Class L_Lfl3 Book — ^:^i^_ Copyright N?_^ _lS_Lh ars Points of Interest reached by Street Cars of The Capital Traction Company The fare is only a nickel or six tickets for a quarter Take the GREEN C PUBLIC BUILDINGS The cars of this Company pass most of the Public Buildings and Departments. STEAMBOAT LINES Mount Vernon Steamers, and those for Norfolk and Old Point Comfort are directly on its Line, and may be reached directly or by transferring. HOTELS The principal hotels of t^e City are on its Lines. Cars stop right at the doors of most of them. THEATRES Many theatres and most of the important ones are to be reached by taking its cars. For ARLINGTON and FORT MYER, take the Pennsylvania Avenue cars to 36th and M Streets, N. W.. cross the Aqueduct Bridge, and take the cars of the Washington and Virginia Railway. For GREAT FALLS of the Potomac, take the Penn- sylvania Avenue cars to 36th and M Streets. N. W.. where connection is made with the Old Dominion Rail- way, the direct route to the Falls. COURTESY and ATTENTION. Company's trainmen are noted for their courtesy to its patrons and will be glad to give the necessary information to direct strangers. TTie lines of The Capital Traction Company traverse the City from end to end and pass its historic monu- ments and through its finest sections, and there is no better way to view the City. Remember to take the GREEN Cars of The Capital Traction Company i k t .>r"'t ■ *" m gJU^^s' - -^•'' -^ ■ hI ■BIF'' ^^ JH 1 1^ ^^_^ II Vvi/lf ^ ^^^BS 11 B '«re Bl B ^^^^gg 0^2 ^^^H IS a ^ MT. VERNON via "THE HISTORIC ROUTE" The Ideal Trip Competent Lecturer on Each Train ROUND TRIP 50 CENTS Tickets Permit Stop-off at Historic Alexandria TERMINUS 12th & PENNA AVE., OPPOSITE P. O. DEPl. SUMMER SCHEDULE HOURLY 10 A. M TO 3P.M ,||TM STREET WINTER SCHEDULE HOURLY 10 A. M TO 2P. M J I RAND McNALLY Washington Guide TO THE -— 7^?r CITY AND ENVIRONS WITH / MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS RAND McNALLY & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS NEW YORK CHICAGO Copyright, 1916 by Rand McNally & Co. AUG -5 1916 '^ (^ *"^0\ ?" / \ .X -.^ Belbeiogfey / -\ ^t^; 1 j^ V I SChevJfc ^ Tk yy-(j A 7 vT S ( v^ 7 TeonallytovS 1 S 3! I^Po/w6rth f|C"'fakop ^'^ N. "'' Pfenros^Jjk-. /^ ^ V ^ WASHINGTON AND VICINITY Scale o< Miles £/ectnc Railroads Steam Railroads Streets and floacts WASHINGTON, D. C. Hotel Gordon ^ ^^ -^^^ Proprietor Sixteenth and I Sts. The Hotel Gordon, containiiiK one liuii- dred and fifty rooma and fifty private baths, is situated on the corner of IGth and I Sts., and is considered the most beautifully located hotel in WasliiiiK- ton. It is within two minutes' walk of the White House, Treasury, State, War and Navy De- partments, is sur- rounded by the beautiful homes of foreign Ambassa- dors and American Statesmen, and is easily accessible to car lines for all parts of the city. The building is a modern six-slory structiue, and among the many conveniences are Long Distance Tclctihones in every room. Steam ileal, Billiard ]{oom and Barber Shop. Send for booklet. Special attention shown to ladies traveling alone. European Plan, $1.50 Per Day and Up. American Plan, $3.00 Per Day and Up. METROPOLITAN HOTEL Penn. Ave., Sixth and C Sts. WASHINGTON, D. C. One of tlie oldest and best-known hostelries of the Capital City, the Metrojiolitan has recently passed to new inanaKCment and $;3r),()f)0 have been spent in improvements, modernizing it com- pletely. Its location on Pennsylvania Avenue, half way between Capitol and White House, makes it exceptionally convenient and attractive to the tourist as well as the man on business bejit. UunniiiK water in all rooms. Hates exceedincly reasonable for IIh' hiijh-class service .-ilTorded. American Plan, $2..')0 to $4.00 per day; European Plan, SI.IM) to .•<2.."iU i)ir dav. Send for booklet. T. A. McKEE, Manager. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE CONTENTS Washington, D. C. . Arriving at Washing- ton, D. C. . . . Baggage Transfer Facilities Carriage and Taxicab Facilities Street Cars . Steai\isiiip Lines' Piers Places of Amusement Union Station . Railroads .... Sight-Seeing . Hotels ..... Telegraph Headquar- ters ..... Post Office Time Ball .... Places of Interest . Pennsylvania Avenue Mt. Vernon Washington Monu- ment Arlington National Cemetery PAGE II 14 14 15 15 21 22 22 25 25 25 26 26 26 27 27 42 51 55 64 66 7 7 77 I II 116 116 Cemeteries Parks, Circles and Statues .... Libraries and Art Galleries Library of Congress . Corcoran Gallery of Art Educational . Smithsonian Institu- tion Colleges, Academies AND Private Schools 129 Clubs and Societies. 130 Embassiesand Legations 132 The White House . 133 Official Etiquette at THE Capital . . 139 The Capitol . . . 145 Executive Depart- ments 178 Pan-American Union 200 Proahnent Churches 201 Environs . . . 203 RAND M cNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Key to Guide Map of Washington on Pages 8 and 9 J3 14 Office of the Embassy, Turkey Office of the Legation, Peru Scottish Rite Temple Office of the Legation, Bolivia Cairo Apartments Office of the Legation, Argentine Office of the Legation, Switzer- land Office of the Legation, Denmark Office of the Legation, Paraguay Office of the Legation, Belgium Office of the Embassy, Italy Carnegie Institution Office of the Legation, Haiti Office of the Legation, Guate- mala Office of the Legation, Costa Rica Office of the Embassy, Austria- Hungary Office of the Embassy, Great Britain Office of the Legation, Sweden Office of the Legation, Uruguay Office of the Legation, Siam Office of the Embassy, Germany Office of the Embassy, Japan Office of the Legation, Panama Address of Embassy, Russia Hotel Grafton Weather Bureau Office of Legation, Nicaragua & Portugal Office of Legation, Venezuela Office of the Embassy, Brazil Department of Justice Cochran Hotel Dewey Hotel Hamilton Hotel Office of the Legation, Chile Office of the Legation, Colombia Public Library Convention Hall Columfjia Institution for The Deaf & Dumb Gonzaga College Office of the Embassy, Mexico Hotel Bellcvue Hotel Gordon Office of the Legation, Cuba Luther Statue Department of Commerce & Census Bureau Hotel Bancroft Albany Hotel New Richmond Hotel Shoreham Hotel Office of the Legation, Domin- ican Republic Hudson Hotel Masonic Temple Government Printing Office Post Office Department Linc(jin Hotel Rush Statue Belasco Theater Hotel Powhatan Y. M. C. A. Stale, War & Navy Building White House (Executive Man- sion) Department of Treasury 63 64 6S 00 07 68 09 70 71 72 73 74 75 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 1 1 1 I 12 113 114 1 15 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 Keith's Theater Woodward & Lothrop, Depart- ment Store Department of the Interior & Patent Office Pension Office Hotel Harris City Post Office Union Station Casino Theater General Land Office Gayety Theater Ford's Theater Lincoln Museum Columbia Theater National Theater Ebbitt House Department of Labor WiUard Hotel Civil Service Commission Knickerbocker Hotel Emergency Hospital Navy Building Concoran Gallery of Art Grand Hotel Poll's Theater Sterling Hotel Raleigh Hotel Harrington Hotel Academy of Music Police Court City Hall & Courthouse Continental Hotel Cosmos Theater American Theater Washington Utilities Co. Ry. Station Municipal Building Continental Hall (D. A. R.) U. S. Naval Museum of Hygiene Pan American Union Farmers Market Majestic Theater District Armory Building (N. G. D. C.) Center Market Metropolitan Hotel St. James Hotel National Hotel Hotel Driscoll Senate Office Building Capitol Botanical Garden Bartholdi Fountain Grant Memorial National Museum (New) Department of Agriculture Washington Monument Public Baths Lincoln Memorial Smithsonian Institution National Museum (Old) Army Medical Museum Bureau of Fisheries Library of Congress House Office Building Public Health Service Coast & Geodetic Survey Congress Hall Hotel BurOau of Engraving & Printing RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 130 Naval Hospital 143 131 U. S. Marine Barracks 144 132 United States Navy Yard 14s 133 Sewage Pumping Station T46 134 Arizona Hotel 147 13s Brunswick Hotel 148 136 Capital Hotel 149 137 Vendome Hotel 150 138 Occidental Hotel 151 139 Rochester Hotel 152 140 Stag Hotel 153 141 Stoneleigh Court (Apartments) 154 14 T Winston Hotel 155 New Varnum Hotel Congressional (Apartments') Commercial Hotel George Washington Hotel Fritz Reuter Hotel Logan (Apartments) Manhattan Hotel Portland (Apartments) Mac Lennan Hotel Atlantic Hotel Old Capitol Prison Emancipation Monument Cosmos Club WASHINGTON, D. C. HOTEL DRISCOLL Facing the U. S. Capitol and Grounds ^2MliP^ A High-Class Hotel. Faces U. S. Capitol. Near Union Station. ■**■ Amidst Show^ Places. Music. Baths Gratis. Long Distance Telephone. Electric Light and Elevator. Screens and Awnings. Running Water and Electric Fans in Rooms. MEALS A LA CARTE OR TABLE D'HOTE CLUB BREAKFASTS PRIVATE GARAGE American Plan from $2.50 European Plan from $1.00 Write for Folder and Map S F. P. ORBELLO. Manager ^^4UBe CD LZJC^ □ DQ EJUUr" BO r 14' d42J';:JLa|, V^ Ic:^'^! ?^^ iaz:c:^^sgaczDa[i]Lj^g?ei ■ ^^ i'llS _ ^ L^^ vA^ D lilt-, r- ir , fe-vl ZO 1 1 -, ^--J MULIUDLJi!:: jauO ,056] no luaaw^S'h^ "3D >DSG[J ■me i2^QnDDp[:]^.gnn(7i : 0:^164: '-U^>-i I II I n rn r"!> I 1 ^i ,--, ,—. , — iH — I [:!>,cz=i ^^J 1—1 »3a u n .[iZDD^t^noQO ido^'^ k\]a 131 IWODODg 1 □ □ Qj'tfii^-a □ a □ □ 1^1 dG@a iSl CU /paaDG //.i-ir -ir ifj FIREPROOF EUROPEAN PLAN Hotel Continental Washington, D. C. One Block from Union Station A. W. Chaffee, Mgr. '*The Most Satisfactory Hotel in Washington" RATES One Person ■ Two Persons One Person ■ Two Persons WITH PRIVATE BATH $1.50 and up 2.50 and up S2.00 and up 3.00 and up RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 11 WASHINGTON, D. C. Washington Rotunda of Capitol Page 158 The City of Washington and the Dis- trict of Columbia are co-extensive. Area, 60 sq. miles of land and 10 sq. miles of water. Population 1914 (estimated by the Bureau of Census), white 250,039; colored 101,339; total 353.378. The city proper now covers an area about 14 miles in circumference. There are about 250 iniles of streets, ranging from 80 to 120 feet in width and 65 miles of ave- nues, ranging in width from 120 to 160 feet. Article I, Section 8 of the Constitution, adopted 1787 by Congress and ratified by the States provides: "Congress shall have power to exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever over such district (not exceeding 10 miles square) as may, by cession of particular states, and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of government of the United States, and to exercise like authority over all places purchased, by the consent of the legislature of the state in which the same shall be, for the erection of forts, magazines, arsenals, dockyards, and other needful buildings." Maryland in 1788, and Virginia, in 1789, passed acts, each to cede 10 miles square for the seat of government of the United States. (In 1846, on the complaint of the city of Alexandria, Va. that it had suffered from the neglect of Congress, the Virginia portion of the District was retroceded to that state.) June 28th, 1790, the Senate resolved: "On the river Potomac, at some place between the mouths of the Eastern Branch and Connogcheague be, and the same is hereby accepted, for the permanent seat of government of the United States." July 9th, same year, the House concurred and on July 1 6th, following. President Washing- ^'''"'''crpitor'"^ °' ton signed the bill, which also provided Page 149 12 RAND McNALLY WAvSHINGTON GUIDE South from State Department Page 51 that three commissioners be appointed by the President to survey and define the Hniits of the district. The Comrnissioners were empowered to "purchase or accept" land on the "Eastern side of the Potomac"; the President was "authorized and requested to accept grants of money" to pay for lands and buildings; and, it was further provided that on the "first Monday in December, 1800, the seat of government of the United States be transferred to the district and place aforesaid." Washington, in his proclamation of April 30, 1791, named the place Federal City. September 9th of same year the Commissioners decided it should be named : "Cily of Washington in the Territory of Columbia"; also that "the streets be named alphabetically one way and numerically the other, the former to be divided into north and south, and the latter into east and west numbers from the Capitol." And so they are. The street plan of Washington, as originally laid out, made the Capitol its centre. The city is divided into four sections, — N. E., S. E., N. W., and S. W.— by three streets (known respectively as N. Capitol, E. Capitol, and S. Capitol, and the Mall) which extend on lines drawn due north and south and cast and west through the center of the Capitol. In addition to the streets laid out at right angles there are avenues which extend across the city in lines diagonal to the lettered and numbered streets. Lettered and numl)ered streets and avenues retain the same name in each section, their exact location being indicated by the proper suffix, as for example: D. St., N. E. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 13 means it is in the northeast section. Each section has its own sets of numbers for the houses, arranged upon the decimal system — loo numbers for each block. This is repeated in a direction away from each of the Capitol streets. The growth of the city toward the Northwest has been so great, in proportion to the development of the other sections, that in common usage an address without a suffix means it is located in the N. W. section. This practice is observed in this guide. The local government of the District of Columbia is a munici- pal corporation having jurisdiction over the territory which "was ceded by the State of Maryland to the Congress of the United States for the permanent seat of the Gov-ernment of the United States." The government is administered by a board of three com- missioners, appointed by the President, having in general equal powers and duties. The coinmissioners are in a general way vested with jurisdic- tion covering all the ordinary features of munici]3al government. North from Washington Monument Page 51 The Municipal Building, is at 14th St. & Pennsylvania Ave. It is a beautiful white marble structure 243 ft. x iq6 ft. and cost, exclusive of site, nearly $2,000,000. In this building are the offices of the District Commissioners, the Police, Fire and Health Depts. Congress makes the laws governing the district and pays half of the Municipal expense as an offset against non assessment for taxes of United States property. 14 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE South from Washington Monument Page 51 ARRIVING AT WASHINGTON All steam railroad trains arrive at and depart from Union Station, Massachusetts, and Delaware Aves. Steamboats arrive at and depart (nnn 7th St. Wharf. Incoming Baggage. On all inijjortant trains, when approaehinj^^ the city, a responsible uniformed solicitor passes throuj^h the coaches. He will take your checks, ^'ive you a receipt, and deliver your baj^j^a^^e to any part of Washin^^on. Payment may be made in advance or on receipt of the baj^gaj^e. Ordinary baggage, such as a steamer trunk, may be taken with you on cabs, carriages, or taxicabs. Hotels send for your baj.^j.^age promptly. Caution. Never give up your checks to any one out a unifomied train soHcitor, or a regular office agent, or a porter of either the transportation comi)any holding the baggage or of the transfer company to which you mean to intrust it. Always take a receipt. If you yourself claim your baggage, never give ujj your checks to any person, except the unifonned baggagemen of the railway or steamboat line by which you have traveled. If you are going to a hotel, or expect to meet or visit friends residing in the city, it would be RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 15 best probably to keep your checks and let the hotel employees or your friends arrange for the delivery of your baggage. Outgoing Baggage. By previous arrangement, an express- man will call at your house and take your baggage to the station. The transfer company will check your baggage from the house to your destination in any part of the country, so that you need have no trouble with it at the railway station. You must have bought your railway ticket in advance. Carriages and Taxicabs for hire will be found at the railroad station and principal hotels. When engaging a conveyance a distinct understanding should be had as to the charge, so that there may be no dispute about the payment. STREET CARS Capital Traction Company Georgetown — Union Station Line begins at 8th & F Sts. N. E. and extends, via Pennsylvania Ave. to the Acqueduct Bridge at Georgetown, passing on the way most of the public buildings, including the Capitol, Union Station and the \Vhite House; also most of the important hotels. East from Washington Monument Page 31 IG RAND McNALLY \V A S H I N G T O X GUIDE Fourteenth St. Line. Beginning at Union Station, runs via Pennsylvania Ave. over the same route as the George- town-Union Station Line to the Treasury, thence out 14th St. to Decatur St. Beginning also at the Navy Yard Gate, another branch of this line runs over Sth St. cast to Pennsylvania Ave. and joins the above at Peace Monument, running out 14th St. to Piney Branch Road at the old Brightwood Race Track. New Jersey Ave. Line. Passes Union Station, running southeast, passing the Capitol and Library and terminating at the Navy Yard Gate. This line to the northwest i*uns to Rock Creek, via New Jersey Ave. & U St., connecting with the 7th St., 14th St., and Chevy Chase Lines. West from Washington Monument Page 51 A Line extends from the Arsenal and the Steamboat Whar\'cs the entire length of 7th St., passing the Center Market, and through the shopping district to the old city boundary (Florida Ave.), thence west, via U St., & Connecticut Ave. to Chevy Chase, one of Washington's important suburbs, thence to Chevy Chase Lake, Md., passing Zoological Park and Cleveland Park, another of Washington's important suburbs. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 17 A Line of this Company also runs at frequent intervals, to Chevy Chase, from the Treasury, via 14th & U Sts. to Connecticut Ave. extended. Pennsylvania Ave. Line of this Company runs the whole length of Pennsylvania Ave., starting at the Acqueduct Bridge at 36th & M Sts., Georgetown, passing most of the goverimient departments and prominent hotels, and terminating at the Anacostia Branch of the Potomac River at the Bridge crossing said branch. Some of the cars of this service are also operated from the Acqueduct Bridge to the Navy Yard Gate. Half of the cars of this line are operated over what is known as the old F & G Sts. route and are deflected from Pennsyl- vania Ave. at 26th St., N. W., and at 17th St., N. W. Florida Ave. Line. Operates from the Navy Yard Gate, via 8th St. & Florida Ave. to 7th St. & Florida Ave. Washington Railway and Electric Company Operates thirteen different lines. Its line to Glen Echo (summer amusement park) and Cabin John Bridge affords one of the most delightful excursions out of Washington. Its cars leave the terminus at 36th & Prospect Sts. in Georgetown H Street — Masonic Temple in Distance Page 34 18 RAXD McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE (now West Washington), the westerly end of the F St. Line, and taking a high course overlooking the river valley, which becomes much narrower and more gorge-like above the city, with the Virginia banks very steep, rocky and broken by quarries. The rails are laid through the woods, and gradually descend to the bank of the canal which skirts the foot of the bluff. About three miles above Georgetown is the Chain Bridge, so called because the earliest bridge here, where the river for some two miles is confined within a nar- row, swift and deep chan- nel on the Virginia side, was made of suspended chains. The lofty bank is broken here by a ravine making a convenient place for several roads to meet and cross the river. The bluffs above it were crowned with strong forts, for this was one of the prin- cii)al approaches to Wash- ington. A mile and a half alcove the Chain Bridge the river is a third of a mile wide again, and dash- ing over black rocks and ledges is the series of rapids called the Little Falls of the Potomac. The wild beauty of the locality makes it a favorite one for picnicking parties, and bass fishing is always excellent. The river has pretty banks to Cabin Run, where the fine arch of the celebrated bridge gleams through the trees. The remainder of the ride on the Marjdand side (5 miles) is through a wild, wooded region at the edge of the canal and river, which is again narrow, deep, and broken by islands flooded at high water, with high, ravine-cut banks. This is a favorite ])lacc with Washingtonians for fishing with rod and fly from the banks; Daniel Wel)ster often came here for this purpose. The Great Falls of the Potomac are a series of bold cascades forming a drop of 80 ft. within a distance of a few hundred yards. Naval MuiiutnenL Pennsylvania Ave. and 1st Street Page 28 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 19 The appearance of the falls has been considerably modified, and probably enhanced, by the structures of the city water- works, for this is the source of Washington's water supply. The water is conveyed to the city through a brick conduit, which runs along the top of the Maryland bank, and is overlaid by the macadamized driveway called the Conduit Road. This work of engineering meets its first serious difficulty at Cabin John Run, where a stone arch leaps across the ravine in a single span of 220 feet. The Amusement resort at Great Falls on the Virginia side is reached by the Washington & Old Dominion Ry. from 36th & M Sts., N. W. Georgetown-Lincoln Park Line. Operates between 14th & E. Capitol Sts. and Cabin John Bridge, passing the Library, Capitol, Union Station, Pension Office, Patent Office and Dupont Circle, and runs through Georgetown to Cabin John Bridge transferring to all north and south bound lines of this Company. Connecticut Ave. Line. Operates between the Capitol and Mt. Pleasant, passing the City Hall, Pension Office, Patent Office, Dupont Circle, to Mt. Pleasant, transferring to all north and south bound lines of this Company. East Washington Line. Operates between 13th & D Sts., N. E., and Mt. Pleasant, passing the Union Station, Pension Office, Patent Office, Dupont Circle to Mt. Pleasant, trans- ferring to all north and south bound lines of this Company. Columbia Line. Operates between 15th St. & N. Y. Ave., District Line and Kenilworth, passing the Public Library, Government Printing Office, and connecting with trains for Chesapeake Beach at the District Line. Transfers to all north and south bound lines of this Company, but only when entering the city. Washington, Baltimore & Ann- apolis Line. Is also operated betwecii 14th St. & N. Y. Ave. and the Dis- trict Line. Trans- ic.u'^^^j o'c/"^. . 15th and G Streets ters to all north and Page 33 20 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Union Station, Massachusetts Ave< south bound lines of this Company but only when entering the city. North Capitol Line. Operates between 15th & G Sts., N, W. and Brookland, D. C, via G St., Massachusetts Ave. and N. Capitol St. passing the Patent Office, Pension Office, the Washington City Post Office, and Catholic University. Trans- fers to all east and west bound lines of this Company. Maryland Line. Operates between 1 5th & G Sts., Eckington, District Line, Rivcrdalc, Bcrwyn and Laurel, passing through Mt. Ranier, Hyattsvillc and College Park, Md., where the Maryland Agricultural College is located. This line transfers to all north and south bound lines of this Company. Ninth St. Brightwood Line. Operates between the Steam- boat Wharves (Water & M Sts., S. W.), Soldiers Home, Bright- wood, Takoma Park, District Line and Forest Glen, passing the Public Library, the American League Bascl:)all Park and the Walter Reed Anny Hospital. This line transfers to all cast and west bound lines of this Company. Fourth St, Line. Operates between the Steamboat Wharves, (Water & M Sts., S. W.) and Georgia Ave. & W. St., passing the Agricultural Department, Bureau of Engraving and Print- ing, Washington Monument and the Howard University. This line transfers to all intersecting lines of this Company. Eleventh St. Line. Operates between nth and Monroe Sts., Anacostia and Congress Heights. Southl)ound cars alternate at 9th and F Sts. to nm via Union Station and Center Market. Cars via Union Station pass the Pension Office, Union Station, Capitol, and Library of Congress. Cars via RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 21 Center jMarket pass the Government Hospital for the Insane. Northbound cars alternate at ist and E Sts., S. E., to run via Union Station and Center Market. Cars via Union Station pass the Library of Congress, Capitol, Union Station, Pen- sion Office, contin- ue out G St., pass the Patent Office, up I ith St. to Mon- roe. Cars via the Center Market con- tinue past the Market up 9th St. to G, turn at G, up to nth, up nth to Monroe. The line passes the Garfield Hospital both ways. It transfers to intersecting lines. Tennallytown & F St. Line. Operates between Somerset, and 5th and F Sts., and Somerset, 13th and D Sts., N. E., via Wisconsin Ave., through Georgetown, Connecticut Ave. and P St., passing the Union Station when running to and from 13th and D Sts., N. E. This line transfers to north and sou^h bound cars of this Company. Washington & Great Falls Line. Operates between Great Falls and 5th and F Sts., N. E., over the Tennallytown and F St. Line to Wisconsin Ave. and Bradley Lane, and thence to Great Falls. This line transfers to all north and south bound lines of this Company. Rockville Line. Operates between Wisconsin Ave. and M St. and Rockville, Md., passing through Tennallytown and Riggs Bank Building 1503 Pennsylvania Ave. Connecticut Ave. Bridge Page 54 22 RAND M c N A L L Y W A S H I N G T O X GUIDE Somerset. This line transfers to the Georgetown Line at Wis- consin Ave. and O and P Sts. and to the Massachusetts Ave. Line at Macomb, Ga. Washington Interurban Line. Operates between 15th and H Sts., N. E., and Bcrwyn, Md., passing through Bladensburg by the National Training School in Bladensburg Road, H3'attsvillc, and Rivcrdale. Massachusetts Ave. Line. Operates between Wisconsin Ave. and Macomb St. to and on Massachusetts Ave. to the District Line, passing the American University. Transfers to Wisconsin Ave. Line. STEAMSHIP LINES' PIERS Mt. Vernon & Marshall Hall, ft. 7th St., S. W. Norfolk & Washington, ft. 7th St., S. W. Potomac & Chesapeake, ft. Sth St., S. W. Maryland, Delaware & Virginia Railway & Steamer Co., ft. 7th St., S. W. PLACES OF AMUSEMENT Belasco, Lafayette Sq. Columbia, 12th and F Sts. Cosmos, 919-921 Pennsylvania Ave. Gayety, 511 9th St. Keith's, 15th and G Sts. Majestic, 9th and C Sts. National, E St. between 13th and 14th Sts. Poli's, Pennsylvania Ave. between 14th and 15th Sts. UNION STATION Intersection of Massachusetts and Delaware Aves. This mammoth station was built in accord with the great scheme for beautifying and devel- oping the city of Washington and its outlying parks. Rec- ognizing that the new station is the portal of the capital, the prevailing motif has been that of the tri- um])hal arches of Rome. It is entirely of granite, 620 feet ^ . , long and from 6=; to Columbus Memorial ' - . - . , " In Front of Union Station 120 it. Ul llClgllt. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 23 The general waiting room, 220 ft. long, 130 ft. wide and 90 ft. high, is modeled after the Baths of Diocletian. The concourse is 760 ft. long. There are 33 tracks in the station, 20 of which terminate on the level of the waiting rooms. The remaining 13 are 20 ft. below the level of the waiting rooms, and 9 of these continue under the station building into a tunnel which runs beneath a portion of Capitol Hill and leads to the through lines southward. The arched ceiling covering the concourse exceeds in size anything ever built for a similar purpose. The general decorative features of the main entrance consist of six massive columns supporting the main arches. Upon pedestals on the tops of these columns are statues 18 ft. high; those on the west side of the entrance representing Prometheus (fire) and Thales (electricity) ; those on the east side, Ceres (agriculture), and Archimedes (mechanics). Freedom and Imagination are depicted by central figures. Those on the west side represent two great forces connected with the operation of railroads; those on the east side owe much of their development and wealth to railroads. The central figures typify the atmosphere of freedom in which the inventive General Waiting Room, Union Station Page 22 24 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 1 Hi- Hi li ---^^^^^ \ .*i ik ¥ ' i; J 1 llllfll M'iliU!'' 1 fn ^J|v^3By^«|||B .%&ia^^^^| Concourse Union Station Page 22 imagination has been aljlc to aecomplish such [j:rcat results. The following inscri])tions, selected by President Eliot of Harvard University, may be seen in the panels of the se\-eral attics: State Entrance, east elevation : Welcome the coming Speed the purLinj^ guest. Virtue alone is sweet society It keeps the key to all Heroic hearts and t)pens you A welcome in them all. State Entrance, south elevation: Let all things thou aimest at be Thy Country's — thy God's — and Truth's. Be noble and the nobleness that Lies in other men — sleeping, but Never dead — will rise in majesty To meet thine own. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 25 Carriage porch, south elevation: He that would bring home the Wealth of the Indies must carry The wealth of the Indies with him. So it is in traveling — a man Must carry knowledge with him If he would bring home knowledge. The cost was about $iS, 000,000, of which amount the United States Goveniment appropriated about $5,000,000. RAILROADS Atlantic Coast Line, Union Station. Baltimore & Ohio, Union Station. Chesapeake & Ohio, Union Station. Norfolk & Western, Union Station. Pennsylvania, Union Station. Seaboard Air Line, Union Station. Southern Railway, Union Station. Washington Southern, Union Station, SIGHT-SEEING Sight-Seeing. Automobiles, run oa regular schedules, provide comfortable and convenient facilities for viewing places in and around Washington. These tours are conducted by lecturers who point out and explain the features along the way. The rates are reasonable. HOTELS Albany (Apartments), 17th & H Driscoll, ist & B Sts. Sts. Dumbarton, Pennsylvania Ave. bet. Atlantic, 6th St. & Pennsylvania 6th & 7th Sts. Ave. Ebbitt House, 14th & F Sts. Arizona, 310 C St. Everett, H near i8th St. Bancroft, i8th & H Sts. Fritz Reuter, Pennsylvania Ave. & Bcllevue, 15th & I Sts. 4K St. Brunswick, 235 Pennsylvania Ave. George Washington, 15th vSt. & Buckingham, 920 15th St. New York Ave. Cairo (Apartments), i6th & Q Sts. Gordon, i6th & I St. Capital, 3d St. & Pennsylvania Ave. Grafton, Connecticut Ave. & De Cochran, 14th & K Sts. Sales St. Commercial, Pennsylvania Ave. & Grand Hotel, 15th St. & -Pennsyl- 7th St. vania Ave. Congress Hall, New Jersey Ave. Hamilton, 14th & K Sts. near B St., S. K. Harrington, nth Sc E Sts. Congressional (Apartments), 100 E. Harris, 15 Massachusetts Ave. Capitol vSt. Harvard, 6th St. & Pennsylvania Continental, N. Capitol near D St. Ave. Dewey, 1330 L St. Hudson, 1321 H St. 26 RAND ]\I c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Knickerbocker (Apartments), 17th Powhattan, i8th St. & Pennsyl- St. & N. Y. Ave. vania Ave. Lincoln loth & H Sts. Raleigh, 12th St. & Pennsvlvania Logan (Apartments), Iowa Circle. ^y^> MacLennan (Apartments), 715 13th Ri,hn,ond, 17th & H Sts. Manhattan, 9th near F St. Rochester, 910 E. St. MetropoHtan, Pennsylvania Ave. Shoreham, 15th & H Sts. near 6th St. Stag, 608 9th St. Mount Vernon, 487 Pennsylvania 0*1- ^1 p -c c*. ^yg ' T / J Sterlmg, 13th & E Sts. National, 6th St. & Pennsylvania St. James, 6th St. & Pennsylvania Ave. Ave. New Varnum, New Jersey Ave. & Stoneleigh Court (Apartments), C St., S. E. Connecticut Ave. near K St. New Willard, 14th St. & Pennsyl- Stratford (Apartments), 14th & vania Ave. Monroe Sts. Occidental, 141 1 Pennsylvania Ave. Vendome, Pennsylvania Ave. & 3d Park, 1015 I Street St. ■ Portland (Apartments), Vermont Winston, ist St. near Pennsylvania Ave. & 14th St. Ave. TELEGRAPH HEADQUARTERS Western Union, 15th and F Sts. Postal Telegraph, 1345 Pennsylvania Ave. POST OFFICE District Post Office is adjacent to Union Station and the Government Printing Office. Ground and ])iiilding cost $3,450,189. A part of the foundation of the building is 50 feet below the first level, and the footings of many of the columns are 20 feet square. This building is directly connected with the Union Station and is equipped with expensive and effective mail-handling apparatus. Inscriptions on the building are, V. Over East Entrance: Carrier of News and Knowledge Instrument of Trade and Industry Promoter of Mutual Acquaintance Of Peace and Good-Will among Men and Nations. Over West Entrance: Messenger of Sympathy and Love Servant of Parted Friends Consoler of the Lonely Bond of the Scattered Family Enlarger of Common Life. The Time Ball on the State, War and Navy Building. The time ])all is three feet in diameter, and is made of coi)i)er. The signal is sent from the Na\'al Observatory, on George- town Heights between Massachusetts and Wisconsin Avcs., and the transmitting clock begins at 11:55 ^- "i- to beat the RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 27 seconds, automatically leaving out the 29, 55, 56, 57, 58 and 59th seconds until the last moment before noon, when the 29th, and 50th to 59th seconds are omitted. During this lo-second interval when there is no signal passing over the wires, switches are thrown in connecting the mechanism for automatically dropping the time ball. When the next beat at 12 :oo passes over the wire, the releasing lever allows the ball to drop and it is "Noon by the North Clock, Noon by the South Clock, etc." The same signal goes out over all telegraph lines east of the Rockies, and is also sent broadcast by the Arlington Radio Station. At 10 :oo p. m. the signal goes out by wireless from Arlington. PLACES OF INTEREST Pennsylvania Ave., the backbone of Washington, is four miles and a half long, but is broken by the Capitol grounds and by the Treasury and White House grounds. Between these two breaks it extends one and a half miles in length and 160 feet wide, expanding at short intervals into spaces or parks caused by the angular intersection of other streets. A walk up "The Avenue" begins at the western gates of the Capitol, where First St., N. W., curves across its rounded Soldiers Home Page 61 28 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Continental Memorial Hall 17th and D Streets Page 64 front. Pennsyl- vania Ave. strikes northwest; a few paces to the left, Maryland Ave. diverges south- west, past the National Museum to Long Bridge. The circles at the beginning of these streets are filled with two con- spicuous monu- ments — the Naval or Peace Memorial at Pennsylvania Ave., and the Garfield at Maryland Ave. The Naval Monument was erected in 187S from contribu- tions by officers and men of that service, "in memor\' of the officers, seamen, and marines of the United States Navy who fell in defense of the Union and liberty of their country, 1 861-1865." It was designed from a sketch by Admiral David D. Porter, elaborated by Franklin Simmons, at Rome, and is of pure Carrara marble, resting upon an elaborate granite foundation designed by Edward Clark. America is sorrowfully narrating the loss of her defenders, while History records on her tablet: "They died that their country might live." Below these figures on the western plinth of the mon- ument is a figure of Victory, with an infant Neptune, and Mars, holding aloft a laurel wreath, and on the reverse is a figure of Peace offering the olive branch. The cost was $41,000, half of which was given by Congress for the pedestal and its two statues. The Garfield Statue was erected by his comrades of the Army of the Cumberland, and unveiled in 18S7, to commemo- rate the virtues and popularity of President James A. Gar- field, whose assassination, six years before, had horrified the whole country. The statesman stands upon a massive pedestal, in the attitude of an orator; nearer the base of the statue three figures represent three phases of his career — vStudent, soldier, and pu1)]icist. Designed by J. Q. A. Ward, and erected at an expense of $65,000, half of which was a])pro- ])riated l)y Congress to pay for the pedestal and its three bronze figures. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 29 In the triangle between these two avenues lies the Botanical Garden. It long ago outlived its scientific use- fulness, and has never attained excellence as a public pleasure- garden or park. The illuminated fountain in the center of the grounds is the one by Bartholdi, so greatly admired at the Centennial Exposition, 1876. It cost $6,000. The buildings improve as we proceed. On the N. W. Corner of 4>^ St., now John Marshall Place, stands Fritz-Reuter Hotel, fonnerly Police Headquarters, where Chas. J. Guiteau was confined, prior to removal to D. C. Jail. A few doors north on John Marshall Place stands the Metropolitan M. E. Church where the late President McKinley worshiped. At 6th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. is the National Hotel, whose history goes back to the early decades of the century, for in the time of Clay and Webster it was filled with the leading spirits in the government, who caused many memorable things to happen beneath its roof. Just across 6th St. in the next block, is the Metropolitan Hotel, covering the site of the first important hotel in Washington, the "Indian Queen," which was the scene of the greatest festivities at the capital during the first third of the century. 7th St. is the chief north-and-south artery of traffic. Here Louisiana Ave. extends northeastward to Judiciary Sq.; and its diagonal crossing of Pennsylvania Ave. leaves a triangle, upon which stands the equestrian statue of Hancock, Maj.-Gen'l Winfield S. (1824-1886.) By Henry J. EUicott, erected in 1896. Cost $50,000. Breveted for meritorious conduct in the Mexican War. Brigadier-General Public Library Vernon Square, Massachusetts and New York Aves« Page 36 30 RAND M c N A L L Y W A S H 1 N CI T O N GUIDE Cabin John Bridge Page 206 of volunteers i86i. Reported by McClcllan as "Hancock the Superb." Fought at Williamsburg, Antietam, Fredericksburg, Chan- cellorsville, Gettysburg, Wilderness, Spottsylvania, and Cold Harbor. In charge of Washington after the assassination of Linclon, and under his command Booth's accomplices were tried and executed. "Hancock stands as the most con- spicuous figure of all the general officers who did not exercise a separate com- mand his name was never mentioned as having committed a blunder for which he was responsible." — General Grant On the south side of the avenue, stretching from 7th to 9th St. is Center Market, one of the most spacious, convenient, well-furnished, and withal picturesque establishments of its kind in the country. Between the market and Pennsylvania Ave. is a park space. Here stands the statue of Rawlins, Maj.-Gen. John A. Grant's Chief of Staff, and later his Secretary of War. It is of bronze, after designs by J. Bailey, cast in Philadelphia, from rebel cannon captured by Grant's armies, was erected in 1874, and paid for ($13,000) by friends of RawHns, who died here in 1869. At 9th St. another north-and-south artery of street-car traffic is crossed. loth St. is historic. At the left, past the market, is the principal entrance to the Smithsonian grounds. The open space here is decorated with Plassman's Statue of Franklin, Benjamin. It represents Franklin in his court dress as Minister to the Court of France, and was ])resented to the city in 1889 by Stilson Hutchins, an editor and writer of wide reputation. The assassination of President Lincoln occurred in the old Ford's Theater on loth vSt. between E and F Sts., and the Iniilding made sacred by the event is still standing. Ford's Theater, wliich during the Civil War was the lead- ing theater in the city, has long been occupied by the Govern- ment as offices. Here, on the night of April 14, 1865, President Lincoln, with members of his family and staff, went, by special RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 31 invitation to witness a play in which the actor J. Wilkes Booth had a principal part. During an intermission, Booth entered the box in which the President sat, shot him in the back of his head with a revolver, and then leaped to the stage. At the same time, other assassins made attempts upon the life of the cabinet officers — that upon Secretary Wm. H. Seward nearly proving successful. Booth leaped to the stage, and, with the other assassins, made his escape, but all were soon recaptured, In-ought to Washington (all except Booth, who was killed in Maryland), and incarcerated in the mil- itary penitentiary at the Arsenal, where four of the leaders of the conspiracy were tried and hung. Ford's Theatre was at once closed by order of the Government, which purchased the building in 1866. It was remodeled and appropriated to the uses of the Record and Pension Division of the War Department, and on June 9, 1893, suffered a collapse of the floors, which caused the death and maiming of many clerks. The house in which Lin- coln died (No. 516 loth St., between E and F) contains the Oldroyd Lincoln me- morial collection, begun by O. H. Oldroyd, in i860, and now comprising three thou- sand objects connected with or relating to the martyred President. Among them are the following: Family Bible in which Lincoln wrote his name in boyhood ; log from the old Lincoln home; stand made from logs of house in which Lin- coln Hvcd, 1832-36; rail split by Lincoln and John Hanks in 1830 (with affida- vit by Hanks) ; discharge given to one of his men by 10th between I and" Streets Captain A. Lincoln, Black Page 30 Hawk War, 1832; picture 32 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE of vSprinj^eld house; flag carried in Lincoln and Hamlin campaign; office chair in which Lincoln sat when he drafted his first Cabinet; farewell address to neighbors; articles of furniture from the Springfield home; autograph letters; life- mask and cast of hands by L. W. Volk; bill of the play "Our American Cousin " ; 250 funeral sermons; 63 marches and dirges; 263 portraits, including the earliest known; 209 medals; the spur and flag which played a prominent part in Booth's leap from the box in the theater. Corner of nth St. is The Evening Star, opposite which, filling the whole square from i ith to 12th St. is the Post Office Department. Corner of 12th St. stands the lofty Raleigh Hotel. On the opposite corner is the terminus of the Washington, Alex- andria and Mount Vernon Electric Railway. The two pretty little parks at 13th St. (the one to the right contains the eques- trian statue of Pulaski, Brigadier General Casimir, commander-in-chief of Polish patriots, by Kazimierz Chodzinski, are confronted by hotels, restaurants, etc., and National Theater and The Wash- ington Times. The Count joined Washington's Army in 1777. Distinguished for services at Brandywine, Germantown, and Charleston. Killed at Savannah. The handsome home of The Post, the leading morning newspaper, is just beyond. On the south side of the avenue is seen the general office of the Southern Railway system. 14th St. is the most important thoroughfare, north and south, in this part of the city, extending from the Long Bridge, at the foot of Maryland Ave. northward to Mount Pleas- ant. The Belt Line cars nni southward upon it from Pennsylvania Ave. to the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, and so on around to the Capitol. At the right (northward) the street slopes steeply up the hill to F St. Occupying the northwest corner, is Wil- . , „. ^ , lard's Hotel. The new Scottish Rite Temple t\ r • • 11 mi- 16th and s. Streets Municipal buildiug IS on Pai?e 38 tho southcast corner. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 33 New City Post Office Massachusetts Ave. and N. Capitol Street Page 26 The block opposite Willard's is devoted to business houses, and has the G. A. R. Hall and the Grand Hotel and Poll's Theater. This brings us to the end of the avenue, against the southern portico of the Treasury, and in sight of the im- pressive memorial to Sherman, Gen'l Wm. T. (1820-1891), by Carl Rohl Smith. Cost $131,000. West Point graduate. Second-lieutenant of artillery. Banker, lawyer. Superintendent Louisiana State Military Academy. Colonel of volunteer infantry 1861. Com- mander of brigade at Bull Run. Promoted to Major-General for gallantry at Shiloh. Fought at Corinth and Vicksburg. Brigadier-General U. S. A., 1862. Commanded the Anny of the Tennessee at Chattanooga. Captured Atlanta, September 1864. Sherman's March (with 60,000 men) "From Atlanta to the Sea" (Savannah) was 300 miles. Lieutenant-General 1869. Succeeded Grant as General. Turning to the right, up the slope of 15th St. we pass the busy terminus of F St. and go on to G St. where the New Riggs Building and Keith Theater form a dignified corner-piece. A few steps farther, the broad avenue in front of the Treasury opens the way northward, to the White House. A Street N. E. Cor. 1st St.— Old Brick Capitol where Congress convened during 181 5. President Monroe was inaugurated here in 1817 and here John C. Calhoun died in 1850. During the Civil War this building was used and known as the Old Capitol Prison. Connecticut Avenue N. W. Cor. L St. — Catholic School for Girls. No. 1300 — British Embassy, one of the few in Washington that are owned by their governments. No. 1307 — Austrian Legation. No. 1328 — Home of family of the late Gardiner G. Hubbard. Now home of Edson Bradley. 34 R A M D M r N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Crescent Place N. W. No. 162^ — Home of Hfnry While, formerly Ambassador to France. Dupont Circle N. W. No. 15 — White Marble Building. Home of JMrs. Patterson of Chicago. Designed bv the late Stanford White. G Street N. W. Bet. 17th & 1 8th Sts.— Wirt House. Named for the eminent Jurist who lived here twelve years. It was occupied at the beginning of the 19th Century by Washing- ton's {private secretary, Col. Tobias Lear, who concluded the peace with Tripoli. Wirt was United States Attorney from 1 8 1 7 to 1829. His wife was the author of "Flora's Dictionary." During and after the Civil War it became the office of the Army Signal Corps, and in this house the present weather service was de- veloped. No. 1914 — Gen. A. W. Grcclc^'^ U. S. A. Retired. H Street N. W. No. 1607 — Built and occupied by Commodore Richard Stockton, who added to a glorious naval record in the Mediterranean and West Indies the establishment of American rule in California. Later it was tenanted by Slidell who, with Mason was sent by the Confederate Government to England, but was captured on the Trent by his neighbor in Washington, Commodore Wilkes, who at that time lived in the present home of the Cosmos Club. Mr. Lamont when Secre- tary of War lived here. Bet. Vermont Ave. & 16th St.-- Bulwer House. Built and occu- pied l)y Matthew St. Clair Clarke, for a long time clerk of the House of Representatives, afterwards by the Britisn Legation. Here lived Lord Bulwer Lytton and his Secretary, Owen Mereditli, and here it is supposed he wrote his poem "Lucille." Later tenants were Lord Ashburlt)n (who with Daniel Webster drafted the "Ashburton Treaty," which defined our Canadian border), and Attorney-General Nelson. It is now the home of Mrs. Klargaret Freeman. Cor. Connecticut Ave. — For many years the home of the late W. W. Corcoran, to whom the city is indebted for the Corcoran Art Gallery, the Louise Home, and other enterprises and bene- factions. Several men of wide reputation (including Daniel Webster) have lived here. Occu- pied by Senator Calvin S. Brice during the later years of his life and is now the home of William Corcoran Eustis, who was eliair- man of Committee for Inaugura- tion of President Woodrow Wilson. No. 162 1 — Judge J. C. Bancroft, reporter of the Supreme Court. Here George Bancroft spent the last twenty years of his life and completed his History of the United States. S. W. cor. 17th St.— Metropolitan Club, the largest, wealthiest, and most fashionable in Washington. I Street N. W. No. 201 — Residence of the late Mgr. Martinelli, the apostle le- gate of the Pupe of Rome to the United States. This house was jiresented to General Grant by tlie citizens of Washington at the close of the war and occupied by him until he was inaugurated as President. It was afterward the residence of Justice Bradford of the Supreme Court. No. 203 — Presented to General W. T. Sherman who occupied it for several years. No. 205 — Occupied for a nimibiT of years by General U. S. Grant, and later by General W. T. Sherman. No. 1413 — Mexican Legation. No. 1500 — Now the residence of John McLean of the Cincinnati Inciuirer. Occujned by Hamil- ton iMsh when he was Secretary of Stale. No. 1601 — Air. Justice Gray of the Supreme Ctaul resided liere. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 35 No. 1617 — Residence of the late Geo. W. Riggs. Now occupied by his daughters. No. 1 73 1 — A famous house. Occu- pied by Mr. FreHnghuysen when he was Secretary of State, Wil- liam C. Whitney, Cleveland's first Secretary of the Navy, and John Wanamaker when he was Postmaster General. Now occu- pied by S. S. Rowland, son-in-law of the late August Belmont. No. 1739 — Harriet Lane Johnson, who presided at the White House during the Buchanan adminis- tration. Indiana Avenue N. W. No. 324 — Old home of Late Admiral Evans — now occupied by his family. Jackson Place N. W. S. W. cor H St. — Decatur House. Built by Commander Stephen Decatur, the hero of Tripoli — author of "My Country — may she always be right; but my country right or wrong." His home was adorned with trophies, gifts from foreign rulers, and rare knicknacks picked up in all parts of the world; and here he was brought to die after his duel with Commodore Barron in Bladensburg in 1H20. Later occupied successively by the Russian Minister, Henry Clay, Martin Van Buren, Edward Liv- ingstone, whose wife was Madame Moreau, whose daughter Cora was the reigning belle of Jackson's administration, and Gen. E. F. Beale, whose family now resides there. When Van Buren oc- cupied this house, he cut the window in the south wall in order that he might see the signals displayed in the White House by "Old Hickory." No. 16 — cor. of Alley. Built by Doctor Ewell of the U. S. Navy, occupied by three Sec- retaries of the Navy. It was the home of Senator Rives of Virginia, grandfather of the novelist Amelia Rives (Chanler) and afterward General Daniel Sickles. No. 14 — Vice-President Colfax lived here. The house passed into possession of the late Mrs. Washington McLean, mother of John R. McLean. K Street N. W. S. W. cor. 1 2th St. — Parsonage New York Ave. Presbyterian Church. No. 1203 — Old home of Commodore A. S. Wardsworth, where he entertained the poet Henry W. Longfellow in 1839. No. 1205 — A. S. Soloman, Almoner of Baron Hirsch, the Jewish Philanthropist. No. 131 1 — Built by Ben Holiday who operated the pony Express across the Continent before the Union Pacific Railroad was built. No. 1 32 1 — Here lived John Sher- man of Ohio, Senator, Secretary of the Treasury and Secretary of State. Now occupied by the Japanese Ambassador. No. 1323 — Old home of Edwin M. Stanton, Secretary of War, who died here. No. 1428 — Home of Admiral Wor- den Commander of the Monitor during her fight with the Merri- mac. N. W. cor. Vermont Ave. — Once the home of Commodore Vanderbilt, now the Office of the Attorney General. No. 1432 — Former home of Senator Gorman of Maryland. Bet. Vermont Ave. & 15th St. — Home of Mrs. Childs, Widow of Geo. W. Childs of Philadelphia. No. 1601 — Home of Admiral Dewey. No. 1603 — Home of ex-President Taft. Here he received the announcement of his nomination to the Presidency'. No. 1620 — Former Home of Senator Matthew Stanley Quay of Penna. No. 162 1 — Rev. Dr. McKim, Rec- tor Ejjiphany Church. No. 1627 — Jerome Bonaparte, great grand nephew of Napoleon lived here. 36 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE S. E. cor. K St.— The late Mrs. Vinnie Ream Hoxie who designed the statue of Admiral Farragut in Farragut Square and statue of Governor F. J. Kirkwood of Iowa, in Statuary Hall lived here. No. 1 70 1 — The site of the home of "Boss" Ale.xander R. vShcpherd, one time governor of Washington. It was for many years the Russian Legation. Now occupied by Women's Club. No. 1730 — Little Lord Fauntlero}' was written in this house which was then the residence of Dr. Swan and Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett. Cor. K St. — British Legation. No. 2460 — French Embassy. No. 2620 — Spanish Embassy. No. 2622 — Home of Colonel M. F. Gage, Military attache of the British Embassy. No. 2829 — Yellow brick. Home of Franklin McVeagh, formerly Sec- retary of the Treasury. Massachusetts Avenue N. W. Center of 8th St.— Public Library. N. W. cor. 1 2th St. — Ascension Episcopal Church. No. 131 1 — Mrs. Francis Riggs. No. 13 14 — Justice Morris of Dis- trict Supreme Court. Cor. 14th St. — Lutheran Memorial Church. No. 1 40 1 — Old Yellow Building. Home of the late H. Y. Satterlee Episcopal Bishop of Washington, D. C. Now occupied by Bishop Alfred Harding. No. 1402 — Former home of the late Rev. DcWitt Talmage. No. 1435 — German Eml)assy. Bet. 15th & i6th Sts.— Louise Home for aged women, entlowed by W. W. Corcoran. N. E. cor. 1 6th St.— Built by vSena- tor Cameron of Pennsylvania and afterward purchased by D. P. Morgan of New York whose family resides there. No. 1601 — Home of the late Wm. Windom when Senator from Minnesota and when Secretary of the Treasury. Now occupied by Charles A. Munn. No. 1603 — Former home of the late Stillson Hutchins, newspaper publisher. No. 162 1 — Mr. Spofford, Librarian, lived there. vS. W. cor. 17th St. — Light stone building; old home of Beriah Wilkins of the "Washington Post." No. 1709 — Hon. William Gibbs McAdoo, Secretary of the Treasury. No. 171 1 — Senator Henry Algernon Dupont of Delaware. Bet. 17th & 1 8th Sts.— Force Pub- lic School, — red brick building. No. 1748 — Light colored mansion. Home of the late Clarence Moore, one of the victims of the Titanic disaster. No. 1765 — Home of Senator Henry Cabot Lodge. N. E. cor. 1 8th St.— The Spanish Legation until war with Spain in 1898. No. 1 80 1 — Home of Herbert Wards- worth of New York. S. W. cor. 20th St. — Built by James G. Blaine. The stained glass window over the carriage drive is a picture of Blaine's old Negro Mammy. Now occupied by Mrs. Westinghouse. No. 200S — Surgeon General Geo. M. Sternberg, U. S. A. No. 201 1 — Belgian Legation. S. E. cor. 2 1 St St.— One of Wash- ington's finest private residences, built by the late Thomas F. Walsh, now occupied by Edward B. McLean and family. Said to have cost $3,000,000. No. 21 1 1 — Built by Ex-Senator Edmunds of Vermont. Bought from him by Mrs. U. S. Grant in 1895. No. 21 18 — Larz Anderson former Minister to Japan. No. 2 12 1 — Mrs. Alary Scott Town- send, daughter President Thos. A. Scott of the Pennsylvania Rail- road. No. 221 1 — Mrs. Sheridan, widow of General Phil Sheridan. Cor. M St. — Home of Ex-Justice Wiley of District Supreme Court. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 37 N. E. cor. N St. — Formerly the residence of Supreme Justice Shiras. Massachusetts Avenue Extended U. S. Naval Observatory. In charge of the Bureau of Naviga- tion. Open to a limited number of visitors on Thursday evenings, when the sky is clear, who may then look at the stars through a 1 2-inch telescope. New Hampshire Avenue N. W. No. 1400 — Old home of Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, famous for her charities. Now the Italian Em- bassy. No. 1408 — Mrs. Cox, widow of Sunset Cox. No. 1500 — Big cream-colored house, was the home of L. Z. Lciter, father of Lady Curzon. New York Avenue N. W. Cor. 1 8th St. — The old Octagon House built about 125 years ^•go by John Tayloe. Now the headquarters of the American Institute of Architects. Presi- dent Madison resided in this house after the burning of the White House by the British in 1 814. It is said that the treaty of peace was drawn in the octagon room over the hallway. In this house "Dolly" Madison held her famous drawing rooms. Q Street N. W. No. 2721 — Old Rittenhouse home, built in 1750 and originally called Bellevue. It became the home of Joseph Nourse, first Register of the Treasury. General Wash- ington was a frequent visitor here. R Street N. W. N. W. cor. New Hampshire Ave., home of Thomas Nelson Page, the novelist. Rhode Island Avenue N. W. No. 1500 — Home of Levi P. Mor- ton, the oldest living Vice-Presi- dent. Built by Alex. Graham BeU. No. 1 616. — The home of Chief- Justice White. No. 1640 — Secretary of State Olney lived here. No. 1 741 — House presented to Admiral Dewey. No. 1745 — Guatemala Legation. 15 M Street N. W. No. 15 — Belasco Theatre. Site of home built by Commodore Rodgers, afterwards the elite boardinghouse of Washington, numberimg among its guests John Adams, John C. Cal- houn and Henry Clay. Later it was used by the Washington Club where assembled the rich and influential men of the capital. General Sickles and Key were members and the tragedy which connects their names took place in front of its door. It after- wards became the residence of Secretary Seward and there was made the attempt upon his life by the Assassin Payne on the night of the murder of Lincoln in 1865 by John Wilkes Booth. Its next distinguished occupant was James G. Blaine, Secretary of State in the Harrison adminis- tration, and there he died. No: 17 — Fine yellow house, was the home of the family of Senator Hanna of Ohio, was formerly owned and occupied by Ogle Tayloe, son of John Tayloe of the Octagon house and Mount Airy, one of the most accom- plished Americans of his day. His collection of pictures, orna- ments, statuary and curios is now in the Corcoran Art Gallery. A later occupant was Admirai Paulding (a son of John Paulding one of the captors of Andre) who suppressed Walker's filli- busters in Nicaragua. Lilly Ham- mersley now Dowager Duchess of Marlborough was born there. One of its latest occupants was Vice-President Hobart. No. 21 — Here have lived Secretary Windom, Senator Fenton, and Robert G. IngersoU. 38 RAND McNALLV WASHINGTON GUIDE S. E. cor. H St. — Gray house was built in 1825 by Richard Cutts, brother-in-law of "Dolly" Madi- son, the wife of President Madi- son. Shortly before his death President Madison gained posses- sion of it and there " Dolly" held court during her declining years. After her death the tenants in- cluded Attorney General Critten- den, Senator William C. Preston, and Commodore Wilkes, who in 1 86 1 was required to take his quondam near neighbor Slidell from the British steamer Trent. When the Civil War broke out the house was occupied by General George B. McClellan who established there the head- quarters of the Army of the Potomac. It is now the house of the Cosmos Club, a social club of men interested in science. This club may be considered the in- tellectual center of the non- political life of the Capital. 1 6th Street N. W. N. E. cor. H St.— St. John's Episcopal Church. N. W. cor. H St. — Former home of the late John Hay, author of "Little Breeches," and with Mr. Nicholay, the principle biogra- pher of Lincoln. S. E. cor. K St.— Mrs. Anderson, widow of General Anderson the hero of Fort Sumter. No. 930 — Home of Major Geo. M. Wheeler, U. S. A., who con- ducted the "surveys west of the 1 00th meridian." N. E. cor. K St.— Home of Ex- Senator Eugene Hale of Maine; one of Washington's Palatial homes. No. 1013 — Brazil Embassy. No. 1017 — Venezuela Legation. No. 1 100 — Home of Senator Wm. Alden Smith of Michigan. No. 1 125 — Russian Embassy resi- dence. Mansion was built l)y widow of George M. Pullman. No. 1 1 55 — Home of Senator Elihu Root of New York. N. E. cor. L St. — Home of late Senator Proctor of Vermont. N. E. cor. Rhode Island Ave. — Red brick building formerly occupied by Secretary of the Navy, George Von L. Meyers. Cor. Church St.— Foundry M. E. Church. No. 1323 — Ex-Representative Huff of Pennsylvania. No. 1325 — Rev. Alex Macay vSmith, Rector of the St. Thomas Church. Cor. S St. — The Scottish Rite Temple. One of the most beau- tiful buildings erected by any fraternal organization in the United States. A huge monu- mental pile of white marble. Its cost is estimated at §1,000,000. A library of 75,000 volumes, the nucleus of which was a donation of the library of General Albert Pike, who was Grand Commander of the Supreme Council from 1859 to 1 89 1 and a scholar of wide reputation. No. 1327 — Chile Legation. No. 1500 — Senator Foraker. No. 1923 — Home of associate Jus- tice Willis V^an Devanter of U. S. Supreme Court. No. 2100 — Home of associate Jus- tice Charles E. Hughes of the U. S. Supreme Court, formerly Gover- nor of New York. Cor. Florida Ave. — Henderson Castle. Home of the widow of the late Senator Henderson of Missouri. 1 8th Street N. W. S. E. cor. G St. — Everett House, built by Edward Everett of Massachusetts, Secretary of State under President Fillmore, Gover- nor of Massachusetts, U. S. Minister to England, President of Harvard. Afterwards the home of Jefferson Davis when vSccretary of War. His Successor was Jacob Thompson Buchan- an's Secretary of tlie Interior who became a member of the Confederate Cal)inet in 1861. He was followed by CajJt. Henry Wise, and later for many years it was used by the RIedical Department of the Army and Navy. RAND M c N A L L Y W A S ?I I N G T O N GUIDE 39 Cor. N St. — Presbyterian Church of the Covenant. No. 1328 — John W. Foster, Diplo- mat, Secretary of State under Harrison and later advisory Counsel to China in her settle- ment with Japan. 19th Street N. W. No. 2001 — China Legation. 23 d Street N. W. No. 1602 — Home of E. H. Everett of Ohio. Mt. Vernon : Reached by W-V Electric Ry. or steamboat on the Potomac River. By train leave Pennsylvania Ave. & 12th St. every hour week days, from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m., from May ist to November ist, and from 10 a. m. to 2 p. m. from Novem- ber ist to May ist. These trains make the round trip in three hours, of which one hour may be spent on the grounds. The fare is 50 cents for the round trip, or 85 cents inchiding side trip to Arlington. All tickets allow stop-over privilege in Alexandria. When crossing the Potomac there is a fine view of the river, and Fort Runyon, erected in 186 1 to guard the head of the bridge from raiders. The train passes St. Asaph and then skirts the base of the low hills upon which Braddock's anny was encamped in 1755, before under- taking that disastrous march against the French and Indians at Fort Duquesne (now Pittsburgh), where Braddock was killed and his army saved from annihilation only by the genius of his young colonial aid, George Washington. Alexandria (a city of 16000 inhabitants) is then entered. Here are many quaint and interesting relics of the past. Christ Church (near the Washington St. Station) is where Washington's family and all the respectable persons of his neighborhood used to worship. Other things of interest for their associations are the Masonic lodge room, where Wash- ington and other prominent men of that day were wont to meet ; the house in which Braddock had his home and military headquarters; the local monument to Confederate soldiers (seen from the train at Wash- ington St.) Soon after leaving Alexan- dria by way of King St. (with a station at Prince & Royal), the »* ^ « Tt . Mount Vernon Potomac comes Page 42 40 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE into view and the train crosses the broad estuary of Big Hunting Creek, at the head of which was built, during the Civil War, Fort Lyon, one of the prin- cipal defenses of Washington. The red brick building seen some distance up the stream, is the old Episcopal Theological Sem- inary, founded in colonial tinics. More plainly visible at the left is Jones Point, marked by a lighthouse. This was the southern corner of the origi- nal district of Co- lumbia. A mile farther on, the position of Fort Foote on the other side of the river is seen. Here, among peach orchards, begins the Mount Vernon estate, which in George Washington's time contained about 8,000 acres, and just beyond Belmont station is seen, some distance to the left, the white house in which dwelt Col. Tobias Lear, W^ashington's secretary. The remainder of the run is through beautiful fields, with pleasant outlooks all around, frequent views of the river, and a sight of the flags flying over Fort Washington and Fort Hunt. The ter- minus is at the North Lodge gate of the Mount Vernon grounds, within three minutes' walk of the mansion. The liver route to Mount Vernon is by the steel stoanior Charles Macalcster, capacity, IGOO passengers, built expressly for this service. Leaves 7th St. wliarf daily (Sunday excepted), 10 ;i. ni. and 2.30 p. m., summer schedule (May 1 to November 1); 10 a. ni. and 1.45 p. m., winter schedule (November 1 to May 1). Landings aiv made at Alexandria, going and iv( inn- ing. Christ Church, Alexandria Page 39 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 41 The Potomac River trip is one of great enjoyment. The steamer rides in a broad channel dredged for harbor purposes by ■'"he Government and kept full by a tidal reservoir above. On the city shore, immediately below the wharves, appears the pleasant parade of War College, Washington Barracks, a military post on the peninsula between the Potomac and its eastern branch. Here in 1865, were confined the con- spirators in the assassination of Lincoln, four of whom were hung and buried there. Where this execution and the inter- ments were made is not accurately known, but it is believed that the gallows was planted near the circular flower bed now in front of the commandant's door, and that the bodies were buried near its foot. All were soon afterward removed, the penitentiary was swept away, the limits of the reservation were advanced to P St., and, in 1881, the arsenal was abolished. The Anacostia River opens broadly at the left and the navy yard and southern front of the city are exposed to view. On the further bank looms up the great Government Hospital for the Insane, which cost $1,000,000, and is one of the finest institutions of its kind in the world. It is primarily intended for demented men of the arniy and navy; and there Lieutenant Gushing, of torpedo-boat fame, and Gaptain McGiffin, the hero of the naval fight of the Yalu, in Ghina- Japan War, ended their blighted days. The low, level grounds of Giesboro Point, bordering the river below the asylum, were occupied during the war as cavalry cainps and drilling stations. Alexandria now comes into view. Gunston is the ancient landing for the estate of the eminent Mason family, whose colonial seat, Gunston Hall, is still standing a short distance inland, though no longer in possession of the Masons. It was a familiar calling place for Washing- ton — one of his nearest neighbors in fact. Fort Washington, the next stop made, is within sight of Mount Vernon and commanding the channel. Tradition says that the early explorers .., , . , t- u c ,-, T-, , J- 1 Washington's Tomb or the Potomac tound an Mount Vemon Indian "castle" here and Page 44 42 RAND ISI c N A L I. Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Garden at Mount Vernon Page 46 that Washington advised the building of a fort on this headland, as soon as the District of Columbia was created. L'Enfant drew its plans at his last public work, and a strong fortress was begun, but was blown up by the Americans in 1812, when they heard that the British were com- ing. It was rebuilt in I S98, under the threat of war with Europe, and made the principal defense of the cap- ital against sea attack. The principal battery consists of five 8-inch rifles, mounted on disappearing carriages, behind enormous embankments of earth and concrete, 200 feet above the river level. These guns command the river for a distance of 20 miles, and have an extremely accurate range of over 6 miles. Fort Hunt was constructed nearly opposite, where are mounted two huge 12-inch rifles, ha\4ng an e\'en longer range and more destructive fire, besides several 8-inch guns. The United States Fish Commission maintains a fish hatching station near Fort Washington. Mount Vernon is on the right bank of the Potomac, 16 miles below Washington. The lands about it were a part of an extensive grant to John Washington, the first of the family who came to America in 1656, and they descended rather fortuitously in 1752, to George, then hardly more than a lad. He married in 1759, and continued to develop and beautify the estate until the breaking out of the Revolution, when the ability he had shown in the Virginia milita called him to the service of the United Colonies. He returned to Mount Vernon at the close of the war, but was obliged soon to quit its beloved acres for the cares of the first Presidency of the Repul)lic. During this inter\-al of five years an almost continuous stream of visitors had been entertained there, and among them were many foreigners of note as well as repre- sentative Americans of the time. Finally, in 1797, the great commander was released from the cares of government, and enabled to retire, to pass, as he hoped, many quiet and enjoy- able years upon his ])lantation. Only two years were vouch- safed him, however, for on Decem])er 14, 1799, he died of RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 43 Stairway, at Mount Vernon Pase 47 membranous croup (or " barbarous treatment ") fol- lowing exposure in a storm. He was buried upon his own estate, and the family declined to accept the sub- sequent invitation of Congress to transfer the body to the undercroft of the Capitol. For sixteen years Washington cultivated his great farm and lived the usual life of a Virginia planter, content with the pursuit of agriculture and the social pleasures of a country gentleman. He raised large quantities of grain, which he shipped to London direct from his own wharf at Mount Vernon. He had some of the best society in Virginia — "the polite, wealthy and fashionable" — was a profuse and lib- eral host, was fond of fox hunting, fishing, fowling and athletic sports, and was happy in his home and domestic relations. His wife was thoroughly domestic in her tastes and habits, and a careful housekeeper. Washington's property, estimated as worth $530,000, descended, at the death of Mrs. Washington in 1802, to Bushrood Washington, then a Justice of the Supreme Court, who died in 1829, leaving the estate to his nephew, John Augustin Washington, from whom it passed by legacy in 1832, to his widow, and from her, in 1855 to her son. He proposed to sell it, when a southern lady. Miss Ann Pamcls Cunningham, succeeded in arousing the women of the country, w^ho formed an association named Mount Vernon Ladies' Association of the Union, with representatives from every state, which was incorporated by Virginia in 1856, and in 1858, it paid $200,000 for the central part of the property (some 200 acres), covenant- ing to hold it in perpetuity. The admission fee of 25 cents goes to the payment of current expenses. The approach to Mount Vernon, by the river, impresses one with the sightliness of the situation and the dignity of the mansion, which shines among the trees from an elevation 44 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Washington's Room Mount Vernon Page 50 125 feet above the landing wharf. In the summer Mount Vernon is a mass of foHage to the river's edge. It has a great growth of ancient trees and luxuriant under- growth. Like all the region in which it is located, it is thickly wooded, and from the river has an exceedingly picturesque appearance. The mansion is very nearly concealed by the trees sur- rounding it. It is located on an elevation, and from the grounds delightful views of river and shore can be obtained through openings in the groves of trees. The Tomb of Washington stands immediately at the head of the path from the landing. Its position, small dimensions, and plain form of brick were dictated by Washington in his will. The back part of it, extending into the bank and closed by iron doors, entombs the bodies of about forty members and relatives of the family. The front part, closed by plain iron gates, through which any one may look, contains two plain sarcophagi, each excavated from a single block of marble which were made and presented by John Struthers of Phila- delphia in 1837. The one in the center of the little enclosure holds the mortal remains of the Father of his Country, within the mahogany coffin in which they were originally placed. At his left is the body of his "consort," Martha Washington. Both the sarcophagi are sealed and are intended never to be opened; nor are the vaults at the rear. Four times a year, however, the iron gates are opened by the authorities, and it is on these occasions that the wreaths and other offerings of flowers are deposited. At the time of Washington's death, his body was placed in the older and smaller family tomb a few steps farther cast and nearer the river, which is now overgrown with ivy and shaded by immense oaks. Here Mrs. Washington was laid beside him, and there they remained until 183 1, when they were removed to their present resting-place. Judge Bushrod Washington and se\'eral other relatives of the family are buried nearby, beneath monuments that bear their names. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 45 The Mansion stands upon an eminence overlooking broad reaches of the Potomac, and 125 feet above it. It is built of wood, the framework being of oak; is 96 feet long by 30 feet wide, and has two stories and an attic. The eastern portico is paved with tiles imported from England in 1786. The western or landward front of the house, which w^as the one most often approached by visitors in the old coach-traveling days, has no porch, but presents an extended plain front, with an ornamental center and two side doors, symetrically dis- posed, while the roof is pleasingly broken by a low gable and two dormers, and by the little central cupola and two large chimneys. A generous lawn, shaded along the sides and at a distance by numerous great trees which still survive, and containing a sun-dial, was called the Bowling Green, .and terminated at the gate on the highway by which carriages entered the home grounds. The kitchen was a spacious house, nearly all of one end of which was devoted to a huge fireplace, whose andirons and turnspit are still in place. Next the house stands the original well, from which one may still pump a drink of water ; and just beyond it is the great smokehouse, always so important an adjunct to every self-supporting South- ern establishment. Beyond the smokehouse, on the road which leads southward to- ward the tomb and steam- boat landing, is the old laundry, and then the coachhouse in which may be seen an old-time chaise, said to have been one used by Washington. Then comes the barn, the oldest build- ing on the estate, which was constructed by Wash- ington's father in 1 733 , from JDricks said to have been imported from England. The outer buildings at the right (or north) of the house, include the building ., „ octagon "°"^^ c»,„.» 1-1 New York Ave. and 18th Street m which the manager of the Page 37 46 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE estate resided, and where was the busi- ness office ; it is now the office of the superintendent. Just beyond was the carpenter shop ; and in the rear of this a larger build- ing called the spin- ning house, where, in old times, the slave women gath- ered to spin and weave the cotton, wool and flax for the clothes of the servants and to make garments and rag carpets; the room is now filled with looms and s])inning wheels. Still farther away in this direction is seen the row of re- stored buildings ori- ginally the quarters of the colored serv- ants required about the house, stables and gardens. Near them are the greenhouses. The field hands lived in cabins scattered about the estate. The gardens are perhaps the most interesting places in the whole grounds. They were laid out in a formal style of walks and beds, as was then the fashion, defined by hedges of box, which still grow luxuriantly and are kept well trimmed, as of yore. In the early summer days they are a mar\-el of flowers and beautiful foliage. The enclosure on the north side, between the lawn and the negro quarters, was the rose garden. It contains specimens of that rose named by Washington for his mother, and others bearing his own name and that of Nellie Custis. It is no wonder, as we are told, that it was one of the regular afternoon pleasures of Madame Washington to gather rose leaves here to make rose water and a certain per- fumed unguent for which she was famous among her friends. ^ 1 1 I Naval Radio Station, Arlington Page 55 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 47 It was a habit of the family to ask distinguished guests to I^lant something as a keepsake, and several of these mementos still flourish. The little structure at the end of the long walk in the garden is reputed to have been the schoolroom of the Custis children. The "Vineyard Enclosure," as Washington designated it, in the rear of the kitchen, was devoted more to fruit and vegetables, yet was a charming garden too. The Summer House, on the brow of the river bluff, stands upon the site of an original one, and has beneath it a deep cellar suitable for storing ice. The slope of the bluff was devoted by Washington to the purposes of a deer park, and deer have been replaced there since 1887. A considerable quantity of furniture as well as personal relics of George and Martha Washington are here, especially in the bedrooms where they died. These are mostly distinctly labeled, so that the visitor can distinguish between what belonged to the Father of his Country and what is simply illustrative of the domestic life of his day. The Central Hall contains four of Washington's dress swords, the most interesting of which is the one bequeathed to his nephew Lewis, since it is the one he wore when he resigned his commission at Annapolis, when he was inaugurated President at New York, and elsewhere on ceremonious occasions. Another was worn by him in the Braddock campaign. Here, also, hangs the main key of the Bastile, that prison in Paris which was demolished by the mob in 1 789. Lafayette sent it to Wash- ington with a characteristic letter; and also the model of the Bastile in the Banquet Hall. Lafayette's Agreement to serve as Major-General in the American army hangs near by. The hall appears as it was redecorated by Washington in 1775, and the engravings are reprints of pictures he owned. The tall clock on the stairs was presented by New Jersey; the table belonged to W. A. Washington. The Music Room or East Parlor opening from this hall by the first door at the right, is crowded with objects, of which the most conspicuous is the harpsichord that was given to Nellie Custis by Washington, together with his grand military plume, when she married Lawrence Lewis in 1798. "When the hour came, the tall majestic figure emerged from his bed- room, clad in the old worn continental buff and blue — and at the appointed moment gave the pretty, blushing creature, with her wild-rose cheeks and dark and liquid eyes, into the keeping of his trusted nephew, Lawrence." Here also are the stool belonging to the piano, and Miss Custis' embroidery frame; Washington's flute — of rosewood, silver-mounted — his card 48 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE table, the guitar and music book of a relative, and in the cabinet many small articles of tableware, his spectacles, a steel camp fork, etc., which belon,<2;cd to the General or his family. The upholstering of the reproduced furniture and the fonn of the Venetian mirror are like that originally here. The West Parlor, entered by the second hall door on the right, looks, in its walls, ceiling and handsome corner fireplace, as it did when Washington left it. Above the man- tel is carved the coat-of- amis of the family, and his crest and initials appear cast in relief on the iron fireback; the mantel painting of ships is said to portray a part of the fleet at Carthagena of that Admiral Vernon, after whom the estate was named. The carpet is a large rug presented by L.ouis XVI to Wash- ington. Several chairs here also belonged to the furniture of the house. A spinet and two fine old candlesticks will be noticed, the lat- ter standing upon a beautiful pier table. The first door on the left opens into Mrs. W'asJi- iugtcvi's sitting-room, re- furnished in the manner of the period. The tables and mirror are historic. Some elabor- ate candlesticks and a sconce for candles are noteworthy; the latter Where Lincoln Died 11 i • a1 r "K. etc in^u c. » belonged m the family. 516-lOth Street '^ . -', Page 31 There is here preserved RAND AI c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 49 a candle molded for the illumination at Yorktown in celebration of Cornwallis' surrender. The engravings representing the siege of Gibraltar hung in this same room when its master was alive. The Dining-Room is next beyond, and still has the appear- ance and much of the furniture of the time of its illustrious owner. The Italian mantel and stucco ornaments of the walls, cornice and ceiling are admirable; and the ornamented fireback came from " Belvoir", the country seat of Lord Fairfax, Washington's early friend and patron, while the andirons and fender belong to the Rutledge house. The sideboard, decanter and wine chest were Washington's, while the china in the corner cupboard is a copy of the set given to Mrs. Washington by the officers of the French fleet in 1792. The rug, tables and chairs belong to that period; and among the portraits of Revolu- tionary generals on the walls is one of Miss Cunningham, who originated the Mount Vernon Association. The southern end of the house is occupied by a second stairway and by a large apartment known as the Library, in which are gathered Washington's tambour secretary and revolving chair, his family bible, Mrs. Washington's prayerbook, Washington's original globe, tripod he used when surveying, autograph letters of Washington and two maps drawn by him, an original mahogany bookcase, and a few of the volumes which belonged to Washington, most of the remainder of which are now in the Athenaeum Library of Boston. The shelves of the bookcases are now filled mainly with duplicates of those Washington possessed and with literature about Washington ; and upon the walls hang reprints of documents connected with his public life. A silver inkstand, some chairs and a few small articles are personal relics. The Banquet Hall is an addition made to the northern end of the house after George received it from his half brother. In this hall is a painting of the Great Falls of the Potomac, made at his request. Opposite the window is a highly ornate fire- place and mantel of Italian marble and workmanship, which once occupied a place in the home at Wanstead, England, of Samuel \^aughn, who brought it to America as a gift to Washing- ton in 1785. The center of the hall is occupied by a great table, similar to the original one, upon which lies Washington's "plateau" of silver and mirror glass, intended as an ornament for the center of the table on ceremonious occasions. His punch-bowl is also to be seen among many other small articles of use or ornament that were in the house, and which are now safely locked in a cabinet. The model of the Bastile, a French 50 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Pennsylvania Ave. from Treasury Page 33 dock that still keeps good time, two porcelain vases, silver bracket lamps, a mirror, rosewood stands for flower vases, a surveyor's tripod and lesser objects are identified with the house and its owners; while a lock of the General's hair and Martha's ivory fan are peculiarly personal and precious. Visitors should examine closely the portrait woven upon silk, in French Jacquard looms, which cost $15,000, so elaborate a process was required. Perhaps the most valued relic in the Banquet Room is the original Bust of Washington, by Houdon, the first impression from the "life mask." Of the bedrooms on the second floor the most interesting to all is that of the General himself — the Room in which Washington died. It is at the south end of the house, over the library, and the ladies of Virginia have been able to restore it more nearly to its original ajij^ear- ancc than any other part of the house. The bed is in the same place and the same one u])on which Washington died, and the chairs, small tables, and mirror were a part of the scene. The hangings of the windows aiid bedstead copy those of the time; two cushions were worked by Martha Washington and a dainty chair cover shows the needlework of her granddaughter; while RAND AI c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 51 parts of Washington's traveling chest and camp equipage remind the beholder of his stoiTny life. Room in which Martha Washington died. Martha Washington died three years after her husband, in the room in the attic immediately above this — a bedroom she had chosen because his room had been closed (as was the custom), and from this south attic window she could see his grave. It is as nearly as possible as it was when Martha slept there. The corner wash- stand really belonged to her. Here are a china tea set she used, a desk, a chair and dressing glass. Other rooms on the second floor are known by special names. The Lafayette Room is so called because the Marquis occupied it when at Mount Vernon. The River Room contains furniture identified with Franklin and other of Washington's friends and relatives; The Guest Chamber is due to Delaware; the Green Room to West Virginia, and that in which Nellie Custis slept to Maryland, where the bedstead and other furniture all belonged to old Southern families who lived in a style very similar to that at Mount Vernon. The Upper Hall, communicating with these bedrooms, has a cabinet in which are to be seen several of the Mount Vernon fire-buckets, a brown suit of clothes with velvet waist- coat and silk stockings worn by Washington, and a compass and reading glass that were used by him, as well as several relics of members of his family and descendants. The musket was brought to America by Lafayette. In the Attic a series of small bedrooms has been furnished by the vice-regents of various states, with articles of colonial manufacture and interest. Washington Monument. This memorial is the reaHzation of a popular movement which began before Washington's death, so that he was enabled to indicate his own preference for this site, which was expressed in a congressional resolution in 1799, which contemplated an equestrian statue. The death of Washington revived the matter, — a bill appropriating $150,000 for a mausoleum passed both houses, but was mislaid and not signed at the close of the session. The next Congress was made up of Washington's political opponents, and his monu- ment was no more heard of until an association, ex officio, headed by the President of the United States, was fonned which undertook to retrieve what it considered a national disgrace, and raised a large sum of money for the purpose. This site was obtained, the corner-stone was laid with impressive ceremonies on the 4th of July, 1848, and the work progressed until the shaft had reached a height of 150 feet, when the funds gave out. The coming of the Civil War turned men's 52 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE UPl-r^H^ J*. .. ■ •" -"- ■—■ ■■•■■■•'■ Wm *""*""• •■ ' - A Modern Residence Massachusetts Ave. Page 36 of attention elsewhere, but in- terest was revived by the wave of patriotism devel- oped by the Centennial year, under the influence of which Cong;ress at^rced to finish the shaft. To Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engi- neers, U. S. A., was intrusted the task of enlarging and strengthening the founda- tions — a most difficult piece of engineering which he accomplished with consum- mate skill. The foundations a mass of solid, blue rock. are described as constructed 146 feet square. "The base of shaft is 55 feet square, and the lower walls arc 15 feet thick. At the 500-feet elevation, where the pyramid top begins, the walls are only 18 inches thick and about 35 feet square. The inside of the walls, as far as they were constructed before the work was undertaken by the government in 1878 — 150 feet from the base — is of blue granite, not laid in courses. From this point to within a short distance of the beginning of tne top of the roof, the inside of the walls is of regular courses of granite, corresponding with the courses of marble on the outside. For the top, marble is entirely used. The work has been declared the best piece of masonry in the world. By a plumb line suspended from the top of the 'monument inside, not three-eighths of an inch deflection has been noticed. The keystone that binds the interior ribs of stone that support the marble facing of the pyramidal cap of the monument, weighs nearly five tons. It is 4 feet 6 inches high, and 3 feet 6 inches square at the top. "On the 6th day of December, 1884, the capstone, which completed the shaft, was set. The capstone is 5 feet 2^4 inches in height, and its base is somewhat more than 3 feet square. At its cap, or peak, it is 5 inches in diameter. ( )n the cap was placed a tip or point of aluminum, a composi- tion metal which resembles polished silver, and which was selected because of its lightness and freedom from oxidation and because it will always remain bright." A staircase of 900 steps winds its way to the top, around an interior shaft of iron pillars, in which the elevator nnis; few people walk u]d, but many descend that way, in order to examine more carefully the inscribed memorial blocks which are set into the interior wall at various places. Within the shaft formed by the interior iron framc\\'ork rttns an elevator, making a trip every half hotir, and carrying, if need be, thirty persons. As this elevator and its ropes are of unttsual strength and were severely tested by u.se in elevating the stone required for the upper courses as the structure progressed, its safety need not be suspected. The elevator is lighted by electricity and RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 53 carries a telephone. Seven minutes are required for the ascent of 500 feet; and one can see as it passes, all the inscriptions and carvings sufficiently well to satisfy the curiosity of most persons, as none of these memorials have any artistic excellence. An officer in charge of the floor marshals visitors into the elevator, and another cares for the observatory floor at the top; but no fees are expected. The surrounding grounds form Washington Park. The view from the eight small windows, which open through the pyramidon, or sloping summit of the obelisk, 517 feet from the ground, includes a circle of level country having a radius of from 15 to 20 miles, and southwest extends still farther, for in clear weather the Blue Ridge is well defined in that direction. The Potomac is in sight from up near Chain Bridge, down to far below Mount Vernon; and the whole district lies unrolled like a map. To climb the Washington Monument, is therefore, an excellent method of beginning an intelligent survey of the capital, and of "getting one's bearings." Looking first toward the north, the most compact part of the city is surveyed. At the very foot of the monument are the artificial Carp Ponds, so called because, years ago, the Fisheries Commission propagated European carp for distribu- tion there. Beyond, in the center foreground, are the grounds of the Executive Mansion, rising in a gentle slope to the White House. On its left stands the State, War, and Navy Building; and to the left of that (and nearer) is the marble front of the Corcoran Art Gallery, on 17th St., and beyond that is seen the old Octagon House on a straight line with the Naval Observa- tory, conspicuous in white paint and yellow domes, 3 miles away amid the green hills beyond Georgetown. Nearer the water than any of these is a large yellow house among the trees — the Van Ness mansion, one of „ „ .... the first costly residences Commerce ouilding . .-' 19th Street and Pennsylvania Ave. built m Washmgton. 54 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul better known as the Washington Cathedral is located at Mt. St. Alban in a close of 45 Acres. This no})le Anglican Cathedral with its large spacious grounds and buildings is in the section bound by Massachusetts Ave., Wisconsin Avenue, Woodley Road and 35th St. The Connecticut Ave. bridge spans the valley of Rock Creek. It is entirely of concrete, 1,341 feet long, with a road- way 35 feet wide, and two sidewalks each 8 feet wide. At the right of the White House is the Treasury, here seen to inclose two great courts. The lines of 17th, i6th, and 15th Sts. and of Vermont Ave. lead the eye across the most solid and fashionable northwest quarter of the city to the more thinly settled hill districts, where are conspicuous the square tower of the Soldiers' Home (4^ miles), the lofty buildings of Howard University, and, farther to the right and more dis- tant, the halls of the Catholic University. The eastern outlook carries the picture around to the right, and embraces the valley of the Anacostia River, or eastern branch of the Potomac. Here the conspicuous object is the Capitol ( I % miles distant) , whose true proportions and supreme size, can now be well understood. Over its right wing a])pears the Congressional Library, its gilt dome flashing back the rays of the sun, and setting it out sharply against the Maryland hills. Between the Monument and the Capitol stretches the green mall, with the grounds and buildings of the Agricultural Depart- ment nearest the observer; then the castellated towers of the Smithsonian, the low breadth of the National Museum, the red shapeless pile of the Army Medical Museum, and the small Fisheries Building, leading the eye as far as 6th St., beyond which are open parks. This leads the eye to the broad current of the Anacostia, which can be overlooked as far up as the Navy Yard, and downward to where it joins the Potomac at Greenlcaf's Point. The military barracks there can be seen, and on this side of it, along the harbor branch of the Potomac, are the steamboat wharves. The view southward is straight down the Potomac, far beyond the spires of Alexandria, 6 miles in an air line, to where it bends out of view around Cedar Point. The new steel bridge, which replaced "Long Bridge," is in the immediate foreground, and the railways leading to it can be traced. To the right, the eyes sweep over a wide area of the red Virginia hills thickly crowned during the Civil War with fortifications, the sites of some of which may be discovered by the knowing, RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 55 Arlington Mansion Page 58 and cover the disast- rous fields of Manas- sas off to the right on the level blue hori- zon. The west- ern view- continues this land- scape of Virginia, and incl- udes about 3 niiles of the Poto- mac above Long Bridge. Close beneath the eye are the old and scattered houses of the southwest quarter, with the Van Ness homestead, and the hill crowned by the old Naval Observ- atory on ground where Washington meant to place his national university. Above that the current of the river is broken by Analostan, or Mason's Island, opposite the mouth of Rock Creek, beyond which are the crowded, hilly streets of George- town, and the Acqueduct Bridge, leading to Rosslyn, on the southern bank. Beyond, over the city of Georgetown, are the beautiful wooded heights above Woodley, where President Cleveland had his summer home, and thousands of charming suburban houses are building. On the Virginia side of the river the Arlington mansion appears, somewhat at the left, and 3 miles distant, more in front and nearer, the National Cemetery, embowered in trees, and behind it, the clustered quarters of Fort Meyer. The Naval Radio Station towers pierce the sky, two each 450 feet, and one 600 feet high. Used for communication with ships and shore stations. Range, over water, of 3000 miles. The distance is a rolling, semi-wooded country, thickly sown with farms, hamlets, and villages, among which Fall's Church alone is conspicuous, and fading away to a high level horizon; but when the air is clear, the eye can see and rejoice in the faint but distinct outlines of the turquoise- tinted Blue Ridge, far away in the southwest. Arlington National Cemetery is connected with Washington 56 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE by electric lines which have convenient schedules ; also by sight- seeing automobiles. A tour of the cemetery can be made by public carriages from Fort Myer gates for 25 cents. A stop of five minutes is made at the Mansion, where a lay-over ticket is given, if asked for. From the Fort Myer gate to the Mansion, following the main road and flagstone walk, is about a third of a mile, which shows nearly all of the older and more cultivated part of the cemetery. Southward of the path the graves of soldiers of the Civil War spread away through the woods, as far as can be seen, each marked by a small marble headstone, with here and there a more prominent mark. At intervals are placed iron tablets bearing lines or stanzas selected from Col. Theodore O'Hara's eloquent poem: The Bivouac of the Dead. Some of which follow: The muffled drum's sad roll has beat The soldier's last tattoo; No more on Life's parade shall meet That brave and fallen few. _ " On Fame's eternal camping-ground Their silent tents are spread, And Glory guards, with solemn round, The bivouac of the dead. No rumor of the foe's advance Now swells upon the wind; No troubled thought at midnight haunts Of loved ones left behind; No vision of the morrow's strife The warrior's dream alarms; No braying horn nor screaming fife At dawn shall call to arms. The neighing troop, the flashing blade, The bugle's stirring 1)last, The charge, tlie dreadful cannonade. The din and shout, are past ; Sons of the Dark and Bk)t)tly ground, Ye must not slumber tliere. Where stranger steps and tongues resound Along the heedless air. Your own proud land's heroic soil Sliall be your fitter grave; She claims from war his richest spoil — The ashes of her brave. RAND M c N A L L Y W A S H T X G T O N GUIDE 57 Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead! Dear as the blood ye gave, No impious footsteps here shall tread The herbage of your grave ; Nor shall your glory be forgot, While Fame her record keeps, Or Honor points the hallowed spot Where Valor proudly sleeps. Nor wreck, nor change, nor winter's blight. Nor Time's remorseless doom. Shall dim one ray of glory's light That gilds your deathless tomb. On the left, or north, of the path rest such famous com- manders as Belknap, Burns, Gleason, Gregg, Harvey, Hazen, Ingalls, King, Kirk, Lyford, Meyer (whose idea it was that these grounds should be set apart for this purpose) , McKibbin, Paul, Plummer, Steadman, Turtellotte and many others; and the monuments are often exceedingly appropriate. The interest increases as the Mansion is approached. On the brow of this bluff are buried Gen. Philip Sheridan, beneath a grand memorial stone; Admiral David D. Porter, Maj.