the knife in at B and divide the joint. When the leg and wing are off one side, attack those on the other; but, except when the company is very large, it is seldom necessary to cut up the whole goose. The back and lower side-bones, as well as the two side-bones of the wings, may be cut off; but the best pieces of a goose are the breast and thighs, after being separated from the drumstick. Serve a little of the seasoning from the inside, by making a circular slice in the apron at C. Should there be no stuffing, a glass of wine, a little orange gravy or vinegar, may be poured into the body of the goose at the open- ing made at the apron by the carver. To Boil Goose. Pick and singe a goose carefully. Let it soak in lukewarm milk jnd water for eight or ten hours. Stuff and truss it securely; put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it; bring to a boil, and let it simmer gently till done enough. Send good onion sauce to the table with it. Time, from an hour to an hour and a half after it has boiled. Roast Goose. Pluck the goose, carefully remove the quill-sockets and singe off the hairs; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long 318 POULTRY. enough to turn over. After drawing, wash and wipe the bird both inside and out, and cut off the feet and pinions at the first joint; pull out the throat and tie the end securely; beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin; draw the legs up closely, and put a skewer through them and through the body; cut off the end of the vent and make a hole in the skin large enough for the rump to go through. This will prevent the seasoning from escaping. Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, .onions and potatoes cut fine; season with pepper, salt, sage, and butter the size of an egg; fill the goose and tie down the wings; roast two hours and a half. Boil the liver and heart and add to the gravy, which must be th'ckened with flour. Send to table with apple sauce and mashed potatoes. Stuffing with Sage and Onion. Boil four large onions until tender; drain them from the water, and mince them finely with four fresh sage leaves, or six dry ones, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of salt, a tea- spoonful of made mustard, and a teaspoonful of moist. sugar, one- half teaspoonful of pepper, a large apple, pared and cored, and a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, may be added, if approved. Turkey. The turkey is highly esteemed and usually commands a high price, especially at Christmas, when most extravagant prices are often demanded and obtained for large and well-fed birds. Turkeys are in season from September to March, and are at their best in December and January. If the weather is suitable they should be hung fully a week before being di-essed. In' very cold weather care must be taken that they are not frozen in hanging, and if this is the case, they should be brought into a warm place for some hours before being cooked, or they will be spoilt. The hen bird is considered the best. "The turkey is the largest and, if not the most delicate, at least the most savory, of domestic poultry. It enjoys the singular advantage of assembling around it every class of society. When POULTRY. 319 our farmers regale themselves on a winter's evening, what do we see roasting before the kitchen fire, close to which the white-clothed table is set ? A turkey. When the useful tradesman or the hard- worked artist invites a few friends to an occasional treat, what dish is he expected to set before them ? A nice roast turkey, stuffed with sausage meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our highest gastronomical society, when politics are obliged to give way to dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, what is awaited, what is looked out for at the second course? A truffled turkey. In my ' Secret Memoirs ' I find sundry notes recording that on many occasions its restorative juice has illuminated diplomatic faces of the highest eminence." Carving of Turkey. The breast of a turkey is so large that slices taken neatly from it and' from the wings generally suffice for all the company. They should be taken from each side alternately, beginning close to the wings, and a little forcemeat and a small portion of liver should be served to each guest. When it is necessary that the legs should be used, they should be separated from the body with a sharp knife and cut in slices, but it should be remembered that they, with the gizzard, will make an excellent devil. Boiled Turkey or Cafotst. When the poultry is plucked quite clean and singed, see that it is neatly trussed, and, before finally closing the vent, stuff the bird inside with as many raw oysters of the best quality as can be pro- cured, adding to the same a lump of fresh butter, and a portion of bread crumbs from a stale loaf. Remove the turkey or capons into a clean cloth, fold them up carefully, place them into a saucepan of cold water, and let them boil over a moderately-heated fire until they are thoroughly done. Have a stick of white blanched Celery at hand and chop it up very small; place it in a quart of new milk in a saucepan, and let it boil gently with a few black pepper corns, till the quantity is reduced to one pint; keep stirring the esculent 320 POULTRY. up with the milk until it assumes the character of a consistent pulp. Thicken the whole with the yolk of a fresh egg, well beaten up, with half a cup of fresh cream. Have upon the table a sauce-boat of strong veal gravy. Roast Turkey. A young turkey, weighing not more than eight or nine pounds, is the best. Wash and clean thoroughly, wiping dry, as moisture will spoil the stuffing. Take one small loaf of bread grated line, rub into it a piece of butter the size of an egg, one small teaspoon- ful of pepper and one of salt; sage, if liked. Rub all together, and fill only the breast of the turkey, sewing up so that the stuffing cannot cook out. Always put the giblets under the side of the fowl, so they will not dry up. Rub salt and pepper on the outside; put into dripping-pan with one cup of water, basting often, and turn- ing it till brown all over. Bake about three hours. Have left in, the chopping-bowl a little stuffing; take out the giblets and chop fine. After taking out the turkey, put in a large tablespoonful of flour; stir until brown. Put the giblets into a gravy-boat, and pour ovei them the gravy. Roast Turkey, No. 2. Rinse out the turkey well with soda and water, then with salt, lastly with clear water. Stuff with a dressing made of bread crumbs, wet up with butter and water and season to your taste. Stuff the craw and tie up the neck. Fill the body and sew up the vent. We need hardly say that the strings are to be clipped and removed after the fowl has been roasted. Tie the legs to the lower part of the body that they may not " sprawl " as the sinews shrink. Put into the dripping-pan, pour a cup of boiling water over it, and roast, basting often, allowing about ten minutes' time for every pound. Be careful not to have your oven too hot — especially for the first hour or so. The turkey would, otherwise, be dry and blackened on the outside a'ld raw within. Much of the perfection of roasting poultry depends upon basting faithfully. Boil the POULTRY. 321 giblets tender in a little water. When the turkey is done, set it where it will keep warm; skim the gravy left in the pan; add a little boiling water; thicken slightly with browned flour; boil up once and add the giblets minced fine. Season to taste; give another boil, and send to table in a gravy-boat. Boiled Turkey. Stuff the turkey as for roasting. A very nice dressing is made by chopping half a pint of oysters and mixing them with bread crumbs, butter, pepper, salt, thyme, and wet with milk or water. Baste about the turkey a thin cloth, the inside of which has been dredged with flour, and put it to boil in cold water with a tea- spoonful of salt in it. Let a large turkey simmer for three hours. Skim while boiling. Serve with oyster sauce, made by adding to a cup of the liquor in which the turkey was boiled the same quantity of milk and eight oysters chopped fine; season with minced parsley, stir in a spoonful of rice or wheat flour wet with cold milk; a table- spoonful of butter. Boil up once and pour into a tureen. Turkey Dressed with Oysters. For a ten-pound turkey take two pints of bread crumbs, half a cup of butter cut in bits (not melted), one teaspoon ful of powdered thyme or summer savory, pepper, salt, and mix thoroughly. Rub the tui'key well inside and out with salt and pepper, then fill with first a spoonful of crumbs, then a few well-drained oysters, using half a can for a turkey. Strain the oyster liquor and use to baste the turkey. Cook the giblets in the pan, and chop fine for the gravy. A fowl of this size will require three hours in a moderate oven. Deviled Turkey. The legs, back, gizzard and rump of cold dressed turkey may be used for this dish. Suore the meat along in a cross at regular dis- tances, three-quarters of an inch apart, and three-quarters of an inch deep. Rub into the gashes a well-mixed seasoning made of a saltspoonful of white pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of a 21 322 POULTRY. saltspoonful of Cayenne, and the strained juice of a lemon, and cover with freshly-made mustard. Brush the pieces of meat over with butter or oil and broil over a clear fire till they are brown and crisp without being at all burnt, and turn them over that they may be equally done on both sides. Send to table on hot dish with little pieces of butter on them. Dry toast may be served as an accompaniment. The devil will be all the more savory if it is pre- pared some hours before it is broiled. If liked, half a clove of garlic may be minced and mixed with the seasoning. Turkey Scallop. Pick the meat from the bones of cold turkey, and chop it fine. Put a layer of bread crumbs on the bottom of a buttered dish, moisten them with a little milk, then put in a layer of turkey with some of the filling, and cut small pieces of butter over the top; sprinkle with pepper and salt; then another layer of bread crumbs, and so on until the dish is nearly full; add a little hot water to the gravy left from the turkey, and pour over it. Then take two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of milk, one of melted butter, a little salt, and cracker crumbs as much as will make it thick enough to spread on with a knife, put bits of butter over it, and cover with a plate. Bake three-quarters of an hour. About ten minutes before serving, remove the plate and let it brown. Plain Stuffing. Take stale bread, cut off all the crust, rub very fine and pour over it as much melted butter as will make it crumble in your hands; salt and pepper to taste. Apple Stuffing. Take half a pound of the pulp of tart apples which have been baked or scalded; add two ounces of bread crumbs, some powdered sage, a finely-shred onion; season well with Cayenne pepper. For roast goose, duck, etc. POULTRY. 