^^ 'J' 9',' J ^^°.^ > V v^^ 4 o ^o' ^^/.!?^\/ "o^'^-'Z <^*,--^\/ % 4 o o < o m^MN ILLU JTRHTED NfiW5FHP€R ®F THE HIGH- -EST CL^vJS. TEB G-£APHIO Yolumos, ea-^h eont^iu'iT Sk /iontua' i m- .s, form a most hcii'dsome Vols. rtn-. ^ ^c- 1- -a... :-:.:„■■■..€■-■. ^^. .%.- V.i,. 11. a,.: iif. contrin a ' '■ . ; 'c - ^ =- :' -- '^ -;•;• •.:'.. ■ "^ ■ '' 'X::~-- .^-.r''..;^ l :/u .^::\!]cc. At, the lllublrat' ;-s beii^y uncen 1./ .^eciul i "■,.^:s -.caciL^tita oii ..-o sect:, r'^nder 'lem mosl reliable. -•' '~\a cop'es (?'■'' -'J iht'fe Voluir^s are vow iu'stcck. P?-7ment \.j Cheaue or Post Office Order to E. J. Mansflald, 190, Strand, London. "THE GRAPHIC" GUIDE TO VIENNA. CONTAINING UPWARDS OF THIRTY ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS AND PLACES OF INTEREST IN VIENNA, CHARACTER SKETCHES OF THE INHABITANTS; MAP OF VIENNA, MAP SHOWING THE VARIOUS ROUTES FROM ENGLAND. WRITTEN EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK BY THE SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF "THE GRAPHIC." London : OFFICE OF "THE GRAPHIC," 190, STRAND, W.C. MESSRS. TRUBNER AND CO., 57, LUDGATE HILL, E.C. New York : THE WILLMER AND ROGERS NEWS COMPANY, NASSAU STREET. 1873- ^^ lAll Rights Reserved.'] Ithe library |07 CONGRESS WASHINGTON GERMAN VOCABULARY FOR TRAVELLERS. Although the words contained in the larger dictionaries of the principal languages of Europe may be numbered by the ten or twenty thousand, it is worthy of note that the ordinary business of life may be carried on with a very small percentage of the whole stock at command. It has been reckoned that a country peasant does not habitually make use of more than three hundred words — , adjectives, adverbs, prepositions, and everything included ; and in the same spirit it has been asserted that a traveller can hold sufficiently intelligent intercourse with the inhabitants of foreigii countries, if he can count up to twenty, and say '* How much ? " The remark, though expressed in a somewhat exaggerated form, contains a decided truth. There are numbers of persons who, though possessing neither the inclination nor the leisure to master the intricacies of a grammar, or the niceties of a phrase-book, nevertheless feel that their pleasure would be considerably enhanced when travelling on the Continent, if they were able to express some of their most pressing needs in the language of the country, without being obliged to depend on the natives' knowledge of English, or, in default of such aid, to resort to dumb show, like Hood's ingenious gentleman, who, when in France, obtained eggs for breakfast by clapping hands and crowing. It is for the use of such travellers as these that the subjoined collection of those words in the German language most often wanted by the tourist has been compiled. With regard to pronunciation it is enough to mention here that all the letters in German are sounded on a unifonn principle, and not arbitrarily, as often in England. A sounds ah, u like the French it, b like the Freuch eu, au like ow, die like oi, eu like oi, j sounds like>', v like /, ii) like v, s like z, z like ts. The other letters much as in English. But a few hints from a native (they are almost always well pleased to help any one trying to learn German) will best teach the reader how the words in the vocabulary should be pronounced. How much ? Wie viel ? What is your name ? Wie heissen sie ? How much must I pay ? Wie uiel muss ich bezahlen ? What will you take ? Was befehlen sie ? Have you ? Haben sie ? Explain it. Erklareii sie es. Give me. Geben sie mir. Show me the way to . Zeigen sie mir den lueg zu . If you please. Gefdlligst. Bring me. Bringen sie mir. I want. Ich brauche. Tell me. Sagen sie mir. Thank you. Ich danke ihiteit. That will do. So ist es giit, Who is there? Wcr ist da ? What o'clock is it ? Wie viel Uhf ist cs ? Something to eat. Etwas essen. Ready. Fertig. How far is it ? Wie ivcitist cs ? Do you understand ? Vcrstehen sie ? Yes. Ja. No. Nei7i. Certainly. Ja wohl. Custom house. Zollhatis. Luggage. Gepdck. Prohibited. Verboten. Keys. Schliissel. Road. Weg. Horse. Pferd. Railway. Eiscnbahn. Door. Thiir. Train. Zug. Steamboat. Dampschiff. Waiter. Kellnir. Carriage — First Class, Wagen — Erste Classe. Second class. Zweite Classe. Third class. Dritte Classe. Railway station. Bahnhof. Ticket. Billet. Hotel. Gasthof. Room. Zimmer. Bedroom. Schlafzimmer. Lodging. Wohnung. Bed. Bdt. Hot water, hcisses Wasser. Sheets. Bett-iikher. GERMAN VOCABULARY. Pillow. Kissen. Candle. Licht. Fire. Fetter. Chambermaid, yungfer. Bason. Becken. Water jug. Wasserkrug. Breakfast. Friihstuck. Tea. Thee. Coffee. Kaffee. Milk. Milch. Egg— Eggs. Ei—Eier. Strong — Weak (of tea). Stark— Schivach . Dinner. Mittagbrod. Bread. Brod. Beer. Bier. Wine. Weill. Bottle. Flasche. Cork. Pfropf. Your health. Ihr Gesundheit. Supper. Abendbrod. Bacon. Speck. Beef Rindfleisch. Biscuit. Zzvieback. Brandy. Cognac. Butter. Butter. Cheese. Kdse. Chop. Cotelette. Tea or Coffee — Cup. Obertasse. Ditto — Saucer. Untertasse. Fish. Fisch. Fruit. Obst. Glass. Glas. Grape. Weintraube. Ham. Schinken. Knife. Messer. Fork. Gabel. Spoon. Loffel. Plate. Teller. Mutton. Hammelsfleisch. Salt. Salz. Pepper. Pfeffer. Mustard. Senf. Pastry. Mehlspeise. Pork. Schtveinejleisch. Sausage. Wurst. Potatoes. Kartoffeln. Veal. Kalbsfleisch. Soup. Suppe. Strawberry. Erdbeere. Sugar. Zucker. Table. Tisch. Tea Pot. Theetopf. Vinegar. Essig. Bill (at a Hotel). Rechmmg. Money. Geld. Mistake. Irrthtim. '^heap. Billig. Dear. Theuer. Small change. Kleine Miinze. Right — Left. Rechts — Links. Yesterday. Gestern. To-day. Heute. To-morrow. Morgen. Bookseller. Buchhdndler. Bootmaker. Schuhmacher. Dressmaker. Kleidermacherinn. Hatter. Hutniacher. Tailor. Schneider. Street. Strasse. Lane. Gasse. Market. Markt. Palace. Schloss. Church. Kirche. Theatre. Schauspielhaus. Window. Fenster. Brush. Biirste. Chair. Stuhl. Chest of Drawers. Koniinode. Feather bed. Fedei-bette. Furniture. Mdbeln. Towel. Handtiich. Matches (lighting). Schiuefelhblzchen. Umbrella. Regenschirni. Smoke. Ranch. Tobacco. Tabak. Soap. Seife. Staircase. Treppe. Post Office. Postamt. Postage. Postgeld — Porto. Letter. Brief. Answer. Antwort. Moneychanger. Geldtuechsler. Letter of Credit. Creditbrief. Boots. Stiefeln. Coat. Rock. Glove. Handschiih. Handkerchief. Schnupftnch. Shirt. Henid. Shoe. Schuh. Slipper. Panloffel. Trousers. Beinkleider. Sock. Socke. Toothbrush. Zahnbiirste. Watch. Uhr. Bonnet. Hut. Chemise. Hemd. Cloak. Mantel. Collar. Kragen. Dress. Kleid. Neckerchief Halstuch. Pocket. Tasche. Ribbon. Band. Wash erwoman . Waschfraii . Hackney Coach. Lohn Kutsche. GERMAN VOCABULARY. xxii DAYS OF THE WEEK. Sunday. |^c7««/(r^. Monday. Montag. Tuesday. Dienstag. Wednesday. Mittwoch. Thursday. Donnerstag. Friday. Frcitag. Saturday. Samstag. NUMERALS. One. Ein. Two. Zu.Iaison du Roi," where, in the front room of the first floor, the great Emperor resigned the task of ruling people for that of regulating clocks, succeeding even less effectively with the latter. The quaint Wiertz Gallery, near the Zoological Gardens, where this Mrs. Radclifte amongst painters has piled Pelion on Ossa, horror upon horror, in amongst others the " Fight for the Body of Patroclus," " A Second after Death," " The Precipitate Burial," a very nightmare of art, and other freaks of genius run wild. Then there are the " Zoo,'' the exquisite park, the flower market in the Rue de la Madeleine, and the v/cU-known " i^.Iannikin," at the corner of the Rue de I'Etuve and the Royal Library. All these may be e.asily " done" by an energetic traveller in two days, together with the field of Waterloo. An American would do it all in one. To the " first and last of fields," excursions run daily from the Luxembourg Raihvay at 9 A.M., and by a four-horse coach (twice daily, return fares 7 francs) from the Moncaigne de la Cour. On by the " Great Luxembourg Railway " to Namur (where you change carriages for Cologne), only celebrated for its siege under William III., in which "my uncle Toby" was engaged, as may be certified by all readers of Laurence Sterne and admirers of Leslie and the Widow Wadman, and its tomb of the hero of Lepanto, Don John of Austria. Liege, where in " dix minutes d'arret " travellers may revive their memories of Ouentin Dunvard, Charles le Temeraire, the " Wild Boar of the Ardennes." Or, should they care to make a longer stay, they may visit the handsome church of St. Jacques, and the tomb of the Stanley of travellers, Sir John Mandcville, in. the Convent of St. William. ROUTE THE FIRST. 27 Aix la Chapellc, famous for its treaty, in whose cathedral rest the bones of the great Charlemagne, whose doubtful birthplace and certain "last home" it is ; but the slab, with its inscription " Carolo Magni," covers a void, for the " bones are dust." The throne, in which the body was found seated, is in the {gallery (Hochmiinster), facing the choir; the good sword "Joyeuse," the Imperial crown and mantle, are in the Schatz Kammer at Vienna, and his skull and armbone may be seen in the Sacristy by all who wish to fee the verger for a glimpse of these gruesome relics. Then Cologne, with its Cathedral, the magnificent dome rapidly approaching completion. This most glorious of Gothic edifices dominates the city, and acts as a magnet to the least inquiring traveller, and both internally and exteriorly is one of the few buildings that not only realises but surpasses expectation. The total present length is 511 feet by 231, but will be considerably increased when the \vorks in progress are completed. The height of the nave is immense, being one-half its length, 160 feet, to the ridge of the roof, 250 feet, whereas the towers of the west front will at some distant day be no less than 500 feet from the Platz on which it stands, higher than even the spire of Strasbourg, and almost 100 feet nearer the clouds than the lace-like steeple of Notre Dame, at Antwerp, which Napoleon said should be preserved in a glass case. The stained glass windows, both in the aisle, triforium, and clerestory, are superb, the modern Munich work falling but little, if anything, short of the more ancient examples. The choir is open from 6 to 10, and 3 to 3.30, on payment of the usual fee, but an extra " honorarium," judiciously applied to the red-coated guardian, will always act as an " Open Sesame " at the inter- mediate hours, while from 8 to 9 it is open free. This latter point is worthy of notice, as the guide, if the traveller choose to forsake his Murray or Baedeker, will be apt to ignore this fact. The Chapel of the " Three Kings," or Magi, though it maybe doubted if all that glitters is gold, still gives a good idea of its former splendour, though the 240,000/. its treasures ar6 said to represent it is more than probable went with " La Grand Armce," in the days of the First Napoleon. In front of the grand altar is a slab, beneath which rests the heart, restless when living, of unhappy Marie de Medicis. The other points of interest are the Sepulchre of Conrad of Hochstetti, Elector and Archbishop of Cologne, and Founder of the Dom, the Count of Schaumberg. The fees for the different portions mount to a total of I thaler 45 s. groschen, a sum well bestowed. As the other places of interest, ecclesiastical or otherwise, can be easily seen in an afternoon's ramble, it is as well to mention in order, the Church of St. Ursula and " The Eleven Thousand Virgins," near the Cathedral, and close to the town walls. Exteriorly, it is plain to a degree, and within is only remarkable for its grue- some gathering of the relics of mortality. Entrance can always be obtained by ringing the bell at the sacristan's house, at the corner of St Ursula's place. The fee is 7>^ groschen to the church, and tYz to the Golden Chamber. In the Church itself the skulls may be seen in pigeon holes, surrounding the altar, and glimpses are obtained of the bones with which the walls are filled B 2 2§ ROUTE THE FIRST. through open gratings. The Golden Chamber contains a variety of relics, the authenticity of which it would be heresy to doubt, as the sacristan pledges himself to their good faith. You see the skull of St. Ursula and her betrothed, Ethais, a Scottish prince, their nuptials having been un- pleasantly interrupted by the Huns. One of the jars taken from the Marriage Feast of Cana, which will be pointed out, is alabaster, two thorns from Our Saviour's Crown, a link of St. Peter's chains, the arm of St. Ursula in a silver case, and a number of silver masks, containing skulls of her com- panions. Over the altar will likewise be shown a trophy of bones mounting to the roof, having an invocation to the Saint ingeniously formed in tibias, &c. A series of frescoes on slate, painted 1224, are worthy of notice ; and whether the legend arose from the confusion of the name of the attendant of St. Ursula, Undecimilla, with the numeral Undecim Millia (11,000), or not, whatever doubts the traveller may entertain, it will be kindness to with- hold his doubts rather than wound the feelings of the worthy guardian, whose faith is evidently unbounded. The Church of St. Maria-in-Capitolio, on the site of the former Capitol, recently restored, possesses much rude grandeur; that of St. Jerome contains the bones of the Theban Legion martyred by Diocletian ; St. Cunibert some exquisite stained glass ; St. Peter, the church in which Rubens was baptised, his altar-piece of the crucifixion of the saint, head downwards. The picture generally on view is a copy, but on payment of a fee of 30 s. groschen (for a party) the sacristan will turn the picture round, and display the original. The Church of the Jesuits con- tains the crozier of St. Francis Xavier, and the rosary of the founder of the Order, St. Ignatius Loyola. Its bells were presented by Tilly, and cast from cannon taken by him at Magdeburg. The churches of St. Martin and the Apostles in the Neumarket are perhaps the best specimens of the Romanesque to be found in the West of Europe. Two celebrated magicians find their last home here, Duns Scotus in the Chapel of the Minorites, and Albertus Magnus in that of the Dominicans, now demolished. But possibly to many the greatest interest in Cologne will settle in the dingy house. No. 7 in the Sternen Gasse, where, in a room on the first floor, Peter Paul Rubens was born, and where in that immediately underneath Marie de Medicis died, owing her last earthly shelter to the gratitude of the Prince of Painters. The upper room is now used as an harmonic meeting, a kind of " free and easy," and a piano, not by Collard and CoUard, occupies the spot where stood the former couch. The room of Marie is in still worse condition ; but the interest attaching to the sad story of the Queen of Henri Ouatre, and the mother of the Thirteenth Louis, makes a shrine even of the " inn's worst room," for a Gastliaus frequented by the canaille of Cologne is now the end of the house of Rubens. The museum, together with many Roman an- tiquities, contains some old masters, of more or less merit, generally the latter, and some excellent modem works, including " Galileo in Prison," by Piloty of Munich, and a superb equestrian portrait of William, Emperor of Germany. ST. ( IIAKI.KS S (.'IUKCH ROUTE THE SECOND. 31 The staple article of manufacture it is impossible to miss, the name 01 Farina starting up in every direction, and the odours anathematized by Coleridge may be experienced in full perfection in the immediate vicinity of the Julich Platz, possibly as an inducement to purchase the famous " Eau " to neutralize their effects. The Rathhaus, with its mixture of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, will well repay a visit, and the llansa Saal is probably one of the finest apartments in luirope. Crossing over the Gothic railway bridge to Deutz, the traveller will note how Count Moltke keeps guard on horseback on the Cologne and his Imperial master on the German bank of the river, like two Horse Guards who never cjuit their post. Next by the Rhine (of which more in Route the Fourth) to Frankfort-on-the- Main, with its Dom Kirche, Dannckcr's Ariadne near the Friedburg Gale, open daily from 11 to I, the statue of Guttenberg, by Schwanthaler, Luther's house in the Domplatz, Goethe's birth-place, in the Grosser Hirschgraben, marked by his coat of arms, bearing the device of three lyres, and realising the ancient vafvs, being at once poetical and prophetical. The Romer, with its Kaisersaal, and the Judcngasse, cradle of the Ansclms, to be hereafter known as Rothschild's, and truly so, for the Red Shield of old Meyer, the founder, might have been dyed with the blood bought of the loans floated by the house ; but the Judengasse is almost a thing of the past, for Hausmannism is upon it. However the cellars of Behrcnds ]]rothers in the Schocne Aussicht, with the unlimited " tasting order " given to visitors, will amply atone to many for the aesthetic loss, and as the train is whirled on, or rather vies with the ciliui\<^cn in slowness past Dcttingen, the traveller may tliinl: of 1743 and George the Second. Here, to quote William Makepeace Thackeray, " the little strutting turkey cock of Hcrrenhauscn " fought manfully, and the " Dutcher of Culloden " received his baplcmc de feu. For the rest of the route the reader is referred to the fourth series. ROUTK THK Second. — Calais, St. Omer, Cathedral, remarkable for its portals and handsome altar. Arras, noted for the birthplace of the " incorruptible" Robespierre, but far more interesting for its excellent btiffii. Amiens, with its dix minutes d'arrct, whence "La Belle Gabriellc" d'Estrees sprung to be the favourite of Henry Quatre, and where IVL Gambetta descended after his aerial voyage from Paris on the 7th October, 1870. Then Paris — of which it is not the province of this book to speak — Chalons-sur- Mame, hereafter to be historic as the spot whence, on the 20th August, 1870, the Due de Magenta marched with his army to relieve Metz, only to be checkmated at Sedan. Nancy, with its magnificent gates, thi-ough which " the four Uhlans " rode in triumph as avant couriers of the army of the Crown Prince. Strasbourg, whose great cathedral, masterpiece of Erwin of Steinbach, fortunately remains unscathed after the feu d'eu/er hurled on the brave garrison, and its braver commander General Uhrich, by their unfriendly neighbours the Badeners ; the bridge connecting with Kehl blown up by the 32 ROUTE THE S ECO Nil Germans at the outbreak of the war is now rcbuiU, but enough devastalic. exists in the ruined sites of the Library and Theatre, where a holocaust of 2cc persons was offered up to the Nemesis of vvar, to reahse vividly the bluru words of Hosea Biglow — which though well known seem almost too irreverent to English readers to quote at length. Stuttgart — geographically the capital of Wiirtemburg, a small city on a small river in a small valley, surrounded by small hills crowned to their summits, with vines giving rise to the epigram — Si Ton ne cueillait a Stuttgart le raisin, I.a ville irait se noyer dans le vin ; — a couplet more remarkable for its truth than poetry, as the honest Wiirtem- burgers would be the last persons to waste their vintage or adopt the opinion of Louis Ouinze, " Apr&s moi le deluge." It may be said to date its present standing to the erection of Wurtemburg from an electorate into a kingdom by Napoleon in 1805, as it owed its origin and name to Eberhard, Count of Wurtemburg, who was created a duke by the Emperor Maximilian in the fifteenth century, and who here founded his stud, Stttten-Garten. The equatorial line may be said to be the Konigsstrasse, a fine street three- quarters of a mile in length, in which will be found the Konigsbau. The Residenz, or New Palace, in the Schloss Platz, contains two wings, each with fifty apartments, both of which ai'e so much alike that time and trouble will be saved by two friends adopting the idea of the swell in Punch, each doing his half and then comparing notes. The Royal Stables, " Leibstall," immediately behind, is the next interesting building, and still maintains for the city the title of Stuten-Garten. These may be inspected daily from i to 3 P.M., the Palace for 36 ks., the stables for 12 ks., his Majesty of Wurtemburg, like his Grace of Marlborough, reading "Noblesse oblige" with an addition "to pay." The Stiftskirche contains some modern stained glass and eleven monuments to the Counts and Dukes of Wurtemburg ; beside is the Schiller Platz, with its statue of Schiller, by Thorwaldsen, the poet having been boni at the neighbouring village of Marbach on the Neckar, where his birthplace may be seen preserved in its original condition. Augsburg, historically noted for the Diet of 1530, held by Charles V., where he was presented with " The Augsburg Confession," framed by Melanchthon, as having been the home of the Fuggers, the Rothschilds of the Middle Ages, the head of which is now both a mediatized prince and a Jesuit, and the only one of his order who can brave the mandates of Prince Bismarck and remain in Prussian territory, and for the former beauty of its girls, three daughters having married — Philippina Welser, whose monument in the Silver Chapel of the Kof Kirche is, with that of Maximilian, one of the sights of Innsbruck, having married the Arch-Duke Ferdinand of Austria ; Clara Detten, the Elector Frederick the Victorious, of the Palatinate ; and Agnes Bernauer, the Duke Albert III. of Bavaria. The Golden Hall in the Rathhaus, and the room in the Drei Mohren (Three Moors), the oldest ROUTE THE SECOND. 33 inn in Germany, and of which mention was made so far back as 1361, in v\hich Count Fuggcr entertained Charles V., exist in their original condition. Munich — Miinchcn — which may be called the Athens of Germany, exists a monument of the good taste of King Ludwig, and may be looked upon as a city of palaces and museums. In the churcli of St. Michael is the monu- ment to the uncle of Napoleon III. ; Eugene Bcauharnais, Duke of Lcich- tenberg. Ex-vice King of Italy and brother to Queen Hortense, executed Ijy Thorwaldsen and sculptured by Schwanthaler, will be found in the Frauen Kirche and Auer Kirche ; in the latter fifty-two windows designed by Hess, whose frescoes may be seen in the Basilica of St. Boniface, and the AUer- heiligen Kirche (All Saints' Church) ; and the Reiche Capellc contains a portable altar, six inches long, used by Marie Stuart. Munich, as the head quarters of German art, displays everywhere evidences in the works of Schwanthaler, Schnorr, Hess, Cornelius, and Kaulbach. In the Konigsbau the Nibelungen frescoes in the five rooms attest the genius and patience of Schnorr, the Festsaalbau contains his encaustic paintings in the Hall of Charlemagne, the history of Rudolph in the Hapsburg Saloon, while the Throne Saloon is adorned by twelve magnificent statues, by Schwanthaler, of the ancestors of the house of Wittelsbach, from Otho the Illustrious of Bavaria to the " illustrious madman" Charles XII. of Sweden. ,, The Old Pinakothek, in nine large saloons and twenty-three cabinets, em- braces a total of 1,300 pictures, the Boisserife collection, purchased by King Ludwig, consisting of works of art of the Early German School to the Late Dutch, from Meister Wilhelm Roger Van der Weyden to Rembrandt and Teniers and Van Steen. The first saloon, works of Albrecht Uurer and his master, Wohlgemuth, the fourth, those of Rubens, the fifth, portraits by Van I))ck, the sixth, the Murillos, the seventh, eighth, and ninth, masterpieces by the Italian Alasters, including Raftaelle, Carlo Dolce, Titian, Giotto, Andrea del Sarto, and Leonardo da Vinci. The " Loggie," in a series of frescoes by Cornelius, runs through the entire history of Art from the days of the Temple of Solomon to the decoration of the Luxembourg by Peter Paul Rubens. The New Pinakothek, with exterior frescoes by Kaulbach, is devoted to modern works, and both collections would rec[uire a guide to themselves to do justice to their contents. The Glyptothek, in some twelve halls, carries one back to the golden age of Grecian Art in the times of Phidias and Praxiteles, and forward to the recent days of Canova, Thorwaldsen, Ranch, and Danncker. The Schwanthaler Museum, opposite the house formerly occupied by the great sculptor, con- tains the casts of his most important works. These, with the Ruhmeshalle, or Hall of Fame, and the colossal bronze statue of Bavaria, by Schwanthaler, fifty-six feet in height, on a pedestal of forty feet, from the ledges of which a fine prospect may be obtained, will afford ample occupation to the visitor for from one day to at least a v.cek. Salzburg is equally remarkable for the beauty of its position and the fact 34 ROUTE THE THIRD. that it is the birthplace of Mozart, the house in which the great composer was born being shown in the Getreidegasse, and that occupied by him in the Hannibal Platz, a statue to him by Sch wan thaler standing in the place named after him, As a halting place Salzburg will well reward all lovers of the picturesque, every variety of scenery being comprised in a circuit of a few miles, mountain, plain, and garden. The Cagliostro of his day, Theophrastus Paracelsus, lived and died here, who, though he did not discover the philosopher's stone or the elixir vita, was undoubtedly the inventor of laudanum, which he called " laudanduni," a thing to be praised. From Salzburg, tourists may make a brief excursion to the salt mines of Berchtesgaden and the Konigs-See, or Lake of St. Bartholomew, the most beautiful lake in Germany, unsurpassed even by those of Switzerland and Italy, or our own Killarney and Windermere. Continuing the direct route the rail passes the Waller-See ; further on is seen the old Chateau of Buckheim, and the HoUengebirge, and Lambach, with its church dedicated to the Trinity, triangular in form, having three towers, paved with marbles of three various colours, and to reduce the price of which to 333,333 florins, the surplus was distributed among 333 poor persons. At Wels is the branch line to Passau, principally noted for the old castle of Prince Auersperg, in which the Emperor Maximilian died. The journey to Vienna will be resumed in the Fourth Route. Route the Third. — To Hamburg direct the traveller has a chance of five different lines of steamers — one from London, three from Hull, and one from Grimsby ; — From London every Friday morning from off Horsleydown by the steamers Capella and Castor, calling at Brunswick Pier, Blackwall, for passengers ; the fares — £p. saloon, and ;i^i 5^-. fore cabin. The hours of sailing may be learned from Drolenvaux and Bremner, 40, Seething Lane. Should the tourist leave by this route he is recommended to take train from Fenchurch Street Station to Blackwall, as tire landing stairs are beset by a horde of harpies in league with the watermen, who each seize some portion of luggage to carry down the stairs, and insist on separate payment for their services. The watermen, too, are inclined to be extortionate ; the best plan with them is to say nothing ; but, having selected " your trim-built wherry," direct the waterman to go to the steamer, and when all your " traps " are safely on deck, not before, settle the fare, being but sixpence for each person, and twopence for each parcel. The watei'man, if asked, especially on the stairs or in the boat, will demand at least half-a-crown, knowing the passenger must employ him or one of his confreres, and competitive prices are unknown in these districts. From Hull one line leaves every Tuesday, — single fares, 30J., return, 45^'. — by the Panther or Tiger. All information promptly given by the owners, Brownlow, Lumsden, and Co., Hull. A second line, by the steamers belonging to Messrs. Lee and Co., 9, Pier Street, Hull, leaves for Hamburg, and vice versa, every Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday during the season. As these steamers carry cattle ROUTE THE THIRD. 37 the passenger fares are very moderate ; full particulars as to sailing, &c.,may be had on application to the owners. The third line of communication, viA Hull and Hamburg, every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday by the steamers Fairy and Sprite. Fares — first cabin, ;i^i \os. ; second Cabin, £\. Applications for dates and hours of sailing to Lofthouse, Glover, and Co., Hull. Vid Grimsby : — the steamers leave from the Grimsby Docks immediately after the arrival of the train due at 6.15 P.M. on Wednesdays and Saturdays ; single fare, ^i \os, return, ^2 5^. Full information given on application to Messrs. John Sutcliffe and Co., shipping agents, Grimsby. All these routes imply a long sea passage ; but, as Mrs. CJlasse has it, there is yet another way by the Antwerp Company's steamship Baron Osy, leaving St. Katherine's Wharf, near the Tower, each Sunday at noon, and conducting the tourist vid Antwerp and Cologne. The average passage to Hamburg from London is about fifty hours, though, of course, cela depend. About six hours before reaching Hamburg the steamer will pass the smallest possession owning a goveyior to itself of the British Crown, the Island of Heligoland (Holyland), so named from a Temple of Hertha (the Goddess of Earth), which stood on it in Saxon days. Its total length is i mile, by a breadth of Y^x^ of a mile ; it consists of an Upper and Lower Town — the former reached by steps, and a horse is as great a curiosity as it was in Venice when Lord Byron " witched the world " there " Avith noble horsemanship." The Free Town of Hamburg, free, subject to the Deutscher Kaiser, consisting of the Old and New Town and St. George, may be called the Liverpool of Germany, its traffic being immense with both the Old and New Worlds, half a million of cattle being annually shipped to England. A superb view of the town and Elbe, Holstein on the north, and Hanover on the south, may be obtained from the steeple of St. Michael, the height of which is no less than 456 ft. St. Nicholas, destroyed in the great fire of 1842, has been restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, and the principal other attractions for visitors are in the daytime the Exchange at one o'clock, when it is crowded with merchants, the Botanical Gardens, a very large Zoological Garden, with fine Aquarium, in which concerts are given on Mondays and Fridays. In the evening the great resort is the Jungfraustief (Maiden's Walk), round the Alster Bassin, a fine sheet of water, surrounded on three sides by cafes, the railway forming the fourth, the effect of the various lights reflected on the water at night being charming, and, in fact, forming the feature of the place. Altona, a suburb, was formerly noteworthy for the fact of being Danish territory, the German and Danish sentinels meeting on their beats ; but its name, one given it by a Danish King, "Altona," too near, has been realised, as since the settlement (?) of the Schleswig-Holstein question it has been incorporated in the German Empire. The distance from Hamburg to Berlin is 176 miles, generally done in about 6^ hours by express ; fares— ist class, 25 marcs, about ^i 5^. ; and and, 17 marcs or groschen, a little over 1 7 shillings. 