-Gen. George H. Crook, whose monument bears a bronze bas-relief of the surrender of the Apache Gcronimo; Maj.-Gen. Abner Doubleday, the historian of Gettysburg; Generals Meigs, Ricketts, Benet and Watkins; Colonel Berdan of "sharpshooter" fame, and others. In the rear of the mansion is a miniature temple upon whose columns are engraved the names of great American soldiers; and a lovely amphitheater of columns, vine- embowered, where Decoration Day cere- monies and open-air burial services may be conducted. Near it is a great granite mauso- leum in which repose the bones of 2,111 un- known soldiers gath- ered, after the war, from the battle field of Bull Run, and thence to the Memorial to 2.111 Unknown Dead Rappahaunock. It is Arlington Cemetery SUrrOUudcd by CanUOU 58 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUI D E and bears a memorial inscrip- tion. Near by, in a lovely- glade, is buried Gen. Henry W. Lawton, killed fighting in the Philippines in the Autumn of iSqq. The victims of the destruc- tion of the battleship Maine, in Havana, and several hundred soldiers who lost their lives in Cuba and Porto Rico, during the war wdth S]oain, in 1898, are buried together in the southern part of the cemetery, reached by a pleas- ant road, winding through the peopled woods. Their me- morial is an artistic group consisting of a mast, anchor and cannon from the ill-fated battleship. The Arlington Mansion is a fine example of the architec- ture of its era, and resembles Jefferson's mansion at Mon- ticello. This old home of the Colonial aristocracy is not only closely identified with the annals of early Virginia, but with the Political development of the country. It was bought as a tract of 1,160 acres, for £11,000, by John Custis, who, early in the i8th century, came from the eastern shore to liv'e on his new property. His was one of the "first families of Virginia" in every sense of the word, and possessed great wcahh; but he had various domestic troubles, one of which was, that his high- spirited son, Daniel Parke Custis, insisted Uj^on neglecting a high-born heiress, prepared by his parents for his future consort, and marrying, instead, pretty Martha Dandridge, the Belle of Williamsburg, the Colonial capital. The old gentleman was very angry, until one day, we are told, Martha Dandridge met him at a social gathering, and fairly ca])tivatcd him. The marriage was made and pros])ered, and, when old Custis died, his son and wife came into possession and resided at Arlington, where Daniel soon died, lea\-ing Martha a young widow with two children, John Parke and Eleanor Custis. His will entailed this estate to his son, and divided his other property, the wife receiving, as her share, lands and securities worth, perhaps, Confederate Monument Arlington Cemetery RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 59 $100,000. In due time this rich and blooming widow re-entered society, where she presently became acquainted with a colonial colonel, who had recently achieved miHtary fame in Braddock's expedition against Fort Duquesne. He lived with his mother at Mount Vernon, only fifteen miles below, and his name was George Washington. It was not long before he had wooed and won the channing widow, who laid aside her weeds and went with her two children to live at her husband's home. Together they managed and cared for the Arlington estate, until its young owners should come of age, and both were often there. The daughter died, but the son grew to manhood, received his noble property, married a Calvert, and served upon his stepfather's staf^ during the latter part of the Revolu- tion. Then he, too died ( 1 7 8 1 ) and his two infant children were adopted and deeply loved by Washington. They kept their own names, however, and Nelly, who seemed to have inherited the beauty of her grandmother, married Major Lawrence Lewis, a Virginian. Her brother, George Washing- ton Parke Custis, upon reach- ing his majority, inherited and took possession of Arling- ton, at the beginning of the present century; and immedi- ately began the erection of the present mansion, which there- fore, Washington himself never saw, since he died December 13, 1799, while this house was not completed until 1803. A few months afterward, Mr. Custis married Mary Lee Fitz- hugh, one of the Randolphs, and four children were born to them, but only one survived, a daughter, Mary. The Custis family lived at Arlington, , . . , „ , . , improving and beautifying Mast and Anchor of Battleship Maine, , i . , • • ,■, j Arlington Cemetery ^^^C CStatC, WmmUg thC gOOd Page 58 opiniou of all who knew them, w w^ yjgimm.:: -:::;- * "^' i- - GO RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Amphitheater, Arlington Cemetery Page 57 and entertaining handsomely until the death of Mrs. Custis, in 1853, and of her husband, the last male of his family in 1857. The estate then fell to the daughter, who, meanwhile, had married a young anny officer, Robert E. Lee, son of "Light- horse Harry" Lee, the dashing cavalryman of the Revolution, entwining into the story of the estate another strand of the best fabric of Virginian society. Arlington immediately be- came the home of this officer, and when the Civil War came, and Colonel Lee went with his state out of the Union, his greatest personal sacrifice, no doubt, was the thought of leaving Arlington. Indeed, so little did he foresee that he was going to be the leader of a four-years' struggle, that he took away none of the furniture, and very few even of the great number of relics of Washington, many of intrinsic as well as historic value, which the house contained. Federal troops at once took possession of the estate, and everything of historical value was seized by the Government, so that most of the collection, with other relics, is now to be seen at the National Museum. Arlington could not be confiscated, be- cause entailed; but the non-pa}anent of taxes made a pretext form its sale, when it was bought in by the United States Government for $23,000 which established the military cemetery here in 1864. Wlien, several years after the war, G. W. Custis Lee inherited the estate, he successfully disputed, in the Supreme Court, the legality of the tax-sale, but at once transferred his restored rights to the Government for $150,000, which was paid him in 1884. Three hours will suffice to make this trip satisfactorily. The grounds remain open until sunset. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 61 Soldiers' Home stands in the midst of a noble park, with a wide outlook from high grounds directly north of the Capitol, from which it is distant 4 miles in a straight line. It is a favorite temiinus for driving and motoring, beautiful roads leading thither from the head of Connecticut Ave. or 14th St., and less desirable ones returning through the northeastern quarter of the city. Two lines of street cars approach the Soldiers' Home, giving the tourist an alternate route going and coming; and he should devote the better part of a day to this excursion. The direct route out is by cars north on gth St. to the Eagle or western gate of the Soldiers' Home grounds. This institution is the forerunner and type of those which were erected in various parts of the country after the Ci\dl War, but it is not in the same class. It is an institution estab- lished in 1 85 1 by the efforts of General Winfield Scott, and out of certain funds received from Mexico, as a retreat for veterans of the Mexican War, and for men of the regular army who have been disabled or who, by twenty years of honorable service and a payment of 12 cents a month, have acquired the right of residence there the remainder of their lives. This gives the veterans a pleasing sense of self-support, in addition to which many are able to earn money by working about the buildings and in various ways. There are ordinarily about 500 men there, who live under a mild form of military discipline, wear the uniform of the army, and are governed by veteran officers. The affairs of the Home, which has now a fund of over $1,000,000, and a considerable independent income, are administered by a board composed of the general of the army and his principal assistants at the War Department. On the brow of one of the hills stands a bronze statue of General Scott, by Launt Thompson, erected by the Home in 1874, at a cost of $18,000. Fifty acres are under cultivation, and fine crops of fruits and vegetables are raised. "Near the main building is a large cottage often used by the Presidents of the United States as a summer residence. It is surrounded by noble trees, and has a very attractive appearance. Pierce, Buchanan, Johnson, Hayes, and Arthur have preferred its quiet comfort to the statelier life in the White House." In the rear of the Home, on the wooded slope beyond Hare- wood Road, lies one of the national military cemeteries, entered by an arch upon whose pillars are inscribed the names of great Union commanders in the Civil War. Here rest the remains of about 5,500 Federal and 271 Confederate soldiers, fewer than 300 of whom are unknown. The grounds contain a pretty stone chapel, in which lies the body of General John A. Logan. 62 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Zoological Park. The original idea was not a park for public exhibition purposes but a reservation in which there might be bred and maintained representatives of many American ani- mals threatened with extinction. Congress, however, enlarged and modified this notion by adding the ex- hibition features, mak- ing the place a pleas- ure ground as well as an experiment station. The collection is not very large and there- fore animals must be obtained by gift or ex- change. Captures in the Yellowstone National Park arc per- mitted for the benefit of this garden, and have su])plied many specimens. The hardier animals (except a few antelopes and kangaroos, which have a stable) are quartered out of doors all the year round in wire enclosure scattered about the grounds. The herds of bison, elk and deer were recruited mainly from the Yellowstone Park. In another quarter are to be seen the cages of the wolves, foxes and dogs. The beavers, however, probably constitute the most singular and interesting of all the features of the garden at present. They consist of a colony in the wooded ravine of a little branch of Rock Creek, where they cut down trees, burrow in the banks of the stream, and construct dams and houses, precisely as in a state of nature. The bear dens are the best of their kind in the country, being rude caves blasted out of the clifT left by an abandoned quarry, which fonn natural retreats for their big tenants. Fort Myer is the ])rinci])al military post near Washington; nearly two square miles, with a mile frontage on the Potomac. It was occupied by the military forces when Col. Robert E. Lee resigned from the army in 1861. Officers' quarters. Memorial to Gen'l Philip H. Sheridan, Arlington Cemetery Page 57 RAND M c N A L L Y W A S ?I I N G T O N GUIDE 63 barracks, drill hall, and hospital, on well paved streets, make a model army post. Recently a section has been allotted to the signal corps — a large balloon house, electric buildings, signal apparatus, and officers' and privates' quarters add greatly to the interest visitors show in military works, and to the importance of this United States Reservation. The only rail route to Fort Mycr is by trolley car from Aqueduct Bridge, a distance of 2 miles, and an elevation of 200 feet being traversed in about five minutes. Climbing this terrace of the Potomac Valley are views of the river and its bridges, the Capitol, Washington's Monument, White House, and other Govern- ment buildings. Arriving at the summit station, on one side is seen Arlington National Cemetery with its marble columns embowered amid magnificent oak trees. On the other side the Fort Myer buildings are in contrast, a city of military life. The railway extends 2 miles farther, affording an opportunity of seeing the most prominent and interesting points in the center of Alexandria County. The electric line runs over the bridge to the Pennsylvania Ave. cars. Walking across the bridge affords enjoyable views of beautiful Analostan Island. Capitol Prison, Maryland Ave., ist & A Sts., N. E. Only the walls remain, the enclosure being known as Lanier Place. This was a spacious brick building, hastily erected by the citizens of Washington after the destruction of the Capitol by the British in 1814, to accommodate Congress and hold the national capital here against the renewed assaults of those who wished to move the seat of government elsewhere. Con- Temple of Fame, Arlington Cemetery Page 57 64 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE gress sat in this building until the restored Capitol was ready for them, in 1 82 7 . It was a big, plain, warehouse-like structure, which was turned into a boarding-house after Congress abandoned it, and there Senator John C. Calhoun died in 1850. When the Civil War broke out this building became a military- prison for persons suspected or convicted of aiding and abetting the secession treason to which his influence had so powerfully contributed. Washington was full of Southern s>Tnpathizcrs and spies, and many are the traditions in the old families of days and weeks spent by overzcalous members in "durance vile" within its walls, guarded by the " law-and-order brigade" of the Provost Marshal's office, which formed the police of the capital in those days. Here Wirz, the brutal keeper of Andcrsonville prison, was executed, as well as several other victims of the war. Several years ago it was remodeled into handsome residences, one of which was the home of Mr. Justice Field until his death in 1S99. Continental Memorial Hall, 17th & D Sts., the only build- ing in the world, planned and constructed by women, is the home of the Society of the Daughters of the American Revolu- tion which has a membership of nearly 70,000 women of the purest American strain. Delegates come great distances yearly to attend the Continental Congress on which occasion the President of the United States always greets them. It is an incorporated body making an annual report to the Smith- sonian Institution and officially recognized by the Government. The building is of white marble and cost $350,000. Key Mansion — A large sign painted upon a brick house near the Aqueduct Bridge in Georgetown informs that it was the home of Francis Scott Key, the author of "The Star wS])anglcd Banner," for several years after the war of 181 2. CEMETERIES Oak Hill Cemetery, on the southern bank of Rock Creek, near P St. is a bcautilul burying ground rising in terraces and containing the graves of many distinguished men and women. It is reached by the F St. line. Leaving the cars at 30th St. a walk of two squares north will bring the visitor to the entrance. Near the gateway is the chai)el built in the style of archi- tecture of Henry VIII. This is malted by ivy brought from "Melrose Abbey." In front of the chaix'l is the monument of John Howard Payne, the author of "Home Sweet Home," who had been buried in 1852 in the cemetery near Tunis, Africa, and there remained until, at the expense of Mr. Corcoran, his 1 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE G5 bones were brought to this spot, and in 18S3 were re-interred with appropriate ceremonies. The statue of WilHam Pinckncy is near here also (he was the Protestant Episcopal Bishop of Maryland, and nephew of William Pinckncy, the great Mary- land lawyer). It represents that prelate in full canonical robes, and was dedicated to his memory by Mr. Corcoran, who was the friend of his youth, the comfort of his declining years. The Mausoleum of Mr. Corcoran for his family is a beautiful specimen of mortuary architecture ; it is in the northwestern section of the cemetery, while in the southeastern is the mauso- leum of the Van Ness family, whose leader married the heiress Marcia, daughter of David Burns, one of the original proprietors of the site of Washington City. This tomb is a model of the Temple of the Vesta at Rome. The cemetery comprises twenty-five acres, incorpor- ated in 1849, one-half of which, and an endowment of $90,000, were the dona- tion of Mr. William W. Corcoran. Here were buried Chief Justice Chase, Secre- tary of War Stanton, the great Professor Joseph Henry, and many others illustrious in American Annals. Congressional Cemetery — see churches. Rock Creek Churchyard. In this quaint cemetery are graves and vaults, whose tablets bear the names of the foremost of the- old Maryland families and early Washingtonians. The old- est graves are nearest the church; and one headstone is pitted with marks of minie balls, showing that some soldiers have used it as a convenient target. The cemetery is still used, and contains the bronze statue by St. Gaudens at the grave of Mrs. Adams, — a mys- terious veiled sitting figure "Peace of God" Rock Creek Cemetery 66 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE entitled, "Peace of God,'" which is famous throughout the art world. The monument above the grave of Peter Force is also of much interest. In Mrs. Lockwood's "Historic Homes" will be found a long in- cidental history of this sacred spot and the reHcs still used in the serv- ice of the old church. Gen'l Philip H. Sheridan Sheridan Circle Massachusetts Ave. & R Street Page 74 PARKS, CIRCLES, AND STATUES Note: Reference to other Statues under heading Pennsylvania Avenue. Barry, Commodore John (1745- 1S03). West side of Franklin Park on 14th St. By John Boyle. Cost $50,000. Born in Ireland. Naval officer distinguished for services in the Revolutionary War. Commander of the Lexington at the age of 3 1 . Appointed Commodore in 1794. Butt-Millet Fountain (a drinking fountain) located in the "White Lot," in the rear of the Executive Mansion. A memorial to the late Archibald Butt (1865-1912) and Francis Davis Millet (1S46-1912), lost on the ill-fated Titanic. Butt was Captain Q. M. volunteer service; Captain Q. M. regular army. Aide to Presidents Roosevelt and Taft. Millet was a drummer boy in the Civil War. Artist and author. News- paper correspondent Russian-Turkish War and at Manilla dtu'- ing vSpanish War. Director of decorations Columbian Exposition 1893. Columbus Memorial (about 1 450-1 506). Union Station Plaza. By Lorado Taft. Cost $100,000. Daguerre, Louis Jacques Mande (1 789-1851). On the Smithsonian Grounds. French painter and in- ventor of the daguerreotype photo- graphic process, by Jonathan Scott Hartley. Dupont, Admiral Samuel F, (180V1865). Bronze statue in the center of Dupont Circle, Massachu- ^^" iVvTa^atcie "^""^ setts and New Hampshire Avcs. Vermont &Rhod7iriand Aves. Designed by Launt Thompson, Page 71 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE G7 cost $20,500, and was unveiled in 1884. A popular officer of the navy during the Civil War. Entered the navy at the age of 1 2 ; commander at 39. Fought in the Mexican War. President of the board which devised plans of operations against the Confederate states. Commanded naval forces in the capture of Port Royal. Made Rear-Admiral in 1862. Emancipation. In Lincoln Square, the most beautiful thing is the lofty, symmetrical sycamore tree in the center; but the most noted object is the l3ronze Statue Monument to the Emancipation of the Slaves, erected by contributions from the colored frecdmen of the United States. One of the inscribed tablets upon the pedestal informs us that the first contribution was the first free earnings of Charlotte Scott, a freed woman of Virginia, at whose suggestion, on the day of Lincoln's death, this monument fund was begun. This statue, twelve feet high, was cast in Munich at an expense of $21,000, and was unveiled on April 14, 1876, the eleventh anniversary of Lincoln's assassina- tion, Frederick Douglas making the oration. Designed by Thomas Ball. Farragut, Admiral David Glascoe ("Old Salamander") (iSoi- 1870). The statue in Farragut Sq., 17th, I and K Sts., represents him as standing upon the deck of his flagship Hartford, from whose propeller the metal of which the statue is .composed was taken. It was cast in 1S80, after models by Mrs. Lieutenant Hoxie, then Miss Vinnie •v 1 J- Lafayette Meniorial ne of the signers of the Declaration g. E. Comer Lafayette Square of Independence. Very active Page 70 74 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE during yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia. Active in establishing Dickinson Col- lege. An early apponcnt of the liquor traffic. Scott, Gen'l Winfield, the victor in the Mexican war (i 786-1866). Equestrian stat- ue, was erected in 1874, Scott Circle, Massachusetts and Rhode Island Aves. Modeled by H. K. Brown, and cast in Philadelphia from cannon cap- tured in Mexico. The pedestal is of granite from Cape Ann quarries, and is composed of five huge blocks said to be the largest ever quarried in the United States. The entire cost $77,000. General Scott is represented in the uniform of his rank as Licutenant-Gen- eral. Admitted to the bar 181 2. Captain of artillery U. S. A. at the age of 22. Dis- tinguished in the War of 1 8 1 2 at Queenstown and Lundy's Lane. Served against the Semi- noles and Creeks. Major-General and Commander-in-Chief 1 84 1. Commanded the invasion of Mexico in 1847 which terminated with the victory at Chapultepec. Directed the operations of the Union Army until November 1861, Scott, Gen'l Winfield. A bronze statue by Launt Thompson, on the brow of one of the hills in the grounds of the Soldier's Home, erected by the Home in 1874, at a cost of $18,000. Shepherd, Alex. R. (183 5-1 902), by U. S. J. Dunbar. Gov- ernor of Washingtcn when it was a territorial organization. Identified with expensive public improvements. Plaza of Munici])al Building. Sheridan, Gen'l Philip 11.(1831-1888). Sheridan Circle. By Gutzon Borglum. Cost, $50,000. West Point graduate. First- Lieutenant 1861. Colonel of cavalry 1862. Made Brigadier- General of volunteers in 1862 for notable service at Boone\'ille. Major-General of volunteers 1862. Fought at Chickamauga, Chattanooga, the Wilderness, Spottsylvania, and Cold Harl)or. Commanded the Amiy of the Shenandoah; was victorious John Paul Jones Potomac Park Foot 17th Street Driveway Page 69 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 75 at Winchester and for successes at Fisher's Hill and Cedar Creek was promoted to Brigadier-General and Major-General U. S. A. Fought at Waynesboro, Five Forks, and Appomat- tox Court House, Succeeded Sherman as Lietitenant-General. Defeated the Indians 1 868-1 869. As the guest of the King of Prussia he accompanied the headquarters of the German Army during the Franco-Gcmian War. Succeeded Sherman as General in 1883. "Sheridan's Ride" was from Winchester to Cedar Creek, — twenty miles. Thomas, Gen'l George H. (1816-1870). Bronze statue, was erected in Thomas Circle, Massachusetts and Vermont Aves., with great ceremony in 1879, by the Society of the Army of the Cumberland, which paid $40,000 for the design and the casting. The pedestal, which bears the bronze insignia of the Army of the Cumberland, and its ornamental lamps were furnished by Congress, at an expense of $25,000. The statue is itself nineteen feet in height. Designed by J. Q. A. Ward. West Point graduate. Fought in the Seminole and Mexican wars. Instructor at West Point. Rose from major of volunteer cavalary to Major-General in the regular army, receiving with the last-named appointment the thanks of Congress. The "Rock of Chickamauga" and hero of Nashville. Von Steuben, Baron, Friedrich Wilhelm August Heinrich Ferdinand (i 730-1 794), by Albert Jaegers, N. W. corner of Lafayette Sq. Cost $50,000. A volunteer in Austrian Succes- sion War at fourteen. Drilled inexperienced soldiers at Valley Forge in 1778. Distinguished for active service at the battle m tt " ■ - "■ ^ilim^ i . HffWiL^BI ra hHIHI BWtS V ""^^^^ifr !V| ■■ *<■ " '^Ik^ i J ^ iXj I^^^^^^HH HnSBB^^I i#/" HI ^ »♦ ' 91 H Thomas Circle Massachusetts and Vermont Aves. 76 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Memorial to Hahnemann, Scott Circle Massachusetts and Rhode Island Aves. Page 68 of Monmouth. Member of Court Martial which tried Major Andre. Several states gave him grants of lands for his valu- able services. Congress voted thanks, a gold hilted sword, and a pension of $2,400. Washington, George (i 732-1 790). Facing the main en- trance to the Capitol. By Horatio Greenough. It was ordered by Congress in 1832, to signalize the centennial anniversary of Washington's birth, the only restriction upon the execution of the plan being that it should not be equestrian, and that the countenance should conform to that of the Houdon statue. Greenough's price of $20,000 was accepted and he devoted the principal part of his time for eight years to its comple- tion. The intention was to place this statue in the center of the rotunda, over the mausoleum provided for Washington in the undercroft; but by the time it was completed and had been brought here in a special ship (1841), the idea of plac- ing the lioncs of Washington in the Capitol had been abandoned , and it was decided to leave it out-of-doors. It is covered in winter to protect it from the weather. Washington, George. — Equestrian bronze statue in Wash- ington Circle, Pennsylvania Ave. & K St., was modeled and cast by Clark Mills, and erected at a cost of $50,000. The artist is said to have intended to represent him as he appeared at the battle of Princeton. Webster, Daniel ( 1 782-1852). Scott Circle. G. Trcntanove. Witherspoon, John (1722-1794). Scottish- American Di\inc, President of Princeton Uni\'ersity. Member of Continental Congress and the only clergyman to sign the Declaration of Independence. Connecticut Ave. and i8th St. Designed b\' Wm. Couper. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 77 LIBRARIES AND ART GALLERIES Note: National Gallery of Art. Page 119 Library of Congress. The Library of Congress was estab- lished in iSoo, destroyed in iSj^4 by the burning of the Capitol, afterwards^eplenished by the purchase by Congress of the library of ex-President Jefferson, 6,760 volumes (cost $23,950); in 1 85 1, 35,000 volumes destroyed by fire; in 1852, p^artially replenishecT^y an appropriation of $75,000; increased (i) by regular appropriations by Congress; (2")~"b}rdeposits under the copyright law; (3) by gifts and exchanges; (4) by the exchanges of the Smithsonian Institution, the Hbrary of which (40,000 volumes) was, in 1866, deposited in the Library of Congress with the stipulation that future accessions should follow it. One hundred sets of government publications are at the dis- posal of the Library of Congress for exchange, through the Smithsonian, with foreign governments, and from this source are received about 12,000 volumes annually. Library of Congress The collection is now the largest on the Western Hemisphere and the third in the world. It comprised at the end of the fiscal year (June 30, 19 13) about 3,128,255 printed books and pamphlets (including the law library of 158,117 volumes, which, a division of the Library of Congress, still remains at the Capitol), 135,223 maps and charts, 625,098 pieces of music, and 360,494 photographs, prints, engravings, and litho- graphs. It includes various special collections eminent in their respective fields. The collection of manuscripts, touching every period of American history, includes the papers of nine of the Presidents 78 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE ^ n—ri I r I fM f/,i UJI r/j tt -MANuscRiPTS.il ORDER DIVISION I I r I I I I I I I 1 I I I 1' I r n CATALOGUE DIVISION II "T^ I I I 1 I I I I I I I 1 I I I 1 I ■ N. E. 'A PAVILION, MAIN ENTRANCE First Floor Plan. Library of Congress J' 'I I I I Ml III ; ;i I [ y OOCUME ii.'i v-nri V I I J 11 It T-rf j \\ Itasi) i"i n n i i f r n n i i SMITHSONIAN COLLECTION Q P 1 I' l'"J I'l II I I II l"l VI l'^ N. E. COURT M I I 11 U ilMM 11 I - _ NORTH. STACK- I' I n II I 1 1 1 1 I I.I rm N. W. COURT -^ °i° o^l t I i/,i ^^:.^ kvi i. 'j irn 5 'Q "I I' "I I' I 4 ^/^Jiii' 1 1 i i/i 1' 1 i:"i fj n CARD SECTION r^ irA I I n r'l r'l i"i r'l i"i i S. E. COURT "I r I ML"' ^; i ^ S E. PAVILION I I 1 1 I I I M I I N I I I ITTT SOUTH -STACK I M I I I I I I I I 11 I 1 I I I I S. W. COURT 1 VI r ■ir.^i-iM 11 rlt< y^. i, w. \: 0. PAVILI0N2U n 1 1 ,] I 1 1 I I I I 1 1 tfl^o 3 v-/ I ii"i"r'ii' ' Rand MtNall; Jt Cu., Cblci Second Floor Plan. Library of Congress Page 77 FIRST FLOOR, THE LIBRARY OF MAIN ENTRANCE IIALI.. South lorrldiir. Paintings by H. O. Walker. 1. Lyric Poetry. 2. C'omus. 3. Adonis. 4. Ganymede. 5. Endymion. 6. The Boy of Winander. 7. Uriel. 8. "The Poets Who on Earth Have Made Us Heirs of Truth and Pure Delight by Heavenly Lays." lorridor Lending: South From nain Entrnuee Hall. Paintings by W. McEwen. 1. Paris. 2. Jason. 3. Bellerophon. 4. Orpheus. rt. Perseus. 6. Prometheus. 7. Theseus. 8. Achilles. 9. Hercules. HOrSE READINtJ ROOM. Mosaics by Frederick Dial- man, A Law. B History. HOI'SE RKADINti K(I()]I— Cont. by Carl Ceiling Paintings Gutherz. 1. Creation of Light. 2. Light of Excellence. 3. Light of Poetry. 4. Light of State. 5. Research, The Light of. 6. Truth, The Light of 7. Science, The Light of MAIN EXTRAXCE HALL— Cunt. East Corridor. Paintings by John W. Alex- ander. (The Evolution of the Book.) 1. The Cairn. 2. Oral Tradition. 3. Hieroglyphics. 4. Picture Writing. 5. The Manuscript Book. 6. The Printing Press. Yi>6tiliulp to Ri-adini: Room. Paintings by Elihu Vedder. 1. Anarchy. 2. Corrupt Legislation. 3. Government. 4. Good Administration. 5. Peace and Prosperity. CONGRESS Norlli Corridor. Paintings by Charles Sprague Pearce. 1. The Family. 2. Recreation. 3. Study. 4. Labor. 5. Religion. 6. "Give Instruction Unto Those Who Cannot Procure It for Themselves." 7. Rest. Corridor Lfadini: North Fioio Main Entranrr Ihill. Paintings by Edward Sim- mons. 3. Melpomene. Clio. Thalia. 4. Euterpe. 5. Terpsichore. 6. Erato. 7. Polyhymnia. 8. Urania. 9. Calliope. NORTHWEST PAVILION. Paintings by R, L. Dodge. SECOND FLOOR, THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS East Corridor. Paintings by George R. Barse, Jr. 1. Lyrica. 2. Tragedy. 3. Comedy. 4. History. 5. Erotica. 6. Tradition. 7. Fancy. 8. Romance. Paintings by William A. Mackay. 9. Atropos. 10. Lachesis. 11. Clotho. North Corridor. Paintings by Robert Reid. 1. Taste. 2. Sight. 3. Smell. 4. Hearing. ."). Touch. 6. Wisdom. 7. Understanding. 8. Knowledge. 9. Philosophy. West Corridor. Paintings by Walter Shirlaw. 1. Archeology. 2. Botany. 3. Astronomy. 4. Chemistry. 5. Geology. 6. Mathematics. 7. Physics. 8. Zoology. South Corridor. Paintings by F. W. Benson. 1. Spring. 2. Summer. 3. Autumn. 4. Winter. 5. Aglaia. 6. Thalia. 7. Euphrosyne. Pompeiian Panels by G. W. Maynard. A Fortitude. R Justice. C Concordia. O Industry. E Patriotism. F Courage. G Temperance H Prudence Corridor I.eiidin Main Entr.i South re Ilsli. Paintings by Kenyon Cox. 1. The Sciences. 2. The Arts. SOUTHWEST PAVILION. Painting by G. W. Maynard. 1. Adventure. 2. Discovery. 3. Conquest. 4. Civilization. 5. Courage — Valor — Fortitude — Achieve- ment. Medallions by Bela L. Pratt A Seed. B Bloom. C Fruit. D Decay. SOITHEAST PAVILION. Paintings by R. L. Dodge. 1. Earth. 2. Water. 3. Fire. 4. Air. Painting by Elmer E. Garnsey. 5. Ceiling Disc. Medallions by Bela L. Pratt. A Ver. B Aestas. C Auctumnus. D Hiems. NOKTIIEAST PAVILI»»N. Paintings by W. B. Van Ingen. 1. Agriculture and Inter- ior Departments. 2. War and Navy Departments. 3. Justice and Post Offlce Departments. 4. Treasury and State Departments. Painting by Elmer E. Garnsey. .5. Ceiling Disc. Medallions by Bela L. Pratt. A Spring. B Summer. C Autumn. D Winter. NOKTIIWEST PAVILION. Paintings by William de L. Dodge. 1. Science. 2. Art. 3. Music. 4. Literature. 5. Ambition. Medallions by Bela L. Pratt. A Spring. B Summer. C Autumn. D Winter. Corridor Leadiugr North Froui Main Entranrc Hall. Paintings by Gari Melchers 1. War. 2. Peace. STAIRWAY TO (JALLEKY OF READI.Mi ROOM. Paintings by W. B. Van Ingen. 1. W. H. Prescott. 2 J. J. Audubon. Mosaic by Elihu Vedder. 3. Minerva. ROTl NDA. 1. Bacon. 2. Michael Angelo. 3. Art. 4. Beethoven. 5. Herodotus, (i. History. 7. Gil)bon. 8. Columbus. 9. Commerce. 10. Fulton. 11. St Paul. 12. Religion. 13. Moses. 14. Xewton. 15. Science. 16. Henry. 17. i^olon. 18. Law. 19. Kent. 20. Shakespeare. 21. Poetry. 22. Homer. 23. Plato. 24. Philosophy. 80 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE and the records of the Continental Congress, with numerous other important groups — poUtical, miHtary, naval, and com- mercial. The Smithsonian deposit is strong in scientific works, and includes the largest assemblage of the transactions of learned societies which exists in this country. The building cost $6,347,000; the land, $585,000. Opened to the public November, 1897. -7^ The building occupies ^^i acres, upon a site of 10 acres in extent at a distance of 1,270 feet east of the Capitol, and is the largest and most magnificent library building in the world. The floor space is 430,255 square feet, or nearly 10 acres. /Ly The book stacks contain a total of about 100 miles of shelv- ing, with a capacity of 3,540,000 octavo volumes of books and 84,000 volumes of newspapers. The Library is maintained by annual appropriations of Congress for various purposes, including the purchase of books. For the year 1913-14, these amounted to $806,085, including allotment for printing and binding, $200,000. Library Service. Library proper, 254 employes; Copyright Office, 91; distribution of catalogue cards, 40; disbursement service and care of building and grounds, 128. Total, j^. Inter-Library Loans. While but a reference library primarily and essentially, the Library of Congress maintains an inter-library loan system, by which special ser\'ice «is rendered to scholarship by the lending of books to other libraries for the use of investigators engaged in serious research which it is not within the power or duty of the library in question to supply, and which, at the time, are not needed in Washington. There is but a limited free distribution of publications. Publications which are costly and pcmianent contributions to knowledge are priced and placed on sale with the superin- tendent of documents. Copyright Office. The Copyright Office is a distinct divi- sion of the Library of Congress and is located on the ground floor, south side; open 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. It is under the immediate charge of the Register of Co]3yrights, who, by the act of March 4, 1909, is authorized, "uncler the direction and supervision of the Lil^rarian of Congress," to perform all the duties relating to cojiyrights. Copyright registration was transferred to the Librarian of Congress by the act of July 8, 1870. Of mo.st articles copyrighted two copies, and of some one copy, niust be deposited to perfect copyright. Books, maps, musical coinpositions, photographs, periodicals, and RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 81 other articles so deposited, numbered, during the fiscal year 191 2-13, 215,595 articles. Copyright fees applied and paid into the treasury for the fiscal year, 19 12-13, amounted to $114,980.60. Hours. On week days (except legal holidays) the library building main reading room, periodical reading room, and law library are open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.; other parts of the library, from 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. On Sundays and certain legal holidays, the building, main reading room, periodical reading room, division of prints, music division, and map division are open from 2 to 10 p.m; the librarian's office and the office of the chief clerk from 2 to 6 p.m. The public is privileged to use the books within the library rooms, while only members of Congress and about thirty offi- cials of the Government may take them away. As long ago as 1872 efforts were made to provide the library with a separate building; but it was not until 1897 that this laudable purpose was accomplished. The fact that the librarian has charge (since 1870) of the copyright business of the Govern- ment, and that this library is given and compelled to receive two copies of every book, picture, or other article copyrighted, makes its growth as rapid and steady as the progress of the American press, and enforces the need for ample space. Work was begun in 1886, but in 1888 it was placed in the hands of Gen. T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, U. S. A., under whose charge, and the superintendence of Bernard R. Green, C. E., the magnificent edifice was perfected. The architectural plans, originally by J. J. Smithmeyer and Paul J. Pelz, were modified later by E. P. Casey, who completed the building and its decoration. As to the interior, Mr. Casey was assisted by Elmer E. Garnsey, in charge of the color decorations, and by Albert Weinert as to the stucco work; both gentlemen should receive credit for much beautiful unassigned work. / The style is Italian Renaissance modified; and the result is one of the noblest edifices externally, and the most artistic one inside, of all the grand buildings at the Capital. Its ground plan is an oblong square, inclosing four courts and a rotunda. Its outside dimensions are J70 by 3^}^ feet, and it covers 3^ acres of ground. The material is Concord (N. H.) granite, on the exterior, and enameled brick within the courts, while the framework is of steel, and the walls on the interior are encased and decorated wholly by stucco and marble. The octagonal rotunda, lighted by the four courts, is built of gray Maryland granite, and crowned by a roof-dome of copper, the dome heavily gilded, and terminating 195 feet above the ground in a 82 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE ►/ \ 0^„ ^ 1^^ ^. flE^ ^ ''!!^H 1^1 Li I^B Neptune's Fountain Library of Congress gilded torch typify- ing Learning. The general effect of such a building is of massiveness dis- proportionate to height, but this is relieved by "pavil- ions' ' at the comers, by elaborate en- trances, numerous windows, and the high ornamentation of the exterior cornices, window casings, etc. " JThe decorations are wholly the work of American archi- tects, painters, and sculptors, more than fifty of whom participated in the work; so that the library is an exhibit and memorial of the native art and ability of the citizens of the United States. /n\ The approaches and entrance to the library are on the west- ern front, facing the Capitol, where a grand staircase leads up to the doorways of the central pa\'ilion admitting one upon the main floor. The Basement may be entered by a door beneath this stair- case, and an elevator will be found by which the \asitor may ascend to the top of the building; but the most interesting and proper approach is by ascending the grand staircase to the main entrance. A survey of the fagade should be made before doing so, not only to gain a general idea of the architecture, but especially to note the ethnological heads carved upon the keystones of the thirty-three arched windows, since these are a novel inno- vation upon the gorgons, etc., usually employed in such places. These heads are studied and accurate types of the principal races of mankind, modeled by H. J. Ellicott and Wm. Boyd, under the criticism of Prof. O. T. Mason of the National Muse- um; they are as important as they arc novel, and arc grouped according to kinship. The first thing to attract attention, however, is LX.h£.^2^Alldiu , on the street front of the staircase, which was designed by R. II. Perry and is the most elaborate thing of its kind in the country. Its broad semi-circular ba.vin con- tains a dozen bronze figures grouped upon natural roclcs half hidden in niches of the terrace, representing a group of Tritons RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 83 and creatures of the sea attendant upon Neptune, the pre- siding genius of the sea- world. From their mouths, or from the "wreathed horns," they are blowing spout jets of water. The central figure is a colossal image of the kingly sea-god, and on each side sea-nymphs bestriding spirited sea-horses are heralding his glory. Sea-serpents, turtles, and other denizens of the deep play about his feet and throw cross-lines of water that catch the sunlight at every angle. ■/ Passing up the flights of broad granite steps, it will be noted that the front of the central pavilion consists of three entrance arches, suniiounted by a portico, and against its circular upper windows are placed nine portico busts of great literati, as follows, beginning on the left: Demosthenes, Scott, Dante (by Herbert Adams), Goethe, Franklin, Macaulay (by F. W. Ruckstuhl), Emerson, Irving, Hawthorne (by J. Scott Hartley). The balustrades bear splendid bronze candelabra, modeled by Bela L. Pratt, which illuininate the stairway at night; and the same sculptor modeled the fine carvings over the three entrance arches, in which Literature, Science and Art (reading, as always in this book, from left to right) typified by pairs of life-size figures leaning against the curve of the arches, and accompanied by appropriate symbols — a writing tablet and a book, the torch of knowledge and a globe, and the mallet of sculpture and palette and brush of painting, respectively. The Bronze Doors with- in the entrance arches admit us to the main en- trance hall of the library. These doors are worthy of study, and together em- body the development of recorded knowledge from prehistorical tradition and bardic tales to the mod- ern preservation of history and science by printing. The first door, at the left, means Tradition. Its tympanum was modeled by the late Olin L. Warner, in a manner suggesting a wise woman of prehistoric times relating the tradi- tion of her ancestors to an or. Bronze Door eager child. Among her Main Entrance. Library of Congress 84 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON (}UIDE auditors are an American Indian (whose face is that of Joseph, chief of the Nez Perces), a Norseman, a man of the stone age, and a shepherd, representative of the pastoral races. Imagination and Memory are de- picted in the panels on the left and right valves of the door itself. With a similar idea Mr. Warner also figured a wo- man, over his door at the right, teach- ing children the Art of Writing, while the four peoples of the world — Egypt- ian, Jew, Christian, and Greek — whose literatures have been most influential, are typified in attentive figures. On the double door are Research, at the left, and Truth (with symboHc mirror and serpent), at the right. This door was unfinished at the time of Mr. Warner's death and was completed by Mr. Herbert Adams. In the tympanum of the central door, by Frederick Mac- monnics, is typified the Art of Printing. Minerva, goddess of learning, is sending books to the world by her winged mes- sengers; while Pegasus, the embodiment of poetry, and the filial stork and euiblems of the printer's art (ars typographica) are seen at the left and right. The female figures upon the double door stand for The Humanities and Intellect. A corridor along the west front of the pavilion, fonning a vestibule, extends between piers of Italian marble sui)]i()rting arches, against which, on heavy brackets, are repeated i)airs of figures, — Minerva in War, and Minerva in Peace, the fonner bearing a sword and torch, the latter a scroll and globe. The electric lamp standard between them is a Greek altar. Like Central Stair Hall Library of Congress Page 85 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 85 "America and Africa" Grand Staircase Library of Congress the elaborate ceiling, and all other ornaments here, they are modeled in stucco, which is lavishly touched with gold. Main Entrance Hall. Its floor is a lovely mosaic of colored mar- bles, surrounding a brass-rayed disk show- ing the points of the compass ; and this floor, as elsewhere, is made to harmonize in design and tint with the remainder of the decoration. The farther (east- ern) wall is broken by a noble Ionic doorway, forming a sort of triumphal arch, whose entablature is inscribed with the names of the builders; it admits, by a passage described elsewhere, to the public reading-room, and the carved figures by (Warner) on its arch personify Study: On the left a youth eager to learn, on the right an aged man contemplating the fruits of knowledge. X Overhead, the hall is open to the roof, 72 feet above. All of the sculpture is the work of Philip Martiny. On the grand staircases, nude figures of infants and elves, represent by their symbols some art, industry, or idea. On the right (south) from the bottom up, go a Mechanician, a Hunter, Bacchus, a Farmer, a Fisherman, Mars, a Chemist, and a Cook; on the left, a Gardener, a Naturalist, a Student, a Printer, a Musician, a Physician, an Electrician, and an Astronomer. The groups, perched upon pilasters of the buttresses, illustrate the continents and their inhabitants. On the right (south side) of the hall, beside the map of Africa and America, sit two chubby boys — one in the feather headdress and other accouterments of an American Indian, and the other showing the dress and arms of an African. Opposite, beside their globe are similar boys, person- "Europe and Asia" ifying Asia, in Grand staircase Library of Congress 86 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE "Lyric Poetry" Main Entrance, South Corridor, First Floor, Library of Congress Mongolian robes, and Europe, in classic gown surrounded by types of civilization indicating the pre-eminence of the Cau- casian race in Architecture, Literature, and Music. The figures of children set in relief upon the balustrade of the top landing on each side, signify Comedy, Poetry, and Tragedy; Painting, Architecture, and Sculpture. The tablets on the ceiling of the main entrance hall, bear the names of illustrious authors, and a great number of symbols of the arts and sciences: Longfellow, Tennyson, Gibbon, Cooper, Scott, Hugo, Cervantes, Dante, Homer, Milton, Bacon, Aristotle, Goethe, Shakespeare, Moliere, Moses and Herodotus. First Floor Halls and Corridors. The tablets bearing the names of literati, and various trophies are pleasingly introduced. The paintings in the South Corridor are by H. O. Walker. The principal one upon the large t}Tnpanum at the east end, represents Lyric Poetry standing in a wood striking a lyre, and surrounded by Pathos, Truth (nude, of course), Devotion, Beauty, and playful Mirth. Li the smaller spaces Mr. Walker has painted "flushed Ganymede .... half buried in the eagle's down," the Endymion of Keats' poem, lying on Mt. Patmos, under the glance of his lover Diana (the moon) ; The Boy, of Wordsworth's well-known poem; Emerson, as typified in his poem " Uriel"; Milton as suggested by "Comus", particularly the lines: Can any mortal mixture of earth's moKl, Breathe sueh divine, enchanting ravislimcnt? The next illustrates "Adonis" of Shakespeare; and a broad border of figures portraying Wordsworth's lines: 'Hie poets, who on earth have made us heirs Of trutli and jiure dehglit by heavenly lays! RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 87 The names tableted on this border are of the great lyric poets — Longfellow, Lowell, Whittier, Bryant, Whitman, and Poe (American), and Browning, Shelley, Byron, Musset, Hugo, Heine, Theocritus, Pindar, Anacreon, Sappho, Catullus, Horace, Petrarch, and Ronsard. The mosaic ceilings in the corridors surrounding the main entrance hall are from cartoons by H. T. Schlademiundt, after designs by E. P. Casey. The corridor along the interior of the building, looking out upon the southwest court, to the reading-rooms reserved for Senators and Representatives, and the public reading-room or periodical room, were decorated by Walter McEwen. Each painting gives an incident characterizing a myth, as follows, from north to south: 1. Paris, who won Helen by giving the prize of beauty to Venus, sitting at her home and conversing with her father, Menelaus, King of Sparta, preparatory to taking Helen back with him to Troy. 2. Jason recruiting his Argonauts for the voyage to recover the Golden Fleece, beneath which is inscribed: One equal temper of heroic hearts made weak by time and fate, But strong in will to strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield. 3. Bellerophon accepting from Minerva the bridle for his winged horse Pegasus, by whose aid he is to slay the Chimaera. 4. Orpheus slain by the Maenads, or priestesses of Bacchus, in one of their orgies, because he would not play upon his marvelous lyre hymns of praise to Bacchus. A glorious company, the flower of men to serve as model For the mighty world, and be the fair beginning of a time. 5. Perseus turning to stone Polydetes and his court, by means of the head of the Gorgon Medusa. 6. Prometheus warning his brother Epimetheus against accepting the mis- chievous Pandora from the gods; but the admonition was not heeded, Pandora's box was opened, and all the ills of the world let loose. The inscription is: To the souls of fire, I, Pallas Ath- "Perseus" ena, give more fire; Corridor Leading South from And to those who are manful, a Main Entrance Hall, First Floor, might more than man's. Library of Congress 88 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE House Reading Room Library of Congress 7. Theseus, who had killed the Minotaur and rescued Ariadne from Crete, is here about to desert her on the island of Naxon at the comrnand of Minerva. 