323 Potato Stuffing. Take two-thirds bread and one-third boiled potatoes, grated, butter size of an egg, pepper, salt, one egg and a little ground sage; mix thoroughly. Chestnut Stuffing. Boil the chestnuts and shell them; then blanch them and boil until soft; mash them fine and mix with a little sweefe cream, some bread crumbs, pepper and salt. For turkey. For other stuffings, see " Forcemeats." CHAPTER XXV. SALADS. Anchovy Salad. 'ASH six anchovies in water, remove the bores and the lnsioes,, ^ and also the heads, fins, and tails. Put them on a dish with two large heads of lettuce, cut small, half a dozen young onions, a saltspoonful of chopped parsley, and a sliced lemon. Pour over them the juice of a lemon mixed with salad oil, and «end to table. Artichoke Salad. Wash thoroughly and quarter some very young artichokes, and serve them with salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil. They make a nice relish. Beetroot Salad. To some nicely-boiled and well-sliced beetroot, lay alternate rows of onions, also sliced, and pour over them any salad sauce, or simply oil and vinegar. Garnish with curled parsley. Celerv Salad. Cut nice blanched salad very small. Wash clean and dry it: pour over it a Mayonnaise sauce (See Savo?')/ Sauces), or any salad dressing, and garnish with green celery leaves. Chicken Salad. Use the white meat of two good-sized chickens, and celery enough to make the proportion one-third chicken and two-thirds celerv; boil ben eggs hard, rub the yolks perfectly smooth with a silver spoon, adding gradually four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one 38 1 SALADS. 325 tablespoonful of made mustard, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one tea- spoonful of black pepper, half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, and one tablespoonful of sugar; add sweet cream by degrees until about the consistency of batter. Just before sending to the table, mix the dressing with the chicken and celery, and moisten with sharp vinegar. The juice of two lemons is an improvement. Chicken Salad, No. 2. Boil the white meat of two large chickens; cut it coarse, and add the white part of celery, cut coarse; a little more chicken than celery. Dressing. — Three yolks of eggs, well beaten; one pint of oil added drop by drop, and beaten; the juice of two lemons, one tea- spoonful of dry mustard, a little Cayenne pepper, a little salt. If not moist enough, beat the whites of two eggs and add to it. Cabbage Salad. To a dish of chopped cabbage, four teaspoonfuls of celery seed, or one bunch of celery. Put in a bowl, yolks of two eggs, one tea- spoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of made mustard, one-half cup of vinegar. Set the bowl into hot water, and stir care- fully until it begins to thicken. Let it get cold, and pour over the ■cabbage. If it does not moisten it enough, put in a little more vinegar. Fish Salad. This consists of cold fish of any kind, mixed with well-dried salad, pickled gherkins, or any other green pickle. Oysters or shrimps may be added to the other fish, which should be separatee) neatly into flakes, and the whole moistened with a salad dressing. Garnish with some slices of lemon and parsley. Hot Egg Salad. Put a tablespoonful of salad oil in a nan and let it get hot. Break in three eggs; stir a little with r fork, but not enough to 326 SALADS. mix the yolks and whites; these should be kept separate. Put the eggs out on a dish, and put over them a tablespoonf ul of chopped pickle and a tablespoonful of grated lemon rind. Make a salad dressing of one tablespoonful of lemon-juice, three of salad oil, a saltspoonful of salt, and one-quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. Much of the niceness of this salad depends on its being served hot. Endive with Winter Salad. An ornamental and wholesome dish of salad may be made in winter principally by the aid of this plant. Only a little cress, celery, and beetroot will be necessary to form a striking contrast to the crisp, blanched leaves of the endive, which may be arranged (en bouquet) in the centre, or interspered with other materials, through the dish. Endive may be had good from November till March. Lettuce Salad. Wash and dry nice leaves of lettuce, and pour over a salad dressing, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Lettuce Salad, No. 2. Wash, dry, and shred nice leaves of lettuce, and put them in a salad bowl. Cut four ounces of bacon into dice; fry these with a finely-minced onion, and do not allow them to burn, add a little salt, if needed, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar; pour all over the lettuce and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately. Lobster Salad. Pick the meat from the body of a lobster, take out the tail part in one piece, and cut it, with the contents of the claws, into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Chop the whites of two hard-boiled eggs small, and rub the yolks smooth. Do the same with the spawn or coral of the lobster, but mix the soft part and any bits with the sauce. Pour the sauce into the bowl, put in a layer of shred lettuce and small salad, and place the slices of lobster, with hard-boiled eggs SALADS. 327 quartered and interspersed, with sliced beetroot, cucumber, etc., on the top. Repeat in the same manner till the bowl is full, sprinkling the egg and coral over and between the layers. To ornament, reserve some of the hard-boiled eggs, yolks and whites, arrange these with the coral, beetroot, and sliced lobster, so that the colors may contrast well. Before serving, pour some Mayonnaise sauce over the top. Game Salad. Take the remains of cold cooked game, pick up fine, and cover with a dressing made as follows: Take the yolk of a hard-boiled egg and mix it smoothly with a tablespoonful of salad oil; stir in a little salt and pepper, a little made mustard, a dessertspoonful of walnut catsup, and three dessertspoonfuls of vinegar. Orange Salad. A very simple dish made of tart oranges. Some peeled and sliced and some sliced unpeeled, garnished with one tablespoonful of lemon-juice, three tablespoonf uls of salad oil and a little Cayenne pepper. This is a nice dish for breakfast, or with game or cold meats. The oil, lemon, juice and pepper should be mixed in a dish and poured over the oranges. Potato Salad. Take some cold boiled potatoes and slice very thin; add to them three hard-boiled eggs, also sliced thin; chop one small, fresh onion. In a glass bowl or salad dish put a layer of potatoes, then a layer of eggs, and sprinkle over them a little chopped onion, salt and pep- per. For dressing, take the yolk of a raw egg and stir into it half a teaspoonf ul of made mustard. Beat into it, drop by drop, three tablespoonf uls of sweet cream; add one tablespoonful of strong vinegar and the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth. If needed for supper make at noontime. Flakes of cold boiled salmon, cod, or halibut, substituted for the eggs, or added with them, will improve the salad. 328 SALADS. Salmon Salad. One can of fresh salmon, four bunches of celery; chop as for chicken salad; mix with the salmon, and pour salad dressing over it. Summer Salad. Cut up a pound of cold beef into thin slices, and half a pound of white, fresh lettuce; put in a salad bowl, season with a teaspoonful of salt, half that quantity of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and four of good salad oil. Stir all together lightly with a fork and spoon, and when well mixed it is ready to serve. Chaptal, a French chemist, says the dressing of a salad should be saturated with oil, and seasoned with pepper and salt, before the vinegar is added; it results from this process that there can never be too much vinegar, for, from the specific gravity of the vinegar compared with the oil, what is more than useful will fall to the bottom of the bowl, the salt should not be dissolved in the vinegar, but in the oil, by which means it is more equally distributed throughout the salad. Russian Salad. Any three kinds of vegetables may be used — carrots, turnips and beets; string beans, carrots and turnips; or carrots, turnips and parsnips. The vegetables should be cut in slices about one and a half inches thick. These slices should be cut into cylin- der-shaped pieces. This could be done with an apple-corer or with a knife. These pieces should be put in dishes, keeping each vege- table separate. As they are cut throw the pieces into cold water; take from the cold water and put into boiling water containing a spoonful of salt to a quart of water. Boil each vegetable by itself and boil until tender; drain off the juice and put the pieces into cold water until they are thoroughly cold. They are then ready to use for the salad. Beets must not be peeled or cut. Winn boiled tender the skins should be taken off by rubbing in a towel as soon as cool enough to handle, and then cut in pieces like the other vegetables. The pieces left after cutting out what is wanted can i SALADS. 