3§ ROUTE THE THIRD. Berlin, though remarkable for its public buildings, is the ^parvenu of European capitals, its oldest edifice being the Church of St. Nicholas, and remarkable alike for combining all the principal defects of the various periods of Gothic architecture, and for the tomb of the celebrated Puffendorf As the visitor will in all probability make a sojourn of a few days the following hotels may be recommended : — Hotel de Rome, one of the largest and best : Hotel d'Angleterre, Hotel de I'Europe, Traubenstrasse, — moderate charges — English spoken ; and Hotel du Pare, Thiergarten, Hotel du Nord, Unter den Linden, central position, and moderate charges ; besides many others. The Post-Office is in the Konigsstrasse, open from 7 a.im. to 8 P.M. Letters reach England on the second day, via Ostend ; postage, 5 s.gr. The principal telegraph office is in the Schutzenstrasse, 19, and at all Post-Offices. Theatres at 6 and 6.30. Best shops in Unter den Linden, Schloss Platz, Bruderstrasse, Jaegerstrasse, Leipzigerstrasse, &c. Berlin is the capital of Prussia, situated on the river Spree, 127 feet above the level of the sea, scattered over a sandy plain, with very wide streets, in 52°3i' N. latitude, and 13° 24' E. longitude. It has 2iobezirka and four suburbs, 476 streets, 58 squares, and 2,000 houses ; and it is one of the largest and handsomest cities of Europe, being about 12 miles in circumference, with 60 churches, 37 bridges, &c., upwards of loo public schools, and as many of a private description ; its charitable and scientific institutions' are very numerous. Its manufactures consist of locomotives (Borsig's great works), wool, cotton, silk, ribbons, porcelain and stone-ware, bronze, gold and silver ware, straw-hats, artificial flowers, &c. Few dine in their hotels, prices being much higher, as in Paris, and indeed every city, but in the Hotel St. Petersburg there is a table d'hote daily for 2J., and a list of some of the principal restaurants and pastrycooks may be found of service : — Cafes Restaurant, Royal, Linden 76. Maison Doree, Schadowstrasse 14, Castelli, Linden 64. Conditoreien (Pastrycooks), Stehely, Charlottenstrasse 53 ; Josty, Stoeh- bahn i ; Weise, Jaegerstrasse 38. Bierstuben (mostly restaurants), Wagner, Charlottenstrasse 56 ; Braun, Leipzigerstrasse 30 ; Klausing, Zimmerstrasse 80 ; Munchner Brauhaus, Johannistrasse 14. Railroad Termini. — To Potsdam (in 40 minutes), outside the Potsdam Gate ; to Leipsic, Magdeburg, and Hanover, outside the Anhalt Gate ; to Stettin, outside the Oranienburg Gate ; to Frankfurt-on-the-Oder, near the Sti^alauer Platz. The distance from the four stations to the centre of the city averages one mile. The station for Frankfort-on-Oder, Konigsberg, Peters- burg, &c., is upwards of two miles from that for Cologne. English Episcopal Chapel. — In the Royal Palace of Monbijon. Service begins at 1 1 o'clock ; Sacrament administered first Sunday in every month. American and British Union Service, conducted by ministers of all denominations, in the American Chapel, 5, Junkersstrasse, every Sunday morning at ii>^ A.M. Sunday School at 10 A,M., and Social Bible Reading- Meeting every Sunday evening at 7^4^ p.m. kOtJTE THE THIRD. 39 Open droskies, drawn by one horse, stand in the streets. Fare : — One person, 5 silber groschen ; 2 persons, 6 s.gr. ; 3 persons, 7 s.gr. ; 4 persons 8 s.gr, ; one or two boxes, 2^ s.gr. ; per hour for 3 persons, 15 s.gr. and xiYz s.gr. ; 4 persons, 10 s.gr. ; at night by the last train, or in the morning before 7 o'clock, 7^2 s.gr. each course. The regulations as to charges are hung up in every vehicle. Omnibuses do not attend railway stations, but ply constantly from one end of the city to the other, and also from the suburbs to places distant three or four miles from the city. Fares average lyi to 3 s.gr. the whole distance, which is divided into fares i><, 2, ^yi, s.gr. In and near the celebrated Unter den Linden the principal buildings are centred — the Schloss, Palace of the Emperor, the Palace of the Crown Prince, the Museum, Opera, and University. The Schloss is remarkable alike for size and for its sumptuous interior ; the State apartments are shown by the Castellan, who lives in the second court on the second floor. The Rittcrsaal (Knights' Hall) contains the throne and a superb collection of gold and silver plate, and the rooms inhabited by Frederick the Great will be found at the corner of the building facing the Schloss Platz. Among the more remarkable pictures will be found Charles I. and Queen Henrietta, by Van Dyck, a portrait of the father of the present Emperor, by Sir Thomas Lawrence, and Napoleon crossing the Great St. Bernard, by David. The Schloss has its ghost in the person of the White Lady, whose shadowship is firmly believed in by the lower orders of the Berliners. The Arsenal (Zeughaus) contains a rare collection of implements of destruction, amongst others tAvo battery guns used by Gustavus Adolphus in the Thirty Years' War, and a field-piece, called Die Schone Taube (beautiful dove). The Museum is more noted for its exquisite frescoes by Kaulbach on the staircase and walls representing the wanderings of the children of Israel, and for a huge exterior fresco by Cornelius, than for the rarity of its contents. In the Place de I'Arsenal will be found statues of General Scharnhorst, to whose administrative skill Prussia owes her present military supremacy, Bulow, old Vorwarts Blucher, and Gneisenau ; and the statue of Frederick the Great, by Ranch, so well known by models and engravings, is admittedly one of the finest monuments in the world. The New Museum is a chaste cdi'ncc, by the architect Schinkel. Before the Museum stands a gigantic basin, cut out of one solid piece of granite, 22 feet in diameter. The Sculpture and Picture Galleries are open daily to the public (Sundays excepted),— in the summer from 10 to 4, in the winter season from 10 to 3 o'clock. The collection of vases and bronzes can only be visited on Wednesdays ; the entrance is at the back of the Museum. The King has lately added a new building to the Museum, in extent twice its size, and most beautifully decorated : the Treppenhaus, or Staircase Hall, adorned with wall-paintings from designs by Kaulbach, is perhaps the finest in Europe. Amongst the bronzes there is a xcry beautiful antique found in thn bed of the Tiber. It is a perfect work of art ; the subject is a boy praying. 46 ROUTE THE THIRD. The collection of paintings is very rich in early masters, of which a catalogue may be obtained. The Royal Library is a very tasteless building, built, it is said, after the model of a chest of drawers by command of Frederick the Great, with 500,000 volumes and 500 manuscripts ; the most interesting of which are an album with six beautiful miniature portraits, by Lucas Cranach, and Guten- berg's Bible, the first printed with movable types. The reading-room is daily open ; the apartments, however, in which are kept the periodical publications^ are open only from 10 to 12, and admission by ticket from the principal librarian. The University is a large beautiful building, with the natural history museum and zoological cabinet open every Tuesday and Friday from 12 to 2 ; admission only by ticket, which is given out by the director ; the mineralogical cabinet, the anatomical museum, open every Wednesday and Saturday from 4 to 6 in the summer, and from 2 to 4 o'clock in the winter ; admission by ticket only. The Arsenal, built 1695, by Schlueter, is considered a master-work, in the pure style ; tickets of admission to be procured at No. I, Mollars-gasse. The new Schauspiel Haus on the Gendarmen Martel is a very imposing building ; the picture gallery of Prince Raczinsky is well worth visiting ; the Palace of Prince Charles, No. 9, Wilhelmsplatz ; Palace of Prince Albert, 102, Wilhelmsstrasse, built by Schinkel. The new Rath- haus in the Konigsstrasse deserves notice ; KroU's winter garden in the Thiergarten, a noble park of some 8,000 acres, is also worthy a visit. Besides the Opera-haus, Berlin has a Konigs Schauspiel-haus, built 1819, to accommodate 2,500 persons ; Meysels Theater, with 600 gas-lights, and salons for balls, concerts, &c. ; the Friedrich Wilhelmstaeder Theater, for 1,600 persons, &c. Berlin has above 100 learned and artistic Vereine (Associations). The Thiergarten is the great public walk of Berlin, with a white marble statute of Frederick William Ill.^y Drake. The Kreuzberg is in the Botanic Garden, and has a national monument to commemorate the battles of 18 13 to 18 15. There is a tramway from the Dorotheen Strasse, and past the Brandenburg Gate to Charlottenburg, fare 2^ groschen. The grounds are good. The principal object is the Mausoleum, in which are two beautiful recumbent figures of Frederick William III. and his queen by Rauch. The drive thither is very pleasant. The court of the old Schloss has a fine bronze statue of " George and the Dragon," Kiss's last work, well worth visiting. To Potsdam from the Potsdam Eisenbahn (station) off the Konigsgratzer Strasse. This, usually styled the Prussian Versailles, was founded by the Great Elector, but owes its present splendour to Frederick the Great, being indeed a town of palaces, even the private houses being built in emulation of their neighbours. The Royal Palace contains the apartments of Frederick, his bed, his piano, the furniture he used, and the clothes he wore. Near to Potsdam is the Palace of Sans Souci, containing his bed-room and the clock which he always wound up with his own hands, and which, it is said, stopped at the moment of his death, and still points the hour, 30 minutes past 2. I'RIVATE ENTRANCE TO THE EMPERORS PALACE ROUTE THE THIRD. 43 Dresden, capital of the kingdom of Saxony, and a favourite residence of English people, celebrated for cheap living, cheap good music, and works of art. It is situated on both banks of the Elbe, which are united by two beautiful bridges, 552 yards long, and consists of the Altstadt on the left bank and Neustadt on the right bank. The Hotels in Dresden arc of a superior description, and those mentioned below are well situated and considered among the best. The charges are moderate, and the fare is excellent. Hotel Belle Vue, De Russie, De France, Kronprinz, Stadt Leipzig, Stadt Wein, Stadt London, Royal, Stadt Coburg. Hotel de Saxe, a first-class Hotel, very highly spoken of. Hotel Zum Golden Engel.— Kept by Jos. Herion, proprietor. — A very good house, highly recommended. Victoria Hotel. — This magnificent, first-rate, and highly-recommended house is kept by Mr. Carl Weiss. Restaurants : Belvedere, Deville, Hellig, Brewery Restaurants, Engel, Lussert. Cafds : Trepp, Lessig, Francais. During the height of the Dresden season it is scarcely possible to secure rooms in the principal hotels by writing beforehand ; the hotels, however, ai'c numerous, and accommodation ample. Prices of first-class hotels : — Room, 15 to 16 gr. ; dinner, at 4 o'clock, i th., with wine ; candles, 8 to 10 s.gr. ; breakfast, 7 to 10 s.gr. ; service per day, 10 s.gr. Hackney Carriages : — i hour for i person, each course, 5 n.gr. ; for 2 persons, ^yi n.gr. ; 2 horses, for 2 persons, each course, 1 1 n.gr. ; 3 persons, 15 n.gr. ; i horse, each half-hour, 7^ and 12 j^ n.gi'. ; 2 horses, 10, 15, and 20 n.gr. ; a carriage and pair of horses, for i day, 4 th. 10 gr. ; the coachman (valet de place), per day, i th., half-day, 20 gr. Churches, &C. — Hofkirche, Ascension by Mengs, fine music, Sundays 1 1.30 to 3 P.M. Frauenkirche, steeple 200 ft. high. Palaces. — Palace of Bruhi ; Japanese Palace ; fine gardens. Konigsschloss, tower 250 ft. high. Hof Theater, one of the finest in Germany ; statues of Goethe, Schiller, Mozart, Sophocles, Aristophanes, &c. Arsenal. Neues Museum, entrance for Sundays, 12 to 3 ; Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 10 to 4 ; fee, 5 groschcn ; contains ancient sculpture, 250,000 engravings, Lome the richest that exist. On the first story is the celebrated Picture Gallery, containing 1,882 paintings, and 2,059 works, including pastels. The most noted pieces are Raphael's " Virgin of St. Sixtus," Correggio's " Notte," Titian's " Peter's Pence," &c., and 50 landscapes of Canaletti. Catalogues to be had at the doors. The Grime Gewblbc, or Green Vaults, underneath, contain treasures of art valued at three million thalers ; the stone from which the vaults receive their name is the celebrated Green Diamond, weighing 160 carats. Amongst the other treasures are the Regalia used at the Coronation of Augustus 1 1, of Saxony and King of Poland, C 2 44 ROUTE THE THIRD. and that employed at the Coronation of the Kings of Saxony. Many of the walks are charming-, amongst others the gardens of the Japanese Palace, and the Gross Garten by the Elbe. Excursions — Monument to Moreau (red granite), on spot where he fell in battle, 1813. Baths of Linke, half-hour. Hostonwitz, where Weber composed " Oberon " and the " Freyschiitz ; " Loschwitz, where the poet Korner was born, and Schiller composed " Don Carlos," &c. The Historical Museum has a fine collection of arms (Sobieski's, worn at the siege of Vienna), tents (of Kara Mustapha, same siege), the sword of Charles XII., a fine collection of porcelain, an antiquity museum (Alterthumer Museum) rich in mediaeval treasures, a library (300,000 vols.), fee, 10 groschen, a mineralogical collection, open 10 to 12 o'clock. Tickets for the Green Vaults, engravings, china, and armoury are good for six persons. Royal Library, open daily for public use, till i o'clock. Passengers between Dresden and Prague must remember that at Boden- bach the Bohemian frontier is reached, and luggage examined, as should they omit this ceremony, the luggage is coolly set on one side on the platform and the unconscious traveller proceeds luggageless, besides having either to return his stages or send back his keys, a process consuming some two days, decidedly an unpleasant one when ladies are concerned. As the examination is a mere matter of form, the traveller will do well to be prepared with his keys, though generally the trunks are little more than opened, reclosed, and sealed. Prague. — The ancient capital of Bohemia is one of the most interesting cities in all Germany, both from its numerous handsome and mediaeval resi- dences, and from the beauty of its situation, in the valley of the Moldau ; the prospect from the hill in the rear of the city (Hradchin), in the evening light, looking over the sixty quaint spires, is unique, and its historical associations ;ire linked with all the gi-eat events in German story. Here the Hussite insurrection broke out in 1419, under Ziska. Two centuries later, in 1618, from the Palace on the Hradschin (Hrad, in Bohemian, meaning a steep hill), the Imperial Councillors Slawatr and Martinitz, together with their .Secretary Fabricius, were thrown from the window of the Council Chamber, a height of nearly eighty feet, but, fortunately alighting on a dunghill, escaped with a severe shaking, Fabricius, the last to take the involuntary leap, falling on his superiors ; in consideration of his sufferings he was created Graf Von Hohenfall, in English, Count of Somerset ; two small obelisks yet mark the spot. This led to the Thirty Years' War, which only ended with the siege and plunder of Prague, in 1648, by the Swedes, having been previously besieged in 1632 by the Elector of Saxony, John George, and afterwards in 1744 by Frederick the Great, who here in 1757 defeated the Austrians under Charles of Lorraine. The Untere Neustadt contains the Konigshof, the ancient palace of the Kings of Bohemia (now barracks). 2. National Museum, in the fine Kolowrat Strasse, open Tuesday and Friday 9 to 12 ; other days, for 25 kreutzers. It contains fine collections of natural history, manuscripts, &c. ROUTE THE THIRD. 45 3. The Ross, or Horse Market, one of the largest in Austria, with a statue of St. John Nepomucene (the patron of the town.) In Obere Neustadt are the Garden of Salm, with 25,000 plants ; the large Lunatic Asylum ; the Church of the Assumption, erected 1351 — a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. In the Carolinerthal suburb are the Hotel des Invalides, and 2,000 veterans ; the Church of St. Methodius and St. Cyril, still unfinished ; and the Railway Viaduct, on 87 arches. Hotels :— Golden Angel, near the Railway Station ; Englischer Hof ; Hotel d'Angleterre, first class for families and gentlemen. Hotel de I'Etoile Bleue ; Hotel Schwarzer Ross ; Stadt Wien ; Kaiser von Oestreich. Restaurants. — Steintz, Wenzeler, Binder. Cafes. — Wien, Prag. Good one at Terminus. Droskies (Cabs). — Fares in the town, 25 to 50 kr., according to distance. One hour, 60 kr. ; half an hour, 20 kr. Two-horse cabs, 50 kr. to I fl. in the town, according to distance ; half an hour, 40 kr. ; one hour, 80 kr. first hour, 75 kr. the following. Post-Office and Telegraph. — Schillingsgasse. Altstadt, or the Old Town, contains the Grosse Ring, or Great Square. 2. Teynkirda, built in the ninth centuiy, with a remarkable porch, and the tomb of Tycho Brahe. 3. The Rathhaus, with a remarkable mechanical clock, made in 1496, by Master Hanuscht. The University, founded 1348, had 200 professors and 30,000 students ; but John Huss, trying to exclude foreigners, led to its desertion by 25,000 students, who went to found the Universities of Heidelberg, Leipzig, and Cracow. Their number is at present 2,000. Circumference, i}i German mile ; divided into Altstadt and Neustadt on one bank of the Moldau, and into Kleinseite and Hradschin on the other, forming four towns. It contains 50 churches, 22 chapels, 17 convents, 2 Protestant churches, 11 synagogues, 189 towers, 3 public and 19 private libraries, and 354 manufactories. Neustadt, where travellers are generally deposited, was founded in 1 348. The Kreusherrenkirche is an imitation of St. Peter's of Rome. The Theatre of 1783 can hold 2,000 persons. The Bohemian Theatre gives four repre- sentations a week. The Elementium (formerly the Jesuits' College) contains two churches, two chapels, a great many collections, the Observatory, and the University, — Library with 35,000 MSS. The Karls Monument was erected in 1848, at the 500th anniversary of the University. Monument to Francis I. on the Quay, The Moldau Bridge (called Karl's or Konigsbriickc), 1,171 metres only, has been rebuilt, and has the venerated statue of the city patron, St. John Nepomucene. The Kleinseite, the aristocratic quarter, contains the palace of Count Nostitz Rinck, with a fine picture gallery ; and the palace of Wallenstein ; fee 35 kr. to view it. This, built by the celebrated Albert, hero of the Thirty Years' War, and of Schiller's drama, contains the charger that bore him at Liitzen, stuffed ; another souvenir of this doubly- celebrated battle-field being the monument in the burial ground, at the foot 46 ROUTE THE THIRD. of the Ziskaberg, to the Prussian General, Scharnhorst, who died of the wounds received at Liitzen in 1813. The Artillery Arsenal, the Botanical Garden, and the statue of Radetzky, are in this quarter. The Hradschin, on a hill above the Moldau, contains the Acropolis of Prague, tirst built by Queen Libussa. Here are the Imperial Castle of St. Wenceslas (entrance 11 to i — fee, i florin), with its 440 chambers. The Cathedral of St. Vitus, founded 930, has a fine tower of 128 metres, good frescoes, and the rich tomb of St. John Nepomucene ; the chapel of St. Wen- ceslas, with the arms of the saint and the Regalia. At the Hradschin are also the Archbishop's Palace ; the old palace of Sternberg, with 600 paintings ; the Monastery of Strakow, with 500 paintings and 65,000 vols. Near Prague, between the Woltschen and Molberg, is the battle-field where Frederick the Great defeated the Austrians in 1757. There is a fine prospect of the town from Laurenzeberg. Promenades on the bulwarks, the Sophia, or Dyers Island (with eating and bath-houses,) Protection Island, Castle Garden, and People's Garden. Beautiful Bohemian glass, for which this place is famous, can be obtained at Hofmann's, &c. The bridge, wdth its twenty-eight statues of saints, was begun in the reign of the Emperor Charles IV., 1355, and finished in 1507, and is at once the handsomest and longest bridge in Germany. The eighth statue is that of St. John Nepomucene, and the spot from which he was throAvn into the river is marked by a cross with five stars on the parapet. The old watch-tower at the end of the bridge, next the Altstadt, preserved the town from falling into the hands of the Swedes in 1648. Three miles from the to^vn, on the Ziskaberg side, is the scene of the Battle of Prague, gained by Frederick the Great in the Seven Years' War, when his favourite general, Ziethen, fell, but still more remarkable for the fearful musical composition, in which the " cries of the wounded " are heard, which all who have Listened to must remember Avith horror. To see Prague a guide is indispensable ; about 5^. a day is ample pay. From Prague to Vienna. — Between the stations Bodmischbrod and Podiebrod the great battle was fought in 1434, which terminated the Hussite insurrection, and in w^hich both the leaders, Procopius " the Greater " and " the Less," fell. Near Kolin is an isolated hill on the right, surmounted by an obelisk, in commemoration of the victor}- gained by the Austrian INIarshal, Daun, over Frederick the Great, June iSth, 1757 (a day destined afterwards to be still more remarkable), when the Prussians were obliged to evacuate Bohemia. At Pardubitz many will find a still more pleasant prospect in a well-stocked buffet, with ten minutes' delay (usually) to enjoy it. Further on is Bnmn, where, in the Spielberg, Trenck, colonel of the Paudown, died in captivity, in 1749, and Avhere, also, Count Silvio Pellico passed the eight drear}' years of his life, from 1822-30, which he has immortalised in his " Prizioni." At the next station, Raigem, Napoleon posted his reserves STATl'K OF THK KMl'EROR FRANCIS I. OK AUSTRIA ROUTE THE FOURTH. 49 under Davoiist, which did such damage to the Austrians retreating from Austerhtz. Near Gansemdorf was fought the Battle of Wagram, on July 5th and 6th, 1809, which concluded in the retreat of the latter to Zaaim. Now on the right the Leopoldsberg with its castle, and then the Kallenberg become visible, and above the wooded islands of the Danube the spire of St. Stephen's, the centre of the travellei-'s bourne — Vienna. Route the Fourth. — The journey to Harwich needs no description, as it is generally performed in the dark ; but one place of interest is passed— Colchester, alike renowned for being the birthplace of Constantine the Great and his mother, the Empress Helena, and for its oysters, the only worthy rivals to those of Whitstable, par nobile fratrum. The train is brought alongside the Packet Wharf at Harwich, and the traveller is recommended to go on board without delay. First secure a berth, and next a place at table, where an excellent meal, varying, of course, according to the hour, is provided for the sum of two shillings. As frequently an hour or more elapses between the arrival at and departure from Harwich, the tourist will do well to turn in, and, if possible, " forget the world, its toils, and its cares," till he arrives in the channel of the Maas, as the German Ocean presents few attractions, and if he has been so fortunate as to have been "rocked in the cradle of the deep" to a refreshing slumber, the stillness of the water will assuredly awaken him. The first land, or more properly sand, caught a glimpse of at the mouth of the Maas is known as the Hoek Van Holland, and thence to Brielle the prospect is one of sandy dunes, schuyts, and later on, half-submerged willow trees. At Brielle the Custom House officers make their appearance to examine the luggage, a search rather stricter with them than the traveller will elsewhere find en route. Brielle, where the tercentenary of Dutch independence was last year celebrated, was taken from the Spaniards, in 1572, by the Water Gueusen, or Beggars, under William de la Marck, a bold stroke that paved the way for the expulsion of the Spaniards, and is the birthplace of the celebrated admirals, De Witt and Van Tromp, the latter the worthy opponent of our Blake. The city of Rotterdam appears suddenly on the scene, the quaint town of St. Laurence forming a prominent object in the riverscape, but so low is the appearance of the city as to recall the words of Butler, A land that rides at anchor, and is moored, In which they do not live but go on board. Passing the Boompjcs— pronounced Boompies — so called either from the little trees (now large ones) with which it is planted, or from the boom piles on which it is built, the steamer stops at the Quay, which is the Belg- en-Ryn Spoorweg, or Dutch-Rhenish Station ; a name the tourist will do well to bear in mind, as in inquiring for the station on his return he may possibly be directed to the Hollandische Ijzeren Spoorweg near the Delftgate, at the opposite extremity of the city. Passing by a very pretty row of houses known as the Old Place, and 56 ROUTE THE FOURTH. crossing two or three bridges, the traveller Avill find himself in the Groote- Markt, where with Thomas Hood he can " make his salaam to the statue of Erasmus." Keeping St. Laurence as a landmark, you enter its portals, though with the exception of the fine organ, superior, it is said, to that of Haarlem, monuments to Admirals De Witt, Van Brakel, and Schoudtbijnacht (Vice- Admiral) Van Brakel, a fine brass screen, and a number of quaintly-carved tombstones, there is little to arrest his attention, the Church within having been churchwardenised and whitewashed out of all beauty, and without presenting the appearance of a large brick barrack. Near to it in the Breede Kerk Straat, is the house in which Gerrit Gerritz, to give Desiderius Erasmus his real nam.e, first saw the light. Easily accessible to all wa}^arers, a strange commentar}' on the author of " The Praise of Folly,"' his birthplace is now a Gasthaus, where abundant potations of schiedam are daily quafted. There is no necessity for a guide ; with a map of the \.ovm. in hand one may wander about untrammelled, deriving more pleasure from the quaint appearance of the buildings, the constant cigar, the mirrors outside each window, and the schuyts moored all through the canal, than by an}- set plan for viewing this " vulgar Venice." Giving a glance at the Museum, it will be well to take a " vigilante," 60 cents, the course, to the Zoological Gardens near the Delft Gate (all which seen Rotterdam may be considered as done), and if time permits a visit should be paid to the Hague, a distance of only fourteen miles, noted for the best collection of the Butch School extant, in the Mauritz Haus, including Paul Potter's " Bull," Rembrandt's "Anatomical Lesson," the portraits of the two wives of Rubens, Catherine Brientz and Eleanor Forman, and Van Dyck's portrait of Simon, the artist In the lower stor}^ of the same building is the Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, comprising Japanese and Chinese productions, rare now even in Cathay, and many historical relics, including the armour of Van Tromp and de Ruyter, the sword 'of Van Speyk, who blew up his band before Antwerp, first having coolly lit his pipe ; the chair in which General Chasse sat during its siege, and the dress worn by William the Silent at Delft. All these the traveller may see, and yet catch the train for Gouda, corresponding with his train for Emmerich, or should he elect to remain in Rotterdam he can procure an excellent dinner at a moderate price at the new Bath Hotel. From Rotterdam to Gouda the prospect may be summed up as meadows, ditches, windmills, pollard willows, cows wrapped up in cloths — in Holland even the horses wear caps to preserve them from neuralgia — and summer-houses planted beside stagnant ditches ; one glance out of the windov*- will suffice for the entire journey. Gouda. — Having passed through the polders, fertile, doubtless, but mar- vellously uninteresting, a brief halt is here made. The town is chiefly noted for two productions, — its pipes, in the manufacture of which the male portion of its population is employed ; and its cheeses, well known throughout Holland and the Continent, finding occupation for the fairer half of the Goudese cottagers. The cathedral is also remarkable for its windows, thirty- one in number, by two brothers Wouter and Dirk Krabette. One given by ROUTE THE FOURTH, ^^ Philip and Mary of England contains their portraits ; these are said to be the most perfect specimens of the art now existing, surpassing even in beauty our Fairford windows ; but though the traveller may stop if so minded, it is probable he will content himself with a knowledge of the fact, as the train bears him on to Utrecht. Utrecht, known to the Romans as Trajedum ad Rhenuin, and afterwards Ulira-Trajcctum, from which its modern name is corrupted, built on the con- fluence of the old Rhine with the Vecht, will be remembered through its treaty in 17 1 3, which ended the war of the Spanish succession. Here also the Act of Confederation by which the Seven United Provinces declared themselves independent of Spain was signed in the Auditorium (Public Hall) of the Univer- sity in 1579. A tablet on the University walls notes the event, the inscription running "Atrium Sapiential, incunabula Libertatis" — "The Hall of Wisdom, the Cradle of Liberty." The remains of its former cathedral consist of the tower, standing alone, nearly 350 ft. in height, from which a splendid view can be obtained over nearly all Holland, admission twenty cents, and the Choir, containing the tombs of the Emperors Conrad II. and Henry V. of Germany, the Dutch Mint and the Pope's House are the other buildings of note. The latter, the " Pauz huizen," was built by Adrian Floriszoon, tutor of Charles V., aftenvards Pope Adrian VI., the house in which he was born still standing in the Oude Gracht. The Jansenists, the Alte Katholiks, or Old Catholics of Holland, so called from Jansenius, Bishop of Ypres, have made it the See of their Archbishop, and their Church bears for its dedication the inscription, " To God." As this is the Clapham Junction of Holland, care must be taken not to enter a wrong train, as several start at the same time in different directions. Arnheim, the next town of note, is prettily situated on the Rhine. The fortifications by Coehorn, the rival of Vauban, are now trans- formed into pleasant walks. The cathedral is remarkable for its excellent carillon and the monuments to the Dukes of Gueldres, of which it is the capital. And here Sir Philip Sidney died, from the effects of the wounds received at the battle of Zutphen in 1586. Zevenaar, between Arnheim and Emmerich, being the first station in Holland, luggage is examined in the passage from Cologne, on the outward route from Emmerich, when the picket haubc}-, or spiked helmet, first makes its first appearance. Emmerich. — Luggage examined, after which supper and an excellent bed can be procured at the Hotel d'Angleterre, near the station. En route again in the morning at 7*50 for Cologne. After Emmerich, the next important station is Wesel, on the junction of the Lippe and the Rhine, at present principally remarkable for the fact of being a Prussian fortress, and Chalons on a small scale. In all probability the tourist will from the train have an opportunity of witnessing a parade drill under the Black Eagle, like Time, never standing for a moment still. Oberhausen — halt of a few minutes, then on to Dusseldorf, where an excellent buffet will be found, and though renowned for its modern school of painting, under the auspices of Cornelius (one of our most eminent artists, Mr. Dobson, not only studied here, but 52 ROUTE THE FOURTH. displays in his works the influence of that school), it presents too much the appearance of a business manufacturing town to detain those whose pursuit is simply pleasure. Deutz, on the left bank of the Rhine, facing Cologne. As some trains go no further, the traveller must cross the river by the new bridge to reach Cologne, for which see Route the First. The Rhine. — ^As far as Bonn the route by rail on the right possesses no interest. Bonn. — Here the scenic Rhine commences, extending almost to Mayence, with mountains sweeping to the river, vineclad terraces, knolls crowned by ruined castles, little villages nestling in quiet corners, and islands whose monasteries seem indeed cut off from the strife and bustle of the world. This place, the residence of the Elector of Cologne, is now noted for its University, at Avhich Prince Albert received his education. Amongst its professors were Niebuhr, the historian, to whose memory a monument by Rauch is erected in the cemetery, and Schlegel, who also rests near his former confrere. Beethoven was born here in the Bonngasse ; his statue will be seen in the Miinsterplatz. The principal buildings are the University, formerly the Electoral Palace, containing a library of 200,000 volumes, lecture-rooms, an academical hall, painted under the direction of Cornelius, and the Museum of Rhenish Antiquities, arranged under the care of Schlegel. Bonn has many pretty walks, that called " Der Alte ZoU," from which a fine view of the river and the Siebengebirge is obtained, and the excellent double avenue of chestnuts, half a mile in length, leading to the Chateau de Poppels- dorf, with its Geological Museum, and to the Botanic Garden, from which a walk of a quarter of an hour takes one to the Church on the Kreutzberg. The Minster, in the Byzantine style, contains a bronze monument of its founder, St. Helena, mother of Constantine the Great. It is well to take your seat at the left of the carriage, as the principal objects of interest are on the opposite bank of the river, of which otherwise no notice will be taken. The Siebengebirge, or Seven Mountains, highest and most picturesque of the many on the Rhine banks, are of volcanic origin, and, heaped in orderly disorder, form a frontier chain to the river they seem to guard. Their names and heights are as follows : — Stromberg, 1,053 f^et ; Nieder- stromberg, 1,066 feet ; Oelberg, 1,453 feet, the highest ; Wolkenberg, 1,055 feet; Drachenfels, 1,056 feet ; Lowenberg, 1,514 feet ; and Hemmerich ; all are crowned by some ruined town, convent-cell, or chapel, all are beautiful, whether seen in the early morning with the mist rising from the river, in the broad noon day, or when their summits are gilded by the declining rays, the heavens glowing with clouds, purple, crimson, and magenta, and the darkling villages pierced by stray lights from rustic casements. Konigswinter at the base is the halting place from which one starts for the ascent of the " castled crag of Drachenfels." On the ascent you see the quariy from which stones were taken for the Cathedral of Cologne, stones not remarkable for any good qualities, and their decay has necessitated the restoration of the Dom Kirche. CHARACTER SKETCHES— BEFORli TlIK U)T\y.K\ UIFJCE ROUTE THE FOURTH. 