8. Achilles discovered by Ulysses at the court of the King of Scyros, where he had been sent by his mother to grow up among the women in order to keep him from the dangers of war. Beneath it are the lines from Byron's "Childe Harold": Ancient of days, august Athena, where are thy men of might, thy grand in Soul.'' Gone — glim- mering through the dreams of things that were. 9. Hercules in the guise of a woman spinning for Qmphale, Queen of Lydia. vL The House Reading-Room, opening from this corridor, is ' exclusively for the use of members of the House of Represent- atives. "No apartment in the library," remarks Mr. Herbert Small, "is more lavishly and sumptuously ornamented. The carved oak tympanums over the three doors are by Mr. Charles H. Niehaus. At either end of the room is a magnificent mantel of Siena marble." The mosaic panels representing, at one end of the room Law, and at the other. History, are by Mr. Frederick Dielman. They were made in Venice, and are superior examples of his exquisite and peculiar art whose home is in northern Italy. The ceiling paintings, by Carl Gutherz, fill seven panels. The series idealizes the Spectrum of Sunlight. In the center is the first, yellow — the Creation of Light; second, next north, orange — the Light of Intelligence; third, red — the Light of Poetry; fourth, violet — Light of State, the United States being regarded as embodying the highest expres- sion of government, and suitably represented by the violet color, which is formed by a combination of red, white, and blue; next in order (south of the center) follow green — Research; blue — Truth; and indigo — Science. The cherubs in the corner of each panel typify attributes of each subject." y- The Senate Reading-Room, at the end of the corridor, / occupies the southwest pavilion, and is another lavishly dec- orated and furnished apartment. A carved panel over the door (by Herbert Adams), and a series of figures bearing garlands (by W. A. Mackay), gracefully enliven the golden ceiling. This room is visible only as a special privilege. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 89 The Periodical or Public Reading-Room occupies the great hall along the south side of the building and is entered from this curtain corridor. It contains newspapers from all parts of the Union and from many foreign countries, and an unrivaled series of weekly and monthly periodicals. Main Entrance East Corridor. Paintings by John W. Alex- ander illustrating The Evolution of the Book. The series begins at south end of hall with the erection of the Cairn — the rudest means pre-historic men took to commemorate an event or transmit the knowledge of something. The next picture illustrates Oral Tradition — an Arab story-teller of the desert. The third an Egyptian carver of hieroglyphics, at work upon a tomb, while a young girl watches him. These three are the forerunners of the Book, the later developments of which are depicted opposite. Picture-writing, the first step above carved hieroglyphics, is illustrated by an American Indian painting some tribal record upon a skin; the next advance is shown by the figure of a monk, sitting by a window of his cell, laboriously illuminating some sacred book in the days of the Middle Ages ; and lastly the rise of modern methods appears in a scene in the shop of Gutenberg, the first printer, who stands examining a proof sheet, while an assistant looks on and an apprentice works the lever of a primitive hand press. These are among the most pop- ularly interesting pic- tures in the library, and are accompanied by the names of Americans (all born in the United States) distinguished in arts and sciences, the specialty of each two denoted by trophies. On the pendenti\'es of the ceiling are inscribed Latrcbe and Walter / 1 -j^ j^ \ /-^ 1 North Corridor (architecture) ; Cook i-. . n i -u c r- ^ 1 „.„. y ' ^^^'^ First Floor, Library of Congress and Silliman (natural Page 92 90 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 'The Cairn "Pictograph" 'Oral Tradition' "Manuscript "Hieroglyphics" "Printing Press" 'The Evolution of the Book" Main Entrance, East Corridor First Floor, Library of Congress Page 89 philosophy) ; Mason and Gottschalk (music) ; Stuart and Allston (painting) ; Powers and Crawford (sculpture) ; Bond and Ritten- house (astronomy) ; Francis and Stevens (engineering) ; Emerson and Holmes (poetry) ; Say and Dana (natural science) ; Pierce and Bowditch (mathematics). In the mosaic of the vault are written the names of other Americans eminent in the three learned professions: Medicine — Cross, Wood, IMcDowell, Rush and Warren ; Theology — Brooks, Edwards, Mather, Channing, Beecher; Law — Curtis, Webster, Hamilton, Kent, Pinkney, Shaw, Taney, Marshall, Story and Gibson, with an impressive RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 91 series of allegorical paintings embodying the idea of government in a manner that has aroused the highest admiration of all artists, and conveys food for deep thought. v^ Vestibule to Reading Room. The central painting over the /^reading-room door is a conception of republican government in its noblest estate. That upon its right exhibits how good administration (the first) leads to peace and prosperity (the second) ; contrasted with and opposite these are two vivid paintings portraying corrupt legislation, resulting in anarchy. y^The ideal of government is typified in the figure of a grave- •^ faced woman who sits upon a throne beneath the shade of the steadfast oak; the bridle held by one of the attendant youths signifies the restraint of law, the books of the other the requirements of intelligence in the citizen. > Wh\ ), I jk< k.' >A '):■] ;, 1 j|~). ' )■ ' ;■:« ).■ \ M M M J. f ;^y.i )AM^iMMMM!, "History" Mosaic, Mantel House Reading Room, Library of Congress Page 88 Mr. Elihu Vedder has adorned the five tympanums in the entrance to the reading-room. I' Corrupt legislation exhibits a woman of careless and corrupt mien, sitting upon a throne whose arms are cornucopias of money. She rejects the appeal of her poverty-stricken subjects for help, and in place of the even balance of justice holds a sliding scale that will easily lend itself to bribery — indicated by the bag of gold a rich man is placing in its pan. The voting urn is overturned, spilling its neglected ballots, and wealth is piled at the foot of the throne. In the background the factories of the rich are active and prosperous, while opposite the industries of the poor are idle. Anarchy is the result of such government, and is repre- sented raving with torch and wine cups upon the ruins of the State. / 92 RAND M c N A T. L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE "Religion" Main Entrance, North Corridor, First Floor Library of Congress On the other hand, good administration is a benign, yet powerful personage, sitting upon a seat whose soHdity is typified by the arch at its back, dispensing even justice. At her right, a figure winnows grain above a voting urn, selecting carefully the wheat (good men) from the chaff in the filling of public offices; while at her left, an educated citizenship confinns such choice by the ballot. The beneficent sequel to this, peace and prosperity, is displayed in the last of the series, where arts and agriculture flourish under government's fostering care. The North Corridor contains seven wall paintings by Charles S. Pearce. The most important fills the great j)anel at the east end, and depicts an idealization of The Family, under such circumstances as the poets imagine exist in Arcadia. The father has returned from hunting and the mother holds out the baby for his greeting, while other children and the aged parents cease their occupations to join in the welcome. On the south wall is one picture only. Rest; while opposite, reading from left to right, are four, entitled RcHgion, La])or, Study, Recreation. An exquisite border at the end presents artistically an apothegm of Confucius: "Give instruction unto those who can not procure it for themselves." The whole idea is of a quiet, rational, uplifted manner of life, and the names accompanying these scenes are those of the great educators of the world — Froebel, Pestalozzi, Rousseau, Comcnius, Ascham, Howe, Gallaudet, Mann, Arnold, and Spencer. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 93 "Labor" Main Entrance, North Corridor, First Floor, Library of Congress Page 92 Corridor along the interior of the building from North Hall to Northwest Pavilion. Mr. Edward Simmon's idealizations of the Muses beginning at the south end over the entrance door are: 1. Melpomene, Muse of tragedy, enveloped in a swirl of red drapery. 2. Clio, Muse of history, with a helmet signifying heroic deeds. 3. Thalia, Muse of comedy and gay pleasure, beside whom dances a little satyr with Pan's pipes, and who has Pope's lines: Descend, ye Nine, descend and sing; Wake into voice each silent string. 4. Euterpe, Muse of lyric poetry, the patroness of the song, as suggested by the flute. 5. Terpsichore, Muse of the choral dance, who strikes the rhythmic cymbals. Beneath her is the couplet: Oh, Heaven born sisters, source of art. Who charm the sense or mend the heart. 6. Erato, Muse of love and poetry, is nude and has a white rose. 7. Polyhymnia, Muse of sacred song, holds an open book, and beneath is written the third of Pope's couplets : Say, will you bless the bleak Atlantic shore, And in the West bid Athens rise once more ! 8 . Urania shows herself Muse of astronomy by her instruments. 94 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE g. Calliope, Muse of epic poetry and eloquence, is symbolized by a scroll and peacock feathers. The Northwest Pavilion, to which this corridor leads is finished in a prevailing tone of Ponipeiian red. "Melpomene" dccoratcd in pancls by float- Main Entrance, Interior Corridor ing flgUrCS of RoiTian dancing First Floor Library of Congress gjj-Jg^ draWn by Wttl. dc Lcft- ^^^ wich Dodge. Ponipeiian borders and a series of signs of the zodiac, placed in the six window bays by Mr. Thompson, complete the mural decorations. From this pavilion one enters the large hall on the north side of the building, devoted to the storage, consultation, and exhibition of maps, charts, and geographical things generally. Second Floor. Some of the finest parts of the library are in the second story. The staircases lead to a broad arcade surrounding the hall. North and south doorways admit to magnificent exhibition halls; the west windows open upon a balcony overlooking the Capitol grounds and a large part of the city, and on the east a beautiful stairway leads to the uppermost galleries of the rotunda. The decoration, in relief here, is all the work of Mr. Martiny, the figures (geniuses) exemplifying various conceptions and pursuits indicated by conventional symbols, such as the shepherd's crook and pipes for pastoral life or Arcady; a block of paj^er and a compass for architecture, and so on; also many cartoiiches and tablets bearing the names of illustrious authors. The spaces surrounding the well of the staircases are spoken of as corridors, of which there are four — north, south, east, and west. The color scheme was suggested by that of the greatly admired library of Siena, Italy. The colors employed are alike in similar parts throughout, and a unifomi arrange- ment of the minor decorations, trophies, name-tablets, spaces for mottoes, etc., makes the whole design coherent, while admitting of constant local diversity. The motive is renais- sance. Each corner of the rectangle of corridors is brilliant with two Ponipeiian panels, bearing the floating figures painted by George W. Maynard to express the virtues. Beginning at the left in each case they are: At the northwest corner Industry and Concord; at the southwest corner Temperance and RAND M cNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 95 Prudence; at the southeast comer Patriotism and Courage; at the northeast comer Fortitude and Justice. Another of the constant similarities is the series of Printers' Marks, which run around the whole circle of the scheme, in the penetrations between the pendentives of the ceiling. They are the "engraved devices which the old printers used in the title page or colophon of their books, partly as a kind of informal trade-mark guarding against counterfeited editions, and partly as a personal emblem." It would require a long time to des- cribe each one of the fifty-six here shown, but they are worth careful examination. The East Corridor, crossing the head of the staircase, has pendentive figures by Geo. 'R. Barse, Jr., illustrating the topic Literature, and comprising Lyrica (Lyric poetry), Tragedy, Comedy, and History, on the east wall; and Ero- tica (Love-poetry), Tradition, Fancy, and Romance, on the west wall. The center of the vault exhibits three more striking medallion paintings by Wm. A. Mackay, giving the three stages of the Life of Man as represented by the Fates : Clotho, Lachesis, and Atropos. The allegory becomes plainer when one reads the accompanying inscriptions. Thus beneath Clotho, with her distaff and the baby upon her knee, spinning the thread of life, are the words: For a web begun God sends thread. — Old Proverb. Lachesis, the weaver, is seen in the second picture, with shuttle and loom. The child has become a man, the stream a river, the twig a tree of which the man is gathering the fruit; and we read: The web of life is a mingled yarn, Good and ill together. — Shakespeare. Then comes Atropos, severing with her fateful shears the old man's Hfe thread as he pauses beneath the withered tree to gaze at the setting sun; and here are written the words of Milton in " Lycidas " : Comes the blind Fury with th' abhorred shears, And slits the thin-spun life. The Printers' Marks are those of Italian and Spanish houses; while the names of American printers, type founders, and press builders are to be read upon the mural tablets; Green, Day, FrankHn, Thomas, Bradford and Clymer, Adams, Gordon, Hoe, and Bruce. 96 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE The North Corridor contains the brilliant paintings of Robert Rcid on the north wall and in the vault. For the former purpose he was given four circular panels, which he has filled with compositions entitled, Wisdom, Understanding, Knowledge and Philosophy, the subjects typified by women of rather more serious mien, who are distinguished by easily understood symbols, the Greek Temple in the background of the last picture reminding the observer that philosophy began among the Greeks. The same artist has taken the Five Senses as his theme for the ceiling pictures, occupying octagonal spaces in the arabesque design of the vault. Taste, Sight, Smell, Hearing and Touch are represented in color from west to east, by dcHghtfully composed figures of young women that seem to be supported upon cloud banks in the sky. Taste is surrounded by the foliage and fruit of the grape, and is drinking from a shell. Sight smiles at her image in a hand mirror (as well she may) and beside her is a gorgeous peacock. Smell is ensconced in flowers and inhales the perfume of a rose. Hearing prettily listens to the re "ng of a seashcll held to her ear by graceful hands. Touch side whom sleeps a setter dog, is holding herself quiet and leeling the titillation made by the butterfly that walks along her bare arm. But these are only the centerpieces of this highly embellished ceiling. Small rectangles are filled with sketchy drawings illustrating in a classic style the games and recreations of ancient times — Throwing the Discus, Wrestling, Running, The Finish, The Wreath of Victory, and The Triumphal Return — "War" N. W. Corridor, Second Floor, Library of Congress Page 105 R A N D M c N A I. L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 97 in order. In addition to these are the Printers' Marks here of American and British pubhshers, and a long series of trophies of science and industry contained in medalhons. Geometry is marked by a scroll, compass, etc; Meteorology, by the barom- eter, thennometer, etc.; Forestry, by axe and pruning knife; Navigation, by sailors' implements; Transportation, by propeller, piston, headlight, etc. Above the west window are the two faces of the Great Seal of the United States, and two of R. H. Perry's Sybils, sculptured in low relief, these two being Greek and Oriental. The former (the Delphic Oracle) dictates her prophecies to an aged scribe; the latter (a veiled or occult person) utters them to prostrate adorers. Many inscriptions are written. Those in panels over doors and windows are: The chief glory of every people arises from its authors. — Dr. Johnson. There is one only good, namely, knowledge, and one only evil, namely, ignorance. — Socrates. Knowledge comes, but wisdom lingers. — Tennyson. Wisdom is the principal thing; therefore get wisdom; and with all thy getting get understanding. — Proverbs iv; 7. Ignorance is the curse of Gt!'.i. Knowledge the wing wherewith we fly to H'" t. — Shakspeare — 2 Henry T 'I. How charming is Divine Philosophy. — Milton. Books must follow sciences and sciences books. — Bacon. In books lies the soul of the whole past time. — Carlyle. Words are also actions and actions are a kind of words. — Emerson. Reading maketh a full man, conference a ready man, and writing an exact man. — Bacon. The ceiling inscriptions are from Adelaide Proctor's "Unex- pressed": Dwells within the soul of every Artist More than all his effort can express. No great thinker ever lived and taught you All the wonder that his soul received. No true painter ever set on canvas All the glorious vision he conceived. No musician. But be sure he heard, and strove to render, Feeble echoes of celestial strains. No real Poet ever wove in numbers All his dreams. Love and Life united Are twin mysteries, different, yet the same. 98 RAiND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Love may strive, but vain is the endeavor All its boundless riches to unfold. Art and Love speak; but their words must be Like sighings of illimitable forests. In the border of the arch over the west window : Order is Heaven's first law. Memory is the treasurer and guardian of all things. Beauty is the creator of the universe. The West Corridor is immediately over the entrance vestibule, and has been decorated in a very interesting manner by Walter Shirlaw, who has found his motive in The Sciences. Says Mr. Small: "Each science is represented by a female figure about 7K feet in height. The figures are especially interesting, aside from their artistic merit, for the variety of symbolism by which every science is distinguished from the others, and for the subtlety with which much of this symbolism is expressed. Not only is each accompanied by various appropriate objects, but the lines of the drapery, the expression of the face and body, and the color itself are, wherever practicable, made to subserve the idea of the science represented. Thus the predominant colors used in the figure of Chemis- try — purple, blue and red — are the ones which occur most often in chemical experimenting. In the matter of line again, the visitor will notice a very marked difference between the abrupt broken line used in the drapery of Archajology, and the moving, flowing line in that of Physics." The list of these paintings, beginning on the west at the left is as follows: Zoology, clad in a pelt, and with the lion of the desert beside her; Physics, typifying and expressing in color and flowing form the reign of fire and electricity. Mathematics is almost nude — the exact truth; Geology, has gathered speci- mens and fossils from the rocks. On the east, Archaeology, in Roman costume, consults history, and has beside her a vase made by Zuni Indians; Botany seems analyzing a water lily; Astronomy suggests her study by globe and planet and the lens of a telescope, and Chemistry is acconipanied by symbols of her investigations. Agreeably to this motive, the names of distinguished men of science are emblazoned upon the wall: Cuvier, the zoologist, Rumford, the physicist, LaGrange the mathematician, LycU the geologist, Schleimann the Greek archicologist, Linnaeus the father of botany, Copernicus the astronomer, and Lavoisier the chemist. Three medallions in the ceiling are filled by W. B. Van Ingen with sketchy drawings idealizing the arts; Scul])ture chisels at a bust of Washington; Painting is employed at her easel; and Architecture is busied at the plans of a building. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 99 The Printers' marks here are German. The inscriptions on the ceiHng and over the windows are these : The first creature of God was the light of sense; the last was the light of reason. The light shineth in darkness, and the darkness comprehendeth it not. All are but parts of one stupendous whole, Whose body nature is and God the soul. In nature all is useful, all is beautiful. Art is long, and Time is fleeting. — Longfellow. The history of the world is the biography of great men. — Carlyle. Books will speak plain when counsellors blanch. — Bacon. Glory is acquired by virtue but preserved by letters. — Petrarch. The foundation of every state is the education of its youth. — Dionysius. The South Corridor, at the right of the staircase, is characterized by F. W. Benson's bright and dainty paintings. The Four Seasons occupy circular panels upon the wall, and ex- cite universal admiration. "Each is represented" says a critic, "by a beautiful half-length figure of a young woman, with no attempt, however, at any elaborate symbolism to distinguish the season which she typifies. Such distinction as the painter has chosen to indicate is to be sought rather in the character of the faces, or in the wanner or colder coloring of the whole panel — in a word, in the general artistic treatment." "The Arts," Corridor leading from South Hall to Southwest Pavilion, Second Floor, Library of Congress Page 101 Mr. Benson has also found space among the rich arabesques of the ceiling ornament for three hexagonal paintings, given to the Graces, in which the use of white is most skillfully and pleasingly made prominent. Aglaia is here regarded as the goddess or patroness of husbandry and pastoral life, and 100 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE characterized by the shepherd's crook. ThaHa stands, of course, for art, and by her side is seen a lyre, suggesting; music, and a Greek temple as a symbol of architecture ; while Euphro- syne is the grace of graces — Beauty — and holds a mirror up to her own features. Near each end of the vault are rectangular panels repre- senting a "scrimmage" at football, and a baseball game — modern games as compared with the ancient recreation depicted in the North Corridor. Mr. Perry's bas-reliefs are continued at the west end here in two subjects also expressing ancient prophecy. One is the Cuma^an or Roman sibyl, a fearsome old woman who reads from a sibylline scroll an answer to the questions of her applicants — a Roman general and a nude woman. The other, in similar pose, represents a "wise woman" or vala of the Norsemen. Maynard's Pompeiian panels in this corridor show the virtues. Patriotism and Courage, at the east end, and at the west end Temperance and Prudence. The Printers' Marks arc French; and a series of trophy medallions corresponds to that of the North Corridor, showing the crafts of the potter, glassmaker, carpenter, blacksmith, and mason. The inscriptions here read: Beholding the bright countenance of Truth in the quiet and still air of delightful studies. — Milton. The true University of these days is a Collection of Books. — Carlyle. Nature is the art of God. — Sir Thomas Browne. There is no work of genius which has not been the delight of mankind. — Lowell. It is the mind that makes the man, and our vigor is in our immortal soul. — Ovid. They are never alone that arc accompanied with noble thoughts. — .Sir Philip Sidney. Man is one world, and hath another to attend him. — Herbert. Tongues in trees, books in the running brooks. Sermons in stones, and good in everything. — Shakespeare — Asyoii Like It. The true Shekinah is man. — Chrysostoni. Only the actions of the just Smell sweet and blossom in the dust. — James Shirley. Man raises but time weighs. Beneath the rule of men entirely great The pen is mightier than the sword. The noblest motive is the public good. A little learning is a dangerous thing; Drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring. — Pope. Learning is but an adjunct to ourself. — Love's Labor Lost. Studies ]K'rfect nature, and are j^erfected by experience. — Bacon. f RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 101 Dreams, books, are each a world; books, we know. Are a substantial world, both pure and good. — Wordsworth. The fault is not in our stars. But in ourselves, that we are underlings. — Shakespeare — Julius CcBsar. The universal cause Acts to one end, but acts by various laws. — ■ Pope. Creation's heir, the world, the world is mine! — Goldsmith. Vain, very vain, the weary search to find That bliss which only centers in the mind. — Goldsmith. In the Corridor leading to Southwest Pavilion arc the two great mural paintings by Kenyon Cox, who has taken as his subject for the south end The Sciences, and for the north end The Arts. In The Sciences, which faces the entrance, the central figure is Astronomy, with Physics and Mathematics, dis- tinguished by conventional symbols, at her right; beyond them geometrical figures seem merely symbolic accessories until close attention shows that they spell the artist's name — Kenyon Cox, At the right of the panel are Botany and Zoology and behind them are seen shells, minerals, etc. In The Arts, at the north end of the room. Poetry sits enthroned in the center, in an attitude of exaltation, which is communicated to two little geniuses at her feet. At her right are a musician and an architect, while at her left sit Sculpture and Painting — all typified by women, graceful and dignified in mien, lovely in face. The coloring of these paintings is particularly rich and harmonious with the prevalent blue and gold of the room. This room is devoted to an extensive series of prints illus- trating the processes and development of the graphic arts — etching, photography, and printing of photogravures and half-tones ; and the rnames upon the wall tablets are those of men distinguished in science and art — Leibnitz, Galileo, Aristotle, Ptolemy, Dalton, Hipparchus, Herschel, Kepler, Lamarck, and Helmholtz for the former, and Wagner, Mozart, Homer, Milton, Raphael, Rubens, Vitruvius, Mansard, Phidias, and Michael Angelo for art. The Southwest Pavilion has been styled "Pavilion of the Discoverers" from the theme of its decorations. The disk in the dome by George W. Maynard, an allegorical design embrac- ing four stalwart female figures, typifies national virtues — Courage, roughly mail-clad and armed with shield and war-club; Valor, a warrior of more refined type, with a sword; Fortitude, an unarmed figure bearing an architectural column as a symbol of stability, and Achievement, wearing the laurel crown. Each of these figures is related in thought to one of the four tympanmu paintings, also by Maynard, in which are 102 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE idealized the succession of Adventure, Discovery, Conquest, and, at last, Civilization. The series begins at the east side with Adventure, and each consists of three splendid female figures whose action and accompaniments express the artist's conceptions. It will be noticed, too, that it is not adventure and conquest in general which is portrayed, but that which led to the discovery and civilization of America, and conse- quently all the accessories are English and Spanish, and the many names recorded are those of the adventurers, navigators, soldiers, priests, missionaries, and statesmen who successively figured in the development of North America from Spanish and British colonies to the independence and prosperity of the United States. In addition to this very fine series of paintings, the pen- dentives here (as in the other pavilions) bear a notable scries of circular plaques in low relief, expressing by seated, nearly nude, female figures, the Four Seasons, modeled by Bcla L. Pratt. Spring sows seed, her gannent blown by the vernal winds; Summer, older, sits quiet among the poppies; Autumn, now mature, nurses a child, and Winter gathers fagots to warm her aged body. The garlands over each correspond to the season. This pavilion is devoted to exhibition cases for the display of the growth and development of book illustration from the first rude efforts in illumination and in wood-cutting to the finest modern examples. The eastern door of the pavilion opens into the Exhibition Hall along the south side of the building, which is quietly decorated in plain tints, and devoted to an extensive exhibit of the art of making pictures mechanically. It is known. "The Sciences," Corridor leading from South Hall to Southwest Pavilion, Second Floor, Library of Congress Page 104 RAND McNALLY WAvSHINGTON GUIDE 103 therefore, as the Print Room. Here one may see a great series of prints, illustrating the development of lithography and the processes a lithograph goes through, whether printed in mono- tint or in varied colors. Also early and fine modern examples of every sort of engraving upon wood, copper, and steel. In addition to this the library aims to show an example of the work of every prominent American etcher and engraver. The Southeast Pavilion, called "Pavilion of the Elements," is decorated by R. L. Dodge. In each of the four tympanums he has painted a representation of one of the four Elements —to the east. Earth; to the north. Air; to the west. Fire; to the south, Water. The Allegory and symbolism in each case are readily interpreted by the beholder. In the dome Mr. Dodge, in conjunction with Mr. Garnsey, has expressed the same idea in another way, figured by Apollo and the Sun for a centerpiece, surrounded by medallions and cartouches for the elements. The Northeast Pavilion is sometimes called the "Pavilion of the Seals." The illustrative paintings of W. B. Van Ingen personify the Executive departments. The Treasury and State departments are typified in the west tympanum; the War and Navy in the south; Agriculture and Interior in the east; and Justice and the Post Office in the north. All of the details are symbolic and easily understood, except the cypress trees, which are merely decorative, and stand in jars copied from those made by the Zuni Indians. The seals of the depart- ments are cleverly introduced, and in the dome the great seal of the United States forms the center of an elaborate and beautiful circular painting by Elmer E. Garnsey, framed in an inscription from Lincoln's Gettysburg address: "That this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom; and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth." Other sentiments inscribed here are: , 'Tis our true policy to steer clear of permanent alliance with any portion of the foreign world. — Washington. Let our object be our country, our whole country, and nothing but our country. — Webster. Thank God, I also am an American. — Webster. Equal and exact Justice to all men, of whatever state or persuasion, religious or political — peace, commerce, and honest friendship with all nations — entangling alliance with none. — Jefferson. The agricultural interest of the country is connected with every other, and superior in importance to them all. — Jackson. Let us have peace. — Grant. 104 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE The aggregate happiness of society is, or ought to be, the end of all government. — Washington. To be prepared for war is one of the ipost effective means of preserving peace. — Washingto7i. The Northwest Pavilion, occupying the northwestern corner of the Hbrary, is among the most beautiful in the building. The series of four carvings, one in each of the pcndcntives, delicately represent the Seasons, and are from models by Bcla L. Pratt. The painting in the dome, and those in the four tympanums are by William de Lef twitch Dodge and are remarkable not only for the large number of figures but their expressiveness. Ambition, the subject of his painting in the dome, represents the summit of a mountain which may be called Success, to which have climbed a series of persons along the various paths, noble and ignoble, of human endeavor. The Unattainable Ideal leaps away into the air beyond their reach, neverthe- less, though trumpeting Fame clutches at the bridle. The struggling crowd displays types of many fonns of Ambition, and a Jester stands on one side and laughs at the useless strife. Mr. Dodge's wall paintings depict Music (north), Science (east). Art (south), and Literature (west). Music depicts musicians, ancient and inodcrn, playing before Apollo, the god of song and harmony. Science, an ideal winged figure before a temple, has summoned the represeittatives of Inven- tion, and the scene is filled with suggestions of scientific discovery — Franklin's kite, that began modern progress in electricity, a teakettle as a reminder of the origin of the idea of the steam engine, etc. Art displays the painter, the sculptor, and the architect at work. In Literature a graceful group illustrates education, the book, the drama, poetry, the fame that crowns the successful author, and so forth. In this room are manuscripts, autographs, and curious prints relating to the political history of the United States in great variety. Many of these are proclaniations, oflicers' commissions, and similar papers signed by the Colonial (Governors and statesmen. There are also many letters, diaries, account books, etc., of statesmen and leaders in the time of the Re\'olution, and of the more recent wars, including that with Spain, which resulted in the freeing of the West Indies. Perhaps the most curious relic is a manuscript volume of the drawings of the United States lottery of 1779. Corridor leading to the Northwest Pavilion, occtii)ying the whole breadth of this part of the building and looking out RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 105 Readings Room Library of Congress Page 110 toward the Capitol on one side and into one of the courts (with a good view of the north book-stack) on the other. Red, is the prevaihng color here, emphasizing the arabesques on the walls and adapting itself to the theme of decoration. The special decorations filling the arched ends of the hall above the doors arc by Gari Melchers. War, at the north end 106 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE "Peace" N. W. Corridor, Second Floor, Library of Congress of the gallery, represents a triumphant, laurel-crowned chief of fighting men of some primitive time and place leading home his victorious band, the "dogs of war" straining at the leash in advance. A herald blows a pa?on of victory, but the horsemen ride over bodies of the slain, weak men fall by the wayside, and in the very foreground of the scene their own losses are sug- gested in the dead captain borne homeward. Thus the dread as well as the glory of war is depicted. Peace, is at the south end. The time and scene, as before, are carried back to that prehistoric state of society which is regarded by the poets as Arcadian in its sim]3licity and virtue. The inhabitants of a village have come in religious procession to a grove wherein resides their tutelary deity, whose image they are reverently bearing; and while the priest chants a litany they bring forward the thank-offerings each means to lay at the feet of the goddess. The fattened ox may be meant for a sacrifice, but it is also a suggestion of rm-al prosperity and feasting. The names inscribed here arc those of the world's most famous soldiers: Wellington, Washington, Charles Martel, Cyrus, Alexander, Hannibal, Cicsar, Charlemagne, Napoleon, Jackson, Sheridan, Grant, Shennan, William the Conqueror, Frederick the Great, Eugene, Marlborough, Nelson, Scott, and Farragut. Here are exhibited, in glass table-cases, rare and curious books representing the beginnings of printing and boolaiiaking, especially as relates to North American discovery and history. The display of early printed Bibles and missals, and specimens of famous special editions of Bibles, is also large. Entrance to RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 107 Rotunda Galleries is from middle of East Hall by a branching marble stairway in bays beside which are paintings of Prescott the historian, and Audubon, the naturalist by W, B. Van Ingcn. At the head of the stairs is Elihu Vedders colossal mosaic (in glass) of Minerva — Goddess of Wisdom- — -perhaps the greatest single object among the library decorations. This mosaic, 15^ feet high and 9 feet wide, is bordered by a design of laurel branches. The figure of Minerva is that of a magnificent — almost mas- culine — woman, a chieftain- ess whose armor has been partly laid aside, and who now addresses her mind to the arts of peace. The sun of prosperity is bursting through the war-clouds, and winged Victory beside her holds forth with one hand the olive branch, while with the other she dis- penses the rewards to the conquerors. Still holding her protecting spear, she now contemplates with attention and benignant gaze an unfolded scroll upon which she reads the names of branches of knowledge — Law, Statistics, Sociology, Philosophy, and the Sciences. The whole is grand and stately in conception, bold in drawing, and glowing in color, especially when seen by electric light. A free reading of the Latin inscription, "Nil in vita Minerva quai monumentum a?re perrenius excgit": Minerva was at her best when she builded this monument more lasting than bronze. Y ^he Rotunda rises unobstructed from the main floor to the "Minerva Stairway" To Gallery of Reading Room Library of Congress 108 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE canopy within the dome — a height of 125 feet. The colossal emblematic statue on the summit of each column represents 'a department of human thought and development. XThey are of plaster io}4 feet in height, and 60 feet from the floor. "Beginning at the right of the entrance, they are as follows: Religion, by Th. Baur; Commerce, by J. Flanagan; History, by D. C. French; Art, by Dozzi of France, after sketches by Aug. St. Gaudens; Philosophy, by B. L. Pratt; Poetry, by J. Q. A. Ward; Law, by P. W. Bartlett, and Science, by J. Donoghue. Each is distinguished by some symbol, and above each, on a tablet supported by child-figures modeled by Martiny, are inscriptions, chosen by President Eliot of Harvard University, each appropriate to its theme, thus: Above the figure of Religion: What doth the Lord require of thee, but to do justly, ami to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God. — • Micah vi:8. Above the figure of Commerce: We taste the spices of Arabia, yet never feel the scorchinj; sun which brings them forth. — Anonymous. Above the figure of History: One God, one law, one element, And one far-off divine event, To which the whole creation moves. — • Tennyson. Above the figure of Art: As one lamp lights another, nor grows less, So nobleness enkindleth nobleness. — Lowell. Above the figure of Philosophy: The cn([uiry, knowledge, and belief of truth is the sovereign good of human nature. — Bacon. Above the figure of Poetry: Hither, as to their fountain, other stars Repairing, in their golden urns draw light. — Milton. Above the figure of Law: Of law there can be no less acknowledged tJian llial licr voice is (he harmony of the world. — Hooker. Above tlie figiu-c of Science: The heavens declare the glory of God; and the nrmamcnt slioweth His handiwork. — Psalms xix:i. RAND ]M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 109 The sixteen bronze portrait statues, along the balustrade of the gallery, personally illustrate the great lines of creative thought above enumerated. The list is as follows: Typical of ReHgion: Moses, an ideal figure, by Niehaus; and St. Paul, an ideal figure, by Donaghue. Commerce: Columbus, by Paul W. Bartlett; and Robert Fulton, by Ed. C. Potter. History: Herodotus, modeled after Greek sculp- tures, by D. C. French; and Gibbon, by Niehaus. Art: Michael Angelo, by P. W. Bartlett; and Beethoven by Baur. Philosophy: Plato, from Greek busts, by J. J. Boyle; and Bacon, also' by Boyle. Poetry: Homer, after an ideal bust of ancient times, by Louis St. Gaudens; and Shakespeare, by Macmonnies, modeled after the Stratford bust and the portrait in the first edition of the Plays. Law: Solon, from Greek data, by Ruckstuhl; and Chancellor Kent, by George Bissell. Science: Newton, by C. E. DalHn; and Joseph Henry, by H. Adams. Except the idealizations mentioned above, all are from authentic portraits, including details of costume, etc. The Great Clock of the Rotunda, over the door, was modeled by J. Flanagan. "The clock itself is constructed of various brilliantly colored precious marbles, and is set against a background of mosaic, on which are displayed encircling the clock, the signs of the zodiac, in bronze The hands which are also gilded, are jeweled with semi-precious stones." L^ The interesting and beautiful series of figures in fresco in the collar of the dome are by E. H. Blashfield, and symbol the Evolution of Civilization. The four more conspicuous by their Hghter colors than the rest personify not only those of most' importance historically — Egypt, Rome, Italy, and England — but they mark the cardinal points of the compass. Egypt, standing at the dawn of civilization, is appropriately placed at the east, and is a male figure of an ancient Egyptian, holding a tablet. Judea, is a woman in an attitude of prayer, whose parted robe displays the vestment of a Jewish high priest; a pillar beside her is inscribed, Leviticus XIX :i8, "Thou shalt love thy neighbor as thyself." Greece is per- sonified by a beautiful, diadem-crowned woman. Rome, by a warrior in the annor of a centurion, resting his hands upon the Roman fasces. For Islam is chosen an Arab, representing the learned Moorish race and Moslem power. Next to him is a female figure personifying the Middle Ages, typifying by her sword, casque, and cuirass the great institution of chivalry, while the rule of the medieval Roman Catholic Church is suggested by the papal tiara and keys. By her sits white- robed Italy — the mother of the fine arts, whose symbols she has; and turned toward her is a printer of the early days, 110 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE standing for Germany, where this art originated. Spain, is a cavalier or navigator, eager for war, adventure, and dis- covery. Next him sits a gracious woman, representative of England, recalling in her costume the literary glories of the Elizabethan age and displaying an open folio of Shakespeare's plays. France is next — Republican France — sitting upon a cannon but holding out the Declaration of the Rights of Man. The twelfth figure completes the circle — America, typified in an Engineer, consulting a scientific book, while in front of him stands an electric dynamo. The series thus has a double significance — each personage standing not only for a nation geographically and historically considered, but for the genius or characteristic idea of each. "Thus," remarks Mr. R. Cortissoz, "Egypt is the representative of written records, Judea typifies religion, Greece is the standard-bearer of philosophy, Rome bears the same relation toward administration, Islam stands for physics, the Middle Ages are figured as the fountain head of modern languages, Italy is represented as the source of the fine arts, Germany, as sponsor for the art of printing, Spain as the first great power in discovery, England as a mighty bulwark of literature, the France of the eighteenth century as emblematic of eman- cipation, and America as the nation of scientific genius. Each figure holds the insignia of its place." Mr. Blashficld's exquisitely graceful female figure in the canopy of the dome represents Human Understanding, lifting her veil and gazing up, as if seeking more and more guidance from on high. The two cherubs attending her carry the Book of Knowledge. (/ The practical work of the library concentrates in the rotunda, where (in the center) stands the circular desk of the superintendent and his assistants, who can speedily com- municate with all parts of the building by a system of tele- phones, and by pneumatic tubes, which carry messages and orders for books to any required room or book stack. As there is a constant call for books of reference from the Capitol, where the legislators often want a volume for instant use, an underground tunnel, four feet wide and six feet high, has been made between the two buildings, containing an endless cable carrier, upon which books may be sent back and forth at great s])eed. An assistant, cyclo])edias, etc., are stationed at the Ca])itol terminus. The available space for all purposes here is largely in excess of that of the British Museums. The stack rooms are not open to the pul)lic, but glhnpses of them may be caught through glass doors in the rotunda gallery. Consultation of the books is open to anyone in the reading room. The applicant writes the title of the book he wants RAND ^IcNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 111 and his own address on a blank ticket, which he hands in at the central desk, where he presently <2;ets the l)ook. No one may take books out of the library except nicmbers of Con- gress, and about thirty other high officials. A restaurant is maintained in the attic (reached by elevator) which is open to the public during the day. The basement is devoted to the offices of the library (including that of the Superintendent of the Building and Grounds), and to the Copyright Office. This is quartered in a large hall on the south side, but contains nothing to interest the sight-seer. This office grants copyrights upon all kinds of literary material, upon the pa^onent of certain small fees and compliance with regulations as to the deposit of two copies of the publication in this library, and the proper ptiblication of notice of copyright. The law makes this right apply to author, inventor, designer, or proprietor of any book, map, chart, dramatic or musical composition, engra\'ing, cut, print, or photograph or negative thereof, or of a painting, drawing, chromo, statue, statuary, and of models or designs intended to be perfected as works of the fine arts, and the executors, administrators, or assigns of any such person shall, upon complying with the provisions of this chapter, have the sole liberty of printing, reprinting, publishing, completing, copying, executing, finishing, and vending the same; and, in the case of a dramatic composition, of publicly performing or representing it, or causing it to be perfonned or represented by others. This privilege remains protected for twenty-eight years, and may then be renewed for fourteen years. Corcoran Gallery of Art has no connection with the Govern- ment, although its trustees are given a place in the Congressional Directory. It is wholly the result of the philanthropy of a wealthy citizen, William Wilson Corcoran, who died in 1893. " He early decided that at least one-half of his money accumula- tions should be held for the welfare of men." It was opened in 1869, in the noble building opposite the War Department, "to be used solely for the purposes of encouraging American genius in the production and presentation of works pertaining to the Fine Arts and kindred objects." This has now been superceded by the splendid gallery on 17th St., at New York Ave,, facing the Executi\'e grounds. The Corcoran donations, including the old lot and building, have been $1,600,000. A large number of casts of classic statues, famous bas-reliefs, and smaller carvings in this gallery are not only l)cautiful in them- selves, but of great value to students. 112 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE \ o = ; IIIIMIIIMIIIK'I r g s LIBRARY " <^ o i hill nSo^ ^';^i± RaDd McNall>- k Co., Chicago. PLAN OF FIRST STORY Corcoran Gallery of Art 17th Street and New York Ave. Page 111 This building has a length of 259 feet on 17th St., 133 feet on New York Ave. In arehitecturc it is Neo-Grcek, and the external walls, above the granite basement, arc of Georgia marble, white, pure and brilliant. The main entrance to the building is on 17th vSt. On either side of the steps, upon white marble pedestals, rests a colossal bronze lion, cast from moulds made over the famous lions by Canova, which guard the tomb of Clement XIII., in St. Peter's, Rome. PLAN OF SECOND STORY Corcoran Gallery of Art 17th Street and New York Ave Page 111 lUuJ MtNollj i Cu., Chioijo. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 113 Doorway Corcoran Gallery of Art Page in Corcoran Gallery of Art 17th Street and New York Ave. Page 111 The gallery is closed to the public every summer, for necessary renovation, etc., for a stated period. It is open during the remain- der of the year as follows : On Sundays, from September ist, to July ist, from 1.30 to 4.30 p.m. On Mondays, from 12 noon to 4 p.m. On Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. On Christmas Day it is closed to the public, but on other public holidays it is open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. On public holidays and Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays, the admission is free. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, an admittance fee of 25 cents is charged. For information concerning Copying, Art Education, etc., see Prospectus of the Art School, to be had by application to the Principal of the Art School. Photographs of the principal paintings and other works of art in the Gallery arc for sale at the door. Among the older and more prominent paintings in the Corcoran collection are the following: "The Watering Place" by Adolphe Schreyer, "Nedhma-Odalisque" by Gaston Casimir Saint Pierre, "Edge of the Forest" by Charles Melville Dewey, 114 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Statuary Hall, Corcoran Gallery of Art 17th Street and New York Ave. Page 111 "The Vestal Tuccia" by Hector Leroux, "Mercy's Dream" by Daniel Huntington, "Niagara Falls" by Frederick Edwin Church, "Caesar Dead" by Jean Leon Gerome, "On the Coast of New England" by William Trost Richards, "The Helping Hand" by Emile Renouf, "Charlotte Corday in Prison" by Charles Louis Miiller, "The Passing Regiment" by Jean Baptiste Edouard Detaille, "Wood Gatherers" by Jean Baptiste Camille Corot, "The Forester at Home", by Ludwig Knaus, "Landscape" by George Inness, "The Schism" by Jean Georges Vibcrt, "The Pond of the Great Oak" by Jules DuprtS "A Hamlet on the Seine Near Vernon" by Charles Francois Daubigny, "Landscape, with Cattle," by Emile Van Marckc, "Joan of Arc in Infancy" by Jean Jacques Henner, "The Banks of the Adige" by Martin Rico, "Twilight" by Thomas Alexander Harrison, "The Wedding Festival" by Eugene Louis Gabriel Isabey, "The Approaching Storm" by Narcisse VirgiHo Diaz de la Pena, "Aloonlight in Holland" by Jean Charles Gazin, "Approaching Night" by Max Weyl, "Sunset in the Woods" by George Inness, "El Bravo Toro" by Aime Nicholas Morot. Recently added are: J. G. Brown's large RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 115 and greatly admired canvas "The Longshoreman's Noon Hour" which has the "Honorable Mention" of the Paris Salon; "The Road to Concameau" by William Lamb Pickncll, "Eventide" by Robert C. Minor, a landscape by H. W. Ranger, and "Adoration of the Shepherds" by Anton Taphael Mcngs. One room is devoted to portraits, in wliich is prominently hung a portrait of Mr. Corcoran, by Elliott. Around him are grouped a great number of the Presidents of the United States and many famous Americans, making the collection not only interesting historically, but particularly valuable as illustrating the styles of most of the earlier American portrait painters. Of the marbles, Hiram Powers' "Greek Slave" is perhaps the most celebrated. To Vincenzo Velas' "Last Days of Napoleon" is given special prominence by its central position in the upper hall. The exqvusite little statue of the weeping child, entitled "The Forced Prayer," by Guamario, always brings a smile to the face of visitors. The Barye Bronzes are especially notable as the largest collection extant of the fine animal figures and other works of this talented French modeler; they number about loo. The small model of the statue to Frederick the Great, and the nuinerous electrotypic reproductions of unique metallic objects of art preserved in European museums, are other things that the intelligent visitor will dwell upon among the wealth of beautiful things presented to his view in this art museum. Tayloe Collection is a bequest from the family of Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, whose richly furnished home is still standing on Lafayette Sq. It consists of some two hundred or more objects of art, ornament, and curious interest, including marbles by Powers, Thorwaldsen, Greenough, and Canova; portraits by Gilbert Stuart, Huntington, and foreign artists, — and many other paintings; a large number of bronze objects and pieces of furniture, including Washington's card table and other pieces that belonged to eminent men, and a large series of porcelain, glass, ivory, and other objects, which are both historically and artistically interesting. A special catalogue for this collection is sold at 5 cents. 1 Hi RAND M c N A L L Y W A vS H I N G T O N GUIDE "Westward, Ho!" Western Grand Staircase — Capitol Pa.;e 165 EDUCATIONAL The Smithsonian Institution. The Mall near 12th St. Created by act of Congress in 1846, under the terms of the will of James Smithson, an Englishman, who in 1826 bequeathed his fortune to the United States to found, at Washington, under the name of the "Smithsonian Institution," an estab- lishment for the "increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." The Institution is legally an estabHshment, having as its members the President of the United States, the Vice- President, the Chief Justice, and the President's Cabinet. It is governed by a board of regents consisting of the Vice-Presi- dent, the Chief Justice, three members of the United States Senate, three members of the House of Representatives, and six citizens of the United States appointed by joint resolution of Congress. The secretary of the Smithsonian Institution is its executive officer and the director of its activities. The immediate and primary object of the board, as abo\'e constituted, is to administer the fund, and in doing so promote the object of its founder thus: (i) In the increase of knowledge by original investigation and study, either in science or literature. (2) In the diffusion of this knowledge by publication everywhere, and especially by promoting an interchange of thought among those promi- RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 117 Memorial Louis Jacques Maude Daguerre Inventor of the Daguerreotype Smithsonian Grounds Page 66 nent in learning among all nations, through its correspondents. These em- brace institutions or societies con- spicuous in art, science, or literature throughout the world. Through the Hodgkins fund, the income of $100,000 of which is for the increase and diffusion of knowledge in regard to the nature and properties of atmospheric air in connection with the welfare of man, grants have been made, publications issued, and medals and prizes awarded. On May i, 19 13, the Langley Aerodynamical Laboratory was re- opened. The objects of this laboratory will be the coordination of its activities with the kindred labors of other establishments; to plan investigations for increasing the safety and effectiveness of aerial locomotion; and to collect aeronautical information and publish such part of the same as appears to be of value to the Government or the public. The Institution, in cooperation with the Library of Con- gress, maintains a scientific library which numbers 260,000 volumes, consisting mainly of the transactions of learned societies and scientific periodicals. The serial publications of the Smithsonian Institution are as follows: i, Smithsonian contributions to knowledge; 2, Smithsonian miscellaneous collections; j, Smithsonian reports. No sets of these are for sale or distribution, as most of the volumes are out of print. The volumes of Contributions to knowledge and of Miscellaneous collections are distributed only to public libraries and to learned societies and institutions in this comitry and abroad. The Smithsonian reports arc regularly distributed by the Institution to libraries throughout the world, and only a limited number of the volumes remain to supply other demands. No general mailing-list of indi- viduals is maintained. The reports can be purchased from the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. Remittances for publications not distributed gratuitously should be made payable to the "Smithsonian Institution." Aijplications from liljraries should be made accompanied by a statement of the number of volumes which they contain and the date of their establishment, and should have the endorsement of a Member of Congress. lis RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE The annual reports are the only Smithsonian publications that are regularly issued as public documents. All the others are paid for from the private funds of the Institution. The Smithsonian Institution has under its charge, certain bureaus described below which are sustained by annual appropriations. International Exchange Service is the agency of the United States Government for the exchange of scientific, literary, and governmental publications with foreign governments, institutions, and investigators. It receives and dispatches about 600,000 pounds of printed matter annually. Bureau of American Ethnology is engaged in the collection and publication of information relating to the American Indians and the natives of Hawaii. Astrophysical Observatory investigates solar radiation and other solar phenomena. The work of this observatory is carried on partly in Washington and partly at a station on Mount Wilson in CaHfornia. National Zoological Park has an area of 167 acres, and is located in the Rock Creek Valley, 2 miles north of the center of Washington. Its collection comprises about 1,500 animals. International Catalogue of Scientific Literature is a classified list, in book form, of current publications relating to all l^ranches of science. The United States, by an annual a]opro- priation by Congress to the Smithsonian Institution, supports a regional bureau. U . S. National Museum. This is the depository of the National Collections which are housed in three buildings on the Mall between 7 th and 12 th Sts. The exhibition halls of the Museum, are open to the ]:)ublic on every week day throughout th'^~ year, inclutling holidays, and those in the main building on Sundays also. Tlie hours are from 9 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. on week days, and from 1:30 to 4:30 p. m. on Sundays. The pul)lications of the National Museum comprise an annual report and three scientific series, viz., Proceedings, Bulletins, and Contributions from national herbarium. The editions are distributed to established lists of libraries, scientific institutions, and specialists, any surplus cojmcs being supplied on application. The volumes of Proceedings are made up of technical papers based on the Museum collections in biology, geology, and anthropology, and of each of these papers a small edition, in ])amphlet form, is issued in advance of the volume, for prompt distribution to specialists. No sets of am' of these series can now be furnished. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 119 U. S. National Museum, Main Building The Mall, 10th and B Streets Page 118 The main building devoted to Natural History and including the National Gallery of Art, is a new structure about 560x313 feet, four stories in height and cost $3,500,006. The National Gallery of Art, located in this building contains the George P. Marsh collection of etchings, engravings, and books on art; the Charles L. Freer collection, comprising numer- ous paintings, etchings, etc., by Whistler and other American artists, and many examples of Japanese and Chinese art; the Harriet Lane Johnston collection, including a number of portraits by British masters; and the William T. Evans col- lection of paintings by contemporary American artists. Ethnological Division occupies the northern section of the first floor. By means of life sized groups and figures wearing the actual costumes or costumed manikins, models of villages, and paintings, the appearance, social life and state of civilization of the various peoples of the world are shown. The groups of Indians, Eskimos and Asiatics are of special interest, the totem posts from Alaska, the George Catlin collection of Indian paintings and thousands of other objects such as tools, weapons and works of art are shown here. Archeological Division occupies the north wing and cast range ot the second floor. The collections of northern America are among the most important in existence. The devcloj^ment 120 RAND M c X A L L Y W A vS H I N G T O N GUIDE of the primitive races is illustrated by means of large cases of exhibits, models of ancient cliff-dwellings and pueblos and lay figures showing the practice of various industries. The col- lections from the Old World include many Assyrian, Egyptian, Grecian and Roman antiquities, casts of statuary and impor- tant remains from the earliest times. The Division of Physical Anthropology comprises the largest in America. It is not yet presented in the public halls but an important exhibition has been arranged for the inspection of students and experts. Zoological Collections occupy almost the entire western part of the first and second floors. The mammals are in the west wing first floor. Among the African mammals, including the collection by Col. Theodore Roosevelt, are four large cases 1 7x12 feet requiring for the sides the largest size of plate glass manu- factured. A most valuable collection of birds including some rarely found in museums, and extinct forms, are shown in the west wing first floor. The reptiles, batrachians and fishes are shown in the west wing second floor. The marine invertebrates and deep sea specimens are in the south hall of this room. An interesting display is given in the north hall of this room, namely the osteological series, where numerous skeletons are mounted and the similarities in the bony structure of various groups is seen. In the w^est wing second floor is arranged a systematic sequence of the animal kingdom from the lowest to the highest groups. In the west range second floor is an exhibit showing the results of man's domestication of animals. In this room also is seen a local exhibit of every species of animal found in the District of Columbia. Special exhibits as animal architecture, the cotton boll weevil, etc., are given. Palcontological Exhibit: east wing first floor. Entering from the rotiuida the fossil vertebrates are first seen, life-sized restored skeletons of i)rehist()ric animals and birds. The huge whale-like zeuglodon is in the center of the floor, to the right and left arc quite complete specimens of the mastodon, also the giant deer, the great three-horned dinosaur whose skull measures 6 feet long, a large duck-billed reptile over 26 feet long, the large armoured dinosaur and many smaller specimens may be seen. In the south hall of this room is found the exhibit of the fossil invertebrates, beginning with a large mount showing a sea beach with rip|)le marks and animal tracks crossing the sandstone. In the north hall are the collections of fossil jjlant life and jx-trified wood. Systematic Geology is exhibited in the east range first floor. Many interesting series are shown including cave and \-olcanic RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 121 NORTH PAVILION WEST RANGE EAST RANGE ■lV-(j-£ First Floor 'NORTH PAVILION WEST RANGE r \ IraM [ ■ ■J VM IV.1 I' M I ' - I L- '/.l !■■ I DOMESTIC I LOCAL I ANIMALS iFAU UNA° 5 0^^ . ^ .AMERICAN o[]oU OuDoaaa EAST RANGE WEST COURT 3 a , o OSTEOLOGY. COMPARATIVE ANATOMY^ ARCHEOLOGY n o n □ J: EAST COURT r^. O fyy/f/'r'. APPLIED GEOLOGY ^ ^ .^ MARINE INVERTEBRATES I 1 1 r I 1 1 1 1 I I M 1 1 I i I' . I 1.1 -r- ^^ 't TH LI[ f"spi^ MINERALOGY I I I I I i"i v'l 11 II I .1 i-^-i '■'' WEST WING EAST WING o o o o o o SOUTH PAVILION Second Floor U. S. National Musei.-m, Main Building The Mall, 10th and B Streets Page 119 122 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE deposits. More than i,ooo meteorites, including the one brought from Greenland by Admiral Peary, are in this collection. Mineralogical Collection is on the second floor east wing south hall. Excellent specimens of tourmaline, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, etc., may be seen. Older Building. The main entrance is in the north front. The North Hall, the room to the right, and the one beyond are devoted to the collections of American History. In the Hall are many cases containing personal relics of and unifomis worn by great men, swords, medals, trophies, and presents, etc., given to officers, envoys, and other representatives of the Government, by foreign rulers. A most brilliant and valuable cabinet is the collection of swords, presents, and testimonials of various kinds given to General Grant during the war and in the course of his trip around the world. Here is also found the history of naval achievement and mementos of naval battles, models of a viking ship, the "May- flower," and the "Frigate Constitution." We see the develop- ment of the first Atlantic Cable, and the original telegraph instrument of S. F. B. Morse, Franklin's own hand printing press, and many other interesting articles. Passing into an adjoining room to the right we find the unifonn and a large quantity of furniture, apparel, instru- ments, tableware, documents, etc., which belonged to Washing- ton. This room also contains personal relics, family heirlooins, documents and other historical objects of the colonial period. The exhibit of American History is continued into the adjoining room, shown on the plan as the northwest range, where the costumes of the wives of early presidents niay be seen, also glassware, fans, combs and other articles, but all are well labeled and need here no description. In the northwest court are the collections of musical instru- ments, coins and stamps. The musical instruments are from both aboriginal and civilized pcojilcs. There are about 6,000 coins and medals reprcscntati\'c of nearly every country of the world. Several Chinese and Japanese pieces of earliest type arc included. The coin collection of the United States is not com])letc but contains many rare and interesting pieces. The Post Office Department transferred to the custody of the Museum its extensive collections of postage stamps, objects and papers identified with the postal history of the country. The most important exhibits are the series of postage stamjjs, both foreign and United vStates. There are complete sets of American stam^is and a large collection of uncancelled stamps of foreign countries. The Museum continues to RAND IMcNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 123 Smithsonian and Older Museum Buildings Tlie Mall Pages 122 and 126 receive the new issues for all countries as they are distributed through the medium of the Postal Union, tlndoubtedly the collection must soon attain a foremost position in the world as regards the subject of philately. Rotunda. Passing on into the Rotunda, the plaster model of Crawford's "Liberty," sunnounting the dome of the Capitol, towers above the fountain-basin, and is surrounded by several other models of statues, the bronze or marble copies of which ornament the parks and buildings of New York, Boston, etc. All these are fully labeled. The two great Haviland memorial vases here, whose value is estimated at $16,000, were presented by the great pottery firm of Ha^^iland, in Limoges, France, and are the work of the artists Bracquemond and Delaplanche. One is entitled "1776," and the other "1876," and they are designed to be illustrative of the struggles through which this Republic has passed into prosperity. On the left of the entrance hall is a room devoted to the lace exhil)it and illustration of lace making. It contains some important examples of quality and rarity, and the collection ranks high among the museum collections of 124 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE the country. Rugs and tapestry are included in this room. Beyond this is an apartment where a great number and variety of models of boats and vessels may be examined. Various types are illustrated, from the dugout canoe to a complete model of the modern battleship. We see also the various implements used in the fisheries, and exhibits from the life saving service. Adjoining this room is the display representing the develop- ment of the firearm. Here we see the old match locks and flint locks, up through stages of improvement to the late anny rifle and machine gun. Early and primitive weapons are exhibited including the crossbow, arbalest and others. The East Hall contains the original apparatus and m.odcls relating to electricity and many mechanical arts. It illus- S.E. PAVILION SOUTH TOWER S.W. PAVILION N. E. PAVILION N.W. PAVILION MAIN ENTRANCE U. S. National Museum Ground Floor, Older Building Page 122 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 125 Georgetown University 37th and N Streets, N. W. Page 126 tratcs the development of land transportation, the aeroplane, electricity, phonograph, telegraph, etc. Two interesting exhibits are, the "John Bull" locomotive of earliest type and Dr. Langley's aerodrome. Beyond the Rotunda in the South Hall and in the East South Range are shown the interesting exhibits of the textiles. Here are arranged in series showing the raw materials and successive stages of manufacture of all important textile and cordage fibers, as silk, cotton, wool, carpets, etc. Included also in this section is a display of animal and vegetable products illustrating the utilization and manufacture of ivory, bone, hair, sponges, leather, rubber, tea, sugar, cotton and many others. The three Southwest rooms will be devoted to Mineral Technology. Extensive collections were received from exhibi- tors at the St. Louis Exposition of 1904, consisting of various models and of many examples of crude and finished mining products. The work of installing the models, some of which are large and complicated is now under way. In one of these rooms, the Southwest Court, is now installed and in operation one of the most popular exhibits, especially with the children. 126 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE This is a min^'ature coal mine operated by electricity. When the machinery is started, the various operations of mining and loading the coal in cars is shown. In the West Hall are a number of miscellaneous exhibits of interest, am.ong these are: a Chinese Memorial arch, lacquer work and arts of the Japanese, Wright's aeroplane which was the first purchased by the United States, a pin making machine, exhibits of the blast furnace and iron ore, and a display of watches and clocks. In the gallery above the Northwest Court is found the section relating to photography. Many interesting photographs are displayed as well as a study of the development of the Art. In the gallery above the Northeast Court the display of Ceramics is very beautiful and many choice pieces are in- cluded in the col- lection. Smithsonian Build- ing. The exhibition halls on the main floor have been assigned to the division of graphic arts. Here are shown the tools, materials and finished work illustrating the processes of engraving, etching, lithography, clcctrotyping, etc., through the various stages of the work. An interesting series of successive color printings is included in this important collection. The important collections in the National Herbarium of many specimens of plants and grasses are at present located in this building. While not displayed for exhibition purposes the collection may be consulted by those interested. Georgetown College. This is the School of Arts and Science of Ceorgctown University, which is under the direction of the Fathers of the Society of Jesus. This school, consisting of three departments — postgraduate, collegiate, and preparatory ^is the oldest Catholic institution of higher learning in the United States, having been founded in 17S9. The college was chartered as a university by act of Congress in 18 15, and in 1833 was empowered by the Holy See to grant degrees in philosophy and theology. The present main building, begun in 1878, is an excellent S])ecimen of Rhenish-Romanesque Franciscan Monastery Brookland Page 128 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 127 architecture. Its grounds cover 78 acres, including the beauti- ful woodland "walks" and a magnificent campus. The Riggs Library, of over 70,000 volumes, contains rare and curious works. The Coleman Museum has many fine exhibits, among them interesting Colonial relics and valuable collections of coins and medals. Not far from the college on a prominent hill, is the Astronomical Observatory, where many original investigations are made as well as class instruction given. Thirty-nine members in the faculty and 300 students comprise the present census of this school. The School of Law, situated in the vicinity of the District courts, is one of the best in America, numbering on its staff several leading jurists; the faculty now numbers 15, the students over 300. The School of Medicine is fully equipped for thorough medical training under distinguished specialists; the faculty numbers 49, the students 125. The total number of students in the university is about 750. Howard University. University Hill is between 4^ and 6th Sts. A collegiate institution founded soon after the war, as an outgrowth of the Freedmen's Bureau, for the education of colored children. Its first president was Maj.-Gen. O. O. Howard (who had resigned from the army temporarily to undertake this work) , and it has maintained itself as a flourishing institution, having some three hundred students annually. Catholic University. This is the national Institution of higher learning established by all the Catholic bishops of the United States in the Third Plenary Council of Baltimore, and was regarded by Pope Leo XIII as one of the chief honors of his pontificate. The grounds comprise 70 acres, and the visitor is at once struck by the stately appearance of the structures already erected. Divinity Hall was erected in 1889. It is a solid stone structure of 266 feet front and five stories in height; the lower floor is given up to classrooms, museums and the library; the upper floors are occupied with the lodgings of the professors and students of the department of divinity ; the top story is a well-equipped gymnasium. The Divinity Chapel is admired by all visitors. The building to the right is known as the IMcMahon Hall of Philosophy, and was dedicated in 1895. It is built of granite throughout, is 250 feet front and five stories high. It consists entirely of lecture-rooms, classrooms, laboratories and museums. It accommodates two great schools or faculties, each comprising several departments of study. The School of Philosophy com- prises departments of philosophy proper, letters, mathematics, 128 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE physics, chemistry, biology; and has attached to it a depart- ment of technology giving full instruction in civil, mechanical and electrical engineering. The School of the Social Sciences comprises departments of ethics and sociology, economics, political science and law. The fonner faculty leads up to the degree of Ph. D., the latter to all degrees in law. Immediately adjoining the university are three affiliated colleges, called St. Thomas' College, the Marist College, and the Holy Cross College. Each of these contains from 15 to 20 students of philosophy and theology, and their professors. They attend courses in the university. The divinity courses are attended only by ecclesiastics of the Catholic Church. To the legal, philosophic and scientific courses lay students are admitted, without regard to their religious creed. The Franciscan Monastery. This institution is situated in the suburb of Brookland on a hill beyond the Catholic University, with which it is affiliated; and is reached from any part of the city by the "Brookland" car, which runs two blocks from the Monastery grounds. Open every day from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. No charge for admission. Program of services furnished upon request. The Monastery was erected and dedicated in 1899, and is in charge of the Franciscan Friars. The Church is the principal attraction, containing as it does, reproductions of several of the Shrines of the Holy Land. There one sees fac-similes of the Grotto of the Annunciation in Nazareth; the Grotto of the Nativity in Bethlehem; the Altar which marks the spot where the Cross stood on Mount Calvar3^ and the Holy vSe])ul- chre, or Tomb of Christ, as they are in Jerusalem. Also there is to be seen an excellent copy of a part of the Roman Catacombs and the world-famous Grotto of Lourdes. This monastery is known as the College and Commissariat of the Holy Land, and has for its object the education of missionaries for Palestine and Egy]:)t, and the collection of alms for the rescue and preservation of the Sacred Places of the Christian religion in the Holy Land. Services on Sunday: Mass at 5.30, 6, 7.30, and 9 a.m. Benediction at 3.30 p.m. George Washington University. One of the oldest and best equipped schools of higher learning at the Ca])ital. It has preparatory school and de]X'irtments of undergraduate and postgraduate academic studies, special courses in science (Corcoran Scientific School) of medicine, dentistry and law. Its faculty and list of lecturers include a large number of men RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 129 identified with special investigations at the Smithsonian Geological Survey or in some one or more technical branches of the Army and Navy. Colleges, Academies, and Private Schools Academy of the Sacred Heart — 1621 Park Rd. American University — 1422 F St. Army and Navy Preparatory School — Connecticut Ave. 8c Upton St. Army War College — Arsenal Grounds. Atwater Lewis C. — 1406 H St. Bel court Seminary — Girard & 13th Sts. Bliss Electrical School — North Takoma, Md. Bristol School — igth St. & Mintwood Place. Humphrey Miss Faye R. — Hillside Apartments. Bureau of Education — 7th, 8th, E, & F Sts. Carnegie Institute of Washington — i6th & P Sts. Catholic University — Brookland, D. C. Columbian Institute for the Deaf — Kendall Green. Comstock Oscar Franklin — 1329 F St. Davis Mrs. Mary Gale-^2003 Columbia Rd. Deaf Gallaudet College — Kendall Green. Drillery Business College — iioo New York Ave. Emerson Institute — 1740 P St. Friends Select School — -1809-17 I St. George Washington University — 1325 H St. Georgetown Law School — 506-8 E St. Georgetown Visitation Convent — 35th & P Sts. Gunston Hall School — 1906 Florida Ave. Holt School of Music — Kenois Bldg. Holy Cross Academy — Upton extended near Pierce Mill Rd. Holy Cross College — Harewood Rd., N. E. Howard University — 6th & Howard Sts. Immaculata Seminary — Wisconsin & Nebraska Aves. Lucy Webb Havs School — 11 50 N. Capitol St. Marist College— Harewood Rd., N. E. Marist Seminary — Fort Drive & 2d St., N. E. Martha Washington Seminary — 1601 Connecticut Ave. Moskowitz Mrs. E. M.— 1751 U St. Mt. Vernon Seminary — iioo M St. National Cathedral School for Boys — Mt. St. Alban. National Music Studios — 1751 U St. National Training School for Girls — Nebraska Ave. & Conduit Rd. Naval Medical School— 23d & E Sts. 130 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Rakemann Herman C. — 1221 12th St. Rust Hall — 1 1 50 N. Capitol St. Saint Agnes School — 3017 O St. St. Cecilia's Academy — 601 E Capitol St. St. Rose's Industrial School — California Ave. & Phelps PI. Sipher Miss Sibyl — 1751 U St. Temple School of Shorthand & Typewriting — 141 7 G St. Trinity College — Michigan & Harewood Aves. Virgil Clavier Piano School — 1406 H St. Von Unschuld University of Music — 1320 F St. Washington College— 3d & T Sts., N. E. Washington College of Music — 1147 Connecticut Ave. Washington Foreign Mission Seminary — Takoma Park, D. C. Wood's Commercial School — 311 E. Capitol St. CLUBS AND SOCIETIES American Auto Association — Riggs Bldg. American Civic Association — Union Trust Bldg. American Federation of Labor — Ouray Bldg. American Highway Association — Colorado Bldg. Analostan Boat Club — Ft. New Hampshire Ave. Anti-Saloon League of America — 31 Bliss Bldg. Arion Singing Society — 1006 E St. Army and Navy Club — Connecticut Ave. & I St. Association for Prevention of Tuberculosis — 923 H St. Bannockburn Golf CIuIj — Chevy Chase, Maryland. Building Trades Headquarters & Halls — 6th & G Sts. Capital Yacht Club— Ft. 9th St. S. W. Carroll Institute Club — 916 loth St. Century Club — 815 Vennont Ave. Chevy Chase Club— Chevy Chase, Md. Club of Colonial Dames — 901 i6th St. Columbia Country Club — Chevy Chase, Md. Commercial Club — 1634 I St. Congressional Club — 1432 K St. Cosmos Club — Madison Place & H St. Country Club — Tcnnallytown, Md. Daughters of the American Revolution — 17th & D Sts. Dumbarton Club — Wisconsin Ave. & R St. Eagle Club — 919 H St. Elks Club— 919 H St. General Trafiic Association — 715 14th St. Jolly Fat Men's Clul)— 933 D St. Kappa Alpha — 15 17 P St. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 131 Army and Navy Club Connecticut Ave. and I Street Page 130 Kappa Sigma — iioo Vermont Ave. Knights of Pythias Hall Association — 1012 9th St. Loyal Legion — Kellogg Bldg. Masonic Temple New — 13th St. & New York Ave. Mercantile Club — 2901 14th St. Metropolitan Club — 17th & H Sts. Montessori Educational Association — 1840 Kaloramo Rcl. National Association of Letter Carriers — Traders National Bank Bldg. National Biographical Society — Colorado Bldg. National Canners Association — Woodward Bldg. National Congress of Mothers — Washington L & T Bldg. National Geographic Society — i6th & M Sts. National Press Club — 601 15th St. Officers Club — Washington Barracks. Phi Alpha Delta Law— 1 6th St. Phi Delta Upsilon— The Hillside. Phi Sigma Kappa — ^1717 S St. Playhouse— 1 814 N St. Potomac Boat Club— Ft. 36th St. Retail Merchants Association — 1202 F St. Riding and Hunt Club of Washington — 2 2d & P Sts. Scottish Rite — 433 3d St. Soldiers, Sailors and Marines Club — 3 1 7 C St. Sigma Alpha Epsilon — 1236 Euclid St. Sigma Chi — 1432 M St. Sigma Phi Epsilon — 1502 Vermont Ave. Taft Chapter Phi Alpha Delta— 1914 i6th St. Thcta Delta Chi— 1788 Columbus Rd. Touring Club — Colorado Bldg. University Club— N. W. Cor. 15th & I Sts. United States Press Association — Colorado Bldg. Washington Club — 17 10 I vSt. Washington Base Ball Club — Southern Bldg. Washington Canoe Club — Potomac River. 132 RAND M c X A L L Y W A S H I X G T O N GUIDE French Embassy 2460 16th Street Washington Chess and Whist Club— 908 14th St. Washington Country Club — Jewell Station, Alexandria County, Va. Washington Humane Society — 14 12 gth St. Washington Saengerbund — 3 1 4 C St. Washington Suburban Club — 4S00 Georgia Ave. Woman's Christian Association Home— 1 7 19 13th St. Woman's Christian Temperance Union — 522 6th St. Young Men's Christian Association — 1736 G St. Young Men's Hebrew Association — 415 M St. Young Women's Christian Association — 936 F St. EMBASSIES AND LEGATIONS TO THE UNITED STATES Argentine — Legation, 1728 21st St. Austria-Hungary — Embassy, 1304 i8th St. Belgium — Legation, 201 1 Massachusetts Ave. Bolivia — Legation, 1633 i6th St. Brazil — Embassy, 1013 16th St. Chile — Legation, 1327 i6th St. China — Legation, 2001 19th St. Colombia — Legation, The Portland. Costa Rica — Legation, 1329 iSth St. Cuba — Legation, The Parkwood. Denmark — Legation, 1605 2 2d St. Dominican Republic — Legation, Southern Building. France — Embassy, 2460 16th St. Germany — Embassy, 1435 Massachusetts Ave. Great Britain — Embassy, 1300 Connecticut Ave. Greece — Legation, The Wyoming. Guatemala — Legation, 1745 Rhode Island Ave. Haiti — Legation, 1429 Rhode Island Ave. Honduras — Legation, Hotel Gordon. Italy — Embassy, 1400 New Hampshire Ave. Japan — Embassy, 1310 N St. Mexico — Embassy, 1413 I St. Netherlands — Legation, 19 10 F St. Nicaragua — Legation, Stronleigh Court. RAND M c X A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 133 Nonva}^ — Legation, The Wyoming. Panama — Legation, 436 Southern Building. Paraguay — Legation, 2017 Massachusetts Ave. Peru — Legation, 2223 R St. Portugal — Legation, Stonleigh Court. Russia — Embassy, 15 17 L St. Salvador — Legation, Hotel Bellevue. Siam — Legation, 1721 Rhode Island Ave. Spain — Legation, 1519 New Hampshire Ave. Sweden — Legation, 1820 N St. Switzerland^ — Legation, 2013 Hillyer Place. Turkey — Embassy, 171 1 i6th St. Uruguay — Legation, 1734 N St. Venezuela — Legation, 10 17 i6th St. Executive Mansion, North Front THE WHITE HOUSE Executive Mansion. George Washington was present at the laying of the comer stone of the White House in 1^,92, in what then was simply David Burns' old fields stretching down to the Potomac. This was the first public building to be erected. John Adams was the first president to live in the building (1800), which was at that time so new and damp that his wife was obliged to have a literal house-warming to dry the interior sufficiently for safety to health. / 134 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Entrance Hall, Executive Mansion Page 133 The architect, James Hoban, who had won reputation by- building some of the fine houses on the Battery in Charleston, (took his idea of the mansion from the house of the Irish Dukox of Leinster, in Dublin, who had, in turn, copied the Italian stylc,^ The house stands squarely north and southj Its cost up to the present exceeds $1,500,000. In 181^ the British set fire to the building. Upon completion of repairs the building was painted white, to cover the ravages of fire on its freestone walls, a color which has been kept ever since, and is likely to remain as long as the old house does. It was reopened for the New Year's reception of President Monroe in 181 8./ The president's grounds consist of some 8o_ acres sloping down to the Potomac Flats and are open freely to the public. Here, in wann weather, the Marine Band gives outdoor concerts in the afternoon. It is here, too, on the sloping terrace just behind the White House, that the children of the city gather on Easter Monday to roll their colored eggs — a pretty custom, the origin of which has been quite forgotten. Coming from Pennsylvania Ave., along the semi-circular carriage drive that leads u]:) from the ojjcn gates, (the visitor enters the stately vestibule through the front portico, from whose middle ujjper window Lincoln matlc so many imjoromptu addresses during the warj Here will be found doorkeepers, who direct callers upon the president up the staircase to the offices, and fonn visitors, who wish to sec the public rooms of RAND M c X A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 135 the mansion, into little parties, which are conducted under their guidance. (^The first public apartment visited is that on the left as you enter, occupying the eastern wing of the building and called the East Room, open to any one, daily, lo a.m. to 2 p.m. -^ — ,-==—- This, which was originally designed for a banquet hall, and so used until_i^2^, is now the state reccptiOTrroam. ft is^,Q it. in Icm^th^ 40^ ft. wide and 22 ft. higli^'and'has eight beautiful marble mantels, sunnounted by tall mirrors. The embellishments are renewed every eight or ten years, reflecting the changing fashionin decoration; but the crystal chandeliers, which depend from each of the three great panels of the ceiling (dating, with their__supporting pillars, from Grant's time) are- never changed, and whatever the style, the profusion of gilding and mirrors gives a brilliant background for the gorgeously arrayed assemblages that gather here on state occasions, when the hall is a blaze of light, and a garden of foliage and flowers from the great conservatories. Full-length portraits of George and Martha Washington are conspicuous among the pictures on the walls, the work of an obscure English artist who copied Stuart's style — a "very feeble imitation," Healy pronounced it. "Every visitor is told," remarks Mr. E. V. Smalley, who explained these facts in The Century Magazine^" that Mrs. Madison cut this paint- ing from out of its frame with a pair of shears, to save it from the enemy, when she fled from the town (in 18 1 4), but in her own letters describing the hasty flight, she says that Mc^J^u^tis, the nephew of Washington, hastened over from Ar- lington to save the preci- ous portrait, and that a servant cut the outer frame with an axe so that the canvas could be removed, stretched on the inner frame." The portrait of Mrs. Martha Washington is r^ . ^ .-»/,• " . Corridor, Executive IVlansion a modern composition Page 133 136 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE by E. B. Andrews of Washington. A full-length portrait of Thomas Jefferson, also by Mr. Andrews, and one of Lincoln, by Coggeshall, also occupy panels here. /^ Except the East Room, the official apartments are visible / only by special request, or when, at intervals, a custodian leads (^ a party through them. J East Room, Executive Mansion ^l^ Page 133 '' Adjoining the East Room at its southern end is the Green Room, so named from the general color of its decorations and furniture, which are traditional. There are touches of gilt everywhere upon the ivory-like woodwork. The rococo open- work in the tops of the windows, from which the curtains hang, is noticeable. Here hang several notable portraits. A full- length, by Huntington, President of tne National Academy, of Mrs. Benjamin Harrison, which was presented by the Daughters of the American Revolution, of which society she was president. By the same artist is a full-length of Mrs. Rutherford B. Hayes, presented by the Women's Christian Tem]:)erance Union, commemorating Mrs. Hayes' courage in maintaining the cold water regime at the Executive Mansion. Other portraits here are of Mrs. James K. Polk, of the second wife of President Tyler, and of the wife of Major Van Buren, son of President Martin Van Buren, known in his time as "Prince Harry." RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 137 Next to this is the somewhat larger (40 x 30) Blue Room, whose decorations are in pale blue and gold. The ornaments are presents from the French. The mantel clock was a present from Napoleon to Lafayette and was given by the latter to the United States. The fine vases were presented by the President of the French Republic on the occasion of the opening of the Franco-American cable. President and Mrs. Cleveland werei- married in this room in 1886. ^ X The Red Room, west of the Blue Room, has a more home- ,- like look than the others, by reason of its piano, mantel orna-/ ments, abundant furniture and pictures, and the fact that it*' is used as a reception room and private parlor by the belles ofc:j the mansion. The prevailing tone is Pompeiian red, and' the walls are covered with portraits as follows: Full-length of President Arthur, by Daniel Huntington, N. A. Full-length of Cleveland, by Eastman Johnson. Full-length of Benjamin Harrison, by Eastman Johnson. Half-length of James A. Buchanan. Half-length of Martin Van Buren, by Healy. Half-length of Zachary Taylor, by Healy. Half-length of John Adams, by Healy. Blue Room, Executive Mansion Page 133 All these rooms open upon the corridor running length-wise the building and separated from the vestibule by a partition of glass. "The light coming through the partition of wrinkled 13S RAND M c N A L L Y W A S 11 I N G T O X GUIDE Red Room, Executive Mansion Page 133 stained glass mosaic makes a marvel- ously rieh and gorgeous effect, fall- ing upon the gilded niches where stand dwarf palmetto trees, the silvery network of the ceil- ing, and the sumpt- uous furniture." In this corridor hang several por- traits of presidents, including a full- length of Washing- ton, by an Ecua- dorian artist, Cedana of Quito, and presented by him; and of Polk, Garfield (by Andrews), Hayes, Fillmore, Tyler, Grant (by LeClair), and Jackson — one of Andrews' early efforts. Many of the older ones are by Healy, who painted portraits of Presidents J. Q. Adams, Tyler, Jackson, Van Buren, Taylor, Fillmore, Polk, Pierce, Buchanan, Lincoln and Grant. Each president is supposed to leave his portrait here. l/^ The State Dining room is at the south end of this corridor, on the left, in the corner of the house. It measures 40 x 30 ft., and is in the Colonial style, the prevailing colors being a dull yellow, meant to light up warmly under gaslight. The table service is exceedingly beautiful, and is adorned with various representations of the flora and fauna of America. The new set of cut glass was made at White Mills, Pa., and is regarded as the finest ever produced in this country. It consists of 520 separate pieces, and was especially ordered by the Government for the White House. On each piece is engraved the coat of amis of the United States. The execution of the order occu]:)ied several months, and cost $6,000. The table can be made to accommodate as many as fifty-four persons, but the usual number of guests is from thirty to forty. The western door of the corridor leads into the conservatory, which is always in flourishing beauty; and opposite the state dining room is the private dining room, a cozy ajxirtment looking out upon the Avenue. The ])ri\'ate stairway is near its door. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 139 The business offices of the President and his secretaries are on the second floor, at the eastern end, and are reached by a stairway at the left of the vestibule. At the head of the stairway sits a messenger who directs persons into the large ante-room, which is in reality a hallway of the house, and to the door of the office of the Secretary to the President, who occupies the corner room southeast. /,- The President's room and Cabinet room are in the Executive office, west of the White House, which was built in 1902-03. --The Executive Mansion is well guarded. A large force of watchmen, including police officers, is on duty inside the mansion at all hours, and a continuous patrol is maintained by the local police of the grounds immediately surrounding the mansion. As an additional safeguard, automatic alarm signals are fixed in different parts of the house, and there are telephones and telegraphs to the military posts, so that a strong force of police and soldiers could be obtained almost at a moment's notice. Green Room, Executive Mansion Page 133 OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE AT THE CAPITAL The President, as the head of the nation, is entitled to first place whenever he mingles in social life. In the popular mind the second place is accorded the Vice-President by virtue of his 140 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE State Dining Room, Executive Mansion Page 133 right of succession to the highest office in the gift of the people, by the death, resignation or disabihty of the President. The relative precedence of Cabinet officers has been established by the wording of the Presidential Succession bill. It is as fol- lows: The Secretary of State, the Secretary of the Treasury, the Secretary of War, the Attorney-General, the Postmaster- General, the Secretary of the Navy, the Secretary of the Interior, and the Secretary of Agriculture. The official designa- tion, preceded by the phrase, "The Honorable " is the correct form in writing to any one of them. In con- versation, a Cabinet officer is addressed as "Mr. Secretary." // The official social season extends from New Year to Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent. All the fonnal hospitalities at the Plxecutive Mansion occur within this period. \0n New Years, the President generally holds a reception, which begins at II o'clock and closes at 2 p.m.) The Vice-President and the Cabinet are first received and then the President assisted by the Vice-President and members of his Cabinet receives first the Diplomatic Corps; after that body, the Supreme Court, Senators and Members of Congress, officers of RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 141 the army and navy, department chiefs, etc. ( The last hour IS given to the pubHc. ^ ^.^ During the season three or more receptions are held evenings at 9.30. The first is in honor of the Diplomatic Corps and the others for the Judiciary, the Congress, and the Army, Navy and Marine Corps. Invitations are sent to those named, to other officials of the executive and legislative departments, and to acquaintances of the President and family among residents of the capital and other cities. Dr glomats^ wear unifonns and officers of the three branches of the service also appear in uniforms, j' Guests unknown\ to the doorkeepers should be prepared to show invitationsJ Advance notice is given in the daily papers of the date, ^very season the Pr eside nt's wife gives a series of rcmsicals. The President is assisted on these occasions by his wife, the wife of the Vice-President, and the Cabinet ladies. Having laid aside their wraps several httndred persons are usually assembled in the East Room when the President and wife and the receiving party descend to the Blue Room, where these receptions are held. Guests approach the Blue Room through the Red Room. Each person an- nounces his or her name to the President's aide who stands at the threshold of the Blue Room. He repeats it to one of the President's aides who stands next to the President and who presents each person to him. The President always shakes hands. The ladies assisting, shake hands with each person who offers a hand to them. A knowledge of this fact on the part of strangers will avoid mutual embarrassment. Some ladies in the ultra-fashionable set make deep courtesies to each person instead of shaking hands when going down the line at these receptions, but the custom has not grown in favor. If not invited to join those back of the line, guests pass through the Green Room to the Dining Room where refreshments are served. Guests generally return to the East Room for social intercourse, /in this stately apartment the gathering assumes its most brilliant aspect. ' At New Year's public reception, persons approach the White House by the west gate and a line is formed, which frequently extends as far west as 17th St., those coming last taking their places at the end. After the threshold of the White House is crossed, the line is single file through the vestibule, the corridor, and the Red Room to the Blue Room. As in the case of a guest at a card reception, each person an- nounces his or her name to the aide, by whom it is repeated to the Senior Aide, who makes the presentations to the President. 142 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Cabinet Room, Executive Mansion Page 133 These niles are also observed when the wife of the President holds a public reception. The state dinners alternate with the levees. The first dinner is given in honor of the Cabinet, the second in honor of the Diplomatic Corps, and the third in honor of the Judiciar}-. The President and his wife receive their guests in the East Room, an amiy officer making the presentations. When the dinner is announced, the President gives his ami to the lady whose husband's official position entitles her to precedence and leads the way to the state dining room, the wife of the President following immediately with the highest ranking gentleman. [/ An invitation to dine with the President is regarded as so great an honor that it may not be declined, excepting where serious reasons can be stated in the note of regret. A prior engagement is not considered a sufficient reason, and in fact, nothing less than personal ill-health, or serious illness or a death in one's family would excuse one from obedience to a rnmons to the table of the President. In conversation, the Chief Executive is addressed as "Air. "President." In writing as "The President of the United States." The wife of the President enjoys tlie same pri\ileges as her husband. She receives first calls from all and relurns no \-isits. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 143 Persons desiring an interview with her express their wish by letter. ^ As the President and wife may or may not make calls, it is entirely at their option whether or not they accept invi- tations. Under no circumstances, however, will either the President or his wife cross the threshold of any foreign embassy or legation, although members of their family may do so. The hours for the reception of visitors at the Executive Mansion change with each administration. Those having business with the President arrange for interviews with his private Secretary, whose proper title is Secretary to the President. ^ The Vice-President and wife make only first calls on the President and wife. They may enjoy the same immunity from returning calls. The same courtesy which recognizes the members of the Cabinet as in the family of the President, includes the Senatorial circle in the official family of the Vice- President. The Vice-President and wife, therefore, return Senatorial calls. They receive on New Year's at their own residence, first official callers and then the public. Throughout the season, the wife of the Vice-President receives callers on Wednesday afternoons from 3 to 5. In conversation, the Vice President is addressed as "Mr. Vice-President." The wife of the Speaker of the House of Representatives receives on Wednesday at the same hours as the Cabinet ladies. The Speaker is addressed as "Mr. Speaker." /^ The Cabinet ladies receive the public on stated Wednesday afternoons during the season, from 3 to 5. The name of each guest is announced by the butler as the hostess is approached. Each hostess is usually assisted, in these fonnal hospitalities, by a number of ladies — young girls predominating. They are expected to address visitors and to make their stay pleasant. Callers, except under exceptional circumstances, do not extend their stay over ten or fifteen minutes, and it is not necessary that any good-bye should be exchanged with the hostess when leaving. As these receptions are frequently attended by from four to eight hundred people, who for the most part arc strangers, the reason for the slight disregard of the usual polite form is obvious. Refreshments are not often offered. Visitors leave cards. J/ Callers wear ordinary visiting dress. The hostess and assistants wear high-necked gowns, however elaborate their material and make. This fact is mentioned because a few years ago the rex'crse was the case, and low-necked evening dresses were generally worn by the receiving party at afternoon 144 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Stairway Executive Mansion Page 133 receptions. •/ At that period also, men frequently appeared on such occasions in full-dress eve- ning suits, swallow-tail coats, etc. In fact, full-dress on both men and women was not un- usual at the President's New Year reception a dozen years ago, under the impression then current that street clothes were not in keeping W'ith a function second to none in point of ceremony from our standpoint, and which was attended by the Diplomatic Corps in unifonn or in dazzling military or naval uniforms. Customs in these matters have changed so en- tirely that a violation of the accepted fashion makes of the offender a subject of ridicule. The proper costume for a woman to wear to the President's New Year reception is her best visiting dress, with bonnet or hat, the same that she would wear at an afternoon reception. A man will dress for the President's New Year reception as he will for any other cere- monious daylight event. Neither lownecked gowns nor dress suits are pemiissible until after 6 o'clock. The same proprieties of modern custom in dress should be observed when attending evening receptions at the White House or elsewhere. Evening dress is imperative, which, in the case of woman, may mean as elaborate or as simple a toilet as the wearer may select, but it implies an uncovered head. Bonnets or hats must not be worn. By a rule adopted during the first Cleveland administration, the Cabinet ladies do not return calls generally, but do send their cards, once or twice each season as an acknowledgment. The Cabinet ladies make the first call upon the ladies of the Supreme Court circle, the families of Senators, and the families of foreign ambassadors. Certain days of the week are set apart by custom for making calls upon particular groups, and no mistake should be made in this respect. The ladies of the Supreme Court families receive callers on Monday afternoons, Congressional families on Tuesdays, the Cabinet families on Wednesdays, and the Senatorial families on Thursdays, with the exception of those RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 145 residing on Capitol Hill, who observe the day of that section, which is Monday. By virtue of another old custom, Tuesday is K St. day; Thursday, calling day for upper H and I Sts; Friday for residents of upper F and G Sts; Friday for Massa- chusetts Ave., and Saturday for Connecticut Ave. and vicinity. Friday (generally speaking) is Diplomatic Day. Calling hours are from 3 to 6. //The discussion which has been going on for years, and is now as far from settlement as ever, as to whether Supreme Court Justices and families pay the first call to Senators and families, or vice versa, is only of interest to the stranger as a phase of Washington life showing the grave importance given to these points by some official households and of the absolute indif- ference with which they are viewed by others. The Diplomatic Corps consists of eleven embassadors L representing France, Gennany, Turkey, Italy, Brazil, Russia, ' Japan, Mexico, Austria-Hungary, Great Britain and Spain, and twenty-nine ministers plenipotentiary of which a complete list will be found on other pages of this book. They are ranked in the order of their seniority. Each embassy and legation has a corps of secretaries and attaches. The British Ambassador is dean of the corps, having been the first ambassador appointed. Ambassadors are given precedence by ministers. By virtue of long established custom, to quote Thomas Jefferson, "foreign ministers, from the necessity of making themselves known, pay the first visit to the ministers of the nation, which is returned." Ambassadors claim that they only call on the President be- cause that is the habit of European countries. It is generally understood that all persons, official or otherwise, pay the first call to the embassies. The ladies of the Diplomatic Corps have no special day on which to receive callers, each household making its own rule in this respect. ^ THE CAPITOL The Capitol fronts east and stands on a plateau 88_feet above the level of the Potomac. /- Original Building. The southeast comer stone of the original building was laid on the i8th of September, 1793, by President Washington, with Masonic ceremonies. The north wing was finished in 1800, and the Government, which came from Philadelphia, bag and baggage in a single sloop, took . possession in October of that year. The south wing in 181 1. A A wooden passageway connected them. On the 24th of August, 1 8 14, the interior of both wings was destroyed by fire, set by the British. The damage to the building was immc- ^J^_AN_D_Mc^VALLY WASHINGTON GUI DE c s £g6 c'oO " O [ W ^ = oft:* o-. a; -o o *- o d |£<2 E-. '^ o °^ o ~ SZX ° ~o.~ ^ op-r= J 6& £2 3gP = . "-ICO N N (N IN M NOCMTOCOS a i 1 > a fi 1 c o a a o c O o « a ss a ? o o o« o a is Ci.2 h o 2 a a p . a a o Eg O 3 ^a ;g ij a ^O o'S m'S ^Esisi _J u t c > ex o 3 . St. fe Q 01 lO o !0 H O vJ P >6 d O to s ■a £ o a 5 c ?„ < o C 3 o o ^° f^ i.s W W £ ai O n ii 3 u^ "-s V. (U o t: « o (U * JC m 5.5 5- a a -• « a £ c2 a o C! OC PO u ■^ri o ©■M O O Office Sup re ng roo prpme •C 3 O 3 ex o U a gS 3 V. f:=^ . '^■?. x: o t5 <4 w o § a ?: - a ar; o o^ ^ oi^S " -HMm')'incct~ooc:o-; 00 ci 6 -•■ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ' - f>i Oi'>\'>i'>i -T-i ■N M (N m 5 c: JL i bC o 3 S •3 s PL, 3 o < Li O c §1 >> c o (U o o c S :iH B ." -3 PU £ ■n -a . lu. en E ^ a a = ^ e E E *" pa O w OS 6 3 1-3 a c o a: < is o — K c a 3 o a D ■ ^ "^ ~'~ 7" T'?' T~^ O oi :c h- ^ "^ o »o tO O iC o 148 RAND McNALLY WA.SHINGTON GUIDE The Capitol Page 145 diatcly repaired. In 1818 the central portion of the buildinjj; was commeneed, undeFThe' architectural superintendence of Charles Bulfinch. The ori<^inal building was finally completed in 1827. Its cost, including the grading of the grounds, altera- tions, and repairs, up to 1827, was $2,433,844.13. Extensions. The corner stone of the extensions was laid on the 4th of July, 1851, by President Fillmore, Daniel Webster officiating as orator. The House extension was first occupied for legislative purposes December 16, 1857, and the Senate, January 4, 1859. The value of the Capitol Building and grounds is about 526,000,000. The entire length of the building from north to south is /751 ft. 4 in., its greatest dimension from east to west 350 ft., the area covered by the building is 153,1 12 sq. ft. Dome. The Dome of the original central building was constructed of wood, covered with copper. This was replaced in 1856 by the present structure of cast-iron. It was coin- pleted in 1865. The entire weight of iron used is 8,909,200 pounds. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 149 The bronze statue of Freedom which crowns the dome is 19 ft. 6 in. high and weighs 12,985 pounds. It was modeled by Crawford. The height of the dome above the base line of the east front is 287 ft. 5 in. The height from the top of the balustrade of the building is 217 ft. 11 in. The greatest diameter at the base is 135 ft. 5 '\x\..l^ The rotunda is 97 ft. 6 in. in diameter, and its height from the floor to the top of the canopy is 180 ft. 3 in. The Senate Chamber is 1 13 ft. 3 in. in length by 80 ft. 3 in. in width, and 36 ft. in height. The galleries will accommodate 1,000 people. The Representatives' Hall is 139 ft. in length by 93 ft. in width and 36 ft. in height. O^ce Buildings. The value of the Senate and House office buildings and grounds is as follows: Senate Building, $3,732,078; grounds, $746,111; total, $4,478,189. House build- ing, $3,342,011; grounds, $743,452; total, $4,085,463. • — The present arrangement of the park dates from 1874, when it was enlarged to its present enclosure of 46 acres, and beautified by the late Frederick Law Olmstead. The splendid marble terraces on the western side of the building, and their orna- mental approaches, together costing $200,000, are a part of the general scheme of outdoor decoration, which each year becomes more admirable as the trees and shrubberies mature. A pretty feature of the north- western part of the park is the ivy-covered rest-house, one window of which looks into a grotto. The low stone towers, becoming vine-covered in the western parts of the park are the orifices through which is drawn the supply of fresh air for the ventilation of the Senate Chamber and Hall of Representa- tives. Facing the main entrance stands Greenough's statue of Washington. A The city has grown behind, 'rather than before, the state- house of the nation, as it was ex- pected to do. This contingency has been met by improvements at the rear of the building to Bronze Door, The Capitol increase the stateliness of its Page 151 150 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Chief Justice Marshall Terrace, West Side of Capitol Page 72 approaches, so that the Capitol now has two faces, different, but substantially equal in merit. The western front, although on the side from which most visitors approach, re- quires a long, toilsome, climbing of terraces and steps, whereas the street cars carry pas- .' scngers to the level of the basement on the south side, and on the north side almost to the very entrance. It is therefore easier, as well as more proper, to begin one's survey of the great struc- ture at the architect's / original front door. I The porticos of the wings have each 22 columns, and 10 more columns on each of their northern and western fronts. The pediment of the southern wing, which contains the House of Representatives, has no statuary, but the fagade of the northern wing, where the Senate sits, is doubly adorned. The immense group by Thomas Crawford, which fills the t}nnpanum is emblematic of American progress, which has displaced the Indians with the arts of agriculture, commerce, and industrial production, supported by the sword. This is considered the chef-d'oeuvre of this talented American sculptor and will repay careful study. Crawford was paid $17,000 for the models, and the cutting of the marble (from Lee, Mass.) by several skilled Italian carvers cost $26,000. The grand central portico, which dates from 1825, is 160 ft. wide, and has 24 columns carrying a pediment of 80 ft. span filled wdth an allegorical group cut in sandstone, after a design by John Quincy Adams when Secretary of State. It was executed by Luigi Pcrsico, a prominent Roman sculptor, who had many commissions here. This group represents the "Genius of America." America, anncd, is resting her shield upon an altar, while an eagle perches at her feet. She seems listening to IIo])c, and ]>()inls, in response, to Justice, who holds RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE lol the Constitution, inscribed September 17, 17S7 (the date of its adoption), and her scales. The colossal statuary upon the south side of the portico represents Columbus, and is entitled "The Discovery of Amer- ica." The sculptor was Persico (1846), who exactly copied the annor frorn a suit worn by Columbus, yet preserved in Genoa. The opposite group (north) is by Horatio Greenough, and is popularly called "The Rescue." Each of these groups cost $24,000. , The inauguration of Presidents of the United States has taken place upon this portico since the time of Jackson. A draped staging is extended outward to accommodate the high officials who form a part of the ceremonial, and here the oath of office is administered by the Chief Justice in full view of the multitude of citizens. In the center of this portico is the great Rogers bronze door which opens directly into the rotunda under the dome, and is among the most interesting objects at the Capitol. It was designed in Rome in 1858 by Randolph Rogers, who received $8,000 for his plaster models, and was cast in Munich, in 1861, by F. Von Muller, who was paid $17,000 in gold, then at a high preniium. It is 19 ft. high and weighs 10 tons. The leaves or valves of the door stand in superbly enriched casing, and when opened fold back into fit- ting jambs. ^.-^^Each leaf is divided into 4 panels, in addition to the transom panel under the arch. Each panel contains a complete scene in alto- relievo. The scenes por- trayed constitute the prin- cipal events in the life of Columbus and the dis- covery of America, with an ornate enrichment of emblematic designs. On the key of the arch of the casing is a head of Colum- bus, and on the sides of the casing are four typical statuettes in niches 'The Rescue" on Capitol Steps 152 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE arranged chronologically— Asia, , Africa, Europe, and America.^ The remainder of the casing is embellished with a running border of ancient armor, banners, and heraldic designs, and at the bot- tom, on either side, an anchor, all in basso-relievo, and emblematic of navigation and conquest'. On the frame of each leaf of the door, set in niches, are i6 statuettes of the patrons and contemporaries of Columbus, given in the order of their association with the an- nouncement and execution of his theory of geographical exploration. The first 8 figures are associated in pairs when the doors are closed, and divided when opened. All are labeled. The panels illustrate the career of Columbus. Between the panels is a series of heads, repres- enting the historians of the voyages of Columbus, prominent among whoin are Irving and Prescott. Niches on each side of this imposing entrance hold statues of Mars or War (on the right — a noble figure of a Roman war- rior) and of Ceres, or Peace (on the left — a female figure with flowers and fruits), modeled by Persico and costing together Si 2,000; while above the door is a bust of Washington, crowned by Fame and Peace, which was sculptured by A. Capellano, in 1827. Capellano is not known beyond his carvings here. Passing through the bronze doors, we enter the Rotunda. It occupies nearly the whole width of the center of the building, and is unbroken to the summit of the dome. In the vast and somewhat obscure space of this immense apartment only a colossus, like the Statue of Liberty in New York harbor, would seem a fitting ornament, and here it was proposed to erect Greenough's figure of Washington. The marble panels carved in high relief over the doors arc as follows: The eastern, or main, entrance and exit, by Enrico Causici of Verona, a pu])il of Canova, represents the "Landing of the Pilgrims"; that over the northern door is by N. Gevelot, a Frenchman, and pictures William Penn making a treaty with the Delaware Indians ; over the southern door is another group "Columbus" on Capitol Steps Page 151 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 1.53 by Causici, "Daniel Boone in Conflict with the Indians," in which Boone's face was copied from a portrait by Hardinge; and over the western door is Antonio Capellano's "Pocahontas Saving the Life of John Smith." These sculptors were all men who worked here about 1827, and each was paid $3,500. The historical paintings (18 by 12 ft.), familiar to everybody through innumerable reproductions, even upon the paper currency and Columbian postage stamps of the Government, are by American artists. Each has attached to it a label and key-picture, giving the names and position of all the persons represented by carefully drawn portraits in its groups. They fall into two classes — "Early Historical" and "Revolutionary." The former are to a great degree imaginative, particularly the De Soto ; but the latter are accurately true to the times and scenes they purport to represent. In the first class is the "Landing of Columbus at San Salvador," in 1492, painted in 1839 by John Vanderlyn, who was paid $10,000 for it in 1842. The "Discovery of the Mississippi by De Soto," in 1 54 1, was painted by Wm. H. Powell, in 1850, and the price was $12,000. The "Baptism of Pocahontas at Jamestown," in 1 6 13, is nearer the truth, since the artist, J. G. Chapman, Senate Chamber, Capitol Page 170 154 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE "Resignation of Washington as Commander in Chief at AnnapoHs," Rotunda of Capitol Page 155 did his best to represent the portraits and costumes of Rolfc, Sir Thomas Dale, and other Virginian colonists and Indian chieftains, who may be supposed present at the ceremony. Its cost was $10,000, and its date is 1836. The last of this colonial series, by Professor R. W. Weir, date 1840, price $10,000, is a picture of the farewell service on board the unseaworthy ' ' Speed- well," before it sailed from Delft Haven (the port of Leyden, Holland) for America, bearing the first colony of Pilgrims, who were finally landed on Plymouth Rock by the "Mayflower." The four Revolutionary paintings are by Col. John Trum- bull (i 756-1843), who was a son of Gov. Jonathan Trumbull of Connecticut. For several months the young officer was aid and military secretary to Washington. After the war he studied in Europe, and conceived an aml)ition to produce this series of national paintings, in which each face is drawn from life, as far as sittings could be obtained, while others are co]:)ied from approved portraits. This faithfulness of detail interferes with the best artistic results, giving a certain hardness to all parts, but increases the historical value of the compositions. They were painted between 18 17 and 1824, and cost the nation $32,000 — a large sum in those days. Beside each picture is a "key," by consulting which the names of most of the persons may be learned. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 155 The first is "Signing; the Declaration of Independence" in the Old Hall in Philadelphia in 1776, the arrangement of the group of figures having been made as Jefferson, Franklin, and others of the fathers described it to him. The presiding officer is John Hancock. The "Surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga" to General Gates is from sketches made by Trum- bull on the spot, October 17, 1777. The artist was also present at the "Surrender of Lord Cornwallis at Yorktown," por- trayed in the third painting, where the British are marching between the lines of the American and French Allies. The fourth of the series is "The Resignation of Washington," as commander-in-chief of the American armies, which took place, closely as depicted, at Annapolis on December 23, 1783, where Congress was then in session in the old Maryland State House. The commission he then surrendered is preserved in the Depart- ment of State, and the coat worn by Washington upon this occasion may be seen at the National Museum. "Surrender of Burgoyne at Saratoga," Rotunda of Capitol The arabesque designs in the panels above the eight paint- ings by Causici and Capcllano, contain medallion heads of the four great pioneers of American discovery — Columbus, Raleigh, Cabot and La Salle. They were done in 1827, and cost $9,500. The series of paintings on the fric.e, just beneath the gallery were commenced in 1878 Ijy the talented Constantino Brumidi. They are chiaroscuro drawings in distemper — that 156 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE "Apotheosis of Washington" in Dome of Capitol is, expressed merely in light and shade and painted with a glutinous medium upon the plaster. A procession of somewhat conventional figures in strong relief, imitating the alto-relievos which the architect had intended to place here, beginning over the western door and progressing to the right (north) and so on around, marches through the cardinal scenes in American progress. Brumidi had cornpleted less than half of the circle when he died, in 1880. The work was then continued by his Italian assistant, Costagini, but is not yet completed. The estimated expense of so decorating this frieze was $10,000 — the favorite congressional figure for art pieces — and it has often been s])ent to worse adwantage than here. On the canopy of the dome is Brumidi 's masterpiece : The Apotheosis of Washington. Glasses will help one to study it from the floor, but it should be examined from the RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 157 gallery to be appreciated. The artist worked upon it several years, and the cost was nearly $50,000, of which Brumidi received $39,500. The central figure is Washington, with Freedom and Victory at his right and left, and around them are female figures to represent the original States of the Union. The border of the canopy contains six groups of emblematic figures, representing the Fall of Tyranny, Agriculture, Mechanics, Commerce, the Marine, and the Arts and Sciences. Constantino Brumidi was bom in Rome in 1805, studied art, and became a member of the Academy at thirteen. He painted frescoes in several Roman Palaces, and worked in the Vatican for three years under Gregory XVI. The tradition is that he became involved in the European revolution of 1848, and was thrown into prison, whence he was freed, on account of his reputation, by the influence of Pius IX, but was banished from Italy. At any rate, after the French took possession of Rome he came to America, where he remained until 1854, and then w^ent to Mexico to do frescoes. Returning to Washington, he was employed to take charge of the mural decorations of the Capitol. He began with the room of the House Committee on Agriculture, and these pictures are said to have been the first frescoes of the United States. He also did frescoes for St. Stephen's Church of New York and for the Phildelphia Cathedral. His death, in 1880, followed an injury received upon the scaffold while painting the frieze of the rotunda. His work is strong in drawing, excellent in idea, and bril- liant in color, and is in the style of the best Italian methods. Whenever he represented a stated event or included a portrait he took great pains that it should be truthful. The ascent of the dome may be made by a stair- way (376 steps) opening from the passage to the Senate wing, and it is pos- sible to climb even to the ^,^^b,^ ^^^^ Capitoi foot of the statue, v isitors Page 173 158 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE are ordinarily contented, however, to stop at the great galleries, exterior and interior, which encircle the base of the dome. The view thence is an exceedingly wide and interesting one, but differs little from that obtained from the summit of the Washington Monument, which can be reached by an elevator. Statues now adorn the rotunda, as follows: Lincoln (marble statue) by Vin- nie Ream Hoxie; Alexander Hamilton (i 756-1804) (marble statue) by Horatio Stone; Col. Edward D. Baker, killed at Ball's Bluff in 1861 (marble statue) by Horatio Stone. The bronze statue of Jefferson here has the following history, according to Ben. Perley Poore: "A spirited bronze statue of Jefiferson by his admirer, the French sculptor, David d 'Angers, was presented to Congress by Lieut. Uriah P. Levy, but Congress declined to accept it, and denied it a position in the Capitol. It was then reverently taken in charge by two naturalized citi- zens, stanch Democrats, and placed on a small pedestal in front of the white House. One of these worshipers of Jefferson was the public gar- dener, Jimmy Maher; the other was John Foy, keeper of the restaurant in the basement of the Capitol, and famous for his witty sayings." Gen. U. S. Grant (marble statue) by Franklin Simmons, the gift of the Grand Army to the United States. Washington (bronze bust) by David d'Angers; Lafayette (marble bust) by David d'Angers; Abraham Lincoln (marble head) bv Gutzon Borglum; Washington (plaster cast) by W. J. Hubbard. The eastern door of the rotunda opens upon the grand portico of the eastern front. The western door leads to the rear stairway descending a narrow hall to the rear entrance of the Ca])ilol and Pennsyl- vania Ave. ; also to a balcony which gi\-es an exceedingly interesting view toward the washin ton river, the Treasury, and northwestward. Rotunda of Capitoi Chas. Carroll Statuary Hall, Capitol Page 161 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 159 The northern door leads to the Supreme Court and onward to the Senate Chamber. The southern door admits to Statuary Hall and the House of Representatives. Passing through the southern door and a circular vestibule, we emerge into a semi-circular hall 95 feet in greatest width, whose ceiling is a half dome 60 feet high, beneath which is a spacious gallery filled with the Library of the House of Rep- resentatives. The cupola, which admits such poor light as the room now gets, was the work of a young Italian artist named Bonani, who died soon after, and who took his design from the Roman Pantheon. The arch is adorned with an eagle sculptured from life by Valperti, another Italian of high reputation, while a dignified model for a statue of Liberty, wrought in plaster by Causici in 1829, stands beneath the arch over the former position of the Speaker's desk. Franzoni Clock. Above the entrance door, remains the famous old marble clock. It is a notable object, and was executed in this city by C. Franzoni, an Itahan sculptor, who died May 12, 18 19, but the design is said to have been drawn by Latrobe. The theme is the Flight of Time. The Genius of History is represented as standing gracefully upon the winged chariot of Progress, which is rolling over a globe belted with the signs of the Zodiac. History records the incidents of national life as Time overtakes them, and the wheel of her swift chariot forms the dial of the clock, which is marked with gilded figures. The House of Representatives used this hall from 1808 until 1814, and then from 1817 to the end of 1857. "Here Clay, Webster, the younger Adams, Calhoun, Randolph, Cass, Burgcs, Wise, Forsyth, Corwin, Wright, and many others won reputation for statesmanship, and made the walls ring with their fiery eloquence. Here were many fierce and bitter wrangles over vexed questions — urbulcnt scenes, displays of sectional feeling; and here also was much legislative action which has gone into history as wise and beneficial." It was in this hall that ex-President John Quincy Adams, then a Representative for Massachusetts, was prostrated at his desk, on February 21, 1848, by paralysis, resulting in his death two days later. A star set in the floor marks the position of his desk. The present use of this room as a hall of memorial statuary is due to a suggestion from the late Senator Justin S. Morrill, when he was a Representative from Vermont, which resulted in an invitation by Congress, in 1864, to each State to send marble or bronze statues of two of her most illustrious sons for permanent preservation. 160 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE '^^PH ^Hf> ^^ • ^Jp f 1 .^ i *^ ''am '^^^^ fc^^ fet^^Ljf"^ 4 iln ^^^ 1 'jNvifv^ >®^ lii I^J^IBJ I^mhI "Washington at Yorktown" Legislative Hall of House of Representatives Page 165 As a beginning certain statues and busts owned by the Federal Government were collected here. They include Hubbard's plaster copy of Houdon's statue of Washington, the face of which was modeled froin a plaster cast taken by Houdon himself at Mount Vernon in 1785, and Mrs. Fisher Ames' bust of Lincoln, upon a pedestal of AlDcrdecn granite (a gift), for which $2,000 was paid. Here also will be found a marble bust of Senator J. J. Crittenden (1787- 1863) of Ken- tucky, author of the "Crittenden Compromise" measure and Harrison's Attorney-General, by Joel T. Hart; and a portrait of Joshua R. Giddings (i 795-1864), by Miss C. L. Ransom. Jean Antoine Houdon, who was a cultivated French sculptor (i 741-1828), educated in Paris and Rome, was cm])l()yed l)y the State of Virginia to make a statue of Wash- ingtt)n. He came and studied his subject, resided for several weeks witli the family at Mount Vernon, cast Washington's face, and then made in Italy the original statue, now in the capitol at Richmond. It is the most faithful portrait in existence of the Father of His Country in his later years. This plaster copy cost $2,000. Alabama: J. L. M. Curry, l)y Dante Sodini, 1906. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 161 Connecticut: Gov. Jonathan Trumbull (the original "Brother Jonathan") (1710-17S5) and Roger Sherman, one of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence (1721- 1793), both the work of C. B. Ives, and placed here in 1872. Florida: John Gorrie, inventor of mechanical refrigeration for medical purposes, afterward developed into commercial purposes, by C. A. Pillars, 19 14. Idaho: George L. Shoup, by F. E. Triebel, 1909. Illinois: James Shields (18 10-1879) (bronze), by L. W. Volk, 1893; Frances E. Willard (1839-1898), by Helen Farns- worth Mears, 1905. Indiana: Lew Wallace (1827-1905), by A. O'Connor, 1909; Oliver P. Morton (1823-1877), Governor of that State during the Civil War, by C. H. Niehaus, 1899. "Signing the Declaration of Independence in the Old Hall in Philadelphia" Rotunda of Capitol Page 155 Iowa: James Harlan (1820-1899) (bronze), by Miss NelHe V. Walker, 1909; S. J. Kirkwood, Governor of Iowa, United States Senator, Secretary of the Interior, by Vinnie Ream Hoxie, 1913. Kansas: John J. Ingalls (1833-1900), by C. H. Niehaus, 1904. Maine: Gov. William King (1768-1852), by Franklin W. Simmons, 1877. Maryland: Charles Carroll (173 7-1 83 2) (bronze), by R. E. Brooks, 1901; John Hanson (bronze), by R. E. Brooks, 1901. 162 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Massachusetts: Gov. John Winthrop (158 7-1 649), by Richard S. Greenough (a brother of Horatio Greenough), 1872; and Samuel Adams (1722-1803), by Anne Whitney, 1873. Michigan: Lewis Cass (i 782-1866), Senator and Secretary of the Interior, by Daniel Chester French, dated 1889; and Zachariah Chandler (1813-1879), by C. H. Niehaus, 19 13. Missouri: Sen. Frank P. Blair (182 1- 1876); and Sen. Thomas H. Benton (1782-1858), both by Alex. Doyle, 1899. New Hampshire: Gen. John Stark (1728-1822) ; DanieIWebster( 1 782-1852). Both by Carl Conrad, after the statues in Concord, N. H., 1894. New Jersey: Richard Stockton (173 o- 1781), one of the signers (in marble), 1876; and Gen. PhiHp Kearney (1815- 1862) (in bronze), 1875. Both are from models by H. K. Brown. New York: Vice President George ^ — «■ Clinton (1739-1812), by H. K. Brown ^ — %y and cast by Wood in Philadelphia in L — .__ F^ 1873; Chancellor Robert Livingston (i 747-1813) (in bronze), by E. D. Palmer, cast in Paris in 1874. Ohio: President James A. Garfield (1831-1881), 1885; and Senator and Governor William AUon (1806-1879). Both by Charles H. Niehaus. Pennsylvania: Robert Fulton (1765-18 15), who was born in this state but made his career elsewhere, by Howard Roberts, i8Si;and Gen. John P. G. Muhlenberg (1746-1807), by Helen Blanch Nevin, 1881. Rhode Island: Gen. Nathanael Greene (1742-1786), by H. K. Brown, dated 1869; and Roger Williams (1606-1683), by Franklin Simmons, 1870. South Carolina: John C. Calhoun (17S2-1850), by F. W. Ruckstuhl, 1909. Texas: Samuel Houston (i 793-1863), by Elizabeth Ney, 1904; Stephen F. Austin (i 793-1836), by EHzabcth Ney, 1904. Vermont: Col. Ethan Allen (i 737-1 789), a colossal marljle figure dated 1875, by Larkin G. Mead of that state; and Lincoln Rotunda of Capitol Page 158 RAND ^IcNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 163 Senator Jacob Collamer (1791-1865), Taylor's Postmaster General, by Preston Powers, 1879. Virginia: Washington, by Jean Antoine Houdon, 190S; R. E. Lee (1S07-1870), by Edward V. Valentine, 190S. West Virginia: Senator John E. Kenna, by Alexander Doyle, 1901; and F-^ancis H. Pierpont, by Franklin Simmons, 1903. Wisconsin: Father James Marquette, missionary-explorer (163 7-1 6 7 5), by Trentanove, 1895. "Surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown" Rotunda of Capitol Page 155 Statuary Hall has surprising acoustic properties, which the Capitol guides have learned, and apply to the amusement of sight-seers and their own profit. Curious echoes, whispers distinct at a distance, and ability to hear at a distance what is inaudible to one at the person's elbow, are among the curiosities of sound observable at certain points. One experi- ment easily tried is for two persons to place their faces close in the corners of the room beside the pillars of the arch; they may speak in a low tone and be heard distinctly, each by the other. The Capitol guides, it may be remarked, include some very well infonncd men, who can make themselves of great use to a stranger in this immense and storied building; and it is the only place in the city where a professional guide is of any use whatever. The Capitol guides are permitted to charge 50 cents an hour, but arc often cheerfully paid much more. 164 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE From Statuary Hall by the door under the arch, there is a corridor to the southern wing. The principal doors of the House confront you as you reach the lobby, each guarded, if Congress is in session, by doorkeepers, whose bus- iness it is to see that none enter who have not "the rights of the floor." The Hall of Representatives (occupied since December i6, 1857) is an oblong room 139 feet long by 93 wide and 36 high, the "floor" being 115 by 67 feet. The Speaker's raised desk is against the southern wall, and below him are the marble desks of the clerks and official reporters, the latter keeping a steno- graphic record of everything done or said, to be published in The Congressional Record next morning. The assistant doorkeeper sits at the Speaker's left, and the sergeant-at-aiTns within easy call. This latter officer is the Speaker's police- man- — the representative of the physical force which backs up the civil rule; and his symbol of authority is the mace, which reposes on a marble pedestal at the right of the Speaker. "The mace was adopted by the House in the First Congress, and has been in use ever since. When it is placed on its pedestal, it signifies that the House is in session and under the Speaker's authority; when it is placed on the floor, that the House is in committee of the whole. The mace is a bundle of black rods fast- ened with transverse bands of silver, like the Roman fasces. On its top is a silver globe surmounted by a silver eagle. When the sergeant- at-arms is executing the commands of the Speaker, he is required to bear aloft the mace in his hands." When a division of the House takes place, all come down the side aisles into the space in front of the clerk's desk and pass out up the central aisle between counting-tellers. Over the Speaker's head is the press gallery, and doors lead to the lobby and retiring-rooms in the rear. Beneath the galleries, in rear of the Representatives' desks, are "Cloakrooms" — small apartments where the members not only hang up their hats antl overcoats, but smoke and talk beyond the hubbub of the House. Alexander Hamilton Rotunda of Capitol Page 158 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 105 The galleries (reached from the next floor) are divided into sections, some of which are devoted to ladies and others reserved for diplomats, friends of Con- gressmen, etc. The doorkeepers will give anyone who asks for it a plan of the House showing where the Representatives are seated. Twelve hundred persons may be crowded into these galleries. At the right of the chair hangs a full- length portrait of Washington as presi- dent, by John Vanderlyn, ordered by Congress in 1S32, to signalize the hun- dredth anniversary of Washington's birth, and delivered in 1834, at the price of $2,500. On the left is Ary Scheffer's portrait of Lafayette, painted in 1822, and presented by Congress to that artist in 1824. The panel at the right of the "Washington" is taken by Bierstadt's painting of the "Settlement of California," while occupying the corresponding panel on the west, adjoining the "Lafayette," is the "Discovery of the Hudson," by the same artist, who was paid $10,000 for each. Adjoining the last named is a fresco by Brumidi, representing Washington treating with Corn- wallis for the surrender of his army at Yorktown — a gift to Congress from this painter. To the right (west) at the entrance, just beyond the corner is the Western Grand Staircase, leading to the attic story or gallery floor. At the foot is a bronze bust of a Chippewa Chief, Bee-She- kee or The Buffalo, modeled from life in 1855 by Vincenti. The opposite wall is largely covered by the fresco by Lcutze, representing western emigration under the title "Westward, Ho !' ' The action in the figures is the best part of the com- position, for which $20,000 was paid. Strips of wall beside the picture are highly decorated. That on the right contains a portrait of Daniel Boone, as a typical explorer, and the motto : "The spirit grows with its allotted spaces ; the mind is narrowed in a narrow sphere." That on the left has a portrait of Col. William Clark, to whose energetic action the United States mainly owes its early possession of the Ohio Valley, with a fam- iliar misquotation from Jonathan M. Scwcll, which should read : Jefferson Rotunda of Capitol Page 153 166 R A X D M c N A L L Y W A R H I X G T O X G U I D E Xo pent-up Utica contracts your powers, But the whole boundless continent is yours. Beneath Leutze's fresco is a similarly treated sketch by Bier- stadt, of the Golden Gate, or entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, California. The rooms beyond the staircase are offices of the clerks of the House, and the fourth (in the corner) is the Speaker's room. An elevator is near here. Turning down the corridor, across the southern end of the wing and in rear of the hall, the handsome retiring-rooms of the Representatives are passed; and at the end, opposite the basement stairs, is the House Lobby. This basement stairway is one of the four beautiful, bronze- railed private stairs leading down to committee-rooms, etc., on the floor below, which are found at opposite corners of the halls of both the Senate and the House. Their balustrades are exquisite works of art in metal, w^ere cast in Philadelphia after designs by Baudin, and cost something over $500 each. It is worth an effort to see them. Supreme Court Chamber, Capitol Page 176 RAND M c N A T. L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 167 The House Lobby is richly furnished, and contains many portraits — most of which are crayon-drawings — of the Speakers of the past. This and the adjoining apartments are not open to pubHc inspection after noon when Congress is in session. Passing another bronze-railed stairway and turning to the left, three committee rooms of great interest are passed on the eastern front of this wing. In the corner is that of the Com- mittee on Appropriations; next comes that of Ways and Means, which is richly frescoed; and in the farther (northeastern) corner is that of Military Affairs, hung with a notable collection of paintings of the principal forts of the United States, gathered by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman, U. S. A. From this corridor the Eastern Grand Staircase, similar to the western, ascends to the gallery floor. At its foot is Powers' statue of Thomas Jefferson, which cost $10,000. Over the landing hangs Francis B. Carpenter's painting of the "Signing of the Proclamation of Emancipation," by President Lincoln, in the presence of his Cabinet, September 22, 1862, presented to Congress in 1878 by Mrs. Elizabeth Thompson, who, it is said, paid $25,000 for the picture. Beginning at the left the portraits are: Edwin M. Stanton, Secretary of War; Salmon P. Chase, Secretary of the Treasury; Abraham Lincoln, President; Gideon Welles, Secretary of the Navy; W^illiam H. Seward (seated). Secretary of State; Caleb B. Smith, Secretary of the Interior; Montgomery Blair, Postmaster-General; Edward Bates, Attorney-General. Mr. Carpenter was for a considerable time an inmate of Lincoln's family at the White House, and has WTitten many interesting reminiscences of that time. Ascending to the attic floor we may again make the circuit of this wing through corridors whose inner doors open into galleries of the House. At the top of the staircase hangs a full-length portrait of Henry Clay, painted by Neagle in 1843 for the family, and regarded by Mr. Clay as the best portrait made of him. It is flanked on one side by a portrait of Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, the last survivor of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, painted by Chester Harding, a contemporary and rival of Gilbert Stuart, and on the other side by a portrait of Gunning Bedford, a member of the Continental Congress from Delaware, painted by Gilbert Stuart and presented by his family. The corridor to the left is in the rear of the House galleries, the distribution of which is indicated by labels over the doors. The most conspicuous compartment is that devoted to the press, which has a broad space over the Speaker's head and facing the House; it is fitted with desks, and governed by 168 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE stringent rules made by a committee of correspondents. More than half of the gallery, with seats for some 500 persons, is open to the public, which may come and go at will. Portions of this are nominally reserved for ladies, but gentlemen with them may also enter. A private room for ladies, with a woman attendant, will be found in the south front. Certain rooms on this floor are devoted to House committees and other ofificial purposes, and the second story of the corridor connecting this gallery with that of Statuary Hall is filled with the House's file of public documents, bound uniformly in sheepskin. The early records of Congress are very valuable. The only picture here is that of Chief Justice Marshall, which hangs opposite the head of the western staircase, and is an excellent full-length painted by R. N. Brooke in 1880. The basement of the House, to which an elevator makes a convenient descent, contains the House post office (southeast corner) ; committee and clerks' rooms, of which several are elaborately frescoed. A Public Restaurant (at the foot of the eastern stair- case); elaborate bathrooms for Representatives, and pul^lic lavatories for men (at the foot of the western stairway). The room of the Committee on Agriculture was decorated by Brumidi, as his introductory work, with what some critics have pronounced the best frescoes in the building. They repre- sent Cincinnatus called from his fields to be dictator, and Putnam going from his plow to be a general in the Continental amiy. There are also sketches contrasting harvests in ancient and modern times, and medallions of Washington and Jefferson. Figures of Flora (spring), Ceres (summer), Bacchus (auttimn), and Boreas (winter), accent the decoration of the ceiling. The committee on Indian Affairs has the benefit of wall paintings of Indian scenes executed by Lieutenant-Colonel Eastman, U. S. A. The sub-basement beneath this part of the building contains the elaborate machinery for heating and ventilating the Hall of Representatives and this wing generally. Fresh air is drawn in from a reirtote part of the grounds, and its temperature, degree of dryness, etc., arc regulated by ingenious machinery, which is open to inspection by visitors. A similar apparatus is in the Senate sub-basement for the service of the north wing. A basement corridor extends from end to end of the Capitol on this ground floor, and furnishes a convenient means of reaching the Senate wing without retracing one's steps. The white marble pillars will at once attract the eye. The con- noisseur will remark that thougn of Corinthian mold, their RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 1G9 Hall of the House of Representatives, Capitol Page 164 floriated capitals represent leaves of American plants. This was a pretty notion of Benjamin H. Latrobe, and a still finer example exists in the Senate vestibule. Half way down this corridor through the basement (which really is the ground floor, numerous doors opening directly upon the plaza and terrace), we come to the crypt, an apartment formed of the spaces between the 40 Doric columns that support the massive brick arches upon which is laid the floor of the rotunda ; a star in the pavement marks the center of the building immediately beneath the dome. A passage to the left leads out to the western entrance and upstairs into the rotunda; and another leads to the basement doors under the grand portico of the eastern front. Continuing onward, past the old Supreme Court Chamber in which all the great cases were heard previous to 1857, the basement of the Senate wing is reached. Here there is a A Public Restaurant, public lavatories for both men and women, and many offices and committee-rooms. All the corridors and vestibules at this end are well lighted, and the walls and ceilings are very profusely and elaborately decorated with mural designs in the Italian manner, daintily drawn and brightly colored. Among them are many portraits of early 170 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE American men of note, in medallions, and a long series of charming drawings in colors of North American birds, vSmall mammals, and flowers. The vestibule of the Senate post office, in the northwest corner, is particularly picturesque, having over the post-office door a large painting of Fulton, pointing, as if from a balcony, to his first steamboat, the Claremont, passing the Palisades of the Hudson. The door of the Committee on Post Office Affairs is suitably indicated by a sprightly picture of Franklin, who organized the American Post Office; while over the opposite door is a likeness of Fitch, Fulton's competitor in developing the idea of steam navigation. Other specially fine frescoes are to be seen in the rooms of the Senate committees on Indian Affairs, Naval Affairs, Military Affairs (where Revolutionary battles are pictured in glorious colors), and Foreign Affairs; the doors of the latter and of the Committee on Patents are further distinguished by frescoes by Brumidi above the lintels — in the fomicr case, "The Signing of the 'Treaty of Ghent, " and in the latter a full-length picture of Robert Fulton. The rendering over and over in painting and carving of the same subjects and faces is one of the peculiarities of the unsystematic and ununiform embellishment of the Capitol. The room of the Senate Committee on Public Lands contains the painting, "The Recall of Columbus," by Aug. G. Heaton, which used to hang in the corridor of the Senate galleries. A stairway or an elevator at either the eastern or western end of the main corridor will take one u]) to the main story of the Senate wing. Here, as in the southern wing, corridors extend completely around the Senate Chamber, which occupies the center of this wing. 7 he Senate Chamber is 113 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 36 feet high, including the galleries, which extend all arotmd and will accommodate 1,000 persons. The space tmdcr the galleries on the east, west, and south sides is partitioned into cloak rooms for the Senators, while on the north side is the Senate lobby. Each desk bears a silver plate with the occupant's name. A Senator keeps a desk only during a single Congress, drawing lots at the beginning of the next for a choice of seats — the Repub- licans sitting at the left and the Democrats at the right of the presiding officer. Some desks are old and historic, being the same at which Senators distinguished in the early history of the Rej)ublic sat or delivered their forensic thunders. The President of the Senate is the Vice-president of the United States. He sits upon a platform within an arched niche RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 171 and behind a broad desk. His chair is high-backed and a magnificent piece of carved mahogany, a gift to Vice-president Hobart. At his right is the Sergeant-at- Arms, and at his left the Assistant Doorkeeper. In front of him, a step lower down, is the desk of the Senate clerks, and in front of that, on the floor of the arena, the tables of the official reporters. The press gallery is behind the Pres- ident, and facing him are ^ Y^ ~V the galleries reserved for the |A« Diplomatic Corps and for H| Senators' families. The i^ . ^.