329 "be saved by putting them in cold salt water. Pease, beans, spinach, and all vegetables, can be kept green by boiling and putting them in salt cold water until wanted to use. The dressing for the Russian salad is made plain, like that of orange salad, being a table- spoonful of lemon- juice or vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, salt and Cayenne pepper. It is best not to put on the dressing until ready to serve. Sidney Smith's Receipt for Salad Dressing. Two boiled potatoes, strained through a kitchen sieve, Softness and smoothness to the salad give; Of mordant mustard take a single spoon — Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; Yet deem it not, though man of taste, a fault, To add a double quantity of salt. Four times the spoon, with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town; True taste requires it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs. Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; And lastly, in the flavored compound toss A magic teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. Oh, great and glorious! oh, herbaceous meat! 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat; Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl. Vegetables and Salads. Upon the washing of green vegetables for salads much of their •excellence depends; they should be shaken about without breaking in a large pan of cold water well salted, since the action of the salt will destroy all the minute inhabitants of their fresh green coverts, and, once dead, from sheer force of gravity they will fall to the bottom of the water. When the salad plants are free from sand 330 SALADS. and insects they should be shaken without breaking their leaves, in a colander, a wire basket, or a dry napkin until no moisture adheres to them; then they may be used at once or kept until wanted in a very cold, dark place. Water- cress Salad. Gather the water-cress when young, cleanse it thoroughly in salt and water, and serve as fresh as possible. Place it in a bowl, either alone or mixed with other salad plants, and toss in lightly a simple salad sauce. When served at breakfast, water-cress is best sent to the table as it is, fresh and crisp. Salad Dressing. Take half a pint of vinegar and let it get hot; then beat up two eggs, half a tablespoonful of flour, half a tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of mustard, a little salt and pepper, and four table- spoonfuls of melted butter; stir this in the vinegar and let the whole boil up till it is like custard, then mix it with whatever you have for a salad. It is good for potatoes, meat or fish. Salad Dressing, No. 2. Yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, rubbed very fine and smooth, one teaspoonful English mustard, one of salt, the yolks of two raw eggs beaten into the other, dessertspoonful of fine sugar. Add very fresh sweet oil, poured in by very small quantities, and beaten as long as the mixture continues to thicken; then add vinegar till as thin as desired. If not hot enough with mustard, add a little Cayenne pepper. CHAPTER XXVI. SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. . Soups. ff HERE is no part of cookery which is so imperfectly understood by ordinary cooks as the preparation of a soup. Amongst the wealthy it is considered a necessity, and, as a matter of course, forms part of the dinner. Amongst the middle classes it is more usually served than it used to be, and is, year by year, increasingly appreciated; but amongst the lower classes it is all but scorned; and mistresses of small households will testify that the maid-of -all-work, who, when at home is half starved instead of being properly fed, will consider herself most hardly used if part of the provision of the day's dinner consists of a portion of wholesome soup. This opinion is, of course, a sign of ignorance. Soup is both nourishing and wholesome, and it may also be prepared economi- cally. With attention and a little trouble, it may be made from very inexpensive materials, and considering that when soup has been served, smaller inroads are made into the joint, the frugal housekeeper who has once calculated the difference in cost of a din- ner consisting of an economically made soup, meat and vegetables, and one of meat and vegetables only, will never object to the introduction of soup at her table on account of the expense. Soup may be made of a large variety of different articles, including meat of all kinds, bones, game, and poultry; fish, shell-fish, all kinds of vegetables, herbs, and farinaceous articles, milk, eggs, etc. The basis of all soup is stock. Instructions in making this will be found in its proper place, and it will, therefore, not be considered 331 332 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. here. Directions for making various soups will be found under their several headings; nevertheless, it may be found useful if a few rules of universal application are here given as an assistance in their manufacture. There are three kinds of soups — celery soup, thick soup and purees. A puree is made by rubbing the ingredients of which it is composed through a sieve. A thick soup is stock thickened by the addition of various thickening ingredients. These soups are best suited to the winter season. Clear soup is thin and bright, and adapted for use in the summer months. In making soup it is most important that every culinary article used should he perfectly clean. The inside of the covers of saucepans, the rims and the handles particularly require attention. The lid of the saucepan should never be removed over a smoky fire. The meat used should be freshly killed, and should be as lean as it can be procured; it should never be washed. The bones should be broken up into small pieces. Cold water should be put upon fresh meat and bones; boiling water (a small quantity at a time) upon meat or vegetables that have been fried or browned. As it is very important that no fatty particles should be left to float on the surface of the soup, this should be made, if possible, the day before it is wanted, so that the fat may be removed after it has grown cold. Soup should be simmered very softly till it is done enough. A large fire and quick boiling are the great enemies of good soup. In flavoring soup, the cook should be careful to add the seasoning ingredients in moderation and grad- ually, especially such things as garlic, onions, shallots, spices, herbs, salt and Cayenne. An overdose of salt has spoilt' many a dish of soup, while a deficiency thereof has again and again nullified the effect of the most delicate combination of flavors. As a general rule, two ounces of salt will suffice for a gallon of soup stewed with large quantities of vegetables; an ounce and a half only will be needed if the vegetables are omitted, or if a small quantity only is used. It should be remembered that salt and all seasonings can be added when they cannot be taken out. For flavoring purposes, SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 333 aromatic seasoning of herbs, and spices, and herb-powders for flavoring soups, will be found of great use. Whatever ingredients are added to soup, whether farinaceous articles, such as rice, ver- micelli, macaroni, etc., or vegetables, all should be partially boiled in plain water before they are put into the liquor. This will insure their being perfectly clean and bright. The flavor of rich brown soups will be brought out better if a small piece of sugar be added to it. This must not be used for white soups. Cream or milk, when put with soups, should be boiled separately, strained, and added boiling. If, instead of cream, milk and the yolk of an egg are used, the egg must on no account be boiled in the liquor. Either it must be mixed thoroughly with a little of the soup which has cooled for a minute, then, be stirred into the rest, or, better still, it must be put into the soup tureen, a spoonful of the soup mixed with the milk stirred into it, and the rest added gradually. If soups are to be kept for a few days they should be boiled up every day, according to the state of the weather, put into freshly- Bcalded dry earthenware crocks or pans and kept in a cool place; cover w ith a piece of gauze. Soup should never be kept in metal vessels. Stock. Stock is the basis of all meat sauces, soups and purees. - It is really the juice of meat extracted by long and gentle simmering, and in making it, it should be remembered that the object to be aimed at is to draw the goodness of the material out into the liquor. It may be prepared in various ways, richly and expensively, or economically. All general stock, or stock which is to be used for miscellaneous purposes, should be simply made, that is, all flavoring ingredients should be omitted entirely until its use is decided upon. The stock will then keep longer than it would do if vegetables, herbs, and spices were boiled in it, besides which the flavoring can be adapted to its special purpose. To ensure its keeping, stocks should be boiled and skimmed every day in summer, and every other day in winter. The pan and lid used in making it should be 334 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. scrupulously clean. A tinned iron pan is (he best for the purpose. Those who wish to practice economy should procure a digester, which is a kind of stock-pot made with the object of retaining the goodness of the materials, and preventing its escape by steam, when ready stock should he kept in an earthenware vessel, and never allowed to cool in a metal pan. Before being used, skim off all fat. Excellent stock is constantly made with the bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, with the addition or not of a little fresh meat, or a portion of extract of meat. In a house where meat is regularly used, a good cook will never be without a little stock. Broken remnants of all kinds will find their way to the stock-pot, and will not be thrown away until, by gentle stewing, they have been made to yield to the utmost whatever of flavor and goodness they possessed. When fresh meat is used it is better for being freshly killed. The liquor in which fresh