55 luLMAlX OF THE AKCliUCKi. ALliKKCHT On the right Rolandseck, companion to its opposite neighl>our Drachenfels, receiving its name from Roland, the nephew of Charlemagne, who chose the spot as it overlooked Nonnenwcrth, where "his betrothed was confined. Schiller has founded on the legend one of his most lovely ballads, " The Knight of Toggcnberg." The island of Nonncnwerth is now diverted from its original purpose to that of an excellent hotel, renowned for its dinners, in which fish — carp, tench, and eels — play a principal part. Near at hand is the exquisite Gothic Church of Apollinarisberg, the property of Count Furstenberg, and built by Zwirner, the restorer of Cologne Cathedral. At Erpeler Lei on the left bank rises a precipice of black basalt, in the crevices of which vines are planted in baskets ; a little further the walls of the ruined Castle of Ockenfels, below which lies Linz, a small town which has shared the fortunes of war in the days of the Archbishop of Cologne, having been at constant feud with its neighbour, Andernach, in 1476 having been taken by Charles le Temcraire, in 1632 by the Swedes, and in 1688 by the French. On the right lies Andernach, bearing traces everywhere of its Roman origin, in its walls and 56 ROUTE THE FOURTH. gate, which stand as firmly as on the day when they first left the hands of the builders. The Dom is well worthy of inspection, both for the carvings on the exterior and the quaint arrangement of the inside, the men sitting in an upper tier called the " Mannstraus," the women below. In this neighbour- hood, "trass," a kind of volcanic sand made from tufa or tuft stone, is quarried, burnt, and converted into bricks or cement, operations which may be seen on every side. Opposite is Neuwied, containing the castle of the mediatised Duke, over which floats the Dutch flag. On the right is Weissenthurm (White Tower), near which is the monument erected to General Hoche by the "Army of the Sambre and Meuse," 1797, to commemorate his passage of the Rhine at this point. Hoche was the greatest of the Revolutionary generals, and destined commander of the army for the invasion of Ireland in 1798. Near Kesselheim is the Chateau of Schonbornlust, from which the Due d'Enghien, last survivor of the princely Condd, was treacherously hurried to meet with his fate in the fosse of Vincennes on March 20, 1804. And now Coblentz is reached on the left bank of the Rhine and right of the Moselle ; on the opposite bank frowns Ehrenbreitstein, the " broad stone of honour," called the Gibraltar of the Rhine, on whose fortifications the sum of ^^1,800,000 is said to have been expended. The Church of St. Castor with its four towers, the picturesque old bridge, the chateau with the distant fortress and broad rolling river, form a scene of unique beauty, celebrated alike by pen and pencil. ' A quarter of a mile from the Moselle bridge is the monument to General Marceau, who was killed at the Battle of Altenkirchen, in attempting to check the retreat of Jourdan, on the last day of the fourth year of the French Repviblic, Sept. 21, 1796. On the other side of the monument is the inscription " Qui que tu sois, ami ou ennemi, de ce jeune hero respecte les cendres," and Byron's lines will be remembered on him who " kept the whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept." Stolzenfels, " the proud rock," so well known from views, seems too modern, in fact the restoration has been too complete to excite much interest, but the situation is charming, and the view commanded from it embracing the valley of the Lahn to its junction Vidth the Rhine, and the great river embracing Coblentz, Ehrenbreitstein, with Andernach in the distance, one of the picturesque even in this land of scenery. At Rheuse, the electors formerly met in the Konigstuhl (king's seat), with 7 stone seats. Boppard, hke Andernach, one of the camps of Drusus, and displaying like it its Roman origin, principally celebrated at present for the hydropathic establishments of Marienberg and Muhlbad. At Salzig we pass through a forest of cherry trees, while opposite on the left bank are the ruins of Sternberg and Liebenstein, called from two brothers, their former occu- pants, who for love of some fair dame waged war till, like the Kilkenny Cats, only the tales of their loves and hatreds remain. Then Welmich, over which stands the Castle of Thurmberg, known as " The Mouse," which in old times was watched by its neighbour " The Cat," at St. Goarhausen. But at St. Goar we, like the ill-fated young monk, plunge into the wildest of kOUTJE THE FOURTH. 57 the many legends of the Lurlcy, the fair Rhine syren, subject of painting, poem, and opera. Above St. Goar is the Rheinfcls, opposite St. Goarhausen, with the ruins of the "Cats' Castle;" on the left the rock of the Lurlei or Lurleiberg, running down precipitately to the river, forming a grotesque face. Here the Rhine steamers fire off a cannon, the echo of which is repeated fifteen times, and a little higher up in the bed of the channel are the rocks of the Sicben Jungfrauen, the seven sisters who formerly inhabited the Castle of Schonberg (the beautiful hill), from which place Marshal Schomberg, the General of the Boyne, derived his name. On the right bank is the picturesque village of Oberwesel, with its lofty Ox Tower (Ochsenthurm) and exquisite Church of Our Lady (Liebfraukirche), its many turreted walls and quaint old buildings. On the left is Caub, where Blucher crossed the Rhine on a pontoon bridge on. New Year's night, 1S14, above it Gutenfels, so called, it is said, from Guda, the lady-love of Richard of Cornwall, Emperor of Germany, brother to out- Henry III. ; and in the middle of the stream is the curious old castle called the Pfalz, built by the Emperor Lewis the Bavarian as a toll house, and said to have been the place of refuge of the Countesses Palatine under interesting circumstances. On the right Bacharach, the altar of Bacchus, so called from a rock in the centre of the river visible at low water, and which merits its name as the centre of the vine district of the Rhine and emporium for their vintages. Like Andernach and Boppard it is surrounded by antique walls, crowned by twelve towers remarkable for having only three walls, leaving, like the Redan at Sebastopol, the side to the town open, so that if an enemy did gain possession he might not be able to hold them. Around us now on every side are vineyards bearing names dear to connoisseurs. Rheinstein, now a castle of Prince Frederick of Prussia ; Assmanshausen, with its terrace vineyards extending to a height of t,ooo feet above the river, sometimes as many as twenty terraces rising one over the other, the vines being held in baskets. In this district, known as the Rheingau, the slaty formation of the hills serves as a natural hot house, and thus brings the grape to an earlier and fuller maturity. Round here is produced the Johannisberg, Steinberg, Rudesheim, and Rothenberg, and Assmanshausen, the best among the red wines of the Rhine. Now in the centre of the river is an islet known as the Mausethurm (Mouse Tower), on which Southey founded his ballad of " Bishop Hatto," and which serves Longfellow for a pretty conceit in his " Childre'n's Hour " — They devour me with kisses so, their arms about me entwine Till I feel like the Bishop of Bingen in his Mouse Tower on the Rhine. With Bingen we leave the Rhine banks till we arrive at Mayence. This centre alike of commerce and scenery is in the lovely valley of tlie Nahr ; here the river makes a considerable l)end, giving it the appearance of a lake, and not only its site, but the surrounding scenery, is in every way charming. Near the town is the ruin of Klopp or Drusus' Castle and Rochers Capelle, D S8 ROUTE THE FOURTH. ' ■ the Chapel of St. Roch, commanding a prospect up and down the river. Descending to the Scharlachkopf one has a view of the valleys and windings of the Nahr, the distant horizon bounded by the Hundsruck Mountains and Donnersberg, while beneath lie the bridge and town of Bingen. Kreuznach, celebrated for its springs, w-hich cure the gout, probably induced by too liberal a use of the product of its neighbours Rudesheim and Oberstein, can also be visited, and an excursion to Rupertsberg and the Ellsenhohe forms a change in this kaleidoscope of landscape. In Mayence w^e enter the territory of the Grand Duke of Hesse Darmstadt. The old palace of the Prince Archbishops of Mayence, the Kurfurstliche Schloss, is now a museum of Germ^an antiquities. It was always of hio-h im- portance as a fortress, and in the old days of the German Confederation it was garrisoned by Austrian and Prussian troops in equal numbers, commanded by a Governor selected alternately from each nation for five years. Since the events of iS66 it has always been the seat of a powerful Prussian garrison. The Cathedral, built like that of Chester of Old Red sandstone, dates from the loth, and was finished in the nth century. Its interior has been of late restored with great care, and elaborated with gilt ornaments and frescoes. Two of the tombs, though insignificant as monuments, are remarkable in their history, that of Fastrada, third wife of Charlemagne, by the side of the " Beautiful Doorway " leading into the cloisters, the other that of Heinrich "\"on Meissen, Canon of the Cathedral, known as the " Minnesanger Frauen Hof," or Henry Praise the Ladies ; his bier was borne by eight of the most beautiful damsels of Mayence, and his memory has been enshrined in one of Longfellow's most charming ballads ; whilst a statue by Schwanthaler erected by the ladies of Mayence shows that with the fair ]\Iayencers " gratitude is not a lively sense of favours to come," but that they still keep gi-een the memoiy of their champion. In the nave is a monument to St. Boniface, an Englishman, first Archbishop of Mayence, and the patron saint of Germany. In olden days the Archbishop was also Elector, with the right of placing the crown on the head of the German Emperors, and the revenues were so immense that the Canons of the Cathedral were so remarkable for the luxuiy of their cuisine and the excellence of their cellar as to draw forth a rebuke from one of the Popes, to whom they returned the jovial answer that " We have more Mine than we need for the mass and not enough to turn our mills." In the citadel is the tomb of Drusus, son-in-law of Auoaistus traces of whose former rule will be found all through the Rhine territon'. Here was born Hans Gansfleisch (goose flesh), known as Gutembero- the inventor of moveable types ; in the open place before the theatre stands his statue by Thonvaldsen, and in the Museum may be seen his first Psalter. From Mayence the train proceeds to Damistadt, capital of the Grand Duchv the most interesting building being the Museum of Natural Historj', with a Tinique collection of Saurian and fossil remains, and in the Louisenplatz is a fine statue of the Grand Duke Louis I. by Schwantlialer. Thence to Wurz- burg, charmingly situated on the Maine, for more than a thousand years, from ROUTE THE FOURTH. 6i the eighth century, when St. Kilian the apostle of Franconia was martyred on the site of the Dom, the capital of the Prince-Bishops, eighty-two of whom have held sway both as Bishops and Princes of the Empire. The Cathedral is principally remarkable for its monuments to the former prelates. The Royal, formerly Episcopal, Palace, is noteworthy for its size and magnificence, while in the Julius Spital the aged sick and poor are lodged as in a palace. No one should leave Wurzburg without visiting the Marienberg, from which a superb view of the city, the winding Main, backed by the picturesque hills producing the Stein wine, and without tasting both it and that of Leiste, grown on the Citadel hill. Fiirth, within five miles of Niirnberg, was celebrated in the past for the battle between Gustavus Adolphus and Wallenstein in 1632, ending in the retreat of the Swedish King, and in the present for the first railway, in 1835-6, constructed in Germany, running from it to Niirnberg. Nuremberg (German Niirnberg), this Quaint old town of toil and traffic, Quaint old town of art and song, preserves more than any other city in Europe all the characteristics which distinguished it in the days when it was the most wealthy entrepot in the world, the greatest of Imperial Free Cities, the residence of emperors, and the home of German " art and song." Chester in its " rows " and walls still maintains much of its medieval character ; Rouen till of late was thoroughly " vioyen age." Canterbury possesses some relics coming down from the days of " The Pilgrims ; " and Rochester can boast some houses that might have looked down on Jack Falstaff, Prince Hal, and his merrie men. But with all, wherever improvement has stepped in the old landmarks have been abolished, and the nineteenth and fifteenth centuries meet in unpleasant contrast. Not so here; every new building is carefully modelled on the old lines, and the general effect is that of a mediaeval city full of lusty hfe and vigour, neither decaying through inanition, nor galvanised into a spurious vitality. From the Railway Station, two minutes' walk takes one to the Fraiienthurm, one of the four round towers that still adorn the walls. Everywhere is life, but it is not modern life ; the carts are drawn, not by horses, but by a twain of bullocks ; the long trucks lumber along, or with their drivers and oxen rest quietly in the corners of the streets, or the middle of the squares. The telegraph wires soar over head ; but they bear tidings farther onward, and the quiet stream of Nuremberg life flows as tranquilly as the Pegnitz that laves its banks. The two churches, St. Lawrence and St. Sebald, the first on the north, the second on the' south bank, give their names to the two quarters of the town. St. Lawrence, within five minutes of the Railway Station, is unique among churches, both for its preservation and for the works it contains wrought by Nuremberg artists in days of yore. Prjncipal is the " Sacraments Haiislcin," 64 ft. high, towering upward^ 63 ROUTE THE FOURTH. to the roof, where, as Longfellow expresses it, it bows its head, like the calyx of a flower ; so exquisite is the design, so fine the workmanship, and so fresh the appearance, that it is almost impossible to beUeve that it is not moulded, but really carved in stone. Three kneeling figures bear it on their shoulders, Adam Kraft and his two apprentices, who expended four years of continuous labour on this gem of sculptured art. Near it, hanging from the groined ceiling, is a quaint carvhig in wood, the " Salutation of the Virgin by the Angel," the work of Veit Ston, who also executed a Crucifix near the Volkamer Window. This, one of the many stained glass windows which decorate the building, is, with the Rose Window, considered the finest speci- men of the art for which Nuremberg was renowned. The Church of St. Sebald, also an exquisite specimen of Gothic, now devoted to the Lutheran service, still preserves all the art trophies which form its glory, principal among which is the exquisite shrine of St. Sebaldus, the work of Peter Vischer, who, with his five sons, for fifteen years made it a labour of love ; the figures of the Twelve Apostles, in drapery, modeUing, and expression of features, are works of art without equal amongst others of their diminutive proportions. * Opposite the church is the beautiful oriel window of the Parsonage. The Rathhaus, with its Council Chamber, in which still stands the chair of Maximilian, its frescoes by Albrecht Durer, its collection of pictures, and its tournament moulded in life-size figures on a passage in the third story of the building, must not be omitted. The statue of the " Gansemannchen," or Little Goose Man, and the Schoner Bruner, both beside the Frauenkirche, must also be noted, together with the statue of Albrecht Durer in the Milch-Markt, and the curious fountain. Besides St. Lawrence, the German Museum with a fresco by Kaulbach, the interior of Albrecht Durer's house at the Thiergarten Gate, and the exterior of the " Nassauer Haus," all claim attention. But in some six hours the tourist can form an excellent idea of the city, not omitting to ascend the Tower, now a fire station, at the Thiergarten Gate, see the view from the top, visit the Imperial Castle, with its lime tree, said to be 700 years old, and planted by Cimigonde, see the well 300 ft. deep, shown by lighted candles lowered to the water, near the Heidenthurm, go to St. John's Churchyard, passing by the " Stations " executed by Adam Kraft, and visit the grave of Albrecht Durer, No. 649, and that of Hans Sachs, the cobbler poet. No. 503. < All these are within the compass of an easy day's work, with ample time for the excellent table d'hote at one o'clock at the Bayerischer Hof The artist can spend many days and find " bits" at every turning ; on the bridges, where the houses overhang the water, in the fosse, the towers, in fact everyv/here. Nuremberg lies out of the general route, but it is worthy of even a longer detour to enjoy so rare an artistic treat. On to Regensburg, with Augsburg and Nuremburg, a relic of the past, the great Cathedral, with the two older churches attached, one Romanesque, twelfth century, the other said to be 1,200 years old, the Jacobs Kirche and the Rathhaus, with its torture chamber, and the Walhalla, six miles distant, built on the model of the Partiienon, will only occupy a day. On to HISTORY OF VIENNA. 63 Passau, when one enters the Austrian frontier, and where luggage is examined — a mere form — and an excellent buffet is to be found. The scenery to Linz is charming, reminding one in its wooded knolls •of Surrey, and in its hop-gardens of Kent, and again, in the peculiar •steeples of its churches, suggesting Russia. Linz, on the right bank of the 'Danube, is remarkable for the beauty of its situation ; the traveller, if so ■minded, can leave the rail and take boat for Vienna, one leaving daily at •8 A.M., changing about five miles from the city into a smaller boat for the JJanube Canal. By taking this route one passes Durrenstein, the prison where Coeur de Lion was found by faithful Blondel. All resting in Linz should ask for Schill, a kind of trout, the dish of the place, and have it served mit butter unci erdiipfeln (butter and potatoes), which will not be the least agreeable amongst their souvenirs. Enns, with its walls built from Coeur de Lion's ransom, Kemmelbach, charming views of the Danube, and Styrian Alps. Molk, with its Benedictine Monastery, resembling a palace. Purkens- dorf beside the Wien. Penzing, near which lies Schonbrunn — and VIENNA. From this we skirt the Danube. Seats should be taken on the left of the train, many of the river stretches surpass the Rhine in scenery, though the associations and legends may be wanting. Vienna. — The earliest account of this great city is when Tiberius led his legions to the foot of the Kalenberg, thirteen years before the Christian era, and found a Keltic colony, called Vindes, settled there, from whence he gave the name of Vindobona to the station he established. Here Marcus Aurelius died ; after the fall of the Roman Empire the province of Pannonia, with its capital, Vienna, was overrun in turns by the Huns, Goths, and Lom- bards. Christianity was established in the sixth century by St. Severin, from which period dates the most ancient church in Vienna, that of St. Rupert, in the Kienmarkt. In 791 Charlemagne, after a battle which lasted (for several days, drove the Hungarians beyond the Raal, and created Markgraves (the synonym for our marcjuis, guardian of the Marches) to pro- tect the country between the Leytha and the Enns, which then first received the name of Oester-Reich (hence our Austria), as forming the eastermost boundary of his dominions. In the loth century Otho the Second created Leopold of Babenberg Margrave of Austria, whose descendants reigned by this title till the eighth Margrave of the race, Henri II., Jasomirgott, w-ho was raised to the rank of Duke of Higher and Lower Austria, and who fixed his residence at Vienna. During his reign of thirty years he did much for the capital, and to him the Cathedral, St. Stephen's, owes its foundation. In those days the Gra- ben was a ditch of the fortress, St. Stephen, the Kolnmarkt, and the Kiirtner- strasse were beyond the walls, and the Wolzeille (where the present head Post Office is situated) was a suburb. In 1 192 Ricli^tct Coeur de Lion, returning from the Holy Land, was made.a prisoi\e^, and' for some time imprisoned in the Erdberg, prior to his remoy^jiV l)0; Durvenstcin on the Danube, where he was 64 HISTORY OF VIENNA. said to have been discovered by the faithful Blondel, after a durance of fifteen months. In the reign of Leopold the Glorious, from Ii98toi23o, St. Stephen's, the Wolzeile, the Kartnerstrasse, and the Scotch Abbey, were included within the line of fortifications, and the foundations of a castle were laid on the present site of the Schweizerhof. At this time Vienna was under the spiritual jurisdiction of the Bishop of Passau. His successor, Frederick the Warlike, waged constant warfare alike with his neighbours, his citizens, and the Emperor Frederick II. The first two succumbed, but he was defeated by the Emperor, who made Vienna a Free City of the Empire. The Hungarians invaded the Duchy of Austria in 1264, and Frederick attacking them on the plain of Neustadt defeated them, but perished himself on the 15th of June, and with him ended the line of Babenberg. An interregnum of some thirty years occurred, when King Wenceslaus, of Bohemia, sent his son Ottokar at the head of an army for the invasion of Austria, and having captured Vienna, was elected duke, and succeeding his father as King of Bohemia, still retained his dukedom. But with Rudolph of Hapsburg, the present history of the Empire may be said to have begun. Landgrave of Alsace, or as we must now call it, Elsass, he was elected Emperor of Germany, and finding everything in confusion, prepared to assert his sovereign rights. Ottokar, called on to do homage, refused, but Rudolph, marching against him with a numerous army, compelled him to rest satisfied with his hereditary territories of Bohemia and Moravia, and to restore Austria to the Empire. Ottokar, again trying conclusions, was defeated and slain at Marckfeld in 1278 by Rudolph and his ally, Ladislas IV., King of Hungary. After this decisive battle, the States of the Empire elected Albert, son of Rudolph, the Dtike of Austria. The history of the two next centuries is one of family quarrels, civic revolts, wars, fai-pines, and plagues, and on the ist of June, 1485, Matthew Corvinus, King of Hungary, after a reign of four months, entering Vienna in triumph, made it his residence. After his death in 1490, Maximilian the First, son of the Emperor Frederic, entered Austria, and, after a siege of but ten days, drove out the Hungarians. Dying in 15 19, the Spanish branch of the Habsburgs inherited the monarchy under the Archduke Ferdinand, brother of Charles V. In 1526 Soliman II. having conquered Persia, Syria, and Egypt, resolved to add Central Europe to his conquests, and having defeated the Hungarians at Mohacz in 1526, the road to Vienna lay open to him. Arriving before the walls of the city on the 26th of September, 1529, he invested it with an army of 200,000 men, a prodigious number of horses, camels, and munitions of war. Thirty thousand tents were pitched on the plain, 600 boats held possession of the island of the Danube, and 300 cannon were planted in position. The garrison of Vienna consisted only of 20,000 soldiers, 2,000 horsemen, and a citizen force of about 1,000. But thanks to the valour of their commander, Count Nicholas Salm, they resisted every assault, and after his defeat on the 14th of October, Soliman resolved to raise the siege, having first slaughtered all prisoners of war, and €* ClIAKACTKK, SKETCHES— A HARPIST HISTORY OF VIENNA. 67 having left 30,000 killed and wounded before the city. The Kiirntner Thur, the site of the present Kartner Ring, was the seat of the principal attacks, no less than nineteen assaults being launched against this gate. During the Thirty Years' War Vienna was threatened by the Swedes, but the Swedish General Torstens, on not receiving the expected supports, fell back on Bruner. In 1648 the Thirty Years' War ended, and the Emperor Frederick III. dying in 1657, his successor Leopold I. devoted himself to the reconstruction of the fortifications, which he established on a scale of unparalleled strength for those days. But an enemy was now to establish itself in the city, against whom neither bastions nor enceintes could avail, and to hold possession for the space of fifteen months ; it was the " Black Death," and no less than 125,000 fell victims to his power. The peculiar monument erected in the Graben, executed by Fischer of Erlach, by the command of Leopold, and known as the Column of the Holy Trinity, was erected in memory of its cessation. Hardly had the city recovered from its losses than the Hungarians, under their chief, Tokely, revolting, proposed to the Sultan Achmet 111. to become his vassals, and in the autumn of 1682 the Grand Vizier Kara Mustapha, joining forces with Tokely, at the head of 400,000 men marched for Vienna. All the countries of Europe felt that Christianity trembled in the balance ; all but one, the eldest son of the Church, Louis Ouatorze, the Rex Perriwigius of Thackeray, held aloof. Fortunately, encumbered with numbers, the march of the Turkish army was slow, and the Viennese had all the winter and spring to prepare for their defence. New ditches were dug, new stockades erected, the inhabitants of the suburbs were compelled to labour at the fortifications, and each citizen was obliged either to lay up provisions for a year or to quit the city. On the 7th of July, 1683, the Emperor and his Court fled to Linz, and on the following day a long train of waggons encumbered with baggage of every description, and accompanied by 50,000 souls, left the city, their midnight march lit up by the flames of the Convent of the Camaldules on the heights of the Kalenberg, their first token of the near approach of the Turkish horde. On the 14th of July the enemy swarmed into the plains of Vienna, and on the 17th the commander of the city, Count Rudiger de Starhemberg, with 20,000 men all told, of whom but 8,000 were soldiers, found himself isolated, shut out from all assistance, in the midst of a savage multitude who swarmed like wolves around the beleaguered city. A month passed of constant assaults by the Turks, and repulses by the garrison, of mines sprung in every direction, and combats in every quarter. Each time that the smoke of an explosion clearedaway soldiers and citizens sprang into the ditch to repair the damaged walls. But towards the end of August food began to fail. One side of the city was dismantled, the external works were sapped, destroyed by repeated explosions ; whilst the moats were half filled up. The Turks had reached thp inner wall ; the besieged rained down boiling water aad b'u.ning pitch. 