^^.«,.^^ | end galleries are open to the public, the eastern one being set apart for women, who will find a convenient par- lor and retiring room, with a woman attendant, at its northern extremity. A plan of the Senators' seats may be obtained from the doorkeepers. Busts of all the Vice-presidents are being placed in niches in the walls, of which the following is a roster, with the names of sculptors: John Adams (Daniel C. French), Thomas Jefferson (M. Ezekiel), Aaron Burr (Jacques Jouvenal), George Clinton (V. A. Ciani), J. C. Breckinridge (J. P. Voorhees), Schuyler Colfax (Miss Frances M. Goodwin), Millard Fillmore (Robert Gushing), Wm. R. King (Wm. C. McCauslen), Andrew Johnson (Wm .C. McCauslen), Elbridge Gerry (Herbert Adams), Daniel D. Tompkins (C. H. Niehaus), Martin Van Buren (U. S. J. Dun- bar), George M. Dallas (H. J. Ellicott), Hannibal HamHn (FrankHn Simmons), W. A. Wheeler (E. L. Potter), Chester A. Arthur (Aug. St. Gaudens), Thomas A. Hendricks (U. S. J. Dunbar), J. C. Calhoun (Thco. A. Mills), Richard M. Johnson (J. P. Voorhees), and John Tyler (Wm. C. McCauslen). Outside the Senate Chamber many interesting things are to be seen on the main floor. To the right from the main or rotunda entrance to the wing (and to the floor of the chamber) , on the end wall is a famous portrait (head) of Washington by Lobby House of Representatives Page 167 172 RAND McNALLY WAvSHINGTON GUIDE Gilbert Stuart, which was bought by Congress in 1876, for $1,200. Opposite it is a bright portrait of John Adams, copied by Andrews from Gilbert Stuart. Passing through the door between these portraits, and turning to the left, you come to the magnificent eastern staircase of Tennessee marble, illumi- nated by a rich skylight of stained glass. At its foot stands Powers' marble statue of Benjamin Franklin, which cost $10,000. The wall of the stair landing bears Powell's striking painting (an enlarged copy, for which $25,000 was paid by contract in 1873, of an earlier picture, 1S63, made by Powell for the State of Ohio), of Com. OHver P. Perry at the battle of Lake Erie, in 18 10, transferring himself and his flag from his sinking flagship "Lawrence" to the "Niagara" in which he won a signal victory. Just beyond the staircase is a noble vestibule, with coupled columns, having Corinthian capitals, designed by Latrobe, though usually credited to Jefferson, composed of a most graceful arrangement of Indian corn and tobacco leaves in place of the conventional acanthus. They are of white marble, but the walls are of scagHola. A bust of President John Tyler is the only ornament. This vestibule (where there is an elevator) opens upon the eastern portico through the Senate bronze doors designed by Thomas Crawford, cast by J. T. Ames at Chicopee, Mass., and set up here in 1868. These doors are equally as interesting, and the workmanship is as fine as is that of the Rogers doors. The upper panel of each valve (one of which represents War and the other Peace, as typified in the figures in the foot-panel of each half) contains a star surrounded by oak leaves, and acts as a ventilator. There are six panels, constituting the body of the door, in which are represented, in alto-rcIie\'o, events connected with the Revolution, the foundation of our Government, and the erection of the Capitol, chronologically as follows: The battles of Bunker Hill, Monmouth, and Yorktown; the welcome of Washington in Trenton on his way to New York in 1789 (the same panel contains portraits of the sculptor, his wife, three children, and of Rogers, the sculptor of the main door) ; the inauguration of Washington in 1789, and the laying of the corner-stone of the Ca])itol, September 18, 1793. The promi- nent figures are all likenesses. In the inauguration scene John Adams stands on Washington's right; Chancellor Livingston administers the oath, and Mr. Otis holds the Bible. The remaining figures are Alexander Hamilton, Generals Knox and St. Clair, Roger Sherman, and Baron Steuben. The frame over the door is supported by enriched brackets. The RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 173 President's Room, Senate Page 174 ornamentation is scroll- work and acanthus, with the cotton boll, stalks and ears of corn, grapes and entwining vines. Above the door are two sculptured figures in American marble representing Justice and History by Crawford, whose price was $3 ,000. It will be remembered, also, that Crawford designed the fig- ures that fill the pediment of this portico. This bronze door was his latest work; he was paid $6,000 for the designs, and William H, Rinehart was given $8,940 for the plaster model, while the casting (14,000 pounds) cost $50,500. Returning into the vestibule, and through the first door at the right, one may see Brumidi's excellent frescoes (History, Geography, Physics, and Telegraph) in the room of the Senate Committee on the District of Columbia. This vestibule opens at its inner end on the right into the Senate reception room. The walls are covered with rococo designs in stucco, in high relief, and heavily gilded. The vaulted ceiling has also many gilded stucco ornaments, and certain panels are embellished with allegorical frescoes by Brumidi entitled "Liberty," "Plenty," "Peace," "War," "Prudence," "Justice," "Temperance," and "Strength"; while an excel- lently drawn and brilliantly colored mural painting, under the arch of the south wall, depicts Washington in conference with Jefferson and Hamilton — one of the best things in the Capitol. This room opens outwardly into the office of the sergeant- at-arms, where a very large ceiling painting is visible, and westwardly it opens into the lobby. In the Senate lobby, entering from the public reception room, as noted above, the first door at the right opens into the Vice-President's Room, where Henry Wilson died, November 22, 1875, and whose bust by Daniel C. French remains here as a memento. The next door admits to the Marble Room. Here the "grave and reverend" Senators hold consultations at ease, or receive their more privileged guests. Luxurious chairs, 174 RAND M c N A L L Y W A S H I X G T O X GUIDE soft sofas, warm nigs, and lace curtains abound, and the room is dazzling at night when all the lights are aglow. The self-registering thermometers, barometers, wind indi- cators, etc., to be seen here, furnish a branch station of the United States Weather Service ; and the officer in charge records upon the glass face of a map in a most interesting way the phases of the weather all over the country. The House enjoys a similar sub-station. Next west of this splendid room is the President' s room, another ornate apartment where it has been the custom since Andrew Johnson's time (except in Cleveland's case) for Presidents to sit during the last day of a Congressional session, in order to be ready to sign bills requiring an immediate signature. This room is brilliantly decorated, including medallion portraits of President Washington and prominent members of his first Cabinet — Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State; Kenry Knox, Secretary of War; Alexander Hamilton, Secretary of the Treasury; Echnund Randolph, Attorney- General, and Samuel Osgood, Postmaster-General. The four corner-frescoes overhead represent Columljus (Discovery), Vespucius (Exploration), Franklin (History), and William Brewster (Religion). Between these are symbolic figures of Liberty, Legislation, Religion, and Executive Power. All this work is by the versatile Brumidi, and in his best vein. This lobby and the three rooms last named are not visible during sessions of Congress, except by the courtesy of some Senator. The visitor may pass on at once to the Western Grand Staircase of white American marble and ascend to the gallery floor. Dr. Horatio Stone's statue of John Hancock stands at the foot of this staircase. It was sculptured in 1861, and bought for $5,500. On the wall of the landing is the large painting, by Walker, of the "Storming of Chapulleijcc" (captured by Scott's army on September 13, 1847, during the Mexican War), for which $6,000 was paid. At the head of the stairway hangs a full-length portrait of Washington, l.>y Charles Wilson Pcalc, painted in 1779, the first sittings for which were gi\-en at Valley Forge. This west corridor admits one to the gentlemen's, and to one of the reserved, galleries of the Senate, and to nimierous committee-rooms. Beyond the stairway in the south corridor are two of the most interesting rooms in the building, a hall looking out upon the plaza, and another, adjoining, having a delightftil prospect northward. These rooms not only contain fine tiling and mural decorations, but some notable paintings. In the fonncr are a ]3ortrait of John C. Calhoun, and Aloran's RAND ]McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 175 Franzoni's Clock Statuary Hall, The Capitol Page 159 celebrated pictures of the canons of the Colorado and of the Yellow- stone, which were painted from actual studies, and sold to the Government for $10,000 each. This room opens into the gallery for Senators' families, the first and sec- ond seats of which are reserved for the President and Vice-President, and their friends. The adjoining hall (from which opens a ladies' retiring-room, with a woman attendant) has the painting representing the encounter between the Monitor and Merrimac by Halsall, and purchased in 1877 for $15,000, the only exception to the rule that no reminder of the Civil War shall be placed in the Capitol, an exception due to the fact that this was in reality a drawn battle, where the courage of the contestants was con- spicuously equal, and where the naval methods of the world were revolutionized. Its historical interest is therefore, world wide. Here also are portraits of Lincoln and Garfield, in Italian mosaic, the gift of Signor Antonio Salviati of Venice, Italy; a portrait of Charles Sumner, by W. Ingalls, dated 1870; and one of General John A. Dix, by Imogene Robinson Morrell, dated 1883. It was John A. Dix, afterward a Major-General, Senator, and Governor of New York, who, when Secretary of the Treasury in 1861, sent to one of his special agents in Loui- siana the famous order containing the words: "If any one attempts to haul down the American flag shoot him on the spot," which so thrilled patriotic hearts. Here also are busts of Kosciuszko, the Polish patriot, by H. D. Saunders; of Count Pulaski, Polish soldier of the Revolution, by H. D. Mochowski; of Thomas Crawford, the sculptor, by Gogliardi, and a marble head of Bee-Shee-Kee, a Chippewa Indian A small special elevator makes this room directly accessible from the basement; and descending by it, or by the eastern grand stairway, to the main floor, one walks to the main corridor, where, upon the wall at the western end, hang beautiful portraits of Thomas Jefferson, a copy from an original by Thomas Sully, and of Patrick Henry, a copy by Matthews, from an original by Sully, an eminent painter of portraits and historical pictures, who died in Boston in 1872, 17G RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE The Supreme Court Chamber is reached by the main passageway leading from the Senate to the rotunda. Visitors are admitted upon all proper occasions. To sit at the rear of this old hall when the court is in session, as happens five days in the week, during the great part of the year, is an impressive experience. Senate Office Building Delaware Ave. and C Street, N. E. Page 149 On the dais stands the long "bench" of the most august court in the land. At the right of the "bench" is the clerk of the court, at the left the Marshall; and the tables of the Attorney-General, official reporters, stenographers, and counsel legally admitted to practice here, occupy the semicircular carpeted "bar" fonnerly covered by the desks of Senators. In the rear are public seats. The busts of past Chief Justices are as follows : At the left of the clock (as you face the Court) , (i) John Jay (1789 to 1795); (2) Ohvcr Ellsworth (1796 to 1799); (3) Roger B. Taney (1835 to 1864); (4) Morrisson R. Waite (1874 to 1888). On the right of the clock: (i) John Rutledge (an Associate Justice nominated in 1795, but never confimied) ; (2) John Marshall (iSor to 1835); (3) Salmon P. Chase (1865 to 1873); (4) Melville W. Fuller (1888 to 1910). The Justices, who, upon court days, enter in procession precisely at noon, wearing the voluminous black silk gowns which alone remain in the United States of the traditional costume of the English judiciary, sit in a prescribed order of seniority. In the center is the Chief Justice ; upon his right hand is the Associate Justice longest in service, and beyond him the second, third, and fourth; and then, upon the left of the Chief Justice, the fifth, RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 177 sixth, seventh, and eighth, or youngest in rank of appointment. The robing-room, where the Justices meet informally and don their robes, is west of the corridor, and is adorned with some notable portraits of the Chief Justices of the past. The portrait of John Jay, by Gilbert Stuart, represents him arrayed in a black satin robe with broad scarlet facings. It was a gift to the court by his grandson, John Jay, late Minister to Austria. That of Taney, by Healy was presented by the Washington Bar Association. The portrait of Chief Justice Marshall is by Rembrandt Peale, and was presented to Chief Justice Chase by the Bar of New York, and at his death was bequeathed by him to the Supreme Court. The western front of the Capitol is directly reached by leaving the rotunda through the western door and passing downstairs beneath the apartment formerly occupied by the Library of Congress, thence out upon a terrace. The terrace is a broad esplanade, separated from the basement of the building by a kind of moat, which permits hght and air to enter the lowest story, and adds largely to the solidity and architectural grandeur of the Capitol when viewed from below. Underneath this ter- race are a series of casemate-like apartments, which were put to a novel use during the early days of the Civil War, when this part of the building had just been put into form. The Capitol in war time was a citadel. Its halls and committee- rooms were used as barracks for the soldiers, who barricaded the outer doors with barrels of cement be- tween the pillars; its basement galleries were converted into store- rooms for army provisions; and the vaults under this terrace were con- verted into bakeries, where 16,000 loaves of bread were baked every day for many months. The "bakeries" are now clerks' offices ' — ■ ; ■ and congressional committee-rooms. Broad flights of stairs, parting right and left about a fountain, lead down to a lower terrace, in the center J- - . - . . , .. „ Rochambeau of which IS the bronze Slttmg fig- g ^ Comer Lafayette Square ure of Chief Justice John Marshall, Page 73 -x^->" 178 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE From this statue, broad walks descend to Pennsylvania Ave. and the Naval Monument on the right and to Maryland Ave. and the Garfield Monument on the left. EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENTS The Executive Departments over which the Cabinet officers preside, and in which the daily administration of the Govern- ment is carried on, are recognized under the law of i8S6 in the order of succession to the Presidency, as follows: Department of State — the Secretary of State. Department of Treasury — the Secretary of the Treasury. Department of War — the Secretary of War. Department of Justice — the Attorney-General. Post Office Department — the Postmaster-General. Department of Navy — the Secretary of the Navy. Department of the Interior — the Secretary of the Interior. Department of Agriculture — the Secretary of Agriculture. Department of Commerce — the Secretary of Commerce. Department of Labor — the Secretary of Labor. Year by year, with the growth of intelligence, and the extension of the civil service idea and practice, "politics" has less and less to do with the practical administration of the business of the nation at its capital; and year by year, better and more economical methods and results are achieved. Departments of State, War and Navy 17th Street and Pennsylvania Ave. R A N D M c N A L L Y W A vS H I N G T O N GUIDE 179 Department of State occupies the south front of the State, War, and Navy Building 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. This building is 471 ft. long by 253 ft. wide. The building was begun in 187 1 and not wholly finished until 1893, covers four and a half acres, contains two miles of corridors, and cost $10,700,- 000. It is in charge of a superintendent, responsible to a com- mission composed of the three Secretaries occupying it. The Secretary and Assistant Secretaries occupy a line of handsome offices in the second story, among which is the long and stately room assigned to conferences with representatives of foreign governments, or similar meetings, and hence called the Diplomatic Room. An opportunity to inspect this should be accepted, if only to obtain a sight of the likenesses of the past Secretaries of State, with which its walls are almost covered. That of Clay, by E. D. Marchant, and those of Fish and Freling- huysen, by Huntington, are especially praised. Lord Ashburton is here also, beside Webster — his great coadjutor in the adjudica- tion of the boundary between the United States and Canada. The Show Rocm of the Department is the Library. A precise facsimile of the Declaration, made about 1820, hangs upon the library wall. Here may be seen the war sword of Washington — the identical weapon he was accustomed to wear in camp and campaign; and the sword of Jackson, at New Orleans — broken, to be sure, but mended by a skillful armorer, and not by himself at a blacksmith's forge, as the old story relates. Jefferson's writing desk (at which, tradition says, the Declaration of Independence was drafted), Franklin's staff and buttons from his court dress, a lorgnette given by Washington to Lafayette, a copy of the Pekin Gazette, which has been printed continuously, as a daily newspaper, since the eighth century, and several other personal relics and historical curiosities will reward the visitor. The library itself is a very notable one, equal to those of the governments of Great Britain and France in importance as a collection of books of international law and diplomacy. Cognate works, such as biographies, histories, and travels of a certain sort, supplement this central collection, and the whole now includes some 60,000 volumes. Its purpose is to serve as a reference hbrary for the department. It also includes a great quantity of the papers of public men of the past, which have been acquired by purchase or otherwise, and are distinct from the correspondence archives of the department. For the papers of Washington (bound into 336 volumes) $45,000 was paid in 1834 and 1849; for the Madison papers (75 vols., 1848) $25,000; for Jefferson MSS. (137 vols., 1848) $20,000; ISO RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE and for the Monroe paper (22 vols., 1849) $20,000. More recently have been acquired the papers of Hamilton (65 vols.), of Benjamin Franklin (32 vols.,) $35,000, and extensive records of the Revolutionary Army. Secretary of State is charged, under the direction of the President, with duties appertaining to correspondence with the public ministers and the consuls of the United States, and with the representatives of foreign powers accredited to the United States, and to negotiations of whatever character relating to the foreign affairs of the United States. He is also the medium of correspondence between the President and the chief executives of the several states of the United States; he has the custody of the Great Seal of the United States, and countersigns and affixes such seal to all executive proclamations, to various commissions, and to warrants for the extradition of fugitives from justice. He is regarded as the first in rank among the members of the Cabinet. He is also the custodian of the treaties made with foreign states, and of the laws of the United States. He grants and issues passports, and exequaturs to foreign consuls in the United States are issued through his office. He publishes the laws and resolutions of Congress, amendments to the Constitution and proclamations declaring the admission of new states into the Union. Pension Office Judiciary Square, F and 4th Streets Page 195 Department of War, i/lh St. and Pennsylvania Ave., occupies the western portion of the northern part of the State, War, and Navy Building. The Secretary and Assistant Secre- tary of War, the General of the Anny, and several military bureaus, have their offices there, but none of them is open, of course, to the casual visitor. At the head of the staircase, RAND M cNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 181 near the northwestern corner, are models of certain arms and ordnance, and of wagons, ambulances, etc., and also two showcases of life-size lay figures exhibiting the uniforms of various ranks in the Revolutionary Arm^^ The wall of the staircase is embellished with portraits of past secretaries, and in the corridor and ante-rooms of the Secretary's office are other paintings, including portraits of Grant, Shennan, and Sheridan, by Daniel C. Huntington. The Washington portrait here is one of Stuart's copies from his original study. The old Winder building, on the opposite side of 17th St., erected man}^ years ago by Gen. Wm. H. Winder, an aniiy officer who distinguished himself in the early part of the War of 1 8 1 2 , and commanded the troops here in 18 14, was intended for a hotel. It was taken for offices of the War Department, how- ever, and has been so occupied ever since. In it General Halleck had his office and the staff headquarters of the army during the Civil War, Secretary Stanton's office being in the building demolished to make rooin for the present structure. General Grant's headquarters, when, after the war, he lived in Washington in command of the amiy, were in the large house with the high stoop on the opposite or southeast corner of 17th and F Sts. It is now a private residence. McClellan's headquarters, during the early half of the war, were at the northeast comer of Lafayette Sq., now the Cosmos clubhouse. Secretary of War performs such duties as are required of him by law or may be enjoined upon him by the President concerning the military service. He is charged by law with the supervision of all estimates of appropriations for the expenses of the department, including the military establishment; of all purchases of army supplies; of all expenditures for the support, transportation, and mainte- nance of the Army, and of such expenditures of a civil nature as may be placed by Congress under his direction. He also has supervision of the United States Military Academy at West Point and of military education in the Anny, of the Board of Ordnance and Fortification, of the various battlefield com- missions, and of the publication of the Official Records of the War of the Rebellion. He has charge of all matters relating to national defense and seacoast fortifications, Army Ordnance, river and harbor improvements, the prevention of obstruction to navigation, and the establishment of harbor lines; and all plans and loca- tions of bridges authorized by Congress to be constructed over the navigable waters of the United States, require his ai)proval. He also has charge of the establishment or abandonment of 182 RAND McNALLY WASHIxNGTON GUIDE military posts, and of all matters relating to leases, revocable licenses, and all other privileges upon lands under the control of the War Department. General Staff Corps was organized under the provisions of act of Congress, approved February 14, 1903. Its principal duties are to prepare plans for the national defense and for Patent Office 6th, 9th, F and G Streets Page 1S5 the mobilization of the military forces in time of war; to inves- tigate and report upon all questions affecting the efficiency of the Anny and its state of preparation for military operations; to render professional aid and assistance to the Secretary of War and to general officers and other superior commanders, and to act as their agents in informing and coordinating the action of all the different officers who are subject to the su])cr\'ision of the Chief of Staff and to perform such other military duties not otherwise assigned by law as may be from time to time prescribed by the President. Chief of Staff, under direction of the President, or of the Secretary of War, under the direction of the President, has svipervision of all trooi)s of the line, of the Adjutant General's Deimrtment in matters pertaining to the command, discipline, or administration of the existing military establishment, and of the Inspector General's, Judge Advocate General's, Medical and Ordnance Departments, the Quartemiaster Corps, the Corps of Engineers, and the Signal Corps, and perfonns such other military dvities not otherwise assigned by law as may be assigned to him by the President. For purposes of adminis- tration, the office of the Chief of Staff constitutes a supervising RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 183 military bureau of the War Department. Duties formerly prescribed by statute for the Commanding General of the Amiy as a member of the Board of Ordnance and Fortification and of the Board of Commissioners of the Soldiers' Home are per- fomied by the Chief of Staff or some other officer designated by the President. The Army Medical Museum, 7th & B Sts., S. W. Exhibits illustrating not only all the means and methods of military surgery, but all the diseases and casualties of war, making a gruesome array of preserved flesh and bones, affected by wounds or disease; or wax or plaster models of the effects of wounds or disease, which the average visitor could contemplate only with horror and dismay. This museum, nevertheless, is of the greatest interest and value to the medical and surgical profession, and comprises some 25,000 specimens. In the anatomical section there is a very large collection of human crania, and about 1,500 skeletons of American mammals. In the miscellaneous sections are the latest appliances for the treatment of diseases, all sorts of surgical instruinents, and models of ambulances, hospitals, etc. The library is the most complete collection of medical and surgical literature in the world, surpassing that of the British Museum. Department of Navy, 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave., has possession of the remaining third of the building, with an entrance facing the White House, signified by anchors upon the portico. The Secretary and Assistant Secretary preside over ten bureaus, whose chiefs are detailed officers of the Navy. These are: I. Bureau of Navigation, having the practical control of the ships and men in actual service, and including the Hydro- graphic Office and Naval Academy at Annapolis, but not the War College at Newport. 2. Bureau of Yards and Docks. 3. Bureau of Equipment, which has charge, among other things, of the Naval Observatory, the Nautical Almanac, and the Compass Office. 4. Bureau of Ordnance. 5. Bureau of Construction and Repair. 6. Bureau of Steam Engi- neering. 7. Bureau of Medicine and Surgery, under whose supervision is maintained a Museum of Hygiene, in the old Naval Observatory, which is interesting to specialists. 8. Bureau of Supplies and Accounts (the Navy Pay Office is at No. 1729 New York Ave.). 9. Office of the Judge Advo- cate General — the department's law officer. 10. Office of the Commandant of the Marine Corps, who is responsible directly to the Secretary of the Navy. By the time a ship is 184 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Land Office Building 7th Street Page 195 built, equipped, anned, and manned, she has gone through every one of these bureaus. The models of ships, on view in the corridor near the entrance and on the next floor above, fonn an exhibit of great interest, graphically displaying the difference between the early wooden frigates and linc-of-battle ships and the modern steel cruisers and turreted men-of-war. These models ought not to be over- looked. The library, also, is well worth attention, on account of the portraits of departed Secretaries, as well as for the sake of its professional books. Secretary of the Navy performs such duties as the President of the United States, who is commander-in-chief, may assign him, and has the general superintendence of construction, manning, armament, equipment, and employment of vessels. The Navy Yard usually offers little to reward the visitor's curiosity outside of the gunshop, musevun and trophies. It stands on the bank of the broad tidal estuary of the Anacos- tia River, at the foot of 8th St., S. E., and is the terminus of the cars from Georgetown along Penns3d\'ania A\'c. The Anacostia line of street cars along AI St., S. E., also passes the gate. This navy yard was established in 1804 and was an object of destruction by the British, who claim, however, that it was set on fire by the Americans. It was restored and "f(.)r more RAND McI^ALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 185 than half a century many of the largest and finest ships of war possessed by the United States were constructed in this yard." Two spacious ship houses remain, but the yard is now almost entirely given up to the manufacture of naval guns and ammu- nition and the storage of equipments. The first great building on the right, The Gun Shop, at the foot of the stone stairs, is the most interesting place in the yard. It is filled with the most power- ful and approved machinery for turning, boring, rifling, jacket- ing, and otherwise finishing ready for work the immense rifles required for modern battleships, as well as the smaller rapid-fire guns forming the supplementary batteries of the cruisers and other vessels of war. The office of the commandant of the yard is at the foot of the main walk near the wharf, and there application should be made for permission to go anywhere not open to the public. A large number of guns, showing types used in the past, are lying near the office, and a series of very interesting cannon captured from the Tripolitan, British, Mexican and Con- federate enemies whom the navy has had to fight, are mounted before the office. Among them is the famous 4 2 -pounder Long Tom, cast in 1786 in France, captured from the frigate Noche by the British in 1798, and then sold to us. Later it was struck by a shot, condemned, and sold to Haiti, then at war with France. This over, the cannon had various owners until 1 8 14, when it formed the main reliance in the battery of privateer General Armstrong, which, by pluckily fighting three British war-ships off Fayal, in the Azores, so crippled them that the squadron was unable to reach New Orleans, whither it was bound, in time to help the land forces there against the victorious Jackson. The brig was afterward sunk to prevent her capture by the British, but the Portuguese authorities had so greatly admired the little ship's action that they saved this gun as a troohy. and sent it as a present to the United States. The Museum near the gate is worth visiting, as it contains many pieces of old-fashioned ordnance and ammunition, and many relics of historical or legendary interest, of which the most popular, perhaps, is the stern-post of the original Kear- sarge, still containing a shell received during her fight with the Alabama. The door of the museum is vshadcd by a willow grown from a twig cut above the grave of Napoleon at St. Helena. The Marine Barracks, three squares above the Navy Yard, on 8th St., S. E., occupy a square surrounded by brick 188 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE buildings painted yellow, according to naval custom, and are the home station and headquarters of the Marine Corps; but, except that here is the residence of the famous Marine Band, they contain nothing of interest to the visitor, unless to watch guard -mounting every morning at 9, or the formal inspection on Mondays at 10 a. m. The Marine Band is the onlymiHtary band always stationed at Washington, and available for all military ceremonials. These advantages have given it great excellence; and its music at parades. President's receptions, inaugural balls, etc., is highly appreciated. This band gives outdoor concerts in summer. Naval Observatory, North of Georgetown. This is the astronomical station of the Government under control of the Navy and presided over by an officer of high rank, whose first object is the gathering and disseminating of infomiation of use to mariners, such as precision of knowledge of latitude and longitude, variation of the compass, accuracy of chro- nometers and other instrurncnts used in the navigation of ships of war, and similar infomiation more or less allied to astronomy. Purely scientific astronomical work is also carried on, and the equipment of telescopes and other instruments is complete, enabling the staff of learned men — naval and civilian — attached to the institution to accomplish notable results in the advancement of that department of knowledge. Superintendent of the State, War, and Navy Department Building is the executive officer of the commission created b_\- Congress, consisting of the Secretaries of State, War, and Navy, for the government of this building. He has charge of, care, preservation, repairing, warming, ventilating, Hghting, and cleaning of the building, grounds and a])proaches, and dis- burses the special appro])riations for this purpose; he has charge of all the employes of the building proper, and appoints them b>' direction of the Secretaries. Department of the Treasury, 1 5th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. The financial de])artmcnt and the actual treasury of the Government are housed in the imposing but somewhat gloomy building which closes the vista up Pennsyl\-ania Ave. from the Capitol, and which nearly adjoins the White House park on the east. This structure is of the Ionic-Greek order of archi- tecture modified to suit local requirements. The main building, with its long pillared front on 15th St., was completed in 1841. Some years later, the building was greatly enlarged, the mag- nificent granite porticos at each end added. The whole build- ing, completed in 1S69, is 466 ft. long, and 264 ft. wide exclusi\"e RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 187 Department of Treasury 15th Street and Pennsylvania Ave. of the porticos, incloses two courts, and has cost about $10,000,- 000. The act of July 4, 1S36, provided that the President cause a site to be selected. It was the purpczc of those in charge to locate the building in such a position as to admit of an miinterrupted view along Pennsylvania Ave. from the Capitol to the White House. As the story goes, however, President Jackson, becoming impatient at the delay in the selection of the site, walked over the ground one morning, and planting his cane in the northeast corner, said: "Here, right here, I want the corner stone laid." Robert Mills, the archi- tect, before a committee of Congress in 1838, stated that "the precise position of the building has been determined by the positive directions of the late President." The Treasury is a place every stranger visits. The building is open from 9 till 2 ; and between 1 1 and 12 and i and 2 o'clock, persons who assemble at the office of the Treasurer are formed into parties, and conducted to the doors of certain rooms, where the guides volubly explain the work in progress there. Thus may be seen the girls counting and recounting the sheets of specially made paper upon which all of the United States bonds, notes, and revenue stamps are printed. This is the beginning of the long routine of "money making," and not one must be unaccounted for. This paper is made of components and by a composition which is a secret between the Go^^ernment and the manufacturers at Dalton, near Pitts- field, Mass. It is especially distinguished by the silk fibers 188 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE U. S. Government Printing Office N. Capitol and G Streets Page 199 interwoven with its texture, and the possession of any sueh paper by priv- ate persons is prohibited under severe penalties, as prima facie evid- ence of intent to defraud. The packages of i ,000 sheets, each of the proper size for ])rinting four notes, are deftly counted and carefully ex- amined by young women, whom long practice has made wonderfully expert. When every imperfect sheet has been picked out and replaced by a good one, the packages are sent to the printer (see Bureau of Engraving and Printing). Next you may be shown the large room to which piles of similar sheets, printed with the faces and backs of notes of various denominations from $1 to $1,000, have been returned, to receive here, upon small steam presses, the red seal which completes the value of the paper as a promise to pay. These notes, to the amount of about $1,000,000 in value, on the average, are brought over from the Bureau of Engraving and Printing each morning, being conveyed in a steel-encased wagon, guarded by armed messengers. They are first counted by three persons in succession, to reduce to the vanishing point the probability of error, and then are sent to the sealing-room mentioned above, where the sheets of four unsej^aratcd notes are passed through the small steam presses that place upon them the red seal of the Treasury of North America, or, as it is written in abbreviated Latin upon the seal itself: Thesaur. Amer. Scptent. Sigil. United States Treasury notes bear the engraved facsimiles of the United States Treasurer and the Register of the Treasury ; but national bank notes are actually signed in ink by the president and cashier of the bank issuing them. The latter arc sent to the banks and receive these signatures before receiv- ing the red seal, for which ])urpose they must be returned here, the banks defraying the express charges. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 189 It is in the room adjoining this that the visitor may see that marvelous development of the human hand and eye which enables the ladies intrusted with the final counting of Uncle Sam's paper money to do so with a rapidity that is absolutely bewildering to the beholder. As soon as the seals have been printed upon a package of i,ooo sheets of notes, these are taken to another little machine, which slices them apart, replacing the hand shears, to whose use, in General Spinner's day, according to tradition, is due the introduction of female assistance in the departmental service. This produces 4,000 notes which are tied up into a standard "Package", and laid upon the table of the first clerk to whom they go for final inspection and counting. Untying a package and holding it in her left hand, with the face of the notes upward, she lifts the right-hand end of every one of the 4,000 notes, scans it for imperfections in texture, printing, sealing, or cutting, sees that it is numbered in due order, and that nothing is missing. That all this can be done, and done day after day and month after month, with unwearied vigilance, discernment, and accuracy, is sufficiently extraordinary — since habitual application to routine work is likely to breed not only care- lessness, but a sort of mental blindness; but when to this is added a speed so extraordinary that a counter passes on the average 32,000 notes each working-day, the performance becomes one of the most wonderful in the range of human industry. It would seem that the eye could scarcely fonn an image in the brain of any single note as it flies through the fingers, yet so trained and sensitive have these women become, that the slightest irregularity of form or color is noted, and each imperfect note is rejected, destroyed, and replaced by a perfect one from a reserve supply. The rapid counting, is facilitated — only made possible, in truth — by the fact that the notes, as they fall from the cutting machine, lie in exact rotation of numbers (in the upper right- hand corner) , so that the counter need only take cognizance of the final unit, sure that as long as these run continuously there is no mistake. Having observed, for example, that the package began 87, 654, 320, that the units were repeated continuously in order, i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1,2,3, 4> ^tc, and the package ended 87, 658, 320, the counter could be sure it was full and regular. To guard against any possible mistake, however, these packages go through the hands of five successive counters before the last of the fifty-two countings to which the sheets and notes are subjected is concluded, and the notes are ready for issue. Each person to whom the packages are temporarily 190 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE Department of Agriculture The Mall between 12th and 14th Streets Page 196 intrusted is obliged to receipt for them, so that their history may be traced from the paper mills to the cashier's desk. Each package, as it comes from the last counter, con- tains 4, GOO notes; but as these may vary from $i to $i,ooo in denomination, the value may be $4,000, $8,000, $20,000, $40,000, $80,000, $400,000 or $4,000,000. Each package is now wrapped in brown paper, sealed with wax impressed with the Treasury seal, and placed in the currency reserve vault of the cashier of the department of issue; and the amount receij^ted for by the keeper of the vault (averaging $1,000,000 a day) must cor- respond each evening exactly with the amount received the same morning from the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. These pretty notes, the representatives of the hard cash stored in the vaults, reach the public only through the Cash Room, a large apartment on the main floor, walled with a great variety of exquisite native and foreign marbles, and provided with a public gallery, whence all its operations may be overlooked; but visitors ought to keep very quiet. Here tightly bound packages of notes of a single denomination, each containing 4,000 bills, are prepared for shipment to the sub- treasuries and other financial agents of the Government, or, with the loose cash needed, are paid out over the counter. The business is that of an ordinary bank, or, rather, of an extraordinary one, for checks of enonrious value are frequently cashed here — one reaching as high as $10,000,000. When the various legal-tender notes (greenbacks, silver certificates, treasury notes, or gold certificates) are sent in for rcdemj^tion, they go into the redemption division, where they are counted and sorted into packages — again by the quick fingers of women. These packages are then irrctrie\al)ly mutilated by punches, sliced lengthwise, and each half is counted separately by other clerks. If all proves to be right (an error is quickly traceable), a receipt is given, enabling the cashier to give back new notes in exchange for the old ones, or reissue to the i^ublic in coin, an amount equal to what has been jDresentcd that day for redemption. Sometimes the mere fragments, or soaked or charred remains, of bank notes arc sent in, but if the evidence of good faith satisfies the chief, and the RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 191 amount can be verified, crisp, new notes arc sent to the owner in return. This opens a door for fraud, which rascals have tried to enter, but they have rarely succeeded. In the office of the present United States Treasurer, alongside his little receipt to his predecessor for $750,000,000, or thereabouts, the amount taken into custody by him, may be seen, framed, what purports to be a $500 bill, made up of sixteen pieces cut from various parts of sixteen other genuine $500 bills which had been sent in and redeemed as "mutilated." These reserved fragments, combined, made a seventeenth bill, which perhaps might have been accepted also, had it been less clumsily fabricated. Finally, the old bills, punched and cut in two (see above), are sent to carefully guarded maceraters — one in the Treasury Building for the destruction of the old national bank notes, and another for the destruction of United States notes, at the Bureau of Engraving and Printing; there they are ground into wet pulp. The maceraters are globe-shaped receptacles of steel, having the capacity of a ton of pulp, the top of which opens by a lid secured by three different Yale locks. The Secretary of the Treasury has the key of one lock, the Treasurer that of another, and the Comptroller of the Treasury the third. Each day at i p.m., these officials or their representatives, with a fourth agent to represent the people and banks, open the macerater, and place within it the million dollars or so of condemned currency or other securities which are to be destroyed, together with a suitable quantity of water. The lid is then locked in the three places, and machinery begins to whirl around inside of the macerater a series of 150 knives which grind and cut the soaking material until the notes are reduced to shreds and useless pulp. Once in four or five days the committee unlocks the valve and lets the accumulated pulp run out into screening receptacles. It is thence taken to the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, where it is rolled and dried into thin sheets and sold. Samples of it, now and then, are disposed of to be made into the queer little figures sold as curiosities and "supposed to contain a $100,000 or so." Life-Saving Service. On one of the upper floors the Life- Saving Service has a series of models and specimens of the apparatus used in saving the lives of shipwrecked marines, which can usually be seen. In the office of the Supervising Architect, are many "highly executed drawings of elevations and plans of the public buildings erected by the United States, interesting to architects and civil engineers." The Department 192 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Municipal Building Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th Street Page 13 library has 20,000 volumes, and is open to visitors; and lastly, a proper introduction will enable the visitor who is curious in criminal matters to inspect the rogues' gallery and police museum of the Secret-Service, which deals with counterfeiters, smugglers, and "moonshiners" (illicit distillers). Secretary of the Treasury is charged by law with the management of the national finances. He prepares plans for the improvement of the revenue and for the support of the public credit; superintends the collection of the revenue, and directs the forms of keeping and rendering public accounts and of making returns; grants warrants for all moneys drawn from the Treasury in pursuance of appropriations made by law, and for the payment of moneys into the Treasury ; and annually submits to Congress estimates of the probable revenues and disbursements of the Government. He also controls the construction and maintenance of public buildings; the coinage and printing of money; the administration of the Life-Saving, Revenue-Cutter, and the Public Health branches of the public service, and furnishes generally such information as may be required by either branch of Congress on all matters pertaining to the foregoing. The Treasurer of the United States, 15th & Pennsylvania Ave., is charged with the recci])t and disbursement of all public moneys that may be deposited in the Treasury at Washington, and in the sub- treasuries and in the national bank depositories. Bureau of Engraving and Printing, 14th & B Sts., S. W. This building, 505^^ x 295^2 ft., contains what is considered one of the finest manufacturing plants in the world. The cost of the site and the building was $2,86g,ooo. Here are designed, engraved, ])rinted and finished all of the securities and other similar work of the Government, embracing United States notes, bonds, and certificates, national bank notes, internal- revenue postage and custom stamps, Treasury drafts and RAND M c N A L L'Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 193 checks, disbursing officers' checks, hcenses, commissions, patent and pension certificates, portraits authorized by law of deceased members of Congress and other pubhc officers. Department of Justice, 1435 K St. Attorney-General is the head of the Department of Justice, and the chief law officer of the Government. He represents the United States in matters involving legal questions; he gives his advice and opinion, when they are required by the President or by the heads of the other executive departments, on questions of law arising in the administration of their respective departments; he appears in the Supreme Court of the United States, in cases of especial gravity and importance; he exercises a general superintendence and direction over United States attorneys and marshalls in all judicial districts in the States and Terri- tories; and he provides special counsel for the United States whenever required by any department of the Government Post Office Department, Pennsylvania Ave., between nth and 12th Sts. The General Post Office began in a postal system organized in the American Colonies as early as 1692 by patent to Thomas Neale. This expired in 17 10, when the English postal system was extended to the colo- nies, and it slowly grew until, in 1753, Benjamin Franklin was appointed Deputy Postmaster-General for the Colonies. The Revolution overthrew the royal mail, but when peace came the Continental Congress established a new system, and put Franklin again in charge of the first United States mails. Postage stamps were not adopted by the Government until 1847. In the Court within the building hangs one of the largest flags in the United States, the size of which is 62 >^ ft. long by 36 ft. wide. This immense flag is unfurled each day with appropriate ceremonies. Six or seven million pieces of lost mail are returned to the Post Office annually, and examined. If any clew to the writer, or owner, or addressee can be found, the letter or package is at once sent to one or the other of these persons. Newspapers are destroyed. Unidentified packages containing any article of value are recorded and laid aside for six months, at the expiration of which time they are sold at auction, and the money received is turned into the treasury. Postmaster General is the executive head of the Federal Postal Service. He appoints all officers and employees of the Post Office Department except the four Assistant Postmasters General and the Purchasing Agent, who are presidential appointees. With the exception of postmasters of the first, 194 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 11 ■y'4, 1 II r all 1 i 1 « Be ' 1 1 ' 'Hall of Americas" Pan-American Union Building 17th and B Streets Page 200 second, and third classes, who are likewise presidential ap- pointees, he appoints all postmasters and all other officers and employees of the service at large. Subject to the approval of the President, he makes postal treaties with foreign Go\'crn- ments. He awards and executes contracts and directs the management of the Foreign Mail Service. He is the executive head of the Postal Sa\-ings System and ex officio chairman of the board of trustees of that system. First Assistant Postmaster-General has charge of Post- masters' appointments, salaries and allowances, and city delivery. Second Assistant Postmaster-General has charge of Rail- way adjustments, miscellaneous transportation, foreign mails, railway mail service. Third Assistant Postmaster-General has charge of Finance, stamps, money orders, registered mails, classification, postal savings. Fourth Assistant Postmaster-Ge)ieral has charge of rural mails, supplies, dead letters. There are in the Postmaster's department 1,473 employes and in the Auditor's department 575. Open to visitors 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 195 Department of the Interior, 7th & F Sts., popularly known as the Patent Office manages internal or domestic affairs — the relations of our own people with the Government. The Patent Office has issued thus far about 900,000 patents, and its earnings have been far in excess of the cost of buildings and all expenses since its origin. Pension Bureau — G St. between 4th and 5th Sts. The structure is said to be fireproof- — a statement which caused General Sheridan to exclaim, "What a pity! " The ornamental frieze around the exterior of the building portrays a proces- sion of spirited marching figures of soldiers of the late war — horse, foot, and dragoons. This is the only artistic thing about the building, and is worthy of a better setting. The floor of the court is well filled with cases of drawers containing the papers of applicants for pensions, or an increase, so tidily arranged that the file of each man can be referred to without delay. It is very helpful, however, to know the registry number of the case, which is borne by every paper pertaining to it. The cases on file exceed a million; about 1,000,000 beneficiaries are carried on the rolls, and the outlay of the bureau is now about $145,000,000 a year. Over 1,800 persons, one-sixth of whom are women, are employed here. The building cost $902,569.48. Secretary of the Interior is charged with the supervision of public business relating to patents for inventions, pensions and bounty lands and survey's, the Indians, education, the Geological Survey, Reclamation Service, the Bureau of Mines, national parks, distribution of appropriations for agricultural and mechanical colleges in the States and territories, and the supervision of certain hos- pitals and eleemosynary institutions in the District of Columbia. He also ex- ercises certain powers and duties in relation to the territories of the United States. General Land Office, old Post Office Bldg., 7 th St. Building and land cost $2,231,881.59. Geological Survey, I-.