meat has been hoiled should always be used as stock. Bean Soup. Soak one and a half pints of beans in cold water over night. In the morning drain off the water, wash the beans in fresh water and put them into a soup kettle with four quarts of good beef stock, from which all the fat has been removed. Set it where it will boil slowly but steadily until dinner, or three hours at the least. Two hours before dinner slice in an onion and a carrot. Some think it improved by adding a little tomato. If the beans are not liked whole, strain through a colander and send to the table hot. Asparagus Soup. Select about two dozen of good asparagus stalks; boil these thoroughly in enough water to cover them; a quarter of an onion boiled with the asparagus is an improvement. When tender, take the asparagus out of the water, saving the water, and removing the onion; cut the asparagus into small pieces, of course only the tender part, and put them in a mortar, adding a little of the water; must be pounded until perfectly smooth; now take some sifted SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 335 flour, a dessertspoonful, a bit of butter as big as an egg, and a very- little pulverized sugar; mix well, and then put on the fire until it melts, stirring all the time; add this to the pounded asparagus and the rest of the water; when it has boiled a tew minutes, mix the yolk of one egg with a tumblerful of cream, and add this; if properly made, it wants no straining; use salt and pepper to taste, and a very little nutmeg; one stalk of asparagus may be left, which may be cut in thin slices, and added last. Beep Soup. Boil a soup bone about four hours; then take out meat into a chopping-bowl ; put the bones back into the kettle. Slice very thin one small onion, six potatoes, and three turnips into the soup; boil until all are tender. Have at least one gallon of soup when done. It is improved by adding crackers, rolled, or noodles, just before taking off. Take the meat that has been cut from the bones, chop fine while warm, season with salt and pepper, add one cup of soup, saved out before putting in the vegetables; pack in a dish, and slice down for tea or lunch when cold. Commox Soup. Take shank or neck of beef or meat of fowls; cut fine; crack the bones; put in a pot and stew slowly several hours, until all the meats are cooked to shreds. Pour on a little boiling water and keep boiling until nearly ready to serve; skim off all grease; add vegetables, potatoes, carrots, barley or rice as you may prefer — the vegetables having been previously cooked by themselves — and then add a little butter to give it richness. Clam Soup. Select five large, plump clams, and after chopping them finely; add the liquor to the meat. To every dozen allow a quart of cold water, and, putting meat, liquor and water into a clean vessel, allow them to simmer gently, but not boil, about one and one-half hours. Every particle of meat should be so well cooked that you seem to 336 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. have only a thick broth. Season to taste and pour into a tureen in which a few slices of well-browned toast have been placed. If desired, to every two dozen of clams allow a cup of new milk and one egg. Beat the latter very light, add slowly the milk, beat hard a minute or so, and when the soup is removed from the fire, stir the egg and milk into it. Corn Soup. Twelve ears of corn scraped and the cobs boiled twenty minutes in one quart of water. Remove the cobs and put in the corn and boil fifteen minutes, then add two quarts of rich milk. Season with salt, pepper and butter, and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Boil the whole ten minutes and turn into a tureen in which the yolks of three eggs have been well beaten. French Vegetable Soup. To a leg of lamb of moderate size take four quarts of water. Of carrots, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, cabbage and turnips, take a cup each, chopped fine; salt and pepper to taste. Let the lamb be boiled in this water. Let it cool; skim off all fat that rises to the top. The next day boil again, adding the chopped vegetables. Let it boil three hours the second day. Egg Soup. Boil a leg of lamb about two hours in water enough to cover it. After it has boiled about an hour and when carefully skimmed, add one-half cup of rice, and pepper and salt to taste. Have ready in your tureen two eggs well beaten; add the boiling soup, a little at a time, stirring constantly. Serve the lamb with drawn butter, garnished with parsley and hard-boiled eggs cut into slices. Chicken Soup. Boil a pair of chickens with great care, skimming constantly and. keeping them covered with water. When tender, take out the chicken and remove the bone. Put a large lump of butter into a spider, dredge the chicken meat well with flour, and lay in the hot SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 337 pan; fry a nice brown, and keep hot and dry. Take a pint of the chicken water, and stir in two large spoonfuls of curry powder, two of butter and one of flour, one teaspoonful of salt and a little Cay- enne; stir until smooth, then mix it with the broth in the pot. When well mixed, simmer five minutes, then add the browned chicken. Serve with rice. Cabbage Soup. Put into your soup kettle a couple of pounds of sweet bacon or pork that has not been too long in salt. Add, if you like, a bit of knuckle of veal, or mutton, or beef, or all three; skim well as they come to a boil. Shred into a pail of cold water the hearts of one or two cabbages, some carrots, turnips, celery and leeks. When the soup boils, throw all these in. When the vegetables are tender without falling to pieces, the soup is*done. You may thicken vith a few mashed, boiled potatoes. Simmer the meat two hours before adding the vegetables. Green Pea Soup. Boil a pint of green pease in water with salt, a head of lettuce, an onion, a carrot, a few leaves of mint, and a strip of parsley, some pepper and salt to taste, and a lump of sugar. When thoroughly done, strain off the liquor and pass the pease, etc., through a hair sieve; add as much of the liquor as will bring it to the right con- sistency; put the soup in a saucepan with a small pat of fresh butter; let it boil up, and serve with dice-shaped bread fried in butter. Gumbo Soup. Cut up a pair of good-sized chickens, as for a fricassee; flour them well, and put into a pan with a good-sized piece of butter, and fry a nice brown; then lay them in a soup-pot, pour on three quarts of hot water, and let them simmer slowly for two hours. Braid a little flour and butter together for a thickening, ard stir in a little pepper and salt. Strain a quart or three pints f salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown sugar, stirring occasion- ally until boiling, and allowing it to simmer gently for three hours; at the end of which time the barley will be perfectly tender. The above soup has been tasted by numerous noblemen, members of Parliament, and several ladies, who have lately visited my kitchen department, and who have considered it very good and nourishing. The soup will keep several days when made as above described; but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, but within a flat vessel, when the air could act freely upon it. Stir it now and then until nearly cold, or otherwise the next day it will be in a state of fermentation. This does not denote the weakness of the soup, because the same evil exists in the strongest of stock, or sauce, if not stirred or confined in a warm place — a fact known to every first-rate cook. The expense may come to three farthings per quart in London; but as almost every thing can be had at less cost in the country, the price of the soup will be still more reduced. In that case, a little additional meat might be added. By giving with this a small portion of bread or biscuit, better support would be given to the poor at a trifling cost; and no one, it is to be hoped, here- after, would hear of the di-eadful calamity of starvation. Soup, No. 2. — Same Cost. Quarter of a pound of beef cut into pieces one inch square; two ounces of dripping, or melted suet, quarter of a pound of turnips, or carrots, cut into fragments half an inch square, four drops essence of meat, one and a half pounds of maize flour, three ounces of salt, quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, ground fine. Take two ounces of either drippings, Amer- ican lard, or suet, to which add the turnips and carrots; fry for ten minutes; add one quart of cold water, and the meal, well mixed, and moisten by degrees with seven quarts of hot water; boil five hours, and season with three ounces of salt, one-quarter ounce of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of black pepper, two drops of essence SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 345 of garlic, one drop of essence of mint, a little celery; stir quickly, and serve directly. By adding a pound of potatoes to this, a superior soup will be the result. Aspic Jelly for Garnishing. Take two pints of nicely-flavored stock, of a clear, firm jelly; put this into a saucepan with a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of vinegar and a glass of sherry. Let it boil; then stir into an ounce of the best gelatine, which has been soaked in a little cool water. When again cool, add the whisked whites of two eggs; let it boil; then set back to settle; strain through a jelly-bag until quM clear, and pour it on a dish which has been standing in cold watei. Cut it into dice for garnishing. Aspic Jellt, Stock. Put a knuckle-bone of veal, a knuckle-bone of ham, a calf's foot, a large onion with four cloves stuck in, one large carrot, and a bunch of savory herbs, in two quarts of water, and boil gently till it is reduced rather more than half; strain, and put it aside to cool. Very carefully remove every particle of fat or sediment, and place the jelly in a saucepan with a glass of white wine, a tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and the whites of two eggs; keep stirring until it nearly boils, which may be known by its becoming white; then draw it back and let "it simmer gently for fifteen or twenty minutes; put on the cover, let it stand to settle, and strain through a jelly-bag until it is quite clear. Put it into a mold. Bechamel Sauce. As white stock is the foundation of this sauce, it must be pre- pared first. Boil down an old fowl, two or three pounds of the knuckles of veal and three of very lean harm, with four carrots, two onions, one blade of mace, some white pepper-corns, two table- spoonfuls of salt and an ounce of butter, in four or five quarts of water. Cut up the fowl and veal, and put them with the ham to 346 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. simmer in a small quantity of water till the juices are extracted 5 then put in the full quantity of water, about three and one-half quarts, to the other ingredients. Let the liquid simmer from four to five hours; skim and strain till clear, when it is ready for the bechamel. Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot with a pint of cream, and when well blended, let it simmer in a carefully cleaned pan for four or five minutes. Make one pint of the stock hot and pour it to the cream; simmer slowly for ten minutes, or until it thickens. If too thick, add a little stock. Anchovy Sauce. An easy way of making anchovy sauce is to stir two or three teaspoonfuls of prepared essence or paste of anchovy (which may be bought at your grocers) into a pint of melted butter; let the sauce boil a few minutes and flavor with lemon-juice. Bread Sauce. Take one pint of white stock; boil with an onion, a little mace, pepper-corns and salt; strain and pour it over six ounces of bread crumbs; boil for ten minutes and add three tablespoonfuls of cream. Brown Sauce. Melt two ounces of butter in a small saucepan and add one ounce of flour, stirring until it is of a brown color. Then add sufficient boiling stock to render it of a cream-like consistency, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cucumber Sauce. Take three young cucumbers, slice them rather thickly, and fry them in a little butter till they are lightly browned; dredge them with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and simmer them till tender in as much good brown gravy as will cover them. White sauce or melted butter may be substituted for the gravy if these are more suitable to the dish with which the cucumber sauce is to be served. Time, about a quarter of an hour to simmer the cucumbers. SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 347 Chili Sauce. Twelve ripe tomatoes, pared, two large peppers, chopped fine, one large onion, chopped fine, two cups of vinegar, one tablespoon, ful salt, one cup brown sugar, one teaspoonful each of allspice, nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. Boil all together. Caper Sauce. Two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of flour; mix well; pour on boiling water until it thickens; add one hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, and two tablespoonfuls of capers. Celery Sauce. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, melt it, and add two heads of celery cut up into inch pieces; stir the celery in the pan till it is quite tender; add salt and pepper, with a little mace. Mix a tablespoonful of flour in a cup of stock and simmer half an hour. A cup of cream may be used instead of stock. Egg Sauce. Take yolks of two eggs, boiled hard; mash them with a table- spoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and three of salad oil. A tablespoonful of catsup improves this for some. This sauce is very nice for boiled fish. Fish Sauce. One-quarter of a pound of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice of two lemons. Cream the butter; mix all well together. The Hollatstdaise Sauce. For one pint: one tablespoonful of salt, same of butter and flour; put them in a saucepan and put over the fire, and stir until the butter is melted. Add gradually one pint of hot water, about half a cup at a time, and stir each time for a minute while it is boiling; season with white pepper, nutmeg, and make sure it is cooked. 348 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. One great difficulty with sauces is they are raw. This makes the white sauce, which is the basis of many sauces. Add the yolks of two or three eggs, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice, or vinegar; three tablespoonfuls of salad oil. These may be added by putting them together in a separate dish and dipping a few spoonfuls of the white sauce upon them and stirring thoroughly, and then pour- ing back into the sauce. In this consistency the sauce makes a fine d/essing for lobster or chicken salad. This sauce is suitable for any kind of boiled fish. Hot Sauce for Meats. Four onions, two cups of sugar, thirty-two tomatoes, one quart of vinegar, four peppers, two tablespoonfuls of salt, two tablespoon- fuls of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of cloves, three tablespoonfuls of red pepper; cook, strain and bottle. Hoese-Radish Sauce. Two teaspoonfuls of made mustard, two of white sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a gill of vinegar; mix and pour over grated horse-radish. Excellent with beef. Mushroom Sauce. To make a pint of mushroom sauce for the fillet of beef, use one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; put over the fire and stir until brown. Then put in half a pint of water or chicken broth and half a pint of essence of mushroom or the liquor found in a can of mushrooms; stir till the sauce is perfectly smooth, season with a saltspoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. Put in the mushrooms and boil two minutes; take off, put in "• glass of sherry or Madeira wine, and pour around the fillet of beef. Mint Sauce. Mfc One tablespoonful of white sugar to half a cup of good vin- egar; add the mint and let it infuse for half an hour before sending to the table. Serve with roast lamb or mutton. SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 34£> Mustard Sauce. One cup of sugar, one cup of vinegar, one tablespoonful of but- ter, four eggs and one tablespoonful of mustard; beat tbe eggs well; mix all together; turn into a new tin pail or basin and boil in water same as custard, only to a cream, not thick. Strain through a thin cloth and it is done. Prepared Mustard. Two tablespoonfuls of mustard, one of flour; mix thoroughly while dry. Have a cup two-thirds full of strong vinegar ; fill with water, stir the flour and mustard into it and let it boil until as thick as custard; remove from the fire and add a tablespoonful of sugar. Made Mustard. Pour a very little boiling water over three tablespoonfuls of mustard; add one saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of olive oil, stirred slowly in, and one tablespoonful of sugar; add the yolk of an egg; beat well together, and pour in vinegar to taste. It is best eaten next day. Mayonnaise Sauce. A mixture of egg yolks, oil, vinegar or lemon-juice. The prin- cipal point to be attended to in preparing this sauce is the mode of mixing, which demands time, patience and care. Break the yolk of a fresh egg into a bowl with a saltspoonful of pepper and salt mixed. Beat it till thick, then add from time to time during the mixing, two or three drops of the best olive oil until about four ounces have been used and the mixture is thick and yellow. When eight teaspoonfuls of oil have been used, stir in one teaspoonful of white wine vinegar, and continue adding oil and vinegar in these proportions until all the oil is used. The yolk of one egg would be sufficient for a pint of oil and vinegar in propor- tion. The addition of a few drops of lemon-juice makes mayon- naise look creamy. Mayonnaise will keep a long time if bottled closely and kept in a cool place. 350 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Knead together (on a plate with the point of a knife) equal quantities of chopped parsley and fresh butter. Add pepper, salt and a little lemon-juice. Keep in a cool place. When a dish is said to be a la Maitre d'Hotel it is generally served with this butter. Maitre d'Hotel Sauce. Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a small enameled saucepan, and stir to it, by degrees, two tablespoonf uls of flour; continue stir- ring five or ten minutes, until the butter and flour are well blended, when add, also by degrees, a quarter of a pint of boiling cream and a quarter of a pint of good veal stock, also boiling; add a few spoonfuls of each at a time and stir well, allowing the sauce to simmer a minute or two between each addition. When perfectly smooth, put in the strained juice of a lemon, or, if preferred, a tablespoonful of Chili vinegar, a little pepper, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. The yolks of two eggs are a great improvement to this sauce, and are almost necessary when it is served with fish; but in that case only half the quantity of flour should be used, as the eggs help to thicken it. Oyster Sauce. Prepare some nice drawn butter; scald the oysters in a little Abater and mix them with the butter; mix well and let the sauce *ome nearly to a boil, after which serve with oyster crackers. Old Currant Sauce for Venison. Boil an ounce of dried currants in half a pint of water, a few minutes; add a small cup of bread crumbs, six cloves, a glass of port wine and a bit of butter. Stir it till the whole is smooth. Piquant Sauce. Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter in a small saucepan over a moderate fire. Throw in a tablespoonful of chopped onions, and stir them about for two minutes, sprinkle a teaspoonful of flour over SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 351 them, and beat it with a wooden or ii'on spoon to prevent it from getting into lumps. Add half a pint of stock or broth, a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of Cayenne. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, then lift out the herbs, pour in half a wineglassful of vinegar, and add a little pepper and salt if required; let all boil up together and serve. Tomato Sauce. * Nine ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut small, red pepper chopped fine, one cup of vinegar, two tablespoonf uls brown sugar, one table- spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful ginger, one of cloves, one of all- spice; put vinegar in last; stew one hour. Almond Forcemeat. Beat up the yolks of three eggs with a quarter of a pint of good cream, and flavor with a little nutmeg. Blanch and pound in a mortar three ounces of sweet almonds, using white of egg to moisten. Add these with three-quarters of a pound of light bread crumbs, and three ounces of butter broken into small bits, to the egg mixture. Stir in, lastly, the whites of the eggs whisked to a solid froth, and fill either capon or turkey. Forcemeat Balls. Chop a quarter of a pound of beef suet, a little lemon peel, and parsley. Mix with a basin of bread crumbs, and flavor with pep- per, salt, and nutmeg. Moisten with the yolks of two eggs, roll in flour, and make up into small balls. Bake in a hot oven, or fry till crisp. This recipe will do for fowls. The addition of a little ham, chopped or pounded, will be found a considerable improvement. Chestnut Forcemeat. Remove the outer skin from some chestnuts (they should be ripe and sound). Boil them for two or three minutes to get off the inner skin. Peel them, and to preserve their color throw them into cold water; drain and weigh them. Stew six ounces of them gently for about twenty minutes in veal gravy. Let them get cold, 352 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. pound them till smooth with an equal quantity of butter, or half their weight in fat bacon, and add two ounces of bread crumbs, and a little salt, lemon rind, and nutmeg. Bind the mixture together with the unbeaten yolks of two eggs. If this forcemeat is formed into cakes, these should be dipped into flour before being fried. Forcemeat for Fish, Soups and Stews. ^ound the flesh of a medium-sized lobster, half an anchovy, a piece of boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiied egg, salt, pepper, and Cayenne to taste. Mix these with a tablespoonful of bread crumbs, two ounces of butter, and two of raw eggs. Make into small balls, and fry a pale brown in butter. Two or three oysters may be added. Forcemeat for Game. Take the livers of the game and pound them with half their weight of beef suet and good fat bacon, mixed together; season with salt, pepper, and ground cloves. Use a little of the meat of the game if enough of the livers cannot be obtained; moisten with cream, and bind with the yolks of two eggs. If the forcemeat be required stiff, stew over a gentle fire, keeping it constantly stirred Until the proper consistency is gained. Forcemeat for Turkeys. Take equal quantities of lean veal and pork, and mince them finely together; also cut into pieces a parboiled veal sweetbread, and mix with about three-quarters of a pound of each of the former meats. Add half a pound of bread, soaked, and the same amount of warm butter. Flavor with a little nutmeg, salt, pepper and half an ounce of grated lemon rind. Bind with three beaten eggs, and fill the turkey. Mushroom Forcemeat. Procure four ounces of young, fresh mushrooms. Peel them, cut off the stems. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and let them simmer very gently over a slow fire, with a slight flavoring of mace and Cayenne. Spread them over a dish placed in a slanting SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. 353 position to drain away the moisture. When cold mince them, and add four ounces of fine bread crumbs, a small seasoning of salt, Cayenne, mace, and nutmeg, a piece of butter, the yolks of two eggs. Put in as much of the mushroom gravy as will make the forcemeat of the proper consistency. Make into balls, poach and throw into soup ; or fry, and serve round a dish of roast fowl or minced veal. It is also a good stuffing for boiled fowls. Oyster Forcemeat. Get fresh oysters and cut them into quarters. Grate bread enough to fill half a pint, and one ounce and a half of finely shred suet or butter, which should be broken into bits. Mix all these ingredients together with a good flavoring of herbs, and a seasoning of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Add two well- beaten eggs. This forcemeat is for boiled or roast turkey. It may be made into balls and used as a garnish. Twenty oysters are sufficient for one turkey. Weights and Measures. Ten common-sized eggs weigh one pound. Soft butter the size of an egg weighs one ounce. One pint of coffee A sugar weighs twelve ounces. One quart of sifted flour (well heaped) one pound. One pint of best brown sugar weighs thirteen ounces. Two tea cups (well heaped) of coffee A sugar weigh one pound. Two teacups (level) of granulated sugar weigh one pound. Two teacups of soft butter (well packed) weigh one pound. One and one-third pints of powdered sugar weigh one pound. Two tablespoons of powdered sugar or flour weigh one ounce. One tablespoon (well rounded) of soft butter weighs one ounce One pint (heaped) of granulated sugar weighs fourteen ounces. Four teaspoons are equal to one tablespoon. Two and one-half teacups (level) of the best brown sugar weigh one pound. 354 SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FORCEMEATS. Two and three-fourths teacups (level) of powdered sugar weigh one pound. One tablespoonful (well heaped) of granulated, coffee A, or best brown sugar, equals one ounce. Miss Parloa says one generous pint of liquid, or one pint of finely-chopped meat packed solidly, weighs one pound, which it would be very convenient to remember. Teaspoons vary in size, and the new ones hold about twice as much as an old-fashioned spoon of thirty years ago. A medium- sized teaspoon contains about a dram. Allowance of Supplies for an Entertainment. In inviting guests, it is safe to calculate that out of one hun- dred and fifty, but two-thirds of the number will be present. If five hundred are invited, not more than three hundred can be counted upon as accepting. Allow one quart of oysters to every three persons present Five chickens (or, what is better, a ten-pound turkey, boiled and minced), and fifteen heads of celery, are enough for chicken salad for fifty guests; one gallon of ice-cream to every twenty guests; one hundred and thirty sandwiches for one hundred guests; and six to ten quarts of wine jelly for each hundred. For a com- pany of twenty, allow three chickens for salad; one hundred pickled oysters; two moulds of Charlotte Russe; one gallon of cream ; and four dozen biscuits. CONTENTS. I. Bread-Making. Page Bread 7 Yeast that will not sour 8 A good reliable yeast 9 Another good yeast 9 ■ Good home-made bread 9 Yeast bread 10 Potato bread (2) 11 Milk-sponge bread 11 Salt-rising bread (2) 12 Corn bread 12 Corn bread (3) 13 Grandmother's Indian bread 13 Quick Graham bread 13 Baking-powder Graham bread 13 Brown bread of Graham flour 14 Graham bread (2) 14 Brown bread 14 Brown bread 15 Boston brown bread 15 Rye bread 15 ' Rye and Indian Bread 16 Rye bread with baking-powder 16 Hoyleton bread 16 Norwegian bread for dyspeptics 16 Oatmeal bread 17 Rice bread 17 II. Breakfast and Tea Cakes. Light biscuit 18 Butter biscuit 18 Soda biscuit 18 Dixie biscuit 18 Baking-powder biscuit 19 Cream of tartar biscuit 19 English biscuit 19 Graham biscuit 19 Cold biscuit 20 Buns (3) 20 Cinnamon cake 20 Graham cakes 21 Rye drop cakes 21 Corn cukes 21 Johnny cake 21 Newport breakfast cakes 21 Potato cakes 21 Griddle Cakes. Stale bread griddle cakes 22 Corn meal griddle cakes 22 Rice griddle cakes 22 Flour griddle cakes '. 22 Green corn griddle cakes 22 Hominy griddle cakes 22 Page Crumb corn cakes , 28 Flannel cakes 28 Buckwheat cakes 23 Graham griddle cakes 23 Squash, pumpkin, and apple griddle cakes 28 Berry griddle cakes 23 Egg cracknels 24 Oatmeal crackers 24 Graham crackers 24 Crumpets .». 25 London crumpets 25 Kentucky corn dodgers 26 Fritters. Green corn fritters (2) 26 Apple fritters 26 Celery fritters 26 Oyster fritters 26 Clam fritters 27 Lobster fritters 27 Rice fritters 27 Blackberry fritters 27 Gems. Graham gems (3) 28 Cold water gems 28 Mixed gems 28 Oatmeal gems 28 Muffins. Muffins (3) 29 Rice flour muffins 29 Rice muffins 29 Graham muffins (2) 30 Corn meal muffins 30 Mush. Cornmeal mush 30 Oatmeal mush 30 Cracked wheat mush 30 Cracked wheat mush 31 Fried mush for breakfast 31 Hominy 31 Puffs. Puffs 31 Graham puffs (2) 31 Oatmeal puffs 33 Potato puffs 32 Cream puffs 32 Puffets 32 Proverbs • • ■ 32 Pocket books * •* 355 356 CONTENTS. Rolls. Page How to make rolls (2) 33 Cinnamon rolls 33 Parker House rolls 33 White Mountain rolls 34 Oatmeal rolls 34 Vienna twist rolls 34 Italian rolls 35 Graham breakfast rolls 35 French rolls 35 Tremont House rolls 35 Rosettes 36 Ruska. Sweet rusks (2) 3ft Rusks 36 Baking-powder rusks 37 Scones 37 Scotch scones 37 Sally lunn 37 Sally lunn 38 Plain short cake 38 Scotch short cake 38 Sandwiches. Ham sandwiches 38 Egg sandwiches 39 Sardine sandwiches 39 School lunch sandwiches 39 Oyster sandwiches 39 Tongue or ham sand wichos 39 Toast. Cream toast 40 Breakfast toast 40 Cheese and egg toast 40 Ham toast 40 Spanish toast 41 Fried bread 41 WajfUis, Waffles (4) 41 Bread waffles 42 Rice waffles 42 Graham wafers . 42 Sweet wafers 42 m. C/.KE. Almond cake (2) 43 Adelaide cake , 43 Apple cake 44 Angel's food 44 Andalusia sponge cake 44 Black fruit cake 44 Bride cake (2) 45 Bread cake 45 Black cake 46 Bridgeport cake 46 Butternut cake 46 Boston cream cake 46 Cocoanut cake 46 Cocoanut cake 47 Chocolate cake 47 Corn starch cake (2) 47 Coffee cake 48 Chocolate eclai res 48 Charlotte caches 48 Cider cake 48 Page Cake without eggs 49 Cream puffs 49 Citron cake 49 Cream cake 49 Chocolate cake 49 Christmas cake 50 Cinnamon cake 50 Cinnamon cake 51 Cup cake 51 Cocoanut pound cake 51 Clove cake 51 Delicate cake 51 Delicious cake 52 Drop cake 52 Dough cake 52 Dover cake 52 Dundee cake 52 Dried apple cake 53 Election cake 53 Every-day fruit cake 53 Eggless cake 53 English Christmas cake 53 Fruit cake from dough 54 Fruit cake (2) 54 Fruit jelly cake 54 Favorite lemon jelly cak« 55 Fig cake (2) 55 French loaf cake • 55 Feather cake 55 Feather cake 56 Gold cake = 56 Gentleman's cake 56 Ginger drop cake 56 Ginger-bread loaf 56 Ginger-bread 57 Soft ginger-bread (2) 57 Ginger cup cake - 57 Groom's cake 57 Graham cup cake 58 Hickory-nut cake 58 Hickory-nut drop cake 58 Huckleberry cake = 58 Honey cake 58 Imperial cake • 59 Ice cream cake 59 Jelly cake 59 Jellyrolls 59 Kaff ee Kuchen 59 Knickerbocker cake 60 Lemon cake (2) 60 Lemon jelly cake 60 Lady cake 61 Lunch cake 61 Light cake 61 Loaf cake '. 