68 HIS TORY OF VIENNA. On the 3rd of September the bastion of the Castle was taken, and the two neighbouring ones threatened ; and had Kara IMustapha launched his forces against the city it must have fallen ; but he wished to starve out the garrison, as were the city given over to assault much of the treasiu-e would be destroyed or lost, and he disappointed of his expected " loot." But help was at hand. Duke George of Saxony, Maximilian of Bavaria, Prince Louis of Baden, the Prince of Waldeck, the JMargrave of Be}Teuth, the Duke Charles of Lorraine, and John Sobieski, King of Poland, came to the relief; and on September 12, 1683, the King unfurled the Christian standard on the heights of Kalenberg, and the stone seat is still shown more than halfway up in the tower of the Cathedral, from -ft-hence Count Starhemberg, the bra^'e com- mander, saw the armies which had come to his relief On this 1 2th day of September mass was celebrated on the Kalenberg, at which the King himself assisted. Then — . . . . Waged the battle on the plain. Spears shook, and falchions flashed amain — and all Poland's army with resistless force — 85,000 to 100,000, fell upon the ]Moslems — the rest being engaged in the siege. The Turks occupied Nussdorf, on the shores of the Danube and foot of the mountain, to oppose the coming avalanche ; but by midnight the torrent swept everjthing before it ; their batteries were taken, their flanks turned, their lines pierced. One last attempt did Kara make to retrieve his desperate fortunes, throwing himself at the head of the elite of his troops into a redoubt between Gersthof and Weinhaus ; but after four furious attacks the position was carried, and Count Starhemberg at the same time sallpng forth from Vienna with the remains of his garrison, the Turks fled on every- side, leaving tents, treasures, and all, nor did their "stampede" cease till they found themselves outside Austrian dominions. More than 25,000 Turks fell, 15,000 tents and an enormous treasure com- pensated the Christians, 370 cannons were taken, iSo of which were melted down to form the big bell of St. Stephen's, the Holy Standard, the green flag of jMahomet, still hangs in the Imperial Arsenal (Kaiserliches Zeughaus) whilst the end of Kara JNIustapha is shown in his head and the cord with which he received the bowstring preserv^ed in the Toavti Arsenal (Bur- gerliches Zeughaus). The Church of Maria Trost was built on the spot where Kara Mustapha pitched his tent. In 1405 there had been a chiu-ch dedi- cated to St. Uh-ich ; demolished by the Turks in 1529, it was rebuilt in 1533, only to be again destroyed in 1683, and again rebuilt in its present condition. The reigns of the two successors of Leopold, Joseph I., and Charles VI. were comparatively peaceful In the latter reign many of the monuments and churches at present existing were erected by Fischer of Erlach, amongst others the Church of St. Charles Borromeo, built by Martinelli, after his designs, a considerable portion of the Hofburg (Imperial Castle), including the Batthyany staircase. The Royal stables in the HofstallstrassCj the Palac^ HISTORY OF VIENNA. 69 of the Prince Schwarzenberg in the Reussweg, the Column of the Holy Trinity in the Graben, ah-eady spoken of. In 1723, the Pope established the Archbishopric of Vienna, and till the death of Charles VI. in 1740 peace reigned, and Austria was indeed " Austria Felix." But with the reign of Maria Theresa came fresh troubles ; France, Prussia, and Bavaria declared war against her ; Silesia was torn from her by Frederick the Great ; and for seven years she had to wage war against Mr. Carlyle's hero. Peace came in 1748, and the remainder of the reign of her, whom her "faithful Hun- garians " styled " Rex Noster," was devoted to the well-being of her people, to founding hospitals, establishing schools, encouraging the arts and sciences, and beautifying her city. Joseph II. continued the work begun by his noble mother, not only in beautifying the city — the park, known as the Augarten, was founded by him — but also in numerous reforms. With his mother ended the line of Hapsburg ; with Joseph commenced that of the present Imperial family, Hapsburg- Lorraine. The reforms of Joseph were thorough. On the isth October, 1771, he published a Decree of Religious Toleration, and on the ist of November he abolished Serfdom. At the same time he set about suppressing convents, all but those whose occupants devoted themselves either to the education of the poor or the healing of the sick (and the reform was needed, for at the commencement of his reign there was no less than 2,100 convents in Austria), and in increasing the number of parishes and schools. Francis II. succeeded him, and felt the unhappy effects of the French Revolution ; Marie-Antoinette was murdered, and he could hold out no helping hand ; perpetually engaged in war, he could not even hold his own ; and in 1805 Napoleon entered the capital, the first invader from the days of Matthew Corvinus. On the 22nd June, 1809, the Viennese could see from the steeple" of St. Stephen's the Battle of Aspern, which lasted two days,, and ended with the retreat of the French army on Lobciu. But on the 6th July the scale was turned at Wagram, and as 600 pieces of cannon shook the city with their feu d'enfer, the French were vic- torious, with the loss of 12,000 killed, and 45,000 wounded. An armistice ensued. The French " requisitioned " largely, the Viennese paying 1 1 ,000,000 of florins, a modest sum when we consider recent exactions, and furnishing an enormous quantity of food and army supplies; recompensed, however, for their losses by the pleasure of contributing largely, on the 15th August, to the FUte Napoleo7i, which was held, with unusual magnificence, in the Austrian capital. Other horrors were in store, for on the 5th March, Marshal Berthier, on the part of Napoleon, demanded the hand of the Archduchess Marie- Louise, who set out on the 1 3th for her new home. Poor Josephine, as all the world knows, retired to Malmaison, and from that hour Napoleon's star waned till it sunk in darkness on an ocean rock. It must here be mentioned that on the 6th August, 1806, Francis abdicated the Crown of the German Empire, and was henceforth called Francis I., Emperor of Austria. In 1814, on the 12th April, the Lridgrave of Furstenberg, with relays of 70 HISTORY OF VIENNA. 107 postillions, bore the news of Napoleon's abdication to Vienna ; and in the same year the memorable Congress at which Lord Castlereagh assisted ■ — though not decorated, he was, to quote Talleyrand, " neanmoins bien distingue " — and whilst diplomatists arranged peace to their own satisfaction, Napoleon disturbed their calculations by his escape from Elba. The Hundred Days, Waterloo, and St. Helena followed, and the "canker of a calm world and a long peace " visited Austria, together with the rest of Europe. In 1 83 1 cholera made its appearance, and the death-rate was appalling. On the 22nd July, 1832, the Due de Reichstadt died at Schonbrunn, on the bed formerly occupied by his father, the Emperor, his grandfather, mourning his death, and the danseuse, Fanny Elssler, profiting thereby ; as by his will he left her all his fortune. A plain bronze coffin in the Capuchin Church in the Neumarkt, with the inscription " Napoleonis Gallise, Imperatoris Filius," is now all that remains of the King of Rome. Beside him lies his grandfather Francis, who, after a reign of forty-three years, gave up the crown for ever the 2nd of March, 1835. It was his wish to be buried beside his grandson. " In life they had loved, and in death they were not separated." The revolu- tionary epidemic attacked Austria severely in 1848. On the 13th March the people assembling in the streets demanded the banishment of Prince Metternich, and a new canstitution. On the 15th May the Emperor granted their demands, and the Diet was assembled in Vienna, — but all too late ; the Revolution had gained ground. A Committee of Public Safety (so called on the " lucus a non lucendo " principle) was formed, on the 6th October. There was a struggle with the troops on the eve of setting out for Hungary, and after a brief combat, the sovereign people, starting for the Ministry of War, strangled the War Minister, Count Latour, on the Hofplatz ; the Imperial Court went to Olmutz ; the garrison evacuated the city, and " Le Roi Carotte" reigned. The history of the Hungarian war is well known, and the names of Kossuth, Bem, Georgey, Windischgratz, and Haynau, are " household words ;" the Emperor Ferdinand abdicated, and his nephew, the present Emperor, Francis Joseph I., son of the Archduke Francis and Sophie, daughter of Maximilian Louis, King of Bavaria, ascended the throne on the 2nd December (?. memorable date in other countries as Avell), 1848. In 1866 Vienna was again threatened by an enemy, for after Koniggratz the Prussian armies approached the capital as far as Ganserndorf and Stockerau, the latter under the vine-clad hill of Besamberg, in sight of Kloster Neuberg, in which, though none are killed or wounded, many are left hoj's de combat, situated on the opposite side of the Danube, on the Leopoldsberg, and only nine miles from Vienna. The Austrian army was concentrated on the environs, but a peace concluded the Fourteen Days' War, and Vienna was spared the horrors of a siege. In 1870, when Austria might have "recouped" herself, Alexander, remembering the Crimea, the active help given to his father by our ally of Prussia, and the doubtful friendship of Austria on the occasion, threatened to throw an army on the Danube should hostilities be meditated. Now, in 1873, the Emperor has invited the world to a peaceful ri'rn dr/iM/;/sM'sr ,;_;ilAl LL UK THE JiMl'IiKOK JOSJil'il 11. OF AUSTKIA PLAN OF VIENNA. 73 struggle in the gi'ealest of Exhibitions ; and the hotel-keepers of Vienna assert the bygone glories of Austria by their magnificent charges. The plan of Vienna is comparatively simple ; Stefans Platz (St. Stephen's Place) is the Charing Cross, and by taking the spire as a landmark — for it is visible on every side — any visitor, whose organ of locality is at all developed, will have little difficulty in finding his way about. Standing facing the west door of St. Stephen's, the Rothenthurm Strasse, on the left, leads him to the Franz-Josef Quai, where a little higher still on the left he will note the splendid pile of building, the Metropole Hotel. To his right is Ferdinand's Bridge, crossing which the street immediately facing is the Tabor Strasse, leading to the Nord-West-Bahnhof and the Augarten, while that on the right is the Prater Strasse, conducting to the Prater-Nord- Bahnhof and the Welt Ausstellung. Off the Rothenthurm Strausse on the right is the Wollzeile, which may be termed the Fleet Street of Vienna, as most of the principal newspapers have there their offices. Starting again from St. Stephen's Platz, continuing in a direct line, is the Karnthner Strasse, and starting off at a right angle is the Graben, with the " Stockam Eisen " at the - corner, at the end of which to the left is the Kolmarkt, leading to the Hofburg (the Imperial Castle) ; leaving the Herren Gasse on the right, and the Augustiner Strasse on the left, leading to the Opera House and the Karnthner Strasse. The Stadt, or the City of Vienna itself, is surrounded by the Ring, on the site of the former glacis, once having a deep fosse, high walls, and bastions {basteica), the scene of many a conflict in bygone days. The Franz Josef Quai connects these, and forms the boundary on the side of the Danube Canal. Starting from Aspern Bridge, the bridge below Ferdi- nand's at the extremity of the Franz-Josef Quai, and near the junction of the Wien with the Danube Canal, the first Ring is the Stuben, having the Custom House (Haut ZoU Aint) on the left over the Radetzky Bridge, the Museum also to the left on the Ring, and crossing the Stubenthor Bridge, the Central Markt Halle. The next Park Ring, on the left, between Stuben and the Kolowrat Rings, the Stadt Park, the Park of the City, the newest and one of the most frequented amongst the parks of the city, situated on both sides of the River Wien. It owes its origin to the decree of the Em- peror of the 20th December, 1857, the same to which the Rina" is indebted for its formation, and by which, whilst the site of the walls was given up to the Boulevards, that of the glacis was devoted to a park. The park was begun in 1862, after the plans of the artist Selleny, and under the direction of Siebek, and the Kurhaus, or Kur Salon, is a morning rendezvous for those who desire to preserve their memories of the German Bads. On the opposite side to the Stadt Park is the Blumen-Saal, or Floral Hall, devoted at certain times to flower shows, but generally given up to Promenade Concerts, and noted as the head quarters of the Viennesse chef Faber. Concluding this length of boulevard is the Kolowrat Ring, turning from which, by the Schwarzen- berg Bridge, one reaches the Heu Gasse, in which are Prince Schwarzenberg's Garden and the Bilder Gallery, and the Rennweg, on the right of which is. 74 PLAN OF VIENNA. the Belvedere and the Botanical Gardens. Turning sharp round, yet still continuing the Ring, we have the Karnthner Ring, the Opera, with its superb Opera House, the Burg Ring, on the right the Burg Garten, the Burg, and the Volks Garten, beyond the Franzens Ring leading to the Votiv-Kirche and the Schotten Ring connecting with the Franz- Josef Ouai, and completing the circuit. Without burdening the reader with more details, which will arise in due order in the more lengthened descriptions of the various localities, this broad plan of the city will give a general idea, from which he may diverge as much as his wanderings lead him or his stay permits. The city, built in a basin formed by two chains of mountains, on each side of the Danube, is yet utterly unprotected on the north-east and east, and is thus exposed to sudden changes of temperature, not otherwise to be looked for from its inland position. The Valley of the Danube has in fact an unpleasant notoriety, and the climate of Vienna would hardly bear comparison with that even of much- abused London, arctic in winter, tropical in summer, with much cold and more rain, with streets alternately " Sloughs of Despond " for mud, or invisible for dust. Though it may be a paradise to the Schneider and the sutor, it is hardly so to the wearers of the garments. In fact, were Doctor Johnson to reside here he would not require to state his preference for " the vehicular to the pedestrian mode " of conveyance, as he would be compelled in self-defence to adopt the former. Many fine views are to be obtained of the city and surrounding country, that from the top of the tower of St. Stephen's being the most extended, but from the cupola of St. Charles Borromeo probably the most picturesque. The visitor this year will also have a superb coup d'ceil from either the top balcony of the Rotunda of the Exhibition, or from that of the Water Tower, the two latter views embracing the entire plain of the Danube from the Wiener Wald and the Bisamberg to the wooded islands of the Danube below the city, whilst in the neighbourhood the points of prospect are numerous, and all picturesque to a degree. From the Leopoldsberg, the last eminence of the Wiener Wald (Mons Cetius), a superb view is gained of the city of Pressburg forty miles off, and even in fine weather of the Carpathians, and those who may not care to make the full ascent, have nearly as good a view from the terrace of the Belvedere. Omnibuses fi-om the Am Hoff take passengers to Nussdorf, about one and a half miles from the summit. The entire of Vienna, with the central point of the spire of St. Stephen's, lies before one, below Nussdorf j wooded islands, near which were fought the battles of Aspern, Essling, and Wagram ; and looking up stream the town and monastery of Kloster Neuberg, on the other side of the Danube the Bisamberg, with its vineyards producing excellent wines sold everywhere in Vienna. The famous cross, called the " Spinnerin am Kreutz," is said to have obtained its name from a damsel, who for thirty years sat and spun on this spot in the hopes of seeing her lover return frpni the Crusades, and whose patience and long PLAN OF VIENNA. 75 engasemcnt were cvcnUir.lly rewarded. Certain musty Dryasdusts say the legend is a myth, and that the cross was erected in 1547 by Crispin Poliilzer, and decorated by him with statues of his patron saints Crispinus and Crispianus, whence, say they, the corruption Spinus Kreutz and Spinnerin am Kreutz ; but we, who hold the brothers in pleasant memory on account of Agincourt and Balaclava, v/ill say, " Crispin Crispian will ne'er go by," but the Wiener Spinster, a spinster in fact as well as name, be kindly remem- bered by all lovers and married folks. The omnibus to Neustift from the Freiung passes it, and an excellent view of the city may here be obtained. Other charming prospects may be seen from the Kalenberg ; the next range to the Leopoldsberg from the wood known as the Krapfenwiildchen and Himmel (Heaven), excursions to which and other environs will be given in due course. On the right bank of the Danube are eight of the nine divisions of the city — the Alsergrund, Josefstadt, Neubau, Mariahilf, Margarethen, Wieden, Landstrasse, and the Kaiserstadt or City proper, separated from the arrondissements by the Ringstrasse already mentioned ; and on the left bank the ninth division — the Leopoldstadt and the great park of the Prater. These arrondissements — to call them quarters would be a bull, and parishes incorrect — are all marked on the numbers of the houses in different colours, starting from St. Stephen's Place, No. i on the right hand. No. 2 on the left, and so on throughout ; even numbers right, odd left. Bounding these eight on the right bank are the lines or fortifications, separating them again from the faubourgs or suburbs, extending through speculative builders in every direction. These lines extend from Spittelau, near the Franz-Josef, Bahnhof, and the Brigettenau Bridge, Brigettenau being the faubourgs on the left bank beyond the Augarten, and the Leopoldstadt to the Erdberg, and the Franz-Josef Bridge connecting the Landstrasse with the Prater. These walls are four metres in height, guarded by a moat, and pierced by forty gates (barriers). The two faubourgs of the island of the Leopoldstadt (with the Tabor Barrier) are only enclosed by the two arms of the Danube, and the entire circumference of the city and arrondissements is nearly six miles. The various barriers are Tabor and Nussdorf to the north, Wahring to the north- west, those of Hernals, Lerchenfeld, and of the Westbahn Linie (the ■\\''estern Railway) to the west, Mariahilf, Gumpendorf, and Hundsthurm to the south- west, Matzleinsdorf, Favonte, and Belvedere to the south, and St. Marx and Erdberg to the south-east. Vienna is only by a geogi-aphical fiction situated on the Danube, the regulated Danube made close to the Prater, and the Exhibition being even at a considerable distance from the centre St. Stephen's. The real streams are the Danube Canal and the Wien, an insignificant river, which, however, after lengthened rains is remarkable for its destruc- tive force. The London Bridge or Pont Neuf of Vienna is Ferdinand's, connecting the city with the Leopoldstadt ; higher up the stream is a wooden structure called the Charles Bridge, the Maria Theresa, and the Brigittenau, and lower the Suspension Bridge of Aspern, that of Francis, the Sophia E 2 -je CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLk. Bridge, and the Franz Josef. TheWien is crossed by some eighteen bridges, of which the most remarkable are Leopold's, near the " Theatre an der Wien," that of the Empress Elizabeth, with its eight statues of men eminent in the history of the Empire, the Schwarzenberg, and the Radetzky near the confluence of the Wein and Danube Canal. Of the old gates there remain but two — the Burgthor, leading to the Burg Ring, and the Franz-Josef, near the Radetzky Bridge. The principal open places or squares are the Stefansplatz, Petersplatz, Josefsplatz, Hoher Markt (High Market), Burgplatz, Neumarkt (New Market), the Graben, the Rudolfsplatz, and the Freiung. As the churches will be further mentioned in detail it is unnecessary to enlarge on them at present. The various faubourgs are on the north — the Leopoldstadt and Jagerzeile on the island of the Danube ; the Althaugrund, Lichtenthal,Thurn, and Rossau on the west ; Alsergrund, Breitefeld, Josefstadt, Strozzischegrund, Altler- chenfeld, Scholtenfeld, Neubau, St. Ulrich, and Spittelberg to the south ; Windmuhle, Laungrube, Mariahilf (Mary of Help), Magdalenengrund, Hundsthurm, Reinprechtsdorf, Margarethen, Nikolsdorf, Matzleinsdorf, Laurenzgrund, Hungelbrunn, Schaumburgergrund, Wieden, the Landstrasse, and Erdberg to the east. The appearance of the city, with the steeple of St. Stephen's towering over the houses, and the distant mountains of the Leopoldsberg and Kalenberg ending the vista of the Danube Canal, is very picturesque, and the brilliancy of the Rings at night regarded from a height is sometimes surprising, an amalgamation of our dip at Piccadilly multiplied by twenty. In whatever it may be defective Vienna is undoubtedly the best- lighted city in the world, in quantity of gas lights and in quality unsur- passed, not only in the busy thoroughfares, but in comparatively unfrequented suburbs. The Wieners have been called the French of Germany, and this description, though not in the sense in which it was originally intended, is undoubtedly true. Our lively neighbours are still lively ; such bagatelles as an utter break- down in every department of the Administration, an insignificant trifle of some 200 millions of requisition, or the pleasant sports of petroleum and matches, do not affect their equanimity. Still, though on pleasure bent, they have, like John Gilpin, " a frugal mind," and any one having anything to say to them in the matter of business will find that they thoroughly understand the hnportance of the decimal system. So with the worthy Wieners ; the theatres are all open, the various dancing saloons are in full swing from Sperls to the Neue Welt, the Prater has its myriad amusements, in which they take their part. Their politeness is perfect. You enter a cafe, your hat is doffed ; an omnibus, the same ceremony is repeated ; you ask your way in the street with a similar observance ; or take or give " fire " for a cigar with a bow that would have done honour to the Court of Louis Ouatorze, all which nuances of life are excellent and charming ; but cross the Rubicon, enter into business details, and cave canein, gave le loup, a masked battery is ready for CHARACTER SKETCHES — A SLOWAKIEN TOY HAWKER COST OF LIVING. ^9 you, and if not war to tlie knife, what is still more important war to the knife and fork is the general cry. To paraphrase the memorable saying of Mayor Beckford, the power of the gulden has increased, is increasing, and ought to be diminished ; the kreutzer still exists ; you will receive it in change, indeed the Kellner will generally favour you with a handful of them, in addition to the gulden notes, after that " mauvais quart d'heure de Rabelais," when men laugh no more, in the hope that you may be tempted to throw them at his head, in which case, like a true Christian, he would pocket the affront. But the Portier at your hotel would regard them with scorn, the gulden note is the only one which chimes in harmony with his feelings ; and even the Hauss- meister, answering to the Parisian concierge, at your lodgings, if you have been fortunate enough to have procured them, not being quite able to demand a gulden a night for admitting you after ten, has advanced his charge from three krcutzers to the decimal portion ten, and thus maintains the respectability of his native city. The omnibuses, too, have, in some instances gone up cent, per cent, within a twelvemonth, whereas the Pferdebahn, or tramways, nobly refusing to enrich their shareholders at the expense of the stranger, have divided their original course into two or three portions, each at the original fare, and thus at once bravely vindicated their honour and " saved their souls and their bacon." As " trifles make up the sum of human things," and each gulden, though insignificant in itself, with its other brethren and some kreutzers (vaiying in accordance to the agio) make up a sovereign, the visitor at present will perchance find the fine balance of his mind disturbed when he is put into a bed-room unwashed, littered with sawdust and lime, without a chair or table, or room for them, and approached by stair- cases sticky with varnish, and passages littered with whitewash buckets, and is coolly asked from five to six gulden a day for the privilege of inhabiting this paradise. " Au cinqui^me" may be disposed to grumble, especially as he is aware he will be charged a half gulden a night for " bougie," vv'hich, literally translated, means wax candle, but in the Wiener dialect, composites, eighteen to the pound ; and a gulden and a trifle for " service," said service generally consisting of putting blacking on one's boots, and omitting to rub it off again, and the privilege of ringing as long as you may wish and nobody replying thereto. Ringing the bell is a misnomer, that was a common operation, generally resulting in producing the boots or the chambermaid ; but advancing civilisation has improved the process ; you delicately touch a button, electricity is brought to bear, and your number on a square board, containing some hundred other companions, stands to the front. Admirable triumph of science ! No discord of bells, nothing to disturb the mind of the philosopher. You but touch a button at one extremity of the house and the number of your apartment springs into being at the other, simple and perfect, — but with a drawback. As this instrument requires some one constantly on guard to note the changes, and as that somebody is invariably absent, perhaps on " urgent private affairs," the performance is hardly so satisfactory as the theory. The question of meals, too, is not quite 80 THE SIGHTS OF VIENNA. Parisian, breakfast a la carte is ruinous, and dejeuner & la fourcJiette aii unknown institution, whilst the prices everywhere of dinners, most notably in the Exhibition grounds, have risen to " fever heat." Th.^ fiacres^ too, in place of being content with bygone fares, first gauge the customer, and then in Wiener dialect tell the amount, which on alighting he will generally find to be, if any distance, about two gulden. Certainly a change seems imminent, as the hotels, in place of becoming crowded, are emptying, and many of them are resting content with half the tariff they asked immediately before the opening day ; and as the Exhibition will not be in any way ready before the middle of June, if even then, and the great fetes to the Sultan and Shah will occur later in the season, all who postpone their visit may find accommodation at terms which, if not reasonable on either the Parisian or London scale (of the relative comforts of such hotels as the Grosvenor and Gi-and Hotel we dare not speak, they are furnished and complete in every detail, most of the Viennese are in all the discomfort of building and fitting up furniture), will not at least be ruinous. Till then let them leave the field to British colliery proprietors, to Americans who have " struck ile,'' Russian princes, Hungarian nobles, Roumanian Boyards, and on their arrival they will have the double gratification of seeing more and paying infinitely less. " II n')' a qu'un Paris," was once said, but now it may be remarked there is but one Vienna in prices. Admission to the Museums, Collections of Art, and Public Establishments. THE DAYS AND HOURS. Monday. Library and Collection of Engravings of the Archduke Albrecht, Augus- tinerbastei, 6. — From 9 till i. Application to the Curator. Imperial-Royal Cabinet of Medals and Antiques, Hof burg, Augustinergasse. — From 10 till 2. Application in writing to the Curator the preceding day indicating the number of visitors. Both these on Thursday as well. Gallery Schonborn, Renngasse, 4. — From 9 till 3. Also on Wednesdays and Fridays. Tuesday. Ambras Collection, Rennweg, Lower Belvedere. Also on Fridays and Sundays. — From 10 till I. Closed from December i to April 30. Imperial-Royal Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. As aboA'e. Imperial-Royal Gallery of Paintings, in Rennweg 6, High Belvedere. — From April 25 to September 30, from 9 till 5 ; in winter, from 10 till 4. Also on Frida5's and Sundays til i o'clock. The " Schatzkammer," Imperial Treasury, Hofburg Schweizerhof. — At 10. Addx-ess to the Office of the Director, Zehrngarten Stiege, 5 Stock (Zehrn- garten Stairs, sth story), on Mondays and Fiidays, giving the names and numbers of the visitors ; admission only from May to November. Also on Saturday. Imperial-Royal Institute of Geology, Randstrassc, Rasumoffskygasse.-- • From 10 till i. THE SIGHTS OF VIENNA. Z\ Museum of Sculpture and Academy of the Fine Arts, Annagasse, 3.— From 9 till 2. Also Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday. Wednesday. Imperial-Royal Cabinet of Mineralogy, Hofburg, Augustinerganz.— From 10 till I. Also on Saturdays. Gallery of Pictures of Count Harrach, Freiung, 3. — From 10 till 4. Also on Saturdays. Museum of Sculpture of the Academy of the Fine Arts. See Tuesday. Thursday. Libraiy, &c., of Archduke Albert. See Monday. Imperial-Royal Cabinet of Zoology, Hofburg, Josefsplatz. — From 9 till I. Shut in August, and should Thursday be ?ifctc xlay open on the preceding \\^cdnesday. Cabinet of Medals and Antiques. See Monday. Imperial-Royal Institution for the Blind, Josefstadterstrasse, 62. — From 9 till 5. Mint, Neumarkt, i. Apply to the Director. Workshops of the Artillery at the Imperial-Royal Arsenal, Barrier of tlio Belvedere. Card from the Commandant. Friday. Ambras Collection. See Monday. Imperial-Royal Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. See Monday. Imperial-Royal Gallery of Paintings. See Tuesday. Museum of Sculpture and Academy of Fine Arts. See Tuesday, Saturday. Gallery of Paintings of the Academy of Fine Arts, Annagasse, 3. — From 9 till 5. Schatzkammer. See Tuesday. Imperial-Royal Cabinet of Mineralogy. See Wednesday. Imperial-Royal Polytechnic Institution, Technikerstrasse, 13. — Address to the office of the Director. Imperial-Royal Institute of Deaf IMutes, Favoritenstrassc, 13. — From 10 till 12. Public Examination. Sunday. Imperial-Royal Gallery of the Belvedere. — See Tuesday. Ambras Collection. — See Tuesday. Gallery of Paintings of the Academy of Fine Arts. — See Saturday, Every Day. The Libraries. Academy of Sciences, Universitalsplatz, 2. Imperial-Royal Arsenal, Barrier of the Belvedere. A trillc to the sergeant who attends, but Thursday should be selected, as on that day the workshops are shown. See Thursday. Museum and Botanical Garden, Rcnnweg, 14.— Address the Director. 