^tO Patio, Pan-American Union Building P Oo. ^' 00 17th and B Streets ^ ^^- Page 200 196 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Bureau of Education, old Post Office Bldg., 7th St. Reclamation Service, N. E. corner 8th & F Sts. Bureau of Mines, 710 E St. Office Indian Affiairs, Pension Bldg. Department of Agriculture. The Mall between 12th and 14th Sts. The building cost $2,500,000. The scope of the work is now very extended, including the study of diseases of live stock, and the control of the inspec- tion of import and export animals, cattle transportation, and meat; also the enforcement of the pure food and drug laws, a bureau of statistics of crops, live stock, etc., at home and abroad; scientific investigations in forestry, botany, fruit culture, cultivation of textile plants, and diseases of trees, grains, vegetables, and plants; studies of the injuries or beneficial relations to agriculture of insects, birds, and wild quadrupeds; investigations as to roads and methods of irriga- tion; chemical and microscopical laboratories, and a great number of experiment stations, correspondents, and observers in various parts of this and other countries. The results of all these investigations and experiments are liberally published. There is a museum in a separate building in the rear of the main one, exhibiting excellent wax models of fruits, nuts and natural foods of various kinds; and an especially full and interesting display of models showing the damage wrought by many kinds of insects injurious to trees and plants, also an attractive and instructive exhibit, comi^rising a number of groups of mounted birds, ground squirrels, gophers and other mammals, in natural surroundings, each representing a chapter in the life history of the animal and showing its relation to agriculture. The library and herbarium will interest botanists. The extensive greenhouses are o])en at all reasonable hours, and the palmhouse is a particularly delightful place on a stormy winter's day. A tower in the garden, composed of slabs with their foot-thick bark from one of the giant trees (sequoia) of California, should not be neglected, for it rep- resents the exact size (if the huge tree, "General Noble," from which the pieces were cut. Weather Bureau. M. c^- 24lh Sis. There may l)e seen the delicate instruments by which the changes of meteorological conditions are recorded, and the method of forecasting the weather for the ensuing forty-eight hours, which is based upon RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 197 "North America," Pan-American Union Building 17th and B Streets Page 200 reports of local conditions telegraphed each night and morning from the observers in all parts of North America, whereupon orders to display appropriate signals are telegraphed to each office. In addition to the forecasting of stonns, etc., the bureau has in hand the gauging and reporting of rivers; the maintenance and operation of sea coast telegraph lines, and the collection and transmission of marine intelligence for the benefit of commerce and navigation; the reporting of temperature and rainfall conditions for the cotton interests, and a large amount of scientific study in respect to meteorology. Secretary of Agriculture is charged with the work of promoting agriculture in its broadest sense. He exercises gen- eral supervision and control over the aft'airs of the department and fonnulates and establishes the general policies to be ptirsued by its various branches and offices. Department of Labor. Willard Bldg., 513 14th St. Children s Bureau, Willard Bldg., 513 14th St. Bureau of Immigration, Willard Bldg., 513 14th St. Bureau of Naturalization, Willard Bldg., 513 14th St. Bureau of Labor Statistics, 19th St. & Pennsylvania Ave. Secretary oj Labor is charged with the duty of fostering, promoting, and developing the welfare of the wage earners of the United States, improving their working conditions and advancing their opportunities for profitable employment. He has power under the law to act as mediator and to appoint commissioners ._ , r .,.,. ... ^. 1 "Soutii America, of conciliation m labor disputes when- ^ . ^ Pan-American Union DUiIding ever m his judgment the interests 01 i7th and b streets industrial peace may require it to be Page 200 198 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE done. He has authority to direct the collecting and collat- ing of full and complete statistics of the conditions of labor and the products and distribution of the products of the same and to call upon other departments of the Government for statistical data and results obtained by them and to collate, arrange, and publish such statistical in- fomiation so obtained in such a manner as to him may seem wise. His duties also comprise the gathering and publication of information regarding labor interests and labor controversies in this and other countries; the supervision of the adminis- tration of the act of Congress providing for the payment of compensation to artisans or laborers of the United States injured in the course of their employment; the supervision of the immigration of aliens, and the enforcement of the laws relating thereto, and to the exclusion of Chinese; the direction of the administration of the naturalization laws; the direction of the work of investigating all matters pertaining to the welfare of children and child Hfe and to cause to be published such results of these investigations as he may deem wise and appropriate. Department of Commerce, 19th St. & Pennsylvania Ave. Bureau of Census, 19th St. & Pennsylvania Ave. Bureau of Fisheries, 6th & B Sts., S. W., Aquaria and a pool for seals and fishes. The duty of the Department of Commerce is to foster, promote and develop the foreign and domestic commerce, the mining, manufacturing, shipping and fishing industries, and the transportation facilities of the United States. The investigation of the management of corporations (except railroads) engaged in interstate commerce. The administration of the Lighthouse Service, including the establishment and maintenance of aids to navigation. The taking of census. The making of Coast and Geodetic surveys. The collection and publication of statistics on foreign and domestic commerce, and the investi- gation of markets for American products. The insj^cction of steamboats and the enforcement of laws pertaining tliereto for the protection of life and pro]^crt3^ The pro])ogation and distribution of useful food fishes and the supervising of Alaskan fur-seal and salmon fisheries. Jurisdiction over merchant- vessels, including their registry, measurement, licensing, entry, clearance, etc., and the enforcement of the act requiring wire- less equijMnent on vessels. The standardization of weights and measures. The fomiulation of regulations (in conjunction with the Secretaries of the Treasury and Agriculture) of the enforcement of the food and drugs act and the insecticide act. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 199 Pan-American Union Building 17th and B Streets Page 200 Coast and Geod- etic Survey, a scien- tific branch of the Treasury Depart- ment to map the coast, chart the waters, and investi- gate and publish movements of tides, currents, etc., for the benefit of navi- gation, is domiciled in a brick building on New Jersey Ave., south of the Capitol, immedi- ately in the rear of the great stone house built long ago by Benjamin F. Butler as a residence, and which is now principally occupied by the Marine Hospital Service. New Jersey Ave. leads in that direction to Garfield Park, and beyond that to the shore of the Anacostia, near the Navy Yard. Just west of it Delaware Ave. forms a perfectly straight street to Washington Barracks. United States Fish Commission. Occupies the old ante- bellum arsenal 6th & B Sts., S. W., Armory Sq. Here, on the basement floor, can be seen various aquaria filled with growing plants and inhabited by fishes, rare and common, and by quaint and pretty swimming and creeping things that dwell in the rivers and sea. The apparatus involved in various forms of fish-hatching can be examined, and perhaps the process may be watched in a series of tanks which is often so employed. If it should happen that one of the railway cars, in which young fish are carried about the country for planting in inland waters, is standing in the yard, it would be worth the trouble to look at its arrangements. The upper floor of this building is devoted to the offices of the Fish Commissioner and his assistants Secretary of Commerce. Duties are largely of supervisory nature, but embrace also some matters not properly coming directly under one of the several bureaus of the Department. Government Printing Office. N. Capitol & G Sts. This office is separate and distinct from the Bureau of Engraving and Printing — the latter being a division of the Department 200 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Christian Science Church Columbia Rd. and Euclid Ave. Page 202 of the Treasury. The offi- cer in charge is known as the Public Printer. The management covers the purchases, printing, wrap- ping and maihng pubh ca- tions for pubHc distribution. Interstate Commerce Commission. 13 17 F St. Has jurisdiction, upon com- plaint or in a proceeding instituted upon its own initiative, and after full hearing, to determine and prescribe reasonable rates, regulations and practices; to award reparation to injured ship- pers, and to require carriers to cease and desist from unjust discrimination, or undue or unreasonable preferences. Pan-American Union. 17th & B Sts. The buildings and grounds represent an expenditure of $1,000,000. The building, costing $750,000, generously given by Andrew Carnegie, has been described by the greatest living French architect as combining, for its cost, beauty of architecture and practical usefulness more than any other public building in the world. It represents a blending of the classical and the Spanish Renaissance in architecture, having as its central feature a typical Spanish patio or courtyard and an imposing salon, known as the " Hall of the Americas." In the rear of the building is its famous Aztec sun- ken garden contain- ing a tri])le arched loggia finished in tiling brought from the ancient cities of Mexico and Peru. The l)uil(ling is the home of The Pan ^^'J^^^l'l^^r"!" A TT • 16th and H Streets American Union, Page 203 RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 201 Church of the Covenant 18th and N Streets Page 203 the international organization maintained by the twenty-one American rcpubhcs for the pur- pose of developing friendly intercourse, com- merce and peace among them. The affairs are administered by a Director General and an Assistant Director and assisted by a large staff of international experts, statisticians, trans- lators, compilers, editors, and librarians. As a great international bureau of infonnation for the Western Hemisphere, it publishes an illustrated monthly Bulletin describ- ing the progress of the American republics; special reports, hand- books, maps and sketches of each country; handbooks of trade, travel, and description. Its library, con- tains over 30,000 volumes relating to the American republics. The building can be inspected each week day, excepting Saturday, from 9.30 a.m. until 4 p.m. Its chief execu- tive officer, known as The Director- General, is John Barrett, formerly United States Minister to Siam, Argentina, Panama and Colombia. PROMINENT CHURCHES Christ Church (Protest- ant Episcopal), on G St., S. E., between 6th & 7th Sts., is the oldest church in the city. It was erected in 1795 and was attended by Presidents Jefferson and Madison. Ser- vices are still held there. Christ Church Cemetery, more popularly known as the Congressional Burial Ground, adjoins the grounds of the workhouse on the south, and occupies a spacious tract on the bank of the Anacostia. Among the notable men buried here are: Vice- Hebrew Congregation 8th between H and I Streets Page 203 202 RANTD McNALLY WA SKfNGTON GUIDE President George Clinton of New York; Signer and Vice- President Elbridge Gerry of Massachusetts, whose name gave us the verb "to gerrymander"; William West, born in Bladensburg, in 1772, a distinguished essayist and jurist, and finally Attorney General under Monroe; Alexander Macomb, hero of Plattsburg and General of the army preceding Scott, who has a fine military monument; his predecessor, Gen. Jacob Brown, resting under a broken column; Tobias Lear, Washing- ton's private secretary; A. D. Bache, the organizer of the coast survey, and several distinguished officers of the old army and navy. The nearest street cars are on F. St., S. E. St. John's Church (Episcopal). One of the oldest in the city; built in 1814 — northwest corner H & 16th Sts., Locally referred to as the "Church of State" — having a pew reserved for the President of the United States and his family. Madison, Monroe, John Quincy Adams, Jackson, Van Buren, Harrison, Tyler, Fillmore, Buchanan and Arthur attended here; and, occasionally Presidents Roosevelt and Taft. Rock Creek Church and its beautiful cemetery, northeast of the Soldiers' Home and separated from it by the fine Rock Creek Church Road, are worth a visit. This is the oldest house of worship in the District of Columbia, or near it, and was erected in 1719, by the planters of the neighborhood, of bricks imported from England as ballast in empty tobacco ships. Foundry Church, 16th & Church Sts. Baptist Disciples of Christ galv/7' Sth & H Sts. Vermont Ave. Christian, Vermont First, 16th & O bts. . -nt t-^ Immanuel, 1501 Columbia Rd. ^ve-' "«^^ ^ ht. Maryland Ave., Maryland Ave., Nmth St. Christian, 9tli St. cor. D near 14th St., N. E. St., N. E. Catholic Holy Trinity, ;56th & O Sts. Episcopal St. Aloysius N Capitx)! & I Sts ^^j^^ Cathedral of Church of St. St. Dormnic s, 6th, bet. E. & F Sts, p^,^^^. .^^^^j p^^j^ ^,j ^ g^_ ^j,^^^^ St. Matthew's, Khodc Island Ave., (Washington Cathedral) near Connecticut Ave. Church of the Ascension, 12th St., St. Patrick's, 10th, near F St. cor. Massachusetts Ave. St. Paul's, 15th & V Sts. Church of the Epiphany, C, near Christian Science 13th St. FirstChurchof Christ, cor. Colum- st. Alban's Wisconsin Ave, cor. ])ia Rd. ct Euchd St. Mas.sachusetts Ave. Second ('hurch of Christ, Union o. t i • ^,•ll e ir oi Bldg., {} l>ct. 6th & 7th Sts. St. John s, l(,th A: 11 Sts. Congregational St. John's ((^.eoigotown) First lOlh iV (1 Sts. St. Paul's Rock Creek, Rock Creek Mt. Plea.sant, Cohmihia Rd., near Churcli Rd., near Soldiers' 14th St. nomc. RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE 203 St. vStephen's, 14th St., bet. Columbia Rd. & Irving St. St. Thomas, i8th St., near Dupont . Circle. Friends Friends' Meeting House, 181 1 I St. Hebrew Above Sholem, 5th, cor. I St. Washington Hebrew Congregation, 8th, bet. H & I Sts. Lutheran Concordia, 20th, cor. G St. Evangelical Lutheran Church of the Epiphany, i6th St. & N. H Ave. Luther Place Memorial, 14th & N St. Methodist Episcopal Dumbarton Ave., 3131 Dumbarton Ave. Foundry, S. W. cor. i6th & Church Sts. Hamline, 9th & P Sts. McKendree, Massachusetts Ave., bet. 9th & loth Sts. Metropolitan Memorial, John Mar- shall PI. & C St. Methodist Episcopal, South Marvin, loth & B Sts., S. W. Mt. Vernon Place, 9th & K Sts. Methodist Protestant Rhode Island Ave., ist St., cor. Rhode Island Ave. Presbyterian Church of the Covenant, i8th, cor. N St. Fourth, 13th, cor. Fairmont St. Gun ton Temple Memorial, 14th, cor. R St. Gurley Memorial, Florida Ave., bet. 6th & 7th Sts. New York Ave., New York Ave., bet. 13th & 14th Sts. Unitarian All Souls, 14th & L Sts. Universalist Church of Our Father, 13th & L Sts. Colored Baptist Florida Ave., near 7th St. MetropoHtan, R bet. 12th & 13th Sts. Nineteenth St., 19th cor. I St. Vermont Ave., Vermont Ave., bet. Q & R Sts. Walker Memorial, 13th, bet. U & VSts. Zion, F, bet. 3d & 43^^ Sts., S. W Zion, Deanwood, D. C. Catholic St. Augustine's, 15th, near M St. St. Cyprian's, 13th & C Sts., S. E. Episcopal Calvary Chapel, nth St., cor. G St., N. E. St. Luke's, 15th, cor. Church St. St. Mary's Chapel, 23d, bet. G & H Sts. Methodist Episcopal Asbury, K, cor. nth St. Ebenezer, D, cor. 4th St., S. E. Galbraith, 6th, bet. L & M St. Metropohtan A. M. E., M St., near 15th St. Metropolitan A. M. E. Zion, 211 D St., S. W. Mt. Zion, 29th St., bet. Dumbarton Ave. & O St. Presbyterian Fifteenth St., 15th St., bet. I & K Sts. ENVIRONS Note: Reference to Alexandria and vicinity under heading Mt. Vernon. Falls Church, Virginia. In this quaint town six miles from Washington is one of the oldest churches in the state. It was built in 1773 for £600. The contract was taken by James Wrenn, who was to be paid either in currency or its equivalent — 32,000 lbs. of tobacco. 204 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE It was furnished after the old style, with box pews, a high, wine-glass pulpit, and tablets on either side the channel with the decalogue and the Lord's prayer in large letters. The floor was laid with tiles, undoubtedly imported. The church fell into disuse before the close of the last century, and was in an abandoned state for a number of years, the roof having fallen in and cattle finding shelter within its walls. Afterward it was repaired by Mr. Henry Fairfax, a grandson of the Rev. Bryan Fairfax, at his own expense and thoroughly restored. It was long in charge of the Rev. R. Templeman Brown as rector, and was in a flourishing condition at the breaking out of the war, when it was taken possession of by the United States troops, first as a hospital and subsequently as a stable; the pews, pulpit, tablets, floor, and even a part of the walls being destroyed. After the war it was repaired, cheaply, and has been used since as a place of worship. Its communion service, the gift of friends, is of solid silver, mostly from plate and from the sale of watches, jewelry, etc. given for the purpose. Its churchyard has numerous graves, and some ancient tombstones are still to be seen. Here took place many skirmishes during the prolonged civil strife and it was the camping ground of both armies. Situated in an elevated valley, this romantic spot was selected, directly after the Civil War, as the homes of »enterprising Western and New England citizens who were attracted to it by its beauties and many natural advantages. According to the last census, the nominal inhabitants of the town are 1,007 but the number is nearly doubled during the summer months by the influx of Washington city people. It is easily accessible by two railroads — the Washington-Virginia passing through the eastern boundary, and the Washington & Old Dominion passing from the east to the west end of the village. Fairfax Court House, the county seat of Fairfax County, is only eight miles distant from Falls Church, Va. Washington's original will, in his own hand\\Titing, is deposited with the county clerk, who is the official custodian. He also has in his possession many other old and valuable documents. Bull Run (Manasses) Battlefield is a short distance west and easily accessible l;)y driving over a beautiful undulating country. Munson's Hill, the ]jlace where MeCk-llan reviewed his magnificent anny, is a little over a mile south of Falls Church. Camp Alger is located near Falls Cliurch, the site being RAND M c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 205 selected by Secretary Alger on account of its known hcalth- fulness and abundance of pure water. Bladensburg is a quiet Maryland village, some seven miles northeast of Washington on the Baltimore & Ohio Rail- road. It is a port on the Anacostia, to which large boats for- merly ascended with goods and went back laden with farm produce. Through it ran the stage road from the north; and here, August 24, 18 14, the feeble American army met the British, under Ross and Cockburn, who had marched over from their landing-place on the Patuxent River, intent upon the capture of the Yankee capital. The Americans, partly by blundering and partly by panic (except some sailors under Commodore Barney) ran away after the first attack, and left the way open for the redcoats to take and bum the town as they pleased ; but they inflicted a remarkably heavy loss upon the invaders. " It is a favorite drive with Washingtonians today," remarks Mr. Todd, in his "Story of Washington," over the smooth Bladensburg pike to the quaint old village. Dipping into the ravine where Barney made his stand, you have on the right the famous Duelling Ground. The more notable affairs staged here were as follows : In 1S08 Barnet Gardner of New York and George W. Campbell of Tennessee, both members of Congress. The former was dangerously wounded. Ensign Edward Hopkins was killed May 26, 18 14. February 6, 1819: Col. John J. McCarty of Virginia killed Gen'l Armistead T. Mason, a United States Senator from the same state. March 20, 1820: Commodore Stephen Decatur was mortally wounded by Commodore James Barron. Decatur died the next day. In 1 82 1 Mr. Fox of Washington was killed by a Treasury clerk named Randall. Congressmen Bynum of North Carolina and Jenifer of Maryland fought here in 1836. February 24, 1838, Congressmen Jonathan Cilley of New Hampshire was mortally wounded by William J. Gaves of Kentucky. A mile farther on, you come out upon the banks of the Eastern branch, here an inconsiderable mill stream, easily forded, though spanned by a bridge some thirty yards in length. Bladensburg is on the opposite shore very little changed since the battle-day. 206 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Georgetown and Vicinity. Georgetown, now West Washington, was a flourishing village and seaport before there was a thought of placing the capital here; and in hos- pitable houses the early officials found pleasanter homes than the embryo Federal city then afforded. Its narrow, well- shaded, hilly streets are yet quaint with reminders of those days, and it has residents who still consider their circle of families the only persons "true blue." Before the era of railroads Georgetown had distinct importance, due to the fact that it was the tidewater terminus of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, which was finished up the river as far as the Great Falls in 1784, and in 1828 was carried through to Cumberland, Maryland, at a cost of $13,000,000. The residential section of Georgetown is reached by way of P St. over a steel bridge spanning Rock Creek near 2 2d St. over which run the cars of the Georgetown line. Pennsylvania Ave. forms the highway toward Georgetown, but stops at Rock Creek. The cars turn off to K St., cross the deep ravine over a bridge, borne upon the arched water- mains, and then run east to the end of the street at the Aqueduct Bridge. Here a three-story Union railway station has been built. Into its lowest level come the cars of the Pennsylvania Ave. line. At the roof level of this station is the junction of the F St. line and Great Falls line, running to Glen Echo and Cabin John Bridge. This famous structure was commenced in the early 50's. The plans were supervised by Jefferson Davis, then Secretary of War, but the bridge was not completed until President Lincoln's time. At the outbreak of the Civil War, Jefferson Davis' name was obliterated from the bridge and was not restored until President Roosevelt's second tenn. It derives its name from a hermit known only by the name of John, who built a log cabin a short distance north of the site of the bridge and who made his living by fishing. 'The natives called him Cabin John and, when the bridge was built, named it Cabin John's Bridge. It was built as an aqueduct for the water sup]:)ly of Washington. Anacostia is a name applied in an indefinite way to the region opposite the Navy Yard, and is reached by a bridge at the foot of i ith St., crossed by the street cars of the Anacostia Potomac line. The village at the farther end of the bridge, now called Anacostia, was fonnerly Uniontown, and from it branch-roads lead up on the Maryland heights in various directions, where electric railroads and park villages are ra]3idly extending. Twining, at the eastern end of the Pennsylvania Ave. Bridge; Lincoln Heights, in the extreme eastern corner of RAND ^I c N A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 207 the district; Garfield and Good Hope, on the fine Marlboro Turnpike, which is a favorite run for cyclers; and Congress Heights, farther South, are the principal of these suburban centers. All of these high ridges were crowned and connected by fortifications, some of which remain in fairly good condition, especially Fort Stanton, just south of Garfield. A wide and interesting view of the city and the Potomac Valley is obtained from its ramparts, and also of the great Federal Insane Asylum. Chevy Chase is a charming suburb, just beyond the District line, at the extremity of Connecticut Ave. extended, which is cut straight across the broken and picturesque region west of Rock Creek. The forested gorge of this romantic stream east of the avenue, and embracing most of the region between it and the proposed extension of i6th St., has been acquired and reserved by the Government as a public park; the land has been well improved and the park is traversed by many drives and numerous artistic cement bridges. Chevy Chase consists of a group of handsome country villas, among which an old mansion has been converted into a "country-club," with tennis courts, golf links, etc., attached, and here the young people of the fashionable set meet for outdoor amusements in which fox-hunting with hounds, after the British fashion, is prominent. The ride out to the end of this road, at the District limits, is a very pleasant one all the way; and if one is fond of walking, he can do well by going on through the suburban villages of Potworth and Brightwood to Silver Springs and Takoma Park, the latter a station on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad almost at the extreme northern corner of the District. Here is located the BHss Electrical School, the first and for many years the only school teaching electrical engineering exclusively. Its students come from all over the world. It is then a very pleasant walk back to the Soldiers' Home, along the Blair and Rock Creek Church roads, which are bordered by luxuriant hedges of osage orange. Near Brightwood, in plain view off at the left as you go out upon the cars, are the crumbling parapets of Fort Stevens, which was one of the agencies in protecting the city against Confederate attack in 1864, when fighting occurred all through these woods and fields. Early's Raid, in July 1864, was the only serious war scare Washington had, but it was enough. Panic-stricken _ people from the Maryland villages came flocking in along this road, bringing such of their household goods as they could carry. 208 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE For two or three days the city was cut off from communication with the outside world, except by way of the Potomac River. The district militia was reinforced by every able-bodied man who could be swept up. Department clerks were mustered into companies and sent to the trenches, with any odds and ends of fighting material that could be gathered. There was an immense commotion, but the capital was never so demoral- ized as was alleged of it at the time. Within forty-eight hours, from one source and another, 60,000 men had been gathered. Meanwhile, the stubborn resistance made some miles up the river, by Gen. Lew Wallace, whose wide reputa- tion as the author of "Ben Hur," "The Fair God," etc., was still to come, who delayed the invading host against frightful odds until the fortifications were well manned, had saved the city from being sacked and the President from capture. It is not too much to say that Wallace's prompt and courageous action did this thing. Wallace was forced back, of course, but when Early got him out of the way and reached the defenses north of the city, he found the old Sixth Corps there, and, contenting himself with a brisk skimiish in the fields in front of Fort Stevens, he fled, carrying away the plunder of hundreds of desolated Maryland farmhouses. The President was not only intensely anxious but eagerly interested. Noah Brooks, in his "Washington in Lincoln's Time," says of him: "He went out to Fort Stevens during the skirmish ... on July 12, and repeatedly exposed himself in the coolest manner to the fire of the rebel sharpshooters. He had once said to me that he lacked physical courage, although he had a fair share of the moral quality of that virtue; but his calm unconsciousness of danger, while the bullets were flying thick and fast about him, was ample proof that he would not have dropped his musket and run, as he believed he certainly would, at the first sign of physical danger." Those killed in this affair were buried in the little cemetery by the Methodist Church, now called Battle Cemetery. RAND M c N A L L Y W A vS H I N G T O N GUIDE 209 HOURS FOR VISITORS Name and location Open hours AGRICULTURE— DEPARTMENT OF 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mall, between 12th & 14th Sts. Reached by Washington Ry. & Electric Co.'s cars, or by walking from Pennsylvania Ave. & 13th St. ARLINGTON— NATIONAL CEMETERY Sunrise to sunset, in- Heights, west of Potomac. eluding Sundays and holidays. Reached by way of Georgetown, Aqueduct Bridge and electric cars to Fort Meyer and the Northern Gate; or by electric cars from Pennsylvania Ave. & 12th St., via Long Bridge. Public carriages make frequent trips through the cemetery, fare 25 cents. ARMY MEDICAL MUSEUM 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. S. E. corner Smithsonian Grounds. 7th & B Sts., S. W. Reached by 7th St. cars. NEW ARMY WAR COLLEGE AND ARSENAL— WASHINGTON BARRACKS All day. Foot 4' 2 St., S. W. BOTANICAL GARDEN 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Pcnn. Ave., ist to 3d Sts. Reached by all Pennsylvania Ave. cars. CAPITOL 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Capitol Hill. daily except Sundc^y Reached on the south and west sides by the Pennsylvania Ave. cars, and on the north and east sides by the F St. lines. A flag flies over each house while it is in session, and sessions at night are indicated by lights upon the dome. CITY HALL 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Judiciary square. CORCORAN GALLERY OF ART New York Ave. & 17th St. The Gallery is open every day (4th of July and Christmas day excepted) from 9.30 a.m. to 4 p.m. from October ist to May 1st and from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. May ist to October ist. On other public holidays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and on Sundays except in midsummer, from 1.30 to 5 p.m., when the admission is free. Mondays (open 12 to 4 p.m.), Wednesdays and Fridays, admittance 25 cents; other days free. Catalogues for sale. Reached by Pennsylvania Ave. cars to 17th St. ENGRAVING AND PRINTING— BUREAU OF 9 to 11.4s a.m. and Mall, 14th & B Sts.. S. W. 12.30 to 2.30 p.m. Reached by Washington Ry. & Electric Co.'s cars. Visitors allowed only in parties conducted by an attendant. FISH COMMISSION 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Armory Bldg., 6th & B Sts., S. W. FORT MEYER All day. Arlington hills, west of the Potomac. Reached by electric cars and stages from west end of Aqueduct bridge. INTERIOR— DEPARTMENT OF 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. "Patent Office," 7th & F Sts. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 9 a.m. to 10 p.m East of the Capitol. Reached by Pennsylvania Ave. & F St. lines of cars. The building is brilliantly illumi- nated in the evening, which is a favorable time in which to see the interior decorations. LIBRARY, FREE PUBLIC 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mt. Vernon Place, 8th & K Sts. LINCOLN MUSEUM All day. 516 loth St. MARINE BARRACKS All day. 8th St., bet. G & I Sts., S. E. 210 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE Name and Location Open hours MOUNT VERNON 1 1 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sixteen miles down the Potomac. except Sunday. Reached by hourly trains of the Washington, Alexandria & Mt. Vernon Electric Ry. from Pennsylvania Ave. & 12th St., N. W., and morning and afternoon by steamer "Charles Macalester" from 7th St. wharf; by electric railway, round trip, 75 cents, including admission to grounds. U. S. NATIONAL MUSEUM 9.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Mall, opposite loth St. Sundays, 1.30 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. NAVY YARD All day. Foot 8th St., S. E. OBSERVATORY, NAVAL 7 to 9 Thursday North of Georgetown. evenings only. Cards of admission required. Reached by Washington Ry. & Electric Co. and Rockville electric lines from Georgetown. PAN AMERICAN (UNION) 9.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.. 17th & B Sts. except Sat. & Sun. PATENT OFFICE 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. 7th & F Sts. PENSION OFFICE 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. 4th & F Sts. Reached by F St. & G St. cars of Washington Ry. & Electric Co. PRINTING OFFICE, GOVERNMENT Visitors in parties N. Capitol & G Sts. conducted through the building at ID a.m. and 2 p.m. Reached by H St. cars from 15th & G Sts. SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Mall, opposite loth St. Reached by 7th St. line of cars. SOLDIERS' HOME All day including Near 7th St. extended. holidays. Reached by 7th St. & Brightwood cars. STATE— DEPARTMENT OF 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. State, War and Xavy Building TREASURY, THE U. S. 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Penn. Ave. & 15th St. Visitors are shown through the building from 10 a.m., to 12 noon, in parties of twelve by attendants who explain everything shown; all visitors assemble at the door of the Treasu- rer's oi^ce, in the northeast corner of the main floor and register their names. WAR— DEPARTMENT OF 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. State, War and Xavy Building. WASHINGTON MONUMENT 9.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m Mall, west of i4lh St. Sundays 12.30 to 4.30 p.m. The elevator runs (free) to the top of the monument every half hour from 0.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.; but no one will be taken up in the last trip (4.30), if 30 persons (the capacity of the elevator), are already there. WHITE HOUSE East Room open Executive Grounds. daily, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. No general public receptions arc held by the President, but visitors having business with the President will be admitted to the Executive Offices from i 2 to i o'clock daily, excepting on Cabinet days, so far as public business will permit. ZOOLOGICAL PARK, NATIONAL All day. Adam's Mill K.mcI. .\. W. Reached by 7th or 14th St. cars and transfer to U St. line, thence to Chevy Chase cars or by Chevy Chase cars direct from the Treasury. RAND U c N A L L Y W A S H I N G T O N GUIDE 211 INDEX PAGE Academies 129 Alexandria 39 American Progress, Group 150 Anacostia 20, 206 Anacostia River 41 Analostan Island. . .53, 63 Apotheosis of Washington, Capitol. . 156 Area 11 Arlington National Cemetery 55 Army Medical Museum 183 Arriving at Washington 14 Art Galleries 77 Astrophysical Observatory 118 Bache, A. D., Grave of 202 Baggage Incoming 14 Baggage Outgoing 15 Barry, Commodore John, Statue of . 66 Bartholdi Fountain 29 Barye Bronzes 115 Bastile, Key of 47 Bastile, Model of 49 Battle Cemetery 208 Berwyn 19, 2 1 Big Hunting Creek 40 Bivouac of the Dead 56 Bladensburg 21, 205 Blaine House 36 Botanical Garden 29 Braddock Gen'l, once the home of. .33, 39 Brick Capitol 63 Brightwood 20, 207 Bronze Door, Library of Congress... 83 Bronze Door, Rotunda 151 Bronze Door, Senate 172 Brown, Gen'l Jacob, Grave of 202 Brumidi, Constantino 157 Bull Run Battlefield 204 Bulwer House 34 Bureau of American Ethnology 118 Bureau of Census 198 Bureau of Education 196 Bureau of Engraving and Printing. . 192 Bureau of Fisheries 198 Bureau of Immigration 197 Bureau of Labor Statistics 107 Bureau of Mines 196 Bureau of Naturalization 197 Butt-Millet Memorial Fountain 66 Cabin John Bridge 206 Cabin Run 18 Camp Alger 204 Capitol 14s Capitol Prison 63 Carriages 15 Catholic University 127 Catlin, Geo. Collection 119 Caution to Travelers 14 Cemeteries 64 Center Market 30 Chain Bridge 17 Chase, Chief Justice, Grave of 65 Chesapeake and Ohio Canal 206 Chesapeake Beach 19 Chevy Chase 207 Chevy Chase Lake 16 Chief of Staff, Department of War .. 182 Children's Bureau 197 Christ Church 201 PAGE Christ Church, Alexandria 36 Christ Church Cemetery 201 Circles 66 Cleveland Park 16 Clinton, 'Vice President George, Grave of 202 Clubs 130 Coast and Geodetic Survey 199 College Park 19 Colleges 129 Columbus Memorial 66 Columbus, Statue of, Capitol Steps . 151 Conduit Road 18 Confederate Monument, Alexandria . 39 Congress Heights 20, 207 Congressional Cemetery 65 Connecticut Avenue Bridge 54 Continental Memorial Hall 64 Copyright Office 80, 1 1 1 Corcoran Gallery of Art 1 1 1 Corcoran House 34 Corcoran Mausoleum 65 Cunningham, Miss Ann Pamels 43 Custis, Daniel Parke 58 Custis (Nelly) Eleanor 58 Custis, George Washington Parke... 59 Custis, John 58 Custis, John Parke 58 Daguerre, Louis Jacques Mande, Statue of 66 Dandridge, Martha 58 Decatur House 35 D 'Estaing, Statue of, Lafayette Memorial 70 De Grasse, Statue of, Lafayette Memorial 70 Department of Agriculture 196 Department of Commerce 198 Department of Interior 195 Department of Justice 193 Department of Labor 197 Department of State 179 Department of Treasury 186 Department of Navy 183 Department of War 180 Diplomatic Corps 145 Discovery of America, Group 151 District Commissioners 13 Douglas, Frederick 67 Duelling Ground 205 Dupont, Admiral Samuel P., Statue of 66 Dupont Circle 34, 66 Duportrail, Statue of, Lafayette Memorial 70 Educational 116 Emancipation, Group 67 Embassies to the United States 132 Episcopal Theological Seminary 40 Environs 203 Evans, William T. Collection 119 Everett House 38 Executive Departments 178 Executive Mansion 133 Fairfax Court House 204 Falls Church, Virginia 203 Farragut Square 67 Farragut, Statue of 67 Federal Insane Asylum 207 Fire Department 13 212 RAND McNALLY WASHINGTON GUIDE INDEX, Cont'd PAGE Fish Commission 199 Fish Commission Hatchery 42 Fitzhugh, Mary Lee 56 Floor Plans, Corcoran Gallery of Art 112 Floor Plan, Gallery of Capitol. ..... 147 Floor Plans, Library of Congress. ... 78 Floor Plan, Principal Floor of Capitol 146 Floor Plan, U. S. National Museum .. 121 Force, Peter, Monument 06 Ford's Theater 30 Forest Glen 20 Fort Foote 40 Fort Hunt 40, 42 Fort Lyon 40 Fort Meyer 62 Fort Runyon 39 Fort Stanton 207 Fort Stevens 207 Fort Washington 40, 4 1 Foundry Church 202 Fountain, Library of Congress 82 Franciscan Monastery 128 Franklin Park 66 Franklin, Plassman's Statue of 30 Franzoni Clock, Capitol 159 Frederick the Great, Statue of 6S Freedom, Statue 1 49 Freer, Charles L. Collection 119 Garfield 207 Garfield Hospital 20 Garfield, statu? of 28,178 G. A. R. Hall 33 General Land Office 195 Genius of America, Group ... 150 Geological Survey 195 Georgetown College 126 Georgetown (West Washington) .... 206 George Washington University 128 Gerry, Elbridge, Grave of 202 Giesboro Point 41 Glen Echo 19 Good Hope 207 Government Hospital for the Insane. 20, 41 Government Printing Office I9() Grand Army Memorial 6H Great Falls of the Potomac 18 Greek Slave, Statue 115 Greene Maj. Gen'l Nathanael, Statue of 68 Gross, Di. Samuel D., Statue of. ... 68 Guide Map of Washington 8, (> Gunston 41 Hahnemann, Dr. Samuel Christian Frcdcrich, Statue of 68 Hall of Representatives 149, 164 Hamilton, Alexander, Statue of 69 Hancock, Maj. Gen'l Winfield S., Statue of 29 Health Department 13 Henry, Prof. Joseph, Grave of 65 Henry, Prof. Joseph, Statue of.. . . 69 Holy Cross College 128 Hotels 2,s Houdon, Jean Antoine 160 Hours for Visitors 21X) House (Jffice Building i 49 House Lobby 167 House Reading Room, Library of Congress 88 Howard University 127 Hyattsville 19 Inauguration of Presidents 151 P.\GE International Catalogue of Scientific Literature 118 International Exchange Service 118 Interstate Commerce Commission . . . 200 Iowa Circle 71 Jackson, Andrew, Statue of 69 Johnston, Harriet Lane, Collection. 119 Jones, John Paul, Statue of 69 Jones Point 40 Kenilworth 19 Key of Bastile 47 Key Mansion 64 Key to Guide Map of Washington . . 6,7 Kosciuszko, Gen'l Tadeusz, Statue of 70 Lafayette, Marquis, Statue of 70 Lafayette Memorial 70 Lafayette Square 70 Lanier Place 63 Laurel 19 Lear, Col. Tobias, Grave of 202 Lear, Col. Tobias, House of 40 Lee, G. W. Custis 60 Lee, Robert E 60 Legations to the United States 132 Lewis. Lawrence 47, 59 Libraries 77 Library of Congress 77 Life Saving Service 191 Lincoln Heights 206 Lincoln Memorial Collection 31 Lincoln Monument 71 Lincoln Square .'. 67 Little Lord Fontleroy House 36 Little Falls of the Potomac 18 Local Government 13 Logan, Gen'l John A., Grave of . . . . 61 Logan, Gen'l John A., Statue of . . . . 71 Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, Statue of -I Long Tom 185 Louise Home for Aged Women 36 Luther, Martin, Statue of 72 McClellan, Gen'l Geo. B., Statue of 72 McPherson, Maj. Gen'l James B., Statue of 73 McPherson Square 73 Macomb, Alexander, Grave of 202 Madison House 3S Manasses 204 Marine Band 186 Marine Barracks 185 Marist College 128 Marsh, Geo. P., Collection 119 Marshall, Chief Justice John, Statue of 72 Maryland Agricultural College, ..... 19 Masonic Lodge Room, Alexandria... 39 Mt. Pleasant 19 Mt. Ranicr 19 Mt. X'crnon 39. 42 Mt. Vernon Ladies' Association 43 Municipal Building 13 Munson's Hill 204 National Gallery of Art 119 National Museum 118 National Training School 21 Naval (Peace) Monument 28,178 Naval Observatory 186 Naval Radio Station 55 Navy Yard 184 Oak Hill Cemetery 64 Octagon House 37 RAND M c xN A L L Y WASHINGTON GUIDE 213 INDEX, Cont'd PAGE Official Etiquette at the Capital. . . . 139 Office, Indian Affairs 196 Old Episcopal Theological Seminary 40 Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Collection 31 Pan-American Union 200 Parks 66 Patent Office 195 Payne, John Howard, Monument .... 64 Peacfi (Naval) Monument 28, 178 Peace of God, Statue 65 Pension Bureau 195 Pike, Gen'l Albert, Statue of 73 Pinckney, William, Statue of 65 Places of Amusement 22 Places of Interest 27 Police Department 13 Population 11 Post Office Department 32, 193 Post Office, District 26 Potomac Park 69 Potomac River 41 Potworth 207 President's Room, Capitol 174 Private Schools 129 Prominent Cliurches 201 Public Library V' Public Restaurants, Capitol 168, 169 Public Restaurant, Library of Congress iii Pulaski, Brig-Gen 1 Casimir, Statue of 32 Railroads 25 Rawlin's, Maj. -Gen'l John A., Statue of . . . . ., 30 Reclamation Service 196 Rittenhouse Home 37 Rescue, The, Group, Capitol Steps .. 151 Riverdale 19 Rochambeau, Comte De, Statues of . 70, 73 Rock Creek 207 Rock Creek Church 202 Rock Creek Churchyard 65 Rock Crei-k Park 207 Rogers, Commodore, site of home of 37 Rosslyn 55 Rotunda, Capitol 149, 152 Rush, or Benjamin, Statue of 73 St. Asaph 39 St. John's Church 71, 202 St. Thomas College 128 School of Law 127 School of Medicine 127 Scott, Charlotte 67 Scott Circle 69 Scott, Maj.-Gen'l WinfieldS., Statues of 61, 74 Scottish Rite Temple 38 Secret Service 192 Senate Chamber 149, 170 Senate Office Building 149 Senate Reading Room, Library of Congress 88 Senate Reception Room, Capitol .. . 173 Shepherd, Alex R., Statue of 74 Sheridan Circle 74 Sheridan, Philip H., Statue of 74 Sherman, Gen'l Wm. T., Statue of. . 33 Sight Seeing 25 PAGE Silver Springs 207 Smithsonian Building 126 Smithsonian (older) Building 122 Smithsonian Institution 116 Smithsonian Institution (new) Building 119 Societies 130 Soldiers' Home 61 Soldiers' Home Cemetery 61 Somerset 21 Stanton, Secretary, Grave of 65 Stanton Square 68 Statuary Hall, Capitol 159 Statues 66 Steamship Lines' Piers 21 Stephenson, Benjamin Franklin 68 Street Cars 15 Street Plan 12 Streets 11 Superintendent, State, War, and Navy Building 186 Supreme Court Chamber 176 Takoma Park 20, 207 Taxicabs 15 Tayloe Collection, Corcoran Gallery of Art 115 Tayloe House 37 Telegraph Headquarters 26 Tennalytown 21 Thomas Circle 75 Thomas, Gen'l Geo. H., Statue of . . 75 Time Ball 26 Treasurer of United States 192 Twining 206 Union Station 22 Van Ness Homestead 55 Van Ness Mau.soleum 65 Vice President's Room, Capitol 173 Von Steuben, Baron, Statue of 75 Wallace, Gen'l Lew 208 Walter Reed Army Hospital 20 War College 41 Washington and Vicinity (map) s Washington Barracks 41 Washington, Bushrod 43 Washington, Bust of, by Houdon . . . 50 Washington Circle 76 Washington, John 42 Washington, John Augustin 43 Washington, Martha 43, 59 Washington, Martha, Tomb of 44 Washington Monument 51 Washington, Statues of 76 Washington, Tomb of 44 Washington 's Will 20; Weather Bureau iy6 Webster, Daniel, Statue of 76 West'Washington (Georgetown) .... 206 West William, Grave of 202 White House 133 White Lot 66 Wirt House 34 Witherspoon, John, Statue of 76 Woodley 55 Zoological Park 62, 118 "Finest Coastwise Trips in the World" MERCHANTS AND MINERS TRANS. CO. 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