61 Marbled rake 61 Mountain cake 62 Madeira < ake 62 Molasses -Jake (2) 62 Marbled < hocolate cako 63 Moreton ) arm cake 63 Nut cake 63 Nut cake 64 White nut <:ake 64 Neapolitan cake 64 Lady fingf rs 64 Orange ceite (2) 65 PerfectioT cake 65 Pork cak-i 66 Portuguese cake 66 Puff eak». . . . 6« CONTENTS. 357 Page Pine-apple cake 66 Pound cake without soda 67 Cocoanut pound cake 67 Pound cake 67 Plum cake 67 Quincy cake 67 Queen cake 68 Railroad cake 68 Reception cake > 68 Rice cake 68 Rochester jelly cake 68 Silver cake 69 Snow cake 69 Swiss cake 69 Sponge cake, Delicious 69 Sponge cake with hot water 70 Sponge cake 70 Sponge cake, White 70 Sultana cake 70 Spice cake 71 Seed cake 71 Tunbridge cake 71 Taylor cake 71 Wedding cake 71 Wedding cake 73 Vainlla cake 74 Washington cake 74 Wine cake 75 Webster cake 75 Watermelon cake 75 White cake 75 Tule cake 75 Crullers (3) 76 Cookies, Jumbles, and Snaps. Almond cookies 76 Almond cookies 77 Cocoanut cookies 77 Cookies (3) 77 Cream cookies 77 Cookies (2) 78 Eggless cookies 78 Ginger cookies 78 ■Graham cookies 78 Molasses cookies 78 Sugar cookies 79 Hickory-nut cookies 79 Sand tarts 79 Jumbles (2) 79 Ginger snaps (2) 79 Ginger snaps 80 Doughnuts 80 Doughnuts without egg 80 Doughnuts raised 80 Cream doughnuts 80 Fried cakes 81 Snowballs, white 81 IV. Creams and Costards. Apple snow 82 Apple float 82 Almond cream 82 Bavaroise 82 Blanc mange 83 Cream a la mode 83 Coffee cream 83 Bavarian cream 83 Chocolate Bavarian cream 84 Caledonia cream 84 Page Charlotte Russe elegante 84 Charlotte Russe (2) 84 Fruit Charlotte 85 Genoese cream 85 Italian cream 85 Manioca cream 86 Russe cream 86 Rock cream 86 Spanish cream 86 Tapioca cream 86 Whipped cream 87 Whipped cream sauce 87 Almond custard 87 Apple custard 87 Boiled custard 87 Baked custard 88 Chocolate custard 88 Coffee custard 88 Corn starch custard 88 Cocoanut custard 88 Cold cup custard 89 Caramel custard 89 Lemon custard 89 Moonshine 89 Floating island (2) 90 Irish moss 90 Quaking custard 90 Orange snow 91 V. Confectionery. General directions 92 Almond candy 92 Almond creams 92 Bon Bons 92 Butter Scotch 93 Boston caramels 93 Cream cocoanut candy 93 Cocoanut candy 93 Cocoanut caramels 93 Chocolate caramels 93 Chocolate cream drops 94 Chocolate kisses 94 Fruit candy 94 Hickory-nut candy 94 Horehound candy 94 Lemon cream candy 95 Lemon and peppermint drops 95 Molasses candy 96 White molasses candy 96 Peanut candy 96 Pop corn balls 97 Taffy 97 Efferton taffy 97 Vinegar candy (2) 98 Walnut candy 98 Meringues 98 Cream meringues 99 Macaroons 99 Bachelor buttons 99 Corn starch rateffes 99 VI. Catsups. Currant catsup 100 Cucumber catsup 101 Gooseberry catsup 101 Plum catsup 101 Tomato catsup 101 Tomato catsup 102 Mushroom catsup (See " Mushrooms.") 358 CONTENTS. VII. Desserts. Page Puddings 103 To young housekeepers 105 Arrowroot pudding 106 Almond pudding 106 Pie-plant Charlotte 106 Croquettes of rice 107 Bombes au riz 107 Green corn pudding 108 Cottage pudding 10.8 Cranberry roll 108 Delmonico pudding 108 Eve's pudding 109 Fig pudding 109 Fruit pudding 109 Baked farina pudding 109 Plain fruit pudding 109 Florentine pudding 110 Gelatine pudding 110 Ginger pudding 110 Honeycomb pudding. 110 Huckleberry pudding Ill Hen's nest Ill Indian pudding Ill Apple pudding Ill Apple batter pudding Ill Apple float 112 Apple slump 112 Baked apple dumplings 112 Apple surprised 112 Amber pudding 113 Ambrosia 113 Apple omelette 113 Apple Charlotte 1 13 Bancroft pudding Ill Bread pudding 114 Banana and apple tart 114 Bird's nest pudding (2) 114 Cabinet pudding. 115 Cream batter pudding 115 Cracker pudding 115 Chocolate pudding 115 Charlotte pudding 115 Cottage pudding 116 Custard bread pudding 116 Cocoanut pudding 116 Cream pudding 116 Crumb pudding 117 Irish rock 117 Jelly rice 117 Jelly custard 118 Jelly tartlets 118 Kiss pudding 118 Lemon pudding 118 Lemon trifle 118 Lemon pudding 119 Meringue rice pudding 119 Malagan pudding 119 Mitchell pudding 119 Maud's pudding 119 Orange pudding 120 Christmas plum pudding 120 Plum pudding 120 English plum pudding i. 121 Plum pudding 121 Rich plum pudding 121 Baked plum pudding 122 Poor man's pudding 122 Raisin puffs 122 Roly poly pudding 122 Page Rice pudding 123 Sago pudding 123 Suet pudding 123 Steamed pudding 123 Snow pudding 123 Steamed pudding 124 Strawberry short-cake (2) 124 Tapioca pudding (2) 125 To 300k rice 125 Vegetable pudding 125 Whipped syllabubs 125 Yankee pudding 126 Pudding Sauces. Sweet sauce 126 Fruit sauce 126 Fruit pudding sauce 126 Arrowroot sauce .... 127 German custard sauce 127 Pudding Sauce 127 Pies. Puff paste 127 Pie crust 128 Good and cheap pie crust 128 Pie crust glaze 129 Pie crust for four small pies 129 Tart crust 129 Icing pastry 129 Puff paste with beef suet 130 Apricot pie 130 Apple pie 130 Apple custard pie 130 Boiled cider pie 130 Banana pie 130 Cracker pie 131 Chocolate pie 131 • Cocoanut pie 131 Jelly custard 131 Custard pie 131 Cream pie (2) 138 Custard for cream pie 132 Delicate pie 132 Lemon pie 132 Fruit pie 133 Lemon pie 133 Mince meat (2) 133 Mince pie 133 Mince pie 134 Mince meat without meat 134 Marlborough pie 134 Orange pie .' 135 Cream peach pie 135 Pine-apple pie 135 Pumpkin pie 135 Potato pie 136 Sweet potato pie (2) 136 Apple or peach meringue pie 137 Peach pie 137 Quince pie 137 Cream raspberry pie 137 Raisin pie 138 Rhubarb pie 138 Rice pie 138 Squash pie 138 Vinegar pie 138 Tarts.... 139 CONTENTS. 359 Vnl Drinks. Page Coffee 1 40 Coffee substitutes 143 Novel mode of making coffee 143 Tea 144 Iced tea 145 A good summer drink 145 Cottage beer 145 Ginger beer 145 Spruce beer 146 Iced buttermilk 146 Claret cup 146 Fruit cup 146 Cream of tartar drink 147 Jelly drinks 147 Simon-pure lemonade 147 Jelly lemonade 147 Ginger lemonade 148 Berry sherbet 148 Excellent mead 148 IX. Eggs and Omelettes. Remarks 149 Breaded eggs 150 Egg a la mode 150 How to bake eggs 150 Egg baskets 150 To pickle eggs 151 Scrambled eggs 151 To poach eggs 151 Stuffed eggs 153 Omelette (2) 152 Apple omelette 153 Oyster omelette 153 Omelette souffle 153 French omelette 153 Omelette with ham 154 Eggs a la bonne femme 154 X. Fresh Fruits. Pine-apples 155 A nice way to prepare apples 155 To stew apples 155 Bananas and cream 155 To crystallize fruit 155 To keep grapes 1 56 Melons 156 Oranges 156 Candied cherries 156 Stewed pears 157 Glace cherries. . 157 Candied lemon-peel 157 XI. Canning Fruit. General directions 159 Table for canning fruit 160 Apple sauce 160 Canning pine-apple 16) Canning pine-apple 161 Canning oerries 161 Canning pears 161 Canning peaches 161 Dried peaches — 162 XII. Ices and Ice-Creams* Remarks 163 Berry cream 164 Burnt sugar ice-cream 164 Pagk Chocolate ice-cream 164 Coffee ice-cream 164 Lemon ice-cream 164 Peach ice-cream 165 Pine-apple ice-cream 165 Orange ice-cream 165 Strawberry and raspberry ice-cream. .. 165 Vanilla ice-cream ; 165 Cocoanut ice-cream 165 Frozen tapioca custard 166 Frozen rice custard 166 Frozen sago custard 166 Water-ices 166 Cherry water-ice and nut cream 166 Strawberry water-ice 167 Raspberry water-ice 167 Burnt almond ice-cream and orange ice. 167 Biscuit glaces 168 Rateffe biscuit cream 168 Tutti frutti 168 •Gelatine paste for ornamenting ices. . 169 Pine-apple sherbet 169 To color ice creams or water-ices 169 XIII. Icings. Remarks 171 Almond icing 171 Boiled icing (2) 171 Chocolate icing (2) 171 Chocolate icing 172 Clear icing for cake 172 Icing for cakes 172 Tutti frutti frosting 172 Lemon frosting 172 Ornamental icing 113 Yellow icing 173 Rose coloring 173 XTV. Jams and Jellies. Remarks 174 Apricot jam 175 Marmalades and jams 175 Apple jams 175 Berry or currant jam 176 Grape, gooseberry, or plum jam 176 Apple marmalade 176 Orange marmalade 176 Pine-apple marmalade 177 Peach marmalade 177 Quince marmalade 177 Plum marmalade 178 Pumpkin marmalade 178 Apple jelly 178 Blackberry jelly 179 Cranberry jelly 179 Crab-apple jelly 179 Currant jelly 179 Currant jelly 180 Grape jelly 180 Peach jelly 181 Pieplant jelly 181 Quince jelly (2) 181 Coffee jelly 1« Lemon snow jelly 1^'-' Lemon jelly 182 Orange jelly 183 Wine jelly... !■ 18> Mouldiness 18^ 360 CONTENTS. XV. Mushrooms. Page Remarks 184 Mushrooms au gratin 184 Mushrooms a la provincale 185 Mushrooms a la creme 185 Mushrooms, baked 185 Mushrooms, breakfast 185 Mushrooms, curried 186 Mushrooms en caisse 186 Mushroom catsup 186 Mushrooms en ragout 187 Mushrooms with bacon 187 Mushroom stems 187 Mushrooms, to stew 188 Mushrooms, to pot 188 Mushrooms and toast (2) 188 Mushrooms, to pickle (2J » 189 XVI. Pickles. Remarks • 190 Pickled artichokes 191 Pickled butternuts and walnuts 191 Pickled beans • . . = 192 Pickled beets 192 Pickled broccoli * . 192 Bottled pickles 192 Mary's pickled blackberries. 193 To put up cucumbers in brine,. 193 Pickled cabbage (2) 194 Pickled cauliflower (2) 194 Pickled cucumbers 194 Chow-chow (2) 195 Pickled cherries 195 French pickles 196 Pickled grapes (2) 196 To harden pickles 196 Lemon pickles 196 Mangoes of melons 197 Imitation pickled maagoes 197 Pickled nasturtiums 197 Pickled onions (2) 197 Pickles • 198 Stuffed peppers 198 Mixed pickles (2) 198 India pickles • • 199 Pyper pickles 199 Ragan pickles 199 Sweet pickles 199 Sweet apple pickles 200 Sweet tomato pickles 200 Green tomato pickles 200 Picalilli 201 Picklette 201 Spiced vinegar for pickle? generally — 201 Pickled peaches 201 Pickled peaches that wiU keep 202 To pickle plums 202 Green tomato soy 202 To keep tomatoes whol« 203 Pickled f/jmaioes 203 XVII. Ppssekves. Applo f >TeserTe3(2).. 