82 THE SIGHTS OF VIENNA. Imperial-Royal School of Horsemanship, Ungargasse, 6i. — Address the Commandant. Gardens, — Augarten-Leopoldstadt, Upper Augartenstrasse, i. Belvedere, Rennweg, 6. Prince Liechtenstein, Alserbachgasse, 14 ; and Fursten- gasse, I. Prince Schwarzenberg, Rennweg, 2. The University, Rennweg, 14. Stadtpark. — Open all day. Gardens of the Court, Hofburg. — Address the Director of the Imperial Gardens. Imperial-Royal Museum of Arts and Industry. Imperial Vaults.— Convent of the Capuchins, Neumarkt. City Arsenal, Am Hof, 10.— From 9 till 12 and 3 till 6. Pathological Museum of the Josephinum Wahringergasse. — 11 to i. Ladies not admitted. Prince Liechtenstein's Gallery of Pictures, Alserbachstrasse, 14.— Address the Custodian. Fee, one person, 5okr. ; a party, i fl. to i>^ fl. or gulden. From 8 till 6. Count Czernin's Gallery, Josefstadt, Paradeplatz, 9. — From 10 till 2. Address the Concierge. Gallery of Histrionic Portraits, Hofburg. Hall of the Gemeinderath (Municipal Council), Wipplingerstrasse, 8. Hofburg. — Apartments of the Imperial Family during the absence of the Court. Address the Commandant, as for the Schatzkammer. Permanent Exhibition of the Society of Fine Arts, Tuchlauben, 8. — Entrance, 30 kr. Collection of the Society of Agriculture, Herrngasse, 13. — Address the Secretary. Palace of the Diet of Lower Austria, Herrngasse, 13. Central Institute of Meteorology, Favoritenstrasse, 13. — Address the Director. Astronomical Cabinet, Hofburg. — Address the Custodian. Imperial Institute of Medicine, Erdbergerstrasse, 10. — Address the Director. Gallery of Harness, in the Court Stables, facing the Burgthor. — Address the Master of the Horse, Hofburg, Amalienhof. Exhibition of Paintings at the Kunstlerhaus, Lothringerstrasse. — From 9 till s. With many other exhibitions to be seen on reference to any of the daily papers. It is generally believed that the rules of admission to all the Imperial collections will be considerably relaxed during the period of the Exhibition. Still, as only a limited number to the most interesting can be admitted daily, the demands will be numerous. Touiists whose stay is brief are advised to make early application. STATUE OF I'RIXCE KL'GENF. OF SAVOY THE IMPERIAL FAMILY. 85 As the names if not the persons of the Imperial Family will be constantly before the tourist during his stay in Vienna, their names and brief history are given below : — The Emperor.— Kaiser Franz-Josef I., born the i8th August, 1830 ; ascended the throne the 2nd December, 1848 ; and married the 24th April, 1854. The Empress. — Kaiserin Elisabeth, born the 24th December, 1837, daughter of Duke Maximilian Joseph of Bavaria, of the Palatinate Line. Children : — The Archduchess Gisela, born i^th July, 1856 ; married 20tli April, 1873, to Prince Leopold of Bavaria, son of Prince Luitpold, and first cousin to the King of Bavaria. The Archduke Rodolph, Crown Prince, born 21st August, 1858. The Archduchess Valerie, born 22nd April, 1868. Brothers of the Kaiser : — The Archduke Ferdinand-Maximilian, born 6th July, 1832, Emperor of Mexico ; married the Princess Charlotte, sister to the King of the Belgians (born 7th June, 1840; murdered at Queretaro 19th June, 1867). The Archduke Charles-Louis-Josef, born 30th July, 1833 ; married -the Princess Maria- Annunziata, daughter of the King of the Two Sicilies (born 24th March, 1843). Children. — Franz-Ferdinand, born i8th December, 1863. Otho, born 21st April, 1865. Ferdinand-Charles, born 27th December, 1868. Marguerite Sophie, born I3tli May, 1870. The Archduke Louis-Josef-Antoine-Victor, born 15th May, 1842. Father and Mother of the Emperor. — The Archduke Franz, born 7th December, 1802, and the Archduchess Sophie, born 27th January, 1805, daughter of the late Maximilian Josef, King of Bavaria, died 28th May, 1872. The other members of the Imperial Family are : — The Emperor Ferdinand I., born 19th April, 1793, uncle to the present Emperor, abdicated 2nd Decembei', 1848. Resides at Prague. The Empress Marie- Anne-Caroline, born 19th September, 1803, daughter of the late Victor-Emanuel, King of Sardinia, married to Ferdinand I., 27th February, 1831. . The Empress Caroline- Auguste, born 8th February, 1792, daughter of the late Maximilian-Josef, King of Bavaria, 4th wife of the late Franz I, (grandfather of present Emperor). Aunt and grand- mother by marriage to the Emperor : — The Archduchess Marie, born ist March, 1798 ; aunt to the Emperor; married to Leopold, Prince of the Two Sicilies ; widowed since 1851. 86 ' CHURCHES OF VIENNA. Descendants of the Brothers of the Emperor Franz I. : — Children of Archduke Charles : — The Archduke Albrecht — daughter Marie Therese — married to the Duke Philippe of Wurtemberg. The Archduke Charles Ferdinand ; married the Archduchess Elisabethj daughter of the late Archduke Josef Children — 3 Princes and i Princess. The Archduke William. The Archduchess Marie- Caroline, married to the Archduke Rainer. Children of Archduke Josef : — The Archduke Josef, married to the Princess Clotilde of Saxe- Coburg-Gotha. The Archduchess Elizabeth, married the Archduke Charles-Ferdinand. The Archduchess Marie, married to Leopold II., King of the Belgians. Children of the Archduke Rainer :— The Archduke Leopold. The Archduke Ernest. The Archduke Sigismond. The Archduke Rainer, married to the Archduchess Marie- Caroline. Head of the Imperial-Royal Commission of the Welt Austcllung. The Archduke Henry. CHURCHES. Principal amongst " Gotteshausen," God's Houses, to give the pretty Ger- man word, is the " Dom zu St. Stefan," or Stefan skirche, as it is generally called. Built at different periods, it offers a bizarreness of effect and quaint picturesqueness that could never have resulted from one settled plan. Thus the principal portal, the Riesenthor (Gate of Giants), with the two small tower? flanking it, of octagonal shape, and known as the Heidenthurme (Heathen's Towers), are the remains of the original church built by Octavius Falckner, of Cracow, and founded by Henri Jasomirgott, of Babemberg, in 1 144. They partake of the Byzantine style : the rude carvings of men and animals on the Heidenthurme being very curious. On the south side, from the facade ter- minating with the great tower we can form an idea of what the result would have been had the plan of Rodolph III. and his architect, Master Wenzlaof Klosterneuberg, been fully carried out, but in this respect it shares the common lot of Gothic churches, being however, more fortunate than most in its fulfilment. The glorious South tower, built from hisdesigns,athisdeathin 1404, was only advanced two tiers, though begun in 1359, and its continuation is due to Hans Prachaticz, and completion to Master Duclesbaum, 74 years after its foundation. The appearance of the tower, with its turrets and spiracles tapering off gradually to an enormous height, and then springing vip in an elaborately floriated spire to the gilt cross crowning the whole, is charming. The height is not far from 450 feet. Several times restored, in 1839 repairs were made, only finished in 1842, and iron was employed, but the results were CHURCHES OF VIENNA. 87 not satisfactory, and in i860, the spire was again pulled down as far as the clock, and reconstructed under the care of the architect of the church, Leo- pold Ernst, who had previously rcstoi'ed the interior and exterior of the choir. However, he died before his work was accomplished, in 1862, and a well- known Viennese architect, Herr Schmidt, completed the work in 1864, aii4 the thorough restoration of the North tower is nearly an accomplished fact. The tower, entered from the house, No. 873, Stefans Platz, is no longer practicable to the top as when the spire was constructed of iron, allowing ladders up to the cross, the present ascent, for some distance, being by irons clamped in the stone on the exterior, a process of ascent, as may be easily guessed, rather dangerous, and consequently forbidden, though few, unless members of the Alpine Club, or Steeple Jack, would care, we should imagine, for the experiment. Indeed, to climbers of even more than moderate ambi- tion, the staircase, with its 533 steps, will amply satisfy their desires, whilst the view, unequalled for grandeur and beauty, will ever remain memorable to the most blase traveller. All around the spectator is a sea of houses, spires, and domes, the Ring, with its many gardens, beyond the suburbs of Dobling, Hietzing, and Dornbach, and the plain rising to the Kalenberg and Leopold- berg, on the South, the Wiener Wald, the Spinnerin, and Kreutz, and the heights of Simmering to the North, the plain of the Danube to the East, the Prater and Weltausstellung, with the great Rotunda, and the Imperial Crown glistening in the sun, the whole fading away on the South in the summits of the Styrian Alps, while the entire picture is intersected by silver threads, the Wien and Danube Canal merging into the broad stream of " die Blaue Donau," " the blue Danube." The Fire Watch, with an admirable system of telegraphy, is established about halfway high, and from this standpoint, armed with a telescope parted in divisions by hair-lines, they are enabled at once to give the quarter and street, and almost direct to the threatened house. This " Feuerwache," estab- lished everywhere in Germany, and utilizing their mediaeval glories, might be well adopted at home, where the only use made of our high tower of Par- liament is to establish a lantern to warn "Members" that the House is not sitting, and that the post-prandial bottle of Lafitte need not be rudely hurried. Higher up is the stone bench upon which the brave Count Stahremberg held many a weary tryst, as he looked over to Wahring and Dornbach, and saw the myriad tents of the Turkish horde, under Kara Mustapha, rewarded at length by the sight of the Christian standard on the heights of the Kalenberg, and the spectacle of the armies of Charles of Lorraine and John Sobieski, pouring down on the Turks, the defeat of whom he had the pleasure of sharing in. Now the hour is struck from the big bell, weighing 357>^ cwt. cast from 180 cannons taken from the Turks at that decisive triumph of Christianity. Descending, and passing round the outside, many rare old carvings and tombs are present, that of jovial Otho Neidhart (Lustigen Rathes), of Conrad Attes, the Separation of Jesus from the Virgin, and His Entombment; and SS CIRKC/fES OF V/EyXA. the pulpit from which St. John Capistran preached a crusade against the Moslems in 1451. Within, in the Kreuz Capelle (Chapel of the Cross\ is the tomb of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the vault which Rodolph of Ilapsburg founded,.and in which the race slept their last till the time of Ferdinand II., when a strange subdivision was made, their entrails in copper vases remaining here, their hearts in the Loretto Chapel of the Augiistines, and their bodies in the Capu- chin Church in the Neumarkt. On the right of the nave is the Choir of the Passion, with the superb tomb in red marble, decorated with 240 tigiires and 37 coats-of-arms, — the tomb of the Emperor Frederic IV., finished in 1513, by Nicholas Lerche, of Strasbourg. The altar contains an altar-piece by Toby Boill, the Stoning of St. Stephen, and a miraculous picture of the Virgin Mary, by Potsch, the high altar in the Renaissance style, and hardly in accord with the remainder of the building, having been erected by Hans Boch, from 1639 to 1647, during which period the exquisitely carved stalls were placed in their positions. The pulpit, in stone, dating from 1430, amongst many busts of bishops, contains that of the architect, Hans Puchs- baum, or Anton Pilgram, the last original architect of the cathedral, and perfector of the great tower. Other tombs are those of Cardinals Knusel, KoUowitzer, and Trantson, and near the entrance to the sacristy, on the left of the high altar, the tombs of Albrecht III. (1395) and his wife Elisabeth. Of the vaults with their regiments of dead, marshalled in the vaults, we will not speak, and the copper urns containing the viler portions of Imperial tlesh cannot possess much interest to any one, but we advise all to note the Black Eagle keeping guard on the west over thereof, and the quaint junction of the nave and choir. Above,let those who wish to recall the charmingwater-colours of David Roberts and Samuel Read enter the church in the twilight, and, standing under the org-an g-;^llery, whilst the body of the church is half in shadow, note the distant lights on the high-altar, and hear the voices of the choristers re-echoed from the organ overhead ; then will enter into their minds the full glory and beauty of the Minster of St. Stephen, its poetry and splendour. Afterwards, if they wish to disillusionize themselves with an inspec- tion of the monuments, — well, they will not have been the fiKst, and doubtless will not be the last. Jesuits' Church, St. Anne. In 1320 this was a church for pilgrims. In 1 41 5 a church was built, and in 15S2 the Jesuits established themselves on the spot. Here are also a convent and schools of the order. In the church the principal relic shown is a hand of St. Anne. Answering to the Church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois at Paris is the Church of the Augustines, near the Josefsplatz, founded in 1330 by Frederic the Handsome in fulfilment of a \ow made during his captivity in the castle of Trauswitz, • In the Chapel of Loretto, founded by Eleanor of Mantua, wife of Ferdinand II., all the hearts of the Imperial fimily are preserved in silver urns, and in THE CHURCHES OF VIENNA. 91 the Todten Capelle are the tombs of the Emperor Leopold II. by Zanncr, of the Austrian Field-Marshal Daun, and of Von Swieten, the illustrious physician to whom Austria is indebted for her present system of education. Maria Theresa, who held both in honour, erected these monuments to their memory, but the work which will attract the stranger, and which no one should leave Vienna without viewing, is the famous chef d'a'j(V7'e of Canova, the monument to the Arch-duchess Christiana, wife of Duke Albrecht of Saxc-Teschcn. It consists of a pyramid of grey marble, in the centre the opening of a funeral vault, towards which two processions are tending, one led by Virtue bearing the ashes of the Archduchess, accompanied by the children carrying torches to illumine the inner gloom. Behind Benevo- lence ascends the steps, supporting the tottering steps of an old man, whose grief is shared by a little girl. On the other side a lion and guardian angel keep guard, mourning the loss they have sustained, whilst faithful to the motto, " No cross, no crown," Happiness bears her medallion aloft as an angel presents the palm branch of triumph. All the figin-es are full-length statues, with the exception of the two last, which are in bold relief, and the entire composition reflects all the classic beauty for which Canova was renowned, without the effeminacy which marred the effects of many of his works. The " Te Deum " for his signal victory was here chanted in presence of John Sobieski, and attached to the picture of the Virgin will be noticed a ring ; that ring, found on the body of Gustavus Adolphus after the battle of Lutzen, was presented to the church in memory of the event. The lovers of sacred music have a rai'e treat in store for them at the Chapel of the Hofsburg, the Kammer Kapelle, every Sunday and holiday at eleven. The Imperial family always attend when in Vienna, and the members of the Imperial- Royal choir execute the choicest gems of Mozart, Gounod, Rossini, and the masters of the art before the most distinguished congregation probably in the world. The present church was restored by Maria Theresa, and founded by Ferdinand IV. in 1449 on the ruins of that first constructed by Rudolph of Hapsburg. The Church of the University, in the Place of the same name, founded by Ottokar of Bohemia, was formerly known as that of Maria-Schnee, and at present is principally interesting for its Gothic portal, with its niched figures and relievo of the Crucifixion. Within, vandalism has done its worst, and the monuments, notably one of the fourteenth century of the Duchess Blanche, which were formerly its glory, have disappeared in the process of improvement. A monument is erected to Metastasio, for the possible reason that he is buried in the vaults of St. Michael's Church, in the immediate neighbourhood. The Church of Maria-Stiegen, near the Wipplinger Strasse, originally built at the end of the fourteenth century, has been restored with care, and merits attention from the peculiarity of its tower ; whilst that of St. Michael, near the Hofburg, though originally built in the thirtcc^ith century, F 2 92 THE CHURCHES OF VIENNA, has been so embellished in successive alterations as to vie with our western towers of Westminster Abbey or choicest examples of Strawberry Hill Gothic. Indeed, its later architects might well be styled Gothic, though not in the sense it is usually applied. Carrying one back to the days when the Tenth Legion occupied Vindobona, or when Christianity was introducedby St. Severin, is the Church of St. Rupert in the Keinmarkt ; built in the eighth and already venerable in the fifteenth century, it, like many other buildings, has suffered from successive if not successful restorations, its present oldest por- tion being a baptistery built in 1500. And if the last-mentioned church recalls the days of the Romans, the present brings to one's memories the founders of the military nation of our times in that of the Teutonic knights or Deutsch Ritters in the Linger Strasse. Plain without, it is chiefly notable within for some well-preserved monuments in red marble, and for the escutcheons and banners of the knights that serve to decorate the walls. But after St. Stephen's perhaps most interest attaches, of the many in Vienna, to the Church of the Capuchins in the Neumarkt. Built by the Emperor Ferdinand II. for the last resting place of his race, it holds all that is mortal of the mighty Hapsburgs for two centuries and [a half; and strangers entering the Imperial vault (a per- mission granted every day) will recall the bitter truth — Le pauvre dans sa cabane ou le chaume le couvre, Est siijet a ses lois, Et la garde qui vielle aux ban-ieres du Louvre, N'en defends pas nos rois. For whether the sarcophagi be of silver or of bronze, the lives of many . of their occupants were exemplars of the week-day sermon of William Makepeace Thackeray, " Vanitas vanitatum " (" All is vanity, saith the Preacher "), and the coffins of Maria Theresa and Franz I., victims of invasion ; of the once King of Rome, the Due de Reichstadt ; and the latest comer, transferred from the ditch of Oueretaro to rest amongst his own, point the moral that Sceptre and crown Must tumble down, And in the dust be equal made With the poor crooked scytfie and spade. The churches of the Dominicans and Franciscans in the Places of the same names have suffered so much from fires, sieges, and architects,*'as to call for little notice, some interest attaching to the latter as being the scene of the Imperial Printing Office. Rich with marbles, gilding, and frescoes, is the Church of the University, now in possession of the Jesuits, who, after a lapse of many years, have been restored to the temple built for them by Ferdinand II. For splendour of internal decoration this may be styled the Madeleine of Vienna, and though like it the question of taste may remain an open one, it will amply repay a visit. Another church of the order is that of the Nine Choirs of Angels, in the Am Hof. THE CHURCHES OF VIENNA. 93 The Church of St. Peter, in the Place of the same name, and situated between Stefansplatz and the Graben, though built after its more famous namesake at Rome, will perhaps be better remembered as the starting-point for many of the omnibuses to the suburbs than for any architectural associations. But at least historic halo clings to that of Our Lady of the Scotch, " Die Kirche zu den Schotten," for, " twice consumed and twice rebuilded," it still preserves the monument of its founder, Duke Henry Jasomirgott, whose septcentenary was celebrated within its walls in 1855, and that of brave Count Rudiger of Stahremberg ; whilst its name is further preserved in the Schotten Ring and Schotten Gasse. En route to the " Post Amt," or General Post Office, the tourist will pass an Oriental-looking structure, with doors of open iron-work, Moresque arches, and gold mosaics, at first sight undoubtedly a church, and one whose wor- shippers are not sparing of their contributions, for gold is everywhere, on capital, on pediment, on arch, on window, and lattice work, where would appear to be the name of the patron saints in gilt letters, the names twice repeated, but a glance at the opposite side of the main portal shows two other sets of names, and makes it apparent that the " Non-united Greeks," for it is their Temple, have contrived — in this Byzantine edifice — not only to give a more noble frontage by carrying out their designs for purposes not strictly cleric, but have also managed to make the process a remunerative one. Entering a crypt-like hall, lined with imitation marble smooth as Indian chunam, and polished like a mirror, you pass into the Church with rood screen and altars superb in their almost barbaric display, and those desiring to attend the Greek services may have an opportunity every Sunday from nine to midday, there or at the neighbouring church on the Place of the Dominicans (St. Barbe) ; this, the property of the "United Greeks," or Russian rite, though by no means so rich externally as the preceding, in the interior can boast much splendour ; and the Chapel of St. George's in the Hafnersteig, for the subjects of the Sultan, as this is for the lieges of the Czar, and that of the Fleischmarkt for those of the Kaiser, \vill amply, especially on Sunday morning, repay visits. These, with the Church of the Lutherans (Confession of Augsburg), built in the cloisters of the Church of St. Dorothea, in the Dorotheer Gasse, No. 18, on the left of the Graben from the Ausplatz and running down to the Augustiner Gasse, and its immediate neighbour, at No. 16, following the Helvetic, or Calvinistic Confession, together with the Chapel of the English Embassy in the Scheun-Renstrasse, No. 12 ; that of the Rus- sian Embassy, at No. 30, WoUzeile, and the Jewish synagogue, at No. 4, Steitenstattengasse, built by Kornhausel, in 1825, but long since eclipsed by inore newly-built Israelite structures, form the principal places of worship in the Stadt, the others being found beyond the Rings. Considering it better to give all places within the Rings in one continuous description, in place of enlarging on objects at a distance, entailing on the tourist loss of time, which is loss of money, in Vienna, as one must eat 94 ■ . THE KAISERS PALACE. " il faut manger," pronounced as if the adjunct of a stable, as one of Charles Dickens's characters once remarked, the various " show places," which are many, are taken in order, beginning with the Palace of the Kaiser, the Hofburg, not only as being the Imperial residence, but also as being the most interesting mass of collections in Vienna. The most ancient portion of the Burg, the Schweitzer Hof, and entered from the Michelsplatz, dates from the year 1210, and was built by Leopold I., surnamed the Glorious, of the Babemberg race, and restored by Rodolf II. and Leopold I. of the House of Hapsburg. This testament, as it were, of the Austrian rulers, has ever been carefully preserved by the reigning families ; the ancient moat still existing, the historic entry of the Swiss Court being fully preserved, whilst two superb staircases owe their construction to the taste of Maria Theresa. Like our St. James's Palace, the exterior of the Burg, as it is familiarly called, can hardly be said to be impressive, and though it has the advantage over our Royal Palace of extent, its size giving a certain grandeur, it owes its main interest to its internal splendour, the Royal apartments and collec- tions. In the Schweizerhof are the Kammer-Kapelle, already spoken of, the Cabinet of the Emperor, his private Library, the Cabinet of Astronomy, and the Schatzkammer. The south side, built by Leopold I., contains the apartments in actual use by the Imperial Family during their residence in Vienna, only, as is usual in all Royal or Imperial residences, shown during the absence of their Majesties. Here are also the " Salles " for ordinary receptions, and the superb "Hall of Ceremonies," built in 1805 by the Emperor Francis I. In this " Rittersaal," all the Court ambassadors' fetes of evei-y description, and the Court balls, are held. In the north portion of the Castle, the Chancery, " Reichskanzlei," containing the archives of the Court and Empire, and the apartments for Imperial guests are situated. The celebrated staircase in this wing, known as the Batthyany, was built by Fischer, of Ulach, in 1761. The chief wings of the Castle form a long court, called the " Burgplatz," in which is the monument of Francis I., " Kaiser Franz," the father of his people, composed by the sculptor Marchesi, and inaugurated in 1846. The Emperor is represented of colossal stature, upright, with extended hands. At the four angles of the pedestal are placed allegorical figures of Faith, Justice, Peace, and Strength, and the inscription, " Amorem meum populis meis," was taken from the will of the Emperor. On the right and left are the two smaller courts, known as that of the Swiss and of Amalie. Between the Castle of Leopold and the Schweizerhof is the staircase known as the Adlerstiege, built by Charles VI. in 1730, and to him and the talents of his architect, Fischer, whose name seems to occur more frequently than any other at Vienna, much of the Burg owes its existence. The neighbouring buildings form two places, the Jeu de Paume, or Racket Court, formed by a wing of the Palace, and that of the Racket Court as we should call it, itself, and bounded by the Court of Amalie and that of the Swiss, the Josefsplatz, containing the Imperial Library, also the work of CHARACTER SKETCHES— A FRUIT STALL THE SCIIATZKAMMEK. 97 Fischer. Within, the decorations and bronze statues of the Hapsburgs and the literary contents ; a brief glance, naturally, will well consume an after- noon. The " Augustinerganz," uniting the Schweizerhof to the Church of the Augustines and the Palace of Coins and Antiques, and that of Mineralogy ; whilst the " Laternenganz " passes subterraneously to the Kaisergarten, belonging with the Volksgarten to the Hof burg. First in interest amongst the Austrian collections is the " Schatzkammer," in the Schweitzerhof, by a recent order of the Emperor open during the Exhibition on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays from lo to I. Here incidentally it may be said that His Imperial and Royal Majesty, considering all Vienna has to show as the contribution of the Duchy of Austria, the first title of his race, to the Welt Ausstcllung, has given directions that every facility shall be given to strangers to view all the collections under the control of the Imperial officers, whilst the private galleries acting in like spirit offer the utmost facilities to all strangers- However, as the number of visitors will be many, due precautions must be taken. And for many exhi- bitions, not on any account to be missed, such as that now noted, requests in writing must be made on the previous day ; for the Schatzkammer, from lo till twelve at the office, "Bureau dcr K. K. Schatzkammer, Hof burg, Schweizerhof, Kleine Redoutenstiege, im Halbstocke." All who have visited Aix-la-Chapelle will remember the slab of marble beneath the dome of the Cathedral bearing the word " Carolo Magno," over which hangs a massive bronze chandelier, the gift of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. The slab now stands like the Letters of Junius, " Nominis umbra," for at the opening of the tomb in 997 by the Emperor Otho, the body of the great ruler M'as discovered, not in a coffin, but seated on a throne as in life, clad in his Imperial robes, with a sceptre in hand, his good sword Joycuse by his side, the pilgrim's pouch borne in life affixed to his girdle, the crown on the poor royal skull, and the Imperial mantle pendant from the Imperial skeleton. All these relics of him who once swayed the realm of Europe, and to whom Austria was a mere suburb of his dominions, with the exception of his throne in the Hoch Munster of Aix-la-Chapelle Dom, are to be seen in the Schatz- kammer. These, which were removed from Aix-la-Chapelle, and long retained at Nuremberg, consist of his crown, set with uncut stones, and bearing the in- scription " Conradus Dei gratia Romanorum Imperator," the orb, sceptre, the sword Joycuse, the dalmatic, his shoes and gloves arc here exposed. Beside these the relics used at the coronation of the Roman Emperor, of whom the Kaiser is the representative, the head of the lance with which the soldier pierced Our Saviour, nails of the Holy Cross, a tooth of John the Baptist, and a piece of the garment of the disciple Jesus most loved, John the Evangelist, a piece of the tablecloth used at the Last Supper, and many more relics which, if the tourist do not discover them for himself, will be accurately pointed out to him by the curator. 98 REGALIA AND ORDERS. The Austrian Regalia comprises the Imperial crown, rich with uncut stones the orb and sceptre of Rudolph II., and used by him and subsequent Emperors, when after the election as Emperor of Germany, they made their entry into the chief Free Town of their dominions, Frankfort ; the crowns used by the Emperor Ferdinand I. and the Empress at their corona- tion in Prague in 1837, and not now needed in their present retirement in that city, the Crown of the Emperor having been made after the model of that of Rudolf II., and near these the sham crown, sham sceptre, and gew- gaw robes used by Napoleon I. at Milan, when he uttered the now historic words, " Dieu me 1' a donn^ — gare a qui la touche." The Iron Crown of Lombardy has been restored to Victor Emanuel, in right of his title of King of Italy. The cradle of the King of Rome — at least, one of them — another may be seen at Madame Tussaud's, and that the most remarkable, as having been presented by the City of Paris. Here, too, are the swords of Charles V., Maximilian I., Francis I. of France, and John Hunyady, the diamond lost by the father-in-law of Maximilian, Charles le Temeraire, at the battle of Gran- son, where he lost something yet more precious — his life, a superb emerald, a crucifix carved by Benvenuto Cellini, the sabre of Tamerlane, the collars, chains, and pendants of the various Austrian orders worn by the Emperor, which may be here enumerated : — 1st. The Order of the Golden Fleece, shared with Spain, and one of the i&w cosas de Espana not abolished by Senor Castelar, founded in 1430 by Philippe the Good, Duke of Burgundy. 2nd. The Order of Maria Theresa, founded by the great Empress in 1751, only accoi-ded for historic deeds, and answering to our Victoria Cross. 