204 Aprior, preserves 204 Citron preserves 204 Currant preserves 205 Citron preserves 205 I .em hi preserves 205 >>a" v dific'i berries )r cherries 205 Page Preserved oranges 206 Preserved pine-apple 206 Preserved plums or cherries 206 Preserved purple plums 207 Preserved pears 207 Preserved peaches 207 Brandy peaches 207 Quince preserves 208 Preserving strawberries 208 Green tomato preserves 209 Ripe tomato preserves 209 Spiced currants 209 Spiced gooseberries 209 Spiced grapes 210 Spiced nutmeg melons 210 Spiced peaches 210 Spiced plums 210 Spiced plums 211 XVUI. Vegetables. Remarks 212 Potatoes, how to cook 216 Artichokes, fried 216 Asparagus, boiled 216 Asparagus, fricass6ed 217 Egg broccoli 217 Beets and potatoes 217 Beans, Lima 218 Beans, string 218 Brussels sprouts 218 Carrots, stewed 218 Celery 219 Celery, fried 219 Celery, stewed 219 Cabbage, cream 219 Cabbage a la cauliflower 219 Cabbage, boiled 219 Cabbage, baked 220 Hot slaw 220 Cauliflower 220 Cauliflower a la Francaise 221 Cauliflower with stuffing 221 Cauliflower with sauce 221 Corn, for winter use 221 Corn, baked 222 Com, green on the cob 222 Corn oysters 222 Corn, stewed 222 Cucumbers, stewed 222 Celery 223 Celery, fried 223 Carrots 223 Carrots, boiled 223 Dandelion 224 Endive, stewed 224 Egg plant (2) 224 Egg plant, fricasseed 224 Egg plant, stuffed 225 Garlic...! 225 Greens, stewed 225 Horse-radish as garnish 226 Lettuce 226 Lettuce, stuffed 226 Macaroni 226 Macaroni as a vegetable 226 Macaroni with oysters 227 Macaroni with tomatoes 227 Blacaroni, stewed 227 Onions, boiled 228 Onions, ormaloo- 228 CONTENTS. 361 Page Onions, scalloped 228 Okra, boiled 228 Vegetable oysters 228 Mock stewed oysters 229 Parsley 229 Parsley, crisp 229 Parsley, fried 229 Parsnips 229 Parsnips, fried 230 Parsnip stew 230 Pease, canned 230 Pease, French way of cooking 230 Pease, green 231 Potato balls 231 Potato balls, English 231 Potatoes, browned 231 Potatoes, southern baked 232 Potatoes, cream 232 Potato croquettes 232 Potato cake 232 Potatoes, fried (2) 2*3 Potatoes, mashed 233 Potatoes, surprised 234 Potato puff 234 Potato pie 234 Potato, pur6e of 234 Potato loaves 234 Potatoes, Saratoga 235 Potatoes, Lyonnaise 235 Potatoes, old 235 Potatoes, tossed 835 Potatoes, sweet 836 Potatoes, sweet, baked 236 A farmer's dainty dish 236 Rice as a vegetable 236 Succotash 237 Spinach 237 Spinach, cream of 237 Squash, winter 237 Squash, stuffed 237 Turnips 238 Turnips, mashed 238 Tomatoes a la creme 238 Tomatoes, browned 238 Tomatoes, baked 238 Tomatoes, baked 239 Tomatoes, broiled 239 Tomatoes, fried 239 Tomatoes, scalloped 239 Tomatoes, stuffed 239 French butter for frying vegetables 240 Rules for cooking vegetables 240 XIX. Fish. Remarks 242 Fish, baked 244 Fish, to boil 244 Fish, boiled 244 Fish, baked black 244 Trout, brook 244 Flounders 245 Halibut 245 Perch, eels, and small pike 245 Eels, potted 245 Eels, collared 246 Sturgeon 246 Cod's head 246 Codfish, fresh 248 Codfish, salt 248 Codfish balls 248 Pagk Mackerel, salt 248 Cod, baked 249 Pike, boiled 249 Turbot 250 Whitefish, to fry 250 Salmon 250 XX. Shell Fish. Clams 251 Clam bake 251 Clam chowder 251 Clam fritters 252 Clams, fried 252 Clam pie 252 Clam stew 252 Clam soup 253 Crabs 253 Crabs, soft 253 Crabs, scalloped , 254 Frogs 254 Lobster croquettes 254 Lobster cutlet 254 Lobsters, fried 255 Lobster patties 255 Lobster rissoles 255 Lobster salad 255 Lobster, broiled 256 Lobsters en brochette 256 Lobsters, roasted 256 Lobsters, gratin of 256 Oysters, broiled 256 Oyster chowder 257 Oyster croquettes 257 Oysters, f ricass§ed 257 Oysters, fried 257 Oysters, fried 258 Oyster and chicken pie 258 Oysters scalloped 258 Oyster stew, Park Row 258 Oysters, Maryland stewed 259 Oysters, plain stew 259 Oyster sauce 259 Oyster pie 259 Oysters, pickled 260 Oyster patties 260 Oyster pot-pie 260 Oysters, roasted 260 Oysters, fancy roast 260 Oysters a la Poulette 261 Oysters, raw 261 Oysters with toast 261 Oyster flavor 261 Oysters, new way of preparing 261 Scallops 262 Terrapins, or water turtles 262 XXI. Game. Game, to select 264 Birds, to pot 265 Birds, reed 265 Birds, reed, a la Lindenthorpe 265 Prairie chickens, roast 266 Prairie chicken 266 Partridges, pheasants, and quails, to roast 266 Quail on toast 266 Quail, or woodcock, to broil 267 Pigeon pie 267 Pigeon, roast (2) 267 Pigeon compote 267 362 CONTENTS. Page Duck, wild 868 Goose, wild 863 Hare, roast 269 Hare, a nice way to prepare cold 263 Rabbit, roast : 209 Rabbit, with herbs 209 Venison chops 269 Venison, epicurean 270 Venison patties 270 XXU. Marketing. Remarks— beef 271 Sections of bullock 272 Sections of sheep and lamb 273 Mutton 273 Pork 274 Veal 274 Veal, section of 27.j Turkeys 275 Fowls 275 Geese 276 Ducks 276 XXIII. Meats. Beef, aitchbone of, to carve 277 Steak, to make tough tender 277 Beef, brisket of, to carve 278 Steak, broiled (2) 273 Steak, rump, with oyster sauce 278 Steak, to f rv 279 Ste ik, German way of frying 279 Steak smothered with onions 279 Steak pie 279 Beef, ribs of, to carve 280 Beef, ribs of , to roast 280 Beef, sirloin of, to roast 280 Beef, sirloin of, to carve 281 Beef balls 281 Beef, fillet of 281 Beef, a good and cheap way to cook . . . 282 Beef a la mode 282 Beef pounded 283 Beef croquettes 283 Beef, deviled 283 Beef sausages 283 Beef au gratin 284 Beef heart 284 Beef, dried, in cream 284 Beef omelette 284 Beef tongue, broiled 284 Beef, to boil 285 Beef tongue, roasted 285 Tripe 285 Tripe a la Lyonnaise with tomatoes 285 Bullock's heart, roasted 286 Calf's heart, roasted 286 Calf's heart, fried 286 Sheep's heart, baked 287 Sweetbreads 287 Sweetbreads, fried ... 287 Sweetbreads, baked 287 Sweetbreads, broiled 288 Sweetbreads and cauliflower 288 Sweetbreads, tomato 288 Kidneys, broiled or roasted 289 Kidneys, stewed 289 Liver, fried 289 Liver, fried 290 Lamb, roast quarter of 290 Lamb chops, fried 290 Page Lamb chops, broiled 291 Lamb, stewed with green pease 291 Lamb cutlets 291 Mutton, boiled breast of 291 Mutton, haunch of, a la venison 291 Mutton, breast of, with pease 292 Mutton, curried 399 Mutton chops 292 Mutton cutlets a la minute 293 Mutton cutlet and purge of potatoes 2!)3 Mutton, boiled leg of 293 Mutton kebobed 294 Mutton, leg of, to carve 294 Mutton, leg of, roast 295 Mutton cutlets with Provencals sauce.. 295 Pork, to keep fresh in summer 296 Pork, to cook 296 Pork, belly, rolled and boiled 297 Pork brawn .' 297 Pork chops, broiled 298 Pork chops, fried 298 Pork cutlets, broiled 298 Pork, leg of. good as goose 298 Pork cutlets, fried.... 299 Pork, boiled leg of, with pease pudding. 299 Pork pies 299 Pork, roast loin of 300 Pork cake 300 Pork sausage 300 Pork and beans 300 Pressed head 301 Pig'sfeet, boiled 301 Pig's feet cheese 301 Pig, to roast a sucking 302 Hams, to cure 303 Ham pie 302 Ham boned 303 Ham baked 303 Ham and eggs 303 Ham boiled 303 Smoked meat on toast 303 Ham balls 304 Ham garnished and ornamented 304 Ham, to glaze 304 Veal, collared breast of 304 Veal, boiled breast of 305 Veal, ragout of breast of 305 Veal, roasted breast of 305 Veal, bubble and squeak of 306 Veal cake 306 Veal scallop 306 Calf's head, boiled 306 Calf's brains a la ravigote 307 XHV. Poultry. Chicken saute 3 la Marengo 308 Capon ranaque 309 Chicken f rieasseed 310 Chicken pie 310 Chicken, frying 311 Chicken salad 311 Chicken croquettes 311 Chicken, baked 312 Chicken, a nice way to cook 312 Chicken pudding 312 Chicken or veal jellied 312 Chicken scalloped 313 Chicken pot-pie 31& Chicken broiled 313 Ducks a la Francaise 318- CONSENTS. 363 Page Ducks a la mode 314 Ducks, baked 314 Ducks, braised 314 Chicken, pressed 314 Ducks braised with turnips 315 Ducks, fricasseed 315 Ducks, mock 315 Fowls, minced 315 Fowls, roast, to carve 316 Croquettes 316 Goose, roast, to carve 317 Goose, to boil 317 Goose, roast 317 Stuffing 318 Turkey 318 Turkey, cai'ving of 319 Turkey or capon, boiled 319 Turkey, roast (2) 320 Turkey, boiled 321 Turkey dressed with oysters 321 Turkey, deviled 321 Turkey scallop 322 Stuffing, plain 322 Stuffing, apple 322 Stuffing, potato 323 Stuffing, chestnut 323 XXV. Salads. Salad, anchovy 324 Salad, artichoke 324 Salad, beetroot 324 Salad, chicken 324 Salad, chicken 325 Salad, cabbage 325 Salad, fish 325 Salad, hot egg 325 Salad, endive with winter 326 Salad, lettuce (2) 326 Salad, lobster 326 Salad, game 32" Salad, orange 327 Salad, potato 327 Salad', salmon 328 Salad, Russian 328 Salad, summer 828 Salad, Sidney Smith's dressing for 329 Salad and vegetables 829 Salad, water-cress 330 Salad dressing (2) 330 XXTI. Sauces, Soups and Forcemeats. General remarks 331 Stock 333 Soup, bean 334 Soup, asparagus 334 Soup, beef 335 Soup, common 335 Soup, clam 335 Soup, corn 336 Soup, French vegetable 336 Soup, egg &36 Soup, chicken 336 Soup, cabbage 337 Soup, green pea 337 Soup, gumbo 337 Soup, gumbo, plain 338 Soup, lobster 338 Soup, macaroni (2) 338 Soup, mock terrapin 339 Soup, mock turtle 339 Page Soup, mutton 339 Soup, mushroom 340 Soup, ox-tail 340 Soup, oyster 340 Noodles for soup 340 Okra gumbo 340 Soup, potato 341 Soup, tomato 341 Southern gumbo fela 341 Soup, tomato 342 Soup, turkey 342 Soup, green turtle 342 Soup, Soyer's cheap 343 Soup, Soyer's cheap 344 Aspic jelly for garnishing 345 Aspic jelly, stock 345 Sauce, bechamel 345 Sauce, anchovy 346 Sauce, bread 346 Sauce, brown 346 Sauce, cucumber 346 Sauce. Chili 347 Sauce, caper 347 Sauce, celery 347 Sauce, egg 347 Sauce, fish 347 Sauce, Hollandaise 347 Sauce, hot, for meats 348 Sauce, horse-radish 348 Sauce, mushroom 348 Sauce, mint 348 Sauce, mustard 349 Mustard, prepared 349 Mustard, made 349 Sauce mayonnaise 349 Sauce maitre d' hotel 350 Butter maitre d' hotel 350 Sauce, oyster 350 Sauce, piquant 350 Sauce, tomato 351 Forcemeat, almond 351 Forcemeat, chestnut 351 Forcemeat balls 352 Forcemeat for fish, etc 352 Forcemeat for game 352 Forcemeat for turkey 352 Forcemeat, oyster 353 ■■.-> III i ^iSfe ,".V. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I I II III II II I II II II 014 488 204 » , > ; * . V* &*.