3rd. The Hungarian Order of St. Stephen, also founded by her in 1764. 4th. The Imperial Order of Leopold, founded by the Emperor Franz I., in 1808. 5th. That of the Iron Crown, also founded by him in 1816 ; and 6th, and lastty, the Order of Franz-Josef, founded by the present Kaiser in 1849. These, with the Order of the Cross, for Ladies, founded by the Empress Eleanor in 1668, make up the sum total of Austrian knighthoods — all honourable, and some highest amongst the world's baubles. The horoscope of Wallenstein, which, however, did not predict his death, the robes worn at the foundation of the Order of the Golden Fleece by the assist- ing priests, and given by its founder, Philippe the Good, to whom also belongs a quaint cup in serpentine. The vessels used at the baptism of the Imperial family, a quaint and priceless collection of gold plate. Watches, called from their shape Nurnberg eggs. A strangely constructed clock, given by the Landgrave of Hesse to Maria Theresa ; costumes of the fifte'enth century, and a collection of objects, to quote an auctioneer's catalogue, " too numerous to mention," make up the marvellous display of art-history in the Schatzkammer of Vienna. The Imperial and Royal Cabinet of Medals and Antiques (K. K. Munz-und Antiken-Cabinet), like the Schatzkammer, is also open on Mondays, Tues- days, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from nine to two. It is situated in another portion of the Hofburg, on the first story, in the Augustinerganz, CREEK AND ROMAN VASES. 99 or corridor of the Augustines, in turning from the Josefs Platz, and taking the staircase in the corner to the right. In the Entrance Chamber of No. 2, in order, is a rare collection of antique and Cinque Cento bronzes, numbering some 3,000 pieces, the antiques being arranged in separate divisions from those of the Cinque Cento. A vase with four feet, a Hector, and helmets found in Styria. In places around are arranged statuettes of household gods, the I.ares and Penates, and a marvellous display of antique lamps of quaint but frequently exquisite designs. The bronzes of the fifteenth century and some curious carvings, remarkable as specimens of Byzantine Christian art, and a collection of bronze medals, of counterfeit money, and a number of Eastern, Chinese, and Japanese coins ; the latter, contained in drawers, are worthy the attention of the connoisseur. The Greek and Roman vases are in Room i, about half having formerly been in the possession of Count Lamberg, and sold in 181 5. Here, on a table may be seen the famous " Senatus Consultum de Bacchanalibus," date 186 years B.C., and on another Keltic remains found at Halbstadt. Room No. 3 contains medals and coins, both antic^ueand modern, whilst No. 4 is devoted to those of Greek and Rome. But the 5th room holds the gem of the dis- play, a salt-cellar by Benvenuto Cellini, the sword and hunting horn of Charles v., and an enormous number of cameos, ancient and modern, intaglios, and vases in precious stones. The most celebrated is the Apotheosis of Augustus, the first as regards beauty of workmanship in the world, and the third as regards size (the historic interest is also great, as the heads are portraits of the Emperor and his family), found in Jerusalem in the times of the Cru- sades ; it was purchased by the Emperor Rudolf II. for 12,000 ducats. A cup of oriental agate, 28>^ inches in diameter, a portion of the dowry of Mary of Burgundy, daughter of Charles le Temeraire, and wife to Maximilian I. ; a necklace of 49 cameos, representing the princes of Habsburg from Rudolf 1. to Ferdinand III., and set with 488 rubies ; and a number of antique speci- mens of the goldsmith's work, found in Hungary and Transylvania, are only some out of the many objects to be seen in this unique collection. This and the Schatzkammer slaould form a portion of one morning's work or pleasure, whichever the tourist may choose to term it, with the Imperial and Royal Zoological and Mineralogical collections. These, with entrance also in the Augustinerganz, are open daily (with the exception of Sundays and fete days) from 9 to 2. The Zoological Museum, K. K. Zoologische Cabinet, in the Josefs Platz, founded in 1795, offers to those whose taste lies in a taxidermistical direction a rare treat in twenty-four rooms of stuffed specimens from mammals to star fish and zoophytes. The Mineralogical Museum (K. K. Mineralogische Cabinet), founded in 1848 by Franz I., by the purchase in 1748 of the Florentine collection of Baillou, and since constantly enriched by purchase and gifts, is one of the most renowned in the w^orld, both for extent and variety of its specimens. The collection is contained in eight sub-divisions, from mineralogy to meteorites. too LIBRARIES. Some fossil wood from Transylvania ; the largest known opal from the mines of Czernowitz, weighing seventeen ounces ; chrysolites from Greenland ; enormous rock crystals, Labrador spar, and fine specimens of the rarest minerals divide attention with the meteorites or aerolites, one of which, seventy-one pounds in weight, fell in 175 1 near Agram, its descent having been witnessed, and some of the shower at Stannen in Moi-avia in 1808, seen by hundreds of people on their road to church. The Imperial Library, " Hofbibnotek," also entered from the Josefs Platz, the architecture of which has been already described, was founded by Maxi- milian L at Nurnberg, and opened to readers by Maximilian II. But to Charles VI., who directed the construction of the building, is really due its success as a public institution. The list of librarians is a lengthy one, including many celebrated names, Conrad Celtes, the Laureate, whose collection has been absorbed in the contents ; Hugo Blotius, Avho first took the title of Imperial Librarian ; the two von Swieten, one the celebrated physician of Maria Theresa, whose monument has been already noted, with many others of distinction. Amongst the most interesting collections are those of Celtes, Johann Faber, Archbishop of Vienna, Count Albrecht Fugger, of the family of the Merchant Princes of Augsburg, of Tycho Brahe, the astronomer, of Kepler, of the Ambras collection, and that (rich in Spanish literature) of Prince Eugene, and the precious incunabula, so called from having been pro- duced in the cradle or infancy of printing, of the Due de la Valliere. Amongst the curiosities are Mexican hieroglyphics presented by Cortes to Charles V., and manuscripts on papyrus, the map of roads of the Roman Empire in the fourth century, called the Tabula Pentingerana, from the citizen of Augsburg, who sold it to Prince Eugene, the MS. of the Fifth Book of Livy, from which that portion of history has been printed, brought from Scotland by St. Guilbert, the psalter of St. Hildegarde, wife of Charlemagne, the Prayer Book of Matthias Corvinus from Baden, a Koran of 545, a Book of Hours, formerly belonging to Charles V., and plainly showing the marks of the Imperial spectacles, a Greek Testament of the thirteenth century, once the property of Erasmus Desiderius, testified by his own hand ; Tasso's MS. of the Gerusalemme Liberata ; a German Bible, adorned with minia- tures, written for the Emperor Wenceslaus ; the psalter of Faust, printed at INIayence in 1457 ; some parchments printed at Rome by Pannertz in 1468-g ; the Biblica Latina of Schoffen, printed at Mayence in 1462. These, with rare illuminations, and a superb collection of engravings, including nine volumes of Bartolozzi, one each of Albrecht Durer and John of Leyden, and two volumes of Rembrandt, form a gathering not to be easily disposed of at a cursory glance ; as, howevei", the reading room, like that of our British Museum, but without any preliminary ceremonies, is open every day from nine to four, those who propose remaining any time will have ample oppor- tunities for inspection. The Private Library of the^Emperor, also in the Hofburg, contains, beside some 60,000 volumes and 1,800 incunabula^ a number of rare manuscripts CHARACTER SKETCHES — WANDERING MUSICIANS THE IMPERIAL THEATER. 103 and books, notaljly a Tcrsian poem, " Rcbabname," or the book of Cithera, a rare description in thirty-four works of Chinese habits and customs, and the Book of Combats Ijy Albrecht Durcr, the pen designs from his own hand. The Imperial-Royal Archives (K. K. Hof und Staats Archiv), founded by the Emperor Maximilian, a very important historical gathering, will be found in the north wing of the palace (the Reichskanzlei) previously described. The Imperial-Royal Chapel Choir is composed of two Kapelle-meisters (chapel masters), eighteen choristers, and twenty-six musicians, whose per- formances may be heard each Sunday ^xv^fete day at eleven. With this the Imperial sights in the Hof burg itself close, with the exception of a collection of portraits of Court comedians in their most famous 7'6lcs, placed in the apartments leading from the Castle (Hof) to the Imperial box in the Imperial- Royal Theatre of the Court and Castle (K. K. Hof burg-Theater). Constructed in 1760, and restored on several occasions, the last being in 1837 and 1854, it is neither remarkable for special splendour nor comfort in the arrange- ments. The actors, however, hold a similar position in Vienna to those of the Theatre Francais in Paris, the performances of tragedy, drama, and comedy being unexceptionally good. The price of places are : — Box . ... ... Reserved Stall in 1st Parterre .... Unreserved Stall in ist Parterre .... Reserved Stall in 2nd Parterre .... Unreserved Stall in 2nd Parterre .... Entrance ist Parterre ...... Entrance 2nd Parterre Reserved Stall 3rd Gallery Unreserved Stall 3rd Gallery .... Entrance Reserved Stall 4th Gallery Unreserved Stall 4th Gallery .... Entrance Like all the other Viennese theatres these prices are for seats obtained beforehand, as on any special occasion the house is bought up by speculators, and no limit is placed to the extortion. The performances throughout Vienna commence at half-past seven, or, as the Wieners put it, half before eight, and conclude from half-past nine to eleven. Notwithstanding this closes the account of the Imperial-Royal Hof burg, it is thought better to continue in this place the other Imperial collections, as whatever else the tourist may omit he should on no account omit to visit them. The collections of saddles and that of hunting weapons (K. K. Sattelkammer und Jagdkammer) are situated near the Burgthor, Hofstall- strasse. No. i ; and contain in the first a wonderful gathering of caparisons, saddles, and harnesses which have done duty at many coronations, and in the n. kr. 10 2 SO 2 5° 20 80 30 60 80 70 40 I04 AM BRAS COLLECTION. latter many ancient shooting pieces, an arquebus of Charles VI., and the hunting dress of Josef II., torn by the stag which attacked and wounded him. The building in which these are contained is the Imperial Stables (K. K. Hofstalle, Hofwagenburg), built in 1725, under Charles VI., by " our mutual friend" Fischer, of Erlach, quite an old acquaintance before one leaves Vienna, a Marquis de Carabas among architects. It was restored in 1725, having accommodation for 400 horses. Admission daily (with the ex- ception of Sundays and fete days) from one to three. Admission tickets given at the Oberstallmeister Amt (Chief Equerry's Office), Burg-Amalienhof The tourist is next requested to note the Palace of the Belvedere in the Rennweg, founded by Prince Eugene in 1693, and finished in 1724, where will be found the Ambras collection, and the cabinet of Egyptian antiquities in the Lower, and the Imperial picture gallery in the Upper Belvedere. The K. K. Ambraser-Sammlung and the K. K. Egyptische Museum are open daily from ten to four, with the exception of Sundays andyi?/\g platinum still. This machine, which looks like an overgrown tin kettle, is valued at no less than 8,000/., the reason being that platinum is one of the most expensive of metals, exceeding even the price of gold. It is used in the manufacture of sulphuric acid, and its great value is proved by its not corroding or wearing out, so that if you purchase a platinum still, you are fitted out for life, and never need go into the market again. Palladium, which this firm exhibits, is nearly twice as expensive as platinum in consequence of its only being found in one or two Brazilian gold mines, so that it must be looked upon more as a chemical curiosity than anything else. Presently we come upon a densely-packed crowd, whereof the female sex forms the larger share, and it requires no very great amount of penetration to discover that we are close upon the jewellery department, of which the most important representatives are Messrs. Hancock. This firm formed an almost isolated case of readiness on the opening day. As the sun shines down on the myriads of almost priceless gems the effect is superb. Messrs. Hancock's great case here is said to contain a value of 350,000/. First comes a coronet of emeralds and brilliants. The band has emeralds of extraordinary colour and quality, as the stones are entirely free from the flaws so commonly iS8 ykWELLMRY. found in this beautiful gem. The spikes are of good shape, and set with emeralds which it must have taken years to pick up and to match, for that is one of the most ditYicult things with emeralds, as with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires. r>etweon the spikes are large drop-shaped brilliants, and for quality of stones and artistic ctTect this coronet yields to none in the Exhibition, and, indeed, not to many in existence. This is valued at a mere bagatelle of 8,000/. Equally noteworthy and in equally good, though very dilVorcnt taste, is a necklace of brilliants and black pearls. Evor\body who knows anything of the subject mvist be aware that matches in black pearls are most difficult to obtain. Here the bouton and the drop seem as if they had been turned in a lathe from one piece of stuff. This is priced at 3,000/. To the taste of nine out of ten people, much more charming is a necklace of pink pearls and brilliants. The pendant pearl is as large as a tine Kentish fdbert, and the pearls which depend from iliamonds all around are extraordinary matches of colour, not all to the same shade, of course, but matches in the sense that each pearl mates its ccurresponding one on the other side. A 10,000/. atTair is a Court suite coronet, necklace, bracelet, and earrings of white pearls and brilliants, the lustre and colour of the pearls being singularly equal, and the settiiig the perfection of elegance. Big stones are expensive articles, as we know, and not readily attainable well matched, even to those who have mone)- ; but a 1 2,000/, necklace here is perfect in colour, and a pair of solitaire earring's which go with it, and are yet larg-er stones, are of the same pvuity and quality of water. There is nothing better in design than a Court suite of emeralds and brilliants — tiara, necklace, pendant, and earrings — the stones being very good, and the matching excellent. Luxury will reach its height when ladies carry sprays of diamonds in their hands in lieu of bouquets of flowers. Those who like that sort of thing may tind at a cost of 2,000/. here a spray of brilliants, representing corn-flower and other wild flowers, with wheatears, the whole flashing and trembling almost at the breath, and the design being in taste simply perfect. Altogether, what with supplementary bracelets, lockets, and necklaces, ranging in price from 500/, to 5/., and with Etruscan, enamelled, and wire jewellery, rivalling in style and workmanship the best of the works of old, it is no wonder ladies utter suppressed notes of admiration whenenever they draw near to this stall. One of our most perfect specimens of English silversmith's art is also on view at Messrs. Hancock's case, and, strange to say, remains imsold ; w^e allude to the Tennyson Vase. Most people are aware that it was modelled by Armstead, and illustiates " Le Mort d'Arthur," and unless it should be previously disposed of, no doubt the Mceroy of Egypt or the Shah of Persia will carry it otT in triumph. Messrs. Hancock also exhibit some particularly tine examples of stone-setting in articles of more g-eneral use, and in this particular they carry out one great object they have in view — that it is possible to bring good taste and perfect workmanship within the reach of those whose pockets will not allow them to spend more than a trifle on articles of pure luxury. Amongst the miscellaneous articles exhibited here are some h;\lf yEWELLERY. 159 THE NORTHERN RAILWAY STATION dozen bracelets made expressly for this Exhibition, which are acknowledged to be the most perfect specimens of stone-setting ever yet exhibited. Beyond the jewellery department there are some very curious models in silver of antique Greek pottery which here appear under the utilitarian, if not poetical, appellation of claret jugs. Besides these precious jewels, various cups, vases, and tazza, the designs of Owen Jones and Moriti, are also displayed, and on which, especially with reference to the latter, the exhibitors pride themselves, claiming that their rendering of the modeller's design, and the free life-like style of their execution of his ideas, has done more than anything else to make the name of Moriti's work famous. Taking it altogether, the exhibits by this firm are the most beautiful of their kind in the whole Exhibition. Messrs. Thomas, of Bond Street, have created quite a sensation with a necklace of brilliants, valued at 35,000/., the suite of earrings and a brilliant cross to correspond may be purchased by the fortunate individual who can afford 50,000/. to expend upon this parure. Mr, Thomas also displays a beautiful necklace of pearls of the truest water, the most symmetrical shape, and the most accurate graduation in size, the pearls composing which it haB taken four years to collect. Amongst his other trophies are a Very large pink i6o COLONIAL PRODUCTS. pearl, of beautiful tint and great value, and a brooch of emeralds and diamonds. One of his specialities is cheap, yet real and artistic jewellery, or rather goldsinith's work, made expressly to compete with the Austrian handi- craftsmen, on their own ground. All the gold used is of fifteen carats, and cheapness is attained by the lightness of the articles in comparison with more expensive jewellery. The designs for the most part are extremely simple, but chaste and full of elegance. A stroll through the British picture galleries shows much empty space, but a fair collection of art works ; some seventy oil and about fifty water-colour pictures represent some of our best artists. A rule was laid down by the Com- missioners of the Vienna Exhibition that this department should be specially reserved for original works painted since the year 1862. This rule has been broken by us as well as other countries. Take, for example, one of Turner's earlier pictures, " Walton Bridges," besides Frith's " Ramsgate Sands," H. O'Ncil's " Eastward Ho !" and Ward's " Last Sleep of Argyll." These alone are sufficient to prove our assertion. The pictures are so well known to most of our readers that there is no necessity to discuss them fully here. Before taking leave of the English department, we must not fail to notice a most important and practical portion of our exhibits, namely, the space devoted to the models and drawings of dwelling-places for the poorer classes ; under this head may be seen houses suitable for all nations and climates, tastefully decorated and furnished ; foremost amongst these are those iron tenements, which may almost be considered English specialities ; they cari be put up and taken down in an incredibly short space of time, and will prove invaluable to working men at home and abroad, whose occupations are of a migratory character. We will now proceed to inspect our Colonial products. Here are the Colonies of Victoria, Queensland, and South Australia, while, occupying a much smaller space, are the Crown Colonies of the Cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Ceylon, Trinidad, Batavia, Jamaica, and the West Coast of Africa, These latter are all more or less typical, though on a very small scale, and were colonial funds and colonial energy a little more plentiful, a good deal more might have been shown with advantage. Australia and New Zealand, however, with one exception, have put their shoulders to the wheel, and sent an exceedingly good representation of their respective countries. The Queens- land Court is a complete picture gallery. The whole of the walls are covered with coloured photographs, not placed haphazard, but all arranged in geo-^ logical sequence. First you have the latest formations of the pliocene era of the Murray river, and to this succeeds the alluvial districts of the river valleys, in which the sugar, maize, tobacco, and other products are cultivated. Further on we have the desolate rock districts of the desert sandstone, which affords no pasturage but the unsatisfying spinifex grass, and which in every sense is unproductive. Then come the rich pastures of the Flinders Plains and the beautiful English-looking Darling Downs, the Paradise of Queensland, where from thousands of cattle we have the fat of the land in the shape of tins of VICTORIA. i6i preserved meat. Next wc have the coals which are found not only in the true carboniferous formation, but also in the liassic of later date ; and then we see how in the Devonian or red sandstone group, the white streaks of quartz betoken the mineral riches of the country in the shape of gold, copper, tin, and lead. We are also shown all the stirring incidents of the gold fields, the shallow working, where the alluvial gold is caught and sifted, and the deep gold mining, where shafts are sunk to a considerable depth in the quartz reefs. Above, the photographs give the main features of the district as to its pro- ductive resources in pasture, agriculture, or mining, whilst below them are wall cases containing samples of those resources, with sections of the rocks and specimens of soil. Among the exhibits is a huge block of malachite, superior in depth of colour and grain to anything in Russia, also a veritable nugget weighing 104 ounces ; blocks of quartz reef, through which the gold can be seen running in fine lines, lead ore, and the still more valuable tin ore. (Queensland cottons, wools, and sugars are here as well, showing the different lines of production to which a man may put his hand ; and photographs of natives and aborigines. Victoria has sent to Vienna a remarkably full and typical collection of what the colony can do, and she has symbolised herself by the first experi- ment ever made of sending fresh fruit to Europe, for one of the exhibits once consisted of a case of most magnificent 1 ipe apples. These were sent by the Horticultural Society of Victoria, packed in cotton wool and ice and de- spatched for a three months' voyage to the World's Fair. Preserved meats of course are an important item in the show, and suggest to the mind the enormous districts of squatters' stations, covered with cattle and sheep. Not only do we see here the common forms of beef and mutton, but we have delicacies also, such as roast goose, roast ducks, preserved kangaroos, and different varieties of cooked meats. Victoria has also sent a perfect cellar of wine of all sorts and colours- Taking them altogether, these Australian wines seem to be a compound of Bordeaux and Hungarian wines, and this is not very surprising, when we find that the grapes, such as Muscat, Chasselas, Tokay, and Reisling, &c., are similar in growth and quality to European grapes, and that the distinctive flavour is the result of the Australian soil and climate, modified to a certain extent by treatment. But, however this may be, many of their wines are exceedingly good, and some have a delicacy of flavour which is remarkable. Wine fanciers in England are probably the most prejudiced race in the world, and decline to believe that a new country can ever produce anything worth drinking, but for all that the Australian vintage is a great fact, and in time is certain to have a large future before it. As it is, the vine growers have their hands full, for the consumption at home is very large. Wine is sold and drunk in Melbourne by the tumbler, and as the population increases, the wine trade increases also, so that they need not fear for trade. Here dLtc/ac siiniLs of the largest nuggets in the world — the " Precious 1 62 AFRICAN AND WkST-INDIAN COLONIES. nugget weighing 1^631 ounces and worth about 9,000/. — the "Viscount Can- terbury," weighing 1,105 ounces, and several others, not so large, but each a fortune to the lucky finder. Equally interesting are the quartzes of the various gold mines, the copper, antimony, tin, silver, zinc, and manganese ores, which show how vast are the mineral riches of these countries — riches which are far more accessible to the ordinary miner than those arising from the search for gold alone. Another source of treasure shown here is the wood, of which, of course, only small sections and samples can be exhibited, though sufficient to enable the visitor to understand what a variety there must be. Of the Eucalyptus family, or gum tree, there are no less than thirty kinds, and not only are they all used and valued for every imaginable purpose for which trees can be used in building, but in an adjoining case, we see the oils which are extracted from them. These are very powerful, and are used not only as solvents in the aits and manufactures, but are extremely efficacious in medi- cine. For instance, the oil of Eucalyptus glohihis is used in Victoria in fevers as an antiseptic, while the lozenges made from the gum are prescribed in England as an excellent remedy for sore throat. We will now pass on to the African and West Indian colonies. The Cape of Good Hope does not show very much, but what there is is characteristic. There are the feathers of the ostrich, tame and wild ; the modern incubators too are curious ; the eggs are hatched at a temperature of 45 deg. to 55 deg. (centipede). There are specimens of stones from the Diamond Fields — polished and in the rough. There are Cape Sherries and Constantia, and Boer tobacco. There is the hair of the Angora goat and stuffs of mohair ; cotton somewhat coarse in the staple, dressed hides and skins, and ox-horns cut into sti'ong combs and other articles of common use. Jamaica sends nothing but a case of cigars and cigarettes, which it is hoped will compete successfully in quality as in price with the famous Cuban brands of Cabana and Hanradery. It seems un- unfortunate this island should not have availed itself more of so excellent an opportunity of advertising its general produce, considering the chances likely to be given it by the calamities in store for Cuba. Mauritius, on the other hand, is represented by sugars and coffees, Avhich even in the eyes of the uninitiated are beyond all praise. In the perfection of refining and the regularity of the little crystal cubes, no such sugar is to be seen in the London clubs and drawing rooms. Madagascar contributes some brilliant silks. From the West Coast of Africa there come Ashantee weapons, and light Ashantee despatch bags of woven grass, which may answer their purpose admirably in a tropical African climate, although they would scarcely stand the average weather of an Euro- pean campaign ; and there is a beautiful muff of the soft gray monkey-skin striped in warm red, which is cheaply priced at 2/. los. There are woods from the Bahamas which in the grain and the capacity for receiving polish should compete with anything from Yucatan or Honduras — mahogany and satin, sabica and green ebony. The Indian pavilion is a cunning structure on columns, covered over wit carpets and rugs of bright colours. Inside the apartment are all the appli- AUSTRIAN PRODUCTS. 165 ances of Indian luxury, couches and carved furniture of Madras. One of the most interesting exhiljits of the Indian Court is the drawing-room of a nabob. The owner himself, a figure in gorgeous attire, is seated cross-legged in one corner, smoking his hubble-bubble. There are also some beautifully em- broidered stuffs, coarse pottery, of Hindoo design, landscapes and sketches of Indian scenes, together with some curious peasant jewellery from Ceylon, Austria demands special notice, her capital being at the present time the centre of attraction to all civilised nations. She is naturally desirous of showing to the best advantage all her various industries. The display of glass is in itself a trophy. You walk about for some time in a glass palace, with lustres hanging over your head, and mirrors on the walls. It is probably the richest exhibition in glass ever brought together, and will yield in excellent to none. The display shows refinement of design and delicacy of workmanship rivalled by few countries. The first gallery, on the right, is entirely devoted to the famous Bohemian glass, some engraved in most intricate designs, others with a slender mounting of gold and silver work. In the large gallery is a splendid display of jewellery, gold, and silver work. Half the first northern gallery is filled with articles de Vienne, rivals to the famous articles de Paris; the other half is occupied by meerschaum pipes and cigarette holders, most exquisitely carved and designed. One court contains nothing but perfumery, another is consecrated to fire-arms, a second to silks, the next to cloth, and its neighbour to pianos. The Belgians, too, will do well to look to their laurels as to lace manufacture, for the Bohemian lace workers, who make the style of fabric, bid fair to become formidable rivals. Point de Venise, point Duchesse, Valenciennes, point gaze, and a number of other styles are well represented, their only fault being that the execution is heavy, and the designs somewhat tasteless. Austria is essentially an agricultural country, and the exhibits from the Schwarzenburg estates, in Bohemia, are highly interesting and instructive ; the admirable Austrian taste has presided over all the arrangements and decorations of their Pavilion. In front there is a glimpse into a bit of Bohe- mian forest — a stag carrying a magnificent head is bounding across a glade of pine trees ; looking closer into the foliage you distinguisli a wild cat crouching down on a bough in the most catlike manner in the world ; all unconscious of the presence of its enemy, a hare is pricking its ears among the dense underwood. Other animals have been brought together in a group that takes you back to the German fauna in the days of Reinecke Fuchs. On the wall behind, a boar's head grins from under a capercailzie, among antlers and skins and the old weapons of the chase, and stuffed specimens of Bohe- mian ornithology. Turning to the right, you are in the Prince's forests still. You may examine the model of his steam saw-mills, as well as the work they have turned out in the shape of the sawn planks and split staves behind you. There is one of those roughly-dressed timber ways like the famous slide of Alpnach, and one of the long narrow rafts, with a steering apparatus fitted at intervals, by which the wood is floated where the rivers become navigable. i65 HUXGARIAN PRODUCTS. Leaving- the forests you get among the mines. There are the picturesque huts of the miners and models of the machinery employed, blocks of anthra- cite specimens of ore, cast iron, wrought iron, and Bessemer steel, graphite and plumbago, with boxe§ of gigantic lead pencils, &c. Passing the door you entered by, whose side posts are hung with furs and peltries, and looking, as you pass at the monster carp and pike, and other fishes of strange names and singular appearance, you find yourself on the side of the building assigned to agricultural samples. You can see, almost at glance, what are the staple crops of the country, and which of them are the most successful. The hay, for instance, is poor ; even the best meadow, fragrant as it smells, would scarcely fetch top prices in England ; but it is curious to remark the economy which uses almost everj-thing in the way of grass or leaves, either for food or for bedding. The show of cereals is splendid, and the hops, so for as size goes, are magniticent. But more interesting, perhaps, is the produce of the various manufoctories, the beet-root sugar, in particular, taking a prominent place. Then there are oils and oilcakes made at home ; the poppies are also turned to account, and the various nuts. The prince prides himself on a superb breed of the veritable merino ; you may admire their portraits above their silky lieeces, vvhile on the opposite' wall over dairy produce, which is poor compared to what we may see in Cheshire or Groningen, hang the dis- tinguished sires and dams from the Schwarzenburg Bernese herd. Even silk culture is not neglected ; there are chests of the cocoons among mulberry leaves, Avhile there is tobacco, of course, although it looks as if it were pro- bably reserved for Bohemian consumption. The whole is illustrated by maps of the different estates, by photographs and engravings, plans of small inland towns that have been created by the " water-privileges " in the inland lakes. By the side of the Schwarzenburg pavilion is situated that of Prince Lupert of SaxeCoburgGotha, arranged on the same plan, but with some trilling variation in the branches of industry. Prince Schwarzenburg shows us Bohemia ; Prince of Coburg introduces us to Hungary, where his domain is situated ; he displays the four natural riches of the country, namely — wine, grain, wood, and tobacco. The specimens of wood are most tastefully arranged in the shape of books, the bark forming the covers ; there are large blocks of silver and copper minerals, a column of salt, and lustres in salt crystals. In the GoA'ernment pavilion of agriculture is shown an historical array of ploughs, from the rude Egyptian instrument to the most finished English model, including the fomous plough used by the Emperor Joseph, when on one occasion he took a fancy to speed " the plough" on the plains of Wichau. Hungary is not included in the Austrian portion. She shows, however, pretty much the same products, but some noticeable things are a group of figures round a cannon, representing soldiers in the costumes of different corps, and some good porcelain and China. Some of the latter, however, are styled reproductions of old Dresden, old Sevres, and old China, and are bad imitations of ancient art, which should be looked at from a distance. At the side of this exhibition, where quantity replaces quality, we find some ordi- THE RUSSIAN DEPARTMENT. 167 Tilli IMPERIAL ARSENAL nary ware, pure in form and beautifully glazed. Among the specialities of Hungary are some superb opals from the Carpathian mountains, very elegantly set. The special attraction of the Russian department is the monster cannon in the court, which took a week to remove from the waggon in which it was brought thither to place it in position. The Russian gold and silver work is for the most part very original in design, and is of the Byzantine style ; some- times it is an inferior copy of Western manufacture. As would l)e expected, the Russian trophies are furs and stuffed bears. Of the former some dark 1 68 GREECE, EG YP T A ND TURKE V. sables are of enormous value, whilst one of the latter cuts a most laughable figure ; it holds a brass plate as though in the act of begging. Taking into consideration the important position which Russia occupies in the world she does not occupy that foremost position at Vienna which was expected of her. Greece has much in a small space to interest the visitor. Some very excel- lent plaster casts at once attract the attention. Some of them are copies of friezes from the Parthenon, the most noticeable of which is the model of the principal facade of the Temple, representing the birth of Pallas. There are also some admirable specimens of marble from Grecian quarries, and woods from the forests. A sign that Greece is looking up in industrial matters is given by the exhibition of some saws and other cutting machines. The luscious wines of the Greek Islands are arranged in a pyramid at one end of the court. Egypt gives some very interesting reproductions of native habitations, such as an Ai-ab mosque, a fountain, a kiosk, and a bazaar ; there are also several curious copies of ancient tombs, with illustrations representing the outdoor life of the Egyptians in days of yore. The Viceroy has sent a col- lection from Soudan, Abyssinia, and Gilles. It is much to be regretted that the unique collection from the Bolak Museum, which created such a sensa- tion at the last Paris Exhibition, will not be displayed here. Tunis shows some very fine Roman antiquities. To the Turkish court has recently been added a plan in-relief of Constan- tinople and the Bosphorus, executed upon an exceptional scale, but, unfor- tunately, the Turks had nothing to do with its manufacture, which is the worlc of German engineers. Yet they exhibit some things for which they may claiip originality — fabrics from Smyrna, including arms, pipes, filagree work, and stuffs woven with gold and silver. In this speciality no nation can compete with the Orientals. The most perfect of the far Eastern displays is that of Japan. In any of the other Art Courts in the Exhibition ingenious illustrations of ugliness mingle with the things of beauty, and often the same exhibitor delights and shocks the taste. With the Japanese it is scarcely too much to say that all is original, beautiful, or quaint, for most of the exceptions which prove the nile are instances in the very latest years, when they have taken to imitating Europe. The severest criticism which experts make is that there is little that is very decidedly novel, because there is very little left to borrow. Conspicuous in metal work, as you enter, is the monster Dolphin in brass, with his tail swaying in the air, in the very act of plunging down among the waves. Behind him is a lacquered cabinet Avrought in ebony and ivory, inlaid with exquisitely minute plaques of gold and silver. Near him hang towels and handkerchiefs bordered with the imitation of coral branches, which is an old speciality of the country, and illustrates the elaboration of labour the Japanese bestow on their common workmanship ; the beads of white which dot the sprigs of red are obtained by t)ing up mustard seeds in the stuff with fine silk. Then each seed is covered with a drop of wax, the JAPANESE PRODUCTS. 169 whole is dipped in the scarlet dye, the threads are cut, the seeds removed, and the effect is produced. The walls are covered with extraordinarily original coloured sketches, where the ideas are conveyed by significant out- lines and a few bold touches pregnant with expression. Thus, fishes are disporting themselves in water that is represented simply by the life-like play of their fins ; flights of birds are streaming through the air, which you realise by admiring the easy movement of their pinions. In all Japanese art there is almost invariably a humorous element. Sometimes the humour is sub- dued or insinuated, often it is broadly farcical. You can appreciate the strong sense of the ludicrous in the national nature when you look in the merry faces and twinkling black eyes of the natives who begin to crowd into Vienna. Here, for instance, you have a piece several feet high, where, in a few straight lines, a cataract comes tumbling down in a cleft between a couple of rocks. A family of monkeys of all ages are disporting themselves upon the cliffs ; one venerable individual has his back arched and his short tail turned up as far as it will go, and you see nothing whatever of his features. Yet you are sure he is the life and soul of his family circle, and the expressive shrug of his shoulders, with the comical contortion of feature you can only surmise, has set all the rest on the broad grin. So in the birds ; you have the comic side of very realistic nature as turkeycocks and gamecocks go swaggering about in their seraglios, or waders raise one leg in the air or slew the head to one side with something in the eye which is very like a wink. Mr. Bains, of the Worcester Potteries, has reproduced this distinctive feature in his porcelain. More finished and not less noteworthy are the Japanese siijets de Retire — a party embarking on a lake in a shower, women and children out in a snowstorm — pieces reminding you somewhat of Teniers or Ostade Japanized, as though the Dutch traders had carried their arts with their com- merce to the East. There are small figures in costume admirably representing certain classes, but all peaceful subjects ; there are none of the military caste, none of the Samarangs, or two-sworded followers of the Daimios, whom recent events in the country have brought into unpleasant contact with our Envoys. There are cases of toys, dolls, and laden donkeys, as good as any- thing Regent Street can show, and cats and kittens that are marvels of feline expression. There are also some rare samples of enamel on the bright red copper which is altogetker peculiar to Japan. In cases in the centre stands the porcelain, among it some beautiful speci- mens of the Satsuma ware, christened after the Principality of the great Daimio who went to war with us. The characteristics of this Satsuma ware are a soft ivory glaze with minute waving lines, which the Worcester works have adapted most beautifully, and admirably realistic flowers, with subdued yet clear and warm colouring ; it is only of late years that it has been exported at all. Then there is the Kago ware, with its tints of brilliant reds ; on many of the vases wreaths of grey and black clouds drifting across the horizon. Although the colouring of all these specimens not only strikes but charms you, it is on the graceful shapes that the eye lingers the longest. I70 THE GERMAN DEPARTMENT. The more closely you examine into the details the more completely are your first pleasing- impressions confirmed. The elephant's head, with tusks and trunks, occurs ever)where in the handles ; lizards wreathe themselves up the sides among waving foliage and interlacing boughs, and dragons curl them- selves up in the covers of the ta::sas. But the most fantastic forms are never repulsive, and the fantastic is always sub-ordinated to the idealistic grace which presides over the whole — unless, indeed, when the artist goes in avowedly for the grotesque, as in one enormous platter, where a grinning demon is extingiiishing an unhappy mortal, whose rueful features are disappearing under a bronze bell chased and embossed in extraordinary bold relief. Apropos of bronze, the specimens of metal work cabinets, coftins, and incense burners for the temples, are perhaps as artisti- cally and elaborately finished as anything in the collection. The labour bestowed on the intricate reponsstv work must sometimes have been simply incalculable. Conspicuous in art of every style and material is the sacred mountain of Fusijama, that picturesque volcano so little known to foreigners save from a distance, until the other day, when Baron Hubner brought up a report of it. We may loiter among the many-hued silks and the delicate em- broidered stuffs, with their endless variety of patterns, all so marked in their local individualities, on the bamboo mattings, or on such things as the assortments of the simple tools with which the Japanese beat our skilled Avorkmcn, or the chemicals and dyes with which they obtain their extra- ordinary coloured ctlect. Lastly, we may note their preserved food in glass. It is doubtful whether any of the great preserving houses could contribute shrimps and pra\\ns and herrings maintaining so entirely shape and colour and the appearance and freshness. Of the condition of the untempting Irypang, or sea slug, we are less qualified to judge. You enter the German department by a grand triumphal arch, covered with velvet and silk, ornamented in front with the arms of Prussia and Saxony, under which are placed the most choice products of the Royal porcelain manufactories of Berlin and Meissen. Saxony excels, of course, in china and porcelain, but the collection is arranged so inartistically as quite to destroy the desired effect. The delicate and fragile Dresden china is placed on a sort of pyramid of red velvet heavily ornamented with gold ; the tawdriness of the surrounding red velvet and carpets completely destro\s the appearance of the exquisite porcelain. Putting this aside, the transparency of the china is as beautiful as ever, although, perhaps, the figures lack the piciuante delicacy which they formerly possessed. The painted china, however, is very first rate, and retains that soft refinement of colouring for which Dresden has so long been famous. Close to this china pyramid is a quantity of jewellery, together with some gold and silver w^ork. The southern cross gallery contains some fine wood carvings from the Black Forest, as well as a large show of wooden clocks ; the cuckoo clocks, of all shapes and sizes, are especially predominant. At the end of the gallery is also an important collection of chemical products. The northern portion of the transept is filled with fur- Jiiil^VJiiiERK GALLKRV HOLLA NI) AND BELGIUM. 173 niture and decorative industries, (Germany also occupies some out-ljuildings right and left of the northern entrance. In these arc textile industries, from the raw materials, such as flax, hemp, and wool, to the stuffs themselves. Alsace and Lorraine arc also represented here. Holland is chiefly remarkable for the trophy from its East Indian possesion — a sort of epitome of the productions of the Dutch colonies, with specimens of coffee, tea, tobacco, spice, and incense, as well as specimens of the fauna. The whole thing seems to breathe the spirit of the Spice Islands, with the armed dragons in the shape of Malay aborigines who guard them. Gay Venetian pendants stream down over bags and bales, carelessly covered with tiger and leopard skins, and bursting with a profusion of produce that threatens to pour down upon your head. Under skins and furs, and palm boughs, and deer horns, the side panels are decked out with ragged tobacco leaves and drooping grasses, alternating with primitive Malay weapons. The corners at each angle bear the names of the various possessions — Java, Borneo, Celebes, Timor, &c. ; beneath, in cases, is arranged an exhaustive collection of all the growths of the islands — spices, cotton, rice, teas, coffees, sugars, barks, gums, and indiarubber. Another important object in this department is a bottle obelisk, by Wijnaud Forking, the great Amsterdam liqueur merchant, which, with the designs worked out of the coloured liqueurs, is a highly-creditable specimen of Dutch Bacclianalian art. The Belgian motto, " L'Union fait la force," is exemplified in her Exhi- bition as in everything else, for she sends many exhibitors, and is altogether as thorough a sample of the useful and ornamental as any country need Ix;. The useful perhaps predominates, but there is a finish and a thoroughness about all that this little kingdom does that reminds one of England. Belgium, like England, is a great iron and coal producing country, and it is not astonishing, therefore, that to a certain extent she has the same physiognomy. Indeed, her iron is represented here as the finished article, and not as machinery, in a far superior manner to her English neighbour. Liege is the great centre of the Belgian iron trade, and we therefore find most of this class of exhibitors from this neighbourhood. There are some polished sheets of Bessemer steel, so thin that they rattle with every breath of air ; while close by is a perfect triumphal arch of iron tubes. The Socii^td Anonyme de Fer at Augrie, Liege, has enormous discs and plates of iron, with samples of all sorts of tortures that iron can be put to, and the ex- cellent fortitude with which it bears it. It is twisted, cut, rent, wrenched, torn, bent, and otherwise maltreated, and yet it refuses to break- A splendid model of the extensive ironworks of Mariemont gives an excellent idea of the large range of country which such an establishment occupies, with its various departments of furnaces and rolling mills and the coal pits required to supply the same with fuel. Close by we see a collection of minerals which such an area as this produces ; specimens of coal and coke, iron ore in the raw state, 174 ITALY. galena and others which make up the real riches of the country. There is also a tolerable display of chemical industry, although nothing new. Belgian textile fabrics are well represented. There is a large show case extending all across the gallery of the '' Collective Exhibition of the Cotton Industry," in which the several firms which are prominent in this direction have banded together to show what they can do, a far better idea than a number of little independent cases all showing the same thing. By the side of the lace, however, everything else sinks into insignificance. Some dresses are entirely covered with Valenciennes of the most exquisite patterns, and good as our machine-made laces of Nottingham are, they sink to nothing- by the side of these delicate fabrics. The Swiss lace is not to be compared with it, nor will it bear looking at closely in the same way. Some of the carpets are excellent, and of the most brilliant colours, especially some of the large rugs with life-sized designs from classical subjects, such as Perseus and Andromeda. One of the most interesting exhibits is a very exten- sive one of cane-work, shewing its various useful and ornamental applications. Rugs and footstools are made of the shavings, carpets of the twisted fibres, alternately coloured black and green, pillows and mattresses are stufted with it, ornamental baskets are made with it and filled with variously coloured spirals, which trail over the side like creepers, and finally there is a large carpet, with a view of the manufactory where all this is done, worked in cane fibre. A curious use is made of hair for pictures, not as designed by hair artists for interesting and melancholy reminiscences, but regular landscapes made of fine chopped hair and put on with a brush, having somewhat an eftect between Indian ink and charcoal. The Belgian photographs are good, but not super-excellent, though a Ghent exhibitor has some interesting views of the moon on an enlarged scale. The printing, engraving, and binding display is excellent, as is also that of school-books. Italy has a very good display, and may be reckoned amongst the best represented of the Western nations. As to her pianos, they might as well have reiiiained at Naples ; but there are some very beautiful specimens of wood earnings and inlaid furniture, some wonderfully delicate Mosaics, and a fairy-like collection of fragile Venetian glass, and chandeliers with multi- coloured lustres of spun glass. Appropriately conspicuous in Central Italy is a small statuary Court — figures in a circle surround a quadrangidar trophy of rich wood carving, the whole crowned with a lifelike wooden bust of His Majesty Victor Emmanuel. In the Sculpture Court the nude preponderates, there being quite an array of Eves, bathers, slaves, &c. The Italian /i?/V//(Y'j are, for the most part, unsatisfactory ; the copies of old china have an unpleasant yellowish tinge. There are several figures similar to Dresden china, and some blue and gilded pottery, but they are poorly designed and coarsely executed. In one corner of the court is a very fine mantelpiece, supported by syrens. The first thing which most visitors will look for on entering the Swiss court ^vill be the watches, and the next the wood-carving, for both of which SWirZERLAMJ AND FHANCh. 175 Switzerland is so famous. In this Swiss Exhibition we may see watches in every form of disintegration and transformation, and can form some idea of the separate industries that are carried on in the component parts. One case shows all the various processes that are required to Ix; simultaneously carried on lx:fore the watch l>ecomes a thing of life ; while another contains watch- springs, some of which are so minute that it almost requires a microscope to trace the delicate spirals, and indeed the smallest of them look much more like soap bubbles than anything else. There are some very l^eautiful s[>eci- mcns of painting on enamel and jewel ornamentations, one of the size of a sixpence, which glitters with diamonds, and another in which the centre is a cameo head, surrounded by a diamond circle. Nor is the decoration confined to expensive watches ; some very pretty painted ones are fixed at marvel- lously low prices. Some pretty brown ware with a bright glaze comes from Schaffhausen, and the geological and other societies have sent a very capital collection of relief maps and models of mountain districts. Such models of glacier districts as the Aletsch glacier and St. Gothard are deserving of the most careful study, .Switzerland has a very complete display of silks from the raw material in the cocoon to the complete robe, these come principally from Zurich. There are some very elegant ribbons from liasle,somebeautifullyembroidered muslins from Appenzell and St. Gall. Zurich also shows some excellent cabinet pianos and some grands. In the wood-carving group there is a profusion of all kinds from the ancient farm-house and yard, with its inscriptions on the former and the pigs and the dogs in the latter, to the simple inkstand or paper-knife. Characteristic as this carving is, it is still more characteristic how frequently musical boxes are incorporated with the articles. There is a house outside the Exhibition full of Spieliverke, in which wood-carving and music are thus blended together from the grand organ in which there is a mdlange of every instrument under the sun, to the Ixjok which begins to play when you open it, the bottle which discourses music as soon as the wine is poured out, or the chair which startles you when you sit down by striking up the Wedding March- France occupies a large share of the principal gallery, and has erected two rows of pavilions, leaving a passage down the centre. Here are real bronzes, and their clever imitations, china in all its variety, furniture hangings and tapestry ; in fact, every article connected with decorative furniture. There are numerous cases of jewellery and gold and silver work, together with countless Articles de Paris, for which France is so famous. Now we pause in admiration before two panels in china, by Gluck, subject, cavalcades in the reign of Henri II., perfect mar\'els of taste in design and colouring, anon two n)'mphs, by Kauvier, equally charming ; whilst, in a corner, half hidden from view, is the head of a young girl draf>ed with violet, which forms a most effective background. There are some well-executed cabinets, and other decorative furniture ; but these occasionally are profusely overladen with ornaments. A collection of plans of public buildings, schools, churches, &c., 176 SPAIN AND PORTUGAL contributed by the " Ville de Paris," are highly interesting and instructive ; there are also some, a few, astronomical and other scientitic instruments. Not far from these instruments is the model of an invention for the safety of raihvay travellers, to facilitate the communication between guard and pas- senger. The third gallery is occupied by the French colonies. Algeria sends various kinds of wines, grain, olives, and colza oil ; cotton figures largely in this department. The Algerian woods are also very remarkable, sections of the "cedar and cork trees from Constantine, which include the bark in a natural state, and the products made therefrom, as well as the rough materials of pipes in the shape of heath roots. Senegal shows a quantity of its abundant products, india-rubber, also ebony, ivory, and ostrich feathers. The Cochin China collection is not very interesting ; it consists of a mmiber of small objects of furniture. The boxes and cabinets, however, inlaid with mother- of-pearl, the workmanship of Avhich is most delicate, are real cJu-fs d\viivrt's. Spain has a \ariety of products — cloth, cotton, silk, basket-work, and glass. The most attractive object in this department is a case containing the crosses, badges, and cordons of the various Spanish orders, arranged in the midst of a quantity of filagree jewellery. The Portuguese were amongst the first ready, and their department shows a praiseworthy desire to represent their country and nation under the most fa\-ourable aspect. The china, we must confess, is not equal to the Sevres manufactures, nor the glass to that of Bohemia or France, but both are very good in their way. The royal printing establishment sends some very excellent speciments of printing, whilst rich stufts, leathers, gorgeous bind- ings, hats, and lingerie, are here in profusion, together with some choice examples of marbles and minerals. The plans of the Lisbon and Oporto cathedrals are highly interesting, as are also some curious photographs of the sun, whilst in the court is a pleasing group of figures in natural costume. The United States department has been unlucky in its exhibits. In the early part of the )-ear the trickery of the first-appointed American commis- sion delayed all arrangements, and afterwards the cases containing the goods remained so long on the road that a description of their contents must neces- sarily be incomplete. The States, however, are strong in fii'earms, whilst a useful and somewhat singular exhibit is a representation of the pork. and ham establishments of Cincinnati, whei'ein is shown the whole process of 'killing, salting, and preparing hogs. 'i!:'!!I THE SUBURBS OF VIENNA. 179 The suburbs of Vienna arc renowned alike for Vjcauty and variety, and the tourist can pass rapidly from the villa-studded valleys to the mountains, overlooking^ the city, with the advantage of arriving at most of them by either the omnibus (Stellwagen) the tramway (I'ferdebahn), or in the case of some (which shall be noted) by steamboat from the Franz-Josef f^uai. To Dobling, Heiligenstadt, Nussdorf, Kulcnbcrgcrdorf, Weidling, Kloster- nenburg, Kirling, the Kalcnberg, and Leopoldsberg. For Dobling the tourist may either proceed Ijy the tramway, or omnibus, from various sUitions, all of which are enumerated in their place. This suburb, divided into Unter and Ober-Dobling, is, as it were, the Clapham of Vienna, containing the villas of wealthy merchants, bankers, and members of the Stock Exchange, summed up by the Wieners in the comprehensive term, Geld-aristokratie. Unter-Uobling is also a famous resort on summer evenings, when the Viennese fly from the heat and dust of the city, the latter as palpable as the dust-plague of Egypt in the days of Moses, to the pleasant shades of the Zogerintz Casino, where they can sip their melatige and smoke their cigar in a charming garden, or, should it rain, in a handsome pavilion, whilst they listen to the valses of Strauss, interpreted by one of the many bands for which the Kaiserstadt is famous. One great advantage these gardens possess — and no one acquainted with the uncertain climate of the valley of the Danube will be disposed to undervalue it — the tramway runs into the gardens themselves, and ladies can alight under cover without running the risk of being drenched by a sudden shower, or having their toilettes ruined by a douche of rain-water, succeeding several strata of dust. In Dobling the trade resembles in one particular that of Passage near Cork, it is given to wines, and in the wine vaults of many of the merchants there millions of gallons are interred, awaiting a pleasant resuscitation. Speaking of its resemblance to Passage, in one instance, many readers will doubtless remember Father Prout's description of the latter — There are ships from Cadiz, And from Harhadoes ; Hut the principal trade is In whisky punch. Now omit the ships, for the best of all possible reasons, there being no ships, and substitute wine for punch, and the trade of Dobling is demonstrated to a nicety. Wendl's Garden during the Exhibition time also offer the attrac- tions of military concerts and day balls at 4 o'clock, entrance 40 kreutzers, for four persons 30 kreutzers each ; and on .Sundays and Mondays double concerts, illuminations, balls, and festivities. In the Cemetery rest the rival composers, Lanner and the elder .Strauss, who for long ruled the Viennese dance world with opposing batons, the mantle of the latter having been divided Ijetween his sons Edward and Johann .Strauss. From OIxrr-Dobling you pass to a high watch-tower, where is a Kaffe-restauration, the two being rarely combined in Vienna, near Heiligenstadt, the holy place where .St. .Scvcrin, the founder of wine culture in this district, lived and died 842 a.d. Here one i8o THE SUBURBS OF VIENNA. may rest at Kugler's Park, where there is a spa and a fine swimming bath also a restauration with the adjuncts of beer, wine, and coffee. Nota. — At most of the restaurations take beer, if Pilsner be written up say " Pilsner," if not, simply " Beer," this cosmopolite word always finds answer. From the Heiligenstadt you pass easily to Nussdorf. Nussdorf — as Mrs. Glasse would say, by another way — take the steamboat from the Frans Josef Quai, nearly opposite to the Metropole, and as you go along the very uninteresting Danube Canal, take your place on the side on which you enter, the left from the stern, for though the view by that is not enthralling, consisting mostly of timber yards, wood-rafts, and dirty women washing linen, in which they do not follow Napoleon's maxim , " De laver leur linge sale en famille ; " still, as the right bank (this is a canal, not a river, so the division is arbitrary) is a pile of imfinished canal work, with embankments half debris, half masonry, the left should, although " right in front, be left behind." Thus, going along in the pretty little river boats you get an excellent view of the Rudolfs's Caserne, a wonderfully pretty specimen of a barrack, of the New Augarten Suspension Bridge, with its four statues, and as you pass on to Nussdorf charming glimpses of the Wiener Wald, the Kalenberg, and the Leopoldsberg. Nussdorf is the point of junction of the Danube Canal with the main stream, thence the steamers for Passau and Ling start. At Nussdorf you pass through the village, steering west, and by a narrow lane rise to the Bockkeller, or Bock Cellar, where the Bock Bier of Munich, something milder than our " Cooper," is not only sold in perfection, but where those who are scant of breath can obtain a charming view of the Danube River, the City of Vienna, the Danube stream, with its new channel, and the rapid, dangerous, and wicked little Danube Canal. Mounting higher through vineyards whose names are known (or copied) in every " wein und bier halle " in Vienna, you rise by a gradual slope giving new charms at every view, now of the Leopoldsberg, now of the Kalenberg, anon of the Danube itself, on its way from Passau with the Marchfeld, scene of so many encounters, spreading away with its wide champaign country, on the opposite bank of the river, to the distant Carpathians, till you arrive, not till after a long time, at the main road, turn- ing from which by one or two steep ascents, you reach the heights of the Kalenburg. Thence, yet another route by the Franz Josef Eisenbahn to Kalenbergerdorf, and mount again through vineyards, with almost similar scenery to that already spoken of, and though this route may be commended for its brevity, owing to its — shall we say— propinquity to Leopoldsberg, it does not give in the ascent such extensive views of the Danube, although pre- senting a charming aspect of Klosternenberg, a few yards from the railway station. The Kalenberg is historic in arms and in art, and here on the spot, is the " Mozart Casino," where a brass band, a scratch one, tells out not in- eloquently, the sufferings of Manrico, exhorts us to be happy together, or tells magnificent musical lies of the blueness of the Danube, its pea green stream rolling ben(iath our eyes. On this very spot, this " Mozart Casino," John THE SUBURBS OF VIENNA. i8i Sobieski, King of Poland, raised the Christian banner on the 12th September, 1684, the next day driving the Moslems to the suburb of Wahring, and as an American gentleman on this same spot suggested, " knocked the turbans into a cocked hat," beside which the Prussians in '66 were not five hours from Vienna. But to many it will have a higher interest in this very inn, possessing the room, now a beerhall, in which Mozart composed the major portion of his " Zauberflote." The view, indeed, Avas enough to inspire him. Pity some of our modern composers do not make the ascent, but then Mozart did not write for the publishers, he wrote for time. On the terrace of this little auberge, you see on your left the Leopoldsberg, with its Muscovite-towered church and con- vent, now a restauration, its vine-clad slopes, beyond the wooded islands of the Danube and the Bisamberg blossoming like Aaron's rod, though with another harvest ; then beyond on the left Wagram and Lobau, nearer Aspern, and in the centre the wide-spreading Marchfeld, site of the many battle-fields of the old struggles for empire ; then the wide spreading wood- islanded Danube, with, as the Viennese term it, the " Regulated Danube " bordering the Prater, and the World's Congress of the Weltaustellung, with the Imperial crown of the Kaiser glistening in the sun above the Rotonde ; between us the Augarten, with its hedges of green trees, the red-built towers of the Brigettenau, the glorious spire of St. Stephens, the cupola and minarets of the Karls-Kirchc, the double towers of the Votive, the many- storied Ring-encircled city of Vienna, the stream itself, the canal, the bridges with their passing trains, the steamers on the river, the quaint barges, the rafts of mountain timber, above all the wondrous expanse of country, backed by the Carpathians, the Wiener Wald, the Soemmering and the Styrian Alps, make it a scene to see but for a moment and to remember for a life-time. On the very summit of the Kalenberg has been erected, or rather is erecting, a fine hotel of rustic architecture, telling well against the woods by which it is surrounded, but it is not ready, — "Manana" is the word again — to- morrow it may open, and certainly the view from its upper windows will be superb, still not so good as in the humble Mozart Casino, where the terraced roof takes in the same view, with the addition of the Leopoldsberg and the Islands of the Upper Danube. Leaving the road you plunge into a forest, passing a stone commemorating the May feasts of the artists of Vienna from the year 1848, and emblazoned with the triple shields of the palette and brushes, the mallet and chisel, and the compass and square, and in five minutes' walk you arrive at a clearing, giving a total change of view, shutting out the city and looking down on Klosternenbcrg and its enormous monastery, on the picturesque Castle of Greifenstein, the Danube, and the Bisamberg. To Klosternenberg by the steamboat from Franz Josef Quai, not taking a return (in fact, always avoiding that process, as the tickets of one line of boats do not pass with the others, besides binding you to go over the same ground) or by rail from the Franz Josef railway station. Once there visit the Chapel of St. Leopold, con- 1 82 THE SUBURBS OF VIENNA. taining his remains, and the remains of his wife, the Markgravine Agnes, the loss of which from the Leopoldsberg and subsequent discovery here, led to the monaster)^ being founded on the site. Here, besides a rare collection of old specimens of writing, medals, and paintings, will be found the earliest known specimens of engraving, in some hundreds of metal plates in niello, containing Biblical subjects, and executed for Prior Wernher, between the years 1168 and 11 86. The Ducal Crown of Austria, always used by the Emperor at his coronation, is here preserved, and on the summit of a tower is an enormous model in gilt copper, whilst in the cellars is a rare store, if not " of Malmsey and Mal- voisie," at least of Klosternenberg, which the monks are only too happy to dispose of. i\.s this is probably the best way to spend a day, tourists are advised to go first to Klosternenberg, return by the footpath along the slope of the hill, amid the vines to Kalenberg, or by the new traction line above Kalerbergendorf, which will draw trains up by a wire rope from Klosternen- berg, on the principle once adopted by the Blackwall line with its stationary engine. However, though the station is ready, the works are not complete, nor will be for some time. Or, before starting for the Kalen- burg, the tourist may start for Weidling, on the left, reach it in a quarter of an hour by a bye path, and see its pretty valley of beech wood on the slopes of which is produced the well-known (to Viennese) Weidlinger wine, and having seen the tomb of the poet, Lenaru, return. The pretty village of Kirling is indebted for its many villas to its sanitary reputation, but, unless as a mid- summer's idle stroll, its omission is not of much concern But when at Nuss- dorf, Kalenbergerdorf, or the Kalenberg itself, the Leopoldsberg should be visited without fail, with its wider scope of the scenery of the Danube, stand- ing immediately as it does over the glorious stream, with Klosternenberg and the wooded islands stretching away in the distance to Passau, and the old stream, the canal, and the regulated Danube, with their many bridges, over the former and latter the frequent trains, passing like toy automatons, or winding through the country like long black snakes. The view of the city and the suburbs, with the background of the Styrian Alps is, with allowance for " change of venue," the same as from the Kalenberg, and as a difference of opinion exists as to the relative picturesqueness, the tourist should judge for himself, and visit both. ADVERTISEMENTS. VIENNA UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION.— Class II., Group 6. SUTTON & SONS, Seedsmen, (by special appointment to the queen and ii.r.ii. the prince op wales) Beg to call the attention of Visitors to their magnificent display of Seeds, Grasses, Models, &c., in Class II., Group 6, of the British Section. The above Awards have been made io Messrs. Sutton &> Sons /or the Superior Quality of their Seedt. SUTTONS' CRASS SEEDS FOR ALL SOILS. SUTTON and SONS are the only English Seedsmen appointed to supply Grass Seeds to the Im- perial Austrian Commission, and the Grounds of the Vienna Exhi- bition have been sown with Seeds specially prepared by them for the -^ -^t/f-fN^r^ purpose. The following Testimony to their excellence has been re- ceived from the Director-General of the Exhibition : — "■March 24th, 1873. " I require some more Grass Seeds to saiu in the Exhibitioti Grounds. I take the liberty — considering that the Seeds already sent by you h.we turned out so very satisfactorily — to ask whether you -would be willing to send us some more on the same conditions and terms as the previous consignment. Please to let me know as soon as possible when, and what quantity, you cotdd still send me. (Signed) ' ' SCHWA RZ SENS ORN. " Messrs. SUTTON have also the honour of supplying the Emperor of Austria, the Emperor of Germany, Queen of England, and most of the Crowned Heads of Europe. prices and full particul.\rs gratis and post free on application. Suttons' Prize Farm Seeds, as see Models of Produce on Messrs. SUTTONS' Stand in the British Section. Suttons' Choice Vegetable Seeds, as see Models of Produce on Messrs. SUTTONS' Stand ni the British Section. Suttons' Showy Flower Seeds, as sown round H.R.H. the Prince of Wales' Pavilion at the Vienna Exhibition. Royal Berks Seed Establislmient, Reading, England, near London. ADVERTISEMENTS. LEITH AND ROSS, HOMOEOPATHIC CHEMISTS, 9, Vere Street, W., and 5, St. Paul's Churchyard, London, E.C. The following Homceopathic Medicine Cases are strongly recommended as being well adapted "for the practice of Iloma^oiiathy in the family, being conveniently arranged, and by using wjiich much suftering and expense will be saved. No. 2 is a Morocco Pocket Folding Case,containing twenty- six tubes of Globules, and a Book of Instructions, giving the treatment of all common com- plaints in a simple and concise manner, especially adapted for the treatment of Children, and for family use. Price complete, 20S. A Case similarly arranged for Pilules, 24s. Ditto, ditto, for Tinctures, 24s. No ::. No.ViA. — A compact Family Case, fitted to contain either Pilules or Tinctures, with a drawer holding the most useful External Tinctures ; also a Book of Direc- tions, giving every informatioii as to the choice of a remedy, mode of administration, and the dose to be given. Leith and Ross's Illustrated Catalogue is now ready, giving much infomialion on Homceopathic Prepai"atious, Books and Cases, &c. Also plain directions for the treatment of Common Complaints. Post free on application. LEITH & ROSS, HOMCEOPATHIC CHEMISTS, 5, St. Paul's Churchyard, E.C, and 9, Vere Street, W., London. AD VER TISEMENTS. WEDDING OUTFIT FOR JB50 Outfits to India, | Outfits to Japan, Outfits to China, | Outfits to Australia, For £20, £40, £60, and £100. BABY LINEN. Infants' Robes, los. 6d. to Piccadilly J upon, Christening Cloaks, 21s. to 20 guineas. 12s. 6d. 10 guineas. £20 Wedding Outfit. List of Articles post fre<;. Can be supplied at an hour's notice. Mrs. ADDLE Y BOURNE, 37, Piccadilly. £50 Indian Outfit. List post free. " Many valuable ' hints ' are sent free for the asking."— Cc»«r/ Circular. Mrs. ADDLEY BOURNE, 37, Piccadilly. £10 and £20 Baby Linen Sets. Lists post free. "Excellent quality and good t-iste." — The Queen. Mrs. ADDLEY BOURNE, 37, Piccadilly. £40 Baby Linen Set. List post free. "Excellent quality and good taste." Qjiceti. Mrs. ADDLEY BOURNE, 37, Piccadilly. Tlu Mrs. ADDLEY BOURNE, LADIES' OUTFITTER and FAMILY FJRAPER, 37, PICCADILLY, Opposite St. James's Church. a 2 ADVERTISEMENTS. IRIS H LIN ENS. JAMES LINDSAY and COMPANY, Donegall Place, Belfast, will forward to any railway station, carriage paid on parcels of ;^5 and upwards in value, DAMASK TABLE LINENS, DIAPERS, SHEETINGS, PILLOW LINENS, SHIRTINGS, TOWELLINGS, &c., and every description of LiNEN FABRICS for Household Use. PRICE LISTS AND PATTERNS POST FREE. JAMBS LINDSAY and CO., LINEN MERCHANTS, &C., BELFAST. MANUFACTURERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF FURNITURE, For the Castle, the Hall, the Mansion, the Palace, The Rectory, the Library, and Billiard Room. 161 and 162, STRAND, LONDON. Estimates and Designs for any Amount Free. Workmen sent to all parts of the Kingdom, ESTABLISHED 1820. ADVERTISEMENTS. O'REILLY, DUNNE, and CO., 30, COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN, IRISH POPLIN MANUFACTURERS To Her Majesty the Queen, Her Eoyal Higliness the Princess of Wales, &c. ESTABLISHED 1790. Extracts from the Press : — From The Times. " Orders come from the Continent and from America for this beautiful fabric, and " Royal patronage has created new demands for it." From Bdgravia Magazine. (Extract from "Historical Sketch of Irish Poplin Trade.") " First in order of Poplin houses may be placed the firm of O'Reilly, Dunne, " AND Co. From the goods of this firm her present Majesty selected ai'ticles for her " wardrobe whilst she was still the Princess Victoria." From The Court Jotirnal. * ' The products of the Irish looms have never been surpassed by even France or " Italy for beauty of colour or elegance of finish." From The Irish Times. " Messrs. O'Reilly, Dunne, and Co. have been favoured with an order from " H.R.H. the Marchioness of Lome for some of their rich double Irish Poplin. When " we have mentioned the name of this firm, it is unnecessary to add anything regarding '* the beauty and elegance of the fabric." From The Graphic. " For the interests of the manufacturer Irish Poplins wear too well ; they outlast " every other material used for ladies' dresses, and are a real boon to the economic." PATTERNS POST FREE. PARCELS CARRIAGE PAID. AMERICAN ORDERS CARRIAGE FREE TO LIVERPOOL OR QUEENSTOWN. AD VERTISEMENTS. MECHI, 112. RECENT ST.. LONDON. LONG CELEBRATED for FIRST-CLASS WORK AND ALL THE NEWEST FASHIONS, at MODERATE PRICES, IN TRAVELLING DRESSING BAGS, DESPATCH BOXES, Dressing Cases in Wood and Leather, ORNAMENTAL ELEGANCIES SUITABLE FOR WEDDING PRESENTS AND BIRTHDAY GIFTS, FIRST-CLASS CUTLERY. MECHI commenced business in Leadenhall Street in 1827, and Ms^ celebrated MAGIC STROP, SUPERIOR RAZORS, and MAGIC STROP PASTE, are known *'tlie world over." ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES POST FREE. 1177 NEWSPAPERS RECOMMEND THE PENS OF MAGNIVEN & CAMERON. For their Names see Graphic, May 17, 1873. The Standard says— " The ' WAVERLEY ' Pen will prove a treasure." The C^wri-yw/m^/ says— "The 'OWL' Pen for fine writing is unsurpassed, and is par excellence the Ladies' Pen." Tlie Engineer says—" The 'PICKWICK' Pen embodies an improvement of great value." The Sun says— "The 'PHAETON' Pen creates both wonder and delight." The Tablet says— " The 'WAVERLEY BARREL' Pen suits the requirements of any hand. " Public Opinion. — "The 'BROAD ARROW' Pen cannot be surpassed for smooth- ness, boldness, and durability." ( By Royal Letters Patent, granted sjt/i Feb. , iSyo). SOLD BY EVERY RESPECTABLE STATIONER IN THE WORLD. Macniven & Cameron, 23 to 33, Blair St,, Edinburgh, AD VERTISEMENTS. Vienna Exhibition. Group Xm. Stand No. 472. BRADFORD'S PATENT WASHING "VOWEL" MACHINERY. . The value of the ''Vowel" Washing Machine, its wonderful effi- ciency as a washer, the simple yet perfect arrangement of its various sizes-froni the exceedingly popular household Machine, "Vowel" A, with which any gu-1 of twelve years can wash twelve shirts or a proportionate batch of other mis- cellaneousarticles — to the largest sizes, which wash a hundred sheets at once, and the great economy that results from its adoption are now universally attested. 'Vowel" A, with C Acorn Wringing Machine, see first Illustration, price /6 is. 6d., is a favourite Family Ma- vuwci, n chine ; if the family exceeds say twelve person.s Vowel I, price ;^8 4s., with Wringer, is still more economical. The combined Washing, Wringing, and Mang- hng Machines (see second Illustration). Vowel ^^^{[S 8s., and vowel t. ^9, are highly recommended; and the Best Family " Wnnging and Mangling Machines are No. o. ,^3 12s. 6d. , and No. i, C\ 5R. COMPLETE ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES FREE BY PO.ST. <^& &M.-M. THOMAS BRADFORD AND CO., 63, FLEET STREET, London. CATHEDRAL STEPS, Manchester. AD VERTJSEMENTS, VIE NNA, 1 873. THE GREAT EASTERnIaILWAY COMPANY Issue the following Tickets, via Harwich, by the fast mail trains and most interesting routes, enabling the passenger to combine a visit to the Exhibition with a tour on the Continent, or to go through direct. FARES-LONDON TO VIENNA. Via ROTTERDAM. First Class. Second Class. SINGLE . . . /7 7 o ;^5 3 5 RETURN . . . II 2 6 7 17 6 Via ROTTERDAM AND MUNICH. SINGLE . . . £l IS o £S 9 Z RETURN ... II 12 6 850 • Via ANTWERP. SINGLE . . . ;^7 7 9 i:S 4 3 Via ANTWERP AND MUNICH. SINGLE . . . ;^7 15 o £S 9 Z These tickets enable the holder to see the Rhine en route. The Company also issue tickets by many other routes, all of which may be obtained at Bishopsgate Station. The Great Eastern Company also issue through tickets from England to the chief towns on the Continent, and passengers can obtain tickets to England by this route at the chief Continental stations by asking for tickets via Harwich. The Company carry goods at through rates from England to Vienna and all chief towns on the Continent without the intervention of any agent ; and the Railway Companies at Vienna and other towns invoice goods direct to England by this route in the same manner. For Time Tables, list of agents, fares, and rates, apply to the Continental Department, Great Eastern HOiilway^ Bishopsgate Station, London., AD VERTISEMENTS. EIGHT EXHIBITION PRIZE MEDALS. Gold Medal of the Acad^mie Naiiotiale Maniifacturiire et Commerciale, Paris FRY'S CHOCOLATE 1 COCOA BRISTOL and LONDON. This Manufacturing House has been established upwards of one century, and produces CHOCOLATE and Cocoa in great variety, including the finest Chocolate in tablets and other forms. Chocolate Confectionery, and Cocoa adapted for general consumption. The business not only includes the preparation of these goods by powerful steam machinery, but also making them up in packages of all descrip- tions, in which department a large number of hands is employed. J. S. Fry & Sons have had the honour of receiving the appointments of Manufacturers to the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the late Em- peror of the French. The prize Medals awarded, as stated above, are a grati- fying proof of the position assigned by the most competent judges to the manufactures of this firm. Several descriptions are especially adapted for Exportation, and are carefully prepared so as to retain their freshness and delicacy for a long period. In many of the British Colonies and elsewhere these articles are well known and appreciated. Acht Preis Medaillen an/ den intematio7ialen AiissleUungen zu London, 1851; Nnv York, 1853; Paris, 185s; London, 1862; Dublin, i86s ; utui Paris, 1867. Dublin, 1872 ; Mos- koue, 1872; Gold Medaille der Nationalen Aca- demic fiir Ge^verhe und Handel, Paris. Fabri- canteu {diirch jpccielle Emennung) fiir die Konigin, den Prinzen von IVales, und den Kaiser von Frankreich. Diese Fabrik besteht seit mehr als einem Jahrhundert und liefert Chocolate und Cacao in einer grossen Mannigfaltigkeit, worunter die feinste Chocolate in Tafeln als Backwerk, und in anderer Form : ebenso den zu allgemeinem Ver- brauch bestimmten Cacao. Das Geschaft um- fasst nicht nur die Zubcrcitung dieser Fabricate durch bedeutcnde Dampfmaschinerie, sondern auch die Verpackung deiselben in Packchen aller Arten, in welchem Zvveige eine grosse Menge Leute beschaftigt werden. J. S. Fry & SiiHNE haben die Ehre, seit mehr als 100 Jahren die Liefcranten der koniglichen Familie zu sein und wurden zu Fabricanten fiir die Konigin, den Prinzen von Wales und den Kaiser von Frankreich ernannt. Die oben erwahnten dieser Firma zuerkannten Preisme- daillen sind den competentesten Richtern ein geniigender Beweis, dass sie sich eines wohlver- dienten Rufes erfreut. Verchiedene Arten ihrer Fabricate eignen sich besonders zur Ausfuhr und sind sorgfaltig zubereitet, so dass sie ihre Frische und Feinheit eine lange Zeit behalten. In vie- lender Britischen Colonien sind diese Artikel wohlbekannt und werden hoch geschatzt. . Fry's Caracas Cocoa. Fry's Homoeopathic Cocoa. Fry's Caracas Chocolate. Fry's Chocolate Creams. J. S. FRY& SONS, Chocolate & Cocoa Manufacturers BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO THE QUEEN AND THE PRINCE OF WALES. See y. S, FRYQr» SONS' case in the Vienna Universal Exhibition^ Group IV. AD VERTISEMENTS 44 PHINEAS REDUX: BY ANTHONY TROLLOPE B I L LIA R D S. BY APPOINTMENT. ESTABLISHED A. D. 1814. THURSTON and CO., BILLIARD TABLE MANTJPACTUEBES, LAMP MAKERS, AND GAS-FIHERS, Invite Billiard Players and the Public generally to inspect their NEW AND EXTENSIVE SHOWROOMS, WHICH ARE REPLETE WITH A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF BILLIARD TABLES AND BILLIARD ROOM FURNITURE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. OFFICES AND SHOW ROOMS:— CATHEEINE STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.O. FACTORY:— WATERLOO BILLIARD WORKS, CHELSEA, S.W. AD VER TISEMENTS. F. Bl C. OSLER, 45, OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W., MANUFACTURERS OF CRYSTAL GLASS CHANDELIERS, , CANDELABRA, LUSTRES, WALL LIGHTS, TABLE GLASS, &c, &c. MANUFACTORY— BROAD STREET, BIRMINGHAM. ESTABLISHED 1807. Ornamental G-lass, English and Foreign, suitable for Presents. Mess, Export, and Furnishing Orders promptly executed. CHANDELIERS IN BRONZE AND ORMOLU, FOR DINING ROOM AND LIBRARY. Candelabra, Moderator Lamps, and Lamps for India. STATUETTES IN PARIAN, VASES, and other Ornaments, OSLER, 45, OXFORD STREET, W. AD VER TISEMENTS. ESTABLISHED 1844. WHITLEY PARTNERS, RAILWAY WORKS, LEEDS, MANUFACTURERS OF IMPROVED STEAM ENGINES, BO HERS, PUMPS, S^c.j Makers, by Special Machinery, of Patented Mechanical Inventions, COMPRISING NUMEROUS LABOUR-SAVING APPLIANCES AND ECONOMISERS OF FUEL AND MOTIVE POWER ; Contractors to the European and Colonial Govern- ments and Corporations; MERCHANTS AND SHIPPERS OF MACHINERY, METALS, AND HARDWARE; THE FIRS T PRIZE MEDAI at the Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1867, ^^ For Improved Construction, Excellence of Material, and Superior Workinanskip ;" TWO GRAND GOLD MEDALS at the Moscow International Exhibition, 1872; Also the FIRST PRIZE MEDALS at Leeds and Lyons in i8jS, 1S68, and 1872. Illustrated Catalogues and Estimates on Application. CORRESPONDENCE conducted in ENGLISH, GERMAN, & FRENCH. Samples of Specialties may be inspected at Stand No. 542, Group XIII. in the English Machinery Annexe of the Vienna Exhibition, 1873. For List of same see " British Section " C.a,talogiie. BENNETT'S 'HOUSE, OFFICE, & SHOP DIALS, EIGHT-DAY PIECES, In Mahogany, Oak, or Eosewood Cues, warranted lor perfect time. CASH PRICES, 12-in... £3 3 ..4 4 ..6 6 .. 7 10 .. 10 10 .. 16 16 MAKER TO THE QUEEN. BENNETTS' KEYLESS WATCHES. KO KJBT REQTJIEED. AIR-TIGHT, DAMP-TIGHT, DUST-TIQHT. r Gs. Q». Gs. Silver 6 8 10 Gold 10 12 14 BENNETT'S MODEL WATCK Is a combination of all th( recent improvements for pcrions- aoce, taste, and economy, secnricf to the wearer the indis- pensable comfort of perfect time. A D VER T/SE MEATS. GOODALL'S QUININE WINE (Prepared with Howard's Quinine) Is an invaluable and agreeable Stomachic to all suffering from General Debility, Indigestion, Nervousness, and Loss of Appetite. Recommended for its PURITY by the Food yourfia/, Anti-Adulteration Review, ARTHUR HiLL Hassell, M.D. ; Wentworth Lascelles Scott, Esq., F.C.S., F.A.S.L., F.R.S.S.A., &c. Sold by Grocers, Chemists, &c., &c., in large bottles, at 2s. each. Prepared by GOODALL, BACKHOUSE, and CO., LEEDS. THE CELEBRATED YORKSHIRE RELISH. The cheapest and most delicious Sauce in the World. Warranted pure, and free from any injurious ingredient. 672,192 Bottles sold in One Month (Aug., 1872). Sale unprecedented in the history of Sauces. Sold by Grocers, Druggists, and Oilmen, in bottles, at 6d., IS., and 2S. each. Manufacturers : — T^adtMark.Resistd. GOODALL, BACKHOUSE, and CO., LEEDS. GOODALL'S BAKING POWDER. For making delicious Bread, Puddings, Pastry, &c., with half the quantity of Butter, Lard, or Eggs. THE BEST PENNY PACKET IN THE WORLD. Warranted free from alum or any other injurious ingre- dient. Bread made with this Powder is easier to digest and much more wholesome than fermented or other bread, and a larger quantity is obtained from the same weight of flour. Sold by Grocers, Druggists, and Oilmen, in Packets at id., and in Tins at 6d., IS., IS. 6d., and 2s. each. Proprietors : — GOODALL, BACKHOUSE, and CO., LEEDS. AD VER TTSEMENTS. Prize Medals, &c., in 1851, 1853, 1855, 1862, and 1867, HAVK UKEN AWARDED '1 per yard. Washing Japanese, 6s. 9d. the Dress. Eoman Cords, Lovely Colors, Suitable for Travelling and Country Dress, 10s. 9d. the Dress. PATTERNS FREE TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. SAMUEL AMERY, ENGLISH AND FOREIGN DRESS IMPORTER, 7, High Street, Clapham, London, S.W. SEVEN VOLUMES OF "THE GKAPHIC ARE NOW READY, Price 20S. each, beautifully bound. THE GRAPHIC is sent post free within the United Kingdom for 30s. per annum ; and to the United States and countries where the rate of postage is id. per 4 oz, for 31s. 6d. (thin) and 36s. (thick copies). OFFICE: 190, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. A D VER TISEMENTS. CARLSBAD THERMAL WATERS. CARLSBAD occupies the foremost position amongst Alkaline Saline Mineral Waters. Through their extraordinary efficacy, as proved in a variety of cases, the Carlsbad sources have incontestably attained to the highest rank amongst the exported natural mineral waters. They are especially recommended for diseases of the stomach, intestines, liver, spleen, kidneys, bladder, &c., as well as in cases of weakness, also of chronic catarrh of the stomach, and for gout, diabetes, &c. The exported Carlsbad Waters are used in the same way at home as at the source itself The ordinary dose is one bottle every morning, to be taken at intervals of every twenty minutes, either COLD or warm, whilst the patient is in the open air (if convenient), or at home, or when necessary in bed. In order to increase the purgative power of the exported Carlsbad Waters, it will only be necessary to add a teaspoonful of the Sprudel Salts. When taken cold the Carlsbad Waters are much more effective as aperients than when they are warmed, consequently in their preliminary use by plethoric or similarly constituted patients, who employ them as a remedy for obstinate chronic costiveness, it is advisable to drink them cold. The operations of filling and forw arding the Mineral Waters, as well as the Sprudel Salts, Soap, and Pastilles, are under the exclusive management of HEINRICH MATTONI, Director of the Springs in Carlsbad. Visitors to Vienna who contemplate visiting Carlsbad may obtain every information on application at the bureau of Mr. Heinrich Mattoni at Vienna. WHOLESALE AGENTS FOR THE UNITED KINGDOM: INGRAM & CO., 35, BUCKLERSBURY, LONDON, E.C. Importers of Fricdrichshall, Ptillna, Kissiiigen, Marienbad, and all Continental Natural Mineral Waters. Sold Retail by all respectable Chemists and Mineral Water Dealers. A D VER TISEMENTS. VIENNA EXHIBITION. TOURISTS AND TRAVELLERS, VISITORS TO THE SEA-SIDE, AND OTHERS ■■".xposcd to the Scorchinp; Rays of the Sun and heated pnitii les (,f Dusl, will find ROWLAND'S KALYDOR A most refreshing preparation for tlie Complexion, dis- pelling the cloud of languor and relaxation, allaying all neat and irritability, and immediately affording the pleasing sensation attending restored elasticity and healthy state of the skin. Freckles, Tan, Spots, Pim- md Discoloration tly before its applica- : place to a healthy and clear Complexion. nljii Ithy state of the skin. Freckles, Tan, Spots pies, I'hishes, and Discoloration tly before lion, and give i ' In cases ofsunljurn, or stings of insects, its virtues have long been acknowledged. Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per lloltlc. ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL, A delightfully fragrant and transparent preparation, and as an invigorator and beautifier of the hair oeyond all precedent. Price 3s. (A., 7s., los. 6d. (Family liultlcs equal to four small), and 21s. per Bottle. ROWLANDS' ODONTO, OR PEARL DENTIFRICE, A White Powder, compoiuvled fif the; choicest and most fragrant exotics. It bestows on the Teeth a Pearl-like Whiteness, frees them from'I'artar, and imparts to the Gums a healthy firmness, and to the Breath a pleasing fragrance. Price 2s. gd. per Box. Sold hy all Chemists and I'erfumers on the Continent. *.* ASK FOR ROWLANDS' ARTICLES. Silver Mkdal, Besancon, i860. Prize Medal, London, 1862. The gold Medal, Paris, 1867. GOLD Medal, Havre, 1868. GOLD Medal of Honour, National Academy, Paris, 1869. GOLD Medal, Naples, 1871. GOLD Medal, Trieste, 1871. " Reid and Auld' " Prize, with the Silver Medal of the Royal Scottish Society of Arts, Edinburgh, Sessions 1863-4. To the Right Hon. Uie Lords Commissioners ofAdmirally, and to the Council of State to India. V. KULLBERQ, 105, LIVERPOOL ROAD, LONDON, N. MANUFACTURER OF MARINE AND POCKET CHRONOMETERS, And every description of High-class and Ordinary Watches. A perfect compensation balance for extremes of Temperature, requiring no separate Auxiliary adjust- ments, at last an established fact. N.B. — Two Chronometers with Kullberg's New Balances stood First on the Competitive Trial at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, 1862, one stood Second 1863, one stood Fii.st 1864, and one stood First 1872, out of 227 on the Trials. Exhibition Group, XIV., Class 2nd, No. 643. AD VERTISEMENTS. THE ROYAL DANISH GALLERIES, Under the Immediate Patronage of H.R.H. the Princess of Wales, 142, NEW BOND STREET, W. Messrs. A. BORGEN & Co., Beg to infoiin their numerous Patrons that they have on view a FINE COLLECTION OF DANISH OIL PAINTINGS, By the vi^ell-known Eminent Masters, SORENSEN, NEUMANN, BILLE, BAAGOE, ROHDE, ANDERSEN, V. MELBY, JERICHAU, &c. &c. Messrs. Borgen & Co. beg further to draw attention to their extensive Stock of GOLD JEWELLERY, IN OLD NORSE DESIGNS. Danish. Porcelain, from the Eoyal Porcelain Factory, COPENHAGEN. DANISH TERRA COTTA, PLAIN AND DECORATED IN SEVERAL HUNDRED NOVELTIES AND DESIGNS. Independently of t)ii(!ir Danish Works of Art and Manufactures, Messrs. Borgen & Co. ly \ have opened special Show-rooms for FRENCH AND BELGIAN WORKS OF ART, Comprising the largest and only Co^ectipn of its kind in England of PORCELAIN ™* "'^UiSaiq^ Vases, decorated by hand, by the most eminent "Porcelain Painters in France and Belgium. The Eoyal Danish Galleries, 142, New Bond Street, W. -^0^ ^^O^S"^^ ^^-^^^ N ' _^0 ^^ '•>>^%'^' ,^ ., ^^-n^, V ^^-^^^ 4 O . ^.l . ^_ ^^ '^^ ^'^